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JESSE WIEEIAMS,
ORIGINATOR OF THE AMERICAN CHEESE FACTORY SYSTEM.
WILLAED'S
PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY:
A COMPLETE TEEATISE ON
DAIRY FARMS AI^D FARMING,— DAIRY STOCK AND STOCK
FEEDING,— MILK, ITS MANAGEMENT AND MANUFACTURE
INTO BUTTER AND CHEESE,— HISTORY AND MODE
OF ORGANIZATION OF BUTTER AND CHEESE
FACTORIES,— DAIRY UTENSILS, Etc., Etc.
X. A. ViLLAED, A. M., "" o^-
Editor of the Dairy Department of " Moore's Bural New- Yorker" and Lecturer at the Maine
State Agricultural College, Cornell University, Etc., Etc.
FULLY AND HANDSOMELY ILLUSTRATED.
NEW YORK:
D. D. T. MOOEE, PTJBLISHEE,
EUEAL NEW-YOEKEE OmOE.
1872.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by
D. D. T. MOORE,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
FBESS OF
„ ~~~~ '- ' WTNKOOP & HALLENBECK,
Smith & McDougal, Electrotypers.
113 Fulton Steeet.
HEW TOBK. .
INDEX TO PARTS.
PAGE.
Pakt I.— INTRODUCTOEY 7
II.— DAIRY FARMS AKD FIXTURES 25
III.— MANAGEMENT OP GRASS LANDS 51
IV.— STOCK— SELECTION, CARE AND MANAGEMENT OP FOR
THE DAIRY 106
v.- MILK 153
VI.— ASSOCIATED DAIRYING — ITS RISE AND PROGRESS 213
VII.— ENGLISH DAIRY PRACTICE 287
VIII.— COMPOSITION OP CHEESE 297
IX.— VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS 333
X.— PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKING 352
XL— CHEESE MANUFACTURE 426
XIL— BUTTER MANUFACTURE 479
XIII.— APPENDIX ....516
INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS,
PAGE.
Agitator, Austin's 454
— Rake 467
AlderneyBull 116
— Cow 117
Automatic Heater and Cheese Vat 386
A yrshire Bull 114
— Cow 115
Bain, Large Stock, Elevation of 400
— Engine room 401
— Second floor 401
— Sectional view of frame 401
— Meadow Brook, Elevation S4
— Lower floor 35
— Upper floor 35
— Model Farm 517
— Basement 518
— End view of frame-work 519
Bull, Alderney 116
— Ayrshire 114
— Devon 112
— Holstein 118
— Short-Horn 110
Butter Bowl and Ladle 250
— Factory, Ground plan of Orange County Milk
Association 251
— Rockville 252
— — Weeks', Elevation 492
— Ground plan of .' 493
Butter Packages, Orange County 254
— Pail, Return 254
— — Westcott's 513
— Worker, Corbin's 512
— — Orange County 253
— — Bound lever 512
— Workers with fluted rollers 511
— — Cortland County 510
Can, Factory weigliing 399
Castor for Curd Sink 410
Cheese Hoop. English, Expanding 293
— Mammoth 3-0
— Press, Factory 401
— — Frazer's Gang 413
— — Oysten's Herkimer County 400
Churn, Orange County 249
— Tornado 507
Churning by water power 504
Conductor Head 399
Cow, Alderney 117
— Ayrshire 115
— Devon 113
— Escutcheon of bad 125
— first-rate 12!
— . mediocre 124
— Holstein 118
— Native 109
— Short-Horn Ill
Cream Gauge 159
— Strainer, Baker's Excelsior 4b9
Creamery, Ground Plan of Walkill 248
Circulating Coil, Heater and Cheese Vat, Millar's 391
Curd Mill 408
— — Ralph's American 409
— Scoop 410
Dairy Barn, Meadow Brook Farm 34
— Lower floor 35
— Upper floor 35
— Dipper 409
— House, Cheese 44
— Basement 45
— Second floor 45
— Knives 40')
Dashers, Churn 249
Dog Power for Churning 508
— Emery's 508
— Old style 507
Elmere Butter Package.... 513
Engine Boom for Barn 41
Factory, Ground Plan of Truxton 227
— Herkimer, End Elevation Manufacturing De-
partment 228
— — Front Elevation 228
— — Ground Plan of 229
— Ingersoll 378
— — Ground Plan of 379
— Milk Cans 396
— Newville, Ground Plan 3T0
— — Second Story 371
— —Third Story 371
— Sanborn S'iQ
Fill er. Curd 4
Firkin 254
— Half 254
Frame for Milk Cooler Water Tank 376
Pumlgator, Hutchins', for Destroying Lice on
Cattle 152
Gate, Weigh-Can 399
Gauge, Cream 159
Glass, Cream 159
Grass, June 243
— Meadow Fescue 244
— Orchard 244
— Poa Compressa 245
— Red Top 243
— Sweet-scented Vernal 245
Hand Power for Churning— Horizontal Shaft 506
Handle, Can Cover 398
— Side 393
Handles, Milk Can 398
Heater 394
— and Vat 392
— for Cooking Feed for Stock 395
Holstein Bull in
— Cow 118
Hoops, Cheese Press 404
— and Wooden Press Rings i 405
Horse Power for Churning, Richardson's 609
Jar, Rennet 360
Knives, Dairy 406
Lactometer 156
JNlacliine, Cheese Bandaging 421
Meadow Fescue 244
Milk Can, Factory 396
— —Iron-Clad 397
— Cooler, Burnap's 375
— — Bussey's Improved 374
— — Hawley's 375
— — Northrop's .■ ,376
— Coolers 374
— Factory, Ground Plan of Provost's Condensed 202
Mop, Rubber 4:0
Native Cow 109
New Boiler and Engine ,^^6
Oneida Vat and Heater 389
— — Cross Section of 390
Pail, Flat-sided 410
— for Setting Milk 494
— — — the Milk, and Cream Dipper 249
— Philadelphia Butter 491
Pan, Jennings' Milk 486
— Jewett'sMilk 487
Pans, Milk, Diagram of 486
Per Cent. Glass 169
Pipes, Heating 393
Poa Compressa 245
Position of Heater and Vats 393
Plaster Sower, Seymour's 68
Press, English Ceeese 291
— Oyston's Herkimer County 400
Presses, Factory 401
Puncture, Point for in Hoven 152
Rectangular Cheese Curb and Press 414
Red Top 243
Rennet Jar 3(i0
Return Butter Pail 254
Rubber Ring 405
Sanborn Factory, Basement 370
— — Ground Plan 370
Scales ; 411
— Jones' Stock 412
Scoop, Curd 410
Screws, Cheese Press 402
Sectional Steam Generator and Boiler, Clark's.... 383
Self -Heaters 388
Short-Horn Bull no
— —Cow Ill
Spring-pole Power for Churning 504
Stock Barn, Large 40
— — Second Fluor 41
— — Sectional View of 41
Stomach, Cow's first 151
Sweet-scented Vernal Grass 245
Tester, Milk, Glass Tubes for 422
Thermometer, Dairy 410
— Floating 156
— Nickel Plated 156
Tin Mil k Pail . Ralph 's 354
— — Pails, Millar's 353
Tornado Churn 507
Trocar 151
Vat, Oneida Farm 396
— Ralph's Oneida Factory 389
Vats and Heater 394
Vertical Engine and Boiler 384
Water-Power for Churning 505
Weigh-Can Gate 399
Whey Strainer and Siphon 407
JPREF^OE.
Up to the present time there lias been no Standard Work on Practical Dairy-
Husbandry, or upon the improved American methods of manufacturing Butter and
Cheese. A book treating of these topics has long been needed, and this work is designed
to meet the wants of tliose who are looking for a safe, practical Dairy Manual.
With more tlian twenty years' experience in Dairy Farming, and an acquaintance
from extensive personal observation with the best methods of dairy management in this
Country and Europe— accustomed to the practical handling of Milk and the manufacture
of its products— in fine, having made a specialty of this branch of industry, the writer
ought to be able to discriminate between the practical and merely theoretical in dairy
management.
Dairy Farming in this country is no holiday aflFair. The men who engage in it are,
for the most part, seeking useful information— sucli knowledge as may be turned to a
good account in their business. In other words, tliey seek to learn how Dairying in its
several brandies can best be made to pay. With lliis standpoint in view, no theories
have been recommended which cannot stand tlie practical test of usefulness. I am not
insensible to the favor with which the results of my experiments and observations have
been received, or to the confidence reposed in me by American Dairymen. 1 can only
say that I have been earnest for improvement in this branch of industry, and have
labored lieartily for tlie advancement of the whole Dairy Interest throughout the whole
dairy districts of our country.
The work here presented is not a compilation— though I have not hesitated to quote
from other writers whenever their statements seemed to be useful. In malcing such
quotations I have aimed to give proper credit, since nothing seems to me more repre-
liensible in a writer than the appropriation of another's labor and brains witliout due
acknowledgment. Among the papers to which special attention is called are those of
Dr. VoELCKEU on the "Composition of Cheese" and " Ciieese Experiments;" also on
"Recent English Dairy Improvements," by Mr. Harding of Marksbury, England.
Tliese papers hitherto have not been in an available form for the American reader, and
will be found, it is believed, both interesting and valuable. In a few instances I have
selected matter from my own pen which has appeared in the Rural New-Yorker, Western
Rural, and other publications ; but for the most part the work has been freshly written,
and gives the most approved practice in dairying as conducted at the present day.
I trust it will not be deemed out of place here to say that I feel under deep
obligations to the Press for the uniform courtesy extended to my various contributions to
Agricultural Literature, througli a long series of years. Profoundly grateful for these
favors, I can only hope in the present instance that this volume may be worthy a candid
criticism. And that it may prove useful to the class for whom it is intended is the sincere
wisli of the Author. X. A. W.
Little Fal,t,s, Herkimer Co., N. Y., 18T1.
INTRODUCTORY.
THE AMEEICAN DAIET BELT.
The gteat American dairy belt lies between the fortieth and forty-fifth
parallels of latitude. It stretches from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, and
possibly to the Pacific. Within its limits are New England, New York,
Pennsylvania, the Northern parts of Ohio, Illinois and Indiana, the greater
portion of Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, and a part of the
Canadas. Of all this belt probably not more than a third of the land is adapted
to dairying. The dairy lands are quite irregular in outline, lying not always
continuously together, but often detached, and not unfrequently, if repre-
sented on the map, would have the appearance of islands.
THE CHAEACTEEISTICS OF A GOOD DAIBT COUNTRY
are, high, undulating surfaces ; numerous springs and streams of never
failing water ; a soil retentive of moisture ; a sweet and nutritious herbage,
that springs up spontaneously and continues to grow with great tenacity ; a
rather low average temperature ; frequent showers, rather than periodical
drouths, and sufficient covering of the ground in winter to protect grass
roots, so that the herbage may be permanent or enduring.
Doubtless within the limits of the United States, on high table lands, or
on the lower slopes of mountainous ranges, there are soils eminently adapted
to dairying ; but we have no large and continuous stretch of country, like
that to which we have referred, where the business naturally would develop
itself into a specialty.
DAIRY COMPARED WITH OTHER HUSBANDRIES.
In my opinion, upon this Northern belt of dairy lands, there is no descrip-
tion of farming that promises better prospect of remuneration than the dairy.
I refer now to farming in the broadest sense of the word, where thousands
grow certain products, and compete with each other in the great markets of
the world. If one happens to be possessed of land in the immediate vicinity
of towns and cities, upon which market gardening may be conducted with
facility, that land may without doubt be put to more profit in growing vege-
tables than in dairying. Fruit lands, eligibly situated and intelligently man-
aged, may also be a source of greater profit.
8 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Limited specialties of this kind, in Avhich only the few comparatively can
engage, must not be embraced in the statement. Compared with other great
interests of the countiy, such as the production of wheat or corn, and other
cereals, the raising and fattening of stock for the shambles, sheep hus-
bandry, hop growing, and the like ; each and all are inferior in their re-
munerative prospects to the dairy.
In the first place, the milk producer enters the great markets of the
world, with less competition than he who is engaged in almost any other
branch of farming. He has a wider range and a more diversified product to
dispose of. The milk farmer may be a breeder to some extent of thorough-
bred cattle. After the first outlay, (and that may be on a small scale at the
commencement,) the expense of raising a thorough-bred cow will be no more
than the raising of the meanest scrub of our common stock. Then, if there is
any profit in fattening stock for the shambles, animals which fail in milk for
the dairy, and are to be " turned," can be employed for this purpose. Both
of these specialties are in the line, and connected with the dairy, as is also
the fattening of swine on dairy slops.
Again, the yield of his cows takes three forms of a commercial product,
each of which enters into universal consumption, and is regarded both as a
luxury and a necessity — Milk, Butter, and Cheese. The last two are highly
concentrated forms of food, and less bulky of transport than other articles of
food of the same value — for, two hundred pounds of butter, costing eighty
dollars, will occujDy no more space in a railroad car than a barrel of flour
costing but six dollars. In other words, the eighty dollars' worth of butter
can be carried as cheaply to market as the six dollars' worth of flour.
This alone is an immense advantage, for when the farmer comes to
deduct freights on a low-pi-iced, bulky product, together with commission to
the middle men for handling, and there will remain often but little profit for
the producer. In New York we have studied this question of
THE DAIRY AND ITS RELATIVE ADVANTAGES,
for many years. We cannot afford to grow corn, for the West, with its rich
prairie and bottom lands, easy of cultivation by machinery, can undersell us.
Look at the average price of wheat for a series of years, and consider
whether the hard, tenacious soil of New York and New England can produce
it at a profit. How is it with wool ? The immense plains of Texas and the
West are competing with us, and can always afford to sell for less money
than it costs us to produce it. We have no chance to enter European
markets with our wool, for Australia and South America stand in the way.
A GOOD DAIRY FARM,
is a good Stock Farm, but stock farms are not necessarily good dairy farms.
It is doubtful whether the great stock farms of the Southwest will ever be
employed largely for dairying. The lands are not so well provided with
water, and the climate is too warm to secure the finest flavored goods. Be-
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 9
sides, the stock farmer of the West and Southwest can at present make more
money in raising stock than by dairying. With the great raih'oad facilities
being developed in these directions, the N'ew York and New England
farmer will find it more and more difficult as a specialty to compete with
these people in raising fat cattle for the shambles. On the other hand, there
has been for the past few years a gradual but constant increase in the
demand and price of dairy products. If you take
THE GOLD PRICES FOE DIFPEEENT KINDS OP FOOD
in London for a series of years, the statistics present the remarkable fact
that dairy products have remained steady, while other products have
fluctuated in prices, and at times become very much. depressed. The reason
of this is that the whole world is not competing in this class of production.
The supply being uniformly within the limits of consumption,
A GOOD ARTICLE IS ALWAYS NEEDED,
and prices do not fall so low, comparatively, as for other products. It must
be observed, too, that upon dairy lands the milk product, year after year,
is pretty uniform as to quantity. Upon natural grazing lands there is no
crop so reliable as grass. Grain, fruit, hops, and the like, are liable to
numerous accidents that lessen or destroy the yield, but which do not obtain
in the grass crop. Hence, the dairyman can* count pretty accurately upon
what his farm will yield, if stocked with an average lot of cows. Again, his
lands are not so liable to be exhausted as those devoted to grain growing,
and with an abundant source of manure at his command should be growing
more and more productive from year to year. The great question with
dairy farmers has been in regard to
OVBE-PEODUCTION OF DAIRY GOODS.
Since the inauguration of the Associated Dairy System, fears have been
entertained that the cheese and butter product of the country would be
beyond a healthy consumptive demand. Dairy products are so liable to
decay that dealers do not care to take the risk of storing and holding in
large quantities. They must go into quick consumption, and hence, any
considerable surplus, accumulating from year to year, would so depreciate
prices that the business could not be carried on with profit. Statistics thus
far show that in Europe production does not keep pace with consumption,
and this difference is every year growing wider and wider. In the United
States the
HOME CONSUMPTION OP BUTTER AND CHEESE,
of late years, has more than kept pace with production, notwithstanding the
extraordinary development of dairying under the associated system.
Previous to the war of the Rebellion we exported butter ; but for some
years past the home consumption has taken all our make, and at a price
which consumers denounce as extortionate.
10 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The best Normandy butter sells in London to-day at about 150 shillings
per cwt., or thirty-two cents gold per pound. Deducting freight and com-
missions, and turning the gold into currency, it would net the shipper in the
States a price below what the best grades are worth at home. In 1860
THE PEODUCTION OF BUTTER IN THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES
was nearly four hundred and sixty millions of pounds. It is, perhaps, to-day
over six hundred millions of pounds, and if we were over-producing prices
would decline, so that shippers could afford to export. Wherever you go
among consumers in towns and cities you hear loud complaints of the diffi-
culty of getting good butter, and the monstrous price which they are forced
to pay. They talk bitterly against the cheese factories, charging them with
the crime of absorbing the butter makers, and thus cutting off production.
They forget that the rapid increase of population and the gormandizing
habits of our people in the use of butter, are the causes which have led to
this condition of things. There are
NO SUCH BUTTER EATERS
on the globe as we Americans. Everything that we cook must be swimming
in butter. Our Irish domestics, many of whom never ate a pound of butter
during their whole lives before .reaching these shores, seem never able to get
enough of this unctuous food. The waste of butter among all classes is
enormous, and, in an economic point of view, is truly alarming. To those
who have traveled in Europe and contrasted the difference in the habits of
people there and here in the use of butter, it need be no surprise that our
dairies are taxed to their utmost to satisfy the craving demands of our butter
eaters. If the habit increases with our constantly increasing population, the
prospects of butter dairying cannot be considered at all discouraging. If we
take the article of cheese, our people are evidently beginning to follow
English tastes in their appreciation of this nutritious article of food. We
are exj)orting now but little more cheese, comparatively, than in 1861,
perhaps twenty millions of pounds more, and yet our production has in-
creased from one hundred and three millions of pounds, in 1860, to two
hundred and forty millions of pounds in 1869. ISTotwithstanding the war ol
the rebellion, and the consequent poverty of the Southern States, which cut ofi
THE CHEESE TRADE
in that direction, the home consumption has gone on increasing from sixty
three millions of pounds, in 1860, to one hundred and eighty millions of
pounds, in 1869. The average increase of home consumption has been at the
rate of thirteen millions of pounds per year. When the Southern States get
into a healthy, prosperous condition, with the wonderful development o:
railroad facilities, the opening of the Southern Pacific Railroad, the influx of
Chinese laborers, and a direct trade with China, it is doubtful whether the
dairies in this country can be developed sufficiently to supply the demands.'
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 11
But there must always be a large dairy interest employed in supplying
fresh milk to our cities and manufacturing towns. This is more apparent
from year to year, and the real question of the dairy interest to-day should
be, to so equalize the supply of
MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE,
tnat the nighest prices may be reached for eacn. I'he difficulty is not so
much the fear that dairying will be overdone, as that the equilibrium will
be disturbed, and either one or the other of these products be increased
beyond its proper proportion. If a large proportion of the cheese makers
were to go to making butter, the butter interest would be overdone and
prices decline; and the same would result to the cheese interest from a large
change from butter to cheese dairying ; while the milk interest would be
greatly injured if a large proportion of dairymen should enter into that
branch, either by furnishing condensed milk, or fresh milk, for city con-
sumption. When Jesse Williams, the unpretending farmer of Rome, in
1850 conceived the idea of
ASSOCIATED DAIRIES,
it was forced upon him as a necessary means for accommodating members of
his own family. He had not the remotest idea that he had hit upon a great
principle — a principle that was of wide application, and which was destined,
in all coming time, to be the means of lifting heavy burthens from the arms
of toil. It is estimated there are now more than a thousand factories in the
State of New York alone, and they are extending rapidly in other States.
They have been carried to the Canadas and across the Atlantic ; and
wherever cheese-making shall be known in after times, it will be inseparably
connected with the name of Jessie Williams. But aside from the
burthens of toil and the drudgery from which this system operates to relieve
our farmers, it has developed another great economic principle,
THE means of producing FOOD CHEAPLY,
a principle which the Creator, in His infinite wisdom it seems, is now im-
pressing upon the minds of people, by the establishment and wide-spread
dissemination of this system. The question of food in all densely populated
communities is one that underlies all others. No nation can rise to the
highest civilization and power without her people are supplied with an
abundance of
CHEAP AND NUTRITIOUS FOOD.
Where food is scarce, or is wanting in nutrition, there you will find
poverty, squalid wretchedness, demoralization and crime — elements of weak-
ness, opposed to progress and civilization. Food nourishes not only the
body but the brain, and the cheapness and abundance of good food has had
much to do in the rapid progress and active development of mind among the
American jseople. But our population is increasing with wonderful rapidity,
12 Practical Bairy Husbandry.
and already the supply of meats in the Atlantic States is becoming compara-
tively scarce. They are to-day at such a price that poor people have difficulty
in obtaining them. As our population increases there will be a still further
scarcity of meats for the supply of our peoj^le. Some other form of animal
food must be substituted in part, at least, for beef, and the question is be-
coming every year more and more urgent, as to how it can be produced
cheaply. And, in my opinion, we must look to the dairy as the chief means
of solving this difficulty. I can illustrate this more satisfactorily, perhaps, by
drawing a comparison between
THE RELATIVE COST OF PKODUCIISTG BEEP AND CHEESE.
A steer which will weigh one thousand five hundred pounds at four years
must be a good animal, and will yield say one thousand pounds of meat.
Three steers at four years, on the above assumption, would produce three
thousands pounds of beef. Now, a good cow will yield from five hundred to
six hundred pounds of cheese per year ; if we take her product for twelve
years at four hundred and fifty pounds per year, deducting the first two
years in which, as a heifer, she yields nothing, we have four thousand five
hundred pounds of good, wholesome animal food. In other words, three
steers at four years old, representing twelve years' growth for beef, amounts
to three thousand pounds, while one cow, twelve years for cheese, four
thousand five hundred pounds. But a pound of cheese, equal in nutrition
to two pounds of beef, would make the difference still greater, giving
for the dairy nine thousand pounds of food on the one hand, against three
thousand pounds of meat on the other. Then there is cost of cooking, and
the bone to be charged against the beef, which, as will be seen, adds further
to the expense of that kind of food.
THE ECON^OMICAL USE OP POOD
I
is not well understood by the majority of people, and perhaps there is no food
in general use the nutritive value of which is more under-estimated than that of
milk. Indeed, many people regard it more as a luxury than as afibrding any
substantial nourishment like that obtained from meats or vegetables. Milk
is often used sparingly, under the impression that it must always be an ex-
pensive article of food, when in fact it is generally cheaper than any meats
that can be had in the market ; and we believe if its relative nutritive
value, as compared with beef, was more generally understood, it would be J
more largely consumed, as a matter of economy.
Good beef contains from fifty to sixty per cent, of water, and milk about
eighty-seven per cent. On an average, then, three pounds and a half of milk, i
or a little more than three pints by measure, are equal in nutrition to a *
pound of beef If the beef is Avorth twenty cents per pound, the milk, at ten
cents per quart, would be the cheaper food of the two. Dr. Bellows gives
the following analysis of several articles of food, in their natural state, from
which
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
13
THE RELATIVE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF MILK
may be readily compared. We place them in a table, as more convenient for
reference and comparison :
Nitrates.
CARBONATES.
Phosphates.
Wateu.
Milk of Cow
5.0
15.0
11.0
12.5
10.0
14
17
15K
8.0
30.0
35.0
40.0
50.0
very little.
very little,
uone.
1.0
5.0
3.5
3.5
1.5
5 to 6
5 to 6
4M
86
Beef
50
Lamb
50 5
Mutton
44
Pork
38 5
Codfish......
79
Trout
75
White of eggs
80
Of the nitrates, or flesh-forming elements, the beef contains just three
times that of the milk, while the carbonates, or respiratory and fat-producing
elements in the beef, are three and three-fourth times richer than the milk.
The solid constituents of the two, in a hundred parts, would be in milk
fourteen, and in beef fifty, or very nearly as one to three and one-half Con-
sequently, if both be represented in pounds, it would take three and one-half
pounds of milk to give the same amount of nutrition that is contained in one
pound of beef. In fish and eggs the difference would not be so great. Now
a quart of milk will weigh about thirty-six ounces, consequently the three
pints of milk by measure will weigh three pounds six ounces, representing
very nearly the equivalent in nutrition for a pound of beef. As there is
always more or less waste in beef, even after it is separated from the bone,
on account of muscle, tendons, cartilage and the like, which cannot be con-
sumed, the three pints of milk may be considered to rej)resent a fair equiva-
lent in nutrition for a pound of beef, exclusive of bone. On this assumption,
if a pound of beef, exclusive of bone, is worth twenty cents, milk should be
counted at a little over thirteen cents per quart, the exact figures being thir-
teen and one-third cents. But if we reckon the loss from bone which the
consumer takes with the meat, it will be seen the cost is considerably more,
which would by so much farther enhance the value of the milk. When milk
is selling at six cents per quart, beef, exclusive of bone, at nine cents per
pound would be the equivalent. It will be seen by carefully comparing the
analysis of milk and meats, and making the proper deductions on the latter
on account of waste, of bones, etc., that there is less difference between the
economical value of milk and beefsteak, or fish and eggs, than is commonly
supposed. Milk contains all the elements of nutrition, and is more whole-
some than meats like pork and veal, which are justly regarded with suspicion.
It should be more largely used in hot weather than it is, and especially in
the diet of children, as it supplies material for building up the bones and
muscles, which superfine flour, and butter and sugar, do not. It may not be
advisable to substitute milk wholly for meat in any system of diet. Still by
using smaller quantities of meat with which to make up the requisite propor-
tion of animal food, health would doubtless be greatly promoted, and at
14 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
much less expense, than where meat is exclusively used. The market value
of milk is generally very much below its nutritive equivalent m beef;
and those who are looking to economy in foods will do well to give this
question attention.
MTLK A'S A FOOD.
Professor Lton Playfair, in speaking of milk as a food, says :— " We
see how carefully nature has provided for the growth of the infant. In the
casein there is abundance of structural food for the building up of organs;
in the highly combustible fat or butter, and in the less carbonaceous sugars
we have a full supply of heat givers ; while in the mineral substances, bone
earth for the building up of the young skeleton, besides common salt, potash
salts, iron, silica, and every mineral ingredient that we find m the body. It
may be interesting to uiquire with regard to the typical food, what proportion
the structural materials bear to the respiratory or heat-giving substances.
For this purpose, we must convert both the butter and sugar into a common
value, and calculate them as if they were starch, which is the most common
heat-c^iving body in different kinds of food. Estimated m this way, the
quantity of heat-givers is three times greater than that of fiesh-formers. But
the nutrition of the young animal is in many respects different from that of
the adult In the case of the latter it is only necessary to supply the daily
waste of the tissues ; in the former it is also requisite to furnish materials for
the growing bodv, and also abundant fuel to maintain the higher temperature:
of the infant With this difference kept in view, all our efforts m diet ap-
pear to aim at imitating the typical food, milk, by adjusting a proper balance
between the flesh-formers, heat-givers, and mineral bodies. Thus with ai
flesh-forming aliment like beef or mutton, we take a rich heat-givmg one
like potatoes or rice. To fat bacon, abounding already in l^eat-givers, we
add beans, which compensate for its poverty in flesh-formers. With fowls ^
poor in fat, we consume ham, richin this combustible. Our appetites and
tastes become the regulators of food, and adjust the relative proportions of
its several ingredients; and until the appetite becomes depraved by mdul.
gence or disease, it is a safe guide in the selection of aliments."
MUSCLB-MAKIHTG FOOD.
The importance of using food containing a due proportion of muscle
making elements, or albuminoids, has been demonstrated in repeated experi
ments, when loss of vigor and health has followed a continual use of food
lacking in these elements. The experiments made in five prisons m Scotland
bear upon this point. They were made to ascertain the smallest amount of
food and the proportion of nitrates and carbonates, that would keep the
prisoner up to his weight while doing nothing, when it was found that by
reducing the proportion of nitrates in the food from four ounces to two and
three-quarter ounces daily the prisoners lost weight rapidly. Dr. Bellows
in commenting upon these experiments, which he gives m detail, says :
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 15
"It is a remarkable fact which shows the importance of connecting science
with practice, that the deterioration in the quality of the diet in Dundee
prison consisted in substituting molasses for milk, which had been previously
used with oatmeal porridge and oatmeal cakes, molasses being entirely
destitute of muscle-making material, while milk contains a full proportion of
these important principles. This one experiment and its results are worthy
of study by every mother and every housekeeper in the land. If any class of
persons would suffer less than others from the use of too much carbonaceous
and too little nitrogenous food, it would be that class who are idle ; and yet
the one hundred prisoners of Dundee, with an ounce more of the fat and
heat-making principle than those of Edinburgh, lost two hundred and seven-
teen and one-half pounds, while the same number in Edinburgh lost only
twenty-seven pounds; the difference in their diet being, as stated in the
report, that the prisoners of Edinburgh had milk with their porridge and
cakes, while those of Dundee had molasses instead."
And he remarks further : — " If the same experiment had been tried on
men in active life, or on -children who are never still except when asleep, the
result would have been more remarkable, in j^roportion to the greater waste
of muscle in those who are active, and the greater demand for nitrogenous
food ; and yet how few mothers stop to consider or take pains to know,
whether gingerbread made of fine flour, which has but a trace of food for
muscle or brain, and sugar or molasses, and perhaps butter, which have none,
or cakes made with unbolted wheat mixed with milk or buttermilk, all of
which abound in muscle and brain-feeding materials, is the best food for a
growing, active child ; indeed, the whole food of the child is given with the
same want of knowledge or consideration.
" But in view of these simple experiments in the Scotch j^risons, who can
doubt that a want of consideration of these principles of diet is the means of
consigning to the tomb many of our most promising children. An intelligent
farmer knows how to feed his land, his horses, his cattle and his pigs, but
not how to feed his children. He knows that fine flour is not good for pigs,
and he gives them the whole of the grain, or, perhaps, takes out the bran and
coarser part, which contains food for muscles and brains, and gives them to
his pigs, while the fine flour, which contains neither food for muscle or brain,
he gives to his children. He separates, also, the milk, and gives his pigs the
skim milk and buttermilk, in which are found all the elements for muscle and
brain, and gives his children the butter, which only heats them and makes
them inactive, without furnishing a particle of the nutriment which they need."
Milk and cheese are doubtless the cheapest forms of animal food that can
be had in our markets. They deserve to be more extensively used, and it is
very likely they would enter more largely into consumption were it not from
mistaken notions of economy, which exclude them from the table on the sup-
position that they are costly luxuries rather than healthful and nutritious
articles of food.
16 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Our country is vast, and of great diversity in soil and climate. New
England and the Middle States have long since ceased to be regarded as
the most favorable sections in which men of moderate means may engage
in grain farming. There is a tide of emigration sweeping westward;
there is another tide ebbing to the cities, and so the rural population in these
States is constantly decreasing. We live in an age of intense competitive
industry ; our people are impatient for gain ; and with a natural fondness for
adventure, and an eagerness for any change that holds out prospect of better-
ment, it is not strange that old landmarks are dying out among the farming
population of the North Atlantic States. I shall not stop now to discuss all
the causes which have led to this condition of things. It will suffice for the
present to name one,
THE MISDIEECTIOTS" OF THE USB OF LAND,
by failing to adopt the kind of farming suited to the peculiarities of soil and
climate. With a favorable climate, and the proper expenditure of money, by
the aid of science you may force an unpropitious soil to yield amj^le returns
in crops to which originally it was not well adapted. But temperature,
moisture and climatic influence are in a measure beyond our control.
Hence, with many disadvantages facing us at every step, we cannot compete
successfully in growing grain with those sections which have none of these to
contend with, but have everything in their favor. If we propose to grow
corn and make it a specialty, the rugged lands of New York and New Eng-
land will not present equal advantages with the fertile bottom and prairie
soils of the West. From the natural fertility of these soils, and from the ease
with which they may be cultivated, the Western farmer can put his surplus
grain in our markets at a price which compels us to sell at meager profits.
If we grow grain, therefore, it must be as an adjunct to some specialty,
which gives us decided advantages over other sections. The dairy is one oi
those branches from which the great bulk of lands in the United States bj
natural causes is excluded. To the farmer, then, whose lands are adapted
to dairying, it presents one of the most remunerative branches of agriculture
in which he can engage ; and it may well be a question whether the older
States, lying within the dairy belt we have named, and especially those of]
New England, with their established institutions and nearness to the bes
markets in the world, may not now present inducements to the agriculturist^!
through the channels of dairying second to no other sections in the Union.
THE PEOGEESS AND PEESENT MAGNITUDE OF THE DAIET INTEEBST OF THE
UNITED STATES
will be shown from the figures in the following tables, made up from official
sources, some of which have been printed in the Patent Office reports, and
reports of the Department of Agriculture :
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
17
The following statement shows the number of Milch Cows, for the years 1840 1850 and
1860, and their rehitions to the total popnlatiou for each period : '
States and Tebkitokies.
1840.
Ratio.
Alabama
Arkansas
California
Connecticut
Delaware
Florida
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Kentucky
Louisiana
Maine
Maryland
Massachusetts
Michigan
Minnesota
Mississippi
Missouri
New Hampshire . . .
New Jersey
New York
North Carolina
Oliio
Oregon
Pennsylvania
Rhode Island
South Carolina
Tennessee
Texas
Vermont
Virginia
Wisconsin
District of Columbia
Dakota
Nebraska
New Mexico
Utah
Washington
Nevada
Total
189,043
40,981
4,280
74,395
17,189
47,395
376,557
157,140
212,618
9,485
210,554
74,006
120,430
75,203
110,655
55,189
127,731
136,632
88,218
97,060
752,966
188,355
486,229
431,668
15,236
184,263
223,887
151,814
285,153
6,808
874
4,837,043
.32
.42
.05
.24
.22
.87
.40
.33
.31
.22
.27
.21
.24
.16
.15
.26
.34
.33
.81
.26
.31
.25
.32
.25
.14
.31
.27
.52
.23
.22
.02
.28
1850.
227,791
93,151
4,280
85,461
19,248
72,876
334,223
294,671
284,554
45,704
247,475
105,576
133,556
86,856
130,099
99,676
607
214,331
230,169
94,277
118,736
931,324
231,799
544,499
9,427
530,224
18,698
193,244
250.456
217,811
146,128
817,619
64,339
813
10,635
4,861
Ratio.
1860.
6,385,094
.30
.45
.05
.23
.21
.83
.37
.35
.29
.24
.25
.20
.23
.15
.13
.25
.10
.35
.34
.30
.24
.30
.25
.28
.71
.23
.13
.29
.35
1.03
.47
.23
.31
.03
.17
.43
-37
330,537
171,003
305,407
98,877
33,595
93,974
399,688
533,634
363,553
189,803
28,550
269,215
139,663
147,314
99,463
144,493
179,543
40,344
207,646
345,243
94,880
138,818
1,123,634
228,633
676,585
53,170
673,547
19,700
163,938
349,514
601,540
174,667
330,713
303,001
639
386
6,995
34,369
11,967
9,660
947
Ratio.
.34
.86
.65
.31
.20
.66
.28
.31
.36
.28
.25
.23
.18
.23
.14
.12
.27
.23
.26
.29
.29
.21
.29
.23
.30
1.01
.23
.11
.23
.23
.99
.54
.31
.25
.01
.11
.25
.43
.33
.90
8,581,735
.28
ARE THE FIGURES CORRECT.''
In absence of the last official census I'eport, not yet printed for distri-
bution, we take the statistics of 1870 from abstract of census returns of 1869,
as given in the Tribune Almanac, and which purports to be a correct copy of
the official returns. It must be evident, however, that the butter and cheese
products are here put very much below the actual make, for it will be
observed that the amounts are but little in excess of those made in 1860.
Now it is well known that the increase in Dairy Farming since 1860 has
been very large, and has been carried into neAV districts, while the increase of
more than two millions two hundred and eighty thousand cows must plainly
2
18
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
indicate a larger increase in dairy products than is here represented. In
the last of the two subjoined tables the statistics are given in such form that
the whole may be readily understood and compared.
The following table shows the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and
Clieese, made in the United States, in the vear 1869, according to the census of
. 1870:
States.
Milch Cows. Pounds of Cheese. Pounds Butteb.
Alabama
Arkansas
Califoi'nia
Connecticut
Delaware
Florida
Georgia
Illinois
Indiana
Iowa
Kansas
Kentucky
Louisiana ,
Maine
Maryland
Massachusetts ,
Michigan
Minnesota
Mississippi
Missouri
Nebraska
New Hampshire
New Jersey
New York
North Carolina
Ohio
Oregon
Pennsylvania
Rhode Island
South Carolina
Tennessee
Texas
Vermont
Virginia
West Virginia
Wisconsin
Nevada and Territories
Total
270,537
15,923
190,500
16,810
1,330,800
1,343,689
99,350
3,898,411
24,198
6,579
99,108
5,280
301,180
15,578
850,340
1,848,557
390,450
605,795
201,740
918,635
41,310
29,045
280,191
190,400
148,320
6,153
190,110
1,799,862
100,030
8,342
160,220
5,294,090
198,580
1,641,897
60,740
199,314
300,101
4,427
390,120
259,633
24,342
99,540
2,323,092
149,450
182,172
1,980,300
48,548,289
301,102
51,119
960,322
21,618,893
79,312
105,379
873,212
2.508,556
23,180
181,511
171,480
1,543
260,190
135,575
640,302
275,128
190,420
8,215,030
401,860
280,852
Included in Va.
250,312
1,104,300
10,500,000
11,008,925
114.154,211
6,028,478
4,067,556
3,095,035
7,620,912
1,430,502
408,855
5,439,765
28,052,551
18,306,651
11,953,666
1,093,497
11,716,609
1,444,742
11,687,781
5,265,295
8,297,936
15,503,482
2,957,673
5,006,610
12,704,837
604,541
6,956,764
10,714,447
103,097,280
4,735,495
48,543,163
1,000,157
58,653,511
1,021,767
3,177,934
10,017,787
5,850,583
15,900,359
13,464,723
Included in Va.
13,611,328
11,100.000
470,536,468
The following table gives the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and
Cheese, manufactured during each of the years ending the successive decades ac-
cording to the United States census reports of 1840, 1850, 1860 and 1870: '
Milch Cows.
Value of Daiet Products.
1840.
4,837,043
$33,787,008
Milch Cows.
Pounds Butter. | Pounds Cheese.
1850.
1860.
1870.
6,385,094
8,581,735
11 008,925
313,345,306
459,681,372
470.536,468
105,535,893
103,663,927
114,154,211
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
19
Table showing the number of Milch Cows, quantity of BuUer made and amount of
Cheese and Milk sold in the State of New York, according to Census of 1865 :
Counties.
Milch
1864, I
Cows.
1S65.
Albany
Allegany. . . .
Broome
Cattaraugus. .
Cayuga
Chautauqua. .
Chemung.. . .
Chenango....
Clinton
Columbia. . . .
Cortland
Delaware. ...
Dutchess. ...
Erie
Essex
Franklin
Fulton
Genesee
Greene
Hamilton. ...
Herkimer ...
Jefferson ,
Kings
Lewis
Livingston.. . ,
Madison
Monroe
Montgomer_v.
New York. . ,
Niagara
Oneida ,
Onondaga. .. ,
Ontario
Orange .-.
Orleans
Oswego
Otsego
Putnam
Queens
Rensselaer. . .
Richmond. . .
Rockland
St. Lawrence.,
Saratoga
Schenectady .
Schoharie
Schujder
Seneca
Stuben
Suffolk
Sullivan
Tioga
Tompkins. . . .
Ulster
Warren
Washington. .
Wayne
Westchester. .
Wyoming
Yates
11,080
20,798
22,178
34,208
21,291
42,703
10,889
46,734
12 603
12,266
29,295
45,217
20,114
34,441
9,004
15,847
10,234
9,193
13,350
1,082
46,627
56,551
4,023
30,848
10,880
29,093
15,058
20,269
79
11,793
60,648
24,861
13,634
40,021
7,136
29,503
41,226
8,336
7,628
15,405
1,195
3,610
65,262
15.148
5,374
19,461
7,320
6,496
24,172
8,538
13,487
14,109
15,878
18,561
6,016
17,315
14,256
16,719
19,499
6,919
10,615
18,525
20,696
30,559
21,794
40,008
9,647
41,459
13,968
11,942
31,920
38,525
20,014
31,851
9,219
15,804
9,974
9,009
12,059
1,043
45,461
55,198
4,030
30,639
10,605
28,995
14,962
19,903
86
11,860
58,417
23,730
13,411
40,096
7,197
28,393
36,040
8,426
7,893
14,302
1,191
3,658
65,286
14,583
5,118
16,506
6,897
6,470
22,785
9,057
12,667
12,672
14,575
18,226
5,874
16,863
14,229
17,154
18,329
6,828|
Pounds of
BuTTEK Made.
1864.
Pounds op
Cheese Sold.
1864.
Gallons of
Milk Sold.
1864.
1,066,196
1,655,776
2,291,268
2,412,223
2,208,049
105,205
105,345
4,042,336
946,725
965,064
2,683,773
5,052,295
1,358,573
1,558,573
654,174
1,226,598
706,612
763,082;^
1,327,054
96,174
953,118
3,100,234
16,315
1,663,950
1,052,804
1,569,342
1,374,890
1,035,7311^
966,286
2,868,740
2,149,141
1,110,592
2,363,6613^
804,209^
1,988,0603^
2,811,199
272,924
424,063^/
1,144,726
23,575
231,231
5,417,779
1,323,024
514,607
1,978,640
737,673
690,428
2,261,034
596,189
1,195,868
1,432,650
1,676,823
1,547,217
478,0853^
1,817,397
1,320,004
525,032
1,279,761
642,324
20,783
1,325,748
113,922
3,635,356
205,155
2,105,642
21,747
2,552,066
100,020
23,447
2,074,155
35,519
11,599
3,344,734
96,255
125,732
991,002
80,263
16,961
1,855
13,893,801
5,348,615
4,755,643
101,417
3,452,682
69,044
4,207,006
52,260
8,108,540
1,844,326
119,357
132,575
59,598
2,383,806
3,335,144
1,155
528,133
650
2,922,001
185,161
82,064
143,641
32,948
12,331
291,185
1,030
12,316
49.655
885,697
1,060
71,139
807,374
90,591
186
1,801,781
30,084j
464,885
250
41,385
12,513
91.511
73,085
84,449
11,653
6,300
231,130
715
6,046
8,964,574
489,206
970
1,100
1,084
104,623
2,193
100
17,686
278,237
444,530
138,126
38,233
13,506
858,400
7,885
12,650
25,889
191,698
262,946
32,020
8,835,0523^
75
69,151
18,279
2,841,453
929,131
556,688
4,793
215,884
119,187
115,556
118,094
4,235
8,500
21,894
22,485
22,330
89,928
604
81,167
134,099
17,485
21,819
47,305
3,928,845
43,407
10,551
Total I 1,195,481] 1,147,251] 84,584,458] 72,195,837] 39,631,5303^
20
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
As a basis foi' estimating the probable production, the following table
will be useful:
This table shows the total produce of Milk in thirteen States, for the year ending June 30,
1860, and also the quantity used for food, and the amount manufactured into Butter
and Cheese for each State :
States.
Milch
Cows.
NUMBEE.
Total
Produce.
Quarts.
Used as Food.
Man'factur'd
Butter.
Quarts.
Manufac-
tured
Cheese.
Quarts.
Maine
New Hampshire
Vermont
Massachusetts.. .
lihode Island
Connecticut
New York
Pennsylvania. . .
New Jersey
Delaware
Maryland
Wisconsin
Virginia
Total
147,314
94,880
174,667
144,492
19,700
98,877
1,123,634
673,547
138,818
22,595
99,463
203,001
330,713
265,165,200
170,784,000
309,056,400
260,085,600
35,460,000
177,978,600
,022,521,400
,212,384,600
249,872,400
40,671,000
170,033,400
349,192,800
595,128,600
112,013,085
75,052,328
81,288,157
135,555,626
21,570,272
63,585,989
543,030,641
553,828,525
109,868,653
22,763,870
96,286,486
174,214,114
405,561,119
146
86
196
103
13
99
,288
648
139
17
73
170
188
097,262
.959,550
022,925
724,200
,193,128
,071,856
,695,987
,697,450
,287,811
,881,275
,714,130
638,162
,463,968
3,281,701 5,858,334,000 2,394,618,865 3,172,447,704 291,267,431
7,054,853
8,772,122
31,745,318
20,805,774
696,600
15,320,755
190,794,772
9,858,625
715,936
25,855
32,784
4,340,524
1,103,513
According to these statistics fifty-four per cent, of the entire produce was
made into butter. Now, on this basis, if we take one thousand eight hundred
quarts of milk as the annual product on an average for each cow, and
eighteen (1 8) quarts as the average quantity of milk required for a pound of
butter, then the eleven millions and nine thousand cows of 1870 would
yield, if their milk was all made into butter, one billion one hundred
million pounds ; and if fifty-four per cent, of this is the actual product of the
country, as is represented in the table for 1860, then we have the butter
product of 1870 represented by neai'ly six hundred million pounds. But we
think it may be safely estimated at more than this. The report of the Amer-
ican Dairymen's Association for 1870, gives a list of nearly one thousand one
hundred cheese factories. The list is very incomplete, as it is well known
that there are a much larger number ; but this list alone, at an average of
four hundred cows to the factory, would embrace nearly a half million of
cows. There are a large number of farms scattered over the country, where
cheese manufacture is carried on at the farm, and if the number of cows so
employed be added to the number belonging to factories not reported, there
can be but little doubt but that the whole number employed for cheese dairy-
ing would be swelled to eight himdred thousand cows. At three hundred
pounds of cheese to the cow, we should have the product of 1870, amounting
to two hundred and forty million pounds.
Now, according to the table for 1860, forty-one per cent, of the milk
product is consumed directly as food, fifty-four per cent, is made into butter,
and five per cent, is made into cheese. Therefore we find that, allowing five
quarts of milk to the pound of cheese, and taking five per cent, of the gross
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 21
amount of milk, the cheese product of 1870 would amoimt to nearly two
hundred million pounds, and this too on the basis that ratios are the same in
1870 as 1860. We may remark here that
THE ANNUAL AVERAGE PRODUCT OF COWS
in our estimate, (viz., — three hundred and sixty pounds of cheese per head ;
or, if the milk is made into butter, one hundred pounds of butter per head,)
is considered only a fair average annual jDroduct. These estimates of the
present annual cheese product correspond very nearly with the quantity
estimated by those who have kept statistics in regard to this branch of
industry. They put the whole product of cheese made in 1869 at two
hundred and forty million pounds. If anything more was needed to show
THE INACURACY OF THE CENSUS RETURNS
of 1869 as here reported, we might refer to the cheese product of ISTew York
for that year in the table which is put at forty-eight million five hundred and
forty-eight thousand two hundred and eighty-nine pounds, when according to
the New York census returns of 1864 the quantity of cheese made in the
State that year for sale and exclusive of what was consumed in families of
farmers amounted to seventy-two million one hundred and ninety-five thou-
sand three hundred and thirty-seven poimds. Cheese dairying in New York
since 1864 has been largely increased.
From the incomplete retui-ns published in the report of the American
Daiiymen's Association for 1870, we find eight hundred and twenty-five
factories given, and if each averaged three hundred cows they would make
a total of two hundred and forty-seven thousand cows. If we estimate four
hundred pounds of cheese to the cow as the average product, the gross make of
cheese at these factories would amount to ninety-eight million eight hundred
thousand pounds. In view of all the facts in my possession, I feel warranted in
placing the butter product of the United States and Territories during 1870
at more than six hundred million pounds, and the cheese product at two
hundred and forty million pounds. The table, on next page, given by Dr.
LooMis in the Patent Ofiice report of 1861, will be of interest, as showing
THE PER CENTAGE OP MILK CONSUMPTION, PREVIOUS TO 1861, IN THIRTEEN
STATES.
" It is worthy of notice," he says, " that but five States, viz., New
Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York, use over
three per cent, of their milk for cheese, and that all south of Pennsylvania
use less than one per cent. Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Maryland
produce the least in proportion to their population ; Vermont, New Hamp-
shire, New York and Wisconsin produce the most in proportion to their
population. Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and
Maryland, consume the least in proportion to their population. Virginia
consumes as food nearly seventy per cent, of the entire milk product of that
State ; Rhode Island over sixty per cent., and Maryland, Delaware, Massa-
22
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
chusetts and Wisconsin over fifty per cent, of the product of the States
severally. New York and Vermont manufacture into butter nearly two-
thirds of their entire milk product. But one State, Virginia, uses less than
one-third of its milk in the manufacture of butter. Rhode Island uses the
largest per centage in the manufacture of cheese ; New York the largest per
centage in butter ; and Virginia the largest per centage as food. Virginia
uses the smallest per centage in butter and cheese, and Vermont the least
per centage as food.
This table shows the per centage of Milk consumed as food, and manufactured into Butter
and Cheese. Also, the average produce in quarts to each person, and the average
amount each consumed :
States.
Maine
New Hampsiiire.
Vermont
Massachusetts. . .
Rhode Island . . .
Connecticut
New York
Pennsylvania . . .
New Jersey
Delaware
Maryland
Wisconsin
Virginia
Consumed.
Pek Cent.
BUTTEK.
Pek Cent.
42
.55
44
.50
26
.63
52
.40
61
.37
35
.56
27
.64
46
.53
44
.55-1-
56—
.44—
57—
.43—
50
.48
68-1-
.31-1-
Manufac-
TUBED
Cheese.
Pek Cent.
.03
.06
.11
.08
.02
.09
.09
.01
.01-
.01-
.01-
.02
.01-
Average
Produce to
Each Person.
Quarts.
Average
Consumed
BY Each
Person.
Quarts.
422
524
980
211
203
287
520
417
372
362
247
463
373
177
230
255
110
124
135
140
193
163
203
141
232
254
" The average amount consumed daily by each individual, taking the
whole thirteen States, is one pint. The greatest average daily consumed by
each person is 1.6 pint in Vermont and Virginia. The least average daily
consumed by each person is 0.6 of a pint in Massachusetts.
Dr. LooMis gives the following table, showing the quantity of Milk received in the city
of New York, at the depots of the Erie, Harlem and Long Island Railroad compa-
nies, for the year ending June 30, 1861 :
Months.
Harlem K. R.
Quarts.
Erie E. E.
Quarts.
Long Island
E. E.
Quarts.
Total.
Quarts.
July
August
September. ,
October
November. ,
December . ,
January
February. . ,
March
April
May
June
Total
2,816,720
2,657,150
2,399,410
2,320,610
2,057,570
2,068,320
2,061,730
1,853,080
2,169,590
2,203,010
2,436,800
2.463,090
2,743,750
2,636,880
2,225,800
1,959,740
1,715,128
1,564,670
1,547,630
1,474,150
1,788,910
1,944,770
2,320,670
2,492,510
282,530
286,250
265,190
269,890
267,890
262,660
260,010
266,740
275,840
286,180
301,900
301,650
27,507,080
24,414.608 3.326,730
5,843.000
5,580,280
4,890,400
4,550,240
4,040,588
3,895,650
3,869,370
3,593,970
4,234,340
4,433,960
5,059,370
5,257,250
55,248,418
In 1861 thirty thousand six hmidred and ninety-four cows were required
Practical Dairy Husbandry,
23
to supply the milk transported to New York city on the Harlem, Erie
and Long Island Kailroads. The average annual cost of transport was five
hundred and fifty-two thousand four hundred and eighty-four dollars, and
the cost of milk as received for transportation was one million one hundred
and four thousand nine hundred and sixty-eight dollars annually. We have
no statistics at hand to show the quantity of milk used in New York city
for the year 1870, but the quantity and its cost must be very much greater
than in 1861.
VALUE OF THE MILK CROP IN 1860.
Dr. LooMis says : — " The value cf the milk crop may be very fairly
estimated from the value of milk used in the manufacture of butter. Fifty-
four per cent, of the entire crop in the thirteen States before named is made
into butter ; hence, the value of butter forms a very correct basis for ascer-
taining the true value of milk. In the following table the prices of milk given
for each State has been derived by taking the average prices given for the
cost value of butter at the places where it is made, and extended over a
period of twelve years.
The localities were selected from various sections of each State. This
method was pursued with all the States except Wisconsin, which extended
over a period of only three years.
He adds : — " I am aware that these values, with the exception of Dela-
ware, fall below the generally estimated value of milk, yet I am confident
that if there is any variation from the true value, it is that I have over-esti-
mated them."
The value of milk in the United States in 1860, or befoi'e the war, he
thought would average less than one cent and five mills per quart.
He says : — " The following table is a correct statement of the value of
milk per quart ; the total value of the crop ; together with the value of the
amount consumed in each of the named States :
States.
Pbicb per Quart
Cents.
Value Consumed.
Total Value.
Maine
New Hampshire.
Vermont
Massachusetts. . .
Rhode Island
Connecticut
New York
Pennsylvania. . . ,
New jersey
Delaware
Maryland
Wisconsin
Virginia
1.36
1.44
1.28
1.68
1.64
1.60
1.36
1.28
1.76
2.00
1.20
1.48
1.13
$1,523
1,080
1,040
2,277
353
1,017
7,385
7,089
1,933
455
1,155
■ 2,578
4,542
377 96
,753 52
,488 41
,334 52
,752 46
,375 82
,216 72
005 12
,688 29
277 40
,437 83
,368 89
,284 53
Total.
$32,432,361 47
$3,606,246 72
2,459,289 60
3,955,921 92
4,369,438 08
518,544 00
2,847,657 60
27,506,291 04
15,518,522 88
4,396,754 24
813,420 00
2,040,400 80
5,160,053 44
6,665,440 32
$79,857,980 64
With the above tables as a basis, it was estimated that the entire milk
24 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
crop of the United States for the year 1860, exceeded $160,000,000, or as
follows :
Amount consumed as food, $90,000,000
Amount manufactured into butter, 65,000,000
Amount manufactured into cheese, 5,000,000
Total, $160,000,000
The additional value produced by the manufacture and transportation of
butter and cheese he estimates will make the value of the crop for the year
1860, exceed $200,000,000. The estimate is made on the value of milk at
1.48 cent per quart. At two cents per quart the value of the dairy would be
upwards of 260,000,000.
MILK PRODUCT OF 1870.
Now if we proceed upon the above basis in estimating the entire milk
crop of 1870, taking its increase of quantity and advanced prices, we shall
have the following.
Milk consumed as food, say 40 per cent, of wLole product, at 2
cents per quart $170,400,000
600,000,000 pounds of butter, at 30 cents, 180,000,000
240,000,000 pounds of cheese, at 12 cents, 28,800,000
Total, $379,200,000
This is below the estimate made by Commissioner Wells in his Report
upon the " Industry, Trade and Commerce of the United States," for the
year 1869. He puts the value of dairy products of the United States at
$400,000,000 per annum. It will be seen, then, that the diary has become
an important branch of National Industry.
DAIRY FARMS AND FIXTURES.
In Dairy Farming the first thing, natiirally, to be considered is the farm.
Reference has been made to the importance of a suitable climate as one of
the requisites to success. Experience and experiment must of course deter-
mine what our several localities are best adapted to ; but it is certain that
much of the land in this Northern belt is well adapted for making butter and
cheese. Its climate is comparatively cool, and that is a matter of great mo-
ment in securing dairy products of fine flavor and quality. With its showers
and dews, pure water and fresh sweet feed, it answers the description of a
good dairy country, which the warmer and drier Southern and Western lati-
tudes do not. I am satisfied there is no branch of farming in this Northern
belt that will sufl'er less from outside competition than dairying, and hence,
where locality favors it nothing in the long run will pay better.
PERMANENT PASTURES.
But climate may be favorable and locality unfavorable for the dairy. We
must consider whether the lands are naturally adapted to grass, or that pas-
tures at least may be made enduring, and that the farm is well provided with
an abundance of pure water.
These two points are very essential to success. I refer to pastures, in dis-
tinction from meadows, because a rotation of crops may be adopted on arable
land, so that sufiicient hay may be produced, where the natural condition of
the soil would not continue to be productive of grass from year to year,
during long periods. But pastures should be of a character to be made
enduring, for a variety of reasons which I shall presently notice.
SIZE OF HEEDS.
The question is often asked, how large a number of cows can be kept
profitably in one herd ? or, rather, what is the limit to the number that will
yield the best average returns as a dairy ? I have taken some pains to get
the opinion of practical dairymen, both in this country and in Europe, on this
question ; and it seems to be the universal expression of those who have
given the matter attention, that, in their experience, sixty cows are about the
limit, or maximum number. If we take pains to look up the largest average
yield of dairies in the country, we shall find, almost invariably, that they are
among the small herds numbering from twenty to forty cows.
26 Practical Daiby Husbandry.
Very large herds become unwieldy. They are more subject to disease, and
a larger number of accidents in proportion, than smaller herds. In driving
to and fro in the pasture, there is more excitement or worry, which operates
to lessen the average quantity of milk. There is also a greater proportion of
farrow, or abortive stock in such herds, hence in New York, dairymen who
have large farms, prefer to divide them up, making their dairies number from
thirty to fifty cows each. ■
DIVIDING HERDS.
I found this condition of things prevailing in the dairy districts of Eng-
land and Scotland, and I therefore conclude that herds having a larger num-
ber than sixty cows are not to be generally recommended. If it is desired,
however, to keep a larger number, I should advise that the cows be pastured
in separate herds of say thirty each, and that they be milked and wintered in
separate stables, allowing no communication among the several branches.
In some instances, I have seen dairies of a hundred cows, divided up into
two herds of fifty each, and good results were obtained. The herds were
milked and wintered in one barn, but in stables opposite or adjoining each
other, and so arranged that the cows of the different herds could have no
communication with each other whatever.
This fact in relation to the size of herds it is important to understand ;
since large losses have been made by persons who have tried the herding of
a large number of animals together for dairy purposes.
TElSrCING.
There is another point of considerable economy in the management of
dairy farms, often overlooked even by old and experienced dairymen, and this
is in regard to fences. In New York it is daily becoming a problem of
increasing interest where we are to obtain our fences. All sorts of hedges
are recommended, but who has ever seen a good one in New England or New
York ! — one that will stand the test of every day practical utility in turning
stock ? In England they are easily enough produced, and so are pastures.
A humid atmosphere, frequent showers, frosts so light as not to injure grass
in winter or even render it unfit for the sustenance of sheep ordinarily, even
in mid-winter. Absence of our fervid heats of summer, and during summer
many more hours of daylight render any comparison between that country and
cur own in the way of growing hedges, of doubtful character. But few per-
sons, I imagine, have even sat down to fairly estimate
THE EXPENSE OF FENCING THE FARMS OF A STATE.
It has been vaguely estimated that 140,000,000 would not fence the farms
of New York. But to fence one hundred acres of land with only four lots
require nearly eight hundred rods of fence, which, at $1.50 per rod, would
cost $1,200. Now deduct one-third of this for the fencing of the contiguous
farms, and we have |800 per hundred acres for the cost of board fences. A
town— after rejecting poor land— of say one hundred such farms, would cost
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 27
$30,000, and a county of twenty such towns the enormous sum of at least
$1,500,000. Multiply that by the number of counties in a State and see what
an immense sum we arrive at. The corollory is a safe one that the fences of
IsTew York cost more than the Erie Canal or the Central Railroad. At least
one-third of these fences are of no earthly use, but on the contrary, it can be
proved, are a serious damage.
Upon dairy forms, therefore where it is practicable, the farm should have
but one line of interior fence. Immense sums are thrown away by the farm-
ers of the country in
USELESS SMALL ENCLOSURES,
It is not necessary to go into the exact details of cost in erecting a substan-
tial fence, dividing a farm into ten acre lots. This in the outset is a heavy
outlay of capital and labor, but the burthen of repairing must be carried
from year to year. Division lines between farms should always be marked
with good substantial barriers. Where stone are plenty upon the farm, they
are perhaps well employed in division or line fences, but it is hardly advisable
to use them for interior barriers, especially such as may require to be removed
from time to time.
In early times when timber was plenty, and forests to be cleared, the
expense of fencing a farm was of not so much account as now. Then a
selection of timber could be made and a thousand rails split, with but a trifle
more labor than a quarter that number from the cullings of the present wood
lot of the farm. Timber among the early settlers was considered of very
little value. Now it is costly, and the farmer who has much fence to build
must study economy in material as well as in labor, and even under the best
management he finds the expense burthensome. The division of a dairy
farm into numerous small enclosures, I regard as poor economy, and in many
ways objectionable.
The generality of fences upon American farms, to say the least, are
unsightly. Besides the first expense and labor of keeping them in repair,
they occupy too much land, and are a harbor for weeds and bushes, and
briars ; all of which must be put down as serious objections.
I know there are men who claim great advantages for small enclosures,
and who regard five, eight, or ten aci-e lots as almost indispensable in their
farming operations. I do not propose to argue points with them, but simply
suggest that the cost of fencing such enclosures for ten years be figured, and
compared with the advantages claimed. In most instances, I think, the
balance sheet will be a strong argument against the fences. Of course some
small enclosures may be necessary, such as that for the vegetable garden, the
orchard, &c. I do not object to these, but to the extending of them over
the whole farm. Upon half the farms in the old States, it would pay the
occupants to
EMPLOY AN EXPERIENCED ENGINEER,
to make a careful survey of the farm and establish the location of fences.
Let the farmer make a plain statement of the character of farming he is
28 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
about to follow, his actual necessities upon the farm, requiring of the fence
engineer a reduction of the fences to the lowest possible point. I am very
certain that the fences on most farms may be so arranged as to afford ample
convenience, and yet be largely reduced as to length. The necessity of
building strong and high fences along the road-side is not so imperative now
as formerly. There is a law in many of the States against cattle running at
large in the highways, which ought to be enacted in all the States and put in
force in every neighborhood.
THE LOG AKD EAIL FENCES
of the early settlers, have both had their day. Neither is to be recommended,
except perhaps in heavily wooded regions, where timber is of little value. l|
In old districts they must soon pass away, since timber is becoming scarce
and land is too valuable to be wasted by this character of barrier. They are
very objectionable in plowing, and even upon dairy farms when such a fence
divides pasture and meadow, considerable more expense is required to do
the mowing, as the machine cannot run into the corners, which must be
trimmed by hand. Besides, as was remarked at the outset, they are a harbor
for weeds and bushes, since they are more liable to be left uncut, than when
the fences are straight, and there are no corners to prevent obstructions, as
the woi'k goes on. It should be remembered that we do not fence against
the strength of cattle ; for if our animals Avere so inclined, they would break
down nearly all the wooden fences which we build. What Ave seek in the
construction of interior farm fences, is to build a barrier that Avill appear
formidable to cattle, of sufficient strength to resist ordinary storms of wind,
and the occasional contact from cattle rubbing against it. It should be so
high that cattle cannot reach over it, so compact that they cannot get their
heads through it, and so near the ground that they cannot get under it.
MOVEABLE PANELS.
For surrounding patches of land that require breaking up and cultivating,
and to be returned again to grass an effectual barrier can be erected at much
less expense for labor and material than the heavy post and board fence
commonly recommended. There are various forms of moveable panels,
easily erected and taken down and removed from place to place, which are
of great practical utility and economy upon dairy farms. Some of our New
York dairy farmers find the picket fence the most formidable barrier to
cattle, of all the kinds of wooden fence in use.
A LIGHT FENCE
of this description, and which has been found to be an ample protection
against stock, for patches of grain, vegetables, &c., recommended by Mr. S. S.
Whiteman of Herkimer, is constructed as folloAvs : — The pickets are four feet
long, two inches wide and five-eights of an inch thick. They are nailed three
inches apart on the rails, or seventeen pickets to the rod. The rails are ten
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 29
feet long, two inches wide and one and a half inches thick, three rails to a
panel ; that is — a rail at top and bottom, and the third rail running
diagonally between the other two in the form of a brace. In making these
panels a frame or skeleton form is constructed arranged with wooden pins,
so as to se-jDarate the various pieces the desired distance apart.
The top and bottom rails are then dropped into their apj)ropriate places,
the pickets arranged between the pins, where they are rapidly nailed with
five-penny nails. After the skeleton frame is once constructed, these panels
may be speedily made. The pickets do not cover the ends of the rails, a
space being left for lapping the panels together, when they are to be set up
in the fence. The method of putting the fence up is to let the rails of one
section overlap the rails of the other at the point where they are joined
together ; the sections being suj^ported at the right height from the ground
by a stone or block. Then a stake about the size of a common hand spike, is
driven down on each side of the lapping sections, and supporting block, and
the top of the stakes fastened together with wire. These panels can be
easily loaded on a wagon rack and removed from place to place as needed.
DIGGING POST HOLES.
Line fences and that separating the pasture and madow may be of a more
permanent character. When posts are to be set, the holes can be dug
expeditiously after the following method : — First, strike a line and mark off
the distances between the posts, sticking small stakes about four inches from
the line. Then make the center of the hole opposite the stakes. The digger
stands faceing the line of fence, making the hole the width of the spade at
the line, and slanting towards him as he digs, while all the other sides are
perpendicular. This slant enables the digger to lower the handle of his spade
and bring up a full spadeful, enabling him to do the work easily and
expeditiously.
BOAKD FENCE.
There are various ways of making board fence. When boards sixteen
feet long are used, they may be six inches wide and one inch thick. The
posts then should be set seven and a-half feet apart. Fasten the boards at
each end with a seven inch spike and a two and a half inch slat, resting the
boards on the spikes. The lap on each end of the boards should be six inches.
At the middle post, as there is no lap, a six inch spike may be used. If
the boards used are but thirteen feet long, they should be one and a-fourth
inches thick, and the middle post may be omitted. By ushig slats, and
allowing the boards to rest on spikes, rather than driving them through the
boards, they are less liable to decay, while the panels may be easily
removed as occasion may require. The question of
ECONOMY IN" FENCING
does not receive the attention which it deserves among farmers. The cost
of fencing farms, and their repair year after year is enormous. It would be
well if we could look forward to something more tasteful than the rail
30 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
structures, which disfigure the country at every hand. We must get in the
way of doing work ii. a more economical way. As we grow older as a
nation, structures, whether they be in buildings or fences, must inevitably be
improved. It would be better that we begin at once since much money^
would in the end be saved. I
CHANGE OF PASTURES. ■
I have endeavored to show the importence of economy in the matter of
fencing, and it may be well perhaps in this connection to name some of the
practicle results of the plan recommended. The practice which obtains with
some of dividing the pasturage into separate fields, and changing the herd
every week or two from field to field is now generally disapproved of by our
best dairymen.
Cows confined to one field are more quiet and contented. They will
usually go over in the course of the day every portion of the field, selecting
their food, and when filled they lie down to rest, and manufacture grass into
milk. All extra labor, excitement and gluttinous feeding from an over
stimulated appetite lessens the quantity of milk. Everything about the
" every day pasture '' is familiar, and if food is abundant, they have no
thought beyond leisurely taking their meals, and reclining at ease on some
favorite spot, ruminating or dozing over their " knitting work " as it has
been aptly termed— no shadow of discontent clouding their peaceful and
seemingly happy existance.
But let a bite of grass in new fields be had and all this is changed. They
over-feed, and in consequence their health is more or less deranged ; they
tramp around in every nook and corner of the field in search of dainties-
become restless and discontented, and not unfrequently some of the more
active and enterprising members of the herd, try fences and make excursions
mto fields of grain and prohibited crops. I have seen herds with one or two
unruly disposed members, though perfectly quiet and orderly while confined
to one pasture, become so restless and discontented from a change to new
fields, as to be exceedingly troublesome and cause serious losses.
There are other reasons. The pastures will not be so uniformly cropped ;
large portions will get a rank growth, be rejected by stock, and therefore
afl^ord less nutritious food through the season, than when used as one
pasture.
FKESH PASTURES PRODUCE SCOURS.
Fresh pastures are more apt to produce scours, as is well known
derangn)g the appetite and health to a greater extent than when confined to
one field. The argument generally used in favor of two pastures, is that the
daily trampmg of the cattle on the one pasture renders, the food less fresh'
and palatable, and that the alternate pastures obviate this, giving time for
grass to grow, thus producing more food and better results. The conclusion
arrived at, is not true in fact. Stock when turned into a new pasture do not
rest till they have roamed over and examined every part of it, and will tramp
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 31
down, soil, and destroy more food than if the same land was in one pastm-e,
thereby really affording or rendering available to the herd, a less amount oi
nutritious food during the season. Cattle, it is true, like
A CHANGE OF FOOD,
but this change should exist in the varieties of grass in the same pasture, and
not in different . fields. Of course the aftermath and gleanings from grain
fields are to be consumed by stock in fall, as deemed expedient, but the sum-
mer pasture should be one field, as productive of more milk with less trouble,
expense and loss.
PASTURES SHOULD NOT BE OYBRSTOCKED.
Pastures, it is proper to say, should not be overstocked — the supply of food
must be abundant, otherwise serious losses will be incurred. There is nothing
gained by stocking clear up to, or a little beyond, the full capacity of the land,
and trusting to an extraordinary good growing season to bring the animals
through.
Much milk will require a proportionate amount of food, and I have yet to
see the cow miserly kept on scanty fare, that can turn that fare into a large
dairy product. The rule should be, the largest quantity and best quality of
dairy products per cow, and not the largest number of cows without thought
or care as to the respective quantity or quality of milk from each.
DAIRY BARNS.
An important requisite in Dairy farming is to have a convenient barn.
Indeed, of so much practical importance is this, that I must treat the subject
at considerable length. A handy barn for a grain farm is a very different
structure from what is needed on a dairy farm. Dairymen of experience
affirm that a convenient dairy barn on a farm carrying fifty cows, will save an
annual expense in labor of at least |200 over the structures in use twenty
years ago, and, indeed, over those Avhich are largely in use at the present day.
THE MODERN DAIRY BARN
began to be erected in the old dairy districts of New York about ten years
ago, and it is a matter of surprise that a people who have been sixty years
engaged in dairying as a specialty, should have neglected this branch of their '
art so long.
The modern dairy barn is roomy, and arranged, if possible, so that one
building or a structure under one roof, will meet all the wants of the farm.
This is easily done, when a side hill and running water are convenient to the
farm house. In such cases the stables for milking are those in which the
cows are kept in winter. This arrangement saves the cost of a special
building, or " milk barn " as it is termed.
The stables should not only be well lighted, but arranged with wide drop
doors at the sides, so that for summer use you can expose a skeleton or section
of the frame, admitting into the stable a flood of light and pure air.
32 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
manure cellars.
There has been great difference of oj)inion whether manure cellars under
the stable are injurious or otherwise.
Many barns in Central New York are constructed with the cellars unde:
the stables, and in no instance where they have been properly ventilated, an
absorbents used for taking up the liquid manure, have I heard of an
bad effect on account of the manures, &c. The stock is quite as healthy,
and appears as thrifty at all seasons, as in barns without manure cellars.
I have examined manure cellars under stables, at different seasons of the
year. Some of them were badly ventilated, and were foul with gases emana-
ting from the decomposing mass of excrement which had been dumped with-
out absorbents. Such a condition of things must be a source of disease t
stock and cannot be recommended. In others, Avhere ventilation has been
secured, and absorbents, such as muck, dry earth or sawdust freely used, the
atmosphere was comparatively pure, and free from any disagreeable odor.
Generally those who have manure cellars under their stables are pleased with
them. They save a great deal of labor in the course of a year, and, with the
precautions I have named as regards ventilation and absorbents, have not
been found to be objectionable,
A CONVENIENT DAIRY BARN.
I shall describe somewhat minutely what has been found to be a conven-
ient dairy barn having capacity for fifty cows. It has a basement or manure
cellar under the stables. The barn stands on the edge of a knoll or side hill,
and is one hundred feet long by forty feet wide, and has a stone basement
nine feet high. The bottom of this basement, which is used for manures, is
paved with cobble stones, pounded down in the earth, and then cemented
with water lime and sand, in the proportion of one part lime to aine parts
sand. This forms a perfectly tight bottom and is the receptacle for all liquid
and solid excrement from stock in the stables above.
The basement is well lighted and ventilated, and teams can be driven
through the central alley for removing manures. Muck and dry earth are
hauled into the central alley, during odd spells in summer, to be used from
time to time as absorbents, and when thus mingled with the liquid and solid
excrement a large quantity of fertilizing material is made.
THE STABLES
are on the sides of the building, immediately above the basement, and are
eleven feet wide back of the feed box, and the cows are fed from the central
alley, which is fourteen feet wide. The cows stand four feet apart, or rather
they occupy that space, and are fastened with double chains two feet long,
attached to a ring sliding on a post. Between each cow there is a plank
partition extending into the central alley, the width of the feed box, and back
intS the stable some two feet. This plan gives the cow more liberty and ease
of position than stanchions, and some prefer these fastenings to stanchions on
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 33
this account. Back of the cows and along the outside of the stables, the
floor is raised some five inches higher than the drop where the cows stand,
and there is an open space between the two floors Avhere the manures are
pushed into the cellar below. This it will be seen can be done very rapidly.
(Some use a trap.) The stables are well lighted and ventilated. Above
the cows are
THE DRIVE FLOORS AND BATS
where the teams deposit the hay and fodder. The loads come in at one end
and go out at the side on the other end, so that several teams can be in the
barn and the work of loading and unloading go on at the same time, and not
interfere with each other. On one side of the barn are the
HORSE STABLES AND CARRIAGE HOUSE,
communicating with the upper or drive floor, and all arranged in the most
perfect manner as to granary and the means of dropping hay for feeding
horses and cattle.
In the upper loft over the drive way, a flooring is arranged with open
spaces, where a considerable quantity of corn in the stalk may be stored until
such time as there is leisure for husking. The leading feature of the barns
now being buiit in the dairy region is to have the drive floors and bays
above the stables. When the site is suitable some prefer to have the drive
way near the peak or top of the barn. The hay may then be rolled from the
load on either side into the bays.
In feeding, — the stables being below, — the fodder is thrown downwards,
either through openings arranged in the bays, or in the central alley, accord-
ing to the manner in which the cows are placed in the stables.
A portion of the basement is partitioned off" for roots, which at the time
of harvesting are dumped through a trap on the feed floor.
Not far from the southern shores of Oneida Lake, and at the geograi^hical
center of the State of New York, a peculiar religious sect, numbering about
two hundi'ed votaries, has established itself upon a few hundred acres of
choice land. They do almost everything among themselves, and conduct a
system of mechanical oj)erations and high farming. They have men of science
and education among them, and their workshops and farming operations are,
in many respects, models of excellence.
AK EXCELLENT DAIRY BARN.
A few years since, they sent their architects through the country to exam-
ine all the best barns that could be found, and from a large number of plans
they modeled and erected a dairy barn of the following description : — It is
one hundred and thirty-five feet long by seventy feet broad, and has a hip
roof. The structure is of wood, resting on a stone basement nine feet high.
The basement is divided by walls into spaces for the manures, the root cellar,
land bottom of the bays. There are three drive ways or barn floors running
34
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
across the building, with bays thirty feet square on either side of the central
drive way, so that the teams can deliver their loads from the three floors.
The stables run all around the outside, except in the spaces taken up by the
drive way. The stables on the ends hold twenty cows each, and the four
stables on the sides, between the floors, have nine stalls each, so that seventy-
six animals can be housed at one time.
Under the middle drive way is the root cellar, where roots are dumped by
opening a trap door ; on the other floor are traps for dropping muck, or other
absorbents into the manure cellar. The drive ways are fourteen feet wide, and
the width of the stables sixteen feet, including the mangers, which are three
feet. Back of the cows there is a manure sink two feet wide, and from this
to the outside of the building is a space of five feet. There are four
VENTILATORS
that run from top to bottom so as to give good ventilation. Saw-dust and
MiEADO^y BROOK K^RM: D^IRY B-A.RlNr-KLK'V^TION".
cxxi straw are used for bedding stock. Of the straw, about four hundred
loads are used for the purpose during winter. The hay is cut into chafl", and at
certain seasons, when cows are in milk, it is mingled with meal or bran before
being fed. When bran is used the coavs get each about four quarts per day.
The root cellar holds about four thousand bushels, and the roots are fed
during winter. It is the only barn I have seen arranged on this plan. The
bays for hay extending into the basement seems to me to be objectionable.
The arrangement for storing both hay and grain, and the feeding of stock,
appear to be convenient.
MEADOW BROOK FARM DAIRY BARN.
By the politeness of Mr. Geo, S. Bowen, of Chicago, 111., I am in re-
ceipt of the accompanying cuts showing elevation and plan of Dairy Barn
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
35
LO'WTEB FLOOS.
erected in 1870 upon his Meadow Brook Farm, near Elgin III, the following
description being taken from the
Western Rural :
" The barn is L-shaped, the main
being 96x30, the wing 40x36 ; its
hight from the ground to the
ridge-pole is forty-two feet. The
lower floor, as will be seen by the
accompanying diagram, is devoted
to stalls, milk-room, water-trough,
root-cellar, etc.
" Mr. B. has contrived to secure
ample and ready ventilation — a
point which is very often considered
too lightly in the construction of
buildings of this character. The
stalls occupy portions of both the
main part and the wing, and will ac-
commodate sixty-three cattle, with
single feed boxes for each, and
long, hinged supply lines immediately in front. There is a space of seven
feet from the droB (or receptacle for the droppings) to the windows, which
are large — their size admitting of
increased ventilation during hot
weather, and facilitating the re-
moval of excremental matter.
" A wind-mill pitmp is to be sup-
plied to raise water into a reservoir
so constructed as to fill the cooling
vats in the milk-room, and to pro-
vide water for the stock during
stormy weather.
" A protected flight of stairs leads
from the lower to the upper floor,
where there is a large room for
storing farming utensils ; a grain-
bin, 36x20 ; two bays for hay, one
76x12 and the other 36x12. The
entrance floors are seventy-six and
thirty-six feet, respectively, and
reached by bridges or causeways
leading from the ground. There
are eight large sliding double doors, all moving on rollers, and four hay
slides to get whatever is needed to the lower floor. Successive flights of
UPPER FLOOR.
36 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
stairs communicate with a large cupola. The cost of this barn was three
thousand six hundred dollars. There were used in its construction one hun
dred and ten thousand feet of lumber, fifty-five thousand shingles, and twc
thousand eight hundred pounds of nails."
ANOTHEE STYLE OF BAEIST
is used by those who have a prejudice against manure cellars. It is built witi
or without a basement. The cows stand in two rows opposite each other^
with their heads facing the outside of the building, and the space in the center
between the cows and the drop is wide enough for a drive way for hauling
out the manures. The cows enter at the central door, and take their place
on either side. Absorbents may be used for taking up the liquid manures,
and every day, when trie stables are to be cleaned, it is piled upon a sled or
wagon and taken directly to a field where it is to be used.
HOW MANUEES AEE MATSTAGED.
Haeeis Lewis, Herkimer Co., N. Y., has been quite successful in managing
the manures from his stock, from a barn of this description. He uses saw-dust
for absorbing the liquid manures in his stables, at the rate of about sixty
bushels per week for a stock of fifty cows. The liquid manure thus absorbed
is hauled from day to day to a meadow lot containing twenty-five acres. It is
spread as evenly as possible with a shovel or fork, and in the spring it is
brushed, so as to be completely broken up and distributed in fine particles.
By underdraining, and the use of this top dressing, he has been able to bring
a piece of ground containing twenty-five acres, originally of only ordinary
fertility, to a condition in which the annual yield of hay is sufficient for the
winter keep of fifty cows.
THE CONVENIENCE OF MANUEE CELLAES.
Buildings of this kind, however, are much less convenient than those pro-
vided with manure cellars, as there are many days in winter when it is stormy,
and inconvenient and difficult to haul manure from the stables. Besides, if
they are to be applied upon grounds that are somewhat descending, a consid-
erable portion of the manure is liable to be washed away as the snow goes oflf
in the spring. With the cellar, on the contrary, advantage can be taken of
the time in applying manures, and practically they are found to be productive
of the best results.
BAENS FOE CUTTING AND STEAMING FODDEE.
I have yet another barn to describe, adapted to a level surface, and where
the straw from considerable quantities of grain is to be cut and steamed for
cattle food. This barn was erected for Mr. Teuesdale, an extensive dairy
farmer in Wisconsin, who spared no expense in obtaining the best models and
architects, and who is said to have the most perfect dairy barn in that State.
I visited this establishment in 1869, and give a sketch of it from my notes :
The barn is an immense structure, being in outline the form of a T. The
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 37
top of the T is one hundred and twelve feet long by forty feet wide, with
twenty-two feet posts. The whole stands upon a heavy wall, which forms a
cellar under the building for manures. The part representing the top of the
T is used for threshing, shelling corn, grinding the grain and cutting the fod-
der. Immediately to the right, but separated only by a short platform, is
another building in which all the fodder is cooked by steam. The cattle
stand in the body of the T, in two long stables at the sides, with their heads
facing each other, the central alley being sixteen feet wide. The stables are
nine feet wide, and the platform on which the cows stand is four feet nine
inches to the stanchions,, leaving a ditch one foot wide and a space of three
feet back of the ditch to the sides of the building. The stanchions are three
feet three inches apart from center to center, and the platform on which the
cows stand is raised so as to give a drojD of nine inches. Of this drop a
space of five inches is left open, through which the manure is pushed to the
I cellar below. The stables will accommodate one hundred and forty cows —
seventy animals on a side. The second story (above the cows) is used for
( oats, grain unthreshed, and hay, the hay being stored in the lower end, in a
section by itself, for spring use.
THE THRESHING
, is done as the straw and grain are needed for the stock. The threshing
t machine and straw cutter are in the second story of the top of the T. The
; grain in bundles or loose, is thrown on a car, which runs on rails through
I the different sections over the cows, and a load is drawn up to the machine
i by a simple arrangement operated by power from the engine. The various
machines are then set in motion, and as the straw is threshed it passes to the
■ straw cutter, and falls chopped in pieces, to a large bin below. The chaff is
blown out of the grain and falls into the same bin, while the grain passes on
and falls into a fan mill below, where it is cleaned, and goes into a bin.
i Everything is arranged so conveniently, that but little labor or time is em-
I ployed to do this part of the work, from time to time as needed.
PREPARING THE FEED.
The corn sheller and mill for grinding the grain are below with the grain bins
opposite. Oats and corn are mingled together in the proportion of two-thirds
of the former to one-third of the latter, when it is carried by machinery above,
t falls into the hopper, and is ground and passed to its appropriate bin. There
I are two steam boxes sixteen feet long, five feet wide and five feet deep. They
■ stand upon cars, with a track leading through the central alley of the stable
: to the steaming room. These cars are run up to the straw and meal bins, and
lithe boxes filled. First the straw is filled into the steam box a foot deep, then
one bushel of the mixture of oats and corn meal is sprinkled on, and so alter-
mately with straw and meal until the box is filled, which gives four bushels of
II meal to the box. Then the boxes are run into the steam room and the con-
tents wet down by pumping water through a hose.
38 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
At the bottom of the boxes are perforated iron j)ipes running three times
lengthwise across the bottom, and arranged at one end so as to be locked on
to the steam pipes connected with the engine. The cover is then fitted to the
box, and the steam let on. In about half an hour the contents of the box
are broken down and cooked.
FEEDING THE COWS.
The food steamed in the morning is thrown out into the car and left to
cool till evening, when it is just pleasantly warm to the hand, and is ready for
feeding. The night's steaming is treated in the same way for the morning
feed. The cars are run along the central alley, between the heads .of the
cows, and each animal receives her share in the manger before her. The two
boxes of steamed food are sviificient for one feed of one hundred and forty
head of cattle. It will be seen, therefore, that in addition to the straw, the
one hundred and forty head get sixteen bushels of meal, or about three and
one-half quarts of meal each per day. The cows are very fond of their
rations, and under this treatment were looking sleek and in good condition.
GAIN BY STEAMING FOOD.
Mr. Truesdale's estimate shows about twenty-five per cent gain in cost of
feed over the ordinary method where hay is used, to say nothing of the im-
portant saving made in converting his straw into available manures.. The
stock is wintered in this manner, and when the cows begin to come in milk,
he commences feeding hay. The stables, I should have remarked, are well
lighted, and ample provision is made for ventilation, so that the cows have
really a luxurious abode in their winter quarters.
' THE MANURE CELLAR
is immediately under the cow stables, and is well lighted and ventilated. In
the fall of the yeai*, or during summer when work is not pressing, muck,
which has been thrown out of the ditches and dried, is carted into the cellar
and piled in the central alley as an absorbent. From five hundred to eight
hundred loads of muck are thus stored annually. The liquid and solid excre-
ment from the cows goes down into the cellar through the opening in the
stable floor as I have described, and every day or two the muck from the
central alley is thrown upon the dung until all moisture is absorbed.
HOW THE MANURE IS USED.
Mr. Truesdale's system here is, without doubt, a good one, and the large
quantities of manure annually made, must in a few years give ample returns
upon the farm. A portion of this manure is used for top-dressing meadows
and newly seeded lands, in the fall, at the rate of about twenty loads to the
acre, evenly spread and brushed down fine, and about fifty acres are annually
treated in this way.
Under this arrangement of barns and machinery, two men will take care
of one hundred and forty head of cattle, steaming the food, cleaning the
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 39
stables, and doing all the work necessary for the care aud comfort of the ani-
mals. There are two open yards, one on each side of the barn, where the cows
from each stable are provided with water, which is pumped from a never-
failing well. These yards are partly planked, and are to be wholly planked
the coming year.
BARN" WITH FOUR ROWS OF STABLES.
An Ohio correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends the following
description of a Dairy Barn :
Its distinguishing characteristics are a free use of tram-ways, and a separ-
ate building for the factory operations incident to feeding a large drove of
cattle, and for the storage of grain and feed.
The size of the main barn is 96 by 56 feet; of factory, 24 by 20. The
barn will hold one hundred and twenty cattle, and hogs ad libitum. The
basement story, or hog and manure cellar, is not shown in the elevation. It
is divided into pens for hogs, on either side of a central alley. The base-
ment story of factory contains the steam engine and a continuation of the
tram-way which passes through the hog cellar.
The second floor of the barn contains the cattle stables, arranged for four
rows of cattle, each double row facing a feeding alley in which there is a
tram-way for the easy conveyance of the cooked food. The second story of
the factory is for the grist mill, cider mill, saw frame, or any other machinery
it is desired to use. A belt also runs to a separate shaft in the main barn, for
turning the hay cutter, threshing machine and corn sheller.
The third story of the barn contains the barn floor, with large bays on
either side. Also a room for cutting hay and a bin for the cut feed. A tram-
way and hay car are provided for the easy handling of the hay and fodder used.
The corresponding story of the factory is for the reception of grain, and of
meal from the grist mill below. The necessary spouts and elevators are pro-
vided, as common in grist mills. In the fourth story of factory is stored the
bran or mill feed.
On a level with the purline plates is laid another floor for corn in the ear.
This floor is also provided with tram-way and car. The stables are provided
with manure traps, one foot by twelve, running the whole length of the
stalls, and hung upon hinges. These render the cleaning of the stalls an
easy task. If more accommodations are required, the length of the barn
might be increased. One correspondent says : — I believe in this barn, three
men might take care of one hundred and twenty cattle and five hundred hogs,
including the running of the engine and the machinery. As to cost, no
estimate can be made, since lumber and stone or brick vary so much in price
in difierent localities. Where both are abundant, the cost would not exceed
four thousand dollars.
The accompanying plans will, perhaps, the better enable the reader to
comprehend the arrangement of tlie barn.
In Fig. 1 is shown the plan of the stables on the second floor, S, S, S, S,
40
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
stalls for cattle ; M, M, M, M, mangers ; A, A, alleys in front of cattle ; Mt,
Mt, Mt, manure traps; t, ?, tramways; St, switch track between alleys;
machinery room is shown at end of elevation. Fig. 2, S, steam engine;
^, tramway; B, steam box.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
41
Fig. 3 shows a sectional view of barn and factory. A, first story; B,
second story ; C, third story of barn ; D, D, hay bays ; E, corn loft ; e, e,
(dotted line) ground level ; a, first, &, second, c, third, and £?, fourth stories
of factory.
PRACTICAL BEAKIjSTG OF MANURE CELLARS.
I have given some of the leading features esteemed requisite in the con-
iiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiilliillllllllllllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilillllillllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^^ llliilillilii
Fig. 1— Second Floor op Stock Barn.
fVp
Fig. 3.— Sectionai- View op Barn and Factory. Fig. 2.— Engine Room.
struction of a convenient dairy barn. Of course the size of building and m-
ternal arrangements may be modified to suit the wants of particular cases ;
but I regard the manure cellars underneath the stable of great practical utility,
I have seen such rapid and large improvement in dairy lands from its adoption,
42 Pb ACTIO AL Daisy Husbandry.
that it has commended itself strongly to favor. I know of farms that were
quite ordinary a few years ago that are now made to carry an extraordinarily
large stock, and I have repeatedly asked the occupants in what manner they
h^ve been enabled to produce crops sufficient to supply food for an extra
number of cows upon the farm (sometimes double the number that are kept
on adjoining farms of the same size,) and the reply has been that the result
was accomplished through the manure cellar. Before the manure cellar was
inaugurated they say :— " Do the best we could, much of the manure went to
waste. The quantity at most was small compared with what is at present
turned oif, and yet the labor expended under the old system was vastly greater
than now. I do not say but there are other methods for producing the same
results, but they cost more, are less convenient, and from the liability of neg-
lect are not so likely to prove successful.
THE DAIRY HOUSE.
The question is often asked whether under our factory system a dairy
house is required on the farm. I should advise such a structure, though it
need not be so expensive and elaborate as is sometimes seen \mder the old
system of family dairying. The building should be arranged and fitted up
for both butter and cheese manufacture. The reason for the erection of such
a structure even in cases where the milk is to be carried to a factory will, from
a moment's reflection, be obvious.
In the first place, the factories open and close operations at stated periods,
and during the time they are not working considerable quantities of milk
must be cared for and utilized at the farm. With no provision for the care
and manufacture of such milk, the annual loss from waste will soon amount
to more than the cost of building and fixtures, to say nothing of the worry
and trouble in trying to utilize the milk without any conveniences.
Again, occasions occur when it is desirable to make up the milk on the
farm to secure the butter or cheese for family use. Possibly, from time to
time some accident may happen which would exclude a batch of milk from the
factory, and in such cases it may often be worked up on the farm without
material loss. Cases not unfrequently occur where a factory is badly managed,
where the cheese or butter maker is incompetent, and while such a condition
of things remains, or during the time it may take to make a change of manu-
tacturers, it will be desirable to hold the milk at the farm. There are a
variety of circumstances constantly occurring in neighborhoods where fac-
tories exist which make the necessity for a dairy house imperative, if the
dairymen would avoid losses, and I therefore think it economy to provide such
structures, and I hold that they belong to good dairy management.
what is a proper dairy house,
and how should it be located ? For convenience it should be situated near
the milking stables, but out of the way of odors and gases arising from the
decomposition of manures, since milk absorbs these with great facility, result-
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 43
ing in injury to the product. Where side-hills are convenient to the other
buildings they afford advantageous situations for placing the dairy house. In
such cases the lower story of the house, if built of stone, Avill help to secure
a low and even temperature for the milk room. A building twenty-five feet by
thirty feet, a story and a half high, would be ample for a dairy of forty cows.
The lower part should be divided into two departments, one for butter
manufacture and the other for cheese. The two departments should be ar-
ranged so as to afford easy communication, the one with the other. If
COLD SPRIK^G WATER
can be conducted into the house the butter department should be arranged
with water tanks sunk into the earth to hold water twenty inches deep. The
tanks may be made of wood, but are better if of stone, well cemented. Pipes
leading from the tank or tanks through the wall on the lower side of the
building will conduct off surplus water. These tanks are tor holding the cans
of milk for obtaining cream and will be more fully described hereafter under
the head of butter manufacture. There should also be
A SMALL BUTTER CELLAR
connected with this department by partitioning off a part of the room next
the bank or hillside. The milk room should have windows at the upper part
or near the ceiling protected with gaiize wire, so as to be used for ventilation.
The floor of
THE CHEESE MAKING ROOM
may be a step higher than the butter room, and should be provided with self-
heating vat for cheese making, pi-ess, hoops, and curd knife. The story above
should be in one room, and is to be employed for curing cheese. There
should be a large ventilator in the center, rising above the roof of the build-
ing and extending through the ceiling of the curing room provided with a
wicket by which the draught may be regulated or shut off as desired. About
the sides of the room, and even with the floor there should be openings nine
inches by twelve, arranged with wickets, so that air may be admitted in large
or small quantities, or closed off, as needed. With the small ventilators at
the sides and the large ventilator in the center
THE CURING ROOM
may be kept free from impurities and noxious gases, while the temperature to
sojne extent may be controlled in warm weather. The curing room should
be well lighted, as light operates beneficially in securing a fine flavor to the
cheese.
When the dairy house is to be located on a level surface, and stone is ex-
pensive or not convenient, the building may be wholly of wood, the bottom
room having double walls, and if possible should be shaded by trees. Instead
of tanks set in the ground the room may be provided with the
jenning's pans.
The pans consist of large shallow tin vats, set in Avooden vats, with spaces
44 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
between for water. The pans are of various sizes and one pan is designed to liold
the entire mess of milk of the dairy at one milking. The water may be con-
veyed to the pans either by pipes leading from the penstock, or it may be
Prac'iical Dairy Husbandry.
45
drawn from the well. I have not proposed here to enter into minute descrip-
tions of dairy house and apparatus, as these more properly belong to the
topics in which butter and cheese manufacture are considered. But I have
given some of the leading features required in the construction of these
establishments, from which a general idea may be had.
DESCEIPTION AND PLAIS" OF A FARM DAIRY HOUSE.
In the plan of farm dairy house here presented, economy, simplicity and
convenience have been studied, together with the means of regulating tem-
perature in the cheese-curing room to some extent by the use of wickets and
ventilators. The design is for farms where cheese dairying is conducted as a
specialty and where from twenty-five to thirty-five cows are kept.
PIAZZA
1
w
1
pi
1
1 '^
g 1
1
E
fl —
E
—
CURING ROOM
TABLE
BASEMENT, OB FEBST FLOOR.
W A W
SECOND FLOOR.
A building twenty-four feet by thirty feet, story and a-half high, will be
large enough for an ordinary sized dairy — say of the number of cows above-
named. Light is to be admitted only on the north and south sides, as less
liable to let rays of the sun fall on the cheese. The lower part is divided into
rooms for making cheese, twelve by fourteen feet ; store-room, ten by twelve
feet ; the balance, wood house, eighteen by twenty-four feet. If desired, a
portion of this latter room may be partitioned ofi", or nearly the whole of it
converted into a place for setting milk for butter during spring and fall. A
piazza runs along the sides of the store room and room for making cheese,
rendering these parts cooler in summer, and affording a convenient place for
drying aud sunning utensils. The upper part of building, the cheese-curing
room, twenty-four by thirty feet, eight feet high, studded, and lathed and
plastered.
A ventilator runs from ceiling in center of room above the roof, termi-
46 ' Practical Dairy Husbandry.
nating in usual form with arrangements at ceiling for closing draft entirely,
or conducting larger or smaller quantities of air as desired. Air is admitted
under the roof (where it joins the fides of the building) into the garret, so
that by opening slides inside the ventilator above the ceiling, a current of air
may be maintained in the garret part. Openings, with wickets, are placed at
the bottom of the room, and along and through the sides of the building, to the
open air — three or more on a side. These openings are ten inches by twenty
inches ; the wickets close tight or admit more or less air as desired at pleasure.
An ice reservoir or refrigerator on rollers can be set in the room in which
ice may be exposed if neccessary, in extremely hot weather. A good coal
stove, tables with he'tnlock bed-piece, for holding the cheese, thermometer and
platform scales. These are the general features of the dairy house suggestad.
The whole will be readily understood by the cuts : — O, O, openings with
Avickets ; C, chimney ; E, elevator ; D, door for delivering cheese ; A, alleys ;
W, windows ; V, vat and heater for making cheese ; P, cheese press ; E, ele-
vator for elevating cheese ; S, stairs ; P, cistern pump.
AN ABUNDANCE OF GOOD WATER.
In regard to water I start with the broad proposition universally recog-
nized by dairymen of long experience, both in this covmtry and in Europe
that dairying cannot be successfully conducted without an abundance of good
water to meet the daily wants of stock. Stagnant water, the water from
sloughs, mingled as it often is with a considerable per centage of vegetable
matter, even though it be abundant and easy of access, has an unfavorable
influence on the flavor of " dairy goods," and of itself precludes the dairy-
man from reaching the highest standard in his product. I have no space now
to discuss the physiological side of this question, but I state a fact abundantly
proved in practical experience. There is great difierence of opinion among
people who are not experts as to
WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD BUTTER AND GOOD CHEESE.
Persons whose tastes have been educated by long use of an inferior product
do not readily appreciate the imperfections existing in second class goods.
The great markets of the world are demanding better grades of food than they
did twenty or even ten years ago, and in no class of food is this more observ-
able than in dairy products. It is only the best article that really pays or is
made remunerative to the producer for a series of years. We must look then
to some of
THE LEADING REQUISITES TO SUCCESS.
To the dairyman an abundance of pure water, of easy access to stock, will
be found important. Many suppose that if there be water located on one part
of the farm, the other parts being dry, that will suffice for all practical pur-
poses in supplying the needs of dairy stock. This is a mistake, especially
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 47
where large herds are to be kept. Cows should at no time be compelled to
travel long distances to slake their thirst, since the greater exertion and labor
imposed must in proportion affect the quantity as well as the quality of their
milk. Instances have repeatedly come under my observation where springs
have failed and cows, in consequence, subjected to travel over a considerable
distance to gcit water. The milk not only fell off rapidly in quantity, but in
several Avays depreciated in quality, especially in hot weather, showing a ten-
dency to quick decomposition, and giving an inferior product when worked
into cheese. Water should be so conveniently situated in pastures that stock
will require no extra or special travel to obtain it, and it should be situated
at such points in the field that stock feeding over the ground naturally go
toward it, so that when a supply of food has been taken, the animals may
slake their thirst, lie down and quietly convert their food into milk.
MILCH STOCK AVERSE TO EXERCISE.
For it must be observed that milch stock are averse to any large amount
of exercise, and do not ordinarily care to take more than is necessary in sup-
plying themselves with food. . Give them plenty of food and an easy access
to water and they quickly fill themselves and spend most of their time at rest.
When water is situated in out of the way places on the farm, cows will often
go thirsty for a considerable portion of the day rather than make a special
journey to obtain it. This has been observed by all practical farmers, and yet
it is curious that many who are conversant with the fact neglect to take proper
advantage of this peculiarity in the habits of the animal. It is an important
object with the dairyman who desires the highest success, to j^i'omote as far
as may be (without resorting to artificial means,) the taking of an abundant
quantity of water by his herd. Milk cannot be made without water, and
when it is secreted largely, a large amount of water is absolutely required.
WATER IN MILK.
Milk of an average good quality contains in one hundred parts from
eighty-five to eighty-seven parts of water. Is it not surprising that any one
would suppose that a material like this could be of excellent quality when the
dilution is made up from pools of stagnant or putrid water, which would be
shunned by every intelligent mind as the very hot-beds of disease ? And yet
we often compel our animals to drink this character of water and expect them
to manufacture from it a pure, healthy milk. The subject demands attention
everywhere. Where there are an abundance of streams and springs of living
water they only require to be properly utilized, but where they fail the diffi-
culty can be obviated in the application of wind-power for raising water from
wells.
WIND-POWER FOR PUMPING WATER.
The modern windmill is a very different affair from the old cumbersome
and expensive power, which needed constant attention to make it serviceable.
48 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The modern windmill regulates its own sails according to the force of the
wind. It is started or stopped with the greatest ease ; it is easily erected and
is not expensive, and therefore comes within the reach of any ordinary farmer.
Where pure water then may be had from wells, there can be no excuse for sub-
jecting the herd to the bad influences I have enumerated, and I am convinced
that one of the troubles complained of in the flavor of cheese is caused by
bad water, and the sooner dairy farmers look this thing fairly in the face and
set about correcting the evil, the sooner will they be on the right road to
success. It should be understood that bad water must always be an insepar-
able objection to the production of the nicer grades of butter and cheese.
Where good clean running water cannot be had, I should advise the digging
of wells and the use of wind-poAver for pumping water, at convenient points
over the pasture lands. Then large tanks or troughs should be provided
and arranged so that the surplus water may flow back into the well, as this
course keeps the water in motion and obviates, in a measure, the necessity of
extreme care and attention.
SHADES IN PASTTJEES.
There are those who advocate that shades in pastures are detrimental to
milch cows ; or rather, that shade trees, by affording a comfortable place for
cows to rest during hot weather, cause a decrease in their milk, and therefore
they are objectionable, by holding out inducements to and fostering habits of
laziness on the part of the cows. They reason that cows, to yield a large
quantity of milk, will require a proportionate amount of food ; that the longer
you can keep the cow feeding, the more grass she will store away to be manu-
factured into milk. In hot weather, they say, cows are not disposed to be
industrious, but lounge lazily under shade trees in the middle of the day, wast-
ing valuable time and, what is of more consequence, neglecting to keep the
milk-producing machinery in vigorous operation. If the pastures are deprived
of shade, they say the cows will find it uncomfortable resting in the hot sim,
will prefer to keep more upon their feet, and are therefore induced to spend
most of their time in feeding. Some dairymen therefore cut down and destroy
every vestige of shade in pastures, and are earnestly recommending this sys-
tem to the dairy public. I hear of some so eager in carrying out this princi-
ple that pains are taken to go out among the herd from time to time during
the day, starting the animals up from their resting places, and thus urging
them to the consumption of more food.
I do not approve of this system, nor do I believe that it has any advan-
tages on the score of economy. It certainly cannot commend itself for its
humanity, since the system is a species of cruelty and a disregard for the
comfort of creatures which, though dumb and devoid of reason, have the
more claim to our kind care and protection. >
THE FORCING SYSTEM.
It is undoubtedly true that the quantity of milk can be increased under a
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 49
forcing system of feeding if certain circumstances and conditions are ob-
served. And, first among these conditions is quietness and freedom from
anything like labor or extra exertion on the part of the cow. A certain
amount of exercise may be needed for health, but all exercise produces a
waste of the animal structure which must be repaired by food. The first
office of food is to support respiration and repair the natural waste of the
body, and if the waste is excessive, by reason of excessive labor, the food
will go first to supply this waste and after that for the production of milk.
Hence, those who study to get large results from milch cows are careful to
KEEP THE ANIMALS AS QUIET AS POSSIBLE,
avoiding excessive travel or labor, taking care that there be no disturbing
causes for excitement, such as fear, anxiety, or solicitude, for these waste food,
and check the secretion of milk to a much larger extent than most people
imagine. The jsrinciple is true, whether acknowledged or not, that the more
comfortable we make our milk stock the better will be the results. If during
the heat of the day cattle seek shade and lie down to rest, their quietness, com-
fort and enjoyment will add more to the milk-pail than food taken in discom-
fort and excessive exercise. We are presuming, of course, that the animals
are placed in pastures that afibrd an abundance of food, and pastures should
never be overstocked. In good pastures
IT IS NOT NECESSARY THAT COWS SHOULD BE CONSTANTLY FEEDING,
for we can see from the peculiar structure of their stomachs, that nature in-
tended a considerable portion of time to be spent at rest, that the process of
rumination and digestion be perfected. The first stomach seems to be simply
a receptacle for storing up a quantity of food to be used and enjoyed at leisure.
The food as it goes into the first stomach is very imperfectly masticated.
After having filled this receptacle the animal rests from her labors and is now
prepared to enjoy her food, which is thrown back in small quantities into the
mouth, where it is chewed, and then goes into the third and fourth stomachs
to be properly assimilated and digested. Hence rest is required ; and to de-
prive the animal of a comfortable resting-place or to drive her out in the hot
sun while in the act of rumination or masticating her food is not only cruel
but a piece of intolerable stupidity.
THE ONLY KEAL ARGUMENT AGAINST SHADE TREES
in pastures is, that the animals collect there and deposit manure where it is not
needed. The proper way to avoid this is to erect temporary shades, and they
can be removed from time to time to difierent parts of the field and thus be
made of double service — afibrding comfort to cattle and manuring the land.
I have seen this plan adopted with the best results ; the temporary shades
being placed on barren knolls and the poorest parts of the pastures, and these
places were thus brought into a high state of fertility. I believe in shade
4
50 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
trees and shades in pastures, and am convinced from observation and expe-
rience that the herds do better with them than without them. It is an inhuman
practice to compel cattle to bear the intense rays of the sun during our hot
summers. They need protection at such seasons, and if man finds shade at
times 'not only grateful but necessary, I cannot see why the same rule may
not apply ia some degree to our domestic animals. It is true they may not
die from- exposure to the sun's rays, but if the hot, panting beasts could speak
we should learn that their health was not promoted by this exposure.
MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS,
THE GRASS CROP IS,
without doubt, one of the most, if not the most important of any known to
aoriculture. It is the basis for all successful farming. It is the natural food
of our most useful animals, and without grass we should soon have no stock,
no manures, and scarcely any cultivated crop. The money value of the grass
crop in the United States is immense. Lewis F. Allen, in his work on
American cattle, estimates the number of neat cattle in the States and Terri-
tories in 1867 at 28,145,240 head, and he puts their value at a thousand mil-
lions of dollars.
That is only one item which may be credited to grass ; for if we add the
annual product of the ten millions of milch cows, together with the horses
and the sheep and wool of the country, we shall begin to appreciate how
much the nation owes to grass for its prosperity and wealth. Indeed, the
enormous value of this crop is comparatively overlooked by political econo-
mists in their calculations.
Before going into an examination of its pecuniary value let us look for a
moment at its value in the higher and more extensive relations it bears to the
comforts not only, but existence of the human race.
" All flesh is grass," say the Scriptures, but in a different and more ex-
tensive sense than is there conveyed is, truly, all flesh grass. Strike out of
existence the two great families of the bovine and wool-bearing animals, and
where would the human race be left ? To say nothing of the innumerable
comforts that spring from these two races of animals, such as wool, leather,
&c., for which various substitutes could be doubtless discovered, the very
existence of a large part of mankind is directly dependent upon them.
Despising all vegetarian theories, we only call upon the common sense of
mankind to prove that without meat, which is itself fed, nourished, and sus-
tained upon grass and grass alone, one-half the human race would perish at
once. Such is the value of grass aesthetically considered. But look at the
PECUNIARY VALUE OP GRASS,
and for this purpose we may refer to official statistics. In the report of the
Agricultural Department for 1864 the value of the hay crop that year in the
United States is put at $365,707,074. Commissioner Wells gives the hay
52 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry.
^
crop of 1860 at 25,000,000 tons. He estimates its value at llOper ton, which
amounts to 1250,000,000.
But the value of pasturage must be equally as great, or greater. For
probably, taking the country together, the hay represents the maintenance
of the live stock for one-third only of the year, while pasturage embraces
tAVO-thirds. Then there is the labor of gathering the hay, which goes into its
value to offset a part of that. "We cannot estimate the value of the grass
crop for 1869, therefore, at less than 1700,000,000. Remember we speak here
of grass in its popular sense, as embracing the clovers, which, strictly speak-
ing, belong to the leguminous family of plants.
Now the cotton crop of 1869 was valued at $303,000,000, corn at |450,000,-
000, wheat, 1375,000,000, oats, $137,000,000, potatoes, $90,000,000. Who will
say in view of these facts that cotton, or corn, or wheat is king ? Among all
the productions of the earth grass, unpretentious though it be, is truly king.
It is the only truly indispensable product of the earth that nature herself takes
care shall not fail. But for dairy farmers — who owe so much to this crop,
and which if it failed but for a single season wide-spread ruin would stalk
abroad — its importance need not further be discussed.
The great question with dairy farmers to-day and at all times must be in
what way can grass be made to thrive and produce abundantly ? The ques-
tion is a broad one and I shall first touch upon the matter of pastures.
PASTUEES, OVERSTOCKING, ETC.
In the first place many pastures are habitually overstocked. By this prac-
tice the roots of grasses and the whole plants are kept so small that their growth
is feeble, and not one-half the feed is afforded that the land would produce if
stocked lightly a year or two and the grass allowed to get a good thrifty
start. But this is not the only disadvantage from overstocking. The feebly
growth of the grasses allows other plants to creep in, and the ground soon be-
comes overrun with weeds, which on account of their not being cropped by
stock, grow in great luxuriance, maturing their seed and thus impoverishing
the soil.
THE CUESE OF AMEEICAISr DAIEYIKG
to-day is weeds. When once they get full possession they become so formid-
able that the farmer is often disheartened and gives up their eradication. Many
farmers, too, have an erroneous notion in regard to the destruction of weeds
on grass lands. The impression often prevails that the only way of getting rid
of weeds is to break up and thoroughly cultivate the ground in hoed cro^^s. This
is not always convenient or even desirable, for in many cases it cannot be done
without breaking up the herd or dairy, while some uneven sui-faces cannot be
plowed. There is another way of killing weeds such as the daisy and that
class of plants, by the liberal use of manures and grass seeds. I have erad-
icated white daisy in several instances by simply applying farm yard dung and
gypsum, and strewing the ground with a heavy seeding of clover. Establish
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 63
your clover upon the soil and feed it until it is luxuriant and it destroys the
daisy and other weeds, by a system of plant-garroting, strangling and chok-
ing the life out of them. Then some weeds may be killed by frequent cutting •
and not allowing them to seed. It is always advisable to pull up or extermi-
nate bad weeds on their first appearance in pastures, and not allow them to
'spread.
The subject of pastures is of great importance to the dairy interest. To
know how to produce milk cheaply and of the best quality, is the underlying
stone of the dairyman's success. The points to be determined, it seems to
me, are these :
"WHAT KIND OF PASTUKES ARE BEST FOR THE DAIRY ?
Are they those which have been long in grass, or are they those which have
been recently plowed and re-seeded ? Can pastures be kept productive when
remaining long in grass ; or in beginning to fail, is it necessary to renew by
plowing and re-seeding ; and, finally, what are the cheapest as well as the best
modes of obtaining quality and productiveness of pasturage ?
In considering these questions it should be borne in mind that the subject
has reference to pastures for the production of milk, or those adapted to the
dairy. Soils vary in character, and when under the modifying influence of
climate and location, exhibit a peculiar fitness for certain plants ; thus we have
those best adapted to the production of grain, grass, fruit, or for those
abounding in textile fiber.
I have said you cannot profitably carry the daiiy upon the extensive plains
of the West and South-west. They lack water. Pastures become brown and
dried up long before midsummer ; nor will they hold grasses of any ap-
proved kind for any long time. We are not, therefore, to consider the treat-
ment of all pasture lands alike, but of those that are particularly well adapted
to grass, and which cover a considerable portion of the lands known as the
dairy region.
Now, what are we to do with pasture lands that begin to fail from over-
cropping, or from other causes ? Shall we plow them up, re-seed, or shall we
adopt some other mode of renovation ? I know of pastures that have been
in grass for sixty years and upwards, and to-day show no signs of failure,
Wherever I have been through the dairy region I find these pastures, and it
is the universal testimony of those who have them that they are yielding better
returns in milk than any recently re-seeded grounds.
I have seen old pastures plowed, re-seeded, and put in meadow, where the
annual crop for a few years was large, but when put back again in pastures
gave poor returns, and took years to obtain a nice, thick sod. This may not
always be the case, but it is frequent and, I am inclined to think, general.
It may be said that the fault lay in re-seeding ; that a greater variety of
seeds should have been sown, timothy, the clovers, orchard-grass, blue grass,
red top, &c. Our farmers generally, I believe, seed mostly with timothy,
f
54 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
clover and red top, using the ground at first for meadows, and afterwards for
pastures. What we want (and it is usually that which obtains in old pastures)
■ is a variety of grasses springing up in succession, and those that will bear
cropping, so that they will afibrd a good fresh bite from May till November.
OLD PASTURES
are generally filled with a variety of plants that are adapted to the soil, and
in plowing and taking ofi" grain crops and then re-seeding, the conditions or
elements of fertility are somewhat changed, so that anticipated results are not
always obtained.
In 1855 I plowed up an old meadow, about two acres of which was yield-
ing large crops of timothy and clover, but so situated in the field that the hay
crop could not be got off in time. I took from these two acres the first year
one hundred and eighty bushels of corn and the second year one hundred
bushels of barley, when the land was seeded down to timothy and clover.
For two or three years it did not produce satisfactorily, though receiving the
usual dressing of plaster. I also top-dressed it with stable manure — perhaps
twenty loads to the acre — but without getting the large crops of grass that I
did before re-seeding. Some mineral elements, therefore, I supposed to be
wanting — perhaps potash, and so I top-dressed with ashes and had no further
trouble. I have seen quite a number of old pastures that were yielding
tolerably well, plowed with somewhat similar results. The land would bear
abundant crops of grain, but grass failed to be enduring, or \vas less nutri- -
tious, and hence frequent plowings and re-seedings were resorted to.
OLD PASTURES FOR FATTENING STOCK.
I have visited many stock farms where men make a business of buying
cattle and fattening them for the market, and they say to me that they havp
never been able 'to fatten stock with that facility from grass raised on newly
seeded grounds as on that of those put down many years ago, or from pas-
tures that have never been broken up at all. Others make similar statements.
I shall not dispute the point that we may doctor up our lands to produce any
desired crop, but to do so is expensive, and will often require more science
and skill than are common in the country.
When nature furnishes the conditions for producing grasses that give the
best results in milk, and when these grasses become firmly established in the
soil, are we not pursuing a suicidal policy in destroying them, by over-cropping,
or by allowing weeds to smother and crowd them from the soil, under the impres-
sion that our pastures can be renewed at any time by plowing and re-seeding ?
Woiild it not be better and cheaper to exterminate weeds and give our
pastures some rest during the hot, dry weather of July and August, by feed-
ing sowed corn instead of cropping down to the roots and allowing the sun to
roast them oiit and destroy the plants ? It is the weeds, and over-cropping,
and unprotected covering of pasture lands in hot weather that are the fruitful
sources of failure of grass in pastures.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 65
Generally on rich soils, like those of Herkimer, IS". Y., the old dairy pastures
need but little, if any, organic matter ; the decay of roots and the droppings of
stock supply this matter in abundance, and hence the application of cheap min-
eral manures is that which is most needed. These, of course, can be readily
supplied , but if we are to plow ujd and take off grain crops, barn-yard manures
must be used, which are more expensive.
It is very unprofitable for the dairyman to break up lands that are yielding,
or can be made to yield readily, good crops of grass. Our most successful
dairymen in the Eastern and Middle States believe that grain can be pur-
chased from abroad cheaper than they can raise it. Grain raising, therefore,
with many is considered a matter of necessity rather than choice, but grass
fails and the lands are plowed and re-seeded. This may be well enough for
meadows, but is not so conveniently managed in pastures.
If a part of the pasture land begins to fail and it is designed to plow and
re-seed, the land must be fenced, which is expensive and often inconvenient.
But after getting it down to grass cattle cannot be turned in until the plants
become somewhat established, as they tread up the ground, pull up the grass
by the roots, and by midsummer there is a barren field. Again, to plow pas-
ture lands the herd must be reduced to meet the necessities of the case. This
is also an objectionable feature, and one that is always distasteful to the
dairyman.
TOP-DEESSING GRASS LANDS.
When grass utterly fails, plowing and re-seeding doubtless should be re-
sorted to ; but generally pasture lands may be kept permanently in grass by
giving them a little extra care and attention. If they begin to fail from over-
cropping or neglect, a judicious course of top-dressing and sowing seed will
be found preferable to the plow. Usually on the black, slate lands of Herki-
mer, plaster at the rate of one hundred to two hundred pounds to the acre
every alternate year will keep pasture lands in good rded
122 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
by the blood vessels ; if the veins which surround the udder are large, m
winding and varicose, they show that the glands receive much blood, and
consequently that their functions are active and that milk is abundant. The
veins on the lateral parts of the belly are easily observed. These veins issue
from the udder in front, and at the outer angle, where they form, in good
cows, a considerable varicose swelling. They proceed toward the front part
of the body, forming angles more or less distinct, often divide toward their
anterior extremity, and sink into the body by several openings."
guenon's discoveries.
Some years ago Mons. Guenon, a Frenchman, made the discovery that
cows known as " good milkers," had certain characteristic mai'ks, shown in
the hair growing upon the udder, and upon and between the thighs above
the udder. Following out this peculiarity on diiferent animals, and noting
the variations in the marks on a great number of cows, from the best to the
most inferior milkers, he was enabled to establish his theory of the " milk
mirror " or " escutcheon," as it is termed. The basis of the theory may be
stated in general terms, as follows : — The hair on the buttocks of cattle grows
in two different directions, one portion pointing upward, and another part
downward, and thus producing a sort of fringe at the point of juncture. The
hair which has an upward tendency, has been termed the " escutcheon," the
larger the extent of the " escutcheon," according to M. GtiEisroN, the greater
the promise of milk, and also of the continuance even after the cow is in
calf. A cow may have a small escutcheon, and yet be a good milker ; but
observation leads to the conclusion, that if she possessed a more fully devel-
oped escutcheon, she would have been a better milker. In estimating the
extent of the escutcheon, allowance should be made for the folds in the skin,
otherwise a large escutcheon may be taken for a small one. Besides the
escutcheon there are tufts of hair which, when seen on the cow's udder, have
a certain degree of value. It may be observed here, that M. Guengjst's
theory is very elaborate, and cannot be relied upon in all its details, though
its general outlines or leading features, when taken in connection with the
shape and size of the cow, the texture of her skin, development of the
udder and milk vein, her disposition, endurance of constitution and other
points, give valuable aid in selecting good milkers. The principles laid down
by M. GuENON, are of considerable value as additional aids to other well
known points of a good cow, but they should not be relied upon singly and
alone, as indicating what is, and what is not, a good milker in every case.
I have known " experts " in the theory to be deceived, or make bad selections
in cows ; and I have been misled, relying too much upon the marks, or escutch-
eon, overlooking perhaps other essential considerations.
MAGNE's CLASSIFICATIOlSr OF COWS.
M. Magne, in his summary of M. Guenon's system, divides the cows
according to the quantity of milk which they give into four classes.
Practical Dairy Husbandry,
123
PIEST-RATE COWS
are in that class, where both divisions of the lower escutcheon, the mam-
mary and the perineum, are large, continuous and uniform, and cover at least
a large portion of the perineum, the inside of the thighs and udder, and extend
moreover, with little or no break, more or less over the limbs, eliptical in shape,
and situated in the posterior face of the udder (Fig.1,2). But the cows may be
Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
considered first-rate as milkers, if in the absence of a well developed escut-
cheon, they possess the following marks : — Veins of the perineum, varicose
and visible externally, or at least easily made so by compression at the base
of the perineum ; veins of the udder large and knotty ; milk veins frequently
double, and equal on both sides of the animal, and forming zigzag or wavy
lines within the belly. In addition to the marks shown by the veins and by
the escutcheon, the udder should be large and yielding, of homogeneous
texture, having a thin skin covered with fine hair, and yielding or shrinking
much under the process of milking. The chest should be ample, and a good
constitution displayed by regular appetite, and a disj)osition to drink much ;
the skin soft and supple ; hair short and soft ; head small ; horns fine and
smooth ; eye quick, but gentle ; fine neck and feminine air.
GOOD cows
are those that present the mammary portions of the escutcheon well devel-
oped ; but the perineum portion is either wanting or but partially developed.
(Figs. 3, 4). If the escutcheon is ever so well developed, the cows are
middling or bad, and do not belong to the first or second class, if the veins
124
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
n
of the udder are not iu considerable numbers, and the milk veins under the
belly are not large.
MEDIOCRE COWS
possess the lower tuft of the escutcheon of the mammary part, little devel-
oped or indented, and the perineum portion irregular, narrow and contracted.
Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6.
(Figs. 5, 6). The perineum veins are not visible, and the veins of the belly
are small and straight. The head is large, skin stiff and thick, and the
animal is often peevish and restless.
BAD cows
possess escutcheons of very small extent (as shown in Figs. 7, 8) ; no veins are
visible in the udder or the perineum, and the milk veins are feebly developed.
The cows of this class are generally in good condition, and showy, taking
animals, the thighs are fleshy, the skin hard and thick, neck thick, head and
horns large, and the latter of large dimensions at the base."
I have perhaps quoted sufficient to show the general outlines of M.- Gue-
non's theory, without going into an elaborate essay on the subject, which
would need a large number of cuts to be clearly explained. But desirable as
it may be for the dairyman to have a good strain of milking stock, his success
will not depend altogether upon blood and skill in breeding.
THE FEEDIISTG AND MANAGEMENT
of his herd is an art which he will find is not to be learned in all its details
in a day. Some dairymen never can, or at least never do, learn it. During
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
125
the past ten years my business has called me very much among dairymen,
where almost every variety of management is adopted. I have seen men
with " scrub-herds," picked up here and there from the common stock of the
country, obtaining an enormous product. I know men who get from common
stock an annual yield of between six hundred and seven hundred pounds of
cheese to the cow, while perhaps a neighbor with much superior blooded
stock is unable to obtain anything like that product. How is this eifected ?
In the first place these men have a natural talent for selecting good cows, and
in the second place, they seem to be in perfect sympathy with the animals
under their control, attending to every detail for their comfort, providing
wholesome, nutritious food, janre water and pure air — everything of this kind
in abundance — keeping the animals properly sheltered from storms ; feeding
always with great regularity ; paying the most marked attention to the time
and manner of milking, and withal preserving a uniform kindness and gentle-
Fig. Y.
ness of treatment throughout every operation, a gentleness extending even
to the tone of the voice. It is really astonishing what a large difierence in
the yield of milk it makes by attending properly to a number of small things,
which would seem to many quite too insignificant to be worth observing.
Indeed, had I not seen these effects in numerous instances and in my own
experience, I could never have believed that their influence was so potent.
DRYING COWS OF THEIR MILK.
It would be impossible, in the scope of the present volume, to discuss all
the essential points of management for dairy stock. I can allude only to some
126 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
of the leading requisites for success. I commence first with drying cows of
their milk at the end of the milking season. There is great difference in
opinion among farmers as to the time that a cow should go dry. Some
contend that no injury follows from milking cows so long as they will yield
milk, or up to within a week or two of the time at which they are to calve;
while others insist that at least from two to three months should be given a
cow to go dry. The latter is doubtless the 'more sensible and judicious course
to be adopted. A cow that is to "come in " during the early part of March,
should be allowed to go dry in December. She will then have time to recu-
perate and repair that waste which has been going on in the production of
milk, and in building up the structure of th: young which she carries.
It is a great drain on the system to continue the milking of a cow in
winter, and up to near the time of giving birth to her calf; and it is to be
doubted whether an animal treated in this way will yield any more, if as
much profit, as she would were the other course adopted. For it is not
altogether the quantity of milk that is to be looked after,. but its quality must
also be taken into account. Cows that are overtaxed and Aveak, yield milk
of poorer quality than when in vigorous liealth. And as to the question of
health, endurance and long life, all experience must show that the animals
wear out sooner, are more liable to disease and mishaps, under the "excessive
milking system," than when allowed a reasonable time for rest.
FALL AND WINTER FOOD FOR COWS.
But what makes the matter worse is, that many dairymen provide no feed
beyond hay to animals yielding milk during the winter. They are often
exposed to biting storms of rain, and sleet and piercing winds, all of which
operate in reducing the tone of health, and in undermining the constitution.
Hence we not unfrequently see cows wasting away with consumption, and
meeting with little accidents that prove fiital, because the cows have not the
vigor to resist them. Some cows, it is true, are inclined to give milk the
year round, and are difficult to be dried off. Such animals require some-
thing more than hay ; and an additional feed of ground grain (oat and corn-
meal mixed), should be commenced to be given in the fall, or at least as soon
as grass begins to depreciate in its nutritive quality. " Frozen grass and
moonshine," even though furnished in great abundance, are not the kind of
food on which deep milkers thrive and are invigorated. Cows, Avhether in
milk or dry, ought not to be allowed to fall off in flesh late in fall, or at
the commencement of winter. Thin cows are sensitive to cold, and require
more food for their winter keep than they do when commencing the season
with a good' coat of flesh. It is always less expensive to get stock in
condition during warm weather, or before winter sets in ; and it is therefore
very poor economy to allow deep milkers to run down thin late in fall, as
it often entails a good deal of careful nursing all the winter through, in order
to bring the animals safely over to grass.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 127
DRAWING ALL THE MILK FROM THE UDDER.
In drying cows of their milk, attention should be given that all the milk
be drawn from the udder at any one milking. Some are in the habit of
only partially drawing tne milk Irom time to time, when drying otf cows. It
is not a good practice, as the milk left in the udder becomes thick and putrid,
causing irritation and inflammation, and not unfrequently results in the loss
of a teat, or a portion of the bag, the next season. When cows are being
dried off, they should be examined every few days, and their udders completely
emptied of all accumulated milk ; and with cows supposed to be dry, their
teats should be tried at least once a week, all winter, to see if there be any
accumulation of milk. I have had serious losses from trusting to hired help
in this matter, and taking for granted that it had been properly attended to.
There is no safety unless the work is done under your own eye, or an exami-
nation made with your own hand. And it may be remarked that in the
management of dairy stock, nothing pays better than a frequent oversight of
the creatures by the master^ eye. Hands, however trusty, sometimes get
careless and indifferent in their care of stock, which can only be corrected by
constant oversight on the part of the proprietor.
SHELTER.
The importance of keeping stock well housed from storms during inclement
weather is often under-estimated by dairy farmers. Much more food is
required for stock exposed to cold, bleak winds and storms of sleet and snow,
than when properly sheltered. A certain amount of food is needed to keep
up animal heat, and it is much cheaper to supply this warmth in properly
constructed stables than to use extra fuel in the shape of hay and grain, to
keep up heat in the open yard. It has been estimated that an animal wintered
in the open yard, without any other shelter than that afforded by fences and
the sides of buildings, will consume a third more food than if properly
housed. And even wdth the additional food, the animal does not come out so
well in spring as the sheltered animal on less food. The principle is abund-
antly established, and ought to be recognized by every one who has had the
care of stock ; and yet, strange as it may seem, a large proportion of the
herds are left shivering in the cold from morning till night, under the impres-
sion, it would seem, that the stable can only be used economically during
night, or as a place in which to give food. Some insist that this exposure is
promotive of health, that it imparts vigor and tone to the system, and that
attention in housing from cold and storms during the day is a species of
pampering, highly injurious to the constitution and well-being of the animal.
Unfortunately for those Avho hold these opinions, the record of losses, of
accidents, of diseases incident to milch stock, are against the theory, and in
favor of those who are careful to shelter their stock from undue exposure.
A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF EXERCISE,
of sun and air, together with freedom from restraint, is without doubt condu-
cive to health, but the conditions must be favorable or such as the stock enjoy.
128 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
An animal may be trained to endure cold, exposure and fatigue, and under
certain conditions, health may be maintained. But you cannot impose, at
the same time, the duties of maternity and the yielding of large quantities
of milk, because the waste of the system from these sources is so great as to
leave only a small amount of vitality to be employed in another direction.
This is particularly the case with milch cows, which, under a system of
domestication and breeding, have been educated into a " milky habit." Left
to themselves under the most favorable circumstances, in warm weather, they
like but little exercise compared with other classes of animals ; and when
required to exercise much, always fall off in milk. Warmth, comfort and
quietness are particularly essential to these animals, and any system of man-
agement opposed to these conditions, must in a measure, fail to be profit-
able to the dairyman.
DISEASES FOLLOAV EXPOSURE.
Cows that are in milk, or that have been milked late, are peculiarly
sensitive to cold, and they are frequently injured by being exposed to storms.
By getting wet, and becoming chilled, pxilmonary complaints and other
diseases are induced, and thus the farmer has a sick animal on his hands
which is a source of trouble and anxiety, and not unfrequently a total loss.
Many of the troubles that come upon cows at the period of calving, may be
traced directly to exposure during the winter ; and therefore on this account
alone will it pay the farmer to shelter his stock on the approach of storms,
either of wind, or snow, or rain. During those days in winter that are sunny
and wai-m, there may be no objection to allowing stock to run at large in the
yard a greater portion of the day ; but in extreme cold weather three-quarters
of an hour in the morning and the same length of time in the afternoon, to
slake their thirst at the trough, will give them all the exercise needed. The
remaining portion of the time they will be better in a warm, well-ventilated
stable, where they can quietly ruminate, without fear of being hooked and
driven about by master cows.
Any one who may have closely observed the habits of milch cows kept
out in the yard during extreme cold weather, it would seem, could not well
come to a different conclusion. The animals often stand about the buildings,
pinched up and shivering, the cold exciting to bad temper which they vent
upon the underlings, severely punishing them without cause, and many times
to the serious loss of the owner. At such times open the door of your
stable, and give them choice of entrance, or to remain without ; and if they
do not seek warm quai'ters they differ from any of the herds with which I
am acquainted.
THE LOSSES FROM NEGLECT
of, and inattention to stock during winter, are so large, that the subject
cannot be too urgently pressed upon the attention of dairymen. If farmers
will only take a coinmon-sense view of the question, and seriously count
the cost of the neglect to which I have referred, I am convinced they will
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 129
agree with me, that an important saving may be made by the proper sheltering
of stock during the rigors of winter.
CAKDING cows. — SCEATCHING POLES*
The practice of carding cows is of great importance in promoting, health,
and inci'easing the profits of the dairy. It not only improves the health of
stock, but leads to habits of neatness and cleanliness about the stables, that
have an important influence in securing good, clean milk, during the spring
months, I would furnish cattle with scratching posts in the yard,, and place
a pole firmly on posts with one end higher than the other,^ to accommodate
animals of different sizes, that they may pass under and scratch themselves
as desired. When these are erected, they will soon be found polished from
frequent use.
THE STOMACHS OF RUMINANTS PREPARING POOD FOE ASSIMILATION.
Before discussing questions in regard to feeding stock, it will be well,
perhaps, to allude briefly to the manner in which ruminants prepare their food
for assimilation. We quote from Dr. J. V. Smith : — " The cow requires
large quantities of food ; it remains in her stomach a long time, but the
relative amount of nutrition needed is small. A carnivorous animal has only
one stomach, and requires food more condensed and nutritious. Generally
animals that chew the cud have four stomachs, to fill which requires a great
bulk of food, and they must be filled or they will collapse,, and the opposite
walls will meet and destroy each other by their involuntary action. Hence,
when the food of such animals is too concentrated, health rapidly declines.
The slops of distillers do not sufficiently distend the stomach, and the milk
secreted from such diluted food, lacking the elements of nutrition, is doubt-
less the cause in cities of many diseases of children that partake of it. The
first stomach or paunch, may be called the receiving organ; it is very
capacious, and is divided into four compartments. The animal takes its food
at first with very imperfect mastication, storing it away in the rumen or
paunch, and at its leisure, converts the food into nutriment. It makes balls
of its food, by chewing it, then, one after another, lets them down into the
paunch till this organ may be compared to a basket filled with eggs. The
food becomes moistened, and is perpetually revolving through the different
compartments of the rumen, and undergoing important preparation for future
digestion. The muscular coats of the rumen consist of two layers, running
in different directions, and these muscles are the mechanical agents by which
the food is kept in motion, and by running in these different directions they
are enabled to act upon all the differently-formed cells of this enoi-mous
viscus. The animal when at rest, or on lying down, commences the process
of using the food. These animals like company, for they are social. A cow
generally will not give as much milk when solitary, as when associated with
her kind. Digestion now commences with a reversed action. One of the
balls comes back into the mouth, where it is chewed over and made into a
9
130 Practical Dairy Husbandrj.
smaller ball, when it is discharged into a second stomach by another passage,
the entrance to which is under the animal's control. There a fluid is secreted,
and mixed with the food so received, and becomes of a yellow color. Here
the animal has no further control of the food. Thence the food drops into
the third stomach, which is smaller, and here the food, if not completely
broken down, is ground into pulp and mixed with a white fluid, when it drops
into the fourth stomach in a yellow, creamy stream. In this stomach it becomes
arranged in layers, and by the secretion of another and peculiar fluid, is
changed into chyme. This form it must of necessity assume before its nutri-
tive matter can be separated. The solution being complete, or so much so as
it can be rendered, the food passes through the lower orifice of the stomach
into the duodenum or first intestine, where its separation into the nutritive or
innutritive portions is efiected, and the former begins to be taken up by the
lacteals, and carried into the system."
IN SUCKING CALVES
this fourth stomach is the one that is active, and it is the one which is used
for rennet in coagulating milk for cheese making. In the earlier ages of the
world, when habits were simple and wants were few, the only cheese used
was obtained from this stomach of the animal. But afterward it was found^
that the material of the stomach itself would curdle milk, and hence came
the manufacture of cheese. Thus we see the food of these animals must go
through the various wonderful processes described before it is fitted to furnish
nutriment.
BALLS OF HAIR
are sometimes found in the first stomach, from one inch to four inches in
diameter. In the spring cattle curry each other, to allay itching, by licking,
and in so doing they cannot get the hairs off their tongues, and are forced to
swallow them, when they naturally take the shape of a ball. The animal tries
to expel it, but the structure of the tongue prevents, when it is swallowed again,
and is kept going to and fro up and down many times. Of course such a
foreign substance will often produce disease, which is likely to have many
names and for which medicines totally inefficacious are prescribed. It is
obvious that, at the season named, it is very important in the treatment of
cattle to curry them with the curry comb, to prevent the formation of these
hair-balls.
cows IN CLOSE CONFINEMENT.
In the winter management of dairy stock it has been urged by some that
the animals winter best when kept confined to the stable most of the time.
Some dairymen scarcely allow the cows to leave the stable during the whole
winter. Each cow has a water box before her which is supplied with fresh
running water as desired. I have examined herds and taken the testimony
of the advocates of this system, and although cows kept in a well-lighted,
well-ventilated and cleanly stable, daily curried and bedded with straw
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 131
appear healthy, still I cannot approve of the system. Such cows may for
the time give more milk and lay on more flesh, but at the expense of
health and vitality. Health and physical development are indispensable.
Locomotion is not only natural but necessary. There is not a respectable
medical authority in the country that dare recommend the dispensing with
daily exercise in the air for man and beast where health and physical develop-
ment are sought after. Weakness and incapacity are induced by confinement.
We must not sacrifice indispensable ends to temporary profit and conveni-
ence. Temporary profit is often the wanton violation of physiological law.
Provide warm sheds, and well ventilated stables, with bedding ; feed well and
groom well, but allow stock an opportunity for free exercise, at least an hour
or two each day, whenever the weather permits.
HOW cows SHOULD GO INTO WINTER QUAKTEES.
Now we have said that one essential point in the wintering of dairy stock is
to have the animals in good, thrifty condition, when they go into the stable at
the commencement of winter. Deep milkers are apt to milk down thin in
fall, and when there is a disposition to lose flesh in this way, it is always well
to commence feeding ground grain, oat-meal, bran and ship-stuffs ; since it is
much easier and less expensive to put on flesh in the fall, when the weather is
comparatively warm, than in winter. If the animals go into the stables in
good condition, and are properly dried of their milk, they will continue to
gain through the winter, on good hay alone. But if they get a daily ration
of roots — either cai'rots, tui'nijjs, or mangolds — with a little straw to pick at
from time to time as a change, they will come out in spring in good, healthy,
serviceable condition. They must be fed and watered with regularity, and I
prefer that the feeding be three times a day — morning, noon and night.
In Herkimer Co., where we have been engaged in dairying for seventy
years, a great many experiments or different methods of management have
been tried, but our best dairymen say that when cows are wintered on early
cut hay, with an allowance of roots of some kind, and treated in the way I
have indicated, the cows almost invariably do well after calving, with no
trouble from retention of after-birth or from garget.
EAELT AKD LATE CUT GRASS — RELATIVE VALUE FOR MILCH COWS.
The opinions of dairymen in regard to the nutritive value of grass cut
for hay at different stages of maturity have changed materially during the
last few years. Grass now, in the best dairy districts of New York, is cut
much earlier than it used to be ; and it is found by experience that cattle
thrive in winter upon early cut grass properly cured, and come out in spring
in a much better condition as to flesh and health, than when fed upon grass
cut when over-ripe. When grass is left to stand till over-ripe there is a large
amount of woody fiber, which the animal cannot assimilate. Hence, in order
to get sufl[icient nutriment, a large bulk has to be consumed. It has been
proved by experiments made by our best Herkimer county farmers, with a
132 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
view to determine the relative value of early cut grass, that the early cut grass
ia feeding will give as good results when given without any additional food
as the late cut grass with a moderate daily ration of meal.
Some farmers, therefore, prefer to cut a portion of their grass early in
June, before it comes fairly into flower, curing it without allowing it to get
wet, and storing it where it can be used specially for spring feeding. In this
way some avoid feeding grain in spring, when cows begin to come in milk.
I have made frequent examinations of herds carried through to grass
without a particle of grain, or indeed any other food except the early cut
grass, nicely cured, and the animals on turning to grass were in good, fair
condition. I do not approve, however, of wintering milch cows on one kind
of food, believing they should have variety, such as roots, straw and coarse
fodder, in addition to a full supply of the best hay ; and then, when cows
begin to come in milk, before turning to grass, a little ground meal, bran or
ship-stuffs should be given daily. I mention these facts in reference to early
cut grass in order to show that it is much more nutritious than many farmers
suppose.
STOCK SHOULD BE WINTERED WELL.
To have stock make a good yield of milk during the season, it is important
that the animals be wintered well, and not allowed at any time to get poor
in flesh, or weak. The cow that comes through the winter weak and debili-
tated, and reduced in flesh, will require the larger part of the summer to
recuperate. She will yield not only a small quantity of milk during the time
she is recuperating, but it will be poor in quality, and hence such an animal
can render but meager profits even on the cheapest kind of land ; for her
care, and the labor of milking, &c., will nearly if not quite eat up in cost
the value of her product.
THE VARIATION IN THE QUALITY OP MILK,
on account of poor keep, thinness of flesh, and a debilitated condition of
the animal, has been very abundantly set forth by the chemists, in their
analyses of milk from such animals. In such cases the butter has been found
to fall off from five per cent, to less than two per cent., with a considerable
reduction also in the casein. The influence of poor keep on the quality of
milk, is a question not very well understood or appreciated by the majority
of farmers. The man who keeps his herd poorly, and delivers his milk at the
factory with those whose herds are well fed and cared for, ought in justice to
make a proper allowance for an inferior quality of milk. To come in on an
equality with his neighbor's good milk, is in fact to take from his neighbor a
certain amount of property without accounting for it. There is no practical
method as yet, at the factories, for regulating this abuse, except by excluding
such milk from the factory. But there is another question of considerable
importance in connection with cutting grass early. The meadows are more
endui-ing and yield better returns year after year. In New York we find
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 133
one great cause of meadows running out,
is allowing the grass to stand until ripe or over-ripe, before cutting. When
meadows are thinly seeded, and it is not desirable to break them up, the turf
will be greatly improved by cutting the grass early, just as it comes in flower.
It is very poor economy to let the grass stand until over-ripe to shed seed,
hoping to re-seed in this manner and get a good turf. A much better way
will be to cut the grass early, and then as the fall rains approach go over the
ground, scattering seed wherever it is needed ; but when the earth freezes
deeply, and the roots of the grass are liable to be destroyed by frost, this
operation of seeding can be done early in spring. One great trouble in
GETTING A GOOD TURF UPON MEADOWS,
results from using too little seed and too few varieties. When timothy alone
is to be raised, a half bushel of seed to the acre is none too small a quantity
to be used. A very successful farmer in Herkimer, who grows large crops
of timothy, adopts the following system : — If old land (or land upon which
a hoed crop has been grown), it is plowed in the fall. Then in the spring a
coat of manure is spread on the surface and worked in with the cultivator,
and the grass seed sown with some spring grain.
VALUE OF EARLY. CUT GRASS.
In regard to the value of early cut grass for dairy stock, the experiments,
not only in my own dairy but numerous well authenticated statements from
others, leave not the slightest doubt. The most remarkable result, however,
on record, was that obtained in the feeding of the Vermont cow. Taking
into consideration that the animal received no grain, and was fed nothing but
grass and hay, her record is worthy of a place beside the celebrated Oakes
cow. The Oakes cow, it will be remembered, produced four hundred and
eighty pounds of butter besides suckling her calf for five weeks, and all
between the fifth of April and the twenty-fifth of September. She received,
however, in addition to her full allowance of grass, a bushel of corn-meal per
week, and all her own milk skimmed. The Vermont cow, upon grass and hay
alone, produced during the year 1865, five hundi-ed and four pounds of butter,
and the following is her record, given by her owner, Mr. A. Scott of Crafts-
bury, Vermont :
Dec. 30tb, 1864, to Apr. 20tli, 1865, 200 lbs. @ 60 cents per lb $120.00
" 54.00
" 16.00
" 17.00
" 16.50
" 11.00
Apr. "
" " Aug.
" 180 lbs. @ 30
Aug. "
" " Sept.
40 lbs. @ 40
Sept. "
" " Oct.
34 lbs. @ 50
Oct. "
" " Nov.
30 lbs. @ 55
Nov. "
" " Dec.
20 lbs. @ 55
Total for the year, - 504 lbs. $234.50
This cow is described by her owner as of good size, and of native breed,
and when purchased, four years before, was considered a very ordinary cow.
134 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The Oakes cow was also of native breed. In the Transactions of the New
York State Agricultural Society, we find a notice of several cows remarkable
for their large yield of butter during a short period, but it is not stated upon
what feed the animals were kept. Thus we have the Nourse cow of Danvers,
that produced fourteen pounds of butter per week for sixteen weeks ; the
Sanderson cow of Waltham, fourteen pounds weekly for the same length of
time ; the Hazelton cow of Haverhill, the Bosset cow of Northampton, and
Buxton of Danvers, the first two yielding fourteen pounds, and the last
sixteen pounds weekly for twelve weeks. Geo. Kerr, of Ontario Co., N. Y.,
reports nineteen pounds of butter from a native cow in one week, and sixteen
pounds weekly for the two succeeding weeks. T. Comstock of Oneida Co.,
from a three-fourths native and one-fourth Durham cow, seventeen pounds five
ounces in one week, and C. D. Miller of Madison Co., twenty and one-half
pounds in one week ; and from the same source we learn that G. A. Mann
of Onondaga Co., made sixty-seven and a-half pounds of butter from the
milk of one cow, in thirty days.
The Vermont Cow came in milk on the 15th of December, and on the
25th Mr. Scott commenced setting the milk. The first nine days she made
twenty-three pounds of butter, and in twenty-six days she had filled a tub of
fifty-two pounds. In the detailed statement which Mr. S. gives in reference
to the feed and management of this cow, we find considerable difierence from
the usual practice, and indeed from the commonly received opinion of farmers
on this question. He believes as much butter can be made in the barn by
having the cow come in in winter and fed upon hay, as in the summer upon
grass, and the remarkable results obtained seem to prove it. He does not
believe in feeding meal to cows, and has not fed any for the last five years.
He remarks : — " If I had a cow as good as one I spoiled with meal a few
years ago, I think, with my present treatment, she would make three
pounds of butter a day, instead of two and a-half as the cow alluded to above
has done."
MR. SCOTt's management OF COWS.
The management of his stock is as follows : The cows are fed on hay three
times a day, no more or less ; are watered morning and evening, and then put
back into the stall, and kept there night and day during the winter. The
amount of hay fed to this cow did not vary a pound from twenty-five pounds
a day ; smaller cows take about twenty pounds. The hay that cattle eat, he
says, does them little good until they raise it up and chew it over in the cud ;
then it goes to form milk or flesh, as the case may be. If the animals have a
comfortable place to lie down in they commence chewing it over as soon as
they get their meals eaten, and when twelve o'clock comes they are ready for
their meal again, and so on until evening. There should always be regularity
in feeding and watering.
He describes his barn as double-boarded, outside and in, with double
windows, and so ventilated that the temperature may be controlled at pleasure,
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 135
even in the coldest weather. It is thrown open all round or shut up, just as
the weather happens to be, and is kept above freezing point. But another
important point, from which the highest results named have been reached, is
in securing the hay in such a manner that a large percentage of the nutritive
matter is retained. Haying is begun about the 8th of June, and finished, if
possible, by the 25th. Another crop is cut the last of August, and in some
places a third crop in September ; and he well remarks that instead of com-
mencing haying about the 4th of July and finishing in August and September,
as has been the practice from time immemorial, all the grass ought to be cut
and in the barn by July. Here then, after all, is a part of the secret of Mr.
Scott's success. It is in making the hay so that it shall be equal in nutritive
value, or nearly so, to the fresh grass of pastures. There can scarcely be a
doubt but that immense losses are sustained by our best farmers in this
matter of harvesting the hay crop. We do not commence harvesting early
enough, but wait until much of the nutritive value of the grass has been
wasted and used to form woody fiber, under the impression that we are
getting more bulk and therefore more available food. Some years ago Mr.
Lewis of Herkimei', abandoned the use of meal and grain in spring, believing
better results were obtained from early cut grass properly cured. I went out
to Mr. Lewis's farm in spring, and made a personal examination of his herd,
for the purpose of seeing how far flesh and condition could be maintained in
the way suggested, and I found the animals as thrifty as had been represented.
The experiment of Mr. Scott is valuable in this : it demonstrates the relative
value of early cut and late cut grasses, for no one can doubt the fact that his
hay must have contained a more than ordinary amount of nutrition to produce
the result — a result, we venture to say, which could not be realized from late
cutting. Most farmers are aware that hay as usually cut and stored is
insufiicient to keep milch cows in a full flow of milk for any considerable
length of time. When no additional food is given they fall oflT rapidly in
flesh, and the milk depreciates in quantity and quality, even if the cow has
all the hay she can consume.
INJURY FROM FEEDING CONCENTRATED FOOD.
There is another question raised by the experiment of Mr. Scott, and that
is, to what extent milch cows are injured by feeding concentrated food? He
asserts that he spoiled a cow by feeding meal. Of course cows are liable to
be injured by over-feeding ; but we are not prepared to admit that a judicious
use of meal will injure a cow for milk. The feeding of meal may be, and
doubtless is, more expensive than grass cut and prepared as he suggests ; and
admitting that such hay makes the most milk, it does not prove that meal fed
judiciously will spoil the animal, without it be from over-feeding. Cows
doubtless are injured and their lives shortened by excessive feeding of meal
and grains, but if hay is poor or cut after half of its nutritive elements have
passed away, the waste must be made up in some way in feeding, or the
animal runs down, and when turned to pasture, is a long while recuperating.
1.36 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
CUTTING AND COOKING THE FOOD,
i
But where considerable quantities of straw and coarse fodder are raised
on the farm, it may be of advantage to utilize it by cutting and cooking. In
the English dairies, as I have observed, stock is mostly wintered upon cut
straw, pulped tuniips, and oil cake. The food is not generally cooked. In
using cooked straw, a certain proportion of meal, bran, or ship stuffs is added
to make up a nutritive equivalent equal to good meadow hay, and the experi-
menters pretty generally agree that the gain by cutting and cooking is about
one-third ; that is, that the expense of food is one-third less than when hay
alone is used in the usual way. I have referred to this system in the account
1 gave of the Tbuesdale barn. A few years ago Hon. Wm. I. Skinnek
of Little Falls, N. Y., set up machinery and experimented during one
winter, to satisfy himself in regard to the system. He divided his stock,
feeding forty-four head upon straw and shippings, and twenty-six head upon
hay. The forty-four head were consuming four hundred and forty pounds of
oat straw and three hundred and fifty-two pounds of shippings per day, and
two men were employed to cut and steam the food and take care of the
stock. The whole expense was as follows :
440 lbs. straw, @ $10 pel- ton $2 20
352 lbs. shippings, @ 23^c., niurket price 7 92
2 men, at 9 shillings per day each 2 25
Wood, used for cooking per day. 39
$12 76
or twenty-nine "Cents for each head per day. Each cow received ten pounds
straw and eight pounds shipping per day. The twenty-six cows consumed
six hundred and fifty pounds of hay per day, and the expense for this lot was
as follows :
650 lbs. hay, @ $25 per tou $8 123^
Labor, 1 man, 9 shillings per day >. 1 123^
$9 25
or thirty-five cents per day for each cow, showing a balance in favor of straw
and shippings of six cents per day for each head. Cut straw averages about
five pounds to the bushel, and cut hay eight pounds. The eight pounds of
shippings make a little over ten quarts. I examined this stock several times
during the winter, and to all appearance those fed on the cooked food were
plump and doing better than the lot on hay. The several descriptions of
feed used are put at the market price that winter.
MR. E. w. Stewart's experiments.
Mr. E. W. Stewart of Erie Co., iN". Y., who has experimented largely
in cooking food for cattle, says : — " Steaming renders moldy hay, straw and
corn-stalks sweet and palatable, thus restoring their value ; renders peas and
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 137
beans agreeable food for horses as well as other stock, and thus enables the
feeder to combine more nitrogenous food in the diet of his animals. Half
hay and half straw, mixed and steamed, more than equals hay unsteamed.
When cows are kept in milk through the winter, cooking their food will
greatly increase the yield of milk." He estimates the saving in food for each
cow in milk at $8.00 for the season. Again he says, that a mixture of oil and
pea meal and bran makes an excellent food to produce milk, and keep up the
condition of the cow ; one and a-half pounds of oil and pea meal and three
pounds of bran mixed with ten pounds of hay steamed per day for each cow
weighing eight hundred pounds, will generally be sufficient. This, he says, has
been determined by his experiments, long and faithfully tried. And, he adds,
this may be thought a small quantity from which a cow of that size, at her
best season, could produce four gallons of milk and keep up her condition ;
but it must be remembered that four gallons of milk contain only about four
pounds dry matter, which will leave a supply for the thrift of the cow. And
when this sixteen pounds of hay, oil, and pea meal and bran, are thoroughly
cooked together the nutriment is all extracted by the animal. In experi-
menting to determine what amount of bran or meal upon straw would make
it equal to hay, he found two quarts bran and one quart corn meal on one
bushel of oat, wheat or barley straw rendered it equal to the best of hay.
When considerable quantities of coarse fodder are raised on the farm, doubt-
less cutting and steaming could be practiced with considerable advantage, but
it is a question whether it will pay to introdiice machinery for cooking early
cut hay, and the general impression of our dairymen is, that for this kind of
food, considering the extra labor and expense in cooking, there would be no
advantage.
cows CALVING.
The practice is now quite common in New York to allow cows to drop
their calves while confined in the stanchion. The practice is not to be recom-
mended. It is better as this critical time approaches, to sepax'ate the cow
from the herd, placing her in a roomy stable, where she may have perfect
freedom, and where she may be at liberty to perform the necessary office of
cleansing the young calf and giving it suck. In most cases parturition will
be natural and easy, and, as Mr. Flint remarks, " the less a cow is disturbed
or meddled with the better." Soon after calving a bran mashj made with
tepid water, should be given to the cow, which operates favorably on the
expulsion of the afterbirth.
SPBING AND SUMMER FEED FOR MILCH COWS.
There is a great difference of opinion among dairymen in reference to the
kinds of grain best adapted to milch cows in spring. Dairymen generally
suit their own convenience in this matter, without much regard to the opinion
of others. If they have raised and have on hand a surplus of corn, or barley,
or oats, they are very apt to feed one or the other as best suits their conven-
ience at the time ; and if grain is to be purchased, the matter of prices has
138 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
more of a controlling influence than what is best adapted to the animal
economy. So widely do people differ on this question that many prefer to
feed in spring nothing but hay, if of good quality, claiming that the cows will
be healthier when turned to grass, and that the net profits from the dairy will
be greater than where grain is used in spring feeding. In other words, that
the value of the grain fed in spring more than balances receipts from the
extra quantity of cream and butter produced ; and hence grain feeding in
spring must be very poor economy. Another class of dairymen, who claim
to have looked pretty closely to the profits to be realized from milch cows,
and to have compared results one year with another, say that nothing is
gained by having cows " come in milk " as early as February or March. They
prefer the months of April and May, as not only more agreeable, but actually
resulting in greater profits. They argue that cows " coming in milk " early
in the season, are more exposed to cold and storms which must injure the
health and weaken the constitution of the animal ; that it sooner wears out
the cow, and yields no more net profit than when a later date is had for
commencing the business of dairying. Why, they say, should one do extra
work in milking and nursing stock through the bad weather of February
and March, when the result from stock calving thus early, not only is no
pecuniary gain, but brings positive injury to the herd ?
Others insist that greater profits are realized when cheese and butter
making is commenced early in the season. But if we assume that cows are
to come in milk as early as March, then some kind of food other than hay
— at least hay as usually harvested — seems to be imperatively demanded,
in order to keep stock in decent condition as to health and strength, until
it comes to grass.
THE SECKBTION' OF MILK A HABIT.
Now, the secretion of milk is in some respects a matter of habit or educa-
tion, and should be promoted and kept up from its first flow. This cannot
be accomplished on late cut hay alone, since the cow cannot be induced to
consume the quantity necessary for her maintenance and a full yield of milk
of good quality. This will be made evident by comparing the constituents
of milk and those of ordinary meadow hay. Suppose the cow is yielding
but eight quarts or twenty pounds of milk per day. This will contain a little
over two and a-half pounds of dry material, as follows :
lbs.
Of casein 1000
Of butter 0.625
Of sugar 0.875
Of phosphate of lime 0.045
Other mineral ingredients 0.055
Total.... 3.600
Twenty pounds of ordinary hay contain of albuminous matter, fibrine and
casein, &c., say about 1.85 ; oil, butter, &c., say 5.36. So it will be seen that
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 139
thig quantity of hay (considering that a part of the nutritive matter is not
assimilated, and passes off in the excrement), will be mostly needed for the
manufacture of the milk alone, while a like quantity and more must be used
for her maintenance. Experience as well as science amply demonstrates
the fact that late cut hay when used as an exclusive food for milch cows
is insufficient to produce milk rich in quality and large in quantity. Mr. J.
B. La WES of Rothamsted, England, in a recent paper on the
EXPENDITUKE OF FOOD BY EESPIEATION,
says: — "If there is one thing which is more firmly established by scientific
inquiry tljan another, it is that actual waste or expenditure of substance is
going on during the whole period of our existence, and that unless this waste
be compensated by food, death must quickly ensue.
" The nearest approach to the continuance of life without food is in the
case of those animals which pass through a period of hybernation. A dor-
mouse for instance, sleeps through a great part of the winter; the little
animal becomes cold to the touch, shows no sign of respiration, and is to all
appearance dead. Nevertheless, careful experiments have proved that slow
respiration is going on all the time, accompanied with gradual loss of
substance ; and if the cold weather be sufficiently prolonged, or the animal
be subjected by artificial means to a continuance of low temperature, death
will take place ; if not from other causes, at any rate as soon as there ceases
to be a supply of accumulated fat, or other material within the body, avail-
able for the purposes of respiration.
" Indeed, the resources of the body itself, unreplenished by food, can
supply the necessary material for Avaste for only a limited period. The
minimum amount of food required to maintain existence will vary for a given
live weight according to the description of the animal, the description of the
food, the conditions of life and individual peculiarities. But, to say nothing
of other losses, as part of the substance of the body passes off into the
atmosphere with every respiration, it is absolutely certain that death cannot
be far off whenever the supply of food is stopped.
" The fact of a constant expenditure of food by respiration has a very
important bearing on the economy of the farm. Every animal that is kept,
whether for labor or for the production of meat, requires a given amount of
food for the mere maintenance of life. If it receive more than this, the
remainder may serve to enable the working animal to perform his labor or
the meat-making animal to increase in substance and in weight, and conse-
quently in value.
" It may be mentioned, in passing, that direct experiments have proved
that the expenditure by respiration is very much greater within a given time
while an animal is awake than while it is asleep ; and again, very much
greater in exercise than when at rest.
" Confining attention to the case of the animals fed for the butcher, it will
140
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
be obvious that the economy of the feeding process will be the greater the
less the amount of food expended by respiration in the production of a given
amount of increase ; and it is equally obvious that one ready and efficient
means of lessening the j)roportiou of the waste or expenditure to the increase
produced, is to lessen, as far possible, the time taken to produce it ; in other
words, to fatten as quickly as possible.
" An example taken from the ordinary practice of the farm clearly illus-
trates the point, and shows the great importance of bearing the facts in mind.
From the results of numerous experiments made at Rothamsted, it may be
assumed that on the average a pig weighing one hundred pounds will, if
supplied with as much barley meal as he will eat, consume five hundred
pounds of it, and double his weight — that is, increase from one hundred
pounds to two hundred pounds live weight, in sixteen or seventeen weeks.
The following table shows the amount of dry or solid constituents in the five hundred
pounds of barley meal, and how they will be disposed of in the case supposed :
500 POUNDS OP BARLEY MEAL PRODITCE 100 POUNDS INCREASE AND SUPPLY.
Nitrogenous substance,
Non-nitrogenous substance,
Mineral matter,
Total dry substance.
In Food.
Lbs.
52
357
11
420
In 100
Inckease.
In Man-
ure.
Lbs.
7.0
66.0
0.8
73.8
Lbs.
I 59.8
10.2
70.0
In Kespi-
EATION,
Lbs.
276.2
276.3
" From the figures in the table we learn that the four hundred and twenty
pounds of dry or solid substance which the five hundred pounds of barley
meal contain, about seventy-four are stored up in the one hundred pounds of
increase in live weight, about seventy are recovered in the manure, and two
hundred and seventy-six, or nearly two-thirds of the whole, are given off" into
the atmosphere by respiration and perspiration — that is to say, are expended
in the mere sustenance of the living meat and manure-making machine,
during the sixteen or seventeen weeks required to produce the one hundred
pounds of increase.
" But now let us suppose that instead of allowing the pig to have so much
barley meal as he will eat, we make the five hundred pounds of barley meal
last many more weeks. The result would be that the animal would appro-
priate a correspondingly larger proportion of the food for the purposes of
respiration and perspiration, and a correspondingly less proportion in the
production of increase. In other words, if the five hundred pounds of barley
meal be distributed over a longer period of time, it will give less increase in
live weight, and a larger proportion of it will be employed in the mere main-
tenance of the life of the animal. Indeed, if the period of consumption of
five hundred pounds of meal be sufiiciently extended, the result will be that
Practical Dairy Husbandbt. 141
no increase whatever will be produced, and that the whole of the food,
excepting the portion obtained as manure, will be expended in the mere
maintenance of the life of the animal. The conclusion is obvious, that
provided the fattening animal can assimilate the food, a given amount of
increase will be obtained with a smaller expenditure of constituents by
respiration, the shorter the time taken to produce it. In fact, by early
maturity and the r£,pid fattening of stock, a vast saving of food is effected.
It is true that the flavor and quality of the meat of the one-year old sheep
or the two or three-year old bullock, are not as good as that of the three or
four-year old sheep, or the four or five-year old ox. But it is obvious that
the mutton and beef of the older animals can only be produced with a much
greater expenditure of food, and generally at an increased money cost, which
must put them beyond the reach of a great majority of consumers."
HORSF all's experiments.
Some of the most valuable experiments for feeding milch cows are those
made by Mr. Horsfall of England. By affording a full supply of the
elements of food adapted to the maintenance and produce of the animal, he
was enabled to obtain as much milk, and that which was as rich in butter
during winter as in summer. He used, to some extent, cabbages, mangolds,
shorts, and other substances rich in the constituents of cheese and butter.
" My food for milch cows," he says, " after having undergone various modifica-
tions, has for two seasons consisted of rape cake, five pounds, and bran, two
pounds for each cow, mixed into a sufiicient quantity of bean straw, oat straw,
and shells of oats, in equal proportions, to supply them three times a day with
as much as they will eat. The whole of the materials are moistened and
blended together, and after being well steamed, are given to the animal in
a warm state. The attendant is allowed one pound to one and a-half pounds
per cow, according to circumstances, of bean meal, which he is charged to give
to each cow in proportion to the yield of milk, those in full milk getting two
pounds each per day, others but little. It is dry and mixed with the steamed
food, on its being dealt out separately. When this is eaten up, green food
is given, consisting of cabbages from October to December, kohl-rabi till
February, and mangolds till grass time," His cows under this treatment
usually yield from twelve to sixteen quarts of milk (wine measure) per
day, for about eight months after calving, when they fall off in milk, but
gain flesh up to the time of calving. From these experiments, conducted in
a careful manner, it would seem that food rich in albuminous matter produced
the best results. Bean meal contains twenty-eight per cent, of this substance.
Beans are not used in this country as food for stock, but if we select other
grains, rich in cheesy matter, the principle may be carried out, and satisfactory
results obtained.
The three grains containing albuminous or flesh-forming matter in largest
proportion next to beans (if peas aro excepted), ai*e rye, oats and barley, each
142 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
containing from ten to fourteen and a-half per cent. ; these, when ground into
meal and mixed in equal quantities, taking their usual market value into con-
sideration, are perhaps the best that can be selected. My own experience
in the use of these grains as a spring food for milch cows corresponds with that
of others as giving most satisfactory results. I have used oats and peas ground
into meal together, and could wish for no better feed, but the cost was more,
which was not met by increased production of milk. Bai'ley and oats ground
and mixed together have also been used with good results. Corn-meal I deem
objectionable, on account of its heating nature. Its influence at times is very
deleterious, having been known to lessen the quantity and injure the quality
of milk, and in some instances dry up the cows. Bran is a very valuable feed
for milch cows ; it is rich in phosphates and nitrogenous or flesh-forming
material, and when mingled with oat meal, gives the very best results.
FEEDING GRAIISr IN SUMMER.
On the question of feeding cows grain through the summer, the general
opinion among dairymen is, that it does not pay so long as the herds have an
abundance of good grass. When shorts and bran can be obtained at cheap
rates, and feed is beginning to fail, they may doubtless be employed with
profit. Mingled with the hay and fed to cows, the milk gives a larger per-
centage of cream, while the quantity of milk also is increased.
The most natural, and of course the healthiest food for milch cows in
summer is the green grass of our pastures. When cows are giving an extra
quantity of milk, and in consequence are milking down thin and poor, it will
be advisable to use concentrated food. The principle to be understood is that
milk of good quality and large quantity depends upon food, and that the
condition and strength of the animal must at all times be kept up. If allowed
to run down and become poor and weak, we are undermining the constitution
of the cow, and by inattention and neglect defeating the ends by which our
best interests are to be promoted.
TURNING TO GRASS.
When cows are first turned to grass in spring, if feed is abundant, they
should not be allowed in the pasture but a few hours each day, for several
days — the change of food should be gradual. Serious troubles have some-
times resulted from inattention to this point, especially when turning cows
into luxuriant afterfeed in autumn.
SALTING cows.
Another important matter in the management of dairy stock is to have it
properly provided with salt. The best way to salt dairy cows is to have the
salt in some place conveniently located for stock, Avhere daily access may be
had to it, and the animals allowed to take whatever their appetites crave. It
may be placed in boxes arranged in the feed alley of the stables, or in troughs
in the shed, or open yard. Where cows have free access to salt, they soon
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 143
regulate their appetite to the daily use of small quantities of it, taking no
more than is required to promote health. Animals require more or less salt,
according to the character of their food, and the practice of salting at certain
intervals is often injurious, since they are liable to ovex'feed of it, causing
excessive scouring and derangement of health. This is particularly the case
when salt is thrown out to stock indiscriminately in the fields at intervals of
a week or more. In such cases the master cows not unfrequently gorge
themselves, preventing the weaker animals from getting a due supply, and
thus one part of the herd is injured by overfeeding, and the other part by
not obtaining what is needed. When the animals have access to salt, nature
dictates as to its use, and hence the best results, both as to health and yield
of milk, follow. Salt is very necessary for milch cows. Without it the milk
becomes scanty and imperfect. It is an important element in the blood, and
furnishes the soda necessary to hold the cheesy part of the milk in solution.
Haidlin found in one thousand -pounds of milk, analyzed by him, nearly half
a pound of free soda, and over a third of a pound of chloride of sodium.
There was also one and three-quarter pounds of chloride of potassium. There
are various pui-poses in the animal economy that require salt, and cows in
milk should at all times have free access to it. Perhaps the greatest necessity
for its use is in spring, when cows are first turned to pasture. The food then
is rather deficient in saline matter, and does not furnish sufl[icient for a large
quantity of milk. As grass becomes more mature the mineral elements are
more abundant, and there is less desire on the part of animals for salt. It is
on this account and because cows have been dried of their milk, that in
winter much less salt is required in the dairy than in summer. From experi-
ments that have been made it has been found that in May and June, when
milch cows have been deprived of salt for several days, the milk shrunk from
one to two per cent, in quantity, and from two to four per cent, in quality.
Later in the season the experiments showed less difference. Thus it will be
seen that dairy stock, to produce the best results, should have a daily supply
of salt, and that the quantity is much better regulated by the animal than it
can be by the stock-keeper who doles it out at intervals.
WATER FOR COWS.
I have alluded to the importance of providing milch cows with good
water, and something more may be said on this point, because it is one of the
secrets of success, which the great majority of dairymen to-day do not fully
comprehend. The importance of providing an abundance of water for cows
in milk cannot be over-estimated. Every practical dairyman must have
observed how rapidly cows shrink of their milk in hot, dry weather, when
water is scarce and the animals do not get their usual supply. But although
in such cases the cause of milk falling ofi" is traced to its true source, many
forget to take a hint from such observation in their management of milch
stock during the summer and fall. Cows of course will live where the daily
144 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
I
supply of water is limited, and by yielding a less quantity of milk, they adapt
themselves to the circumstances under which they are placed. And if water
is not abundant or is situated in out of the way places, where it is not easy
of access, the animals soon educate themselves to get along with a much less
quantity than they would were it placed befoi-e them in abundance. Up to a
certain point, the animal will accommodate herself without complaint to the
conditions, and it often happens that because cows show no very marked
uneasiness nor falling off in flesh, it is supposed they get all the water which
they require, when in point of fact they are taking only a limited supply.
Herds thus situated do not yield large returns. The fault is not in the cows,
but in their management. ISTow, milch cows should rather be induced to take
all the water they will, and at no time should they be allowed to suffer from
thirst. A cow that gives a large quantity of milk, must of necessity require
more water, other things being equal, than the cow that gives only a small
quantity of milk, for we must remember that of the constituents of milk
eighty-seven parts or thereabout are water. To what extent the quantity of
milk can be increased and at the same time a good quality be secured, by
inducing the animal to take an abundant quantity of liquid, is still a question
undetermined, but that milk of good quality can in this manner be increased
and without injury to the animal, there is not the slightest doubt. Upon
this point we have some interesting experiments by M. Dancel, as communi-
cated to the French Academy of Sciences. He found that by inciting cows
to drink large quantities of water, the quantity of milk yielded by them can
be increased several quarts per day without materially injuring its quality.
The amount of milk obtained, he says, is approximately proportional to the
quantity of water drank. Cows which, when stall fed with dry fodder, gave
only from nine to twelve quarts of milk per day, at once produced from
twelve to fourteen quarts daily, when their food was moistened by mixing
with it from eighteen to twenty-three quarts of water per day. Besides
this water taken with the food, the animals were allowed to drink at the same
intervals as before, and their thirst was excited by adding to their fodder a
small quantity of salt. The milk produced under the water regimen, after
having been carefully analyzed and examined as to its chemical and physical
properties, was adjudged to be of good quality, and excellent butter was
obtained from it.
The precise proportion of water which can thus be given to cows with
advantage, he says, is a point not readily determinable, since the appetite for
drink differs very considerably in different animals. But by observing the
degree of the appetite for drink in a number of cows, by taking note of the
quantity of water habitually consumed by each of the animals in the course
of twenty-four hours, and contrasting this quantity with that of the milk
produced, M. Dancel asserts that any one can see that the yield of milk is
directly proportionate to the quantity of water absorbed. He asserts, more-^
over, that a cow that does not habitually drink so much as twenty-seven
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 145
quarts of water per day — and he has met with such — is actually and necessa-
rily a poor milker. She will give only from five and a-half to seven quarts
per day. But all the cows he has seen which drank as much as fifty quarts
of water daily, were excellent milkers, yielding from nineteen to twenty-three
quarts of milk. In his opinion the quantity of drink consumed by a cow is
a valuable test of her worth as a milk producer.
Now, whether the inferences drawn by Dancbl from his experiments be
strictly true in any particular or applicable in all cases, need not be discussed
for the present, but they illustrate in some degree at least, facts familiar to
practical men. The most common observer must have taken note that in the
human family the mother suckling her infant requires and consumes more
liquids than she did before or after her period of nursing. And the practical
dairyman must have been dull indeed if he has not observed the difference in
the appetite of cows for water before and after they have begun to give milk.
The lesson which practical dairymen should learn from these facts is, that
cows to yield the best returns must be provided with an abundance of pure
water, so located that it is easy of access at all times. In fine, that induce-
ments held out in this way for cows to drink, are a paying investment to
dairymen. But while milch cows can be made to yield larger returns by a
judicious use of liquids, we cannot recommend pushing the point to that
excess which may affect the health of stock or reduce the quality of milk to
a low standard,
FALL FEEDING.
As pastures begin to fail the latter part of July, soiling in part either with
green corn fodder, lucerne, millet, oats, or clover must be resorted to, for
keeping up a flow of milk, until cows go to the aftermath. It is essential that
the flow of milk be kept up, for if cows are allowed to fall off in milk at this
season of the year, it will be impossible to bring them back again by fall
feeding. I need not discuss this point further, and I have only a word more
in relation to the fall treatment of stock, since it is here that many dairymen
make very grave mistakes. As the season advances occasional frosts begin
to appear, and although grass may be abundant it is flashy and the frosts
injure materially its nutritive value.
At this season more than any other cows are apt to milk down poor, and
often before the dairyman is fully aware of the fact. If it is desirable to
keep up a flow of milk, a little bran or ground grain can be used with profit ;
even a few nubbins of corn fed daily will prove serviceable in keeping uj) the
strength and condition of the animal. But this is not all ; the cold storms
and frosty nights are injurious unless the animals are sheltered. Cows in
milk, as I have remarked, are susceptible to cold, and if not protected from
the inclement weather fall off rapidly in flesh and milk ; even in summer a
cold rain storm lessens the quantity of milk, as every dairyman must have
observed ; but towards the approach of winter, after yielding milk for several
months, the general tone of the system is reduced, and the animal is unable
10
146 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
to withstand sudden changes without being injuriously affected. Stock that
is reduced in flesh at the commencement of winter, will require at least a
quarter more food to bring it through to grass than it would did it
start in high condition. This fact is lost sight of by many who suffer their
cattle to run down in the fall, milking them late, and allowing them to be
exposed to all kinds of weather. In cold, stormy nights during the fall cows
will do better in the stable, even with no feed, than to be left out exposed to
the inclemencies of the weather. What little food they pick up at such times
is not of much account ; they will seek out some sjDot that affords a partial
protection from the storm and cold, huddle together, and stand there shiver-
ing and discontented till morning. It is at such times that more or less injury
is done to the underlings of the herd from being hooked and driven about by
master cows. Perhaps at no season of the year does stock require more care
and attention than late in the fall, and at no season is it so generally neg-
lected. Many never think of housing an animal at this season so long as the
ground remains uncovered with snow, and many fancy they are saving fodder
by withholding food so long as there are patches here and there of frozen
aftermath, that are not eaten down. Such persons are often found complain-
ing that their hay rapidly wastes away after feeding has commenced, and is
wanting in nutrition ; that their stock comes out thin in spring, and the yield
of milk during the summer is less than it should be. They have no definite
idea where the trouble lies ; it is either in the hay or in the season, or in the
cows, and they mourn over their bad luck, when in fact the real cause of all
the trouble arose from neglect and want of care and attention in the fall
treatment of stock.
Cows that are expected to yield largely must have careful treatment and
liberal feed — they must be protected from the inclement weather in roomy, well-
ventilated stables. The importance of comfortable, well-lighted and well- ventil-
ated stables for milch cows is imperfectly understood, although much has been
written on the subject. It should be remembered that a lai-ge share of the
food eaten is used in furnishing warmth to the animal, and if we can supply
warmth by artificial means, it will be equivalent to a certain percentage of
food. Good shelter, therefore, serves in part for food. It has been well
remarked that " beside the actual loss of food from the increased amount
required under exposure to cold, there is a further loss in milk from the feeling
of discomfort. The secretions are always disturbed by influences that cause
pain or uneasiness, and every shiver of a half-frozen cow will make itself
visible in the milk pail." It will often therefore, be a matter of economy for
dairymen to commence feeding cabbages, the tops of roots, or small quantities
of grain, just as soon as the grasses of the pasture have been touched with
frosts. A daily allowance of bran, shorts, or ground feed of barley and oats,
or oats and corn, in the proportion of two parts oats to one of corn, will be
of the greatest service in keeping up a flow of milk and at the same time
keeping the animal in health and condition.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 147
There are many more topics in regard to the management of stock which
I could have wished to discuss, but enough perhaps has been said to give an
outline of the more important requisites in this branch of dairy management.
KAISIN'G CALVES.
In raising calves they should always have a good start, and for this pur-
pose I know of nothing equal to milk as it is drawn from the cow. Some
people recommend separating the calf from the cow a day or two after it is
dropped. I think it should be allowed to run with the cow and have all
the milk it can take for at least four or five days. Ordinarily the cows milk
will not be in a proper condition for human food under four or five days from
the time of dropping her calf, though many dairymen who are anxious to
make the most out of the milk insist that it is good enough for cheese-making
at the fourth milking.
After the calf is taken from the cow it should be generously fed with new
milk until it is two weeks old at least. This should be the earliest period at
which the commencement of any substitute for new milk ought to be given.
I should prefer to feed new milk for some time longer, but still very good
calves may be raised by compounding a food for them a little less expensive
than new milk.
If skim milk can now be afforded, the calves will thrive on liberal feeding,
but the cheese dairymen often feel that even skim milk is too expensive to be
long continued, and are not satisfied till the diet of the calf is reduced to whey.
Now, if whey and oil meal be properly prepared, it can be made to sei've as
a very good substitute for milk. The whey should be dipped off" when sweet
from the vat, then bring it to the boiling point and turn it upon the oil meal.
Let the mixture stand till night, and then feed. In the morning, whey sweet
from the vat may be fed. At the commencement a little less than a pint of
oil meal per day will be sufficient for four calves. This may be gradually
increased till each calf has a daily ration of half a pint. At first it is better
not to feed calves all the whey they Avill drink at a time. A large feed of
whey cloys the appetite and deranges the health. A half pail of whey at
first is enough for a feed, which may be increased to three-fourths of a pail
and a pail, as the calf increases in age. Two meals a day, if the calf runs in
a good pasture, is sufficient. Calves fed in this way ought not to be weaned
until they can get a good bite of afterfeed from the early cut meadows. It
is important to keep them in a growing, thrifty condition, with no check.
When weaned earlier, their growth is often checked by reason of short, dry
or innutritions feed in pastures. When whey cannot be had, the following
substitute for milk in feeding calves is recommended by the Irish Farmers'
Gazette: — "Take three quarts of linseed meal and four quarts of bean meal,
and mix with thirty quarts of boiling water, when it is left to digest for
twenty-four hours, and it is then poured into a boiler on the fire, having
thirty-one quarts of boiling water. It is here boiled for half an hour, being
148 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
stirred with a perforated paddle to prevent lumps and produce perfect incor-
poration. It is then set aside to cool, and is given blood warm. When first
used it is mixed with milk in small quantity. The milk is gradually decreased
till they get the mucilage only. Indian meal may be given in place of bean
meal, and perhaps pea meal would serve the same purpose as bean meal, the
latter not being common in this country. I have used buckwheat meal
cooked into a porridge and added to whey, for calves, with good results, and
I have no doubt that buckwheat meal could be substituted for bean meal in
the mixture, and make a good feed. It is desirable and important to feed the
calf well and hasten the maturity of the young animal so that it will come in
milk at two years old. Many complain that they are unable to have their
heifers in milk until three years of age. Heifers coming in milk at two years
of age invariably make better milkers than those coming in milk a year later,
to say nothing of the profit of one season's milk. It will be seen, then, that
a little extra care and feed pays well, in order to an early maturity of the
animal."
Mr. Brown of Herkimer Co. prefers March calves in selecting stock to raise.
The calves are fed new milk for two weeks, at the rate of eight quarts per day
each. After this, commence adding whey to the milk, and feed in this way
up to the twentieth of April. By this time, if there is a suflicient quantity of
whey made daily, no milk is given, but oil meal is made to take the place of
milk, the quantity for each calf being at the rate of one-half pint of dry meal
per day. Boiling water is turned upon the meal, which increases its bulk,
in a few minutes, to three times the quantity of dry meal. It is then mixed
with the scalding whey, and when sufiicienlly cool given to the calves.
About three-fourths of a pail of whey to each at a mess, and two feeds per
day are deemed sufiicient. The calves are turned out to grass as soon as a
good bite can be had, but the M^hey and oil meal are allowed daily until the
time for turning into good fresh after feed, when its use is discontinued and
the calves weaned. In this way good thrifty calves are raised, which winter
well, and to all appearance are as healthy and in as good growing condition
as though they had been raised on milk. The calves are always provided
with a good shelter where they can go at will, out of storms. When oil
meal cannot be had, oat meal is substituted, at the rate of two-thirds of a
pint for each per day. The whey should be scalded, as in this condition it is
better adapted to the anirual, and has a tendency to prevent scouring.
RAISING CALVES ON THE SOILING PRINCIPLE.
Mr. G. D. Curtis of Wisconsin, contributes the following to the Boston
Cultivator : — " About the first of April last, I began raising ten heifer calves
for the dairy — taught them to drink at three or four days old, and fed them
the milk of five cows, two hundred weight corn meal, and what hay they
would eat, till May 15th. Milk and meal were then discontinued, and for the
next two months they had about ten quarts sweet whey per head a day, and
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 149
what clover and orchard grass they would eat, fed three times a day, of which
they consumed half an acre. The next sixty-three days they were fed the
sowed corn that grew on one-half an acre, and the same allowance of whey
as at first. About the twentieth of September they were turned into wheat-
stubble ground, seeded to grass last spring. When six months old the
heaviest one weighed four hundred and thirty pounds," live weight, and the
lot averaged four hundred pounds per head. The expense of cutting and
feeding the grass and cornstalks was about the same as harvesting and thresh-
ing an acre of wheat.
The milk fed, if made into cheese, $55.00
Two hundred weight corn meal at 16s, 4.00
Hay, estimated, 1.00
One acre land to wheat would have brought, 30.00
Value of whey, say 10.00
Eight tons of hay to winter them, 40.00
Total one year, $140.00
Equal to about fourteen dollars per head for yearlings, — about double the
cost of ' peace prices.'
" I have been engaged in dairying and stock-raising for the past twenty
years, and have tried nearly all the different ways of feeding calves, and
consider the experiment of the past season much the best. It produces very
superior animals, and is no more expensive than the other plans."
CALF SKINS.
When calves are to be slaughtered for veal, or killed at a very early age,
as is common in some dairy sections (in the latter case the hide and rennet
only being saved), some attention should be given to stripping off the hide
properly, and preparing it for market.
Calves that are to be "deaconed" should be allowed to live at least four
or five days, and when killed the throat should not be cut crossways, for it
can be bled just as well without. The skin should then be removed by slitting
the hide from the middle of the under jaw to the root of the tail, and down the
inside of the forelegs from between the dew-claws to the slit already made,
and down the outside of the hind legs over the gambrel joint, and then direct
to a point in the slit first named, midway between the teats and the roots of
the tail. It is the safest way to draw the skin off with a windlass or a horse,
but when this is inconvenient great care should be taken not to cut or hack
the skin, as a cut part way through the skin is quite as bad as a hole. Instead
of a knife for removing the skin, a bone or hard wood instrument shaped like a
knife should be used, as it can be done almost if not quite as rapidly and with
no danger to the skins. If the skin be a veal it should now be weighed and
the weight marked down, as veal skins are purchased by the pound. But
whether a " deacon " or a " veal " it should be stretched out on the floor or
some level place, and about two pounds of salt applied, taking care that
150 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
every spot is touched. The better way is, after sprinkling the skin as evenly
as possible, to take an old brush or the hand and rub the salt thoroughly in.
After lying for a day or two, if in the way, it should be hung up and allowed
to dry under cover, but not exposed to the sun. If the skins are on hand
after the first of June, they should be fx'equently whipped, to prevent the
working of moths. The taking off and care of skins should not be left to
young and careless boys, but should receive the personal attention of the
farmer, or some trusty person. For skins taken off in the above manner and
free from cuts, the tanner can afford to pay a price considerably above the
market for ordinary skins as they run. Damaged, " slunk and dead skins,"
have a value, but should be sold as such for what they are worth.
HOVEN IN CATTLE.
Among the many diseases of dairy stock, hoven^ or hove, as it is usually
termed, is of frequent occurrence. It is induced by a sudden change of diet,
as when animals in spring are turned from hay upon luxuriant pasturage, or
later in the season, by changing from the pasture to a full growth of after-
feed in meadows. Cows, when thus turned into fresh herbage, devour it
greedily, which produces over-distension of the rumen, followed quickly by
hove. A similar derangement of the digestive functions sometimes happens,
it is said, from feeding turnips, though the more frequent occurrence of this
disease coming under our observation, has been from a change of diet, and
where the animals have been allowed to gorge themselves upon luxuriant
grass. The food in such cases is imperfectly matured, the stomach becomes
loaded, the process of rumination is prevented, decomposition takes place,
gas is generated, and the animal becomes swollen with confined air that dis-
tends the paunch and intestines.
Great care should be exercised in the management of stock at the partic-
ular seasons referred to, since with proper precautions, the malady may often
be avoided. It is always best that the change of food should be brought about
by degrees, allowing the cows at first to take only a part of a meal, and con-
tinuing in this course for a few days until they have become somewhat
accustomed to the fresh grass. In spring, after having been restricted during
our long winters to dry food, a sudden change to a full supply of succulent
food will be apt to derange health, even if the animals by chance escape an
attack of hove. It will be well, too, on first turning to grass, that it be done
at such times as when the weather is dry and the herbage is not covered with
dew ; and this rule should be particularly observed on first turning stock into
luxuriant aftermath.
There is scarcely a dairyman of any considerable experience but has had
cases of hove more or less severe among his cows — and the loss of valuable
animals on account of the malady is of frequent occurrence. Indeed hove is
so sudden in its attack and the disease progresses so rapidly, that unless
speedy relief is given the animal dies. The fermentation which the food
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
151
undergoes is facilitated by the heat and moisture to which it is exposed while
in the rumen. The gaseous compounds produced by the fermenting process
vary according to its duration ; at first carbonic acid gas is evolved, but in
a short time this product gives place to carbureted hydrogen gas.
Various medicines have from time to time been recommended, but scarcely
any, with the exception of chloride of lime, is of much avail. When the
attack is not severe the animal often recovers without any assistance.
Chloride of lime is frequently found effectual in bad cases, administered in
a small quantity of water, the dose of chlorinated lime being from three to
four drachms. Used in time it effectually neutralizes the carbureted hydrogen
gas. In its action the chlorine quits the lime and unites with the hydrogen
and forms a substance — muriatic acid — with which the new uncombined lime
unites, and the result is a harmless substance — muriate of lime.
In severe cases there should be no delay in adopting the necessary treat-
ment, or the animal may be lost, for
death in this disease is caused by
suffocation. Immediate relief is given
by puncturing the rumen, a quite
simple operation when it is under-
stood, and one which should always
be resorted to in bad cases. As the
disease is of such a character that no
time is to be lost (for if the animal is
Fio. 1. to be saved, prompt action is re-
quired), every farmer should understand the nature of the operation and be
able to perform it. By observing the following diagrams but little difficulty
need be had in operating successfully.
It is important to bear in mind that the operation should always be per-
formed on the left side of the animal, in consequence of the inclination of the
rumen to that part of the abdominal cavity. Figure 1 is a sketch intended
to represent the first stomach in its natural situation ; a, the anterior pouch ;
J, the anterior-posterior, the one which is opened in these cases / c, the mid-
dle, and (?, the posterior-inferior.
The place of puncture is in the flank about three inches below the spinal
column, and mid-way between the last rib and the hip.
The instrument recommended by veterinary sugeons is called a trocar ;
it consists of a stilet, having a lancet-shaped
point and a sheath. We give Professor
SiMONDs' directions, as follows :
" The stilet should be about six inches in length, and when placed within
the sheath it should protrude about three-fourths of an inch ; its diameter
may vary from three-eighths of an inch to half an inch. In performing the
operation it is best to first puncture the skin with a lancet ; which having
been done, insert the point of the instrument in the wound and thrust the
152
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
stilet covered by the metal sheath inwards and slightly downwards, using
sufficient force to penetrate the coats of the rumen ; afterwards withdraw the
stilet leaving the sheath in the situation. The sheath is to remain until the gas
has escaped, when it is to be removed and the edges of the wound in the
skin brought together by a stitch of strong silk."
As farmers are not usually provided with the proper instruments for per-
forming the operation, a dirk-bladed
knife may be used, and a quill or any
small tube introduced into the punc-
ture for the escape of the offending
gas. There is no danger attending
the operation when the proper instru-
ment is used.
Figure 2 represents the point where
puncture should be made — at the
point where the lines a, h and c, d
intersect each other.
Fig. 2.
HUTCHINS' rUMIGATOR FOR DESTROYING LICE ON CATTLE.
The fumigator consists of an iron cylinder with a circular bellows attached
to one end, and the opposite end is
contracted into a nozzle, so as to be
easily inserted into the wool when
using it for sheep ticks. It also has
sieves at each end of the cylinder to
prevent the fire passing into the bel-
lows or out through the nozzle ; by
this means the smoke is never hot enough to do the least injury to animal
or plant.
The cylinder being filled with cut tobacco and pressed down a little, same
as you would fill a tobacco pipe, is ignited on top, and the smoke is forced
out through the nozzle by the action of the bellows.
For ticks on sheep, introduce the nozzle into the wool, and give one or two
good pufis ; then move it from two to four inches, and puif again, and so on
till you fill the fleece with smoke. It will take from two to four hours to
smoke one hundred sheep, and one pound of tobacco will be sufficient for that
number.
To kill lice on cattle, colts, &c., fill the hair with the smoke, then blanket
them. In all cases go over them again after the nits hatch. It is better to
take sheep into the open air to smoke them to prevent it making the operator
sick.
For lice on plants and bushes of all kinds, also for the currant worm,
squash bug, &c., cover the bushes or plants with some old clothes box, or
anything to hold the smoke, then give them a good smoking ; it will not
injure the plant, but will kill the vermin.
MILK.
Of all the vai'ious foods used for the support of human life milk is one of
the most perfect. It is almost the only food that will, when used alone,
support life, and maintain health and vigor for an indefinite length of time.
The earliest records of our race tell us of flocks and herds, and it may be
assumed that not only the milk of animals but that the products of milk, in
some form, have been employed in the diet of man from the most remote
times. But while milk has been the natural food of the young of ali mam-
malia, and while it Las been, for ages, both in its natural and manufactured
state, a blessing to the poor and a luxury to the rich, little was known com-
paratively of its composition, and of its behavior under certain peculiar
conditions, until within the last half century.
Milk is described by the chemists as a secretion produced from the
elements of blood and chyle, by the mammary gland of the female animal of
the order, majwinalia^ after giving birth to young. It is a whitish, opaque
liquid, of an agreeable, sweetish taste, and a faint but peculiar odor. It is
slightly denser than water. Cows' milk of good quality has a specific gravity
of about 1,030; woman's milk, 1,020 ; goat's and ewe's milk, 1,035 to 1,042;
and asses' milk 1,019; that of water being 1,000. Whatever food has the
efiect of inducing the secretion of a very large amount of water, must
necessarily give milk poor in quality. Such is the efiect when food is supplied
of distillers' grains, grass from irrigated meadows, acid slops, obtained by
allowing barley meal, cabbage leaves, and other vegetable matter mixed with
a great deal of water, to pass through the lactic acid fermentation. There
cannot be much question but that whey may be added to this class of food,
though there seems to be great difference of opinion among those who feed
whey to milch cows, as to its materially affecting the proportion of solid
constituents of the milk. We need a series of carefully conducted experi-
ments to satisfactorily determine this matter and put the question at rest.
Dr. VoELCKER is led to conclude from his experiments that milk is rich when
it contains twelve per cent, of solid matter and about three per cent of pure
fat. Anything above this is of extra rich quality.
154
Pbactical Dairy Husbandry.
SPECIFIC GEAVITT A TEST OE QUALITY.
The specific gravity of milk is an important test of its quality. From
experiments made in the Doctor's laboratory, for the pm-pose of ascertaioing
the influence of dilution upon the specific gravity of milk, and the quantity
of cream thrown uj), some useful hints are obtained. Water being the
standard at 1.000, cream 1.012 to 1.019, and good milk 1.0320, the tempera-
ture always being 62° Farenheit, the following results were obtained:
Specipic Gkavitt
Per Cent. Cbeah
IN Bulk.
Pure Milk at 62° Fahrenheit
" " and 10 per cent, of water,
" " 20
" " " 30
" " 40
" " " 50 " "
1.0320
1.0315
1.0305
1.0290
1.0190
1.0160
UK
10
Experiments with the hydrometer and direct weighing give the following ;
Specific Gravity at 62 o before
Skimming.
Specific Gravitt
at 62 o f. after
Skimming.
By Htdkometer.
By Direct
Weighing.
By Direct
Weighing.
Pure Milli,.
-|- 10 per cent, of water,.
-1-20 " " . .
-1-30
--40
--50
1.0320
1.0285
1.0250
1.0235
1.0200
1.0170
1.03141
1.0295
1.0257
1.0233
1.0190
1.0163
1.0337
1.0308
1.0265
1.0248
1.0208
1.0175
Another experiment made upon skimmed milk with hydrometer gave the
nwincr '
following
Specific Gratitt.
Skim Milk,.
with 10 per cent, of water,.
20
30
40
50
1.0350
1.0320
1.0265
1.0248
1.0210
1.0180
From these investigations the following conclusions are drawn :
1. That good new milk has a specific gravity of about 1.030.
2. That skim milk is a little more dense, being about 1.034.
3. That milk which has a specific gravity of 1.025 or less, is either mixed
with water or is naturally very poor.
4. That when milk is deprived of about ten per cent, of cream and the
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 155
original volume is made up by ten per cent, of water, the specific gravity of
such skimmed and watered milk is about the same as that of good new milk ;
this circumstance however, does not constitute any serious objection to the
hydrometer or lactometer, as milk skimmed to that extent cannot be mixed
with water without becoming so blue and transparent that no instrument
would be required to detect the adulteration.
5. That when unskimmed milk is mixed with only twenty per cent, of
water, the admixture is indicated at once by the specific gravity of about
1.025.
Mr. Flint gives the result of a test of difierent specimens of milk, the
hydrometer and lactometer being used on the morning's milk, at a tempera-
ture of of sixty degrees. The scale was graduated for pure milk at one hun-
dred degrees.
The first pint drawn from a native cow stood at 101 Degrees.
Strippings of same cow, 86 "
Milk of pure bred Jersey, 95 "
" " " Ayrshire, 100
" " " Hereford, 106
" " " Devon, Ill "
While their cream stood, 66 "
All these specimens of milk were pure, and milked at the same time in
the morning, carefully labeled, put in separate vessels, and set upon the same
shelf to cool off; and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to
twenty-five degrees ; or, taking the average quality of the native cow's milk
at ninety-three and one-half degrees, the variations amounted to seventeen
and one-half degrees. ■ But knowing the specific gravity at the outset, of any
specimen of milk, the hydrometer would show the amount of water added.
This cheap and simple instrument is therefore of frequent service. At the
cheese and butter factories the lactometer and cream gauges are the only
instruments employed to determine whether milk is delivered pure or has
been watered. It is found that notwithstanding the milk of different cows
in the same herd will vary considerably in specific gravity, still when it is all
massed together, the specific gravity of such milk, if compared with the milk
of different herds of a neighborhood, will be very nearly the same. It is
from this fact that the attempt has been made in New York to establish the
lactometer test as competent evidence in the courts, and some of the lower
courts have so ruled.
LACTOMETER IN COURT.
An interesting and important case was tried in 1868 at the Circuit Court
held at Herkimer, Judge Foster presiding, as to whether the hydrometer or
lactometer, as it is commonly called, be or be not a reliable milk test, and
alone competent to convict where the instrument indicates watered milk. The
suit was brought by the Treasurer of the Frankfort cheese factory against
one of its patrons, to recover a penalty for alleged violations of the law to
156
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
prevent adulteration or watering of milk. The plaintiff claimed that the
defendant at certain times during the year 1865 brought to the factory milk
which, when tested there by the hydrometer and cream gauges, indicated from
twelve to seventeen per cent, less specific gravity than pure milk, and hence
that it had been diluted with water. No other proof was in evidence except
the tests of the instruments at the factory as above named. The defendant
denied the allegation, and he and his three sons testified that the milking and "
Lactometer.
o
Theemometbk— Nickel Plated,
Floating Theemometeb.
carrying the milk to the factory had been done by them, and that no water,
to their knowledge, had ever been added to the milk.
The witnesses on the part of the plaintiff were the manager of the factory
and some of its patrons, together with several managers of factories from
different parts of the country and Canada, of large experience and of high
reputation. The plaintiff proved the testing of defendant's milk at the fac-
tory by the hydrometer and cream gauges — that it was deficient in cream
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 157
and indicated by the hydrometer from twelve to fifteen per cent, of water.
Several managers of factories stated that where the tests were applied to the
milk known to be pure, from different dairies, the variations were generally
no more than from two to three per cent, from the standard of pure milk.
Several of them testified also, that they regarded the lactometer to be per-
fectly reliable as a milk test, and that this conclusion had been arrived at from
hundreds and even thousands of tests of milk from dairies as it came to the
factory. The plaintiff's counsel attempted to show from reported analyses
of milk, and from other sources, that the variable constituents of milk, for
the most part, were the cream and the water, both of which were lighter
than pure milk, that consequently, where there was a deficiency of cream and
the specific gravity was less than pure milk, as had been shown in the milk
furnished by the defendant, it could be accounted for in no other way than
from adulteration or watering the milk.
The defense took the ground that the hydrometer was a mere float, well
adapted to determine the specific gravity of fluids and of milk, but that
the latter being made up of several constituents, all of which were liable
to vary from time to time, the specific gravity of the compound at the
factory gave no positive evidence of its quality as it came from the cow, unless
such quality had been clearly ascertained as a standard from which to make
comparisons. It was proved by several witnesses that in testing milk known
to be pure, from different cows, with the hydrometer, there was considerable
variation, sometimes as much as ten per cent.; and this variation had occured
where the cows were of the same breed, fed on the same kind of food, and
general treatment alike. It was proved from the books and from witnesses
that the quality of milk is affected by various circumstances, such as difference
of breed of the cows, quantity and quality of food, distance from time of
calving, withholding salt for a time, and then salting, health of stock, general
treatment, &c. From Voelcker's analysis of four samples of new milk, it
was shown that the water varied from 83.90 in one himdred parts, the butter
from 7.62 to 1.99, the caseine from 3.66 to 2.94, the milk sugar from 4.46 to
6.12, and the mineral matter from .64 to 1.13, making percentage of dry
matters vary from 16.10 to 10.05.
Another analysis of several specimens of milk was referred to in the
Keport of the Department of Agriculture, where the difference in constituents
was considerable, one specimen showing 93.0 of water, 1.8 of butter, 3.4 of
casein, .8 milk sugar, and .1 of salts— thus making a variation of water
between that and the specimen analyzed by Voelcker of over nine per cent.
The milk sugar varied nearly five per cent., and the ash over one per cent.
It was proved also that in making tests of milk with the hydrometer, great
care was necessary in having the temperature exact, and in having the milk
thoroughly mingled or stirred together, since the upper portion of the milk
was of less specific gravity than that at the bottom.
One of the witnesses testified to the following experiments made with
158 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the milk of different cows in his own dairy. I was present at the tests,
and 'helped to conduct the experiments :
First. A heifer's milk at 80°, when tried with the hydrometer marked the
instrument i° below zero, showing five per cent, variation from pure milk.
Second. Milk of cow eight years old at 80°, hydrometer stood i° below
zero, a variation of two and a-half per cent, from pure milk.
Third. Milk of all the cows mingled together in the vat at 80° ; hydro-
meter f° above zero, showing a variation of 3.75 per cent.
Fourth. Thin cream at 80°, taken from night's milk in the vat; hydro-
meter sunk below 10°, or the point graduated as pure water.
Fifth. Milk at 60°, taken from near the bottom of the vat, and where the
whole depth of milk in the vat was only four inches ; hydrometer stood 1 °
below zero, showing ten per cent, variation from pure milk line.
Sixth. A portion of the above milk in the vat, taken from the top at 60° ;
hydrometer stood f ° below zero, or 3.75 per cent, variation.
Seventh. The above milk thoroughly stirred and mingled together in the
vat, and at 60° ; hydrometer |° below zero, or 7^ per cent, variation.
Eighth. The same milk above, stirred together and raised to 80° ; hydro-
meter ^° above zero, or one and a quarter per cent, lighter than pure milk.
Ninth. Milk from twelve years old cow at 80°; hydrometer |° above
zero, showing five per cent, water.
Tenth. Milk from eight years old cow at 80° ; hydrometer stood at zero,
or pure milk mark.
Eleventh. Milk from a two years old heifer at 80° temperature; hydro-
meter |-° above zero, or five per cent, variation.
Twelfth. Milk from a two years old heifer, 80° temperature ; hydrometer
i° above zero, or two and a-half per cent, variation.
Greatest variation in milk of different cows as above tested at 80° tem-
perature, one degree or ten per cent.
For every 2.28° of temperature the hydrometer marked one per cent,
variation.
I have thus given some of the leading points as brought out in this
case in regard to the hydrometer or lactometer. The arguments of counsel
on both sides were able, as was also the Judge's charge to the jury, which,
after a mature deliberation, brought in a verdict for the defendant, thus
settling the question that the hydrometer alone, in cases of this kind, is not
sufficient to convict.
^ The Court House was densely crowded and great interest manifested by
dairymen and others during the whole time this case was being tried, which
lasted two days. Counsel for plaintiff, Hon. R. Earl and Brother, of Herki-
mer; for defendant, Hon. Roscoe Conkling and Hon. F. Keenan. I
may remark here, in closing, that the result of this suit does not lessen the
value of the hydrometer and cream gauges in the hands of intelligent persons.
They act as sentinels, warning the operator of any unusual condition of the
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
159
milk, and when such occurs he should not hastily jumi? at conclusions, but look
carefully at all the causes likely to have influence in the case, and then make up
his judgment upon them.
TEST OF "WATERED MILK.
In making a test for watered milk, two equal glass jars or cream gauges
are taken, and a small jar which is graduated and used for a one per cent,
glass. ISTow one of the cream gauges is filled to gauge mark, ten, with milk
which is known to be pure and drawn from several cows. This will be the
standard for pure milk for that day. Fill the other glass, to the same number,
.10
-20
t 30
.10
-20
.30
Ceeam Gauge. Per Cent. Glass. Cbeasi Gauge.
with milk from the can you wish to test. To avoid any mistake, mark the
first jar pure milk, by putting the letters P. M. on the side or bottom. Set
the jars away, side by side, a sufficient length of time for the cream to rise.
Now note the quantity of cream on each. If a less quantity is found on the
milk you are testing than on the other, it indicates dilution or skimmed milk.
Now remove the cream from each with a spoon; introduce the hydrometer
or lactometer into the jar marked P. M. and note on the scale mark where it
160 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
floats. Now place the hydrometer into the other. If it sinks lower than in
the first, it is very strong evidence of dilution with water. Replace the'
lactometer in jar marked P. M. and from per cent, glass filled with water
exactly to or zero, pour into P. M. jar until the lactometer sinks exactly to
the same point as in the other jar. Now count or number on per cent, glass
from zero down (each mark represents half of one per cent.), and you will
have precisely the percentage of water with which the milk you are testing
has been diluted. Care must be taken to have the temperature of the samples
the same.
EECENT MILK TESTS,
The subjoined results of milk examinations made during the present year,
1871, by Mr. J. A. Waukltn, member of the Royal Bavarian Academy of
Sciences, and published in the London Milk Journal, will be of interest in
this connection : — " In making examinations of milk for sanitary or commer-
cial purposes, it is customary to use determinations of specific gravity as
indices of the strength of milk. It is, howevei-, recognized that owing to
the circumstance of cream being lighter than water, while skimmed milk is
heavier, the indication of strength afforded by a determination of specific
gravity is not very precise. Obviously, if in addition to the specific gravity,
the percentage of cream were taken, a connection could be applied so as to
rectify the indication of strength derived from specific gravity. In the course
of an examination of milk, undertaken for this Journal, the observation was
made that there is another source of inaccuracy hitherto quite unsuspected.
Skimmed milk consists mainly of water, caseine, milk-sugar, and a small
quantity of mineral salts. Now, the exact molecular condition of the caseine
influences the specific gravity of milk. In other words, samjiles of milk of
the same strength will vary in specific gravity according to the exact mole-
cular condition of the caseine. Especially are these changes in condition
brought out if milk be kept for a while. This is illustrated by the following
examples.
" In attempting to analyse articles of general consumption, with a view to
determine the extent of adulteration, it is necessary to operate on a large
number of samples obtained from bona fide purchasers, and to adopt means
calculated to ensure comparable results. We do not intend on this occasion
to enter fully into the subject of milk analysis, but we may state that plans
commonly adopted are of little worth. We have had to notice the untrust-
worthiness of specific gravity determinations of milk — that is to say, the
danger of judging of the strength of milk by its specific gravity. To be of any
value at all, the specific gravity determination must be made while the sample
of milk is very fresh. After milk has been kept for two or three' days, even
in a closed vessel, its specific gravity falls in a very remarkable manner. The
following examples exhibit this in an extreme form. The specimens of milk
had been kept in corked bottles for four days :
Pb. ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry.
161
Sample «,
Showing that the highest specific gravity sometimes accomisanies the lowest
percentage of solids. The reason of this want of correspondence between
specific gravity and solid contents we have already explained. Meanwhile,
in judging of the strength of milk, we propose to adhere to the method of
evaporating to dryness in the water-bath, and weighing the residue.
" We have examined seven samples of milk sent to us by diflferent persons,
with a request that they should be examined. We have found in one hundred
parts by weight of each, as follows :
No. 1,
2,
3,
4,
5,
6,
7,
" The sample No. 6 is a gross case of dilution. It is milk supplied to a
workman's family in Bethnal-green, and contains no less than four parts of
water to six of milk. Samples Nos. 5 and 7 are not so bad, but unless dilu-
tion had been practiced, the milks were exceedingly and abnormally poor.
" We recently obtained a specimen of country milk from the Dairy Reform
Company. We procured it in the perfect confidence that, if pure unadulterated
milk can be obtained from any source, it can be obtained from this admirably-
managed association. The specific gravity was 1024.8, taken with great care
with an accurate balance, at a temperature of 60® Fahr. As a crucial test
we sent a special messenger to the Victoria Dairy, in Union Street, Hackney,
to obtain four samples of milk from one cow. We wished to test the milk as
drawn straight into the sample bottles from each quarter of the udder. The
results were :
Sp. gr., at
60° Falir.
Right side, front quarter 1020.4
Leftside, " " 1021.3
Right side, hind quarter ^. ., 1023.0
Leftside, " " 1023.5
"The cows in this dairy are well cared for, and fed on meal, clover, and
other foods calculated to give a good qualitv of milk ; but we thought the
11
162 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
drawing of the first portions of milk from each quarter would scarcely give
fair samples, since the strippings are always richer. We have also obtained,
as the result of the strippings from all the quarters, milk with a specific
gravity of 1025.1. When, therefore, a great deal is made of very high
specific gravities, we can only say, from a milk consumer's point of view, that
the results must be accepted with due caution.
" We rely more for practical purposes on careful weighings of the solids
obtained directly from milk at the boiling point of water, and of the ash,
after carefully burning the same solids. The results are most satisfactory ;
and we have examined samples from several dairymen in Kensington, which
prove that the milk dealers are far from being the very black sheep they are
so commonly represented to be. Last month we had to record very poor
results, and we should have exposed one or two of the most shameful cases
of dilution had we the ojjportunity of repeated examinations. This month
we have been more fortunate in every respect, as the subjoined list indicates :
Total Solids
Najsie and Address. dried at SIS''
Fahr.
Ash.
Tunks and Tisdall, Newland Terrace, Kensington. . . ,
Clarke, Kensington Place, High Street
Watson, Russell Gardens, Addison Road, Kensington.
Lunn, Cliurcli-street, Kensington
Kniglit, High-street, Kensington
13.12
13.16
12.51
12.47
11.25
0.61
0.65
0.66
0.76
0.74
"These are fair samples. The first four are virtually alike, and undoubt-
edly rich. The last sample of milk is poor.
" A sample of milk direct from the cow, obtained from the Victoria Dairy,
gave:
Total solids. Ash.
13.60 0.75
" This is very rich, and ' strippings ' above referred to, with sp. gr. of
1025.1, yielded
Solids. Ash.
18.74 0.63
" No comment is needed when these results are compared with many
published analyses.
SPONTAlsrEGUS CHANGES IN MILK.
" The remarkable diminution which the specific gravity of milk undergoes
on keeping, noticed in last month's Journal, induced us to study the changes
occurring in milk from the moment it is drawn. As it comes from the cow it
is at the temperature of the body, viz., about 100® Fahr., and in the most
perfect state of emulsion. There are some material difierences in the chemi-
cal composition and physical characters of different portions drawn in succes-
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 163
sive quantities into separate vessels in the "one act of milking. Thus a sample
—the first eight ounces of milk drawn direct into a bottle gave :
lu 100 parts 17.33 solids. 0.70 ash.
The specific gravity taken the same day at 60* was 1020.4. The specific
gravity taken two days later at 60° Fahr. was 1030.2.
"An average sample of the same cow's milk taken the next day, with due
care that the Avhole secreted by the one quarter of the udder was drawn ofi"
and well mixed, yielded :
In 100 parts 13.60 solids 0.75 ash.
The specific gravity at 60° Fahr., was 1031.3.
" Lastly, the ' strippings,' after drawing the sample which gave the last
result, and having well milked the cow, showed :
In 100 parts 18.74 solids 0.62 ash.
The specific gravity at 60° Fahr. was 1024.6.
" From the whole course of our experiments, it appears that the first
change which milk experiences is a contraction. Specific gravity 1020 becomes
specific gravity 1030. The next change is expansion— and this occupies some
days— which is manifested by the specific gravity sometimes falling below
1000. We reserve further details for a future number. We have said enough
to caution people against trusting to the lactometer in determining the
nutritive value of milk."
ABSORPTIVE PROPERTIES OF MILK.
The following note on the remarkable properties of milk in absorbing
and retaining exhalations such as those of tar, carbolic acid, and other ill-
smelling substances, is from the pen of Mr. Lawson Tait, F.R.C.S., of Bir-
mingham. He writes : " In the month of April last I was engaged with my
friend Mr. M. E. Naylor, veterinary surgeon, in examining the conditions
attending the spread of the foot and mouth disease in the West Riding; and,
amongst other stations of sufiering, we visited the farm attached to the West
Riding Lunatic Asylum, under the superintendence of my distinguished
friend Dr. Crichton- Browne. I had a long conversation with the intelli-
gent farm bailifi; Mr. Turner ; and, amongst other experiences I tasted the
diseased milk. I found that this had a peculiarly disagreeable, smoky taste,
and at first I rashly set this down as due to the disease of the cows. I found,
however, that this smoky taint was by no means confined to the milk yielded
by the afiected animals ; and Dr. Browne told me that he had sometimes
occasion to send away milk and cream from his table, which was unfit to use
an account of this smoky taste. A little examination further showed us that
this flavoring was due to the recent asphalting which had been done in and
near the milk-house. It at once flashed across my mind that, if milk acquired
this tarry flavor from absorption of the exhalations of asphaltum, it was just
164 Fk-ACtical Dairy Husbandry.
possible it might also acquire other things which were not so innocuous ; and
I at once set going a series of experiments which have led me to the belief
that milk is an extremely dangerous agent for the spread of contagion. I
need not say that I did not try any experiments, as they were all personal,
with contagious matter ; but by inclosing fresh milk under bell-jars with tar,
turpentine, assafoetida, faeces, urine, &c., I found that in most instances the
milk became impregnated with the smell, and sometimes with that intensely
disagreeable sensation which we know as the ' taste like the smell ' of the
substances employed. The degree to which this was acquired seemed not so
much to be in proportion to the amount employed either of milk or of infec-
tant substance, but to the amount and quality of the cream which rose to the
surface of the milk ; the oleaginous molecules seeming to act as the menstruum
of contagion. This is not unlikely, when we remember that the best solvent
for nearly all odoriferous principles is oil. Clinically, this question will be
m.ost diificult and dangerous to work out. For one, I shall not attempt it.
But, if we bethink ourselves of any instances of diseases which might in
certain instances be communicated by milk, typhoid fever stands out with
fearful probability." These observations are of obvious importance to the
farmer, not only as indicating the infections of which he must beware, but
the high-smelling sulphurous, chlorinated, carbolic, or tarry disinfectants —
such as sulphurous acid, chlorine, chloride of zinc (Burnett's fluid), carbolic
acid, and McDougall's powders, against which he must be equally on his
guard, however much they may be pressed on his attention by interested or
imperfectly-informed persons.
COLOE OF MILK.
Milk of average good quality contains about eighty-seven per cent, of
water. It is for the most part an emulsion of fatty particles, in a solution
of caseine and milk sugar. Thus the proportion may be stated to be very
nearly, in one hundred parts, as follows :
Water, 87.40
Butter, 3.43
Caseine, 3.13
Milk Sugar, 5.13
Mineral matter, 93
100
Milk varies in its composition in different cows, at different seasons, or
when fed upon different kinds of food, — the greatest variation in either of
its solid constituents being in the butter. The fatty particles are inclosed in
little cells of caseine. In other words the butter is encased in curds. These
milk globules are generally round or egg-shaped. They are of different sizes
in different animals ; and even in animals of the same kind they vary from
the l-2000th to the l-4000thpart of an inch. Viewed under the microscope
milk appears as a transparent fluid, in which float these innumerable small
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 165
round or egg-shaped globules — the so-called milk globules. The fluid consti-
tutes the bulk, and the milk globules but a small fraction of the milk. The
white apj)earance of the milk is due to the milk globules suspended in it. As
these globules are separated in the shape of cream, the milk becomes clearer
and acquires a peculiar bluish tint which at once indicates its character, "As
blue as skimmed milk" is an old adage — a familiar expression, if not a
familiar fact to most jDcople, whether they be dairymen or otherwise. Com-
pletely sef)arated from the milk globules, the fluid is a perfect solution of
curd or caseine, albumen, milk sugar, and mineral matters.
These butter bags or cells, being lighter than milk, rise on standing, and
are removed as cream. The less transparent the milk is, the better, and the
more butter it contains. If it were possible to separate the cream completely
by standing, the skimmed milk would be almost colorless ; but as a certain
number of milk globules always remain suspended in milk, even after long
standing, skimmed milk is always more or less opaque. In the ordinary
process of setting milk and skimming, the fatty matter is not wholly removed ,
with the cream which rises ; for if the skimmed milk be made into cheese,
the cheese on analysis will be found to contain butter, though the quantity
may be small. But that the butter is not all removed from the skimmed
milk, will perhaps be as satisfactorily indicated to the dairyman, by observing
the thin coating of cream which rises upon the whey obtained from the man-
ufacture of " skim cheese." Skimmed milk and buttermilk, having a whitish
appeai'ance, still contain minute milk globules, with shells of caseine, or
caseine in solution, which color the fluid.
TINT PROM THE FOOD COWS PEED 027.
It may be observed that the food Avhich cows ffeed upon sometimes
imparts its peculiar tint. It is a well known fact that food containing
substances of a medicinal character which pass rapidly into the milk, imparts
to it medicinal properties, similar to those in the substances themselves.
Thus, if castor oil be given to a milch cow in considerable quantities, the
purgative effects of the oil pass into the milk. The i^eculiar flavor of turnips,
cabbage, or onions, used as food, passing to the milk, is of so common an
occurrence to those in habit of handling milch stock, that it will be readily
recognized as a fact. In like manner, the tint of some kinds of weeds
passes into the milk and colors it. Most authors state that cow's milk is
either neutral or slightly alkaline, and that the milk of carnivorous animals
has always an acid reaction. The samples of milk taken from different
animals of my own herd, when tested with blue litmus paper, have invariably
shown an acid reaction. When milk is allowed to turn acid by keeping for
some days, or when any acid or rennet is added to new milk, the curd of
milk, contaminated with more or less butter, separates in the form of a Avhite,
flocky, voluminous substance, having a slightly acid reaction. When dried it
shrinks greatly in bulk and becomes semi-transparent and honi-like. In this
166 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
condition it is scarcely soluble in water, but dissolves with readiness in a
weak solution of caustic potash and soda ; and is again precipitated from its
alkaline solution, by acetic or mineral acids, and restored to its former gelati-
nous condition.
CASEINE
exists in milk in a state of solution, and is distinguished from albumen, which
it resembles closely in composition and general physical properties, by not
coagulating on boiling, and by being precipitated by rennet. On boDing a
solution of caseine it absorbs oxygen, and in consequence a pellicle which is
insoluble in water is gradually formed upon the surface. A similar pellicle is
formed when skimmed milk is boiled. New milk gradually heated to near
the boiling point of water, throws up cream, while at the same time, a skin
of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface. Thus in the noted " clotted
cream " of Devonshire we find more curd than in cream collected in the
ordinary manner. When I was in Devonsire, I was particularly interested
■ in knowing how this highly esteemed English delicacy was made, and I shall
describe the process, as I frequently saw it in opei'ation among the Devon-
shire dairies.
DEVONSHIRE CKEAM.
The dairy house is of stone, usually in connection with the dwelling ;
stone floors and stone benches for the milk to set upon, and all well ventila-
ted, and scrupously neat and clean. The milk is strained in large, deep pans,
and put in the dairy house, where it stands eight to ten hours, when the pans
are taken out and the milk scalded, by placing the pans holding it in an iron
skillet filled with water and set upon the range. At the bottom of the skillet
there is a grate on -which the pan of milk rests, so as to keep it from the
bottom and from burning. The milk is slowly heated to near the boiling
point, or until the cream begins to show a distinctly marked circle or crinkle
around the outer edges When the first bubble rises on the surface of the
cream, it must be immediately removed from the fire. Some experience is
necessary in applying the heat, to have it just right, otherwise the cream is
spoiled. When properly scalded, the milk is removed to the dairy, where it
stands from twelve to twenty-four hours, according to the condition of the
weather, when the cream is removed and is in a thick compact mass, an inch
or more thick, and quite diflferent from our ordinary cream. It is then divided
with a knife into squares of convenient size, and removed with a skimmer.
It is more solid than cream obtained in the usual way, and has a peculiarly
sweet and pleasant taste. It is considei-ed a great delicacy, and is largely
used in England, with sugar, upon pastry, puddings, or fresh fruits, and
especially upon the famous gooseberry pie. It makes an extensive article of
commerce, and is really a delicious article of food. I do not know as this
cream has ever been manufactured in this country, but it certainly deserves
to be introduced, and perhaps would prove profitable.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 167
solubility of caseine.
The solubility of caseine iu milk, says Voelcker, is generally ascribed to
the presence of a certain small proportion of free alkali. But though it is
quite true that alkalies are excellent solvents for caseine, and milk is fre-
quenily slightly alkaline, it may be questioned whether the solubility of
caseine is due to the presence of free alkali ; for even in milk which is
slightly acid, and therefore does not contain any free alkali, all the curd
occurs in a soluble form ; nor does the addition to new milk of diluted
acid iu quantities which, though small, are sufficient to render it decidedly
sour, cause the separation of caseine. This takes place only after a large
qantity of lactic acid has been formed spontaneously, or an excess of free
acid has been put into the milk. And he remarks further, that the action of
rennet on the soluble form in which caseine occurs in milk is peculiar, and as
yet unexplained. It was supposed for a long time that
EENNET COAGULATED MILK
by converting the sugar of milk into lactic acid, and that the lactic acid, by
neutralizing the free alkali, was in reality the agent in effecting the separation
of the curd in a coagulated condition. But this view is no longer tenable ; for
rennet at once coagulates new milk without turning it acid in the slightest
degree. He affirms that he has even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet
separated the curd by rennet, and obtained a whey which had an alkaline
reaction. In my interviews with Professor Voelcker in London, during the
summer of 1866, he said to me that the chemists were as yet quite unable to
explain the coagulating principle of rennet, or even to give it a name. Since
that time, by the aid of the microscope, the coagulation of milk has been
explained, and if the theory is correct it opens up a very interesting field of
investigation. I shall presently refer to these microscopic investigations, and
give the views now entertained by scientific men on this question. When
curd is exposed to air in a moist condition, it undergoes partial decomposi-
tion and becomes a ferment, which rapidly decomposes a portion of the
neutral fats of butter, separating from them butyric and other volatile fatty
acids which impart the bad flavor to rancid butter. Caseine ferment also
rapidly converts milk sugar into lactic acid. Pure caseine of milk has almost
precisely the same composition as vegetable caseine or legumen, and possesses
the same physical and chemical qualities.
albumen.
When rennet is added to milk it separates into curd and whey, and if
properly conducted a perfectly clear whey is obtained. On heating the clear
and filtered whey nearly to the boiling point of water, a flaky curd-like sub-
stance separates itself. This substance is considered to be albumen. It
exhibits all the distinguishing properties of white of egg or albumen, but has
not yet been subjected to ultimate analysis. The albuminous matter which
is not separated by rennet, but coagulates on boiling the whey from which
168 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the curd has been previously removed, amounts in cows' milk to from one-half to
three-quarters per cent., or about one-quarter to one-fifth part of the caseine.
It is somewhat remarkable, says Dr. Voelcker, that this albuminous matter
does not coagulate when new milk is simply raised to the boiling point of water.
In this case a pellicle of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface, but no
albumen separates, and it thus appears that the curd of milk has first to be
removed by rennet before the albuminous matter can be obtained in a coagu-
lated form. Whether some practical method will yet be invented for arrest-
ino- this highly nutritious constituent of milk and incorporating it in the
cheese remains to be seen ; but up to this time none of the ordinary methods
of cheese-making have sufficed.
DENSITY OF CREAM.
I have said that the milk globules are small, roimd, or egg-shaped bodies,
which inclose in a thin shell of caseine a mixture of several fatty matters.
They are somewhat lighter than milk and consequently they rise on the sur-
face when milk is set aside and remains at rest. Cream is slightly denser
than pure water, and will therefore sink in distilled water. By churning
the cream, the caseine shells are broken, and the contents of the milk globules
made into butter.
MILK SUGAR
is contained in the clear whey from which curd and albumen have been
separated, and is prepared by evaporating in shallow vessels until crystals
begin to separate. The sugar of milk is less sweet than grape or cane sugar.
It requires five to six parts of cold water for solution ; dissolves readily
in boiling water, and crystalizes again on cooling, in white, semi-transparent,
hard, small crystals, which feel gritty between the teeth. In a pure state it
may be kept, unadulterated, for any length of time, but if left in contact with
caseine and air it gradually becomes changed into lactic acid or into fruit
sugar, which in its turn enters into alcoholic fermentation, producing carbonic
acid and alcohol. Most of the milk sugar of the shops is now manufactured
in Switzerland. It forms an article of commerce, being used largely in the
preparation of medicines. It is usually sold at the shops at from six to eight
shillings per pound, and it has been suggested that it could be profitably
manufactured here, and employed for various purposes, were its cost cheap-
ened. A firm in Chicago have recently advertised for the whey of the
Western cheese factories, and propose to enter upon milk sugar manufacture.
MINERAL MATTERS.
The mineral matters of milk consist mainly of phosphate of lime and
magnesia, and the chlorides of potassium and sodium, besides a small quantity
of phosphate of iron, and some free soda. A thousand pounds of milk,
according to the analysis of Haidlen, woxild contain from five to nearly seven
pounds of mineral matters. The relative proportions of the several sub-
stances are given by Haidlen as follows :
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
169
Phosphate of lime
" of magnesia
" of peroxide of iron
Chloride of potassium
" of sodium
Free soda
2.31
.43
.07
. 1.44
.24
.42
4.90
3.44
.64
.07
1.83
.34
.45
6.77
I have now given a very full account of the diiferent constituents of milk
as described by the chemists, and found by chemical analysis ; and it is
important that those who manufacture milk into dairy products, have some'
general idea of the component parts of the material with which they have
to do. *
QUALITY OF MILK HOW AFFECTED.
The quality of cow's milk is affected by the age of the animal, as well as by
the distance from the time of calving. Now, as to the milk of aged cows, the
general impression in this country among dairymen is, that the milk of old
cows is quite as good or even better than that of young cows. Hence the almost
imiversal practice of our dairymen is to retain good milkers on the farm, and if
no accident occurs, on account of which their milk fails, they are kept in the
dairy until quite worn out with age and are then turned off— but little better
than mere skeletons of hides and bones — at from six to ten dollars per head.
In England I found a very different practice prevailing. When milch cows
have attained an age of from six to eight years' they are put in condition for
the shambles and sold, A good profit is thus realized on the animals for
meat, irrespective of what may have been made in the dairy. They hold that
the milk of old cows is of inferior quality to that of young cows, and chemical
' analysis, it seems confirms this opinion. Again, as old cows consume more food
than young cows, and are therefore more expensive to feed, nothing appears
so unprofitable as to keep cows until they grow old. Voelckeb affirms that
generally speaking, after the fourth or fifth calf the milk becomes poorer.
This is a very important question in the economy of dairy practice, and it is
one which I hope will be thoroughly investigated at our agricultural colleges.
Milch cows sell at from seventy to eighty dollars. If turned for beef at seven
to eight years' old, there will be little or no loss, but if kept four years
longer and sold for ten dollars, the loss on first cost of the animal is some
sixty dollars, or fifteen dollars per year.
influence op food iisr changing the relative constituents of milk.
There is another interesting question which I hoj^e to see investigated at
our agricultural colleges, and that is, whether the food upon which the cow
is kept, has much, or little, or no inufluence in changing the quality of milk,
170 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry.
or the relative proportions of its various constituents. Dr. Kuhn, a German
chemist, in a recent communication to a meeting of agricultural chemists at
Halle, Germany, answers this question in the negative. His opinion is based
upon an experiment with eleven milch cows, and he believes the result to be
correct, as the experiment was made with great care. He says : — " Green
clover was fed with or without the addition of cut straw, so that the propor-
tion of nitrogenous elements to the non-nitrogenous elements of the food
varied from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 3.5 ; nevertheless the relative proportions of the
several constituents of the dry substance of the milk, as fat, caseine, albu-
men, and sugar, remained constant throughout.
The relative proportions of the several dry constituents of the milk
appear, therefore, he says, to depend, not on quality of the food, but on
special characteristics in the constitution of the animals themselves. Dr.
KuHN says he has con&'med this result by experiments with a more varied
mixture of food, since he has fed hay alone, then hay with starch, with oil,
with beans, with bran, so that in one instance the proportion of the nitro-
genous to the non-nitrogenous was as 1 to 8.1. It is not possible, he says, by
any choice of food to modify the character of the milk so as to make it richer,
for example, in fat or any other organic ingredient ; this can only be done
by a judicious selection of the breed of milch cattle. The proportion of
water however, to the ingredients of the milk may be affected by the char-
acter of the food ; so that the richness of the milk in any given constituent,
as for example, oil, may be increased ; but at the same time every other con-
stituent except water is increased in the same proportion.
The following paper communicated during the past year (1871), to the
New York Tribune, by a student of Scientific Agriculture, at one of the
German Universities, will explain more in detail the theory referred to :
I"N"FLUENCE OF FODDEE UPON MILK PRODUCTION.
Some accounts of experiments on the best methods of feeding cattle, made
at the Agricultural Experiment Station in Moeckern, Saxony, have already
appeared in an article entitled " Best Food for Milch Cows." An account of
another experiment, the object of which was to determine the effect of differ-
ent kinds and quantities of food upon the milk production, will be interesting,
from its practical as well as scientific bearings.
The question to be solved is this : WJiat effect does the quality — the com-
position — of the fodder, have tipon the quality — the composition — of the
tnilJc? If I have a dairy and make butter, it is worth while to know
whether, by increasing the amount of fatty matter in the food, I can get a milk
richer in butter, or whether in case I wish to make cheese, during the hot
summer months, I can increase the amount of albumen and caseine in the milk,
by adding albuminous material to the food. Here in Germany, when a ques-
tion of this kind arises, they have a simple way of settling it. They " try
and see." And the spirit in which this trying and seeing, this experimenting
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 171
is done, is the same spirit that has made Napoleon to-day a prisoner upon
German soil, and borne King William, with his victorious army to the gates
of Paris ; the spirit of System, of patient, systematic, thorough, intelligent
work. How Dr. Kuhn and his assistants carried on this experiment, and what
its plan and results were, we shall be better able to understand after a little
reviewing of some of the fundamental principles of physiological chemistry.
The chemistry of the present day informs us that there are two general
classes of substance which make up the great bulk of the organic matter of
the plant, and of the animal body, or of its products, as milk. The main
difference between them, as shown by chemical analysis, is that the one class
contains nitrogen, while the other does not. Hence they are styled nitro-
genous and non-nitrogenous substances. But the physiologist finds that they
have very different uses in the animal system ; that the non-nitrogenous or
carbo-hydrates, as they are also styled, contribute more to the formation of
fat, and make also fuel, whose combustion keeps up the animal heat — while
the nitrogenous build up the muscles, the lean meat, and, at the same time,
are believed to be especially efiicient as a source of strength, in the same way
that the carbo-hydrates generate heat by their consumption in the system.
Let us, then, fix thoroughly in our minds the names and chief offices of these
two classes of substances : 1. Nitrogenous, or albuminoids — flesh-forming,
strength-giving. 2. Non-nitrogenous or carbo-hydrates — fat-forming, sources
of animal heat. Meanwhile we will be content to know that in hay, in meal,
in meat, in milk, indeed in all that makes up the food and flesh of animals or
men, these two classes of substances constitute the most important part, and
that this distinction lies at the foundation of that application of science to
cattle-feeding, which is called, on this side of the Atlantic, "Rational
Foddering."
Fat meat, the fatty portions of milk, and the butter are non-nitrogenous,
but lean meat and skim-milk cheese are nitrogenous. So the question to be
decided by our experiment is. Will a ration, rich in carbo-hydrates, give a
milk rich in butter, or will a milk rich in albuminoide be produced from a
food of corresponding composition 9
In the stables of the Moeckern Station, are some stalls especially set apart
for cows under experiment. During the course of the experiment these cows
are fed and milked under the direct supervision of one of the chemists, Dr.
Haase, whose duty it happens to be to attend to the feeding and milking.
The cows are quietly eating their hay and oil cake, a cow-maid is milking one,
and the Doctor is looking on to see that no milk is spilled, and is ready to
take the milk and weigh it as soon as it is ready. The general plan of the
experiment is to feed the cows during one period of two or three weeks, with
a ration rich in albuminoids, the ration being made up of hay, which we con-
sider normal fodder, to which is added bean meal or rape cake, or some other
substance rich in nitrogen ; and then change the proportions, and for the next
period furnish a preponderance of carbo-hydrates, or hay, with oil, starch,
172 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
&c., and note the difference, if any, in the quantity and quality of the milk.
That would seem to be quite a simple matter, but in fact it is a very compli-
cated work. To feed a cow three weeks on the highly nitrogenous food, and
then suddenly change to a highly non-nitrogenous ration would be too great
a shock upon the internal system to allow the experiment to be reliable. And
further, natural change, that takes place in the composition and amount of
the milk, indej^endent of the fodder, makes the work still more comjDlicated.
To get over these difficulties we must start with a jDcriod of normal fodder-
ing on good meadow hay, then gradually change, through a transition period,
to the more or less nitrogenous feed, as the case may be, and continue this
latter course of feeding for a long while, so as to be sure that it has a fair
opportunity to work out its full effect ; then, in a second transition period,
pass gradually to normal fodder ; then on to the second sjDecial ration, which,
on the supposition that the former was over-rich in nitrogen, will have an
excess of carbo-hydrates. When this period has run on long enough there
comes another transition period, during which the carbo-hydrates will be
removed, until at length we come back to meadow hay again, and this normal
foddering is kept up through the last j^eriod. The actual rations in the differ-
rent periods of the experiment were :
Period I. Normal Fodder — Meadow Hay. Transition, in which a highly
nutritious material — bean-meal — was added in increasing quantities.
Period II. Nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with bean-meal or rape-
cakes. Transition, during which bean-meal was replaced by carbo-hydrates,
oil, or starch.
Period III. Non-nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with oil or starch.
Transition, during which the carbo-hydrates were withdrawn.
Period IV. Normal Fodder — Meadow hay.
" The amounts and compositions of the different rations are estimated by
accurate weighings and analysis. The yield of milk during the normal periods
at the beginning and end of the experiment gives us a means of estimating
the line of changes through which the quantity and quality of the milk would
run, the natural variation in amount and composition during the whole time
of the experiment — some three months and a-half — and the variations from
this line during the periods of special foddering, give us the influence of the
foddering upon the milk, the results aimed at in the experiment. And what
seems to be the probable result of these experiments ? Thus far, it appears
that no change in the quality of the food is capable of materially affecting
the quality of the milk, at least so long as the ration is of such quality as to
be healthy, and is given in sufficient quantity."
Meanwhile one of the cowmaids has finished milking, and brings the pail
to the Doctor. He weighs it carefully on a scale standing close by and notes
the weight. "You will notice," he says, " that the cows are numbered one,
two, three, four. For each one there is a separate set of measures for the
fodder, and a separate milk pail. This is No. 3. The exact weight of pail is
Practical Datry Husbandry.
173
known, and that, subtracted from the whole weight of j^ail and milk togetlier
gives the weight of the milk. As you see, I have the milk weighed from cow
three. A portion intended for analysis is poured into a dish marked three,
the date is also noted, and it is taken into the laboratory with similar portions
from one and two and analyzed. The composition of the food given is also
known from analysis, the quantities fed are regularly and carefully weighed
out, and detailed accounts of the food given and milk obtained are kept, so
that when the experiment is finished we have all the data from which to draw
our conclusions."
Omitting further details we pass at once to the result. First, as to the
natural changes that the milk undergoes during the milking period, that is to say,
as the time from calving increases. The average amount of milk given was :
First period, 18.1 lbs., with normal fodder, meadow hay ; last period, 14.6 lbs.,
with normal fodder, meadow hay. Falling ofi" in three months, 3.5 lbs. Other-
wise than in this falling oiF about a pound per month in the yield, there was
no especial change, save a very slight increase in the richness of the milk.
Indeed, it appears from these and other investigations, that there is generally
a very slight change in the composition of milk during the milking jDcriod —
that it becomes somewhat richer, and that there is a slight increase in the
relative amount of albuminoids, and decrease in that of fat and sugar. How-
ever, during the first three or four months at least, this change is too trifling
to be of any practical consequence. Now as to the main result of the exper-
iment, the influence of the nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous rations. The
changes in the composition of the milk during the middle periods were so
extremely small as to be of no real importance. In fact, the variation
observed from day to day, and the difierences in the milk from the different
cows were greater than those found in the milk given in the different periods.
To show how extremely small these differences were, and at the same time to
give an illustration of the chemical composition of milk, I append the follow-
ing figures, the first column showing the average composition, with the
normal fodder of meadow hay, and the second with the addition of bran meal
or rape cakes to the hay, the third with hay and oil or starch. In one thou-
sand parts obtained from these articles were contained :
NOBMAL
Ration.
Nitrogen-
ous Ration.
NON-NITBO-
GENOUS
Ration.
Water
878
41
44
28
7
880
40
44
39
7
883
Butter
39
Milk Sugar
43
Albuminoids
29
Mineral Matters
7
In short, the differences are so minute as to be of no practical account
whatever, and it appears that the variations in tlie quality of the ration were
without effect upon the composition of the milk. Now, let us make sure that
174 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
we understand this thoroughly. We have been talking of " quality " and
" composition " of milk and fodder. By this we mean the relative amounts
of the different ingredients of the milk, water, sugar, fat, albumen, caseine,
&c. The more organic substance, sugar, fat, and albuminoids in the milk, the
richer ; the more water, the poorer it is. When we say that the milk grows
gradually richer with the increase of time from calving, we mean that there
is more organic substance and less water in a quart when the cow has been
milked six months than when she has been milked only one month. The
quantity, the whole " mess " yielded each day, will be larger at the end of one
month than at the end of six months, and on that account the amount of the
organic substance in the whole " mess " will be greater in the former case,
while the amount in one quaint will be greater in the latter. And when we
say that variations in the quantity of the fodder are without effect upon the
quality of the milk, we mean that the relative amounts of fat, sugar and albu-
minoids in the organic substance of the milk are unaltered thereby. Suppose
now I feed a ration, say twenty-five pounds of second quality hay, from which
my cows yield an average of twenty pounds of milk a day, containing two
and a-half pounds of organic matter, of which forty per cent., or one pound,
is butter. I increase this ration, or make it richer by the addition of turnips,
oil-cake, &c., and obtain a yield of twenty-four pounds of milk, or one-fifth
more. I have then a corresponding increase of one-fifth in the organic
matter and the butter, and three pounds of the former and one and one-fifth
of the latter.
There is just one more point to be explained. The experiments show that
the composition of the oi-ganic substance remains unaltered by changes in
the fodder ; but how is it with the relation of water and organic substances
— the richness in the milk ? Will not green fodder, or pasture-feeding, give
a more watery milk, and consequently a larger yield ? I am not aware that
this especial subject has been tested with sufiicient thoroughness to decide the
question. It has long been the opinion of practical men that a dry fodder
would make a richer milk than green fodder. The later German experiments
seem rather to oppose this idea, or at least to show that their effect is much
less important than has generally been believed.
But so much is certain : When I have once found a ration upon which my
cows will thrive, each one of them will give a certain amount of milk, the
organic matter of Avhich will have a certain composition. By varying the
ration I can vary the total yield of milk and of organic substance — that is to
say, of butter and cheese produced, and may possibly bring about a slight
change in the relative amounts of organic substance and water ; but the
amount of organic substance in a quart of milk will vary but slightly, if at all,
and the quality and the amount of butter in an ounce of organic substance
will be practically unaltered.
Had but one experiment of this sort been made, the use of its conclusions
for establishing rules for practice would be open to objection. But the better
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 175
scientists of the present day have learned the fallacy of building conclusions
on such narrow foundations, and taking warning of the fall of earlier and
poorly supported theories, are loth to proclaim a theory to the world until it
has a reasonable basis of experiment.
Dr. KuHN has carried out quite a number of investigations similar to the
one above described, and several other well known investigators have been
for some time past at work upon the same subject. One of these latter, Pro-
fessor Wolff, Director of the Experiment Station at Hohenheim, in Wurt-
emberg, gives the result of a long series of investigations in the following
language :
" One interesting result of these experiments is, that the quality of the
milk — the amount of butter it contains — leaving the taste out of account, has
always remained the same, in spite of manifold and important changes in the
quality of the fodder. In fact, the changes in the amount of butter in the
milk, as determined by chemical analysis, are so unimportant as to be entirely
unworthy of consideration. As the practical result of this, we are left to
infer that the quality of the food exercises no influence upon the quality — the
content — of butter in the milk, while, on the other hand, the effect of fodder
becomes readily and distinctly manifest in the quantity of the milk yielded,
and in the increase or decrease of the live weight of the animals. The
quality of the milk seems, therefore, to be determined by the peculiarities of
the breed or the individual animal, at least as long as the fodder is healthy,
palatable and sufficient in quantity."
Dr. KuHN gives the result of his own experiments, in so far as they are
directly applicable to practice, in similar language :
" The influence of variations in the fodder in these experiments was mani-
fested in the amount of milk yielded alone, and not in the quality. The
influence upon the quantity is, however, quite apparent. As regards the desire
of the farmer to increase the production of a certain element of the milk, as,
for instance, butter, by a change in the quality of the fodder, the above law
is fully valid. The farmer must, on the other hand, look to the peculiarities
of different breeds of cattle for that quality of milk which is best adapted to
his own special purpose. If he would increase the quantity of milk yielded he
must select such individuals as give a good yield."
Foddering, then, if rightly managed, may increase the quantity of the
milk, but will not alter its quality. Must, then, the milkman who sells his
milk in the city, and the country dairyman who makes butter and cheese, be
content with the same quality of milk ? — or is there some other means by
which each may obtain a milk adapted to his special purposes ? Dr. Kuhn"
suggests the answer to this question at the close of the paragraph just quoted.
The subject is an important one ; let us pursue it a little further. Every man
who will realize the largest profits from his cows must see to it, Jirst^ that he
has good inilkers • second^ that he feeds them well. If he desires a large
yield of butter, he must select breeds and individuals whose milk is rich in
176
Pbactical Dairy Husbanvby.
butter. If he sells his milk in the town, and does not care so much for the
quality, as long as the quantity is large, he will do best with other breeds and
other individuals. At least so say the best German authorities, and they
have experimented enough upon the subject to entitle their opinions to
confidence.
What is believed here in Germany concerning the best method of fodder-
ing, and how science and practice have contributed to the grounding of
German theories on " rational foddering," will perhaps form the subject of
another article. It will be more appropriate here to notice something of
what statistics, experiments and practical experience say as to the milk and
butter-producing qualities of difierent breeds.
la Saxony and Prussia, where a great deal of attention has been given to
this matter, the Hollander, the Holsteiner and Oldenbui-ger breeds, from the
lowlands of North-western Europe, the Allgauer, from the mountainous
regions of Southern Bavaria, and the English breeds — the Ayrshire, Suffolk,
Cheshire, Yorkshire, &c.— rare the most popular as milkers ; while the Short-
Horns, &c., are preferred for fattening.
The statistics of a large number of farms in the Kingdom of Saxony, for
the year 1853, show that the average yield per cow in the year 1853 was :
Qts. of
SULK.
Lbs. op
BUTTER.
Lbs. of
butter in
100 LBS. OF
MILK.
Allgauer
2,664
3,859
3,110
369
253
190
10.1
Hollaiidt;!'
8.8
8.5
Whence it appears that the Hollanders are the largest milkers, but that
the Allgauers give a milk much richer in butter ; one hundred pounds of milk
from the former making 10.1 pounds of butter, of the latter only 8.8 pounds.
A very natural conclusion from this would be for the butter-makers to select
Allgauers, and the milkman who sells his milk in town to fill his stables with
Hollanders. And, indeed, among the milkmen in this region, Hollanders are
the most popular breed.
As to the qualities of the English races as butter producers there seems to
be a lack of accurate statistics. The best sources represent the average
butter production in England at one hundred to two hundred pounds per cow,
yearly ; and in the lowlands across the Channel — Holland and Holstein — at
considerably less, or some one hundred and twelve pounds, which would make
the English cows better butter-producers than the Hollanders. Yon Weck-
EKLEiisr, a note^d German cattle-breeder, who has made this subject a matter
of a great deal of observation and experiment, puts the English breeds, the
Yorkshire and Suffolk, a little below, and the Devons and Herefords some-
what above the Allgauers, but finds them all superior to the Hollanders in
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 177
richness of milk. The Short-Horns have likewise the reputation of giving
better quality but smaller quantity of milk than the Hollanders.
In general in Germany, where English, French, and German breeds of
cattle have been tried quite thoroughly, the Short-Horns are, as far as my own
observation goes, looked upon as most excellent for fattening ; the Allgauers,
Devons, and Herefords are much liked for butter and cheese-making, while
the Hollanders are special favorites among milkmen.
It seems to me that these two breeds, the Allgauers and Hollanders,
deserve rather more attention among our cattle-raisers in America than they
have as yet received. We are quite well acquainted with English breeds, but
the German are almost unknown to us. And yet the most intelligent
German farmers, who can import Devons and Durhams as well as Hollanders
and Allgauers, and who have tried all these races faithfully, give the decided
preference to the Allgauers and Hollanders as milkers, and consider the
Short-Horns superior only in fattening qualities.
The Allgauers are small or medium-sized, jBne-boned, thick-set, and very
finely built. The large amount of milk yielded by this breed, its richness,
and at the same time their small consumption of food, make them most
desirable cows for the dairy. Some herds average between two thousand five
hundred and two thousand six hundred quarts per head yearly. For regions
where fodder is uncertain, and not over good quality, the Allgauers can be
very highly recommended. The Hollanders, on the other hand, are lai'ge and
stout built — the cows often weigh sixteen hundred and fifty or even seven-
teen hundred pounds, and are remarkable for their very large milk production,
amounting in some cases to nearly four thousand five hundred quarts per
year, though not very rich in butter. They require, however, rather high
feeding, but, on the other hand, are very easily fattened. On these accounts
the Hollanders are specially adapted to the neighborhoods of large towns
where brewery, and distillery refuse and commercial food, as oil-cakes, are
cheap, and the fresh milk finds ready sale."
Now this difiers from the opinion expressed by Prof Voelckee, who
says that : " Milk may be regarded as a material for the manufacture of
butter and cheese, and according to the purpose for which the milk is
intended to be employed, whether for the manufacture of butter, or the
production of cheese, the cows should be difierently fed." And he remarks
further, that " Butter contains carbon, hydrogen or oxygen, and no nitrogen.
Cheese on the contrary, is rich in nitrogen. Food which contains much fatty
matter, or substances which in the animal system are readily converted into
fat, will tend to increase the proportion of cream in milk. On the other hand
the proportion of caseine or cheesy matter in milk is increased by the use of
highly nitrogenized food. Those therefore who desire much cream, or who
produce food for the manufacture of butter, select food likely to increase the
proportion of butter in the milk. On the contrary, when the principal object
is the production of milk rich in curd — that is, when cheese is the object of
12
178 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the farmer, clover, peas, and bean meal, and other plants which abound in
Legumin — a nitrogenized organic compound, almost identical in properties
of composition with caseine, or the substance which forms the curd of milk
— will be selected. As a matter of pure theory, the latter position seems to
be the more reasonable. And in practice it has been observed by our dairy-
men, that when pastures have a good proportion of the finer clovers,
especially the white clover, the cows feeding upon them yield abundant returns
in cheese. So also in spring feeding, when bran and pea and oat meal are
used in connection with hay, a much larger percentage of cheese is produced
than when fed upon Indian meal. But carefully conducted experiments, with
accurate analyses of the milk, would add much to our stock of knowledge on
this vexed question of animal foods. Indeed, Voelckee remarks in some
of his more recent investigations, that we cannot increase or improve, ad
infinitum^ the quantity or quality of milk. Cows which have a tendency to
fatten when supplied with food rich in oil and in flesh-forming materials, like
linseed cake, have the power of converting that food into fat, but they do not
produce a richer milk, and they may even produce it in smaller quantity. It
is this which renders all investigations on the influence of food upon the
quantity and quality of milk so extremely difiicult. According to theory,
it would appear that food rich in oily or fatty matter would be extremely
useful in rich milk, but in practice we sometimes find that it produces fat
and flesh instead. Sometimes its influence is even injurious, for cows supplied
too abundantly with linseed cake produce milk which does not make good
butter ; and he refers to an instance of this kind where the milk of cows so
fed furnished cream that could not be made into butter, and when put into
the churn it beat up into froth, nor by any manipulation would the caseine
separate from the butter. Yoelcker says, on examining this milk, and
trying to separate as much as possible, the solid or crystalized fat from the
liquid fat, I found that the latter was very much in excess of the former.
CLIMATE
has a most marked efiect on the quality of milk. In moist, cool seasons,
though a larger quantity of milk is produced, it is poorer, the amount of
solid matter being less than in dry, warm seasons. This peculiarity has often
led to serious errors in estimating the probable yield of dairy products in New
York. In cool, moist seasons when pastures are abundant and cows are
yielding a comparatively large flow of milk, a largely increased product of
cheese is predicted, but at the close of the season, to the great surprise of
many, the quantity falls below that of dryer seasons. I have known the
annual product of cheese to fall off in Herkimer county, in such seasons,
very considerably. As to the causes of this variation, something no doubt
is due to the greater amount of water in the food present in wet seasons,
but how much is due to temperature and moisture of the atmosphere, or
Its efiect on the health and condition of the animal, we do not know. That
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 179
the general state of health and condition of the animal has an influence on
the quality of the milk need hardly be stated.
THE SIZE AND BREED
of the animal, as we have previously remarked, have an important influence
on the quality of milk, and generally speaking the small breeds are better for
butter, and the larger breeds for cheese.
THE FIKST MILK
after the cow has given birth to her young, contains an unusually large
quantity of caseine. Bossingault found on analyzing such milk, that it con-
tained, in one hundred parts, about four times as much caseine as in ordinary
milk, the constituents being as follows :
Water, 75 . 8
Butter (pure fat), 2.6
Caseine, 15.0
Milk sugar, ' 3.6
Mineral matter, 3.0
100.
This peculiarity disappears after eight or ten days, and the milk assumes
its ordinary condition.
THE STRIPPINGS.
What are the " strippings " ? Probably about one-half of the people in
cities, or a large share of those born and brought up in cities, if they were
to choose milk as drawn from the cow, would take that which is first milked.
I was looking over a somewhat noted dairy recently, while the hands were
milking. In this particular dairy it was customary to save the " strippings "
by themselves, keeping them separate for a special purpose. While one of
the milkers was drawing the strippings, a very intelligent gentleman who
was visiting the family, came out with a cup to get a drink of warm milk.
Following the milker to the dairy, where the milk was to be strained in pans,
our visitor was invited to hold his cup under the strainer of the " strippings."
" No," said he, " I do not care to take the dregs ; I want the richest milk,
and will take that which was drawn first, in the other pail."
When the milkmaid told him the " strippings," or last drawn milk, was
nearly all cream, and that it was set apart for making choice butter, he mani-
fested the greatest surprise, and said the thing was entirely new to him. A
great many people are no wiser. Now, cream being lighter than milk, the
denser or heavier portion of the milk is drawn first from the udder, while
the lighter parts, rich in butter, remain back, and make up what is known
among dairymen as " the strippings."
It will be seen, then, how important it is that the last drop of milk in the
udder should be drawn while milking, and that when particular attention is
not given to this point the loss is much more serious than a waste of the
180 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
same quantity of first drawn milk ; for the one is thin cream, while the other
is nothing more than plain milk. There is another loss, of course, in not milk-
ing clean, as it has a tendency to dry up the cow, or lessen the secretion of
milk from day to day. It is very difficult to impress milkers with the impor-
tance of drawing the " strippings " from the udder. Many milkers are in
the habit of finishing their work just as soon as the free flow of milk ceases.
Such milkers, it is needless to say, entail a heavy loss on the dairyman in the
course of the year, and if they milk many cows they waste more than their
wages. The " strippings " make a very nice quality of butter, and some
butter makers think it pays well to keep them separate from the first drawn
milk. It is a little more troxible to the milker to separate the " strippings,"
as it necessitates having a " stripping pail," but there is no doubt that it
educates milkers to milk clean, if of no other advantage.
THE MILK OF DISEASED COWS.
I am convinced from extensive observation that great ignorance or
thoughtlessness prevails among many in regard to the use of bad milk.
From numerous experiments during many years, in feeding the milk of
" ailing cows " to pigs and calves — the milk from those cows that happen to
be ill from time to time in my oAvn dairy — I long since became satisfied that
such, milk is a much more fruitful source of disease than is commonly
imagined. In dairies, whether the milk is to be delivered at the factory, or
made up on the farm into butter and cheese, or sent to the town or city for
consumption, what is the usual practice of the milk producer ? Is it not to
be feared that the milk of diseased cows — of cows whose feet or udders ai'e
afifected with sores or ulcers, and discharging corruption — is sent forward to
be used as human food in the majority of instances ? Many doubtless have a
faint notion that the milk of a sick cow, or one afflicted with sores or ulcers,
is not just the kind of milk to be used, and is not such as they would care to
use in their own families; still, as there would be a loss in throwing such milk
away, the conclusion is that it can do no injury to other people, and so long as
the consumer is ignorant of all the facts no harm is done. Others affirm, and
doubtless believe, that the milk of a sick cow when mingled with other milk
and made into butter and cheese, becomes in some way purified in the process
of manufacture, so that nothing unwholesome remains in the butter or cheese.
The difficulty of always tracing disease to its true source and of detecting
the poisons thrown off in the milk of diseased animals, may help to hide the
culpable practices of dairymen and milk producers, but the moral wrong
remains the same ; and I cannot but think that the nuisance would in part
become abated, if people were fully convinced they were sending out food
heavily freighted with the elements of disease and death. If the loss from
bad milk must be in some way mitigated, would it not be better to make the
saving by feeding it to pigs or calves upon the farm, since the health or life
of an animal is less valuable than that of human beings ?
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 181
Prof. Gamgee, in his address before the American Dairymen's Associa-
tion, in referring to the foot and mouth disease, then so prevalent in England,
says : — " The poison of this disease is found in the vesicles within the mouth,
and is discharged with the gallons of saliva secreted daily, under the irritation
produced by the eruption on the tongue, palate, cheek and lips. It is also
formed in vesicles on the teats, and finds its way into the milk, and thus it
kills young pigs, calves, and even children that get milk fresh or undiluted."
And he remarks further, that although he " has no facts to indicate whether
cheese and butter would retain the virus for any length of time, yet in all
probability they would ; and a trustworthy observer assured him some
years since, that a pudding made with milk from a sick cow, though boiled,
produced the disease in a family of five grown persons." The unwholesome-
ness of milk from city dairies, Avhere the cows are kept in underground
stables and fed largely on distillers' slops and refuse garbage, has been proved
over and over again, from the investigations of scientific men. Country
milk has been generally supposed to be perfectly Avholesome and harmless,
but if all the facts concerning its production were known, I fear it would
often be found very objectionable as an article of food.
INJURY TO MILK FEOJI COWS I^THALING BAD ODORS.
The injury to milk from cows inhaling bad odors is not well understood,
or at least has not elicited much attention from those who have had the care
of milk stock, and made dairying a specialty. It is only of late years and
since the inauguration of the factory system, that American dairymen have
had their attention called to the various causes influencing the quality of
milk. We have now a class of men following a distinct and special calling
— men whose time and thoughts are almost wholly given to the manipulation
of milk in butter and cheese manufacture.
The competition between different factories and the discrimination made
by dealers in dairy products, have stimulated these workers in milk to make
close observation and inquiry concerning the condition of milk; and their
investigations have brought to light many things that are new respecting the
material upon which they are employed. From the investigations of these
men, old theories, long promulgated as truths, have been exploded and shown
to be false. As we become better informed as to the nature of milk, and the
causes influencing its quality, our dairy products improve, and any one who
has watched the progress made in this department during the last half-dozen
years, cannot but come to the conclusion that American dairy products are
destined to reach a standard of flavor and quality surpassing in excellence
anything that has hitherto been produced.
Among the new class of questions now claiming the attention of intelli-
gent cheese manufacturers, is the one we have named, viz. : the influence upon
milk resulting from cows breathing bad odors while at pasture. That milk
is often tainted in this way has long been suspected by observing cheese
182 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
manufacturers, though it was difficult to trace out the cause and establish the
principle. A few years ago Mr. Foster of Oneida Co., N. Y., brought this
question prominently before the American Dairymen's Association and gave
undoubted evidence that bad milk could come from such a source. He was
having considerable trouble with the milk at his factory, and finally traced it
to his own dairy, where the greatest care was taken in milking, in the clean-
liness of milk vessels, and everything pertaining to the dairy. This fact led
him to investigate the matter thoroughly, to examine the water and feed with
which the cows were supplied, together with the health and treatment of the
stock, in the hope of discovering the cause. Finding nothing at fault in these
particulars, and the trouble still continuing, the conclusion forced itself upon
him that the cause must come from the cows inhaling bad odors. In a field
adjoining one part of his pasture a neighbor had left exposed a dead horse,
which in its decomposition carried a bad odor over that part of the pasture.
Here the cows in feeding inhaled a sufficient quantity of the offending gases
to taint the milk, as he concluded ; for on calculating the time it was found
that the trouble with the milk dated at about the period the horse was left so
exposed. Arguing from these premises he had the putrifying carcass removed
and buried, when the trouble in the milk immediately disappeared.
Mr. L. B. Aenold, a very close observer and of much experience in
handling milk, gives a similar account of tainted milk caused by cows breath-
ing air polluted by carrion. In this case the trouble in the milk was traced
to one particvilar dairy, and a committee was appointed to visit the premises.
The committee found nothing at the stable, in the milking nor in the general
care of utensils, to cause tainted milk. But on examining the pastures they
did find the air polluted by carrion, upon the removal of which, as in the
other case, the taint in the milk at once disappeared. I could enumerate
other cases of similar character, and the evidence warrants the conclusion
that milk can be tainted in hot weather by cows inhaling a polluted atmos-
phere like that we have named. If the facts are worthy of credit, and the
conclusion is correctly drawn, it opens up a very important question for
dairymen, in the production of milk.
IS MILK IMPROVED BY EXPOSURE TO THE AIR WHILE COOLING?
One of the leading questions now being discussed by cheese manufacturers
is, the importance of cooling milk at the farm and as soon as drawn from the
cow, if it is to be carried to the factory. I was the first to bring the subject
to the attention of New York dairymen several years ago, and though I
have persistently urged its importance from time to time, it is only quite
recently that its necessity has been generally acknowledged.
That milk properly cooled at the farm will arrive at the factory in better
condition than it would had the animal heat been retained, no one having any
experience in handling milk at a factory for a moment doubts. Experiments
upon this point have been numerous, and results have demonstrated the fact
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 183
in the most positive manner. But while it is now universally admitted that
cooling has a preservative influence upon milk, it is not so clear to all that a
free exposure of it to the air during the cooling process improves its flavor.
There are those who contend that the cooling of milk by any process, will at
the same time deodorize it ; in other words, that the animal odor is a " bug-
bear " — that milk as soon as drawn from the cow may be placed in an air-tight
vessel, and cooled down to 60°, and may then be carted to the factory, and
will be as perfect in flavor and condition as it would if all its particles had
been freely exposed to the air during the process of cooling. The question
is one of considerable importance, since there are two classes of coolei's
before the public ; one representing the first and the other the last principle.
I have always held that freshly-drawn milk is improved by being exposed to
a current of pure air ; that the health of the cow, her food, water, and various
other circumstances have an influence upon her milk, rendering it at times
imperfect, and rank in flavor ; and that its exposure to the air takes out, in
some degree at least, disagreeable gases, making it more palatable. We
know that other substances infected with a disagreeable odor are often
improved by being exposed to the air, or are freed of it altogether ; and it
is not easy to see why milk may not be subject to the same law. Perhaps if
milk was always in perfect condition an exposure to the atmosphere while
cooling would not be deemed so impoi'tant.
I cannot say that with all milk at all seasons, an exposure to the air for
the purposes referred to would be necessary. That must be a matter of
experiment and investigation. But the fact that milk is produced often under
unfavorable circumstances ; and that it sometimes possesses a taint before it
is drawn from the cow, would seem to favor the notion that airing it would
be beneficial. The exposure to the air of milk coming from cows fed upon
turnips may not free it altogether from the turnip flavor ; but the chance for
its improvement, I think, would be greater from this treatment than to shut
it out from the air, and to cool it in a way that permits no gases to escape. A
few years ago I prevailed upon Mr. Arnold to investigate and experiment in
this matter, in order to see if my own experiments and conclusions were
correct. He arrived at the same results. In order to show that there is no
necessary connection between animal heat and animal odor, and that animal
heat does not difier from heat derived from other sources, he made the follow-
ing experiments, which I give in his own words :
" By abstracting the heat rapidly by an application of ice and cold water,
I easily succeeded in removing the heat and leaving the odor in the milk. It
is true that in experiments for this pui-pose, the odor was not so apparent to
the olfactory nerves as to the organs of taste. The animal odor became an
animal ^avor. But upon warming the milk again the odor revived. Then
by the use of a filter of pulverized charcoal, I succeeded perfectly in remov-
ing every trace of animal odor from milk when first drawn and leaving the
animal heat in the milk."
184 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
After pointing out what animal odor is, he says : — " Because the cowy
smell has died away when the milk is down to 70° or below, it has usually
been supposed that the odor or cause of the odor was whoUy removed. But
it is by no means necessarily so ; for unless the cooling has been very slow,
or the milk has been spread so thin as to make the exit of the gases easy,
the cause of the odor (the condensed gases) will be there, and be readily
detected by the taste ; and at 68° or 60° it will remain there until the milk
sours. The cowy flavor is most effectually preserved when milk is cooled in
a close vessel shut out from the air, and the heat absorbed away by an appli-
cation of ice and cold water."
Again : " The gas in milk varies both in quality and relative effect. For
instance, it is in the smallest amount when the cow is in good health and
quiet. It is more abundant when actively exercised, as when sharply driven
to the yard by dogs. It needs but little hurrying, especially in the morning,
to make the effect apparent in cheese. It is different in health and disease,
and very abundant and very infectious in cases of fever. There is more in a
state of debility than of strength ; and more when pinched with cold than
when comfortably warm.
" The most marked effects that I have observed, have been produced by
the odor of milk from cows in a feverish state — a state that may generally be
detected readily by smelling the milk. It becomes so infectious that a small
quantity — the milk of a single cow even — will infect a whole vat full of good
milk. In connection with the rennet, it becomes a ferment, inducing rapid
changes in the milk and curd. New gases are evolved, which, becoming
more elastic as the temperature is raised, swell out the lump of curds, giving
them a soft spongy feel, till at length their bulk is so much increased that
they float in the whey. But perhaps some will say this is the result of
diseased milk ; it is not chargeable to animal odor ; the milk is faulty. I
once thought so too, but I have found since that I was mistaken. In the
worst cases I have seen, the milk, for aught I can discover, is as good as any
other. It may be somewhat altered in the proportion of its elements, perhaps
it is, but it does not differ materially from other milk when new. I filtered
a sample of feverish milk in the fore part of August, when the weather was
so very hot and dry, and floating curds were so very common ; the result was
very striking. The filter was all ready and the milk turned in as soon as
drawn, and though it stood at about 90" when it issued from the filter, it was
free from any offensive odor, and its flavor was delicious," and very different,
he remarks, from milk cooled by ice-water to a low temperature.
The remedy he suggests, is to give the gases from which the odor arises
a chance to escape as soon as possible after the milk is drawn ; for the reason
that they are then more elastic and escape more easily, as well also to keep
them from imparting an influence to the milk from their presence. And he
remarks that this should be done at the dairy^ because it is generally a little
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 185
too ^late when milk gets to the factory. The question is one ol much interest
to cheese-makers, and should be studied.
CA2SnsriNG AND KEEPING MILK IN GOOD ORDEE.
The Food Committee of the Society of Arts in England, has been discuss-
ing, recently, the means to be employed for preserving milk in good order
during the transit over long distances to the city. It appears that milk pass-
ing over the Great Western Railway to London, is in cans holding sixteen
imperial gallons. An effort has been made to reduce the size of the cans to
a capacity of about four gallons each, similar to those adopted in France.
THE FRENCH CAN
has a tight-fitting cover, and the vessels are completely filled, so as to prevent
disturbance of the particles of milk, by motion in transit. It is said the milk
passing over the railways in France, arrives at its destination generally in
good order. The question therefore arose as to the advantage of these cans,
over those of larger size, if any, in the preservation of milk during its transit
to the city. Mr. Geo. Braham, managing director of the Express Country
Milk Company, and who appears to have had large experience in this business,
and to have been also a close observer as to the condition of milk under
various circumstances, opposed reducing the size of the cans, on account of
the greater trouble in moving to and from the milk vans. He stated that the
great secret in having milk in good condition was in allowing it to cool
sufiiciently before being placed in the cans. The shaking of the milk in the
conveyance would not be greater in a large can than in a small one, provided
in both cans they were filled thoroughly full. It was his opinion if milk was
packed at a temperature of fifty to sixty degrees, the shaking would have no
prejudicial effect upon it. If the milk was packed at seventy or eighty
degrees, the agitation would tend to separate the butter and to promote the
deposit of caseine ; and if the temperature of the air was no higher than that
of the milk, no injury would be occasioned by the admission of the air to
the milk, while it remained in the cans. He stated that a large quantity of
milk arriving at night was left standing at the station until four o'clock next
morning. The milk that was put in the cans warm and the lids kept on all
night, acquired a bad smell, and it would take from two to three hours' expo-
sure for that smell to pass off.
EFFECT OF AGITATING MILK IN TRAVELING.
As to the question whether the agitation of the milk in traveling destroyed
the cream in the milk brought into London, Mr. Baetlett replied that the
globules would not be destroyed if the milk was put into the cans at a
sufficiently low temperature, say sixty degrees.
effect of SOILS ON KEEPING QUALITY OF MILK.
The Express Country Milk Company received milk for two yeai'S from
Wareham in Dorsetshire, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles by rail,
186 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
and seven miles by road. It arrived in London in fine condition. This result
was attributed in part to the chalky nature of the soil where the milk was
produced, and to the thorough manner in which the milk was cooled before
being packed. He stated that it was a well known fact, that the milk of cows
fed ofl" heavy clay land, would not keep so long by several hours, as that
produced on light or chalky soils. The influence of soil upon the keeping
qualities of milk, is a question which has received but little attention from
the American Dairyman, and it would be well if experiments were made to
determine this point.
EFFECT OF CARRIAGE UPON THE CREAM PRODUCT.
Milk that is carried does not thi'ow up so much cream when set, as it
would if placed in the milk house at the farm. From the experiments in
England, the amount of cream which rose to the surface of the milk when
set, was rendered less by about twenty per cent, through traveling, that per-
centage being retained in the milk. As to the advantage of cooling milk
before canning, in order to prevent cream from rising and churning into
butter while traveling ; Mr. B. said that the express company received ten cans
of milk from one dairy every day last summer, and there was not a particle
of butter in them, though they traveled two miles by road to the station,
forty-eight miles by rail to the metropolitan terminus, and three miles by van
to the place of business. Some of the cans were only three parts full, and yet
the cream was retained in the milk, although from being cooled it would
take some hours longer for the cream to rise.
HOW ENGLISH CREAM IS TRANSPORTED.
When cream is sent in a separate state to London it is packed solid in
bottles prepared for the purpose, and kept cool by grass or cabbage leaves
fastened around the bottles.
MILKING FOR THE LONDON MARKET.
For supplying the London market with milk, the system of twelve hours
milking is generally adopted. The milk supplied in the early morning is
milked during the night, say from seven P. M. to two A. M., the hour
depending upon the time the last train at night, or the early train, calls at the
country station. The afternoon milk is milked from nine to eleven A. M.,
and is distributed between two and four o'clock, P. M.
OPEN OR CLOSED CANS.
The English milk can has holes in the lid of the can, through which air is
admitted to the milk. The Parisian milk is generally acknowledged to keep
longer than that supplied in London, and this has been attributed to its being
hermetically closed in the can while traveling. It was stated, however,
that the real secret of the matter was, that the French dairymen mixed
bicarbonate of soda with their milk, which served to avert decomposition, and
hence the milk was kept in good order, for a longer period than milk in its
natural state. I scive the main features or substance of remarks brought out,
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 187
as they have a px'actical bearing on the great question now agitating the dairy-
men of America — the means of getting milk in good order to the factories.
COAGULATIO]sr OF MILK.
We have now come to that jiart of our subject in which some of the
phenomena connected with the coagulation of milk, and its separation into
curd and whey, may be considered. I shall speak in another place of rennet ;
a term used by dairymen to designate the stomach of the young calf after it
is properly cleansed, dried, and prepared for the purpose of coagulating milk
for cheese making. But the explanation of its action on milk, as well as the
thickening or curdling of milk from souring, together with other somewhat
peculiar behavior of milk, Avhich has not been satisfactorily accounted for on
the old theories, will perhaps best be treated in this connection. I have
alluded to the aid which has been given by microscopic investigations in
the elucidation of these questions, and to the theory now set up by scien-
tific men in regard to the coagulation of milk. In the discussion of this
topic, I can only give briefly the outline of the theory, and I shall draw
largely in what I have to say from the recent address of Prof. Caldwell,
before the American Dairymen's Association. But in the first place, let us
go back a little to the j)oint where the coagulation of milk was alluded to.
If we take a piece of the dried rennet, soak it in water, and pour the liquid
into a portion of warm milk it soon begins to thicken, and turns into a jelly-
like clot, and after a while it separates into whey and curd. Scientific and
practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is held in solution by a
small quantity of alkali, that when in warm weather the milk curdles, lactic
acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from a portion of the
sugar of milk, and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali which holds the
caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk.
Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the
sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates sponta-
neously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of rennet,
in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the removal
of the free alkali by lactic acid. This theory, says Voklcker, is not quite
consistent with facts. The caseine in milk cannot be said to be held in solu-
tion by free alkali ; for although it is true that milk often has a slightly
alkaline reaction, it is likewise true that perfectly fresh milk is sometimes
slightly acid. We might as well say, therefore, that the caseine is held in
solution by a little free acid as by free alkali.
Again, newly-drawn milk is often perfectly neutral ; but whether milk be
neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution,
which cannot therefore depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that
milk when it turns sour curdles readily. It is not the fact that a good deal
of acid curdles milk, which I dispute ; but the assumption that the caseine in
milk is held in solution by free alkali.
188 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
"the actiok or eennet upon milk,
then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have
treated this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as ferments, A
rennet it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free lactic acid "
I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated, and not
simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh and
neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is perfectly
neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded in
separating the curd by rennet, and, what is more, obtained a whey which
had an alkaline reaction."
And he says further : — " What may be the precise mode in which rennet
acts upon milk I do not presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui
generis^ which as yet is only known by its effects. We at present are even
unacquainted with the j)i'ecise chemical character and composition of the
active principle in rennet, and have not even a name for it."
" Now, we know," says Professor Caldwell, " that any structure that
has been built up by the vital forces acting in the vegetable or animal world,
from the simplest plant that grows in water to the most perfect animal that
walks on land, will, after life has departed, begin to suffer change if left
exposed to the air under ordinary circumstances ; and this change will go on
unless stopped by some artificial application, till the structure has nearly dis-
appeared, and nothing more is left than would remain of the body were it at
once put into the fire and burned — only a few ashes — while carbonic acid
and ammonia have passed off into the atmosphere. Before this final change
is reached, however, a great many intermediate products are formed, some
of which are useful to man, some are poisonous, some have foul or agreeable
odors, and some have peculiar flavors." "These changes and compositions are
usually classified under three heads — ■
DECAY, EEEMENTATION AND DECOMPOSITION.
" Decay is simply a slow combustion or burning of the body ; it depends
upon a free supply of air from which the necessary oxygen is absorbed. In
both fermentation and putrefaction, on the other hand, there is nothing but a
re-arrangement of the particles or elements already in the body, sometimes
with and sometimes without the evolution of gaseous products. If these
gaseous products have no offensive odor, or if no ammonia is formed, the
process is called fermentation, and generally some useful application of a
part of the product of a fermentation is made — thus, sugar is converted by
fermentation into a gas, carbonic acid and alcohol ; and in the preparation of
bread we cause sugar in the dough to ferment by means of yeast, so as to
produce carbonic acid, that in its attempt to escape makes the bread light ;
while for beer and wine we cause sugar to ferment for the sake of alcohol.
If, on the other hand, a part of the products have an offensive odor, or ammo-
nia is found among these products, we call the change putrefaction. Ammonia
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 189
is always one of the 23roducts of true putrefaction, and the offensive odor
nearly always, though it may sometimes be weak. All substances which are
liable to decay (fermentation or putrefaction), may be separated into two
great divisions, namely : — Those that are composed of three elements, carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, and those which in addition to these three have one
more, nitrogen. Compounds of the first class, like sugar, starch and fats, are
usually very stable ; their elements are firmly united together, like the links
of a strong chain. Compounds of the second class, on the other hand, like
white of eggs, flesh and the caseine of milk are unstable ; the introduction
of the element nitrogen has made a weak link in the chain.
" Now it has been found by experiment, if the white of an egg or a piece
of meat is boiled in a glass flask with water for an hour or so, and the mouth
of the flask is then closed with a plug of carefully cleaned cotton, or with a
cork through which a glass tube passes, that is drawn out to a fine orifice at
both ends, and outside the flask has a long arm bent downward, the substance
will remain unchanged for months, even in a place where all the circumstan-
ces are made favorable as possible for putrefaction — free access of air through
the interstices of the cotton plug, or through the glass tube — a plenty of
moisture, and a suitable temperature ; and that no essential change has been
produced in the substance by the boiling, may be shown by simply removing
the plug, when putrefaction and decomposition will set in. On the other
hand, if the experiment is varied only to this : that if the substance is not
thoroughly heated to the temperature of boiling heat, putrefaction may
speedily set in, even though the flask be closed air-tight. Now, microscopic
examination has revealed the fact, that every case of fermentation or putre-
faction is attended with the development or growth of living organisms;
most of which at least belong to the vegetable kingdom, and the present most
generally accepted view — that which has the balance of evidence in its favor
— is, that these organisms are the cause of all fermentation and putrefaction ;
that the dust of the atmosphere, as well as all fermenting or putrefying matter,
contains either the germs of the microscopic fungi, or the fungi themselves
in one stage of development or another ; that these germs fall on all sub-
stances exposed to the air, and that if the substance so exposed is one that
can nourish their further development, they will vegetate and increase, and in
so doing cause the substance itself to decompose — that these fungi like all
others, and like all plants, require moisture and a moderately elevated tem-
perature for their growth, as well as food for their sustenance — are killed by
exposure to a temperature of two hundred and twelve degrees, Fahrenheit,
and that they live at the expense of a portion of the substance in which they
grow, while the rest is decomposed, that is, fermented or putrefied, with
the final result of the breaking down of the whole structure. Accordingly,
the reason why the meat in the flask closed with a plug of cotton is not
attacked, is that the germs, minute as they may be, are yet entangled among
the fibers of the cotton, so that none reach the meat ; they do not attack the
i90 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
substance in the flask closed with a cork and glass tube, because the germs
being heavier than the air, can be transported only by currents in it, or by
cohesion to some moving body. There is no current of air passing through
the glass tube into the flask that is sufliciently strong to carry them up
through this long arm.
" The reason why previous boiling is necessary is, that every substance that
has been exposed to the air has some of the atmospheric dust containing these
germs adhering to it, which, if they are not killed, will begin to vegetate and
excite decomposition as soon as outward circumstances are favorable. The
reason why substances of the second class will decompose more readily than
those of the first class, containing no nitrogen, is, not only that the elements
of the second class are more feebly held together, as before said, but also that
these fungi must have nitrogen iu their food, and that although they can, to a
limited extent, draw it from the large supply in the atmosphere, if exposed
to that, yet they can get it far more easily and naturally from the nitrogen-
eous matter in which they take root.
" The result of the growth of these fungi on or in a substance, or in other
words, the products of tlie fermentation or putrefaction which that growth
induces, depend mostly on the nature of the substance, and the particular
stage of development of the fungus, and often, but not always, upon the
species of fungus ; not always, for in some cases several diflferent species of
fungi produce the same efiect upon the same substance. On the whole, the
result depends more upon the chemical composition of the substance that is
decomposed, than upon the species of fungus producing the decomposition.
The transformation which these fungi undergo is very remarkable. They
assume many different forms, adapting themselves to the chemical composition
of the substances with which they come in contact."
THE FUNGUS AFFECTING CHEESE,
The particular fungus intimately connected with the art of cheese-making
is said to be the Pencillium crustaceum. It is found almost everywhere on
the surface of the earth, constituting generally the greenish-blue mold that
appears on vegetable and animal matters, and is concerned in all the common
processes of fermentation and putrefaction. It is composed of delicate white
filaments or threads that bear on their ends the groups of spores or germs,
which to tlxe naked eye appear like a fine, bluish-green dust. If these spores
are scattered over substances similar in chemical composition to that which
produced the mold, it can be reproduced again and so on from generation to
generation. But if these spores be sown on distilled water, they swell up
and burst, expelling a great number of minute bodies, called zoospores. These
soon begin to grow by elongation, and as each elongates partition walls are
thrown across, so that one sac or cell becomes sevei-al, and the multiplication
of cells is so rapid that from a single zoospore an almost incredible number
of new cells can be produced in a few hours. According to Hallieb these
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 191
cells, forming delicate, brittle chains, are found in great numbers every night,
in the mouth or throat of all the digestive organs. If the spores of the mold
are put under a liquid rich in nitrogen they swell up and expel the zoospores,
and then each zoospore sends, out a little bud that soon becomes detached
from the mother cell and in its turn produces another cell, and so each new
cell goes on multiplying.
To this form of the fungus the name of micrococcus has been given, and
Hallier considers it the cause of all putrefaction, and calls it putrefactive
yeast. According to him both rennet and cheese are highly charged with
this yeast. If the micrococcus cell be put in a liquid poor in nitrogen, it
produces the common yeast of the housewife, which multiplies as the micro-
coccus., and causes the common alcoholic fermentation. This form of the
fungus is called cryptococcus. Again, if the peyicillium spores be put in
milk which has been boiled to kill all germs in it, we have within two days
the same result as when they were sown in a liquid rich in nitrogen, viz. :
the zoospores and the microocccus cells, and so soon as this m,icrococcus
appears we have souring and curdling of the milk. And when a small
quantity of lactic acid has been thus formed a new condition has been
assumed by the fungus. The minute m,icrococcus cells enlarge as they do
when about to pass into the cryptococcus., but with quite another result,
viz., the production of elongated cells, four-sided and often with abrupt
square ends, possessing a peculiar luster and multiplying by subdivision into
chains of cells, and this form is called arthrococcus, or jointed yeast, and is
the ferment which attends the formation of lactic acid in the souring of milk.
If the pencillium spores be sown in completely fermented wine or beer,
wherein all the sugar has been converted into alcohol, we have another form
of yeast which is concerned in the formation of vinegar. Under different
circumstances at least six forms of cells can be obtained from the spores of
the pencillium crustaceum., and any of these forms, if sown on a substance
similar to that which produced the mold, will produce the same mold again.
The wonderful rapidity with which these fungi produce new cells is shown
by the fact that one single pencillium spore to start with will produce in the
space of twenty-four hours, at a low estimate, four hundred million micro-
coccus cells. The spores also have a strong hold of life. They can be dried,
frozen and heated to any temperature short of 212®, without injury, and will
retain their germinating power a long time, in some cases three and a-half
years."
Enough has been said, I think, to indicate the basis of this theory and the
line of argument adopted. Were I familiar with microscopic examinations,
and the peculiar habits of fungi or this low order of life, I might be able
perhaps to present this matter more clearly ; but from a long and intimate
acquaintance with the behavior of milk in its relation to dairy practice, I
can judge somewhat as to these views, and they give at least a plausible
explanation to many things connected with the action of milk that have been
192 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
shrouded in mystery. If the cause of the conversion of sugar of milk into
lactic acid is due to fermentation, or the result of the action of living organ-
isms on the substance fermented, we should have such organisms here.
Hallier and Pasteur, and others, have proved that the souring of milk is
accompanied by a species of yeast ferment, different from the ordinary yeast
or alcohol ferment ; it is started by the micrococcus yeast, and its continu-
ance is attended with the production of regular lactic acid yeast cells or
arthrococcus below the surface. In the milk as it comes from the cow we
have the micrococcus cells already formed. Hallier proved their presence
in sow's milk, and has always found them in the blood, even of healthy
animals; hence it is reasonable to suppose they are in all milk. And it
appears so long as these cells remain unchanged and do not grow and multiply,
the milk Avill not be affected by their presence. Hallier asserts that the
action of rennet is due simply to the fact that it, or its extract, contains in an
extraordinary measure the micrococcus of the particular fungi which produce
the change in milk called coagulation ; that without this micrococcus, or the
germs that give rise to it, the change will not take place in the manner that
we ordinarily bring it to pass ; and that the reason why if the extract of
rennet is boiled a few minutes it will no longer coagulate milk any more than
it will turn it sour, is because Ave have killed the fungus ; and that the coagu-
lation is attended with, or is the result of a rapid growth and multiplication
of the micrococcus ; consequently the curd must contain it, and by still further
increase in the ripened cheese, that is saturated and penetrated through and
through with it.
HEAT AFFECTHiTG RENNETS.
"W^hen I first commenced cheese-making, twenty years' ago, I lost a large
number of rennets by hanging them near a stove-pipe that was kept very hot.
The veils were exposed to this heat for several weeks, and when I came to
use them they would not coagulate the milk. Of course I learned a lesson
from this ; but I could not fully satisfy myself then why their action was lost ;
but upon the theory here suggested it is evident the fungus was destroyed.
We know, too, that excessive washing of the stomach when taken from the
calf will almost wholly destroy its virtue ; hence the experienced dairyman
is careful only to wipe off with a cloth any dirt that may adhere to it. The
washing evidently removes a large number of micrococcus cells, thereby
accounting for its loss of strength.
Now, it appears so long as we cultivate a friendship with the micrococcus,
giving it good, pure milk to feed upon and controlling its action by tempera-
ture, air and cleanliness it is harmless, and we make it subserve a very useful
purpose. But if by any means we allow other fungi, or such as originate in
putrid matter, to get possession of the milk, their influence is harmful in the
highest degree. Nothing is of more common observation in the practical
handling of milk than its especial susceptibility to emanations from putrid
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 193
matter, and so readily can these minute germs make their way anywhere and
everywhere, that if the air containing them in unusual quantity is inhaled by
the cows, their milk may be infected before it leaves the bag. We see then
how important it is that the utmost cleanliness be observed with everything
that comes in contact with milk.
A PARTICLE OF TAINT
in the air or on the walls of the dairy, or in the pails or vats, means a quan-
tity of fungus germs, often a multitude of them, all ready and most willing
to take possession of the milk and to hold it too, when once in possession, so
that no process will expel them, except such as will ruin the product which
we are manufacturing. From what has been said I think it will be plain that
in this single subject of milk alone, there is ample field for investigation,
investigation that will tax all our skill, all our talents, and which will afford
ample material for study for a long time, and to master which in all its details
is no holiday affair. And I must confess after twenty years' practical expe-
rience and observation in handling milk, after years of labor in correcting old
abuses and errors, and leading our dairymen up to the improved manufacture
of to-day, I can still see an immense field for investigation and improvement.
And I think there is some inducement for young men to study these questions
and perfect themselves in dairy practice.
FIEST-CLASS CHEESE-MAKEBS
in New York command a salary of from |1,000 to $1,300 for the season of
eight months, and the demand for good cheese-makers has been for several
years larger than the supply. I am in receipt of many applications from
factoi'ies every year for cheese-makers, only a part of which can be filled, and
if the business continues to prosper it must continue to offer a fair field of
employment for young men who have nothing but their hands and brains with
which to make their way in the world.
CONDENSED MILK.
Within a few years past milk has been put upon the market in a form or
condition to keep sound and fresh in flavor for long periods. The importance
of the discovery of condensing and preserving milk can scarcely be estimated
at the present time, but there can be little doubt, as the article becomes
better known among consumers of milk in cities, that it is destined to revo-
lutionize the prevailing system of the milk trade. Before proceeding to give
some of the processes for condensing milk which have come under my obser-
vation, the following brief history of the origin and development of the
condensed milk trade, from the London Milk Journal, will be in place.
ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OP THE CONDENSED MILK TRADE.
Condensed Milk should, with greater propriety, be styled " Preserved
Milk," since, although the milk is condensed, the main object sought is, its
preservation from decay. For many years there have been upon the market
13
194 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
preparations called "Desiccated Milk," "Milk Powders," "Milk Essence,"
etc. But these were articles prepared from milk, rather than actual milk. They
found, however, prior to the introduction of condensed milk proper, consid-
erable demand for use at sea and in the colonies, where anything that has
the appearance of milk will in the nature of tlie case command more or less
sale. Still they did not enter into family consumption to any extent in Eng-
land. The desideratum was a preserved milk which should be so pure,
wholesome and palatable, as to take the place of crude milk in large cities.
To Mr. Gail Borden of New York, should be awarded the credit of first
producing preserved milk that filled all these conditions. Indeed, all the
brands of good or even fair quality now sold, are prepared substantially under
the system originated by him. A man of intense energy and unyielding
tenacity of purpose, and an inventor of great ingenuity if not of marked
scientific attainments, he added to all this the enthusiasm of a philanthropist
who believed that preserved milk would be a boon to humanity. As long
ago as 1846 he began his experiments, conducted simultaneously with others
whose aim was the preservation of meat. It may be mentioned here that in
the London Exhibition of 1851, a gold medal was awarded to Mr. Borden
for his " Meat Biscuit." "We believe that he did not at this time exhibit his
condensed milk. It was not until about 1856 the he himself arrived at the
conviction that he had obtained the quality he had been seeking. Mean-
while he had expended energy, time, and quite a fortune in his experiments,
for he at length saw that to experiment to advantage a large amount of
material, involving much expense, must be used in each instance.
At an early stage of his experiments, he decided that milk could not be
preserved in a dry form as " desiccated," or " powdered," or " solidified," but
must be left in a semi-liquid state. That some preservative agent must be
added, and that nothing but water must be eliminated, also became apparent.
The result is that condensed milk, as now known to the trade and consumers,
consists of milk from which only water has been taken, and to which nothing
but sugar has been added, the product being of the consistency of honey, and
by dilution in water reconvertible to milk itself, somewhat sweetened. It
may be stated in this connection, that all the dry preserved milks require to
be dissolved in hot water, while the condensed milk prepared under the
Borden system readily dissolves in cold watei".
By 1861 Mr. Borden had quite extensively introduced his article, and
four or five factories were in operation, capable of producing in the aggregate
five thousand cans of one pound each per day. During the War of the
Rebellion, large quantities were required for the Northern Armies, the
officers and many privates purchasing it of the sutlers, while the hospitals
were supplied by the Government and the various Christian and Aid Societies.
This gave an impetus to the trade, at the same time that the shipping demand
steadily increased. About this time Mr. Borden put upon the market for
city use, what he calls
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 195
plain" condeksed milk.
This is prepared in the same way as the other, except that no sugar is
added, and it is not hermetically sealed. It will remain sound from one to
two weeks, and it is so convenient, as well as economical, that it is stated
that now more than one-third of the milk used in New York City is of this
kind. With the end of the war and the dissolution of the armies, the demand
for sugared condensed milk fell off, and the manufacturers, who had been
stimulated to too great a production, turned their attention to this " plain
condensed milk." It would be well if enterprise and capital and philanthro-
phy could be enlisted in supplying London with this form of milk, to the
extent that New York and other American cities are now su23plied with it.
We have no means of estimating the present extent of the manufacture of
condensed milk in the United States. For this we must wait for the returns
of the census of 1870. However, we know that the capacity of the eight or
ten factories on the Hudson, in Connecticut, Pennsylvania and Illinois, is not
less than five hundred cases of four dozen pound cans per day, equal to eight
million five hundred thousand pounds per annum. It may be stated that one
pound of the condensed is equivalent to four or five pouuds of crude milk.
THE EXPOETS OF CONDENSED MILK
(combined with sugar,) from the United States during the twelve months
ending September 30, 1870, amounted to a declared custom house valuation
of $200,000, equal in round numbers to £40,000. In the year 1869 it was
imported into England from New York to the value of upwards of £16,000.
The bulk of the remainder exported from New York was sent to South
America, India, Australia, and China, while that sent to London and Liver-
pool was mainly held in bond, and sent eventually to the colonies or disposed
of as ship's stores. We now pass to the introduction of the manufacture of
the Borden kind of condensed milk this side of the Atlantic, and to the
development of its manufacture and sale in Europe. In 1865 an American
gentleman who had noted the advantages of the article in the American
army during the four years of the war, became resident in Switzerland in the
capacity of U. S. Consul. Remembering the cheapness and richness of Swiss
milk, the cheapness of labor, and other facilities afforded in that country, he
conceived the idea of preparing
CONDENSED MILK IN SWITZERLAND.
The ultimate success of his project has abundantly proved the soundness
of his conception. He promoted the "Anglo-Swiss Condensed Milk Co.,"
the extent of whose present business is set forth in the following extract
which we take from the " Grocer " of Dec. 31, 1870. The facts seem to have
been compiled from statistics procured at the Board of Trade, which were
doubtless obtained from the Report of the British Legation at Berne :
" In the Canton of Zug there has of late grown up a new mode of pre-
196 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
serving the milk, which, owing to the good pasturage of that locality, is very
excellent in quality. In the Commune of Cham the Anglo-Swiss Condensed
Milk Co., with a capital of £12,000, employ about sixty operatives in their
factory, the tall chimney of which may be seen by the railway traveler passing
over the line from Lucerne to Zurich. The number of cows hired for the
year is fourteen hundred and forty, and the average amount of condensed
milk prepared daily during the three hundred and sixty-five days of the year,
as it is necessary to include the Sundays, is one hundred and ten cases of four
dozen each of one pound cans ; these equal one million nine hundred and
twenty-seven and two hundred cans as the produce of the year. The price
of the crude milk is seventeen cents per mass, or about one cent per quart,
and the daily cost of the cans made in the establishment amounts to £16 10s.
About one-half of the produce is sent direct to London, where one-half of
this is consumed, while the remainder goes for ship's stores, is exported to
the colonies and sent to the provincial towns of England. Entering as it
does into the daily food of the masses no duty should be imposed upon it ; at
present it is classed with confectionry and pays accordingly, whereas it is
milk ; at all events only the quantum of sugar which it contains should pay
duty, and this quantum is uniform and can easily be ascertained. The half
of the produce not sent to London is distributed over Germany, and there is
some demand from France and Russia. We have been informed that a large
shipment was placed in Paris two days before the investment of the city,
and balloon letters beg that a large supply may be ready to be sent in so soon
as the siege shall terminate. Owing to the demands from the sutlers who
supply the armies of Germany and France and the various aid societies for the
moment, this company is only able, with great difficulty, to keep an adequate
supply for their regular demands. The process of condensation has already
been fully described to our readers, who are now asked to patronize not only
other Swiss condensed milks but Irish condensed milk also.
" It should be mentioned that this company was the first in Europe to
introduce condensed milk to family use. Until its advent the article was
known as only for ship's stores and for colonial consumption. By extensive
and systematic advertising, and through the boundless energy which charac-
terizes your business Yankee, this company has received a large demand for
ordinary family consumption, not only in England but also in Germany and
Russia. In this respect its success may be largely attributed to the fact that
Baron Liebig and other authorities on questions of food, supported it heartily
from the first, and allowed the patronage of their names for publication. Its
success led naturally to the springing up of competitive companies. These
Jiave been established at Gruyeres and half-a-dozen other places in Switzer-
land, in Bavaria, in Holstein, in Ireland, and in England. But failing to
produce a standard quality, and wanting in prestige^ they have nearly all
ceased to manufacture."
All now known to the London trade are the " Anglo-Swiss " (Milk-maid
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 197
brand), Mr. Newman's "Irish Condensed Milk," at Mallow, near Cork,
(Harp brand), and the "English Condensed Milk Company," (Lion brand),
whose works are at Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. At one time the milk pre-
pared at Gruyeres had a good sale in London, but since the outbreak of the
war, in July, none of its brand has appeared here. In the spring of 1869 it
was announced that the
IRISH CONDENSED MILK
(Mr. Newman's) was about to be put upon the market. However, it was
not introduced until the spring of 1870, but then under powerful patronage.
We cannot say definitely what quantity Mr. Newman has prepared, but we
have reason to believe that it was about ten thousand cases of four dozen
one pound cans each.
THE " ENGLISH CONDENSED MILK COMPANY "
began to manufacture about the 1st of September, 1870. The editor of the
Food Joui'nal recently visited its works at Aylesbury. He seems to have
been very much struck by the system under which this Company prepares its
condensed milk; he remarks upon the " almost absurd cleanliness " observed.
We gather from his statement that this Company makes about twenty cases
of four dozen one pound cans six days per week. It seems that, unlike
the Swiss Company, they do not work Sundays. This company was registered
June, 1870, under the Limited Liability Act, as having a capital of £5,000
only, but it is fair to suppose, considering the extent of its works, that its
capital has since been considerably increased. It will doubtless still add to
its facilities as the demand increases. We have good authority for stating
that neither the Swiss nor the English Company has lately been able to
supply the call for their products. On the other hand, the competition
between the companies is so eager and keen, and prices thereby have been so
reduced that any new company will have to encounter great difficulties before
it can establish itself
It would be invidious in us to express any opinion as to the comparative
merits of the condensed milk ofiered to the public by these several companies.
That is the public's own concern ; the best and cheapest will in the end win,
as it is the nature of trade. The value of the condensed milk sold in London
daily is not less than £150. It is to be found at most shops in London, for
sale at tenpence per can, which is cheaper than ordinary crude milk."
THE BOEDEN FACTORIES — PROCESS OF CONDENSING.
Persons proposing to enter upon the business of condensed milk manu-
facture should visit some establishment of the kind, and make themselves
familiar with the various parts of the process, obtaining a knowledge of the
buildings and machinery in detail. There are several factories in operation
on the Borden plan, which is now considered the best, as with proper care a
very fine flavored and superior article is manufactured. The principal factories
are at Wassaic, N. Y., Livermore Falls, Maine, West Brookfield, Mass.,
198 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Winstead, Conn., and at Elgin, Illinois. The Elgin factory is quite noted for
its fine product under the management of Mr. C. Chujrch. I have examined
this factory and its operations several times, and present here some of the
leading features of the establishment, and its process of condensino-.
The main building is sixty-five feet by one hundred feet, three stories
high. Upon the ground floor there are four rooms. The bath room is forty-
five feet by sixty feet. Here the milk is prepared and condensed. The room
contains a milk receiver, heating vat and well, vacuum pan and pump. The
second room on the ground floor is to the right of the bath room, and here
the milk is cooled. It contains three vats for cooling milk, with capacity for
cooling fifty cans at a time. Spring water of the natural temperature of fifty
degrees at all seasons of the year, is used for cooling the milk. The third
room is used for a hall and store room, where sugar and tin are stored. The
fourth room is called the meat room. Here meat is prepared for cooking and
condensing. It has a meat chopper and force pump, the latter of which is
used for elevating rain water from a cistern located about ninety-five feet
from the building, and which is used for meat purposes. The boiler and
engine rooms are attached to north side of main building. It contains two
boilers and an engine of fifteen horse power. The chimney is eighty-five feet
high. In the rear of the boilers is the coal house. The cheese manufacturing
room is in the rear of the bath room, and is twenty by thirty feet. The
receiving room, where milk is delivered, is on the left of bath room. Here
the dairymen unload their milk and have their cans washed, steamed and
rinsed, so as to be prepared for milk the next day. A department like this
should be attached to every cheese or butter factory in the land, as the cans
are thoroughly cleaned, and the steaming effectually destroys all germs of
ferment. The second story is divided up into a room for preparing extract of
beef; tin room, where cans are made for putting up the milk ; sealing room,
where the condensed milk is filled into the smaller cans and sealed up, and
lastly, a room used for an office. The third story or floor, is used for general
store room, and together with the part leading over the boilers, is used
for curing cheese. Connected with the establishment is an ice house, thirty-
eight by fifty-five feet, and a box shop ; thus rendering the whoTe very com-
plete for doing the various kinds of work which belong to the condensing
business.
When I was last at Elgin, I found the Elgin Condensed Milk Establish-
ment putting up large quantities of condensed milk for the Boston and New
York markets. This business is yet in its infancy, but the time is not far
distant, in my opinion, when a very large trade will be done in this direction.
City consumers who are in the habit of using condensed milk tell me they
prefer it for ordinary use ; that they are sure of getting a pure, unadulterated
article, and that it is cheaper even at a high price than milk ordinarily sold
in cities, because of the shameful adulterations practiced by milkmen, and
the liability of the milk getting sour ; losses of this kind continually occur-
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 199
ing more than make up the difference in price, so that condensed milk is the
cheaper of the two. Besides the convenience of always having sweet, pure,
milk in one's house, in small cans ready for use, is an important consideration
to the city consumer.
THE CONDENSING PROCESS
at the Elgin Works, is that under the patent of Gail Borden, and all his
plans and suggestions are here strictly carried out. At this establishment the
very greatest attention is paid to having milk delivered pure, and in perfect
*-.^g^der. They have an admirable set of rules as a guide to each patron, and
he is required to follow out the instructions to the letter. As these rules
will be valuable to every dairyman who handles milk, I shall present them
here at length.
RULES FOR THE TREATMENT OP MILK.
I. The milk shall be drawn from the cow in the most cleanly manner and
strained through wire-cloth strainers.
II. The milk must be thoroughly cooled immediately after it is drawn from
the cow, by placing the can in which it is contained in a tub or vat of cold
water, deep enough to come up to the hight of the milk in the can, containing
at least three times as much water as the milk to be cooled ; the milk to be
occasionally stirred until the animal heat is expelled as below.
III. In summer or in spring and fall, when the weather is warm, the bath
shall be spring water not over fifty-two degrees temperature (a day or a night
after a heavy rain excepted), constantly running or pouring in at the bottom
necessary to reduce the tempei-ature of the milk within forty-five minutes, to
below fifty-eight degrees ; and if night's milk, to remain in such bath until
the time of bringing it to the factory, to below fifty-five degrees. The
morning's milk not to exceed sixty degrees when brought to the factory.
IV. In winter or in freezing weather, the bath shall be kept at the coolest
point (it need not be running spring water) by the addition of ice or snow
sufiicient to reduce the temperature of night's milk speedily below fifty
degrees.
V. In spring and fall weather a medium course will be pursued, so that
night's milk shall be cooled within an hour below fifty degrees, and morning's
milk below fifty-five degrees.
VI. The bath and supply of water shall be so arranged as to let the water
flow over the top to carry off the warm water. The can in which the milk
is cooled shall be placed in the water immediately after the milking, and shall
remain therein until the process of cooling shall be finished.
VII. The night's and morning's milk shall be separately cooled before
mixing.
VIII. No milk shall be kept over to deliver at a subsequent time.
IX. The milk shall be delivered on the platform at the factory in Elgin
every day except Sunday,
200 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
X. Suitable cans of proper dimensions to transport the milk from the
dairy to the milk works shall be furnished by the seller and the cans shall be
brought full.
XI. The Company shall clean and steam the cans at the factory free of
charge, but customers shall keep the outside clean. The pails and strainers
employed shall be by the seller thoroughly cleaned, scalded in boiling water,
and dried morning and night.
XII. Immediately before the milk is placed in the cans they shall be thor-
oughly rinsed with clean, cold water, and great care shall be taken to keep
the cans and milk free from dirt or impurities of any kind. When the cans
are not in use they shall be turned down on a rack with the tops off.
XIII. All the " strippings," as well as the first part of the milk, shall be
brought. No milk will be received from a cow which has not calved at least
twelve days, unless by consent of Superintendent or Agent, who may deter-
mine its fitness sooner by a sample of the milk.
XIV. The cows are not to be fed on turnips or other food which would
impart a disagreeable flavor to the milk, nor upon any food which will not
produce milk of standard richness.
XV. It is further understood and agreed by the parties hereto, that if the
Superintendent or Agent of the Company shall have good reason to suspect,
either from evidence furnished or from the state of the milk itself, that water
has been added, or that it has not been cooled as provided, or that it has
been injured by carelessness, he shall have a right to refuse to receive such
milk, or any further quantity of milk from the person so violating these
directions and stipulations. The outlines of
THE CONDENSING PEOCESS
are briefly as follows : Each man's milk is examined as it is received, and if
all right it is strained and passes to the receiving vat. From this it is con-
ducted off, passing through another strainer into the heating cans, each
holding about twenty gallons. These cans set in hot water, and the milk
is held here until it reaches a temperature of 90°. It then goes through
another strainer and into a large wooden vat, at the bottom of which is a
coil of copper pipe, through which steam passes, and here it is heated up to
near the boiling point. Then the best quality of white granulated sugar is
added in the proportion of one and a-quarter pounds of sugar to the gallon
of milk, when it is drawn into vacuum pan having a capacity of receiving
three thousand quarts at a time. This pan is a copper cylinder with a coil of
copper pipe inside and jacket underside also for steam. The milk remains in
the vacuum pan subjected to steam for about three hours, losing about seven-
ty-five per cent, of its water, when it is drawn off into cans holding forty
quarts each. The cans are then set in a large vat containing cold water,
the water being of a hight equal to the milk in the cans, where it is stirred
until the temperature of the condensed milk is reduced to a little below 70°.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 201
It is then emptied into large drawing cans with faucets, and from them drawn
into small cans holding a pound each, immediately soldered to exclude the
air, and when properly labeled is ready for the market. There are
TWO KINDS OF CONDENSED MILK,
that containing sugar as above described, and simply the plain milk without
the addition of the sugar. The wholesale price received at this factory for
their milk is $3.50 for a dozen cans, or a trifle over twenty-nine cents per
pound. It will be seen that four pounds of fresh milk as drawn from the
cow, or about two quarts by measm-e, when condensed by taking out seventy-
five per cent, of water, will make one pound condensed milk, and therefore a
little more than fourteen and a-half cents per quart is realized for it. I am
not prepared to give the expense of manufacturing, but if four and a-half
cents per quart be taken to cover all expenses and this is doubtless too large
an estimate — we have the milk worth ten cents per quart to the producer.
THE CONDENSED MILK
is about the consistency of thick sirup, has a pleasant taste, and when used
for tea or coffee is not to be distinguished from pure, fresh country milk.
From what I saw of this establishment, and from a test of its products, I was
convinced of its great benefits to all parties concerned, and could not but
wish that more establishments of the kind were in operation throughout the
country. The factory at Elgin is managed by a company, and it was paying
farmers in the winter nineteen cents per gallon for milk.
PEOYOSt's CONDENSING FACTORY.
In 1865 I was at the Provost Condensing Works, in Middletown, Orange
Co., N". Y. The establishment was then under the management of Dr. C. E.
Crane, a very intelligent gentleman, who went over the premises with me
and explained the various apparatuses for manipulating the milk. The
process of evaporation here is different from that of Borden's, and was
claimed to take less heat. We give briefly a description of the process.
Milk is reduced and prepared in two forms at the factory. That which is
run off without the addition of sugar is called condensed milk, and when
sugar is used, concentrated milk.
During the sunimer about three thousand six hundred quarts per day are
received at the factory. The milk is weighed and tested when received, and
emptied into long pails holding twenty quarts, similar to the pails used at the
butter factories for cooling the milk. About eighteen quarts are put in each
pail, and after the milk has been cooled to 60° in order to divest it of animal
heat and expel the ammoniacal gas, the pails are immediately plunged into a
vat of water heated to a temperature of 185° to 190°. Refined loaf sugar is
added at this stage at the rate of four pounds for each pail or can. It is kept
in the vat of heated water about thirty minutes, when it is poured into an
immense pan having fifty corrugations which sets over water and upon a
202
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
furnace in the adjoining room. Here are arranged two large fans, directly
over the milk, which are kept in motion by machinery, the temperature
of the milk while evaporation is going on being 160°. The fans carry off
the water, forcing it through ventilators, out of the building, as fast as it is
formed into vapor. It takes about seven hours to condense the milk, seventy-
five per cent, of its bulk in water being driven off. The faucets at each end
of the pan are then opened and the condensed fluid passes through fine wire
strainers or sieves into large cans. These cans, when filled are rolled away
OP£N rARD
33FT.
CAKHHTER mop.
EVAPORAT/NGROOM
CtJ/BEKSlHe Pi,NS
L
CUOLER 6X12 FT.
Ground Plan or Provost's Condensed Milk Factory.
to the tables where their contents are drawn off into small tin cans holding a
pound each, and are immediately sealed up. The milk when condensed has
the consistency of thick molasses, and is then sold at from twenty-five to
forty cents per pound, according to the price of milk in the New York
markets. The cans are packed in barrels with saw-dust, and are thus shipped
to the markets — the milk being used in the navy and in hospitals, and in
warm climates.
Dr. CRAisrE informed me that milk thus prepared will keep good for years
without the least trouble He opened cans in my presence that contained
the preparation a year old, and I found it of good flavor and apparently
not injured by age. It had a rich, creamy taste, rather sweet, with a flavor
of boiled milk, but by no means unpleasant. The price paid for milk at the
factory during the summer had ranged from four to five and a-half cents
23er quart. In winter the price paid was seven and a-half cents per quart.
EXPORTS FKOM NEW YORK.
The exports of condensed milk from New York alone in 1869 amounted
to $79,652, of which England took $21,770; Austria $9,494 ; the States of
Columbia $9,176 ; China, $8,166 ; Brazil $3,087, and Cuba $3,093.
USE AND MANAGEMENT OF MILK AS A DIET FOR INFANTS AND CHILDREN.
The following paper by Dr. Alfred Wiltshire, M.R.C.P., of London,
Physician to the British Lying-in Hospital, and late Medical Inspector to
H. M. Privy Council, is a brief but valuable treatise upon this important
subject :
" It may with truth be said that the value of milk as a food for infants and
young children is incalculable. Not only is it the pabulum which thrifty nature
provides for the nourishment of the young of the highest order of animals, the
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 203
mammalia, among which man is the chief, but it is the single article of diet
upon which alone life can be sustained, and the body kept in perfect health
and vigor. Most people know something of this, yet seldom think how
variable a fluid milk may be or become according to the source whence it is
derived or its subsequent treatment. Few, among the millions who daily use
milk in their ordinary diet, reflect that the milk of each species of animal
possesses peculiar and distinctive characters specially fitting it for the nourish-
ment of the young of the same species, and fewer still that the milk of
different individuals of a given species varies considerably ; nay, more, that
the milk of the same individual may vary materially at different hours of the
day, or be changed by circumstances under which it is secreted. Thus, the
state of health, the kind of food, passion or emotion may greatly modify the
constitution of the fluid for better or worse, though the changes thus induced
be, especially in the case of passion or emotion, so subtle as to elude detection
by ordinary methods of examination, and only betray themselves by their
effects when consumed as food. It is obvious then that when we speak of
milk we speak of a fluid which may differ essentially, as it is obtained from
the cow, the goat, the ass or the mare, not to speak of the alterations in its
composition which may be induced in individuals by the conditions just
mentioned.
"Without dealing with the subtle changes of which milk is capable, and to
which woman's milk is more liable than that of any other animal, owing to
her great susceptibility to emotion, or indeed without considering human
milk at all, except by reference to it as a standard, I desire to say a few
words upon the use and management of cows', goats' and asses' milk as food
for infants and children, but chiefly of cows' milk, that being practically the
most readily obtainable, if not the best. The foregoing remarks are made with
the view of impressing upon the non-professional reader, the fact that there
are important differences in the chemical and physical constitution of milks,
and that the milk of any animal may not be indifferently taken, in the belief
that being milk it is all one, whether it be yielded by a cow or a goat, an ass
or mare. As regards results, scarcely any of us live entirely without milk ;
either as a luxury or as a necessary of life, nearly all partake of it. But
there is a great host of little ones, to whom indeed it is a necessary of life,
to whom it is one of the very first conditions of existence, to whom it is
meat and drink. As the constitutional vigor and health of adults are largely
influenced by the conditions of their existence as children, it becomes import-
ant that children, who in their turn become men and women, should be reared
in the healthiest manner possible, so as to secure for them that vigor which,
in after life, is so essential to their own well-being and that of the community
of which they are members. We say advisedly that this cannot be done,
that is, good sound health cannot be secured without milk — good milk. And
this valuable article should be properly used if we would get from it all the
benefits it undoubtedly will afford if rightly used and treated. It is upon
204 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry.
this part of the subject I would particularly dwell : — the proper use and
management of milk as a diet for infants and children.
"It is hoped that it will not be requisite to insist upon scrupulous cleanliness
in the treatment of milk. Taint of any kind, and acidity, should be looked
upon as destroyers of its good properties. Milk, fresh, sweet and pure, is a
most wholesome diet ; putrefying, it is harmful.
" Before going further, it will, perhaps, be well very briefly to consider the
chief characteristics of woman's milk, and to compare them with cow's milk.
This will enable us to see the difference between the two ; and we shall then
be in a position to say how cow's milk may be made more nearly to resemble
human milk, and thus fitter for the consumption of children. Clearly this is
a matter of some importance. The chief thing to be borne in mind about
cow's milk is, that it is much richer in cheesy matter than mother's milk.
The value of this knowledge will be shown presently. It is also somewhat
richer in butter, and decidedly richer in salts. On the other hand, mother's
milk is richer in sugar. It may be said with some truth, that cow's milk is
" stronger " than mother's milk, for one pint of the former will contain more
solid matter than a like quantity of the latter. To bring cow's milk to a
condition resembling mother's milk, as regards the cheesy element, it is
necessary to dilute it with water (I much prefer lime water as a rule) in the
proportion of a third or a fourth of water, to two-thirds or three-fourths of
milk. But then the resulting mixture will not be rich enough in sugar and
fat, and to remedy this a little sugar of milk (which is now easily procurable)
and some cream should be added. Lump sugar should be very sparingly
used in the food of children ; it is much abused in this respect. Better not
use sugar at all than use too much. Sugar of milk should only be used to
the extent of slightly sweetening the prepared milk. To repeat, two-thirds
or three-fourths pure, new cow's milk mixed with a third or fourth of water
(the proportion may be varied according to the age, requirements or peculiari-
ties of the child ; very young children, for instance, often thriving best on half
and half), to every half pint of which two teaspoonsful to a tablespoonful of
fresh cream and a little sugar of milk are added, will form a fluid resembling,
as nearly as may be, mother's milk. If cream cannot be procured, a few
drops of sweet olive oil Avill be a good substitute. I make mention of this,
as I consider fat to be of the highest importance to children. Now, having
brought cow's milk into a condition as nearly as possible resembling mother's
milk as regards proportioii of ingredients, we may go a step further and
endeavor to improve it as regards the quality of one of its principal ingre-
dients, viz., the curd or cheesy element. The curd of cow's milk is much
denser and therefore far less digestible than that of mother's milk. This is
a fact of great practical importance. How can it best be obviated ? Before
stating this I would refer, en passant, to a matter upon which much ignorance
prevails. It is commonly believed that if a child brings up curdled milk it is
a sign that it does not agree with it. The truth is, that it would not agree
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 205
if it did not curdle after its reception into the stomach, for curdling by the
gastric juice (an acid fluid secreted by the stomach, and endowed with pecu-
liar properties) is one of the first and most important acts of digestion. The
vomiting may be wrong, but the curdling is not, for as just stated, the first
act in the digestion of milk is the coagulation of its curd. The curd formed
from mother's milk is very light and delicate ; it is feathery, or like snow
flakes, and thus permits of easier digestion. If a child fed upon cow's milk
vomits lumps of curd, there must be something wrong, but the bringing up
of a little curdled milk need not generally be taken as indicative of mischief.
How then can we bring the dense curd of cow's milk into the flocculent
condition observed in mother's milk ? My own observation and experience
lead me to believe that this can best be done by diluting the milk with lime-
water. Usually I advise the substitution of lime-water for the third or fourth
part of water alluded to, and I have witnessed the best results ensue upon
the adoption of this plan. If plain water be not wholly replaced by lime-
, water, I always direct that a portion of it shall be. I believe I have the
strongest grounds for this recommendation. In the first place, as already
stated, lime-water renders the curd of cow's milk lighter and more digestible ;
secondly, it helps to neutralize acidity, to which hand-fed children are espe-
cialy exposed ; thirdly, it helps children to form teeth, often backward and
fourthly, it is an excellent remedy against that bane of childhood, rickets, in
which too conimon disease there is, as is well known, a deficiency of lime in
the bony tissues, owing to defective assimilation of lime salts, the supply of
which, moreover, is frequently inadequate. Lime-water, then, is a valuable
addition to the milk diet of children, on several grounds. The addition of a
small quantity of well prepared baked or boiled flour ; Chapman's entire
wheat flour ; Liebig's food, or Robb's biscuit, may also tend to keep the curd
from clotting into large, hard masses, and in this way such articles may prove
useful ; but I am persuaded, that as a rule, nothing but milk diluted with
water, or lime-water, as directed, should be given to infants for the first six
months after their existence.
" There is a very strong reason why starchy matters, such as arrowroot,
etc., which can scarcely be called food, should not be given in eaiiy infancy.
It is this : for about the first three months of life, infants do not secrete
saliva, and unless starchy matters are mixed with saliva, they cannot contrib-
ute any nourishment to the body ; on the contrary they become active sources
of acidity. Farinaceous foods are, as a rule, more or less injurious on this
account, and milk is often unjustly stigmatized as bad, owing to the admix-
ture with it of some kind of starchy material, which is apt to excite intestinal
disturbance in young children. Milk should not be blamed when used under
such conditions ; to try it fairly it should be used as already pointed out.
Some children have an aversion to milk, and for them various diets may be
devised. It is not ray intention to speak of such diets here ; but I would
remark that children who take milk reluctantly, or with indifierence, may be
206 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
induced to take it more kindly by the addition of a very little pure cocoa or
chocolate. Much of the trash sold as cocoa consists of a compound contain-
ing starch, etc., and should accordingly be carefully avoided. Van Houten's
Schweitzer's or Cadbuey's, are excellent. Or a little flavoring by vanilla,
cinnamon, carraways, or a very fcAV drops of brandy or rum, will occasionally
render milk extremely palatable to children. All these require to be carefully
and sparingly used, especially the latter.
A word or two further may be said upon the treatment of milk. It
should never be boiled ; this renders it less digestible; indeed, it should not
be more than slightly warmed, and ought never to be kept long in that con-
dition, as fermentation is favored by warmth. It should never be exposed to
objectional efiluvia or odors. The feeding-bottles and appurtenances, and all
receptacles for milk, should be kept scrupulously clean ; the slightest acidity
from such sources tainting the whole fluid, and thus rendering it hurtful. It
need hardly be said that pure milk, the produce of healthy animals, should
alone be used. The milk of asses, when procurable, is excellent. Goat's
milk is useful, but is perhaps a little strong in curd, and may require to be
treated accordingly.
THE USE OF SKIMMED MILK AS AN EXCLUSIVB DIET IK DISEASE.
In regard to the value of milk as a curative agent in disease, the Medical
Times, Philadelpliia, has the following interesting statement from Dr. S. W.
Mitchell. He says :— " My design in this and the brief papers with which I
hope to follow it, is to give my own experience in the use of skimmed milk as an
alterative diet in certain cases of disease. After reading Carel's paper some
years ago, I began to employ this very useful method of treatment, and since
then have found repeated reason to congratulate myself upon the success
which, in my hands, it has attained whenever the cases for its use were
selected with discretion. In dealing with the subject I shall first make some
general remarks upon the mode of using milk and upon the effects observed
in nearly all cases. Next, I shall relate histories of its employment in gastric
disorders, in diarrhea, in malarious and renal dropsies, and finally in nervous
maladies. I hope to conclude with a study of the influence of the milk cure
upon the secretions and excretions. In following this path I shall in some
cases differ from Dr. Carel ; but in general my views will be found to corre-
spond with those held by this physician. The milk is to be used as free as
possible from cream ; and if, as is generally the case in our cities, there is an
abundance of ice to be had, I prefer to let the milk stand in a well-chilled
refrigerator for twenty-four hours. It should then be carefully skimmed,
after which it is fit for use. As Carel remarks, the quality of the milk goes
for something, and perhaps too the surroundings, since I have found persons
who could not bear the treatment in a city, while in the country they throve
under it admirably. As to temperature, it may be given warm, not hot or
cold, as suits the taste. In rare cases, where at first it caused nausea, I have
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 207
had to use it with more or less lime-water during the first few days. In
other instances the repugnance to its taste is a difficulty, and this may be
overcome by faintly flavoring it with a few drops of coffee or with caramel.
Other patients prefer to add to it a little salt ; but as a rule I desire to give
the milk alone as soon as possible.
" Quantity. — The patient takes, to begin with, one or two tablespoonsful
on rising, and every two hours during the day. When I followed Caeel's
rule of giving at once half-a-tumbler to a tumblerful (two to six ounces) four
times daily, I found that few patients would bear it without nausea and early
disgust. I increase each dose by a tablespoonful every day — say three the
second day and four the third day. Thus, if the patient begins at eight A.M.
he takes up to ten P.M. eight doses, that is to say about sixteen ounces. Now,
this is the lower limit ; nor have I been able in the cases of females or delicate
men to give it more largely at first. Indeed, few women of sickly or seden-
tary habits are able to exceed at any time a pint and a-half daily. After the
fourth day it is better to separate the doses as you increase their amount,
until they are taken at four equal intervals daily, and the maximum quantity
is attained. This varies greatly. I had one patient, a railroad contractor,
who, living an out-door life of the most active kind, took daily for more than
a year fourteen tumblers of skimmed milk, and this alone. Two quarts a day
is the limit with most of my patients. I suspect, from Caeel's account, the
Russian patients must have more hardy stomachs.
" Where people are well enough to live afoot I have had little difficulty in
the use of milk ; but in very feeble persons — and I have often given to such
— I have found it absolutely necessary to use with it for a few days, brandy
or whisky, and even beef soup, all of which I expect to abandon as soon as
the patient can take milk enough to sustain his strength. It is needless to
say that for a patient to take steadily a diet of skimmed milk alone, requires
the utmost fortitude and all the moral aid which the physician can give.
Carel thinks the first week the most difficult one, and this is usually the case;
but sometimes the whole period of milk use is one long struggle, even after
we begin to allow a partial use of other diet. It is not in these cases hunger,
but simply the craving for other food which tortures the patients. Most of
them avoid the sight of food in order to control their desires, and in one case
I was much amused by a gentleman who said to me in a guilty tone, ' Indeed
Doctor, but I could not help it ; I stole an egg this morning.'
" Dr. Carel begins to alter the diet of milk after two or three weeks.
I prefer to reach the latter limit before giving other food, but this, after all, is
a matter for separate decision in individual cases. My own rule, founded on
considerable experience, is this: Dating from the time when the patient
begins to take the milk alone, I wish three weeks to elapse before anything
be used save milk. After the first week of the period I direct that the milk
be taken in just as large amount as the person desires, but not allowing it to
fall helow a limit lohich for tne is determined in each case hy his ceasing to
208 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
lose weight. Twenty-one days of absolute milk diet having passed, with such
exception as I shall presently mention, I now give a thin slice of stale white
bread thrice a day. After another week I allow rice once a day — about two
tablespoonsful — or a little arrowroot, or both, as circumstances may dictate.
At the fifth week I give a chop once a day, and then in a day or two another
at breakfast ; and after the sixth -week I expect to return gradually to a diet
which should still consist largely of milk for some months. In children I
sometimes use raw in place of cooked meat for a time, but grown people will
rarely take it, although very often they are willing to take raw soup (Liebig's.)
THE SYMPTOMS DEVELOPED
under the use of milk are very interesting, and not all of them are told by
Cakel. In no case have I seen any one gain weight duriug the first few days ;
but where the treatment succeeds, the patient soon ceases to lose, and then
slowly gains in weight. This is usually the case in severe gastric and intes-
tinal cases ; but in some cases the loss of weight continues even after they
are taking an amount of milk usually sufiicient to sustain the body in an
equilibrium. This is remarkably the case in very fat persons, who, as every
one knows, are quite commonly small eaters. Taking three cases of dyspepsia
at random (all women) I find this record : The first lost in two weeks fourteen
pounds of a weight of one hundred and thirty-one ; the second lost eighteen
pounds of a weight of one hundred and twenty ; and the third eleven pounds
of a weight of one hundred and seventeen, her total weight at the start. In
another case where the quantity of milk taken was two quarts daily, and the
exercise small, the man lost weight steadily up to the time that I began to
give bread, when the gain was immediate and speedy (case diarrhea.) Mrs.
S., aged forty-seven, weight one hundred and ninety-four pounds, inactive,-
sallow, feeble, dyspeptic, and a very small eater, lost in four weeks thirty
pounds, with general gain in strength and vigor.
THE STATE OF THE SKIN
has seemed to improve in all cases of chronic, gastric, or intestinal disease, but
in others there has been no change. The urine, in a few cases is somewhat
annoying during the first week, the patient having frequent calls ; but com-
monly no such complaint is made, although in certain dropsies I have found
the milk to act strictly as a diuretic. The changes in the urine we shall
have occasion to study in future.
" The tongue is apt to become furred, and be white and rough two or
three weeks, — in some cases so long as milk is taken ; but so far is this from
representing a disturbed state of stomach, that the dyspeptic after a few days
usually finds himself in the enjoyment of an amount of digestive comfort
long a stranger to his viscera. The stools begin to show the milk tint— a
yellowish or salmon hue — after forty-eight hours, and when the milk disagrees
they are apt to be loose, while usually they are intensely tough and constipa-
ted. This feature of the use of skimmed milk is at times most obstinate and
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 209
annoying. After some weeks of creamless milk, I have often resorted, in
such cases, to unskimmed milk, and with good effect ; but it is quite clear
that even this, in adults, may constipate, as it never does in the child. Caeel
says that a little coffee in the morning is often sufficient to relieve the bowels ;
and where a small cup of pure coffee can be used, this is true. I give it
without sugar. Later in the treatment, fruit, fresh or stewed, may be used ;
but as a rule, I find that a little Saratoga water on rising, and a half grain of
aloes, with a grain of ginger at night, will answer ; or if these do not, then
an enema is required. In some cases, this symptom is simj)ly unconquerable
by any constant treatment, and twice it has forced me to abandon the milk.
In another case — a lady who undertook the milk cure unassisted — I was sent
for on account of violent rectal and sciatic pain which followed every effort
at defecation. She said she had a daily stool, which was true, but the amount
passed was trifling, and her rectum was packed, with feces so tough as utterly
to defy injections, until I had mechanically broken up the mass. The pulse
is usually quickened, until the milk diet is large enough to sustain the weight
unchanged, when it falls again. In certain cases of hypertrophied left ventri-
cle with palpitation of the heart, the immediate effect is to lower the pulse
and quiet the heart. The nervous system is not strikingly affected by milk.
I have once only, in a very stout and hysterical lady, seen vertigo and faint-
ness follow its use, and forbid its continuance ; but as a rule, it is in such
persons soothing alone. Caeel makes no mention of one symptom of which
many have spoken to me : this is an intense sleepiness. It is common, but
not universal, and soon passes away.
" In this brief sketch I have told plainly my own experience, and this I
shall illustrate by cases— only some few of which I shall relate in detail. In
no diseases has the value of milk-treatment been more clear than in certain
instances of stomachal disorders. It is needless to add that I have quoted
here only such instances as had proved rebellious to all ordinary methods.
Y. C, aged fourteen, a frail and pallid lad, employed as errand boy in a sugar
refinery, where he had contracted the habit of continually eating sugar.
After some weeks he began to have a sick stomach, and at length incessant
vomiting, for which a variety of treatment was employed, without relief
Finally it was found that he was able to keep .down small quantities of milk
diluted with equal parts' of lime-water. The amounts taken were still too
small to sustain life, and he wasted rapidly. At this time he fell under my
care, and was at once put upon an exclusive diet of skimmed milk, taking two
tablespoonsful every two hours. The vomiting ceased at once, and as the
milk was increased in amount and the interval lengthened, he began in a
week to gain weight. In two weeks he was doing well on a quart a day,
and on the twenty-first day he began to take bread. At the fourth week a
chop was added, and at the fifth week he went to the country. At this time
he was gaining weight and color. He felt none of the gastric distress after
the third day, but the sleepiness was well marked for two weeks. At the
14
210 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
second week a slight return of emesis obliged him to lessen the dose for a
few days. In him, as in most young people, the constipation was readily
overcome by a rhubarb pill at bed time.
" Miss C, aged fifty-two. Has had for a year, attacks of violent pain,
which are referred to the pit of the stomach, or rarely lower. They had no
relation to her meals, but were easily brought on by fatigue. The natural
ending of these spells seemed to be in slight emesis, and for a long time the
very least vomiting gave instant relief, which however ceased to be the case
after a year, when the attacks had become as frequent as two to four a week.
The most careful research discovered no gall stones in the stools, and only
once was there bile in the urine. The matter vomited was rarely the food,
but only thin mucus, not acid, and containing no sarcinae or other substance
which cast any light on the case. Alkalies, tonics — for she was very pale
and feeble — stimulants, acids, pepsin, arsenic, and bismuth, were used in vain.
Hypodermic injections, and opiates internally, alike failed. In this therapeu-
tic despair — even change of air having produced no good result — I advised
the use of milk treatment ; and as her case illustrates alike the value and the
difficulties of this plan of diet, I conceive it to be very instructive. At this
time her attacks were of almost daily occurence. The milk was given
cautiously — a tablespoonful eyery two hours — for two days, when it was
doubled. On the fourth day she took four tablespoonsful at each dose, and
at the same intervals, but was manifestly not losing weight, although weak.
A little whisky added thrice a day bridged over this trouble, and was aban-
doned on the seventh day. Up to this time she had no attack, nor had she
any up to the beginning of the fourth week, when the milk was given up.
The reason for this was twofold. Her disgust at the diet was unconquerable ;
nor was I able by slight changes to secure good continued results. More
complete alteration of diet brought back the attacks. I yet believe that these
difficulties might have been overcome, but in her the milk caused a constipa-
tion so invincible that not even the most powerful purgatives or enemas
were of any avail. Needless to say that, from the promise of so much good
from milk, no means were left unused to enable her to take it, but all alike
failed us, and I was forced in this case to confess myself beaten. Mechanical
means were finally needed every few days to break up the tough rectal
accumulations, and so the milk was given up. The case was probably gas-
trodynia.
" Somewhat like it in certain respects, was the history of a man who was
sent to me from Elkton, Maryland, by my friend Dr. Ellis. About nine
months before I saw him he began to have increasingly severe attacks of
pain, which came pn an hour or two after meals, and lasted nearly up to the
next meal. The pain was sharp and was referred to the epigastric region and
to the left side below the ribs. There was a good deal of wind, occasional
acid stomach, and no tenderness anywhere ; bowels regular, urine high-colored,
but free from albumen and depositing urates abundantly. He had been
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 211
skillfully treated with a variety of drugs, but with no relief. On explaining
to him the milk-diet, he professed himself able to carry it out. About two
months later he returned to show himself, when I learned that he had lived
on milk alone during the whole of this time, with immediate, enduring and
absolute relief from all his pains. He was then directed how to return to
his usual diet. Several months afterwards I learned that he was still living
partly on milk, and. was well and vigorous.
"Mrs. B., widow, aged thirty-three, had for yet^rs suffered from constant
acid dysjsepsia, for which she had been treated by several physicians, both at
home and abroad. Her only relief consisted in the most careful choice of a
minimum amount of food, and in the constant use of bismuth. She weighed
one hundred and eighteen pounds and was sallow and disfigured by an ecze-
matous eruption. During the first day of the milk cure she only took one
tablespoonful every two hours, and after this it Avas increased as I have
described. In a week she was taking a little under a quart daily, and her
weight was down to one hundred and fourteen pounds. A little whisky was
now added, and left off at the fifteenth day, when she was taking over two
quarts of milk. The weight continued nearly up to the end of the third
week, when she declared that even the perfect ease obtained as eai'ly as the
third day of the treatment was scarcely a compensation for the horrors of this
exclusive diet. A little persuasion, however, enabled me to continue its use
another week, when I began to give stale bread, and in a few days later
venison. Her gain in weight from this time was strangely rapid, and five
weeks and a-half after we began, the milk brought her up to one hundred and
twenty-nine pounds, with a perfectly clear and spotless skin. The aloes pill
and enema answered throughout to control her bowels. It is now nearly a
year since this time, but despite her final abandonment of milk she retains
alike her good looks and comfort in digestion, having had in this time only
one relapse which yielded to a brief return to the diet. I was very much
struck in another case, with the same remarkable improvement in the clear-
ness and beauty of the skin which I have just mentioned.
" Miss L., a young lady aged twenty, of remarkable personal attractions,
was seized with a violent attack of inflammation of the ileo-cascal region, with
the common accompaniments of intense pain, swelling, tenderness and fecal
accumulation, with violent vomiting. After a week or ten days the bowels
were moved and the attack subsided. The experience of several such illnesses
finally taught me that the local use of ice over the diseased region, chloral
internally, and no purgatives for a week, gave the best and shortest curative
result ; but by this time the attacks recurred so easily and her general health
had so suffered as to make some permanent relief imperative. At this period
all the usual alteratives had failed to effect this end, and she was wasted,
thin, and excessively sallow, with dark stains beneath the eyes. During three
weeks only she took the milk, and I was then obliged by her urgency to add
a chop daily. The effect of this diet was both to me and to her friends
212 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
astonishing, in the sudden gain of weight, and in the return of clear and
delicate skin tints. No less marked were the ease of digestion, previously
much impaired, and the total disappearance of the hardening about the
ascending colon. The bowels, somewhat to my surprise, were easily managed
by a little rlmbarb twice a day. In this case I did not hope for permanent
relief save by six months of milk treatment. So soon, however, as she felt
well I found it impossible to secure a continuance of its use, so that after
some months I was not surprised to see her in a new attack. The case has
value chiefly as showing that, with a tendency to a constipative disease, milk
may still be used, and is illustrative of the profound change which milk some-
times effects in the nutritive system. The above cases, selected for various
reasons, are merely representative of difficulties or successes, and it would be
quite possible for me to multiply either class. Suffice it to say that in old and
unmanageable cases of dyspepsia, and in neuralgic disorders related to the
gastro-intestinal viscera, the treatment by milk has been sometimes a reliable
resource when without it I must have been in therapeutic despair."
ASSOCIATED DAIRimG-ITS RISE, PROCxRESS, &;C.
I HATE said that the dairy has become an important branch of national
industry, that it is rapidly spreading over new fields, and is engaging the
attention of farmers in the western, northwestern and middle States, wherever
the lands are adapted to grazing, and there are springs and streams of living
water. It is true, there are extensive plains at the south and southwest
where the business of dairying cannot be carried on, but broad belts and
isolated patches of land are scattered over our vast domain, well adapted
to grazing, and such lands, when taken in the aggregate, cover a wide extent
of territory.
There are two causes that have been operating the past few years to
stimulate the development of this branch of industry, and have brought it to
assume proportions that give it a distinctive feature of nationality. The first
is a lai'ge and increasing foreign demand for dairy products ; the second is the
American system of "Associated Dairies," now brought to such wonderful
perfection that the business can be readily introduced into new sections with
all the ease and certainty of success in producing the qualities attained in old
dairy districts.
The foreign demand for cheese, it is believed, will be permanent, and
exportations from year to year must largely increase, since the finest Ameri-
can grades are acknowledged to be equal to the best manufactured abroad.
This fact alone gives confidence to those about entering upon the business of
dairy farming — that it will be remunerative and enduring.
In addition, as the texture and flaA^or of cheese have been improved, a
large home demand has sprung up, which requires large quantities to meet its
wants. It is believed by many that the home demand, for years to come,
will more than keep pace with increased production ; and home sales for the
past few years would seem to prove that this view is not without foundation.
With a constantly increasing home trade and a reliable market abroad, no
branch of fai'ming to-day oflTers prospects of better or more permanent
remuneration than the dairy,
COMMElSrCEMElirT OF CHEESE DAIEYING AS A SPECIALTY ITS HISTORY, ETC.
The history of Ameincan Cheese Dairying has never been written, and
perhaps a brief glance at its rise and progress will not be out of place.
214 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Cheese making began in Herkimer county, New York, more than sixty
years ago. For upwai-ds of twenty years its progress was slow, and the
business was deemed hazardous by the majority of farmers, who believed
that over-production was to be the result of those making a venture upon
this specialty. The fact, however, gradually became apparent that the cheese
makers were rapidly bettering their condition, and outstripping in wealth
those who were engaged in grain raising and a mixed husbandry.
About the year 1830 dairying became pretty general in the towns of Herki-
mer county north of the Mohawk, and some years later spread through the
southern district of the county, gradually extending into Oneida and adjoin-
ing counties. Up to this period and for several years later, little or no cheese
was shipped to Europe. It was not considered fit for market till fall or
winter. It was packed in rough casks and peddled in the home market at
from five to eight cents per pound. All the operations of the dairy were
rude and undeveloped ; the herds were milked in the open yard ; the curds
were worked in tubs and pressed in log presses. Everything was done by
guess, and there was no order, no system and no science in conducting opera-
tions.
In 1840 the value of the dairy products of NewTork — butter, cheese and
milk — was estimated by the United States census returns at $10,496,021, and
in all the States at $33,787,008. Some idea of the comparative increase will
be found when it is known that the value of the butter products of New York
alone, in 1865, was more than $60,000,000. From 1840 to 1850 cheese began
to be shipped abroad, the first shipments being inaugurated under the auspices
of Herkimer county dealers.
In 1848 — '49 the exports of American cheese to Great Britain were
15,386,836 pounds. Much of the cheese manufactured this year was of poor
quality, and British shippers claimed to have sustained heavy losses. There
was a more moderate demand the following year, and prices fell off a penny
a pound, varying from fair to strictly j^rime, from six to six and a-quarter
cents for Ohio, and six to six and three-quarters for New York State. The
exports in 1849 — '50 were 12,000,000 pounds, and continued to vary, without
important increase, for several years. From September, 1858, to September,
1859, the exports of cheese to Great Britain and Ireland were only two
thousand five hundred and ninety-nine tons, and in the following year, for
the same corresponding period, they were increased to seven thousand five
hundred and forty-two tons.
During the early part of the year 1860, Samuel Peket of New York
city, a native of Herkimer, and one of the earliest operators in the cheese
trade, endeavored to control the market, purchasing the great bulk of cheese
manufactured in the coimtry. He was reputed to be wealthy, and had for
years enjoyed the confidence of dairymen, and being liberal in his dealings he
was enabled to secure the dairies by contract, making his purchases at from
nine to ten cents per pound. Then commenced the exportation of American
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 215
cheese on a scale hitlierto unknown in the history of the trade ; and to him
belongs the credit of opening up a foreign market for this " class of goods."
The exportation of cheese from New York to Europe during 1860 was
23,252,000 pounds, which Avas increased on the following year to 40,041,000
pounds.
About this time (1860) the associated dairy system began to attract
attention. Several factories were in operation in Oneida county, and were
turning out a superior article of cheese. The system had been first inaugiirated
by Jesse Williams, a farmer living near Rome, in that county, and was
suggested from mere accidental circumstances. Mr. Williams was an expe-
rienced and skillful cheese-maker, and at a time when the bulk of American
cheese was poor. His dairy, therefore, enjoyed a high reputation, and was
eagerly sought for by dealers. In the spring of 1851 one of his sons having
married, entered upon farming on his own account, and the father contracted
the cheese made on both farms at seven cents per pound, a figure considerably
higher than was being offered for other dairies in that vicinity. When the
contract was made known to the son he expressed great doubt as to whether
he should be able to manufacture the character of cheese that would be
acceptable under the contract. He had never taken charge of the manufac-
ture of cheese while at home, and never having given the subject that close
attention which it necessarily requires, he felt that his success in coming up
to the required standard would be a mere matter of chance. His father
therefore proposed coming daily upon the farm and giving the cheese-making
a portion of his immediate supervision. But this would be very inconvenient,
and while devising the means to meet the difficulties and secure the benefits
of the contract, which was inore than ordinarily good, the idea was suggested
that the son should deliver the milk from his herd daily at the father's milk-
house. From this thought sprang the idea of uniting the milk from several
neighboring dairies and manufacturing it at one place. Buildings were
speedily erected and fitted up with apparatus, which, proving a success, thus
gave birth to the associated system of dairying now widely extended through-
out the Northern States.
The system of associated dairies, during the last eight years, has been
carried into the New England States and into the Canadas. It is largely
adopted in Ohio, and has obtained a foothold in Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa,
Kansas, and other States. It is known abroad as the " American System of
Dairying," and its peculiarities are so well adapted to the genius of our people
as to give it a distinctive character of nationality.
PROGRESS OF THE EACTOKY SYSTEM IN" THE STATE OF KEW YORK, AND
CAPITAL INVESTED IN THE BUSINESS UP TO 1866.
The number of cheese factories in the State of New York at the com-
mencement of the season of 1866, was more than five hundred. The following
table will show the number of factories erected in the State each year from
1850 to 1866:
216
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
These five hundred factories would probably average four hundred cows
each, making a total of two hundred thousand cows, which, at the low cash
value of $40 each, give an aggregate of $8,000,000. The lands employed in
associated dairying in New York in 1866 would not be less than a million of
acres, which, at an average of $40 an acre, would amount to 140,000,000.
NO. OF
FAC-
TORIES.
COST OF
BUILDINGS
AND
APPARATUS.
PERSONS EMPLOYED.
AVERAGE
NO. OF
COWS.
FOUNDS OF MILK
USED.
POUNDS OT
MAiES.
FEMALES.
CHEESE
MADE.
Allegany
Broome
Cattaraugus
6
1
3
1
11
3
19
8
7
1
2
31
78
32
2
34
9
1
80
4
20
21
35
4
1
2
2
2
5
$17,000
3,000
8,000
3,500
43,720
1,800
54,556
36,354
18,925
3,500
8,500
79,975
76,858
52,546
1,200
72,100
33,500
225
156,084
12,200
57,583
40,100
44,500
9,000
175
1,050
7,200
5,580
14,200
9
1
6
1
27
5
31
19
13
2
3
57
101
55
4
55
17
3
135
5
54
31
40
6
3
4
5
3
10
11
2
7
2
24
4
41
26
22
5
4
63
77
63
2
74
19
2
178
6
26
38
47
9
2
""ii""
5
11
1,395
500
1,474
270
3,003
107
6,505
5,000
2,248
1,000
800
11,499
14,088
12,084
68
11,635
3,250
36
27,146
825
5,837
6,815
7,055
1,375
31
235
1,550
450
2,245
1,006,445
643,510
192,730
837,550
6,423,689
764,850
17,917,494
13,714,985
4,128,380
2,648,657
104,374
74,000
Cayuga
Chautauqua
Chemung
Chenango
Cortland
Erie
82,216
625,382
25,075
1,879,368
1,406,157
435,774
264,865
Essex
Fulton
Herkimer
JeflFerson
Lewis
32,157,583
32,618,713
33,531,746
""'33,037,456'
5,747,902
3,092,268
3,357,546
3,171,721
Livingston
Madison
Monlgomery . ..
Niagara
Oneida
Onondaga
Orange
Oswego , .
Otsego
19,900
3,420,057
474,622
9 606
70,414,328
2,631,304
9,962,949
13,450,857
15.455,437
2,348,322
8,107,018
1,272,633
724,854
1,386,005
1,559,591
St. Lawrence. ..
322,615
10,372
4,500
340,260
46,229
446,011
Tompkins
Washington
Wyoming
3,237,512
461,696
4,343,153
Total
425
$862,931
705
781
128,526
307,677,242
32,663,014
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 217
We give the preceding tahle, collected from official sources, showing the
amount of capital invested in factory buildings, the number of hands
employed at the factories, average number of cows delivering milk, pounds
of milk, and pounds of cheese made during the season of 1864, at four
hundred and twenty-five factories. The summary is made by counties.
From the foregoing statistics it would not be practicable to deduce general
results to show the relative products and profits of manufacturing in the
several counties, since some of the factories were in operation only part of
the season. A better estimate can be made from the following statistics,
gathered from the New York State census returns, showing the operations
of one hundred and thirty-three factories selected from the whole number,
and working through the season of 1864. The tables were made up and
published in the New York Tribune soon after the returns were completed,
and for convenient reference the factories are numbered from one to one
hundred and thirty-three, inclusive :
218
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Table sbowin"; tlie capital invested in buildings, persons emploj^ed in mnnufncturing, num-
ber of cows, season of beginning and closing operations, pounds of milk and pounds
of cbeese, at one bundred and lliirty-tbree different factories in various parts of tbe
State of New York, for tlie year 1864:
I
Persons em-
_
Q
ployed
is
a
O
n
b
Q ^
«
2
3
A
<
<
(«!5Sri!555sv two ounces of =
^
XI
salt to twenty. ^"^^^ <^"™^^ ^^'^■
two pounds of butter. In making winter
butter a little more salt is added at the last
working. The butter, after having been
salted and worked, is allowed to stand till
Chfrn Dashees. evening, and is then worked a second time
and packed in sixty pound pails and shipped twice a week to New York.
At this factory in hot weather, after the butter is salted and worked over,
250
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
it is taken to the spring and immersed in the water where it remains until
evening when it is taken out and worked over and packed. For winter butter
a small teaspoonful of pulverized saltpetre and a large tablespoonful of white
sugar are added for the twenty-two pounds of butter at the last working.
No coloring matter is used in butter at this establishment.
The butter is worked on an inclined slab with beveled sides running down
to the lower end and within four inches of each other. A long wooden lever,
so formed as to fit in a socket at this point, is used for working the butter.
It is very simple and does the Avork effectually. In churning, the dashers are
so arranged as to go within a quarter of an inch of the bottom of the churn
at every stroke, and rise above the cream in their upward stroke.
When butter is packed in firkins, none but those made of white oak are
used. These firkins are very handsomely made, and are tight so as not to
allow the least leakage. Before using they are soaked in cold water, and
The Butteb Bowl and Ladle.
after that in hot water, and then again with cold water. After being filled
with butter they are headed up and strong brine poured in at the top to fill
all the intervening spaces. The pails for holding the milk in the springs are
daily cleaned with soap and hot water, rinsed in spring water, and put on a
rack to dry. In furnishing a factory two pails are allowed for each cow, as
it is necessary to have a double set.
THE CHEESE.
In making the cheese, the milk is set at eighty-two degrees ; highest heat,
ninety-six degrees to ninety-eight degrees, and three pounds of salt to one
hundred of curd. The curd is pressed in fourteen inch hoops, and cheese
made four inches high. They are of a very good flavor, and by no means
unpalatable — though of course, inferior to pure milk cheese. These cheeses are
shipped to warm climates, and many of them go to China in exchange for tea.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
251
OKANGE COUNTY MILK ASSOCIATION.
This establishment commenced operations in 1862. The main building
is sixty feet by twenty-four feet, and is located about four miles northeast from
Middletown. The number of cows from which milk is delivered is five
hundred and fifty, and the farmers owning the building number thirty. The
construction of the building and spring house is similar to that of the Wall-
kill Association. There are two spring rooms, each ten by twenty-four feet.
The water here is soft, aud stands at a temperature of fifty degrees.
The factory stands near or adjoining a wet and springy piece of ground,
covered with fragments of rock from the Shawangunk Mountains. At this
VAT
GEOtTND Plan op Orange County Milk Associatioit Bctteb Factobt,
establishment, in addition to the spring room there is a cellar twelve feet
by fourteen feet, with walls nicely laid up with stone, and extending into the
bank, at the rear end of the building. Here the butter is stored in summer as
soon as packed, where it remains until ready to be shipped.
In the fall of the year, when cream does not readily sour, it is put in the
churn in the evening and a can of water raised to 100° set in the cream. It
is left there over night, and by morning the cream sours.
EOCKVILLE MILK ASSOCIATION.
The main structure is twenty-five by fifty feet — two stories, which are used
for manufacturing and curing cheese — adjoining this on one end, is the spring
room, and on the side running back in the shape of L, is the churn room,
twenty by thirty feet. On the end of the churn room is the ice house, which
is arranged so as to lead out of the churn room with a broad hall or alley,
which serves as a cellar for storing butter.
252
Practical Dairy Husbanbry.
This hall has double sides packed in with tan-bark, and the ice-house being
on one side, with communication by door, makes it a cool and nice place for
keeping butter or cream in summer. In the spring room there are two A'ats,
one nine feet by twelve feet, and the other eight feet by twelve feet, sunk
even with the floor, and arranged so as to be filled from one spring. The
temperature of the water is 48®. It is soft water, but less so than those at
the other factories to which we have referred. The delivery of the milk is at a
window and on a platform the liight of the wagon. As the teams drive up, the
cans are slid upon the platform and emptied into a large receiving box or can of
tin inside the window, standing upon platform
scales, where the milk is weighed and then
conducted out by two faucets into the long
tin pails or coolers. The cost of structure
and fixtures was $3,000. The number of
cows from which milk is delivered is four
hundred and twenty-five, and on November
1st the receipts were eighteen hundred quarts
— estimating a quart, wine measure, to weigh
^ 5 two pounds. Milk varies in weight, and a
^ ^ M wine quart weighs at some seasons of the
^ 30 year, a trifle over two pounds. During the
• I OO A
>^3
Ground Plan of Rockvillb Butter Factory.
month of May, when cows are in pasture, Mr. Slaughter finds that one
hundred quarts, wine measure, will weigh two hundred and eleven pounds.
The milk here is kept in the spring from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, when
the cream is taken off" and alloAved to sour, and then churned. Mr. Upte-
GROVE, the Superintendent of the factory, says that about one-tenth more
butter is obtained from the cream when churned sour than when sweet.
BUTTER MAKING AT THE ORANGE COUNTY FACTORY.
The churns are the barrel and a-half dash churn, and are filled about half
full of cream, which is diluted by putting in cold Avater in summer and warm
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
253
water in cold weather, at the rate of sixteen to thirty quarts for each mess or
churning. The temperature of the cream in summer, when the churns are
started is about 60°, but in cold weather they are started at about 64°.
When a mess of cream is to be churned the churns are filled about half full,
and a pail of spring Avater added to dilute the cream ; in warm weather cold
water is used and in cold weather warm water, so as to make the mass at a
temperature of 60° to 62°. The temperature of the cream while churning is
kept below 65 °, for if at the close of the churning the buttermilk should be at
a temperature above 64° the flavor and color of the butter are injured. When
the butter begins to come, the churn is rinsed down with cold water. After
the butter is taken from the churn, care is taken not to touch it more than is
necessary with the hands. The butter trays are elliptical in shape, and the
ladle is used for turning over the butter while it is being washed. In salting
and working over, the whole is done by the buiter-worker heretofore
described, and great care is taken not to work it too much, as overworking
spoils the grain and makes the butter salvy, A twenty-two pound batch is
laid upon the inclined slab or butter-worker, and the lever applied, first
beginning at one side, until the whole is gone over. Only a few manipula-
tions of this kind are required, and one is surprised at the expedition with
which this part of the process is efiected. The salting and working of the
butter is by the same rule adopted at the other factories, eighteen ounces of
salt being used for twenty-two pounds of butter.
The butter-worker is similar to the one alluded to, except that the lever
is diamond-shaped, which it is claimed is an improvement. The inclined
triangular slab on which the butter is
worked stands upon legs, and has beveled
sides about three inches high. It is four
feet long and twenty-five inches wide at
the upper end, tapering down to five
inches at the lower end. At this point
there is an opening for the escape of the
butter-milk into a pail below. In salting,
the butter is washed and then spread out Avith the ladle upon the worker, and
fine, pure Ashton salt sprinkled over the mass. It is then turned over a little
with the ladle and afterwards worked with the lever.
At this factory there was a little contrivance consisting of a wheel and
lever and weight" for regulating the stroke of the dashers when churning.
The trays are elliptical, being two and a-half feet long and one and a-half feet
across, and will hold twenty-five pounds of butter. The butter is packed in
Orange county pails or tubs holding sixty pounds, or in oak firkins of eighty
pounds, as at the other factories, and shipped twice a week to New York,
bringing seventy cents per pound. The association is composed of twenty-
eight farmers who have dairies running from five to ten and up to thirty cows.
Obanse county Butter- Wobkek.
254
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Four farmers not belonging to the association deliver milk here and are
charged $1.50 per cow extra.
Return Butter Pail.
FiBKm.
Orange County Butter Packages.
Half FmKiN.
DAIRY PRODUCTS OF THE UNITED STATES.
The following tables give the number of pounds of butter and cheese
made in different sections of the Union, according to the census returns of
1850 and 1860. The total production of butter in the United States and
Territories in 1850 was 313,345,306 pounds, and in 1860, 469,681,372 pounds.
Of cheese, the product in 1850 was 105,535,893, pounds, and in 1860, 103,-
663,927 pounds, showing an increase in the production of butter, and a
decrease in cheese during that decade. From the tables it will be seen which
States are largely interested in this branch of industry. For convenience of
reference we have arranged the States in groups :
Amount of Butler and Clieese made in 1860 and 1850.
1860.
1850.
I860.
NEW ENGLAND STATES,
Connecticut,
Maine,
Massachusetts,
New Hampshire,
Rhode Island,
Vermont,.. . . ,
Total,
MIDDLE STATES.
New York,
Pennsylvania,
New Jersey,
Delaware,
Maryland,
District of Columbia, ." ."
Total,
7,620,912
11,687,781
8,297,936
6,956,764
10,211,767
15,900,359
,498,119
243,811
,071,370
,977,056
995,670
137,980
60,675,519
52,924,006
103,097.280
58,653,511
10,714.447
1,430.502
5,265,295
18,835
79,766,094
39,878.418
9,487,210
1,055,308
3,806,160
14,872
179,179,870
134,008,062
3,898,411
1.799,862
5,294,090
2,232,092
181,511
8,215,030
5,363,277
2,434.454
7,088,142
3,196,563
316,508
8,720,834
21,620,996
27,119,778
48,548,289
2,508,556
182,172
6,579
8,342
51,253,938
49,741,413
2,505,034
365,756
3,187
3,975
1,500
52,620,865
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 255
Amount uf l)\ilter aud cheese made in 1860 and 1850. — Continued.
18G0.
1850.
1860.
1850.
WESTERN STATES.
Indiana
Illinois,
Iowa,
Michigan,
Minnesota,
Missouri,
Ohio,
Kentucky,
Wisconsin,
Kansas,
Nebraslca,
Total,
SOUTHERN STATES.
Alabama,
Arkansas,
Florida,
Georgia,
Mississippi,
Louisiana,
North Carolina,
South Carolina,
Tennessee,
Texas,
Virginia,
Total,
PACIFIC STATES AND TERRITORIES,
CaliTornia,
Oregon,
New Mexico,
Wasiiington,
Utah,
Total
18,306
28,052
11.958
15,503
2,957
12,704
48,543
11,716
13,611
1,093
343
,651
,551
,666
,482
,673
837
,162
,609
,328
,497
541
164,786,997
6,028,478
4,067,556
408,855
5,439,765
5,006,610
1,444,743
4,735,495
3,777,934
10,017,787
5,850,583
13,464,722
60,242,258
3,095,035
1,000,157
13,259
153,092
316,046
4,577,589
12,881,535
12,526,543
2,171,188
7,065,878
1,100
7,834,359
34,449,379
9,947,523
3,633,750
90,511,255
4,008,811
1,854,239
371,498
4,640,599
4,346,234
683,069
4,746,290
2,981,850
8,139,583
2,344,900
11,089,359
45,206,392
705
211,464
111
83,309
295,589
605,795
1,848,557
918.635
1,641,897
199,314
259,633
21,618,893
190,400
1,104,300
29,045
12,342
28,428,811
15,923
16,810
5,280
15,587
4,427
6,153
51,119
1,543
133,575
275,128
280,852
808,397
1,343,689
105,379
37,240
12,146
53,331
1,551,785
624,564
1,278,225
209,840
1,011,493
203,572
20,819,542
213,954
400,283
24,761,472
31,412
30,088
18,015
46,976
21,191
1,957
95,921
4,970
177,681
95,299
436,292
959,802
150
36,980
5,848
30,998
73,976
We have not the exact figures on hand for giving the statistics of butter
and cheese made in the Union during the year 1865, but the production of
cheese in the middle and western States alone, it is believed, was more than
two hundred millions of pounds. From facts gathered by the American
Dairymen's Association, it is known that there are now upward of a thousand
cheese factories in operation throughout the United States. If the number
of cows to each be estimated at five hundred, we have half a million cows
employed in the associated dairies, and if the average annual yield per cow
be put at three hundred pounds, we have in the aggregate one hundred and
fifty million pounds. But there are a large number of private or family
dairies in operation, especially in the eastern or middle States, the production
256
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
of which, it is believed, will more than make up the estimated annual product
of cheese for 1865 to two hundred million pounds.
If the value of the cheese product of 1865 be put on an average of fifteen M
cents per pound, it shows a total of $30,000,000, while the butter product, if .■
no larger than that of 1860, at the low price of twenty-five cents per pound,
would amount to over $114,000,000. In the estimate of the cheese product
it will be proper to remark that the quantity is presumed to be the amount
sold, and does not include that consumed in the families of producers.
EXPORTS OF CHEESE AIS'D BUTTER.
The statistics of trade show that the dairy products of the country are
becoming an important branch of commerce. The following table gives the
quantity of butter and cheese exported from New York for a series of years :
LBS. OF BUTTER.
LBS. OP CHEESE.
1858
5,098,000
9,287,000
23 252 000
1859
2,494,000
10,987,000
21,865,000
29,241.000
23,060;793
14,174,861
22,000,000
5,000,000
I860
1861
40 041 000
1863
38,722,000
40.781,168
46 755 842
1863
1864
1865
47 101 000
1866
45 000 000
1867
58 000 000
The decrease in the cheese exjDorts of 1865 from those of the year previous,
resulted from an extraordinary home demand, which took large quantities of
cheese at a price in advance of what shippers felt warranted to pay for it to
export. The shipments abroad have been mostly to Great Britain. A light
exportation for a number of years has been kept up with the West Indies and
with South America, the trade with the latter being for the most part in a
a poorer grade of cheese made from skimmed milk. Recently this chai'acter
of cheese has found a favorite reception in China, where parcels have been
sent in exchange for tea. It is believed there is a wide range of market yet
unopened for the disposal of American cheese, needing only a little enterprise
on the part of dealers for its introduction ; and that when once introduced, it
. will increase steadily until a heavy foreign demand is reached. Great Britain
alone can now take considerably more than our surplus, and since the qualities
and adaptation of styles to her needs meets, year by year, greater favoi-, the
time cannot be far distant when America will be regarded, if she be not
already, the great cheese-producing country of the world.
ENGLISH AND AMERICAN DAIRYING THEIR POINTS OF DIFFERENCE AND
COMPARATIVE MERITS.
Associated dairying is now conducted on so large a scale, and has so
wide a range in America, as to give it distinctive features of nationality.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 257
European writers have asserted that this system was inaugurated in Switzer-
land, and that America simply borrowed the idea, putting it into successful
operation, and therefore is not entitled to any mei'it as to its originality.
Without stopping to point out the great dissimilarity between the associated
dairy management of Switzerland and that of America, the truth of history
demands the statement, that whatever excellence may attach to the American
system, nothing in it has been borrowed from abroad. In the report of the
Department of Agriculture for 1865 I gave a brief account of the origin of
the cheese factory movement. Having been familiar with its early history,
with the men and causes that led the way to this improvement in dairy prac-
tice, I feel competent to speak authoritatively on the subject, and claim its
originality as wholly American.
The American factory system now stands pre-eminently in advance of
dairy practice in the Old World. By it a more uniform and better product
of cheese and butter can be made. These must soon take the lead in Euro-
pean markets, and European nations will adopt the system or be content to
see their own products rank as secondary, and sold at inferior prices. Since
the adoption of the factory system a large export trade has grown up between
America and Great Britain. The value of American cheese now sent abroad
is from seven to ten millions of dollars annually, and as factories improve in
the quality of their manufacture, a much larger trade, it is believed, will be
inaugurated.
England is old in dairy husbandry, and always claimed superiority in dairy
practice. A great many styles of cheese are manufactured, and some of them
sell in their pi'incipal markets at better prices than that made at our factories.
American dairymen, previous to 1866 had never been able to find out wherein
this superiority lay. In view of the large trade already existing, and likely
to increase, it was deemed important that a better knowledge of English
dairy husbandry and cheese-making be obtained. The American Dairy Asso-
ciation, therefore, engaged the writer to go abroad for this purpose, and the
following pages are briefly the result of observations over the dairy districts
of Great Britain during the summer of 1866. The dairy lands of Great
Britain, it is believed, are no better than in the best dairy districts of America.
Pastures, there, it is true, will generally carry more stock than ours, because
theirs are freer from weeds and better managed. The yield of hay from per-
manent meadows is no larger than from our best lands, two tons per acre
being considered a good crop, but theirs is composed of a greater variety
of grasses, is finer, and doubtless more nutritious than ours on account of less
waste in woody fiber. Their dairy stock is generally no better than in our
first-class dairies. I think there is no county in England or Scotland where the
average yield of cheese per cow is so large as in Herkimer county, New York.
In the management of farms they are generally far in advance of us, but
in cheese-making their appliances are inferior, their work more laborious, and
they have but really one style of cheese that competes with the best grades
17
I
258 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
of our factory make. This is the cheddar, of which the leading features in
manufacture will be found under its appropriate head. In the cheddar process
as well as in the management of stock of milk and dairy farms, there are
doubtless suggestions which will be adopted in our practice when their supe-
riority is demonstrated. I have endeavored to call attention to the fact, and
to state the point clearly.
THE CHEESE DISTEICTS OP ENGLAND.
The cheese districts of England are grouped together in counties lying
contiguous. Thus in the south are found Gloucester, Somerset, Wilts,
Dorset, &c., while in the north there are Cheshire, Lancashire, Derbyshire,
Leicestershire and Shropshire. Other counties produce cheese in limited
quantities, but not to such an extent as to make it a leading business. I wentj
into the southern districts first, and found three styles of cheese, each having'
a diiferent shape and character, and differently manufactured. They were the
Cheddar, the double and single Gloucester, and the Wilts.
I had never seen any large tract of country so beautiful as this part of]
England. It was in June, when the hedges were covered with dark greenl
foliage, the pastures flecked with the daisy and butter-cup, flowers celebrated
by the poets. But the English daisy is not to be confounded with that pest
of our fields, the ox-eye daisy, for it is small and unpretending, and does not
suck up the life of the land. Then the smooth roads, the villas, the farm-j
houses, and the hamlets, with their adornments, together with the garden-likef]
cultivation of the land, formed a picture ever to be remembered. For quiet,!
pastoral scenery, England is surpassingly beautiful. Everything seems to be
" picked up " and in place. You see no tumble-down fences, no unsightly
stone heaps, disfiguring the land, no cheap wooden houses falling to pieces,|
no remains of wood-piles and other accumulated trash, like a cancer blotching*
the premises, but everything seems to be swept up and in order, or, to use a
homely phrase, " prepared for company." M
SOMEESET AND ITS SYSTEM OF EAEMING.
Somerset has a rolling, undulating surface, and it is in this county that the
famous Cheddar cheese originated. In form the county is difficult to describe,
perhaps partaking more of an oblong figure than any other. According to
recent returns of live stock, &c., its area is one million seventy-four thou-
sand two hundred and twenty acres, containing four hundred and forty-
four thousand eight hundred and seventy-three inhabitants ; eighty-four
thousand two hundred and sixty-two cows ; eighty-nine thousand two hundred
and fifty-seven young stock ; six hundred and thirty-six thousand nine hundred
and seventy-five sheep ; and seventy-five thousand four hundred and sixty-
nine pigs. The surface of the country is generally uneven, and towards the
west, on the borders of North Devon, approaching to mountainous. The
principal hills lie east and west, and are nearly parallel with each other.
These ranges are generally poor, affording pasture for a coarse kind of sheep
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 259
and some young cattle. The hill-tops of the south and south-west are covered
with heather. The geological features of the country are varied, and are
chiefly composed of mountain limestone, inferior oolite, the white and blue
lias, and the new red sandstone. The highest hills are mountain limestone,
which has been forced up from its proper place, and is found overtopping the
upper strata to a hight of six or seven hundred feet. The eastern part of the
country is generally oolitic, stretching away northward to Bath, at which
place it produces some of the finest building stone in the kingdom. The lias
comes next in rotation, cropping out from under the oolite westward. The
red sandstone is not so prevalent. This, with the oolite, is the lightest soil upon
which lai-ge flocks of sheep are kept, which in the south, are chiefly of the South
Down breed, but in the northern district, towards Bath, are crossed with the
Leicester, forming a larger and more remunerative animal. The method of
farming is the four or five-field shift — 1st, wheat : 2d, green crop (turnips,
vetches, etc.) ; 3d, barley ; 4th and 5th, clover first and second year. The
wheat crop is from twenty-four to forty bushels per acre ; barley from thirty-
two to sixty bushels, sometimes more. A heavier kind of land is found on
the lias formation. A team of four horses, or six or eight oxen, is employed
in plowing it. This is more productive of grain than the lighter land, and is
farmed in a similar manner.
In some places what is termed a dog-flock, that is, young sheep of a year
or so old, are fattened for the Bristol and Bath markets. The lowlands and
valleys are rich and i^roductive. Between the ranges of hills before noticed
are some of the richest plains in England. The vale of Taunton Dean, in
the south of the county, is extremely rich. Another nearly level plain extends
from the town of Bridgewater to the Mendip hills, and eastward to the city
of Wells. Another plain, but rather more uneven, stretches north of the
Mendip towards Bristol. These plains are largely devoted to the fattening
of beef and mutton for the supply of the local, and also the London markets.
Somerset is noted for its cheese, of which large quantities are made. It bears
the name of Cheddar from a small village at the foot of the Mendip hills.
The name oi'iginated from the farmers of the village uniting the milk of their
cows for the purpose of making a larger cheese. This was done at each
other's houses in turn. From that time, which was about one hundred years
ago, the thick cheese made in Somersetshire has borne the name of Cheddar,
and bears the highest quotations of any English cheese in the London and
other markets. It is made much thicker than was at first anticipated. The
size that now is in request ranges from forty to eighty and up to one hundred
pounds ; the shape is from ten to fourteen inches in depth, and fifteen and
a-half inches in diameter.
This county, and the others south, have suffered very little from the cattle
plague. Dairy cows, however, during the season (1866) have been high, com-
manding from eighteen to twenty pounds sterling per cow, or from ninety to
one hundred dollars. The dairy cows are motley grades, and so far as I have
260 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
seen, do not show any better milking qualities than the first-class dairies of
Herkimer and Oneida counties, New York.
DESCEIPTIOIS" OF STOCK.
The cattle kept in the county at this time are the Devon and Short-Horn,
the former pure of their kind, the latter rarely so, but have been employed to
improve the original stock of the country. The Devons are said to have been
formerly (with few exceptions), a small, three-cornered, nondescript animal,
of little use to the dairyman, and less to the breeder and grazier. Their
home is South Somerset and North Devon, The race is wonderfully improved
through the energy and perseverance of some farmers, who have taken the
best animals they could find and bred from them, until they have succeeded
in producing one of the best animals of which England can boast. In the
opinion of some no beef is equal to it, the fat and lean being so nicely inter-
mingled. Their milking qualities are not yet equal to those of other kinds.
A few years since there was a breed called the Hampshire cow, a useful
animal for any purpose, of good constitution, size, milk, and beef. Mr.
Harding gave me a description of a cow of this breed, nearly the last of the
race, which was twenty years old, and had been milked the jDrevious summer,
and in the March following went to the butchers at £20 Is. I was told that
fifty years ago, in the neighborhood of the Mendip hills, they had what was
termed the " Mendip cow," of little service but to milk ; but both these good,
and inferior animals have passsed away, and they have scarcely any cow
but what partakes, in a greater or less degree, of the Short-Horn breed.
QUANTITY or CHEESE, ETC.
The increased quantity of cheese supplied by this county is not due, it is
said, to the change of stock, so much as to the superior management of the
present day in feeding stock, clearing the hedge-rows, and draining the wet
land, &c. Fewer cows were kept thirty years ago than now. It was then
generally supposed that no more could be kept with advantage beyond what
half of the pasture or grass land would supply with grass in the summer, and
the other half cut for the winter. Now they keep more cows, mow less, and
in winter do with less hay ; they feed with straw and oil cake while the cows
are dry, so that they get little or no hay till thej" calve. Three pounds of
cake per day (the best American) they say will keep a cow in fair condition
if straw be given ad libitum. In some particular districts as much as six
hundred weight or six hundred and seventy-two pounds of cheese per cow,
it is said, are made. This is on the best cheese-producing land ; and this,
from long observation, is chiefly on some one of the oolite formations. Not
only does it produce the largest amount of cheese, but also of butter. There
are no statistics of the quantity of cheese made annually in the county, but
from all I can gather, it is from eighteen million to twenty-five million of
pounds.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 261
wiltshire.
For diversity and beauty of scenery Wiltshire is not equal to Somerset.
Its geological formation, in general terms, may be classed in three divisions,
namely, the white lias, which is lowest, the several classes of oolite, and the
chalk. According to the late returns the ai'ea is 865,092 acres. The number
of cows kept is 44,760 ; young stock and oxen, 32,967 ; sheep, 596,822 ; and
pigs, 61,012. The natural division of the county is so remarkably distinct,
that it must be described accordingly, viz., north and south. The south part,
with a few exceptions, is the chalk district, and forms what is called the
Wiltshire downs. Lying high, the land is very thin ; still the valleys and
slopes are rich for growing grain and turnips. The farms are large, some
1,000 to 2,000 acres. Large numbers of sheep, known as the South Downs,
are kept upon these farms. They have black faces and feet, the wool short
and fine. The mutton commands the highest price in the London market of
any in the kingdom. Though small in size, they will frequently load them-
selves with flesh, so as to reach 120 pounds in weight. In this district is the
celebrated Salisbury Plain, also on the chalk. It is not strictly a plain, except
in general appearance ; but is beautifully undulating, not unlike the ocean
with its long swells after a storm. The farming of this district is generally
the four-field system. In some places, such as on the white clay and the sandy
loam at the bottom of the hills, it is worked in the three-field system. All
the light land is plowed with two horses. Neat and good farming is every-
where seen, and it is claimed is scarcely surpassed in England. North Wilt-
shire is very difierent in appearance from the south. The broad uninclosed
downs are no more seen, but rather inclosed fields with numbers of trees in
the hedges, giving the appearance of forests from the surrounding hights.
This is the oolite district, and is farmed in much the same manner as the
south, being all light lands. The temperature of the climate being warmer,
the grain ripens earlier and is therefore less liable to blight.
THE WHITE LIAS AND DAIRY DISTRICT.
The lias is a very small portion and may be merged into the dairy district,
which is principally in the middle and northern j)arts. The cows are Short-
Horns, and regarded here as the most useful in England, excellence in milk
and meat being alike sought for. A large quantity of cheese is made which
finds its way to the London and other markets. The quality of the cheese
is not the best ; a little milk butter is usually taken out, but not always, but
a large quantity of whey butter is often made. The method of cheese making
is laborious, not so much in the manipulation of the curd ^s in the salting and
pressing and the preparation for market, all being unnecessary labor. The
salting, which might and ought to be in the curd, is continued over two or
three days, rubbing it in with the hand over the external parts of the cheese,
which receives a fresh cloth every time it is salted, which in some instances
is twice a day. The cheese is then continued in the press, turned every
262 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
morning for from four to six days, after which it may venture to the cheese
room, which is a large, airy room, supposed to be requisite for properly dry-
ing. The cheese is then allowed to throw out a coat, generally blue. This
coat must be scraped off and a new one formed, after which it goes to the
market, realizing from ten to fifteen shillings, under the improved Cheddar
price. Wiltshire, up to the 21st of April last, had lost but ninety-nine cattle
on account of cattle plague, and I heard of no cases in the county during the
summer.
The principal dairy district of Wilts ranges from Westbury, in the south,
to Chippenham, northward, around Chippenham and towards Swindon, from
forty to fifty miles in length. It is generally narrow from Westbury to Chip-
penham, and from Chippenham to Swindon from ten to twelve miles wide
and a pretty level tract of country. Before reaching Salisbury to the south
you strike the chalk formation which underlies the " Salisbury plains." In
going to Salisbury from the north, the chalk first shows itself in a range of
high bluffs or hills. The chalk lands are rather light and are worked with
two horses, while with the heavier lands three or four horses are attached to
the plow. Upon the lowlands the soil is of richer character. In passing
through this county one is continually coming upon large flocks of sheep in
charge of shepherds— mutton sheep, of course, since the production of meat
is always an important element in the resources of British agriculture.
MANNER OF MAKING WILTS CHEESE.
There is nothing in the manufacture of Wilts cheese that would be of
any account to the dairymen of America, and it is a matter of surprise that
the people of this district are so bound up in old practices as to waste their
time and substance in manufacturing cheese of this character. Comparing
the Wiltshire method and the apparatus in use with our factory system, the
latter is about a century in advance. I give some of the leading features of
the Wilts method of manufacture, not for the purpose of benefiting anybody,
but rather as a matter of curiosity, if I may so term it. I was upon some of
the best farms of Wiltshire, and among some of the most intelligent of its
cheese makers, and shall give their best practice.
The night's milk is skimmed in the morning and added to the morning's
mess ; milk set at 80° and left about an hour to coagulate. It is then broken
up with a circular breaker having an upright handle and used as you would
push a churn dash up and down. The breaking is done gently at first. In
cooking the mass is raised to 100°, stirring all the time with the breaker.
It is then left to rest, and as soon as the curd can be handled it is taken out
of scald and put to press. It remains in press twenty minutes ; is then taken
out, ground and salted at the rate of two pounds of salt to the hundred weight
of curd. It is ground again and put to press. The next day the cheese ia
taken out of press and salted on the outside, receives a new cloth, and is put
back to press, the same course being pursued for two successive days, after
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 263
which it gets no more salting, but is kept in press eight days, each day being
taken out and turned. It is then put into a stone cheese room and left for a
week or two and turned every day. At the end of this time the cheese will
be covered with mold, when it is put in a tepid bath or moistened and the
mold scraped off, when it goes to the dry room. Here it is turned every day
until fit for market, say from sixty to ninety days old, or according to the
demand and price. The Wiltshire cheese is less solid than the Gloucester,
to which I shall refer hereafter.
At one of the farms I visited, where sixty cows were kept, and very nice
stock, too, the product was a trifle over two pounds of curd per day from
each cow, and one and a-half pounds of butter for each cow per week.
Cockey's cheese apparatus was in use, which consists of a tub having a
double bottom, the upper one copper, heat being applied between the two,
either with hot water or steam ; but generally the old-fashioned tubs hold
sway. The hoop for pressing the cheese is turned out of a solid block of
wood, with a bottom to it pierced with holes for the whey to escape. When
put to press, some eight cheeses are piled up together, one above the other,
and the pressure applied to the lot at one time. The milk pails are made of
tin, and hold about twenty-four quarts ; they are formed with a projection or
handle on one side and are carried upon the head while taking the milk to
the dairy.
The Wiltshire dairies are very cleanly. The dairy rooms are built of
stone, with stone floors and whey vats of lead, and everything kept in the
neatest possible manner. In this respect they are models, but the amount of
labor in cheese making is very great, and the dairywomen adhere with perti-
nacity to the old customs, giving no reason for this waste of labor, except
that " that is the way we always do." In Wiltshire I found the stock better
than in Somersetshire, some attention being paid to breeding. Wiltshire
has a great cheese market at Chippenham.
THE CHEESE MARKET AT CHIPPENHAM.
The market place is an open court surrounded by buildings, one side of
which is open and supported by pillars, thus giving a spacious place for the
stowing of cheese under cover. The open court is nicely paved, and the
arcades on either side have a stone floor. The cheese is brought in carts,
packed loosely in straw, without boxing. They are taken from the cart and
placed upon the stone floors in the arcades, spread out or piled up. Each
dairy farmer has his lot together, and they are thus exposed for sale. The
cheesemongers or dealers come down from London, Bristol, Bath and other
places, and make their purchases. There is a constant hum of voices and
tread of feet, as one can readily imagine where a large number of people are
collected together intent on selling or purchasing, or are here out of curiosity,
or perhaps to meet persons on other business beside the cheese trade. The
dealers go aboiit testing the cheese, making their purchases and ordering it
264 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
to be sent away as sales have been made. No boxes are used in the trans-
portation of cheese as with us in America. The market days here are twice
a month, and often, I was told, as much as two or three hundred tons of
cheese are in the market during the fall sales. There was a considerable
quantity on sale at the time of my visit, all new cheese, and most of it Wilt-
shire. The Wiltshire cheese is a small, flat cheese, from four to five inches
thick, fifteen to sixteen inches in diameter, and taking four to make one hun-
dred weight (one hundred and twelve pounds). They are inferior to the
Cheddar, and very much inferior to American factory cheese, and the highest
prices are only occasionally realized.
GLOUCBSTEKSHIEB,
I think there are no statistics giving the number of pounds of cheese
annually produced in Gloucestershire, but some estimate may be made from
ofiicial returns of the number of coavs in the county. It is put at 34,744;
loss from cattle plague up to 21st of April, 116. I understand that the losses
since that time have not been of much account. The geological features are
the oolite, the lias and the new red sandstone, the former comprising the
principal part of the hills and high lands, the lias the more level and the
latter the richer and deeper soils of the valleys, which are chiefly pasture
lands, upon which butter, cheese and meat are largely produced. The oolite
strata in its varied character runs from north to south, forming the Cotswold
hills. Entering Somersetshire at Lansdown, near Bath, where it furnishes
the beautiful Bath stone, passing outward into North Somerset, widening
as it enters Wiltshire, soon after which, in the neighborhood of Westbury, it is
no longer the surface soil, but becomes loaded with the green sandstone and
chalk formation, like the snail which bears its shell upon its back. The Cots-
wold hills are well farmed in the four, five or six course systems, according
to the capability of the • soil. Wheat, barley and turnips are successfully
grown. The hills give the name to the Cotswold sheep — which have long
been bred and fed there — beautiful animals, with white face, and of highly
improved quality, both as regards meat and wool, the latter being long and
fine, the fleece weighing from five to ten pounds. A ram will sometimes
turn ofi" fifteen or sixteen pounds of wool. They are generally heavier in
mutton than the Downs.
On the western side of the Cotswold hills, extending to the Severn River,
and fifteen to twenty miles in length, is what is called the vale of Berkeley.
It has every appearance of having been, in past time, covered with the sea.
This valley is the chief dairy district of the county of Gloucester. The native
cow is of dark color, with a black nose, short legs ; is a thick-set, well-built
animal ; altogether a very useful beast ; but the Short-Horns and Herefords
are displacing her.
In the regular Gloucestershire dairies the cheese is made thin, eight of
them only weighing one hundred and twenty pounds. They are made twice
PRJicTiCAL Dairy Husbanbby. 265
a day, the work beginning about seven o'clock in the morning, and being
finished about ten or eleven o'clock. At five in the afternoon they commence
with the evening milk, and finish between eight and nine o'clock. This
cheese is known in the cheese-consuming world as the famous Berkely cheese.
If well made it is rich and sweet, and the makers are quite as tenacious of
their reputation as those Avho make cheese worth from ten to twenty shillings
per hundred weight more money. Cows are generally kept, more or less, over
the county except on the uplands. The south and south-west, around the
neighborhood of Bristol, are the coal meadows. This district is not farmed
so well, comparatively, as the other sections, from various circumstances ;
being in the coal district, the surface is uneven and the enclosures small, as
are also the farms ; besides it is near Bristol, at which place hay, sti'aw and
milk are continually sold.
CHEESE APPARATUS AND MODE OF " SINGLE GLOSTER " CHEESE MANUPACTUEE.
At a nice farm in the southern part of Gloucestershire, which I visited in
June for the purpose of seeing the operations of making " Single Gloster "
cheese, the dairy consisted of thirty-five cows. These were Short-Horns,
large, handsome, but not showing extraordinary capacity for milk. The
dwelling, dairy and buildings Avere all of stone, large, commodious, and every^
thing kept in the neatest manner. The place where the cheese was made was
a spacious room with stone floor, clean and well ventilated, and as cool and
sweet an apartment as the most fastidious cheese-maker could desire. The
utensils or appurtenances for cheese-making consisted of an unpainted tub for
holding the milk, leaden vats for holding the whey, a circular wire curd-
breaker, having an upright handle springing from the center, dippers, skim-
mers, &c., with two box presses for pressing the cheese. The last were
unlike anything I had ever seen, and consisted of large square boxes moving
up between standards by means of pulleys and ropes attached to a windlass.
The boxes were filled with stones, iron, &c., making a weight of several
hundreds pounds, and applied directly on the cheese. These presses were
very nicely made of dark wood, and varnished, evidently intended to be orna-
mental as well as useful. From the manner of their make and the power to
be applied in raising the weight, the services of a strong man would be
required. The milk was being made up twice a day, making eleven cheeses
of fourteen pounds each for every two days, each cheese being about two and
a-half inches thick by fourteen or fifteen inches broad. There was no heating
apparatus in the room, and none is required in the " Single Gloster " process
of cheese-making. As soon as the milk is all deposited in the tub the rennet
is added, when it is left to coagulate. As soon as properly coagulated it is
broken up with the wire breaker, by moving it up and down, which has a
tendency to pulp the curd i*ather than break it, as the word breaking is gener-
ally understood by our cheese-makers. The mass is then left for the curd to
settle, and after it has arrived at a proper degree of firmness to be handled
266 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the whey is dipped off down to the curd, the tub canted up to drain off what
whey remains, and the curd gathered to the upper edge of the tub. The
whey being removed, the curd is cut across and heaped up, and pressed with
the hands to expel as much of the whey as possible, when it is put to press.
It remains in press till morning, when it is taken out, turned and salted on
the outside. It is then i-eturned to the press and goes through the same ope-
ration from four to six successive days. When taken from the press it is put
upon the shelf for a few days, to be turned every day, and finally goes to the
cheese room, when it will be ready for market in two or three months, if
prices suit. This cheese or drying room is in the upper part of the dwelling
house, and the cheeses, when taken here, are placed close together on the floor.
A chance dealer from Bristol, who was present, made a test of the cheeses
by walking upon them as they lay spread out upon the floor, which we were
assured was the usual method of determining their firmness and solidity. They
stood the test of his weight and boots, and were pronounced among the best in
Gloucestershire. The hoops in which the cheese is pressed are turned out of a
solid piece of wood, and each has a stationary bottom pierced Avith holes, similar
to the hoops used in Wiltshire. In one of the presses I counted fifteen cheeses
piled up one upon another, all of which were being pressed together. I think
from the above description none of our dairymen will care to make "Single
Gloster" cheese and I cannot see why people there will continue to keep along
in the same old rut of their forefathers without making some effort to improve.
I have now presented some' of the general features of this great district.
The country is well watered by springs and streams, but no better than, if as
well as, many parts of the central counties of New York. Where watering
places are constructed the plan is somewhat different from ours — small ponds
being more numerous. The pastures produce, perhaps, more feed than with
us, from several causes. In the first place they are more free from weeds ;
they are better cared for in top-dressings of manures, while the humidity
of the climate produces fresher feed and a greater quantity of verdure.
The permanent pastures have a fine thick sod, filled with a variety of nutri-
tious grasses, among which the following may be of interest in this connec-
tion. The sweet-scented vei-nal grass {Anthoxanthum odorato) flowers in
May, and grows freely in all soils and situations. It is one of the earliest of
grasses, and the fragrant odor it affords when dried gives to meadow hay
much of its sweetness. Meadow foxtail {Alopecurus pratensis) flowers in
May and June. Its early, abundant, leafy produce is much liked by cattle
and sheep, and renders it one of the most valuable of pasture grasses. It
forms part of the best pastures and thrives under judicious irrigation.
Meadow fescue {Festuca pratensis) flowers in June, likes a good soil, and
does not attain its full growth until three years from the time of sowing.
The produce is nutritious and abundant, and it forms a uniform and abundant
turf. Cocks-foot grass {Dactylis glomerata) flowers in June and July, grows
three feet high and upward, and forms a large portion of all the best natural
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 267
pastures, and is regarded superior to most grasses in the quantity and quality
of its produce. Its coarse and tufted character makes it unsuitable for lawns.
Crested dogstail ( Cynosurus cry status) flowers in July, and is found in all
pastures. It suffers but little from dry weather, but produces only a moderate
quantity of fine herbage. Hard-fescue grass {Festuca duriuscula) grows two
feet high and forms a portion of all dry pastures, and retains a permanent
verdure. It flowers in June. Sheep fescue {Festuca ovina) is found in all
dry soils from the sea land to a great elevation ; flowers in June. Meadow
grass {Poa prate?isis), or Kentucky blue grass. It produces an early, nutri-
tious herbage, and is regarded as particularly suited to light soils. Rough-
stalked meadow grass (Poa trivialis), fibrous-rooted, rough stalks, forms a
portion of almost all mixtures for permanent pasture-grasses, and is particu-
larly desirable in grounds shaded with trees. Timothy is also found in pas-
tures and meadows, but is not grown to the same extent as with us. Then
there are the clovers, red and white, which are so largely grown with us ;
and the Alsike clover [Trifolium hyhridum), a true perennial, very productive
on moist, rich soils, and will succeed where red clover fails. It is regarded
by many as superior to white clover in bulk and quality of produce, and equals
it in duration. These are among the leading grasses ; and in seeding for
permanent pastures, a compound of the best grasses and clovers is used,
often as much as two bushels of the light and twelve pounds of the heavy
seed to the acre.
I think the question of pastures is better understood in England than with
us, and it is a point on which we have something to learn from them. I can-
not say that the quantity of grass from permanent meadows, or those long in
grass, is larger than is often found with us, but the quality is finer and better
— that is, the hay has less woody fiber than with us. At Rothamstead —
Lawes' celebrated experimental farm — my attention was particularly called
to the fineness of the grass made into hay. The old stocks which had been
cut down, presented a solid mass of hay almost as fine as hair, and its nutri-
tive quality must have been a third more than our timothy, on account of less
waste of woody fiber.
Allusion has been made to permanent meadows, but generally what we
term meadows, that is, land devoted to the production of hay, are treated
very differently from ours. Much of the hay is grown on what is termed the
four or five course shift. It comes in regular rotation after grain crops. It
is mowed once or twice, and then broken up for a crop of wheat. Various
mixtures are sown, and large yields often result. I went upon a splendid,
meadow in Devonshire, where the yield of grass upon the ground must have
made at least two and a-half tons of hay per acre, and perhaps more, and it
was the first crop. The seeding per acre was as follows : Eight pounds of red
clover ; two pounds of white clover ; four pounds of trefoil ; three pounds of
Peek's Italian rye-grass. This is not given as an illustration of the best mix-
ture, but rather as a specimen of what our farmers would term heavy seeding.
268 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Lands often get more and a greater variety of seeds. Perhaps I am occupy-
ing too much space by going so minutely into details ; but I feel earnest for
the success of American farmers, and have thought that it might be of inter- Ml
est for them to get a little insight into the manner in which dairy farms are ■
managed abroad. Perhaps this may be appreciated the more, when they are
told that a farmer in the dairy regions of England often pays from |3,000 to
|3,500 per annum in rents and taxation for a two-hundred-acre farm. He
pays this for the land alone, and gets no use of any personal property Avhat-
ever. He then stocks it at his own expense. He is at all the cost of uten-
sils, labor, and of keeping the farm in repair. As the wealthy or " well-to-do "
farmer, for the most part, never lays his hand to any labor beyond superin-
tendence, one might naturally conclude, as I did, that pretty shrewd manage-
ment at least is required to pay this sum, support his establishment, and lay
up money from his business.
By the judicious use of capital and the liberal use of fei'tilizers, and by a
system of mixed farming, he is able to accomplish these results. It is true,
labor is cheap. He pays his laborers from thirty to forty cents per day, and
in harvest a little more ; but he does not board them. They have cottages
— good, substantial buildings — and little gardens. These cottages, like the
more pretentious mansion of the farmer, are erected by and at the expense of
the landlord ; but a certain number of people go with the farm, and they pay
rent to the fai'mer for their cottages, say about a shilling per week.
The condition of the peasantry is, in many respects, most wretched ; but
that need not be discussed here. The farmer's position is infinitely above
them, and he lives, for the most part, the life of a gentleman. He is a man
who is exjDccted to have some means, say from £8 to £10 per acre ; or, in
other words, a floating capital of from forty to fifty dollars for every acre of
his farm. This he uses in his business, purchasing stock and fertilizers, and
making such improvements as he judges will pay him back remunerative
profits. And here I cannot do better than introduce the reader to Mr.
Haeding, of Marksbury, the great exponent of Cheddar cheese-making in
England. Mr. Harding is perhaps sixty years old, and learned the great and
essential principles of cheese-making from his ancestors. He has simplified
the process of manufacture, and helped to reduce it more to a science; but he
does not claim to be the originator of the Cheddar style. He is an intelli-
gent, companionable man, with a rich vein of humor in his composition. A
brief view of his mode of management will serve as an illustration of the
manner in which dairy farms are conducted in the south of England, although
in some respects, Mr. Harding's practice differs from that of others.
MR. Harding's farm.
The farm may be regarded as of rather inferior land, some of it a com-
pact, tenacious soil, requiring a four-horse team to plow it. Comparatively,
he places the farm under the head of middle-class lands, and when he first
Practical Dairy Husbandrt. 269
came upon it, it was considered unadapted to tlie dairy. But, for illustration
it will serve our purpose better to take some extra farm, since a nearer
approximation will be reached to average results. The farm consists of three
hundred acres, two hundred of which are in permanent pasture and meadow,
and one hundred acres arable land. The farm is hilly, and rises from the new
red sandstone, which is the poorest part, to the white lias, which is level, and
upon which lies the arable portion, and again rising to the oolite, which is the
best part of the farm. The permanent grass lands are used alternately for
pasture and meadow, the change being made annually. Mr. Haeding making
good cheese, which sells at a high price, believes it more remunerative to
convert as much as possible of the arable land into milk. A considerable
portion of the arable land is devoted to grasses that will come early to supply
the cows in sjDring. The arable land is managed as follows: First crop,
wheat ; second, turnips, vetches, tares, &c. ; third, barley ; when the land is
seeded with I'ye-grass one bushel, trefoil, ten pounds, red clover, four pounds,
white cloA^er, three pounds per acre. Upon these grasses the cows are pastured
two seasons, when it is broken up in August or September and sown with
wheat in October, without additional plowing. After the wheat is harvested,
a portion of the stubble is immediately plowed and sown with winter tares
for feeding sheep early in spring. Another portion is sown at the same time
with trifolhitn i7icarnatu')n (Italian crimson clover), another part is sown in
February with spi'ing tares, and the balance to Swedes and other turnips.
All this feed is to be consumed for the feeding and fattening of sheep, of
which from one to two hundred are kept.
The sheep are purchased in August, at from six to eight months old, at
prices ranging from seven dollars and a-half to ten dollars each, and the next
season, after shearing, are sold at from fifteen to twenty dollars each. In
fattening the sheep, they are hurdled and fed on the turnips, vetches, &c.,
with corn or cake, say of the latter at the rate of half a pound each per day.
The turnips are grown in drills, with an application of from five to six hun-
dred pounds of superphosphate per acre, leaving the principal part of the
farm-yard manures for the permanent grass lands, upon which are kept from
sixty-five to seventy cows, half-a-dozen heifers, and eight horses. Thirty-five
dollars per ton are paid for the superphosphate.
The cows are grades partaking largely of the Short-Horn blood, of good
size, with a view that, when failing for the dairy, they may be turned to good
account for making beef. Mr, Harding keeps more stock than he grows hay
for, in the winter, thinking that grass is far more valuable than hay, and he
makes up the lack of fodder by giving two parts straw and one of hay, cut
to chaff, with three or four pounds of oil-cake per day to each animal. The
cows yield about four hundred and fifty pounds of cheese each annually.
They " come in milk " in February, and cheese-making commences about the
first of March. The calves are sold to the butcher when a few days old, as is
the practice of some of our dairymen. The cows are not kept in barns or
270 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt.
close stables as is the practice in New York, but are tied in sheds built of
stone, the floors nicely paved. In these they take their place during sum-
mer — night and morning, for milking, and each milker is allotted seven cows.
Tin pails are used for milking, and the milkers place them on the head when
carrying the milk to the dairy.
The pig in this dairy forms an important item of profit. A hundred or
more are fattened during the year on barley meal mingled with the whey,
which annually realize about seven dollars and a-half per hundredweight, after
paying for the meal. The hogs are of the Berkshire breed, and very fine
ones. They are kept in a nice, spacious stone piggery, cleaned and bedded
every day. The barn is a large stone building, provided with a water-wheel,
to which is attached the threshing machine, chaff-cutter and stones for grind-
ing the grain. The dairy-house is connected with the dwelling, and is a model
of neatness, being built of stone, and provided with Cocket's apparatus for
cheese-making, a tolerably good apparatus, but much inferior to our factory
vats. The milkers are not allowed to come into the dairy, but pour the milk
into a receiver at the window, which conducts it to a tub. The whey passes
off through pipes to a cistern in the piggery, where it is pumped for the pigs.
The production of hay on permanent meadows of this farm is generally at
the rate of three thousand eight hundred pounds to the acre. Farm-yard
manures are not alloAved to accumulate in the yard, but are taken to the field
where they are to be used and there piled. Here it is turned until pretty
well rotted, when it is spread upon the lands to be mowed. It is applied at
the rate of twenty cartloads per acre, and brushed down fine.
Results. — ^Under this system the annual average receipts and expenditures
are as follows, the calculations of course, being upon a gold standard :
Cheese sold $5,000
Profit on sheep, including wool and mutton 500
Profit on pigs 600
Grain sold 1,800
Calves and butter 250
Total .' 8,150
The expenses are : ,
For rent $3,500
For tithes 450
For poor rates and taxes 400
For labor 1,750
5,100
Leaving an annual profit or balance of 3,050
The number of male hands employed, including boys, is ten. They get
on the average thirty-three cents and three pints of cider each per day. In
harvest the men get fifty cents per day ; these sums always including the cost
of board, since in England the hands do not live in the farmer's family, as
with us, but find themselves in board. The two girls in the house are paid
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271
thirty and fifty dollars per year and board. These figures were given to me
by Mr. Haeding as his average result of profits. To this should be added,
doubtless, the value of the food consumed in the family. No items were
given for beef sold, since these were made to balance depreciation of stock,
purchase of oil-cake, &c. No comment need be made on the foregoing,
because among practical men each will make the necessary comparisons and
draw his own conclusions as to whether his own or this is the best system of
dairy farming. But if any can show a better balance sheet, in gold, from a
poor farm of this size, he is doing well.
CHEDDAR CHEESE-MAKING.
Having described the Gloster and Wilts process of cheese-making, I will
say something of the Cheddar process. The improved English Cheddar
cheese is regarded by Englishmen as the finest cheese that is made anywhere.
It suits the general taste better than any other description of cheese manu-
factured. The fact that Cheddar always commands the highest prices ; that
there is an immense demand for it ; and that its manufacture has become
more scientific and thorough than that of any other kind, make it important
for us to study its character. I was among the Cheddar dairymen for more
than two weeks, studying the process of manufacture, and saw some of their
most noted dairies. I was at Mr. Gibbon's, who was awarded the gold
medal for the best dairy at the international exhibition, at Paris, and at Mr.
Harding's of Marksbury, Mr. McAdam's of Gorsly Hill, Cheshire, and
others, and after having seen all the difierent styles of cheese in Great
Britain, I am of the opinion that the Cheddar is the only process from which
American dairymen can obtain suggestions of much practical utility.
I may here remark that John Bull, like his blood relation Jonathan, is a
man of strong prejudices, and will often prefer a Cheddar cheese of no better
quality than good American at ten to fifteen shillings per hundred weight
more in price, simply because the English Cheddar has a better reputation.
This feeling has very much to do in regulating the difference of price between
the best samples of cheese of the two countries. But laying all prejudice
aside I must, in truth, say that we have not yet been able to surpass in excel-
lence the fine specimens of English Cheddar. It is a very high standard of
cheese, and is deserving of all the encomiums which it has received from time
to time. The quantity of extra Cheddar made in England is comparatively
small, and its peculiar excellence has been rarely reached in Amei'ican dairies.
Its requisites may be briefly summed up in the following points: 1. Mildness
and purity of flavor ; 2. Quality, which consists of mellowness or richness
under the tongue ; 3. Long keeping qualities ; 4. Solidity or freedom from
eyes or holes ; 5. An economical shape as regards shrinkage, handling and
cutting.
It is not within the range of a brief paper like this to go minutely into all
the details of Cheddar cheese-making, but rather to present points of differ-
272 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
ence between their points and our own. In the first place, English dairymen
have a cleaner and better flavored milk than generally obtains with us. The
milking is performed with great nicety in tin pails. The milk rooms are
perfect models of neatness. They have stone floors and the joints of the
flagging are cemented together, so that no slops or decomposed milk can have
an entrance. They are situated in a cool, airy place, and the walls are of
stone or of hollow brick, thus rendering them cool and of even temperature.
Every part is well ventilated, and out of the reach of disagreeable or fetid
odors. The floor, the utensils and cheese aj^paratus are kept as sweet and
clean as the tables and crockery of the most fastidious housekeeper.
This condition of things I found universal wherever I went among the
dairymen— at the royal dairy, near the Queen's palace at Windsor Castle, and
radiating thence through all parts of England. Nothing connected with
cheese-making abroad struck me with more force and admiration than this
perfect neatness and cleanliness of the dairy. In this respect they are greatly
in advance of us ; and in my opinion it is one of the chief reasons why they
are able to obtain that fine, clean flavor which is a distinguished character-
istic of their choice cheese.
. There is nothing, perhaps, which indicates the progress and skill of our
manufacturers more than the fact that they are able to take imperfect milk
from the hands of patrons, manipulate it among the fetid odors of whey slops
and decomposed milk, and yet turn out a cheese that will compete Avith the
great bulk of English make. But these conditions will not and cannot pro-
duce the fine, delicate flavor of the best Cheddar, and it is one reason why
there is such a great bulk of American cheese condemned abroad as " not
just right in flavor." Now this putrid inoculation does not show its Avhole
character at first, but, like the insidious poison in the blood, increases from
week to week, until it puts on a distinctive feature which spoils all the good
material with which it comes in contact.
I saw American cheese abroad, perfect in shape and color, rich in quality,
splendidly manufactured, and it had a bright, handsome appearance, that
would have placed it on an equality with the best in the world ; but the trier
showed a flavor that could be plainly traced to a bad or imperfect condition
of the milk before manipulation. I have been extremely mortified, while
testing cheese abroad, to catch the taste or smell of putrid rennet and of the
stables. This is one point of diflTerence between the dairy practice of the two
nations. In the Cheddar process the milk is at a low temperature— from
seventy-eight to eighty degrees— using some whey with the rennet, according
to the condition of the milk. After coagulation is perfected, which takes
from forty to sixty minutes, the curd is cut in large checks, and soon after
they commence breaking with a wire breaker attached to a long handle. The
breaking is at first slow and gentle, and is continued till the curd is minutely
divided. This is efiected before any additional heat is applied. They claim
that the curd cannot be properly broken at ninety or above ninety degrees, and
Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 2T3
that there is a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd by
breaking minutely at about seventy-five or eighty degi'ees without an increase
of heat during the process. This process of minute breaking in the early
stages of the curd appeal's to me to result in loss of butter, and this is the
chief reason, I think, why Cheddars have less butter in their composition than
our best American. That it does not result from inferior milk is shown from
the quantity of Avhey butter manufactured. The breaking at Mr. Haeding's
usually occupied a full hour. The heat is raised in scalding to one hundred
degrees. Their cheese apparatus is inferior to ours, and hence I think that
part of the process is not capable of being done so well as with us, since: heat
is not applied so evenly to all parts of the mass ; but from this point there is
a wide ditference in the treatment of the curds. When the curd has reached
a firm consistency, and the whey shows a slightly acid change — a change so
slight as to be detected only by the experienced observei' — it is immediately
drawn and the curd heaped up in the bottom of the tub. I am not sure but
this early drawing of the whey is an improvement.
When in London I had some conversation with Dr. Yoelckeii, the cele-
brated chemist of the Royal Agricultural Society. Among other things, he
said : — " One of the greatest faults of cheese-makers is in the application of
heat. Many use too high heat. The lower the temperature that can be used,
and the more evenly it can be applied, the better flavor will obtain to the
cheese. Another point of importance in cheese-making, and one not generally
understood, is in relation to the whey. It should be drawn off, got rid of just
as soon as possible, or as soon as consistent with the necessary operations."
He would draw the whey sweet. The reason he gave was, that " you can
never tell what matter you have or what you are dealing with in the whey.
It may contain taints of the worst character. You cannot well determine the
degree of its acidity, and hence great risks are run in steeping the curd for a
long time in the fluid." He would prefer to draw the whey as early as possi-
ble and allow the curd to undergo the proper change and arrive at maturity
heaped up in the bottom of the vat.
Soon after the whey is drawn and the curd heaped, it is cut across in
pieces a foot or more square and thrown again in a heap to facilitate drainage
and develope further acidity. It remains in this condition for half-an-hour,
the whey meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out of
the cheese tub and placed in the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand
into thin flakes and spread out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly
acid smell, and is slightly sour to the taste. It is left here to cool for fifteen
minutes, when it is turned over and left for the same length of time, or until
it has the peculiar mellow or flaky feel desired. It is then gathered up and
put to press for ten minutes, when it is taken out, ground in a curd-mill, and
salted at the rate of two pounds salt to the hundred weight (one hundred and
twelve pounds) of curd. It then goes to press, and is kept under pressure
two or three days. The curd, when it goes to press, has a temperature of
274 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt.
from sixty to sixty-five degreees, and when it is in the sink it is preferred not
to get below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during
the various parts of the process, in cool weather, by throwing over it a thick
cloth. It will be seen that, the whey being disposed of at an early stage, the
attention of the manufacturer is to be directed only to one substance — the
curd. By draining the whey and expelling it under the press, and then
grinding, a uniform incorporation of this material is effected. The cooling
of the curd before going to press, and the removal of the cheese after the
pressure, to a cheese-room, where an even temperature is kept up, differing
but little from that of the cheese when taken from the press, effects a gradual
transformation of the parts into that compact, mellow, flaky condition which
is characteristic of the Cheddar, and at the same time preserves its milky or
nutty flavor.
Now, apparently, there is nothing difficult in the process ; but the great
art in this as in other methods of cheese-making, is to understand the condi-
tion of the milk and the state of the curds during their various manipulations.
These cannot be described, but can only be learned by experience. The pro-
cess, however, is more easily acquired than that usually practiced at the
factories, since the whey being got rid of, the curd is placed under better
control of the operator, and the pressing, grinding and salting must, in this
respect, make a more uniform product. We can scarcely yet appreciate the
part that chemistry plays in the manufacture of cheese. We use a chemical
agent — rennet — the nature of which even the most learned chemists do not
fully understand. We note the changes that this produces in the milk and
manipulate it in its new condition. We then employ heat, another agent,
and develope an acid ; then another agent, salt ; and what wonder that, in all
these conditions and changes, the careless and unskillful operator should fail
in the quality of the article which he produces or the standard which he set's
out to reach ?
The most profound chemists are often thwarted in their operations by
inexplicable conditions which, at first sight, seem easy of solution. Thus, for
instance, take four well-known substances, viz., grape-sugar, corn-sugar,
starch, and wood, each of which is made up of only three elements, carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, which it must seem easy to use so that either of these
substances could be converted into the others. There is very little difference,
it will be seen, in the composition of any of these substances, and yet how
widely different are they to our senses. It would seem a very simple thing
to convert one of these substances into another by merely adding or subtrac-
ting an element, yet we find that the most expert chemists experience the
greatest difficulty in bringing about a result which nature is constantly
accomplishing in her silent laboratories. The more we can reduce cheese-
making to a science, and confine it within certain rules, the better will be our
practice and the more uniform our product. It may not be advisable to adopt
any one system exclusively, since fine cheese can be made by various methods ;
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 275
but the study of the cheese-maker should be to seize upon a good point when-
ever he can find it, and combine it in his own practice. Mr. Harding believes
a sharp-cutting instrument in breaking the curd is injurious, and that the curd
should be allowed to split apart according to its natural grain ; other persons
in England, quite as good cheese-makers, believe in sharp-cutting imple-
ments ; of these I might mention Dr. Voelcker of London, and Mr. McAdam
of Gorsly Hill, who has not only written well on cheese-making, but has
done much in introducing the Cheddar system into Scotland and Cheshire.
Of this, however, we may assure ourselves : by no system can good cheese be
made unless the manufacturer studies his business, and learns, by close appli-
cation, by observation and experience, the changes that are going on in the
process with the whey and curds, and can properly manipulate them.
CHESHIRE CHEESE-MAKIJiTG.
I suppose that many of our cheese-makers would hardly suspect that a
really fine, delicious cheese could be made by the following process, which is
the one in general practice in Cheshire ; and yet some of this cheese cannot
be surpassed in flavor and excellence. The Cheshire mode of cheese-making
is somewhat peculiar, and, to an American, would be called decidedly anti-
quated. The night's milk is usually set in pans and added to the morning's
mess, when it is set with rennet at a temperature of about seventy-five
degrees. Often no heat is applied — the morning's milk being sufficiently
warm to keep the mass up to the desired temperature for setting. After the
rennet is applied, the coagulation is perfected in about an hour, when it is
carefully broken up with a wire or tin curd-cutter, of similar make to the old
American curd-cutter.
The breaking being perfected, and the curd becoming sufficiently firm,
Avithout any additional heat being applied, the whey is dipped offi The curd
is then lifted into a drainer or kind of sink, where the whey can drain ofl*
more thoroughly, and from time to time the curd is cut across and heaped up,
so as to facilitate a more thorough separation of the whey. It is then salted,
by guess, and ground in a curd-mill, when it is put into the hoop, but not
immediately to press.
The hoops filled with curd, are set in a warm place for a day or so, generally
in a kind of oven constructed for the purpose; and, on the second day are
put under press. Here they are kept several days, as in the Wiltshire and
Gloucestershire districts. The hoops have no followers. They have a bottom
pierced with holes, which is stationary. A strip of tin, four or five inches
wide, is placed about the curd on the inside of the hoop, or above it, so as to
raise the curd above the top of the hoop. A board is now thrown or placed
on top of the curd, and as the press is applied, the tin sinks down with the
curd until it is pressed even with the hoop. If the cheese is not found to be
solid enough, another hoop of less hight, is used, and the tin put around that
portion above the hoop, and pressed in a similar manner. Many of the
276 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
presses are nothing but large square blocks of stone raised by a screw. They
are rude affairs. The bed-pieces on some are of stone, with a flue beneath
for conducting heat, in order to keep the cheese warm while pressing. The
milk is worked up into curd, and the utensils cleaned up every day by
twelve o'clock M.
It was really a matter of surprise to find that fine cheese could be made by
this process, where everything is done by guess, and where all the operations
are so different from our method. But a great deal of poor cheese is made in
the Cheshire dairies, and as a whole is inferior to our factory make. That
which is the best is as fine in flavor and quality as any cheese made, and will
command the highest prices. The texture of Cheshire cheese is diffei*ent
from the Cheddar, being what is termed " open meated," that is, loose in
texture without being porous. Their best cheese appears richer in butter
than the Cheddar.
I have merely given the outlines of the Cheshire mode of cheese making,
as a matter of curiosity. In my judgment there is nothing in the process
adapted to America, we being at least fifty years ahead in our appliances
and mode of manufacturing. I must say this, however, in favor of Cheshire
dairymen : everything connected with the dairy is kept scrupulously clean.
The floors, the utensils, and every part of the dairy are sweet and clean.
And here, perhaps, is the secret, or at least a part of it, of the fine, clean
flavor of their best cheese. During a portion of the time the Cheshire cheese
is undergoing the process of curing, the cheese is placed on straw or hay
upon the floor of the curing room.
APPEAEANCfi AND COMPAKATIVB MERITS OF AMERICAN CHEESE ABROAD.
Having now described the manufacture of the leading styles of English
cheese, it may be well to say something in regard to the appearance of Amer-
ican cheese in England, and what is thought of it in the foreign markets. I
went into neaiiy all the principal market towns in England from the south to
the north, and heard hundreds of people discuss the merits and faults of
American cheese at the storehouses, the shops and at the table. I took much
pains to get at the true state of feeling in the country, and I think I may
safely say that American cheese to-day, as a whole, has more quality and is
better manufactured than the bulk of English cheese.
I have given them the credit of producing a limited quantity of cheese of
the finest type that has ever been reached by any manufacture, but the quantity
is comparatively small, and when the whole bulk is considered, there is
nothing like the richness and uniformity of that from our factories. This is
not only my own opinion, but that of many of the best judges of cheese in
Great Britain. I have been at hotels where American cheese is always pur-
chased in preference to English, and I have been amused to hear Englishmen
contend that no such cheese could be produced in America, and nowhere else
except in the best dairies of England, but who were forced to give way on
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271
pointing out to them the bandage, which is an indisputable proof of American
manufacture. Country dealers, cotters, middlemen, and shippers, admit that
the highest grades of our factory cheese have more quality and are superior
to the general run of English make.
I have often heard dealers declare in a spirit of vexation that if the Amer-
icans continue to progress in the ratio of the last foiu- years, two or three
years more will place their cheese at the top of the market, and English make
must rank secondary. They say the Cheshire dairymen are " dough-heads "
not to try to keep pace with modern improvements. I have seen a dealer
look at American and English cheese side by side, and while admitting that
the American was in every resjDect the best, take the English at a higher
price, because, as he said, some of his customers had such foolish prejudices
that they would not try the American, and therefore could not judge of its
quality. A leading dealer in Manchester told me he had many times tried to
introduce American cheese among certain of his customers, and that they
would not purchase. By and by, when they sent up an order, he would slip
in a few of nice gi*ade factory' make, and after that the customer would be
eager to purchase, declaring he never cut up better cheese.
Now, this is the condition of things all over England ; there is prejudice
to overcome, because formerly our cheese was of bad character, and there is a
feeling that it is of such perishable nature that it will spoil if not immediately
consumed. These remarks apply to the nice grades of cheese. There is
another class of our cheese which comes into market that does great injury to
sales. It is cheese that is rich and well made but of bad flavor. This, and
large shipments of inferior make,the accumulated refuse from good and indif-
ferent lots which cannot be sold alone, are mixed up with good samples
and shipped abroad to clean out New York storehouses.
These lots drag on the market ; they are constantly accumulating, and
sales are forced, which breaks the market, besides carrying a prejudice where-
ever they go, against American cheese. As to the outward appearance of
American cheese, as I saw it abroad, it is generally good. Of course some
of it comes to hand soft, melted, and in wretched condition, but generally the
great bulk of factory make comes in store quite as bright and handsome as does
the English manufacture. Many of the large dealers told me they had never
had American cheese come to market with handsomer outward appearance
than this year's (1866) make. And I think in getting the comparative merits
of the cheese of the two nations we have often been misled and wrongly
informed. Great condemnation has been made of our poor cheese, all of
which was well deserved, but while great stress has been laid upon this, there
has been a studied care to conceal the merits of our best goods. This is but
natural. Men engage in the cheese trade to make money ; they run great
risks, and cannot be expected to post others up to their own disadvantage.
The laws of trade are " to buy cheap and sell dear ;" and so, after all, perhaps,
they are not so much to blame.
278 Practical Dairy Husbandry,
Some of the dealers, acting in concert with, parties in New York, take
great pains to keep factories which make prime cheese, in ignorance of the
fact. The factory names are erased from the boxes, and so customers are
supplied with a line of cheese which they can only trace to the private brand
of the dealer. Some have acquired in this way an enviable reputation for
handling choice American cheese, and have made largely by the practice. It
is a great damage to the factories, since other dealers are kept ignorant of
the brands, and cannot enter into competition for the purchase, I know of
no way for this to be remedied except by branding the name of the factory
on the bandage. Perhaps a good way also would be to have the name of the
factory neatly cut in rather broad letters upon the pressing follower, so that
the cheese when pressed will show the name of the factory in raised letters.
There is no difficulty in this, and no hurt will result to the cheese. I have
seen samples of English cheese where elaborate figures were raised upon the
surface in the manner suggested, but I would not advise any " gingerbread
work " — nothing but plain carving.
STYLES OF CHEESE DEMANDED.
The styles of cheese demanded for the trade will depend somewhat upon
the market for which they are intended. In London small Cheddar shapes
of forty, fifty, sixty, and seventy pounds are popular, and will command an
extra price over cheese of large size of the same quality. The true Cheddar
shape is fifteen and a-half inches in diameter by twelve inches in hight, and
by preserving this proportion for larger or smaller cheese that style is obtained.
Cheddars are made varying in size from those named up to eighty and one
hundred pounds, but the larger are not so common. A limited number of
those weighing one hunded pounds would readily find sale. Those weighing
about seventy pounds are not objectionable, but the smaller sizes are of
readier sale, and often on account of their size bring better prices. It costs
more, however, to manufacture small cheeses, and there is greater loss in
shrinkage ; and this ought to enter into the account in determining the size
that will be most profitable. It would be well for factories to make two sizes
of Cheddars, regulating each somewhat in accordance with their own con-
venience. The Cheddar shapes are popular all over England, and therefore
may be regarded as best adapted as a general rule for our factories to make
for exportation.
There is another style called the Derby shape, which, when made of fine
quality, brings the highest prices. It is a small, flat cheese, fourteen to fifteen
inches in diameter, and two and a-half to three inches thick, and weighing
twenty-five to thirty pounds. If care be taken in boxing, two cheeses might
be put in a box, and thus the expense on that score lessened. There should
be two heavy scale boards between the cheese, and none but well-made,
substantial boxes used. There is a moderate demand for our old-fashioned
shaped cheese — that is, a cheese half as high as its diameter, and weighing
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 279
from sixty to eighty pounds, but it should not exceed one hundred pounds.
In Livei'pool a variety of styles are worked oif readily. Several of the
dealers there told me they had no difficulty in disposing of cheese weighing
one hundred and twenty pounds to one hundred and fifty pounds, providing
it was all right as to quality and flavor ; but I am satisfied, after going among
the country dealers in difierent parts of England, that preference is always
given to cheese of smaller size when the other qualities are satisfactory.
COLOR.
The matter of color is a question which has long occupied the attention
of American dairymen, and upon which very indistinct notions have been
entertained. This is not to be wondered at when the different markets in
England give preference to a variety of shades, and different dealers ask only
for the color of their particular market. The Londoner likes a cheese of con-
sidei'able color, something like the rich shade of butter made when the dande-
lions are in bloom. It must be clear and pure ; not lemony or dirty, or mot-
tled through the cheese, but a rich shade of cream that gives a pleasing effect
to the eye, thus serving to highten the imagination that a delicious morsel
is before you.
London is the grand metropolis of the world, where wealth is unbounded.
The best articles of food readily find a market here, and command the highest
prices of any in the kingdom. If they can only get the hest they are willing
to pay for it, and this is the reason why choice cheese never goes begging at
top prices. When I went through the Manchester cheese markets they told
me that colored cheese was a drug and did not suit that market. A very
extensive dealer had just returned from Liverpool disappointed in not obtain-
ing a supply of pale-colored cheese. In prices, quality and shaj^e, he said,
there was no difficulty in being suited, but his customers insisted upon an
uncolored article, and as that was not to be had he did not purchase. It was
in this man's storehouses that I saw some of the Herkimer county, New York,
"coarse curds," and they were commended for their texture and quality.
There are large quantities of pale-colored cheese made in England, and con-
siderable of the high-priced Cheddar has no color except that which results
from the natural condition of the milk.
I went down to Chippenham to see the great annatto manufacturer, Mr.
Nichols. His preparation bears the reputation of the best in England, and
I thought it might be worth while to have him send over samples, and thus
have an article that was approved by English dealers. Mr. Nichols was
willing to send out samples on my assurance that they would be properly
distributed ; but when I reached London I learned from the chemists a secret
which is worth a good many thousand dollars to American dairymen. It is,
that all preparations of annatto depend for their excellence, not so much upon
any patent for dissolving or cutting the crude annatto as upon the purity of
the annatto itself. All the best English liquid annatto is cut with potash, so
280 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
that American dairymen can just as well make their own coloring material as
to send abroad at great expense for the English ai'ticle. But it is important
that we obtain Sl pure article, and this can only be secured by purchasing of a
reliable person who is a good judge of it. If you use a bad article you are
sure to get a bricky, uneven color, which is so objectionable, and which
reduces the price of cheese.
BANDAGES, BOXES, ETC.
In regard to bandaging and boxing I may remark that no cheese should
be made in America for shipping abroad without having a bandage upon it,
and without being put up in a strong box with heavy scale boards. I have
seen considerable quantities of English cheese in the storehouses split open at
the sides, a prey to skippers, and upon which losses were sustained. The
Cheddar dairymen put a coarse linen bandage upon their cheese during the
process of curing. It is brought round tight and temporarily secured. Some
work eyelet holes at the ends of the bandage and bring it snugly about the
cheese by lacing, as you would fasten a shoe upon the foot. These bandages
are stripped off when the cheese goes to market.
The cheeses would be better protected if they had permanent bandages, on
our plan, and some of the English dairymen advocate its introduction in their
dairies. By not bandaging something might, perhaps, occasionally be gained
in helping the English dealer to deceive his customers by palming off our
cheese as of English manufacture ; but good factories would lose their iden-
tity, and the loss from breakage and other sources would overbalance by far,
this advantage. Besides, it should be our object to make for American cheese
a reputation that shall stand unchallenged as the best in the world.
DEFECTS IJf AMEEICAIf CHEESE BAD FLAVOR, ETC.
We come to •consider the two leading defects in American cheese — porosity
and bad flavor ; and the last may be said to-day to overbalance all the other
defects put together, two or three times over. I need not waste time upon
that character of cheese known as soft, spongy, or salvy, or the poor grades
which come from carelessness, inefficiency, or ignorance in manufacture.
Good cheese-makers knoAV at once how these may be corrected, but I refer to
the better class of cheese made at factories. The English acknowledge that
the American factories stand unrivaled as sending out a cheese full of meat
— that is, full of butter or rich in quality. They speak in high terms of the
improvements that have been made in texture, firmness and solidity ; but to
see a cheese handsome in appearance, the meat having scarcely any objec-
tionable feature to the eye or finger, yet tinder the nose a disagreeable odor,
is what they cannot well understand. The large exportation of this poor,
indifferent, or bad-flavored cheese, more than anything else, breaks prices and
does immense damage.
The causes of bad flavor in cheese are various — insufficient and uneven
salting; a faulty separation of the whey from the curds before going to
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 281
press and while pressing ; putting the curds to press hot ; high heat and a
rapid manipulation of the curds, getting them in press before the proper
chemical changes have been effected ; but the chief causes of bad flavor in
well-manufactured cheese, as I saw it abroad, are, in my opinion, bad milk,
bad rennet, and bad curing of the cheese. I am satisfied that the cool,
even climate in England, and the excellent condition of the milk, together
with the uniform temperature of their curing rooms, enable them to succeed
where we often fail. We have a hot-bed climate to contend with, and milk is
often spoiled when it reaches the factory. If our dairy farmers would only
look upon this matter in its proper light, instead of laying all the blame of
bad-flavored cheese upon the manufacturer, there would be some hope of
improvement. They send to the factory tainted milk and demand from it a
perfect cheese. They impose upon the manufacturer conditions which no skill
has yet been able to surmount. High skill and great experience in manipu-
lating milk, together with favorable weather, and the putting the cheese in
market at the right moment, may enable the manufacturer to counteract
in part the faults of tainted milk ; but with intensely hot weather, and under
unfavorable circumstances, it is beyond his art. Bad rennet and tainted milk
are prominent causes of the early decay of our cheese.
We are told that American cheese will decay early. I have seen American
cheese in England more than a year old, perfect in flavor and in the best pres-
ervation, but it was not made in hot weather. The cheese made in July this
year, 1866, and sent to England, was all of it, more or less of bad flavor.
The complaint was universal, and against some of the most noted factories in
America. We must look upon these things from the practical side. I will not
deceive the dairymen of America with a fine-spun theory. We have been
greatly led astray in regard to this matter of flavor — led to believe that the
people of the Old World had discovered some wonderful process which would
ensure a perfect cheese under all conditions of the milk ; but I found the
leading feature of their success was in cleanliness and an untainted condition
of the milk.
It is well known that milk not divested of its animal odor, and closely
confined in hot weather, soon becomes putrid. Cheese manufacturers tell me
that milk often comes to the factory having a most fetid and sickening odor.
In extremely hot weather, when cows have been exercised or unduly excited
the milk is often of a rank odor as soon as drawn. The practice of putting
warm milk in tight cans and conveying it a long distance to the factory is
objectionable, especially in hot weather. Here is the commencement of bad
flavor. The good milk is inoculated with putrid matter, which shows itself
sooner or later, and carries with it decay like any other decomposition. Some
plan should be adopted for cooling the milk, or exposing it so that the animal
odor may pass off, especially in hot, sultry weather. I feel certain, from my
observations both here and abroad, that this is a leading cause of bad flavor,
and hence the practice of the Cheddar dairymen in getting rid of the whey
282 Pe ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry.
as early as possible, and the exposure of the curd a long time to the atmos-
phere, is founded upon philosophical principles. It is important to the dairy-
interest of America that a reputation be maintained for producing the finest-
flavored and best cheese made in the world, and, under our improved system
of manufacture, with proper care as to the purity of milk, this will be of easy
accomplishment.
Again, the cheese-producing sections of the Union are being developed so
rapidly that competition every year must be greater and greater. Every
factory should now establish a reputation for "extra fine goods." They
should keep the best manufacturers in the country. Make it an inducement
for them to stay with you. High skill and experience command ample remu-
neration the world over. Old and established factories can aflEbrd to pay for it,
rather than let new districts pick ofi" their best cheese-makers. The London
dealers complain that there is too little probability of factories sending forward
a uniform brand of prime cheese year after year. They want a brand that
can be relied upon, and when they find such will pay an extra price for
it. The curing rooms ought to be arranged so that the temperature may be
controlled. The curing rooms of England have walls of stone or hollow
brick. The climate is cooler, more moist and less variable than ours. These
facts ought to afford suggestions in the construction of our curing-houses.
There is another way in which flavor is lost ; the shipment of cheese in hot
weather, to lie in New York until heated through and through, and then
stowing away in the vessel with cargoes of grain, oil-cakes, or some other
freight from which taints are absorbed. Much of our nice cheese is injured
in this. way. In Bristol, Bath, London, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester— in
fact, all over England, the commercial storehouses for cheese are well con-
structed for the purpose of preserving flavor. They have stone floors, are
cool and well ventilated. Cheese that comes in bad condition is often taken
out of the boxes, or the covers removed, and then laid upon the floor to cool.
The fine compact texture of English cheese, in my opinion, results, in a
great measure, from their process of expelling the whey, grinding in the curd-
mill, salting and pressing. I may remark that while porousness is an objec-
tion, if the texture is not of a honey-comh character, but will fill the trier
with a tolerably compact mass, dealers do not urge a reduction of price, if the
flavor and quality are perfect. Extreme porosity shows a defect in manufac-
ture, and carries with it the impression that the cheese will sooner go to
decay, and is therefore dangerous to handle, requiring quick sales.
THE PROSPECTS OF THE ENGLISH MARKET.
In closing, a word may be ofiered in reference to the prospect of future
exportation and prices. The English are a great cheese-eating people. We
have no conception of the extent to which this food enters into general con-
sumption. Those who can afford to eat a good article purchase the best, and
the poor take up with that which is inferior and bad. I have seen tons and
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 283
tons of the most worthless stuff, apparently fit only for the pigs, in the shops
and public markets, and it had a rapid sale. The cutters are extremely
expert. They use a thin, circular knife, like a half moon, having an upright
handle springing from the centre, and with this they cut the cheese upon the
counter. They also use a fine wire, witk handles at each end, for splitting a
lai'ge cheese. I have been surprised at the accuracy with which they will cut
the different weights. The crumbs are laid on one side, to be used for
balancing the scales. There is an immense demand for inferior or low-priced
cheese. If we could manufacture cheese so as to sell on the counter at four-
pence to sixpence per j^ound, I think they would take our whole product.
Cheese does not come upon the table with pastry, as with us, but is brought
on as a separate and last course. A half or a quarter of a cheese, placed upon
a silver dish, with a clean, white napkin under it, is set upon the table and
cut as desired. I think there must be a good foreign demand for American
cheese for some years to come. The production has been cut off in the north-
ern districts of England. The cattle plague has been terrible in its ravages
through this section. In Cheshire and the adjoining counties the losses have
been fearful. The Cheshire people feel very melancholy, and many of the
farmers are unable to pay their rents. Some of them are trying sheep-
farming, but with indifferent results. They have been long a dairy people
and understand the management of cows. I am convinced they will go back
to dairy farming when the cattle plague shall be effectually eradicated — and
that appears now to be almost accomplished — but they will hardly get estab-
lished again for a year or two. They will not abandon dairying till we can
furnish cheese so cheaply as to drive them from the mai'ket. The cost of
transportation and the high prices of labor, and heavy taxation, are against the
production of a cheap cheese on this side, at least in the older States. Holland,
too, enters into competition with us. She is now shipping to England 80,000,-
000 pounds of cheese per annum. Last year (1865) the quantity imported was
nearly 73,000,000 pounds. The passage can be made in a day, and the cost
of exportation is a mere trifiie. Their cheese is very good, but not equal to
ours ; but they are improving every year in quality. They make three styles
of cheese, which are popular among the poorer classes. The Edams and
Middlebaes are round, like a cannon ball, and weigh from six to twelve
pounds. The Goudars are a small, flat cheese, of about twenty pounds
weight. The agricultural laborers like Edams, as they can take a cheese into
the field and cut it without waste. These cheeses sell at from eight to ten
shillings per hundred weight, below American. There is less difference
between the Derby Goudar and the American, the former often selling within
four shillings of the price of ours.
Our futm-e successes will depend upon our making fine cheese, and getting
it to market at cheap rates. Something might be done in opening up new
markets. The English export cheese to Australia, the Cape of Good Hope,
Brazil, and various other points.. Something should be done by the cheese
284
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
makers and shippers in the way of regulating exportations. If we could
give England a steady supply, without pushing forward an immense quantity
to clog the market, prices would be maintained, and greater profits realized.
The following table gives the iiiunber of packages of cbeese shipped from New Yorlt to
Liverpool, from May, 1862, to September, 1866, made up so that the comparative
weeidy shipments of the different years may be seen at a glance :
Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool.
Week Ending
1862.
Packages.
Packages.
1864.
Packages.
May
June
July
August
15.
22.
29.
September 5.
12.
19
26.
October 3 .
10.
17.
24
31.
November 7.
14.
21.
28.
December 5
12.
19.
26
January
16.
23.
30.
February 6.
13.
20.
27.
March
April
2.
9.
16.
23.
80.
Total,.
2,120
857
1,726
1,202
1,643
3,280
6,362
7,756
7,107
13,441
6.961
27,483
35,195
5,485
37,309
24,449
30,315
19,255
24,442
14,1.30
8,146
24,203
15,038
18,886
11,558
24,. 302
24,196
13,705
18,840
938
8,450
8,329
9,843
1863.
12,141
3,475
7,296
14,122
886
9,587
1,295
1,798
929
4,164
3,428
1,454
4,166
4,348
11,762
2,742
3,842
5,975
19,041
54,992
102,438
88,142
69,811
73,043
27,560
37,034
13,566
9,975
26,860
528,427
3,692
1,942
9,364
4,446
3,040
12,174
8,744
17,456
22,896
17,032
29,561
19,153
16,316
22,024
27,378
13,342
11,650
11,068
16.540
19,816
18,670
18,582
31,104
21,792
38,714
26,082
22,818
17,706
10,110
20,115
12,485
12,787
10,268
5,533
1864.
5,971
11,963
2,216
2,632
7,834
6,423
10,834
4.813
16,479
5,583
770
13,202
7,558
2,987
13,470
5,072
2,037
2,886
19,444
41,414
88,642
90,710
66,094
136,274
70,749
41,073
30,616
38,549
27,113
26,432
677,110
2,261
1,539
1,323
3,268
4,374
6,897
5,232
10,090
24,090
29,886
47,944
33,103
38,170
20,447
16,669
22,817
18,211
15,396
14,544
19,457
24,293
15,250
18,805
12,406
20,653
25,542
24,674
23,700
15,369
24,921
11,794
8,496
11,919
9,901
1865.
2,975
8,623
20,081
19,156
2,685
4,851
16,069
5,689
15,658
2,718
894
13,901
2,770
2,213
4,412
4,199
3,745
976
PRACTICA.L Dairy Husbandry.
285
"Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool— C(9nnSTAK:ES HADE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHEESE BEFORE
THE CURD IS SEPARATED.
The inferior character, and especially the bad flavor, of cheese OAves its
origin in many cases to a want of proper care in handling the milk from
which it has been made. Milk sometimes gets spoiled by dirty fingers before
it passes into the pail. If the vessels in which the milk is kept in the dairy
have been carelessly washed, and the milk-pails and cheese-tub have not been
well scrubbed, but merely been washed out, and if especially the dairy uten-
sils have not been scalded Avith boiling-hot water, it is vain to expect that
cheese of th« finest quality can be made, let the milk be ever so ricli in cream.
The neglect of these simple but important precautions soon manifests itself
in a dairy by a peculiar ferment which taints tlie whole milk, and afterwards
affects the flavor and consequently the quality of the cheese. Cleanliness,
indeed, may be said to be the first qualification of a good dairywoman.
The nature of every ferment is to produce in other matters with which it
comes into contact certain chemical changes depending on its own character.
Thus a little yeast produces in fermentable liquids large quantities of alcohol
and carbonic acid ; acid ferments containing acetic or lactic acid have a ten-
dency to generate vinegar or lactic acid in other liquids. A small piece of
putrefying meat in contact with a large mass of sound flesh soon spreads
putrefaction over the entire mass ; and other ferments act in a similar man-
ner. "Such ferments generally produce in other matters with which they are
brought into contact changes similar to those which they themselves undergo.
The disagreaable smell of dirty or badly cleaned milk-pails and cheese-tubs is
due to a peculiar ferment, which is rapidly formed, especially in warm
weather, when milk is left in contact with air and with the porous wood of
the cheese-tub and milk-pails. In the rapid process of vinegar manufacture
a weak alcoholic liquid is allowed to trickle through a barrel perforated all
over Avith holes to admit the air, and filled Avith Avood shavings. If the tem-
perature of the room in Avhich the vinegar casks are put up is sufiiciently high,
the alcohol, in trickling over these shavings Avhen in contact with abundance
of air, undergoes a complete transformation, and collects rapidly at the
bottom of the cask as vinegar. But such a change does not take place if the
alcoholic liquid is left for ever so long in a clean cask filled Avith such a
liquid. Contact Avith air, subdivision of the liquid into drops, and the pres-
ence of the porous wood shavings, are necessary for the transformation.
These casks do not at first produce vinegar as rapidly as after they have been
in use some time and become thoroughly soaked with vinegar ferment. And
this is another peculiarity of all ferments, that, under favorable circumstances,
they reproduce themselves from other materials in immense quantities. Thus
fresh and active yeast is generated in great abundance in fermenting malt
liquor, while the original yeast employed in brcAving is more or less decom-
posed and becomes what is called inactive yeast. These chemical facts, well
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 313
known to the manufacturers of vinegar and to the intelligent brewer, have a
direct bearing on cheese making.
At the very beginning of her operations a good dairy woman unconsciously
carries on a steady and constant battle with these remarkable ferments, and
it is very interesting to the chemist to see her proceed in the most rational
and 23hilosophical manner.
No milk is admitted into the cheese-tub before it has been carefully
strained through a cloth, lest a little bit of dead leaf or any similar matter,
accidentally blown into the milk in its passage from the milking place to the
dairy, should spoil the flavor of the cheese. No sooner has the cheese left
the tub than she begins to pour scalding water into it, to scrub it, and to
make it as clean and sweet as i^ossible. In good dairies no utensil is allowed
to remain for a moment dirty, but hot water and clean brushes are always
close at hand to scrub the pails and make them almost as white as snow.
The dairywoman probably knows nothing about the nature of the ferment,
which is rapidly formed when a little milk is left at the bottom and adhering
to the sides of the wooden milk pails ; she is unconscious that here, as in the
vinegar process, the conditions most favorable to chemical change are present,
and that the sugar of the milk, in contact with plenty of air and porous wood,
is rapidly changed into lactic acid, while at the same time a peculiar milk
ferment is produced ; all this may be a jjerfect mystery to her, but, never-
theless, guided by experience, she thoroughly avoids everything that favors
the production of ferment, or taint, as she calls it, by leaving no vessel
uncleaned, by scalding all that have been in use with boiling water, and if
ever so little milk be accidentally spilt on the floor of the dairy, taking
care that it is at once removed, and the spot where it fell washed with
clean water.
It is, indeed, surprising how small a quantity of ferment taints a large
quantity of milk. The most scrupulous cleanliness, therefore, is brought into
constant play by a good dairywoman, who never minds any amount of trouble
in scalding and scrubbing her vessels, and takes pride, as soon as possible
after her cheeses are safely lodged in the presses, in having the dairy look as
clean and tidy as the most fastidious can wish. It is a pleasure to see one
of these hard-working women at work, especially as such a sight is not often
witnessed, slovenly dairymaids being unfortunately in a majority. This
being the case, we should encourage the use of tin pails and tin or brass
cheese tubs. Wooden pails, &c., are very good in the hands of a tidy dairy-
maid, but not otherwise. There is much less labor in thoroughly cleaning a
tin or brass vessel than a wooden one, and boiling-hot Avater is not then
required. Wood, being a porous material, inevitably absorbs more or less of
the milk ; tin or brass does not. The milk thus absorbed cannot be removed
by simple washing. Inasmuch as all ferments are destroyed by water at the
temperature of 212°, it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly
boiling ; and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking,
314 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
though they may have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty
when the kettle is really boiling. This remark applies to some educated as
well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing noise of the tea-
kettle accompanied by a certain amount of vapor for a sign that water is in
a state of ebullition ; so that if you would drink good tea you must be careful
to whom you trust to make it.
In some dairies of Cheshire it is customary to paint the wooden cheese
tubs in the interior. I confess I do not like this at all; lead paint is
not a very desirable thing to be used in connection with cheese; and I
am glad to find that the best dairy farmers are decidedly averse to this
proceeding. *
Milk sometimes gets tainted by the close proximity of pig-sties or water-
closets, or by underground drains. Not very long ago I visited a dairy in
Wiltshire, where every possible care was taken by the dairymaid to produce
good cheese ; but I noticed a peculiarly disagreeable smell in the dairy, and
on making inquiries I found that there was a cesspool close at hand, which
certainly tainted the mill:, and rendered the making of good cheese an impos-
sibility. In the third place, I would notice that if dairies are not well situ-
ated,— if they have, for instance, a south aspect, so that a proper low temper-
ature in summer cannot be maintained,— the milk is apt to turn sour and to
make sour cheese. It is important, therefore, that dairies should be built
with a northei'n aspect.
These are some of the circumstances that spoil the cheese even before it
is separated from the milk. The remedies are obvious. It is only with
respect to the latter point— that of milk getting sour, that I would offer a few
observations. If the situation of the dairy is bad, and a new dairy cannot be
erected, we should employ all possible means to prevent the milk from getting
warm. We should keep it in shallow tins or leads, or, better still, as I have
seen in some parts of Somersetshire, in shallow tin vessels with a double bot-
tom, through which cold water may be run during the warm part of the sea-
son. By this means we can keep the milk at a considerably lower tempera-
ture than we should otherwise be able to do. Having seen nitre and salt used
with great advantage to prevent cream from turning sour, I would further
suggest that they might probably be found serviceable in the same manner
for the keeping of milk if used in moderate quantities. Some people, how-
ever, maintain that milk requires to become sour before it can properly be made
into cheese. A great deal has been said and written with respect to the great
utility to the dairymen of an instrument by means of which the amount of
acid in sour milk might be accurately and readily determined. A careful
study of the action of rennet on milk, however, has led me to the conclusion
that the more carefully milk is prevented from getting sour, and, consequently
the less opportunity there is for the use of an acidometer, the more likely the
cheese is to turn out good. Indeed, the acidometer appears to me a useless
instrument— a scientific toy which can never be turned to any practical account.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 315
If by accident the milk has become sour, the fact soon manifests itself suffi-
ciently to the taste. An experienced dairymaid will even form a tolerably
good opinion of the relative proportions of acid in the milk on different days
and arrange her proceedings accordingly. Moreover, the knowledge of the
precise amount of acid in the milk does not help us much. When milk has
turned sour, the best thing to do is to hasten on the process of cheese-making
as much as possible.
II. PKACTICAL FAUI^S COMMITTED DUEING THE MAKING OF CHEESE.
1. Under the second head I would observe, first, that sufficient care is not
bestowed upon noticing the temjDcrature at which the milk is " set," or " run,"
as it is called in Gloucestershire. Thermometers, indeed, are seldom in use.
Even where they are hung up in the dairy, they are more frequently regarded
as curious but useless ornaments than trustworthy guides, and therefore are
seldom put into requisition. In fact, most dairymaids are guided entirely by
their own feelings ; and as these are as variable as those of other mortals, the
temperature of the milk when it is " set " (that is where the rennet is added)
is often either too high or too low. They mostly profess to know the tem-
perature of the milk to a nicety, and feel almost insulted if you tell them that
much less reliance can be placed on the indications of ever so experienced a
hand than upon an instrument which contracts and expands according to a
fixed law, uninfluenced by the many disturbing causes to which a living body
is necessarily subjected.
It is really amusing to see the animosity with which some people look upon
the thermometer. It is true that there are not many dairies in which it may
not be found ; but if we took pains to ascertain in how many of these it is in
constant use, I believe that the proportion would not exceed five per cent.
This is a great pity, for a tolerably good one can now be bought or replaced
at a trifling cost.
I have spoken frankly but unfavorably of the acidometer. With equal
frankness I express my regret that the use of the thermometer is not
more general, as I believe it is indispensable for obtaining a uniformly
good product.
If the temperature of the milk when the rennet is added, is too low, the
curd remains too soft, and much difficulty is experienced in separating the
whey. If, on the other hand, the temperature is too high, the separation is
easily effected, but the curd becomes hard and dry. The amount of water
which is left in the curd when it is ready to go into the cheese-presses, to some
extent indicates whether a proper temperature has been employed. When
this has been too low, the curd will contain more than fifty per cent, of mois-
ture ; when too high, sometimes less than thirty-six per cent. How variable
is this proportion of water (chiefly due to the whey in the curd) will appear
from the following determinations made in the same dairy on the four follow-
ing days :
316
Practical Dairy Husba^^dry.
amount of water in curd when ready to go into the vat.
Percentage of water iu 1st Ciieese ,^f.o
" 2d Cheese 41 4Q
" " 3d Cheese SR 20
" 4LhCheese '•■'■^•^^^^^^"''^^'^.^m
In this dairy the thermometer was not in daily use, and the heat employed
m makmg the fourth cheese was evidently too high, for in good Cheddar
when ready for sale the amount of moisture is hardly less than in this curd
when put into the vat. The cheese from these four specimens of curd was
made according to the Cheddar system. Five other specimens gave the fol-
lowmg proportions of water :
PERCENTAGE OP WATER IN CURD WHEN READY TO GO INTO THE VAT.
1st specimen, percentage of water 5957
2d " " «
f' „ 56.93
.„ „ 53.40
ff " " 5280
'''' " " " 50.01
These were produced according to the custom of Gloucestershire and
Wiltshire, at a temperature varying from 72= to 75°; but, not having taken
the observations myself, I am unable to speak more precisely. This much,
however, is quite certain, that the lower temperature at which the cheese is
usually made in Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, when compared with the
Cheddar system, fully accounts for the large proportion of water that is
found in curd made after the Gloucester or Wiltshire fashion. The cheese
made from these five curds was best at the dairy in which I found the lowest
proportion of water in the curd. The differences here noticed, however, are
due not only to the higher or lower temperature employed, but also to the
ti-ouble and the time bestowed in breaking up the curd. Other circumstances
being equal, the more thoroughly curd is broken up, and the longer time is
occupied in this process, the more whey will pass out, and the better the
cheese is likely to become. I consider fifty per cent, of moisture rather
under the average, and fifty-three to fifty-four per cent, a proper quantity of
water to be contained in the curd when it is vatted to form a thin or moder-
ately thick cheese. In making thick cheese, it should not have more than
forty-five per cent of moisture. Fifty-seven or fifty-nine and a-half per cent.,
the proportions of water in the first and second specimens of curd, are too
high even for a thin cheese.
Curd being a very peculiar and delicate substance, which is greatly
affected by the temperature to which it is exposed, I directed some special
experiments to the investigation of its properties. First, I coagulated new
milk at 60' Fahrenheit, and found that at such a low temperature it took
three hours to complete the process, though the rennet was added in a very
large excess. The curd remained tender, and the whey could not be properly
separated. Milk at 65° F., on addition of rennet, curdled in two hours ; but
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 317
the curd, as before, remained tender, even after long standing. At 70° to
72° F. it only took from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, and the curd
now separated in a more compact condition. The process was more expe-
ditions, and the curd in better condition, when the temperature ranged from
80° to 84°. At 90° the rennet curdled the milk in twenty minutes, and at
100° F. an excess of rennet coagulated the milk in about a quarter of an
hour, separating the curd in a somewhat close condition. By heating the
curd in the whey to 130° F., I find it gets so soft that it runs like toasted
cheese, and becomes quite hard on cooling. The limits of temperature
between which curd can be improved and deteriorated in texture are there-
fore not very wide. The exact temperature to be adopted depends upon the
description of cheese that is wanted — a lower range, e. g. 72° to 75°, being
desirable when a thin cheese is made ; while for tinck cheese, such as Ched-
dar, it should vary from 80° to 84°; 80° being best adapted to warm
weather, and a little increase in the heat desirable in the cold season. After
a portion of the whey has been separated, it is advisable to scald the curd
and to raise the temperature of the whole contents of the cheese-tub to 95°
or 100°, but certainly not higher. I have seen much injury done to cheese
by using too high a temperature in the making.
Secondly, apart from this influence of temperature, cheeses are often
deteriorated by the frequently imperfect separation of the whey from the
curd ; by hurrying on too much the operation of breaking ; and by too great
an anxiety to get the curd vatted. The whey requires time to drain off
properly, and hence the Somersetshii-e plan is a good one — to expose the
curd for some time to the air, after it has been sufficiently broken and been
gathered again and cut in slices of moderate size. A great deal of whey
runs off, and the curd, moreover, is cooled, and runs less risk of heating too
much after it leaves the presses.
When the whey has been ill-separated from the curd, no amount of press-
ure will squeeze out the excesss of whey, which then causes the cheese to
heave and blister, and imparts to it a somewhat sweet and at the same time
strong taste. This taste is always found in an ill-shaped cheese, which bulges
out at the sides, the interior of which will be found to be full of cavities, and
far from uniform in texture. Many cheeses imported from America are evi-
dently spoiled in this way, for they are often full of holes, have a strong
smell, and contain too much moisture — sure indications that the whey was
not pi'operly sepai'ated. The sweet taste is given to the cheese by part of
the sugar of milk, of which a good deal is found in whey ; another portion
of this, on entering into fermentation, foi-ms, among other products, carbonic
acid gas, which, in its endeavor to escape, heaves up the semi-solid curd, and
causes it to blister, producing the numerous apertures of considerable size
which are found in badly-made cheese. If the cheese is colored with annatto,
the excess of whey at the same time causes a partial separation of the color-
ing matter, so that more color collects in some parts than in others, and the
318 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
cheese assumes that unequal condition in which it is called tallowy. A uni-
form color and perfect shape are therefore to a certain extent indications of a
superior quality ; while mottled, mis-shaped cheese, almost invariably proves
tallowy, and in flavor, sweet when young, and very strong when older. The
danger of leaving too much whey in the curd is especially great in warm
weather, for it is then that the fermentation of the sugar of milk proceeds
most rapidly.
There are three precautions to be taken against an undue proportion of
whey in the curd :
1. Plenty of time should be allowed for the whey to drain off properly.
2. Before the rennet is added, the milk should be heated to a temperature
of 72° to 75° for thin, or of 80® to 84° for thick cheese.
3. The best preventive is the practice of slip-scalding, as it is called. The
operation, which is highly recommended by Mr. Harding, one of our best
Cheddar cheese-makers, and extensively practised in Somersetshire, consists
of heating a portion of the whey, and adding it or hot water to the curd,
while it is still covered with some of the whey, until the temperature of the
whole be raised to from 95° to 100°. This has the effect of making the curd
run together into a much smaller compass, and enables the dairymaid to draw
off the whey more perfectly and with very much less trouble than by the
common method. If well done, no injury, but every advantage, results from
this practice. The curd, when slip-scalded, settles down very readily, and
its closer condition implies that it does not contain so much whey as it did
before scalding. Hence, no skewers are required to drain off the whey from
cheese that has been slip-scalded, and a great deal of subsequent labor and
anxiety is avoided by this simple process. Slip-scalding, however, ought to
be carefully performed, and the hot whey or water poured slowly upon the
curd by one person, while another stirs up the contents of the cheese-tub, so
as to ensure a uniform temperature throughout. The necessity for these pre-
cautions will be best understood from the following explanation : When curd
broken up and cut into slices, is suddenly and incautiously scalded with boil-
ing water, the outer layer of the slices first melts and then becomes hard,
enveloping the interior, which remains quite soft and full of whey. This
hard covering acts like a waterproof wrapper, and prevents the escape of the
whey, however strongly the curd may be pressed afterwards; hence the
importance of a gradual and careful admixture of the hot whey. Better still
is it to employ one of Coquet's jacketed tin or brass cheese-tubs, into the
hollow bottom of which steam may be let in, and the curd and whey be
raised by degrees to the desired temperature. This utensil is to be strongly
recommended to all who adopt the Cheddar mode of cheese-making in their
dairies.
Cheese is also spoiled by breaking up the curd too rapidly and carelessly.
This delicate substance requires to be handled by nimble and experienced
fingers, and to have a great amount of patient labor bestowed upon it.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
319
Daii-ymaids, as a class, break up the curd in far too great a hurry. In conse-
quence of their careless treatment some portions of the curd are broken into
fragments so small that they pass into the Avhey when this is drawn off, while
others are not sufficiently broken up and remain soft. The result is, that the
curd is not uniform in texture, and that less cheese and of inferior quality is
produced than when the curd is first cut very gently into large slices, and then
broken up by degrees either by hand or machinery into small fragments.
COMPOSITION OF WHEY.
No. 1.
No. 2.
No. 3.
No. 4.
92.95
.65
92.65
.68
92.60
.55
92.75
.39
1.20
.81
.96
.87
4.55
.65
5.28
.58
5.08
.81
5.13
.86
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
.19
.48
.13
.41
.15
.36
5.14
.41
No. 5.
Water,
Butter (pure fatty matters),
*Nitrogeiious substances (caseine and al- }
bnmen, f
fMilk-siigar and lactic acid,
Mineral matter (ash),
*Containing nitrogen,
fContaining free lactic acid,.
92.950
.490
1.425
4.491
.644
100.000
.228
.120
No. 6.
No. 7.
No. 8.
No. 9.
No. 10.
"Water,
Butter (pure fatty matters),
*Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al-
bumen,
fMilk-sugar and lactic acid
Mineral matters (ash),
92.95
.29
1.01
5.08
.67
93.150
.546
1.056
4.662
.586
92.95
.24
.81
5.27
.73
93.30
.31
1.01
4.68
.70
*Containing nitrogen,
fContaining free lactic acid,.
100.00
.16
.54
100.000
.169
None.
100.00
.131
.39
100.00
.16
.41
93.25
.26
.91
4.70
100.00
.148
.41
No. 11.
No. 12.
No. 13.
No. 14.
No. 15.
"Water
92.85
.29
.93
5.03
.90
93.35
.25
.91
5.00
.49
92.70
.31
.96
5.31
.72
93.15
.14
.91
5.06
.74
93.10
Butter (pure fatty matters)
.14
*Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al- )
bumen, )
.76
5.31
.69
*Containinf nitrogen,
100.00
.151
.60
100.00
.148
.43
100.00
.15
.40
100.00
.148
.48
100.00
.123
fContaiuin"' free lactic acid,
.46
The whey which separates from curd that has been gently broken up is as
bright as Rhenish wine, provided the milk has been curdled at the proper
temperature by a sufficient quantity of good rennet. On the other hand, if
the curd has been broken up carelessly in too great a hurry, the whey is more
or less milky, and separates on standing, a large quantity of fine curd of the
choicest character, for this fine curd is very rich in butter. Thus the best
320
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
part of the ciird, instead of becoming incorporated Avith the cheese, finds its
way into the whey leads. Be the curd, however, broken up ever so gently,
and tlie whey drawn off ever so carefully, the latter always throws up, on
standino;, some cream, which it is worth while to make into butter. But the
quantity of whey butter made in good dairies is very insignificant in com- 1
parison with that produced where less attention is paid to the breaking of the
curd. I know it to be a fact, that in some dairies four times as much whey
butter is made as in others. Where much whey butter is made the cheese is
seldom of first-rate quality. Believing that this is a matter of some import-
ance, I have visited many dairies, and repeatedly watched dairymaids break-
ing the curd, and noticed the gentle, patient manner in which a clever woman
goes to work, and the hurried, dashing proceedings of a slovenly girl. On
these occasions I have taken samples of the whey, and submitted them after-
wards to analysis. The results, as recorded in the preceding tables, show
how much the whey of different dairies varies in chemical composition as
well as in physical character.
COMPOSITION OF WHET TAKEN AT THREE DIFFERENT PERIODS.
Water,
Butler (purefal)
■^Albviiiiiiioiis compounds,.
Milk-simiir and liictic acid,
Miueralmatters (ash),
*Containing nitrogen,
No. 16.
1st SAMPLE.
92.90
.18
.94
5.30
.68
100.00
.15
No. 17.
2d SAMPLE,
TAKEN 10 MINUTES
AFTER 1st SAMPLE.
92.25
.18
.94
5.03
.60
100.00
.15
No. 18.
3d SAMPLE,
TAKEN 20 MINUTES
APTER 1st SAMPLE.
93.55
.03
.94
4.83
.66
100.00
.15
When it is remembered that milk of good quality contains from three
and a-half to four per cent, of butter, it will be readily seen that where
samples of whey contain more than one-half per cent, of butter, the cheese
is deprived of a very considerable portion of its most valuable constituent,
and that its quality must therefore depend in a great measure on the care
with Avhich the curd is broken up and the manner in which the whey is
drawn off. In some samples the amount of butter is so trifling that it is not
considered worth the trouble to gather the cream and to make whey-butter.
In the dairies in which this happy state of things exists excellent cheese is
made. When the whey first separates from the curd it is always more or
less turbid, but by degrees it becomes clearer ; and if sufficient time is
allowed, and it is then tapped off without disturbing the curd, it runs off
almost as clear as water. By this means nearly the whole of the butter may
be retained in the cheese. In order to place this beyond a doubt, I exam-
ined the whey which Mr. Keevil, the inventor of the excellent cheese-making
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 321
apparatus which bears his name, allowed me to take on the occasion of a
visit which I recently paid to his dairy farm at Laycock, near Chippenham.
One sample of whey was taken at the stage in which it was usually tapped
off in Mr. Keevil's dairy ; the second when the whey had become a little
brighter, about ten minutes after the first ; and the third about twenty
minutes after the first. It then was as clear as water. These three samples
when analyzed gave results as shown on preceding page.
The first two samples are almost identical in composition j they both
contain very little butter, but, small as that quantity is,, it can be further
reduced to a mere trace by letting the whey stand a little longer. In prac-
tice it may for other reasons not be desirable to let the whey stand at rest
quite so long as the third sample stood ; and a dairymaid may congi*atulate
herself when she succeeds in breaking up the curd so carefully that the whey
contains as little butter as that made under Mr, Keevil's personal direction
and excellent management.
It may perhaps be supposed that the successful manner in which the
butter is retained in the cheese in Mr. Keevil's dairy is entirely due to the
use of his patent apparatus, and that by its introduction any dairymaid may
be enabled to make good cheese. But this supposition is not correct.
Keevil's apparatus, useful and good as it is in many respects, is no safe-
guard against carelessness. Cheese is spoiled with, as well as without it.
It does not supersede patience and skill, but its merit consists in saving a
great deal of hard labor and time. Beyond this, I may say, without dis-
paragement to his ingenious contrivances for breaking the curd, straining
off the whey, and other appliances, that it effects nothing which may not be
done by hand. But this saving of time and hard labor is a great merit in
an apparatus which can be bought at no great cost. Where from thirty to
forty milking cows are kept, it may be safely recommended ; in smaller
dairies there may not be sufficient vise for it. Having made frequent trial of
Keevil's apparatus, I am anxious that its true merits should be known, but
no unreasonable expectations be entertained. It has been said that it makes
more and better cheese than can be made by hand. My own opinion is, that
it makes neither more or less, neither better or worse cheese than a skillful
dairymaid will make by hand, and that a careless one is as likely to spoil
her cheese when using this apparatus as when making it according to her
own fashion.
Some of the very best and some of the very worst of cheeses which I
have examined were made in dairies where Keevil's apparatus is in daily
use. The superior character of the one cheese is as little a proof of the
merits of Keevil's apparatus as is the bad quality of the other an evidence
against it.
Again, I may point to the composition of the whey analyses marked No.
2, No. 3, No. 8 and No. 14, in the preceding large table, and to the three
whey analyses to which I have just referred :
21
322 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
No. 3, containing .68 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keeytl's
apparatus.
No. 16, containing .18 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's
apparatus.
No. 18, containing .03 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's
apparatus.
Here, then, we have two samples of whey very poor in butter, and one
sample containing more butter than any of the seventeen which I analyzed.
On the other hand :
No. 3, containing .55 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand.
No. 8, containing .24 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand.
No. 14, containing .14 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand.
Here, again, we have two well-separated samples of whey, and one rich in
butter, all three being made from curd broken by hand.
Passing on from the loss of butter to that of the curd itself, I find that,
although no doubt some fine curd is lost when the whey is very milky in
appearance, yet as a rule this loss is small in most dairies. Indeed, my
analyses prove positively that whey seldom contains much caseine or curd
which might be retained by ever so careful filti-ation. I have filtered whey
from good milk through the finest blotting paper, and obtained it as bright
as crystal. On heating the perfectly clear whey to the boiling point, how-
ever, a considerable quantity of a white, flaky substance, resembling in every
respect albumen, or the white of egg, made its appearance. Collected on a
filter, washed with distilled water, dried at 212° F., and weighed, this albu-
minous or curd-like substance amounted on the average to about .9 or nearly
one per cent, in good milk ; in very rich milk there may be a little more, in
poor a little less. This albuminous matter is contained in the whey in
a state of perfect solution, and differs from caseine or curd in not being
coagulated by rennet. I have called it an albuminous matter, because,
like albumen, it separates in flakes from the whey at the temperature of
boiling watei-. Any one may prove the existence of this substance, which,
however bright the whey may be, it invariably deposits in abundance at the
boiling point.
Assuming, then, .9 to be the average proportion of this albuminous mat-
ter in whey, and deducting this proportion from the total amount of nitro-
genized substances in the eighteen samples of whey, we obtain the amount
of curd held in mechanical suspension. Thus we get for
No. 1 whey, .30 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 2, 4, 8 and 15 whey, none.
No. 3 and 13 whey, .06 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 5 whey, .525 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 6 and 9 whey, .11 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 7 whey, .156 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 10, 12 and 14 whey .01 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 11 whey, .03 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
No. 16, 17 and 18 whey, .04 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. • 323
Thus only in one sample out of eighteen there was about one-half jDer
cent, of card held in mechanical suspension, and one sample containing three-
tenths per cent., all the other samples, practically speaking, containing no
suspended curd. Thus it is not so much the curd as the butter which is lost
when whey is badly separated from the curd.
4. When the curd has become sufficiently consolidated and is ready to be
vatted, it is crumbled down into small fragments. For this operation every
dairy should be furnished with a curd mill, a simple and inexpensive contri-
vance, which saves much labor, and produces, generally speaking, a more
uniform material than the hand.
5. Cheese is also spoiled occasionally by badly made rennet, that is, ren-
net which is either too weak or has a disagreeable smell. In the one case
the curd does not separate completely, and that which separates remains
tender ; in the other the milk is tainted, and the flavor of the cheese is aifected.
The rennet used in different parts of England varies exceedingly in
strength and in flavor. Even in the same locality the usage differs on adja-
cent farms. Although I have in my possession some dozens of rennet recipes,
which were given to me by experienced dairymaids, each as the very best, I
shall not give a single recipe for making rennet, as my object is rather to
elucidate chemical principles than to prescribe details ; and also because, as
long as the smell of the rennet is fresh, and a sufficient quantity is used, it
matters little, in ray opinion, how it is made.
The ordinary practice in Cheshire is to make rennet fresh CA^ery morn-
ing by taking a small bit of dried skin, infusing it in water, and using
this infusion for one day's making. In Gloucestershire and Wiltshire a
supply is made for the pickled veils, which lasts for two or three months.
Generally the rennet is made in these counties twice in the season. I have
had a good deal of discussion with practical men resjDCcting the comparative
merits of these two methods. The Cheshire farmers almost unanimously
object that the rennet does not keep well when made in any quantity of
pickled veils. This, however, is quite a mistake. I have in my possession
some rennet which is as nicely flavored now as it was some nine months ago,
when it was made. It has, of course, a peculiar animal odor, but nothing
approaching a putrid smell. The spices which are used in some localities,
such as cloves and lemons, tend very much to keep the rennet in a good con-
dition and give it an agreeable flavor. The objection, then, of the Cheshire
farmers, that rennet, when a supply is made, does not keep, and spoils the
flavor of cheese, is certainly untenable. I am much inclined to consider the
practice of Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, of making a considerable supply
of rennet, a good one ; for, when once the strength of the rennet has been
ascertained, it is merely necessary to take the proper quantity, one or two
cupfuls, to produce the desired effect with certainty ; whereas, when the
rennet is made day by day, there is not the same certainty of obtaining an
infusion of imifoi'm strensrth.
324 , Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Scientific and practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is
held in solution by a small quantity of alkali ; that when in warm weather
milk curdles, lactic acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from
a portion of the sugar of milk ; and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali
which holds the caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk.
Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the
sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates spon-
taneously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of
rennet, in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the
removal of the free alkali by lactic acid.
This theory, however, is not quite consistent with facts. The caseine in
milk cannot be said to be held in solution by free alkali ; for, although it is
true that milk often has a slightly alkaline reaction, it is likewise a fact that
sometimes perfectly fresh milk is slightly acid. We might as well say, there-
fore, that the caseine is held in solution by a little free acid, as by free alkali.
!N'ewly drawn milk, again, is often perfectly neutral ; but, whether milk be
neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution,
which cannot, therefore, depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that
milk, when it turns sour, curdles very readily. It is not the fact that a good
deal of acid curdles milk which I dispute, but the assumption that the caseine
in milk is held in solution by free alkali. The action of rennet upon milk,
then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have
treated of this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as fer-
ments, rennet, it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free
lactic acid, I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated,
and not simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh
and neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is per-
fectly neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded
in separating the curd by rennet ; and, what is more, obtained a whey which
had an alkaline reaction.
What may be the precise mode in which rennet acts upon milk, I do not
presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui generis, which as yet is
only known by its eflects. We at present are even unacquainted with the
precise chemical character and the composition of the active principle in
rennet, and have not even a name for it. Finding the effect of rennet upon
milk to be diffei'ent from that which I expected, I made a number of experi-
ments, which may here find a place.
1st Experiment. — To a pint of new milk, slightly alkaline to test-paper,
and of 60° Fahr., one-fourth ounce of rennet was added.
Result — No coagulation after three hours.
Another quarter ounce of the same rennet was then added.
Mesidt — The milk coagulated one hour after this addition, but the caseine
was by no means well separated, and remained tender and too spongy, even
after twenty-four hours. The whey was slightly alkaline.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 325
2d Exp.— 1^0 another pint of milk, neutral to test-paper, I added one-half
ounce of the same rennet. The temperature of the milk was 60", as before.
Hesult — The curd separated (though imperfectly) after three hours. The
whey was neutral.
N. B. — It will be seen that the curd separated more readily from milk
which was neutral, than from that which was alkaline.
3£? Exp. — To two pints of skimmed milk (twenty-four hours old), and
very slightly acid, I added one-half ounce of rennet. Temperature of milk
59° Fahr.
Mesult — Curd separated in two hours ; reaction of whey the same as that
of the milk.
Thus, if the milk is slightly sour, rennet separates the curd more readily
than when it is neutral, though the temperature may be low.
Uh Exp. — To one pint of milk, slightly alkaline, and heated to 82" Fahr.,
one-fourth ounce of rennet was added.
Mesult — The milk coagulated in twenty minutes ; the whey was slightly
alkaline.
Mh Exp. — To one pint of milk heated to 100°, and neutral on reaction,
one-half ounce o£ rennet was added.
Mesult — Milk coagulated in one-quarter of an hour ; whey perfectly
neutral.
Qth Exp. — Added to one pint of milk one-fourth ounce of rennet. The
tempex'ature of milk was 110° ; its reaction alkaline.
Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey was alkaline.
^th Exp. — Milk was raised to 120° Fahr., and one-fourth ounce of rennet
added to one pint of milk, which was slightly alkaline to test-paper,
Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey had the same reaction
as the milk.
^th Exp. — One pint of milk was heated to 130°, and one-fourth ounce of
rennet added.
Mesult — Curd separated in twenty minutes ; whey had the same reaction
as milk.
The experiment was repeated, and found correct.
It will thus appear that too high a temperature is not so favorable to the
coagulation of the milk as a less elevated one. The separation, which at
120° took place in ten minutes, at 130° occupied twenty minutes.
9^A Exp. — Heated one pint of milk to 150°, added one-fourth ounce of
rennet.
Mesult — Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours.
lO^A Exp. — Heated milk to 140°, added rennet.
Mesult — No coagulation.
Wth Exp. — Heated milk to 135°, added rennet.
326
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Mesuli—No coagulation took place, even after three hours. I then added
another quarter ounce ; the milk by this time had cooled down, and the fresh,
quantity of rennet caused the separation of curd in less than twenty minutes.
Thus, at 120°, milk coagulates most readily; at 130% it takes a some-
what longer tmie ; and at 135°, and upwards, it ceases to coagulate.
12^A Mcp.-Reated one pint of milk to boiling point, add'ed one-fourth
ounce ot rennet.
Hesuli—No curd had separated when examined, after twenty-four hours'
standing.
13th mp.-Heated another pint of milk to boiling point, and added one-
fourth ounce of rennet.
Hesiclt—Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours. I then added a
little more fresh rennet to the cooled milk, and again gently heated it, when
the curd separated in less than one-quarter of an hour.
Thus the temperature of boiling water, and even a much lower heat
destroys the action of the rennet, but does not so permanently chano-e the
caserne of milk that it cannot be separated. "^
The whey in the last experiment, again, was neutral, like the milk.
Uth Exp.— Ho one pint of fresh milk I added ten grains .of carbonate of
potash, raised the temperature to 88° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce
of rennet.
Result-Qxxxd separated in half an hour. The milk and the whey were
strongly alkaline. After twenty-four hours the whey was neutral, and then
it became acid by degrees.
l^thExp.-Ho one pint of milk I added twenty grains of carbonate of
potash, heated to 90° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce of rennet
Remlt-T\^ curd separated in half an hour, but not so perfectly as in the
precedmg experiment, and in a softer condition. The whey was more milky
m appearance, and strongly alkaline. Examined after twenty-four hours'
standing, it was found to be neutral ; after a lapse of two days, it was acid.
Even a considerable quantity of an alkali, therefore, does not prevent the
coagulation of milk by rennet.
\Uh Bxjx—To another pint of milk I added an unweighed quantity of
potash heated to 84°, and then one-fourth ounce of rennet.
Hesult—No coagulation took place.
Much more alkali was used in this experiment than in the two preceding •
an excess of alkali, therefore, prevents the separation of curd by rennet. '
11th Exp.— To some milk, sufficient tartaric acid was added to make it
distinctly acid.
Result— -No coagulation took place in the cold. On the application of
heat, the milk coagulated but imperfectly.
mh Exp.— To another portion of milk I added a good deal of tartaric acid.
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 327
Besult—Ihe, milk coagulated after some time, but imperfectly ; on raising
the temperature, more curd fell down.
In order to precipitate the caseine from milk by tartaric acid, it is thus
necessary to add a very large excess of acid, and at the same time to raise
the temperature of the milk.
These experiments prove thus —
a. — ^That the action of rennet on milk is not the same as that of an acid, inas-
much as rennet coagulates new milk without turning it sour in the
least degree.
h. — ^That rennet can precipitate curd from milk, even when purposely made
alkaline.
c. — That the whey of milk, when produced from perfectly sweet or neutral
milk, is at first perfectly sweet or neutral, but rapidly turns sour. If
made from milk having an alkaline reaction, the whey at first is alka-
line ; when from milk slightly acid, the whey likewise is slightly acid.
d. — That rennet ceases to coagulate milk at about 135°, and upwards.
e. — That the action of rennet upon milk is more energetic when the milk is
slightly acid. This, perhaps, is the reason why some persons recom-
mend putting some sour whey into the milk before or after adding
the rennet.
/. — That an excess of alkali prevents the coagulation of milk by rennet.
g. — That an excess of acid coagulates milk, but not perfectly in the cold.
h. — That a moderate amount of acid does not coagulate milk in the cold, and
imperfectly at an elevated temperature.
6. Cheese, again, is sometimes spoiled when bad annatto is employed as
a coloring matter. Annatto at the best is a nasty, disagreeable smelling sub-
stance ; it would be well if it were banished altogether from the dairy.
But, so long as a good many people will prefer colored to uncolored cheese,
annatto will be employed for the purpose of imparting a more or less deep
yellow color.
The annatto of commerce is derived from the Orelan tree {Bixa orellana).
The seeds and pulp of this tree appear to contain two coloring matters ; one,
in a pure state, is orange-red, and is called bixin ; the other is yellow, and
called orellin. These coloring matters are insoluble in water, but dissolve
readily in alkalies, and also in fixed oils and fats. Solid annatto, the annatto
cake of commerce, is a preparation, which contains, besides the pure coloring
matter, a great deal of potash or soda, carbonate of lime, pipe clay, earthy
matters and rubbish of various kinds. Soap, train-oil and other disagreeable
smelling and tasting matters are often used in preparing annatto cake.
Hence the annatto of commerce is often a most nauseous material, which,
when put into the cheese tub, is apt to give the cheese a bad taste and an
unsightly color. Far superior to this annatto, and morq handy in its appli-
cation, is the liquid anflatto, which is mainly an alkaline solution of the pure
coloring matter of the JBixa orellana. An excellent solution of that descrip-
328 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
tion is manufactured by Mr. Nichols of Chipj)enham, which is perfectly
clear, has a bright yellow color, and is free from any of the obnoxious and
disagreeable substances which are frequently mixed up with annatto cake,
7. In the next place Iicould observe that cheese is occasionally spoiled if
too much salt is used in curing it. Salt is a powerful antiseptic, that is it
prevents fermentation ; hence we use it for pickling beef and hams. A cer-
tain amount of salt is necessary, not so much for giving a saline taste, as for
keeping in check the fermentation to which cheese, like other animal matters,
is liable. If no salt were used the cheese would putrefy, and acquire a very
strong taste and smell, at least when made in the ordinary way. When an
extra quantity of cream is put to the milk, it is not necessary, or even desi-
rable, to salt the curd much ; we might even do without salt altogether, for
the large amount of fat (butter) in extra rich cheeses, such as Stilton or
Cream Cheddar, sufficiently preserves the caseine.
If salt is employed in excess, the cheese does not ripen properly, or
acquire that fine flavor, which depends upon the fermentation proceeding in
a sufficiently active degree. Too much salt, by checking this chemical
activity, is thus injurious to the proper ripening of cheese. The saline taste
of old cheese, as already explained, is not due so much to the common salt
used in its preparation, as to certain amraoniacal salts which are formed
during the ripening process. It sounds strange, but it is nevertheless the
case, that over-salted cheeses do not taste nearly so saline when kept for six
or eight months, as under-salted cheeses kept equally long. If the milk is
very rich, somewhat less salt should be used than when it is poor. On no
account, however, should more than two pounds of salt be used per hundred
weight of cheese ; one and a-half pounds in most cases is quite enough, and
even one pound will be found a sufficient quantity when rich cheeses are made.
8. Lastly, an inferior quality of cheese is sometimes produced when it is
imperfectly salted; that is, when the salt is not properly applied to the
cheese. I have often seen the salt put upon the curd in rough bits ; more
often proper care is not taken to mix the curd with the salt, and the cheese
becomes unequally salted. The consequence is that some particles of the
cheese ferment too much, others too little, and that the portions which are
too much salted do not stick well together, and acquire a dry and crumbly
texture. The salt used in dairies should be of the finest description, and
should be sifted evenly through a fine sieve on the curd, after the latter has
been passed through the curd-mill, and thinly spread in shallow leads to cool.
This plan of spreading the salt saves a good deal of labor, and is greatly to
be preferred to the system of pickling the cheese in brine after it is made, or
of rubbing in salt. When salt is applied, either in solution or by rubbing it
into the cheese after it has been in the presses, the outside is apt to get hard,
and close up too much. It is, of course, desirable to get a good and firm
coat, but, at the same time, the pores should not be tf o much closed, so that
the emanations which proceed from the cheese cannot escape. Thin cheeses
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 329
may be salted after they have been in the press ; but, in making thick cheeses,
it is far better to salt the curd before it is put into the vat.
A rather novel way of salting cheese has lately been made the subject of
experiments in America. As the following communication to the pages of
the Country Gentleman and Cultivator, an American agricultural paper, may
have some interest, I take the liberty of inserting it here :
IMPORTANT EXPERIMENT IN CHEESE-MAKING.
" The dairy season is about commencing again, and I desire the privilege
of a corner in your paper, to give the result of extended experiments in
cheese-making. In the first place I shall take it for granted that the Avhole
process up to salting is well understood, for it is of salting that I wish to
speak in this article.
"In June, 1859, I finished a few cheeses after the following manner:
When my curd was scalded (I practice thorough scalding), I threw into the
vat about four quarts of salt — sometimes only three — for a cheese of fifty to
sixty pounds, stirring thoroughly. Those which went into the hoop before
being well cooled ofi", acted badly ; but when I took time and means to cool
sufficiently, the cheeses were very fine. On the whole, I did not like the
process and abandoned it.
" In 1860 I commenced again, changing the programme as follows : After
scalding I drew off the whey, leaving just enough to float the curd, and
began to cool off, hurrying the process by pumping in cold water and chang-
ing often. Then, to a curd of say sixty pounds, a little more or less, I threw
in sometimes three and sometimes four quarts of salt, and stirred till well
cooled — then drew off the salted whey, and threw it on the compost heap —
put the curd to press, and pressed rapidly and thoroughly. And now for
the result. I lost from my whey tub about three pails of whey and some
salt. I gained in this, that my dripping tub under the press never had a
particle of cream rise upon it, and in having a cheese that gave me no trouble
in curing, and that when sent to market sold for the very highest price, and
called forth the unqualified approbation of dealers as being perfect in all
respects — fine flavored, very solid (not porous), and very fat.
" And now let me talk to the experience of dairymen. In the old-fash-
ioned way of breaking up and salting a curd, more or less bruising of the
cui'd to break the lumps, in order to get the salt evenly distributed, is neces-
sary ; and when put to press the white whey runs off freely, or in other
words the cream runs off, and of course with it the richness of the cheese,
and more or less of its weight ; and if the curd is very dry you are liable to
get your cheese too high salted, if not, the reverse.
" My experiments clearly prove that a curd salted in whey will retain no
more salt than it needs, and that as every particle comes in contact with the
brine through the operation of stirring, no bruising is necessary. Whether
this is the philosophy of it or not, I am not chemist enough to determine,
330 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
but I do know that if there is no discharge of white whey, or cream, it is
retained in the cheese, adding to it both richness and weight as a remunera-
tion for the extra salt and the wasted whey."
III. PKACTICAL EEEOES MADE IK KEEPING CHEESE.
The following are some of the practical mistakes that are occasionally
made after the cheese has left the presses and is j^laced in the store-rooms.
1. Cheese is deteriorated in quality when it is placed in damp or in
badly ventilated rooms.
When beef or mutton is kept for a day or two in a damp and badly venti-
lated i^lace, the meat soon acquires a disagreeable, cellar-like taste. The
same is the case with cheese. Kept in a damp place, it also becomes moldy,
and generates abundance of mites.
In some parts of Cheshire it is a common practice to keep cheese in dark
rooms, carefully shutting out the free access of air. This is an objectionable
jDractice, which no doubt has its origin in the desire to maintain in the store-
rooms a somewhat elevated temperature, and to avoid draughts of cold air.
It is quite true that draughts are injurious to newly-made cheese, and a
somewhat elevated temperature decidedly favors its ripening and the devel-
opment of a fine flavor ; but the one may be avoided, and the other can be
maintained quite well, at the same time that due provision is made for the
admission and circulation of fresh air.
During the first stage of ripening, a good deal of water and other emana--
tions escape ftom the cheeses, which, if not allowed freely to pass away, make
the air damp and injure the flavor of the cheeses. "Why cheese should be
kept in dark rooms is to me a mystery.
2. Cheese newly made is spoiled hy not turning it frequently enough.
Thick cheeses especially require to be frequently turned, in order that the
water which is given oiF from the interior warmer parts of the cheese may
freely escape, and all sides be exposed at short intervals to the air. If this
is neglected, that part which is in close contact with the board on which it
rests becomes smeary and rots, and by degrees the whole cheese is spoiled.
The boards, we need hardly say, should be wiped with a dry cloth from time
to time as well as the cheese.
3, Cheese does not ripen properly, and therefore remains deficient in flavor^
if the temperature of the cheese-room is too low.
The ripening of cheese is essentially a process of fermentation, which may
be accelerated or depressed by a proper or by too low a temperature. Any
temperature under 60° is unfavorable, and should therefore be avoided.
4. Cheese is also spoiled if the temperature of the cheese-room is too high.
If the temperature of the room rises above 75°, the fermentation becomes
so active that a cheese is apt to bulge out at the sides, and to lose the uniform
and close texture which characterises it when good.
.5. Lastly, cheese is sometimes spoiled if the temperature of the cheese-
room varied tod much at different times.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 331
A steady fermentation, which is essential to the proper ripening of the
cheese, can only be maintained in a room which is not subject to great fluc-
tuations in temperature. The more uniformly, therefore, the cheese-room is
heated, the more readily cheese can be brought into the market, and the finer
the quality will be. For this reason hot- water pipes, which give a very steady,
gentle, and lasting lieat, are greatly to be preferred to stoves in cheese-rooms ;
with the latter it is almost impossible to maintain an equable temperature.
The cheeses nearest to the stove, again, are apt to get too much and those
farthest ofi" not enough, heat. Constant attention is moreover required; and
firing in the room is always productive of more or less dust and dirt. These
inconveniences are entirely avoided by the system of heating by hot-water
pipes.
In every dairy hot water is in constant request ; the same boiler which
heats the water for cleaning the dairy utensils may be conveniently connected
with iron pipes that pass in and round the cheese-room. Beyond the first cost
of the iron pipes hardly any extra expense in fuel is thus incurred. An extra
pipe likewise may be introduced which connects the boiler with Coquet's
apparatus, and by this means the curd in the tub may be scalded much more
conveniently and regularly than by pouring hot whey or water over it. I
have not made a sufficient number of observations to say definitely which is
the best temperature to be maintained in a cheese-room; but in my judge-
ment a uniform temperature of 70° to 75° is highly favorable to the ripen-
ing process.
The proper regulation of the temperature of the cheese-room, and the
general plan of heating by hot water, I believe, is one of the greatest of our
recent improvements.
These are some of the practical mistakes which I have noticed in our
dairies. I have endeavored to assign reasons why they must be so regarded,
and have ventured to point out the appropriate remedies, many of which,
however, suggest themselves naturally to any intelligent observer. My
object has been, not so much to write a treatise on cheese-making, as to
enable those interested in dairy operations to read the various treatises and
pamphlets on cheese-making with profit, so as to be able to sift the recom-
mendations which are worth imitating from the heap of empirical rubbish
under which they are too often buried. No directions, however carefully
given, can ever be of much service in an art which, like cheese-making, does
not so much presuppose a great amount of knowledge as practical experience,
dexterity and cleanly habits. Neither skill in manipulation, nor habits of
cleanliness, nor experience can be acquired by reading. A good or a sensible
pamphlet, no doubt, may be read with benefit even by an experienced hand ;
but the very best of treatises, in the nature of things, cannot teach a person
who wants a rule or a receipt for everything, how to make a good cheese. A
good cookery book, no doubt, is a useful literary production, but the best
cookery-book is incapable of teaching an inexperienced person the art of
332 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
making light and wholesome pie-crust. It is the same with cheese-making
as with cookery, as we shall do well to bear in mind.
Lest these observations on publications on cheese-making should seem to
disparage too much the merits of the different authors, I may state distinctly
that a few papers contain valuable and plain directions for making good
cheese ; but I am bound at the same time to confess that the greater number,
and more especially most of the prize essays on cheese-making which I have
read, in my humble opinion, are next to useless to the dairy-farmer, inasmuch
as they generally conta.in nothing good but what every dairy-farmer has long
known ever since he began making cheese — and a great deal besides, which,
though it may appear novel, ingenious or feasible, will at once be condemned
by any man of sound judgement as visionary and utterly impracticable.
There are many topics intimately connected with the manufacture of
cheese on which I have not touched at all, such as the influence of the food on
the quantity and quanlity of milk, an important subject as yet hardly investi-
gated at all. Again, the influence of the race on the production of milk
deserves to be carefully studied, besides various other points on which prac-
tical men may wish to obtain trustworthy information. My passing them
over in silence in the present paper will not, I trust, be taken as an indication
of want of acquaintance with the real, practical wants of the dairy-farmer.
Hitherto scarcely anything directly bearing on dairy-practice has been
done by scientific men ; the whole investigation has, therefore, engaged my
liveliest attention, and brought to light some unexpected chemical facts which
have been recorded in the preceding pages. Others I hope to lay before
the readers of the Journal of the Royal Agricultui;al Society when the
researches still in hand shall be in a sufficiently advanced state to warrant
their publication.
I
VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS.
On Pasture Farms, where the milk is not all sold as new milk, nor used
for fattening calves, the question arises, by what other means it may most
profitably be converted into marketable produce, and there is still a choice
between four different modes of proceeding :
1. The whole milk may be made into cheese.
2. The cream may be skimmed from part of the milk for making butter,
and the skimmed milk added to new milk, and then made into cheese.
3. The whole of the milk may be skimmed and made into skim-milk
cheese, and the cream into butter.
4. The whole milk may be skimmed, and made into skim-milk cheese ; the
cream from the skimmed milk be added to new milk, and made into extra
rich cheese.
The question is, which of these four modes gives the best money return.
Such a purely practical question can be tested satisfactorily in one way only,
that is by actual trials. I therefore gladly availed myself of the kindness of
my friend Mr. Thomas Pboctor, who most liberally placed his dairy at my
command, that I might institute a series of experiments calculated to further
the solution of this inquiry. I am, likewise, much indebted to Mr. Tanner
for the practical assistance which he rendered me by superintending the experi-
ments which were made on a sufficiently large scale to furnish reliable data.
For each experimental cheese an equal quantity of milk was used, consist-
ing of one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk and one hundred and
thirty quarts of morning milk. The first experimental cheese was made on
the 11th of August, 1860; the others on the following days.
In Mr. Pkoctor's dairy at Wall's Court (now in the occupation of Mr.
Richard Stratton) cheese is made in the Cheddar fashion. In making the
different experimental cheeses, the same general process was adopted, being
that usually employed in this dairy.
Immediately after the morning milking, the evening and morning milks
were put together into a Cockney's tin tub, having a jacketed bottom for the
admission of steam or cold water.
The temperature of the whole was slowly raised to 80®, by admitting
steam into the jacketed bottom. Ko annatto was used for coloring ; after the
334 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
addition of the necessary quantity of rennet, the tub was covered with a
cloth and left for an hour. Rennet, it may be remarked, when properly
prepared and added in sufficient quantity, should perfectly coagulate milk at
80" in from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. If the milk fail to be
coagulated within the hour, the curd produced will be too tender, and not
ea^ly separated from the whey without loss of butter and injury to the
quality of the cheese. These results invariably follow when the rennet is not
sufficiently strong, or too little of it is employed.
On the other hand, if the curd is completely separated from milk at 80°
Fahrenheit in twenty to twenty-five minutes, the cheese produced is apt to be
sour or hard. An excess of rennet always has the effect of separating the
curd from the milk too rapidly, and in a hard condition.
As much depends upon the strength of the rennet, it is useful in daily
practice to prepare a large quantity at a time, and to ascertain by a few trials
the proper amount for mixing with a given quantity of milk. In experi-
mental trials, it is absolutely indispensable to know the strength of the
rennet, and to emj^loy the same rennet in all the trials. At Wall's Court we
took special care to fulfil these conditions.
Our plan of proceeding was as follows :— At about half-past eight o'clock,
the ciu-d was partially broken and allowed to subside for about half an hour,
after which the temperature was raised very gradually to 108° Fahrenheit,
by letting steam into the hollow bottom of the cheese-tub ; the curd and
whey, meanwhile, being gently stirred with a wire breaker, so that the heat
was uniformly distributed, and the curd minutely broken. The heat was
kept at 108° for an hour, during which time the stirring was continued ; the
curd, now broken into pieces of the size of a pea, was then left for half an
hour to settle.
The whey was then drawn off by opening a spigot near the bottom of
the tub. As the curd which is obtained by this process is quite tough, it
readily separates from the whey, and no pressure Avhatever is at first requisite
to make the bulk of it run off in a perfectly clear state.
The curd, collected in one mass, was then rapidly cooled and cut across
into large slices, turned over once or twice, and left to drain for half an hour.
As soon as it was tolerably dry and had cooled down considerably, it was
placed under the press and much of the remaining whey removed by pressure.
After this the cheese was broken at first coarsely by hand, and then by the
curd-mill, which divides it into small fragments. A little salt was then added
and thoroughly mingled with the curd.
^ The next operation Avas the vatting. The cheese vat, completely filled
with the broken and salted curd, was covered with a cloth ; the curd was
reversed in the cloth, put back into the vat, covered up and placed in the
press. The cheese cloth was removed several times, and the cheeses were
ready to leave the press on the sixth morning. Mr. Pkoctor's dairy was
furnished with one of Messrs. Cockey's heating apparatus. This apparatus
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 335
not only maintains a uniform temperature in the room in which the cheese is
ripened, but provides a supply of steam, by which the milk and whey may
be kept at any temperature which may be required ; the necessity of removing
a large quantity of milk or whey to a boiler to be heated, that it may impart
the proper temperature to the remainder of the milk or whey in the cheese-
tub, is thus done away with. As the steam is quickly generated, careless
dairymaids sometimes spoil the cheese in a few minutes by allowing the tem-
perature to rise too high. When the curd is overheated, the cheese made
from it is always hard and deficient in flavor.
In using Cockey's jacketed cheese-tub, care should also be taken to stir
up constantly the contents of the tub when steam is admitted into the false
bottom, for the purpose of raising the temperature to about 100", after the
curd has been broken up coarsely. If this precaution is neglected, a portion
of the curd adheres to the heated bottom, and melts. The melted curd pre-
vents the equal distribution of the heat, and by not amalgamating with the
remaining curd produces a cheese which is not uniform in texture, ripens
unequally, and is altogether of an inferior quality. When steam is admitted
into the jacketed bottom of the tub, the dairymaid should not leave her
place for a moment, and constantly keep her hands employed in stirring the
contents of the tub with the shovel wire-breaker. This is rather hard work,
and therefore much better performed by men than by women, many of whom
dislike Cockey's cheese-tub. Where it is in use there is, indeed, greater
risk of the cheese being spoiled than when whey heated in a boiler is added
to raise the contents of an ordinary tub to the required temperature. But it
is manifestly unjust to condemn a useful appai'atus on account of the mischief
which may arise from its misuse.
Cockey's cheese-tub, I have no hesitation in saying, is an excellent appa-
ratus which saves a great deal of labor; but excellent though it may be, I
cannot recommend its use to those who cannot place implicit reliance on the
care and vigilance of the dairyworaan. These women, as a class, are not
willing to alter the plan of their operations, and learn the use of a new appa-
ratus, which, if it saves much labor, still requires some special attention — an
effort which to some minds seems more troublesome than down-right hard
manual labor.
The rennet used in the dairy was made according to the following
receipt : Slice the half of a lemon ; sprinkle it Avith about six ounces of salt,
then pour upon it one quart of boiling water ; cover the A^essel to retain the
steam. When cold put into the liquid one fresh veil ; allow the whole to
stand for two days, then strain the liquid through a fine cloth, and the ren-
net is ready for use. This quantity is deemed sufficient to coagulate six
hundred gallons of milk.
Prepared in this mode, and carefully strained off from the sediment which
makes its appearance in the course of some days, rennet keeps sweet and
efficient for several months.
336 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
experimental cheese no. 1 (whole-milk cheese.)
A cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk
and one hundred and thirty quarts of morning milk as drawn from the cow.
A sample of the mixed morning and evening milk, on analysis, gave the
following results :
Water, 87 . 30
Butter, 3 . 75
*Caseine, 3.31
Milk-sugar and extractive matters, 4.86
Mineral matters (asli), 78
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 53
The whey obtained in this trial was as clear as Rhenish Avine, and con-
tained no suspended curd. It furnished the following analytical results :
COMPOSITION OF "WHET OBTAINED IN MAKING CHEESE NO. 1.
Water, 93 . 25
Butter, 26
^Albuminous conipouiuls, .91
fMilk-sugar, lactic acid, &c., 4.70
Mineral matters (ash), .88
100.00
* Containing nitrogen, .166
\ Lactic acid, .60
This whey, though perfectly clear, like all other samples contained in
solution a considerable quantity of a curd-like substance, Avhich is not coagu-
lated by rennet, but separates in flakes like the white of eggs when the liquid
is raised to the boiling point. In all probability this curdlike substance is
albumen. In the analysis of milk this albuminous compound is given together
with caseine ; and as it constitutes one-fourth to one-third of the caseine men-
tioned in the analysis of milk, much less curd is obtained as cheese than
would be the case if the total quantity of curdlike substances was coagulated
by rennet. I have tried various means of separating this curdlike substance
together with the rest of the curd, in the hope of obtaining thereby a larger
quantity of cheese from a given number of gallons of milk, but have not
succeeded. The only simple way of obtaining this substance is to heat the
milk or whey nearly to 212*, a temperature which of course, would alto-
gether spoil the cheese. It has been said that perfectly clear whey possesses
little nutritive value, but this is a mistake. Not only does such whey contain
nearly the whole of the sugar of milk and bone-producing materials (ash), but
also a considerable quantity of albuminous or flesh-producing compounds held
in solution, besides some butter, the proportion of which, however, is very
small when the operation has been carefully conducted.
On no account, therefore, should the whey be allowed to run to waste.
Mixed with a little barley-meal it constitutes the best food that can be given
to pigs, for it fattens rapidly, and produces the most delicately-flavored bacon.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 337
In this trial two hundred and sixty quarts of milk produced two hundred
and thirty-four quarts of whey.
The cheese was weighed when fresh from the press, and again from time
to time, with a view of ascertaining the loss which it sustained in keeping.
The loss is considerable, as will be seen by the subjoined weighings :
August 17tli (fresh from the press), 613^ lbs.
September 14th m% "
December 14th 57^ "
February 11th 573| "
March 11th 57 "
April 17lh 56 "
Total loss in eight months, 5% lbs., or nine per cent, round numbers.
This cheese was considered quite ripe on the 14th of December, and there-
fore lost one and three-quarter pounds after it was ready for the market. A
portion analysed on the 17th of April, 18G1, gave the following results :
Water, 87 . 85
Butter, 28.91
*Caseiue, 25.00
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.91
fMineral matters (ash), 8.33
100.00
* Containing nitrogen, 4.00
f Containing common salt, .53
EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE KG. 2 (PAETIALLY SKIMMED-MILK CHEESE.)
The second cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of
skimmed milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk. The morning
milk stood thirty-six hours and the evening milk twenty-four hours before
being skimmed. The cream removed measured ten pints, and produced nine
pounds of butter.
A sample of the mixed skim and new milk from which the cheese No. 2
was made, on analysis gave the following results :
Water, 87 . 89
Butter, 3.12
*Caseine, , 2.94
Milk sugar and extractive matters, 5.29
Mineral matters (ash), , 76
100.00
^Containing nitrogen, .47
The whey produced in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty-
eight gallons, and was found to have the following composition :
Moisture, 92 . 85
Butter, 29
*Albuminous compounds, 93
Milk sugar, lactic acid, &c., 5.03
fMineral matters (ash), 90
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 168
t Containing lactic acid V. .".'.". .".! ... .48
22
338 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The cheese No. 2 was made on the 13th of August, 1860, and weighed:
August 21st (fresh from the press), m% lbs.
September 14tli,. 493|
December 14lh, 47
March 11th, 46
April 18th, 45M
July 30th, 44
Total loss in eight months, Q% lbs., or thirteen and a-quarter per cent.
Loss when ready for sale, Z% lbs., or seven per cent.
Analysed on the 30th of July, 1861, having been kept rather longer than ten
months, it had the following composition :
Water, 32 . 88
Butter, 29.25
*Caseine, 29.87
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.92
fMineral matters (ash), 3 . 08
100.00
* Containing nitrogen, 4.78
f Containing common salt, .29
Having been kept much longer than the preceding cheese, it contained five
per cent, less water and cut rather drier. It will be noticed that this cheese
contained very little salt. The dairymaid made a mistake not only in this,
but in all the trials, by using an insufficient quantity of salt ; not more than
about six ounces having been taken for each cheese. The proper quantity of
salt is one pound for every fifty pounds of cheese.
EXPEEIMENTAIi CHEESE KO. 3 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE.)
In this instance two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk were set aside ;
the morning milk stood twenty-four hours, and the evening milk thirty-six
hours before being skimmed. The milk from which the cream was removed
was then made into skimmed-milk cheese ; tAVO hundred and sixty quarts of
milk gave twenty pints of cream, which according to the preceding trial
would have yielded eighteen pounds of butter.
A sample of the skimmed milk from which the Cheese No. 3 was made,
on analysis furnished the following results :
Water 89.00
Butter 1.93
*Caseine 3.01
Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.28
Mineral matters (ash) 78
100.00
* Containing nitrogen, 48
The whey in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty-two
quarts, and had the following composition :
Water 93.15
Butter 14
Albuminous compounds 91
*Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.06
Mineral matters 74
100.00
* Containing lactic acid 48
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 339
The Cheese No. 3 was made on the 15th of August, and weighed :
August 21st (fresh from tiie press) 481,^ lbs.
September l4tli 47 " '
December 14lli 44 '<
February lltb 433/ "
March 11th 43y' u
April 18th .'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'!.'.'.' 43 "
Total loss in eight months, six and a-lialf pounds, or thirteen per cent.
Loss when ready for sale, four and a-half pounds, or nine and one-quarter per cent.
A portion of this cheese was analyzed on the 18th of April, 1861, and
found to consist in one hundred parts of —
Water 3943
-Butter 27.08
*Caseine 30.37
Extractive matters and lactic acid ' '23
fMiueral matters (ash) ', 2.90
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 4.86
f Containing common salt 23
EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE NO. 4 (eXTBA-RICH CHEESe).
The cream from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk was added to two
hundred and sixty quarts of new milk and made into cheese. A sample of
the mixed cream and new milk from which No. 4 was made contained in one
hundred parts :
Water 85.75
Butter 611
*Caseine 2.94
Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.47
Mineral matters (ash) ' .73
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 47
In this trial two hundred and forty-three quarts of whey were produced.
The following is an analysis of the whey obtained in making Cheese No. 4 :
Water 92.95
Butter 65
Albuminous compounds 1 30
■^Milk-sugar and lactic acid 4.55
Mineral matters (ash) ^65
100.00
* Containing lactic acid 48
In comparison with the whey obtained in making the Cheeses No. 1, 2
and 3, this whey is richer in butter and also in albuminous matter. It was
rather milky, and owed its turbid condition to finely-suspended particles of
curd and butter.
The Cheese No. 4 was made on the 15th of May, 1860, and weighed :
August 21st (when it left the press) 70% lbs.
September 14th 70 "
December 14th ' * * 67 "
February 11th .'..'.' 66 "
March lltli .'....'........'..! 66 "
April 18th \\\\ 64 "
July 30th ,. 63 "
340 Practical Dairy Husbandrt.
Total loss in eleven months, eight and tliree-fourths pounds, or twelve and a-half per
cent, in round numbers.
Loss when ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds, or five per cent.
COMPOSITION OF EXTRA-RICH CHEESE NO. 4 ON JULY 30TH, 1861.
Water • • • • 30.53
Butter 41.58
*Caseine 23.38
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.45
•j-Miueral matters (ash) 2.06
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 3.74
f Containing common salt 09
It was considered desirable to repeat these trials, and to make four other
cheese precisely jn the same way in which the preceding four cheeses were
made respectively.
CHEESE KO. 5 (whole-milk CHEESE).
Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk.
COMPOSITION -OF THIS MILK (AUGUST 21ST, 1860).
Water 87.00
Butter 3.99
*Caseine 3.44
Milk-sugar, extractive matter, &c 4.81
Mineral matters (ash) 76
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 55
This milk, it will be seen, differs but slightly in composition from that
used on the 11th of August, for making whole-milk cheese.
COMPOSITION OF WHET FROM CHEESE NO. 5.
Water 92.80
Butter 59
Albuminous compounds 91
Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.04
Mineral matters (ash) 66
100.00
This whey, like that made from Cheese No. 4, was not sufficiently clear,
and contained too much fatty matter in a state of mechanical suspension.
The Cheese ISTo. 5 was made on 21st of August, and weighed:
August 27th (fresh from the press) 61^ lbs.
September 14th 60^ "
December 14th 583| "
March 11th 57 "
Total loss in six and a-half months, four and a-half pounds, or seven and one-fourth
per cent. Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or five and one-fourth
per cent.
COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO, 5 ON THE IItH JULY, 1861.
Water 31.70
Butter 36.18
*Caseine 27.19
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.95
f Mineral matters (ash) 2.98
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 4.35
f Containing common salt 34
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 341
CHEESE NO. 6 (PARTIALLT-SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe).
Made from one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk and one hundred
and thirty quarts of skimmed milk.
COMPOSITION OF MILK FROM WHICH CHEESE NO. 6 WAS MADE.
Water 88.50
Butter 2.43
*Caseine 3.25
Milk-sugar, extractive matters, &c 5.03
Mineral matters (ash) 79
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 52
Ten pints of cream were taken from one hundred and thirty quarts of
milk, and produced nine and one-fourth pounds of butter.
COMPOSITION OP WHEY FROM CHEESE NO 6.
Water 93.05
Butter 40
Albuminous compounds 95
Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4 96
Mineral matters (ash) 64
100.00
This cheese was made on the 18th of August and weighed :
August 24th 53 lbs.
September 14tii 533^ "
December 14th 49^ "
February 11th 49 "
Total loss in six months, four pounds, or seven and a-half per cent.
Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or six per cent.
COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 6, ANALYZED APRIL 22d, 1862.
Water 38.43
Butter 23.28
*Caseine 32.37
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.10
fMineral matters (ash) 3.83
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 5.18
f Containing salt 65
CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe).
Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk, from which the cream
(twenty and one-fourth pints) was taken oif.
COMPOSITION OF SKIM-MILK USED IN MAKING THE CHEESE NO. 7.
Water 89.10
Butter , 2.31
*Caseine 3.50
Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.33
Mineral matters (ash) 77
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 56
The whey from this cheese was perfectly clear, and contained hardly any
butter, as will be seen by the subjoined analysis :
342 Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry.
COMPOSITION OF "VSrHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 7.
Water 93.10
Butter 14
Albuminous compounds 76
*Milk-sugar and lactic acid 5.31
Mineral matters (asli) 69
100.00
* Containing lactic acid 46
This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed :
August 26th 49^ lbs.
September 14tli 49 "
December 14tli 473^ "
March 6th 463^ "
Total loss in six months, three and one-fourth pounds, or six and one-half per cent.
Loss when ready for sale, two and one-half pounds, or five per cent.
COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE).
Water 38.39
Butter 23.21
*Caseine 28.37
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 6.80
Mineral matters (ash) 3.23
100.00
* Containing 4.54
CHEESE NO. 8 (extra RICH CHEESe).
Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk, to which was
added the cream (twenty pints) from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk.
COMPOSITION OF THE MILK FROM WHICH THE CHEESE NO. 8 WAS MADE.
Water 86.73
Butter 4.81
*Caseine 2.69
Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.01
Mineral matters (ash) 76
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 43
COMPOSITION OF THE WHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 8.
Water 92,95
Butter 42
Albuminous compounds 1.01
Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4.95
Mineral matters (ash) 67
100.00
This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed:
August 26th (fresh from the press) 74^ lbs.
September 14th 7311 «
December 14th 71 "
Loss from the time it left the press until ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds,
or five per cent.
No analysis was made of this cheese. .
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 343
These experiments then led to the following results :
Marketable
Cheese. Butter.
Quarts. lbs. lbs.
1. 520 of milk produced (whole-milk) 116
3. " (one-half skimmed) produced 96^^ 18
3. " (all skimmed) produced 90}^ 36
the cream from one- ) ^ , . „,,„„„„ qai/
4. 1040 " \ half being added to [ produced \ 'f^rcheese 138 ! '.
^^au siiiiiimeuj pnjiiuucii
!the cream from one- ) ^ , .
half being added to [■ produced t ^.j V
the other ) '
The cheeses were sent to Messrs. Bridges & Co., extensive cheese fac-
tors at Bristol, who considered No. 1 to be worth seventy shillings per hun-
dredweight ; No. 2, sixty shillings per hundredweight ; No. 3, fifty shillings
per hundredweight.
With respect to the extra-rich Cheese No. 4, Messrs. Bbidges say : " We
have examined the cheese marked No. 4 ; we think it cuts rather richer than
that marked No. 1, but it bears no higher value in the market." In my
paper on the Composition of Cheese, I pointed out the fact that the market
value of cheese does not entirely depend upon the amount of butter which it
contains, I am glad to find this opinion confirmed by the testimony of a
cheese factor whose practical knowledge is extensive.
Mr. Tanner informs me that he has had a long conversation with Mr.
Bridges on the subject of cheese-making, and in his letter to me quotes
several observations made by him on this occasion, which perfectly accord
with remarks made by me in the paper referred to.
Thus Mr. Bridges, speaking within certain limits, considers the richness
of cheese to depend as much upon the mode of making as upon the quantity
of cream in the milk. Too much heat, he says, destroys the cream ; meaning,
no doubt, that too much heat melts some of the butter, which then passes
into the whey. By carelessly manipulating the tender curd, he justly
observes, some of the cream may be washed out and passed into the whey.
This gentleman is also of opinion that the best Cheddar cheese can be made
from good new milk, and therefore considers the addition of cream to milk
of questionable service, and certainly an extravagant practice.
The addition of cream to new milk, no doubt, if not absolutely necessary,
certainly improves the quality of Stilton cheese, but the market value of
Cheddar is not raised materially by such an addition. First-rate cheese-
makers, Mr. Bridges observes, often take some cream from the milk, and
still make a superior quality of cheese (worth more in the market) than less
experienced and careless makers produce from unskimmed milk. He looks
upon the temperature and careful breaking of the curd as the points upon
which the quality of the cheese (Cheddar) mainly depends — apart, of course,
from the influence of the natural richness or poverty of the milk.
Having treated of all these points in detail in my paper on the " Compo-
sition of Cheese," I need not refer to them in particular. These observations
made by Mr. Bridges must be satisfactory to dairymen, as aflTording a prac-
344 Practical Dairy Husbandry,
tical confirmation of the correctness of opinions which I have already pub-
lished, as resulting from my own observations and scientific experiments.
The cheeses produced in these trials were not so good as they might have
been, nor like those of experienced makers, such as Mr. Harding of Marks-
bury, Mr. McAdam of Gorsly Hill, or Mr. Chandos Pole of Derby.
Anxious not in any way to thwart or disconcert the dairymaid, I thouo-ht it
wise to let her have entirely her own way. She certainly made two great
mistakes. To one I have already alluded ; six ounces of salt is not enough
for from fifty to sixty pounds of cheese ; three-quarters to one pound would
have been a better proportion. The second mistake which she made was to
raise the temperature to 108° F. On no account should the heat of the
cheese-tub be allowed to rise above 100° F. The higher the temperature is
raised the more readily the whey passes from the curd, and the less mechan-
ical work is required. The dairy woman may, therefore, be naturally tempted
to save herself trouble to the injury of the cheese.
Although I am a great advocate for the Cheddar system of cheese-making,
I am bound to say that the comparatively lower temperature which the best
Cheshire makers adopt is the main reason of the exceedingly fine aroma
which so favorably characterises their produce.
The finest-flavored cheese which I have ever tasted was made at Ridley
Hall, near Crewe, Cheshire. I have no hesitation in saying that milk of the
same quality as that which there came under the careful management of Mrs.
Willis, in the hands of the most expert Cheddar maker would not produce
a cheese of an equally delicious flavor.
The care, skill, and enormous amount of work and time which the making
of the best Cheshire entails, especially when contrasted with the Cheddar
system, no doubt are the main causes why so little really first-rate Cheddar
cheese is now manufactured. I would strongly recommend those who prefer
in the main to follow the Cheshire plan, but find that their cheese is apt to
heave and be inferior in quality, to set the milk at a somewhat higher tem-
perature than is their custom; 80° is a very good temperature at the time
of applying the rennet. When the curd has been carefully broken up and
allowed to settle for about half an hour, the temperature of the cheese-tub
may then be raised with advantage to 90° F.
Returning to the Wall's Court cheese trials, it appears, according to pre-
ceding data, that one thousand gallons of milk, used according to the four
difierent modes adopted, gave market produce as follows :
No. 1. 1,000 gallons of new milk gave 8 cwt. of whole-milk cheese.
ISO 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, partially skimmed, produced 6^ cwts. 16 lbs. of cheese,
and 13^ cwt. of l>utter. 1 j . i /2
No 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, skimmed, produced 6 cwts. 34 lbs. of skim-milk cheese,
and 33^ cwts. of butter.
No 4. 1,000 gallons of milk produced 3 cwts. 13 lbs. of skim-milk cheese, and 4M
cwts. of extra rich cheese.
Let us now compare the economic results obtained, taking as the basis of
Practical Dairy Husbandry, . 345
our calculation the price actually obtained by the sale of these eight large
Cheddar cheeses, and assuming that butter is sold at Is. per pound.
£ s. d. £ s. d.
No. 1. Produced 8 cwts. of whole milk cheese, worth 70s. per cwl 28
No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 2 qrs. 16 Ihs, at 60s. per cwt 19 18 4
26 18 4
Butter, 11^ cwt., at Is. per lb 7
No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 24 lbs., at 50s. per cwt 15 10 8
Butter, 3K cwts ^^ ^ ^ 29 ^q 3
No. 4. Made into skim-milk cheese and extra rich cheese, 1,000 gal-
lons of milk prod uced :
Skim-milk cheese, 3 cwts, 12 lbs., at 50s 7 15 4
Kich cheese, 4 cwts. 3 qrs., at 703 16 13 6
24 7 10
Thus in these experiments it will appear that No. 2 gave the best, and
No. 4 decidedly the least profitable result. Where a ready sale for butter
can be found, I am inclined to think it is more profitable to make skim-milk
cheese and butter than to look only to the production of a cheese of a better
quality. The Cheddar plan, however, is not so well adapted for the making
of skim-milk cheese as the Gloucester system, neither is it desirable to make
thick skim-cheeses. A thick skim-milk cheese, when made at the elevated
temperature at which Cheddar is usually produced, never ripens properly, and
like all skim-milk cheese deteriorates when kept more than two months ;
whereas a rich Cheddar is gradually improved by keeping for many months.
CHEESE EXPERIMENTS MADE AT MK. HAERISOn'S DAIRY, FKOCESTER COURT,
STONEHOUSE.
Mr. J. F. Harrison makes excellent uncolored single Gloucester, and
follows the ordinary practice in his neighborhood of making cheese twice a day.
The pasture in this district is good, but full of buttercups {Ranunculus).
The cows kept on this pasture yield milk rich in butter. In making single
Gloucester, a portion of the milk from each milking is generally set aside,
partially skimmed, and then added to new milk. The rennet is applied at a
temperature varying, according to the time of the year, from 75° to 80°.
After an hour the curd is carefully cut across with a large-bladed knife, then
removed by a skimming dish from the sides and bottom of the tub. The
curd is allowed to subside for about a quarter of an hour, after which the
clear whey is dipped out with a wooden bowl, care being taken not to press
or injure the tender curd. When most of the whey has been removed, the
curd is again carefully stirred with a wooden skimming dish, and afterwards
with a wire breaker, at first very cautiously and gradually more briskly.
After the curd has been thoroughly broken, the whole is left to settle for
twenty or twenty-five minutes ; the clear whey is next drawn ofi", and the curd
collected into one mass. This is cut into thin slices, which are heaped up and
again collected into one mass, and this process of slicing and heapmg is
repeated several times, as it materially facilitates the separation of the whey
and is much preferable to the use of pressure. Many dairymaids, anxious to
be rid of this work, put the curd far too soon into the presses ; in consequence
346 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
of which the pores of the outside layers of the cheese are completely closed
up, and the whey prevented from escaping. No amount of ordinax-y pressure
removes the whey so perfectly as repeated slicing and careful breakino- up.
When sufficiently firm and dry, the curd is placed upon cloth in the vat,
and gently pressed under an ordinary cheese-press. When no more whey
flows out, it is removed from the press, crumbled coarsely by hand, and then
more minutely by the curd-mill. Finally the curd is vatted, and placed at
first under a slight pressure, which is gradually increased. The last thing
done on the day on Avhich the cheeses are made, is often to rub in some salt.
Subsequently the cheeses are salted in the same way three times, and each
time the salt is rubbed in, a clean and dry cloth is placed around the cheeses.
In about a week's time the cheeses are ready to be removed to the cheese-room.
The preceding is a short description of the usual plan of making thin
Gloucester cheese.
Mr. Harrison does not color his cheese, and keeps it for about a fortnight
in a warm room, and then removes it to a cool, airy shed for three weeks
longer before he sends it to market. In both rooms the cheeses are kept on
wooden shelves and frequently turned. In winter the first room is heated
by a stove.
Mr. Harrison, who takes great interest in cheese-making, some years
ago applied the ordinary centrifugal drying-machine to the purpose of
separating whey. A small turbine or water-wheel drives the revolving
vessel in which the curd is placed in a cloth. As the vessel attains its
velocity, the whey is driven outwards through the perforated surface which
encloses it, and escapes. The curd in this case is either not broken at all,
unless by accident, or but imperfectly.
Having operated with the drying machine, I am of opinion that instead
of beating curd and whey together into the revolving vessel, it would be
better and more expeditious to break the curd coarsely, to let it subside for
twenty minutes, to dip out as much of the clear whey as possible without dis-
turbing the curd, and then to place it, tied in a cloth, in the revolving vessel.
Mr. Harrison obligingly placed his dairy at my disposal to try certain
experiments, and for his kindness and personal assistance my sincere thanks
are due to this gentleman.
It has been stated by many, that in cheeseraaking a considerable loss,
both in curd and butter, is often incurred by adopting a faulty method, or
by careless manipulation. With a view of preventing these alleged losses,
Mr. Harrison was the first to adapt the centrifugal drying-machine to dairy
operations. But as his excellent dairymaid prefers to make cheese by hand,
the centrifugal machine is not often set in motion at Frocester Court.
I was anxious to ascertain by comparative trials whether the alleged loss
in cheesemaking was unavoidable, or whether it could be avoided or dimin-
ished by the employment of this centrifugal whey-separating machine. The
trials were made at Frocester Court on the 7th of August, 1860.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 347
No. 1. — In the first experiments, eighty gallons of milk were made
according to the usual plan into four cheeses, which may be called hand-
made cheeses.
No. 2. — In the second trial, eighty gallons of milk were made into four
cheeses as before, with this exception — that the whey was separated by the
centrifugal machine.
The milk used in both trials had the following composition :
Water, 87.40
Butter, 3.43
*Caseine, 3 . 13
Milk sugar, extractive matters, &c., 5.13
Miueral matters (ash), , 93
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 50
The whey obtained in each experiment was neaiiy clear ; that produced
by the machine being the clearer of the two. On analysis the following
results were obtained :
COMPOSITION OF TWO SAMPLES OF WHEY MADE AT PROCESTER COURT, AUG. 7tH, 1860.
MACHINE-MADE. HAND-MADE.
Water, 93.75 93 60
Butter, .39 .55
*Albuminous Compounds, 87 .96
Ash 86 .81
Sugar and extractive matters, 5.13 5.08
100.00 100.00
* Containing nitrogen .14 .15
Free lactic acid, .41 .36
We see then that both in respect of the butter and the albuminous com-
pounds left in the whey, the machine has an advantage, though but a slight
one ; but there is no essential difference between ordinary whey and that pro-
duced by the centrifugal machine. Other samples of whey from cheese made
by hand have given me quite as little butter as that found in the whey pro-
duced by the machine ; and every sample of whey which I have yet examined
contained from 8-lOths to 1 per cent, of a curd-like albuminous matter which
is not coagulated by rennet, and that can only be separated by boiling.
The four cheeses of each trial were carefully marked and weighed at inter-
vals. They were made, it will be remembered, on the 7th of August.
No. I. — The cheeses made by hand weighed :
August 18th, 811^ lbs.
September 3d, 783^ "
September 33d, 75 "
Loss in four weeks, ej^ lbs., or 8 per cent.
II. — The four cheeses made by the machine weighed :
August 18th, 741^ lbs.
September 3d, 70)1 "
September 33d, 67 "
Loss in four weeks, 1)4. ^^s., or 10 per cent.
348 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The cheese was sold at Id. a pound when only five weeks old, and no per-
ceptible difierence in the quality of the cheese made by hand and that made
by the machine could be noticed. All were equally good and fine-flavored
cheeses.
Eighty gallons of milk when made by hand into cheese thus produced
seventy-five pounds, and when made by the machine only sixty-seven pounds
of salable cheese. Since the whey from the machine-made cheese Avas
rather the poorer, fully as great a weight of cheese might have been expected
when the machine was used as when the ordinary plan of manipulation was
adopted. To account for this difference of eight pounds, it may be supposed
that the machine-made cheese was drier than the other; but the preced-
ing weighings show that whereas the No. I cheeses lost in four weeks only
eight per cent, in weight, the No. II cheeses made by machine lost ten per
cent., indicating thereby that the latter were more moist than the former.
Direct determinations, indeed, showed that the machine-made cheese contained
more water than that made in the ordinary way. In the former I found 37.20
per cent, and in the latter 36.77 per cent, of water ; but this difference is not
sufficient to account for the results.
The case was puzzling ; equal quantities of milk had in each case been
carefully measured out; rather less matter had been left in the whey which
came from the machine ; the cheese differed but little in respect of moisture ;
but for an accidental observation I should have been completely at a loss to
explain the anomaly. I found out by chance that the dairymaid was deter-
mined not to be beaten by the machine, and to prove her skill by making a
larger quantity by hand than by the machine. The two trials were made in
two adjoining rooms, and watching the making of the two sets of cheese from
beginning to end, I found the dairymaid in the act of incorporating some
cheese-parings from the preceding day's make with the hand-made cheese.
Whether these parings were specially reserved for the coming trial or not I
cannot say ; but I certainly saw her take them from a tolerably large supply
which she kept under the cheese-tub.
The examination of the two samples of whey had, however, in my opinion,
afforded sufficient evidence of the fact that no matter how cheese is made, a
considerable proportion of the nitrogenized compounds of the milk is left in the
whey ; and that this loss is unavoidable, and not necessarily greater in the
ordinary plans of operation than by the use of a machine.
All the experimental cheeses were received by me on the 28th of Sep-
tember, 1860.
One of them which was made by the machine got injured in the trans-
mission from the dairy to Cirencester. It weighed sixteen and a-half pounds.
A portion of the cheese was analyzed on the 28 th of September, and yielded
the following results :
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
349
Water 37.30
Batter, 37.30
*Caseine, 34 . 50
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ' -44
f Mineral matters (asli), 3.56
100.00
* Containing nitrogen, 3.92
\ Containing common salt, 85
The cheeses were kept for a considerable length of time, principally for
the purpose of ascertaining the loss in weight which they sustained in keeping.
On the 28th of September the eight»cheeses weighed:
No.
1
2
3
4
MACHINE-MADE.
lbs
.... 161^
.... 1734
.... 16K
.... 161^
No.
1 .
3 .
3 .
4.
HAND-MADE.
lbs.
... 18^
... 17
... 18%
... 30
Total 66K
On the 9th of November they weighed :
Total 741^
No.
1
3
3
4 Consumed
MACHINE-MADE.
lbs.
.... 15%
.... 16%
.... 15%
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
No.
1.
3.
3.
4.
HAND-MADE.
lbs.
.... 18M
.... 16M
.... 18M
.... 19%
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
1^
Weights on the 19tli of January, 1861
No.
1.
MACmNE-MADE.
lbs.
14
15
14M
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
3M
3
4 Consumed
Weights on the 12th of February, 1861
HAND-MADE.
No. lbs.
1 16% ^^
3 Consumed on the 9tli JNov.
3 161^
4 1834
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
2
334
3
No.
1.,
2.,
3.
MACHINE-MADE.
lbs.
13%
14%
14
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
3%
2^
No.
1 Consumed.
2 Consumed.
3
4
HAND-MADE.
lbs.
LOSS SINCE
28th SEPT.
lbs.
16
17%
3%
3K
4 Consumed.
Accordingly forty-two and a-half pounds of machine-made cheese lost from
the time they were ready for sale until the 12th of February— that is, a period
of not quite five months — seven and three-quarters pounds, or eighteen per
cent. ; while thirty-three and three-quarter pounds of the hand-made cheese
lost in the same period five and a-quarter pounds, or fifteen and a-half per
cent. ; thus showing plainly that the hand-made cheeses were rather drier than
those made by the machine. These weighings likewise show the economy of
selling cheese as soon as possible after it is ready for the market.
One of the cheeses made by hand was analyzed on the 21st of January,
1861, and found to contain in one hundred parts :
350 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Water, 01 oe
Butter, .•:;:.■.•:;.•.■.■:.•.■.■.•::;::;: sJ.I?
*Caseine, gg „„
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ." ] 001^
fMineral matters (ash), .!!!.*.!!'...!!'.*.!,".*."" 4 45
*r. . . . . lao.oo
* Uontaming nitrogen, ^ «^
f Contaiuing common salt, ,.,, ........',. ,,]\\ " 135
During the time of keeping it became, of course, drier and correspondingly
richer in butter.
Two skim-cheeses made on the 8tR of August, 1860, weighed on the 18th
of August, thirty-one and a-half pounds ; on the 3d September, thirty pounds ;
and on the 22d of September, twenty-eight pounds, and were then considered
ready for sale. Kept still longer they lost considerably in weight, as will be
seen by the following weighings :
WEIGHT OF TWO SKIM CHEESES.
SEPTEMBER 28th. NOVEMBER 9th. JANUARX 19th. 1861. FEBEUART 12th, 1861.
No. lbs. lbs.
lbs. lbs.
1 13 12K n% 11
2 15 14K 13g 12%
Total 28 27 24^ 23^
Total loss in weight in not quite five months, 4}^ lbs., or 15 per cent.
A portion of one of the skim-cheeses was analyzed on the 19th of Feb-
ruary, 1861, with the following results :
^^1^'' 27.68
*^^^"F 30.80
*Caseme gg ^o
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1 46
fMineral matters (ash).. 4 '94
100.00
* Containing nitrogen g g2
f Containing common salt .".'.".".'.".'.".*.*.'."' 1 27
This^ cheese was hardly inferior to a good whole-milk cheese, and might
readily have been sold as such.
It is a well-ascertained fact that towards the fall of the year cows produce
much less but richer milk than in spring and summer. This is strikingly
illustrated by the various quantities of cheese which are obtained at different
times of the year, from a given quantity of milk, as will be seen by the follow-
ing results with which Mr. Haeeison kindly supplied me :
<,^-, '^^S'^'^ beginninar of August, 160 gallons of milk produced 8 cheeses, weighing on the
22d of September 142 lbs.
On the 19tb of October, 110 gallons of milk produced 7 cheeses, weighing on the 31st
of December, 108i^ lbs.
On the 29th of November, 60 gallons of milk produced 5 cheeses, weicliinff 70 lbs. on
the 13th of February.
On the 29th of November the cows were still out to grass, and had no extra
food but hay.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 351
In conclusion I may mention an experiment which Mr. Harding of Marks-
bury made at my request, with a view of converting into cheese, if possible,
the curd-like substance which is not coagulated by rennet, together with any
suspended particles of butter usually occurring in whey.
To this end seventy gallons of whey were heated to the boiling point, and
kept for some time at that temperature. The curd-like substance which sepa-
rated was collected on a cloth, and after the addition of a little salt, placed in
the cheese-press. After remaining in it for three days eighteen ounces of
whey-cheese were obtained. This cheese had a peculiar granular texture, and
even after long keeping did not ripen proj)erly like other cheese. The high
temperature at which it was produced evidently prevents the necessary fer-
mentation which curd must undergo before it becomes mellow, and salable
as human food.
The small quantity of eighteen ounces from seventy gallons, moreover,
appears hardly sufficient to repay for the trouble. On the whole it would
appear to be quite as profitable to set the whey for butter, and to give the
skimmed whey to the pigs.
As a matter of curiosity I append an analysis of the whey-cheese, which
although very rich in fatty matters, had a bad texture and quite an inferior
flavor.
COMPOSITION OF WHET-CHEESB.
Moisture 30.23
Butter 44.37
*Caseine 21.50
Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.52
fMineral matters (ash) 2.48
100.00
* Containing nitrogen 3.44
f Containing common salt 1.83
I
PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKWa
Before entering upon the subject of cheese manufacture in detail, I have
some few remarks to make on topics omitted in previous pages.
CLEANSING DAIRY UTENSILS.
Before commencing the operation of milking, it is important that the
pails and cans be clean and sweet. This is an old story, which every dairy-
man has probably heard over and over again, and understands perfectly in
the abstract. The cleansing of pails and cans usually belongs to the female
portion of the household, and some would take it as an offense to be told
that their dairy utensils are not kept clean and in order ; but it is a fact that
many dairywomen, though patterns in neatness generally, do not understand
when a milk pail is in proper order to be used. It is a common practice to
take wooden pails after milking, clean the outside and rinse them in cold
water. The water is turned into the first pail, and a cloth may perhaps be
used to brush around the water. Then the contents of the pail are emptied .
into the second pail, and thus the whole lot is treated. Then the pails are a
second time rinsed and turned down to drain and dry, and are pronounced
clean and sweet. This is the evening management. In the morning the
same operation is performed with hot water, that is, water not so hot but
that the hand may be borne in it, without seriously discommoding the
operator. To the common observer pails treated in this way may appear
perfectly sweet and clean ; but to those who understand the nature of milk
ferments, these utensils are positively filthy. A close observation about the
corners at the bottom, about the ears of the pail, and often upon the sides,
will reveal a gum-like substance, which consists of minute particles of milk,
adhering to the surface and drying down, having the appearance of discolored
white paint. After awhile this gummy substance becomes so thick that it
arrests the attention of the dairymaid, and she forthwith scours it off with
salt or otherwise, and the pails present a whiter aspect. But of the damage
that has been done from day to day to the milk from these germs of ferment,
especially if the weather has been warm, she has no idea, and often will not
be convinced.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
353
A great deal of trouble with milk at factories and private dairies arises
from improperly cleaned pails ; for it is surprising how small a quantity of
this old decomposed milk will set a large quantity of good milk in a ferment.
4
FlGTTBI! 1.
My OAvn experiments upon this point have been numerous, and with those
who have carefully studied the nature of milk the question has never for a
moment been disputed. It was on account of the carelessness and negligence
in cleansing wooden milk pails, that I long since denovmced them as a
mcisance, and I am glad to say that Dairy Associations in New York, in
Ohio, in Canada and the Northwest have sustained this opinion, and resolu-
tions recommending their banishment from the dairy, and the use of tin in
their place. We introduce cuts of approved tin milk pails — the Millae
pail, that of the Iron Clad Co., and the
Ralph pail.
Millak's tin milk pails (Fig. 1) are
made from four cross tin, imported on
purpose for them, have but one seam in
the body of the pail and are soldered very
smoothly. A tinned malleable iron rim or
band is soldered firmly to the bottom in-
closing it, and is so constructed as to thor-
oughly protect and support it and to raise
it sufficiently to prevent it from resting on
the floor and from picking up the dirt ; it
is also convenient for tipping the pail.
The Avire in the upper edge of the pail is inclosed by the tin and then
soldered so that it cannot rust. The bail is made from the best tinned wire.
23
riGURE 2.
354
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
^
The Iron Clad Co. pail is also of heavy tin, substantially made, the
bottom being convex to give it strength. It is shown in Fig. 2.
The Ralph pail is of tin, and has a concave bottom. It is made in two
styles, the one with a rim on the bottom, and the other as a tin lining to a
wooden pail. Figs. 3 and 4 represent the last named style.
FiGUBE 3.
Figure 4.
In cleansing dairy utensils, it should be understood that neither cold or
warm water is sufficient to destroy the germs of ferment contained in these
particles of decomposed milk. To be efficient, the water must be at the
boiling point, or 212°. Dr. Voelcker well remarks, in speaking of this
point, that " it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly boiling ;
and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking, though they
have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty when the kettle
is really boiling." " This remai'k," he adds, " applies to some educated as
well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing voice of the tea
kettle, accompanied by a certain amount of vapor, for a sign that water is in
a state of ebullition." Now go through the country, and how many dairies
will be found where attention is given to this matter of boiling water in
cleansing cans and pails ? Probably not one in one hundred. It is tpue
when tin is used the difficulty of cleaning is not so great as with wood, since
the metal will not absorb liquids ; and yet we hear of much complaint from
imperfectly cleansed milk pails and cans. At a meeting of the American
Dairy Association, Mr. Moon of Herkimer, in discussing the question of
floating curds^ gave an instance where this trouble was had in one vat of
milk at the factory every day for a week. The cause was finally traced to a
certain dairy, and an examination of the milk utensils revealed the fact, that
under the small piece of tin soldered around the vent hole in the can cover,
some milk had leaked through the imperfect solder. Here had lodged small
particles of milk which, decomposing or becoming putrid, was the cause of
the trouble. The covers were repaired and properly cleaned, and afterwards
there were no floating curds. The plan of
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365
cleansing and steaming the cans
with a jet of hot steam, as practiced by the Elgin Condensing Works, is
worthy of imitation, and should be adopted by every factory. And I believe
that unless farmers take this matter more at heart, and resolve to be more
careful with dairy utensils and in the delivery of milk at the factories, the
same losses and troubles that have been going on for years past will continue.
The question is of vital importance, and cannot be too frequently urged upon
the dairy public.
MILKING.
Farmers generally have the impression that when milch cows have win-
tered well and are fairly out to grass there need be but little care or attention
given to the animals, and that then in their herds they have a fountain that
is to supply good, pure milk simj)ly by drawing it, not much matter how or
when. It is true people understand that when cows are milked with great
irregularity, or are subjected to any extraordinary brutal treatment — such as
sundry kicks in the udder with a heavy boot, they will yield unprofitable
results, since the consequence of such management forces itself almost imme-
diately upon the attention. But it is not those things that come so plainly
under the eye of the observer, concerning which I propose to speak. If an
angry man kicks his cow in the udder, some of the blood-vessels of the part
will probably be ruptured, and the bloody milk which flows from the teats
will speak more forcibly than any words of mine ; but if he kicks her in the
ribs, or mauls her with a milking-stool upon the hips and back, the conse-
quences may not be so immediately apparent, yet that damage is done and
that loss will follow, is equally certain. I am speaking of no exceptional
cases, but of those that are of common occurrence wherever any considerable
herd is kept, and when the eye of the master is not sharp to detect and
punish these offenses. The pressing want in the dairy districts to-day is for
good, kind, humane laborers, who can be trusted to do the milking in a proper
manner. Many of these people do not understand that any pai'ticular loss is
to follow from a moderately brutal and cruel treatment of cattle.
I have always advised dairymen to make a special contract with laborers
who are to be employed about the dairy. Let it be understood that the
moment a cow is maltreated, that moment a settlement is to be made and the
party offending to be discharged with a reasonable deduction from his wages.
This fairly understood at the time of hiring, together with proper oversight
of the animals, and those about the dairy will go far to mitigate a great and
growing evil. It is a lamentable fact that there are a large number of ailing
milch cows in the dairy districts — cows that are not in vigorous health, that
fall off in milk, that have sick turns, now and then, which, if the history of
their treatment was known, could all be traced to the causes I have enumer-
ated. A rap upon the spine with the stool has ruined many a valuable beast ;
a stroke upon the udder has often produced unaccountable cases of garget.
356 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
I wish it could be generally and thoroughly understood, that nothing pays
better in the dairy than kindness and gentleness to stock. Milch cows should
be kept as quiet and comfortable as possible, and no person should be
employed in milking that the animals fear. Any undue nervous excitement
not only lessens the quantity but depreciates the quality of the milk. Some-
times cows take a dislike to their milker, and in such cases a change should
be made, otherwise there is a liability of the cow falling off in her milk. I have
seen several cases of this kind, and although such freaks are quite unaccount-
able, it will always be found better to change the milker if possible, rather
than to attempt to conquer this j^eculiarity. I do not approve the practice,
common with some dairymen, of the milkers milking the cows indiscrimi-
nately. The hands should each select a certain number of cows and continue
to milk them from day to day throughout the season.
The hours of milking should be regular, and each cow should be milked
in regular order. The milk should be drawn rapidly and to the last drop,
and all loud talking, singing, and wrangling avoided. These are little things
in themselves, and may seem to many to be " over nice ;" but repeated and
Avell-conducted experiments have convinced me that they are important points
to be attended to, and must be observed to obtain the best results. I always
insist that the milkers
STUDY THE DISPOSITION OF THE COWS
under their charge, that they become familiar or perfectly acquainted with
each animal, patting them, or in other ways making them understand that you
are friendly and fond of them. When once their confidence has been obtained
in this way they will exhibit affection in return, and will yield in the increased
quantity of milk more than enough to pay for the time and trouble given to
the purpose indicated. Some cows are extremely nervous and excitable ; such
require caution and attention in management, otherwise they soon become
worthless for the dairy.
IN DRIVING CATTLE PROM THE PASTURE
to the stable they should never be hurried or made to go faster than a walk.
Good cows have well-filled udders, which make it painful to move over the
ground faster than a walk. Besides, in warm weather, by hurrying the animal
there is always danger of over-heating her blood and milk, and thus not only
injuring it, but all the other milk with which it comes in contact. Dogs
should never be allowed in a dairy. They are the source of infinite mischief.
In all my observations I have never yet met with a strictly first-class dairy
of cheese, where the cows were dogged from the pasture to the stable.
What I desire to impress upon the mind is, that these truths should be
understood not only in the abstract, but that they be carried into practice.
Neither good butter nor good cheese can be made from diseased milk ; nor
can good milk be had from diseased cows.
i
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 357
WETTING THE TEATS WITH MILK.
Some people are in the habit, when first sitting down to milk, of drawing
a little milk to wet their hands and the teats of the cow. It is not a cleanly-
practice and should always be avoided. I have seen milkers with their hands
gummed up with filth, and the reeking compound of milk, dirt and manure,
oozing out from between the fingers and dropping into the pail, as the result
of this bad habit referred to. In some dairies a great deal of milk is tainted
in this way, and not unfrequently this taint shows itself in a very marked
degree in the butter and cheese manufactured. Many thoughtless persons
have the impression that milk in some way purifies itself and that taints
imparted in the way I have named cannot be carried into the butter and
cheese. Such ideas are very erroneous, and the sooner correct notions are
had in regard to the purity and cleanliness of milk for dairy purposes, the
sooner shall we arrive at a higher standard of excellence in dairy products,
and as a consequence better prices be obtained.
MILK WITH DRY HANDS.
Cows do not milk any easier with wet hands than with dry hands. If the
udder or teats are muddy or covered with filth, they should be washed with clean
water and wiped dry. Then milk with dry hands and it will soon be found easier
and pleasanter, even with those who have been accustomed to wetting the
hands and teats while milking. In summer, when cows are running upon clean
upland pastures, the udder and teats will generally be clean, except perhaps
in wet weather. If there is no occasion to wash the udder and teats, it is
always well to brush over the parts with the hands or with a cloth to remove
any particles of dust or loose hairs adhering and then set the pail in position
and commence to milk with dry hands. Uncleanliness in milking is one of
the great faults in the dairies of this country, and it is one of the causes of
bad "flavor in dairy products. Every dairyman should fully explain this mat-
ter to hired help and insist upon cleanly habits in milking. That the fault
referred to is a serious one and more general than some would at first imagine,
can very easily be demonstrated by visiting any of the factories at the time
the milk is being delivered. Let the milk strainers then be closely scrutinized,
and they will often be found to present a most disgustingly filthy appearance.
If this mass of filth could be shown to some uncleanly milkers, I hardly think
they would be willing to taste milk filtered through such material.
EXPERIMENTS IN COAGULATING MILK.
Various attempts have been made from time to time to find a substitute
for rennet in cheese-making. Acids have been used for this purpose, and are
to some extent employed in Holland at the present time. It is claimed by
some that when acids are used for coagulating the milk a larger percentage
of curd is obtained, and that the cheese has longer keeping qualities than
when rennet is used ; but I believe it to be generally conceded that no sub-
stance has as yet been found equal to rennet for making a fine, delicate-
358 Pb ACTIO AL DaIRY HUSBANDRY.
flavored cheese, such as the markets in England now demand. In regard to
the use of acids for coagulating milk we have some interesting experiments! |
made by an English manufacturer, and detailed by him as follows : *
He procured four pints of milk of the same cow, having a-specific gravity
of 10.32; to one, rennet was added in the ordinary manner, to the second, tar-
taric acid, to the third, acetic acid, and to the fourth, hydro-chloric, or-
muriatic acid. After the lapse of about half-an-hour the curd had formed inl
the milk to which the rennet had been added. The curd and the whey
exhibited to test paper the slightest possible acid reaction, and both were
perfectly sweet to the taste ; further, it was observed that the curd was very
soft and readily broken up, while the serum or whey was somewhat white and
opaque, from the retention of a certain amount of the butter of the milk.
For the coagulation of the second pint of milk thirty-seven grains of tartaric
acid were required ; the coagulation was effected immediately on the addition
of the acid ; the whey and curd both exhibited to test paper a strong acid
reaction and were also perceptibly acid to the taste. The curd in this case
was firmer, and the whey clear and transparent, almost like water, showing
that the whole of the butter had been precipitated with the curd.
No less than one hundred and forty drops by measure of the acetic acid,
of weight or specific gravity, 10.46, were necessary to precipitate the whole
of the curd contained in the third pint of milk. The curd and whey pre-
sented nearly the same character as in the previous case. Of muriatic acid,
of specific gravity, 11.65, seventy-five drops were added before the whole of _
the curd in the fourth pint of milk was thrown down ; the curd and whey I
were more decidedly acid than in the former cases. In other respects their
characters were nearly the same. The whey was carefully separated from
the curd in each case, when it was ascertained that those curds which had beenfl
formed by the addition of acids were heavier and more bulky than those
from the rennet. The curds were then well washed with brine ; this occa-
sioned some loss, especially of the rennet curd. The application of the brine
was made in order the more completely to separate the whey, rennet and
acids employed in the precipitation of the curds. Lastly, the curds were
salted and pressed into small cheeses, those made with the acids being the
largest.
AMOUNT OF ACIDS REQUIRED.
For the coagulation, then, of one gallon of milk, no less than five drachms
of tartaric acid, or rather more than two and one-fourth ounces of acetic acid,
or one and one-fourth ounces of muriatic acid would be required. The prices
of these would be about one-halfpenny, one penny, and one-half penny, ster-
ling, or very nearly, in American coin, one cent, two cents, and one cent.
The cost of these articles, therefore, it is evident, is an important element to
be considered. The cheese made with the acids were firmer, sharper to the
taste, and were of longer-keeping qualities than the one in the preparation
of which rennet was used ; but the last was richer and more delicate in flavor.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 359
the advantages of acids over eennet
would seem, from these experiments, to be that the yield of curd is some-
what greater ; that their operation is certain, and that the coagulation is
effected without loss of time. On the other hand, they are expensive, and
the flavor of the cheese is not equal to the standard now set up as fine in the
English markets ; that is, a cheese preserving unimpaired the combined flavor
of the caseine and butter of the milk. These expex-iments may be interesting
to cheese manufacturers, and may serve as a basis or guide for future experi-
ments, by those who are looking for a substance different from rennet for
coagulating milk in cheese-making. The acid usually employed by the Dutch
is muriatic acid. Some of the Dutch cheese is excellent, and is highly
relished by those who have acquired a taste for this character of cheese.
EENNETS.
There is a great deal of loose writing and bad advice about rennets.
There is a great difference in the strength of rennets, and so there is a great
difference in the action of living stomachs for digesting food. Some stom-
achs are naturally weak, or have less vital energy than others. This is of
frequent occurrence in the human family, and is not confined to it alone, but
extends to the brute creation. Calves that are delicate eaters, that have
weak stomachs and impaired digestion, yield weak rennets. It is the strong,
healthy, vigorous calf, and one that has a perfect digestive apparatus, that
will give a rennet of great strength. I have made some carefully conducted
experiments on this point, which have convinced me that one source, at
least, of weak rennets, is due to the cause I have named. There are other
causes, as when the stomachs have been improperly saved and prepared.
Many salt down the stomachs in a cask or tub. It is a very bad practice,
and has been the cause of a great deal of mischief in the dairy. The trouble
with salting down rennets and packing a considerable number together is
this : If one diseased or bad rennet gets into the cask, it communicates its
taint to the whole mass, and the leaven once having been added, develops
with wonderful rapidity, so soon as circumstances become favorable, — and
these circumstances do become favorable, when it is added to the milk at a
temperature as high as 80®.
WHAT CALVES TO TAKE EENNETS FEOM.
Rennets should only be saved from healthy calves ; from those that have
been allowed all the milk they will take for at least four days, and up to
within some twelve or fourteen hours of slaughter. A calf that has been
starved will be likely to have a diseased and inflamed stomach, and if it is
used for cheese-making it will most assuredly impair the flavor of the cheese,
A good, healthy stomach having been selected, the contents should be
emptied out and all specks wiped off. Then it should either be blown up
like a bladdei-, or slightly salted and stretched on a forked stick, and hung
up in a dry atmosphere, only moderately warm.
360
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
IiEJSrJ!fETS BADLY PKEPARED.
Some cheese-makers prepare rennets badly, by soaking in wooden casks
or barrels. There are many tons of cheese spoiled in flavor every year
simply on this account. It is almost an impossibility to keep a wooden
vessel sweet that is used for steeping rennet. I have used the most scrupulous
care, over and over again, with Avooden vessels, and have never succeeded in
keeping them sweet for any considerable length of time. Rennet tubs and
rennets are often tainted when the cheese-maker is not aware of the fact. I
have frequently been called to examine cheese that was out of flavor, or
acting badly, with a view of discovering the difficulty, and have often found
the whole trouble to come from a tainted rennet cask. So important do I
consider this single point, that it may be laid down as a rule that no first-
class, high-flavored cheese can be made, for any considerable length of time,
where wooden casks are used for steeping rennets.
THE STEEPING VESSELS
should be of stone ware. They are manufactured now for the purpose, of
various sizes — of five, ten, twenty or more gallons. We give illustration of
the jar (Fig. 5). Farmers who have been so
unfortunate as to have had pork tainted in
the barrel, know how difficult it is to cleanse
the cask ; and many who have attempted
it have lost their pork, by packing in a
barrel that has once been tainted. Rennets
are more liable to taint, while steeping, than
salt meats, and common sense should teach us
that wooden vessels ought never to be employed
for the purpose.
STEEPING IN WHET.
Rennets are more efficient when steeped in
FiGUKE 5. whey ; but the whey should be free from taint
in the first instance, and then freed from its albuminous matter. Rennet
does not act on the albumen of milk, and this nitrogenous constituent passes
off in the whey. Albumen coagulates at a high temperature. By heating
the whey to boiling, the albuminous matter coagulates, and may be skimmed
off. This should be done soon after drawing the whey from the vats, and
before it has begun to ferment and putrefy. When whey is used for steeping
rennet, before it is freed from albumen, it is often decomposed and putrid,
and a very dangerous ferment is therefore added to the milk, which carries a
taint to the cheese. Some people save the whey that runs from the press in
which to steep rennets. This is a very bad practice. On putting cheese to
press, a whitish, milky substance often flows out at the first pressure. This
whey is probably highly charged with albumen. The whey having been
freed from its albumen, if set aside, makes a very sharp acid, and is alto-
Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. ■ 361
gether the best liquid for steeping rennet that has yet been discovered. It
is this purified whey that should be used for developing an acid condition of
the curds, when necessary.
After the rennets have been soaked, and rubbed to extract their strength
(and this will occupy several days, the rubbing being performed at least three
or four times), the liquor should then be strained off into a clean stone cask
or rennet jar, and is fit for use. The rennets are then to be put to soak again
with whey as at first, and are rubbed from time to time until their strength
is exhausted. They may then be taken out, washed in whey, and the liquor
added to that in the jar and the rennets thrown away. It is not a good prac-
tice to add new rennets to those that have been steeping, and thus keep a
batch of rennets in soak during the whole season, as there is more liability
of their becoming tainted ; and when their strength has once been exhausted
they are useless in the rennet jar, and it is better to have them out of it.
When sour whey is used for steeping but little salt is needed. The rennets
should not be allowed to float on the whey. By using a stone crock cover,
they may be kept at the bottom of the whey.
EXAMINE RENNETS DAILY.
I hardly need to add that rennets should be examined daily, while steep-
ing, and the liquor stirred to keep it sweet and free from taint. Nor should
the liquor be used from the crock where the rennets are steeping, before
being strained through a thin cloth, as small pieces rubbed from the skins
get into the milk, and are worked up into the curds.
PREPARING RENNET ENGLISH METHOD.
I have given what I consider the best method to be adopted by dairy-
men and at factories for the preparation of rennet for cheese-making. I now
give the method recommended in the best dairies of England, and it may be
found suggestive in many particulars. It is always an advantage to the
cheese that the rennet should be prepared some time before it is wanted for
use ; and English dairymen recommend that it should be made in February
or March, and that as large a quantity be provided as can be conveniently
done, consistently with the size of the dairy. They find large olive jars
useful for steeping the rennet, some of which will hold thirty gallons. A
hole is made at the bottom to draw the rennet, and they think it much better
to draw it in this way from the bottom, than to disturb it at the top by dip-
ping out. A wooden tap should be used, as the acidity of the liquid has an
injurious effect on a metal one. They have a piece of board with holes per-
forated in it to put into the jar under the veils or rennets, to prevent their .
getting to the bottom and obstructing the liquid running out by getting
against the taps. The rennet is prepared by first making a. brine strong
enough to bear an Qg^. It is then boiled for half an hour, and when quite
cold put into the jar. For every two gallons of brine six veils are added,
one lemon, sliced, and one ounce of saltpeter. They claim that rennet should
362 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
always be prepared at least two months before using, and there will then be
less cause for the cheese to be affected with undue fermentation, which is
injurious to fine flavor.
ASSOCIATED DAIRYING.
The idea of associated dairying, as has been remarked, is claimed to have
originated in Europe. The system, it is true, has been practiced to some
extent in Switzerland and in France, but it differs materially from that of
this country. The European system grew out of a necessity. It was the
offspring of poverty rather than of wealth. The peasants of a neighborhood,
each having one or two cows, united them in one lai'ge herd. They employed
a herdsman in common, and sent him with the herd to the mountainous por-
tions of the Alps. Here the herdsman and his assistants take charge of the
cattle for a certain number of months, turning the milk into cheese, which,
at the end of the season, is divided among the owners of the cows, in propor-
tion to the number furnished by each. Cheese cannot be manufactured to
advantage from one or two cows ; but under this system the poorest peasant
makes the product- of his one cow compete successfully in the market with
that made from the large herds of the wealthy, since it is similar in shape
and quality. In other words, he has a merchantable article, which he could
not obtain singly and alone.
Now, the European system accomplished no grand results. It did not
spread, or become generally adopted among the nations. It developed no
new principle, either in the art of manufacturing the milk or in the economy
of laboi'-saving appliances. It attracted no particular attention, because it
developed nothing new. Associated dairying in America may be said to be
the first successful movement in this direction. What distinguishes the
American system is the constant effort to reduce the whole art and practice
of dairying to a science. The buildings, the appliances, the manipulations
in the various departments, are matters of study, and of progress and econ-
omy. The grand result sought is to make associated capital pay better than
non-associated capital. It is a new application of an old principle. It is
adapting the rule to farming that has been found successful in commerce and
manufactures.
THE POPULAE METHOD OF ORGANIZING FACTORIES,
and one which seems to give good satisfaction, is to make them joint-stock
concerns. The ground is selected, and an estimate made of buildings,
machinery and fixtures. The whole cost is then divided up into shares of
fifty to one hundred dollars each, and the neighboring farmers, or those favor-
able to the movement, take stock in proportion to the number of cows from
which they are to deliver milk. Officers are chosen, and the company man-
aged as a joint-stock company. "We give the following forms, as a guide to
companies about erecting factories, or for old factories which have been
operating without any written form or regulations :
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 363
FORM FOR CERTIFICATE OF STOCK.
Cream Cheese Dairy Manufacturing Company.
Organized 1865.
No. 1872. [cut] One Share.
It is hereby Certified^ That United States Grant is the propiHe-
tor of one share in the Capital Stock of the Cream Cheese Dairy Manufactur-
ing Company, each share being One Hundred Dollars, transferable ordy on the
books of tlie Company by the Stockholder, or by an Attorney duly constituted, on the
return of this Certificate.
In Testimony Whereof, the President and Secretary have hereunto set their
hands, at Lenox, this 2d day of February, 1871.
General Thomas, President.
John Ditto, Secretary.
The following form is printed on back of the certificate :
For Value Received, hereby sell and transfer to.:
. . . .Share of tlie within mentioned stock, and do hereby countenance and appoint.
Attorney to transfer the same on the books of tJie Company.
Witness, luind and seal , this day of 187. .
rules for organizing factories.
"We, the undersigned, hereby agree and unite ourselves into a body or association for the purpose of
erecting and building a Cheese Factory, and for the purpose also of running said factory to make cheese
from the milk which shall or may be brought in from time to time to said factory by members of the asso-
ciation and other persons, to be made or manufactured into cheese at a certain price for the work and
materials expended from time to time, to be fixed by the association.
Said building or manufactory is to be one hundred feet by thirty-four in size, and three stories high,
to be built of good and substantial materials, and suitable and convenient in its arrangements for the pur-
pose intended, and is to be located on the land of
It shall be known by the name and style of , and it is agreed by and
between the parties to these presents, that they shall and will at all times during the continuance of such
association bear, pay and discharge equally between them, all cost of building said factory, and all rents
and other expenses, and for liired help that may be required for the support and management of the said
business ; and that all gains, profits and increase that shall come, grow or arise from or by means of the
said business, shall be divided between them, said association, share and share alike ; and all loss that shall
happen to them in said joint business, by all commodities, or by bad debts or otlierwise, shall be borne
and paid equally between them ; and there shall be kept just and true books of account and entry of the
resolutions and doings of said association, showing the true state of the operations of said association by
reason or on account of said business, and all matters and things whatsoever to the said business and
management thereof in any wise belonging ; which said books shall be used in common between the
members of said association, so that either of them may have access thereto without any interruption or
hindrance of the other.
And it is hereby further agreed that all questions arising as to the way and manner of conducting said
business and as to the person or persons to be employed as help by the association, and all and every matter
of interest, of whatever thing or nature, to the association, shall always, in case of dispute, be decided by
a majority vote, which shall be entered of record and the time for the continuance of said association or
of any member thereof, and entry of any new member shall, in case of dispute, be decided in
the same way, and recorded.
In witness whereof, the parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals, this
day of 18
ANOTHER FORM FOR ORGANIZING.
Article I. This Association shall be known as the Dairy Manufacturing Company.
Art. n. The business of this association shall be under the direction and control of a Board of
three Directors, There shall also be a Secretary and Treasurer ; all of which shall hold their respective
offices one year, and until others are elected.
Art. HI. The annual meeting of this company shall be held on the first Saturday in January of each
year, at the cheese house belonging to this company, at two o'clock, P. M., at which time the officers
authorized by the second article shall be elected, and any and all business connected with this company shall
be lawfully transacted — each share of stock being entitled to one vote.
364 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Akt. rV. At said annual meeting said directors shall make a report in ■writing of the financial
condition of the company, showing all moneys received and expended by said directors.
Art. V. The Secretary shall keep a record of all meetings of the company, for the examination of
stockholders ; also a list of stockholders and of all transfer of stock reported him.
Abt. VI. It shall be the duty of the President of the Board of Directors, in connection with the
Secretary, to issue certificates of the capital stock of the company to each shareholder — each share to be
one hundred dollars ; also to issue new certificates in case of transfer, to the party purchasing the same, all
of which shall be duly numbered, dated and recorded.
Art. VII. All sale or transfer of the capital stock of this company shall be in writing, and be reported
to the Secretary within thirty days after such sale or transfer, or be of no binding form on the company.
Art. VIII. All moneys paid by the Treasurer shall be by the consent of the Directors, and on the
written order of the President of such Board of Directors.
Art. IX. Any stockholder refusing or failing to promptly pay any and all assessments made on his
stock (not exceeding one hundred dollars on each share) within the time ordered, shall forfeit to the company
any and all payments formerly made, but nothing in the article shall release such delinquent stockholder
from a suit at law for the recovery of any assessments due and unpaid by him.
Art. X. The Directors shall not incumber or impair otherwise the property of this company.
Art. XI. A special meeting may be held in pursuance of a call of the Directors in writing to be filed
with the Secretary, giving at least (7) seven days' notice of the time and place of such meeting ; and it shall
be the duty of the Secretary, in case of such notice of a special meeting being delivered to him, to post
in (3) three public places, and also an the cheese house front door, a written notice of the time and place of
such meeting. It shall also be the duty of the Secretary to give notice of the annual meeting of the com-
pany, by posting (3) three notices as provided for a special meeting.
Art. XII. The capital stock of this company shall be Three Thousand Dollars, in shares of One
Hundred Dollars each.
Art. XIII. The foregoing By-Laws, or any one of them, may be repealed or amended at any annual
meeting, by a majority vote of the stock represented, there being not less than sixteen shares represented
at such meeting.
CKEAM CHEESE DAIRY MANUFACTURING CO. NOTICE TO PATRONS.
The Directors are happy to announce to the public that they have secured the valuable services of
Mr. Wm. Shakspeare, and that they will be prepared to commence the manufacture of Cheese on Monday,
April 12th, upon the following
TERMS :
1, Two Dollars, Twelve and one-half Cents per Hundred Pounds (to be deducted from the
receipts at eacn sale), and one good rennet for each four hundred pounds of cheese ; which shall include
manufacturing, curing, furnishing and ordinary expense, delivering the cheese at the door of the dry house
ready for market.
S. The company will not be responsible for any loss by fire, theft, or other similar cause.
3. It is expressly understood that every person sending milk to this Factory will conform to the
following
REGULATIONS :
1. All milk to be received for manufacture must be carefully strained and brought to the factory in
a tin can without faucet, pure and sweet.
2. Any milk which by reason of negligence, uncleanliness or other cause, is not in suitable condition
for use WILL be rejected if discovered before it is let into the vat.
3. If any person shall bring milk which has been skimmed, watered, or otherwise tampered with in
a manner forbidden by law, then upon obtaining proof sufficient to convict the ofiender, the directors will
prosecute such person and will not compromise or settle only as he pays the full penalty of the law and
ALL DAMAGE ACCRUING FROM HIS OFFENSE,
4. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer, at least once in each week, to carefully test the milk from
each and every dairy, and in case he shall find any that has been skimmed or watered or otherwise in viola-
tion of law, shall at once report the same to the dii-ectors, and to no other person, and they will then take
such measures as they think expedient to obtain conclusive proof against the offender.
5. It is necessary that milk should be delivered at the factory before eight o'clock in the morning of
each day, and the manufacturer will not be required to receive it after that time.
6. Each patron may take from the factory his share of whey in proportion each day to the amount
of milk delivered the day previous ; the-quantity to be regulated by the manufacturer.
7. These regulations shall apply to each director in all respects the same as to any other patron.
DAN'L WEBSTER, )
HENRY CLAY, ^Directors.
Cbeam Hill, N. Y., April 10th, 1871. J. C. CALHOUN, )
SELLING THE CHEESE.
Usually a committee or some one person selected from the patrons, is
chosen as salesman of the cheese, whose duty it is to make sales at best prices
to be had, to arrange dividends and to pay over shares to patrons, deducting
of course the price per pound for manufacturing, which is made to cover all,
including the per cent, on cost of buildings and fixtures.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365
CERTIFICATE OF SALE.
The accompanying form should be filled out to be given to each patron at
the time of paying over his share of proceeds ; a book of printed blanks
being provided for the purpose :
form of blank.
Old Salisbury Cheese Factory, 1871.
Sale No No. of Cheese sold, Price sold for Whole
amount of Cheese sold lbs. Milk Comprising Cheese from
to both days included. Pounds of Milk required for one pound of Cheese
DIVIDEND TO
Pounds of Milk, Pounds of Cheese, Amounts due2 cts. per lb.
for making, &c., deducted, %
, Salesman.
PAYIlSrG the MANUFACTURER BY THE POUND.
Sometimes a good cheese-maker is employed as manufacturer and manager,
at a certain price per pound of the cheese manufactured. This manager
employs his laborers or assistants, and bears all expense of running the factory,
taking care of cheese, keeping record of milk delivered daily by different
patrons, entering the same on the books of the factory, and upon the pass-
books of patrons. Often the Company employ the manufacturer and all hands
at fixed salaries. Some prefer one plan and some another. The milk is
weighed at the factory when delivered, and as experience has shown that
every ten pounds of milk (as an average for the season) should make one
pound of cured cheese, firm, solid and in good marketable condition, each
farmer thus has a daily record in his pass-book of what his herd is yielding.
The manager is employed with the understanding that he is to make a good,
fair article, and his product is examined from time to time by committees, by
experts, and by patrons as they see fit, and thus bad work is soon detected.
If the management is not satisfactory the cheese-maker is discharged, or the
causes of the bad work traced out and rectified.
The stock-holders, and those delivering milk may meet from time to time
and deliberate as to sales ; each one voting according to the number of cows
from which he delivers milk, and in this way instructions are issued to the
salesman.
FACTORY OWNED AND MANAGED BY ONE PERSON.
Then there is another method of establishing factories. One man or a
company erects buildings and bears all expenses of running the factory, charg-
ing by the pound of cured cheese for manufacturing. The cheese in this
instance, it will be seen, belongs to patrons, who appoint a salesman and con-
trol the product precisely as under the other method. We give a form of
rules and regulations applicable to such cases ; also to cases where the pro-
prietor of a factory pui'chases the milk of patrons. Of course these rules
may be varied to meet the views of persons in different localities.
3G6 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
EULES AND REGULATIONS FOK THE GOVERNMENT OF THE SINCLEARYILLE
CHEESE FACTORY.
I. The proprietor of the factory is to make and take care of the cheese, furnish boxes salt
swathing, coloring matter, box and weigh the cheese, mark the boxes, make out bills tally out
cheese lo ciieese drawers, keep the books, receive the cheese and tally the same at the point of
delivery, receive the money tor the cheese and disburse the same among the patrons, for the sum
of two cents (.02) per pound; this includes patrons sending milk Ave months. Psitrons .sending
milk four months and less than five months will be charged two cents and one mill (.031) per pound
Patrons sending milk three months and less than lour months will be charged two cents and two'
mills (.023) per pound. Patrons sending milk less than three months will be chareed two cents
and three mills (.023) per pound for manufacturing, ^u^igeu iwo cents
II. Each patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish one good calf rennet, in good order
to each cow's milk sent to the factory, or pay the sum of fifteen cents in lieu thereof. '
in. Each patron shall have such proportion of the money received for the cheese as his
milk bears to the whole quantity furnished by patrons during the time he sends milk to the factorv
(always subject to part first). '
IV. Each patron shall furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk, and ench one furnishing milk
shall strain the same before it is delivered at the factory, and if any is reserved for use, it shall be
of an average quality given by his cows.
V. The milk of each patron delivered at the factory shall be properly tested once in each
month during the season, and the result shall be publicly stated to those patrons requiring the same.
VI. Any patron that knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his milk in any form, or takes
out the strippings, shall forfeit the sum of iwenty-flve dollars for the first offense, and the sum of
fifty dollars for the second otfense, and for the third offense he shall forfeit his whole interest in
the factory. If his interest does not amount to seventy-five dollars, he shall pay the proprietor
enough to make seventy-five dollars. All forfeit money received shall be disbursed among the
patrons interested in tne same, in proportion to their interest. When such facts come to the
knowledge of the proprietor, he shall retain the money received for cheese, and dispose of as
aforesaid.
VII. No milk shall be worked into cheese which, In the judgment of the manufacturer, will
be a damage to the general interest of the patrons.
VIII. Each patron shall bring his milk as often as the manufacturer shall require, and at or
before the time he may require, and all cans must be washed and scalded daily, and kept sweet
and clean. ^
IX. Each patron shall be to his proportion of the expense of getting the cheese to market.
X. There shall be a coiimittee on sale of cheese, said committee to consist of three persons
having interest in the cheese. The committee shall be Wili,iam Reed, Fordyce Sylvester and
John D. Barger. Said committee shall have power to sell the cheese once in each week, if in
their judgment they think best, and shall see that the cheese is delivered according to contract.
XI. That each patron who has a load of cheese at the time of sale shall be notified bv com-
mittee on sale of cheese, and if such patron fail to appear at the time specified in the notice, he
shall pay all extra necessary expenses and damages for the delivery or failure of the same.
XII. There shall be a committee on whey ; that committee shall be composed of three pat-
rons, namely, Henry Dunbar, Thomas Speak, Russell, Sears.
XIII. Any patron may take his proportion of whey and dispose of the same ns he sees fit,
providing he notifies the whey committee in writing of the same on or before he sends his milk to
the factory, providing he draws his whey from the bottom of the whey vat; otherwise he will
have to stand the loss or gain in proportion to his milk sent to the factory. No patron shall take
"■i?^'!?'/*^*^,^'® ^^'"^"^ two-thirds as much in bulk of whey as he sends milk to the factory. No patron
enall feed whey to cows when milk is sent to the factory.
. ^ XI'^- The whey committee shall have power to dispose of the balance of the whey to the
best general interest and advantage of the patrons, in their judgment.
XV. That the profit or loss on whey shall be divided or assessed on the patrons owning the
same, in proportion to the amount of milk sent to the factory.
, ^■^^■^" '^^^ proprietor agrees to make the whey butter, and furnish sufficient to oil the cheese,
tne balance to be divided— the patrons to have one-third and the proprietor two-thirds of the
profits, the proprietor to furnish salt and tubs.
XVII. Resolved, That all cheese sold shall be paid for on delivery.
, ^ ^yill- The proprietor shall take care of the cheese up to the first of December. If kept
later, a fair compensation is to be allowed him.
XIX. Each person furnishing milk to the factory is hereby understood as agreeing to the
, Chairman.
, Clerk.
, Proprietor.
EULES POE FACTORY WHERE THE PROPRIETOR PURCHASES THE MILK OF
PATRONS.
ill ^i 77 ~ < Proprietor of the Cheese Factory, agrees as follows : To purchase the
milk of the said Patons of the Cheese Factory for the year 1871, and to commence making
cheese on or about the first of April, and close on or about the first of November next.
II. For value received, T promise to pay to each patron of the Cheese Factorv. for his
or her milk, as follows : As much per pound for his or her milk as the milk of any factory they
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 367
^L°H.f f!^f *l**^?"^.^^''!f JI?®y ''educt expenses for making: and furnishing and gettinff the cheese
'XlnsZ'^^^l'oTj^^^l^^^Lr^l^^^^^^^ "' addition, and take the Ixilk a^t the ^act^o^^.th^
taiaerho,7m;rcir;acl ' mo.ft!.Vmflk ll CT ^'' "^'^^^'"'^^ °f °^«°ey as soon as it can be ascer-
IV. The patrons are to choose, on or before the first day of June, one of the following facto-
ries for a basis to make our estimates on, namely: Charlotte Center, Arkwright UniorT, Clear
Spring:, Walnut Creek or Hamlet Factory. The factory chosen shall be by a v< te of patn/ns at a
meeting called tor that purpose. The meeting is to be called by the proprietor at any time when
twoor more of the patrons may direct. ux 0.1. aujr uuio wuen
V. Each patron may talie his proportion of the whey away ; that is, two-thirds as miioh In
bulk as he or she sends milk to the factory. If he or she takes their whey aAvay the v wilTnot be
entitled to the benefit of the three per cent., but will be entitled to all othlr tenlfits that anv
o„„», J^* f^^^- patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk and
each one furnishing- milk shall strain the same at the time of milkiAg, and if anvis reseived IV.7-
use It shall be of the average quality given by his or her cows. ^ ^®^ ^^'
fr. ^^h ,-^"'*' P'^t™" *'iat knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his or her milk in anv wnv or
of r.^ l^f^^f 'l'? P®^:^''" I'll'! brinsr his or her milk as often as the manufacturer shall require and
dii'?;,^^n'd^^bU'rpt'^'^L^!.n'S^cffl"'^^'^"" "" ^^'^^ ^"^ -"^ »^-'^ -"^^ be washed a^r?Qor
Figure 31.— Plan 1. Figuee 31.— Plan 2.
Plan 3d shows vats connected to a heater placed in front of them, which can
be either right or left. The feed-door can be placed at either end of heater.
Many other advantages are claimed for this apparatus besides those previ-
ously mentioned, but the following is the most important, viz., the manner
of applying the heat. The heating pipes, or those that distribute the hot
water in the vat, enter and extend through the vat, on each side of the tin
394
Practical Dairy Husbandry,
milk holder, thus clifFasing the heated water equally along the sides of it.
The lower or cold water pipe is attached to the bottom of the vat, and as
through this pipe the water is continually passing out to the coil, the warmer
water is gradually drawn under the tin vat ; thus the
bottom is at no time but a little warmer than the
milk or curd inside, while the majority of the heat
is transmitted through the sides of the tin vat.
This is at all times a great desideratum, but especially
in the operation of " cooking the curd," as the curd,
after it is cut, settles to the bottom. In this appa-
ratus the majority of the heat is imparted to the
curd by means of the whey, which receives its
heat from the sides of the vat; at the same time
sufficient heat is imparted to the curd that lays on
the bottom to keep it of an equal temperature with
the rest.
These heaters (Fig. 32) are made in a portable
form ; they are constructed on the same principle as
the stationary apparatus, except that they are porta- Figfee 31— Plan a
ble ; their position can be changed at any time. The heater is inclosed in a
cast-iron stove, instead of brick work. In the two smallest sizes this stove
is lined with fire brick, to prevent loss of heat by radiation into the room.
FiGmtB
The two largest sizes have a lining of common brick work, laid up on the
the inside of the castings, for the same purpose. They require but a small
amount of fuel, burn either wood or soft coal, and can be used for many
Practical Uairy Husbandry.
395
other purposes besides cheese-making. They are especially useful for steam-
ing and cooking feed for stock. When arranged for this purpose, the o-eneral
construction of the heater is the same. The only difference is that a check-
valve (see Fig. 33) is substituted for the lower stop-cock to the tank, and
396
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the pipe furnishing the hot water or steam, instead of extending out hori-
zontally, is carried up perpendicularly, and a steam separator is attached, to
which the steam pipes are connected. The principle of its operation is this :
When the stop-cock in the upper pipe is open, the water in the tank circu-
FlGURE 34.
lates through the coil, and is heated in the same manner as in the cheese vat
heaters ; but when steam is desired this stop-cock is closed, the return of the
water to the tank is thus cut off, and it remains in the heater until steam is
Figure 35.
generated, when the mixed steam and water are driven up into the separator ;
the water, beimg separated, runs back into the tank, and the steam passes off
through the pipes to the desired points. This will continue as long as the
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
397
stop-cock is open. During this operation, the coil is fed with water from the
tank, through the lower pipe.
"We give also in this connection an illustration of the vat and heater for
farm dairies, called the Oneida Farm Vat (see Fig. 34.)
enders
dinary
PAOTOKY MILK CANS.
These cans are constructed with a conical bottom (Fig. 35), which r
them very durable and strong, and does not add anything to the or
weight of the can. A solid tinned
or galvanized iron band, with a
projecting lip for the support of
the can, encloses this bottom, at-
tached by soldering. This ren-
ders it durable. We also give a
cut of the Iron Clad milk can,
(Fig. 36), which is stoutly made.
MILK CAN" HANDLES.
These handles (Figs. 37 and
38) are made especially for com-
bining a convenient handle for
carrying or lifting a cheese fac-
tory carrying can, with another
for the purpose of dumping or
tipping it when a crane is used.
Tliey are made so as to embrace
or inclose the band, which is
usually placed near the center
of the can, thus attaching them
to the strongest and stiffest part
of the can. The new pattern
(Fig. 37) is adapted to either the
ordinary hooks, or the straight
or squarely bent hooks or tongs
used in some localities, which re-
quire a hole or socket to fit them.
The old pattern (Fig. 38) is only
adapted to the ordinary lifting hooks. Another form of can handle is shown
at Fig. 39. It consists of a broad, malleable iron plate fitted to the curvature
of the side of the can, for riveting thereto ; having a flanged socket and knob,
also a hinged handle for lifting by hand ; which handle, when not in use,
drops to the side of the can. This arrangement is adapted for hoisting and
tipping the can, to empty from the top, to any and every device used for the
purpose ; whether hinged bail with hooks to fit the socket, common hook or
simple ring, fitting the outside of the barrel, neither of which can slip or
Figure 36.
398
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
unhook, and either of which will allow a complete revolution of the can.
The plate tends to strengthen and protect the can while being hoisted. The
projection of the socket and knob being bnt three-quarters of an inch outside
of the handle, it is not liable to be broken or to jam surrounding cans while
FiGUEE 37. Figure 38. Figure 39.
being carried. The handles represented at Figs. 40 and 41 are designed to
be used on the Iron Clad can (Fig. 36).
FACTORY WEIGHING CAN.
The cut (Fig. 42) represents a tin weighing can for receiving the milk as
it is brought to the factory. This can stands on the scales, and each patron's
Figure 40— Cover Handle. Figure 41— Side Handm;.
milk is emptied into it, weighed, and then allowed to run to the vats. The
bottom is made to incline to the faucet or gate, which is extra large, generally
about three inches in diameter, so that it is emptied very rapidly. A con-
ductor head (shown in Fig. 43) is placed in front of the faucet to prevent the
milk from spattering and to conduct it to the vats. The tube or pipe on the
end can be extended to any required length, though if more than three or
four feet long, it should be an open trough. Fig. 44 shows an extra strong,
large, weigh-can gate, having guides to steady and regulate the handle.
Practical Dairy Husbandrf.
399
CHEESE PRESSES.
One of the most convenient j^resses for farm dairies is tlie Oyston's Her-
kimer County Press, illustrated in Fig. 45.
Description. — Between the upper beams of the stout wooden frame two
sectors, E E, are hung by wrought iron journals in iron boxes inserted in the
beams. One of these sectors is geared on the inside and the other on the
outside. They are operated by a pinion, the shaft of which passes through
FiGUBE 42. Figure 43.
the front beam, and on which the ratchet wheel, F, is fastened. Next to the
ratchet the end of the lever, G, plays loosely, and then the crank is secured
with a pin, which also keeps the lever in its place. The pitmen, or toggle
levers, I) D, are four in number ; their upper ends are secured on wrought-iron
journals, cast solid in the sectors, and their bottom ends are pivoted to the
follower, and work in iron boxes. The follower, A, slides up and down
between the posts, and is kept perfectly steady. To operate the press the
lever, G, is raised and a dog at the back of the
lever, which plays on a strong pivot, is hooked on
to a pin in the beam and holds the lever up. The
dog, H, is then turned back so that its other end
shall take into the ratchet below the center ; the
sectors, follower, &c., are then run iip with the
crank and held up by the dog, H ; the cheese is
then put in, the dog, H, turned to the position
as now represented; the lever is then raised, which unhooks the lever
dog and allows it to take into the rachet. Then press the lever down, or
hang a weight and leave it as you please. The follower and sectors are rep-
resented about halfway down; the journals on which the strain comes move
but one-quarter of a revolution as at each operation of pressing, which con-
sumes little power and produces little wear, Avhile the pinion makes over
three revolutions, which gives the end of the lever a traverse of over eighty-
six feet.
FlGTIEB 44.
400
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
FACTORY PRESSES.
The presses at the factories (Fig. 46) are generally quite similar in con-
struction, and, except the iron screw and its fittings, are usually made upon
the spot by some carpenter. These presses are not patented, and are so
FiGUKE 45.
simple in construction that any one handy with tools can do the wood work
for less money than their cost of transportation over long distances. The
wooden frames should be made of well seasoned timber, and the parts of
sufficient size to be strong, so as not to spring or warp. The sills for holding
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
401
tlie hoops are about fifteen inches Avide and four inches thick, and the beams
ten inches by six inches thick. The posts are of the same tliickness, and of
the width of the sill at the bottom, slanting to the width of the beam at the
top. The posts should be about four feet ten inches long. The sill and beam
are let into the posts say about a half to three-quarters of an inch. The sills
stand about tAvp feet from the floor, and the beams are about two feet five
inches above the sills. The posts are set about two feet apart, which gives a
space of two feet by two feet five inches for the hoop. Iron rods with nut and
screw for the ends are used for holding the Avood Avork firmly in place, and
six or eight frames or presses may
be connected together. Fig. 46
gives their general appearance.
CHEESE PRESS SCEBAVS.
"While for private dairies lever
presses are still used to some ex-
tent, the scrcAV jDresscs have been
universally adopted by cheese fac-
torymen. The screAvs are usually
placed in benches of six or eight.
These benches, as Ave haA^e re-
marked, are made very strong,
fiom heavy timber, Avith bolts, to
hold them from spreading, betAveen
each screw. The ordinary screAV
has tAvo holes diilled in its hub,
and is turned by means of a round
iron bar. Ratchet screAVS are much
more convenient, but, as usually
made, are very objectionable, on Figuee 46-
account of their complication, thereby allowing the collection of whey
and dirt, causing them to rust and smell badly ; they are also con-
stantly getting out of order. Thj illustrations (Figs. 47 and 48) show an
improved Ratchet Cheese Press ScrcAA^, Avhich is said to entirely overcome
these objections. The scrcAv is thus constructed : A toothed or ratchet
Avheel is firmly attached to the scrcAV, leaving about an inch space betAveen
the top of the flange and the loAver side of the wheel. A lever, to which is
attached the pawl of the ratchet, is made to fit in this space, thus when
attached completing the ratchet. But as this lever can be readily removed
from or attached to the scrcAV, by merely pressing back the pawl, one lever
can be made to answer for all screws in a fixctory. It Avill thus be seen that
this arrangement combines all the advantages of the ordinary ratchet screw,
with the simplicity, strength and cleanliness of the common plain screw.
The pawl attached to the lever is made Avide enough to turn the ratchet
26
402 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
wheel, when placed either side up ; thus it can be readily adjusted to either
raise or lower the screw. The screw, when relieved of pressure, can be
Figure 47. Fisueb 48.
rapidly raised or lowered, by means ol a malleable iron handle, made
expressly for this purpose (see Fig. 49). The flange of this screw is made
very heavy and strong, and has an extra deep socket, in which the lower end
FlGUKB 49. FlSUEE 50.
of the screw is carefully fitted, so that the flange cannot tip in the least, but
will press the cheese true and even. Both the handle and lever of these
Praciical Dairy Husbandry.
403
screws are gulvanized, wliich is quite important, as the salt and acid in the
curd and whey will rust them badly. If the common screws are used, the
iron bai's for running them should always be galvanized, for the same reasons.
Another pattern of these screws (shown at Fig. 50) is simple in construc-
tion, consisting of a screw of refined wrought iron, attached to and turning
in a heavy cast base, also a heavy cast nut through which the screw works,
for fastening into the beam of the j^ress. The screws are turned by means
of a wrought iron bar inserted into holes in the collar of the screw. They
are usually of two sizes — one and three-fourths inches and one and a-half
inches in diameter. The one and three-fourths inch screw is in extreme
length twenty inches ; has thirteen inches length of screw thread ; four holes
in collar for inserting a seven-eighths inch bar, and a base nine inches in
diameter. The one and a-half inch screw is in entire length eighteen inches ;
length of screw thread, eleven and a-half inches ; four holes in collar for
three-fourths inch bar, and eight inch diameter of base. The grade and
pitch of screw are calculated for the most rapid motion compatible with
strength, great power and ease of working.
iiT^
Figure 51.
feazer's ganvj cheese press.
This press is constructed horizontally, and presses any given number of
cheese, Avith a single ratchet screw set in movable head-blocks^ so as to repeat
when run out its length. The cheeses are placed upon their edges in metallic
hoops, made in sections, with heads or covers of the same material, not
liable to shrink or swell, forming a complete box, the sections sliding
together as the pressing is performed, finishing the cheese at one operation.
The advantages claimed for it are : 1st. It saves the labor of one man,
where a large number of cheese are made. 2d. It takes xip less than one-
half the room of the old j^resses. 3d. The hoops are so constructed that the
air and whey escape as soon as pressure is applied. This is an advantage
not appreciated heretofore. 4th. The hoops also make a perfectly smooth,
rounding edge. 5th. The clieese are pressed in bandage at once — no turning
in press, nor particle of trimming. This alone saves much labor. 6th It
wdll press any number of cheese as perfectly as one. 7th. It presses perfectly
404
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
even, and cannot clo otherwise, if the press and hoops are made true. 8th.
The pressing is so gradual, on a large number of cheese, that there is no
curd forced off with the whey, as is the case with the single cheese press,
.9th. The pressing is tmiform ; as one is pressed against the other, therefore
Figure 52.
all must 1)8 pressed exactly alike. 10th. A weight is attached to the lever
to continue pressing, or indicate when manipulation is necessary. 11th.
When the screw is reversed sufficiently to relieve one cheese, they will . all
come out, saving much labor running screws up and down, as in the ordinary
press. 12tb. The hoops are made in sections for bandaging and contracting,
dispensing with all followers and bot-
tom boards. Figs. 51 and 52 illus-
trate these presses.
CHEESE PRESS HOOPS.
The hoops for pressing cheese
were formerly, and are still, to a
large extent, made from wood, but
the last few seasons galvanized iron
hoops (see Fig. 53) have been intro-
duced to a great extent, and are bet-
FlGUEE 53. . .L mi T
ter on many accounts. They do not
shrink or swell, absorb no whey, and the cheese slips out more readily.
RUBBER PRESS RINGS.
A source of considerable trouble and annoyance to cheese-makers is the
shrinking and swelling of the cheese followers ; if they fit loosely, the curd
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
405
will press up, thereby making it necessary to trim it off, thus causing a
waste of cheese. Figs. 54 and 55 illustrate an invention designed to over-
come this difficulty. Fig. 54 shows a cheese hoop cut in two perpendicularly.
A, represents the cheese hoop ; B, the follower ; C, the cheese ; E and F,
rubber washers or rings. One of these rubber rings (Fig. 55) is placed on
the inside of the cheese hoop, resting on the press board below the curd or
cheese. The other is placed above the cheese, directly under the follower.
FlGUKB 54.
FlQUKE 55.
As soon as the pressure is applied, it causes the rubber rings to expand and
fit tight to the hoops, preventing the curd from pressing either up around
the follower or out underneath the bottom of the hoop. By using these
rubber rings, the followers may fit the hoops very loosely. They are very
valuable in using for the second pressing after the bandage has been put on ;
the rings then prevent the bandage bursting at the edge, which has always
been a great annoyance, as it allows the flies to get in, producing skippers
in a place whence they can scarcely ever be gotten out.
Figure 56.
HOOPS AND WOODEN PEESS KINGS.
Hoops and wooden press rings are usually made of staves and hard wood
(see Fig. 56) doubled together and banded with riveted or welded bands*
Hoops of heavy sheet iron, galvanized, with a welded band at top and bottom,
are now generally preferred. The illustration (Fig. 56) is a perpendicular
section of a wood hoop and press rings, showing the position of the rings in
pressing, also a ring separate. The hoop is shown resting upon the press
board, in which are seen the channels for conducting ofl" the whey. A is the
406
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
follower, with its edge slightly beveled, corresponding with one side of the
upper or triangular ring, b. The lower ring, c, is in its section a right-angled
triangle, and is seen in its place at the bottom of the hoop, though by some
this ring is not considered necessary. D is the upper ring shown out of the
hoop. These rings are made of hard and tough wood by machinery, which
FiGUEE 57. Figure 58.
smoothly rives them into'a three-cornered shape and forms them into circles,
so as to tightly fit the inner surface of the hoop, with ends butted together.
The manner of using is: first place the hoop on the press board, insert the
lower ring, press it down till it is flat upon the board, put in the curd, insert
FiGTmE59. Figure 60. Figure 61.
the upper ring just below the top of the hoop, put on the follower, and it is
i-eady for the press. On removing the cheese from the hoop the rings slip
out with it. After bandaging put in the cheese and the upper ring, forcing
it down to the cheese, insert the follower and apply the pressure. By this
means nothing but the whey can pass the rings, the corners of the cheese are
left perfect, and the edge of the bandage is firmly impressed ; no press cloth
is required, though some prefer a small round cloth for top and bottom.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
407
CAST-STEEL DAIRY KNIVES FOR CUTTING UP THE CURD
are differently arranged and mounted. They are of two kinds, the perpen-
dicular and the horizontal (Figs. 57 and 58). The perpendicular is designed
to pass through the vat, cutting up the curd into columns. Then the horizontal,
passing through, cuts the columns into cubes. These knives are manufactured
of sixteen, eighteen and twenty inch lengths, and from four to thirty blades
each — to cut perpendicularly. The blades are now tin plated. From four to
fifteen blades, the blades are half an inch apart; the twenty-blade knives are
three-eighths of an inch, and the thirty-blade knives quarter of an inch apart.
The four to six blades inclusive have handles on top of head, as in illustration
Fig. 59. The seven to thirteen blades have handle on side of head as in Fig.
60. The twenty and thirty blades have handles on both side and top of
head, as shown on the horizontal cutting knife in the illustration. The
thirty-blade perpendicular knife is intended for use where cheese is made
PlGUKE 62.
FiGUEE 63.
FiGTIBB 64
in the " coarse curd process," and is passed through the curd but once,
cutting it into slices. The other perpendicular knives are passed through
the curd both length and crosswise. The horizontal knives (Fig. 61) are
eighteen and twenty inches long ; four, six and eight inches wide ; with blades
half an inch apart. This knife is not intended to take the place of the per-
pendicular knife, but to be used in connection with it. After cutting the
curd length and crosswise, this knife cuts the columns into cubes. For dairy
use, four to seven blades, perpendicular, and four inch horizontal ; for cheese
factory, eleven and thirteen blades perpendicular, and eight inch horizontal.
The rake agitator (Figure 62) is used for the purpose of agitating the curd
while cooking, is very convenient and will save much labor. This is made
of wood and tinned wire. The illustration (Fig. 63) gives another form of the
agitator. Whey strainer and siphon (Figure 64), for the purpose of drawing
408
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
off the whey. The lower part of the strainer is made of perforated tin. The
syphon lias a faucet attached to one end, with a valve at the other, so con-
structed that when filled with whey they will prevent it from escaping. It
can then be carried to the vat in which the strainer is jDlaced, the valve end
of the syphon is inserted in the strainer, the faucet end hanging over the
trough for conducting off the whey. The whey immediately commences to
run through the syphon on opening the faucets.
CURD-MILLS, DAIRY-DIPPERS, ETC.
Curd Mills are now coming into general use in many sections of the coun-
try. Figure 65 represents the McAdam Mill ; it is constructed from iron,
with the exception of the frame and hopper, which is wood ; it is geared up
so as to run rapidly, and has a heavy balance-wheel to make it run easily.
They are invaluable where the Cheddar system is adopted, and will be
found a valuable article, particularly in hot weather wlien the milk is often
not in the very best condition. At such times it has the effect of improving
the quality of the curd by finely divid-
ing, cooling and exi^osing it to the air ;
equalizing its character and insuring
more perfect salting.
We give an illustration in Figure 66
of Ralph's American Curd Mill. Re-
ferring to the illustration it will be seen
that the mill is fitted for lying upon the
top of the cheese-vat or sink, and may
be moved at pleasure or permanently
Figure 65. Secured at one place. It consists of a
wood frame, upon which is secured a metallic rack with curved I'ibs ; in this
rack lie the picking cylinder or cylinders which are of tinned iron ; each
cylinder having two rows of teeth set spirally, which teeth by the revolving
of the cylinders, gradually enter between the curved ribs of the rack, carry-
ing before them the picked curd into the receptacle below.
The peculiarity of this machine is in the metallic cylinders, and the action
of the teeth through the ribs of the curved rack, by means of which the curd
is not only easily and rapidly picked up, but being gradually passed through
the ribs, is not mashed, nor the butter separated from it.
The cut represents a double cylinder or factory size, the cylinders being
geared together. The dairy size has a single cylinder ; they are worked by
hand with a crank, also arranged for power, being furnished with a balance-
wheel to carry a belt.
Dairy dippers (Figure 67) should be made from IXXXX tin, and hold
from three to four quarts, the seams should be well filled with solder, and
they should be made plain and smooth. Figure 68 is a flat-sided pail made
for the purpose of dipping out the curd from the vat ; it should be made from
Practical Dairi Husbandry. 409
heavy tin, with bail, and a handle in the back. A curd-scoop (Figure 69)
should accompany it, which is made from tin, somewhat in the shape of an
ordinary dust-pan, but made heavier and more carefully soldered. The curd
sink should be mounted on castors, so as to be readily moved in any direction ;
these castors (Figure VO) should be made very heavy and substantial, with a
FlSTJBE 66.
projecting lip to take the weight off from the screws that fasten it to the legs
of the sink. The wheel shank is so secured in the socket, that while it allows
the wheel to revolve freely, it cannot slip out of place. The castors are
secured to the legs by wood screws ; the bottom of the legs of the sink
resting upon projecting lips made to receive them. Four constitute a set.
FiGUEE 67. FlGUEE 68.
Rubber mops (Figure Vl), a most desirable article for cleaning a wet
floor, will save their cost in brooms several times dui'ing a season. No
cheese factory will be without then when once tried.
Dairy thermometers (Figure 72) should be made with a heavy brass back,
and a small loose tin collar to slip over the bulb to protect it ; the handiest
size is the ten-inch. The most approved patterns are now j)lated with nickel.
410
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
SCALES.
Good scales are an important feature in cheese factory fixtures. We give
in Figs. 73, 74, 75, 76 and 77 difi'ereut forms of the Howe scales. These
FiauKB 69.
FiGXIEE 70.
PlGUEE 71.
o
scales are accurate and reliable. By introducing chilled iron balls between
the platform, and by making all the bearings self-adjusting ^ they
take nearly all the wear from the pivots, upon the sharpness of
which the accuracy and durability of all scales very largely
depend. Fig. 74 represents a platform scale on wheels. This,
or the one shown in Fig. 73, is the kind wanted by every cheese
factory for weighing the milk when it is ti:vken in. About six
hundred pound scales are the most desirable. Either of the
scales shown in Figs. 75 and 76 are very convenient for weighing
salt, &c., in cheese making, but the best to purchase in most cases is
the Improved Union Scales (Fig. 77), as they not only answer for
weighing small things, but have a convenient platform for
weighing cheese or any heavy article. The Joi^es Scales are
very similar in construction to the above, and are good, reliable
scales. We give in Fig. 78 a cut of the Jones Stock Scales,
which are found useful in weighing very heavy weights.
THE RECTANGULAR CHEESE.
Cheese has been made from time to time in a variety of
shapes. In England and America the cylindrical form has always
been most popular. Other shapes, such as the " pine-apple," the
" cannon ball," the " Limberger " or brick shape, and the " French
cakes," have been, each and all, of limited demand. Some of
these shapes, such as the " pine-apple," have been made and are
still made in small quantities in this country, and as a fancy
Figure 72. article they sell at comparatively high prices. The " cannon
ball " was at one time made in certain districts of New York to supply the
xi
210
\ pi
200
i 1
180-
f \
I/O'
ISO-
150-
no-
e; i
130-
120-
i „..
no-
= ;""'
100-
-1 U»«.r» i
90-
=j ;
80-
= ;
70-
1 \
GO
- ^%
SO-
■tO
E ; FBCn
30
- ; ^""'
20
1 \
10
% ■
1 '- 1
10
a| 1
^^^^
1 '^ ' '
ll^J
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
411
Navy. The " Edam " of Holland is round like a ball, and on account of its
small size finds ready sale in England, Avliere it is in favor among the lower
classes, the farm laborers, and those who desire a low priced cheese, and
cannot aiford to indulge in the better sorts. The Limberger is only suited to
German tastes. It is rank in taste and smell, and comparatively few English-
men or Americans have learned to like it. It is manufactured to some extent
in this country to supply our German population, but is not exported. The
FlGUEE 73.
FiGXJEE 74.
FiGUEE 75.
French cakes have not been made in America. A good deal has been said
at one time and another about changing the cylindrical or common shape of
our cheese to a square or oblong form. And the reasons urged for this
change are that the present shapes entail a heavy expense in boxing, while
they cannot be cut in small pieces to advantage. A wedge of cheese, it is
contended, must always leave more waste, when it4s divided up for the table,
than the same Aveight in a square form, and as small cubical blocks are more
pleasing to the eye than irregular pieces cut from a wedge, this alone is good
reason why a square or cubical-shaped cheese should be made. But ac the
Figure 76.
FiGUEB 77.
material for making cylindrical boxes is growing scarce and exj)ensive, a
cheese of another form is required to meet this difficulty. Square boxes are
not only more economical in cost of material and in the labor of making, but
as they can be packed closer, there would be a gain over round boxes in
the matter of freight when sending to market. These are the arguments
that have been urged by the advocates of this radical change in cheese manu-
facture. On the other hand, serious objections have been suggested against
412
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the proposed change. In the first place a reputation has been established in
the markets for cheese of a particular shape, and it is a question whether the
prejudices of consumers for these shapes could be readily overcome. It was
thought, too, by many, that by making cheese in a square form the corners
and edges Avould be more liable to break in handling, and finally, that there,
would be difficulty in securing the bandage, and thus the matter has rested
until quite recently.
Tlie first practical experiments in the way of making square-shaped
cheeses, we believe, are due to Mr. Holdkidge of Otsego county, N. Y. He
has been for several years developing his system of cheese manufacture, but
his plans were not fully matured until last year, when his new style of cheese
was put upon the markets. We have seen several letters written by dealers
who have handled the " Holdridge cheese," in which its shape and quality
are highly commended, and from which it appears that sales have been
readily made at good figures. As the plan adopted by Mr. Holdkidge is
original, and may be somewhat new to the dairy public, I shall briefly allude
to some of its leading features. In the first place the curds are pressed in a
square box, arranged with fol-
lower, &c., on the plan of the
common hoop. The cubical
block of curd is then removed
from the frame and cut with a
fine saAV into blocks of the
desired size. For these blocks
Mr. HoLDEiDGE adopts an ob-
FiGUKE 78. long form, the ends being
square. A strip of bandage cloth, just wide enough to wrap around these
blocks, (a small piece having previously been adjusted on the ends), is wet in
water. The dampness causes it to adhere to the cheese. The blocks of curd
are then simply laid upon the cloth and rolled over tmtil the sides are covered,
when the ends are lapped down, and this completes the process of bandaging.
The bandaged blocks are then laid in the hoop in the same order in which
they were cut, the courses being separated by thin boards, and when in place
form a cubical mass. Then the follower is adjusted and pressure applied in
the same Avay as for ordinary cheese. This process fastens the bandage
securely, and after being properly pressed the frame is taken off, the blocks
separated and put upon the shelves. While curing, these blocks of cheese
are turned from day to day, but only a quarter revolution at a time. Mr.
Holdkidge claims that the escape of the whey by evaporation is greatly
facilitated by the form of the cheese, inasmuch as the whey percolates towards
the bottom, and the turning being only a quarter revolution, or at right
angles, it constantly tends toward the outside, while in the ordinary form of
cheese the turning from one side to the other has a tendency to keep the
whey in the center of the cheese. In the block-shaped cheese, therefoi-e, the
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 413
whey is so flir dissipated that decomposition is less liable to take place, and
further, that the cheese can be preserved without tlie greasing process com-
monly employed. He claims also that for the retail trade the block cheese is
of great advantage, since the dealer can weigli the whole cheese and cut by
measure the exact weight desired. And again, for family use they are
superior, since by turning the bandage back from the end a thin slice may be
cut off for the table, the bandage replaced and the cheese set on end, thereby
excluding the freshly cut surface from the air, preventing drying and the
attack of flies.
In the manuficture of small cheeses it will be observed the i^lan proi^osed
must be a great saving in presses and hoops, while the ease and rapidity of
adjusting the bandage is a matter of some consideration. I have examined
the HoLDETDGE rectangular appliances for pressing Avith considerable care.
The whole is very simple, easily operated, and not liable to get out of order.
The plan, if successfully adopted, must save a large amount of labor at cheese
factories, since one curb and one j^i'ess is sufficient for a large quantity of
curd. Then the cheese can be made of any desired weight without going to
the extra expense of procuring hoops and presses and scre'ws to meet the
emergency. For making small sized cheeses, say from ten to thirty pounds,
it would seem to be admirably adapted. Small sized cheeses are very much
needed in the home trade, and are not supplied in sufficient quantity for the
reason that manufacturers have not been willing to take the extra expense
of labor and appliances for their production. Under the rectangular plan
most of the objections to making a small sized cheese are obviated. We see
no reason w^hy the rectangular cheese cannot be made of equal quality with
other shapes. Indeed, Ave have tested numerous samples made at different
seasons of the year, and have found them excellent. The small expense in
boxing this style of cheese alone commends it to favorable consideration.
But of course the prejudice for round shapes among certain consumers may
interfere for a time with the general introduction of rectangular cheese. Still
from the success already obtained for this plan, and the favor with which the
cheese has been received in the home and foreign markets, there is reason to
believe that the oblong shapes are destined to work a revolution in the old
styles of cheese. We hear of a number of factories this year, 1871, entering
upon their manuf icture, and by the end of the season enough cheeses will
have been made to fully test the feeling of different markets in regard to the
new shapes.
We give a cut (Fig. 79) representing the curb and press, and the manner
in which the cheese is placed for pressure. A represents cheese with
bandage. B, composite mold. C, square curb or hoop. D and E, mortised
slips for connecting the hoops. Mr. Holdridge, the inventor, gives the
following statement as regards the comparative cost of making rectangular
cheese and round cheese, together with the directions for pressing, ban-
414
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
daging and boxing, which will be useful to those proposing to adopt this
style of manufacture :
Saving in Boxes^ Down Weights and Handling. — ComparatiTe cost of
manufacture, boxing, &c., of one hundred pounds of cheese made into ten
pound rectangular cheese, or made into fifty jjound round cheese : — Ten
Figure 79.
rectangular cheese, five by five by ten inches, weigh one hundred pounds.
Two round cheese, fifteen inches in diameter and eight inches high, weigh
one hundred pounds. Bandage for round cheese, three-quarters wide, say
one yard, costs six cents; to box two such cheese, forty-four cents. Total
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 415
cost for one hundred pounds, fifty cents. Bandage for ten rectangular cheese,
as above, three yards, three-quarters wide, cost eighteen cents ; boxes for one
hundred pounds, thirty cents. Total cost per one hundred pounds, forty-eight
cents ; a saving of two cents per one hundred pounds.
Comparing ten pound rectangular with fifty pound round cheese : — These
small cheeses are packed eighteen (one hundred and eighty jDounds) in a case.
The same amount of cheese in fifty pound round cheese would require three
down weights or more — a loss of two weights, not less than one pound of
cheese as compared with the small cheese — worth sixteen cents. A saving
of about nine cents per one hundred pounds, which, added to the two cents
saved as above, makes not less than eleven cents per one hundred pounds
saved thus far in favor of rectangular small cheese. Tliis saving greatly
increases as the size of the round cheese compared with the rectangular
diminishes.
Compare twenty-five povmds rectangular Avith the same size round cheese:
Round cheese of this weight are about thirteen inches in diameter and six
inches high. Rectangular cheese, same weight, are seven by seven by four-
teen inches. The bandage for round cheese, per one hundred pounds, costs
seven cents ; four boxes at sixteen cents, sixty-four cents. Total for one
hundred pounds, seventy-one cents. Rectangular cheese : — Bandage, twelve
cents ; boxes, twenty-five cents. Total per one hundred jDOunds, thirty-peven
cents ; saved, thirty -four cents. To this should be added seven down weights
saved, (three and a-half pounds of cheese), to case of eight cheeses, per one
hundred pounds, twenty-eight cents. Total saved per one hundred pounds,
sixty-two cents. In comparing fifty jDound round cheese with rectangular
cheese eight by eight by sixteen inches, weighing same, the saving per one
hundred pounds is thirty cents. The above figures do not include the
saving in screws, hoops and frames, nor in labor required to take Care of them.
Saving in IIoops^ Screws, Sc. — To manufacture the milk from five hun-
dred cows requires hoops, screws and appurtenances to take care of at least one
thousand pounds of curd. To maniifacture this into fifty pound round cheese
Avould require twenty hoops, screws, frames, &c., and would cost not less
than $15 per set ; total, $300. To manufacture the same curd into rectangu-
lar cheese, twenty-five pounds each, would, if pressed into eight cheeses, two
hiuidred pounds in a curb, require but five curbs, which, Avith screws and
frames, would not cost over $150. A net saving of fifty per cent. To make
the same amount of curd into ten pound rectangular cheese would require,
if pressed in curbs thirty by thirty inches, two cheese in thickness, three
curbs and fixtui'es, and would not cost over $100.
Saving in Soxes. — We box eight cheese, thirty-pound size, in one case
— two hundred and forty pounds — and the box will cost not over sixty cents,
and can be furnished for less, as they can be made of pieces of boards and
refuse lumber. We box the ten-pound size, eighteen in a case — one hundred
. and eighty pounds — and boxes cost each sixty cents. By comparing these
I
416 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
figures with the cost of boxes for round cheese, per one hundred pounds tlie
saving in expense is readily seen. We can use the same screws and frames
as used with hoojDS. The common round hoops cost about |5 each, and pres^
from twenty-five to fifty pounds of curd. Our curbs cost from |15 to |20
each, and press from two hundred to four hundred pounds, or more. Curbs
without sections cost twenty per cent, less. The expense of these can be
lessened by using one or more locked or hinged curbs, with boxes dove-
tailed or screwed together for first pressing the curd. And when several
locked curbs are used they do not all require sections. Much less room for
presses is required and the drying room can be much smaller for these
cheeses than for round ones, as they occupy less space on the table or shelves,
and the shelves can be placed one above the other. The rooms can be better
ventilated, as the cheese are bandaged all over and will not crack. By usino-
our style of press or curb, cheese can be pressed as long as desired, as each
day's cheese can be jDut under one press.
TJie Press Cloths. — Two press cloths are used Avith each curb. A square
one, a little larger than tlie curb, and a long one, of sufllcient length to reach
around inside of the curb, and wide enough to protect the sides of the curb.
Place the square press cloth upon the press board and put the curb upon it.
Put in the long press cloth around the inside of the curb, and let it lap about
an inch upon the bottom towards the center of the curb. If this cloth be not
wide enough to cover the top of the cheese, a small square cloth should be
used. Put in curd enough to make the cake of required thickness. Put in
the follower and press the curd till next morning, or till sufficiently formed
to cut. Having removed the screw, lift up one side of the curb and" pull the
bottom press cloth back half way, then lift up the other side and remove thej
cloth. -Take out the pins and loosen and remove the curb and side and top ■
press cloths, and the cake is ready to cut. Cut the cake by measure into
desired sizes.
To Bandage the Cheese.— Cwt the bandage into strips, one inch wider
than the length of the cheese, and of sufficient length to reach around the
cheese and lap about an inch. Also cut square pieces one inch larger than
the end of the cheese. Place the pieces of bandage in a vessel of water, and
put on the bandage wet. Place the end pieces on first, lapping over the ends
one-half an inch all around. The side piece is put on as follows : Place one
end of the bandage near the middle of the uppermost side of the cheese,
spread it smoothly and turn the cheese from the person, and the bandage can
be put on very smooth. Smooth over the corners and ends, and replace the
cheese into the curb for second pressing. Where quantities of this cheese
are made, we use a common table having on the under side a trough of water,
and the bandage is cut into long strips of proper width and placed in the
water in rolls on spools, and through slots in the table is drawn np as
required, and cut off" as each cheese is bandaged. This is a very simple and
cheap arrangement, and will greatly assist in preparing and putting on the .
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry. ' 417
bandage. The bandaged cheese having been piled upon the press board,
the curb is locked around it. Between each layer of cheese jjlace an inch
board same size as the follower. Nothing but the bandage is placed between
the cheeses in the same layer. Apply the screw and press as long as desired.
When the cheeses are first put upon the shelves or tables, place them close
together for a few days, to prevent drying too fast, and after that keep them
about an inch apart — to be governed by the weather and how fast they are
desired to dry. The cheese should be rubbed and turned a quarter revolu-
tion daily, and kept nice and clean.
JBoxes. — We box these cheese as follows : Ten-pound cheese, eighteen
cheeses in a case. Twenty to thirty-pound cheese, eight cheeses in a case.
The boxes are made of one-half inch stuff for the sides, and inch stuff for the
ends and middle partition. The end pieces are set in a little from the ends
of the sides, and a small cleat nailed around the outside of the heads, as shown
in the engraving, makes them very firm. The middle i^iece is same size and
shape as the heads. A cleat is put around the boxes outside at the ends and
middle to keep them from being packed too closely together. This cleat
should be of one-half inch stuff, and about an inch wide. (This cleat does
not show in engraving.) The lumber should all be planed, it looks so much
better ; and if the cover is fastened on with screws, it will be an advantage,
as shippers and others can inspect the cheese without injury to the box, and
where the market is not too far off the empty boxes can be returned. A
thin piece of veneer or board, of same size as side of cheese, should be j)ut
between each cheese in the box, as a scale board, and the boxes should^ always
lie so that the cheese stand on end. It pays well to make a neat looking
package. Butter dairymen understand this, and know that the price of their
butter is sei'iously affected by the appearance of the jaackage. We know
from experience that good, neat looking boxes for our cheeses are a profit-
able investment.
THE CHEESE RACK AND SETTEE,
•were considered indispensable in the curing rooms of the early factories, but
the necessity now for their use is not so great. Indeed, with the medium-
sized cheese now generally made, many prefer the simple table on which to
place the cheese while curing, as it is easier cleaned and affords more room.
The cheese rack consists of scantling (four by five inches) with the corners
beveled or cut so as to be five-sided ; these ai'e framed the proper distance
at the ends and set on legs of the desired hight, forming a skeleton table.
Or, instead of legs, arms may be framed into the posts which support the
floors of the curing room, and upon these arras the scantling are placed to
form the rack. Then round covers of inch hemlock or pine, bound with
stout elm rims, three or four inches wide, set upon the racks and hold the
cheese. When the cheese is to be turned, a spare cover is placed on top, and
the cheese and covers turned over ; the cover now on top is removed, rubbed
with a cloth, and is ready to be applied to the next cheese. The rims of the
27
418
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
covers protect tbe edges of the cheese in the process of turning • and a part
of the cheese swinging down in the open space between the timbers, and the
rims resting on the beveled sides, renders the operation not only easy but
insures safety to the cheese. A lai-ge cheese can be turned with as much
ease on a properly constructed rack as the loosening of the cheese on the
table preparatory to being turned. Large cheeses are difficult to handle on
a table, and are liable to have their edges broken or in other ways marred
in turning. The illustration (Fig. 80) gives an idea of the manner of con-
structing the rack.
CONVENIENT APPLIANCES.
In the construction and fitting up of factories, it is very important to have
every department as conveniently arranged as possible. Attention should
be given to have every appliance for saving labor and facilitating all the
various operations. Good factory hands are comparatively scarce, and com-
mand large wages. By having conveniently arranged buildings and handy
implements, the labor of one or two persons may be saved, and this is an
FiGUKE
important item. In a recent visit to Chautauqua County, I found some
things adopted at the Sinclairville Factory, by which the operations were
very expeditiously conducted. The Sinclairville Factory is one of the
largest in the State of New York, receiving the milk of fifteen hundred cows
and upward. Where such a large quantity of milk is received at one place,
it is evident more than ordinary attention must be given to have the various
parts of the factory and its appliances so as to be convenient, for if otherwise
there would be great liability of neglect from time to time, which would
result in damaging the product
THE MAIN BUILDING
is one hundred and twenty feet by fifty feet, three stories high, and this
structure is wholly employed as a dry house or cheese curing department.
The two lines of posts running through the central part of the building, in
the several stories, to support the frame, are also made of use in holding the
arms on which the tables or shelves rest, one above the other, thereby giving
the building capacity for storing a large number of cheeses. Some idea of
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 419
its capacity will be liad from the fact that at one time nine thousand cheeses
(fifteen-inch size) were stored upon the shelves.
THE MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT
is in a wing extending in a line with the main building, one hundred and
thirty feet long by thirty-two feet broad, and one story high. From the
main building to the end of the wing the floor has one foot fall. The floor
also descends from either side toward the center, where there is a narrow
ditch for conducting ofi" the whey and slops. The vats are upon one side and
the presses upon the other side, opposite. The space from the vats to the
side of the building occupied by the presses is eleven feet, which gives ample
room for the sink, provided with large casters, to move up and down between
the vats and presses as desired, while sufficient room is given on either side
of the sink for the hands to work in, stirring the curds, &c., &c.
THE SINK
is three feet two inches wide by thirteen feet four inches in length. The
bottom is made dishing, and is of matched pine, except in the center, where
there is a narrow strip of perforated tin, through which the whey escapes to
a movable trough, which is a little wider than the tin, and fits up close to
the bottom of the sink, so that all the whey dripping from the curds is
caught. At the upper end of the manufacturing department, and adjoining
the dry-house, a space thirty feet long is devoted to
A DRESSING ROOM.
There are tables along the side of this department, where the cheese,
when taken from the press, are received and dressed preparatory to going
forward into the dry-house. At the lower end of the manufactory there is
an open shed or covered drive-way, where the teams deliver milk. Upon
one side stand the platform scales, three and a-half feet higher than the floor
of the drive-way. The usual weighing can and its accompanying tin milk
conductor are not used at this factory. Instead, there is a truck running on
rails along the heads of vats. This truck has a platform about the same
hight from the floor as that upon which the scales rest. When the milk
teams come in, the cans are moved directly from the wagon to the scales,
and after being weighed go upon the truck, which is then moved along to
the head of the vat and dumped. One edge of the platform on the truck is
cut down lower than the others, and has a notch to receive the bottom of the
can on this side, so as to facilitate dumping, and also to prevent the can
from slipping while being dumped. The platform scales being about the
same hight as the milk wagons, there is no difficulty in rolling the can upon
the scales, and from the scales to the dumping truck. Each patron's can is
weighed and marked, so that the weight of milk is rapidly obtained. There
is no bother with cranes, no weighing can to be kept clean, no milk con-
ductor to look after, while the operation of weighing and delivering the milk
420
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
to the vats, Mr. Burnham, the proprietor, says, can be done quite as rapidly ,
and safely as by the usual method, and with no more labor. On the other ll
hand, a very large amount of work in cleaning weighing can and milk con-
ductors is obviated during the season, while at the same time there is less
liability of sour milk, &c., arising from neglect on the part of factory hands
to keep these utensils in j^roper order. The arrangement seemed to be
convenient, as it certainly was ingenious, and being so different from the
usual plan of delivering milk, may prove suggestive to those persons who
are about to build cheese factories.
THE CURD FILLER.
Another handy device in use at this factory is that for filling the hoops
with curd. A tin form (see Fig. 81) just large enough to slip down inside
the hoop is used. It is a little longer than the hoop, and is surmounted by
a flaring top, and when in place, has the appearance of a common tin pan
sitting upon the hoop (see Fig. 82).
Figure 81.
Figure 82.
Now, when the hoop is to be filled with curd, the lower or smaller end
of this tin form receives a circular piece of cotton cloth just large enough to
cover the bottom and come up over the edges of the tin outside — say about
an inch. The cloth having been dampened and spread over the tin, is pushed
into the hoop. It covers the bottom of the hoop, and the edges, of course,
are held between the hoop and the tin, about an inch high all around the
hoop. The curd is now placed in the hoop, and when full the tin form drawn
out, which leaves the bottom cloth with edges turned up between the curd
and hoop, preventing the escape of the curd during pressure. A circular cap
of cloth is put on the top when the follower is adjusted and the cheese goes
to press. By this device the use of large pressing-cloths is avoided, while a
nice surface is secured to the cheese, making a considerable saving, not only
in expense for cloth, but in labor of washing, &c.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
421
THE BANDAGING MACHINE.
This is another convenient arrangement by which a cheese can be very
expeditiously bandaged. It consists simply of a circular-topped stool (see
Figure 83) for placing the cheese upon as it comes from the press. The top
of the stool is about the same diameter as that of the cheese to be bandaged.
A strip of tin is bent into a circle, so that it may be made to inclose the
cheese. The ends are not joined together (see Figure 84), so that it may be
contracted or exj)anded. It is provided with handles.
Now, when the cheese is to be bandaged, it is placed upon the stool, the
circular tin contracted so as to readily receive the bandage, when it is allowed
to expand, and is then forced down over the cheese and over the stool, or so
far as is necessary to make a lap of bandage for the under side of the cheese.
FiGUEE 83. FiGUKE 84.
Then the tin is withdrawn, leaving the bandage nicely in place. The work
is very rapidly effected, without trouble or tearing the bandage; and a
closer and better fit may be made than where the bandage is drawn on by
hand, as in the old way.
THE MILK TESTER.
In testing of milk, from time to time, the common lactometer, or set of
glass tubes graduated, is used. But instead of marking the name of the
patron back of each tube to designate it, as is usual at many factories,
figures (see Figure 85) are used, which refer to corresponding names kept
in a private book. Thus the tests may be conducted without arousing suspi-
cion or causing unpleasant feeling among the patrons on account of subjecting
the milk to a test. This plan seems to be altogether preferable to the use of
names directly on the apparatus, since all unpleasant remarks concerning
certain specimens of milk by those going through the factory are avoided, as
the names corresponding with the numbers are known only to the factory
manager, and can be kept secret by him. We give an illustration herewith
422
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
of the glass tubes set in a frame, and each with its appropriate number on
the board at the back part of the frame.
THE " YOUNG AMERICAN " CHEESE.
Small cheeses of the " Young America " style have been manufactured at
this factory, and sales for such have averaged considerably more than for
large cheese. These cheeses are pressed in hoops seven inches in diameter
and the cheeses made from six to seven inches high. S^eral are pressed \
together under one screw — in some cases as many as sixteen. They are set
together, the followers adjusted, and a thick, wide plank put upon the
blocking, so that the whole may be pressed evenly and alike. In boxing |
these cheeses for market, twenty-one and a-half inch boxes are used, and
seven cheeses put in a box. One cheese stands in the center of the box, and
the others are arranged about it, and they thus fill the box, so that 'they
may be safely sent to market, without moving about or marring. We were
much pleased with several other features at this factory, but which we have
no space now to describe.
Fi&UKE 85.
ON FACTORY BUILDINGS AND FIXTURES.
The following from the pen of Dr. L. L. Wight, who has had large expe-
rience in the management of factories, will appropriately close this branch
of our work :
^' The first thing to be considered in selecting a site for building, after
having secured a sufficient number of cows, is a plentiful supj^ly of cold,
running water. The quantity should not be less than sufficient to fill a two-
inch pipe, for the milk oPf every five hundred cows. The temperature of this
water should not rise above sixty degrees in the warmest weather of summer.
Instead of erecting the buildings over some low, marshy, swampy ground,
where water, slop and whey will settle and stagnate and infect the superin-
cumbent air, as is too often the case, by all means select some dry, hard, airy
location, a little descending to the rear, and with a continuous descent from
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 423
the building, to insure the escape of all decomposing liquids to a safe distance.
The size of the main building should be thirty-two feet wide, two stories
high, of eight feet each in the clear, and the length will depend upon the
amount of milk anticipated. A building seventy-five feet long will accommo-
date the milk from five or six hundred cows. Let the piers be made very
substantial, extending to a depth beyond the possibility of frost, and not be
over about ten feet apart in either direction. The main timbers, being ten
by twelve inches square, support thi'ee by ten inch joists, not set in gains but
resting on the cross-sills. The joists must be sound and set not over sixteen
inches apart, being well bridged. The flooring of the manufactory, made
of well-matched, sound yellow pine-plank, inclines three inches from the front,
to a substantial box-drain made in the floor, four feet from the rear. The
floor also inclines slightly from the rear to said drain. The drain drops from
each end of the manufactory to the center, where it enters another box which
conveys all slop, whey, etc., to a safe distance from the building. The entire
outside is covered with well-seasoned, matched, sound pine-siding. The
entire sides and ends of the manufacturing part, inside, are ceiled with pine.
The ceiling is well plastered. The curing-rooms have floors laid with good,
sound, seasoned spruce flooring. The sides are double-plastered, so as to make
two fixed air spaces. The ceilings are also all well plastered. There need
be no posts to support the floor. The second floor is supported by iron rods
suspended from bridges in the attic. The entire building is well lighted by
double-sash windows, which are supplied with good rotary outside blinds.
Thorough ventilation of the curing-room is secured by the building being
elevated so far above the ground as to admit of an abundance of air ; and
the insertion of large registers in each bent, under every counter in the first
and second floors, and by good ventilators through the attic floor and roof.
By careful attention to these registers, and keeping the blinds closed in hot
and sunny days, the temperature can usually be kept at a sufficiently low
degree, even in the warmest weather. An ice chamber in the attic, so
arranged as to register the cold, moist air into the curing-rooms below, would
likely at times be beneficial. The curing-rooms are supplied with counters
twenty-four inches high and three feet wide ; each table being made of two
seventeen-inch wide pine plank, with a two inch space between them.
Matched boards under cheese are objectionable, from the greater difficulty
of cleansing and the danger of skippers infesting the cracks. It is better to
have the counters two feet distant from each other for the convenience of the
laborers, cheese-buyers and visitors. The manufacturing-room will be sepa-
rated from the curing-room below by a tight double partition, with a large
sliding door in the center, between the two lines of presses. The length of
the manufacturing and pressing-room, in a building Of the size above men-
tioned, would be thirty-five or forty feet. The boiler-room, and wood or
coal-room will be erected at the end and adjoining the manufactory, having
easy entrance thereto. A building about thirteen feet square should be
*24 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
attached to the front of the manufactory, containing a drive-way and a
receiving-platform. The platform will be closed toward the drive-way
except a shde window to receive tl^ milk through, and be open toward the
vats. The center of this building will correspond to the center of the vats
so that the receiving-can may stand equi-distant from each outside vat The
ground of the drive-way is four and one-half feet below the top of the weigh
mg-can. The receivmg-platform is about one foot higher than the top of the
milk-vats. This building is supplied with means to hoist the cans of milk
either by a crane-derrick, or, what is preferable, a hoisting wheel. Permit
no faucets in the transporting cans, as they cause the milk to taint when not
cleansed thoroughly, and are liable to be neglected. The wooden vats being
about fifteen feet m length, it gives three feet between the receivinc-platform
and the end of the vats ; two feet between the vats and the curd-sink ; two
feet between the curd-sink and the presses, and two feet between the presses
and the rear of the building. The vats are separated two feet from each
other, and three feet from the end of the building. The wooden vats almost
invanably leak, and I think it would be better to have them lined with sheet-
lead. The tin vats should be made of the largest sheets of tin, of the best
quahty, and be soldered together very smoothly. The wooden vat should
rminTtVth l"" "'"'"^^ ''' one-half length of the vat, and not
coming to the edge or upper end within four inches. The wooden vats
fThe fit 'Vh"" r' "^'' ''^' ^^'^^"'"^^ '^ ^^^ ^-^' '^ ^^ - the wa;
the v!t !bv "T --venient way of raising and lowering the foot of
the vat 1. by means of a standard, spring and catch, attached to the floor and
the lower end of the vat. The space between the last vat and the curing-
"oTnrsaltT""" r T '"" '' P"^^^^' ^"^ ^''' -ffi--* -om fi
Ind Live f ' '"T- ' • TT" J""' '"■ ^^"^"^^ ^^P^°-' conductors, pails
and knives for washing-smk, hot and cold water barrels, etc. Supply each
milk vat with a water pipe of at least three-quarters of an inch bore. The
water, after having circulated around and cooled the milk, will be conducted
a7J^ "'^. ^"^ ^'^'"^'^ '^' P°^^^ t° ^°^« t^« "^i^k agitator, of which
t? 1. !, ^'. '' recommended. If the factory is to receive the milk of
^11 .^'t T\ '' """'''' ^'' ^ '''"™ ^"^^°^ ''^ ''^' ^^«« than two horse-
LTnditn' f 1 "^ ""' ^''' '^"" " '^" torse-power. It requires the
expendituie of a large quantity of steam to warm the milk, and you want to
DC sure of it just when you need it ; and the engine will enable you to pump
water into the boiler, to grind your curds, to churn, if you wish, to saw your
wood, or perform what other service soever you may desire. If you have a
less number of cows than above indicated, a patent heater manufactured by
Chakles Millar & Son of Utica, will heat the milk gradually and very
perfectly and gives general satisfaction. If you do not grind your curds you
will need two curd-sinks, so as to give greater facility for cooling the curds ,
before putting to press. Your milk conductors will be large, stout, and open 1
at the top to msure easy cleansing. Procure a good curd-mill to be used at '
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 425
least in hot weather. You want one gang knife of thirty blades, with one-
fourth inch spaces, and one horizontal curd knife. If you use a steam boiler
use the steam dry, afcer the method patented by Mr. Schekmerhoen. Alto-
gether the best method of warming the curing-room is by steam from the
boiler. This gives a more equable temperature, and a raoister, purer atmos-
phere. The next best mode of heating is by a furnace, well supplied with
water for evaporation. Wood or coal stoves do not sufficiently equalize the
temperature. Having an ice chamber in the attic, you can perform the
double operation of cooling and moistening the rooms at any time. Curd-
rakes, to keep the curd from packing, are nearly as indispensable as curd-
knives. The paj;ent horizontal jjress, pressing a number of cheeses at once,
with one screw, will come into general use when the patentee has learned to
obviate the difficulty of making an indentation or crease in each cheese, Avhich
harms their appearance, and supplies an excellent place for the generation of
skippers in fly time. The followers must fit the hoops very nearly, or if not,
the use of the rubber ring is necessitated. The use of this will hinder the
curd from passing up between the hoop and the follower. In very hot
weather, however, the acid in the whey soon decomposes the rubber and
necessitates new purchases. No press cloths are needed. The rings and
staples in the followers you buy are worthless, and should be replaced by
your blacksmith, before attempting to use them. Turning covers are not
wanted, even if the patentee will pay you for using them. Fairbanks' scales
are the most reliable and give the best satisfaction. In weighing cheese for
market, use a suitable sized counter-scale, which you can slip along readily on
the counter, as you weigh each cheese, before being boxed. Give good
up-weight in this manner, and there need be no trouble of having short
weights returned upon you. Fine cap cloths give the smoothest rind. A
convenient door will 'be made in each end of the second story, and in the end
of the curing-room below, through which the cheeses may pass to the wagons
on shipping. The boxes may very readily be slid from the second story to
the wagons on properly constructed skids."
CHEESE MANUFACTUILE.
THE ENGLISH STANDARD AS TO THE TLAVOE OF CHEESE.
Milk varies in character from various causes, but chiefly in the butter and
milk-sugar, the caseine showing but slight variations. Now the great art
sought by the cheese dairymen is in extracting two of the above constituents
of the milk — caseine and butter — and combining them with the water in
such proportions as to make a palatable article to suit a certain arbitrary
taste. I say arbitrary, because taste is educated, and different nations have
different standards as to what is palatable.
When I was in Switzerland I saw gentlemen, apparently of the highest
respectability, eating cheese of a most intensely disagreeable odor. They
ate this cheese with a relish, and pronounced it excellent, while, to my taste,
it had all the peculiarities of badly tainted food, the very odor of which was
nauseating. Some of the Germans also like a strong and rancid cheese.
The English taste, both for butter and cheese, has changed materially
during the last half century. What is noAV required in cheese is a mild,
clean flavor, with a certain mellowness of texture, readily dissolving under
the tongue, and leaving a nutty, new milk taste in the mouth. The English
demand a cheese of solid texture — that is, free from porosity — because a
porous cheese usually indicates an imperfect separation of the whey, or undue
fermentation. Such cheese often has a sweetish taste, which is owing to the
excess of the sugar of milk in the whey, and they invariably turn with a bad
flavor. The market value of cheese does not depend entirely on the amount
of butter which it contains. In an address before the American Dairymen's
Association a few years ago, I broached and discussed this point. It was
new doctrine, which the dairy public, and especially dealers, were not then
prepared to admit.
The experiments at factories, since that time, have proved the assump-
tion, and shown that cheese made from milk partially skimmed was not even
suspected by the dealer at home, and was pronounced first quality in the'
English market. The fact has also been established by Dr. Voelcker, in
the analyses of different samples of cheese ; the common or ordinary Amer-
ican, he finds richer in butter than the best English Cheddar, which is the
highest grade of cheese known to English taste. It may not be out of place,
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 427
in this connection, to give Dr. Yoelcker's language. He says :— " One of
the chief tests of the skill of the dairymaid is the j^roduction of a rich tasting
and looking, fine flavored and mellow cheese, from milk not particularly rich
in cream. That this can be done, is abundantly proved by the practice of
good makers. One of the finest Cheddars I ever examined was made by Mr.
Joseph HARDme of Marksbury, Somersetshire, and analyzed by me when
six months old. Like all good cheese, it of course contained a large amount
of butter, though, as I found by experiment, not nearly so large an amount
as its appearance, rich taste, and fine, mature condition seemed to imply.
Though only six months old, it had a much more mature appearance than a
Cheddar cheese which was at least eleven months old when analyzed, and,
thanks to Mr. Harding's skill and experience, had a far much fatter and
more mellow appearance and richer taste, than a specimen which actually
contained two and a-half per cent, more butter." " In the opinion of good
judges," he goes on to remark " this Cheddar cheese, notwithstanding the
larger amount of butter and smaller amount of water it contained, was worth
a penny a pound less than the specimen made by Mr. Harding."
MELLOW APPEARANCE.
" The peculiar mellow appearance of good cheese, though due to some
extent to the butter it contains, depends, in a higher degree, upon a gradual
transformation, which caseine or curd undergoes in ripening. Now, if this
ripening process is badly conducted, or the original character of the curd is
such that it adapts itself but slowly to the transformation, the cheese, Avhen
sold, will be comparatively tough, and appear less rich in butter than it really
is, while in a well made and properly kept cheese, this series of changes will
be rapidly and thoroughly efiected."
PROPER RIPENING.
" Proper ripening, then, imparts to cheese a rich appearance, and unites
with the butter in giving it that most desirable property of melting in the
mouth. On examining some cheeses deficient in this melting property, and
accordingly pronounced by practical judges defective in butter, I neverthe-
less found in them a very high percentage of that substance, clear proof that
the mellow and rich taste is not owing entirely, or indeed is chiefly due, to
the fatty matter which it contains."
I do not introduce this topic for the purpose of advising manufacturers to
skim the milk for cheese-making, but rather as a suggestion that no efibrt
should be spared in acquiring that skill in manufacturing which is able to
bring about desirable results, and to show that, even with the best material,
a cheese unskillfully made may be tough, poor and unpalatable.
THE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE IN CHEESE.
Now, it may not be uninteresting to know what are the component parts
of what is considered the highest grade of cheese in the English market, such
428 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ^|
as we are attempting to furnish. It at least gives us some general idea of
the proportion of water, caseine and butter which has effected the highest
results.
The analysis of Mr. Hakding's cheese gives the following in the one
hundred parts :
Water 33.92
Butter 33.15
Caseine 28.12
Milk sugar, luetic acid and extractive matter 00 96
Mineral matter 3.85
Total 100.00
The 28.12 parts of caseine contain 21.50 parts of nitrogen, and of the 3.85
parts mineral matter, 1.15 was common salt. It will be seen, then, that
good cheese, properly cured, has about thirty-four jDer cent, of Avater, and less
than one per cent, of milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c.
From the analyses which I have seen of different samples of the best
English and American cheese, when ripe, it appears that the proportion of
water should not be above thirty-four per cent. Any considerable increase
above this almost invariably indicates bad flavor. There is no doubt, a due
proportion of the water in cheese imparts to it a smooth and apparently rich
texture, and it is to this point manufacturers should direct their attention.
When too much water is taken out of the curd, we have a dry, stiff cheese,
the transformation of the caseine or curd being imperfect, and the cheese
appears less rich than it really is. Any system of cheese-making, then, by
which we may be able to judge the most accurately as to the amount of
water to be retained in the curds, will be the most successful, other thino-s
being equal.
SALTY TASTE.
In regard to the saline taste sometimes complained of in old cheese,
otherwise rich and good. Dr. Voelckek attributes it to ammoniacal salts,
developed during the ripening process. He says :— " During the ripening of
the cheese, a portion of the caseine or. curd suffers decomposition, and is
partially changed into ammonia ; the latter, however, does not escape, but
combines with several fatty acids, formed in the course of time from the
butter. Peculiar ammoniacal salts are thus produced, and these, like most
other salts of ammonia, have a pungent, saline taste. The longer cheese is
kept within reasonable limits, the riper it gets, and as it ripens, the propor-
tion of ammoniacal salts, with this pungent, saline taste, increases. It can
be readily shown that old cheese contains a good deal of ammonia, in the
shape of ammoniacal salts. All that is necessary is to pound a piece with
quick lime, when, on the addition of a little water, a strong smell of spirits
of hartshorn will be developed. In well kept, sound old cheese, the ammonia
is not free, but exists in the form of salts, whose base is ammonia, in combi-
nation with butyric, caprinic, caprylic and other acids, generated under
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 429
favorable circumstances by the fats of which butter consists. Ripe cheese,
even if very old, but sound, instead of containing free ammonia, always
exhibits a decidedly acid reaction, Avhen tested with blue litmus paper.
Rotten cheese, on the other hand, is generally alkaline in its reaction, and
contains free ammonia."
KEEPING QUALITIES.
I have alluded to some of the characteristics demanded in them, to suit
the English taste. There is another requisite, which trade and our own
interest imperatively demand : it is the production of cheese that is slow of
decay — that will sustain its good qualities a long time ; one that can be kept,
either at home upon the factory shelves, or in the hands of purchasers, with-
out fear of deterioration or loss. English shippers and dealers have always
complained of the early decay of American cheese, and the fear of loss from
this source has had great inHuence upon the market. When considerable
stocks have been accumulated, the dealer has been over-anxious to get rid
of them, and has pushed them, at low pyces, upon the market, on the
assumption that the loss from deterioration, by holding, would more than
cover any prospective advance in price. Factories, too, have often pushed
forward their goods on this account. It is true there has been great imj)rove-
ment, during the last few years, in the keeping qualities of our cheese, but
there is room for moi-e improvement, and no factory should make a pound
of cheese that cannot be kept, without deterioration, at least several months.
It would seem to be evident that the exceedingly fine aroma which obtains
in the best samples of Stilton, Cheddar and Cheshire cheese, is secured, at
least in part, by manufacturing perfectly pure milk, in good condition, at low
temperature.
THE CHIEF CHAKACTERISTICS OF STILTON
are a peculiar delicacy of flavor, a delicious mellowness, and a great aptness
to acquii'e a species of artificial decay, without which, to the somewhat
vitiated taste of the lovers of Stilton cheese, as now eaten, it is not consid-
ered of prime account. To be in good order, according to the present
standard, it must be decayed, blue and moist. Considerable quantities of
Stilton, however, are sold in London free from mold, and good samples have
a peculiarly delicate flavor and delicious mellowness, preserving these quali-
ties for one or two yeai's. Now the Stilton is set at a low temperature —
about 78° — and after coagulation is perfected it is cut in blocks, and a short
time afterwards it is lifted out carefully into a willow basket to drain, and
then put into a small hoop and turned frequently, receiving no pressure
except from its own weight.
I do riot pi'opose to go into details of Stilton manufacture in this place
since it is not adapted to our factoiy system : but I introduce the main
feature to show in part the philosophy of cheese-making. Here, in this
most delicious of all cheeses, in which there is an extra amount of cream, a
430 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
very low temperature is employed, with scarcely any manipulation. The
manipulations are not hastened, but the cheese is left, so to speak, to do its
own work. The Stilton cheeses are thick but small, only weighing from six
to eight pounds. Of course we could not make our large cheese in this way,
as the whey would not readily separate and pass off. But it is a remarkable
fact that these cheeses are capable of retaining a delicate flavor for a longp
time. In all the finest English cheeses coming under my observation theB
temperature for setting the milk ranged at about 78° to 82 '^, never above
84°. It is undoubtedly a fact that if coagulation takes j^lace when the milk,
is too warm it becomes too adhesive, and the oily parts of the milk, being]
kept in solution, escape with the whey.
THE AMERICAN AND CHEDDAR PROCESSES COMPARED.
The American process of manufacturing cheese as now commonly prac-
ticed, differs but little from the improved Cheddar process of England. The
night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together are taken to make the
cheese. One great feature in the Cheddar process is to understand pretty
accurately the condition of the milk in regard to its approximate acidity at
the time of commencing the operation of manufacturing. They prefer there-
fore to have the milk in a condition to use sour whey at the time of adding
the rennet. "When a large number of persons are delivering milk as at our
factories, it is impossible to judge so well how far the milk has progressed
toward sensible acidity, as in a single dairy where the milk is under the eye
of the manufacturer from first to last.
In the Cheddar practice the milk is set at a temperature of about 79° to
82°, receiving sour whey with the rennet according to the condition of the
milk. A quantity of rennet is added sufiicient to coagulate the mass in from
forty to sixty minutes. When firm enough to break, the curd is cut across
in checks. After it has stood from fifteen to twenty minutes for the whey to
form, and the curd to acquire a firm consistency, the Cheddar dairymen com-
mence breaking with a shovel breaker, which is similar in construction to our
factory agitator. The curd is handled very carefully until the whole is
minutely broken, and they insist that this part of the process shall be done
without any additional heat. After breaking, heat is applied, and the tem-
perature gradually raised to 98* or 100*, according to circumstances of
weather, etc., the mass meanwhile being carefully stirred. It is then left at
rest and only occasionally stirred, until a scarcely perceptible change toward
acidity is indicated in the whey ; the whey is then immediately drawn and
the curd heaped up in the vat to drain and develop the required acidity
gradually. It remains in this condition for half an hour or more, the whey
meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out and' placed in
the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand into thin flakes and spread
out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell, and is slightly
sour to the taste.
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 431
It is left here to cool for fifteen minutes, when it is turned over and left
for the same length of time, or until it has the j^eculiar mellow or liakey feel
desired. It is then gathered up and put to press for ten minutes, when it is
taken out, ground in the curd-mill and salted at the rate of two pounds of
salt to one hundred and twelve pounds of curd. It then goes to press and is
kept under pressure two or three days. The curd when it goes to press
has a temperature of 60 ° to 65 ° , and when in the sink it is preferred not to go
below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during the
various parts of the process, during cool weather by throwing over it a thick
cloth. Much of our factory cheese has been injured by being put to press at
too high a temperature. The thermometer should always be used to determine
the condition of the curd when put to press ; and there is no doubt but that
the Cheddar dairymen have hit upon the proper temperature.
Mr. Harding, the great exponent of this system in England, told me he'
had made a great many experiments in this direction, and that a higher tem-
perature than 75° when put to press was almost always attended with loss of
flavor, undue fermentation, and, as a consequence, greater or less porosity.
He claimed that the curd could not be properly broken at 90 ® or above, and
that a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd was effected
by breaking at 75° to 80°.
What we are to learn by the Cheddar process, is not so much following
out blindly all details, but seizing upon a few leading principles of the process
and adapting them to our use. These princijDles may be briefly summed up
as follows: 1st. Studying the condition of the milk. 2d. Setting at a tem-
perature from 78° to 82°. 3d. Drawing the wey early. 4th. Exposing
the curd longer to the atmosphere and allowing it to perfect its acidity after
the whey is drawn. 5th. Putting in press before salting at a temperature of
60° to 70°. 6th. Grinding in a cui'd-mill and then salting. These last two
items are important, because you cannot regulate the salt accurately by guess,
and can only get the right proportion by uniformity in the condition of the
curd. The application of salt, too, at a higher temperature than 75° is
claimed to be prejudicial.
I am firmly of the opinion, not only from my observations abroad, but
from my own experiments, that the exposure of the curd in small particles
to the air is beneficial, and helps to secure a good flavor and mellowness of
texture. When curds are exposed to the atmosphere the external parts
become rapidly oxydized, which is seen by their heightened color.
FLOATING CURDS.
One of the troubles which cheese-makers have to contend with is a float-
ing curd. It means tainted milk, putrefaction, fermentation, a most disagree-
able customer, and one which no manufacturer cares to meet. There are
various ways of treating floating curds, but the main points to be observed
are, drawing the whey early, developing an acid, exposure of the curd to the
432 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
atmosphere a long time, and grinding in a curd-mill. One experienced
cheese-maker writes me as follows :
" One morning in July last I noticed a peculiar odor in the milk which;
was delivered at the factory. I pi'onounced it tainted. The weather was'
warm and the milk from some of the dairies was quite near enough sour,
beino- so far advanced as to require rather rapid handling, faster than would
be profitable with milk in the proper condition. I exposed it to the air by
stirring it and dipping it, until ready to add the coloring and rennet, which
was done at a heat of 82°.
"The curd did not seem to act right while cooking; it would not come
down so as to present to the maker that feeling and appearance which indicate
a good cheese. The curd came to the surface of the whey while it was
cooking. The odor was so disagreeable that one of our hands could not bear
to work over it. One individual who was present insisted that the curd was
sour and the whey sweet, I could not see it so. I held it in the whey as
long as I thought advisable, which I assure you was not any longer than was
necessary to cook it fairly ; for I did not think tlie whey was improving it any.
The heat must have been nearly to 100°, when I ran it into the curd sink, for
I had been keeping up the heat hoping to cook it sufficiently. We stirred it
a long while in the sink, opening the windows and doors of the work-room,
in order to give it all the air possible. I salted it in the j^roportion of three
pounds of salt to one thousand pounds of milk, and put it to press. After press-
ing for perhaps an hour, turned and bandaged them, then pressed again, until
the next morning, Avhen they were placed upon the shelves in the drying-room.
" I saw by the next da^ that they were inclined to give me trouble. They
commenced rising en masse, like a loaf of bread. They did not leak whey,
but there seemed to be a sort of internal working, and Avhen pressed upon
with the hand would emit a hissing sort of noise. I determined to experi-
ment. I cut one into slices and ground it up in the curd-mill. The odor that
had been present in the vat had not all left. I warmed a pailful of whey of
the day before to 100° and poured it upon the curd. I kept the whey upon
the curd but a short time, just long enough to warm it, say five minutes. I
then added as much salt as I thought the whey had taken out, then pressed,
turned and bandaged as before. When placed upon the shelf the next day it
felt firm and had every appearance of lying quiet. I treated the other three
in the same manner and with a similar result. We kept those cheeses until
about forty days' old. They never raised in the least again. I called the
attention of several buyers and professed judges of cheese to them, and they,
without an exception, pronounced them ' all right.' They were firm, never
showing a pore when tried ; still, they were not over hard. The odor had so
much left them that our buyers were imable to detect it. Perhaps upon
other occasions the same process may not prove as satisfactory as upon this.
Be that as it may, I feel confident that I saved four cheeses, which promised
to be a total loss."
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 433
He adds, " That when the cheeses were cut open for grinding, they were
very porous, presenting the appearance of a loaf of bread, which if possible,
had been over-risen."
MR. irons' process.
Mr. Irons, a young Englishman, whom Mr. Harding of England sent to
me in the spring of 1868, and who has been managing some factories at the
West since that time, says he has tried various modes of treating floating
curds, and finds by the following process that he is able to make from such
curds a cheese of good texture and taste.
When the appearance of the whey shows numerous air bubbles floating
in, or forming by the slightest agitation of the finger, and also a kind of
greasy feeling of the curd, all of which ai-e indications of an unusual fermen-
tation, proceed with the process as at other times, only working a little
slower. The temperature should not be raised above 100°. If you are in
the habit of making coarse curds, then on this occasion they should be worked
a little finer with the agitator. When the mass has been raised to the
desired temperature the stirring should be continued for about half an hour.
Then leave it to rest for a short time, or with only an occasional stirring.
When you see the curds beginning to float upon the whey let them all come
up, and then immediately draw the whey. The whey having been removed
pack the curd in large heajis at the bottom of the vat, with a space down the
middle for the whey to drain off, and which should be removed as fast as it
gathers. When the curd has lain in this shaiDC for about fifteen minutes, or
until strong enough to bear turning, the heaps should be turned bottom side
up, and, if possible, without breaking the curd.
Now, let it lie, till the acid is properly developed, which will be indicated
by the odor when opening one of the heaps in the center, and it will have a
kind of flaky appearance, or as some have it, a kind of grain. Then break
the heaps into tliree or four pieces, and spread over the bottom of the vat to
cool gradually. When the pieces have laid thus for about fifteen or twenty
minutes take them out of the vat, put them in the sink and break them into
small pieces, and stir so as to cool. When the temperature has been reduced
to about 70° to 75°, grind in a curd-mill and salt at the rate of two and
a-half pounds salt to one thousand (1,000) pounds of milk. It would be
better to put the mass to press for about ten minutes before grinding, but
when there is a large mass of curd, and time is wanting, the course above
may be adopted.
Mr. Ikons says he has under this treatment of floating curds, made them
into good cheese, so good, indeed, that experienced cheese-dealers have not
objected to their flavor, or even suspected that there had been any trouble
with the curds more than ordinarily. The cheese, he adds, is of very solid
texture, and no difficulty is had in curing, except the liability to check a little
if care is not taken.
Mr. Moon, manager of the North Fairfield Factory, gives the following
28
434 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
as his method of treating tainted milk and floating curds : — First, thorough
Btirrino- and cooling of the milk at night. In the moi-ning do not begin to
heat the milk until ready to heat rapidly, and then heat as quickly as possible,
stirring the milk the while. Add an extra amount of rennet that the coagu-
lation may be quite firm, cut and manipulate with unusual caution ; keep the
whey drawn off as close as possible ; heat gradually but continually until the
temperature of about 98° is attained, then, when sufficiently cooked, dip to
the sink and wait for the developemcnt of the lactic acid, in more than the
usual quantity ; salt and allow to stand exposed to the air from one to three
hours, according as the milk was bad or very bad.
" Frequently," he says, " the acid will be developed enough when dipped
to the sink ; in that case salt as soon as drained ; stir the curd before and
after salting, in order that it may not pack in the sink. Having been exposed
to the air for the proper length of time, jDut to j^ress ; in the morning remove
the hoop, and perforate the cheese in several places with a small wdre, in order
to allow any gas to escape that may have been generated in the cheese during
the night. Put to press again, and if possible, allow to press twenty-four
hours longer, remove to the dry-house and treat like other cheese."
Mr. Alexandee McAdam, of the Smith Creek Factory, N. Y., who has
been very successful as a manufacturer of "fancy cheese," and whose cheese
is well-known in the markets on account of its superior quality, writes me in
a recent letter as follows :
CAUSE OP FLOATING CURDS.
"The immediate cause of floating curds is the presence in each particle or
cube of an extraordinary number of the spores of a species of fungus, which
generate a gas in the middle of each cube of curd at the time when the curd
is in the whey at a temperature of from 80° to 96°, Avhen each cube of curd
is expanded by this gas so much as to become lighter than its bulk of whey
— there occurs a floating curd.
" The reason why those spores are in so great abundance at times as to
cause floating curds are two, viz. : First, diseased or fevered state of the cow
before the milk is drawn from her. Second, improper handling of the milk
after being drawn from the cow. In regard to the first reason, there are a
great many cows slightly diseased or fevered, a few of the causes of which, are
cows drinking stagnant, putrid or filthy water ; the eating of vegetation
growing on ground saturated with such water ; cows inhaling the odor
arising from rapidly decomposing matter ; cows in heat, or having been
driven rapidly from the pasture ; or any state of the cow which causes the milk
to be at a higher temperature than blood heat (98°) when drawn from her,
which in a great many instances is the case, and it has been known to be as
high as 105° when milked. Such milk, when it has been coagulated and
heated, is almost certain to produce floating curds.
" In the second place, when the milk has been improperly handled after
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 435
being drawn from the cow. This is the case when any filth, cow manure,
or other impurity drops into the milk during milking, or in its transit
from the farm to the cheese factory, and which can never afterwards be
wholly removed from it bypassing it even through the finest strainer; or
when the milk has come into contact with any utensils or strainers which
have not been thoroughly cleansed ; or when the milk has not been thoroughly
ventilated before being shut up in almost air-tight vessels. These are some
of the most frequent causes of floating curds.
PREVENTION OF FLOATING CUEDS.
" To px-event floating curds, the milk intended to be manufactured into
cheese ought to be milked from cows that have access at all times to pure
running water, and have no access at all to stagnant, filthy water, as cows
will often prefer such filthy water to clean water (for reasons unknown).
Every one of the cows of a dairy ought to be in perfect health, as one dis-
eased cow's milk Avill taint the milk from the whole dairy. Dairy cows ought
not to have access to weeds of any description, and ought to have plenty of
shade trees in their pasture in warm weather, and when driven to and from
their pastures they ought not to be urged faster than a slow walk, and before
being milked they ought to be allowed to stand one hour in cool, airy stables
at a distance from manure heaps or any decomposing matter.
" After standing an hour the cows ought to be milked with the most scru-
pulous cleanliness, and the milk strained. It must tlien be immediately venti-
lated by exposure to the atmosphere to allow the animal odor to escape, and
cooled. But cooling without ventilation is almost useless, or as some assert,
worse than useless. The milk being cooled and ventilated, it can then be
moved to the factory, and will arrive there in good condition. All the uten-
sils with which the milk comes in contact ought to be thoroughly cleaned
with warm water, soap and a brush, and afterwards scalded with boiling
water or steam. All these particulars being attended to there will be no
danger of floating curds.
THE EEMEDY FOR FLOATING CURDS.
"When the milk which has to be manufactured into cheese emits the
offensive odors which usually come from tainted milk, it is reasonably certain
the curd after coagulation will either float or require the same treatment as
if it did float. In such a case enough of rennet must be added so as to cause
coagulation in thirty minutes or less. Then, after the cm-d is sufficiently cut,
the mass of curd and whey must be heated quickly to a temperature of 96°,
and so allowed to remain until acid is slightly perceptible to the smell or
taste, the whey must then be separated from the curd, and the curd allowed
to take on considerable more acid. The exact pitch to which the acid should
be raised at this time can only be learned by experience ; when this has been
attained the curd should be then ground and salted according to the Cheddar
process, which is becoming too common to need explanation. After the curd
436 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
is salted it should be thoroughly ventilated by repeated stirring and turning
over before being j^ut to press. The amount of salt to be used should be
the same as when the curd is perfect. The reason that more rennet is required
for floating curd is because such curd has to be made sooner than usual, and
would take longer to cure if only the same amount of rennet was used. And
the reason it is heated quickly is to induce the acid to develop sooner.
" A strictly fine-flavored or good-keeping cheese can not be made from
floatino- curds, but still when properly handled a very fair, merchantable
article can be obtained, the only fault being insipidity and lack of the fine
nutty aroma so highly prized by the dealers in and consumers of all kinds of
high-priced cheese. The reason that this aroma is lost in floating curds is
because so much acid has to be introduced into the curd to kill the taint or
bad smell. Kow, this acid also destroys the finest of the aroma, which is the
most volatile and easily destroyed in either butter or cheese."
TKEATMENT OF rLOATING CURDS.
In the treatment of floating curds, a mill for grinding the curds renders
very important aid. By grinding, the particles of curd are more minutely
broken than it is easy to do by hand, and the breaking liberates not only the
gases, but, by a free exposure of the particles to the air, the ofiensive odor
passes off, and fermentation is checked. In some cases, even after the
cheeses have been removed from the press to the curing room, and then
begun to huff and behave badly, by cutting them up and passing through a
curd mill, warming with whey at a temperature of 98°, and then draining,
salting and pressing, no further trouble has been given, the cheese turning
out of fair quality. As more or less trouble is had every year, from tainted
milk and floating curds, suggestions as to their management will be of
important aid to the cheese manufacturer.
MANUFACTURING FROM SMALL QUANTITIES OF MILK.
Where only one vat is used, I should always prefer the portable vat, with
heater attached. It is quite as convenient, and much less expensive, not
only in the original outlay, but in the cost of running, than the steam boiler
and vat separated, like those in use in many of the New York factories. In
a small factory, where there is no probability of running more than two vats,
and where part of the time only one is used, I should still prefer the " porta-
ble " or " self-heater," as less expensive, while, as to the management of
heat, some of these self-heating vats are as perfect as anything yet brought
out. So far as the manufacture of cheese is concerned there is nothing better
than to heat with hot water, if the arrangements are such as to be convenient,
and the heat under control. The advantages of a steam boiler are, that the
boiler is in a separate room by itself, and all litter, dirt, smoke, &c., are con-
fined to that apartment, and do not get " mixed up " in the milk room, while
the heat is applied simply by turning a faucet in the conducting pipe. Then,
again, the heat can be turned off in a moment. On these accounts many old
Practical Dairy Husbandry, 437
factorymen prefer steam boilers to the " self-heaters." The Ralph, the
Millar and the Burkell heaters are good, so far as their arrangements for
heating and manufacturing are concerned. They take but very little fuel.
SOUR WHEY.
The use of sour whey in cheese-making must be regulated according to
the condition of the milk. If the milk has made progress toward acidity, so
that it Avill be properly developed at the close of the j^rocess of cheese-
making, the sour whey is not needed. But in cool weather, when the milk
has been brought down to a low temperature, an acid condition of the curds
is not easily developed, at least during the ordinary time for conducting the
process of cheese-making. Sour Avhey, under such circumstances, is often
used with great advantage. In the spring of the year, when the cows are
" between hay and grass," it is sometimes quite difficult for the cheese-maker
to turn off a nice quality of cheese. The curds are often run up too sweet,
and the consequence is a soft, spongy product, containing a superabundance
of whey which has not been properly separated, and could not be expelled
while the cheese was in press. This could have been remedied by a proper
application of sour ivhey.
At cheese factories there is not usually that necessity for using sour whey
as at farm dairies, because the milk, from cartage and other causes, has gen-
erally progressed further toward acidity, when cheese-making commences,
than it would had the milk been kept and made up at the farm dairy. But,
though the necessity for using sour whey may not be so great at the factory
as at the farm, there are times when it can be employed in factory manufac-
ture to very great advantage.
At the farm dairy, M^hen the night's milk has been cooled down to 45°,
we should say that the sour whey could be used ; for, if all utensils have been
kept scrupulously clean, the milk will be very sweet, and will not readily
develop the desired change in proper time, or during the time usually
employed in the process of manufacture into cheese, unless so treated. Sour
whey cannot be used at random, but in the hands of skillful cheese-makers it
produces the very best results.
cooling the morning's mess or milk at farm dairies.
As to the question of removing the animal heat from the morning's milk
for farm dairies, when the night's milk has been cooled, as described above,
it is not usually considered important to do so. If the morning's milk is to
be carted to the factory, there is no question but it should be thoroughly
cooled before putting in the cans, or as soon as may be after being drawn
from the cow. And I have no doubt, for private dairies, the milk for cheese-
making, both morning and evening mess, is improved by being divested of
animal heat. In the private dairy, however, it must be observed, the
quantity of milk to be handled is comparatively small. The morning's milk
438 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
is added by degrees, or only as fast as drawn from the cow, and is at least
partly cooled by coming in contact with the night's milk. And, again, the
vat being open so as to allow free exposure to the air, while the process of
cheese-making is commenced at once, all would seem to indicate that a
special cooling of the morning's milk might, perhaps, be dispensed with. If,
however, convenient apparatus be had for cooling the morning's milk as
soon as drawn from the cow, so that it could be readily done, without loss
of time or causing much trouble, I should do so, since I am of the opinion a
more delicately flavored cheese would result from cooling and aerating both
the night's and morning's mess of milk. But without apparatus or conven-
iences, it would not, perhaps, be advisable to spend much time and trouble
in attempting to cool the morning's milk for farm dairies.
COLOPaJVG CHEESE.
An attempt has been made, from time to time, to induce factories to
abandon the use of coloring matter in cheese. The fact that annatto (the
only coloring matter that should ever be used for this purpose) adds nothing
to the flavor or nutrition of cheese, would seem to favor the discontinuance
of a practice which is troublesome, attended with expense, and sometimes
injurious on account of the adulterations of annatto with red lead and other
poisonous compounds. Pure annatto is a harmless vegetable substance, pre-
pared from the seeds of a tree {Bixa orelkma), and when used in the ordi-
nary way for coloring cheese is in no way injurious. Its employment for
this purpose comes down to us from the mother country. I do not know
when or by whom the practice was first inaugurated, but it is of ancient
date, and its object nmst have been to deceive consumers, by giving them
the idea that the cheese was made from a very rich quality of milk. And
that impression now generally prevails among the uninitiated. So much has
the imagination to do in controlling human action, that I have seen poor,
skim-milk cheese highly colored, preferred and purchased instead of a rich,
nice-flavored, pale cheese, -both standing on the counter, and offered at the
same price. Color, therefore, has an important influence with some people,
and It is useless for the dairyman to " run his head" against this prejudice,
unless he chooses to have his pockets depleted by lower sales.
It is true, in some of the English markets, like Manchester, for instance,
pale cheese is m favor, and finds a better price than the colored article ; but
the London trade insists upon color, and as it is willing to pay for it, Amer-
ican dairymen must for the present submit. Some people think that, by
abandomng the use of annatto, we can correct the English prejudice for
colored cheese, and thereby benefit all parties. It would be an absurd and
tutiJe effort on our part, and would simply give the English dairymen addi-
tional advantage m their own markets ; for you cannot force people to pur-
chase what they do not want, however excellent your argument may be
against their prejudices.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 439
method of pbepaeixg basket annatto for use.
Some of the methods employed by old and experienced dairymen for
preparing annatto for coloring cheese are as follows :
First Recipe. — Dissolve six pounds concentrated potash and one pound
saltpeter in five gallons of warm water ; then add thirty gallons cold water,
put in as much choice annatto as the liquid will dissolve, heat gently to a
boil ; put into a cask, and store in a cool place.
Second Recipe. — Dissolve four pounds potash in one-half barrel of water ;
put in as much pure annatto as the liquid will cut. The mixture need not
be boiled.
Third Recipe. — Take four pounds of best annatto, two pounds concen-
trated potash, five ounces saltpeter, one and a-half pounds sal-soda, and five
gallons boiling water. Put the ingredients into a tub, and pour on the
boiling water.
The annatto should be inclosed in a cloth, and, as it dissolves, squeeze it
through the cloth into the liquid. About two ounces of this mixture is
sufiicient for one hundred pounds of curd in summer.
EECIPE FOE PEEPARING ANIfATTO USED AT BROCKETt's BRIDGE FACTORY.
To eight pounds crude annatto, add three pounds Babbitt's concentrated
potash ; place in a cask, pour on boiling water, and stir frequently until all
is dissolved. Water is then added to make it sufficiently diluted, so that a
pint of the liquid will color four thousand pounds of milk. In coloring
cheese, the best way is to fix upon the desired shade by trial (marking the
quantity of liquid used), and after that is known the same proportion will
give color that is uniform.
annattoine.
Preparations of liquid annatto have been made and sold from time to time,
some of which, like the Nichols & English preparation, have acquired a
hio-h reputation. The foreign liquid annattoes, however, are expensive, and
their high cost has operated very much against their use among the factories.
Recently a new preparation of annatto has been brought out by G. De Cor-
dova, under the name of annattoine, or dry extract of annatto. The coloring
material, which lies wholly on the surface of the seeds, is separated and pre-
pared by Cordova by an improvement on the La Blond and Vauquelin
theories. The latter asserts that boiling injures the color, and as this has
been clearly proven, Cordova reduces the precipitation to powder instead of
boiling to a paste. In the spring of 1870 I made tests with the annattoine
in coloring both butter and cheese, and found that it gave a clear and beauti-
ful shade, equal to any preparation that I had seen, but on dissolving or cutting
the annattoine in the usual manner I found the liquor on standing was inclined
to form a coagulum. Soon after this time Mr. D. H. Burrell of Little Falls
entered upon a series of experiments for the purpose of overcoming this diffi-
culty. In this he has been entirely successful, and we now have a perfect color-
440 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
ing material, free from any injurious adulterations, and a preparation which
has given satisfaction to both factories and shippers. Indeed, some of the latter
have expressed the opinion that cheese colored with this preparation retains
flavor better and for longer periods than cheese colored with the common
basket annatto. The annattoine is largely coming into use among the facto-
ries, and is superseding all other preparations. Prof. Caldwell, who has
made an analysis of the annattoine, certifies as to its purity or freedom from
deleterious adulterations, and we are therefore enabled to obtain a reliable
coloring material at moderate cost.
Mr. Buerell's recipe for cutting the annattoine is as follows : — Put two
pounds of annattoine in four gallons of clear, cold water, and let it stand in
this state one day, stirring thoroughly, meantime, so as to perfectly dissolve
the annattoine. Then put two pounds strongest potash, and one pound
sal-soda (carbonate of soda) in three gallons of cold water. When this is
perfectly dissolved and settled, pour off the clear liquor, and mix the two
preparations together. Let this compound stand two or three days, until the
annattoine is cut or dissolved perfectly by the potash, stirring occasionally
meantime. Use about a teacupful for a thousand pounds of milk. Do not
mix with the rennet, but put it in a little milk and then mix in the mass of
milk in the vats by stirring it in thoroughly, just before the rennet is used.
If in a day or two after the preparation is made the annattoine does not seem
to be perfectly cut, so that specks can be seen, it is certain that the potash
was not strong enough. Adding more of a stronger solution of the potash
will remedy the trouble. When annattoine is used for coloring butter a
portion of the prepared liquor is added to the cream at the commencement
of churning. It gives a very rich color, and may be used in winter-made
butter, often with advantage.
CUTTING THE CUEDS.
The steel curd-knife now in general use was invented some dozen years
ago or thereabouts, by a Herkimer county dairyman. The old-fashioned curd-
knife was of wood, a single blade, and a rude aifair. The curds were cut
into large blocks, and all the subsequent breaking was done with the hands.
This necessitated a good deal of labor, and unless the curds were very care-
fully handled, there was a considerable loss of cheese. The first improvement
in this class of implements originated also in Herkimer, and consisted of a
triangular iron frame, strung with brass wire. It was made of diflferent
sizes to correspond with the cheese-tub, half its diameter in length, so that
going round with the breaker in the operation, no section of the curds would
be broken twice. This was a great improvement over the wooden knife and
hand breaking ; but after a while it was found objectionable, as the tender
curds were torn and mashed by the frame of the breaker, and by the points
where the wires crossed each other in forming the checks.
The next improvement was a breaker of tin, formed into checks, so as to
Practical Dairy Husbandry. . 441
cut the curd into long square strips as the instrument was pushed down to
the bottom of the vat. I made some experiments with the tin and wire
breakers at an early day, and found there was a saving in product by using
the tin. When the gang of steel knives was invented for cutting the curds
into perpendicular columns, further experiments were made, and a decided
advantage in product was found to result from the use of sharp, cuttino-
blades over the tin cutter, which did not divide the curd as smoothly as the
polished steel blades. These experiments, extended over a considerable
period and conducted with care, convinced me that the first breakino- of the
tender curds should be done with sharp cutting blades ; since not one cheese-
maker in a hundred will use sufficient care in breaking Avith the hands to
avoid the loss that can be saved by the use of the steel knives, to say nothing
of the labor and time gained by the knives over hand breaking. If it be
admitted that these shai'p, polished steel blades are better for breakino- the
curds in their tender state than the hands, or indeed than any device that
tears the mass into particles, that bruises them or presses out the oily portion,
then the whole of the breaking should be done with knives.
The use of horizontal knives is only of recent introduction among the
factories of New York. The perpendicular blades referred to above left the
curds in cubical columns, which were to be in some way broken up, and it
was done either by the hands, by an agitator, or by other imperfect means.
Some of the best English cheese-makers use what is called the shovel-breaker
for working or breaking the curds after the first cutting. It is of heavy
wire, something in general form like a shovel, and attached to a long handle.
They claim that in using this the curd splits apart in grains naturally, and
hence the shovel breaker, skillfully used, is the best implement for the pur-
pose that has yet been invented. As, until quite recently, they knew nothing
of the operations of the American knives, and as their product from a given
quantity of milk is less than that turned ofi" by skillful American manufac-
turers, it is evident they are not competent, at present, to pass upon the
merits of this improved American implement.
In the best English methods of cheese-making, as well as in the best
American processes, it is deemed important that the breaking should be done
when the curds are young and before additional heat is applied. All cheese-
makers agree that any rough handling of curds at this early stage must be
attended with loss. But if we can have an implement or implements that
will pass through the curds perpendicularly and horizontally, separating the
mass into parts of the desired size, and doing the work without any undue
agitation or bruising of the mass, a great desideratum, it would seem, is
reached. The perpendicular and horizontal curd-knives when used in con-
nection with each other do this most effectually. The horizontal knives cut
the long, perpendicular blocks of curd into small pieces of uniform size,
leaving the mass completely broken up.
I experimented with the horizontal knives long before they were brought
442 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
out or used in tlie dairies of New York. The knives were made expressly
for my experiments by Mr. Otsten of Little Falls, who had proposed at the
time to take out a patent upon them. He did not do so, and the principle
suggested itself to others, and is now adopted at factories.
In a recent conversation with Mr. Davis, who owns and operates a fac-
tory in Herkimer, IST. Y., he stated that he found from experiments that a
considerable gain Avas effected in the quantity of cheese by the use of the
horizontal knives, and that by their use also the quality of his cheese was
greatly improved. Mr. Davis is a manufacturer of experience, and his cheese
has a high reputation for excellence, bringing a high price in the markets.
Others make similar statements.
From what has been said it will be seen that in factories of any consider-
able size, the horizontal knives, in connection with the others, save during the
season a large amount of labor, while the work is better performed than by
operating on the old plan, as every portion of the mass is divided in i^ieces
of uniform size. The object of cutting or breaking the curds is to favor the
expulsion of whey ; hence, when the mass is broken up into pieces all of the
same size, the progress and condition of the curds from time to time are more
uniform in all their parts ; and this is an important point Avhich many cheese-
makers overlook in their operations. The principle to be observed is to
treat every portion of the curd alike, so far as possible, in all its manipula-
tions, and then Ave get a product upon Avhich fermentation during the curing
process Avill go on evenly, and good flavor is more readily secured, than Avhen
the particles of the curd are unlike, or not in the same condition.
USE OF HEAT IST CHEESE MAKING.
The term " cooking the curd " in cheese making is a misnomer. It con-
A-eys to the mind a Avrong impression and leads many astray. To make
cheese properly, neither the milk nor the curds should be " cooked." The
more you approximate to the cooking process the more you injure the
cheese. Animal bodies are not cooked at a temperature of blood heat. As
a rule in cheese making, no part of the process requires a temperature above
blood heat. One hundred degrees is the maximum temperature that can be
employed Avith safety. This is tAvo degrees above blood heat, and is admis-
sible only Avhen heat is liable to pass off rapidly, and for the purpose of
holding the mass at 98°. Heat is constantly passing off from the whey and
curds, and the loss is more rapid Avhen the temperature of the surrounding
atmosphere is low. It is more rapid AA^hen a small quantity of milk is used than
Avhen a large quantity is collected together, hence we sometimes employ a
temperature one or tAvo degrees above blood heat in the process of solidifying
the curds, in order to meet this loss of heat. It is a well recognized fact in
cheese making that fine quality and delicate flavor cannot be secured when
high heat is used in manipulating the curds. The best cheese are made at
low temperatures, and when dairymen fancy the curd must be cooked to
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 443
preserve it, they have an erroneous idea of the true principles of clieese
making.
The raanuiacture of cheese is in part a chemical process. We have a
material composed of various constituents, and the art is to separate these
constituents, selecting those required to form cheese and expelling the others.
Milk as it comes from the cow is properly prepared for food. It needs no
further cooking to be assimilated, and what the cheese maker Avants is to
extract the caseine and butter, getting rid of the water and reducing the mass
to a solid. The butter is not improved by cooking, neither is the caseine, and
hence, as we find in practice, the best cheese is made when neither the milk
nor the curds have been subjected to so high a heat as would cook them.
After the curds are broken up we use heat for the purpose of expelling the
whey. A change is constantly going on. The heat assists in developing an
acid, which causes the curds to contract, expelling the whey. The process
of separating the whey should be slow, and the whey should flow away
gradually, otherwise there is a loss of oily particles. The butter is contained
in the shells of caseine and is not acted upon by rennet. If the contraction
of the caseine is rapid, the oily globules are forced out Avith the whey, instead
of being retained and amalgamated with the mass, and you have a tough,
leathery cheese. Milk which is exposed to the atmosphere and warmth
begins to put on an acid condition as soon as drawn from the cow. In cheese
making we want to carry this acid just far enough to expel the surplus whey,
retaining the butter and a certain amount of moisture. If Ave stop short of
the required point, too much whey Aviil be retained and cannot be pressed out.
When the cheese is put upon the shelf this pent up whey decomposes,
becomes acid, and jjarts from the caseine, and we have a leaky cheese. If
the cheese is kept in a Avarm place and the whey is soon expelled, the cheese,
though defective in flavor, may pass as second rate ; but if the whey cannot
find an exit, it soon becomes sour and putrid, and the cheese, in consequence,
is positively bad. On the other hand, Avhen the acid is carried too far, the
curds part with too much moisture and Ave have a hard, dry cheese. What
is understood, then, by the terra " cooking the curd," is the application of a
gentle heat for the i:)urpose of developing a certain degree of acidity, that
the whey may properly 2:>art from the solids, a sufficient amount being
retained to carry on the process of fermentation Avhen the cheese goes into
the curing-room. It is very difficult to carry this acid to the proper j^oint
while the whey is in the vat. It is preferable, therefore, to draw the Avhey
as soon as acidity becomes perceptible to the taste or smell, and allow a
further development in the curds after the Avhey is drawn.
A good many cheese makers who get the idea that curds must be cooked
like a piece of meat, often spoil their cheese by applying heat too rapidly and
running the mass up at too high a temperature. They do not seem to under-
stand the leading principle of this part of the process, which is a slow
development of acid in the curds. Instead of heating gradually and watching
b5s
444 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
for tliis development, they push the heat, thinking they can effect their object
in cooking ; the consequence is, an inferior product, destitute of that quality
and flavor that the market now demands.
VIEVrS OF AIR. FISH ON HEAT IJT CHEESE MAKING.
In discussing the question of heat in cheese making, Mr. A. L. Fish of
Herkimer, N. Y., well known as a distinguished practical cheese manufac-
turer, as well as one of the early Avriters on dairy farming, has recently
presented the following as his matured views on the subject of heat, and they
deserve attention. He says:— "In contemplating the agency of heat in
making and curing cheese, we are led to consider that cheese has a physical
constitution, like other bodies, subject to growth and decay, that require a list
of substances, in their formation, which is assimilated by special agencies and
brought to an equipoise ; in other words, brought into such a condition that
opposing forces balance each other equally. Such a condition we denominate
the constitution of animate and inanimate bodies. The condition or power
to hold an equipoise or equilibrium of opposing forces, determines the
liability to slow or more speedy decay and dissolution. I have hinted the
capacity of heat to prevent and destroy consolidation; also, its indispensable
agency in inducing relation and union of extraneous matter in forming solids.
Its most judicious appliance in cheese making, where it is required to serve
a double purpose, is the question to be discussed. First, what is a proper
temperature to apply to the fluid mass (milk), in bringing it to condition
most favorable for the aid and action of rennet in separating and dispelling
such a portion of fluid j^arts as desirable, and no more, and why ? My answer
is, not exceeding 98°, because that is the point nature has fixed to sustain
the most healthy and active condition in the animal organism. Hence, a
higher temperature weakens the action of the rennet in bringing the mass to
a unity. Any excess of heat applied to a part unfits it for a union with other
parts. Solids are formed by cohesive attraction, which draws particles of
matter of a sameness together. Any agency or condition that makes these
unlike, prevents a perfect union. In cheese, it is manifest in swelling after
being pressed, or by a rough, sticky, or crackly surface, and a lack of close
adhesiveness of the meat of the cheese, which indicate that the agencies used
in forming its constitution have not been equipoised in the process of manu-
facture. Such a condition involves the question, which of the agencies used
is in fault ?
INJUDICIOUS USE OF HEAT.
" Some will say weak rennet, premature acidity, putrefactive fermenta-
tion from some unknown cause, &c. ; but few seem to appreciate that an
injudicious use of heat may be a fruitful cause, while a proper use might be
a preventive. I trust all practical cheese makers will agree with us in the
assertion that curd having been exposed to 140° heat, and mixed with other
curd not exposed to over 100°, will not make a good cheese; if so, does it
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 445
not follow logically, that any portion of the milk or curd exposed to that
degree of high heat, will not unite harmoniously with other portions exposed
to much less heat ? If such a varied condition is admitted to he wrong, the
next question is, do we practice it, and if so, what is a remedy ? From my
observations in the usual mode of managing heat in milk and curd, and
curino--rooms, I am convinced that sufficient care is not taken to suppress the
action of heat when less is needed ; hence a large proportion of the imperfec-
tions of our factory cheese is traceable to an injudicious management of heat.
In explanation, I will address myself to the patrons of cheese factories first,
because with them lies the first practical remedy, as they have the ability to
suppress the action of heat upon the milk before it reaches the factorymen,
by stirring and cooling it immediately after it is drawn from the cows, which
should always be done to guard against the tendency of heat to induce acidity
and putrescence. If the habit of thus cooling the milk to a low temperature
was universal among dairymen, it would result in a profit that is now lost to
all interested. The advantages would be more pounds and better quality of
cheese from a given amount of milk, because the manufacturer would not be
compelled to use means to hasten the separation of fluid portions of milk
from the caseine too rapidly, which is always wasteful.
BEST MODE OF APPLYING HEAT.
" In considering the best mode of applying heat to the mass of milk or
curd, I shall not favor or discard any patent or fixture now used for that
purpose, but will lay down as a practical rule (and would invite the attention
of skilled mechanics to it) that an apparatus or fixture by which heat is
imparted or conveyed to the mass, the mildest and most uniformly to every
part, and having otherwise the most perfect control of heat, is to be preferred,
because a uniform low temperature conveyed to every part and particle of
the mass, is the principle relied on to preserve a perfect affinity or sameness
of condition. To insure the most perfect cheese, the less antagonism induced
in the process of manufacture the more perfect cheese will be attained. Con-
veying heat by any means into a thin sheet or volume of water contained
between the outer and inner vat I consider injudicious, because there is not
water enough to soften the heat before it comes in contact with the inner vat
containing the milk or curd. I am not able to understand how a large vat
of milk or curd can be heated by discharging steam or boiling water into a
thin sheet of water between vats Avithout some portions of it coming in
contact with a surface heated to a point that Avill melt the buttery globules
and otherwise imfit it to harmonize with other portions not so exposed. I
have frequently examined the heated surface of inner vats, and found it so
heated as to burn my flesh, and an oily substance floating on the whey, and
clots of curd resting on the overheated surface melted together, and I did
not Avonder that cheese made with such practice got out of flavor and
became unsalable.
'^^S Practical Dairy Husbandry.
GUARD AGAINST OVERHEATING.
" As a guard against thus overheating I would suggest a widening and
enlargement of the heating medium between the vats, so that the heat con-
veyed through it will be softened and equalized before coming in contact
with the inner vat. It should be held in view by the vat builder, that the I
wider the space between the points of discharging heat, and the vat containing
the milk or curd to be hot, the softer and mere uniform will be the effect of
heat, and the less liability to a deranged constitution in the cheese. When
heat and rennet in their joint action are supposed to have dispelled a desired
portion of the fluid of milk, it is essential to arrest uniformly their further
progress through the whole mass to preserve an affinity of the parts to be
pressed into cheese. This should not be done too suddenly before adding
salt, as a sudden chill of the curd would cause it to reject the effect of salt
to properly season the curd, which, while warm, has a tendency to expel
animal odors if thoroughly stirred in cooling. After being salted warm, and
packed, and covered to steep for ten minutes, then if well stirred, and cooled
to 80° before putting it in pr.'ss hoops, the action of the heat and rennet are
so checked as to give the new agent (salt) control of opposing forces in the
process of curing. The cooler the curing-room is kept, the less salt is required
to preserve cheese from taint, and the less salt used the earlier the maturity
of cheese. The proper construction of the curing-room is essential to a
proper control of heat in process of curing.
DANGER OF HIGH HEAT.
" The danger of high heat is not past till cheese is ripened for market A
perfectly made cheese is often spoiled by too much and uneven heat in curing.
A steady, even temperature should be kept, not exceeding 70°, with free
ventilation at bottom and top of the room, so arranged that the outer air
may be let in at pleasure at the bottom or near the floor below the cheese
and pass out through draft tubes at the top of the room through the center
which should be made to be closed when a draft is not needed to carry off
surplus heat or dampness in the room, or for changing the air.
HEAT IN CURING-ROOMS.
" Curing-rooms built tight with six inches space for air between inner and
outer ceiling with tubes six inches square passing through to the open air at
the outer end, made to close at pleasure at the inside to reject too much air
placed once in ten feet on all sides of the room near the floor, with draft tubes
twelve inches square once in ten feet through the center of the top of the
room, will afford a sufficient circulation of air at all times in the largest sized
rooms; the air chamber at the side and over the top of the room protects it
from sudden effects of external heat. The upper floor or ceiling should be
covered with sawdust or fine shavings, to prevent concentration of heat from
above. No more windows should be used than are needed to give sufficient
light, as they are seldom if ever needed for air. With such ventilation and
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 447
construction of the curing-room, as described, I have found no difficulty in
keeping any desired temperature down to 70°. If a succession of extreme
heat is raising the temperature above a desired point, it may be checked by
closing tlie ventilatmg tubes when the air without is warmer than desired,
and placing ice in the room on a drainer over a tub or box to catch the water
as the ice dissolves."
DR. wight's views.
In a recent discussion before the National Dairymen's Club, Dr. Wight,
of the Whitesboro Factory, said : — " If the milk tends to acidity, less heat and
more rennet should be used; if the milk should be tainted the converse
would be the treatment, viz., more heat and less rennet. I have observed
that the slight difference of not more than two degrees in warming the curd
will at times make one or two cents per pound difference in the price of the
cheese when sold, all other conditions being apparently the same. I have also
noticed that when green cheese is exposed to too low a temperature in the
early stages of curing, it invariably injures the texture, flavor and general
quality of the product during all the future stages of curing. In fact, T firmly
believe that if the milk should constantly be kept at a proper temperature,
and the curing-rooms be kept at a temperature neither too low nor too high —
all of which is barely and simply a work of art entirely under our own control
— I firmly believe, I say, that these conditions being constantly and rigidly
observed, we may readily save all that depreciation in the quality and price
of cheese which now invariably takes place during the heat of summer ;
losing to the dairyman seldom less than three, and frequently five and six
cents jDer pound. With the temperature of our milk and our manufactories
kept at a sufficiently low degree during the months of June, July and August,
we may preserve the cheese made during these months for the fall trade, and
thus realize an equal, if not a higher price for them than we now do for our
best fall cheese.
warming curing-rooms by steam.
" I Avill close with a few suggestions about the best mode of presei'ving
the most equable and proper temperatures in our curing-houses. Thorough
ventilation being premised, I would Avarm the rooms by steam pipes and cool
them by the admission of cold air from an ice-house, keeping the temperature
as near 70° as may be, equable throughout the building, and a little moist
rather than too dry. By strict attention to these few things much improve-
ment may be made in the quality and profits of our products."
Mr. Alexander McAdam, the very successful manufacturer of the Smith
Creek Factory, said, "In making cheese now (very early in spring) we are
making from milk three messes of which are skimmed and one new. When
skimmed the milk is placed in a warm place where the temperature is adapted
for the cream rising. Set at eighty, and coagulated sufficient to cut in thirty
minutes, it commences to thicken in fifteen minutes. He used extra rennet
for skim-milk cheese. He heated it slowly to eighty-eight. Sometimes in
448 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
cold weather the milk is very sweet and it may lie five or six hours in the
whey. He meant to keep the temjDerature about eiglity-eio-ht.
TEMPERATURE WHEN ONE MESS IS SKIMMED.
" When the weather becomes warmer he will use the milk with one mess
skimmed, and then the temperature would be at eighty-two and heat up to
ninety-two and keep to this temperature. This milk would require thirty-five
minutes to coagulate. He was accustomed to have coagulation occur sooner
than some factories, as some let it run an hour or even an hour and ten
minutes. By scalding as low as eighty-eight, the curd keeps soft and the
acid is developed before the curd becomes solid. He used more rennet, less
salt and less heat when making skim-milk cheese than without skimmino- the
milk. The salt is applied upon the slightest appearance of the acid. He used
it at the rate of one and one-half pounds of salt to the thousand pounds of
milk. The appearance of the cheese after coming from the press must be the
guide to the temperature and according to the appeai-ance of the cheese is
determined the place upon the shelves. The curd should be put to press as
soon as convenient after grinding, and before it gets too cool to face good.
MANAGEMENT WHEN FAILING TO PACE.
" If it failed to face, he used hot water and hot cloths imder the follower
and hot water upon the press board. If too much rennet was used the curd
would be rather slimy and it Avould not unite as well, but if the rennet was
sweet the taste Avould not be aflfected. He thought if too much rennet was
used some of the excess would be held at least mechanically in the curd and
would appear in the color.
TEMPERATURE FOR WHOLE MILK.
" He used with all new milk in spring manufacture a temperature of eighty-
two, and heat to ninety-four, and in curing he would not use over sixty-five
in the dry-house — such a handling would produce a fine-flavored cheese. The
action of heat facilitates the action of the rennet. He would use more heat
after applying the rennet. As a general thing he did not think two or three
degrees in temperature would make a great difference in the price of the cheese
when made. He thought time would modify the slight excess of temperature.
He would heat whole milk up to ninety-six in the summer time."
ADVANTAGES OF A CELLAR UNDER CHEESE FACTORIES.
Mr. McAdam spoke of a cheese factory which had a good cellar under
it. He said "In the summer time this cellar could be used with great advan-
tage as a curing-room. And in the spring and fall the cellar could be used
for a making-room, and the curing done above.
HOW IS THE RIPENING OP CHEESE AFFECTED BY THE MODE OP MANU-
FACTURE ?
" This subject is quite important, as it is often necessary to manufacture
cheese that will ripen very quickly. When the market is declining, to have
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 449
as many of them as possible fit for sale, and consequently bring a liiglier
price, is the great desideratum. On the contrary, when the cheese-market is
advancing it is often advisable to make cheese that will take a much longer
time in curing, so that in holding for higher prices there will be less danger
of deterioration in the quality of the cheese by their becoming off in flavor.
Now, in the ripening or curing of cheese, I regard the action of the rennet
as the element that does the whole business ; and, therefore, in making cheese
that are to cure quickly, we have only to place the rennet in the most favor-
able circumstances for promoting its growth all through the process of manu-
facture, and to cure slowly, the opposite. Now, what are the most favorable
circumstances for promoting the growth of the spores of the rennet ?
" First, is the presence of the greatest quantity of butter in the milk to
be manufactured into cheese. Second, a larger amount of rennet added to
such milk. Third, by using a lower temperature in cooking or scalding
the curd. Fourth, the absence or a minimum amount of acid in the curd,
when the salt is added ; and. Fifth, a less quantity of salt added to the
curd ; also by keeping the cheese in the curing-room at a higher temperature.
Cheese made from tainted milk will naturally cure more quickly than if the
milk was good. An exactly opposite process will check the growth of the
spores of the rennet in the milk, curd and cheese, and cause the cheese to
cure more slowly. Heat hastens the development of the acid more rapidly
than the development of the rennet spores, and though heat hastens both
developments, the acid is generated faster relatively. Cheese cured quickly
ought to go into immediate consumption, as if kept, especially in warm
weather, they deteriorate in quality very rapidly. And I think that the com-
plaints of the English shippers about the defects in the color and flavor of
American cheese, when held over winter, are mainly owing to the fact that
these cheese have been cured too quickly to hold long."
These views above, from some of our most successful cheese-makers, and
very recently expressed (1871), are worthy of attention.
SALTING THE CURDS.
The leading object of using salt in the curds is to arrest putrefactive fer-
mentation, and hold the cheese in a condition to make a suitable article of
food. Different nations, it is true, differ in their tastes. Some of the people
on the continent of Europe have so educated their taste as to prefer cheese that
is more or less tainted, but the English race, as a rule, demand a clean, well-
flavored article. As we are manufacturing mostly for English and American
markets, my remarks must refer particularly to the great bulk of goods made
to suit, what may be denominated as the English taste. The Swiss, the Lim-
berger, and other characters of cheese are now made to some extent in this
country, but the quantity is so small when compared with the great mass of
our product, that American dairymen do not generally understand what the
peculiar flavor is which is esteemed in the cheeses referred to.
.29
450 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Salt is a very important agent in modifying the taste of cheese,, and on
the manner in which it is^used, will depend in a great measure the character
and reputation of the dairy in market. In the application of salt there can
be but little doubt, that fine, clean flavor can be best secured in the cheese by
salting when the curds are comparatively cool. Some manufacturers have
the impression that salt is more efficient, and is more evenly distributed when
the curds are quite warm. I believe it is a well-established rule among meat
packers, that meats are secured in the best condition when salt is applied after
the meat has cooled off. At any rate in cheese manufacture a fine, delicate
flavor is only obtained when salt is applied to the curds at a low temperature.
This rule is strictly observed in the celebrated dairies of England, whether it
be Cheshire or Cheddar. Among the best Cheshire dairies, the heat at no
time during the process of manufacture is allowed to run above 78* or 80",
and in applying salt, as a rule 1b° should be regarded as the maximum tem-
perature of the curds.
In addition to the liability of affecting injuriously the flavor of cheese, by
applying salt while the curds are too warm, the salt has another effect. Its
action is to harden the parts of the curd Avith which it comes in contact, sur-
rounding them with a tough pellicle or coat of caseine, and thus preventing
a free flow of whey. The whey should be thoroughly expelled before salting,
for in no other way can the quantity of salt be regulated with certainty. If
there is much whey in the curds at the time of salting, it will be no easy
matter to guess at the quantity of salt that will pass off in the whey, and
hence, when this kind of guess work is relied on by the manufacturers, the
cheese will not be of uniform character. When too small a quantity of salt
is used, the cheese ripens with great rapidity, and must be eaten when com-
paratively young, for it will soon get out of flavor. Oh the other hand, too
much salt delays the ripening process ; the cheese is long in coming to
maturity, and is likely to be hard and stiff. It Avill be seen, therefore, that
the quantity of salt to be used should be pretty accurately determined,
according to the character of cheese we design to make. If we want cheese
to ripen in thirty days from the tub or vat, and go into market early and be
consumed, the quantity of salt must be regulated for that object; while
cheese of long-keeping qualities, maturing slowly, and requiring a higher per
centage of salt, must needs have the quantity also regulated with precision.
When the curds are drained, and subjected to pressure for a short time in
the hoop, and then broken up by passing through a curd mill, and then
salted as in the Cheddar process, the proportion of salt can be regulated
with great nicety. But in all cases, before salting, it is well to have the
curds as dry as they can be conveniently made.
^ Another office of salt is to check the acidity of the curds. When the
acid has been fully developed, and the process carried far enough, the appli-
cation checks its further progress, and thus, in the manipulation, is made to
serve a very important purpose in the hands of a skillful manufacturer. I can
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 451
only announce some of the principles to be observed in the use of salt for
clieese-malcing. What I particularly wish to impress is, that it cannot be
employed at random, and that the making of fine cheese depends, in a good
degree, upon the time, manner and quantity in which the manufacturer
employs this agent for his work. The quantity of salt used by manufjxcturers
varies according to the character of cheese to be made at different seasons of
the year, from two and one-fourth to three pounds of salt to one hundred
pounds of green cheese. In spring, when it is desired to have the cheese
ripen quickly, as low a proportion as two to two and one-fourth pounds are
used. In hot weather, two and a-half to two and seven-tenths pounds, for
one hundred pounds green cheese are employed by the best manufacturers,
aud sometimes three pounds are used, and these proportions refer to curds
that are not pressed before salting, and consequently are not thoroughly
drained of whey. The rule among the best Cheddar dairymen of England is
one pound of salt for fifty-six pounds of curd ; the salt applied after the curds
have been pressed for ten minutes in the hoop, and then ground in a curd
mill, the temperature of the curds being from 60° to 65°. The English
Cheddars are longer in coming to maturity than the usual style of American
manufacture. It will be seen, also, that in the English process, the curds
are made dryer at the time of salting, than generally obtains in American
manufacture, and that in consequence a less amount of salt is required, or is
used, than at the American factories.
THE KIND OF SALT TO BE USED.
Much has been said and written about salt for dairy purposes ; the subject
is by no means exhausted ; it at least demands discussion and agitation, so
long as dairy products continue to be injured and spoiled by the use of an
impure article. Many people imagine that all salt in the market is pure ; that
if its appearance to the eye is clean, it contains no ingredients deleterious to
butter and cheese, and that all the difference between a common article and
the higher grades consists in pulverizing and putting up in neater packages.
One can meet scores of men who will insist there is no other difference than
that we have named, and that they do not propose to throw away money on
a high-priced article. They prefer to prepare their own salt, crushing the
lumps, if necessary, and chuckling over the superior sagacity they have to
those who are throwing away their money on a high-priced article. Some-
how it generally turns out that these very wise and saving persons have a
low grade product of butter and cheese, and in consequence make sales con-
siderably below those obtained for a first-class article.
I have sustained losses, both in butter and cheese, on account of using
poor salt, and I have no confidence in the common barrel salt constantly to
be met with in the market. Some of it may be good, and most of it may
possibly do for the ordinary purposes for which it was intended, but the risk
never should be taken of using it in butter and cheese. The dealers and
452 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
experts in butter have for years cautioned the butter-makers to use nothino-
but the best Ashton or LiverjDool salt. Chlorides of calcium and magnesium
are the substances in salt which affect the taste and injure the quality of
butter, however carefully otherwise it may be made.
Solar salt, produced by evaporating the brines, and which is largely used
by packers, though it may not contain any deleterious substance that would
affect meats, is very likely to contain a sufficient per centage of the chlorides
to injure the taste of butter. To the cultivated taste of an experienced
butter buyer, the least trace of the chlorides existing in the salt used betrays
its presence. The Ashton is a very good salt, but is expensive. All the salt
sold under the name or brand of Ashton is not genuine. Cheese and butter-
makers should purchase their salt only of reliable dealers— men Avho know
where they obtain their goods, and can vouch for their quality.
Somewhat recently the Onondaga Salt Works, at Syracuse, N. Y., have
been manufacturing a superior dairy salt. Prof Goessman, a distinguished
chemist, was employed for some years at the Works, to superintend the
manufacture of salt, with a view of freeing it from deleterious substances,
and it is by his process that the brand known as " factory filled " or dairy
salt is now manufactured. From numerous chemical analyses, it exhibits
greater purity than the Ashton and other foreign brands, and its use among
our best dairymen, for some years, has proved its perfect adaptation to
the dairy.
At the New York State Fair, in 1867, there was a large exhibition of
butter from different parts of the State, and among the packages were a num-
ber of samples, half of which had been salted with Onondaga and half with
Ashton salt. The Committee, composed of experts, pronounced, in twenty-
five cases, the butter cured with factory filled salt, made at the New York
Mills, Syracuse, to be the best, as compared with its alternate package, cured
in the same dairy with Ashton. Prof S. W. Johnson of the Sheffield Scien-
tific School, Yale College, has stated that the purest salt made in this or any
other country that he is acquainted with, came from Syracuse, where the
ingenious processes of Dr. Goessman were then employed, and that such
factory filled salt must take rank second to none, as regards purity and free-
dom from any deleterious ingredients, especially the chlorides of calcium and
magnesium. Gov. Alvoed of Syracuse stated, at a meeting of the Amer-
ican Dairymen's Association, that the Onondaga Salt Company were pre-
pared to guarantee their factory filled salt, and to pay for every pound of
butter or cheese that was injured by the use of such salt ; but the salt must
come from the accredited agents of the Company, as certain dealers had been
known to put up other salt in packages, using the factory filled brand.
I have referred to these facts, because I know the genuine article to be
good ; and as it is furnished much cheaper than the foreign or imported salt,
it is of interest for dairymen to know it.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 453
to distinguish good salt.
A satisfactory evidence of pure salt is its dryness, as the chlorides cause
salt to absorb and retain moisture. In order that dairymen may be enabled
to judge somewhat of the character of good dairy salt, from its aj)pearance
in addition to its dryness, I give the following from Prof. Chaeles H.
Porter : — " A chalky or very fine grained or pulverulent salt is not the best
for dairy purposes, and would at once be rejected, I believe, by experience
dairymen. A good dairy salt, ought, I imagine, besides being of proper
chemical composition, to be of moderately fine grain, crystalline and trans-
parent, and, when seen in a mass, of a pure white color ; it ought to be
free from odor, and possess that sharp, pungent taste characteristic of
pure salt."
STIRRING THE MILK DURING THE NIGHT.
One of the mechanical devices brought to the notice of cheese-manu-
facturers, during the past few years, is the milk agitator. They commenced
to be used in 1867, but since that time their use has become quite general,
and our best factories in New York consider them of great utility. They are
without doubt one of the useful improvehients for cheese factories in this age
of fertile invention. There are two or three kinds, but all work nearly upon
the same principle, or accomplish the same object, that is, stirring the milk
in the vats during the night, and are operated by the waste water from the
vats. Before these appliances came in use, it was necessary for cheese-
makers to stir the night's milk in the vats until it Avas reduced to a temper-
ature of 60". In hot weather the constant flow of water under the milk, or
between the vats, Avas not sufficient to preserve it in good order, and this
stirring had to be continued, from time to time, until a late hour of the night.
It is evident if machinery can be introduced for this purpose, a great saving
of labor is secured.
There is another object gained by stirring the milk at intervals during
the night : the cream is prevented from rising, which is of great importance
where butter is not made at the factory, as it is very difficult to get the
cream which has once risen back again into the milk for cheese-making with-
out loss ; and again, the particles of milk being moved so as to be exposed
to the atmosphere, it keeps in better order. The apparatus is quite simple,
and consists merely of a wooden float, attached to an arm, which is carried
back and forward, at intervals, across the vat, and operated by a water
wheel or water box, which is kept moving by the M'aste water from the vats.
Doubtless much benefit is often gained by this movement of the milk,
especially when not in perfect condition, as the particles are being constantly
exposed to the atmosphere, and improved by allowing bad odors to pass off:
During the summer of 1867 one of the best cheese manufacturers of
Oneida wrote to me as follows : — " Believing, as I do, that the agitator
deserves more extensive notice, and more general introduction into cheese
454
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
factories than it has yet received, I desire to add my testimony respect-
ing its merits and benefits. Some weeks since I consented to have the
agitator introduced into the four vats of my factory, on trial ; I am so far
pleased with it, that I have come to the conclusion that it is a necessary
appurtenance to my factory. It is not claimed for it, I believe, that a larger
yield of cheese can be obtained by its use, though I am of opinion that a
slight increase in quantity and quality will result, when the agitator is
judiciously used; this will especially be the case in the cold part of the
season : it certainly is a perfect preventive of the raising of any cream, and
that this is an important advantage no one will deny, I find, also, that the
milk in the vats, in the morning, has an incomparably sweeter, cleaner,
fresher taste and smell than ever before ; and this, notwithstanding the fact
that my spring aifords an abundance of excellent water, and the temperature
of the milk in the morning, before the agitator was put in, had always been
Austin's Agitator, showino Water Wheel and manner op appltinq Eakes to the Vats.
from 54° to 58°. The necessity of stirring milk until ten, eleven and even
twelve o'clock at night, as is the case in very many factories, is entirely
obviated. If there were no other advantage arising, resulting from its use,
this alone should be sufficient argument in its favor. Factory hands work
hard, and if the night's labor can be dispensed with, it should be done. Of
course, further experience and fuller acquaintance with its operations and
effects may modify and radically change my views in relation to it. After
the testimony of such experienced and successful cheese-makers as Col.
Miller and others, who used it last year, I hardly look for such a result.
At present I heartily commend its use, only suggesting that, in my judg-
ment, the motion of the frame and rakes should be slow— not over two or
three strokes per minute." The experience of the past three years has con-
firmed these views as to the utility of this appliance.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. >^ 455
use op ice in" cooling and preserving milk,
The use of ice in cooling and preserving milk for cheese manufacture is
practiced to a large extent. It is applied in various ways ; sometimes by
adding it in messes to the milk in the vats, or by placing it in large tin cool-
ers, which are then immersed in the milk, and in various other ways, to suit
the convenience of those who have the care of the dairy. Recently coolers
have been invented, to be used for cooling milk with ice at the farm ; but it
may be well to caution those who employ ice for this purjDose, that it should
not be used in direct contact with the milk, or in any way in which the milk
may come in contact with an ice-cold surface. .
An impression prevails with many that no injury can result to milk from
the use of ice, no matter in what way it may be employed. Ice, if judiciously
used in connection with the dairy, is convenient and useful in hot weather,
and especially so when the supply of water is limited, or its temperature is so
high that the milk cannot be cooled down properly by it alone. But because
the direct application of an ice cold surface does not do the milk any apparent
injury for the moment, it must not be inferred that it has no remote influence
upon the product of butter and cheese which may be manufactured out of
such milk. All animal bodies, though they may be kept fresh and sweet for
a long time when laid upon ice in an ice box, yet when exposed to the air and
warmth rapidly decompose and become stale. When milk has been cooled
by coming in contact with ice and then manufactured into cheese, the injury
does not immediately show itself; but it has been observed that the cheese
ripens rapidly, decays early, and will not keep in flavor like that which is
made of milk, none of the particles of which have come in contact with a sur-
face of lower temperature than 50®.
The butter makers of Orange county,. N. Y., who have experimented
laro-ely with milk, are extremely cautious in the use of ice in connection with
butter manufacture. It is sometimes necessary to use it during hot weather
while churning, by breaking it up fine and applying it to the cream in the
churn ; but when ice has been employed in this way, the butter will not
keep ; though for present use the butter may be regarded as of prime quality.
In 1868, during the month of July, we had extremely warm weather, and ice
was used in the New York factories quite freely — often injudiciously. From
an account of the cheese made that year, given by the English shjpper, Mr.
Webb, it appears there was not a single factory sending cheese abroad that
had it arrive and retain a good, clean flavor. He says : — " The English dealer
and the English consumer alike began to get a surfeit of that strong flavored,
loosely made, bad-keeping quality, which was the universal characteristic of
the July make of cheese. This inferior quality," he remarks, "was doubtless
largely owing to the intensely hot weather then prevailing. But whatever
the cause, your very serious attention should be directed to the discovery of
a remedy — for not a single dairy, .is far as my personal experience and pretty
full inquiries extended, not one single dairy stood the test of that most trying
456 ^ Practical Dairy Husbandry.
month. Even those dairies that for a series of years have been always and
uniformly excellent, did not hold their own last July ; but proved in the
matter of flavor and keeping qualities to be no better than the great majority
of your State factories."
Now how far the injudicious use of ice may have added to the trouble I
am unable to say; but I have no doubt that some share at least may be justly
laid to that source. I have personal knowledge of some factories where large
quantities of ice are used to cool the milk by applying it directly to the milk
in the vats, and the milk is apparently in good order, and yet great complaint
is made of the cheese manufactured as soon "off flavor," while it must be
observed that the best flavored goods are not made at those factories which
use the ice in this way ; but where there is an abundance of pure, cold
water — cold water and an agitator which stirs the milk during the nio-ht,
worked by the waste water from the vats, give practically the best results.
As this question of ice is somewhat new to the dairy public, and has not been
very closely investigated by cheese manufacturers, it will be sufficient to call
attention to the matter, with the suggestion to avoid as far as possible the
use of ice, or an ice cold surface in direct contact with the milk.
DRAWING OFF THE CURDS.
Where large quantities of milk are delivered at one point to be manufac-
tured into cheese, it is important to have every convenience, so that it may
be handled easily and expeditiously. Without convenient appliances the
cheese factory system would be a failure. It would be very difficult, and
perhaps impossible, to make the fine character of cheese now demanded in
the leading markets of the Avorld by massing the milk in large quantities, and
using old appliances in operation before the factory system was inaugurated.
It is to the perfection of cheese factory machinery and the mechanical devices
for manipulating milk in proper time that the manufacturer, in a great measure,
owes his success. It is true, intelligence and skill, with habits of close obser-
vation, are necessary in cheese manufacture, and no amount of mechanical
contrivance can be substituted for them. But as many of the operations in
cheese making admit of no delay, but require immediate and rapid action,
the appliances must be suited to the work, or the most skillful operator will
be liable to fail in securing the best results. What seems to be a most for-
tunate thing for American cheese dairying is, that whenever any essential
point or principle is discovered in manufacture, the inventors imme-
diately step in with devices or contrivances for easily securing the object
desired. I could mention several of these which are unknown among the best
Cheddar cheese makers of England, and which doubtless would not yet have
been invented here had we remained under the old system of farm dairies.
THE SHUTE.
Among the somewhat recent improvements in cheese factory arrangements
IS the Shute. This invention originated in Herkimer county, and is now
Pracjical Dairy Husbandry. 457
being adopted by all the new or improved rnodled factories. The shute is
now introduced among those factories in New York which produce cheese
that sells for extreme or " top prices." I do not presume to say that the
shute is the only or chief cause of the high reputation which these factories
enjoy, and yet I have no doubt it has contributed somewhat in efiecting this
reputation. Indeed, in some instances at least, tlie manufacturers are from
factories where the shute is not employed, and only in taking charge of the
shute factories have their reputations reached the enviable position they now
enjoy. The shute is an arrangement in the vats, whereby all the curds in the
vats may be thrown upon the sink in a moment. In this arrano-ement the
floor of the manufacturing room at one end of the vats is sunk some four feet
below the part upon which the vats stand. Here is placed the sink upon
rails, and in some instances immediately back of it the presses. The ends of
the vats come out nearly to the fall in the floor, and in the end of each vat
there is a large circular opening secured with an iron door, water-tight, which
is opened for the discharge of the curds. When a vat is to be emptied the
sink is rolled along opposite the vat, the vat canted down, the tin conductor
placed under the orifice or point of discharge in the vat, and the iron door
removed. In this manner the vat is rapidly emptied of its contents, and the
curds at once spread out upon the sink to cool. Old clieese makers will
readily understand the advantage of this arrangement. When the acid is
properly developed it should be immediately checked. With large masses
of curd, and under the old arrangement, it was very difficult to time opera-
tions to meet this condition. To dip the curd out with pails often required
so much time that, do the best you could, the acid would often be carried too
far before the work was accomplished. As the temperature of the atmosphere
varies from day to day, and the condition of the milk is also difierent, it was
exceedingly difficult to calculate the changes that would occur in a few
minutes. It will be seen, then, how great the advantage is when the manu-
facturer can empty his vat at once. Sometimes acidity goes on gradually for
a time, and then all at once is developed much more rapidly than was antici-
pated. With the shute you are master of the situation ; you have the whole
matter under control ; you manipulate your forces to produce an exact result ;
you march to the very threshold of danger, but do not step over the line ;
you have control of the shute, and at the word of command you feel that you
can count upon accomplishing the object desired. The shute is, without
doubt, of considerable assistance in securing the make of nice, marketable
goods, and its adoption can be recommended on- this account, in addition to
the labor it saves over the old plan of dipping.
PROCESS FOK MAKING EXTRA PINE CHEESE.
We have now discussed at length some of the leading points in cheese
manufacture, and I here give some of the most recent views and practice of
manufacturers who have been successful in making a high-priced cheese, and
458 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
^
in this connection the following paper of Mr. A. McAdam, read at the Dairy-
men's Convention of 1871, so fully explains in regular order and in detail the
method of cheese making at the Smith Creek factory, that it will be useful.
I may remark in passing that the cheese made at the Smith Creek factoiy in
1869 and 1870 was regarded by dealers and shippers as a fancy article, and
it sold at the Little Falls, N. Y., market uniformly at the highest price paid
for best factories, Mr. McAdam says : — " I will give a description of the
process as I practice it, and state some of the reasons why I practice it. As
you ai'e probably all aware, the milk that is delivered at cheese factories is
not always in the same state, sometimes being tainted or partially putrid,
sometimes sour, or nearly so, and sometimes it is, what it always ought to be,
perfect. I propose to describe the process, first, when the milk is right and
good; second, when it is partially sour, and third, when tainted. The
evening's milk, when delivered at the factory, ought to be cooled so as to
reach a temperature of 58° to 62° in the morning. When the morning's
milk is added, it is heated to 80", then enough rennet is added to coagulate
the mass in as nearly forty minutes' time as possible. When the curd has
attained sufficient consistency, it is cut four times — twice with the horizontal
curd knife, and twice with the perpendicular one, with a short interval
between each cutting. The curd is then gently manipulated and heated to
96°, care being taken to prevent the curd from packing on the bottom of the
vat ; the time required for heating being from an hour to an hour and a-half.
The stirring is continued for ten or fifteen minutes after this heat has been
attained, and the curd is then allowed to pack on the bottom of the vat, where
it lies undisturbed until the separation of the whey from the curd becomes
necessary. Up to this stage the process is almost identical with that prac-
ticed in manufacturing cheese in the usual manner.
" In the manufacture of American cheese (I will so designate the method
usually practiced, to distinguish it from the process, which I will term Ched-
dar)^ it is of the utmost importance to determine the precise time at which to
separate the whey from the curd, and it is also an operation requiring the
greatest amount of skill and experience, as well as the exercise of the nicest
sense of taste and smell. But in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese it is not
of the same vital importance, as the Avhey can be separated from the curd
from half an hour to an hour and a-half before acidity is developed so as to
be perceptible ; and, on the other hand, the whey can be left on the curd till
the acid is distinctly developed, without materially affecting the quality of the
product. As the acid or souring generally makes its appearance about noon,
in summer, the Cheddar system gives factory hands more time lor dinner,
and consequently they can masticate their food, instead of having to bolt it,
as has to be done in many cases. When the whey is drawn off, and the vat
tipped down on one end, the curd is then heaped on each side of the vat,
leaving a space in the middle to allow the remainder of the whey to pass off.
I may here state that when the " shute," or flood gate, is not used, there
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 459
ought to be, in the Cheddar system, a faucet in the vat, to allow the whey to
pass off as it drains from the curd. After the curd has laid in a heap on the
bottom of the vat for jBfteen or twenty minutes, and the original particles of
curd have become amalgamated into a solid mass, it is then cut into con-
venient pieces with a knife, and turned over, and so left until the curd has
become sour enough for grinding and salting, which is determined by the
taste of the whey that drains from the curd. This whey should now have a
sharp, sour milk taste, which can be understood by any intelligent cheese
maker, after a few days' experience. The curd is then torn by hand into
strips of two or three pounds weight, and allowed to cool for a short time, in
order to allow the butter in it to become solid enough so as not to escape
during the operation of grinding. The curd is then ground into pieces,
averaging about the size of hickory nuts. Five hundred pounds of curd can
be ground by hand, with Mc Adam's curd mill, in from five to fifteen minutes,
according to the toughness of the curd and muscle of the operator. The salt
is then immediately added and mixed thoroughly, at the rate of from one and
a-half to two and a quarter pounds per one thousand pounds of milk, accord-
ing to circumstances. The curd is then ready to be put into the hoops for
pressing.
" 2d. Mode of procedure when the milk we have to handle is (from what-
ever cause) sour, or partially so ; and such cases are liable to happen in any
factory, however well regulated. You are all aware that when milk is par-
tially sour, it will coagulate in the same time as sweet milk with the addition
of considerably less rennet. But to such milk I usually add more rennet,
instead of less, so as to have the coagulation occur very quickly. As soon as
the rennet has completed its ofiice, I commence cutting and working the curd
much more rapidly than usual. In such cases I use very little heat in scald-
ing — seldom heating over 86° or 90°, according to the severity of the case.
Indeed, in some instances, when the milk is very sour, I do not think that it
is advisable to heat the curd at all after coagulation. I reason in this way :
just as good cheese can be made without scalding at all, as with it; the
reason that we scald the curd (if heating to a temperature of 98° can be called
scalding), is to develop the acid sooner, and if, when the curd is inclined to
develop acid sooner than usual, we heat it to a temperature of 96° to 98°,
we hasten the action of the acid, which is the very thing we are trying to
avoid. In other words, when the acid in the curd is developing too fast of
its own accord, we develop it still faster by means of heat, and thus aggra-
vate the evil. After this curd is cut up, the whey must be removed from it
as fast as it makes its appearance, and as soon as practicable the vat must be
tipped down and the curd thrown to the upper end of the vat. The curd at
this stage is very sloppy, as it contains considerable whey. One person
should now cut it into small pieces with a knife, and another be employed in
turning the pieces over and piling them up in heaps, so as to liberate the
whey, which passes off in a continuous stream. When the curd has assumed
460 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
a proper consistency it must be ground and salted ; the quantity of salt used
must be according to the amount of whey contained in the curd, which-is
generally, in such cases, considerably more than usual. In extreme cases, the
whole process, from the adding of the rennet to the mixing in of the salt, can
be performed in less than an hour.
" To explain why more rennet is needed when the milk is partially sour,
I will refer to the address delivered by Professor Caldwell last year, before
this Convention, and also to the able and highly useful paper read by L. B.
Arnold, Esq., on 'Rennet, its Nature and Use,' before the same Conven-
tion. These gentlemen demonstrated to us very clearly that the acting
principle of rennet consists of minute globules, or spores, which feed upon
nitrogenous substances, and when placed in such, at a favorable temperature,
multiply very rapidly. Now a quantity of rennet, containing a vast number
of these spores, placed in a vat of milk which is highly nitrogenous, at a tem-
perature of 80°, which is favorable to their growth, will multiply in a short
time to such an extent as to cause its coagulation. And their action by no
means stops here. They have still a very important mission to perform, viz.,
that of curing or ripening the cheese. And if the presence of these spores
in the cheese, cures or rijjens it, an excess of them will ripen the cheese more
quickly, and vice versa. Now we all know that a sour cheese, or a cheese
which contains an excess of sour milk spores (Arthrococci), takes a much
longer time to ripen than a sweet cheese, and vice versa. Therefore, to have
a cheese cured in a given time, the spores of the Micrococci and of the Arthro-
cocci, must be contained in it in relative quantities. So, when we have a vat
of sour milk to handle, where the Arthrococci are in abundance, we must add
more rennet to counterbalance their action on the nitrogenous ingredients of
the milk, and thereby cause the cheese to ripen much quicker than if less
rennet had been added. I have found by experiment, during the past sum-
mer, that cheese made from sour milk in the above manner will cure as fast
as other cheese, but they will require more annatto to make them of the same
color, these sour milk spores appearing to have a destructive effect upon
annatto. I have likewise noticed that such cheese will have more tendency
to mold, but the flavor will not be objectionable.
"3. When the milk is tainted, or has an excess of putrefactive spores.
This tainted milk occurs, in some localities, in hot weather, no matter what
care is taken in cleaning the ixtensils with which it comes, in contact, and I
think that the milk is damaged in most cases before it is drawn from the cow.
But of course it can be greatly aggravated by being brought into contact
with unclean milk pails, strainers, cans, &c., which have not been properly
cleansed, and therefore contain numbers of those putrefactive spores clinging
to their seams and crevices, and which spring into new life and activity on
being brought into contact with the warm milk. During the past season,
from the middle of June to the middle of September, in a factory of over nine
hundred cows, I did not have a vat of milk which was not tainted, most of it
Fractical JJairy Husbandry. 461
very badly, and over one-third of it so much that the curd floated. The
cheese made from this milk sold for the highest price iu the Little Falls mar-
ket. In handling such milk I prefer to have the temperature of the evening's
mess about 68° or 70° in the morning before the morning's milk is added, for
two reasons. First, it has been shown that the putrefactive spores are in
great abundance in such tainted milk ; by leaving the evening's milk through
the night at a higher temperature, we promote the growth of the Arthro-
cocci, or sour milk spores, and these check the growth of the Micrococci, and
counterbalance their action to a certain degree. Second, when the milk is left
through the night at a higher temperature, a great number of the putrefac-
tive spores pass off in the form of gas, esi^ecially where the milk agitator is
used. This we know by the foul odor it emits when warm, but when the
milk is cooled to a low tem];)erature, this gas is not so volatile, and does not
escape so readily, as we can perceive by its emitting little or no smell. But
the cooling of the milk does not kill the Micrococci ; it only partially pre-
vents their escape, and though at the same time cooling the milk, also retards
their growth as well as their escape ; it also retards the growth of the sour
milk spores, and these are much more efficient agents for the prevention of
putrefaction than cooling is. Therefore, I maintain that the less tainted or
putrid milk is cooled, so as not to be absolutely sour in the morning, the
better the product obtained will be, if the milk be properly handled. I know
that some cheese-makers prefer cooling such milk to as low a temperature as
possible, and add sour whey with the rennet in the morning, and have very
good success, but I prefer the former method, as by it the foi'mation of the
putrefactive spores is checked at a much earlier stage of the proceedings.
With this difference of cooling the milk, my process is the same with tainted
milk as with good milk, until the separation of the whey from the curd.
When tainted we allow the whey to remain on the curd imtil acid is slightly
perceptible, whether the curd floats or not. The whey is then drawn off and
the curd handled as before. If the curd is badly tainted, while lying in a
mass at the bottom of the vat, it will swell up to twice its original size, like
dough under the action of the yeast, and when broken emits a very offensive
odor. The exact degree of acidity to be allowed to develop at this point is
the most important, as well as the most difficult thing to determine in the
whole management of floating curds, as the odor and taste of both the curd
and the whey that drains from it very much resemble acid, and are in a great
many instances mistaken for it. The acid ought to be developed just enough
to kill the taint, and no more, and the result, notwithstanding the assertions
of some to the contrary, will be a fine cheese. After the requisite amount
of acid has been determined upon, and the curd ground and salted (using the
same amount of salt as when not tainted), the curd must be cooled and ven-
tilated as much as possible before being put to press.
" I do not pretend to say that cheese can be made from tainted milk and
floating curds, possessing quite as much of the fine, nutty aroma as f]-om
4G2 PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY.
curds properly handled which are not tainted at all. But I do assert that I
have seen cheese made from floating curds, in several factories during the past
summer, that were perfectly close, rich and meaty, having no objectionable
flavor, and which not one expert in ten would object to.
" One other fact I wish to mention : It requires more milk when tainted,
to make a pound of cheese, than when it is not. One reason for this is, that
more acid must be present in such cases, and, of course, the more acid the
less cheese. In the Smith Creek Factory, last summer, it took two pounds
more milk to make a pound of cheese in July than it did in April.
" I have endeavored to tell you how I practice grinding curds. I will now
try to tell you why I practice it. In the first place, I think that it requires
less milk to make a pound of cheese ; in the second place, it does not tax the
judgment of the cheese-maker so much, or require so much skill and atten-
tion ; and, in the third place, I think that cheese made by the Cheddar process
will be closer, and at tlie same time appear more rich and buttery, and will
cure faster. It takes less milk to make a pound of cheese because the whey
is drawn from the curd before the acid is perceptible, while in the American
system, the whey has to be left on the curd from ten to sixty minutes after
acid is detected, in order to insure a good, solid cheese, and you all know that
sour whey will eat or digest grease from any substance containing it, with which
it comes in contact. The longer the curd is exposed to this acidity in the whey
the slimier the whey becomes, on account of the grease it has taken from
the curd, and, in fact, some cheese-makers determine when the curd is ready
to dip into the sink by the sliminess or sudsing of the whey. The quantity
of butter which passes ofi" unseen in the American system is certainly more
than is contained in the small quantity of wJiite whey which comes from the
cheese when pressing in the Cheddar system.
" During the past season, notwithstanding the general complaint that the
milk did not yield well, and the fact that over half of the cheese made at
Smith Creek Factory was from tainted milk, we used only 9 9-lOths pounds
of milk for one pound of cured cheese. And the reason why the Cheddar .
cheese will appear more rich and buttery, with the same solidity, is that when
the whey is drawn from the curd before the acid is detected, the action of
the sour milk spores is retarded, and the rennet, at work in the mass of warm
curd, is allowed full play. And, as the rennet cures the cheese, it will there-
fore cure sooner, and, curing sooner, will be richer and more buttery at the
same age."
HERKIMER COUNTY " FANCY FACTORY CHEESE."
As the manner of making a high-priced cheese is always of interest to
manufacturers, I give some of the leading features at a few fancy factories
where " gilt-edged" cheese is made. The processes are those adopted in 1870.
At the North Fairfield Factory, the temperature of milk in the morning is
56°. The night's milk is cooled by passing a stream of water between the*
vats and underneath the milk vat. Rennet is added for coagulating when the
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 463
milk has been raised to a temperature of 84°. After coagulation is perfected
the curds are cut first with the horizontal curd-knife, which leaves the mass
in thin sheets. Then follow with the perpendicular knife, cutting lengthwise
of the vat. Let the curds now stand ten minutes, or until the whey forms;
when the curds are cut with the perpendicular knife across the vat.
The breaking having been perfected, heat is begun to be gradually applied
and is continued until the mass reaches a temperature of 98°, the time occu-
pied being one and a-half hours or thereabouts. It is regarded of great
importance to heat slowly, and care is taken that tlie increase in temperature
in all parts of the heating process is regular and gradual. Sour whey is not
usually employed, as it is preferred that the acid be developed in heating.
The curds are taken out of the vat into, the sink at 90° — the acid having been
developed — and they are left exposed in the sink to cool. If acid has by
chance been carried too far in the vat, cold water is conducted between the
vats, under the curds .to cool them rapidly. It is preferred, however, to cool
the curds by exposing them to the air, as they are spread out in the sink.
When the curds have been cooled down to a temperature of from 75° to
80°, and also ai"e thoroughly drained of whey; they are salted in summer at
the rate of 2 9-lOths pounds of salt to one hundred pounds of green cheese,
and for September about a tenth of a pound less salt. If the milk in hot
weather is not all right, or if tainted, particular attention is given to have
the curds exjDosed a long time to the atmosphere. The temperature of the
curing-room is kept at 70°, or as near that point as possible.
In May the average quantity of milk for a pound of cured cheese was
9 37-lOOths pounds; in June, 9 3-lOths pounds, and in July 9 7-1 Oths pounds.
The cheese on hand at the time of my visit, were meaty, solid and of unifoi'm
fine flavor. The factory is convenient in its arrangements, but the building
is very plain and cheap in appearance.
The factory of the Norway Association receives the milk from four hun-
dred cows, and careful attention is given among patrons to deliver clean,
sweet milk. An agitator is kept moving in the night's milk, and the temper-
ature of the water is reduced with ice, so that the night's milk will stand in
the morning at a temperature of 60°. Mr. James, the manufacturer, sets the
milk for coagulation at 84°, and during the pi'oeess of scalding 98° is the
highest temperature employed. The best factory filled salt is used in spring
at the rate of two and a-half pounds to one hundred of curd ; in summer the
salt is three pounds, and in fall two and seven-tenths pounds.
As at other factories where high-priced cheese is made, the heating process
is very slow and gradual, requiring from one and a-quarter to one and a-half
hours. Great attention is paid to the development of the acid, and Mr.
James attributes his success to the faculty of distinguishing the proper con-
dition of the curds in this respect, and to their exposure to the atmosphere in
the sink until properly matured. Of course these peculiar conditions of the
curds cannot be described in words, but must be learned by experience.
464 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Mr. James says he likes to develop the acid " sharp " through Juue, July and
August, but in fall not so much. As soon as it can be detected in the vats
the whey is immediately withdrawn, and as I have before remarked the
appliance of the shute is here of service in taking immediate advantao-e for
regulating this condition of the curds.
The cheese at this factory are pressed in fourteen and a-half inch hoops,
weigh about sixty pounds each. Tliey are slightly colored. At the time of
my visit fifteen cheeses were being made daily. The highest receipts of milk
during the season were ten thousand j^ounds, which made eighteen and a-half
cheeses daily.
THE " COARSE CURBS " PROCESS
is followed at the Cold Creek Factory, and whatever diifej-ence of opinion
there may be as to the merits of this process, it is just to say that the cheese
shows it to be a success. I saw the Cold Creek brand in England in 1866,
and heard dealers express their opinion that it was among the best of the
American factories. Since that time, if measured by the test of prices at home,
the process, at least in Mr, Hopson's hands, must be considered a success.
What is claimed in the coarse curds process, is the production of cheese,
solid yet mellow in texture, having a sweet, nutty or new milk flavor, or as
the trade expresses it, " clean flavored ;" and finally, a better retention of the
butteraneous matter of the milk, than in the ordinary course of manufacture.
The theory of the coarse curds is, that the less the cutting or agitation of
the curds while in a soft state the more butter you retain, hence the curds are
cut or broken no moi'e than is absolutely necessary, while the stirring is of
the gentlest kind, and just sufiicient to keep the mass from clinging together.
Mr. HopsoN sets the milk for coagulation at 80°, using a sufiicient quantity
of rennet to thoroughly coagulate the mass fit for the knife in an hour. Then
he commences cutting with a gang of steel blades, lengthwise of the vat,
going through once.
The mass is now left at rest from ten to twenty minutes, until the whey
begins to rise. Then a four-bladed knife (with blades three-fourths of an
inch apart) is used for the cross-cutting. It is set at an angle of 45° with
the bottom of the vat, and run through the mass crosswise of the vat. Then
if there is likely to be no immediate change in the whey, the mass is left at
rest for ten or fifteen minutes, and the knife used again across the vat, the
operator standing on the side opposite to where he stood for the previous
cutting. Inexperienced cheese-makers, or those who do not understand tlie
philosophy of cheese-making, advise that all the cutting be done as quickly
as possible, and if an instrument could be made for the purpose, would prefer
that all the cutting should be done instantaneously. This is evidently inju-
dicious, as the whey forms slowly, and a complete division of curds at once
in their tender condition cannot be efiected without liberating the oily parti-
cles, and thus causing Avaste. Such cutting is admissible only when acidity
is progressing rapidly, and all parts of the process require to be hastened.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 465
lu the coarse curd process, the cutting having been performed as just
described, it completes what is understood by " breaking " — for no other
division or breaking up of the particles is deemed necessary. Heat is now
begun to be applied very slowly, and the mass is stirred in the gentlest manner
possible, and no more than to prevent the curds from running or clinging
together. Great attention is paid to careful handling in this part of the pro-
^cess, in order that none of the buttery particles be pressed out, the theory
being to let the curds do their own work as far as possible. The time of
heating up is usually about an hour or an hour and a-quarter, the mass being
raised to 100°. After heating, the cm-ds are only stirred occasionally to pre-
vent matting, and the mass remains in the vats till the acid is propeiiy devel-
oped. Mr. Hopsoisr depends for the most part upon the sense of smell in
determining the degree of acidity required, and with long practice and good
judgment in this respect, he is able to time operations so as to manage his
curds with great uniformity. The curds are now thrown into the sink to be
exposed to the atmosphere, where they are stiiTed, and when properly cooled
down and the acidity carried to the exact point desired, salt is applied.
THE SALTING
during the summer is at the rate of three and a-half pounds salt to one
hundred pounds curd, and it is thoroughly and evenly incorporated with the
curds. In spring and up to the 10th of May three and a-quarter pounds
salt is the rate. No sour whey is used except that employed for soaking the
rennets. The curds when ready to salt, aj^pear to be in particles about the
size of chestnuts. They have a very nice look and feel, being what cheese-
makers term " lively."
Although this is an old factory tlie buildings are in good repair, clean and
sweet, with neat suiTOundings. The size of the dairy-house is thirty by one
hundred feet, and the manufactory, which is a separate structure, thirty-six by
thirty-six feet. Milk is delivered from five hundred and fifty cows. Ordi-
narily the cheese is pressed in fifteen and a-half inch hoops, and will weigh
sixty-five pounds each. The factory is supplied with an abundance of pure
spring Avater of a temperature of about 52''. In summer a stream of water
is kept flowing under the night's milk in the vats, and the milk is stirred also
during the night with Austin's agitator.
On the 8th of September, 1869, Mr. Hopson had an order for one hun-
dred large cheeses, eighty colored and twenty .white. The order was com-
pleted on the 12th of October. These cheeses weighed three hundred and
thirty pounds each, and a handsomer lot could not well be got together. I
tested a large number of cheeses in the curing-room, and found them uniformly
very meaty, and of clean and delicate flavor. Something of their character
may be indicated from the fact that twenty-two cents per pound was offered
by a purchaser in our presence for the lot of large cheese, the highest market
rates at Little Falls at that time being nineteen cents.
30
466 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
About two miles east of Salisbury Center is another " fancy factory," the
" Herkimer County," or " Avery & Ives " — giving tlie name of the proprie-
tors. This is an old factory, and the manufacturer, Mr. E. B. Fairchild has
been here seven years. Mr. Fairchild is, without doubt, one of the best
cheese manufacturers in the State. His cheese stands high amono- the " fan-
cies." He follows the coarse curds process, though not precisely in the steps
of Mr. HopsoN. His cheese is very solid, meaty and fine-flavored. An old
cheese-dealer and noted expert remarked to me, on the day of my visit, that
probably nothing finer could be found in the State than the lot of cheese then
on the shelves at the Avery & Ives factory.
The factory takes the milk of six hundred cows, and the receipts on
October 23d were five thousand pounds, and made into nine cheeses, which
weighed sixty-five pounds each ; in shape, Cheddars, being pressed in fourteen
and a-half inch hoops. The establishment is in two buildings, the making
department being thirty by thirty feet, and the dry house one hundred by
thirty-six feet, two stories high. The milk is set at 80°, the highest heat in
scalding 100°. The curds are cut coarse, somewhat similar to Mr, Hopson's
at Cold Creek, and the time of heating and extreme care in handling the
curds are also similar; but the salting is not so high, the rate in summer
being three pounds, and in fall two and eight-tenths pounds salt to one hun-
dred pounds curd.
Mr. Fairchild thinks the fine texture of his cheese results in a great
measure from having the milk in perfect condition at the commencement of
operations and then employing heat slowly, manijjulating the curds in the
gentlest manner, and finally, accuracy in developing the degree of acidity.
During cool weather in the fall, sour whey is added with the rennet to the
milk, at the rate of two pails whey for four hundred gallons of milk. He
thinks coarse curds make a more meaty cheese and produce a larger quan-
tity of cheese from a given quantity of milk than fine curds. Acid is devel-
oped in the vat with the whey rather than in the sink, and from long practice
and close watching, he is able to detect the changes from time to time very
accurately. The practice at other factories might be given, but these described
will suffice, it is believed, for all practical pui-poses.
making cheese prom a small number of cows.
If there happen to be three or four neighbors similarly situated, that is,
each having but two or three cows, it will be a good plan for all to join
together, delivering a certain quantity of milk daily at some central neigh-
bor's house, where the cheese is to be made. There will be no very great
trouble in this, and by assisting each other, all may be supplied. As the
labor in manufacture will be no more for ten pails of milk than for four, and
as the cheese can then be made up at once, it will be advisable to associate
together whenever practicable.
Ten pails of milk will make say twenty-five gallons, and the twenty-five
Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. 467
gallons will give a cheese of twenty pounds, and perhaps a trifle over. If
the milk is worked in the manner I have described, the curds may be pressed
in a hoop eleven inches in diameter and about the same hight. Small cheeses
of this kind need not be bandaged. After coming from the hoop, they should
be oiled over with a little fresh butter to prevent the rind from checking, and
may be placed upon the shelf. They will need turning every day, giving the
surface a smart rubbing with the hand, which will prevent the cheese flies
from securing a safe deposit of their eggs. If the rind of the cheese gets
dry, it will be well to oil again with fresh butter. If j^roperly cared for the
cheese will begin to be mellow in four or five weeks, and will be eatable,
though age will improve it, and when six months old it should be of delicious
flavor and quality if well made.
DOUBLE CUEDS.
But if the quantity of milk is too small to make a curd for one pressing,
then resort may be had to what is termed double curds. These are managed
after the following manner : The milk is .treated precisely as if there was
sufficient for a cheese. After the curds have been drained and slightly salted
and are ready for the hoop, they are set aside in a cool place in the cellar
until next day. Then, after the next curds are ready, the previous day's
curds are treated with warm whey, so that they may be broken up, when they
are drained and the two days'' curds are thoroughly mingled together and
salted. They are then put to press, and will unite together the same as if
they had been a " one day's cheese."
I have seen some most excellent cheese made in tliis way, cheese as fine in
flavor and quality as one could wish to see. Sometimes curds are kept in this
way three days, or more, until a sufficient quantity has accumulated to make
a cheese of the desired size. In this way cheese can be made when only one
cow is kept.
GRAFTING THE CURDS.
There is another way of managing the curds, called grafting. As soon as
the curds are ready they are put to press. The next day the hoop is taken
oflf and a thin scale taken from the top of the cheese with a sharp knife, and
the fresh surface made rough with a fork. The top rind and the upper edges
being pared off" the parings are broken up and warmed by the addition of
whey. They are then mingled Avith the new curds and placed in the hoop on
top of the previous day's cheese and put to press. The two days' curds will
adhere, and in this way small quantities of milk may be utilized in cheese-
making. Grafted cheese should always be bandaged, for unless the whey is
very thoroughly drained from the curds, the two sections or grafts sometimes
will not adhere so firmly as the parts where they are not joined. It is a good
plan in grafting cheese, after paring off" the rind as I have described, to cut
across the cheese two or three times, taking out a small triangular strip.
Some people after paring the rind and cutting across as above, make the
468
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
upper surface also rough by scraping with the point of a knife or fork, Tliis
is done for the purpose of giving the new curds a stronger hold on those of
the previous day.
MAKIJ^G CHEESE WITHOUT PKOPEE APPAKATUS AND PIXTUKES.
Sometimes the farmer who keeps only a few cows to supply his family
with milk and butter, would like also to make a few cheeses for family use ;
he does not care to make cheese to sell, and therefore hardly feels able to
purchase cheese apparatus and fit up a dairy-house after the most approved
models ; this he thinks would cost more than to purchase his supply of cheese
in the market. But it often happens that where this state of things exists,
the money cannot be spared for buying cheese, and so this luxury is dis-
pensed with at the family table.
Let us see now, how cheaply we can arrange for a primitive dairy. If
nothing better is at hand, a common wash-tub, clean and sweet, will answer
the pui'pose for setting the milk and working the curds. A hoop must be had
from the cooper. Let it be ten inches in diameter, top and bottom, by twelve
inches high, and fitted with a follower.
A PRIMITIVE PRESS.
A very good press may be made in a few hours from a twelve-foot plank,
and a few pieces of scantling. About a foot from either end of the plank
THE OLD-FASHIONED LOS CHEESB PRESS.
set up two short pieces of scantling four and a-half inches apart. Fasten
them firmly to the plank with bolts or pins. The lever may be a joist, four
by four, or four by six, and fourteen feet long. One end is secured by a pin
passing through the uprights at one end of the plank, and it is to move freely
up and down between the uprights at the other end. A weight hung at one
end of the lever and you have a press that will do good service.
The weights at the end of the long lever are a stone or two from the
field. There may be another lever arranged for raising the long lever or
press-beam, without removing the weights, which are stationary. We give
an illustration of an old-fashioned log press.
The hoop is placed near the stationary end of the press-beam, and blocks
put upon the follower, the press-beam let down upon them, and in this way
the cheese is pressed. A long, thin wooden knife will do for cutting the curds.
A gallon of good milk (wine measure) will make nearly a pound of cheese.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 469
the process.
Your milk having been placed in the tub, and the number of gallons
known, a portion may be taken out and heated in pans over a common stove.
The pan holding the milk should be set in another pan holding water or over
a kettle containing water, so as not to scorch or burn the milk in the pan.
Heat the milk and pour into the tub, till the mass indicates a temperature of
85*. Then add a quantity of rennet (which has been previously prepared
by steeping the dry skins or rennet in water), sufficient to coagulate the milk,
say in forty or fifty minutes. Now put your finger into the curd, raise it
slowly, and if it readily splits apart the mass is ready to cut into blocks with
the curd knife. After cutting into checks two inches square, let it remain at
rest ten to fifteen minutes for the whey to form. Then carefully break with
the hands by lifting up the curds very gently, and when the mass has been
gone over, let it rest for ten or fifteen minutes for the curd to subside.
Now dip oif a portion of the whey into the pans, and heat on the stove in
the same manner that the milk was warmed. In the meantime continue
breaking, by gently lifting the curd, until the particles of curd are about
the size of small chestnuts or large beans. Then pour in the warm whey and
continue heating and adding the warm whey until the mass indicates a tem-
perature of 98°. Do not be in a hurry, but take things leisurely, continuing
the breaking or stirring the curds while heat is being applied. It may noAV
be left at rest for half an hour and then stirred, so that the particles may not
pack or adhere together in the tub, and this treatment continued until the
curd has a firm consistency. Take up a handful and press it together in the
hand, and if on opening the hand it readily falls to pieces, it is about ready
for draining. Throw a cloth strainer over the tub and dip ofi" the whey down
to the curd. Then put the strainer on a willow clothes basket and dip the
curd into it to drain. It may now be broken up with the hands, and when
pretty dry may be salted in the basket or returned to the tub for salting.
Salt at the rate of four to four and a-half ounces of salt to ten pounds curd;
mix it thoroughly and put to press. After remaining from two to four hours
in press, turn and put to press again, leaving it under pressure till next
morning, when it may be removed to the shelf. Very small cheeses need not
be bandaged. They should be rubbed over with a little fresh butter, melted
and applied warm, or with oil made from the cream that rises from the
whey. They should be turned and rubbed daily until well ripened.
THE CHEESE ELY.
Most dairymen understand pretty well the habits of the cheese fly ; many,
however, do not understand how to provide against its depredations. Some
people profess to be fond of a skippery cheese, and regard it as an index of
what the English understand as a "cheese full of meat" — that is, rich in
butter. And it must be confessed that the cheese fly has a great partiality
for the best goods in the curing house. They do not so readily attack your
470 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
" white oak " and skim milk varieties, hence the notion that cheese infested
with the fly is rich in butter is not far out of the way.
The primary cause of skippery cheese, of course, is want of care. Cheese
in hot weather should be closely examined every day ; they require to be
turned once a day to facilitate the curing process ; the bandages and sides are
to be rubbed at the time of turning, in order to brush off or destroy any nits
of the fly which may happen to be deposited about the cheese. If there are
cracks in the rind, or if the edges of the bandage do not fit snugly, they
should at once be attended to, since it is at these points that the fly is most
likely to make a safe deposit of its eggs.
riLLISTG UP THE CBACKS.
The cracks and checks in the cheese should be filled up with particles of
cheese that have been crushed under a knife to make them mellow and plastic.
When once filled, a strip of thin, tough paper, oiled and laid over the repaired
surface will serve as a further protection of the parts. The cheese in the
checks soon hardens and forms a new rind. Deep and bad looking checks may
be repaired in this way, so as to form a smooth surface, scarcely to be dis-
tinguished from the sound parts of the cheese. It is a great mistake to send
cheese that have deep checks or broken rinds to market ; for in addition to
their liability to be attacked by the fly, they have the appearance of being
imperfect, and are justly regarded Avith suspicion.
CUKING-KOOM KOT TO BE DARK.
Some dairymen think that a darkened curing-room is best for cheese, and
at the same time is the best protection against the fly ; I think this is a mis-
take ; cheese cures with the best flavor when it is exposed to light, and
besides, it can be examined more minutely from time to time and freed from
any depredation of the skipper. August and September are generally the
worst months in the year to protect cheese against the attacks of the fly.
Some years the trouble is greater than others, and various means have been
resorted to for the purpose of avoiding the pest, such as rubbing the cheese
over with a mixture of oil and cayenne pepper, &c. These things generally
do not amount to much, and are not to be recommended ; the best protection
is cleanliness, sharp eyes and a good care of the cheese. Whenever a lodge-
ment of skippers has been made they must at once be removed ; sometimes it
will be necessary to cut into the cheese and remove the nest with a knife, but
if the colony is young and small in numbers, a thick oiled paper, plastered
over the affected part so as to exclude the air, will bring the pests to the
surface, when they may be removed ; the oiled paper should again be returned
to its place and the skippers removed from time to time till all ai-e destroyed.
WASHING THE TABLES AND EANGES.
If skippers begin to trouble the cheese, the best course to be adopted is
to commence at once and wash the ranges, or tables on which the cheese are
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 471
placed, with hot whey ; this will remove all accumulation of grease or nits
about the ranges, giving a clean surface, which does not attract the flies. If
the cheese also is washed in the hot whey and rubbed with a dry cloth, the
labor of expelling the trouble from the curing-rooms will be greatly facilitated.
Keep the curing-room clean and sweet ; see that the cheeses have a smooth
rind, that the bandages are smoothly laid at the edges ; turn and rub the
cheese daily, and there need be no trouble from the cheese fly.
PAINTED CHEESE.
There are several kinds of foreign fancy cheeses that are peculiar in having
their sides painted with a dark brown or red color. The double Gloucester
or North Wilts, the small loaf and truckle shapes, and the Edams, are of this
character. In the old process of curing the double Gloucester the cheese is
rubbed with finely powdered salt, and this is thought to make the cheese
more smooth and solid than when the salting process is performed in the
curd. After the cheese has been in the curing-room and turned every day for
a month or so, it is cleaned of all scurf and rubbed with a woolen cloth,
dipped in a paint made of Indian red, or Spanish brown and small beer.
After the paint is dry the cheese is rubbed once a week with a cloth. The
Edam or Dutch cheese is colored on the outside, when ready for market, with
what is called tournesal, the juice of a plant {Croton tinctorium) which grows
wild in France. Rags are saturated in this juice and then exposed to the
vapor arising from lime mixed with urine, which gives them a violet color.
The cheeses are rubbed over with these tournesal rags, which gives them the
peculiar glowing red with which they appear in market.
A friend, who makes small fancy cheeses in imitation of English, and
which sell for a high price, makes a paint for coloring the rinds of the cheese
of the following: — Sharp, sour whey, salt, Venetian red and burnt umber.
The Venetian red and umber are added to the whey, so as to make a mixture
of the consistency of paint and of the shade desired, and when the cheeses are
ready for market the rinds are painted over and allowed to dry. He says
that this mixture holds its place and color on the cheese without flaking off,
and is altogether better than the English mixture made of beer and Indian
red. No bandage is used upon cheese treated with this coloring matter.
USE OF SALTPETEE.
The use of saltpeter in cheese manufacture has been long employed in
some of the dairy districts of England. It is claimed by those who use salt-
peter for this purpose that it helps preserve the flavor of cheese, improving
also the keeping qualities of the goods. I am unable to say how this may be,
never having made any direct expei'iments in my own dairy as a test. Salt-
peter is used extensively in curing meats, and most people understand some-
thing of its effects when employed for this purpose. I do not understand that
saltpeter has ever been used to any great extent in American cheese manu-
facture, but I am informed by an old and distinguished cheese factory manager
472 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
at Oneida that it has been used at his factory with the best results. The
manner of preparing it for use is as follows: — Take from three to three and
a-half pounds saltpeter and reduce it to a powder. This will be sufficient for
one barrel of salt, best factory filled. Now spread the salt on a clean floor
and sprinkle over with the powder as evenly as jDOSsible, and mix thoroughly
by shoveling it over. It may then be repacked in the barrel and it is fit for
use. When the curds are to be salted use the usual quantity by weight of
the compound as you would of salt, if that alone was to be employed. I have
seen small quantities of saltpeter added to salt for preserving butter with
good results, and it is possible that saltpeter used for preserving cheese in
the way described may be of some advantage.
BAD FLAVOR.
It is very difficult to point out the cause of bad flavor in cheese without
seeing the cheese and knowing all the details in manufacture, together with
the condition of jjastures, care of stock, water, &c. There are a great many
things that affect flavor in cheese, and of all the months in the year June and
July are the most trying to the cheese-maker. Much of the July cheese is
often out of flavor, and manufacturers are often at a loss to account for it.
Cheese that is well made will take on a taint and get out of flavor by being
kept in a badly ventilated and ill-contrived curing-room. Cheese in curing
needs air and a uniform temperature not higher than 15'^. Some cheese-
rooms are excessively warm and close in hot weather, and the fermenting or
curing powers are carried on too rapidly.
Scurfy cheese show that there has been fault in manufacture. If it pro-
ceeds from whey oozing out, forming a kind of gummy, sticky substance on
the sides, the curds have not been properly matured in the vat. The cheese
when taken from the press to the table ought not to leak whey. Sometimes
a mold or scurf forms on cheese from damp weather, when the cheese is not
properly rubbed daily. The scurf should be removed and the cheese " slicked
up " before sending to market.
POISON CHEESE.
During a visit to St. Lawrence county a prominent cheese dealer of that
county called my attention to a case of cheese poisoning which had come
under his observation : — A lot of cheese had been purchased from a dairyman
of that county by the dealer referred to, and having been shipped by him and
placed upon the market, a complaint was instituted that the cheese proved to
be poisonous. No deaths, it is true, came from eating the cheese, but the
persons who ate of it were taken suddenly ill with pains and cramps and
excessive vomiting, showing evident indications that they had been poisoned.
It was an easy matter of course to trace the source of this illness to the
cheese of a particular daii-y, and immediately a thorough investigation was
inaugurated to discover the origin of the trouble. On an examination of the
dairy where the cheese was made nothing unusual was found in the manner
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 473
of manufacture, or in the appliances used in cheese making. The cheese had
been made in the ordinary tin vat, and all the processes of manufacture were
similar to those in common practice in the country. Due regard had been
exercised as to cleanliness ; no known poisons had been employed about the
premises, and it had become evident to the parties investigating that the
poison, if any, in the cheese, must have come from the salt, the annatto, or in
some way of which the cheese maker or his family were not cognizant, or
indeed to be blamed.
Samples of the cheese were also forwarded to Prof. jACKSoisr of Boston
for analysis ; and having been submitted to a rigid examination by this emi-
nent chemist, the opinion was further confirmed that the dairyman was
blameless in the matter. Dr. Jackson states in regard to the analysis of this
cheese as follows : — " Each and all of the samples were entirely free from any
tone poisons. There are no metal or mineral poisons of the kind present, nor
any alkaloids or deleterious vegetable princij^les. But there is a small pro-
portion of offensive putrefying animal matter wliich has been separated here
that does not belong to good clieese. It is impossible to give this impurity
any correct name, and it is only an opinion of mine that it comes from the
rennet used. It is not poisonous, although it occasions vomiting in dogs and
cats, and small portions of it may be taken into the human stomach with-
out effect."
The facts elicited in this analysis of Dr. Jackson correspond in some
respects with those discovered a few years since by Dr. Voelckee, and from
which it would appear that cheese, as Avell as other kinds of animal food,
under certain conditions of decay, generates a peculiar organic poison ; but
what the composiiion of this virulent poison is the chemists are as yet unable
to determine. Dr. Voelckeb stated to me that instances had come under
his observation where this poison in cheese had become dissipated as the
cheese passed into a further state of fermentation and decomposition, and that
the cheese could then be safely eaten, producing no injurious or unpleasant
effects. In his report upon this subject to the Royal Agricultural Society, a
case is mentioned somewhat similar to that referred to in St. Lawrence
county, and as it details more fully the nature of this peculiar poison than the
statement of Dr. Jackson, it will be of interest perhaps to present it in this
connection.
Without going into a history of the particular dairy or the various cases
of poisoning, it will be sufficient to say that quite a number of people were
taken ill after partaking of the cheese, and that samples of the cheese causing
the illness were forwarded to Dr. Voelcker for examination. This cheese,
he says, presented nothing in appearance which could be regarded as an indi-
cation of its spoiled condition or unwholesome quality. The taste was sharp,
peculiar and quite different from the rich and pungent taste of well-ripened
old cheese ; but it was not sufficiently characteristic of its unquestionably
poisonous properties. He says : — " Having analyzed at different times cheese
474 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
which produced bad effects when taken in any quantity, I cautioned my
assistants not to take too much of it, and invited them to taste the cheese
sent. Certain chemicals, which are sometimes put into cheese, can to a cer-
tain extent be recognized by the peculiar taste which they impart. I tasted
it myself, and although I took a piece only the size of a hazel nut, I felt its
effects four hours after having tasted it. Both my assistants, who had taken
no more at the most than a quarter of an ounce each, five hours afterward
were violently attacked with vomiting and pain in the bowels ; one of them
was ill all night, and scarcely able to follow his usual work next day. Both
complained of a nasty mercurial taste, which seemed to remain with them
for many hours after partaking of the cheese.
" On a former occasion I found sulphate of zinc or white vitriol in a cheese
which caused sickness, and in another instance I detected in cheese sul^^hate
of coj)per. My attention, therefore, naturally was directed to search for
metallic poisons ; but though carefully operating on large quantities, I failed
to detect even traces of zinc, copper, mercury, antimony, arsenic, or any of
the metallic poisons which might possibly have imparted injurious properties
to the cheese. Having failed to detect any mineral poison I next directed
my attention to the examination of the organic constituents : the quantitative
general analysis gave the following results :
Water 37.88
Organic constituents 58.04
Mineral 4.08
Total / 100.00
Containing salt 1.33
" The proportion of water in this cheese was rather large, considering
that it must have been cut for some time, and have lost water by evaporation.
On further examining it I found it remarkably sour, and had no difficulty in
detecting an unusually large quantity of fatty acids, which if not poisonous
themselves are the vehicle conveying the peculiar organic poison which
appears to be generated sometimes in cheese undergoing a peculiar kind of
fermentation.
'^ Probably the poison generated in this modified decay of cheese is iden-
tical with the so-called sausage poison, which is sometimes found in German
sausages, especially those made of coagulated blood, A similar poison
appears to be generated sometimes in pickled salmon, smoked sprats, pork,
tainted veal, bacon and hams. Bacon and hams when not properly cured,
and fat meat, kept in a damp, badly-ventilated cellar, are very apt to become
more or less injurious to health, and even butter after it has turned rancid ;
and similar organic matters are liberated in it, which exist in this cheese in a
free state, acts as a poison in most cases. Singularly enough, some people
are not affected by these subtle organic poisons.
"The poison of cheese was known in Germany as long ago as 1820, and
probably even earlier. A great deal has been written on the subject, but we
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 475
are yet as far as ever from knowing the composition of this virulent
poison."
Dr. VoELCKEK further states that cases of poisoning by cheese, in which
no mineral poison can be detected, occur much more frequently than is gene-
rally supposed. And it appears that cheese kept in damp, badly-ventilated
places, or where too much whey is left, or indeed, all the circumstances which
tend to produce a too acid curd, and to generate fatty acids are apt to pro-
duce this peculiar poison.
Dr. VoELCKEE regrets that we have no means of detecting this invidious
poison, which, in a great many cases, has produced fatal results ; and he
remarks that, what is indeed strange, j^oisonous cheese of this character when
kept until it becomes quite decayed loses its poisonous properties and becomes
harmless.
Poisonous cheese always exhibits a strong acid reaction when tested with
litmus paper. A slight acid reaction marks all fresh cheese, but while the
outside of good old cheese is ammoniacal, the outside of cheese in which this
poison occurs is acid.
SCHWEITZER KASE.
The large element of foreign population now among us, and more espe-
cially that from the German States, has introduced a demand for certain arti-
cles which a few years ago were almost unknown in many parts of the country.
It is but natural that foreign tastes should thus creep in upon us by degrees,
and become more or less adopted by our native population. The Schweitzer
Kase and Limberger cheese, a few years ago were imported, and perhaps are
to some extent at the present time, but their manufacture now having been
established in this country, there is no necessity for such importation. Such
cheese can be made here of equal quality with the imported article, and can
be afforded also at less cost.
I have frequently had occasion to compare our Schweitzer Kase, or Swiss
cheese with the foreign article, and in the presence of good judges, who
pronounced the American quite equal in quality and peculiar flavor to the
foreign manufacture. Swiss cheese when eaten before it has acquired that
strong, rank flavor which is deemed essential, or at least seems to suit the
taste of a majority of foreigners, is very palatable, and many Americans who
have been accustomed to eat of it, grow fond of it, and prefer it to our best
grades of Cheddars.
A few years since I visited a factory in Oneida Co., erected for the pur-
pose of making Swiss cheese, and \vhere a very superior article was produced.
The manager here was a Swiss cheese-maker, and the arrangements and
machinery of the establishment were after the most approved Swiss pattern.
In the proper curing of Swiss cheese a room in which a low, even tempera-
ture can be secured is requisite, hence a cellar basement of stone is deemed
important for a good curing-room. The factory referred to was erected for
manufacturing milk from about two hundred cows. The building is about
476 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
eighty-four feet long by thirty-four feet broad, and is placed upon a side-hill
so as to have a stone basement or cellar, some eight feet high and extending
under the entire upper structure, which is of wood.
The cheeses are pressed in two sizes — the one thirty-two inches, and the
other twenty-eight inches in diameter, but both are uniformly but five and
a-half inches thick. The larger-sized cheese will weigh when cured some-
where near a hundred pounds, and the curing process will require at least
three months.
The milk is made up fresh from the cow, that is, the morning's and even-
ing's mess separately. As soon as the morning's milk is received it is turned
into a large copper kettle, hanging upon a crane which swings over the fire
in a broad, old-fashioned fire-place. When the temperature of the milk indi-
cates 81® the rennet is added. After the milk has coagulated a circular wire-
breaker attached to a long handle is introduced, the curd broken up, and the
whole mass stirred with the breaker. The kettle is now swung over the fire
and the stirring kept up until the mass indicates a temperature of 120° to
125°, when it is moved back on the crane from the fire into the room, and
the stirring continued for half an hour longer, or until the curd is sufficiently
cooked. This is indicated by its firm and elastic condition, similar to curd
properly " cooked " in ordinary cheese-making.
A cloth strainer is now introduced under the curd, the ends of the cloth
brought together, when the mass is lifted out of the kettle, leaving the whey
behind. It is then immediately put to press and remains in press about two
hours, when it is taken out of press and plunged in cold water. Here it
remains for two hours or more, or until thoi'oughly cooled, when it is
returned again to the press, where it remains four or five hours.
In pressing, light, adjustable hoops, made of thin strips of elm wood, are
used. They are arranged with cords upon the ends, so that the size of the
hoop may be contracted or expanded at pleasure. On removing the cheese
from the press to the curing-room, these hoops are kept upon the cheese, and
serve in l-ieu of bandages.
No salt is used in the curd at the time of making as is usual in other styles
of cheese, but the salt is applied in the curing-room ; here dry salt in small
quantities is daily sprinkled over the cheese during the space of three months,
and after that they are treated with salt every other day. Every two or three
days during the curing process the cheeses are washed with brine, which
serves to remove any mold that may be inclined to form or adhere to the rinds.
These are briefly the main features in the process. The cheese, while
curing, appears to be more elastic, and will not readily break and fall to
pieces as that made in the ordinary way. When well made they are mellow
and rich, and of a sweet, delicate flavor if eaten before they acquire age.
They are quite porous, which is esteemed a mark of good quality. After
getting age they are apt to take on a peculiar rank flavor, which nevertheless
is regarded as delicious by those who have acquired a taste for it.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 477
Good Swiss clieese usua,lly brings an advanced price over the best grades
of factory cheese as usually manufactured, which, I suppose, is on account
of the small quantity made, and the supply being kept within the demand.
PINE-APPLE CHEESE.
So far as the manipulation of milk, and the treatment of curds are con-
cerned, the making of pine-apple cheese does not differ materially from that
of cheese commonly made at factories. The diamond-like impressions on the
rind, by which it is made to resemble somewhat, the scales on the pine-apple
fruit, are produced by the meshes of the net in which the cheese is sustained
to cure. The main features in the manufacture consist of the molds and nets
which give the desired shape and appearance to this style of cheese.
The molds are capable of holding from six to ten pounds of curd. The
mold is formed of four scantling, four or five inches square, by scooping out
"one corner of each in the right shape, and placing them together. The tim-
bers are long enough to alloAV a neck six or seven inches long, and three or
more in diameter, to be grooved from the same corners, and when they are
put together the curd is put into the mold through this neck, the neck also
being filled with curd pressed in. The separate pieces of timber are bolted
firmly together two and two, thus leaving it in two parts. These two parts
are held firmly together by a hoop of strap iron tightened by wedges. When
the cheese is to be taken out, the wedges are loosened, the hoop slipped ofi"
and the mold taken apart. The pressure is applied by any press, provided
with a follower that will fit the neck, into which it is forced, and the whey
escapes at the joining of the molds, which open a little by the pressure. The
cheese-cloth is used the same as in the common hoop, though it should be
pressed hard for a while to obliterate the impressions of the folds in the
cloth. The follower should be a little concave at the bottom and force the
curd down to a level with the curd in the mold. The whey should be
entirely removed, and the cheese rendered as compact as possible.
To eifect this a follower sharpened in the form of a bodkin at the lower
end, long enough to reach near the bottom of the mold, should be forced into
the cheese immediately after the curd has been somewhat compacted by the
follower, and the orifice filled up with new curd, if there is not enough already
in the mold to fill it.
After it has remained in press a sufficient length of time it is removed,
and a net is placed upon it similar to a cabbage net, knit with meshes half to
three-fourths of an inch square, when they are suspended by the tightening
cord to hooks driven into the wall or other place for the purpose. "When
thoroughly dried they should be smeared with sweet whey butter. After
hanging long enough to get their shape confirmed, the net is removed and
they are set upon the large end upon trenchers until perfectly cured. During
the whole process of curing they are to be rubbed as often as necessary to
give them a fair skin and keep away insects.
1
478 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
The molds are sometimes made of blocks of oak timber, about twenty-
inches long and ten inches square. They are sawed lengthwise through the
middle, and each half is carved or worked out in the shape of a pine-apple
one-half in each part. Then a groove is cut about two and a-half inches i
diameter, for passing the curd into the mold.
Some manufacturers, after taking the cheese from tlie press, trim them,'
and then put on the nets, hanging the cheese for a short tim.e in water of
120°. This is to soften the rind, that they may the better receive the impres-
sion of the net, which is done by taking them from the water while enveloped
in the nets, placing them in a frame and straining the nets tightly over them
by means of screws. They are then hung up as before described, to harden,
and finally, are set on shelves having suitable hollows or concavities for the
cheese to rest upon. The nets are made from flax twine, and will last seve-
ral years.
The labor and trouble of making pine-apple cheese is so much, that a large
price must be obtained in order to make its manufacture a paying business.
STILTON CHEESE.
Cheese of this character at present is of no commercial importance to
American dairymen. Still it is possible small quantities may in time be made
for home consumption. Stilton is made from the morning's mess of milk, to
which has been added the cream of the night's milk, in proportion of a quart
of cream for every ten quarts of milk. The milk and cream having been
nicely mingled together, is set for coagulation in a small tub in which there
has been previously arranged a linen strainer. The mass is set in the ordi-
nary way with rennet, and when coagulation is perfected the curd is cut
across in large checks, and without further breaking, is lifted gently into a
willow basket for the whey to escape. No heat, except the natural heat as it
comes from the cow, is used during the process. After the whey has sepa-
rated from the curd in the basket, as described above, the curd is carefully
placed in a hoop, and is then turned every three hours, say four or five times
during the day. No pressure is applied except its own weight, and it remains
in the hoop without cloth or bandage, being turned from day to day, as
before described, until sufficiently consolidated to hold together, when it is
taken out, and a bandage pinned about it, and then it goes upon the shelf to
cure. The hoop is seven inches in diameter and eight inches high; it is
pierced with holes, and it has two little followers fitting above and below the
cheese, each pierced with holes for the escape of the whey. Two " setters "
or covers with rims are also provided and pierced with holes, so that in turn-
ing the cheese all that is needed is to change ends without taking the cheese
from the hoop. No salt is used in the curds— its application being from the
outside after the cheese is taken from the hoop. The cheese is kept at a tem-
perature of about 70° for some time, and then is placed in a warm room for
the development of the blue mold, which is considered of prime importance.
Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 479
improving hard, dry cheese.
When a cheese which has been much salted and kept very dry, is washed
several times in soft water, and then laid in a cloth moistened with wine or
vinegar, it gradually loses its saltness, and from being hard and dry, becomes
soft and mellow, provided it be rich cheese. This simple method of improv-
ing cheese is worth knowing. It is generally practiced in Switzerland, where
cheeses are kept stored for many years, and if they were not very salt and dry
they would soon be the prey of worms and mites. A dry Stilton cheese may
thus be much improved.
COTTAGE, OR DUTCH CHEESE. •
Cottage cheese is in some sections called Dutch cheese or curds. It is the
curd of sour milk drained from the whey, pressed into balls or molded in
small fancy shapes, and eaten when fresh, or soon after it is made. Some
people are very fond of Dutch cheese or curds, and the process of manufac-
ture is so simple and so well known, that we suppose every " good house-
wife " is well posted in regard to its making.
The milk is allowed to sour and become loppered or thick, when it is
gently heated, which facilitates the separation of the whey. The curds are
then gathered up, salted, or otherwise, to suit the taste, and pressed in small
molds, or formed with the hand into suitable shape, when it is ready for the
table and may be used immediately. In cool weather, when milk does not
readily thicken, the sour milk may be put in a suitable vessel set in hot water
over the range. The milk is then stirred for a few minutes, when the whey
will begin to separate, and it is removed, and another batch may be treated
in the same manner.
In summer some use large cans, having a spiggot near the bottom; the
sour milk is placed in these cans, and allowed to stand in the sun to thicken.
The heat of the sun will be sufficient to separate the whey, which may then
be drawn off through the spiggot. The curds are then removed to "a sink
having a slatted bottom, over which a strainer cloth is placed. The curds
thrown upon this strainer cloth are soon drained of the whey, when it is ready
to be pressed into balls with the hand, or molded into forms.
Sometimes this kind of cheese is potted and left to decompose, and when
it has acquired a strong, villainous smell, it is regarded as most delicious by
those who have acquired a taste for eating it in this state. In some markets,
cottage or Dutch cheese finds a ready sale, and quite a profit is made by cer-
tain butter-makers, in turning their sour milk into this product.
POPULAR WEIGHTS, BOXING FOR MARKET, ETC., ETC.
I have referred, in another place, to the Cheddar shapes as the most popu-
lar for export. Cheese weighing from forty to sixty-five pounds are on the
whole the sizes most commonly made at the factories. For home consump-
tion the growing feeling is for smaller cheeses than those above-named. A
cheese of thirty pounds weight is a very desirable size for our home trade.
480 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
It is true the cost of manufacture may be greater, and the shrinkage is more,
still the consumer can afford to pay a better price for small-sized cheeses,
because of their convenience and less waste from decay and drying, incident to
large cheese, which must remain a longer time on hand before being consumed.
In boxing cheese, whether for export or the home trade, the greatest care
should be taken to have the packages well made, and wuth an extra band on
the lower edge. Cheese should never be sent to market until they have
properly ripened, and then they shoiild be placed in boxes that fit — boxes that
slip down easily over the cheese, but not so large as to allow " shaking," or
a movement from one side to the other in the box, nor in so small a package
as to prevent their being readily removed from the package M'ithout breaking
it. Good, substantial scale-boards should be placed on both sides of the
cheese, and no other material is so well adajDted to the purpose where cheese
is to be exported, or is to remain some time in the package during its transit
to market. For short distances heavy straw paper may be used, but care
should be taken not to pack with newspaper, as the moisture from the cheese
will reduce it to a pulp, giving the cheese a very bad appearance on removal
from the box.
When the cheese is in place the sides of the package should come ujd just
even with the top surface of the cheese. If it is below this surface the cheese
will be liable to be broken and marred about the edges. If the rim of the
box be a little higher than the cheese, it should be trimmed down after the
cheese is in the box with a sharp drawing-knife, and then covers that fit
closely should be adjusted. Sometimes the boxes are very imperfectly made,
with, loose-fitting covers that are liable to fall off in rolling the cheese from
the scales, or in moving from place to place. In such cases the covers are
sometimes tacked in place with nails, but when nails are used,. care should be
taken that they do not reach through the wood and into the cheese.
The boxes should be neatly branded with the name of the factory, or if
from farm dairies with the name of the dairyman, and for this purpose stencil
plates are most convenient, while the lettering makes a neater appeai'ance
than when the names are burned on with branding-irons.
BUTTER MANUFACTURE.
The question of butter-making has now become one of great importance.
In my tour through Great Britain I took some pains to examine this subject,
and comj)are butter-making abroad with our new system as inaugurated in
Orange County, N. Y. The system has proved a great success, is being
rapidly introduced in new districts, and has attracted attention not only in
this country, but in Europe.
There is no people, perhaps, on the face of the earth more fastidious about
their food than the better classes in London. Possessed of immense wealth,
they pay liberally for extra qualities of food, particularly the products of the
dairy. Good butter they will have at any cost. Their finest grades come
from the continent — Normandy, Holstein and the Channel Islands. It is
worth from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty shillings per
hundred weight, or say about thirty cents gold per pound, wholesale, while
Canadian, the only butter imported from America, sells for fifty-four to ninety
shillings per hundred weight, and Irish extra, from one hundred and eight to
one hundred and twelve shillings per hundred weight.
Their best butter formerly came from Ireland, but the complaint now is,
that Irish butter is too salt, and lacks the delicate flavor and aroma of that
which comes from the continent. Irish butter is usually packed in stout oak
firkins, securely headed. Normandy and Holstein butter is in small pack-
ages, flaring at the top, resembling the Orange County tub. It is excellent
in flavor and texture, very slightly salted, and of a rich golden color.
In England I saw butter made for the Queen's table, at the Royal
Dairy, near Windsor Castle. The milk is set in porcelain pans, resting on
marble tables. The walls, the ceiling and the floor of the milk room are of
china, and the arrangements for ventilation are the best that can be devised.
Fountains of water are constantly playing on all sides of the room, which
helps to maintain an even temperature. The churn is of tin and the butter
is worked with two thin wooden paddles. The whole establishment, from
the milk-room to the stables, is the most perfect specimen of neatness that
can be imagined. I need not say that the butter is excellent.
31
482 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
Cream of average richness, according to the analysis of Dr. Voelckek,
contains in one hundred parts :
Water, 64.80
Butter (pure fatty uialters), 25 . 40
Caseine and milk sugar, 7. 61
Mineral matters (ash), 2. 19
100.00
He says, that on an average one quart of good cream yields from thirteen to
fifteen ounces commercial butter. Occasionally cream is very rich ; thus Mr.
HoESBFALL statcs that a quart of cream in his dairy yielded one pound of
butter when the cows were out to grass, and no less than twenty-two to
twenty-four ounces when the cows were fed in the barn with rape cake and
other substances rich in oil.
The first portions of cream which rise are always thin, but rich in fat, a
fact that is explained by the circumstance that during milking and the subse-
quent agitation to which milk is exposed, a portion of the milk globules get
broken ; in consequence of which their light fatty contents, liberated from
the denser caseine shells, rise to the surface with greater facility, and
then occupy less room than the unbroken milk globules, which, on account of
their specific gravity, are more sluggish in rising. Generally speaking, cream
yields more butter when its bulk in proportion to that of the milk from which
it is taken is small, and vice versa.
The leading principles to be observed in butter-making, are cleanliness and
temperature. Experience has shown that a temperature of about 60°
and not higher than 65°, is most conducive to the rising of the cream glob-
ules, and the more uniformly the temperature can be kept at 60° through
winter and summer, the more readily the cream will be thrown up, while the
milk will be kept sweet, provided the dairy is dry and properly ventilated.
On no account should the temperature fall below 55°.
In cooling milk for butter-making this point is important. It must not be
imagined that the lower the temperature is allowed to sink, the more cream will
rise, for we must bear in mind that with the reduction of the temperature, the
specific gravity of the liquid is greater, and the rising of the cream or milk
globules checked accordingly. Every precaution as to habits of cleanliness and
the keeping from the milk and cream any article, plant, or impurity, which
can by any possibility communicate a taint should be rigidly adopted. The
pails and strainer should be washed [scalded with boiling water) and well
rinsed in cold water, and then sufifered to dry in the open air. Every article
connected with the dairy should be treated in a similar manner, as there
is nothing so prejudicial to new milk as being mixed with ever so small
a quantity of that which has become sour, and nothing so diflScult to
eradicate as the traces left in any vessel of that which has become stale
and decomposed.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 483
spoiling i2f the churn.
Perfectly good cream is often spoiled in the churn, when the dairymaid
has been negligent in properly cleansing it. "When the wood once absorbs
this milk taint it is very difficult to eradicate it by subsequent cleansing.
MANNER or CHURNING.
During the process of churning a certain uniformity of temperature must
be observed, or the butter will be soft and spongy instead of being firm and
compact. The agitation also of the cream should be regular — neither too
quick nor too slow. If the agitation is too quick the butter will make and
unmake itself before the churner is aware of it, as too rapid motion induces
fermentation, which, when it has reached a certain point is entirely destruc-
tive of anything like the possibility of making even moderately good or well
tasted butter. If, on the other hand, the motion be too slow, the agitators
in the churn fail to produce the desired separation of the component parts
of the cream ; and the consequence is, that after a good deal of time spent
in lazy action, the churner is just as far from his butter as he was at the
beginning of his labors. The best temperature for the cream in churning is
from 55° to 60°.
EXPERIMENTS IN TEMPERATURE.
Some years ago a series of carefully conducted experiments were made in
Scotland to determine the temperature at which butter can be best and easiest
obtained from the cream. The following table exhibits the mean temperature
of the cream used in each experiment :
1st experiment, cream stood at 57°
3d " " " eo''
3d " " " 62°
4lli " " " 66°
5Lli " " " 70°
The butter produced in the first experiment was of the very best quality,
rich, firm and well tasted. That produced in the second experiment was not
perceptibly inferior to the first. That produced in the third experiment was
more soft and spongy, and that produced in the fourth and fifth experiments,
decidedly inferior in every respect to any of the former specimens.
From these experiments it appears that cream should not be kept at a high
temperature in the process of churning, and the experimenters conclude that
the best temperature to commence the operation of churning is about 55°,
and at no time in the operation ought it to exceed 65° ; while on the con-
trary, if at any time the cream should be under 50°, the labor will be much
increased without any proportionate advantage being obtained.
CHARACTER OF GOOD BUTTER.
Mr. Stevens well remarks that when butter is properly churned both as
to time and temperature, it becomes firm with very little working, and is
tenacious, but its most desirable state is that of waxy, when it is easily
484 PRA.CTICAL Dairy Husbandry.
molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable length without
breaking. It is only in this state that butter possesses that rich, nutty flavor
and smell which imj)art so high a degree of pleasure in eating it, and which
enhance its value manifold. It is not always necessary to taste butter in
judging of it ; the smooth, unctuous feel in rubbing a little between the
finger and thumb, expresses at once its richness of quality ; the nutty smell
indicates a similar taste, and the bright, glistening cream-colored surface shows
its high state of cleanliness.
FKEEING rKOlI BUTTEEMILK, ETC.
When butter forms the churning should cease, and the mass be taken out and
cleansed from any buttermilk which may still be incorporated with it. The
best test that this has been satisfactorily performed is the fresh water running
from the butter as pure and bright as when poured over it. It should be
recollected that the less butter is handled the better. Warm hands, however
clean, are apt to impart a taint ; and the difficulty of keeping them so per-
fectly clean as is absolutely necessary, appears to be almost insurmountable.
The ladle and butter-workei', therefore, should be used in all the necessary
manipulations.
THE MODEEK METHOD OF MANAGING MILK
for butter-making is to have a spring house for setting the milk ; churning the
cream rather than the whole milk. It is true there are those who contend
that a fine quality of butter can be made by churning the " whole milk;" but
such butter is apt to have more of the caseine or cheesy particles of the milk
in its composition, than when the cream alone is churned ; and this caseine
will injure its keeping qualities.
It has been contended, too, that when the whole milk is churned more
butter is obtained than by setting the milk and churning the cream. If the
butter contains a considerable portion of the caseine of the milk, this would
readily explain the reason for the extra quantity claimed. But, however this
may be, those who make " fancy butter," and have had long experience in the
art, prefer to make their butter by churning the cream, and it is the course I
should recommend.
MILK-EOOM FOE FAEM DAIEIES.
For farm dairies the Ceoziee milk cellar would seem to be a very good
model, as the building can be erected at moderate expense. A committee of
the American Institute Farmers' club, consisting of Mr. J. B. Lyman and
Col. F. D. CuETis, visited this establishment, and their report upon it is as
follows : — " The walls are thirty-six by eighteen feet, and it is divided into
ice-house, milk-room and butter-kitchen. Two tubes or conductors go down
from the upper part of the ice-house. They are made of boards eight inches
wide and an inch thick, with many holes bored in them. The holes allow the
cold air to enter from the ice, and it pours in a stream from the mouth of
the tube into the milk-room. The temperature of the air as it comes out at
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 485
the mouth of the tubes is about 35°. As the milk-room has thick walls and
the windows are high this flood of air at 35° is able to lower the mercury to
62°, and even lower, in July. Sometimes he closes one tube to keep the
room from growing too cold. The draught is the strongest in the hottest
weather. In spring and fall there is little current, and in winter, when the
fire in the stove is constantly burning, the draught would be the other way.
But then the mouths of the ice-tubes are closed. By this arrangement the
desired temperature is secured the season through, and there is no difference
between the June butter and the January butter. He makes June butter the
year round. He gets ten cents per pound over the highest market price.
Making, say, two hvmdred pounds a week, his gain is |20 a week by having
the best arrangement for butter-making. Thus his milk-house pays for itself
every nine months, to say nothing of the greatly increased facilities for doing
work afforded by a pump, churn and stove so convenient. He consumes
about a ton of anthracite in the four coldest months, and a slight allowance is
to be made for wood used in summer to heat water for washing and scalding."
THE BEST TEMPEEATUEK FOE SETTING MILK
to get the cream is about 60° to 62°. The range of temperature should run
no higher than 65°. The butter-makers of Orange Co., N. Y., are of the
opinion that the best quality of butter is made from cream that has been
obtained at a temperature a little below 60°. Cream can be obtained in a
short time, and in large quantity by raising the milk to a temperature near
boiling and then setting aside to cool; but such cream has more of the
caseine or cheesy j)articles of the milk mingled with it than milk set without
the application of artificial heat, and the butter will be injured in its keeping
qualities.
COLOE AND TEXTUEE.
In butter-making it is important to have the butter come of a good color
and of a texture that is hard and has a waxy consistency, and that will
retain that peculiar aroma which imparts so much pleasure in eating it.
THE MODEEN MILK PAN.
When it is not convenient to have a spring-house, the best arrangement
with which I am acquainted for setting the milk is the Jennings jjan. It is
of tin and sets upoa a shallow wooden vat, which is to be filled with water
from the well or pen stock, as the case may be, and thus the milk is rapidly
divested of its animal heat, and a pretty even temperature maintained while
the cream is rising. These pans are of different sizes to accommodate differ-
ent sized dairies, and each one is intended to accommodate the entire mess of
milk from the herd at one milking. Four pans are all that are needed for a
dairy, or at least with that number of pans the milk maybe kept until thirty-
six hours old before skimming. After the pans have been once filled the
milk that has stood the longest is skimmed and drawn oflT, and is then ready
486
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
for the next milking. The age of the milk in the different pans from day to
day will be more readily seen by the following diagram :
Netv Milk.
Milk 12 hottks
OLD.
Milk 24 hours
OLD.
Milk 36 houes
OLD.
[3
Where a stream of cold water can be kept constantly flowing under the
pans, expensive milk-cellars can be dispensed with, and very good results
obtained in properly constructed rooms that are kept well ventilated. In the
Jennings pan the milk is set from three to four inches deep and there is an
arrangement of pipes for drawing off either the milk or water with conve-
nience. These pans are provided with gauze net-work covers to be used as
occasion requires for keeping out dust or flies. The general form of these
pans is represented in the subjoined illustration (Figure 1).
The Jewett pan is of very similar construction to the one just named,
except that the water underneath the milk is conducted in channels instead
of being spread out in a thin sheet as in the Jennings invention.
Mr. Jewett describes his apparatus as follows : — The illustration (see
FlGUEB 1.
figure 2) represents a full set of pans, arranged with fixtures necessary for
using them, for butter factories, or dairies large or small, by making them of
any size required ; for factories, as wide as can be conveniently skimmed from
the center, and long enough to obtain the required surface, it being perfectly
practical to make them large enough for one hundred and fifty cows ; for
more cows additional sets may be added. The way to use them is, put one
milking of the entire dairy into one pan, adjusting the faucet on the supply
pipe so as to use just water enough to extract the animal heat from the milk,
and keep it at the desired temperature while the cream is rising — from 60''
to 62° ; at the time the fourth is wanted for use the first will be ready to
skim ; then stop the water from running into the pan, and open the faucet
near the bottom of the pan, that a sufficient quantity of water may run out,
while the milk is skimmed and run off to enable the milk-maid to clean the
pan. The bottom of the pans being protected from the warm atmosphere in
Fravtical Dairy Husbandry.
48Y
the room by tlie tables on which they set, the inside bottom being covered with
milk, the means of cooling is hidden, yet it is done by keeping the milk cool
in a warm, dry room without cooling or dampening the room, which is to be
desired by butter-makers, thus reversing the process of carrying the milk to
a cool place, where the benefits to be derived are so intermingled with dele-
terious influences that it is a good illustration of the saying, you must take
the bitter with the sweet. This way of handling the milk in my pans, besides
reducing the labor more than one-half, enhances the net proceeds of the dairy,
both in quantity and quality of the butter, fully twenty per cent. With a
book of instructions any good tin-smith can make and set them up.
As given in the engraving, one of the series of pans, A A, is represented
as broken away to show the internal arrangement. These pans are provided
FlGUEE 2.
with a space, B, between their top and bottom walls. Within this space
are a number of compartments, communicating with each other at alternate
ends, in such a manner as to form one continuous channel, zigzag in its course,
having an inlet at a, through which warm or cold water, as needed, is
received ; such water, after flowing through the tortuous channel formed by
the partitions, being discharged at the outlet, h. At h is shown the opening
through which the overflow of water is discharged ; the object being to keep
the channel in the bottom of the pan quite filled while the water is flowing
through it. At c is shown a faucet through which all the water in the channel
can be drawn off.
These pans can be made to serve the double purpose of milk-coolers or
488 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
1
cream-raisers, the milk being kept at any temperature desired by raising or
lowering the temperature of the water flowing through the passages in the
bottom of the pan. When the cream has raised and has been skimmed, the
milk is then run off through the pipe, c?, which communicates with the main
discharge-pipe, F, which may be placed under the floor or not, as circum-
stances will permit ; or, if desired, the milk can be conveyed in movable
horizontal pipes from the pans into an adjoining room on the same floor. The
pipe seen attached to the side of the room and above the rows of pans is the
source of supply from which water is conducted to the base of the pans.
For cooling, the water is received from a spring or reservoir ; but for warm-
ing, from boilers or other appropriate apj)aratus.
THE CEEAM THAT PIEST RISES
is the best ; and to make choice butter, the cream should always be taken from
the milk before it becomes old and sour. The greater the decomposition of
the milk the more will the cream be affected, and as a consequence, the more
difficult will it be to obtain from it a nice quality of butter.
KEEPING QUALITIES.
Butter, to be good, must have some keeping qualities, for it cannot be
consumed from day to day as it is made. Well made butter, if properly
cared for, should retain its flavor and sweetness for months ; bat we cannot
expect to obtain such butter from cream that has been badly managed.
STRAINING THE CREAM.
Cream should have a uniform consistency, when it goes to the churn. If
portions of it are thick and mingled with hard, dry particles or " cream-
skins," the butter will contain " white caps," or be flecked throughout, giving
it not only a bad ajipearance, but injuring its quality. When cream is set
in shallow pans in. the old way, the butter is very liable to be thus affected.
The cream strainer here is of very great advantage, as it reduces the cream to
a like consistency in all its parts, breaking down the " skins " and jDreparing
the cream, so that in churning, the butter will come evenly. Baker's Excel-
sior Cream Strainer, illustrations of which we give in figures 3 and 4, is the
best that we have seen for the purpose, and gives valuable aid in the butter
dairy. Cream that has been raised in a temperature of 60° to 62°, should be
churned at about the same temperature. Butter-makers do not like to have
the cream churned afa temperature above 64°, as it injures the butter. If
the temperature fall below 55°, the labor of churning, as has been remarked,
will be prolonged. I do not believe in great haste in churning, or the shortest
time that cream can be turned into butter.
CHURNING TOO QUICK.
One often hears of churns in which it is claimed the butter will come in
" three minutes." It is possible that good butter may be got from the cream
in that time, but I have yet to be convinced that it can be done. That cream
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
489
can be churned into butter in three minutes I am aware, and although the
butter may be tolerable for present use, I have never been able to get a good
keepable article when the churning was done in so short a space of time.
The butter globules are inclosed or surrounded by thin pellicles of caseine.
In churning, these are broken and sej^arated from the oily particles. If the
churning is done rapidly the separation is imperfect, and hence we get an
article of butter in which there is too large a proportion of the shells of
caseine. It is the caseine and nitrogenized constituent of milk that is liable
to decomposition and which injures the flavor of butter.
COMPOSITION" OF BUTTER — INFLUENCE OF CASEINE SHELLS.
The philosophy or manner in which caseine injures the flavor of butter
has been well explained by Voelcker. He says : — " Butter consists mainly
of a mixture of several fats, among which palmitin, a solid crystalizable sub-
stance, is the most important. Palmitin, with a little stearine, constitutes
about sixty-eight per cent, of pure butter. Mixed with these solid fats are
FlGUBB 3.
FlGtJKE 4.
about two per cent, of odoriferous oils. The peculiar flavor and odor of butter
are owing to the presence of this small proportion of these peculiar oils, viz.,
butyrine, caproin and caprylin. In butter, as it comes upon our table, we find
besides these fatty matters about sixteen or eighteen per cent, of water ; one
to two per cent, of salt; and v,ariable small quantities of fragments of caseine
shells. The more perfectly the latter are removed by kneading under water,
the better butter keeps ; for caseine on exposure to the air in a moist state,
especially in warm weather, becomes rapidly changed into a ferment, whicli,
acting on the last-named volatile fatty matters of butter, resolves them into
glycerine and butyric acid, Cg Hg O4 ; caproic acid, C12 Hjg O4 ; and caprylic
acid C]6 H16 O4 . The occurrence of these volatile uncombined fatty acids in
rancid butter, not only spoils flavor, but renders it more or less unwholesome."
If all the shells of caseine could be separated from the butter, it could be
490 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
preserved readily without salt. Pure fat or oil is very easily kept sweet. In
some countries butter is melted and the impurities taken out by " trying " it
like lard. Of course butter treated in this way loses its aroma and texture,
but I mention the fact for the purpose of showing the principle to be observed
in obtaining butter of good keeping quality. In churning, I do not care to
have butter come sooner than from half to three-quarters of an hour. The
butter-makers of Orange Co., say that the churning process should occupy
from forty-five minutes to one hour. Their opinions are worthy of considera-
tion, because they make an article that is unrivaled in the market, and from
long and varied experience they ought to be able to settle this point definitely.
No one should attempt to make butter without .
USING A &OOD THEKMOMETEE,
especially in preparing the cream for churning. Old and experienced butter-
makers may guess at temperature pretty accurately, but the temperature of
the surrounding atmosphere varies so much from day to day, that no one can
be sure of being right, without an accurate instrument for determining the
degree of heat required in the cream to produce the best results.
MANAGEMENT EOK MAKING PHILADELPHIA BUTTER.
In the management for the noted " Philadelphia butter," the spring-house
is of stone, about eighteen feet wide and twenty-four feet long. Its founda-
tion is deeply set in a hill-side, its floor being about four feet below the sur-
face of the ground on the lower side. The floor of the spring-house is of oak,
laid on sand or gravel. The water is allowed to spread over this floor to the
depth of three or four inches, and the overflow passes to a tank outside the
building. Raised platforms or walks are arranged on the floor of the spring-
house for the purpose of moving about the room in handling the milk, etc.
The walls of the room are about ten feet high, arranged at the top with win-
dows, covered with wire gauze so as to give ventilation. Deep pans, of small
diameter, and well painted on the outside are used. They are provided with
bails, so as to be convenient in handling. The milk is strained into these
vessels to the depth of about three inches, and they are set directly upon the
oak floor, the water surrounding them to the depth of the milk, maintaining
a temperature of about 58°.
The milk sets here about twenty-four hours, when the cream is removed
and placed in deep vessels holding from ten to twelve gallons. As the tem-
perature of the room does not at any time rise above 58° or 59°, the cream
is kept at this temperature until it goes to the churn. In some establishments
there is a place in the spring-house, where the depth of water is eight or ten
inches, for the especial purpose of placing the pails of cream, and where they
are kept until the cream acquires a slightly acid taste, when it is ready for
churning. The essential feature in the management of milk, is to keep the
milk and cream near a temperature of 60°. And when a uniform tempera-
ture of this kind is preserved, the largest quantity of the best quality of
I
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
491
butter will be secured. The cliurning is usually performed twice a week,
though in some dairies which manufacture the "Philadelphia butter," the
cream is churned but once a week. In removing the cream from the milk the
Orange Co, plan is to use a funnel-shaped cup, with a long handle, dipping
off the cream until the blue milk makes its appearance. In the Pennsylvania
plan the skimming is done Avith a concave tin scoop, perforated with small
holes. The churning is usually done by horse-poAver at the large establish-
ments, and the temperature of the cream when the churns are set in motion,
is about 62°, and just before the butter comes, cold milk or a pail of cold
water is thrown into the churn.
The churn is of barrel shape, revolving on a journal at each head. The
churning occupies nearly an hour, and after the buttermilk is drawn off cold
water is added and a few turns given to the churn, and the water is then
drawn off. This is repeated until the water as it is drawn off is nearly free
from milkiness. The butter is worked Avith butter-workers, a dampened cloth
meanwhile being pressed upon it to absorb the moisture and free it of traces of
butter-milk. The cloth is frequently dipped in cold spring-Avater and Avrung
dry during the process of Aviping the butter. It is next salted at the rate of
an ounce of salt to three pounds of butter, thoroughly and evenly incorpo-
rated by means of the butter-worker. It is then removed to a table where it
is Aveighed out and put up into pound prints. After this it goes into large tin
trays, and is set in the Avater to harden, remaining until next morning, Avhen it
is Avrapped in damp cloths and placed upon shelves, one above another, in the
tin-lined cedar-tubs, Avith ice in the compartments, and then goes immediately
to market. Matting is draAvn over the tub and it is surrounded again Avith
oil cloth so as to keep out the hot air and dust, and the butter arrives in mar-
ket in prime condition, commanding not unfrequently from seventy-five cents
to one dollar per pound.
PHILADELPHIA BUTTER PAIL.
The following cuts (Figures 5, 6 and 7), illustrate the butter pail and
manner of packing for market. Figure 5 shows the general form of the tub,
FiGimE 5.
FiGTIRB 6.
Figure 7.
the top or cover opening in halves. Figure 6 is a cross section showing the
shelf with the butter prints arranged in place with sections of ice at the ends.
Figure 7 is a perpendicular section, showing the ice chamber and ice at the
sides, and the shelves of butter one above the other in the center. Ice is
492
Practical Dairy Rusbajvbry.
Praciical Dairy Husbandry.
493
sometimes broken up and added to reduce the temperature, but the Orange
Co. dairymen think a too free use of ice is apt to injure the keeping qualities
of the butter.
THE AMERICAN SYSTEM OF BUTTEK-MAKING
rests mainly upon six great principles : — 1st. Securing rich, clean, healthy
milk ; milk obtained, if possible, on rich, old pastures, free from weeds. 2d.
Setting the milk in an untainted, well-ventilated atmosphere, and keeping it
at an even temperature while the cream is rising. 3d. Proper management
in churning. 4th. Washing out or otherwise thoroughly expelling the butter-
milk, and working so as not to injure the grain. 5th. Thorough and even
incorporation of pure salt, and packing in oaken tubs, tight, clean and well
made. 6th. Cleanliness in all the operations is of important necessity, while
judgment and experience in churning the cream and making the butter
must, of course, be had.
( mT£nPIPE.ZOIl\I.BELOmSURF/!C£.
FiGUEE 9. Gkoukd Plan.—Butteb Factoet.
What really distinguishes the American system is the manner of setting
the milk so as to secure an even temperature, and applying to butter-making
the principles of association, so that the highest skill in manufacturing may
be obtained ; in other words, the inauguration of butter factories.
In previous pages of this volume cuts illustrating the ground plans of the
early butter factories have been given. We introduce here the subjoined
cuts (Figures 8 and 9) showing elevation and ground plan of G. B. Weeks'
new butter fictory. Referring to the ground plan (Figure 9), it will be seen
that in the arrangement the factory is quite as well adapted to cheese-making
alone as to butter and skira-cheese manufacture. The advantage of such an
arrangement is, that the factory may be turned at once to the making of
whole-milk cheese or to butter and skira-cheese, as one or the other system
494
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
may happen to be most profitable. The ground plan explains itself and needs
no description. The upper story of the factory is for a cheese-curing room,
and may be divided off for other purposes as well, if desired. The factory is
regarded by many as one of the most convenient in its arrangement of any
of the modern built establishments.
THE WATER POOLS.
In the butter factories the milk-room is constructed so that good ventila-
tion is secured. It is provided with vats or tanks for holding water. These
should be sunk in the earth in order to secure a lower or more even tempera-
ture of water as well as for convenience in handling the milk. The pools are
about six feet wide, and from twelve to twenty-four feet long, arranged for a
depth of eighteen inches of water. There should be a constant flow of water
in and out of the vats or pools, so as to secure a uniform temperature of the
milk after it has been divested of its animal heat. The milk is set in pails,
eight inches in diameter by twenty inches in length (see Figure 10), each
holding fifteen quarts of milk. As fast as the milk is
delivered, the pails are filled to the depth of from six-
teen to seventeen inches, and plunged in the water, care
being taken that the water comes up even with or a
little above the milk in the pails. The temperature of
the water should be from 48° to 56°. A pool holding
two thousand quarts of milk should have a sufficient
flow of water to divest the milk of its animal heat in
less than an hour. Good, pure milk should keep sweet
thirty-six hours when thus put in the vats, even in the
hottest weather. When milk is kept thirty-six hours in
FiGUKE 10. the water nearly all the cream will rise. The Orange
Co. dairymen claim that it all rises in twenty-four hours. They say, too,
that they get as much cream, by setting in pails on the above plan, as they can
by setting the milk shallow in pans, and the cream is of better quality, because
a smaller surface being exposed to the air, there is not that liability for the
cream to get dry, which has a tendency to fleck the butter and injure its quality.
REGULATING TEMPERATURE.
One of the troubles of butter-making on the old system is in regulating
the temperature of the milk-room, and in knowing when to skim the cream.
It requires close watching. In our variable climate it is almost impossible to
keep the milk at an uniform temperature when set in pans in the ordinary way.
By the new system we always have an imiform temperature without trouble,
and therefore have perfect control of the milk. Again, in the new system, the
shells of caseine, inclosing the butter globules, are not so liable to decompose
and injure the flavor of the butter, for it is this caseineous matter that spoils
the butter, and even under the best management it cannot all be taken out ;
but by exposing only a small surface to the air we effect an important gain.
Practical Dairy Hvsbanbrt. 495
patent chukns.
The Orange Co. butter-makers have tried a great many patent churns, and
they find none they like so well as the old barrel dash-churn. At the butter
factories they use the barrel and a-half size, and about fifty quarts of sweet
cream are put into each churn ; the cream is diluted with water, by adding
cold water in summfer and warm in winter, at the rate of sixteen to thirty
quarts to each churning.
THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CREAM IN SUMMER,
when the churns are started is a little below 60°, but in cold weather they
are started at 64°. In warm weather ice is sometimes broken up to put in
the churn to reduce the temperature to 56°, but it is deemed better to churn
without ice if the cream does not go above 64° in the process of churning, as
butter made with ice is more sensitive to heat. It requires from forty-five to
sixty minutes to churn, when the butter should come solid and of a rich
yellow color ; it is then taken from the churn, and thoroughly washed in cold
spring water. In this process the ladle is used, and three times pouring on
water is generally all that is required. It is then salted at the rate of from,
sixteen to eighteen ounces of salt to twenty-two pounds of butter ; for butter
intended for keeping through the winter a little more. The butter, after
having been salted and worked over, is allowed to stand till evening, and is
then worked a second time and packed. A buttei'-workei-, consisting of a
lever, fastened to an inclined table, is used for working the butter. Sometimes
in hot weather, after salting, it is taken to the spring and immersed in water,
when it it taken out, worked over, and packed in sixty pound pails.
WHITE OAK FIRKINS
are used for packing, and the greatest attention is given to have them strongly
hooped and perfectly tight, so as not to allow the least leakage. They are
thoroughly washed in cold water before using, then in hot water, and again
in cold water. After being filled with butter, they are headed up and a
strono- brine poured in at the top to fill all the intervening spaces. Another
advantao-e resulting from this butter factory system is, that the skimmed milk
is turned into skim-cheese. The butter factories, so far as introduced, if
managed by competent persons, have proved a success, and have revolution-
ized the dairy product of the neighborhood.
THEY EFFECTUALLY DO AWAY WITH GREASE
and put upon the market a high-flavored, high priced article. Wherever
butter factories are established, consumers go into ecstacies over their intro-
duction. " We now know," they say, " where we can always lay hands on
a prime article, and we do not mind the cost for a rare delicacy."
LOSING THE AROMA.
It is sometimes contended that the practice of washing the butter detracts
from its fine aroma. Doubtless this is so when the washing is excessive. It
496 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
is difficult and laborious to expel the butter milk simply by working or
kneading. Wasting in water seems to be indispensable in removing more
perfectly the caseinous particles and securing butter that will keep.
BUTTEE CELLARS.
The Orange Co. factories are provided with butter cellars, cool, well
ventilated and perfectly free from all taints of decaying substances. It is
needless to say that these are indispensable to the butter-maker. To private
or family dairies, where butter alone is produced, the system is well adapted.
The appliances are not expensive, and compared with the great advantages
over old methods cannot be over-estimated.
SKIMMED-CHEESE MANLTPACTUEE.
In making skimmed-milk cheese, we do not advise that all the cream
that will rise be taken from the milk. It is important in the realization of
good profits to have a skim cheese of fair quality that will meet with ready
sale at a fair price. If all the cream that can be obtained from the milk be
removed and the milk then turned into cheese, it will lack quality, and the
loss in price will be much more than the value of a little cream which should
go with the skimmed milk for the purpose of improving the quality of the
cheese, and rendering it more palatable.
If the milk is set in cans plunged in sj^ring water, on the Orange county
system, the morning's mess may stand for cream say twenty-four hours, or
until next morning ; and the night's milk twelve hours. The two messes of
milk may then be skimmed, and the milk mingled together, placed in the vat
for cheese-making. The manufacture of skim-cheese does not differ mate-
rially from that of whole milk cheese. The milk in the vat being raised to a
temperature of 82°, a sufficient quantity of rennet is added to perfect coagu-
lation in about fifty minutes or an hour. Then the mass is cut with a steel-
bladed curd-knife, the process of breaking effected as with whole milk cheese.
The curd now having been allowed to subside, a gentle heat is begun to be
applied, and the mass is very gradually raised to a temperature of 96°, the
curds meanwhile being stirred, so as to keep from packing or clinging together.
The curds are retained in the whey until properly matured, or as dairymen
usually express it, " scalded," when the whey is drawn, the curds removed to
the sink, and manipulated as with whole milk curds, and then salted at the
rate of three pounds salt to one hundred of curd. Skimmed-cheese is usually
made in small, flat shapes, somewhat similar to the single Gloucester of Eng-
lish manufacture. They may be pressed in smaller hoops if desired, but very
thick shapes should be avoided, as they do not cure so evenly and are more
liable to get out of flavor. The most difficult part in manufacture is to know
when the curds are properly matured or scalded. This is only to be learned
by practice, or by handling the curds.
In making skim-cheese it is important that a good, salable article be pro-
duced. When milk is set in pans for butter making, about twenty pounds
Fr ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry.
497
of milk on an average will produce one pound of butter. In the skim-cheese
and butter manufacture, about twenty-eight or thirty pounds of milk on
an average are taken to make one pound of butter and two pounds of skim-
cheese ; thus a basis is given in which to estimate the result of operations.
In regard to the quantity of milk taken to make a pound of butter, I have
named twenty pounds as an average, that quantity having been reported from
the dairy practice of Hon. Zadock Pratt of Green Co., N. Y. In his
report, going over several years, we find that during some seasons a much
larger quantity of milk was required to make a pound of butter. As milk
varies very much in character from a variety of causes, it mnst be evident
that no exact standard can be given to apply in all cases. These figures must
therefore, refer only to milk of average good quality.
MILK FOR SKIM-CHBBSE MAKING
must not be allowed to sour. It must be kept sweet, and this is easily done
with the proper appliances. If the cream is churned sweet, and the butter-
milk has not changed, it may be added to the skimmed milk, and thus
employed for cheese-making.
BUTTERMILK
can hardly be regarded as of equal average value to the milk with which it is
mixed for cheese-making. The value of buttermilk for cheese-making varies
greatly from a variety of circumstances. Some specimens may be quite rich
and others exceedingly poor. In a specimen of cream examined by Berze-
Lius, the butter milk in one hundred parts was composed of cheesy matter,
3.5 ; whey matter, 92.0. Cream varies very much in composition, according
to the circumstances under which it is produced. Cream of average quality
contains about twenty-five per cent, of butter. The analysis of two samples
of cream gave the following :
No. 2.
Water,
Butter (pure fatty matter),
Caseine,
Milk sugar,
Mineraf matter,
If it were possible to take all the butter from the cream by churning we
should have in the buttermilk of the above samples a trifle over two and
a-half pounds of cheesy matter out of a hundred pounds of cream. Or, if
we take out the butter, letting the balance represent the butter milk, the first
sample would give a little over two and a-half poiands of cheesy material
from neai'ly eighty-nine pounds of buttermilk, and in the second sample
about the same amount of cheesy matter from sixty-six and a-half j)ounds of
32
498 Practical Dairy Husbanbry.
buttermilk. But in churning the cream a j)ortion of the butter remains in
the buttermilk, so it would be no easy matter to say how much cheese one
hundred pounds of buttermilk would yield. Milk, in the fall of the year, is
quite rich in butter, and even when the night's milk is skimmed and added to
the whole milk of the morning, the mixture will probably yield a pound of
cheese from nine pounds of milk.
CHTJENING THE CREAM OR THE MILK.
It is claimed, as has been remarked, and with some reason, that churning
the whole milk makes more butter than to set the milk and churn the cream.
In setting the milk there is always a small portion of cream remaining in the
milk after skimming ; and again, in churning whole milk there are more shells
of caseine mixed with the butter. This cheesy matter increases the weight
but diminishes the quality of the butter. The shells of caseine also give
a whitish appearance to the buttei', injuring its color. I do not say but that
very good butter may be made from churning whole milk, but it is more diffi-
cult than to make from the cream ; and hence, for a choice article, of fine
color, full of aroma and of long keeping qualities, I should advise setting
the milk and churning the cream. A temperature of about 65°, or a little
above, is said to be the best for churning whole milk if sweet, but the usual
temperature employed is from 60° to 65°.
THE DUTCH PROCESS.
The process of making butter by churning the milk and cream together
is practiced to some extent in Holland. In the Dutch process the milk is put
into deep jars in a cool place, each meal or portion milked at one time being
kept separate. As soon as there is the least appearance of acidity, the whole
is placed in an upright churn to be churned. When the butter begins to form
in small kernels the contents of the churn are emptied in a sieve that lets the
butter milk pass through ; the butter is then formed into a mass.
THE SCOTCH METHOD.
In some of the dairy districts of Scotland the process is somewhat similar.
The milk when it is drawn from the cow is placed from six to twelve hours in
a cooler. When completely cooled the whole meal is emptied into a large
wooden tub or vat. If the vat is sufficiently capacious and a second meal of
milk has become cold, before the first exhibits any acidity, the two may be
mixed together. A lid or cover is then put over the vat, which is allowed to
stand undisturbed until the milk has soured and become loppered or coagu-
lated. When it has arrived at this state it is fit to be churned. It is put in
the churn and agitated a few minutes merely to break the coagulum of the
milk. The mass is then brought to a temperature of 70° and churned. In
some sections the milk is churned sweet, either a few hours after milking, or
the night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together, and churned in the
afternoon. It is more work to churn the milk than the cream.
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 499
turning the milk to most profit.
When it is desired to turn milk to most account or profit, it should be
set for cream, and this being removed while sweet, the skim-milk may be
made into skim-cheese. Small skim-cheeses well made, meet with ready sale
at a fair price. The whey resulting from the manufacture of the skim-cheese,
when mixed with meal, is turned to good account as a feed for hogs, and in
this way nothing is wasted.
COLORING BUTTER.
One of the market requisites in butter is that it be of a rich yellow or
golden color. The fact that grass butter always has a rich shade without
resorting to artificial coloring, is sufiicient reason on the part of consumers
for suspecting that white butter must be of inferior quality. Late fall or
spring butter made from the milk of cows fed upon hay, is generally deficient
in color, and unless some artificial means be employed to give it the desired
shade, it will not command a price in market equal to butter of the same
texture and quality that has been colored.
Pure annatto when properly prepared is very successfully used for impart-
ing a good color to fall and winter butter. Annatto, of course, adds nothing
to the flavor or quality of butter, but as the pure article when thus employed
is quite harmless, there can be no serious objection to its use. In coloring
butter with annatto it is important that a prime article be used, and to have
it prepared so that it shall be free from sediment. Nicholl's English liquid
annatto is a very good article for this purpose, but the annattoine, or dry
extract of annatto, prepared as for cheese-making, after D. H. Burrell's
receipt, which has been given on a previous page, is the best material for
coloring butter artificially that I have seen.
It gives a rich shade of color, is quite free from sediment, and from any
deleterious adulteration. Doubtless the best way of coloring butter late in
fall and spring, is to feed the cows upon early cut hay, nicely cured, with the
addition of a daily mess of carrots, oat and corn meal, etc., as no artificial
coloring will then be required, while the flavor and quality of the butter
approximates more nearly to that made when the cows are at pasture. But
as the kind of hay I have named may not be at hand, something, of course,
must be done to take away that tallowy look which winter and spring butter
is apt to have.
coloring with carrots.
I have seen a rich yellow color imparted to butter by coloring with
carrots. The carrots should be thoroughly cleaned, then with a knife scrape
off the yellow exterior only, and soak it in boiling milk for ten or fifteen
minutes. It is then strained through a fine cloth, and the liquid added to the
cream before churning. It not only gives a nice color, but some think it
imparts a sweetness of flavor to the butter, somewhat resembling that
obtained when the cows are feeding upon grass. When carrots are used for
500
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
the purpose indicated, the outer or yellow portion of the root only is
employed. I have heard it suggested that butter colored in this way (with
carrots), is injured somewhat in its keeping qualities, but in my own expe-
rience I have not found this to be the case. In the use of annatto it is under-
stood, of course, that the coloring is to be added to the cream before churning.
In the American Agricultural Annual for 1868, Prof. S. W. Johnson of
Sheffield Scientific School, Yale College, has an interesting article wherein the
philosophy of butter making is discussed. We make the following extracts.
He says :
"avekage composition op the products obtained from milk in
making butter.
" In making butter, one hundred parts of milk yield on the average, in round
numbers, the following proportions of cream, butter, etc., provided the cream
rises in a cool apartment, so that no sensible evaporation of water takes place :
Butter milk, 6.0
Butter, -. 4.0 ) Calculated
Water removed from butter by saltiug, 0. 1 f without salt.
Cream, 10.0 10
Skimmed milk, 90
100
" The average percentage composition of these products is given in the subjoined table:
New
Milk.
Skimmed
Milk.
Ceeam.
BUTTEKMLLK.
BUTTEE.t
Brine, t
Fat,
Allumiuoids,*
Milk sugar,
Ash,
4.00
3.25
4.50
0.75
87.50
0.55-
3.37
4.66
0.78
90.64
35.00
2.20
3.05
0.50
59.25
1.67
3.33
4.61
0.77
89.62
85.00
0.51
0.70
0.12
13.67
0.00
0.39
3.84
0.86
Water,
94.91
Total,
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
100.00
* Caseine and albumen.
JUnsalted.
Brine that separates on working after saltiug; salt not included.
"when IS MILK OR CREAM READY FOR CHURNING?
It is very difficult, if not impossible, to bring butter from fresh milk, or
from thin cream that gathers upon milk kept cold for twenty-four hours. It
has been supposed that milk should sour before butter can be made. This is
an error ; numberless trials having shown that sweet milk and sweet cream
yield butter, as much and as easily as sour cream, provided they have stood
for some time at medium temperature. The fat of milk exists in minute
globules which are inclosed in a. delicate membrane. It was natural to sup-
pose that in fresh milk this membrane prevents the cohesion of the fatty
matters, and that, when, by standing, the milk or cream becomes capable of
yielding butter after a short churning, it is because the membrane has disap-
peared or become extremely thin. Experiments show, in fact, that those sol-
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 501
vents which readily take up fat, as ether for example, dissolve from sweet
milk more iu proportion to the length of time it has stood at a medium
temperature.
" Readiness for churning depends chiefly upon the time that has elapsed
since milking, and the temperature to which it has been exposed in the pans.
The colder it is the longer it must be kept. At medium temperature, 60° to
70* F., it becomes suitable for the churn in twenty-four hours, or before the
cream has entirely risen. Access of air appears to hasten the process. The
souring of the milk or cream has, directly, little to do with preparing them
for the churn. Its influence is, howevei', otherwise felt, as it causes the
caseine to pass beyond that gelatinous condition in which the latter is inclined
to foam strongly at low temperatures, and by enveloping the fat globules
hinders their uniting together. On churning cream that is very sour, the
caseine separates in a fine, granular state, which does not interfere with the
" gathering " of the butter. Even the tenacious, flocky mass that appears on
gently heating the sweet whey from Cheshire cheese, may be churned without
difficulty after becoming strongly sour.
" Cream churned when slightly sour, as is the custom in the Holstein dairies,
yields butter of a jDCCuliar and fine aroma. Butter made from sour cream is
destitute of this aroma, and has the taste which the Holstein butter acquires
after keeping some time. Stirring of cream does not promote souring, but
rather hinders it by increasing access of air ; it may be advantageous in mak-
ing the souring uniform.
"the tempekatuee while churning.
which is most favorable for gathering the butter with the proper softness and
adhesiveness, is 66® to 70° F. The melting point of butter made on dry
hay is slightly higher than that produced on grass, or while feeding with oil
cake ; . correspondingly we find that, in winter, it is customary to churn a few
degrees warmer than in summer. Sour cream may be cooled by direct addi-
tion of Avater, but sweet cream is thereby prevented from yielding its butter.
In the latter case, cold skim-milk may be used, or the cream should be cooled
by water external to the churn.
" the duration of churning.
as is well recognised in practice, is of great influence on both the quality and
quantity of the butter. Half an hour, at least, is considered essential by
experienced dairymen for churning, when the volume of cream is considerable,
and an hour or even more is not thought too much. The object of churning
is to bring the fat globules of the cream or milk, which, by standing a suit-
able time, have become divested of their envelopes, into contact so that they
unite to a coherent mass. The gentler the motion to which the cream is sub-
jected, the more slowly goes on the process of agglutination, and the closer
and finer the union takes place. By slow churning the butter leaves the
churn in a nearly finished condition, and requires a comparatively small
I
502 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
amount of working to complete its preparation. On the contrary, when
butter is to come in a few minutes by violent agitation, as in the strife for the i
repute of quick work in case of trials of new churns, there is obtained, !
instead of good butter in dense and large clumps, a doughy mass consisting I
of little balls of fat mixed with buttermilk and cream, and full of air bubbles,
which no skill in working can convert into good butter. While it is true
that violent churning will produce a greater weight of so-called butter, it is
demonstrated by chemical analysis that the milk or cream thus treated does
not yield so much of its fat as is obtained by slower and gentler agitation.
The greater weight of the product is due to the admixture of butter milk,
which is retained in the spongy mass. The fact that churning must go on
for some time before any visible change is effected in the cream, and that the
blatter ' comes ' somewhat suddenly, is due to the exceeding minuteness of
the fat globules, of which myriads must unite before they attain a size visible
to the unaided eye.
" WASHING BUTTEE.
To prepare butter for keeping without danger of rancidity and loss of
its agreeable flavor, great pains is needful to remove the buttermilk as com-
pletely as possible. This is very imperfectly accomplished by simply work-
ing or kneading. As the analysis before quoted shows, salting removes but
little besides water and small quantities of sugar. Caseine, which appears
to spoil the butter for keeping, is scarcely diminished by these means.
"Washing with water is indispensable for its removal. In Holland and parts
of Ilolstein it is the custom to mix the cream with a considerable amount of
water in churning. The butter is thus washed as it ' comes.' In Holland it
is usual to wash the butter copiously with water besides. The finished article
is more remarkable for its keeping qualities than for fineness of flavor when
new. The Holstein butter, which is made without washing, has at first a
more delicious aroma, but appears not to keep so well as washed butter.
Swedish butter, made by Gussandee's method, in which the cream rises
completely in twenty-four hours, the milk being maintained at a temperature
of 60® to 75" F., is, when jKepared without water, the sweetest of all. If,
however, it is to be kept a length of time, it must be thoroughly washed
before salting.
" SALTING.
" Immediately after chui-ning the mass consists of a mixture of butter
with more or less cream. In case very rich cream (from milk kept warm) is
employed, as much as one-thii'd of the mass may be cream. The process of
working completes the union of the still unadhering fat globules, and has,
besides, the object of removing the buttermilk as much as possible. The
buttermilk, the presence of which is objectionable in new butter by impair-
ing the taste, and which speedily occasions rancidity in butter that is kept,
cannot be properly removed by working alone. Washing, as already
Practical Dairy Husbandry. 503
described, aids materially in disposing of the buttermilk, but there is a
limit to its use, since if applied too copiously, the fine flavor is impaired.
After working and washing there remains in the butter a quantity of butter-
milk or water which must be removed if the butter is to admit of preserva-
tion for any considerable time. To accomplish this as far as possible, salting
is employed. The best butter-makers, after kneading out the buttermilk as
for as practicable, avoiding too much working so as not to injure the consis-
tency or ' grain ' of the butter, mix with it about three per cent, of salt,
which is worked in layers, and then leave the whole twelve to twenty-four
hours. At the expiration of this time the butter is again worked, and still
another interval of standing, with a subsequent working, is allowed in case
the butter is intended for long keeping. Finally, when put down, additional
salt (one-half per cent.) is mixed at the time of packing into the tubs or
crocks. The action in salt is osmotic. It attracts water from the buttermilk
that it comes in contact with, and also takes up the milk sugar. It effects
thus a partial separation of the constituents of the buttermilk. At the same
time it penetrates the latter and converts it into a strong brine which renders
decomposition and rancidity difficult or impossible. Sugar has the same
effect as salt, but is more costly and no better in any respect. Independently
of its effect as a condiment, salt has two distinct offices to serve in butter-
making, viz. : 1st, to remove buttermilk as far as possible from the pores of
the butter; and 2d, to render innocuous what cannot be thus extracted."
TAINTS IN" BUTTER-MAKING.
Little things have much to do in dairy management. It is a little thing
in butter-making that often spoils a large quantity of butter. Due attention
may have been paid to pasturage, to cows, to milking, to setting the milk and
churning the cream, and yet the butter turns out to be ill-flavored and inferior
for the table. That clealiness and a pure atmosphere for milk and cream are
essential to success in butter-making, seems to be one of the most difficult
things for people to understand. I have seen butter spoiled by standing the
cream in wooden vessels — vessels that had absorbed a taint from decomposed
cream and which no ordinary cleansing would remove ; nor could dairymaids
sometimes be made to believe that so apparently slight a cause would produce
the difficulty until a change from wood to stone cream pots changed the whole
character of their products. Some dairymen are in the habit of standing
their.
CKEAM POTS IN THE KITCHEN PANTRY
to take the odors of boiled cabbage, fried onions and the steam of culinary
operations on the kitchen stove, and it is from these things, these little things.,
that a taint goes to the cream-pots, and the good woman Avonders what is the
matter with the butter. The butter-makers of Pennsylvania, who manufacture
the celebrated Philadelphia butter, are exceedingly careful that no taints are
allowed to come in contact with the cream or milk in the spring-house. You
504
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
cannot enter their sacred precincts with a lighted cigar, your shoes must be
cleansed of all impurities and you are expected to observe all the proprieties
that you would on entering a costly-furnished parlor. It is by attention to
the smallest details that they have been enabled to accomplish a grand result,
and put upon the table a luxury.
CAUSES AFFECTING THE CHURNING.
The food on which a cow is fed has considei'able influence, not only on
the quantity and quality of the butter she will yield, but on the time required
in churning. Generally, when the extra food given is rich in nitrogen, there
is less trouble in churning ; or, in other words, the butter comes quicker than
when such food as potatoes, distiller's slops, etc., is made the sole extra food.
If bran, oats and corn meal be given to the cow in connection with the pota-
FlGUBB 11. FiGUBE 12.
toes, the cream will be of better quality and will be more easily churned
than that made from potatoes and hay alone. It may be remarked here that
when neither grain nor meal is fed to cows in winter, in addition to hay, and
the extra feed is composed of materials of which starch, sugar and water are
the chief ingredients, the cream requires to be churned at a higher tempera-
ture than that produced from food containing a good proportion of albumi-
noids. There is another trouble in fall and winter that often retards the
churning ; the milk and cream are not kept at an even temperature. If the
milk is allowed to freeze and thaw, or to fall to a low temperature while being
set for cream there is more difficulty in getting the butter speedily. The
milk or cream should not be allowed to fall below 60°.
When no conveniences are had for keeping the milk at the proper tem-
perature while the cream is rising, in fall and winter, tolerably good results
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
505
may be obtained by scalding the milk by placing it in a pan over hot water
on the stove. As soon as a little " crinkle " is observed on the onter edges
of the thin coat of cream which rises, remove the pan to a room of moderate
temperature, or where the temperature does not fall below 50°, and the cream
will not only rise rapidly, but can generally be churned with facility. The
proper scalding of the milk will be easily learned by experiment. If scalded
too much, the amount of cream will be diminished. I do not object to pota-
toes being fed to cows in milk during fall and winter, but they should have
in addition a mess of meal daily, with all the good hay they can eat.
POWER FOR CHURlSriNG.
A great many devices from time to time have been invented for lessening
the labor of churning. Commencing with some of the more rude and simple
modes of applying power, the preceding cut (Figure 11), is an illustration.
It is simply a hickory sapling about
twelve or fourteen feet long, fastened
firmly at the butt end, while at the
other end is fixed a seat in which a
child can sit and perform the work
with more ease than a grown person
in the ordinary way. The dash of the
churn may be fastened at any point to
accommodate the spring of the pole.
Then we have the simple arrange-
ment of utilizing the water from small
streams that may happen to be conve-
nient to the premises. An illustration
of such apparatus is shown in figure 12.
Figure 12 is a watei'-power churn, showing the water-wheel fitting easily
into the box or flume at the outlet of the dam ; or it may be simf)ly placed
in a swift-running brook, as it does not require much power or speed. The
wheel should be about three feet in diameter. The power can be transmitted
any distance by means of two wires fastened upon j^oles with swing-trees that
receive a backward and forward motion from the crank of the water-wheel.
A correspondent of the Rural New Yorker sends to that paper the
directions for making one of these appliances, which may prove suggestive
and useful to farmers who have an opportunity of using water power for the
purpose named. He says : — Take a stick of timber twenty inches in length
and six in diameter (marked G,) (see Figure 13) secure it at the ends by iron
bands (similar to hub-bands on a carriage-wheel) to prevent sj^litting while
mortising the holes and driving the arms, to which pieces of board seven
inches in width and twelve or fourteen inches long must be nailed. These
are the paddles to the wheel, and there must be four of them. In one end of
the shaft there must be an iron pin, in the other a crank F, similar to the
Figure 13.
606
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
crank of a grindstone. The crank must be just half as long as the play in the
churn. Have the end of the crank square where it is driven into the end of the
shaft, so as to prevent its moving in the shaft as the wheel goes round. After
the end of the crank is driven into the shaft, attach the other end to a piece!
of board two inches in width E, reaching up to cross piece C, which is made:
long enough to reach to the place where the churn is to sit. The center of
the cross piece is made to play upon an iron or hard wood pin in a groove in
the top of a post D, which must be set firmly in the ground, or made firml
some other way. At the other end of the cross piece is another stick or'
light piece of board B, extending downward to the top of the churn dashers,
and is secured by boring a hole in each end, tying them together with a good
strong string, and all is ready for churning. I have one of these which my
son fourteen years old made, after irons were ready, which does ray churning
in twenty minutes, when the cream is the right tem2:)erature.
When considerable quantities of cream are to be chui-ned and hand power
is relied upon, the following sketch and description which a correspondent
sends us may be useful. He says the machine was invented by a neighbor
FlGDKB 14. '
who has used it twenty years and finds it a most convenient and labor-saving
appliance, and any farmer who is handy with tools can make all the parts in
a short time and it will run one or half a-dozen churns as easily as could be
wished. He describes the machine as follows (See Figure 14). A horizontal
shaft eighteen inches in circumference, is made to turn loosely in posts or in
stationary uprights at either end. In the center of the shaft is fixed a bar
that extends nearly to the floor, and at the lower end there is a handle of
convenient length for moving the bar to and fro, thus setting the machine in
motion. Cross bars are arranged in the shaft to which the churn dashers are
attached. When four churns are to be used at once, the posts should be
seven feet apart, and the cross bars to which the dashers are attached should
pass through the shaft half-way from either post to the perpendicular bar
which operates the machine. The churn-dasher handles must be made ten or
Fraciical Dairy Husbandry
507
twelve inches longer than the ordinary handles, and with holes through the
top to receive a pin by which they are secured to the cross-bars, making a
movable joint. The cut (Figure 15) shows a mechanical contrivance to
lessen the labor of hand churning. The system of gearing and balance
wheel not only lessens the labor but produces a steadiness of motion or regu-
larity of stroke of the dash which is always desirable in churning. Figure
16 is the old-fashioned dog-churn, and probably as good in all respects as any.
The tread wheel should be carpeted, in order to give the dog a firm hold with
his toe-nails. Any carpenter can make it with no other directions than the
engraving affords. The plain plank treadwheel should be inclined as in the
engraving.
DOG AND SHEEP POWEK.
The Cortland Co. butter-makers use a machine constructed on the prin-
ciple as shown at figure 16, except that there is an improved gearing for
Figure Ift FigttrE 16.
running the churn. In Orange Co. horse-powers for churning are constructed
essentially on the same plan. Figure 17 is a vertical wheel with a rim about
two feet in width, on the inside of which the animal treads. It is necessary
to have this wheel as much as eight or ten feet in diameter. The engraving
gives ample insight into its mechanical construction. The Emeey machine,
a dog-power, constructed on the railway principle, is very much liked by
many, and is a cheap and efficient power. The illustration (Figure 18) shows
the form and manner of application.
Among the sweep powers for churning we know of nothing better than
the Richardson power — one of the cheapest sweep powers made, and useful
for many other kinds of work on the farm besides churning. The cut (Fig:
19) shows its general form.
608
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
OVER-WORKING BUTTER AND SPOILING THE GRAIN.
A great deal of good butter is spoiled in the working. There are vast
quantities of butter to be found in the markets, of good color, properly
salted, the buttermilk expelled, and yet it has a mussy look and lardy taste. ■
Consumers are often at a loss to account for it. The butter is not rancid nor i
has it any disagreeable odor, but it is poor, nevertheless. This butter may
have been made from the nicest cream, with the utmost attention to cleanli-
ness in every branch of its manufacture, from the drawing of the milk to its
packing in the firkin. The maker perhaps has expended all her knowledge
and every resource within reach to get a prime article, hoping for a name in
the market, and an advanced price for a really " tip-top " article. And when
the expert affirms that the butter is inferior and must be classed as second or
Figure 17. Figubk 18.
third rate, it is very disheartening, and some give up in despair of ever learn-
ing the " knack " of manufacturing a strictly nice grade of goods. They
cannot imagine why butter upon which so much care and attention has been
bestowed should be condemned as having a greasy look and taste. If inquiry
be made concei'ning the fault in manufacture, the dealer, if he be an expert,
will be very likely to say, " My dear sir, or madam, your butter has no
grain ;" but, as it is somewhat difficult to define Avhat is meant by
THE " GRAIN " OF BUTTER,
and as the manufacturer does not understand where the trouble lies, no
improvement is made. What is meant by the term grain as applied to butter,
is a waxy appearance, and the more it resembles wax in its apjjearance the
better the grain. When properly churned, both as to time and temperature,
the butter becomes firm with very little working, and is tenacious. It then
may be easily molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable
length before breaking. It has a smooth and unctuous feeling on rubbing a
little between the finger and thumb. When the grain is injured the butter
spreads like grease, and the more it resembles grease the more is the grain
injured. Good butter that has not been injured in the grain will not stick to
the knife that cuts it. Butter that has no grain is brittle, and when broken
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
509
presents a jagged surface and will not spread with that smooth, waxy appear
ance belonging to good butter. It is only when butter has this waxy coq
sistency that it preserves that rich, nutty flavor
and smell which impart so high a degree of
pleasure in eating it. So it will be seen there
is very good reason for consumers rejecting
butter that has been overworked into grease,
even though it may have all the essentials of the
best quality when taken from the churn.
IlSr WORKING BUTTEK.
the hands should not come in direct contact with
the butter. Gather it together with a wooden
butter ladle in the tray or butter bowl, turn off
the buttermilk and wash with fresh spring water.
Gash it around the whole circumference, making
channels lowest at either end, so that the butter-
milk can readily run off. Do not grind it down
against the tray, after the manner of tempering
mortar, for in this way you will be likely to
injure the grain. It is not well to attempt to
work out all the buttermilk at once.
But very little manipulation is required in
washing out the buttermilk; then salt with
pure, fine salt and set aside in a cool place for
twelve hours, during which time the action of
the salt will liberate more of the buttermilk.
Then work a second time, either with the ladle
or butter-worker, using precautions not to over-
work or grind the butter by rubbing it down
against the tray, and then the work is done and
the butter is ready for packing.
BUTTER-WOEKEE.
Quite a number of butter-workers have been
introduced from time to time, some of them
useful and others liable to injure the grain of
the butter from their peculiar construction. On
a previous page I have given a cut of the butter-
worker used largely in Orange Co. Among the
butter-workers of Cortland Co., N". Y., I found
an instrument very much like those illustrated
in figures 20 and 21, largely in use. They
appeared to be inferior to the Orange Co. machine. The subjoined cuts will
510
Practical Dairy Husbandrt,
illustrate some of the butter-workers that have been in use from time to time
(see Figures 22, 23 and 24). Figures 22 and 23 consist of a table and fluted
roller. The roller is made of hard wood, and being pressed over the butter
expels the buttermilk. It may also be made to incorporate salt with the butter.
A table is in some cases made with a marble top ; but it has been urged against
such that the acid of the buttermilk decomposes the stone, and the lime
becoming mixed with the butter, injures it. Hence wood, maple or oak, is
preferred.
The Eureka or Corbin butter-worker, is a recent invention, and from its
simplicity and ease of operation is a valuable addition to this class of imple-
ments. A common butter-bowl is placed and held securely on a small, light
stool, firmly against a solid rest R (see Figure 25) that protects it from break-
ing or springing. It may be revolved either way at will, also easily tipped
FlGUEE 20.
FiGUBE 21.
by a lever to drain olF the fluids, and as readily removed from the stool as
from a table, and bowls of difierent sizes may be used on the same stool.
The ladle, H, is attached to a pendant lever, F, G, that enables a person to
press directly through hard butter in all parts of the bowl without drawing
or sliding it ; also to cut, turn and work it in every manner desired. It is
light, strong and simple, everything about it is practical, with nothing to get
out of place or order, and it is as handily moved, washed and dried as any
butter bowl and ladle. The lever, E, is fastened to the slot, J, while the
butter is being worked, and is raised up to discharge the buttermilk from the
bowl as occasion requires. There is a circular iron rim fastened to the bottom
of the bowl which slides in an iron groove attached to the lever K, and which
allows the bowl to be moved round and when desired to be removed entirely
from the other parts of the worker. I have tested this machine for working
butter and am pleased with its operation.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
511
SALT.
A great many people do not understand the importance of keeping salt in
a dry, pure atmosphere. Of course a pure article of salt should be obtained
in the first jalace ; then keep it wliere it will not absorb foul gases and bad
odors. Salt that is allowed to get damp and is exposed in this condition to
the effluvia of rotten vegetables, the odors from carrion, the sink or cess-pools
is not fit to put into butter. Butter is often spoiled in flavor by inattention
to the manner in which salt is kept — allowing crumbs and other refuse matter
from the pantry to fall into the salt dish — taking out salt with dirty hands,
etc., thus leaving impurities to be gathered up and added to the butter.
HAIKS.
It may also be added that human hair is no improvement, either in the
flavor or quality of butter. I have seen choice samples of butter rejected on
account of a single hair having been discovered in it. So strong was the
impression that the butter was made by a dirty, shiftless person, that no
argument could prevail upon the customer to take it.
FiGtJBB 22.
PlGtTRE 23.
PACKING BUTTER AND BUTTER PACKAGES.
A great many people make good butter and spoil it in the packing. Prob-
ably there is no article of food in which fine quality is more eagerly sought
after than butter, and none for which a large price is more cheerfully paid.
It is true a good deal of butter is spoiled in the making, but it seems such a
wanton waste to deliberately convert a good material into grease for want
of a little foresight in packing, that we cannot refrain from bringing the ques-
tion fairly before the butter-makers of the country. Dairymen should under-
stand that
BUTTER WILL NOT KEEP IN EVERY KIND OP A TUB OR FIRKIN,
and he who packs butter in shabbily-made, badly-hooped tubs, does it as a
cheat and a Avrong to somebody. It is impossible to keep butter any length
of time in a leaky tub, exposed as it must be more or less to foul air and
odors, before it reaches the consumer. Those who make " gilt-edged " butter
512
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
pay the greatest attention to packing, and a good share of its superior quality
(a quality which frequently sells at from seventy-five cents to a dollar per
pound) is due to extra packages and the extra care taken in all the details
while packing. • No " gilt-edged " butter is filled in firkins or pails standing
in the house-cellar, surrounded by decaying vegetables, in the vicinity o»j
soap tubs, stale beef brine, and accumulations of soap grease. Some peopl^
pack and store butter in these places, and then complain because they cannot
get the market price on the day of sale.
A few years since a dairyman of my acquaintance, who had been partic-
ulai'ly unfortunate in his sales, sent for a noted butter-maker to learn the
secret of making a high-priced article. The man came and looked over the
premises, and the only advice given was, " You need a clean, sweet, Avell-
ventilated cellar for storing butter, and it must be used for nothing else ;
FiGTIEB 24.
FiGtJBE 25.
THEN GET OAK FIEKINS, HEAVILY HOOPED, AIR-TIGHT,
and made just as handsome as the best cooper can turn them out. You need
not change in your process of manufacture. This is all you have to do, and
I will warrant your success." These suggestions were at once adopted and
quick sales, large prices and heavy profits were the result. That dairy has
now an enviable reputation, and the butter is eagerly sought after. A dirty-
looking package will often lose a good sale. It should have a fresh, clean,
sweet appearance when it reaches the consumer, that will please the eye of
the most fastidious.
THE KIND OP WOOD POR PACKAGES.
There are only a few kinds of wood that are fit to pack butter in. Wood
of the ash is extensively used in some sections. It contains an acid very
objectionable for butter, and should be rejected. Spruce, pine and other gummy
woods are often used, but they impart a disagreeable flavor to the butter.
Practical Dairy Husbandry.
513
White oak makes an excellent package, but the Avood should be thoroughly-
seasoned before using. If the package is to be filled at once f.r.d immediately
sold, a price may perhaps be obtained for it as a good article, but imless it
goes into immediate consumption some one finds himself cheated with rancid
grease. Just where the cheat comes in, and who are the guilty parties, the
thousands of persons who are being cheated never know. I have given on
previous pages cuts representing the Orange Co. packages and the Philadel-
phia butter package. One of the best return packages is the Wescott return
butter pail represented in figure 26. It is made of the best kiln-dried white
oak, matched and turned perfectly smooth inside and outside, oiled and
varnished, with extra heavy iron hoops, nicely fitted and perfectly secured
cover by means of galvanized ears of malleable iron, with bar, spring key and
galvanized hasp. It is a neat, substantial, secure and durable article. The
twenty-five pound Avhite oak pail furnished by the Oak Pail Manufacturing
Company is also a desirable article. It is designed for packing choice butter
for family use, and not being liable to breakage, and being made of the best
FiGUBB 26.
FiGUBE 27.
materials and in the best manner, it is to be recommended. Recently small
packages made after the Wescott return pail, each package holding about
five pounds of butter, have been introduced. Twelve of these packages are
placed in a box in double tiers and are thus sent to market.
The Elmere package is a Vermont invention, and consists in what may be
termed a follower nearly as large as the inside of the tub, with a projection
at tAVO opposite points that slide doAvn in grooves about an incli, and then
become fast by sliding into another groove running in an opposite direction.
The object of the foUoAver is for salt to be placed upon it in such quantity
as to produce a brine that Avill keep the air entirely excluded from the butter,
preserving it from rancidity. The article is represented in figure 27.
PREPARING FIRKINS FOR USE.
In preparing firkins and tubs for use, boiling water should be poured into
them and left to soak for twenty-four hours. Then fill Avith strong brine for
tAvo or three days, turn out and rinse with pure, cold Avater, and rub the
33
514 Practical Dairy Husbandry.
sides with, pure fine salt. Tubs, after being fitted should be headed and
brine poured in at a hole in the top so as to fill all intervening spaces. Fir-
kins when filled may be covered with a thin piece of muslin, upon which is
spread a layer of fine salt, and then closed With a wooden cover. Store in a
clean, sweet, well-ventilated butter cellar until ready for market. Good
butter in good tubs, properly packed and stored, need not wait long for a
customer at top prices.
WHEY BUTTER.
At the fai-m dairies and among the early factories the butter taken from
the whey was not considered of much account beyond furnishing a kind of
grease for oiling the cheese. The whey was run into vats or tubs, and after
standing from twelve to twenty hours, or longer, the cream was taken off and
a sufficient quantity being obtained, it was placed in a kettle over the fire
and " tried out " something in the manner of preparing lard. At the farm
dairies it was often churned and the butter purified by heating over a fire and
pouring the oil from the sediment. The opinion did not at that time gener-
rally prevail that any thing more than a respectable kind of grease could be
obtained from whey cream. A few years ago, however, processes were
adopted for obtaining whey butter and preparing it for table use. In this
some factories have met Avith great success, being able to produce a quality
of butter that, when freshly made and nicely put up, will sell in the market
at the same price as the ordinary samples of butter made at farm dairies.
Whey butter, however, both in texture and flavor, is inferior to fancy butter
made from cream, and though when freshly made it may be made to pass for
cream butter for table use, still it does not possess long-keeping qualities and
should go into immediate consumption as soon as made. The following is a
description of the processes by which whey butter is manufactured for the
table. Under that entitled the hot process five hundred gallons of whey on
an average is said to yield twenty pounds of marktetable butter.
THE HOT PEOCESS.
In this process the whey is drawn sweet directly from the curds to a vat
having a copper bottom, and setting over an arch similar to those used for
boiling sap in sugar making. The butter works are separated from the
cheese manufacturing department, the arch and vat being arranged lower
than the cheese vat, so that the whey may be readily drawn, simply by
having a conducting pipe from one vat to the other. After drawing the whey
one gallon of acid is added for every fifty gallons of milk, if the whey is
sweet. If the whey is changed a less quantity of the acid will be sufficient,
and if the acid is not sharp one pound of fine, pure salt should be incorpo-
rated with it. The acid having been added in the above proportions heat is
immediately applied to the mass until it indicates a temperature of from
175® to 185" F. As the cream rises to the surface it is skimmed off and set
Frautical Dairy Husbandry. 515
in a cool place until next day. It is then churned at a temperature of from
66° to 68°, according to the temperature of the atmosphere, and then worked
and salted according to the usual method of butter-making. The acid
is made by taking any quantity of whey after extracting the cream, heating
it to a boiling point, and adding a gallon of sharp, sour whey to every ten
gallons of boiling whey, when all the caseine and albuminous matter remain-
ing in the whey will collect in a mass. This is skimmed off and the whey
left to stand for twenty-four to forty-eight hours, when it will be ready for use.
THE COLD PROCESS.
The other process, called the Eggak, or cold process, is said to make very
good butter, but I am not so familiar with its operations or the quality of
the butter j^roduced as in the process I have first described. In the cold pro-
cess the whey is drawn into a zinc vat, or one having a metal bottom. This
vat is fifteen inches high, three feet wide and of convenient length. It sets
in a wooden vat with space between the two for cold water. The whey is
then drawn into the upper vat, and a handfull of salt added to every ten gal-
lons of whey. During the first two hours it is stirred thoroughly from the
bottom every fifteen minutes. Afterward it is left to stand quiet for about
twenty-four hours, when it is skimmed. The cream is then churned at a
temjDcratvire of about 58®. If the temperature of the cream is above 60°
cool it; if below 56° warm it. It is churned until the butter becomes granu-
lated about the size of buckwheat kernels, when it is left to stand about five
minutes, then let the buttermilk run ofi", and throw on cold water. Let it
stand until it is hard before stirring much, then rinse with cold M^ater until
the water runs ofi" clear, then churn it together or gather it and press the
water out, and salt it at the rate of one pound of salt to fourteen pounds
butter. Let it stand till next day and work and pack as with other butter.
A.PI>EISri3IX,
DAIRY BARN.
Since writing the description of Dairy Barns, in the fore part of this volume, a
correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends to that paper the following plans of a
convenient dairy barn, which we think offer good suggestions to those who propose to
erect this kind of building on dairy farms. He says : — This barn was designed and is
now owned by D. "W. Clark, Esq., of Schuyler's Lake, N. Y., who is one of the leading
dairymen of Otsego County. The principal advantages attained in its construction are a
dry, light and well ventilated stable for cows, convenience in feeding and caring for tlie
same, ample storage for all the forage needed during the winter, besides room for all the
grain raised on a lai-ge dairy farm ; also depositories for manure, so arranged that it is
protected from the washings of heavy rains without incurring the risk of injuring tlie
health of stock or rotting the limbei-s which support the stable floor, as is the case where
the manure cellars are directly under the stable.
By referring to the engravings, the reader will understand how these advantages
are secured. The basement walls are built on a foundation of stone, hammered into
the soil, and are twenty inches thick, of quarry stone, laid in lime mortar, and are
eight feet high ; the sills are bedded in mortar, and are of yellow pine. The cross
sills are supported by two cast-iron columns (set on a thick stone, four feet square) under
each bent. Tiie piers under main sills are two by four feet, of quarry stone. There are
six bents in the frame, the posts of which are braced and pinned at both top and bottom.
The feed holes or traps are directly beneath the cupolas, which, together with the
windows in rear of stables, are hung on hinges, and may be swung up to secure perfect
ventilation. That portion of the basement devoted to stabling is thirty by seventy feet.
Total area of building, fifty-two by seventy ; has capacity for stabling forty-two cows,
together with feed, horse-power machinery for cutting feed, &c. The root cellar is near
the barn, where there is a stream of water convenient for washing roots and watering
stock. The siding is of inch pine, planed and matched, and thoroughly painted. Total
cost, $3,000.
SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION.
Mr. Anson Bartlett of Ohio, in an address before the American Dairymen's Asso-
ciation, gives the following ;
It is well understood by practical cheese-makers that, in a temperature of 65° or
below, there is very little diflBculty in preserving milk, providing ordinary care is used to
keep all utensils used for or about it clean and sweet, and that while such a temperature
is maintained the merest tyro can produce a fair article of cheese,, but that when the
temperature of the atmosphere rises above that point, ascending as it does in some parls
Practical Dairy Evsbanvry.
Pbactical Dairy Husbandry.
519
End View oi" Feasee-wobk.— The ends or outside bents have walls clear across under sills, instead of iron
columns. I, I, Iron columns. Hight of basement, 8 feet ; hight of post from basement to rafters,
16 feet ; roof, one-half pitch.
Basement.— A, alley. 8x70 feet ; B, stall floor, A^x 70 feet ; C, ditch or drop, 14 inches wide ; D, space or
walk ; B, stanchions ; F, manure cellar ; G, piers, 2x4 feet ; H, columns under cross sills ; W, win-
dows ; I, doora.
520
Afjpendix.
TABLE SHOWING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION.
Stations.
Orleans County.Crafts-
bury, Vt
Chittenden Co., Bur-
lington, Vt
Kutlund County, Bran-
don, Vt
Hampden Co., Spring
field, Mass
Berkshire County,Wil
liams College, Mass
Albany, ~1
Orange Co., New-
burgh,
Oneida Co., South
Trenton,
Oneida Co., Clin-
ton,
Jefferson Co., The-
resa,
Madison Co , Onei-
da,
Oneida Co., Utrca,
Oswego Co., Os-
wego
Monroe Co., Roch-
ester,
Erie Co., BufTalo,.
Chatauqua County
Jamestown J
Ashtabula County,
Austinburg,. ...
Columbiana Co. ,
E. Fairfield
Geauga Co., Welsh-
field
Cuyahoga County,
Cleveland,
Huron Co., Nor- \
walk,
Wayne Co., Woos-
ter,
Erie Co , Kelley's
Island,
Lake County Mad-
ison, J
D3KalbCo,Sand-l
wich
La Salle Co., Otta-
wa,
Winnebago Co .
Winnebago,.. . . '.
MoHenry Co., Ma-
rengo,
Kane Co., Aurora,,
Monroe County, Mon-
roe. Mich
Ingham Co. A2;ricultu-
ral College, Mich....
Cincinnati, Ohio,
Louisville, Ky
Montgomery County,
Clai-ksville, Tenn...
90
87
AG
103
96
96
99
91
9G
93
98
90
95
97
97
93
9.3
94
95
91
98
93
95
96
104
96
99
102
CD
P
>
3
3 3
o
I
g
og
g
a
p
&s
>^
3
^H
~ >^
->
sl
= 3
„. 3
— -c
P
cii
g.
g^
S W
p s
6 ~_
3
Y' 6
3 "
c
t]
.-• 2'
Mean Temperature
each of four
months.
3 W
o c.
09
—28
—29
—22
—21
-18
—18
-15
22
—20
—27
—26
—15
—10
— 9
—17
—14
— 8
—12
—11
-13
-10
—13
-10
—26
—25
—28
-17
—20
— 4
—22
—12
-10
40.3
48.
45.8
46.5
44.5
50.5
50.3
44.
48.
44.5
46.2
45.75
47.3
48.
46.
47.75
43.2
48.8
49.5
48.5
48.8
49.
49.2
4'5.2
47.5
44.
45.5
46.5
48.75
45.8
55.
54.5
56.75
59.1
62 5
65.5
65.5
62.
70.
70.2
65.
68.
64.
65.5
06.5
64.
46.2
66.5
67.
66.
66.
68.5
eas
67.5
71.
69.8
72.
67.75
68.75
68.
66.2
67.5
67.2
66.
74.
75.
73.
£0.7
24.5
25.
24.5
25.5
31.2
.31.
25.
24.
23.5
25.
27.
27.5
28.
25.75
28.75
25.5
30.
.30.
25.5
27.7
29.8
30 5
23.
25.75
26.
22.2
23.5
28.5
25.2
37.
34.5
40.5
45.5
47.5
52.
50.2
49.
57.5
54.5
44.5
50.5
48.2
50.5
44.
51.
48.
49.
52.
54.
52.5
52.
53.5
54.5
52.
52.5
52.5
51.5
52.
51.
53.
56.5
50.
58.
58.2
54.6
38.1
40.
43.
44.5
43.5
46.5
49.5
43.4
44.5
42.5
46.
45 5
45.
45.5
41.5
44.
46.5
43.
46.5
46.5
44.5
48.5
43.
41.
42.5
41.
44.5
44.
42.5
42.5
49.
49.
51.5
44.09
CO.
40.73
62.
40.42
65.
36.25
65.5
35.56
64.5
38.81
68.5
38.82 69.
55.25
43.67
40.71
62.55
44.00
;k.88
44.11
50.34
43.39
59.44
51.88
40.34
39.81
31.07
46.54
35.75
38.91
35.17
43.92
31.86
39.52
28.12
41.31
52.31
48.49
64.5
64.
64.
62.2
66.5
66.
66.5
63.5
67.
69.
70.5
67.
70.
68.5
66.5
67.
67.5
66.5
73.
72.2
72.5
66.
68.
72.
73.
69.
72.1
77.
72.5
69.
71.
70.5
68.5
69.6
73.
73.5
72.
71.5
73.
73.2
74.
73.
76.
75.
71.7
75.
74.75
74.
75.
76.
73.2
73.5
78.3
78.5
77.5
61.3
66.
68.2
63.2
62.
70.
67.
59.2
67.
68.
65.
66.7
66.5
67.5
68.
70.
71.
64.
71.
67.
70.
73.5
72.
68.4
68.
69.5
68.5
65.
68.
68.5
66.5
74.3
73.
73.5
52.6
54.2
57.6
GO. 5
58.
61.4
68.
64.
61.
55.
62.
58.4
58.
58.
60.5
59.
58.
60.
61.
62.
60.
63.
63.5
64.6
59.5
62.
60.
59.
57.
59.2
57.
67.3
66.5
68.5
15.66
15.77
17.72
11.42
16.73
20.04
17.20
24.77
17.15
9.00
32.29
13.02
12.57
15.42
18.30
13.77
28.64
18.01
18.96
18 88
13.69
1.5.53
17.40
13.38
17.77
24.94
16.55
18.81
10.71
15.82
23.17
15.49
1863-66
1863-64
186.3-66
1864-66
1866
1866
1866
1866
1858-63
1863-64
1863-66
1863-66
1863-66
1858-66
1864
1863-64
1866
1858-64
1857-66
1866
1864
1863-66
1857-58
1864-66
1857-66
1858-66
1866
1866
1863-66
1864-66
1857-66
1864-66
1864-66
Appendix.
521
of our country to 98° or 100°, tlie real troubles and tlifficnlties of a cheese-maker begin to
be experienced ; and tainted milk, that worst of all forms of milk, is met with, I believe,
only when the thermometer nuiiks a mean temperature for the day of over 70\
The preceding table, prepared with care, and compiled with a great deal of labor,
shows the highest temperature, the lowest degree, mean annual temperature, mean
temperature of summer, mean temperature of winter (counting four months, June^July,
August and September, as summer, and four months, December, January, February and
Marcii, as winter), the mean temperature of two spring mouths, the mean of two fall
months, tlie mean«annual rain fall, the mean temperature of each of the four months,
June, July, August and September, and the mean rain of all these four warmest months,
at some thirty-four different stations, beginning in tlie Northeast part of Vermont and
Western Massachusetts, extending through New York, Nortiierii Ohio, Southern Mich-
igan and in the Northern part of Illinois, one station in Cincinnati, in Southern Ohio,
Louisville, Ky., and Clarksville, Tennessee.
COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF MILK IN GALLOSiS, CARRIED ON THE ERIE RAILWAY, FOR
THE YEARS 1861, 1863, 1863, 1864 and 1865.
January....
Febriiai-y..
March
A pril
May
June
July
August
September .
October
November .
December.
Total 5,967,770
1862, do
186S, do
1861, do
1865. do
1862.
389,085
372,297
448,525
501,000
613.992
641,877
689,915
652,975
556.050
509,107
407,192
394,920
6,180.537
1863.
398,295
384,917
409,755
550,722
715,500
780,853
782,845
796,092
671,995
604,673
492,992
423,805
7,078,455
1864.
393,995
413,277
521,430
582,657
755,087
815,975
808,065
780,577
640,587
611.343
516,920
456,825
7,296,740
1865.
432,337
410,687
540,902
630,865
809,195
935,972
941,667
871,332
733,760
640,753
528,470
490,256
7,956.189
EECAPITULATIGN'.
1861, total gallons e.aRtmn
1Rfi2 An ' O,9b7,770
^**"'- "^"^ 6,180,537
7,078,455
7,296,740
7,956,189
DAIRY PRODUCT OP THE STATE OF OHIO AND THAT OP HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y.
The statement is made on the authority of the Ohio Farmer that for the past ten years
there lias been a gradual decline in the dairy products of that State. The statistics given
show that in 1860 there was a larger amount of cheese and butter made in the State thau
in 1868. These statistics are as follows :
OHIO DAIRY PRODUCT.
Pounds Butter.
Po'nds Cheese.
Pounds Butter.
Po'nds Cheese.
1860
38.440,498
35,442,858
34,065,629
31.121,275
31,141,876
24,816.424
20,637,253
20,752,097
19,1.30,750
18,097,095
1865
32,4,50,139
36,344,608
34,8.33,445
37,005,378
1861
1866
1862
1863
1867;;;;;;;;;;:;;;;;;;;
19,985;486
1864
17,814,599
HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y., DAIRY PRODUCT.
1864
1865
1866....
Pounds Butter Po'nds Cheese
492,673
313,7.55
232,961
16,767,999
16,808.,S,52
18,172,913
1867.
ISfiS.
18:9.
Pounds Butter. Po'nds Cheese
204,.3g5
241,682
204,634
16,772.031
15,7.34.920
15,570,487
522
Appendix.
Price got for making ....
« " a ^
th O 1-1 1-1
«
Ot-I
T— 1
- « ie' . ej c5
" • 00
•^\« : \^^
. COt-N . CO©?
T-l .
TH CJ O'i
Pounds of milk to one of
9.74
9.8
9.8575
'9.3 "
9.67
9.975
9.885
9.78
Pounds of milk to one of
i>
t-
; OS : ; ; ; ; ;
: ; : r ; ;
Percent, of shrinkage..
i 00 • • • '• '. '.
Average weight dry
CO tH CO • ■* »o •' •
10 100 • »o 00 • •
• • • CO CO
• • • CO CO
. • • T— 1
Size of cheese
15&18
15 & 9
16 inches
15«fcl0
20
15 & 22
20&15
18
15
15
22
15
15
Average price per pound
^\ a '. : loosooio^oco
CO .^.. OS , cojoiocoj>co coos
CO cd»d' -^ . loioco'ioioco £>ic
r-' TH r-l . T-l . T-l T-l 1-1 T-l tH T-l T-l T-l
Pounds of cured cheese.
OS 0-*0 , (M CO CO IC CO CO CO T-l OS
00 Oi-lt- t» CO ?COT-llC-^t- iOO
'^^ ^,''^<^„ ®>, *2 CO__CO_lO^O\00_^C5 OS OS
t-
w
Gallons of milk
186,135
109,574
212,083
313,739
206,324
273,801
Pounds of milk
1,192,740
2,519,228
1,408,892
2,V2'5,i45
2,023,373
3,011,817
1,847,830
1,837,750
Average number of cows
00 T-l 10 • JO -OO -o • coo
2 £;?>; ■ <^ 2 •S'^ -^ • '^^
^ COlO- ^ -OOIO-OO- £-CO
Whole number of cows. .
S £: "^ ^ '^ cocoGo -oo 00
2 S":S <^ S- csoo-oo CO1-1
■* 00 -co ■Tti io OS CO • OS T-l 00 J>
o
1
Hi
Summit County..
Fowler's Mills,
Geauga Co. . ..
Bainbridge, do. .
Thomson, do..
Huntington, Lo-
raine Co
Mecca, Trumbull
Co
CI arid on, Geauga
Co
Auburn, do..
Troy, do. .
Huntsburg, do. .
3-eauga Co
Leroy, Lake Co.
Cliautauqua Co.,
N. Y
Arkwright, do. .
O .
BiJ
i2!
Twinsburg
Bartlett's
Slhanliope's
Smith's
J. M. Clark's....
Slia.vv'fi
Armstrong's. .. .
Cliester X Roads
Carter's
Sinclairville
Appendix.
523
CHEESE ST^-TISTICS.
The following tables in relation to the product of cheese made at different factories of
New York and the price at which it sold-going over a series of years from 1863 to lb71-
wiU be found useful. They are taken from the official reports of the factories sent tothe
Secretary of the American Dairymen's Association, and printed in the annual transactions
of that Society fi'om year to year :
CONDENSED KEPOKTS.
The following Table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese, average
mice, fnd averfige pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the several factories
from 'which full reports have been received for the year 1864 :
Name of factory.
McLean
Adams Cheese
Blodgett Mills
GUbert Mills
Oneida Cheese
Hart
Oneida Cheese
Roberts'
Wood worth '3
Higginsville
Peckaport
Frankfort • • :
Herkimer County Union
Manns ville
Parker's
Center Brook
C. H. Curtiss'
Decatur • .••;;•••
VVallkill Creamery Association
Philadelphia
Week's
Daniels'
Holmesville
Miller's «
Collins
Hawleyton
Coal Creek
Stevens
Charleston
Nelson
West Schuyler
Springfield Center
Mile Strip
West Exeter
Brookfleld
Orwell
North Litchfield
Deansville
Deerfield and Marcy
Stanley's
Scriba
East Berkshire
Ingraham & Hustis'
Whitesto wn
Turin
Sears'
Loraine
Brown's
Canton
B. N. Carrier's
Westcott's
Location and County.
McLean, Tompkins
Adams, JelTerson
Cortlandville, Cortiand
Gilbert Mills, Oswego
Oneida, Madison
Oneida Lake, Madison
Oneida, Madison
Floyd, Oneida
Yorkshire, Cattaraugus
Higginsville, Oneida
Eaton, Madison
Frankfort, Herkimer
Little Falls, Herkimer
Mannsville, Jefferson
Ward well, Jefferson
Otego, Otsego
Waterville, Om ida
Decatur, Otsego
Middletown, Orange
Barber's Corners, Jefferson..
Verona, Oneida
McDonough, Chenango
Holmesville, do
Consiableville, Lewis
Collins, Erie
Hawleyton, Broome
Coal Creek, Herkimer
Lowville, Lewis
Charleston, Montgomery
Nelson, Madison
West Schuyler, Herkimer....
Springfield Center, Otsego...
Fenner, Madison
West Exeter, Otsego
Brookfleld, Madison
Orwell, Oswego
North Litchfield, Herkimer..
Deansville, Oneida
Marcy, Oneida
Adams, Jefferson
Scriba, Oswego
Franklin, Vermont
Adnms, Jefferson
Whitestown, Oneida
Turin, Lewis
Cuyler, Cortland
Loraine, Jefferson
Columbus, Chenango
Canton, St. Lawrence
Average
number of
cows.
Am'nt of
c'd cheese
made in
pounds.
Watertown, Jefferson.
937
TOO
290
3o0
200
i20
245
850
475
460
600
300
'256
600
400
■536
500
400
580
851
265
475
760
335
575
550
300
360
500
200
250
375
275
1,032
400
400
too
600
600
730
770
400
375
■466
318
302,084
142.518
71,800
110,465
119,346
65,422
174,848
" 124,284
65,776
284,543
191,702
161,980
162.000
72,010
21,945
61,140
207,634
73,100
90,401
173,691
149,131
114,246
182,111
249,008
68,660
176,000
207,121
98,101
199,884
196,916
137,866
122,105
172,894
64,999
72,567
127,275
83,094
295,115
134,050
100,744
101,539
142,518
204,025
206,a33
206,897
106,000
114,429
68,032
126,625
91,639
21.90
21.29
21.14
21.75
24.25
21.70
21.70
21.33
20.07
18.80
20.00
24.00
23.09
22.70
19.68
2i!25
22.00
Av'e price
Av'e lbs.
per ft., in
milk for
cents and
one cured
fractions.
cheese.
9.60
23.09
9.95
21.00
10.12
18.96
10.10
13.32
9.87
21.42
10.-30
21.05
9.94
22.17
23.00
9.51
21.81
9.75
20.50
9.91
21.23
9.43
22.43
9.88
23.06
10.01
21.50
9.85
25.00
9.23
22.54
10.18
9.50
2i!68
10.26
21.31
9.59
• 19.50
9.75
20.62
9.80
22.77
9.64
20.73
9.85
21.80
18.80
10.00
21.60
10.16
22.25
9.84
19.69
9.78
9.71
9.97
9.85
10.07
8.31
10.00
9.90
10.38
10.26
9.90
9.35
10.00
9.95
10.05
9.58
9.93
9.72
9.64
9.76
9.59
9.52
524
Appendix.
The following table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera J
price, and average pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the seS factoS
Irom which full reports have been received for ihe year 1865 • idcioues
Name of Factobx.
Whitesb'iro
Willow Grove.
Location and Countt.
Whitesboro.
Trenton,
Oneida,
do .
chSfe:;::::::::::;:;::::::::-:- g^lf^dPatent, do
Foster's
Weeks'
Rathbun's
Herkimer County Union
Starkville
West Schuyler
Herkimer
Oneida
Lamunion'& C., No. Z.....
Hunt's
House ville , \
High Market ',\
Millers
Hall's ;.■;;;
Rees'
Barker's .'..'.'
SouthvUie
Olin's ■.;■.■,
Volney Center
Prattville
Gilbert's Mill
East Sandy Creek
Pans, do
Ourhamville, do .
Verona, do
Stittville, do
Little Palls, Herkimer..'!
Starkville, do
West Schuyler, do ..'.'.'.
Herkimer, do
Oneida Castle, Madison . .
Stockbridge. do
Hubbardsville, do ..
Houseville, Lewis....
High Market. do
Constableville, do
Barnes' Corners, do
Martlnsburgh, do ...
Richville, St. Lawrence.
Sduthville, do ...
Canton, do
Volney Center, Oswego! ! !
Prattville, do .
Gilbert's Mills, do
Average
number of
cows
Am'nt of
c'd cheese
made in
pounds.
^ast feandy creek E. Sandy Creek, do
PdHcer s. Wardwell, Jefferso
Rfnf"i"'j?'^^-; Henderson. do
Bunfoy&Co.'s Loraine,
F"',o" v-^---, Watertown,
Ingrahani & Co.'s lAdams.
Cayiidutta
Charleston Pou
Jr Corners.
Springfield Center ,.
Smith's
Center Brook !
McLean Association
Preeville Union
Burnham's
Canadawa
Coon's (4)
Throopsville
Simpson's
Beattie's ! ! ! ! !
Holmesville !!!!!
Brown's
Mai lie
Michigan Creamery..!!!!!!
waiikiii ;
Worcester Co. Association
East Berkshire
Mason s
Bartlett's
Baker's Dairy !.'.'
do
do
Adams, do
B'onda, Montgomery...!"
Charlest'n 4 Cor., do
Spring. Center, Otsego. . . .
West Exeter, do .
Otego, do . . '
McLean, Tompkins
Freeville, do .
Sinclairville, Chautauqua!
Ark Wright, do
Mina& Sherman, do
Throopsville, Cayuga
New Hudson, Allegany.
Trnxton, Cortland
Holmesville, Chenango...
Columbus, do
Maine, Broome .,
Middletown, Orange ..
Middletown. do !
VVarren, Massachusetts..!!
East Berkshire, Vermont..
Richmond, do
Fowler's Mills, Ohio !
Fairfield, Michigan
600
206.567
6S8
275,270
432
168,592
600
169,71 J
250
74,146
500
174,110
650
206,000
580
226,017
580
168,037
1,000
401,884
490
190,538
525
191.681
350
118,171
400
135.552
800
257.029
460
148,981
750
261,364
5fi0
125,752
150
.58,680
640
181,465
100
45,060
354
106,227
200
46,886
400
116,1.54
340
131,042
1,000
292,494
400
140, 18;}
135
66,847
800
220,865
ITO
42,453
875
262,800
845
323,436
600
]83,r,84
443
141,130
500
182,951
100
30.696
1,300
566,211
650
237,836
793
186.9,50
650
187,909
1,350
4911,000
450
125.000
300
77,198
600
222,453
0.50
219,0.34
500
179,206
200
39.560
92,000
87,ei86
450
].31,.379
800
233,351
80
29,600
071
255,.S90
46
29,440
Av'e price Av'e lbs.
per »., in I milk for
cents and one cured
fractions, cheese,
27,756
17.25
16.12
]5!96
16,00
15.89
16.27
16.50
]6!66
16.05
16.09
16.00
15.43
15.60
15.. ■)8
16.01
14.55
15.41
14.50
15.17
15.25
15.00
14.70
15.25
14.64
15.25
16!25
15!66
15.61
15.60
15.12
15.75
17.45
10.05
9.75
9.42
9.53
10.43
9.99
9.68
9.91
9.90
9.61
0.99
9.79
9.74
9.91
9.50
9.21
9.35
9.63
9.29
9.43
9.45
9.44
9.87
10.00
9.84
10.44
9.87
9.99
10.03
9.73
10.10
9.81
10.00
10.64
10.02
9.77
10.10
9,452,567
17!(;6
15.93
9.78
9.88
9.78
15!66
16.07
15.25
16.00
15.50 ,
16.00
9!69
9.82
9.84
9.66
9.75
15., S3
^7.00
l()!i7
9.50
15.60
16.60
9.80
15.76
9.81
The following Table gives the number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera-e nrice
average pounds of milk to one of cured clieese and averncrp wt;^ ,f= r ^^ l^ '
. several Factories, Iro.n which full Eeports haveS Scdved.'JS'the^ear' ImT
Name of Factory.
Whitesboro
A. nine's
Roberts' ,
Dorn's
Chuckery ,
Weeks'
Cedarville
First National
Lamunion & Clark's .Stockbridge, Madison
&"'^'i^.- Hubbardsville, do
g^^celsior Brookfleld, do
••^^P^re I Florida, Montgomery..
LOCTIOJf AND COTJNTT.
Whitesboro, Oneida .
North Gage, do
Floyd,
Ava,
Paris,
Verona, ..
Cedarville, Herkimer!
Frankfort, do
do
do
do
do
Whole
number
of Cows.
865
140
275
350
590
620
575
650
400
600
300
260
Shri'k-
age.
Per ct.
3
3^
i%
Amount
of cured
cheese
made, in
pounds.
311.881
59,277
82,100
96,716
168,561
212,975
233,802
259,064
118,412
183,479
97.000
77,784
Aver.
price
^ B)., in
cts. and
fract'ns
18.07
17.58
17.41
17.54
17.92
17. ,32
17.02
17.50
17.91
17.25
17.25
Aver
w't.
Aver.
lbs.
milk
for one
cured
cheese
9.8
Appendix.
Table for 1866.— Continued.
525
NAME OF Factory.
Charlei
17
16
15K
15>i
16
17
17
17
17
17
16K
16
14K
14X
14:^
14K
14>^
14^
14Ji
UVi
uy,
14K
14
14
14
14
14
14K
U%
It^
15
15!4
15M
15 5^
16
16
16
16K
16>^
16 V^
16M
Price of
Gold.
122
121%
120=^
121
120%
119K
118^
115>g
112
112
lll>i
lUH
113K
myt
115
115
115
114X
lU}i
lU'A
113>i
113
111
112
112
116^
119K
121K
121X
117M
114^
11651
114
114
114
113
114
113K
113K
113
lll>i
m%
lUX
112?^
111?^
lUK
110^
110^
noji
110^
1871.
Receipts.
Exports.
Price in
liiv'rpool.
Price in
N"w York.
Price of
Gold.
7
9,574
4,870
6,468
2,385
5,414
4,5.)3
3,967
2,993
5,3,30
5.938
6,927
8,012
6,856
3,519
4,092
2,860
3,608
3,636
5,164
9,141
16,029
22,&30
26,580
43,258
48,799
47,517
46,345
56,478
(57,679
59,986
7,150
6,685
6,C85
9,722
9,459
9,130
11,174
17,653
8,344
9,365
8.364
9,671
4,381
10,661
10,062
8,178
7,559
7,559
10,062
11,698
16,927
20,472
23,742
37,,543
37,293
45,533
41,.340
55,869
63,420
61„321
73s.
V3s.
73s.
733.
723.
72s.
72s.
72s.
71s.
71s. 6d.
71s. 6d.
703.
70s.
70s.
69s.
693.
69s.
69s.
66s. 6d.
663.
643.
633.
61s. 6d.
60s.
593.
58s.
563.
553.
533.
52s.
16 cts.
16
16
16
16
16
16
16X
16
16
15
15
15
14
14
15
14
13
13
13
12M
11^
IIK
11
110 j^
14
110^
21
110 ¥
28
110 ff
y 4
lUK
^ 11 ::...:::::::.::::::::;:
lUK
18
lUK
25
lUM
4
111
11
lllK
18
m%
April
25
1
il?^
8
IWA
15
mx
22
UlM
29
lllJi
May
6
UIK
13
lUX
20
112
27
111^
June
3
10
112M
n2%
17
112%
24
112>^
July
1
8
113
15
112%
22
29
112
112K
530
Appendix.
We take the following from the Farmers' and Meclianics' Manual:— "The milk of
nearly all animals contain the same ingredients. The best known varieties consist nearly of j
Caseine
Butter
Milk Sugar...
Saline Matter
Water
Woman.
1.5
3.6
6.5
0.5
4.5
3.1
4.8
0.6
87.0
100.0
1.8
0.1
6.1
0.3
91.7
100.0
Goat.
4.1
3.3
5.3
0.6
86.7
4.5
4.2
5.0
0.7
85.6
100.0
" One gallon o^pure water weighs nearly 8^^ pounds avoirdupois, hence a pint weighs
about a pound. One quart of milk, wine measure, weighs 35 ounces. One quart of milk
beer measure, weighs 41 ounces." '
LIST OF CHEESE AND BUTTEE FAOTOEIES,
AS REPORTED TO AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION, IN 1871.
N-R-W YORK.-94G FACTORIES.
ONEIDA COUNTY.- 94 FACTORIES.
Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows.
RoraeC. M. A Rome 650
Excelsior. do 6U0
Greenflelil's do
Cady's do 30O
D. U. Carpenter's do 600
Dick's do
Squires' Delta
RidKe Mills Ridge Mills 300
T. D. Roberts'... .. do 300
E. Lewis' Deerfleld 900
Tanner's Oriskany 700
Mitchell's Remsen 200
Thomas' :.. do 400
StarrHill do 100
Weeks' Verona 600
Bmrell's do 400
Verona Centr.al do 325
Willo w Grove Trenton 1,000
W.W.Wheeler's do 350
J.C.Owen's do 650
Powell's do
Whitaker's do 250
Wight's Wh i tesboro 900
Bagsf's StittviUe TOO
Deei-fleld & Marcy Utica 400
South Corners Vienna 400
Vienna, do 350
West Vienna West Vienna •
Blossvale Blcssvale 406
Glenmore Annsville 500
Bagg's H'jUand Patent 500
J. G. Cotes' do 400
J.F.Pierce's do 550
G.W. Palmer's North Brldgewater... 600
Deans villc Deansville I'OO
Hill's Westernville 200
Williams' do 200
Waldo's do 350
Kirklanil Kirkland 300
Wallace's West Branch 400
Countrvman's do
J. L. Dean's. Hecla 200
Lowell Lowell 600
Wood s Lee Center 500
Saxton's do 300
Charton's do 400
Capron's do . — •
Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows.
Northwestern C. M. A Northwestern
(Mil's do
Bionson's do
Verona Landing Higginsville 400
Doxtater's do 250
L. S. Davis' Florence 500
Cold Spring do 400
MadRiver do 250
Vernon Vernon 720
Clark's do 50O
M. Snell do 300
Bionson & Co Vernon Center 300
West Canada Creek North Gage 500
A. Blue's do 150
J.C.Blue's do 700
Briggs' Marcy Hill
Wood's Turin
Shepard's do
Franklin Franklin Iron Works .
Camp's Westmoreland
Cheney's.,. do
Hampton C. M. A do
Marshall's Watervillo
Curtis' do
Sh earman's New Hartford
Hampton Stanwix
Schuyler's do
Foster's Durhamville
J. H. Brook's Steuben
Chuckery Paris 450
Wilcox do
A. S. King's Sauquoit
A. Session's. do
A.Tucker's do
S. Thomas' Cassville
E. A. Palmer's Clayville
Union Grove Camden
Harvey's Boon ville
Reed&Co do 500
ICnoxboro Knoxboro 400
Rath bun's New London 400
NowLondonC. M. A do 300
Ray's North Bay
Spinnings' Taberg ,
G. M. Wood's Stokes
Hurlburt's Ava
Jones' do
500
400
350
500
700
250
500
500
300
425
590
250
300
200
150
AVAYNE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES.
Walworth Walworth 300
Butler Center South Butler 240
Williamson Williamson
Palmy la Palmyra
Safford's Sava nnah 175
South Butler South Uutler
Macedon Macedon 300
Wilbur's Newark
Lincoln West Walworth
Marion Marion
Lee & Sheffield Rose 400
Allowaf Lyons 500
Naing's do
CHENANGO COUNTY.— 24 FACTORIES.
Tuttle Col umbus
Hira ra Brown's do
A. R. Sage's New Berlin Center.
Holmes & Co.'s Columbus
George Buel's King Settlement...
Sherburne Sherburne
Smyrna Smyrna
Billings' do
Plymouth Plymouth
Buckley & Co.'s Oxford
Harrisville Sherburne
White & Son's do
230 Lewis Andrews South Otsellc
400 Holmesville Holmesville
800 Daniels' McDonough
600 Ijincklaen Lincklaen
600 Wheeler's do
700 Harrington do
Norwicn C. M. Co Norwich
Frink's do
Leach's do
Sage's South New Berlin.
350 Rich's do
Brown, Sage & Co do
650
600
500
532
Appendix.
CORTLAND COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES.
^ame of Factory. Location. JVb. of Cows,
Cuyler Village Cuyler 600
Cold Spring do 300
Isbell's do 250
Keeler's do 200
CnylerHill do 450
New Boston do 630
li. Sears' DeRuyter 1,000
Kenney Truxton 400
Beattie's do 400
Blodgett's Mills CortUand vlUe 300
East Homer East Homer 450
Wightman's Marathon - — -
Potter i& Barber's Scott 300
Name of Factory.
Location. JVb. of Cows.
Blodgett Mills Blodgett Mills.
Raymond's Freble
Kilt's do
Homer C. M. (^o Homer
Tattle's Freetown ..'.'.
Cincicnatus Cincinnatus
South Cortland S' iu*h Cortland
Meecham's Marathon
Brown's Taylor
Keeney Settlement Keeney Settiement!!!
Whitmarsli do
H. H. Smith's Apulia
Har 1 ord Harford '..'.'.
OSWEGO COUNTY.— 58 FACTORIES.
M. Pierce's South Richland 300
Gilbert Mills GilbertMills 430
Dick's Pennellville
Volney Center Volney 310
Whittemore's Scriba 500
Insell & Smith's Volney . '. 375
East Sandy Creuli East Sandy Creet
Robbins & Co.'s do 600
Suydam's do 400
Trumbull's Pulaski 270
Hull's do 300
Cold Spring do 300
Jones' South Richland 400
J.. Willis do 300
Blunt's Orwell 150
Union Colosse 400
Union Mexico 500
Weygint's Pratville 5:30
Banaska's Ph oenix
Morton's Orwell 600
Sweet's Phoenix ■
Smith's Hastings
Hastings C. M. Co do
Oswego Center Oswego Center 400
Bowen's Corners Bowen's Corners • ■
Wilcox's Oswego Falls
West Monrf)e C. M. A West Monroe ■
Titus & Wilson Hannibal
Gardner's South Hannibal •
Fairdale Fairdale
McMullen's Hinmanville
Mead's East Sandy Creek.
Bander's Caughdenoy
Smith's New Haven
Daggett's do
Donnelly's North Scriba
Southwest Os" ego
Vermill ion Vermillion
Smith's Volney
Hubbard's
Jennings' Palermo
East Scriba
Sweet's Schroeppel
Gregg's do
First National - Phoenix.
Central Square Central Square..
West Slanual
Granby Center
Rhodes Scriba
Union Sandy Creek
Union .. Scriba
Amboy Amboy Corners .
Smith's Fulton „ .
Looniis' Palermo
Clough & Co.'s Constantia
Cold Spring Richland
P. Wyman's Orville
Burr's Molino
200
400
400
~50ci
50G
250
lUfl
?6fl
472
13fl
250
22(3
150"
230
325
200
MADISON COUNTY.— 65 FACTORIES.
Norton's Eaton
Morse's do 600
Ingram's West Eaton 500
Pecksport Bouckville 4;0
Erieville Erieville .
Seymour's Lebanon
Smith Valley
Hill's Oneida Castle
Cazenovia Cazenovia
C. Bridge do
Blodgett's do
Perkins' do
Canaseraga Canaseraga
Elphick's Clock ville
North Cazenovia Chittenango Falls.
Chittenango do
Lebanon Leonardsville ,
Allard's Georgetown
Quaker Basin do
Torpy's do
Mack's do
Brown & Co.'s do
Beech&Co.'s do
Fletcher's do
Stafford's Penner
Solsville Solsville
Pine Woods Pine Woods
Baker's Eitrl ville
Chenango Valley do
Cowasalon Wampsville
Hunt's Hamilton
Keith 's — North Brookfleld. . .
East Boston East Boston
700
400
600
700
600
450
500
300
500
150
300
150
im
500
J75
200
300
700
(00
300
Chapman's Oneida Late
Hart's do
Morrell's do
Cole's Munnsville ...'.'.'.'.
Linckhi en DeRuyter
DeRuyter do
Kirkv'lle Kirk ville '.
Fletcher's Peterboro
Val ley Stockbridge
Adam's do
New Woodstock New Woodstock'.!
Hunt's Hubbardsville. . . .
Lamunion & Co Morrisville
Morrisville do
Nelson's Nelson .'
Ellison's Brookfleld
Excelsior do
York do
Union do
South Brookfleld South Brookfleld.
Bridgeport Bridgeport
Lakewood v do
Fort Bushnell's Lakeport
Gifford's do
Tucker's Mile Strip
Lenox C. M. A Canastota
Merrill's Madison
MadisonC. M.A do
Siloam Siloam
Pratt's Hollow Pratt's Hollow...
Shedd's Corners Shedd's Corners..
Downing's Pine Woods
250
150
350
300
600
500
760
450
600
200
400
600
600
200
350
225
200
250
300
273
400
JiOO
500
400
250
SCHUYLER COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES.
Cook & Co.'s Havana .
A Ipine Alpine.
DUTCHESS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY.
Sheldon's Stissing .
FRANKLIN COUNTY.— 6 FACTORIES.
Bombay Bombay Fort Covington Center Ft. Covington Center.
Malone No. 1 Malone Sargent's South Bangor
Fort Covington Fort Covington Patterson Chateaugay
Appendix.
533
LEWIS COUNTY.-39 FACTORIES.
laocation. No. of Cows. Name of Factory.
Name of Factory.
Sulphur Springs Lowville 800
FoUs' do 750
Hall's Biirnes Corners 200
Miller's Constableville 1,000
Wilder's do
McDonald's do
Valley do iaO
High Market High Marl;et ;... 460
Houseville Huuseville 800
Glensdale Glensdale 700
Sugar River Ley den 940
Wood's Turin 400
Bush's do 500
Shepherd's do 230
Williams' do 150
Evans' do 550
Carpenter's HouReville 150
Rees' Martlnsburgh 200
Dunton's do 350
New Bremen Crogan
Location. No. of Coiua.
Union West Martinsburgh. . .
Green's do
Kelsey's do
West Lowville West Lowville
Searles' do
Alexander do
Vary Harrisburgh
Clark's do
Lanpheie's do
Knapp's do
Union Deer River
Deer River do
Austin Denmark
Markham's Collinsville
Lyon's Lyon's Falls
Leyden C. A Leyden
Post's Port Leyden
Whitney's Copenhagen
Bent's do
MONTGOMERY COUNTY.-36 FACTORIES.
Charleston Four Corners. .Charleston Four Cor.. C25
Smith Creek B'ort Plain 1,000
Dunkle's do ■
Roof's do
Empire Burtonville 500
Florida do
Hallsville Hallsville 600
Freysbush Freysbush
Hessville Sprout Brook •
Cold Spring Stone Araba 500
Water ville Ames 750
Flat Creek Flat Creek 300
Brookman & Co.'s Fort Plain 600
Ford's Bush Minden 675
Cayadutta Fonda 800
Bates, Sneli & Co St. Johnsville 350
Snell, Smith & Co do
Humphrey's Charleston
Root Root
Wier's do
Glen Glen
Dief endorf s Amsterdam
W.Green's do
Dorn's do
Florida Minaville
S witzer Hill Fonda
Schuyler's do
Mohawk do
Cold Spring Palatine Bridge.
Union do
Failing's do
Gatesville Randall
Mother Creek St. ,1 ohnsville
Buel Buel
Mapletown
Kilts' Canajoharie
ORLEANS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY.
Cooley & Thompson's Albion.
STEUBEN COUNTY.— 8 FACTORIES.
Spalding's Howard . .
Bennett's do
Kanona Kanona ..
Wing's Campbell .
400 J. Davis' Greenwood
500 Mason's North Cameron ,
300 Spalding & Co Avoca
— - Sitterly 's Bath
ONONDAGA COUNTY.— 32 FACTORIES.
L. H. Webster's Fabius 500
Delphi Delphi 450
Salisbury's Apulia 600
Alexander's Lysander
Edwards' Manlius
Hopper's CoUumer 160
Hiscock's James ville
Seneca Bald wins ville 150
Spafford Spafford
Loomis' Cicero
Van Bramer's do
Sternberg's Cicero Center
S. L. Vail's Delphi ■
Elbridge Elbridge 400
Abbott &Rodgers' TuUy
Marvin's ..Jack's Rifts
500
400
450
800
500
300
690
GOO
500
270
450
YOJ
400
550
400
250
600
400
600
250
400
Belle Isle Belle Isle — -
Sherwood's Brevverton
DeWittC. M. A DeWitt 300
Talbot Fabius 400
Euclid Euclid ■
Navari n o Navarino 140
Kirkville Kirkville 450
Goodrich's Otisco 200
Little Utlca Little Utica 300
Betts' Ciirners Betls' Corners
Cole Settlement Fabius 150
Block do
Southard's Pompey Center
Palmer C. M. A Oran 250
Plain ville Plain ville 400
Youngs .: Euclid
Piatt's Plattsburg . . . .
Rouse's Point Rouse's Point
CLINTON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES.
.. • — • Smith Dale Peru.
COLUMBIA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES.
Hudson Hudson .
Chatham Chatham Center .
MONROE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES.
Genesee Valley Sonyea .
Riga Riga ...
Mendon Mendon .
Perinton Fairpurt .
Cold Spring West Farmington
Flint Creek Flint Creek
ONTARIO COUNT Y.-3 FACTORIES.
450 East Bloomfleld East Bloomfleld.
FULTON COUNT Y.-8 FACTORIES.
Stuart's Oppenhelm Center
Fulton do
Cross Roads Johnstown
StoUer's do
Cold Creek Brockett's Bridge •
Brockett's Bridge do —
Perth Center Perth Center 200
Slate Hill Ephratah 600
534
Appendix.
ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY— 16 FACTORIES.
Name of Factory. Location. No. oj Cows.
Clin & Smead's C;inton 675
Southville aoutliville 2u0
Kichville Rich ville 640
Jones' do
Potsdam Potsdam 500
Hailesboro Gouverneur 600
Sprai^iie Corners Shingle Creek 600
Russell Village Russell 500
Na7ne of Factory. Location.
Beech Grove Russell
West Canton Canton
South Canton Crary's Mills...
DeKalb DeKal b
Gouverneur Gouverneur . .
Pike's Shingle Creek
West Fowler do
Hermyn Hermon
No of Cowsi
oOt
45C
70C
WYOMING COUNTY.— 29 FACTORIES.
George Hoye's Attica • — ■
Java Village Java Vilhigre 450
North Java North Java
Stryker &, Co. 'a do — -
Empire Java 400
Arcade C. M. A do — -
Nile Nile
Bennington Bennington 400
Bast Bennington East Bennington 375
Arcade Arcade 500
Wells' do
Gas til e Castile 400
Gardlant's Attica ■
Chapman's Paris Center
Stephens' Dale
Tnzier's Johnsonburg -
Sheldon CM. A Sheldon ■
Wyoming Wyoming -
Chapman's Perry ■
Hermitage -
Orange ville Orangeville 600
Wilder&Oo.'s do ■
Strvkersville Strykersville ■
East Coy Pike 250
Lillibridge do ■
Empire East Pike -
Oatka Gainesville -
Cowlesville Cowlesville 450
Java Lake 350
NIAGARA C0UNTY.-4 FACTORIES.
Sanborn C. M. Company.. .Sanborn
Johnson's Creek do ...Johnson's Creek.
300 Mlrtdleport Middleport ,
J. C. Francis' do
BROOME COUNTY.-5 FACTORIES.
Maine Maine
Hawley ton Hawloy ton.
Killawog Killawog . . .
250 Squires Center Kirkwood
■ Page Brook Valley North Fenton.
WASHINGTON C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES.
North Bend North Granville..
North Bend Middle Granville.
Granville Granville
Fort Ann Fort Ann
• South Granville South Granville..
250 Middle Gran ville Middle Granville.
450 Greenwich Greenwich
• Hawley's Ford Edward
JEFFERSON COUNTY.— 72 FACTORIES.
Adams Adams
Alexander's Henderson ■
Antwerp Antwerp 950
A y ers Waterto wn ■
Babcock's Champion
Barber's Philadelphia
Bonfoy & Bettinger Mannsville •
Belleville Belleville
Bent Antwerp
B. P. Smith Black River
Brownville Brownville 400
Brown Water to wn
Benjamin & Co.'s Camp's Mills
Carter Street Stone Mills
Cascade Rutland
Champion Village Champion
Cooper's Evans' Mills..., ■ ■
Cold Spring Waterto wn — -
Cold Spring Belleville •
Cold Spring Roberts' Corners
Campbell's South Rutland 150
Dry Hill Watertown
Davis' Smith ville
Eames' Rutland 250
East Rodman East Rodman ■
Earll Carthaj;e
Ellisville Bllisburgh
Evans Mills Evans Mills 1,000
Excelsior Perch River
Excelsior South Champion
Farr Pierrepont Manor.... 225
Foreman's Woodville • — -
Griswold & Reed Lorraine
Gardner's Watertown
Grinnell & Co Pierrepont Manor 300
Hadsall's Felts Mills ■ — •
Heath's Adams Center
Hamlin Rutland
Harper's Ferry Rutland Center
Henderson Henderson ,
Howard Stone Mills
Lorraine Central Ijorraine
Li merick Dexter
Leffing well's Henderson
Mannsville Mannsville
Maple Grove Lorraine
M uscallonge Dexter
Mnzy's Smith ville
Pillar Point Dexter
Philadelphia Philadelphia
Pitkin's Lorraine
Rodman Rodman
Rodman Branch Burrville
Rogers' EUisburgh
Rogers' Lorraine
Rutland Valley Watertown
Sherman's Watertown
Springer's Redwood
Smith ville Smithville
South Champion South Champion
Springside Dexter
Sterlingbusli Antwerp
Tifft's Lorraine
Timmerman's Orleans Four Corners.
Warner Adams Center
Westcott Watertown
Whitesville East Rodman
Wicks Antwerp
Wil son Waterto wn
Wright Depau ville
Woodville Woodville
Worth Worth ville
27a
600
.100
135
325
300
300
300
775
GENESEE COUNTY.— 11 FACTORIES.
Batavia Union Batavia
Batavia C. M. A do
Byron Byron
Rich ville Pembroke .
Linden Linden
Stafford Stafford . . .
Darien Center Darien Center.
Oakfleld Oakflel d
West Bethany West Bethany.
East Bethany East Bethany.
Poster's Batavia
SCHENECTADY COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES.
Mariaville Mariaville Rotterdam
Appendix.
535
Name of Factory.
Ballston Ballston Center
Empire South. Gal way . .
SARATOGA COUNTY.-* FACTORIES
Location. Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory.
Location.
Galway Galway . . .
Charltuu ■. Charlton .
No. of Cown.
ORANGE COUNTY.-43 FACTORIES.
Circlevllle 400
Coilaburgh 225
Kockville Mlddletown 20J
Unionville 250
Walkill Association 375
D. Mulloclc's Middletown 250
Orange Co. AI. A Michigan 550
do do Chester 325
Gouge & Co Hamptonburgh 600
Bates & Co do 250
Gouije & Youngs' Florida 400
T.J. Taylor's do 175
Carpenter Howell Amity 415
do Warwick 350
Sanford & Smith do 300
H. Milburn do 250
T. Durhind do 150
Brown, Bailey & Co Edenville 400
Foster Clark's Wiokiiam's Pond 350
W. H. Clark & Co Minisink 300
Barton Spring ...Monroe 100
Parlor Bl ooming Grove
Wood's Chester 200
Kidd's Walden
J. F. Vail & Co • 450
Brown, Lane & Co 250
Wawanda 375
J. B. Halsey & Co 300
E. Bull's Chester 150
Bankers Brother's do 200
F.Davis' do 225
P. Holbert's Middletown 275
Mapes & Co do 425
James Hulse do 250
Wm.Mead&Co do 250
Christee & Co Unionville 300
O. F.Green Greenville 300
H. Rearaey do 125
Finchville Otisville 375
J. A.Wood Slate Hill 200
Howell & Co Monroe 400
Sugiir Loaf Sugar Loaf 550
Union Cond'sed Milk Co..NewMilford
GREENE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES.
Towner's Jewett.
Hunter'3 Creamery Jewett.
Smith's Ashland.
Kirkland Durham.
ALLEGANY COUNTY.-44 FACTORIES.
Simpson's New Hudson (
Reservoir Seymour (
Rushf ord Rush ford 1,(
Forsythe's Whitesville !
S. Sherman & Co Nile :
Richburg Rich burg. . , :
Curtis' do -
D. T. Burdick's Alfred ■
Greene's do -
Friendship Friendship ■
Center ville Centerville •
Ackerley's Rushf ord i
Barns' Fill more '
Andover Andover
Black Creek BlackCreek
Oramel Oramel
Niel
Wellsville Wellsville I
Lyndon Cuba '
Pettibone's Alfred -
Dodge's Creek Portville -
Jackson's Belmont -
Morley 's Whitney's Crossing. .
Flanagan 's Cole Creek .
Crandall's Dodge's Corners
Belvidere Belvidere
Rice's do
Granger Granger
Little Genesee Little Genesee
Carr Valley Almond
A. Congdon's West Clarksville
Babbit's Hume
Philips' Creek Philips Creek
Vandermarsh Scio
R. Smith's Cuba 350
West Almond West Almond
G. West's Alfred Center • •
J. Wilcox's Wirt Center 150
Wiscoy Wiscoy 200
Genesee Little Genesee 120
Elm Valley Andover 150
Angelica Angelica
Clean Olean 350
McHenry Valley Alfred Center 300
400
250
350
450
275
YATES COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY.
Italy Hollow C. M. A Italy Hollow
ERIE COUNTY.-54 FACTORIES.
Stickney's Collins 1,100
W. G. Huntington Pontiac 800
North Concord Concord
First Collins 800
Collins Center Collins Center 1,100
Brant Center Brant 550
Marshfleld Collins Center 1,100
Morton's Corners Morton's Corners.
Richmond & Co.'s Sardinia
Glenwood Glen wood
Dick & Co.'s Willink
North Collins Shirley
Kirby's Shirley
Young's Alden
Wheelock's
Gowanda Gowanda
Staffin's Collins
W. Smith's —
Ballard's
He nl er Gran d Islan d
Cotesworth Grand Island.
North Boston
Boston Center
Golden Colden
Marilla Mnrilla
Kimball's LancastPr
Cheese M. A Spring Brook.
600
500
400
350
Boston Boston 400
Concord Center Woodward's Hollow.. 500
Wales Wales 450
Paxton's Eden 600
Sisson 's Shirley 600
North Evans.- North Evans 500
Angola Angola 360
Brant Collins 400
Springville Springville 1,200
Blakelev's East Aurora
Jackson's East Hamburg 300
Hamburg Hamburg 300
North Evans North Evans 250
East Evans East Evans 300
Eden Corners Eden Corners 350
North Concord North Concord 600
Sardinia Valley Sardinia Valley 450
Newton Sardinia 250
Hosmer's do
WalesCenter Wales Center 400
Puller's do — -
South Wales Wales 450
Elma do 300
Burroughs&Co do
Francis
Farrington's Holland •
Moulton's Protection
Speedsville ,
TIOGA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES.
.Speedsville Jenksville
.Jenksville.
536
Appendix.
HERKIMER COUNTY.— 69 FACTORIES.
Name, of Factory. Location.
Herkimer Co. Union Little Falls.
Manheim Center do
Manheim Turn do
Newville C. M. A do
Rice, Broat & Co.'s do
G.W.Davis do
Cold Spring do
Top Notch do
Van Allen's do
Fairfield Association Fairfield
Old Fairfield do
North Fairfield do
Eatonville Eaton villa
IjOcustGrove do
Mohawk Valley East Schuyler
Richardson's do
Budlong's West Schuyler. . .
Warren's Warren . . .
Fort Herkimer Fort Herkimer...
Bellinger's do
Beckwith 's Cedarville
Cold Soring do
Stewart's do
Howard's do
Cedarville do
Smith's Fran Uf ort
A.G.Norton's do
Frankfort Center do
Russell's Russell's Hill
Wetmore do
D. Hawn's Stark ville
Snell's Russia
Nash's Frankfort Center
Rider's Cedar Lake
Stuart's Cedarville
Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory. Location. Ko. of Cows.
'i'OO Richardson's West Schuyler...
600 Skinner's South Columbia "
500 Kling's Paine's Hollow
860 Middleville Middleville 750
900 Northrup's Litchfield " 300
600 Kinney's do " goo
-^ Walrath North Litchfield;:!'." 300
450 Van HornsviUe Van Hornsville
Young's do
- — Lackey's West Winfleld
900 H.C.Brown's do
, 600 Wadsworth's do
600 W. Palmer's do
150 Edick's Mohawk
450 Mort's (Jo
360 J. Clark's Winfleld
300 B. Bartlett's do
400 North Winfleld North Winfleld
400 Moon's Russia.
400 Poliind Cheddar Poland
300 Herkimer Herkimer
— Herkimer Union do
— G.W.Pine's do
— Newport Newport
300 Morey's do
800 Cook, Ives & Co.'s Salisbury
— L. H. Carr's do
— W. Peck's do
— Old Salisbury do
— Avery & Ives' Salisbury Center
300 Norway Association Norway
BOO J.D.Ives' do .'.■
— Columbia Center Columbia Center
— J. Russell's Graefenberg
CAYUGA C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES.
Throopsville C. M. A Auburn
Moravia Moravia
Sennett Sennett
Carpenter's New Hope.
450 Ira Ira
250 Lincoln's Conquest Center.'
400 Port Byron C. M. Co.'s. ...Port Byron
Meridian Meridian
OTSEGO COUNTY.— 46 FACTORIES.
Wykoffs Richfield Springs 500
Bush's do
E. D.Lamb's Unadilla Forks ,. 350
Center Brook Otsego 200
Stocker & Fox's Bast Springfield 600
easier & Andrews Springfield Center 450
Hartwick Hartwick , 20O
Pitt Cushman's Edmeston Center 200
Col. Gardner's Burlington Flats 150
Ed. Gardner's do 150
Benj. Smith's Spooner's Corners 400
Brockway's Richfield , 400
Smith & Wilber West Exeter 400
Kly Creek Fly Creek 200
Park's Burlington Green 350
Parley Phillips' Unadilla Forks 200
Wm. L. Brown's do 200
Clark's Sch uyler's Lake 200
Edmeston Center Edmeston Center 750
Warren Chase's West Edmeston 250
Joseph King's Burlington Green 200
George Clark's Hyde Park 300
Nearing & Co.'s Butternuts
Russell Bower's Exeter
Perkin's do
Hind's Cooperstown ,
Hoxie's (Jo
Hoxie's Unadilla Forks.'"!
R. L. Warren's East Springfield...
West Burlington West Burlington
Parker's South Edmeston. .
Pope's do
L. N. Brown's West Edmeston...
Ed. Loomis' Richfield
L. O. Vebber's Exeter Center
H. & S. Smith's West Exeter
J.H.Pratt's do
Lyman Johnson Burlington Flats..
Colman's do
Newel N.Talbot's do
Hartwick Union Cooperstown
Chamberlai n's Richfield Springs.
Cherry Valley Cherry Vallev
Tuttle's South Edmeston . .
Rider's Schuyler's Lake..
Baker's do
400
200
300
CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES.
Hamlet Hamlet 1,100
J. E. Robertson's Busti 660
Clear Spring Fredonia 700
Burnham's Sinclairville 1,049
J. S. Hulbert's Forrestville 400
Villanova Vill anova 400
Brainard's Hamlet 650
Coon's (3) Mina 1,250
do Sherman 457
Canadawa Arkwright 680
Gerry Gerry 500
Cassadaga Cassadaga 400
SCHOHARIE COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES.
Sharon Center Sharon Center.
Seward Valley Seward
Hindsville Hindsville
Gardnersville Gardnersville .
Cobleskill Cobleskill
250 Argusville Argusville ..
200 Carlisle Carlisle
200 Barneyville Barneyville.
Esperance Esperance ..
RENSSELAER COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY,
Matteson's South Berlin
TOMPKINS COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES.
Dryden Union Etna
Groton Groton Hollow.
Ellis Hollow Ithii ca
Arnold's Ithaca
McLean Association McLean
600
500
700
Freeville Union Freeville
Slaterviile Slaterville
Peru Peru ville
Ridgway Creamery Caroline Depot.
600
200
700
Appendix. 537
CATTARAUGUS COUNT y.-55 FACTORIES.
Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Coivs.
Welch's Diiytoii Faimersville Farmersville 400
Perrysburgh Perrysburgh 550 Cook & Brotliers do
Ticknor's Versailles 5U0 Napaer do
Slab City Slab City J. K. Button's do
Ijeon Center Leon Center Ischua Ischua ,.
Randolph Randolph 200 Portvilie Portville - —
First Collins Uowanda TOO Clean Clean
Stebbin's Cattaraugus • Hinsdale Hinsdale ■
Waverly Waverly Cady 's Franklin ville • •
Safford Kast Otto Union ElUcottville 600
Union do McMahon's do
Tlffts' do 400 Meadow Valley do
Crump's do ■ Little Valley Little Valley
Ashford Ashford 600 Great Valley Great Valley
Westville Westville Merrilly's Napuli
West Ashford Ashford Hollow Lyndon Lyndon
Machias Corners Machias Corners Cadiz C:idiz 850
Wood worth's Yorkshire 450 New Ashford New A shf ord 400
Maple Ridge Falrview 660 Yorkshire Center Yorkshire Center 500
Gowanda Gowanda 550 New Albion 600
Dwight's do Jenk's Gowanda 1,000
Allen's Eddyville 350 Pigeon Valley 369
Maple Grove ElUcottville 200 West Valley West Valley 400
East Ashford East Ashford 550 B:iUard 400
Follett's Machals 400 Bigelow's Ashford
Lewis & Haskell's Sandusky -- — Vedder's Corners do
Elton Elton 400 Gamps Ashford Hollow
Kawson Rawson
CHEMUNG C0UNTY.-3 FACTORIES.
Bunnell & Horton's Millport 750 Van Duzer & Son's Horseheads
Rundle's Horseheads
OTTIO.-IOS in^CTORIES.
GEAUGA COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES.
Rocky Dell Bissell's 250 Colton & Co Nelson
Andrews' do 800 Spring Brook Welshfleld 300
Bartlett's Chester Cross Roads.. 800 Giove do 300
Bartlett's Muluerry Corners 300 Munson's Fowler's 400
Hood's Auburn 500 Pope's Welshfleld 500
Odell's do 600 Randall's Burton . 700
Smith's Ford 600 Hall's Claridon 400
Freeman's South Newbury 500 Armstrong's East Claridon 700
Hall's Fowler's Mills 600 Smith & Co. 's Parkman 600
Murray's Chardon 800 Armstrong's Huntsbu rgh 800
Randall's Chardon 700 Randall's Montville 800
Pope's Welshfleld 500 Murray's do 500
Russell 500 Smith's Thompson 500
PORTAGE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES.
B. B. Higley Windham H.F.Hudson Ravenna
Horr & Risden Shalersville Beman Spring Ravenna 250
H. S. Johnson Garrettsville Hinkley's Mantua
Hurd & Bro Aurora Burrows Freedom
Harmons & Root Aurora — — Aurora Grove Aurora 500
T. C. Bradley Mantua Anderson's Ravenna 300
I. C. Scram Ravenna
ASHTABULA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES.
S. E. &H. N. Carter Windsor 500 J. Pel ton's Wayne •
Lattlmer's .'Vew Lyme Wire's Austinburgh
Osborn's Morgan Weldon & Brown Conneant 400
G. C. Dolph West Andover Pierce's Eagleville ■
Austinburgh Austinburgh Harrington & Randall Morgan
Morley Bros Andover Alderney New Lyme
TRUMBULL COUNTV.-IS FACTORIES.
J. M. Trew Farmington Baldwin's Fowler
B. H. Peabody Kinsman Cortland Bazetta
Cold Spring do Raymond's Mesopotamia
Caldwell & Lewis West Farmington Cowdery & Craft's Bazetta
Farmington Center Farmington Center... Sager & House Bristolville
E. C. Cox Mesopotamia Harshman & McConnell's.Southlngton
do North Bloomfleld
HENRY COUNTY.-l FACTORY.
Ridgeville Ridgeville Corners...
FULTON COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY.
Royalton Royalton
LORAIN COUNTY.-S FACTORIES.
Camden Cheese Co Kipton Snow's Huntington..
Mussey & Viets Elyria G. H. Van Wagnen & Co.. North Eaton.
Horr & Warner Huntington Corning & Hanee Grafton
Magraugh & Whitlock Wellington Penfield Wellington ..
538
Appendix.
LAKE C0UNTY.-5 FACTORIES.
Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows.
S. E. Ctirter Leroy, Paiitesv'le P.O. Hitts Willoughby 300
H. N. Carter Perry Bartlett, & McKee South Kirtland
K. Freeiuan & Co Madison •
MEDINA C0UNTY.-6 FACTORIES.
McDowell Bros Medina
hello ws Chatham .
Benedict & Brooker liitchtield .
• — • Crane & Co Sharon ,
- — Colbetzes & Co Spencer
Chatham Chatham Center.
SUMMIT COUNTY. -8 FACTORIES.
Twinsbnrg Cheese Ass'n. .Twinsburg.
Wm. Wilcox Twinshurg.
S. Straight & Co Twinsburg.
do Hudson
Richfield West Richfield .
S. Straight «& Co Streetsboro
Oak Hill Peninsula
M. D. Call Hudson
ASHLAND C0UNTY.-2 FACTORIES.
Drake, Eaton & Co. 's Sullivan Clark & Bailey Sullivan.
HURON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES.
Haviland & Conant Greenwich...
J. W. Jenne New London.
Wakeman Cheese Co Wakeman.
A. J. Lockuvood Bedford
J. Q. Lander Solon . . .
CUYAHOGA COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES.
Wyatt's Brecksville .
ILJL,INOIS.-46 FACTORIES.
Hainesville Haines ville. Lake Co.
Burchard's Sumner, Ivank'ee Co. .
Patterson & Mix Momence, do
Wm. Keeiiey's Mantino, do
W. C. Kicliards Momence, do
W. A. Clark's Sherburnv'le, do
Wanzer & Co Herman, Kane Co
R. R. Stone's Richmond, McH. Co..
K.R.Stone's Spring Grove, do
Thompson & Abbott Greenwood, do
Huntley Grove Huntley, do
Marengo Marengo, do
Greenwood Woodstock, do
Marsh & Jackson Union, do
Boies ., Kingston, DeKalb Co.
Sugar Grove Aurora
I )unton Dun ton
Kennicott do
Cameron do
Perry do
Williams' do
Gould & Hammond's Hanover
Tuttle's Lodi
Gould & Hammond's Elgin
Barber & Co Polo
Albro «& Co Wayne
Win slow Shirland
Kilbor's Richmond
Buckland's Ring wood
Jones' Hebron
Conn's do
Woodstock Woodstock, McH. Co.
Riley Riley, do
Buena Vista Huntley, do
S|)ring Grove Richmond, do
G;irden Prairie Garden Prairie
Mead's Hebron
SI ilk Condensing Co Elgin
Rockton Rock ton
Stuart Bros Hebron, McHenry Co.
Oneida Rockf ord
Belvidere Belvidere, Boone Co..
Hal e Hale, Ogle Co
AVanzer's Hanover
do .. Elgin
Cameron Northfleld
425
300
600
400
350
3t0
400
500
KEISTTXJCKY.-S I^-A.C'JL'ORIES.
Chileshurg Chilesburg, Fay'te Co.
Clark Winchester, Clark Co.
Shelby City Shelby City
300
300
Versailles Versailles, W'df'd Co. 200
Madison County C. M. A.. Richmond
M:i]srN-ii:sox.A..-4 ih^ctories.
Anderson Mower City.
Wells Wells
Star Rochester.
Owatonna Owatonna.
^wiscoisrsiisr.— 34 e^ctories.
C. H. Wilder's Evansville, Rock Co.. 400
Springvale Nanaupa
Eldredge Af ton 200
Elkhorn Blkhorn 200
Rosondale Rosendale 600
Hazen's Ladoga 459
Sparta Sparta 200
Favil's Lake Mills, Jeff. Co . . . •
Barrett's Burnett Station
Coolidge Windsor, Dane Co •
Waterville Waterville, Wauk. Co.
Boynton's Wuu pun
Howard's do •
Johnson's do
Downey's do
Carpenter's Kenosha
Holt's do
Job n son's Kenosha
Long's do
Pierce & Simmons do
Truesdell's do
White's do
Fort Atkinson Fort Atkinson
Spring Mills Somers
Bullock's Rockton
Cold Spring Whitewater
Coburn's do
Drake's Lake Mills
Gilbert & Co.'s Hazel Green ,
Tappan's Morrison
Wilbur & Co.'s Wilmot
Strong & Co.'s Oakfield ,
Cochran's Trenton, Dodge Co.
Reigart & Ross Beloit
Appendix.
539
MiT^SSA-CHUSETTS.— S6 in^VCXORIKS-
Name of Factory. luocation.
Worcester Co Wairen
Union Hard wick
New Braintree New Brain tree..
Barre Central Clieese Co..Barre Center
Burre Cheese Co Barre
Southwest do
Hard wick Center Hard wick
Boise's Blandf ord
William.stown Williams town . .
West Brookfleld West Brookfield
Ijanesbciro' Ijanesboro'
North Marlboro' North Marlboro'
Lenox Lenox
No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs.
500 New Lenox Lenox
Cheshire Cheshire
543 Petersham Cheese Co Petersham
• Clieshlre do South Adams
375 Westboro' do Westboro'
125 Lewis Milk Condensing... West Brookfleld
500 Coy's Hill Cheese Co Warren 300
South Wiliiamatown South WUllamstown..
Walker's Greenwich • ■
Dana C. M. C Dana
Putnam's Belchertown
Slater's TyrinKham
Greylock South Adams
■verm:o:nt.-32 e"^C'jl'OK,iigs.
East Berkshire East Berkshire
Enosburgh Factory Co Enosburgh
North Euosburgh North Knoslmrgh.
East Franklin East Franklin
Middleto wn Middle town
Kose West Rupert
West Pawlet .West Pawlet
Hill Middletown
West Tinmouth West Tinmouth...
Norton's Wells
Valentine's Tinmouth
Ot»er Creek Center Kutland ...
Billing's Kutland
Slieldon's West Rutland
Wickham's Pawlet
Camp's Stowe
400
600
400
G25
475
100
125
200
Missisquoi North Sheldon.
Gleason's Shrewsbury
Mason's Ricliniond
Valley Hinesburg
East Poultney East Poultney..
WalUngf ord Wallingford .. . .
Williams' Danby
Rutland Rutland
West Orwell Orwell
East Orwell do
Hosf ord's Charlotte
Milron Milton
Milton Falls Milton Falls ....
Ferrisburgh Ferrisburgh
New Haven New Haven
Shoreham Shoreham
650
300
450
350
350
]MiCH:i&Aisr.— S2 fj^^ctokies.
St. Clair St. Clair
Fairflel d Fairfield
Horton's Adrian
Hoad ley 's Oakf ord
Saunders' Trenton
Smith's Augusta
White's Ceresco
Maple Grove Farraington.
Canton Canton
Beal's Rollin
Clayton Clayton
450
700
600
400
Spring Brook Farmington 400
Gilt Edge do 400
Ionia Ionia
Reading Reading 450
Fowler & Co. 's do
Adrian C. M. Co Adrian
Ames' Hudson
Sawin's Mattison
Utlca Utica
Welton's North Adams
Hillsdale Hillsdale
Holston .
.Saltville, Smith Co....
N^ORTJI C^T?,OLI]Sr^.-l FACTORY.
Elk Mountain Asheville, Bunc'e Co. 230
TEI^JSTESSEE.— 1 EA.CTORY.
Stratton's Crossville, Cumb'd Co.
KA.1S"SA.S.— 1 IHA^CTORY.
Americus Americus
Eagle Cheese Co.
COlMlSrECTICXJT.-l FACTORY.
.North Colebrooke
r>EisriN-SYiL."VA.isriA.-i4 factories.
Springville Springville, Susq. Co..
Bridgewater Bridgewater, do
Gage do do ..
Worth's Marshallton. Ch'tr Co.
Damascus Creamery Damnscus, Wayne Co.
Woodcock First Premium.Woodcock, Crawf 'd Co
Woodcock Boro' Cream'y. Woodcock Boro' do
158 Venango Venango, Crawf d Co.
200 Keystone N.Bichmond, do .
80 Cambridge Rockdale, do .
Ellis & Smith's Waterford, Erie Co...
New Milf ord Creamery New Milford, Susq. Co 200
Spring Hill Spring Hill, Bnid. Co. 150
Earl's Carthage 360
10A^A.-'7 FACTORIES.
Smith's Mason City
Hickling's do
Wyoming Wyoming, Jones Co ,
Clear Lake Clear Lake ,
Strawberry Point Fayette Co
Kidder's Enworth, Dubuque Co
Pierce's Belmond
540
Appendix.
Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs
L. B. Merrill's Merrillsville Brookman's Crown Point. . . . .' -
Smith & Son's Norwich, Ox,
Galloway's IngersoU,
Josiah Cfollins Mount Elgin
Moyers' West Zorra
Adams' Nissouri,
Wade's Cobourg
James Harris Ingersoll,
do Branch do
H. Farrington's Norwich,
do Branch... do
Chas. Banbury's St. Mnry's
Harris & Adams Mt. Elgin
Ballard's Negeer"s Queensville, do
Pearce's Tyrconnell, do
Middlesex Bowood. do
Smith & Cochrane's Compton, Pr. Quebec"
200
200
70
275
200
175
150
175
250
200
450
INDEX.
PAGE.
Abortion 108
Absorbing liquid manure with sawdust 83
Acid, Development of in clieese makinfr 4i3
Acidity in cream, Influence of in churning 501
Acids, Advantages of over rennet 359
— for coagulating milk over rennet 359
— Amount of required 353
— for coagulating milk 358
Agitator, Curd 407
— for stirring milk 453
Albumen 167
— in milk 322
Alderney bull 116
Alderneys as butter cows 115
— or Jerseys 114
Allgauer and Holland cows compared with other
breed s 176-177
American cheese 311
— — abroad. Appearance and comparative
merits of 276
— — Composition of 311
— and Cheddar processes compared 430
— dairy belt 7
Ammoniacal salts in cheese 428
Analysis of beets and turnips 98
— — leeuminous and other plants— Boussingault 85
— — milk and wliey in cheese making 336
— — poison cheese, Voel oker 474
— — skim milk and whey in skim cheese making 337
— — whey 319
— at three periods of manufacture 320
Annatto, Cheese spoiled by bad 327
— Description of 438
— Dry extract of or annattoine lu. ^uiter. 499
— Method of preparing 439
— Nicholls' 279
— — Knglish for butter 499
— Preparing at the Brockett Bridge Factory.... 439
A nnattoine 439
— Caldwell's analysis 440
— Receipt for cutting 440
Apparatus, Factory, Cost of 372
Appliances, Factory, Convenient 418
Ashes 66
— for eradicating mosses 66
Associated dairies 11
— dairying 362
— — Rise and progress of 213
Austin's agitator, Description of 454
Average product of cows 21
Ayrshires 113
— and Alderney, Crossing 115
— Crossing common stoclt with 114
Bad flavored cheese ; its cause 472
Bandages, boxes, &c 280
Bandaging machine 421
Barley, Composition of lOi
Barn, Absorbing the liquid manures in 36
— A convenient dairy 32
— An excellent dairy 33
— Another style of 36
— Basement for roots 33
— Clark's dairy 617-519
— Drive floors and bays 33
— Drive-way near the peak 33
— Fodder thrown downwards 33
— horse stable and carriage house 33
— Manure sink 34
— — cellars under 32
— Meadow Brook Dairy, Description of 34
— Klevationof 34
— Ground plan 35
— Moderndairv 31
— Stables for dairy 32
— Truesdale's, The manure cellar 33
— ventilators...., 34
PAGE.
Barn with four rows of stables 39
— without manure cellar 36
Barns, Dairy 31
— for cutting and steaming fodder 36
— Threshing 37
— Truesdale's, Feeding the cows 38
— — Preparing the teed 37
Beef and cheese, Relative cost of producing 12
Beets, American improved imperial sugar 96
— Cost of raising 98
— Distance between rows 97
— Harvesting 9"
— Plants in a row 97
— Preparation of soil for , 96
— Sin«linK and hoeing 97
— Time of sowing 97
Blue grass 73
Boiler and engine, Another new 385
— Vertical 385
— — Jones & Faulkner's 382
— steam generator, Clark's ,3S5
Bone manure 90
Bones to grass lands. Application of 56
— How to dissolve 65
Boxing cbeese for market 479
Branch factories 377
Breaking the curds 441
Breeding from healthy animals 108
— Excessive use of the male 108
— stock. Bad habits inherited in 119
— Tainting of the mother's blood. Examples of. 109
— What is to be considered 110
Buckwheat, Composition of 104
Bulls from good milkingfamilies. Importance of
thoroughbred 120
Butter, Eaters of, no such 10
— and cheese. Equalizing the supply of 11
— What constitutes good 46
— Cellars 496
— Character of good 483
— Color and texture of 485
— colored with carrots 499
— Coloring 499
— Composition of 489-500
— factory. Plan of Rockville 252
— factories. Expense and profits 240
— — System of organizing 246
— — The Orange Co 236
— — Water pools for 494
— firkins, Oak 512
— —White oak 495
— Freeing from buttermilk 484
— grasses of Orange Co 242
— Hairs in 511
— How to keep the salt for 511
— work 509
— Influence of washing 493
— in hard water districts 236
— its keeping qualities 483
— Losino' the aroma of 495
— made in New York in 1864 19
— making — American system 493
— — at Orange Co. factories 252
— the Queen's dairy 481
— — Leading principles for 482
— — milk room for farm dairies 484
— — Philosopbyof 500
— — Scotch method 498
— — Taints in 503
— manufacture 481
— — Modern method of managing milk 484
— marketing. The Captain's 246
— Ovor-working and upoiling the grain 508
— package and packing 511
— — Elmer's 513
— packages. Kind of wood for 512
542
Index.
\iiA
PAGE.
Butter packages— Preparing for use : 513
— Faclcingof 495
— pail and firkins 254
— — Philadelphia, description of .....'. 491
— — Westcott's oak .'.'.. 513
— Percentage consumed as food .".. 20
— — manufactured, table for '."'. 22
— Philadelphia, Making of ! 4H0
— Price of in London ..'. 10
— Production of in U. S. and Territories". ". .... '. '. '. 10
— Salt— its action 5O8
— The grain of .....' '. 508
— Washing ........'. 249
— Whey, Cold process 515
— —Hot process ...'.! 514
— worker "" 509
— — Corbin's 510
— — Orange county 253
— Working V.V."" 250
Buttermilk 497
— Composition of '. 500
Calves, Importance of freely handlVng " ". 120
— How to skin ' 140
— Raising of .■.■■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■ 147
— Raising, on the soiling principle 143
— stomach, The fourth for rennet 130
— When to be deaconed im
Can handles. Milk nti
Cans, Factory milk oq)
Cardingcowa ??n
Carrots, Coloring butter with.'.".".'.' 400
Caserne J^P
— shells. Influence of.' ."."." .'.'.'." isq
— Solubilityof *|^7
_'t m n^rf'?;,?"'' "^ 'I o f com Parati ve equi'vaients ." ." " ." 105
— Importance of acclimating 107
Cajiseof floating curds 2^1
Cellars, Manure 3?
— under cheese iactori"es]."!!.'!!! 4ja
Census, Are the figures correct 17
— Inaccuracy of returus 21
— report of 1870 Are the figures 'correct.'.".'.";.".":.".' 17
L-entritugal machine for cheese making 346
certificate of stock— Form for cheese factory
company ^ m-,
Cheddar cheese— its style..'. 97^
— — making ;;; o~\
— process, Principles of 4Si
Cheese, American '.'.'..'.'. 311
— — abroad— Appearance and riierits...'.'.'.'.'.' 276
~ Comparative merits of ' 27G
— — exports in 1848, '49. '50 214
~ '^'^oei'"'''®'' exports for ten years, from is'a's't'o"
looS 956
— factories, List of !!."."."."!"."."53i-540
— Home consumption of. 9
— — — made in United States in 1869..".".!".".".".""! 18
— — beef, Relative cost of producing... p
~ o?Piir'^'f"^ and making single Gloster cheese'.! 265
— associations— Old districts affected 234
— bad from imperfect salting "",328
— bandages, boxes, &c '" ' ^'^
— Cannon ball 4?n
— certificate of sale. qc^
— Cheshire of excellent 'qual'i't'y.'"! 344
— oairyin g as a specialty— Its history ! '. 213
— defects in American, bad flavor, &c .' 230
— districts of England.... o^a
— dressing room
295
— English, improvement "iii""k"eepi"ng,""c"h"ee"s'e
room, &e ^y^^'e., i^ui-ebe
— - - inquality .'.".".'.';.'.'.'.'.'."."."."." 994
— Errors m keeping.... oqa
— Experiments at Froces'ter Court.".""." 1%
— — Voelcker's §00
— ^''fnl8«)*'''6l^^®'^'^°'"'^'f ''0^1862 "to "1866:."^^ 284
— Extra rich, Arialys'i's'of!!!!'.'.'.'. lYn
— - fine. Process for making i! .';.'.".' .' 457-4fi'
— factory owned and managed by one person" sfi?
— =s^stim7n'N^«^'i^'''^^"l''««"'^tToSsfor :•- 366
^1863 ''^^'^ capital invested in
— factories, Advanta"ges"(3f"a cellar under!." m
— — Another form of organizing.... sfi^
^New'Yorlf.^f.**^'* ''"'^ Persons emprdyed'i'n
~ ~ inaugurated 'by j'esse" Wi'liiams" '.'.'.'. In
— — Notice to patrons, form for.. . qRi
— — Number built in 16 years 21fi
— — Regulations for oi?
— factories-Rules for organizing. .".■.■.■".' qm
— —The early " 'A2i
— Fancy f:ictory j^
— Flavor of, English standard" .".■.".".■."■.■.".".'.■.' ;;;;;::: i26
— from 't'ainted'mll'k! !!;.■;;;.".■ .'.■; Ik?
— Gloucestershire ,"."!.'.' Sr!
Cheese, Grafted *4fiT
— Hard, dry— How to improve!!!!!!!!!!!! i?q
— hoop followers Jot
— — and utensils, English '.'.'.!!".!!!!!!!!!! 293
hoops.. .„,
— how afi^ected by fungus im
— Keeping qualities 790
— madetromwhey o|?
— — Ijy centrifugal machine, Ana"l"y"8i"s""df! 349
— makers. Salary of flrst-class... iqq
— making, acids for 358" 35?
American and Cheddar processe"seom'pared: '430
— — at Avery & Ives' factory 4fiK
— — Coarse curds process iS
— — Cutting the curds.. JVn
— — Fish's views on heat...! 444
from a small quantity of milk.'Process!!!!! 469
~ — — — — number of cows 4fi6
— -Machinery ^qS
— — Norway factory !!!!! JSq
— — paying for by the Dound !!!! 365
— — Practical mistakes' in sja
— — Process where milk is sour...! 459'
— — lemperatureforskiramed milk...'.'. 448
— whole milk 440
— — under difficulties !.'! 453
— — use of sour whey 437
~ — beat in !!.'.'!!!!!!!!!!!! 442
— manufacture 436
— — cost in families !!!!!!!!'!! 220
— — English reduction of labor in. .'.".'. 289
~ — of, from small quantities of milk 436
— skimmed 495
— market at Chippenham om
— — The English "; 282
— Mellow appearance of 427
— Not ripening at too low temperat'iire'.!!!!!!!!!! 330
— of Somerset 260
— partially skimmed, Analysis'of!!!!!!!!!! 341
— per centiige. Manufacture table for "" 22
— — consumed as food '"20
— Practical faults in making ... 315
— press, A primitive aro
— —English 2%
— — Frazer'sgang !!!!!!!""! 403
— — log and how made 46a
— —screws m^
— presses. Factory 400
— — Herkimer Co., Description 'of!!!!.'!! 399
— Proper ripening of ' " 427
— Proportion of moisture in.... 497
— rack and setter 457
— Rectangular 41/1
— - Bandaging !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 416
— — Boxing Jj»
— — Curb and press for '.'.'..'. 41a
— — Description of making 412
— — press. Cloths for Ijg
— — Saving in boxes, and down weights.'.'.'.".".".""' 414
— — ■. hoops and screws 415
— Ripening of-How afl-eoted by manufacture'!! 448
— rooms Hot water pipes for heating 331
— sales. Blank for ^ ms
— Salting in the whey ?oq
— Salty taste of 4.I0
— selling at factories m?
— shipments from New i'oric and pr'i'c'es'in Lon-
don in 1866 and 1867 fSR
— Size of otS
— Skim milk. Making !!! 9^
— sold in New York in 1864 vi
— spoiled by bad rennut !!!!!!!!"! 323
— bigh temperature !.!!!!!!!""! 330
— not turning 330
— spoiling by breaking curd too rap"i"d"l"y! !!!!!!!!! 318
— statistics 523-527
— Si-ilton 428
— — and Cotherstoiie, Analysis of...'.'.'.".*."."."."."."""' 304
— — Characteristics of 429
— — improved by cream 343
— styles demanded abroad "278
— The Derby shape 278
— — young American 490
— trad e for 1869, '70 and '71 ".".".' '5'^' 529
— —of JO
— tub, Cockey's £35
— vat. Another form of heater under..'.'!!!!!!!!' 383
— — and heater, Millar's circulating 390
— — a utomatic, Description of 387
— — Oneida 393
— — with automatic heater !!.!!!!!!!!! 385
— Water in a good 493
r K ^V^ ^^^V'^ ; •■ .■.■.■.'.'.'.'.■.'.'.!262-264
Cheshire cheese making 275
— and Cheddar cheese. Composition of.'..'."." .306
Ch urn dash 249
— room and churning "".". 249
— Shape of the Philadelphia •. '. 491
Index.
543
PAGE.
Churning, Causes affecting 504
— Dog and stieep power for 507
— Duration of 501
— Experiments in temperature 483
— How to be done 483
— Power for 505
— the cream or the mills 498
— — milk, Dutch process 498
— too quick 488
Churns, Patent 495
Cleaning dairy utensils 353
— millf cans 355
Clover, AIsi ke 72
— seed and permanent pasture, Field experi-
ments on 57
Clovers, Value for milk lOJ
— Analysis of 102
Coagulating milk. Experiments In 357
Coarse curds process. Salting 465
Coloring butter 499
— cheese 433
— — for the Jjondon market 279
Common stock. Crossing with thorough-breds 109
Composition of cheese 297
Concentrated food, Injury from feeding 135
Condensed milk 193
— — Elgin factory 108
— — Knglish Company 197
— — Kxports from New York 202
— of 195
— — in Switzerland 195
— — Irish.... 19T
— — trade. Origin and development of 193
— — Two kinds of 201
— milks. Consistency of 201
Condensing factory. Provost's 201
— milk. Process of 197
— — • at Borden factory 197
— — The Borden factories 197
Cooking the curds 443
— —curd, Wight's views 447
Cooler, can and strainer, Burnap's 375
Cooling milk with ice 455
— — at the farm 373
— morning's milk 437
Corn — Analysis of varieties 81
Cottage cheese, how made 479
Cotton cake, compared with linseed cake 100
— seed meal 93
— statement of A. W. Cheever as to its
value for milch cows 99
— Voelcker'a views 99
— Analysis of 100
Cow, Marks of a good 121
Cows, Alderneys as butter 115
— Annual average product 21
— average number for factory 367
— bad habits inherited 119
— Best breed of for the dairy 106
— Breeding instead of purchasing 107
— calving 137
— change of food required 31
— confined to one field more contented 30
— driving from pasture 356
— drying them of their milk 125
— Escutcheon of for good 123
— in bad 124
— in mediocre 124
— Fall and winter food for 123
— feeding and management important 124
— Form of escutcheon for first rate 123
— good tempered. Value of 120
— Guenon's discoveries 122
— Importance of drawing all the milk 127
— good condition for winter 131
— shelter for 127
— in close confinement 130
— — New York in 1864 and 1865 19
— injured by exposure 128
— kept quiet 49
— Magne's, Classification of 122
— Milch for years 1840, 1850 and 1860, and ratio of
population 17
— Mr. Scott's management of 134
— not necessary to be constantly feeding 49
— Number for 1840, 1850, 1860, 1870 18
— — of in U. S. in 1869 18
— remarkablefor large yields 134
— Selecting for the dairy. 121
— teats— Wetting with milk 357
Cracked cheese. How to remedy 470
Cream affected by bad odors 503
— Analysis of 482
— two samples 497
— Composition of 500
— Density of 168
— How the English transport 186
— Scalding, For butter making 605
PAGE.
Cream spoiled in the churn 483
— strainer. Baker's 488
— Straining of. Fur butter 488
— Temperature of. For summer 495
— that first rises 488
— When ready for churning 500
Creamery Association of Wallkill 24'7
Crossing Alderneys and Ayrshires 115
Curd agitator rake 407
— Amount of water in, When ready to go to the
vat 316
— cutting implements 441
— filler 420
~ knives, Cast steel dairy 407
— Limits of temperature for improvement 317
— mills 408
— Precautions against too much whey 318
— scoops 409
— Water in. When ready to go to press 310
Curds, Drawing off 456
— floating 431
— Salting 449
— Why they should be ground 402
Curing room not to be dark 470
— — floors 423
— rooms. Appliances for 423
— — heat in 446
— — warmed by steam 447
Cutting the curds 440
— and cooking the food. Skinner's experiments. 1,36
— Stuart's exueiiments 136
— down the boxes in packing 480
Dairies, Associated 11
Dairy belt, American 7
— Company, Form of certificate for Stock 363
— compared with other liusbandries 7
— Country, Characteristics of a good 7
— district of Wiltshire 291
— flippers 408
— farm, A good 8
— — English management of 81
— — system of rotation in crops 82
— forms and fixtures 25
— goods. Over production of 9
— house, A small butter cellar for 43
— — cheese making room for 43
— — Cold spring water for 43
— — Curing room 43
— — for farm dairies 42
— — Plan and description of for farm 45
— — What is a proper one 42
— Interest of. Progress and magnitude in U. S. . 16
— practice, English 287
— product of Herkimer Co., N. Y 521
Ohio 521
— Products of in U. S. for 1840-1850-1860-1870 18
— — Com. Wells' estimates 25
— — of the U. S. in 1850-1860 254
— —Value in 1840 214
— Relative advantages 8
— stock. Education of 121
— — in Orange Co 246
— utensils, Cleaning 352
Dairying, Associated 363
— — European idea 362
— English and American points of difference
and merits 256
— Requisites to success 46
— Rise and progress of associated 213
Daisy, destroying 245
Dancel's experiments in watering cows 144
Decay, fermentation and decomposition. Prof.
Caldwell's views 188
Derrick and hoisting wheel 424
Devons 112, 113
Devonshire cream 166
Distance in delivering milk 372
Double curds 467
Drains, How to be laid 71
Driving cows 356
Dutch breed 116
— cattle as milk producers 117
Enclosures, Small, Poor economy 27
Engine and boiler. Another new 385
Exercise, Importance of for cows 127
Expenditure of food by respiration— J. B. Law's
experimen ts 139
Experiments on clover seed and permanent pas-
tures 57
— with centrifugal machine for cheese making. .347
Exposure, Cows injured by 128
Factory buildings ,367
— — and fixtures. Dr. Wight on 422
— — Cost of 371
— Herkimer Co., fancy 370
— reports. Ohio 522
— Sfinborn's 368
— Sinclairville, Main building 418
544
Index.
PAGE.
Factory site 2^6
— system, Advantages of ^22
— — Hauling the uiillc 23J
— — Its permanency 23o
— — Objections to 221
— ■weiglilng can g9g
— Willow Grove, Description of 368
Factories, Branch 377
— — Advantages of 380
— — Objections to 331
— Distances in delivering milk 372
— in Allegany Co., N. Y 535
— — Ashland Co., Ohio 5138
— — Ashtabula Co., Ohio 537
— — Broome Co., N. Y 634
— — Canada— Butter and cheese 5l0
— — Cattaraugus Co., N. Y 5«
— — Cayuga Co., N. Y 536
— — Chautauqua Co., N. Y 5.56
— — Chemung Co., N. Y 537
— — Chenango Co., N. Y 531
— — Clinton Co., N. Y 533
— — Columbia Co., N. Y 533
— — Connecticut— Butter and cheese 539
— — Cortland Co.. N. Y 532
— — Cuyahoga Co., Ohio 533
— — Dutchess Co., N. Y 532
— — Erie Co., N. Y 533
— — Fulton Co., N. Y 532
Ohio 537
— — Geauga Co., Ohio 537
— — Genesee Co., N. Y 534
— — Greene Co.. N. Y 535
— — Henry Co., Ohio 537
— — Herkimer Co., N. Y 536
— — Huron Co., Ohio 538
— — Illinois— Butter and cheese 538
— — Indiana— Butter and cheese 510
— — Iowa— Butter and cheese 539
— — Jefferson Co., N. Y 534
— — Kansas— Butter and cheese 539
— — Kentucky- Butter and cheese 533
— — Lake Co., Ohio 538
— — LewisCo., N. Y 5J3
— — Lorain Co., Ohio 537
— — Madison Co., N. Y 532
— — Massachusetts— Butter and cheese 639
— — Medina Co.. Ohio 538
— — Michigan— Butter and cheese 639
— — Minnesota— Butter and cheese 538
— — Monroe Co., N. Y 533
— — Montgomery Co., N. Y 533
— — New York State-List of 531-537
— — Niagara Co., N. Y 534
— — Ohio— Butter and cheese 537,538
— — Oneida Co., N. Y 531
— — Onondaga Co., N. Y 533
— — Ontario Co., N. V 533
— — Orange Co.. N. Y 535
— — Orleans Co., N. Y 533
— — Oswego Co., N. Y 533
— — Otsego Co.. N. Y 535
— — Pennsylvania— Butter and cheese 539
— — Portage Co., Ohio 537
— — Rensselaer Co., N. Y 536
— — Saratoga Co., N. Y 535
— — Schenectady Co., N. Y 534
— — Schoharie Co., N. Y 53Q
— — Schuyler Co., N. Y 633
— — Steuben Co., N. Y 533
— — St. Lawrence Co., N. Y 534
— — Summit Co., Ohio 538
— — Tennessee— Butter and cheese 539
— — TiogaCo., N. Y 535
— — Tompkins Co., N. Y 536
— — Trumbull Co., Ohio 537
— — Vermont— Butter and cheese 539
— — Virginia— Butter and cheese 539
— — Washington Co., N. Y 534
— — WayneCo., N. Y 531
— — Wisconsin— Butter and cheese 538
— — Wyoming Co., N. Y 534
— — YatesCo., N. Y 5,35
— Ingersol 1 378, 379
— List of Cheese and Butter 531-540
— Organization and selection of sites 225
— Popular method of organizing ,362
— selling cheese 364
Fairfield factory, Description of 368
Failing to face. Management of cheese when 448
Fall feeding cows 145
— management of cows 146
Fancy factory cheese, Herkimer Co 462
Farm dairies. Cooling morning's milk., 437
— English, Harding's *. 2f;8
— rents In England 268
Fiults practical in making cheese 315
Fjed, Spring and summer, for milch cows 137
PAGE.
Feeding cows for milk— Horsf all's experiments. . 141
— grain in summer 142
Fence, A light. How to make 28
— Board 29
— — How to make 29
— Interior, tor dairy farms 27
Fences, Log and rail 28
— Movable panel 28
— Picket 28
Fencing 26
— Bconomyin 29
— Employing an engineer for 27
— Expense of for farms of the State 26
Flavor, Delicate of Stilton 430
Floating curds 431
— — Grinding for 432
— — Iron's process for 433
— —Moon's process ♦ 434
— — Preventive of 435 ■
— — Remedy for 435 ■
— — Treatment of 436 11
Fodder, Barns for cutting and steaming 36 ■
Food. A good article needed 9
— Cheap and nutritious. Influence of 11
— Dr. Thompson's experiments with, for ani-
mals 103 1
— Economical use of 12 BJ
— Experiments in Dundee prison 15 Bi
— gained by steaming 38 ■
— Gold prices for different kinds 9
— Muscle making 14
— Producing cheaply 11
Gloucester cheese. Single and double analysis of. 307
Gloucestershire 264
Grades, Short-Horns HI
Grafting the curds 467
Grass, artificial. Green produce at Escrick Park. . 62
— compared wiih cotton, corn, wheat, oat and
potato crops— values of each 52
— crop, Importance of 51
— early and late cut, Relative value for cows 131
— — cut. Value of 133
— lands improved by irrigation 86
— — Liquid manure for 67
— — Management of 51
— — Seeding in spring 74
— — Top dressing of 55
— with artiticial manure 56
— gypsum 67
— — Treatment of rough surfaces 82
— Pecuniary value of 51
— Turning cows to., 142
Grasses, artificial. Table showing produce of 58
— Butter, of Orange Co 242
— for the dairy in England 266
— — pastures, Gib.son's views 72
— Influence of nitrogenous fertilizers 60
— Lawes' and Gilbert's experiments 60
— Milk producing varieties 66
— nutritive value of different varieties. Table for 85
— of Orange Co 242
— Standard varieties for meadows 84
Gypsum, Best method of sowing 67
— Composition of 68
— Quantity used per acre 68
— Valueof 69
Hair in stomach. Balls of 130
Half soiling 77
Hard fescue grass 73
Hay on Harding's farm 270
Heat, Best mode of applying 445
— Danger of high 446
— in cheese making 442
— in curingrooms 446
— Injudicious use of 444
Heater and steam er. Agricultural 396
— — vats, Position of 393
— Automatic 385
— — and cheese vat, Burrell's 385
— Millar's, Description of 391
— Old style self 388
— undervat, Ralph's 388, .389
— — the vat. Another form of 388
Heating with dry steam 425
Heifers coming in when two years old 120
Herds, Division of 26
— Large, unwieldy 26
— Sizeof 25
Herkimer factory 228
Holstein or Dutch cattle 116
Hoops, Cheese press 404
Horsfall's experiments 141
Hoven in cattle 150
— How to treat 151
Ice in cooling milk. Use of 455
— injuring butter 455
Improving hard dry cheese 479
Irrigation of meadows 86
IXDEX.
>45
PAGE.
Irrigation— Sincliiir's opinion B7
— UtilizinfT water from springs ." Sii
Italian rye grass 73
Jennings' pan 4'!
— milk pan 433
Jersey s 1 U
Jewitt's pan 4S7
June glass 243
Kindness on milking stock, Influence ol' 1;0
J^actouieter in court 155
Ijund, Misdirection in tiie use of ]G
Lice, Hutcliin's funiigator for destroying l:)2
— Means of destroying 1,02
liiminggrass lands Gil
Linseed lOi
— and beans, Milk and butter produced by feed-
ing 102
— Best way of feeding iJt
— cake lot
Liquid manuring, Application of to grass lands .. 83
— — l)r. Voelcker's views as to value 83
— — on Alderman Mechi's farm 83
Lucerne 102
— Analysis of 102
— Composition of 103
Machinery for cheese making 'iQi
Management of cheese when falling to face 413
— — cows, Scott's 134
Mangolds and turnips. Analysis of 93
— Jilxpeiise of growing 79
Manufacturing cheese by the pound 385
Manure, Bone 90
.- cellars. Convenience of 3S
•- — Practical bearing of 41
f- Truesdale's practice 38
Meadow fescue 73
— — ill Uevonshire 207
Meadows— cause of running out 133
— English system of management 81
— Getting a good turf on 133
— near Edinburg 83
— permanent 83
Milk, Absorptive properties of 103
— Action of rennet upon 183
— Adding lime water to for children 205
— affected by climate 17S
— the size and breed of animals 179
— and butter. Yield of, by feeding linseed and
beans 103
— as food 14
— Association, Orange Co 2.'>1
— — Ro.;kville 251
— lioiled less digestible 203
— Biirden'a condensing process 200
— business of Orange Co 240
— butter and cheese, Equalizing the supply of.. 11
— can, Tlie French 185
— Canning and keeping in good order 185
— cans. Cleansing and steaming 335
— — Factory 397
— — Open or closed 18B
— carried on Erie Railway 521
— cellar, Crozier's 484
— coagulated with acids ,358
— Coagulation of 187
— Experiments 357
— Color of 104
— Composition of new 390
— the products from, in making butter 500
— Condensing, Process of 197
— conductor 398
— consumed as food, table showing per centage
to each person 22
— consumption, per centage of, previous to 1801. 21
— cooler. Improved National 373
— — Northrup's 376
— coolers, Hawley's and Bussey's 373
— coolingat the farms 373
— Cost of producing in old districts 233
— transport to New York city 23
— Cows required to supply New "^ork city on
Harlem and Erie roads 22
— crop. Value of in 1860 23
— Delivery at factories 229
— Description of 153
— JClfect of agitation in traveling 185
carriage upon the cream product 186
— soils on its keeping quality 185
— Experiments in using 209
— Extra rich. Analysis of 339
— feverish, Its infectious character ....'. 184
— for skim cheese 41)7
— from cows inhaling bad odors. Injury of . .""!! 181
— — watering cows. Increase of 144
— Gallons sold in New York in 1864 19
— Globules. Description of ]68
— How taints in the dairy affect 193
— Improved by exposure to thealr while cooling 182
PAGE.
Milk— Influence of food in changing? the relative
ccjiistitueiits of .109, 5r!0
— influenced by food— Voelcker's opinion 177
— Its quality determined by breed Oiaiiirnals... 1?7
— — use and management for infants and child-
ren 202
— Kuhn's e.X|ierimentslor ranging its quality... 170
— L. B. Arnold's experiments in cooling 183
— nianutaeture when tainted 401
— Manufactured and used for food in Thirteen
States ill ISr.0 20
— Method of setting for cream 248
— Mineral matters of 168
— Neutral or alkaline 165
— of diseased cows 180
— pail for setting and cream dipper 249
— pails for setting milk 494
— — Millar's 353
— —Ralph's 354
— pan, Jewett's 43«
— — Jennings' 488
— pans, Jennings' 43
— p:ntiallyskimined, Analysis of 34."
— percentage consumed as food 20
— Phosphates in a gallon 65
— Plain and condensed 195
— product and value of in 1870 24
— production. Influence of fodder upon 170
— jiroximate acidity for cheese 2:J0
— Quality, How affected 109
— Quantity tor butter and cheese 241
— — Increased by forcing system 48
— — influenced by grasses 55
— — produced inflve days from different kinds
of food 103
— — received in the city at deiiots Erie, Harlem
and Long Island R. R., ISO! 22
— recent tests of i;o
— Relative nutritive value of 12
— Richness of Alderney 11,5
— Room for farm dairies 484
— — Regulating temperature... 494
— Rules for the treatment of at condensing
factor! es 199
— Secretion of.ahabit 1,33
— setting for butter. Best temperature for 485
— — in water pools 494
— Skimmed, Analysis of Z"^
— — as a diet In disease 208
— Speciflcgravity— A test of quality 154
— Spontaneous changes in '. 102
— Stirring, during the night i;^
— stock 246
— — averse to exercise 47
— — Good constitution Important 101
— Table showing its composition, resulting from
Dr. Kuhn's experiments with different kinds
of food 173
— -pec centage of minerals leo
— tester 421
— tests itju
— theflrstafter calving. Analysis of 179
— — souring accompar.ied by yeast iermeiit 192
— theory of rennet coagulation 167
— tinted by food 105
— to a pound of butter 238
— Pratt's report 497
— turned to most profit 499
— Treatment of the evening's mess 22;)
— Variation of, in quality from poor keep 132
— Water in... 47
— Watered, How to test 159
— Weighing the solids and the ash 162
— When ready for churning 500
— Woman's, Characteristics of 204
— yield per cow in Saxony no
Milkers and milking on Harding's farm 270
Milking 355
— for the London market 136
— Importance of drawing all from the cow 127
— Regular hours for 358
— Wettingthe teats ,357
— withdryhands 357
Modern milk pan 485
Mops, Rubber 409
Neat cattle. Number and value of 51
Neglect, Loss of cows from 128
New milk. Composition of 500
Normandy butler— how put up 481
Oats, Composition of 104
Ohio factory reports 522
Orchard grass 72
— — Complaint against, and how obviated 85
Organizing cheese factories. Form of 363
OviT-heating, Guard against 446
Packages badly made for butter 511
Painted cheese 4'71
Pastures, Breaking up unprofitable 55
546
INDEX.
PAGE.
Pastures— Chanfre of for eows SO
— Fresli cow dung objectiiin;ibie In- u7
— — produce scours 30
— How improved go
— — tolaydown "1
— Influence of location G9
— a good seed bed for seedin.-,' 71
— insufficient drainage TO
— not to be overstocked 31
— Old for fattening stock 54
— Overstocking, &c •')2
— Permanent 25
— Plowing up and re-seedin^r 53
— Seeding for and variety of seeds 71
— Sliades in 48
— Trouble with recently re-seedeil 6fj
— what kinds are best for the dairy 53
Philadelphia butter 490
Phosphates, quantity in a gallon of milk 55
I'igs, Feeding, Law's experiment 110
Pine-apple cheese liT
— Manufacture of i'J
Poison cheese ^7:3
— — Dr. Jackson's analysis of 4T;i
— — from damp and imperfect curing rooms 4i'5
— — Voelcker's experiments 473
Poor keep. Affect quality of milk ]'i2
Post holes. How to dig 29
Power, Slieep, Kichardson's 507
— for churning 505
Pre lace 5
Preliminary to cheese making 352
Press rings, llubber 4:4
— — Wooden -105
Rape cake 101
Heceiving platform at factories 4:i4
Rectangular cheese - 4!U
Red ti)p 72
Regulations for cheese factories 304
Rennet at Wall's Court, Eng., Preparation of 335
— English method of preparing 3.il
— Hallier's assertion as to its action V.U
— jar 3(10
— more nei;ded when milk is sinir 400
— Voelcker's experiments with 324
Rennets 359
— badly prepared 300
— heat affecting 192
— How to cure 359
— saved from healtliy calves 359
— steeping in whey 300
— straining the liquid 361
Root growing at York Mills, N. Y 91
Roots, Birnie's plan of raising and feeding 79
— for dairy stock. Growing 87
— Influence of the crop for rotation 95
— PulUng and storing 94
— Time and method of sowing 93
— Varieties grown at York Mills ; 92
Rough stalked meadow grass 73
Rules and regulations for Sinclairville' cheese
factory 36G
— for factory where proprietor purchases the
milk 366
Salt afferting the flavor of cheese 450
— cheese spoiled by too much 328
— factory Hlled 452
— How to distinguish good 453
— Importatnce of f or cows 143
— the kind to be used 451
Salting butter 502
— cneesefor hot weather 451
— — in spring— quantity 451
— cows 142
— the curds 449
Saltpeter— its use in cheese making 471
Sanborn factory— elevation 301)
Scales 410
— Boards 480
Schweitzer cheese 475
Scotch method of butter making 498
Sc(mrs produced by fresh pastures 30
Scratching poles 129
Scurfy cheese. Remedy for 472
Shade trees. Argument against, in pastures 49
Short-Hor ns 110
— — grades Ill
Shute for drawing curds 456
Sinclairville factory, manufacturing department. 419
Sink 419
— casters 409
Size of cheese— popular weights of 479
Skim cheese. Analysis of milk and whey 337
— — Manufacture 496
— milk cheese. Composition of 310
Skimmed milk. Composition of 500
8kipv)er3, How to v>revent 470
timuU enclosures, Cost of 27
PAGE.
Soiled stock, Health of 75
Soiling, advantages of 75
— Dr. Wight's exiierience 77
— Kinds of food to be used 76
— Manures saved in 76
— niilch stock 74
— Mr. Birnie's plan 7S
— Quincy's experiments '75
— 'I'lie common plan 80
— I'lme for sowing corn 80
— with fodder corn 80
Somerset and its system of farming 258
Sour Wliey, Use in cheese making 437
— — application of at farm dairies 231
Specific gravity of milk 154
— drawn from different quarters of the
udder 161
— Experiments with 158
— from different cows 155
— Influence of the molecular condition
of caseine 160
— varies in different day.s Ifti
— of skimmed milk 154
— watered milk 154
Spring and summer feed for milch cows 137
Stencil plates for marking 480
Stilton cheese 478
— —Size of 430
^ — Temperature low for 429
Stirring the milk during night 453
Stock of Somerset 260
— Selection, care and manageme t of 106
— t-hould be wintered well 132
Stomach, The fourth in calves 1.30
Stomachs of ruminants, Pre|)ari..g foud for as-
similation 129
Straw 103
— Analysis of different kinds 103
— Nutriiive equivalent compared with hay 103
Stripui ngs 179
Sugar of milk 168
Summer temperature of dairy regi'in 517-520
Sweet vernal grass 72
Swiss cheese. Manufacture of 476
Tainted milk 4(il
Teats, Short 114
Temperature, Best for setting milk 485
— for churning, H.vperiments in 483
— of dairy region— Summer 517-520
— Proper for gathering the butter 501
Thermometer, Dairy 409
— Using a good 490
Timothy 73
Top dressing after mowing 84
— — meadows. Influence of flne and coarse ma-
nure 84
— — with liquid manures 82
Turnip culture 89
— — Bone manure for 90
Turnips and mangolds, analysis of 96
— Harvesting, storing and feeding 90
— How to sow 92
— Manures for 92
— Time of sowing 93
Value of cheese product of 1865-1863 256
Vermont cow. Record of 133
Voelcker on composition of cheese 297—332
Voelcker's cheese experiments 333
Washing butter 502
— the tables and ranges 470
Water, Dancel's experiments with cows 144
— Good importance of for cows 143
— in curd when ready to go to press 316
— Influence of bad on stock 46
— Necessity of good for stock 46
— Wind power for pumping 47
Watered milk. How to tell 159
Weeds the curse of dairying 52
— How to kill 52
Weighing can 398
Whey, Application of sour 231
— at factories. Disposal of 376
— — farm dairies, A pplication of sour 231
— — three periods. Composition of 320
— butter, how made 514
— cheese. Analysis of 361
— composition of 319
— from skim cheese. Analysis of 338
— — extra rich cheese. Analysis of 3.39
— — partly skimmed cheese, Analysis of 341
— in cheese making. Sour 437
— — the curd. Caution against too much 3W
— sti-ainer and siphon 407
Wilts cheese. Manner of making 262
Wiltshire 261
— Warwickshire and Leicestershire cheese,
Composition of 309
Wire grass 24,1
VERY FEW MEN
Have ever made the manufacture of Churns a specialty, and have put into their
"work enough money, or time, or conscience, to make a really Jirst-class article.
The present manufacturers of ^'- The Blanchard Churn'' have been engaged
(father and sons) in the making of Churns for over fifty years ! They have devoted
much time to the scientific investigation of the process of Butter Making, and devel-
oping the best mechanical means for aiding it. It has been for many years their onli/
business. They have carefully observed and examined every new claimant for the
dairyman's favor. They have been constantly testing and applying improvements to
the Churn they have been making. They have been perfecting the machinery and
appliances of their factory. They have been untiring in their efforts to combine
every desirable quality in their Churn, and to omit every thing needless or compli-
cated. They believe they have succeeded, and confidently ofi'er
as combining more good qualities than any other Churn now made. It has been
made and used over twenty years, and there are now in successful operation over
No other Chum is made of as good material, or as well.
It cannot get out of order, because it is so simple.
St has no cog wheels or gearing.
It brings the Butter as quickly as it ought to come.
It works the Butter free from buttermilk, in the Churn,
without any change of dasher, quicker and better than it can be done
by hand. It works in the Salt in the same way.
It is a perfect AUTOMATIC BUTTER MAKER.
THE AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK,
Hon. X. »t. Willard, Jtairy Mditov of Jfloore's Jitiral JVetc-J^orkei', says of itt
" Your Churn has been in use in my dairy during the past season. It is simple in
its construction, is easily cleaned, and does its work in, the best manner. It is a
Churn I can safely recommend to butter makers."
HON. MASON C. WELD,
JLate ttssociate JSditof of tlte .Atnerican .tgrictiUttrist, says of itt
" I will not simply say that it does its work well, for we are very critical; but
will say it does it to our supreme satisfaction^ both in churning and work-
ing the butter. Of late the whole work has been done by a girl of fourteen."
Our Churns are now in general use in the dairies of the most intelligent farmers in
the country. They are on sale in every State in the Union, by all dealers in really
first-class Farmers' Implements.
WE MAKE FIVE SIZES.
No. 6, for about 12 gals, of Cream. Retail price, $9
No. 7, " 18 " " 10
Pnlleys famished for power.
SAMPLE CHURNS sent for examination and trial to towns where we have no
Agents, on receipt of 25 per cent less than our retail prices, and satisfaction guaranteed.
No Churns sent for sale on Consignment or Commission.
For Churns, Agencies, or full Descriptive Circulars, send to the Sole Manufacturers,
POETER BLANOHAED'S SONS, Concord, N. H.
No. 3, for about 2 gals, of Cream,
EetaU price,
$6
No. 4, " 4 "
II
7
No. 5, "8 "
«
8
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the cheapest uural aveeki.y !
the cheapest famiiiy journal t
ZIVIFXIOVED STlTSiS AND HEDUCED FRICE !
Each No. of the Rural New-Tohker for 1872 will comprise Sixteen Quarto Pages, (larger
than Harper's Weekly,) printed from New Type, on Extra Fine and Heavy Paper, and Illustrated
and Printed in the Higliest Style of the Typographic Art.
REDUCED TERMS, In Advancer-Single Copy, $2,50 per Tear. To Clubs:
Five Copies, and one copy free to Ag-ent or (retter-iip of Club, for $12.50 ; Seven Copies, and one
free, for $16 ; Ten Copies, and one free, for $30— only $2 per copy. As we are obliged to pre-pay
the American postage on pHpers mniled to foreign countries. Twenty Cents should be added to
above rates for each yearly copj^ mailed to Csinada, and One Dollar per copy to Europe. Drafts,
Post-OfBce Money Orders and Registered Letters may be mailed at our rislf.
1^^ Liberal Premiums to all Club Agents who do not take free copies. Specimen Num-
bers, Show-Bills, &c., sent free. Address
D. D. T. MOORE,
Rural NcTV- Yorker Office, IVe^r York City.
iflaorc's Stanbarb Uural |)ubUcotions.
The People's Practical Poultry Book.
A WOKK ON THE
BREEDING, REARING, CARE AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF POULTRY.
BIT W3M[. WZ. ItH^^lS.
This work contains Practical Information on
THE BEST BREEDS TO RAISE,
BEST MODE OF MANAGEMENT,
NUMBER OF FOWLS TO KEEP,
DRESSING AND PACKING,
PREVENTION AND CURE OF DISEASES.
CAPONIZING PROCESS,
INCUBATORS,
POULTRY HOUSES.
POULTRY ENEMIES, &c.
The work is the most thorough Treatise on the subject that has yet been
issued, and has won unqualified approbation from the Press, and from Poul-
try Raisers all over the country. It is
PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED
with Engravings, mostly from Original Designs by the best Artists.
WHAT TH£ FRZSSS SA'S'S OT IT.
From the Kansas Farmer.
For a tborougb and complele work, it is
the most, concise and direct ot any poiillry
book we are acquainted wilb. There are
single pns^es wortli tbe price of tlie book to
any one wlio keeps fowls.
From the Michigan Farmer.
It is the American ponllry hook of the
limes, witlioiit doubt, and Mr. Moore is en-
titled to !i vote of thanks for hrin^ing it oid,
as well as Mr. Lewis for writing it.
From the American Bural Home.
The author bns evidenlly aimed to bring
together tlie greatest amount of practicnl in-
formation from all soiu-ces within bis rencli,
and present it to the reader in a popidar
and convenient form, making his work espe-
cially valuable for reference.
From the Country Gentleman.
TffR author presents a book which will
be a convenient addition to the library of
any poultry keeper.
Fi'om the Rochester Daily Express.
The method of artificial hatching and
cnre of the young, is fully set forth, and the
most improved incubators illnstrated. Those
who liave bad years of experience in poultry
raising will find new and valuable informa-
tion in the chapter on capoinzing, AvbiJe for
tlie beginner and amateur the whole work
is indispensable.
From the JSf. Y. Daily Sun.
It is just such a book as every person
wants who keeps domestic fowls, either for
profit or pleasure.
Sent by mail, free of postage, for ^1.50. Address
D. D. T. MOORE, Publisher,
Rural Ne-w-Yorker Oflice, Wew Yorlc City,
jMoaxcQ Stanbflrir Bural |)ublicaUone.
NE^^ EDITIOlSr OF
The Practical Shepherd,
By HENRY S. RANDALL, LL. D.,
Author of ^' Sheep Husbandry in the South,'' ''Fine Wool Sheep Hus-
bandry,''' dtc, and Editor of the Sheep Husbandry Depart-
ment of Moore's Rural New- Yorker
This work is the Standard Authority on the
BREEDDiG. lAEGEMT Al DISEASES OF SHEEP.
The book contains all that is known of the subject up to the time of its
publication, and is universally acknowledged to be the
MOST COMPLETE WORK ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY EXTANT.
OFIlO'XOIiJS OF THIS FKESS.
From the Neio England Farmer, Boston.
The Pkactical Shepherd is a work that
lias loDg been needed by our people. It
should be in the liand and head of every
person owning sheep.
From the Country Gentleman and Cultwator.
As a whole, this book is unquestionably
in advance of anything of the kind now be-
fore the public.
From the Maine Farmer.
The name of tlie author, Hon. H. S. Ran-
dall, is a guarantee of its completeness and
reliability.
F'om the Neio York Tnhuv£.
In this volume the author has exhausted
the subject, and given all tliat is necessary
for any farmer to know about selecting,
breeding and general management of sheep,
in healtli or sickness. We heartily com-
mend this work to all who wisli for a sound
and tliorougU treatise on Sheep Husbandry.
From the Ohio Farmer.
The reputation of the author — who ranks
as THE authority in this country upon all
liiat pertains to the breeding and manage-
ment ot'slieep — will induce a large and con-
tinued demand for " The Practical Shep-
herd."
From the Journal of the N. Y. State Ag'l Body.
The Practical Shepherd is a most
complete work on Sheep Husbandry for
tlie priictical wool grower, and gives all the
important mailer required for the manage-
ment of sheep, as well as a description of
the various l)reeds adapted to our country.
This work meets the wants of the wool
growers.
From the Prairie Farmer.
The illustrations of sheep are by the best
artists of New York, and well done. The
letter press and paper are all that could be
desired in a work of this description. It
will undoubtedly meet with the large sale
its merits demand.
Twenty-seventh Edition now ready. Sent by mail, free of postage, for
Two Dollars. Address all orders to
D. D. T. MOORE, Publisher,
Rural I¥eTr- Yorker Office, ^ew York City*
LIST OF RURAL BOOKS,
FOE SALE AT THE OFFICE OF
RE'S RURAL NEW-YORKER,
Or Sent by Mailf j^ost-paid, on Meceipt
of Price,
Allen's [L. F.] Ameriean Cattle $2 00
Do. New American Farm Book 2 50
Do. Diseases of Domestic Animals 1 00
Do. Kui-al Arcliitecture 1 00
American Bird Fancier 30
American Pomology [i.'90 Illustrations] . 3 00
American Practical Cookery 1 75
American Rose Culturist , 30
American Sharp - Shooter [Telescopic
Kiile] 50
American Wheat Culturist [Todd] 2 00
Architecture [Cumrr.ings & Miller] 382
Designs and 714 Illustrations 10 00
Architecture, National, [Geo. E. Wood-
ward] 12 00
Arcliitecture, Principles and Practice of
[Loring & Jenny] 12 00
Bee-Keepers ' Text-Book, Paper 40
Do. Muslitt 75
Bement's Rabbit Fancier 30
Eicknell's Village Builder [55 Plates,
showing New and Practical Designs] 10 00
Bommer's Method of Making Manui'es. . 22
Boussingault's Rural Economy 1 60
Breck's Book of Flowers [ncu] 1 75
Bridgeman's Gardener's Assititant 2 50
Buist's Family Kitchen Gardener 1 00
Do. Flower Garden 1 50
Buit's V egetables of America 5 CO
Chemistry of the Farm [Nichols] 1 25
Choilt. D, T, MOOBB, PtCblisher,
XS.ux>a,l TVe^v-'Y'orlier Offi.ce,
IXETT irORK: CITY.
A
amOULTURAL PTEAMER
HAS NOT YET FOUND ITS EftUAL
ir-ort THE
(jUALITIES OF SAFETY, DOEABILITY.
UTILITY AND ECONOMY,
For Cooking Food for Stock, and for General Purposes about
the Dairy and Piggery.
— »♦« — -
We have the past season added pi. r?—. to get up steam -with thirty gallons
a Patent Flue to pass the beat and ^'^;;|^^^ of water in thirty minutes, by the use
flame around the boiler before reach- ^*^^^^^ of thirty-three pounds of wood, and
ing the stacli. This Flue can be [^"^^3 a good fire remaining. This Steamer
filled to any Steamer of our make at "^-^^^i can be had of any responsible dealer,
trifling cost, and with it we are able «a^^^*^ 1^^^^ if not found address as below.
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING FOOD AND USE OF THE STEAMER.
In setting the steainer, get a good draft, and let it be near the work to be done, and where
water in abundance is at hand to wet the fodder.
To Cooic Hay.— Cut It, wet It ivell, put it in upright tanks or caslcs, with false bottom and
tight cover, press it down firmly, puss the steam in under the false bottom, and cook until done.
To Cook Corn.— Soak as many barrels half full as you wish to cook from fifteen to twenty-
four hours, turn on steam, and cook until done, when the barrels should be full.
To Make Mush.— Fill as many barrels half full of water, as you wish to make barrels of
mush, bring the water nearly to a boil by passing the steam to the bottom, stir in each barrel IM
to 1% bushels meal uutil well mixed, then cook until done, when the barrels should be full.
To Cook Vegetables.— Fill the barrels full, and if no other cover at hand, chop the top
fine with a shovel, then cover them overwitli bran, meal or provender, and cook until done ; have
holes in the bottom of the barrels to carry off condensed steam.
To Scald Hogs.— Set a cask (if a box is not used) on an incline against your platform, pass
your steam to the bottom of the water until suflBciently hot.
To Wash Clothing.— Pass the steam into your tub of water to heat it to do the washing.
The clothes can be boiled after by steam in the tub, or any wooden vessel, without fear of rust.
To Scald Churns or Cans.— Put a small quantity of water In the article, pass the steam
pipe to the bottom, put a cloth around the top, and turn on the steam. Milk Pans can be scalded
in a tub of water.
In all cases pass the steam to the bottom to boil any substance, and shut off steam, or tnke
out the pipes when the cooking is done, as tlie boiler in cooling off draws the substance into it
and the pipes. Full directions for use sent with each steamer.
Prize Essays on Cooking and Cooked Food for Stock, with Circular containing price, cnpacity,
directions for use, etc., forwarded, postage paid, on receipt of ten cents. Circulars sent free.
BARROWS, SAVERY & CO.,
Manufacturers.
JAMES C. HABTB 6l CO., Factors.
Philadelphia, Sept., 1871.
Knox's Patent and Improved £a^le. Improved Swivel
—for Side Hill and I^evel Land, that leave no
Ridg^es or Dead Fnrro^vs. Boston Steel
Clipper. Sessions and liiiox's
Patent Hard Steel. Mapes'
Improved Subsoil.
THE AMERICAN HAY TEDDER,
Enables the most important Agricultural product of America to be cut, cured and stored in the
barn in one day. Improves the quality and increases the value of the Hay Crop. Prevents all
risk of damage from storms and sudden showers. Is simple, durable and of light draft. Was
awarded the New England Agricultural Society's only First Prize at the Great Field Trial nc
Amherst, Mass., in 1869, as being: superior to all others, and the best and only perfect machine for
tedding or turning hay.
THE PERRY GOLD
Burt's Self.Adjusting- Horse Hay Rake. Boston Horse Hoe.
Frencli's Patent Cultivator. Harring^ton's Patent
Sin^si'le or Combined Seed. So-wer and
Hand Cultivator.
AMES PLOW COMPANY,
Manufacturers of Agricultural Implements and Machines, Dealers in Seeds, Fertilizers and other
requirements of Agriculturists and Agricultural Districts. Factories at Worcester and Ayer,
Warehouses, Quincy Hall, Boston, and 53 Beekman Street, JVew York,
^"ORDERS FILIiED PROMPTLY.
Price Lists and Descriptive Circulars on application.
JONES, FAULKNER & CO.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
earn Dairy Apparatus.
IRON-CLAD MILK CANS AND PAILS,
PRESS SCREWS AND CHEESE HOOPS,
CHEESE AND BUTTER TRYERS,
TORNADO, BLANCHARD AND DASH CHURNS.
DEALEKS IN EVERY DESCRIPTION OF
DAIRY FURNISHING GOODS.
We keep constantly in stock
UPKIGHT ANI> HORIZONTAL.
For Factory use, and also for Steaming and Cooking; Food for
Stock.
STEAM PUMPS, HAND FORCE PUMPS, STEAM PIPES,
VAXaVES, COCKS, aAUG£S, %VBIST£cES, &.c.
THERMOMETERS \m MILK-TESTL\G INSTRUMEXTS OF ALL KI^DS,
We are prepared to fit up Cheese Factories, on
short notice, -with everything" com-
plete for operation.
;^° Send for Illustrated Price r.ist.
Nos. 31 GENESEE & 6 JOHN STS.,
Utica, N. Y.
Near Bags's Hotel.
Jk. rF'TTT ■!- - SIEST OIF
They extract the animal heat from the milk and keep it at the desired temnPi-nfiM-^ ,•„
^^iviSVy^fa^t^^A^l'^^^^^^^^^ profitable, and are adapted to lar^^e and small
READ THE TESTIIMEOM-ZAILS :
Pans ove^\.TM^^''n'^fr7;u;geme^\%7or\''uUe7^^^^^^^ "^Vh.f,T t';"\'' «"Pcriarity of the Jewett Patent Millc
, „ ™ ' '" ' ■ A. M. BENNET.
butter sens J,"^J!i^f;^J? ai^'/fol- tCL^^Lfs^rn^^'.^fn'not'lrVve'^'o'Jf 4hT^^ "j/r^^";* °'-''«'- """' ^^^^ ^<^-t -^ the
after all the disiidvantAKes «"iich I Imve l" bOTed n^ *"";' f'''^ estimate: but I can say,
satisfaction. My pans are l.rjre eno Kh for fifty cows • 'l IWvt 1 ari n v'l'A"' f l^ ^"^^' .T °*''« ^'^'^ «^eat
elevate the water about ten feet and i( t-ikps fli.mir fl^» i,.,r.ViT?„ . ^ twenty-seven the r>:ist season. I
one-flfth more butter, wlueh sol 1 for five rents r.reDernn[,nd ^Tf7<.^""'°i''T^.",""" '",'""• """^ "-'kes about
dairy than with tlie small milk pan^^ I woukl smt fnr^h.To^fflf^Vf. "''"*''','^ ',*^*» lal.ortotake care of a
that It can be used for the pans an 1 therconduc'tid into -i tronih'forV'ff'i;'"? 'l"^*^ to elevate tl,e water,
them in the Urst place. I am s6 well leased 'n"th the nan, t^^^^^^^^^ ^""^ "^ ^''®." "-^ '" ''"'"P '* foi^
cows aniither season, and procure another set of puns ^ ' increase my dairy to one hundred
Brasher Iron Works, N. Y., Sept., 1S7I.
^ R. W. SMITH.
set of^he'j|;?tf Pafe"n\'' M^yrp'msimnL^,^"^.^ ^•'^^'"'•^^ ^\ ^nlone, N. Y.. have had in use three
other arrangements for mlk nl. b t i'/. nnd^w! ;'f7""^'f.!3 !'/?.«"««'?."' to give it the
the weather hot or cold
condition ; it makes b
Kde^croveran'othT/arrangem^^^^^ These advantages ,rre"s„fflcientlogive"i't The
men everywhere. 'irrangements for making butter, and we recommend it to the attention of d'lirv!
Malone, Sept. 22, 1871. SEYMOUR L. ANDRUS
J<>HN C. Win.IAMSON
LEVI M. ELDKED.
E. REEVE.
territorTror'Ivln'clfto"mnn'*uf^^^^^ ^'^ pnrohase terrilory, or to secure
Bunsro.^ r-rnnklin Co., N. Y^^Ji^^o^^y^f, ^^r4^^L'ThrJe^iV^dT,f,^.-:;^:^tT^f. «• ^- *^^^^^-' ^' ^^th
Malone, F^Sn Co." i?. ?!^{]:; *„" vl^^ Srri'nThVfo'r^'fJ^^f J'^'^ York,*nddress L. R. Towsend,
place, and ,s an authorized agent for theSe of al/unsold tenTtory:^ '"''^""^•'^'''"'•«« t"^'» ^^ ^^at
_ L R. TOWNSEND,
Malone, Tranklin Co., N. TT.
B. F. JEWETT,
Worth Bangror, Franklin Co., KT. Y.
xjTic^, isr. Y.,
MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN
Cheese Factory an
^sLKrx> sxj:e3^=*XjI:ie3s.
In the apparatus line, wo would call attention to
THEONEI
(See Pages 389 and 391,)
The Best and Cheapest Vat in the World.
It is suited to all classes of Cheese Factories and Dairies. Over 1,000 are alreadj' used in
the former, and 1,500 in the latter.
S^~ It will innke more cheese from a eiveii qiiniitity of milk than can be mtide by
nny other apparatus, and with less of labor and fuel. Superiority of quality is an
invariable result.
N(i additional expense is incurred in setting up; it is ready for ttse. Simple in construc-
tion and operation, it is readily understood, and not liable to any accident in use. Tliere is
nothing to explode about it, nor any parts to fill up by hard water scale. The heating is
perfect in all respects, and easily controlled. It is very durable.
■WE ALSO SELL
STEAI AND "HOT WATER CIRCDLATIE" APPARATUS
For Cheese Factories, and all articles and fittings for setting up same.
CUED MILLS,
FEESS HOOPS
AND SCREWS,
And all otiier implements and articles nsed in ciieese-making'.
A GOOD ASSORTMENT OF
e-Makers' F
ngSy
^ucli as KEi\I\ETS, best Irfrnds; AiVrVATTO, dry and extracts;
PRESS and BAIVI>A€iE CI.OXUS, <&c., &c.,
al'%vays on hand.
We shall endeavor to "keep up with the times" in being able to supply all new inven-
tions, if of value.
Descriptive Circulars and Prices sent on application. Address
WM. RALPH & CO., Utica, N. Y.
IMPORTAIVT TO MIRYMEIV, STOCK-RAISERS AND FARMERS!
(COPYR-IOHO?.)
NE FILIN
]VATURE'S O'WN CONDITION POWDERS,
(PA-TEISTT ^I>JPLIEr> FOR,,)
FOR FEEDING
CimE. STOCK OF ffl mis. JIIID POETRY,
OF BOTH SEXES, ALL AGES AlVD EVERY CONDITIOIV.
Prepared from pure, selected, hard bone, by a formula originating- with ourselves Guaran-
teed by analysis g-iven below and to contain no injurious or deleterious substances. For the use
of stock ot all kinds, it is recommended by the highest and best authority in our own as well a^
foreigri countries. Being rich in Fhosphatic matter, in a concentrated form, it sunolies the
animal directly with the elements so essential to the promotion of a rapid growth of BODY
BONE and MUSCLE elements, of which the soil has been totally depleted by constant cropping!
An undoubted remedy for the dairy scourge— aboHion in cows. r j " lui^t-iug.
"^.A ''^Py °* *^® essay— "The Abortions of Cows: What is the Cause and what the
Kemedy?" sent on receipt of 3-cent P. O. stamp. ^ ^^^
To place this valuable compound within the reach of all, we have put it in small packages,
as well as barrels, and will be sent by express, as directed, on receipt ot the price :-Bbls., $13 each!
JraCKages, o ID., 51I ; iU ID., 51J-10 each.
Address JOHN RALSTOX & CO.,
170 rront St., Wew York, Sole Proprietors.
AISTALYSIS.
SHEFFIELD SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL OF YALE COLLEGE. )
New Haven, Conn., Sept. 16, 1871. J
comp^sulon hf IM^partfr''* ^""^ filings," received from John Ralston & Co.. New York, has the following
Moisture o on
Sand "-SV
Chloride of Sodium [ o'™
Bone Phosphate of Lime .......'..'.'.'.'.". 57 ^
/-. , . (With some Magnesia and Fluoriiie not separateiyestimat^^^
Carbonate of Lime j v;o.,iuia,i,cu.^
Ossein (yielding gelatine) with a little fat .....'.'.'.'.".'.".'.■.'.'.'.'.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■;.■.■.■.■.■ 25!?5
Rodinm^'^ ^''™^'® consists of F^rj/ Pwre Bone, in a state of fine division, with 2% per cent.Tf Chloride of
soaium. Lfeigned,] SAM'L W. JOHNSON.
JOHI\a RALS TO N & CO.,
170 Front Street, ]Vew York,
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN
OP KNOWN EXCELLENCE ONLY. (GUARANTEED BY ANALYSIS.)
Wo. 1 FERUVZASr GUAZrO (Chincha or Guanape),
Direct from the Gov't consignees. In original packages-2,340 lbs. to ton-at gold prices.
CLES^f L^L^^Si^5F?fiS^S?_^^ MATTER, and ALL ARTI-
LEACHED ASHES, FISH SCRAP and NOVA SCOTIA PLASTER FURNISHED BY THE CARGO.
quota^ro^L"Snrr^7t?o^fc!L:lflTti^creiiT^^ ^"**- D-eriptive Circulars and reliable
tion gulffietdlaTvery'caleT^" ^''''' *° P"'^'''^^^ ^'^ ^°^"^airy and Factory Vats, >vitli Impi-oxed
Heaters ; Large Factory Vats, complete, >vitlt Fipes tor
I>istri1>ution of Steam ; Card l>raii»ers ; Presses ^
Hoops ; Scre^vs ; Carrying Cans ; ^Veigli-
ing Caas ; Sackers ; Conductors,
* &c., &c., &c.
We use only the best materials, and employ the most experienced workmen in making thes<
jroods. In this way we are able to guarantee everything to be of the best quality in market
A trial could not fail to convince of this.
FACTORY AND DAIRY SUPPLIES.
There has been, heretofore, no place this side of the State of New York, where a full list oi
Dairy and Factory Supplies could be obtained at all times, and on short notice. We have determ-
ined lo supply this need, deeply felt by the dairymen of Ohio and the West, in whose interesty
our business will be conducted, and the continuance of whose patronage, so liberallyextended tu
us during the past, we earnestlj'' solicit for the future.
AVe shall endeavor to keep constantly on hand a full assortment of Cheese Bandage
Strainer Cloth, Annatto, Annattoine, Rennets, Factory Filled Salt, Curd Knives,
THERMOMETEtiS, MILK-'I'ESTING INSTRUMENTS, SCALES, CURD SCOOPS, MiLK PAILS, and in faCt
tvcrything wanted in the manufacture of Cheese.
^^ Seud for Circular and Price List. Please state where you saw this notice.
B. B. ROE 6l CO.
CHARLES MILLAR & SON,
Wo. 1S7 and 129 Genesee Street, Utica, W. Y.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
MILLAR'S PATENT CIRCULATING
COIL HEATERS AND CHEESE VATS.
PositiTely the 1>est clieese-malfing apparatus in tlie ^rorld. In
use ill tlie l>est Cheese Factories and private dairies
tliroug-hout tlie United States and Australia.
gag~ Satisfaction guaranteed in every case.
ALSO, MANtTPACTURERS OB"
MILLAR'S PATENT RATCHET CHEESE PRESS SCREWS,
PATENT MILK CAI^S,
MILK PAIL8,
CAN HANDLES,
CURD AGITATORS,
AND OTHER GREAT IMPROVEMENTS IN CHEESE FACTORY AND
DAIRY UTENSILS.
MILLAR'S RUBBER PRESS RINGS,
an invention of decided value. They prevent the curd from pressing- up around the follower
of a cheese hoop, and take the place of press cloths. In pressing- after the cheese has been
bandaged, they prevent tiie bursting of the bandage at the edge. This of itself renders them
invaluaNe to the cheese-maker.
Iil^~ Illustrated Circulars, siviiigr full information, mailed on application.
Address CHARLES MILLAR & SON,
Utica, N. IT.
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