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JESSE WIEEIAMS, 
 
 ORIGINATOR OF THE AMERICAN CHEESE FACTORY SYSTEM. 
 
WILLAED'S 
 
 PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY: 
 
 A COMPLETE TEEATISE ON 
 
 DAIRY FARMS AI^D FARMING,— DAIRY STOCK AND STOCK 
 FEEDING,— MILK, ITS MANAGEMENT AND MANUFACTURE 
 INTO BUTTER AND CHEESE,— HISTORY AND MODE 
 OF ORGANIZATION OF BUTTER AND CHEESE 
 FACTORIES,— DAIRY UTENSILS, Etc., Etc. 
 
 X. A. ViLLAED, A. M., "" o^- 
 
 Editor of the Dairy Department of " Moore's Bural New- Yorker" and Lecturer at the Maine 
 State Agricultural College, Cornell University, Etc., Etc. 
 
 FULLY AND HANDSOMELY ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 D. D. T. MOOEE, PTJBLISHEE, 
 
 EUEAL NEW-YOEKEE OmOE. 
 
 1872. 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by 
 
 D. D. T. MOORE, 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 FBESS OF 
 
 „ ~~~~ '- ' WTNKOOP & HALLENBECK, 
 
 Smith & McDougal, Electrotypers. 
 
 113 Fulton Steeet. 
 
 HEW TOBK. . 
 
INDEX TO PARTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Pakt I.— INTRODUCTOEY 7 
 
 II.— DAIRY FARMS AKD FIXTURES 25 
 
 III.— MANAGEMENT OP GRASS LANDS 51 
 
 IV.— STOCK— SELECTION, CARE AND MANAGEMENT OP FOR 
 
 THE DAIRY 106 
 
 v.- MILK 153 
 
 VI.— ASSOCIATED DAIRYING — ITS RISE AND PROGRESS 213 
 
 VII.— ENGLISH DAIRY PRACTICE 287 
 
 VIII.— COMPOSITION OP CHEESE 297 
 
 IX.— VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS 333 
 
 X.— PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKING 352 
 
 XL— CHEESE MANUFACTURE 426 
 
 XIL— BUTTER MANUFACTURE 479 
 
 XIII.— APPENDIX ....516 
 
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 PAGE. 
 Agitator, Austin's 454 
 
 — Rake 467 
 
 AlderneyBull 116 
 
 — Cow 117 
 
 Automatic Heater and Cheese Vat 386 
 
 A yrshire Bull 114 
 
 — Cow 115 
 
 Bain, Large Stock, Elevation of 400 
 
 — Engine room 401 
 
 — Second floor 401 
 
 — Sectional view of frame 401 
 
 — Meadow Brook, Elevation S4 
 
 — Lower floor 35 
 
 — Upper floor 35 
 
 — Model Farm 517 
 
 — Basement 518 
 
 — End view of frame-work 519 
 
 Bull, Alderney 116 
 
 — Ayrshire 114 
 
 — Devon 112 
 
 — Holstein 118 
 
 — Short-Horn 110 
 
 Butter Bowl and Ladle 250 
 
 — Factory, Ground plan of Orange County Milk 
 
 Association 251 
 
 — Rockville 252 
 
 — — Weeks', Elevation 492 
 
 — Ground plan of .' 493 
 
 Butter Packages, Orange County 254 
 
 — Pail, Return 254 
 
 — — Westcott's 513 
 
 — Worker, Corbin's 512 
 
 — — Orange County 253 
 
 — — Bound lever 512 
 
 — Workers with fluted rollers 511 
 
 — — Cortland County 510 
 
 Can, Factory weigliing 399 
 
 Castor for Curd Sink 410 
 
 Cheese Hoop. English, Expanding 293 
 
 — Mammoth 3-0 
 
 — Press, Factory 401 
 
 — — Frazer's Gang 413 
 
 — — Oysten's Herkimer County 400 
 
 Churn, Orange County 249 
 
 — Tornado 507 
 
 Churning by water power 504 
 
 Conductor Head 399 
 
 Cow, Alderney 117 
 
 — Ayrshire 115 
 
 — Devon 113 
 
 — Escutcheon of bad 125 
 
 — first-rate 12! 
 
 — . mediocre 124 
 
 — Holstein 118 
 
 — Native 109 
 
 — Short-Horn Ill 
 
 Cream Gauge 159 
 
 — Strainer, Baker's Excelsior 4b9 
 
 Creamery, Ground Plan of Walkill 248 
 
 Circulating Coil, Heater and Cheese Vat, Millar's 391 
 Curd Mill 408 
 
 — — Ralph's American 409 
 
 — Scoop 410 
 
 Dairy Barn, Meadow Brook Farm 34 
 
 — Lower floor 35 
 
 — Upper floor 35 
 
 — Dipper 409 
 
 — House, Cheese 44 
 
 — Basement 45 
 
 — Second floor 45 
 
 — Knives 40') 
 
 Dashers, Churn 249 
 
 Dog Power for Churning 508 
 
 — Emery's 508 
 
 — Old style 507 
 
 Elmere Butter Package.... 513 
 
 Engine Boom for Barn 41 
 
 Factory, Ground Plan of Truxton 227 
 
 — Herkimer, End Elevation Manufacturing De- 
 
 partment 228 
 
 — — Front Elevation 228 
 
 — — Ground Plan of 229 
 
 — Ingersoll 378 
 
 — — Ground Plan of 379 
 
 — Milk Cans 396 
 
 — Newville, Ground Plan 3T0 
 
 — — Second Story 371 
 
 — —Third Story 371 
 
 — Sanborn S'iQ 
 
 Fill er. Curd 4 
 
 Firkin 254 
 
 — Half 254 
 
 Frame for Milk Cooler Water Tank 376 
 
 Pumlgator, Hutchins', for Destroying Lice on 
 
 Cattle 152 
 
 Gate, Weigh-Can 399 
 
 Gauge, Cream 159 
 
 Glass, Cream 159 
 
 Grass, June 243 
 
 — Meadow Fescue 244 
 
 — Orchard 244 
 
 — Poa Compressa 245 
 
 — Red Top 243 
 
 — Sweet-scented Vernal 245 
 
 Hand Power for Churning— Horizontal Shaft 506 
 
 Handle, Can Cover 398 
 
 — Side 393 
 
 Handles, Milk Can 398 
 
 Heater 394 
 
 — and Vat 392 
 
 — for Cooking Feed for Stock 395 
 
 Holstein Bull in 
 
 — Cow 118 
 
 Hoops, Cheese Press 404 
 
 — and Wooden Press Rings i 405 
 
 Horse Power for Churning, Richardson's 609 
 
 Jar, Rennet 360 
 
 Knives, Dairy 406 
 
 Lactometer 156 
 
 JNlacliine, Cheese Bandaging 421 
 
 Meadow Fescue 244 
 
 Milk Can, Factory 396 
 
 — —Iron-Clad 397 
 
 — Cooler, Burnap's 375 
 
 — — Bussey's Improved 374 
 
 — — Hawley's 375 
 
 — — Northrop's .■ ,376 
 
 — Coolers 374 
 
 — Factory, Ground Plan of Provost's Condensed 202 
 
 Mop, Rubber 4:0 
 
 Native Cow 109 
 
 New Boiler and Engine ,^^6 
 
 Oneida Vat and Heater 389 
 
 — — Cross Section of 390 
 
 Pail, Flat-sided 410 
 
 — for Setting Milk 494 
 
 — — — the Milk, and Cream Dipper 249 
 
 — Philadelphia Butter 491 
 
 Pan, Jennings' Milk 486 
 
 — Jewett'sMilk 487 
 
 Pans, Milk, Diagram of 486 
 
 Per Cent. Glass 169 
 
 Pipes, Heating 393 
 
 Poa Compressa 245 
 
 Position of Heater and Vats 393 
 
 Plaster Sower, Seymour's 68 
 
 Press, English Ceeese 291 
 
 — Oyston's Herkimer County 400 
 
 Presses, Factory 401 
 
 Puncture, Point for in Hoven 152 
 
 Rectangular Cheese Curb and Press 414 
 
 Red Top 243 
 
 Rennet Jar 3(i0 
 
 Return Butter Pail 254 
 
 Rubber Ring 405 
 
 Sanborn Factory, Basement 370 
 
 — — Ground Plan 370 
 
 Scales ; 411 
 
 — Jones' Stock 412 
 
 Scoop, Curd 410 
 
 Screws, Cheese Press 402 
 
 Sectional Steam Generator and Boiler, Clark's.... 383 
 
 Self -Heaters 388 
 
 Short-Horn Bull no 
 
 — —Cow Ill 
 
 Spring-pole Power for Churning 504 
 
 Stock Barn, Large 40 
 
 — — Second Fluor 41 
 
 — — Sectional View of 41 
 
 Stomach, Cow's first 151 
 
 Sweet-scented Vernal Grass 245 
 
 Tester, Milk, Glass Tubes for 422 
 
 Thermometer, Dairy 410 
 
 — Floating 156 
 
 — Nickel Plated 156 
 
 Tin Mil k Pail . Ralph 's 354 
 
 — — Pails, Millar's 353 
 
 Tornado Churn 507 
 
 Trocar 151 
 
 Vat, Oneida Farm 396 
 
 — Ralph's Oneida Factory 389 
 
 Vats and Heater 394 
 
 Vertical Engine and Boiler 384 
 
 Water-Power for Churning 505 
 
 Weigh-Can Gate 399 
 
 Whey Strainer and Siphon 407 
 
JPREF^OE. 
 
 Up to the present time there lias been no Standard Work on Practical Dairy- 
 Husbandry, or upon the improved American methods of manufacturing Butter and 
 Cheese. A book treating of these topics has long been needed, and this work is designed 
 to meet the wants of tliose who are looking for a safe, practical Dairy Manual. 
 
 With more tlian twenty years' experience in Dairy Farming, and an acquaintance 
 from extensive personal observation with the best methods of dairy management in this 
 Country and Europe— accustomed to the practical handling of Milk and the manufacture 
 of its products— in fine, having made a specialty of this branch of industry, the writer 
 ought to be able to discriminate between the practical and merely theoretical in dairy 
 management. 
 
 Dairy Farming in this country is no holiday aflFair. The men who engage in it are, 
 for the most part, seeking useful information— sucli knowledge as may be turned to a 
 good account in their business. In other words, tliey seek to learn how Dairying in its 
 several brandies can best be made to pay. With lliis standpoint in view, no theories 
 have been recommended which cannot stand tlie practical test of usefulness. I am not 
 insensible to the favor with which the results of my experiments and observations have 
 been received, or to the confidence reposed in me by American Dairymen. 1 can only 
 say that I have been earnest for improvement in this branch of industry, and have 
 labored lieartily for tlie advancement of the whole Dairy Interest throughout the whole 
 dairy districts of our country. 
 
 The work here presented is not a compilation— though I have not hesitated to quote 
 from other writers whenever their statements seemed to be useful. In malcing such 
 quotations I have aimed to give proper credit, since nothing seems to me more repre- 
 liensible in a writer than the appropriation of another's labor and brains witliout due 
 acknowledgment. Among the papers to which special attention is called are those of 
 Dr. VoELCKEU on the "Composition of Cheese" and " Ciieese Experiments;" also on 
 "Recent English Dairy Improvements," by Mr. Harding of Marksbury, England. 
 Tliese papers hitherto have not been in an available form for the American reader, and 
 will be found, it is believed, both interesting and valuable. In a few instances I have 
 selected matter from my own pen which has appeared in the Rural New-Yorker, Western 
 Rural, and other publications ; but for the most part the work has been freshly written, 
 and gives the most approved practice in dairying as conducted at the present day. 
 
 I trust it will not be deemed out of place here to say that I feel under deep 
 obligations to the Press for the uniform courtesy extended to my various contributions to 
 Agricultural Literature, througli a long series of years. Profoundly grateful for these 
 favors, I can only hope in the present instance that this volume may be worthy a candid 
 criticism. And that it may prove useful to the class for whom it is intended is the sincere 
 wisli of the Author. X. A. W. 
 
 Little Fal,t,s, Herkimer Co., N. Y., 18T1. 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 THE AMEEICAN DAIET BELT. 
 
 The gteat American dairy belt lies between the fortieth and forty-fifth 
 parallels of latitude. It stretches from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, and 
 possibly to the Pacific. Within its limits are New England, New York, 
 Pennsylvania, the Northern parts of Ohio, Illinois and Indiana, the greater 
 portion of Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, and a part of the 
 Canadas. Of all this belt probably not more than a third of the land is adapted 
 to dairying. The dairy lands are quite irregular in outline, lying not always 
 continuously together, but often detached, and not unfrequently, if repre- 
 sented on the map, would have the appearance of islands. 
 
 THE CHAEACTEEISTICS OF A GOOD DAIBT COUNTRY 
 
 are, high, undulating surfaces ; numerous springs and streams of never 
 failing water ; a soil retentive of moisture ; a sweet and nutritious herbage, 
 that springs up spontaneously and continues to grow with great tenacity ; a 
 rather low average temperature ; frequent showers, rather than periodical 
 drouths, and sufficient covering of the ground in winter to protect grass 
 roots, so that the herbage may be permanent or enduring. 
 
 Doubtless within the limits of the United States, on high table lands, or 
 on the lower slopes of mountainous ranges, there are soils eminently adapted 
 to dairying ; but we have no large and continuous stretch of country, like 
 that to which we have referred, where the business naturally would develop 
 itself into a specialty. 
 
 DAIRY COMPARED WITH OTHER HUSBANDRIES. 
 
 In my opinion, upon this Northern belt of dairy lands, there is no descrip- 
 tion of farming that promises better prospect of remuneration than the dairy. 
 I refer now to farming in the broadest sense of the word, where thousands 
 grow certain products, and compete with each other in the great markets of 
 the world. If one happens to be possessed of land in the immediate vicinity 
 of towns and cities, upon which market gardening may be conducted with 
 facility, that land may without doubt be put to more profit in growing vege- 
 tables than in dairying. Fruit lands, eligibly situated and intelligently man- 
 aged, may also be a source of greater profit. 
 
8 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Limited specialties of this kind, in Avhich only the few comparatively can 
 engage, must not be embraced in the statement. Compared with other great 
 interests of the countiy, such as the production of wheat or corn, and other 
 cereals, the raising and fattening of stock for the shambles, sheep hus- 
 bandry, hop growing, and the like ; each and all are inferior in their re- 
 munerative prospects to the dairy. 
 
 In the first place, the milk producer enters the great markets of the 
 world, with less competition than he who is engaged in almost any other 
 branch of farming. He has a wider range and a more diversified product to 
 dispose of. The milk farmer may be a breeder to some extent of thorough- 
 bred cattle. After the first outlay, (and that may be on a small scale at the 
 commencement,) the expense of raising a thorough-bred cow will be no more 
 than the raising of the meanest scrub of our common stock. Then, if there is 
 any profit in fattening stock for the shambles, animals which fail in milk for 
 the dairy, and are to be " turned," can be employed for this purpose. Both 
 of these specialties are in the line, and connected with the dairy, as is also 
 the fattening of swine on dairy slops. 
 
 Again, the yield of his cows takes three forms of a commercial product, 
 each of which enters into universal consumption, and is regarded both as a 
 luxury and a necessity — Milk, Butter, and Cheese. The last two are highly 
 concentrated forms of food, and less bulky of transport than other articles of 
 food of the same value — for, two hundred pounds of butter, costing eighty 
 dollars, will occujDy no more space in a railroad car than a barrel of flour 
 costing but six dollars. In other words, the eighty dollars' worth of butter 
 can be carried as cheaply to market as the six dollars' worth of flour. 
 
 This alone is an immense advantage, for when the farmer comes to 
 deduct freights on a low-pi-iced, bulky product, together with commission to 
 the middle men for handling, and there will remain often but little profit for 
 the producer. In New York we have studied this question of 
 
 THE DAIRY AND ITS RELATIVE ADVANTAGES, 
 
 for many years. We cannot afford to grow corn, for the West, with its rich 
 prairie and bottom lands, easy of cultivation by machinery, can undersell us. 
 Look at the average price of wheat for a series of years, and consider 
 whether the hard, tenacious soil of New York and New England can produce 
 it at a profit. How is it with wool ? The immense plains of Texas and the 
 West are competing with us, and can always afford to sell for less money 
 than it costs us to produce it. We have no chance to enter European 
 markets with our wool, for Australia and South America stand in the way. 
 
 A GOOD DAIRY FARM, 
 
 is a good Stock Farm, but stock farms are not necessarily good dairy farms. 
 It is doubtful whether the great stock farms of the Southwest will ever be 
 employed largely for dairying. The lands are not so well provided with 
 water, and the climate is too warm to secure the finest flavored goods. Be- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 9 
 
 sides, the stock farmer of the West and Southwest can at present make more 
 money in raising stock than by dairying. With the great raih'oad facilities 
 being developed in these directions, the N'ew York and New England 
 farmer will find it more and more difficult as a specialty to compete with 
 these people in raising fat cattle for the shambles. On the other hand, there 
 has been for the past few years a gradual but constant increase in the 
 demand and price of dairy products. If you take 
 
 THE GOLD PRICES FOE DIFPEEENT KINDS OP FOOD 
 
 in London for a series of years, the statistics present the remarkable fact 
 that dairy products have remained steady, while other products have 
 fluctuated in prices, and at times become very much. depressed. The reason 
 of this is that the whole world is not competing in this class of production. 
 The supply being uniformly within the limits of consumption, 
 
 A GOOD ARTICLE IS ALWAYS NEEDED, 
 
 and prices do not fall so low, comparatively, as for other products. It must 
 be observed, too, that upon dairy lands the milk product, year after year, 
 is pretty uniform as to quantity. Upon natural grazing lands there is no 
 crop so reliable as grass. Grain, fruit, hops, and the like, are liable to 
 numerous accidents that lessen or destroy the yield, but which do not obtain 
 in the grass crop. Hence, the dairyman can* count pretty accurately upon 
 what his farm will yield, if stocked with an average lot of cows. Again, his 
 lands are not so liable to be exhausted as those devoted to grain growing, 
 and with an abundant source of manure at his command should be growing 
 more and more productive from year to year. The great question with 
 dairy farmers has been in regard to 
 
 OVBE-PEODUCTION OF DAIRY GOODS. 
 
 Since the inauguration of the Associated Dairy System, fears have been 
 entertained that the cheese and butter product of the country would be 
 beyond a healthy consumptive demand. Dairy products are so liable to 
 decay that dealers do not care to take the risk of storing and holding in 
 large quantities. They must go into quick consumption, and hence, any 
 considerable surplus, accumulating from year to year, would so depreciate 
 prices that the business could not be carried on with profit. Statistics thus 
 far show that in Europe production does not keep pace with consumption, 
 and this difference is every year growing wider and wider. In the United 
 States the 
 
 HOME CONSUMPTION OP BUTTER AND CHEESE, 
 
 of late years, has more than kept pace with production, notwithstanding the 
 extraordinary development of dairying under the associated system. 
 Previous to the war of the Rebellion we exported butter ; but for some 
 years past the home consumption has taken all our make, and at a price 
 which consumers denounce as extortionate. 
 
10 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The best Normandy butter sells in London to-day at about 150 shillings 
 per cwt., or thirty-two cents gold per pound. Deducting freight and com- 
 missions, and turning the gold into currency, it would net the shipper in the 
 States a price below what the best grades are worth at home. In 1860 
 
 THE PEODUCTION OF BUTTER IN THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES 
 
 was nearly four hundred and sixty millions of pounds. It is, perhaps, to-day 
 over six hundred millions of pounds, and if we were over-producing prices 
 would decline, so that shippers could afford to export. Wherever you go 
 among consumers in towns and cities you hear loud complaints of the diffi- 
 culty of getting good butter, and the monstrous price which they are forced 
 to pay. They talk bitterly against the cheese factories, charging them with 
 the crime of absorbing the butter makers, and thus cutting off production. 
 They forget that the rapid increase of population and the gormandizing 
 habits of our people in the use of butter, are the causes which have led to 
 this condition of things. There are 
 
 NO SUCH BUTTER EATERS 
 
 on the globe as we Americans. Everything that we cook must be swimming 
 in butter. Our Irish domestics, many of whom never ate a pound of butter 
 during their whole lives before .reaching these shores, seem never able to get 
 enough of this unctuous food. The waste of butter among all classes is 
 enormous, and, in an economic point of view, is truly alarming. To those 
 who have traveled in Europe and contrasted the difference in the habits of 
 people there and here in the use of butter, it need be no surprise that our 
 dairies are taxed to their utmost to satisfy the craving demands of our butter 
 eaters. If the habit increases with our constantly increasing population, the 
 prospects of butter dairying cannot be considered at all discouraging. If we 
 take the article of cheese, our people are evidently beginning to follow 
 English tastes in their appreciation of this nutritious article of food. We 
 are exj)orting now but little more cheese, comparatively, than in 1861, 
 perhaps twenty millions of pounds more, and yet our production has in- 
 creased from one hundred and three millions of pounds, in 1860, to two 
 hundred and forty millions of pounds in 1869. ISTotwithstanding the war ol 
 the rebellion, and the consequent poverty of the Southern States, which cut ofi 
 
 THE CHEESE TRADE 
 
 in that direction, the home consumption has gone on increasing from sixty 
 three millions of pounds, in 1860, to one hundred and eighty millions of 
 pounds, in 1869. The average increase of home consumption has been at the 
 rate of thirteen millions of pounds per year. When the Southern States get 
 into a healthy, prosperous condition, with the wonderful development o: 
 railroad facilities, the opening of the Southern Pacific Railroad, the influx of 
 Chinese laborers, and a direct trade with China, it is doubtful whether the 
 dairies in this country can be developed sufficiently to supply the demands.' 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 11 
 
 But there must always be a large dairy interest employed in supplying 
 fresh milk to our cities and manufacturing towns. This is more apparent 
 from year to year, and the real question of the dairy interest to-day should 
 be, to so equalize the supply of 
 
 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE, 
 
 tnat the nighest prices may be reached for eacn. I'he difficulty is not so 
 much the fear that dairying will be overdone, as that the equilibrium will 
 be disturbed, and either one or the other of these products be increased 
 beyond its proper proportion. If a large proportion of the cheese makers 
 were to go to making butter, the butter interest would be overdone and 
 prices decline; and the same would result to the cheese interest from a large 
 change from butter to cheese dairying ; while the milk interest would be 
 greatly injured if a large proportion of dairymen should enter into that 
 branch, either by furnishing condensed milk, or fresh milk, for city con- 
 sumption. When Jesse Williams, the unpretending farmer of Rome, in 
 1850 conceived the idea of 
 
 ASSOCIATED DAIRIES, 
 
 it was forced upon him as a necessary means for accommodating members of 
 his own family. He had not the remotest idea that he had hit upon a great 
 principle — a principle that was of wide application, and which was destined, 
 in all coming time, to be the means of lifting heavy burthens from the arms 
 of toil. It is estimated there are now more than a thousand factories in the 
 State of New York alone, and they are extending rapidly in other States. 
 They have been carried to the Canadas and across the Atlantic ; and 
 wherever cheese-making shall be known in after times, it will be inseparably 
 connected with the name of Jessie Williams. But aside from the 
 burthens of toil and the drudgery from which this system operates to relieve 
 our farmers, it has developed another great economic principle, 
 
 THE means of producing FOOD CHEAPLY, 
 
 a principle which the Creator, in His infinite wisdom it seems, is now im- 
 pressing upon the minds of people, by the establishment and wide-spread 
 dissemination of this system. The question of food in all densely populated 
 communities is one that underlies all others. No nation can rise to the 
 highest civilization and power without her people are supplied with an 
 abundance of 
 
 CHEAP AND NUTRITIOUS FOOD. 
 
 Where food is scarce, or is wanting in nutrition, there you will find 
 poverty, squalid wretchedness, demoralization and crime — elements of weak- 
 ness, opposed to progress and civilization. Food nourishes not only the 
 body but the brain, and the cheapness and abundance of good food has had 
 much to do in the rapid progress and active development of mind among the 
 American jseople. But our population is increasing with wonderful rapidity, 
 
12 Practical Bairy Husbandry. 
 
 and already the supply of meats in the Atlantic States is becoming compara- 
 tively scarce. They are to-day at such a price that poor people have difficulty 
 in obtaining them. As our population increases there will be a still further 
 scarcity of meats for the supply of our peoj^le. Some other form of animal 
 food must be substituted in part, at least, for beef, and the question is be- 
 coming every year more and more urgent, as to how it can be produced 
 cheaply. And, in my opinion, we must look to the dairy as the chief means 
 of solving this difficulty. I can illustrate this more satisfactorily, perhaps, by 
 drawing a comparison between 
 
 THE RELATIVE COST OF PKODUCIISTG BEEP AND CHEESE. 
 
 A steer which will weigh one thousand five hundred pounds at four years 
 must be a good animal, and will yield say one thousand pounds of meat. 
 Three steers at four years, on the above assumption, would produce three 
 thousands pounds of beef. Now, a good cow will yield from five hundred to 
 six hundred pounds of cheese per year ; if we take her product for twelve 
 years at four hundred and fifty pounds per year, deducting the first two 
 years in which, as a heifer, she yields nothing, we have four thousand five 
 hundred pounds of good, wholesome animal food. In other words, three 
 steers at four years old, representing twelve years' growth for beef, amounts 
 to three thousand pounds, while one cow, twelve years for cheese, four 
 thousand five hundred pounds. But a pound of cheese, equal in nutrition 
 to two pounds of beef, would make the difference still greater, giving 
 for the dairy nine thousand pounds of food on the one hand, against three 
 thousand pounds of meat on the other. Then there is cost of cooking, and 
 the bone to be charged against the beef, which, as will be seen, adds further 
 to the expense of that kind of food. 
 
 THE ECON^OMICAL USE OP POOD 
 
 I 
 
 is not well understood by the majority of people, and perhaps there is no food 
 in general use the nutritive value of which is more under-estimated than that of 
 milk. Indeed, many people regard it more as a luxury than as afibrding any 
 substantial nourishment like that obtained from meats or vegetables. Milk 
 is often used sparingly, under the impression that it must always be an ex- 
 pensive article of food, when in fact it is generally cheaper than any meats 
 that can be had in the market ; and we believe if its relative nutritive 
 value, as compared with beef, was more generally understood, it would be J 
 more largely consumed, as a matter of economy. 
 
 Good beef contains from fifty to sixty per cent, of water, and milk about 
 eighty-seven per cent. On an average, then, three pounds and a half of milk, i 
 or a little more than three pints by measure, are equal in nutrition to a * 
 pound of beef If the beef is Avorth twenty cents per pound, the milk, at ten 
 cents per quart, would be the cheaper food of the two. Dr. Bellows gives 
 the following analysis of several articles of food, in their natural state, from 
 which 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 13 
 
 THE RELATIVE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF MILK 
 
 may be readily compared. We place them in a table, as more convenient for 
 reference and comparison : 
 
 
 Nitrates. 
 
 CARBONATES. 
 
 Phosphates. 
 
 Wateu. 
 
 Milk of Cow 
 
 5.0 
 15.0 
 11.0 
 12.5 
 10.0 
 14 
 17 
 15K 
 
 8.0 
 30.0 
 35.0 
 40.0 
 50.0 
 very little. 
 very little, 
 uone. 
 
 1.0 
 5.0 
 3.5 
 3.5 
 1.5 
 5 to 6 
 5 to 6 
 4M 
 
 86 
 
 Beef 
 
 50 
 
 Lamb 
 
 50 5 
 
 Mutton 
 
 44 
 
 Pork 
 
 38 5 
 
 Codfish...... 
 
 79 
 
 Trout 
 
 75 
 
 White of eggs 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 Of the nitrates, or flesh-forming elements, the beef contains just three 
 times that of the milk, while the carbonates, or respiratory and fat-producing 
 elements in the beef, are three and three-fourth times richer than the milk. 
 The solid constituents of the two, in a hundred parts, would be in milk 
 fourteen, and in beef fifty, or very nearly as one to three and one-half Con- 
 sequently, if both be represented in pounds, it would take three and one-half 
 pounds of milk to give the same amount of nutrition that is contained in one 
 pound of beef. In fish and eggs the difference would not be so great. Now 
 a quart of milk will weigh about thirty-six ounces, consequently the three 
 pints of milk by measure will weigh three pounds six ounces, representing 
 very nearly the equivalent in nutrition for a pound of beef. As there is 
 always more or less waste in beef, even after it is separated from the bone, 
 on account of muscle, tendons, cartilage and the like, which cannot be con- 
 sumed, the three pints of milk may be considered to rej)resent a fair equiva- 
 lent in nutrition for a pound of beef, exclusive of bone. On this assumption, 
 if a pound of beef, exclusive of bone, is worth twenty cents, milk should be 
 counted at a little over thirteen cents per quart, the exact figures being thir- 
 teen and one-third cents. But if we reckon the loss from bone which the 
 consumer takes with the meat, it will be seen the cost is considerably more, 
 which would by so much farther enhance the value of the milk. When milk 
 is selling at six cents per quart, beef, exclusive of bone, at nine cents per 
 pound would be the equivalent. It will be seen by carefully comparing the 
 analysis of milk and meats, and making the proper deductions on the latter 
 on account of waste, of bones, etc., that there is less difference between the 
 economical value of milk and beefsteak, or fish and eggs, than is commonly 
 supposed. Milk contains all the elements of nutrition, and is more whole- 
 some than meats like pork and veal, which are justly regarded with suspicion. 
 It should be more largely used in hot weather than it is, and especially in 
 the diet of children, as it supplies material for building up the bones and 
 muscles, which superfine flour, and butter and sugar, do not. It may not be 
 advisable to substitute milk wholly for meat in any system of diet. Still by 
 using smaller quantities of meat with which to make up the requisite propor- 
 tion of animal food, health would doubtless be greatly promoted, and at 
 
14 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 much less expense, than where meat is exclusively used. The market value 
 of milk is generally very much below its nutritive equivalent m beef; 
 and those who are looking to economy in foods will do well to give this 
 question attention. 
 
 MTLK A'S A FOOD. 
 
 Professor Lton Playfair, in speaking of milk as a food, says :— " We 
 see how carefully nature has provided for the growth of the infant. In the 
 casein there is abundance of structural food for the building up of organs; 
 in the highly combustible fat or butter, and in the less carbonaceous sugars 
 we have a full supply of heat givers ; while in the mineral substances, bone 
 earth for the building up of the young skeleton, besides common salt, potash 
 salts, iron, silica, and every mineral ingredient that we find m the body. It 
 may be interesting to uiquire with regard to the typical food, what proportion 
 the structural materials bear to the respiratory or heat-giving substances. 
 For this purpose, we must convert both the butter and sugar into a common 
 value, and calculate them as if they were starch, which is the most common 
 heat-c^iving body in different kinds of food. Estimated m this way, the 
 quantity of heat-givers is three times greater than that of fiesh-formers. But 
 the nutrition of the young animal is in many respects different from that of 
 the adult In the case of the latter it is only necessary to supply the daily 
 waste of the tissues ; in the former it is also requisite to furnish materials for 
 the growing bodv, and also abundant fuel to maintain the higher temperature: 
 of the infant With this difference kept in view, all our efforts m diet ap- 
 pear to aim at imitating the typical food, milk, by adjusting a proper balance 
 between the flesh-formers, heat-givers, and mineral bodies. Thus with ai 
 flesh-forming aliment like beef or mutton, we take a rich heat-givmg one 
 like potatoes or rice. To fat bacon, abounding already in l^eat-givers, we 
 add beans, which compensate for its poverty in flesh-formers. With fowls ^ 
 poor in fat, we consume ham, richin this combustible. Our appetites and 
 tastes become the regulators of food, and adjust the relative proportions of 
 its several ingredients; and until the appetite becomes depraved by mdul. 
 gence or disease, it is a safe guide in the selection of aliments." 
 
 MUSCLB-MAKIHTG FOOD. 
 
 The importance of using food containing a due proportion of muscle 
 making elements, or albuminoids, has been demonstrated in repeated experi 
 ments, when loss of vigor and health has followed a continual use of food 
 lacking in these elements. The experiments made in five prisons m Scotland 
 bear upon this point. They were made to ascertain the smallest amount of 
 food and the proportion of nitrates and carbonates, that would keep the 
 prisoner up to his weight while doing nothing, when it was found that by 
 reducing the proportion of nitrates in the food from four ounces to two and 
 three-quarter ounces daily the prisoners lost weight rapidly. Dr. Bellows 
 in commenting upon these experiments, which he gives m detail, says : 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 15 
 
 "It is a remarkable fact which shows the importance of connecting science 
 with practice, that the deterioration in the quality of the diet in Dundee 
 prison consisted in substituting molasses for milk, which had been previously 
 used with oatmeal porridge and oatmeal cakes, molasses being entirely 
 destitute of muscle-making material, while milk contains a full proportion of 
 these important principles. This one experiment and its results are worthy 
 of study by every mother and every housekeeper in the land. If any class of 
 persons would suffer less than others from the use of too much carbonaceous 
 and too little nitrogenous food, it would be that class who are idle ; and yet 
 the one hundred prisoners of Dundee, with an ounce more of the fat and 
 heat-making principle than those of Edinburgh, lost two hundred and seven- 
 teen and one-half pounds, while the same number in Edinburgh lost only 
 twenty-seven pounds; the difference in their diet being, as stated in the 
 report, that the prisoners of Edinburgh had milk with their porridge and 
 cakes, while those of Dundee had molasses instead." 
 
 And he remarks further : — " If the same experiment had been tried on 
 men in active life, or on -children who are never still except when asleep, the 
 result would have been more remarkable, in j^roportion to the greater waste 
 of muscle in those who are active, and the greater demand for nitrogenous 
 food ; and yet how few mothers stop to consider or take pains to know, 
 whether gingerbread made of fine flour, which has but a trace of food for 
 muscle or brain, and sugar or molasses, and perhaps butter, which have none, 
 or cakes made with unbolted wheat mixed with milk or buttermilk, all of 
 which abound in muscle and brain-feeding materials, is the best food for a 
 growing, active child ; indeed, the whole food of the child is given with the 
 same want of knowledge or consideration. 
 
 " But in view of these simple experiments in the Scotch j^risons, who can 
 doubt that a want of consideration of these principles of diet is the means of 
 consigning to the tomb many of our most promising children. An intelligent 
 farmer knows how to feed his land, his horses, his cattle and his pigs, but 
 not how to feed his children. He knows that fine flour is not good for pigs, 
 and he gives them the whole of the grain, or, perhaps, takes out the bran and 
 coarser part, which contains food for muscles and brains, and gives them to 
 his pigs, while the fine flour, which contains neither food for muscle or brain, 
 he gives to his children. He separates, also, the milk, and gives his pigs the 
 skim milk and buttermilk, in which are found all the elements for muscle and 
 brain, and gives his children the butter, which only heats them and makes 
 them inactive, without furnishing a particle of the nutriment which they need." 
 
 Milk and cheese are doubtless the cheapest forms of animal food that can 
 be had in our markets. They deserve to be more extensively used, and it is 
 very likely they would enter more largely into consumption were it not from 
 mistaken notions of economy, which exclude them from the table on the sup- 
 position that they are costly luxuries rather than healthful and nutritious 
 articles of food. 
 
16 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Our country is vast, and of great diversity in soil and climate. New 
 England and the Middle States have long since ceased to be regarded as 
 the most favorable sections in which men of moderate means may engage 
 in grain farming. There is a tide of emigration sweeping westward; 
 there is another tide ebbing to the cities, and so the rural population in these 
 States is constantly decreasing. We live in an age of intense competitive 
 industry ; our people are impatient for gain ; and with a natural fondness for 
 adventure, and an eagerness for any change that holds out prospect of better- 
 ment, it is not strange that old landmarks are dying out among the farming 
 population of the North Atlantic States. I shall not stop now to discuss all 
 the causes which have led to this condition of things. It will suffice for the 
 present to name one, 
 
 THE MISDIEECTIOTS" OF THE USB OF LAND, 
 
 by failing to adopt the kind of farming suited to the peculiarities of soil and 
 climate. With a favorable climate, and the proper expenditure of money, by 
 the aid of science you may force an unpropitious soil to yield amj^le returns 
 in crops to which originally it was not well adapted. But temperature, 
 moisture and climatic influence are in a measure beyond our control. 
 Hence, with many disadvantages facing us at every step, we cannot compete 
 successfully in growing grain with those sections which have none of these to 
 contend with, but have everything in their favor. If we propose to grow 
 corn and make it a specialty, the rugged lands of New York and New Eng- 
 land will not present equal advantages with the fertile bottom and prairie 
 soils of the West. From the natural fertility of these soils, and from the ease 
 with which they may be cultivated, the Western farmer can put his surplus 
 grain in our markets at a price which compels us to sell at meager profits. 
 If we grow grain, therefore, it must be as an adjunct to some specialty, 
 which gives us decided advantages over other sections. The dairy is one oi 
 those branches from which the great bulk of lands in the United States bj 
 natural causes is excluded. To the farmer, then, whose lands are adapted 
 to dairying, it presents one of the most remunerative branches of agriculture 
 in which he can engage ; and it may well be a question whether the older 
 States, lying within the dairy belt we have named, and especially those of] 
 New England, with their established institutions and nearness to the bes 
 markets in the world, may not now present inducements to the agriculturist^! 
 through the channels of dairying second to no other sections in the Union. 
 
 THE PEOGEESS AND PEESENT MAGNITUDE OF THE DAIET INTEEBST OF THE 
 
 UNITED STATES 
 
 will be shown from the figures in the following tables, made up from official 
 sources, some of which have been printed in the Patent Office reports, and 
 reports of the Department of Agriculture : 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 17 
 
 The following statement shows the number of Milch Cows, for the years 1840 1850 and 
 1860, and their rehitions to the total popnlatiou for each period : ' 
 
 States and Tebkitokies. 
 
 1840. 
 
 Ratio. 
 
 Alabama 
 
 Arkansas 
 
 California 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 Delaware 
 
 Florida 
 
 Georgia 
 
 Illinois 
 
 Indiana 
 
 Iowa 
 
 Kansas 
 
 Kentucky 
 
 Louisiana 
 
 Maine 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Massachusetts 
 
 Michigan 
 
 Minnesota 
 
 Mississippi 
 
 Missouri 
 
 New Hampshire . . . 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 New York 
 
 North Carolina 
 
 Oliio 
 
 Oregon 
 
 Pennsylvania 
 
 Rhode Island 
 
 South Carolina 
 
 Tennessee 
 
 Texas 
 
 Vermont 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 District of Columbia 
 
 Dakota 
 
 Nebraska 
 
 New Mexico 
 
 Utah 
 
 Washington 
 
 Nevada 
 
 Total 
 
 189,043 
 
 40,981 
 
 4,280 
 
 74,395 
 
 17,189 
 
 47,395 
 
 376,557 
 
 157,140 
 
 212,618 
 
 9,485 
 
 210,554 
 74,006 
 
 120,430 
 75,203 
 
 110,655 
 55,189 
 
 127,731 
 136,632 
 88,218 
 97,060 
 752,966 
 188,355 
 486,229 
 
 431,668 
 
 15,236 
 
 184,263 
 
 223,887 
 
 151,814 
 
 285,153 
 
 6,808 
 
 874 
 
 4,837,043 
 
 .32 
 
 .42 
 .05 
 .24 
 .22 
 .87 
 .40 
 .33 
 .31 
 .22 
 
 .27 
 .21 
 .24 
 .16 
 .15 
 .26 
 
 .34 
 .33 
 .81 
 .26 
 .31 
 .25 
 .32 
 
 .25 
 .14 
 .31 
 
 .27 
 
 .52 
 .23 
 .22 
 .02 
 
 .28 
 
 1850. 
 
 227,791 
 
 93,151 
 
 4,280 
 
 85,461 
 
 19,248 
 
 72,876 
 
 334,223 
 
 294,671 
 
 284,554 
 
 45,704 
 
 247,475 
 105,576 
 133,556 
 
 86,856 
 130,099 
 
 99,676 
 
 607 
 
 214,331 
 
 230,169 
 
 94,277 
 118,736 
 931,324 
 231,799 
 544,499 
 9,427 
 530,224 
 
 18,698 
 193,244 
 250.456 
 217,811 
 146,128 
 817,619 
 
 64,339 
 813 
 
 10,635 
 4,861 
 
 Ratio. 
 
 1860. 
 
 6,385,094 
 
 .30 
 .45 
 .05 
 .23 
 .21 
 .83 
 .37 
 .35 
 .29 
 .24 
 
 .25 
 .20 
 .23 
 .15 
 .13 
 .25 
 .10 
 .35 
 .34 
 .30 
 .24 
 .30 
 .25 
 .28 
 .71 
 .23 
 .13 
 .29 
 .35 
 1.03 
 .47 
 .23 
 .31 
 .03 
 
 .17 
 .43 
 
 -37 
 
 330,537 
 171,003 
 305,407 
 
 98,877 
 
 33,595 
 
 93,974 
 399,688 
 533,634 
 363,553 
 189,803 
 
 28,550 
 269,215 
 139,663 
 147,314 
 
 99,463 
 144,493 
 179,543 
 
 40,344 
 207,646 
 345,243 
 
 94,880 
 
 138,818 
 
 1,123,634 
 
 228,633 
 
 676,585 
 
 53,170 
 673,547 
 
 19,700 
 
 163,938 
 
 349,514 
 
 601,540 
 
 174,667 
 
 330,713 
 
 303,001 
 
 639 
 
 386 
 
 6,995 
 
 34,369 
 
 11,967 
 
 9,660 
 
 947 
 
 Ratio. 
 
 .34 
 .86 
 .65 
 .31 
 .20 
 .66 
 .28 
 .31 
 .36 
 .28 
 .25 
 .23 
 .18 
 .23 
 .14 
 .12 
 .27 
 .23 
 .26 
 .29 
 .29 
 .21 
 .29 
 .23 
 .30 
 1.01 
 .23 
 .11 
 .23 
 .23 
 .99 
 .54 
 .31 
 .25 
 .01 
 .11 
 .25 
 .43 
 .33 
 .90 
 
 8,581,735 
 
 .28 
 
 ARE THE FIGURES CORRECT.'' 
 
 In absence of the last official census I'eport, not yet printed for distri- 
 bution, we take the statistics of 1870 from abstract of census returns of 1869, 
 as given in the Tribune Almanac, and which purports to be a correct copy of 
 the official returns. It must be evident, however, that the butter and cheese 
 products are here put very much below the actual make, for it will be 
 observed that the amounts are but little in excess of those made in 1860. 
 Now it is well known that the increase in Dairy Farming since 1860 has 
 been very large, and has been carried into neAV districts, while the increase of 
 more than two millions two hundred and eighty thousand cows must plainly 
 2 
 
18 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 indicate a larger increase in dairy products than is here represented. In 
 the last of the two subjoined tables the statistics are given in such form that 
 the whole may be readily understood and compared. 
 
 The following table shows the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and 
 Clieese, made in the United States, in the vear 1869, according to the census of 
 . 1870: 
 
 States. 
 
 Milch Cows. Pounds of Cheese. Pounds Butteb. 
 
 Alabama 
 
 Arkansas 
 
 Califoi'nia 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 Delaware 
 
 Florida 
 
 Georgia 
 
 Illinois 
 
 Indiana 
 
 Iowa 
 
 Kansas 
 
 Kentucky 
 
 Louisiana , 
 
 Maine 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Massachusetts , 
 
 Michigan 
 
 Minnesota 
 
 Mississippi 
 
 Missouri 
 
 Nebraska 
 
 New Hampshire 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 New York 
 
 North Carolina 
 
 Ohio 
 
 Oregon 
 
 Pennsylvania 
 
 Rhode Island 
 
 South Carolina 
 
 Tennessee 
 
 Texas 
 
 Vermont 
 
 Virginia 
 
 West Virginia 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 Nevada and Territories 
 
 Total 
 
 270,537 
 
 15,923 
 
 190,500 
 
 16,810 
 
 1,330,800 
 
 1,343,689 
 
 99,350 
 
 3,898,411 
 
 24,198 
 
 6,579 
 
 99,108 
 
 5,280 
 
 301,180 
 
 15,578 
 
 850,340 
 
 1,848,557 
 
 390,450 
 
 605,795 
 
 201,740 
 
 918,635 
 
 41,310 
 
 29,045 
 
 280,191 
 
 190,400 
 
 148,320 
 
 6,153 
 
 190,110 
 
 1,799,862 
 
 100,030 
 
 8,342 
 
 160,220 
 
 5,294,090 
 
 198,580 
 
 1,641,897 
 
 60,740 
 
 199,314 
 
 300,101 
 
 4,427 
 
 390,120 
 
 259,633 
 
 
 24,342 
 
 99,540 
 
 2,323,092 
 
 149,450 
 
 182,172 
 
 1,980,300 
 
 48,548,289 
 
 301,102 
 
 51,119 
 
 960,322 
 
 21,618,893 
 
 79,312 
 
 105,379 
 
 873,212 
 
 2.508,556 
 
 23,180 
 
 181,511 
 
 171,480 
 
 1,543 
 
 260,190 
 
 135,575 
 
 640,302 
 
 275,128 
 
 190,420 
 
 8,215,030 
 
 401,860 
 
 280,852 
 
 
 Included in Va. 
 
 250,312 
 
 1,104,300 
 
 
 10,500,000 
 
 11,008,925 
 
 114.154,211 
 
 6,028,478 
 4,067,556 
 3,095,035 
 7,620,912 
 1,430,502 
 408,855 
 5,439,765 
 
 28,052,551 
 
 18,306,651 
 
 11,953,666 
 1,093,497 
 
 11,716,609 
 1,444,742 
 
 11,687,781 
 5,265,295 
 8,297,936 
 
 15,503,482 
 2,957,673 
 5,006,610 
 
 12,704,837 
 
 604,541 
 
 6,956,764 
 
 10,714,447 
 
 103,097,280 
 
 4,735,495 
 
 48,543,163 
 1,000,157 
 
 58,653,511 
 1,021,767 
 3,177,934 
 
 10,017,787 
 5,850,583 
 
 15,900,359 
 
 13,464,723 
 Included in Va. 
 
 13,611,328 
 
 11,100.000 
 
 470,536,468 
 
 The following table gives the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and 
 Cheese, manufactured during each of the years ending the successive decades ac- 
 cording to the United States census reports of 1840, 1850, 1860 and 1870: ' 
 
 Milch Cows. 
 
 Value of Daiet Products. 
 
 1840. 
 
 4,837,043 
 
 $33,787,008 
 
 Milch Cows. 
 
 Pounds Butter. | Pounds Cheese. 
 
 1850. 
 1860. 
 1870. 
 
 6,385,094 
 
 8,581,735 
 
 11 008,925 
 
 313,345,306 
 459,681,372 
 470.536,468 
 
 105,535,893 
 103,663,927 
 114,154,211 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 19 
 
 Table showing the number of Milch Cows, quantity of BuUer made and amount of 
 Cheese and Milk sold in the State of New York, according to Census of 1865 : 
 
 Counties. 
 
 Milch 
 1864, I 
 
 Cows. 
 1S65. 
 
 Albany 
 
 Allegany. . . . 
 
 Broome 
 
 Cattaraugus. . 
 
 Cayuga 
 
 Chautauqua. . 
 Chemung.. . . 
 Chenango.... 
 
 Clinton 
 
 Columbia. . . . 
 
 Cortland 
 
 Delaware. ... 
 Dutchess. ... 
 
 Erie 
 
 Essex 
 
 Franklin 
 
 Fulton 
 
 Genesee 
 
 Greene 
 
 Hamilton. ... 
 Herkimer ... 
 
 Jefferson , 
 
 Kings 
 
 Lewis 
 
 Livingston.. . , 
 
 Madison 
 
 Monroe 
 
 Montgomer_v. 
 New York. . , 
 
 Niagara 
 
 Oneida , 
 
 Onondaga. .. , 
 
 Ontario 
 
 Orange .-. 
 
 Orleans 
 
 Oswego 
 
 Otsego 
 
 Putnam 
 
 Queens 
 
 Rensselaer. . . 
 Richmond. . . 
 
 Rockland 
 
 St. Lawrence., 
 
 Saratoga 
 
 Schenectady . 
 
 Schoharie 
 
 Schujder 
 
 Seneca 
 
 Stuben 
 
 Suffolk 
 
 Sullivan 
 
 Tioga 
 
 Tompkins. . . . 
 
 Ulster 
 
 Warren 
 
 Washington. . 
 
 Wayne 
 
 Westchester. . 
 
 Wyoming 
 
 Yates 
 
 11,080 
 20,798 
 22,178 
 34,208 
 21,291 
 42,703 
 10,889 
 46,734 
 12 603 
 12,266 
 29,295 
 45,217 
 20,114 
 34,441 
 
 9,004 
 15,847 
 10,234 
 
 9,193 
 13,350 
 
 1,082 
 46,627 
 56,551 
 
 4,023 
 30,848 
 10,880 
 29,093 
 15,058 
 20,269 
 79 
 11,793 
 60,648 
 24,861 
 13,634 
 40,021 
 
 7,136 
 29,503 
 41,226 
 
 8,336 
 
 7,628 
 15,405 
 
 1,195 
 
 3,610 
 65,262 
 15.148 
 
 5,374 
 19,461 
 
 7,320 
 
 6,496 
 24,172 
 
 8,538 
 13,487 
 14,109 
 15,878 
 18,561 
 
 6,016 
 17,315 
 14,256 
 16,719 
 19,499 
 
 6,919 
 
 10,615 
 18,525 
 20,696 
 30,559 
 21,794 
 40,008 
 
 9,647 
 41,459 
 13,968 
 11,942 
 31,920 
 38,525 
 20,014 
 31,851 
 
 9,219 
 15,804 
 
 9,974 
 
 9,009 
 12,059 
 
 1,043 
 45,461 
 55,198 
 
 4,030 
 30,639 
 10,605 
 28,995 
 14,962 
 19,903 
 86 
 11,860 
 58,417 
 23,730 
 13,411 
 40,096 
 
 7,197 
 28,393 
 36,040 
 
 8,426 
 
 7,893 
 14,302 
 
 1,191 
 
 3,658 
 65,286 
 14,583 
 
 5,118 
 16,506 
 
 6,897 
 
 6,470 
 22,785 
 
 9,057 
 12,667 
 12,672 
 14,575 
 18,226 
 
 5,874 
 16,863 
 14,229 
 17,154 
 18,329 
 
 6,828| 
 
 Pounds of 
 
 BuTTEK Made. 
 
 1864. 
 
 Pounds op 
 
 Cheese Sold. 
 
 1864. 
 
 Gallons of 
 
 Milk Sold. 
 
 1864. 
 
 1,066,196 
 
 1,655,776 
 
 2,291,268 
 
 2,412,223 
 
 2,208,049 
 
 105,205 
 
 105,345 
 
 4,042,336 
 
 946,725 
 
 965,064 
 
 2,683,773 
 
 5,052,295 
 
 1,358,573 
 
 1,558,573 
 
 654,174 
 
 1,226,598 
 
 706,612 
 
 763,082;^ 
 
 1,327,054 
 
 96,174 
 
 953,118 
 
 3,100,234 
 
 16,315 
 
 1,663,950 
 
 1,052,804 
 
 1,569,342 
 
 1,374,890 
 
 1,035,7311^ 
 
 966,286 
 2,868,740 
 2,149,141 
 1,110,592 
 2,363,6613^ 
 
 804,209^ 
 1,988,0603^ 
 2,811,199 
 
 272,924 
 
 424,063^/ 
 1,144,726 
 23,575 
 
 231,231 
 5,417,779 
 1,323,024 
 
 514,607 
 1,978,640 
 
 737,673 
 
 690,428 
 2,261,034 
 
 596,189 
 1,195,868 
 1,432,650 
 1,676,823 
 1,547,217 
 
 478,0853^ 
 1,817,397 
 1,320,004 
 
 525,032 
 1,279,761 
 
 642,324 
 
 20,783 
 
 1,325,748 
 
 113,922 
 
 3,635,356 
 
 205,155 
 
 2,105,642 
 
 21,747 
 
 2,552,066 
 
 100,020 
 
 23,447 
 
 2,074,155 
 
 35,519 
 
 11,599 
 
 3,344,734 
 
 96,255 
 
 125,732 
 
 991,002 
 
 80,263 
 
 16,961 
 
 1,855 
 
 13,893,801 
 
 5,348,615 
 
 4,755,643 
 
 101,417 
 
 3,452,682 
 
 69,044 
 
 4,207,006 
 
 52,260 
 
 8,108,540 
 
 1,844,326 
 
 119,357 
 
 132,575 
 
 59,598 
 
 2,383,806 
 
 3,335,144 
 
 1,155 
 
 528,133 
 
 650 
 
 2,922,001 
 
 185,161 
 
 82,064 
 
 143,641 
 
 32,948 
 
 12,331 
 
 291,185 
 
 1,030 
 
 12,316 
 
 49.655 
 
 885,697 
 
 1,060 
 
 71,139 
 
 807,374 
 
 90,591 
 
 186 
 
 1,801,781 
 
 30,084j 
 
 464,885 
 
 250 
 
 41,385 
 
 12,513 
 
 91.511 
 
 73,085 
 
 84,449 
 
 11,653 
 
 6,300 
 
 231,130 
 
 715 
 
 6,046 
 
 8,964,574 
 
 489,206 
 
 970 
 
 1,100 
 
 1,084 
 
 104,623 
 
 2,193 
 
 100 
 
 17,686 
 
 278,237 
 
 444,530 
 
 138,126 
 
 38,233 
 
 13,506 
 
 858,400 
 
 7,885 
 
 12,650 
 
 25,889 
 
 191,698 
 
 262,946 
 
 32,020 
 
 8,835,0523^ 
 
 75 
 
 69,151 
 
 18,279 
 
 2,841,453 
 
 929,131 
 
 556,688 
 
 4,793 
 
 215,884 
 
 119,187 
 
 115,556 
 
 118,094 
 
 4,235 
 
 8,500 
 
 21,894 
 
 22,485 
 
 22,330 
 
 89,928 
 
 604 
 
 81,167 
 
 134,099 
 
 17,485 
 
 21,819 
 
 47,305 
 
 3,928,845 
 
 43,407 
 
 10,551 
 
 Total I 1,195,481] 1,147,251] 84,584,458] 72,195,837] 39,631,5303^ 
 
20 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 As a basis foi' estimating the probable production, the following table 
 will be useful: 
 
 This table shows the total produce of Milk in thirteen States, for the year ending June 30, 
 1860, and also the quantity used for food, and the amount manufactured into Butter 
 and Cheese for each State : 
 
 States. 
 
 Milch 
 Cows. 
 
 NUMBEE. 
 
 Total 
 Produce. 
 Quarts. 
 
 Used as Food. 
 
 Man'factur'd 
 Butter. 
 Quarts. 
 
 Manufac- 
 tured 
 Cheese. 
 Quarts. 
 
 Maine 
 
 New Hampshire 
 
 Vermont 
 
 Massachusetts.. . 
 
 lihode Island 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 New York 
 
 Pennsylvania. . . 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 Delaware 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Total 
 
 147,314 
 
 94,880 
 
 174,667 
 
 144,492 
 
 19,700 
 
 98,877 
 
 1,123,634 
 
 673,547 
 
 138,818 
 
 22,595 
 
 99,463 
 
 203,001 
 
 330,713 
 
 265,165,200 
 170,784,000 
 309,056,400 
 260,085,600 
 
 35,460,000 
 177,978,600 
 ,022,521,400 
 ,212,384,600 
 249,872,400 
 
 40,671,000 
 170,033,400 
 349,192,800 
 595,128,600 
 
 112,013,085 
 
 75,052,328 
 
 81,288,157 
 
 135,555,626 
 
 21,570,272 
 
 63,585,989 
 
 543,030,641 
 
 553,828,525 
 
 109,868,653 
 
 22,763,870 
 
 96,286,486 
 
 174,214,114 
 
 405,561,119 
 
 146 
 
 86 
 
 196 
 
 103 
 
 13 
 
 99 
 
 ,288 
 
 648 
 
 139 
 
 17 
 
 73 
 
 170 
 
 188 
 
 097,262 
 .959,550 
 022,925 
 724,200 
 ,193,128 
 ,071,856 
 ,695,987 
 ,697,450 
 ,287,811 
 ,881,275 
 ,714,130 
 638,162 
 ,463,968 
 
 3,281,701 5,858,334,000 2,394,618,865 3,172,447,704 291,267,431 
 
 7,054,853 
 
 8,772,122 
 
 31,745,318 
 
 20,805,774 
 
 696,600 
 
 15,320,755 
 
 190,794,772 
 
 9,858,625 
 
 715,936 
 
 25,855 
 
 32,784 
 
 4,340,524 
 
 1,103,513 
 
 According to these statistics fifty-four per cent, of the entire produce was 
 made into butter. Now, on this basis, if we take one thousand eight hundred 
 quarts of milk as the annual product on an average for each cow, and 
 eighteen (1 8) quarts as the average quantity of milk required for a pound of 
 butter, then the eleven millions and nine thousand cows of 1870 would 
 yield, if their milk was all made into butter, one billion one hundred 
 million pounds ; and if fifty-four per cent, of this is the actual product of the 
 country, as is represented in the table for 1860, then we have the butter 
 product of 1870 represented by neai'ly six hundred million pounds. But we 
 think it may be safely estimated at more than this. The report of the Amer- 
 ican Dairymen's Association for 1870, gives a list of nearly one thousand one 
 hundred cheese factories. The list is very incomplete, as it is well known 
 that there are a much larger number ; but this list alone, at an average of 
 four hundred cows to the factory, would embrace nearly a half million of 
 cows. There are a large number of farms scattered over the country, where 
 cheese manufacture is carried on at the farm, and if the number of cows so 
 employed be added to the number belonging to factories not reported, there 
 can be but little doubt but that the whole number employed for cheese dairy- 
 ing would be swelled to eight himdred thousand cows. At three hundred 
 pounds of cheese to the cow, we should have the product of 1870, amounting 
 to two hundred and forty million pounds. 
 
 Now, according to the table for 1860, forty-one per cent, of the milk 
 product is consumed directly as food, fifty-four per cent, is made into butter, 
 and five per cent, is made into cheese. Therefore we find that, allowing five 
 quarts of milk to the pound of cheese, and taking five per cent, of the gross 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 21 
 
 amount of milk, the cheese product of 1870 would amoimt to nearly two 
 hundred million pounds, and this too on the basis that ratios are the same in 
 1870 as 1860. We may remark here that 
 
 THE ANNUAL AVERAGE PRODUCT OF COWS 
 
 in our estimate, (viz., — three hundred and sixty pounds of cheese per head ; 
 or, if the milk is made into butter, one hundred pounds of butter per head,) 
 is considered only a fair average annual jDroduct. These estimates of the 
 present annual cheese product correspond very nearly with the quantity 
 estimated by those who have kept statistics in regard to this branch of 
 industry. They put the whole product of cheese made in 1869 at two 
 hundred and forty million pounds. If anything more was needed to show 
 
 THE INACURACY OF THE CENSUS RETURNS 
 
 of 1869 as here reported, we might refer to the cheese product of ISTew York 
 for that year in the table which is put at forty-eight million five hundred and 
 forty-eight thousand two hundred and eighty-nine pounds, when according to 
 the New York census returns of 1864 the quantity of cheese made in the 
 State that year for sale and exclusive of what was consumed in families of 
 farmers amounted to seventy-two million one hundred and ninety-five thou- 
 sand three hundred and thirty-seven poimds. Cheese dairying in New York 
 since 1864 has been largely increased. 
 
 From the incomplete retui-ns published in the report of the American 
 Daiiymen's Association for 1870, we find eight hundred and twenty-five 
 factories given, and if each averaged three hundred cows they would make 
 a total of two hundred and forty-seven thousand cows. If we estimate four 
 hundred pounds of cheese to the cow as the average product, the gross make of 
 cheese at these factories would amount to ninety-eight million eight hundred 
 thousand pounds. In view of all the facts in my possession, I feel warranted in 
 placing the butter product of the United States and Territories during 1870 
 at more than six hundred million pounds, and the cheese product at two 
 hundred and forty million pounds. The table, on next page, given by Dr. 
 LooMis in the Patent Ofiice report of 1861, will be of interest, as showing 
 
 THE PER CENTAGE OP MILK CONSUMPTION, PREVIOUS TO 1861, IN THIRTEEN 
 
 STATES. 
 
 " It is worthy of notice," he says, " that but five States, viz., New 
 Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York, use over 
 three per cent, of their milk for cheese, and that all south of Pennsylvania 
 use less than one per cent. Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Maryland 
 produce the least in proportion to their population ; Vermont, New Hamp- 
 shire, New York and Wisconsin produce the most in proportion to their 
 population. Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and 
 Maryland, consume the least in proportion to their population. Virginia 
 consumes as food nearly seventy per cent, of the entire milk product of that 
 State ; Rhode Island over sixty per cent., and Maryland, Delaware, Massa- 
 
22 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 chusetts and Wisconsin over fifty per cent, of the product of the States 
 severally. New York and Vermont manufacture into butter nearly two- 
 thirds of their entire milk product. But one State, Virginia, uses less than 
 one-third of its milk in the manufacture of butter. Rhode Island uses the 
 largest per centage in the manufacture of cheese ; New York the largest per 
 centage in butter ; and Virginia the largest per centage as food. Virginia 
 uses the smallest per centage in butter and cheese, and Vermont the least 
 per centage as food. 
 
 This table shows the per centage of Milk consumed as food, and manufactured into Butter 
 and Cheese. Also, the average produce in quarts to each person, and the average 
 amount each consumed : 
 
 States. 
 
 Maine 
 
 New Hampsiiire. 
 
 Vermont 
 
 Massachusetts. . . 
 Rhode Island . . . 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 New York 
 
 Pennsylvania . . . 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 Delaware 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 Virginia 
 
 Consumed. 
 Pek Cent. 
 
 BUTTEK. 
 
 Pek Cent. 
 
 42 
 
 .55 
 
 44 
 
 .50 
 
 26 
 
 .63 
 
 52 
 
 .40 
 
 61 
 
 .37 
 
 35 
 
 .56 
 
 27 
 
 .64 
 
 46 
 
 .53 
 
 44 
 
 .55-1- 
 
 56— 
 
 .44— 
 
 57— 
 
 .43— 
 
 50 
 
 .48 
 
 68-1- 
 
 .31-1- 
 
 Manufac- 
 
 TUBED 
 
 Cheese. 
 Pek Cent. 
 
 .03 
 
 .06 
 
 .11 
 
 .08 
 
 .02 
 
 .09 
 
 .09 
 
 .01 
 
 .01- 
 
 .01- 
 
 .01- 
 
 .02 
 
 .01- 
 
 Average 
 
 Produce to 
 
 Each Person. 
 
 Quarts. 
 
 Average 
 Consumed 
 BY Each 
 
 Person. 
 
 Quarts. 
 
 422 
 524 
 980 
 211 
 203 
 287 
 520 
 417 
 372 
 362 
 247 
 463 
 373 
 
 177 
 230 
 255 
 110 
 124 
 135 
 140 
 193 
 163 
 203 
 141 
 232 
 254 
 
 " The average amount consumed daily by each individual, taking the 
 whole thirteen States, is one pint. The greatest average daily consumed by 
 each person is 1.6 pint in Vermont and Virginia. The least average daily 
 consumed by each person is 0.6 of a pint in Massachusetts. 
 
 Dr. LooMis gives the following table, showing the quantity of Milk received in the city 
 of New York, at the depots of the Erie, Harlem and Long Island Railroad compa- 
 nies, for the year ending June 30, 1861 : 
 
 Months. 
 
 Harlem K. R. 
 
 Quarts. 
 
 Erie E. E. 
 Quarts. 
 
 Long Island 
 E. E. 
 
 Quarts. 
 
 Total. 
 Quarts. 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September. , 
 
 October 
 
 November. , 
 December . , 
 
 January 
 
 February. . , 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 Total 
 
 2,816,720 
 2,657,150 
 2,399,410 
 2,320,610 
 2,057,570 
 2,068,320 
 2,061,730 
 1,853,080 
 2,169,590 
 2,203,010 
 2,436,800 
 2.463,090 
 
 2,743,750 
 2,636,880 
 2,225,800 
 1,959,740 
 1,715,128 
 1,564,670 
 1,547,630 
 1,474,150 
 1,788,910 
 1,944,770 
 2,320,670 
 2,492,510 
 
 282,530 
 286,250 
 265,190 
 269,890 
 267,890 
 262,660 
 260,010 
 266,740 
 275,840 
 286,180 
 301,900 
 301,650 
 
 27,507,080 
 
 24,414.608 3.326,730 
 
 5,843.000 
 5,580,280 
 4,890,400 
 4,550,240 
 4,040,588 
 3,895,650 
 3,869,370 
 3,593,970 
 4,234,340 
 4,433,960 
 5,059,370 
 5,257,250 
 
 55,248,418 
 
 In 1861 thirty thousand six hmidred and ninety-four cows were required 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 
 
 23 
 
 to supply the milk transported to New York city on the Harlem, Erie 
 and Long Island Kailroads. The average annual cost of transport was five 
 hundred and fifty-two thousand four hundred and eighty-four dollars, and 
 the cost of milk as received for transportation was one million one hundred 
 and four thousand nine hundred and sixty-eight dollars annually. We have 
 no statistics at hand to show the quantity of milk used in New York city 
 for the year 1870, but the quantity and its cost must be very much greater 
 than in 1861. 
 
 VALUE OF THE MILK CROP IN 1860. 
 
 Dr. LooMis says : — " The value cf the milk crop may be very fairly 
 estimated from the value of milk used in the manufacture of butter. Fifty- 
 four per cent, of the entire crop in the thirteen States before named is made 
 into butter ; hence, the value of butter forms a very correct basis for ascer- 
 taining the true value of milk. In the following table the prices of milk given 
 for each State has been derived by taking the average prices given for the 
 cost value of butter at the places where it is made, and extended over a 
 period of twelve years. 
 
 The localities were selected from various sections of each State. This 
 method was pursued with all the States except Wisconsin, which extended 
 over a period of only three years. 
 
 He adds : — " I am aware that these values, with the exception of Dela- 
 ware, fall below the generally estimated value of milk, yet I am confident 
 that if there is any variation from the true value, it is that I have over-esti- 
 mated them." 
 
 The value of milk in the United States in 1860, or befoi'e the war, he 
 thought would average less than one cent and five mills per quart. 
 
 He says : — " The following table is a correct statement of the value of 
 milk per quart ; the total value of the crop ; together with the value of the 
 amount consumed in each of the named States : 
 
 States. 
 
 Pbicb per Quart 
 Cents. 
 
 Value Consumed. 
 
 Total Value. 
 
 Maine 
 
 New Hampshire. 
 
 Vermont 
 
 Massachusetts. . . 
 
 Rhode Island 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 New York 
 
 Pennsylvania. . . , 
 
 New jersey 
 
 Delaware 
 
 Maryland 
 
 Wisconsin 
 
 Virginia 
 
 1.36 
 1.44 
 1.28 
 1.68 
 1.64 
 1.60 
 1.36 
 1.28 
 1.76 
 2.00 
 1.20 
 1.48 
 1.13 
 
 $1,523 
 1,080 
 1,040 
 
 2,277 
 
 353 
 
 1,017 
 
 7,385 
 
 7,089 
 
 1,933 
 
 455 
 
 1,155 
 
 ■ 2,578 
 
 4,542 
 
 377 96 
 ,753 52 
 ,488 41 
 ,334 52 
 ,752 46 
 ,375 82 
 ,216 72 
 005 12 
 ,688 29 
 277 40 
 ,437 83 
 ,368 89 
 ,284 53 
 
 Total. 
 
 $32,432,361 47 
 
 $3,606,246 72 
 
 2,459,289 60 
 
 3,955,921 92 
 
 4,369,438 08 
 
 518,544 00 
 
 2,847,657 60 
 
 27,506,291 04 
 
 15,518,522 88 
 
 4,396,754 24 
 
 813,420 00 
 
 2,040,400 80 
 
 5,160,053 44 
 
 6,665,440 32 
 
 $79,857,980 64 
 
 With the above tables as a basis, it was estimated that the entire milk 
 
24 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 crop of the United States for the year 1860, exceeded $160,000,000, or as 
 
 follows : 
 
 Amount consumed as food, $90,000,000 
 
 Amount manufactured into butter, 65,000,000 
 
 Amount manufactured into cheese, 5,000,000 
 
 Total, $160,000,000 
 
 The additional value produced by the manufacture and transportation of 
 butter and cheese he estimates will make the value of the crop for the year 
 1860, exceed $200,000,000. The estimate is made on the value of milk at 
 1.48 cent per quart. At two cents per quart the value of the dairy would be 
 upwards of 260,000,000. 
 
 MILK PRODUCT OF 1870. 
 
 Now if we proceed upon the above basis in estimating the entire milk 
 crop of 1870, taking its increase of quantity and advanced prices, we shall 
 have the following. 
 
 Milk consumed as food, say 40 per cent, of wLole product, at 2 
 
 cents per quart $170,400,000 
 
 600,000,000 pounds of butter, at 30 cents, 180,000,000 
 
 240,000,000 pounds of cheese, at 12 cents, 28,800,000 
 
 Total, $379,200,000 
 
 This is below the estimate made by Commissioner Wells in his Report 
 upon the " Industry, Trade and Commerce of the United States," for the 
 year 1869. He puts the value of dairy products of the United States at 
 $400,000,000 per annum. It will be seen, then, that the diary has become 
 an important branch of National Industry. 
 
DAIRY FARMS AND FIXTURES. 
 
 In Dairy Farming the first thing, natiirally, to be considered is the farm. 
 Reference has been made to the importance of a suitable climate as one of 
 the requisites to success. Experience and experiment must of course deter- 
 mine what our several localities are best adapted to ; but it is certain that 
 much of the land in this Northern belt is well adapted for making butter and 
 cheese. Its climate is comparatively cool, and that is a matter of great mo- 
 ment in securing dairy products of fine flavor and quality. With its showers 
 and dews, pure water and fresh sweet feed, it answers the description of a 
 good dairy country, which the warmer and drier Southern and Western lati- 
 tudes do not. I am satisfied there is no branch of farming in this Northern 
 belt that will sufl'er less from outside competition than dairying, and hence, 
 where locality favors it nothing in the long run will pay better. 
 
 PERMANENT PASTURES. 
 
 But climate may be favorable and locality unfavorable for the dairy. We 
 must consider whether the lands are naturally adapted to grass, or that pas- 
 tures at least may be made enduring, and that the farm is well provided with 
 an abundance of pure water. 
 
 These two points are very essential to success. I refer to pastures, in dis- 
 tinction from meadows, because a rotation of crops may be adopted on arable 
 land, so that sufiicient hay may be produced, where the natural condition of 
 the soil would not continue to be productive of grass from year to year, 
 during long periods. But pastures should be of a character to be made 
 enduring, for a variety of reasons which I shall presently notice. 
 
 SIZE OF HEEDS. 
 
 The question is often asked, how large a number of cows can be kept 
 profitably in one herd ? or, rather, what is the limit to the number that will 
 yield the best average returns as a dairy ? I have taken some pains to get 
 the opinion of practical dairymen, both in this country and in Europe, on this 
 question ; and it seems to be the universal expression of those who have 
 given the matter attention, that, in their experience, sixty cows are about the 
 limit, or maximum number. If we take pains to look up the largest average 
 yield of dairies in the country, we shall find, almost invariably, that they are 
 among the small herds numbering from twenty to forty cows. 
 
26 Practical Daiby Husbandry. 
 
 Very large herds become unwieldy. They are more subject to disease, and 
 a larger number of accidents in proportion, than smaller herds. In driving 
 to and fro in the pasture, there is more excitement or worry, which operates 
 to lessen the average quantity of milk. There is also a greater proportion of 
 farrow, or abortive stock in such herds, hence in New York, dairymen who 
 have large farms, prefer to divide them up, making their dairies number from 
 thirty to fifty cows each. ■ 
 
 DIVIDING HERDS. 
 
 I found this condition of things prevailing in the dairy districts of Eng- 
 land and Scotland, and I therefore conclude that herds having a larger num- 
 ber than sixty cows are not to be generally recommended. If it is desired, 
 however, to keep a larger number, I should advise that the cows be pastured 
 in separate herds of say thirty each, and that they be milked and wintered in 
 separate stables, allowing no communication among the several branches. 
 
 In some instances, I have seen dairies of a hundred cows, divided up into 
 two herds of fifty each, and good results were obtained. The herds were 
 milked and wintered in one barn, but in stables opposite or adjoining each 
 other, and so arranged that the cows of the different herds could have no 
 communication with each other whatever. 
 
 This fact in relation to the size of herds it is important to understand ; 
 since large losses have been made by persons who have tried the herding of 
 a large number of animals together for dairy purposes. 
 
 TElSrCING. 
 
 There is another point of considerable economy in the management of 
 dairy farms, often overlooked even by old and experienced dairymen, and this 
 is in regard to fences. In New York it is daily becoming a problem of 
 increasing interest where we are to obtain our fences. All sorts of hedges 
 are recommended, but who has ever seen a good one in New England or New 
 York ! — one that will stand the test of every day practical utility in turning 
 stock ? In England they are easily enough produced, and so are pastures. 
 A humid atmosphere, frequent showers, frosts so light as not to injure grass 
 in winter or even render it unfit for the sustenance of sheep ordinarily, even 
 in mid-winter. Absence of our fervid heats of summer, and during summer 
 many more hours of daylight render any comparison between that country and 
 cur own in the way of growing hedges, of doubtful character. But few per- 
 sons, I imagine, have even sat down to fairly estimate 
 
 THE EXPENSE OF FENCING THE FARMS OF A STATE. 
 
 It has been vaguely estimated that 140,000,000 would not fence the farms 
 of New York. But to fence one hundred acres of land with only four lots 
 require nearly eight hundred rods of fence, which, at $1.50 per rod, would 
 cost $1,200. Now deduct one-third of this for the fencing of the contiguous 
 farms, and we have |800 per hundred acres for the cost of board fences. A 
 town— after rejecting poor land— of say one hundred such farms, would cost 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 27 
 
 $30,000, and a county of twenty such towns the enormous sum of at least 
 $1,500,000. Multiply that by the number of counties in a State and see what 
 an immense sum we arrive at. The corollory is a safe one that the fences of 
 IsTew York cost more than the Erie Canal or the Central Railroad. At least 
 one-third of these fences are of no earthly use, but on the contrary, it can be 
 proved, are a serious damage. 
 
 Upon dairy forms, therefore where it is practicable, the farm should have 
 but one line of interior fence. Immense sums are thrown away by the farm- 
 ers of the country in 
 
 USELESS SMALL ENCLOSURES, 
 
 It is not necessary to go into the exact details of cost in erecting a substan- 
 tial fence, dividing a farm into ten acre lots. This in the outset is a heavy 
 outlay of capital and labor, but the burthen of repairing must be carried 
 from year to year. Division lines between farms should always be marked 
 with good substantial barriers. Where stone are plenty upon the farm, they 
 are perhaps well employed in division or line fences, but it is hardly advisable 
 to use them for interior barriers, especially such as may require to be removed 
 from time to time. 
 
 In early times when timber was plenty, and forests to be cleared, the 
 expense of fencing a farm was of not so much account as now. Then a 
 selection of timber could be made and a thousand rails split, with but a trifle 
 more labor than a quarter that number from the cullings of the present wood 
 lot of the farm. Timber among the early settlers was considered of very 
 little value. Now it is costly, and the farmer who has much fence to build 
 must study economy in material as well as in labor, and even under the best 
 management he finds the expense burthensome. The division of a dairy 
 farm into numerous small enclosures, I regard as poor economy, and in many 
 ways objectionable. 
 
 The generality of fences upon American farms, to say the least, are 
 unsightly. Besides the first expense and labor of keeping them in repair, 
 they occupy too much land, and are a harbor for weeds and bushes, and 
 briars ; all of which must be put down as serious objections. 
 
 I know there are men who claim great advantages for small enclosures, 
 and who regard five, eight, or ten aci-e lots as almost indispensable in their 
 farming operations. I do not propose to argue points with them, but simply 
 suggest that the cost of fencing such enclosures for ten years be figured, and 
 compared with the advantages claimed. In most instances, I think, the 
 balance sheet will be a strong argument against the fences. Of course some 
 small enclosures may be necessary, such as that for the vegetable garden, the 
 orchard, &c. I do not object to these, but to the extending of them over 
 the whole farm. Upon half the farms in the old States, it would pay the 
 occupants to 
 
 EMPLOY AN EXPERIENCED ENGINEER, 
 
 to make a careful survey of the farm and establish the location of fences. 
 Let the farmer make a plain statement of the character of farming he is 
 
28 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 about to follow, his actual necessities upon the farm, requiring of the fence 
 engineer a reduction of the fences to the lowest possible point. I am very 
 certain that the fences on most farms may be so arranged as to afford ample 
 convenience, and yet be largely reduced as to length. The necessity of 
 building strong and high fences along the road-side is not so imperative now 
 as formerly. There is a law in many of the States against cattle running at 
 large in the highways, which ought to be enacted in all the States and put in 
 force in every neighborhood. 
 
 THE LOG AKD EAIL FENCES 
 
 of the early settlers, have both had their day. Neither is to be recommended, 
 except perhaps in heavily wooded regions, where timber is of little value. l| 
 In old districts they must soon pass away, since timber is becoming scarce 
 and land is too valuable to be wasted by this character of barrier. They are 
 very objectionable in plowing, and even upon dairy farms when such a fence 
 divides pasture and meadow, considerable more expense is required to do 
 the mowing, as the machine cannot run into the corners, which must be 
 trimmed by hand. Besides, as was remarked at the outset, they are a harbor 
 for weeds and bushes, since they are more liable to be left uncut, than when 
 the fences are straight, and there are no corners to prevent obstructions, as 
 the woi'k goes on. It should be remembered that we do not fence against 
 the strength of cattle ; for if our animals Avere so inclined, they would break 
 down nearly all the wooden fences which we build. What Ave seek in the 
 construction of interior farm fences, is to build a barrier that Avill appear 
 formidable to cattle, of sufficient strength to resist ordinary storms of wind, 
 and the occasional contact from cattle rubbing against it. It should be so 
 high that cattle cannot reach over it, so compact that they cannot get their 
 heads through it, and so near the ground that they cannot get under it. 
 
 MOVEABLE PANELS. 
 
 For surrounding patches of land that require breaking up and cultivating, 
 and to be returned again to grass an effectual barrier can be erected at much 
 less expense for labor and material than the heavy post and board fence 
 commonly recommended. There are various forms of moveable panels, 
 easily erected and taken down and removed from place to place, which are 
 of great practical utility and economy upon dairy farms. Some of our New 
 York dairy farmers find the picket fence the most formidable barrier to 
 cattle, of all the kinds of wooden fence in use. 
 
 A LIGHT FENCE 
 
 of this description, and which has been found to be an ample protection 
 against stock, for patches of grain, vegetables, &c., recommended by Mr. S. S. 
 Whiteman of Herkimer, is constructed as folloAvs : — The pickets are four feet 
 long, two inches wide and five-eights of an inch thick. They are nailed three 
 inches apart on the rails, or seventeen pickets to the rod. The rails are ten 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 29 
 
 feet long, two inches wide and one and a half inches thick, three rails to a 
 panel ; that is — a rail at top and bottom, and the third rail running 
 diagonally between the other two in the form of a brace. In making these 
 panels a frame or skeleton form is constructed arranged with wooden pins, 
 so as to se-jDarate the various pieces the desired distance apart. 
 
 The top and bottom rails are then dropped into their apj)ropriate places, 
 the pickets arranged between the pins, where they are rapidly nailed with 
 five-penny nails. After the skeleton frame is once constructed, these panels 
 may be speedily made. The pickets do not cover the ends of the rails, a 
 space being left for lapping the panels together, when they are to be set up 
 in the fence. The method of putting the fence up is to let the rails of one 
 section overlap the rails of the other at the point where they are joined 
 together ; the sections being suj^ported at the right height from the ground 
 by a stone or block. Then a stake about the size of a common hand spike, is 
 driven down on each side of the lapping sections, and supporting block, and 
 the top of the stakes fastened together with wire. These panels can be 
 easily loaded on a wagon rack and removed from place to place as needed. 
 
 DIGGING POST HOLES. 
 
 Line fences and that separating the pasture and madow may be of a more 
 permanent character. When posts are to be set, the holes can be dug 
 expeditiously after the following method : — First, strike a line and mark off 
 the distances between the posts, sticking small stakes about four inches from 
 the line. Then make the center of the hole opposite the stakes. The digger 
 stands faceing the line of fence, making the hole the width of the spade at 
 the line, and slanting towards him as he digs, while all the other sides are 
 perpendicular. This slant enables the digger to lower the handle of his spade 
 and bring up a full spadeful, enabling him to do the work easily and 
 expeditiously. 
 
 BOAKD FENCE. 
 
 There are various ways of making board fence. When boards sixteen 
 feet long are used, they may be six inches wide and one inch thick. The 
 posts then should be set seven and a-half feet apart. Fasten the boards at 
 each end with a seven inch spike and a two and a half inch slat, resting the 
 boards on the spikes. The lap on each end of the boards should be six inches. 
 
 At the middle post, as there is no lap, a six inch spike may be used. If 
 the boards used are but thirteen feet long, they should be one and a-fourth 
 inches thick, and the middle post may be omitted. By ushig slats, and 
 allowing the boards to rest on spikes, rather than driving them through the 
 boards, they are less liable to decay, while the panels may be easily 
 removed as occasion may require. The question of 
 
 ECONOMY IN" FENCING 
 
 does not receive the attention which it deserves among farmers. The cost 
 of fencing farms, and their repair year after year is enormous. It would be 
 well if we could look forward to something more tasteful than the rail 
 
30 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 structures, which disfigure the country at every hand. We must get in the 
 way of doing work ii. a more economical way. As we grow older as a 
 nation, structures, whether they be in buildings or fences, must inevitably be 
 improved. It would be better that we begin at once since much money^ 
 would in the end be saved. I 
 
 CHANGE OF PASTURES. ■ 
 
 I have endeavored to show the importence of economy in the matter of 
 fencing, and it may be well perhaps in this connection to name some of the 
 practicle results of the plan recommended. The practice which obtains with 
 some of dividing the pasturage into separate fields, and changing the herd 
 every week or two from field to field is now generally disapproved of by our 
 best dairymen. 
 
 Cows confined to one field are more quiet and contented. They will 
 usually go over in the course of the day every portion of the field, selecting 
 their food, and when filled they lie down to rest, and manufacture grass into 
 milk. All extra labor, excitement and gluttinous feeding from an over 
 stimulated appetite lessens the quantity of milk. Everything about the 
 " every day pasture '' is familiar, and if food is abundant, they have no 
 thought beyond leisurely taking their meals, and reclining at ease on some 
 favorite spot, ruminating or dozing over their " knitting work " as it has 
 been aptly termed— no shadow of discontent clouding their peaceful and 
 seemingly happy existance. 
 
 But let a bite of grass in new fields be had and all this is changed. They 
 over-feed, and in consequence their health is more or less deranged ; they 
 tramp around in every nook and corner of the field in search of dainties- 
 become restless and discontented, and not unfrequently some of the more 
 active and enterprising members of the herd, try fences and make excursions 
 mto fields of grain and prohibited crops. I have seen herds with one or two 
 unruly disposed members, though perfectly quiet and orderly while confined 
 to one pasture, become so restless and discontented from a change to new 
 fields, as to be exceedingly troublesome and cause serious losses. 
 
 There are other reasons. The pastures will not be so uniformly cropped ; 
 large portions will get a rank growth, be rejected by stock, and therefore 
 afl^ord less nutritious food through the season, than when used as one 
 pasture. 
 
 FKESH PASTURES PRODUCE SCOURS. 
 
 Fresh pastures are more apt to produce scours, as is well known 
 derangn)g the appetite and health to a greater extent than when confined to 
 one field. The argument generally used in favor of two pastures, is that the 
 daily trampmg of the cattle on the one pasture renders, the food less fresh' 
 and palatable, and that the alternate pastures obviate this, giving time for 
 grass to grow, thus producing more food and better results. The conclusion 
 arrived at, is not true in fact. Stock when turned into a new pasture do not 
 rest till they have roamed over and examined every part of it, and will tramp 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 31 
 
 down, soil, and destroy more food than if the same land was in one pastm-e, 
 thereby really affording or rendering available to the herd, a less amount oi 
 nutritious food during the season. Cattle, it is true, like 
 
 A CHANGE OF FOOD, 
 
 but this change should exist in the varieties of grass in the same pasture, and 
 not in different . fields. Of course the aftermath and gleanings from grain 
 fields are to be consumed by stock in fall, as deemed expedient, but the sum- 
 mer pasture should be one field, as productive of more milk with less trouble, 
 expense and loss. 
 
 PASTURES SHOULD NOT BE OYBRSTOCKED. 
 
 Pastures, it is proper to say, should not be overstocked — the supply of food 
 must be abundant, otherwise serious losses will be incurred. There is nothing 
 gained by stocking clear up to, or a little beyond, the full capacity of the land, 
 and trusting to an extraordinary good growing season to bring the animals 
 through. 
 
 Much milk will require a proportionate amount of food, and I have yet to 
 see the cow miserly kept on scanty fare, that can turn that fare into a large 
 dairy product. The rule should be, the largest quantity and best quality of 
 dairy products per cow, and not the largest number of cows without thought 
 or care as to the respective quantity or quality of milk from each. 
 
 DAIRY BARNS. 
 
 An important requisite in Dairy farming is to have a convenient barn. 
 Indeed, of so much practical importance is this, that I must treat the subject 
 at considerable length. A handy barn for a grain farm is a very different 
 structure from what is needed on a dairy farm. Dairymen of experience 
 affirm that a convenient dairy barn on a farm carrying fifty cows, will save an 
 annual expense in labor of at least |200 over the structures in use twenty 
 years ago, and, indeed, over those Avhich are largely in use at the present day. 
 
 THE MODERN DAIRY BARN 
 
 began to be erected in the old dairy districts of New York about ten years 
 ago, and it is a matter of surprise that a people who have been sixty years 
 engaged in dairying as a specialty, should have neglected this branch of their ' 
 art so long. 
 
 The modern dairy barn is roomy, and arranged, if possible, so that one 
 building or a structure under one roof, will meet all the wants of the farm. 
 This is easily done, when a side hill and running water are convenient to the 
 farm house. In such cases the stables for milking are those in which the 
 cows are kept in winter. This arrangement saves the cost of a special 
 building, or " milk barn " as it is termed. 
 
 The stables should not only be well lighted, but arranged with wide drop 
 doors at the sides, so that for summer use you can expose a skeleton or section 
 of the frame, admitting into the stable a flood of light and pure air. 
 
32 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 manure cellars. 
 
 There has been great difference of oj)inion whether manure cellars under 
 the stable are injurious or otherwise. 
 
 Many barns in Central New York are constructed with the cellars unde: 
 the stables, and in no instance where they have been properly ventilated, an 
 absorbents used for taking up the liquid manure, have I heard of an 
 bad effect on account of the manures, &c. The stock is quite as healthy, 
 and appears as thrifty at all seasons, as in barns without manure cellars. 
 I have examined manure cellars under stables, at different seasons of the 
 year. Some of them were badly ventilated, and were foul with gases emana- 
 ting from the decomposing mass of excrement which had been dumped with- 
 out absorbents. Such a condition of things must be a source of disease t 
 stock and cannot be recommended. In others, Avhere ventilation has been 
 secured, and absorbents, such as muck, dry earth or sawdust freely used, the 
 atmosphere was comparatively pure, and free from any disagreeable odor. 
 Generally those who have manure cellars under their stables are pleased with 
 them. They save a great deal of labor in the course of a year, and, with the 
 precautions I have named as regards ventilation and absorbents, have not 
 been found to be objectionable, 
 
 A CONVENIENT DAIRY BARN. 
 
 I shall describe somewhat minutely what has been found to be a conven- 
 ient dairy barn having capacity for fifty cows. It has a basement or manure 
 cellar under the stables. The barn stands on the edge of a knoll or side hill, 
 and is one hundred feet long by forty feet wide, and has a stone basement 
 nine feet high. The bottom of this basement, which is used for manures, is 
 paved with cobble stones, pounded down in the earth, and then cemented 
 with water lime and sand, in the proportion of one part lime to aine parts 
 sand. This forms a perfectly tight bottom and is the receptacle for all liquid 
 and solid excrement from stock in the stables above. 
 
 The basement is well lighted and ventilated, and teams can be driven 
 through the central alley for removing manures. Muck and dry earth are 
 hauled into the central alley, during odd spells in summer, to be used from 
 time to time as absorbents, and when thus mingled with the liquid and solid 
 excrement a large quantity of fertilizing material is made. 
 
 THE STABLES 
 
 are on the sides of the building, immediately above the basement, and are 
 eleven feet wide back of the feed box, and the cows are fed from the central 
 alley, which is fourteen feet wide. The cows stand four feet apart, or rather 
 they occupy that space, and are fastened with double chains two feet long, 
 attached to a ring sliding on a post. Between each cow there is a plank 
 partition extending into the central alley, the width of the feed box, and back 
 intS the stable some two feet. This plan gives the cow more liberty and ease 
 of position than stanchions, and some prefer these fastenings to stanchions on 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 33 
 
 this account. Back of the cows and along the outside of the stables, the 
 floor is raised some five inches higher than the drop where the cows stand, 
 and there is an open space between the two floors Avhere the manures are 
 pushed into the cellar below. This it will be seen can be done very rapidly. 
 (Some use a trap.) The stables are well lighted and ventilated. Above 
 the cows are 
 
 THE DRIVE FLOORS AND BATS 
 
 where the teams deposit the hay and fodder. The loads come in at one end 
 and go out at the side on the other end, so that several teams can be in the 
 barn and the work of loading and unloading go on at the same time, and not 
 interfere with each other. On one side of the barn are the 
 
 HORSE STABLES AND CARRIAGE HOUSE, 
 
 communicating with the upper or drive floor, and all arranged in the most 
 perfect manner as to granary and the means of dropping hay for feeding 
 horses and cattle. 
 
 In the upper loft over the drive way, a flooring is arranged with open 
 spaces, where a considerable quantity of corn in the stalk may be stored until 
 such time as there is leisure for husking. The leading feature of the barns 
 now being buiit in the dairy region is to have the drive floors and bays 
 above the stables. When the site is suitable some prefer to have the drive 
 way near the peak or top of the barn. The hay may then be rolled from the 
 load on either side into the bays. 
 
 In feeding, — the stables being below, — the fodder is thrown downwards, 
 either through openings arranged in the bays, or in the central alley, accord- 
 ing to the manner in which the cows are placed in the stables. 
 
 A portion of the basement is partitioned off" for roots, which at the time 
 of harvesting are dumped through a trap on the feed floor. 
 
 Not far from the southern shores of Oneida Lake, and at the geograi^hical 
 center of the State of New York, a peculiar religious sect, numbering about 
 two hundi'ed votaries, has established itself upon a few hundred acres of 
 choice land. They do almost everything among themselves, and conduct a 
 system of mechanical oj)erations and high farming. They have men of science 
 and education among them, and their workshops and farming operations are, 
 in many respects, models of excellence. 
 
 AK EXCELLENT DAIRY BARN. 
 
 A few years since, they sent their architects through the country to exam- 
 ine all the best barns that could be found, and from a large number of plans 
 they modeled and erected a dairy barn of the following description : — It is 
 one hundred and thirty-five feet long by seventy feet broad, and has a hip 
 roof. The structure is of wood, resting on a stone basement nine feet high. 
 The basement is divided by walls into spaces for the manures, the root cellar, 
 land bottom of the bays. There are three drive ways or barn floors running 
 
34 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 across the building, with bays thirty feet square on either side of the central 
 drive way, so that the teams can deliver their loads from the three floors. 
 The stables run all around the outside, except in the spaces taken up by the 
 drive way. The stables on the ends hold twenty cows each, and the four 
 stables on the sides, between the floors, have nine stalls each, so that seventy- 
 six animals can be housed at one time. 
 
 Under the middle drive way is the root cellar, where roots are dumped by 
 opening a trap door ; on the other floor are traps for dropping muck, or other 
 absorbents into the manure cellar. The drive ways are fourteen feet wide, and 
 the width of the stables sixteen feet, including the mangers, which are three 
 feet. Back of the cows there is a manure sink two feet wide, and from this 
 to the outside of the building is a space of five feet. There are four 
 
 VENTILATORS 
 
 that run from top to bottom so as to give good ventilation. Saw-dust and 
 
 MiEADO^y BROOK K^RM: D^IRY B-A.RlNr-KLK'V^TION". 
 
 cxxi straw are used for bedding stock. Of the straw, about four hundred 
 loads are used for the purpose during winter. The hay is cut into chafl", and at 
 certain seasons, when cows are in milk, it is mingled with meal or bran before 
 being fed. When bran is used the coavs get each about four quarts per day. 
 The root cellar holds about four thousand bushels, and the roots are fed 
 during winter. It is the only barn I have seen arranged on this plan. The 
 bays for hay extending into the basement seems to me to be objectionable. 
 The arrangement for storing both hay and grain, and the feeding of stock, 
 appear to be convenient. 
 
 MEADOW BROOK FARM DAIRY BARN. 
 
 By the politeness of Mr. Geo, S. Bowen, of Chicago, 111., I am in re- 
 ceipt of the accompanying cuts showing elevation and plan of Dairy Barn 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 35 
 
 LO'WTEB FLOOS. 
 
 erected in 1870 upon his Meadow Brook Farm, near Elgin III, the following 
 
 description being taken from the 
 
 Western Rural : 
 
 " The barn is L-shaped, the main 
 
 being 96x30, the wing 40x36 ; its 
 
 hight from the ground to the 
 
 ridge-pole is forty-two feet. The 
 
 lower floor, as will be seen by the 
 
 accompanying diagram, is devoted 
 
 to stalls, milk-room, water-trough, 
 
 root-cellar, etc. 
 
 " Mr. B. has contrived to secure 
 
 ample and ready ventilation — a 
 
 point which is very often considered 
 
 too lightly in the construction of 
 
 buildings of this character. The 
 
 stalls occupy portions of both the 
 
 main part and the wing, and will ac- 
 commodate sixty-three cattle, with 
 
 single feed boxes for each, and 
 
 long, hinged supply lines immediately in front. There is a space of seven 
 
 feet from the droB (or receptacle for the droppings) to the windows, which 
 
 are large — their size admitting of 
 increased ventilation during hot 
 weather, and facilitating the re- 
 moval of excremental matter. 
 
 " A wind-mill pitmp is to be sup- 
 plied to raise water into a reservoir 
 so constructed as to fill the cooling 
 vats in the milk-room, and to pro- 
 vide water for the stock during 
 stormy weather. 
 
 " A protected flight of stairs leads 
 from the lower to the upper floor, 
 where there is a large room for 
 storing farming utensils ; a grain- 
 bin, 36x20 ; two bays for hay, one 
 76x12 and the other 36x12. The 
 entrance floors are seventy-six and 
 thirty-six feet, respectively, and 
 reached by bridges or causeways 
 leading from the ground. There 
 
 are eight large sliding double doors, all moving on rollers, and four hay 
 
 slides to get whatever is needed to the lower floor. Successive flights of 
 
 UPPER FLOOR. 
 
36 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 stairs communicate with a large cupola. The cost of this barn was three 
 thousand six hundred dollars. There were used in its construction one hun 
 dred and ten thousand feet of lumber, fifty-five thousand shingles, and twc 
 thousand eight hundred pounds of nails." 
 
 ANOTHEE STYLE OF BAEIST 
 
 is used by those who have a prejudice against manure cellars. It is built witi 
 or without a basement. The cows stand in two rows opposite each other^ 
 with their heads facing the outside of the building, and the space in the center 
 between the cows and the drop is wide enough for a drive way for hauling 
 out the manures. The cows enter at the central door, and take their place 
 on either side. Absorbents may be used for taking up the liquid manures, 
 and every day, when trie stables are to be cleaned, it is piled upon a sled or 
 wagon and taken directly to a field where it is to be used. 
 
 HOW MANUEES AEE MATSTAGED. 
 
 Haeeis Lewis, Herkimer Co., N. Y., has been quite successful in managing 
 the manures from his stock, from a barn of this description. He uses saw-dust 
 for absorbing the liquid manures in his stables, at the rate of about sixty 
 bushels per week for a stock of fifty cows. The liquid manure thus absorbed 
 is hauled from day to day to a meadow lot containing twenty-five acres. It is 
 spread as evenly as possible with a shovel or fork, and in the spring it is 
 brushed, so as to be completely broken up and distributed in fine particles. 
 By underdraining, and the use of this top dressing, he has been able to bring 
 a piece of ground containing twenty-five acres, originally of only ordinary 
 fertility, to a condition in which the annual yield of hay is sufficient for the 
 winter keep of fifty cows. 
 
 THE CONVENIENCE OF MANUEE CELLAES. 
 
 Buildings of this kind, however, are much less convenient than those pro- 
 vided with manure cellars, as there are many days in winter when it is stormy, 
 and inconvenient and difficult to haul manure from the stables. Besides, if 
 they are to be applied upon grounds that are somewhat descending, a consid- 
 erable portion of the manure is liable to be washed away as the snow goes oflf 
 in the spring. With the cellar, on the contrary, advantage can be taken of 
 the time in applying manures, and practically they are found to be productive 
 of the best results. 
 
 BAENS FOE CUTTING AND STEAMING FODDEE. 
 
 I have yet another barn to describe, adapted to a level surface, and where 
 the straw from considerable quantities of grain is to be cut and steamed for 
 cattle food. This barn was erected for Mr. Teuesdale, an extensive dairy 
 farmer in Wisconsin, who spared no expense in obtaining the best models and 
 architects, and who is said to have the most perfect dairy barn in that State. 
 I visited this establishment in 1869, and give a sketch of it from my notes : 
 
 The barn is an immense structure, being in outline the form of a T. The 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 37 
 
 top of the T is one hundred and twelve feet long by forty feet wide, with 
 twenty-two feet posts. The whole stands upon a heavy wall, which forms a 
 cellar under the building for manures. The part representing the top of the 
 T is used for threshing, shelling corn, grinding the grain and cutting the fod- 
 der. Immediately to the right, but separated only by a short platform, is 
 another building in which all the fodder is cooked by steam. The cattle 
 stand in the body of the T, in two long stables at the sides, with their heads 
 facing each other, the central alley being sixteen feet wide. The stables are 
 nine feet wide, and the platform on which the cows stand is four feet nine 
 inches to the stanchions,, leaving a ditch one foot wide and a space of three 
 feet back of the ditch to the sides of the building. The stanchions are three 
 feet three inches apart from center to center, and the platform on which the 
 cows stand is raised so as to give a drojD of nine inches. Of this drop a 
 space of five inches is left open, through which the manure is pushed to the 
 
 I cellar below. The stables will accommodate one hundred and forty cows — 
 seventy animals on a side. The second story (above the cows) is used for 
 
 ( oats, grain unthreshed, and hay, the hay being stored in the lower end, in a 
 section by itself, for spring use. 
 
 THE THRESHING 
 
 , is done as the straw and grain are needed for the stock. The threshing 
 t machine and straw cutter are in the second story of the top of the T. The 
 ; grain in bundles or loose, is thrown on a car, which runs on rails through 
 I the different sections over the cows, and a load is drawn up to the machine 
 i by a simple arrangement operated by power from the engine. The various 
 machines are then set in motion, and as the straw is threshed it passes to the 
 
 ■ straw cutter, and falls chopped in pieces, to a large bin below. The chaff is 
 blown out of the grain and falls into the same bin, while the grain passes on 
 and falls into a fan mill below, where it is cleaned, and goes into a bin. 
 
 i Everything is arranged so conveniently, that but little labor or time is em- 
 I ployed to do this part of the work, from time to time as needed. 
 
 PREPARING THE FEED. 
 
 The corn sheller and mill for grinding the grain are below with the grain bins 
 
 opposite. Oats and corn are mingled together in the proportion of two-thirds 
 
 of the former to one-third of the latter, when it is carried by machinery above, 
 
 t falls into the hopper, and is ground and passed to its appropriate bin. There 
 
 I are two steam boxes sixteen feet long, five feet wide and five feet deep. They 
 
 ■ stand upon cars, with a track leading through the central alley of the stable 
 : to the steaming room. These cars are run up to the straw and meal bins, and 
 lithe boxes filled. First the straw is filled into the steam box a foot deep, then 
 
 one bushel of the mixture of oats and corn meal is sprinkled on, and so alter- 
 mately with straw and meal until the box is filled, which gives four bushels of 
 
 II meal to the box. Then the boxes are run into the steam room and the con- 
 tents wet down by pumping water through a hose. 
 
38 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 At the bottom of the boxes are perforated iron j)ipes running three times 
 lengthwise across the bottom, and arranged at one end so as to be locked on 
 to the steam pipes connected with the engine. The cover is then fitted to the 
 box, and the steam let on. In about half an hour the contents of the box 
 are broken down and cooked. 
 
 FEEDING THE COWS. 
 
 The food steamed in the morning is thrown out into the car and left to 
 cool till evening, when it is just pleasantly warm to the hand, and is ready for 
 feeding. The night's steaming is treated in the same way for the morning 
 feed. The cars are run along the central alley, between the heads .of the 
 cows, and each animal receives her share in the manger before her. The two 
 boxes of steamed food are sviificient for one feed of one hundred and forty 
 head of cattle. It will be seen, therefore, that in addition to the straw, the 
 one hundred and forty head get sixteen bushels of meal, or about three and 
 one-half quarts of meal each per day. The cows are very fond of their 
 rations, and under this treatment were looking sleek and in good condition. 
 
 GAIN BY STEAMING FOOD. 
 
 Mr. Truesdale's estimate shows about twenty-five per cent gain in cost of 
 feed over the ordinary method where hay is used, to say nothing of the im- 
 portant saving made in converting his straw into available manures.. The 
 stock is wintered in this manner, and when the cows begin to come in milk, 
 he commences feeding hay. The stables, I should have remarked, are well 
 lighted, and ample provision is made for ventilation, so that the cows have 
 really a luxurious abode in their winter quarters. 
 
 ' THE MANURE CELLAR 
 
 is immediately under the cow stables, and is well lighted and ventilated. In 
 the fall of the yeai*, or during summer when work is not pressing, muck, 
 which has been thrown out of the ditches and dried, is carted into the cellar 
 and piled in the central alley as an absorbent. From five hundred to eight 
 hundred loads of muck are thus stored annually. The liquid and solid excre- 
 ment from the cows goes down into the cellar through the opening in the 
 stable floor as I have described, and every day or two the muck from the 
 central alley is thrown upon the dung until all moisture is absorbed. 
 
 HOW THE MANURE IS USED. 
 
 Mr. Truesdale's system here is, without doubt, a good one, and the large 
 quantities of manure annually made, must in a few years give ample returns 
 upon the farm. A portion of this manure is used for top-dressing meadows 
 and newly seeded lands, in the fall, at the rate of about twenty loads to the 
 acre, evenly spread and brushed down fine, and about fifty acres are annually 
 treated in this way. 
 
 Under this arrangement of barns and machinery, two men will take care 
 of one hundred and forty head of cattle, steaming the food, cleaning the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 39 
 
 stables, and doing all the work necessary for the care aud comfort of the ani- 
 mals. There are two open yards, one on each side of the barn, where the cows 
 from each stable are provided with water, which is pumped from a never- 
 failing well. These yards are partly planked, and are to be wholly planked 
 the coming year. 
 
 BARN" WITH FOUR ROWS OF STABLES. 
 
 An Ohio correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends the following 
 description of a Dairy Barn : 
 
 Its distinguishing characteristics are a free use of tram-ways, and a separ- 
 ate building for the factory operations incident to feeding a large drove of 
 cattle, and for the storage of grain and feed. 
 
 The size of the main barn is 96 by 56 feet; of factory, 24 by 20. The 
 barn will hold one hundred and twenty cattle, and hogs ad libitum. The 
 basement story, or hog and manure cellar, is not shown in the elevation. It 
 is divided into pens for hogs, on either side of a central alley. The base- 
 ment story of factory contains the steam engine and a continuation of the 
 tram-way which passes through the hog cellar. 
 
 The second floor of the barn contains the cattle stables, arranged for four 
 rows of cattle, each double row facing a feeding alley in which there is a 
 tram-way for the easy conveyance of the cooked food. The second story of 
 the factory is for the grist mill, cider mill, saw frame, or any other machinery 
 it is desired to use. A belt also runs to a separate shaft in the main barn, for 
 turning the hay cutter, threshing machine and corn sheller. 
 
 The third story of the barn contains the barn floor, with large bays on 
 either side. Also a room for cutting hay and a bin for the cut feed. A tram- 
 way and hay car are provided for the easy handling of the hay and fodder used. 
 The corresponding story of the factory is for the reception of grain, and of 
 meal from the grist mill below. The necessary spouts and elevators are pro- 
 vided, as common in grist mills. In the fourth story of factory is stored the 
 bran or mill feed. 
 
 On a level with the purline plates is laid another floor for corn in the ear. 
 This floor is also provided with tram-way and car. The stables are provided 
 with manure traps, one foot by twelve, running the whole length of the 
 stalls, and hung upon hinges. These render the cleaning of the stalls an 
 easy task. If more accommodations are required, the length of the barn 
 might be increased. One correspondent says : — I believe in this barn, three 
 men might take care of one hundred and twenty cattle and five hundred hogs, 
 including the running of the engine and the machinery. As to cost, no 
 estimate can be made, since lumber and stone or brick vary so much in price 
 in difierent localities. Where both are abundant, the cost would not exceed 
 four thousand dollars. 
 
 The accompanying plans will, perhaps, the better enable the reader to 
 comprehend the arrangement of tlie barn. 
 
 In Fig. 1 is shown the plan of the stables on the second floor, S, S, S, S, 
 
40 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 stalls for cattle ; M, M, M, M, mangers ; A, A, alleys in front of cattle ; Mt, 
 Mt, Mt, manure traps; t, ?, tramways; St, switch track between alleys; 
 
 machinery room is shown at end of elevation. Fig. 2, S, steam engine; 
 ^, tramway; B, steam box. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 41 
 
 Fig. 3 shows a sectional view of barn and factory. A, first story; B, 
 second story ; C, third story of barn ; D, D, hay bays ; E, corn loft ; e, e, 
 (dotted line) ground level ; a, first, &, second, c, third, and £?, fourth stories 
 of factory. 
 
 PRACTICAL BEAKIjSTG OF MANURE CELLARS. 
 
 I have given some of the leading features esteemed requisite in the con- 
 
 iiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiilliillllllllllllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilillllillllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^^ llliilillilii 
 
 Fig. 1— Second Floor op Stock Barn. 
 
 fVp 
 
 Fig. 3.— Sectionai- View op Barn and Factory. Fig. 2.— Engine Room. 
 
 struction of a convenient dairy barn. Of course the size of building and m- 
 ternal arrangements may be modified to suit the wants of particular cases ; 
 but I regard the manure cellars underneath the stable of great practical utility, 
 I have seen such rapid and large improvement in dairy lands from its adoption, 
 
42 Pb ACTIO AL Daisy Husbandry. 
 
 that it has commended itself strongly to favor. I know of farms that were 
 quite ordinary a few years ago that are now made to carry an extraordinarily 
 large stock, and I have repeatedly asked the occupants in what manner they 
 h^ve been enabled to produce crops sufficient to supply food for an extra 
 number of cows upon the farm (sometimes double the number that are kept 
 on adjoining farms of the same size,) and the reply has been that the result 
 was accomplished through the manure cellar. Before the manure cellar was 
 inaugurated they say :— " Do the best we could, much of the manure went to 
 waste. The quantity at most was small compared with what is at present 
 turned oif, and yet the labor expended under the old system was vastly greater 
 than now. I do not say but there are other methods for producing the same 
 results, but they cost more, are less convenient, and from the liability of neg- 
 lect are not so likely to prove successful. 
 
 THE DAIRY HOUSE. 
 
 The question is often asked whether under our factory system a dairy 
 house is required on the farm. I should advise such a structure, though it 
 need not be so expensive and elaborate as is sometimes seen \mder the old 
 system of family dairying. The building should be arranged and fitted up 
 for both butter and cheese manufacture. The reason for the erection of such 
 a structure even in cases where the milk is to be carried to a factory will, from 
 a moment's reflection, be obvious. 
 
 In the first place, the factories open and close operations at stated periods, 
 and during the time they are not working considerable quantities of milk 
 must be cared for and utilized at the farm. With no provision for the care 
 and manufacture of such milk, the annual loss from waste will soon amount 
 to more than the cost of building and fixtures, to say nothing of the worry 
 and trouble in trying to utilize the milk without any conveniences. 
 
 Again, occasions occur when it is desirable to make up the milk on the 
 farm to secure the butter or cheese for family use. Possibly, from time to 
 time some accident may happen which would exclude a batch of milk from the 
 factory, and in such cases it may often be worked up on the farm without 
 material loss. Cases not unfrequently occur where a factory is badly managed, 
 where the cheese or butter maker is incompetent, and while such a condition 
 of things remains, or during the time it may take to make a change of manu- 
 tacturers, it will be desirable to hold the milk at the farm. There are a 
 variety of circumstances constantly occurring in neighborhoods where fac- 
 tories exist which make the necessity for a dairy house imperative, if the 
 dairymen would avoid losses, and I therefore think it economy to provide such 
 structures, and I hold that they belong to good dairy management. 
 
 what is a proper dairy house, 
 and how should it be located ? For convenience it should be situated near 
 the milking stables, but out of the way of odors and gases arising from the 
 decomposition of manures, since milk absorbs these with great facility, result- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 43 
 
 ing in injury to the product. Where side-hills are convenient to the other 
 buildings they afford advantageous situations for placing the dairy house. In 
 such cases the lower story of the house, if built of stone, Avill help to secure 
 a low and even temperature for the milk room. A building twenty-five feet by 
 thirty feet, a story and a half high, would be ample for a dairy of forty cows. 
 The lower part should be divided into two departments, one for butter 
 manufacture and the other for cheese. The two departments should be ar- 
 ranged so as to afford easy communication, the one with the other. If 
 
 COLD SPRIK^G WATER 
 
 can be conducted into the house the butter department should be arranged 
 with water tanks sunk into the earth to hold water twenty inches deep. The 
 tanks may be made of wood, but are better if of stone, well cemented. Pipes 
 leading from the tank or tanks through the wall on the lower side of the 
 building will conduct off surplus water. These tanks are tor holding the cans 
 of milk for obtaining cream and will be more fully described hereafter under 
 the head of butter manufacture. There should also be 
 
 A SMALL BUTTER CELLAR 
 
 connected with this department by partitioning off a part of the room next 
 the bank or hillside. The milk room should have windows at the upper part 
 or near the ceiling protected with gaiize wire, so as to be used for ventilation. 
 The floor of 
 
 THE CHEESE MAKING ROOM 
 
 may be a step higher than the butter room, and should be provided with self- 
 heating vat for cheese making, pi-ess, hoops, and curd knife. The story above 
 should be in one room, and is to be employed for curing cheese. There 
 should be a large ventilator in the center, rising above the roof of the build- 
 ing and extending through the ceiling of the curing room provided with a 
 wicket by which the draught may be regulated or shut off as desired. About 
 the sides of the room, and even with the floor there should be openings nine 
 inches by twelve, arranged with wickets, so that air may be admitted in large 
 or small quantities, or closed off, as needed. With the small ventilators at 
 the sides and the large ventilator in the center 
 
 THE CURING ROOM 
 
 may be kept free from impurities and noxious gases, while the temperature to 
 sojne extent may be controlled in warm weather. The curing room should 
 be well lighted, as light operates beneficially in securing a fine flavor to the 
 cheese. 
 
 When the dairy house is to be located on a level surface, and stone is ex- 
 pensive or not convenient, the building may be wholly of wood, the bottom 
 room having double walls, and if possible should be shaded by trees. Instead 
 of tanks set in the ground the room may be provided with the 
 
 jenning's pans. 
 
 The pans consist of large shallow tin vats, set in Avooden vats, with spaces 
 
44 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 between for water. The pans are of various sizes and one pan is designed to liold 
 
 the entire mess of milk of the dairy at one milking. The water may be con- 
 veyed to the pans either by pipes leading from the penstock, or it may be 
 
Prac'iical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 45 
 
 drawn from the well. I have not proposed here to enter into minute descrip- 
 tions of dairy house and apparatus, as these more properly belong to the 
 topics in which butter and cheese manufacture are considered. But I have 
 given some of the leading features required in the construction of these 
 establishments, from which a general idea may be had. 
 
 DESCEIPTION AND PLAIS" OF A FARM DAIRY HOUSE. 
 
 In the plan of farm dairy house here presented, economy, simplicity and 
 convenience have been studied, together with the means of regulating tem- 
 perature in the cheese-curing room to some extent by the use of wickets and 
 ventilators. The design is for farms where cheese dairying is conducted as a 
 specialty and where from twenty-five to thirty-five cows are kept. 
 
 PIAZZA 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 1 
 
 
 pi 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 '^ 
 
 
 g 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 E 
 
 fl — 
 
 E 
 
 — 
 
 CURING ROOM 
 
 TABLE 
 
 BASEMENT, OB FEBST FLOOR. 
 
 W A W 
 
 SECOND FLOOR. 
 
 A building twenty-four feet by thirty feet, story and a-half high, will be 
 large enough for an ordinary sized dairy — say of the number of cows above- 
 named. Light is to be admitted only on the north and south sides, as less 
 liable to let rays of the sun fall on the cheese. The lower part is divided into 
 rooms for making cheese, twelve by fourteen feet ; store-room, ten by twelve 
 feet ; the balance, wood house, eighteen by twenty-four feet. If desired, a 
 portion of this latter room may be partitioned ofi", or nearly the whole of it 
 converted into a place for setting milk for butter during spring and fall. A 
 piazza runs along the sides of the store room and room for making cheese, 
 rendering these parts cooler in summer, and affording a convenient place for 
 drying aud sunning utensils. The upper part of building, the cheese-curing 
 room, twenty-four by thirty feet, eight feet high, studded, and lathed and 
 plastered. 
 
 A ventilator runs from ceiling in center of room above the roof, termi- 
 
46 ' Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 nating in usual form with arrangements at ceiling for closing draft entirely, 
 or conducting larger or smaller quantities of air as desired. Air is admitted 
 under the roof (where it joins the fides of the building) into the garret, so 
 that by opening slides inside the ventilator above the ceiling, a current of air 
 may be maintained in the garret part. Openings, with wickets, are placed at 
 the bottom of the room, and along and through the sides of the building, to the 
 open air — three or more on a side. These openings are ten inches by twenty 
 inches ; the wickets close tight or admit more or less air as desired at pleasure. 
 An ice reservoir or refrigerator on rollers can be set in the room in which 
 ice may be exposed if neccessary, in extremely hot weather. A good coal 
 stove, tables with he'tnlock bed-piece, for holding the cheese, thermometer and 
 platform scales. These are the general features of the dairy house suggestad. 
 The whole will be readily understood by the cuts : — O, O, openings with 
 Avickets ; C, chimney ; E, elevator ; D, door for delivering cheese ; A, alleys ; 
 W, windows ; V, vat and heater for making cheese ; P, cheese press ; E, ele- 
 vator for elevating cheese ; S, stairs ; P, cistern pump. 
 
 AN ABUNDANCE OF GOOD WATER. 
 
 In regard to water I start with the broad proposition universally recog- 
 nized by dairymen of long experience, both in this covmtry and in Europe 
 that dairying cannot be successfully conducted without an abundance of good 
 water to meet the daily wants of stock. Stagnant water, the water from 
 sloughs, mingled as it often is with a considerable per centage of vegetable 
 matter, even though it be abundant and easy of access, has an unfavorable 
 influence on the flavor of " dairy goods," and of itself precludes the dairy- 
 man from reaching the highest standard in his product. I have no space now 
 to discuss the physiological side of this question, but I state a fact abundantly 
 proved in practical experience. There is great difierence of opinion among 
 people who are not experts as to 
 
 WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD BUTTER AND GOOD CHEESE. 
 
 Persons whose tastes have been educated by long use of an inferior product 
 do not readily appreciate the imperfections existing in second class goods. 
 The great markets of the world are demanding better grades of food than they 
 did twenty or even ten years ago, and in no class of food is this more observ- 
 able than in dairy products. It is only the best article that really pays or is 
 made remunerative to the producer for a series of years. We must look then 
 to some of 
 
 THE LEADING REQUISITES TO SUCCESS. 
 
 To the dairyman an abundance of pure water, of easy access to stock, will 
 be found important. Many suppose that if there be water located on one part 
 of the farm, the other parts being dry, that will suffice for all practical pur- 
 poses in supplying the needs of dairy stock. This is a mistake, especially 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 47 
 
 where large herds are to be kept. Cows should at no time be compelled to 
 travel long distances to slake their thirst, since the greater exertion and labor 
 imposed must in proportion affect the quantity as well as the quality of their 
 milk. Instances have repeatedly come under my observation where springs 
 have failed and cows, in consequence, subjected to travel over a considerable 
 distance to gcit water. The milk not only fell off rapidly in quantity, but in 
 several Avays depreciated in quality, especially in hot weather, showing a ten- 
 dency to quick decomposition, and giving an inferior product when worked 
 into cheese. Water should be so conveniently situated in pastures that stock 
 will require no extra or special travel to obtain it, and it should be situated 
 at such points in the field that stock feeding over the ground naturally go 
 toward it, so that when a supply of food has been taken, the animals may 
 slake their thirst, lie down and quietly convert their food into milk. 
 
 MILCH STOCK AVERSE TO EXERCISE. 
 
 For it must be observed that milch stock are averse to any large amount 
 of exercise, and do not ordinarily care to take more than is necessary in sup- 
 plying themselves with food. . Give them plenty of food and an easy access 
 to water and they quickly fill themselves and spend most of their time at rest. 
 When water is situated in out of the way places on the farm, cows will often 
 go thirsty for a considerable portion of the day rather than make a special 
 journey to obtain it. This has been observed by all practical farmers, and yet 
 it is curious that many who are conversant with the fact neglect to take proper 
 advantage of this peculiarity in the habits of the animal. It is an important 
 object with the dairyman who desires the highest success, to j^i'omote as far 
 as may be (without resorting to artificial means,) the taking of an abundant 
 quantity of water by his herd. Milk cannot be made without water, and 
 when it is secreted largely, a large amount of water is absolutely required. 
 
 WATER IN MILK. 
 
 Milk of an average good quality contains in one hundred parts from 
 eighty-five to eighty-seven parts of water. Is it not surprising that any one 
 would suppose that a material like this could be of excellent quality when the 
 dilution is made up from pools of stagnant or putrid water, which would be 
 shunned by every intelligent mind as the very hot-beds of disease ? And yet 
 we often compel our animals to drink this character of water and expect them 
 to manufacture from it a pure, healthy milk. The subject demands attention 
 everywhere. Where there are an abundance of streams and springs of living 
 water they only require to be properly utilized, but where they fail the diffi- 
 culty can be obviated in the application of wind-power for raising water from 
 wells. 
 
 WIND-POWER FOR PUMPING WATER. 
 
 The modern windmill is a very different affair from the old cumbersome 
 and expensive power, which needed constant attention to make it serviceable. 
 
48 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The modern windmill regulates its own sails according to the force of the 
 wind. It is started or stopped with the greatest ease ; it is easily erected and 
 is not expensive, and therefore comes within the reach of any ordinary farmer. 
 Where pure water then may be had from wells, there can be no excuse for sub- 
 jecting the herd to the bad influences I have enumerated, and I am convinced 
 that one of the troubles complained of in the flavor of cheese is caused by 
 bad water, and the sooner dairy farmers look this thing fairly in the face and 
 set about correcting the evil, the sooner will they be on the right road to 
 success. It should be understood that bad water must always be an insepar- 
 able objection to the production of the nicer grades of butter and cheese. 
 Where good clean running water cannot be had, I should advise the digging 
 of wells and the use of wind-poAver for pumping water, at convenient points 
 over the pasture lands. Then large tanks or troughs should be provided 
 and arranged so that the surplus water may flow back into the well, as this 
 course keeps the water in motion and obviates, in a measure, the necessity of 
 extreme care and attention. 
 
 SHADES IN PASTTJEES. 
 
 There are those who advocate that shades in pastures are detrimental to 
 milch cows ; or rather, that shade trees, by affording a comfortable place for 
 cows to rest during hot weather, cause a decrease in their milk, and therefore 
 they are objectionable, by holding out inducements to and fostering habits of 
 laziness on the part of the cows. They reason that cows, to yield a large 
 quantity of milk, will require a proportionate amount of food ; that the longer 
 you can keep the cow feeding, the more grass she will store away to be manu- 
 factured into milk. In hot weather, they say, cows are not disposed to be 
 industrious, but lounge lazily under shade trees in the middle of the day, wast- 
 ing valuable time and, what is of more consequence, neglecting to keep the 
 milk-producing machinery in vigorous operation. If the pastures are deprived 
 of shade, they say the cows will find it uncomfortable resting in the hot sim, 
 will prefer to keep more upon their feet, and are therefore induced to spend 
 most of their time in feeding. Some dairymen therefore cut down and destroy 
 every vestige of shade in pastures, and are earnestly recommending this sys- 
 tem to the dairy public. I hear of some so eager in carrying out this princi- 
 ple that pains are taken to go out among the herd from time to time during 
 the day, starting the animals up from their resting places, and thus urging 
 them to the consumption of more food. 
 
 I do not approve of this system, nor do I believe that it has any advan- 
 tages on the score of economy. It certainly cannot commend itself for its 
 humanity, since the system is a species of cruelty and a disregard for the 
 comfort of creatures which, though dumb and devoid of reason, have the 
 more claim to our kind care and protection. > 
 
 THE FORCING SYSTEM. 
 
 It is undoubtedly true that the quantity of milk can be increased under a 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 49 
 
 forcing system of feeding if certain circumstances and conditions are ob- 
 served. And, first among these conditions is quietness and freedom from 
 anything like labor or extra exertion on the part of the cow. A certain 
 amount of exercise may be needed for health, but all exercise produces a 
 waste of the animal structure which must be repaired by food. The first 
 office of food is to support respiration and repair the natural waste of the 
 body, and if the waste is excessive, by reason of excessive labor, the food 
 will go first to supply this waste and after that for the production of milk. 
 Hence, those who study to get large results from milch cows are careful to 
 
 KEEP THE ANIMALS AS QUIET AS POSSIBLE, 
 
 avoiding excessive travel or labor, taking care that there be no disturbing 
 causes for excitement, such as fear, anxiety, or solicitude, for these waste food, 
 and check the secretion of milk to a much larger extent than most people 
 imagine. The jsrinciple is true, whether acknowledged or not, that the more 
 comfortable we make our milk stock the better will be the results. If during 
 the heat of the day cattle seek shade and lie down to rest, their quietness, com- 
 fort and enjoyment will add more to the milk-pail than food taken in discom- 
 fort and excessive exercise. We are presuming, of course, that the animals 
 are placed in pastures that afibrd an abundance of food, and pastures should 
 never be overstocked. In good pastures 
 
 IT IS NOT NECESSARY THAT COWS SHOULD BE CONSTANTLY FEEDING, 
 
 for we can see from the peculiar structure of their stomachs, that nature in- 
 tended a considerable portion of time to be spent at rest, that the process of 
 rumination and digestion be perfected. The first stomach seems to be simply 
 a receptacle for storing up a quantity of food to be used and enjoyed at leisure. 
 The food as it goes into the first stomach is very imperfectly masticated. 
 After having filled this receptacle the animal rests from her labors and is now 
 prepared to enjoy her food, which is thrown back in small quantities into the 
 mouth, where it is chewed, and then goes into the third and fourth stomachs 
 to be properly assimilated and digested. Hence rest is required ; and to de- 
 prive the animal of a comfortable resting-place or to drive her out in the hot 
 sun while in the act of rumination or masticating her food is not only cruel 
 but a piece of intolerable stupidity. 
 
 THE ONLY KEAL ARGUMENT AGAINST SHADE TREES 
 
 in pastures is, that the animals collect there and deposit manure where it is not 
 needed. The proper way to avoid this is to erect temporary shades, and they 
 can be removed from time to time to difierent parts of the field and thus be 
 made of double service — afibrding comfort to cattle and manuring the land. 
 I have seen this plan adopted with the best results ; the temporary shades 
 being placed on barren knolls and the poorest parts of the pastures, and these 
 places were thus brought into a high state of fertility. I believe in shade 
 
 4 
 
50 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 trees and shades in pastures, and am convinced from observation and expe- 
 rience that the herds do better with them than without them. It is an inhuman 
 practice to compel cattle to bear the intense rays of the sun during our hot 
 summers. They need protection at such seasons, and if man finds shade at 
 times 'not only grateful but necessary, I cannot see why the same rule may 
 not apply ia some degree to our domestic animals. It is true they may not 
 die from- exposure to the sun's rays, but if the hot, panting beasts could speak 
 we should learn that their health was not promoted by this exposure. 
 
MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS, 
 
 THE GRASS CROP IS, 
 
 without doubt, one of the most, if not the most important of any known to 
 aoriculture. It is the basis for all successful farming. It is the natural food 
 of our most useful animals, and without grass we should soon have no stock, 
 no manures, and scarcely any cultivated crop. The money value of the grass 
 crop in the United States is immense. Lewis F. Allen, in his work on 
 American cattle, estimates the number of neat cattle in the States and Terri- 
 tories in 1867 at 28,145,240 head, and he puts their value at a thousand mil- 
 lions of dollars. 
 
 That is only one item which may be credited to grass ; for if we add the 
 annual product of the ten millions of milch cows, together with the horses 
 and the sheep and wool of the country, we shall begin to appreciate how 
 much the nation owes to grass for its prosperity and wealth. Indeed, the 
 enormous value of this crop is comparatively overlooked by political econo- 
 mists in their calculations. 
 
 Before going into an examination of its pecuniary value let us look for a 
 moment at its value in the higher and more extensive relations it bears to the 
 comforts not only, but existence of the human race. 
 
 " All flesh is grass," say the Scriptures, but in a different and more ex- 
 tensive sense than is there conveyed is, truly, all flesh grass. Strike out of 
 existence the two great families of the bovine and wool-bearing animals, and 
 where would the human race be left ? To say nothing of the innumerable 
 comforts that spring from these two races of animals, such as wool, leather, 
 &c., for which various substitutes could be doubtless discovered, the very 
 existence of a large part of mankind is directly dependent upon them. 
 
 Despising all vegetarian theories, we only call upon the common sense of 
 mankind to prove that without meat, which is itself fed, nourished, and sus- 
 tained upon grass and grass alone, one-half the human race would perish at 
 once. Such is the value of grass aesthetically considered. But look at the 
 
 PECUNIARY VALUE OP GRASS, 
 
 and for this purpose we may refer to official statistics. In the report of the 
 Agricultural Department for 1864 the value of the hay crop that year in the 
 United States is put at $365,707,074. Commissioner Wells gives the hay 
 
52 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 ^ 
 
 crop of 1860 at 25,000,000 tons. He estimates its value at llOper ton, which 
 amounts to 1250,000,000. 
 
 But the value of pasturage must be equally as great, or greater. For 
 probably, taking the country together, the hay represents the maintenance 
 of the live stock for one-third only of the year, while pasturage embraces 
 tAVO-thirds. Then there is the labor of gathering the hay, which goes into its 
 value to offset a part of that. "We cannot estimate the value of the grass 
 crop for 1869, therefore, at less than 1700,000,000. Remember we speak here 
 of grass in its popular sense, as embracing the clovers, which, strictly speak- 
 ing, belong to the leguminous family of plants. 
 
 Now the cotton crop of 1869 was valued at $303,000,000, corn at |450,000,- 
 000, wheat, 1375,000,000, oats, $137,000,000, potatoes, $90,000,000. Who will 
 say in view of these facts that cotton, or corn, or wheat is king ? Among all 
 the productions of the earth grass, unpretentious though it be, is truly king. 
 It is the only truly indispensable product of the earth that nature herself takes 
 care shall not fail. But for dairy farmers — who owe so much to this crop, 
 and which if it failed but for a single season wide-spread ruin would stalk 
 abroad — its importance need not further be discussed. 
 
 The great question with dairy farmers to-day and at all times must be in 
 what way can grass be made to thrive and produce abundantly ? The ques- 
 tion is a broad one and I shall first touch upon the matter of pastures. 
 
 PASTUEES, OVERSTOCKING, ETC. 
 
 In the first place many pastures are habitually overstocked. By this prac- 
 tice the roots of grasses and the whole plants are kept so small that their growth 
 is feeble, and not one-half the feed is afforded that the land would produce if 
 stocked lightly a year or two and the grass allowed to get a good thrifty 
 start. But this is not the only disadvantage from overstocking. The feebly 
 growth of the grasses allows other plants to creep in, and the ground soon be- 
 comes overrun with weeds, which on account of their not being cropped by 
 stock, grow in great luxuriance, maturing their seed and thus impoverishing 
 the soil. 
 
 THE CUESE OF AMEEICAISr DAIEYIKG 
 
 to-day is weeds. When once they get full possession they become so formid- 
 able that the farmer is often disheartened and gives up their eradication. Many 
 farmers, too, have an erroneous notion in regard to the destruction of weeds 
 on grass lands. The impression often prevails that the only way of getting rid 
 of weeds is to break up and thoroughly cultivate the ground in hoed cro^^s. This 
 is not always convenient or even desirable, for in many cases it cannot be done 
 without breaking up the herd or dairy, while some uneven sui-faces cannot be 
 plowed. There is another way of killing weeds such as the daisy and that 
 class of plants, by the liberal use of manures and grass seeds. I have erad- 
 icated white daisy in several instances by simply applying farm yard dung and 
 gypsum, and strewing the ground with a heavy seeding of clover. Establish 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 63 
 
 your clover upon the soil and feed it until it is luxuriant and it destroys the 
 daisy and other weeds, by a system of plant-garroting, strangling and chok- 
 ing the life out of them. Then some weeds may be killed by frequent cutting • 
 and not allowing them to seed. It is always advisable to pull up or extermi- 
 nate bad weeds on their first appearance in pastures, and not allow them to 
 'spread. 
 
 The subject of pastures is of great importance to the dairy interest. To 
 know how to produce milk cheaply and of the best quality, is the underlying 
 stone of the dairyman's success. The points to be determined, it seems to 
 me, are these : 
 
 "WHAT KIND OF PASTUKES ARE BEST FOR THE DAIRY ? 
 
 Are they those which have been long in grass, or are they those which have 
 been recently plowed and re-seeded ? Can pastures be kept productive when 
 remaining long in grass ; or in beginning to fail, is it necessary to renew by 
 plowing and re-seeding ; and, finally, what are the cheapest as well as the best 
 modes of obtaining quality and productiveness of pasturage ? 
 
 In considering these questions it should be borne in mind that the subject 
 has reference to pastures for the production of milk, or those adapted to the 
 dairy. Soils vary in character, and when under the modifying influence of 
 climate and location, exhibit a peculiar fitness for certain plants ; thus we have 
 those best adapted to the production of grain, grass, fruit, or for those 
 abounding in textile fiber. 
 
 I have said you cannot profitably carry the daiiy upon the extensive plains 
 of the West and South-west. They lack water. Pastures become brown and 
 dried up long before midsummer ; nor will they hold grasses of any ap- 
 proved kind for any long time. We are not, therefore, to consider the treat- 
 ment of all pasture lands alike, but of those that are particularly well adapted 
 to grass, and which cover a considerable portion of the lands known as the 
 dairy region. 
 
 Now, what are we to do with pasture lands that begin to fail from over- 
 cropping, or from other causes ? Shall we plow them up, re-seed, or shall we 
 adopt some other mode of renovation ? I know of pastures that have been 
 in grass for sixty years and upwards, and to-day show no signs of failure, 
 Wherever I have been through the dairy region I find these pastures, and it 
 is the universal testimony of those who have them that they are yielding better 
 returns in milk than any recently re-seeded grounds. 
 
 I have seen old pastures plowed, re-seeded, and put in meadow, where the 
 annual crop for a few years was large, but when put back again in pastures 
 gave poor returns, and took years to obtain a nice, thick sod. This may not 
 always be the case, but it is frequent and, I am inclined to think, general. 
 
 It may be said that the fault lay in re-seeding ; that a greater variety of 
 seeds should have been sown, timothy, the clovers, orchard-grass, blue grass, 
 red top, &c. Our farmers generally, I believe, seed mostly with timothy, 
 
f 
 
 54 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 clover and red top, using the ground at first for meadows, and afterwards for 
 pastures. What we want (and it is usually that which obtains in old pastures) 
 ■ is a variety of grasses springing up in succession, and those that will bear 
 cropping, so that they will afibrd a good fresh bite from May till November. 
 
 OLD PASTURES 
 
 are generally filled with a variety of plants that are adapted to the soil, and 
 in plowing and taking ofi" grain crops and then re-seeding, the conditions or 
 elements of fertility are somewhat changed, so that anticipated results are not 
 always obtained. 
 
 In 1855 I plowed up an old meadow, about two acres of which was yield- 
 ing large crops of timothy and clover, but so situated in the field that the hay 
 crop could not be got off in time. I took from these two acres the first year 
 one hundred and eighty bushels of corn and the second year one hundred 
 bushels of barley, when the land was seeded down to timothy and clover. 
 For two or three years it did not produce satisfactorily, though receiving the 
 usual dressing of plaster. I also top-dressed it with stable manure — perhaps 
 twenty loads to the acre — but without getting the large crops of grass that I 
 did before re-seeding. Some mineral elements, therefore, I supposed to be 
 wanting — perhaps potash, and so I top-dressed with ashes and had no further 
 trouble. I have seen quite a number of old pastures that were yielding 
 tolerably well, plowed with somewhat similar results. The land would bear 
 abundant crops of grain, but grass failed to be enduring, or \vas less nutri- - 
 tious, and hence frequent plowings and re-seedings were resorted to. 
 
 OLD PASTURES FOR FATTENING STOCK. 
 
 I have visited many stock farms where men make a business of buying 
 cattle and fattening them for the market, and they say to me that they havp 
 never been able 'to fatten stock with that facility from grass raised on newly 
 seeded grounds as on that of those put down many years ago, or from pas- 
 tures that have never been broken up at all. Others make similar statements. 
 I shall not dispute the point that we may doctor up our lands to produce any 
 desired crop, but to do so is expensive, and will often require more science 
 and skill than are common in the country. 
 
 When nature furnishes the conditions for producing grasses that give the 
 best results in milk, and when these grasses become firmly established in the 
 soil, are we not pursuing a suicidal policy in destroying them, by over-cropping, 
 or by allowing weeds to smother and crowd them from the soil, under the impres- 
 sion that our pastures can be renewed at any time by plowing and re-seeding ? 
 
 Woiild it not be better and cheaper to exterminate weeds and give our 
 pastures some rest during the hot, dry weather of July and August, by feed- 
 ing sowed corn instead of cropping down to the roots and allowing the sun to 
 roast them oiit and destroy the plants ? It is the weeds, and over-cropping, 
 and unprotected covering of pasture lands in hot weather that are the fruitful 
 sources of failure of grass in pastures. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 65 
 
 Generally on rich soils, like those of Herkimer, IS". Y., the old dairy pastures 
 need but little, if any, organic matter ; the decay of roots and the droppings of 
 stock supply this matter in abundance, and hence the application of cheap min- 
 eral manures is that which is most needed. These, of course, can be readily 
 supplied , but if we are to plow ujd and take off grain crops, barn-yard manures 
 must be used, which are more expensive. 
 
 It is very unprofitable for the dairyman to break up lands that are yielding, 
 or can be made to yield readily, good crops of grass. Our most successful 
 dairymen in the Eastern and Middle States believe that grain can be pur- 
 chased from abroad cheaper than they can raise it. Grain raising, therefore, 
 with many is considered a matter of necessity rather than choice, but grass 
 fails and the lands are plowed and re-seeded. This may be well enough for 
 meadows, but is not so conveniently managed in pastures. 
 
 If a part of the pasture land begins to fail and it is designed to plow and 
 re-seed, the land must be fenced, which is expensive and often inconvenient. 
 But after getting it down to grass cattle cannot be turned in until the plants 
 become somewhat established, as they tread up the ground, pull up the grass 
 by the roots, and by midsummer there is a barren field. Again, to plow pas- 
 ture lands the herd must be reduced to meet the necessities of the case. This 
 is also an objectionable feature, and one that is always distasteful to the 
 dairyman. 
 
 TOP-DEESSING GRASS LANDS. 
 
 When grass utterly fails, plowing and re-seeding doubtless should be re- 
 sorted to ; but generally pasture lands may be kept permanently in grass by 
 giving them a little extra care and attention. If they begin to fail from over- 
 cropping or neglect, a judicious course of top-dressing and sowing seed will 
 be found preferable to the plow. Usually on the black, slate lands of Herki- 
 mer, plaster at the rate of one hundred to two hundred pounds to the acre 
 every alternate year will keep pasture lands in good rded 
 
122 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 by the blood vessels ; if the veins which surround the udder are large, m 
 winding and varicose, they show that the glands receive much blood, and 
 consequently that their functions are active and that milk is abundant. The 
 veins on the lateral parts of the belly are easily observed. These veins issue 
 from the udder in front, and at the outer angle, where they form, in good 
 cows, a considerable varicose swelling. They proceed toward the front part 
 of the body, forming angles more or less distinct, often divide toward their 
 anterior extremity, and sink into the body by several openings." 
 
 guenon's discoveries. 
 Some years ago Mons. Guenon, a Frenchman, made the discovery that 
 cows known as " good milkers," had certain characteristic mai'ks, shown in 
 the hair growing upon the udder, and upon and between the thighs above 
 the udder. Following out this peculiarity on diiferent animals, and noting 
 the variations in the marks on a great number of cows, from the best to the 
 most inferior milkers, he was enabled to establish his theory of the " milk 
 mirror " or " escutcheon," as it is termed. The basis of the theory may be 
 stated in general terms, as follows : — The hair on the buttocks of cattle grows 
 in two different directions, one portion pointing upward, and another part 
 downward, and thus producing a sort of fringe at the point of juncture. The 
 hair which has an upward tendency, has been termed the " escutcheon," the 
 larger the extent of the " escutcheon," according to M. GtiEisroN, the greater 
 the promise of milk, and also of the continuance even after the cow is in 
 calf. A cow may have a small escutcheon, and yet be a good milker ; but 
 observation leads to the conclusion, that if she possessed a more fully devel- 
 oped escutcheon, she would have been a better milker. In estimating the 
 extent of the escutcheon, allowance should be made for the folds in the skin, 
 otherwise a large escutcheon may be taken for a small one. Besides the 
 escutcheon there are tufts of hair which, when seen on the cow's udder, have 
 a certain degree of value. It may be observed here, that M. Guengjst's 
 theory is very elaborate, and cannot be relied upon in all its details, though 
 its general outlines or leading features, when taken in connection with the 
 shape and size of the cow, the texture of her skin, development of the 
 udder and milk vein, her disposition, endurance of constitution and other 
 points, give valuable aid in selecting good milkers. The principles laid down 
 by M. GuENON, are of considerable value as additional aids to other well 
 known points of a good cow, but they should not be relied upon singly and 
 alone, as indicating what is, and what is not, a good milker in every case. 
 I have known " experts " in the theory to be deceived, or make bad selections 
 in cows ; and I have been misled, relying too much upon the marks, or escutch- 
 eon, overlooking perhaps other essential considerations. 
 
 MAGNE's CLASSIFICATIOlSr OF COWS. 
 
 M. Magne, in his summary of M. Guenon's system, divides the cows 
 according to the quantity of milk which they give into four classes. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 
 
 123 
 
 PIEST-RATE COWS 
 
 are in that class, where both divisions of the lower escutcheon, the mam- 
 mary and the perineum, are large, continuous and uniform, and cover at least 
 a large portion of the perineum, the inside of the thighs and udder, and extend 
 moreover, with little or no break, more or less over the limbs, eliptical in shape, 
 and situated in the posterior face of the udder (Fig.1,2). But the cows may be 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 
 
 considered first-rate as milkers, if in the absence of a well developed escut- 
 cheon, they possess the following marks : — Veins of the perineum, varicose 
 and visible externally, or at least easily made so by compression at the base 
 of the perineum ; veins of the udder large and knotty ; milk veins frequently 
 double, and equal on both sides of the animal, and forming zigzag or wavy 
 lines within the belly. In addition to the marks shown by the veins and by 
 the escutcheon, the udder should be large and yielding, of homogeneous 
 texture, having a thin skin covered with fine hair, and yielding or shrinking 
 much under the process of milking. The chest should be ample, and a good 
 constitution displayed by regular appetite, and a disj)osition to drink much ; 
 the skin soft and supple ; hair short and soft ; head small ; horns fine and 
 smooth ; eye quick, but gentle ; fine neck and feminine air. 
 
 GOOD cows 
 are those that present the mammary portions of the escutcheon well devel- 
 oped ; but the perineum portion is either wanting or but partially developed. 
 (Figs. 3, 4). If the escutcheon is ever so well developed, the cows are 
 middling or bad, and do not belong to the first or second class, if the veins 
 
124 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 n 
 
 of the udder are not iu considerable numbers, and the milk veins under the 
 
 belly are not large. 
 
 MEDIOCRE COWS 
 
 possess the lower tuft of the escutcheon of the mammary part, little devel- 
 oped or indented, and the perineum portion irregular, narrow and contracted. 
 
 Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6. 
 
 (Figs. 5, 6). The perineum veins are not visible, and the veins of the belly 
 are small and straight. The head is large, skin stiff and thick, and the 
 animal is often peevish and restless. 
 
 BAD cows 
 
 possess escutcheons of very small extent (as shown in Figs. 7, 8) ; no veins are 
 visible in the udder or the perineum, and the milk veins are feebly developed. 
 The cows of this class are generally in good condition, and showy, taking 
 animals, the thighs are fleshy, the skin hard and thick, neck thick, head and 
 horns large, and the latter of large dimensions at the base." 
 
 I have perhaps quoted sufficient to show the general outlines of M.- Gue- 
 non's theory, without going into an elaborate essay on the subject, which 
 would need a large number of cuts to be clearly explained. But desirable as 
 it may be for the dairyman to have a good strain of milking stock, his success 
 will not depend altogether upon blood and skill in breeding. 
 
 THE FEEDIISTG AND MANAGEMENT 
 
 of his herd is an art which he will find is not to be learned in all its details 
 in a day. Some dairymen never can, or at least never do, learn it. During 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 125 
 
 the past ten years my business has called me very much among dairymen, 
 where almost every variety of management is adopted. I have seen men 
 with " scrub-herds," picked up here and there from the common stock of the 
 country, obtaining an enormous product. I know men who get from common 
 stock an annual yield of between six hundred and seven hundred pounds of 
 cheese to the cow, while perhaps a neighbor with much superior blooded 
 stock is unable to obtain anything like that product. How is this eifected ? 
 In the first place these men have a natural talent for selecting good cows, and 
 in the second place, they seem to be in perfect sympathy with the animals 
 under their control, attending to every detail for their comfort, providing 
 wholesome, nutritious food, janre water and pure air — everything of this kind 
 in abundance — keeping the animals properly sheltered from storms ; feeding 
 always with great regularity ; paying the most marked attention to the time 
 and manner of milking, and withal preserving a uniform kindness and gentle- 
 
 Fig. Y. 
 
 ness of treatment throughout every operation, a gentleness extending even 
 to the tone of the voice. It is really astonishing what a large difierence in 
 the yield of milk it makes by attending properly to a number of small things, 
 which would seem to many quite too insignificant to be worth observing. 
 Indeed, had I not seen these effects in numerous instances and in my own 
 experience, I could never have believed that their influence was so potent. 
 
 DRYING COWS OF THEIR MILK. 
 
 It would be impossible, in the scope of the present volume, to discuss all 
 the essential points of management for dairy stock. I can allude only to some 
 
126 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 of the leading requisites for success. I commence first with drying cows of 
 their milk at the end of the milking season. There is great difference in 
 opinion among farmers as to the time that a cow should go dry. Some 
 contend that no injury follows from milking cows so long as they will yield 
 milk, or up to within a week or two of the time at which they are to calve; 
 while others insist that at least from two to three months should be given a 
 cow to go dry. The latter is doubtless the 'more sensible and judicious course 
 to be adopted. A cow that is to "come in " during the early part of March, 
 should be allowed to go dry in December. She will then have time to recu- 
 perate and repair that waste which has been going on in the production of 
 milk, and in building up the structure of th: young which she carries. 
 
 It is a great drain on the system to continue the milking of a cow in 
 winter, and up to near the time of giving birth to her calf; and it is to be 
 doubted whether an animal treated in this way will yield any more, if as 
 much profit, as she would were the other course adopted. For it is not 
 altogether the quantity of milk that is to be looked after,. but its quality must 
 also be taken into account. Cows that are overtaxed and Aveak, yield milk 
 of poorer quality than when in vigorous liealth. And as to the question of 
 health, endurance and long life, all experience must show that the animals 
 wear out sooner, are more liable to disease and mishaps, under the "excessive 
 milking system," than when allowed a reasonable time for rest. 
 
 FALL AND WINTER FOOD FOR COWS. 
 
 But what makes the matter worse is, that many dairymen provide no feed 
 beyond hay to animals yielding milk during the winter. They are often 
 exposed to biting storms of rain, and sleet and piercing winds, all of which 
 operate in reducing the tone of health, and in undermining the constitution. 
 Hence we not unfrequently see cows wasting away with consumption, and 
 meeting with little accidents that prove fiital, because the cows have not the 
 vigor to resist them. Some cows, it is true, are inclined to give milk the 
 year round, and are difficult to be dried off. Such animals require some- 
 thing more than hay ; and an additional feed of ground grain (oat and corn- 
 meal mixed), should be commenced to be given in the fall, or at least as soon 
 as grass begins to depreciate in its nutritive quality. " Frozen grass and 
 moonshine," even though furnished in great abundance, are not the kind of 
 food on which deep milkers thrive and are invigorated. Cows, Avhether in 
 milk or dry, ought not to be allowed to fall off in flesh late in fall, or at 
 the commencement of winter. Thin cows are sensitive to cold, and require 
 more food for their winter keep than they do when commencing the season 
 with a good' coat of flesh. It is always less expensive to get stock in 
 condition during warm weather, or before winter sets in ; and it is therefore 
 very poor economy to allow deep milkers to run down thin late in fall, as 
 it often entails a good deal of careful nursing all the winter through, in order 
 to bring the animals safely over to grass. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 127 
 
 DRAWING ALL THE MILK FROM THE UDDER. 
 
 In drying cows of their milk, attention should be given that all the milk 
 be drawn from the udder at any one milking. Some are in the habit of 
 only partially drawing tne milk Irom time to time, when drying otf cows. It 
 is not a good practice, as the milk left in the udder becomes thick and putrid, 
 causing irritation and inflammation, and not unfrequently results in the loss 
 of a teat, or a portion of the bag, the next season. When cows are being 
 dried off, they should be examined every few days, and their udders completely 
 emptied of all accumulated milk ; and with cows supposed to be dry, their 
 teats should be tried at least once a week, all winter, to see if there be any 
 accumulation of milk. I have had serious losses from trusting to hired help 
 in this matter, and taking for granted that it had been properly attended to. 
 There is no safety unless the work is done under your own eye, or an exami- 
 nation made with your own hand. And it may be remarked that in the 
 management of dairy stock, nothing pays better than a frequent oversight of 
 the creatures by the master^ eye. Hands, however trusty, sometimes get 
 careless and indifferent in their care of stock, which can only be corrected by 
 constant oversight on the part of the proprietor. 
 
 SHELTER. 
 
 The importance of keeping stock well housed from storms during inclement 
 weather is often under-estimated by dairy farmers. Much more food is 
 required for stock exposed to cold, bleak winds and storms of sleet and snow, 
 than when properly sheltered. A certain amount of food is needed to keep 
 up animal heat, and it is much cheaper to supply this warmth in properly 
 constructed stables than to use extra fuel in the shape of hay and grain, to 
 keep up heat in the open yard. It has been estimated that an animal wintered 
 in the open yard, without any other shelter than that afforded by fences and 
 the sides of buildings, will consume a third more food than if properly 
 housed. And even wdth the additional food, the animal does not come out so 
 well in spring as the sheltered animal on less food. The principle is abund- 
 antly established, and ought to be recognized by every one who has had the 
 care of stock ; and yet, strange as it may seem, a large proportion of the 
 herds are left shivering in the cold from morning till night, under the impres- 
 sion, it would seem, that the stable can only be used economically during 
 night, or as a place in which to give food. Some insist that this exposure is 
 promotive of health, that it imparts vigor and tone to the system, and that 
 attention in housing from cold and storms during the day is a species of 
 pampering, highly injurious to the constitution and well-being of the animal. 
 Unfortunately for those Avho hold these opinions, the record of losses, of 
 accidents, of diseases incident to milch stock, are against the theory, and in 
 favor of those who are careful to shelter their stock from undue exposure. 
 
 A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF EXERCISE, 
 
 of sun and air, together with freedom from restraint, is without doubt condu- 
 cive to health, but the conditions must be favorable or such as the stock enjoy. 
 
128 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 An animal may be trained to endure cold, exposure and fatigue, and under 
 certain conditions, health may be maintained. But you cannot impose, at 
 the same time, the duties of maternity and the yielding of large quantities 
 of milk, because the waste of the system from these sources is so great as to 
 leave only a small amount of vitality to be employed in another direction. 
 This is particularly the case with milch cows, which, under a system of 
 domestication and breeding, have been educated into a " milky habit." Left 
 to themselves under the most favorable circumstances, in warm weather, they 
 like but little exercise compared with other classes of animals ; and when 
 required to exercise much, always fall off in milk. Warmth, comfort and 
 quietness are particularly essential to these animals, and any system of man- 
 agement opposed to these conditions, must in a measure, fail to be profit- 
 able to the dairyman. 
 
 DISEASES FOLLOAV EXPOSURE. 
 
 Cows that are in milk, or that have been milked late, are peculiarly 
 sensitive to cold, and they are frequently injured by being exposed to storms. 
 By getting wet, and becoming chilled, pxilmonary complaints and other 
 diseases are induced, and thus the farmer has a sick animal on his hands 
 which is a source of trouble and anxiety, and not unfrequently a total loss. 
 Many of the troubles that come upon cows at the period of calving, may be 
 traced directly to exposure during the winter ; and therefore on this account 
 alone will it pay the farmer to shelter his stock on the approach of storms, 
 either of wind, or snow, or rain. During those days in winter that are sunny 
 and wai-m, there may be no objection to allowing stock to run at large in the 
 yard a greater portion of the day ; but in extreme cold weather three-quarters 
 of an hour in the morning and the same length of time in the afternoon, to 
 slake their thirst at the trough, will give them all the exercise needed. The 
 remaining portion of the time they will be better in a warm, well-ventilated 
 stable, where they can quietly ruminate, without fear of being hooked and 
 driven about by master cows. 
 
 Any one who may have closely observed the habits of milch cows kept 
 out in the yard during extreme cold weather, it would seem, could not well 
 come to a different conclusion. The animals often stand about the buildings, 
 pinched up and shivering, the cold exciting to bad temper which they vent 
 upon the underlings, severely punishing them without cause, and many times 
 to the serious loss of the owner. At such times open the door of your 
 stable, and give them choice of entrance, or to remain without ; and if they 
 do not seek warm quai'ters they differ from any of the herds with which I 
 am acquainted. 
 
 THE LOSSES FROM NEGLECT 
 
 of, and inattention to stock during winter, are so large, that the subject 
 cannot be too urgently pressed upon the attention of dairymen. If farmers 
 will only take a coinmon-sense view of the question, and seriously count 
 the cost of the neglect to which I have referred, I am convinced they will 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 129 
 
 agree with me, that an important saving may be made by the proper sheltering 
 of stock during the rigors of winter. 
 
 CAKDING cows. — SCEATCHING POLES* 
 
 The practice of carding cows is of great importance in promoting, health, 
 and inci'easing the profits of the dairy. It not only improves the health of 
 stock, but leads to habits of neatness and cleanliness about the stables, that 
 have an important influence in securing good, clean milk, during the spring 
 months, I would furnish cattle with scratching posts in the yard,, and place 
 a pole firmly on posts with one end higher than the other,^ to accommodate 
 animals of different sizes, that they may pass under and scratch themselves 
 as desired. When these are erected, they will soon be found polished from 
 frequent use. 
 
 THE STOMACHS OF RUMINANTS PREPARING POOD FOE ASSIMILATION. 
 
 Before discussing questions in regard to feeding stock, it will be well, 
 perhaps, to allude briefly to the manner in which ruminants prepare their food 
 for assimilation. We quote from Dr. J. V. Smith : — " The cow requires 
 large quantities of food ; it remains in her stomach a long time, but the 
 relative amount of nutrition needed is small. A carnivorous animal has only 
 one stomach, and requires food more condensed and nutritious. Generally 
 animals that chew the cud have four stomachs, to fill which requires a great 
 bulk of food, and they must be filled or they will collapse,, and the opposite 
 walls will meet and destroy each other by their involuntary action. Hence, 
 when the food of such animals is too concentrated, health rapidly declines. 
 The slops of distillers do not sufficiently distend the stomach, and the milk 
 secreted from such diluted food, lacking the elements of nutrition, is doubt- 
 less the cause in cities of many diseases of children that partake of it. The 
 first stomach or paunch, may be called the receiving organ; it is very 
 capacious, and is divided into four compartments. The animal takes its food 
 at first with very imperfect mastication, storing it away in the rumen or 
 paunch, and at its leisure, converts the food into nutriment. It makes balls 
 of its food, by chewing it, then, one after another, lets them down into the 
 paunch till this organ may be compared to a basket filled with eggs. The 
 food becomes moistened, and is perpetually revolving through the different 
 compartments of the rumen, and undergoing important preparation for future 
 digestion. The muscular coats of the rumen consist of two layers, running 
 in different directions, and these muscles are the mechanical agents by which 
 the food is kept in motion, and by running in these different directions they 
 are enabled to act upon all the differently-formed cells of this enoi-mous 
 viscus. The animal when at rest, or on lying down, commences the process 
 of using the food. These animals like company, for they are social. A cow 
 generally will not give as much milk when solitary, as when associated with 
 her kind. Digestion now commences with a reversed action. One of the 
 balls comes back into the mouth, where it is chewed over and made into a 
 9 
 
130 Practical Dairy Husbandrj. 
 
 smaller ball, when it is discharged into a second stomach by another passage, 
 the entrance to which is under the animal's control. There a fluid is secreted, 
 and mixed with the food so received, and becomes of a yellow color. Here 
 the animal has no further control of the food. Thence the food drops into 
 the third stomach, which is smaller, and here the food, if not completely 
 broken down, is ground into pulp and mixed with a white fluid, when it drops 
 into the fourth stomach in a yellow, creamy stream. In this stomach it becomes 
 arranged in layers, and by the secretion of another and peculiar fluid, is 
 changed into chyme. This form it must of necessity assume before its nutri- 
 tive matter can be separated. The solution being complete, or so much so as 
 it can be rendered, the food passes through the lower orifice of the stomach 
 into the duodenum or first intestine, where its separation into the nutritive or 
 innutritive portions is efiected, and the former begins to be taken up by the 
 lacteals, and carried into the system." 
 
 IN SUCKING CALVES 
 
 this fourth stomach is the one that is active, and it is the one which is used 
 for rennet in coagulating milk for cheese making. In the earlier ages of the 
 world, when habits were simple and wants were few, the only cheese used 
 was obtained from this stomach of the animal. But afterward it was found^ 
 that the material of the stomach itself would curdle milk, and hence came 
 the manufacture of cheese. Thus we see the food of these animals must go 
 through the various wonderful processes described before it is fitted to furnish 
 nutriment. 
 
 BALLS OF HAIR 
 
 are sometimes found in the first stomach, from one inch to four inches in 
 diameter. In the spring cattle curry each other, to allay itching, by licking, 
 and in so doing they cannot get the hairs off their tongues, and are forced to 
 swallow them, when they naturally take the shape of a ball. The animal tries 
 to expel it, but the structure of the tongue prevents, when it is swallowed again, 
 and is kept going to and fro up and down many times. Of course such a 
 foreign substance will often produce disease, which is likely to have many 
 names and for which medicines totally inefficacious are prescribed. It is 
 obvious that, at the season named, it is very important in the treatment of 
 cattle to curry them with the curry comb, to prevent the formation of these 
 hair-balls. 
 
 cows IN CLOSE CONFINEMENT. 
 
 In the winter management of dairy stock it has been urged by some that 
 the animals winter best when kept confined to the stable most of the time. 
 Some dairymen scarcely allow the cows to leave the stable during the whole 
 winter. Each cow has a water box before her which is supplied with fresh 
 running water as desired. I have examined herds and taken the testimony 
 of the advocates of this system, and although cows kept in a well-lighted, 
 well-ventilated and cleanly stable, daily curried and bedded with straw 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 131 
 
 appear healthy, still I cannot approve of the system. Such cows may for 
 the time give more milk and lay on more flesh, but at the expense of 
 health and vitality. Health and physical development are indispensable. 
 Locomotion is not only natural but necessary. There is not a respectable 
 medical authority in the country that dare recommend the dispensing with 
 daily exercise in the air for man and beast where health and physical develop- 
 ment are sought after. Weakness and incapacity are induced by confinement. 
 We must not sacrifice indispensable ends to temporary profit and conveni- 
 ence. Temporary profit is often the wanton violation of physiological law. 
 Provide warm sheds, and well ventilated stables, with bedding ; feed well and 
 groom well, but allow stock an opportunity for free exercise, at least an hour 
 or two each day, whenever the weather permits. 
 
 HOW cows SHOULD GO INTO WINTER QUAKTEES. 
 
 Now we have said that one essential point in the wintering of dairy stock is 
 to have the animals in good, thrifty condition, when they go into the stable at 
 the commencement of winter. Deep milkers are apt to milk down thin in 
 fall, and when there is a disposition to lose flesh in this way, it is always well 
 to commence feeding ground grain, oat-meal, bran and ship-stuffs ; since it is 
 much easier and less expensive to put on flesh in the fall, when the weather is 
 comparatively warm, than in winter. If the animals go into the stables in 
 good condition, and are properly dried of their milk, they will continue to 
 gain through the winter, on good hay alone. But if they get a daily ration 
 of roots — either cai'rots, tui'nijjs, or mangolds — with a little straw to pick at 
 from time to time as a change, they will come out in spring in good, healthy, 
 serviceable condition. They must be fed and watered with regularity, and I 
 prefer that the feeding be three times a day — morning, noon and night. 
 
 In Herkimer Co., where we have been engaged in dairying for seventy 
 years, a great many experiments or different methods of management have 
 been tried, but our best dairymen say that when cows are wintered on early 
 cut hay, with an allowance of roots of some kind, and treated in the way I 
 have indicated, the cows almost invariably do well after calving, with no 
 trouble from retention of after-birth or from garget. 
 
 EAELT AKD LATE CUT GRASS — RELATIVE VALUE FOR MILCH COWS. 
 
 The opinions of dairymen in regard to the nutritive value of grass cut 
 for hay at different stages of maturity have changed materially during the 
 last few years. Grass now, in the best dairy districts of New York, is cut 
 much earlier than it used to be ; and it is found by experience that cattle 
 thrive in winter upon early cut grass properly cured, and come out in spring 
 in a much better condition as to flesh and health, than when fed upon grass 
 cut when over-ripe. When grass is left to stand till over-ripe there is a large 
 amount of woody fiber, which the animal cannot assimilate. Hence, in order 
 to get sufl[icient nutriment, a large bulk has to be consumed. It has been 
 proved by experiments made by our best Herkimer county farmers, with a 
 
132 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 view to determine the relative value of early cut grass, that the early cut grass 
 ia feeding will give as good results when given without any additional food 
 as the late cut grass with a moderate daily ration of meal. 
 
 Some farmers, therefore, prefer to cut a portion of their grass early in 
 June, before it comes fairly into flower, curing it without allowing it to get 
 wet, and storing it where it can be used specially for spring feeding. In this 
 way some avoid feeding grain in spring, when cows begin to come in milk. 
 
 I have made frequent examinations of herds carried through to grass 
 without a particle of grain, or indeed any other food except the early cut 
 grass, nicely cured, and the animals on turning to grass were in good, fair 
 condition. I do not approve, however, of wintering milch cows on one kind 
 of food, believing they should have variety, such as roots, straw and coarse 
 fodder, in addition to a full supply of the best hay ; and then, when cows 
 begin to come in milk, before turning to grass, a little ground meal, bran or 
 ship-stuffs should be given daily. I mention these facts in reference to early 
 cut grass in order to show that it is much more nutritious than many farmers 
 suppose. 
 
 STOCK SHOULD BE WINTERED WELL. 
 
 To have stock make a good yield of milk during the season, it is important 
 that the animals be wintered well, and not allowed at any time to get poor 
 in flesh, or weak. The cow that comes through the winter weak and debili- 
 tated, and reduced in flesh, will require the larger part of the summer to 
 recuperate. She will yield not only a small quantity of milk during the time 
 she is recuperating, but it will be poor in quality, and hence such an animal 
 can render but meager profits even on the cheapest kind of land ; for her 
 care, and the labor of milking, &c., will nearly if not quite eat up in cost 
 the value of her product. 
 
 THE VARIATION IN THE QUALITY OP MILK, 
 
 on account of poor keep, thinness of flesh, and a debilitated condition of 
 the animal, has been very abundantly set forth by the chemists, in their 
 analyses of milk from such animals. In such cases the butter has been found 
 to fall off from five per cent, to less than two per cent., with a considerable 
 reduction also in the casein. The influence of poor keep on the quality of 
 milk, is a question not very well understood or appreciated by the majority 
 of farmers. The man who keeps his herd poorly, and delivers his milk at the 
 factory with those whose herds are well fed and cared for, ought in justice to 
 make a proper allowance for an inferior quality of milk. To come in on an 
 equality with his neighbor's good milk, is in fact to take from his neighbor a 
 certain amount of property without accounting for it. There is no practical 
 method as yet, at the factories, for regulating this abuse, except by excluding 
 such milk from the factory. But there is another question of considerable 
 importance in connection with cutting grass early. The meadows are more 
 endui-ing and yield better returns year after year. In New York we find 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 133 
 
 one great cause of meadows running out, 
 
 is allowing the grass to stand until ripe or over-ripe, before cutting. When 
 meadows are thinly seeded, and it is not desirable to break them up, the turf 
 will be greatly improved by cutting the grass early, just as it comes in flower. 
 It is very poor economy to let the grass stand until over-ripe to shed seed, 
 hoping to re-seed in this manner and get a good turf. A much better way 
 will be to cut the grass early, and then as the fall rains approach go over the 
 ground, scattering seed wherever it is needed ; but when the earth freezes 
 deeply, and the roots of the grass are liable to be destroyed by frost, this 
 operation of seeding can be done early in spring. One great trouble in 
 
 GETTING A GOOD TURF UPON MEADOWS, 
 
 results from using too little seed and too few varieties. When timothy alone 
 is to be raised, a half bushel of seed to the acre is none too small a quantity 
 to be used. A very successful farmer in Herkimer, who grows large crops 
 of timothy, adopts the following system : — If old land (or land upon which 
 a hoed crop has been grown), it is plowed in the fall. Then in the spring a 
 coat of manure is spread on the surface and worked in with the cultivator, 
 and the grass seed sown with some spring grain. 
 
 VALUE OF EARLY. CUT GRASS. 
 
 In regard to the value of early cut grass for dairy stock, the experiments, 
 not only in my own dairy but numerous well authenticated statements from 
 others, leave not the slightest doubt. The most remarkable result, however, 
 on record, was that obtained in the feeding of the Vermont cow. Taking 
 into consideration that the animal received no grain, and was fed nothing but 
 grass and hay, her record is worthy of a place beside the celebrated Oakes 
 cow. The Oakes cow, it will be remembered, produced four hundred and 
 eighty pounds of butter besides suckling her calf for five weeks, and all 
 between the fifth of April and the twenty-fifth of September. She received, 
 however, in addition to her full allowance of grass, a bushel of corn-meal per 
 week, and all her own milk skimmed. The Vermont cow, upon grass and hay 
 alone, produced during the year 1865, five hundi-ed and four pounds of butter, 
 and the following is her record, given by her owner, Mr. A. Scott of Crafts- 
 bury, Vermont : 
 
 Dec. 30tb, 1864, to Apr. 20tli, 1865, 200 lbs. @ 60 cents per lb $120.00 
 
 " 54.00 
 
 " 16.00 
 
 " 17.00 
 
 " 16.50 
 
 " 11.00 
 
 Apr. " 
 
 " " Aug. 
 
 " 180 lbs. @ 30 
 
 Aug. " 
 
 " " Sept. 
 
 40 lbs. @ 40 
 
 Sept. " 
 
 " " Oct. 
 
 34 lbs. @ 50 
 
 Oct. " 
 
 " " Nov. 
 
 30 lbs. @ 55 
 
 Nov. " 
 
 " " Dec. 
 
 20 lbs. @ 55 
 
 Total for the year, - 504 lbs. $234.50 
 
 This cow is described by her owner as of good size, and of native breed, 
 and when purchased, four years before, was considered a very ordinary cow. 
 
134 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The Oakes cow was also of native breed. In the Transactions of the New 
 York State Agricultural Society, we find a notice of several cows remarkable 
 for their large yield of butter during a short period, but it is not stated upon 
 what feed the animals were kept. Thus we have the Nourse cow of Danvers, 
 that produced fourteen pounds of butter per week for sixteen weeks ; the 
 Sanderson cow of Waltham, fourteen pounds weekly for the same length of 
 time ; the Hazelton cow of Haverhill, the Bosset cow of Northampton, and 
 Buxton of Danvers, the first two yielding fourteen pounds, and the last 
 sixteen pounds weekly for twelve weeks. Geo. Kerr, of Ontario Co., N. Y., 
 reports nineteen pounds of butter from a native cow in one week, and sixteen 
 pounds weekly for the two succeeding weeks. T. Comstock of Oneida Co., 
 from a three-fourths native and one-fourth Durham cow, seventeen pounds five 
 ounces in one week, and C. D. Miller of Madison Co., twenty and one-half 
 pounds in one week ; and from the same source we learn that G. A. Mann 
 of Onondaga Co., made sixty-seven and a-half pounds of butter from the 
 milk of one cow, in thirty days. 
 
 The Vermont Cow came in milk on the 15th of December, and on the 
 25th Mr. Scott commenced setting the milk. The first nine days she made 
 twenty-three pounds of butter, and in twenty-six days she had filled a tub of 
 fifty-two pounds. In the detailed statement which Mr. S. gives in reference 
 to the feed and management of this cow, we find considerable difierence from 
 the usual practice, and indeed from the commonly received opinion of farmers 
 on this question. He believes as much butter can be made in the barn by 
 having the cow come in in winter and fed upon hay, as in the summer upon 
 grass, and the remarkable results obtained seem to prove it. He does not 
 believe in feeding meal to cows, and has not fed any for the last five years. 
 He remarks : — " If I had a cow as good as one I spoiled with meal a few 
 years ago, I think, with my present treatment, she would make three 
 pounds of butter a day, instead of two and a-half as the cow alluded to above 
 has done." 
 
 MR. SCOTt's management OF COWS. 
 
 The management of his stock is as follows : The cows are fed on hay three 
 times a day, no more or less ; are watered morning and evening, and then put 
 back into the stall, and kept there night and day during the winter. The 
 amount of hay fed to this cow did not vary a pound from twenty-five pounds 
 a day ; smaller cows take about twenty pounds. The hay that cattle eat, he 
 says, does them little good until they raise it up and chew it over in the cud ; 
 then it goes to form milk or flesh, as the case may be. If the animals have a 
 comfortable place to lie down in they commence chewing it over as soon as 
 they get their meals eaten, and when twelve o'clock comes they are ready for 
 their meal again, and so on until evening. There should always be regularity 
 in feeding and watering. 
 
 He describes his barn as double-boarded, outside and in, with double 
 windows, and so ventilated that the temperature may be controlled at pleasure, 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 135 
 
 even in the coldest weather. It is thrown open all round or shut up, just as 
 the weather happens to be, and is kept above freezing point. But another 
 important point, from which the highest results named have been reached, is 
 in securing the hay in such a manner that a large percentage of the nutritive 
 matter is retained. Haying is begun about the 8th of June, and finished, if 
 possible, by the 25th. Another crop is cut the last of August, and in some 
 places a third crop in September ; and he well remarks that instead of com- 
 mencing haying about the 4th of July and finishing in August and September, 
 as has been the practice from time immemorial, all the grass ought to be cut 
 and in the barn by July. Here then, after all, is a part of the secret of Mr. 
 Scott's success. It is in making the hay so that it shall be equal in nutritive 
 value, or nearly so, to the fresh grass of pastures. There can scarcely be a 
 doubt but that immense losses are sustained by our best farmers in this 
 matter of harvesting the hay crop. We do not commence harvesting early 
 enough, but wait until much of the nutritive value of the grass has been 
 wasted and used to form woody fiber, under the impression that we are 
 getting more bulk and therefore more available food. Some years ago Mr. 
 Lewis of Herkimei', abandoned the use of meal and grain in spring, believing 
 better results were obtained from early cut grass properly cured. I went out 
 to Mr. Lewis's farm in spring, and made a personal examination of his herd, 
 for the purpose of seeing how far flesh and condition could be maintained in 
 the way suggested, and I found the animals as thrifty as had been represented. 
 The experiment of Mr. Scott is valuable in this : it demonstrates the relative 
 value of early cut and late cut grasses, for no one can doubt the fact that his 
 hay must have contained a more than ordinary amount of nutrition to produce 
 the result — a result, we venture to say, which could not be realized from late 
 cutting. Most farmers are aware that hay as usually cut and stored is 
 insufiicient to keep milch cows in a full flow of milk for any considerable 
 length of time. When no additional food is given they fall oflT rapidly in 
 flesh, and the milk depreciates in quantity and quality, even if the cow has 
 all the hay she can consume. 
 
 INJURY FROM FEEDING CONCENTRATED FOOD. 
 
 There is another question raised by the experiment of Mr. Scott, and that 
 is, to what extent milch cows are injured by feeding concentrated food? He 
 asserts that he spoiled a cow by feeding meal. Of course cows are liable to 
 be injured by over-feeding ; but we are not prepared to admit that a judicious 
 use of meal will injure a cow for milk. The feeding of meal may be, and 
 doubtless is, more expensive than grass cut and prepared as he suggests ; and 
 admitting that such hay makes the most milk, it does not prove that meal fed 
 judiciously will spoil the animal, without it be from over-feeding. Cows 
 doubtless are injured and their lives shortened by excessive feeding of meal 
 and grains, but if hay is poor or cut after half of its nutritive elements have 
 passed away, the waste must be made up in some way in feeding, or the 
 animal runs down, and when turned to pasture, is a long while recuperating. 
 
1.36 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 CUTTING AND COOKING THE FOOD, 
 
 i 
 
 But where considerable quantities of straw and coarse fodder are raised 
 on the farm, it may be of advantage to utilize it by cutting and cooking. In 
 the English dairies, as I have observed, stock is mostly wintered upon cut 
 straw, pulped tuniips, and oil cake. The food is not generally cooked. In 
 using cooked straw, a certain proportion of meal, bran, or ship stuffs is added 
 to make up a nutritive equivalent equal to good meadow hay, and the experi- 
 menters pretty generally agree that the gain by cutting and cooking is about 
 one-third ; that is, that the expense of food is one-third less than when hay 
 alone is used in the usual way. I have referred to this system in the account 
 
 1 gave of the Tbuesdale barn. A few years ago Hon. Wm. I. Skinnek 
 of Little Falls, N. Y., set up machinery and experimented during one 
 winter, to satisfy himself in regard to the system. He divided his stock, 
 feeding forty-four head upon straw and shippings, and twenty-six head upon 
 hay. The forty-four head were consuming four hundred and forty pounds of 
 oat straw and three hundred and fifty-two pounds of shippings per day, and 
 two men were employed to cut and steam the food and take care of the 
 stock. The whole expense was as follows : 
 
 440 lbs. straw, @ $10 pel- ton $2 20 
 
 352 lbs. shippings, @ 23^c., niurket price 7 92 
 
 2 men, at 9 shillings per day each 2 25 
 
 Wood, used for cooking per day. 39 
 
 $12 76 
 or twenty-nine "Cents for each head per day. Each cow received ten pounds 
 straw and eight pounds shipping per day. The twenty-six cows consumed 
 six hundred and fifty pounds of hay per day, and the expense for this lot was 
 as follows : 
 
 650 lbs. hay, @ $25 per tou $8 123^ 
 
 Labor, 1 man, 9 shillings per day >. 1 123^ 
 
 $9 25 
 
 or thirty-five cents per day for each cow, showing a balance in favor of straw 
 and shippings of six cents per day for each head. Cut straw averages about 
 five pounds to the bushel, and cut hay eight pounds. The eight pounds of 
 shippings make a little over ten quarts. I examined this stock several times 
 during the winter, and to all appearance those fed on the cooked food were 
 plump and doing better than the lot on hay. The several descriptions of 
 feed used are put at the market price that winter. 
 
 MR. E. w. Stewart's experiments. 
 
 Mr. E. W. Stewart of Erie Co., iN". Y., who has experimented largely 
 in cooking food for cattle, says : — " Steaming renders moldy hay, straw and 
 corn-stalks sweet and palatable, thus restoring their value ; renders peas and 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 137 
 
 beans agreeable food for horses as well as other stock, and thus enables the 
 feeder to combine more nitrogenous food in the diet of his animals. Half 
 hay and half straw, mixed and steamed, more than equals hay unsteamed. 
 When cows are kept in milk through the winter, cooking their food will 
 greatly increase the yield of milk." He estimates the saving in food for each 
 cow in milk at $8.00 for the season. Again he says, that a mixture of oil and 
 pea meal and bran makes an excellent food to produce milk, and keep up the 
 condition of the cow ; one and a-half pounds of oil and pea meal and three 
 pounds of bran mixed with ten pounds of hay steamed per day for each cow 
 weighing eight hundred pounds, will generally be sufficient. This, he says, has 
 been determined by his experiments, long and faithfully tried. And, he adds, 
 this may be thought a small quantity from which a cow of that size, at her 
 best season, could produce four gallons of milk and keep up her condition ; 
 but it must be remembered that four gallons of milk contain only about four 
 pounds dry matter, which will leave a supply for the thrift of the cow. And 
 when this sixteen pounds of hay, oil, and pea meal and bran, are thoroughly 
 cooked together the nutriment is all extracted by the animal. In experi- 
 menting to determine what amount of bran or meal upon straw would make 
 it equal to hay, he found two quarts bran and one quart corn meal on one 
 bushel of oat, wheat or barley straw rendered it equal to the best of hay. 
 When considerable quantities of coarse fodder are raised on the farm, doubt- 
 less cutting and steaming could be practiced with considerable advantage, but 
 it is a question whether it will pay to introdiice machinery for cooking early 
 cut hay, and the general impression of our dairymen is, that for this kind of 
 food, considering the extra labor and expense in cooking, there would be no 
 advantage. 
 
 cows CALVING. 
 
 The practice is now quite common in New York to allow cows to drop 
 their calves while confined in the stanchion. The practice is not to be recom- 
 mended. It is better as this critical time approaches, to sepax'ate the cow 
 from the herd, placing her in a roomy stable, where she may have perfect 
 freedom, and where she may be at liberty to perform the necessary office of 
 cleansing the young calf and giving it suck. In most cases parturition will 
 be natural and easy, and, as Mr. Flint remarks, " the less a cow is disturbed 
 or meddled with the better." Soon after calving a bran mashj made with 
 tepid water, should be given to the cow, which operates favorably on the 
 expulsion of the afterbirth. 
 
 SPBING AND SUMMER FEED FOR MILCH COWS. 
 
 There is a great difference of opinion among dairymen in reference to the 
 kinds of grain best adapted to milch cows in spring. Dairymen generally 
 suit their own convenience in this matter, without much regard to the opinion 
 of others. If they have raised and have on hand a surplus of corn, or barley, 
 or oats, they are very apt to feed one or the other as best suits their conven- 
 ience at the time ; and if grain is to be purchased, the matter of prices has 
 
138 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 more of a controlling influence than what is best adapted to the animal 
 economy. So widely do people differ on this question that many prefer to 
 feed in spring nothing but hay, if of good quality, claiming that the cows will 
 be healthier when turned to grass, and that the net profits from the dairy will 
 be greater than where grain is used in spring feeding. In other words, that 
 the value of the grain fed in spring more than balances receipts from the 
 extra quantity of cream and butter produced ; and hence grain feeding in 
 spring must be very poor economy. Another class of dairymen, who claim 
 to have looked pretty closely to the profits to be realized from milch cows, 
 and to have compared results one year with another, say that nothing is 
 gained by having cows " come in milk " as early as February or March. They 
 prefer the months of April and May, as not only more agreeable, but actually 
 resulting in greater profits. They argue that cows " coming in milk " early 
 in the season, are more exposed to cold and storms which must injure the 
 health and weaken the constitution of the animal ; that it sooner wears out 
 the cow, and yields no more net profit than when a later date is had for 
 commencing the business of dairying. Why, they say, should one do extra 
 work in milking and nursing stock through the bad weather of February 
 and March, when the result from stock calving thus early, not only is no 
 pecuniary gain, but brings positive injury to the herd ? 
 
 Others insist that greater profits are realized when cheese and butter 
 making is commenced early in the season. But if we assume that cows are 
 to come in milk as early as March, then some kind of food other than hay 
 — at least hay as usually harvested — seems to be imperatively demanded, 
 in order to keep stock in decent condition as to health and strength, until 
 it comes to grass. 
 
 THE SECKBTION' OF MILK A HABIT. 
 
 Now, the secretion of milk is in some respects a matter of habit or educa- 
 tion, and should be promoted and kept up from its first flow. This cannot 
 be accomplished on late cut hay alone, since the cow cannot be induced to 
 consume the quantity necessary for her maintenance and a full yield of milk 
 of good quality. This will be made evident by comparing the constituents 
 of milk and those of ordinary meadow hay. Suppose the cow is yielding 
 but eight quarts or twenty pounds of milk per day. This will contain a little 
 
 over two and a-half pounds of dry material, as follows : 
 
 lbs. 
 
 Of casein 1000 
 
 Of butter 0.625 
 
 Of sugar 0.875 
 
 Of phosphate of lime 0.045 
 
 Other mineral ingredients 0.055 
 
 Total.... 3.600 
 
 Twenty pounds of ordinary hay contain of albuminous matter, fibrine and 
 casein, &c., say about 1.85 ; oil, butter, &c., say 5.36. So it will be seen that 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 139 
 
 thig quantity of hay (considering that a part of the nutritive matter is not 
 assimilated, and passes off in the excrement), will be mostly needed for the 
 manufacture of the milk alone, while a like quantity and more must be used 
 for her maintenance. Experience as well as science amply demonstrates 
 the fact that late cut hay when used as an exclusive food for milch cows 
 is insufficient to produce milk rich in quality and large in quantity. Mr. J. 
 B. La WES of Rothamsted, England, in a recent paper on the 
 
 EXPENDITUKE OF FOOD BY EESPIEATION, 
 
 says: — "If there is one thing which is more firmly established by scientific 
 inquiry tljan another, it is that actual waste or expenditure of substance is 
 going on during the whole period of our existence, and that unless this waste 
 be compensated by food, death must quickly ensue. 
 
 " The nearest approach to the continuance of life without food is in the 
 case of those animals which pass through a period of hybernation. A dor- 
 mouse for instance, sleeps through a great part of the winter; the little 
 animal becomes cold to the touch, shows no sign of respiration, and is to all 
 appearance dead. Nevertheless, careful experiments have proved that slow 
 respiration is going on all the time, accompanied with gradual loss of 
 substance ; and if the cold weather be sufficiently prolonged, or the animal 
 be subjected by artificial means to a continuance of low temperature, death 
 will take place ; if not from other causes, at any rate as soon as there ceases 
 to be a supply of accumulated fat, or other material within the body, avail- 
 able for the purposes of respiration. 
 
 " Indeed, the resources of the body itself, unreplenished by food, can 
 supply the necessary material for Avaste for only a limited period. The 
 minimum amount of food required to maintain existence will vary for a given 
 live weight according to the description of the animal, the description of the 
 food, the conditions of life and individual peculiarities. But, to say nothing 
 of other losses, as part of the substance of the body passes off into the 
 atmosphere with every respiration, it is absolutely certain that death cannot 
 be far off whenever the supply of food is stopped. 
 
 " The fact of a constant expenditure of food by respiration has a very 
 important bearing on the economy of the farm. Every animal that is kept, 
 whether for labor or for the production of meat, requires a given amount of 
 food for the mere maintenance of life. If it receive more than this, the 
 remainder may serve to enable the working animal to perform his labor or 
 the meat-making animal to increase in substance and in weight, and conse- 
 quently in value. 
 
 " It may be mentioned, in passing, that direct experiments have proved 
 that the expenditure by respiration is very much greater within a given time 
 while an animal is awake than while it is asleep ; and again, very much 
 greater in exercise than when at rest. 
 
 " Confining attention to the case of the animals fed for the butcher, it will 
 
140 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 be obvious that the economy of the feeding process will be the greater the 
 less the amount of food expended by respiration in the production of a given 
 amount of increase ; and it is equally obvious that one ready and efficient 
 means of lessening the j)roportiou of the waste or expenditure to the increase 
 produced, is to lessen, as far possible, the time taken to produce it ; in other 
 words, to fatten as quickly as possible. 
 
 " An example taken from the ordinary practice of the farm clearly illus- 
 trates the point, and shows the great importance of bearing the facts in mind. 
 From the results of numerous experiments made at Rothamsted, it may be 
 assumed that on the average a pig weighing one hundred pounds will, if 
 supplied with as much barley meal as he will eat, consume five hundred 
 pounds of it, and double his weight — that is, increase from one hundred 
 pounds to two hundred pounds live weight, in sixteen or seventeen weeks. 
 
 The following table shows the amount of dry or solid constituents in the five hundred 
 pounds of barley meal, and how they will be disposed of in the case supposed : 
 
 500 POUNDS OP BARLEY MEAL PRODITCE 100 POUNDS INCREASE AND SUPPLY. 
 
 Nitrogenous substance, 
 
 Non-nitrogenous substance, 
 
 Mineral matter, 
 
 Total dry substance. 
 
 In Food. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 52 
 
 357 
 
 11 
 
 420 
 
 In 100 
 
 Inckease. 
 
 In Man- 
 ure. 
 
 Lbs. 
 
 7.0 
 66.0 
 
 0.8 
 
 73.8 
 
 Lbs. 
 I 59.8 
 10.2 
 
 70.0 
 
 In Kespi- 
 
 EATION, 
 
 Lbs. 
 276.2 
 
 276.3 
 
 " From the figures in the table we learn that the four hundred and twenty 
 pounds of dry or solid substance which the five hundred pounds of barley 
 meal contain, about seventy-four are stored up in the one hundred pounds of 
 increase in live weight, about seventy are recovered in the manure, and two 
 hundred and seventy-six, or nearly two-thirds of the whole, are given off" into 
 the atmosphere by respiration and perspiration — that is to say, are expended 
 in the mere sustenance of the living meat and manure-making machine, 
 during the sixteen or seventeen weeks required to produce the one hundred 
 pounds of increase. 
 
 " But now let us suppose that instead of allowing the pig to have so much 
 barley meal as he will eat, we make the five hundred pounds of barley meal 
 last many more weeks. The result would be that the animal would appro- 
 priate a correspondingly larger proportion of the food for the purposes of 
 respiration and perspiration, and a correspondingly less proportion in the 
 production of increase. In other words, if the five hundred pounds of barley 
 meal be distributed over a longer period of time, it will give less increase in 
 live weight, and a larger proportion of it will be employed in the mere main- 
 tenance of the life of the animal. Indeed, if the period of consumption of 
 five hundred pounds of meal be sufiiciently extended, the result will be that 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandbt. 141 
 
 no increase whatever will be produced, and that the whole of the food, 
 excepting the portion obtained as manure, will be expended in the mere 
 maintenance of the life of the animal. The conclusion is obvious, that 
 provided the fattening animal can assimilate the food, a given amount of 
 increase will be obtained with a smaller expenditure of constituents by 
 respiration, the shorter the time taken to produce it. In fact, by early 
 maturity and the r£,pid fattening of stock, a vast saving of food is effected. 
 It is true that the flavor and quality of the meat of the one-year old sheep 
 or the two or three-year old bullock, are not as good as that of the three or 
 four-year old sheep, or the four or five-year old ox. But it is obvious that 
 the mutton and beef of the older animals can only be produced with a much 
 greater expenditure of food, and generally at an increased money cost, which 
 must put them beyond the reach of a great majority of consumers." 
 
 HORSF all's experiments. 
 
 Some of the most valuable experiments for feeding milch cows are those 
 made by Mr. Horsfall of England. By affording a full supply of the 
 elements of food adapted to the maintenance and produce of the animal, he 
 was enabled to obtain as much milk, and that which was as rich in butter 
 during winter as in summer. He used, to some extent, cabbages, mangolds, 
 shorts, and other substances rich in the constituents of cheese and butter. 
 " My food for milch cows," he says, " after having undergone various modifica- 
 tions, has for two seasons consisted of rape cake, five pounds, and bran, two 
 pounds for each cow, mixed into a sufiicient quantity of bean straw, oat straw, 
 and shells of oats, in equal proportions, to supply them three times a day with 
 as much as they will eat. The whole of the materials are moistened and 
 blended together, and after being well steamed, are given to the animal in 
 a warm state. The attendant is allowed one pound to one and a-half pounds 
 per cow, according to circumstances, of bean meal, which he is charged to give 
 to each cow in proportion to the yield of milk, those in full milk getting two 
 pounds each per day, others but little. It is dry and mixed with the steamed 
 food, on its being dealt out separately. When this is eaten up, green food 
 is given, consisting of cabbages from October to December, kohl-rabi till 
 February, and mangolds till grass time," His cows under this treatment 
 usually yield from twelve to sixteen quarts of milk (wine measure) per 
 day, for about eight months after calving, when they fall off in milk, but 
 gain flesh up to the time of calving. From these experiments, conducted in 
 a careful manner, it would seem that food rich in albuminous matter produced 
 the best results. Bean meal contains twenty-eight per cent, of this substance. 
 Beans are not used in this country as food for stock, but if we select other 
 grains, rich in cheesy matter, the principle may be carried out, and satisfactory 
 results obtained. 
 
 The three grains containing albuminous or flesh-forming matter in largest 
 proportion next to beans (if peas aro excepted), ai*e rye, oats and barley, each 
 
142 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 containing from ten to fourteen and a-half per cent. ; these, when ground into 
 meal and mixed in equal quantities, taking their usual market value into con- 
 sideration, are perhaps the best that can be selected. My own experience 
 in the use of these grains as a spring food for milch cows corresponds with that 
 of others as giving most satisfactory results. I have used oats and peas ground 
 into meal together, and could wish for no better feed, but the cost was more, 
 which was not met by increased production of milk. Bai'ley and oats ground 
 and mixed together have also been used with good results. Corn-meal I deem 
 objectionable, on account of its heating nature. Its influence at times is very 
 deleterious, having been known to lessen the quantity and injure the quality 
 of milk, and in some instances dry up the cows. Bran is a very valuable feed 
 for milch cows ; it is rich in phosphates and nitrogenous or flesh-forming 
 material, and when mingled with oat meal, gives the very best results. 
 
 FEEDING GRAIISr IN SUMMER. 
 
 On the question of feeding cows grain through the summer, the general 
 opinion among dairymen is, that it does not pay so long as the herds have an 
 abundance of good grass. When shorts and bran can be obtained at cheap 
 rates, and feed is beginning to fail, they may doubtless be employed with 
 profit. Mingled with the hay and fed to cows, the milk gives a larger per- 
 centage of cream, while the quantity of milk also is increased. 
 
 The most natural, and of course the healthiest food for milch cows in 
 summer is the green grass of our pastures. When cows are giving an extra 
 quantity of milk, and in consequence are milking down thin and poor, it will 
 be advisable to use concentrated food. The principle to be understood is that 
 milk of good quality and large quantity depends upon food, and that the 
 condition and strength of the animal must at all times be kept up. If allowed 
 to run down and become poor and weak, we are undermining the constitution 
 of the cow, and by inattention and neglect defeating the ends by which our 
 best interests are to be promoted. 
 
 TURNING TO GRASS. 
 
 When cows are first turned to grass in spring, if feed is abundant, they 
 should not be allowed in the pasture but a few hours each day, for several 
 days — the change of food should be gradual. Serious troubles have some- 
 times resulted from inattention to this point, especially when turning cows 
 into luxuriant afterfeed in autumn. 
 
 SALTING cows. 
 
 Another important matter in the management of dairy stock is to have it 
 properly provided with salt. The best way to salt dairy cows is to have the 
 salt in some place conveniently located for stock, Avhere daily access may be 
 had to it, and the animals allowed to take whatever their appetites crave. It 
 may be placed in boxes arranged in the feed alley of the stables, or in troughs 
 in the shed, or open yard. Where cows have free access to salt, they soon 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 143 
 
 regulate their appetite to the daily use of small quantities of it, taking no 
 more than is required to promote health. Animals require more or less salt, 
 according to the character of their food, and the practice of salting at certain 
 intervals is often injurious, since they are liable to ovex'feed of it, causing 
 excessive scouring and derangement of health. This is particularly the case 
 when salt is thrown out to stock indiscriminately in the fields at intervals of 
 a week or more. In such cases the master cows not unfrequently gorge 
 themselves, preventing the weaker animals from getting a due supply, and 
 thus one part of the herd is injured by overfeeding, and the other part by 
 not obtaining what is needed. When the animals have access to salt, nature 
 dictates as to its use, and hence the best results, both as to health and yield 
 of milk, follow. Salt is very necessary for milch cows. Without it the milk 
 becomes scanty and imperfect. It is an important element in the blood, and 
 furnishes the soda necessary to hold the cheesy part of the milk in solution. 
 Haidlin found in one thousand -pounds of milk, analyzed by him, nearly half 
 a pound of free soda, and over a third of a pound of chloride of sodium. 
 There was also one and three-quarter pounds of chloride of potassium. There 
 are various pui-poses in the animal economy that require salt, and cows in 
 milk should at all times have free access to it. Perhaps the greatest necessity 
 for its use is in spring, when cows are first turned to pasture. The food then 
 is rather deficient in saline matter, and does not furnish sufl[icient for a large 
 quantity of milk. As grass becomes more mature the mineral elements are 
 more abundant, and there is less desire on the part of animals for salt. It is 
 on this account and because cows have been dried of their milk, that in 
 winter much less salt is required in the dairy than in summer. From experi- 
 ments that have been made it has been found that in May and June, when 
 milch cows have been deprived of salt for several days, the milk shrunk from 
 one to two per cent, in quantity, and from two to four per cent, in quality. 
 Later in the season the experiments showed less difference. Thus it will be 
 seen that dairy stock, to produce the best results, should have a daily supply 
 of salt, and that the quantity is much better regulated by the animal than it 
 can be by the stock-keeper who doles it out at intervals. 
 
 WATER FOR COWS. 
 
 I have alluded to the importance of providing milch cows with good 
 water, and something more may be said on this point, because it is one of the 
 secrets of success, which the great majority of dairymen to-day do not fully 
 comprehend. The importance of providing an abundance of water for cows 
 in milk cannot be over-estimated. Every practical dairyman must have 
 observed how rapidly cows shrink of their milk in hot, dry weather, when 
 water is scarce and the animals do not get their usual supply. But although 
 in such cases the cause of milk falling ofi" is traced to its true source, many 
 forget to take a hint from such observation in their management of milch 
 stock during the summer and fall. Cows of course will live where the daily 
 
144 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 I 
 
 supply of water is limited, and by yielding a less quantity of milk, they adapt 
 themselves to the circumstances under which they are placed. And if water 
 is not abundant or is situated in out of the way places, where it is not easy 
 of access, the animals soon educate themselves to get along with a much less 
 quantity than they would were it placed befoi-e them in abundance. Up to a 
 certain point, the animal will accommodate herself without complaint to the 
 conditions, and it often happens that because cows show no very marked 
 uneasiness nor falling off in flesh, it is supposed they get all the water which 
 they require, when in point of fact they are taking only a limited supply. 
 Herds thus situated do not yield large returns. The fault is not in the cows, 
 but in their management. ISTow, milch cows should rather be induced to take 
 all the water they will, and at no time should they be allowed to suffer from 
 thirst. A cow that gives a large quantity of milk, must of necessity require 
 more water, other things being equal, than the cow that gives only a small 
 quantity of milk, for we must remember that of the constituents of milk 
 eighty-seven parts or thereabout are water. To what extent the quantity of 
 milk can be increased and at the same time a good quality be secured, by 
 inducing the animal to take an abundant quantity of liquid, is still a question 
 undetermined, but that milk of good quality can in this manner be increased 
 and without injury to the animal, there is not the slightest doubt. Upon 
 this point we have some interesting experiments by M. Dancel, as communi- 
 cated to the French Academy of Sciences. He found that by inciting cows 
 to drink large quantities of water, the quantity of milk yielded by them can 
 be increased several quarts per day without materially injuring its quality. 
 The amount of milk obtained, he says, is approximately proportional to the 
 quantity of water drank. Cows which, when stall fed with dry fodder, gave 
 only from nine to twelve quarts of milk per day, at once produced from 
 twelve to fourteen quarts daily, when their food was moistened by mixing 
 with it from eighteen to twenty-three quarts of water per day. Besides 
 this water taken with the food, the animals were allowed to drink at the same 
 intervals as before, and their thirst was excited by adding to their fodder a 
 small quantity of salt. The milk produced under the water regimen, after 
 having been carefully analyzed and examined as to its chemical and physical 
 properties, was adjudged to be of good quality, and excellent butter was 
 obtained from it. 
 
 The precise proportion of water which can thus be given to cows with 
 advantage, he says, is a point not readily determinable, since the appetite for 
 drink differs very considerably in different animals. But by observing the 
 degree of the appetite for drink in a number of cows, by taking note of the 
 quantity of water habitually consumed by each of the animals in the course 
 of twenty-four hours, and contrasting this quantity with that of the milk 
 produced, M. Dancel asserts that any one can see that the yield of milk is 
 directly proportionate to the quantity of water absorbed. He asserts, more-^ 
 over, that a cow that does not habitually drink so much as twenty-seven 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 145 
 
 quarts of water per day — and he has met with such — is actually and necessa- 
 rily a poor milker. She will give only from five and a-half to seven quarts 
 per day. But all the cows he has seen which drank as much as fifty quarts 
 of water daily, were excellent milkers, yielding from nineteen to twenty-three 
 quarts of milk. In his opinion the quantity of drink consumed by a cow is 
 a valuable test of her worth as a milk producer. 
 
 Now, whether the inferences drawn by Dancbl from his experiments be 
 strictly true in any particular or applicable in all cases, need not be discussed 
 for the present, but they illustrate in some degree at least, facts familiar to 
 practical men. The most common observer must have taken note that in the 
 human family the mother suckling her infant requires and consumes more 
 liquids than she did before or after her period of nursing. And the practical 
 dairyman must have been dull indeed if he has not observed the difference in 
 the appetite of cows for water before and after they have begun to give milk. 
 The lesson which practical dairymen should learn from these facts is, that 
 cows to yield the best returns must be provided with an abundance of pure 
 water, so located that it is easy of access at all times. In fine, that induce- 
 ments held out in this way for cows to drink, are a paying investment to 
 dairymen. But while milch cows can be made to yield larger returns by a 
 judicious use of liquids, we cannot recommend pushing the point to that 
 excess which may affect the health of stock or reduce the quality of milk to 
 a low standard, 
 
 FALL FEEDING. 
 
 As pastures begin to fail the latter part of July, soiling in part either with 
 green corn fodder, lucerne, millet, oats, or clover must be resorted to, for 
 keeping up a flow of milk, until cows go to the aftermath. It is essential that 
 the flow of milk be kept up, for if cows are allowed to fall off in milk at this 
 season of the year, it will be impossible to bring them back again by fall 
 feeding. I need not discuss this point further, and I have only a word more 
 in relation to the fall treatment of stock, since it is here that many dairymen 
 make very grave mistakes. As the season advances occasional frosts begin 
 to appear, and although grass may be abundant it is flashy and the frosts 
 injure materially its nutritive value. 
 
 At this season more than any other cows are apt to milk down poor, and 
 often before the dairyman is fully aware of the fact. If it is desirable to 
 keep up a flow of milk, a little bran or ground grain can be used with profit ; 
 even a few nubbins of corn fed daily will prove serviceable in keeping uj) the 
 strength and condition of the animal. But this is not all ; the cold storms 
 and frosty nights are injurious unless the animals are sheltered. Cows in 
 milk, as I have remarked, are susceptible to cold, and if not protected from 
 the inclement weather fall off rapidly in flesh and milk ; even in summer a 
 cold rain storm lessens the quantity of milk, as every dairyman must have 
 observed ; but towards the approach of winter, after yielding milk for several 
 months, the general tone of the system is reduced, and the animal is unable 
 10 
 
146 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 to withstand sudden changes without being injuriously affected. Stock that 
 is reduced in flesh at the commencement of winter, will require at least a 
 quarter more food to bring it through to grass than it would did it 
 start in high condition. This fact is lost sight of by many who suffer their 
 cattle to run down in the fall, milking them late, and allowing them to be 
 exposed to all kinds of weather. In cold, stormy nights during the fall cows 
 will do better in the stable, even with no feed, than to be left out exposed to 
 the inclemencies of the weather. What little food they pick up at such times 
 is not of much account ; they will seek out some sjDot that affords a partial 
 protection from the storm and cold, huddle together, and stand there shiver- 
 ing and discontented till morning. It is at such times that more or less injury 
 is done to the underlings of the herd from being hooked and driven about by 
 master cows. Perhaps at no season of the year does stock require more care 
 and attention than late in the fall, and at no season is it so generally neg- 
 lected. Many never think of housing an animal at this season so long as the 
 ground remains uncovered with snow, and many fancy they are saving fodder 
 by withholding food so long as there are patches here and there of frozen 
 aftermath, that are not eaten down. Such persons are often found complain- 
 ing that their hay rapidly wastes away after feeding has commenced, and is 
 wanting in nutrition ; that their stock comes out thin in spring, and the yield 
 of milk during the summer is less than it should be. They have no definite 
 idea where the trouble lies ; it is either in the hay or in the season, or in the 
 cows, and they mourn over their bad luck, when in fact the real cause of all 
 the trouble arose from neglect and want of care and attention in the fall 
 treatment of stock. 
 
 Cows that are expected to yield largely must have careful treatment and 
 liberal feed — they must be protected from the inclement weather in roomy, well- 
 ventilated stables. The importance of comfortable, well-lighted and well- ventil- 
 ated stables for milch cows is imperfectly understood, although much has been 
 written on the subject. It should be remembered that a lai-ge share of the 
 food eaten is used in furnishing warmth to the animal, and if we can supply 
 warmth by artificial means, it will be equivalent to a certain percentage of 
 food. Good shelter, therefore, serves in part for food. It has been well 
 remarked that " beside the actual loss of food from the increased amount 
 required under exposure to cold, there is a further loss in milk from the feeling 
 of discomfort. The secretions are always disturbed by influences that cause 
 pain or uneasiness, and every shiver of a half-frozen cow will make itself 
 visible in the milk pail." It will often therefore, be a matter of economy for 
 dairymen to commence feeding cabbages, the tops of roots, or small quantities 
 of grain, just as soon as the grasses of the pasture have been touched with 
 frosts. A daily allowance of bran, shorts, or ground feed of barley and oats, 
 or oats and corn, in the proportion of two parts oats to one of corn, will be 
 of the greatest service in keeping up a flow of milk and at the same time 
 keeping the animal in health and condition. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 147 
 
 There are many more topics in regard to the management of stock which 
 I could have wished to discuss, but enough perhaps has been said to give an 
 outline of the more important requisites in this branch of dairy management. 
 
 KAISIN'G CALVES. 
 
 In raising calves they should always have a good start, and for this pur- 
 pose I know of nothing equal to milk as it is drawn from the cow. Some 
 people recommend separating the calf from the cow a day or two after it is 
 dropped. I think it should be allowed to run with the cow and have all 
 the milk it can take for at least four or five days. Ordinarily the cows milk 
 will not be in a proper condition for human food under four or five days from 
 the time of dropping her calf, though many dairymen who are anxious to 
 make the most out of the milk insist that it is good enough for cheese-making 
 at the fourth milking. 
 
 After the calf is taken from the cow it should be generously fed with new 
 milk until it is two weeks old at least. This should be the earliest period at 
 which the commencement of any substitute for new milk ought to be given. 
 I should prefer to feed new milk for some time longer, but still very good 
 calves may be raised by compounding a food for them a little less expensive 
 than new milk. 
 
 If skim milk can now be afforded, the calves will thrive on liberal feeding, 
 but the cheese dairymen often feel that even skim milk is too expensive to be 
 long continued, and are not satisfied till the diet of the calf is reduced to whey. 
 Now, if whey and oil meal be properly prepared, it can be made to sei've as 
 a very good substitute for milk. The whey should be dipped off" when sweet 
 from the vat, then bring it to the boiling point and turn it upon the oil meal. 
 Let the mixture stand till night, and then feed. In the morning, whey sweet 
 from the vat may be fed. At the commencement a little less than a pint of 
 oil meal per day will be sufficient for four calves. This may be gradually 
 increased till each calf has a daily ration of half a pint. At first it is better 
 not to feed calves all the whey they Avill drink at a time. A large feed of 
 whey cloys the appetite and deranges the health. A half pail of whey at 
 first is enough for a feed, which may be increased to three-fourths of a pail 
 and a pail, as the calf increases in age. Two meals a day, if the calf runs in 
 a good pasture, is sufficient. Calves fed in this way ought not to be weaned 
 until they can get a good bite of afterfeed from the early cut meadows. It 
 is important to keep them in a growing, thrifty condition, with no check. 
 When weaned earlier, their growth is often checked by reason of short, dry 
 or innutritions feed in pastures. When whey cannot be had, the following 
 substitute for milk in feeding calves is recommended by the Irish Farmers' 
 Gazette: — "Take three quarts of linseed meal and four quarts of bean meal, 
 and mix with thirty quarts of boiling water, when it is left to digest for 
 twenty-four hours, and it is then poured into a boiler on the fire, having 
 thirty-one quarts of boiling water. It is here boiled for half an hour, being 
 
148 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 stirred with a perforated paddle to prevent lumps and produce perfect incor- 
 poration. It is then set aside to cool, and is given blood warm. When first 
 used it is mixed with milk in small quantity. The milk is gradually decreased 
 till they get the mucilage only. Indian meal may be given in place of bean 
 meal, and perhaps pea meal would serve the same purpose as bean meal, the 
 latter not being common in this country. I have used buckwheat meal 
 cooked into a porridge and added to whey, for calves, with good results, and 
 I have no doubt that buckwheat meal could be substituted for bean meal in 
 the mixture, and make a good feed. It is desirable and important to feed the 
 calf well and hasten the maturity of the young animal so that it will come in 
 milk at two years old. Many complain that they are unable to have their 
 heifers in milk until three years of age. Heifers coming in milk at two years 
 of age invariably make better milkers than those coming in milk a year later, 
 to say nothing of the profit of one season's milk. It will be seen, then, that 
 a little extra care and feed pays well, in order to an early maturity of the 
 animal." 
 
 Mr. Brown of Herkimer Co. prefers March calves in selecting stock to raise. 
 The calves are fed new milk for two weeks, at the rate of eight quarts per day 
 each. After this, commence adding whey to the milk, and feed in this way 
 up to the twentieth of April. By this time, if there is a suflicient quantity of 
 whey made daily, no milk is given, but oil meal is made to take the place of 
 milk, the quantity for each calf being at the rate of one-half pint of dry meal 
 per day. Boiling water is turned upon the meal, which increases its bulk, 
 in a few minutes, to three times the quantity of dry meal. It is then mixed 
 with the scalding whey, and when sufiicienlly cool given to the calves. 
 About three-fourths of a pail of whey to each at a mess, and two feeds per 
 day are deemed sufiicient. The calves are turned out to grass as soon as a 
 good bite can be had, but the M^hey and oil meal are allowed daily until the 
 time for turning into good fresh after feed, when its use is discontinued and 
 the calves weaned. In this way good thrifty calves are raised, which winter 
 well, and to all appearance are as healthy and in as good growing condition 
 as though they had been raised on milk. The calves are always provided 
 with a good shelter where they can go at will, out of storms. When oil 
 meal cannot be had, oat meal is substituted, at the rate of two-thirds of a 
 pint for each per day. The whey should be scalded, as in this condition it is 
 better adapted to the anirual, and has a tendency to prevent scouring. 
 
 RAISING CALVES ON THE SOILING PRINCIPLE. 
 
 Mr. G. D. Curtis of Wisconsin, contributes the following to the Boston 
 Cultivator : — " About the first of April last, I began raising ten heifer calves 
 for the dairy — taught them to drink at three or four days old, and fed them 
 the milk of five cows, two hundred weight corn meal, and what hay they 
 would eat, till May 15th. Milk and meal were then discontinued, and for the 
 next two months they had about ten quarts sweet whey per head a day, and 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 149 
 
 what clover and orchard grass they would eat, fed three times a day, of which 
 they consumed half an acre. The next sixty-three days they were fed the 
 sowed corn that grew on one-half an acre, and the same allowance of whey 
 as at first. About the twentieth of September they were turned into wheat- 
 stubble ground, seeded to grass last spring. When six months old the 
 heaviest one weighed four hundred and thirty pounds," live weight, and the 
 lot averaged four hundred pounds per head. The expense of cutting and 
 feeding the grass and cornstalks was about the same as harvesting and thresh- 
 ing an acre of wheat. 
 
 The milk fed, if made into cheese, $55.00 
 
 Two hundred weight corn meal at 16s, 4.00 
 
 Hay, estimated, 1.00 
 
 One acre land to wheat would have brought, 30.00 
 
 Value of whey, say 10.00 
 
 Eight tons of hay to winter them, 40.00 
 
 Total one year, $140.00 
 
 Equal to about fourteen dollars per head for yearlings, — about double the 
 cost of ' peace prices.' 
 
 " I have been engaged in dairying and stock-raising for the past twenty 
 years, and have tried nearly all the different ways of feeding calves, and 
 consider the experiment of the past season much the best. It produces very 
 superior animals, and is no more expensive than the other plans." 
 
 CALF SKINS. 
 
 When calves are to be slaughtered for veal, or killed at a very early age, 
 as is common in some dairy sections (in the latter case the hide and rennet 
 only being saved), some attention should be given to stripping off the hide 
 properly, and preparing it for market. 
 
 Calves that are to be "deaconed" should be allowed to live at least four 
 or five days, and when killed the throat should not be cut crossways, for it 
 can be bled just as well without. The skin should then be removed by slitting 
 the hide from the middle of the under jaw to the root of the tail, and down the 
 inside of the forelegs from between the dew-claws to the slit already made, 
 and down the outside of the hind legs over the gambrel joint, and then direct 
 to a point in the slit first named, midway between the teats and the roots of 
 the tail. It is the safest way to draw the skin off with a windlass or a horse, 
 but when this is inconvenient great care should be taken not to cut or hack 
 the skin, as a cut part way through the skin is quite as bad as a hole. Instead 
 of a knife for removing the skin, a bone or hard wood instrument shaped like a 
 knife should be used, as it can be done almost if not quite as rapidly and with 
 no danger to the skins. If the skin be a veal it should now be weighed and 
 the weight marked down, as veal skins are purchased by the pound. But 
 whether a " deacon " or a " veal " it should be stretched out on the floor or 
 some level place, and about two pounds of salt applied, taking care that 
 
150 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 every spot is touched. The better way is, after sprinkling the skin as evenly 
 as possible, to take an old brush or the hand and rub the salt thoroughly in. 
 After lying for a day or two, if in the way, it should be hung up and allowed 
 to dry under cover, but not exposed to the sun. If the skins are on hand 
 after the first of June, they should be fx'equently whipped, to prevent the 
 working of moths. The taking off and care of skins should not be left to 
 young and careless boys, but should receive the personal attention of the 
 farmer, or some trusty person. For skins taken off in the above manner and 
 free from cuts, the tanner can afford to pay a price considerably above the 
 market for ordinary skins as they run. Damaged, " slunk and dead skins," 
 have a value, but should be sold as such for what they are worth. 
 
 HOVEN IN CATTLE. 
 
 Among the many diseases of dairy stock, hoven^ or hove, as it is usually 
 termed, is of frequent occurrence. It is induced by a sudden change of diet, 
 as when animals in spring are turned from hay upon luxuriant pasturage, or 
 later in the season, by changing from the pasture to a full growth of after- 
 feed in meadows. Cows, when thus turned into fresh herbage, devour it 
 greedily, which produces over-distension of the rumen, followed quickly by 
 hove. A similar derangement of the digestive functions sometimes happens, 
 it is said, from feeding turnips, though the more frequent occurrence of this 
 disease coming under our observation, has been from a change of diet, and 
 where the animals have been allowed to gorge themselves upon luxuriant 
 grass. The food in such cases is imperfectly matured, the stomach becomes 
 loaded, the process of rumination is prevented, decomposition takes place, 
 gas is generated, and the animal becomes swollen with confined air that dis- 
 tends the paunch and intestines. 
 
 Great care should be exercised in the management of stock at the partic- 
 ular seasons referred to, since with proper precautions, the malady may often 
 be avoided. It is always best that the change of food should be brought about 
 by degrees, allowing the cows at first to take only a part of a meal, and con- 
 tinuing in this course for a few days until they have become somewhat 
 accustomed to the fresh grass. In spring, after having been restricted during 
 our long winters to dry food, a sudden change to a full supply of succulent 
 food will be apt to derange health, even if the animals by chance escape an 
 attack of hove. It will be well, too, on first turning to grass, that it be done 
 at such times as when the weather is dry and the herbage is not covered with 
 dew ; and this rule should be particularly observed on first turning stock into 
 luxuriant aftermath. 
 
 There is scarcely a dairyman of any considerable experience but has had 
 cases of hove more or less severe among his cows — and the loss of valuable 
 animals on account of the malady is of frequent occurrence. Indeed hove is 
 so sudden in its attack and the disease progresses so rapidly, that unless 
 speedy relief is given the animal dies. The fermentation which the food 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 151 
 
 undergoes is facilitated by the heat and moisture to which it is exposed while 
 in the rumen. The gaseous compounds produced by the fermenting process 
 vary according to its duration ; at first carbonic acid gas is evolved, but in 
 a short time this product gives place to carbureted hydrogen gas. 
 
 Various medicines have from time to time been recommended, but scarcely 
 any, with the exception of chloride of lime, is of much avail. When the 
 attack is not severe the animal often recovers without any assistance. 
 Chloride of lime is frequently found effectual in bad cases, administered in 
 a small quantity of water, the dose of chlorinated lime being from three to 
 four drachms. Used in time it effectually neutralizes the carbureted hydrogen 
 gas. In its action the chlorine quits the lime and unites with the hydrogen 
 and forms a substance — muriatic acid — with which the new uncombined lime 
 unites, and the result is a harmless substance — muriate of lime. 
 
 In severe cases there should be no delay in adopting the necessary treat- 
 ment, or the animal may be lost, for 
 death in this disease is caused by 
 suffocation. Immediate relief is given 
 by puncturing the rumen, a quite 
 simple operation when it is under- 
 stood, and one which should always 
 be resorted to in bad cases. As the 
 disease is of such a character that no 
 time is to be lost (for if the animal is 
 Fio. 1. to be saved, prompt action is re- 
 
 quired), every farmer should understand the nature of the operation and be 
 able to perform it. By observing the following diagrams but little difficulty 
 need be had in operating successfully. 
 
 It is important to bear in mind that the operation should always be per- 
 formed on the left side of the animal, in consequence of the inclination of the 
 rumen to that part of the abdominal cavity. Figure 1 is a sketch intended 
 to represent the first stomach in its natural situation ; a, the anterior pouch ; 
 J, the anterior-posterior, the one which is opened in these cases / c, the mid- 
 dle, and (?, the posterior-inferior. 
 
 The place of puncture is in the flank about three inches below the spinal 
 column, and mid-way between the last rib and the hip. 
 
 The instrument recommended by veterinary sugeons is called a trocar ; 
 it consists of a stilet, having a lancet-shaped 
 point and a sheath. We give Professor 
 SiMONDs' directions, as follows : 
 
 " The stilet should be about six inches in length, and when placed within 
 the sheath it should protrude about three-fourths of an inch ; its diameter 
 may vary from three-eighths of an inch to half an inch. In performing the 
 operation it is best to first puncture the skin with a lancet ; which having 
 been done, insert the point of the instrument in the wound and thrust the 
 
152 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 stilet covered by the metal sheath inwards and slightly downwards, using 
 sufficient force to penetrate the coats of the rumen ; afterwards withdraw the 
 stilet leaving the sheath in the situation. The sheath is to remain until the gas 
 has escaped, when it is to be removed and the edges of the wound in the 
 skin brought together by a stitch of strong silk." 
 
 As farmers are not usually provided with the proper instruments for per- 
 forming the operation, a dirk-bladed 
 knife may be used, and a quill or any 
 small tube introduced into the punc- 
 ture for the escape of the offending 
 gas. There is no danger attending 
 the operation when the proper instru- 
 ment is used. 
 
 Figure 2 represents the point where 
 puncture should be made — at the 
 point where the lines a, h and c, d 
 intersect each other. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 HUTCHINS' rUMIGATOR FOR DESTROYING LICE ON CATTLE. 
 
 The fumigator consists of an iron cylinder with a circular bellows attached 
 to one end, and the opposite end is 
 contracted into a nozzle, so as to be 
 easily inserted into the wool when 
 using it for sheep ticks. It also has 
 sieves at each end of the cylinder to 
 prevent the fire passing into the bel- 
 lows or out through the nozzle ; by 
 this means the smoke is never hot enough to do the least injury to animal 
 or plant. 
 
 The cylinder being filled with cut tobacco and pressed down a little, same 
 as you would fill a tobacco pipe, is ignited on top, and the smoke is forced 
 out through the nozzle by the action of the bellows. 
 
 For ticks on sheep, introduce the nozzle into the wool, and give one or two 
 good pufis ; then move it from two to four inches, and puif again, and so on 
 till you fill the fleece with smoke. It will take from two to four hours to 
 smoke one hundred sheep, and one pound of tobacco will be sufficient for that 
 number. 
 
 To kill lice on cattle, colts, &c., fill the hair with the smoke, then blanket 
 them. In all cases go over them again after the nits hatch. It is better to 
 take sheep into the open air to smoke them to prevent it making the operator 
 sick. 
 
 For lice on plants and bushes of all kinds, also for the currant worm, 
 squash bug, &c., cover the bushes or plants with some old clothes box, or 
 anything to hold the smoke, then give them a good smoking ; it will not 
 injure the plant, but will kill the vermin. 
 
MILK. 
 
 Of all the vai'ious foods used for the support of human life milk is one of 
 the most perfect. It is almost the only food that will, when used alone, 
 support life, and maintain health and vigor for an indefinite length of time. 
 The earliest records of our race tell us of flocks and herds, and it may be 
 assumed that not only the milk of animals but that the products of milk, in 
 some form, have been employed in the diet of man from the most remote 
 times. But while milk has been the natural food of the young of ali mam- 
 malia, and while it Las been, for ages, both in its natural and manufactured 
 state, a blessing to the poor and a luxury to the rich, little was known com- 
 paratively of its composition, and of its behavior under certain peculiar 
 conditions, until within the last half century. 
 
 Milk is described by the chemists as a secretion produced from the 
 elements of blood and chyle, by the mammary gland of the female animal of 
 the order, majwinalia^ after giving birth to young. It is a whitish, opaque 
 liquid, of an agreeable, sweetish taste, and a faint but peculiar odor. It is 
 slightly denser than water. Cows' milk of good quality has a specific gravity 
 of about 1,030; woman's milk, 1,020 ; goat's and ewe's milk, 1,035 to 1,042; 
 and asses' milk 1,019; that of water being 1,000. Whatever food has the 
 efiect of inducing the secretion of a very large amount of water, must 
 necessarily give milk poor in quality. Such is the efiect when food is supplied 
 of distillers' grains, grass from irrigated meadows, acid slops, obtained by 
 allowing barley meal, cabbage leaves, and other vegetable matter mixed with 
 a great deal of water, to pass through the lactic acid fermentation. There 
 cannot be much question but that whey may be added to this class of food, 
 though there seems to be great difference of opinion among those who feed 
 whey to milch cows, as to its materially affecting the proportion of solid 
 constituents of the milk. We need a series of carefully conducted experi- 
 ments to satisfactorily determine this matter and put the question at rest. 
 Dr. VoELCKER is led to conclude from his experiments that milk is rich when 
 it contains twelve per cent, of solid matter and about three per cent of pure 
 fat. Anything above this is of extra rich quality. 
 
154 
 
 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 SPECIFIC GEAVITT A TEST OE QUALITY. 
 
 The specific gravity of milk is an important test of its quality. From 
 experiments made in the Doctor's laboratory, for the pm-pose of ascertaioing 
 the influence of dilution upon the specific gravity of milk, and the quantity 
 of cream thrown uj), some useful hints are obtained. Water being the 
 standard at 1.000, cream 1.012 to 1.019, and good milk 1.0320, the tempera- 
 ture always being 62° Farenheit, the following results were obtained: 
 
 Specipic Gkavitt 
 
 Per Cent. Cbeah 
 IN Bulk. 
 
 Pure Milk at 62° Fahrenheit 
 
 " " and 10 per cent, of water, 
 
 " " 20 
 " " " 30 
 
 " " 40 
 " " " 50 " " 
 
 1.0320 
 1.0315 
 1.0305 
 1.0290 
 1.0190 
 1.0160 
 
 UK 
 10 
 
 Experiments with the hydrometer and direct weighing give the following ; 
 
 Specific Gravity at 62 o before 
 Skimming. 
 
 Specific Gravitt 
 
 at 62 o f. after 
 
 Skimming. 
 
 By Htdkometer. 
 
 By Direct 
 Weighing. 
 
 By Direct 
 Weighing. 
 
 Pure Milli,. 
 
 -|- 10 per cent, of water,. 
 
 -1-20 " " . . 
 
 -1-30 
 
 --40 
 
 --50 
 
 1.0320 
 1.0285 
 1.0250 
 1.0235 
 1.0200 
 1.0170 
 
 1.03141 
 
 1.0295 
 
 1.0257 
 
 1.0233 
 
 1.0190 
 
 1.0163 
 
 1.0337 
 1.0308 
 1.0265 
 1.0248 
 1.0208 
 1.0175 
 
 Another experiment made upon skimmed milk with hydrometer gave the 
 
 nwincr ' 
 
 following 
 
 Specific Gratitt. 
 
 Skim Milk,. 
 
 with 10 per cent, of water,. 
 20 
 30 
 40 
 50 
 
 1.0350 
 1.0320 
 1.0265 
 1.0248 
 1.0210 
 1.0180 
 
 From these investigations the following conclusions are drawn : 
 
 1. That good new milk has a specific gravity of about 1.030. 
 
 2. That skim milk is a little more dense, being about 1.034. 
 
 3. That milk which has a specific gravity of 1.025 or less, is either mixed 
 with water or is naturally very poor. 
 
 4. That when milk is deprived of about ten per cent, of cream and the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 155 
 
 original volume is made up by ten per cent, of water, the specific gravity of 
 such skimmed and watered milk is about the same as that of good new milk ; 
 this circumstance however, does not constitute any serious objection to the 
 hydrometer or lactometer, as milk skimmed to that extent cannot be mixed 
 with water without becoming so blue and transparent that no instrument 
 would be required to detect the adulteration. 
 
 5. That when unskimmed milk is mixed with only twenty per cent, of 
 water, the admixture is indicated at once by the specific gravity of about 
 1.025. 
 
 Mr. Flint gives the result of a test of difierent specimens of milk, the 
 hydrometer and lactometer being used on the morning's milk, at a tempera- 
 ture of of sixty degrees. The scale was graduated for pure milk at one hun- 
 dred degrees. 
 
 The first pint drawn from a native cow stood at 101 Degrees. 
 
 Strippings of same cow, 86 " 
 
 Milk of pure bred Jersey, 95 " 
 
 " " " Ayrshire, 100 
 
 " " " Hereford, 106 
 
 " " " Devon, Ill " 
 
 While their cream stood, 66 " 
 
 All these specimens of milk were pure, and milked at the same time in 
 the morning, carefully labeled, put in separate vessels, and set upon the same 
 shelf to cool off; and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to 
 twenty-five degrees ; or, taking the average quality of the native cow's milk 
 at ninety-three and one-half degrees, the variations amounted to seventeen 
 and one-half degrees. ■ But knowing the specific gravity at the outset, of any 
 specimen of milk, the hydrometer would show the amount of water added. 
 This cheap and simple instrument is therefore of frequent service. At the 
 cheese and butter factories the lactometer and cream gauges are the only 
 instruments employed to determine whether milk is delivered pure or has 
 been watered. It is found that notwithstanding the milk of different cows 
 in the same herd will vary considerably in specific gravity, still when it is all 
 massed together, the specific gravity of such milk, if compared with the milk 
 of different herds of a neighborhood, will be very nearly the same. It is 
 from this fact that the attempt has been made in New York to establish the 
 lactometer test as competent evidence in the courts, and some of the lower 
 courts have so ruled. 
 
 LACTOMETER IN COURT. 
 
 An interesting and important case was tried in 1868 at the Circuit Court 
 held at Herkimer, Judge Foster presiding, as to whether the hydrometer or 
 lactometer, as it is commonly called, be or be not a reliable milk test, and 
 alone competent to convict where the instrument indicates watered milk. The 
 suit was brought by the Treasurer of the Frankfort cheese factory against 
 one of its patrons, to recover a penalty for alleged violations of the law to 
 
156 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 prevent adulteration or watering of milk. The plaintiff claimed that the 
 defendant at certain times during the year 1865 brought to the factory milk 
 which, when tested there by the hydrometer and cream gauges, indicated from 
 twelve to seventeen per cent, less specific gravity than pure milk, and hence 
 that it had been diluted with water. No other proof was in evidence except 
 the tests of the instruments at the factory as above named. The defendant 
 denied the allegation, and he and his three sons testified that the milking and " 
 
 Lactometer. 
 
 o 
 
 Theemometbk— Nickel Plated, 
 
 Floating Theemometeb. 
 
 carrying the milk to the factory had been done by them, and that no water, 
 to their knowledge, had ever been added to the milk. 
 
 The witnesses on the part of the plaintiff were the manager of the factory 
 and some of its patrons, together with several managers of factories from 
 different parts of the country and Canada, of large experience and of high 
 reputation. The plaintiff proved the testing of defendant's milk at the fac- 
 tory by the hydrometer and cream gauges — that it was deficient in cream 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 157 
 
 and indicated by the hydrometer from twelve to fifteen per cent, of water. 
 Several managers of factories stated that where the tests were applied to the 
 milk known to be pure, from different dairies, the variations were generally 
 no more than from two to three per cent, from the standard of pure milk. 
 Several of them testified also, that they regarded the lactometer to be per- 
 fectly reliable as a milk test, and that this conclusion had been arrived at from 
 hundreds and even thousands of tests of milk from dairies as it came to the 
 factory. The plaintiff's counsel attempted to show from reported analyses 
 of milk, and from other sources, that the variable constituents of milk, for 
 the most part, were the cream and the water, both of which were lighter 
 than pure milk, that consequently, where there was a deficiency of cream and 
 the specific gravity was less than pure milk, as had been shown in the milk 
 furnished by the defendant, it could be accounted for in no other way than 
 from adulteration or watering the milk. 
 
 The defense took the ground that the hydrometer was a mere float, well 
 adapted to determine the specific gravity of fluids and of milk, but that 
 the latter being made up of several constituents, all of which were liable 
 to vary from time to time, the specific gravity of the compound at the 
 factory gave no positive evidence of its quality as it came from the cow, unless 
 such quality had been clearly ascertained as a standard from which to make 
 comparisons. It was proved by several witnesses that in testing milk known 
 to be pure, from different cows, with the hydrometer, there was considerable 
 variation, sometimes as much as ten per cent.; and this variation had occured 
 where the cows were of the same breed, fed on the same kind of food, and 
 general treatment alike. It was proved from the books and from witnesses 
 that the quality of milk is affected by various circumstances, such as difference 
 of breed of the cows, quantity and quality of food, distance from time of 
 calving, withholding salt for a time, and then salting, health of stock, general 
 treatment, &c. From Voelcker's analysis of four samples of new milk, it 
 was shown that the water varied from 83.90 in one himdred parts, the butter 
 from 7.62 to 1.99, the caseine from 3.66 to 2.94, the milk sugar from 4.46 to 
 6.12, and the mineral matter from .64 to 1.13, making percentage of dry 
 matters vary from 16.10 to 10.05. 
 
 Another analysis of several specimens of milk was referred to in the 
 Keport of the Department of Agriculture, where the difference in constituents 
 was considerable, one specimen showing 93.0 of water, 1.8 of butter, 3.4 of 
 casein, .8 milk sugar, and .1 of salts— thus making a variation of water 
 between that and the specimen analyzed by Voelcker of over nine per cent. 
 The milk sugar varied nearly five per cent., and the ash over one per cent. 
 It was proved also that in making tests of milk with the hydrometer, great 
 care was necessary in having the temperature exact, and in having the milk 
 thoroughly mingled or stirred together, since the upper portion of the milk 
 was of less specific gravity than that at the bottom. 
 
 One of the witnesses testified to the following experiments made with 
 
158 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the milk of different cows in his own dairy. I was present at the tests, 
 and 'helped to conduct the experiments : 
 
 First. A heifer's milk at 80°, when tried with the hydrometer marked the 
 instrument i° below zero, showing five per cent, variation from pure milk. 
 
 Second. Milk of cow eight years old at 80°, hydrometer stood i° below 
 zero, a variation of two and a-half per cent, from pure milk. 
 
 Third. Milk of all the cows mingled together in the vat at 80° ; hydro- 
 meter f° above zero, showing a variation of 3.75 per cent. 
 
 Fourth. Thin cream at 80°, taken from night's milk in the vat; hydro- 
 meter sunk below 10°, or the point graduated as pure water. 
 
 Fifth. Milk at 60°, taken from near the bottom of the vat, and where the 
 whole depth of milk in the vat was only four inches ; hydrometer stood 1 ° 
 below zero, showing ten per cent, variation from pure milk line. 
 
 Sixth. A portion of the above milk in the vat, taken from the top at 60° ; 
 hydrometer stood f ° below zero, or 3.75 per cent, variation. 
 
 Seventh. The above milk thoroughly stirred and mingled together in the 
 vat, and at 60° ; hydrometer |° below zero, or 7^ per cent, variation. 
 
 Eighth. The same milk above, stirred together and raised to 80° ; hydro- 
 meter ^° above zero, or one and a quarter per cent, lighter than pure milk. 
 
 Ninth. Milk from twelve years old cow at 80°; hydrometer |° above 
 zero, showing five per cent, water. 
 
 Tenth. Milk from eight years old cow at 80° ; hydrometer stood at zero, 
 or pure milk mark. 
 
 Eleventh. Milk from a two years old heifer at 80° temperature; hydro- 
 meter |-° above zero, or five per cent, variation. 
 
 Twelfth. Milk from a two years old heifer, 80° temperature ; hydrometer 
 i° above zero, or two and a-half per cent, variation. 
 
 Greatest variation in milk of different cows as above tested at 80° tem- 
 perature, one degree or ten per cent. 
 
 For every 2.28° of temperature the hydrometer marked one per cent, 
 variation. 
 
 I have thus given some of the leading points as brought out in this 
 case in regard to the hydrometer or lactometer. The arguments of counsel 
 on both sides were able, as was also the Judge's charge to the jury, which, 
 after a mature deliberation, brought in a verdict for the defendant, thus 
 settling the question that the hydrometer alone, in cases of this kind, is not 
 sufficient to convict. 
 
 ^ The Court House was densely crowded and great interest manifested by 
 dairymen and others during the whole time this case was being tried, which 
 lasted two days. Counsel for plaintiff, Hon. R. Earl and Brother, of Herki- 
 mer; for defendant, Hon. Roscoe Conkling and Hon. F. Keenan. I 
 may remark here, in closing, that the result of this suit does not lessen the 
 value of the hydrometer and cream gauges in the hands of intelligent persons. 
 They act as sentinels, warning the operator of any unusual condition of the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 159 
 
 milk, and when such occurs he should not hastily jumi? at conclusions, but look 
 carefully at all the causes likely to have influence in the case, and then make up 
 his judgment upon them. 
 
 TEST OF "WATERED MILK. 
 
 In making a test for watered milk, two equal glass jars or cream gauges 
 are taken, and a small jar which is graduated and used for a one per cent, 
 glass. ISTow one of the cream gauges is filled to gauge mark, ten, with milk 
 which is known to be pure and drawn from several cows. This will be the 
 standard for pure milk for that day. Fill the other glass, to the same number, 
 
 .10 
 
 -20 
 
 t 30 
 
 .10 
 
 -20 
 
 .30 
 
 Ceeam Gauge. Per Cent. Glass. Cbeasi Gauge. 
 
 with milk from the can you wish to test. To avoid any mistake, mark the 
 first jar pure milk, by putting the letters P. M. on the side or bottom. Set 
 the jars away, side by side, a sufficient length of time for the cream to rise. 
 Now note the quantity of cream on each. If a less quantity is found on the 
 milk you are testing than on the other, it indicates dilution or skimmed milk. 
 Now remove the cream from each with a spoon; introduce the hydrometer 
 or lactometer into the jar marked P. M. and note on the scale mark where it 
 
160 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 floats. Now place the hydrometer into the other. If it sinks lower than in 
 the first, it is very strong evidence of dilution with water. Replace the' 
 lactometer in jar marked P. M. and from per cent, glass filled with water 
 exactly to or zero, pour into P. M. jar until the lactometer sinks exactly to 
 the same point as in the other jar. Now count or number on per cent, glass 
 from zero down (each mark represents half of one per cent.), and you will 
 have precisely the percentage of water with which the milk you are testing 
 has been diluted. Care must be taken to have the temperature of the samples 
 the same. 
 
 EECENT MILK TESTS, 
 
 The subjoined results of milk examinations made during the present year, 
 1871, by Mr. J. A. Waukltn, member of the Royal Bavarian Academy of 
 Sciences, and published in the London Milk Journal, will be of interest in 
 this connection : — " In making examinations of milk for sanitary or commer- 
 cial purposes, it is customary to use determinations of specific gravity as 
 indices of the strength of milk. It is, howevei-, recognized that owing to 
 the circumstance of cream being lighter than water, while skimmed milk is 
 heavier, the indication of strength afforded by a determination of specific 
 gravity is not very precise. Obviously, if in addition to the specific gravity, 
 the percentage of cream were taken, a connection could be applied so as to 
 rectify the indication of strength derived from specific gravity. In the course 
 of an examination of milk, undertaken for this Journal, the observation was 
 made that there is another source of inaccuracy hitherto quite unsuspected. 
 Skimmed milk consists mainly of water, caseine, milk-sugar, and a small 
 quantity of mineral salts. Now, the exact molecular condition of the caseine 
 influences the specific gravity of milk. In other words, samjiles of milk of 
 the same strength will vary in specific gravity according to the exact mole- 
 cular condition of the caseine. Especially are these changes in condition 
 brought out if milk be kept for a while. This is illustrated by the following 
 examples. 
 
 " In attempting to analyse articles of general consumption, with a view to 
 determine the extent of adulteration, it is necessary to operate on a large 
 number of samples obtained from bona fide purchasers, and to adopt means 
 calculated to ensure comparable results. We do not intend on this occasion 
 to enter fully into the subject of milk analysis, but we may state that plans 
 commonly adopted are of little worth. We have had to notice the untrust- 
 worthiness of specific gravity determinations of milk — that is to say, the 
 danger of judging of the strength of milk by its specific gravity. To be of any 
 value at all, the specific gravity determination must be made while the sample 
 of milk is very fresh. After milk has been kept for two or three' days, even 
 in a closed vessel, its specific gravity falls in a very remarkable manner. The 
 following examples exhibit this in an extreme form. The specimens of milk 
 had been kept in corked bottles for four days : 
 
Pb. ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 161 
 
 Sample «, 
 
 Showing that the highest specific gravity sometimes accomisanies the lowest 
 percentage of solids. The reason of this want of correspondence between 
 specific gravity and solid contents we have already explained. Meanwhile, 
 in judging of the strength of milk, we propose to adhere to the method of 
 evaporating to dryness in the water-bath, and weighing the residue. 
 
 " We have examined seven samples of milk sent to us by diflferent persons, 
 with a request that they should be examined. We have found in one hundred 
 parts by weight of each, as follows : 
 
 No. 1, 
 2, 
 3, 
 4, 
 5, 
 6, 
 7, 
 
 " The sample No. 6 is a gross case of dilution. It is milk supplied to a 
 workman's family in Bethnal-green, and contains no less than four parts of 
 water to six of milk. Samples Nos. 5 and 7 are not so bad, but unless dilu- 
 tion had been practiced, the milks were exceedingly and abnormally poor. 
 
 " We recently obtained a specimen of country milk from the Dairy Reform 
 Company. We procured it in the perfect confidence that, if pure unadulterated 
 milk can be obtained from any source, it can be obtained from this admirably- 
 managed association. The specific gravity was 1024.8, taken with great care 
 with an accurate balance, at a temperature of 60® Fahr. As a crucial test 
 we sent a special messenger to the Victoria Dairy, in Union Street, Hackney, 
 to obtain four samples of milk from one cow. We wished to test the milk as 
 drawn straight into the sample bottles from each quarter of the udder. The 
 results were : 
 
 Sp. gr., at 
 60° Falir. 
 
 Right side, front quarter 1020.4 
 
 Leftside, " " 1021.3 
 
 Right side, hind quarter ^. ., 1023.0 
 
 Leftside, " " 1023.5 
 
 "The cows in this dairy are well cared for, and fed on meal, clover, and 
 other foods calculated to give a good qualitv of milk ; but we thought the 
 11 
 
162 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 drawing of the first portions of milk from each quarter would scarcely give 
 fair samples, since the strippings are always richer. We have also obtained, 
 as the result of the strippings from all the quarters, milk with a specific 
 gravity of 1025.1. When, therefore, a great deal is made of very high 
 specific gravities, we can only say, from a milk consumer's point of view, that 
 the results must be accepted with due caution. 
 
 " We rely more for practical purposes on careful weighings of the solids 
 obtained directly from milk at the boiling point of water, and of the ash, 
 after carefully burning the same solids. The results are most satisfactory ; 
 and we have examined samples from several dairymen in Kensington, which 
 prove that the milk dealers are far from being the very black sheep they are 
 so commonly represented to be. Last month we had to record very poor 
 results, and we should have exposed one or two of the most shameful cases 
 of dilution had we the ojjportunity of repeated examinations. This month 
 we have been more fortunate in every respect, as the subjoined list indicates : 
 
 Total Solids 
 Najsie and Address. dried at SIS'' 
 
 Fahr. 
 
 Ash. 
 
 Tunks and Tisdall, Newland Terrace, Kensington. . . , 
 
 Clarke, Kensington Place, High Street 
 
 Watson, Russell Gardens, Addison Road, Kensington. 
 
 Lunn, Cliurcli-street, Kensington 
 
 Kniglit, High-street, Kensington 
 
 13.12 
 13.16 
 12.51 
 12.47 
 11.25 
 
 0.61 
 0.65 
 0.66 
 0.76 
 0.74 
 
 "These are fair samples. The first four are virtually alike, and undoubt- 
 edly rich. The last sample of milk is poor. 
 
 " A sample of milk direct from the cow, obtained from the Victoria Dairy, 
 gave: 
 
 Total solids. Ash. 
 
 13.60 0.75 
 
 " This is very rich, and ' strippings ' above referred to, with sp. gr. of 
 1025.1, yielded 
 
 Solids. Ash. 
 18.74 0.63 
 
 " No comment is needed when these results are compared with many 
 published analyses. 
 
 SPONTAlsrEGUS CHANGES IN MILK. 
 
 " The remarkable diminution which the specific gravity of milk undergoes 
 on keeping, noticed in last month's Journal, induced us to study the changes 
 occurring in milk from the moment it is drawn. As it comes from the cow it 
 is at the temperature of the body, viz., about 100® Fahr., and in the most 
 perfect state of emulsion. There are some material difierences in the chemi- 
 cal composition and physical characters of different portions drawn in succes- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 163 
 
 sive quantities into separate vessels in the "one act of milking. Thus a sample 
 —the first eight ounces of milk drawn direct into a bottle gave : 
 
 lu 100 parts 17.33 solids. 0.70 ash. 
 
 The specific gravity taken the same day at 60* was 1020.4. The specific 
 gravity taken two days later at 60° Fahr. was 1030.2. 
 
 "An average sample of the same cow's milk taken the next day, with due 
 care that the Avhole secreted by the one quarter of the udder was drawn ofi" 
 and well mixed, yielded : 
 
 In 100 parts 13.60 solids 0.75 ash. 
 
 The specific gravity at 60° Fahr., was 1031.3. 
 
 " Lastly, the ' strippings,' after drawing the sample which gave the last 
 result, and having well milked the cow, showed : 
 
 In 100 parts 18.74 solids 0.62 ash. 
 
 The specific gravity at 60° Fahr. was 1024.6. 
 
 " From the whole course of our experiments, it appears that the first 
 change which milk experiences is a contraction. Specific gravity 1020 becomes 
 specific gravity 1030. The next change is expansion— and this occupies some 
 days— which is manifested by the specific gravity sometimes falling below 
 1000. We reserve further details for a future number. We have said enough 
 to caution people against trusting to the lactometer in determining the 
 nutritive value of milk." 
 
 ABSORPTIVE PROPERTIES OF MILK. 
 
 The following note on the remarkable properties of milk in absorbing 
 and retaining exhalations such as those of tar, carbolic acid, and other ill- 
 smelling substances, is from the pen of Mr. Lawson Tait, F.R.C.S., of Bir- 
 mingham. He writes : " In the month of April last I was engaged with my 
 friend Mr. M. E. Naylor, veterinary surgeon, in examining the conditions 
 attending the spread of the foot and mouth disease in the West Riding; and, 
 amongst other stations of sufiering, we visited the farm attached to the West 
 Riding Lunatic Asylum, under the superintendence of my distinguished 
 friend Dr. Crichton- Browne. I had a long conversation with the intelli- 
 gent farm bailifi; Mr. Turner ; and, amongst other experiences I tasted the 
 diseased milk. I found that this had a peculiarly disagreeable, smoky taste, 
 and at first I rashly set this down as due to the disease of the cows. I found, 
 however, that this smoky taint was by no means confined to the milk yielded 
 by the afiected animals ; and Dr. Browne told me that he had sometimes 
 occasion to send away milk and cream from his table, which was unfit to use 
 an account of this smoky taste. A little examination further showed us that 
 this flavoring was due to the recent asphalting which had been done in and 
 near the milk-house. It at once flashed across my mind that, if milk acquired 
 this tarry flavor from absorption of the exhalations of asphaltum, it was just 
 
164 Fk-ACtical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 possible it might also acquire other things which were not so innocuous ; and 
 I at once set going a series of experiments which have led me to the belief 
 that milk is an extremely dangerous agent for the spread of contagion. I 
 need not say that I did not try any experiments, as they were all personal, 
 with contagious matter ; but by inclosing fresh milk under bell-jars with tar, 
 turpentine, assafoetida, faeces, urine, &c., I found that in most instances the 
 milk became impregnated with the smell, and sometimes with that intensely 
 disagreeable sensation which we know as the ' taste like the smell ' of the 
 substances employed. The degree to which this was acquired seemed not so 
 much to be in proportion to the amount employed either of milk or of infec- 
 tant substance, but to the amount and quality of the cream which rose to the 
 surface of the milk ; the oleaginous molecules seeming to act as the menstruum 
 of contagion. This is not unlikely, when we remember that the best solvent 
 for nearly all odoriferous principles is oil. Clinically, this question will be 
 m.ost diificult and dangerous to work out. For one, I shall not attempt it. 
 But, if we bethink ourselves of any instances of diseases which might in 
 certain instances be communicated by milk, typhoid fever stands out with 
 fearful probability." These observations are of obvious importance to the 
 farmer, not only as indicating the infections of which he must beware, but 
 the high-smelling sulphurous, chlorinated, carbolic, or tarry disinfectants — 
 such as sulphurous acid, chlorine, chloride of zinc (Burnett's fluid), carbolic 
 acid, and McDougall's powders, against which he must be equally on his 
 guard, however much they may be pressed on his attention by interested or 
 imperfectly-informed persons. 
 
 COLOE OF MILK. 
 
 Milk of average good quality contains about eighty-seven per cent, of 
 water. It is for the most part an emulsion of fatty particles, in a solution 
 of caseine and milk sugar. Thus the proportion may be stated to be very 
 nearly, in one hundred parts, as follows : 
 
 Water, 87.40 
 
 Butter, 3.43 
 
 Caseine, 3.13 
 
 Milk Sugar, 5.13 
 
 Mineral matter, 93 
 
 100 
 
 Milk varies in its composition in different cows, at different seasons, or 
 when fed upon different kinds of food, — the greatest variation in either of 
 its solid constituents being in the butter. The fatty particles are inclosed in 
 little cells of caseine. In other words the butter is encased in curds. These 
 milk globules are generally round or egg-shaped. They are of different sizes 
 in different animals ; and even in animals of the same kind they vary from 
 the l-2000th to the l-4000thpart of an inch. Viewed under the microscope 
 milk appears as a transparent fluid, in which float these innumerable small 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 165 
 
 round or egg-shaped globules — the so-called milk globules. The fluid consti- 
 tutes the bulk, and the milk globules but a small fraction of the milk. The 
 white apj)earance of the milk is due to the milk globules suspended in it. As 
 these globules are separated in the shape of cream, the milk becomes clearer 
 and acquires a peculiar bluish tint which at once indicates its character, "As 
 blue as skimmed milk" is an old adage — a familiar expression, if not a 
 familiar fact to most jDcople, whether they be dairymen or otherwise. Com- 
 pletely sef)arated from the milk globules, the fluid is a perfect solution of 
 curd or caseine, albumen, milk sugar, and mineral matters. 
 
 These butter bags or cells, being lighter than milk, rise on standing, and 
 are removed as cream. The less transparent the milk is, the better, and the 
 more butter it contains. If it were possible to separate the cream completely 
 by standing, the skimmed milk would be almost colorless ; but as a certain 
 number of milk globules always remain suspended in milk, even after long 
 standing, skimmed milk is always more or less opaque. In the ordinary 
 process of setting milk and skimming, the fatty matter is not wholly removed , 
 with the cream which rises ; for if the skimmed milk be made into cheese, 
 the cheese on analysis will be found to contain butter, though the quantity 
 may be small. But that the butter is not all removed from the skimmed 
 milk, will perhaps be as satisfactorily indicated to the dairyman, by observing 
 the thin coating of cream which rises upon the whey obtained from the man- 
 ufacture of " skim cheese." Skimmed milk and buttermilk, having a whitish 
 appeai'ance, still contain minute milk globules, with shells of caseine, or 
 caseine in solution, which color the fluid. 
 
 TINT PROM THE FOOD COWS PEED 027. 
 
 It may be observed that the food Avhich cows ffeed upon sometimes 
 imparts its peculiar tint. It is a well known fact that food containing 
 substances of a medicinal character which pass rapidly into the milk, imparts 
 to it medicinal properties, similar to those in the substances themselves. 
 Thus, if castor oil be given to a milch cow in considerable quantities, the 
 purgative effects of the oil pass into the milk. The i^eculiar flavor of turnips, 
 cabbage, or onions, used as food, passing to the milk, is of so common an 
 occurrence to those in habit of handling milch stock, that it will be readily 
 recognized as a fact. In like manner, the tint of some kinds of weeds 
 passes into the milk and colors it. Most authors state that cow's milk is 
 either neutral or slightly alkaline, and that the milk of carnivorous animals 
 has always an acid reaction. The samples of milk taken from different 
 animals of my own herd, when tested with blue litmus paper, have invariably 
 shown an acid reaction. When milk is allowed to turn acid by keeping for 
 some days, or when any acid or rennet is added to new milk, the curd of 
 milk, contaminated with more or less butter, separates in the form of a Avhite, 
 flocky, voluminous substance, having a slightly acid reaction. When dried it 
 shrinks greatly in bulk and becomes semi-transparent and honi-like. In this 
 
166 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 condition it is scarcely soluble in water, but dissolves with readiness in a 
 weak solution of caustic potash and soda ; and is again precipitated from its 
 alkaline solution, by acetic or mineral acids, and restored to its former gelati- 
 nous condition. 
 
 CASEINE 
 
 exists in milk in a state of solution, and is distinguished from albumen, which 
 it resembles closely in composition and general physical properties, by not 
 coagulating on boiling, and by being precipitated by rennet. On boDing a 
 solution of caseine it absorbs oxygen, and in consequence a pellicle which is 
 insoluble in water is gradually formed upon the surface. A similar pellicle is 
 formed when skimmed milk is boiled. New milk gradually heated to near 
 the boiling point of water, throws up cream, while at the same time, a skin 
 of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface. Thus in the noted " clotted 
 cream " of Devonshire we find more curd than in cream collected in the 
 ordinary manner. When I was in Devonsire, I was particularly interested 
 ■ in knowing how this highly esteemed English delicacy was made, and I shall 
 describe the process, as I frequently saw it in opei'ation among the Devon- 
 shire dairies. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE CKEAM. 
 
 The dairy house is of stone, usually in connection with the dwelling ; 
 stone floors and stone benches for the milk to set upon, and all well ventila- 
 ted, and scrupously neat and clean. The milk is strained in large, deep pans, 
 and put in the dairy house, where it stands eight to ten hours, when the pans 
 are taken out and the milk scalded, by placing the pans holding it in an iron 
 skillet filled with water and set upon the range. At the bottom of the skillet 
 there is a grate on -which the pan of milk rests, so as to keep it from the 
 bottom and from burning. The milk is slowly heated to near the boiling 
 point, or until the cream begins to show a distinctly marked circle or crinkle 
 around the outer edges When the first bubble rises on the surface of the 
 cream, it must be immediately removed from the fire. Some experience is 
 necessary in applying the heat, to have it just right, otherwise the cream is 
 spoiled. When properly scalded, the milk is removed to the dairy, where it 
 stands from twelve to twenty-four hours, according to the condition of the 
 weather, when the cream is removed and is in a thick compact mass, an inch 
 or more thick, and quite diflferent from our ordinary cream. It is then divided 
 with a knife into squares of convenient size, and removed with a skimmer. 
 It is more solid than cream obtained in the usual way, and has a peculiarly 
 sweet and pleasant taste. It is considei-ed a great delicacy, and is largely 
 used in England, with sugar, upon pastry, puddings, or fresh fruits, and 
 especially upon the famous gooseberry pie. It makes an extensive article of 
 commerce, and is really a delicious article of food. I do not know as this 
 cream has ever been manufactured in this country, but it certainly deserves 
 to be introduced, and perhaps would prove profitable. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 167 
 
 solubility of caseine. 
 The solubility of caseine iu milk, says Voelcker, is generally ascribed to 
 the presence of a certain small proportion of free alkali. But though it is 
 quite true that alkalies are excellent solvents for caseine, and milk is fre- 
 quenily slightly alkaline, it may be questioned whether the solubility of 
 caseine is due to the presence of free alkali ; for even in milk which is 
 slightly acid, and therefore does not contain any free alkali, all the curd 
 occurs in a soluble form ; nor does the addition to new milk of diluted 
 acid iu quantities which, though small, are sufficient to render it decidedly 
 sour, cause the separation of caseine. This takes place only after a large 
 qantity of lactic acid has been formed spontaneously, or an excess of free 
 acid has been put into the milk. And he remarks further, that the action of 
 rennet on the soluble form in which caseine occurs in milk is peculiar, and as 
 yet unexplained. It was supposed for a long time that 
 
 EENNET COAGULATED MILK 
 
 by converting the sugar of milk into lactic acid, and that the lactic acid, by 
 neutralizing the free alkali, was in reality the agent in effecting the separation 
 of the curd in a coagulated condition. But this view is no longer tenable ; for 
 rennet at once coagulates new milk without turning it acid in the slightest 
 degree. He affirms that he has even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet 
 separated the curd by rennet, and obtained a whey which had an alkaline 
 reaction. In my interviews with Professor Voelcker in London, during the 
 summer of 1866, he said to me that the chemists were as yet quite unable to 
 explain the coagulating principle of rennet, or even to give it a name. Since 
 that time, by the aid of the microscope, the coagulation of milk has been 
 explained, and if the theory is correct it opens up a very interesting field of 
 investigation. I shall presently refer to these microscopic investigations, and 
 give the views now entertained by scientific men on this question. When 
 curd is exposed to air in a moist condition, it undergoes partial decomposi- 
 tion and becomes a ferment, which rapidly decomposes a portion of the 
 neutral fats of butter, separating from them butyric and other volatile fatty 
 acids which impart the bad flavor to rancid butter. Caseine ferment also 
 rapidly converts milk sugar into lactic acid. Pure caseine of milk has almost 
 precisely the same composition as vegetable caseine or legumen, and possesses 
 the same physical and chemical qualities. 
 
 albumen. 
 When rennet is added to milk it separates into curd and whey, and if 
 properly conducted a perfectly clear whey is obtained. On heating the clear 
 and filtered whey nearly to the boiling point of water, a flaky curd-like sub- 
 stance separates itself. This substance is considered to be albumen. It 
 exhibits all the distinguishing properties of white of egg or albumen, but has 
 not yet been subjected to ultimate analysis. The albuminous matter which 
 is not separated by rennet, but coagulates on boiling the whey from which 
 
168 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the curd has been previously removed, amounts in cows' milk to from one-half to 
 three-quarters per cent., or about one-quarter to one-fifth part of the caseine. 
 It is somewhat remarkable, says Dr. Voelcker, that this albuminous matter 
 does not coagulate when new milk is simply raised to the boiling point of water. 
 In this case a pellicle of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface, but no 
 albumen separates, and it thus appears that the curd of milk has first to be 
 removed by rennet before the albuminous matter can be obtained in a coagu- 
 lated form. Whether some practical method will yet be invented for arrest- 
 ino- this highly nutritious constituent of milk and incorporating it in the 
 cheese remains to be seen ; but up to this time none of the ordinary methods 
 of cheese-making have sufficed. 
 
 DENSITY OF CREAM. 
 
 I have said that the milk globules are small, roimd, or egg-shaped bodies, 
 which inclose in a thin shell of caseine a mixture of several fatty matters. 
 They are somewhat lighter than milk and consequently they rise on the sur- 
 face when milk is set aside and remains at rest. Cream is slightly denser 
 than pure water, and will therefore sink in distilled water. By churning 
 the cream, the caseine shells are broken, and the contents of the milk globules 
 made into butter. 
 
 MILK SUGAR 
 
 is contained in the clear whey from which curd and albumen have been 
 separated, and is prepared by evaporating in shallow vessels until crystals 
 begin to separate. The sugar of milk is less sweet than grape or cane sugar. 
 It requires five to six parts of cold water for solution ; dissolves readily 
 in boiling water, and crystalizes again on cooling, in white, semi-transparent, 
 hard, small crystals, which feel gritty between the teeth. In a pure state it 
 may be kept, unadulterated, for any length of time, but if left in contact with 
 caseine and air it gradually becomes changed into lactic acid or into fruit 
 sugar, which in its turn enters into alcoholic fermentation, producing carbonic 
 acid and alcohol. Most of the milk sugar of the shops is now manufactured 
 in Switzerland. It forms an article of commerce, being used largely in the 
 preparation of medicines. It is usually sold at the shops at from six to eight 
 shillings per pound, and it has been suggested that it could be profitably 
 manufactured here, and employed for various purposes, were its cost cheap- 
 ened. A firm in Chicago have recently advertised for the whey of the 
 Western cheese factories, and propose to enter upon milk sugar manufacture. 
 
 MINERAL MATTERS. 
 
 The mineral matters of milk consist mainly of phosphate of lime and 
 magnesia, and the chlorides of potassium and sodium, besides a small quantity 
 of phosphate of iron, and some free soda. A thousand pounds of milk, 
 according to the analysis of Haidlen, woxild contain from five to nearly seven 
 pounds of mineral matters. The relative proportions of the several sub- 
 stances are given by Haidlen as follows : 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 169 
 
 Phosphate of lime 
 
 " of magnesia 
 
 " of peroxide of iron 
 Chloride of potassium 
 
 " of sodium 
 
 Free soda 
 
 2.31 
 
 .43 
 
 .07 
 
 . 1.44 
 
 .24 
 
 .42 
 
 4.90 
 
 3.44 
 .64 
 
 .07 
 
 1.83 
 
 .34 
 
 .45 
 
 6.77 
 
 I have now given a very full account of the diiferent constituents of milk 
 as described by the chemists, and found by chemical analysis ; and it is 
 important that those who manufacture milk into dairy products, have some' 
 general idea of the component parts of the material with which they have 
 to do. * 
 
 QUALITY OF MILK HOW AFFECTED. 
 
 The quality of cow's milk is affected by the age of the animal, as well as by 
 the distance from the time of calving. Now, as to the milk of aged cows, the 
 general impression in this country among dairymen is, that the milk of old 
 cows is quite as good or even better than that of young cows. Hence the almost 
 imiversal practice of our dairymen is to retain good milkers on the farm, and if 
 no accident occurs, on account of which their milk fails, they are kept in the 
 dairy until quite worn out with age and are then turned off— but little better 
 than mere skeletons of hides and bones — at from six to ten dollars per head. 
 In England I found a very different practice prevailing. When milch cows 
 have attained an age of from six to eight years' they are put in condition for 
 the shambles and sold, A good profit is thus realized on the animals for 
 meat, irrespective of what may have been made in the dairy. They hold that 
 the milk of old cows is of inferior quality to that of young cows, and chemical 
 ' analysis, it seems confirms this opinion. Again, as old cows consume more food 
 than young cows, and are therefore more expensive to feed, nothing appears 
 so unprofitable as to keep cows until they grow old. Voelckeb affirms that 
 generally speaking, after the fourth or fifth calf the milk becomes poorer. 
 This is a very important question in the economy of dairy practice, and it is 
 one which I hope will be thoroughly investigated at our agricultural colleges. 
 Milch cows sell at from seventy to eighty dollars. If turned for beef at seven 
 to eight years' old, there will be little or no loss, but if kept four years 
 longer and sold for ten dollars, the loss on first cost of the animal is some 
 sixty dollars, or fifteen dollars per year. 
 
 influence op food iisr changing the relative constituents of milk. 
 
 There is another interesting question which I hoj^e to see investigated at 
 our agricultural colleges, and that is, whether the food upon which the cow 
 is kept, has much, or little, or no inufluence in changing the quality of milk, 
 
170 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 or the relative proportions of its various constituents. Dr. Kuhn, a German 
 chemist, in a recent communication to a meeting of agricultural chemists at 
 Halle, Germany, answers this question in the negative. His opinion is based 
 upon an experiment with eleven milch cows, and he believes the result to be 
 correct, as the experiment was made with great care. He says : — " Green 
 clover was fed with or without the addition of cut straw, so that the propor- 
 tion of nitrogenous elements to the non-nitrogenous elements of the food 
 varied from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 3.5 ; nevertheless the relative proportions of the 
 several constituents of the dry substance of the milk, as fat, caseine, albu- 
 men, and sugar, remained constant throughout. 
 
 The relative proportions of the several dry constituents of the milk 
 appear, therefore, he says, to depend, not on quality of the food, but on 
 special characteristics in the constitution of the animals themselves. Dr. 
 KuHN says he has con&'med this result by experiments with a more varied 
 mixture of food, since he has fed hay alone, then hay with starch, with oil, 
 with beans, with bran, so that in one instance the proportion of the nitro- 
 genous to the non-nitrogenous was as 1 to 8.1. It is not possible, he says, by 
 any choice of food to modify the character of the milk so as to make it richer, 
 for example, in fat or any other organic ingredient ; this can only be done 
 by a judicious selection of the breed of milch cattle. The proportion of 
 water however, to the ingredients of the milk may be affected by the char- 
 acter of the food ; so that the richness of the milk in any given constituent, 
 as for example, oil, may be increased ; but at the same time every other con- 
 stituent except water is increased in the same proportion. 
 
 The following paper communicated during the past year (1871), to the 
 New York Tribune, by a student of Scientific Agriculture, at one of the 
 German Universities, will explain more in detail the theory referred to : 
 
 I"N"FLUENCE OF FODDEE UPON MILK PRODUCTION. 
 
 Some accounts of experiments on the best methods of feeding cattle, made 
 at the Agricultural Experiment Station in Moeckern, Saxony, have already 
 appeared in an article entitled " Best Food for Milch Cows." An account of 
 another experiment, the object of which was to determine the effect of differ- 
 ent kinds and quantities of food upon the milk production, will be interesting, 
 from its practical as well as scientific bearings. 
 
 The question to be solved is this : WJiat effect does the quality — the com- 
 position — of the fodder, have tipon the quality — the composition — of the 
 tnilJc? If I have a dairy and make butter, it is worth while to know 
 whether, by increasing the amount of fatty matter in the food, I can get a milk 
 richer in butter, or whether in case I wish to make cheese, during the hot 
 summer months, I can increase the amount of albumen and caseine in the milk, 
 by adding albuminous material to the food. Here in Germany, when a ques- 
 tion of this kind arises, they have a simple way of settling it. They " try 
 and see." And the spirit in which this trying and seeing, this experimenting 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 171 
 
 is done, is the same spirit that has made Napoleon to-day a prisoner upon 
 German soil, and borne King William, with his victorious army to the gates 
 of Paris ; the spirit of System, of patient, systematic, thorough, intelligent 
 work. How Dr. Kuhn and his assistants carried on this experiment, and what 
 its plan and results were, we shall be better able to understand after a little 
 reviewing of some of the fundamental principles of physiological chemistry. 
 
 The chemistry of the present day informs us that there are two general 
 classes of substance which make up the great bulk of the organic matter of 
 the plant, and of the animal body, or of its products, as milk. The main 
 difference between them, as shown by chemical analysis, is that the one class 
 contains nitrogen, while the other does not. Hence they are styled nitro- 
 genous and non-nitrogenous substances. But the physiologist finds that they 
 have very different uses in the animal system ; that the non-nitrogenous or 
 carbo-hydrates, as they are also styled, contribute more to the formation of 
 fat, and make also fuel, whose combustion keeps up the animal heat — while 
 the nitrogenous build up the muscles, the lean meat, and, at the same time, 
 are believed to be especially efiicient as a source of strength, in the same way 
 that the carbo-hydrates generate heat by their consumption in the system. 
 Let us, then, fix thoroughly in our minds the names and chief offices of these 
 two classes of substances : 1. Nitrogenous, or albuminoids — flesh-forming, 
 strength-giving. 2. Non-nitrogenous or carbo-hydrates — fat-forming, sources 
 of animal heat. Meanwhile we will be content to know that in hay, in meal, 
 in meat, in milk, indeed in all that makes up the food and flesh of animals or 
 men, these two classes of substances constitute the most important part, and 
 that this distinction lies at the foundation of that application of science to 
 cattle-feeding, which is called, on this side of the Atlantic, "Rational 
 Foddering." 
 
 Fat meat, the fatty portions of milk, and the butter are non-nitrogenous, 
 but lean meat and skim-milk cheese are nitrogenous. So the question to be 
 decided by our experiment is. Will a ration, rich in carbo-hydrates, give a 
 milk rich in butter, or will a milk rich in albuminoide be produced from a 
 food of corresponding composition 9 
 
 In the stables of the Moeckern Station, are some stalls especially set apart 
 for cows under experiment. During the course of the experiment these cows 
 are fed and milked under the direct supervision of one of the chemists, Dr. 
 Haase, whose duty it happens to be to attend to the feeding and milking. 
 The cows are quietly eating their hay and oil cake, a cow-maid is milking one, 
 and the Doctor is looking on to see that no milk is spilled, and is ready to 
 take the milk and weigh it as soon as it is ready. The general plan of the 
 experiment is to feed the cows during one period of two or three weeks, with 
 a ration rich in albuminoids, the ration being made up of hay, which we con- 
 sider normal fodder, to which is added bean meal or rape cake, or some other 
 substance rich in nitrogen ; and then change the proportions, and for the next 
 period furnish a preponderance of carbo-hydrates, or hay, with oil, starch, 
 
172 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 &c., and note the difference, if any, in the quantity and quality of the milk. 
 That would seem to be quite a simple matter, but in fact it is a very compli- 
 cated work. To feed a cow three weeks on the highly nitrogenous food, and 
 then suddenly change to a highly non-nitrogenous ration would be too great 
 a shock upon the internal system to allow the experiment to be reliable. And 
 further, natural change, that takes place in the composition and amount of 
 the milk, indej^endent of the fodder, makes the work still more comjDlicated. 
 To get over these difficulties we must start with a jDcriod of normal fodder- 
 ing on good meadow hay, then gradually change, through a transition period, 
 to the more or less nitrogenous feed, as the case may be, and continue this 
 latter course of feeding for a long while, so as to be sure that it has a fair 
 opportunity to work out its full effect ; then, in a second transition period, 
 pass gradually to normal fodder ; then on to the second sjDecial ration, which, 
 on the supposition that the former was over-rich in nitrogen, will have an 
 excess of carbo-hydrates. When this period has run on long enough there 
 comes another transition period, during which the carbo-hydrates will be 
 removed, until at length we come back to meadow hay again, and this normal 
 foddering is kept up through the last j^eriod. The actual rations in the differ- 
 rent periods of the experiment were : 
 
 Period I. Normal Fodder — Meadow Hay. Transition, in which a highly 
 nutritious material — bean-meal — was added in increasing quantities. 
 
 Period II. Nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with bean-meal or rape- 
 cakes. Transition, during which bean-meal was replaced by carbo-hydrates, 
 oil, or starch. 
 
 Period III. Non-nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with oil or starch. 
 Transition, during which the carbo-hydrates were withdrawn. 
 
 Period IV. Normal Fodder — Meadow hay. 
 
 " The amounts and compositions of the different rations are estimated by 
 accurate weighings and analysis. The yield of milk during the normal periods 
 at the beginning and end of the experiment gives us a means of estimating 
 the line of changes through which the quantity and quality of the milk would 
 run, the natural variation in amount and composition during the whole time 
 of the experiment — some three months and a-half — and the variations from 
 this line during the periods of special foddering, give us the influence of the 
 foddering upon the milk, the results aimed at in the experiment. And what 
 seems to be the probable result of these experiments ? Thus far, it appears 
 that no change in the quality of the food is capable of materially affecting 
 the quality of the milk, at least so long as the ration is of such quality as to 
 be healthy, and is given in sufficient quantity." 
 
 Meanwhile one of the cowmaids has finished milking, and brings the pail 
 to the Doctor. He weighs it carefully on a scale standing close by and notes 
 the weight. "You will notice," he says, " that the cows are numbered one, 
 two, three, four. For each one there is a separate set of measures for the 
 fodder, and a separate milk pail. This is No. 3. The exact weight of pail is 
 
Practical Datry Husbandry. 
 
 173 
 
 known, and that, subtracted from the whole weight of j^ail and milk togetlier 
 gives the weight of the milk. As you see, I have the milk weighed from cow 
 three. A portion intended for analysis is poured into a dish marked three, 
 the date is also noted, and it is taken into the laboratory with similar portions 
 from one and two and analyzed. The composition of the food given is also 
 known from analysis, the quantities fed are regularly and carefully weighed 
 out, and detailed accounts of the food given and milk obtained are kept, so 
 that when the experiment is finished we have all the data from which to draw 
 our conclusions." 
 
 Omitting further details we pass at once to the result. First, as to the 
 natural changes that the milk undergoes during the milking period, that is to say, 
 as the time from calving increases. The average amount of milk given was : 
 First period, 18.1 lbs., with normal fodder, meadow hay ; last period, 14.6 lbs., 
 with normal fodder, meadow hay. Falling ofi" in three months, 3.5 lbs. Other- 
 wise than in this falling oiF about a pound per month in the yield, there was 
 no especial change, save a very slight increase in the richness of the milk. 
 Indeed, it appears from these and other investigations, that there is generally 
 a very slight change in the composition of milk during the milking jDcriod — 
 that it becomes somewhat richer, and that there is a slight increase in the 
 relative amount of albuminoids, and decrease in that of fat and sugar. How- 
 ever, during the first three or four months at least, this change is too trifling 
 to be of any practical consequence. Now as to the main result of the exper- 
 iment, the influence of the nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous rations. The 
 changes in the composition of the milk during the middle periods were so 
 extremely small as to be of no real importance. In fact, the variation 
 observed from day to day, and the difierences in the milk from the different 
 cows were greater than those found in the milk given in the different periods. 
 To show how extremely small these differences were, and at the same time to 
 give an illustration of the chemical composition of milk, I append the follow- 
 ing figures, the first column showing the average composition, with the 
 normal fodder of meadow hay, and the second with the addition of bran meal 
 or rape cakes to the hay, the third with hay and oil or starch. In one thou- 
 sand parts obtained from these articles were contained : 
 
 
 NOBMAL 
 
 Ration. 
 
 Nitrogen- 
 ous Ration. 
 
 NON-NITBO- 
 
 GENOUS 
 
 Ration. 
 
 Water 
 
 878 
 41 
 44 
 28 
 
 7 
 
 880 
 40 
 44 
 39 
 
 7 
 
 883 
 
 Butter 
 
 39 
 
 Milk Sugar 
 
 43 
 
 Albuminoids 
 
 29 
 
 Mineral Matters 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 In short, the differences are so minute as to be of no practical account 
 whatever, and it appears that the variations in tlie quality of the ration were 
 without effect upon the composition of the milk. Now, let us make sure that 
 
174 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 we understand this thoroughly. We have been talking of " quality " and 
 " composition " of milk and fodder. By this we mean the relative amounts 
 of the different ingredients of the milk, water, sugar, fat, albumen, caseine, 
 &c. The more organic substance, sugar, fat, and albuminoids in the milk, the 
 richer ; the more water, the poorer it is. When we say that the milk grows 
 gradually richer with the increase of time from calving, we mean that there 
 is more organic substance and less water in a quart when the cow has been 
 milked six months than when she has been milked only one month. The 
 quantity, the whole " mess " yielded each day, will be larger at the end of one 
 month than at the end of six months, and on that account the amount of the 
 organic substance in the whole " mess " will be greater in the former case, 
 while the amount in one quaint will be greater in the latter. And when we 
 say that variations in the quantity of the fodder are without effect upon the 
 quality of the milk, we mean that the relative amounts of fat, sugar and albu- 
 minoids in the organic substance of the milk are unaltered thereby. Suppose 
 now I feed a ration, say twenty-five pounds of second quality hay, from which 
 my cows yield an average of twenty pounds of milk a day, containing two 
 and a-half pounds of organic matter, of which forty per cent., or one pound, 
 is butter. I increase this ration, or make it richer by the addition of turnips, 
 oil-cake, &c., and obtain a yield of twenty-four pounds of milk, or one-fifth 
 more. I have then a corresponding increase of one-fifth in the organic 
 matter and the butter, and three pounds of the former and one and one-fifth 
 of the latter. 
 
 There is just one more point to be explained. The experiments show that 
 the composition of the oi-ganic substance remains unaltered by changes in 
 the fodder ; but how is it with the relation of water and organic substances 
 — the richness in the milk ? Will not green fodder, or pasture-feeding, give 
 a more watery milk, and consequently a larger yield ? I am not aware that 
 this especial subject has been tested with sufiicient thoroughness to decide the 
 question. It has long been the opinion of practical men that a dry fodder 
 would make a richer milk than green fodder. The later German experiments 
 seem rather to oppose this idea, or at least to show that their effect is much 
 less important than has generally been believed. 
 
 But so much is certain : When I have once found a ration upon which my 
 cows will thrive, each one of them will give a certain amount of milk, the 
 organic matter of Avhich will have a certain composition. By varying the 
 ration I can vary the total yield of milk and of organic substance — that is to 
 say, of butter and cheese produced, and may possibly bring about a slight 
 change in the relative amounts of organic substance and water ; but the 
 amount of organic substance in a quart of milk will vary but slightly, if at all, 
 and the quality and the amount of butter in an ounce of organic substance 
 will be practically unaltered. 
 
 Had but one experiment of this sort been made, the use of its conclusions 
 for establishing rules for practice would be open to objection. But the better 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 175 
 
 scientists of the present day have learned the fallacy of building conclusions 
 on such narrow foundations, and taking warning of the fall of earlier and 
 poorly supported theories, are loth to proclaim a theory to the world until it 
 has a reasonable basis of experiment. 
 
 Dr. KuHN has carried out quite a number of investigations similar to the 
 one above described, and several other well known investigators have been 
 for some time past at work upon the same subject. One of these latter, Pro- 
 fessor Wolff, Director of the Experiment Station at Hohenheim, in Wurt- 
 emberg, gives the result of a long series of investigations in the following 
 language : 
 
 " One interesting result of these experiments is, that the quality of the 
 milk — the amount of butter it contains — leaving the taste out of account, has 
 always remained the same, in spite of manifold and important changes in the 
 quality of the fodder. In fact, the changes in the amount of butter in the 
 milk, as determined by chemical analysis, are so unimportant as to be entirely 
 unworthy of consideration. As the practical result of this, we are left to 
 infer that the quality of the food exercises no influence upon the quality — the 
 content — of butter in the milk, while, on the other hand, the effect of fodder 
 becomes readily and distinctly manifest in the quantity of the milk yielded, 
 and in the increase or decrease of the live weight of the animals. The 
 quality of the milk seems, therefore, to be determined by the peculiarities of 
 the breed or the individual animal, at least as long as the fodder is healthy, 
 palatable and sufficient in quantity." 
 
 Dr. KuHN gives the result of his own experiments, in so far as they are 
 directly applicable to practice, in similar language : 
 
 " The influence of variations in the fodder in these experiments was mani- 
 fested in the amount of milk yielded alone, and not in the quality. The 
 influence upon the quantity is, however, quite apparent. As regards the desire 
 of the farmer to increase the production of a certain element of the milk, as, 
 for instance, butter, by a change in the quality of the fodder, the above law 
 is fully valid. The farmer must, on the other hand, look to the peculiarities 
 of different breeds of cattle for that quality of milk which is best adapted to 
 his own special purpose. If he would increase the quantity of milk yielded he 
 must select such individuals as give a good yield." 
 
 Foddering, then, if rightly managed, may increase the quantity of the 
 milk, but will not alter its quality. Must, then, the milkman who sells his 
 milk in the city, and the country dairyman who makes butter and cheese, be 
 content with the same quality of milk ? — or is there some other means by 
 which each may obtain a milk adapted to his special purposes ? Dr. Kuhn" 
 suggests the answer to this question at the close of the paragraph just quoted. 
 The subject is an important one ; let us pursue it a little further. Every man 
 who will realize the largest profits from his cows must see to it, Jirst^ that he 
 has good inilkers • second^ that he feeds them well. If he desires a large 
 yield of butter, he must select breeds and individuals whose milk is rich in 
 
176 
 
 Pbactical Dairy Husbanvby. 
 
 
 butter. If he sells his milk in the town, and does not care so much for the 
 quality, as long as the quantity is large, he will do best with other breeds and 
 other individuals. At least so say the best German authorities, and they 
 have experimented enough upon the subject to entitle their opinions to 
 confidence. 
 
 What is believed here in Germany concerning the best method of fodder- 
 ing, and how science and practice have contributed to the grounding of 
 German theories on " rational foddering," will perhaps form the subject of 
 another article. It will be more appropriate here to notice something of 
 what statistics, experiments and practical experience say as to the milk and 
 butter-producing qualities of difierent breeds. 
 
 la Saxony and Prussia, where a great deal of attention has been given to 
 this matter, the Hollander, the Holsteiner and Oldenbui-ger breeds, from the 
 lowlands of North-western Europe, the Allgauer, from the mountainous 
 regions of Southern Bavaria, and the English breeds — the Ayrshire, Suffolk, 
 Cheshire, Yorkshire, &c.— rare the most popular as milkers ; while the Short- 
 Horns, &c., are preferred for fattening. 
 
 The statistics of a large number of farms in the Kingdom of Saxony, for 
 the year 1853, show that the average yield per cow in the year 1853 was : 
 
 
 Qts. of 
 
 SULK. 
 
 Lbs. op 
 
 BUTTER. 
 
 Lbs. of 
 
 butter in 
 
 100 LBS. OF 
 MILK. 
 
 Allgauer 
 
 2,664 
 3,859 
 3,110 
 
 369 
 253 
 190 
 
 10.1 
 
 Hollaiidt;!' 
 
 8.8 
 
 
 8.5 
 
 
 
 Whence it appears that the Hollanders are the largest milkers, but that 
 the Allgauers give a milk much richer in butter ; one hundred pounds of milk 
 from the former making 10.1 pounds of butter, of the latter only 8.8 pounds. 
 A very natural conclusion from this would be for the butter-makers to select 
 Allgauers, and the milkman who sells his milk in town to fill his stables with 
 Hollanders. And, indeed, among the milkmen in this region, Hollanders are 
 the most popular breed. 
 
 As to the qualities of the English races as butter producers there seems to 
 be a lack of accurate statistics. The best sources represent the average 
 butter production in England at one hundred to two hundred pounds per cow, 
 yearly ; and in the lowlands across the Channel — Holland and Holstein — at 
 considerably less, or some one hundred and twelve pounds, which would make 
 the English cows better butter-producers than the Hollanders. Yon Weck- 
 EKLEiisr, a note^d German cattle-breeder, who has made this subject a matter 
 of a great deal of observation and experiment, puts the English breeds, the 
 Yorkshire and Suffolk, a little below, and the Devons and Herefords some- 
 what above the Allgauers, but finds them all superior to the Hollanders in 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 177 
 
 richness of milk. The Short-Horns have likewise the reputation of giving 
 better quality but smaller quantity of milk than the Hollanders. 
 
 In general in Germany, where English, French, and German breeds of 
 cattle have been tried quite thoroughly, the Short-Horns are, as far as my own 
 observation goes, looked upon as most excellent for fattening ; the Allgauers, 
 Devons, and Herefords are much liked for butter and cheese-making, while 
 the Hollanders are special favorites among milkmen. 
 
 It seems to me that these two breeds, the Allgauers and Hollanders, 
 deserve rather more attention among our cattle-raisers in America than they 
 have as yet received. We are quite well acquainted with English breeds, but 
 the German are almost unknown to us. And yet the most intelligent 
 German farmers, who can import Devons and Durhams as well as Hollanders 
 and Allgauers, and who have tried all these races faithfully, give the decided 
 preference to the Allgauers and Hollanders as milkers, and consider the 
 Short-Horns superior only in fattening qualities. 
 
 The Allgauers are small or medium-sized, jBne-boned, thick-set, and very 
 finely built. The large amount of milk yielded by this breed, its richness, 
 and at the same time their small consumption of food, make them most 
 desirable cows for the dairy. Some herds average between two thousand five 
 hundred and two thousand six hundred quarts per head yearly. For regions 
 where fodder is uncertain, and not over good quality, the Allgauers can be 
 very highly recommended. The Hollanders, on the other hand, are lai'ge and 
 stout built — the cows often weigh sixteen hundred and fifty or even seven- 
 teen hundred pounds, and are remarkable for their very large milk production, 
 amounting in some cases to nearly four thousand five hundred quarts per 
 year, though not very rich in butter. They require, however, rather high 
 feeding, but, on the other hand, are very easily fattened. On these accounts 
 the Hollanders are specially adapted to the neighborhoods of large towns 
 where brewery, and distillery refuse and commercial food, as oil-cakes, are 
 cheap, and the fresh milk finds ready sale." 
 
 Now this difiers from the opinion expressed by Prof Voelckee, who 
 says that : " Milk may be regarded as a material for the manufacture of 
 butter and cheese, and according to the purpose for which the milk is 
 intended to be employed, whether for the manufacture of butter, or the 
 production of cheese, the cows should be difierently fed." And he remarks 
 further, that " Butter contains carbon, hydrogen or oxygen, and no nitrogen. 
 Cheese on the contrary, is rich in nitrogen. Food which contains much fatty 
 matter, or substances which in the animal system are readily converted into 
 fat, will tend to increase the proportion of cream in milk. On the other hand 
 the proportion of caseine or cheesy matter in milk is increased by the use of 
 highly nitrogenized food. Those therefore who desire much cream, or who 
 produce food for the manufacture of butter, select food likely to increase the 
 proportion of butter in the milk. On the contrary, when the principal object 
 is the production of milk rich in curd — that is, when cheese is the object of 
 12 
 
178 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the farmer, clover, peas, and bean meal, and other plants which abound in 
 Legumin — a nitrogenized organic compound, almost identical in properties 
 of composition with caseine, or the substance which forms the curd of milk 
 — will be selected. As a matter of pure theory, the latter position seems to 
 be the more reasonable. And in practice it has been observed by our dairy- 
 men, that when pastures have a good proportion of the finer clovers, 
 especially the white clover, the cows feeding upon them yield abundant returns 
 in cheese. So also in spring feeding, when bran and pea and oat meal are 
 used in connection with hay, a much larger percentage of cheese is produced 
 than when fed upon Indian meal. But carefully conducted experiments, with 
 accurate analyses of the milk, would add much to our stock of knowledge on 
 this vexed question of animal foods. Indeed, Voelckee remarks in some 
 of his more recent investigations, that we cannot increase or improve, ad 
 infinitum^ the quantity or quality of milk. Cows which have a tendency to 
 fatten when supplied with food rich in oil and in flesh-forming materials, like 
 linseed cake, have the power of converting that food into fat, but they do not 
 produce a richer milk, and they may even produce it in smaller quantity. It 
 is this which renders all investigations on the influence of food upon the 
 quantity and quality of milk so extremely difiicult. According to theory, 
 it would appear that food rich in oily or fatty matter would be extremely 
 useful in rich milk, but in practice we sometimes find that it produces fat 
 and flesh instead. Sometimes its influence is even injurious, for cows supplied 
 too abundantly with linseed cake produce milk which does not make good 
 butter ; and he refers to an instance of this kind where the milk of cows so 
 fed furnished cream that could not be made into butter, and when put into 
 the churn it beat up into froth, nor by any manipulation would the caseine 
 separate from the butter. Yoelcker says, on examining this milk, and 
 trying to separate as much as possible, the solid or crystalized fat from the 
 liquid fat, I found that the latter was very much in excess of the former. 
 
 CLIMATE 
 
 has a most marked efiect on the quality of milk. In moist, cool seasons, 
 though a larger quantity of milk is produced, it is poorer, the amount of 
 solid matter being less than in dry, warm seasons. This peculiarity has often 
 led to serious errors in estimating the probable yield of dairy products in New 
 York. In cool, moist seasons when pastures are abundant and cows are 
 yielding a comparatively large flow of milk, a largely increased product of 
 cheese is predicted, but at the close of the season, to the great surprise of 
 many, the quantity falls below that of dryer seasons. I have known the 
 annual product of cheese to fall off in Herkimer county, in such seasons, 
 very considerably. As to the causes of this variation, something no doubt 
 is due to the greater amount of water in the food present in wet seasons, 
 but how much is due to temperature and moisture of the atmosphere, or 
 Its efiect on the health and condition of the animal, we do not know. That 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 179 
 
 the general state of health and condition of the animal has an influence on 
 the quality of the milk need hardly be stated. 
 
 THE SIZE AND BREED 
 
 of the animal, as we have previously remarked, have an important influence 
 on the quality of milk, and generally speaking the small breeds are better for 
 butter, and the larger breeds for cheese. 
 
 THE FIKST MILK 
 
 after the cow has given birth to her young, contains an unusually large 
 quantity of caseine. Bossingault found on analyzing such milk, that it con- 
 tained, in one hundred parts, about four times as much caseine as in ordinary 
 milk, the constituents being as follows : 
 
 Water, 75 . 8 
 
 Butter (pure fat), 2.6 
 
 Caseine, 15.0 
 
 Milk sugar, ' 3.6 
 
 Mineral matter, 3.0 
 
 100. 
 This peculiarity disappears after eight or ten days, and the milk assumes 
 its ordinary condition. 
 
 THE STRIPPINGS. 
 
 What are the " strippings " ? Probably about one-half of the people in 
 cities, or a large share of those born and brought up in cities, if they were 
 to choose milk as drawn from the cow, would take that which is first milked. 
 I was looking over a somewhat noted dairy recently, while the hands were 
 milking. In this particular dairy it was customary to save the " strippings " 
 by themselves, keeping them separate for a special purpose. While one of 
 the milkers was drawing the strippings, a very intelligent gentleman who 
 was visiting the family, came out with a cup to get a drink of warm milk. 
 Following the milker to the dairy, where the milk was to be strained in pans, 
 our visitor was invited to hold his cup under the strainer of the " strippings." 
 " No," said he, " I do not care to take the dregs ; I want the richest milk, 
 and will take that which was drawn first, in the other pail." 
 
 When the milkmaid told him the " strippings," or last drawn milk, was 
 nearly all cream, and that it was set apart for making choice butter, he mani- 
 fested the greatest surprise, and said the thing was entirely new to him. A 
 great many people are no wiser. Now, cream being lighter than milk, the 
 denser or heavier portion of the milk is drawn first from the udder, while 
 the lighter parts, rich in butter, remain back, and make up what is known 
 among dairymen as " the strippings." 
 
 It will be seen, then, how important it is that the last drop of milk in the 
 udder should be drawn while milking, and that when particular attention is 
 not given to this point the loss is much more serious than a waste of the 
 
180 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 same quantity of first drawn milk ; for the one is thin cream, while the other 
 is nothing more than plain milk. There is another loss, of course, in not milk- 
 ing clean, as it has a tendency to dry up the cow, or lessen the secretion of 
 milk from day to day. It is very difficult to impress milkers with the impor- 
 tance of drawing the " strippings " from the udder. Many milkers are in 
 the habit of finishing their work just as soon as the free flow of milk ceases. 
 Such milkers, it is needless to say, entail a heavy loss on the dairyman in the 
 course of the year, and if they milk many cows they waste more than their 
 wages. The " strippings " make a very nice quality of butter, and some 
 butter makers think it pays well to keep them separate from the first drawn 
 milk. It is a little more troxible to the milker to separate the " strippings," 
 as it necessitates having a " stripping pail," but there is no doubt that it 
 educates milkers to milk clean, if of no other advantage. 
 
 THE MILK OF DISEASED COWS. 
 
 I am convinced from extensive observation that great ignorance or 
 thoughtlessness prevails among many in regard to the use of bad milk. 
 From numerous experiments during many years, in feeding the milk of 
 " ailing cows " to pigs and calves — the milk from those cows that happen to 
 be ill from time to time in my oAvn dairy — I long since became satisfied that 
 such, milk is a much more fruitful source of disease than is commonly 
 imagined. In dairies, whether the milk is to be delivered at the factory, or 
 made up on the farm into butter and cheese, or sent to the town or city for 
 consumption, what is the usual practice of the milk producer ? Is it not to 
 be feared that the milk of diseased cows — of cows whose feet or udders ai'e 
 afifected with sores or ulcers, and discharging corruption — is sent forward to 
 be used as human food in the majority of instances ? Many doubtless have a 
 faint notion that the milk of a sick cow, or one afflicted with sores or ulcers, 
 is not just the kind of milk to be used, and is not such as they would care to 
 use in their own families; still, as there would be a loss in throwing such milk 
 away, the conclusion is that it can do no injury to other people, and so long as 
 the consumer is ignorant of all the facts no harm is done. Others affirm, and 
 doubtless believe, that the milk of a sick cow when mingled with other milk 
 and made into butter and cheese, becomes in some way purified in the process 
 of manufacture, so that nothing unwholesome remains in the butter or cheese. 
 The difficulty of always tracing disease to its true source and of detecting 
 the poisons thrown off in the milk of diseased animals, may help to hide the 
 culpable practices of dairymen and milk producers, but the moral wrong 
 remains the same ; and I cannot but think that the nuisance would in part 
 become abated, if people were fully convinced they were sending out food 
 heavily freighted with the elements of disease and death. If the loss from 
 bad milk must be in some way mitigated, would it not be better to make the 
 saving by feeding it to pigs or calves upon the farm, since the health or life 
 of an animal is less valuable than that of human beings ? 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 181 
 
 Prof. Gamgee, in his address before the American Dairymen's Associa- 
 tion, in referring to the foot and mouth disease, then so prevalent in England, 
 says : — " The poison of this disease is found in the vesicles within the mouth, 
 and is discharged with the gallons of saliva secreted daily, under the irritation 
 produced by the eruption on the tongue, palate, cheek and lips. It is also 
 formed in vesicles on the teats, and finds its way into the milk, and thus it 
 kills young pigs, calves, and even children that get milk fresh or undiluted." 
 And he remarks further, that although he " has no facts to indicate whether 
 cheese and butter would retain the virus for any length of time, yet in all 
 probability they would ; and a trustworthy observer assured him some 
 years since, that a pudding made with milk from a sick cow, though boiled, 
 produced the disease in a family of five grown persons." The unwholesome- 
 ness of milk from city dairies, Avhere the cows are kept in underground 
 stables and fed largely on distillers' slops and refuse garbage, has been proved 
 over and over again, from the investigations of scientific men. Country 
 milk has been generally supposed to be perfectly Avholesome and harmless, 
 but if all the facts concerning its production were known, I fear it would 
 often be found very objectionable as an article of food. 
 
 INJURY TO MILK FEOJI COWS I^THALING BAD ODORS. 
 
 The injury to milk from cows inhaling bad odors is not well understood, 
 or at least has not elicited much attention from those who have had the care 
 of milk stock, and made dairying a specialty. It is only of late years and 
 since the inauguration of the factory system, that American dairymen have 
 had their attention called to the various causes influencing the quality of 
 milk. We have now a class of men following a distinct and special calling 
 — men whose time and thoughts are almost wholly given to the manipulation 
 of milk in butter and cheese manufacture. 
 
 The competition between different factories and the discrimination made 
 by dealers in dairy products, have stimulated these workers in milk to make 
 close observation and inquiry concerning the condition of milk; and their 
 investigations have brought to light many things that are new respecting the 
 material upon which they are employed. From the investigations of these 
 men, old theories, long promulgated as truths, have been exploded and shown 
 to be false. As we become better informed as to the nature of milk, and the 
 causes influencing its quality, our dairy products improve, and any one who 
 has watched the progress made in this department during the last half-dozen 
 years, cannot but come to the conclusion that American dairy products are 
 destined to reach a standard of flavor and quality surpassing in excellence 
 anything that has hitherto been produced. 
 
 Among the new class of questions now claiming the attention of intelli- 
 gent cheese manufacturers, is the one we have named, viz. : the influence upon 
 milk resulting from cows breathing bad odors while at pasture. That milk 
 is often tainted in this way has long been suspected by observing cheese 
 
182 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 manufacturers, though it was difficult to trace out the cause and establish the 
 principle. A few years ago Mr. Foster of Oneida Co., N. Y., brought this 
 question prominently before the American Dairymen's Association and gave 
 undoubted evidence that bad milk could come from such a source. He was 
 having considerable trouble with the milk at his factory, and finally traced it 
 to his own dairy, where the greatest care was taken in milking, in the clean- 
 liness of milk vessels, and everything pertaining to the dairy. This fact led 
 him to investigate the matter thoroughly, to examine the water and feed with 
 which the cows were supplied, together with the health and treatment of the 
 stock, in the hope of discovering the cause. Finding nothing at fault in these 
 particulars, and the trouble still continuing, the conclusion forced itself upon 
 him that the cause must come from the cows inhaling bad odors. In a field 
 adjoining one part of his pasture a neighbor had left exposed a dead horse, 
 which in its decomposition carried a bad odor over that part of the pasture. 
 Here the cows in feeding inhaled a sufficient quantity of the offending gases 
 to taint the milk, as he concluded ; for on calculating the time it was found 
 that the trouble with the milk dated at about the period the horse was left so 
 exposed. Arguing from these premises he had the putrifying carcass removed 
 and buried, when the trouble in the milk immediately disappeared. 
 
 Mr. L. B. Aenold, a very close observer and of much experience in 
 handling milk, gives a similar account of tainted milk caused by cows breath- 
 ing air polluted by carrion. In this case the trouble in the milk was traced 
 to one particvilar dairy, and a committee was appointed to visit the premises. 
 The committee found nothing at the stable, in the milking nor in the general 
 care of utensils, to cause tainted milk. But on examining the pastures they 
 did find the air polluted by carrion, upon the removal of which, as in the 
 other case, the taint in the milk at once disappeared. I could enumerate 
 other cases of similar character, and the evidence warrants the conclusion 
 that milk can be tainted in hot weather by cows inhaling a polluted atmos- 
 phere like that we have named. If the facts are worthy of credit, and the 
 conclusion is correctly drawn, it opens up a very important question for 
 dairymen, in the production of milk. 
 
 IS MILK IMPROVED BY EXPOSURE TO THE AIR WHILE COOLING? 
 
 One of the leading questions now being discussed by cheese manufacturers 
 is, the importance of cooling milk at the farm and as soon as drawn from the 
 cow, if it is to be carried to the factory. I was the first to bring the subject 
 to the attention of New York dairymen several years ago, and though I 
 have persistently urged its importance from time to time, it is only quite 
 recently that its necessity has been generally acknowledged. 
 
 That milk properly cooled at the farm will arrive at the factory in better 
 condition than it would had the animal heat been retained, no one having any 
 experience in handling milk at a factory for a moment doubts. Experiments 
 upon this point have been numerous, and results have demonstrated the fact 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 183 
 
 in the most positive manner. But while it is now universally admitted that 
 cooling has a preservative influence upon milk, it is not so clear to all that a 
 free exposure of it to the air during the cooling process improves its flavor. 
 There are those who contend that the cooling of milk by any process, will at 
 the same time deodorize it ; in other words, that the animal odor is a " bug- 
 bear " — that milk as soon as drawn from the cow may be placed in an air-tight 
 vessel, and cooled down to 60°, and may then be carted to the factory, and 
 will be as perfect in flavor and condition as it would if all its particles had 
 been freely exposed to the air during the process of cooling. The question 
 is one of considerable importance, since there are two classes of coolei's 
 before the public ; one representing the first and the other the last principle. 
 I have always held that freshly-drawn milk is improved by being exposed to 
 a current of pure air ; that the health of the cow, her food, water, and various 
 other circumstances have an influence upon her milk, rendering it at times 
 imperfect, and rank in flavor ; and that its exposure to the air takes out, in 
 some degree at least, disagreeable gases, making it more palatable. We 
 know that other substances infected with a disagreeable odor are often 
 improved by being exposed to the air, or are freed of it altogether ; and it 
 is not easy to see why milk may not be subject to the same law. Perhaps if 
 milk was always in perfect condition an exposure to the atmosphere while 
 cooling would not be deemed so impoi'tant. 
 
 I cannot say that with all milk at all seasons, an exposure to the air for 
 the purposes referred to would be necessary. That must be a matter of 
 experiment and investigation. But the fact that milk is produced often under 
 unfavorable circumstances ; and that it sometimes possesses a taint before it 
 is drawn from the cow, would seem to favor the notion that airing it would 
 be beneficial. The exposure to the air of milk coming from cows fed upon 
 turnips may not free it altogether from the turnip flavor ; but the chance for 
 its improvement, I think, would be greater from this treatment than to shut 
 it out from the air, and to cool it in a way that permits no gases to escape. A 
 few years ago I prevailed upon Mr. Arnold to investigate and experiment in 
 this matter, in order to see if my own experiments and conclusions were 
 correct. He arrived at the same results. In order to show that there is no 
 necessary connection between animal heat and animal odor, and that animal 
 heat does not difier from heat derived from other sources, he made the follow- 
 ing experiments, which I give in his own words : 
 
 " By abstracting the heat rapidly by an application of ice and cold water, 
 I easily succeeded in removing the heat and leaving the odor in the milk. It 
 is true that in experiments for this pui-pose, the odor was not so apparent to 
 the olfactory nerves as to the organs of taste. The animal odor became an 
 animal ^avor. But upon warming the milk again the odor revived. Then 
 by the use of a filter of pulverized charcoal, I succeeded perfectly in remov- 
 ing every trace of animal odor from milk when first drawn and leaving the 
 animal heat in the milk." 
 
184 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 After pointing out what animal odor is, he says : — " Because the cowy 
 smell has died away when the milk is down to 70° or below, it has usually 
 been supposed that the odor or cause of the odor was whoUy removed. But 
 it is by no means necessarily so ; for unless the cooling has been very slow, 
 or the milk has been spread so thin as to make the exit of the gases easy, 
 the cause of the odor (the condensed gases) will be there, and be readily 
 detected by the taste ; and at 68° or 60° it will remain there until the milk 
 sours. The cowy flavor is most effectually preserved when milk is cooled in 
 a close vessel shut out from the air, and the heat absorbed away by an appli- 
 cation of ice and cold water." 
 
 Again : " The gas in milk varies both in quality and relative effect. For 
 instance, it is in the smallest amount when the cow is in good health and 
 quiet. It is more abundant when actively exercised, as when sharply driven 
 to the yard by dogs. It needs but little hurrying, especially in the morning, 
 to make the effect apparent in cheese. It is different in health and disease, 
 and very abundant and very infectious in cases of fever. There is more in a 
 state of debility than of strength ; and more when pinched with cold than 
 when comfortably warm. 
 
 " The most marked effects that I have observed, have been produced by 
 the odor of milk from cows in a feverish state — a state that may generally be 
 detected readily by smelling the milk. It becomes so infectious that a small 
 quantity — the milk of a single cow even — will infect a whole vat full of good 
 milk. In connection with the rennet, it becomes a ferment, inducing rapid 
 changes in the milk and curd. New gases are evolved, which, becoming 
 more elastic as the temperature is raised, swell out the lump of curds, giving 
 them a soft spongy feel, till at length their bulk is so much increased that 
 they float in the whey. But perhaps some will say this is the result of 
 diseased milk ; it is not chargeable to animal odor ; the milk is faulty. I 
 once thought so too, but I have found since that I was mistaken. In the 
 worst cases I have seen, the milk, for aught I can discover, is as good as any 
 other. It may be somewhat altered in the proportion of its elements, perhaps 
 it is, but it does not differ materially from other milk when new. I filtered 
 a sample of feverish milk in the fore part of August, when the weather was 
 so very hot and dry, and floating curds were so very common ; the result was 
 very striking. The filter was all ready and the milk turned in as soon as 
 drawn, and though it stood at about 90" when it issued from the filter, it was 
 free from any offensive odor, and its flavor was delicious," and very different, 
 he remarks, from milk cooled by ice-water to a low temperature. 
 
 The remedy he suggests, is to give the gases from which the odor arises 
 a chance to escape as soon as possible after the milk is drawn ; for the reason 
 that they are then more elastic and escape more easily, as well also to keep 
 them from imparting an influence to the milk from their presence. And he 
 remarks that this should be done at the dairy^ because it is generally a little 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 185 
 
 too ^late when milk gets to the factory. The question is one ol much interest 
 to cheese-makers, and should be studied. 
 
 CA2SnsriNG AND KEEPING MILK IN GOOD ORDEE. 
 
 The Food Committee of the Society of Arts in England, has been discuss- 
 ing, recently, the means to be employed for preserving milk in good order 
 during the transit over long distances to the city. It appears that milk pass- 
 ing over the Great Western Railway to London, is in cans holding sixteen 
 imperial gallons. An effort has been made to reduce the size of the cans to 
 a capacity of about four gallons each, similar to those adopted in France. 
 
 THE FRENCH CAN 
 
 has a tight-fitting cover, and the vessels are completely filled, so as to prevent 
 disturbance of the particles of milk, by motion in transit. It is said the milk 
 passing over the railways in France, arrives at its destination generally in 
 good order. The question therefore arose as to the advantage of these cans, 
 over those of larger size, if any, in the preservation of milk during its transit 
 to the city. Mr. Geo. Braham, managing director of the Express Country 
 Milk Company, and who appears to have had large experience in this business, 
 and to have been also a close observer as to the condition of milk under 
 various circumstances, opposed reducing the size of the cans, on account of 
 the greater trouble in moving to and from the milk vans. He stated that the 
 great secret in having milk in good condition was in allowing it to cool 
 sufiiciently before being placed in the cans. The shaking of the milk in the 
 conveyance would not be greater in a large can than in a small one, provided 
 in both cans they were filled thoroughly full. It was his opinion if milk was 
 packed at a temperature of fifty to sixty degrees, the shaking would have no 
 prejudicial effect upon it. If the milk was packed at seventy or eighty 
 degrees, the agitation would tend to separate the butter and to promote the 
 deposit of caseine ; and if the temperature of the air was no higher than that 
 of the milk, no injury would be occasioned by the admission of the air to 
 the milk, while it remained in the cans. He stated that a large quantity of 
 milk arriving at night was left standing at the station until four o'clock next 
 morning. The milk that was put in the cans warm and the lids kept on all 
 night, acquired a bad smell, and it would take from two to three hours' expo- 
 sure for that smell to pass off. 
 
 EFFECT OF AGITATING MILK IN TRAVELING. 
 
 As to the question whether the agitation of the milk in traveling destroyed 
 the cream in the milk brought into London, Mr. Baetlett replied that the 
 globules would not be destroyed if the milk was put into the cans at a 
 sufficiently low temperature, say sixty degrees. 
 
 effect of SOILS ON KEEPING QUALITY OF MILK. 
 
 The Express Country Milk Company received milk for two yeai'S from 
 Wareham in Dorsetshire, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles by rail, 
 
186 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 and seven miles by road. It arrived in London in fine condition. This result 
 was attributed in part to the chalky nature of the soil where the milk was 
 produced, and to the thorough manner in which the milk was cooled before 
 being packed. He stated that it was a well known fact, that the milk of cows 
 fed ofl" heavy clay land, would not keep so long by several hours, as that 
 produced on light or chalky soils. The influence of soil upon the keeping 
 qualities of milk, is a question which has received but little attention from 
 the American Dairyman, and it would be well if experiments were made to 
 determine this point. 
 
 EFFECT OF CARRIAGE UPON THE CREAM PRODUCT. 
 
 Milk that is carried does not thi'ow up so much cream when set, as it 
 would if placed in the milk house at the farm. From the experiments in 
 England, the amount of cream which rose to the surface of the milk when 
 set, was rendered less by about twenty per cent, through traveling, that per- 
 centage being retained in the milk. As to the advantage of cooling milk 
 before canning, in order to prevent cream from rising and churning into 
 butter while traveling ; Mr. B. said that the express company received ten cans 
 of milk from one dairy every day last summer, and there was not a particle 
 of butter in them, though they traveled two miles by road to the station, 
 forty-eight miles by rail to the metropolitan terminus, and three miles by van 
 to the place of business. Some of the cans were only three parts full, and yet 
 the cream was retained in the milk, although from being cooled it would 
 take some hours longer for the cream to rise. 
 
 HOW ENGLISH CREAM IS TRANSPORTED. 
 
 When cream is sent in a separate state to London it is packed solid in 
 bottles prepared for the purpose, and kept cool by grass or cabbage leaves 
 fastened around the bottles. 
 
 MILKING FOR THE LONDON MARKET. 
 
 For supplying the London market with milk, the system of twelve hours 
 milking is generally adopted. The milk supplied in the early morning is 
 milked during the night, say from seven P. M. to two A. M., the hour 
 depending upon the time the last train at night, or the early train, calls at the 
 country station. The afternoon milk is milked from nine to eleven A. M., 
 and is distributed between two and four o'clock, P. M. 
 
 OPEN OR CLOSED CANS. 
 
 The English milk can has holes in the lid of the can, through which air is 
 admitted to the milk. The Parisian milk is generally acknowledged to keep 
 longer than that supplied in London, and this has been attributed to its being 
 hermetically closed in the can while traveling. It was stated, however, 
 that the real secret of the matter was, that the French dairymen mixed 
 bicarbonate of soda with their milk, which served to avert decomposition, and 
 hence the milk was kept in good order, for a longer period than milk in its 
 natural state. I scive the main features or substance of remarks brought out, 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 187 
 
 as they have a px'actical bearing on the great question now agitating the dairy- 
 men of America — the means of getting milk in good order to the factories. 
 
 COAGULATIO]sr OF MILK. 
 
 We have now come to that jiart of our subject in which some of the 
 phenomena connected with the coagulation of milk, and its separation into 
 curd and whey, may be considered. I shall speak in another place of rennet ; 
 a term used by dairymen to designate the stomach of the young calf after it 
 is properly cleansed, dried, and prepared for the purpose of coagulating milk 
 for cheese making. But the explanation of its action on milk, as well as the 
 thickening or curdling of milk from souring, together with other somewhat 
 peculiar behavior of milk, Avhich has not been satisfactorily accounted for on 
 the old theories, will perhaps best be treated in this connection. I have 
 alluded to the aid which has been given by microscopic investigations in 
 the elucidation of these questions, and to the theory now set up by scien- 
 tific men in regard to the coagulation of milk. In the discussion of this 
 topic, I can only give briefly the outline of the theory, and I shall draw 
 largely in what I have to say from the recent address of Prof. Caldwell, 
 before the American Dairymen's Association. But in the first place, let us 
 go back a little to the j)oint where the coagulation of milk was alluded to. 
 If we take a piece of the dried rennet, soak it in water, and pour the liquid 
 into a portion of warm milk it soon begins to thicken, and turns into a jelly- 
 like clot, and after a while it separates into whey and curd. Scientific and 
 practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is held in solution by a 
 small quantity of alkali, that when in warm weather the milk curdles, lactic 
 acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from a portion of the 
 sugar of milk, and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali which holds the 
 caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk. 
 
 Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the 
 sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates sponta- 
 neously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of rennet, 
 in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the removal 
 of the free alkali by lactic acid. This theory, says Voklcker, is not quite 
 consistent with facts. The caseine in milk cannot be said to be held in solu- 
 tion by free alkali ; for although it is true that milk often has a slightly 
 alkaline reaction, it is likewise true that perfectly fresh milk is sometimes 
 slightly acid. We might as well say, therefore, that the caseine is held in 
 solution by a little free acid as by free alkali. 
 
 Again, newly-drawn milk is often perfectly neutral ; but whether milk be 
 neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution, 
 which cannot therefore depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that 
 milk when it turns sour curdles readily. It is not the fact that a good deal 
 of acid curdles milk, which I dispute ; but the assumption that the caseine in 
 milk is held in solution by free alkali. 
 
188 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 "the actiok or eennet upon milk, 
 then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have 
 treated this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as ferments, A 
 rennet it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free lactic acid " 
 I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated, and not 
 simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh and 
 neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is perfectly 
 neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded in 
 separating the curd by rennet, and, what is more, obtained a whey which 
 had an alkaline reaction." 
 
 And he says further : — " What may be the precise mode in which rennet 
 acts upon milk I do not presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui 
 generis^ which as yet is only known by its effects. We at present are even 
 unacquainted with the j)i'ecise chemical character and composition of the 
 active principle in rennet, and have not even a name for it." 
 
 " Now, we know," says Professor Caldwell, " that any structure that 
 has been built up by the vital forces acting in the vegetable or animal world, 
 from the simplest plant that grows in water to the most perfect animal that 
 walks on land, will, after life has departed, begin to suffer change if left 
 exposed to the air under ordinary circumstances ; and this change will go on 
 unless stopped by some artificial application, till the structure has nearly dis- 
 appeared, and nothing more is left than would remain of the body were it at 
 once put into the fire and burned — only a few ashes — while carbonic acid 
 and ammonia have passed off into the atmosphere. Before this final change 
 is reached, however, a great many intermediate products are formed, some 
 of which are useful to man, some are poisonous, some have foul or agreeable 
 odors, and some have peculiar flavors." "These changes and compositions are 
 usually classified under three heads — ■ 
 
 DECAY, EEEMENTATION AND DECOMPOSITION. 
 
 " Decay is simply a slow combustion or burning of the body ; it depends 
 upon a free supply of air from which the necessary oxygen is absorbed. In 
 both fermentation and putrefaction, on the other hand, there is nothing but a 
 re-arrangement of the particles or elements already in the body, sometimes 
 with and sometimes without the evolution of gaseous products. If these 
 gaseous products have no offensive odor, or if no ammonia is formed, the 
 process is called fermentation, and generally some useful application of a 
 part of the product of a fermentation is made — thus, sugar is converted by 
 fermentation into a gas, carbonic acid and alcohol ; and in the preparation of 
 bread we cause sugar in the dough to ferment by means of yeast, so as to 
 produce carbonic acid, that in its attempt to escape makes the bread light ; 
 while for beer and wine we cause sugar to ferment for the sake of alcohol. 
 If, on the other hand, a part of the products have an offensive odor, or ammo- 
 nia is found among these products, we call the change putrefaction. Ammonia 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 189 
 
 is always one of the 23roducts of true putrefaction, and the offensive odor 
 nearly always, though it may sometimes be weak. All substances which are 
 liable to decay (fermentation or putrefaction), may be separated into two 
 great divisions, namely : — Those that are composed of three elements, carbon, 
 hydrogen, and oxygen, and those which in addition to these three have one 
 more, nitrogen. Compounds of the first class, like sugar, starch and fats, are 
 usually very stable ; their elements are firmly united together, like the links 
 of a strong chain. Compounds of the second class, on the other hand, like 
 white of eggs, flesh and the caseine of milk are unstable ; the introduction 
 of the element nitrogen has made a weak link in the chain. 
 
 " Now it has been found by experiment, if the white of an egg or a piece 
 of meat is boiled in a glass flask with water for an hour or so, and the mouth 
 of the flask is then closed with a plug of carefully cleaned cotton, or with a 
 cork through which a glass tube passes, that is drawn out to a fine orifice at 
 both ends, and outside the flask has a long arm bent downward, the substance 
 will remain unchanged for months, even in a place where all the circumstan- 
 ces are made favorable as possible for putrefaction — free access of air through 
 the interstices of the cotton plug, or through the glass tube — a plenty of 
 moisture, and a suitable temperature ; and that no essential change has been 
 produced in the substance by the boiling, may be shown by simply removing 
 the plug, when putrefaction and decomposition will set in. On the other 
 hand, if the experiment is varied only to this : that if the substance is not 
 thoroughly heated to the temperature of boiling heat, putrefaction may 
 speedily set in, even though the flask be closed air-tight. Now, microscopic 
 examination has revealed the fact, that every case of fermentation or putre- 
 faction is attended with the development or growth of living organisms; 
 most of which at least belong to the vegetable kingdom, and the present most 
 generally accepted view — that which has the balance of evidence in its favor 
 — is, that these organisms are the cause of all fermentation and putrefaction ; 
 that the dust of the atmosphere, as well as all fermenting or putrefying matter, 
 contains either the germs of the microscopic fungi, or the fungi themselves 
 in one stage of development or another ; that these germs fall on all sub- 
 stances exposed to the air, and that if the substance so exposed is one that 
 can nourish their further development, they will vegetate and increase, and in 
 so doing cause the substance itself to decompose — that these fungi like all 
 others, and like all plants, require moisture and a moderately elevated tem- 
 perature for their growth, as well as food for their sustenance — are killed by 
 exposure to a temperature of two hundred and twelve degrees, Fahrenheit, 
 and that they live at the expense of a portion of the substance in which they 
 grow, while the rest is decomposed, that is, fermented or putrefied, with 
 the final result of the breaking down of the whole structure. Accordingly, 
 the reason why the meat in the flask closed with a plug of cotton is not 
 attacked, is that the germs, minute as they may be, are yet entangled among 
 the fibers of the cotton, so that none reach the meat ; they do not attack the 
 
i90 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 substance in the flask closed with a cork and glass tube, because the germs 
 being heavier than the air, can be transported only by currents in it, or by 
 cohesion to some moving body. There is no current of air passing through 
 the glass tube into the flask that is sufliciently strong to carry them up 
 through this long arm. 
 
 " The reason why previous boiling is necessary is, that every substance that 
 has been exposed to the air has some of the atmospheric dust containing these 
 germs adhering to it, which, if they are not killed, will begin to vegetate and 
 excite decomposition as soon as outward circumstances are favorable. The 
 reason why substances of the second class will decompose more readily than 
 those of the first class, containing no nitrogen, is, not only that the elements 
 of the second class are more feebly held together, as before said, but also that 
 these fungi must have nitrogen iu their food, and that although they can, to a 
 limited extent, draw it from the large supply in the atmosphere, if exposed 
 to that, yet they can get it far more easily and naturally from the nitrogen- 
 eous matter in which they take root. 
 
 " The result of the growth of these fungi on or in a substance, or in other 
 words, the products of tlie fermentation or putrefaction which that growth 
 induces, depend mostly on the nature of the substance, and the particular 
 stage of development of the fungus, and often, but not always, upon the 
 species of fungus ; not always, for in some cases several diflferent species of 
 fungi produce the same efiect upon the same substance. On the whole, the 
 result depends more upon the chemical composition of the substance that is 
 decomposed, than upon the species of fungus producing the decomposition. 
 The transformation which these fungi undergo is very remarkable. They 
 assume many different forms, adapting themselves to the chemical composition 
 of the substances with which they come in contact." 
 
 THE FUNGUS AFFECTING CHEESE, 
 
 The particular fungus intimately connected with the art of cheese-making 
 is said to be the Pencillium crustaceum. It is found almost everywhere on 
 the surface of the earth, constituting generally the greenish-blue mold that 
 appears on vegetable and animal matters, and is concerned in all the common 
 processes of fermentation and putrefaction. It is composed of delicate white 
 filaments or threads that bear on their ends the groups of spores or germs, 
 which to tlxe naked eye appear like a fine, bluish-green dust. If these spores 
 are scattered over substances similar in chemical composition to that which 
 produced the mold, it can be reproduced again and so on from generation to 
 generation. But if these spores be sown on distilled water, they swell up 
 and burst, expelling a great number of minute bodies, called zoospores. These 
 soon begin to grow by elongation, and as each elongates partition walls are 
 thrown across, so that one sac or cell becomes sevei-al, and the multiplication 
 of cells is so rapid that from a single zoospore an almost incredible number 
 of new cells can be produced in a few hours. According to Hallieb these 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 191 
 
 cells, forming delicate, brittle chains, are found in great numbers every night, 
 in the mouth or throat of all the digestive organs. If the spores of the mold 
 are put under a liquid rich in nitrogen they swell up and expel the zoospores, 
 and then each zoospore sends, out a little bud that soon becomes detached 
 from the mother cell and in its turn produces another cell, and so each new 
 cell goes on multiplying. 
 
 To this form of the fungus the name of micrococcus has been given, and 
 Hallier considers it the cause of all putrefaction, and calls it putrefactive 
 yeast. According to him both rennet and cheese are highly charged with 
 this yeast. If the micrococcus cell be put in a liquid poor in nitrogen, it 
 produces the common yeast of the housewife, which multiplies as the micro- 
 coccus., and causes the common alcoholic fermentation. This form of the 
 fungus is called cryptococcus. Again, if the peyicillium spores be put in 
 milk which has been boiled to kill all germs in it, we have within two days 
 the same result as when they were sown in a liquid rich in nitrogen, viz. : 
 the zoospores and the microocccus cells, and so soon as this m,icrococcus 
 appears we have souring and curdling of the milk. And when a small 
 quantity of lactic acid has been thus formed a new condition has been 
 assumed by the fungus. The minute m,icrococcus cells enlarge as they do 
 when about to pass into the cryptococcus., but with quite another result, 
 viz., the production of elongated cells, four-sided and often with abrupt 
 square ends, possessing a peculiar luster and multiplying by subdivision into 
 chains of cells, and this form is called arthrococcus, or jointed yeast, and is 
 the ferment which attends the formation of lactic acid in the souring of milk. 
 
 If the pencillium spores be sown in completely fermented wine or beer, 
 wherein all the sugar has been converted into alcohol, we have another form 
 of yeast which is concerned in the formation of vinegar. Under different 
 circumstances at least six forms of cells can be obtained from the spores of 
 the pencillium crustaceum., and any of these forms, if sown on a substance 
 similar to that which produced the mold, will produce the same mold again. 
 The wonderful rapidity with which these fungi produce new cells is shown 
 by the fact that one single pencillium spore to start with will produce in the 
 space of twenty-four hours, at a low estimate, four hundred million micro- 
 coccus cells. The spores also have a strong hold of life. They can be dried, 
 frozen and heated to any temperature short of 212®, without injury, and will 
 retain their germinating power a long time, in some cases three and a-half 
 years." 
 
 Enough has been said, I think, to indicate the basis of this theory and the 
 line of argument adopted. Were I familiar with microscopic examinations, 
 and the peculiar habits of fungi or this low order of life, I might be able 
 perhaps to present this matter more clearly ; but from a long and intimate 
 acquaintance with the behavior of milk in its relation to dairy practice, I 
 can judge somewhat as to these views, and they give at least a plausible 
 explanation to many things connected with the action of milk that have been 
 
192 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 shrouded in mystery. If the cause of the conversion of sugar of milk into 
 lactic acid is due to fermentation, or the result of the action of living organ- 
 isms on the substance fermented, we should have such organisms here. 
 Hallier and Pasteur, and others, have proved that the souring of milk is 
 accompanied by a species of yeast ferment, different from the ordinary yeast 
 or alcohol ferment ; it is started by the micrococcus yeast, and its continu- 
 ance is attended with the production of regular lactic acid yeast cells or 
 arthrococcus below the surface. In the milk as it comes from the cow we 
 have the micrococcus cells already formed. Hallier proved their presence 
 in sow's milk, and has always found them in the blood, even of healthy 
 animals; hence it is reasonable to suppose they are in all milk. And it 
 appears so long as these cells remain unchanged and do not grow and multiply, 
 the milk Avill not be affected by their presence. Hallier asserts that the 
 action of rennet is due simply to the fact that it, or its extract, contains in an 
 extraordinary measure the micrococcus of the particular fungi which produce 
 the change in milk called coagulation ; that without this micrococcus, or the 
 germs that give rise to it, the change will not take place in the manner that 
 we ordinarily bring it to pass ; and that the reason why if the extract of 
 rennet is boiled a few minutes it will no longer coagulate milk any more than 
 it will turn it sour, is because Ave have killed the fungus ; and that the coagu- 
 lation is attended with, or is the result of a rapid growth and multiplication 
 of the micrococcus ; consequently the curd must contain it, and by still further 
 increase in the ripened cheese, that is saturated and penetrated through and 
 through with it. 
 
 HEAT AFFECTHiTG RENNETS. 
 
 "W^hen I first commenced cheese-making, twenty years' ago, I lost a large 
 number of rennets by hanging them near a stove-pipe that was kept very hot. 
 The veils were exposed to this heat for several weeks, and when I came to 
 use them they would not coagulate the milk. Of course I learned a lesson 
 from this ; but I could not fully satisfy myself then why their action was lost ; 
 but upon the theory here suggested it is evident the fungus was destroyed. 
 We know, too, that excessive washing of the stomach when taken from the 
 calf will almost wholly destroy its virtue ; hence the experienced dairyman 
 is careful only to wipe off with a cloth any dirt that may adhere to it. The 
 washing evidently removes a large number of micrococcus cells, thereby 
 accounting for its loss of strength. 
 
 Now, it appears so long as we cultivate a friendship with the micrococcus, 
 giving it good, pure milk to feed upon and controlling its action by tempera- 
 ture, air and cleanliness it is harmless, and we make it subserve a very useful 
 purpose. But if by any means we allow other fungi, or such as originate in 
 putrid matter, to get possession of the milk, their influence is harmful in the 
 highest degree. Nothing is of more common observation in the practical 
 handling of milk than its especial susceptibility to emanations from putrid 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 193 
 
 matter, and so readily can these minute germs make their way anywhere and 
 everywhere, that if the air containing them in unusual quantity is inhaled by 
 the cows, their milk may be infected before it leaves the bag. We see then 
 how important it is that the utmost cleanliness be observed with everything 
 that comes in contact with milk. 
 
 A PARTICLE OF TAINT 
 
 in the air or on the walls of the dairy, or in the pails or vats, means a quan- 
 tity of fungus germs, often a multitude of them, all ready and most willing 
 to take possession of the milk and to hold it too, when once in possession, so 
 that no process will expel them, except such as will ruin the product which 
 we are manufacturing. From what has been said I think it will be plain that 
 in this single subject of milk alone, there is ample field for investigation, 
 investigation that will tax all our skill, all our talents, and which will afford 
 ample material for study for a long time, and to master which in all its details 
 is no holiday affair. And I must confess after twenty years' practical expe- 
 rience and observation in handling milk, after years of labor in correcting old 
 abuses and errors, and leading our dairymen up to the improved manufacture 
 of to-day, I can still see an immense field for investigation and improvement. 
 And I think there is some inducement for young men to study these questions 
 and perfect themselves in dairy practice. 
 
 FIEST-CLASS CHEESE-MAKEBS 
 
 in New York command a salary of from |1,000 to $1,300 for the season of 
 eight months, and the demand for good cheese-makers has been for several 
 years larger than the supply. I am in receipt of many applications from 
 factoi'ies every year for cheese-makers, only a part of which can be filled, and 
 if the business continues to prosper it must continue to offer a fair field of 
 employment for young men who have nothing but their hands and brains with 
 which to make their way in the world. 
 
 CONDENSED MILK. 
 
 Within a few years past milk has been put upon the market in a form or 
 condition to keep sound and fresh in flavor for long periods. The importance 
 of the discovery of condensing and preserving milk can scarcely be estimated 
 at the present time, but there can be little doubt, as the article becomes 
 better known among consumers of milk in cities, that it is destined to revo- 
 lutionize the prevailing system of the milk trade. Before proceeding to give 
 some of the processes for condensing milk which have come under my obser- 
 vation, the following brief history of the origin and development of the 
 condensed milk trade, from the London Milk Journal, will be in place. 
 
 ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OP THE CONDENSED MILK TRADE. 
 
 Condensed Milk should, with greater propriety, be styled " Preserved 
 Milk," since, although the milk is condensed, the main object sought is, its 
 preservation from decay. For many years there have been upon the market 
 13 
 
194 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 preparations called "Desiccated Milk," "Milk Powders," "Milk Essence," 
 etc. But these were articles prepared from milk, rather than actual milk. They 
 found, however, prior to the introduction of condensed milk proper, consid- 
 erable demand for use at sea and in the colonies, where anything that has 
 the appearance of milk will in the nature of tlie case command more or less 
 sale. Still they did not enter into family consumption to any extent in Eng- 
 land. The desideratum was a preserved milk which should be so pure, 
 wholesome and palatable, as to take the place of crude milk in large cities. 
 
 To Mr. Gail Borden of New York, should be awarded the credit of first 
 producing preserved milk that filled all these conditions. Indeed, all the 
 brands of good or even fair quality now sold, are prepared substantially under 
 the system originated by him. A man of intense energy and unyielding 
 tenacity of purpose, and an inventor of great ingenuity if not of marked 
 scientific attainments, he added to all this the enthusiasm of a philanthropist 
 who believed that preserved milk would be a boon to humanity. As long 
 ago as 1846 he began his experiments, conducted simultaneously with others 
 whose aim was the preservation of meat. It may be mentioned here that in 
 the London Exhibition of 1851, a gold medal was awarded to Mr. Borden 
 for his " Meat Biscuit." "We believe that he did not at this time exhibit his 
 condensed milk. It was not until about 1856 the he himself arrived at the 
 conviction that he had obtained the quality he had been seeking. Mean- 
 while he had expended energy, time, and quite a fortune in his experiments, 
 for he at length saw that to experiment to advantage a large amount of 
 material, involving much expense, must be used in each instance. 
 
 At an early stage of his experiments, he decided that milk could not be 
 preserved in a dry form as " desiccated," or " powdered," or " solidified," but 
 must be left in a semi-liquid state. That some preservative agent must be 
 added, and that nothing but water must be eliminated, also became apparent. 
 The result is that condensed milk, as now known to the trade and consumers, 
 consists of milk from which only water has been taken, and to which nothing 
 but sugar has been added, the product being of the consistency of honey, and 
 by dilution in water reconvertible to milk itself, somewhat sweetened. It 
 may be stated in this connection, that all the dry preserved milks require to 
 be dissolved in hot water, while the condensed milk prepared under the 
 Borden system readily dissolves in cold watei". 
 
 By 1861 Mr. Borden had quite extensively introduced his article, and 
 four or five factories were in operation, capable of producing in the aggregate 
 five thousand cans of one pound each per day. During the War of the 
 Rebellion, large quantities were required for the Northern Armies, the 
 officers and many privates purchasing it of the sutlers, while the hospitals 
 were supplied by the Government and the various Christian and Aid Societies. 
 This gave an impetus to the trade, at the same time that the shipping demand 
 steadily increased. About this time Mr. Borden put upon the market for 
 city use, what he calls 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 195 
 
 plain" condeksed milk. 
 
 This is prepared in the same way as the other, except that no sugar is 
 added, and it is not hermetically sealed. It will remain sound from one to 
 two weeks, and it is so convenient, as well as economical, that it is stated 
 that now more than one-third of the milk used in New York City is of this 
 kind. With the end of the war and the dissolution of the armies, the demand 
 for sugared condensed milk fell off, and the manufacturers, who had been 
 stimulated to too great a production, turned their attention to this " plain 
 condensed milk." It would be well if enterprise and capital and philanthro- 
 phy could be enlisted in supplying London with this form of milk, to the 
 extent that New York and other American cities are now su23plied with it. 
 We have no means of estimating the present extent of the manufacture of 
 condensed milk in the United States. For this we must wait for the returns 
 of the census of 1870. However, we know that the capacity of the eight or 
 ten factories on the Hudson, in Connecticut, Pennsylvania and Illinois, is not 
 less than five hundred cases of four dozen pound cans per day, equal to eight 
 million five hundred thousand pounds per annum. It may be stated that one 
 pound of the condensed is equivalent to four or five pouuds of crude milk. 
 
 THE EXPOETS OF CONDENSED MILK 
 
 (combined with sugar,) from the United States during the twelve months 
 ending September 30, 1870, amounted to a declared custom house valuation 
 of $200,000, equal in round numbers to £40,000. In the year 1869 it was 
 imported into England from New York to the value of upwards of £16,000. 
 The bulk of the remainder exported from New York was sent to South 
 America, India, Australia, and China, while that sent to London and Liver- 
 pool was mainly held in bond, and sent eventually to the colonies or disposed 
 of as ship's stores. We now pass to the introduction of the manufacture of 
 the Borden kind of condensed milk this side of the Atlantic, and to the 
 development of its manufacture and sale in Europe. In 1865 an American 
 gentleman who had noted the advantages of the article in the American 
 army during the four years of the war, became resident in Switzerland in the 
 capacity of U. S. Consul. Remembering the cheapness and richness of Swiss 
 milk, the cheapness of labor, and other facilities afforded in that country, he 
 conceived the idea of preparing 
 
 CONDENSED MILK IN SWITZERLAND. 
 
 The ultimate success of his project has abundantly proved the soundness 
 of his conception. He promoted the "Anglo-Swiss Condensed Milk Co.," 
 the extent of whose present business is set forth in the following extract 
 which we take from the " Grocer " of Dec. 31, 1870. The facts seem to have 
 been compiled from statistics procured at the Board of Trade, which were 
 doubtless obtained from the Report of the British Legation at Berne : 
 
 " In the Canton of Zug there has of late grown up a new mode of pre- 
 
196 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 serving the milk, which, owing to the good pasturage of that locality, is very 
 excellent in quality. In the Commune of Cham the Anglo-Swiss Condensed 
 Milk Co., with a capital of £12,000, employ about sixty operatives in their 
 factory, the tall chimney of which may be seen by the railway traveler passing 
 over the line from Lucerne to Zurich. The number of cows hired for the 
 year is fourteen hundred and forty, and the average amount of condensed 
 milk prepared daily during the three hundred and sixty-five days of the year, 
 as it is necessary to include the Sundays, is one hundred and ten cases of four 
 dozen each of one pound cans ; these equal one million nine hundred and 
 twenty-seven and two hundred cans as the produce of the year. The price 
 of the crude milk is seventeen cents per mass, or about one cent per quart, 
 and the daily cost of the cans made in the establishment amounts to £16 10s. 
 About one-half of the produce is sent direct to London, where one-half of 
 this is consumed, while the remainder goes for ship's stores, is exported to 
 the colonies and sent to the provincial towns of England. Entering as it 
 does into the daily food of the masses no duty should be imposed upon it ; at 
 present it is classed with confectionry and pays accordingly, whereas it is 
 milk ; at all events only the quantum of sugar which it contains should pay 
 duty, and this quantum is uniform and can easily be ascertained. The half 
 of the produce not sent to London is distributed over Germany, and there is 
 some demand from France and Russia. We have been informed that a large 
 shipment was placed in Paris two days before the investment of the city, 
 and balloon letters beg that a large supply may be ready to be sent in so soon 
 as the siege shall terminate. Owing to the demands from the sutlers who 
 supply the armies of Germany and France and the various aid societies for the 
 moment, this company is only able, with great difficulty, to keep an adequate 
 supply for their regular demands. The process of condensation has already 
 been fully described to our readers, who are now asked to patronize not only 
 other Swiss condensed milks but Irish condensed milk also. 
 
 " It should be mentioned that this company was the first in Europe to 
 introduce condensed milk to family use. Until its advent the article was 
 known as only for ship's stores and for colonial consumption. By extensive 
 and systematic advertising, and through the boundless energy which charac- 
 terizes your business Yankee, this company has received a large demand for 
 ordinary family consumption, not only in England but also in Germany and 
 Russia. In this respect its success may be largely attributed to the fact that 
 Baron Liebig and other authorities on questions of food, supported it heartily 
 from the first, and allowed the patronage of their names for publication. Its 
 success led naturally to the springing up of competitive companies. These 
 Jiave been established at Gruyeres and half-a-dozen other places in Switzer- 
 land, in Bavaria, in Holstein, in Ireland, and in England. But failing to 
 produce a standard quality, and wanting in prestige^ they have nearly all 
 ceased to manufacture." 
 
 All now known to the London trade are the " Anglo-Swiss " (Milk-maid 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 197 
 
 brand), Mr. Newman's "Irish Condensed Milk," at Mallow, near Cork, 
 (Harp brand), and the "English Condensed Milk Company," (Lion brand), 
 whose works are at Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. At one time the milk pre- 
 pared at Gruyeres had a good sale in London, but since the outbreak of the 
 war, in July, none of its brand has appeared here. In the spring of 1869 it 
 was announced that the 
 
 IRISH CONDENSED MILK 
 
 (Mr. Newman's) was about to be put upon the market. However, it was 
 not introduced until the spring of 1870, but then under powerful patronage. 
 We cannot say definitely what quantity Mr. Newman has prepared, but we 
 have reason to believe that it was about ten thousand cases of four dozen 
 one pound cans each. 
 
 THE " ENGLISH CONDENSED MILK COMPANY " 
 
 began to manufacture about the 1st of September, 1870. The editor of the 
 Food Joui'nal recently visited its works at Aylesbury. He seems to have 
 been very much struck by the system under which this Company prepares its 
 condensed milk; he remarks upon the " almost absurd cleanliness " observed. 
 We gather from his statement that this Company makes about twenty cases 
 of four dozen one pound cans six days per week. It seems that, unlike 
 the Swiss Company, they do not work Sundays. This company was registered 
 June, 1870, under the Limited Liability Act, as having a capital of £5,000 
 only, but it is fair to suppose, considering the extent of its works, that its 
 capital has since been considerably increased. It will doubtless still add to 
 its facilities as the demand increases. We have good authority for stating 
 that neither the Swiss nor the English Company has lately been able to 
 supply the call for their products. On the other hand, the competition 
 between the companies is so eager and keen, and prices thereby have been so 
 reduced that any new company will have to encounter great difficulties before 
 it can establish itself 
 
 It would be invidious in us to express any opinion as to the comparative 
 merits of the condensed milk ofiered to the public by these several companies. 
 That is the public's own concern ; the best and cheapest will in the end win, 
 as it is the nature of trade. The value of the condensed milk sold in London 
 daily is not less than £150. It is to be found at most shops in London, for 
 sale at tenpence per can, which is cheaper than ordinary crude milk." 
 
 THE BOEDEN FACTORIES — PROCESS OF CONDENSING. 
 
 Persons proposing to enter upon the business of condensed milk manu- 
 facture should visit some establishment of the kind, and make themselves 
 familiar with the various parts of the process, obtaining a knowledge of the 
 buildings and machinery in detail. There are several factories in operation 
 on the Borden plan, which is now considered the best, as with proper care a 
 very fine flavored and superior article is manufactured. The principal factories 
 are at Wassaic, N. Y., Livermore Falls, Maine, West Brookfield, Mass., 
 
198 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Winstead, Conn., and at Elgin, Illinois. The Elgin factory is quite noted for 
 its fine product under the management of Mr. C. Chujrch. I have examined 
 this factory and its operations several times, and present here some of the 
 leading features of the establishment, and its process of condensino-. 
 
 The main building is sixty-five feet by one hundred feet, three stories 
 high. Upon the ground floor there are four rooms. The bath room is forty- 
 five feet by sixty feet. Here the milk is prepared and condensed. The room 
 contains a milk receiver, heating vat and well, vacuum pan and pump. The 
 second room on the ground floor is to the right of the bath room, and here 
 the milk is cooled. It contains three vats for cooling milk, with capacity for 
 cooling fifty cans at a time. Spring water of the natural temperature of fifty 
 degrees at all seasons of the year, is used for cooling the milk. The third 
 room is used for a hall and store room, where sugar and tin are stored. The 
 fourth room is called the meat room. Here meat is prepared for cooking and 
 condensing. It has a meat chopper and force pump, the latter of which is 
 used for elevating rain water from a cistern located about ninety-five feet 
 from the building, and which is used for meat purposes. The boiler and 
 engine rooms are attached to north side of main building. It contains two 
 boilers and an engine of fifteen horse power. The chimney is eighty-five feet 
 high. In the rear of the boilers is the coal house. The cheese manufacturing 
 room is in the rear of the bath room, and is twenty by thirty feet. The 
 receiving room, where milk is delivered, is on the left of bath room. Here 
 the dairymen unload their milk and have their cans washed, steamed and 
 rinsed, so as to be prepared for milk the next day. A department like this 
 should be attached to every cheese or butter factory in the land, as the cans 
 are thoroughly cleaned, and the steaming effectually destroys all germs of 
 ferment. The second story is divided up into a room for preparing extract of 
 beef; tin room, where cans are made for putting up the milk ; sealing room, 
 where the condensed milk is filled into the smaller cans and sealed up, and 
 lastly, a room used for an office. The third story or floor, is used for general 
 store room, and together with the part leading over the boilers, is used 
 for curing cheese. Connected with the establishment is an ice house, thirty- 
 eight by fifty-five feet, and a box shop ; thus rendering the whoTe very com- 
 plete for doing the various kinds of work which belong to the condensing 
 business. 
 
 When I was last at Elgin, I found the Elgin Condensed Milk Establish- 
 ment putting up large quantities of condensed milk for the Boston and New 
 York markets. This business is yet in its infancy, but the time is not far 
 distant, in my opinion, when a very large trade will be done in this direction. 
 City consumers who are in the habit of using condensed milk tell me they 
 prefer it for ordinary use ; that they are sure of getting a pure, unadulterated 
 article, and that it is cheaper even at a high price than milk ordinarily sold 
 in cities, because of the shameful adulterations practiced by milkmen, and 
 the liability of the milk getting sour ; losses of this kind continually occur- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 199 
 
 ing more than make up the difference in price, so that condensed milk is the 
 cheaper of the two. Besides the convenience of always having sweet, pure, 
 milk in one's house, in small cans ready for use, is an important consideration 
 to the city consumer. 
 
 THE CONDENSING PROCESS 
 
 at the Elgin Works, is that under the patent of Gail Borden, and all his 
 plans and suggestions are here strictly carried out. At this establishment the 
 very greatest attention is paid to having milk delivered pure, and in perfect 
 *-.^g^der. They have an admirable set of rules as a guide to each patron, and 
 he is required to follow out the instructions to the letter. As these rules 
 will be valuable to every dairyman who handles milk, I shall present them 
 here at length. 
 
 RULES FOR THE TREATMENT OP MILK. 
 
 I. The milk shall be drawn from the cow in the most cleanly manner and 
 strained through wire-cloth strainers. 
 
 II. The milk must be thoroughly cooled immediately after it is drawn from 
 the cow, by placing the can in which it is contained in a tub or vat of cold 
 water, deep enough to come up to the hight of the milk in the can, containing 
 at least three times as much water as the milk to be cooled ; the milk to be 
 occasionally stirred until the animal heat is expelled as below. 
 
 III. In summer or in spring and fall, when the weather is warm, the bath 
 shall be spring water not over fifty-two degrees temperature (a day or a night 
 after a heavy rain excepted), constantly running or pouring in at the bottom 
 necessary to reduce the tempei-ature of the milk within forty-five minutes, to 
 below fifty-eight degrees ; and if night's milk, to remain in such bath until 
 the time of bringing it to the factory, to below fifty-five degrees. The 
 morning's milk not to exceed sixty degrees when brought to the factory. 
 
 IV. In winter or in freezing weather, the bath shall be kept at the coolest 
 point (it need not be running spring water) by the addition of ice or snow 
 sufiicient to reduce the temperature of night's milk speedily below fifty 
 degrees. 
 
 V. In spring and fall weather a medium course will be pursued, so that 
 night's milk shall be cooled within an hour below fifty degrees, and morning's 
 milk below fifty-five degrees. 
 
 VI. The bath and supply of water shall be so arranged as to let the water 
 flow over the top to carry off the warm water. The can in which the milk 
 is cooled shall be placed in the water immediately after the milking, and shall 
 remain therein until the process of cooling shall be finished. 
 
 VII. The night's and morning's milk shall be separately cooled before 
 mixing. 
 
 VIII. No milk shall be kept over to deliver at a subsequent time. 
 
 IX. The milk shall be delivered on the platform at the factory in Elgin 
 every day except Sunday, 
 
200 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 X. Suitable cans of proper dimensions to transport the milk from the 
 dairy to the milk works shall be furnished by the seller and the cans shall be 
 brought full. 
 
 XI. The Company shall clean and steam the cans at the factory free of 
 charge, but customers shall keep the outside clean. The pails and strainers 
 employed shall be by the seller thoroughly cleaned, scalded in boiling water, 
 and dried morning and night. 
 
 XII. Immediately before the milk is placed in the cans they shall be thor- 
 oughly rinsed with clean, cold water, and great care shall be taken to keep 
 the cans and milk free from dirt or impurities of any kind. When the cans 
 are not in use they shall be turned down on a rack with the tops off. 
 
 XIII. All the " strippings," as well as the first part of the milk, shall be 
 brought. No milk will be received from a cow which has not calved at least 
 twelve days, unless by consent of Superintendent or Agent, who may deter- 
 mine its fitness sooner by a sample of the milk. 
 
 XIV. The cows are not to be fed on turnips or other food which would 
 impart a disagreeable flavor to the milk, nor upon any food which will not 
 produce milk of standard richness. 
 
 XV. It is further understood and agreed by the parties hereto, that if the 
 Superintendent or Agent of the Company shall have good reason to suspect, 
 either from evidence furnished or from the state of the milk itself, that water 
 has been added, or that it has not been cooled as provided, or that it has 
 been injured by carelessness, he shall have a right to refuse to receive such 
 milk, or any further quantity of milk from the person so violating these 
 directions and stipulations. The outlines of 
 
 THE CONDENSING PEOCESS 
 
 are briefly as follows : Each man's milk is examined as it is received, and if 
 all right it is strained and passes to the receiving vat. From this it is con- 
 ducted off, passing through another strainer into the heating cans, each 
 holding about twenty gallons. These cans set in hot water, and the milk 
 is held here until it reaches a temperature of 90°. It then goes through 
 another strainer and into a large wooden vat, at the bottom of which is a 
 coil of copper pipe, through which steam passes, and here it is heated up to 
 near the boiling point. Then the best quality of white granulated sugar is 
 added in the proportion of one and a-quarter pounds of sugar to the gallon 
 of milk, when it is drawn into vacuum pan having a capacity of receiving 
 three thousand quarts at a time. This pan is a copper cylinder with a coil of 
 copper pipe inside and jacket underside also for steam. The milk remains in 
 the vacuum pan subjected to steam for about three hours, losing about seven- 
 ty-five per cent, of its water, when it is drawn off into cans holding forty 
 quarts each. The cans are then set in a large vat containing cold water, 
 the water being of a hight equal to the milk in the cans, where it is stirred 
 until the temperature of the condensed milk is reduced to a little below 70°. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 201 
 
 It is then emptied into large drawing cans with faucets, and from them drawn 
 into small cans holding a pound each, immediately soldered to exclude the 
 air, and when properly labeled is ready for the market. There are 
 
 TWO KINDS OF CONDENSED MILK, 
 
 that containing sugar as above described, and simply the plain milk without 
 the addition of the sugar. The wholesale price received at this factory for 
 their milk is $3.50 for a dozen cans, or a trifle over twenty-nine cents per 
 pound. It will be seen that four pounds of fresh milk as drawn from the 
 cow, or about two quarts by measm-e, when condensed by taking out seventy- 
 five per cent, of water, will make one pound condensed milk, and therefore a 
 little more than fourteen and a-half cents per quart is realized for it. I am 
 not prepared to give the expense of manufacturing, but if four and a-half 
 cents per quart be taken to cover all expenses and this is doubtless too large 
 an estimate — we have the milk worth ten cents per quart to the producer. 
 
 THE CONDENSED MILK 
 
 is about the consistency of thick sirup, has a pleasant taste, and when used 
 for tea or coffee is not to be distinguished from pure, fresh country milk. 
 From what I saw of this establishment, and from a test of its products, I was 
 convinced of its great benefits to all parties concerned, and could not but 
 wish that more establishments of the kind were in operation throughout the 
 country. The factory at Elgin is managed by a company, and it was paying 
 farmers in the winter nineteen cents per gallon for milk. 
 
 PEOYOSt's CONDENSING FACTORY. 
 
 In 1865 I was at the Provost Condensing Works, in Middletown, Orange 
 Co., N". Y. The establishment was then under the management of Dr. C. E. 
 Crane, a very intelligent gentleman, who went over the premises with me 
 and explained the various apparatuses for manipulating the milk. The 
 process of evaporation here is different from that of Borden's, and was 
 claimed to take less heat. We give briefly a description of the process. 
 Milk is reduced and prepared in two forms at the factory. That which is 
 run off without the addition of sugar is called condensed milk, and when 
 sugar is used, concentrated milk. 
 
 During the sunimer about three thousand six hundred quarts per day are 
 received at the factory. The milk is weighed and tested when received, and 
 emptied into long pails holding twenty quarts, similar to the pails used at the 
 butter factories for cooling the milk. About eighteen quarts are put in each 
 pail, and after the milk has been cooled to 60° in order to divest it of animal 
 heat and expel the ammoniacal gas, the pails are immediately plunged into a 
 vat of water heated to a temperature of 185° to 190°. Refined loaf sugar is 
 added at this stage at the rate of four pounds for each pail or can. It is kept 
 in the vat of heated water about thirty minutes, when it is poured into an 
 immense pan having fifty corrugations which sets over water and upon a 
 
202 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 furnace in the adjoining room. Here are arranged two large fans, directly 
 over the milk, which are kept in motion by machinery, the temperature 
 of the milk while evaporation is going on being 160°. The fans carry off 
 the water, forcing it through ventilators, out of the building, as fast as it is 
 formed into vapor. It takes about seven hours to condense the milk, seventy- 
 five per cent, of its bulk in water being driven off. The faucets at each end 
 of the pan are then opened and the condensed fluid passes through fine wire 
 strainers or sieves into large cans. These cans, when filled are rolled away 
 
 OP£N rARD 
 33FT. 
 
 CAKHHTER mop. 
 
 EVAPORAT/NGROOM 
 
 CtJ/BEKSlHe Pi,NS 
 
 L 
 
 CUOLER 6X12 FT. 
 
 Ground Plan or Provost's Condensed Milk Factory. 
 
 to the tables where their contents are drawn off into small tin cans holding a 
 pound each, and are immediately sealed up. The milk when condensed has 
 the consistency of thick molasses, and is then sold at from twenty-five to 
 forty cents per pound, according to the price of milk in the New York 
 markets. The cans are packed in barrels with saw-dust, and are thus shipped 
 to the markets — the milk being used in the navy and in hospitals, and in 
 warm climates. 
 
 Dr. CRAisrE informed me that milk thus prepared will keep good for years 
 without the least trouble He opened cans in my presence that contained 
 the preparation a year old, and I found it of good flavor and apparently 
 not injured by age. It had a rich, creamy taste, rather sweet, with a flavor 
 of boiled milk, but by no means unpleasant. The price paid for milk at the 
 factory during the summer had ranged from four to five and a-half cents 
 23er quart. In winter the price paid was seven and a-half cents per quart. 
 
 EXPORTS FKOM NEW YORK. 
 
 The exports of condensed milk from New York alone in 1869 amounted 
 to $79,652, of which England took $21,770; Austria $9,494 ; the States of 
 Columbia $9,176 ; China, $8,166 ; Brazil $3,087, and Cuba $3,093. 
 
 USE AND MANAGEMENT OF MILK AS A DIET FOR INFANTS AND CHILDREN. 
 
 The following paper by Dr. Alfred Wiltshire, M.R.C.P., of London, 
 Physician to the British Lying-in Hospital, and late Medical Inspector to 
 H. M. Privy Council, is a brief but valuable treatise upon this important 
 subject : 
 
 " It may with truth be said that the value of milk as a food for infants and 
 young children is incalculable. Not only is it the pabulum which thrifty nature 
 provides for the nourishment of the young of the highest order of animals, the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 203 
 
 mammalia, among which man is the chief, but it is the single article of diet 
 upon which alone life can be sustained, and the body kept in perfect health 
 and vigor. Most people know something of this, yet seldom think how 
 variable a fluid milk may be or become according to the source whence it is 
 derived or its subsequent treatment. Few, among the millions who daily use 
 milk in their ordinary diet, reflect that the milk of each species of animal 
 possesses peculiar and distinctive characters specially fitting it for the nourish- 
 ment of the young of the same species, and fewer still that the milk of 
 different individuals of a given species varies considerably ; nay, more, that 
 the milk of the same individual may vary materially at different hours of the 
 day, or be changed by circumstances under which it is secreted. Thus, the 
 state of health, the kind of food, passion or emotion may greatly modify the 
 constitution of the fluid for better or worse, though the changes thus induced 
 be, especially in the case of passion or emotion, so subtle as to elude detection 
 by ordinary methods of examination, and only betray themselves by their 
 effects when consumed as food. It is obvious then that when we speak of 
 milk we speak of a fluid which may differ essentially, as it is obtained from 
 the cow, the goat, the ass or the mare, not to speak of the alterations in its 
 composition which may be induced in individuals by the conditions just 
 mentioned. 
 
 "Without dealing with the subtle changes of which milk is capable, and to 
 which woman's milk is more liable than that of any other animal, owing to 
 her great susceptibility to emotion, or indeed without considering human 
 milk at all, except by reference to it as a standard, I desire to say a few 
 words upon the use and management of cows', goats' and asses' milk as food 
 for infants and children, but chiefly of cows' milk, that being practically the 
 most readily obtainable, if not the best. The foregoing remarks are made with 
 the view of impressing upon the non-professional reader, the fact that there 
 are important differences in the chemical and physical constitution of milks, 
 and that the milk of any animal may not be indifferently taken, in the belief 
 that being milk it is all one, whether it be yielded by a cow or a goat, an ass 
 or mare. As regards results, scarcely any of us live entirely without milk ; 
 either as a luxury or as a necessary of life, nearly all partake of it. But 
 there is a great host of little ones, to whom indeed it is a necessary of life, 
 to whom it is one of the very first conditions of existence, to whom it is 
 meat and drink. As the constitutional vigor and health of adults are largely 
 influenced by the conditions of their existence as children, it becomes import- 
 ant that children, who in their turn become men and women, should be reared 
 in the healthiest manner possible, so as to secure for them that vigor which, 
 in after life, is so essential to their own well-being and that of the community 
 of which they are members. We say advisedly that this cannot be done, 
 that is, good sound health cannot be secured without milk — good milk. And 
 this valuable article should be properly used if we would get from it all the 
 benefits it undoubtedly will afford if rightly used and treated. It is upon 
 
204 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 this part of the subject I would particularly dwell : — the proper use and 
 management of milk as a diet for infants and children. 
 
 "It is hoped that it will not be requisite to insist upon scrupulous cleanliness 
 in the treatment of milk. Taint of any kind, and acidity, should be looked 
 upon as destroyers of its good properties. Milk, fresh, sweet and pure, is a 
 most wholesome diet ; putrefying, it is harmful. 
 
 " Before going further, it will, perhaps, be well very briefly to consider the 
 chief characteristics of woman's milk, and to compare them with cow's milk. 
 This will enable us to see the difference between the two ; and we shall then 
 be in a position to say how cow's milk may be made more nearly to resemble 
 human milk, and thus fitter for the consumption of children. Clearly this is 
 a matter of some importance. The chief thing to be borne in mind about 
 cow's milk is, that it is much richer in cheesy matter than mother's milk. 
 The value of this knowledge will be shown presently. It is also somewhat 
 richer in butter, and decidedly richer in salts. On the other hand, mother's 
 milk is richer in sugar. It may be said with some truth, that cow's milk is 
 " stronger " than mother's milk, for one pint of the former will contain more 
 solid matter than a like quantity of the latter. To bring cow's milk to a 
 condition resembling mother's milk, as regards the cheesy element, it is 
 necessary to dilute it with water (I much prefer lime water as a rule) in the 
 proportion of a third or a fourth of water, to two-thirds or three-fourths of 
 milk. But then the resulting mixture will not be rich enough in sugar and 
 fat, and to remedy this a little sugar of milk (which is now easily procurable) 
 and some cream should be added. Lump sugar should be very sparingly 
 used in the food of children ; it is much abused in this respect. Better not 
 use sugar at all than use too much. Sugar of milk should only be used to 
 the extent of slightly sweetening the prepared milk. To repeat, two-thirds 
 or three-fourths pure, new cow's milk mixed with a third or fourth of water 
 (the proportion may be varied according to the age, requirements or peculiari- 
 ties of the child ; very young children, for instance, often thriving best on half 
 and half), to every half pint of which two teaspoonsful to a tablespoonful of 
 fresh cream and a little sugar of milk are added, will form a fluid resembling, 
 as nearly as may be, mother's milk. If cream cannot be procured, a few 
 drops of sweet olive oil Avill be a good substitute. I make mention of this, 
 as I consider fat to be of the highest importance to children. Now, having 
 brought cow's milk into a condition as nearly as possible resembling mother's 
 milk as regards proportioii of ingredients, we may go a step further and 
 endeavor to improve it as regards the quality of one of its principal ingre- 
 dients, viz., the curd or cheesy element. The curd of cow's milk is much 
 denser and therefore far less digestible than that of mother's milk. This is 
 a fact of great practical importance. How can it best be obviated ? Before 
 stating this I would refer, en passant, to a matter upon which much ignorance 
 prevails. It is commonly believed that if a child brings up curdled milk it is 
 a sign that it does not agree with it. The truth is, that it would not agree 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 205 
 
 if it did not curdle after its reception into the stomach, for curdling by the 
 gastric juice (an acid fluid secreted by the stomach, and endowed with pecu- 
 liar properties) is one of the first and most important acts of digestion. The 
 vomiting may be wrong, but the curdling is not, for as just stated, the first 
 act in the digestion of milk is the coagulation of its curd. The curd formed 
 from mother's milk is very light and delicate ; it is feathery, or like snow 
 flakes, and thus permits of easier digestion. If a child fed upon cow's milk 
 vomits lumps of curd, there must be something wrong, but the bringing up 
 of a little curdled milk need not generally be taken as indicative of mischief. 
 How then can we bring the dense curd of cow's milk into the flocculent 
 condition observed in mother's milk ? My own observation and experience 
 lead me to believe that this can best be done by diluting the milk with lime- 
 water. Usually I advise the substitution of lime-water for the third or fourth 
 part of water alluded to, and I have witnessed the best results ensue upon 
 the adoption of this plan. If plain water be not wholly replaced by lime- 
 , water, I always direct that a portion of it shall be. I believe I have the 
 strongest grounds for this recommendation. In the first place, as already 
 stated, lime-water renders the curd of cow's milk lighter and more digestible ; 
 secondly, it helps to neutralize acidity, to which hand-fed children are espe- 
 cialy exposed ; thirdly, it helps children to form teeth, often backward and 
 fourthly, it is an excellent remedy against that bane of childhood, rickets, in 
 which too conimon disease there is, as is well known, a deficiency of lime in 
 the bony tissues, owing to defective assimilation of lime salts, the supply of 
 which, moreover, is frequently inadequate. Lime-water, then, is a valuable 
 addition to the milk diet of children, on several grounds. The addition of a 
 small quantity of well prepared baked or boiled flour ; Chapman's entire 
 wheat flour ; Liebig's food, or Robb's biscuit, may also tend to keep the curd 
 from clotting into large, hard masses, and in this way such articles may prove 
 useful ; but I am persuaded, that as a rule, nothing but milk diluted with 
 water, or lime-water, as directed, should be given to infants for the first six 
 months after their existence. 
 
 " There is a very strong reason why starchy matters, such as arrowroot, 
 etc., which can scarcely be called food, should not be given in eaiiy infancy. 
 It is this : for about the first three months of life, infants do not secrete 
 saliva, and unless starchy matters are mixed with saliva, they cannot contrib- 
 ute any nourishment to the body ; on the contrary they become active sources 
 of acidity. Farinaceous foods are, as a rule, more or less injurious on this 
 account, and milk is often unjustly stigmatized as bad, owing to the admix- 
 ture with it of some kind of starchy material, which is apt to excite intestinal 
 disturbance in young children. Milk should not be blamed when used under 
 such conditions ; to try it fairly it should be used as already pointed out. 
 Some children have an aversion to milk, and for them various diets may be 
 devised. It is not ray intention to speak of such diets here ; but I would 
 remark that children who take milk reluctantly, or with indifierence, may be 
 
206 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 induced to take it more kindly by the addition of a very little pure cocoa or 
 chocolate. Much of the trash sold as cocoa consists of a compound contain- 
 ing starch, etc., and should accordingly be carefully avoided. Van Houten's 
 Schweitzer's or Cadbuey's, are excellent. Or a little flavoring by vanilla, 
 cinnamon, carraways, or a very fcAV drops of brandy or rum, will occasionally 
 render milk extremely palatable to children. All these require to be carefully 
 and sparingly used, especially the latter. 
 
 A word or two further may be said upon the treatment of milk. It 
 should never be boiled ; this renders it less digestible; indeed, it should not 
 be more than slightly warmed, and ought never to be kept long in that con- 
 dition, as fermentation is favored by warmth. It should never be exposed to 
 objectional efiluvia or odors. The feeding-bottles and appurtenances, and all 
 receptacles for milk, should be kept scrupulously clean ; the slightest acidity 
 from such sources tainting the whole fluid, and thus rendering it hurtful. It 
 need hardly be said that pure milk, the produce of healthy animals, should 
 alone be used. The milk of asses, when procurable, is excellent. Goat's 
 milk is useful, but is perhaps a little strong in curd, and may require to be 
 treated accordingly. 
 
 THE USE OF SKIMMED MILK AS AN EXCLUSIVB DIET IK DISEASE. 
 
 In regard to the value of milk as a curative agent in disease, the Medical 
 Times, Philadelpliia, has the following interesting statement from Dr. S. W. 
 Mitchell. He says :— " My design in this and the brief papers with which I 
 hope to follow it, is to give my own experience in the use of skimmed milk as an 
 alterative diet in certain cases of disease. After reading Carel's paper some 
 years ago, I began to employ this very useful method of treatment, and since 
 then have found repeated reason to congratulate myself upon the success 
 which, in my hands, it has attained whenever the cases for its use were 
 selected with discretion. In dealing with the subject I shall first make some 
 general remarks upon the mode of using milk and upon the effects observed 
 in nearly all cases. Next, I shall relate histories of its employment in gastric 
 disorders, in diarrhea, in malarious and renal dropsies, and finally in nervous 
 maladies. I hope to conclude with a study of the influence of the milk cure 
 upon the secretions and excretions. In following this path I shall in some 
 cases differ from Dr. Carel ; but in general my views will be found to corre- 
 spond with those held by this physician. The milk is to be used as free as 
 possible from cream ; and if, as is generally the case in our cities, there is an 
 abundance of ice to be had, I prefer to let the milk stand in a well-chilled 
 refrigerator for twenty-four hours. It should then be carefully skimmed, 
 after which it is fit for use. As Carel remarks, the quality of the milk goes 
 for something, and perhaps too the surroundings, since I have found persons 
 who could not bear the treatment in a city, while in the country they throve 
 under it admirably. As to temperature, it may be given warm, not hot or 
 cold, as suits the taste. In rare cases, where at first it caused nausea, I have 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 207 
 
 had to use it with more or less lime-water during the first few days. In 
 other instances the repugnance to its taste is a difficulty, and this may be 
 overcome by faintly flavoring it with a few drops of coffee or with caramel. 
 Other patients prefer to add to it a little salt ; but as a rule I desire to give 
 the milk alone as soon as possible. 
 
 " Quantity. — The patient takes, to begin with, one or two tablespoonsful 
 on rising, and every two hours during the day. When I followed Caeel's 
 rule of giving at once half-a-tumbler to a tumblerful (two to six ounces) four 
 times daily, I found that few patients would bear it without nausea and early 
 disgust. I increase each dose by a tablespoonful every day — say three the 
 second day and four the third day. Thus, if the patient begins at eight A.M. 
 he takes up to ten P.M. eight doses, that is to say about sixteen ounces. Now, 
 this is the lower limit ; nor have I been able in the cases of females or delicate 
 men to give it more largely at first. Indeed, few women of sickly or seden- 
 tary habits are able to exceed at any time a pint and a-half daily. After the 
 fourth day it is better to separate the doses as you increase their amount, 
 until they are taken at four equal intervals daily, and the maximum quantity 
 is attained. This varies greatly. I had one patient, a railroad contractor, 
 who, living an out-door life of the most active kind, took daily for more than 
 a year fourteen tumblers of skimmed milk, and this alone. Two quarts a day 
 is the limit with most of my patients. I suspect, from Caeel's account, the 
 Russian patients must have more hardy stomachs. 
 
 " Where people are well enough to live afoot I have had little difficulty in 
 the use of milk ; but in very feeble persons — and I have often given to such 
 — I have found it absolutely necessary to use with it for a few days, brandy 
 or whisky, and even beef soup, all of which I expect to abandon as soon as 
 the patient can take milk enough to sustain his strength. It is needless to 
 say that for a patient to take steadily a diet of skimmed milk alone, requires 
 the utmost fortitude and all the moral aid which the physician can give. 
 Carel thinks the first week the most difficult one, and this is usually the case; 
 but sometimes the whole period of milk use is one long struggle, even after 
 we begin to allow a partial use of other diet. It is not in these cases hunger, 
 but simply the craving for other food which tortures the patients. Most of 
 them avoid the sight of food in order to control their desires, and in one case 
 I was much amused by a gentleman who said to me in a guilty tone, ' Indeed 
 Doctor, but I could not help it ; I stole an egg this morning.' 
 
 " Dr. Carel begins to alter the diet of milk after two or three weeks. 
 I prefer to reach the latter limit before giving other food, but this, after all, is 
 a matter for separate decision in individual cases. My own rule, founded on 
 considerable experience, is this: Dating from the time when the patient 
 begins to take the milk alone, I wish three weeks to elapse before anything 
 be used save milk. After the first week of the period I direct that the milk 
 be taken in just as large amount as the person desires, but not allowing it to 
 fall helow a limit lohich for tne is determined in each case hy his ceasing to 
 
208 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 lose weight. Twenty-one days of absolute milk diet having passed, with such 
 exception as I shall presently mention, I now give a thin slice of stale white 
 bread thrice a day. After another week I allow rice once a day — about two 
 tablespoonsful — or a little arrowroot, or both, as circumstances may dictate. 
 At the fifth week I give a chop once a day, and then in a day or two another 
 at breakfast ; and after the sixth -week I expect to return gradually to a diet 
 which should still consist largely of milk for some months. In children I 
 sometimes use raw in place of cooked meat for a time, but grown people will 
 rarely take it, although very often they are willing to take raw soup (Liebig's.) 
 
 THE SYMPTOMS DEVELOPED 
 
 under the use of milk are very interesting, and not all of them are told by 
 Cakel. In no case have I seen any one gain weight duriug the first few days ; 
 but where the treatment succeeds, the patient soon ceases to lose, and then 
 slowly gains in weight. This is usually the case in severe gastric and intes- 
 tinal cases ; but in some cases the loss of weight continues even after they 
 are taking an amount of milk usually sufiicient to sustain the body in an 
 equilibrium. This is remarkably the case in very fat persons, who, as every 
 one knows, are quite commonly small eaters. Taking three cases of dyspepsia 
 at random (all women) I find this record : The first lost in two weeks fourteen 
 pounds of a weight of one hundred and thirty-one ; the second lost eighteen 
 pounds of a weight of one hundred and twenty ; and the third eleven pounds 
 of a weight of one hundred and seventeen, her total weight at the start. In 
 another case where the quantity of milk taken was two quarts daily, and the 
 exercise small, the man lost weight steadily up to the time that I began to 
 give bread, when the gain was immediate and speedy (case diarrhea.) Mrs. 
 S., aged forty-seven, weight one hundred and ninety-four pounds, inactive,- 
 sallow, feeble, dyspeptic, and a very small eater, lost in four weeks thirty 
 pounds, with general gain in strength and vigor. 
 
 THE STATE OF THE SKIN 
 
 has seemed to improve in all cases of chronic, gastric, or intestinal disease, but 
 in others there has been no change. The urine, in a few cases is somewhat 
 annoying during the first week, the patient having frequent calls ; but com- 
 monly no such complaint is made, although in certain dropsies I have found 
 the milk to act strictly as a diuretic. The changes in the urine we shall 
 have occasion to study in future. 
 
 " The tongue is apt to become furred, and be white and rough two or 
 three weeks, — in some cases so long as milk is taken ; but so far is this from 
 representing a disturbed state of stomach, that the dyspeptic after a few days 
 usually finds himself in the enjoyment of an amount of digestive comfort 
 long a stranger to his viscera. The stools begin to show the milk tint— a 
 yellowish or salmon hue — after forty-eight hours, and when the milk disagrees 
 they are apt to be loose, while usually they are intensely tough and constipa- 
 ted. This feature of the use of skimmed milk is at times most obstinate and 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 209 
 
 annoying. After some weeks of creamless milk, I have often resorted, in 
 such cases, to unskimmed milk, and with good effect ; but it is quite clear 
 that even this, in adults, may constipate, as it never does in the child. Caeel 
 says that a little coffee in the morning is often sufficient to relieve the bowels ; 
 and where a small cup of pure coffee can be used, this is true. I give it 
 without sugar. Later in the treatment, fruit, fresh or stewed, may be used ; 
 but as a rule, I find that a little Saratoga water on rising, and a half grain of 
 aloes, with a grain of ginger at night, will answer ; or if these do not, then 
 an enema is required. In some cases, this symptom is simj)ly unconquerable 
 by any constant treatment, and twice it has forced me to abandon the milk. 
 In another case — a lady who undertook the milk cure unassisted — I was sent 
 for on account of violent rectal and sciatic pain which followed every effort 
 at defecation. She said she had a daily stool, which was true, but the amount 
 passed was trifling, and her rectum was packed, with feces so tough as utterly 
 to defy injections, until I had mechanically broken up the mass. The pulse 
 is usually quickened, until the milk diet is large enough to sustain the weight 
 unchanged, when it falls again. In certain cases of hypertrophied left ventri- 
 cle with palpitation of the heart, the immediate effect is to lower the pulse 
 and quiet the heart. The nervous system is not strikingly affected by milk. 
 I have once only, in a very stout and hysterical lady, seen vertigo and faint- 
 ness follow its use, and forbid its continuance ; but as a rule, it is in such 
 persons soothing alone. Caeel makes no mention of one symptom of which 
 many have spoken to me : this is an intense sleepiness. It is common, but 
 not universal, and soon passes away. 
 
 " In this brief sketch I have told plainly my own experience, and this I 
 shall illustrate by cases— only some few of which I shall relate in detail. In 
 no diseases has the value of milk-treatment been more clear than in certain 
 instances of stomachal disorders. It is needless to add that I have quoted 
 here only such instances as had proved rebellious to all ordinary methods. 
 Y. C, aged fourteen, a frail and pallid lad, employed as errand boy in a sugar 
 refinery, where he had contracted the habit of continually eating sugar. 
 After some weeks he began to have a sick stomach, and at length incessant 
 vomiting, for which a variety of treatment was employed, without relief 
 Finally it was found that he was able to keep .down small quantities of milk 
 diluted with equal parts' of lime-water. The amounts taken were still too 
 small to sustain life, and he wasted rapidly. At this time he fell under my 
 care, and was at once put upon an exclusive diet of skimmed milk, taking two 
 tablespoonsful every two hours. The vomiting ceased at once, and as the 
 milk was increased in amount and the interval lengthened, he began in a 
 week to gain weight. In two weeks he was doing well on a quart a day, 
 and on the twenty-first day he began to take bread. At the fourth week a 
 chop was added, and at the fifth week he went to the country. At this time 
 he was gaining weight and color. He felt none of the gastric distress after 
 the third day, but the sleepiness was well marked for two weeks. At the 
 14 
 
210 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 second week a slight return of emesis obliged him to lessen the dose for a 
 few days. In him, as in most young people, the constipation was readily 
 overcome by a rhubarb pill at bed time. 
 
 " Miss C, aged fifty-two. Has had for a year, attacks of violent pain, 
 which are referred to the pit of the stomach, or rarely lower. They had no 
 relation to her meals, but were easily brought on by fatigue. The natural 
 ending of these spells seemed to be in slight emesis, and for a long time the 
 very least vomiting gave instant relief, which however ceased to be the case 
 after a year, when the attacks had become as frequent as two to four a week. 
 The most careful research discovered no gall stones in the stools, and only 
 once was there bile in the urine. The matter vomited was rarely the food, 
 but only thin mucus, not acid, and containing no sarcinae or other substance 
 which cast any light on the case. Alkalies, tonics — for she was very pale 
 and feeble — stimulants, acids, pepsin, arsenic, and bismuth, were used in vain. 
 Hypodermic injections, and opiates internally, alike failed. In this therapeu- 
 tic despair — even change of air having produced no good result — I advised 
 the use of milk treatment ; and as her case illustrates alike the value and the 
 difficulties of this plan of diet, I conceive it to be very instructive. At this 
 time her attacks were of almost daily occurence. The milk was given 
 cautiously — a tablespoonful eyery two hours — for two days, when it was 
 doubled. On the fourth day she took four tablespoonsful at each dose, and 
 at the same intervals, but was manifestly not losing weight, although weak. 
 A little whisky added thrice a day bridged over this trouble, and was aban- 
 doned on the seventh day. Up to this time she had no attack, nor had she 
 any up to the beginning of the fourth week, when the milk was given up. 
 The reason for this was twofold. Her disgust at the diet was unconquerable ; 
 nor was I able by slight changes to secure good continued results. More 
 complete alteration of diet brought back the attacks. I yet believe that these 
 difficulties might have been overcome, but in her the milk caused a constipa- 
 tion so invincible that not even the most powerful purgatives or enemas 
 were of any avail. Needless to say that, from the promise of so much good 
 from milk, no means were left unused to enable her to take it, but all alike 
 failed us, and I was forced in this case to confess myself beaten. Mechanical 
 means were finally needed every few days to break up the tough rectal 
 accumulations, and so the milk was given up. The case was probably gas- 
 trodynia. 
 
 " Somewhat like it in certain respects, was the history of a man who was 
 sent to me from Elkton, Maryland, by my friend Dr. Ellis. About nine 
 months before I saw him he began to have increasingly severe attacks of 
 pain, which came pn an hour or two after meals, and lasted nearly up to the 
 next meal. The pain was sharp and was referred to the epigastric region and 
 to the left side below the ribs. There was a good deal of wind, occasional 
 acid stomach, and no tenderness anywhere ; bowels regular, urine high-colored, 
 but free from albumen and depositing urates abundantly. He had been 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 211 
 
 skillfully treated with a variety of drugs, but with no relief. On explaining 
 to him the milk-diet, he professed himself able to carry it out. About two 
 months later he returned to show himself, when I learned that he had lived 
 on milk alone during the whole of this time, with immediate, enduring and 
 absolute relief from all his pains. He was then directed how to return to 
 his usual diet. Several months afterwards I learned that he was still living 
 partly on milk, and. was well and vigorous. 
 
 "Mrs. B., widow, aged thirty-three, had for yet^rs suffered from constant 
 acid dysjsepsia, for which she had been treated by several physicians, both at 
 home and abroad. Her only relief consisted in the most careful choice of a 
 minimum amount of food, and in the constant use of bismuth. She weighed 
 one hundred and eighteen pounds and was sallow and disfigured by an ecze- 
 matous eruption. During the first day of the milk cure she only took one 
 tablespoonful every two hours, and after this it Avas increased as I have 
 described. In a week she was taking a little under a quart daily, and her 
 weight was down to one hundred and fourteen pounds. A little whisky was 
 now added, and left off at the fifteenth day, when she was taking over two 
 quarts of milk. The weight continued nearly up to the end of the third 
 week, when she declared that even the perfect ease obtained as eai'ly as the 
 third day of the treatment was scarcely a compensation for the horrors of this 
 exclusive diet. A little persuasion, however, enabled me to continue its use 
 another week, when I began to give stale bread, and in a few days later 
 venison. Her gain in weight from this time was strangely rapid, and five 
 weeks and a-half after we began, the milk brought her up to one hundred and 
 twenty-nine pounds, with a perfectly clear and spotless skin. The aloes pill 
 and enema answered throughout to control her bowels. It is now nearly a 
 year since this time, but despite her final abandonment of milk she retains 
 alike her good looks and comfort in digestion, having had in this time only 
 one relapse which yielded to a brief return to the diet. I was very much 
 struck in another case, with the same remarkable improvement in the clear- 
 ness and beauty of the skin which I have just mentioned. 
 
 " Miss L., a young lady aged twenty, of remarkable personal attractions, 
 was seized with a violent attack of inflammation of the ileo-cascal region, with 
 the common accompaniments of intense pain, swelling, tenderness and fecal 
 accumulation, with violent vomiting. After a week or ten days the bowels 
 were moved and the attack subsided. The experience of several such illnesses 
 finally taught me that the local use of ice over the diseased region, chloral 
 internally, and no purgatives for a week, gave the best and shortest curative 
 result ; but by this time the attacks recurred so easily and her general health 
 had so suffered as to make some permanent relief imperative. At this period 
 all the usual alteratives had failed to effect this end, and she was wasted, 
 thin, and excessively sallow, with dark stains beneath the eyes. During three 
 weeks only she took the milk, and I was then obliged by her urgency to add 
 a chop daily. The effect of this diet was both to me and to her friends 
 
212 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 astonishing, in the sudden gain of weight, and in the return of clear and 
 delicate skin tints. No less marked were the ease of digestion, previously 
 much impaired, and the total disappearance of the hardening about the 
 ascending colon. The bowels, somewhat to my surprise, were easily managed 
 by a little rlmbarb twice a day. In this case I did not hope for permanent 
 relief save by six months of milk treatment. So soon, however, as she felt 
 well I found it impossible to secure a continuance of its use, so that after 
 some months I was not surprised to see her in a new attack. The case has 
 value chiefly as showing that, with a tendency to a constipative disease, milk 
 may still be used, and is illustrative of the profound change which milk some- 
 times effects in the nutritive system. The above cases, selected for various 
 reasons, are merely representative of difficulties or successes, and it would be 
 quite possible for me to multiply either class. Suffice it to say that in old and 
 unmanageable cases of dyspepsia, and in neuralgic disorders related to the 
 gastro-intestinal viscera, the treatment by milk has been sometimes a reliable 
 resource when without it I must have been in therapeutic despair." 
 
ASSOCIATED DAIRimG-ITS RISE, PROCxRESS, &;C. 
 
 I HATE said that the dairy has become an important branch of national 
 industry, that it is rapidly spreading over new fields, and is engaging the 
 attention of farmers in the western, northwestern and middle States, wherever 
 the lands are adapted to grazing, and there are springs and streams of living 
 water. It is true, there are extensive plains at the south and southwest 
 where the business of dairying cannot be carried on, but broad belts and 
 isolated patches of land are scattered over our vast domain, well adapted 
 to grazing, and such lands, when taken in the aggregate, cover a wide extent 
 of territory. 
 
 There are two causes that have been operating the past few years to 
 stimulate the development of this branch of industry, and have brought it to 
 assume proportions that give it a distinctive feature of nationality. The first 
 is a lai'ge and increasing foreign demand for dairy products ; the second is the 
 American system of "Associated Dairies," now brought to such wonderful 
 perfection that the business can be readily introduced into new sections with 
 all the ease and certainty of success in producing the qualities attained in old 
 dairy districts. 
 
 The foreign demand for cheese, it is believed, will be permanent, and 
 exportations from year to year must largely increase, since the finest Ameri- 
 can grades are acknowledged to be equal to the best manufactured abroad. 
 This fact alone gives confidence to those about entering upon the business of 
 dairy farming — that it will be remunerative and enduring. 
 
 In addition, as the texture and flaA^or of cheese have been improved, a 
 large home demand has sprung up, which requires large quantities to meet its 
 wants. It is believed by many that the home demand, for years to come, 
 will more than keep pace with increased production ; and home sales for the 
 past few years would seem to prove that this view is not without foundation. 
 With a constantly increasing home trade and a reliable market abroad, no 
 branch of fai'ming to-day oflTers prospects of better or more permanent 
 remuneration than the dairy, 
 
 COMMElSrCEMElirT OF CHEESE DAIEYING AS A SPECIALTY ITS HISTORY, ETC. 
 
 The history of Ameincan Cheese Dairying has never been written, and 
 perhaps a brief glance at its rise and progress will not be out of place. 
 
214 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Cheese making began in Herkimer county, New York, more than sixty 
 years ago. For upwai-ds of twenty years its progress was slow, and the 
 business was deemed hazardous by the majority of farmers, who believed 
 that over-production was to be the result of those making a venture upon 
 this specialty. The fact, however, gradually became apparent that the cheese 
 makers were rapidly bettering their condition, and outstripping in wealth 
 those who were engaged in grain raising and a mixed husbandry. 
 
 About the year 1830 dairying became pretty general in the towns of Herki- 
 mer county north of the Mohawk, and some years later spread through the 
 southern district of the county, gradually extending into Oneida and adjoin- 
 ing counties. Up to this period and for several years later, little or no cheese 
 was shipped to Europe. It was not considered fit for market till fall or 
 winter. It was packed in rough casks and peddled in the home market at 
 from five to eight cents per pound. All the operations of the dairy were 
 rude and undeveloped ; the herds were milked in the open yard ; the curds 
 were worked in tubs and pressed in log presses. Everything was done by 
 guess, and there was no order, no system and no science in conducting opera- 
 tions. 
 
 In 1840 the value of the dairy products of NewTork — butter, cheese and 
 milk — was estimated by the United States census returns at $10,496,021, and 
 in all the States at $33,787,008. Some idea of the comparative increase will 
 be found when it is known that the value of the butter products of New York 
 alone, in 1865, was more than $60,000,000. From 1840 to 1850 cheese began 
 to be shipped abroad, the first shipments being inaugurated under the auspices 
 of Herkimer county dealers. 
 
 In 1848 — '49 the exports of American cheese to Great Britain were 
 15,386,836 pounds. Much of the cheese manufactured this year was of poor 
 quality, and British shippers claimed to have sustained heavy losses. There 
 was a more moderate demand the following year, and prices fell off a penny 
 a pound, varying from fair to strictly j^rime, from six to six and a-quarter 
 cents for Ohio, and six to six and three-quarters for New York State. The 
 exports in 1849 — '50 were 12,000,000 pounds, and continued to vary, without 
 important increase, for several years. From September, 1858, to September, 
 1859, the exports of cheese to Great Britain and Ireland were only two 
 thousand five hundred and ninety-nine tons, and in the following year, for 
 the same corresponding period, they were increased to seven thousand five 
 hundred and forty-two tons. 
 
 During the early part of the year 1860, Samuel Peket of New York 
 city, a native of Herkimer, and one of the earliest operators in the cheese 
 trade, endeavored to control the market, purchasing the great bulk of cheese 
 manufactured in the coimtry. He was reputed to be wealthy, and had for 
 years enjoyed the confidence of dairymen, and being liberal in his dealings he 
 was enabled to secure the dairies by contract, making his purchases at from 
 nine to ten cents per pound. Then commenced the exportation of American 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 215 
 
 cheese on a scale hitlierto unknown in the history of the trade ; and to him 
 belongs the credit of opening up a foreign market for this " class of goods." 
 The exportation of cheese from New York to Europe during 1860 was 
 23,252,000 pounds, which Avas increased on the following year to 40,041,000 
 pounds. 
 
 About this time (1860) the associated dairy system began to attract 
 attention. Several factories were in operation in Oneida county, and were 
 turning out a superior article of cheese. The system had been first inaugiirated 
 by Jesse Williams, a farmer living near Rome, in that county, and was 
 suggested from mere accidental circumstances. Mr. Williams was an expe- 
 rienced and skillful cheese-maker, and at a time when the bulk of American 
 cheese was poor. His dairy, therefore, enjoyed a high reputation, and was 
 eagerly sought for by dealers. In the spring of 1851 one of his sons having 
 married, entered upon farming on his own account, and the father contracted 
 the cheese made on both farms at seven cents per pound, a figure considerably 
 higher than was being offered for other dairies in that vicinity. When the 
 contract was made known to the son he expressed great doubt as to whether 
 he should be able to manufacture the character of cheese that would be 
 acceptable under the contract. He had never taken charge of the manufac- 
 ture of cheese while at home, and never having given the subject that close 
 attention which it necessarily requires, he felt that his success in coming up 
 to the required standard would be a mere matter of chance. His father 
 therefore proposed coming daily upon the farm and giving the cheese-making 
 a portion of his immediate supervision. But this would be very inconvenient, 
 and while devising the means to meet the difficulties and secure the benefits 
 of the contract, which was inore than ordinarily good, the idea was suggested 
 that the son should deliver the milk from his herd daily at the father's milk- 
 house. From this thought sprang the idea of uniting the milk from several 
 neighboring dairies and manufacturing it at one place. Buildings were 
 speedily erected and fitted up with apparatus, which, proving a success, thus 
 gave birth to the associated system of dairying now widely extended through- 
 out the Northern States. 
 
 The system of associated dairies, during the last eight years, has been 
 carried into the New England States and into the Canadas. It is largely 
 adopted in Ohio, and has obtained a foothold in Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, 
 Kansas, and other States. It is known abroad as the " American System of 
 Dairying," and its peculiarities are so well adapted to the genius of our people 
 as to give it a distinctive character of nationality. 
 
 PROGRESS OF THE EACTOKY SYSTEM IN" THE STATE OF KEW YORK, AND 
 CAPITAL INVESTED IN THE BUSINESS UP TO 1866. 
 
 The number of cheese factories in the State of New York at the com- 
 mencement of the season of 1866, was more than five hundred. The following 
 table will show the number of factories erected in the State each year from 
 1850 to 1866: 
 
216 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 These five hundred factories would probably average four hundred cows 
 each, making a total of two hundred thousand cows, which, at the low cash 
 value of $40 each, give an aggregate of $8,000,000. The lands employed in 
 associated dairying in New York in 1866 would not be less than a million of 
 acres, which, at an average of $40 an acre, would amount to 140,000,000. 
 
 
 NO. OF 
 
 FAC- 
 TORIES. 
 
 COST OF 
 
 BUILDINGS 
 
 AND 
 
 APPARATUS. 
 
 PERSONS EMPLOYED. 
 
 AVERAGE 
 NO. OF 
 COWS. 
 
 FOUNDS OF MILK 
 USED. 
 
 POUNDS OT 
 
 
 MAiES. 
 
 FEMALES. 
 
 CHEESE 
 MADE. 
 
 Allegany 
 
 Broome 
 
 Cattaraugus 
 
 6 
 1 
 3 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 78 
 
 32 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 80 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 35 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 $17,000 
 
 3,000 
 
 8,000 
 
 3,500 
 
 43,720 
 
 1,800 
 
 54,556 
 
 36,354 
 
 18,925 
 
 3,500 
 
 8,500 
 
 79,975 
 
 76,858 
 
 52,546 
 
 1,200 
 
 72,100 
 
 33,500 
 
 225 
 
 156,084 
 
 12,200 
 
 57,583 
 
 40,100 
 
 44,500 
 
 9,000 
 
 175 
 
 1,050 
 
 7,200 
 
 5,580 
 
 14,200 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 5 
 
 31 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 57 
 
 101 
 
 55 
 
 4 
 
 55 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 135 
 
 5 
 
 54 
 
 31 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 24 
 
 4 
 41 
 26 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 63 
 77 
 63 
 
 2 
 74 
 19 
 
 2 
 178 
 
 6 
 26 
 38 
 47 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 ""ii"" 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 1,395 
 
 500 
 
 1,474 
 
 270 
 
 3,003 
 
 107 
 
 6,505 
 
 5,000 
 
 2,248 
 
 1,000 
 
 800 
 
 11,499 
 
 14,088 
 
 12,084 
 
 68 
 
 11,635 
 
 3,250 
 
 36 
 
 27,146 
 
 825 
 
 5,837 
 
 6,815 
 
 7,055 
 
 1,375 
 
 31 
 
 235 
 
 1,550 
 
 450 
 
 2,245 
 
 1,006,445 
 643,510 
 192,730 
 837,550 
 
 6,423,689 
 
 764,850 
 
 17,917,494 
 
 13,714,985 
 
 4,128,380 
 
 2,648,657 
 
 104,374 
 74,000 
 
 Cayuga 
 
 Chautauqua 
 
 Chemung 
 
 Chenango 
 
 Cortland 
 
 Erie 
 
 82,216 
 
 625,382 
 
 25,075 
 
 1,879,368 
 
 1,406,157 
 
 435,774 
 
 264,865 
 
 Essex 
 
 Fulton 
 
 Herkimer 
 
 JeflFerson 
 
 Lewis 
 
 32,157,583 
 32,618,713 
 33,531,746 
 
 ""'33,037,456' 
 
 5,747,902 
 
 3,092,268 
 3,357,546 
 3,171,721 
 
 Livingston 
 
 Madison 
 
 Monlgomery . .. 
 
 Niagara 
 
 Oneida 
 
 Onondaga 
 
 Orange 
 
 Oswego , . 
 
 Otsego 
 
 19,900 
 
 3,420,057 
 
 474,622 
 
 9 606 
 
 70,414,328 
 
 2,631,304 
 
 9,962,949 
 
 13,450,857 
 
 15.455,437 
 
 2,348,322 
 
 8,107,018 
 1,272,633 
 724,854 
 1,386,005 
 1,559,591 
 
 St. Lawrence. .. 
 
 322,615 
 
 10,372 
 
 4,500 
 
 340,260 
 46,229 
 
 446,011 
 
 
 
 Tompkins 
 
 Washington 
 
 Wyoming 
 
 3,237,512 
 
 461,696 
 
 4,343,153 
 
 Total 
 
 425 
 
 $862,931 
 
 705 
 
 781 
 
 128,526 
 
 307,677,242 
 
 32,663,014 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 217 
 
 We give the preceding tahle, collected from official sources, showing the 
 amount of capital invested in factory buildings, the number of hands 
 employed at the factories, average number of cows delivering milk, pounds 
 of milk, and pounds of cheese made during the season of 1864, at four 
 hundred and twenty-five factories. The summary is made by counties. 
 
 From the foregoing statistics it would not be practicable to deduce general 
 results to show the relative products and profits of manufacturing in the 
 several counties, since some of the factories were in operation only part of 
 the season. A better estimate can be made from the following statistics, 
 gathered from the New York State census returns, showing the operations 
 of one hundred and thirty-three factories selected from the whole number, 
 and working through the season of 1864. The tables were made up and 
 published in the New York Tribune soon after the returns were completed, 
 and for convenient reference the factories are numbered from one to one 
 hundred and thirty-three, inclusive : 
 
218 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Table sbowin"; tlie capital invested in buildings, persons emploj^ed in mnnufncturing, num- 
 ber of cows, season of beginning and closing operations, pounds of milk and pounds 
 of cbeese, at one bundred and lliirty-tbree different factories in various parts of tbe 
 State of New York, for tlie year 1864: 
 
 
 I 
 
 Persons em- 
 
 _ 
 
 
 Q 
 
 ployed 
 
 is 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 O 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 b 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Q ^ 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 3 
 A 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 
 
 («!5Sri!555sv two ounces of = 
 
 ^ 
 
 XI 
 
 salt to twenty. ^"^^^ <^"™^^ ^^'^■ 
 
 two pounds of butter. In making winter 
 
 butter a little more salt is added at the last 
 
 working. The butter, after having been 
 
 salted and worked, is allowed to stand till 
 
 Chfrn Dashees. evening, and is then worked a second time 
 
 and packed in sixty pound pails and shipped twice a week to New York. 
 
 At this factory in hot weather, after the butter is salted and worked over, 
 
250 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 it is taken to the spring and immersed in the water where it remains until 
 evening when it is taken out and worked over and packed. For winter butter 
 a small teaspoonful of pulverized saltpetre and a large tablespoonful of white 
 sugar are added for the twenty-two pounds of butter at the last working. 
 No coloring matter is used in butter at this establishment. 
 
 The butter is worked on an inclined slab with beveled sides running down 
 to the lower end and within four inches of each other. A long wooden lever, 
 so formed as to fit in a socket at this point, is used for working the butter. 
 It is very simple and does the Avork effectually. In churning, the dashers are 
 so arranged as to go within a quarter of an inch of the bottom of the churn 
 at every stroke, and rise above the cream in their upward stroke. 
 
 When butter is packed in firkins, none but those made of white oak are 
 used. These firkins are very handsomely made, and are tight so as not to 
 allow the least leakage. Before using they are soaked in cold water, and 
 
 The Butteb Bowl and Ladle. 
 
 after that in hot water, and then again with cold water. After being filled 
 with butter they are headed up and strong brine poured in at the top to fill 
 all the intervening spaces. The pails for holding the milk in the springs are 
 daily cleaned with soap and hot water, rinsed in spring water, and put on a 
 rack to dry. In furnishing a factory two pails are allowed for each cow, as 
 it is necessary to have a double set. 
 
 THE CHEESE. 
 
 In making the cheese, the milk is set at eighty-two degrees ; highest heat, 
 ninety-six degrees to ninety-eight degrees, and three pounds of salt to one 
 hundred of curd. The curd is pressed in fourteen inch hoops, and cheese 
 made four inches high. They are of a very good flavor, and by no means 
 unpalatable — though of course, inferior to pure milk cheese. These cheeses are 
 shipped to warm climates, and many of them go to China in exchange for tea. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 251 
 
 OKANGE COUNTY MILK ASSOCIATION. 
 
 This establishment commenced operations in 1862. The main building 
 is sixty feet by twenty-four feet, and is located about four miles northeast from 
 Middletown. The number of cows from which milk is delivered is five 
 hundred and fifty, and the farmers owning the building number thirty. The 
 construction of the building and spring house is similar to that of the Wall- 
 kill Association. There are two spring rooms, each ten by twenty-four feet. 
 The water here is soft, aud stands at a temperature of fifty degrees. 
 
 The factory stands near or adjoining a wet and springy piece of ground, 
 covered with fragments of rock from the Shawangunk Mountains. At this 
 
 VAT 
 
 GEOtTND Plan op Orange County Milk Associatioit Bctteb Factobt, 
 
 establishment, in addition to the spring room there is a cellar twelve feet 
 by fourteen feet, with walls nicely laid up with stone, and extending into the 
 bank, at the rear end of the building. Here the butter is stored in summer as 
 soon as packed, where it remains until ready to be shipped. 
 
 In the fall of the year, when cream does not readily sour, it is put in the 
 churn in the evening and a can of water raised to 100° set in the cream. It 
 is left there over night, and by morning the cream sours. 
 
 EOCKVILLE MILK ASSOCIATION. 
 
 The main structure is twenty-five by fifty feet — two stories, which are used 
 for manufacturing and curing cheese — adjoining this on one end, is the spring 
 room, and on the side running back in the shape of L, is the churn room, 
 twenty by thirty feet. On the end of the churn room is the ice house, which 
 is arranged so as to lead out of the churn room with a broad hall or alley, 
 which serves as a cellar for storing butter. 
 
252 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbanbry. 
 
 This hall has double sides packed in with tan-bark, and the ice-house being 
 on one side, with communication by door, makes it a cool and nice place for 
 keeping butter or cream in summer. In the spring room there are two A'ats, 
 one nine feet by twelve feet, and the other eight feet by twelve feet, sunk 
 even with the floor, and arranged so as to be filled from one spring. The 
 temperature of the water is 48®. It is soft water, but less so than those at 
 the other factories to which we have referred. The delivery of the milk is at a 
 window and on a platform the liight of the wagon. As the teams drive up, the 
 cans are slid upon the platform and emptied into a large receiving box or can of 
 
 tin inside the window, standing upon platform 
 
 scales, where the milk is weighed and then 
 
 conducted out by two faucets into the long 
 
 tin pails or coolers. The cost of structure 
 
 and fixtures was $3,000. The number of 
 
 cows from which milk is delivered is four 
 
 hundred and twenty-five, and on November 
 
 1st the receipts were eighteen hundred quarts 
 
 — estimating a quart, wine measure, to weigh 
 
 ^ 5 two pounds. Milk varies in weight, and a 
 
 ^ ^ M wine quart weighs at some seasons of the 
 
 ^ 30 year, a trifle over two pounds. During the 
 
 • I OO A 
 
 >^3 
 
 Ground Plan of Rockvillb Butter Factory. 
 
 month of May, when cows are in pasture, Mr. Slaughter finds that one 
 hundred quarts, wine measure, will weigh two hundred and eleven pounds. 
 The milk here is kept in the spring from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, when 
 the cream is taken off" and alloAved to sour, and then churned. Mr. Upte- 
 GROVE, the Superintendent of the factory, says that about one-tenth more 
 butter is obtained from the cream when churned sour than when sweet. 
 
 BUTTER MAKING AT THE ORANGE COUNTY FACTORY. 
 
 The churns are the barrel and a-half dash churn, and are filled about half 
 full of cream, which is diluted by putting in cold Avater in summer and warm 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 253 
 
 water in cold weather, at the rate of sixteen to thirty quarts for each mess or 
 churning. The temperature of the cream in summer, when the churns are 
 started is about 60°, but in cold weather they are started at about 64°. 
 When a mess of cream is to be churned the churns are filled about half full, 
 and a pail of spring Avater added to dilute the cream ; in warm weather cold 
 water is used and in cold weather warm water, so as to make the mass at a 
 temperature of 60° to 62°. The temperature of the cream while churning is 
 kept below 65 °, for if at the close of the churning the buttermilk should be at 
 a temperature above 64° the flavor and color of the butter are injured. When 
 the butter begins to come, the churn is rinsed down with cold water. After 
 the butter is taken from the churn, care is taken not to touch it more than is 
 necessary with the hands. The butter trays are elliptical in shape, and the 
 ladle is used for turning over the butter while it is being washed. In salting 
 and working over, the whole is done by the buiter-worker heretofore 
 described, and great care is taken not to work it too much, as overworking 
 spoils the grain and makes the butter salvy, A twenty-two pound batch is 
 laid upon the inclined slab or butter-worker, and the lever applied, first 
 beginning at one side, until the whole is gone over. Only a few manipula- 
 tions of this kind are required, and one is surprised at the expedition with 
 which this part of the process is efiected. The salting and working of the 
 butter is by the same rule adopted at the other factories, eighteen ounces of 
 salt being used for twenty-two pounds of butter. 
 
 The butter-worker is similar to the one alluded to, except that the lever 
 is diamond-shaped, which it is claimed is an improvement. The inclined 
 
 triangular slab on which the butter is 
 worked stands upon legs, and has beveled 
 sides about three inches high. It is four 
 feet long and twenty-five inches wide at 
 the upper end, tapering down to five 
 inches at the lower end. At this point 
 there is an opening for the escape of the 
 butter-milk into a pail below. In salting, 
 the butter is washed and then spread out Avith the ladle upon the worker, and 
 fine, pure Ashton salt sprinkled over the mass. It is then turned over a little 
 with the ladle and afterwards worked with the lever. 
 
 At this factory there was a little contrivance consisting of a wheel and 
 lever and weight" for regulating the stroke of the dashers when churning. 
 The trays are elliptical, being two and a-half feet long and one and a-half feet 
 across, and will hold twenty-five pounds of butter. The butter is packed in 
 Orange county pails or tubs holding sixty pounds, or in oak firkins of eighty 
 pounds, as at the other factories, and shipped twice a week to New York, 
 bringing seventy cents per pound. The association is composed of twenty- 
 eight farmers who have dairies running from five to ten and up to thirty cows. 
 
 Obanse county Butter- Wobkek. 
 
254 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Four farmers not belonging to the association deliver milk here and are 
 charged $1.50 per cow extra. 
 
 Return Butter Pail. 
 
 FiBKm. 
 Orange County Butter Packages. 
 
 Half FmKiN. 
 
 DAIRY PRODUCTS OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 The following tables give the number of pounds of butter and cheese 
 made in different sections of the Union, according to the census returns of 
 1850 and 1860. The total production of butter in the United States and 
 Territories in 1850 was 313,345,306 pounds, and in 1860, 469,681,372 pounds. 
 Of cheese, the product in 1850 was 105,535,893, pounds, and in 1860, 103,- 
 663,927 pounds, showing an increase in the production of butter, and a 
 decrease in cheese during that decade. From the tables it will be seen which 
 States are largely interested in this branch of industry. For convenience of 
 reference we have arranged the States in groups : 
 
 Amount of Butler and Clieese made in 1860 and 1850. 
 
 1860. 
 
 1850. 
 
 I860. 
 
 NEW ENGLAND STATES, 
 
 Connecticut, 
 
 Maine, 
 
 Massachusetts, 
 
 New Hampshire, 
 
 Rhode Island, 
 
 Vermont,.. . . , 
 
 Total, 
 
 MIDDLE STATES. 
 
 New York, 
 
 Pennsylvania, 
 
 New Jersey, 
 
 Delaware, 
 
 Maryland, 
 
 District of Columbia, ." ." 
 
 Total, 
 
 7,620,912 
 
 11,687,781 
 
 8,297,936 
 
 6,956,764 
 
 10,211,767 
 
 15,900,359 
 
 ,498,119 
 243,811 
 ,071,370 
 ,977,056 
 995,670 
 137,980 
 
 60,675,519 
 
 52,924,006 
 
 103,097.280 
 
 58,653,511 
 
 10,714.447 
 
 1,430.502 
 
 5,265,295 
 
 18,835 
 
 79,766,094 
 
 39,878.418 
 
 9,487,210 
 
 1,055,308 
 
 3,806,160 
 
 14,872 
 
 179,179,870 
 
 134,008,062 
 
 3,898,411 
 1.799,862 
 5,294,090 
 2,232,092 
 181,511 
 8,215,030 
 
 5,363,277 
 2,434.454 
 
 7,088,142 
 
 3,196,563 
 
 316,508 
 
 8,720,834 
 
 21,620,996 
 
 27,119,778 
 
 48,548,289 
 
 2,508,556 
 
 182,172 
 
 6,579 
 
 8,342 
 
 51,253,938 
 
 49,741,413 
 
 2,505,034 
 
 365,756 
 
 3,187 
 
 3,975 
 
 1,500 
 
 52,620,865 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 255 
 
 Amount uf l)\ilter aud cheese made in 1860 and 1850. — Continued. 
 
 18G0. 
 
 1850. 
 
 1860. 
 
 1850. 
 
 WESTERN STATES. 
 
 Indiana 
 
 Illinois, 
 
 Iowa, 
 
 Michigan, 
 
 Minnesota, 
 
 Missouri, 
 
 Ohio, 
 
 Kentucky, 
 
 Wisconsin, 
 
 Kansas, 
 
 Nebraslca, 
 
 Total, 
 
 SOUTHERN STATES. 
 
 Alabama, 
 
 Arkansas, 
 
 Florida, 
 
 Georgia, 
 
 Mississippi, 
 
 Louisiana, 
 
 North Carolina, 
 
 South Carolina, 
 
 Tennessee, 
 
 Texas, 
 
 Virginia, 
 
 Total, 
 
 PACIFIC STATES AND TERRITORIES, 
 
 CaliTornia, 
 
 Oregon, 
 
 New Mexico, 
 
 Wasiiington, 
 
 Utah, 
 
 Total 
 
 18,306 
 28,052 
 11.958 
 15,503 
 
 2,957 
 12,704 
 48,543 
 11,716 
 13,611 
 
 1,093 
 343 
 
 ,651 
 
 ,551 
 ,666 
 ,482 
 ,673 
 837 
 ,162 
 ,609 
 ,328 
 ,497 
 541 
 
 164,786,997 
 
 6,028,478 
 4,067,556 
 408,855 
 5,439,765 
 5,006,610 
 1,444,743 
 4,735,495 
 3,777,934 
 
 10,017,787 
 5,850,583 
 
 13,464,722 
 
 60,242,258 
 
 3,095,035 
 
 1,000,157 
 
 13,259 
 
 153,092 
 
 316,046 
 
 4,577,589 
 
 12,881,535 
 
 12,526,543 
 
 2,171,188 
 
 7,065,878 
 
 1,100 
 
 7,834,359 
 
 34,449,379 
 
 9,947,523 
 
 3,633,750 
 
 90,511,255 
 
 4,008,811 
 1,854,239 
 
 371,498 
 4,640,599 
 4,346,234 
 
 683,069 
 4,746,290 
 2,981,850 
 8,139,583 
 2,344,900 
 11,089,359 
 
 45,206,392 
 
 705 
 
 211,464 
 
 111 
 
 83,309 
 
 295,589 
 
 605,795 
 
 1,848,557 
 
 918.635 
 
 1,641,897 
 
 199,314 
 
 259,633 
 
 21,618,893 
 
 190,400 
 
 1,104,300 
 
 29,045 
 
 12,342 
 
 28,428,811 
 
 15,923 
 
 16,810 
 
 5,280 
 
 15,587 
 
 4,427 
 
 6,153 
 
 51,119 
 
 1,543 
 
 133,575 
 
 275,128 
 
 280,852 
 
 808,397 
 
 1,343,689 
 
 105,379 
 
 37,240 
 
 12,146 
 
 53,331 
 
 1,551,785 
 
 624,564 
 
 1,278,225 
 
 209,840 
 
 1,011,493 
 
 203,572 
 
 20,819,542 
 213,954 
 400,283 
 
 24,761,472 
 
 31,412 
 30,088 
 18,015 
 46,976 
 21,191 
 1,957 
 95,921 
 4,970 
 
 177,681 
 95,299 
 
 436,292 
 
 959,802 
 
 150 
 36,980 
 
 5,848 
 
 30,998 
 
 73,976 
 
 We have not the exact figures on hand for giving the statistics of butter 
 and cheese made in the Union during the year 1865, but the production of 
 cheese in the middle and western States alone, it is believed, was more than 
 two hundred millions of pounds. From facts gathered by the American 
 Dairymen's Association, it is known that there are now upward of a thousand 
 cheese factories in operation throughout the United States. If the number 
 of cows to each be estimated at five hundred, we have half a million cows 
 employed in the associated dairies, and if the average annual yield per cow 
 be put at three hundred pounds, we have in the aggregate one hundred and 
 fifty million pounds. But there are a large number of private or family 
 dairies in operation, especially in the eastern or middle States, the production 
 
256 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 of which, it is believed, will more than make up the estimated annual product 
 of cheese for 1865 to two hundred million pounds. 
 
 If the value of the cheese product of 1865 be put on an average of fifteen M 
 cents per pound, it shows a total of $30,000,000, while the butter product, if .■ 
 no larger than that of 1860, at the low price of twenty-five cents per pound, 
 would amount to over $114,000,000. In the estimate of the cheese product 
 it will be proper to remark that the quantity is presumed to be the amount 
 sold, and does not include that consumed in the families of producers. 
 
 EXPORTS OF CHEESE AIS'D BUTTER. 
 
 The statistics of trade show that the dairy products of the country are 
 becoming an important branch of commerce. The following table gives the 
 quantity of butter and cheese exported from New York for a series of years : 
 
 
 LBS. OF BUTTER. 
 
 LBS. OP CHEESE. 
 
 1858 
 
 
 5,098,000 
 
 9,287,000 
 
 23 252 000 
 
 1859 
 
 2,494,000 
 10,987,000 
 21,865,000 
 29,241.000 
 23,060;793 
 14,174,861 
 22,000,000 
 
 5,000,000 
 
 I860 
 
 1861 
 
 40 041 000 
 
 1863 
 
 38,722,000 
 40.781,168 
 46 755 842 
 
 1863 
 
 1864 
 
 1865 
 
 47 101 000 
 
 1866 
 
 45 000 000 
 
 1867 
 
 58 000 000 
 
 
 
 
 The decrease in the cheese exjDorts of 1865 from those of the year previous, 
 resulted from an extraordinary home demand, which took large quantities of 
 cheese at a price in advance of what shippers felt warranted to pay for it to 
 export. The shipments abroad have been mostly to Great Britain. A light 
 exportation for a number of years has been kept up with the West Indies and 
 with South America, the trade with the latter being for the most part in a 
 a poorer grade of cheese made from skimmed milk. Recently this chai'acter 
 of cheese has found a favorite reception in China, where parcels have been 
 sent in exchange for tea. It is believed there is a wide range of market yet 
 unopened for the disposal of American cheese, needing only a little enterprise 
 on the part of dealers for its introduction ; and that when once introduced, it 
 . will increase steadily until a heavy foreign demand is reached. Great Britain 
 alone can now take considerably more than our surplus, and since the qualities 
 and adaptation of styles to her needs meets, year by year, greater favoi-, the 
 time cannot be far distant when America will be regarded, if she be not 
 already, the great cheese-producing country of the world. 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN DAIRYING THEIR POINTS OF DIFFERENCE AND 
 
 COMPARATIVE MERITS. 
 
 Associated dairying is now conducted on so large a scale, and has so 
 wide a range in America, as to give it distinctive features of nationality. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 257 
 
 European writers have asserted that this system was inaugurated in Switzer- 
 land, and that America simply borrowed the idea, putting it into successful 
 operation, and therefore is not entitled to any mei'it as to its originality. 
 Without stopping to point out the great dissimilarity between the associated 
 dairy management of Switzerland and that of America, the truth of history 
 demands the statement, that whatever excellence may attach to the American 
 system, nothing in it has been borrowed from abroad. In the report of the 
 Department of Agriculture for 1865 I gave a brief account of the origin of 
 the cheese factory movement. Having been familiar with its early history, 
 with the men and causes that led the way to this improvement in dairy prac- 
 tice, I feel competent to speak authoritatively on the subject, and claim its 
 originality as wholly American. 
 
 The American factory system now stands pre-eminently in advance of 
 dairy practice in the Old World. By it a more uniform and better product 
 of cheese and butter can be made. These must soon take the lead in Euro- 
 pean markets, and European nations will adopt the system or be content to 
 see their own products rank as secondary, and sold at inferior prices. Since 
 the adoption of the factory system a large export trade has grown up between 
 America and Great Britain. The value of American cheese now sent abroad 
 is from seven to ten millions of dollars annually, and as factories improve in 
 the quality of their manufacture, a much larger trade, it is believed, will be 
 inaugurated. 
 
 England is old in dairy husbandry, and always claimed superiority in dairy 
 practice. A great many styles of cheese are manufactured, and some of them 
 sell in their pi'incipal markets at better prices than that made at our factories. 
 American dairymen, previous to 1866 had never been able to find out wherein 
 this superiority lay. In view of the large trade already existing, and likely 
 to increase, it was deemed important that a better knowledge of English 
 dairy husbandry and cheese-making be obtained. The American Dairy Asso- 
 ciation, therefore, engaged the writer to go abroad for this purpose, and the 
 following pages are briefly the result of observations over the dairy districts 
 of Great Britain during the summer of 1866. The dairy lands of Great 
 Britain, it is believed, are no better than in the best dairy districts of America. 
 Pastures, there, it is true, will generally carry more stock than ours, because 
 theirs are freer from weeds and better managed. The yield of hay from per- 
 manent meadows is no larger than from our best lands, two tons per acre 
 being considered a good crop, but theirs is composed of a greater variety 
 of grasses, is finer, and doubtless more nutritious than ours on account of less 
 waste in woody fiber. Their dairy stock is generally no better than in our 
 first-class dairies. I think there is no county in England or Scotland where the 
 average yield of cheese per cow is so large as in Herkimer county, New York. 
 
 In the management of farms they are generally far in advance of us, but 
 in cheese-making their appliances are inferior, their work more laborious, and 
 they have but really one style of cheese that competes with the best grades 
 17 
 
 I 
 
258 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 of our factory make. This is the cheddar, of which the leading features in 
 manufacture will be found under its appropriate head. In the cheddar process 
 as well as in the management of stock of milk and dairy farms, there are 
 doubtless suggestions which will be adopted in our practice when their supe- 
 riority is demonstrated. I have endeavored to call attention to the fact, and 
 to state the point clearly. 
 
 THE CHEESE DISTEICTS OP ENGLAND. 
 
 The cheese districts of England are grouped together in counties lying 
 contiguous. Thus in the south are found Gloucester, Somerset, Wilts, 
 Dorset, &c., while in the north there are Cheshire, Lancashire, Derbyshire, 
 Leicestershire and Shropshire. Other counties produce cheese in limited 
 quantities, but not to such an extent as to make it a leading business. I wentj 
 into the southern districts first, and found three styles of cheese, each having' 
 a diiferent shape and character, and differently manufactured. They were the 
 Cheddar, the double and single Gloucester, and the Wilts. 
 
 I had never seen any large tract of country so beautiful as this part of] 
 England. It was in June, when the hedges were covered with dark greenl 
 foliage, the pastures flecked with the daisy and butter-cup, flowers celebrated 
 by the poets. But the English daisy is not to be confounded with that pest 
 of our fields, the ox-eye daisy, for it is small and unpretending, and does not 
 suck up the life of the land. Then the smooth roads, the villas, the farm-j 
 houses, and the hamlets, with their adornments, together with the garden-likef] 
 cultivation of the land, formed a picture ever to be remembered. For quiet,! 
 pastoral scenery, England is surpassingly beautiful. Everything seems to be 
 " picked up " and in place. You see no tumble-down fences, no unsightly 
 stone heaps, disfiguring the land, no cheap wooden houses falling to pieces,| 
 no remains of wood-piles and other accumulated trash, like a cancer blotching* 
 the premises, but everything seems to be swept up and in order, or, to use a 
 homely phrase, " prepared for company." M 
 
 SOMEESET AND ITS SYSTEM OF EAEMING. 
 
 Somerset has a rolling, undulating surface, and it is in this county that the 
 famous Cheddar cheese originated. In form the county is difficult to describe, 
 perhaps partaking more of an oblong figure than any other. According to 
 recent returns of live stock, &c., its area is one million seventy-four thou- 
 sand two hundred and twenty acres, containing four hundred and forty- 
 four thousand eight hundred and seventy-three inhabitants ; eighty-four 
 thousand two hundred and sixty-two cows ; eighty-nine thousand two hundred 
 and fifty-seven young stock ; six hundred and thirty-six thousand nine hundred 
 and seventy-five sheep ; and seventy-five thousand four hundred and sixty- 
 nine pigs. The surface of the country is generally uneven, and towards the 
 west, on the borders of North Devon, approaching to mountainous. The 
 principal hills lie east and west, and are nearly parallel with each other. 
 These ranges are generally poor, affording pasture for a coarse kind of sheep 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 259 
 
 and some young cattle. The hill-tops of the south and south-west are covered 
 with heather. The geological features of the country are varied, and are 
 chiefly composed of mountain limestone, inferior oolite, the white and blue 
 lias, and the new red sandstone. The highest hills are mountain limestone, 
 which has been forced up from its proper place, and is found overtopping the 
 upper strata to a hight of six or seven hundred feet. The eastern part of the 
 country is generally oolitic, stretching away northward to Bath, at which 
 place it produces some of the finest building stone in the kingdom. The lias 
 comes next in rotation, cropping out from under the oolite westward. The 
 red sandstone is not so prevalent. This, with the oolite, is the lightest soil upon 
 which lai-ge flocks of sheep are kept, which in the south, are chiefly of the South 
 Down breed, but in the northern district, towards Bath, are crossed with the 
 Leicester, forming a larger and more remunerative animal. The method of 
 farming is the four or five-field shift — 1st, wheat : 2d, green crop (turnips, 
 vetches, etc.) ; 3d, barley ; 4th and 5th, clover first and second year. The 
 wheat crop is from twenty-four to forty bushels per acre ; barley from thirty- 
 two to sixty bushels, sometimes more. A heavier kind of land is found on 
 the lias formation. A team of four horses, or six or eight oxen, is employed 
 in plowing it. This is more productive of grain than the lighter land, and is 
 farmed in a similar manner. 
 
 In some places what is termed a dog-flock, that is, young sheep of a year 
 or so old, are fattened for the Bristol and Bath markets. The lowlands and 
 valleys are rich and i^roductive. Between the ranges of hills before noticed 
 are some of the richest plains in England. The vale of Taunton Dean, in 
 the south of the county, is extremely rich. Another nearly level plain extends 
 from the town of Bridgewater to the Mendip hills, and eastward to the city 
 of Wells. Another plain, but rather more uneven, stretches north of the 
 Mendip towards Bristol. These plains are largely devoted to the fattening 
 of beef and mutton for the supply of the local, and also the London markets. 
 Somerset is noted for its cheese, of which large quantities are made. It bears 
 the name of Cheddar from a small village at the foot of the Mendip hills. 
 The name oi'iginated from the farmers of the village uniting the milk of their 
 cows for the purpose of making a larger cheese. This was done at each 
 other's houses in turn. From that time, which was about one hundred years 
 ago, the thick cheese made in Somersetshire has borne the name of Cheddar, 
 and bears the highest quotations of any English cheese in the London and 
 other markets. It is made much thicker than was at first anticipated. The 
 size that now is in request ranges from forty to eighty and up to one hundred 
 pounds ; the shape is from ten to fourteen inches in depth, and fifteen and 
 a-half inches in diameter. 
 
 This county, and the others south, have suffered very little from the cattle 
 plague. Dairy cows, however, during the season (1866) have been high, com- 
 manding from eighteen to twenty pounds sterling per cow, or from ninety to 
 one hundred dollars. The dairy cows are motley grades, and so far as I have 
 
260 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 seen, do not show any better milking qualities than the first-class dairies of 
 Herkimer and Oneida counties, New York. 
 
 DESCEIPTIOIS" OF STOCK. 
 
 The cattle kept in the county at this time are the Devon and Short-Horn, 
 the former pure of their kind, the latter rarely so, but have been employed to 
 improve the original stock of the country. The Devons are said to have been 
 formerly (with few exceptions), a small, three-cornered, nondescript animal, 
 of little use to the dairyman, and less to the breeder and grazier. Their 
 home is South Somerset and North Devon, The race is wonderfully improved 
 through the energy and perseverance of some farmers, who have taken the 
 best animals they could find and bred from them, until they have succeeded 
 in producing one of the best animals of which England can boast. In the 
 opinion of some no beef is equal to it, the fat and lean being so nicely inter- 
 mingled. Their milking qualities are not yet equal to those of other kinds. 
 A few years since there was a breed called the Hampshire cow, a useful 
 animal for any purpose, of good constitution, size, milk, and beef. Mr. 
 Harding gave me a description of a cow of this breed, nearly the last of the 
 race, which was twenty years old, and had been milked the jDrevious summer, 
 and in the March following went to the butchers at £20 Is. I was told that 
 fifty years ago, in the neighborhood of the Mendip hills, they had what was 
 termed the " Mendip cow," of little service but to milk ; but both these good, 
 and inferior animals have passsed away, and they have scarcely any cow 
 but what partakes, in a greater or less degree, of the Short-Horn breed. 
 
 QUANTITY or CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 The increased quantity of cheese supplied by this county is not due, it is 
 said, to the change of stock, so much as to the superior management of the 
 present day in feeding stock, clearing the hedge-rows, and draining the wet 
 land, &c. Fewer cows were kept thirty years ago than now. It was then 
 generally supposed that no more could be kept with advantage beyond what 
 half of the pasture or grass land would supply with grass in the summer, and 
 the other half cut for the winter. Now they keep more cows, mow less, and 
 in winter do with less hay ; they feed with straw and oil cake while the cows 
 are dry, so that they get little or no hay till thej" calve. Three pounds of 
 cake per day (the best American) they say will keep a cow in fair condition 
 if straw be given ad libitum. In some particular districts as much as six 
 hundred weight or six hundred and seventy-two pounds of cheese per cow, 
 it is said, are made. This is on the best cheese-producing land ; and this, 
 from long observation, is chiefly on some one of the oolite formations. Not 
 only does it produce the largest amount of cheese, but also of butter. There 
 are no statistics of the quantity of cheese made annually in the county, but 
 from all I can gather, it is from eighteen million to twenty-five million of 
 pounds. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 261 
 
 wiltshire. 
 For diversity and beauty of scenery Wiltshire is not equal to Somerset. 
 Its geological formation, in general terms, may be classed in three divisions, 
 namely, the white lias, which is lowest, the several classes of oolite, and the 
 chalk. According to the late returns the ai'ea is 865,092 acres. The number 
 of cows kept is 44,760 ; young stock and oxen, 32,967 ; sheep, 596,822 ; and 
 pigs, 61,012. The natural division of the county is so remarkably distinct, 
 that it must be described accordingly, viz., north and south. The south part, 
 with a few exceptions, is the chalk district, and forms what is called the 
 Wiltshire downs. Lying high, the land is very thin ; still the valleys and 
 slopes are rich for growing grain and turnips. The farms are large, some 
 1,000 to 2,000 acres. Large numbers of sheep, known as the South Downs, 
 are kept upon these farms. They have black faces and feet, the wool short 
 and fine. The mutton commands the highest price in the London market of 
 any in the kingdom. Though small in size, they will frequently load them- 
 selves with flesh, so as to reach 120 pounds in weight. In this district is the 
 celebrated Salisbury Plain, also on the chalk. It is not strictly a plain, except 
 in general appearance ; but is beautifully undulating, not unlike the ocean 
 with its long swells after a storm. The farming of this district is generally 
 the four-field system. In some places, such as on the white clay and the sandy 
 loam at the bottom of the hills, it is worked in the three-field system. All 
 the light land is plowed with two horses. Neat and good farming is every- 
 where seen, and it is claimed is scarcely surpassed in England. North Wilt- 
 shire is very difierent in appearance from the south. The broad uninclosed 
 downs are no more seen, but rather inclosed fields with numbers of trees in 
 the hedges, giving the appearance of forests from the surrounding hights. 
 This is the oolite district, and is farmed in much the same manner as the 
 south, being all light lands. The temperature of the climate being warmer, 
 the grain ripens earlier and is therefore less liable to blight. 
 
 THE WHITE LIAS AND DAIRY DISTRICT. 
 
 The lias is a very small portion and may be merged into the dairy district, 
 which is principally in the middle and northern j)arts. The cows are Short- 
 Horns, and regarded here as the most useful in England, excellence in milk 
 and meat being alike sought for. A large quantity of cheese is made which 
 finds its way to the London and other markets. The quality of the cheese 
 is not the best ; a little milk butter is usually taken out, but not always, but 
 a large quantity of whey butter is often made. The method of cheese making 
 is laborious, not so much in the manipulation of the curd ^s in the salting and 
 pressing and the preparation for market, all being unnecessary labor. The 
 salting, which might and ought to be in the curd, is continued over two or 
 three days, rubbing it in with the hand over the external parts of the cheese, 
 which receives a fresh cloth every time it is salted, which in some instances 
 is twice a day. The cheese is then continued in the press, turned every 
 
262 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 morning for from four to six days, after which it may venture to the cheese 
 room, which is a large, airy room, supposed to be requisite for properly dry- 
 ing. The cheese is then allowed to throw out a coat, generally blue. This 
 coat must be scraped off and a new one formed, after which it goes to the 
 market, realizing from ten to fifteen shillings, under the improved Cheddar 
 price. Wiltshire, up to the 21st of April last, had lost but ninety-nine cattle 
 on account of cattle plague, and I heard of no cases in the county during the 
 summer. 
 
 The principal dairy district of Wilts ranges from Westbury, in the south, 
 to Chippenham, northward, around Chippenham and towards Swindon, from 
 forty to fifty miles in length. It is generally narrow from Westbury to Chip- 
 penham, and from Chippenham to Swindon from ten to twelve miles wide 
 and a pretty level tract of country. Before reaching Salisbury to the south 
 you strike the chalk formation which underlies the " Salisbury plains." In 
 going to Salisbury from the north, the chalk first shows itself in a range of 
 high bluffs or hills. The chalk lands are rather light and are worked with 
 two horses, while with the heavier lands three or four horses are attached to 
 the plow. Upon the lowlands the soil is of richer character. In passing 
 through this county one is continually coming upon large flocks of sheep in 
 charge of shepherds— mutton sheep, of course, since the production of meat 
 is always an important element in the resources of British agriculture. 
 
 MANNER OF MAKING WILTS CHEESE. 
 
 There is nothing in the manufacture of Wilts cheese that would be of 
 any account to the dairymen of America, and it is a matter of surprise that 
 the people of this district are so bound up in old practices as to waste their 
 time and substance in manufacturing cheese of this character. Comparing 
 the Wiltshire method and the apparatus in use with our factory system, the 
 latter is about a century in advance. I give some of the leading features of 
 the Wilts method of manufacture, not for the purpose of benefiting anybody, 
 but rather as a matter of curiosity, if I may so term it. I was upon some of 
 the best farms of Wiltshire, and among some of the most intelligent of its 
 cheese makers, and shall give their best practice. 
 
 The night's milk is skimmed in the morning and added to the morning's 
 mess ; milk set at 80° and left about an hour to coagulate. It is then broken 
 up with a circular breaker having an upright handle and used as you would 
 push a churn dash up and down. The breaking is done gently at first. In 
 cooking the mass is raised to 100°, stirring all the time with the breaker. 
 It is then left to rest, and as soon as the curd can be handled it is taken out 
 of scald and put to press. It remains in press twenty minutes ; is then taken 
 out, ground and salted at the rate of two pounds of salt to the hundred weight 
 of curd. It is ground again and put to press. The next day the cheese ia 
 taken out of press and salted on the outside, receives a new cloth, and is put 
 back to press, the same course being pursued for two successive days, after 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 263 
 
 which it gets no more salting, but is kept in press eight days, each day being 
 taken out and turned. It is then put into a stone cheese room and left for a 
 week or two and turned every day. At the end of this time the cheese will 
 be covered with mold, when it is put in a tepid bath or moistened and the 
 mold scraped off, when it goes to the dry room. Here it is turned every day 
 until fit for market, say from sixty to ninety days old, or according to the 
 demand and price. The Wiltshire cheese is less solid than the Gloucester, 
 to which I shall refer hereafter. 
 
 At one of the farms I visited, where sixty cows were kept, and very nice 
 stock, too, the product was a trifle over two pounds of curd per day from 
 each cow, and one and a-half pounds of butter for each cow per week. 
 Cockey's cheese apparatus was in use, which consists of a tub having a 
 double bottom, the upper one copper, heat being applied between the two, 
 either with hot water or steam ; but generally the old-fashioned tubs hold 
 sway. The hoop for pressing the cheese is turned out of a solid block of 
 wood, with a bottom to it pierced with holes for the whey to escape. When 
 put to press, some eight cheeses are piled up together, one above the other, 
 and the pressure applied to the lot at one time. The milk pails are made of 
 tin, and hold about twenty-four quarts ; they are formed with a projection or 
 handle on one side and are carried upon the head while taking the milk to 
 the dairy. 
 
 The Wiltshire dairies are very cleanly. The dairy rooms are built of 
 stone, with stone floors and whey vats of lead, and everything kept in the 
 neatest possible manner. In this respect they are models, but the amount of 
 labor in cheese making is very great, and the dairywomen adhere with perti- 
 nacity to the old customs, giving no reason for this waste of labor, except 
 that " that is the way we always do." In Wiltshire I found the stock better 
 than in Somersetshire, some attention being paid to breeding. Wiltshire 
 has a great cheese market at Chippenham. 
 
 THE CHEESE MARKET AT CHIPPENHAM. 
 
 The market place is an open court surrounded by buildings, one side of 
 which is open and supported by pillars, thus giving a spacious place for the 
 stowing of cheese under cover. The open court is nicely paved, and the 
 arcades on either side have a stone floor. The cheese is brought in carts, 
 packed loosely in straw, without boxing. They are taken from the cart and 
 placed upon the stone floors in the arcades, spread out or piled up. Each 
 dairy farmer has his lot together, and they are thus exposed for sale. The 
 cheesemongers or dealers come down from London, Bristol, Bath and other 
 places, and make their purchases. There is a constant hum of voices and 
 tread of feet, as one can readily imagine where a large number of people are 
 collected together intent on selling or purchasing, or are here out of curiosity, 
 or perhaps to meet persons on other business beside the cheese trade. The 
 dealers go aboiit testing the cheese, making their purchases and ordering it 
 
264 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 to be sent away as sales have been made. No boxes are used in the trans- 
 portation of cheese as with us in America. The market days here are twice 
 a month, and often, I was told, as much as two or three hundred tons of 
 cheese are in the market during the fall sales. There was a considerable 
 quantity on sale at the time of my visit, all new cheese, and most of it Wilt- 
 shire. The Wiltshire cheese is a small, flat cheese, from four to five inches 
 thick, fifteen to sixteen inches in diameter, and taking four to make one hun- 
 dred weight (one hundred and twelve pounds). They are inferior to the 
 Cheddar, and very much inferior to American factory cheese, and the highest 
 prices are only occasionally realized. 
 
 GLOUCBSTEKSHIEB, 
 
 I think there are no statistics giving the number of pounds of cheese 
 annually produced in Gloucestershire, but some estimate may be made from 
 ofiicial returns of the number of coavs in the county. It is put at 34,744; 
 loss from cattle plague up to 21st of April, 116. I understand that the losses 
 since that time have not been of much account. The geological features are 
 the oolite, the lias and the new red sandstone, the former comprising the 
 principal part of the hills and high lands, the lias the more level and the 
 latter the richer and deeper soils of the valleys, which are chiefly pasture 
 lands, upon which butter, cheese and meat are largely produced. The oolite 
 strata in its varied character runs from north to south, forming the Cotswold 
 hills. Entering Somersetshire at Lansdown, near Bath, where it furnishes 
 the beautiful Bath stone, passing outward into North Somerset, widening 
 as it enters Wiltshire, soon after which, in the neighborhood of Westbury, it is 
 no longer the surface soil, but becomes loaded with the green sandstone and 
 chalk formation, like the snail which bears its shell upon its back. The Cots- 
 wold hills are well farmed in the four, five or six course systems, according 
 to the capability of the • soil. Wheat, barley and turnips are successfully 
 grown. The hills give the name to the Cotswold sheep — which have long 
 been bred and fed there — beautiful animals, with white face, and of highly 
 improved quality, both as regards meat and wool, the latter being long and 
 fine, the fleece weighing from five to ten pounds. A ram will sometimes 
 turn ofi" fifteen or sixteen pounds of wool. They are generally heavier in 
 mutton than the Downs. 
 
 On the western side of the Cotswold hills, extending to the Severn River, 
 and fifteen to twenty miles in length, is what is called the vale of Berkeley. 
 It has every appearance of having been, in past time, covered with the sea. 
 This valley is the chief dairy district of the county of Gloucester. The native 
 cow is of dark color, with a black nose, short legs ; is a thick-set, well-built 
 animal ; altogether a very useful beast ; but the Short-Horns and Herefords 
 are displacing her. 
 
 In the regular Gloucestershire dairies the cheese is made thin, eight of 
 them only weighing one hundred and twenty pounds. They are made twice 
 
PRJicTiCAL Dairy Husbanbby. 265 
 
 a day, the work beginning about seven o'clock in the morning, and being 
 finished about ten or eleven o'clock. At five in the afternoon they commence 
 with the evening milk, and finish between eight and nine o'clock. This 
 cheese is known in the cheese-consuming world as the famous Berkely cheese. 
 If well made it is rich and sweet, and the makers are quite as tenacious of 
 their reputation as those Avho make cheese worth from ten to twenty shillings 
 per hundred weight more money. Cows are generally kept, more or less, over 
 the county except on the uplands. The south and south-west, around the 
 neighborhood of Bristol, are the coal meadows. This district is not farmed 
 so well, comparatively, as the other sections, from various circumstances ; 
 being in the coal district, the surface is uneven and the enclosures small, as 
 are also the farms ; besides it is near Bristol, at which place hay, sti'aw and 
 milk are continually sold. 
 
 CHEESE APPARATUS AND MODE OF " SINGLE GLOSTER " CHEESE MANUPACTUEE. 
 
 At a nice farm in the southern part of Gloucestershire, which I visited in 
 June for the purpose of seeing the operations of making " Single Gloster " 
 cheese, the dairy consisted of thirty-five cows. These were Short-Horns, 
 large, handsome, but not showing extraordinary capacity for milk. The 
 dwelling, dairy and buildings Avere all of stone, large, commodious, and every^ 
 thing kept in the neatest manner. The place where the cheese was made was 
 a spacious room with stone floor, clean and well ventilated, and as cool and 
 sweet an apartment as the most fastidious cheese-maker could desire. The 
 utensils or appurtenances for cheese-making consisted of an unpainted tub for 
 holding the milk, leaden vats for holding the whey, a circular wire curd- 
 breaker, having an upright handle springing from the center, dippers, skim- 
 mers, &c., with two box presses for pressing the cheese. The last were 
 unlike anything I had ever seen, and consisted of large square boxes moving 
 up between standards by means of pulleys and ropes attached to a windlass. 
 The boxes were filled with stones, iron, &c., making a weight of several 
 hundreds pounds, and applied directly on the cheese. These presses were 
 very nicely made of dark wood, and varnished, evidently intended to be orna- 
 mental as well as useful. From the manner of their make and the power to 
 be applied in raising the weight, the services of a strong man would be 
 required. The milk was being made up twice a day, making eleven cheeses 
 of fourteen pounds each for every two days, each cheese being about two and 
 a-half inches thick by fourteen or fifteen inches broad. There was no heating 
 apparatus in the room, and none is required in the " Single Gloster " process 
 of cheese-making. As soon as the milk is all deposited in the tub the rennet 
 is added, when it is left to coagulate. As soon as properly coagulated it is 
 broken up with the wire breaker, by moving it up and down, which has a 
 tendency to pulp the curd i*ather than break it, as the word breaking is gener- 
 ally understood by our cheese-makers. The mass is then left for the curd to 
 settle, and after it has arrived at a proper degree of firmness to be handled 
 
266 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the whey is dipped off down to the curd, the tub canted up to drain off what 
 whey remains, and the curd gathered to the upper edge of the tub. The 
 whey being removed, the curd is cut across and heaped up, and pressed with 
 the hands to expel as much of the whey as possible, when it is put to press. 
 It remains in press till morning, when it is taken out, turned and salted on 
 the outside. It is then i-eturned to the press and goes through the same ope- 
 ration from four to six successive days. When taken from the press it is put 
 upon the shelf for a few days, to be turned every day, and finally goes to the 
 cheese room, when it will be ready for market in two or three months, if 
 prices suit. This cheese or drying room is in the upper part of the dwelling 
 house, and the cheeses, when taken here, are placed close together on the floor. 
 
 A chance dealer from Bristol, who was present, made a test of the cheeses 
 by walking upon them as they lay spread out upon the floor, which we were 
 assured was the usual method of determining their firmness and solidity. They 
 stood the test of his weight and boots, and were pronounced among the best in 
 Gloucestershire. The hoops in which the cheese is pressed are turned out of a 
 solid piece of wood, and each has a stationary bottom pierced Avith holes, similar 
 to the hoops used in Wiltshire. In one of the presses I counted fifteen cheeses 
 piled up one upon another, all of which were being pressed together. I think 
 from the above description none of our dairymen will care to make "Single 
 Gloster" cheese and I cannot see why people there will continue to keep along 
 in the same old rut of their forefathers without making some effort to improve. 
 
 I have now presented some' of the general features of this great district. 
 The country is well watered by springs and streams, but no better than, if as 
 well as, many parts of the central counties of New York. Where watering 
 places are constructed the plan is somewhat different from ours — small ponds 
 being more numerous. The pastures produce, perhaps, more feed than with 
 us, from several causes. In the first place they are more free from weeds ; 
 they are better cared for in top-dressings of manures, while the humidity 
 of the climate produces fresher feed and a greater quantity of verdure. 
 
 The permanent pastures have a fine thick sod, filled with a variety of nutri- 
 tious grasses, among which the following may be of interest in this connec- 
 tion. The sweet-scented vei-nal grass {Anthoxanthum odorato) flowers in 
 May, and grows freely in all soils and situations. It is one of the earliest of 
 grasses, and the fragrant odor it affords when dried gives to meadow hay 
 much of its sweetness. Meadow foxtail {Alopecurus pratensis) flowers in 
 May and June. Its early, abundant, leafy produce is much liked by cattle 
 and sheep, and renders it one of the most valuable of pasture grasses. It 
 forms part of the best pastures and thrives under judicious irrigation. 
 Meadow fescue {Festuca pratensis) flowers in June, likes a good soil, and 
 does not attain its full growth until three years from the time of sowing. 
 The produce is nutritious and abundant, and it forms a uniform and abundant 
 turf. Cocks-foot grass {Dactylis glomerata) flowers in June and July, grows 
 three feet high and upward, and forms a large portion of all the best natural 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 267 
 
 pastures, and is regarded superior to most grasses in the quantity and quality 
 of its produce. Its coarse and tufted character makes it unsuitable for lawns. 
 Crested dogstail ( Cynosurus cry status) flowers in July, and is found in all 
 pastures. It suffers but little from dry weather, but produces only a moderate 
 quantity of fine herbage. Hard-fescue grass {Festuca duriuscula) grows two 
 feet high and forms a portion of all dry pastures, and retains a permanent 
 verdure. It flowers in June. Sheep fescue {Festuca ovina) is found in all 
 dry soils from the sea land to a great elevation ; flowers in June. Meadow 
 grass {Poa prate?isis), or Kentucky blue grass. It produces an early, nutri- 
 tious herbage, and is regarded as particularly suited to light soils. Rough- 
 stalked meadow grass (Poa trivialis), fibrous-rooted, rough stalks, forms a 
 portion of almost all mixtures for permanent pasture-grasses, and is particu- 
 larly desirable in grounds shaded with trees. Timothy is also found in pas- 
 tures and meadows, but is not grown to the same extent as with us. Then 
 there are the clovers, red and white, which are so largely grown with us ; 
 and the Alsike clover [Trifolium hyhridum), a true perennial, very productive 
 on moist, rich soils, and will succeed where red clover fails. It is regarded 
 by many as superior to white clover in bulk and quality of produce, and equals 
 it in duration. These are among the leading grasses ; and in seeding for 
 permanent pastures, a compound of the best grasses and clovers is used, 
 often as much as two bushels of the light and twelve pounds of the heavy 
 seed to the acre. 
 
 I think the question of pastures is better understood in England than with 
 us, and it is a point on which we have something to learn from them. I can- 
 not say that the quantity of grass from permanent meadows, or those long in 
 grass, is larger than is often found with us, but the quality is finer and better 
 — that is, the hay has less woody fiber than with us. At Rothamstead — 
 Lawes' celebrated experimental farm — my attention was particularly called 
 to the fineness of the grass made into hay. The old stocks which had been 
 cut down, presented a solid mass of hay almost as fine as hair, and its nutri- 
 tive quality must have been a third more than our timothy, on account of less 
 waste of woody fiber. 
 
 Allusion has been made to permanent meadows, but generally what we 
 term meadows, that is, land devoted to the production of hay, are treated 
 very differently from ours. Much of the hay is grown on what is termed the 
 four or five course shift. It comes in regular rotation after grain crops. It 
 is mowed once or twice, and then broken up for a crop of wheat. Various 
 mixtures are sown, and large yields often result. I went upon a splendid, 
 meadow in Devonshire, where the yield of grass upon the ground must have 
 made at least two and a-half tons of hay per acre, and perhaps more, and it 
 was the first crop. The seeding per acre was as follows : Eight pounds of red 
 clover ; two pounds of white clover ; four pounds of trefoil ; three pounds of 
 Peek's Italian rye-grass. This is not given as an illustration of the best mix- 
 ture, but rather as a specimen of what our farmers would term heavy seeding. 
 
268 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Lands often get more and a greater variety of seeds. Perhaps I am occupy- 
 ing too much space by going so minutely into details ; but I feel earnest for 
 the success of American farmers, and have thought that it might be of inter- Ml 
 est for them to get a little insight into the manner in which dairy farms are ■ 
 managed abroad. Perhaps this may be appreciated the more, when they are 
 told that a farmer in the dairy regions of England often pays from |3,000 to 
 |3,500 per annum in rents and taxation for a two-hundred-acre farm. He 
 pays this for the land alone, and gets no use of any personal property Avhat- 
 ever. He then stocks it at his own expense. He is at all the cost of uten- 
 sils, labor, and of keeping the farm in repair. As the wealthy or " well-to-do " 
 farmer, for the most part, never lays his hand to any labor beyond superin- 
 tendence, one might naturally conclude, as I did, that pretty shrewd manage- 
 ment at least is required to pay this sum, support his establishment, and lay 
 up money from his business. 
 
 By the judicious use of capital and the liberal use of fei'tilizers, and by a 
 system of mixed farming, he is able to accomplish these results. It is true, 
 labor is cheap. He pays his laborers from thirty to forty cents per day, and 
 in harvest a little more ; but he does not board them. They have cottages 
 — good, substantial buildings — and little gardens. These cottages, like the 
 more pretentious mansion of the farmer, are erected by and at the expense of 
 the landlord ; but a certain number of people go with the farm, and they pay 
 rent to the fai'mer for their cottages, say about a shilling per week. 
 
 The condition of the peasantry is, in many respects, most wretched ; but 
 that need not be discussed here. The farmer's position is infinitely above 
 them, and he lives, for the most part, the life of a gentleman. He is a man 
 who is exjDccted to have some means, say from £8 to £10 per acre ; or, in 
 other words, a floating capital of from forty to fifty dollars for every acre of 
 his farm. This he uses in his business, purchasing stock and fertilizers, and 
 making such improvements as he judges will pay him back remunerative 
 profits. And here I cannot do better than introduce the reader to Mr. 
 Haeding, of Marksbury, the great exponent of Cheddar cheese-making in 
 England. Mr. Harding is perhaps sixty years old, and learned the great and 
 essential principles of cheese-making from his ancestors. He has simplified 
 the process of manufacture, and helped to reduce it more to a science; but he 
 does not claim to be the originator of the Cheddar style. He is an intelli- 
 gent, companionable man, with a rich vein of humor in his composition. A 
 brief view of his mode of management will serve as an illustration of the 
 manner in which dairy farms are conducted in the south of England, although 
 in some respects, Mr. Harding's practice differs from that of others. 
 
 MR. Harding's farm. 
 
 The farm may be regarded as of rather inferior land, some of it a com- 
 pact, tenacious soil, requiring a four-horse team to plow it. Comparatively, 
 he places the farm under the head of middle-class lands, and when he first 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandrt. 269 
 
 came upon it, it was considered unadapted to tlie dairy. But, for illustration 
 it will serve our purpose better to take some extra farm, since a nearer 
 approximation will be reached to average results. The farm consists of three 
 hundred acres, two hundred of which are in permanent pasture and meadow, 
 and one hundred acres arable land. The farm is hilly, and rises from the new 
 red sandstone, which is the poorest part, to the white lias, which is level, and 
 upon which lies the arable portion, and again rising to the oolite, which is the 
 best part of the farm. The permanent grass lands are used alternately for 
 pasture and meadow, the change being made annually. Mr. Haeding making 
 good cheese, which sells at a high price, believes it more remunerative to 
 convert as much as possible of the arable land into milk. A considerable 
 portion of the arable land is devoted to grasses that will come early to supply 
 the cows in sjDring. The arable land is managed as follows: First crop, 
 wheat ; second, turnips, vetches, tares, &c. ; third, barley ; when the land is 
 seeded with I'ye-grass one bushel, trefoil, ten pounds, red clover, four pounds, 
 white cloA^er, three pounds per acre. Upon these grasses the cows are pastured 
 two seasons, when it is broken up in August or September and sown with 
 wheat in October, without additional plowing. After the wheat is harvested, 
 a portion of the stubble is immediately plowed and sown with winter tares 
 for feeding sheep early in spring. Another portion is sown at the same time 
 with trifolhitn i7icarnatu')n (Italian crimson clover), another part is sown in 
 February with spi'ing tares, and the balance to Swedes and other turnips. 
 All this feed is to be consumed for the feeding and fattening of sheep, of 
 which from one to two hundred are kept. 
 
 The sheep are purchased in August, at from six to eight months old, at 
 prices ranging from seven dollars and a-half to ten dollars each, and the next 
 season, after shearing, are sold at from fifteen to twenty dollars each. In 
 fattening the sheep, they are hurdled and fed on the turnips, vetches, &c., 
 with corn or cake, say of the latter at the rate of half a pound each per day. 
 The turnips are grown in drills, with an application of from five to six hun- 
 dred pounds of superphosphate per acre, leaving the principal part of the 
 farm-yard manures for the permanent grass lands, upon which are kept from 
 sixty-five to seventy cows, half-a-dozen heifers, and eight horses. Thirty-five 
 dollars per ton are paid for the superphosphate. 
 
 The cows are grades partaking largely of the Short-Horn blood, of good 
 size, with a view that, when failing for the dairy, they may be turned to good 
 account for making beef. Mr, Harding keeps more stock than he grows hay 
 for, in the winter, thinking that grass is far more valuable than hay, and he 
 makes up the lack of fodder by giving two parts straw and one of hay, cut 
 to chaff, with three or four pounds of oil-cake per day to each animal. The 
 cows yield about four hundred and fifty pounds of cheese each annually. 
 They " come in milk " in February, and cheese-making commences about the 
 first of March. The calves are sold to the butcher when a few days old, as is 
 the practice of some of our dairymen. The cows are not kept in barns or 
 
270 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt. 
 
 close stables as is the practice in New York, but are tied in sheds built of 
 stone, the floors nicely paved. In these they take their place during sum- 
 mer — night and morning, for milking, and each milker is allotted seven cows. 
 Tin pails are used for milking, and the milkers place them on the head when 
 carrying the milk to the dairy. 
 
 The pig in this dairy forms an important item of profit. A hundred or 
 more are fattened during the year on barley meal mingled with the whey, 
 which annually realize about seven dollars and a-half per hundredweight, after 
 paying for the meal. The hogs are of the Berkshire breed, and very fine 
 ones. They are kept in a nice, spacious stone piggery, cleaned and bedded 
 every day. The barn is a large stone building, provided with a water-wheel, 
 to which is attached the threshing machine, chaff-cutter and stones for grind- 
 ing the grain. The dairy-house is connected with the dwelling, and is a model 
 of neatness, being built of stone, and provided with Cocket's apparatus for 
 cheese-making, a tolerably good apparatus, but much inferior to our factory 
 vats. The milkers are not allowed to come into the dairy, but pour the milk 
 into a receiver at the window, which conducts it to a tub. The whey passes 
 off through pipes to a cistern in the piggery, where it is pumped for the pigs. 
 
 The production of hay on permanent meadows of this farm is generally at 
 the rate of three thousand eight hundred pounds to the acre. Farm-yard 
 manures are not alloAved to accumulate in the yard, but are taken to the field 
 where they are to be used and there piled. Here it is turned until pretty 
 well rotted, when it is spread upon the lands to be mowed. It is applied at 
 the rate of twenty cartloads per acre, and brushed down fine. 
 
 Results. — ^Under this system the annual average receipts and expenditures 
 are as follows, the calculations of course, being upon a gold standard : 
 
 Cheese sold $5,000 
 
 Profit on sheep, including wool and mutton 500 
 
 Profit on pigs 600 
 
 Grain sold 1,800 
 
 Calves and butter 250 
 
 Total .' 8,150 
 
 The expenses are : , 
 
 For rent $3,500 
 
 For tithes 450 
 
 For poor rates and taxes 400 
 
 For labor 1,750 
 
 5,100 
 
 Leaving an annual profit or balance of 3,050 
 
 The number of male hands employed, including boys, is ten. They get 
 on the average thirty-three cents and three pints of cider each per day. In 
 harvest the men get fifty cents per day ; these sums always including the cost 
 of board, since in England the hands do not live in the farmer's family, as 
 with us, but find themselves in board. The two girls in the house are paid 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271 
 
 thirty and fifty dollars per year and board. These figures were given to me 
 by Mr. Haeding as his average result of profits. To this should be added, 
 doubtless, the value of the food consumed in the family. No items were 
 given for beef sold, since these were made to balance depreciation of stock, 
 purchase of oil-cake, &c. No comment need be made on the foregoing, 
 because among practical men each will make the necessary comparisons and 
 draw his own conclusions as to whether his own or this is the best system of 
 dairy farming. But if any can show a better balance sheet, in gold, from a 
 poor farm of this size, he is doing well. 
 
 CHEDDAR CHEESE-MAKING. 
 
 Having described the Gloster and Wilts process of cheese-making, I will 
 say something of the Cheddar process. The improved English Cheddar 
 cheese is regarded by Englishmen as the finest cheese that is made anywhere. 
 It suits the general taste better than any other description of cheese manu- 
 factured. The fact that Cheddar always commands the highest prices ; that 
 there is an immense demand for it ; and that its manufacture has become 
 more scientific and thorough than that of any other kind, make it important 
 for us to study its character. I was among the Cheddar dairymen for more 
 than two weeks, studying the process of manufacture, and saw some of their 
 most noted dairies. I was at Mr. Gibbon's, who was awarded the gold 
 medal for the best dairy at the international exhibition, at Paris, and at Mr. 
 Harding's of Marksbury, Mr. McAdam's of Gorsly Hill, Cheshire, and 
 others, and after having seen all the difierent styles of cheese in Great 
 Britain, I am of the opinion that the Cheddar is the only process from which 
 American dairymen can obtain suggestions of much practical utility. 
 
 I may here remark that John Bull, like his blood relation Jonathan, is a 
 man of strong prejudices, and will often prefer a Cheddar cheese of no better 
 quality than good American at ten to fifteen shillings per hundred weight 
 more in price, simply because the English Cheddar has a better reputation. 
 This feeling has very much to do in regulating the difference of price between 
 the best samples of cheese of the two countries. But laying all prejudice 
 aside I must, in truth, say that we have not yet been able to surpass in excel- 
 lence the fine specimens of English Cheddar. It is a very high standard of 
 cheese, and is deserving of all the encomiums which it has received from time 
 to time. The quantity of extra Cheddar made in England is comparatively 
 small, and its peculiar excellence has been rarely reached in Amei'ican dairies. 
 Its requisites may be briefly summed up in the following points: 1. Mildness 
 and purity of flavor ; 2. Quality, which consists of mellowness or richness 
 under the tongue ; 3. Long keeping qualities ; 4. Solidity or freedom from 
 eyes or holes ; 5. An economical shape as regards shrinkage, handling and 
 cutting. 
 
 It is not within the range of a brief paper like this to go minutely into all 
 the details of Cheddar cheese-making, but rather to present points of differ- 
 
272 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 ence between their points and our own. In the first place, English dairymen 
 have a cleaner and better flavored milk than generally obtains with us. The 
 milking is performed with great nicety in tin pails. The milk rooms are 
 perfect models of neatness. They have stone floors and the joints of the 
 flagging are cemented together, so that no slops or decomposed milk can have 
 an entrance. They are situated in a cool, airy place, and the walls are of 
 stone or of hollow brick, thus rendering them cool and of even temperature. 
 Every part is well ventilated, and out of the reach of disagreeable or fetid 
 odors. The floor, the utensils and cheese aj^paratus are kept as sweet and 
 clean as the tables and crockery of the most fastidious housekeeper. 
 
 This condition of things I found universal wherever I went among the 
 dairymen— at the royal dairy, near the Queen's palace at Windsor Castle, and 
 radiating thence through all parts of England. Nothing connected with 
 cheese-making abroad struck me with more force and admiration than this 
 perfect neatness and cleanliness of the dairy. In this respect they are greatly 
 in advance of us ; and in my opinion it is one of the chief reasons why they 
 are able to obtain that fine, clean flavor which is a distinguished character- 
 istic of their choice cheese. 
 
 . There is nothing, perhaps, which indicates the progress and skill of our 
 manufacturers more than the fact that they are able to take imperfect milk 
 from the hands of patrons, manipulate it among the fetid odors of whey slops 
 and decomposed milk, and yet turn out a cheese that will compete Avith the 
 great bulk of English make. But these conditions will not and cannot pro- 
 duce the fine, delicate flavor of the best Cheddar, and it is one reason why 
 there is such a great bulk of American cheese condemned abroad as " not 
 just right in flavor." Now this putrid inoculation does not show its Avhole 
 character at first, but, like the insidious poison in the blood, increases from 
 week to week, until it puts on a distinctive feature which spoils all the good 
 material with which it comes in contact. 
 
 I saw American cheese abroad, perfect in shape and color, rich in quality, 
 splendidly manufactured, and it had a bright, handsome appearance, that 
 would have placed it on an equality with the best in the world ; but the trier 
 showed a flavor that could be plainly traced to a bad or imperfect condition 
 of the milk before manipulation. I have been extremely mortified, while 
 testing cheese abroad, to catch the taste or smell of putrid rennet and of the 
 stables. This is one point of diflTerence between the dairy practice of the two 
 nations. In the Cheddar process the milk is at a low temperature— from 
 seventy-eight to eighty degrees— using some whey with the rennet, according 
 to the condition of the milk. After coagulation is perfected, which takes 
 from forty to sixty minutes, the curd is cut in large checks, and soon after 
 they commence breaking with a wire breaker attached to a long handle. The 
 breaking is at first slow and gentle, and is continued till the curd is minutely 
 divided. This is efiected before any additional heat is applied. They claim 
 that the curd cannot be properly broken at ninety or above ninety degrees, and 
 
Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 2T3 
 
 that there is a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd by 
 breaking minutely at about seventy-five or eighty degi'ees without an increase 
 of heat during the process. This process of minute breaking in the early 
 stages of the curd appeal's to me to result in loss of butter, and this is the 
 chief reason, I think, why Cheddars have less butter in their composition than 
 our best American. That it does not result from inferior milk is shown from 
 the quantity of Avhey butter manufactured. The breaking at Mr. Haeding's 
 usually occupied a full hour. The heat is raised in scalding to one hundred 
 degrees. Their cheese apparatus is inferior to ours, and hence I think that 
 part of the process is not capable of being done so well as with us, since: heat 
 is not applied so evenly to all parts of the mass ; but from this point there is 
 a wide ditference in the treatment of the curds. When the curd has reached 
 a firm consistency, and the whey shows a slightly acid change — a change so 
 slight as to be detected only by the experienced observei' — it is immediately 
 drawn and the curd heaped up in the bottom of the tub. I am not sure but 
 this early drawing of the whey is an improvement. 
 
 When in London I had some conversation with Dr. Yoelckeii, the cele- 
 brated chemist of the Royal Agricultural Society. Among other things, he 
 said : — " One of the greatest faults of cheese-makers is in the application of 
 heat. Many use too high heat. The lower the temperature that can be used, 
 and the more evenly it can be applied, the better flavor will obtain to the 
 cheese. Another point of importance in cheese-making, and one not generally 
 understood, is in relation to the whey. It should be drawn off, got rid of just 
 as soon as possible, or as soon as consistent with the necessary operations." 
 He would draw the whey sweet. The reason he gave was, that " you can 
 never tell what matter you have or what you are dealing with in the whey. 
 It may contain taints of the worst character. You cannot well determine the 
 degree of its acidity, and hence great risks are run in steeping the curd for a 
 long time in the fluid." He would prefer to draw the whey as early as possi- 
 ble and allow the curd to undergo the proper change and arrive at maturity 
 heaped up in the bottom of the vat. 
 
 Soon after the whey is drawn and the curd heaped, it is cut across in 
 pieces a foot or more square and thrown again in a heap to facilitate drainage 
 and develope further acidity. It remains in this condition for half-an-hour, 
 the whey meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out of 
 the cheese tub and placed in the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand 
 into thin flakes and spread out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly 
 acid smell, and is slightly sour to the taste. It is left here to cool for fifteen 
 minutes, when it is turned over and left for the same length of time, or until 
 it has the peculiar mellow or flaky feel desired. It is then gathered up and 
 put to press for ten minutes, when it is taken out, ground in a curd-mill, and 
 salted at the rate of two pounds salt to the hundred weight (one hundred and 
 twelve pounds) of curd. It then goes to press, and is kept under pressure 
 two or three days. The curd, when it goes to press, has a temperature of 
 
274 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt. 
 
 from sixty to sixty-five degreees, and when it is in the sink it is preferred not 
 to get below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during 
 the various parts of the process, in cool weather, by throwing over it a thick 
 cloth. It will be seen that, the whey being disposed of at an early stage, the 
 attention of the manufacturer is to be directed only to one substance — the 
 curd. By draining the whey and expelling it under the press, and then 
 grinding, a uniform incorporation of this material is effected. The cooling 
 of the curd before going to press, and the removal of the cheese after the 
 pressure, to a cheese-room, where an even temperature is kept up, differing 
 but little from that of the cheese when taken from the press, effects a gradual 
 transformation of the parts into that compact, mellow, flaky condition which 
 is characteristic of the Cheddar, and at the same time preserves its milky or 
 nutty flavor. 
 
 Now, apparently, there is nothing difficult in the process ; but the great 
 art in this as in other methods of cheese-making, is to understand the condi- 
 tion of the milk and the state of the curds during their various manipulations. 
 These cannot be described, but can only be learned by experience. The pro- 
 cess, however, is more easily acquired than that usually practiced at the 
 factories, since the whey being got rid of, the curd is placed under better 
 control of the operator, and the pressing, grinding and salting must, in this 
 respect, make a more uniform product. We can scarcely yet appreciate the 
 part that chemistry plays in the manufacture of cheese. We use a chemical 
 agent — rennet — the nature of which even the most learned chemists do not 
 fully understand. We note the changes that this produces in the milk and 
 manipulate it in its new condition. We then employ heat, another agent, 
 and develope an acid ; then another agent, salt ; and what wonder that, in all 
 these conditions and changes, the careless and unskillful operator should fail 
 in the quality of the article which he produces or the standard which he set's 
 out to reach ? 
 
 The most profound chemists are often thwarted in their operations by 
 inexplicable conditions which, at first sight, seem easy of solution. Thus, for 
 instance, take four well-known substances, viz., grape-sugar, corn-sugar, 
 starch, and wood, each of which is made up of only three elements, carbon, 
 hydrogen, and oxygen, which it must seem easy to use so that either of these 
 substances could be converted into the others. There is very little difference, 
 it will be seen, in the composition of any of these substances, and yet how 
 widely different are they to our senses. It would seem a very simple thing 
 to convert one of these substances into another by merely adding or subtrac- 
 ting an element, yet we find that the most expert chemists experience the 
 greatest difficulty in bringing about a result which nature is constantly 
 accomplishing in her silent laboratories. The more we can reduce cheese- 
 making to a science, and confine it within certain rules, the better will be our 
 practice and the more uniform our product. It may not be advisable to adopt 
 any one system exclusively, since fine cheese can be made by various methods ; 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 275 
 
 but the study of the cheese-maker should be to seize upon a good point when- 
 ever he can find it, and combine it in his own practice. Mr. Harding believes 
 a sharp-cutting instrument in breaking the curd is injurious, and that the curd 
 should be allowed to split apart according to its natural grain ; other persons 
 in England, quite as good cheese-makers, believe in sharp-cutting imple- 
 ments ; of these I might mention Dr. Voelcker of London, and Mr. McAdam 
 of Gorsly Hill, who has not only written well on cheese-making, but has 
 done much in introducing the Cheddar system into Scotland and Cheshire. 
 Of this, however, we may assure ourselves : by no system can good cheese be 
 made unless the manufacturer studies his business, and learns, by close appli- 
 cation, by observation and experience, the changes that are going on in the 
 process with the whey and curds, and can properly manipulate them. 
 
 CHESHIRE CHEESE-MAKIJiTG. 
 
 I suppose that many of our cheese-makers would hardly suspect that a 
 really fine, delicious cheese could be made by the following process, which is 
 the one in general practice in Cheshire ; and yet some of this cheese cannot 
 be surpassed in flavor and excellence. The Cheshire mode of cheese-making 
 is somewhat peculiar, and, to an American, would be called decidedly anti- 
 quated. The night's milk is usually set in pans and added to the morning's 
 mess, when it is set with rennet at a temperature of about seventy-five 
 degrees. Often no heat is applied — the morning's milk being sufficiently 
 warm to keep the mass up to the desired temperature for setting. After the 
 rennet is applied, the coagulation is perfected in about an hour, when it is 
 carefully broken up with a wire or tin curd-cutter, of similar make to the old 
 American curd-cutter. 
 
 The breaking being perfected, and the curd becoming sufficiently firm, 
 Avithout any additional heat being applied, the whey is dipped offi The curd 
 is then lifted into a drainer or kind of sink, where the whey can drain ofl* 
 more thoroughly, and from time to time the curd is cut across and heaped up, 
 so as to facilitate a more thorough separation of the whey. It is then salted, 
 by guess, and ground in a curd-mill, when it is put into the hoop, but not 
 immediately to press. 
 
 The hoops filled with curd, are set in a warm place for a day or so, generally 
 in a kind of oven constructed for the purpose; and, on the second day are 
 put under press. Here they are kept several days, as in the Wiltshire and 
 Gloucestershire districts. The hoops have no followers. They have a bottom 
 pierced with holes, which is stationary. A strip of tin, four or five inches 
 wide, is placed about the curd on the inside of the hoop, or above it, so as to 
 raise the curd above the top of the hoop. A board is now thrown or placed 
 on top of the curd, and as the press is applied, the tin sinks down with the 
 curd until it is pressed even with the hoop. If the cheese is not found to be 
 solid enough, another hoop of less hight, is used, and the tin put around that 
 portion above the hoop, and pressed in a similar manner. Many of the 
 
276 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 presses are nothing but large square blocks of stone raised by a screw. They 
 are rude affairs. The bed-pieces on some are of stone, with a flue beneath 
 for conducting heat, in order to keep the cheese warm while pressing. The 
 milk is worked up into curd, and the utensils cleaned up every day by 
 twelve o'clock M. 
 
 It was really a matter of surprise to find that fine cheese could be made by 
 this process, where everything is done by guess, and where all the operations 
 are so different from our method. But a great deal of poor cheese is made in 
 the Cheshire dairies, and as a whole is inferior to our factory make. That 
 which is the best is as fine in flavor and quality as any cheese made, and will 
 command the highest prices. The texture of Cheshire cheese is diffei*ent 
 from the Cheddar, being what is termed " open meated," that is, loose in 
 texture without being porous. Their best cheese appears richer in butter 
 than the Cheddar. 
 
 I have merely given the outlines of the Cheshire mode of cheese making, 
 as a matter of curiosity. In my judgment there is nothing in the process 
 adapted to America, we being at least fifty years ahead in our appliances 
 and mode of manufacturing. I must say this, however, in favor of Cheshire 
 dairymen : everything connected with the dairy is kept scrupulously clean. 
 The floors, the utensils, and every part of the dairy are sweet and clean. 
 And here, perhaps, is the secret, or at least a part of it, of the fine, clean 
 flavor of their best cheese. During a portion of the time the Cheshire cheese 
 is undergoing the process of curing, the cheese is placed on straw or hay 
 upon the floor of the curing room. 
 
 APPEAEANCfi AND COMPAKATIVB MERITS OF AMERICAN CHEESE ABROAD. 
 
 Having now described the manufacture of the leading styles of English 
 cheese, it may be well to say something in regard to the appearance of Amer- 
 ican cheese in England, and what is thought of it in the foreign markets. I 
 went into neaiiy all the principal market towns in England from the south to 
 the north, and heard hundreds of people discuss the merits and faults of 
 American cheese at the storehouses, the shops and at the table. I took much 
 pains to get at the true state of feeling in the country, and I think I may 
 safely say that American cheese to-day, as a whole, has more quality and is 
 better manufactured than the bulk of English cheese. 
 
 I have given them the credit of producing a limited quantity of cheese of 
 the finest type that has ever been reached by any manufacture, but the quantity 
 is comparatively small, and when the whole bulk is considered, there is 
 nothing like the richness and uniformity of that from our factories. This is 
 not only my own opinion, but that of many of the best judges of cheese in 
 Great Britain. I have been at hotels where American cheese is always pur- 
 chased in preference to English, and I have been amused to hear Englishmen 
 contend that no such cheese could be produced in America, and nowhere else 
 except in the best dairies of England, but who were forced to give way on 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271 
 
 pointing out to them the bandage, which is an indisputable proof of American 
 manufacture. Country dealers, cotters, middlemen, and shippers, admit that 
 the highest grades of our factory cheese have more quality and are superior 
 to the general run of English make. 
 
 I have often heard dealers declare in a spirit of vexation that if the Amer- 
 icans continue to progress in the ratio of the last foiu- years, two or three 
 years more will place their cheese at the top of the market, and English make 
 must rank secondary. They say the Cheshire dairymen are " dough-heads " 
 not to try to keep pace with modern improvements. I have seen a dealer 
 look at American and English cheese side by side, and while admitting that 
 the American was in every resjDect the best, take the English at a higher 
 price, because, as he said, some of his customers had such foolish prejudices 
 that they would not try the American, and therefore could not judge of its 
 quality. A leading dealer in Manchester told me he had many times tried to 
 introduce American cheese among certain of his customers, and that they 
 would not purchase. By and by, when they sent up an order, he would slip 
 in a few of nice gi*ade factory' make, and after that the customer would be 
 eager to purchase, declaring he never cut up better cheese. 
 
 Now, this is the condition of things all over England ; there is prejudice 
 to overcome, because formerly our cheese was of bad character, and there is a 
 feeling that it is of such perishable nature that it will spoil if not immediately 
 consumed. These remarks apply to the nice grades of cheese. There is 
 another class of our cheese which comes into market that does great injury to 
 sales. It is cheese that is rich and well made but of bad flavor. This, and 
 large shipments of inferior make,the accumulated refuse from good and indif- 
 ferent lots which cannot be sold alone, are mixed up with good samples 
 and shipped abroad to clean out New York storehouses. 
 
 These lots drag on the market ; they are constantly accumulating, and 
 sales are forced, which breaks the market, besides carrying a prejudice where- 
 ever they go, against American cheese. As to the outward appearance of 
 American cheese, as I saw it abroad, it is generally good. Of course some 
 of it comes to hand soft, melted, and in wretched condition, but generally the 
 great bulk of factory make comes in store quite as bright and handsome as does 
 the English manufacture. Many of the large dealers told me they had never 
 had American cheese come to market with handsomer outward appearance 
 than this year's (1866) make. And I think in getting the comparative merits 
 of the cheese of the two nations we have often been misled and wrongly 
 informed. Great condemnation has been made of our poor cheese, all of 
 which was well deserved, but while great stress has been laid upon this, there 
 has been a studied care to conceal the merits of our best goods. This is but 
 natural. Men engage in the cheese trade to make money ; they run great 
 risks, and cannot be expected to post others up to their own disadvantage. 
 The laws of trade are " to buy cheap and sell dear ;" and so, after all, perhaps, 
 they are not so much to blame. 
 
278 Practical Dairy Husbandry, 
 
 Some of the dealers, acting in concert with, parties in New York, take 
 great pains to keep factories which make prime cheese, in ignorance of the 
 fact. The factory names are erased from the boxes, and so customers are 
 supplied with a line of cheese which they can only trace to the private brand 
 of the dealer. Some have acquired in this way an enviable reputation for 
 handling choice American cheese, and have made largely by the practice. It 
 is a great damage to the factories, since other dealers are kept ignorant of 
 the brands, and cannot enter into competition for the purchase, I know of 
 no way for this to be remedied except by branding the name of the factory 
 on the bandage. Perhaps a good way also would be to have the name of the 
 factory neatly cut in rather broad letters upon the pressing follower, so that 
 the cheese when pressed will show the name of the factory in raised letters. 
 There is no difficulty in this, and no hurt will result to the cheese. I have 
 seen samples of English cheese where elaborate figures were raised upon the 
 surface in the manner suggested, but I would not advise any " gingerbread 
 work " — nothing but plain carving. 
 
 STYLES OF CHEESE DEMANDED. 
 
 The styles of cheese demanded for the trade will depend somewhat upon 
 the market for which they are intended. In London small Cheddar shapes 
 of forty, fifty, sixty, and seventy pounds are popular, and will command an 
 extra price over cheese of large size of the same quality. The true Cheddar 
 shape is fifteen and a-half inches in diameter by twelve inches in hight, and 
 by preserving this proportion for larger or smaller cheese that style is obtained. 
 Cheddars are made varying in size from those named up to eighty and one 
 hundred pounds, but the larger are not so common. A limited number of 
 those weighing one hunded pounds would readily find sale. Those weighing 
 about seventy pounds are not objectionable, but the smaller sizes are of 
 readier sale, and often on account of their size bring better prices. It costs 
 more, however, to manufacture small cheeses, and there is greater loss in 
 shrinkage ; and this ought to enter into the account in determining the size 
 that will be most profitable. It would be well for factories to make two sizes 
 of Cheddars, regulating each somewhat in accordance with their own con- 
 venience. The Cheddar shapes are popular all over England, and therefore 
 may be regarded as best adapted as a general rule for our factories to make 
 for exportation. 
 
 There is another style called the Derby shape, which, when made of fine 
 quality, brings the highest prices. It is a small, flat cheese, fourteen to fifteen 
 inches in diameter, and two and a-half to three inches thick, and weighing 
 twenty-five to thirty pounds. If care be taken in boxing, two cheeses might 
 be put in a box, and thus the expense on that score lessened. There should 
 be two heavy scale boards between the cheese, and none but well-made, 
 substantial boxes used. There is a moderate demand for our old-fashioned 
 shaped cheese — that is, a cheese half as high as its diameter, and weighing 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 279 
 
 from sixty to eighty pounds, but it should not exceed one hundred pounds. 
 In Livei'pool a variety of styles are worked oif readily. Several of the 
 dealers there told me they had no difficulty in disposing of cheese weighing 
 one hundred and twenty pounds to one hundred and fifty pounds, providing 
 it was all right as to quality and flavor ; but I am satisfied, after going among 
 the country dealers in difierent parts of England, that preference is always 
 given to cheese of smaller size when the other qualities are satisfactory. 
 
 COLOR. 
 
 The matter of color is a question which has long occupied the attention 
 of American dairymen, and upon which very indistinct notions have been 
 entertained. This is not to be wondered at when the different markets in 
 England give preference to a variety of shades, and different dealers ask only 
 for the color of their particular market. The Londoner likes a cheese of con- 
 sidei'able color, something like the rich shade of butter made when the dande- 
 lions are in bloom. It must be clear and pure ; not lemony or dirty, or mot- 
 tled through the cheese, but a rich shade of cream that gives a pleasing effect 
 to the eye, thus serving to highten the imagination that a delicious morsel 
 is before you. 
 
 London is the grand metropolis of the world, where wealth is unbounded. 
 The best articles of food readily find a market here, and command the highest 
 prices of any in the kingdom. If they can only get the hest they are willing 
 to pay for it, and this is the reason why choice cheese never goes begging at 
 top prices. When I went through the Manchester cheese markets they told 
 me that colored cheese was a drug and did not suit that market. A very 
 extensive dealer had just returned from Liverpool disappointed in not obtain- 
 ing a supply of pale-colored cheese. In prices, quality and shaj^e, he said, 
 there was no difficulty in being suited, but his customers insisted upon an 
 uncolored article, and as that was not to be had he did not purchase. It was 
 in this man's storehouses that I saw some of the Herkimer county, New York, 
 "coarse curds," and they were commended for their texture and quality. 
 There are large quantities of pale-colored cheese made in England, and con- 
 siderable of the high-priced Cheddar has no color except that which results 
 from the natural condition of the milk. 
 
 I went down to Chippenham to see the great annatto manufacturer, Mr. 
 Nichols. His preparation bears the reputation of the best in England, and 
 I thought it might be worth while to have him send over samples, and thus 
 have an article that was approved by English dealers. Mr. Nichols was 
 willing to send out samples on my assurance that they would be properly 
 distributed ; but when I reached London I learned from the chemists a secret 
 which is worth a good many thousand dollars to American dairymen. It is, 
 that all preparations of annatto depend for their excellence, not so much upon 
 any patent for dissolving or cutting the crude annatto as upon the purity of 
 the annatto itself. All the best English liquid annatto is cut with potash, so 
 
280 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 that American dairymen can just as well make their own coloring material as 
 to send abroad at great expense for the English ai'ticle. But it is important 
 that we obtain Sl pure article, and this can only be secured by purchasing of a 
 reliable person who is a good judge of it. If you use a bad article you are 
 sure to get a bricky, uneven color, which is so objectionable, and which 
 reduces the price of cheese. 
 
 BANDAGES, BOXES, ETC. 
 
 In regard to bandaging and boxing I may remark that no cheese should 
 be made in America for shipping abroad without having a bandage upon it, 
 and without being put up in a strong box with heavy scale boards. I have 
 seen considerable quantities of English cheese in the storehouses split open at 
 the sides, a prey to skippers, and upon which losses were sustained. The 
 Cheddar dairymen put a coarse linen bandage upon their cheese during the 
 process of curing. It is brought round tight and temporarily secured. Some 
 work eyelet holes at the ends of the bandage and bring it snugly about the 
 cheese by lacing, as you would fasten a shoe upon the foot. These bandages 
 are stripped off when the cheese goes to market. 
 
 The cheeses would be better protected if they had permanent bandages, on 
 our plan, and some of the English dairymen advocate its introduction in their 
 dairies. By not bandaging something might, perhaps, occasionally be gained 
 in helping the English dealer to deceive his customers by palming off our 
 cheese as of English manufacture ; but good factories would lose their iden- 
 tity, and the loss from breakage and other sources would overbalance by far, 
 this advantage. Besides, it should be our object to make for American cheese 
 a reputation that shall stand unchallenged as the best in the world. 
 
 DEFECTS IJf AMEEICAIf CHEESE BAD FLAVOR, ETC. 
 
 We come to •consider the two leading defects in American cheese — porosity 
 and bad flavor ; and the last may be said to-day to overbalance all the other 
 defects put together, two or three times over. I need not waste time upon 
 that character of cheese known as soft, spongy, or salvy, or the poor grades 
 which come from carelessness, inefficiency, or ignorance in manufacture. 
 Good cheese-makers knoAV at once how these may be corrected, but I refer to 
 the better class of cheese made at factories. The English acknowledge that 
 the American factories stand unrivaled as sending out a cheese full of meat 
 — that is, full of butter or rich in quality. They speak in high terms of the 
 improvements that have been made in texture, firmness and solidity ; but to 
 see a cheese handsome in appearance, the meat having scarcely any objec- 
 tionable feature to the eye or finger, yet tinder the nose a disagreeable odor, 
 is what they cannot well understand. The large exportation of this poor, 
 indifferent, or bad-flavored cheese, more than anything else, breaks prices and 
 does immense damage. 
 
 The causes of bad flavor in cheese are various — insufficient and uneven 
 salting; a faulty separation of the whey from the curds before going to 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 281 
 
 press and while pressing ; putting the curds to press hot ; high heat and a 
 rapid manipulation of the curds, getting them in press before the proper 
 chemical changes have been effected ; but the chief causes of bad flavor in 
 well-manufactured cheese, as I saw it abroad, are, in my opinion, bad milk, 
 bad rennet, and bad curing of the cheese. I am satisfied that the cool, 
 even climate in England, and the excellent condition of the milk, together 
 with the uniform temperature of their curing rooms, enable them to succeed 
 where we often fail. We have a hot-bed climate to contend with, and milk is 
 often spoiled when it reaches the factory. If our dairy farmers would only 
 look upon this matter in its proper light, instead of laying all the blame of 
 bad-flavored cheese upon the manufacturer, there would be some hope of 
 improvement. They send to the factory tainted milk and demand from it a 
 perfect cheese. They impose upon the manufacturer conditions which no skill 
 has yet been able to surmount. High skill and great experience in manipu- 
 lating milk, together with favorable weather, and the putting the cheese in 
 market at the right moment, may enable the manufacturer to counteract 
 in part the faults of tainted milk ; but with intensely hot weather, and under 
 unfavorable circumstances, it is beyond his art. Bad rennet and tainted milk 
 are prominent causes of the early decay of our cheese. 
 
 We are told that American cheese will decay early. I have seen American 
 cheese in England more than a year old, perfect in flavor and in the best pres- 
 ervation, but it was not made in hot weather. The cheese made in July this 
 year, 1866, and sent to England, was all of it, more or less of bad flavor. 
 The complaint was universal, and against some of the most noted factories in 
 America. We must look upon these things from the practical side. I will not 
 deceive the dairymen of America with a fine-spun theory. We have been 
 greatly led astray in regard to this matter of flavor — led to believe that the 
 people of the Old World had discovered some wonderful process which would 
 ensure a perfect cheese under all conditions of the milk ; but I found the 
 leading feature of their success was in cleanliness and an untainted condition 
 of the milk. 
 
 It is well known that milk not divested of its animal odor, and closely 
 confined in hot weather, soon becomes putrid. Cheese manufacturers tell me 
 that milk often comes to the factory having a most fetid and sickening odor. 
 In extremely hot weather, when cows have been exercised or unduly excited 
 the milk is often of a rank odor as soon as drawn. The practice of putting 
 warm milk in tight cans and conveying it a long distance to the factory is 
 objectionable, especially in hot weather. Here is the commencement of bad 
 flavor. The good milk is inoculated with putrid matter, which shows itself 
 sooner or later, and carries with it decay like any other decomposition. Some 
 plan should be adopted for cooling the milk, or exposing it so that the animal 
 odor may pass off, especially in hot, sultry weather. I feel certain, from my 
 observations both here and abroad, that this is a leading cause of bad flavor, 
 and hence the practice of the Cheddar dairymen in getting rid of the whey 
 
282 Pe ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 as early as possible, and the exposure of the curd a long time to the atmos- 
 phere, is founded upon philosophical principles. It is important to the dairy- 
 interest of America that a reputation be maintained for producing the finest- 
 flavored and best cheese made in the world, and, under our improved system 
 of manufacture, with proper care as to the purity of milk, this will be of easy 
 accomplishment. 
 
 Again, the cheese-producing sections of the Union are being developed so 
 rapidly that competition every year must be greater and greater. Every 
 factory should now establish a reputation for "extra fine goods." They 
 should keep the best manufacturers in the country. Make it an inducement 
 for them to stay with you. High skill and experience command ample remu- 
 neration the world over. Old and established factories can aflEbrd to pay for it, 
 rather than let new districts pick ofi" their best cheese-makers. The London 
 dealers complain that there is too little probability of factories sending forward 
 a uniform brand of prime cheese year after year. They want a brand that 
 can be relied upon, and when they find such will pay an extra price for 
 it. The curing rooms ought to be arranged so that the temperature may be 
 controlled. The curing rooms of England have walls of stone or hollow 
 brick. The climate is cooler, more moist and less variable than ours. These 
 facts ought to afford suggestions in the construction of our curing-houses. 
 There is another way in which flavor is lost ; the shipment of cheese in hot 
 weather, to lie in New York until heated through and through, and then 
 stowing away in the vessel with cargoes of grain, oil-cakes, or some other 
 freight from which taints are absorbed. Much of our nice cheese is injured 
 in this. way. In Bristol, Bath, London, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester— in 
 fact, all over England, the commercial storehouses for cheese are well con- 
 structed for the purpose of preserving flavor. They have stone floors, are 
 cool and well ventilated. Cheese that comes in bad condition is often taken 
 out of the boxes, or the covers removed, and then laid upon the floor to cool. 
 
 The fine compact texture of English cheese, in my opinion, results, in a 
 great measure, from their process of expelling the whey, grinding in the curd- 
 mill, salting and pressing. I may remark that while porousness is an objec- 
 tion, if the texture is not of a honey-comh character, but will fill the trier 
 with a tolerably compact mass, dealers do not urge a reduction of price, if the 
 flavor and quality are perfect. Extreme porosity shows a defect in manufac- 
 ture, and carries with it the impression that the cheese will sooner go to 
 decay, and is therefore dangerous to handle, requiring quick sales. 
 
 THE PROSPECTS OF THE ENGLISH MARKET. 
 
 In closing, a word may be ofiered in reference to the prospect of future 
 exportation and prices. The English are a great cheese-eating people. We 
 have no conception of the extent to which this food enters into general con- 
 sumption. Those who can afford to eat a good article purchase the best, and 
 the poor take up with that which is inferior and bad. I have seen tons and 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 283 
 
 tons of the most worthless stuff, apparently fit only for the pigs, in the shops 
 and public markets, and it had a rapid sale. The cutters are extremely 
 expert. They use a thin, circular knife, like a half moon, having an upright 
 handle springing from the centre, and with this they cut the cheese upon the 
 counter. They also use a fine wire, witk handles at each end, for splitting a 
 lai'ge cheese. I have been surprised at the accuracy with which they will cut 
 the different weights. The crumbs are laid on one side, to be used for 
 balancing the scales. There is an immense demand for inferior or low-priced 
 cheese. If we could manufacture cheese so as to sell on the counter at four- 
 pence to sixpence per j^ound, I think they would take our whole product. 
 Cheese does not come upon the table with pastry, as with us, but is brought 
 on as a separate and last course. A half or a quarter of a cheese, placed upon 
 a silver dish, with a clean, white napkin under it, is set upon the table and 
 cut as desired. I think there must be a good foreign demand for American 
 cheese for some years to come. The production has been cut off in the north- 
 ern districts of England. The cattle plague has been terrible in its ravages 
 through this section. In Cheshire and the adjoining counties the losses have 
 been fearful. The Cheshire people feel very melancholy, and many of the 
 farmers are unable to pay their rents. Some of them are trying sheep- 
 farming, but with indifferent results. They have been long a dairy people 
 and understand the management of cows. I am convinced they will go back 
 to dairy farming when the cattle plague shall be effectually eradicated — and 
 that appears now to be almost accomplished — but they will hardly get estab- 
 lished again for a year or two. They will not abandon dairying till we can 
 furnish cheese so cheaply as to drive them from the mai'ket. The cost of 
 transportation and the high prices of labor, and heavy taxation, are against the 
 production of a cheap cheese on this side, at least in the older States. Holland, 
 too, enters into competition with us. She is now shipping to England 80,000,- 
 000 pounds of cheese per annum. Last year (1865) the quantity imported was 
 nearly 73,000,000 pounds. The passage can be made in a day, and the cost 
 of exportation is a mere trifiie. Their cheese is very good, but not equal to 
 ours ; but they are improving every year in quality. They make three styles 
 of cheese, which are popular among the poorer classes. The Edams and 
 Middlebaes are round, like a cannon ball, and weigh from six to twelve 
 pounds. The Goudars are a small, flat cheese, of about twenty pounds 
 weight. The agricultural laborers like Edams, as they can take a cheese into 
 the field and cut it without waste. These cheeses sell at from eight to ten 
 shillings per hundred weight, below American. There is less difference 
 between the Derby Goudar and the American, the former often selling within 
 four shillings of the price of ours. 
 
 Our futm-e successes will depend upon our making fine cheese, and getting 
 it to market at cheap rates. Something might be done in opening up new 
 markets. The English export cheese to Australia, the Cape of Good Hope, 
 Brazil, and various other points.. Something should be done by the cheese 
 
284 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 makers and shippers in the way of regulating exportations. If we could 
 give England a steady supply, without pushing forward an immense quantity 
 to clog the market, prices would be maintained, and greater profits realized. 
 
 The following table gives the iiiunber of packages of cbeese shipped from New Yorlt to 
 Liverpool, from May, 1862, to September, 1866, made up so that the comparative 
 weeidy shipments of the different years may be seen at a glance : 
 
 Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool. 
 
 Week Ending 
 
 1862. 
 
 Packages. 
 
 Packages. 
 
 1864. 
 
 Packages. 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 15. 
 22. 
 
 29. 
 
 September 5. 
 12. 
 19 
 26. 
 
 October 3 . 
 10. 
 17. 
 24 
 31. 
 
 November 7. 
 14. 
 21. 
 
 28. 
 
 December 5 
 12. 
 19. 
 26 
 
 January 
 
 16. 
 23. 
 30. 
 
 February 6. 
 13. 
 20. 
 
 27. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 2. 
 
 9. 
 16. 
 23. 
 80. 
 
 Total,. 
 
 2,120 
 
 857 
 
 1,726 
 
 1,202 
 
 1,643 
 3,280 
 6,362 
 7,756 
 
 7,107 
 13,441 
 
 6.961 
 27,483 
 
 35,195 
 
 5,485 
 37,309 
 24,449 
 
 30,315 
 19,255 
 24,442 
 14,1.30 
 
 8,146 
 24,203 
 15,038 
 18,886 
 11,558 
 
 24,. 302 
 24,196 
 13,705 
 18,840 
 
 938 
 8,450 
 8,329 
 9,843 
 
 1863. 
 12,141 
 
 3,475 
 7,296 
 14,122 
 
 886 
 9,587 
 1,295 
 1,798 
 
 929 
 4,164 
 3,428 
 1,454 
 
 4,166 
 4,348 
 11,762 
 2,742 
 3,842 
 
 5,975 
 
 19,041 
 
 54,992 
 
 102,438 
 
 88,142 
 
 69,811 
 
 73,043 
 
 27,560 
 
 37,034 
 
 13,566 
 
 9,975 
 
 26,860 
 528,427 
 
 3,692 
 1,942 
 9,364 
 4,446 
 
 3,040 
 12,174 
 
 8,744 
 17,456 
 
 22,896 
 17,032 
 29,561 
 19,153 
 
 16,316 
 22,024 
 27,378 
 13,342 
 11,650 
 
 11,068 
 16.540 
 19,816 
 18,670 
 
 18,582 
 31,104 
 21,792 
 38,714 
 26,082 
 
 22,818 
 17,706 
 10,110 
 20,115 
 
 12,485 
 12,787 
 10,268 
 5,533 
 
 1864. 
 
 5,971 
 
 11,963 
 
 2,216 
 
 2,632 
 
 7,834 
 
 6,423 
 10,834 
 
 4.813 
 16,479 
 
 5,583 
 
 770 
 
 13,202 
 
 7,558 
 
 2,987 
 13,470 
 5,072 
 2,037 
 2,886 
 
 19,444 
 
 41,414 
 
 88,642 
 
 90,710 
 
 66,094 
 
 136,274 
 
 70,749 
 
 41,073 
 
 30,616 
 
 38,549 
 
 27,113 
 
 26,432 
 677,110 
 
 2,261 
 1,539 
 1,323 
 3,268 
 
 4,374 
 6,897 
 5,232 
 10,090 
 
 24,090 
 29,886 
 47,944 
 33,103 
 
 38,170 
 20,447 
 16,669 
 22,817 
 18,211 
 
 15,396 
 14,544 
 19,457 
 24,293 
 
 15,250 
 18,805 
 12,406 
 20,653 
 25,542 
 
 24,674 
 23,700 
 15,369 
 24,921 
 
 11,794 
 8,496 
 
 11,919 
 9,901 
 
 1865. 
 
 2,975 
 
 8,623 
 
 20,081 
 
 19,156 
 
 2,685 
 
 4,851 
 16,069 
 
 5,689 
 15,658 
 
 2,718 
 
 894 
 
 13,901 
 
 2,770 
 
 2,213 
 4,412 
 4,199 
 3,745 
 976 
 
PRACTICA.L Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 285 
 
 "Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool— C(9nnSTAK:ES HADE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHEESE BEFORE 
 
 THE CURD IS SEPARATED. 
 
 The inferior character, and especially the bad flavor, of cheese OAves its 
 origin in many cases to a want of proper care in handling the milk from 
 which it has been made. Milk sometimes gets spoiled by dirty fingers before 
 it passes into the pail. If the vessels in which the milk is kept in the dairy 
 have been carelessly washed, and the milk-pails and cheese-tub have not been 
 well scrubbed, but merely been washed out, and if especially the dairy uten- 
 sils have not been scalded Avith boiling-hot water, it is vain to expect that 
 cheese of th« finest quality can be made, let the milk be ever so ricli in cream. 
 The neglect of these simple but important precautions soon manifests itself 
 in a dairy by a peculiar ferment which taints tlie whole milk, and afterwards 
 affects the flavor and consequently the quality of the cheese. Cleanliness, 
 indeed, may be said to be the first qualification of a good dairywoman. 
 
 The nature of every ferment is to produce in other matters with which it 
 comes into contact certain chemical changes depending on its own character. 
 Thus a little yeast produces in fermentable liquids large quantities of alcohol 
 and carbonic acid ; acid ferments containing acetic or lactic acid have a ten- 
 dency to generate vinegar or lactic acid in other liquids. A small piece of 
 putrefying meat in contact with a large mass of sound flesh soon spreads 
 putrefaction over the entire mass ; and other ferments act in a similar man- 
 ner. "Such ferments generally produce in other matters with which they are 
 brought into contact changes similar to those which they themselves undergo. 
 The disagreaable smell of dirty or badly cleaned milk-pails and cheese-tubs is 
 due to a peculiar ferment, which is rapidly formed, especially in warm 
 weather, when milk is left in contact with air and with the porous wood of 
 the cheese-tub and milk-pails. In the rapid process of vinegar manufacture 
 a weak alcoholic liquid is allowed to trickle through a barrel perforated all 
 over Avith holes to admit the air, and filled Avith Avood shavings. If the tem- 
 perature of the room in Avhich the vinegar casks are put up is sufiiciently high, 
 the alcohol, in trickling over these shavings Avhen in contact with abundance 
 of air, undergoes a complete transformation, and collects rapidly at the 
 bottom of the cask as vinegar. But such a change does not take place if the 
 alcoholic liquid is left for ever so long in a clean cask filled Avith such a 
 liquid. Contact Avith air, subdivision of the liquid into drops, and the pres- 
 ence of the porous wood shavings, are necessary for the transformation. 
 These casks do not at first produce vinegar as rapidly as after they have been 
 in use some time and become thoroughly soaked with vinegar ferment. And 
 this is another peculiarity of all ferments, that, under favorable circumstances, 
 they reproduce themselves from other materials in immense quantities. Thus 
 fresh and active yeast is generated in great abundance in fermenting malt 
 liquor, while the original yeast employed in brcAving is more or less decom- 
 posed and becomes what is called inactive yeast. These chemical facts, well 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 313 
 
 known to the manufacturers of vinegar and to the intelligent brewer, have a 
 direct bearing on cheese making. 
 
 At the very beginning of her operations a good dairy woman unconsciously 
 carries on a steady and constant battle with these remarkable ferments, and 
 it is very interesting to the chemist to see her proceed in the most rational 
 and 23hilosophical manner. 
 
 No milk is admitted into the cheese-tub before it has been carefully 
 strained through a cloth, lest a little bit of dead leaf or any similar matter, 
 accidentally blown into the milk in its passage from the milking place to the 
 dairy, should spoil the flavor of the cheese. No sooner has the cheese left 
 the tub than she begins to pour scalding water into it, to scrub it, and to 
 make it as clean and sweet as i^ossible. In good dairies no utensil is allowed 
 to remain for a moment dirty, but hot water and clean brushes are always 
 close at hand to scrub the pails and make them almost as white as snow. 
 The dairywoman probably knows nothing about the nature of the ferment, 
 which is rapidly formed when a little milk is left at the bottom and adhering 
 to the sides of the wooden milk pails ; she is unconscious that here, as in the 
 vinegar process, the conditions most favorable to chemical change are present, 
 and that the sugar of the milk, in contact with plenty of air and porous wood, 
 is rapidly changed into lactic acid, while at the same time a peculiar milk 
 ferment is produced ; all this may be a jjerfect mystery to her, but, never- 
 theless, guided by experience, she thoroughly avoids everything that favors 
 the production of ferment, or taint, as she calls it, by leaving no vessel 
 uncleaned, by scalding all that have been in use with boiling water, and if 
 ever so little milk be accidentally spilt on the floor of the dairy, taking 
 care that it is at once removed, and the spot where it fell washed with 
 clean water. 
 
 It is, indeed, surprising how small a quantity of ferment taints a large 
 quantity of milk. The most scrupulous cleanliness, therefore, is brought into 
 constant play by a good dairywoman, who never minds any amount of trouble 
 in scalding and scrubbing her vessels, and takes pride, as soon as possible 
 after her cheeses are safely lodged in the presses, in having the dairy look as 
 clean and tidy as the most fastidious can wish. It is a pleasure to see one 
 of these hard-working women at work, especially as such a sight is not often 
 witnessed, slovenly dairymaids being unfortunately in a majority. This 
 being the case, we should encourage the use of tin pails and tin or brass 
 cheese tubs. Wooden pails, &c., are very good in the hands of a tidy dairy- 
 maid, but not otherwise. There is much less labor in thoroughly cleaning a 
 tin or brass vessel than a wooden one, and boiling-hot Avater is not then 
 required. Wood, being a porous material, inevitably absorbs more or less of 
 the milk ; tin or brass does not. The milk thus absorbed cannot be removed 
 by simple washing. Inasmuch as all ferments are destroyed by water at the 
 temperature of 212°, it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly 
 boiling ; and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking, 
 
314 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 though they may have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty 
 when the kettle is really boiling. This remark applies to some educated as 
 well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing noise of the tea- 
 kettle accompanied by a certain amount of vapor for a sign that water is in 
 a state of ebullition ; so that if you would drink good tea you must be careful 
 to whom you trust to make it. 
 
 In some dairies of Cheshire it is customary to paint the wooden cheese 
 tubs in the interior. I confess I do not like this at all; lead paint is 
 not a very desirable thing to be used in connection with cheese; and I 
 am glad to find that the best dairy farmers are decidedly averse to this 
 proceeding. * 
 
 Milk sometimes gets tainted by the close proximity of pig-sties or water- 
 closets, or by underground drains. Not very long ago I visited a dairy in 
 Wiltshire, where every possible care was taken by the dairymaid to produce 
 good cheese ; but I noticed a peculiarly disagreeable smell in the dairy, and 
 on making inquiries I found that there was a cesspool close at hand, which 
 certainly tainted the mill:, and rendered the making of good cheese an impos- 
 sibility. In the third place, I would notice that if dairies are not well situ- 
 ated,— if they have, for instance, a south aspect, so that a proper low temper- 
 ature in summer cannot be maintained,— the milk is apt to turn sour and to 
 make sour cheese. It is important, therefore, that dairies should be built 
 with a northei'n aspect. 
 
 These are some of the circumstances that spoil the cheese even before it 
 is separated from the milk. The remedies are obvious. It is only with 
 respect to the latter point— that of milk getting sour, that I would offer a few 
 observations. If the situation of the dairy is bad, and a new dairy cannot be 
 erected, we should employ all possible means to prevent the milk from getting 
 warm. We should keep it in shallow tins or leads, or, better still, as I have 
 seen in some parts of Somersetshire, in shallow tin vessels with a double bot- 
 tom, through which cold water may be run during the warm part of the sea- 
 son. By this means we can keep the milk at a considerably lower tempera- 
 ture than we should otherwise be able to do. Having seen nitre and salt used 
 with great advantage to prevent cream from turning sour, I would further 
 suggest that they might probably be found serviceable in the same manner 
 for the keeping of milk if used in moderate quantities. Some people, how- 
 ever, maintain that milk requires to become sour before it can properly be made 
 into cheese. A great deal has been said and written with respect to the great 
 utility to the dairymen of an instrument by means of which the amount of 
 acid in sour milk might be accurately and readily determined. A careful 
 study of the action of rennet on milk, however, has led me to the conclusion 
 that the more carefully milk is prevented from getting sour, and, consequently 
 the less opportunity there is for the use of an acidometer, the more likely the 
 cheese is to turn out good. Indeed, the acidometer appears to me a useless 
 instrument— a scientific toy which can never be turned to any practical account. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 315 
 
 If by accident the milk has become sour, the fact soon manifests itself suffi- 
 ciently to the taste. An experienced dairymaid will even form a tolerably 
 good opinion of the relative proportions of acid in the milk on different days 
 and arrange her proceedings accordingly. Moreover, the knowledge of the 
 precise amount of acid in the milk does not help us much. When milk has 
 turned sour, the best thing to do is to hasten on the process of cheese-making 
 as much as possible. 
 
 II. PKACTICAL FAUI^S COMMITTED DUEING THE MAKING OF CHEESE. 
 
 1. Under the second head I would observe, first, that sufficient care is not 
 bestowed upon noticing the temjDcrature at which the milk is " set," or " run," 
 as it is called in Gloucestershire. Thermometers, indeed, are seldom in use. 
 Even where they are hung up in the dairy, they are more frequently regarded 
 as curious but useless ornaments than trustworthy guides, and therefore are 
 seldom put into requisition. In fact, most dairymaids are guided entirely by 
 their own feelings ; and as these are as variable as those of other mortals, the 
 temperature of the milk when it is " set " (that is where the rennet is added) 
 is often either too high or too low. They mostly profess to know the tem- 
 perature of the milk to a nicety, and feel almost insulted if you tell them that 
 much less reliance can be placed on the indications of ever so experienced a 
 hand than upon an instrument which contracts and expands according to a 
 fixed law, uninfluenced by the many disturbing causes to which a living body 
 is necessarily subjected. 
 
 It is really amusing to see the animosity with which some people look upon 
 the thermometer. It is true that there are not many dairies in which it may 
 not be found ; but if we took pains to ascertain in how many of these it is in 
 constant use, I believe that the proportion would not exceed five per cent. 
 This is a great pity, for a tolerably good one can now be bought or replaced 
 at a trifling cost. 
 
 I have spoken frankly but unfavorably of the acidometer. With equal 
 frankness I express my regret that the use of the thermometer is not 
 more general, as I believe it is indispensable for obtaining a uniformly 
 good product. 
 
 If the temperature of the milk when the rennet is added, is too low, the 
 curd remains too soft, and much difficulty is experienced in separating the 
 whey. If, on the other hand, the temperature is too high, the separation is 
 easily effected, but the curd becomes hard and dry. The amount of water 
 which is left in the curd when it is ready to go into the cheese-presses, to some 
 extent indicates whether a proper temperature has been employed. When 
 this has been too low, the curd will contain more than fifty per cent, of mois- 
 ture ; when too high, sometimes less than thirty-six per cent. How variable 
 is this proportion of water (chiefly due to the whey in the curd) will appear 
 from the following determinations made in the same dairy on the four follow- 
 ing days : 
 
316 
 
 Practical Dairy Husba^^dry. 
 
 amount of water in curd when ready to go into the vat. 
 
 Percentage of water iu 1st Ciieese ,^f.o 
 
 " 2d Cheese 41 4Q 
 
 " " 3d Cheese SR 20 
 
 " 4LhCheese '•■'■^•^^^^^^"''^^'^.^m 
 
 In this dairy the thermometer was not in daily use, and the heat employed 
 m makmg the fourth cheese was evidently too high, for in good Cheddar 
 when ready for sale the amount of moisture is hardly less than in this curd 
 when put into the vat. The cheese from these four specimens of curd was 
 made according to the Cheddar system. Five other specimens gave the fol- 
 lowmg proportions of water : 
 
 PERCENTAGE OP WATER IN CURD WHEN READY TO GO INTO THE VAT. 
 
 1st specimen, percentage of water 5957 
 
 2d " " « 
 
 f' „ 56.93 
 
 .„ „ 53.40 
 
 ff " " 5280 
 
 '''' " " " 50.01 
 
 These were produced according to the custom of Gloucestershire and 
 Wiltshire, at a temperature varying from 72= to 75°; but, not having taken 
 the observations myself, I am unable to speak more precisely. This much, 
 however, is quite certain, that the lower temperature at which the cheese is 
 usually made in Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, when compared with the 
 Cheddar system, fully accounts for the large proportion of water that is 
 found in curd made after the Gloucester or Wiltshire fashion. The cheese 
 made from these five curds was best at the dairy in which I found the lowest 
 proportion of water in the curd. The differences here noticed, however, are 
 due not only to the higher or lower temperature employed, but also to the 
 ti-ouble and the time bestowed in breaking up the curd. Other circumstances 
 being equal, the more thoroughly curd is broken up, and the longer time is 
 occupied in this process, the more whey will pass out, and the better the 
 cheese is likely to become. I consider fifty per cent, of moisture rather 
 under the average, and fifty-three to fifty-four per cent, a proper quantity of 
 water to be contained in the curd when it is vatted to form a thin or moder- 
 ately thick cheese. In making thick cheese, it should not have more than 
 forty-five per cent of moisture. Fifty-seven or fifty-nine and a-half per cent., 
 the proportions of water in the first and second specimens of curd, are too 
 high even for a thin cheese. 
 
 Curd being a very peculiar and delicate substance, which is greatly 
 affected by the temperature to which it is exposed, I directed some special 
 experiments to the investigation of its properties. First, I coagulated new 
 milk at 60' Fahrenheit, and found that at such a low temperature it took 
 three hours to complete the process, though the rennet was added in a very 
 large excess. The curd remained tender, and the whey could not be properly 
 separated. Milk at 65° F., on addition of rennet, curdled in two hours ; but 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 317 
 
 the curd, as before, remained tender, even after long standing. At 70° to 
 72° F. it only took from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, and the curd 
 now separated in a more compact condition. The process was more expe- 
 ditions, and the curd in better condition, when the temperature ranged from 
 80° to 84°. At 90° the rennet curdled the milk in twenty minutes, and at 
 100° F. an excess of rennet coagulated the milk in about a quarter of an 
 hour, separating the curd in a somewhat close condition. By heating the 
 curd in the whey to 130° F., I find it gets so soft that it runs like toasted 
 cheese, and becomes quite hard on cooling. The limits of temperature 
 between which curd can be improved and deteriorated in texture are there- 
 fore not very wide. The exact temperature to be adopted depends upon the 
 description of cheese that is wanted — a lower range, e. g. 72° to 75°, being 
 desirable when a thin cheese is made ; while for tinck cheese, such as Ched- 
 dar, it should vary from 80° to 84°; 80° being best adapted to warm 
 weather, and a little increase in the heat desirable in the cold season. After 
 a portion of the whey has been separated, it is advisable to scald the curd 
 and to raise the temperature of the whole contents of the cheese-tub to 95° 
 or 100°, but certainly not higher. I have seen much injury done to cheese 
 by using too high a temperature in the making. 
 
 Secondly, apart from this influence of temperature, cheeses are often 
 deteriorated by the frequently imperfect separation of the whey from the 
 curd ; by hurrying on too much the operation of breaking ; and by too great 
 an anxiety to get the curd vatted. The whey requires time to drain off 
 properly, and hence the Somersetshii-e plan is a good one — to expose the 
 curd for some time to the air, after it has been sufficiently broken and been 
 gathered again and cut in slices of moderate size. A great deal of whey 
 runs off, and the curd, moreover, is cooled, and runs less risk of heating too 
 much after it leaves the presses. 
 
 When the whey has been ill-separated from the curd, no amount of press- 
 ure will squeeze out the excesss of whey, which then causes the cheese to 
 heave and blister, and imparts to it a somewhat sweet and at the same time 
 strong taste. This taste is always found in an ill-shaped cheese, which bulges 
 out at the sides, the interior of which will be found to be full of cavities, and 
 far from uniform in texture. Many cheeses imported from America are evi- 
 dently spoiled in this way, for they are often full of holes, have a strong 
 smell, and contain too much moisture — sure indications that the whey was 
 not pi'operly sepai'ated. The sweet taste is given to the cheese by part of 
 the sugar of milk, of which a good deal is found in whey ; another portion 
 of this, on entering into fermentation, foi-ms, among other products, carbonic 
 acid gas, which, in its endeavor to escape, heaves up the semi-solid curd, and 
 causes it to blister, producing the numerous apertures of considerable size 
 which are found in badly-made cheese. If the cheese is colored with annatto, 
 the excess of whey at the same time causes a partial separation of the color- 
 ing matter, so that more color collects in some parts than in others, and the 
 
318 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 cheese assumes that unequal condition in which it is called tallowy. A uni- 
 form color and perfect shape are therefore to a certain extent indications of a 
 superior quality ; while mottled, mis-shaped cheese, almost invariably proves 
 tallowy, and in flavor, sweet when young, and very strong when older. The 
 danger of leaving too much whey in the curd is especially great in warm 
 weather, for it is then that the fermentation of the sugar of milk proceeds 
 most rapidly. 
 
 There are three precautions to be taken against an undue proportion of 
 whey in the curd : 
 
 1. Plenty of time should be allowed for the whey to drain off properly. 
 
 2. Before the rennet is added, the milk should be heated to a temperature 
 of 72° to 75° for thin, or of 80® to 84° for thick cheese. 
 
 3. The best preventive is the practice of slip-scalding, as it is called. The 
 operation, which is highly recommended by Mr. Harding, one of our best 
 Cheddar cheese-makers, and extensively practised in Somersetshire, consists 
 of heating a portion of the whey, and adding it or hot water to the curd, 
 while it is still covered with some of the whey, until the temperature of the 
 whole be raised to from 95° to 100°. This has the effect of making the curd 
 run together into a much smaller compass, and enables the dairymaid to draw 
 off the whey more perfectly and with very much less trouble than by the 
 common method. If well done, no injury, but every advantage, results from 
 this practice. The curd, when slip-scalded, settles down very readily, and 
 its closer condition implies that it does not contain so much whey as it did 
 before scalding. Hence, no skewers are required to drain off the whey from 
 cheese that has been slip-scalded, and a great deal of subsequent labor and 
 anxiety is avoided by this simple process. Slip-scalding, however, ought to 
 be carefully performed, and the hot whey or water poured slowly upon the 
 curd by one person, while another stirs up the contents of the cheese-tub, so 
 as to ensure a uniform temperature throughout. The necessity for these pre- 
 cautions will be best understood from the following explanation : When curd 
 broken up and cut into slices, is suddenly and incautiously scalded with boil- 
 ing water, the outer layer of the slices first melts and then becomes hard, 
 enveloping the interior, which remains quite soft and full of whey. This 
 hard covering acts like a waterproof wrapper, and prevents the escape of the 
 whey, however strongly the curd may be pressed afterwards; hence the 
 importance of a gradual and careful admixture of the hot whey. Better still 
 is it to employ one of Coquet's jacketed tin or brass cheese-tubs, into the 
 hollow bottom of which steam may be let in, and the curd and whey be 
 raised by degrees to the desired temperature. This utensil is to be strongly 
 recommended to all who adopt the Cheddar mode of cheese-making in their 
 dairies. 
 
 Cheese is also spoiled by breaking up the curd too rapidly and carelessly. 
 This delicate substance requires to be handled by nimble and experienced 
 fingers, and to have a great amount of patient labor bestowed upon it. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 319 
 
 Daii-ymaids, as a class, break up the curd in far too great a hurry. In conse- 
 quence of their careless treatment some portions of the curd are broken into 
 fragments so small that they pass into the Avhey when this is drawn off, while 
 others are not sufficiently broken up and remain soft. The result is, that the 
 curd is not uniform in texture, and that less cheese and of inferior quality is 
 produced than when the curd is first cut very gently into large slices, and then 
 broken up by degrees either by hand or machinery into small fragments. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF WHEY. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 92.95 
 .65 
 
 92.65 
 .68 
 
 92.60 
 .55 
 
 92.75 
 .39 
 
 1.20 
 
 .81 
 
 .96 
 
 .87 
 
 4.55 
 .65 
 
 5.28 
 .58 
 
 5.08 
 .81 
 
 5.13 
 
 .86 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 .19 
 
 .48 
 
 .13 
 .41 
 
 .15 
 .36 
 
 5.14 
 .41 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Water, 
 
 Butter (pure fatty matters), 
 
 *Nitrogeiious substances (caseine and al- } 
 
 bnmen, f 
 
 fMilk-siigar and lactic acid, 
 
 Mineral matter (ash), 
 
 *Containing nitrogen, 
 
 fContaining free lactic acid,. 
 
 92.950 
 .490 
 
 1.425 
 
 4.491 
 .644 
 
 100.000 
 
 .228 
 .120 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 "Water, 
 
 Butter (pure fatty matters), 
 
 *Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al- 
 bumen, 
 
 fMilk-sugar and lactic acid 
 
 Mineral matters (ash), 
 
 92.95 
 .29 
 
 1.01 
 
 5.08 
 .67 
 
 93.150 
 
 .546 
 
 1.056 
 
 4.662 
 
 .586 
 
 92.95 
 
 .24 
 
 .81 
 
 5.27 
 .73 
 
 93.30 
 .31 
 
 1.01 
 
 4.68 
 .70 
 
 *Containing nitrogen, 
 
 fContaining free lactic acid,. 
 
 100.00 
 
 .16 
 .54 
 
 100.000 
 
 .169 
 
 None. 
 
 100.00 
 
 .131 
 .39 
 
 100.00 
 
 .16 
 
 .41 
 
 93.25 
 .26 
 
 .91 
 
 4.70 
 
 100.00 
 
 .148 
 .41 
 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 "Water 
 
 92.85 
 .29 
 
 .93 
 
 5.03 
 .90 
 
 93.35 
 .25 
 
 .91 
 
 5.00 
 .49 
 
 92.70 
 
 .31 
 
 .96 
 5.31 
 
 .72 
 
 93.15 
 
 .14 
 
 .91 
 
 5.06 
 
 .74 
 
 93.10 
 
 Butter (pure fatty matters) 
 
 .14 
 
 *Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al- ) 
 bumen, ) 
 
 .76 
 5.31 
 
 
 .69 
 
 
 
 *Containinf nitrogen, 
 
 100.00 
 
 .151 
 .60 
 
 100.00 
 
 .148 
 .43 
 
 100.00 
 
 .15 
 .40 
 
 100.00 
 
 .148 
 .48 
 
 100.00 
 .123 
 
 fContaiuin"' free lactic acid, 
 
 .46 
 
 
 
 The whey which separates from curd that has been gently broken up is as 
 bright as Rhenish wine, provided the milk has been curdled at the proper 
 temperature by a sufficient quantity of good rennet. On the other hand, if 
 the curd has been broken up carelessly in too great a hurry, the whey is more 
 or less milky, and separates on standing, a large quantity of fine curd of the 
 choicest character, for this fine curd is very rich in butter. Thus the best 
 
320 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 part of the ciird, instead of becoming incorporated Avith the cheese, finds its 
 way into the whey leads. Be the curd, however, broken up ever so gently, 
 and tlie whey drawn off ever so carefully, the latter always throws up, on 
 standino;, some cream, which it is worth while to make into butter. But the 
 quantity of whey butter made in good dairies is very insignificant in com- 1 
 parison with that produced where less attention is paid to the breaking of the 
 curd. I know it to be a fact, that in some dairies four times as much whey 
 butter is made as in others. Where much whey butter is made the cheese is 
 seldom of first-rate quality. Believing that this is a matter of some import- 
 ance, I have visited many dairies, and repeatedly watched dairymaids break- 
 ing the curd, and noticed the gentle, patient manner in which a clever woman 
 goes to work, and the hurried, dashing proceedings of a slovenly girl. On 
 these occasions I have taken samples of the whey, and submitted them after- 
 wards to analysis. The results, as recorded in the preceding tables, show 
 how much the whey of different dairies varies in chemical composition as 
 well as in physical character. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF WHET TAKEN AT THREE DIFFERENT PERIODS. 
 
 Water, 
 
 Butler (purefal) 
 
 ■^Albviiiiiiioiis compounds,. 
 Milk-simiir and liictic acid, 
 Miueralmatters (ash), 
 
 *Containing nitrogen, 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 1st SAMPLE. 
 
 92.90 
 
 .18 
 
 .94 
 
 5.30 
 
 .68 
 
 100.00 
 .15 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 2d SAMPLE, 
 TAKEN 10 MINUTES 
 AFTER 1st SAMPLE. 
 
 92.25 
 
 .18 
 
 .94 
 
 5.03 
 
 .60 
 
 100.00 
 .15 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 3d SAMPLE, 
 TAKEN 20 MINUTES 
 APTER 1st SAMPLE. 
 
 93.55 
 
 .03 
 
 .94 
 
 4.83 
 
 .66 
 
 100.00 
 .15 
 
 When it is remembered that milk of good quality contains from three 
 and a-half to four per cent, of butter, it will be readily seen that where 
 samples of whey contain more than one-half per cent, of butter, the cheese 
 is deprived of a very considerable portion of its most valuable constituent, 
 and that its quality must therefore depend in a great measure on the care 
 with Avhich the curd is broken up and the manner in which the whey is 
 drawn off. In some samples the amount of butter is so trifling that it is not 
 considered worth the trouble to gather the cream and to make whey-butter. 
 In the dairies in which this happy state of things exists excellent cheese is 
 made. When the whey first separates from the curd it is always more or 
 less turbid, but by degrees it becomes clearer ; and if sufficient time is 
 allowed, and it is then tapped off without disturbing the curd, it runs off 
 almost as clear as water. By this means nearly the whole of the butter may 
 be retained in the cheese. In order to place this beyond a doubt, I exam- 
 ined the whey which Mr. Keevil, the inventor of the excellent cheese-making 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 321 
 
 apparatus which bears his name, allowed me to take on the occasion of a 
 visit which I recently paid to his dairy farm at Laycock, near Chippenham. 
 One sample of whey was taken at the stage in which it was usually tapped 
 off in Mr. Keevil's dairy ; the second when the whey had become a little 
 brighter, about ten minutes after the first ; and the third about twenty 
 minutes after the first. It then was as clear as water. These three samples 
 when analyzed gave results as shown on preceding page. 
 
 The first two samples are almost identical in composition j they both 
 contain very little butter, but, small as that quantity is,, it can be further 
 reduced to a mere trace by letting the whey stand a little longer. In prac- 
 tice it may for other reasons not be desirable to let the whey stand at rest 
 quite so long as the third sample stood ; and a dairymaid may congi*atulate 
 herself when she succeeds in breaking up the curd so carefully that the whey 
 contains as little butter as that made under Mr, Keevil's personal direction 
 and excellent management. 
 
 It may perhaps be supposed that the successful manner in which the 
 butter is retained in the cheese in Mr. Keevil's dairy is entirely due to the 
 use of his patent apparatus, and that by its introduction any dairymaid may 
 be enabled to make good cheese. But this supposition is not correct. 
 Keevil's apparatus, useful and good as it is in many respects, is no safe- 
 guard against carelessness. Cheese is spoiled with, as well as without it. 
 It does not supersede patience and skill, but its merit consists in saving a 
 great deal of hard labor and time. Beyond this, I may say, without dis- 
 paragement to his ingenious contrivances for breaking the curd, straining 
 off the whey, and other appliances, that it effects nothing which may not be 
 done by hand. But this saving of time and hard labor is a great merit in 
 an apparatus which can be bought at no great cost. Where from thirty to 
 forty milking cows are kept, it may be safely recommended ; in smaller 
 dairies there may not be sufficient vise for it. Having made frequent trial of 
 Keevil's apparatus, I am anxious that its true merits should be known, but 
 no unreasonable expectations be entertained. It has been said that it makes 
 more and better cheese than can be made by hand. My own opinion is, that 
 it makes neither more or less, neither better or worse cheese than a skillful 
 dairymaid will make by hand, and that a careless one is as likely to spoil 
 her cheese when using this apparatus as when making it according to her 
 own fashion. 
 
 Some of the very best and some of the very worst of cheeses which I 
 have examined were made in dairies where Keevil's apparatus is in daily 
 use. The superior character of the one cheese is as little a proof of the 
 merits of Keevil's apparatus as is the bad quality of the other an evidence 
 against it. 
 
 Again, I may point to the composition of the whey analyses marked No. 
 2, No. 3, No. 8 and No. 14, in the preceding large table, and to the three 
 whey analyses to which I have just referred : 
 21 
 
322 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 No. 3, containing .68 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keeytl's 
 apparatus. 
 
 No. 16, containing .18 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's 
 apparatus. 
 
 No. 18, containing .03 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's 
 apparatus. 
 
 Here, then, we have two samples of whey very poor in butter, and one 
 sample containing more butter than any of the seventeen which I analyzed. 
 On the other hand : 
 
 No. 3, containing .55 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. 
 No. 8, containing .24 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. 
 No. 14, containing .14 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. 
 
 Here, again, we have two well-separated samples of whey, and one rich in 
 butter, all three being made from curd broken by hand. 
 
 Passing on from the loss of butter to that of the curd itself, I find that, 
 although no doubt some fine curd is lost when the whey is very milky in 
 appearance, yet as a rule this loss is small in most dairies. Indeed, my 
 analyses prove positively that whey seldom contains much caseine or curd 
 which might be retained by ever so careful filti-ation. I have filtered whey 
 from good milk through the finest blotting paper, and obtained it as bright 
 as crystal. On heating the perfectly clear whey to the boiling point, how- 
 ever, a considerable quantity of a white, flaky substance, resembling in every 
 respect albumen, or the white of egg, made its appearance. Collected on a 
 filter, washed with distilled water, dried at 212° F., and weighed, this albu- 
 minous or curd-like substance amounted on the average to about .9 or nearly 
 one per cent, in good milk ; in very rich milk there may be a little more, in 
 poor a little less. This albuminous matter is contained in the whey in 
 a state of perfect solution, and differs from caseine or curd in not being 
 coagulated by rennet. I have called it an albuminous matter, because, 
 like albumen, it separates in flakes from the whey at the temperature of 
 boiling watei-. Any one may prove the existence of this substance, which, 
 however bright the whey may be, it invariably deposits in abundance at the 
 boiling point. 
 
 Assuming, then, .9 to be the average proportion of this albuminous mat- 
 ter in whey, and deducting this proportion from the total amount of nitro- 
 genized substances in the eighteen samples of whey, we obtain the amount 
 of curd held in mechanical suspension. Thus we get for 
 
 No. 1 whey, .30 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 2, 4, 8 and 15 whey, none. 
 
 No. 3 and 13 whey, .06 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 5 whey, .525 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 6 and 9 whey, .11 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 7 whey, .156 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 10, 12 and 14 whey .01 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 11 whey, .03 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 No. 16, 17 and 18 whey, .04 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. • 323 
 
 Thus only in one sample out of eighteen there was about one-half jDer 
 cent, of card held in mechanical suspension, and one sample containing three- 
 tenths per cent., all the other samples, practically speaking, containing no 
 suspended curd. Thus it is not so much the curd as the butter which is lost 
 when whey is badly separated from the curd. 
 
 4. When the curd has become sufficiently consolidated and is ready to be 
 vatted, it is crumbled down into small fragments. For this operation every 
 dairy should be furnished with a curd mill, a simple and inexpensive contri- 
 vance, which saves much labor, and produces, generally speaking, a more 
 uniform material than the hand. 
 
 5. Cheese is also spoiled occasionally by badly made rennet, that is, ren- 
 net which is either too weak or has a disagreeable smell. In the one case 
 the curd does not separate completely, and that which separates remains 
 tender ; in the other the milk is tainted, and the flavor of the cheese is aifected. 
 
 The rennet used in different parts of England varies exceedingly in 
 strength and in flavor. Even in the same locality the usage differs on adja- 
 cent farms. Although I have in my possession some dozens of rennet recipes, 
 which were given to me by experienced dairymaids, each as the very best, I 
 shall not give a single recipe for making rennet, as my object is rather to 
 elucidate chemical principles than to prescribe details ; and also because, as 
 long as the smell of the rennet is fresh, and a sufficient quantity is used, it 
 matters little, in ray opinion, how it is made. 
 
 The ordinary practice in Cheshire is to make rennet fresh CA^ery morn- 
 ing by taking a small bit of dried skin, infusing it in water, and using 
 this infusion for one day's making. In Gloucestershire and Wiltshire a 
 supply is made for the pickled veils, which lasts for two or three months. 
 Generally the rennet is made in these counties twice in the season. I have 
 had a good deal of discussion with practical men resjDCcting the comparative 
 merits of these two methods. The Cheshire farmers almost unanimously 
 object that the rennet does not keep well when made in any quantity of 
 pickled veils. This, however, is quite a mistake. I have in my possession 
 some rennet which is as nicely flavored now as it was some nine months ago, 
 when it was made. It has, of course, a peculiar animal odor, but nothing 
 approaching a putrid smell. The spices which are used in some localities, 
 such as cloves and lemons, tend very much to keep the rennet in a good con- 
 dition and give it an agreeable flavor. The objection, then, of the Cheshire 
 farmers, that rennet, when a supply is made, does not keep, and spoils the 
 flavor of cheese, is certainly untenable. I am much inclined to consider the 
 practice of Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, of making a considerable supply 
 of rennet, a good one ; for, when once the strength of the rennet has been 
 ascertained, it is merely necessary to take the proper quantity, one or two 
 cupfuls, to produce the desired effect with certainty ; whereas, when the 
 rennet is made day by day, there is not the same certainty of obtaining an 
 infusion of imifoi'm strensrth. 
 
324 , Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Scientific and practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is 
 held in solution by a small quantity of alkali ; that when in warm weather 
 milk curdles, lactic acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from 
 a portion of the sugar of milk ; and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali 
 which holds the caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk. 
 Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the 
 sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates spon- 
 taneously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of 
 rennet, in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the 
 removal of the free alkali by lactic acid. 
 
 This theory, however, is not quite consistent with facts. The caseine in 
 milk cannot be said to be held in solution by free alkali ; for, although it is 
 true that milk often has a slightly alkaline reaction, it is likewise a fact that 
 sometimes perfectly fresh milk is slightly acid. We might as well say, there- 
 fore, that the caseine is held in solution by a little free acid, as by free alkali. 
 !N'ewly drawn milk, again, is often perfectly neutral ; but, whether milk be 
 neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution, 
 which cannot, therefore, depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that 
 milk, when it turns sour, curdles very readily. It is not the fact that a good 
 deal of acid curdles milk which I dispute, but the assumption that the caseine 
 in milk is held in solution by free alkali. The action of rennet upon milk, 
 then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have 
 treated of this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as fer- 
 ments, rennet, it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free 
 lactic acid, I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated, 
 and not simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh 
 and neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is per- 
 fectly neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded 
 in separating the curd by rennet ; and, what is more, obtained a whey which 
 had an alkaline reaction. 
 
 What may be the precise mode in which rennet acts upon milk, I do not 
 presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui generis, which as yet is 
 only known by its eflects. We at present are even unacquainted with the 
 precise chemical character and the composition of the active principle in 
 rennet, and have not even a name for it. Finding the effect of rennet upon 
 milk to be diffei'ent from that which I expected, I made a number of experi- 
 ments, which may here find a place. 
 
 1st Experiment. — To a pint of new milk, slightly alkaline to test-paper, 
 and of 60° Fahr., one-fourth ounce of rennet was added. 
 
 Result — No coagulation after three hours. 
 
 Another quarter ounce of the same rennet was then added. 
 
 Mesidt — The milk coagulated one hour after this addition, but the caseine 
 was by no means well separated, and remained tender and too spongy, even 
 after twenty-four hours. The whey was slightly alkaline. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 325 
 
 2d Exp.— 1^0 another pint of milk, neutral to test-paper, I added one-half 
 ounce of the same rennet. The temperature of the milk was 60", as before. 
 
 Hesult — The curd separated (though imperfectly) after three hours. The 
 whey was neutral. 
 
 N. B. — It will be seen that the curd separated more readily from milk 
 which was neutral, than from that which was alkaline. 
 
 3£? Exp. — To two pints of skimmed milk (twenty-four hours old), and 
 very slightly acid, I added one-half ounce of rennet. Temperature of milk 
 59° Fahr. 
 
 Mesult — Curd separated in two hours ; reaction of whey the same as that 
 of the milk. 
 
 Thus, if the milk is slightly sour, rennet separates the curd more readily 
 than when it is neutral, though the temperature may be low. 
 
 Uh Exp. — To one pint of milk, slightly alkaline, and heated to 82" Fahr., 
 one-fourth ounce of rennet was added. 
 
 Mesult — The milk coagulated in twenty minutes ; the whey was slightly 
 alkaline. 
 
 Mh Exp. — To one pint of milk heated to 100°, and neutral on reaction, 
 one-half ounce o£ rennet was added. 
 
 Mesult — Milk coagulated in one-quarter of an hour ; whey perfectly 
 neutral. 
 
 Qth Exp. — Added to one pint of milk one-fourth ounce of rennet. The 
 tempex'ature of milk was 110° ; its reaction alkaline. 
 
 Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey was alkaline. 
 
 ^th Exp. — Milk was raised to 120° Fahr., and one-fourth ounce of rennet 
 added to one pint of milk, which was slightly alkaline to test-paper, 
 
 Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey had the same reaction 
 as the milk. 
 
 ^th Exp. — One pint of milk was heated to 130°, and one-fourth ounce of 
 rennet added. 
 
 Mesult — Curd separated in twenty minutes ; whey had the same reaction 
 as milk. 
 
 The experiment was repeated, and found correct. 
 
 It will thus appear that too high a temperature is not so favorable to the 
 coagulation of the milk as a less elevated one. The separation, which at 
 120° took place in ten minutes, at 130° occupied twenty minutes. 
 
 9^A Exp. — Heated one pint of milk to 150°, added one-fourth ounce of 
 rennet. 
 
 Mesult — Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours. 
 
 lO^A Exp. — Heated milk to 140°, added rennet. 
 
 Mesult — No coagulation. 
 
 Wth Exp. — Heated milk to 135°, added rennet. 
 
326 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Mesuli—No coagulation took place, even after three hours. I then added 
 another quarter ounce ; the milk by this time had cooled down, and the fresh, 
 quantity of rennet caused the separation of curd in less than twenty minutes. 
 
 Thus, at 120°, milk coagulates most readily; at 130% it takes a some- 
 what longer tmie ; and at 135°, and upwards, it ceases to coagulate. 
 
 12^A Mcp.-Reated one pint of milk to boiling point, add'ed one-fourth 
 ounce ot rennet. 
 
 Hesuli—No curd had separated when examined, after twenty-four hours' 
 standing. 
 
 13th mp.-Heated another pint of milk to boiling point, and added one- 
 fourth ounce of rennet. 
 
 Hesiclt—Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours. I then added a 
 little more fresh rennet to the cooled milk, and again gently heated it, when 
 the curd separated in less than one-quarter of an hour. 
 
 Thus the temperature of boiling water, and even a much lower heat 
 destroys the action of the rennet, but does not so permanently chano-e the 
 caserne of milk that it cannot be separated. "^ 
 
 The whey in the last experiment, again, was neutral, like the milk. 
 
 Uth Exp.— Ho one pint of fresh milk I added ten grains .of carbonate of 
 potash, raised the temperature to 88° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce 
 of rennet. 
 
 Result-Qxxxd separated in half an hour. The milk and the whey were 
 strongly alkaline. After twenty-four hours the whey was neutral, and then 
 it became acid by degrees. 
 
 l^thExp.-Ho one pint of milk I added twenty grains of carbonate of 
 potash, heated to 90° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce of rennet 
 
 Remlt-T\^ curd separated in half an hour, but not so perfectly as in the 
 precedmg experiment, and in a softer condition. The whey was more milky 
 m appearance, and strongly alkaline. Examined after twenty-four hours' 
 standing, it was found to be neutral ; after a lapse of two days, it was acid. 
 
 Even a considerable quantity of an alkali, therefore, does not prevent the 
 coagulation of milk by rennet. 
 
 \Uh Bxjx—To another pint of milk I added an unweighed quantity of 
 potash heated to 84°, and then one-fourth ounce of rennet. 
 
 Hesult—No coagulation took place. 
 
 Much more alkali was used in this experiment than in the two preceding • 
 an excess of alkali, therefore, prevents the separation of curd by rennet. ' 
 
 11th Exp.— To some milk, sufficient tartaric acid was added to make it 
 distinctly acid. 
 
 Result— -No coagulation took place in the cold. On the application of 
 heat, the milk coagulated but imperfectly. 
 
 mh Exp.— To another portion of milk I added a good deal of tartaric acid. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 327 
 
 Besult—Ihe, milk coagulated after some time, but imperfectly ; on raising 
 the temperature, more curd fell down. 
 
 In order to precipitate the caseine from milk by tartaric acid, it is thus 
 necessary to add a very large excess of acid, and at the same time to raise 
 the temperature of the milk. 
 
 These experiments prove thus — 
 a. — ^That the action of rennet on milk is not the same as that of an acid, inas- 
 much as rennet coagulates new milk without turning it sour in the 
 least degree. 
 h. — ^That rennet can precipitate curd from milk, even when purposely made 
 
 alkaline. 
 c. — That the whey of milk, when produced from perfectly sweet or neutral 
 milk, is at first perfectly sweet or neutral, but rapidly turns sour. If 
 made from milk having an alkaline reaction, the whey at first is alka- 
 line ; when from milk slightly acid, the whey likewise is slightly acid. 
 d. — That rennet ceases to coagulate milk at about 135°, and upwards. 
 e. — That the action of rennet upon milk is more energetic when the milk is 
 slightly acid. This, perhaps, is the reason why some persons recom- 
 mend putting some sour whey into the milk before or after adding 
 the rennet. 
 /. — That an excess of alkali prevents the coagulation of milk by rennet. 
 g. — That an excess of acid coagulates milk, but not perfectly in the cold. 
 h. — That a moderate amount of acid does not coagulate milk in the cold, and 
 imperfectly at an elevated temperature. 
 6. Cheese, again, is sometimes spoiled when bad annatto is employed as 
 a coloring matter. Annatto at the best is a nasty, disagreeable smelling sub- 
 stance ; it would be well if it were banished altogether from the dairy. 
 But, so long as a good many people will prefer colored to uncolored cheese, 
 annatto will be employed for the purpose of imparting a more or less deep 
 yellow color. 
 
 The annatto of commerce is derived from the Orelan tree {Bixa orellana). 
 The seeds and pulp of this tree appear to contain two coloring matters ; one, 
 in a pure state, is orange-red, and is called bixin ; the other is yellow, and 
 called orellin. These coloring matters are insoluble in water, but dissolve 
 readily in alkalies, and also in fixed oils and fats. Solid annatto, the annatto 
 cake of commerce, is a preparation, which contains, besides the pure coloring 
 matter, a great deal of potash or soda, carbonate of lime, pipe clay, earthy 
 matters and rubbish of various kinds. Soap, train-oil and other disagreeable 
 smelling and tasting matters are often used in preparing annatto cake. 
 Hence the annatto of commerce is often a most nauseous material, which, 
 when put into the cheese tub, is apt to give the cheese a bad taste and an 
 unsightly color. Far superior to this annatto, and morq handy in its appli- 
 cation, is the liquid anflatto, which is mainly an alkaline solution of the pure 
 coloring matter of the JBixa orellana. An excellent solution of that descrip- 
 
328 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 tion is manufactured by Mr. Nichols of Chipj)enham, which is perfectly 
 clear, has a bright yellow color, and is free from any of the obnoxious and 
 disagreeable substances which are frequently mixed up with annatto cake, 
 
 7. In the next place Iicould observe that cheese is occasionally spoiled if 
 too much salt is used in curing it. Salt is a powerful antiseptic, that is it 
 prevents fermentation ; hence we use it for pickling beef and hams. A cer- 
 tain amount of salt is necessary, not so much for giving a saline taste, as for 
 keeping in check the fermentation to which cheese, like other animal matters, 
 is liable. If no salt were used the cheese would putrefy, and acquire a very 
 strong taste and smell, at least when made in the ordinary way. When an 
 extra quantity of cream is put to the milk, it is not necessary, or even desi- 
 rable, to salt the curd much ; we might even do without salt altogether, for 
 the large amount of fat (butter) in extra rich cheeses, such as Stilton or 
 Cream Cheddar, sufficiently preserves the caseine. 
 
 If salt is employed in excess, the cheese does not ripen properly, or 
 acquire that fine flavor, which depends upon the fermentation proceeding in 
 a sufficiently active degree. Too much salt, by checking this chemical 
 activity, is thus injurious to the proper ripening of cheese. The saline taste 
 of old cheese, as already explained, is not due so much to the common salt 
 used in its preparation, as to certain amraoniacal salts which are formed 
 during the ripening process. It sounds strange, but it is nevertheless the 
 case, that over-salted cheeses do not taste nearly so saline when kept for six 
 or eight months, as under-salted cheeses kept equally long. If the milk is 
 very rich, somewhat less salt should be used than when it is poor. On no 
 account, however, should more than two pounds of salt be used per hundred 
 weight of cheese ; one and a-half pounds in most cases is quite enough, and 
 even one pound will be found a sufficient quantity when rich cheeses are made. 
 
 8. Lastly, an inferior quality of cheese is sometimes produced when it is 
 imperfectly salted; that is, when the salt is not properly applied to the 
 cheese. I have often seen the salt put upon the curd in rough bits ; more 
 often proper care is not taken to mix the curd with the salt, and the cheese 
 becomes unequally salted. The consequence is that some particles of the 
 cheese ferment too much, others too little, and that the portions which are 
 too much salted do not stick well together, and acquire a dry and crumbly 
 texture. The salt used in dairies should be of the finest description, and 
 should be sifted evenly through a fine sieve on the curd, after the latter has 
 been passed through the curd-mill, and thinly spread in shallow leads to cool. 
 This plan of spreading the salt saves a good deal of labor, and is greatly to 
 be preferred to the system of pickling the cheese in brine after it is made, or 
 of rubbing in salt. When salt is applied, either in solution or by rubbing it 
 into the cheese after it has been in the presses, the outside is apt to get hard, 
 and close up too much. It is, of course, desirable to get a good and firm 
 coat, but, at the same time, the pores should not be tf o much closed, so that 
 the emanations which proceed from the cheese cannot escape. Thin cheeses 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 329 
 
 may be salted after they have been in the press ; but, in making thick cheeses, 
 it is far better to salt the curd before it is put into the vat. 
 
 A rather novel way of salting cheese has lately been made the subject of 
 experiments in America. As the following communication to the pages of 
 the Country Gentleman and Cultivator, an American agricultural paper, may 
 have some interest, I take the liberty of inserting it here : 
 
 IMPORTANT EXPERIMENT IN CHEESE-MAKING. 
 
 " The dairy season is about commencing again, and I desire the privilege 
 of a corner in your paper, to give the result of extended experiments in 
 cheese-making. In the first place I shall take it for granted that the Avhole 
 process up to salting is well understood, for it is of salting that I wish to 
 speak in this article. 
 
 "In June, 1859, I finished a few cheeses after the following manner: 
 When my curd was scalded (I practice thorough scalding), I threw into the 
 vat about four quarts of salt — sometimes only three — for a cheese of fifty to 
 sixty pounds, stirring thoroughly. Those which went into the hoop before 
 being well cooled ofi", acted badly ; but when I took time and means to cool 
 sufficiently, the cheeses were very fine. On the whole, I did not like the 
 process and abandoned it. 
 
 " In 1860 I commenced again, changing the programme as follows : After 
 scalding I drew off the whey, leaving just enough to float the curd, and 
 began to cool off, hurrying the process by pumping in cold water and chang- 
 ing often. Then, to a curd of say sixty pounds, a little more or less, I threw 
 in sometimes three and sometimes four quarts of salt, and stirred till well 
 cooled — then drew off the salted whey, and threw it on the compost heap — 
 put the curd to press, and pressed rapidly and thoroughly. And now for 
 the result. I lost from my whey tub about three pails of whey and some 
 salt. I gained in this, that my dripping tub under the press never had a 
 particle of cream rise upon it, and in having a cheese that gave me no trouble 
 in curing, and that when sent to market sold for the very highest price, and 
 called forth the unqualified approbation of dealers as being perfect in all 
 respects — fine flavored, very solid (not porous), and very fat. 
 
 " And now let me talk to the experience of dairymen. In the old-fash- 
 ioned way of breaking up and salting a curd, more or less bruising of the 
 cui'd to break the lumps, in order to get the salt evenly distributed, is neces- 
 sary ; and when put to press the white whey runs off freely, or in other 
 words the cream runs off, and of course with it the richness of the cheese, 
 and more or less of its weight ; and if the curd is very dry you are liable to 
 get your cheese too high salted, if not, the reverse. 
 
 " My experiments clearly prove that a curd salted in whey will retain no 
 more salt than it needs, and that as every particle comes in contact with the 
 brine through the operation of stirring, no bruising is necessary. Whether 
 this is the philosophy of it or not, I am not chemist enough to determine, 
 
330 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 but I do know that if there is no discharge of white whey, or cream, it is 
 retained in the cheese, adding to it both richness and weight as a remunera- 
 tion for the extra salt and the wasted whey." 
 
 III. PKACTICAL EEEOES MADE IK KEEPING CHEESE. 
 
 The following are some of the practical mistakes that are occasionally 
 made after the cheese has left the presses and is j^laced in the store-rooms. 
 
 1. Cheese is deteriorated in quality when it is placed in damp or in 
 badly ventilated rooms. 
 
 When beef or mutton is kept for a day or two in a damp and badly venti- 
 lated i^lace, the meat soon acquires a disagreeable, cellar-like taste. The 
 same is the case with cheese. Kept in a damp place, it also becomes moldy, 
 and generates abundance of mites. 
 
 In some parts of Cheshire it is a common practice to keep cheese in dark 
 rooms, carefully shutting out the free access of air. This is an objectionable 
 jDractice, which no doubt has its origin in the desire to maintain in the store- 
 rooms a somewhat elevated temperature, and to avoid draughts of cold air. 
 
 It is quite true that draughts are injurious to newly-made cheese, and a 
 somewhat elevated temperature decidedly favors its ripening and the devel- 
 opment of a fine flavor ; but the one may be avoided, and the other can be 
 maintained quite well, at the same time that due provision is made for the 
 admission and circulation of fresh air. 
 
 During the first stage of ripening, a good deal of water and other emana-- 
 tions escape ftom the cheeses, which, if not allowed freely to pass away, make 
 the air damp and injure the flavor of the cheeses. "Why cheese should be 
 kept in dark rooms is to me a mystery. 
 
 2. Cheese newly made is spoiled hy not turning it frequently enough. 
 Thick cheeses especially require to be frequently turned, in order that the 
 
 water which is given oiF from the interior warmer parts of the cheese may 
 freely escape, and all sides be exposed at short intervals to the air. If this 
 is neglected, that part which is in close contact with the board on which it 
 rests becomes smeary and rots, and by degrees the whole cheese is spoiled. 
 The boards, we need hardly say, should be wiped with a dry cloth from time 
 to time as well as the cheese. 
 
 3, Cheese does not ripen properly, and therefore remains deficient in flavor^ 
 if the temperature of the cheese-room is too low. 
 
 The ripening of cheese is essentially a process of fermentation, which may 
 be accelerated or depressed by a proper or by too low a temperature. Any 
 temperature under 60° is unfavorable, and should therefore be avoided. 
 
 4. Cheese is also spoiled if the temperature of the cheese-room is too high. 
 
 If the temperature of the room rises above 75°, the fermentation becomes 
 so active that a cheese is apt to bulge out at the sides, and to lose the uniform 
 and close texture which characterises it when good. 
 
 .5. Lastly, cheese is sometimes spoiled if the temperature of the cheese- 
 room varied tod much at different times. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 331 
 
 A steady fermentation, which is essential to the proper ripening of the 
 cheese, can only be maintained in a room which is not subject to great fluc- 
 tuations in temperature. The more uniformly, therefore, the cheese-room is 
 heated, the more readily cheese can be brought into the market, and the finer 
 the quality will be. For this reason hot- water pipes, which give a very steady, 
 gentle, and lasting lieat, are greatly to be preferred to stoves in cheese-rooms ; 
 with the latter it is almost impossible to maintain an equable temperature. 
 The cheeses nearest to the stove, again, are apt to get too much and those 
 farthest ofi" not enough, heat. Constant attention is moreover required; and 
 firing in the room is always productive of more or less dust and dirt. These 
 inconveniences are entirely avoided by the system of heating by hot-water 
 pipes. 
 
 In every dairy hot water is in constant request ; the same boiler which 
 heats the water for cleaning the dairy utensils may be conveniently connected 
 with iron pipes that pass in and round the cheese-room. Beyond the first cost 
 of the iron pipes hardly any extra expense in fuel is thus incurred. An extra 
 pipe likewise may be introduced which connects the boiler with Coquet's 
 apparatus, and by this means the curd in the tub may be scalded much more 
 conveniently and regularly than by pouring hot whey or water over it. I 
 have not made a sufficient number of observations to say definitely which is 
 the best temperature to be maintained in a cheese-room; but in my judge- 
 ment a uniform temperature of 70° to 75° is highly favorable to the ripen- 
 ing process. 
 
 The proper regulation of the temperature of the cheese-room, and the 
 general plan of heating by hot water, I believe, is one of the greatest of our 
 recent improvements. 
 
 These are some of the practical mistakes which I have noticed in our 
 dairies. I have endeavored to assign reasons why they must be so regarded, 
 and have ventured to point out the appropriate remedies, many of which, 
 however, suggest themselves naturally to any intelligent observer. My 
 object has been, not so much to write a treatise on cheese-making, as to 
 enable those interested in dairy operations to read the various treatises and 
 pamphlets on cheese-making with profit, so as to be able to sift the recom- 
 mendations which are worth imitating from the heap of empirical rubbish 
 under which they are too often buried. No directions, however carefully 
 given, can ever be of much service in an art which, like cheese-making, does 
 not so much presuppose a great amount of knowledge as practical experience, 
 dexterity and cleanly habits. Neither skill in manipulation, nor habits of 
 cleanliness, nor experience can be acquired by reading. A good or a sensible 
 pamphlet, no doubt, may be read with benefit even by an experienced hand ; 
 but the very best of treatises, in the nature of things, cannot teach a person 
 who wants a rule or a receipt for everything, how to make a good cheese. A 
 good cookery book, no doubt, is a useful literary production, but the best 
 cookery-book is incapable of teaching an inexperienced person the art of 
 
332 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 making light and wholesome pie-crust. It is the same with cheese-making 
 as with cookery, as we shall do well to bear in mind. 
 
 Lest these observations on publications on cheese-making should seem to 
 disparage too much the merits of the different authors, I may state distinctly 
 that a few papers contain valuable and plain directions for making good 
 cheese ; but I am bound at the same time to confess that the greater number, 
 and more especially most of the prize essays on cheese-making which I have 
 read, in my humble opinion, are next to useless to the dairy-farmer, inasmuch 
 as they generally conta.in nothing good but what every dairy-farmer has long 
 known ever since he began making cheese — and a great deal besides, which, 
 though it may appear novel, ingenious or feasible, will at once be condemned 
 by any man of sound judgement as visionary and utterly impracticable. 
 
 There are many topics intimately connected with the manufacture of 
 cheese on which I have not touched at all, such as the influence of the food on 
 the quantity and quanlity of milk, an important subject as yet hardly investi- 
 gated at all. Again, the influence of the race on the production of milk 
 deserves to be carefully studied, besides various other points on which prac- 
 tical men may wish to obtain trustworthy information. My passing them 
 over in silence in the present paper will not, I trust, be taken as an indication 
 of want of acquaintance with the real, practical wants of the dairy-farmer. 
 
 Hitherto scarcely anything directly bearing on dairy-practice has been 
 done by scientific men ; the whole investigation has, therefore, engaged my 
 liveliest attention, and brought to light some unexpected chemical facts which 
 have been recorded in the preceding pages. Others I hope to lay before 
 the readers of the Journal of the Royal Agricultui;al Society when the 
 researches still in hand shall be in a sufficiently advanced state to warrant 
 their publication. 
 
 I 
 
VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS. 
 
 On Pasture Farms, where the milk is not all sold as new milk, nor used 
 for fattening calves, the question arises, by what other means it may most 
 profitably be converted into marketable produce, and there is still a choice 
 between four different modes of proceeding : 
 
 1. The whole milk may be made into cheese. 
 
 2. The cream may be skimmed from part of the milk for making butter, 
 and the skimmed milk added to new milk, and then made into cheese. 
 
 3. The whole of the milk may be skimmed and made into skim-milk 
 cheese, and the cream into butter. 
 
 4. The whole milk may be skimmed, and made into skim-milk cheese ; the 
 cream from the skimmed milk be added to new milk, and made into extra 
 rich cheese. 
 
 The question is, which of these four modes gives the best money return. 
 Such a purely practical question can be tested satisfactorily in one way only, 
 that is by actual trials. I therefore gladly availed myself of the kindness of 
 my friend Mr. Thomas Pboctor, who most liberally placed his dairy at my 
 command, that I might institute a series of experiments calculated to further 
 the solution of this inquiry. I am, likewise, much indebted to Mr. Tanner 
 for the practical assistance which he rendered me by superintending the experi- 
 ments which were made on a sufficiently large scale to furnish reliable data. 
 
 For each experimental cheese an equal quantity of milk was used, consist- 
 ing of one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk and one hundred and 
 thirty quarts of morning milk. The first experimental cheese was made on 
 the 11th of August, 1860; the others on the following days. 
 
 In Mr. Pkoctor's dairy at Wall's Court (now in the occupation of Mr. 
 Richard Stratton) cheese is made in the Cheddar fashion. In making the 
 different experimental cheeses, the same general process was adopted, being 
 that usually employed in this dairy. 
 
 Immediately after the morning milking, the evening and morning milks 
 were put together into a Cockney's tin tub, having a jacketed bottom for the 
 admission of steam or cold water. 
 
 The temperature of the whole was slowly raised to 80®, by admitting 
 steam into the jacketed bottom. Ko annatto was used for coloring ; after the 
 
334 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 addition of the necessary quantity of rennet, the tub was covered with a 
 cloth and left for an hour. Rennet, it may be remarked, when properly 
 prepared and added in sufficient quantity, should perfectly coagulate milk at 
 80" in from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. If the milk fail to be 
 coagulated within the hour, the curd produced will be too tender, and not 
 ea^ly separated from the whey without loss of butter and injury to the 
 quality of the cheese. These results invariably follow when the rennet is not 
 sufficiently strong, or too little of it is employed. 
 
 On the other hand, if the curd is completely separated from milk at 80° 
 Fahrenheit in twenty to twenty-five minutes, the cheese produced is apt to be 
 sour or hard. An excess of rennet always has the effect of separating the 
 curd from the milk too rapidly, and in a hard condition. 
 
 As much depends upon the strength of the rennet, it is useful in daily 
 practice to prepare a large quantity at a time, and to ascertain by a few trials 
 the proper amount for mixing with a given quantity of milk. In experi- 
 mental trials, it is absolutely indispensable to know the strength of the 
 rennet, and to emj^loy the same rennet in all the trials. At Wall's Court we 
 took special care to fulfil these conditions. 
 
 Our plan of proceeding was as follows :— At about half-past eight o'clock, 
 the ciu-d was partially broken and allowed to subside for about half an hour, 
 after which the temperature was raised very gradually to 108° Fahrenheit, 
 by letting steam into the hollow bottom of the cheese-tub ; the curd and 
 whey, meanwhile, being gently stirred with a wire breaker, so that the heat 
 was uniformly distributed, and the curd minutely broken. The heat was 
 kept at 108° for an hour, during which time the stirring was continued ; the 
 curd, now broken into pieces of the size of a pea, was then left for half an 
 hour to settle. 
 
 The whey was then drawn off by opening a spigot near the bottom of 
 the tub. As the curd which is obtained by this process is quite tough, it 
 readily separates from the whey, and no pressure Avhatever is at first requisite 
 to make the bulk of it run off in a perfectly clear state. 
 
 The curd, collected in one mass, was then rapidly cooled and cut across 
 into large slices, turned over once or twice, and left to drain for half an hour. 
 As soon as it was tolerably dry and had cooled down considerably, it was 
 placed under the press and much of the remaining whey removed by pressure. 
 After this the cheese was broken at first coarsely by hand, and then by the 
 curd-mill, which divides it into small fragments. A little salt was then added 
 and thoroughly mingled with the curd. 
 
 ^ The next operation Avas the vatting. The cheese vat, completely filled 
 with the broken and salted curd, was covered with a cloth ; the curd was 
 reversed in the cloth, put back into the vat, covered up and placed in the 
 press. The cheese cloth was removed several times, and the cheeses were 
 ready to leave the press on the sixth morning. Mr. Pkoctor's dairy was 
 furnished with one of Messrs. Cockey's heating apparatus. This apparatus 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 335 
 
 not only maintains a uniform temperature in the room in which the cheese is 
 ripened, but provides a supply of steam, by which the milk and whey may 
 be kept at any temperature which may be required ; the necessity of removing 
 a large quantity of milk or whey to a boiler to be heated, that it may impart 
 the proper temperature to the remainder of the milk or whey in the cheese- 
 tub, is thus done away with. As the steam is quickly generated, careless 
 dairymaids sometimes spoil the cheese in a few minutes by allowing the tem- 
 perature to rise too high. When the curd is overheated, the cheese made 
 from it is always hard and deficient in flavor. 
 
 In using Cockey's jacketed cheese-tub, care should also be taken to stir 
 up constantly the contents of the tub when steam is admitted into the false 
 bottom, for the purpose of raising the temperature to about 100", after the 
 curd has been broken up coarsely. If this precaution is neglected, a portion 
 of the curd adheres to the heated bottom, and melts. The melted curd pre- 
 vents the equal distribution of the heat, and by not amalgamating with the 
 remaining curd produces a cheese which is not uniform in texture, ripens 
 unequally, and is altogether of an inferior quality. When steam is admitted 
 into the jacketed bottom of the tub, the dairymaid should not leave her 
 place for a moment, and constantly keep her hands employed in stirring the 
 contents of the tub with the shovel wire-breaker. This is rather hard work, 
 and therefore much better performed by men than by women, many of whom 
 dislike Cockey's cheese-tub. Where it is in use there is, indeed, greater 
 risk of the cheese being spoiled than when whey heated in a boiler is added 
 to raise the contents of an ordinary tub to the required temperature. But it 
 is manifestly unjust to condemn a useful appai'atus on account of the mischief 
 which may arise from its misuse. 
 
 Cockey's cheese-tub, I have no hesitation in saying, is an excellent appa- 
 ratus which saves a great deal of labor; but excellent though it may be, I 
 cannot recommend its use to those who cannot place implicit reliance on the 
 care and vigilance of the dairyworaan. These women, as a class, are not 
 willing to alter the plan of their operations, and learn the use of a new appa- 
 ratus, which, if it saves much labor, still requires some special attention — an 
 effort which to some minds seems more troublesome than down-right hard 
 manual labor. 
 
 The rennet used in the dairy was made according to the following 
 receipt : Slice the half of a lemon ; sprinkle it Avith about six ounces of salt, 
 then pour upon it one quart of boiling water ; cover the A^essel to retain the 
 steam. When cold put into the liquid one fresh veil ; allow the whole to 
 stand for two days, then strain the liquid through a fine cloth, and the ren- 
 net is ready for use. This quantity is deemed sufficient to coagulate six 
 hundred gallons of milk. 
 
 Prepared in this mode, and carefully strained off from the sediment which 
 makes its appearance in the course of some days, rennet keeps sweet and 
 efficient for several months. 
 
336 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 experimental cheese no. 1 (whole-milk cheese.) 
 
 A cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk 
 and one hundred and thirty quarts of morning milk as drawn from the cow. 
 A sample of the mixed morning and evening milk, on analysis, gave the 
 following results : 
 
 Water, 87 . 30 
 
 Butter, 3 . 75 
 
 *Caseine, 3.31 
 
 Milk-sugar and extractive matters, 4.86 
 
 Mineral matters (asli), 78 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 53 
 
 The whey obtained in this trial was as clear as Rhenish Avine, and con- 
 tained no suspended curd. It furnished the following analytical results : 
 
 COMPOSITION OF "WHET OBTAINED IN MAKING CHEESE NO. 1. 
 
 Water, 93 . 25 
 
 Butter, 26 
 
 ^Albuminous conipouiuls, .91 
 
 fMilk-sugar, lactic acid, &c., 4.70 
 
 Mineral matters (ash), .88 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen, .166 
 
 \ Lactic acid, .60 
 
 This whey, though perfectly clear, like all other samples contained in 
 solution a considerable quantity of a curd-like substance, Avhich is not coagu- 
 lated by rennet, but separates in flakes like the white of eggs when the liquid 
 is raised to the boiling point. In all probability this curdlike substance is 
 albumen. In the analysis of milk this albuminous compound is given together 
 with caseine ; and as it constitutes one-fourth to one-third of the caseine men- 
 tioned in the analysis of milk, much less curd is obtained as cheese than 
 would be the case if the total quantity of curdlike substances was coagulated 
 by rennet. I have tried various means of separating this curdlike substance 
 together with the rest of the curd, in the hope of obtaining thereby a larger 
 quantity of cheese from a given number of gallons of milk, but have not 
 succeeded. The only simple way of obtaining this substance is to heat the 
 milk or whey nearly to 212*, a temperature which of course, would alto- 
 gether spoil the cheese. It has been said that perfectly clear whey possesses 
 little nutritive value, but this is a mistake. Not only does such whey contain 
 nearly the whole of the sugar of milk and bone-producing materials (ash), but 
 also a considerable quantity of albuminous or flesh-producing compounds held 
 in solution, besides some butter, the proportion of which, however, is very 
 small when the operation has been carefully conducted. 
 
 On no account, therefore, should the whey be allowed to run to waste. 
 Mixed with a little barley-meal it constitutes the best food that can be given 
 to pigs, for it fattens rapidly, and produces the most delicately-flavored bacon. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 337 
 
 In this trial two hundred and sixty quarts of milk produced two hundred 
 and thirty-four quarts of whey. 
 
 The cheese was weighed when fresh from the press, and again from time 
 to time, with a view of ascertaining the loss which it sustained in keeping. 
 The loss is considerable, as will be seen by the subjoined weighings : 
 
 August 17tli (fresh from the press), 613^ lbs. 
 
 September 14th m% " 
 
 December 14th 57^ " 
 
 February 11th 573| " 
 
 March 11th 57 " 
 
 April 17lh 56 " 
 
 Total loss in eight months, 5% lbs., or nine per cent, round numbers. 
 
 This cheese was considered quite ripe on the 14th of December, and there- 
 fore lost one and three-quarter pounds after it was ready for the market. A 
 portion analysed on the 17th of April, 18G1, gave the following results : 
 
 Water, 87 . 85 
 
 Butter, 28.91 
 
 *Caseiue, 25.00 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.91 
 
 fMineral matters (ash), 8.33 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen, 4.00 
 
 f Containing common salt, .53 
 
 EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE KG. 2 (PAETIALLY SKIMMED-MILK CHEESE.) 
 
 The second cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of 
 skimmed milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk. The morning 
 milk stood thirty-six hours and the evening milk twenty-four hours before 
 being skimmed. The cream removed measured ten pints, and produced nine 
 pounds of butter. 
 
 A sample of the mixed skim and new milk from which the cheese No. 2 
 was made, on analysis gave the following results : 
 
 Water, 87 . 89 
 
 Butter, 3.12 
 
 *Caseine, , 2.94 
 
 Milk sugar and extractive matters, 5.29 
 
 Mineral matters (ash), , 76 
 
 100.00 
 ^Containing nitrogen, .47 
 
 The whey produced in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty- 
 eight gallons, and was found to have the following composition : 
 
 Moisture, 92 . 85 
 
 Butter, 29 
 
 *Albuminous compounds, 93 
 
 Milk sugar, lactic acid, &c., 5.03 
 
 fMineral matters (ash), 90 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 168 
 
 t Containing lactic acid V. .".'.". .".! ... .48 
 
 22 
 
338 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The cheese No. 2 was made on the 13th of August, 1860, and weighed: 
 
 August 21st (fresh from the press), m% lbs. 
 
 September 14tli,. 493| 
 
 December 14lh, 47 
 
 March 11th, 46 
 
 April 18th, 45M 
 
 July 30th, 44 
 
 Total loss in eight months, Q% lbs., or thirteen and a-quarter per cent. 
 
 Loss when ready for sale, Z% lbs., or seven per cent. 
 
 Analysed on the 30th of July, 1861, having been kept rather longer than ten 
 
 months, it had the following composition : 
 
 Water, 32 . 88 
 
 Butter, 29.25 
 
 *Caseine, 29.87 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.92 
 
 fMineral matters (ash), 3 . 08 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen, 4.78 
 
 f Containing common salt, .29 
 
 Having been kept much longer than the preceding cheese, it contained five 
 
 per cent, less water and cut rather drier. It will be noticed that this cheese 
 
 contained very little salt. The dairymaid made a mistake not only in this, 
 
 but in all the trials, by using an insufficient quantity of salt ; not more than 
 
 about six ounces having been taken for each cheese. The proper quantity of 
 
 salt is one pound for every fifty pounds of cheese. 
 
 EXPEEIMENTAIi CHEESE KO. 3 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE.) 
 
 In this instance two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk were set aside ; 
 the morning milk stood twenty-four hours, and the evening milk thirty-six 
 hours before being skimmed. The milk from which the cream was removed 
 was then made into skimmed-milk cheese ; tAVO hundred and sixty quarts of 
 milk gave twenty pints of cream, which according to the preceding trial 
 would have yielded eighteen pounds of butter. 
 
 A sample of the skimmed milk from which the Cheese No. 3 was made, 
 on analysis furnished the following results : 
 
 Water 89.00 
 
 Butter 1.93 
 
 *Caseine 3.01 
 
 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.28 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 78 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen, 48 
 
 The whey in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty-two 
 
 quarts, and had the following composition : 
 
 Water 93.15 
 
 Butter 14 
 
 Albuminous compounds 91 
 
 *Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.06 
 
 Mineral matters 74 
 
 100.00 
 * Containing lactic acid 48 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 339 
 
 The Cheese No. 3 was made on the 15th of August, and weighed : 
 
 August 21st (fresh from tiie press) 481,^ lbs. 
 
 September l4tli 47 " ' 
 
 December 14lli 44 '< 
 
 February lltb 433/ " 
 
 March 11th 43y' u 
 
 April 18th .'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'!.'.'.' 43 " 
 
 Total loss in eight months, six and a-lialf pounds, or thirteen per cent. 
 Loss when ready for sale, four and a-half pounds, or nine and one-quarter per cent. 
 A portion of this cheese was analyzed on the 18th of April, 1861, and 
 found to consist in one hundred parts of — 
 
 Water 3943 
 
 -Butter 27.08 
 
 *Caseine 30.37 
 
 Extractive matters and lactic acid ' '23 
 
 fMiueral matters (ash) ', 2.90 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 4.86 
 
 f Containing common salt 23 
 
 EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE NO. 4 (eXTBA-RICH CHEESe). 
 
 The cream from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk was added to two 
 
 hundred and sixty quarts of new milk and made into cheese. A sample of 
 
 the mixed cream and new milk from which No. 4 was made contained in one 
 
 hundred parts : 
 
 Water 85.75 
 
 Butter 611 
 
 *Caseine 2.94 
 
 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.47 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) ' .73 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 47 
 
 In this trial two hundred and forty-three quarts of whey were produced. 
 The following is an analysis of the whey obtained in making Cheese No. 4 : 
 
 Water 92.95 
 
 Butter 65 
 
 Albuminous compounds 1 30 
 
 ■^Milk-sugar and lactic acid 4.55 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) ^65 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing lactic acid 48 
 
 In comparison with the whey obtained in making the Cheeses No. 1, 2 
 and 3, this whey is richer in butter and also in albuminous matter. It was 
 rather milky, and owed its turbid condition to finely-suspended particles of 
 curd and butter. 
 
 The Cheese No. 4 was made on the 15th of May, 1860, and weighed : 
 
 August 21st (when it left the press) 70% lbs. 
 
 September 14th 70 " 
 
 December 14th ' * * 67 " 
 
 February 11th .'..'.' 66 " 
 
 March lltli .'....'........'..! 66 " 
 
 April 18th \\\\ 64 " 
 
 July 30th ,. 63 " 
 
340 Practical Dairy Husbandrt. 
 
 Total loss in eleven months, eight and tliree-fourths pounds, or twelve and a-half per 
 cent, in round numbers. 
 
 Loss when ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds, or five per cent. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF EXTRA-RICH CHEESE NO. 4 ON JULY 30TH, 1861. 
 
 Water • • • • 30.53 
 
 Butter 41.58 
 
 *Caseine 23.38 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.45 
 
 •j-Miueral matters (ash) 2.06 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 3.74 
 
 f Containing common salt 09 
 
 It was considered desirable to repeat these trials, and to make four other 
 
 cheese precisely jn the same way in which the preceding four cheeses were 
 
 made respectively. 
 
 CHEESE KO. 5 (whole-milk CHEESE). 
 
 Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk. 
 
 COMPOSITION -OF THIS MILK (AUGUST 21ST, 1860). 
 
 Water 87.00 
 
 Butter 3.99 
 
 *Caseine 3.44 
 
 Milk-sugar, extractive matter, &c 4.81 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 76 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 55 
 
 This milk, it will be seen, differs but slightly in composition from that 
 
 used on the 11th of August, for making whole-milk cheese. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF WHET FROM CHEESE NO. 5. 
 
 Water 92.80 
 
 Butter 59 
 
 Albuminous compounds 91 
 
 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.04 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 66 
 
 100.00 
 
 This whey, like that made from Cheese No. 4, was not sufficiently clear, 
 
 and contained too much fatty matter in a state of mechanical suspension. 
 
 The Cheese ISTo. 5 was made on 21st of August, and weighed: 
 
 August 27th (fresh from the press) 61^ lbs. 
 
 September 14th 60^ " 
 
 December 14th 583| " 
 
 March 11th 57 " 
 
 Total loss in six and a-half months, four and a-half pounds, or seven and one-fourth 
 per cent. Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or five and one-fourth 
 per cent. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO, 5 ON THE IItH JULY, 1861. 
 
 Water 31.70 
 
 Butter 36.18 
 
 *Caseine 27.19 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.95 
 
 f Mineral matters (ash) 2.98 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 4.35 
 
 f Containing common salt 34 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 341 
 
 CHEESE NO. 6 (PARTIALLT-SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe). 
 
 Made from one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk and one hundred 
 and thirty quarts of skimmed milk. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF MILK FROM WHICH CHEESE NO. 6 WAS MADE. 
 
 Water 88.50 
 
 Butter 2.43 
 
 *Caseine 3.25 
 
 Milk-sugar, extractive matters, &c 5.03 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 79 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 52 
 
 Ten pints of cream were taken from one hundred and thirty quarts of 
 milk, and produced nine and one-fourth pounds of butter. 
 
 COMPOSITION OP WHEY FROM CHEESE NO 6. 
 
 Water 93.05 
 
 Butter 40 
 
 Albuminous compounds 95 
 
 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4 96 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 64 
 
 100.00 
 This cheese was made on the 18th of August and weighed : 
 
 August 24th 53 lbs. 
 
 September 14tii 533^ " 
 
 December 14th 49^ " 
 
 February 11th 49 " 
 
 Total loss in six months, four pounds, or seven and a-half per cent. 
 
 Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or six per cent. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 6, ANALYZED APRIL 22d, 1862. 
 
 Water 38.43 
 
 Butter 23.28 
 
 *Caseine 32.37 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.10 
 
 fMineral matters (ash) 3.83 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 5.18 
 
 f Containing salt 65 
 
 CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe). 
 
 Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk, from which the cream 
 (twenty and one-fourth pints) was taken oif. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF SKIM-MILK USED IN MAKING THE CHEESE NO. 7. 
 
 Water 89.10 
 
 Butter , 2.31 
 
 *Caseine 3.50 
 
 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.33 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 77 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 56 
 
 The whey from this cheese was perfectly clear, and contained hardly any 
 butter, as will be seen by the subjoined analysis : 
 
342 Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF "VSrHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 7. 
 
 Water 93.10 
 
 Butter 14 
 
 Albuminous compounds 76 
 
 *Milk-sugar and lactic acid 5.31 
 
 Mineral matters (asli) 69 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing lactic acid 46 
 
 This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed : 
 
 August 26th 49^ lbs. 
 
 September 14tli 49 " 
 
 December 14tli 473^ " 
 
 March 6th 463^ " 
 
 Total loss in six months, three and one-fourth pounds, or six and one-half per cent. 
 
 Loss when ready for sale, two and one-half pounds, or five per cent. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE). 
 
 Water 38.39 
 
 Butter 23.21 
 
 *Caseine 28.37 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 6.80 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 3.23 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing 4.54 
 
 CHEESE NO. 8 (extra RICH CHEESe). 
 
 Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk, to which was 
 added the cream (twenty pints) from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF THE MILK FROM WHICH THE CHEESE NO. 8 WAS MADE. 
 
 Water 86.73 
 
 Butter 4.81 
 
 *Caseine 2.69 
 
 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.01 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 76 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 43 
 
 COMPOSITION OF THE WHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 8. 
 
 Water 92,95 
 
 Butter 42 
 
 Albuminous compounds 1.01 
 
 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4.95 
 
 Mineral matters (ash) 67 
 
 100.00 
 
 This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed: 
 
 August 26th (fresh from the press) 74^ lbs. 
 
 September 14th 7311 « 
 
 December 14th 71 " 
 
 Loss from the time it left the press until ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds, 
 or five per cent. 
 
 No analysis was made of this cheese. . 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 343 
 
 These experiments then led to the following results : 
 
 Marketable 
 Cheese. Butter. 
 
 Quarts. lbs. lbs. 
 
 1. 520 of milk produced (whole-milk) 116 
 
 3. " (one-half skimmed) produced 96^^ 18 
 
 3. " (all skimmed) produced 90}^ 36 
 
 the cream from one- ) ^ , . „,,„„„„ qai/ 
 
 4. 1040 " \ half being added to [ produced \ 'f^rcheese 138 ! '. 
 
 ^^au siiiiiimeuj pnjiiuucii 
 
 !the cream from one- ) ^ , . 
 
 half being added to [■ produced t ^.j V 
 the other ) ' 
 
 The cheeses were sent to Messrs. Bridges & Co., extensive cheese fac- 
 tors at Bristol, who considered No. 1 to be worth seventy shillings per hun- 
 dredweight ; No. 2, sixty shillings per hundredweight ; No. 3, fifty shillings 
 per hundredweight. 
 
 With respect to the extra-rich Cheese No. 4, Messrs. Bbidges say : " We 
 have examined the cheese marked No. 4 ; we think it cuts rather richer than 
 that marked No. 1, but it bears no higher value in the market." In my 
 paper on the Composition of Cheese, I pointed out the fact that the market 
 value of cheese does not entirely depend upon the amount of butter which it 
 contains, I am glad to find this opinion confirmed by the testimony of a 
 cheese factor whose practical knowledge is extensive. 
 
 Mr. Tanner informs me that he has had a long conversation with Mr. 
 Bridges on the subject of cheese-making, and in his letter to me quotes 
 several observations made by him on this occasion, which perfectly accord 
 with remarks made by me in the paper referred to. 
 
 Thus Mr. Bridges, speaking within certain limits, considers the richness 
 of cheese to depend as much upon the mode of making as upon the quantity 
 of cream in the milk. Too much heat, he says, destroys the cream ; meaning, 
 no doubt, that too much heat melts some of the butter, which then passes 
 into the whey. By carelessly manipulating the tender curd, he justly 
 observes, some of the cream may be washed out and passed into the whey. 
 This gentleman is also of opinion that the best Cheddar cheese can be made 
 from good new milk, and therefore considers the addition of cream to milk 
 of questionable service, and certainly an extravagant practice. 
 
 The addition of cream to new milk, no doubt, if not absolutely necessary, 
 certainly improves the quality of Stilton cheese, but the market value of 
 Cheddar is not raised materially by such an addition. First-rate cheese- 
 makers, Mr. Bridges observes, often take some cream from the milk, and 
 still make a superior quality of cheese (worth more in the market) than less 
 experienced and careless makers produce from unskimmed milk. He looks 
 upon the temperature and careful breaking of the curd as the points upon 
 which the quality of the cheese (Cheddar) mainly depends — apart, of course, 
 from the influence of the natural richness or poverty of the milk. 
 
 Having treated of all these points in detail in my paper on the " Compo- 
 sition of Cheese," I need not refer to them in particular. These observations 
 made by Mr. Bridges must be satisfactory to dairymen, as aflTording a prac- 
 
344 Practical Dairy Husbandry, 
 
 tical confirmation of the correctness of opinions which I have already pub- 
 lished, as resulting from my own observations and scientific experiments. 
 
 The cheeses produced in these trials were not so good as they might have 
 been, nor like those of experienced makers, such as Mr. Harding of Marks- 
 bury, Mr. McAdam of Gorsly Hill, or Mr. Chandos Pole of Derby. 
 Anxious not in any way to thwart or disconcert the dairymaid, I thouo-ht it 
 wise to let her have entirely her own way. She certainly made two great 
 mistakes. To one I have already alluded ; six ounces of salt is not enough 
 for from fifty to sixty pounds of cheese ; three-quarters to one pound would 
 have been a better proportion. The second mistake which she made was to 
 raise the temperature to 108° F. On no account should the heat of the 
 cheese-tub be allowed to rise above 100° F. The higher the temperature is 
 raised the more readily the whey passes from the curd, and the less mechan- 
 ical work is required. The dairy woman may, therefore, be naturally tempted 
 to save herself trouble to the injury of the cheese. 
 
 Although I am a great advocate for the Cheddar system of cheese-making, 
 I am bound to say that the comparatively lower temperature which the best 
 Cheshire makers adopt is the main reason of the exceedingly fine aroma 
 which so favorably characterises their produce. 
 
 The finest-flavored cheese which I have ever tasted was made at Ridley 
 Hall, near Crewe, Cheshire. I have no hesitation in saying that milk of the 
 same quality as that which there came under the careful management of Mrs. 
 Willis, in the hands of the most expert Cheddar maker would not produce 
 a cheese of an equally delicious flavor. 
 
 The care, skill, and enormous amount of work and time which the making 
 of the best Cheshire entails, especially when contrasted with the Cheddar 
 system, no doubt are the main causes why so little really first-rate Cheddar 
 cheese is now manufactured. I would strongly recommend those who prefer 
 in the main to follow the Cheshire plan, but find that their cheese is apt to 
 heave and be inferior in quality, to set the milk at a somewhat higher tem- 
 perature than is their custom; 80° is a very good temperature at the time 
 of applying the rennet. When the curd has been carefully broken up and 
 allowed to settle for about half an hour, the temperature of the cheese-tub 
 may then be raised with advantage to 90° F. 
 
 Returning to the Wall's Court cheese trials, it appears, according to pre- 
 ceding data, that one thousand gallons of milk, used according to the four 
 difierent modes adopted, gave market produce as follows : 
 
 No. 1. 1,000 gallons of new milk gave 8 cwt. of whole-milk cheese. 
 ISO 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, partially skimmed, produced 6^ cwts. 16 lbs. of cheese, 
 and 13^ cwt. of l>utter. 1 j . i /2 
 
 No 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, skimmed, produced 6 cwts. 34 lbs. of skim-milk cheese, 
 and 33^ cwts. of butter. 
 
 No 4. 1,000 gallons of milk produced 3 cwts. 13 lbs. of skim-milk cheese, and 4M 
 cwts. of extra rich cheese. 
 
 Let us now compare the economic results obtained, taking as the basis of 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, . 345 
 
 our calculation the price actually obtained by the sale of these eight large 
 Cheddar cheeses, and assuming that butter is sold at Is. per pound. 
 
 £ s. d. £ s. d. 
 
 No. 1. Produced 8 cwts. of whole milk cheese, worth 70s. per cwl 28 
 
 No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 2 qrs. 16 Ihs, at 60s. per cwt 19 18 4 
 
 26 18 4 
 
 Butter, 11^ cwt., at Is. per lb 7 
 
 No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 24 lbs., at 50s. per cwt 15 10 8 
 
 Butter, 3K cwts ^^ ^ ^ 29 ^q 3 
 
 No. 4. Made into skim-milk cheese and extra rich cheese, 1,000 gal- 
 lons of milk prod uced : 
 
 Skim-milk cheese, 3 cwts, 12 lbs., at 50s 7 15 4 
 
 Kich cheese, 4 cwts. 3 qrs., at 703 16 13 6 
 
 24 7 10 
 
 Thus in these experiments it will appear that No. 2 gave the best, and 
 No. 4 decidedly the least profitable result. Where a ready sale for butter 
 can be found, I am inclined to think it is more profitable to make skim-milk 
 cheese and butter than to look only to the production of a cheese of a better 
 quality. The Cheddar plan, however, is not so well adapted for the making 
 of skim-milk cheese as the Gloucester system, neither is it desirable to make 
 thick skim-cheeses. A thick skim-milk cheese, when made at the elevated 
 temperature at which Cheddar is usually produced, never ripens properly, and 
 like all skim-milk cheese deteriorates when kept more than two months ; 
 whereas a rich Cheddar is gradually improved by keeping for many months. 
 
 CHEESE EXPERIMENTS MADE AT MK. HAERISOn'S DAIRY, FKOCESTER COURT, 
 
 STONEHOUSE. 
 
 Mr. J. F. Harrison makes excellent uncolored single Gloucester, and 
 follows the ordinary practice in his neighborhood of making cheese twice a day. 
 
 The pasture in this district is good, but full of buttercups {Ranunculus). 
 The cows kept on this pasture yield milk rich in butter. In making single 
 Gloucester, a portion of the milk from each milking is generally set aside, 
 partially skimmed, and then added to new milk. The rennet is applied at a 
 temperature varying, according to the time of the year, from 75° to 80°. 
 After an hour the curd is carefully cut across with a large-bladed knife, then 
 removed by a skimming dish from the sides and bottom of the tub. The 
 curd is allowed to subside for about a quarter of an hour, after which the 
 clear whey is dipped out with a wooden bowl, care being taken not to press 
 or injure the tender curd. When most of the whey has been removed, the 
 curd is again carefully stirred with a wooden skimming dish, and afterwards 
 with a wire breaker, at first very cautiously and gradually more briskly. 
 After the curd has been thoroughly broken, the whole is left to settle for 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes ; the clear whey is next drawn ofi", and the curd 
 collected into one mass. This is cut into thin slices, which are heaped up and 
 again collected into one mass, and this process of slicing and heapmg is 
 repeated several times, as it materially facilitates the separation of the whey 
 and is much preferable to the use of pressure. Many dairymaids, anxious to 
 be rid of this work, put the curd far too soon into the presses ; in consequence 
 
346 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 of which the pores of the outside layers of the cheese are completely closed 
 up, and the whey prevented from escaping. No amount of ordinax-y pressure 
 removes the whey so perfectly as repeated slicing and careful breakino- up. 
 
 When sufficiently firm and dry, the curd is placed upon cloth in the vat, 
 and gently pressed under an ordinary cheese-press. When no more whey 
 flows out, it is removed from the press, crumbled coarsely by hand, and then 
 more minutely by the curd-mill. Finally the curd is vatted, and placed at 
 first under a slight pressure, which is gradually increased. The last thing 
 done on the day on Avhich the cheeses are made, is often to rub in some salt. 
 Subsequently the cheeses are salted in the same way three times, and each 
 time the salt is rubbed in, a clean and dry cloth is placed around the cheeses. 
 In about a week's time the cheeses are ready to be removed to the cheese-room. 
 
 The preceding is a short description of the usual plan of making thin 
 Gloucester cheese. 
 
 Mr. Harrison does not color his cheese, and keeps it for about a fortnight 
 in a warm room, and then removes it to a cool, airy shed for three weeks 
 longer before he sends it to market. In both rooms the cheeses are kept on 
 wooden shelves and frequently turned. In winter the first room is heated 
 by a stove. 
 
 Mr. Harrison, who takes great interest in cheese-making, some years 
 ago applied the ordinary centrifugal drying-machine to the purpose of 
 separating whey. A small turbine or water-wheel drives the revolving 
 vessel in which the curd is placed in a cloth. As the vessel attains its 
 velocity, the whey is driven outwards through the perforated surface which 
 encloses it, and escapes. The curd in this case is either not broken at all, 
 unless by accident, or but imperfectly. 
 
 Having operated with the drying machine, I am of opinion that instead 
 of beating curd and whey together into the revolving vessel, it would be 
 better and more expeditious to break the curd coarsely, to let it subside for 
 twenty minutes, to dip out as much of the clear whey as possible without dis- 
 turbing the curd, and then to place it, tied in a cloth, in the revolving vessel. 
 
 Mr. Harrison obligingly placed his dairy at my disposal to try certain 
 experiments, and for his kindness and personal assistance my sincere thanks 
 are due to this gentleman. 
 
 It has been stated by many, that in cheeseraaking a considerable loss, 
 both in curd and butter, is often incurred by adopting a faulty method, or 
 by careless manipulation. With a view of preventing these alleged losses, 
 Mr. Harrison was the first to adapt the centrifugal drying-machine to dairy 
 operations. But as his excellent dairymaid prefers to make cheese by hand, 
 the centrifugal machine is not often set in motion at Frocester Court. 
 
 I was anxious to ascertain by comparative trials whether the alleged loss 
 in cheesemaking was unavoidable, or whether it could be avoided or dimin- 
 ished by the employment of this centrifugal whey-separating machine. The 
 trials were made at Frocester Court on the 7th of August, 1860. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 347 
 
 No. 1. — In the first experiments, eighty gallons of milk were made 
 according to the usual plan into four cheeses, which may be called hand- 
 made cheeses. 
 
 No. 2. — In the second trial, eighty gallons of milk were made into four 
 cheeses as before, with this exception — that the whey was separated by the 
 centrifugal machine. 
 
 The milk used in both trials had the following composition : 
 
 Water, 87.40 
 
 Butter, 3.43 
 
 *Caseine, 3 . 13 
 
 Milk sugar, extractive matters, &c., 5.13 
 
 Miueral matters (ash), , 93 
 
 100.00 
 * Containing nitrogen 50 
 
 The whey obtained in each experiment was neaiiy clear ; that produced 
 by the machine being the clearer of the two. On analysis the following 
 results were obtained : 
 
 COMPOSITION OF TWO SAMPLES OF WHEY MADE AT PROCESTER COURT, AUG. 7tH, 1860. 
 
 MACHINE-MADE. HAND-MADE. 
 
 Water, 93.75 93 60 
 
 Butter, .39 .55 
 
 *Albuminous Compounds, 87 .96 
 
 Ash 86 .81 
 
 Sugar and extractive matters, 5.13 5.08 
 
 100.00 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen .14 .15 
 
 Free lactic acid, .41 .36 
 
 We see then that both in respect of the butter and the albuminous com- 
 pounds left in the whey, the machine has an advantage, though but a slight 
 one ; but there is no essential difference between ordinary whey and that pro- 
 duced by the centrifugal machine. Other samples of whey from cheese made 
 by hand have given me quite as little butter as that found in the whey pro- 
 duced by the machine ; and every sample of whey which I have yet examined 
 contained from 8-lOths to 1 per cent, of a curd-like albuminous matter which 
 is not coagulated by rennet, and that can only be separated by boiling. 
 
 The four cheeses of each trial were carefully marked and weighed at inter- 
 vals. They were made, it will be remembered, on the 7th of August. 
 
 No. I. — The cheeses made by hand weighed : 
 
 August 18th, 811^ lbs. 
 
 September 3d, 783^ " 
 
 September 33d, 75 " 
 
 Loss in four weeks, ej^ lbs., or 8 per cent. 
 
 II. — The four cheeses made by the machine weighed : 
 
 August 18th, 741^ lbs. 
 
 September 3d, 70)1 " 
 
 September 33d, 67 " 
 
 Loss in four weeks, 1)4. ^^s., or 10 per cent. 
 
348 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The cheese was sold at Id. a pound when only five weeks old, and no per- 
 ceptible difierence in the quality of the cheese made by hand and that made 
 by the machine could be noticed. All were equally good and fine-flavored 
 cheeses. 
 
 Eighty gallons of milk when made by hand into cheese thus produced 
 seventy-five pounds, and when made by the machine only sixty-seven pounds 
 of salable cheese. Since the whey from the machine-made cheese Avas 
 rather the poorer, fully as great a weight of cheese might have been expected 
 when the machine was used as when the ordinary plan of manipulation was 
 adopted. To account for this difference of eight pounds, it may be supposed 
 that the machine-made cheese was drier than the other; but the preced- 
 ing weighings show that whereas the No. I cheeses lost in four weeks only 
 eight per cent, in weight, the No. II cheeses made by machine lost ten per 
 cent., indicating thereby that the latter were more moist than the former. 
 Direct determinations, indeed, showed that the machine-made cheese contained 
 more water than that made in the ordinary way. In the former I found 37.20 
 per cent, and in the latter 36.77 per cent, of water ; but this difference is not 
 sufficient to account for the results. 
 
 The case was puzzling ; equal quantities of milk had in each case been 
 carefully measured out; rather less matter had been left in the whey which 
 came from the machine ; the cheese differed but little in respect of moisture ; 
 but for an accidental observation I should have been completely at a loss to 
 explain the anomaly. I found out by chance that the dairymaid was deter- 
 mined not to be beaten by the machine, and to prove her skill by making a 
 larger quantity by hand than by the machine. The two trials were made in 
 two adjoining rooms, and watching the making of the two sets of cheese from 
 beginning to end, I found the dairymaid in the act of incorporating some 
 cheese-parings from the preceding day's make with the hand-made cheese. 
 Whether these parings were specially reserved for the coming trial or not I 
 cannot say ; but I certainly saw her take them from a tolerably large supply 
 which she kept under the cheese-tub. 
 
 The examination of the two samples of whey had, however, in my opinion, 
 afforded sufficient evidence of the fact that no matter how cheese is made, a 
 considerable proportion of the nitrogenized compounds of the milk is left in the 
 whey ; and that this loss is unavoidable, and not necessarily greater in the 
 ordinary plans of operation than by the use of a machine. 
 
 All the experimental cheeses were received by me on the 28th of Sep- 
 tember, 1860. 
 
 One of them which was made by the machine got injured in the trans- 
 mission from the dairy to Cirencester. It weighed sixteen and a-half pounds. 
 A portion of the cheese was analyzed on the 28 th of September, and yielded 
 the following results : 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 349 
 
 Water 37.30 
 
 Batter, 37.30 
 
 *Caseine, 34 . 50 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ' -44 
 
 f Mineral matters (asli), 3.56 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen, 3.92 
 
 \ Containing common salt, 85 
 
 The cheeses were kept for a considerable length of time, principally for 
 
 the purpose of ascertaining the loss in weight which they sustained in keeping. 
 
 On the 28th of September the eight»cheeses weighed: 
 
 No. 
 1 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 
 MACHINE-MADE. 
 
 lbs 
 
 .... 161^ 
 
 .... 1734 
 .... 16K 
 .... 161^ 
 
 No. 
 1 . 
 3 . 
 3 . 
 
 4. 
 
 HAND-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 ... 18^ 
 
 ... 17 
 ... 18% 
 ... 30 
 
 Total 66K 
 
 On the 9th of November they weighed : 
 
 Total 741^ 
 
 No. 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 Consumed 
 
 MACHINE-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 .... 15% 
 
 .... 16% 
 .... 15% 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 28th SEPT. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 No. 
 
 1. 
 
 3. 
 3. 
 
 4. 
 
 HAND-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 .... 18M 
 .... 16M 
 .... 18M 
 .... 19% 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 28th SEPT. 
 
 lbs. 
 1^ 
 
 Weights on the 19tli of January, 1861 
 
 No. 
 1. 
 
 MACmNE-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 14M 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 28th SEPT. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 3M 
 3 
 
 4 Consumed 
 
 Weights on the 12th of February, 1861 
 
 HAND-MADE. 
 
 No. lbs. 
 
 1 16% ^^ 
 
 3 Consumed on the 9tli JNov. 
 
 3 161^ 
 
 4 1834 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 28th SEPT. 
 
 lbs. 
 2 
 
 334 
 
 3 
 
 No. 
 
 1., 
 
 2., 
 3. 
 
 MACHINE-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 13% 
 
 14% 
 
 14 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 28th SEPT. 
 
 lbs. 
 3% 
 2^ 
 
 No. 
 
 1 Consumed. 
 
 2 Consumed. 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 HAND-MADE. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 LOSS SINCE 
 
 28th SEPT. 
 lbs. 
 
 16 
 
 17% 
 
 3% 
 3K 
 
 4 Consumed. 
 
 Accordingly forty-two and a-half pounds of machine-made cheese lost from 
 the time they were ready for sale until the 12th of February— that is, a period 
 of not quite five months — seven and three-quarters pounds, or eighteen per 
 cent. ; while thirty-three and three-quarter pounds of the hand-made cheese 
 lost in the same period five and a-quarter pounds, or fifteen and a-half per 
 cent. ; thus showing plainly that the hand-made cheeses were rather drier than 
 those made by the machine. These weighings likewise show the economy of 
 selling cheese as soon as possible after it is ready for the market. 
 
 One of the cheeses made by hand was analyzed on the 21st of January, 
 1861, and found to contain in one hundred parts : 
 
350 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Water, 01 oe 
 
 Butter, .•:;:.■.•:;.•.■.■:.•.■.■.•::;::;: sJ.I? 
 
 *Caseine, gg „„ 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ." ] 001^ 
 
 fMineral matters (ash), .!!!.*.!!'...!!'.*.!,".*."" 4 45 
 
 *r. . . . . lao.oo 
 
 * Uontaming nitrogen, ^ «^ 
 
 f Contaiuing common salt, ,.,, ........',. ,,]\\ " 135 
 
 During the time of keeping it became, of course, drier and correspondingly 
 richer in butter. 
 
 Two skim-cheeses made on the 8tR of August, 1860, weighed on the 18th 
 of August, thirty-one and a-half pounds ; on the 3d September, thirty pounds ; 
 and on the 22d of September, twenty-eight pounds, and were then considered 
 ready for sale. Kept still longer they lost considerably in weight, as will be 
 seen by the following weighings : 
 
 WEIGHT OF TWO SKIM CHEESES. 
 SEPTEMBER 28th. NOVEMBER 9th. JANUARX 19th. 1861. FEBEUART 12th, 1861. 
 
 
 No. lbs. lbs. 
 
 lbs. lbs. 
 
 1 13 12K n% 11 
 
 2 15 14K 13g 12% 
 Total 28 27 24^ 23^ 
 
 Total loss in weight in not quite five months, 4}^ lbs., or 15 per cent. 
 
 A portion of one of the skim-cheeses was analyzed on the 19th of Feb- 
 ruary, 1861, with the following results : 
 
 ^^1^'' 27.68 
 
 *^^^"F 30.80 
 
 *Caseme gg ^o 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1 46 
 
 fMineral matters (ash).. 4 '94 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen g g2 
 
 f Containing common salt .".'.".".'.".'.".*.*.'."' 1 27 
 
 This^ cheese was hardly inferior to a good whole-milk cheese, and might 
 readily have been sold as such. 
 
 It is a well-ascertained fact that towards the fall of the year cows produce 
 much less but richer milk than in spring and summer. This is strikingly 
 illustrated by the various quantities of cheese which are obtained at different 
 times of the year, from a given quantity of milk, as will be seen by the follow- 
 ing results with which Mr. Haeeison kindly supplied me : 
 
 <,^-, '^^S'^'^ beginninar of August, 160 gallons of milk produced 8 cheeses, weighing on the 
 22d of September 142 lbs. 
 
 On the 19tb of October, 110 gallons of milk produced 7 cheeses, weighing on the 31st 
 of December, 108i^ lbs. 
 
 On the 29th of November, 60 gallons of milk produced 5 cheeses, weicliinff 70 lbs. on 
 the 13th of February. 
 
 On the 29th of November the cows were still out to grass, and had no extra 
 food but hay. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 351 
 
 In conclusion I may mention an experiment which Mr. Harding of Marks- 
 bury made at my request, with a view of converting into cheese, if possible, 
 the curd-like substance which is not coagulated by rennet, together with any 
 suspended particles of butter usually occurring in whey. 
 
 To this end seventy gallons of whey were heated to the boiling point, and 
 kept for some time at that temperature. The curd-like substance which sepa- 
 rated was collected on a cloth, and after the addition of a little salt, placed in 
 the cheese-press. After remaining in it for three days eighteen ounces of 
 whey-cheese were obtained. This cheese had a peculiar granular texture, and 
 even after long keeping did not ripen proj)erly like other cheese. The high 
 temperature at which it was produced evidently prevents the necessary fer- 
 mentation which curd must undergo before it becomes mellow, and salable 
 as human food. 
 
 The small quantity of eighteen ounces from seventy gallons, moreover, 
 appears hardly sufficient to repay for the trouble. On the whole it would 
 appear to be quite as profitable to set the whey for butter, and to give the 
 skimmed whey to the pigs. 
 
 As a matter of curiosity I append an analysis of the whey-cheese, which 
 although very rich in fatty matters, had a bad texture and quite an inferior 
 flavor. 
 
 COMPOSITION OF WHET-CHEESB. 
 
 Moisture 30.23 
 
 Butter 44.37 
 
 *Caseine 21.50 
 
 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.52 
 
 fMineral matters (ash) 2.48 
 
 100.00 
 
 * Containing nitrogen 3.44 
 
 f Containing common salt 1.83 
 
 I 
 
PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKWa 
 
 Before entering upon the subject of cheese manufacture in detail, I have 
 some few remarks to make on topics omitted in previous pages. 
 
 CLEANSING DAIRY UTENSILS. 
 
 Before commencing the operation of milking, it is important that the 
 pails and cans be clean and sweet. This is an old story, which every dairy- 
 man has probably heard over and over again, and understands perfectly in 
 the abstract. The cleansing of pails and cans usually belongs to the female 
 portion of the household, and some would take it as an offense to be told 
 that their dairy utensils are not kept clean and in order ; but it is a fact that 
 many dairywomen, though patterns in neatness generally, do not understand 
 when a milk pail is in proper order to be used. It is a common practice to 
 take wooden pails after milking, clean the outside and rinse them in cold 
 water. The water is turned into the first pail, and a cloth may perhaps be 
 used to brush around the water. Then the contents of the pail are emptied . 
 into the second pail, and thus the whole lot is treated. Then the pails are a 
 second time rinsed and turned down to drain and dry, and are pronounced 
 clean and sweet. This is the evening management. In the morning the 
 same operation is performed with hot water, that is, water not so hot but 
 that the hand may be borne in it, without seriously discommoding the 
 operator. To the common observer pails treated in this way may appear 
 perfectly sweet and clean ; but to those who understand the nature of milk 
 ferments, these utensils are positively filthy. A close observation about the 
 corners at the bottom, about the ears of the pail, and often upon the sides, 
 will reveal a gum-like substance, which consists of minute particles of milk, 
 adhering to the surface and drying down, having the appearance of discolored 
 white paint. After awhile this gummy substance becomes so thick that it 
 arrests the attention of the dairymaid, and she forthwith scours it off with 
 salt or otherwise, and the pails present a whiter aspect. But of the damage 
 that has been done from day to day to the milk from these germs of ferment, 
 especially if the weather has been warm, she has no idea, and often will not 
 be convinced. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 353 
 
 A great deal of trouble with milk at factories and private dairies arises 
 from improperly cleaned pails ; for it is surprising how small a quantity of 
 this old decomposed milk will set a large quantity of good milk in a ferment. 
 
 4 
 
 FlGTTBI! 1. 
 
 My OAvn experiments upon this point have been numerous, and with those 
 who have carefully studied the nature of milk the question has never for a 
 moment been disputed. It was on account of the carelessness and negligence 
 in cleansing wooden milk pails, that I long since denovmced them as a 
 mcisance, and I am glad to say that Dairy Associations in New York, in 
 Ohio, in Canada and the Northwest have sustained this opinion, and resolu- 
 tions recommending their banishment from the dairy, and the use of tin in 
 their place. We introduce cuts of approved tin milk pails — the Millae 
 pail, that of the Iron Clad Co., and the 
 Ralph pail. 
 
 Millak's tin milk pails (Fig. 1) are 
 made from four cross tin, imported on 
 purpose for them, have but one seam in 
 the body of the pail and are soldered very 
 smoothly. A tinned malleable iron rim or 
 band is soldered firmly to the bottom in- 
 closing it, and is so constructed as to thor- 
 oughly protect and support it and to raise 
 it sufficiently to prevent it from resting on 
 the floor and from picking up the dirt ; it 
 is also convenient for tipping the pail. 
 The Avire in the upper edge of the pail is inclosed by the tin and then 
 soldered so that it cannot rust. The bail is made from the best tinned wire. 
 23 
 
 riGURE 2. 
 
354 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 ^ 
 
 The Iron Clad Co. pail is also of heavy tin, substantially made, the 
 bottom being convex to give it strength. It is shown in Fig. 2. 
 
 The Ralph pail is of tin, and has a concave bottom. It is made in two 
 styles, the one with a rim on the bottom, and the other as a tin lining to a 
 wooden pail. Figs. 3 and 4 represent the last named style. 
 
 FiGUBE 3. 
 
 Figure 4. 
 
 In cleansing dairy utensils, it should be understood that neither cold or 
 warm water is sufficient to destroy the germs of ferment contained in these 
 particles of decomposed milk. To be efficient, the water must be at the 
 boiling point, or 212°. Dr. Voelcker well remarks, in speaking of this 
 point, that " it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly boiling ; 
 and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking, though they 
 have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty when the kettle 
 is really boiling." " This remai'k," he adds, " applies to some educated as 
 well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing voice of the tea 
 kettle, accompanied by a certain amount of vapor, for a sign that water is in 
 a state of ebullition." Now go through the country, and how many dairies 
 will be found where attention is given to this matter of boiling water in 
 cleansing cans and pails ? Probably not one in one hundred. It is tpue 
 when tin is used the difficulty of cleaning is not so great as with wood, since 
 the metal will not absorb liquids ; and yet we hear of much complaint from 
 imperfectly cleansed milk pails and cans. At a meeting of the American 
 Dairy Association, Mr. Moon of Herkimer, in discussing the question of 
 floating curds^ gave an instance where this trouble was had in one vat of 
 milk at the factory every day for a week. The cause was finally traced to a 
 certain dairy, and an examination of the milk utensils revealed the fact, that 
 under the small piece of tin soldered around the vent hole in the can cover, 
 some milk had leaked through the imperfect solder. Here had lodged small 
 particles of milk which, decomposing or becoming putrid, was the cause of 
 the trouble. The covers were repaired and properly cleaned, and afterwards 
 there were no floating curds. The plan of 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365 
 
 cleansing and steaming the cans 
 
 with a jet of hot steam, as practiced by the Elgin Condensing Works, is 
 worthy of imitation, and should be adopted by every factory. And I believe 
 that unless farmers take this matter more at heart, and resolve to be more 
 careful with dairy utensils and in the delivery of milk at the factories, the 
 same losses and troubles that have been going on for years past will continue. 
 The question is of vital importance, and cannot be too frequently urged upon 
 the dairy public. 
 
 MILKING. 
 
 Farmers generally have the impression that when milch cows have win- 
 tered well and are fairly out to grass there need be but little care or attention 
 given to the animals, and that then in their herds they have a fountain that 
 is to supply good, pure milk simj)ly by drawing it, not much matter how or 
 when. It is true people understand that when cows are milked with great 
 irregularity, or are subjected to any extraordinary brutal treatment — such as 
 sundry kicks in the udder with a heavy boot, they will yield unprofitable 
 results, since the consequence of such management forces itself almost imme- 
 diately upon the attention. But it is not those things that come so plainly 
 under the eye of the observer, concerning which I propose to speak. If an 
 angry man kicks his cow in the udder, some of the blood-vessels of the part 
 will probably be ruptured, and the bloody milk which flows from the teats 
 will speak more forcibly than any words of mine ; but if he kicks her in the 
 ribs, or mauls her with a milking-stool upon the hips and back, the conse- 
 quences may not be so immediately apparent, yet that damage is done and 
 that loss will follow, is equally certain. I am speaking of no exceptional 
 cases, but of those that are of common occurrence wherever any considerable 
 herd is kept, and when the eye of the master is not sharp to detect and 
 punish these offenses. The pressing want in the dairy districts to-day is for 
 good, kind, humane laborers, who can be trusted to do the milking in a proper 
 manner. Many of these people do not understand that any pai'ticular loss is 
 to follow from a moderately brutal and cruel treatment of cattle. 
 
 I have always advised dairymen to make a special contract with laborers 
 who are to be employed about the dairy. Let it be understood that the 
 moment a cow is maltreated, that moment a settlement is to be made and the 
 party offending to be discharged with a reasonable deduction from his wages. 
 This fairly understood at the time of hiring, together with proper oversight 
 of the animals, and those about the dairy will go far to mitigate a great and 
 growing evil. It is a lamentable fact that there are a large number of ailing 
 milch cows in the dairy districts — cows that are not in vigorous health, that 
 fall off in milk, that have sick turns, now and then, which, if the history of 
 their treatment was known, could all be traced to the causes I have enumer- 
 ated. A rap upon the spine with the stool has ruined many a valuable beast ; 
 a stroke upon the udder has often produced unaccountable cases of garget. 
 
356 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 I wish it could be generally and thoroughly understood, that nothing pays 
 better in the dairy than kindness and gentleness to stock. Milch cows should 
 be kept as quiet and comfortable as possible, and no person should be 
 employed in milking that the animals fear. Any undue nervous excitement 
 not only lessens the quantity but depreciates the quality of the milk. Some- 
 times cows take a dislike to their milker, and in such cases a change should 
 be made, otherwise there is a liability of the cow falling off in her milk. I have 
 seen several cases of this kind, and although such freaks are quite unaccount- 
 able, it will always be found better to change the milker if possible, rather 
 than to attempt to conquer this j^eculiarity. I do not approve the practice, 
 common with some dairymen, of the milkers milking the cows indiscrimi- 
 nately. The hands should each select a certain number of cows and continue 
 to milk them from day to day throughout the season. 
 
 The hours of milking should be regular, and each cow should be milked 
 in regular order. The milk should be drawn rapidly and to the last drop, 
 and all loud talking, singing, and wrangling avoided. These are little things 
 in themselves, and may seem to many to be " over nice ;" but repeated and 
 Avell-conducted experiments have convinced me that they are important points 
 to be attended to, and must be observed to obtain the best results. I always 
 insist that the milkers 
 
 STUDY THE DISPOSITION OF THE COWS 
 
 under their charge, that they become familiar or perfectly acquainted with 
 each animal, patting them, or in other ways making them understand that you 
 are friendly and fond of them. When once their confidence has been obtained 
 in this way they will exhibit affection in return, and will yield in the increased 
 quantity of milk more than enough to pay for the time and trouble given to 
 the purpose indicated. Some cows are extremely nervous and excitable ; such 
 require caution and attention in management, otherwise they soon become 
 worthless for the dairy. 
 
 IN DRIVING CATTLE PROM THE PASTURE 
 
 to the stable they should never be hurried or made to go faster than a walk. 
 Good cows have well-filled udders, which make it painful to move over the 
 ground faster than a walk. Besides, in warm weather, by hurrying the animal 
 there is always danger of over-heating her blood and milk, and thus not only 
 injuring it, but all the other milk with which it comes in contact. Dogs 
 should never be allowed in a dairy. They are the source of infinite mischief. 
 In all my observations I have never yet met with a strictly first-class dairy 
 of cheese, where the cows were dogged from the pasture to the stable. 
 
 What I desire to impress upon the mind is, that these truths should be 
 understood not only in the abstract, but that they be carried into practice. 
 Neither good butter nor good cheese can be made from diseased milk ; nor 
 can good milk be had from diseased cows. 
 
 i 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 357 
 
 WETTING THE TEATS WITH MILK. 
 
 Some people are in the habit, when first sitting down to milk, of drawing 
 a little milk to wet their hands and the teats of the cow. It is not a cleanly- 
 practice and should always be avoided. I have seen milkers with their hands 
 gummed up with filth, and the reeking compound of milk, dirt and manure, 
 oozing out from between the fingers and dropping into the pail, as the result 
 of this bad habit referred to. In some dairies a great deal of milk is tainted 
 in this way, and not unfrequently this taint shows itself in a very marked 
 degree in the butter and cheese manufactured. Many thoughtless persons 
 have the impression that milk in some way purifies itself and that taints 
 imparted in the way I have named cannot be carried into the butter and 
 cheese. Such ideas are very erroneous, and the sooner correct notions are 
 had in regard to the purity and cleanliness of milk for dairy purposes, the 
 sooner shall we arrive at a higher standard of excellence in dairy products, 
 and as a consequence better prices be obtained. 
 
 MILK WITH DRY HANDS. 
 
 Cows do not milk any easier with wet hands than with dry hands. If the 
 udder or teats are muddy or covered with filth, they should be washed with clean 
 water and wiped dry. Then milk with dry hands and it will soon be found easier 
 and pleasanter, even with those who have been accustomed to wetting the 
 hands and teats while milking. In summer, when cows are running upon clean 
 upland pastures, the udder and teats will generally be clean, except perhaps 
 in wet weather. If there is no occasion to wash the udder and teats, it is 
 always well to brush over the parts with the hands or with a cloth to remove 
 any particles of dust or loose hairs adhering and then set the pail in position 
 and commence to milk with dry hands. Uncleanliness in milking is one of 
 the great faults in the dairies of this country, and it is one of the causes of 
 bad "flavor in dairy products. Every dairyman should fully explain this mat- 
 ter to hired help and insist upon cleanly habits in milking. That the fault 
 referred to is a serious one and more general than some would at first imagine, 
 can very easily be demonstrated by visiting any of the factories at the time 
 the milk is being delivered. Let the milk strainers then be closely scrutinized, 
 and they will often be found to present a most disgustingly filthy appearance. 
 If this mass of filth could be shown to some uncleanly milkers, I hardly think 
 they would be willing to taste milk filtered through such material. 
 
 EXPERIMENTS IN COAGULATING MILK. 
 
 Various attempts have been made from time to time to find a substitute 
 for rennet in cheese-making. Acids have been used for this purpose, and are 
 to some extent employed in Holland at the present time. It is claimed by 
 some that when acids are used for coagulating the milk a larger percentage 
 of curd is obtained, and that the cheese has longer keeping qualities than 
 when rennet is used ; but I believe it to be generally conceded that no sub- 
 stance has as yet been found equal to rennet for making a fine, delicate- 
 
358 Pb ACTIO AL DaIRY HUSBANDRY. 
 
 flavored cheese, such as the markets in England now demand. In regard to 
 the use of acids for coagulating milk we have some interesting experiments! | 
 made by an English manufacturer, and detailed by him as follows : * 
 
 He procured four pints of milk of the same cow, having a-specific gravity 
 of 10.32; to one, rennet was added in the ordinary manner, to the second, tar- 
 taric acid, to the third, acetic acid, and to the fourth, hydro-chloric, or- 
 muriatic acid. After the lapse of about half-an-hour the curd had formed inl 
 the milk to which the rennet had been added. The curd and the whey 
 exhibited to test paper the slightest possible acid reaction, and both were 
 perfectly sweet to the taste ; further, it was observed that the curd was very 
 soft and readily broken up, while the serum or whey was somewhat white and 
 opaque, from the retention of a certain amount of the butter of the milk. 
 For the coagulation of the second pint of milk thirty-seven grains of tartaric 
 acid were required ; the coagulation was effected immediately on the addition 
 of the acid ; the whey and curd both exhibited to test paper a strong acid 
 reaction and were also perceptibly acid to the taste. The curd in this case 
 was firmer, and the whey clear and transparent, almost like water, showing 
 that the whole of the butter had been precipitated with the curd. 
 
 No less than one hundred and forty drops by measure of the acetic acid, 
 of weight or specific gravity, 10.46, were necessary to precipitate the whole 
 of the curd contained in the third pint of milk. The curd and whey pre- 
 sented nearly the same character as in the previous case. Of muriatic acid, 
 of specific gravity, 11.65, seventy-five drops were added before the whole of _ 
 the curd in the fourth pint of milk was thrown down ; the curd and whey I 
 were more decidedly acid than in the former cases. In other respects their 
 characters were nearly the same. The whey was carefully separated from 
 the curd in each case, when it was ascertained that those curds which had beenfl 
 formed by the addition of acids were heavier and more bulky than those 
 from the rennet. The curds were then well washed with brine ; this occa- 
 sioned some loss, especially of the rennet curd. The application of the brine 
 was made in order the more completely to separate the whey, rennet and 
 acids employed in the precipitation of the curds. Lastly, the curds were 
 salted and pressed into small cheeses, those made with the acids being the 
 largest. 
 
 AMOUNT OF ACIDS REQUIRED. 
 
 For the coagulation, then, of one gallon of milk, no less than five drachms 
 of tartaric acid, or rather more than two and one-fourth ounces of acetic acid, 
 or one and one-fourth ounces of muriatic acid would be required. The prices 
 of these would be about one-halfpenny, one penny, and one-half penny, ster- 
 ling, or very nearly, in American coin, one cent, two cents, and one cent. 
 The cost of these articles, therefore, it is evident, is an important element to 
 be considered. The cheese made with the acids were firmer, sharper to the 
 taste, and were of longer-keeping qualities than the one in the preparation 
 of which rennet was used ; but the last was richer and more delicate in flavor. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 359 
 
 the advantages of acids over eennet 
 would seem, from these experiments, to be that the yield of curd is some- 
 what greater ; that their operation is certain, and that the coagulation is 
 effected without loss of time. On the other hand, they are expensive, and 
 the flavor of the cheese is not equal to the standard now set up as fine in the 
 English markets ; that is, a cheese preserving unimpaired the combined flavor 
 of the caseine and butter of the milk. These expex-iments may be interesting 
 to cheese manufacturers, and may serve as a basis or guide for future experi- 
 ments, by those who are looking for a substance different from rennet for 
 coagulating milk in cheese-making. The acid usually employed by the Dutch 
 is muriatic acid. Some of the Dutch cheese is excellent, and is highly 
 relished by those who have acquired a taste for this character of cheese. 
 
 EENNETS. 
 
 There is a great deal of loose writing and bad advice about rennets. 
 There is a great difference in the strength of rennets, and so there is a great 
 difference in the action of living stomachs for digesting food. Some stom- 
 achs are naturally weak, or have less vital energy than others. This is of 
 frequent occurrence in the human family, and is not confined to it alone, but 
 extends to the brute creation. Calves that are delicate eaters, that have 
 weak stomachs and impaired digestion, yield weak rennets. It is the strong, 
 healthy, vigorous calf, and one that has a perfect digestive apparatus, that 
 will give a rennet of great strength. I have made some carefully conducted 
 experiments on this point, which have convinced me that one source, at 
 least, of weak rennets, is due to the cause I have named. There are other 
 causes, as when the stomachs have been improperly saved and prepared. 
 Many salt down the stomachs in a cask or tub. It is a very bad practice, 
 and has been the cause of a great deal of mischief in the dairy. The trouble 
 with salting down rennets and packing a considerable number together is 
 this : If one diseased or bad rennet gets into the cask, it communicates its 
 taint to the whole mass, and the leaven once having been added, develops 
 with wonderful rapidity, so soon as circumstances become favorable, — and 
 these circumstances do become favorable, when it is added to the milk at a 
 temperature as high as 80®. 
 
 WHAT CALVES TO TAKE EENNETS FEOM. 
 
 Rennets should only be saved from healthy calves ; from those that have 
 been allowed all the milk they will take for at least four days, and up to 
 within some twelve or fourteen hours of slaughter. A calf that has been 
 starved will be likely to have a diseased and inflamed stomach, and if it is 
 used for cheese-making it will most assuredly impair the flavor of the cheese, 
 A good, healthy stomach having been selected, the contents should be 
 emptied out and all specks wiped off. Then it should either be blown up 
 like a bladdei-, or slightly salted and stretched on a forked stick, and hung 
 up in a dry atmosphere, only moderately warm. 
 
360 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 IiEJSrJ!fETS BADLY PKEPARED. 
 
 Some cheese-makers prepare rennets badly, by soaking in wooden casks 
 or barrels. There are many tons of cheese spoiled in flavor every year 
 simply on this account. It is almost an impossibility to keep a wooden 
 vessel sweet that is used for steeping rennet. I have used the most scrupulous 
 care, over and over again, with Avooden vessels, and have never succeeded in 
 keeping them sweet for any considerable length of time. Rennet tubs and 
 rennets are often tainted when the cheese-maker is not aware of the fact. I 
 have frequently been called to examine cheese that was out of flavor, or 
 acting badly, with a view of discovering the difficulty, and have often found 
 the whole trouble to come from a tainted rennet cask. So important do I 
 consider this single point, that it may be laid down as a rule that no first- 
 class, high-flavored cheese can be made, for any considerable length of time, 
 where wooden casks are used for steeping rennets. 
 
 THE STEEPING VESSELS 
 
 should be of stone ware. They are manufactured now for the purpose, of 
 various sizes — of five, ten, twenty or more gallons. We give illustration of 
 
 the jar (Fig. 5). Farmers who have been so 
 unfortunate as to have had pork tainted in 
 the barrel, know how difficult it is to cleanse 
 the cask ; and many who have attempted 
 it have lost their pork, by packing in a 
 barrel that has once been tainted. Rennets 
 are more liable to taint, while steeping, than 
 salt meats, and common sense should teach us 
 that wooden vessels ought never to be employed 
 for the purpose. 
 
 STEEPING IN WHET. 
 
 Rennets are more efficient when steeped in 
 FiGUKE 5. whey ; but the whey should be free from taint 
 
 in the first instance, and then freed from its albuminous matter. Rennet 
 does not act on the albumen of milk, and this nitrogenous constituent passes 
 off in the whey. Albumen coagulates at a high temperature. By heating 
 the whey to boiling, the albuminous matter coagulates, and may be skimmed 
 off. This should be done soon after drawing the whey from the vats, and 
 before it has begun to ferment and putrefy. When whey is used for steeping 
 rennet, before it is freed from albumen, it is often decomposed and putrid, 
 and a very dangerous ferment is therefore added to the milk, which carries a 
 taint to the cheese. Some people save the whey that runs from the press in 
 which to steep rennets. This is a very bad practice. On putting cheese to 
 press, a whitish, milky substance often flows out at the first pressure. This 
 whey is probably highly charged with albumen. The whey having been 
 freed from its albumen, if set aside, makes a very sharp acid, and is alto- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. ■ 361 
 
 gether the best liquid for steeping rennet that has yet been discovered. It 
 is this purified whey that should be used for developing an acid condition of 
 the curds, when necessary. 
 
 After the rennets have been soaked, and rubbed to extract their strength 
 (and this will occupy several days, the rubbing being performed at least three 
 or four times), the liquor should then be strained off into a clean stone cask 
 or rennet jar, and is fit for use. The rennets are then to be put to soak again 
 with whey as at first, and are rubbed from time to time until their strength 
 is exhausted. They may then be taken out, washed in whey, and the liquor 
 added to that in the jar and the rennets thrown away. It is not a good prac- 
 tice to add new rennets to those that have been steeping, and thus keep a 
 batch of rennets in soak during the whole season, as there is more liability 
 of their becoming tainted ; and when their strength has once been exhausted 
 they are useless in the rennet jar, and it is better to have them out of it. 
 When sour whey is used for steeping but little salt is needed. The rennets 
 should not be allowed to float on the whey. By using a stone crock cover, 
 they may be kept at the bottom of the whey. 
 
 EXAMINE RENNETS DAILY. 
 
 I hardly need to add that rennets should be examined daily, while steep- 
 ing, and the liquor stirred to keep it sweet and free from taint. Nor should 
 the liquor be used from the crock where the rennets are steeping, before 
 being strained through a thin cloth, as small pieces rubbed from the skins 
 get into the milk, and are worked up into the curds. 
 
 PREPARING RENNET ENGLISH METHOD. 
 
 I have given what I consider the best method to be adopted by dairy- 
 men and at factories for the preparation of rennet for cheese-making. I now 
 give the method recommended in the best dairies of England, and it may be 
 found suggestive in many particulars. It is always an advantage to the 
 cheese that the rennet should be prepared some time before it is wanted for 
 use ; and English dairymen recommend that it should be made in February 
 or March, and that as large a quantity be provided as can be conveniently 
 done, consistently with the size of the dairy. They find large olive jars 
 useful for steeping the rennet, some of which will hold thirty gallons. A 
 hole is made at the bottom to draw the rennet, and they think it much better 
 to draw it in this way from the bottom, than to disturb it at the top by dip- 
 ping out. A wooden tap should be used, as the acidity of the liquid has an 
 injurious effect on a metal one. They have a piece of board with holes per- 
 forated in it to put into the jar under the veils or rennets, to prevent their . 
 getting to the bottom and obstructing the liquid running out by getting 
 against the taps. The rennet is prepared by first making a. brine strong 
 enough to bear an Qg^. It is then boiled for half an hour, and when quite 
 cold put into the jar. For every two gallons of brine six veils are added, 
 one lemon, sliced, and one ounce of saltpeter. They claim that rennet should 
 
362 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 always be prepared at least two months before using, and there will then be 
 less cause for the cheese to be affected with undue fermentation, which is 
 injurious to fine flavor. 
 
 ASSOCIATED DAIRYING. 
 
 The idea of associated dairying, as has been remarked, is claimed to have 
 originated in Europe. The system, it is true, has been practiced to some 
 extent in Switzerland and in France, but it differs materially from that of 
 this country. The European system grew out of a necessity. It was the 
 offspring of poverty rather than of wealth. The peasants of a neighborhood, 
 each having one or two cows, united them in one lai'ge herd. They employed 
 a herdsman in common, and sent him with the herd to the mountainous por- 
 tions of the Alps. Here the herdsman and his assistants take charge of the 
 cattle for a certain number of months, turning the milk into cheese, which, 
 at the end of the season, is divided among the owners of the cows, in propor- 
 tion to the number furnished by each. Cheese cannot be manufactured to 
 advantage from one or two cows ; but under this system the poorest peasant 
 makes the product- of his one cow compete successfully in the market with 
 that made from the large herds of the wealthy, since it is similar in shape 
 and quality. In other words, he has a merchantable article, which he could 
 not obtain singly and alone. 
 
 Now, the European system accomplished no grand results. It did not 
 spread, or become generally adopted among the nations. It developed no 
 new principle, either in the art of manufacturing the milk or in the economy 
 of laboi'-saving appliances. It attracted no particular attention, because it 
 developed nothing new. Associated dairying in America may be said to be 
 the first successful movement in this direction. What distinguishes the 
 American system is the constant effort to reduce the whole art and practice 
 of dairying to a science. The buildings, the appliances, the manipulations 
 in the various departments, are matters of study, and of progress and econ- 
 omy. The grand result sought is to make associated capital pay better than 
 non-associated capital. It is a new application of an old principle. It is 
 adapting the rule to farming that has been found successful in commerce and 
 manufactures. 
 
 THE POPULAE METHOD OF ORGANIZING FACTORIES, 
 
 and one which seems to give good satisfaction, is to make them joint-stock 
 concerns. The ground is selected, and an estimate made of buildings, 
 machinery and fixtures. The whole cost is then divided up into shares of 
 fifty to one hundred dollars each, and the neighboring farmers, or those favor- 
 able to the movement, take stock in proportion to the number of cows from 
 which they are to deliver milk. Officers are chosen, and the company man- 
 aged as a joint-stock company. "We give the following forms, as a guide to 
 companies about erecting factories, or for old factories which have been 
 operating without any written form or regulations : 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 363 
 
 FORM FOR CERTIFICATE OF STOCK. 
 
 Cream Cheese Dairy Manufacturing Company. 
 
 Organized 1865. 
 
 No. 1872. [cut] One Share. 
 
 It is hereby Certified^ That United States Grant is the propiHe- 
 tor of one share in the Capital Stock of the Cream Cheese Dairy Manufactur- 
 ing Company, each share being One Hundred Dollars, transferable ordy on the 
 books of tlie Company by the Stockholder, or by an Attorney duly constituted, on the 
 return of this Certificate. 
 
 In Testimony Whereof, the President and Secretary have hereunto set their 
 hands, at Lenox, this 2d day of February, 1871. 
 
 General Thomas, President. 
 John Ditto, Secretary. 
 
 The following form is printed on back of the certificate : 
 
 For Value Received, hereby sell and transfer to.: 
 
 . . . .Share of tlie within mentioned stock, and do hereby countenance and appoint. 
 Attorney to transfer the same on the books of tJie Company. 
 
 Witness, luind and seal , this day of 187. . 
 
 rules for organizing factories. 
 
 "We, the undersigned, hereby agree and unite ourselves into a body or association for the purpose of 
 erecting and building a Cheese Factory, and for the purpose also of running said factory to make cheese 
 from the milk which shall or may be brought in from time to time to said factory by members of the asso- 
 ciation and other persons, to be made or manufactured into cheese at a certain price for the work and 
 materials expended from time to time, to be fixed by the association. 
 
 Said building or manufactory is to be one hundred feet by thirty-four in size, and three stories high, 
 to be built of good and substantial materials, and suitable and convenient in its arrangements for the pur- 
 pose intended, and is to be located on the land of 
 
 It shall be known by the name and style of , and it is agreed by and 
 
 between the parties to these presents, that they shall and will at all times during the continuance of such 
 association bear, pay and discharge equally between them, all cost of building said factory, and all rents 
 and other expenses, and for liired help that may be required for the support and management of the said 
 business ; and that all gains, profits and increase that shall come, grow or arise from or by means of the 
 said business, shall be divided between them, said association, share and share alike ; and all loss that shall 
 happen to them in said joint business, by all commodities, or by bad debts or otlierwise, shall be borne 
 and paid equally between them ; and there shall be kept just and true books of account and entry of the 
 resolutions and doings of said association, showing the true state of the operations of said association by 
 reason or on account of said business, and all matters and things whatsoever to the said business and 
 management thereof in any wise belonging ; which said books shall be used in common between the 
 members of said association, so that either of them may have access thereto without any interruption or 
 hindrance of the other. 
 
 And it is hereby further agreed that all questions arising as to the way and manner of conducting said 
 business and as to the person or persons to be employed as help by the association, and all and every matter 
 of interest, of whatever thing or nature, to the association, shall always, in case of dispute, be decided by 
 a majority vote, which shall be entered of record and the time for the continuance of said association or 
 
 of any member thereof, and entry of any new member shall, in case of dispute, be decided in 
 
 the same way, and recorded. 
 
 In witness whereof, the parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals, this 
 
 day of 18 
 
 ANOTHER FORM FOR ORGANIZING. 
 
 Article I. This Association shall be known as the Dairy Manufacturing Company. 
 
 Art. n. The business of this association shall be under the direction and control of a Board of 
 three Directors, There shall also be a Secretary and Treasurer ; all of which shall hold their respective 
 offices one year, and until others are elected. 
 
 Art. HI. The annual meeting of this company shall be held on the first Saturday in January of each 
 year, at the cheese house belonging to this company, at two o'clock, P. M., at which time the officers 
 authorized by the second article shall be elected, and any and all business connected with this company shall 
 be lawfully transacted — each share of stock being entitled to one vote. 
 
364 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Akt. rV. At said annual meeting said directors shall make a report in ■writing of the financial 
 condition of the company, showing all moneys received and expended by said directors. 
 
 Art. V. The Secretary shall keep a record of all meetings of the company, for the examination of 
 stockholders ; also a list of stockholders and of all transfer of stock reported him. 
 
 Abt. VI. It shall be the duty of the President of the Board of Directors, in connection with the 
 Secretary, to issue certificates of the capital stock of the company to each shareholder — each share to be 
 one hundred dollars ; also to issue new certificates in case of transfer, to the party purchasing the same, all 
 of which shall be duly numbered, dated and recorded. 
 
 Art. VII. All sale or transfer of the capital stock of this company shall be in writing, and be reported 
 to the Secretary within thirty days after such sale or transfer, or be of no binding form on the company. 
 
 Art. VIII. All moneys paid by the Treasurer shall be by the consent of the Directors, and on the 
 written order of the President of such Board of Directors. 
 
 Art. IX. Any stockholder refusing or failing to promptly pay any and all assessments made on his 
 stock (not exceeding one hundred dollars on each share) within the time ordered, shall forfeit to the company 
 any and all payments formerly made, but nothing in the article shall release such delinquent stockholder 
 from a suit at law for the recovery of any assessments due and unpaid by him. 
 
 Art. X. The Directors shall not incumber or impair otherwise the property of this company. 
 
 Art. XI. A special meeting may be held in pursuance of a call of the Directors in writing to be filed 
 with the Secretary, giving at least (7) seven days' notice of the time and place of such meeting ; and it shall 
 be the duty of the Secretary, in case of such notice of a special meeting being delivered to him, to post 
 in (3) three public places, and also an the cheese house front door, a written notice of the time and place of 
 such meeting. It shall also be the duty of the Secretary to give notice of the annual meeting of the com- 
 pany, by posting (3) three notices as provided for a special meeting. 
 
 Art. XII. The capital stock of this company shall be Three Thousand Dollars, in shares of One 
 Hundred Dollars each. 
 
 Art. XIII. The foregoing By-Laws, or any one of them, may be repealed or amended at any annual 
 meeting, by a majority vote of the stock represented, there being not less than sixteen shares represented 
 at such meeting. 
 
 CKEAM CHEESE DAIRY MANUFACTURING CO. NOTICE TO PATRONS. 
 
 The Directors are happy to announce to the public that they have secured the valuable services of 
 Mr. Wm. Shakspeare, and that they will be prepared to commence the manufacture of Cheese on Monday, 
 April 12th, upon the following 
 
 TERMS : 
 
 1, Two Dollars, Twelve and one-half Cents per Hundred Pounds (to be deducted from the 
 receipts at eacn sale), and one good rennet for each four hundred pounds of cheese ; which shall include 
 manufacturing, curing, furnishing and ordinary expense, delivering the cheese at the door of the dry house 
 ready for market. 
 
 S. The company will not be responsible for any loss by fire, theft, or other similar cause. 
 
 3. It is expressly understood that every person sending milk to this Factory will conform to the 
 following 
 
 REGULATIONS : 
 
 1. All milk to be received for manufacture must be carefully strained and brought to the factory in 
 a tin can without faucet, pure and sweet. 
 
 2. Any milk which by reason of negligence, uncleanliness or other cause, is not in suitable condition 
 for use WILL be rejected if discovered before it is let into the vat. 
 
 3. If any person shall bring milk which has been skimmed, watered, or otherwise tampered with in 
 a manner forbidden by law, then upon obtaining proof sufficient to convict the ofiender, the directors will 
 prosecute such person and will not compromise or settle only as he pays the full penalty of the law and 
 
 ALL DAMAGE ACCRUING FROM HIS OFFENSE, 
 
 4. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer, at least once in each week, to carefully test the milk from 
 each and every dairy, and in case he shall find any that has been skimmed or watered or otherwise in viola- 
 tion of law, shall at once report the same to the dii-ectors, and to no other person, and they will then take 
 such measures as they think expedient to obtain conclusive proof against the offender. 
 
 5. It is necessary that milk should be delivered at the factory before eight o'clock in the morning of 
 each day, and the manufacturer will not be required to receive it after that time. 
 
 6. Each patron may take from the factory his share of whey in proportion each day to the amount 
 of milk delivered the day previous ; the-quantity to be regulated by the manufacturer. 
 
 7. These regulations shall apply to each director in all respects the same as to any other patron. 
 
 DAN'L WEBSTER, ) 
 HENRY CLAY, ^Directors. 
 Cbeam Hill, N. Y., April 10th, 1871. J. C. CALHOUN, ) 
 
 SELLING THE CHEESE. 
 
 Usually a committee or some one person selected from the patrons, is 
 chosen as salesman of the cheese, whose duty it is to make sales at best prices 
 to be had, to arrange dividends and to pay over shares to patrons, deducting 
 of course the price per pound for manufacturing, which is made to cover all, 
 including the per cent, on cost of buildings and fixtures. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365 
 
 CERTIFICATE OF SALE. 
 
 The accompanying form should be filled out to be given to each patron at 
 the time of paying over his share of proceeds ; a book of printed blanks 
 being provided for the purpose : 
 
 form of blank. 
 
 Old Salisbury Cheese Factory, 1871. 
 
 Sale No No. of Cheese sold, Price sold for Whole 
 
 amount of Cheese sold lbs. Milk Comprising Cheese from 
 
 to both days included. Pounds of Milk required for one pound of Cheese 
 
 DIVIDEND TO 
 
 Pounds of Milk, Pounds of Cheese, Amounts due2 cts. per lb. 
 
 for making, &c., deducted, % 
 
 , Salesman. 
 
 PAYIlSrG the MANUFACTURER BY THE POUND. 
 
 Sometimes a good cheese-maker is employed as manufacturer and manager, 
 at a certain price per pound of the cheese manufactured. This manager 
 employs his laborers or assistants, and bears all expense of running the factory, 
 taking care of cheese, keeping record of milk delivered daily by different 
 patrons, entering the same on the books of the factory, and upon the pass- 
 books of patrons. Often the Company employ the manufacturer and all hands 
 at fixed salaries. Some prefer one plan and some another. The milk is 
 weighed at the factory when delivered, and as experience has shown that 
 every ten pounds of milk (as an average for the season) should make one 
 pound of cured cheese, firm, solid and in good marketable condition, each 
 farmer thus has a daily record in his pass-book of what his herd is yielding. 
 The manager is employed with the understanding that he is to make a good, 
 fair article, and his product is examined from time to time by committees, by 
 experts, and by patrons as they see fit, and thus bad work is soon detected. 
 If the management is not satisfactory the cheese-maker is discharged, or the 
 causes of the bad work traced out and rectified. 
 
 The stock-holders, and those delivering milk may meet from time to time 
 and deliberate as to sales ; each one voting according to the number of cows 
 from which he delivers milk, and in this way instructions are issued to the 
 salesman. 
 
 FACTORY OWNED AND MANAGED BY ONE PERSON. 
 
 Then there is another method of establishing factories. One man or a 
 company erects buildings and bears all expenses of running the factory, charg- 
 ing by the pound of cured cheese for manufacturing. The cheese in this 
 instance, it will be seen, belongs to patrons, who appoint a salesman and con- 
 trol the product precisely as under the other method. We give a form of 
 rules and regulations applicable to such cases ; also to cases where the pro- 
 prietor of a factory pui'chases the milk of patrons. Of course these rules 
 may be varied to meet the views of persons in different localities. 
 
3G6 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 EULES AND REGULATIONS FOK THE GOVERNMENT OF THE SINCLEARYILLE 
 
 CHEESE FACTORY. 
 
 I. The proprietor of the factory is to make and take care of the cheese, furnish boxes salt 
 swathing, coloring matter, box and weigh the cheese, mark the boxes, make out bills tally out 
 cheese lo ciieese drawers, keep the books, receive the cheese and tally the same at the point of 
 delivery, receive the money tor the cheese and disburse the same among the patrons, for the sum 
 of two cents (.02) per pound; this includes patrons sending milk Ave months. Psitrons .sending 
 milk four months and less than five months will be charged two cents and one mill (.031) per pound 
 Patrons sending milk three months and less than lour months will be charged two cents and two' 
 mills (.023) per pound. Patrons sending milk less than three months will be chareed two cents 
 and three mills (.023) per pound for manufacturing, ^u^igeu iwo cents 
 
 II. Each patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish one good calf rennet, in good order 
 to each cow's milk sent to the factory, or pay the sum of fifteen cents in lieu thereof. ' 
 
 in. Each patron shall have such proportion of the money received for the cheese as his 
 milk bears to the whole quantity furnished by patrons during the time he sends milk to the factorv 
 (always subject to part first). ' 
 
 IV. Each patron shall furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk, and ench one furnishing milk 
 shall strain the same before it is delivered at the factory, and if any is reserved for use, it shall be 
 of an average quality given by his cows. 
 
 V. The milk of each patron delivered at the factory shall be properly tested once in each 
 month during the season, and the result shall be publicly stated to those patrons requiring the same. 
 
 VI. Any patron that knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his milk in any form, or takes 
 out the strippings, shall forfeit the sum of iwenty-flve dollars for the first offense, and the sum of 
 fifty dollars for the second otfense, and for the third offense he shall forfeit his whole interest in 
 the factory. If his interest does not amount to seventy-five dollars, he shall pay the proprietor 
 enough to make seventy-five dollars. All forfeit money received shall be disbursed among the 
 patrons interested in tne same, in proportion to their interest. When such facts come to the 
 knowledge of the proprietor, he shall retain the money received for cheese, and dispose of as 
 aforesaid. 
 
 VII. No milk shall be worked into cheese which, In the judgment of the manufacturer, will 
 be a damage to the general interest of the patrons. 
 
 VIII. Each patron shall bring his milk as often as the manufacturer shall require, and at or 
 before the time he may require, and all cans must be washed and scalded daily, and kept sweet 
 and clean. ^ 
 
 IX. Each patron shall be to his proportion of the expense of getting the cheese to market. 
 
 X. There shall be a coiimittee on sale of cheese, said committee to consist of three persons 
 having interest in the cheese. The committee shall be Wili,iam Reed, Fordyce Sylvester and 
 John D. Barger. Said committee shall have power to sell the cheese once in each week, if in 
 their judgment they think best, and shall see that the cheese is delivered according to contract. 
 
 XI. That each patron who has a load of cheese at the time of sale shall be notified bv com- 
 mittee on sale of cheese, and if such patron fail to appear at the time specified in the notice, he 
 shall pay all extra necessary expenses and damages for the delivery or failure of the same. 
 
 XII. There shall be a committee on whey ; that committee shall be composed of three pat- 
 rons, namely, Henry Dunbar, Thomas Speak, Russell, Sears. 
 
 XIII. Any patron may take his proportion of whey and dispose of the same ns he sees fit, 
 providing he notifies the whey committee in writing of the same on or before he sends his milk to 
 the factory, providing he draws his whey from the bottom of the whey vat; otherwise he will 
 have to stand the loss or gain in proportion to his milk sent to the factory. No patron shall take 
 "■i?^'!?'/*^*^,^'® ^^'"^"^ two-thirds as much in bulk of whey as he sends milk to the factory. No patron 
 enall feed whey to cows when milk is sent to the factory. 
 
 . ^ XI'^- The whey committee shall have power to dispose of the balance of the whey to the 
 best general interest and advantage of the patrons, in their judgment. 
 
 XV. That the profit or loss on whey shall be divided or assessed on the patrons owning the 
 same, in proportion to the amount of milk sent to the factory. 
 
 , ^■^^■^" '^^^ proprietor agrees to make the whey butter, and furnish sufficient to oil the cheese, 
 tne balance to be divided— the patrons to have one-third and the proprietor two-thirds of the 
 profits, the proprietor to furnish salt and tubs. 
 
 XVII. Resolved, That all cheese sold shall be paid for on delivery. 
 
 , ^ ^yill- The proprietor shall take care of the cheese up to the first of December. If kept 
 later, a fair compensation is to be allowed him. 
 
 XIX. Each person furnishing milk to the factory is hereby understood as agreeing to the 
 
 , Chairman. 
 
 , Clerk. 
 
 , Proprietor. 
 
 EULES POE FACTORY WHERE THE PROPRIETOR PURCHASES THE MILK OF 
 
 PATRONS. 
 
 ill ^i 77 ~ < Proprietor of the Cheese Factory, agrees as follows : To purchase the 
 
 milk of the said Patons of the Cheese Factory for the year 1871, and to commence making 
 
 cheese on or about the first of April, and close on or about the first of November next. 
 
 II. For value received, T promise to pay to each patron of the Cheese Factorv. for his 
 
 or her milk, as follows : As much per pound for his or her milk as the milk of any factory they 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 367 
 
 ^L°H.f f!^f *l**^?"^.^^''!f JI?®y ''educt expenses for making: and furnishing and gettinff the cheese 
 'XlnsZ'^^^l'oTj^^^l^^^Lr^l^^^^^^^ "' addition, and take the Ixilk a^t the ^act^o^^.th^ 
 
 taiaerho,7m;rcir;acl ' mo.ft!.Vmflk ll CT ^'' "^'^^^'"'^^ °f °^«°ey as soon as it can be ascer- 
 
 IV. The patrons are to choose, on or before the first day of June, one of the following facto- 
 ries for a basis to make our estimates on, namely: Charlotte Center, Arkwright UniorT, Clear 
 Spring:, Walnut Creek or Hamlet Factory. The factory chosen shall be by a v< te of patn/ns at a 
 meeting called tor that purpose. The meeting is to be called by the proprietor at any time when 
 twoor more of the patrons may direct. ux 0.1. aujr uuio wuen 
 
 V. Each patron may talie his proportion of the whey away ; that is, two-thirds as miioh In 
 bulk as he or she sends milk to the factory. If he or she takes their whey aAvay the v wilTnot be 
 entitled to the benefit of the three per cent., but will be entitled to all othlr tenlfits that anv 
 
 o„„», J^* f^^^- patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk and 
 each one furnishing- milk shall strain the same at the time of milkiAg, and if anvis reseived IV.7- 
 use It shall be of the average quality given by his or her cows. ^ ^®^ ^^' 
 
 fr. ^^h ,-^"'*' P'^t™" *'iat knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his or her milk in anv wnv or 
 
 of r.^ l^f^^f 'l'? P®^:^''" I'll'! brinsr his or her milk as often as the manufacturer shall require and 
 dii'?;,^^n'd^^bU'rpt'^'^L^!.n'S^cffl"'^^'^"" "" ^^'^^ ^"^ -"^ »^-'^ -"^^ be washed a^r?Qor 
 
 Figure 31.— Plan 1. Figuee 31.— Plan 2. 
 
 Plan 3d shows vats connected to a heater placed in front of them, which can 
 be either right or left. The feed-door can be placed at either end of heater. 
 Many other advantages are claimed for this apparatus besides those previ- 
 ously mentioned, but the following is the most important, viz., the manner 
 of applying the heat. The heating pipes, or those that distribute the hot 
 water in the vat, enter and extend through the vat, on each side of the tin 
 
394 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry, 
 
 milk holder, thus clifFasing the heated water equally along the sides of it. 
 The lower or cold water pipe is attached to the bottom of the vat, and as 
 through this pipe the water is continually passing out to the coil, the warmer 
 water is gradually drawn under the tin vat ; thus the 
 bottom is at no time but a little warmer than the 
 milk or curd inside, while the majority of the heat 
 is transmitted through the sides of the tin vat. 
 This is at all times a great desideratum, but especially 
 in the operation of " cooking the curd," as the curd, 
 after it is cut, settles to the bottom. In this appa- 
 ratus the majority of the heat is imparted to the 
 curd by means of the whey, which receives its 
 heat from the sides of the vat; at the same time 
 sufficient heat is imparted to the curd that lays on 
 the bottom to keep it of an equal temperature with 
 the rest. 
 
 These heaters (Fig. 32) are made in a portable 
 form ; they are constructed on the same principle as 
 the stationary apparatus, except that they are porta- Figfee 31— Plan a 
 
 ble ; their position can be changed at any time. The heater is inclosed in a 
 cast-iron stove, instead of brick work. In the two smallest sizes this stove 
 is lined with fire brick, to prevent loss of heat by radiation into the room. 
 
 FiGmtB 
 
 The two largest sizes have a lining of common brick work, laid up on the 
 the inside of the castings, for the same purpose. They require but a small 
 amount of fuel, burn either wood or soft coal, and can be used for many 
 
Practical Uairy Husbandry. 
 
 395 
 
 other purposes besides cheese-making. They are especially useful for steam- 
 ing and cooking feed for stock. When arranged for this purpose, the o-eneral 
 
 construction of the heater is the same. The only difference is that a check- 
 valve (see Fig. 33) is substituted for the lower stop-cock to the tank, and 
 
396 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the pipe furnishing the hot water or steam, instead of extending out hori- 
 zontally, is carried up perpendicularly, and a steam separator is attached, to 
 which the steam pipes are connected. The principle of its operation is this : 
 When the stop-cock in the upper pipe is open, the water in the tank circu- 
 
 FlGURE 34. 
 
 lates through the coil, and is heated in the same manner as in the cheese vat 
 heaters ; but when steam is desired this stop-cock is closed, the return of the 
 water to the tank is thus cut off, and it remains in the heater until steam is 
 
 Figure 35. 
 
 generated, when the mixed steam and water are driven up into the separator ; 
 the water, beimg separated, runs back into the tank, and the steam passes off 
 through the pipes to the desired points. This will continue as long as the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 397 
 
 stop-cock is open. During this operation, the coil is fed with water from the 
 tank, through the lower pipe. 
 
 "We give also in this connection an illustration of the vat and heater for 
 farm dairies, called the Oneida Farm Vat (see Fig. 34.) 
 
 enders 
 
 dinary 
 
 PAOTOKY MILK CANS. 
 
 These cans are constructed with a conical bottom (Fig. 35), which r 
 them very durable and strong, and does not add anything to the or 
 weight of the can. A solid tinned 
 or galvanized iron band, with a 
 projecting lip for the support of 
 the can, encloses this bottom, at- 
 tached by soldering. This ren- 
 ders it durable. We also give a 
 cut of the Iron Clad milk can, 
 (Fig. 36), which is stoutly made. 
 
 MILK CAN" HANDLES. 
 
 These handles (Figs. 37 and 
 38) are made especially for com- 
 bining a convenient handle for 
 carrying or lifting a cheese fac- 
 tory carrying can, with another 
 for the purpose of dumping or 
 tipping it when a crane is used. 
 Tliey are made so as to embrace 
 or inclose the band, which is 
 usually placed near the center 
 of the can, thus attaching them 
 to the strongest and stiffest part 
 of the can. The new pattern 
 (Fig. 37) is adapted to either the 
 ordinary hooks, or the straight 
 or squarely bent hooks or tongs 
 used in some localities, which re- 
 quire a hole or socket to fit them. 
 The old pattern (Fig. 38) is only 
 adapted to the ordinary lifting hooks. Another form of can handle is shown 
 at Fig. 39. It consists of a broad, malleable iron plate fitted to the curvature 
 of the side of the can, for riveting thereto ; having a flanged socket and knob, 
 also a hinged handle for lifting by hand ; which handle, when not in use, 
 drops to the side of the can. This arrangement is adapted for hoisting and 
 tipping the can, to empty from the top, to any and every device used for the 
 purpose ; whether hinged bail with hooks to fit the socket, common hook or 
 simple ring, fitting the outside of the barrel, neither of which can slip or 
 
 Figure 36. 
 
398 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 unhook, and either of which will allow a complete revolution of the can. 
 The plate tends to strengthen and protect the can while being hoisted. The 
 projection of the socket and knob being bnt three-quarters of an inch outside 
 of the handle, it is not liable to be broken or to jam surrounding cans while 
 
 FiGUEE 37. Figure 38. Figure 39. 
 
 being carried. The handles represented at Figs. 40 and 41 are designed to 
 be used on the Iron Clad can (Fig. 36). 
 
 FACTORY WEIGHING CAN. 
 
 The cut (Fig. 42) represents a tin weighing can for receiving the milk as 
 it is brought to the factory. This can stands on the scales, and each patron's 
 
 Figure 40— Cover Handle. Figure 41— Side Handm;. 
 
 milk is emptied into it, weighed, and then allowed to run to the vats. The 
 bottom is made to incline to the faucet or gate, which is extra large, generally 
 about three inches in diameter, so that it is emptied very rapidly. A con- 
 ductor head (shown in Fig. 43) is placed in front of the faucet to prevent the 
 milk from spattering and to conduct it to the vats. The tube or pipe on the 
 end can be extended to any required length, though if more than three or 
 four feet long, it should be an open trough. Fig. 44 shows an extra strong, 
 large, weigh-can gate, having guides to steady and regulate the handle. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandrf. 
 
 399 
 
 CHEESE PRESSES. 
 
 One of the most convenient j^resses for farm dairies is tlie Oyston's Her- 
 kimer County Press, illustrated in Fig. 45. 
 
 Description. — Between the upper beams of the stout wooden frame two 
 sectors, E E, are hung by wrought iron journals in iron boxes inserted in the 
 beams. One of these sectors is geared on the inside and the other on the 
 outside. They are operated by a pinion, the shaft of which passes through 
 
 FiGUBE 42. Figure 43. 
 
 the front beam, and on which the ratchet wheel, F, is fastened. Next to the 
 ratchet the end of the lever, G, plays loosely, and then the crank is secured 
 with a pin, which also keeps the lever in its place. The pitmen, or toggle 
 levers, I) D, are four in number ; their upper ends are secured on wrought-iron 
 journals, cast solid in the sectors, and their bottom ends are pivoted to the 
 follower, and work in iron boxes. The follower, A, slides up and down 
 between the posts, and is kept perfectly steady. To operate the press the 
 lever, G, is raised and a dog at the back of the 
 lever, which plays on a strong pivot, is hooked on 
 to a pin in the beam and holds the lever up. The 
 dog, H, is then turned back so that its other end 
 shall take into the ratchet below the center ; the 
 sectors, follower, &c., are then run iip with the 
 crank and held up by the dog, H ; the cheese is 
 then put in, the dog, H, turned to the position 
 as now represented; the lever is then raised, which unhooks the lever 
 dog and allows it to take into the rachet. Then press the lever down, or 
 hang a weight and leave it as you please. The follower and sectors are rep- 
 resented about halfway down; the journals on which the strain comes move 
 but one-quarter of a revolution as at each operation of pressing, which con- 
 sumes little power and produces little wear, Avhile the pinion makes over 
 three revolutions, which gives the end of the lever a traverse of over eighty- 
 six feet. 
 
 FlGTIEB 44. 
 
400 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 FACTORY PRESSES. 
 
 The presses at the factories (Fig. 46) are generally quite similar in con- 
 struction, and, except the iron screw and its fittings, are usually made upon 
 the spot by some carpenter. These presses are not patented, and are so 
 
 FiGUKE 45. 
 
 simple in construction that any one handy with tools can do the wood work 
 for less money than their cost of transportation over long distances. The 
 wooden frames should be made of well seasoned timber, and the parts of 
 sufficient size to be strong, so as not to spring or warp. The sills for holding 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 401 
 
 tlie hoops are about fifteen inches Avide and four inches thick, and the beams 
 ten inches by six inches thick. The posts are of the same tliickness, and of 
 the width of the sill at the bottom, slanting to the width of the beam at the 
 top. The posts should be about four feet ten inches long. The sill and beam 
 are let into the posts say about a half to three-quarters of an inch. The sills 
 stand about tAvp feet from the floor, and the beams are about two feet five 
 inches above the sills. The posts are set about two feet apart, which gives a 
 space of two feet by two feet five inches for the hoop. Iron rods with nut and 
 screw for the ends are used for holding the Avood Avork firmly in place, and 
 six or eight frames or presses may 
 be connected together. Fig. 46 
 gives their general appearance. 
 
 CHEESE PRESS SCEBAVS. 
 
 "While for private dairies lever 
 presses are still used to some ex- 
 tent, the scrcAV jDresscs have been 
 universally adopted by cheese fac- 
 torymen. The screAvs are usually 
 placed in benches of six or eight. 
 These benches, as Ave haA^e re- 
 marked, are made very strong, 
 fiom heavy timber, Avith bolts, to 
 hold them from spreading, betAveen 
 each screw. The ordinary screAV 
 has tAvo holes diilled in its hub, 
 and is turned by means of a round 
 iron bar. Ratchet screAVS are much 
 more convenient, but, as usually 
 made, are very objectionable, on Figuee 46- 
 
 account of their complication, thereby allowing the collection of whey 
 and dirt, causing them to rust and smell badly ; they are also con- 
 stantly getting out of order. Thj illustrations (Figs. 47 and 48) show an 
 improved Ratchet Cheese Press ScrcAA^, Avhich is said to entirely overcome 
 these objections. The scrcAv is thus constructed : A toothed or ratchet 
 Avheel is firmly attached to the scrcAV, leaving about an inch space betAveen 
 the top of the flange and the loAver side of the wheel. A lever, to which is 
 attached the pawl of the ratchet, is made to fit in this space, thus when 
 attached completing the ratchet. But as this lever can be readily removed 
 from or attached to the scrcAV, by merely pressing back the pawl, one lever 
 can be made to answer for all screws in a fixctory. It Avill thus be seen that 
 this arrangement combines all the advantages of the ordinary ratchet screw, 
 with the simplicity, strength and cleanliness of the common plain screw. 
 The pawl attached to the lever is made Avide enough to turn the ratchet 
 26 
 
402 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 wheel, when placed either side up ; thus it can be readily adjusted to either 
 raise or lower the screw. The screw, when relieved of pressure, can be 
 
 Figure 47. Fisueb 48. 
 
 rapidly raised or lowered, by means ol a malleable iron handle, made 
 expressly for this purpose (see Fig. 49). The flange of this screw is made 
 very heavy and strong, and has an extra deep socket, in which the lower end 
 
 FlGUKB 49. FlSUEE 50. 
 
 of the screw is carefully fitted, so that the flange cannot tip in the least, but 
 will press the cheese true and even. Both the handle and lever of these 
 
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 403 
 
 screws are gulvanized, wliich is quite important, as the salt and acid in the 
 curd and whey will rust them badly. If the common screws are used, the 
 iron bai's for running them should always be galvanized, for the same reasons. 
 Another pattern of these screws (shown at Fig. 50) is simple in construc- 
 tion, consisting of a screw of refined wrought iron, attached to and turning 
 in a heavy cast base, also a heavy cast nut through which the screw works, 
 for fastening into the beam of the j^ress. The screws are turned by means 
 of a wrought iron bar inserted into holes in the collar of the screw. They 
 are usually of two sizes — one and three-fourths inches and one and a-half 
 inches in diameter. The one and three-fourths inch screw is in extreme 
 length twenty inches ; has thirteen inches length of screw thread ; four holes 
 in collar for inserting a seven-eighths inch bar, and a base nine inches in 
 diameter. The one and a-half inch screw is in entire length eighteen inches ; 
 length of screw thread, eleven and a-half inches ; four holes in collar for 
 three-fourths inch bar, and eight inch diameter of base. The grade and 
 pitch of screw are calculated for the most rapid motion compatible with 
 strength, great power and ease of working. 
 
 iiT^ 
 
 Figure 51. 
 
 feazer's ganvj cheese press. 
 This press is constructed horizontally, and presses any given number of 
 cheese, Avith a single ratchet screw set in movable head-blocks^ so as to repeat 
 when run out its length. The cheeses are placed upon their edges in metallic 
 hoops, made in sections, with heads or covers of the same material, not 
 liable to shrink or swell, forming a complete box, the sections sliding 
 together as the pressing is performed, finishing the cheese at one operation. 
 The advantages claimed for it are : 1st. It saves the labor of one man, 
 where a large number of cheese are made. 2d. It takes xip less than one- 
 half the room of the old j^resses. 3d. The hoops are so constructed that the 
 air and whey escape as soon as pressure is applied. This is an advantage 
 not appreciated heretofore. 4th. The hoops also make a perfectly smooth, 
 rounding edge. 5th. The clieese are pressed in bandage at once — no turning 
 in press, nor particle of trimming. This alone saves much labor. 6th It 
 wdll press any number of cheese as perfectly as one. 7th. It presses perfectly 
 
404 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 even, and cannot clo otherwise, if the press and hoops are made true. 8th. 
 The pressing is so gradual, on a large number of cheese, that there is no 
 curd forced off with the whey, as is the case with the single cheese press, 
 .9th. The pressing is tmiform ; as one is pressed against the other, therefore 
 
 Figure 52. 
 
 all must 1)8 pressed exactly alike. 10th. A weight is attached to the lever 
 to continue pressing, or indicate when manipulation is necessary. 11th. 
 When the screw is reversed sufficiently to relieve one cheese, they will . all 
 come out, saving much labor running screws up and down, as in the ordinary 
 press. 12tb. The hoops are made in sections for bandaging and contracting, 
 
 dispensing with all followers and bot- 
 
 tom boards. Figs. 51 and 52 illus- 
 trate these presses. 
 
 CHEESE PRESS HOOPS. 
 
 The hoops for pressing cheese 
 were formerly, and are still, to a 
 large extent, made from wood, but 
 the last few seasons galvanized iron 
 hoops (see Fig. 53) have been intro- 
 duced to a great extent, and are bet- 
 
 FlGUEE 53. . .L mi T 
 
 ter on many accounts. They do not 
 shrink or swell, absorb no whey, and the cheese slips out more readily. 
 
 RUBBER PRESS RINGS. 
 
 A source of considerable trouble and annoyance to cheese-makers is the 
 shrinking and swelling of the cheese followers ; if they fit loosely, the curd 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 405 
 
 will press up, thereby making it necessary to trim it off, thus causing a 
 waste of cheese. Figs. 54 and 55 illustrate an invention designed to over- 
 come this difficulty. Fig. 54 shows a cheese hoop cut in two perpendicularly. 
 A, represents the cheese hoop ; B, the follower ; C, the cheese ; E and F, 
 rubber washers or rings. One of these rubber rings (Fig. 55) is placed on 
 the inside of the cheese hoop, resting on the press board below the curd or 
 cheese. The other is placed above the cheese, directly under the follower. 
 
 FlGUKB 54. 
 
 FlQUKE 55. 
 
 As soon as the pressure is applied, it causes the rubber rings to expand and 
 fit tight to the hoops, preventing the curd from pressing either up around 
 the follower or out underneath the bottom of the hoop. By using these 
 rubber rings, the followers may fit the hoops very loosely. They are very 
 valuable in using for the second pressing after the bandage has been put on ; 
 the rings then prevent the bandage bursting at the edge, which has always 
 been a great annoyance, as it allows the flies to get in, producing skippers 
 in a place whence they can scarcely ever be gotten out. 
 
 Figure 56. 
 
 HOOPS AND WOODEN PEESS KINGS. 
 
 Hoops and wooden press rings are usually made of staves and hard wood 
 (see Fig. 56) doubled together and banded with riveted or welded bands* 
 Hoops of heavy sheet iron, galvanized, with a welded band at top and bottom, 
 are now generally preferred. The illustration (Fig. 56) is a perpendicular 
 section of a wood hoop and press rings, showing the position of the rings in 
 pressing, also a ring separate. The hoop is shown resting upon the press 
 board, in which are seen the channels for conducting ofl" the whey. A is the 
 
406 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 follower, with its edge slightly beveled, corresponding with one side of the 
 upper or triangular ring, b. The lower ring, c, is in its section a right-angled 
 triangle, and is seen in its place at the bottom of the hoop, though by some 
 this ring is not considered necessary. D is the upper ring shown out of the 
 hoop. These rings are made of hard and tough wood by machinery, which 
 
 FiGUEE 57. Figure 58. 
 
 smoothly rives them into'a three-cornered shape and forms them into circles, 
 so as to tightly fit the inner surface of the hoop, with ends butted together. 
 The manner of using is: first place the hoop on the press board, insert the 
 lower ring, press it down till it is flat upon the board, put in the curd, insert 
 
 FiGTmE59. Figure 60. Figure 61. 
 
 the upper ring just below the top of the hoop, put on the follower, and it is 
 i-eady for the press. On removing the cheese from the hoop the rings slip 
 out with it. After bandaging put in the cheese and the upper ring, forcing 
 it down to the cheese, insert the follower and apply the pressure. By this 
 means nothing but the whey can pass the rings, the corners of the cheese are 
 left perfect, and the edge of the bandage is firmly impressed ; no press cloth 
 is required, though some prefer a small round cloth for top and bottom. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 407 
 
 CAST-STEEL DAIRY KNIVES FOR CUTTING UP THE CURD 
 
 are differently arranged and mounted. They are of two kinds, the perpen- 
 dicular and the horizontal (Figs. 57 and 58). The perpendicular is designed 
 to pass through the vat, cutting up the curd into columns. Then the horizontal, 
 passing through, cuts the columns into cubes. These knives are manufactured 
 of sixteen, eighteen and twenty inch lengths, and from four to thirty blades 
 each — to cut perpendicularly. The blades are now tin plated. From four to 
 fifteen blades, the blades are half an inch apart; the twenty-blade knives are 
 three-eighths of an inch, and the thirty-blade knives quarter of an inch apart. 
 The four to six blades inclusive have handles on top of head, as in illustration 
 Fig. 59. The seven to thirteen blades have handle on side of head as in Fig. 
 60. The twenty and thirty blades have handles on both side and top of 
 head, as shown on the horizontal cutting knife in the illustration. The 
 thirty-blade perpendicular knife is intended for use where cheese is made 
 
 PlGUKE 62. 
 
 FiGUEE 63. 
 
 FiGTIBB 64 
 
 in the " coarse curd process," and is passed through the curd but once, 
 cutting it into slices. The other perpendicular knives are passed through 
 the curd both length and crosswise. The horizontal knives (Fig. 61) are 
 eighteen and twenty inches long ; four, six and eight inches wide ; with blades 
 half an inch apart. This knife is not intended to take the place of the per- 
 pendicular knife, but to be used in connection with it. After cutting the 
 curd length and crosswise, this knife cuts the columns into cubes. For dairy 
 use, four to seven blades, perpendicular, and four inch horizontal ; for cheese 
 factory, eleven and thirteen blades perpendicular, and eight inch horizontal. 
 The rake agitator (Figure 62) is used for the purpose of agitating the curd 
 while cooking, is very convenient and will save much labor. This is made 
 of wood and tinned wire. The illustration (Fig. 63) gives another form of the 
 agitator. Whey strainer and siphon (Figure 64), for the purpose of drawing 
 
408 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 off the whey. The lower part of the strainer is made of perforated tin. The 
 syphon lias a faucet attached to one end, with a valve at the other, so con- 
 structed that when filled with whey they will prevent it from escaping. It 
 can then be carried to the vat in which the strainer is jDlaced, the valve end 
 of the syphon is inserted in the strainer, the faucet end hanging over the 
 trough for conducting off the whey. The whey immediately commences to 
 run through the syphon on opening the faucets. 
 
 CURD-MILLS, DAIRY-DIPPERS, ETC. 
 
 Curd Mills are now coming into general use in many sections of the coun- 
 try. Figure 65 represents the McAdam Mill ; it is constructed from iron, 
 with the exception of the frame and hopper, which is wood ; it is geared up 
 so as to run rapidly, and has a heavy balance-wheel to make it run easily. 
 They are invaluable where the Cheddar system is adopted, and will be 
 found a valuable article, particularly in hot weather wlien the milk is often 
 not in the very best condition. At such times it has the effect of improving 
 
 the quality of the curd by finely divid- 
 ing, cooling and exi^osing it to the air ; 
 equalizing its character and insuring 
 more perfect salting. 
 
 We give an illustration in Figure 66 
 of Ralph's American Curd Mill. Re- 
 ferring to the illustration it will be seen 
 that the mill is fitted for lying upon the 
 top of the cheese-vat or sink, and may 
 be moved at pleasure or permanently 
 Figure 65. Secured at one place. It consists of a 
 
 wood frame, upon which is secured a metallic rack with curved I'ibs ; in this 
 rack lie the picking cylinder or cylinders which are of tinned iron ; each 
 cylinder having two rows of teeth set spirally, which teeth by the revolving 
 of the cylinders, gradually enter between the curved ribs of the rack, carry- 
 ing before them the picked curd into the receptacle below. 
 
 The peculiarity of this machine is in the metallic cylinders, and the action 
 of the teeth through the ribs of the curved rack, by means of which the curd 
 is not only easily and rapidly picked up, but being gradually passed through 
 the ribs, is not mashed, nor the butter separated from it. 
 
 The cut represents a double cylinder or factory size, the cylinders being 
 geared together. The dairy size has a single cylinder ; they are worked by 
 hand with a crank, also arranged for power, being furnished with a balance- 
 wheel to carry a belt. 
 
 Dairy dippers (Figure 67) should be made from IXXXX tin, and hold 
 from three to four quarts, the seams should be well filled with solder, and 
 they should be made plain and smooth. Figure 68 is a flat-sided pail made 
 for the purpose of dipping out the curd from the vat ; it should be made from 
 
Practical Dairi Husbandry. 409 
 
 heavy tin, with bail, and a handle in the back. A curd-scoop (Figure 69) 
 should accompany it, which is made from tin, somewhat in the shape of an 
 ordinary dust-pan, but made heavier and more carefully soldered. The curd 
 sink should be mounted on castors, so as to be readily moved in any direction ; 
 these castors (Figure VO) should be made very heavy and substantial, with a 
 
 FlSTJBE 66. 
 
 projecting lip to take the weight off from the screws that fasten it to the legs 
 of the sink. The wheel shank is so secured in the socket, that while it allows 
 the wheel to revolve freely, it cannot slip out of place. The castors are 
 secured to the legs by wood screws ; the bottom of the legs of the sink 
 resting upon projecting lips made to receive them. Four constitute a set. 
 
 FiGUEE 67. FlGUEE 68. 
 
 Rubber mops (Figure Vl), a most desirable article for cleaning a wet 
 floor, will save their cost in brooms several times dui'ing a season. No 
 cheese factory will be without then when once tried. 
 
 Dairy thermometers (Figure 72) should be made with a heavy brass back, 
 and a small loose tin collar to slip over the bulb to protect it ; the handiest 
 size is the ten-inch. The most approved patterns are now j)lated with nickel. 
 
410 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 SCALES. 
 
 Good scales are an important feature in cheese factory fixtures. We give 
 in Figs. 73, 74, 75, 76 and 77 difi'ereut forms of the Howe scales. These 
 
 FiauKB 69. 
 
 FiGXIEE 70. 
 
 PlGUEE 71. 
 
 o 
 
 scales are accurate and reliable. By introducing chilled iron balls between 
 the platform, and by making all the bearings self-adjusting ^ they 
 take nearly all the wear from the pivots, upon the sharpness of 
 which the accuracy and durability of all scales very largely 
 depend. Fig. 74 represents a platform scale on wheels. This, 
 or the one shown in Fig. 73, is the kind wanted by every cheese 
 factory for weighing the milk when it is ti:vken in. About six 
 hundred pound scales are the most desirable. Either of the 
 scales shown in Figs. 75 and 76 are very convenient for weighing 
 salt, &c., in cheese making, but the best to purchase in most cases is 
 the Improved Union Scales (Fig. 77), as they not only answer for 
 weighing small things, but have a convenient platform for 
 weighing cheese or any heavy article. The Joi^es Scales are 
 very similar in construction to the above, and are good, reliable 
 scales. We give in Fig. 78 a cut of the Jones Stock Scales, 
 which are found useful in weighing very heavy weights. 
 
 THE RECTANGULAR CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese has been made from time to time in a variety of 
 shapes. In England and America the cylindrical form has always 
 been most popular. Other shapes, such as the " pine-apple," the 
 " cannon ball," the " Limberger " or brick shape, and the " French 
 cakes," have been, each and all, of limited demand. Some of 
 these shapes, such as the " pine-apple," have been made and are 
 still made in small quantities in this country, and as a fancy 
 Figure 72. article they sell at comparatively high prices. The " cannon 
 ball " was at one time made in certain districts of New York to supply the 
 
 
 xi 
 
 210 
 
 \ pi 
 
 200 
 
 i 1 
 
 180- 
 
 f \ 
 
 
 
 I/O' 
 ISO- 
 150- 
 
 no- 
 
 e; i 
 
 130- 
 120- 
 
 i „.. 
 
 no- 
 
 = ;""' 
 
 100- 
 
 -1 U»«.r» i 
 
 90- 
 
 =j ; 
 
 80- 
 
 = ; 
 
 70- 
 
 1 \ 
 
 GO 
 
 - ^% 
 
 SO- 
 ■tO 
 
 E ; FBCn 
 
 30 
 
 - ; ^""' 
 
 20 
 
 1 \ 
 
 10 
 
 % ■ 
 
 
 
 1 '- 1 
 
 10 
 
 a| 1 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 
 1 '^ ' ' 
 
 
 ll^J 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 411 
 
 Navy. The " Edam " of Holland is round like a ball, and on account of its 
 small size finds ready sale in England, Avliere it is in favor among the lower 
 classes, the farm laborers, and those who desire a low priced cheese, and 
 cannot aiford to indulge in the better sorts. The Limberger is only suited to 
 German tastes. It is rank in taste and smell, and comparatively few English- 
 men or Americans have learned to like it. It is manufactured to some extent 
 in this country to supply our German population, but is not exported. The 
 
 FlGUEE 73. 
 
 FiGXJEE 74. 
 
 FiGUEE 75. 
 
 French cakes have not been made in America. A good deal has been said 
 at one time and another about changing the cylindrical or common shape of 
 our cheese to a square or oblong form. And the reasons urged for this 
 change are that the present shapes entail a heavy expense in boxing, while 
 they cannot be cut in small pieces to advantage. A wedge of cheese, it is 
 contended, must always leave more waste, when it4s divided up for the table, 
 than the same Aveight in a square form, and as small cubical blocks are more 
 pleasing to the eye than irregular pieces cut from a wedge, this alone is good 
 reason why a square or cubical-shaped cheese should be made. But ac the 
 
 Figure 76. 
 
 FiGUEB 77. 
 
 material for making cylindrical boxes is growing scarce and exj)ensive, a 
 cheese of another form is required to meet this difficulty. Square boxes are 
 not only more economical in cost of material and in the labor of making, but 
 as they can be packed closer, there would be a gain over round boxes in 
 the matter of freight when sending to market. These are the arguments 
 that have been urged by the advocates of this radical change in cheese manu- 
 facture. On the other hand, serious objections have been suggested against 
 
412 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the proposed change. In the first place a reputation has been established in 
 the markets for cheese of a particular shape, and it is a question whether the 
 prejudices of consumers for these shapes could be readily overcome. It was 
 thought, too, by many, that by making cheese in a square form the corners 
 and edges Avould be more liable to break in handling, and finally, that there, 
 would be difficulty in securing the bandage, and thus the matter has rested 
 until quite recently. 
 
 Tlie first practical experiments in the way of making square-shaped 
 cheeses, we believe, are due to Mr. Holdkidge of Otsego county, N. Y. He 
 has been for several years developing his system of cheese manufacture, but 
 his plans were not fully matured until last year, when his new style of cheese 
 was put upon the markets. We have seen several letters written by dealers 
 who have handled the " Holdridge cheese," in which its shape and quality 
 are highly commended, and from which it appears that sales have been 
 readily made at good figures. As the plan adopted by Mr. Holdkidge is 
 original, and may be somewhat new to the dairy public, I shall briefly allude 
 to some of its leading features. In the first place the curds are pressed in a 
 
 square box, arranged with fol- 
 lower, &c., on the plan of the 
 common hoop. The cubical 
 block of curd is then removed 
 from the frame and cut with a 
 fine saAV into blocks of the 
 desired size. For these blocks 
 Mr. HoLDEiDGE adopts an ob- 
 FiGUKE 78. long form, the ends being 
 
 square. A strip of bandage cloth, just wide enough to wrap around these 
 blocks, (a small piece having previously been adjusted on the ends), is wet in 
 water. The dampness causes it to adhere to the cheese. The blocks of curd 
 are then simply laid upon the cloth and rolled over tmtil the sides are covered, 
 when the ends are lapped down, and this completes the process of bandaging. 
 The bandaged blocks are then laid in the hoop in the same order in which 
 they were cut, the courses being separated by thin boards, and when in place 
 form a cubical mass. Then the follower is adjusted and pressure applied in 
 the same Avay as for ordinary cheese. This process fastens the bandage 
 securely, and after being properly pressed the frame is taken off, the blocks 
 separated and put upon the shelves. While curing, these blocks of cheese 
 are turned from day to day, but only a quarter revolution at a time. Mr. 
 Holdkidge claims that the escape of the whey by evaporation is greatly 
 facilitated by the form of the cheese, inasmuch as the whey percolates towards 
 the bottom, and the turning being only a quarter revolution, or at right 
 angles, it constantly tends toward the outside, while in the ordinary form of 
 cheese the turning from one side to the other has a tendency to keep the 
 whey in the center of the cheese. In the block-shaped cheese, therefoi-e, the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 413 
 
 whey is so flir dissipated that decomposition is less liable to take place, and 
 further, that the cheese can be preserved without tlie greasing process com- 
 monly employed. He claims also that for the retail trade the block cheese is 
 of great advantage, since the dealer can weigli the whole cheese and cut by 
 measure the exact weight desired. And again, for family use they are 
 superior, since by turning the bandage back from the end a thin slice may be 
 cut off for the table, the bandage replaced and the cheese set on end, thereby 
 excluding the freshly cut surface from the air, preventing drying and the 
 attack of flies. 
 
 In the manuficture of small cheeses it will be observed the i^lan proi^osed 
 must be a great saving in presses and hoops, while the ease and rapidity of 
 adjusting the bandage is a matter of some consideration. I have examined 
 the HoLDETDGE rectangular appliances for pressing Avith considerable care. 
 The whole is very simple, easily operated, and not liable to get out of order. 
 The plan, if successfully adopted, must save a large amount of labor at cheese 
 factories, since one curb and one j^i'ess is sufficient for a large quantity of 
 curd. Then the cheese can be made of any desired weight without going to 
 the extra expense of procuring hoops and presses and scre'ws to meet the 
 emergency. For making small sized cheeses, say from ten to thirty pounds, 
 it would seem to be admirably adapted. Small sized cheeses are very much 
 needed in the home trade, and are not supplied in sufficient quantity for the 
 reason that manufacturers have not been willing to take the extra expense 
 of labor and appliances for their production. Under the rectangular plan 
 most of the objections to making a small sized cheese are obviated. We see 
 no reason w^hy the rectangular cheese cannot be made of equal quality with 
 other shapes. Indeed, Ave have tested numerous samples made at different 
 seasons of the year, and have found them excellent. The small expense in 
 boxing this style of cheese alone commends it to favorable consideration. 
 But of course the prejudice for round shapes among certain consumers may 
 interfere for a time with the general introduction of rectangular cheese. Still 
 from the success already obtained for this plan, and the favor with which the 
 cheese has been received in the home and foreign markets, there is reason to 
 believe that the oblong shapes are destined to work a revolution in the old 
 styles of cheese. We hear of a number of factories this year, 1871, entering 
 upon their manuf icture, and by the end of the season enough cheeses will 
 have been made to fully test the feeling of different markets in regard to the 
 new shapes. 
 
 We give a cut (Fig. 79) representing the curb and press, and the manner 
 in which the cheese is placed for pressure. A represents cheese with 
 bandage. B, composite mold. C, square curb or hoop. D and E, mortised 
 slips for connecting the hoops. Mr. Holdridge, the inventor, gives the 
 following statement as regards the comparative cost of making rectangular 
 cheese and round cheese, together with the directions for pressing, ban- 
 
414 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 daging and boxing, which will be useful to those proposing to adopt this 
 style of manufacture : 
 
 Saving in Boxes^ Down Weights and Handling. — ComparatiTe cost of 
 manufacture, boxing, &c., of one hundred pounds of cheese made into ten 
 pound rectangular cheese, or made into fifty jjound round cheese : — Ten 
 
 Figure 79. 
 
 rectangular cheese, five by five by ten inches, weigh one hundred pounds. 
 Two round cheese, fifteen inches in diameter and eight inches high, weigh 
 one hundred pounds. Bandage for round cheese, three-quarters wide, say 
 one yard, costs six cents; to box two such cheese, forty-four cents. Total 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 415 
 
 cost for one hundred pounds, fifty cents. Bandage for ten rectangular cheese, 
 as above, three yards, three-quarters wide, cost eighteen cents ; boxes for one 
 hundred pounds, thirty cents. Total cost per one hundred pounds, forty-eight 
 cents ; a saving of two cents per one hundred pounds. 
 
 Comparing ten pound rectangular with fifty pound round cheese : — These 
 small cheeses are packed eighteen (one hundred and eighty jDounds) in a case. 
 The same amount of cheese in fifty pound round cheese would require three 
 down weights or more — a loss of two weights, not less than one pound of 
 cheese as compared with the small cheese — worth sixteen cents. A saving 
 of about nine cents per one hundred pounds, which, added to the two cents 
 saved as above, makes not less than eleven cents per one hundred pounds 
 saved thus far in favor of rectangular small cheese. Tliis saving greatly 
 increases as the size of the round cheese compared with the rectangular 
 diminishes. 
 
 Compare twenty-five povmds rectangular Avith the same size round cheese: 
 Round cheese of this weight are about thirteen inches in diameter and six 
 inches high. Rectangular cheese, same weight, are seven by seven by four- 
 teen inches. The bandage for round cheese, per one hundred pounds, costs 
 seven cents ; four boxes at sixteen cents, sixty-four cents. Total for one 
 hundred pounds, seventy-one cents. Rectangular cheese : — Bandage, twelve 
 cents ; boxes, twenty-five cents. Total per one hundred jDOunds, thirty-peven 
 cents ; saved, thirty -four cents. To this should be added seven down weights 
 saved, (three and a-half pounds of cheese), to case of eight cheeses, per one 
 hundred pounds, twenty-eight cents. Total saved per one hundred pounds, 
 sixty-two cents. In comparing fifty jDound round cheese with rectangular 
 cheese eight by eight by sixteen inches, weighing same, the saving per one 
 hundred pounds is thirty cents. The above figures do not include the 
 saving in screws, hoops and frames, nor in labor required to take Care of them. 
 
 Saving in IIoops^ Screws, Sc. — To manufacture the milk from five hun- 
 dred cows requires hoops, screws and appurtenances to take care of at least one 
 thousand pounds of curd. To maniifacture this into fifty pound round cheese 
 Avould require twenty hoops, screws, frames, &c., and would cost not less 
 than $15 per set ; total, $300. To manufacture the same curd into rectangu- 
 lar cheese, twenty-five pounds each, would, if pressed into eight cheeses, two 
 hiuidred pounds in a curb, require but five curbs, which, Avith screws and 
 frames, would not cost over $150. A net saving of fifty per cent. To make 
 the same amount of curd into ten pound rectangular cheese would require, 
 if pressed in curbs thirty by thirty inches, two cheese in thickness, three 
 curbs and fixtui'es, and would not cost over $100. 
 
 Saving in Soxes. — We box eight cheese, thirty-pound size, in one case 
 
 — two hundred and forty pounds — and the box will cost not over sixty cents, 
 
 and can be furnished for less, as they can be made of pieces of boards and 
 
 refuse lumber. We box the ten-pound size, eighteen in a case — one hundred 
 
 . and eighty pounds — and boxes cost each sixty cents. By comparing these 
 
I 
 
 416 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 figures with the cost of boxes for round cheese, per one hundred pounds tlie 
 saving in expense is readily seen. We can use the same screws and frames 
 as used with hoojDS. The common round hoops cost about |5 each, and pres^ 
 from twenty-five to fifty pounds of curd. Our curbs cost from |15 to |20 
 each, and press from two hundred to four hundred pounds, or more. Curbs 
 without sections cost twenty per cent, less. The expense of these can be 
 lessened by using one or more locked or hinged curbs, with boxes dove- 
 tailed or screwed together for first pressing the curd. And when several 
 locked curbs are used they do not all require sections. Much less room for 
 presses is required and the drying room can be much smaller for these 
 cheeses than for round ones, as they occupy less space on the table or shelves, 
 and the shelves can be placed one above the other. The rooms can be better 
 ventilated, as the cheese are bandaged all over and will not crack. By usino- 
 our style of press or curb, cheese can be pressed as long as desired, as each 
 day's cheese can be jDut under one press. 
 
 TJie Press Cloths. — Two press cloths are used Avith each curb. A square 
 one, a little larger than tlie curb, and a long one, of sufllcient length to reach 
 around inside of the curb, and wide enough to protect the sides of the curb. 
 Place the square press cloth upon the press board and put the curb upon it. 
 Put in the long press cloth around the inside of the curb, and let it lap about 
 an inch upon the bottom towards the center of the curb. If this cloth be not 
 wide enough to cover the top of the cheese, a small square cloth should be 
 used. Put in curd enough to make the cake of required thickness. Put in 
 the follower and press the curd till next morning, or till sufficiently formed 
 to cut. Having removed the screw, lift up one side of the curb and" pull the 
 bottom press cloth back half way, then lift up the other side and remove thej 
 cloth. -Take out the pins and loosen and remove the curb and side and top ■ 
 press cloths, and the cake is ready to cut. Cut the cake by measure into 
 desired sizes. 
 
 To Bandage the Cheese.— Cwt the bandage into strips, one inch wider 
 than the length of the cheese, and of sufficient length to reach around the 
 cheese and lap about an inch. Also cut square pieces one inch larger than 
 the end of the cheese. Place the pieces of bandage in a vessel of water, and 
 put on the bandage wet. Place the end pieces on first, lapping over the ends 
 one-half an inch all around. The side piece is put on as follows : Place one 
 end of the bandage near the middle of the uppermost side of the cheese, 
 spread it smoothly and turn the cheese from the person, and the bandage can 
 be put on very smooth. Smooth over the corners and ends, and replace the 
 cheese into the curb for second pressing. Where quantities of this cheese 
 are made, we use a common table having on the under side a trough of water, 
 and the bandage is cut into long strips of proper width and placed in the 
 water in rolls on spools, and through slots in the table is drawn np as 
 required, and cut off" as each cheese is bandaged. This is a very simple and 
 cheap arrangement, and will greatly assist in preparing and putting on the . 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. ' 417 
 
 bandage. The bandaged cheese having been piled upon the press board, 
 the curb is locked around it. Between each layer of cheese jjlace an inch 
 board same size as the follower. Nothing but the bandage is placed between 
 the cheeses in the same layer. Apply the screw and press as long as desired. 
 When the cheeses are first put upon the shelves or tables, place them close 
 together for a few days, to prevent drying too fast, and after that keep them 
 about an inch apart — to be governed by the weather and how fast they are 
 desired to dry. The cheese should be rubbed and turned a quarter revolu- 
 tion daily, and kept nice and clean. 
 
 JBoxes. — We box these cheese as follows : Ten-pound cheese, eighteen 
 cheeses in a case. Twenty to thirty-pound cheese, eight cheeses in a case. 
 The boxes are made of one-half inch stuff for the sides, and inch stuff for the 
 ends and middle partition. The end pieces are set in a little from the ends 
 of the sides, and a small cleat nailed around the outside of the heads, as shown 
 in the engraving, makes them very firm. The middle i^iece is same size and 
 shape as the heads. A cleat is put around the boxes outside at the ends and 
 middle to keep them from being packed too closely together. This cleat 
 should be of one-half inch stuff, and about an inch wide. (This cleat does 
 not show in engraving.) The lumber should all be planed, it looks so much 
 better ; and if the cover is fastened on with screws, it will be an advantage, 
 as shippers and others can inspect the cheese without injury to the box, and 
 where the market is not too far off the empty boxes can be returned. A 
 thin piece of veneer or board, of same size as side of cheese, should be j)ut 
 between each cheese in the box, as a scale board, and the boxes should^ always 
 lie so that the cheese stand on end. It pays well to make a neat looking 
 package. Butter dairymen understand this, and know that the price of their 
 butter is sei'iously affected by the appearance of the jaackage. We know 
 from experience that good, neat looking boxes for our cheeses are a profit- 
 able investment. 
 
 THE CHEESE RACK AND SETTEE, 
 
 •were considered indispensable in the curing rooms of the early factories, but 
 the necessity now for their use is not so great. Indeed, with the medium- 
 sized cheese now generally made, many prefer the simple table on which to 
 place the cheese while curing, as it is easier cleaned and affords more room. 
 The cheese rack consists of scantling (four by five inches) with the corners 
 beveled or cut so as to be five-sided ; these ai'e framed the proper distance 
 at the ends and set on legs of the desired hight, forming a skeleton table. 
 Or, instead of legs, arms may be framed into the posts which support the 
 floors of the curing room, and upon these arras the scantling are placed to 
 form the rack. Then round covers of inch hemlock or pine, bound with 
 stout elm rims, three or four inches wide, set upon the racks and hold the 
 cheese. When the cheese is to be turned, a spare cover is placed on top, and 
 the cheese and covers turned over ; the cover now on top is removed, rubbed 
 with a cloth, and is ready to be applied to the next cheese. The rims of the 
 27 
 
418 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 covers protect tbe edges of the cheese in the process of turning • and a part 
 of the cheese swinging down in the open space between the timbers, and the 
 rims resting on the beveled sides, renders the operation not only easy but 
 insures safety to the cheese. A lai-ge cheese can be turned with as much 
 ease on a properly constructed rack as the loosening of the cheese on the 
 table preparatory to being turned. Large cheeses are difficult to handle on 
 a table, and are liable to have their edges broken or in other ways marred 
 in turning. The illustration (Fig. 80) gives an idea of the manner of con- 
 structing the rack. 
 
 CONVENIENT APPLIANCES. 
 
 In the construction and fitting up of factories, it is very important to have 
 every department as conveniently arranged as possible. Attention should 
 be given to have every appliance for saving labor and facilitating all the 
 various operations. Good factory hands are comparatively scarce, and com- 
 mand large wages. By having conveniently arranged buildings and handy 
 implements, the labor of one or two persons may be saved, and this is an 
 
 FiGUKE 
 
 important item. In a recent visit to Chautauqua County, I found some 
 things adopted at the Sinclairville Factory, by which the operations were 
 very expeditiously conducted. The Sinclairville Factory is one of the 
 largest in the State of New York, receiving the milk of fifteen hundred cows 
 and upward. Where such a large quantity of milk is received at one place, 
 it is evident more than ordinary attention must be given to have the various 
 parts of the factory and its appliances so as to be convenient, for if otherwise 
 there would be great liability of neglect from time to time, which would 
 result in damaging the product 
 
 THE MAIN BUILDING 
 
 is one hundred and twenty feet by fifty feet, three stories high, and this 
 structure is wholly employed as a dry house or cheese curing department. 
 The two lines of posts running through the central part of the building, in 
 the several stories, to support the frame, are also made of use in holding the 
 arms on which the tables or shelves rest, one above the other, thereby giving 
 the building capacity for storing a large number of cheeses. Some idea of 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 419 
 
 its capacity will be liad from the fact that at one time nine thousand cheeses 
 (fifteen-inch size) were stored upon the shelves. 
 
 THE MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT 
 
 is in a wing extending in a line with the main building, one hundred and 
 thirty feet long by thirty-two feet broad, and one story high. From the 
 main building to the end of the wing the floor has one foot fall. The floor 
 also descends from either side toward the center, where there is a narrow 
 ditch for conducting ofi" the whey and slops. The vats are upon one side and 
 the presses upon the other side, opposite. The space from the vats to the 
 side of the building occupied by the presses is eleven feet, which gives ample 
 room for the sink, provided with large casters, to move up and down between 
 the vats and presses as desired, while sufficient room is given on either side 
 of the sink for the hands to work in, stirring the curds, &c., &c. 
 
 THE SINK 
 
 is three feet two inches wide by thirteen feet four inches in length. The 
 bottom is made dishing, and is of matched pine, except in the center, where 
 there is a narrow strip of perforated tin, through which the whey escapes to 
 a movable trough, which is a little wider than the tin, and fits up close to 
 the bottom of the sink, so that all the whey dripping from the curds is 
 caught. At the upper end of the manufacturing department, and adjoining 
 the dry-house, a space thirty feet long is devoted to 
 
 A DRESSING ROOM. 
 
 There are tables along the side of this department, where the cheese, 
 when taken from the press, are received and dressed preparatory to going 
 forward into the dry-house. At the lower end of the manufactory there is 
 an open shed or covered drive-way, where the teams deliver milk. Upon 
 one side stand the platform scales, three and a-half feet higher than the floor 
 of the drive-way. The usual weighing can and its accompanying tin milk 
 conductor are not used at this factory. Instead, there is a truck running on 
 rails along the heads of vats. This truck has a platform about the same 
 hight from the floor as that upon which the scales rest. When the milk 
 teams come in, the cans are moved directly from the wagon to the scales, 
 and after being weighed go upon the truck, which is then moved along to 
 the head of the vat and dumped. One edge of the platform on the truck is 
 cut down lower than the others, and has a notch to receive the bottom of the 
 can on this side, so as to facilitate dumping, and also to prevent the can 
 from slipping while being dumped. The platform scales being about the 
 same hight as the milk wagons, there is no difficulty in rolling the can upon 
 the scales, and from the scales to the dumping truck. Each patron's can is 
 weighed and marked, so that the weight of milk is rapidly obtained. There 
 is no bother with cranes, no weighing can to be kept clean, no milk con- 
 ductor to look after, while the operation of weighing and delivering the milk 
 
420 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 to the vats, Mr. Burnham, the proprietor, says, can be done quite as rapidly , 
 and safely as by the usual method, and with no more labor. On the other ll 
 hand, a very large amount of work in cleaning weighing can and milk con- 
 ductors is obviated during the season, while at the same time there is less 
 liability of sour milk, &c., arising from neglect on the part of factory hands 
 to keep these utensils in j^roper order. The arrangement seemed to be 
 convenient, as it certainly was ingenious, and being so different from the 
 usual plan of delivering milk, may prove suggestive to those persons who 
 are about to build cheese factories. 
 
 THE CURD FILLER. 
 
 Another handy device in use at this factory is that for filling the hoops 
 with curd. A tin form (see Fig. 81) just large enough to slip down inside 
 the hoop is used. It is a little longer than the hoop, and is surmounted by 
 a flaring top, and when in place, has the appearance of a common tin pan 
 sitting upon the hoop (see Fig. 82). 
 
 Figure 81. 
 
 Figure 82. 
 
 Now, when the hoop is to be filled with curd, the lower or smaller end 
 of this tin form receives a circular piece of cotton cloth just large enough to 
 cover the bottom and come up over the edges of the tin outside — say about 
 an inch. The cloth having been dampened and spread over the tin, is pushed 
 into the hoop. It covers the bottom of the hoop, and the edges, of course, 
 are held between the hoop and the tin, about an inch high all around the 
 hoop. The curd is now placed in the hoop, and when full the tin form drawn 
 out, which leaves the bottom cloth with edges turned up between the curd 
 and hoop, preventing the escape of the curd during pressure. A circular cap 
 of cloth is put on the top when the follower is adjusted and the cheese goes 
 to press. By this device the use of large pressing-cloths is avoided, while a 
 nice surface is secured to the cheese, making a considerable saving, not only 
 in expense for cloth, but in labor of washing, &c. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 421 
 
 THE BANDAGING MACHINE. 
 
 This is another convenient arrangement by which a cheese can be very 
 expeditiously bandaged. It consists simply of a circular-topped stool (see 
 Figure 83) for placing the cheese upon as it comes from the press. The top 
 of the stool is about the same diameter as that of the cheese to be bandaged. 
 A strip of tin is bent into a circle, so that it may be made to inclose the 
 cheese. The ends are not joined together (see Figure 84), so that it may be 
 contracted or exj)anded. It is provided with handles. 
 
 Now, when the cheese is to be bandaged, it is placed upon the stool, the 
 circular tin contracted so as to readily receive the bandage, when it is allowed 
 to expand, and is then forced down over the cheese and over the stool, or so 
 far as is necessary to make a lap of bandage for the under side of the cheese. 
 
 FiGUEE 83. FiGUKE 84. 
 
 Then the tin is withdrawn, leaving the bandage nicely in place. The work 
 is very rapidly effected, without trouble or tearing the bandage; and a 
 closer and better fit may be made than where the bandage is drawn on by 
 hand, as in the old way. 
 
 THE MILK TESTER. 
 
 In testing of milk, from time to time, the common lactometer, or set of 
 glass tubes graduated, is used. But instead of marking the name of the 
 patron back of each tube to designate it, as is usual at many factories, 
 figures (see Figure 85) are used, which refer to corresponding names kept 
 in a private book. Thus the tests may be conducted without arousing suspi- 
 cion or causing unpleasant feeling among the patrons on account of subjecting 
 the milk to a test. This plan seems to be altogether preferable to the use of 
 names directly on the apparatus, since all unpleasant remarks concerning 
 certain specimens of milk by those going through the factory are avoided, as 
 the names corresponding with the numbers are known only to the factory 
 manager, and can be kept secret by him. We give an illustration herewith 
 
422 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 of the glass tubes set in a frame, and each with its appropriate number on 
 the board at the back part of the frame. 
 
 THE " YOUNG AMERICAN " CHEESE. 
 
 Small cheeses of the " Young America " style have been manufactured at 
 this factory, and sales for such have averaged considerably more than for 
 large cheese. These cheeses are pressed in hoops seven inches in diameter 
 and the cheeses made from six to seven inches high. S^eral are pressed \ 
 together under one screw — in some cases as many as sixteen. They are set 
 together, the followers adjusted, and a thick, wide plank put upon the 
 blocking, so that the whole may be pressed evenly and alike. In boxing | 
 these cheeses for market, twenty-one and a-half inch boxes are used, and 
 seven cheeses put in a box. One cheese stands in the center of the box, and 
 the others are arranged about it, and they thus fill the box, so that 'they 
 may be safely sent to market, without moving about or marring. We were 
 much pleased with several other features at this factory, but which we have 
 no space now to describe. 
 
 Fi&UKE 85. 
 ON FACTORY BUILDINGS AND FIXTURES. 
 
 The following from the pen of Dr. L. L. Wight, who has had large expe- 
 rience in the management of factories, will appropriately close this branch 
 of our work : 
 
 ^' The first thing to be considered in selecting a site for building, after 
 having secured a sufficient number of cows, is a plentiful supj^ly of cold, 
 running water. The quantity should not be less than sufficient to fill a two- 
 inch pipe, for the milk oPf every five hundred cows. The temperature of this 
 water should not rise above sixty degrees in the warmest weather of summer. 
 Instead of erecting the buildings over some low, marshy, swampy ground, 
 where water, slop and whey will settle and stagnate and infect the superin- 
 cumbent air, as is too often the case, by all means select some dry, hard, airy 
 location, a little descending to the rear, and with a continuous descent from 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 423 
 
 the building, to insure the escape of all decomposing liquids to a safe distance. 
 The size of the main building should be thirty-two feet wide, two stories 
 high, of eight feet each in the clear, and the length will depend upon the 
 amount of milk anticipated. A building seventy-five feet long will accommo- 
 date the milk from five or six hundred cows. Let the piers be made very 
 substantial, extending to a depth beyond the possibility of frost, and not be 
 over about ten feet apart in either direction. The main timbers, being ten 
 by twelve inches square, support thi'ee by ten inch joists, not set in gains but 
 resting on the cross-sills. The joists must be sound and set not over sixteen 
 inches apart, being well bridged. The flooring of the manufactory, made 
 of well-matched, sound yellow pine-plank, inclines three inches from the front, 
 to a substantial box-drain made in the floor, four feet from the rear. The 
 floor also inclines slightly from the rear to said drain. The drain drops from 
 each end of the manufactory to the center, where it enters another box which 
 conveys all slop, whey, etc., to a safe distance from the building. The entire 
 outside is covered with well-seasoned, matched, sound pine-siding. The 
 entire sides and ends of the manufacturing part, inside, are ceiled with pine. 
 The ceiling is well plastered. The curing-rooms have floors laid with good, 
 sound, seasoned spruce flooring. The sides are double-plastered, so as to make 
 two fixed air spaces. The ceilings are also all well plastered. There need 
 be no posts to support the floor. The second floor is supported by iron rods 
 suspended from bridges in the attic. The entire building is well lighted by 
 double-sash windows, which are supplied with good rotary outside blinds. 
 Thorough ventilation of the curing-room is secured by the building being 
 elevated so far above the ground as to admit of an abundance of air ; and 
 the insertion of large registers in each bent, under every counter in the first 
 and second floors, and by good ventilators through the attic floor and roof. 
 By careful attention to these registers, and keeping the blinds closed in hot 
 and sunny days, the temperature can usually be kept at a sufficiently low 
 degree, even in the warmest weather. An ice chamber in the attic, so 
 arranged as to register the cold, moist air into the curing-rooms below, would 
 likely at times be beneficial. The curing-rooms are supplied with counters 
 twenty-four inches high and three feet wide ; each table being made of two 
 seventeen-inch wide pine plank, with a two inch space between them. 
 Matched boards under cheese are objectionable, from the greater difficulty 
 of cleansing and the danger of skippers infesting the cracks. It is better to 
 have the counters two feet distant from each other for the convenience of the 
 laborers, cheese-buyers and visitors. The manufacturing-room will be sepa- 
 rated from the curing-room below by a tight double partition, with a large 
 sliding door in the center, between the two lines of presses. The length of 
 the manufacturing and pressing-room, in a building Of the size above men- 
 tioned, would be thirty-five or forty feet. The boiler-room, and wood or 
 coal-room will be erected at the end and adjoining the manufactory, having 
 easy entrance thereto. A building about thirteen feet square should be 
 
*24 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 attached to the front of the manufactory, containing a drive-way and a 
 receiving-platform. The platform will be closed toward the drive-way 
 except a shde window to receive tl^ milk through, and be open toward the 
 vats. The center of this building will correspond to the center of the vats 
 so that the receiving-can may stand equi-distant from each outside vat The 
 ground of the drive-way is four and one-half feet below the top of the weigh 
 mg-can. The receivmg-platform is about one foot higher than the top of the 
 milk-vats. This building is supplied with means to hoist the cans of milk 
 either by a crane-derrick, or, what is preferable, a hoisting wheel. Permit 
 no faucets in the transporting cans, as they cause the milk to taint when not 
 cleansed thoroughly, and are liable to be neglected. The wooden vats being 
 about fifteen feet m length, it gives three feet between the receivinc-platform 
 and the end of the vats ; two feet between the vats and the curd-sink ; two 
 feet between the curd-sink and the presses, and two feet between the presses 
 and the rear of the building. The vats are separated two feet from each 
 other, and three feet from the end of the building. The wooden vats almost 
 invanably leak, and I think it would be better to have them lined with sheet- 
 lead. The tin vats should be made of the largest sheets of tin, of the best 
 quahty, and be soldered together very smoothly. The wooden vat should 
 
 rminTtVth l"" "'"'"^^ ''' one-half length of the vat, and not 
 coming to the edge or upper end within four inches. The wooden vats 
 
 fThe fit 'Vh"" r' "^'' ''^' ^^'^^"'"^^ '^ ^^^ ^-^' '^ ^^ - the wa; 
 the v!t !bv "T --venient way of raising and lowering the foot of 
 
 the vat 1. by means of a standard, spring and catch, attached to the floor and 
 the lower end of the vat. The space between the last vat and the curing- 
 
 "oTnrsaltT""" r T '"" '' P"^^^^' ^"^ ^''' -ffi--* -om fi 
 Ind Live f ' '"T- ' • TT" J""' '"■ ^^"^"^^ ^^P^°-' conductors, pails 
 and knives for washing-smk, hot and cold water barrels, etc. Supply each 
 milk vat with a water pipe of at least three-quarters of an inch bore. The 
 water, after having circulated around and cooled the milk, will be conducted 
 
 a7J^ "'^. ^"^ ^'^'"^'^ '^' P°^^^ t° ^°^« t^« "^i^k agitator, of which 
 t? 1. !, ^'. '' recommended. If the factory is to receive the milk of 
 ^11 .^'t T\ '' """'''' ^'' ^ '''"™ ^"^^°^ ''^ ''^' ^^«« than two horse- 
 LTnditn' f 1 "^ ""' ^''' '^"" " '^" torse-power. It requires the 
 expendituie of a large quantity of steam to warm the milk, and you want to 
 DC sure of it just when you need it ; and the engine will enable you to pump 
 water into the boiler, to grind your curds, to churn, if you wish, to saw your 
 wood, or perform what other service soever you may desire. If you have a 
 less number of cows than above indicated, a patent heater manufactured by 
 Chakles Millar & Son of Utica, will heat the milk gradually and very 
 perfectly and gives general satisfaction. If you do not grind your curds you 
 will need two curd-sinks, so as to give greater facility for cooling the curds , 
 before putting to press. Your milk conductors will be large, stout, and open 1 
 at the top to msure easy cleansing. Procure a good curd-mill to be used at ' 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 425 
 
 least in hot weather. You want one gang knife of thirty blades, with one- 
 fourth inch spaces, and one horizontal curd knife. If you use a steam boiler 
 use the steam dry, afcer the method patented by Mr. Schekmerhoen. Alto- 
 gether the best method of warming the curing-room is by steam from the 
 boiler. This gives a more equable temperature, and a raoister, purer atmos- 
 phere. The next best mode of heating is by a furnace, well supplied with 
 water for evaporation. Wood or coal stoves do not sufficiently equalize the 
 temperature. Having an ice chamber in the attic, you can perform the 
 double operation of cooling and moistening the rooms at any time. Curd- 
 rakes, to keep the curd from packing, are nearly as indispensable as curd- 
 knives. The paj;ent horizontal jjress, pressing a number of cheeses at once, 
 with one screw, will come into general use when the patentee has learned to 
 obviate the difficulty of making an indentation or crease in each cheese, Avhich 
 harms their appearance, and supplies an excellent place for the generation of 
 skippers in fly time. The followers must fit the hoops very nearly, or if not, 
 the use of the rubber ring is necessitated. The use of this will hinder the 
 curd from passing up between the hoop and the follower. In very hot 
 weather, however, the acid in the whey soon decomposes the rubber and 
 necessitates new purchases. No press cloths are needed. The rings and 
 staples in the followers you buy are worthless, and should be replaced by 
 your blacksmith, before attempting to use them. Turning covers are not 
 wanted, even if the patentee will pay you for using them. Fairbanks' scales 
 are the most reliable and give the best satisfaction. In weighing cheese for 
 market, use a suitable sized counter-scale, which you can slip along readily on 
 the counter, as you weigh each cheese, before being boxed. Give good 
 up-weight in this manner, and there need be no trouble of having short 
 weights returned upon you. Fine cap cloths give the smoothest rind. A 
 convenient door will 'be made in each end of the second story, and in the end 
 of the curing-room below, through which the cheeses may pass to the wagons 
 on shipping. The boxes may very readily be slid from the second story to 
 the wagons on properly constructed skids." 
 
CHEESE MANUFACTUILE. 
 
 THE ENGLISH STANDARD AS TO THE TLAVOE OF CHEESE. 
 
 Milk varies in character from various causes, but chiefly in the butter and 
 milk-sugar, the caseine showing but slight variations. Now the great art 
 sought by the cheese dairymen is in extracting two of the above constituents 
 of the milk — caseine and butter — and combining them with the water in 
 such proportions as to make a palatable article to suit a certain arbitrary 
 taste. I say arbitrary, because taste is educated, and different nations have 
 different standards as to what is palatable. 
 
 When I was in Switzerland I saw gentlemen, apparently of the highest 
 respectability, eating cheese of a most intensely disagreeable odor. They 
 ate this cheese with a relish, and pronounced it excellent, while, to my taste, 
 it had all the peculiarities of badly tainted food, the very odor of which was 
 nauseating. Some of the Germans also like a strong and rancid cheese. 
 
 The English taste, both for butter and cheese, has changed materially 
 during the last half century. What is noAV required in cheese is a mild, 
 clean flavor, with a certain mellowness of texture, readily dissolving under 
 the tongue, and leaving a nutty, new milk taste in the mouth. The English 
 demand a cheese of solid texture — that is, free from porosity — because a 
 porous cheese usually indicates an imperfect separation of the whey, or undue 
 fermentation. Such cheese often has a sweetish taste, which is owing to the 
 excess of the sugar of milk in the whey, and they invariably turn with a bad 
 flavor. The market value of cheese does not depend entirely on the amount 
 of butter which it contains. In an address before the American Dairymen's 
 Association a few years ago, I broached and discussed this point. It was 
 new doctrine, which the dairy public, and especially dealers, were not then 
 prepared to admit. 
 
 The experiments at factories, since that time, have proved the assump- 
 tion, and shown that cheese made from milk partially skimmed was not even 
 suspected by the dealer at home, and was pronounced first quality in the' 
 English market. The fact has also been established by Dr. Voelcker, in 
 the analyses of different samples of cheese ; the common or ordinary Amer- 
 ican, he finds richer in butter than the best English Cheddar, which is the 
 highest grade of cheese known to English taste. It may not be out of place, 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 427 
 
 in this connection, to give Dr. Yoelcker's language. He says :— " One of 
 the chief tests of the skill of the dairymaid is the j^roduction of a rich tasting 
 and looking, fine flavored and mellow cheese, from milk not particularly rich 
 in cream. That this can be done, is abundantly proved by the practice of 
 good makers. One of the finest Cheddars I ever examined was made by Mr. 
 Joseph HARDme of Marksbury, Somersetshire, and analyzed by me when 
 six months old. Like all good cheese, it of course contained a large amount 
 of butter, though, as I found by experiment, not nearly so large an amount 
 as its appearance, rich taste, and fine, mature condition seemed to imply. 
 Though only six months old, it had a much more mature appearance than a 
 Cheddar cheese which was at least eleven months old when analyzed, and, 
 thanks to Mr. Harding's skill and experience, had a far much fatter and 
 more mellow appearance and richer taste, than a specimen which actually 
 contained two and a-half per cent, more butter." " In the opinion of good 
 judges," he goes on to remark " this Cheddar cheese, notwithstanding the 
 larger amount of butter and smaller amount of water it contained, was worth 
 a penny a pound less than the specimen made by Mr. Harding." 
 
 MELLOW APPEARANCE. 
 
 " The peculiar mellow appearance of good cheese, though due to some 
 extent to the butter it contains, depends, in a higher degree, upon a gradual 
 transformation, which caseine or curd undergoes in ripening. Now, if this 
 ripening process is badly conducted, or the original character of the curd is 
 such that it adapts itself but slowly to the transformation, the cheese, Avhen 
 sold, will be comparatively tough, and appear less rich in butter than it really 
 is, while in a well made and properly kept cheese, this series of changes will 
 be rapidly and thoroughly efiected." 
 
 PROPER RIPENING. 
 
 " Proper ripening, then, imparts to cheese a rich appearance, and unites 
 with the butter in giving it that most desirable property of melting in the 
 mouth. On examining some cheeses deficient in this melting property, and 
 accordingly pronounced by practical judges defective in butter, I neverthe- 
 less found in them a very high percentage of that substance, clear proof that 
 the mellow and rich taste is not owing entirely, or indeed is chiefly due, to 
 the fatty matter which it contains." 
 
 I do not introduce this topic for the purpose of advising manufacturers to 
 skim the milk for cheese-making, but rather as a suggestion that no efibrt 
 should be spared in acquiring that skill in manufacturing which is able to 
 bring about desirable results, and to show that, even with the best material, 
 a cheese unskillfully made may be tough, poor and unpalatable. 
 
 THE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE IN CHEESE. 
 
 Now, it may not be uninteresting to know what are the component parts 
 of what is considered the highest grade of cheese in the English market, such 
 
428 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ^| 
 
 as we are attempting to furnish. It at least gives us some general idea of 
 the proportion of water, caseine and butter which has effected the highest 
 results. 
 
 The analysis of Mr. Hakding's cheese gives the following in the one 
 hundred parts : 
 
 Water 33.92 
 
 Butter 33.15 
 
 Caseine 28.12 
 
 Milk sugar, luetic acid and extractive matter 00 96 
 
 Mineral matter 3.85 
 
 Total 100.00 
 
 The 28.12 parts of caseine contain 21.50 parts of nitrogen, and of the 3.85 
 parts mineral matter, 1.15 was common salt. It will be seen, then, that 
 good cheese, properly cured, has about thirty-four jDer cent, of Avater, and less 
 than one per cent, of milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c. 
 
 From the analyses which I have seen of different samples of the best 
 English and American cheese, when ripe, it appears that the proportion of 
 water should not be above thirty-four per cent. Any considerable increase 
 above this almost invariably indicates bad flavor. There is no doubt, a due 
 proportion of the water in cheese imparts to it a smooth and apparently rich 
 texture, and it is to this point manufacturers should direct their attention. 
 When too much water is taken out of the curd, we have a dry, stiff cheese, 
 the transformation of the caseine or curd being imperfect, and the cheese 
 appears less rich than it really is. Any system of cheese-making, then, by 
 which we may be able to judge the most accurately as to the amount of 
 water to be retained in the curds, will be the most successful, other thino-s 
 being equal. 
 
 SALTY TASTE. 
 
 In regard to the saline taste sometimes complained of in old cheese, 
 otherwise rich and good. Dr. Voelckek attributes it to ammoniacal salts, 
 developed during the ripening process. He says :— " During the ripening of 
 the cheese, a portion of the caseine or. curd suffers decomposition, and is 
 partially changed into ammonia ; the latter, however, does not escape, but 
 combines with several fatty acids, formed in the course of time from the 
 butter. Peculiar ammoniacal salts are thus produced, and these, like most 
 other salts of ammonia, have a pungent, saline taste. The longer cheese is 
 kept within reasonable limits, the riper it gets, and as it ripens, the propor- 
 tion of ammoniacal salts, with this pungent, saline taste, increases. It can 
 be readily shown that old cheese contains a good deal of ammonia, in the 
 shape of ammoniacal salts. All that is necessary is to pound a piece with 
 quick lime, when, on the addition of a little water, a strong smell of spirits 
 of hartshorn will be developed. In well kept, sound old cheese, the ammonia 
 is not free, but exists in the form of salts, whose base is ammonia, in combi- 
 nation with butyric, caprinic, caprylic and other acids, generated under 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 429 
 
 favorable circumstances by the fats of which butter consists. Ripe cheese, 
 even if very old, but sound, instead of containing free ammonia, always 
 exhibits a decidedly acid reaction, Avhen tested with blue litmus paper. 
 Rotten cheese, on the other hand, is generally alkaline in its reaction, and 
 contains free ammonia." 
 
 KEEPING QUALITIES. 
 
 I have alluded to some of the characteristics demanded in them, to suit 
 the English taste. There is another requisite, which trade and our own 
 interest imperatively demand : it is the production of cheese that is slow of 
 decay — that will sustain its good qualities a long time ; one that can be kept, 
 either at home upon the factory shelves, or in the hands of purchasers, with- 
 out fear of deterioration or loss. English shippers and dealers have always 
 complained of the early decay of American cheese, and the fear of loss from 
 this source has had great inHuence upon the market. When considerable 
 stocks have been accumulated, the dealer has been over-anxious to get rid 
 of them, and has pushed them, at low pyces, upon the market, on the 
 assumption that the loss from deterioration, by holding, would more than 
 cover any prospective advance in price. Factories, too, have often pushed 
 forward their goods on this account. It is true there has been great imj)rove- 
 ment, during the last few years, in the keeping qualities of our cheese, but 
 there is room for moi-e improvement, and no factory should make a pound 
 of cheese that cannot be kept, without deterioration, at least several months. 
 It would seem to be evident that the exceedingly fine aroma which obtains 
 in the best samples of Stilton, Cheddar and Cheshire cheese, is secured, at 
 least in part, by manufacturing perfectly pure milk, in good condition, at low 
 temperature. 
 
 THE CHIEF CHAKACTERISTICS OF STILTON 
 
 are a peculiar delicacy of flavor, a delicious mellowness, and a great aptness 
 to acquii'e a species of artificial decay, without which, to the somewhat 
 vitiated taste of the lovers of Stilton cheese, as now eaten, it is not consid- 
 ered of prime account. To be in good order, according to the present 
 standard, it must be decayed, blue and moist. Considerable quantities of 
 Stilton, however, are sold in London free from mold, and good samples have 
 a peculiarly delicate flavor and delicious mellowness, preserving these quali- 
 ties for one or two yeai's. Now the Stilton is set at a low temperature — 
 about 78° — and after coagulation is perfected it is cut in blocks, and a short 
 time afterwards it is lifted out carefully into a willow basket to drain, and 
 then put into a small hoop and turned frequently, receiving no pressure 
 except from its own weight. 
 
 I do riot pi'opose to go into details of Stilton manufacture in this place 
 since it is not adapted to our factoiy system : but I introduce the main 
 feature to show in part the philosophy of cheese-making. Here, in this 
 most delicious of all cheeses, in which there is an extra amount of cream, a 
 
430 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 very low temperature is employed, with scarcely any manipulation. The 
 manipulations are not hastened, but the cheese is left, so to speak, to do its 
 own work. The Stilton cheeses are thick but small, only weighing from six 
 to eight pounds. Of course we could not make our large cheese in this way, 
 as the whey would not readily separate and pass off. But it is a remarkable 
 fact that these cheeses are capable of retaining a delicate flavor for a longp 
 time. In all the finest English cheeses coming under my observation theB 
 temperature for setting the milk ranged at about 78° to 82 '^, never above 
 84°. It is undoubtedly a fact that if coagulation takes j^lace when the milk, 
 is too warm it becomes too adhesive, and the oily parts of the milk, being] 
 kept in solution, escape with the whey. 
 
 THE AMERICAN AND CHEDDAR PROCESSES COMPARED. 
 
 The American process of manufacturing cheese as now commonly prac- 
 ticed, differs but little from the improved Cheddar process of England. The 
 night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together are taken to make the 
 cheese. One great feature in the Cheddar process is to understand pretty 
 accurately the condition of the milk in regard to its approximate acidity at 
 the time of commencing the operation of manufacturing. They prefer there- 
 fore to have the milk in a condition to use sour whey at the time of adding 
 the rennet. "When a large number of persons are delivering milk as at our 
 factories, it is impossible to judge so well how far the milk has progressed 
 toward sensible acidity, as in a single dairy where the milk is under the eye 
 of the manufacturer from first to last. 
 
 In the Cheddar practice the milk is set at a temperature of about 79° to 
 82°, receiving sour whey with the rennet according to the condition of the 
 milk. A quantity of rennet is added sufiicient to coagulate the mass in from 
 forty to sixty minutes. When firm enough to break, the curd is cut across 
 in checks. After it has stood from fifteen to twenty minutes for the whey to 
 form, and the curd to acquire a firm consistency, the Cheddar dairymen com- 
 mence breaking with a shovel breaker, which is similar in construction to our 
 factory agitator. The curd is handled very carefully until the whole is 
 minutely broken, and they insist that this part of the process shall be done 
 without any additional heat. After breaking, heat is applied, and the tem- 
 perature gradually raised to 98* or 100*, according to circumstances of 
 weather, etc., the mass meanwhile being carefully stirred. It is then left at 
 rest and only occasionally stirred, until a scarcely perceptible change toward 
 acidity is indicated in the whey ; the whey is then immediately drawn and 
 the curd heaped up in the vat to drain and develop the required acidity 
 gradually. It remains in this condition for half an hour or more, the whey 
 meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out and' placed in 
 the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand into thin flakes and spread 
 out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell, and is slightly 
 sour to the taste. 
 
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 431 
 
 It is left here to cool for fifteen minutes, when it is turned over and left 
 for the same length of time, or until it has the j^eculiar mellow or liakey feel 
 desired. It is then gathered up and put to press for ten minutes, when it is 
 taken out, ground in the curd-mill and salted at the rate of two pounds of 
 salt to one hundred and twelve pounds of curd. It then goes to press and is 
 kept under pressure two or three days. The curd when it goes to press 
 has a temperature of 60 ° to 65 ° , and when in the sink it is preferred not to go 
 below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during the 
 various parts of the process, during cool weather by throwing over it a thick 
 cloth. Much of our factory cheese has been injured by being put to press at 
 too high a temperature. The thermometer should always be used to determine 
 the condition of the curd when put to press ; and there is no doubt but that 
 the Cheddar dairymen have hit upon the proper temperature. 
 
 Mr. Harding, the great exponent of this system in England, told me he' 
 had made a great many experiments in this direction, and that a higher tem- 
 perature than 75° when put to press was almost always attended with loss of 
 flavor, undue fermentation, and, as a consequence, greater or less porosity. 
 He claimed that the curd could not be properly broken at 90 ® or above, and 
 that a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd was effected 
 by breaking at 75° to 80°. 
 
 What we are to learn by the Cheddar process, is not so much following 
 out blindly all details, but seizing upon a few leading principles of the process 
 and adapting them to our use. These princijDles may be briefly summed up 
 as follows: 1st. Studying the condition of the milk. 2d. Setting at a tem- 
 perature from 78° to 82°. 3d. Drawing the wey early. 4th. Exposing 
 the curd longer to the atmosphere and allowing it to perfect its acidity after 
 the whey is drawn. 5th. Putting in press before salting at a temperature of 
 60° to 70°. 6th. Grinding in a cui'd-mill and then salting. These last two 
 items are important, because you cannot regulate the salt accurately by guess, 
 and can only get the right proportion by uniformity in the condition of the 
 curd. The application of salt, too, at a higher temperature than 75° is 
 claimed to be prejudicial. 
 
 I am firmly of the opinion, not only from my observations abroad, but 
 from my own experiments, that the exposure of the curd in small particles 
 to the air is beneficial, and helps to secure a good flavor and mellowness of 
 texture. When curds are exposed to the atmosphere the external parts 
 become rapidly oxydized, which is seen by their heightened color. 
 
 FLOATING CURDS. 
 
 One of the troubles which cheese-makers have to contend with is a float- 
 ing curd. It means tainted milk, putrefaction, fermentation, a most disagree- 
 able customer, and one which no manufacturer cares to meet. There are 
 various ways of treating floating curds, but the main points to be observed 
 are, drawing the whey early, developing an acid, exposure of the curd to the 
 
432 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 atmosphere a long time, and grinding in a curd-mill. One experienced 
 cheese-maker writes me as follows : 
 
 " One morning in July last I noticed a peculiar odor in the milk which; 
 was delivered at the factory. I pi'onounced it tainted. The weather was' 
 warm and the milk from some of the dairies was quite near enough sour, 
 beino- so far advanced as to require rather rapid handling, faster than would 
 be profitable with milk in the proper condition. I exposed it to the air by 
 stirring it and dipping it, until ready to add the coloring and rennet, which 
 was done at a heat of 82°. 
 
 "The curd did not seem to act right while cooking; it would not come 
 down so as to present to the maker that feeling and appearance which indicate 
 a good cheese. The curd came to the surface of the whey while it was 
 cooking. The odor was so disagreeable that one of our hands could not bear 
 to work over it. One individual who was present insisted that the curd was 
 sour and the whey sweet, I could not see it so. I held it in the whey as 
 long as I thought advisable, which I assure you was not any longer than was 
 necessary to cook it fairly ; for I did not think tlie whey was improving it any. 
 The heat must have been nearly to 100°, when I ran it into the curd sink, for 
 I had been keeping up the heat hoping to cook it sufficiently. We stirred it 
 a long while in the sink, opening the windows and doors of the work-room, 
 in order to give it all the air possible. I salted it in the j^roportion of three 
 pounds of salt to one thousand pounds of milk, and put it to press. After press- 
 ing for perhaps an hour, turned and bandaged them, then pressed again, until 
 the next morning, Avhen they were placed upon the shelves in the drying-room. 
 
 " I saw by the next da^ that they were inclined to give me trouble. They 
 commenced rising en masse, like a loaf of bread. They did not leak whey, 
 but there seemed to be a sort of internal working, and Avhen pressed upon 
 with the hand would emit a hissing sort of noise. I determined to experi- 
 ment. I cut one into slices and ground it up in the curd-mill. The odor that 
 had been present in the vat had not all left. I warmed a pailful of whey of 
 the day before to 100° and poured it upon the curd. I kept the whey upon 
 the curd but a short time, just long enough to warm it, say five minutes. I 
 then added as much salt as I thought the whey had taken out, then pressed, 
 turned and bandaged as before. When placed upon the shelf the next day it 
 felt firm and had every appearance of lying quiet. I treated the other three 
 in the same manner and with a similar result. We kept those cheeses until 
 about forty days' old. They never raised in the least again. I called the 
 attention of several buyers and professed judges of cheese to them, and they, 
 without an exception, pronounced them ' all right.' They were firm, never 
 showing a pore when tried ; still, they were not over hard. The odor had so 
 much left them that our buyers were imable to detect it. Perhaps upon 
 other occasions the same process may not prove as satisfactory as upon this. 
 Be that as it may, I feel confident that I saved four cheeses, which promised 
 to be a total loss." 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 433 
 
 He adds, " That when the cheeses were cut open for grinding, they were 
 very porous, presenting the appearance of a loaf of bread, which if possible, 
 had been over-risen." 
 
 MR. irons' process. 
 
 Mr. Irons, a young Englishman, whom Mr. Harding of England sent to 
 me in the spring of 1868, and who has been managing some factories at the 
 West since that time, says he has tried various modes of treating floating 
 curds, and finds by the following process that he is able to make from such 
 curds a cheese of good texture and taste. 
 
 When the appearance of the whey shows numerous air bubbles floating 
 in, or forming by the slightest agitation of the finger, and also a kind of 
 greasy feeling of the curd, all of which ai-e indications of an unusual fermen- 
 tation, proceed with the process as at other times, only working a little 
 slower. The temperature should not be raised above 100°. If you are in 
 the habit of making coarse curds, then on this occasion they should be worked 
 a little finer with the agitator. When the mass has been raised to the 
 desired temperature the stirring should be continued for about half an hour. 
 Then leave it to rest for a short time, or with only an occasional stirring. 
 When you see the curds beginning to float upon the whey let them all come 
 up, and then immediately draw the whey. The whey having been removed 
 pack the curd in large heajis at the bottom of the vat, with a space down the 
 middle for the whey to drain off, and which should be removed as fast as it 
 gathers. When the curd has lain in this shaiDC for about fifteen minutes, or 
 until strong enough to bear turning, the heaps should be turned bottom side 
 up, and, if possible, without breaking the curd. 
 
 Now, let it lie, till the acid is properly developed, which will be indicated 
 by the odor when opening one of the heaps in the center, and it will have a 
 kind of flaky appearance, or as some have it, a kind of grain. Then break 
 the heaps into tliree or four pieces, and spread over the bottom of the vat to 
 cool gradually. When the pieces have laid thus for about fifteen or twenty 
 minutes take them out of the vat, put them in the sink and break them into 
 small pieces, and stir so as to cool. When the temperature has been reduced 
 to about 70° to 75°, grind in a curd-mill and salt at the rate of two and 
 a-half pounds salt to one thousand (1,000) pounds of milk. It would be 
 better to put the mass to press for about ten minutes before grinding, but 
 when there is a large mass of curd, and time is wanting, the course above 
 may be adopted. 
 
 Mr. Ikons says he has under this treatment of floating curds, made them 
 into good cheese, so good, indeed, that experienced cheese-dealers have not 
 objected to their flavor, or even suspected that there had been any trouble 
 with the curds more than ordinarily. The cheese, he adds, is of very solid 
 texture, and no difficulty is had in curing, except the liability to check a little 
 if care is not taken. 
 
 Mr. Moon, manager of the North Fairfield Factory, gives the following 
 28 
 
434 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 as his method of treating tainted milk and floating curds : — First, thorough 
 Btirrino- and cooling of the milk at night. In the moi-ning do not begin to 
 heat the milk until ready to heat rapidly, and then heat as quickly as possible, 
 stirring the milk the while. Add an extra amount of rennet that the coagu- 
 lation may be quite firm, cut and manipulate with unusual caution ; keep the 
 whey drawn off as close as possible ; heat gradually but continually until the 
 temperature of about 98° is attained, then, when sufficiently cooked, dip to 
 the sink and wait for the developemcnt of the lactic acid, in more than the 
 usual quantity ; salt and allow to stand exposed to the air from one to three 
 hours, according as the milk was bad or very bad. 
 
 " Frequently," he says, " the acid will be developed enough when dipped 
 to the sink ; in that case salt as soon as drained ; stir the curd before and 
 after salting, in order that it may not pack in the sink. Having been exposed 
 to the air for the proper length of time, jDut to j^ress ; in the morning remove 
 the hoop, and perforate the cheese in several places with a small wdre, in order 
 to allow any gas to escape that may have been generated in the cheese during 
 the night. Put to press again, and if possible, allow to press twenty-four 
 hours longer, remove to the dry-house and treat like other cheese." 
 
 Mr. Alexandee McAdam, of the Smith Creek Factory, N. Y., who has 
 been very successful as a manufacturer of "fancy cheese," and whose cheese 
 is well-known in the markets on account of its superior quality, writes me in 
 a recent letter as follows : 
 
 CAUSE OP FLOATING CURDS. 
 
 "The immediate cause of floating curds is the presence in each particle or 
 cube of an extraordinary number of the spores of a species of fungus, which 
 generate a gas in the middle of each cube of curd at the time when the curd 
 is in the whey at a temperature of from 80° to 96°, Avhen each cube of curd 
 is expanded by this gas so much as to become lighter than its bulk of whey 
 — there occurs a floating curd. 
 
 " The reason why those spores are in so great abundance at times as to 
 cause floating curds are two, viz. : First, diseased or fevered state of the cow 
 before the milk is drawn from her. Second, improper handling of the milk 
 after being drawn from the cow. In regard to the first reason, there are a 
 great many cows slightly diseased or fevered, a few of the causes of which, are 
 cows drinking stagnant, putrid or filthy water ; the eating of vegetation 
 growing on ground saturated with such water ; cows inhaling the odor 
 arising from rapidly decomposing matter ; cows in heat, or having been 
 driven rapidly from the pasture ; or any state of the cow which causes the milk 
 to be at a higher temperature than blood heat (98°) when drawn from her, 
 which in a great many instances is the case, and it has been known to be as 
 high as 105° when milked. Such milk, when it has been coagulated and 
 heated, is almost certain to produce floating curds. 
 
 " In the second place, when the milk has been improperly handled after 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 435 
 
 being drawn from the cow. This is the case when any filth, cow manure, 
 or other impurity drops into the milk during milking, or in its transit 
 from the farm to the cheese factory, and which can never afterwards be 
 wholly removed from it bypassing it even through the finest strainer; or 
 when the milk has come into contact with any utensils or strainers which 
 have not been thoroughly cleansed ; or when the milk has not been thoroughly 
 ventilated before being shut up in almost air-tight vessels. These are some 
 of the most frequent causes of floating curds. 
 
 PREVENTION OF FLOATING CUEDS. 
 
 " To px-event floating curds, the milk intended to be manufactured into 
 cheese ought to be milked from cows that have access at all times to pure 
 running water, and have no access at all to stagnant, filthy water, as cows 
 will often prefer such filthy water to clean water (for reasons unknown). 
 Every one of the cows of a dairy ought to be in perfect health, as one dis- 
 eased cow's milk Avill taint the milk from the whole dairy. Dairy cows ought 
 not to have access to weeds of any description, and ought to have plenty of 
 shade trees in their pasture in warm weather, and when driven to and from 
 their pastures they ought not to be urged faster than a slow walk, and before 
 being milked they ought to be allowed to stand one hour in cool, airy stables 
 at a distance from manure heaps or any decomposing matter. 
 
 " After standing an hour the cows ought to be milked with the most scru- 
 pulous cleanliness, and the milk strained. It must tlien be immediately venti- 
 lated by exposure to the atmosphere to allow the animal odor to escape, and 
 cooled. But cooling without ventilation is almost useless, or as some assert, 
 worse than useless. The milk being cooled and ventilated, it can then be 
 moved to the factory, and will arrive there in good condition. All the uten- 
 sils with which the milk comes in contact ought to be thoroughly cleaned 
 with warm water, soap and a brush, and afterwards scalded with boiling 
 water or steam. All these particulars being attended to there will be no 
 danger of floating curds. 
 
 THE EEMEDY FOR FLOATING CURDS. 
 
 "When the milk which has to be manufactured into cheese emits the 
 offensive odors which usually come from tainted milk, it is reasonably certain 
 the curd after coagulation will either float or require the same treatment as 
 if it did float. In such a case enough of rennet must be added so as to cause 
 coagulation in thirty minutes or less. Then, after the cm-d is sufficiently cut, 
 the mass of curd and whey must be heated quickly to a temperature of 96°, 
 and so allowed to remain until acid is slightly perceptible to the smell or 
 taste, the whey must then be separated from the curd, and the curd allowed 
 to take on considerable more acid. The exact pitch to which the acid should 
 be raised at this time can only be learned by experience ; when this has been 
 attained the curd should be then ground and salted according to the Cheddar 
 process, which is becoming too common to need explanation. After the curd 
 
436 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 is salted it should be thoroughly ventilated by repeated stirring and turning 
 over before being j^ut to press. The amount of salt to be used should be 
 the same as when the curd is perfect. The reason that more rennet is required 
 for floating curd is because such curd has to be made sooner than usual, and 
 would take longer to cure if only the same amount of rennet was used. And 
 the reason it is heated quickly is to induce the acid to develop sooner. 
 
 " A strictly fine-flavored or good-keeping cheese can not be made from 
 floatino- curds, but still when properly handled a very fair, merchantable 
 article can be obtained, the only fault being insipidity and lack of the fine 
 nutty aroma so highly prized by the dealers in and consumers of all kinds of 
 high-priced cheese. The reason that this aroma is lost in floating curds is 
 because so much acid has to be introduced into the curd to kill the taint or 
 bad smell. Kow, this acid also destroys the finest of the aroma, which is the 
 most volatile and easily destroyed in either butter or cheese." 
 
 TKEATMENT OF rLOATING CURDS. 
 
 In the treatment of floating curds, a mill for grinding the curds renders 
 very important aid. By grinding, the particles of curd are more minutely 
 broken than it is easy to do by hand, and the breaking liberates not only the 
 gases, but, by a free exposure of the particles to the air, the ofiensive odor 
 passes off, and fermentation is checked. In some cases, even after the 
 cheeses have been removed from the press to the curing room, and then 
 begun to huff and behave badly, by cutting them up and passing through a 
 curd mill, warming with whey at a temperature of 98°, and then draining, 
 salting and pressing, no further trouble has been given, the cheese turning 
 out of fair quality. As more or less trouble is had every year, from tainted 
 milk and floating curds, suggestions as to their management will be of 
 important aid to the cheese manufacturer. 
 
 MANUFACTURING FROM SMALL QUANTITIES OF MILK. 
 
 Where only one vat is used, I should always prefer the portable vat, with 
 heater attached. It is quite as convenient, and much less expensive, not 
 only in the original outlay, but in the cost of running, than the steam boiler 
 and vat separated, like those in use in many of the New York factories. In 
 a small factory, where there is no probability of running more than two vats, 
 and where part of the time only one is used, I should still prefer the " porta- 
 ble " or " self-heater," as less expensive, while, as to the management of 
 heat, some of these self-heating vats are as perfect as anything yet brought 
 out. So far as the manufacture of cheese is concerned there is nothing better 
 than to heat with hot water, if the arrangements are such as to be convenient, 
 and the heat under control. The advantages of a steam boiler are, that the 
 boiler is in a separate room by itself, and all litter, dirt, smoke, &c., are con- 
 fined to that apartment, and do not get " mixed up " in the milk room, while 
 the heat is applied simply by turning a faucet in the conducting pipe. Then, 
 again, the heat can be turned off in a moment. On these accounts many old 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 437 
 
 factorymen prefer steam boilers to the " self-heaters." The Ralph, the 
 Millar and the Burkell heaters are good, so far as their arrangements for 
 heating and manufacturing are concerned. They take but very little fuel. 
 
 SOUR WHEY. 
 
 The use of sour whey in cheese-making must be regulated according to 
 the condition of the milk. If the milk has made progress toward acidity, so 
 that it Avill be properly developed at the close of the j^rocess of cheese- 
 making, the sour whey is not needed. But in cool weather, when the milk 
 has been brought down to a low temperature, an acid condition of the curds 
 is not easily developed, at least during the ordinary time for conducting the 
 process of cheese-making. Sour Avhey, under such circumstances, is often 
 used with great advantage. In the spring of the year, when the cows are 
 " between hay and grass," it is sometimes quite difficult for the cheese-maker 
 to turn off a nice quality of cheese. The curds are often run up too sweet, 
 and the consequence is a soft, spongy product, containing a superabundance 
 of whey which has not been properly separated, and could not be expelled 
 while the cheese was in press. This could have been remedied by a proper 
 application of sour ivhey. 
 
 At cheese factories there is not usually that necessity for using sour whey 
 as at farm dairies, because the milk, from cartage and other causes, has gen- 
 erally progressed further toward acidity, when cheese-making commences, 
 than it would had the milk been kept and made up at the farm dairy. But, 
 though the necessity for using sour whey may not be so great at the factory 
 as at the farm, there are times when it can be employed in factory manufac- 
 ture to very great advantage. 
 
 At the farm dairy, M^hen the night's milk has been cooled down to 45°, 
 we should say that the sour whey could be used ; for, if all utensils have been 
 kept scrupulously clean, the milk will be very sweet, and will not readily 
 develop the desired change in proper time, or during the time usually 
 employed in the process of manufacture into cheese, unless so treated. Sour 
 whey cannot be used at random, but in the hands of skillful cheese-makers it 
 produces the very best results. 
 
 cooling the morning's mess or milk at farm dairies. 
 
 As to the question of removing the animal heat from the morning's milk 
 for farm dairies, when the night's milk has been cooled, as described above, 
 it is not usually considered important to do so. If the morning's milk is to 
 be carted to the factory, there is no question but it should be thoroughly 
 cooled before putting in the cans, or as soon as may be after being drawn 
 from the cow. And I have no doubt, for private dairies, the milk for cheese- 
 making, both morning and evening mess, is improved by being divested of 
 animal heat. In the private dairy, however, it must be observed, the 
 quantity of milk to be handled is comparatively small. The morning's milk 
 
438 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 is added by degrees, or only as fast as drawn from the cow, and is at least 
 partly cooled by coming in contact with the night's milk. And, again, the 
 vat being open so as to allow free exposure to the air, while the process of 
 cheese-making is commenced at once, all would seem to indicate that a 
 special cooling of the morning's milk might, perhaps, be dispensed with. If, 
 however, convenient apparatus be had for cooling the morning's milk as 
 soon as drawn from the cow, so that it could be readily done, without loss 
 of time or causing much trouble, I should do so, since I am of the opinion a 
 more delicately flavored cheese would result from cooling and aerating both 
 the night's and morning's mess of milk. But without apparatus or conven- 
 iences, it would not, perhaps, be advisable to spend much time and trouble 
 in attempting to cool the morning's milk for farm dairies. 
 
 COLOPaJVG CHEESE. 
 
 An attempt has been made, from time to time, to induce factories to 
 abandon the use of coloring matter in cheese. The fact that annatto (the 
 only coloring matter that should ever be used for this purpose) adds nothing 
 to the flavor or nutrition of cheese, would seem to favor the discontinuance 
 of a practice which is troublesome, attended with expense, and sometimes 
 injurious on account of the adulterations of annatto with red lead and other 
 poisonous compounds. Pure annatto is a harmless vegetable substance, pre- 
 pared from the seeds of a tree {Bixa orelkma), and when used in the ordi- 
 nary way for coloring cheese is in no way injurious. Its employment for 
 this purpose comes down to us from the mother country. I do not know 
 when or by whom the practice was first inaugurated, but it is of ancient 
 date, and its object nmst have been to deceive consumers, by giving them 
 the idea that the cheese was made from a very rich quality of milk. And 
 that impression now generally prevails among the uninitiated. So much has 
 the imagination to do in controlling human action, that I have seen poor, 
 skim-milk cheese highly colored, preferred and purchased instead of a rich, 
 nice-flavored, pale cheese, -both standing on the counter, and offered at the 
 same price. Color, therefore, has an important influence with some people, 
 and It is useless for the dairyman to " run his head" against this prejudice, 
 unless he chooses to have his pockets depleted by lower sales. 
 
 It is true, in some of the English markets, like Manchester, for instance, 
 pale cheese is m favor, and finds a better price than the colored article ; but 
 the London trade insists upon color, and as it is willing to pay for it, Amer- 
 ican dairymen must for the present submit. Some people think that, by 
 abandomng the use of annatto, we can correct the English prejudice for 
 colored cheese, and thereby benefit all parties. It would be an absurd and 
 tutiJe effort on our part, and would simply give the English dairymen addi- 
 tional advantage m their own markets ; for you cannot force people to pur- 
 chase what they do not want, however excellent your argument may be 
 against their prejudices. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 439 
 
 method of pbepaeixg basket annatto for use. 
 
 Some of the methods employed by old and experienced dairymen for 
 preparing annatto for coloring cheese are as follows : 
 
 First Recipe. — Dissolve six pounds concentrated potash and one pound 
 saltpeter in five gallons of warm water ; then add thirty gallons cold water, 
 put in as much choice annatto as the liquid will dissolve, heat gently to a 
 boil ; put into a cask, and store in a cool place. 
 
 Second Recipe. — Dissolve four pounds potash in one-half barrel of water ; 
 put in as much pure annatto as the liquid will cut. The mixture need not 
 be boiled. 
 
 Third Recipe. — Take four pounds of best annatto, two pounds concen- 
 trated potash, five ounces saltpeter, one and a-half pounds sal-soda, and five 
 gallons boiling water. Put the ingredients into a tub, and pour on the 
 boiling water. 
 
 The annatto should be inclosed in a cloth, and, as it dissolves, squeeze it 
 through the cloth into the liquid. About two ounces of this mixture is 
 sufiicient for one hundred pounds of curd in summer. 
 
 EECIPE FOE PEEPARING ANIfATTO USED AT BROCKETt's BRIDGE FACTORY. 
 
 To eight pounds crude annatto, add three pounds Babbitt's concentrated 
 potash ; place in a cask, pour on boiling water, and stir frequently until all 
 is dissolved. Water is then added to make it sufficiently diluted, so that a 
 pint of the liquid will color four thousand pounds of milk. In coloring 
 cheese, the best way is to fix upon the desired shade by trial (marking the 
 quantity of liquid used), and after that is known the same proportion will 
 give color that is uniform. 
 
 annattoine. 
 
 Preparations of liquid annatto have been made and sold from time to time, 
 some of which, like the Nichols & English preparation, have acquired a 
 hio-h reputation. The foreign liquid annattoes, however, are expensive, and 
 their high cost has operated very much against their use among the factories. 
 Recently a new preparation of annatto has been brought out by G. De Cor- 
 dova, under the name of annattoine, or dry extract of annatto. The coloring 
 material, which lies wholly on the surface of the seeds, is separated and pre- 
 pared by Cordova by an improvement on the La Blond and Vauquelin 
 theories. The latter asserts that boiling injures the color, and as this has 
 been clearly proven, Cordova reduces the precipitation to powder instead of 
 boiling to a paste. In the spring of 1870 I made tests with the annattoine 
 in coloring both butter and cheese, and found that it gave a clear and beauti- 
 ful shade, equal to any preparation that I had seen, but on dissolving or cutting 
 the annattoine in the usual manner I found the liquor on standing was inclined 
 to form a coagulum. Soon after this time Mr. D. H. Burrell of Little Falls 
 entered upon a series of experiments for the purpose of overcoming this diffi- 
 culty. In this he has been entirely successful, and we now have a perfect color- 
 
440 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 ing material, free from any injurious adulterations, and a preparation which 
 has given satisfaction to both factories and shippers. Indeed, some of the latter 
 have expressed the opinion that cheese colored with this preparation retains 
 flavor better and for longer periods than cheese colored with the common 
 basket annatto. The annattoine is largely coming into use among the facto- 
 ries, and is superseding all other preparations. Prof. Caldwell, who has 
 made an analysis of the annattoine, certifies as to its purity or freedom from 
 deleterious adulterations, and we are therefore enabled to obtain a reliable 
 coloring material at moderate cost. 
 
 Mr. Buerell's recipe for cutting the annattoine is as follows : — Put two 
 pounds of annattoine in four gallons of clear, cold water, and let it stand in 
 this state one day, stirring thoroughly, meantime, so as to perfectly dissolve 
 the annattoine. Then put two pounds strongest potash, and one pound 
 sal-soda (carbonate of soda) in three gallons of cold water. When this is 
 perfectly dissolved and settled, pour off the clear liquor, and mix the two 
 preparations together. Let this compound stand two or three days, until the 
 annattoine is cut or dissolved perfectly by the potash, stirring occasionally 
 meantime. Use about a teacupful for a thousand pounds of milk. Do not 
 mix with the rennet, but put it in a little milk and then mix in the mass of 
 milk in the vats by stirring it in thoroughly, just before the rennet is used. 
 If in a day or two after the preparation is made the annattoine does not seem 
 to be perfectly cut, so that specks can be seen, it is certain that the potash 
 was not strong enough. Adding more of a stronger solution of the potash 
 will remedy the trouble. When annattoine is used for coloring butter a 
 portion of the prepared liquor is added to the cream at the commencement 
 of churning. It gives a very rich color, and may be used in winter-made 
 butter, often with advantage. 
 
 CUTTING THE CUEDS. 
 
 The steel curd-knife now in general use was invented some dozen years 
 ago or thereabouts, by a Herkimer county dairyman. The old-fashioned curd- 
 knife was of wood, a single blade, and a rude aifair. The curds were cut 
 into large blocks, and all the subsequent breaking was done with the hands. 
 This necessitated a good deal of labor, and unless the curds were very care- 
 fully handled, there was a considerable loss of cheese. The first improvement 
 in this class of implements originated also in Herkimer, and consisted of a 
 triangular iron frame, strung with brass wire. It was made of diflferent 
 sizes to correspond with the cheese-tub, half its diameter in length, so that 
 going round with the breaker in the operation, no section of the curds would 
 be broken twice. This was a great improvement over the wooden knife and 
 hand breaking ; but after a while it was found objectionable, as the tender 
 curds were torn and mashed by the frame of the breaker, and by the points 
 where the wires crossed each other in forming the checks. 
 
 The next improvement was a breaker of tin, formed into checks, so as to 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. . 441 
 
 cut the curd into long square strips as the instrument was pushed down to 
 the bottom of the vat. I made some experiments with the tin and wire 
 breakers at an early day, and found there was a saving in product by using 
 the tin. When the gang of steel knives was invented for cutting the curds 
 into perpendicular columns, further experiments were made, and a decided 
 advantage in product was found to result from the use of sharp, cuttino- 
 blades over the tin cutter, which did not divide the curd as smoothly as the 
 polished steel blades. These experiments, extended over a considerable 
 period and conducted with care, convinced me that the first breakino- of the 
 tender curds should be done with sharp cutting blades ; since not one cheese- 
 maker in a hundred will use sufficient care in breaking Avith the hands to 
 avoid the loss that can be saved by the use of the steel knives, to say nothing 
 of the labor and time gained by the knives over hand breaking. If it be 
 admitted that these shai'p, polished steel blades are better for breakino- the 
 curds in their tender state than the hands, or indeed than any device that 
 tears the mass into particles, that bruises them or presses out the oily portion, 
 then the whole of the breaking should be done with knives. 
 
 The use of horizontal knives is only of recent introduction among the 
 factories of New York. The perpendicular blades referred to above left the 
 curds in cubical columns, which were to be in some way broken up, and it 
 was done either by the hands, by an agitator, or by other imperfect means. 
 Some of the best English cheese-makers use what is called the shovel-breaker 
 for working or breaking the curds after the first cutting. It is of heavy 
 wire, something in general form like a shovel, and attached to a long handle. 
 They claim that in using this the curd splits apart in grains naturally, and 
 hence the shovel breaker, skillfully used, is the best implement for the pur- 
 pose that has yet been invented. As, until quite recently, they knew nothing 
 of the operations of the American knives, and as their product from a given 
 quantity of milk is less than that turned ofi" by skillful American manufac- 
 turers, it is evident they are not competent, at present, to pass upon the 
 merits of this improved American implement. 
 
 In the best English methods of cheese-making, as well as in the best 
 American processes, it is deemed important that the breaking should be done 
 when the curds are young and before additional heat is applied. All cheese- 
 makers agree that any rough handling of curds at this early stage must be 
 attended with loss. But if we can have an implement or implements that 
 will pass through the curds perpendicularly and horizontally, separating the 
 mass into parts of the desired size, and doing the work without any undue 
 agitation or bruising of the mass, a great desideratum, it would seem, is 
 reached. The perpendicular and horizontal curd-knives when used in con- 
 nection with each other do this most effectually. The horizontal knives cut 
 the long, perpendicular blocks of curd into small pieces of uniform size, 
 leaving the mass completely broken up. 
 
 I experimented with the horizontal knives long before they were brought 
 
442 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 out or used in tlie dairies of New York. The knives were made expressly 
 for my experiments by Mr. Otsten of Little Falls, who had proposed at the 
 time to take out a patent upon them. He did not do so, and the principle 
 suggested itself to others, and is now adopted at factories. 
 
 In a recent conversation with Mr. Davis, who owns and operates a fac- 
 tory in Herkimer, IST. Y., he stated that he found from experiments that a 
 considerable gain Avas effected in the quantity of cheese by the use of the 
 horizontal knives, and that by their use also the quality of his cheese was 
 greatly improved. Mr. Davis is a manufacturer of experience, and his cheese 
 has a high reputation for excellence, bringing a high price in the markets. 
 Others make similar statements. 
 
 From what has been said it will be seen that in factories of any consider- 
 able size, the horizontal knives, in connection with the others, save during the 
 season a large amount of labor, while the work is better performed than by 
 operating on the old plan, as every portion of the mass is divided in i^ieces 
 of uniform size. The object of cutting or breaking the curds is to favor the 
 expulsion of whey ; hence, when the mass is broken up into pieces all of the 
 same size, the progress and condition of the curds from time to time are more 
 uniform in all their parts ; and this is an important point Avhich many cheese- 
 makers overlook in their operations. The principle to be observed is to 
 treat every portion of the curd alike, so far as possible, in all its manipula- 
 tions, and then Ave get a product upon Avhich fermentation during the curing 
 process Avill go on evenly, and good flavor is more readily secured, than Avhen 
 the particles of the curd are unlike, or not in the same condition. 
 
 USE OF HEAT IST CHEESE MAKING. 
 
 The term " cooking the curd " in cheese making is a misnomer. It con- 
 A-eys to the mind a Avrong impression and leads many astray. To make 
 cheese properly, neither the milk nor the curds should be " cooked." The 
 more you approximate to the cooking process the more you injure the 
 cheese. Animal bodies are not cooked at a temperature of blood heat. As 
 a rule in cheese making, no part of the process requires a temperature above 
 blood heat. One hundred degrees is the maximum temperature that can be 
 employed Avith safety. This is tAvo degrees above blood heat, and is admis- 
 sible only Avhen heat is liable to pass off rapidly, and for the purpose of 
 holding the mass at 98°. Heat is constantly passing off from the whey and 
 curds, and the loss is more rapid Avhen the temperature of the surrounding 
 atmosphere is low. It is more rapid AA^hen a small quantity of milk is used than 
 Avhen a large quantity is collected together, hence we sometimes employ a 
 temperature one or tAvo degrees above blood heat in the process of solidifying 
 the curds, in order to meet this loss of heat. It is a well recognized fact in 
 cheese making that fine quality and delicate flavor cannot be secured when 
 high heat is used in manipulating the curds. The best cheese are made at 
 low temperatures, and when dairymen fancy the curd must be cooked to 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 443 
 
 preserve it, they have an erroneous idea of the true principles of clieese 
 making. 
 
 The raanuiacture of cheese is in part a chemical process. We have a 
 material composed of various constituents, and the art is to separate these 
 constituents, selecting those required to form cheese and expelling the others. 
 Milk as it comes from the cow is properly prepared for food. It needs no 
 further cooking to be assimilated, and what the cheese maker Avants is to 
 extract the caseine and butter, getting rid of the water and reducing the mass 
 to a solid. The butter is not improved by cooking, neither is the caseine, and 
 hence, as we find in practice, the best cheese is made when neither the milk 
 nor the curds have been subjected to so high a heat as would cook them. 
 After the curds are broken up we use heat for the purpose of expelling the 
 whey. A change is constantly going on. The heat assists in developing an 
 acid, which causes the curds to contract, expelling the whey. The process 
 of separating the whey should be slow, and the whey should flow away 
 gradually, otherwise there is a loss of oily particles. The butter is contained 
 in the shells of caseine and is not acted upon by rennet. If the contraction 
 of the caseine is rapid, the oily globules are forced out Avith the whey, instead 
 of being retained and amalgamated with the mass, and you have a tough, 
 leathery cheese. Milk which is exposed to the atmosphere and warmth 
 begins to put on an acid condition as soon as drawn from the cow. In cheese 
 making we want to carry this acid just far enough to expel the surplus whey, 
 retaining the butter and a certain amount of moisture. If Ave stop short of 
 the required point, too much whey Aviil be retained and cannot be pressed out. 
 
 When the cheese is put upon the shelf this pent up whey decomposes, 
 becomes acid, and jjarts from the caseine, and we have a leaky cheese. If 
 the cheese is kept in a Avarm place and the whey is soon expelled, the cheese, 
 though defective in flavor, may pass as second rate ; but if the whey cannot 
 find an exit, it soon becomes sour and putrid, and the cheese, in consequence, 
 is positively bad. On the other hand, Avhen the acid is carried too far, the 
 curds part with too much moisture and Ave have a hard, dry cheese. What 
 is understood, then, by the terra " cooking the curd," is the application of a 
 gentle heat for the i:)urpose of developing a certain degree of acidity, that 
 the whey may properly 2:>art from the solids, a sufficient amount being 
 retained to carry on the process of fermentation Avhen the cheese goes into 
 the curing-room. It is very difficult to carry this acid to the proper j^oint 
 while the whey is in the vat. It is preferable, therefore, to draw the Avhey 
 as soon as acidity becomes perceptible to the taste or smell, and allow a 
 further development in the curds after the Avhey is drawn. 
 
 A good many cheese makers who get the idea that curds must be cooked 
 like a piece of meat, often spoil their cheese by applying heat too rapidly and 
 running the mass up at too high a temperature. They do not seem to under- 
 stand the leading principle of this part of the process, which is a slow 
 development of acid in the curds. Instead of heating gradually and watching 
 
b5s 
 
 444 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 for tliis development, they push the heat, thinking they can effect their object 
 in cooking ; the consequence is, an inferior product, destitute of that quality 
 and flavor that the market now demands. 
 
 VIEVrS OF AIR. FISH ON HEAT IJT CHEESE MAKING. 
 
 In discussing the question of heat in cheese making, Mr. A. L. Fish of 
 Herkimer, N. Y., well known as a distinguished practical cheese manufac- 
 turer, as well as one of the early Avriters on dairy farming, has recently 
 presented the following as his matured views on the subject of heat, and they 
 deserve attention. He says:— "In contemplating the agency of heat in 
 making and curing cheese, we are led to consider that cheese has a physical 
 constitution, like other bodies, subject to growth and decay, that require a list 
 of substances, in their formation, which is assimilated by special agencies and 
 brought to an equipoise ; in other words, brought into such a condition that 
 opposing forces balance each other equally. Such a condition we denominate 
 the constitution of animate and inanimate bodies. The condition or power 
 to hold an equipoise or equilibrium of opposing forces, determines the 
 liability to slow or more speedy decay and dissolution. I have hinted the 
 capacity of heat to prevent and destroy consolidation; also, its indispensable 
 agency in inducing relation and union of extraneous matter in forming solids. 
 Its most judicious appliance in cheese making, where it is required to serve 
 a double purpose, is the question to be discussed. First, what is a proper 
 temperature to apply to the fluid mass (milk), in bringing it to condition 
 most favorable for the aid and action of rennet in separating and dispelling 
 such a portion of fluid j^arts as desirable, and no more, and why ? My answer 
 is, not exceeding 98°, because that is the point nature has fixed to sustain 
 the most healthy and active condition in the animal organism. Hence, a 
 higher temperature weakens the action of the rennet in bringing the mass to 
 a unity. Any excess of heat applied to a part unfits it for a union with other 
 parts. Solids are formed by cohesive attraction, which draws particles of 
 matter of a sameness together. Any agency or condition that makes these 
 unlike, prevents a perfect union. In cheese, it is manifest in swelling after 
 being pressed, or by a rough, sticky, or crackly surface, and a lack of close 
 adhesiveness of the meat of the cheese, which indicate that the agencies used 
 in forming its constitution have not been equipoised in the process of manu- 
 facture. Such a condition involves the question, which of the agencies used 
 is in fault ? 
 
 INJUDICIOUS USE OF HEAT. 
 
 " Some will say weak rennet, premature acidity, putrefactive fermenta- 
 tion from some unknown cause, &c. ; but few seem to appreciate that an 
 injudicious use of heat may be a fruitful cause, while a proper use might be 
 a preventive. I trust all practical cheese makers will agree with us in the 
 assertion that curd having been exposed to 140° heat, and mixed with other 
 curd not exposed to over 100°, will not make a good cheese; if so, does it 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 445 
 
 not follow logically, that any portion of the milk or curd exposed to that 
 degree of high heat, will not unite harmoniously with other portions exposed 
 to much less heat ? If such a varied condition is admitted to he wrong, the 
 next question is, do we practice it, and if so, what is a remedy ? From my 
 observations in the usual mode of managing heat in milk and curd, and 
 curino--rooms, I am convinced that sufficient care is not taken to suppress the 
 action of heat when less is needed ; hence a large proportion of the imperfec- 
 tions of our factory cheese is traceable to an injudicious management of heat. 
 In explanation, I will address myself to the patrons of cheese factories first, 
 because with them lies the first practical remedy, as they have the ability to 
 suppress the action of heat upon the milk before it reaches the factorymen, 
 by stirring and cooling it immediately after it is drawn from the cows, which 
 should always be done to guard against the tendency of heat to induce acidity 
 and putrescence. If the habit of thus cooling the milk to a low temperature 
 was universal among dairymen, it would result in a profit that is now lost to 
 all interested. The advantages would be more pounds and better quality of 
 cheese from a given amount of milk, because the manufacturer would not be 
 compelled to use means to hasten the separation of fluid portions of milk 
 from the caseine too rapidly, which is always wasteful. 
 
 BEST MODE OF APPLYING HEAT. 
 
 " In considering the best mode of applying heat to the mass of milk or 
 curd, I shall not favor or discard any patent or fixture now used for that 
 purpose, but will lay down as a practical rule (and would invite the attention 
 of skilled mechanics to it) that an apparatus or fixture by which heat is 
 imparted or conveyed to the mass, the mildest and most uniformly to every 
 part, and having otherwise the most perfect control of heat, is to be preferred, 
 because a uniform low temperature conveyed to every part and particle of 
 the mass, is the principle relied on to preserve a perfect affinity or sameness 
 of condition. To insure the most perfect cheese, the less antagonism induced 
 in the process of manufacture the more perfect cheese will be attained. Con- 
 veying heat by any means into a thin sheet or volume of water contained 
 between the outer and inner vat I consider injudicious, because there is not 
 water enough to soften the heat before it comes in contact with the inner vat 
 containing the milk or curd. I am not able to understand how a large vat 
 of milk or curd can be heated by discharging steam or boiling water into a 
 thin sheet of water between vats Avithout some portions of it coming in 
 contact with a surface heated to a point that Avill melt the buttery globules 
 and otherwise imfit it to harmonize with other portions not so exposed. I 
 have frequently examined the heated surface of inner vats, and found it so 
 heated as to burn my flesh, and an oily substance floating on the whey, and 
 clots of curd resting on the overheated surface melted together, and I did 
 not Avonder that cheese made with such practice got out of flavor and 
 became unsalable. 
 
'^^S Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 GUARD AGAINST OVERHEATING. 
 
 " As a guard against thus overheating I would suggest a widening and 
 enlargement of the heating medium between the vats, so that the heat con- 
 veyed through it will be softened and equalized before coming in contact 
 with the inner vat. It should be held in view by the vat builder, that the I 
 wider the space between the points of discharging heat, and the vat containing 
 the milk or curd to be hot, the softer and mere uniform will be the effect of 
 heat, and the less liability to a deranged constitution in the cheese. When 
 heat and rennet in their joint action are supposed to have dispelled a desired 
 portion of the fluid of milk, it is essential to arrest uniformly their further 
 progress through the whole mass to preserve an affinity of the parts to be 
 pressed into cheese. This should not be done too suddenly before adding 
 salt, as a sudden chill of the curd would cause it to reject the effect of salt 
 to properly season the curd, which, while warm, has a tendency to expel 
 animal odors if thoroughly stirred in cooling. After being salted warm, and 
 packed, and covered to steep for ten minutes, then if well stirred, and cooled 
 to 80° before putting it in pr.'ss hoops, the action of the heat and rennet are 
 so checked as to give the new agent (salt) control of opposing forces in the 
 process of curing. The cooler the curing-room is kept, the less salt is required 
 to preserve cheese from taint, and the less salt used the earlier the maturity 
 of cheese. The proper construction of the curing-room is essential to a 
 proper control of heat in process of curing. 
 
 DANGER OF HIGH HEAT. 
 
 " The danger of high heat is not past till cheese is ripened for market A 
 perfectly made cheese is often spoiled by too much and uneven heat in curing. 
 A steady, even temperature should be kept, not exceeding 70°, with free 
 ventilation at bottom and top of the room, so arranged that the outer air 
 may be let in at pleasure at the bottom or near the floor below the cheese 
 and pass out through draft tubes at the top of the room through the center 
 which should be made to be closed when a draft is not needed to carry off 
 surplus heat or dampness in the room, or for changing the air. 
 
 HEAT IN CURING-ROOMS. 
 
 " Curing-rooms built tight with six inches space for air between inner and 
 outer ceiling with tubes six inches square passing through to the open air at 
 the outer end, made to close at pleasure at the inside to reject too much air 
 placed once in ten feet on all sides of the room near the floor, with draft tubes 
 twelve inches square once in ten feet through the center of the top of the 
 room, will afford a sufficient circulation of air at all times in the largest sized 
 rooms; the air chamber at the side and over the top of the room protects it 
 from sudden effects of external heat. The upper floor or ceiling should be 
 covered with sawdust or fine shavings, to prevent concentration of heat from 
 above. No more windows should be used than are needed to give sufficient 
 light, as they are seldom if ever needed for air. With such ventilation and 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 447 
 
 construction of the curing-room, as described, I have found no difficulty in 
 keeping any desired temperature down to 70°. If a succession of extreme 
 heat is raising the temperature above a desired point, it may be checked by 
 closing tlie ventilatmg tubes when the air without is warmer than desired, 
 and placing ice in the room on a drainer over a tub or box to catch the water 
 as the ice dissolves." 
 
 DR. wight's views. 
 
 In a recent discussion before the National Dairymen's Club, Dr. Wight, 
 of the Whitesboro Factory, said : — " If the milk tends to acidity, less heat and 
 more rennet should be used; if the milk should be tainted the converse 
 would be the treatment, viz., more heat and less rennet. I have observed 
 that the slight difference of not more than two degrees in warming the curd 
 will at times make one or two cents per pound difference in the price of the 
 cheese when sold, all other conditions being apparently the same. I have also 
 noticed that when green cheese is exposed to too low a temperature in the 
 early stages of curing, it invariably injures the texture, flavor and general 
 quality of the product during all the future stages of curing. In fact, T firmly 
 believe that if the milk should constantly be kept at a proper temperature, 
 and the curing-rooms be kept at a temperature neither too low nor too high — 
 all of which is barely and simply a work of art entirely under our own control 
 — I firmly believe, I say, that these conditions being constantly and rigidly 
 observed, we may readily save all that depreciation in the quality and price 
 of cheese which now invariably takes place during the heat of summer ; 
 losing to the dairyman seldom less than three, and frequently five and six 
 cents jDer pound. With the temperature of our milk and our manufactories 
 kept at a sufficiently low degree during the months of June, July and August, 
 we may preserve the cheese made during these months for the fall trade, and 
 thus realize an equal, if not a higher price for them than we now do for our 
 best fall cheese. 
 
 warming curing-rooms by steam. 
 
 " I Avill close with a few suggestions about the best mode of presei'ving 
 the most equable and proper temperatures in our curing-houses. Thorough 
 ventilation being premised, I would Avarm the rooms by steam pipes and cool 
 them by the admission of cold air from an ice-house, keeping the temperature 
 as near 70° as may be, equable throughout the building, and a little moist 
 rather than too dry. By strict attention to these few things much improve- 
 ment may be made in the quality and profits of our products." 
 
 Mr. Alexander McAdam, the very successful manufacturer of the Smith 
 Creek Factory, said, "In making cheese now (very early in spring) we are 
 making from milk three messes of which are skimmed and one new. When 
 skimmed the milk is placed in a warm place where the temperature is adapted 
 for the cream rising. Set at eighty, and coagulated sufficient to cut in thirty 
 minutes, it commences to thicken in fifteen minutes. He used extra rennet 
 for skim-milk cheese. He heated it slowly to eighty-eight. Sometimes in 
 
448 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 cold weather the milk is very sweet and it may lie five or six hours in the 
 whey. He meant to keep the temjDerature about eiglity-eio-ht. 
 
 TEMPERATURE WHEN ONE MESS IS SKIMMED. 
 
 " When the weather becomes warmer he will use the milk with one mess 
 skimmed, and then the temperature would be at eighty-two and heat up to 
 ninety-two and keep to this temperature. This milk would require thirty-five 
 minutes to coagulate. He was accustomed to have coagulation occur sooner 
 than some factories, as some let it run an hour or even an hour and ten 
 minutes. By scalding as low as eighty-eight, the curd keeps soft and the 
 acid is developed before the curd becomes solid. He used more rennet, less 
 salt and less heat when making skim-milk cheese than without skimmino- the 
 milk. The salt is applied upon the slightest appearance of the acid. He used 
 it at the rate of one and one-half pounds of salt to the thousand pounds of 
 milk. The appearance of the cheese after coming from the press must be the 
 guide to the temperature and according to the appeai-ance of the cheese is 
 determined the place upon the shelves. The curd should be put to press as 
 soon as convenient after grinding, and before it gets too cool to face good. 
 
 MANAGEMENT WHEN FAILING TO PACE. 
 
 " If it failed to face, he used hot water and hot cloths imder the follower 
 and hot water upon the press board. If too much rennet was used the curd 
 would be rather slimy and it Avould not unite as well, but if the rennet was 
 sweet the taste Avould not be aflfected. He thought if too much rennet was 
 used some of the excess would be held at least mechanically in the curd and 
 would appear in the color. 
 
 TEMPERATURE FOR WHOLE MILK. 
 
 " He used with all new milk in spring manufacture a temperature of eighty- 
 two, and heat to ninety-four, and in curing he would not use over sixty-five 
 in the dry-house — such a handling would produce a fine-flavored cheese. The 
 action of heat facilitates the action of the rennet. He would use more heat 
 after applying the rennet. As a general thing he did not think two or three 
 degrees in temperature would make a great difference in the price of the cheese 
 when made. He thought time would modify the slight excess of temperature. 
 He would heat whole milk up to ninety-six in the summer time." 
 
 ADVANTAGES OF A CELLAR UNDER CHEESE FACTORIES. 
 
 Mr. McAdam spoke of a cheese factory which had a good cellar under 
 it. He said "In the summer time this cellar could be used with great advan- 
 tage as a curing-room. And in the spring and fall the cellar could be used 
 for a making-room, and the curing done above. 
 
 HOW IS THE RIPENING OP CHEESE AFFECTED BY THE MODE OP MANU- 
 FACTURE ? 
 
 " This subject is quite important, as it is often necessary to manufacture 
 cheese that will ripen very quickly. When the market is declining, to have 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 449 
 
 as many of them as possible fit for sale, and consequently bring a liiglier 
 price, is the great desideratum. On the contrary, when the cheese-market is 
 advancing it is often advisable to make cheese that will take a much longer 
 time in curing, so that in holding for higher prices there will be less danger 
 of deterioration in the quality of the cheese by their becoming off in flavor. 
 Now, in the ripening or curing of cheese, I regard the action of the rennet 
 as the element that does the whole business ; and, therefore, in making cheese 
 that are to cure quickly, we have only to place the rennet in the most favor- 
 able circumstances for promoting its growth all through the process of manu- 
 facture, and to cure slowly, the opposite. Now, what are the most favorable 
 circumstances for promoting the growth of the spores of the rennet ? 
 
 " First, is the presence of the greatest quantity of butter in the milk to 
 be manufactured into cheese. Second, a larger amount of rennet added to 
 such milk. Third, by using a lower temperature in cooking or scalding 
 the curd. Fourth, the absence or a minimum amount of acid in the curd, 
 when the salt is added ; and. Fifth, a less quantity of salt added to the 
 curd ; also by keeping the cheese in the curing-room at a higher temperature. 
 Cheese made from tainted milk will naturally cure more quickly than if the 
 milk was good. An exactly opposite process will check the growth of the 
 spores of the rennet in the milk, curd and cheese, and cause the cheese to 
 cure more slowly. Heat hastens the development of the acid more rapidly 
 than the development of the rennet spores, and though heat hastens both 
 developments, the acid is generated faster relatively. Cheese cured quickly 
 ought to go into immediate consumption, as if kept, especially in warm 
 weather, they deteriorate in quality very rapidly. And I think that the com- 
 plaints of the English shippers about the defects in the color and flavor of 
 American cheese, when held over winter, are mainly owing to the fact that 
 these cheese have been cured too quickly to hold long." 
 
 These views above, from some of our most successful cheese-makers, and 
 very recently expressed (1871), are worthy of attention. 
 
 SALTING THE CURDS. 
 
 The leading object of using salt in the curds is to arrest putrefactive fer- 
 mentation, and hold the cheese in a condition to make a suitable article of 
 food. Different nations, it is true, differ in their tastes. Some of the people 
 on the continent of Europe have so educated their taste as to prefer cheese that 
 is more or less tainted, but the English race, as a rule, demand a clean, well- 
 flavored article. As we are manufacturing mostly for English and American 
 markets, my remarks must refer particularly to the great bulk of goods made 
 to suit, what may be denominated as the English taste. The Swiss, the Lim- 
 berger, and other characters of cheese are now made to some extent in this 
 country, but the quantity is so small when compared with the great mass of 
 our product, that American dairymen do not generally understand what the 
 peculiar flavor is which is esteemed in the cheeses referred to. 
 .29 
 
450 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Salt is a very important agent in modifying the taste of cheese,, and on 
 the manner in which it is^used, will depend in a great measure the character 
 and reputation of the dairy in market. In the application of salt there can 
 be but little doubt, that fine, clean flavor can be best secured in the cheese by 
 salting when the curds are comparatively cool. Some manufacturers have 
 the impression that salt is more efficient, and is more evenly distributed when 
 the curds are quite warm. I believe it is a well-established rule among meat 
 packers, that meats are secured in the best condition when salt is applied after 
 the meat has cooled off. At any rate in cheese manufacture a fine, delicate 
 flavor is only obtained when salt is applied to the curds at a low temperature. 
 This rule is strictly observed in the celebrated dairies of England, whether it 
 be Cheshire or Cheddar. Among the best Cheshire dairies, the heat at no 
 time during the process of manufacture is allowed to run above 78* or 80", 
 and in applying salt, as a rule 1b° should be regarded as the maximum tem- 
 perature of the curds. 
 
 In addition to the liability of affecting injuriously the flavor of cheese, by 
 applying salt while the curds are too warm, the salt has another effect. Its 
 action is to harden the parts of the curd Avith which it comes in contact, sur- 
 rounding them with a tough pellicle or coat of caseine, and thus preventing 
 a free flow of whey. The whey should be thoroughly expelled before salting, 
 for in no other way can the quantity of salt be regulated with certainty. If 
 there is much whey in the curds at the time of salting, it will be no easy 
 matter to guess at the quantity of salt that will pass off in the whey, and 
 hence, when this kind of guess work is relied on by the manufacturers, the 
 cheese will not be of uniform character. When too small a quantity of salt 
 is used, the cheese ripens with great rapidity, and must be eaten when com- 
 paratively young, for it will soon get out of flavor. Oh the other hand, too 
 much salt delays the ripening process ; the cheese is long in coming to 
 maturity, and is likely to be hard and stiff. It Avill be seen, therefore, that 
 the quantity of salt to be used should be pretty accurately determined, 
 according to the character of cheese we design to make. If we want cheese 
 to ripen in thirty days from the tub or vat, and go into market early and be 
 consumed, the quantity of salt must be regulated for that object; while 
 cheese of long-keeping qualities, maturing slowly, and requiring a higher per 
 centage of salt, must needs have the quantity also regulated with precision. 
 When the curds are drained, and subjected to pressure for a short time in 
 the hoop, and then broken up by passing through a curd mill, and then 
 salted as in the Cheddar process, the proportion of salt can be regulated 
 with great nicety. But in all cases, before salting, it is well to have the 
 curds as dry as they can be conveniently made. 
 
 ^ Another office of salt is to check the acidity of the curds. When the 
 acid has been fully developed, and the process carried far enough, the appli- 
 cation checks its further progress, and thus, in the manipulation, is made to 
 serve a very important purpose in the hands of a skillful manufacturer. I can 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 451 
 
 only announce some of the principles to be observed in the use of salt for 
 clieese-malcing. What I particularly wish to impress is, that it cannot be 
 employed at random, and that the making of fine cheese depends, in a good 
 degree, upon the time, manner and quantity in which the manufacturer 
 employs this agent for his work. The quantity of salt used by manufjxcturers 
 varies according to the character of cheese to be made at different seasons of 
 the year, from two and one-fourth to three pounds of salt to one hundred 
 pounds of green cheese. In spring, when it is desired to have the cheese 
 ripen quickly, as low a proportion as two to two and one-fourth pounds are 
 used. In hot weather, two and a-half to two and seven-tenths pounds, for 
 one hundred pounds green cheese are employed by the best manufacturers, 
 aud sometimes three pounds are used, and these proportions refer to curds 
 that are not pressed before salting, and consequently are not thoroughly 
 drained of whey. The rule among the best Cheddar dairymen of England is 
 one pound of salt for fifty-six pounds of curd ; the salt applied after the curds 
 have been pressed for ten minutes in the hoop, and then ground in a curd 
 mill, the temperature of the curds being from 60° to 65°. The English 
 Cheddars are longer in coming to maturity than the usual style of American 
 manufacture. It will be seen, also, that in the English process, the curds 
 are made dryer at the time of salting, than generally obtains in American 
 manufacture, and that in consequence a less amount of salt is required, or is 
 used, than at the American factories. 
 
 THE KIND OF SALT TO BE USED. 
 
 Much has been said and written about salt for dairy purposes ; the subject 
 is by no means exhausted ; it at least demands discussion and agitation, so 
 long as dairy products continue to be injured and spoiled by the use of an 
 impure article. Many people imagine that all salt in the market is pure ; that 
 if its appearance to the eye is clean, it contains no ingredients deleterious to 
 butter and cheese, and that all the difference between a common article and 
 the higher grades consists in pulverizing and putting up in neater packages. 
 One can meet scores of men who will insist there is no other difference than 
 that we have named, and that they do not propose to throw away money on 
 a high-priced article. They prefer to prepare their own salt, crushing the 
 lumps, if necessary, and chuckling over the superior sagacity they have to 
 those who are throwing away their money on a high-priced article. Some- 
 how it generally turns out that these very wise and saving persons have a 
 low grade product of butter and cheese, and in consequence make sales con- 
 siderably below those obtained for a first-class article. 
 
 I have sustained losses, both in butter and cheese, on account of using 
 poor salt, and I have no confidence in the common barrel salt constantly to 
 be met with in the market. Some of it may be good, and most of it may 
 possibly do for the ordinary purposes for which it was intended, but the risk 
 never should be taken of using it in butter and cheese. The dealers and 
 
452 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 experts in butter have for years cautioned the butter-makers to use nothino- 
 but the best Ashton or LiverjDool salt. Chlorides of calcium and magnesium 
 are the substances in salt which affect the taste and injure the quality of 
 butter, however carefully otherwise it may be made. 
 
 Solar salt, produced by evaporating the brines, and which is largely used 
 by packers, though it may not contain any deleterious substance that would 
 affect meats, is very likely to contain a sufficient per centage of the chlorides 
 to injure the taste of butter. To the cultivated taste of an experienced 
 butter buyer, the least trace of the chlorides existing in the salt used betrays 
 its presence. The Ashton is a very good salt, but is expensive. All the salt 
 sold under the name or brand of Ashton is not genuine. Cheese and butter- 
 makers should purchase their salt only of reliable dealers— men Avho know 
 where they obtain their goods, and can vouch for their quality. 
 
 Somewhat recently the Onondaga Salt Works, at Syracuse, N. Y., have 
 been manufacturing a superior dairy salt. Prof Goessman, a distinguished 
 chemist, was employed for some years at the Works, to superintend the 
 manufacture of salt, with a view of freeing it from deleterious substances, 
 and it is by his process that the brand known as " factory filled " or dairy 
 salt is now manufactured. From numerous chemical analyses, it exhibits 
 greater purity than the Ashton and other foreign brands, and its use among 
 our best dairymen, for some years, has proved its perfect adaptation to 
 the dairy. 
 
 At the New York State Fair, in 1867, there was a large exhibition of 
 butter from different parts of the State, and among the packages were a num- 
 ber of samples, half of which had been salted with Onondaga and half with 
 Ashton salt. The Committee, composed of experts, pronounced, in twenty- 
 five cases, the butter cured with factory filled salt, made at the New York 
 Mills, Syracuse, to be the best, as compared with its alternate package, cured 
 in the same dairy with Ashton. Prof S. W. Johnson of the Sheffield Scien- 
 tific School, Yale College, has stated that the purest salt made in this or any 
 other country that he is acquainted with, came from Syracuse, where the 
 ingenious processes of Dr. Goessman were then employed, and that such 
 factory filled salt must take rank second to none, as regards purity and free- 
 dom from any deleterious ingredients, especially the chlorides of calcium and 
 magnesium. Gov. Alvoed of Syracuse stated, at a meeting of the Amer- 
 ican Dairymen's Association, that the Onondaga Salt Company were pre- 
 pared to guarantee their factory filled salt, and to pay for every pound of 
 butter or cheese that was injured by the use of such salt ; but the salt must 
 come from the accredited agents of the Company, as certain dealers had been 
 known to put up other salt in packages, using the factory filled brand. 
 
 I have referred to these facts, because I know the genuine article to be 
 good ; and as it is furnished much cheaper than the foreign or imported salt, 
 it is of interest for dairymen to know it. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 453 
 
 to distinguish good salt. 
 A satisfactory evidence of pure salt is its dryness, as the chlorides cause 
 salt to absorb and retain moisture. In order that dairymen may be enabled 
 to judge somewhat of the character of good dairy salt, from its aj)pearance 
 in addition to its dryness, I give the following from Prof. Chaeles H. 
 Porter : — " A chalky or very fine grained or pulverulent salt is not the best 
 for dairy purposes, and would at once be rejected, I believe, by experience 
 dairymen. A good dairy salt, ought, I imagine, besides being of proper 
 chemical composition, to be of moderately fine grain, crystalline and trans- 
 parent, and, when seen in a mass, of a pure white color ; it ought to be 
 free from odor, and possess that sharp, pungent taste characteristic of 
 pure salt." 
 
 STIRRING THE MILK DURING THE NIGHT. 
 
 One of the mechanical devices brought to the notice of cheese-manu- 
 facturers, during the past few years, is the milk agitator. They commenced 
 to be used in 1867, but since that time their use has become quite general, 
 and our best factories in New York consider them of great utility. They are 
 without doubt one of the useful improvehients for cheese factories in this age 
 of fertile invention. There are two or three kinds, but all work nearly upon 
 the same principle, or accomplish the same object, that is, stirring the milk 
 in the vats during the night, and are operated by the waste water from the 
 vats. Before these appliances came in use, it was necessary for cheese- 
 makers to stir the night's milk in the vats until it Avas reduced to a temper- 
 ature of 60". In hot weather the constant flow of water under the milk, or 
 between the vats, Avas not sufficient to preserve it in good order, and this 
 stirring had to be continued, from time to time, until a late hour of the night. 
 It is evident if machinery can be introduced for this purpose, a great saving 
 of labor is secured. 
 
 There is another object gained by stirring the milk at intervals during 
 the night : the cream is prevented from rising, which is of great importance 
 where butter is not made at the factory, as it is very difficult to get the 
 cream which has once risen back again into the milk for cheese-making with- 
 out loss ; and again, the particles of milk being moved so as to be exposed 
 to the atmosphere, it keeps in better order. The apparatus is quite simple, 
 and consists merely of a wooden float, attached to an arm, which is carried 
 back and forward, at intervals, across the vat, and operated by a water 
 wheel or water box, which is kept moving by the M'aste water from the vats. 
 Doubtless much benefit is often gained by this movement of the milk, 
 especially when not in perfect condition, as the particles are being constantly 
 exposed to the atmosphere, and improved by allowing bad odors to pass off: 
 
 During the summer of 1867 one of the best cheese manufacturers of 
 Oneida wrote to me as follows : — " Believing, as I do, that the agitator 
 deserves more extensive notice, and more general introduction into cheese 
 
454 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 factories than it has yet received, I desire to add my testimony respect- 
 ing its merits and benefits. Some weeks since I consented to have the 
 agitator introduced into the four vats of my factory, on trial ; I am so far 
 pleased with it, that I have come to the conclusion that it is a necessary 
 appurtenance to my factory. It is not claimed for it, I believe, that a larger 
 yield of cheese can be obtained by its use, though I am of opinion that a 
 slight increase in quantity and quality will result, when the agitator is 
 judiciously used; this will especially be the case in the cold part of the 
 season : it certainly is a perfect preventive of the raising of any cream, and 
 that this is an important advantage no one will deny, I find, also, that the 
 milk in the vats, in the morning, has an incomparably sweeter, cleaner, 
 fresher taste and smell than ever before ; and this, notwithstanding the fact 
 that my spring aifords an abundance of excellent water, and the temperature 
 of the milk in the morning, before the agitator was put in, had always been 
 
 Austin's Agitator, showino Water Wheel and manner op appltinq Eakes to the Vats. 
 from 54° to 58°. The necessity of stirring milk until ten, eleven and even 
 twelve o'clock at night, as is the case in very many factories, is entirely 
 obviated. If there were no other advantage arising, resulting from its use, 
 this alone should be sufficient argument in its favor. Factory hands work 
 hard, and if the night's labor can be dispensed with, it should be done. Of 
 course, further experience and fuller acquaintance with its operations and 
 effects may modify and radically change my views in relation to it. After 
 the testimony of such experienced and successful cheese-makers as Col. 
 Miller and others, who used it last year, I hardly look for such a result. 
 At present I heartily commend its use, only suggesting that, in my judg- 
 ment, the motion of the frame and rakes should be slow— not over two or 
 three strokes per minute." The experience of the past three years has con- 
 firmed these views as to the utility of this appliance. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. >^ 455 
 
 use op ice in" cooling and preserving milk, 
 The use of ice in cooling and preserving milk for cheese manufacture is 
 practiced to a large extent. It is applied in various ways ; sometimes by 
 adding it in messes to the milk in the vats, or by placing it in large tin cool- 
 ers, which are then immersed in the milk, and in various other ways, to suit 
 the convenience of those who have the care of the dairy. Recently coolers 
 have been invented, to be used for cooling milk with ice at the farm ; but it 
 may be well to caution those who employ ice for this purjDose, that it should 
 not be used in direct contact with the milk, or in any way in which the milk 
 may come in contact with an ice-cold surface. . 
 
 An impression prevails with many that no injury can result to milk from 
 the use of ice, no matter in what way it may be employed. Ice, if judiciously 
 used in connection with the dairy, is convenient and useful in hot weather, 
 and especially so when the supply of water is limited, or its temperature is so 
 high that the milk cannot be cooled down properly by it alone. But because 
 the direct application of an ice cold surface does not do the milk any apparent 
 injury for the moment, it must not be inferred that it has no remote influence 
 upon the product of butter and cheese which may be manufactured out of 
 such milk. All animal bodies, though they may be kept fresh and sweet for 
 a long time when laid upon ice in an ice box, yet when exposed to the air and 
 warmth rapidly decompose and become stale. When milk has been cooled 
 by coming in contact with ice and then manufactured into cheese, the injury 
 does not immediately show itself; but it has been observed that the cheese 
 ripens rapidly, decays early, and will not keep in flavor like that which is 
 made of milk, none of the particles of which have come in contact with a sur- 
 face of lower temperature than 50®. 
 
 The butter makers of Orange county,. N. Y., who have experimented 
 laro-ely with milk, are extremely cautious in the use of ice in connection with 
 butter manufacture. It is sometimes necessary to use it during hot weather 
 while churning, by breaking it up fine and applying it to the cream in the 
 churn ; but when ice has been employed in this way, the butter will not 
 keep ; though for present use the butter may be regarded as of prime quality. 
 In 1868, during the month of July, we had extremely warm weather, and ice 
 was used in the New York factories quite freely — often injudiciously. From 
 an account of the cheese made that year, given by the English shjpper, Mr. 
 Webb, it appears there was not a single factory sending cheese abroad that 
 had it arrive and retain a good, clean flavor. He says : — " The English dealer 
 and the English consumer alike began to get a surfeit of that strong flavored, 
 loosely made, bad-keeping quality, which was the universal characteristic of 
 the July make of cheese. This inferior quality," he remarks, "was doubtless 
 largely owing to the intensely hot weather then prevailing. But whatever 
 the cause, your very serious attention should be directed to the discovery of 
 a remedy — for not a single dairy, .is far as my personal experience and pretty 
 full inquiries extended, not one single dairy stood the test of that most trying 
 
456 ^ Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 month. Even those dairies that for a series of years have been always and 
 uniformly excellent, did not hold their own last July ; but proved in the 
 matter of flavor and keeping qualities to be no better than the great majority 
 of your State factories." 
 
 Now how far the injudicious use of ice may have added to the trouble I 
 am unable to say; but I have no doubt that some share at least may be justly 
 laid to that source. I have personal knowledge of some factories where large 
 quantities of ice are used to cool the milk by applying it directly to the milk 
 in the vats, and the milk is apparently in good order, and yet great complaint 
 is made of the cheese manufactured as soon "off flavor," while it must be 
 observed that the best flavored goods are not made at those factories which 
 use the ice in this way ; but where there is an abundance of pure, cold 
 water — cold water and an agitator which stirs the milk during the nio-ht, 
 worked by the waste water from the vats, give practically the best results. 
 As this question of ice is somewhat new to the dairy public, and has not been 
 very closely investigated by cheese manufacturers, it will be sufficient to call 
 attention to the matter, with the suggestion to avoid as far as possible the 
 use of ice, or an ice cold surface in direct contact with the milk. 
 
 DRAWING OFF THE CURDS. 
 
 Where large quantities of milk are delivered at one point to be manufac- 
 tured into cheese, it is important to have every convenience, so that it may 
 be handled easily and expeditiously. Without convenient appliances the 
 cheese factory system would be a failure. It would be very difficult, and 
 perhaps impossible, to make the fine character of cheese now demanded in 
 the leading markets of the Avorld by massing the milk in large quantities, and 
 using old appliances in operation before the factory system was inaugurated. 
 It is to the perfection of cheese factory machinery and the mechanical devices 
 for manipulating milk in proper time that the manufacturer, in a great measure, 
 owes his success. It is true, intelligence and skill, with habits of close obser- 
 vation, are necessary in cheese manufacture, and no amount of mechanical 
 contrivance can be substituted for them. But as many of the operations in 
 cheese making admit of no delay, but require immediate and rapid action, 
 the appliances must be suited to the work, or the most skillful operator will 
 be liable to fail in securing the best results. What seems to be a most for- 
 tunate thing for American cheese dairying is, that whenever any essential 
 point or principle is discovered in manufacture, the inventors imme- 
 diately step in with devices or contrivances for easily securing the object 
 desired. I could mention several of these which are unknown among the best 
 Cheddar cheese makers of England, and which doubtless would not yet have 
 been invented here had we remained under the old system of farm dairies. 
 
 THE SHUTE. 
 
 Among the somewhat recent improvements in cheese factory arrangements 
 IS the Shute. This invention originated in Herkimer county, and is now 
 
Pracjical Dairy Husbandry. 457 
 
 being adopted by all the new or improved rnodled factories. The shute is 
 now introduced among those factories in New York which produce cheese 
 that sells for extreme or " top prices." I do not presume to say that the 
 shute is the only or chief cause of the high reputation which these factories 
 enjoy, and yet I have no doubt it has contributed somewhat in efiecting this 
 reputation. Indeed, in some instances at least, tlie manufacturers are from 
 factories where the shute is not employed, and only in taking charge of the 
 shute factories have their reputations reached the enviable position they now 
 enjoy. The shute is an arrangement in the vats, whereby all the curds in the 
 vats may be thrown upon the sink in a moment. In this arrano-ement the 
 floor of the manufacturing room at one end of the vats is sunk some four feet 
 below the part upon which the vats stand. Here is placed the sink upon 
 rails, and in some instances immediately back of it the presses. The ends of 
 the vats come out nearly to the fall in the floor, and in the end of each vat 
 there is a large circular opening secured with an iron door, water-tight, which 
 is opened for the discharge of the curds. When a vat is to be emptied the 
 sink is rolled along opposite the vat, the vat canted down, the tin conductor 
 placed under the orifice or point of discharge in the vat, and the iron door 
 removed. In this manner the vat is rapidly emptied of its contents, and the 
 curds at once spread out upon the sink to cool. Old clieese makers will 
 readily understand the advantage of this arrangement. When the acid is 
 properly developed it should be immediately checked. With large masses 
 of curd, and under the old arrangement, it was very difficult to time opera- 
 tions to meet this condition. To dip the curd out with pails often required 
 so much time that, do the best you could, the acid would often be carried too 
 far before the work was accomplished. As the temperature of the atmosphere 
 varies from day to day, and the condition of the milk is also difierent, it was 
 exceedingly difficult to calculate the changes that would occur in a few 
 minutes. It will be seen, then, how great the advantage is when the manu- 
 facturer can empty his vat at once. Sometimes acidity goes on gradually for 
 a time, and then all at once is developed much more rapidly than was antici- 
 pated. With the shute you are master of the situation ; you have the whole 
 matter under control ; you manipulate your forces to produce an exact result ; 
 you march to the very threshold of danger, but do not step over the line ; 
 you have control of the shute, and at the word of command you feel that you 
 can count upon accomplishing the object desired. The shute is, without 
 doubt, of considerable assistance in securing the make of nice, marketable 
 goods, and its adoption can be recommended on- this account, in addition to 
 the labor it saves over the old plan of dipping. 
 
 PROCESS FOK MAKING EXTRA PINE CHEESE. 
 
 We have now discussed at length some of the leading points in cheese 
 manufacture, and I here give some of the most recent views and practice of 
 manufacturers who have been successful in making a high-priced cheese, and 
 
458 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 ^ 
 
 in this connection the following paper of Mr. A. McAdam, read at the Dairy- 
 men's Convention of 1871, so fully explains in regular order and in detail the 
 method of cheese making at the Smith Creek factory, that it will be useful. 
 I may remark in passing that the cheese made at the Smith Creek factoiy in 
 1869 and 1870 was regarded by dealers and shippers as a fancy article, and 
 it sold at the Little Falls, N. Y., market uniformly at the highest price paid 
 for best factories, Mr. McAdam says : — " I will give a description of the 
 process as I practice it, and state some of the reasons why I practice it. As 
 you ai'e probably all aware, the milk that is delivered at cheese factories is 
 not always in the same state, sometimes being tainted or partially putrid, 
 sometimes sour, or nearly so, and sometimes it is, what it always ought to be, 
 perfect. I propose to describe the process, first, when the milk is right and 
 good; second, when it is partially sour, and third, when tainted. The 
 evening's milk, when delivered at the factory, ought to be cooled so as to 
 reach a temperature of 58° to 62° in the morning. When the morning's 
 milk is added, it is heated to 80", then enough rennet is added to coagulate 
 the mass in as nearly forty minutes' time as possible. When the curd has 
 attained sufficient consistency, it is cut four times — twice with the horizontal 
 curd knife, and twice with the perpendicular one, with a short interval 
 between each cutting. The curd is then gently manipulated and heated to 
 96°, care being taken to prevent the curd from packing on the bottom of the 
 vat ; the time required for heating being from an hour to an hour and a-half. 
 The stirring is continued for ten or fifteen minutes after this heat has been 
 attained, and the curd is then allowed to pack on the bottom of the vat, where 
 it lies undisturbed until the separation of the whey from the curd becomes 
 necessary. Up to this stage the process is almost identical with that prac- 
 ticed in manufacturing cheese in the usual manner. 
 
 " In the manufacture of American cheese (I will so designate the method 
 usually practiced, to distinguish it from the process, which I will term Ched- 
 dar)^ it is of the utmost importance to determine the precise time at which to 
 separate the whey from the curd, and it is also an operation requiring the 
 greatest amount of skill and experience, as well as the exercise of the nicest 
 sense of taste and smell. But in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese it is not 
 of the same vital importance, as the Avhey can be separated from the curd 
 from half an hour to an hour and a-half before acidity is developed so as to 
 be perceptible ; and, on the other hand, the whey can be left on the curd till 
 the acid is distinctly developed, without materially affecting the quality of the 
 product. As the acid or souring generally makes its appearance about noon, 
 in summer, the Cheddar system gives factory hands more time lor dinner, 
 and consequently they can masticate their food, instead of having to bolt it, 
 as has to be done in many cases. When the whey is drawn off, and the vat 
 tipped down on one end, the curd is then heaped on each side of the vat, 
 leaving a space in the middle to allow the remainder of the whey to pass off. 
 I may here state that when the " shute," or flood gate, is not used, there 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 459 
 
 ought to be, in the Cheddar system, a faucet in the vat, to allow the whey to 
 pass off as it drains from the curd. After the curd has laid in a heap on the 
 bottom of the vat for jBfteen or twenty minutes, and the original particles of 
 curd have become amalgamated into a solid mass, it is then cut into con- 
 venient pieces with a knife, and turned over, and so left until the curd has 
 become sour enough for grinding and salting, which is determined by the 
 taste of the whey that drains from the curd. This whey should now have a 
 sharp, sour milk taste, which can be understood by any intelligent cheese 
 maker, after a few days' experience. The curd is then torn by hand into 
 strips of two or three pounds weight, and allowed to cool for a short time, in 
 order to allow the butter in it to become solid enough so as not to escape 
 during the operation of grinding. The curd is then ground into pieces, 
 averaging about the size of hickory nuts. Five hundred pounds of curd can 
 be ground by hand, with Mc Adam's curd mill, in from five to fifteen minutes, 
 according to the toughness of the curd and muscle of the operator. The salt 
 is then immediately added and mixed thoroughly, at the rate of from one and 
 a-half to two and a quarter pounds per one thousand pounds of milk, accord- 
 ing to circumstances. The curd is then ready to be put into the hoops for 
 pressing. 
 
 " 2d. Mode of procedure when the milk we have to handle is (from what- 
 ever cause) sour, or partially so ; and such cases are liable to happen in any 
 factory, however well regulated. You are all aware that when milk is par- 
 tially sour, it will coagulate in the same time as sweet milk with the addition 
 of considerably less rennet. But to such milk I usually add more rennet, 
 instead of less, so as to have the coagulation occur very quickly. As soon as 
 the rennet has completed its ofiice, I commence cutting and working the curd 
 much more rapidly than usual. In such cases I use very little heat in scald- 
 ing — seldom heating over 86° or 90°, according to the severity of the case. 
 Indeed, in some instances, when the milk is very sour, I do not think that it 
 is advisable to heat the curd at all after coagulation. I reason in this way : 
 just as good cheese can be made without scalding at all, as with it; the 
 reason that we scald the curd (if heating to a temperature of 98° can be called 
 scalding), is to develop the acid sooner, and if, when the curd is inclined to 
 develop acid sooner than usual, we heat it to a temperature of 96° to 98°, 
 we hasten the action of the acid, which is the very thing we are trying to 
 avoid. In other words, when the acid in the curd is developing too fast of 
 its own accord, we develop it still faster by means of heat, and thus aggra- 
 vate the evil. After this curd is cut up, the whey must be removed from it 
 as fast as it makes its appearance, and as soon as practicable the vat must be 
 tipped down and the curd thrown to the upper end of the vat. The curd at 
 this stage is very sloppy, as it contains considerable whey. One person 
 should now cut it into small pieces with a knife, and another be employed in 
 turning the pieces over and piling them up in heaps, so as to liberate the 
 whey, which passes off in a continuous stream. When the curd has assumed 
 
460 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 a proper consistency it must be ground and salted ; the quantity of salt used 
 must be according to the amount of whey contained in the curd, which-is 
 generally, in such cases, considerably more than usual. In extreme cases, the 
 whole process, from the adding of the rennet to the mixing in of the salt, can 
 be performed in less than an hour. 
 
 " To explain why more rennet is needed when the milk is partially sour, 
 I will refer to the address delivered by Professor Caldwell last year, before 
 this Convention, and also to the able and highly useful paper read by L. B. 
 Arnold, Esq., on 'Rennet, its Nature and Use,' before the same Conven- 
 tion. These gentlemen demonstrated to us very clearly that the acting 
 principle of rennet consists of minute globules, or spores, which feed upon 
 nitrogenous substances, and when placed in such, at a favorable temperature, 
 multiply very rapidly. Now a quantity of rennet, containing a vast number 
 of these spores, placed in a vat of milk which is highly nitrogenous, at a tem- 
 perature of 80°, which is favorable to their growth, will multiply in a short 
 time to such an extent as to cause its coagulation. And their action by no 
 means stops here. They have still a very important mission to perform, viz., 
 that of curing or ripening the cheese. And if the presence of these spores 
 in the cheese, cures or rijjens it, an excess of them will ripen the cheese more 
 quickly, and vice versa. Now we all know that a sour cheese, or a cheese 
 which contains an excess of sour milk spores (Arthrococci), takes a much 
 longer time to ripen than a sweet cheese, and vice versa. Therefore, to have 
 a cheese cured in a given time, the spores of the Micrococci and of the Arthro- 
 cocci, must be contained in it in relative quantities. So, when we have a vat 
 of sour milk to handle, where the Arthrococci are in abundance, we must add 
 more rennet to counterbalance their action on the nitrogenous ingredients of 
 the milk, and thereby cause the cheese to ripen much quicker than if less 
 rennet had been added. I have found by experiment, during the past sum- 
 mer, that cheese made from sour milk in the above manner will cure as fast 
 as other cheese, but they will require more annatto to make them of the same 
 color, these sour milk spores appearing to have a destructive effect upon 
 annatto. I have likewise noticed that such cheese will have more tendency 
 to mold, but the flavor will not be objectionable. 
 
 "3. When the milk is tainted, or has an excess of putrefactive spores. 
 This tainted milk occurs, in some localities, in hot weather, no matter what 
 care is taken in cleaning the ixtensils with which it comes, in contact, and I 
 think that the milk is damaged in most cases before it is drawn from the cow. 
 But of course it can be greatly aggravated by being brought into contact 
 with unclean milk pails, strainers, cans, &c., which have not been properly 
 cleansed, and therefore contain numbers of those putrefactive spores clinging 
 to their seams and crevices, and which spring into new life and activity on 
 being brought into contact with the warm milk. During the past season, 
 from the middle of June to the middle of September, in a factory of over nine 
 hundred cows, I did not have a vat of milk which was not tainted, most of it 
 
Fractical JJairy Husbandry. 461 
 
 very badly, and over one-third of it so much that the curd floated. The 
 cheese made from this milk sold for the highest price iu the Little Falls mar- 
 ket. In handling such milk I prefer to have the temperature of the evening's 
 mess about 68° or 70° in the morning before the morning's milk is added, for 
 two reasons. First, it has been shown that the putrefactive spores are in 
 great abundance in such tainted milk ; by leaving the evening's milk through 
 the night at a higher temperature, we promote the growth of the Arthro- 
 cocci, or sour milk spores, and these check the growth of the Micrococci, and 
 counterbalance their action to a certain degree. Second, when the milk is left 
 through the night at a higher temperature, a great number of the putrefac- 
 tive spores pass off in the form of gas, esi^ecially where the milk agitator is 
 used. This we know by the foul odor it emits when warm, but when the 
 milk is cooled to a low tem];)erature, this gas is not so volatile, and does not 
 escape so readily, as we can perceive by its emitting little or no smell. But 
 the cooling of the milk does not kill the Micrococci ; it only partially pre- 
 vents their escape, and though at the same time cooling the milk, also retards 
 their growth as well as their escape ; it also retards the growth of the sour 
 milk spores, and these are much more efficient agents for the prevention of 
 putrefaction than cooling is. Therefore, I maintain that the less tainted or 
 putrid milk is cooled, so as not to be absolutely sour in the morning, the 
 better the product obtained will be, if the milk be properly handled. I know 
 that some cheese-makers prefer cooling such milk to as low a temperature as 
 possible, and add sour whey with the rennet in the morning, and have very 
 good success, but I prefer the former method, as by it the foi'mation of the 
 putrefactive spores is checked at a much earlier stage of the proceedings. 
 With this difference of cooling the milk, my process is the same with tainted 
 milk as with good milk, until the separation of the whey from the curd. 
 When tainted we allow the whey to remain on the curd imtil acid is slightly 
 perceptible, whether the curd floats or not. The whey is then drawn off and 
 the curd handled as before. If the curd is badly tainted, while lying in a 
 mass at the bottom of the vat, it will swell up to twice its original size, like 
 dough under the action of the yeast, and when broken emits a very offensive 
 odor. The exact degree of acidity to be allowed to develop at this point is 
 the most important, as well as the most difficult thing to determine in the 
 whole management of floating curds, as the odor and taste of both the curd 
 and the whey that drains from it very much resemble acid, and are in a great 
 many instances mistaken for it. The acid ought to be developed just enough 
 to kill the taint, and no more, and the result, notwithstanding the assertions 
 of some to the contrary, will be a fine cheese. After the requisite amount 
 of acid has been determined upon, and the curd ground and salted (using the 
 same amount of salt as when not tainted), the curd must be cooled and ven- 
 tilated as much as possible before being put to press. 
 
 " I do not pretend to say that cheese can be made from tainted milk and 
 floating curds, possessing quite as much of the fine, nutty aroma as f]-om 
 
4G2 PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY. 
 
 curds properly handled which are not tainted at all. But I do assert that I 
 have seen cheese made from floating curds, in several factories during the past 
 summer, that were perfectly close, rich and meaty, having no objectionable 
 flavor, and which not one expert in ten would object to. 
 
 " One other fact I wish to mention : It requires more milk when tainted, 
 to make a pound of cheese, than when it is not. One reason for this is, that 
 more acid must be present in such cases, and, of course, the more acid the 
 less cheese. In the Smith Creek Factory, last summer, it took two pounds 
 more milk to make a pound of cheese in July than it did in April. 
 
 " I have endeavored to tell you how I practice grinding curds. I will now 
 try to tell you why I practice it. In the first place, I think that it requires 
 less milk to make a pound of cheese ; in the second place, it does not tax the 
 judgment of the cheese-maker so much, or require so much skill and atten- 
 tion ; and, in the third place, I think that cheese made by the Cheddar process 
 will be closer, and at tlie same time appear more rich and buttery, and will 
 cure faster. It takes less milk to make a pound of cheese because the whey 
 is drawn from the curd before the acid is perceptible, while in the American 
 system, the whey has to be left on the curd from ten to sixty minutes after 
 acid is detected, in order to insure a good, solid cheese, and you all know that 
 sour whey will eat or digest grease from any substance containing it, with which 
 it comes in contact. The longer the curd is exposed to this acidity in the whey 
 the slimier the whey becomes, on account of the grease it has taken from 
 the curd, and, in fact, some cheese-makers determine when the curd is ready 
 to dip into the sink by the sliminess or sudsing of the whey. The quantity 
 of butter which passes ofi" unseen in the American system is certainly more 
 than is contained in the small quantity of wJiite whey which comes from the 
 cheese when pressing in the Cheddar system. 
 
 " During the past season, notwithstanding the general complaint that the 
 milk did not yield well, and the fact that over half of the cheese made at 
 Smith Creek Factory was from tainted milk, we used only 9 9-lOths pounds 
 of milk for one pound of cured cheese. And the reason why the Cheddar . 
 cheese will appear more rich and buttery, with the same solidity, is that when 
 the whey is drawn from the curd before the acid is detected, the action of 
 the sour milk spores is retarded, and the rennet, at work in the mass of warm 
 curd, is allowed full play. And, as the rennet cures the cheese, it will there- 
 fore cure sooner, and, curing sooner, will be richer and more buttery at the 
 same age." 
 
 HERKIMER COUNTY " FANCY FACTORY CHEESE." 
 
 As the manner of making a high-priced cheese is always of interest to 
 manufacturers, I give some of the leading features at a few fancy factories 
 where " gilt-edged" cheese is made. The processes are those adopted in 1870. 
 At the North Fairfield Factory, the temperature of milk in the morning is 
 56°. The night's milk is cooled by passing a stream of water between the* 
 vats and underneath the milk vat. Rennet is added for coagulating when the 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 463 
 
 milk has been raised to a temperature of 84°. After coagulation is perfected 
 the curds are cut first with the horizontal curd-knife, which leaves the mass 
 in thin sheets. Then follow with the perpendicular knife, cutting lengthwise 
 of the vat. Let the curds now stand ten minutes, or until the whey forms; 
 when the curds are cut with the perpendicular knife across the vat. 
 
 The breaking having been perfected, heat is begun to be gradually applied 
 and is continued until the mass reaches a temperature of 98°, the time occu- 
 pied being one and a-half hours or thereabouts. It is regarded of great 
 importance to heat slowly, and care is taken that tlie increase in temperature 
 in all parts of the heating process is regular and gradual. Sour whey is not 
 usually employed, as it is preferred that the acid be developed in heating. 
 The curds are taken out of the vat into, the sink at 90° — the acid having been 
 developed — and they are left exposed in the sink to cool. If acid has by 
 chance been carried too far in the vat, cold water is conducted between the 
 vats, under the curds .to cool them rapidly. It is preferred, however, to cool 
 the curds by exposing them to the air, as they are spread out in the sink. 
 
 When the curds have been cooled down to a temperature of from 75° to 
 80°, and also ai"e thoroughly drained of whey; they are salted in summer at 
 the rate of 2 9-lOths pounds of salt to one hundred pounds of green cheese, 
 and for September about a tenth of a pound less salt. If the milk in hot 
 weather is not all right, or if tainted, particular attention is given to have 
 the curds exjDosed a long time to the atmosphere. The temperature of the 
 curing-room is kept at 70°, or as near that point as possible. 
 
 In May the average quantity of milk for a pound of cured cheese was 
 9 37-lOOths pounds; in June, 9 3-lOths pounds, and in July 9 7-1 Oths pounds. 
 The cheese on hand at the time of my visit, were meaty, solid and of unifoi'm 
 fine flavor. The factory is convenient in its arrangements, but the building 
 is very plain and cheap in appearance. 
 
 The factory of the Norway Association receives the milk from four hun- 
 dred cows, and careful attention is given among patrons to deliver clean, 
 sweet milk. An agitator is kept moving in the night's milk, and the temper- 
 ature of the water is reduced with ice, so that the night's milk will stand in 
 the morning at a temperature of 60°. Mr. James, the manufacturer, sets the 
 milk for coagulation at 84°, and during the pi'oeess of scalding 98° is the 
 highest temperature employed. The best factory filled salt is used in spring 
 at the rate of two and a-half pounds to one hundred of curd ; in summer the 
 salt is three pounds, and in fall two and seven-tenths pounds. 
 
 As at other factories where high-priced cheese is made, the heating process 
 is very slow and gradual, requiring from one and a-quarter to one and a-half 
 hours. Great attention is paid to the development of the acid, and Mr. 
 James attributes his success to the faculty of distinguishing the proper con- 
 dition of the curds in this respect, and to their exposure to the atmosphere in 
 the sink until properly matured. Of course these peculiar conditions of the 
 curds cannot be described in words, but must be learned by experience. 
 
464 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Mr. James says he likes to develop the acid " sharp " through Juue, July and 
 August, but in fall not so much. As soon as it can be detected in the vats 
 the whey is immediately withdrawn, and as I have before remarked the 
 appliance of the shute is here of service in taking immediate advantao-e for 
 regulating this condition of the curds. 
 
 The cheese at this factory are pressed in fourteen and a-half inch hoops, 
 weigh about sixty pounds each. Tliey are slightly colored. At the time of 
 my visit fifteen cheeses were being made daily. The highest receipts of milk 
 during the season were ten thousand j^ounds, which made eighteen and a-half 
 cheeses daily. 
 
 THE " COARSE CURBS " PROCESS 
 
 is followed at the Cold Creek Factory, and whatever diifej-ence of opinion 
 there may be as to the merits of this process, it is just to say that the cheese 
 shows it to be a success. I saw the Cold Creek brand in England in 1866, 
 and heard dealers express their opinion that it was among the best of the 
 American factories. Since that time, if measured by the test of prices at home, 
 the process, at least in Mr, Hopson's hands, must be considered a success. 
 What is claimed in the coarse curds process, is the production of cheese, 
 solid yet mellow in texture, having a sweet, nutty or new milk flavor, or as 
 the trade expresses it, " clean flavored ;" and finally, a better retention of the 
 butteraneous matter of the milk, than in the ordinary course of manufacture. 
 
 The theory of the coarse curds is, that the less the cutting or agitation of 
 the curds while in a soft state the more butter you retain, hence the curds are 
 cut or broken no moi'e than is absolutely necessary, while the stirring is of 
 the gentlest kind, and just sufiicient to keep the mass from clinging together. 
 Mr. HopsoN sets the milk for coagulation at 80°, using a sufiicient quantity 
 of rennet to thoroughly coagulate the mass fit for the knife in an hour. Then 
 he commences cutting with a gang of steel blades, lengthwise of the vat, 
 going through once. 
 
 The mass is now left at rest from ten to twenty minutes, until the whey 
 begins to rise. Then a four-bladed knife (with blades three-fourths of an 
 inch apart) is used for the cross-cutting. It is set at an angle of 45° with 
 the bottom of the vat, and run through the mass crosswise of the vat. Then 
 if there is likely to be no immediate change in the whey, the mass is left at 
 rest for ten or fifteen minutes, and the knife used again across the vat, the 
 operator standing on the side opposite to where he stood for the previous 
 cutting. Inexperienced cheese-makers, or those who do not understand tlie 
 philosophy of cheese-making, advise that all the cutting be done as quickly 
 as possible, and if an instrument could be made for the purpose, would prefer 
 that all the cutting should be done instantaneously. This is evidently inju- 
 dicious, as the whey forms slowly, and a complete division of curds at once 
 in their tender condition cannot be efiected without liberating the oily parti- 
 cles, and thus causing Avaste. Such cutting is admissible only when acidity 
 is progressing rapidly, and all parts of the process require to be hastened. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 465 
 
 lu the coarse curd process, the cutting having been performed as just 
 described, it completes what is understood by " breaking " — for no other 
 division or breaking up of the particles is deemed necessary. Heat is now 
 begun to be applied very slowly, and the mass is stirred in the gentlest manner 
 possible, and no more than to prevent the curds from running or clinging 
 together. Great attention is paid to careful handling in this part of the pro- 
 ^cess, in order that none of the buttery particles be pressed out, the theory 
 being to let the curds do their own work as far as possible. The time of 
 heating up is usually about an hour or an hour and a-quarter, the mass being 
 raised to 100°. After heating, the cm-ds are only stirred occasionally to pre- 
 vent matting, and the mass remains in the vats till the acid is propeiiy devel- 
 oped. Mr. Hopsoisr depends for the most part upon the sense of smell in 
 determining the degree of acidity required, and with long practice and good 
 judgment in this respect, he is able to time operations so as to manage his 
 curds with great uniformity. The curds are now thrown into the sink to be 
 exposed to the atmosphere, where they are stiiTed, and when properly cooled 
 down and the acidity carried to the exact point desired, salt is applied. 
 
 THE SALTING 
 
 during the summer is at the rate of three and a-half pounds salt to one 
 hundred pounds curd, and it is thoroughly and evenly incorporated with the 
 curds. In spring and up to the 10th of May three and a-quarter pounds 
 salt is the rate. No sour whey is used except that employed for soaking the 
 rennets. The curds when ready to salt, aj^pear to be in particles about the 
 size of chestnuts. They have a very nice look and feel, being what cheese- 
 makers term " lively." 
 
 Although this is an old factory tlie buildings are in good repair, clean and 
 sweet, with neat suiTOundings. The size of the dairy-house is thirty by one 
 hundred feet, and the manufactory, which is a separate structure, thirty-six by 
 thirty-six feet. Milk is delivered from five hundred and fifty cows. Ordi- 
 narily the cheese is pressed in fifteen and a-half inch hoops, and will weigh 
 sixty-five pounds each. The factory is supplied with an abundance of pure 
 spring Avater of a temperature of about 52''. In summer a stream of water 
 is kept flowing under the night's milk in the vats, and the milk is stirred also 
 during the night with Austin's agitator. 
 
 On the 8th of September, 1869, Mr. Hopson had an order for one hun- 
 dred large cheeses, eighty colored and twenty .white. The order was com- 
 pleted on the 12th of October. These cheeses weighed three hundred and 
 thirty pounds each, and a handsomer lot could not well be got together. I 
 tested a large number of cheeses in the curing-room, and found them uniformly 
 very meaty, and of clean and delicate flavor. Something of their character 
 may be indicated from the fact that twenty-two cents per pound was offered 
 by a purchaser in our presence for the lot of large cheese, the highest market 
 rates at Little Falls at that time being nineteen cents. 
 30 
 
466 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 About two miles east of Salisbury Center is another " fancy factory," the 
 " Herkimer County," or " Avery & Ives " — giving tlie name of the proprie- 
 tors. This is an old factory, and the manufacturer, Mr. E. B. Fairchild has 
 been here seven years. Mr. Fairchild is, without doubt, one of the best 
 cheese manufacturers in the State. His cheese stands high amono- the " fan- 
 cies." He follows the coarse curds process, though not precisely in the steps 
 of Mr. HopsoN. His cheese is very solid, meaty and fine-flavored. An old 
 cheese-dealer and noted expert remarked to me, on the day of my visit, that 
 probably nothing finer could be found in the State than the lot of cheese then 
 on the shelves at the Avery & Ives factory. 
 
 The factory takes the milk of six hundred cows, and the receipts on 
 October 23d were five thousand pounds, and made into nine cheeses, which 
 weighed sixty-five pounds each ; in shape, Cheddars, being pressed in fourteen 
 and a-half inch hoops. The establishment is in two buildings, the making 
 department being thirty by thirty feet, and the dry house one hundred by 
 thirty-six feet, two stories high. The milk is set at 80°, the highest heat in 
 scalding 100°. The curds are cut coarse, somewhat similar to Mr, Hopson's 
 at Cold Creek, and the time of heating and extreme care in handling the 
 curds are also similar; but the salting is not so high, the rate in summer 
 being three pounds, and in fall two and eight-tenths pounds salt to one hun- 
 dred pounds curd. 
 
 Mr. Fairchild thinks the fine texture of his cheese results in a great 
 measure from having the milk in perfect condition at the commencement of 
 operations and then employing heat slowly, manijjulating the curds in the 
 gentlest manner, and finally, accuracy in developing the degree of acidity. 
 During cool weather in the fall, sour whey is added with the rennet to the 
 milk, at the rate of two pails whey for four hundred gallons of milk. He 
 thinks coarse curds make a more meaty cheese and produce a larger quan- 
 tity of cheese from a given quantity of milk than fine curds. Acid is devel- 
 oped in the vat with the whey rather than in the sink, and from long practice 
 and close watching, he is able to detect the changes from time to time very 
 accurately. The practice at other factories might be given, but these described 
 will suffice, it is believed, for all practical pui-poses. 
 
 making cheese prom a small number of cows. 
 
 If there happen to be three or four neighbors similarly situated, that is, 
 each having but two or three cows, it will be a good plan for all to join 
 together, delivering a certain quantity of milk daily at some central neigh- 
 bor's house, where the cheese is to be made. There will be no very great 
 trouble in this, and by assisting each other, all may be supplied. As the 
 labor in manufacture will be no more for ten pails of milk than for four, and 
 as the cheese can then be made up at once, it will be advisable to associate 
 together whenever practicable. 
 
 Ten pails of milk will make say twenty-five gallons, and the twenty-five 
 
Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. 467 
 
 gallons will give a cheese of twenty pounds, and perhaps a trifle over. If 
 the milk is worked in the manner I have described, the curds may be pressed 
 in a hoop eleven inches in diameter and about the same hight. Small cheeses 
 of this kind need not be bandaged. After coming from the hoop, they should 
 be oiled over with a little fresh butter to prevent the rind from checking, and 
 may be placed upon the shelf. They will need turning every day, giving the 
 surface a smart rubbing with the hand, which will prevent the cheese flies 
 from securing a safe deposit of their eggs. If the rind of the cheese gets 
 dry, it will be well to oil again with fresh butter. If j^roperly cared for the 
 cheese will begin to be mellow in four or five weeks, and will be eatable, 
 though age will improve it, and when six months old it should be of delicious 
 flavor and quality if well made. 
 
 DOUBLE CUEDS. 
 
 But if the quantity of milk is too small to make a curd for one pressing, 
 then resort may be had to what is termed double curds. These are managed 
 after the following manner : The milk is .treated precisely as if there was 
 sufficient for a cheese. After the curds have been drained and slightly salted 
 and are ready for the hoop, they are set aside in a cool place in the cellar 
 until next day. Then, after the next curds are ready, the previous day's 
 curds are treated with warm whey, so that they may be broken up, when they 
 are drained and the two days'' curds are thoroughly mingled together and 
 salted. They are then put to press, and will unite together the same as if 
 they had been a " one day's cheese." 
 
 I have seen some most excellent cheese made in tliis way, cheese as fine in 
 flavor and quality as one could wish to see. Sometimes curds are kept in this 
 way three days, or more, until a sufficient quantity has accumulated to make 
 a cheese of the desired size. In this way cheese can be made when only one 
 cow is kept. 
 
 GRAFTING THE CURDS. 
 
 There is another way of managing the curds, called grafting. As soon as 
 the curds are ready they are put to press. The next day the hoop is taken 
 oflf and a thin scale taken from the top of the cheese with a sharp knife, and 
 the fresh surface made rough with a fork. The top rind and the upper edges 
 being pared off" the parings are broken up and warmed by the addition of 
 whey. They are then mingled Avith the new curds and placed in the hoop on 
 top of the previous day's cheese and put to press. The two days' curds will 
 adhere, and in this way small quantities of milk may be utilized in cheese- 
 making. Grafted cheese should always be bandaged, for unless the whey is 
 very thoroughly drained from the curds, the two sections or grafts sometimes 
 will not adhere so firmly as the parts where they are not joined. It is a good 
 plan in grafting cheese, after paring off" the rind as I have described, to cut 
 across the cheese two or three times, taking out a small triangular strip. 
 Some people after paring the rind and cutting across as above, make the 
 
468 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 upper surface also rough by scraping with the point of a knife or fork, Tliis 
 is done for the purpose of giving the new curds a stronger hold on those of 
 the previous day. 
 
 MAKIJ^G CHEESE WITHOUT PKOPEE APPAKATUS AND PIXTUKES. 
 
 Sometimes the farmer who keeps only a few cows to supply his family 
 with milk and butter, would like also to make a few cheeses for family use ; 
 he does not care to make cheese to sell, and therefore hardly feels able to 
 purchase cheese apparatus and fit up a dairy-house after the most approved 
 models ; this he thinks would cost more than to purchase his supply of cheese 
 in the market. But it often happens that where this state of things exists, 
 the money cannot be spared for buying cheese, and so this luxury is dis- 
 pensed with at the family table. 
 
 Let us see now, how cheaply we can arrange for a primitive dairy. If 
 nothing better is at hand, a common wash-tub, clean and sweet, will answer 
 the pui'pose for setting the milk and working the curds. A hoop must be had 
 from the cooper. Let it be ten inches in diameter, top and bottom, by twelve 
 inches high, and fitted with a follower. 
 
 A PRIMITIVE PRESS. 
 
 A very good press may be made in a few hours from a twelve-foot plank, 
 and a few pieces of scantling. About a foot from either end of the plank 
 
 THE OLD-FASHIONED LOS CHEESB PRESS. 
 
 set up two short pieces of scantling four and a-half inches apart. Fasten 
 them firmly to the plank with bolts or pins. The lever may be a joist, four 
 by four, or four by six, and fourteen feet long. One end is secured by a pin 
 passing through the uprights at one end of the plank, and it is to move freely 
 up and down between the uprights at the other end. A weight hung at one 
 end of the lever and you have a press that will do good service. 
 
 The weights at the end of the long lever are a stone or two from the 
 field. There may be another lever arranged for raising the long lever or 
 press-beam, without removing the weights, which are stationary. We give 
 an illustration of an old-fashioned log press. 
 
 The hoop is placed near the stationary end of the press-beam, and blocks 
 put upon the follower, the press-beam let down upon them, and in this way 
 the cheese is pressed. A long, thin wooden knife will do for cutting the curds. 
 A gallon of good milk (wine measure) will make nearly a pound of cheese. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 469 
 
 the process. 
 
 Your milk having been placed in the tub, and the number of gallons 
 known, a portion may be taken out and heated in pans over a common stove. 
 The pan holding the milk should be set in another pan holding water or over 
 a kettle containing water, so as not to scorch or burn the milk in the pan. 
 Heat the milk and pour into the tub, till the mass indicates a temperature of 
 85*. Then add a quantity of rennet (which has been previously prepared 
 by steeping the dry skins or rennet in water), sufficient to coagulate the milk, 
 say in forty or fifty minutes. Now put your finger into the curd, raise it 
 slowly, and if it readily splits apart the mass is ready to cut into blocks with 
 the curd knife. After cutting into checks two inches square, let it remain at 
 rest ten to fifteen minutes for the whey to form. Then carefully break with 
 the hands by lifting up the curds very gently, and when the mass has been 
 gone over, let it rest for ten or fifteen minutes for the curd to subside. 
 
 Now dip oif a portion of the whey into the pans, and heat on the stove in 
 the same manner that the milk was warmed. In the meantime continue 
 breaking, by gently lifting the curd, until the particles of curd are about 
 the size of small chestnuts or large beans. Then pour in the warm whey and 
 continue heating and adding the warm whey until the mass indicates a tem- 
 perature of 98°. Do not be in a hurry, but take things leisurely, continuing 
 the breaking or stirring the curds while heat is being applied. It may noAV 
 be left at rest for half an hour and then stirred, so that the particles may not 
 pack or adhere together in the tub, and this treatment continued until the 
 curd has a firm consistency. Take up a handful and press it together in the 
 hand, and if on opening the hand it readily falls to pieces, it is about ready 
 for draining. Throw a cloth strainer over the tub and dip ofi" the whey down 
 to the curd. Then put the strainer on a willow clothes basket and dip the 
 curd into it to drain. It may now be broken up with the hands, and when 
 pretty dry may be salted in the basket or returned to the tub for salting. 
 Salt at the rate of four to four and a-half ounces of salt to ten pounds curd; 
 mix it thoroughly and put to press. After remaining from two to four hours 
 in press, turn and put to press again, leaving it under pressure till next 
 morning, when it may be removed to the shelf. Very small cheeses need not 
 be bandaged. They should be rubbed over with a little fresh butter, melted 
 and applied warm, or with oil made from the cream that rises from the 
 whey. They should be turned and rubbed daily until well ripened. 
 
 THE CHEESE ELY. 
 
 Most dairymen understand pretty well the habits of the cheese fly ; many, 
 however, do not understand how to provide against its depredations. Some 
 people profess to be fond of a skippery cheese, and regard it as an index of 
 what the English understand as a "cheese full of meat" — that is, rich in 
 butter. And it must be confessed that the cheese fly has a great partiality 
 for the best goods in the curing house. They do not so readily attack your 
 
470 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 " white oak " and skim milk varieties, hence the notion that cheese infested 
 with the fly is rich in butter is not far out of the way. 
 
 The primary cause of skippery cheese, of course, is want of care. Cheese 
 in hot weather should be closely examined every day ; they require to be 
 turned once a day to facilitate the curing process ; the bandages and sides are 
 to be rubbed at the time of turning, in order to brush off or destroy any nits 
 of the fly which may happen to be deposited about the cheese. If there are 
 cracks in the rind, or if the edges of the bandage do not fit snugly, they 
 should at once be attended to, since it is at these points that the fly is most 
 likely to make a safe deposit of its eggs. 
 
 riLLISTG UP THE CBACKS. 
 
 The cracks and checks in the cheese should be filled up with particles of 
 cheese that have been crushed under a knife to make them mellow and plastic. 
 When once filled, a strip of thin, tough paper, oiled and laid over the repaired 
 surface will serve as a further protection of the parts. The cheese in the 
 checks soon hardens and forms a new rind. Deep and bad looking checks may 
 be repaired in this way, so as to form a smooth surface, scarcely to be dis- 
 tinguished from the sound parts of the cheese. It is a great mistake to send 
 cheese that have deep checks or broken rinds to market ; for in addition to 
 their liability to be attacked by the fly, they have the appearance of being 
 imperfect, and are justly regarded Avith suspicion. 
 
 CUKING-KOOM KOT TO BE DARK. 
 
 Some dairymen think that a darkened curing-room is best for cheese, and 
 at the same time is the best protection against the fly ; I think this is a mis- 
 take ; cheese cures with the best flavor when it is exposed to light, and 
 besides, it can be examined more minutely from time to time and freed from 
 any depredation of the skipper. August and September are generally the 
 worst months in the year to protect cheese against the attacks of the fly. 
 Some years the trouble is greater than others, and various means have been 
 resorted to for the purpose of avoiding the pest, such as rubbing the cheese 
 over with a mixture of oil and cayenne pepper, &c. These things generally 
 do not amount to much, and are not to be recommended ; the best protection 
 is cleanliness, sharp eyes and a good care of the cheese. Whenever a lodge- 
 ment of skippers has been made they must at once be removed ; sometimes it 
 will be necessary to cut into the cheese and remove the nest with a knife, but 
 if the colony is young and small in numbers, a thick oiled paper, plastered 
 over the affected part so as to exclude the air, will bring the pests to the 
 surface, when they may be removed ; the oiled paper should again be returned 
 to its place and the skippers removed from time to time till all ai-e destroyed. 
 
 WASHING THE TABLES AND EANGES. 
 
 If skippers begin to trouble the cheese, the best course to be adopted is 
 to commence at once and wash the ranges, or tables on which the cheese are 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 471 
 
 placed, with hot whey ; this will remove all accumulation of grease or nits 
 about the ranges, giving a clean surface, which does not attract the flies. If 
 the cheese also is washed in the hot whey and rubbed with a dry cloth, the 
 labor of expelling the trouble from the curing-rooms will be greatly facilitated. 
 Keep the curing-room clean and sweet ; see that the cheeses have a smooth 
 rind, that the bandages are smoothly laid at the edges ; turn and rub the 
 cheese daily, and there need be no trouble from the cheese fly. 
 
 PAINTED CHEESE. 
 
 There are several kinds of foreign fancy cheeses that are peculiar in having 
 their sides painted with a dark brown or red color. The double Gloucester 
 or North Wilts, the small loaf and truckle shapes, and the Edams, are of this 
 character. In the old process of curing the double Gloucester the cheese is 
 rubbed with finely powdered salt, and this is thought to make the cheese 
 more smooth and solid than when the salting process is performed in the 
 curd. After the cheese has been in the curing-room and turned every day for 
 a month or so, it is cleaned of all scurf and rubbed with a woolen cloth, 
 dipped in a paint made of Indian red, or Spanish brown and small beer. 
 After the paint is dry the cheese is rubbed once a week with a cloth. The 
 Edam or Dutch cheese is colored on the outside, when ready for market, with 
 what is called tournesal, the juice of a plant {Croton tinctorium) which grows 
 wild in France. Rags are saturated in this juice and then exposed to the 
 vapor arising from lime mixed with urine, which gives them a violet color. 
 The cheeses are rubbed over with these tournesal rags, which gives them the 
 peculiar glowing red with which they appear in market. 
 
 A friend, who makes small fancy cheeses in imitation of English, and 
 which sell for a high price, makes a paint for coloring the rinds of the cheese 
 of the following: — Sharp, sour whey, salt, Venetian red and burnt umber. 
 The Venetian red and umber are added to the whey, so as to make a mixture 
 of the consistency of paint and of the shade desired, and when the cheeses are 
 ready for market the rinds are painted over and allowed to dry. He says 
 that this mixture holds its place and color on the cheese without flaking off, 
 and is altogether better than the English mixture made of beer and Indian 
 red. No bandage is used upon cheese treated with this coloring matter. 
 
 USE OF SALTPETEE. 
 
 The use of saltpeter in cheese manufacture has been long employed in 
 some of the dairy districts of England. It is claimed by those who use salt- 
 peter for this purpose that it helps preserve the flavor of cheese, improving 
 also the keeping qualities of the goods. I am unable to say how this may be, 
 never having made any direct expei'iments in my own dairy as a test. Salt- 
 peter is used extensively in curing meats, and most people understand some- 
 thing of its effects when employed for this purpose. I do not understand that 
 saltpeter has ever been used to any great extent in American cheese manu- 
 facture, but I am informed by an old and distinguished cheese factory manager 
 
472 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 at Oneida that it has been used at his factory with the best results. The 
 manner of preparing it for use is as follows: — Take from three to three and 
 a-half pounds saltpeter and reduce it to a powder. This will be sufficient for 
 one barrel of salt, best factory filled. Now spread the salt on a clean floor 
 and sprinkle over with the powder as evenly as jDOSsible, and mix thoroughly 
 by shoveling it over. It may then be repacked in the barrel and it is fit for 
 use. When the curds are to be salted use the usual quantity by weight of 
 the compound as you would of salt, if that alone was to be employed. I have 
 seen small quantities of saltpeter added to salt for preserving butter with 
 good results, and it is possible that saltpeter used for preserving cheese in 
 the way described may be of some advantage. 
 
 BAD FLAVOR. 
 
 It is very difficult to point out the cause of bad flavor in cheese without 
 seeing the cheese and knowing all the details in manufacture, together with 
 the condition of jjastures, care of stock, water, &c. There are a great many 
 things that affect flavor in cheese, and of all the months in the year June and 
 July are the most trying to the cheese-maker. Much of the July cheese is 
 often out of flavor, and manufacturers are often at a loss to account for it. 
 Cheese that is well made will take on a taint and get out of flavor by being 
 kept in a badly ventilated and ill-contrived curing-room. Cheese in curing 
 needs air and a uniform temperature not higher than 15'^. Some cheese- 
 rooms are excessively warm and close in hot weather, and the fermenting or 
 curing powers are carried on too rapidly. 
 
 Scurfy cheese show that there has been fault in manufacture. If it pro- 
 ceeds from whey oozing out, forming a kind of gummy, sticky substance on 
 the sides, the curds have not been properly matured in the vat. The cheese 
 when taken from the press to the table ought not to leak whey. Sometimes 
 a mold or scurf forms on cheese from damp weather, when the cheese is not 
 properly rubbed daily. The scurf should be removed and the cheese " slicked 
 up " before sending to market. 
 
 POISON CHEESE. 
 
 During a visit to St. Lawrence county a prominent cheese dealer of that 
 county called my attention to a case of cheese poisoning which had come 
 under his observation : — A lot of cheese had been purchased from a dairyman 
 of that county by the dealer referred to, and having been shipped by him and 
 placed upon the market, a complaint was instituted that the cheese proved to 
 be poisonous. No deaths, it is true, came from eating the cheese, but the 
 persons who ate of it were taken suddenly ill with pains and cramps and 
 excessive vomiting, showing evident indications that they had been poisoned. 
 
 It was an easy matter of course to trace the source of this illness to the 
 cheese of a particular daii-y, and immediately a thorough investigation was 
 inaugurated to discover the origin of the trouble. On an examination of the 
 dairy where the cheese was made nothing unusual was found in the manner 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 473 
 
 of manufacture, or in the appliances used in cheese making. The cheese had 
 been made in the ordinary tin vat, and all the processes of manufacture were 
 similar to those in common practice in the country. Due regard had been 
 exercised as to cleanliness ; no known poisons had been employed about the 
 premises, and it had become evident to the parties investigating that the 
 poison, if any, in the cheese, must have come from the salt, the annatto, or in 
 some way of which the cheese maker or his family were not cognizant, or 
 indeed to be blamed. 
 
 Samples of the cheese were also forwarded to Prof. jACKSoisr of Boston 
 for analysis ; and having been submitted to a rigid examination by this emi- 
 nent chemist, the opinion was further confirmed that the dairyman was 
 blameless in the matter. Dr. Jackson states in regard to the analysis of this 
 cheese as follows : — " Each and all of the samples were entirely free from any 
 tone poisons. There are no metal or mineral poisons of the kind present, nor 
 any alkaloids or deleterious vegetable princij^les. But there is a small pro- 
 portion of offensive putrefying animal matter wliich has been separated here 
 that does not belong to good clieese. It is impossible to give this impurity 
 any correct name, and it is only an opinion of mine that it comes from the 
 rennet used. It is not poisonous, although it occasions vomiting in dogs and 
 cats, and small portions of it may be taken into the human stomach with- 
 out effect." 
 
 The facts elicited in this analysis of Dr. Jackson correspond in some 
 respects with those discovered a few years since by Dr. Voelckee, and from 
 which it would appear that cheese, as Avell as other kinds of animal food, 
 under certain conditions of decay, generates a peculiar organic poison ; but 
 what the composiiion of this virulent poison is the chemists are as yet unable 
 to determine. Dr. Voelckeb stated to me that instances had come under 
 his observation where this poison in cheese had become dissipated as the 
 cheese passed into a further state of fermentation and decomposition, and that 
 the cheese could then be safely eaten, producing no injurious or unpleasant 
 effects. In his report upon this subject to the Royal Agricultural Society, a 
 case is mentioned somewhat similar to that referred to in St. Lawrence 
 county, and as it details more fully the nature of this peculiar poison than the 
 statement of Dr. Jackson, it will be of interest perhaps to present it in this 
 connection. 
 
 Without going into a history of the particular dairy or the various cases 
 of poisoning, it will be sufficient to say that quite a number of people were 
 taken ill after partaking of the cheese, and that samples of the cheese causing 
 the illness were forwarded to Dr. Voelcker for examination. This cheese, 
 he says, presented nothing in appearance which could be regarded as an indi- 
 cation of its spoiled condition or unwholesome quality. The taste was sharp, 
 peculiar and quite different from the rich and pungent taste of well-ripened 
 old cheese ; but it was not sufficiently characteristic of its unquestionably 
 poisonous properties. He says : — " Having analyzed at different times cheese 
 
474 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 which produced bad effects when taken in any quantity, I cautioned my 
 assistants not to take too much of it, and invited them to taste the cheese 
 sent. Certain chemicals, which are sometimes put into cheese, can to a cer- 
 tain extent be recognized by the peculiar taste which they impart. I tasted 
 it myself, and although I took a piece only the size of a hazel nut, I felt its 
 effects four hours after having tasted it. Both my assistants, who had taken 
 no more at the most than a quarter of an ounce each, five hours afterward 
 were violently attacked with vomiting and pain in the bowels ; one of them 
 was ill all night, and scarcely able to follow his usual work next day. Both 
 complained of a nasty mercurial taste, which seemed to remain with them 
 for many hours after partaking of the cheese. 
 
 " On a former occasion I found sulphate of zinc or white vitriol in a cheese 
 which caused sickness, and in another instance I detected in cheese sul^^hate 
 of coj)per. My attention, therefore, naturally was directed to search for 
 metallic poisons ; but though carefully operating on large quantities, I failed 
 to detect even traces of zinc, copper, mercury, antimony, arsenic, or any of 
 the metallic poisons which might possibly have imparted injurious properties 
 to the cheese. Having failed to detect any mineral poison I next directed 
 my attention to the examination of the organic constituents : the quantitative 
 general analysis gave the following results : 
 
 Water 37.88 
 
 Organic constituents 58.04 
 
 Mineral 4.08 
 
 Total / 100.00 
 
 Containing salt 1.33 
 
 " The proportion of water in this cheese was rather large, considering 
 that it must have been cut for some time, and have lost water by evaporation. 
 On further examining it I found it remarkably sour, and had no difficulty in 
 detecting an unusually large quantity of fatty acids, which if not poisonous 
 themselves are the vehicle conveying the peculiar organic poison which 
 appears to be generated sometimes in cheese undergoing a peculiar kind of 
 fermentation. 
 
 '^ Probably the poison generated in this modified decay of cheese is iden- 
 tical with the so-called sausage poison, which is sometimes found in German 
 sausages, especially those made of coagulated blood, A similar poison 
 appears to be generated sometimes in pickled salmon, smoked sprats, pork, 
 tainted veal, bacon and hams. Bacon and hams when not properly cured, 
 and fat meat, kept in a damp, badly-ventilated cellar, are very apt to become 
 more or less injurious to health, and even butter after it has turned rancid ; 
 and similar organic matters are liberated in it, which exist in this cheese in a 
 free state, acts as a poison in most cases. Singularly enough, some people 
 are not affected by these subtle organic poisons. 
 
 "The poison of cheese was known in Germany as long ago as 1820, and 
 probably even earlier. A great deal has been written on the subject, but we 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 475 
 
 are yet as far as ever from knowing the composition of this virulent 
 poison." 
 
 Dr. VoELCKEK further states that cases of poisoning by cheese, in which 
 no mineral poison can be detected, occur much more frequently than is gene- 
 rally supposed. And it appears that cheese kept in damp, badly-ventilated 
 places, or where too much whey is left, or indeed, all the circumstances which 
 tend to produce a too acid curd, and to generate fatty acids are apt to pro- 
 duce this peculiar poison. 
 
 Dr. VoELCKEE regrets that we have no means of detecting this invidious 
 poison, which, in a great many cases, has produced fatal results ; and he 
 remarks that, what is indeed strange, j^oisonous cheese of this character when 
 kept until it becomes quite decayed loses its poisonous properties and becomes 
 harmless. 
 
 Poisonous cheese always exhibits a strong acid reaction when tested with 
 litmus paper. A slight acid reaction marks all fresh cheese, but while the 
 outside of good old cheese is ammoniacal, the outside of cheese in which this 
 poison occurs is acid. 
 
 SCHWEITZER KASE. 
 
 The large element of foreign population now among us, and more espe- 
 cially that from the German States, has introduced a demand for certain arti- 
 cles which a few years ago were almost unknown in many parts of the country. 
 It is but natural that foreign tastes should thus creep in upon us by degrees, 
 and become more or less adopted by our native population. The Schweitzer 
 Kase and Limberger cheese, a few years ago were imported, and perhaps are 
 to some extent at the present time, but their manufacture now having been 
 established in this country, there is no necessity for such importation. Such 
 cheese can be made here of equal quality with the imported article, and can 
 be afforded also at less cost. 
 
 I have frequently had occasion to compare our Schweitzer Kase, or Swiss 
 cheese with the foreign article, and in the presence of good judges, who 
 pronounced the American quite equal in quality and peculiar flavor to the 
 foreign manufacture. Swiss cheese when eaten before it has acquired that 
 strong, rank flavor which is deemed essential, or at least seems to suit the 
 taste of a majority of foreigners, is very palatable, and many Americans who 
 have been accustomed to eat of it, grow fond of it, and prefer it to our best 
 grades of Cheddars. 
 
 A few years since I visited a factory in Oneida Co., erected for the pur- 
 pose of making Swiss cheese, and \vhere a very superior article was produced. 
 The manager here was a Swiss cheese-maker, and the arrangements and 
 machinery of the establishment were after the most approved Swiss pattern. 
 In the proper curing of Swiss cheese a room in which a low, even tempera- 
 ture can be secured is requisite, hence a cellar basement of stone is deemed 
 important for a good curing-room. The factory referred to was erected for 
 manufacturing milk from about two hundred cows. The building is about 
 
476 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 eighty-four feet long by thirty-four feet broad, and is placed upon a side-hill 
 so as to have a stone basement or cellar, some eight feet high and extending 
 under the entire upper structure, which is of wood. 
 
 The cheeses are pressed in two sizes — the one thirty-two inches, and the 
 other twenty-eight inches in diameter, but both are uniformly but five and 
 a-half inches thick. The larger-sized cheese will weigh when cured some- 
 where near a hundred pounds, and the curing process will require at least 
 three months. 
 
 The milk is made up fresh from the cow, that is, the morning's and even- 
 ing's mess separately. As soon as the morning's milk is received it is turned 
 into a large copper kettle, hanging upon a crane which swings over the fire 
 in a broad, old-fashioned fire-place. When the temperature of the milk indi- 
 cates 81® the rennet is added. After the milk has coagulated a circular wire- 
 breaker attached to a long handle is introduced, the curd broken up, and the 
 whole mass stirred with the breaker. The kettle is now swung over the fire 
 and the stirring kept up until the mass indicates a temperature of 120° to 
 125°, when it is moved back on the crane from the fire into the room, and 
 the stirring continued for half an hour longer, or until the curd is sufficiently 
 cooked. This is indicated by its firm and elastic condition, similar to curd 
 properly " cooked " in ordinary cheese-making. 
 
 A cloth strainer is now introduced under the curd, the ends of the cloth 
 brought together, when the mass is lifted out of the kettle, leaving the whey 
 behind. It is then immediately put to press and remains in press about two 
 hours, when it is taken out of press and plunged in cold water. Here it 
 remains for two hours or more, or until thoi'oughly cooled, when it is 
 returned again to the press, where it remains four or five hours. 
 
 In pressing, light, adjustable hoops, made of thin strips of elm wood, are 
 used. They are arranged with cords upon the ends, so that the size of the 
 hoop may be contracted or expanded at pleasure. On removing the cheese 
 from the press to the curing-room, these hoops are kept upon the cheese, and 
 serve in l-ieu of bandages. 
 
 No salt is used in the curd at the time of making as is usual in other styles 
 of cheese, but the salt is applied in the curing-room ; here dry salt in small 
 quantities is daily sprinkled over the cheese during the space of three months, 
 and after that they are treated with salt every other day. Every two or three 
 days during the curing process the cheeses are washed with brine, which 
 serves to remove any mold that may be inclined to form or adhere to the rinds. 
 These are briefly the main features in the process. The cheese, while 
 curing, appears to be more elastic, and will not readily break and fall to 
 pieces as that made in the ordinary way. When well made they are mellow 
 and rich, and of a sweet, delicate flavor if eaten before they acquire age. 
 They are quite porous, which is esteemed a mark of good quality. After 
 getting age they are apt to take on a peculiar rank flavor, which nevertheless 
 is regarded as delicious by those who have acquired a taste for it. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 477 
 
 Good Swiss clieese usua,lly brings an advanced price over the best grades 
 of factory cheese as usually manufactured, which, I suppose, is on account 
 of the small quantity made, and the supply being kept within the demand. 
 
 PINE-APPLE CHEESE. 
 
 So far as the manipulation of milk, and the treatment of curds are con- 
 cerned, the making of pine-apple cheese does not differ materially from that 
 of cheese commonly made at factories. The diamond-like impressions on the 
 rind, by which it is made to resemble somewhat, the scales on the pine-apple 
 fruit, are produced by the meshes of the net in which the cheese is sustained 
 to cure. The main features in the manufacture consist of the molds and nets 
 which give the desired shape and appearance to this style of cheese. 
 
 The molds are capable of holding from six to ten pounds of curd. The 
 mold is formed of four scantling, four or five inches square, by scooping out 
 "one corner of each in the right shape, and placing them together. The tim- 
 bers are long enough to alloAV a neck six or seven inches long, and three or 
 more in diameter, to be grooved from the same corners, and when they are 
 put together the curd is put into the mold through this neck, the neck also 
 being filled with curd pressed in. The separate pieces of timber are bolted 
 firmly together two and two, thus leaving it in two parts. These two parts 
 are held firmly together by a hoop of strap iron tightened by wedges. When 
 the cheese is to be taken out, the wedges are loosened, the hoop slipped ofi" 
 and the mold taken apart. The pressure is applied by any press, provided 
 with a follower that will fit the neck, into which it is forced, and the whey 
 escapes at the joining of the molds, which open a little by the pressure. The 
 cheese-cloth is used the same as in the common hoop, though it should be 
 pressed hard for a while to obliterate the impressions of the folds in the 
 cloth. The follower should be a little concave at the bottom and force the 
 curd down to a level with the curd in the mold. The whey should be 
 entirely removed, and the cheese rendered as compact as possible. 
 
 To eifect this a follower sharpened in the form of a bodkin at the lower 
 end, long enough to reach near the bottom of the mold, should be forced into 
 the cheese immediately after the curd has been somewhat compacted by the 
 follower, and the orifice filled up with new curd, if there is not enough already 
 in the mold to fill it. 
 
 After it has remained in press a sufficient length of time it is removed, 
 and a net is placed upon it similar to a cabbage net, knit with meshes half to 
 three-fourths of an inch square, when they are suspended by the tightening 
 cord to hooks driven into the wall or other place for the purpose. "When 
 thoroughly dried they should be smeared with sweet whey butter. After 
 hanging long enough to get their shape confirmed, the net is removed and 
 they are set upon the large end upon trenchers until perfectly cured. During 
 the whole process of curing they are to be rubbed as often as necessary to 
 give them a fair skin and keep away insects. 
 
1 
 
 478 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 The molds are sometimes made of blocks of oak timber, about twenty- 
 inches long and ten inches square. They are sawed lengthwise through the 
 middle, and each half is carved or worked out in the shape of a pine-apple 
 one-half in each part. Then a groove is cut about two and a-half inches i 
 diameter, for passing the curd into the mold. 
 
 Some manufacturers, after taking the cheese from tlie press, trim them,' 
 and then put on the nets, hanging the cheese for a short tim.e in water of 
 120°. This is to soften the rind, that they may the better receive the impres- 
 sion of the net, which is done by taking them from the water while enveloped 
 in the nets, placing them in a frame and straining the nets tightly over them 
 by means of screws. They are then hung up as before described, to harden, 
 and finally, are set on shelves having suitable hollows or concavities for the 
 cheese to rest upon. The nets are made from flax twine, and will last seve- 
 ral years. 
 
 The labor and trouble of making pine-apple cheese is so much, that a large 
 price must be obtained in order to make its manufacture a paying business. 
 
 STILTON CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese of this character at present is of no commercial importance to 
 American dairymen. Still it is possible small quantities may in time be made 
 for home consumption. Stilton is made from the morning's mess of milk, to 
 which has been added the cream of the night's milk, in proportion of a quart 
 of cream for every ten quarts of milk. The milk and cream having been 
 nicely mingled together, is set for coagulation in a small tub in which there 
 has been previously arranged a linen strainer. The mass is set in the ordi- 
 nary way with rennet, and when coagulation is perfected the curd is cut 
 across in large checks, and without further breaking, is lifted gently into a 
 willow basket for the whey to escape. No heat, except the natural heat as it 
 comes from the cow, is used during the process. After the whey has sepa- 
 rated from the curd in the basket, as described above, the curd is carefully 
 placed in a hoop, and is then turned every three hours, say four or five times 
 during the day. No pressure is applied except its own weight, and it remains 
 in the hoop without cloth or bandage, being turned from day to day, as 
 before described, until sufficiently consolidated to hold together, when it is 
 taken out, and a bandage pinned about it, and then it goes upon the shelf to 
 cure. The hoop is seven inches in diameter and eight inches high; it is 
 pierced with holes, and it has two little followers fitting above and below the 
 cheese, each pierced with holes for the escape of the whey. Two " setters " 
 or covers with rims are also provided and pierced with holes, so that in turn- 
 ing the cheese all that is needed is to change ends without taking the cheese 
 from the hoop. No salt is used in the curds— its application being from the 
 outside after the cheese is taken from the hoop. The cheese is kept at a tem- 
 perature of about 70° for some time, and then is placed in a warm room for 
 the development of the blue mold, which is considered of prime importance. 
 
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 479 
 
 improving hard, dry cheese. 
 When a cheese which has been much salted and kept very dry, is washed 
 several times in soft water, and then laid in a cloth moistened with wine or 
 vinegar, it gradually loses its saltness, and from being hard and dry, becomes 
 soft and mellow, provided it be rich cheese. This simple method of improv- 
 ing cheese is worth knowing. It is generally practiced in Switzerland, where 
 cheeses are kept stored for many years, and if they were not very salt and dry 
 they would soon be the prey of worms and mites. A dry Stilton cheese may 
 thus be much improved. 
 
 COTTAGE, OR DUTCH CHEESE. • 
 
 Cottage cheese is in some sections called Dutch cheese or curds. It is the 
 curd of sour milk drained from the whey, pressed into balls or molded in 
 small fancy shapes, and eaten when fresh, or soon after it is made. Some 
 people are very fond of Dutch cheese or curds, and the process of manufac- 
 ture is so simple and so well known, that we suppose every " good house- 
 wife " is well posted in regard to its making. 
 
 The milk is allowed to sour and become loppered or thick, when it is 
 gently heated, which facilitates the separation of the whey. The curds are 
 then gathered up, salted, or otherwise, to suit the taste, and pressed in small 
 molds, or formed with the hand into suitable shape, when it is ready for the 
 table and may be used immediately. In cool weather, when milk does not 
 readily thicken, the sour milk may be put in a suitable vessel set in hot water 
 over the range. The milk is then stirred for a few minutes, when the whey 
 will begin to separate, and it is removed, and another batch may be treated 
 in the same manner. 
 
 In summer some use large cans, having a spiggot near the bottom; the 
 sour milk is placed in these cans, and allowed to stand in the sun to thicken. 
 The heat of the sun will be sufficient to separate the whey, which may then 
 be drawn off through the spiggot. The curds are then removed to "a sink 
 having a slatted bottom, over which a strainer cloth is placed. The curds 
 thrown upon this strainer cloth are soon drained of the whey, when it is ready 
 to be pressed into balls with the hand, or molded into forms. 
 
 Sometimes this kind of cheese is potted and left to decompose, and when 
 it has acquired a strong, villainous smell, it is regarded as most delicious by 
 those who have acquired a taste for eating it in this state. In some markets, 
 cottage or Dutch cheese finds a ready sale, and quite a profit is made by cer- 
 tain butter-makers, in turning their sour milk into this product. 
 
 POPULAR WEIGHTS, BOXING FOR MARKET, ETC., ETC. 
 
 I have referred, in another place, to the Cheddar shapes as the most popu- 
 lar for export. Cheese weighing from forty to sixty-five pounds are on the 
 whole the sizes most commonly made at the factories. For home consump- 
 tion the growing feeling is for smaller cheeses than those above-named. A 
 cheese of thirty pounds weight is a very desirable size for our home trade. 
 
480 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 It is true the cost of manufacture may be greater, and the shrinkage is more, 
 still the consumer can afford to pay a better price for small-sized cheeses, 
 because of their convenience and less waste from decay and drying, incident to 
 large cheese, which must remain a longer time on hand before being consumed. 
 
 In boxing cheese, whether for export or the home trade, the greatest care 
 should be taken to have the packages well made, and wuth an extra band on 
 the lower edge. Cheese should never be sent to market until they have 
 properly ripened, and then they shoiild be placed in boxes that fit — boxes that 
 slip down easily over the cheese, but not so large as to allow " shaking," or 
 a movement from one side to the other in the box, nor in so small a package 
 as to prevent their being readily removed from the package M'ithout breaking 
 it. Good, substantial scale-boards should be placed on both sides of the 
 cheese, and no other material is so well adajDted to the purpose where cheese 
 is to be exported, or is to remain some time in the package during its transit 
 to market. For short distances heavy straw paper may be used, but care 
 should be taken not to pack with newspaper, as the moisture from the cheese 
 will reduce it to a pulp, giving the cheese a very bad appearance on removal 
 from the box. 
 
 When the cheese is in place the sides of the package should come ujd just 
 even with the top surface of the cheese. If it is below this surface the cheese 
 will be liable to be broken and marred about the edges. If the rim of the 
 box be a little higher than the cheese, it should be trimmed down after the 
 cheese is in the box with a sharp drawing-knife, and then covers that fit 
 closely should be adjusted. Sometimes the boxes are very imperfectly made, 
 with, loose-fitting covers that are liable to fall off in rolling the cheese from 
 the scales, or in moving from place to place. In such cases the covers are 
 sometimes tacked in place with nails, but when nails are used,. care should be 
 taken that they do not reach through the wood and into the cheese. 
 
 The boxes should be neatly branded with the name of the factory, or if 
 from farm dairies with the name of the dairyman, and for this purpose stencil 
 plates are most convenient, while the lettering makes a neater appeai'ance 
 than when the names are burned on with branding-irons. 
 
BUTTER MANUFACTURE. 
 
 The question of butter-making has now become one of great importance. 
 In my tour through Great Britain I took some pains to examine this subject, 
 and comj)are butter-making abroad with our new system as inaugurated in 
 Orange County, N. Y. The system has proved a great success, is being 
 rapidly introduced in new districts, and has attracted attention not only in 
 this country, but in Europe. 
 
 There is no people, perhaps, on the face of the earth more fastidious about 
 their food than the better classes in London. Possessed of immense wealth, 
 they pay liberally for extra qualities of food, particularly the products of the 
 dairy. Good butter they will have at any cost. Their finest grades come 
 from the continent — Normandy, Holstein and the Channel Islands. It is 
 worth from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty shillings per 
 hundred weight, or say about thirty cents gold per pound, wholesale, while 
 Canadian, the only butter imported from America, sells for fifty-four to ninety 
 shillings per hundred weight, and Irish extra, from one hundred and eight to 
 one hundred and twelve shillings per hundred weight. 
 
 Their best butter formerly came from Ireland, but the complaint now is, 
 that Irish butter is too salt, and lacks the delicate flavor and aroma of that 
 which comes from the continent. Irish butter is usually packed in stout oak 
 firkins, securely headed. Normandy and Holstein butter is in small pack- 
 ages, flaring at the top, resembling the Orange County tub. It is excellent 
 in flavor and texture, very slightly salted, and of a rich golden color. 
 
 In England I saw butter made for the Queen's table, at the Royal 
 Dairy, near Windsor Castle. The milk is set in porcelain pans, resting on 
 marble tables. The walls, the ceiling and the floor of the milk room are of 
 china, and the arrangements for ventilation are the best that can be devised. 
 Fountains of water are constantly playing on all sides of the room, which 
 helps to maintain an even temperature. The churn is of tin and the butter 
 is worked with two thin wooden paddles. The whole establishment, from 
 the milk-room to the stables, is the most perfect specimen of neatness that 
 can be imagined. I need not say that the butter is excellent. 
 31 
 
482 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 Cream of average richness, according to the analysis of Dr. Voelckek, 
 contains in one hundred parts : 
 
 Water, 64.80 
 
 Butter (pure fatty uialters), 25 . 40 
 
 Caseine and milk sugar, 7. 61 
 
 Mineral matters (ash), 2. 19 
 
 100.00 
 
 He says, that on an average one quart of good cream yields from thirteen to 
 fifteen ounces commercial butter. Occasionally cream is very rich ; thus Mr. 
 HoESBFALL statcs that a quart of cream in his dairy yielded one pound of 
 butter when the cows were out to grass, and no less than twenty-two to 
 twenty-four ounces when the cows were fed in the barn with rape cake and 
 other substances rich in oil. 
 
 The first portions of cream which rise are always thin, but rich in fat, a 
 fact that is explained by the circumstance that during milking and the subse- 
 quent agitation to which milk is exposed, a portion of the milk globules get 
 broken ; in consequence of which their light fatty contents, liberated from 
 the denser caseine shells, rise to the surface with greater facility, and 
 then occupy less room than the unbroken milk globules, which, on account of 
 their specific gravity, are more sluggish in rising. Generally speaking, cream 
 yields more butter when its bulk in proportion to that of the milk from which 
 it is taken is small, and vice versa. 
 
 The leading principles to be observed in butter-making, are cleanliness and 
 temperature. Experience has shown that a temperature of about 60° 
 and not higher than 65°, is most conducive to the rising of the cream glob- 
 ules, and the more uniformly the temperature can be kept at 60° through 
 winter and summer, the more readily the cream will be thrown up, while the 
 milk will be kept sweet, provided the dairy is dry and properly ventilated. 
 On no account should the temperature fall below 55°. 
 
 In cooling milk for butter-making this point is important. It must not be 
 imagined that the lower the temperature is allowed to sink, the more cream will 
 rise, for we must bear in mind that with the reduction of the temperature, the 
 specific gravity of the liquid is greater, and the rising of the cream or milk 
 globules checked accordingly. Every precaution as to habits of cleanliness and 
 the keeping from the milk and cream any article, plant, or impurity, which 
 can by any possibility communicate a taint should be rigidly adopted. The 
 pails and strainer should be washed [scalded with boiling water) and well 
 rinsed in cold water, and then sufifered to dry in the open air. Every article 
 connected with the dairy should be treated in a similar manner, as there 
 is nothing so prejudicial to new milk as being mixed with ever so small 
 a quantity of that which has become sour, and nothing so diflScult to 
 eradicate as the traces left in any vessel of that which has become stale 
 and decomposed. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 483 
 
 spoiling i2f the churn. 
 Perfectly good cream is often spoiled in the churn, when the dairymaid 
 has been negligent in properly cleansing it. "When the wood once absorbs 
 this milk taint it is very difficult to eradicate it by subsequent cleansing. 
 
 MANNER or CHURNING. 
 
 During the process of churning a certain uniformity of temperature must 
 be observed, or the butter will be soft and spongy instead of being firm and 
 compact. The agitation also of the cream should be regular — neither too 
 quick nor too slow. If the agitation is too quick the butter will make and 
 unmake itself before the churner is aware of it, as too rapid motion induces 
 fermentation, which, when it has reached a certain point is entirely destruc- 
 tive of anything like the possibility of making even moderately good or well 
 tasted butter. If, on the other hand, the motion be too slow, the agitators 
 in the churn fail to produce the desired separation of the component parts 
 of the cream ; and the consequence is, that after a good deal of time spent 
 in lazy action, the churner is just as far from his butter as he was at the 
 beginning of his labors. The best temperature for the cream in churning is 
 from 55° to 60°. 
 
 EXPERIMENTS IN TEMPERATURE. 
 
 Some years ago a series of carefully conducted experiments were made in 
 Scotland to determine the temperature at which butter can be best and easiest 
 obtained from the cream. The following table exhibits the mean temperature 
 of the cream used in each experiment : 
 
 1st experiment, cream stood at 57° 
 
 3d " " " eo'' 
 
 3d " " " 62° 
 
 4lli " " " 66° 
 
 5Lli " " " 70° 
 
 The butter produced in the first experiment was of the very best quality, 
 rich, firm and well tasted. That produced in the second experiment was not 
 perceptibly inferior to the first. That produced in the third experiment was 
 more soft and spongy, and that produced in the fourth and fifth experiments, 
 decidedly inferior in every respect to any of the former specimens. 
 
 From these experiments it appears that cream should not be kept at a high 
 temperature in the process of churning, and the experimenters conclude that 
 the best temperature to commence the operation of churning is about 55°, 
 and at no time in the operation ought it to exceed 65° ; while on the con- 
 trary, if at any time the cream should be under 50°, the labor will be much 
 increased without any proportionate advantage being obtained. 
 
 CHARACTER OF GOOD BUTTER. 
 
 Mr. Stevens well remarks that when butter is properly churned both as 
 to time and temperature, it becomes firm with very little working, and is 
 tenacious, but its most desirable state is that of waxy, when it is easily 
 
484 PRA.CTICAL Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable length without 
 breaking. It is only in this state that butter possesses that rich, nutty flavor 
 and smell which imj)art so high a degree of pleasure in eating it, and which 
 enhance its value manifold. It is not always necessary to taste butter in 
 judging of it ; the smooth, unctuous feel in rubbing a little between the 
 finger and thumb, expresses at once its richness of quality ; the nutty smell 
 indicates a similar taste, and the bright, glistening cream-colored surface shows 
 its high state of cleanliness. 
 
 FKEEING rKOlI BUTTEEMILK, ETC. 
 
 When butter forms the churning should cease, and the mass be taken out and 
 cleansed from any buttermilk which may still be incorporated with it. The 
 best test that this has been satisfactorily performed is the fresh water running 
 from the butter as pure and bright as when poured over it. It should be 
 recollected that the less butter is handled the better. Warm hands, however 
 clean, are apt to impart a taint ; and the difficulty of keeping them so per- 
 fectly clean as is absolutely necessary, appears to be almost insurmountable. 
 The ladle and butter-workei', therefore, should be used in all the necessary 
 manipulations. 
 
 THE MODEEK METHOD OF MANAGING MILK 
 
 for butter-making is to have a spring house for setting the milk ; churning the 
 cream rather than the whole milk. It is true there are those who contend 
 that a fine quality of butter can be made by churning the " whole milk;" but 
 such butter is apt to have more of the caseine or cheesy particles of the milk 
 in its composition, than when the cream alone is churned ; and this caseine 
 will injure its keeping qualities. 
 
 It has been contended, too, that when the whole milk is churned more 
 butter is obtained than by setting the milk and churning the cream. If the 
 butter contains a considerable portion of the caseine of the milk, this would 
 readily explain the reason for the extra quantity claimed. But, however this 
 may be, those who make " fancy butter," and have had long experience in the 
 art, prefer to make their butter by churning the cream, and it is the course I 
 should recommend. 
 
 MILK-EOOM FOE FAEM DAIEIES. 
 
 For farm dairies the Ceoziee milk cellar would seem to be a very good 
 model, as the building can be erected at moderate expense. A committee of 
 the American Institute Farmers' club, consisting of Mr. J. B. Lyman and 
 Col. F. D. CuETis, visited this establishment, and their report upon it is as 
 follows : — " The walls are thirty-six by eighteen feet, and it is divided into 
 ice-house, milk-room and butter-kitchen. Two tubes or conductors go down 
 from the upper part of the ice-house. They are made of boards eight inches 
 wide and an inch thick, with many holes bored in them. The holes allow the 
 cold air to enter from the ice, and it pours in a stream from the mouth of 
 the tube into the milk-room. The temperature of the air as it comes out at 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 485 
 
 the mouth of the tubes is about 35°. As the milk-room has thick walls and 
 the windows are high this flood of air at 35° is able to lower the mercury to 
 62°, and even lower, in July. Sometimes he closes one tube to keep the 
 room from growing too cold. The draught is the strongest in the hottest 
 weather. In spring and fall there is little current, and in winter, when the 
 fire in the stove is constantly burning, the draught would be the other way. 
 But then the mouths of the ice-tubes are closed. By this arrangement the 
 desired temperature is secured the season through, and there is no difference 
 between the June butter and the January butter. He makes June butter the 
 year round. He gets ten cents per pound over the highest market price. 
 Making, say, two hvmdred pounds a week, his gain is |20 a week by having 
 the best arrangement for butter-making. Thus his milk-house pays for itself 
 every nine months, to say nothing of the greatly increased facilities for doing 
 work afforded by a pump, churn and stove so convenient. He consumes 
 about a ton of anthracite in the four coldest months, and a slight allowance is 
 to be made for wood used in summer to heat water for washing and scalding." 
 
 THE BEST TEMPEEATUEK FOE SETTING MILK 
 
 to get the cream is about 60° to 62°. The range of temperature should run 
 no higher than 65°. The butter-makers of Orange Co., N. Y., are of the 
 opinion that the best quality of butter is made from cream that has been 
 obtained at a temperature a little below 60°. Cream can be obtained in a 
 short time, and in large quantity by raising the milk to a temperature near 
 boiling and then setting aside to cool; but such cream has more of the 
 caseine or cheesy j)articles of the milk mingled with it than milk set without 
 the application of artificial heat, and the butter will be injured in its keeping 
 qualities. 
 
 COLOE AND TEXTUEE. 
 
 In butter-making it is important to have the butter come of a good color 
 and of a texture that is hard and has a waxy consistency, and that will 
 retain that peculiar aroma which imparts so much pleasure in eating it. 
 
 THE MODEEN MILK PAN. 
 
 When it is not convenient to have a spring-house, the best arrangement 
 with which I am acquainted for setting the milk is the Jennings jjan. It is 
 of tin and sets upoa a shallow wooden vat, which is to be filled with water 
 from the well or pen stock, as the case may be, and thus the milk is rapidly 
 divested of its animal heat, and a pretty even temperature maintained while 
 the cream is rising. These pans are of different sizes to accommodate differ- 
 ent sized dairies, and each one is intended to accommodate the entire mess of 
 milk from the herd at one milking. Four pans are all that are needed for a 
 dairy, or at least with that number of pans the milk maybe kept until thirty- 
 six hours old before skimming. After the pans have been once filled the 
 milk that has stood the longest is skimmed and drawn oflT, and is then ready 
 
486 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 for the next milking. The age of the milk in the different pans from day to 
 day will be more readily seen by the following diagram : 
 
 Netv Milk. 
 
 Milk 12 hottks 
 
 OLD. 
 
 Milk 24 hours 
 
 OLD. 
 
 Milk 36 houes 
 
 OLD. 
 
 [3 
 
 Where a stream of cold water can be kept constantly flowing under the 
 pans, expensive milk-cellars can be dispensed with, and very good results 
 obtained in properly constructed rooms that are kept well ventilated. In the 
 Jennings pan the milk is set from three to four inches deep and there is an 
 arrangement of pipes for drawing off either the milk or water with conve- 
 nience. These pans are provided with gauze net-work covers to be used as 
 occasion requires for keeping out dust or flies. The general form of these 
 pans is represented in the subjoined illustration (Figure 1). 
 
 The Jewett pan is of very similar construction to the one just named, 
 except that the water underneath the milk is conducted in channels instead 
 of being spread out in a thin sheet as in the Jennings invention. 
 
 Mr. Jewett describes his apparatus as follows : — The illustration (see 
 
 FlGUEB 1. 
 
 figure 2) represents a full set of pans, arranged with fixtures necessary for 
 using them, for butter factories, or dairies large or small, by making them of 
 any size required ; for factories, as wide as can be conveniently skimmed from 
 the center, and long enough to obtain the required surface, it being perfectly 
 practical to make them large enough for one hundred and fifty cows ; for 
 more cows additional sets may be added. The way to use them is, put one 
 milking of the entire dairy into one pan, adjusting the faucet on the supply 
 pipe so as to use just water enough to extract the animal heat from the milk, 
 and keep it at the desired temperature while the cream is rising — from 60'' 
 to 62° ; at the time the fourth is wanted for use the first will be ready to 
 skim ; then stop the water from running into the pan, and open the faucet 
 near the bottom of the pan, that a sufficient quantity of water may run out, 
 while the milk is skimmed and run off to enable the milk-maid to clean the 
 pan. The bottom of the pans being protected from the warm atmosphere in 
 
Fravtical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 48Y 
 
 the room by tlie tables on which they set, the inside bottom being covered with 
 milk, the means of cooling is hidden, yet it is done by keeping the milk cool 
 in a warm, dry room without cooling or dampening the room, which is to be 
 desired by butter-makers, thus reversing the process of carrying the milk to 
 a cool place, where the benefits to be derived are so intermingled with dele- 
 terious influences that it is a good illustration of the saying, you must take 
 the bitter with the sweet. This way of handling the milk in my pans, besides 
 reducing the labor more than one-half, enhances the net proceeds of the dairy, 
 both in quantity and quality of the butter, fully twenty per cent. With a 
 book of instructions any good tin-smith can make and set them up. 
 
 As given in the engraving, one of the series of pans, A A, is represented 
 as broken away to show the internal arrangement. These pans are provided 
 
 FlGUEE 2. 
 
 with a space, B, between their top and bottom walls. Within this space 
 are a number of compartments, communicating with each other at alternate 
 ends, in such a manner as to form one continuous channel, zigzag in its course, 
 having an inlet at a, through which warm or cold water, as needed, is 
 received ; such water, after flowing through the tortuous channel formed by 
 the partitions, being discharged at the outlet, h. At h is shown the opening 
 through which the overflow of water is discharged ; the object being to keep 
 the channel in the bottom of the pan quite filled while the water is flowing 
 through it. At c is shown a faucet through which all the water in the channel 
 can be drawn off. 
 
 These pans can be made to serve the double purpose of milk-coolers or 
 
488 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 1 
 
 cream-raisers, the milk being kept at any temperature desired by raising or 
 lowering the temperature of the water flowing through the passages in the 
 bottom of the pan. When the cream has raised and has been skimmed, the 
 milk is then run off through the pipe, c?, which communicates with the main 
 discharge-pipe, F, which may be placed under the floor or not, as circum- 
 stances will permit ; or, if desired, the milk can be conveyed in movable 
 horizontal pipes from the pans into an adjoining room on the same floor. The 
 pipe seen attached to the side of the room and above the rows of pans is the 
 source of supply from which water is conducted to the base of the pans. 
 For cooling, the water is received from a spring or reservoir ; but for warm- 
 ing, from boilers or other appropriate apj)aratus. 
 
 THE CEEAM THAT PIEST RISES 
 
 is the best ; and to make choice butter, the cream should always be taken from 
 the milk before it becomes old and sour. The greater the decomposition of 
 the milk the more will the cream be affected, and as a consequence, the more 
 difficult will it be to obtain from it a nice quality of butter. 
 
 KEEPING QUALITIES. 
 
 Butter, to be good, must have some keeping qualities, for it cannot be 
 consumed from day to day as it is made. Well made butter, if properly 
 cared for, should retain its flavor and sweetness for months ; bat we cannot 
 expect to obtain such butter from cream that has been badly managed. 
 
 STRAINING THE CREAM. 
 
 Cream should have a uniform consistency, when it goes to the churn. If 
 portions of it are thick and mingled with hard, dry particles or " cream- 
 skins," the butter will contain " white caps," or be flecked throughout, giving 
 it not only a bad ajipearance, but injuring its quality. When cream is set 
 in shallow pans in. the old way, the butter is very liable to be thus affected. 
 The cream strainer here is of very great advantage, as it reduces the cream to 
 a like consistency in all its parts, breaking down the " skins " and jDreparing 
 the cream, so that in churning, the butter will come evenly. Baker's Excel- 
 sior Cream Strainer, illustrations of which we give in figures 3 and 4, is the 
 best that we have seen for the purpose, and gives valuable aid in the butter 
 dairy. Cream that has been raised in a temperature of 60° to 62°, should be 
 churned at about the same temperature. Butter-makers do not like to have 
 the cream churned afa temperature above 64°, as it injures the butter. If 
 the temperature fall below 55°, the labor of churning, as has been remarked, 
 will be prolonged. I do not believe in great haste in churning, or the shortest 
 time that cream can be turned into butter. 
 
 CHURNING TOO QUICK. 
 
 One often hears of churns in which it is claimed the butter will come in 
 " three minutes." It is possible that good butter may be got from the cream 
 in that time, but I have yet to be convinced that it can be done. That cream 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 489 
 
 can be churned into butter in three minutes I am aware, and although the 
 butter may be tolerable for present use, I have never been able to get a good 
 keepable article when the churning was done in so short a space of time. 
 The butter globules are inclosed or surrounded by thin pellicles of caseine. 
 In churning, these are broken and sej^arated from the oily particles. If the 
 churning is done rapidly the separation is imperfect, and hence we get an 
 article of butter in which there is too large a proportion of the shells of 
 caseine. It is the caseine and nitrogenized constituent of milk that is liable 
 to decomposition and which injures the flavor of butter. 
 
 COMPOSITION" OF BUTTER — INFLUENCE OF CASEINE SHELLS. 
 
 The philosophy or manner in which caseine injures the flavor of butter 
 has been well explained by Voelcker. He says : — " Butter consists mainly 
 of a mixture of several fats, among which palmitin, a solid crystalizable sub- 
 stance, is the most important. Palmitin, with a little stearine, constitutes 
 about sixty-eight per cent, of pure butter. Mixed with these solid fats are 
 
 FlGUBB 3. 
 
 FlGtJKE 4. 
 
 about two per cent, of odoriferous oils. The peculiar flavor and odor of butter 
 are owing to the presence of this small proportion of these peculiar oils, viz., 
 butyrine, caproin and caprylin. In butter, as it comes upon our table, we find 
 besides these fatty matters about sixteen or eighteen per cent, of water ; one 
 to two per cent, of salt; and v,ariable small quantities of fragments of caseine 
 shells. The more perfectly the latter are removed by kneading under water, 
 the better butter keeps ; for caseine on exposure to the air in a moist state, 
 especially in warm weather, becomes rapidly changed into a ferment, whicli, 
 acting on the last-named volatile fatty matters of butter, resolves them into 
 glycerine and butyric acid, Cg Hg O4 ; caproic acid, C12 Hjg O4 ; and caprylic 
 acid C]6 H16 O4 . The occurrence of these volatile uncombined fatty acids in 
 rancid butter, not only spoils flavor, but renders it more or less unwholesome." 
 If all the shells of caseine could be separated from the butter, it could be 
 
490 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 preserved readily without salt. Pure fat or oil is very easily kept sweet. In 
 some countries butter is melted and the impurities taken out by " trying " it 
 like lard. Of course butter treated in this way loses its aroma and texture, 
 but I mention the fact for the purpose of showing the principle to be observed 
 in obtaining butter of good keeping quality. In churning, I do not care to 
 have butter come sooner than from half to three-quarters of an hour. The 
 butter-makers of Orange Co., say that the churning process should occupy 
 from forty-five minutes to one hour. Their opinions are worthy of considera- 
 tion, because they make an article that is unrivaled in the market, and from 
 long and varied experience they ought to be able to settle this point definitely. 
 No one should attempt to make butter without . 
 
 USING A &OOD THEKMOMETEE, 
 
 especially in preparing the cream for churning. Old and experienced butter- 
 makers may guess at temperature pretty accurately, but the temperature of 
 the surrounding atmosphere varies so much from day to day, that no one can 
 be sure of being right, without an accurate instrument for determining the 
 degree of heat required in the cream to produce the best results. 
 
 MANAGEMENT EOK MAKING PHILADELPHIA BUTTER. 
 
 In the management for the noted " Philadelphia butter," the spring-house 
 is of stone, about eighteen feet wide and twenty-four feet long. Its founda- 
 tion is deeply set in a hill-side, its floor being about four feet below the sur- 
 face of the ground on the lower side. The floor of the spring-house is of oak, 
 laid on sand or gravel. The water is allowed to spread over this floor to the 
 depth of three or four inches, and the overflow passes to a tank outside the 
 building. Raised platforms or walks are arranged on the floor of the spring- 
 house for the purpose of moving about the room in handling the milk, etc. 
 The walls of the room are about ten feet high, arranged at the top with win- 
 dows, covered with wire gauze so as to give ventilation. Deep pans, of small 
 diameter, and well painted on the outside are used. They are provided with 
 bails, so as to be convenient in handling. The milk is strained into these 
 vessels to the depth of about three inches, and they are set directly upon the 
 oak floor, the water surrounding them to the depth of the milk, maintaining 
 a temperature of about 58°. 
 
 The milk sets here about twenty-four hours, when the cream is removed 
 and placed in deep vessels holding from ten to twelve gallons. As the tem- 
 perature of the room does not at any time rise above 58° or 59°, the cream 
 is kept at this temperature until it goes to the churn. In some establishments 
 there is a place in the spring-house, where the depth of water is eight or ten 
 inches, for the especial purpose of placing the pails of cream, and where they 
 are kept until the cream acquires a slightly acid taste, when it is ready for 
 churning. The essential feature in the management of milk, is to keep the 
 milk and cream near a temperature of 60°. And when a uniform tempera- 
 ture of this kind is preserved, the largest quantity of the best quality of 
 
 I 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 491 
 
 butter will be secured. The cliurning is usually performed twice a week, 
 though in some dairies which manufacture the "Philadelphia butter," the 
 cream is churned but once a week. In removing the cream from the milk the 
 Orange Co, plan is to use a funnel-shaped cup, with a long handle, dipping 
 off the cream until the blue milk makes its appearance. In the Pennsylvania 
 plan the skimming is done Avith a concave tin scoop, perforated with small 
 holes. The churning is usually done by horse-poAver at the large establish- 
 ments, and the temperature of the cream when the churns are set in motion, 
 is about 62°, and just before the butter comes, cold milk or a pail of cold 
 water is thrown into the churn. 
 
 The churn is of barrel shape, revolving on a journal at each head. The 
 churning occupies nearly an hour, and after the buttermilk is drawn off cold 
 water is added and a few turns given to the churn, and the water is then 
 drawn off. This is repeated until the water as it is drawn off is nearly free 
 from milkiness. The butter is worked Avith butter-workers, a dampened cloth 
 meanwhile being pressed upon it to absorb the moisture and free it of traces of 
 butter-milk. The cloth is frequently dipped in cold spring-Avater and Avrung 
 dry during the process of Aviping the butter. It is next salted at the rate of 
 an ounce of salt to three pounds of butter, thoroughly and evenly incorpo- 
 rated by means of the butter-worker. It is then removed to a table where it 
 is Aveighed out and put up into pound prints. After this it goes into large tin 
 trays, and is set in the Avater to harden, remaining until next morning, Avhen it 
 is Avrapped in damp cloths and placed upon shelves, one above another, in the 
 tin-lined cedar-tubs, Avith ice in the compartments, and then goes immediately 
 to market. Matting is draAvn over the tub and it is surrounded again Avith 
 oil cloth so as to keep out the hot air and dust, and the butter arrives in mar- 
 ket in prime condition, commanding not unfrequently from seventy-five cents 
 to one dollar per pound. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA BUTTER PAIL. 
 
 The following cuts (Figures 5, 6 and 7), illustrate the butter pail and 
 manner of packing for market. Figure 5 shows the general form of the tub, 
 
 FiGimE 5. 
 
 FiGTIRB 6. 
 
 Figure 7. 
 
 the top or cover opening in halves. Figure 6 is a cross section showing the 
 shelf with the butter prints arranged in place with sections of ice at the ends. 
 Figure 7 is a perpendicular section, showing the ice chamber and ice at the 
 sides, and the shelves of butter one above the other in the center. Ice is 
 
492 
 
 Practical Dairy Rusbajvbry. 
 
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 493 
 
 sometimes broken up and added to reduce the temperature, but the Orange 
 Co. dairymen think a too free use of ice is apt to injure the keeping qualities 
 of the butter. 
 
 THE AMERICAN SYSTEM OF BUTTEK-MAKING 
 
 rests mainly upon six great principles : — 1st. Securing rich, clean, healthy 
 milk ; milk obtained, if possible, on rich, old pastures, free from weeds. 2d. 
 Setting the milk in an untainted, well-ventilated atmosphere, and keeping it 
 at an even temperature while the cream is rising. 3d. Proper management 
 in churning. 4th. Washing out or otherwise thoroughly expelling the butter- 
 milk, and working so as not to injure the grain. 5th. Thorough and even 
 incorporation of pure salt, and packing in oaken tubs, tight, clean and well 
 made. 6th. Cleanliness in all the operations is of important necessity, while 
 judgment and experience in churning the cream and making the butter 
 must, of course, be had. 
 
 ( mT£nPIPE.ZOIl\I.BELOmSURF/!C£. 
 
 FiGUEE 9. Gkoukd Plan.—Butteb Factoet. 
 
 What really distinguishes the American system is the manner of setting 
 the milk so as to secure an even temperature, and applying to butter-making 
 the principles of association, so that the highest skill in manufacturing may 
 be obtained ; in other words, the inauguration of butter factories. 
 
 In previous pages of this volume cuts illustrating the ground plans of the 
 early butter factories have been given. We introduce here the subjoined 
 cuts (Figures 8 and 9) showing elevation and ground plan of G. B. Weeks' 
 new butter fictory. Referring to the ground plan (Figure 9), it will be seen 
 that in the arrangement the factory is quite as well adapted to cheese-making 
 alone as to butter and skira-cheese manufacture. The advantage of such an 
 arrangement is, that the factory may be turned at once to the making of 
 whole-milk cheese or to butter and skira-cheese, as one or the other system 
 
494 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 may happen to be most profitable. The ground plan explains itself and needs 
 no description. The upper story of the factory is for a cheese-curing room, 
 and may be divided off for other purposes as well, if desired. The factory is 
 regarded by many as one of the most convenient in its arrangement of any 
 of the modern built establishments. 
 
 THE WATER POOLS. 
 
 In the butter factories the milk-room is constructed so that good ventila- 
 tion is secured. It is provided with vats or tanks for holding water. These 
 should be sunk in the earth in order to secure a lower or more even tempera- 
 ture of water as well as for convenience in handling the milk. The pools are 
 about six feet wide, and from twelve to twenty-four feet long, arranged for a 
 depth of eighteen inches of water. There should be a constant flow of water 
 in and out of the vats or pools, so as to secure a uniform temperature of the 
 milk after it has been divested of its animal heat. The milk is set in pails, 
 eight inches in diameter by twenty inches in length (see Figure 10), each 
 holding fifteen quarts of milk. As fast as the milk is 
 delivered, the pails are filled to the depth of from six- 
 teen to seventeen inches, and plunged in the water, care 
 being taken that the water comes up even with or a 
 little above the milk in the pails. The temperature of 
 the water should be from 48° to 56°. A pool holding 
 two thousand quarts of milk should have a sufficient 
 flow of water to divest the milk of its animal heat in 
 less than an hour. Good, pure milk should keep sweet 
 thirty-six hours when thus put in the vats, even in the 
 hottest weather. When milk is kept thirty-six hours in 
 FiGUKE 10. the water nearly all the cream will rise. The Orange 
 
 Co. dairymen claim that it all rises in twenty-four hours. They say, too, 
 that they get as much cream, by setting in pails on the above plan, as they can 
 by setting the milk shallow in pans, and the cream is of better quality, because 
 a smaller surface being exposed to the air, there is not that liability for the 
 cream to get dry, which has a tendency to fleck the butter and injure its quality. 
 
 REGULATING TEMPERATURE. 
 
 One of the troubles of butter-making on the old system is in regulating 
 the temperature of the milk-room, and in knowing when to skim the cream. 
 It requires close watching. In our variable climate it is almost impossible to 
 keep the milk at an uniform temperature when set in pans in the ordinary way. 
 By the new system we always have an imiform temperature without trouble, 
 and therefore have perfect control of the milk. Again, in the new system, the 
 shells of caseine, inclosing the butter globules, are not so liable to decompose 
 and injure the flavor of the butter, for it is this caseineous matter that spoils 
 the butter, and even under the best management it cannot all be taken out ; 
 but by exposing only a small surface to the air we effect an important gain. 
 
Practical Dairy Hvsbanbrt. 495 
 
 patent chukns. 
 The Orange Co. butter-makers have tried a great many patent churns, and 
 they find none they like so well as the old barrel dash-churn. At the butter 
 factories they use the barrel and a-half size, and about fifty quarts of sweet 
 cream are put into each churn ; the cream is diluted with water, by adding 
 cold water in summfer and warm in winter, at the rate of sixteen to thirty 
 quarts to each churning. 
 
 THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CREAM IN SUMMER, 
 
 when the churns are started is a little below 60°, but in cold weather they 
 are started at 64°. In warm weather ice is sometimes broken up to put in 
 the churn to reduce the temperature to 56°, but it is deemed better to churn 
 without ice if the cream does not go above 64° in the process of churning, as 
 butter made with ice is more sensitive to heat. It requires from forty-five to 
 sixty minutes to churn, when the butter should come solid and of a rich 
 yellow color ; it is then taken from the churn, and thoroughly washed in cold 
 spring water. In this process the ladle is used, and three times pouring on 
 water is generally all that is required. It is then salted at the rate of from, 
 sixteen to eighteen ounces of salt to twenty-two pounds of butter ; for butter 
 intended for keeping through the winter a little more. The butter, after 
 having been salted and worked over, is allowed to stand till evening, and is 
 then worked a second time and packed. A buttei'-workei-, consisting of a 
 lever, fastened to an inclined table, is used for working the butter. Sometimes 
 in hot weather, after salting, it is taken to the spring and immersed in water, 
 when it it taken out, worked over, and packed in sixty pound pails. 
 
 WHITE OAK FIRKINS 
 
 are used for packing, and the greatest attention is given to have them strongly 
 hooped and perfectly tight, so as not to allow the least leakage. They are 
 thoroughly washed in cold water before using, then in hot water, and again 
 in cold water. After being filled with butter, they are headed up and a 
 strono- brine poured in at the top to fill all the intervening spaces. Another 
 advantao-e resulting from this butter factory system is, that the skimmed milk 
 is turned into skim-cheese. The butter factories, so far as introduced, if 
 managed by competent persons, have proved a success, and have revolution- 
 ized the dairy product of the neighborhood. 
 
 THEY EFFECTUALLY DO AWAY WITH GREASE 
 
 and put upon the market a high-flavored, high priced article. Wherever 
 butter factories are established, consumers go into ecstacies over their intro- 
 duction. " We now know," they say, " where we can always lay hands on 
 a prime article, and we do not mind the cost for a rare delicacy." 
 
 LOSING THE AROMA. 
 
 It is sometimes contended that the practice of washing the butter detracts 
 from its fine aroma. Doubtless this is so when the washing is excessive. It 
 
496 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 is difficult and laborious to expel the butter milk simply by working or 
 kneading. Wasting in water seems to be indispensable in removing more 
 perfectly the caseinous particles and securing butter that will keep. 
 
 BUTTEE CELLARS. 
 
 The Orange Co. factories are provided with butter cellars, cool, well 
 ventilated and perfectly free from all taints of decaying substances. It is 
 needless to say that these are indispensable to the butter-maker. To private 
 or family dairies, where butter alone is produced, the system is well adapted. 
 The appliances are not expensive, and compared with the great advantages 
 over old methods cannot be over-estimated. 
 
 SKIMMED-CHEESE MANLTPACTUEE. 
 
 In making skimmed-milk cheese, we do not advise that all the cream 
 that will rise be taken from the milk. It is important in the realization of 
 good profits to have a skim cheese of fair quality that will meet with ready 
 sale at a fair price. If all the cream that can be obtained from the milk be 
 removed and the milk then turned into cheese, it will lack quality, and the 
 loss in price will be much more than the value of a little cream which should 
 go with the skimmed milk for the purpose of improving the quality of the 
 cheese, and rendering it more palatable. 
 
 If the milk is set in cans plunged in sj^ring water, on the Orange county 
 system, the morning's mess may stand for cream say twenty-four hours, or 
 until next morning ; and the night's milk twelve hours. The two messes of 
 milk may then be skimmed, and the milk mingled together, placed in the vat 
 for cheese-making. The manufacture of skim-cheese does not differ mate- 
 rially from that of whole milk cheese. The milk in the vat being raised to a 
 temperature of 82°, a sufficient quantity of rennet is added to perfect coagu- 
 lation in about fifty minutes or an hour. Then the mass is cut with a steel- 
 bladed curd-knife, the process of breaking effected as with whole milk cheese. 
 The curd now having been allowed to subside, a gentle heat is begun to be 
 applied, and the mass is very gradually raised to a temperature of 96°, the 
 curds meanwhile being stirred, so as to keep from packing or clinging together. 
 The curds are retained in the whey until properly matured, or as dairymen 
 usually express it, " scalded," when the whey is drawn, the curds removed to 
 the sink, and manipulated as with whole milk curds, and then salted at the 
 rate of three pounds salt to one hundred of curd. Skimmed-cheese is usually 
 made in small, flat shapes, somewhat similar to the single Gloucester of Eng- 
 lish manufacture. They may be pressed in smaller hoops if desired, but very 
 thick shapes should be avoided, as they do not cure so evenly and are more 
 liable to get out of flavor. The most difficult part in manufacture is to know 
 when the curds are properly matured or scalded. This is only to be learned 
 by practice, or by handling the curds. 
 
 In making skim-cheese it is important that a good, salable article be pro- 
 duced. When milk is set in pans for butter making, about twenty pounds 
 
Fr ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 497 
 
 of milk on an average will produce one pound of butter. In the skim-cheese 
 and butter manufacture, about twenty-eight or thirty pounds of milk on 
 an average are taken to make one pound of butter and two pounds of skim- 
 cheese ; thus a basis is given in which to estimate the result of operations. 
 
 In regard to the quantity of milk taken to make a pound of butter, I have 
 named twenty pounds as an average, that quantity having been reported from 
 the dairy practice of Hon. Zadock Pratt of Green Co., N. Y. In his 
 report, going over several years, we find that during some seasons a much 
 larger quantity of milk was required to make a pound of butter. As milk 
 varies very much in character from a variety of causes, it mnst be evident 
 that no exact standard can be given to apply in all cases. These figures must 
 therefore, refer only to milk of average good quality. 
 
 MILK FOR SKIM-CHBBSE MAKING 
 
 must not be allowed to sour. It must be kept sweet, and this is easily done 
 with the proper appliances. If the cream is churned sweet, and the butter- 
 milk has not changed, it may be added to the skimmed milk, and thus 
 employed for cheese-making. 
 
 BUTTERMILK 
 
 can hardly be regarded as of equal average value to the milk with which it is 
 mixed for cheese-making. The value of buttermilk for cheese-making varies 
 greatly from a variety of circumstances. Some specimens may be quite rich 
 and others exceedingly poor. In a specimen of cream examined by Berze- 
 Lius, the butter milk in one hundred parts was composed of cheesy matter, 
 3.5 ; whey matter, 92.0. Cream varies very much in composition, according 
 to the circumstances under which it is produced. Cream of average quality 
 contains about twenty-five per cent, of butter. The analysis of two samples 
 of cream gave the following : 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Water, 
 
 Butter (pure fatty matter), 
 
 Caseine, 
 
 Milk sugar, 
 
 Mineraf matter, 
 
 If it were possible to take all the butter from the cream by churning we 
 should have in the buttermilk of the above samples a trifle over two and 
 a-half pounds of cheesy matter out of a hundred pounds of cream. Or, if 
 we take out the butter, letting the balance represent the butter milk, the first 
 sample would give a little over two and a-half poiands of cheesy material 
 from neai'ly eighty-nine pounds of buttermilk, and in the second sample 
 about the same amount of cheesy matter from sixty-six and a-half j)ounds of 
 32 
 
498 Practical Dairy Husbanbry. 
 
 buttermilk. But in churning the cream a j)ortion of the butter remains in 
 the buttermilk, so it would be no easy matter to say how much cheese one 
 hundred pounds of buttermilk would yield. Milk, in the fall of the year, is 
 quite rich in butter, and even when the night's milk is skimmed and added to 
 the whole milk of the morning, the mixture will probably yield a pound of 
 cheese from nine pounds of milk. 
 
 CHTJENING THE CREAM OR THE MILK. 
 
 It is claimed, as has been remarked, and with some reason, that churning 
 the whole milk makes more butter than to set the milk and churn the cream. 
 In setting the milk there is always a small portion of cream remaining in the 
 milk after skimming ; and again, in churning whole milk there are more shells 
 of caseine mixed with the butter. This cheesy matter increases the weight 
 but diminishes the quality of the butter. The shells of caseine also give 
 a whitish appearance to the buttei', injuring its color. I do not say but that 
 very good butter may be made from churning whole milk, but it is more diffi- 
 cult than to make from the cream ; and hence, for a choice article, of fine 
 color, full of aroma and of long keeping qualities, I should advise setting 
 the milk and churning the cream. A temperature of about 65°, or a little 
 above, is said to be the best for churning whole milk if sweet, but the usual 
 temperature employed is from 60° to 65°. 
 
 THE DUTCH PROCESS. 
 
 The process of making butter by churning the milk and cream together 
 is practiced to some extent in Holland. In the Dutch process the milk is put 
 into deep jars in a cool place, each meal or portion milked at one time being 
 kept separate. As soon as there is the least appearance of acidity, the whole 
 is placed in an upright churn to be churned. When the butter begins to form 
 in small kernels the contents of the churn are emptied in a sieve that lets the 
 butter milk pass through ; the butter is then formed into a mass. 
 
 THE SCOTCH METHOD. 
 
 In some of the dairy districts of Scotland the process is somewhat similar. 
 The milk when it is drawn from the cow is placed from six to twelve hours in 
 a cooler. When completely cooled the whole meal is emptied into a large 
 wooden tub or vat. If the vat is sufficiently capacious and a second meal of 
 milk has become cold, before the first exhibits any acidity, the two may be 
 mixed together. A lid or cover is then put over the vat, which is allowed to 
 stand undisturbed until the milk has soured and become loppered or coagu- 
 lated. When it has arrived at this state it is fit to be churned. It is put in 
 the churn and agitated a few minutes merely to break the coagulum of the 
 milk. The mass is then brought to a temperature of 70° and churned. In 
 some sections the milk is churned sweet, either a few hours after milking, or 
 the night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together, and churned in the 
 afternoon. It is more work to churn the milk than the cream. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 499 
 
 turning the milk to most profit. 
 
 When it is desired to turn milk to most account or profit, it should be 
 set for cream, and this being removed while sweet, the skim-milk may be 
 made into skim-cheese. Small skim-cheeses well made, meet with ready sale 
 at a fair price. The whey resulting from the manufacture of the skim-cheese, 
 when mixed with meal, is turned to good account as a feed for hogs, and in 
 this way nothing is wasted. 
 
 COLORING BUTTER. 
 
 One of the market requisites in butter is that it be of a rich yellow or 
 golden color. The fact that grass butter always has a rich shade without 
 resorting to artificial coloring, is sufiicient reason on the part of consumers 
 for suspecting that white butter must be of inferior quality. Late fall or 
 spring butter made from the milk of cows fed upon hay, is generally deficient 
 in color, and unless some artificial means be employed to give it the desired 
 shade, it will not command a price in market equal to butter of the same 
 texture and quality that has been colored. 
 
 Pure annatto when properly prepared is very successfully used for impart- 
 ing a good color to fall and winter butter. Annatto, of course, adds nothing 
 to the flavor or quality of butter, but as the pure article when thus employed 
 is quite harmless, there can be no serious objection to its use. In coloring 
 butter with annatto it is important that a prime article be used, and to have 
 it prepared so that it shall be free from sediment. Nicholl's English liquid 
 annatto is a very good article for this purpose, but the annattoine, or dry 
 extract of annatto, prepared as for cheese-making, after D. H. Burrell's 
 receipt, which has been given on a previous page, is the best material for 
 coloring butter artificially that I have seen. 
 
 It gives a rich shade of color, is quite free from sediment, and from any 
 deleterious adulteration. Doubtless the best way of coloring butter late in 
 fall and spring, is to feed the cows upon early cut hay, nicely cured, with the 
 addition of a daily mess of carrots, oat and corn meal, etc., as no artificial 
 coloring will then be required, while the flavor and quality of the butter 
 approximates more nearly to that made when the cows are at pasture. But 
 as the kind of hay I have named may not be at hand, something, of course, 
 must be done to take away that tallowy look which winter and spring butter 
 is apt to have. 
 
 coloring with carrots. 
 
 I have seen a rich yellow color imparted to butter by coloring with 
 carrots. The carrots should be thoroughly cleaned, then with a knife scrape 
 off the yellow exterior only, and soak it in boiling milk for ten or fifteen 
 minutes. It is then strained through a fine cloth, and the liquid added to the 
 cream before churning. It not only gives a nice color, but some think it 
 imparts a sweetness of flavor to the butter, somewhat resembling that 
 obtained when the cows are feeding upon grass. When carrots are used for 
 
500 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 the purpose indicated, the outer or yellow portion of the root only is 
 employed. I have heard it suggested that butter colored in this way (with 
 carrots), is injured somewhat in its keeping qualities, but in my own expe- 
 rience I have not found this to be the case. In the use of annatto it is under- 
 stood, of course, that the coloring is to be added to the cream before churning. 
 In the American Agricultural Annual for 1868, Prof. S. W. Johnson of 
 Sheffield Scientific School, Yale College, has an interesting article wherein the 
 philosophy of butter making is discussed. We make the following extracts. 
 He says : 
 
 "avekage composition op the products obtained from milk in 
 
 making butter. 
 
 " In making butter, one hundred parts of milk yield on the average, in round 
 numbers, the following proportions of cream, butter, etc., provided the cream 
 rises in a cool apartment, so that no sensible evaporation of water takes place : 
 
 Butter milk, 6.0 
 
 Butter, -. 4.0 ) Calculated 
 
 Water removed from butter by saltiug, 0. 1 f without salt. 
 
 Cream, 10.0 10 
 
 Skimmed milk, 90 
 
 100 
 " The average percentage composition of these products is given in the subjoined table: 
 
 
 New 
 Milk. 
 
 Skimmed 
 Milk. 
 
 Ceeam. 
 
 BUTTEKMLLK. 
 
 BUTTEE.t 
 
 Brine, t 
 
 Fat, 
 
 Allumiuoids,* 
 
 Milk sugar, 
 
 Ash, 
 
 4.00 
 3.25 
 4.50 
 0.75 
 87.50 
 
 0.55- 
 3.37 
 4.66 
 0.78 
 90.64 
 
 35.00 
 2.20 
 3.05 
 0.50 
 
 59.25 
 
 1.67 
 3.33 
 4.61 
 
 0.77 
 89.62 
 
 85.00 
 0.51 
 0.70 
 0.12 
 
 13.67 
 
 0.00 
 0.39 
 3.84 
 0.86 
 
 Water, 
 
 94.91 
 
 
 
 Total, 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 
 
 * Caseine and albumen. 
 
 JUnsalted. 
 Brine that separates on working after saltiug; salt not included. 
 
 "when IS MILK OR CREAM READY FOR CHURNING? 
 
 It is very difficult, if not impossible, to bring butter from fresh milk, or 
 from thin cream that gathers upon milk kept cold for twenty-four hours. It 
 has been supposed that milk should sour before butter can be made. This is 
 an error ; numberless trials having shown that sweet milk and sweet cream 
 yield butter, as much and as easily as sour cream, provided they have stood 
 for some time at medium temperature. The fat of milk exists in minute 
 globules which are inclosed in a. delicate membrane. It was natural to sup- 
 pose that in fresh milk this membrane prevents the cohesion of the fatty 
 matters, and that, when, by standing, the milk or cream becomes capable of 
 yielding butter after a short churning, it is because the membrane has disap- 
 peared or become extremely thin. Experiments show, in fact, that those sol- 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 501 
 
 vents which readily take up fat, as ether for example, dissolve from sweet 
 milk more iu proportion to the length of time it has stood at a medium 
 temperature. 
 
 " Readiness for churning depends chiefly upon the time that has elapsed 
 since milking, and the temperature to which it has been exposed in the pans. 
 The colder it is the longer it must be kept. At medium temperature, 60° to 
 70* F., it becomes suitable for the churn in twenty-four hours, or before the 
 cream has entirely risen. Access of air appears to hasten the process. The 
 souring of the milk or cream has, directly, little to do with preparing them 
 for the churn. Its influence is, howevei', otherwise felt, as it causes the 
 caseine to pass beyond that gelatinous condition in which the latter is inclined 
 to foam strongly at low temperatures, and by enveloping the fat globules 
 hinders their uniting together. On churning cream that is very sour, the 
 caseine separates in a fine, granular state, which does not interfere with the 
 " gathering " of the butter. Even the tenacious, flocky mass that appears on 
 gently heating the sweet whey from Cheshire cheese, may be churned without 
 difficulty after becoming strongly sour. 
 
 " Cream churned when slightly sour, as is the custom in the Holstein dairies, 
 yields butter of a jDCCuliar and fine aroma. Butter made from sour cream is 
 destitute of this aroma, and has the taste which the Holstein butter acquires 
 after keeping some time. Stirring of cream does not promote souring, but 
 rather hinders it by increasing access of air ; it may be advantageous in mak- 
 ing the souring uniform. 
 
 "the tempekatuee while churning. 
 which is most favorable for gathering the butter with the proper softness and 
 adhesiveness, is 66® to 70° F. The melting point of butter made on dry 
 hay is slightly higher than that produced on grass, or while feeding with oil 
 cake ; . correspondingly we find that, in winter, it is customary to churn a few 
 degrees warmer than in summer. Sour cream may be cooled by direct addi- 
 tion of Avater, but sweet cream is thereby prevented from yielding its butter. 
 In the latter case, cold skim-milk may be used, or the cream should be cooled 
 by water external to the churn. 
 
 " the duration of churning. 
 as is well recognised in practice, is of great influence on both the quality and 
 quantity of the butter. Half an hour, at least, is considered essential by 
 experienced dairymen for churning, when the volume of cream is considerable, 
 and an hour or even more is not thought too much. The object of churning 
 is to bring the fat globules of the cream or milk, which, by standing a suit- 
 able time, have become divested of their envelopes, into contact so that they 
 unite to a coherent mass. The gentler the motion to which the cream is sub- 
 jected, the more slowly goes on the process of agglutination, and the closer 
 and finer the union takes place. By slow churning the butter leaves the 
 churn in a nearly finished condition, and requires a comparatively small 
 
I 
 
 502 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 amount of working to complete its preparation. On the contrary, when 
 butter is to come in a few minutes by violent agitation, as in the strife for the i 
 repute of quick work in case of trials of new churns, there is obtained, ! 
 instead of good butter in dense and large clumps, a doughy mass consisting I 
 of little balls of fat mixed with buttermilk and cream, and full of air bubbles, 
 which no skill in working can convert into good butter. While it is true 
 that violent churning will produce a greater weight of so-called butter, it is 
 demonstrated by chemical analysis that the milk or cream thus treated does 
 not yield so much of its fat as is obtained by slower and gentler agitation. 
 The greater weight of the product is due to the admixture of butter milk, 
 which is retained in the spongy mass. The fact that churning must go on 
 for some time before any visible change is effected in the cream, and that the 
 blatter ' comes ' somewhat suddenly, is due to the exceeding minuteness of 
 the fat globules, of which myriads must unite before they attain a size visible 
 to the unaided eye. 
 
 " WASHING BUTTEE. 
 
 To prepare butter for keeping without danger of rancidity and loss of 
 its agreeable flavor, great pains is needful to remove the buttermilk as com- 
 pletely as possible. This is very imperfectly accomplished by simply work- 
 ing or kneading. As the analysis before quoted shows, salting removes but 
 little besides water and small quantities of sugar. Caseine, which appears 
 to spoil the butter for keeping, is scarcely diminished by these means. 
 "Washing with water is indispensable for its removal. In Holland and parts 
 of Ilolstein it is the custom to mix the cream with a considerable amount of 
 water in churning. The butter is thus washed as it ' comes.' In Holland it 
 is usual to wash the butter copiously with water besides. The finished article 
 is more remarkable for its keeping qualities than for fineness of flavor when 
 new. The Holstein butter, which is made without washing, has at first a 
 more delicious aroma, but appears not to keep so well as washed butter. 
 Swedish butter, made by Gussandee's method, in which the cream rises 
 completely in twenty-four hours, the milk being maintained at a temperature 
 of 60® to 75" F., is, when jKepared without water, the sweetest of all. If, 
 however, it is to be kept a length of time, it must be thoroughly washed 
 before salting. 
 
 " SALTING. 
 
 " Immediately after chui-ning the mass consists of a mixture of butter 
 with more or less cream. In case very rich cream (from milk kept warm) is 
 employed, as much as one-thii'd of the mass may be cream. The process of 
 working completes the union of the still unadhering fat globules, and has, 
 besides, the object of removing the buttermilk as much as possible. The 
 buttermilk, the presence of which is objectionable in new butter by impair- 
 ing the taste, and which speedily occasions rancidity in butter that is kept, 
 cannot be properly removed by working alone. Washing, as already 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 503 
 
 described, aids materially in disposing of the buttermilk, but there is a 
 limit to its use, since if applied too copiously, the fine flavor is impaired. 
 After working and washing there remains in the butter a quantity of butter- 
 milk or water which must be removed if the butter is to admit of preserva- 
 tion for any considerable time. To accomplish this as far as possible, salting 
 is employed. The best butter-makers, after kneading out the buttermilk as 
 for as practicable, avoiding too much working so as not to injure the consis- 
 tency or ' grain ' of the butter, mix with it about three per cent, of salt, 
 which is worked in layers, and then leave the whole twelve to twenty-four 
 hours. At the expiration of this time the butter is again worked, and still 
 another interval of standing, with a subsequent working, is allowed in case 
 the butter is intended for long keeping. Finally, when put down, additional 
 salt (one-half per cent.) is mixed at the time of packing into the tubs or 
 crocks. The action in salt is osmotic. It attracts water from the buttermilk 
 that it comes in contact with, and also takes up the milk sugar. It effects 
 thus a partial separation of the constituents of the buttermilk. At the same 
 time it penetrates the latter and converts it into a strong brine which renders 
 decomposition and rancidity difficult or impossible. Sugar has the same 
 effect as salt, but is more costly and no better in any respect. Independently 
 of its effect as a condiment, salt has two distinct offices to serve in butter- 
 making, viz. : 1st, to remove buttermilk as far as possible from the pores of 
 the butter; and 2d, to render innocuous what cannot be thus extracted." 
 
 TAINTS IN" BUTTER-MAKING. 
 
 Little things have much to do in dairy management. It is a little thing 
 in butter-making that often spoils a large quantity of butter. Due attention 
 may have been paid to pasturage, to cows, to milking, to setting the milk and 
 churning the cream, and yet the butter turns out to be ill-flavored and inferior 
 for the table. That clealiness and a pure atmosphere for milk and cream are 
 essential to success in butter-making, seems to be one of the most difficult 
 things for people to understand. I have seen butter spoiled by standing the 
 cream in wooden vessels — vessels that had absorbed a taint from decomposed 
 cream and which no ordinary cleansing would remove ; nor could dairymaids 
 sometimes be made to believe that so apparently slight a cause would produce 
 the difficulty until a change from wood to stone cream pots changed the whole 
 character of their products. Some dairymen are in the habit of standing 
 their. 
 
 CKEAM POTS IN THE KITCHEN PANTRY 
 
 to take the odors of boiled cabbage, fried onions and the steam of culinary 
 operations on the kitchen stove, and it is from these things, these little things., 
 that a taint goes to the cream-pots, and the good woman Avonders what is the 
 matter with the butter. The butter-makers of Pennsylvania, who manufacture 
 the celebrated Philadelphia butter, are exceedingly careful that no taints are 
 allowed to come in contact with the cream or milk in the spring-house. You 
 
504 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 cannot enter their sacred precincts with a lighted cigar, your shoes must be 
 cleansed of all impurities and you are expected to observe all the proprieties 
 that you would on entering a costly-furnished parlor. It is by attention to 
 the smallest details that they have been enabled to accomplish a grand result, 
 and put upon the table a luxury. 
 
 CAUSES AFFECTING THE CHURNING. 
 
 The food on which a cow is fed has considei'able influence, not only on 
 the quantity and quality of the butter she will yield, but on the time required 
 in churning. Generally, when the extra food given is rich in nitrogen, there 
 is less trouble in churning ; or, in other words, the butter comes quicker than 
 when such food as potatoes, distiller's slops, etc., is made the sole extra food. 
 If bran, oats and corn meal be given to the cow in connection with the pota- 
 
 FlGUBB 11. FiGUBE 12. 
 
 toes, the cream will be of better quality and will be more easily churned 
 than that made from potatoes and hay alone. It may be remarked here that 
 when neither grain nor meal is fed to cows in winter, in addition to hay, and 
 the extra feed is composed of materials of which starch, sugar and water are 
 the chief ingredients, the cream requires to be churned at a higher tempera- 
 ture than that produced from food containing a good proportion of albumi- 
 noids. There is another trouble in fall and winter that often retards the 
 churning ; the milk and cream are not kept at an even temperature. If the 
 milk is allowed to freeze and thaw, or to fall to a low temperature while being 
 set for cream there is more difficulty in getting the butter speedily. The 
 milk or cream should not be allowed to fall below 60°. 
 
 When no conveniences are had for keeping the milk at the proper tem- 
 perature while the cream is rising, in fall and winter, tolerably good results 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 505 
 
 may be obtained by scalding the milk by placing it in a pan over hot water 
 on the stove. As soon as a little " crinkle " is observed on the onter edges 
 of the thin coat of cream which rises, remove the pan to a room of moderate 
 temperature, or where the temperature does not fall below 50°, and the cream 
 will not only rise rapidly, but can generally be churned with facility. The 
 proper scalding of the milk will be easily learned by experiment. If scalded 
 too much, the amount of cream will be diminished. I do not object to pota- 
 toes being fed to cows in milk during fall and winter, but they should have 
 in addition a mess of meal daily, with all the good hay they can eat. 
 
 POWER FOR CHURlSriNG. 
 
 A great many devices from time to time have been invented for lessening 
 the labor of churning. Commencing with some of the more rude and simple 
 modes of applying power, the preceding cut (Figure 11), is an illustration. 
 
 It is simply a hickory sapling about 
 twelve or fourteen feet long, fastened 
 firmly at the butt end, while at the 
 other end is fixed a seat in which a 
 child can sit and perform the work 
 with more ease than a grown person 
 in the ordinary way. The dash of the 
 churn may be fastened at any point to 
 accommodate the spring of the pole. 
 
 Then we have the simple arrange- 
 ment of utilizing the water from small 
 streams that may happen to be conve- 
 nient to the premises. An illustration 
 of such apparatus is shown in figure 12. 
 Figure 12 is a watei'-power churn, showing the water-wheel fitting easily 
 into the box or flume at the outlet of the dam ; or it may be simf)ly placed 
 in a swift-running brook, as it does not require much power or speed. The 
 wheel should be about three feet in diameter. The power can be transmitted 
 any distance by means of two wires fastened upon j^oles with swing-trees that 
 receive a backward and forward motion from the crank of the water-wheel. 
 A correspondent of the Rural New Yorker sends to that paper the 
 directions for making one of these appliances, which may prove suggestive 
 and useful to farmers who have an opportunity of using water power for the 
 purpose named. He says : — Take a stick of timber twenty inches in length 
 and six in diameter (marked G,) (see Figure 13) secure it at the ends by iron 
 bands (similar to hub-bands on a carriage-wheel) to prevent sj^litting while 
 mortising the holes and driving the arms, to which pieces of board seven 
 inches in width and twelve or fourteen inches long must be nailed. These 
 are the paddles to the wheel, and there must be four of them. In one end of 
 the shaft there must be an iron pin, in the other a crank F, similar to the 
 
 Figure 13. 
 
606 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 crank of a grindstone. The crank must be just half as long as the play in the 
 churn. Have the end of the crank square where it is driven into the end of the 
 shaft, so as to prevent its moving in the shaft as the wheel goes round. After 
 the end of the crank is driven into the shaft, attach the other end to a piece! 
 of board two inches in width E, reaching up to cross piece C, which is made: 
 long enough to reach to the place where the churn is to sit. The center of 
 the cross piece is made to play upon an iron or hard wood pin in a groove in 
 the top of a post D, which must be set firmly in the ground, or made firml 
 some other way. At the other end of the cross piece is another stick or' 
 light piece of board B, extending downward to the top of the churn dashers, 
 and is secured by boring a hole in each end, tying them together with a good 
 strong string, and all is ready for churning. I have one of these which my 
 son fourteen years old made, after irons were ready, which does ray churning 
 in twenty minutes, when the cream is the right tem2:)erature. 
 
 When considerable quantities of cream are to be chui-ned and hand power 
 is relied upon, the following sketch and description which a correspondent 
 sends us may be useful. He says the machine was invented by a neighbor 
 
 FlGDKB 14. ' 
 
 who has used it twenty years and finds it a most convenient and labor-saving 
 appliance, and any farmer who is handy with tools can make all the parts in 
 a short time and it will run one or half a-dozen churns as easily as could be 
 wished. He describes the machine as follows (See Figure 14). A horizontal 
 shaft eighteen inches in circumference, is made to turn loosely in posts or in 
 stationary uprights at either end. In the center of the shaft is fixed a bar 
 that extends nearly to the floor, and at the lower end there is a handle of 
 convenient length for moving the bar to and fro, thus setting the machine in 
 motion. Cross bars are arranged in the shaft to which the churn dashers are 
 attached. When four churns are to be used at once, the posts should be 
 seven feet apart, and the cross bars to which the dashers are attached should 
 pass through the shaft half-way from either post to the perpendicular bar 
 which operates the machine. The churn-dasher handles must be made ten or 
 
Fraciical Dairy Husbandry 
 
 507 
 
 twelve inches longer than the ordinary handles, and with holes through the 
 top to receive a pin by which they are secured to the cross-bars, making a 
 movable joint. The cut (Figure 15) shows a mechanical contrivance to 
 lessen the labor of hand churning. The system of gearing and balance 
 wheel not only lessens the labor but produces a steadiness of motion or regu- 
 larity of stroke of the dash which is always desirable in churning. Figure 
 16 is the old-fashioned dog-churn, and probably as good in all respects as any. 
 The tread wheel should be carpeted, in order to give the dog a firm hold with 
 his toe-nails. Any carpenter can make it with no other directions than the 
 engraving affords. The plain plank treadwheel should be inclined as in the 
 engraving. 
 
 DOG AND SHEEP POWEK. 
 
 The Cortland Co. butter-makers use a machine constructed on the prin- 
 ciple as shown at figure 16, except that there is an improved gearing for 
 
 Figure Ift FigttrE 16. 
 
 running the churn. In Orange Co. horse-powers for churning are constructed 
 essentially on the same plan. Figure 17 is a vertical wheel with a rim about 
 two feet in width, on the inside of which the animal treads. It is necessary 
 to have this wheel as much as eight or ten feet in diameter. The engraving 
 gives ample insight into its mechanical construction. The Emeey machine, 
 a dog-power, constructed on the railway principle, is very much liked by 
 many, and is a cheap and efficient power. The illustration (Figure 18) shows 
 the form and manner of application. 
 
 Among the sweep powers for churning we know of nothing better than 
 the Richardson power — one of the cheapest sweep powers made, and useful 
 for many other kinds of work on the farm besides churning. The cut (Fig: 
 19) shows its general form. 
 
608 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 OVER-WORKING BUTTER AND SPOILING THE GRAIN. 
 
 A great deal of good butter is spoiled in the working. There are vast 
 quantities of butter to be found in the markets, of good color, properly 
 salted, the buttermilk expelled, and yet it has a mussy look and lardy taste. ■ 
 Consumers are often at a loss to account for it. The butter is not rancid nor i 
 has it any disagreeable odor, but it is poor, nevertheless. This butter may 
 have been made from the nicest cream, with the utmost attention to cleanli- 
 ness in every branch of its manufacture, from the drawing of the milk to its 
 packing in the firkin. The maker perhaps has expended all her knowledge 
 and every resource within reach to get a prime article, hoping for a name in 
 the market, and an advanced price for a really " tip-top " article. And when 
 the expert affirms that the butter is inferior and must be classed as second or 
 
 Figure 17. Figubk 18. 
 
 third rate, it is very disheartening, and some give up in despair of ever learn- 
 ing the " knack " of manufacturing a strictly nice grade of goods. They 
 cannot imagine why butter upon which so much care and attention has been 
 bestowed should be condemned as having a greasy look and taste. If inquiry 
 be made concei'ning the fault in manufacture, the dealer, if he be an expert, 
 will be very likely to say, " My dear sir, or madam, your butter has no 
 grain ;" but, as it is somewhat difficult to define Avhat is meant by 
 
 THE " GRAIN " OF BUTTER, 
 
 and as the manufacturer does not understand where the trouble lies, no 
 improvement is made. What is meant by the term grain as applied to butter, 
 is a waxy appearance, and the more it resembles wax in its apjjearance the 
 better the grain. When properly churned, both as to time and temperature, 
 the butter becomes firm with very little working, and is tenacious. It then 
 may be easily molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable 
 length before breaking. It has a smooth and unctuous feeling on rubbing a 
 little between the finger and thumb. When the grain is injured the butter 
 spreads like grease, and the more it resembles grease the more is the grain 
 injured. Good butter that has not been injured in the grain will not stick to 
 the knife that cuts it. Butter that has no grain is brittle, and when broken 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 509 
 
 presents a jagged surface and will not spread with that smooth, waxy appear 
 
 ance belonging to good butter. It is only when butter has this waxy coq 
 
 sistency that it preserves that rich, nutty flavor 
 
 and smell which impart so high a degree of 
 
 pleasure in eating it. So it will be seen there 
 
 is very good reason for consumers rejecting 
 
 butter that has been overworked into grease, 
 
 even though it may have all the essentials of the 
 
 best quality when taken from the churn. 
 
 IlSr WORKING BUTTEK. 
 
 the hands should not come in direct contact with 
 the butter. Gather it together with a wooden 
 butter ladle in the tray or butter bowl, turn off 
 the buttermilk and wash with fresh spring water. 
 Gash it around the whole circumference, making 
 channels lowest at either end, so that the butter- 
 milk can readily run off. Do not grind it down 
 against the tray, after the manner of tempering 
 mortar, for in this way you will be likely to 
 injure the grain. It is not well to attempt to 
 work out all the buttermilk at once. 
 
 But very little manipulation is required in 
 washing out the buttermilk; then salt with 
 pure, fine salt and set aside in a cool place for 
 twelve hours, during which time the action of 
 the salt will liberate more of the buttermilk. 
 Then work a second time, either with the ladle 
 or butter-worker, using precautions not to over- 
 work or grind the butter by rubbing it down 
 against the tray, and then the work is done and 
 the butter is ready for packing. 
 
 BUTTER-WOEKEE. 
 
 Quite a number of butter-workers have been 
 introduced from time to time, some of them 
 useful and others liable to injure the grain of 
 the butter from their peculiar construction. On 
 a previous page I have given a cut of the butter- 
 worker used largely in Orange Co. Among the 
 butter-workers of Cortland Co., N". Y., I found 
 an instrument very much like those illustrated 
 in figures 20 and 21, largely in use. They 
 appeared to be inferior to the Orange Co. machine. The subjoined cuts will 
 
510 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandrt, 
 
 illustrate some of the butter-workers that have been in use from time to time 
 (see Figures 22, 23 and 24). Figures 22 and 23 consist of a table and fluted 
 roller. The roller is made of hard wood, and being pressed over the butter 
 expels the buttermilk. It may also be made to incorporate salt with the butter. 
 A table is in some cases made with a marble top ; but it has been urged against 
 such that the acid of the buttermilk decomposes the stone, and the lime 
 becoming mixed with the butter, injures it. Hence wood, maple or oak, is 
 preferred. 
 
 The Eureka or Corbin butter-worker, is a recent invention, and from its 
 simplicity and ease of operation is a valuable addition to this class of imple- 
 ments. A common butter-bowl is placed and held securely on a small, light 
 stool, firmly against a solid rest R (see Figure 25) that protects it from break- 
 ing or springing. It may be revolved either way at will, also easily tipped 
 
 FlGUEE 20. 
 
 FiGUBE 21. 
 
 by a lever to drain olF the fluids, and as readily removed from the stool as 
 from a table, and bowls of difierent sizes may be used on the same stool. 
 The ladle, H, is attached to a pendant lever, F, G, that enables a person to 
 press directly through hard butter in all parts of the bowl without drawing 
 or sliding it ; also to cut, turn and work it in every manner desired. It is 
 light, strong and simple, everything about it is practical, with nothing to get 
 out of place or order, and it is as handily moved, washed and dried as any 
 butter bowl and ladle. The lever, E, is fastened to the slot, J, while the 
 butter is being worked, and is raised up to discharge the buttermilk from the 
 bowl as occasion requires. There is a circular iron rim fastened to the bottom 
 of the bowl which slides in an iron groove attached to the lever K, and which 
 allows the bowl to be moved round and when desired to be removed entirely 
 from the other parts of the worker. I have tested this machine for working 
 butter and am pleased with its operation. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 511 
 
 SALT. 
 
 A great many people do not understand the importance of keeping salt in 
 a dry, pure atmosphere. Of course a pure article of salt should be obtained 
 in the first jalace ; then keep it wliere it will not absorb foul gases and bad 
 odors. Salt that is allowed to get damp and is exposed in this condition to 
 the effluvia of rotten vegetables, the odors from carrion, the sink or cess-pools 
 is not fit to put into butter. Butter is often spoiled in flavor by inattention 
 to the manner in which salt is kept — allowing crumbs and other refuse matter 
 from the pantry to fall into the salt dish — taking out salt with dirty hands, 
 etc., thus leaving impurities to be gathered up and added to the butter. 
 
 HAIKS. 
 
 It may also be added that human hair is no improvement, either in the 
 flavor or quality of butter. I have seen choice samples of butter rejected on 
 account of a single hair having been discovered in it. So strong was the 
 impression that the butter was made by a dirty, shiftless person, that no 
 argument could prevail upon the customer to take it. 
 
 FiGtJBB 22. 
 
 PlGtTRE 23. 
 
 PACKING BUTTER AND BUTTER PACKAGES. 
 
 A great many people make good butter and spoil it in the packing. Prob- 
 ably there is no article of food in which fine quality is more eagerly sought 
 after than butter, and none for which a large price is more cheerfully paid. 
 It is true a good deal of butter is spoiled in the making, but it seems such a 
 wanton waste to deliberately convert a good material into grease for want 
 of a little foresight in packing, that we cannot refrain from bringing the ques- 
 tion fairly before the butter-makers of the country. Dairymen should under- 
 stand that 
 
 BUTTER WILL NOT KEEP IN EVERY KIND OP A TUB OR FIRKIN, 
 
 and he who packs butter in shabbily-made, badly-hooped tubs, does it as a 
 cheat and a Avrong to somebody. It is impossible to keep butter any length 
 of time in a leaky tub, exposed as it must be more or less to foul air and 
 odors, before it reaches the consumer. Those who make " gilt-edged " butter 
 
512 
 
 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 pay the greatest attention to packing, and a good share of its superior quality 
 (a quality which frequently sells at from seventy-five cents to a dollar per 
 pound) is due to extra packages and the extra care taken in all the details 
 while packing. • No " gilt-edged " butter is filled in firkins or pails standing 
 in the house-cellar, surrounded by decaying vegetables, in the vicinity o»j 
 soap tubs, stale beef brine, and accumulations of soap grease. Some peopl^ 
 pack and store butter in these places, and then complain because they cannot 
 get the market price on the day of sale. 
 
 A few years since a dairyman of my acquaintance, who had been partic- 
 ulai'ly unfortunate in his sales, sent for a noted butter-maker to learn the 
 secret of making a high-priced article. The man came and looked over the 
 premises, and the only advice given was, " You need a clean, sweet, Avell- 
 ventilated cellar for storing butter, and it must be used for nothing else ; 
 
 FiGTIEB 24. 
 
 FiGtJBE 25. 
 
 THEN GET OAK FIEKINS, HEAVILY HOOPED, AIR-TIGHT, 
 
 and made just as handsome as the best cooper can turn them out. You need 
 not change in your process of manufacture. This is all you have to do, and 
 I will warrant your success." These suggestions were at once adopted and 
 quick sales, large prices and heavy profits were the result. That dairy has 
 now an enviable reputation, and the butter is eagerly sought after. A dirty- 
 looking package will often lose a good sale. It should have a fresh, clean, 
 sweet appearance when it reaches the consumer, that will please the eye of 
 the most fastidious. 
 
 THE KIND OP WOOD POR PACKAGES. 
 
 There are only a few kinds of wood that are fit to pack butter in. Wood 
 of the ash is extensively used in some sections. It contains an acid very 
 objectionable for butter, and should be rejected. Spruce, pine and other gummy 
 woods are often used, but they impart a disagreeable flavor to the butter. 
 
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 513 
 
 White oak makes an excellent package, but the Avood should be thoroughly- 
 seasoned before using. If the package is to be filled at once f.r.d immediately 
 sold, a price may perhaps be obtained for it as a good article, but imless it 
 goes into immediate consumption some one finds himself cheated with rancid 
 grease. Just where the cheat comes in, and who are the guilty parties, the 
 thousands of persons who are being cheated never know. I have given on 
 previous pages cuts representing the Orange Co. packages and the Philadel- 
 phia butter package. One of the best return packages is the Wescott return 
 butter pail represented in figure 26. It is made of the best kiln-dried white 
 oak, matched and turned perfectly smooth inside and outside, oiled and 
 varnished, with extra heavy iron hoops, nicely fitted and perfectly secured 
 cover by means of galvanized ears of malleable iron, with bar, spring key and 
 galvanized hasp. It is a neat, substantial, secure and durable article. The 
 twenty-five pound Avhite oak pail furnished by the Oak Pail Manufacturing 
 Company is also a desirable article. It is designed for packing choice butter 
 for family use, and not being liable to breakage, and being made of the best 
 
 FiGUBB 26. 
 
 FiGUBE 27. 
 
 materials and in the best manner, it is to be recommended. Recently small 
 packages made after the Wescott return pail, each package holding about 
 five pounds of butter, have been introduced. Twelve of these packages are 
 placed in a box in double tiers and are thus sent to market. 
 
 The Elmere package is a Vermont invention, and consists in what may be 
 termed a follower nearly as large as the inside of the tub, with a projection 
 at tAVO opposite points that slide doAvn in grooves about an incli, and then 
 become fast by sliding into another groove running in an opposite direction. 
 The object of the foUoAver is for salt to be placed upon it in such quantity 
 as to produce a brine that Avill keep the air entirely excluded from the butter, 
 preserving it from rancidity. The article is represented in figure 27. 
 
 PREPARING FIRKINS FOR USE. 
 
 In preparing firkins and tubs for use, boiling water should be poured into 
 them and left to soak for twenty-four hours. Then fill Avith strong brine for 
 tAvo or three days, turn out and rinse with pure, cold Avater, and rub the 
 33 
 
514 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 sides with, pure fine salt. Tubs, after being fitted should be headed and 
 brine poured in at a hole in the top so as to fill all intervening spaces. Fir- 
 kins when filled may be covered with a thin piece of muslin, upon which is 
 spread a layer of fine salt, and then closed With a wooden cover. Store in a 
 clean, sweet, well-ventilated butter cellar until ready for market. Good 
 butter in good tubs, properly packed and stored, need not wait long for a 
 customer at top prices. 
 
 WHEY BUTTER. 
 
 At the fai-m dairies and among the early factories the butter taken from 
 the whey was not considered of much account beyond furnishing a kind of 
 grease for oiling the cheese. The whey was run into vats or tubs, and after 
 standing from twelve to twenty hours, or longer, the cream was taken off and 
 a sufficient quantity being obtained, it was placed in a kettle over the fire 
 and " tried out " something in the manner of preparing lard. At the farm 
 dairies it was often churned and the butter purified by heating over a fire and 
 pouring the oil from the sediment. The opinion did not at that time gener- 
 rally prevail that any thing more than a respectable kind of grease could be 
 obtained from whey cream. A few years ago, however, processes were 
 adopted for obtaining whey butter and preparing it for table use. In this 
 some factories have met Avith great success, being able to produce a quality 
 of butter that, when freshly made and nicely put up, will sell in the market 
 at the same price as the ordinary samples of butter made at farm dairies. 
 Whey butter, however, both in texture and flavor, is inferior to fancy butter 
 made from cream, and though when freshly made it may be made to pass for 
 cream butter for table use, still it does not possess long-keeping qualities and 
 should go into immediate consumption as soon as made. The following is a 
 description of the processes by which whey butter is manufactured for the 
 table. Under that entitled the hot process five hundred gallons of whey on 
 an average is said to yield twenty pounds of marktetable butter. 
 
 THE HOT PEOCESS. 
 
 In this process the whey is drawn sweet directly from the curds to a vat 
 having a copper bottom, and setting over an arch similar to those used for 
 boiling sap in sugar making. The butter works are separated from the 
 cheese manufacturing department, the arch and vat being arranged lower 
 than the cheese vat, so that the whey may be readily drawn, simply by 
 having a conducting pipe from one vat to the other. After drawing the whey 
 one gallon of acid is added for every fifty gallons of milk, if the whey is 
 sweet. If the whey is changed a less quantity of the acid will be sufficient, 
 and if the acid is not sharp one pound of fine, pure salt should be incorpo- 
 rated with it. The acid having been added in the above proportions heat is 
 immediately applied to the mass until it indicates a temperature of from 
 175® to 185" F. As the cream rises to the surface it is skimmed off and set 
 
Frautical Dairy Husbandry. 515 
 
 in a cool place until next day. It is then churned at a temperature of from 
 66° to 68°, according to the temperature of the atmosphere, and then worked 
 and salted according to the usual method of butter-making. The acid 
 is made by taking any quantity of whey after extracting the cream, heating 
 it to a boiling point, and adding a gallon of sharp, sour whey to every ten 
 gallons of boiling whey, when all the caseine and albuminous matter remain- 
 ing in the whey will collect in a mass. This is skimmed off and the whey 
 left to stand for twenty-four to forty-eight hours, when it will be ready for use. 
 
 THE COLD PROCESS. 
 
 The other process, called the Eggak, or cold process, is said to make very 
 good butter, but I am not so familiar with its operations or the quality of 
 the butter j^roduced as in the process I have first described. In the cold pro- 
 cess the whey is drawn into a zinc vat, or one having a metal bottom. This 
 vat is fifteen inches high, three feet wide and of convenient length. It sets 
 in a wooden vat with space between the two for cold water. The whey is 
 then drawn into the upper vat, and a handfull of salt added to every ten gal- 
 lons of whey. During the first two hours it is stirred thoroughly from the 
 bottom every fifteen minutes. Afterward it is left to stand quiet for about 
 twenty-four hours, when it is skimmed. The cream is then churned at a 
 temjDcratvire of about 58®. If the temperature of the cream is above 60° 
 cool it; if below 56° warm it. It is churned until the butter becomes granu- 
 lated about the size of buckwheat kernels, when it is left to stand about five 
 minutes, then let the buttermilk run ofi", and throw on cold water. Let it 
 stand until it is hard before stirring much, then rinse with cold M^ater until 
 the water runs ofi" clear, then churn it together or gather it and press the 
 water out, and salt it at the rate of one pound of salt to fourteen pounds 
 butter. Let it stand till next day and work and pack as with other butter. 
 
A.PI>EISri3IX, 
 
 DAIRY BARN. 
 
 Since writing the description of Dairy Barns, in the fore part of this volume, a 
 correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends to that paper the following plans of a 
 convenient dairy barn, which we think offer good suggestions to those who propose to 
 erect this kind of building on dairy farms. He says : — This barn was designed and is 
 now owned by D. "W. Clark, Esq., of Schuyler's Lake, N. Y., who is one of the leading 
 dairymen of Otsego County. The principal advantages attained in its construction are a 
 dry, light and well ventilated stable for cows, convenience in feeding and caring for tlie 
 same, ample storage for all the forage needed during the winter, besides room for all the 
 grain raised on a lai-ge dairy farm ; also depositories for manure, so arranged that it is 
 protected from the washings of heavy rains without incurring the risk of injuring tlie 
 health of stock or rotting the limbei-s which support the stable floor, as is the case where 
 the manure cellars are directly under the stable. 
 
 By referring to the engravings, the reader will understand how these advantages 
 are secured. The basement walls are built on a foundation of stone, hammered into 
 the soil, and are twenty inches thick, of quarry stone, laid in lime mortar, and are 
 eight feet high ; the sills are bedded in mortar, and are of yellow pine. The cross 
 sills are supported by two cast-iron columns (set on a thick stone, four feet square) under 
 each bent. Tiie piers under main sills are two by four feet, of quarry stone. There are 
 six bents in the frame, the posts of which are braced and pinned at both top and bottom. 
 The feed holes or traps are directly beneath the cupolas, which, together with the 
 windows in rear of stables, are hung on hinges, and may be swung up to secure perfect 
 ventilation. That portion of the basement devoted to stabling is thirty by seventy feet. 
 Total area of building, fifty-two by seventy ; has capacity for stabling forty-two cows, 
 together with feed, horse-power machinery for cutting feed, &c. The root cellar is near 
 the barn, where there is a stream of water convenient for washing roots and watering 
 stock. The siding is of inch pine, planed and matched, and thoroughly painted. Total 
 cost, $3,000. 
 
 SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION. 
 
 Mr. Anson Bartlett of Ohio, in an address before the American Dairymen's Asso- 
 ciation, gives the following ; 
 
 It is well understood by practical cheese-makers that, in a temperature of 65° or 
 below, there is very little diflBculty in preserving milk, providing ordinary care is used to 
 keep all utensils used for or about it clean and sweet, and that while such a temperature 
 is maintained the merest tyro can produce a fair article of cheese,, but that when the 
 temperature of the atmosphere rises above that point, ascending as it does in some parls 
 
Practical Dairy Evsbanvry. 
 
Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 
 
 519 
 
 End View oi" Feasee-wobk.— The ends or outside bents have walls clear across under sills, instead of iron 
 columns. I, I, Iron columns. Hight of basement, 8 feet ; hight of post from basement to rafters, 
 16 feet ; roof, one-half pitch. 
 
 Basement.— A, alley. 8x70 feet ; B, stall floor, A^x 70 feet ; C, ditch or drop, 14 inches wide ; D, space or 
 walk ; B, stanchions ; F, manure cellar ; G, piers, 2x4 feet ; H, columns under cross sills ; W, win- 
 dows ; I, doora. 
 
520 
 
 Afjpendix. 
 
 TABLE SHOWING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION. 
 
 Stations. 
 
 Orleans County.Crafts- 
 bury, Vt 
 
 Chittenden Co., Bur- 
 lington, Vt 
 
 Kutlund County, Bran- 
 don, Vt 
 
 Hampden Co., Spring 
 field, Mass 
 
 Berkshire County,Wil 
 liams College, Mass 
 
 Albany, ~1 
 
 Orange Co., New- 
 burgh, 
 
 Oneida Co., South 
 Trenton, 
 
 Oneida Co., Clin- 
 ton, 
 
 Jefferson Co., The- 
 resa, 
 
 Madison Co , Onei- 
 da, 
 
 Oneida Co., Utrca, 
 Oswego Co., Os- 
 wego 
 
 Monroe Co., Roch- 
 ester, 
 
 Erie Co., BufTalo,. 
 
 Chatauqua County 
 Jamestown J 
 
 Ashtabula County, 
 Austinburg,. ... 
 
 Columbiana Co. , 
 E. Fairfield 
 
 Geauga Co., Welsh- 
 field 
 
 Cuyahoga County, 
 Cleveland, 
 
 Huron Co., Nor- \ 
 walk, 
 
 Wayne Co., Woos- 
 ter, 
 
 Erie Co , Kelley's 
 Island, 
 
 Lake County Mad- 
 ison, J 
 
 D3KalbCo,Sand-l 
 wich 
 
 La Salle Co., Otta- 
 wa, 
 
 Winnebago Co . 
 Winnebago,.. . . '. 
 
 MoHenry Co., Ma- 
 rengo, 
 
 Kane Co., Aurora,, 
 Monroe County, Mon- 
 roe. Mich 
 
 Ingham Co. A2;ricultu- 
 ral College, Mich.... 
 
 Cincinnati, Ohio, 
 
 Louisville, Ky 
 
 Montgomery County, 
 Clai-ksville, Tenn... 
 
 90 
 87 
 AG 
 103 
 96 
 96 
 99 
 91 
 9G 
 93 
 98 
 
 90 
 95 
 97 
 97 
 93 
 9.3 
 94 
 95 
 91 
 98 
 93 
 95 
 96 
 104 
 
 96 
 
 99 
 
 102 
 
 CD 
 
 P 
 
 > 
 
 3 
 
 3 3 
 o 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 og 
 
 g 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 p 
 
 &s 
 
 
 >^ 
 
 3 
 
 ^H 
 
 ~ >^ 
 
 -> 
 
 sl 
 
 = 3 
 
 „. 3 
 
 — -c 
 
 P 
 
 cii 
 
 g. 
 
 
 g^ 
 
 S W 
 
 p s 
 
 6 ~_ 
 
 3 
 
 Y' 6 
 
 3 " 
 
 
 c 
 
 t] 
 
 
 .-• 2' 
 
 Mean Temperature 
 
 each of four 
 
 months. 
 
 3 W 
 o c. 
 
 09 
 
 —28 
 —29 
 —22 
 —21 
 -18 
 —18 
 -15 
 22 
 
 —20 
 —27 
 —26 
 
 —15 
 —10 
 
 — 9 
 —17 
 —14 
 
 — 8 
 —12 
 —11 
 -13 
 -10 
 —13 
 -10 
 —26 
 —25 
 —28 
 -17 
 —20 
 
 — 4 
 —22 
 —12 
 -10 
 
 
 
 40.3 
 48. 
 
 45.8 
 
 46.5 
 
 44.5 
 
 50.5 
 
 50.3 
 
 44. 
 
 48. 
 
 44.5 
 
 46.2 
 
 45.75 
 
 47.3 
 
 48. 
 
 46. 
 
 47.75 
 
 43.2 
 
 48.8 
 
 49.5 
 
 48.5 
 
 48.8 
 
 49. 
 
 49.2 
 
 4'5.2 
 
 47.5 
 
 44. 
 
 45.5 
 
 46.5 
 
 48.75 
 
 45.8 
 
 55. 
 
 54.5 
 
 56.75 
 
 59.1 
 
 62 5 
 
 65.5 
 
 65.5 
 
 62. 
 
 70. 
 
 70.2 
 
 65. 
 
 68. 
 
 64. 
 
 65.5 
 
 06.5 
 
 64. 
 
 46.2 
 
 66.5 
 
 67. 
 
 66. 
 
 66. 
 
 68.5 
 
 eas 
 
 67.5 
 
 71. 
 
 69.8 
 
 72. 
 
 67.75 
 
 68.75 
 
 68. 
 
 66.2 
 
 67.5 
 
 67.2 
 
 66. 
 
 74. 
 
 75. 
 
 73. 
 
 £0.7 
 
 24.5 
 
 25. 
 
 24.5 
 
 25.5 
 
 31.2 
 
 .31. 
 
 25. 
 
 24. 
 
 23.5 
 
 25. 
 
 27. 
 
 27.5 
 
 28. 
 
 25.75 
 
 28.75 
 
 25.5 
 
 30. 
 
 .30. 
 
 25.5 
 
 27.7 
 
 29.8 
 
 30 5 
 
 23. 
 
 25.75 
 
 26. 
 
 22.2 
 
 23.5 
 
 28.5 
 
 25.2 
 
 37. 
 
 34.5 
 
 40.5 
 
 45.5 
 
 47.5 
 
 52. 
 
 50.2 
 
 49. 
 
 57.5 
 
 54.5 
 
 44.5 
 
 50.5 
 
 48.2 
 
 50.5 
 
 44. 
 
 51. 
 
 48. 
 
 49. 
 
 52. 
 
 54. 
 
 52.5 
 
 52. 
 
 53.5 
 
 54.5 
 
 52. 
 
 52.5 
 
 52.5 
 
 51.5 
 
 52. 
 
 51. 
 
 53. 
 
 56.5 
 
 50. 
 
 58. 
 
 58.2 
 
 54.6 
 
 38.1 
 
 40. 
 
 43. 
 
 44.5 
 
 43.5 
 
 46.5 
 
 49.5 
 
 43.4 
 
 44.5 
 
 42.5 
 
 46. 
 
 45 5 
 
 45. 
 
 45.5 
 
 41.5 
 
 44. 
 
 46.5 
 
 43. 
 
 46.5 
 
 46.5 
 
 44.5 
 
 48.5 
 
 43. 
 
 41. 
 
 42.5 
 
 41. 
 
 44.5 
 
 44. 
 
 42.5 
 
 42.5 
 
 49. 
 
 49. 
 
 51.5 
 
 44.09 
 
 CO. 
 
 40.73 
 
 62. 
 
 40.42 
 
 65. 
 
 36.25 
 
 65.5 
 
 35.56 
 
 64.5 
 
 38.81 
 
 68.5 
 
 38.82 69. 
 
 55.25 
 43.67 
 40.71 
 62.55 
 
 44.00 
 
 ;k.88 
 
 44.11 
 50.34 
 43.39 
 59.44 
 51.88 
 40.34 
 39.81 
 
 31.07 
 46.54 
 35.75 
 38.91 
 35.17 
 43.92 
 31.86 
 39.52 
 28.12 
 41.31 
 52.31 
 48.49 
 
 64.5 
 
 64. 
 
 64. 
 
 62.2 
 
 66.5 
 
 66. 
 
 66.5 
 
 63.5 
 
 67. 
 
 69. 
 
 70.5 
 
 67. 
 
 70. 
 
 68.5 
 
 66.5 
 
 67. 
 
 67.5 
 
 66.5 
 
 73. 
 
 72.2 
 
 72.5 
 
 66. 
 68. 
 
 72. 
 73. 
 69. 
 
 72.1 
 
 77. 
 
 72.5 
 
 69. 
 
 71. 
 
 70.5 
 
 68.5 
 
 69.6 
 
 73. 
 
 73.5 
 
 72. 
 
 71.5 
 
 73. 
 
 73.2 
 
 74. 
 
 73. 
 
 76. 
 
 75. 
 
 71.7 
 
 75. 
 
 74.75 
 
 74. 
 
 75. 
 
 76. 
 
 73.2 
 
 73.5 
 
 78.3 
 
 78.5 
 
 77.5 
 
 61.3 
 66. 
 
 68.2 
 
 63.2 
 
 62. 
 
 70. 
 
 67. 
 
 59.2 
 
 67. 
 
 68. 
 
 65. 
 
 66.7 
 
 66.5 
 
 67.5 
 
 68. 
 
 70. 
 
 71. 
 
 64. 
 
 71. 
 
 67. 
 
 70. 
 
 73.5 
 
 72. 
 
 68.4 
 
 68. 
 
 69.5 
 
 68.5 
 
 65. 
 
 68. 
 
 68.5 
 
 66.5 
 
 74.3 
 
 73. 
 
 73.5 
 
 52.6 
 
 54.2 
 
 57.6 
 
 GO. 5 
 
 58. 
 
 61.4 
 
 68. 
 
 64. 
 
 61. 
 
 55. 
 
 62. 
 
 58.4 
 
 58. 
 
 58. 
 
 60.5 
 
 59. 
 
 58. 
 
 60. 
 
 61. 
 
 62. 
 
 60. 
 
 63. 
 
 63.5 
 
 64.6 
 
 59.5 
 
 62. 
 
 60. 
 
 59. 
 
 57. 
 
 59.2 
 
 57. 
 
 67.3 
 
 66.5 
 
 68.5 
 
 15.66 
 15.77 
 17.72 
 11.42 
 16.73 
 20.04 
 17.20 
 24.77 
 17.15 
 9.00 
 32.29 
 
 13.02 
 12.57 
 15.42 
 18.30 
 13.77 
 28.64 
 18.01 
 18.96 
 18 88 
 
 13.69 
 1.5.53 
 17.40 
 13.38 
 17.77 
 24.94 
 16.55 
 18.81 
 10.71 
 15.82 
 23.17 
 15.49 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1863-64 
 
 186.3-66 
 
 1864-66 
 
 1866 
 
 1866 
 
 1866 
 
 1866 
 
 1858-63 
 
 1863-64 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1858-66 
 
 1864 
 
 1863-64 
 
 1866 
 
 1858-64 
 
 1857-66 
 
 1866 
 
 1864 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1857-58 
 
 1864-66 
 
 1857-66 
 
 1858-66 
 
 1866 
 
 1866 
 
 1863-66 
 
 1864-66 
 
 1857-66 
 
 1864-66 
 
 1864-66 
 
Appendix. 
 
 521 
 
 of our country to 98° or 100°, tlie real troubles and tlifficnlties of a cheese-maker begin to 
 be experienced ; and tainted milk, that worst of all forms of milk, is met with, I believe, 
 only when the thermometer nuiiks a mean temperature for the day of over 70\ 
 
 The preceding table, prepared with care, and compiled with a great deal of labor, 
 shows the highest temperature, the lowest degree, mean annual temperature, mean 
 temperature of summer, mean temperature of winter (counting four months, June^July, 
 August and September, as summer, and four months, December, January, February and 
 Marcii, as winter), the mean temperature of two spring mouths, the mean of two fall 
 months, tlie mean«annual rain fall, the mean temperature of each of the four months, 
 June, July, August and September, and the mean rain of all these four warmest months, 
 at some thirty-four different stations, beginning in tlie Northeast part of Vermont and 
 Western Massachusetts, extending through New York, Nortiierii Ohio, Southern Mich- 
 igan and in the Northern part of Illinois, one station in Cincinnati, in Southern Ohio, 
 Louisville, Ky., and Clarksville, Tennessee. 
 
 COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF MILK IN GALLOSiS, CARRIED ON THE ERIE RAILWAY, FOR 
 
 THE YEARS 1861, 1863, 1863, 1864 and 1865. 
 
 January.... 
 Febriiai-y.. 
 
 March 
 
 A pril 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September . 
 
 October 
 
 November . 
 December. 
 
 Total 5,967,770 
 
 1862, do 
 
 186S, do 
 
 1861, do 
 
 1865. do 
 
 1862. 
 
 389,085 
 372,297 
 448,525 
 501,000 
 613.992 
 641,877 
 689,915 
 652,975 
 556.050 
 509,107 
 407,192 
 394,920 
 
 6,180.537 
 
 1863. 
 
 398,295 
 384,917 
 409,755 
 550,722 
 715,500 
 780,853 
 782,845 
 796,092 
 671,995 
 604,673 
 492,992 
 423,805 
 
 7,078,455 
 
 1864. 
 
 393,995 
 
 413,277 
 521,430 
 582,657 
 755,087 
 815,975 
 808,065 
 780,577 
 640,587 
 611.343 
 516,920 
 456,825 
 
 7,296,740 
 
 1865. 
 
 432,337 
 410,687 
 540,902 
 630,865 
 809,195 
 935,972 
 941,667 
 871,332 
 733,760 
 640,753 
 528,470 
 490,256 
 
 7,956.189 
 
 EECAPITULATIGN'. 
 
 1861, total gallons e.aRtmn 
 
 1Rfi2 An ' O,9b7,770 
 
 ^**"'- "^"^ 6,180,537 
 
 7,078,455 
 
 7,296,740 
 
 7,956,189 
 
 DAIRY PRODUCT OP THE STATE OF OHIO AND THAT OP HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y. 
 
 The statement is made on the authority of the Ohio Farmer that for the past ten years 
 there lias been a gradual decline in the dairy products of that State. The statistics given 
 show that in 1860 there was a larger amount of cheese and butter made in the State thau 
 in 1868. These statistics are as follows : 
 
 OHIO DAIRY PRODUCT. 
 
 
 Pounds Butter. 
 
 Po'nds Cheese. 
 
 
 Pounds Butter. 
 
 Po'nds Cheese. 
 
 1860 
 
 38.440,498 
 35,442,858 
 34,065,629 
 31.121,275 
 31,141,876 
 
 24,816.424 
 20,637,253 
 20,752,097 
 19,1.30,750 
 18,097,095 
 
 1865 
 
 32,4,50,139 
 36,344,608 
 34,8.33,445 
 37,005,378 
 
 
 1861 
 
 1866 
 
 
 1862 
 
 1863 
 
 1867;;;;;;;;;;:;;;;;;;; 
 
 19,985;486 
 
 1864 
 
 
 17,814,599 
 
 HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y., DAIRY PRODUCT. 
 
 1864 
 
 1865 
 
 1866.... 
 
 Pounds Butter Po'nds Cheese 
 
 492,673 
 313,7.55 
 232,961 
 
 16,767,999 
 16,808.,S,52 
 18,172,913 
 
 1867. 
 ISfiS. 
 
 18:9. 
 
 Pounds Butter. Po'nds Cheese 
 
 204,.3g5 
 241,682 
 204,634 
 
 16,772.031 
 15,7.34.920 
 15,570,487 
 
522 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Price got for making .... 
 
 « " a ^ 
 
 th O 1-1 1-1 
 
 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 Ot-I 
 
 T— 1 
 
 - « ie' . ej c5 
 " • 00 
 
 •^\« : \^^ 
 
 . COt-N . CO©? 
 
 T-l . 
 TH CJ O'i 
 
 Pounds of milk to one of 
 
 9.74 
 9.8 
 
 9.8575 
 
 '9.3 " 
 
 9.67 
 
 9.975 
 
 9.885 
 9.78 
 
 
 Pounds of milk to one of 
 
 i> 
 
 
 
 t- 
 
 
 
 ; OS : ; ; ; ; ; 
 
 : ; : r ; ; 
 
 
 Percent, of shrinkage.. 
 
 i 00 • • • '• '. '. 
 
 
 Average weight dry 
 
 CO tH CO • ■* »o •' • 
 
 10 100 • »o 00 • • 
 
 • • • CO CO 
 
 • • • CO CO 
 
 . • • T— 1 
 
 Size of cheese 
 
 15&18 
 
 15 & 9 
 
 16 inches 
 
 15«fcl0 
 
 20 
 
 15 & 22 
 20&15 
 
 18 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 
 15 
 15 
 
 
 Average price per pound 
 
 ^\ a '. : loosooio^oco 
 CO .^.. OS , cojoiocoj>co coos 
 CO cd»d' -^ . loioco'ioioco £>ic 
 
 r-' TH r-l . T-l . T-l T-l 1-1 T-l tH T-l T-l T-l 
 
 Pounds of cured cheese. 
 
 OS 0-*0 , (M CO CO IC CO CO CO T-l OS 
 00 Oi-lt- t» CO ?COT-llC-^t- iOO 
 '^^ ^,''^<^„ ®>, *2 CO__CO_lO^O\00_^C5 OS OS 
 
  
 
 t- 
 
 w 
 
 
 Gallons of milk 
 
 186,135 
 109,574 
 
 212,083 
 313,739 
 206,324 
 
 273,801 
 
 
 Pounds of milk 
 
 1,192,740 
 2,519,228 
 
 1,408,892 
 
 2,V2'5,i45 
 2,023,373 
 3,011,817 
 
 1,847,830 
 1,837,750 
 
 
 Average number of cows 
 
 00 T-l 10 • JO -OO -o • coo 
 2 £;?>; ■ <^ 2 •S'^ -^ • '^^ 
 
 ^ COlO- ^ -OOIO-OO- £-CO 
 
 Whole number of cows. . 
 
 S £: "^ ^ '^ cocoGo -oo 00 
 2 S":S <^ S- csoo-oo CO1-1 
 ■* 00 -co ■Tti io OS CO • OS T-l 00 J> 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 Hi 
 
 Summit County.. 
 Fowler's Mills, 
 
 Geauga Co. . .. 
 Bainbridge, do. . 
 Thomson, do.. 
 Huntington, Lo- 
 
 raine Co 
 
 Mecca, Trumbull 
 
 Co 
 
 CI arid on, Geauga 
 
 Co 
 
 Auburn, do.. 
 Troy, do. . 
 Huntsburg, do. . 
 
 3-eauga Co 
 
 Leroy, Lake Co. 
 Cliautauqua Co., 
 
 N. Y 
 
 Arkwright, do. . 
 
 O . 
 BiJ 
 
 i2! 
 
 Twinsburg 
 
 Bartlett's 
 
 Slhanliope's 
 
 Smith's 
 
 J. M. Clark's.... 
 
 Slia.vv'fi 
 
 
 
 Armstrong's. .. . 
 Cliester X Roads 
 
 Carter's 
 
 Sinclairville 
 
Appendix. 
 
 523 
 
 CHEESE ST^-TISTICS. 
 
 The following tables in relation to the product of cheese made at different factories of 
 New York and the price at which it sold-going over a series of years from 1863 to lb71- 
 wiU be found useful. They are taken from the official reports of the factories sent tothe 
 Secretary of the American Dairymen's Association, and printed in the annual transactions 
 of that Society fi'om year to year : 
 
 CONDENSED KEPOKTS. 
 
 The following Table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese, average 
 mice, fnd averfige pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the several factories 
 from 'which full reports have been received for the year 1864 : 
 
 Name of factory. 
 
 McLean 
 
 Adams Cheese 
 
 Blodgett Mills 
 
 GUbert Mills 
 
 Oneida Cheese 
 
 Hart 
 
 Oneida Cheese 
 
 Roberts' 
 
 Wood worth '3 
 
 Higginsville 
 
 Peckaport 
 
 Frankfort • • : 
 
 Herkimer County Union 
 
 Manns ville 
 
 Parker's 
 
 Center Brook 
 
 C. H. Curtiss' 
 
 Decatur • .••;;••• 
 
 VVallkill Creamery Association 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 Week's 
 
 Daniels' 
 
 Holmesville 
 
 Miller's « 
 
 Collins 
 
 Hawleyton 
 
 Coal Creek 
 
 Stevens 
 
 Charleston 
 
 Nelson 
 
 West Schuyler 
 
 Springfield Center 
 
 Mile Strip 
 
 West Exeter 
 
 Brookfleld 
 
 Orwell 
 
 North Litchfield 
 
 Deansville 
 
 Deerfield and Marcy 
 
 Stanley's 
 
 Scriba 
 
 East Berkshire 
 
 Ingraham & Hustis' 
 
 Whitesto wn 
 
 Turin 
 
 Sears' 
 
 Loraine 
 
 Brown's 
 
 Canton 
 
 B. N. Carrier's 
 
 Westcott's 
 
 Location and County. 
 
 McLean, Tompkins 
 
 Adams, JelTerson 
 
 Cortlandville, Cortiand 
 
 Gilbert Mills, Oswego 
 
 Oneida, Madison 
 
 Oneida Lake, Madison 
 
 Oneida, Madison 
 
 Floyd, Oneida 
 
 Yorkshire, Cattaraugus 
 
 Higginsville, Oneida 
 
 Eaton, Madison 
 
 Frankfort, Herkimer 
 
 Little Falls, Herkimer 
 
 Mannsville, Jefferson 
 
 Ward well, Jefferson 
 
 Otego, Otsego 
 
 Waterville, Om ida 
 
 Decatur, Otsego 
 
 Middletown, Orange 
 
 Barber's Corners, Jefferson.. 
 
 Verona, Oneida 
 
 McDonough, Chenango 
 
 Holmesville, do 
 
 Consiableville, Lewis 
 
 Collins, Erie 
 
 Hawleyton, Broome 
 
 Coal Creek, Herkimer 
 
 Lowville, Lewis 
 
 Charleston, Montgomery 
 
 Nelson, Madison 
 
 West Schuyler, Herkimer.... 
 
 Springfield Center, Otsego... 
 
 Fenner, Madison 
 
 West Exeter, Otsego 
 
 Brookfleld, Madison 
 
 Orwell, Oswego 
 
 North Litchfield, Herkimer.. 
 
 Deansville, Oneida 
 
 Marcy, Oneida 
 
 Adams, Jefferson 
 
 Scriba, Oswego 
 
 Franklin, Vermont 
 
 Adnms, Jefferson 
 
 Whitestown, Oneida 
 
 Turin, Lewis 
 
 Cuyler, Cortland 
 
 Loraine, Jefferson 
 
 Columbus, Chenango 
 
 Canton, St. Lawrence 
 
 Average 
 
 number of 
 
 cows. 
 
 Am'nt of 
 
 c'd cheese 
 
 made in 
 
 pounds. 
 
 Watertown, Jefferson. 
 
 937 
 TOO 
 290 
 3o0 
 
 200 
 i20 
 245 
 
 850 
 475 
 460 
 600 
 300 
 
 '256 
 600 
 400 
 
 ■536 
 500 
 400 
 580 
 851 
 265 
 475 
 760 
 335 
 575 
 550 
 300 
 360 
 500 
 200 
 250 
 375 
 275 
 
 1,032 
 400 
 400 
 
 too 
 
 600 
 600 
 730 
 770 
 400 
 375 
 
 ■466 
 318 
 
 302,084 
 142.518 
 
 71,800 
 110,465 
 119,346 
 
 65,422 
 174,848 
 
 " 124,284 
 
 65,776 
 
 284,543 
 
 191,702 
 
 161,980 
 
 162.000 
 
 72,010 
 
 21,945 
 
 61,140 
 
 207,634 
 
 73,100 
 
 90,401 
 
 173,691 
 
 149,131 
 
 114,246 
 
 182,111 
 
 249,008 
 
 68,660 
 
 176,000 
 
 207,121 
 
 98,101 
 
 199,884 
 
 196,916 
 
 137,866 
 
 122,105 
 
 172,894 
 
 64,999 
 
 72,567 
 
 127,275 
 
 83,094 
 
 295,115 
 
 134,050 
 
 100,744 
 
 101,539 
 
 142,518 
 
 204,025 
 
 206,a33 
 
 206,897 
 
 106,000 
 
 114,429 
 
 68,032 
 
 126,625 
 
 91,639 
 
 21.90 
 21.29 
 21.14 
 21.75 
 24.25 
 21.70 
 21.70 
 21.33 
 20.07 
 18.80 
 20.00 
 24.00 
 23.09 
 22.70 
 19.68 
 
 2i!25 
 22.00 
 
 Av'e price 
 
 Av'e lbs. 
 
 per ft., in 
 
 milk for 
 
 cents and 
 
 one cured 
 
 fractions. 
 
 cheese. 
 
 
 9.60 
 
 23.09 
 
 9.95 
 
 21.00 
 
 10.12 
 
 18.96 
 
 10.10 
 
 13.32 
 
 9.87 
 
 21.42 
 
 10.-30 
 
 21.05 
 
 9.94 
 
 22.17 
 
 
 23.00 
 
 9.51 
 
 21.81 
 
 9.75 
 
 20.50 
 
 9.91 
 
 21.23 
 
 9.43 
 
 22.43 
 
 9.88 
 
 23.06 
 
 10.01 
 
 21.50 
 
 9.85 
 
 25.00 
 
 9.23 
 
 22.54 
 
 10.18 
 
 
 9.50 
 
 2i!68 
 
 10.26 
 
 21.31 
 
 9.59 
 
 • 19.50 
 
 9.75 
 
 20.62 
 
 9.80 
 
 22.77 
 
 9.64 
 
 20.73 
 
 9.85 
 
 21.80 
 
 
 18.80 
 
 10.00 
 
 21.60 
 
 10.16 
 
 22.25 
 
 9.84 
 
 19.69 
 
 9.78 
 
 9.71 
 9.97 
 9.85 
 
 10.07 
 8.31 
 
 10.00 
 9.90 
 
 10.38 
 
 10.26 
 9.90 
 9.35 
 
 10.00 
 9.95 
 
 10.05 
 9.58 
 9.93 
 9.72 
 9.64 
 9.76 
 9.59 
 9.52 
 
524 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 The following table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera J 
 price, and average pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the seS factoS 
 Irom which full reports have been received for ihe year 1865 • idcioues 
 
 Name of Factobx. 
 
 Whitesb'iro 
 
 Willow Grove. 
 
 Location and Countt. 
 
 Whitesboro. 
 Trenton, 
 
 Oneida, 
 do . 
 
 chSfe:;::::::::::;:;::::::::-:- g^lf^dPatent, do 
 
 Foster's 
 
 Weeks' 
 
 Rathbun's 
 
 Herkimer County Union 
 
 Starkville 
 
 West Schuyler 
 
 Herkimer 
 
 Oneida 
 
 Lamunion'& C., No. Z..... 
 
 Hunt's 
 
 House ville , \ 
 
 High Market ',\ 
 
 Millers 
 
 Hall's ;.■;;; 
 
 Rees' 
 
 Barker's .'..'.' 
 
 SouthvUie 
 
 Olin's ■.;■.■, 
 
 Volney Center 
 
 Prattville 
 
 Gilbert's Mill 
 
 East Sandy Creek 
 
 Pans, do 
 
 Ourhamville, do . 
 Verona, do 
 
 Stittville, do 
 
 Little Palls, Herkimer..'! 
 Starkville, do 
 
 West Schuyler, do ..'.'.'. 
 
 Herkimer, do 
 
 Oneida Castle, Madison . . 
 Stockbridge. do 
 
 Hubbardsville, do .. 
 
 Houseville, Lewis.... 
 
 High Market. do 
 
 Constableville, do 
 
 Barnes' Corners, do 
 
 Martlnsburgh, do ... 
 
 Richville, St. Lawrence. 
 
 Sduthville, do ... 
 
 Canton, do 
 
 Volney Center, Oswego! ! ! 
 
 Prattville, do . 
 
 Gilbert's Mills, do 
 
 Average 
 number of 
 
 cows 
 
 Am'nt of 
 
 c'd cheese 
 
 made in 
 
 pounds. 
 
 ^ast feandy creek E. Sandy Creek, do 
 
 PdHcer s. Wardwell, Jefferso 
 
 Rfnf"i"'j?'^^-; Henderson. do 
 
 Bunfoy&Co.'s Loraine, 
 
 F"',o" v-^---, Watertown, 
 
 Ingrahani & Co.'s lAdams. 
 
 Cayiidutta 
 
 Charleston Pou 
 
 Jr Corners. 
 
 Springfield Center ,. 
 
 Smith's 
 
 Center Brook ! 
 
 McLean Association 
 
 Preeville Union 
 
 Burnham's 
 
 Canadawa 
 
 Coon's (4) 
 
 Throopsville 
 
 Simpson's 
 
 Beattie's ! ! ! ! ! 
 
 Holmesville !!!!! 
 
 Brown's 
 
 Mai lie 
 
 Michigan Creamery..!!!!!! 
 
 waiikiii ; 
 
 Worcester Co. Association 
 
 East Berkshire 
 
 Mason s 
 
 Bartlett's 
 
 Baker's Dairy !.'.' 
 
 do 
 
 do 
 
 Adams, do 
 
 B'onda, Montgomery...!" 
 
 Charlest'n 4 Cor., do 
 
 Spring. Center, Otsego. . . . 
 
 West Exeter, do . 
 
 Otego, do . . ' 
 
 McLean, Tompkins 
 
 Freeville, do . 
 
 Sinclairville, Chautauqua! 
 
 Ark Wright, do 
 
 Mina& Sherman, do 
 
 Throopsville, Cayuga 
 
 New Hudson, Allegany. 
 
 Trnxton, Cortland 
 
 Holmesville, Chenango... 
 
 Columbus, do 
 
 Maine, Broome ., 
 
 Middletown, Orange .. 
 
 Middletown. do ! 
 
 VVarren, Massachusetts..!! 
 East Berkshire, Vermont.. 
 Richmond, do 
 
 Fowler's Mills, Ohio ! 
 
 Fairfield, Michigan 
 
 600 
 
 206.567 
 
 6S8 
 
 275,270 
 
 432 
 
 168,592 
 
 600 
 
 169,71 J 
 
 250 
 
 74,146 
 
 500 
 
 174,110 
 
 650 
 
 206,000 
 
 580 
 
 226,017 
 
 580 
 
 168,037 
 
 1,000 
 
 401,884 
 
 490 
 
 190,538 
 
 525 
 
 191.681 
 
 350 
 
 118,171 
 
 400 
 
 135.552 
 
 800 
 
 257.029 
 
 460 
 
 148,981 
 
 750 
 
 261,364 
 
 5fi0 
 
 125,752 
 
 150 
 
 .58,680 
 
 640 
 
 181,465 
 
 100 
 
 45,060 
 
 354 
 
 106,227 
 
 200 
 
 46,886 
 
 400 
 
 116,1.54 
 
 340 
 
 131,042 
 
 1,000 
 
 292,494 
 
 400 
 
 140, 18;} 
 
 135 
 
 66,847 
 
 800 
 
 220,865 
 
 ITO 
 
 42,453 
 
 875 
 
 262,800 
 
 845 
 
 323,436 
 
 600 
 
 ]83,r,84 
 
 443 
 
 141,130 
 
 500 
 
 182,951 
 
 100 
 
 30.696 
 
 1,300 
 
 566,211 
 
 650 
 
 237,836 
 
 793 
 
 186.9,50 
 
 650 
 
 187,909 
 
 1,350 
 
 4911,000 
 
 450 
 
 125.000 
 
 300 
 
 77,198 
 
 600 
 
 222,453 
 
 0.50 
 
 219,0.34 
 
 500 
 
 179,206 
 
 200 
 
 39.560 
 
 
 92,000 
 
 
 87,ei86 
 
 450 
 
 ].31,.379 
 
 800 
 
 233,351 
 
 80 
 
 29,600 
 
 071 
 
 255,.S90 
 
 46 
 
 29,440 
 
 Av'e price Av'e lbs. 
 per »., in I milk for 
 cents and one cured 
 fractions, cheese, 
 
 27,756 
 
 17.25 
 16.12 
 
 ]5!96 
 16,00 
 15.89 
 16.27 
 16.50 
 
 ]6!66 
 16.05 
 16.09 
 16.00 
 15.43 
 15.60 
 15.. ■)8 
 16.01 
 14.55 
 15.41 
 14.50 
 15.17 
 15.25 
 15.00 
 14.70 
 15.25 
 14.64 
 15.25 
 
 16!25 
 
 15!66 
 15.61 
 15.60 
 15.12 
 15.75 
 17.45 
 
 10.05 
 9.75 
 9.42 
 9.53 
 10.43 
 9.99 
 9.68 
 9.91 
 9.90 
 9.61 
 0.99 
 9.79 
 9.74 
 9.91 
 9.50 
 9.21 
 9.35 
 9.63 
 9.29 
 9.43 
 9.45 
 9.44 
 9.87 
 
 10.00 
 9.84 
 
 10.44 
 9.87 
 9.99 
 
 10.03 
 9.73 
 
 10.10 
 9.81 
 
 10.00 
 
 10.64 
 
 10.02 
 
 9.77 
 
 10.10 
 
 9,452,567 
 
 17!(;6 
 
 15.93 
 
 9.78 
 9.88 
 9.78 
 
 15!66 
 
 16.07 
 
 15.25 
 
 16.00 
 
 15.50 , 
 
 16.00 
 
 9!69 
 9.82 
 9.84 
 9.66 
 9.75 
 
 15., S3 
 ^7.00 
 
 l()!i7 
 9.50 
 
 15.60 
 16.60 
 
 9.80 
 
 15.76 
 
 9.81 
 
 The following Table gives the number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera-e nrice 
 
 average pounds of milk to one of cured clieese and averncrp wt;^ ,f= r ^^ l^ ' 
 
 . several Factories, Iro.n which full Eeports haveS Scdved.'JS'the^ear' ImT 
 
 Name of Factory. 
 
 Whitesboro 
 
 A. nine's 
 
 Roberts' , 
 
 Dorn's 
 
 Chuckery , 
 
 Weeks' 
 
 Cedarville 
 
 First National 
 
 Lamunion & Clark's .Stockbridge, Madison 
 
 &"'^'i^.- Hubbardsville, do 
 
 g^^celsior Brookfleld, do 
 
 ••^^P^re I Florida, Montgomery.. 
 
 LOCTIOJf AND COTJNTT. 
 
 Whitesboro, Oneida . 
 
 North Gage, do 
 
 Floyd, 
 
 Ava, 
 
 Paris, 
 
 Verona, .. 
 
 Cedarville, Herkimer! 
 Frankfort, do 
 
 do 
 do 
 do 
 do 
 
 Whole 
 number 
 of Cows. 
 
 865 
 140 
 275 
 350 
 590 
 620 
 575 
 650 
 400 
 600 
 300 
 260 
 
 Shri'k- 
 
 age. 
 Per ct. 
 
 3 
 
 3^ 
 
 i% 
 
 Amount 
 of cured 
 cheese 
 made, in 
 pounds. 
 
 311.881 
 59,277 
 82,100 
 96,716 
 168,561 
 212,975 
 233,802 
 259,064 
 118,412 
 183,479 
 97.000 
 77,784 
 
 Aver. 
 
 price 
 ^ B)., in 
 cts. and 
 fract'ns 
 
 18.07 
 17.58 
 17.41 
 
 17.54 
 17.92 
 17. ,32 
 17.02 
 17.50 
 17.91 
 17.25 
 17.25 
 
 Aver 
 w't. 
 
 Aver. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 milk 
 for one 
 cured 
 cheese 
 
 9.8 
 
Appendix. 
 Table for 1866.— Continued. 
 
 525 
 
 NAME OF Factory. 
 
 Charlei 
 
 17 
 
 16 
 
 15K 
 
 15>i 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 16K 
 
 16 
 
 14K 
 
 14X 
 
 14:^ 
 
 14K 
 14>^ 
 14^ 
 14Ji 
 UVi 
 
 uy, 
 
 14K 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 14K 
 
 U% 
 
 It^ 
 15 
 15!4 
 15M 
 
 15 5^ 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16K 
 
 16>^ 
 
 16 V^ 
 16M 
 
 Price of 
 Gold. 
 
 122 
 
 121% 
 
 120=^ 
 
 121 
 
 120% 
 
 119K 
 
 118^ 
 
 115>g 
 
 112 
 
 112 
 
 lll>i 
 
 lUH 
 
 113K 
 
 myt 
 
 115 
 
 115 
 
 115 
 
 114X 
 
 lU}i 
 
 lU'A 
 
 113>i 
 
 113 
 
 111 
 
 112 
 
 112 
 
 116^ 
 
 119K 
 
 121K 
 
 121X 
 
 117M 
 
 114^ 
 
 11651 
 
 114 
 
 114 
 
 114 
 
 113 
 
 114 
 
 113K 
 
 113K 
 
 113 
 
 lll>i 
 
 m% 
 
 lUX 
 112?^ 
 
 111?^ 
 
 lUK 
 110^ 
 110^ 
 
 noji 
 
 110^ 
 
 1871. 
 
 Receipts. 
 
 Exports. 
 
 Price in 
 liiv'rpool. 
 
 Price in 
 N"w York. 
 
 Price of 
 
 Gold. 
 
 
 7 
 
 9,574 
 4,870 
 6,468 
 2,385 
 5,414 
 4,5.)3 
 3,967 
 2,993 
 5,3,30 
 5.938 
 6,927 
 8,012 
 6,856 
 3,519 
 4,092 
 2,860 
 3,608 
 3,636 
 5,164 
 9,141 
 16,029 
 22,&30 
 26,580 
 43,258 
 48,799 
 47,517 
 46,345 
 56,478 
 (57,679 
 59,986 
 
 7,150 
 
 6,685 
 
 6,C85 
 
 9,722 
 
 9,459 
 
 9,130 
 
 11,174 
 
 17,653 
 
 8,344 
 
 9,365 
 
 8.364 
 
 9,671 
 
 4,381 
 
 10,661 
 
 10,062 
 
 8,178 
 
 7,559 
 
 7,559 
 
 10,062 
 
 11,698 
 
 16,927 
 
 20,472 
 
 23,742 
 
 37,,543 
 
 37,293 
 
 45,533 
 
 41,.340 
 
 55,869 
 
 63,420 
 
 61„321 
 
 73s. 
 
 V3s. 
 
 73s. 
 
 733. 
 
 723. 
 
 72s. 
 
 72s. 
 
 72s. 
 
 71s. 
 
 71s. 6d. 
 
 71s. 6d. 
 
 703. 
 
 70s. 
 
 70s. 
 
 69s. 
 
 693. 
 
 69s. 
 
 69s. 
 
 66s. 6d. 
 
 663. 
 
 643. 
 
 633. 
 
 61s. 6d. 
 
 60s. 
 
 593. 
 
 58s. 
 
 563. 
 
 553. 
 
 533. 
 
 52s. 
 
 16 cts. 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 16X 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 12M 
 
 11^ 
 IIK 
 
 11 
 
 110 j^ 
 
 
 14 
 
 110^ 
 
 
 21 
 
 110 ¥ 
 
 
 28 
 
 110 ff 
 
 
 y 4 
 
 lUK 
 
 
 ^ 11 ::...:::::::.::::::::;: 
 
 lUK 
 
 
 18 
 
 lUK 
 
 
 25 
 
 lUM 
 
 
 4 
 
 111 
 
 
 11 
 
 lllK 
 
 
 18 
 
 m% 
 
 April 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 il?^ 
 
 
 8 
 
 IWA 
 
 
 15 
 
 mx 
 
 
 22 
 
 UlM 
 
 
 29 
 
 lllJi 
 
 May 
 
 6 
 
 UIK 
 
 
 13 
 
 lUX 
 
 
 20 
 
 112 
 
 
 27 
 
 111^ 
 
 June 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 112M 
 
 n2% 
 
 
 17 
 
 112% 
 
 
 24 
 
 112>^ 
 
 July 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 113 
 
 
 15 
 
 112% 
 
 
 22 
 
 29 
 
 112 
 112K 
 
530 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 We take the following from the Farmers' and Meclianics' Manual:— "The milk of 
 nearly all animals contain the same ingredients. The best known varieties consist nearly of j 
 
 Caseine 
 
 Butter 
 
 Milk Sugar... 
 Saline Matter 
 Water 
 
 Woman. 
 
 1.5 
 3.6 
 6.5 
 0.5 
 
 4.5 
 3.1 
 4.8 
 0.6 
 
 87.0 
 
 100.0 
 
 1.8 
 0.1 
 6.1 
 0.3 
 91.7 
 
 100.0 
 
 Goat. 
 
 4.1 
 3.3 
 5.3 
 0.6 
 
 86.7 
 
 4.5 
 4.2 
 5.0 
 0.7 
 
 85.6 
 
 100.0 
 
 " One gallon o^pure water weighs nearly 8^^ pounds avoirdupois, hence a pint weighs 
 about a pound. One quart of milk, wine measure, weighs 35 ounces. One quart of milk 
 beer measure, weighs 41 ounces." ' 
 
LIST OF CHEESE AND BUTTEE FAOTOEIES, 
 
 AS REPORTED TO AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION, IN 1871. 
 
 N-R-W YORK.-94G FACTORIES. 
 ONEIDA COUNTY.- 94 FACTORIES. 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. 
 
 RoraeC. M. A Rome 650 
 
 Excelsior. do 6U0 
 
 Greenflelil's do 
 
 Cady's do 30O 
 
 D. U. Carpenter's do 600 
 
 Dick's do 
 
 Squires' Delta 
 
 RidKe Mills Ridge Mills 300 
 
 T. D. Roberts'... .. do 300 
 
 E. Lewis' Deerfleld 900 
 
 Tanner's Oriskany 700 
 
 Mitchell's Remsen 200 
 
 Thomas' :.. do 400 
 
 StarrHill do 100 
 
 Weeks' Verona 600 
 
 Bmrell's do 400 
 
 Verona Centr.al do 325 
 
 Willo w Grove Trenton 1,000 
 
 W.W.Wheeler's do 350 
 
 J.C.Owen's do 650 
 
 Powell's do 
 
 Whitaker's do 250 
 
 Wight's Wh i tesboro 900 
 
 Bagsf's StittviUe TOO 
 
 Deei-fleld & Marcy Utica 400 
 
 South Corners Vienna 400 
 
 Vienna, do 350 
 
 West Vienna West Vienna • 
 
 Blossvale Blcssvale 406 
 
 Glenmore Annsville 500 
 
 Bagg's H'jUand Patent 500 
 
 J. G. Cotes' do 400 
 
 J.F.Pierce's do 550 
 
 G.W. Palmer's North Brldgewater... 600 
 
 Deans villc Deansville I'OO 
 
 Hill's Westernville 200 
 
 Williams' do 200 
 
 Waldo's do 350 
 
 Kirklanil Kirkland 300 
 
 Wallace's West Branch 400 
 
 Countrvman's do 
 
 J. L. Dean's. Hecla 200 
 
 Lowell Lowell 600 
 
 Wood s Lee Center 500 
 
 Saxton's do 300 
 
 Charton's do 400 
 
 Capron's do . — • 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. 
 
 Northwestern C. M. A Northwestern 
 
 (Mil's do 
 
 Bionson's do 
 
 Verona Landing Higginsville 400 
 
 Doxtater's do 250 
 
 L. S. Davis' Florence 500 
 
 Cold Spring do 400 
 
 MadRiver do 250 
 
 Vernon Vernon 720 
 
 Clark's do 50O 
 
 M. Snell do 300 
 
 Bionson & Co Vernon Center 300 
 
 West Canada Creek North Gage 500 
 
 A. Blue's do 150 
 
 J.C.Blue's do 700 
 
 Briggs' Marcy Hill 
 
 Wood's Turin 
 
 Shepard's do 
 
 Franklin Franklin Iron Works . 
 
 Camp's Westmoreland 
 
 Cheney's.,. do 
 
 Hampton C. M. A do 
 
 Marshall's Watervillo 
 
 Curtis' do 
 
 Sh earman's New Hartford 
 
 Hampton Stanwix 
 
 Schuyler's do 
 
 Foster's Durhamville 
 
 J. H. Brook's Steuben 
 
 Chuckery Paris 450 
 
 Wilcox do 
 
 A. S. King's Sauquoit 
 
 A. Session's. do 
 
 A.Tucker's do 
 
 S. Thomas' Cassville 
 
 E. A. Palmer's Clayville 
 
 Union Grove Camden 
 
 Harvey's Boon ville 
 
 Reed&Co do 500 
 
 ICnoxboro Knoxboro 400 
 
 Rath bun's New London 400 
 
 NowLondonC. M. A do 300 
 
 Ray's North Bay 
 
 Spinnings' Taberg , 
 
 G. M. Wood's Stokes 
 
 Hurlburt's Ava 
 
 Jones' do 
 
 500 
 400 
 350 
 500 
 700 
 250 
 500 
 500 
 300 
 425 
 590 
 
 250 
 300 
 200 
 150 
 
 AVAYNE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES. 
 
 Walworth Walworth 300 
 
 Butler Center South Butler 240 
 
 Williamson Williamson 
 
 Palmy la Palmyra 
 
 Safford's Sava nnah 175 
 
 South Butler South Uutler 
 
 Macedon Macedon 300 
 
 Wilbur's Newark 
 
 Lincoln West Walworth 
 
 Marion Marion 
 
 Lee & Sheffield Rose 400 
 
 Allowaf Lyons 500 
 
 Naing's do 
 
 CHENANGO COUNTY.— 24 FACTORIES. 
 
 Tuttle Col umbus 
 
 Hira ra Brown's do 
 
 A. R. Sage's New Berlin Center. 
 
 Holmes & Co.'s Columbus 
 
 George Buel's King Settlement... 
 
 Sherburne Sherburne 
 
 Smyrna Smyrna 
 
 Billings' do 
 
 Plymouth Plymouth 
 
 Buckley & Co.'s Oxford 
 
 Harrisville Sherburne 
 
 White & Son's do 
 
 230 Lewis Andrews South Otsellc 
 
 400 Holmesville Holmesville 
 
 800 Daniels' McDonough 
 
 600 Ijincklaen Lincklaen 
 
 600 Wheeler's do 
 
 700 Harrington do 
 
 Norwicn C. M. Co Norwich 
 
 Frink's do 
 
 Leach's do 
 
 Sage's South New Berlin. 
 
 350 Rich's do 
 
 Brown, Sage & Co do 
 
 650 
 600 
 500 
 
532 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 CORTLAND COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES. 
 
 ^ame of Factory. Location. JVb. of Cows, 
 
 Cuyler Village Cuyler 600 
 
 Cold Spring do 300 
 
 Isbell's do 250 
 
 Keeler's do 200 
 
 CnylerHill do 450 
 
 New Boston do 630 
 
 li. Sears' DeRuyter 1,000 
 
 Kenney Truxton 400 
 
 Beattie's do 400 
 
 Blodgett's Mills CortUand vlUe 300 
 
 East Homer East Homer 450 
 
 Wightman's Marathon - — - 
 
 Potter i& Barber's Scott 300 
 
 Name of Factory. 
 
 Location. JVb. of Cows. 
 
 Blodgett Mills Blodgett Mills. 
 
 Raymond's Freble 
 
 Kilt's do 
 
 Homer C. M. (^o Homer 
 
 Tattle's Freetown ..'.'. 
 
 Cincicnatus Cincinnatus 
 
 South Cortland S' iu*h Cortland 
 
 Meecham's Marathon 
 
 Brown's Taylor 
 
 Keeney Settlement Keeney Settiement!!! 
 
 Whitmarsli do 
 
 H. H. Smith's Apulia 
 
 Har 1 ord Harford '..'.'. 
 
 OSWEGO COUNTY.— 58 FACTORIES. 
 
 M. Pierce's South Richland 300 
 
 Gilbert Mills GilbertMills 430 
 
 Dick's Pennellville 
 
 Volney Center Volney 310 
 
 Whittemore's Scriba 500 
 
 Insell & Smith's Volney . '. 375 
 
 East Sandy Creuli East Sandy Creet 
 
 Robbins & Co.'s do 600 
 
 Suydam's do 400 
 
 Trumbull's Pulaski 270 
 
 Hull's do 300 
 
 Cold Spring do 300 
 
 Jones' South Richland 400 
 
 J.. Willis do 300 
 
 Blunt's Orwell 150 
 
 Union Colosse 400 
 
 Union Mexico 500 
 
 Weygint's Pratville 5:30 
 
 Banaska's Ph oenix 
 
 Morton's Orwell 600 
 
 Sweet's Phoenix ■ 
 
 Smith's Hastings 
 
 Hastings C. M. Co do 
 
 Oswego Center Oswego Center 400 
 
 Bowen's Corners Bowen's Corners • ■ 
 
 Wilcox's Oswego Falls 
 
 West Monrf)e C. M. A West Monroe ■ 
 
 Titus & Wilson Hannibal 
 
 Gardner's South Hannibal • 
 
 Fairdale Fairdale 
 
 McMullen's Hinmanville 
 
 Mead's East Sandy Creek. 
 
 Bander's Caughdenoy 
 
 Smith's New Haven 
 
 Daggett's do 
 
 Donnelly's North Scriba 
 
 Southwest Os" ego 
 
 Vermill ion Vermillion 
 
 Smith's Volney 
 
 Hubbard's 
 
 Jennings' Palermo 
 
 East Scriba 
 
 Sweet's Schroeppel 
 
 Gregg's do 
 
 First National - Phoenix. 
 
 Central Square Central Square.. 
 
 West Slanual 
 
 Granby Center 
 
 Rhodes Scriba 
 
 Union Sandy Creek 
 
 Union .. Scriba 
 
 Amboy Amboy Corners . 
 
 Smith's Fulton „ . 
 
 Looniis' Palermo 
 
 Clough & Co.'s Constantia 
 
 Cold Spring Richland 
 
 P. Wyman's Orville 
 
 Burr's Molino 
 
 200 
 400 
 400 
 
 ~50ci 
 50G 
 250 
 lUfl 
 
 ?6fl 
 
 472 
 
 13fl 
 
 250 
 
 22(3 
 
 150" 
 
 230 
 
 325 
 
 200 
 
 MADISON COUNTY.— 65 FACTORIES. 
 
 Norton's Eaton 
 
 Morse's do 600 
 
 Ingram's West Eaton 500 
 
 Pecksport Bouckville 4;0 
 
 Erieville Erieville . 
 
 Seymour's Lebanon 
 
 Smith Valley 
 
 Hill's Oneida Castle 
 
 Cazenovia Cazenovia 
 
 C. Bridge do 
 
 Blodgett's do 
 
 Perkins' do 
 
 Canaseraga Canaseraga 
 
 Elphick's Clock ville 
 
 North Cazenovia Chittenango Falls. 
 
 Chittenango do 
 
 Lebanon Leonardsville , 
 
 Allard's Georgetown 
 
 Quaker Basin do 
 
 Torpy's do 
 
 Mack's do 
 
 Brown & Co.'s do 
 
 Beech&Co.'s do 
 
 Fletcher's do 
 
 Stafford's Penner 
 
 Solsville Solsville 
 
 Pine Woods Pine Woods 
 
 Baker's Eitrl ville 
 
 Chenango Valley do 
 
 Cowasalon Wampsville 
 
 Hunt's Hamilton 
 
 Keith 's — North Brookfleld. . . 
 
 East Boston East Boston 
 
 700 
 400 
 600 
 700 
 600 
 
 450 
 500 
 300 
 
 500 
 150 
 300 
 150 
 
 im 
 
 500 
 J75 
 200 
 300 
 700 
 (00 
 300 
 
 Chapman's Oneida Late 
 
 Hart's do 
 
 Morrell's do 
 
 Cole's Munnsville ...'.'.'.'. 
 
 Linckhi en DeRuyter 
 
 DeRuyter do 
 
 Kirkv'lle Kirk ville '. 
 
 Fletcher's Peterboro 
 
 Val ley Stockbridge 
 
 Adam's do 
 
 New Woodstock New Woodstock'.! 
 
 Hunt's Hubbardsville. . . . 
 
 Lamunion & Co Morrisville 
 
 Morrisville do 
 
 Nelson's Nelson .' 
 
 Ellison's Brookfleld 
 
 Excelsior do 
 
 York do 
 
 Union do 
 
 South Brookfleld South Brookfleld. 
 
 Bridgeport Bridgeport 
 
 Lakewood v do 
 
 Fort Bushnell's Lakeport 
 
 Gifford's do 
 
 Tucker's Mile Strip 
 
 Lenox C. M. A Canastota 
 
 Merrill's Madison 
 
 MadisonC. M.A do 
 
 Siloam Siloam 
 
 Pratt's Hollow Pratt's Hollow... 
 
 Shedd's Corners Shedd's Corners.. 
 
 Downing's Pine Woods 
 
 250 
 150 
 350 
 300 
 600 
 500 
 760 
 450 
 
 600 
 200 
 400 
 600 
 600 
 200 
 350 
 225 
 200 
 250 
 300 
 273 
 400 
 
 JiOO 
 500 
 
 400 
 250 
 
 SCHUYLER COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. 
 
 Cook & Co.'s Havana . 
 
 A Ipine Alpine. 
 
 DUTCHESS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. 
 
 Sheldon's Stissing . 
 
 FRANKLIN COUNTY.— 6 FACTORIES. 
 
 Bombay Bombay Fort Covington Center Ft. Covington Center. 
 
 Malone No. 1 Malone Sargent's South Bangor 
 
 Fort Covington Fort Covington Patterson Chateaugay 
 
Appendix. 
 
 533 
 
 LEWIS COUNTY.-39 FACTORIES. 
 laocation. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. 
 
 Name of Factory. 
 
 Sulphur Springs Lowville 800 
 
 FoUs' do 750 
 
 Hall's Biirnes Corners 200 
 
 Miller's Constableville 1,000 
 
 Wilder's do 
 
 McDonald's do 
 
 Valley do iaO 
 
 High Market High Marl;et ;... 460 
 
 Houseville Huuseville 800 
 
 Glensdale Glensdale 700 
 
 Sugar River Ley den 940 
 
 Wood's Turin 400 
 
 Bush's do 500 
 
 Shepherd's do 230 
 
 Williams' do 150 
 
 Evans' do 550 
 
 Carpenter's HouReville 150 
 
 Rees' Martlnsburgh 200 
 
 Dunton's do 350 
 
 New Bremen Crogan 
 
 Location. No. of Coiua. 
 
 Union West Martinsburgh. . . 
 
 Green's do 
 
 Kelsey's do 
 
 West Lowville West Lowville 
 
 Searles' do 
 
 Alexander do 
 
 Vary Harrisburgh 
 
 Clark's do 
 
 Lanpheie's do 
 
 Knapp's do 
 
 Union Deer River 
 
 Deer River do 
 
 Austin Denmark 
 
 Markham's Collinsville 
 
 Lyon's Lyon's Falls 
 
 Leyden C. A Leyden 
 
 Post's Port Leyden 
 
 Whitney's Copenhagen 
 
 Bent's do 
 
 MONTGOMERY COUNTY.-36 FACTORIES. 
 
 Charleston Four Corners. .Charleston Four Cor.. C25 
 
 Smith Creek B'ort Plain 1,000 
 
 Dunkle's do ■ 
 
 Roof's do 
 
 Empire Burtonville 500 
 
 Florida do 
 
 Hallsville Hallsville 600 
 
 Freysbush Freysbush 
 
 Hessville Sprout Brook • 
 
 Cold Spring Stone Araba 500 
 
 Water ville Ames 750 
 
 Flat Creek Flat Creek 300 
 
 Brookman & Co.'s Fort Plain 600 
 
 Ford's Bush Minden 675 
 
 Cayadutta Fonda 800 
 
 Bates, Sneli & Co St. Johnsville 350 
 
 Snell, Smith & Co do 
 
 Humphrey's Charleston 
 
 Root Root 
 
 Wier's do 
 
 Glen Glen 
 
 Dief endorf s Amsterdam 
 
 W.Green's do 
 
 Dorn's do 
 
 Florida Minaville 
 
 S witzer Hill Fonda 
 
 Schuyler's do 
 
 Mohawk do 
 
 Cold Spring Palatine Bridge. 
 
 Union do 
 
 Failing's do 
 
 Gatesville Randall 
 
 Mother Creek St. ,1 ohnsville 
 
 Buel Buel 
 
 Mapletown 
 
 Kilts' Canajoharie 
 
 ORLEANS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. 
 
 Cooley & Thompson's Albion. 
 
 STEUBEN COUNTY.— 8 FACTORIES. 
 
 Spalding's Howard . . 
 
 Bennett's do 
 
 Kanona Kanona .. 
 
 Wing's Campbell . 
 
 400 J. Davis' Greenwood 
 
 500 Mason's North Cameron , 
 
 300 Spalding & Co Avoca 
 
 — - Sitterly 's Bath 
 
 ONONDAGA COUNTY.— 32 FACTORIES. 
 
 L. H. Webster's Fabius 500 
 
 Delphi Delphi 450 
 
 Salisbury's Apulia 600 
 
 Alexander's Lysander 
 
 Edwards' Manlius 
 
 Hopper's CoUumer 160 
 
 Hiscock's James ville 
 
 Seneca Bald wins ville 150 
 
 Spafford Spafford 
 
 Loomis' Cicero 
 
 Van Bramer's do 
 
 Sternberg's Cicero Center 
 
 S. L. Vail's Delphi ■ 
 
 Elbridge Elbridge 400 
 
 Abbott &Rodgers' TuUy 
 
 Marvin's ..Jack's Rifts 
 
 500 
 400 
 450 
 800 
 500 
 300 
 690 
 GOO 
 500 
 
 270 
 450 
 YOJ 
 400 
 
 550 
 
 400 
 250 
 
 600 
 
 400 
 600 
 
 250 
 
 400 
 
 Belle Isle Belle Isle — - 
 
 Sherwood's Brevverton 
 
 DeWittC. M. A DeWitt 300 
 
 Talbot Fabius 400 
 
 Euclid Euclid ■ 
 
 Navari n o Navarino 140 
 
 Kirkville Kirkville 450 
 
 Goodrich's Otisco 200 
 
 Little Utlca Little Utica 300 
 
 Betts' Ciirners Betls' Corners 
 
 Cole Settlement Fabius 150 
 
 Block do 
 
 Southard's Pompey Center 
 
 Palmer C. M. A Oran 250 
 
 Plain ville Plain ville 400 
 
 Youngs .: Euclid 
 
 Piatt's Plattsburg . . . . 
 
 Rouse's Point Rouse's Point 
 
 CLINTON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. 
 
 .. • — • Smith Dale Peru. 
 
 COLUMBIA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. 
 
 Hudson Hudson . 
 
 Chatham Chatham Center . 
 
 MONROE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES. 
 
 Genesee Valley Sonyea . 
 
 Riga Riga ... 
 
 Mendon Mendon . 
 
 Perinton Fairpurt . 
 
 Cold Spring West Farmington 
 
 Flint Creek Flint Creek 
 
 ONTARIO COUNT Y.-3 FACTORIES. 
 
 450 East Bloomfleld East Bloomfleld. 
 
 FULTON COUNT Y.-8 FACTORIES. 
 
 Stuart's Oppenhelm Center 
 
 Fulton do 
 
 Cross Roads Johnstown 
 
 StoUer's do 
 
 Cold Creek Brockett's Bridge • 
 
 Brockett's Bridge do — 
 
 Perth Center Perth Center 200 
 
 Slate Hill Ephratah 600 
 
534 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY— 16 FACTORIES. 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. oj Cows. 
 
 Clin & Smead's C;inton 675 
 
 Southville aoutliville 2u0 
 
 Kichville Rich ville 640 
 
 Jones' do 
 
 Potsdam Potsdam 500 
 
 Hailesboro Gouverneur 600 
 
 Sprai^iie Corners Shingle Creek 600 
 
 Russell Village Russell 500 
 
 Na7ne of Factory. Location. 
 
 Beech Grove Russell 
 
 West Canton Canton 
 
 South Canton Crary's Mills... 
 
 DeKalb DeKal b 
 
 Gouverneur Gouverneur . . 
 
 Pike's Shingle Creek 
 
 West Fowler do 
 
 Hermyn Hermon 
 
 No of Cowsi 
 oOt 
 
 45C 
 70C 
 
 WYOMING COUNTY.— 29 FACTORIES. 
 
 George Hoye's Attica • — ■ 
 
 Java Village Java Vilhigre 450 
 
 North Java North Java 
 
 Stryker &, Co. 'a do — - 
 
 Empire Java 400 
 
 Arcade C. M. A do — - 
 
 Nile Nile 
 
 Bennington Bennington 400 
 
 Bast Bennington East Bennington 375 
 
 Arcade Arcade 500 
 
 Wells' do 
 
 Gas til e Castile 400 
 
 Gardlant's Attica ■ 
 
 Chapman's Paris Center 
 
 Stephens' Dale 
 
 Tnzier's Johnsonburg - 
 
 Sheldon CM. A Sheldon ■ 
 
 Wyoming Wyoming - 
 
 Chapman's Perry ■ 
 
 Hermitage - 
 
 Orange ville Orangeville 600 
 
 Wilder&Oo.'s do ■ 
 
 Strvkersville Strykersville ■ 
 
 East Coy Pike 250 
 
 Lillibridge do ■ 
 
 Empire East Pike - 
 
 Oatka Gainesville - 
 
 Cowlesville Cowlesville 450 
 
 Java Lake 350 
 
 NIAGARA C0UNTY.-4 FACTORIES. 
 
 Sanborn C. M. Company.. .Sanborn 
 
 Johnson's Creek do ...Johnson's Creek. 
 
 300 Mlrtdleport Middleport , 
 
 J. C. Francis' do 
 
 BROOME COUNTY.-5 FACTORIES. 
 
 Maine Maine 
 
 Hawley ton Hawloy ton. 
 
 Killawog Killawog . . . 
 
 250 Squires Center Kirkwood 
 
 ■ Page Brook Valley North Fenton. 
 
 WASHINGTON C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES. 
 
 North Bend North Granville.. 
 
 North Bend Middle Granville. 
 
 Granville Granville 
 
 Fort Ann Fort Ann 
 
 • South Granville South Granville.. 
 
 250 Middle Gran ville Middle Granville. 
 
 450 Greenwich Greenwich 
 
 • Hawley's Ford Edward 
 
 JEFFERSON COUNTY.— 72 FACTORIES. 
 
 Adams Adams 
 
 Alexander's Henderson ■ 
 
 Antwerp Antwerp 950 
 
 A y ers Waterto wn ■ 
 
 Babcock's Champion 
 
 Barber's Philadelphia 
 
 Bonfoy & Bettinger Mannsville • 
 
 Belleville Belleville 
 
 Bent Antwerp 
 
 B. P. Smith Black River 
 
 Brownville Brownville 400 
 
 Brown Water to wn 
 
 Benjamin & Co.'s Camp's Mills 
 
 Carter Street Stone Mills 
 
 Cascade Rutland 
 
 Champion Village Champion 
 
 Cooper's Evans' Mills..., ■ ■ 
 
 Cold Spring Waterto wn — - 
 
 Cold Spring Belleville • 
 
 Cold Spring Roberts' Corners 
 
 Campbell's South Rutland 150 
 
 Dry Hill Watertown 
 
 Davis' Smith ville 
 
 Eames' Rutland 250 
 
 East Rodman East Rodman ■ 
 
 Earll Carthaj;e 
 
 Ellisville Bllisburgh 
 
 Evans Mills Evans Mills 1,000 
 
 Excelsior Perch River 
 
 Excelsior South Champion 
 
 Farr Pierrepont Manor.... 225 
 
 Foreman's Woodville • — - 
 
 Griswold & Reed Lorraine 
 
 Gardner's Watertown 
 
 Grinnell & Co Pierrepont Manor 300 
 
 Hadsall's Felts Mills ■ — • 
 
 Heath's Adams Center 
 
 Hamlin Rutland 
 
 Harper's Ferry Rutland Center 
 
 Henderson Henderson , 
 
 Howard Stone Mills 
 
 Lorraine Central Ijorraine 
 
 Li merick Dexter 
 
 Leffing well's Henderson 
 
 Mannsville Mannsville 
 
 Maple Grove Lorraine 
 
 M uscallonge Dexter 
 
 Mnzy's Smith ville 
 
 Pillar Point Dexter 
 
 Philadelphia Philadelphia 
 
 Pitkin's Lorraine 
 
 Rodman Rodman 
 
 Rodman Branch Burrville 
 
 Rogers' EUisburgh 
 
 Rogers' Lorraine 
 
 Rutland Valley Watertown 
 
 Sherman's Watertown 
 
 Springer's Redwood 
 
 Smith ville Smithville 
 
 South Champion South Champion 
 
 Springside Dexter 
 
 Sterlingbusli Antwerp 
 
 Tifft's Lorraine 
 
 Timmerman's Orleans Four Corners. 
 
 Warner Adams Center 
 
 Westcott Watertown 
 
 Whitesville East Rodman 
 
 Wicks Antwerp 
 
 Wil son Waterto wn 
 
 Wright Depau ville 
 
 Woodville Woodville 
 
 Worth Worth ville 
 
 27a 
 600 
 
 .100 
 135 
 
 325 
 
 300 
 300 
 300 
 
 775 
 
 GENESEE COUNTY.— 11 FACTORIES. 
 
 Batavia Union Batavia 
 
 Batavia C. M. A do 
 
 Byron Byron 
 
 Rich ville Pembroke . 
 
 Linden Linden 
 
 Stafford Stafford . . . 
 
 Darien Center Darien Center. 
 
 Oakfleld Oakflel d 
 
 West Bethany West Bethany. 
 
 East Bethany East Bethany. 
 
 Poster's Batavia 
 
 SCHENECTADY COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. 
 Mariaville Mariaville Rotterdam 
 
Appendix. 
 
 535 
 
 Name of Factory. 
 
 Ballston Ballston Center 
 
 Empire South. Gal way . . 
 
 SARATOGA COUNTY.-* FACTORIES 
 
 Location. Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory. 
 
 Location. 
 
 Galway Galway . . . 
 
 Charltuu ■. Charlton . 
 
 No. of Cown. 
 
 ORANGE COUNTY.-43 FACTORIES. 
 
 Circlevllle 400 
 
 Coilaburgh 225 
 
 Kockville Mlddletown 20J 
 
 Unionville 250 
 
 Walkill Association 375 
 
 D. Mulloclc's Middletown 250 
 
 Orange Co. AI. A Michigan 550 
 
 do do Chester 325 
 
 Gouge & Co Hamptonburgh 600 
 
 Bates & Co do 250 
 
 Gouije & Youngs' Florida 400 
 
 T.J. Taylor's do 175 
 
 Carpenter Howell Amity 415 
 
 do Warwick 350 
 
 Sanford & Smith do 300 
 
 H. Milburn do 250 
 
 T. Durhind do 150 
 
 Brown, Bailey & Co Edenville 400 
 
 Foster Clark's Wiokiiam's Pond 350 
 
 W. H. Clark & Co Minisink 300 
 
 Barton Spring ...Monroe 100 
 
 Parlor Bl ooming Grove 
 
 Wood's Chester 200 
 
 Kidd's Walden 
 
 J. F. Vail & Co • 450 
 
 Brown, Lane & Co 250 
 
 Wawanda 375 
 
 J. B. Halsey & Co 300 
 
 E. Bull's Chester 150 
 
 Bankers Brother's do 200 
 
 F.Davis' do 225 
 
 P. Holbert's Middletown 275 
 
 Mapes & Co do 425 
 
 James Hulse do 250 
 
 Wm.Mead&Co do 250 
 
 Christee & Co Unionville 300 
 
 O. F.Green Greenville 300 
 
 H. Rearaey do 125 
 
 Finchville Otisville 375 
 
 J. A.Wood Slate Hill 200 
 
 Howell & Co Monroe 400 
 
 Sugiir Loaf Sugar Loaf 550 
 
 Union Cond'sed Milk Co..NewMilford 
 
 GREENE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES. 
 
 Towner's Jewett. 
 
 Hunter'3 Creamery Jewett. 
 
 Smith's Ashland. 
 
 Kirkland Durham. 
 
 ALLEGANY COUNTY.-44 FACTORIES. 
 
 Simpson's New Hudson ( 
 
 Reservoir Seymour ( 
 
 Rushf ord Rush ford 1,( 
 
 Forsythe's Whitesville ! 
 
 S. Sherman & Co Nile : 
 
 Richburg Rich burg. . , : 
 
 Curtis' do - 
 
 D. T. Burdick's Alfred ■ 
 
 Greene's do - 
 
 Friendship Friendship ■ 
 
 Center ville Centerville • 
 
 Ackerley's Rushf ord i 
 
 Barns' Fill more ' 
 
 Andover Andover 
 
 Black Creek BlackCreek 
 
 Oramel Oramel 
 
 Niel 
 
 Wellsville Wellsville I 
 
 Lyndon Cuba ' 
 
 Pettibone's Alfred - 
 
 Dodge's Creek Portville - 
 
 Jackson's Belmont - 
 
 Morley 's Whitney's Crossing. . 
 
 Flanagan 's Cole Creek . 
 
 Crandall's Dodge's Corners 
 
 Belvidere Belvidere 
 
 Rice's do 
 
 Granger Granger 
 
 Little Genesee Little Genesee 
 
 Carr Valley Almond 
 
 A. Congdon's West Clarksville 
 
 Babbit's Hume 
 
 Philips' Creek Philips Creek 
 
 Vandermarsh Scio 
 
 R. Smith's Cuba 350 
 
 West Almond West Almond 
 
 G. West's Alfred Center • • 
 
 J. Wilcox's Wirt Center 150 
 
 Wiscoy Wiscoy 200 
 
 Genesee Little Genesee 120 
 
 Elm Valley Andover 150 
 
 Angelica Angelica 
 
 Clean Olean 350 
 
 McHenry Valley Alfred Center 300 
 
 400 
 250 
 350 
 450 
 
 275 
 
 YATES COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. 
 
 Italy Hollow C. M. A Italy Hollow 
 
 ERIE COUNTY.-54 FACTORIES. 
 
 Stickney's Collins 1,100 
 
 W. G. Huntington Pontiac 800 
 
 North Concord Concord 
 
 First Collins 800 
 
 Collins Center Collins Center 1,100 
 
 Brant Center Brant 550 
 
 Marshfleld Collins Center 1,100 
 
 Morton's Corners Morton's Corners. 
 
 Richmond & Co.'s Sardinia 
 
 Glenwood Glen wood 
 
 Dick & Co.'s Willink 
 
 North Collins Shirley 
 
 Kirby's Shirley 
 
 Young's Alden 
 
 Wheelock's 
 
 Gowanda Gowanda 
 
 Staffin's Collins 
 
 W. Smith's — 
 
 Ballard's 
 
 He nl er Gran d Islan d 
 
 Cotesworth Grand Island. 
 
 North Boston 
 
 Boston Center 
 
 Golden Colden 
 
 Marilla Mnrilla 
 
 Kimball's LancastPr 
 
 Cheese M. A Spring Brook. 
 
 600 
 500 
 400 
 350 
 
 Boston Boston 400 
 
 Concord Center Woodward's Hollow.. 500 
 
 Wales Wales 450 
 
 Paxton's Eden 600 
 
 Sisson 's Shirley 600 
 
 North Evans.- North Evans 500 
 
 Angola Angola 360 
 
 Brant Collins 400 
 
 Springville Springville 1,200 
 
 Blakelev's East Aurora 
 
 Jackson's East Hamburg 300 
 
 Hamburg Hamburg 300 
 
 North Evans North Evans 250 
 
 East Evans East Evans 300 
 
 Eden Corners Eden Corners 350 
 
 North Concord North Concord 600 
 
 Sardinia Valley Sardinia Valley 450 
 
 Newton Sardinia 250 
 
 Hosmer's do 
 
 WalesCenter Wales Center 400 
 
 Puller's do — - 
 
 South Wales Wales 450 
 
 Elma do 300 
 
 Burroughs&Co do 
 
 Francis 
 
 Farrington's Holland • 
 
 Moulton's Protection 
 
 Speedsville , 
 
 TIOGA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. 
 .Speedsville Jenksville 
 
 .Jenksville. 
 
536 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 HERKIMER COUNTY.— 69 FACTORIES. 
 
 Name, of Factory. Location. 
 
 Herkimer Co. Union Little Falls. 
 
 Manheim Center do 
 
 Manheim Turn do 
 
 Newville C. M. A do 
 
 Rice, Broat & Co.'s do 
 
 G.W.Davis do 
 
 Cold Spring do 
 
 Top Notch do 
 
 Van Allen's do 
 
 Fairfield Association Fairfield 
 
 Old Fairfield do 
 
 North Fairfield do 
 
 Eatonville Eaton villa 
 
 IjOcustGrove do 
 
 Mohawk Valley East Schuyler 
 
 Richardson's do 
 
 Budlong's West Schuyler. . . 
 
 Warren's Warren . . . 
 
 Fort Herkimer Fort Herkimer... 
 
 Bellinger's do 
 
 Beckwith 's Cedarville 
 
 Cold Soring do 
 
 Stewart's do 
 
 Howard's do 
 
 Cedarville do 
 
 Smith's Fran Uf ort 
 
 A.G.Norton's do 
 
 Frankfort Center do 
 
 Russell's Russell's Hill 
 
 Wetmore do 
 
 D. Hawn's Stark ville 
 
 Snell's Russia 
 
 Nash's Frankfort Center 
 
 Rider's Cedar Lake 
 
 Stuart's Cedarville 
 
 Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory. Location. Ko. of Cows. 
 
 'i'OO Richardson's West Schuyler... 
 
 600 Skinner's South Columbia " 
 
 500 Kling's Paine's Hollow 
 
 860 Middleville Middleville 750 
 
 900 Northrup's Litchfield " 300 
 
 600 Kinney's do " goo 
 
 -^ Walrath North Litchfield;:!'." 300 
 
 450 Van HornsviUe Van Hornsville 
 
 Young's do 
 
 - — Lackey's West Winfleld 
 
 900 H.C.Brown's do 
 
 , 600 Wadsworth's do 
 
 600 W. Palmer's do 
 
 150 Edick's Mohawk 
 
 450 Mort's (Jo 
 
 360 J. Clark's Winfleld 
 
 300 B. Bartlett's do 
 
 400 North Winfleld North Winfleld 
 
 400 Moon's Russia. 
 
 400 Poliind Cheddar Poland 
 
 300 Herkimer Herkimer 
 
 — Herkimer Union do 
 
 — G.W.Pine's do 
 
 — Newport Newport 
 
 300 Morey's do 
 
 800 Cook, Ives & Co.'s Salisbury 
 
 — L. H. Carr's do 
 
 — W. Peck's do 
 
 — Old Salisbury do 
 
 — Avery & Ives' Salisbury Center 
 
 300 Norway Association Norway 
 
 BOO J.D.Ives' do .'.■ 
 
 — Columbia Center Columbia Center 
 
 — J. Russell's Graefenberg 
 
 CAYUGA C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES. 
 
 Throopsville C. M. A Auburn 
 
 Moravia Moravia 
 
 Sennett Sennett 
 
 Carpenter's New Hope. 
 
 450 Ira Ira 
 
 250 Lincoln's Conquest Center.' 
 
 400 Port Byron C. M. Co.'s. ...Port Byron 
 
 Meridian Meridian 
 
 OTSEGO COUNTY.— 46 FACTORIES. 
 
 Wykoffs Richfield Springs 500 
 
 Bush's do 
 
 E. D.Lamb's Unadilla Forks ,. 350 
 
 Center Brook Otsego 200 
 
 Stocker & Fox's Bast Springfield 600 
 
 easier & Andrews Springfield Center 450 
 
 Hartwick Hartwick , 20O 
 
 Pitt Cushman's Edmeston Center 200 
 
 Col. Gardner's Burlington Flats 150 
 
 Ed. Gardner's do 150 
 
 Benj. Smith's Spooner's Corners 400 
 
 Brockway's Richfield , 400 
 
 Smith & Wilber West Exeter 400 
 
 Kly Creek Fly Creek 200 
 
 Park's Burlington Green 350 
 
 Parley Phillips' Unadilla Forks 200 
 
 Wm. L. Brown's do 200 
 
 Clark's Sch uyler's Lake 200 
 
 Edmeston Center Edmeston Center 750 
 
 Warren Chase's West Edmeston 250 
 
 Joseph King's Burlington Green 200 
 
 George Clark's Hyde Park 300 
 
 Nearing & Co.'s Butternuts 
 
 Russell Bower's Exeter 
 
 Perkin's do 
 
 Hind's Cooperstown , 
 
 Hoxie's (Jo 
 
 Hoxie's Unadilla Forks.'"! 
 
 R. L. Warren's East Springfield... 
 
 West Burlington West Burlington 
 
 Parker's South Edmeston. . 
 
 Pope's do 
 
 L. N. Brown's West Edmeston... 
 
 Ed. Loomis' Richfield 
 
 L. O. Vebber's Exeter Center 
 
 H. & S. Smith's West Exeter 
 
 J.H.Pratt's do 
 
 Lyman Johnson Burlington Flats.. 
 
 Colman's do 
 
 Newel N.Talbot's do 
 
 Hartwick Union Cooperstown 
 
 Chamberlai n's Richfield Springs. 
 
 Cherry Valley Cherry Vallev 
 
 Tuttle's South Edmeston . . 
 
 Rider's Schuyler's Lake.. 
 
 Baker's do 
 
 400 
 200 
 
 300 
 
 CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES. 
 
 Hamlet Hamlet 1,100 
 
 J. E. Robertson's Busti 660 
 
 Clear Spring Fredonia 700 
 
 Burnham's Sinclairville 1,049 
 
 J. S. Hulbert's Forrestville 400 
 
 Villanova Vill anova 400 
 
 Brainard's Hamlet 650 
 
 Coon's (3) Mina 1,250 
 
 do Sherman 457 
 
 Canadawa Arkwright 680 
 
 Gerry Gerry 500 
 
 Cassadaga Cassadaga 400 
 
 SCHOHARIE COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES. 
 
 Sharon Center Sharon Center. 
 
 Seward Valley Seward 
 
 Hindsville Hindsville 
 
 Gardnersville Gardnersville . 
 
 Cobleskill Cobleskill 
 
 250 Argusville Argusville .. 
 
 200 Carlisle Carlisle 
 
 200 Barneyville Barneyville. 
 
 Esperance Esperance .. 
 
 RENSSELAER COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY, 
 Matteson's South Berlin 
 
 TOMPKINS COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES. 
 
 Dryden Union Etna 
 
 Groton Groton Hollow. 
 
 Ellis Hollow Ithii ca 
 
 Arnold's Ithaca 
 
 McLean Association McLean 
 
 600 
 500 
 
 700 
 
 Freeville Union Freeville 
 
 Slaterviile Slaterville 
 
 Peru Peru ville 
 
 Ridgway Creamery Caroline Depot. 
 
 600 
 200 
 
 700 
 
Appendix. 537 
 
 CATTARAUGUS COUNT y.-55 FACTORIES. 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Coivs. 
 
 Welch's Diiytoii Faimersville Farmersville 400 
 
 Perrysburgh Perrysburgh 550 Cook & Brotliers do 
 
 Ticknor's Versailles 5U0 Napaer do 
 
 Slab City Slab City J. K. Button's do 
 
 Ijeon Center Leon Center Ischua Ischua ,. 
 
 Randolph Randolph 200 Portvilie Portville - — 
 
 First Collins Uowanda TOO Clean Clean 
 
 Stebbin's Cattaraugus • Hinsdale Hinsdale ■ 
 
 Waverly Waverly Cady 's Franklin ville • • 
 
 Safford Kast Otto Union ElUcottville 600 
 
 Union do McMahon's do 
 
 Tlffts' do 400 Meadow Valley do 
 
 Crump's do ■ Little Valley Little Valley 
 
 Ashford Ashford 600 Great Valley Great Valley 
 
 Westville Westville Merrilly's Napuli 
 
 West Ashford Ashford Hollow Lyndon Lyndon 
 
 Machias Corners Machias Corners Cadiz C:idiz 850 
 
 Wood worth's Yorkshire 450 New Ashford New A shf ord 400 
 
 Maple Ridge Falrview 660 Yorkshire Center Yorkshire Center 500 
 
 Gowanda Gowanda 550 New Albion 600 
 
 Dwight's do Jenk's Gowanda 1,000 
 
 Allen's Eddyville 350 Pigeon Valley 369 
 
 Maple Grove ElUcottville 200 West Valley West Valley 400 
 
 East Ashford East Ashford 550 B:iUard 400 
 
 Follett's Machals 400 Bigelow's Ashford 
 
 Lewis & Haskell's Sandusky -- — Vedder's Corners do 
 
 Elton Elton 400 Gamps Ashford Hollow 
 
 Kawson Rawson 
 
 CHEMUNG C0UNTY.-3 FACTORIES. 
 
 Bunnell & Horton's Millport 750 Van Duzer & Son's Horseheads 
 
 Rundle's Horseheads 
 
 OTTIO.-IOS in^CTORIES. 
 
 GEAUGA COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES. 
 
 Rocky Dell Bissell's 250 Colton & Co Nelson 
 
 Andrews' do 800 Spring Brook Welshfleld 300 
 
 Bartlett's Chester Cross Roads.. 800 Giove do 300 
 
 Bartlett's Muluerry Corners 300 Munson's Fowler's 400 
 
 Hood's Auburn 500 Pope's Welshfleld 500 
 
 Odell's do 600 Randall's Burton . 700 
 
 Smith's Ford 600 Hall's Claridon 400 
 
 Freeman's South Newbury 500 Armstrong's East Claridon 700 
 
 Hall's Fowler's Mills 600 Smith & Co. 's Parkman 600 
 
 Murray's Chardon 800 Armstrong's Huntsbu rgh 800 
 
 Randall's Chardon 700 Randall's Montville 800 
 
 Pope's Welshfleld 500 Murray's do 500 
 
 Russell 500 Smith's Thompson 500 
 
 PORTAGE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES. 
 
 B. B. Higley Windham H.F.Hudson Ravenna 
 
 Horr & Risden Shalersville Beman Spring Ravenna 250 
 
 H. S. Johnson Garrettsville Hinkley's Mantua 
 
 Hurd & Bro Aurora Burrows Freedom 
 
 Harmons & Root Aurora — — Aurora Grove Aurora 500 
 
 T. C. Bradley Mantua Anderson's Ravenna 300 
 
 I. C. Scram Ravenna 
 
 ASHTABULA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES. 
 
 S. E. &H. N. Carter Windsor 500 J. Pel ton's Wayne • 
 
 Lattlmer's .'Vew Lyme Wire's Austinburgh 
 
 Osborn's Morgan Weldon & Brown Conneant 400 
 
 G. C. Dolph West Andover Pierce's Eagleville ■ 
 
 Austinburgh Austinburgh Harrington & Randall Morgan 
 
 Morley Bros Andover Alderney New Lyme 
 
 TRUMBULL COUNTV.-IS FACTORIES. 
 
 J. M. Trew Farmington Baldwin's Fowler 
 
 B. H. Peabody Kinsman Cortland Bazetta 
 
 Cold Spring do Raymond's Mesopotamia 
 
 Caldwell & Lewis West Farmington Cowdery & Craft's Bazetta 
 
 Farmington Center Farmington Center... Sager & House Bristolville 
 
 E. C. Cox Mesopotamia Harshman & McConnell's.Southlngton 
 
 do North Bloomfleld 
 
 HENRY COUNTY.-l FACTORY. 
 Ridgeville Ridgeville Corners... 
 
 FULTON COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. 
 Royalton Royalton 
 
 LORAIN COUNTY.-S FACTORIES. 
 
 Camden Cheese Co Kipton Snow's Huntington.. 
 
 Mussey & Viets Elyria G. H. Van Wagnen & Co.. North Eaton. 
 
 Horr & Warner Huntington Corning & Hanee Grafton 
 
 Magraugh & Whitlock Wellington Penfield Wellington .. 
 
538 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 LAKE C0UNTY.-5 FACTORIES. 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. 
 
 S. E. Ctirter Leroy, Paiitesv'le P.O. Hitts Willoughby 300 
 
 H. N. Carter Perry Bartlett, & McKee South Kirtland 
 
 K. Freeiuan & Co Madison • 
 
 MEDINA C0UNTY.-6 FACTORIES. 
 
 McDowell Bros Medina 
 
 hello ws Chatham . 
 
 Benedict & Brooker liitchtield . 
 
 • — • Crane & Co Sharon , 
 
 - — Colbetzes & Co Spencer 
 
 Chatham Chatham Center. 
 
 SUMMIT COUNTY. -8 FACTORIES. 
 
 Twinsbnrg Cheese Ass'n. .Twinsburg. 
 
 Wm. Wilcox Twinshurg. 
 
 S. Straight & Co Twinsburg. 
 
 do Hudson 
 
 Richfield West Richfield . 
 
 S. Straight «& Co Streetsboro 
 
 Oak Hill Peninsula 
 
 M. D. Call Hudson 
 
 ASHLAND C0UNTY.-2 FACTORIES. 
 Drake, Eaton & Co. 's Sullivan Clark & Bailey Sullivan. 
 
 HURON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. 
 
 Haviland & Conant Greenwich... 
 
 J. W. Jenne New London. 
 
 Wakeman Cheese Co Wakeman. 
 
 A. J. Lockuvood Bedford 
 
 J. Q. Lander Solon . . . 
 
 CUYAHOGA COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. 
 
 Wyatt's Brecksville . 
 
 ILJL,INOIS.-46 FACTORIES. 
 
 Hainesville Haines ville. Lake Co. 
 
 Burchard's Sumner, Ivank'ee Co. . 
 
 Patterson & Mix Momence, do 
 
 Wm. Keeiiey's Mantino, do 
 
 W. C. Kicliards Momence, do 
 
 W. A. Clark's Sherburnv'le, do 
 
 Wanzer & Co Herman, Kane Co 
 
 R. R. Stone's Richmond, McH. Co.. 
 
 K.R.Stone's Spring Grove, do 
 
 Thompson & Abbott Greenwood, do 
 
 Huntley Grove Huntley, do 
 
 Marengo Marengo, do 
 
 Greenwood Woodstock, do 
 
 Marsh & Jackson Union, do 
 
 Boies ., Kingston, DeKalb Co. 
 
 Sugar Grove Aurora 
 
 I )unton Dun ton 
 
 Kennicott do 
 
 Cameron do 
 
 Perry do 
 
 Williams' do 
 
 Gould & Hammond's Hanover 
 
 Tuttle's Lodi 
 
 Gould & Hammond's Elgin 
 
 Barber & Co Polo 
 
 Albro «& Co Wayne 
 
 Win slow Shirland 
 
 Kilbor's Richmond 
 
 Buckland's Ring wood 
 
 Jones' Hebron 
 
 Conn's do 
 
 Woodstock Woodstock, McH. Co. 
 
 Riley Riley, do 
 
 Buena Vista Huntley, do 
 
 S|)ring Grove Richmond, do 
 
 G;irden Prairie Garden Prairie 
 
 Mead's Hebron 
 
 SI ilk Condensing Co Elgin 
 
 Rockton Rock ton 
 
 Stuart Bros Hebron, McHenry Co. 
 
 Oneida Rockf ord 
 
 Belvidere Belvidere, Boone Co.. 
 
 Hal e Hale, Ogle Co 
 
 AVanzer's Hanover 
 
 do .. Elgin 
 
 Cameron Northfleld 
 
 425 
 
 300 
 600 
 400 
 
 350 
 3t0 
 
 400 
 500 
 
 KEISTTXJCKY.-S I^-A.C'JL'ORIES. 
 
 Chileshurg Chilesburg, Fay'te Co. 
 
 Clark Winchester, Clark Co. 
 
 Shelby City Shelby City 
 
 300 
 300 
 
 Versailles Versailles, W'df'd Co. 200 
 
 Madison County C. M. A.. Richmond 
 
 M:i]srN-ii:sox.A..-4 ih^ctories. 
 
 Anderson Mower City. 
 
 Wells Wells 
 
 Star Rochester. 
 
 Owatonna Owatonna. 
 
 ^wiscoisrsiisr.— 34 e^ctories. 
 
 C. H. Wilder's Evansville, Rock Co.. 400 
 
 Springvale Nanaupa 
 
 Eldredge Af ton 200 
 
 Elkhorn Blkhorn 200 
 
 Rosondale Rosendale 600 
 
 Hazen's Ladoga 459 
 
 Sparta Sparta 200 
 
 Favil's Lake Mills, Jeff. Co . . . • 
 
 Barrett's Burnett Station 
 
 Coolidge Windsor, Dane Co • 
 
 Waterville Waterville, Wauk. Co. 
 
 Boynton's Wuu pun 
 
 Howard's do • 
 
 Johnson's do 
 
 Downey's do 
 
 Carpenter's Kenosha 
 
 Holt's do 
 
 Job n son's Kenosha 
 
 Long's do 
 
 Pierce & Simmons do 
 
 Truesdell's do 
 
 White's do 
 
 Fort Atkinson Fort Atkinson 
 
 Spring Mills Somers 
 
 Bullock's Rockton 
 
 Cold Spring Whitewater 
 
 Coburn's do 
 
 Drake's Lake Mills 
 
 Gilbert & Co.'s Hazel Green , 
 
 Tappan's Morrison 
 
 Wilbur & Co.'s Wilmot 
 
 Strong & Co.'s Oakfield , 
 
 Cochran's Trenton, Dodge Co. 
 
 Reigart & Ross Beloit 
 
Appendix. 
 
 539 
 
 MiT^SSA-CHUSETTS.— S6 in^VCXORIKS- 
 
 Name of Factory. luocation. 
 
 Worcester Co Wairen 
 
 Union Hard wick 
 
 New Braintree New Brain tree.. 
 
 Barre Central Clieese Co..Barre Center 
 
 Burre Cheese Co Barre 
 
 Southwest do 
 
 Hard wick Center Hard wick 
 
 Boise's Blandf ord 
 
 William.stown Williams town . . 
 
 West Brookfleld West Brookfield 
 
 Ijanesbciro' Ijanesboro' 
 
 North Marlboro' North Marlboro' 
 
 Lenox Lenox 
 
 No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs. 
 500 New Lenox Lenox 
 
 Cheshire Cheshire 
 
 543 Petersham Cheese Co Petersham 
 
 • Clieshlre do South Adams 
 
 375 Westboro' do Westboro' 
 
 125 Lewis Milk Condensing... West Brookfleld 
 
 500 Coy's Hill Cheese Co Warren 300 
 
 South Wiliiamatown South WUllamstown.. 
 
 Walker's Greenwich • ■ 
 
 Dana C. M. C Dana 
 
 Putnam's Belchertown 
 
 Slater's TyrinKham 
 
 Greylock South Adams 
 
 ■verm:o:nt.-32 e"^C'jl'OK,iigs. 
 
 East Berkshire East Berkshire 
 
 Enosburgh Factory Co Enosburgh 
 
 North Euosburgh North Knoslmrgh. 
 
 East Franklin East Franklin 
 
 Middleto wn Middle town 
 
 Kose West Rupert 
 
 West Pawlet .West Pawlet 
 
 Hill Middletown 
 
 West Tinmouth West Tinmouth... 
 
 Norton's Wells 
 
 Valentine's Tinmouth 
 
 Ot»er Creek Center Kutland ... 
 
 Billing's Kutland 
 
 Slieldon's West Rutland 
 
 Wickham's Pawlet 
 
 Camp's Stowe 
 
 400 
 600 
 400 
 
 G25 
 475 
 100 
 
 125 
 200 
 
 Missisquoi North Sheldon. 
 
 Gleason's Shrewsbury 
 
 Mason's Ricliniond 
 
 Valley Hinesburg 
 
 East Poultney East Poultney.. 
 
 WalUngf ord Wallingford .. . . 
 
 Williams' Danby 
 
 Rutland Rutland 
 
 West Orwell Orwell 
 
 East Orwell do 
 
 Hosf ord's Charlotte 
 
 Milron Milton 
 
 Milton Falls Milton Falls .... 
 
 Ferrisburgh Ferrisburgh 
 
 New Haven New Haven 
 
 Shoreham Shoreham 
 
 650 
 
 300 
 
 450 
 350 
 350 
 
 ]MiCH:i&Aisr.— S2 fj^^ctokies. 
 
 St. Clair St. Clair 
 
 Fairflel d Fairfield 
 
 Horton's Adrian 
 
 Hoad ley 's Oakf ord 
 
 Saunders' Trenton 
 
 Smith's Augusta 
 
 White's Ceresco 
 
 Maple Grove Farraington. 
 
 Canton Canton 
 
 Beal's Rollin 
 
 Clayton Clayton 
 
 450 
 
 700 
 
 600 
 400 
 
 Spring Brook Farmington 400 
 
 Gilt Edge do 400 
 
 Ionia Ionia 
 
 Reading Reading 450 
 
 Fowler & Co. 's do 
 
 Adrian C. M. Co Adrian 
 
 Ames' Hudson 
 
 Sawin's Mattison 
 
 Utlca Utica 
 
 Welton's North Adams 
 
 Hillsdale Hillsdale 
 
 Holston . 
 
 .Saltville, Smith Co.... 
 
 N^ORTJI C^T?,OLI]Sr^.-l FACTORY. 
 
 Elk Mountain Asheville, Bunc'e Co. 230 
 
 TEI^JSTESSEE.— 1 EA.CTORY. 
 Stratton's Crossville, Cumb'd Co. 
 
 KA.1S"SA.S.— 1 IHA^CTORY. 
 Americus Americus 
 
 Eagle Cheese Co. 
 
 COlMlSrECTICXJT.-l FACTORY. 
 
 .North Colebrooke 
 
 r>EisriN-SYiL."VA.isriA.-i4 factories. 
 
 Springville Springville, Susq. Co.. 
 
 Bridgewater Bridgewater, do 
 
 Gage do do .. 
 
 Worth's Marshallton. Ch'tr Co. 
 
 Damascus Creamery Damnscus, Wayne Co. 
 
 Woodcock First Premium.Woodcock, Crawf 'd Co 
 Woodcock Boro' Cream'y. Woodcock Boro' do 
 
 158 Venango Venango, Crawf d Co. 
 
 200 Keystone N.Bichmond, do . 
 
 80 Cambridge Rockdale, do . 
 
 Ellis & Smith's Waterford, Erie Co... 
 
 New Milf ord Creamery New Milford, Susq. Co 200 
 
 Spring Hill Spring Hill, Bnid. Co. 150 
 
 Earl's Carthage 360 
 
 10A^A.-'7 FACTORIES. 
 
 Smith's Mason City 
 
 Hickling's do 
 
 Wyoming Wyoming, Jones Co , 
 
 Clear Lake Clear Lake , 
 
 Strawberry Point Fayette Co 
 
 Kidder's Enworth, Dubuque Co 
 
 Pierce's Belmond 
 
540 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs 
 L. B. Merrill's Merrillsville Brookman's Crown Point. . . . .' - 
 
 Smith & Son's Norwich, Ox, 
 
 Galloway's IngersoU, 
 
 Josiah Cfollins Mount Elgin 
 
 Moyers' West Zorra 
 
 Adams' Nissouri, 
 
 Wade's Cobourg 
 
 James Harris Ingersoll, 
 
 do Branch do 
 
 H. Farrington's Norwich, 
 
 do Branch... do 
 
 Chas. Banbury's St. Mnry's 
 
 Harris & Adams Mt. Elgin 
 
 Ballard's Negeer"s Queensville, do 
 
 Pearce's Tyrconnell, do 
 
 Middlesex Bowood. do 
 
 Smith & Cochrane's Compton, Pr. Quebec" 
 
 200 
 200 
 70 
 275 
 200 
 175 
 150 
 175 
 250 
 200 
 450 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Abortion 108 
 
 Absorbing liquid manure with sawdust 83 
 
 Acid, Development of in clieese makinfr 4i3 
 
 Acidity in cream, Influence of in churning 501 
 
 Acids, Advantages of over rennet 359 
 
 — for coagulating milk over rennet 359 
 
 — Amount of required 353 
 
 — for coagulating milk 358 
 
 Agitator, Curd 407 
 
 — for stirring milk 453 
 
 Albumen 167 
 
 — in milk 322 
 
 Alderney bull 116 
 
 Alderneys as butter cows 115 
 
 — or Jerseys 114 
 
 Allgauer and Holland cows compared with other 
 
 breed s 176-177 
 
 American cheese 311 
 
 — — abroad. Appearance and comparative 
 
 merits of 276 
 
 — — Composition of 311 
 
 — and Cheddar processes compared 430 
 
 — dairy belt 7 
 
 Ammoniacal salts in cheese 428 
 
 Analysis of beets and turnips 98 
 
 — — leeuminous and other plants— Boussingault 85 
 
 — — milk and wliey in cheese making 336 
 
 — — poison cheese, Voel oker 474 
 
 — — skim milk and whey in skim cheese making 337 
 
 — — whey 319 
 
 — at three periods of manufacture 320 
 
 Annatto, Cheese spoiled by bad 327 
 
 — Description of 438 
 
 — Dry extract of or annattoine lu. ^uiter. 499 
 
 — Method of preparing 439 
 
 — Nicholls' 279 
 
 — — Knglish for butter 499 
 
 — Preparing at the Brockett Bridge Factory.... 439 
 A nnattoine 439 
 
 — Caldwell's analysis 440 
 
 — Receipt for cutting 440 
 
 Apparatus, Factory, Cost of 372 
 
 Appliances, Factory, Convenient 418 
 
 Ashes 66 
 
 — for eradicating mosses 66 
 
 Associated dairies 11 
 
 — dairying 362 
 
 — — Rise and progress of 213 
 
 Austin's agitator, Description of 454 
 
 Average product of cows 21 
 
 Ayrshires 113 
 
 — and Alderney, Crossing 115 
 
 — Crossing common stoclt with 114 
 
 Bad flavored cheese ; its cause 472 
 
 Bandages, boxes, &c 280 
 
 Bandaging machine 421 
 
 Barley, Composition of lOi 
 
 Barn, Absorbing the liquid manures in 36 
 
 — A convenient dairy 32 
 
 — An excellent dairy 33 
 
 — Another style of 36 
 
 — Basement for roots 33 
 
 — Clark's dairy 617-519 
 
 — Drive floors and bays 33 
 
 — Drive-way near the peak 33 
 
 — Fodder thrown downwards 33 
 
 — horse stable and carriage house 33 
 
 — Manure sink 34 
 
 — — cellars under 32 
 
 — Meadow Brook Dairy, Description of 34 
 
 — Klevationof 34 
 
 — Ground plan 35 
 
 — Moderndairv 31 
 
 — Stables for dairy 32 
 
 — Truesdale's, The manure cellar 33 
 
 — ventilators...., 34 
 
 PAGE. 
 Barn with four rows of stables 39 
 
 — without manure cellar 36 
 
 Barns, Dairy 31 
 
 — for cutting and steaming fodder 36 
 
 — Threshing 37 
 
 — Truesdale's, Feeding the cows 38 
 
 — — Preparing the teed 37 
 
 Beef and cheese, Relative cost of producing 12 
 
 Beets, American improved imperial sugar 96 
 
 — Cost of raising 98 
 
 — Distance between rows 97 
 
 — Harvesting 9" 
 
 — Plants in a row 97 
 
 — Preparation of soil for , 96 
 
 — Sin«linK and hoeing 97 
 
 — Time of sowing 97 
 
 Blue grass 73 
 
 Boiler and engine, Another new 385 
 
 — Vertical 385 
 
 — — Jones & Faulkner's 382 
 
 — steam generator, Clark's ,3S5 
 
 Bone manure 90 
 
 Bones to grass lands. Application of 56 
 
 — How to dissolve 65 
 
 Boxing cbeese for market 479 
 
 Branch factories 377 
 
 Breaking the curds 441 
 
 Breeding from healthy animals 108 
 
 — Excessive use of the male 108 
 
 — stock. Bad habits inherited in 119 
 
 — Tainting of the mother's blood. Examples of. 109 
 
 — What is to be considered 110 
 
 Buckwheat, Composition of 104 
 
 Bulls from good milkingfamilies. Importance of 
 
 thoroughbred 120 
 
 Butter, Eaters of, no such 10 
 
 — and cheese. Equalizing the supply of 11 
 
 — What constitutes good 46 
 
 — Cellars 496 
 
 — Character of good 483 
 
 — Color and texture of 485 
 
 — colored with carrots 499 
 
 — Coloring 499 
 
 — Composition of 489-500 
 
 — factory. Plan of Rockville 252 
 
 — factories. Expense and profits 240 
 
 — — System of organizing 246 
 
 — — The Orange Co 236 
 
 — — Water pools for 494 
 
 — firkins, Oak 512 
 
 — —White oak 495 
 
 — Freeing from buttermilk 484 
 
 — grasses of Orange Co 242 
 
 — Hairs in 511 
 
 — How to keep the salt for 511 
 
 — work 509 
 
 — Influence of washing 493 
 
 — in hard water districts 236 
 
 — its keeping qualities 483 
 
 — Losino' the aroma of 495 
 
 — made in New York in 1864 19 
 
 — making — American system 493 
 
 — — at Orange Co. factories 252 
 
 — the Queen's dairy 481 
 
 — — Leading principles for 482 
 
 — — milk room for farm dairies 484 
 
 — — Philosopbyof 500 
 
 — — Scotch method 498 
 
 — — Taints in 503 
 
 — manufacture 481 
 
 — — Modern method of managing milk 484 
 
 — marketing. The Captain's 246 
 
 — Ovor-working and upoiling the grain 508 
 
 — package and packing 511 
 
 — — Elmer's 513 
 
 — packages. Kind of wood for 512 
 
542 
 
 Index. 
 
 \iiA 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Butter packages— Preparing for use : 513 
 
 — Faclcingof 495 
 
 — pail and firkins 254 
 
 — — Philadelphia, description of .....'. 491 
 
 — — Westcott's oak .'.'.. 513 
 
 — Percentage consumed as food .".. 20 
 
 — — manufactured, table for '."'. 22 
 
 — Philadelphia, Making of ! 4H0 
 
 — Price of in London ..'. 10 
 
 — Production of in U. S. and Territories". ". .... '. '. '. 10 
 
 — Salt— its action 5O8 
 
 — The grain of .....' '. 508 
 
 — Washing ........'. 249 
 
 — Whey, Cold process 515 
 
 — —Hot process ...'.! 514 
 
 — worker "" 509 
 
 — — Corbin's 510 
 
 — — Orange county 253 
 
 — Working V.V."" 250 
 
 Buttermilk 497 
 
 — Composition of '. 500 
 
 Calves, Importance of freely handlVng " ". 120 
 
 — How to skin ' 140 
 
 — Raising of .■.■■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■ 147 
 
 — Raising, on the soiling principle 143 
 
 — stomach, The fourth for rennet 130 
 
 — When to be deaconed im 
 
 Can handles. Milk nti 
 
 Cans, Factory milk oq) 
 
 Cardingcowa ??n 
 
 Carrots, Coloring butter with.'.".".'.' 400 
 
 Caserne J^P 
 
 — shells. Influence of.' ."."." .'.'.'." isq 
 
 — Solubilityof *|^7 
 
 _'t m n^rf'?;,?"'' "^ 'I o f com Parati ve equi'vaients ." ." " ." 105 
 
 — Importance of acclimating 107 
 
 Cajiseof floating curds 2^1 
 
 Cellars, Manure 3? 
 
 — under cheese iactori"es]."!!.'!!! 4ja 
 
 Census, Are the figures correct 17 
 
 — Inaccuracy of returus 21 
 
 — report of 1870 Are the figures 'correct.'.".'.";.".":.".' 17 
 
 L-entritugal machine for cheese making 346 
 
 certificate of stock— Form for cheese factory 
 
 company ^ m-, 
 
 Cheddar cheese— its style..'. 97^ 
 
 — — making ;;; o~\ 
 
 — process, Principles of 4Si 
 
 Cheese, American '.'.'..'.'. 311 
 
 — — abroad— Appearance and riierits...'.'.'.'.'.' 276 
 
 ~ Comparative merits of ' 27G 
 
 — — exports in 1848, '49. '50 214 
 
 ~ '^'^oei'"'''®'' exports for ten years, from is'a's't'o" 
 
 looS 956 
 
 — factories, List of !!."."."."!"."."53i-540 
 
 — Home consumption of. 9 
 
 — — — made in United States in 1869..".".!".".".".""! 18 
 
 — — beef, Relative cost of producing... p 
 ~ o?Piir'^'f"^ and making single Gloster cheese'.! 265 
 
 — associations— Old districts affected 234 
 
 — bad from imperfect salting "",328 
 
 — bandages, boxes, &c '" ' ^'^ 
 
 — Cannon ball 4?n 
 
 — certificate of sale. qc^ 
 
 — Cheshire of excellent 'qual'i't'y.'"! 344 
 
 — oairyin g as a specialty— Its history ! '. 213 
 
 — defects in American, bad flavor, &c .' 230 
 
 — districts of England.... o^a 
 
 — dressing room 
 
 295 
 
 — English, improvement "iii""k"eepi"ng,""c"h"ee"s'e 
 
 room, &e ^y^^'e., i^ui-ebe 
 
 — - - inquality .'.".".'.';.'.'.'.'.'."."."."." 994 
 
 — Errors m keeping.... oqa 
 
 — Experiments at Froces'ter Court.".""." 1% 
 
 — — Voelcker's §00 
 
 — ^''fnl8«)*'''6l^^®'^'^°'"'^'f ''0^1862 "to "1866:."^^ 284 
 
 — Extra rich, Arialys'i's'of!!!!'.'.'.'. lYn 
 
 — - fine. Process for making i! .';.'.".' .' 457-4fi' 
 
 — factory owned and managed by one person" sfi? 
 
 — =s^stim7n'N^«^'i^'''^^"l''««"'^tToSsfor :•- 366 
 
 ^1863 ''^^'^ capital invested in 
 
 — factories, Advanta"ges"(3f"a cellar under!." m 
 
 — — Another form of organizing.... sfi^ 
 ^New'Yorlf.^f.**^'* ''"'^ Persons emprdyed'i'n 
 
 ~ ~ inaugurated 'by j'esse" Wi'liiams" '.'.'.'. In 
 
 — — Notice to patrons, form for.. . qRi 
 
 — — Number built in 16 years 21fi 
 
 — — Regulations for oi? 
 
 — factories-Rules for organizing. .".■.■.■".' qm 
 
 — —The early " 'A2i 
 
 — Fancy f:ictory j^ 
 
 — Flavor of, English standard" .".■.".".■."■.■.".".'.■.' ;;;;;::: i26 
 
 — from 't'ainted'mll'k! !!;.■;;;.".■ .'.■; Ik? 
 
 — Gloucestershire ,"."!.'.' Sr! 
 
 Cheese, Grafted *4fiT 
 
 — Hard, dry— How to improve!!!!!!!!!!!! i?q 
 
 — hoop followers Jot 
 
 — — and utensils, English '.'.'.!!".!!!!!!!!!! 293 
 
 hoops.. .„, 
 
 — how afi^ected by fungus im 
 
 — Keeping qualities 790 
 
 — madetromwhey o|? 
 
 — — Ijy centrifugal machine, Ana"l"y"8i"s""df! 349 
 
 — makers. Salary of flrst-class... iqq 
 
 — making, acids for 358" 35? 
 
 American and Cheddar processe"seom'pared: '430 
 
 — — at Avery & Ives' factory 4fiK 
 
 — — Coarse curds process iS 
 
 — — Cutting the curds.. JVn 
 
 — — Fish's views on heat...! 444 
 
 from a small quantity of milk.'Process!!!!! 469 
 
 ~ — — — — number of cows 4fi6 
 
 — -Machinery ^qS 
 
 — — Norway factory !!!!! JSq 
 
 — — paying for by the Dound !!!! 365 
 
 — — Practical mistakes' in sja 
 
 — — Process where milk is sour...! 459' 
 
 — — lemperatureforskiramed milk...'.'. 448 
 
 — whole milk 440 
 
 — — under difficulties !.'! 453 
 
 — — use of sour whey 437 
 
 ~ — beat in !!.'.'!!!!!!!!!!!! 442 
 
 — manufacture 436 
 
 — — cost in families !!!!!!!!'!! 220 
 
 — — English reduction of labor in. .'.".'. 289 
 
 ~ — of, from small quantities of milk 436 
 
 — skimmed 495 
 
 — market at Chippenham om 
 
 — — The English "; 282 
 
 — Mellow appearance of 427 
 
 — Not ripening at too low temperat'iire'.!!!!!!!!!! 330 
 
 — of Somerset 260 
 
 — partially skimmed, Analysis'of!!!!!!!!!! 341 
 
 — per centiige. Manufacture table for "" 22 
 
 — — consumed as food '"20 
 
 — Practical faults in making ... 315 
 
 — press, A primitive aro 
 
 — —English 2% 
 
 — — Frazer'sgang !!!!!!!""! 403 
 
 — — log and how made 46a 
 
 — —screws m^ 
 
 — presses. Factory 400 
 
 — — Herkimer Co., Description 'of!!!!.'!! 399 
 
 — Proper ripening of ' " 427 
 
 — Proportion of moisture in.... 497 
 
 — rack and setter 457 
 
 — Rectangular 41/1 
 
 — - Bandaging !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 416 
 
 — — Boxing Jj» 
 
 — — Curb and press for '.'.'..'. 41a 
 
 — — Description of making 412 
 
 — — press. Cloths for Ijg 
 
 — — Saving in boxes, and down weights.'.'.'.".".".""' 414 
 
 — — ■. hoops and screws 415 
 
 — Ripening of-How afl-eoted by manufacture'!! 448 
 
 — rooms Hot water pipes for heating 331 
 
 — sales. Blank for ^ ms 
 
 — Salting in the whey ?oq 
 
 — Salty taste of 4.I0 
 
 — selling at factories m? 
 
 — shipments from New i'oric and pr'i'c'es'in Lon- 
 don in 1866 and 1867 fSR 
 
 — Size of otS 
 
 — Skim milk. Making !!! 9^ 
 
 — sold in New York in 1864 vi 
 
 — spoiled by bad rennut !!!!!!!!"! 323 
 
 — bigh temperature !.!!!!!!!""! 330 
 
 — not turning 330 
 
 — spoiling by breaking curd too rap"i"d"l"y! !!!!!!!!! 318 
 
 — statistics 523-527 
 
 — Si-ilton 428 
 
 — — and Cotherstoiie, Analysis of...'.'.'.".*."."."."."."""' 304 
 
 — — Characteristics of 429 
 
 — — improved by cream 343 
 
 — styles demanded abroad "278 
 
 — The Derby shape 278 
 
 — — young American 490 
 
 — trad e for 1869, '70 and '71 ".".".' '5'^' 529 
 
 — —of JO 
 
 — tub, Cockey's £35 
 
 — vat. Another form of heater under..'.'!!!!!!!!' 383 
 
 — — and heater, Millar's circulating 390 
 
 — — a utomatic, Description of 387 
 
 — — Oneida 393 
 
 — — with automatic heater !!.!!!!!!!!! 385 
 
 — Water in a good 493 
 
 r K ^V^ ^^^V'^ ; •■ .■.■.■.'.'.'.'.■.'.'.!262-264 
 
 Cheshire cheese making 275 
 
 — and Cheddar cheese. Composition of.'..'."." .306 
 
 Ch urn dash 249 
 
 — room and churning "".". 249 
 
 — Shape of the Philadelphia •. '. 491 
 
Index. 
 
 543 
 
 PAGE. 
 Churning, Causes affecting 504 
 
 — Dog and stieep power for 507 
 
 — Duration of 501 
 
 — Experiments in temperature 483 
 
 — How to be done 483 
 
 — Power for 505 
 
 — the cream or the mills 498 
 
 — — milk, Dutch process 498 
 
 — too quick 488 
 
 Churns, Patent 495 
 
 Cleaning dairy utensils 353 
 
 — millf cans 355 
 
 Clover, AIsi ke 72 
 
 — seed and permanent pasture, Field experi- 
 
 ments on 57 
 
 Clovers, Value for milk lOJ 
 
 — Analysis of 102 
 
 Coagulating milk. Experiments In 357 
 
 Coarse curds process. Salting 465 
 
 Coloring butter 499 
 
 — cheese 433 
 
 — — for the Jjondon market 279 
 
 Common stock. Crossing with thorough-breds 109 
 
 Composition of cheese 297 
 
 Concentrated food, Injury from feeding 135 
 
 Condensed milk 193 
 
 — — Elgin factory 108 
 
 — — Knglish Company 197 
 
 — — Kxports from New York 202 
 
 — of 195 
 
 — — in Switzerland 195 
 
 — — Irish.... 19T 
 
 — — trade. Origin and development of 193 
 
 — — Two kinds of 201 
 
 — milks. Consistency of 201 
 
 Condensing factory. Provost's 201 
 
 — milk. Process of 197 
 
 — — • at Borden factory 197 
 
 — — The Borden factories 197 
 
 Cooking the curds 443 
 
 — —curd, Wight's views 447 
 
 Cooler, can and strainer, Burnap's 375 
 
 Cooling milk with ice 455 
 
 — — at the farm 373 
 
 — morning's milk 437 
 
 Corn — Analysis of varieties 81 
 
 Cottage cheese, how made 479 
 
 Cotton cake, compared with linseed cake 100 
 
 — seed meal 93 
 
 — statement of A. W. Cheever as to its 
 
 value for milch cows 99 
 
 — Voelcker'a views 99 
 
 — Analysis of 100 
 
 Cow, Marks of a good 121 
 
 Cows, Alderneys as butter 115 
 
 — Annual average product 21 
 
 — average number for factory 367 
 
 — bad habits inherited 119 
 
 — Best breed of for the dairy 106 
 
 — Breeding instead of purchasing 107 
 
 — calving 137 
 
 — change of food required 31 
 
 — confined to one field more contented 30 
 
 — driving from pasture 356 
 
 — drying them of their milk 125 
 
 — Escutcheon of for good 123 
 
 — in bad 124 
 
 — in mediocre 124 
 
 — Fall and winter food for 123 
 
 — feeding and management important 124 
 
 — Form of escutcheon for first rate 123 
 
 — good tempered. Value of 120 
 
 — Guenon's discoveries 122 
 
 — Importance of drawing all the milk 127 
 
 — good condition for winter 131 
 
 — shelter for 127 
 
 — in close confinement 130 
 
 — — New York in 1864 and 1865 19 
 
 — injured by exposure 128 
 
 — kept quiet 49 
 
 — Magne's, Classification of 122 
 
 — Milch for years 1840, 1850 and 1860, and ratio of 
 
 population 17 
 
 — Mr. Scott's management of 134 
 
 — not necessary to be constantly feeding 49 
 
 — Number for 1840, 1850, 1860, 1870 18 
 
 — — of in U. S. in 1869 18 
 
 — remarkablefor large yields 134 
 
 — Selecting for the dairy. 121 
 
 — teats— Wetting with milk 357 
 
 Cracked cheese. How to remedy 470 
 
 Cream affected by bad odors 503 
 
 — Analysis of 482 
 
 — two samples 497 
 
 — Composition of 500 
 
 — Density of 168 
 
 — How the English transport 186 
 
 — Scalding, For butter making 605 
 
 PAGE. 
 Cream spoiled in the churn 483 
 
 — strainer. Baker's 488 
 
 — Straining of. Fur butter 488 
 
 — Temperature of. For summer 495 
 
 — that first rises 488 
 
 — When ready for churning 500 
 
 Creamery Association of Wallkill 24'7 
 
 Crossing Alderneys and Ayrshires 115 
 
 Curd agitator rake 407 
 
 — Amount of water in, When ready to go to the 
 
 vat 316 
 
 — cutting implements 441 
 
 — filler 420 
 
 ~ knives, Cast steel dairy 407 
 
 — Limits of temperature for improvement 317 
 
 — mills 408 
 
 — Precautions against too much whey 318 
 
 — scoops 409 
 
 — Water in. When ready to go to press 310 
 
 Curds, Drawing off 456 
 
 — floating 431 
 
 — Salting 449 
 
 — Why they should be ground 402 
 
 Curing room not to be dark 470 
 
 — — floors 423 
 
 — rooms. Appliances for 423 
 
 — — heat in 446 
 
 — — warmed by steam 447 
 
 Cutting the curds 440 
 
 — and cooking the food. Skinner's experiments. 1,36 
 — Stuart's exueiiments 136 
 
 — down the boxes in packing 480 
 
 Dairies, Associated 11 
 
 Dairy belt, American 7 
 
 — Company, Form of certificate for Stock 363 
 
 — compared with other liusbandries 7 
 
 — Country, Characteristics of a good 7 
 
 — district of Wiltshire 291 
 
 — flippers 408 
 
 — farm, A good 8 
 
 — — English management of 81 
 
 — — system of rotation in crops 82 
 
 — forms and fixtures 25 
 
 — goods. Over production of 9 
 
 — house, A small butter cellar for 43 
 
 — — cheese making room for 43 
 
 — — Cold spring water for 43 
 
 — — Curing room 43 
 
 — — for farm dairies 42 
 
 — — Plan and description of for farm 45 
 
 — — What is a proper one 42 
 
 — Interest of. Progress and magnitude in U. S. . 16 
 
 — practice, English 287 
 
 — product of Herkimer Co., N. Y 521 
 
 Ohio 521 
 
 — Products of in U. S. for 1840-1850-1860-1870 18 
 
 — — Com. Wells' estimates 25 
 
 — — of the U. S. in 1850-1860 254 
 
 — —Value in 1840 214 
 
 — Relative advantages 8 
 
 — stock. Education of 121 
 
 — — in Orange Co 246 
 
 — utensils, Cleaning 352 
 
 Dairying, Associated 363 
 
 — — European idea 362 
 
 — English and American points of difference 
 
 and merits 256 
 
 — Requisites to success 46 
 
 — Rise and progress of associated 213 
 
 Daisy, destroying 245 
 
 Dancel's experiments in watering cows 144 
 
 Decay, fermentation and decomposition. Prof. 
 
 Caldwell's views 188 
 
 Derrick and hoisting wheel 424 
 
 Devons 112, 113 
 
 Devonshire cream 166 
 
 Distance in delivering milk 372 
 
 Double curds 467 
 
 Drains, How to be laid 71 
 
 Driving cows 356 
 
 Dutch breed 116 
 
 — cattle as milk producers 117 
 
 Enclosures, Small, Poor economy 27 
 
 Engine and boiler. Another new 385 
 
 Exercise, Importance of for cows 127 
 
 Expenditure of food by respiration— J. B. Law's 
 
 experimen ts 139 
 
 Experiments on clover seed and permanent pas- 
 tures 57 
 
 — with centrifugal machine for cheese making. .347 
 
 Exposure, Cows injured by 128 
 
 Factory buildings ,367 
 
 — — and fixtures. Dr. Wight on 422 
 
 — — Cost of 371 
 
 — Herkimer Co., fancy 370 
 
 — reports. Ohio 522 
 
 — Sfinborn's 368 
 
 — Sinclairville, Main building 418 
 
544 
 
 Index. 
 
 PAGE. 
 Factory site 2^6 
 
 — system, Advantages of ^22 
 
 — — Hauling the uiillc 23J 
 
 — — Its permanency 23o 
 
 — — Objections to 221 
 
 — ■weiglilng can g9g 
 
 — Willow Grove, Description of 368 
 
 Factories, Branch 377 
 
 — — Advantages of 380 
 
 — — Objections to 331 
 
 — Distances in delivering milk 372 
 
 — in Allegany Co., N. Y 535 
 
 — — Ashland Co., Ohio 5138 
 
 — — Ashtabula Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Broome Co., N. Y 634 
 
 — — Canada— Butter and cheese 5l0 
 
 — — Cattaraugus Co., N. Y 5« 
 
 — — Cayuga Co., N. Y 536 
 
 — — Chautauqua Co., N. Y 5.56 
 
 — — Chemung Co., N. Y 537 
 
 — — Chenango Co., N. Y 531 
 
 — — Clinton Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Columbia Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Connecticut— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Cortland Co.. N. Y 532 
 
 — — Cuyahoga Co., Ohio 533 
 
 — — Dutchess Co., N. Y 532 
 
 — — Erie Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Fulton Co., N. Y 532 
 
 Ohio 537 
 
 — — Geauga Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Genesee Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — Greene Co.. N. Y 535 
 
 — — Henry Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Herkimer Co., N. Y 536 
 
 — — Huron Co., Ohio 538 
 
 — — Illinois— Butter and cheese 538 
 
 — — Indiana— Butter and cheese 510 
 
 — — Iowa— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Jefferson Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — Kansas— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Kentucky- Butter and cheese 533 
 
 — — Lake Co., Ohio 538 
 
 — — LewisCo., N. Y 5J3 
 
 — — Lorain Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Madison Co., N. Y 532 
 
 — — Massachusetts— Butter and cheese 639 
 
 — — Medina Co.. Ohio 538 
 
 — — Michigan— Butter and cheese 639 
 
 — — Minnesota— Butter and cheese 538 
 
 — — Monroe Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Montgomery Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — New York State-List of 531-537 
 
 — — Niagara Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — Ohio— Butter and cheese 537,538 
 
 — — Oneida Co., N. Y 531 
 
 — — Onondaga Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Ontario Co., N. V 533 
 
 — — Orange Co.. N. Y 535 
 
 — — Orleans Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Oswego Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — Otsego Co.. N. Y 535 
 
 — — Pennsylvania— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Portage Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Rensselaer Co., N. Y 536 
 
 — — Saratoga Co., N. Y 535 
 
 — — Schenectady Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — Schoharie Co., N. Y 53Q 
 
 — — Schuyler Co., N. Y 633 
 
 — — Steuben Co., N. Y 533 
 
 — — St. Lawrence Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — Summit Co., Ohio 538 
 
 — — Tennessee— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — TiogaCo., N. Y 535 
 
 — — Tompkins Co., N. Y 536 
 
 — — Trumbull Co., Ohio 537 
 
 — — Vermont— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Virginia— Butter and cheese 539 
 
 — — Washington Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — WayneCo., N. Y 531 
 
 — — Wisconsin— Butter and cheese 538 
 
 — — Wyoming Co., N. Y 534 
 
 — — YatesCo., N. Y 5,35 
 
 — Ingersol 1 378, 379 
 
 — List of Cheese and Butter 531-540 
 
 — Organization and selection of sites 225 
 
 — Popular method of organizing ,362 
 
 — selling cheese 364 
 
 Fairfield factory, Description of 368 
 
 Failing to face. Management of cheese when 448 
 
 Fall feeding cows 145 
 
 — management of cows 146 
 
 Fancy factory cheese, Herkimer Co 462 
 
 Farm dairies. Cooling morning's milk., 437 
 
 — English, Harding's *. 2f;8 
 
 — rents In England 268 
 
 Fiults practical in making cheese 315 
 
 Fjed, Spring and summer, for milch cows 137 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Feeding cows for milk— Horsf all's experiments. . 141 
 
 — grain in summer 142 
 
 Fence, A light. How to make 28 
 
 — Board 29 
 
 — — How to make 29 
 
 — Interior, tor dairy farms 27 
 
 Fences, Log and rail 28 
 
 — Movable panel 28 
 
 — Picket 28 
 
 Fencing 26 
 
 — Bconomyin 29 
 
 — Employing an engineer for 27 
 
 — Expense of for farms of the State 26 
 
 Flavor, Delicate of Stilton 430 
 
 Floating curds 431 
 
 — — Grinding for 432 
 
 — — Iron's process for 433 
 
 — —Moon's process ♦ 434 
 
 — — Preventive of 435 ■ 
 
 — — Remedy for 435 ■ 
 
 — — Treatment of 436 11 
 
 Fodder, Barns for cutting and steaming 36 ■ 
 
 Food. A good article needed 9 
 
 — Cheap and nutritious. Influence of 11 
 
 — Dr. Thompson's experiments with, for ani- 
 
 mals 103 1 
 
 — Economical use of 12 BJ 
 
 — Experiments in Dundee prison 15 Bi 
 
 — gained by steaming 38 ■ 
 
 — Gold prices for different kinds 9 
 
 — Muscle making 14 
 
 — Producing cheaply 11 
 
 Gloucester cheese. Single and double analysis of. 307 
 
 Gloucestershire 264 
 
 Grades, Short-Horns HI 
 
 Grafting the curds 467 
 
 Grass, artificial. Green produce at Escrick Park. . 62 
 
 — compared wiih cotton, corn, wheat, oat and 
 
 potato crops— values of each 52 
 
 — crop, Importance of 51 
 
 — early and late cut, Relative value for cows 131 
 
 — — cut. Value of 133 
 
 — lands improved by irrigation 86 
 
 — — Liquid manure for 67 
 
 — — Management of 51 
 
 — — Seeding in spring 74 
 
 — — Top dressing of 55 
 
 — with artiticial manure 56 
 
 — gypsum 67 
 
 — — Treatment of rough surfaces 82 
 
 — Pecuniary value of 51 
 
 — Turning cows to., 142 
 
 Grasses, artificial. Table showing produce of 58 
 
 — Butter, of Orange Co 242 
 
 — for the dairy in England 266 
 
 — — pastures, Gib.son's views 72 
 
 — Influence of nitrogenous fertilizers 60 
 
 — Lawes' and Gilbert's experiments 60 
 
 — Milk producing varieties 66 
 
 — nutritive value of different varieties. Table for 85 
 
 — of Orange Co 242 
 
 — Standard varieties for meadows 84 
 
 Gypsum, Best method of sowing 67 
 
 — Composition of 68 
 
 — Quantity used per acre 68 
 
 — Valueof 69 
 
 Hair in stomach. Balls of 130 
 
 Half soiling 77 
 
 Hard fescue grass 73 
 
 Hay on Harding's farm 270 
 
 Heat, Best mode of applying 445 
 
 — Danger of high 446 
 
 — in cheese making 442 
 
 — in curingrooms 446 
 
 — Injudicious use of 444 
 
 Heater and steam er. Agricultural 396 
 
 — — vats, Position of 393 
 
 — Automatic 385 
 
 — — and cheese vat, Burrell's 385 
 
 — Millar's, Description of 391 
 
 — Old style self 388 
 
 — undervat, Ralph's 388, .389 
 
 — — the vat. Another form of 388 
 
 Heating with dry steam 425 
 
 Heifers coming in when two years old 120 
 
 Herds, Division of 26 
 
 — Large, unwieldy 26 
 
 — Sizeof 25 
 
 Herkimer factory 228 
 
 Holstein or Dutch cattle 116 
 
 Hoops, Cheese press 404 
 
 Horsfall's experiments 141 
 
 Hoven in cattle 150 
 
 — How to treat 151 
 
 Ice in cooling milk. Use of 455 
 
 — injuring butter 455 
 
 Improving hard dry cheese 479 
 
 Irrigation of meadows 86 
 
IXDEX. 
 
 >45 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Irrigation— Sincliiir's opinion B7 
 
 — UtilizinfT water from springs ." Sii 
 
 Italian rye grass 73 
 
 Jennings' pan 4'! 
 
 — milk pan 433 
 
 Jersey s 1 U 
 
 Jewitt's pan 4S7 
 
 June glass 243 
 
 Kindness on milking stock, Influence ol' 1;0 
 
 J^actouieter in court 155 
 
 Ijund, Misdirection in tiie use of ]G 
 
 Lice, Hutcliin's funiigator for destroying l:)2 
 
 — Means of destroying 1,02 
 
 liiminggrass lands Gil 
 
 Linseed lOi 
 
 — and beans, Milk and butter produced by feed- 
 
 ing 102 
 
 — Best way of feeding iJt 
 
 — cake lot 
 
 Liquid manuring, Application of to grass lands .. 83 
 
 — — l)r. Voelcker's views as to value 83 
 
 — — on Alderman Mechi's farm 83 
 
 Lucerne 102 
 
 — Analysis of 102 
 
 — Composition of 103 
 
 Machinery for cheese making 'iQi 
 
 Management of cheese when falling to face 413 
 
 — — cows, Scott's 134 
 
 Mangolds and turnips. Analysis of 93 
 
 — Jilxpeiise of growing 79 
 
 Manufacturing cheese by the pound 385 
 
 Manure, Bone 90 
 
 .- cellars. Convenience of 3S 
 
 •- — Practical bearing of 41 
 
 f- Truesdale's practice 38 
 
 Meadow fescue 73 
 
 — — ill Uevonshire 207 
 
 Meadows— cause of running out 133 
 
 — English system of management 81 
 
 — Getting a good turf on 133 
 
 — near Edinburg 83 
 
 — permanent 83 
 
 Milk, Absorptive properties of 103 
 
 — Action of rennet upon 183 
 
 — Adding lime water to for children 205 
 
 — affected by climate 17S 
 
 — the size and breed of animals 179 
 
 — and butter. Yield of, by feeding linseed and 
 
 beans 103 
 
 — as food 14 
 
 — Association, Orange Co 2.'>1 
 
 — — Ro.;kville 251 
 
 — lioiled less digestible 203 
 
 — Biirden'a condensing process 200 
 
 — business of Orange Co 240 
 
 — butter and cheese, Equalizing the supply of.. 11 
 
 — can, Tlie French 185 
 
 — Canning and keeping in good order 185 
 
 — cans. Cleansing and steaming 335 
 
 — — Factory 397 
 
 — — Open or closed 18B 
 
 — carried on Erie Railway 521 
 
 — cellar, Crozier's 484 
 
 — coagulated with acids ,358 
 
 — Coagulation of 187 
 
 — Experiments 357 
 
 — Color of 104 
 
 — Composition of new 390 
 
 — the products from, in making butter 500 
 
 — Condensing, Process of 197 
 
 — conductor 398 
 
 — consumed as food, table showing per centage 
 
 to each person 22 
 
 — consumption, per centage of, previous to 1801. 21 
 
 — cooler. Improved National 373 
 
 — — Northrup's 376 
 
 — coolers, Hawley's and Bussey's 373 
 
 — coolingat the farms 373 
 
 — Cost of producing in old districts 233 
 
 — transport to New York city 23 
 
 — Cows required to supply New "^ork city on 
 
 Harlem and Erie roads 22 
 
 — crop. Value of in 1860 23 
 
 — Delivery at factories 229 
 
 — Description of 153 
 
 — JClfect of agitation in traveling 185 
 
 carriage upon the cream product 186 
 
 — soils on its keeping quality 185 
 
 — Experiments in using 209 
 
 — Extra rich. Analysis of 339 
 
 — feverish, Its infectious character ....'. 184 
 
 — for skim cheese 41)7 
 
 — from cows inhaling bad odors. Injury of . .""!! 181 
 
 — — watering cows. Increase of 144 
 
 — Gallons sold in New York in 1864 19 
 
 — Globules. Description of ]68 
 
 — How taints in the dairy affect 193 
 
 — Improved by exposure to thealr while cooling 182 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Milk— Influence of food in changing? the relative 
 
 ccjiistitueiits of .109, 5r!0 
 
 — influenced by food— Voelcker's opinion 177 
 
 — Its quality determined by breed Oiaiiirnals... 1?7 
 
 — — use and management for infants and child- 
 
 ren 202 
 
 — Kuhn's e.X|ierimentslor ranging its quality... 170 
 
 — L. B. Arnold's experiments in cooling 183 
 
 — nianutaeture when tainted 401 
 
 — Manufactured and used for food in Thirteen 
 
 States ill ISr.0 20 
 
 — Method of setting for cream 248 
 
 — Mineral matters of 168 
 
 — Neutral or alkaline 165 
 
 — of diseased cows 180 
 
 — pail for setting and cream dipper 249 
 
 — pails for setting milk 494 
 
 — — Millar's 353 
 
 — —Ralph's 354 
 
 — pan, Jewett's 43« 
 
 — — Jennings' 488 
 
 — pans, Jennings' 43 
 
 — p:ntiallyskimined, Analysis of 34." 
 
 — percentage consumed as food 20 
 
 — Phosphates in a gallon 65 
 
 — Plain and condensed 195 
 
 — product and value of in 1870 24 
 
 — production. Influence of fodder upon 170 
 
 — jiroximate acidity for cheese 2:J0 
 
 — Quality, How affected 109 
 
 — Quantity tor butter and cheese 241 
 
 — — Increased by forcing system 48 
 
 — — influenced by grasses 55 
 
 — — produced inflve days from different kinds 
 
 of food 103 
 
 — — received in the city at deiiots Erie, Harlem 
 
 and Long Island R. R., ISO! 22 
 
 — recent tests of i;o 
 
 — Relative nutritive value of 12 
 
 — Richness of Alderney 11,5 
 
 — Room for farm dairies 484 
 
 — — Regulating temperature... 494 
 
 — Rules for the treatment of at condensing 
 
 factor! es 199 
 
 — Secretion of.ahabit 1,33 
 
 — setting for butter. Best temperature for 485 
 
 — — in water pools 494 
 
 — Skimmed, Analysis of Z"^ 
 
 — — as a diet In disease 208 
 
 — Speciflcgravity— A test of quality 154 
 
 — Spontaneous changes in '. 102 
 
 — Stirring, during the night i;^ 
 
 — stock 246 
 
 — — averse to exercise 47 
 
 — — Good constitution Important 101 
 
 — Table showing its composition, resulting from 
 
 Dr. Kuhn's experiments with different kinds 
 
 of food 173 
 
 — -pec centage of minerals leo 
 
 — tester 421 
 
 — tests itju 
 
 — theflrstafter calving. Analysis of 179 
 
 — — souring accompar.ied by yeast iermeiit 192 
 
 — theory of rennet coagulation 167 
 
 — tinted by food 105 
 
 — to a pound of butter 238 
 
 — Pratt's report 497 
 
 — turned to most profit 499 
 
 — Treatment of the evening's mess 22;) 
 
 — Variation of, in quality from poor keep 132 
 
 — Water in... 47 
 
 — Watered, How to test 159 
 
 — Weighing the solids and the ash 162 
 
 — When ready for churning 500 
 
 — Woman's, Characteristics of 204 
 
 — yield per cow in Saxony no 
 
 Milkers and milking on Harding's farm 270 
 
 Milking 355 
 
 — for the London market 136 
 
 — Importance of drawing all from the cow 127 
 
 — Regular hours for 358 
 
 — Wettingthe teats ,357 
 
 — withdryhands 357 
 
 Modern milk pan 485 
 
 Mops, Rubber 409 
 
 Neat cattle. Number and value of 51 
 
 Neglect, Loss of cows from 128 
 
 New milk. Composition of 500 
 
 Normandy butler— how put up 481 
 
 Oats, Composition of 104 
 
 Ohio factory reports 522 
 
 Orchard grass 72 
 
 — — Complaint against, and how obviated 85 
 
 Organizing cheese factories. Form of 363 
 
 OviT-heating, Guard against 446 
 
 Packages badly made for butter 511 
 
 Painted cheese 4'71 
 
 Pastures, Breaking up unprofitable 55 
 
546 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Pastures— Chanfre of for eows SO 
 
 — Fresli cow dung objectiiin;ibie In- u7 
 
 — — produce scours 30 
 
 — How improved go 
 
 — — tolaydown "1 
 
 — Influence of location G9 
 
 — a good seed bed for seedin.-,' 71 
 
 — insufficient drainage TO 
 
 — not to be overstocked 31 
 
 — Old for fattening stock 54 
 
 — Overstocking, &c •')2 
 
 — Permanent 25 
 
 — Plowing up and re-seedin^r 53 
 
 — Seeding for and variety of seeds 71 
 
 — Sliades in 48 
 
 — Trouble with recently re-seedeil 6fj 
 
 — what kinds are best for the dairy 53 
 
 Philadelphia butter 490 
 
 Phosphates, quantity in a gallon of milk 55 
 
 I'igs, Feeding, Law's experiment 110 
 
 Pine-apple cheese liT 
 
 — Manufacture of i'J 
 
 Poison cheese ^7:3 
 
 — — Dr. Jackson's analysis of 4T;i 
 
 — — from damp and imperfect curing rooms 4i'5 
 
 — — Voelcker's experiments 473 
 
 Poor keep. Affect quality of milk ]'i2 
 
 Post holes. How to dig 29 
 
 Power, Slieep, Kichardson's 507 
 
 — for churning 505 
 
 Pre lace 5 
 
 Preliminary to cheese making 352 
 
 Press rings, llubber 4:4 
 
 — — Wooden -105 
 
 Rape cake 101 
 
 Heceiving platform at factories 4:i4 
 
 Rectangular cheese - 4!U 
 
 Red ti)p 72 
 
 Regulations for cheese factories 304 
 
 Rennet at Wall's Court, Eng., Preparation of 335 
 
 — English method of preparing 3.il 
 
 — Hallier's assertion as to its action V.U 
 
 — jar 3(10 
 
 — more nei;ded when milk is sinir 400 
 
 — Voelcker's experiments with 324 
 
 Rennets 359 
 
 — badly prepared 300 
 
 — heat affecting 192 
 
 — How to cure 359 
 
 — saved from healtliy calves 359 
 
 — steeping in whey 300 
 
 — straining the liquid 361 
 
 Root growing at York Mills, N. Y 91 
 
 Roots, Birnie's plan of raising and feeding 79 
 
 — for dairy stock. Growing 87 
 
 — Influence of the crop for rotation 95 
 
 — PulUng and storing 94 
 
 — Time and method of sowing 93 
 
 — Varieties grown at York Mills ; 92 
 
 Rough stalked meadow grass 73 
 
 Rules and regulations for Sinclairville' cheese 
 
 factory 36G 
 
 — for factory where proprietor purchases the 
 
 milk 366 
 
 Salt afferting the flavor of cheese 450 
 
 — cheese spoiled by too much 328 
 
 — factory Hlled 452 
 
 — How to distinguish good 453 
 
 — Importatnce of f or cows 143 
 
 — the kind to be used 451 
 
 Salting butter 502 
 
 — cneesefor hot weather 451 
 
 — — in spring— quantity 451 
 
 — cows 142 
 
 — the curds 449 
 
 Saltpeter— its use in cheese making 471 
 
 Sanborn factory— elevation 301) 
 
 Scales 410 
 
 — Boards 480 
 
 Schweitzer cheese 475 
 
 Scotch method of butter making 498 
 
 Sc(mrs produced by fresh pastures 30 
 
 Scratching poles 129 
 
 Scurfy cheese. Remedy for 472 
 
 Shade trees. Argument against, in pastures 49 
 
 Short-Hor ns 110 
 
 — — grades Ill 
 
 Shute for drawing curds 456 
 
 Sinclairville factory, manufacturing department. 419 
 Sink 419 
 
 — casters 409 
 
 Size of cheese— popular weights of 479 
 
 Skim cheese. Analysis of milk and whey 337 
 
 — — Manufacture 496 
 
 — milk cheese. Composition of 310 
 
 Skimmed milk. Composition of 500 
 
 8kipv)er3, How to v>revent 470 
 
 timuU enclosures, Cost of 27 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Soiled stock, Health of 75 
 
 Soiling, advantages of 75 
 
 — Dr. Wight's exiierience 77 
 
 — Kinds of food to be used 76 
 
 — Manures saved in 76 
 
 — niilch stock 74 
 
 — Mr. Birnie's plan 7S 
 
 — Quincy's experiments '75 
 
 — 'I'lie common plan 80 
 
 — I'lme for sowing corn 80 
 
 — with fodder corn 80 
 
 Somerset and its system of farming 258 
 
 Sour Wliey, Use in cheese making 437 
 
 — — application of at farm dairies 231 
 
 Specific gravity of milk 154 
 
 — drawn from different quarters of the 
 
 udder 161 
 
 — Experiments with 158 
 
 — from different cows 155 
 
 — Influence of the molecular condition 
 
 of caseine 160 
 
 — varies in different day.s Ifti 
 
 — of skimmed milk 154 
 
 — watered milk 154 
 
 Spring and summer feed for milch cows 137 
 
 Stencil plates for marking 480 
 
 Stilton cheese 478 
 
 — —Size of 430 
 
 ^ — Temperature low for 429 
 
 Stirring the milk during night 453 
 
 Stock of Somerset 260 
 
 — Selection, care and manageme t of 106 
 
 — t-hould be wintered well 132 
 
 Stomach, The fourth in calves 1.30 
 
 Stomachs of ruminants, Pre|)ari..g foud for as- 
 similation 129 
 
 Straw 103 
 
 — Analysis of different kinds 103 
 
 — Nutriiive equivalent compared with hay 103 
 
 Stripui ngs 179 
 
 Sugar of milk 168 
 
 Summer temperature of dairy regi'in 517-520 
 
 Sweet vernal grass 72 
 
 Swiss cheese. Manufacture of 476 
 
 Tainted milk 4(il 
 
 Teats, Short 114 
 
 Temperature, Best for setting milk 485 
 
 — for churning, H.vperiments in 483 
 
 — of dairy region— Summer 517-520 
 
 — Proper for gathering the butter 501 
 
 Thermometer, Dairy 409 
 
 — Using a good 490 
 
 Timothy 73 
 
 Top dressing after mowing 84 
 
 — — meadows. Influence of flne and coarse ma- 
 
 nure 84 
 
 — — with liquid manures 82 
 
 Turnip culture 89 
 
 — — Bone manure for 90 
 
 Turnips and mangolds, analysis of 96 
 
 — Harvesting, storing and feeding 90 
 
 — How to sow 92 
 
 — Manures for 92 
 
 — Time of sowing 93 
 
 Value of cheese product of 1865-1863 256 
 
 Vermont cow. Record of 133 
 
 Voelcker on composition of cheese 297—332 
 
 Voelcker's cheese experiments 333 
 
 Washing butter 502 
 
 — the tables and ranges 470 
 
 Water, Dancel's experiments with cows 144 
 
 — Good importance of for cows 143 
 
 — in curd when ready to go to press 316 
 
 — Influence of bad on stock 46 
 
 — Necessity of good for stock 46 
 
 — Wind power for pumping 47 
 
 Watered milk. How to tell 159 
 
 Weeds the curse of dairying 52 
 
 — How to kill 52 
 
 Weighing can 398 
 
 Whey, Application of sour 231 
 
 — at factories. Disposal of 376 
 
 — — farm dairies, A pplication of sour 231 
 
 — — three periods. Composition of 320 
 
 — butter, how made 514 
 
 — cheese. Analysis of 361 
 
 — composition of 319 
 
 — from skim cheese. Analysis of 338 
 
 — — extra rich cheese. Analysis of 3.39 
 
 — — partly skimmed cheese, Analysis of 341 
 
 — in cheese making. Sour 437 
 
 — — the curd. Caution against too much 3W 
 
 — sti-ainer and siphon 407 
 
 Wilts cheese. Manner of making 262 
 
 Wiltshire 261 
 
 — Warwickshire and Leicestershire cheese, 
 
 Composition of 309 
 
 Wire grass 24,1 
 
VERY FEW MEN 
 
 Have ever made the manufacture of Churns a specialty, and have put into their 
 "work enough money, or time, or conscience, to make a really Jirst-class article. 
 
 The present manufacturers of ^'- The Blanchard Churn'' have been engaged 
 (father and sons) in the making of Churns for over fifty years ! They have devoted 
 much time to the scientific investigation of the process of Butter Making, and devel- 
 oping the best mechanical means for aiding it. It has been for many years their onli/ 
 business. They have carefully observed and examined every new claimant for the 
 dairyman's favor. They have been constantly testing and applying improvements to 
 the Churn they have been making. They have been perfecting the machinery and 
 appliances of their factory. They have been untiring in their efforts to combine 
 every desirable quality in their Churn, and to omit every thing needless or compli- 
 cated. They believe they have succeeded, and confidently ofi'er 
 
 as combining more good qualities than any other Churn now made. It has been 
 made and used over twenty years, and there are now in successful operation over 
 
 No other Chum is made of as good material, or as well. 
 
 It cannot get out of order, because it is so simple. 
 
 St has no cog wheels or gearing. 
 
 It brings the Butter as quickly as it ought to come. 
 
 It works the Butter free from buttermilk, in the Churn, 
 
 without any change of dasher, quicker and better than it can be done 
 by hand. It works in the Salt in the same way. 
 It is a perfect AUTOMATIC BUTTER MAKER. 
 
 THE AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK, 
 
 Hon. X. »t. Willard, Jtairy Mditov of Jfloore's Jitiral JVetc-J^orkei', says of itt 
 
 " Your Churn has been in use in my dairy during the past season. It is simple in 
 its construction, is easily cleaned, and does its work in, the best manner. It is a 
 Churn I can safely recommend to butter makers." 
 
 HON. MASON C. WELD, 
 
 JLate ttssociate JSditof of tlte .Atnerican .tgrictiUttrist, says of itt 
 
 " I will not simply say that it does its work well, for we are very critical; but 
 will say it does it to our supreme satisfaction^ both in churning and work- 
 ing the butter. Of late the whole work has been done by a girl of fourteen." 
 
 Our Churns are now in general use in the dairies of the most intelligent farmers in 
 the country. They are on sale in every State in the Union, by all dealers in really 
 first-class Farmers' Implements. 
 
 WE MAKE FIVE SIZES. 
 
 No. 6, for about 12 gals, of Cream. Retail price, $9 
 
 No. 7, " 18 " " 10 
 
 Pnlleys famished for power. 
 
 SAMPLE CHURNS sent for examination and trial to towns where we have no 
 
 Agents, on receipt of 25 per cent less than our retail prices, and satisfaction guaranteed. 
 
 No Churns sent for sale on Consignment or Commission. 
 
 For Churns, Agencies, or full Descriptive Circulars, send to the Sole Manufacturers, 
 
 POETER BLANOHAED'S SONS, Concord, N. H. 
 
 No. 3, for about 2 gals, of Cream, 
 
 EetaU price, 
 
 $6 
 
 No. 4, " 4 " 
 
 II 
 
 7 
 
 No. 5, "8 " 
 
 « 
 
 8 
 
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iflaorc's Stanbarb Uural |)ubUcotions. 
 
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 A WOKK ON THE 
 
 BREEDING, REARING, CARE AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF POULTRY. 
 
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 This work contains Practical Information on 
 
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 From the Country Gentleman. 
 
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 NE^^ EDITIOlSr OF 
 
 The Practical Shepherd, 
 
 By HENRY S. RANDALL, LL. D., 
 
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 From the Prairie Farmer. 
 
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 American Pomology [i.'90 Illustrations] . 3 00 
 
 American Practical Cookery 1 75 
 
 American Rose Culturist , 30 
 
 American Sharp - Shooter [Telescopic 
 
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 Architecture [Cumrr.ings & Miller] 382 
 
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 Arcliitecture, Principles and Practice of 
 
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 Eicknell's Village Builder [55 Plates, 
 
 showing New and Practical Designs] 10 00 
 Bommer's Method of Making Manui'es. . 22 
 
 Boussingault's Rural Economy 1 60 
 
 Breck's Book of Flowers [ncu] 1 75 
 
 Bridgeman's Gardener's Assititant 2 50 
 
 Buist's Family Kitchen Gardener 1 00 
 
 Do. Flower Garden 1 50 
 
 Buit's V egetables of America 5 CO 
 
 Chemistry of the Farm [Nichols] 1 25 
 
 Choilt. D, T, MOOBB, PtCblisher, 
 
 XS.ux>a,l TVe^v-'Y'orlier Offi.ce, 
 
 IXETT irORK: CITY. 
 
A 
 
 amOULTURAL PTEAMER 
 
 HAS NOT YET FOUND ITS EftUAL 
 
 ir-ort THE 
 
 (jUALITIES OF SAFETY, DOEABILITY. 
 
 UTILITY AND ECONOMY, 
 
 For Cooking Food for Stock, and for General Purposes about 
 
 the Dairy and Piggery. 
 
 — »♦« — - 
 
 We have the past season added pi. r?—. to get up steam -with thirty gallons 
 
 a Patent Flue to pass the beat and ^'^;;|^^^ of water in thirty minutes, by the use 
 
 flame around the boiler before reach- ^*^^^^^ of thirty-three pounds of wood, and 
 
 ing the stacli. This Flue can be [^"^^3 a good fire remaining. This Steamer 
 
 filled to any Steamer of our make at "^-^^^i can be had of any responsible dealer, 
 
 trifling cost, and with it we are able «a^^^*^ 1^^^^ if not found address as below. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING FOOD AND USE OF THE STEAMER. 
 
 In setting the steainer, get a good draft, and let it be near the work to be done, and where 
 water in abundance is at hand to wet the fodder. 
 
 To Cooic Hay.— Cut It, wet It ivell, put it in upright tanks or caslcs, with false bottom and 
 tight cover, press it down firmly, puss the steam in under the false bottom, and cook until done. 
 
 To Cook Corn.— Soak as many barrels half full as you wish to cook from fifteen to twenty- 
 four hours, turn on steam, and cook until done, when the barrels should be full. 
 
 To Make Mush.— Fill as many barrels half full of water, as you wish to make barrels of 
 mush, bring the water nearly to a boil by passing the steam to the bottom, stir in each barrel IM 
 to 1% bushels meal uutil well mixed, then cook until done, when the barrels should be full. 
 
 To Cook Vegetables.— Fill the barrels full, and if no other cover at hand, chop the top 
 fine with a shovel, then cover them overwitli bran, meal or provender, and cook until done ; have 
 holes in the bottom of the barrels to carry off condensed steam. 
 
 To Scald Hogs.— Set a cask (if a box is not used) on an incline against your platform, pass 
 your steam to the bottom of the water until suflBciently hot. 
 
 To Wash Clothing.— Pass the steam into your tub of water to heat it to do the washing. 
 The clothes can be boiled after by steam in the tub, or any wooden vessel, without fear of rust. 
 
 To Scald Churns or Cans.— Put a small quantity of water In the article, pass the steam 
 pipe to the bottom, put a cloth around the top, and turn on the steam. Milk Pans can be scalded 
 in a tub of water. 
 
 In all cases pass the steam to the bottom to boil any substance, and shut off steam, or tnke 
 out the pipes when the cooking is done, as tlie boiler in cooling off draws the substance into it 
 and the pipes. Full directions for use sent with each steamer. 
 
 Prize Essays on Cooking and Cooked Food for Stock, with Circular containing price, cnpacity, 
 directions for use, etc., forwarded, postage paid, on receipt of ten cents. Circulars sent free. 
 
 BARROWS, SAVERY & CO., 
 
 Manufacturers. 
 
 JAMES C. HABTB 6l CO., Factors. 
 
 Philadelphia, Sept., 1871. 
 
Knox's Patent and Improved £a^le. Improved Swivel 
 
 —for Side Hill and I^evel Land, that leave no 
 
 Ridg^es or Dead Fnrro^vs. Boston Steel 
 
 Clipper. Sessions and liiiox's 
 
 Patent Hard Steel. Mapes' 
 
 Improved Subsoil. 
 
 THE AMERICAN HAY TEDDER, 
 
 Enables the most important Agricultural product of America to be cut, cured and stored in the 
 barn in one day. Improves the quality and increases the value of the Hay Crop. Prevents all 
 risk of damage from storms and sudden showers. Is simple, durable and of light draft. Was 
 awarded the New England Agricultural Society's only First Prize at the Great Field Trial nc 
 Amherst, Mass., in 1869, as being: superior to all others, and the best and only perfect machine for 
 tedding or turning hay. 
 
 THE PERRY GOLD 
 
 Burt's Self.Adjusting- Horse Hay Rake. Boston Horse Hoe. 
 
 Frencli's Patent Cultivator. Harring^ton's Patent 
 
 Sin^si'le or Combined Seed. So-wer and 
 
 Hand Cultivator. 
 
 AMES PLOW COMPANY, 
 
 Manufacturers of Agricultural Implements and Machines, Dealers in Seeds, Fertilizers and other 
 requirements of Agriculturists and Agricultural Districts. Factories at Worcester and Ayer, 
 
 Warehouses, Quincy Hall, Boston, and 53 Beekman Street, JVew York, 
 
 ^"ORDERS FILIiED PROMPTLY. 
 
 Price Lists and Descriptive Circulars on application. 
 
JONES, FAULKNER & CO., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 earn Dairy Apparatus. 
 
 IRON-CLAD MILK CANS AND PAILS, 
 
 PRESS SCREWS AND CHEESE HOOPS, 
 
 CHEESE AND BUTTER TRYERS, 
 TORNADO, BLANCHARD AND DASH CHURNS. 
 
 DEALEKS IN EVERY DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 DAIRY FURNISHING GOODS. 
 
 We keep constantly in stock 
 UPKIGHT ANI> HORIZONTAL. 
 
 For Factory use, and also for Steaming and Cooking; Food for 
 
 Stock. 
 
 STEAM PUMPS, HAND FORCE PUMPS, STEAM PIPES, 
 
 VAXaVES, COCKS, aAUG£S, %VBIST£cES, &.c. 
 THERMOMETERS \m MILK-TESTL\G INSTRUMEXTS OF ALL KI^DS, 
 
 We are prepared to fit up Cheese Factories, on 
 short notice, -with everything" com- 
 plete for operation. 
 
 ;^° Send for Illustrated Price r.ist. 
 
 Nos. 31 GENESEE & 6 JOHN STS., 
 
 Utica, N. Y. 
 
 Near Bags's Hotel. 
 
Jk. rF'TTT ■!- - SIEST OIF 
 
 They extract the animal heat from the milk and keep it at the desired temnPi-nfiM-^ ,•„ 
 ^^iviSVy^fa^t^^A^l'^^^^^^^^^ profitable, and are adapted to lar^^e and small 
 
 READ THE TESTIIMEOM-ZAILS : 
 
 Pans ove^\.TM^^''n'^fr7;u;geme^\%7or\''uUe7^^^^^^^ "^Vh.f,T t';"\'' «"Pcriarity of the Jewett Patent Millc 
 
 , „ ™ ' '" ' ■ A. M. BENNET. 
 
 butter sens J,"^J!i^f;^J? ai^'/fol- tCL^^Lfs^rn^^'.^fn'not'lrVve'^'o'Jf 4hT^^ "j/r^^";* °'-''«'- """' ^^^^ ^<^-t -^ the 
 after all the disiidvantAKes «"iich I Imve l" bOTed n^ *"";' f'''^ estimate: but I can say, 
 
 satisfaction. My pans are l.rjre eno Kh for fifty cows • 'l IWvt 1 ari n v'l'A"' f l^ ^"^^' .T °*''« ^'^'^ «^eat 
 elevate the water about ten feet and i( t-ikps fli.mir fl^» i,.,r.ViT?„ . ^ twenty-seven the r>:ist season. I 
 
 one-flfth more butter, wlueh sol 1 for five rents r.reDernn[,nd ^Tf7<.^""'°i''T^.",""" '",'""• """^ "-'kes about 
 dairy than with tlie small milk pan^^ I woukl smt fnr^h.To^fflf^Vf. "''"*''','^ ',*^*» lal.ortotake care of a 
 that It can be used for the pans an 1 therconduc'tid into -i tronih'forV'ff'i;'"? 'l"^*^ to elevate tl,e water, 
 them in the Urst place. I am s6 well leased 'n"th the nan, t^^^^^^^^^ ^""^ "^ ^''®." "-^ '" ''"'"P '* foi^ 
 
 cows aniither season, and procure another set of puns ^ ' increase my dairy to one hundred 
 
 Brasher Iron Works, N. Y., Sept., 1S7I. 
 
 ^ R. W. SMITH. 
 
 set of^he'j|;?tf Pafe"n\'' M^yrp'msimnL^,^"^.^ ^•'^^'"'•^^ ^\ ^nlone, N. Y.. have had in use three 
 
 other arrangements for mlk nl. b t i'/. nnd^w! ;'f7""^'f.!3 !'/?.«"««'?."' to give it the 
 
 the weather hot or cold 
 condition ; it makes b 
 
 Kde^croveran'othT/arrangem^^^^^ These advantages ,rre"s„fflcientlogive"i't The 
 
 men everywhere. 'irrangements for making butter, and we recommend it to the attention of d'lirv! 
 
 Malone, Sept. 22, 1871. SEYMOUR L. ANDRUS 
 
 J<>HN C. Win.IAMSON 
 LEVI M. ELDKED. 
 
 E. REEVE. 
 
 territorTror'Ivln'clfto"mnn'*uf^^^^^ ^'^ pnrohase terrilory, or to secure 
 
 Bunsro.^ r-rnnklin Co., N. Y^^Ji^^o^^y^f, ^^r4^^L'ThrJe^iV^dT,f,^.-:;^:^tT^f. «• ^- *^^^^^-' ^' ^^th 
 
 Malone, F^Sn Co." i?. ?!^{]:; *„" vl^^ Srri'nThVfo'r^'fJ^^f J'^'^ York,*nddress L. R. Towsend, 
 place, and ,s an authorized agent for theSe of al/unsold tenTtory:^ '"''^""^•'^'''"'•«« t"^'» ^^ ^^at 
 
 _ L R. TOWNSEND, 
 
 Malone, Tranklin Co., N. TT. 
 
 B. F. JEWETT, 
 
 Worth Bangror, Franklin Co., KT. Y. 
 
xjTic^, isr. Y., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 Cheese Factory an 
 
 ^sLKrx> sxj:e3^=*XjI:ie3s. 
 
 In the apparatus line, wo would call attention to 
 
 THEONEI 
 
 (See Pages 389 and 391,) 
 
 The Best and Cheapest Vat in the World. 
 
 It is suited to all classes of Cheese Factories and Dairies. Over 1,000 are alreadj' used in 
 the former, and 1,500 in the latter. 
 
 S^~ It will innke more cheese from a eiveii qiiniitity of milk than can be mtide by 
 nny other apparatus, and with less of labor and fuel. Superiority of quality is an 
 invariable result. 
 
 N(i additional expense is incurred in setting up; it is ready for ttse. Simple in construc- 
 tion and operation, it is readily understood, and not liable to any accident in use. Tliere is 
 nothing to explode about it, nor any parts to fill up by hard water scale. The heating is 
 perfect in all respects, and easily controlled. It is very durable. 
 
 ■WE ALSO SELL 
 
 STEAI AND "HOT WATER CIRCDLATIE" APPARATUS 
 
 For Cheese Factories, and all articles and fittings for setting up same. 
 
 CUED MILLS, 
 
 FEESS HOOPS 
 
 AND SCREWS, 
 
 And all otiier implements and articles nsed in ciieese-making'. 
 
 A GOOD ASSORTMENT OF 
 
 e-Makers' F 
 
 ngSy 
 
 ^ucli as KEi\I\ETS, best Irfrnds; AiVrVATTO, dry and extracts; 
 
 PRESS and BAIVI>A€iE CI.OXUS, <&c., &c., 
 
 al'%vays on hand. 
 
 We shall endeavor to "keep up with the times" in being able to supply all new inven- 
 tions, if of value. 
 
 Descriptive Circulars and Prices sent on application. Address 
 
 WM. RALPH & CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 
IMPORTAIVT TO MIRYMEIV, STOCK-RAISERS AND FARMERS! 
 
 (COPYR-IOHO?.) 
 
 NE FILIN 
 
 ]VATURE'S O'WN CONDITION POWDERS, 
 
 (PA-TEISTT ^I>JPLIEr> FOR,,) 
 
 FOR FEEDING 
 
 CimE. STOCK OF ffl mis. JIIID POETRY, 
 
 OF BOTH SEXES, ALL AGES AlVD EVERY CONDITIOIV. 
 
 Prepared from pure, selected, hard bone, by a formula originating- with ourselves Guaran- 
 teed by analysis g-iven below and to contain no injurious or deleterious substances. For the use 
 of stock ot all kinds, it is recommended by the highest and best authority in our own as well a^ 
 foreigri countries. Being rich in Fhosphatic matter, in a concentrated form, it sunolies the 
 animal directly with the elements so essential to the promotion of a rapid growth of BODY 
 BONE and MUSCLE elements, of which the soil has been totally depleted by constant cropping! 
 An undoubted remedy for the dairy scourge— aboHion in cows. r j " lui^t-iug. 
 
 "^.A ''^Py °* *^® essay— "The Abortions of Cows: What is the Cause and what the 
 Kemedy?" sent on receipt of 3-cent P. O. stamp. ^ ^^^ 
 
 To place this valuable compound within the reach of all, we have put it in small packages, 
 as well as barrels, and will be sent by express, as directed, on receipt ot the price :-Bbls., $13 each! 
 JraCKages, o ID., 51I ; iU ID., 51J-10 each. 
 
 Address JOHN RALSTOX & CO., 
 
 170 rront St., Wew York, Sole Proprietors. 
 
 AISTALYSIS. 
 
 SHEFFIELD SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL OF YALE COLLEGE. ) 
 New Haven, Conn., Sept. 16, 1871. J 
 
 comp^sulon hf IM^partfr''* ^""^ filings," received from John Ralston & Co.. New York, has the following 
 
 Moisture o on 
 
 Sand "-SV 
 
 Chloride of Sodium [ o'™ 
 
 Bone Phosphate of Lime .......'..'.'.'.'.". 57 ^ 
 
 /-. , . (With some Magnesia and Fluoriiie not separateiyestimat^^^ 
 
 Carbonate of Lime j v;o.,iuia,i,cu.^ 
 
 Ossein (yielding gelatine) with a little fat .....'.'.'.'.".'.".'.■.'.'.'.'.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■;.■.■.■.■.■ 25!?5 
 
 Rodinm^'^ ^''™^'® consists of F^rj/ Pwre Bone, in a state of fine division, with 2% per cent.Tf Chloride of 
 soaium. Lfeigned,] SAM'L W. JOHNSON. 
 
 JOHI\a RALS TO N & CO., 
 170 Front Street, ]Vew York, 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN 
 
 OP KNOWN EXCELLENCE ONLY. (GUARANTEED BY ANALYSIS.) 
 
 Wo. 1 FERUVZASr GUAZrO (Chincha or Guanape), 
 
 Direct from the Gov't consignees. In original packages-2,340 lbs. to ton-at gold prices. 
 
 CLES^f L^L^^Si^5F?fiS^S?_^^ MATTER, and ALL ARTI- 
 
 LEACHED ASHES, FISH SCRAP and NOVA SCOTIA PLASTER FURNISHED BY THE CARGO. 
 
 quota^ro^L"Snrr^7t?o^fc!L:lflTti^creiiT^^ ^"**- D-eriptive Circulars and reliable 
 
 tion gulffietdlaTvery'caleT^" ^''''' *° P"'^'''^^^ ^'^ ^°^"^airy and Factory Vats, >vitli Impi-oxed 
 Heaters ; Large Factory Vats, complete, >vitlt Fipes tor 
 I>istri1>ution of Steam ; Card l>raii»ers ; Presses ^ 
 Hoops ; Scre^vs ; Carrying Cans ; ^Veigli- 
 ing Caas ; Sackers ; Conductors, 
 * &c., &c., &c. 
 
 We use only the best materials, and employ the most experienced workmen in making thes< 
 jroods. In this way we are able to guarantee everything to be of the best quality in market 
 A trial could not fail to convince of this. 
 
 FACTORY AND DAIRY SUPPLIES. 
 
 There has been, heretofore, no place this side of the State of New York, where a full list oi 
 Dairy and Factory Supplies could be obtained at all times, and on short notice. We have determ- 
 ined lo supply this need, deeply felt by the dairymen of Ohio and the West, in whose interesty 
 our business will be conducted, and the continuance of whose patronage, so liberallyextended tu 
 us during the past, we earnestlj'' solicit for the future. 
 
 AVe shall endeavor to keep constantly on hand a full assortment of Cheese Bandage 
 Strainer Cloth, Annatto, Annattoine, Rennets, Factory Filled Salt, Curd Knives, 
 
 THERMOMETEtiS, MILK-'I'ESTING INSTRUMENTS, SCALES, CURD SCOOPS, MiLK PAILS, and in faCt 
 
 tvcrything wanted in the manufacture of Cheese. 
 
 ^^ Seud for Circular and Price List. Please state where you saw this notice. 
 
 B. B. ROE 6l CO. 
 
CHARLES MILLAR & SON, 
 
 Wo. 1S7 and 129 Genesee Street, Utica, W. Y., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 MILLAR'S PATENT CIRCULATING 
 
 COIL HEATERS AND CHEESE VATS. 
 
 PositiTely the 1>est clieese-malfing apparatus in tlie ^rorld. In 
 
 use ill tlie l>est Cheese Factories and private dairies 
 
 tliroug-hout tlie United States and Australia. 
 
 gag~ Satisfaction guaranteed in every case. 
 
 ALSO, MANtTPACTURERS OB" 
 
 MILLAR'S PATENT RATCHET CHEESE PRESS SCREWS, 
 
 PATENT MILK CAI^S, 
 
 MILK PAIL8, 
 
 CAN HANDLES, 
 
 CURD AGITATORS, 
 
 AND OTHER GREAT IMPROVEMENTS IN CHEESE FACTORY AND 
 
 DAIRY UTENSILS. 
 
 MILLAR'S RUBBER PRESS RINGS, 
 
 an invention of decided value. They prevent the curd from pressing- up around the follower 
 of a cheese hoop, and take the place of press cloths. In pressing- after the cheese has been 
 bandaged, they prevent tiie bursting of the bandage at the edge. This of itself renders them 
 invaluaNe to the cheese-maker. 
 
 Iil^~ Illustrated Circulars, siviiigr full information, mailed on application. 
 
 Address CHARLES MILLAR & SON, 
 
 Utica, N. IT. 
 
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