.^:^ ^^ %■ ... . .^^ -^ a\ o 1^ c . 'v-. I ' -^ , J. -^ ^ o^ -^^^ o^ '^M-S^ o^ -7^. J0:' ■S ,\^ <^ , \ ■Ox"

\, x^^ ■% % .^^ ^\ ^\ _rC^.^.v ' . ^ ^ ;, X -^ / x^ ci- c^^ •■/ :^ 0- -0 -A. '-- ^X^ ' =.:® ?r -^c ■^^> ,^\^' x^^' A •^j ■■>- o ^ <• « '/ '-- / ,0o. ^0 ^0 ^^ ^ ^ ' -^ JESSE WIEEIAMS, ORIGINATOR OF THE AMERICAN CHEESE FACTORY SYSTEM. WILLAED'S PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY: A COMPLETE TEEATISE ON DAIRY FARMS AI^D FARMING,— DAIRY STOCK AND STOCK FEEDING,— MILK, ITS MANAGEMENT AND MANUFACTURE INTO BUTTER AND CHEESE,— HISTORY AND MODE OF ORGANIZATION OF BUTTER AND CHEESE FACTORIES,— DAIRY UTENSILS, Etc., Etc. X. A. ViLLAED, A. M., "" o^- Editor of the Dairy Department of " Moore's Bural New- Yorker" and Lecturer at the Maine State Agricultural College, Cornell University, Etc., Etc. FULLY AND HANDSOMELY ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: D. D. T. MOOEE, PTJBLISHEE, EUEAL NEW-YOEKEE OmOE. 1872. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by D. D. T. MOORE, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. FBESS OF „ ~~~~ '- ' WTNKOOP & HALLENBECK, Smith & McDougal, Electrotypers. 113 Fulton Steeet. HEW TOBK. . INDEX TO PARTS. PAGE. Pakt I.— INTRODUCTOEY 7 II.— DAIRY FARMS AKD FIXTURES 25 III.— MANAGEMENT OP GRASS LANDS 51 IV.— STOCK— SELECTION, CARE AND MANAGEMENT OP FOR THE DAIRY 106 v.- MILK 153 VI.— ASSOCIATED DAIRYING — ITS RISE AND PROGRESS 213 VII.— ENGLISH DAIRY PRACTICE 287 VIII.— COMPOSITION OP CHEESE 297 IX.— VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS 333 X.— PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKING 352 XL— CHEESE MANUFACTURE 426 XIL— BUTTER MANUFACTURE 479 XIII.— APPENDIX ....516 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE. Agitator, Austin's 454 — Rake 467 AlderneyBull 116 — Cow 117 Automatic Heater and Cheese Vat 386 A yrshire Bull 114 — Cow 115 Bain, Large Stock, Elevation of 400 — Engine room 401 — Second floor 401 — Sectional view of frame 401 — Meadow Brook, Elevation S4 — Lower floor 35 — Upper floor 35 — Model Farm 517 — Basement 518 — End view of frame-work 519 Bull, Alderney 116 — Ayrshire 114 — Devon 112 — Holstein 118 — Short-Horn 110 Butter Bowl and Ladle 250 — Factory, Ground plan of Orange County Milk Association 251 — Rockville 252 — — Weeks', Elevation 492 — Ground plan of .' 493 Butter Packages, Orange County 254 — Pail, Return 254 — — Westcott's 513 — Worker, Corbin's 512 — — Orange County 253 — — Bound lever 512 — Workers with fluted rollers 511 — — Cortland County 510 Can, Factory weigliing 399 Castor for Curd Sink 410 Cheese Hoop. English, Expanding 293 — Mammoth 3-0 — Press, Factory 401 — — Frazer's Gang 413 — — Oysten's Herkimer County 400 Churn, Orange County 249 — Tornado 507 Churning by water power 504 Conductor Head 399 Cow, Alderney 117 — Ayrshire 115 — Devon 113 — Escutcheon of bad 125 — first-rate 12! — . mediocre 124 — Holstein 118 — Native 109 — Short-Horn Ill Cream Gauge 159 — Strainer, Baker's Excelsior 4b9 Creamery, Ground Plan of Walkill 248 Circulating Coil, Heater and Cheese Vat, Millar's 391 Curd Mill 408 — — Ralph's American 409 — Scoop 410 Dairy Barn, Meadow Brook Farm 34 — Lower floor 35 — Upper floor 35 — Dipper 409 — House, Cheese 44 — Basement 45 — Second floor 45 — Knives 40') Dashers, Churn 249 Dog Power for Churning 508 — Emery's 508 — Old style 507 Elmere Butter Package.... 513 Engine Boom for Barn 41 Factory, Ground Plan of Truxton 227 — Herkimer, End Elevation Manufacturing De- partment 228 — — Front Elevation 228 — — Ground Plan of 229 — Ingersoll 378 — — Ground Plan of 379 — Milk Cans 396 — Newville, Ground Plan 3T0 — — Second Story 371 — —Third Story 371 — Sanborn S'iQ Fill er. Curd 4 Firkin 254 — Half 254 Frame for Milk Cooler Water Tank 376 Pumlgator, Hutchins', for Destroying Lice on Cattle 152 Gate, Weigh-Can 399 Gauge, Cream 159 Glass, Cream 159 Grass, June 243 — Meadow Fescue 244 — Orchard 244 — Poa Compressa 245 — Red Top 243 — Sweet-scented Vernal 245 Hand Power for Churning— Horizontal Shaft 506 Handle, Can Cover 398 — Side 393 Handles, Milk Can 398 Heater 394 — and Vat 392 — for Cooking Feed for Stock 395 Holstein Bull in — Cow 118 Hoops, Cheese Press 404 — and Wooden Press Rings i 405 Horse Power for Churning, Richardson's 609 Jar, Rennet 360 Knives, Dairy 406 Lactometer 156 JNlacliine, Cheese Bandaging 421 Meadow Fescue 244 Milk Can, Factory 396 — —Iron-Clad 397 — Cooler, Burnap's 375 — — Bussey's Improved 374 — — Hawley's 375 — — Northrop's .■ ,376 — Coolers 374 — Factory, Ground Plan of Provost's Condensed 202 Mop, Rubber 4:0 Native Cow 109 New Boiler and Engine ,^^6 Oneida Vat and Heater 389 — — Cross Section of 390 Pail, Flat-sided 410 — for Setting Milk 494 — — — the Milk, and Cream Dipper 249 — Philadelphia Butter 491 Pan, Jennings' Milk 486 — Jewett'sMilk 487 Pans, Milk, Diagram of 486 Per Cent. Glass 169 Pipes, Heating 393 Poa Compressa 245 Position of Heater and Vats 393 Plaster Sower, Seymour's 68 Press, English Ceeese 291 — Oyston's Herkimer County 400 Presses, Factory 401 Puncture, Point for in Hoven 152 Rectangular Cheese Curb and Press 414 Red Top 243 Rennet Jar 3(i0 Return Butter Pail 254 Rubber Ring 405 Sanborn Factory, Basement 370 — — Ground Plan 370 Scales ; 411 — Jones' Stock 412 Scoop, Curd 410 Screws, Cheese Press 402 Sectional Steam Generator and Boiler, Clark's.... 383 Self -Heaters 388 Short-Horn Bull no — —Cow Ill Spring-pole Power for Churning 504 Stock Barn, Large 40 — — Second Fluor 41 — — Sectional View of 41 Stomach, Cow's first 151 Sweet-scented Vernal Grass 245 Tester, Milk, Glass Tubes for 422 Thermometer, Dairy 410 — Floating 156 — Nickel Plated 156 Tin Mil k Pail . Ralph 's 354 — — Pails, Millar's 353 Tornado Churn 507 Trocar 151 Vat, Oneida Farm 396 — Ralph's Oneida Factory 389 Vats and Heater 394 Vertical Engine and Boiler 384 Water-Power for Churning 505 Weigh-Can Gate 399 Whey Strainer and Siphon 407 JPREF^OE. Up to the present time there lias been no Standard Work on Practical Dairy- Husbandry, or upon the improved American methods of manufacturing Butter and Cheese. A book treating of these topics has long been needed, and this work is designed to meet the wants of tliose who are looking for a safe, practical Dairy Manual. With more tlian twenty years' experience in Dairy Farming, and an acquaintance from extensive personal observation with the best methods of dairy management in this Country and Europe— accustomed to the practical handling of Milk and the manufacture of its products— in fine, having made a specialty of this branch of industry, the writer ought to be able to discriminate between the practical and merely theoretical in dairy management. Dairy Farming in this country is no holiday aflFair. The men who engage in it are, for the most part, seeking useful information— sucli knowledge as may be turned to a good account in their business. In other words, tliey seek to learn how Dairying in its several brandies can best be made to pay. With lliis standpoint in view, no theories have been recommended which cannot stand tlie practical test of usefulness. I am not insensible to the favor with which the results of my experiments and observations have been received, or to the confidence reposed in me by American Dairymen. 1 can only say that I have been earnest for improvement in this branch of industry, and have labored lieartily for tlie advancement of the whole Dairy Interest throughout the whole dairy districts of our country. The work here presented is not a compilation— though I have not hesitated to quote from other writers whenever their statements seemed to be useful. In malcing such quotations I have aimed to give proper credit, since nothing seems to me more repre- liensible in a writer than the appropriation of another's labor and brains witliout due acknowledgment. Among the papers to which special attention is called are those of Dr. VoELCKEU on the "Composition of Cheese" and " Ciieese Experiments;" also on "Recent English Dairy Improvements," by Mr. Harding of Marksbury, England. Tliese papers hitherto have not been in an available form for the American reader, and will be found, it is believed, both interesting and valuable. In a few instances I have selected matter from my own pen which has appeared in the Rural New-Yorker, Western Rural, and other publications ; but for the most part the work has been freshly written, and gives the most approved practice in dairying as conducted at the present day. I trust it will not be deemed out of place here to say that I feel under deep obligations to the Press for the uniform courtesy extended to my various contributions to Agricultural Literature, througli a long series of years. Profoundly grateful for these favors, I can only hope in the present instance that this volume may be worthy a candid criticism. And that it may prove useful to the class for whom it is intended is the sincere wisli of the Author. X. A. W. Little Fal,t,s, Herkimer Co., N. Y., 18T1. INTRODUCTORY. THE AMEEICAN DAIET BELT. The gteat American dairy belt lies between the fortieth and forty-fifth parallels of latitude. It stretches from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, and possibly to the Pacific. Within its limits are New England, New York, Pennsylvania, the Northern parts of Ohio, Illinois and Indiana, the greater portion of Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, and a part of the Canadas. Of all this belt probably not more than a third of the land is adapted to dairying. The dairy lands are quite irregular in outline, lying not always continuously together, but often detached, and not unfrequently, if repre- sented on the map, would have the appearance of islands. THE CHAEACTEEISTICS OF A GOOD DAIBT COUNTRY are, high, undulating surfaces ; numerous springs and streams of never failing water ; a soil retentive of moisture ; a sweet and nutritious herbage, that springs up spontaneously and continues to grow with great tenacity ; a rather low average temperature ; frequent showers, rather than periodical drouths, and sufficient covering of the ground in winter to protect grass roots, so that the herbage may be permanent or enduring. Doubtless within the limits of the United States, on high table lands, or on the lower slopes of mountainous ranges, there are soils eminently adapted to dairying ; but we have no large and continuous stretch of country, like that to which we have referred, where the business naturally would develop itself into a specialty. DAIRY COMPARED WITH OTHER HUSBANDRIES. In my opinion, upon this Northern belt of dairy lands, there is no descrip- tion of farming that promises better prospect of remuneration than the dairy. I refer now to farming in the broadest sense of the word, where thousands grow certain products, and compete with each other in the great markets of the world. If one happens to be possessed of land in the immediate vicinity of towns and cities, upon which market gardening may be conducted with facility, that land may without doubt be put to more profit in growing vege- tables than in dairying. Fruit lands, eligibly situated and intelligently man- aged, may also be a source of greater profit. 8 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Limited specialties of this kind, in Avhich only the few comparatively can engage, must not be embraced in the statement. Compared with other great interests of the countiy, such as the production of wheat or corn, and other cereals, the raising and fattening of stock for the shambles, sheep hus- bandry, hop growing, and the like ; each and all are inferior in their re- munerative prospects to the dairy. In the first place, the milk producer enters the great markets of the world, with less competition than he who is engaged in almost any other branch of farming. He has a wider range and a more diversified product to dispose of. The milk farmer may be a breeder to some extent of thorough- bred cattle. After the first outlay, (and that may be on a small scale at the commencement,) the expense of raising a thorough-bred cow will be no more than the raising of the meanest scrub of our common stock. Then, if there is any profit in fattening stock for the shambles, animals which fail in milk for the dairy, and are to be " turned," can be employed for this purpose. Both of these specialties are in the line, and connected with the dairy, as is also the fattening of swine on dairy slops. Again, the yield of his cows takes three forms of a commercial product, each of which enters into universal consumption, and is regarded both as a luxury and a necessity — Milk, Butter, and Cheese. The last two are highly concentrated forms of food, and less bulky of transport than other articles of food of the same value — for, two hundred pounds of butter, costing eighty dollars, will occujDy no more space in a railroad car than a barrel of flour costing but six dollars. In other words, the eighty dollars' worth of butter can be carried as cheaply to market as the six dollars' worth of flour. This alone is an immense advantage, for when the farmer comes to deduct freights on a low-pi-iced, bulky product, together with commission to the middle men for handling, and there will remain often but little profit for the producer. In New York we have studied this question of THE DAIRY AND ITS RELATIVE ADVANTAGES, for many years. We cannot afford to grow corn, for the West, with its rich prairie and bottom lands, easy of cultivation by machinery, can undersell us. Look at the average price of wheat for a series of years, and consider whether the hard, tenacious soil of New York and New England can produce it at a profit. How is it with wool ? The immense plains of Texas and the West are competing with us, and can always afford to sell for less money than it costs us to produce it. We have no chance to enter European markets with our wool, for Australia and South America stand in the way. A GOOD DAIRY FARM, is a good Stock Farm, but stock farms are not necessarily good dairy farms. It is doubtful whether the great stock farms of the Southwest will ever be employed largely for dairying. The lands are not so well provided with water, and the climate is too warm to secure the finest flavored goods. Be- Practical Dairy Husbandry. 9 sides, the stock farmer of the West and Southwest can at present make more money in raising stock than by dairying. With the great raih'oad facilities being developed in these directions, the N'ew York and New England farmer will find it more and more difficult as a specialty to compete with these people in raising fat cattle for the shambles. On the other hand, there has been for the past few years a gradual but constant increase in the demand and price of dairy products. If you take THE GOLD PRICES FOE DIFPEEENT KINDS OP FOOD in London for a series of years, the statistics present the remarkable fact that dairy products have remained steady, while other products have fluctuated in prices, and at times become very much. depressed. The reason of this is that the whole world is not competing in this class of production. The supply being uniformly within the limits of consumption, A GOOD ARTICLE IS ALWAYS NEEDED, and prices do not fall so low, comparatively, as for other products. It must be observed, too, that upon dairy lands the milk product, year after year, is pretty uniform as to quantity. Upon natural grazing lands there is no crop so reliable as grass. Grain, fruit, hops, and the like, are liable to numerous accidents that lessen or destroy the yield, but which do not obtain in the grass crop. Hence, the dairyman can* count pretty accurately upon what his farm will yield, if stocked with an average lot of cows. Again, his lands are not so liable to be exhausted as those devoted to grain growing, and with an abundant source of manure at his command should be growing more and more productive from year to year. The great question with dairy farmers has been in regard to OVBE-PEODUCTION OF DAIRY GOODS. Since the inauguration of the Associated Dairy System, fears have been entertained that the cheese and butter product of the country would be beyond a healthy consumptive demand. Dairy products are so liable to decay that dealers do not care to take the risk of storing and holding in large quantities. They must go into quick consumption, and hence, any considerable surplus, accumulating from year to year, would so depreciate prices that the business could not be carried on with profit. Statistics thus far show that in Europe production does not keep pace with consumption, and this difference is every year growing wider and wider. In the United States the HOME CONSUMPTION OP BUTTER AND CHEESE, of late years, has more than kept pace with production, notwithstanding the extraordinary development of dairying under the associated system. Previous to the war of the Rebellion we exported butter ; but for some years past the home consumption has taken all our make, and at a price which consumers denounce as extortionate. 10 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The best Normandy butter sells in London to-day at about 150 shillings per cwt., or thirty-two cents gold per pound. Deducting freight and com- missions, and turning the gold into currency, it would net the shipper in the States a price below what the best grades are worth at home. In 1860 THE PEODUCTION OF BUTTER IN THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES was nearly four hundred and sixty millions of pounds. It is, perhaps, to-day over six hundred millions of pounds, and if we were over-producing prices would decline, so that shippers could afford to export. Wherever you go among consumers in towns and cities you hear loud complaints of the diffi- culty of getting good butter, and the monstrous price which they are forced to pay. They talk bitterly against the cheese factories, charging them with the crime of absorbing the butter makers, and thus cutting off production. They forget that the rapid increase of population and the gormandizing habits of our people in the use of butter, are the causes which have led to this condition of things. There are NO SUCH BUTTER EATERS on the globe as we Americans. Everything that we cook must be swimming in butter. Our Irish domestics, many of whom never ate a pound of butter during their whole lives before .reaching these shores, seem never able to get enough of this unctuous food. The waste of butter among all classes is enormous, and, in an economic point of view, is truly alarming. To those who have traveled in Europe and contrasted the difference in the habits of people there and here in the use of butter, it need be no surprise that our dairies are taxed to their utmost to satisfy the craving demands of our butter eaters. If the habit increases with our constantly increasing population, the prospects of butter dairying cannot be considered at all discouraging. If we take the article of cheese, our people are evidently beginning to follow English tastes in their appreciation of this nutritious article of food. We are exj)orting now but little more cheese, comparatively, than in 1861, perhaps twenty millions of pounds more, and yet our production has in- creased from one hundred and three millions of pounds, in 1860, to two hundred and forty millions of pounds in 1869. ISTotwithstanding the war ol the rebellion, and the consequent poverty of the Southern States, which cut ofi THE CHEESE TRADE in that direction, the home consumption has gone on increasing from sixty three millions of pounds, in 1860, to one hundred and eighty millions of pounds, in 1869. The average increase of home consumption has been at the rate of thirteen millions of pounds per year. When the Southern States get into a healthy, prosperous condition, with the wonderful development o: railroad facilities, the opening of the Southern Pacific Railroad, the influx of Chinese laborers, and a direct trade with China, it is doubtful whether the dairies in this country can be developed sufficiently to supply the demands.' Practical Dairy Husbandry. 11 But there must always be a large dairy interest employed in supplying fresh milk to our cities and manufacturing towns. This is more apparent from year to year, and the real question of the dairy interest to-day should be, to so equalize the supply of MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE, tnat the nighest prices may be reached for eacn. I'he difficulty is not so much the fear that dairying will be overdone, as that the equilibrium will be disturbed, and either one or the other of these products be increased beyond its proper proportion. If a large proportion of the cheese makers were to go to making butter, the butter interest would be overdone and prices decline; and the same would result to the cheese interest from a large change from butter to cheese dairying ; while the milk interest would be greatly injured if a large proportion of dairymen should enter into that branch, either by furnishing condensed milk, or fresh milk, for city con- sumption. When Jesse Williams, the unpretending farmer of Rome, in 1850 conceived the idea of ASSOCIATED DAIRIES, it was forced upon him as a necessary means for accommodating members of his own family. He had not the remotest idea that he had hit upon a great principle — a principle that was of wide application, and which was destined, in all coming time, to be the means of lifting heavy burthens from the arms of toil. It is estimated there are now more than a thousand factories in the State of New York alone, and they are extending rapidly in other States. They have been carried to the Canadas and across the Atlantic ; and wherever cheese-making shall be known in after times, it will be inseparably connected with the name of Jessie Williams. But aside from the burthens of toil and the drudgery from which this system operates to relieve our farmers, it has developed another great economic principle, THE means of producing FOOD CHEAPLY, a principle which the Creator, in His infinite wisdom it seems, is now im- pressing upon the minds of people, by the establishment and wide-spread dissemination of this system. The question of food in all densely populated communities is one that underlies all others. No nation can rise to the highest civilization and power without her people are supplied with an abundance of CHEAP AND NUTRITIOUS FOOD. Where food is scarce, or is wanting in nutrition, there you will find poverty, squalid wretchedness, demoralization and crime — elements of weak- ness, opposed to progress and civilization. Food nourishes not only the body but the brain, and the cheapness and abundance of good food has had much to do in the rapid progress and active development of mind among the American jseople. But our population is increasing with wonderful rapidity, 12 Practical Bairy Husbandry. and already the supply of meats in the Atlantic States is becoming compara- tively scarce. They are to-day at such a price that poor people have difficulty in obtaining them. As our population increases there will be a still further scarcity of meats for the supply of our peoj^le. Some other form of animal food must be substituted in part, at least, for beef, and the question is be- coming every year more and more urgent, as to how it can be produced cheaply. And, in my opinion, we must look to the dairy as the chief means of solving this difficulty. I can illustrate this more satisfactorily, perhaps, by drawing a comparison between THE RELATIVE COST OF PKODUCIISTG BEEP AND CHEESE. A steer which will weigh one thousand five hundred pounds at four years must be a good animal, and will yield say one thousand pounds of meat. Three steers at four years, on the above assumption, would produce three thousands pounds of beef. Now, a good cow will yield from five hundred to six hundred pounds of cheese per year ; if we take her product for twelve years at four hundred and fifty pounds per year, deducting the first two years in which, as a heifer, she yields nothing, we have four thousand five hundred pounds of good, wholesome animal food. In other words, three steers at four years old, representing twelve years' growth for beef, amounts to three thousand pounds, while one cow, twelve years for cheese, four thousand five hundred pounds. But a pound of cheese, equal in nutrition to two pounds of beef, would make the difference still greater, giving for the dairy nine thousand pounds of food on the one hand, against three thousand pounds of meat on the other. Then there is cost of cooking, and the bone to be charged against the beef, which, as will be seen, adds further to the expense of that kind of food. THE ECON^OMICAL USE OP POOD I is not well understood by the majority of people, and perhaps there is no food in general use the nutritive value of which is more under-estimated than that of milk. Indeed, many people regard it more as a luxury than as afibrding any substantial nourishment like that obtained from meats or vegetables. Milk is often used sparingly, under the impression that it must always be an ex- pensive article of food, when in fact it is generally cheaper than any meats that can be had in the market ; and we believe if its relative nutritive value, as compared with beef, was more generally understood, it would be J more largely consumed, as a matter of economy. Good beef contains from fifty to sixty per cent, of water, and milk about eighty-seven per cent. On an average, then, three pounds and a half of milk, i or a little more than three pints by measure, are equal in nutrition to a * pound of beef If the beef is Avorth twenty cents per pound, the milk, at ten cents per quart, would be the cheaper food of the two. Dr. Bellows gives the following analysis of several articles of food, in their natural state, from which Practical Dairy Husbandry. 13 THE RELATIVE NUTRITIVE VALUE OF MILK may be readily compared. We place them in a table, as more convenient for reference and comparison : Nitrates. CARBONATES. Phosphates. Wateu. Milk of Cow 5.0 15.0 11.0 12.5 10.0 14 17 15K 8.0 30.0 35.0 40.0 50.0 very little. very little, uone. 1.0 5.0 3.5 3.5 1.5 5 to 6 5 to 6 4M 86 Beef 50 Lamb 50 5 Mutton 44 Pork 38 5 Codfish...... 79 Trout 75 White of eggs 80 Of the nitrates, or flesh-forming elements, the beef contains just three times that of the milk, while the carbonates, or respiratory and fat-producing elements in the beef, are three and three-fourth times richer than the milk. The solid constituents of the two, in a hundred parts, would be in milk fourteen, and in beef fifty, or very nearly as one to three and one-half Con- sequently, if both be represented in pounds, it would take three and one-half pounds of milk to give the same amount of nutrition that is contained in one pound of beef. In fish and eggs the difference would not be so great. Now a quart of milk will weigh about thirty-six ounces, consequently the three pints of milk by measure will weigh three pounds six ounces, representing very nearly the equivalent in nutrition for a pound of beef. As there is always more or less waste in beef, even after it is separated from the bone, on account of muscle, tendons, cartilage and the like, which cannot be con- sumed, the three pints of milk may be considered to rej)resent a fair equiva- lent in nutrition for a pound of beef, exclusive of bone. On this assumption, if a pound of beef, exclusive of bone, is worth twenty cents, milk should be counted at a little over thirteen cents per quart, the exact figures being thir- teen and one-third cents. But if we reckon the loss from bone which the consumer takes with the meat, it will be seen the cost is considerably more, which would by so much farther enhance the value of the milk. When milk is selling at six cents per quart, beef, exclusive of bone, at nine cents per pound would be the equivalent. It will be seen by carefully comparing the analysis of milk and meats, and making the proper deductions on the latter on account of waste, of bones, etc., that there is less difference between the economical value of milk and beefsteak, or fish and eggs, than is commonly supposed. Milk contains all the elements of nutrition, and is more whole- some than meats like pork and veal, which are justly regarded with suspicion. It should be more largely used in hot weather than it is, and especially in the diet of children, as it supplies material for building up the bones and muscles, which superfine flour, and butter and sugar, do not. It may not be advisable to substitute milk wholly for meat in any system of diet. Still by using smaller quantities of meat with which to make up the requisite propor- tion of animal food, health would doubtless be greatly promoted, and at 14 Practical Dairy Husbandry. much less expense, than where meat is exclusively used. The market value of milk is generally very much below its nutritive equivalent m beef; and those who are looking to economy in foods will do well to give this question attention. MTLK A'S A FOOD. Professor Lton Playfair, in speaking of milk as a food, says :— " We see how carefully nature has provided for the growth of the infant. In the casein there is abundance of structural food for the building up of organs; in the highly combustible fat or butter, and in the less carbonaceous sugars we have a full supply of heat givers ; while in the mineral substances, bone earth for the building up of the young skeleton, besides common salt, potash salts, iron, silica, and every mineral ingredient that we find m the body. It may be interesting to uiquire with regard to the typical food, what proportion the structural materials bear to the respiratory or heat-giving substances. For this purpose, we must convert both the butter and sugar into a common value, and calculate them as if they were starch, which is the most common heat-c^iving body in different kinds of food. Estimated m this way, the quantity of heat-givers is three times greater than that of fiesh-formers. But the nutrition of the young animal is in many respects different from that of the adult In the case of the latter it is only necessary to supply the daily waste of the tissues ; in the former it is also requisite to furnish materials for the growing bodv, and also abundant fuel to maintain the higher temperature: of the infant With this difference kept in view, all our efforts m diet ap- pear to aim at imitating the typical food, milk, by adjusting a proper balance between the flesh-formers, heat-givers, and mineral bodies. Thus with ai flesh-forming aliment like beef or mutton, we take a rich heat-givmg one like potatoes or rice. To fat bacon, abounding already in l^eat-givers, we add beans, which compensate for its poverty in flesh-formers. With fowls ^ poor in fat, we consume ham, richin this combustible. Our appetites and tastes become the regulators of food, and adjust the relative proportions of its several ingredients; and until the appetite becomes depraved by mdul. gence or disease, it is a safe guide in the selection of aliments." MUSCLB-MAKIHTG FOOD. The importance of using food containing a due proportion of muscle making elements, or albuminoids, has been demonstrated in repeated experi ments, when loss of vigor and health has followed a continual use of food lacking in these elements. The experiments made in five prisons m Scotland bear upon this point. They were made to ascertain the smallest amount of food and the proportion of nitrates and carbonates, that would keep the prisoner up to his weight while doing nothing, when it was found that by reducing the proportion of nitrates in the food from four ounces to two and three-quarter ounces daily the prisoners lost weight rapidly. Dr. Bellows in commenting upon these experiments, which he gives m detail, says : Practical Dairy Husbandry. 15 "It is a remarkable fact which shows the importance of connecting science with practice, that the deterioration in the quality of the diet in Dundee prison consisted in substituting molasses for milk, which had been previously used with oatmeal porridge and oatmeal cakes, molasses being entirely destitute of muscle-making material, while milk contains a full proportion of these important principles. This one experiment and its results are worthy of study by every mother and every housekeeper in the land. If any class of persons would suffer less than others from the use of too much carbonaceous and too little nitrogenous food, it would be that class who are idle ; and yet the one hundred prisoners of Dundee, with an ounce more of the fat and heat-making principle than those of Edinburgh, lost two hundred and seven- teen and one-half pounds, while the same number in Edinburgh lost only twenty-seven pounds; the difference in their diet being, as stated in the report, that the prisoners of Edinburgh had milk with their porridge and cakes, while those of Dundee had molasses instead." And he remarks further : — " If the same experiment had been tried on men in active life, or on -children who are never still except when asleep, the result would have been more remarkable, in j^roportion to the greater waste of muscle in those who are active, and the greater demand for nitrogenous food ; and yet how few mothers stop to consider or take pains to know, whether gingerbread made of fine flour, which has but a trace of food for muscle or brain, and sugar or molasses, and perhaps butter, which have none, or cakes made with unbolted wheat mixed with milk or buttermilk, all of which abound in muscle and brain-feeding materials, is the best food for a growing, active child ; indeed, the whole food of the child is given with the same want of knowledge or consideration. " But in view of these simple experiments in the Scotch j^risons, who can doubt that a want of consideration of these principles of diet is the means of consigning to the tomb many of our most promising children. An intelligent farmer knows how to feed his land, his horses, his cattle and his pigs, but not how to feed his children. He knows that fine flour is not good for pigs, and he gives them the whole of the grain, or, perhaps, takes out the bran and coarser part, which contains food for muscles and brains, and gives them to his pigs, while the fine flour, which contains neither food for muscle or brain, he gives to his children. He separates, also, the milk, and gives his pigs the skim milk and buttermilk, in which are found all the elements for muscle and brain, and gives his children the butter, which only heats them and makes them inactive, without furnishing a particle of the nutriment which they need." Milk and cheese are doubtless the cheapest forms of animal food that can be had in our markets. They deserve to be more extensively used, and it is very likely they would enter more largely into consumption were it not from mistaken notions of economy, which exclude them from the table on the sup- position that they are costly luxuries rather than healthful and nutritious articles of food. 16 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Our country is vast, and of great diversity in soil and climate. New England and the Middle States have long since ceased to be regarded as the most favorable sections in which men of moderate means may engage in grain farming. There is a tide of emigration sweeping westward; there is another tide ebbing to the cities, and so the rural population in these States is constantly decreasing. We live in an age of intense competitive industry ; our people are impatient for gain ; and with a natural fondness for adventure, and an eagerness for any change that holds out prospect of better- ment, it is not strange that old landmarks are dying out among the farming population of the North Atlantic States. I shall not stop now to discuss all the causes which have led to this condition of things. It will suffice for the present to name one, THE MISDIEECTIOTS" OF THE USB OF LAND, by failing to adopt the kind of farming suited to the peculiarities of soil and climate. With a favorable climate, and the proper expenditure of money, by the aid of science you may force an unpropitious soil to yield amj^le returns in crops to which originally it was not well adapted. But temperature, moisture and climatic influence are in a measure beyond our control. Hence, with many disadvantages facing us at every step, we cannot compete successfully in growing grain with those sections which have none of these to contend with, but have everything in their favor. If we propose to grow corn and make it a specialty, the rugged lands of New York and New Eng- land will not present equal advantages with the fertile bottom and prairie soils of the West. From the natural fertility of these soils, and from the ease with which they may be cultivated, the Western farmer can put his surplus grain in our markets at a price which compels us to sell at meager profits. If we grow grain, therefore, it must be as an adjunct to some specialty, which gives us decided advantages over other sections. The dairy is one oi those branches from which the great bulk of lands in the United States bj natural causes is excluded. To the farmer, then, whose lands are adapted to dairying, it presents one of the most remunerative branches of agriculture in which he can engage ; and it may well be a question whether the older States, lying within the dairy belt we have named, and especially those of] New England, with their established institutions and nearness to the bes markets in the world, may not now present inducements to the agriculturist^! through the channels of dairying second to no other sections in the Union. THE PEOGEESS AND PEESENT MAGNITUDE OF THE DAIET INTEEBST OF THE UNITED STATES will be shown from the figures in the following tables, made up from official sources, some of which have been printed in the Patent Office reports, and reports of the Department of Agriculture : Practical Dairy Husbandry. 17 The following statement shows the number of Milch Cows, for the years 1840 1850 and 1860, and their rehitions to the total popnlatiou for each period : ' States and Tebkitokies. 1840. Ratio. Alabama Arkansas California Connecticut Delaware Florida Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Kentucky Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri New Hampshire . . . New Jersey New York North Carolina Oliio Oregon Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina Tennessee Texas Vermont Virginia Wisconsin District of Columbia Dakota Nebraska New Mexico Utah Washington Nevada Total 189,043 40,981 4,280 74,395 17,189 47,395 376,557 157,140 212,618 9,485 210,554 74,006 120,430 75,203 110,655 55,189 127,731 136,632 88,218 97,060 752,966 188,355 486,229 431,668 15,236 184,263 223,887 151,814 285,153 6,808 874 4,837,043 .32 .42 .05 .24 .22 .87 .40 .33 .31 .22 .27 .21 .24 .16 .15 .26 .34 .33 .81 .26 .31 .25 .32 .25 .14 .31 .27 .52 .23 .22 .02 .28 1850. 227,791 93,151 4,280 85,461 19,248 72,876 334,223 294,671 284,554 45,704 247,475 105,576 133,556 86,856 130,099 99,676 607 214,331 230,169 94,277 118,736 931,324 231,799 544,499 9,427 530,224 18,698 193,244 250.456 217,811 146,128 817,619 64,339 813 10,635 4,861 Ratio. 1860. 6,385,094 .30 .45 .05 .23 .21 .83 .37 .35 .29 .24 .25 .20 .23 .15 .13 .25 .10 .35 .34 .30 .24 .30 .25 .28 .71 .23 .13 .29 .35 1.03 .47 .23 .31 .03 .17 .43 -37 330,537 171,003 305,407 98,877 33,595 93,974 399,688 533,634 363,553 189,803 28,550 269,215 139,663 147,314 99,463 144,493 179,543 40,344 207,646 345,243 94,880 138,818 1,123,634 228,633 676,585 53,170 673,547 19,700 163,938 349,514 601,540 174,667 330,713 303,001 639 386 6,995 34,369 11,967 9,660 947 Ratio. .34 .86 .65 .31 .20 .66 .28 .31 .36 .28 .25 .23 .18 .23 .14 .12 .27 .23 .26 .29 .29 .21 .29 .23 .30 1.01 .23 .11 .23 .23 .99 .54 .31 .25 .01 .11 .25 .43 .33 .90 8,581,735 .28 ARE THE FIGURES CORRECT.'' In absence of the last official census I'eport, not yet printed for distri- bution, we take the statistics of 1870 from abstract of census returns of 1869, as given in the Tribune Almanac, and which purports to be a correct copy of the official returns. It must be evident, however, that the butter and cheese products are here put very much below the actual make, for it will be observed that the amounts are but little in excess of those made in 1860. Now it is well known that the increase in Dairy Farming since 1860 has been very large, and has been carried into neAV districts, while the increase of more than two millions two hundred and eighty thousand cows must plainly 2 18 Practical Dairy Husbandry. indicate a larger increase in dairy products than is here represented. In the last of the two subjoined tables the statistics are given in such form that the whole may be readily understood and compared. The following table shows the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and Clieese, made in the United States, in the vear 1869, according to the census of . 1870: States. Milch Cows. Pounds of Cheese. Pounds Butteb. Alabama Arkansas Califoi'nia Connecticut Delaware Florida Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Kentucky Louisiana , Maine Maryland Massachusetts , Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri Nebraska New Hampshire New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina Tennessee Texas Vermont Virginia West Virginia Wisconsin Nevada and Territories Total 270,537 15,923 190,500 16,810 1,330,800 1,343,689 99,350 3,898,411 24,198 6,579 99,108 5,280 301,180 15,578 850,340 1,848,557 390,450 605,795 201,740 918,635 41,310 29,045 280,191 190,400 148,320 6,153 190,110 1,799,862 100,030 8,342 160,220 5,294,090 198,580 1,641,897 60,740 199,314 300,101 4,427 390,120 259,633 24,342 99,540 2,323,092 149,450 182,172 1,980,300 48,548,289 301,102 51,119 960,322 21,618,893 79,312 105,379 873,212 2.508,556 23,180 181,511 171,480 1,543 260,190 135,575 640,302 275,128 190,420 8,215,030 401,860 280,852 Included in Va. 250,312 1,104,300 10,500,000 11,008,925 114.154,211 6,028,478 4,067,556 3,095,035 7,620,912 1,430,502 408,855 5,439,765 28,052,551 18,306,651 11,953,666 1,093,497 11,716,609 1,444,742 11,687,781 5,265,295 8,297,936 15,503,482 2,957,673 5,006,610 12,704,837 604,541 6,956,764 10,714,447 103,097,280 4,735,495 48,543,163 1,000,157 58,653,511 1,021,767 3,177,934 10,017,787 5,850,583 15,900,359 13,464,723 Included in Va. 13,611,328 11,100.000 470,536,468 The following table gives the number of Milch Cows, and the quantity of Butter and Cheese, manufactured during each of the years ending the successive decades ac- cording to the United States census reports of 1840, 1850, 1860 and 1870: ' Milch Cows. Value of Daiet Products. 1840. 4,837,043 $33,787,008 Milch Cows. Pounds Butter. | Pounds Cheese. 1850. 1860. 1870. 6,385,094 8,581,735 11 008,925 313,345,306 459,681,372 470.536,468 105,535,893 103,663,927 114,154,211 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 19 Table showing the number of Milch Cows, quantity of BuUer made and amount of Cheese and Milk sold in the State of New York, according to Census of 1865 : Counties. Milch 1864, I Cows. 1S65. Albany Allegany. . . . Broome Cattaraugus. . Cayuga Chautauqua. . Chemung.. . . Chenango.... Clinton Columbia. . . . Cortland Delaware. ... Dutchess. ... Erie Essex Franklin Fulton Genesee Greene Hamilton. ... Herkimer ... Jefferson , Kings Lewis Livingston.. . , Madison Monroe Montgomer_v. New York. . , Niagara Oneida , Onondaga. .. , Ontario Orange .-. Orleans Oswego Otsego Putnam Queens Rensselaer. . . Richmond. . . Rockland St. Lawrence., Saratoga Schenectady . Schoharie Schujder Seneca Stuben Suffolk Sullivan Tioga Tompkins. . . . Ulster Warren Washington. . Wayne Westchester. . Wyoming Yates 11,080 20,798 22,178 34,208 21,291 42,703 10,889 46,734 12 603 12,266 29,295 45,217 20,114 34,441 9,004 15,847 10,234 9,193 13,350 1,082 46,627 56,551 4,023 30,848 10,880 29,093 15,058 20,269 79 11,793 60,648 24,861 13,634 40,021 7,136 29,503 41,226 8,336 7,628 15,405 1,195 3,610 65,262 15.148 5,374 19,461 7,320 6,496 24,172 8,538 13,487 14,109 15,878 18,561 6,016 17,315 14,256 16,719 19,499 6,919 10,615 18,525 20,696 30,559 21,794 40,008 9,647 41,459 13,968 11,942 31,920 38,525 20,014 31,851 9,219 15,804 9,974 9,009 12,059 1,043 45,461 55,198 4,030 30,639 10,605 28,995 14,962 19,903 86 11,860 58,417 23,730 13,411 40,096 7,197 28,393 36,040 8,426 7,893 14,302 1,191 3,658 65,286 14,583 5,118 16,506 6,897 6,470 22,785 9,057 12,667 12,672 14,575 18,226 5,874 16,863 14,229 17,154 18,329 6,828| Pounds of BuTTEK Made. 1864. Pounds op Cheese Sold. 1864. Gallons of Milk Sold. 1864. 1,066,196 1,655,776 2,291,268 2,412,223 2,208,049 105,205 105,345 4,042,336 946,725 965,064 2,683,773 5,052,295 1,358,573 1,558,573 654,174 1,226,598 706,612 763,082;^ 1,327,054 96,174 953,118 3,100,234 16,315 1,663,950 1,052,804 1,569,342 1,374,890 1,035,7311^ 966,286 2,868,740 2,149,141 1,110,592 2,363,6613^ 804,209^ 1,988,0603^ 2,811,199 272,924 424,063^/ 1,144,726 23,575 231,231 5,417,779 1,323,024 514,607 1,978,640 737,673 690,428 2,261,034 596,189 1,195,868 1,432,650 1,676,823 1,547,217 478,0853^ 1,817,397 1,320,004 525,032 1,279,761 642,324 20,783 1,325,748 113,922 3,635,356 205,155 2,105,642 21,747 2,552,066 100,020 23,447 2,074,155 35,519 11,599 3,344,734 96,255 125,732 991,002 80,263 16,961 1,855 13,893,801 5,348,615 4,755,643 101,417 3,452,682 69,044 4,207,006 52,260 8,108,540 1,844,326 119,357 132,575 59,598 2,383,806 3,335,144 1,155 528,133 650 2,922,001 185,161 82,064 143,641 32,948 12,331 291,185 1,030 12,316 49.655 885,697 1,060 71,139 807,374 90,591 186 1,801,781 30,084j 464,885 250 41,385 12,513 91.511 73,085 84,449 11,653 6,300 231,130 715 6,046 8,964,574 489,206 970 1,100 1,084 104,623 2,193 100 17,686 278,237 444,530 138,126 38,233 13,506 858,400 7,885 12,650 25,889 191,698 262,946 32,020 8,835,0523^ 75 69,151 18,279 2,841,453 929,131 556,688 4,793 215,884 119,187 115,556 118,094 4,235 8,500 21,894 22,485 22,330 89,928 604 81,167 134,099 17,485 21,819 47,305 3,928,845 43,407 10,551 Total I 1,195,481] 1,147,251] 84,584,458] 72,195,837] 39,631,5303^ 20 Practical Dairy Husbandry. As a basis foi' estimating the probable production, the following table will be useful: This table shows the total produce of Milk in thirteen States, for the year ending June 30, 1860, and also the quantity used for food, and the amount manufactured into Butter and Cheese for each State : States. Milch Cows. NUMBEE. Total Produce. Quarts. Used as Food. Man'factur'd Butter. Quarts. Manufac- tured Cheese. Quarts. Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts.. . lihode Island Connecticut New York Pennsylvania. . . New Jersey Delaware Maryland Wisconsin Virginia Total 147,314 94,880 174,667 144,492 19,700 98,877 1,123,634 673,547 138,818 22,595 99,463 203,001 330,713 265,165,200 170,784,000 309,056,400 260,085,600 35,460,000 177,978,600 ,022,521,400 ,212,384,600 249,872,400 40,671,000 170,033,400 349,192,800 595,128,600 112,013,085 75,052,328 81,288,157 135,555,626 21,570,272 63,585,989 543,030,641 553,828,525 109,868,653 22,763,870 96,286,486 174,214,114 405,561,119 146 86 196 103 13 99 ,288 648 139 17 73 170 188 097,262 .959,550 022,925 724,200 ,193,128 ,071,856 ,695,987 ,697,450 ,287,811 ,881,275 ,714,130 638,162 ,463,968 3,281,701 5,858,334,000 2,394,618,865 3,172,447,704 291,267,431 7,054,853 8,772,122 31,745,318 20,805,774 696,600 15,320,755 190,794,772 9,858,625 715,936 25,855 32,784 4,340,524 1,103,513 According to these statistics fifty-four per cent, of the entire produce was made into butter. Now, on this basis, if we take one thousand eight hundred quarts of milk as the annual product on an average for each cow, and eighteen (1 8) quarts as the average quantity of milk required for a pound of butter, then the eleven millions and nine thousand cows of 1870 would yield, if their milk was all made into butter, one billion one hundred million pounds ; and if fifty-four per cent, of this is the actual product of the country, as is represented in the table for 1860, then we have the butter product of 1870 represented by neai'ly six hundred million pounds. But we think it may be safely estimated at more than this. The report of the Amer- ican Dairymen's Association for 1870, gives a list of nearly one thousand one hundred cheese factories. The list is very incomplete, as it is well known that there are a much larger number ; but this list alone, at an average of four hundred cows to the factory, would embrace nearly a half million of cows. There are a large number of farms scattered over the country, where cheese manufacture is carried on at the farm, and if the number of cows so employed be added to the number belonging to factories not reported, there can be but little doubt but that the whole number employed for cheese dairy- ing would be swelled to eight himdred thousand cows. At three hundred pounds of cheese to the cow, we should have the product of 1870, amounting to two hundred and forty million pounds. Now, according to the table for 1860, forty-one per cent, of the milk product is consumed directly as food, fifty-four per cent, is made into butter, and five per cent, is made into cheese. Therefore we find that, allowing five quarts of milk to the pound of cheese, and taking five per cent, of the gross Practical Dairy Husbandry. 21 amount of milk, the cheese product of 1870 would amoimt to nearly two hundred million pounds, and this too on the basis that ratios are the same in 1870 as 1860. We may remark here that THE ANNUAL AVERAGE PRODUCT OF COWS in our estimate, (viz., — three hundred and sixty pounds of cheese per head ; or, if the milk is made into butter, one hundred pounds of butter per head,) is considered only a fair average annual jDroduct. These estimates of the present annual cheese product correspond very nearly with the quantity estimated by those who have kept statistics in regard to this branch of industry. They put the whole product of cheese made in 1869 at two hundred and forty million pounds. If anything more was needed to show THE INACURACY OF THE CENSUS RETURNS of 1869 as here reported, we might refer to the cheese product of ISTew York for that year in the table which is put at forty-eight million five hundred and forty-eight thousand two hundred and eighty-nine pounds, when according to the New York census returns of 1864 the quantity of cheese made in the State that year for sale and exclusive of what was consumed in families of farmers amounted to seventy-two million one hundred and ninety-five thou- sand three hundred and thirty-seven poimds. Cheese dairying in New York since 1864 has been largely increased. From the incomplete retui-ns published in the report of the American Daiiymen's Association for 1870, we find eight hundred and twenty-five factories given, and if each averaged three hundred cows they would make a total of two hundred and forty-seven thousand cows. If we estimate four hundred pounds of cheese to the cow as the average product, the gross make of cheese at these factories would amount to ninety-eight million eight hundred thousand pounds. In view of all the facts in my possession, I feel warranted in placing the butter product of the United States and Territories during 1870 at more than six hundred million pounds, and the cheese product at two hundred and forty million pounds. The table, on next page, given by Dr. LooMis in the Patent Ofiice report of 1861, will be of interest, as showing THE PER CENTAGE OP MILK CONSUMPTION, PREVIOUS TO 1861, IN THIRTEEN STATES. " It is worthy of notice," he says, " that but five States, viz., New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York, use over three per cent, of their milk for cheese, and that all south of Pennsylvania use less than one per cent. Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Maryland produce the least in proportion to their population ; Vermont, New Hamp- shire, New York and Wisconsin produce the most in proportion to their population. Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and Maryland, consume the least in proportion to their population. Virginia consumes as food nearly seventy per cent, of the entire milk product of that State ; Rhode Island over sixty per cent., and Maryland, Delaware, Massa- 22 Practical Dairy Husbandry. chusetts and Wisconsin over fifty per cent, of the product of the States severally. New York and Vermont manufacture into butter nearly two- thirds of their entire milk product. But one State, Virginia, uses less than one-third of its milk in the manufacture of butter. Rhode Island uses the largest per centage in the manufacture of cheese ; New York the largest per centage in butter ; and Virginia the largest per centage as food. Virginia uses the smallest per centage in butter and cheese, and Vermont the least per centage as food. This table shows the per centage of Milk consumed as food, and manufactured into Butter and Cheese. Also, the average produce in quarts to each person, and the average amount each consumed : States. Maine New Hampsiiire. Vermont Massachusetts. . . Rhode Island . . . Connecticut New York Pennsylvania . . . New Jersey Delaware Maryland Wisconsin Virginia Consumed. Pek Cent. BUTTEK. Pek Cent. 42 .55 44 .50 26 .63 52 .40 61 .37 35 .56 27 .64 46 .53 44 .55-1- 56— .44— 57— .43— 50 .48 68-1- .31-1- Manufac- TUBED Cheese. Pek Cent. .03 .06 .11 .08 .02 .09 .09 .01 .01- .01- .01- .02 .01- Average Produce to Each Person. Quarts. Average Consumed BY Each Person. Quarts. 422 524 980 211 203 287 520 417 372 362 247 463 373 177 230 255 110 124 135 140 193 163 203 141 232 254 " The average amount consumed daily by each individual, taking the whole thirteen States, is one pint. The greatest average daily consumed by each person is 1.6 pint in Vermont and Virginia. The least average daily consumed by each person is 0.6 of a pint in Massachusetts. Dr. LooMis gives the following table, showing the quantity of Milk received in the city of New York, at the depots of the Erie, Harlem and Long Island Railroad compa- nies, for the year ending June 30, 1861 : Months. Harlem K. R. Quarts. Erie E. E. Quarts. Long Island E. E. Quarts. Total. Quarts. July August September. , October November. , December . , January February. . , March April May June Total 2,816,720 2,657,150 2,399,410 2,320,610 2,057,570 2,068,320 2,061,730 1,853,080 2,169,590 2,203,010 2,436,800 2.463,090 2,743,750 2,636,880 2,225,800 1,959,740 1,715,128 1,564,670 1,547,630 1,474,150 1,788,910 1,944,770 2,320,670 2,492,510 282,530 286,250 265,190 269,890 267,890 262,660 260,010 266,740 275,840 286,180 301,900 301,650 27,507,080 24,414.608 3.326,730 5,843.000 5,580,280 4,890,400 4,550,240 4,040,588 3,895,650 3,869,370 3,593,970 4,234,340 4,433,960 5,059,370 5,257,250 55,248,418 In 1861 thirty thousand six hmidred and ninety-four cows were required Practical Dairy Husbandry, 23 to supply the milk transported to New York city on the Harlem, Erie and Long Island Kailroads. The average annual cost of transport was five hundred and fifty-two thousand four hundred and eighty-four dollars, and the cost of milk as received for transportation was one million one hundred and four thousand nine hundred and sixty-eight dollars annually. We have no statistics at hand to show the quantity of milk used in New York city for the year 1870, but the quantity and its cost must be very much greater than in 1861. VALUE OF THE MILK CROP IN 1860. Dr. LooMis says : — " The value cf the milk crop may be very fairly estimated from the value of milk used in the manufacture of butter. Fifty- four per cent, of the entire crop in the thirteen States before named is made into butter ; hence, the value of butter forms a very correct basis for ascer- taining the true value of milk. In the following table the prices of milk given for each State has been derived by taking the average prices given for the cost value of butter at the places where it is made, and extended over a period of twelve years. The localities were selected from various sections of each State. This method was pursued with all the States except Wisconsin, which extended over a period of only three years. He adds : — " I am aware that these values, with the exception of Dela- ware, fall below the generally estimated value of milk, yet I am confident that if there is any variation from the true value, it is that I have over-esti- mated them." The value of milk in the United States in 1860, or befoi'e the war, he thought would average less than one cent and five mills per quart. He says : — " The following table is a correct statement of the value of milk per quart ; the total value of the crop ; together with the value of the amount consumed in each of the named States : States. Pbicb per Quart Cents. Value Consumed. Total Value. Maine New Hampshire. Vermont Massachusetts. . . Rhode Island Connecticut New York Pennsylvania. . . , New jersey Delaware Maryland Wisconsin Virginia 1.36 1.44 1.28 1.68 1.64 1.60 1.36 1.28 1.76 2.00 1.20 1.48 1.13 $1,523 1,080 1,040 2,277 353 1,017 7,385 7,089 1,933 455 1,155 ■ 2,578 4,542 377 96 ,753 52 ,488 41 ,334 52 ,752 46 ,375 82 ,216 72 005 12 ,688 29 277 40 ,437 83 ,368 89 ,284 53 Total. $32,432,361 47 $3,606,246 72 2,459,289 60 3,955,921 92 4,369,438 08 518,544 00 2,847,657 60 27,506,291 04 15,518,522 88 4,396,754 24 813,420 00 2,040,400 80 5,160,053 44 6,665,440 32 $79,857,980 64 With the above tables as a basis, it was estimated that the entire milk 24 Practical Dairy Husbandry. crop of the United States for the year 1860, exceeded $160,000,000, or as follows : Amount consumed as food, $90,000,000 Amount manufactured into butter, 65,000,000 Amount manufactured into cheese, 5,000,000 Total, $160,000,000 The additional value produced by the manufacture and transportation of butter and cheese he estimates will make the value of the crop for the year 1860, exceed $200,000,000. The estimate is made on the value of milk at 1.48 cent per quart. At two cents per quart the value of the dairy would be upwards of 260,000,000. MILK PRODUCT OF 1870. Now if we proceed upon the above basis in estimating the entire milk crop of 1870, taking its increase of quantity and advanced prices, we shall have the following. Milk consumed as food, say 40 per cent, of wLole product, at 2 cents per quart $170,400,000 600,000,000 pounds of butter, at 30 cents, 180,000,000 240,000,000 pounds of cheese, at 12 cents, 28,800,000 Total, $379,200,000 This is below the estimate made by Commissioner Wells in his Report upon the " Industry, Trade and Commerce of the United States," for the year 1869. He puts the value of dairy products of the United States at $400,000,000 per annum. It will be seen, then, that the diary has become an important branch of National Industry. DAIRY FARMS AND FIXTURES. In Dairy Farming the first thing, natiirally, to be considered is the farm. Reference has been made to the importance of a suitable climate as one of the requisites to success. Experience and experiment must of course deter- mine what our several localities are best adapted to ; but it is certain that much of the land in this Northern belt is well adapted for making butter and cheese. Its climate is comparatively cool, and that is a matter of great mo- ment in securing dairy products of fine flavor and quality. With its showers and dews, pure water and fresh sweet feed, it answers the description of a good dairy country, which the warmer and drier Southern and Western lati- tudes do not. I am satisfied there is no branch of farming in this Northern belt that will sufl'er less from outside competition than dairying, and hence, where locality favors it nothing in the long run will pay better. PERMANENT PASTURES. But climate may be favorable and locality unfavorable for the dairy. We must consider whether the lands are naturally adapted to grass, or that pas- tures at least may be made enduring, and that the farm is well provided with an abundance of pure water. These two points are very essential to success. I refer to pastures, in dis- tinction from meadows, because a rotation of crops may be adopted on arable land, so that sufiicient hay may be produced, where the natural condition of the soil would not continue to be productive of grass from year to year, during long periods. But pastures should be of a character to be made enduring, for a variety of reasons which I shall presently notice. SIZE OF HEEDS. The question is often asked, how large a number of cows can be kept profitably in one herd ? or, rather, what is the limit to the number that will yield the best average returns as a dairy ? I have taken some pains to get the opinion of practical dairymen, both in this country and in Europe, on this question ; and it seems to be the universal expression of those who have given the matter attention, that, in their experience, sixty cows are about the limit, or maximum number. If we take pains to look up the largest average yield of dairies in the country, we shall find, almost invariably, that they are among the small herds numbering from twenty to forty cows. 26 Practical Daiby Husbandry. Very large herds become unwieldy. They are more subject to disease, and a larger number of accidents in proportion, than smaller herds. In driving to and fro in the pasture, there is more excitement or worry, which operates to lessen the average quantity of milk. There is also a greater proportion of farrow, or abortive stock in such herds, hence in New York, dairymen who have large farms, prefer to divide them up, making their dairies number from thirty to fifty cows each. ■ DIVIDING HERDS. I found this condition of things prevailing in the dairy districts of Eng- land and Scotland, and I therefore conclude that herds having a larger num- ber than sixty cows are not to be generally recommended. If it is desired, however, to keep a larger number, I should advise that the cows be pastured in separate herds of say thirty each, and that they be milked and wintered in separate stables, allowing no communication among the several branches. In some instances, I have seen dairies of a hundred cows, divided up into two herds of fifty each, and good results were obtained. The herds were milked and wintered in one barn, but in stables opposite or adjoining each other, and so arranged that the cows of the different herds could have no communication with each other whatever. This fact in relation to the size of herds it is important to understand ; since large losses have been made by persons who have tried the herding of a large number of animals together for dairy purposes. TElSrCING. There is another point of considerable economy in the management of dairy farms, often overlooked even by old and experienced dairymen, and this is in regard to fences. In New York it is daily becoming a problem of increasing interest where we are to obtain our fences. All sorts of hedges are recommended, but who has ever seen a good one in New England or New York ! — one that will stand the test of every day practical utility in turning stock ? In England they are easily enough produced, and so are pastures. A humid atmosphere, frequent showers, frosts so light as not to injure grass in winter or even render it unfit for the sustenance of sheep ordinarily, even in mid-winter. Absence of our fervid heats of summer, and during summer many more hours of daylight render any comparison between that country and cur own in the way of growing hedges, of doubtful character. But few per- sons, I imagine, have even sat down to fairly estimate THE EXPENSE OF FENCING THE FARMS OF A STATE. It has been vaguely estimated that 140,000,000 would not fence the farms of New York. But to fence one hundred acres of land with only four lots require nearly eight hundred rods of fence, which, at $1.50 per rod, would cost $1,200. Now deduct one-third of this for the fencing of the contiguous farms, and we have |800 per hundred acres for the cost of board fences. A town— after rejecting poor land— of say one hundred such farms, would cost Practical Dairy Husbandry. 27 $30,000, and a county of twenty such towns the enormous sum of at least $1,500,000. Multiply that by the number of counties in a State and see what an immense sum we arrive at. The corollory is a safe one that the fences of IsTew York cost more than the Erie Canal or the Central Railroad. At least one-third of these fences are of no earthly use, but on the contrary, it can be proved, are a serious damage. Upon dairy forms, therefore where it is practicable, the farm should have but one line of interior fence. Immense sums are thrown away by the farm- ers of the country in USELESS SMALL ENCLOSURES, It is not necessary to go into the exact details of cost in erecting a substan- tial fence, dividing a farm into ten acre lots. This in the outset is a heavy outlay of capital and labor, but the burthen of repairing must be carried from year to year. Division lines between farms should always be marked with good substantial barriers. Where stone are plenty upon the farm, they are perhaps well employed in division or line fences, but it is hardly advisable to use them for interior barriers, especially such as may require to be removed from time to time. In early times when timber was plenty, and forests to be cleared, the expense of fencing a farm was of not so much account as now. Then a selection of timber could be made and a thousand rails split, with but a trifle more labor than a quarter that number from the cullings of the present wood lot of the farm. Timber among the early settlers was considered of very little value. Now it is costly, and the farmer who has much fence to build must study economy in material as well as in labor, and even under the best management he finds the expense burthensome. The division of a dairy farm into numerous small enclosures, I regard as poor economy, and in many ways objectionable. The generality of fences upon American farms, to say the least, are unsightly. Besides the first expense and labor of keeping them in repair, they occupy too much land, and are a harbor for weeds and bushes, and briars ; all of which must be put down as serious objections. I know there are men who claim great advantages for small enclosures, and who regard five, eight, or ten aci-e lots as almost indispensable in their farming operations. I do not propose to argue points with them, but simply suggest that the cost of fencing such enclosures for ten years be figured, and compared with the advantages claimed. In most instances, I think, the balance sheet will be a strong argument against the fences. Of course some small enclosures may be necessary, such as that for the vegetable garden, the orchard, &c. I do not object to these, but to the extending of them over the whole farm. Upon half the farms in the old States, it would pay the occupants to EMPLOY AN EXPERIENCED ENGINEER, to make a careful survey of the farm and establish the location of fences. Let the farmer make a plain statement of the character of farming he is 28 Practical Dairy Husbandry. about to follow, his actual necessities upon the farm, requiring of the fence engineer a reduction of the fences to the lowest possible point. I am very certain that the fences on most farms may be so arranged as to afford ample convenience, and yet be largely reduced as to length. The necessity of building strong and high fences along the road-side is not so imperative now as formerly. There is a law in many of the States against cattle running at large in the highways, which ought to be enacted in all the States and put in force in every neighborhood. THE LOG AKD EAIL FENCES of the early settlers, have both had their day. Neither is to be recommended, except perhaps in heavily wooded regions, where timber is of little value. l| In old districts they must soon pass away, since timber is becoming scarce and land is too valuable to be wasted by this character of barrier. They are very objectionable in plowing, and even upon dairy farms when such a fence divides pasture and meadow, considerable more expense is required to do the mowing, as the machine cannot run into the corners, which must be trimmed by hand. Besides, as was remarked at the outset, they are a harbor for weeds and bushes, since they are more liable to be left uncut, than when the fences are straight, and there are no corners to prevent obstructions, as the woi'k goes on. It should be remembered that we do not fence against the strength of cattle ; for if our animals Avere so inclined, they would break down nearly all the wooden fences which we build. What Ave seek in the construction of interior farm fences, is to build a barrier that Avill appear formidable to cattle, of sufficient strength to resist ordinary storms of wind, and the occasional contact from cattle rubbing against it. It should be so high that cattle cannot reach over it, so compact that they cannot get their heads through it, and so near the ground that they cannot get under it. MOVEABLE PANELS. For surrounding patches of land that require breaking up and cultivating, and to be returned again to grass an effectual barrier can be erected at much less expense for labor and material than the heavy post and board fence commonly recommended. There are various forms of moveable panels, easily erected and taken down and removed from place to place, which are of great practical utility and economy upon dairy farms. Some of our New York dairy farmers find the picket fence the most formidable barrier to cattle, of all the kinds of wooden fence in use. A LIGHT FENCE of this description, and which has been found to be an ample protection against stock, for patches of grain, vegetables, &c., recommended by Mr. S. S. Whiteman of Herkimer, is constructed as folloAvs : — The pickets are four feet long, two inches wide and five-eights of an inch thick. They are nailed three inches apart on the rails, or seventeen pickets to the rod. The rails are ten Practical Dairy Husbandry. 29 feet long, two inches wide and one and a half inches thick, three rails to a panel ; that is — a rail at top and bottom, and the third rail running diagonally between the other two in the form of a brace. In making these panels a frame or skeleton form is constructed arranged with wooden pins, so as to se-jDarate the various pieces the desired distance apart. The top and bottom rails are then dropped into their apj)ropriate places, the pickets arranged between the pins, where they are rapidly nailed with five-penny nails. After the skeleton frame is once constructed, these panels may be speedily made. The pickets do not cover the ends of the rails, a space being left for lapping the panels together, when they are to be set up in the fence. The method of putting the fence up is to let the rails of one section overlap the rails of the other at the point where they are joined together ; the sections being suj^ported at the right height from the ground by a stone or block. Then a stake about the size of a common hand spike, is driven down on each side of the lapping sections, and supporting block, and the top of the stakes fastened together with wire. These panels can be easily loaded on a wagon rack and removed from place to place as needed. DIGGING POST HOLES. Line fences and that separating the pasture and madow may be of a more permanent character. When posts are to be set, the holes can be dug expeditiously after the following method : — First, strike a line and mark off the distances between the posts, sticking small stakes about four inches from the line. Then make the center of the hole opposite the stakes. The digger stands faceing the line of fence, making the hole the width of the spade at the line, and slanting towards him as he digs, while all the other sides are perpendicular. This slant enables the digger to lower the handle of his spade and bring up a full spadeful, enabling him to do the work easily and expeditiously. BOAKD FENCE. There are various ways of making board fence. When boards sixteen feet long are used, they may be six inches wide and one inch thick. The posts then should be set seven and a-half feet apart. Fasten the boards at each end with a seven inch spike and a two and a half inch slat, resting the boards on the spikes. The lap on each end of the boards should be six inches. At the middle post, as there is no lap, a six inch spike may be used. If the boards used are but thirteen feet long, they should be one and a-fourth inches thick, and the middle post may be omitted. By ushig slats, and allowing the boards to rest on spikes, rather than driving them through the boards, they are less liable to decay, while the panels may be easily removed as occasion may require. The question of ECONOMY IN" FENCING does not receive the attention which it deserves among farmers. The cost of fencing farms, and their repair year after year is enormous. It would be well if we could look forward to something more tasteful than the rail 30 Practical Dairy Husbandry. structures, which disfigure the country at every hand. We must get in the way of doing work ii. a more economical way. As we grow older as a nation, structures, whether they be in buildings or fences, must inevitably be improved. It would be better that we begin at once since much money^ would in the end be saved. I CHANGE OF PASTURES. ■ I have endeavored to show the importence of economy in the matter of fencing, and it may be well perhaps in this connection to name some of the practicle results of the plan recommended. The practice which obtains with some of dividing the pasturage into separate fields, and changing the herd every week or two from field to field is now generally disapproved of by our best dairymen. Cows confined to one field are more quiet and contented. They will usually go over in the course of the day every portion of the field, selecting their food, and when filled they lie down to rest, and manufacture grass into milk. All extra labor, excitement and gluttinous feeding from an over stimulated appetite lessens the quantity of milk. Everything about the " every day pasture '' is familiar, and if food is abundant, they have no thought beyond leisurely taking their meals, and reclining at ease on some favorite spot, ruminating or dozing over their " knitting work " as it has been aptly termed— no shadow of discontent clouding their peaceful and seemingly happy existance. But let a bite of grass in new fields be had and all this is changed. They over-feed, and in consequence their health is more or less deranged ; they tramp around in every nook and corner of the field in search of dainties- become restless and discontented, and not unfrequently some of the more active and enterprising members of the herd, try fences and make excursions mto fields of grain and prohibited crops. I have seen herds with one or two unruly disposed members, though perfectly quiet and orderly while confined to one pasture, become so restless and discontented from a change to new fields, as to be exceedingly troublesome and cause serious losses. There are other reasons. The pastures will not be so uniformly cropped ; large portions will get a rank growth, be rejected by stock, and therefore afl^ord less nutritious food through the season, than when used as one pasture. FKESH PASTURES PRODUCE SCOURS. Fresh pastures are more apt to produce scours, as is well known derangn)g the appetite and health to a greater extent than when confined to one field. The argument generally used in favor of two pastures, is that the daily trampmg of the cattle on the one pasture renders, the food less fresh' and palatable, and that the alternate pastures obviate this, giving time for grass to grow, thus producing more food and better results. The conclusion arrived at, is not true in fact. Stock when turned into a new pasture do not rest till they have roamed over and examined every part of it, and will tramp Practical Dairy Husbandry. 31 down, soil, and destroy more food than if the same land was in one pastm-e, thereby really affording or rendering available to the herd, a less amount oi nutritious food during the season. Cattle, it is true, like A CHANGE OF FOOD, but this change should exist in the varieties of grass in the same pasture, and not in different . fields. Of course the aftermath and gleanings from grain fields are to be consumed by stock in fall, as deemed expedient, but the sum- mer pasture should be one field, as productive of more milk with less trouble, expense and loss. PASTURES SHOULD NOT BE OYBRSTOCKED. Pastures, it is proper to say, should not be overstocked — the supply of food must be abundant, otherwise serious losses will be incurred. There is nothing gained by stocking clear up to, or a little beyond, the full capacity of the land, and trusting to an extraordinary good growing season to bring the animals through. Much milk will require a proportionate amount of food, and I have yet to see the cow miserly kept on scanty fare, that can turn that fare into a large dairy product. The rule should be, the largest quantity and best quality of dairy products per cow, and not the largest number of cows without thought or care as to the respective quantity or quality of milk from each. DAIRY BARNS. An important requisite in Dairy farming is to have a convenient barn. Indeed, of so much practical importance is this, that I must treat the subject at considerable length. A handy barn for a grain farm is a very different structure from what is needed on a dairy farm. Dairymen of experience affirm that a convenient dairy barn on a farm carrying fifty cows, will save an annual expense in labor of at least |200 over the structures in use twenty years ago, and, indeed, over those Avhich are largely in use at the present day. THE MODERN DAIRY BARN began to be erected in the old dairy districts of New York about ten years ago, and it is a matter of surprise that a people who have been sixty years engaged in dairying as a specialty, should have neglected this branch of their ' art so long. The modern dairy barn is roomy, and arranged, if possible, so that one building or a structure under one roof, will meet all the wants of the farm. This is easily done, when a side hill and running water are convenient to the farm house. In such cases the stables for milking are those in which the cows are kept in winter. This arrangement saves the cost of a special building, or " milk barn " as it is termed. The stables should not only be well lighted, but arranged with wide drop doors at the sides, so that for summer use you can expose a skeleton or section of the frame, admitting into the stable a flood of light and pure air. 32 Practical Dairy Husbandry. manure cellars. There has been great difference of oj)inion whether manure cellars under the stable are injurious or otherwise. Many barns in Central New York are constructed with the cellars unde: the stables, and in no instance where they have been properly ventilated, an absorbents used for taking up the liquid manure, have I heard of an bad effect on account of the manures, &c. The stock is quite as healthy, and appears as thrifty at all seasons, as in barns without manure cellars. I have examined manure cellars under stables, at different seasons of the year. Some of them were badly ventilated, and were foul with gases emana- ting from the decomposing mass of excrement which had been dumped with- out absorbents. Such a condition of things must be a source of disease t stock and cannot be recommended. In others, Avhere ventilation has been secured, and absorbents, such as muck, dry earth or sawdust freely used, the atmosphere was comparatively pure, and free from any disagreeable odor. Generally those who have manure cellars under their stables are pleased with them. They save a great deal of labor in the course of a year, and, with the precautions I have named as regards ventilation and absorbents, have not been found to be objectionable, A CONVENIENT DAIRY BARN. I shall describe somewhat minutely what has been found to be a conven- ient dairy barn having capacity for fifty cows. It has a basement or manure cellar under the stables. The barn stands on the edge of a knoll or side hill, and is one hundred feet long by forty feet wide, and has a stone basement nine feet high. The bottom of this basement, which is used for manures, is paved with cobble stones, pounded down in the earth, and then cemented with water lime and sand, in the proportion of one part lime to aine parts sand. This forms a perfectly tight bottom and is the receptacle for all liquid and solid excrement from stock in the stables above. The basement is well lighted and ventilated, and teams can be driven through the central alley for removing manures. Muck and dry earth are hauled into the central alley, during odd spells in summer, to be used from time to time as absorbents, and when thus mingled with the liquid and solid excrement a large quantity of fertilizing material is made. THE STABLES are on the sides of the building, immediately above the basement, and are eleven feet wide back of the feed box, and the cows are fed from the central alley, which is fourteen feet wide. The cows stand four feet apart, or rather they occupy that space, and are fastened with double chains two feet long, attached to a ring sliding on a post. Between each cow there is a plank partition extending into the central alley, the width of the feed box, and back intS the stable some two feet. This plan gives the cow more liberty and ease of position than stanchions, and some prefer these fastenings to stanchions on I Practical Dairy Husbandry, 33 this account. Back of the cows and along the outside of the stables, the floor is raised some five inches higher than the drop where the cows stand, and there is an open space between the two floors Avhere the manures are pushed into the cellar below. This it will be seen can be done very rapidly. (Some use a trap.) The stables are well lighted and ventilated. Above the cows are THE DRIVE FLOORS AND BATS where the teams deposit the hay and fodder. The loads come in at one end and go out at the side on the other end, so that several teams can be in the barn and the work of loading and unloading go on at the same time, and not interfere with each other. On one side of the barn are the HORSE STABLES AND CARRIAGE HOUSE, communicating with the upper or drive floor, and all arranged in the most perfect manner as to granary and the means of dropping hay for feeding horses and cattle. In the upper loft over the drive way, a flooring is arranged with open spaces, where a considerable quantity of corn in the stalk may be stored until such time as there is leisure for husking. The leading feature of the barns now being buiit in the dairy region is to have the drive floors and bays above the stables. When the site is suitable some prefer to have the drive way near the peak or top of the barn. The hay may then be rolled from the load on either side into the bays. In feeding, — the stables being below, — the fodder is thrown downwards, either through openings arranged in the bays, or in the central alley, accord- ing to the manner in which the cows are placed in the stables. A portion of the basement is partitioned off" for roots, which at the time of harvesting are dumped through a trap on the feed floor. Not far from the southern shores of Oneida Lake, and at the geograi^hical center of the State of New York, a peculiar religious sect, numbering about two hundi'ed votaries, has established itself upon a few hundred acres of choice land. They do almost everything among themselves, and conduct a system of mechanical oj)erations and high farming. They have men of science and education among them, and their workshops and farming operations are, in many respects, models of excellence. AK EXCELLENT DAIRY BARN. A few years since, they sent their architects through the country to exam- ine all the best barns that could be found, and from a large number of plans they modeled and erected a dairy barn of the following description : — It is one hundred and thirty-five feet long by seventy feet broad, and has a hip roof. The structure is of wood, resting on a stone basement nine feet high. The basement is divided by walls into spaces for the manures, the root cellar, land bottom of the bays. There are three drive ways or barn floors running 34 Practical Dairy Husbandry. across the building, with bays thirty feet square on either side of the central drive way, so that the teams can deliver their loads from the three floors. The stables run all around the outside, except in the spaces taken up by the drive way. The stables on the ends hold twenty cows each, and the four stables on the sides, between the floors, have nine stalls each, so that seventy- six animals can be housed at one time. Under the middle drive way is the root cellar, where roots are dumped by opening a trap door ; on the other floor are traps for dropping muck, or other absorbents into the manure cellar. The drive ways are fourteen feet wide, and the width of the stables sixteen feet, including the mangers, which are three feet. Back of the cows there is a manure sink two feet wide, and from this to the outside of the building is a space of five feet. There are four VENTILATORS that run from top to bottom so as to give good ventilation. Saw-dust and MiEADO^y BROOK K^RM: D^IRY B-A.RlNr-KLK'V^TION". cxxi straw are used for bedding stock. Of the straw, about four hundred loads are used for the purpose during winter. The hay is cut into chafl", and at certain seasons, when cows are in milk, it is mingled with meal or bran before being fed. When bran is used the coavs get each about four quarts per day. The root cellar holds about four thousand bushels, and the roots are fed during winter. It is the only barn I have seen arranged on this plan. The bays for hay extending into the basement seems to me to be objectionable. The arrangement for storing both hay and grain, and the feeding of stock, appear to be convenient. MEADOW BROOK FARM DAIRY BARN. By the politeness of Mr. Geo, S. Bowen, of Chicago, 111., I am in re- ceipt of the accompanying cuts showing elevation and plan of Dairy Barn Practical Dairy Husbandry. 35 LO'WTEB FLOOS. erected in 1870 upon his Meadow Brook Farm, near Elgin III, the following description being taken from the Western Rural : " The barn is L-shaped, the main being 96x30, the wing 40x36 ; its hight from the ground to the ridge-pole is forty-two feet. The lower floor, as will be seen by the accompanying diagram, is devoted to stalls, milk-room, water-trough, root-cellar, etc. " Mr. B. has contrived to secure ample and ready ventilation — a point which is very often considered too lightly in the construction of buildings of this character. The stalls occupy portions of both the main part and the wing, and will ac- commodate sixty-three cattle, with single feed boxes for each, and long, hinged supply lines immediately in front. There is a space of seven feet from the droB (or receptacle for the droppings) to the windows, which are large — their size admitting of increased ventilation during hot weather, and facilitating the re- moval of excremental matter. " A wind-mill pitmp is to be sup- plied to raise water into a reservoir so constructed as to fill the cooling vats in the milk-room, and to pro- vide water for the stock during stormy weather. " A protected flight of stairs leads from the lower to the upper floor, where there is a large room for storing farming utensils ; a grain- bin, 36x20 ; two bays for hay, one 76x12 and the other 36x12. The entrance floors are seventy-six and thirty-six feet, respectively, and reached by bridges or causeways leading from the ground. There are eight large sliding double doors, all moving on rollers, and four hay slides to get whatever is needed to the lower floor. Successive flights of UPPER FLOOR. 36 Practical Dairy Husbandry. stairs communicate with a large cupola. The cost of this barn was three thousand six hundred dollars. There were used in its construction one hun dred and ten thousand feet of lumber, fifty-five thousand shingles, and twc thousand eight hundred pounds of nails." ANOTHEE STYLE OF BAEIST is used by those who have a prejudice against manure cellars. It is built witi or without a basement. The cows stand in two rows opposite each other^ with their heads facing the outside of the building, and the space in the center between the cows and the drop is wide enough for a drive way for hauling out the manures. The cows enter at the central door, and take their place on either side. Absorbents may be used for taking up the liquid manures, and every day, when trie stables are to be cleaned, it is piled upon a sled or wagon and taken directly to a field where it is to be used. HOW MANUEES AEE MATSTAGED. Haeeis Lewis, Herkimer Co., N. Y., has been quite successful in managing the manures from his stock, from a barn of this description. He uses saw-dust for absorbing the liquid manures in his stables, at the rate of about sixty bushels per week for a stock of fifty cows. The liquid manure thus absorbed is hauled from day to day to a meadow lot containing twenty-five acres. It is spread as evenly as possible with a shovel or fork, and in the spring it is brushed, so as to be completely broken up and distributed in fine particles. By underdraining, and the use of this top dressing, he has been able to bring a piece of ground containing twenty-five acres, originally of only ordinary fertility, to a condition in which the annual yield of hay is sufficient for the winter keep of fifty cows. THE CONVENIENCE OF MANUEE CELLAES. Buildings of this kind, however, are much less convenient than those pro- vided with manure cellars, as there are many days in winter when it is stormy, and inconvenient and difficult to haul manure from the stables. Besides, if they are to be applied upon grounds that are somewhat descending, a consid- erable portion of the manure is liable to be washed away as the snow goes oflf in the spring. With the cellar, on the contrary, advantage can be taken of the time in applying manures, and practically they are found to be productive of the best results. BAENS FOE CUTTING AND STEAMING FODDEE. I have yet another barn to describe, adapted to a level surface, and where the straw from considerable quantities of grain is to be cut and steamed for cattle food. This barn was erected for Mr. Teuesdale, an extensive dairy farmer in Wisconsin, who spared no expense in obtaining the best models and architects, and who is said to have the most perfect dairy barn in that State. I visited this establishment in 1869, and give a sketch of it from my notes : The barn is an immense structure, being in outline the form of a T. The Practical Dairy Husbandry. 37 top of the T is one hundred and twelve feet long by forty feet wide, with twenty-two feet posts. The whole stands upon a heavy wall, which forms a cellar under the building for manures. The part representing the top of the T is used for threshing, shelling corn, grinding the grain and cutting the fod- der. Immediately to the right, but separated only by a short platform, is another building in which all the fodder is cooked by steam. The cattle stand in the body of the T, in two long stables at the sides, with their heads facing each other, the central alley being sixteen feet wide. The stables are nine feet wide, and the platform on which the cows stand is four feet nine inches to the stanchions,, leaving a ditch one foot wide and a space of three feet back of the ditch to the sides of the building. The stanchions are three feet three inches apart from center to center, and the platform on which the cows stand is raised so as to give a drojD of nine inches. Of this drop a space of five inches is left open, through which the manure is pushed to the I cellar below. The stables will accommodate one hundred and forty cows — seventy animals on a side. The second story (above the cows) is used for ( oats, grain unthreshed, and hay, the hay being stored in the lower end, in a section by itself, for spring use. THE THRESHING , is done as the straw and grain are needed for the stock. The threshing t machine and straw cutter are in the second story of the top of the T. The ; grain in bundles or loose, is thrown on a car, which runs on rails through I the different sections over the cows, and a load is drawn up to the machine i by a simple arrangement operated by power from the engine. The various machines are then set in motion, and as the straw is threshed it passes to the ■ straw cutter, and falls chopped in pieces, to a large bin below. The chaff is blown out of the grain and falls into the same bin, while the grain passes on and falls into a fan mill below, where it is cleaned, and goes into a bin. i Everything is arranged so conveniently, that but little labor or time is em- I ployed to do this part of the work, from time to time as needed. PREPARING THE FEED. The corn sheller and mill for grinding the grain are below with the grain bins opposite. Oats and corn are mingled together in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the latter, when it is carried by machinery above, t falls into the hopper, and is ground and passed to its appropriate bin. There I are two steam boxes sixteen feet long, five feet wide and five feet deep. They ■ stand upon cars, with a track leading through the central alley of the stable : to the steaming room. These cars are run up to the straw and meal bins, and lithe boxes filled. First the straw is filled into the steam box a foot deep, then one bushel of the mixture of oats and corn meal is sprinkled on, and so alter- mately with straw and meal until the box is filled, which gives four bushels of II meal to the box. Then the boxes are run into the steam room and the con- tents wet down by pumping water through a hose. 38 Practical Dairy Husbandry. At the bottom of the boxes are perforated iron j)ipes running three times lengthwise across the bottom, and arranged at one end so as to be locked on to the steam pipes connected with the engine. The cover is then fitted to the box, and the steam let on. In about half an hour the contents of the box are broken down and cooked. FEEDING THE COWS. The food steamed in the morning is thrown out into the car and left to cool till evening, when it is just pleasantly warm to the hand, and is ready for feeding. The night's steaming is treated in the same way for the morning feed. The cars are run along the central alley, between the heads .of the cows, and each animal receives her share in the manger before her. The two boxes of steamed food are sviificient for one feed of one hundred and forty head of cattle. It will be seen, therefore, that in addition to the straw, the one hundred and forty head get sixteen bushels of meal, or about three and one-half quarts of meal each per day. The cows are very fond of their rations, and under this treatment were looking sleek and in good condition. GAIN BY STEAMING FOOD. Mr. Truesdale's estimate shows about twenty-five per cent gain in cost of feed over the ordinary method where hay is used, to say nothing of the im- portant saving made in converting his straw into available manures.. The stock is wintered in this manner, and when the cows begin to come in milk, he commences feeding hay. The stables, I should have remarked, are well lighted, and ample provision is made for ventilation, so that the cows have really a luxurious abode in their winter quarters. ' THE MANURE CELLAR is immediately under the cow stables, and is well lighted and ventilated. In the fall of the yeai*, or during summer when work is not pressing, muck, which has been thrown out of the ditches and dried, is carted into the cellar and piled in the central alley as an absorbent. From five hundred to eight hundred loads of muck are thus stored annually. The liquid and solid excre- ment from the cows goes down into the cellar through the opening in the stable floor as I have described, and every day or two the muck from the central alley is thrown upon the dung until all moisture is absorbed. HOW THE MANURE IS USED. Mr. Truesdale's system here is, without doubt, a good one, and the large quantities of manure annually made, must in a few years give ample returns upon the farm. A portion of this manure is used for top-dressing meadows and newly seeded lands, in the fall, at the rate of about twenty loads to the acre, evenly spread and brushed down fine, and about fifty acres are annually treated in this way. Under this arrangement of barns and machinery, two men will take care of one hundred and forty head of cattle, steaming the food, cleaning the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 39 stables, and doing all the work necessary for the care aud comfort of the ani- mals. There are two open yards, one on each side of the barn, where the cows from each stable are provided with water, which is pumped from a never- failing well. These yards are partly planked, and are to be wholly planked the coming year. BARN" WITH FOUR ROWS OF STABLES. An Ohio correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends the following description of a Dairy Barn : Its distinguishing characteristics are a free use of tram-ways, and a separ- ate building for the factory operations incident to feeding a large drove of cattle, and for the storage of grain and feed. The size of the main barn is 96 by 56 feet; of factory, 24 by 20. The barn will hold one hundred and twenty cattle, and hogs ad libitum. The basement story, or hog and manure cellar, is not shown in the elevation. It is divided into pens for hogs, on either side of a central alley. The base- ment story of factory contains the steam engine and a continuation of the tram-way which passes through the hog cellar. The second floor of the barn contains the cattle stables, arranged for four rows of cattle, each double row facing a feeding alley in which there is a tram-way for the easy conveyance of the cooked food. The second story of the factory is for the grist mill, cider mill, saw frame, or any other machinery it is desired to use. A belt also runs to a separate shaft in the main barn, for turning the hay cutter, threshing machine and corn sheller. The third story of the barn contains the barn floor, with large bays on either side. Also a room for cutting hay and a bin for the cut feed. A tram- way and hay car are provided for the easy handling of the hay and fodder used. The corresponding story of the factory is for the reception of grain, and of meal from the grist mill below. The necessary spouts and elevators are pro- vided, as common in grist mills. In the fourth story of factory is stored the bran or mill feed. On a level with the purline plates is laid another floor for corn in the ear. This floor is also provided with tram-way and car. The stables are provided with manure traps, one foot by twelve, running the whole length of the stalls, and hung upon hinges. These render the cleaning of the stalls an easy task. If more accommodations are required, the length of the barn might be increased. One correspondent says : — I believe in this barn, three men might take care of one hundred and twenty cattle and five hundred hogs, including the running of the engine and the machinery. As to cost, no estimate can be made, since lumber and stone or brick vary so much in price in difierent localities. Where both are abundant, the cost would not exceed four thousand dollars. The accompanying plans will, perhaps, the better enable the reader to comprehend the arrangement of tlie barn. In Fig. 1 is shown the plan of the stables on the second floor, S, S, S, S, 40 Practical Dairy Husbandry. stalls for cattle ; M, M, M, M, mangers ; A, A, alleys in front of cattle ; Mt, Mt, Mt, manure traps; t, ?, tramways; St, switch track between alleys; machinery room is shown at end of elevation. Fig. 2, S, steam engine; ^, tramway; B, steam box. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 41 Fig. 3 shows a sectional view of barn and factory. A, first story; B, second story ; C, third story of barn ; D, D, hay bays ; E, corn loft ; e, e, (dotted line) ground level ; a, first, &, second, c, third, and £?, fourth stories of factory. PRACTICAL BEAKIjSTG OF MANURE CELLARS. I have given some of the leading features esteemed requisite in the con- iiiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiilliillllllllllllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilillllillllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^^ llliilillilii Fig. 1— Second Floor op Stock Barn. fVp Fig. 3.— Sectionai- View op Barn and Factory. Fig. 2.— Engine Room. struction of a convenient dairy barn. Of course the size of building and m- ternal arrangements may be modified to suit the wants of particular cases ; but I regard the manure cellars underneath the stable of great practical utility, I have seen such rapid and large improvement in dairy lands from its adoption, 42 Pb ACTIO AL Daisy Husbandry. that it has commended itself strongly to favor. I know of farms that were quite ordinary a few years ago that are now made to carry an extraordinarily large stock, and I have repeatedly asked the occupants in what manner they h^ve been enabled to produce crops sufficient to supply food for an extra number of cows upon the farm (sometimes double the number that are kept on adjoining farms of the same size,) and the reply has been that the result was accomplished through the manure cellar. Before the manure cellar was inaugurated they say :— " Do the best we could, much of the manure went to waste. The quantity at most was small compared with what is at present turned oif, and yet the labor expended under the old system was vastly greater than now. I do not say but there are other methods for producing the same results, but they cost more, are less convenient, and from the liability of neg- lect are not so likely to prove successful. THE DAIRY HOUSE. The question is often asked whether under our factory system a dairy house is required on the farm. I should advise such a structure, though it need not be so expensive and elaborate as is sometimes seen \mder the old system of family dairying. The building should be arranged and fitted up for both butter and cheese manufacture. The reason for the erection of such a structure even in cases where the milk is to be carried to a factory will, from a moment's reflection, be obvious. In the first place, the factories open and close operations at stated periods, and during the time they are not working considerable quantities of milk must be cared for and utilized at the farm. With no provision for the care and manufacture of such milk, the annual loss from waste will soon amount to more than the cost of building and fixtures, to say nothing of the worry and trouble in trying to utilize the milk without any conveniences. Again, occasions occur when it is desirable to make up the milk on the farm to secure the butter or cheese for family use. Possibly, from time to time some accident may happen which would exclude a batch of milk from the factory, and in such cases it may often be worked up on the farm without material loss. Cases not unfrequently occur where a factory is badly managed, where the cheese or butter maker is incompetent, and while such a condition of things remains, or during the time it may take to make a change of manu- tacturers, it will be desirable to hold the milk at the farm. There are a variety of circumstances constantly occurring in neighborhoods where fac- tories exist which make the necessity for a dairy house imperative, if the dairymen would avoid losses, and I therefore think it economy to provide such structures, and I hold that they belong to good dairy management. what is a proper dairy house, and how should it be located ? For convenience it should be situated near the milking stables, but out of the way of odors and gases arising from the decomposition of manures, since milk absorbs these with great facility, result- Practical Dairy Husbandry. 43 ing in injury to the product. Where side-hills are convenient to the other buildings they afford advantageous situations for placing the dairy house. In such cases the lower story of the house, if built of stone, Avill help to secure a low and even temperature for the milk room. A building twenty-five feet by thirty feet, a story and a half high, would be ample for a dairy of forty cows. The lower part should be divided into two departments, one for butter manufacture and the other for cheese. The two departments should be ar- ranged so as to afford easy communication, the one with the other. If COLD SPRIK^G WATER can be conducted into the house the butter department should be arranged with water tanks sunk into the earth to hold water twenty inches deep. The tanks may be made of wood, but are better if of stone, well cemented. Pipes leading from the tank or tanks through the wall on the lower side of the building will conduct off surplus water. These tanks are tor holding the cans of milk for obtaining cream and will be more fully described hereafter under the head of butter manufacture. There should also be A SMALL BUTTER CELLAR connected with this department by partitioning off a part of the room next the bank or hillside. The milk room should have windows at the upper part or near the ceiling protected with gaiize wire, so as to be used for ventilation. The floor of THE CHEESE MAKING ROOM may be a step higher than the butter room, and should be provided with self- heating vat for cheese making, pi-ess, hoops, and curd knife. The story above should be in one room, and is to be employed for curing cheese. There should be a large ventilator in the center, rising above the roof of the build- ing and extending through the ceiling of the curing room provided with a wicket by which the draught may be regulated or shut off as desired. About the sides of the room, and even with the floor there should be openings nine inches by twelve, arranged with wickets, so that air may be admitted in large or small quantities, or closed off, as needed. With the small ventilators at the sides and the large ventilator in the center THE CURING ROOM may be kept free from impurities and noxious gases, while the temperature to sojne extent may be controlled in warm weather. The curing room should be well lighted, as light operates beneficially in securing a fine flavor to the cheese. When the dairy house is to be located on a level surface, and stone is ex- pensive or not convenient, the building may be wholly of wood, the bottom room having double walls, and if possible should be shaded by trees. Instead of tanks set in the ground the room may be provided with the jenning's pans. The pans consist of large shallow tin vats, set in Avooden vats, with spaces 44 Practical Dairy Husbandry. between for water. The pans are of various sizes and one pan is designed to liold the entire mess of milk of the dairy at one milking. The water may be con- veyed to the pans either by pipes leading from the penstock, or it may be Prac'iical Dairy Husbandry. 45 drawn from the well. I have not proposed here to enter into minute descrip- tions of dairy house and apparatus, as these more properly belong to the topics in which butter and cheese manufacture are considered. But I have given some of the leading features required in the construction of these establishments, from which a general idea may be had. DESCEIPTION AND PLAIS" OF A FARM DAIRY HOUSE. In the plan of farm dairy house here presented, economy, simplicity and convenience have been studied, together with the means of regulating tem- perature in the cheese-curing room to some extent by the use of wickets and ventilators. The design is for farms where cheese dairying is conducted as a specialty and where from twenty-five to thirty-five cows are kept. PIAZZA 1 w 1 pi 1 1 '^ g 1 1 E fl — E — CURING ROOM TABLE BASEMENT, OB FEBST FLOOR. W A W SECOND FLOOR. A building twenty-four feet by thirty feet, story and a-half high, will be large enough for an ordinary sized dairy — say of the number of cows above- named. Light is to be admitted only on the north and south sides, as less liable to let rays of the sun fall on the cheese. The lower part is divided into rooms for making cheese, twelve by fourteen feet ; store-room, ten by twelve feet ; the balance, wood house, eighteen by twenty-four feet. If desired, a portion of this latter room may be partitioned ofi", or nearly the whole of it converted into a place for setting milk for butter during spring and fall. A piazza runs along the sides of the store room and room for making cheese, rendering these parts cooler in summer, and affording a convenient place for drying aud sunning utensils. The upper part of building, the cheese-curing room, twenty-four by thirty feet, eight feet high, studded, and lathed and plastered. A ventilator runs from ceiling in center of room above the roof, termi- 46 ' Practical Dairy Husbandry. nating in usual form with arrangements at ceiling for closing draft entirely, or conducting larger or smaller quantities of air as desired. Air is admitted under the roof (where it joins the fides of the building) into the garret, so that by opening slides inside the ventilator above the ceiling, a current of air may be maintained in the garret part. Openings, with wickets, are placed at the bottom of the room, and along and through the sides of the building, to the open air — three or more on a side. These openings are ten inches by twenty inches ; the wickets close tight or admit more or less air as desired at pleasure. An ice reservoir or refrigerator on rollers can be set in the room in which ice may be exposed if neccessary, in extremely hot weather. A good coal stove, tables with he'tnlock bed-piece, for holding the cheese, thermometer and platform scales. These are the general features of the dairy house suggestad. The whole will be readily understood by the cuts : — O, O, openings with Avickets ; C, chimney ; E, elevator ; D, door for delivering cheese ; A, alleys ; W, windows ; V, vat and heater for making cheese ; P, cheese press ; E, ele- vator for elevating cheese ; S, stairs ; P, cistern pump. AN ABUNDANCE OF GOOD WATER. In regard to water I start with the broad proposition universally recog- nized by dairymen of long experience, both in this covmtry and in Europe that dairying cannot be successfully conducted without an abundance of good water to meet the daily wants of stock. Stagnant water, the water from sloughs, mingled as it often is with a considerable per centage of vegetable matter, even though it be abundant and easy of access, has an unfavorable influence on the flavor of " dairy goods," and of itself precludes the dairy- man from reaching the highest standard in his product. I have no space now to discuss the physiological side of this question, but I state a fact abundantly proved in practical experience. There is great difierence of opinion among people who are not experts as to WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD BUTTER AND GOOD CHEESE. Persons whose tastes have been educated by long use of an inferior product do not readily appreciate the imperfections existing in second class goods. The great markets of the world are demanding better grades of food than they did twenty or even ten years ago, and in no class of food is this more observ- able than in dairy products. It is only the best article that really pays or is made remunerative to the producer for a series of years. We must look then to some of THE LEADING REQUISITES TO SUCCESS. To the dairyman an abundance of pure water, of easy access to stock, will be found important. Many suppose that if there be water located on one part of the farm, the other parts being dry, that will suffice for all practical pur- poses in supplying the needs of dairy stock. This is a mistake, especially Practical Dairy Husbandry. 47 where large herds are to be kept. Cows should at no time be compelled to travel long distances to slake their thirst, since the greater exertion and labor imposed must in proportion affect the quantity as well as the quality of their milk. Instances have repeatedly come under my observation where springs have failed and cows, in consequence, subjected to travel over a considerable distance to gcit water. The milk not only fell off rapidly in quantity, but in several Avays depreciated in quality, especially in hot weather, showing a ten- dency to quick decomposition, and giving an inferior product when worked into cheese. Water should be so conveniently situated in pastures that stock will require no extra or special travel to obtain it, and it should be situated at such points in the field that stock feeding over the ground naturally go toward it, so that when a supply of food has been taken, the animals may slake their thirst, lie down and quietly convert their food into milk. MILCH STOCK AVERSE TO EXERCISE. For it must be observed that milch stock are averse to any large amount of exercise, and do not ordinarily care to take more than is necessary in sup- plying themselves with food. . Give them plenty of food and an easy access to water and they quickly fill themselves and spend most of their time at rest. When water is situated in out of the way places on the farm, cows will often go thirsty for a considerable portion of the day rather than make a special journey to obtain it. This has been observed by all practical farmers, and yet it is curious that many who are conversant with the fact neglect to take proper advantage of this peculiarity in the habits of the animal. It is an important object with the dairyman who desires the highest success, to j^i'omote as far as may be (without resorting to artificial means,) the taking of an abundant quantity of water by his herd. Milk cannot be made without water, and when it is secreted largely, a large amount of water is absolutely required. WATER IN MILK. Milk of an average good quality contains in one hundred parts from eighty-five to eighty-seven parts of water. Is it not surprising that any one would suppose that a material like this could be of excellent quality when the dilution is made up from pools of stagnant or putrid water, which would be shunned by every intelligent mind as the very hot-beds of disease ? And yet we often compel our animals to drink this character of water and expect them to manufacture from it a pure, healthy milk. The subject demands attention everywhere. Where there are an abundance of streams and springs of living water they only require to be properly utilized, but where they fail the diffi- culty can be obviated in the application of wind-power for raising water from wells. WIND-POWER FOR PUMPING WATER. The modern windmill is a very different affair from the old cumbersome and expensive power, which needed constant attention to make it serviceable. 48 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The modern windmill regulates its own sails according to the force of the wind. It is started or stopped with the greatest ease ; it is easily erected and is not expensive, and therefore comes within the reach of any ordinary farmer. Where pure water then may be had from wells, there can be no excuse for sub- jecting the herd to the bad influences I have enumerated, and I am convinced that one of the troubles complained of in the flavor of cheese is caused by bad water, and the sooner dairy farmers look this thing fairly in the face and set about correcting the evil, the sooner will they be on the right road to success. It should be understood that bad water must always be an insepar- able objection to the production of the nicer grades of butter and cheese. Where good clean running water cannot be had, I should advise the digging of wells and the use of wind-poAver for pumping water, at convenient points over the pasture lands. Then large tanks or troughs should be provided and arranged so that the surplus water may flow back into the well, as this course keeps the water in motion and obviates, in a measure, the necessity of extreme care and attention. SHADES IN PASTTJEES. There are those who advocate that shades in pastures are detrimental to milch cows ; or rather, that shade trees, by affording a comfortable place for cows to rest during hot weather, cause a decrease in their milk, and therefore they are objectionable, by holding out inducements to and fostering habits of laziness on the part of the cows. They reason that cows, to yield a large quantity of milk, will require a proportionate amount of food ; that the longer you can keep the cow feeding, the more grass she will store away to be manu- factured into milk. In hot weather, they say, cows are not disposed to be industrious, but lounge lazily under shade trees in the middle of the day, wast- ing valuable time and, what is of more consequence, neglecting to keep the milk-producing machinery in vigorous operation. If the pastures are deprived of shade, they say the cows will find it uncomfortable resting in the hot sim, will prefer to keep more upon their feet, and are therefore induced to spend most of their time in feeding. Some dairymen therefore cut down and destroy every vestige of shade in pastures, and are earnestly recommending this sys- tem to the dairy public. I hear of some so eager in carrying out this princi- ple that pains are taken to go out among the herd from time to time during the day, starting the animals up from their resting places, and thus urging them to the consumption of more food. I do not approve of this system, nor do I believe that it has any advan- tages on the score of economy. It certainly cannot commend itself for its humanity, since the system is a species of cruelty and a disregard for the comfort of creatures which, though dumb and devoid of reason, have the more claim to our kind care and protection. > THE FORCING SYSTEM. It is undoubtedly true that the quantity of milk can be increased under a Practical Dairy Husbandry. 49 forcing system of feeding if certain circumstances and conditions are ob- served. And, first among these conditions is quietness and freedom from anything like labor or extra exertion on the part of the cow. A certain amount of exercise may be needed for health, but all exercise produces a waste of the animal structure which must be repaired by food. The first office of food is to support respiration and repair the natural waste of the body, and if the waste is excessive, by reason of excessive labor, the food will go first to supply this waste and after that for the production of milk. Hence, those who study to get large results from milch cows are careful to KEEP THE ANIMALS AS QUIET AS POSSIBLE, avoiding excessive travel or labor, taking care that there be no disturbing causes for excitement, such as fear, anxiety, or solicitude, for these waste food, and check the secretion of milk to a much larger extent than most people imagine. The jsrinciple is true, whether acknowledged or not, that the more comfortable we make our milk stock the better will be the results. If during the heat of the day cattle seek shade and lie down to rest, their quietness, com- fort and enjoyment will add more to the milk-pail than food taken in discom- fort and excessive exercise. We are presuming, of course, that the animals are placed in pastures that afibrd an abundance of food, and pastures should never be overstocked. In good pastures IT IS NOT NECESSARY THAT COWS SHOULD BE CONSTANTLY FEEDING, for we can see from the peculiar structure of their stomachs, that nature in- tended a considerable portion of time to be spent at rest, that the process of rumination and digestion be perfected. The first stomach seems to be simply a receptacle for storing up a quantity of food to be used and enjoyed at leisure. The food as it goes into the first stomach is very imperfectly masticated. After having filled this receptacle the animal rests from her labors and is now prepared to enjoy her food, which is thrown back in small quantities into the mouth, where it is chewed, and then goes into the third and fourth stomachs to be properly assimilated and digested. Hence rest is required ; and to de- prive the animal of a comfortable resting-place or to drive her out in the hot sun while in the act of rumination or masticating her food is not only cruel but a piece of intolerable stupidity. THE ONLY KEAL ARGUMENT AGAINST SHADE TREES in pastures is, that the animals collect there and deposit manure where it is not needed. The proper way to avoid this is to erect temporary shades, and they can be removed from time to time to difierent parts of the field and thus be made of double service — afibrding comfort to cattle and manuring the land. I have seen this plan adopted with the best results ; the temporary shades being placed on barren knolls and the poorest parts of the pastures, and these places were thus brought into a high state of fertility. I believe in shade 4 50 Practical Dairy Husbandry. trees and shades in pastures, and am convinced from observation and expe- rience that the herds do better with them than without them. It is an inhuman practice to compel cattle to bear the intense rays of the sun during our hot summers. They need protection at such seasons, and if man finds shade at times 'not only grateful but necessary, I cannot see why the same rule may not apply ia some degree to our domestic animals. It is true they may not die from- exposure to the sun's rays, but if the hot, panting beasts could speak we should learn that their health was not promoted by this exposure. MANAGEMENT OF GRASS LANDS, THE GRASS CROP IS, without doubt, one of the most, if not the most important of any known to aoriculture. It is the basis for all successful farming. It is the natural food of our most useful animals, and without grass we should soon have no stock, no manures, and scarcely any cultivated crop. The money value of the grass crop in the United States is immense. Lewis F. Allen, in his work on American cattle, estimates the number of neat cattle in the States and Terri- tories in 1867 at 28,145,240 head, and he puts their value at a thousand mil- lions of dollars. That is only one item which may be credited to grass ; for if we add the annual product of the ten millions of milch cows, together with the horses and the sheep and wool of the country, we shall begin to appreciate how much the nation owes to grass for its prosperity and wealth. Indeed, the enormous value of this crop is comparatively overlooked by political econo- mists in their calculations. Before going into an examination of its pecuniary value let us look for a moment at its value in the higher and more extensive relations it bears to the comforts not only, but existence of the human race. " All flesh is grass," say the Scriptures, but in a different and more ex- tensive sense than is there conveyed is, truly, all flesh grass. Strike out of existence the two great families of the bovine and wool-bearing animals, and where would the human race be left ? To say nothing of the innumerable comforts that spring from these two races of animals, such as wool, leather, &c., for which various substitutes could be doubtless discovered, the very existence of a large part of mankind is directly dependent upon them. Despising all vegetarian theories, we only call upon the common sense of mankind to prove that without meat, which is itself fed, nourished, and sus- tained upon grass and grass alone, one-half the human race would perish at once. Such is the value of grass aesthetically considered. But look at the PECUNIARY VALUE OP GRASS, and for this purpose we may refer to official statistics. In the report of the Agricultural Department for 1864 the value of the hay crop that year in the United States is put at $365,707,074. Commissioner Wells gives the hay 52 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. ^ crop of 1860 at 25,000,000 tons. He estimates its value at llOper ton, which amounts to 1250,000,000. But the value of pasturage must be equally as great, or greater. For probably, taking the country together, the hay represents the maintenance of the live stock for one-third only of the year, while pasturage embraces tAVO-thirds. Then there is the labor of gathering the hay, which goes into its value to offset a part of that. "We cannot estimate the value of the grass crop for 1869, therefore, at less than 1700,000,000. Remember we speak here of grass in its popular sense, as embracing the clovers, which, strictly speak- ing, belong to the leguminous family of plants. Now the cotton crop of 1869 was valued at $303,000,000, corn at |450,000,- 000, wheat, 1375,000,000, oats, $137,000,000, potatoes, $90,000,000. Who will say in view of these facts that cotton, or corn, or wheat is king ? Among all the productions of the earth grass, unpretentious though it be, is truly king. It is the only truly indispensable product of the earth that nature herself takes care shall not fail. But for dairy farmers — who owe so much to this crop, and which if it failed but for a single season wide-spread ruin would stalk abroad — its importance need not further be discussed. The great question with dairy farmers to-day and at all times must be in what way can grass be made to thrive and produce abundantly ? The ques- tion is a broad one and I shall first touch upon the matter of pastures. PASTUEES, OVERSTOCKING, ETC. In the first place many pastures are habitually overstocked. By this prac- tice the roots of grasses and the whole plants are kept so small that their growth is feeble, and not one-half the feed is afforded that the land would produce if stocked lightly a year or two and the grass allowed to get a good thrifty start. But this is not the only disadvantage from overstocking. The feebly growth of the grasses allows other plants to creep in, and the ground soon be- comes overrun with weeds, which on account of their not being cropped by stock, grow in great luxuriance, maturing their seed and thus impoverishing the soil. THE CUESE OF AMEEICAISr DAIEYIKG to-day is weeds. When once they get full possession they become so formid- able that the farmer is often disheartened and gives up their eradication. Many farmers, too, have an erroneous notion in regard to the destruction of weeds on grass lands. The impression often prevails that the only way of getting rid of weeds is to break up and thoroughly cultivate the ground in hoed cro^^s. This is not always convenient or even desirable, for in many cases it cannot be done without breaking up the herd or dairy, while some uneven sui-faces cannot be plowed. There is another way of killing weeds such as the daisy and that class of plants, by the liberal use of manures and grass seeds. I have erad- icated white daisy in several instances by simply applying farm yard dung and gypsum, and strewing the ground with a heavy seeding of clover. Establish Practical Dairy Husbandry. 63 your clover upon the soil and feed it until it is luxuriant and it destroys the daisy and other weeds, by a system of plant-garroting, strangling and chok- ing the life out of them. Then some weeds may be killed by frequent cutting • and not allowing them to seed. It is always advisable to pull up or extermi- nate bad weeds on their first appearance in pastures, and not allow them to 'spread. The subject of pastures is of great importance to the dairy interest. To know how to produce milk cheaply and of the best quality, is the underlying stone of the dairyman's success. The points to be determined, it seems to me, are these : "WHAT KIND OF PASTUKES ARE BEST FOR THE DAIRY ? Are they those which have been long in grass, or are they those which have been recently plowed and re-seeded ? Can pastures be kept productive when remaining long in grass ; or in beginning to fail, is it necessary to renew by plowing and re-seeding ; and, finally, what are the cheapest as well as the best modes of obtaining quality and productiveness of pasturage ? In considering these questions it should be borne in mind that the subject has reference to pastures for the production of milk, or those adapted to the dairy. Soils vary in character, and when under the modifying influence of climate and location, exhibit a peculiar fitness for certain plants ; thus we have those best adapted to the production of grain, grass, fruit, or for those abounding in textile fiber. I have said you cannot profitably carry the daiiy upon the extensive plains of the West and South-west. They lack water. Pastures become brown and dried up long before midsummer ; nor will they hold grasses of any ap- proved kind for any long time. We are not, therefore, to consider the treat- ment of all pasture lands alike, but of those that are particularly well adapted to grass, and which cover a considerable portion of the lands known as the dairy region. Now, what are we to do with pasture lands that begin to fail from over- cropping, or from other causes ? Shall we plow them up, re-seed, or shall we adopt some other mode of renovation ? I know of pastures that have been in grass for sixty years and upwards, and to-day show no signs of failure, Wherever I have been through the dairy region I find these pastures, and it is the universal testimony of those who have them that they are yielding better returns in milk than any recently re-seeded grounds. I have seen old pastures plowed, re-seeded, and put in meadow, where the annual crop for a few years was large, but when put back again in pastures gave poor returns, and took years to obtain a nice, thick sod. This may not always be the case, but it is frequent and, I am inclined to think, general. It may be said that the fault lay in re-seeding ; that a greater variety of seeds should have been sown, timothy, the clovers, orchard-grass, blue grass, red top, &c. Our farmers generally, I believe, seed mostly with timothy, f 54 Practical Dairy Husbandry. clover and red top, using the ground at first for meadows, and afterwards for pastures. What we want (and it is usually that which obtains in old pastures) ■ is a variety of grasses springing up in succession, and those that will bear cropping, so that they will afibrd a good fresh bite from May till November. OLD PASTURES are generally filled with a variety of plants that are adapted to the soil, and in plowing and taking ofi" grain crops and then re-seeding, the conditions or elements of fertility are somewhat changed, so that anticipated results are not always obtained. In 1855 I plowed up an old meadow, about two acres of which was yield- ing large crops of timothy and clover, but so situated in the field that the hay crop could not be got off in time. I took from these two acres the first year one hundred and eighty bushels of corn and the second year one hundred bushels of barley, when the land was seeded down to timothy and clover. For two or three years it did not produce satisfactorily, though receiving the usual dressing of plaster. I also top-dressed it with stable manure — perhaps twenty loads to the acre — but without getting the large crops of grass that I did before re-seeding. Some mineral elements, therefore, I supposed to be wanting — perhaps potash, and so I top-dressed with ashes and had no further trouble. I have seen quite a number of old pastures that were yielding tolerably well, plowed with somewhat similar results. The land would bear abundant crops of grain, but grass failed to be enduring, or \vas less nutri- - tious, and hence frequent plowings and re-seedings were resorted to. OLD PASTURES FOR FATTENING STOCK. I have visited many stock farms where men make a business of buying cattle and fattening them for the market, and they say to me that they havp never been able 'to fatten stock with that facility from grass raised on newly seeded grounds as on that of those put down many years ago, or from pas- tures that have never been broken up at all. Others make similar statements. I shall not dispute the point that we may doctor up our lands to produce any desired crop, but to do so is expensive, and will often require more science and skill than are common in the country. When nature furnishes the conditions for producing grasses that give the best results in milk, and when these grasses become firmly established in the soil, are we not pursuing a suicidal policy in destroying them, by over-cropping, or by allowing weeds to smother and crowd them from the soil, under the impres- sion that our pastures can be renewed at any time by plowing and re-seeding ? Woiild it not be better and cheaper to exterminate weeds and give our pastures some rest during the hot, dry weather of July and August, by feed- ing sowed corn instead of cropping down to the roots and allowing the sun to roast them oiit and destroy the plants ? It is the weeds, and over-cropping, and unprotected covering of pasture lands in hot weather that are the fruitful sources of failure of grass in pastures. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 65 Generally on rich soils, like those of Herkimer, IS". Y., the old dairy pastures need but little, if any, organic matter ; the decay of roots and the droppings of stock supply this matter in abundance, and hence the application of cheap min- eral manures is that which is most needed. These, of course, can be readily supplied , but if we are to plow ujd and take off grain crops, barn-yard manures must be used, which are more expensive. It is very unprofitable for the dairyman to break up lands that are yielding, or can be made to yield readily, good crops of grass. Our most successful dairymen in the Eastern and Middle States believe that grain can be pur- chased from abroad cheaper than they can raise it. Grain raising, therefore, with many is considered a matter of necessity rather than choice, but grass fails and the lands are plowed and re-seeded. This may be well enough for meadows, but is not so conveniently managed in pastures. If a part of the pasture land begins to fail and it is designed to plow and re-seed, the land must be fenced, which is expensive and often inconvenient. But after getting it down to grass cattle cannot be turned in until the plants become somewhat established, as they tread up the ground, pull up the grass by the roots, and by midsummer there is a barren field. Again, to plow pas- ture lands the herd must be reduced to meet the necessities of the case. This is also an objectionable feature, and one that is always distasteful to the dairyman. TOP-DEESSING GRASS LANDS. When grass utterly fails, plowing and re-seeding doubtless should be re- sorted to ; but generally pasture lands may be kept permanently in grass by giving them a little extra care and attention. If they begin to fail from over- cropping or neglect, a judicious course of top-dressing and sowing seed will be found preferable to the plow. Usually on the black, slate lands of Herki- mer, plaster at the rate of one hundred to two hundred pounds to the acre every alternate year will keep pasture lands in good rded 122 Practical Dairy Husbandry. by the blood vessels ; if the veins which surround the udder are large, m winding and varicose, they show that the glands receive much blood, and consequently that their functions are active and that milk is abundant. The veins on the lateral parts of the belly are easily observed. These veins issue from the udder in front, and at the outer angle, where they form, in good cows, a considerable varicose swelling. They proceed toward the front part of the body, forming angles more or less distinct, often divide toward their anterior extremity, and sink into the body by several openings." guenon's discoveries. Some years ago Mons. Guenon, a Frenchman, made the discovery that cows known as " good milkers," had certain characteristic mai'ks, shown in the hair growing upon the udder, and upon and between the thighs above the udder. Following out this peculiarity on diiferent animals, and noting the variations in the marks on a great number of cows, from the best to the most inferior milkers, he was enabled to establish his theory of the " milk mirror " or " escutcheon," as it is termed. The basis of the theory may be stated in general terms, as follows : — The hair on the buttocks of cattle grows in two different directions, one portion pointing upward, and another part downward, and thus producing a sort of fringe at the point of juncture. The hair which has an upward tendency, has been termed the " escutcheon," the larger the extent of the " escutcheon," according to M. GtiEisroN, the greater the promise of milk, and also of the continuance even after the cow is in calf. A cow may have a small escutcheon, and yet be a good milker ; but observation leads to the conclusion, that if she possessed a more fully devel- oped escutcheon, she would have been a better milker. In estimating the extent of the escutcheon, allowance should be made for the folds in the skin, otherwise a large escutcheon may be taken for a small one. Besides the escutcheon there are tufts of hair which, when seen on the cow's udder, have a certain degree of value. It may be observed here, that M. Guengjst's theory is very elaborate, and cannot be relied upon in all its details, though its general outlines or leading features, when taken in connection with the shape and size of the cow, the texture of her skin, development of the udder and milk vein, her disposition, endurance of constitution and other points, give valuable aid in selecting good milkers. The principles laid down by M. GuENON, are of considerable value as additional aids to other well known points of a good cow, but they should not be relied upon singly and alone, as indicating what is, and what is not, a good milker in every case. I have known " experts " in the theory to be deceived, or make bad selections in cows ; and I have been misled, relying too much upon the marks, or escutch- eon, overlooking perhaps other essential considerations. MAGNE's CLASSIFICATIOlSr OF COWS. M. Magne, in his summary of M. Guenon's system, divides the cows according to the quantity of milk which they give into four classes. Practical Dairy Husbandry, 123 PIEST-RATE COWS are in that class, where both divisions of the lower escutcheon, the mam- mary and the perineum, are large, continuous and uniform, and cover at least a large portion of the perineum, the inside of the thighs and udder, and extend moreover, with little or no break, more or less over the limbs, eliptical in shape, and situated in the posterior face of the udder (Fig.1,2). But the cows may be Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. considered first-rate as milkers, if in the absence of a well developed escut- cheon, they possess the following marks : — Veins of the perineum, varicose and visible externally, or at least easily made so by compression at the base of the perineum ; veins of the udder large and knotty ; milk veins frequently double, and equal on both sides of the animal, and forming zigzag or wavy lines within the belly. In addition to the marks shown by the veins and by the escutcheon, the udder should be large and yielding, of homogeneous texture, having a thin skin covered with fine hair, and yielding or shrinking much under the process of milking. The chest should be ample, and a good constitution displayed by regular appetite, and a disj)osition to drink much ; the skin soft and supple ; hair short and soft ; head small ; horns fine and smooth ; eye quick, but gentle ; fine neck and feminine air. GOOD cows are those that present the mammary portions of the escutcheon well devel- oped ; but the perineum portion is either wanting or but partially developed. (Figs. 3, 4). If the escutcheon is ever so well developed, the cows are middling or bad, and do not belong to the first or second class, if the veins 124 Practical Dairy Husbandry. n of the udder are not iu considerable numbers, and the milk veins under the belly are not large. MEDIOCRE COWS possess the lower tuft of the escutcheon of the mammary part, little devel- oped or indented, and the perineum portion irregular, narrow and contracted. Fig. 4. Fig. 5. Fig. 6. (Figs. 5, 6). The perineum veins are not visible, and the veins of the belly are small and straight. The head is large, skin stiff and thick, and the animal is often peevish and restless. BAD cows possess escutcheons of very small extent (as shown in Figs. 7, 8) ; no veins are visible in the udder or the perineum, and the milk veins are feebly developed. The cows of this class are generally in good condition, and showy, taking animals, the thighs are fleshy, the skin hard and thick, neck thick, head and horns large, and the latter of large dimensions at the base." I have perhaps quoted sufficient to show the general outlines of M.- Gue- non's theory, without going into an elaborate essay on the subject, which would need a large number of cuts to be clearly explained. But desirable as it may be for the dairyman to have a good strain of milking stock, his success will not depend altogether upon blood and skill in breeding. THE FEEDIISTG AND MANAGEMENT of his herd is an art which he will find is not to be learned in all its details in a day. Some dairymen never can, or at least never do, learn it. During Practical Dairy Husbandry. 125 the past ten years my business has called me very much among dairymen, where almost every variety of management is adopted. I have seen men with " scrub-herds," picked up here and there from the common stock of the country, obtaining an enormous product. I know men who get from common stock an annual yield of between six hundred and seven hundred pounds of cheese to the cow, while perhaps a neighbor with much superior blooded stock is unable to obtain anything like that product. How is this eifected ? In the first place these men have a natural talent for selecting good cows, and in the second place, they seem to be in perfect sympathy with the animals under their control, attending to every detail for their comfort, providing wholesome, nutritious food, janre water and pure air — everything of this kind in abundance — keeping the animals properly sheltered from storms ; feeding always with great regularity ; paying the most marked attention to the time and manner of milking, and withal preserving a uniform kindness and gentle- Fig. Y. ness of treatment throughout every operation, a gentleness extending even to the tone of the voice. It is really astonishing what a large difierence in the yield of milk it makes by attending properly to a number of small things, which would seem to many quite too insignificant to be worth observing. Indeed, had I not seen these effects in numerous instances and in my own experience, I could never have believed that their influence was so potent. DRYING COWS OF THEIR MILK. It would be impossible, in the scope of the present volume, to discuss all the essential points of management for dairy stock. I can allude only to some 126 Practical Dairy Husbandry. of the leading requisites for success. I commence first with drying cows of their milk at the end of the milking season. There is great difference in opinion among farmers as to the time that a cow should go dry. Some contend that no injury follows from milking cows so long as they will yield milk, or up to within a week or two of the time at which they are to calve; while others insist that at least from two to three months should be given a cow to go dry. The latter is doubtless the 'more sensible and judicious course to be adopted. A cow that is to "come in " during the early part of March, should be allowed to go dry in December. She will then have time to recu- perate and repair that waste which has been going on in the production of milk, and in building up the structure of th: young which she carries. It is a great drain on the system to continue the milking of a cow in winter, and up to near the time of giving birth to her calf; and it is to be doubted whether an animal treated in this way will yield any more, if as much profit, as she would were the other course adopted. For it is not altogether the quantity of milk that is to be looked after,. but its quality must also be taken into account. Cows that are overtaxed and Aveak, yield milk of poorer quality than when in vigorous liealth. And as to the question of health, endurance and long life, all experience must show that the animals wear out sooner, are more liable to disease and mishaps, under the "excessive milking system," than when allowed a reasonable time for rest. FALL AND WINTER FOOD FOR COWS. But what makes the matter worse is, that many dairymen provide no feed beyond hay to animals yielding milk during the winter. They are often exposed to biting storms of rain, and sleet and piercing winds, all of which operate in reducing the tone of health, and in undermining the constitution. Hence we not unfrequently see cows wasting away with consumption, and meeting with little accidents that prove fiital, because the cows have not the vigor to resist them. Some cows, it is true, are inclined to give milk the year round, and are difficult to be dried off. Such animals require some- thing more than hay ; and an additional feed of ground grain (oat and corn- meal mixed), should be commenced to be given in the fall, or at least as soon as grass begins to depreciate in its nutritive quality. " Frozen grass and moonshine," even though furnished in great abundance, are not the kind of food on which deep milkers thrive and are invigorated. Cows, Avhether in milk or dry, ought not to be allowed to fall off in flesh late in fall, or at the commencement of winter. Thin cows are sensitive to cold, and require more food for their winter keep than they do when commencing the season with a good' coat of flesh. It is always less expensive to get stock in condition during warm weather, or before winter sets in ; and it is therefore very poor economy to allow deep milkers to run down thin late in fall, as it often entails a good deal of careful nursing all the winter through, in order to bring the animals safely over to grass. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 127 DRAWING ALL THE MILK FROM THE UDDER. In drying cows of their milk, attention should be given that all the milk be drawn from the udder at any one milking. Some are in the habit of only partially drawing tne milk Irom time to time, when drying otf cows. It is not a good practice, as the milk left in the udder becomes thick and putrid, causing irritation and inflammation, and not unfrequently results in the loss of a teat, or a portion of the bag, the next season. When cows are being dried off, they should be examined every few days, and their udders completely emptied of all accumulated milk ; and with cows supposed to be dry, their teats should be tried at least once a week, all winter, to see if there be any accumulation of milk. I have had serious losses from trusting to hired help in this matter, and taking for granted that it had been properly attended to. There is no safety unless the work is done under your own eye, or an exami- nation made with your own hand. And it may be remarked that in the management of dairy stock, nothing pays better than a frequent oversight of the creatures by the master^ eye. Hands, however trusty, sometimes get careless and indifferent in their care of stock, which can only be corrected by constant oversight on the part of the proprietor. SHELTER. The importance of keeping stock well housed from storms during inclement weather is often under-estimated by dairy farmers. Much more food is required for stock exposed to cold, bleak winds and storms of sleet and snow, than when properly sheltered. A certain amount of food is needed to keep up animal heat, and it is much cheaper to supply this warmth in properly constructed stables than to use extra fuel in the shape of hay and grain, to keep up heat in the open yard. It has been estimated that an animal wintered in the open yard, without any other shelter than that afforded by fences and the sides of buildings, will consume a third more food than if properly housed. And even wdth the additional food, the animal does not come out so well in spring as the sheltered animal on less food. The principle is abund- antly established, and ought to be recognized by every one who has had the care of stock ; and yet, strange as it may seem, a large proportion of the herds are left shivering in the cold from morning till night, under the impres- sion, it would seem, that the stable can only be used economically during night, or as a place in which to give food. Some insist that this exposure is promotive of health, that it imparts vigor and tone to the system, and that attention in housing from cold and storms during the day is a species of pampering, highly injurious to the constitution and well-being of the animal. Unfortunately for those Avho hold these opinions, the record of losses, of accidents, of diseases incident to milch stock, are against the theory, and in favor of those who are careful to shelter their stock from undue exposure. A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF EXERCISE, of sun and air, together with freedom from restraint, is without doubt condu- cive to health, but the conditions must be favorable or such as the stock enjoy. 128 Practical Dairy Husbandry. An animal may be trained to endure cold, exposure and fatigue, and under certain conditions, health may be maintained. But you cannot impose, at the same time, the duties of maternity and the yielding of large quantities of milk, because the waste of the system from these sources is so great as to leave only a small amount of vitality to be employed in another direction. This is particularly the case with milch cows, which, under a system of domestication and breeding, have been educated into a " milky habit." Left to themselves under the most favorable circumstances, in warm weather, they like but little exercise compared with other classes of animals ; and when required to exercise much, always fall off in milk. Warmth, comfort and quietness are particularly essential to these animals, and any system of man- agement opposed to these conditions, must in a measure, fail to be profit- able to the dairyman. DISEASES FOLLOAV EXPOSURE. Cows that are in milk, or that have been milked late, are peculiarly sensitive to cold, and they are frequently injured by being exposed to storms. By getting wet, and becoming chilled, pxilmonary complaints and other diseases are induced, and thus the farmer has a sick animal on his hands which is a source of trouble and anxiety, and not unfrequently a total loss. Many of the troubles that come upon cows at the period of calving, may be traced directly to exposure during the winter ; and therefore on this account alone will it pay the farmer to shelter his stock on the approach of storms, either of wind, or snow, or rain. During those days in winter that are sunny and wai-m, there may be no objection to allowing stock to run at large in the yard a greater portion of the day ; but in extreme cold weather three-quarters of an hour in the morning and the same length of time in the afternoon, to slake their thirst at the trough, will give them all the exercise needed. The remaining portion of the time they will be better in a warm, well-ventilated stable, where they can quietly ruminate, without fear of being hooked and driven about by master cows. Any one who may have closely observed the habits of milch cows kept out in the yard during extreme cold weather, it would seem, could not well come to a different conclusion. The animals often stand about the buildings, pinched up and shivering, the cold exciting to bad temper which they vent upon the underlings, severely punishing them without cause, and many times to the serious loss of the owner. At such times open the door of your stable, and give them choice of entrance, or to remain without ; and if they do not seek warm quai'ters they differ from any of the herds with which I am acquainted. THE LOSSES FROM NEGLECT of, and inattention to stock during winter, are so large, that the subject cannot be too urgently pressed upon the attention of dairymen. If farmers will only take a coinmon-sense view of the question, and seriously count the cost of the neglect to which I have referred, I am convinced they will Practical Dairy Husbandry. 129 agree with me, that an important saving may be made by the proper sheltering of stock during the rigors of winter. CAKDING cows. — SCEATCHING POLES* The practice of carding cows is of great importance in promoting, health, and inci'easing the profits of the dairy. It not only improves the health of stock, but leads to habits of neatness and cleanliness about the stables, that have an important influence in securing good, clean milk, during the spring months, I would furnish cattle with scratching posts in the yard,, and place a pole firmly on posts with one end higher than the other,^ to accommodate animals of different sizes, that they may pass under and scratch themselves as desired. When these are erected, they will soon be found polished from frequent use. THE STOMACHS OF RUMINANTS PREPARING POOD FOE ASSIMILATION. Before discussing questions in regard to feeding stock, it will be well, perhaps, to allude briefly to the manner in which ruminants prepare their food for assimilation. We quote from Dr. J. V. Smith : — " The cow requires large quantities of food ; it remains in her stomach a long time, but the relative amount of nutrition needed is small. A carnivorous animal has only one stomach, and requires food more condensed and nutritious. Generally animals that chew the cud have four stomachs, to fill which requires a great bulk of food, and they must be filled or they will collapse,, and the opposite walls will meet and destroy each other by their involuntary action. Hence, when the food of such animals is too concentrated, health rapidly declines. The slops of distillers do not sufficiently distend the stomach, and the milk secreted from such diluted food, lacking the elements of nutrition, is doubt- less the cause in cities of many diseases of children that partake of it. The first stomach or paunch, may be called the receiving organ; it is very capacious, and is divided into four compartments. The animal takes its food at first with very imperfect mastication, storing it away in the rumen or paunch, and at its leisure, converts the food into nutriment. It makes balls of its food, by chewing it, then, one after another, lets them down into the paunch till this organ may be compared to a basket filled with eggs. The food becomes moistened, and is perpetually revolving through the different compartments of the rumen, and undergoing important preparation for future digestion. The muscular coats of the rumen consist of two layers, running in different directions, and these muscles are the mechanical agents by which the food is kept in motion, and by running in these different directions they are enabled to act upon all the differently-formed cells of this enoi-mous viscus. The animal when at rest, or on lying down, commences the process of using the food. These animals like company, for they are social. A cow generally will not give as much milk when solitary, as when associated with her kind. Digestion now commences with a reversed action. One of the balls comes back into the mouth, where it is chewed over and made into a 9 130 Practical Dairy Husbandrj. smaller ball, when it is discharged into a second stomach by another passage, the entrance to which is under the animal's control. There a fluid is secreted, and mixed with the food so received, and becomes of a yellow color. Here the animal has no further control of the food. Thence the food drops into the third stomach, which is smaller, and here the food, if not completely broken down, is ground into pulp and mixed with a white fluid, when it drops into the fourth stomach in a yellow, creamy stream. In this stomach it becomes arranged in layers, and by the secretion of another and peculiar fluid, is changed into chyme. This form it must of necessity assume before its nutri- tive matter can be separated. The solution being complete, or so much so as it can be rendered, the food passes through the lower orifice of the stomach into the duodenum or first intestine, where its separation into the nutritive or innutritive portions is efiected, and the former begins to be taken up by the lacteals, and carried into the system." IN SUCKING CALVES this fourth stomach is the one that is active, and it is the one which is used for rennet in coagulating milk for cheese making. In the earlier ages of the world, when habits were simple and wants were few, the only cheese used was obtained from this stomach of the animal. But afterward it was found^ that the material of the stomach itself would curdle milk, and hence came the manufacture of cheese. Thus we see the food of these animals must go through the various wonderful processes described before it is fitted to furnish nutriment. BALLS OF HAIR are sometimes found in the first stomach, from one inch to four inches in diameter. In the spring cattle curry each other, to allay itching, by licking, and in so doing they cannot get the hairs off their tongues, and are forced to swallow them, when they naturally take the shape of a ball. The animal tries to expel it, but the structure of the tongue prevents, when it is swallowed again, and is kept going to and fro up and down many times. Of course such a foreign substance will often produce disease, which is likely to have many names and for which medicines totally inefficacious are prescribed. It is obvious that, at the season named, it is very important in the treatment of cattle to curry them with the curry comb, to prevent the formation of these hair-balls. cows IN CLOSE CONFINEMENT. In the winter management of dairy stock it has been urged by some that the animals winter best when kept confined to the stable most of the time. Some dairymen scarcely allow the cows to leave the stable during the whole winter. Each cow has a water box before her which is supplied with fresh running water as desired. I have examined herds and taken the testimony of the advocates of this system, and although cows kept in a well-lighted, well-ventilated and cleanly stable, daily curried and bedded with straw I Practical Dairy Husbandry. 131 appear healthy, still I cannot approve of the system. Such cows may for the time give more milk and lay on more flesh, but at the expense of health and vitality. Health and physical development are indispensable. Locomotion is not only natural but necessary. There is not a respectable medical authority in the country that dare recommend the dispensing with daily exercise in the air for man and beast where health and physical develop- ment are sought after. Weakness and incapacity are induced by confinement. We must not sacrifice indispensable ends to temporary profit and conveni- ence. Temporary profit is often the wanton violation of physiological law. Provide warm sheds, and well ventilated stables, with bedding ; feed well and groom well, but allow stock an opportunity for free exercise, at least an hour or two each day, whenever the weather permits. HOW cows SHOULD GO INTO WINTER QUAKTEES. Now we have said that one essential point in the wintering of dairy stock is to have the animals in good, thrifty condition, when they go into the stable at the commencement of winter. Deep milkers are apt to milk down thin in fall, and when there is a disposition to lose flesh in this way, it is always well to commence feeding ground grain, oat-meal, bran and ship-stuffs ; since it is much easier and less expensive to put on flesh in the fall, when the weather is comparatively warm, than in winter. If the animals go into the stables in good condition, and are properly dried of their milk, they will continue to gain through the winter, on good hay alone. But if they get a daily ration of roots — either cai'rots, tui'nijjs, or mangolds — with a little straw to pick at from time to time as a change, they will come out in spring in good, healthy, serviceable condition. They must be fed and watered with regularity, and I prefer that the feeding be three times a day — morning, noon and night. In Herkimer Co., where we have been engaged in dairying for seventy years, a great many experiments or different methods of management have been tried, but our best dairymen say that when cows are wintered on early cut hay, with an allowance of roots of some kind, and treated in the way I have indicated, the cows almost invariably do well after calving, with no trouble from retention of after-birth or from garget. EAELT AKD LATE CUT GRASS — RELATIVE VALUE FOR MILCH COWS. The opinions of dairymen in regard to the nutritive value of grass cut for hay at different stages of maturity have changed materially during the last few years. Grass now, in the best dairy districts of New York, is cut much earlier than it used to be ; and it is found by experience that cattle thrive in winter upon early cut grass properly cured, and come out in spring in a much better condition as to flesh and health, than when fed upon grass cut when over-ripe. When grass is left to stand till over-ripe there is a large amount of woody fiber, which the animal cannot assimilate. Hence, in order to get sufl[icient nutriment, a large bulk has to be consumed. It has been proved by experiments made by our best Herkimer county farmers, with a 132 Practical Dairy Husbandry. view to determine the relative value of early cut grass, that the early cut grass ia feeding will give as good results when given without any additional food as the late cut grass with a moderate daily ration of meal. Some farmers, therefore, prefer to cut a portion of their grass early in June, before it comes fairly into flower, curing it without allowing it to get wet, and storing it where it can be used specially for spring feeding. In this way some avoid feeding grain in spring, when cows begin to come in milk. I have made frequent examinations of herds carried through to grass without a particle of grain, or indeed any other food except the early cut grass, nicely cured, and the animals on turning to grass were in good, fair condition. I do not approve, however, of wintering milch cows on one kind of food, believing they should have variety, such as roots, straw and coarse fodder, in addition to a full supply of the best hay ; and then, when cows begin to come in milk, before turning to grass, a little ground meal, bran or ship-stuffs should be given daily. I mention these facts in reference to early cut grass in order to show that it is much more nutritious than many farmers suppose. STOCK SHOULD BE WINTERED WELL. To have stock make a good yield of milk during the season, it is important that the animals be wintered well, and not allowed at any time to get poor in flesh, or weak. The cow that comes through the winter weak and debili- tated, and reduced in flesh, will require the larger part of the summer to recuperate. She will yield not only a small quantity of milk during the time she is recuperating, but it will be poor in quality, and hence such an animal can render but meager profits even on the cheapest kind of land ; for her care, and the labor of milking, &c., will nearly if not quite eat up in cost the value of her product. THE VARIATION IN THE QUALITY OP MILK, on account of poor keep, thinness of flesh, and a debilitated condition of the animal, has been very abundantly set forth by the chemists, in their analyses of milk from such animals. In such cases the butter has been found to fall off from five per cent, to less than two per cent., with a considerable reduction also in the casein. The influence of poor keep on the quality of milk, is a question not very well understood or appreciated by the majority of farmers. The man who keeps his herd poorly, and delivers his milk at the factory with those whose herds are well fed and cared for, ought in justice to make a proper allowance for an inferior quality of milk. To come in on an equality with his neighbor's good milk, is in fact to take from his neighbor a certain amount of property without accounting for it. There is no practical method as yet, at the factories, for regulating this abuse, except by excluding such milk from the factory. But there is another question of considerable importance in connection with cutting grass early. The meadows are more endui-ing and yield better returns year after year. In New York we find Practical Dairy Husbandry. 133 one great cause of meadows running out, is allowing the grass to stand until ripe or over-ripe, before cutting. When meadows are thinly seeded, and it is not desirable to break them up, the turf will be greatly improved by cutting the grass early, just as it comes in flower. It is very poor economy to let the grass stand until over-ripe to shed seed, hoping to re-seed in this manner and get a good turf. A much better way will be to cut the grass early, and then as the fall rains approach go over the ground, scattering seed wherever it is needed ; but when the earth freezes deeply, and the roots of the grass are liable to be destroyed by frost, this operation of seeding can be done early in spring. One great trouble in GETTING A GOOD TURF UPON MEADOWS, results from using too little seed and too few varieties. When timothy alone is to be raised, a half bushel of seed to the acre is none too small a quantity to be used. A very successful farmer in Herkimer, who grows large crops of timothy, adopts the following system : — If old land (or land upon which a hoed crop has been grown), it is plowed in the fall. Then in the spring a coat of manure is spread on the surface and worked in with the cultivator, and the grass seed sown with some spring grain. VALUE OF EARLY. CUT GRASS. In regard to the value of early cut grass for dairy stock, the experiments, not only in my own dairy but numerous well authenticated statements from others, leave not the slightest doubt. The most remarkable result, however, on record, was that obtained in the feeding of the Vermont cow. Taking into consideration that the animal received no grain, and was fed nothing but grass and hay, her record is worthy of a place beside the celebrated Oakes cow. The Oakes cow, it will be remembered, produced four hundred and eighty pounds of butter besides suckling her calf for five weeks, and all between the fifth of April and the twenty-fifth of September. She received, however, in addition to her full allowance of grass, a bushel of corn-meal per week, and all her own milk skimmed. The Vermont cow, upon grass and hay alone, produced during the year 1865, five hundi-ed and four pounds of butter, and the following is her record, given by her owner, Mr. A. Scott of Crafts- bury, Vermont : Dec. 30tb, 1864, to Apr. 20tli, 1865, 200 lbs. @ 60 cents per lb $120.00 " 54.00 " 16.00 " 17.00 " 16.50 " 11.00 Apr. " " " Aug. " 180 lbs. @ 30 Aug. " " " Sept. 40 lbs. @ 40 Sept. " " " Oct. 34 lbs. @ 50 Oct. " " " Nov. 30 lbs. @ 55 Nov. " " " Dec. 20 lbs. @ 55 Total for the year, - 504 lbs. $234.50 This cow is described by her owner as of good size, and of native breed, and when purchased, four years before, was considered a very ordinary cow. 134 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The Oakes cow was also of native breed. In the Transactions of the New York State Agricultural Society, we find a notice of several cows remarkable for their large yield of butter during a short period, but it is not stated upon what feed the animals were kept. Thus we have the Nourse cow of Danvers, that produced fourteen pounds of butter per week for sixteen weeks ; the Sanderson cow of Waltham, fourteen pounds weekly for the same length of time ; the Hazelton cow of Haverhill, the Bosset cow of Northampton, and Buxton of Danvers, the first two yielding fourteen pounds, and the last sixteen pounds weekly for twelve weeks. Geo. Kerr, of Ontario Co., N. Y., reports nineteen pounds of butter from a native cow in one week, and sixteen pounds weekly for the two succeeding weeks. T. Comstock of Oneida Co., from a three-fourths native and one-fourth Durham cow, seventeen pounds five ounces in one week, and C. D. Miller of Madison Co., twenty and one-half pounds in one week ; and from the same source we learn that G. A. Mann of Onondaga Co., made sixty-seven and a-half pounds of butter from the milk of one cow, in thirty days. The Vermont Cow came in milk on the 15th of December, and on the 25th Mr. Scott commenced setting the milk. The first nine days she made twenty-three pounds of butter, and in twenty-six days she had filled a tub of fifty-two pounds. In the detailed statement which Mr. S. gives in reference to the feed and management of this cow, we find considerable difierence from the usual practice, and indeed from the commonly received opinion of farmers on this question. He believes as much butter can be made in the barn by having the cow come in in winter and fed upon hay, as in the summer upon grass, and the remarkable results obtained seem to prove it. He does not believe in feeding meal to cows, and has not fed any for the last five years. He remarks : — " If I had a cow as good as one I spoiled with meal a few years ago, I think, with my present treatment, she would make three pounds of butter a day, instead of two and a-half as the cow alluded to above has done." MR. SCOTt's management OF COWS. The management of his stock is as follows : The cows are fed on hay three times a day, no more or less ; are watered morning and evening, and then put back into the stall, and kept there night and day during the winter. The amount of hay fed to this cow did not vary a pound from twenty-five pounds a day ; smaller cows take about twenty pounds. The hay that cattle eat, he says, does them little good until they raise it up and chew it over in the cud ; then it goes to form milk or flesh, as the case may be. If the animals have a comfortable place to lie down in they commence chewing it over as soon as they get their meals eaten, and when twelve o'clock comes they are ready for their meal again, and so on until evening. There should always be regularity in feeding and watering. He describes his barn as double-boarded, outside and in, with double windows, and so ventilated that the temperature may be controlled at pleasure, I Practical Dairy Husbandry. 135 even in the coldest weather. It is thrown open all round or shut up, just as the weather happens to be, and is kept above freezing point. But another important point, from which the highest results named have been reached, is in securing the hay in such a manner that a large percentage of the nutritive matter is retained. Haying is begun about the 8th of June, and finished, if possible, by the 25th. Another crop is cut the last of August, and in some places a third crop in September ; and he well remarks that instead of com- mencing haying about the 4th of July and finishing in August and September, as has been the practice from time immemorial, all the grass ought to be cut and in the barn by July. Here then, after all, is a part of the secret of Mr. Scott's success. It is in making the hay so that it shall be equal in nutritive value, or nearly so, to the fresh grass of pastures. There can scarcely be a doubt but that immense losses are sustained by our best farmers in this matter of harvesting the hay crop. We do not commence harvesting early enough, but wait until much of the nutritive value of the grass has been wasted and used to form woody fiber, under the impression that we are getting more bulk and therefore more available food. Some years ago Mr. Lewis of Herkimei', abandoned the use of meal and grain in spring, believing better results were obtained from early cut grass properly cured. I went out to Mr. Lewis's farm in spring, and made a personal examination of his herd, for the purpose of seeing how far flesh and condition could be maintained in the way suggested, and I found the animals as thrifty as had been represented. The experiment of Mr. Scott is valuable in this : it demonstrates the relative value of early cut and late cut grasses, for no one can doubt the fact that his hay must have contained a more than ordinary amount of nutrition to produce the result — a result, we venture to say, which could not be realized from late cutting. Most farmers are aware that hay as usually cut and stored is insufiicient to keep milch cows in a full flow of milk for any considerable length of time. When no additional food is given they fall oflT rapidly in flesh, and the milk depreciates in quantity and quality, even if the cow has all the hay she can consume. INJURY FROM FEEDING CONCENTRATED FOOD. There is another question raised by the experiment of Mr. Scott, and that is, to what extent milch cows are injured by feeding concentrated food? He asserts that he spoiled a cow by feeding meal. Of course cows are liable to be injured by over-feeding ; but we are not prepared to admit that a judicious use of meal will injure a cow for milk. The feeding of meal may be, and doubtless is, more expensive than grass cut and prepared as he suggests ; and admitting that such hay makes the most milk, it does not prove that meal fed judiciously will spoil the animal, without it be from over-feeding. Cows doubtless are injured and their lives shortened by excessive feeding of meal and grains, but if hay is poor or cut after half of its nutritive elements have passed away, the waste must be made up in some way in feeding, or the animal runs down, and when turned to pasture, is a long while recuperating. 1.36 Practical Dairy Husbandry. CUTTING AND COOKING THE FOOD, i But where considerable quantities of straw and coarse fodder are raised on the farm, it may be of advantage to utilize it by cutting and cooking. In the English dairies, as I have observed, stock is mostly wintered upon cut straw, pulped tuniips, and oil cake. The food is not generally cooked. In using cooked straw, a certain proportion of meal, bran, or ship stuffs is added to make up a nutritive equivalent equal to good meadow hay, and the experi- menters pretty generally agree that the gain by cutting and cooking is about one-third ; that is, that the expense of food is one-third less than when hay alone is used in the usual way. I have referred to this system in the account 1 gave of the Tbuesdale barn. A few years ago Hon. Wm. I. Skinnek of Little Falls, N. Y., set up machinery and experimented during one winter, to satisfy himself in regard to the system. He divided his stock, feeding forty-four head upon straw and shippings, and twenty-six head upon hay. The forty-four head were consuming four hundred and forty pounds of oat straw and three hundred and fifty-two pounds of shippings per day, and two men were employed to cut and steam the food and take care of the stock. The whole expense was as follows : 440 lbs. straw, @ $10 pel- ton $2 20 352 lbs. shippings, @ 23^c., niurket price 7 92 2 men, at 9 shillings per day each 2 25 Wood, used for cooking per day. 39 $12 76 or twenty-nine "Cents for each head per day. Each cow received ten pounds straw and eight pounds shipping per day. The twenty-six cows consumed six hundred and fifty pounds of hay per day, and the expense for this lot was as follows : 650 lbs. hay, @ $25 per tou $8 123^ Labor, 1 man, 9 shillings per day >. 1 123^ $9 25 or thirty-five cents per day for each cow, showing a balance in favor of straw and shippings of six cents per day for each head. Cut straw averages about five pounds to the bushel, and cut hay eight pounds. The eight pounds of shippings make a little over ten quarts. I examined this stock several times during the winter, and to all appearance those fed on the cooked food were plump and doing better than the lot on hay. The several descriptions of feed used are put at the market price that winter. MR. E. w. Stewart's experiments. Mr. E. W. Stewart of Erie Co., iN". Y., who has experimented largely in cooking food for cattle, says : — " Steaming renders moldy hay, straw and corn-stalks sweet and palatable, thus restoring their value ; renders peas and Practical Dairy Husbandry. 137 beans agreeable food for horses as well as other stock, and thus enables the feeder to combine more nitrogenous food in the diet of his animals. Half hay and half straw, mixed and steamed, more than equals hay unsteamed. When cows are kept in milk through the winter, cooking their food will greatly increase the yield of milk." He estimates the saving in food for each cow in milk at $8.00 for the season. Again he says, that a mixture of oil and pea meal and bran makes an excellent food to produce milk, and keep up the condition of the cow ; one and a-half pounds of oil and pea meal and three pounds of bran mixed with ten pounds of hay steamed per day for each cow weighing eight hundred pounds, will generally be sufficient. This, he says, has been determined by his experiments, long and faithfully tried. And, he adds, this may be thought a small quantity from which a cow of that size, at her best season, could produce four gallons of milk and keep up her condition ; but it must be remembered that four gallons of milk contain only about four pounds dry matter, which will leave a supply for the thrift of the cow. And when this sixteen pounds of hay, oil, and pea meal and bran, are thoroughly cooked together the nutriment is all extracted by the animal. In experi- menting to determine what amount of bran or meal upon straw would make it equal to hay, he found two quarts bran and one quart corn meal on one bushel of oat, wheat or barley straw rendered it equal to the best of hay. When considerable quantities of coarse fodder are raised on the farm, doubt- less cutting and steaming could be practiced with considerable advantage, but it is a question whether it will pay to introdiice machinery for cooking early cut hay, and the general impression of our dairymen is, that for this kind of food, considering the extra labor and expense in cooking, there would be no advantage. cows CALVING. The practice is now quite common in New York to allow cows to drop their calves while confined in the stanchion. The practice is not to be recom- mended. It is better as this critical time approaches, to sepax'ate the cow from the herd, placing her in a roomy stable, where she may have perfect freedom, and where she may be at liberty to perform the necessary office of cleansing the young calf and giving it suck. In most cases parturition will be natural and easy, and, as Mr. Flint remarks, " the less a cow is disturbed or meddled with the better." Soon after calving a bran mashj made with tepid water, should be given to the cow, which operates favorably on the expulsion of the afterbirth. SPBING AND SUMMER FEED FOR MILCH COWS. There is a great difference of opinion among dairymen in reference to the kinds of grain best adapted to milch cows in spring. Dairymen generally suit their own convenience in this matter, without much regard to the opinion of others. If they have raised and have on hand a surplus of corn, or barley, or oats, they are very apt to feed one or the other as best suits their conven- ience at the time ; and if grain is to be purchased, the matter of prices has 138 Practical Dairy Husbandry. more of a controlling influence than what is best adapted to the animal economy. So widely do people differ on this question that many prefer to feed in spring nothing but hay, if of good quality, claiming that the cows will be healthier when turned to grass, and that the net profits from the dairy will be greater than where grain is used in spring feeding. In other words, that the value of the grain fed in spring more than balances receipts from the extra quantity of cream and butter produced ; and hence grain feeding in spring must be very poor economy. Another class of dairymen, who claim to have looked pretty closely to the profits to be realized from milch cows, and to have compared results one year with another, say that nothing is gained by having cows " come in milk " as early as February or March. They prefer the months of April and May, as not only more agreeable, but actually resulting in greater profits. They argue that cows " coming in milk " early in the season, are more exposed to cold and storms which must injure the health and weaken the constitution of the animal ; that it sooner wears out the cow, and yields no more net profit than when a later date is had for commencing the business of dairying. Why, they say, should one do extra work in milking and nursing stock through the bad weather of February and March, when the result from stock calving thus early, not only is no pecuniary gain, but brings positive injury to the herd ? Others insist that greater profits are realized when cheese and butter making is commenced early in the season. But if we assume that cows are to come in milk as early as March, then some kind of food other than hay — at least hay as usually harvested — seems to be imperatively demanded, in order to keep stock in decent condition as to health and strength, until it comes to grass. THE SECKBTION' OF MILK A HABIT. Now, the secretion of milk is in some respects a matter of habit or educa- tion, and should be promoted and kept up from its first flow. This cannot be accomplished on late cut hay alone, since the cow cannot be induced to consume the quantity necessary for her maintenance and a full yield of milk of good quality. This will be made evident by comparing the constituents of milk and those of ordinary meadow hay. Suppose the cow is yielding but eight quarts or twenty pounds of milk per day. This will contain a little over two and a-half pounds of dry material, as follows : lbs. Of casein 1000 Of butter 0.625 Of sugar 0.875 Of phosphate of lime 0.045 Other mineral ingredients 0.055 Total.... 3.600 Twenty pounds of ordinary hay contain of albuminous matter, fibrine and casein, &c., say about 1.85 ; oil, butter, &c., say 5.36. So it will be seen that Practical Dairy Husbandry, 139 thig quantity of hay (considering that a part of the nutritive matter is not assimilated, and passes off in the excrement), will be mostly needed for the manufacture of the milk alone, while a like quantity and more must be used for her maintenance. Experience as well as science amply demonstrates the fact that late cut hay when used as an exclusive food for milch cows is insufficient to produce milk rich in quality and large in quantity. Mr. J. B. La WES of Rothamsted, England, in a recent paper on the EXPENDITUKE OF FOOD BY EESPIEATION, says: — "If there is one thing which is more firmly established by scientific inquiry tljan another, it is that actual waste or expenditure of substance is going on during the whole period of our existence, and that unless this waste be compensated by food, death must quickly ensue. " The nearest approach to the continuance of life without food is in the case of those animals which pass through a period of hybernation. A dor- mouse for instance, sleeps through a great part of the winter; the little animal becomes cold to the touch, shows no sign of respiration, and is to all appearance dead. Nevertheless, careful experiments have proved that slow respiration is going on all the time, accompanied with gradual loss of substance ; and if the cold weather be sufficiently prolonged, or the animal be subjected by artificial means to a continuance of low temperature, death will take place ; if not from other causes, at any rate as soon as there ceases to be a supply of accumulated fat, or other material within the body, avail- able for the purposes of respiration. " Indeed, the resources of the body itself, unreplenished by food, can supply the necessary material for Avaste for only a limited period. The minimum amount of food required to maintain existence will vary for a given live weight according to the description of the animal, the description of the food, the conditions of life and individual peculiarities. But, to say nothing of other losses, as part of the substance of the body passes off into the atmosphere with every respiration, it is absolutely certain that death cannot be far off whenever the supply of food is stopped. " The fact of a constant expenditure of food by respiration has a very important bearing on the economy of the farm. Every animal that is kept, whether for labor or for the production of meat, requires a given amount of food for the mere maintenance of life. If it receive more than this, the remainder may serve to enable the working animal to perform his labor or the meat-making animal to increase in substance and in weight, and conse- quently in value. " It may be mentioned, in passing, that direct experiments have proved that the expenditure by respiration is very much greater within a given time while an animal is awake than while it is asleep ; and again, very much greater in exercise than when at rest. " Confining attention to the case of the animals fed for the butcher, it will 140 Practical Dairy Husbandry. be obvious that the economy of the feeding process will be the greater the less the amount of food expended by respiration in the production of a given amount of increase ; and it is equally obvious that one ready and efficient means of lessening the j)roportiou of the waste or expenditure to the increase produced, is to lessen, as far possible, the time taken to produce it ; in other words, to fatten as quickly as possible. " An example taken from the ordinary practice of the farm clearly illus- trates the point, and shows the great importance of bearing the facts in mind. From the results of numerous experiments made at Rothamsted, it may be assumed that on the average a pig weighing one hundred pounds will, if supplied with as much barley meal as he will eat, consume five hundred pounds of it, and double his weight — that is, increase from one hundred pounds to two hundred pounds live weight, in sixteen or seventeen weeks. The following table shows the amount of dry or solid constituents in the five hundred pounds of barley meal, and how they will be disposed of in the case supposed : 500 POUNDS OP BARLEY MEAL PRODITCE 100 POUNDS INCREASE AND SUPPLY. Nitrogenous substance, Non-nitrogenous substance, Mineral matter, Total dry substance. In Food. Lbs. 52 357 11 420 In 100 Inckease. In Man- ure. Lbs. 7.0 66.0 0.8 73.8 Lbs. I 59.8 10.2 70.0 In Kespi- EATION, Lbs. 276.2 276.3 " From the figures in the table we learn that the four hundred and twenty pounds of dry or solid substance which the five hundred pounds of barley meal contain, about seventy-four are stored up in the one hundred pounds of increase in live weight, about seventy are recovered in the manure, and two hundred and seventy-six, or nearly two-thirds of the whole, are given off" into the atmosphere by respiration and perspiration — that is to say, are expended in the mere sustenance of the living meat and manure-making machine, during the sixteen or seventeen weeks required to produce the one hundred pounds of increase. " But now let us suppose that instead of allowing the pig to have so much barley meal as he will eat, we make the five hundred pounds of barley meal last many more weeks. The result would be that the animal would appro- priate a correspondingly larger proportion of the food for the purposes of respiration and perspiration, and a correspondingly less proportion in the production of increase. In other words, if the five hundred pounds of barley meal be distributed over a longer period of time, it will give less increase in live weight, and a larger proportion of it will be employed in the mere main- tenance of the life of the animal. Indeed, if the period of consumption of five hundred pounds of meal be sufiiciently extended, the result will be that Practical Dairy Husbandbt. 141 no increase whatever will be produced, and that the whole of the food, excepting the portion obtained as manure, will be expended in the mere maintenance of the life of the animal. The conclusion is obvious, that provided the fattening animal can assimilate the food, a given amount of increase will be obtained with a smaller expenditure of constituents by respiration, the shorter the time taken to produce it. In fact, by early maturity and the r£,pid fattening of stock, a vast saving of food is effected. It is true that the flavor and quality of the meat of the one-year old sheep or the two or three-year old bullock, are not as good as that of the three or four-year old sheep, or the four or five-year old ox. But it is obvious that the mutton and beef of the older animals can only be produced with a much greater expenditure of food, and generally at an increased money cost, which must put them beyond the reach of a great majority of consumers." HORSF all's experiments. Some of the most valuable experiments for feeding milch cows are those made by Mr. Horsfall of England. By affording a full supply of the elements of food adapted to the maintenance and produce of the animal, he was enabled to obtain as much milk, and that which was as rich in butter during winter as in summer. He used, to some extent, cabbages, mangolds, shorts, and other substances rich in the constituents of cheese and butter. " My food for milch cows," he says, " after having undergone various modifica- tions, has for two seasons consisted of rape cake, five pounds, and bran, two pounds for each cow, mixed into a sufiicient quantity of bean straw, oat straw, and shells of oats, in equal proportions, to supply them three times a day with as much as they will eat. The whole of the materials are moistened and blended together, and after being well steamed, are given to the animal in a warm state. The attendant is allowed one pound to one and a-half pounds per cow, according to circumstances, of bean meal, which he is charged to give to each cow in proportion to the yield of milk, those in full milk getting two pounds each per day, others but little. It is dry and mixed with the steamed food, on its being dealt out separately. When this is eaten up, green food is given, consisting of cabbages from October to December, kohl-rabi till February, and mangolds till grass time," His cows under this treatment usually yield from twelve to sixteen quarts of milk (wine measure) per day, for about eight months after calving, when they fall off in milk, but gain flesh up to the time of calving. From these experiments, conducted in a careful manner, it would seem that food rich in albuminous matter produced the best results. Bean meal contains twenty-eight per cent, of this substance. Beans are not used in this country as food for stock, but if we select other grains, rich in cheesy matter, the principle may be carried out, and satisfactory results obtained. The three grains containing albuminous or flesh-forming matter in largest proportion next to beans (if peas aro excepted), ai*e rye, oats and barley, each 142 Practical Dairy Husbandry. containing from ten to fourteen and a-half per cent. ; these, when ground into meal and mixed in equal quantities, taking their usual market value into con- sideration, are perhaps the best that can be selected. My own experience in the use of these grains as a spring food for milch cows corresponds with that of others as giving most satisfactory results. I have used oats and peas ground into meal together, and could wish for no better feed, but the cost was more, which was not met by increased production of milk. Bai'ley and oats ground and mixed together have also been used with good results. Corn-meal I deem objectionable, on account of its heating nature. Its influence at times is very deleterious, having been known to lessen the quantity and injure the quality of milk, and in some instances dry up the cows. Bran is a very valuable feed for milch cows ; it is rich in phosphates and nitrogenous or flesh-forming material, and when mingled with oat meal, gives the very best results. FEEDING GRAIISr IN SUMMER. On the question of feeding cows grain through the summer, the general opinion among dairymen is, that it does not pay so long as the herds have an abundance of good grass. When shorts and bran can be obtained at cheap rates, and feed is beginning to fail, they may doubtless be employed with profit. Mingled with the hay and fed to cows, the milk gives a larger per- centage of cream, while the quantity of milk also is increased. The most natural, and of course the healthiest food for milch cows in summer is the green grass of our pastures. When cows are giving an extra quantity of milk, and in consequence are milking down thin and poor, it will be advisable to use concentrated food. The principle to be understood is that milk of good quality and large quantity depends upon food, and that the condition and strength of the animal must at all times be kept up. If allowed to run down and become poor and weak, we are undermining the constitution of the cow, and by inattention and neglect defeating the ends by which our best interests are to be promoted. TURNING TO GRASS. When cows are first turned to grass in spring, if feed is abundant, they should not be allowed in the pasture but a few hours each day, for several days — the change of food should be gradual. Serious troubles have some- times resulted from inattention to this point, especially when turning cows into luxuriant afterfeed in autumn. SALTING cows. Another important matter in the management of dairy stock is to have it properly provided with salt. The best way to salt dairy cows is to have the salt in some place conveniently located for stock, Avhere daily access may be had to it, and the animals allowed to take whatever their appetites crave. It may be placed in boxes arranged in the feed alley of the stables, or in troughs in the shed, or open yard. Where cows have free access to salt, they soon Practical Dairy Husbandry. 143 regulate their appetite to the daily use of small quantities of it, taking no more than is required to promote health. Animals require more or less salt, according to the character of their food, and the practice of salting at certain intervals is often injurious, since they are liable to ovex'feed of it, causing excessive scouring and derangement of health. This is particularly the case when salt is thrown out to stock indiscriminately in the fields at intervals of a week or more. In such cases the master cows not unfrequently gorge themselves, preventing the weaker animals from getting a due supply, and thus one part of the herd is injured by overfeeding, and the other part by not obtaining what is needed. When the animals have access to salt, nature dictates as to its use, and hence the best results, both as to health and yield of milk, follow. Salt is very necessary for milch cows. Without it the milk becomes scanty and imperfect. It is an important element in the blood, and furnishes the soda necessary to hold the cheesy part of the milk in solution. Haidlin found in one thousand -pounds of milk, analyzed by him, nearly half a pound of free soda, and over a third of a pound of chloride of sodium. There was also one and three-quarter pounds of chloride of potassium. There are various pui-poses in the animal economy that require salt, and cows in milk should at all times have free access to it. Perhaps the greatest necessity for its use is in spring, when cows are first turned to pasture. The food then is rather deficient in saline matter, and does not furnish sufl[icient for a large quantity of milk. As grass becomes more mature the mineral elements are more abundant, and there is less desire on the part of animals for salt. It is on this account and because cows have been dried of their milk, that in winter much less salt is required in the dairy than in summer. From experi- ments that have been made it has been found that in May and June, when milch cows have been deprived of salt for several days, the milk shrunk from one to two per cent, in quantity, and from two to four per cent, in quality. Later in the season the experiments showed less difference. Thus it will be seen that dairy stock, to produce the best results, should have a daily supply of salt, and that the quantity is much better regulated by the animal than it can be by the stock-keeper who doles it out at intervals. WATER FOR COWS. I have alluded to the importance of providing milch cows with good water, and something more may be said on this point, because it is one of the secrets of success, which the great majority of dairymen to-day do not fully comprehend. The importance of providing an abundance of water for cows in milk cannot be over-estimated. Every practical dairyman must have observed how rapidly cows shrink of their milk in hot, dry weather, when water is scarce and the animals do not get their usual supply. But although in such cases the cause of milk falling ofi" is traced to its true source, many forget to take a hint from such observation in their management of milch stock during the summer and fall. Cows of course will live where the daily 144 Practical Dairy Husbandry. I supply of water is limited, and by yielding a less quantity of milk, they adapt themselves to the circumstances under which they are placed. And if water is not abundant or is situated in out of the way places, where it is not easy of access, the animals soon educate themselves to get along with a much less quantity than they would were it placed befoi-e them in abundance. Up to a certain point, the animal will accommodate herself without complaint to the conditions, and it often happens that because cows show no very marked uneasiness nor falling off in flesh, it is supposed they get all the water which they require, when in point of fact they are taking only a limited supply. Herds thus situated do not yield large returns. The fault is not in the cows, but in their management. ISTow, milch cows should rather be induced to take all the water they will, and at no time should they be allowed to suffer from thirst. A cow that gives a large quantity of milk, must of necessity require more water, other things being equal, than the cow that gives only a small quantity of milk, for we must remember that of the constituents of milk eighty-seven parts or thereabout are water. To what extent the quantity of milk can be increased and at the same time a good quality be secured, by inducing the animal to take an abundant quantity of liquid, is still a question undetermined, but that milk of good quality can in this manner be increased and without injury to the animal, there is not the slightest doubt. Upon this point we have some interesting experiments by M. Dancel, as communi- cated to the French Academy of Sciences. He found that by inciting cows to drink large quantities of water, the quantity of milk yielded by them can be increased several quarts per day without materially injuring its quality. The amount of milk obtained, he says, is approximately proportional to the quantity of water drank. Cows which, when stall fed with dry fodder, gave only from nine to twelve quarts of milk per day, at once produced from twelve to fourteen quarts daily, when their food was moistened by mixing with it from eighteen to twenty-three quarts of water per day. Besides this water taken with the food, the animals were allowed to drink at the same intervals as before, and their thirst was excited by adding to their fodder a small quantity of salt. The milk produced under the water regimen, after having been carefully analyzed and examined as to its chemical and physical properties, was adjudged to be of good quality, and excellent butter was obtained from it. The precise proportion of water which can thus be given to cows with advantage, he says, is a point not readily determinable, since the appetite for drink differs very considerably in different animals. But by observing the degree of the appetite for drink in a number of cows, by taking note of the quantity of water habitually consumed by each of the animals in the course of twenty-four hours, and contrasting this quantity with that of the milk produced, M. Dancel asserts that any one can see that the yield of milk is directly proportionate to the quantity of water absorbed. He asserts, more-^ over, that a cow that does not habitually drink so much as twenty-seven Practical Dairy Husbandry. 145 quarts of water per day — and he has met with such — is actually and necessa- rily a poor milker. She will give only from five and a-half to seven quarts per day. But all the cows he has seen which drank as much as fifty quarts of water daily, were excellent milkers, yielding from nineteen to twenty-three quarts of milk. In his opinion the quantity of drink consumed by a cow is a valuable test of her worth as a milk producer. Now, whether the inferences drawn by Dancbl from his experiments be strictly true in any particular or applicable in all cases, need not be discussed for the present, but they illustrate in some degree at least, facts familiar to practical men. The most common observer must have taken note that in the human family the mother suckling her infant requires and consumes more liquids than she did before or after her period of nursing. And the practical dairyman must have been dull indeed if he has not observed the difference in the appetite of cows for water before and after they have begun to give milk. The lesson which practical dairymen should learn from these facts is, that cows to yield the best returns must be provided with an abundance of pure water, so located that it is easy of access at all times. In fine, that induce- ments held out in this way for cows to drink, are a paying investment to dairymen. But while milch cows can be made to yield larger returns by a judicious use of liquids, we cannot recommend pushing the point to that excess which may affect the health of stock or reduce the quality of milk to a low standard, FALL FEEDING. As pastures begin to fail the latter part of July, soiling in part either with green corn fodder, lucerne, millet, oats, or clover must be resorted to, for keeping up a flow of milk, until cows go to the aftermath. It is essential that the flow of milk be kept up, for if cows are allowed to fall off in milk at this season of the year, it will be impossible to bring them back again by fall feeding. I need not discuss this point further, and I have only a word more in relation to the fall treatment of stock, since it is here that many dairymen make very grave mistakes. As the season advances occasional frosts begin to appear, and although grass may be abundant it is flashy and the frosts injure materially its nutritive value. At this season more than any other cows are apt to milk down poor, and often before the dairyman is fully aware of the fact. If it is desirable to keep up a flow of milk, a little bran or ground grain can be used with profit ; even a few nubbins of corn fed daily will prove serviceable in keeping uj) the strength and condition of the animal. But this is not all ; the cold storms and frosty nights are injurious unless the animals are sheltered. Cows in milk, as I have remarked, are susceptible to cold, and if not protected from the inclement weather fall off rapidly in flesh and milk ; even in summer a cold rain storm lessens the quantity of milk, as every dairyman must have observed ; but towards the approach of winter, after yielding milk for several months, the general tone of the system is reduced, and the animal is unable 10 146 Practical Dairy Husbandry. to withstand sudden changes without being injuriously affected. Stock that is reduced in flesh at the commencement of winter, will require at least a quarter more food to bring it through to grass than it would did it start in high condition. This fact is lost sight of by many who suffer their cattle to run down in the fall, milking them late, and allowing them to be exposed to all kinds of weather. In cold, stormy nights during the fall cows will do better in the stable, even with no feed, than to be left out exposed to the inclemencies of the weather. What little food they pick up at such times is not of much account ; they will seek out some sjDot that affords a partial protection from the storm and cold, huddle together, and stand there shiver- ing and discontented till morning. It is at such times that more or less injury is done to the underlings of the herd from being hooked and driven about by master cows. Perhaps at no season of the year does stock require more care and attention than late in the fall, and at no season is it so generally neg- lected. Many never think of housing an animal at this season so long as the ground remains uncovered with snow, and many fancy they are saving fodder by withholding food so long as there are patches here and there of frozen aftermath, that are not eaten down. Such persons are often found complain- ing that their hay rapidly wastes away after feeding has commenced, and is wanting in nutrition ; that their stock comes out thin in spring, and the yield of milk during the summer is less than it should be. They have no definite idea where the trouble lies ; it is either in the hay or in the season, or in the cows, and they mourn over their bad luck, when in fact the real cause of all the trouble arose from neglect and want of care and attention in the fall treatment of stock. Cows that are expected to yield largely must have careful treatment and liberal feed — they must be protected from the inclement weather in roomy, well- ventilated stables. The importance of comfortable, well-lighted and well- ventil- ated stables for milch cows is imperfectly understood, although much has been written on the subject. It should be remembered that a lai-ge share of the food eaten is used in furnishing warmth to the animal, and if we can supply warmth by artificial means, it will be equivalent to a certain percentage of food. Good shelter, therefore, serves in part for food. It has been well remarked that " beside the actual loss of food from the increased amount required under exposure to cold, there is a further loss in milk from the feeling of discomfort. The secretions are always disturbed by influences that cause pain or uneasiness, and every shiver of a half-frozen cow will make itself visible in the milk pail." It will often therefore, be a matter of economy for dairymen to commence feeding cabbages, the tops of roots, or small quantities of grain, just as soon as the grasses of the pasture have been touched with frosts. A daily allowance of bran, shorts, or ground feed of barley and oats, or oats and corn, in the proportion of two parts oats to one of corn, will be of the greatest service in keeping up a flow of milk and at the same time keeping the animal in health and condition. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 147 There are many more topics in regard to the management of stock which I could have wished to discuss, but enough perhaps has been said to give an outline of the more important requisites in this branch of dairy management. KAISIN'G CALVES. In raising calves they should always have a good start, and for this pur- pose I know of nothing equal to milk as it is drawn from the cow. Some people recommend separating the calf from the cow a day or two after it is dropped. I think it should be allowed to run with the cow and have all the milk it can take for at least four or five days. Ordinarily the cows milk will not be in a proper condition for human food under four or five days from the time of dropping her calf, though many dairymen who are anxious to make the most out of the milk insist that it is good enough for cheese-making at the fourth milking. After the calf is taken from the cow it should be generously fed with new milk until it is two weeks old at least. This should be the earliest period at which the commencement of any substitute for new milk ought to be given. I should prefer to feed new milk for some time longer, but still very good calves may be raised by compounding a food for them a little less expensive than new milk. If skim milk can now be afforded, the calves will thrive on liberal feeding, but the cheese dairymen often feel that even skim milk is too expensive to be long continued, and are not satisfied till the diet of the calf is reduced to whey. Now, if whey and oil meal be properly prepared, it can be made to sei've as a very good substitute for milk. The whey should be dipped off" when sweet from the vat, then bring it to the boiling point and turn it upon the oil meal. Let the mixture stand till night, and then feed. In the morning, whey sweet from the vat may be fed. At the commencement a little less than a pint of oil meal per day will be sufficient for four calves. This may be gradually increased till each calf has a daily ration of half a pint. At first it is better not to feed calves all the whey they Avill drink at a time. A large feed of whey cloys the appetite and deranges the health. A half pail of whey at first is enough for a feed, which may be increased to three-fourths of a pail and a pail, as the calf increases in age. Two meals a day, if the calf runs in a good pasture, is sufficient. Calves fed in this way ought not to be weaned until they can get a good bite of afterfeed from the early cut meadows. It is important to keep them in a growing, thrifty condition, with no check. When weaned earlier, their growth is often checked by reason of short, dry or innutritions feed in pastures. When whey cannot be had, the following substitute for milk in feeding calves is recommended by the Irish Farmers' Gazette: — "Take three quarts of linseed meal and four quarts of bean meal, and mix with thirty quarts of boiling water, when it is left to digest for twenty-four hours, and it is then poured into a boiler on the fire, having thirty-one quarts of boiling water. It is here boiled for half an hour, being 148 Practical Dairy Husbandry. stirred with a perforated paddle to prevent lumps and produce perfect incor- poration. It is then set aside to cool, and is given blood warm. When first used it is mixed with milk in small quantity. The milk is gradually decreased till they get the mucilage only. Indian meal may be given in place of bean meal, and perhaps pea meal would serve the same purpose as bean meal, the latter not being common in this country. I have used buckwheat meal cooked into a porridge and added to whey, for calves, with good results, and I have no doubt that buckwheat meal could be substituted for bean meal in the mixture, and make a good feed. It is desirable and important to feed the calf well and hasten the maturity of the young animal so that it will come in milk at two years old. Many complain that they are unable to have their heifers in milk until three years of age. Heifers coming in milk at two years of age invariably make better milkers than those coming in milk a year later, to say nothing of the profit of one season's milk. It will be seen, then, that a little extra care and feed pays well, in order to an early maturity of the animal." Mr. Brown of Herkimer Co. prefers March calves in selecting stock to raise. The calves are fed new milk for two weeks, at the rate of eight quarts per day each. After this, commence adding whey to the milk, and feed in this way up to the twentieth of April. By this time, if there is a suflicient quantity of whey made daily, no milk is given, but oil meal is made to take the place of milk, the quantity for each calf being at the rate of one-half pint of dry meal per day. Boiling water is turned upon the meal, which increases its bulk, in a few minutes, to three times the quantity of dry meal. It is then mixed with the scalding whey, and when sufiicienlly cool given to the calves. About three-fourths of a pail of whey to each at a mess, and two feeds per day are deemed sufiicient. The calves are turned out to grass as soon as a good bite can be had, but the M^hey and oil meal are allowed daily until the time for turning into good fresh after feed, when its use is discontinued and the calves weaned. In this way good thrifty calves are raised, which winter well, and to all appearance are as healthy and in as good growing condition as though they had been raised on milk. The calves are always provided with a good shelter where they can go at will, out of storms. When oil meal cannot be had, oat meal is substituted, at the rate of two-thirds of a pint for each per day. The whey should be scalded, as in this condition it is better adapted to the anirual, and has a tendency to prevent scouring. RAISING CALVES ON THE SOILING PRINCIPLE. Mr. G. D. Curtis of Wisconsin, contributes the following to the Boston Cultivator : — " About the first of April last, I began raising ten heifer calves for the dairy — taught them to drink at three or four days old, and fed them the milk of five cows, two hundred weight corn meal, and what hay they would eat, till May 15th. Milk and meal were then discontinued, and for the next two months they had about ten quarts sweet whey per head a day, and Practical Dairy Husbandry. 149 what clover and orchard grass they would eat, fed three times a day, of which they consumed half an acre. The next sixty-three days they were fed the sowed corn that grew on one-half an acre, and the same allowance of whey as at first. About the twentieth of September they were turned into wheat- stubble ground, seeded to grass last spring. When six months old the heaviest one weighed four hundred and thirty pounds," live weight, and the lot averaged four hundred pounds per head. The expense of cutting and feeding the grass and cornstalks was about the same as harvesting and thresh- ing an acre of wheat. The milk fed, if made into cheese, $55.00 Two hundred weight corn meal at 16s, 4.00 Hay, estimated, 1.00 One acre land to wheat would have brought, 30.00 Value of whey, say 10.00 Eight tons of hay to winter them, 40.00 Total one year, $140.00 Equal to about fourteen dollars per head for yearlings, — about double the cost of ' peace prices.' " I have been engaged in dairying and stock-raising for the past twenty years, and have tried nearly all the different ways of feeding calves, and consider the experiment of the past season much the best. It produces very superior animals, and is no more expensive than the other plans." CALF SKINS. When calves are to be slaughtered for veal, or killed at a very early age, as is common in some dairy sections (in the latter case the hide and rennet only being saved), some attention should be given to stripping off the hide properly, and preparing it for market. Calves that are to be "deaconed" should be allowed to live at least four or five days, and when killed the throat should not be cut crossways, for it can be bled just as well without. The skin should then be removed by slitting the hide from the middle of the under jaw to the root of the tail, and down the inside of the forelegs from between the dew-claws to the slit already made, and down the outside of the hind legs over the gambrel joint, and then direct to a point in the slit first named, midway between the teats and the roots of the tail. It is the safest way to draw the skin off with a windlass or a horse, but when this is inconvenient great care should be taken not to cut or hack the skin, as a cut part way through the skin is quite as bad as a hole. Instead of a knife for removing the skin, a bone or hard wood instrument shaped like a knife should be used, as it can be done almost if not quite as rapidly and with no danger to the skins. If the skin be a veal it should now be weighed and the weight marked down, as veal skins are purchased by the pound. But whether a " deacon " or a " veal " it should be stretched out on the floor or some level place, and about two pounds of salt applied, taking care that 150 Practical Dairy Husbandry. every spot is touched. The better way is, after sprinkling the skin as evenly as possible, to take an old brush or the hand and rub the salt thoroughly in. After lying for a day or two, if in the way, it should be hung up and allowed to dry under cover, but not exposed to the sun. If the skins are on hand after the first of June, they should be fx'equently whipped, to prevent the working of moths. The taking off and care of skins should not be left to young and careless boys, but should receive the personal attention of the farmer, or some trusty person. For skins taken off in the above manner and free from cuts, the tanner can afford to pay a price considerably above the market for ordinary skins as they run. Damaged, " slunk and dead skins," have a value, but should be sold as such for what they are worth. HOVEN IN CATTLE. Among the many diseases of dairy stock, hoven^ or hove, as it is usually termed, is of frequent occurrence. It is induced by a sudden change of diet, as when animals in spring are turned from hay upon luxuriant pasturage, or later in the season, by changing from the pasture to a full growth of after- feed in meadows. Cows, when thus turned into fresh herbage, devour it greedily, which produces over-distension of the rumen, followed quickly by hove. A similar derangement of the digestive functions sometimes happens, it is said, from feeding turnips, though the more frequent occurrence of this disease coming under our observation, has been from a change of diet, and where the animals have been allowed to gorge themselves upon luxuriant grass. The food in such cases is imperfectly matured, the stomach becomes loaded, the process of rumination is prevented, decomposition takes place, gas is generated, and the animal becomes swollen with confined air that dis- tends the paunch and intestines. Great care should be exercised in the management of stock at the partic- ular seasons referred to, since with proper precautions, the malady may often be avoided. It is always best that the change of food should be brought about by degrees, allowing the cows at first to take only a part of a meal, and con- tinuing in this course for a few days until they have become somewhat accustomed to the fresh grass. In spring, after having been restricted during our long winters to dry food, a sudden change to a full supply of succulent food will be apt to derange health, even if the animals by chance escape an attack of hove. It will be well, too, on first turning to grass, that it be done at such times as when the weather is dry and the herbage is not covered with dew ; and this rule should be particularly observed on first turning stock into luxuriant aftermath. There is scarcely a dairyman of any considerable experience but has had cases of hove more or less severe among his cows — and the loss of valuable animals on account of the malady is of frequent occurrence. Indeed hove is so sudden in its attack and the disease progresses so rapidly, that unless speedy relief is given the animal dies. The fermentation which the food Practical Dairy Husbandry. 151 undergoes is facilitated by the heat and moisture to which it is exposed while in the rumen. The gaseous compounds produced by the fermenting process vary according to its duration ; at first carbonic acid gas is evolved, but in a short time this product gives place to carbureted hydrogen gas. Various medicines have from time to time been recommended, but scarcely any, with the exception of chloride of lime, is of much avail. When the attack is not severe the animal often recovers without any assistance. Chloride of lime is frequently found effectual in bad cases, administered in a small quantity of water, the dose of chlorinated lime being from three to four drachms. Used in time it effectually neutralizes the carbureted hydrogen gas. In its action the chlorine quits the lime and unites with the hydrogen and forms a substance — muriatic acid — with which the new uncombined lime unites, and the result is a harmless substance — muriate of lime. In severe cases there should be no delay in adopting the necessary treat- ment, or the animal may be lost, for death in this disease is caused by suffocation. Immediate relief is given by puncturing the rumen, a quite simple operation when it is under- stood, and one which should always be resorted to in bad cases. As the disease is of such a character that no time is to be lost (for if the animal is Fio. 1. to be saved, prompt action is re- quired), every farmer should understand the nature of the operation and be able to perform it. By observing the following diagrams but little difficulty need be had in operating successfully. It is important to bear in mind that the operation should always be per- formed on the left side of the animal, in consequence of the inclination of the rumen to that part of the abdominal cavity. Figure 1 is a sketch intended to represent the first stomach in its natural situation ; a, the anterior pouch ; J, the anterior-posterior, the one which is opened in these cases / c, the mid- dle, and (?, the posterior-inferior. The place of puncture is in the flank about three inches below the spinal column, and mid-way between the last rib and the hip. The instrument recommended by veterinary sugeons is called a trocar ; it consists of a stilet, having a lancet-shaped point and a sheath. We give Professor SiMONDs' directions, as follows : " The stilet should be about six inches in length, and when placed within the sheath it should protrude about three-fourths of an inch ; its diameter may vary from three-eighths of an inch to half an inch. In performing the operation it is best to first puncture the skin with a lancet ; which having been done, insert the point of the instrument in the wound and thrust the 152 Practical Dairy Husbandry. stilet covered by the metal sheath inwards and slightly downwards, using sufficient force to penetrate the coats of the rumen ; afterwards withdraw the stilet leaving the sheath in the situation. The sheath is to remain until the gas has escaped, when it is to be removed and the edges of the wound in the skin brought together by a stitch of strong silk." As farmers are not usually provided with the proper instruments for per- forming the operation, a dirk-bladed knife may be used, and a quill or any small tube introduced into the punc- ture for the escape of the offending gas. There is no danger attending the operation when the proper instru- ment is used. Figure 2 represents the point where puncture should be made — at the point where the lines a, h and c, d intersect each other. Fig. 2. HUTCHINS' rUMIGATOR FOR DESTROYING LICE ON CATTLE. The fumigator consists of an iron cylinder with a circular bellows attached to one end, and the opposite end is contracted into a nozzle, so as to be easily inserted into the wool when using it for sheep ticks. It also has sieves at each end of the cylinder to prevent the fire passing into the bel- lows or out through the nozzle ; by this means the smoke is never hot enough to do the least injury to animal or plant. The cylinder being filled with cut tobacco and pressed down a little, same as you would fill a tobacco pipe, is ignited on top, and the smoke is forced out through the nozzle by the action of the bellows. For ticks on sheep, introduce the nozzle into the wool, and give one or two good pufis ; then move it from two to four inches, and puif again, and so on till you fill the fleece with smoke. It will take from two to four hours to smoke one hundred sheep, and one pound of tobacco will be sufficient for that number. To kill lice on cattle, colts, &c., fill the hair with the smoke, then blanket them. In all cases go over them again after the nits hatch. It is better to take sheep into the open air to smoke them to prevent it making the operator sick. For lice on plants and bushes of all kinds, also for the currant worm, squash bug, &c., cover the bushes or plants with some old clothes box, or anything to hold the smoke, then give them a good smoking ; it will not injure the plant, but will kill the vermin. MILK. Of all the vai'ious foods used for the support of human life milk is one of the most perfect. It is almost the only food that will, when used alone, support life, and maintain health and vigor for an indefinite length of time. The earliest records of our race tell us of flocks and herds, and it may be assumed that not only the milk of animals but that the products of milk, in some form, have been employed in the diet of man from the most remote times. But while milk has been the natural food of the young of ali mam- malia, and while it Las been, for ages, both in its natural and manufactured state, a blessing to the poor and a luxury to the rich, little was known com- paratively of its composition, and of its behavior under certain peculiar conditions, until within the last half century. Milk is described by the chemists as a secretion produced from the elements of blood and chyle, by the mammary gland of the female animal of the order, majwinalia^ after giving birth to young. It is a whitish, opaque liquid, of an agreeable, sweetish taste, and a faint but peculiar odor. It is slightly denser than water. Cows' milk of good quality has a specific gravity of about 1,030; woman's milk, 1,020 ; goat's and ewe's milk, 1,035 to 1,042; and asses' milk 1,019; that of water being 1,000. Whatever food has the efiect of inducing the secretion of a very large amount of water, must necessarily give milk poor in quality. Such is the efiect when food is supplied of distillers' grains, grass from irrigated meadows, acid slops, obtained by allowing barley meal, cabbage leaves, and other vegetable matter mixed with a great deal of water, to pass through the lactic acid fermentation. There cannot be much question but that whey may be added to this class of food, though there seems to be great difference of opinion among those who feed whey to milch cows, as to its materially affecting the proportion of solid constituents of the milk. We need a series of carefully conducted experi- ments to satisfactorily determine this matter and put the question at rest. Dr. VoELCKER is led to conclude from his experiments that milk is rich when it contains twelve per cent, of solid matter and about three per cent of pure fat. Anything above this is of extra rich quality. 154 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. SPECIFIC GEAVITT A TEST OE QUALITY. The specific gravity of milk is an important test of its quality. From experiments made in the Doctor's laboratory, for the pm-pose of ascertaioing the influence of dilution upon the specific gravity of milk, and the quantity of cream thrown uj), some useful hints are obtained. Water being the standard at 1.000, cream 1.012 to 1.019, and good milk 1.0320, the tempera- ture always being 62° Farenheit, the following results were obtained: Specipic Gkavitt Per Cent. Cbeah IN Bulk. Pure Milk at 62° Fahrenheit " " and 10 per cent, of water, " " 20 " " " 30 " " 40 " " " 50 " " 1.0320 1.0315 1.0305 1.0290 1.0190 1.0160 UK 10 Experiments with the hydrometer and direct weighing give the following ; Specific Gravity at 62 o before Skimming. Specific Gravitt at 62 o f. after Skimming. By Htdkometer. By Direct Weighing. By Direct Weighing. Pure Milli,. -|- 10 per cent, of water,. -1-20 " " . . -1-30 --40 --50 1.0320 1.0285 1.0250 1.0235 1.0200 1.0170 1.03141 1.0295 1.0257 1.0233 1.0190 1.0163 1.0337 1.0308 1.0265 1.0248 1.0208 1.0175 Another experiment made upon skimmed milk with hydrometer gave the nwincr ' following Specific Gratitt. Skim Milk,. with 10 per cent, of water,. 20 30 40 50 1.0350 1.0320 1.0265 1.0248 1.0210 1.0180 From these investigations the following conclusions are drawn : 1. That good new milk has a specific gravity of about 1.030. 2. That skim milk is a little more dense, being about 1.034. 3. That milk which has a specific gravity of 1.025 or less, is either mixed with water or is naturally very poor. 4. That when milk is deprived of about ten per cent, of cream and the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 155 original volume is made up by ten per cent, of water, the specific gravity of such skimmed and watered milk is about the same as that of good new milk ; this circumstance however, does not constitute any serious objection to the hydrometer or lactometer, as milk skimmed to that extent cannot be mixed with water without becoming so blue and transparent that no instrument would be required to detect the adulteration. 5. That when unskimmed milk is mixed with only twenty per cent, of water, the admixture is indicated at once by the specific gravity of about 1.025. Mr. Flint gives the result of a test of difierent specimens of milk, the hydrometer and lactometer being used on the morning's milk, at a tempera- ture of of sixty degrees. The scale was graduated for pure milk at one hun- dred degrees. The first pint drawn from a native cow stood at 101 Degrees. Strippings of same cow, 86 " Milk of pure bred Jersey, 95 " " " " Ayrshire, 100 " " " Hereford, 106 " " " Devon, Ill " While their cream stood, 66 " All these specimens of milk were pure, and milked at the same time in the morning, carefully labeled, put in separate vessels, and set upon the same shelf to cool off; and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to twenty-five degrees ; or, taking the average quality of the native cow's milk at ninety-three and one-half degrees, the variations amounted to seventeen and one-half degrees. ■ But knowing the specific gravity at the outset, of any specimen of milk, the hydrometer would show the amount of water added. This cheap and simple instrument is therefore of frequent service. At the cheese and butter factories the lactometer and cream gauges are the only instruments employed to determine whether milk is delivered pure or has been watered. It is found that notwithstanding the milk of different cows in the same herd will vary considerably in specific gravity, still when it is all massed together, the specific gravity of such milk, if compared with the milk of different herds of a neighborhood, will be very nearly the same. It is from this fact that the attempt has been made in New York to establish the lactometer test as competent evidence in the courts, and some of the lower courts have so ruled. LACTOMETER IN COURT. An interesting and important case was tried in 1868 at the Circuit Court held at Herkimer, Judge Foster presiding, as to whether the hydrometer or lactometer, as it is commonly called, be or be not a reliable milk test, and alone competent to convict where the instrument indicates watered milk. The suit was brought by the Treasurer of the Frankfort cheese factory against one of its patrons, to recover a penalty for alleged violations of the law to 156 Practical Dairy Husbandry. prevent adulteration or watering of milk. The plaintiff claimed that the defendant at certain times during the year 1865 brought to the factory milk which, when tested there by the hydrometer and cream gauges, indicated from twelve to seventeen per cent, less specific gravity than pure milk, and hence that it had been diluted with water. No other proof was in evidence except the tests of the instruments at the factory as above named. The defendant denied the allegation, and he and his three sons testified that the milking and " Lactometer. o Theemometbk— Nickel Plated, Floating Theemometeb. carrying the milk to the factory had been done by them, and that no water, to their knowledge, had ever been added to the milk. The witnesses on the part of the plaintiff were the manager of the factory and some of its patrons, together with several managers of factories from different parts of the country and Canada, of large experience and of high reputation. The plaintiff proved the testing of defendant's milk at the fac- tory by the hydrometer and cream gauges — that it was deficient in cream Practical Dairy Husbandry. 157 and indicated by the hydrometer from twelve to fifteen per cent, of water. Several managers of factories stated that where the tests were applied to the milk known to be pure, from different dairies, the variations were generally no more than from two to three per cent, from the standard of pure milk. Several of them testified also, that they regarded the lactometer to be per- fectly reliable as a milk test, and that this conclusion had been arrived at from hundreds and even thousands of tests of milk from dairies as it came to the factory. The plaintiff's counsel attempted to show from reported analyses of milk, and from other sources, that the variable constituents of milk, for the most part, were the cream and the water, both of which were lighter than pure milk, that consequently, where there was a deficiency of cream and the specific gravity was less than pure milk, as had been shown in the milk furnished by the defendant, it could be accounted for in no other way than from adulteration or watering the milk. The defense took the ground that the hydrometer was a mere float, well adapted to determine the specific gravity of fluids and of milk, but that the latter being made up of several constituents, all of which were liable to vary from time to time, the specific gravity of the compound at the factory gave no positive evidence of its quality as it came from the cow, unless such quality had been clearly ascertained as a standard from which to make comparisons. It was proved by several witnesses that in testing milk known to be pure, from different cows, with the hydrometer, there was considerable variation, sometimes as much as ten per cent.; and this variation had occured where the cows were of the same breed, fed on the same kind of food, and general treatment alike. It was proved from the books and from witnesses that the quality of milk is affected by various circumstances, such as difference of breed of the cows, quantity and quality of food, distance from time of calving, withholding salt for a time, and then salting, health of stock, general treatment, &c. From Voelcker's analysis of four samples of new milk, it was shown that the water varied from 83.90 in one himdred parts, the butter from 7.62 to 1.99, the caseine from 3.66 to 2.94, the milk sugar from 4.46 to 6.12, and the mineral matter from .64 to 1.13, making percentage of dry matters vary from 16.10 to 10.05. Another analysis of several specimens of milk was referred to in the Keport of the Department of Agriculture, where the difference in constituents was considerable, one specimen showing 93.0 of water, 1.8 of butter, 3.4 of casein, .8 milk sugar, and .1 of salts— thus making a variation of water between that and the specimen analyzed by Voelcker of over nine per cent. The milk sugar varied nearly five per cent., and the ash over one per cent. It was proved also that in making tests of milk with the hydrometer, great care was necessary in having the temperature exact, and in having the milk thoroughly mingled or stirred together, since the upper portion of the milk was of less specific gravity than that at the bottom. One of the witnesses testified to the following experiments made with 158 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the milk of different cows in his own dairy. I was present at the tests, and 'helped to conduct the experiments : First. A heifer's milk at 80°, when tried with the hydrometer marked the instrument i° below zero, showing five per cent, variation from pure milk. Second. Milk of cow eight years old at 80°, hydrometer stood i° below zero, a variation of two and a-half per cent, from pure milk. Third. Milk of all the cows mingled together in the vat at 80° ; hydro- meter f° above zero, showing a variation of 3.75 per cent. Fourth. Thin cream at 80°, taken from night's milk in the vat; hydro- meter sunk below 10°, or the point graduated as pure water. Fifth. Milk at 60°, taken from near the bottom of the vat, and where the whole depth of milk in the vat was only four inches ; hydrometer stood 1 ° below zero, showing ten per cent, variation from pure milk line. Sixth. A portion of the above milk in the vat, taken from the top at 60° ; hydrometer stood f ° below zero, or 3.75 per cent, variation. Seventh. The above milk thoroughly stirred and mingled together in the vat, and at 60° ; hydrometer |° below zero, or 7^ per cent, variation. Eighth. The same milk above, stirred together and raised to 80° ; hydro- meter ^° above zero, or one and a quarter per cent, lighter than pure milk. Ninth. Milk from twelve years old cow at 80°; hydrometer |° above zero, showing five per cent, water. Tenth. Milk from eight years old cow at 80° ; hydrometer stood at zero, or pure milk mark. Eleventh. Milk from a two years old heifer at 80° temperature; hydro- meter |-° above zero, or five per cent, variation. Twelfth. Milk from a two years old heifer, 80° temperature ; hydrometer i° above zero, or two and a-half per cent, variation. Greatest variation in milk of different cows as above tested at 80° tem- perature, one degree or ten per cent. For every 2.28° of temperature the hydrometer marked one per cent, variation. I have thus given some of the leading points as brought out in this case in regard to the hydrometer or lactometer. The arguments of counsel on both sides were able, as was also the Judge's charge to the jury, which, after a mature deliberation, brought in a verdict for the defendant, thus settling the question that the hydrometer alone, in cases of this kind, is not sufficient to convict. ^ The Court House was densely crowded and great interest manifested by dairymen and others during the whole time this case was being tried, which lasted two days. Counsel for plaintiff, Hon. R. Earl and Brother, of Herki- mer; for defendant, Hon. Roscoe Conkling and Hon. F. Keenan. I may remark here, in closing, that the result of this suit does not lessen the value of the hydrometer and cream gauges in the hands of intelligent persons. They act as sentinels, warning the operator of any unusual condition of the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 159 milk, and when such occurs he should not hastily jumi? at conclusions, but look carefully at all the causes likely to have influence in the case, and then make up his judgment upon them. TEST OF "WATERED MILK. In making a test for watered milk, two equal glass jars or cream gauges are taken, and a small jar which is graduated and used for a one per cent, glass. ISTow one of the cream gauges is filled to gauge mark, ten, with milk which is known to be pure and drawn from several cows. This will be the standard for pure milk for that day. Fill the other glass, to the same number, .10 -20 t 30 .10 -20 .30 Ceeam Gauge. Per Cent. Glass. Cbeasi Gauge. with milk from the can you wish to test. To avoid any mistake, mark the first jar pure milk, by putting the letters P. M. on the side or bottom. Set the jars away, side by side, a sufficient length of time for the cream to rise. Now note the quantity of cream on each. If a less quantity is found on the milk you are testing than on the other, it indicates dilution or skimmed milk. Now remove the cream from each with a spoon; introduce the hydrometer or lactometer into the jar marked P. M. and note on the scale mark where it 160 Practical Dairy Husbandry. floats. Now place the hydrometer into the other. If it sinks lower than in the first, it is very strong evidence of dilution with water. Replace the' lactometer in jar marked P. M. and from per cent, glass filled with water exactly to or zero, pour into P. M. jar until the lactometer sinks exactly to the same point as in the other jar. Now count or number on per cent, glass from zero down (each mark represents half of one per cent.), and you will have precisely the percentage of water with which the milk you are testing has been diluted. Care must be taken to have the temperature of the samples the same. EECENT MILK TESTS, The subjoined results of milk examinations made during the present year, 1871, by Mr. J. A. Waukltn, member of the Royal Bavarian Academy of Sciences, and published in the London Milk Journal, will be of interest in this connection : — " In making examinations of milk for sanitary or commer- cial purposes, it is customary to use determinations of specific gravity as indices of the strength of milk. It is, howevei-, recognized that owing to the circumstance of cream being lighter than water, while skimmed milk is heavier, the indication of strength afforded by a determination of specific gravity is not very precise. Obviously, if in addition to the specific gravity, the percentage of cream were taken, a connection could be applied so as to rectify the indication of strength derived from specific gravity. In the course of an examination of milk, undertaken for this Journal, the observation was made that there is another source of inaccuracy hitherto quite unsuspected. Skimmed milk consists mainly of water, caseine, milk-sugar, and a small quantity of mineral salts. Now, the exact molecular condition of the caseine influences the specific gravity of milk. In other words, samjiles of milk of the same strength will vary in specific gravity according to the exact mole- cular condition of the caseine. Especially are these changes in condition brought out if milk be kept for a while. This is illustrated by the following examples. " In attempting to analyse articles of general consumption, with a view to determine the extent of adulteration, it is necessary to operate on a large number of samples obtained from bona fide purchasers, and to adopt means calculated to ensure comparable results. We do not intend on this occasion to enter fully into the subject of milk analysis, but we may state that plans commonly adopted are of little worth. We have had to notice the untrust- worthiness of specific gravity determinations of milk — that is to say, the danger of judging of the strength of milk by its specific gravity. To be of any value at all, the specific gravity determination must be made while the sample of milk is very fresh. After milk has been kept for two or three' days, even in a closed vessel, its specific gravity falls in a very remarkable manner. The following examples exhibit this in an extreme form. The specimens of milk had been kept in corked bottles for four days : Pb. ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 161 Sample «, Showing that the highest specific gravity sometimes accomisanies the lowest percentage of solids. The reason of this want of correspondence between specific gravity and solid contents we have already explained. Meanwhile, in judging of the strength of milk, we propose to adhere to the method of evaporating to dryness in the water-bath, and weighing the residue. " We have examined seven samples of milk sent to us by diflferent persons, with a request that they should be examined. We have found in one hundred parts by weight of each, as follows : No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, " The sample No. 6 is a gross case of dilution. It is milk supplied to a workman's family in Bethnal-green, and contains no less than four parts of water to six of milk. Samples Nos. 5 and 7 are not so bad, but unless dilu- tion had been practiced, the milks were exceedingly and abnormally poor. " We recently obtained a specimen of country milk from the Dairy Reform Company. We procured it in the perfect confidence that, if pure unadulterated milk can be obtained from any source, it can be obtained from this admirably- managed association. The specific gravity was 1024.8, taken with great care with an accurate balance, at a temperature of 60® Fahr. As a crucial test we sent a special messenger to the Victoria Dairy, in Union Street, Hackney, to obtain four samples of milk from one cow. We wished to test the milk as drawn straight into the sample bottles from each quarter of the udder. The results were : Sp. gr., at 60° Falir. Right side, front quarter 1020.4 Leftside, " " 1021.3 Right side, hind quarter ^. ., 1023.0 Leftside, " " 1023.5 "The cows in this dairy are well cared for, and fed on meal, clover, and other foods calculated to give a good qualitv of milk ; but we thought the 11 162 Practical Dairy Husbandry. drawing of the first portions of milk from each quarter would scarcely give fair samples, since the strippings are always richer. We have also obtained, as the result of the strippings from all the quarters, milk with a specific gravity of 1025.1. When, therefore, a great deal is made of very high specific gravities, we can only say, from a milk consumer's point of view, that the results must be accepted with due caution. " We rely more for practical purposes on careful weighings of the solids obtained directly from milk at the boiling point of water, and of the ash, after carefully burning the same solids. The results are most satisfactory ; and we have examined samples from several dairymen in Kensington, which prove that the milk dealers are far from being the very black sheep they are so commonly represented to be. Last month we had to record very poor results, and we should have exposed one or two of the most shameful cases of dilution had we the ojjportunity of repeated examinations. This month we have been more fortunate in every respect, as the subjoined list indicates : Total Solids Najsie and Address. dried at SIS'' Fahr. Ash. Tunks and Tisdall, Newland Terrace, Kensington. . . , Clarke, Kensington Place, High Street Watson, Russell Gardens, Addison Road, Kensington. Lunn, Cliurcli-street, Kensington Kniglit, High-street, Kensington 13.12 13.16 12.51 12.47 11.25 0.61 0.65 0.66 0.76 0.74 "These are fair samples. The first four are virtually alike, and undoubt- edly rich. The last sample of milk is poor. " A sample of milk direct from the cow, obtained from the Victoria Dairy, gave: Total solids. Ash. 13.60 0.75 " This is very rich, and ' strippings ' above referred to, with sp. gr. of 1025.1, yielded Solids. Ash. 18.74 0.63 " No comment is needed when these results are compared with many published analyses. SPONTAlsrEGUS CHANGES IN MILK. " The remarkable diminution which the specific gravity of milk undergoes on keeping, noticed in last month's Journal, induced us to study the changes occurring in milk from the moment it is drawn. As it comes from the cow it is at the temperature of the body, viz., about 100® Fahr., and in the most perfect state of emulsion. There are some material difierences in the chemi- cal composition and physical characters of different portions drawn in succes- Practical Dairy Husbandry. 163 sive quantities into separate vessels in the "one act of milking. Thus a sample —the first eight ounces of milk drawn direct into a bottle gave : lu 100 parts 17.33 solids. 0.70 ash. The specific gravity taken the same day at 60* was 1020.4. The specific gravity taken two days later at 60° Fahr. was 1030.2. "An average sample of the same cow's milk taken the next day, with due care that the Avhole secreted by the one quarter of the udder was drawn ofi" and well mixed, yielded : In 100 parts 13.60 solids 0.75 ash. The specific gravity at 60° Fahr., was 1031.3. " Lastly, the ' strippings,' after drawing the sample which gave the last result, and having well milked the cow, showed : In 100 parts 18.74 solids 0.62 ash. The specific gravity at 60° Fahr. was 1024.6. " From the whole course of our experiments, it appears that the first change which milk experiences is a contraction. Specific gravity 1020 becomes specific gravity 1030. The next change is expansion— and this occupies some days— which is manifested by the specific gravity sometimes falling below 1000. We reserve further details for a future number. We have said enough to caution people against trusting to the lactometer in determining the nutritive value of milk." ABSORPTIVE PROPERTIES OF MILK. The following note on the remarkable properties of milk in absorbing and retaining exhalations such as those of tar, carbolic acid, and other ill- smelling substances, is from the pen of Mr. Lawson Tait, F.R.C.S., of Bir- mingham. He writes : " In the month of April last I was engaged with my friend Mr. M. E. Naylor, veterinary surgeon, in examining the conditions attending the spread of the foot and mouth disease in the West Riding; and, amongst other stations of sufiering, we visited the farm attached to the West Riding Lunatic Asylum, under the superintendence of my distinguished friend Dr. Crichton- Browne. I had a long conversation with the intelli- gent farm bailifi; Mr. Turner ; and, amongst other experiences I tasted the diseased milk. I found that this had a peculiarly disagreeable, smoky taste, and at first I rashly set this down as due to the disease of the cows. I found, however, that this smoky taint was by no means confined to the milk yielded by the afiected animals ; and Dr. Browne told me that he had sometimes occasion to send away milk and cream from his table, which was unfit to use an account of this smoky taste. A little examination further showed us that this flavoring was due to the recent asphalting which had been done in and near the milk-house. It at once flashed across my mind that, if milk acquired this tarry flavor from absorption of the exhalations of asphaltum, it was just 164 Fk-ACtical Dairy Husbandry. possible it might also acquire other things which were not so innocuous ; and I at once set going a series of experiments which have led me to the belief that milk is an extremely dangerous agent for the spread of contagion. I need not say that I did not try any experiments, as they were all personal, with contagious matter ; but by inclosing fresh milk under bell-jars with tar, turpentine, assafoetida, faeces, urine, &c., I found that in most instances the milk became impregnated with the smell, and sometimes with that intensely disagreeable sensation which we know as the ' taste like the smell ' of the substances employed. The degree to which this was acquired seemed not so much to be in proportion to the amount employed either of milk or of infec- tant substance, but to the amount and quality of the cream which rose to the surface of the milk ; the oleaginous molecules seeming to act as the menstruum of contagion. This is not unlikely, when we remember that the best solvent for nearly all odoriferous principles is oil. Clinically, this question will be m.ost diificult and dangerous to work out. For one, I shall not attempt it. But, if we bethink ourselves of any instances of diseases which might in certain instances be communicated by milk, typhoid fever stands out with fearful probability." These observations are of obvious importance to the farmer, not only as indicating the infections of which he must beware, but the high-smelling sulphurous, chlorinated, carbolic, or tarry disinfectants — such as sulphurous acid, chlorine, chloride of zinc (Burnett's fluid), carbolic acid, and McDougall's powders, against which he must be equally on his guard, however much they may be pressed on his attention by interested or imperfectly-informed persons. COLOE OF MILK. Milk of average good quality contains about eighty-seven per cent, of water. It is for the most part an emulsion of fatty particles, in a solution of caseine and milk sugar. Thus the proportion may be stated to be very nearly, in one hundred parts, as follows : Water, 87.40 Butter, 3.43 Caseine, 3.13 Milk Sugar, 5.13 Mineral matter, 93 100 Milk varies in its composition in different cows, at different seasons, or when fed upon different kinds of food, — the greatest variation in either of its solid constituents being in the butter. The fatty particles are inclosed in little cells of caseine. In other words the butter is encased in curds. These milk globules are generally round or egg-shaped. They are of different sizes in different animals ; and even in animals of the same kind they vary from the l-2000th to the l-4000thpart of an inch. Viewed under the microscope milk appears as a transparent fluid, in which float these innumerable small Practical Dairy Husbandry. 165 round or egg-shaped globules — the so-called milk globules. The fluid consti- tutes the bulk, and the milk globules but a small fraction of the milk. The white apj)earance of the milk is due to the milk globules suspended in it. As these globules are separated in the shape of cream, the milk becomes clearer and acquires a peculiar bluish tint which at once indicates its character, "As blue as skimmed milk" is an old adage — a familiar expression, if not a familiar fact to most jDcople, whether they be dairymen or otherwise. Com- pletely sef)arated from the milk globules, the fluid is a perfect solution of curd or caseine, albumen, milk sugar, and mineral matters. These butter bags or cells, being lighter than milk, rise on standing, and are removed as cream. The less transparent the milk is, the better, and the more butter it contains. If it were possible to separate the cream completely by standing, the skimmed milk would be almost colorless ; but as a certain number of milk globules always remain suspended in milk, even after long standing, skimmed milk is always more or less opaque. In the ordinary process of setting milk and skimming, the fatty matter is not wholly removed , with the cream which rises ; for if the skimmed milk be made into cheese, the cheese on analysis will be found to contain butter, though the quantity may be small. But that the butter is not all removed from the skimmed milk, will perhaps be as satisfactorily indicated to the dairyman, by observing the thin coating of cream which rises upon the whey obtained from the man- ufacture of " skim cheese." Skimmed milk and buttermilk, having a whitish appeai'ance, still contain minute milk globules, with shells of caseine, or caseine in solution, which color the fluid. TINT PROM THE FOOD COWS PEED 027. It may be observed that the food Avhich cows ffeed upon sometimes imparts its peculiar tint. It is a well known fact that food containing substances of a medicinal character which pass rapidly into the milk, imparts to it medicinal properties, similar to those in the substances themselves. Thus, if castor oil be given to a milch cow in considerable quantities, the purgative effects of the oil pass into the milk. The i^eculiar flavor of turnips, cabbage, or onions, used as food, passing to the milk, is of so common an occurrence to those in habit of handling milch stock, that it will be readily recognized as a fact. In like manner, the tint of some kinds of weeds passes into the milk and colors it. Most authors state that cow's milk is either neutral or slightly alkaline, and that the milk of carnivorous animals has always an acid reaction. The samples of milk taken from different animals of my own herd, when tested with blue litmus paper, have invariably shown an acid reaction. When milk is allowed to turn acid by keeping for some days, or when any acid or rennet is added to new milk, the curd of milk, contaminated with more or less butter, separates in the form of a Avhite, flocky, voluminous substance, having a slightly acid reaction. When dried it shrinks greatly in bulk and becomes semi-transparent and honi-like. In this 166 Practical Dairy Husbandry. condition it is scarcely soluble in water, but dissolves with readiness in a weak solution of caustic potash and soda ; and is again precipitated from its alkaline solution, by acetic or mineral acids, and restored to its former gelati- nous condition. CASEINE exists in milk in a state of solution, and is distinguished from albumen, which it resembles closely in composition and general physical properties, by not coagulating on boiling, and by being precipitated by rennet. On boDing a solution of caseine it absorbs oxygen, and in consequence a pellicle which is insoluble in water is gradually formed upon the surface. A similar pellicle is formed when skimmed milk is boiled. New milk gradually heated to near the boiling point of water, throws up cream, while at the same time, a skin of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface. Thus in the noted " clotted cream " of Devonshire we find more curd than in cream collected in the ordinary manner. When I was in Devonsire, I was particularly interested ■ in knowing how this highly esteemed English delicacy was made, and I shall describe the process, as I frequently saw it in opei'ation among the Devon- shire dairies. DEVONSHIRE CKEAM. The dairy house is of stone, usually in connection with the dwelling ; stone floors and stone benches for the milk to set upon, and all well ventila- ted, and scrupously neat and clean. The milk is strained in large, deep pans, and put in the dairy house, where it stands eight to ten hours, when the pans are taken out and the milk scalded, by placing the pans holding it in an iron skillet filled with water and set upon the range. At the bottom of the skillet there is a grate on -which the pan of milk rests, so as to keep it from the bottom and from burning. The milk is slowly heated to near the boiling point, or until the cream begins to show a distinctly marked circle or crinkle around the outer edges When the first bubble rises on the surface of the cream, it must be immediately removed from the fire. Some experience is necessary in applying the heat, to have it just right, otherwise the cream is spoiled. When properly scalded, the milk is removed to the dairy, where it stands from twelve to twenty-four hours, according to the condition of the weather, when the cream is removed and is in a thick compact mass, an inch or more thick, and quite diflferent from our ordinary cream. It is then divided with a knife into squares of convenient size, and removed with a skimmer. It is more solid than cream obtained in the usual way, and has a peculiarly sweet and pleasant taste. It is considei-ed a great delicacy, and is largely used in England, with sugar, upon pastry, puddings, or fresh fruits, and especially upon the famous gooseberry pie. It makes an extensive article of commerce, and is really a delicious article of food. I do not know as this cream has ever been manufactured in this country, but it certainly deserves to be introduced, and perhaps would prove profitable. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 167 solubility of caseine. The solubility of caseine iu milk, says Voelcker, is generally ascribed to the presence of a certain small proportion of free alkali. But though it is quite true that alkalies are excellent solvents for caseine, and milk is fre- quenily slightly alkaline, it may be questioned whether the solubility of caseine is due to the presence of free alkali ; for even in milk which is slightly acid, and therefore does not contain any free alkali, all the curd occurs in a soluble form ; nor does the addition to new milk of diluted acid iu quantities which, though small, are sufficient to render it decidedly sour, cause the separation of caseine. This takes place only after a large qantity of lactic acid has been formed spontaneously, or an excess of free acid has been put into the milk. And he remarks further, that the action of rennet on the soluble form in which caseine occurs in milk is peculiar, and as yet unexplained. It was supposed for a long time that EENNET COAGULATED MILK by converting the sugar of milk into lactic acid, and that the lactic acid, by neutralizing the free alkali, was in reality the agent in effecting the separation of the curd in a coagulated condition. But this view is no longer tenable ; for rennet at once coagulates new milk without turning it acid in the slightest degree. He affirms that he has even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet separated the curd by rennet, and obtained a whey which had an alkaline reaction. In my interviews with Professor Voelcker in London, during the summer of 1866, he said to me that the chemists were as yet quite unable to explain the coagulating principle of rennet, or even to give it a name. Since that time, by the aid of the microscope, the coagulation of milk has been explained, and if the theory is correct it opens up a very interesting field of investigation. I shall presently refer to these microscopic investigations, and give the views now entertained by scientific men on this question. When curd is exposed to air in a moist condition, it undergoes partial decomposi- tion and becomes a ferment, which rapidly decomposes a portion of the neutral fats of butter, separating from them butyric and other volatile fatty acids which impart the bad flavor to rancid butter. Caseine ferment also rapidly converts milk sugar into lactic acid. Pure caseine of milk has almost precisely the same composition as vegetable caseine or legumen, and possesses the same physical and chemical qualities. albumen. When rennet is added to milk it separates into curd and whey, and if properly conducted a perfectly clear whey is obtained. On heating the clear and filtered whey nearly to the boiling point of water, a flaky curd-like sub- stance separates itself. This substance is considered to be albumen. It exhibits all the distinguishing properties of white of egg or albumen, but has not yet been subjected to ultimate analysis. The albuminous matter which is not separated by rennet, but coagulates on boiling the whey from which 168 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the curd has been previously removed, amounts in cows' milk to from one-half to three-quarters per cent., or about one-quarter to one-fifth part of the caseine. It is somewhat remarkable, says Dr. Voelcker, that this albuminous matter does not coagulate when new milk is simply raised to the boiling point of water. In this case a pellicle of oxydized caseine is formed on the surface, but no albumen separates, and it thus appears that the curd of milk has first to be removed by rennet before the albuminous matter can be obtained in a coagu- lated form. Whether some practical method will yet be invented for arrest- ino- this highly nutritious constituent of milk and incorporating it in the cheese remains to be seen ; but up to this time none of the ordinary methods of cheese-making have sufficed. DENSITY OF CREAM. I have said that the milk globules are small, roimd, or egg-shaped bodies, which inclose in a thin shell of caseine a mixture of several fatty matters. They are somewhat lighter than milk and consequently they rise on the sur- face when milk is set aside and remains at rest. Cream is slightly denser than pure water, and will therefore sink in distilled water. By churning the cream, the caseine shells are broken, and the contents of the milk globules made into butter. MILK SUGAR is contained in the clear whey from which curd and albumen have been separated, and is prepared by evaporating in shallow vessels until crystals begin to separate. The sugar of milk is less sweet than grape or cane sugar. It requires five to six parts of cold water for solution ; dissolves readily in boiling water, and crystalizes again on cooling, in white, semi-transparent, hard, small crystals, which feel gritty between the teeth. In a pure state it may be kept, unadulterated, for any length of time, but if left in contact with caseine and air it gradually becomes changed into lactic acid or into fruit sugar, which in its turn enters into alcoholic fermentation, producing carbonic acid and alcohol. Most of the milk sugar of the shops is now manufactured in Switzerland. It forms an article of commerce, being used largely in the preparation of medicines. It is usually sold at the shops at from six to eight shillings per pound, and it has been suggested that it could be profitably manufactured here, and employed for various purposes, were its cost cheap- ened. A firm in Chicago have recently advertised for the whey of the Western cheese factories, and propose to enter upon milk sugar manufacture. MINERAL MATTERS. The mineral matters of milk consist mainly of phosphate of lime and magnesia, and the chlorides of potassium and sodium, besides a small quantity of phosphate of iron, and some free soda. A thousand pounds of milk, according to the analysis of Haidlen, woxild contain from five to nearly seven pounds of mineral matters. The relative proportions of the several sub- stances are given by Haidlen as follows : Practical Dairy Husbandry. 169 Phosphate of lime " of magnesia " of peroxide of iron Chloride of potassium " of sodium Free soda 2.31 .43 .07 . 1.44 .24 .42 4.90 3.44 .64 .07 1.83 .34 .45 6.77 I have now given a very full account of the diiferent constituents of milk as described by the chemists, and found by chemical analysis ; and it is important that those who manufacture milk into dairy products, have some' general idea of the component parts of the material with which they have to do. * QUALITY OF MILK HOW AFFECTED. The quality of cow's milk is affected by the age of the animal, as well as by the distance from the time of calving. Now, as to the milk of aged cows, the general impression in this country among dairymen is, that the milk of old cows is quite as good or even better than that of young cows. Hence the almost imiversal practice of our dairymen is to retain good milkers on the farm, and if no accident occurs, on account of which their milk fails, they are kept in the dairy until quite worn out with age and are then turned off— but little better than mere skeletons of hides and bones — at from six to ten dollars per head. In England I found a very different practice prevailing. When milch cows have attained an age of from six to eight years' they are put in condition for the shambles and sold, A good profit is thus realized on the animals for meat, irrespective of what may have been made in the dairy. They hold that the milk of old cows is of inferior quality to that of young cows, and chemical ' analysis, it seems confirms this opinion. Again, as old cows consume more food than young cows, and are therefore more expensive to feed, nothing appears so unprofitable as to keep cows until they grow old. Voelckeb affirms that generally speaking, after the fourth or fifth calf the milk becomes poorer. This is a very important question in the economy of dairy practice, and it is one which I hope will be thoroughly investigated at our agricultural colleges. Milch cows sell at from seventy to eighty dollars. If turned for beef at seven to eight years' old, there will be little or no loss, but if kept four years longer and sold for ten dollars, the loss on first cost of the animal is some sixty dollars, or fifteen dollars per year. influence op food iisr changing the relative constituents of milk. There is another interesting question which I hoj^e to see investigated at our agricultural colleges, and that is, whether the food upon which the cow is kept, has much, or little, or no inufluence in changing the quality of milk, 170 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. or the relative proportions of its various constituents. Dr. Kuhn, a German chemist, in a recent communication to a meeting of agricultural chemists at Halle, Germany, answers this question in the negative. His opinion is based upon an experiment with eleven milch cows, and he believes the result to be correct, as the experiment was made with great care. He says : — " Green clover was fed with or without the addition of cut straw, so that the propor- tion of nitrogenous elements to the non-nitrogenous elements of the food varied from 1 to 2.5 to 1 to 3.5 ; nevertheless the relative proportions of the several constituents of the dry substance of the milk, as fat, caseine, albu- men, and sugar, remained constant throughout. The relative proportions of the several dry constituents of the milk appear, therefore, he says, to depend, not on quality of the food, but on special characteristics in the constitution of the animals themselves. Dr. KuHN says he has con&'med this result by experiments with a more varied mixture of food, since he has fed hay alone, then hay with starch, with oil, with beans, with bran, so that in one instance the proportion of the nitro- genous to the non-nitrogenous was as 1 to 8.1. It is not possible, he says, by any choice of food to modify the character of the milk so as to make it richer, for example, in fat or any other organic ingredient ; this can only be done by a judicious selection of the breed of milch cattle. The proportion of water however, to the ingredients of the milk may be affected by the char- acter of the food ; so that the richness of the milk in any given constituent, as for example, oil, may be increased ; but at the same time every other con- stituent except water is increased in the same proportion. The following paper communicated during the past year (1871), to the New York Tribune, by a student of Scientific Agriculture, at one of the German Universities, will explain more in detail the theory referred to : I"N"FLUENCE OF FODDEE UPON MILK PRODUCTION. Some accounts of experiments on the best methods of feeding cattle, made at the Agricultural Experiment Station in Moeckern, Saxony, have already appeared in an article entitled " Best Food for Milch Cows." An account of another experiment, the object of which was to determine the effect of differ- ent kinds and quantities of food upon the milk production, will be interesting, from its practical as well as scientific bearings. The question to be solved is this : WJiat effect does the quality — the com- position — of the fodder, have tipon the quality — the composition — of the tnilJc? If I have a dairy and make butter, it is worth while to know whether, by increasing the amount of fatty matter in the food, I can get a milk richer in butter, or whether in case I wish to make cheese, during the hot summer months, I can increase the amount of albumen and caseine in the milk, by adding albuminous material to the food. Here in Germany, when a ques- tion of this kind arises, they have a simple way of settling it. They " try and see." And the spirit in which this trying and seeing, this experimenting Practical Dairy Husbandry. 171 is done, is the same spirit that has made Napoleon to-day a prisoner upon German soil, and borne King William, with his victorious army to the gates of Paris ; the spirit of System, of patient, systematic, thorough, intelligent work. How Dr. Kuhn and his assistants carried on this experiment, and what its plan and results were, we shall be better able to understand after a little reviewing of some of the fundamental principles of physiological chemistry. The chemistry of the present day informs us that there are two general classes of substance which make up the great bulk of the organic matter of the plant, and of the animal body, or of its products, as milk. The main difference between them, as shown by chemical analysis, is that the one class contains nitrogen, while the other does not. Hence they are styled nitro- genous and non-nitrogenous substances. But the physiologist finds that they have very different uses in the animal system ; that the non-nitrogenous or carbo-hydrates, as they are also styled, contribute more to the formation of fat, and make also fuel, whose combustion keeps up the animal heat — while the nitrogenous build up the muscles, the lean meat, and, at the same time, are believed to be especially efiicient as a source of strength, in the same way that the carbo-hydrates generate heat by their consumption in the system. Let us, then, fix thoroughly in our minds the names and chief offices of these two classes of substances : 1. Nitrogenous, or albuminoids — flesh-forming, strength-giving. 2. Non-nitrogenous or carbo-hydrates — fat-forming, sources of animal heat. Meanwhile we will be content to know that in hay, in meal, in meat, in milk, indeed in all that makes up the food and flesh of animals or men, these two classes of substances constitute the most important part, and that this distinction lies at the foundation of that application of science to cattle-feeding, which is called, on this side of the Atlantic, "Rational Foddering." Fat meat, the fatty portions of milk, and the butter are non-nitrogenous, but lean meat and skim-milk cheese are nitrogenous. So the question to be decided by our experiment is. Will a ration, rich in carbo-hydrates, give a milk rich in butter, or will a milk rich in albuminoide be produced from a food of corresponding composition 9 In the stables of the Moeckern Station, are some stalls especially set apart for cows under experiment. During the course of the experiment these cows are fed and milked under the direct supervision of one of the chemists, Dr. Haase, whose duty it happens to be to attend to the feeding and milking. The cows are quietly eating their hay and oil cake, a cow-maid is milking one, and the Doctor is looking on to see that no milk is spilled, and is ready to take the milk and weigh it as soon as it is ready. The general plan of the experiment is to feed the cows during one period of two or three weeks, with a ration rich in albuminoids, the ration being made up of hay, which we con- sider normal fodder, to which is added bean meal or rape cake, or some other substance rich in nitrogen ; and then change the proportions, and for the next period furnish a preponderance of carbo-hydrates, or hay, with oil, starch, 172 Practical Dairy Husbandry. &c., and note the difference, if any, in the quantity and quality of the milk. That would seem to be quite a simple matter, but in fact it is a very compli- cated work. To feed a cow three weeks on the highly nitrogenous food, and then suddenly change to a highly non-nitrogenous ration would be too great a shock upon the internal system to allow the experiment to be reliable. And further, natural change, that takes place in the composition and amount of the milk, indej^endent of the fodder, makes the work still more comjDlicated. To get over these difficulties we must start with a jDcriod of normal fodder- ing on good meadow hay, then gradually change, through a transition period, to the more or less nitrogenous feed, as the case may be, and continue this latter course of feeding for a long while, so as to be sure that it has a fair opportunity to work out its full effect ; then, in a second transition period, pass gradually to normal fodder ; then on to the second sjDecial ration, which, on the supposition that the former was over-rich in nitrogen, will have an excess of carbo-hydrates. When this period has run on long enough there comes another transition period, during which the carbo-hydrates will be removed, until at length we come back to meadow hay again, and this normal foddering is kept up through the last j^eriod. The actual rations in the differ- rent periods of the experiment were : Period I. Normal Fodder — Meadow Hay. Transition, in which a highly nutritious material — bean-meal — was added in increasing quantities. Period II. Nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with bean-meal or rape- cakes. Transition, during which bean-meal was replaced by carbo-hydrates, oil, or starch. Period III. Non-nitrogenous Ration — Meadow hay, with oil or starch. Transition, during which the carbo-hydrates were withdrawn. Period IV. Normal Fodder — Meadow hay. " The amounts and compositions of the different rations are estimated by accurate weighings and analysis. The yield of milk during the normal periods at the beginning and end of the experiment gives us a means of estimating the line of changes through which the quantity and quality of the milk would run, the natural variation in amount and composition during the whole time of the experiment — some three months and a-half — and the variations from this line during the periods of special foddering, give us the influence of the foddering upon the milk, the results aimed at in the experiment. And what seems to be the probable result of these experiments ? Thus far, it appears that no change in the quality of the food is capable of materially affecting the quality of the milk, at least so long as the ration is of such quality as to be healthy, and is given in sufficient quantity." Meanwhile one of the cowmaids has finished milking, and brings the pail to the Doctor. He weighs it carefully on a scale standing close by and notes the weight. "You will notice," he says, " that the cows are numbered one, two, three, four. For each one there is a separate set of measures for the fodder, and a separate milk pail. This is No. 3. The exact weight of pail is Practical Datry Husbandry. 173 known, and that, subtracted from the whole weight of j^ail and milk togetlier gives the weight of the milk. As you see, I have the milk weighed from cow three. A portion intended for analysis is poured into a dish marked three, the date is also noted, and it is taken into the laboratory with similar portions from one and two and analyzed. The composition of the food given is also known from analysis, the quantities fed are regularly and carefully weighed out, and detailed accounts of the food given and milk obtained are kept, so that when the experiment is finished we have all the data from which to draw our conclusions." Omitting further details we pass at once to the result. First, as to the natural changes that the milk undergoes during the milking period, that is to say, as the time from calving increases. The average amount of milk given was : First period, 18.1 lbs., with normal fodder, meadow hay ; last period, 14.6 lbs., with normal fodder, meadow hay. Falling ofi" in three months, 3.5 lbs. Other- wise than in this falling oiF about a pound per month in the yield, there was no especial change, save a very slight increase in the richness of the milk. Indeed, it appears from these and other investigations, that there is generally a very slight change in the composition of milk during the milking jDcriod — that it becomes somewhat richer, and that there is a slight increase in the relative amount of albuminoids, and decrease in that of fat and sugar. How- ever, during the first three or four months at least, this change is too trifling to be of any practical consequence. Now as to the main result of the exper- iment, the influence of the nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous rations. The changes in the composition of the milk during the middle periods were so extremely small as to be of no real importance. In fact, the variation observed from day to day, and the difierences in the milk from the different cows were greater than those found in the milk given in the different periods. To show how extremely small these differences were, and at the same time to give an illustration of the chemical composition of milk, I append the follow- ing figures, the first column showing the average composition, with the normal fodder of meadow hay, and the second with the addition of bran meal or rape cakes to the hay, the third with hay and oil or starch. In one thou- sand parts obtained from these articles were contained : NOBMAL Ration. Nitrogen- ous Ration. NON-NITBO- GENOUS Ration. Water 878 41 44 28 7 880 40 44 39 7 883 Butter 39 Milk Sugar 43 Albuminoids 29 Mineral Matters 7 In short, the differences are so minute as to be of no practical account whatever, and it appears that the variations in tlie quality of the ration were without effect upon the composition of the milk. Now, let us make sure that 174 Practical Dairy Husbandry. we understand this thoroughly. We have been talking of " quality " and " composition " of milk and fodder. By this we mean the relative amounts of the different ingredients of the milk, water, sugar, fat, albumen, caseine, &c. The more organic substance, sugar, fat, and albuminoids in the milk, the richer ; the more water, the poorer it is. When we say that the milk grows gradually richer with the increase of time from calving, we mean that there is more organic substance and less water in a quart when the cow has been milked six months than when she has been milked only one month. The quantity, the whole " mess " yielded each day, will be larger at the end of one month than at the end of six months, and on that account the amount of the organic substance in the whole " mess " will be greater in the former case, while the amount in one quaint will be greater in the latter. And when we say that variations in the quantity of the fodder are without effect upon the quality of the milk, we mean that the relative amounts of fat, sugar and albu- minoids in the organic substance of the milk are unaltered thereby. Suppose now I feed a ration, say twenty-five pounds of second quality hay, from which my cows yield an average of twenty pounds of milk a day, containing two and a-half pounds of organic matter, of which forty per cent., or one pound, is butter. I increase this ration, or make it richer by the addition of turnips, oil-cake, &c., and obtain a yield of twenty-four pounds of milk, or one-fifth more. I have then a corresponding increase of one-fifth in the organic matter and the butter, and three pounds of the former and one and one-fifth of the latter. There is just one more point to be explained. The experiments show that the composition of the oi-ganic substance remains unaltered by changes in the fodder ; but how is it with the relation of water and organic substances — the richness in the milk ? Will not green fodder, or pasture-feeding, give a more watery milk, and consequently a larger yield ? I am not aware that this especial subject has been tested with sufiicient thoroughness to decide the question. It has long been the opinion of practical men that a dry fodder would make a richer milk than green fodder. The later German experiments seem rather to oppose this idea, or at least to show that their effect is much less important than has generally been believed. But so much is certain : When I have once found a ration upon which my cows will thrive, each one of them will give a certain amount of milk, the organic matter of Avhich will have a certain composition. By varying the ration I can vary the total yield of milk and of organic substance — that is to say, of butter and cheese produced, and may possibly bring about a slight change in the relative amounts of organic substance and water ; but the amount of organic substance in a quart of milk will vary but slightly, if at all, and the quality and the amount of butter in an ounce of organic substance will be practically unaltered. Had but one experiment of this sort been made, the use of its conclusions for establishing rules for practice would be open to objection. But the better Practical Dairy Husbandry. 175 scientists of the present day have learned the fallacy of building conclusions on such narrow foundations, and taking warning of the fall of earlier and poorly supported theories, are loth to proclaim a theory to the world until it has a reasonable basis of experiment. Dr. KuHN has carried out quite a number of investigations similar to the one above described, and several other well known investigators have been for some time past at work upon the same subject. One of these latter, Pro- fessor Wolff, Director of the Experiment Station at Hohenheim, in Wurt- emberg, gives the result of a long series of investigations in the following language : " One interesting result of these experiments is, that the quality of the milk — the amount of butter it contains — leaving the taste out of account, has always remained the same, in spite of manifold and important changes in the quality of the fodder. In fact, the changes in the amount of butter in the milk, as determined by chemical analysis, are so unimportant as to be entirely unworthy of consideration. As the practical result of this, we are left to infer that the quality of the food exercises no influence upon the quality — the content — of butter in the milk, while, on the other hand, the effect of fodder becomes readily and distinctly manifest in the quantity of the milk yielded, and in the increase or decrease of the live weight of the animals. The quality of the milk seems, therefore, to be determined by the peculiarities of the breed or the individual animal, at least as long as the fodder is healthy, palatable and sufficient in quantity." Dr. KuHN gives the result of his own experiments, in so far as they are directly applicable to practice, in similar language : " The influence of variations in the fodder in these experiments was mani- fested in the amount of milk yielded alone, and not in the quality. The influence upon the quantity is, however, quite apparent. As regards the desire of the farmer to increase the production of a certain element of the milk, as, for instance, butter, by a change in the quality of the fodder, the above law is fully valid. The farmer must, on the other hand, look to the peculiarities of different breeds of cattle for that quality of milk which is best adapted to his own special purpose. If he would increase the quantity of milk yielded he must select such individuals as give a good yield." Foddering, then, if rightly managed, may increase the quantity of the milk, but will not alter its quality. Must, then, the milkman who sells his milk in the city, and the country dairyman who makes butter and cheese, be content with the same quality of milk ? — or is there some other means by which each may obtain a milk adapted to his special purposes ? Dr. Kuhn" suggests the answer to this question at the close of the paragraph just quoted. The subject is an important one ; let us pursue it a little further. Every man who will realize the largest profits from his cows must see to it, Jirst^ that he has good inilkers • second^ that he feeds them well. If he desires a large yield of butter, he must select breeds and individuals whose milk is rich in 176 Pbactical Dairy Husbanvby. butter. If he sells his milk in the town, and does not care so much for the quality, as long as the quantity is large, he will do best with other breeds and other individuals. At least so say the best German authorities, and they have experimented enough upon the subject to entitle their opinions to confidence. What is believed here in Germany concerning the best method of fodder- ing, and how science and practice have contributed to the grounding of German theories on " rational foddering," will perhaps form the subject of another article. It will be more appropriate here to notice something of what statistics, experiments and practical experience say as to the milk and butter-producing qualities of difierent breeds. la Saxony and Prussia, where a great deal of attention has been given to this matter, the Hollander, the Holsteiner and Oldenbui-ger breeds, from the lowlands of North-western Europe, the Allgauer, from the mountainous regions of Southern Bavaria, and the English breeds — the Ayrshire, Suffolk, Cheshire, Yorkshire, &c.— rare the most popular as milkers ; while the Short- Horns, &c., are preferred for fattening. The statistics of a large number of farms in the Kingdom of Saxony, for the year 1853, show that the average yield per cow in the year 1853 was : Qts. of SULK. Lbs. op BUTTER. Lbs. of butter in 100 LBS. OF MILK. Allgauer 2,664 3,859 3,110 369 253 190 10.1 Hollaiidt;!' 8.8 8.5 Whence it appears that the Hollanders are the largest milkers, but that the Allgauers give a milk much richer in butter ; one hundred pounds of milk from the former making 10.1 pounds of butter, of the latter only 8.8 pounds. A very natural conclusion from this would be for the butter-makers to select Allgauers, and the milkman who sells his milk in town to fill his stables with Hollanders. And, indeed, among the milkmen in this region, Hollanders are the most popular breed. As to the qualities of the English races as butter producers there seems to be a lack of accurate statistics. The best sources represent the average butter production in England at one hundred to two hundred pounds per cow, yearly ; and in the lowlands across the Channel — Holland and Holstein — at considerably less, or some one hundred and twelve pounds, which would make the English cows better butter-producers than the Hollanders. Yon Weck- EKLEiisr, a note^d German cattle-breeder, who has made this subject a matter of a great deal of observation and experiment, puts the English breeds, the Yorkshire and Suffolk, a little below, and the Devons and Herefords some- what above the Allgauers, but finds them all superior to the Hollanders in Practical Dairy Husbandry. 177 richness of milk. The Short-Horns have likewise the reputation of giving better quality but smaller quantity of milk than the Hollanders. In general in Germany, where English, French, and German breeds of cattle have been tried quite thoroughly, the Short-Horns are, as far as my own observation goes, looked upon as most excellent for fattening ; the Allgauers, Devons, and Herefords are much liked for butter and cheese-making, while the Hollanders are special favorites among milkmen. It seems to me that these two breeds, the Allgauers and Hollanders, deserve rather more attention among our cattle-raisers in America than they have as yet received. We are quite well acquainted with English breeds, but the German are almost unknown to us. And yet the most intelligent German farmers, who can import Devons and Durhams as well as Hollanders and Allgauers, and who have tried all these races faithfully, give the decided preference to the Allgauers and Hollanders as milkers, and consider the Short-Horns superior only in fattening qualities. The Allgauers are small or medium-sized, jBne-boned, thick-set, and very finely built. The large amount of milk yielded by this breed, its richness, and at the same time their small consumption of food, make them most desirable cows for the dairy. Some herds average between two thousand five hundred and two thousand six hundred quarts per head yearly. For regions where fodder is uncertain, and not over good quality, the Allgauers can be very highly recommended. The Hollanders, on the other hand, are lai'ge and stout built — the cows often weigh sixteen hundred and fifty or even seven- teen hundred pounds, and are remarkable for their very large milk production, amounting in some cases to nearly four thousand five hundred quarts per year, though not very rich in butter. They require, however, rather high feeding, but, on the other hand, are very easily fattened. On these accounts the Hollanders are specially adapted to the neighborhoods of large towns where brewery, and distillery refuse and commercial food, as oil-cakes, are cheap, and the fresh milk finds ready sale." Now this difiers from the opinion expressed by Prof Voelckee, who says that : " Milk may be regarded as a material for the manufacture of butter and cheese, and according to the purpose for which the milk is intended to be employed, whether for the manufacture of butter, or the production of cheese, the cows should be difierently fed." And he remarks further, that " Butter contains carbon, hydrogen or oxygen, and no nitrogen. Cheese on the contrary, is rich in nitrogen. Food which contains much fatty matter, or substances which in the animal system are readily converted into fat, will tend to increase the proportion of cream in milk. On the other hand the proportion of caseine or cheesy matter in milk is increased by the use of highly nitrogenized food. Those therefore who desire much cream, or who produce food for the manufacture of butter, select food likely to increase the proportion of butter in the milk. On the contrary, when the principal object is the production of milk rich in curd — that is, when cheese is the object of 12 178 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the farmer, clover, peas, and bean meal, and other plants which abound in Legumin — a nitrogenized organic compound, almost identical in properties of composition with caseine, or the substance which forms the curd of milk — will be selected. As a matter of pure theory, the latter position seems to be the more reasonable. And in practice it has been observed by our dairy- men, that when pastures have a good proportion of the finer clovers, especially the white clover, the cows feeding upon them yield abundant returns in cheese. So also in spring feeding, when bran and pea and oat meal are used in connection with hay, a much larger percentage of cheese is produced than when fed upon Indian meal. But carefully conducted experiments, with accurate analyses of the milk, would add much to our stock of knowledge on this vexed question of animal foods. Indeed, Voelckee remarks in some of his more recent investigations, that we cannot increase or improve, ad infinitum^ the quantity or quality of milk. Cows which have a tendency to fatten when supplied with food rich in oil and in flesh-forming materials, like linseed cake, have the power of converting that food into fat, but they do not produce a richer milk, and they may even produce it in smaller quantity. It is this which renders all investigations on the influence of food upon the quantity and quality of milk so extremely difiicult. According to theory, it would appear that food rich in oily or fatty matter would be extremely useful in rich milk, but in practice we sometimes find that it produces fat and flesh instead. Sometimes its influence is even injurious, for cows supplied too abundantly with linseed cake produce milk which does not make good butter ; and he refers to an instance of this kind where the milk of cows so fed furnished cream that could not be made into butter, and when put into the churn it beat up into froth, nor by any manipulation would the caseine separate from the butter. Yoelcker says, on examining this milk, and trying to separate as much as possible, the solid or crystalized fat from the liquid fat, I found that the latter was very much in excess of the former. CLIMATE has a most marked efiect on the quality of milk. In moist, cool seasons, though a larger quantity of milk is produced, it is poorer, the amount of solid matter being less than in dry, warm seasons. This peculiarity has often led to serious errors in estimating the probable yield of dairy products in New York. In cool, moist seasons when pastures are abundant and cows are yielding a comparatively large flow of milk, a largely increased product of cheese is predicted, but at the close of the season, to the great surprise of many, the quantity falls below that of dryer seasons. I have known the annual product of cheese to fall off in Herkimer county, in such seasons, very considerably. As to the causes of this variation, something no doubt is due to the greater amount of water in the food present in wet seasons, but how much is due to temperature and moisture of the atmosphere, or Its efiect on the health and condition of the animal, we do not know. That Practical Dairy Husbandry. 179 the general state of health and condition of the animal has an influence on the quality of the milk need hardly be stated. THE SIZE AND BREED of the animal, as we have previously remarked, have an important influence on the quality of milk, and generally speaking the small breeds are better for butter, and the larger breeds for cheese. THE FIKST MILK after the cow has given birth to her young, contains an unusually large quantity of caseine. Bossingault found on analyzing such milk, that it con- tained, in one hundred parts, about four times as much caseine as in ordinary milk, the constituents being as follows : Water, 75 . 8 Butter (pure fat), 2.6 Caseine, 15.0 Milk sugar, ' 3.6 Mineral matter, 3.0 100. This peculiarity disappears after eight or ten days, and the milk assumes its ordinary condition. THE STRIPPINGS. What are the " strippings " ? Probably about one-half of the people in cities, or a large share of those born and brought up in cities, if they were to choose milk as drawn from the cow, would take that which is first milked. I was looking over a somewhat noted dairy recently, while the hands were milking. In this particular dairy it was customary to save the " strippings " by themselves, keeping them separate for a special purpose. While one of the milkers was drawing the strippings, a very intelligent gentleman who was visiting the family, came out with a cup to get a drink of warm milk. Following the milker to the dairy, where the milk was to be strained in pans, our visitor was invited to hold his cup under the strainer of the " strippings." " No," said he, " I do not care to take the dregs ; I want the richest milk, and will take that which was drawn first, in the other pail." When the milkmaid told him the " strippings," or last drawn milk, was nearly all cream, and that it was set apart for making choice butter, he mani- fested the greatest surprise, and said the thing was entirely new to him. A great many people are no wiser. Now, cream being lighter than milk, the denser or heavier portion of the milk is drawn first from the udder, while the lighter parts, rich in butter, remain back, and make up what is known among dairymen as " the strippings." It will be seen, then, how important it is that the last drop of milk in the udder should be drawn while milking, and that when particular attention is not given to this point the loss is much more serious than a waste of the 180 Practical Dairy Husbandry. same quantity of first drawn milk ; for the one is thin cream, while the other is nothing more than plain milk. There is another loss, of course, in not milk- ing clean, as it has a tendency to dry up the cow, or lessen the secretion of milk from day to day. It is very difficult to impress milkers with the impor- tance of drawing the " strippings " from the udder. Many milkers are in the habit of finishing their work just as soon as the free flow of milk ceases. Such milkers, it is needless to say, entail a heavy loss on the dairyman in the course of the year, and if they milk many cows they waste more than their wages. The " strippings " make a very nice quality of butter, and some butter makers think it pays well to keep them separate from the first drawn milk. It is a little more troxible to the milker to separate the " strippings," as it necessitates having a " stripping pail," but there is no doubt that it educates milkers to milk clean, if of no other advantage. THE MILK OF DISEASED COWS. I am convinced from extensive observation that great ignorance or thoughtlessness prevails among many in regard to the use of bad milk. From numerous experiments during many years, in feeding the milk of " ailing cows " to pigs and calves — the milk from those cows that happen to be ill from time to time in my oAvn dairy — I long since became satisfied that such, milk is a much more fruitful source of disease than is commonly imagined. In dairies, whether the milk is to be delivered at the factory, or made up on the farm into butter and cheese, or sent to the town or city for consumption, what is the usual practice of the milk producer ? Is it not to be feared that the milk of diseased cows — of cows whose feet or udders ai'e afifected with sores or ulcers, and discharging corruption — is sent forward to be used as human food in the majority of instances ? Many doubtless have a faint notion that the milk of a sick cow, or one afflicted with sores or ulcers, is not just the kind of milk to be used, and is not such as they would care to use in their own families; still, as there would be a loss in throwing such milk away, the conclusion is that it can do no injury to other people, and so long as the consumer is ignorant of all the facts no harm is done. Others affirm, and doubtless believe, that the milk of a sick cow when mingled with other milk and made into butter and cheese, becomes in some way purified in the process of manufacture, so that nothing unwholesome remains in the butter or cheese. The difficulty of always tracing disease to its true source and of detecting the poisons thrown off in the milk of diseased animals, may help to hide the culpable practices of dairymen and milk producers, but the moral wrong remains the same ; and I cannot but think that the nuisance would in part become abated, if people were fully convinced they were sending out food heavily freighted with the elements of disease and death. If the loss from bad milk must be in some way mitigated, would it not be better to make the saving by feeding it to pigs or calves upon the farm, since the health or life of an animal is less valuable than that of human beings ? Practical Dairy Husbandry. 181 Prof. Gamgee, in his address before the American Dairymen's Associa- tion, in referring to the foot and mouth disease, then so prevalent in England, says : — " The poison of this disease is found in the vesicles within the mouth, and is discharged with the gallons of saliva secreted daily, under the irritation produced by the eruption on the tongue, palate, cheek and lips. It is also formed in vesicles on the teats, and finds its way into the milk, and thus it kills young pigs, calves, and even children that get milk fresh or undiluted." And he remarks further, that although he " has no facts to indicate whether cheese and butter would retain the virus for any length of time, yet in all probability they would ; and a trustworthy observer assured him some years since, that a pudding made with milk from a sick cow, though boiled, produced the disease in a family of five grown persons." The unwholesome- ness of milk from city dairies, Avhere the cows are kept in underground stables and fed largely on distillers' slops and refuse garbage, has been proved over and over again, from the investigations of scientific men. Country milk has been generally supposed to be perfectly Avholesome and harmless, but if all the facts concerning its production were known, I fear it would often be found very objectionable as an article of food. INJURY TO MILK FEOJI COWS I^THALING BAD ODORS. The injury to milk from cows inhaling bad odors is not well understood, or at least has not elicited much attention from those who have had the care of milk stock, and made dairying a specialty. It is only of late years and since the inauguration of the factory system, that American dairymen have had their attention called to the various causes influencing the quality of milk. We have now a class of men following a distinct and special calling — men whose time and thoughts are almost wholly given to the manipulation of milk in butter and cheese manufacture. The competition between different factories and the discrimination made by dealers in dairy products, have stimulated these workers in milk to make close observation and inquiry concerning the condition of milk; and their investigations have brought to light many things that are new respecting the material upon which they are employed. From the investigations of these men, old theories, long promulgated as truths, have been exploded and shown to be false. As we become better informed as to the nature of milk, and the causes influencing its quality, our dairy products improve, and any one who has watched the progress made in this department during the last half-dozen years, cannot but come to the conclusion that American dairy products are destined to reach a standard of flavor and quality surpassing in excellence anything that has hitherto been produced. Among the new class of questions now claiming the attention of intelli- gent cheese manufacturers, is the one we have named, viz. : the influence upon milk resulting from cows breathing bad odors while at pasture. That milk is often tainted in this way has long been suspected by observing cheese 182 Practical Dairy Husbandry. manufacturers, though it was difficult to trace out the cause and establish the principle. A few years ago Mr. Foster of Oneida Co., N. Y., brought this question prominently before the American Dairymen's Association and gave undoubted evidence that bad milk could come from such a source. He was having considerable trouble with the milk at his factory, and finally traced it to his own dairy, where the greatest care was taken in milking, in the clean- liness of milk vessels, and everything pertaining to the dairy. This fact led him to investigate the matter thoroughly, to examine the water and feed with which the cows were supplied, together with the health and treatment of the stock, in the hope of discovering the cause. Finding nothing at fault in these particulars, and the trouble still continuing, the conclusion forced itself upon him that the cause must come from the cows inhaling bad odors. In a field adjoining one part of his pasture a neighbor had left exposed a dead horse, which in its decomposition carried a bad odor over that part of the pasture. Here the cows in feeding inhaled a sufficient quantity of the offending gases to taint the milk, as he concluded ; for on calculating the time it was found that the trouble with the milk dated at about the period the horse was left so exposed. Arguing from these premises he had the putrifying carcass removed and buried, when the trouble in the milk immediately disappeared. Mr. L. B. Aenold, a very close observer and of much experience in handling milk, gives a similar account of tainted milk caused by cows breath- ing air polluted by carrion. In this case the trouble in the milk was traced to one particvilar dairy, and a committee was appointed to visit the premises. The committee found nothing at the stable, in the milking nor in the general care of utensils, to cause tainted milk. But on examining the pastures they did find the air polluted by carrion, upon the removal of which, as in the other case, the taint in the milk at once disappeared. I could enumerate other cases of similar character, and the evidence warrants the conclusion that milk can be tainted in hot weather by cows inhaling a polluted atmos- phere like that we have named. If the facts are worthy of credit, and the conclusion is correctly drawn, it opens up a very important question for dairymen, in the production of milk. IS MILK IMPROVED BY EXPOSURE TO THE AIR WHILE COOLING? One of the leading questions now being discussed by cheese manufacturers is, the importance of cooling milk at the farm and as soon as drawn from the cow, if it is to be carried to the factory. I was the first to bring the subject to the attention of New York dairymen several years ago, and though I have persistently urged its importance from time to time, it is only quite recently that its necessity has been generally acknowledged. That milk properly cooled at the farm will arrive at the factory in better condition than it would had the animal heat been retained, no one having any experience in handling milk at a factory for a moment doubts. Experiments upon this point have been numerous, and results have demonstrated the fact Practical Dairy Husbandry. 183 in the most positive manner. But while it is now universally admitted that cooling has a preservative influence upon milk, it is not so clear to all that a free exposure of it to the air during the cooling process improves its flavor. There are those who contend that the cooling of milk by any process, will at the same time deodorize it ; in other words, that the animal odor is a " bug- bear " — that milk as soon as drawn from the cow may be placed in an air-tight vessel, and cooled down to 60°, and may then be carted to the factory, and will be as perfect in flavor and condition as it would if all its particles had been freely exposed to the air during the process of cooling. The question is one of considerable importance, since there are two classes of coolei's before the public ; one representing the first and the other the last principle. I have always held that freshly-drawn milk is improved by being exposed to a current of pure air ; that the health of the cow, her food, water, and various other circumstances have an influence upon her milk, rendering it at times imperfect, and rank in flavor ; and that its exposure to the air takes out, in some degree at least, disagreeable gases, making it more palatable. We know that other substances infected with a disagreeable odor are often improved by being exposed to the air, or are freed of it altogether ; and it is not easy to see why milk may not be subject to the same law. Perhaps if milk was always in perfect condition an exposure to the atmosphere while cooling would not be deemed so impoi'tant. I cannot say that with all milk at all seasons, an exposure to the air for the purposes referred to would be necessary. That must be a matter of experiment and investigation. But the fact that milk is produced often under unfavorable circumstances ; and that it sometimes possesses a taint before it is drawn from the cow, would seem to favor the notion that airing it would be beneficial. The exposure to the air of milk coming from cows fed upon turnips may not free it altogether from the turnip flavor ; but the chance for its improvement, I think, would be greater from this treatment than to shut it out from the air, and to cool it in a way that permits no gases to escape. A few years ago I prevailed upon Mr. Arnold to investigate and experiment in this matter, in order to see if my own experiments and conclusions were correct. He arrived at the same results. In order to show that there is no necessary connection between animal heat and animal odor, and that animal heat does not difier from heat derived from other sources, he made the follow- ing experiments, which I give in his own words : " By abstracting the heat rapidly by an application of ice and cold water, I easily succeeded in removing the heat and leaving the odor in the milk. It is true that in experiments for this pui-pose, the odor was not so apparent to the olfactory nerves as to the organs of taste. The animal odor became an animal ^avor. But upon warming the milk again the odor revived. Then by the use of a filter of pulverized charcoal, I succeeded perfectly in remov- ing every trace of animal odor from milk when first drawn and leaving the animal heat in the milk." 184 Practical Dairy Husbandry. After pointing out what animal odor is, he says : — " Because the cowy smell has died away when the milk is down to 70° or below, it has usually been supposed that the odor or cause of the odor was whoUy removed. But it is by no means necessarily so ; for unless the cooling has been very slow, or the milk has been spread so thin as to make the exit of the gases easy, the cause of the odor (the condensed gases) will be there, and be readily detected by the taste ; and at 68° or 60° it will remain there until the milk sours. The cowy flavor is most effectually preserved when milk is cooled in a close vessel shut out from the air, and the heat absorbed away by an appli- cation of ice and cold water." Again : " The gas in milk varies both in quality and relative effect. For instance, it is in the smallest amount when the cow is in good health and quiet. It is more abundant when actively exercised, as when sharply driven to the yard by dogs. It needs but little hurrying, especially in the morning, to make the effect apparent in cheese. It is different in health and disease, and very abundant and very infectious in cases of fever. There is more in a state of debility than of strength ; and more when pinched with cold than when comfortably warm. " The most marked effects that I have observed, have been produced by the odor of milk from cows in a feverish state — a state that may generally be detected readily by smelling the milk. It becomes so infectious that a small quantity — the milk of a single cow even — will infect a whole vat full of good milk. In connection with the rennet, it becomes a ferment, inducing rapid changes in the milk and curd. New gases are evolved, which, becoming more elastic as the temperature is raised, swell out the lump of curds, giving them a soft spongy feel, till at length their bulk is so much increased that they float in the whey. But perhaps some will say this is the result of diseased milk ; it is not chargeable to animal odor ; the milk is faulty. I once thought so too, but I have found since that I was mistaken. In the worst cases I have seen, the milk, for aught I can discover, is as good as any other. It may be somewhat altered in the proportion of its elements, perhaps it is, but it does not differ materially from other milk when new. I filtered a sample of feverish milk in the fore part of August, when the weather was so very hot and dry, and floating curds were so very common ; the result was very striking. The filter was all ready and the milk turned in as soon as drawn, and though it stood at about 90" when it issued from the filter, it was free from any offensive odor, and its flavor was delicious," and very different, he remarks, from milk cooled by ice-water to a low temperature. The remedy he suggests, is to give the gases from which the odor arises a chance to escape as soon as possible after the milk is drawn ; for the reason that they are then more elastic and escape more easily, as well also to keep them from imparting an influence to the milk from their presence. And he remarks that this should be done at the dairy^ because it is generally a little Practical Dairy Husbandry. 185 too ^late when milk gets to the factory. The question is one ol much interest to cheese-makers, and should be studied. CA2SnsriNG AND KEEPING MILK IN GOOD ORDEE. The Food Committee of the Society of Arts in England, has been discuss- ing, recently, the means to be employed for preserving milk in good order during the transit over long distances to the city. It appears that milk pass- ing over the Great Western Railway to London, is in cans holding sixteen imperial gallons. An effort has been made to reduce the size of the cans to a capacity of about four gallons each, similar to those adopted in France. THE FRENCH CAN has a tight-fitting cover, and the vessels are completely filled, so as to prevent disturbance of the particles of milk, by motion in transit. It is said the milk passing over the railways in France, arrives at its destination generally in good order. The question therefore arose as to the advantage of these cans, over those of larger size, if any, in the preservation of milk during its transit to the city. Mr. Geo. Braham, managing director of the Express Country Milk Company, and who appears to have had large experience in this business, and to have been also a close observer as to the condition of milk under various circumstances, opposed reducing the size of the cans, on account of the greater trouble in moving to and from the milk vans. He stated that the great secret in having milk in good condition was in allowing it to cool sufiiciently before being placed in the cans. The shaking of the milk in the conveyance would not be greater in a large can than in a small one, provided in both cans they were filled thoroughly full. It was his opinion if milk was packed at a temperature of fifty to sixty degrees, the shaking would have no prejudicial effect upon it. If the milk was packed at seventy or eighty degrees, the agitation would tend to separate the butter and to promote the deposit of caseine ; and if the temperature of the air was no higher than that of the milk, no injury would be occasioned by the admission of the air to the milk, while it remained in the cans. He stated that a large quantity of milk arriving at night was left standing at the station until four o'clock next morning. The milk that was put in the cans warm and the lids kept on all night, acquired a bad smell, and it would take from two to three hours' expo- sure for that smell to pass off. EFFECT OF AGITATING MILK IN TRAVELING. As to the question whether the agitation of the milk in traveling destroyed the cream in the milk brought into London, Mr. Baetlett replied that the globules would not be destroyed if the milk was put into the cans at a sufficiently low temperature, say sixty degrees. effect of SOILS ON KEEPING QUALITY OF MILK. The Express Country Milk Company received milk for two yeai'S from Wareham in Dorsetshire, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles by rail, 186 Practical Dairy Husbandry. and seven miles by road. It arrived in London in fine condition. This result was attributed in part to the chalky nature of the soil where the milk was produced, and to the thorough manner in which the milk was cooled before being packed. He stated that it was a well known fact, that the milk of cows fed ofl" heavy clay land, would not keep so long by several hours, as that produced on light or chalky soils. The influence of soil upon the keeping qualities of milk, is a question which has received but little attention from the American Dairyman, and it would be well if experiments were made to determine this point. EFFECT OF CARRIAGE UPON THE CREAM PRODUCT. Milk that is carried does not thi'ow up so much cream when set, as it would if placed in the milk house at the farm. From the experiments in England, the amount of cream which rose to the surface of the milk when set, was rendered less by about twenty per cent, through traveling, that per- centage being retained in the milk. As to the advantage of cooling milk before canning, in order to prevent cream from rising and churning into butter while traveling ; Mr. B. said that the express company received ten cans of milk from one dairy every day last summer, and there was not a particle of butter in them, though they traveled two miles by road to the station, forty-eight miles by rail to the metropolitan terminus, and three miles by van to the place of business. Some of the cans were only three parts full, and yet the cream was retained in the milk, although from being cooled it would take some hours longer for the cream to rise. HOW ENGLISH CREAM IS TRANSPORTED. When cream is sent in a separate state to London it is packed solid in bottles prepared for the purpose, and kept cool by grass or cabbage leaves fastened around the bottles. MILKING FOR THE LONDON MARKET. For supplying the London market with milk, the system of twelve hours milking is generally adopted. The milk supplied in the early morning is milked during the night, say from seven P. M. to two A. M., the hour depending upon the time the last train at night, or the early train, calls at the country station. The afternoon milk is milked from nine to eleven A. M., and is distributed between two and four o'clock, P. M. OPEN OR CLOSED CANS. The English milk can has holes in the lid of the can, through which air is admitted to the milk. The Parisian milk is generally acknowledged to keep longer than that supplied in London, and this has been attributed to its being hermetically closed in the can while traveling. It was stated, however, that the real secret of the matter was, that the French dairymen mixed bicarbonate of soda with their milk, which served to avert decomposition, and hence the milk was kept in good order, for a longer period than milk in its natural state. I scive the main features or substance of remarks brought out, Practical Dairy Husbandry. 187 as they have a px'actical bearing on the great question now agitating the dairy- men of America — the means of getting milk in good order to the factories. COAGULATIO]sr OF MILK. We have now come to that jiart of our subject in which some of the phenomena connected with the coagulation of milk, and its separation into curd and whey, may be considered. I shall speak in another place of rennet ; a term used by dairymen to designate the stomach of the young calf after it is properly cleansed, dried, and prepared for the purpose of coagulating milk for cheese making. But the explanation of its action on milk, as well as the thickening or curdling of milk from souring, together with other somewhat peculiar behavior of milk, Avhich has not been satisfactorily accounted for on the old theories, will perhaps best be treated in this connection. I have alluded to the aid which has been given by microscopic investigations in the elucidation of these questions, and to the theory now set up by scien- tific men in regard to the coagulation of milk. In the discussion of this topic, I can only give briefly the outline of the theory, and I shall draw largely in what I have to say from the recent address of Prof. Caldwell, before the American Dairymen's Association. But in the first place, let us go back a little to the j)oint where the coagulation of milk was alluded to. If we take a piece of the dried rennet, soak it in water, and pour the liquid into a portion of warm milk it soon begins to thicken, and turns into a jelly- like clot, and after a while it separates into whey and curd. Scientific and practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is held in solution by a small quantity of alkali, that when in warm weather the milk curdles, lactic acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from a portion of the sugar of milk, and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali which holds the caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk. Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates sponta- neously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of rennet, in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the removal of the free alkali by lactic acid. This theory, says Voklcker, is not quite consistent with facts. The caseine in milk cannot be said to be held in solu- tion by free alkali ; for although it is true that milk often has a slightly alkaline reaction, it is likewise true that perfectly fresh milk is sometimes slightly acid. We might as well say, therefore, that the caseine is held in solution by a little free acid as by free alkali. Again, newly-drawn milk is often perfectly neutral ; but whether milk be neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution, which cannot therefore depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that milk when it turns sour curdles readily. It is not the fact that a good deal of acid curdles milk, which I dispute ; but the assumption that the caseine in milk is held in solution by free alkali. 188 Practical Dairy Husbandry. "the actiok or eennet upon milk, then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have treated this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as ferments, A rennet it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free lactic acid " I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated, and not simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh and neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is perfectly neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded in separating the curd by rennet, and, what is more, obtained a whey which had an alkaline reaction." And he says further : — " What may be the precise mode in which rennet acts upon milk I do not presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui generis^ which as yet is only known by its effects. We at present are even unacquainted with the j)i'ecise chemical character and composition of the active principle in rennet, and have not even a name for it." " Now, we know," says Professor Caldwell, " that any structure that has been built up by the vital forces acting in the vegetable or animal world, from the simplest plant that grows in water to the most perfect animal that walks on land, will, after life has departed, begin to suffer change if left exposed to the air under ordinary circumstances ; and this change will go on unless stopped by some artificial application, till the structure has nearly dis- appeared, and nothing more is left than would remain of the body were it at once put into the fire and burned — only a few ashes — while carbonic acid and ammonia have passed off into the atmosphere. Before this final change is reached, however, a great many intermediate products are formed, some of which are useful to man, some are poisonous, some have foul or agreeable odors, and some have peculiar flavors." "These changes and compositions are usually classified under three heads — ■ DECAY, EEEMENTATION AND DECOMPOSITION. " Decay is simply a slow combustion or burning of the body ; it depends upon a free supply of air from which the necessary oxygen is absorbed. In both fermentation and putrefaction, on the other hand, there is nothing but a re-arrangement of the particles or elements already in the body, sometimes with and sometimes without the evolution of gaseous products. If these gaseous products have no offensive odor, or if no ammonia is formed, the process is called fermentation, and generally some useful application of a part of the product of a fermentation is made — thus, sugar is converted by fermentation into a gas, carbonic acid and alcohol ; and in the preparation of bread we cause sugar in the dough to ferment by means of yeast, so as to produce carbonic acid, that in its attempt to escape makes the bread light ; while for beer and wine we cause sugar to ferment for the sake of alcohol. If, on the other hand, a part of the products have an offensive odor, or ammo- nia is found among these products, we call the change putrefaction. Ammonia Practical Dairy Husbandry. 189 is always one of the 23roducts of true putrefaction, and the offensive odor nearly always, though it may sometimes be weak. All substances which are liable to decay (fermentation or putrefaction), may be separated into two great divisions, namely : — Those that are composed of three elements, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and those which in addition to these three have one more, nitrogen. Compounds of the first class, like sugar, starch and fats, are usually very stable ; their elements are firmly united together, like the links of a strong chain. Compounds of the second class, on the other hand, like white of eggs, flesh and the caseine of milk are unstable ; the introduction of the element nitrogen has made a weak link in the chain. " Now it has been found by experiment, if the white of an egg or a piece of meat is boiled in a glass flask with water for an hour or so, and the mouth of the flask is then closed with a plug of carefully cleaned cotton, or with a cork through which a glass tube passes, that is drawn out to a fine orifice at both ends, and outside the flask has a long arm bent downward, the substance will remain unchanged for months, even in a place where all the circumstan- ces are made favorable as possible for putrefaction — free access of air through the interstices of the cotton plug, or through the glass tube — a plenty of moisture, and a suitable temperature ; and that no essential change has been produced in the substance by the boiling, may be shown by simply removing the plug, when putrefaction and decomposition will set in. On the other hand, if the experiment is varied only to this : that if the substance is not thoroughly heated to the temperature of boiling heat, putrefaction may speedily set in, even though the flask be closed air-tight. Now, microscopic examination has revealed the fact, that every case of fermentation or putre- faction is attended with the development or growth of living organisms; most of which at least belong to the vegetable kingdom, and the present most generally accepted view — that which has the balance of evidence in its favor — is, that these organisms are the cause of all fermentation and putrefaction ; that the dust of the atmosphere, as well as all fermenting or putrefying matter, contains either the germs of the microscopic fungi, or the fungi themselves in one stage of development or another ; that these germs fall on all sub- stances exposed to the air, and that if the substance so exposed is one that can nourish their further development, they will vegetate and increase, and in so doing cause the substance itself to decompose — that these fungi like all others, and like all plants, require moisture and a moderately elevated tem- perature for their growth, as well as food for their sustenance — are killed by exposure to a temperature of two hundred and twelve degrees, Fahrenheit, and that they live at the expense of a portion of the substance in which they grow, while the rest is decomposed, that is, fermented or putrefied, with the final result of the breaking down of the whole structure. Accordingly, the reason why the meat in the flask closed with a plug of cotton is not attacked, is that the germs, minute as they may be, are yet entangled among the fibers of the cotton, so that none reach the meat ; they do not attack the i90 Practical Dairy Husbandry. substance in the flask closed with a cork and glass tube, because the germs being heavier than the air, can be transported only by currents in it, or by cohesion to some moving body. There is no current of air passing through the glass tube into the flask that is sufliciently strong to carry them up through this long arm. " The reason why previous boiling is necessary is, that every substance that has been exposed to the air has some of the atmospheric dust containing these germs adhering to it, which, if they are not killed, will begin to vegetate and excite decomposition as soon as outward circumstances are favorable. The reason why substances of the second class will decompose more readily than those of the first class, containing no nitrogen, is, not only that the elements of the second class are more feebly held together, as before said, but also that these fungi must have nitrogen iu their food, and that although they can, to a limited extent, draw it from the large supply in the atmosphere, if exposed to that, yet they can get it far more easily and naturally from the nitrogen- eous matter in which they take root. " The result of the growth of these fungi on or in a substance, or in other words, the products of tlie fermentation or putrefaction which that growth induces, depend mostly on the nature of the substance, and the particular stage of development of the fungus, and often, but not always, upon the species of fungus ; not always, for in some cases several diflferent species of fungi produce the same efiect upon the same substance. On the whole, the result depends more upon the chemical composition of the substance that is decomposed, than upon the species of fungus producing the decomposition. The transformation which these fungi undergo is very remarkable. They assume many different forms, adapting themselves to the chemical composition of the substances with which they come in contact." THE FUNGUS AFFECTING CHEESE, The particular fungus intimately connected with the art of cheese-making is said to be the Pencillium crustaceum. It is found almost everywhere on the surface of the earth, constituting generally the greenish-blue mold that appears on vegetable and animal matters, and is concerned in all the common processes of fermentation and putrefaction. It is composed of delicate white filaments or threads that bear on their ends the groups of spores or germs, which to tlxe naked eye appear like a fine, bluish-green dust. If these spores are scattered over substances similar in chemical composition to that which produced the mold, it can be reproduced again and so on from generation to generation. But if these spores be sown on distilled water, they swell up and burst, expelling a great number of minute bodies, called zoospores. These soon begin to grow by elongation, and as each elongates partition walls are thrown across, so that one sac or cell becomes sevei-al, and the multiplication of cells is so rapid that from a single zoospore an almost incredible number of new cells can be produced in a few hours. According to Hallieb these Practical Dairy Husbandry. 191 cells, forming delicate, brittle chains, are found in great numbers every night, in the mouth or throat of all the digestive organs. If the spores of the mold are put under a liquid rich in nitrogen they swell up and expel the zoospores, and then each zoospore sends, out a little bud that soon becomes detached from the mother cell and in its turn produces another cell, and so each new cell goes on multiplying. To this form of the fungus the name of micrococcus has been given, and Hallier considers it the cause of all putrefaction, and calls it putrefactive yeast. According to him both rennet and cheese are highly charged with this yeast. If the micrococcus cell be put in a liquid poor in nitrogen, it produces the common yeast of the housewife, which multiplies as the micro- coccus., and causes the common alcoholic fermentation. This form of the fungus is called cryptococcus. Again, if the peyicillium spores be put in milk which has been boiled to kill all germs in it, we have within two days the same result as when they were sown in a liquid rich in nitrogen, viz. : the zoospores and the microocccus cells, and so soon as this m,icrococcus appears we have souring and curdling of the milk. And when a small quantity of lactic acid has been thus formed a new condition has been assumed by the fungus. The minute m,icrococcus cells enlarge as they do when about to pass into the cryptococcus., but with quite another result, viz., the production of elongated cells, four-sided and often with abrupt square ends, possessing a peculiar luster and multiplying by subdivision into chains of cells, and this form is called arthrococcus, or jointed yeast, and is the ferment which attends the formation of lactic acid in the souring of milk. If the pencillium spores be sown in completely fermented wine or beer, wherein all the sugar has been converted into alcohol, we have another form of yeast which is concerned in the formation of vinegar. Under different circumstances at least six forms of cells can be obtained from the spores of the pencillium crustaceum., and any of these forms, if sown on a substance similar to that which produced the mold, will produce the same mold again. The wonderful rapidity with which these fungi produce new cells is shown by the fact that one single pencillium spore to start with will produce in the space of twenty-four hours, at a low estimate, four hundred million micro- coccus cells. The spores also have a strong hold of life. They can be dried, frozen and heated to any temperature short of 212®, without injury, and will retain their germinating power a long time, in some cases three and a-half years." Enough has been said, I think, to indicate the basis of this theory and the line of argument adopted. Were I familiar with microscopic examinations, and the peculiar habits of fungi or this low order of life, I might be able perhaps to present this matter more clearly ; but from a long and intimate acquaintance with the behavior of milk in its relation to dairy practice, I can judge somewhat as to these views, and they give at least a plausible explanation to many things connected with the action of milk that have been 192 Practical Dairy Husbandry. shrouded in mystery. If the cause of the conversion of sugar of milk into lactic acid is due to fermentation, or the result of the action of living organ- isms on the substance fermented, we should have such organisms here. Hallier and Pasteur, and others, have proved that the souring of milk is accompanied by a species of yeast ferment, different from the ordinary yeast or alcohol ferment ; it is started by the micrococcus yeast, and its continu- ance is attended with the production of regular lactic acid yeast cells or arthrococcus below the surface. In the milk as it comes from the cow we have the micrococcus cells already formed. Hallier proved their presence in sow's milk, and has always found them in the blood, even of healthy animals; hence it is reasonable to suppose they are in all milk. And it appears so long as these cells remain unchanged and do not grow and multiply, the milk Avill not be affected by their presence. Hallier asserts that the action of rennet is due simply to the fact that it, or its extract, contains in an extraordinary measure the micrococcus of the particular fungi which produce the change in milk called coagulation ; that without this micrococcus, or the germs that give rise to it, the change will not take place in the manner that we ordinarily bring it to pass ; and that the reason why if the extract of rennet is boiled a few minutes it will no longer coagulate milk any more than it will turn it sour, is because Ave have killed the fungus ; and that the coagu- lation is attended with, or is the result of a rapid growth and multiplication of the micrococcus ; consequently the curd must contain it, and by still further increase in the ripened cheese, that is saturated and penetrated through and through with it. HEAT AFFECTHiTG RENNETS. "W^hen I first commenced cheese-making, twenty years' ago, I lost a large number of rennets by hanging them near a stove-pipe that was kept very hot. The veils were exposed to this heat for several weeks, and when I came to use them they would not coagulate the milk. Of course I learned a lesson from this ; but I could not fully satisfy myself then why their action was lost ; but upon the theory here suggested it is evident the fungus was destroyed. We know, too, that excessive washing of the stomach when taken from the calf will almost wholly destroy its virtue ; hence the experienced dairyman is careful only to wipe off with a cloth any dirt that may adhere to it. The washing evidently removes a large number of micrococcus cells, thereby accounting for its loss of strength. Now, it appears so long as we cultivate a friendship with the micrococcus, giving it good, pure milk to feed upon and controlling its action by tempera- ture, air and cleanliness it is harmless, and we make it subserve a very useful purpose. But if by any means we allow other fungi, or such as originate in putrid matter, to get possession of the milk, their influence is harmful in the highest degree. Nothing is of more common observation in the practical handling of milk than its especial susceptibility to emanations from putrid Practical Dairy Husbandry. 193 matter, and so readily can these minute germs make their way anywhere and everywhere, that if the air containing them in unusual quantity is inhaled by the cows, their milk may be infected before it leaves the bag. We see then how important it is that the utmost cleanliness be observed with everything that comes in contact with milk. A PARTICLE OF TAINT in the air or on the walls of the dairy, or in the pails or vats, means a quan- tity of fungus germs, often a multitude of them, all ready and most willing to take possession of the milk and to hold it too, when once in possession, so that no process will expel them, except such as will ruin the product which we are manufacturing. From what has been said I think it will be plain that in this single subject of milk alone, there is ample field for investigation, investigation that will tax all our skill, all our talents, and which will afford ample material for study for a long time, and to master which in all its details is no holiday affair. And I must confess after twenty years' practical expe- rience and observation in handling milk, after years of labor in correcting old abuses and errors, and leading our dairymen up to the improved manufacture of to-day, I can still see an immense field for investigation and improvement. And I think there is some inducement for young men to study these questions and perfect themselves in dairy practice. FIEST-CLASS CHEESE-MAKEBS in New York command a salary of from |1,000 to $1,300 for the season of eight months, and the demand for good cheese-makers has been for several years larger than the supply. I am in receipt of many applications from factoi'ies every year for cheese-makers, only a part of which can be filled, and if the business continues to prosper it must continue to offer a fair field of employment for young men who have nothing but their hands and brains with which to make their way in the world. CONDENSED MILK. Within a few years past milk has been put upon the market in a form or condition to keep sound and fresh in flavor for long periods. The importance of the discovery of condensing and preserving milk can scarcely be estimated at the present time, but there can be little doubt, as the article becomes better known among consumers of milk in cities, that it is destined to revo- lutionize the prevailing system of the milk trade. Before proceeding to give some of the processes for condensing milk which have come under my obser- vation, the following brief history of the origin and development of the condensed milk trade, from the London Milk Journal, will be in place. ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OP THE CONDENSED MILK TRADE. Condensed Milk should, with greater propriety, be styled " Preserved Milk," since, although the milk is condensed, the main object sought is, its preservation from decay. For many years there have been upon the market 13 194 Practical Dairy Husbandry. preparations called "Desiccated Milk," "Milk Powders," "Milk Essence," etc. But these were articles prepared from milk, rather than actual milk. They found, however, prior to the introduction of condensed milk proper, consid- erable demand for use at sea and in the colonies, where anything that has the appearance of milk will in the nature of tlie case command more or less sale. Still they did not enter into family consumption to any extent in Eng- land. The desideratum was a preserved milk which should be so pure, wholesome and palatable, as to take the place of crude milk in large cities. To Mr. Gail Borden of New York, should be awarded the credit of first producing preserved milk that filled all these conditions. Indeed, all the brands of good or even fair quality now sold, are prepared substantially under the system originated by him. A man of intense energy and unyielding tenacity of purpose, and an inventor of great ingenuity if not of marked scientific attainments, he added to all this the enthusiasm of a philanthropist who believed that preserved milk would be a boon to humanity. As long ago as 1846 he began his experiments, conducted simultaneously with others whose aim was the preservation of meat. It may be mentioned here that in the London Exhibition of 1851, a gold medal was awarded to Mr. Borden for his " Meat Biscuit." "We believe that he did not at this time exhibit his condensed milk. It was not until about 1856 the he himself arrived at the conviction that he had obtained the quality he had been seeking. Mean- while he had expended energy, time, and quite a fortune in his experiments, for he at length saw that to experiment to advantage a large amount of material, involving much expense, must be used in each instance. At an early stage of his experiments, he decided that milk could not be preserved in a dry form as " desiccated," or " powdered," or " solidified," but must be left in a semi-liquid state. That some preservative agent must be added, and that nothing but water must be eliminated, also became apparent. The result is that condensed milk, as now known to the trade and consumers, consists of milk from which only water has been taken, and to which nothing but sugar has been added, the product being of the consistency of honey, and by dilution in water reconvertible to milk itself, somewhat sweetened. It may be stated in this connection, that all the dry preserved milks require to be dissolved in hot water, while the condensed milk prepared under the Borden system readily dissolves in cold watei". By 1861 Mr. Borden had quite extensively introduced his article, and four or five factories were in operation, capable of producing in the aggregate five thousand cans of one pound each per day. During the War of the Rebellion, large quantities were required for the Northern Armies, the officers and many privates purchasing it of the sutlers, while the hospitals were supplied by the Government and the various Christian and Aid Societies. This gave an impetus to the trade, at the same time that the shipping demand steadily increased. About this time Mr. Borden put upon the market for city use, what he calls Practical Dairy Husbandry. 195 plain" condeksed milk. This is prepared in the same way as the other, except that no sugar is added, and it is not hermetically sealed. It will remain sound from one to two weeks, and it is so convenient, as well as economical, that it is stated that now more than one-third of the milk used in New York City is of this kind. With the end of the war and the dissolution of the armies, the demand for sugared condensed milk fell off, and the manufacturers, who had been stimulated to too great a production, turned their attention to this " plain condensed milk." It would be well if enterprise and capital and philanthro- phy could be enlisted in supplying London with this form of milk, to the extent that New York and other American cities are now su23plied with it. We have no means of estimating the present extent of the manufacture of condensed milk in the United States. For this we must wait for the returns of the census of 1870. However, we know that the capacity of the eight or ten factories on the Hudson, in Connecticut, Pennsylvania and Illinois, is not less than five hundred cases of four dozen pound cans per day, equal to eight million five hundred thousand pounds per annum. It may be stated that one pound of the condensed is equivalent to four or five pouuds of crude milk. THE EXPOETS OF CONDENSED MILK (combined with sugar,) from the United States during the twelve months ending September 30, 1870, amounted to a declared custom house valuation of $200,000, equal in round numbers to £40,000. In the year 1869 it was imported into England from New York to the value of upwards of £16,000. The bulk of the remainder exported from New York was sent to South America, India, Australia, and China, while that sent to London and Liver- pool was mainly held in bond, and sent eventually to the colonies or disposed of as ship's stores. We now pass to the introduction of the manufacture of the Borden kind of condensed milk this side of the Atlantic, and to the development of its manufacture and sale in Europe. In 1865 an American gentleman who had noted the advantages of the article in the American army during the four years of the war, became resident in Switzerland in the capacity of U. S. Consul. Remembering the cheapness and richness of Swiss milk, the cheapness of labor, and other facilities afforded in that country, he conceived the idea of preparing CONDENSED MILK IN SWITZERLAND. The ultimate success of his project has abundantly proved the soundness of his conception. He promoted the "Anglo-Swiss Condensed Milk Co.," the extent of whose present business is set forth in the following extract which we take from the " Grocer " of Dec. 31, 1870. The facts seem to have been compiled from statistics procured at the Board of Trade, which were doubtless obtained from the Report of the British Legation at Berne : " In the Canton of Zug there has of late grown up a new mode of pre- 196 Practical Dairy Husbandry. serving the milk, which, owing to the good pasturage of that locality, is very excellent in quality. In the Commune of Cham the Anglo-Swiss Condensed Milk Co., with a capital of £12,000, employ about sixty operatives in their factory, the tall chimney of which may be seen by the railway traveler passing over the line from Lucerne to Zurich. The number of cows hired for the year is fourteen hundred and forty, and the average amount of condensed milk prepared daily during the three hundred and sixty-five days of the year, as it is necessary to include the Sundays, is one hundred and ten cases of four dozen each of one pound cans ; these equal one million nine hundred and twenty-seven and two hundred cans as the produce of the year. The price of the crude milk is seventeen cents per mass, or about one cent per quart, and the daily cost of the cans made in the establishment amounts to £16 10s. About one-half of the produce is sent direct to London, where one-half of this is consumed, while the remainder goes for ship's stores, is exported to the colonies and sent to the provincial towns of England. Entering as it does into the daily food of the masses no duty should be imposed upon it ; at present it is classed with confectionry and pays accordingly, whereas it is milk ; at all events only the quantum of sugar which it contains should pay duty, and this quantum is uniform and can easily be ascertained. The half of the produce not sent to London is distributed over Germany, and there is some demand from France and Russia. We have been informed that a large shipment was placed in Paris two days before the investment of the city, and balloon letters beg that a large supply may be ready to be sent in so soon as the siege shall terminate. Owing to the demands from the sutlers who supply the armies of Germany and France and the various aid societies for the moment, this company is only able, with great difficulty, to keep an adequate supply for their regular demands. The process of condensation has already been fully described to our readers, who are now asked to patronize not only other Swiss condensed milks but Irish condensed milk also. " It should be mentioned that this company was the first in Europe to introduce condensed milk to family use. Until its advent the article was known as only for ship's stores and for colonial consumption. By extensive and systematic advertising, and through the boundless energy which charac- terizes your business Yankee, this company has received a large demand for ordinary family consumption, not only in England but also in Germany and Russia. In this respect its success may be largely attributed to the fact that Baron Liebig and other authorities on questions of food, supported it heartily from the first, and allowed the patronage of their names for publication. Its success led naturally to the springing up of competitive companies. These Jiave been established at Gruyeres and half-a-dozen other places in Switzer- land, in Bavaria, in Holstein, in Ireland, and in England. But failing to produce a standard quality, and wanting in prestige^ they have nearly all ceased to manufacture." All now known to the London trade are the " Anglo-Swiss " (Milk-maid Practical Dairy Husbandry. 197 brand), Mr. Newman's "Irish Condensed Milk," at Mallow, near Cork, (Harp brand), and the "English Condensed Milk Company," (Lion brand), whose works are at Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. At one time the milk pre- pared at Gruyeres had a good sale in London, but since the outbreak of the war, in July, none of its brand has appeared here. In the spring of 1869 it was announced that the IRISH CONDENSED MILK (Mr. Newman's) was about to be put upon the market. However, it was not introduced until the spring of 1870, but then under powerful patronage. We cannot say definitely what quantity Mr. Newman has prepared, but we have reason to believe that it was about ten thousand cases of four dozen one pound cans each. THE " ENGLISH CONDENSED MILK COMPANY " began to manufacture about the 1st of September, 1870. The editor of the Food Joui'nal recently visited its works at Aylesbury. He seems to have been very much struck by the system under which this Company prepares its condensed milk; he remarks upon the " almost absurd cleanliness " observed. We gather from his statement that this Company makes about twenty cases of four dozen one pound cans six days per week. It seems that, unlike the Swiss Company, they do not work Sundays. This company was registered June, 1870, under the Limited Liability Act, as having a capital of £5,000 only, but it is fair to suppose, considering the extent of its works, that its capital has since been considerably increased. It will doubtless still add to its facilities as the demand increases. We have good authority for stating that neither the Swiss nor the English Company has lately been able to supply the call for their products. On the other hand, the competition between the companies is so eager and keen, and prices thereby have been so reduced that any new company will have to encounter great difficulties before it can establish itself It would be invidious in us to express any opinion as to the comparative merits of the condensed milk ofiered to the public by these several companies. That is the public's own concern ; the best and cheapest will in the end win, as it is the nature of trade. The value of the condensed milk sold in London daily is not less than £150. It is to be found at most shops in London, for sale at tenpence per can, which is cheaper than ordinary crude milk." THE BOEDEN FACTORIES — PROCESS OF CONDENSING. Persons proposing to enter upon the business of condensed milk manu- facture should visit some establishment of the kind, and make themselves familiar with the various parts of the process, obtaining a knowledge of the buildings and machinery in detail. There are several factories in operation on the Borden plan, which is now considered the best, as with proper care a very fine flavored and superior article is manufactured. The principal factories are at Wassaic, N. Y., Livermore Falls, Maine, West Brookfield, Mass., 198 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Winstead, Conn., and at Elgin, Illinois. The Elgin factory is quite noted for its fine product under the management of Mr. C. Chujrch. I have examined this factory and its operations several times, and present here some of the leading features of the establishment, and its process of condensino-. The main building is sixty-five feet by one hundred feet, three stories high. Upon the ground floor there are four rooms. The bath room is forty- five feet by sixty feet. Here the milk is prepared and condensed. The room contains a milk receiver, heating vat and well, vacuum pan and pump. The second room on the ground floor is to the right of the bath room, and here the milk is cooled. It contains three vats for cooling milk, with capacity for cooling fifty cans at a time. Spring water of the natural temperature of fifty degrees at all seasons of the year, is used for cooling the milk. The third room is used for a hall and store room, where sugar and tin are stored. The fourth room is called the meat room. Here meat is prepared for cooking and condensing. It has a meat chopper and force pump, the latter of which is used for elevating rain water from a cistern located about ninety-five feet from the building, and which is used for meat purposes. The boiler and engine rooms are attached to north side of main building. It contains two boilers and an engine of fifteen horse power. The chimney is eighty-five feet high. In the rear of the boilers is the coal house. The cheese manufacturing room is in the rear of the bath room, and is twenty by thirty feet. The receiving room, where milk is delivered, is on the left of bath room. Here the dairymen unload their milk and have their cans washed, steamed and rinsed, so as to be prepared for milk the next day. A department like this should be attached to every cheese or butter factory in the land, as the cans are thoroughly cleaned, and the steaming effectually destroys all germs of ferment. The second story is divided up into a room for preparing extract of beef; tin room, where cans are made for putting up the milk ; sealing room, where the condensed milk is filled into the smaller cans and sealed up, and lastly, a room used for an office. The third story or floor, is used for general store room, and together with the part leading over the boilers, is used for curing cheese. Connected with the establishment is an ice house, thirty- eight by fifty-five feet, and a box shop ; thus rendering the whoTe very com- plete for doing the various kinds of work which belong to the condensing business. When I was last at Elgin, I found the Elgin Condensed Milk Establish- ment putting up large quantities of condensed milk for the Boston and New York markets. This business is yet in its infancy, but the time is not far distant, in my opinion, when a very large trade will be done in this direction. City consumers who are in the habit of using condensed milk tell me they prefer it for ordinary use ; that they are sure of getting a pure, unadulterated article, and that it is cheaper even at a high price than milk ordinarily sold in cities, because of the shameful adulterations practiced by milkmen, and the liability of the milk getting sour ; losses of this kind continually occur- Practical Dairy Husbandry. 199 ing more than make up the difference in price, so that condensed milk is the cheaper of the two. Besides the convenience of always having sweet, pure, milk in one's house, in small cans ready for use, is an important consideration to the city consumer. THE CONDENSING PROCESS at the Elgin Works, is that under the patent of Gail Borden, and all his plans and suggestions are here strictly carried out. At this establishment the very greatest attention is paid to having milk delivered pure, and in perfect *-.^g^der. They have an admirable set of rules as a guide to each patron, and he is required to follow out the instructions to the letter. As these rules will be valuable to every dairyman who handles milk, I shall present them here at length. RULES FOR THE TREATMENT OP MILK. I. The milk shall be drawn from the cow in the most cleanly manner and strained through wire-cloth strainers. II. The milk must be thoroughly cooled immediately after it is drawn from the cow, by placing the can in which it is contained in a tub or vat of cold water, deep enough to come up to the hight of the milk in the can, containing at least three times as much water as the milk to be cooled ; the milk to be occasionally stirred until the animal heat is expelled as below. III. In summer or in spring and fall, when the weather is warm, the bath shall be spring water not over fifty-two degrees temperature (a day or a night after a heavy rain excepted), constantly running or pouring in at the bottom necessary to reduce the tempei-ature of the milk within forty-five minutes, to below fifty-eight degrees ; and if night's milk, to remain in such bath until the time of bringing it to the factory, to below fifty-five degrees. The morning's milk not to exceed sixty degrees when brought to the factory. IV. In winter or in freezing weather, the bath shall be kept at the coolest point (it need not be running spring water) by the addition of ice or snow sufiicient to reduce the temperature of night's milk speedily below fifty degrees. V. In spring and fall weather a medium course will be pursued, so that night's milk shall be cooled within an hour below fifty degrees, and morning's milk below fifty-five degrees. VI. The bath and supply of water shall be so arranged as to let the water flow over the top to carry off the warm water. The can in which the milk is cooled shall be placed in the water immediately after the milking, and shall remain therein until the process of cooling shall be finished. VII. The night's and morning's milk shall be separately cooled before mixing. VIII. No milk shall be kept over to deliver at a subsequent time. IX. The milk shall be delivered on the platform at the factory in Elgin every day except Sunday, 200 Practical Dairy Husbandry. X. Suitable cans of proper dimensions to transport the milk from the dairy to the milk works shall be furnished by the seller and the cans shall be brought full. XI. The Company shall clean and steam the cans at the factory free of charge, but customers shall keep the outside clean. The pails and strainers employed shall be by the seller thoroughly cleaned, scalded in boiling water, and dried morning and night. XII. Immediately before the milk is placed in the cans they shall be thor- oughly rinsed with clean, cold water, and great care shall be taken to keep the cans and milk free from dirt or impurities of any kind. When the cans are not in use they shall be turned down on a rack with the tops off. XIII. All the " strippings," as well as the first part of the milk, shall be brought. No milk will be received from a cow which has not calved at least twelve days, unless by consent of Superintendent or Agent, who may deter- mine its fitness sooner by a sample of the milk. XIV. The cows are not to be fed on turnips or other food which would impart a disagreeable flavor to the milk, nor upon any food which will not produce milk of standard richness. XV. It is further understood and agreed by the parties hereto, that if the Superintendent or Agent of the Company shall have good reason to suspect, either from evidence furnished or from the state of the milk itself, that water has been added, or that it has not been cooled as provided, or that it has been injured by carelessness, he shall have a right to refuse to receive such milk, or any further quantity of milk from the person so violating these directions and stipulations. The outlines of THE CONDENSING PEOCESS are briefly as follows : Each man's milk is examined as it is received, and if all right it is strained and passes to the receiving vat. From this it is con- ducted off, passing through another strainer into the heating cans, each holding about twenty gallons. These cans set in hot water, and the milk is held here until it reaches a temperature of 90°. It then goes through another strainer and into a large wooden vat, at the bottom of which is a coil of copper pipe, through which steam passes, and here it is heated up to near the boiling point. Then the best quality of white granulated sugar is added in the proportion of one and a-quarter pounds of sugar to the gallon of milk, when it is drawn into vacuum pan having a capacity of receiving three thousand quarts at a time. This pan is a copper cylinder with a coil of copper pipe inside and jacket underside also for steam. The milk remains in the vacuum pan subjected to steam for about three hours, losing about seven- ty-five per cent, of its water, when it is drawn off into cans holding forty quarts each. The cans are then set in a large vat containing cold water, the water being of a hight equal to the milk in the cans, where it is stirred until the temperature of the condensed milk is reduced to a little below 70°. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 201 It is then emptied into large drawing cans with faucets, and from them drawn into small cans holding a pound each, immediately soldered to exclude the air, and when properly labeled is ready for the market. There are TWO KINDS OF CONDENSED MILK, that containing sugar as above described, and simply the plain milk without the addition of the sugar. The wholesale price received at this factory for their milk is $3.50 for a dozen cans, or a trifle over twenty-nine cents per pound. It will be seen that four pounds of fresh milk as drawn from the cow, or about two quarts by measm-e, when condensed by taking out seventy- five per cent, of water, will make one pound condensed milk, and therefore a little more than fourteen and a-half cents per quart is realized for it. I am not prepared to give the expense of manufacturing, but if four and a-half cents per quart be taken to cover all expenses and this is doubtless too large an estimate — we have the milk worth ten cents per quart to the producer. THE CONDENSED MILK is about the consistency of thick sirup, has a pleasant taste, and when used for tea or coffee is not to be distinguished from pure, fresh country milk. From what I saw of this establishment, and from a test of its products, I was convinced of its great benefits to all parties concerned, and could not but wish that more establishments of the kind were in operation throughout the country. The factory at Elgin is managed by a company, and it was paying farmers in the winter nineteen cents per gallon for milk. PEOYOSt's CONDENSING FACTORY. In 1865 I was at the Provost Condensing Works, in Middletown, Orange Co., N". Y. The establishment was then under the management of Dr. C. E. Crane, a very intelligent gentleman, who went over the premises with me and explained the various apparatuses for manipulating the milk. The process of evaporation here is different from that of Borden's, and was claimed to take less heat. We give briefly a description of the process. Milk is reduced and prepared in two forms at the factory. That which is run off without the addition of sugar is called condensed milk, and when sugar is used, concentrated milk. During the sunimer about three thousand six hundred quarts per day are received at the factory. The milk is weighed and tested when received, and emptied into long pails holding twenty quarts, similar to the pails used at the butter factories for cooling the milk. About eighteen quarts are put in each pail, and after the milk has been cooled to 60° in order to divest it of animal heat and expel the ammoniacal gas, the pails are immediately plunged into a vat of water heated to a temperature of 185° to 190°. Refined loaf sugar is added at this stage at the rate of four pounds for each pail or can. It is kept in the vat of heated water about thirty minutes, when it is poured into an immense pan having fifty corrugations which sets over water and upon a 202 Practical Dairy Husbandry. furnace in the adjoining room. Here are arranged two large fans, directly over the milk, which are kept in motion by machinery, the temperature of the milk while evaporation is going on being 160°. The fans carry off the water, forcing it through ventilators, out of the building, as fast as it is formed into vapor. It takes about seven hours to condense the milk, seventy- five per cent, of its bulk in water being driven off. The faucets at each end of the pan are then opened and the condensed fluid passes through fine wire strainers or sieves into large cans. These cans, when filled are rolled away OP£N rARD 33FT. CAKHHTER mop. EVAPORAT/NGROOM CtJ/BEKSlHe Pi,NS L CUOLER 6X12 FT. Ground Plan or Provost's Condensed Milk Factory. to the tables where their contents are drawn off into small tin cans holding a pound each, and are immediately sealed up. The milk when condensed has the consistency of thick molasses, and is then sold at from twenty-five to forty cents per pound, according to the price of milk in the New York markets. The cans are packed in barrels with saw-dust, and are thus shipped to the markets — the milk being used in the navy and in hospitals, and in warm climates. Dr. CRAisrE informed me that milk thus prepared will keep good for years without the least trouble He opened cans in my presence that contained the preparation a year old, and I found it of good flavor and apparently not injured by age. It had a rich, creamy taste, rather sweet, with a flavor of boiled milk, but by no means unpleasant. The price paid for milk at the factory during the summer had ranged from four to five and a-half cents 23er quart. In winter the price paid was seven and a-half cents per quart. EXPORTS FKOM NEW YORK. The exports of condensed milk from New York alone in 1869 amounted to $79,652, of which England took $21,770; Austria $9,494 ; the States of Columbia $9,176 ; China, $8,166 ; Brazil $3,087, and Cuba $3,093. USE AND MANAGEMENT OF MILK AS A DIET FOR INFANTS AND CHILDREN. The following paper by Dr. Alfred Wiltshire, M.R.C.P., of London, Physician to the British Lying-in Hospital, and late Medical Inspector to H. M. Privy Council, is a brief but valuable treatise upon this important subject : " It may with truth be said that the value of milk as a food for infants and young children is incalculable. Not only is it the pabulum which thrifty nature provides for the nourishment of the young of the highest order of animals, the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 203 mammalia, among which man is the chief, but it is the single article of diet upon which alone life can be sustained, and the body kept in perfect health and vigor. Most people know something of this, yet seldom think how variable a fluid milk may be or become according to the source whence it is derived or its subsequent treatment. Few, among the millions who daily use milk in their ordinary diet, reflect that the milk of each species of animal possesses peculiar and distinctive characters specially fitting it for the nourish- ment of the young of the same species, and fewer still that the milk of different individuals of a given species varies considerably ; nay, more, that the milk of the same individual may vary materially at different hours of the day, or be changed by circumstances under which it is secreted. Thus, the state of health, the kind of food, passion or emotion may greatly modify the constitution of the fluid for better or worse, though the changes thus induced be, especially in the case of passion or emotion, so subtle as to elude detection by ordinary methods of examination, and only betray themselves by their effects when consumed as food. It is obvious then that when we speak of milk we speak of a fluid which may differ essentially, as it is obtained from the cow, the goat, the ass or the mare, not to speak of the alterations in its composition which may be induced in individuals by the conditions just mentioned. "Without dealing with the subtle changes of which milk is capable, and to which woman's milk is more liable than that of any other animal, owing to her great susceptibility to emotion, or indeed without considering human milk at all, except by reference to it as a standard, I desire to say a few words upon the use and management of cows', goats' and asses' milk as food for infants and children, but chiefly of cows' milk, that being practically the most readily obtainable, if not the best. The foregoing remarks are made with the view of impressing upon the non-professional reader, the fact that there are important differences in the chemical and physical constitution of milks, and that the milk of any animal may not be indifferently taken, in the belief that being milk it is all one, whether it be yielded by a cow or a goat, an ass or mare. As regards results, scarcely any of us live entirely without milk ; either as a luxury or as a necessary of life, nearly all partake of it. But there is a great host of little ones, to whom indeed it is a necessary of life, to whom it is one of the very first conditions of existence, to whom it is meat and drink. As the constitutional vigor and health of adults are largely influenced by the conditions of their existence as children, it becomes import- ant that children, who in their turn become men and women, should be reared in the healthiest manner possible, so as to secure for them that vigor which, in after life, is so essential to their own well-being and that of the community of which they are members. We say advisedly that this cannot be done, that is, good sound health cannot be secured without milk — good milk. And this valuable article should be properly used if we would get from it all the benefits it undoubtedly will afford if rightly used and treated. It is upon 204 Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. this part of the subject I would particularly dwell : — the proper use and management of milk as a diet for infants and children. "It is hoped that it will not be requisite to insist upon scrupulous cleanliness in the treatment of milk. Taint of any kind, and acidity, should be looked upon as destroyers of its good properties. Milk, fresh, sweet and pure, is a most wholesome diet ; putrefying, it is harmful. " Before going further, it will, perhaps, be well very briefly to consider the chief characteristics of woman's milk, and to compare them with cow's milk. This will enable us to see the difference between the two ; and we shall then be in a position to say how cow's milk may be made more nearly to resemble human milk, and thus fitter for the consumption of children. Clearly this is a matter of some importance. The chief thing to be borne in mind about cow's milk is, that it is much richer in cheesy matter than mother's milk. The value of this knowledge will be shown presently. It is also somewhat richer in butter, and decidedly richer in salts. On the other hand, mother's milk is richer in sugar. It may be said with some truth, that cow's milk is " stronger " than mother's milk, for one pint of the former will contain more solid matter than a like quantity of the latter. To bring cow's milk to a condition resembling mother's milk, as regards the cheesy element, it is necessary to dilute it with water (I much prefer lime water as a rule) in the proportion of a third or a fourth of water, to two-thirds or three-fourths of milk. But then the resulting mixture will not be rich enough in sugar and fat, and to remedy this a little sugar of milk (which is now easily procurable) and some cream should be added. Lump sugar should be very sparingly used in the food of children ; it is much abused in this respect. Better not use sugar at all than use too much. Sugar of milk should only be used to the extent of slightly sweetening the prepared milk. To repeat, two-thirds or three-fourths pure, new cow's milk mixed with a third or fourth of water (the proportion may be varied according to the age, requirements or peculiari- ties of the child ; very young children, for instance, often thriving best on half and half), to every half pint of which two teaspoonsful to a tablespoonful of fresh cream and a little sugar of milk are added, will form a fluid resembling, as nearly as may be, mother's milk. If cream cannot be procured, a few drops of sweet olive oil Avill be a good substitute. I make mention of this, as I consider fat to be of the highest importance to children. Now, having brought cow's milk into a condition as nearly as possible resembling mother's milk as regards proportioii of ingredients, we may go a step further and endeavor to improve it as regards the quality of one of its principal ingre- dients, viz., the curd or cheesy element. The curd of cow's milk is much denser and therefore far less digestible than that of mother's milk. This is a fact of great practical importance. How can it best be obviated ? Before stating this I would refer, en passant, to a matter upon which much ignorance prevails. It is commonly believed that if a child brings up curdled milk it is a sign that it does not agree with it. The truth is, that it would not agree Practical Dairy Husbandry. 205 if it did not curdle after its reception into the stomach, for curdling by the gastric juice (an acid fluid secreted by the stomach, and endowed with pecu- liar properties) is one of the first and most important acts of digestion. The vomiting may be wrong, but the curdling is not, for as just stated, the first act in the digestion of milk is the coagulation of its curd. The curd formed from mother's milk is very light and delicate ; it is feathery, or like snow flakes, and thus permits of easier digestion. If a child fed upon cow's milk vomits lumps of curd, there must be something wrong, but the bringing up of a little curdled milk need not generally be taken as indicative of mischief. How then can we bring the dense curd of cow's milk into the flocculent condition observed in mother's milk ? My own observation and experience lead me to believe that this can best be done by diluting the milk with lime- water. Usually I advise the substitution of lime-water for the third or fourth part of water alluded to, and I have witnessed the best results ensue upon the adoption of this plan. If plain water be not wholly replaced by lime- , water, I always direct that a portion of it shall be. I believe I have the strongest grounds for this recommendation. In the first place, as already stated, lime-water renders the curd of cow's milk lighter and more digestible ; secondly, it helps to neutralize acidity, to which hand-fed children are espe- cialy exposed ; thirdly, it helps children to form teeth, often backward and fourthly, it is an excellent remedy against that bane of childhood, rickets, in which too conimon disease there is, as is well known, a deficiency of lime in the bony tissues, owing to defective assimilation of lime salts, the supply of which, moreover, is frequently inadequate. Lime-water, then, is a valuable addition to the milk diet of children, on several grounds. The addition of a small quantity of well prepared baked or boiled flour ; Chapman's entire wheat flour ; Liebig's food, or Robb's biscuit, may also tend to keep the curd from clotting into large, hard masses, and in this way such articles may prove useful ; but I am persuaded, that as a rule, nothing but milk diluted with water, or lime-water, as directed, should be given to infants for the first six months after their existence. " There is a very strong reason why starchy matters, such as arrowroot, etc., which can scarcely be called food, should not be given in eaiiy infancy. It is this : for about the first three months of life, infants do not secrete saliva, and unless starchy matters are mixed with saliva, they cannot contrib- ute any nourishment to the body ; on the contrary they become active sources of acidity. Farinaceous foods are, as a rule, more or less injurious on this account, and milk is often unjustly stigmatized as bad, owing to the admix- ture with it of some kind of starchy material, which is apt to excite intestinal disturbance in young children. Milk should not be blamed when used under such conditions ; to try it fairly it should be used as already pointed out. Some children have an aversion to milk, and for them various diets may be devised. It is not ray intention to speak of such diets here ; but I would remark that children who take milk reluctantly, or with indifierence, may be 206 Practical Dairy Husbandry. induced to take it more kindly by the addition of a very little pure cocoa or chocolate. Much of the trash sold as cocoa consists of a compound contain- ing starch, etc., and should accordingly be carefully avoided. Van Houten's Schweitzer's or Cadbuey's, are excellent. Or a little flavoring by vanilla, cinnamon, carraways, or a very fcAV drops of brandy or rum, will occasionally render milk extremely palatable to children. All these require to be carefully and sparingly used, especially the latter. A word or two further may be said upon the treatment of milk. It should never be boiled ; this renders it less digestible; indeed, it should not be more than slightly warmed, and ought never to be kept long in that con- dition, as fermentation is favored by warmth. It should never be exposed to objectional efiluvia or odors. The feeding-bottles and appurtenances, and all receptacles for milk, should be kept scrupulously clean ; the slightest acidity from such sources tainting the whole fluid, and thus rendering it hurtful. It need hardly be said that pure milk, the produce of healthy animals, should alone be used. The milk of asses, when procurable, is excellent. Goat's milk is useful, but is perhaps a little strong in curd, and may require to be treated accordingly. THE USE OF SKIMMED MILK AS AN EXCLUSIVB DIET IK DISEASE. In regard to the value of milk as a curative agent in disease, the Medical Times, Philadelpliia, has the following interesting statement from Dr. S. W. Mitchell. He says :— " My design in this and the brief papers with which I hope to follow it, is to give my own experience in the use of skimmed milk as an alterative diet in certain cases of disease. After reading Carel's paper some years ago, I began to employ this very useful method of treatment, and since then have found repeated reason to congratulate myself upon the success which, in my hands, it has attained whenever the cases for its use were selected with discretion. In dealing with the subject I shall first make some general remarks upon the mode of using milk and upon the effects observed in nearly all cases. Next, I shall relate histories of its employment in gastric disorders, in diarrhea, in malarious and renal dropsies, and finally in nervous maladies. I hope to conclude with a study of the influence of the milk cure upon the secretions and excretions. In following this path I shall in some cases differ from Dr. Carel ; but in general my views will be found to corre- spond with those held by this physician. The milk is to be used as free as possible from cream ; and if, as is generally the case in our cities, there is an abundance of ice to be had, I prefer to let the milk stand in a well-chilled refrigerator for twenty-four hours. It should then be carefully skimmed, after which it is fit for use. As Carel remarks, the quality of the milk goes for something, and perhaps too the surroundings, since I have found persons who could not bear the treatment in a city, while in the country they throve under it admirably. As to temperature, it may be given warm, not hot or cold, as suits the taste. In rare cases, where at first it caused nausea, I have Practical Dairy Husbandry, 207 had to use it with more or less lime-water during the first few days. In other instances the repugnance to its taste is a difficulty, and this may be overcome by faintly flavoring it with a few drops of coffee or with caramel. Other patients prefer to add to it a little salt ; but as a rule I desire to give the milk alone as soon as possible. " Quantity. — The patient takes, to begin with, one or two tablespoonsful on rising, and every two hours during the day. When I followed Caeel's rule of giving at once half-a-tumbler to a tumblerful (two to six ounces) four times daily, I found that few patients would bear it without nausea and early disgust. I increase each dose by a tablespoonful every day — say three the second day and four the third day. Thus, if the patient begins at eight A.M. he takes up to ten P.M. eight doses, that is to say about sixteen ounces. Now, this is the lower limit ; nor have I been able in the cases of females or delicate men to give it more largely at first. Indeed, few women of sickly or seden- tary habits are able to exceed at any time a pint and a-half daily. After the fourth day it is better to separate the doses as you increase their amount, until they are taken at four equal intervals daily, and the maximum quantity is attained. This varies greatly. I had one patient, a railroad contractor, who, living an out-door life of the most active kind, took daily for more than a year fourteen tumblers of skimmed milk, and this alone. Two quarts a day is the limit with most of my patients. I suspect, from Caeel's account, the Russian patients must have more hardy stomachs. " Where people are well enough to live afoot I have had little difficulty in the use of milk ; but in very feeble persons — and I have often given to such — I have found it absolutely necessary to use with it for a few days, brandy or whisky, and even beef soup, all of which I expect to abandon as soon as the patient can take milk enough to sustain his strength. It is needless to say that for a patient to take steadily a diet of skimmed milk alone, requires the utmost fortitude and all the moral aid which the physician can give. Carel thinks the first week the most difficult one, and this is usually the case; but sometimes the whole period of milk use is one long struggle, even after we begin to allow a partial use of other diet. It is not in these cases hunger, but simply the craving for other food which tortures the patients. Most of them avoid the sight of food in order to control their desires, and in one case I was much amused by a gentleman who said to me in a guilty tone, ' Indeed Doctor, but I could not help it ; I stole an egg this morning.' " Dr. Carel begins to alter the diet of milk after two or three weeks. I prefer to reach the latter limit before giving other food, but this, after all, is a matter for separate decision in individual cases. My own rule, founded on considerable experience, is this: Dating from the time when the patient begins to take the milk alone, I wish three weeks to elapse before anything be used save milk. After the first week of the period I direct that the milk be taken in just as large amount as the person desires, but not allowing it to fall helow a limit lohich for tne is determined in each case hy his ceasing to 208 Practical Dairy Husbandry. lose weight. Twenty-one days of absolute milk diet having passed, with such exception as I shall presently mention, I now give a thin slice of stale white bread thrice a day. After another week I allow rice once a day — about two tablespoonsful — or a little arrowroot, or both, as circumstances may dictate. At the fifth week I give a chop once a day, and then in a day or two another at breakfast ; and after the sixth -week I expect to return gradually to a diet which should still consist largely of milk for some months. In children I sometimes use raw in place of cooked meat for a time, but grown people will rarely take it, although very often they are willing to take raw soup (Liebig's.) THE SYMPTOMS DEVELOPED under the use of milk are very interesting, and not all of them are told by Cakel. In no case have I seen any one gain weight duriug the first few days ; but where the treatment succeeds, the patient soon ceases to lose, and then slowly gains in weight. This is usually the case in severe gastric and intes- tinal cases ; but in some cases the loss of weight continues even after they are taking an amount of milk usually sufiicient to sustain the body in an equilibrium. This is remarkably the case in very fat persons, who, as every one knows, are quite commonly small eaters. Taking three cases of dyspepsia at random (all women) I find this record : The first lost in two weeks fourteen pounds of a weight of one hundred and thirty-one ; the second lost eighteen pounds of a weight of one hundred and twenty ; and the third eleven pounds of a weight of one hundred and seventeen, her total weight at the start. In another case where the quantity of milk taken was two quarts daily, and the exercise small, the man lost weight steadily up to the time that I began to give bread, when the gain was immediate and speedy (case diarrhea.) Mrs. S., aged forty-seven, weight one hundred and ninety-four pounds, inactive,- sallow, feeble, dyspeptic, and a very small eater, lost in four weeks thirty pounds, with general gain in strength and vigor. THE STATE OF THE SKIN has seemed to improve in all cases of chronic, gastric, or intestinal disease, but in others there has been no change. The urine, in a few cases is somewhat annoying during the first week, the patient having frequent calls ; but com- monly no such complaint is made, although in certain dropsies I have found the milk to act strictly as a diuretic. The changes in the urine we shall have occasion to study in future. " The tongue is apt to become furred, and be white and rough two or three weeks, — in some cases so long as milk is taken ; but so far is this from representing a disturbed state of stomach, that the dyspeptic after a few days usually finds himself in the enjoyment of an amount of digestive comfort long a stranger to his viscera. The stools begin to show the milk tint— a yellowish or salmon hue — after forty-eight hours, and when the milk disagrees they are apt to be loose, while usually they are intensely tough and constipa- ted. This feature of the use of skimmed milk is at times most obstinate and Practical Dairy Husbandry, 209 annoying. After some weeks of creamless milk, I have often resorted, in such cases, to unskimmed milk, and with good effect ; but it is quite clear that even this, in adults, may constipate, as it never does in the child. Caeel says that a little coffee in the morning is often sufficient to relieve the bowels ; and where a small cup of pure coffee can be used, this is true. I give it without sugar. Later in the treatment, fruit, fresh or stewed, may be used ; but as a rule, I find that a little Saratoga water on rising, and a half grain of aloes, with a grain of ginger at night, will answer ; or if these do not, then an enema is required. In some cases, this symptom is simj)ly unconquerable by any constant treatment, and twice it has forced me to abandon the milk. In another case — a lady who undertook the milk cure unassisted — I was sent for on account of violent rectal and sciatic pain which followed every effort at defecation. She said she had a daily stool, which was true, but the amount passed was trifling, and her rectum was packed, with feces so tough as utterly to defy injections, until I had mechanically broken up the mass. The pulse is usually quickened, until the milk diet is large enough to sustain the weight unchanged, when it falls again. In certain cases of hypertrophied left ventri- cle with palpitation of the heart, the immediate effect is to lower the pulse and quiet the heart. The nervous system is not strikingly affected by milk. I have once only, in a very stout and hysterical lady, seen vertigo and faint- ness follow its use, and forbid its continuance ; but as a rule, it is in such persons soothing alone. Caeel makes no mention of one symptom of which many have spoken to me : this is an intense sleepiness. It is common, but not universal, and soon passes away. " In this brief sketch I have told plainly my own experience, and this I shall illustrate by cases— only some few of which I shall relate in detail. In no diseases has the value of milk-treatment been more clear than in certain instances of stomachal disorders. It is needless to add that I have quoted here only such instances as had proved rebellious to all ordinary methods. Y. C, aged fourteen, a frail and pallid lad, employed as errand boy in a sugar refinery, where he had contracted the habit of continually eating sugar. After some weeks he began to have a sick stomach, and at length incessant vomiting, for which a variety of treatment was employed, without relief Finally it was found that he was able to keep .down small quantities of milk diluted with equal parts' of lime-water. The amounts taken were still too small to sustain life, and he wasted rapidly. At this time he fell under my care, and was at once put upon an exclusive diet of skimmed milk, taking two tablespoonsful every two hours. The vomiting ceased at once, and as the milk was increased in amount and the interval lengthened, he began in a week to gain weight. In two weeks he was doing well on a quart a day, and on the twenty-first day he began to take bread. At the fourth week a chop was added, and at the fifth week he went to the country. At this time he was gaining weight and color. He felt none of the gastric distress after the third day, but the sleepiness was well marked for two weeks. At the 14 210 Practical Dairy Husbandry. second week a slight return of emesis obliged him to lessen the dose for a few days. In him, as in most young people, the constipation was readily overcome by a rhubarb pill at bed time. " Miss C, aged fifty-two. Has had for a year, attacks of violent pain, which are referred to the pit of the stomach, or rarely lower. They had no relation to her meals, but were easily brought on by fatigue. The natural ending of these spells seemed to be in slight emesis, and for a long time the very least vomiting gave instant relief, which however ceased to be the case after a year, when the attacks had become as frequent as two to four a week. The most careful research discovered no gall stones in the stools, and only once was there bile in the urine. The matter vomited was rarely the food, but only thin mucus, not acid, and containing no sarcinae or other substance which cast any light on the case. Alkalies, tonics — for she was very pale and feeble — stimulants, acids, pepsin, arsenic, and bismuth, were used in vain. Hypodermic injections, and opiates internally, alike failed. In this therapeu- tic despair — even change of air having produced no good result — I advised the use of milk treatment ; and as her case illustrates alike the value and the difficulties of this plan of diet, I conceive it to be very instructive. At this time her attacks were of almost daily occurence. The milk was given cautiously — a tablespoonful eyery two hours — for two days, when it was doubled. On the fourth day she took four tablespoonsful at each dose, and at the same intervals, but was manifestly not losing weight, although weak. A little whisky added thrice a day bridged over this trouble, and was aban- doned on the seventh day. Up to this time she had no attack, nor had she any up to the beginning of the fourth week, when the milk was given up. The reason for this was twofold. Her disgust at the diet was unconquerable ; nor was I able by slight changes to secure good continued results. More complete alteration of diet brought back the attacks. I yet believe that these difficulties might have been overcome, but in her the milk caused a constipa- tion so invincible that not even the most powerful purgatives or enemas were of any avail. Needless to say that, from the promise of so much good from milk, no means were left unused to enable her to take it, but all alike failed us, and I was forced in this case to confess myself beaten. Mechanical means were finally needed every few days to break up the tough rectal accumulations, and so the milk was given up. The case was probably gas- trodynia. " Somewhat like it in certain respects, was the history of a man who was sent to me from Elkton, Maryland, by my friend Dr. Ellis. About nine months before I saw him he began to have increasingly severe attacks of pain, which came pn an hour or two after meals, and lasted nearly up to the next meal. The pain was sharp and was referred to the epigastric region and to the left side below the ribs. There was a good deal of wind, occasional acid stomach, and no tenderness anywhere ; bowels regular, urine high-colored, but free from albumen and depositing urates abundantly. He had been Practical Dairy Husbandry. 211 skillfully treated with a variety of drugs, but with no relief. On explaining to him the milk-diet, he professed himself able to carry it out. About two months later he returned to show himself, when I learned that he had lived on milk alone during the whole of this time, with immediate, enduring and absolute relief from all his pains. He was then directed how to return to his usual diet. Several months afterwards I learned that he was still living partly on milk, and. was well and vigorous. "Mrs. B., widow, aged thirty-three, had for yet^rs suffered from constant acid dysjsepsia, for which she had been treated by several physicians, both at home and abroad. Her only relief consisted in the most careful choice of a minimum amount of food, and in the constant use of bismuth. She weighed one hundred and eighteen pounds and was sallow and disfigured by an ecze- matous eruption. During the first day of the milk cure she only took one tablespoonful every two hours, and after this it Avas increased as I have described. In a week she was taking a little under a quart daily, and her weight was down to one hundred and fourteen pounds. A little whisky was now added, and left off at the fifteenth day, when she was taking over two quarts of milk. The weight continued nearly up to the end of the third week, when she declared that even the perfect ease obtained as eai'ly as the third day of the treatment was scarcely a compensation for the horrors of this exclusive diet. A little persuasion, however, enabled me to continue its use another week, when I began to give stale bread, and in a few days later venison. Her gain in weight from this time was strangely rapid, and five weeks and a-half after we began, the milk brought her up to one hundred and twenty-nine pounds, with a perfectly clear and spotless skin. The aloes pill and enema answered throughout to control her bowels. It is now nearly a year since this time, but despite her final abandonment of milk she retains alike her good looks and comfort in digestion, having had in this time only one relapse which yielded to a brief return to the diet. I was very much struck in another case, with the same remarkable improvement in the clear- ness and beauty of the skin which I have just mentioned. " Miss L., a young lady aged twenty, of remarkable personal attractions, was seized with a violent attack of inflammation of the ileo-cascal region, with the common accompaniments of intense pain, swelling, tenderness and fecal accumulation, with violent vomiting. After a week or ten days the bowels were moved and the attack subsided. The experience of several such illnesses finally taught me that the local use of ice over the diseased region, chloral internally, and no purgatives for a week, gave the best and shortest curative result ; but by this time the attacks recurred so easily and her general health had so suffered as to make some permanent relief imperative. At this period all the usual alteratives had failed to effect this end, and she was wasted, thin, and excessively sallow, with dark stains beneath the eyes. During three weeks only she took the milk, and I was then obliged by her urgency to add a chop daily. The effect of this diet was both to me and to her friends 212 Practical Dairy Husbandry. astonishing, in the sudden gain of weight, and in the return of clear and delicate skin tints. No less marked were the ease of digestion, previously much impaired, and the total disappearance of the hardening about the ascending colon. The bowels, somewhat to my surprise, were easily managed by a little rlmbarb twice a day. In this case I did not hope for permanent relief save by six months of milk treatment. So soon, however, as she felt well I found it impossible to secure a continuance of its use, so that after some months I was not surprised to see her in a new attack. The case has value chiefly as showing that, with a tendency to a constipative disease, milk may still be used, and is illustrative of the profound change which milk some- times effects in the nutritive system. The above cases, selected for various reasons, are merely representative of difficulties or successes, and it would be quite possible for me to multiply either class. Suffice it to say that in old and unmanageable cases of dyspepsia, and in neuralgic disorders related to the gastro-intestinal viscera, the treatment by milk has been sometimes a reliable resource when without it I must have been in therapeutic despair." ASSOCIATED DAIRimG-ITS RISE, PROCxRESS, &;C. I HATE said that the dairy has become an important branch of national industry, that it is rapidly spreading over new fields, and is engaging the attention of farmers in the western, northwestern and middle States, wherever the lands are adapted to grazing, and there are springs and streams of living water. It is true, there are extensive plains at the south and southwest where the business of dairying cannot be carried on, but broad belts and isolated patches of land are scattered over our vast domain, well adapted to grazing, and such lands, when taken in the aggregate, cover a wide extent of territory. There are two causes that have been operating the past few years to stimulate the development of this branch of industry, and have brought it to assume proportions that give it a distinctive feature of nationality. The first is a lai'ge and increasing foreign demand for dairy products ; the second is the American system of "Associated Dairies," now brought to such wonderful perfection that the business can be readily introduced into new sections with all the ease and certainty of success in producing the qualities attained in old dairy districts. The foreign demand for cheese, it is believed, will be permanent, and exportations from year to year must largely increase, since the finest Ameri- can grades are acknowledged to be equal to the best manufactured abroad. This fact alone gives confidence to those about entering upon the business of dairy farming — that it will be remunerative and enduring. In addition, as the texture and flaA^or of cheese have been improved, a large home demand has sprung up, which requires large quantities to meet its wants. It is believed by many that the home demand, for years to come, will more than keep pace with increased production ; and home sales for the past few years would seem to prove that this view is not without foundation. With a constantly increasing home trade and a reliable market abroad, no branch of fai'ming to-day oflTers prospects of better or more permanent remuneration than the dairy, COMMElSrCEMElirT OF CHEESE DAIEYING AS A SPECIALTY ITS HISTORY, ETC. The history of Ameincan Cheese Dairying has never been written, and perhaps a brief glance at its rise and progress will not be out of place. 214 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Cheese making began in Herkimer county, New York, more than sixty years ago. For upwai-ds of twenty years its progress was slow, and the business was deemed hazardous by the majority of farmers, who believed that over-production was to be the result of those making a venture upon this specialty. The fact, however, gradually became apparent that the cheese makers were rapidly bettering their condition, and outstripping in wealth those who were engaged in grain raising and a mixed husbandry. About the year 1830 dairying became pretty general in the towns of Herki- mer county north of the Mohawk, and some years later spread through the southern district of the county, gradually extending into Oneida and adjoin- ing counties. Up to this period and for several years later, little or no cheese was shipped to Europe. It was not considered fit for market till fall or winter. It was packed in rough casks and peddled in the home market at from five to eight cents per pound. All the operations of the dairy were rude and undeveloped ; the herds were milked in the open yard ; the curds were worked in tubs and pressed in log presses. Everything was done by guess, and there was no order, no system and no science in conducting opera- tions. In 1840 the value of the dairy products of NewTork — butter, cheese and milk — was estimated by the United States census returns at $10,496,021, and in all the States at $33,787,008. Some idea of the comparative increase will be found when it is known that the value of the butter products of New York alone, in 1865, was more than $60,000,000. From 1840 to 1850 cheese began to be shipped abroad, the first shipments being inaugurated under the auspices of Herkimer county dealers. In 1848 — '49 the exports of American cheese to Great Britain were 15,386,836 pounds. Much of the cheese manufactured this year was of poor quality, and British shippers claimed to have sustained heavy losses. There was a more moderate demand the following year, and prices fell off a penny a pound, varying from fair to strictly j^rime, from six to six and a-quarter cents for Ohio, and six to six and three-quarters for New York State. The exports in 1849 — '50 were 12,000,000 pounds, and continued to vary, without important increase, for several years. From September, 1858, to September, 1859, the exports of cheese to Great Britain and Ireland were only two thousand five hundred and ninety-nine tons, and in the following year, for the same corresponding period, they were increased to seven thousand five hundred and forty-two tons. During the early part of the year 1860, Samuel Peket of New York city, a native of Herkimer, and one of the earliest operators in the cheese trade, endeavored to control the market, purchasing the great bulk of cheese manufactured in the coimtry. He was reputed to be wealthy, and had for years enjoyed the confidence of dairymen, and being liberal in his dealings he was enabled to secure the dairies by contract, making his purchases at from nine to ten cents per pound. Then commenced the exportation of American Practical Dairy Husbandry. 215 cheese on a scale hitlierto unknown in the history of the trade ; and to him belongs the credit of opening up a foreign market for this " class of goods." The exportation of cheese from New York to Europe during 1860 was 23,252,000 pounds, which Avas increased on the following year to 40,041,000 pounds. About this time (1860) the associated dairy system began to attract attention. Several factories were in operation in Oneida county, and were turning out a superior article of cheese. The system had been first inaugiirated by Jesse Williams, a farmer living near Rome, in that county, and was suggested from mere accidental circumstances. Mr. Williams was an expe- rienced and skillful cheese-maker, and at a time when the bulk of American cheese was poor. His dairy, therefore, enjoyed a high reputation, and was eagerly sought for by dealers. In the spring of 1851 one of his sons having married, entered upon farming on his own account, and the father contracted the cheese made on both farms at seven cents per pound, a figure considerably higher than was being offered for other dairies in that vicinity. When the contract was made known to the son he expressed great doubt as to whether he should be able to manufacture the character of cheese that would be acceptable under the contract. He had never taken charge of the manufac- ture of cheese while at home, and never having given the subject that close attention which it necessarily requires, he felt that his success in coming up to the required standard would be a mere matter of chance. His father therefore proposed coming daily upon the farm and giving the cheese-making a portion of his immediate supervision. But this would be very inconvenient, and while devising the means to meet the difficulties and secure the benefits of the contract, which was inore than ordinarily good, the idea was suggested that the son should deliver the milk from his herd daily at the father's milk- house. From this thought sprang the idea of uniting the milk from several neighboring dairies and manufacturing it at one place. Buildings were speedily erected and fitted up with apparatus, which, proving a success, thus gave birth to the associated system of dairying now widely extended through- out the Northern States. The system of associated dairies, during the last eight years, has been carried into the New England States and into the Canadas. It is largely adopted in Ohio, and has obtained a foothold in Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, and other States. It is known abroad as the " American System of Dairying," and its peculiarities are so well adapted to the genius of our people as to give it a distinctive character of nationality. PROGRESS OF THE EACTOKY SYSTEM IN" THE STATE OF KEW YORK, AND CAPITAL INVESTED IN THE BUSINESS UP TO 1866. The number of cheese factories in the State of New York at the com- mencement of the season of 1866, was more than five hundred. The following table will show the number of factories erected in the State each year from 1850 to 1866: 216 Practical Dairy Husbandry. These five hundred factories would probably average four hundred cows each, making a total of two hundred thousand cows, which, at the low cash value of $40 each, give an aggregate of $8,000,000. The lands employed in associated dairying in New York in 1866 would not be less than a million of acres, which, at an average of $40 an acre, would amount to 140,000,000. NO. OF FAC- TORIES. COST OF BUILDINGS AND APPARATUS. PERSONS EMPLOYED. AVERAGE NO. OF COWS. FOUNDS OF MILK USED. POUNDS OT MAiES. FEMALES. CHEESE MADE. Allegany Broome Cattaraugus 6 1 3 1 11 3 19 8 7 1 2 31 78 32 2 34 9 1 80 4 20 21 35 4 1 2 2 2 5 $17,000 3,000 8,000 3,500 43,720 1,800 54,556 36,354 18,925 3,500 8,500 79,975 76,858 52,546 1,200 72,100 33,500 225 156,084 12,200 57,583 40,100 44,500 9,000 175 1,050 7,200 5,580 14,200 9 1 6 1 27 5 31 19 13 2 3 57 101 55 4 55 17 3 135 5 54 31 40 6 3 4 5 3 10 11 2 7 2 24 4 41 26 22 5 4 63 77 63 2 74 19 2 178 6 26 38 47 9 2 ""ii"" 5 11 1,395 500 1,474 270 3,003 107 6,505 5,000 2,248 1,000 800 11,499 14,088 12,084 68 11,635 3,250 36 27,146 825 5,837 6,815 7,055 1,375 31 235 1,550 450 2,245 1,006,445 643,510 192,730 837,550 6,423,689 764,850 17,917,494 13,714,985 4,128,380 2,648,657 104,374 74,000 Cayuga Chautauqua Chemung Chenango Cortland Erie 82,216 625,382 25,075 1,879,368 1,406,157 435,774 264,865 Essex Fulton Herkimer JeflFerson Lewis 32,157,583 32,618,713 33,531,746 ""'33,037,456' 5,747,902 3,092,268 3,357,546 3,171,721 Livingston Madison Monlgomery . .. Niagara Oneida Onondaga Orange Oswego , . Otsego 19,900 3,420,057 474,622 9 606 70,414,328 2,631,304 9,962,949 13,450,857 15.455,437 2,348,322 8,107,018 1,272,633 724,854 1,386,005 1,559,591 St. Lawrence. .. 322,615 10,372 4,500 340,260 46,229 446,011 Tompkins Washington Wyoming 3,237,512 461,696 4,343,153 Total 425 $862,931 705 781 128,526 307,677,242 32,663,014 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 217 We give the preceding tahle, collected from official sources, showing the amount of capital invested in factory buildings, the number of hands employed at the factories, average number of cows delivering milk, pounds of milk, and pounds of cheese made during the season of 1864, at four hundred and twenty-five factories. The summary is made by counties. From the foregoing statistics it would not be practicable to deduce general results to show the relative products and profits of manufacturing in the several counties, since some of the factories were in operation only part of the season. A better estimate can be made from the following statistics, gathered from the New York State census returns, showing the operations of one hundred and thirty-three factories selected from the whole number, and working through the season of 1864. The tables were made up and published in the New York Tribune soon after the returns were completed, and for convenient reference the factories are numbered from one to one hundred and thirty-three, inclusive : 218 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Table sbowin"; tlie capital invested in buildings, persons emploj^ed in mnnufncturing, num- ber of cows, season of beginning and closing operations, pounds of milk and pounds of cbeese, at one bundred and lliirty-tbree different factories in various parts of tbe State of New York, for tlie year 1864: I Persons em- _ Q ployed is a O n b Q ^ « 2 3 A < < («!5Sri!555sv two ounces of = ^ XI salt to twenty. ^"^^^ <^"™^^ ^^'^■ two pounds of butter. In making winter butter a little more salt is added at the last working. The butter, after having been salted and worked, is allowed to stand till Chfrn Dashees. evening, and is then worked a second time and packed in sixty pound pails and shipped twice a week to New York. At this factory in hot weather, after the butter is salted and worked over, 250 Practical Dairy Husbandry. it is taken to the spring and immersed in the water where it remains until evening when it is taken out and worked over and packed. For winter butter a small teaspoonful of pulverized saltpetre and a large tablespoonful of white sugar are added for the twenty-two pounds of butter at the last working. No coloring matter is used in butter at this establishment. The butter is worked on an inclined slab with beveled sides running down to the lower end and within four inches of each other. A long wooden lever, so formed as to fit in a socket at this point, is used for working the butter. It is very simple and does the Avork effectually. In churning, the dashers are so arranged as to go within a quarter of an inch of the bottom of the churn at every stroke, and rise above the cream in their upward stroke. When butter is packed in firkins, none but those made of white oak are used. These firkins are very handsomely made, and are tight so as not to allow the least leakage. Before using they are soaked in cold water, and The Butteb Bowl and Ladle. after that in hot water, and then again with cold water. After being filled with butter they are headed up and strong brine poured in at the top to fill all the intervening spaces. The pails for holding the milk in the springs are daily cleaned with soap and hot water, rinsed in spring water, and put on a rack to dry. In furnishing a factory two pails are allowed for each cow, as it is necessary to have a double set. THE CHEESE. In making the cheese, the milk is set at eighty-two degrees ; highest heat, ninety-six degrees to ninety-eight degrees, and three pounds of salt to one hundred of curd. The curd is pressed in fourteen inch hoops, and cheese made four inches high. They are of a very good flavor, and by no means unpalatable — though of course, inferior to pure milk cheese. These cheeses are shipped to warm climates, and many of them go to China in exchange for tea. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 251 OKANGE COUNTY MILK ASSOCIATION. This establishment commenced operations in 1862. The main building is sixty feet by twenty-four feet, and is located about four miles northeast from Middletown. The number of cows from which milk is delivered is five hundred and fifty, and the farmers owning the building number thirty. The construction of the building and spring house is similar to that of the Wall- kill Association. There are two spring rooms, each ten by twenty-four feet. The water here is soft, aud stands at a temperature of fifty degrees. The factory stands near or adjoining a wet and springy piece of ground, covered with fragments of rock from the Shawangunk Mountains. At this VAT GEOtTND Plan op Orange County Milk Associatioit Bctteb Factobt, establishment, in addition to the spring room there is a cellar twelve feet by fourteen feet, with walls nicely laid up with stone, and extending into the bank, at the rear end of the building. Here the butter is stored in summer as soon as packed, where it remains until ready to be shipped. In the fall of the year, when cream does not readily sour, it is put in the churn in the evening and a can of water raised to 100° set in the cream. It is left there over night, and by morning the cream sours. EOCKVILLE MILK ASSOCIATION. The main structure is twenty-five by fifty feet — two stories, which are used for manufacturing and curing cheese — adjoining this on one end, is the spring room, and on the side running back in the shape of L, is the churn room, twenty by thirty feet. On the end of the churn room is the ice house, which is arranged so as to lead out of the churn room with a broad hall or alley, which serves as a cellar for storing butter. 252 Practical Dairy Husbanbry. This hall has double sides packed in with tan-bark, and the ice-house being on one side, with communication by door, makes it a cool and nice place for keeping butter or cream in summer. In the spring room there are two A'ats, one nine feet by twelve feet, and the other eight feet by twelve feet, sunk even with the floor, and arranged so as to be filled from one spring. The temperature of the water is 48®. It is soft water, but less so than those at the other factories to which we have referred. The delivery of the milk is at a window and on a platform the liight of the wagon. As the teams drive up, the cans are slid upon the platform and emptied into a large receiving box or can of tin inside the window, standing upon platform scales, where the milk is weighed and then conducted out by two faucets into the long tin pails or coolers. The cost of structure and fixtures was $3,000. The number of cows from which milk is delivered is four hundred and twenty-five, and on November 1st the receipts were eighteen hundred quarts — estimating a quart, wine measure, to weigh ^ 5 two pounds. Milk varies in weight, and a ^ ^ M wine quart weighs at some seasons of the ^ 30 year, a trifle over two pounds. During the • I OO A >^3 Ground Plan of Rockvillb Butter Factory. month of May, when cows are in pasture, Mr. Slaughter finds that one hundred quarts, wine measure, will weigh two hundred and eleven pounds. The milk here is kept in the spring from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, when the cream is taken off" and alloAved to sour, and then churned. Mr. Upte- GROVE, the Superintendent of the factory, says that about one-tenth more butter is obtained from the cream when churned sour than when sweet. BUTTER MAKING AT THE ORANGE COUNTY FACTORY. The churns are the barrel and a-half dash churn, and are filled about half full of cream, which is diluted by putting in cold Avater in summer and warm Practical Dairy Husbandry. 253 water in cold weather, at the rate of sixteen to thirty quarts for each mess or churning. The temperature of the cream in summer, when the churns are started is about 60°, but in cold weather they are started at about 64°. When a mess of cream is to be churned the churns are filled about half full, and a pail of spring Avater added to dilute the cream ; in warm weather cold water is used and in cold weather warm water, so as to make the mass at a temperature of 60° to 62°. The temperature of the cream while churning is kept below 65 °, for if at the close of the churning the buttermilk should be at a temperature above 64° the flavor and color of the butter are injured. When the butter begins to come, the churn is rinsed down with cold water. After the butter is taken from the churn, care is taken not to touch it more than is necessary with the hands. The butter trays are elliptical in shape, and the ladle is used for turning over the butter while it is being washed. In salting and working over, the whole is done by the buiter-worker heretofore described, and great care is taken not to work it too much, as overworking spoils the grain and makes the butter salvy, A twenty-two pound batch is laid upon the inclined slab or butter-worker, and the lever applied, first beginning at one side, until the whole is gone over. Only a few manipula- tions of this kind are required, and one is surprised at the expedition with which this part of the process is efiected. The salting and working of the butter is by the same rule adopted at the other factories, eighteen ounces of salt being used for twenty-two pounds of butter. The butter-worker is similar to the one alluded to, except that the lever is diamond-shaped, which it is claimed is an improvement. The inclined triangular slab on which the butter is worked stands upon legs, and has beveled sides about three inches high. It is four feet long and twenty-five inches wide at the upper end, tapering down to five inches at the lower end. At this point there is an opening for the escape of the butter-milk into a pail below. In salting, the butter is washed and then spread out Avith the ladle upon the worker, and fine, pure Ashton salt sprinkled over the mass. It is then turned over a little with the ladle and afterwards worked with the lever. At this factory there was a little contrivance consisting of a wheel and lever and weight" for regulating the stroke of the dashers when churning. The trays are elliptical, being two and a-half feet long and one and a-half feet across, and will hold twenty-five pounds of butter. The butter is packed in Orange county pails or tubs holding sixty pounds, or in oak firkins of eighty pounds, as at the other factories, and shipped twice a week to New York, bringing seventy cents per pound. The association is composed of twenty- eight farmers who have dairies running from five to ten and up to thirty cows. Obanse county Butter- Wobkek. 254 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Four farmers not belonging to the association deliver milk here and are charged $1.50 per cow extra. Return Butter Pail. FiBKm. Orange County Butter Packages. Half FmKiN. DAIRY PRODUCTS OF THE UNITED STATES. The following tables give the number of pounds of butter and cheese made in different sections of the Union, according to the census returns of 1850 and 1860. The total production of butter in the United States and Territories in 1850 was 313,345,306 pounds, and in 1860, 469,681,372 pounds. Of cheese, the product in 1850 was 105,535,893, pounds, and in 1860, 103,- 663,927 pounds, showing an increase in the production of butter, and a decrease in cheese during that decade. From the tables it will be seen which States are largely interested in this branch of industry. For convenience of reference we have arranged the States in groups : Amount of Butler and Clieese made in 1860 and 1850. 1860. 1850. I860. NEW ENGLAND STATES, Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, Vermont,.. . . , Total, MIDDLE STATES. New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, District of Columbia, ." ." Total, 7,620,912 11,687,781 8,297,936 6,956,764 10,211,767 15,900,359 ,498,119 243,811 ,071,370 ,977,056 995,670 137,980 60,675,519 52,924,006 103,097.280 58,653,511 10,714.447 1,430.502 5,265,295 18,835 79,766,094 39,878.418 9,487,210 1,055,308 3,806,160 14,872 179,179,870 134,008,062 3,898,411 1.799,862 5,294,090 2,232,092 181,511 8,215,030 5,363,277 2,434.454 7,088,142 3,196,563 316,508 8,720,834 21,620,996 27,119,778 48,548,289 2,508,556 182,172 6,579 8,342 51,253,938 49,741,413 2,505,034 365,756 3,187 3,975 1,500 52,620,865 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 255 Amount uf l)\ilter aud cheese made in 1860 and 1850. — Continued. 18G0. 1850. 1860. 1850. WESTERN STATES. Indiana Illinois, Iowa, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio, Kentucky, Wisconsin, Kansas, Nebraslca, Total, SOUTHERN STATES. Alabama, Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Mississippi, Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, Total, PACIFIC STATES AND TERRITORIES, CaliTornia, Oregon, New Mexico, Wasiiington, Utah, Total 18,306 28,052 11.958 15,503 2,957 12,704 48,543 11,716 13,611 1,093 343 ,651 ,551 ,666 ,482 ,673 837 ,162 ,609 ,328 ,497 541 164,786,997 6,028,478 4,067,556 408,855 5,439,765 5,006,610 1,444,743 4,735,495 3,777,934 10,017,787 5,850,583 13,464,722 60,242,258 3,095,035 1,000,157 13,259 153,092 316,046 4,577,589 12,881,535 12,526,543 2,171,188 7,065,878 1,100 7,834,359 34,449,379 9,947,523 3,633,750 90,511,255 4,008,811 1,854,239 371,498 4,640,599 4,346,234 683,069 4,746,290 2,981,850 8,139,583 2,344,900 11,089,359 45,206,392 705 211,464 111 83,309 295,589 605,795 1,848,557 918.635 1,641,897 199,314 259,633 21,618,893 190,400 1,104,300 29,045 12,342 28,428,811 15,923 16,810 5,280 15,587 4,427 6,153 51,119 1,543 133,575 275,128 280,852 808,397 1,343,689 105,379 37,240 12,146 53,331 1,551,785 624,564 1,278,225 209,840 1,011,493 203,572 20,819,542 213,954 400,283 24,761,472 31,412 30,088 18,015 46,976 21,191 1,957 95,921 4,970 177,681 95,299 436,292 959,802 150 36,980 5,848 30,998 73,976 We have not the exact figures on hand for giving the statistics of butter and cheese made in the Union during the year 1865, but the production of cheese in the middle and western States alone, it is believed, was more than two hundred millions of pounds. From facts gathered by the American Dairymen's Association, it is known that there are now upward of a thousand cheese factories in operation throughout the United States. If the number of cows to each be estimated at five hundred, we have half a million cows employed in the associated dairies, and if the average annual yield per cow be put at three hundred pounds, we have in the aggregate one hundred and fifty million pounds. But there are a large number of private or family dairies in operation, especially in the eastern or middle States, the production 256 Practical Dairy Husbandry. of which, it is believed, will more than make up the estimated annual product of cheese for 1865 to two hundred million pounds. If the value of the cheese product of 1865 be put on an average of fifteen M cents per pound, it shows a total of $30,000,000, while the butter product, if .■ no larger than that of 1860, at the low price of twenty-five cents per pound, would amount to over $114,000,000. In the estimate of the cheese product it will be proper to remark that the quantity is presumed to be the amount sold, and does not include that consumed in the families of producers. EXPORTS OF CHEESE AIS'D BUTTER. The statistics of trade show that the dairy products of the country are becoming an important branch of commerce. The following table gives the quantity of butter and cheese exported from New York for a series of years : LBS. OF BUTTER. LBS. OP CHEESE. 1858 5,098,000 9,287,000 23 252 000 1859 2,494,000 10,987,000 21,865,000 29,241.000 23,060;793 14,174,861 22,000,000 5,000,000 I860 1861 40 041 000 1863 38,722,000 40.781,168 46 755 842 1863 1864 1865 47 101 000 1866 45 000 000 1867 58 000 000 The decrease in the cheese exjDorts of 1865 from those of the year previous, resulted from an extraordinary home demand, which took large quantities of cheese at a price in advance of what shippers felt warranted to pay for it to export. The shipments abroad have been mostly to Great Britain. A light exportation for a number of years has been kept up with the West Indies and with South America, the trade with the latter being for the most part in a a poorer grade of cheese made from skimmed milk. Recently this chai'acter of cheese has found a favorite reception in China, where parcels have been sent in exchange for tea. It is believed there is a wide range of market yet unopened for the disposal of American cheese, needing only a little enterprise on the part of dealers for its introduction ; and that when once introduced, it . will increase steadily until a heavy foreign demand is reached. Great Britain alone can now take considerably more than our surplus, and since the qualities and adaptation of styles to her needs meets, year by year, greater favoi-, the time cannot be far distant when America will be regarded, if she be not already, the great cheese-producing country of the world. ENGLISH AND AMERICAN DAIRYING THEIR POINTS OF DIFFERENCE AND COMPARATIVE MERITS. Associated dairying is now conducted on so large a scale, and has so wide a range in America, as to give it distinctive features of nationality. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 257 European writers have asserted that this system was inaugurated in Switzer- land, and that America simply borrowed the idea, putting it into successful operation, and therefore is not entitled to any mei'it as to its originality. Without stopping to point out the great dissimilarity between the associated dairy management of Switzerland and that of America, the truth of history demands the statement, that whatever excellence may attach to the American system, nothing in it has been borrowed from abroad. In the report of the Department of Agriculture for 1865 I gave a brief account of the origin of the cheese factory movement. Having been familiar with its early history, with the men and causes that led the way to this improvement in dairy prac- tice, I feel competent to speak authoritatively on the subject, and claim its originality as wholly American. The American factory system now stands pre-eminently in advance of dairy practice in the Old World. By it a more uniform and better product of cheese and butter can be made. These must soon take the lead in Euro- pean markets, and European nations will adopt the system or be content to see their own products rank as secondary, and sold at inferior prices. Since the adoption of the factory system a large export trade has grown up between America and Great Britain. The value of American cheese now sent abroad is from seven to ten millions of dollars annually, and as factories improve in the quality of their manufacture, a much larger trade, it is believed, will be inaugurated. England is old in dairy husbandry, and always claimed superiority in dairy practice. A great many styles of cheese are manufactured, and some of them sell in their pi'incipal markets at better prices than that made at our factories. American dairymen, previous to 1866 had never been able to find out wherein this superiority lay. In view of the large trade already existing, and likely to increase, it was deemed important that a better knowledge of English dairy husbandry and cheese-making be obtained. The American Dairy Asso- ciation, therefore, engaged the writer to go abroad for this purpose, and the following pages are briefly the result of observations over the dairy districts of Great Britain during the summer of 1866. The dairy lands of Great Britain, it is believed, are no better than in the best dairy districts of America. Pastures, there, it is true, will generally carry more stock than ours, because theirs are freer from weeds and better managed. The yield of hay from per- manent meadows is no larger than from our best lands, two tons per acre being considered a good crop, but theirs is composed of a greater variety of grasses, is finer, and doubtless more nutritious than ours on account of less waste in woody fiber. Their dairy stock is generally no better than in our first-class dairies. I think there is no county in England or Scotland where the average yield of cheese per cow is so large as in Herkimer county, New York. In the management of farms they are generally far in advance of us, but in cheese-making their appliances are inferior, their work more laborious, and they have but really one style of cheese that competes with the best grades 17 I 258 Practical Dairy Husbandry. of our factory make. This is the cheddar, of which the leading features in manufacture will be found under its appropriate head. In the cheddar process as well as in the management of stock of milk and dairy farms, there are doubtless suggestions which will be adopted in our practice when their supe- riority is demonstrated. I have endeavored to call attention to the fact, and to state the point clearly. THE CHEESE DISTEICTS OP ENGLAND. The cheese districts of England are grouped together in counties lying contiguous. Thus in the south are found Gloucester, Somerset, Wilts, Dorset, &c., while in the north there are Cheshire, Lancashire, Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Shropshire. Other counties produce cheese in limited quantities, but not to such an extent as to make it a leading business. I wentj into the southern districts first, and found three styles of cheese, each having' a diiferent shape and character, and differently manufactured. They were the Cheddar, the double and single Gloucester, and the Wilts. I had never seen any large tract of country so beautiful as this part of] England. It was in June, when the hedges were covered with dark greenl foliage, the pastures flecked with the daisy and butter-cup, flowers celebrated by the poets. But the English daisy is not to be confounded with that pest of our fields, the ox-eye daisy, for it is small and unpretending, and does not suck up the life of the land. Then the smooth roads, the villas, the farm-j houses, and the hamlets, with their adornments, together with the garden-likef] cultivation of the land, formed a picture ever to be remembered. For quiet,! pastoral scenery, England is surpassingly beautiful. Everything seems to be " picked up " and in place. You see no tumble-down fences, no unsightly stone heaps, disfiguring the land, no cheap wooden houses falling to pieces,| no remains of wood-piles and other accumulated trash, like a cancer blotching* the premises, but everything seems to be swept up and in order, or, to use a homely phrase, " prepared for company." M SOMEESET AND ITS SYSTEM OF EAEMING. Somerset has a rolling, undulating surface, and it is in this county that the famous Cheddar cheese originated. In form the county is difficult to describe, perhaps partaking more of an oblong figure than any other. According to recent returns of live stock, &c., its area is one million seventy-four thou- sand two hundred and twenty acres, containing four hundred and forty- four thousand eight hundred and seventy-three inhabitants ; eighty-four thousand two hundred and sixty-two cows ; eighty-nine thousand two hundred and fifty-seven young stock ; six hundred and thirty-six thousand nine hundred and seventy-five sheep ; and seventy-five thousand four hundred and sixty- nine pigs. The surface of the country is generally uneven, and towards the west, on the borders of North Devon, approaching to mountainous. The principal hills lie east and west, and are nearly parallel with each other. These ranges are generally poor, affording pasture for a coarse kind of sheep Practical Dairy Husbandry. 259 and some young cattle. The hill-tops of the south and south-west are covered with heather. The geological features of the country are varied, and are chiefly composed of mountain limestone, inferior oolite, the white and blue lias, and the new red sandstone. The highest hills are mountain limestone, which has been forced up from its proper place, and is found overtopping the upper strata to a hight of six or seven hundred feet. The eastern part of the country is generally oolitic, stretching away northward to Bath, at which place it produces some of the finest building stone in the kingdom. The lias comes next in rotation, cropping out from under the oolite westward. The red sandstone is not so prevalent. This, with the oolite, is the lightest soil upon which lai-ge flocks of sheep are kept, which in the south, are chiefly of the South Down breed, but in the northern district, towards Bath, are crossed with the Leicester, forming a larger and more remunerative animal. The method of farming is the four or five-field shift — 1st, wheat : 2d, green crop (turnips, vetches, etc.) ; 3d, barley ; 4th and 5th, clover first and second year. The wheat crop is from twenty-four to forty bushels per acre ; barley from thirty- two to sixty bushels, sometimes more. A heavier kind of land is found on the lias formation. A team of four horses, or six or eight oxen, is employed in plowing it. This is more productive of grain than the lighter land, and is farmed in a similar manner. In some places what is termed a dog-flock, that is, young sheep of a year or so old, are fattened for the Bristol and Bath markets. The lowlands and valleys are rich and i^roductive. Between the ranges of hills before noticed are some of the richest plains in England. The vale of Taunton Dean, in the south of the county, is extremely rich. Another nearly level plain extends from the town of Bridgewater to the Mendip hills, and eastward to the city of Wells. Another plain, but rather more uneven, stretches north of the Mendip towards Bristol. These plains are largely devoted to the fattening of beef and mutton for the supply of the local, and also the London markets. Somerset is noted for its cheese, of which large quantities are made. It bears the name of Cheddar from a small village at the foot of the Mendip hills. The name oi'iginated from the farmers of the village uniting the milk of their cows for the purpose of making a larger cheese. This was done at each other's houses in turn. From that time, which was about one hundred years ago, the thick cheese made in Somersetshire has borne the name of Cheddar, and bears the highest quotations of any English cheese in the London and other markets. It is made much thicker than was at first anticipated. The size that now is in request ranges from forty to eighty and up to one hundred pounds ; the shape is from ten to fourteen inches in depth, and fifteen and a-half inches in diameter. This county, and the others south, have suffered very little from the cattle plague. Dairy cows, however, during the season (1866) have been high, com- manding from eighteen to twenty pounds sterling per cow, or from ninety to one hundred dollars. The dairy cows are motley grades, and so far as I have 260 Practical Dairy Husbandry. seen, do not show any better milking qualities than the first-class dairies of Herkimer and Oneida counties, New York. DESCEIPTIOIS" OF STOCK. The cattle kept in the county at this time are the Devon and Short-Horn, the former pure of their kind, the latter rarely so, but have been employed to improve the original stock of the country. The Devons are said to have been formerly (with few exceptions), a small, three-cornered, nondescript animal, of little use to the dairyman, and less to the breeder and grazier. Their home is South Somerset and North Devon, The race is wonderfully improved through the energy and perseverance of some farmers, who have taken the best animals they could find and bred from them, until they have succeeded in producing one of the best animals of which England can boast. In the opinion of some no beef is equal to it, the fat and lean being so nicely inter- mingled. Their milking qualities are not yet equal to those of other kinds. A few years since there was a breed called the Hampshire cow, a useful animal for any purpose, of good constitution, size, milk, and beef. Mr. Harding gave me a description of a cow of this breed, nearly the last of the race, which was twenty years old, and had been milked the jDrevious summer, and in the March following went to the butchers at £20 Is. I was told that fifty years ago, in the neighborhood of the Mendip hills, they had what was termed the " Mendip cow," of little service but to milk ; but both these good, and inferior animals have passsed away, and they have scarcely any cow but what partakes, in a greater or less degree, of the Short-Horn breed. QUANTITY or CHEESE, ETC. The increased quantity of cheese supplied by this county is not due, it is said, to the change of stock, so much as to the superior management of the present day in feeding stock, clearing the hedge-rows, and draining the wet land, &c. Fewer cows were kept thirty years ago than now. It was then generally supposed that no more could be kept with advantage beyond what half of the pasture or grass land would supply with grass in the summer, and the other half cut for the winter. Now they keep more cows, mow less, and in winter do with less hay ; they feed with straw and oil cake while the cows are dry, so that they get little or no hay till thej" calve. Three pounds of cake per day (the best American) they say will keep a cow in fair condition if straw be given ad libitum. In some particular districts as much as six hundred weight or six hundred and seventy-two pounds of cheese per cow, it is said, are made. This is on the best cheese-producing land ; and this, from long observation, is chiefly on some one of the oolite formations. Not only does it produce the largest amount of cheese, but also of butter. There are no statistics of the quantity of cheese made annually in the county, but from all I can gather, it is from eighteen million to twenty-five million of pounds. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 261 wiltshire. For diversity and beauty of scenery Wiltshire is not equal to Somerset. Its geological formation, in general terms, may be classed in three divisions, namely, the white lias, which is lowest, the several classes of oolite, and the chalk. According to the late returns the ai'ea is 865,092 acres. The number of cows kept is 44,760 ; young stock and oxen, 32,967 ; sheep, 596,822 ; and pigs, 61,012. The natural division of the county is so remarkably distinct, that it must be described accordingly, viz., north and south. The south part, with a few exceptions, is the chalk district, and forms what is called the Wiltshire downs. Lying high, the land is very thin ; still the valleys and slopes are rich for growing grain and turnips. The farms are large, some 1,000 to 2,000 acres. Large numbers of sheep, known as the South Downs, are kept upon these farms. They have black faces and feet, the wool short and fine. The mutton commands the highest price in the London market of any in the kingdom. Though small in size, they will frequently load them- selves with flesh, so as to reach 120 pounds in weight. In this district is the celebrated Salisbury Plain, also on the chalk. It is not strictly a plain, except in general appearance ; but is beautifully undulating, not unlike the ocean with its long swells after a storm. The farming of this district is generally the four-field system. In some places, such as on the white clay and the sandy loam at the bottom of the hills, it is worked in the three-field system. All the light land is plowed with two horses. Neat and good farming is every- where seen, and it is claimed is scarcely surpassed in England. North Wilt- shire is very difierent in appearance from the south. The broad uninclosed downs are no more seen, but rather inclosed fields with numbers of trees in the hedges, giving the appearance of forests from the surrounding hights. This is the oolite district, and is farmed in much the same manner as the south, being all light lands. The temperature of the climate being warmer, the grain ripens earlier and is therefore less liable to blight. THE WHITE LIAS AND DAIRY DISTRICT. The lias is a very small portion and may be merged into the dairy district, which is principally in the middle and northern j)arts. The cows are Short- Horns, and regarded here as the most useful in England, excellence in milk and meat being alike sought for. A large quantity of cheese is made which finds its way to the London and other markets. The quality of the cheese is not the best ; a little milk butter is usually taken out, but not always, but a large quantity of whey butter is often made. The method of cheese making is laborious, not so much in the manipulation of the curd ^s in the salting and pressing and the preparation for market, all being unnecessary labor. The salting, which might and ought to be in the curd, is continued over two or three days, rubbing it in with the hand over the external parts of the cheese, which receives a fresh cloth every time it is salted, which in some instances is twice a day. The cheese is then continued in the press, turned every 262 Practical Dairy Husbandry. morning for from four to six days, after which it may venture to the cheese room, which is a large, airy room, supposed to be requisite for properly dry- ing. The cheese is then allowed to throw out a coat, generally blue. This coat must be scraped off and a new one formed, after which it goes to the market, realizing from ten to fifteen shillings, under the improved Cheddar price. Wiltshire, up to the 21st of April last, had lost but ninety-nine cattle on account of cattle plague, and I heard of no cases in the county during the summer. The principal dairy district of Wilts ranges from Westbury, in the south, to Chippenham, northward, around Chippenham and towards Swindon, from forty to fifty miles in length. It is generally narrow from Westbury to Chip- penham, and from Chippenham to Swindon from ten to twelve miles wide and a pretty level tract of country. Before reaching Salisbury to the south you strike the chalk formation which underlies the " Salisbury plains." In going to Salisbury from the north, the chalk first shows itself in a range of high bluffs or hills. The chalk lands are rather light and are worked with two horses, while with the heavier lands three or four horses are attached to the plow. Upon the lowlands the soil is of richer character. In passing through this county one is continually coming upon large flocks of sheep in charge of shepherds— mutton sheep, of course, since the production of meat is always an important element in the resources of British agriculture. MANNER OF MAKING WILTS CHEESE. There is nothing in the manufacture of Wilts cheese that would be of any account to the dairymen of America, and it is a matter of surprise that the people of this district are so bound up in old practices as to waste their time and substance in manufacturing cheese of this character. Comparing the Wiltshire method and the apparatus in use with our factory system, the latter is about a century in advance. I give some of the leading features of the Wilts method of manufacture, not for the purpose of benefiting anybody, but rather as a matter of curiosity, if I may so term it. I was upon some of the best farms of Wiltshire, and among some of the most intelligent of its cheese makers, and shall give their best practice. The night's milk is skimmed in the morning and added to the morning's mess ; milk set at 80° and left about an hour to coagulate. It is then broken up with a circular breaker having an upright handle and used as you would push a churn dash up and down. The breaking is done gently at first. In cooking the mass is raised to 100°, stirring all the time with the breaker. It is then left to rest, and as soon as the curd can be handled it is taken out of scald and put to press. It remains in press twenty minutes ; is then taken out, ground and salted at the rate of two pounds of salt to the hundred weight of curd. It is ground again and put to press. The next day the cheese ia taken out of press and salted on the outside, receives a new cloth, and is put back to press, the same course being pursued for two successive days, after Practical Dairy Husbandry. 263 which it gets no more salting, but is kept in press eight days, each day being taken out and turned. It is then put into a stone cheese room and left for a week or two and turned every day. At the end of this time the cheese will be covered with mold, when it is put in a tepid bath or moistened and the mold scraped off, when it goes to the dry room. Here it is turned every day until fit for market, say from sixty to ninety days old, or according to the demand and price. The Wiltshire cheese is less solid than the Gloucester, to which I shall refer hereafter. At one of the farms I visited, where sixty cows were kept, and very nice stock, too, the product was a trifle over two pounds of curd per day from each cow, and one and a-half pounds of butter for each cow per week. Cockey's cheese apparatus was in use, which consists of a tub having a double bottom, the upper one copper, heat being applied between the two, either with hot water or steam ; but generally the old-fashioned tubs hold sway. The hoop for pressing the cheese is turned out of a solid block of wood, with a bottom to it pierced with holes for the whey to escape. When put to press, some eight cheeses are piled up together, one above the other, and the pressure applied to the lot at one time. The milk pails are made of tin, and hold about twenty-four quarts ; they are formed with a projection or handle on one side and are carried upon the head while taking the milk to the dairy. The Wiltshire dairies are very cleanly. The dairy rooms are built of stone, with stone floors and whey vats of lead, and everything kept in the neatest possible manner. In this respect they are models, but the amount of labor in cheese making is very great, and the dairywomen adhere with perti- nacity to the old customs, giving no reason for this waste of labor, except that " that is the way we always do." In Wiltshire I found the stock better than in Somersetshire, some attention being paid to breeding. Wiltshire has a great cheese market at Chippenham. THE CHEESE MARKET AT CHIPPENHAM. The market place is an open court surrounded by buildings, one side of which is open and supported by pillars, thus giving a spacious place for the stowing of cheese under cover. The open court is nicely paved, and the arcades on either side have a stone floor. The cheese is brought in carts, packed loosely in straw, without boxing. They are taken from the cart and placed upon the stone floors in the arcades, spread out or piled up. Each dairy farmer has his lot together, and they are thus exposed for sale. The cheesemongers or dealers come down from London, Bristol, Bath and other places, and make their purchases. There is a constant hum of voices and tread of feet, as one can readily imagine where a large number of people are collected together intent on selling or purchasing, or are here out of curiosity, or perhaps to meet persons on other business beside the cheese trade. The dealers go aboiit testing the cheese, making their purchases and ordering it 264 Practical Dairy Husbandry. to be sent away as sales have been made. No boxes are used in the trans- portation of cheese as with us in America. The market days here are twice a month, and often, I was told, as much as two or three hundred tons of cheese are in the market during the fall sales. There was a considerable quantity on sale at the time of my visit, all new cheese, and most of it Wilt- shire. The Wiltshire cheese is a small, flat cheese, from four to five inches thick, fifteen to sixteen inches in diameter, and taking four to make one hun- dred weight (one hundred and twelve pounds). They are inferior to the Cheddar, and very much inferior to American factory cheese, and the highest prices are only occasionally realized. GLOUCBSTEKSHIEB, I think there are no statistics giving the number of pounds of cheese annually produced in Gloucestershire, but some estimate may be made from ofiicial returns of the number of coavs in the county. It is put at 34,744; loss from cattle plague up to 21st of April, 116. I understand that the losses since that time have not been of much account. The geological features are the oolite, the lias and the new red sandstone, the former comprising the principal part of the hills and high lands, the lias the more level and the latter the richer and deeper soils of the valleys, which are chiefly pasture lands, upon which butter, cheese and meat are largely produced. The oolite strata in its varied character runs from north to south, forming the Cotswold hills. Entering Somersetshire at Lansdown, near Bath, where it furnishes the beautiful Bath stone, passing outward into North Somerset, widening as it enters Wiltshire, soon after which, in the neighborhood of Westbury, it is no longer the surface soil, but becomes loaded with the green sandstone and chalk formation, like the snail which bears its shell upon its back. The Cots- wold hills are well farmed in the four, five or six course systems, according to the capability of the • soil. Wheat, barley and turnips are successfully grown. The hills give the name to the Cotswold sheep — which have long been bred and fed there — beautiful animals, with white face, and of highly improved quality, both as regards meat and wool, the latter being long and fine, the fleece weighing from five to ten pounds. A ram will sometimes turn ofi" fifteen or sixteen pounds of wool. They are generally heavier in mutton than the Downs. On the western side of the Cotswold hills, extending to the Severn River, and fifteen to twenty miles in length, is what is called the vale of Berkeley. It has every appearance of having been, in past time, covered with the sea. This valley is the chief dairy district of the county of Gloucester. The native cow is of dark color, with a black nose, short legs ; is a thick-set, well-built animal ; altogether a very useful beast ; but the Short-Horns and Herefords are displacing her. In the regular Gloucestershire dairies the cheese is made thin, eight of them only weighing one hundred and twenty pounds. They are made twice PRJicTiCAL Dairy Husbanbby. 265 a day, the work beginning about seven o'clock in the morning, and being finished about ten or eleven o'clock. At five in the afternoon they commence with the evening milk, and finish between eight and nine o'clock. This cheese is known in the cheese-consuming world as the famous Berkely cheese. If well made it is rich and sweet, and the makers are quite as tenacious of their reputation as those Avho make cheese worth from ten to twenty shillings per hundred weight more money. Cows are generally kept, more or less, over the county except on the uplands. The south and south-west, around the neighborhood of Bristol, are the coal meadows. This district is not farmed so well, comparatively, as the other sections, from various circumstances ; being in the coal district, the surface is uneven and the enclosures small, as are also the farms ; besides it is near Bristol, at which place hay, sti'aw and milk are continually sold. CHEESE APPARATUS AND MODE OF " SINGLE GLOSTER " CHEESE MANUPACTUEE. At a nice farm in the southern part of Gloucestershire, which I visited in June for the purpose of seeing the operations of making " Single Gloster " cheese, the dairy consisted of thirty-five cows. These were Short-Horns, large, handsome, but not showing extraordinary capacity for milk. The dwelling, dairy and buildings Avere all of stone, large, commodious, and every^ thing kept in the neatest manner. The place where the cheese was made was a spacious room with stone floor, clean and well ventilated, and as cool and sweet an apartment as the most fastidious cheese-maker could desire. The utensils or appurtenances for cheese-making consisted of an unpainted tub for holding the milk, leaden vats for holding the whey, a circular wire curd- breaker, having an upright handle springing from the center, dippers, skim- mers, &c., with two box presses for pressing the cheese. The last were unlike anything I had ever seen, and consisted of large square boxes moving up between standards by means of pulleys and ropes attached to a windlass. The boxes were filled with stones, iron, &c., making a weight of several hundreds pounds, and applied directly on the cheese. These presses were very nicely made of dark wood, and varnished, evidently intended to be orna- mental as well as useful. From the manner of their make and the power to be applied in raising the weight, the services of a strong man would be required. The milk was being made up twice a day, making eleven cheeses of fourteen pounds each for every two days, each cheese being about two and a-half inches thick by fourteen or fifteen inches broad. There was no heating apparatus in the room, and none is required in the " Single Gloster " process of cheese-making. As soon as the milk is all deposited in the tub the rennet is added, when it is left to coagulate. As soon as properly coagulated it is broken up with the wire breaker, by moving it up and down, which has a tendency to pulp the curd i*ather than break it, as the word breaking is gener- ally understood by our cheese-makers. The mass is then left for the curd to settle, and after it has arrived at a proper degree of firmness to be handled 266 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the whey is dipped off down to the curd, the tub canted up to drain off what whey remains, and the curd gathered to the upper edge of the tub. The whey being removed, the curd is cut across and heaped up, and pressed with the hands to expel as much of the whey as possible, when it is put to press. It remains in press till morning, when it is taken out, turned and salted on the outside. It is then i-eturned to the press and goes through the same ope- ration from four to six successive days. When taken from the press it is put upon the shelf for a few days, to be turned every day, and finally goes to the cheese room, when it will be ready for market in two or three months, if prices suit. This cheese or drying room is in the upper part of the dwelling house, and the cheeses, when taken here, are placed close together on the floor. A chance dealer from Bristol, who was present, made a test of the cheeses by walking upon them as they lay spread out upon the floor, which we were assured was the usual method of determining their firmness and solidity. They stood the test of his weight and boots, and were pronounced among the best in Gloucestershire. The hoops in which the cheese is pressed are turned out of a solid piece of wood, and each has a stationary bottom pierced Avith holes, similar to the hoops used in Wiltshire. In one of the presses I counted fifteen cheeses piled up one upon another, all of which were being pressed together. I think from the above description none of our dairymen will care to make "Single Gloster" cheese and I cannot see why people there will continue to keep along in the same old rut of their forefathers without making some effort to improve. I have now presented some' of the general features of this great district. The country is well watered by springs and streams, but no better than, if as well as, many parts of the central counties of New York. Where watering places are constructed the plan is somewhat different from ours — small ponds being more numerous. The pastures produce, perhaps, more feed than with us, from several causes. In the first place they are more free from weeds ; they are better cared for in top-dressings of manures, while the humidity of the climate produces fresher feed and a greater quantity of verdure. The permanent pastures have a fine thick sod, filled with a variety of nutri- tious grasses, among which the following may be of interest in this connec- tion. The sweet-scented vei-nal grass {Anthoxanthum odorato) flowers in May, and grows freely in all soils and situations. It is one of the earliest of grasses, and the fragrant odor it affords when dried gives to meadow hay much of its sweetness. Meadow foxtail {Alopecurus pratensis) flowers in May and June. Its early, abundant, leafy produce is much liked by cattle and sheep, and renders it one of the most valuable of pasture grasses. It forms part of the best pastures and thrives under judicious irrigation. Meadow fescue {Festuca pratensis) flowers in June, likes a good soil, and does not attain its full growth until three years from the time of sowing. The produce is nutritious and abundant, and it forms a uniform and abundant turf. Cocks-foot grass {Dactylis glomerata) flowers in June and July, grows three feet high and upward, and forms a large portion of all the best natural Practical Dairy Husbandry. 267 pastures, and is regarded superior to most grasses in the quantity and quality of its produce. Its coarse and tufted character makes it unsuitable for lawns. Crested dogstail ( Cynosurus cry status) flowers in July, and is found in all pastures. It suffers but little from dry weather, but produces only a moderate quantity of fine herbage. Hard-fescue grass {Festuca duriuscula) grows two feet high and forms a portion of all dry pastures, and retains a permanent verdure. It flowers in June. Sheep fescue {Festuca ovina) is found in all dry soils from the sea land to a great elevation ; flowers in June. Meadow grass {Poa prate?isis), or Kentucky blue grass. It produces an early, nutri- tious herbage, and is regarded as particularly suited to light soils. Rough- stalked meadow grass (Poa trivialis), fibrous-rooted, rough stalks, forms a portion of almost all mixtures for permanent pasture-grasses, and is particu- larly desirable in grounds shaded with trees. Timothy is also found in pas- tures and meadows, but is not grown to the same extent as with us. Then there are the clovers, red and white, which are so largely grown with us ; and the Alsike clover [Trifolium hyhridum), a true perennial, very productive on moist, rich soils, and will succeed where red clover fails. It is regarded by many as superior to white clover in bulk and quality of produce, and equals it in duration. These are among the leading grasses ; and in seeding for permanent pastures, a compound of the best grasses and clovers is used, often as much as two bushels of the light and twelve pounds of the heavy seed to the acre. I think the question of pastures is better understood in England than with us, and it is a point on which we have something to learn from them. I can- not say that the quantity of grass from permanent meadows, or those long in grass, is larger than is often found with us, but the quality is finer and better — that is, the hay has less woody fiber than with us. At Rothamstead — Lawes' celebrated experimental farm — my attention was particularly called to the fineness of the grass made into hay. The old stocks which had been cut down, presented a solid mass of hay almost as fine as hair, and its nutri- tive quality must have been a third more than our timothy, on account of less waste of woody fiber. Allusion has been made to permanent meadows, but generally what we term meadows, that is, land devoted to the production of hay, are treated very differently from ours. Much of the hay is grown on what is termed the four or five course shift. It comes in regular rotation after grain crops. It is mowed once or twice, and then broken up for a crop of wheat. Various mixtures are sown, and large yields often result. I went upon a splendid, meadow in Devonshire, where the yield of grass upon the ground must have made at least two and a-half tons of hay per acre, and perhaps more, and it was the first crop. The seeding per acre was as follows : Eight pounds of red clover ; two pounds of white clover ; four pounds of trefoil ; three pounds of Peek's Italian rye-grass. This is not given as an illustration of the best mix- ture, but rather as a specimen of what our farmers would term heavy seeding. 268 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Lands often get more and a greater variety of seeds. Perhaps I am occupy- ing too much space by going so minutely into details ; but I feel earnest for the success of American farmers, and have thought that it might be of inter- Ml est for them to get a little insight into the manner in which dairy farms are ■ managed abroad. Perhaps this may be appreciated the more, when they are told that a farmer in the dairy regions of England often pays from |3,000 to |3,500 per annum in rents and taxation for a two-hundred-acre farm. He pays this for the land alone, and gets no use of any personal property Avhat- ever. He then stocks it at his own expense. He is at all the cost of uten- sils, labor, and of keeping the farm in repair. As the wealthy or " well-to-do " farmer, for the most part, never lays his hand to any labor beyond superin- tendence, one might naturally conclude, as I did, that pretty shrewd manage- ment at least is required to pay this sum, support his establishment, and lay up money from his business. By the judicious use of capital and the liberal use of fei'tilizers, and by a system of mixed farming, he is able to accomplish these results. It is true, labor is cheap. He pays his laborers from thirty to forty cents per day, and in harvest a little more ; but he does not board them. They have cottages — good, substantial buildings — and little gardens. These cottages, like the more pretentious mansion of the farmer, are erected by and at the expense of the landlord ; but a certain number of people go with the farm, and they pay rent to the fai'mer for their cottages, say about a shilling per week. The condition of the peasantry is, in many respects, most wretched ; but that need not be discussed here. The farmer's position is infinitely above them, and he lives, for the most part, the life of a gentleman. He is a man who is exjDccted to have some means, say from £8 to £10 per acre ; or, in other words, a floating capital of from forty to fifty dollars for every acre of his farm. This he uses in his business, purchasing stock and fertilizers, and making such improvements as he judges will pay him back remunerative profits. And here I cannot do better than introduce the reader to Mr. Haeding, of Marksbury, the great exponent of Cheddar cheese-making in England. Mr. Harding is perhaps sixty years old, and learned the great and essential principles of cheese-making from his ancestors. He has simplified the process of manufacture, and helped to reduce it more to a science; but he does not claim to be the originator of the Cheddar style. He is an intelli- gent, companionable man, with a rich vein of humor in his composition. A brief view of his mode of management will serve as an illustration of the manner in which dairy farms are conducted in the south of England, although in some respects, Mr. Harding's practice differs from that of others. MR. Harding's farm. The farm may be regarded as of rather inferior land, some of it a com- pact, tenacious soil, requiring a four-horse team to plow it. Comparatively, he places the farm under the head of middle-class lands, and when he first Practical Dairy Husbandrt. 269 came upon it, it was considered unadapted to tlie dairy. But, for illustration it will serve our purpose better to take some extra farm, since a nearer approximation will be reached to average results. The farm consists of three hundred acres, two hundred of which are in permanent pasture and meadow, and one hundred acres arable land. The farm is hilly, and rises from the new red sandstone, which is the poorest part, to the white lias, which is level, and upon which lies the arable portion, and again rising to the oolite, which is the best part of the farm. The permanent grass lands are used alternately for pasture and meadow, the change being made annually. Mr. Haeding making good cheese, which sells at a high price, believes it more remunerative to convert as much as possible of the arable land into milk. A considerable portion of the arable land is devoted to grasses that will come early to supply the cows in sjDring. The arable land is managed as follows: First crop, wheat ; second, turnips, vetches, tares, &c. ; third, barley ; when the land is seeded with I'ye-grass one bushel, trefoil, ten pounds, red clover, four pounds, white cloA^er, three pounds per acre. Upon these grasses the cows are pastured two seasons, when it is broken up in August or September and sown with wheat in October, without additional plowing. After the wheat is harvested, a portion of the stubble is immediately plowed and sown with winter tares for feeding sheep early in spring. Another portion is sown at the same time with trifolhitn i7icarnatu')n (Italian crimson clover), another part is sown in February with spi'ing tares, and the balance to Swedes and other turnips. All this feed is to be consumed for the feeding and fattening of sheep, of which from one to two hundred are kept. The sheep are purchased in August, at from six to eight months old, at prices ranging from seven dollars and a-half to ten dollars each, and the next season, after shearing, are sold at from fifteen to twenty dollars each. In fattening the sheep, they are hurdled and fed on the turnips, vetches, &c., with corn or cake, say of the latter at the rate of half a pound each per day. The turnips are grown in drills, with an application of from five to six hun- dred pounds of superphosphate per acre, leaving the principal part of the farm-yard manures for the permanent grass lands, upon which are kept from sixty-five to seventy cows, half-a-dozen heifers, and eight horses. Thirty-five dollars per ton are paid for the superphosphate. The cows are grades partaking largely of the Short-Horn blood, of good size, with a view that, when failing for the dairy, they may be turned to good account for making beef. Mr, Harding keeps more stock than he grows hay for, in the winter, thinking that grass is far more valuable than hay, and he makes up the lack of fodder by giving two parts straw and one of hay, cut to chaff, with three or four pounds of oil-cake per day to each animal. The cows yield about four hundred and fifty pounds of cheese each annually. They " come in milk " in February, and cheese-making commences about the first of March. The calves are sold to the butcher when a few days old, as is the practice of some of our dairymen. The cows are not kept in barns or 270 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt. close stables as is the practice in New York, but are tied in sheds built of stone, the floors nicely paved. In these they take their place during sum- mer — night and morning, for milking, and each milker is allotted seven cows. Tin pails are used for milking, and the milkers place them on the head when carrying the milk to the dairy. The pig in this dairy forms an important item of profit. A hundred or more are fattened during the year on barley meal mingled with the whey, which annually realize about seven dollars and a-half per hundredweight, after paying for the meal. The hogs are of the Berkshire breed, and very fine ones. They are kept in a nice, spacious stone piggery, cleaned and bedded every day. The barn is a large stone building, provided with a water-wheel, to which is attached the threshing machine, chaff-cutter and stones for grind- ing the grain. The dairy-house is connected with the dwelling, and is a model of neatness, being built of stone, and provided with Cocket's apparatus for cheese-making, a tolerably good apparatus, but much inferior to our factory vats. The milkers are not allowed to come into the dairy, but pour the milk into a receiver at the window, which conducts it to a tub. The whey passes off through pipes to a cistern in the piggery, where it is pumped for the pigs. The production of hay on permanent meadows of this farm is generally at the rate of three thousand eight hundred pounds to the acre. Farm-yard manures are not alloAved to accumulate in the yard, but are taken to the field where they are to be used and there piled. Here it is turned until pretty well rotted, when it is spread upon the lands to be mowed. It is applied at the rate of twenty cartloads per acre, and brushed down fine. Results. — ^Under this system the annual average receipts and expenditures are as follows, the calculations of course, being upon a gold standard : Cheese sold $5,000 Profit on sheep, including wool and mutton 500 Profit on pigs 600 Grain sold 1,800 Calves and butter 250 Total .' 8,150 The expenses are : , For rent $3,500 For tithes 450 For poor rates and taxes 400 For labor 1,750 5,100 Leaving an annual profit or balance of 3,050 The number of male hands employed, including boys, is ten. They get on the average thirty-three cents and three pints of cider each per day. In harvest the men get fifty cents per day ; these sums always including the cost of board, since in England the hands do not live in the farmer's family, as with us, but find themselves in board. The two girls in the house are paid Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271 thirty and fifty dollars per year and board. These figures were given to me by Mr. Haeding as his average result of profits. To this should be added, doubtless, the value of the food consumed in the family. No items were given for beef sold, since these were made to balance depreciation of stock, purchase of oil-cake, &c. No comment need be made on the foregoing, because among practical men each will make the necessary comparisons and draw his own conclusions as to whether his own or this is the best system of dairy farming. But if any can show a better balance sheet, in gold, from a poor farm of this size, he is doing well. CHEDDAR CHEESE-MAKING. Having described the Gloster and Wilts process of cheese-making, I will say something of the Cheddar process. The improved English Cheddar cheese is regarded by Englishmen as the finest cheese that is made anywhere. It suits the general taste better than any other description of cheese manu- factured. The fact that Cheddar always commands the highest prices ; that there is an immense demand for it ; and that its manufacture has become more scientific and thorough than that of any other kind, make it important for us to study its character. I was among the Cheddar dairymen for more than two weeks, studying the process of manufacture, and saw some of their most noted dairies. I was at Mr. Gibbon's, who was awarded the gold medal for the best dairy at the international exhibition, at Paris, and at Mr. Harding's of Marksbury, Mr. McAdam's of Gorsly Hill, Cheshire, and others, and after having seen all the difierent styles of cheese in Great Britain, I am of the opinion that the Cheddar is the only process from which American dairymen can obtain suggestions of much practical utility. I may here remark that John Bull, like his blood relation Jonathan, is a man of strong prejudices, and will often prefer a Cheddar cheese of no better quality than good American at ten to fifteen shillings per hundred weight more in price, simply because the English Cheddar has a better reputation. This feeling has very much to do in regulating the difference of price between the best samples of cheese of the two countries. But laying all prejudice aside I must, in truth, say that we have not yet been able to surpass in excel- lence the fine specimens of English Cheddar. It is a very high standard of cheese, and is deserving of all the encomiums which it has received from time to time. The quantity of extra Cheddar made in England is comparatively small, and its peculiar excellence has been rarely reached in Amei'ican dairies. Its requisites may be briefly summed up in the following points: 1. Mildness and purity of flavor ; 2. Quality, which consists of mellowness or richness under the tongue ; 3. Long keeping qualities ; 4. Solidity or freedom from eyes or holes ; 5. An economical shape as regards shrinkage, handling and cutting. It is not within the range of a brief paper like this to go minutely into all the details of Cheddar cheese-making, but rather to present points of differ- 272 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ence between their points and our own. In the first place, English dairymen have a cleaner and better flavored milk than generally obtains with us. The milking is performed with great nicety in tin pails. The milk rooms are perfect models of neatness. They have stone floors and the joints of the flagging are cemented together, so that no slops or decomposed milk can have an entrance. They are situated in a cool, airy place, and the walls are of stone or of hollow brick, thus rendering them cool and of even temperature. Every part is well ventilated, and out of the reach of disagreeable or fetid odors. The floor, the utensils and cheese aj^paratus are kept as sweet and clean as the tables and crockery of the most fastidious housekeeper. This condition of things I found universal wherever I went among the dairymen— at the royal dairy, near the Queen's palace at Windsor Castle, and radiating thence through all parts of England. Nothing connected with cheese-making abroad struck me with more force and admiration than this perfect neatness and cleanliness of the dairy. In this respect they are greatly in advance of us ; and in my opinion it is one of the chief reasons why they are able to obtain that fine, clean flavor which is a distinguished character- istic of their choice cheese. . There is nothing, perhaps, which indicates the progress and skill of our manufacturers more than the fact that they are able to take imperfect milk from the hands of patrons, manipulate it among the fetid odors of whey slops and decomposed milk, and yet turn out a cheese that will compete Avith the great bulk of English make. But these conditions will not and cannot pro- duce the fine, delicate flavor of the best Cheddar, and it is one reason why there is such a great bulk of American cheese condemned abroad as " not just right in flavor." Now this putrid inoculation does not show its Avhole character at first, but, like the insidious poison in the blood, increases from week to week, until it puts on a distinctive feature which spoils all the good material with which it comes in contact. I saw American cheese abroad, perfect in shape and color, rich in quality, splendidly manufactured, and it had a bright, handsome appearance, that would have placed it on an equality with the best in the world ; but the trier showed a flavor that could be plainly traced to a bad or imperfect condition of the milk before manipulation. I have been extremely mortified, while testing cheese abroad, to catch the taste or smell of putrid rennet and of the stables. This is one point of diflTerence between the dairy practice of the two nations. In the Cheddar process the milk is at a low temperature— from seventy-eight to eighty degrees— using some whey with the rennet, according to the condition of the milk. After coagulation is perfected, which takes from forty to sixty minutes, the curd is cut in large checks, and soon after they commence breaking with a wire breaker attached to a long handle. The breaking is at first slow and gentle, and is continued till the curd is minutely divided. This is efiected before any additional heat is applied. They claim that the curd cannot be properly broken at ninety or above ninety degrees, and Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 2T3 that there is a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd by breaking minutely at about seventy-five or eighty degi'ees without an increase of heat during the process. This process of minute breaking in the early stages of the curd appeal's to me to result in loss of butter, and this is the chief reason, I think, why Cheddars have less butter in their composition than our best American. That it does not result from inferior milk is shown from the quantity of Avhey butter manufactured. The breaking at Mr. Haeding's usually occupied a full hour. The heat is raised in scalding to one hundred degrees. Their cheese apparatus is inferior to ours, and hence I think that part of the process is not capable of being done so well as with us, since: heat is not applied so evenly to all parts of the mass ; but from this point there is a wide ditference in the treatment of the curds. When the curd has reached a firm consistency, and the whey shows a slightly acid change — a change so slight as to be detected only by the experienced observei' — it is immediately drawn and the curd heaped up in the bottom of the tub. I am not sure but this early drawing of the whey is an improvement. When in London I had some conversation with Dr. Yoelckeii, the cele- brated chemist of the Royal Agricultural Society. Among other things, he said : — " One of the greatest faults of cheese-makers is in the application of heat. Many use too high heat. The lower the temperature that can be used, and the more evenly it can be applied, the better flavor will obtain to the cheese. Another point of importance in cheese-making, and one not generally understood, is in relation to the whey. It should be drawn off, got rid of just as soon as possible, or as soon as consistent with the necessary operations." He would draw the whey sweet. The reason he gave was, that " you can never tell what matter you have or what you are dealing with in the whey. It may contain taints of the worst character. You cannot well determine the degree of its acidity, and hence great risks are run in steeping the curd for a long time in the fluid." He would prefer to draw the whey as early as possi- ble and allow the curd to undergo the proper change and arrive at maturity heaped up in the bottom of the vat. Soon after the whey is drawn and the curd heaped, it is cut across in pieces a foot or more square and thrown again in a heap to facilitate drainage and develope further acidity. It remains in this condition for half-an-hour, the whey meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out of the cheese tub and placed in the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand into thin flakes and spread out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell, and is slightly sour to the taste. It is left here to cool for fifteen minutes, when it is turned over and left for the same length of time, or until it has the peculiar mellow or flaky feel desired. It is then gathered up and put to press for ten minutes, when it is taken out, ground in a curd-mill, and salted at the rate of two pounds salt to the hundred weight (one hundred and twelve pounds) of curd. It then goes to press, and is kept under pressure two or three days. The curd, when it goes to press, has a temperature of 274 Practical Dairy Husbanbrt. from sixty to sixty-five degreees, and when it is in the sink it is preferred not to get below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during the various parts of the process, in cool weather, by throwing over it a thick cloth. It will be seen that, the whey being disposed of at an early stage, the attention of the manufacturer is to be directed only to one substance — the curd. By draining the whey and expelling it under the press, and then grinding, a uniform incorporation of this material is effected. The cooling of the curd before going to press, and the removal of the cheese after the pressure, to a cheese-room, where an even temperature is kept up, differing but little from that of the cheese when taken from the press, effects a gradual transformation of the parts into that compact, mellow, flaky condition which is characteristic of the Cheddar, and at the same time preserves its milky or nutty flavor. Now, apparently, there is nothing difficult in the process ; but the great art in this as in other methods of cheese-making, is to understand the condi- tion of the milk and the state of the curds during their various manipulations. These cannot be described, but can only be learned by experience. The pro- cess, however, is more easily acquired than that usually practiced at the factories, since the whey being got rid of, the curd is placed under better control of the operator, and the pressing, grinding and salting must, in this respect, make a more uniform product. We can scarcely yet appreciate the part that chemistry plays in the manufacture of cheese. We use a chemical agent — rennet — the nature of which even the most learned chemists do not fully understand. We note the changes that this produces in the milk and manipulate it in its new condition. We then employ heat, another agent, and develope an acid ; then another agent, salt ; and what wonder that, in all these conditions and changes, the careless and unskillful operator should fail in the quality of the article which he produces or the standard which he set's out to reach ? The most profound chemists are often thwarted in their operations by inexplicable conditions which, at first sight, seem easy of solution. Thus, for instance, take four well-known substances, viz., grape-sugar, corn-sugar, starch, and wood, each of which is made up of only three elements, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, which it must seem easy to use so that either of these substances could be converted into the others. There is very little difference, it will be seen, in the composition of any of these substances, and yet how widely different are they to our senses. It would seem a very simple thing to convert one of these substances into another by merely adding or subtrac- ting an element, yet we find that the most expert chemists experience the greatest difficulty in bringing about a result which nature is constantly accomplishing in her silent laboratories. The more we can reduce cheese- making to a science, and confine it within certain rules, the better will be our practice and the more uniform our product. It may not be advisable to adopt any one system exclusively, since fine cheese can be made by various methods ; Practical Dairy Husbandry. 275 but the study of the cheese-maker should be to seize upon a good point when- ever he can find it, and combine it in his own practice. Mr. Harding believes a sharp-cutting instrument in breaking the curd is injurious, and that the curd should be allowed to split apart according to its natural grain ; other persons in England, quite as good cheese-makers, believe in sharp-cutting imple- ments ; of these I might mention Dr. Voelcker of London, and Mr. McAdam of Gorsly Hill, who has not only written well on cheese-making, but has done much in introducing the Cheddar system into Scotland and Cheshire. Of this, however, we may assure ourselves : by no system can good cheese be made unless the manufacturer studies his business, and learns, by close appli- cation, by observation and experience, the changes that are going on in the process with the whey and curds, and can properly manipulate them. CHESHIRE CHEESE-MAKIJiTG. I suppose that many of our cheese-makers would hardly suspect that a really fine, delicious cheese could be made by the following process, which is the one in general practice in Cheshire ; and yet some of this cheese cannot be surpassed in flavor and excellence. The Cheshire mode of cheese-making is somewhat peculiar, and, to an American, would be called decidedly anti- quated. The night's milk is usually set in pans and added to the morning's mess, when it is set with rennet at a temperature of about seventy-five degrees. Often no heat is applied — the morning's milk being sufficiently warm to keep the mass up to the desired temperature for setting. After the rennet is applied, the coagulation is perfected in about an hour, when it is carefully broken up with a wire or tin curd-cutter, of similar make to the old American curd-cutter. The breaking being perfected, and the curd becoming sufficiently firm, Avithout any additional heat being applied, the whey is dipped offi The curd is then lifted into a drainer or kind of sink, where the whey can drain ofl* more thoroughly, and from time to time the curd is cut across and heaped up, so as to facilitate a more thorough separation of the whey. It is then salted, by guess, and ground in a curd-mill, when it is put into the hoop, but not immediately to press. The hoops filled with curd, are set in a warm place for a day or so, generally in a kind of oven constructed for the purpose; and, on the second day are put under press. Here they are kept several days, as in the Wiltshire and Gloucestershire districts. The hoops have no followers. They have a bottom pierced with holes, which is stationary. A strip of tin, four or five inches wide, is placed about the curd on the inside of the hoop, or above it, so as to raise the curd above the top of the hoop. A board is now thrown or placed on top of the curd, and as the press is applied, the tin sinks down with the curd until it is pressed even with the hoop. If the cheese is not found to be solid enough, another hoop of less hight, is used, and the tin put around that portion above the hoop, and pressed in a similar manner. Many of the 276 Practical Dairy Husbandry. presses are nothing but large square blocks of stone raised by a screw. They are rude affairs. The bed-pieces on some are of stone, with a flue beneath for conducting heat, in order to keep the cheese warm while pressing. The milk is worked up into curd, and the utensils cleaned up every day by twelve o'clock M. It was really a matter of surprise to find that fine cheese could be made by this process, where everything is done by guess, and where all the operations are so different from our method. But a great deal of poor cheese is made in the Cheshire dairies, and as a whole is inferior to our factory make. That which is the best is as fine in flavor and quality as any cheese made, and will command the highest prices. The texture of Cheshire cheese is diffei*ent from the Cheddar, being what is termed " open meated," that is, loose in texture without being porous. Their best cheese appears richer in butter than the Cheddar. I have merely given the outlines of the Cheshire mode of cheese making, as a matter of curiosity. In my judgment there is nothing in the process adapted to America, we being at least fifty years ahead in our appliances and mode of manufacturing. I must say this, however, in favor of Cheshire dairymen : everything connected with the dairy is kept scrupulously clean. The floors, the utensils, and every part of the dairy are sweet and clean. And here, perhaps, is the secret, or at least a part of it, of the fine, clean flavor of their best cheese. During a portion of the time the Cheshire cheese is undergoing the process of curing, the cheese is placed on straw or hay upon the floor of the curing room. APPEAEANCfi AND COMPAKATIVB MERITS OF AMERICAN CHEESE ABROAD. Having now described the manufacture of the leading styles of English cheese, it may be well to say something in regard to the appearance of Amer- ican cheese in England, and what is thought of it in the foreign markets. I went into neaiiy all the principal market towns in England from the south to the north, and heard hundreds of people discuss the merits and faults of American cheese at the storehouses, the shops and at the table. I took much pains to get at the true state of feeling in the country, and I think I may safely say that American cheese to-day, as a whole, has more quality and is better manufactured than the bulk of English cheese. I have given them the credit of producing a limited quantity of cheese of the finest type that has ever been reached by any manufacture, but the quantity is comparatively small, and when the whole bulk is considered, there is nothing like the richness and uniformity of that from our factories. This is not only my own opinion, but that of many of the best judges of cheese in Great Britain. I have been at hotels where American cheese is always pur- chased in preference to English, and I have been amused to hear Englishmen contend that no such cheese could be produced in America, and nowhere else except in the best dairies of England, but who were forced to give way on Practical Dairy Husbandry. 271 pointing out to them the bandage, which is an indisputable proof of American manufacture. Country dealers, cotters, middlemen, and shippers, admit that the highest grades of our factory cheese have more quality and are superior to the general run of English make. I have often heard dealers declare in a spirit of vexation that if the Amer- icans continue to progress in the ratio of the last foiu- years, two or three years more will place their cheese at the top of the market, and English make must rank secondary. They say the Cheshire dairymen are " dough-heads " not to try to keep pace with modern improvements. I have seen a dealer look at American and English cheese side by side, and while admitting that the American was in every resjDect the best, take the English at a higher price, because, as he said, some of his customers had such foolish prejudices that they would not try the American, and therefore could not judge of its quality. A leading dealer in Manchester told me he had many times tried to introduce American cheese among certain of his customers, and that they would not purchase. By and by, when they sent up an order, he would slip in a few of nice gi*ade factory' make, and after that the customer would be eager to purchase, declaring he never cut up better cheese. Now, this is the condition of things all over England ; there is prejudice to overcome, because formerly our cheese was of bad character, and there is a feeling that it is of such perishable nature that it will spoil if not immediately consumed. These remarks apply to the nice grades of cheese. There is another class of our cheese which comes into market that does great injury to sales. It is cheese that is rich and well made but of bad flavor. This, and large shipments of inferior make,the accumulated refuse from good and indif- ferent lots which cannot be sold alone, are mixed up with good samples and shipped abroad to clean out New York storehouses. These lots drag on the market ; they are constantly accumulating, and sales are forced, which breaks the market, besides carrying a prejudice where- ever they go, against American cheese. As to the outward appearance of American cheese, as I saw it abroad, it is generally good. Of course some of it comes to hand soft, melted, and in wretched condition, but generally the great bulk of factory make comes in store quite as bright and handsome as does the English manufacture. Many of the large dealers told me they had never had American cheese come to market with handsomer outward appearance than this year's (1866) make. And I think in getting the comparative merits of the cheese of the two nations we have often been misled and wrongly informed. Great condemnation has been made of our poor cheese, all of which was well deserved, but while great stress has been laid upon this, there has been a studied care to conceal the merits of our best goods. This is but natural. Men engage in the cheese trade to make money ; they run great risks, and cannot be expected to post others up to their own disadvantage. The laws of trade are " to buy cheap and sell dear ;" and so, after all, perhaps, they are not so much to blame. 278 Practical Dairy Husbandry, Some of the dealers, acting in concert with, parties in New York, take great pains to keep factories which make prime cheese, in ignorance of the fact. The factory names are erased from the boxes, and so customers are supplied with a line of cheese which they can only trace to the private brand of the dealer. Some have acquired in this way an enviable reputation for handling choice American cheese, and have made largely by the practice. It is a great damage to the factories, since other dealers are kept ignorant of the brands, and cannot enter into competition for the purchase, I know of no way for this to be remedied except by branding the name of the factory on the bandage. Perhaps a good way also would be to have the name of the factory neatly cut in rather broad letters upon the pressing follower, so that the cheese when pressed will show the name of the factory in raised letters. There is no difficulty in this, and no hurt will result to the cheese. I have seen samples of English cheese where elaborate figures were raised upon the surface in the manner suggested, but I would not advise any " gingerbread work " — nothing but plain carving. STYLES OF CHEESE DEMANDED. The styles of cheese demanded for the trade will depend somewhat upon the market for which they are intended. In London small Cheddar shapes of forty, fifty, sixty, and seventy pounds are popular, and will command an extra price over cheese of large size of the same quality. The true Cheddar shape is fifteen and a-half inches in diameter by twelve inches in hight, and by preserving this proportion for larger or smaller cheese that style is obtained. Cheddars are made varying in size from those named up to eighty and one hundred pounds, but the larger are not so common. A limited number of those weighing one hunded pounds would readily find sale. Those weighing about seventy pounds are not objectionable, but the smaller sizes are of readier sale, and often on account of their size bring better prices. It costs more, however, to manufacture small cheeses, and there is greater loss in shrinkage ; and this ought to enter into the account in determining the size that will be most profitable. It would be well for factories to make two sizes of Cheddars, regulating each somewhat in accordance with their own con- venience. The Cheddar shapes are popular all over England, and therefore may be regarded as best adapted as a general rule for our factories to make for exportation. There is another style called the Derby shape, which, when made of fine quality, brings the highest prices. It is a small, flat cheese, fourteen to fifteen inches in diameter, and two and a-half to three inches thick, and weighing twenty-five to thirty pounds. If care be taken in boxing, two cheeses might be put in a box, and thus the expense on that score lessened. There should be two heavy scale boards between the cheese, and none but well-made, substantial boxes used. There is a moderate demand for our old-fashioned shaped cheese — that is, a cheese half as high as its diameter, and weighing Practical Dairy Husbandry. 279 from sixty to eighty pounds, but it should not exceed one hundred pounds. In Livei'pool a variety of styles are worked oif readily. Several of the dealers there told me they had no difficulty in disposing of cheese weighing one hundred and twenty pounds to one hundred and fifty pounds, providing it was all right as to quality and flavor ; but I am satisfied, after going among the country dealers in difierent parts of England, that preference is always given to cheese of smaller size when the other qualities are satisfactory. COLOR. The matter of color is a question which has long occupied the attention of American dairymen, and upon which very indistinct notions have been entertained. This is not to be wondered at when the different markets in England give preference to a variety of shades, and different dealers ask only for the color of their particular market. The Londoner likes a cheese of con- sidei'able color, something like the rich shade of butter made when the dande- lions are in bloom. It must be clear and pure ; not lemony or dirty, or mot- tled through the cheese, but a rich shade of cream that gives a pleasing effect to the eye, thus serving to highten the imagination that a delicious morsel is before you. London is the grand metropolis of the world, where wealth is unbounded. The best articles of food readily find a market here, and command the highest prices of any in the kingdom. If they can only get the hest they are willing to pay for it, and this is the reason why choice cheese never goes begging at top prices. When I went through the Manchester cheese markets they told me that colored cheese was a drug and did not suit that market. A very extensive dealer had just returned from Liverpool disappointed in not obtain- ing a supply of pale-colored cheese. In prices, quality and shaj^e, he said, there was no difficulty in being suited, but his customers insisted upon an uncolored article, and as that was not to be had he did not purchase. It was in this man's storehouses that I saw some of the Herkimer county, New York, "coarse curds," and they were commended for their texture and quality. There are large quantities of pale-colored cheese made in England, and con- siderable of the high-priced Cheddar has no color except that which results from the natural condition of the milk. I went down to Chippenham to see the great annatto manufacturer, Mr. Nichols. His preparation bears the reputation of the best in England, and I thought it might be worth while to have him send over samples, and thus have an article that was approved by English dealers. Mr. Nichols was willing to send out samples on my assurance that they would be properly distributed ; but when I reached London I learned from the chemists a secret which is worth a good many thousand dollars to American dairymen. It is, that all preparations of annatto depend for their excellence, not so much upon any patent for dissolving or cutting the crude annatto as upon the purity of the annatto itself. All the best English liquid annatto is cut with potash, so 280 Practical Dairy Husbandry. that American dairymen can just as well make their own coloring material as to send abroad at great expense for the English ai'ticle. But it is important that we obtain Sl pure article, and this can only be secured by purchasing of a reliable person who is a good judge of it. If you use a bad article you are sure to get a bricky, uneven color, which is so objectionable, and which reduces the price of cheese. BANDAGES, BOXES, ETC. In regard to bandaging and boxing I may remark that no cheese should be made in America for shipping abroad without having a bandage upon it, and without being put up in a strong box with heavy scale boards. I have seen considerable quantities of English cheese in the storehouses split open at the sides, a prey to skippers, and upon which losses were sustained. The Cheddar dairymen put a coarse linen bandage upon their cheese during the process of curing. It is brought round tight and temporarily secured. Some work eyelet holes at the ends of the bandage and bring it snugly about the cheese by lacing, as you would fasten a shoe upon the foot. These bandages are stripped off when the cheese goes to market. The cheeses would be better protected if they had permanent bandages, on our plan, and some of the English dairymen advocate its introduction in their dairies. By not bandaging something might, perhaps, occasionally be gained in helping the English dealer to deceive his customers by palming off our cheese as of English manufacture ; but good factories would lose their iden- tity, and the loss from breakage and other sources would overbalance by far, this advantage. Besides, it should be our object to make for American cheese a reputation that shall stand unchallenged as the best in the world. DEFECTS IJf AMEEICAIf CHEESE BAD FLAVOR, ETC. We come to •consider the two leading defects in American cheese — porosity and bad flavor ; and the last may be said to-day to overbalance all the other defects put together, two or three times over. I need not waste time upon that character of cheese known as soft, spongy, or salvy, or the poor grades which come from carelessness, inefficiency, or ignorance in manufacture. Good cheese-makers knoAV at once how these may be corrected, but I refer to the better class of cheese made at factories. The English acknowledge that the American factories stand unrivaled as sending out a cheese full of meat — that is, full of butter or rich in quality. They speak in high terms of the improvements that have been made in texture, firmness and solidity ; but to see a cheese handsome in appearance, the meat having scarcely any objec- tionable feature to the eye or finger, yet tinder the nose a disagreeable odor, is what they cannot well understand. The large exportation of this poor, indifferent, or bad-flavored cheese, more than anything else, breaks prices and does immense damage. The causes of bad flavor in cheese are various — insufficient and uneven salting; a faulty separation of the whey from the curds before going to Practical Dairy Husbandry. 281 press and while pressing ; putting the curds to press hot ; high heat and a rapid manipulation of the curds, getting them in press before the proper chemical changes have been effected ; but the chief causes of bad flavor in well-manufactured cheese, as I saw it abroad, are, in my opinion, bad milk, bad rennet, and bad curing of the cheese. I am satisfied that the cool, even climate in England, and the excellent condition of the milk, together with the uniform temperature of their curing rooms, enable them to succeed where we often fail. We have a hot-bed climate to contend with, and milk is often spoiled when it reaches the factory. If our dairy farmers would only look upon this matter in its proper light, instead of laying all the blame of bad-flavored cheese upon the manufacturer, there would be some hope of improvement. They send to the factory tainted milk and demand from it a perfect cheese. They impose upon the manufacturer conditions which no skill has yet been able to surmount. High skill and great experience in manipu- lating milk, together with favorable weather, and the putting the cheese in market at the right moment, may enable the manufacturer to counteract in part the faults of tainted milk ; but with intensely hot weather, and under unfavorable circumstances, it is beyond his art. Bad rennet and tainted milk are prominent causes of the early decay of our cheese. We are told that American cheese will decay early. I have seen American cheese in England more than a year old, perfect in flavor and in the best pres- ervation, but it was not made in hot weather. The cheese made in July this year, 1866, and sent to England, was all of it, more or less of bad flavor. The complaint was universal, and against some of the most noted factories in America. We must look upon these things from the practical side. I will not deceive the dairymen of America with a fine-spun theory. We have been greatly led astray in regard to this matter of flavor — led to believe that the people of the Old World had discovered some wonderful process which would ensure a perfect cheese under all conditions of the milk ; but I found the leading feature of their success was in cleanliness and an untainted condition of the milk. It is well known that milk not divested of its animal odor, and closely confined in hot weather, soon becomes putrid. Cheese manufacturers tell me that milk often comes to the factory having a most fetid and sickening odor. In extremely hot weather, when cows have been exercised or unduly excited the milk is often of a rank odor as soon as drawn. The practice of putting warm milk in tight cans and conveying it a long distance to the factory is objectionable, especially in hot weather. Here is the commencement of bad flavor. The good milk is inoculated with putrid matter, which shows itself sooner or later, and carries with it decay like any other decomposition. Some plan should be adopted for cooling the milk, or exposing it so that the animal odor may pass off, especially in hot, sultry weather. I feel certain, from my observations both here and abroad, that this is a leading cause of bad flavor, and hence the practice of the Cheddar dairymen in getting rid of the whey 282 Pe ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. as early as possible, and the exposure of the curd a long time to the atmos- phere, is founded upon philosophical principles. It is important to the dairy- interest of America that a reputation be maintained for producing the finest- flavored and best cheese made in the world, and, under our improved system of manufacture, with proper care as to the purity of milk, this will be of easy accomplishment. Again, the cheese-producing sections of the Union are being developed so rapidly that competition every year must be greater and greater. Every factory should now establish a reputation for "extra fine goods." They should keep the best manufacturers in the country. Make it an inducement for them to stay with you. High skill and experience command ample remu- neration the world over. Old and established factories can aflEbrd to pay for it, rather than let new districts pick ofi" their best cheese-makers. The London dealers complain that there is too little probability of factories sending forward a uniform brand of prime cheese year after year. They want a brand that can be relied upon, and when they find such will pay an extra price for it. The curing rooms ought to be arranged so that the temperature may be controlled. The curing rooms of England have walls of stone or hollow brick. The climate is cooler, more moist and less variable than ours. These facts ought to afford suggestions in the construction of our curing-houses. There is another way in which flavor is lost ; the shipment of cheese in hot weather, to lie in New York until heated through and through, and then stowing away in the vessel with cargoes of grain, oil-cakes, or some other freight from which taints are absorbed. Much of our nice cheese is injured in this. way. In Bristol, Bath, London, Chester, Liverpool, Manchester— in fact, all over England, the commercial storehouses for cheese are well con- structed for the purpose of preserving flavor. They have stone floors, are cool and well ventilated. Cheese that comes in bad condition is often taken out of the boxes, or the covers removed, and then laid upon the floor to cool. The fine compact texture of English cheese, in my opinion, results, in a great measure, from their process of expelling the whey, grinding in the curd- mill, salting and pressing. I may remark that while porousness is an objec- tion, if the texture is not of a honey-comh character, but will fill the trier with a tolerably compact mass, dealers do not urge a reduction of price, if the flavor and quality are perfect. Extreme porosity shows a defect in manufac- ture, and carries with it the impression that the cheese will sooner go to decay, and is therefore dangerous to handle, requiring quick sales. THE PROSPECTS OF THE ENGLISH MARKET. In closing, a word may be ofiered in reference to the prospect of future exportation and prices. The English are a great cheese-eating people. We have no conception of the extent to which this food enters into general con- sumption. Those who can afford to eat a good article purchase the best, and the poor take up with that which is inferior and bad. I have seen tons and Practical Dairy Husbandry. 283 tons of the most worthless stuff, apparently fit only for the pigs, in the shops and public markets, and it had a rapid sale. The cutters are extremely expert. They use a thin, circular knife, like a half moon, having an upright handle springing from the centre, and with this they cut the cheese upon the counter. They also use a fine wire, witk handles at each end, for splitting a lai'ge cheese. I have been surprised at the accuracy with which they will cut the different weights. The crumbs are laid on one side, to be used for balancing the scales. There is an immense demand for inferior or low-priced cheese. If we could manufacture cheese so as to sell on the counter at four- pence to sixpence per j^ound, I think they would take our whole product. Cheese does not come upon the table with pastry, as with us, but is brought on as a separate and last course. A half or a quarter of a cheese, placed upon a silver dish, with a clean, white napkin under it, is set upon the table and cut as desired. I think there must be a good foreign demand for American cheese for some years to come. The production has been cut off in the north- ern districts of England. The cattle plague has been terrible in its ravages through this section. In Cheshire and the adjoining counties the losses have been fearful. The Cheshire people feel very melancholy, and many of the farmers are unable to pay their rents. Some of them are trying sheep- farming, but with indifferent results. They have been long a dairy people and understand the management of cows. I am convinced they will go back to dairy farming when the cattle plague shall be effectually eradicated — and that appears now to be almost accomplished — but they will hardly get estab- lished again for a year or two. They will not abandon dairying till we can furnish cheese so cheaply as to drive them from the mai'ket. The cost of transportation and the high prices of labor, and heavy taxation, are against the production of a cheap cheese on this side, at least in the older States. Holland, too, enters into competition with us. She is now shipping to England 80,000,- 000 pounds of cheese per annum. Last year (1865) the quantity imported was nearly 73,000,000 pounds. The passage can be made in a day, and the cost of exportation is a mere trifiie. Their cheese is very good, but not equal to ours ; but they are improving every year in quality. They make three styles of cheese, which are popular among the poorer classes. The Edams and Middlebaes are round, like a cannon ball, and weigh from six to twelve pounds. The Goudars are a small, flat cheese, of about twenty pounds weight. The agricultural laborers like Edams, as they can take a cheese into the field and cut it without waste. These cheeses sell at from eight to ten shillings per hundred weight, below American. There is less difference between the Derby Goudar and the American, the former often selling within four shillings of the price of ours. Our futm-e successes will depend upon our making fine cheese, and getting it to market at cheap rates. Something might be done in opening up new markets. The English export cheese to Australia, the Cape of Good Hope, Brazil, and various other points.. Something should be done by the cheese 284 Practical Dairy Husbandry. makers and shippers in the way of regulating exportations. If we could give England a steady supply, without pushing forward an immense quantity to clog the market, prices would be maintained, and greater profits realized. The following table gives the iiiunber of packages of cbeese shipped from New Yorlt to Liverpool, from May, 1862, to September, 1866, made up so that the comparative weeidy shipments of the different years may be seen at a glance : Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool. Week Ending 1862. Packages. Packages. 1864. Packages. May June July August 15. 22. 29. September 5. 12. 19 26. October 3 . 10. 17. 24 31. November 7. 14. 21. 28. December 5 12. 19. 26 January 16. 23. 30. February 6. 13. 20. 27. March April 2. 9. 16. 23. 80. Total,. 2,120 857 1,726 1,202 1,643 3,280 6,362 7,756 7,107 13,441 6.961 27,483 35,195 5,485 37,309 24,449 30,315 19,255 24,442 14,1.30 8,146 24,203 15,038 18,886 11,558 24,. 302 24,196 13,705 18,840 938 8,450 8,329 9,843 1863. 12,141 3,475 7,296 14,122 886 9,587 1,295 1,798 929 4,164 3,428 1,454 4,166 4,348 11,762 2,742 3,842 5,975 19,041 54,992 102,438 88,142 69,811 73,043 27,560 37,034 13,566 9,975 26,860 528,427 3,692 1,942 9,364 4,446 3,040 12,174 8,744 17,456 22,896 17,032 29,561 19,153 16,316 22,024 27,378 13,342 11,650 11,068 16.540 19,816 18,670 18,582 31,104 21,792 38,714 26,082 22,818 17,706 10,110 20,115 12,485 12,787 10,268 5,533 1864. 5,971 11,963 2,216 2,632 7,834 6,423 10,834 4.813 16,479 5,583 770 13,202 7,558 2,987 13,470 5,072 2,037 2,886 19,444 41,414 88,642 90,710 66,094 136,274 70,749 41,073 30,616 38,549 27,113 26,432 677,110 2,261 1,539 1,323 3,268 4,374 6,897 5,232 10,090 24,090 29,886 47,944 33,103 38,170 20,447 16,669 22,817 18,211 15,396 14,544 19,457 24,293 15,250 18,805 12,406 20,653 25,542 24,674 23,700 15,369 24,921 11,794 8,496 11,919 9,901 1865. 2,975 8,623 20,081 19,156 2,685 4,851 16,069 5,689 15,658 2,718 894 13,901 2,770 2,213 4,412 4,199 3,745 976 PRACTICA.L Dairy Husbandry. 285 "Weekly Exports of cheese from New York to Liverpool— C(9nnSTAK:ES HADE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHEESE BEFORE THE CURD IS SEPARATED. The inferior character, and especially the bad flavor, of cheese OAves its origin in many cases to a want of proper care in handling the milk from which it has been made. Milk sometimes gets spoiled by dirty fingers before it passes into the pail. If the vessels in which the milk is kept in the dairy have been carelessly washed, and the milk-pails and cheese-tub have not been well scrubbed, but merely been washed out, and if especially the dairy uten- sils have not been scalded Avith boiling-hot water, it is vain to expect that cheese of th« finest quality can be made, let the milk be ever so ricli in cream. The neglect of these simple but important precautions soon manifests itself in a dairy by a peculiar ferment which taints tlie whole milk, and afterwards affects the flavor and consequently the quality of the cheese. Cleanliness, indeed, may be said to be the first qualification of a good dairywoman. The nature of every ferment is to produce in other matters with which it comes into contact certain chemical changes depending on its own character. Thus a little yeast produces in fermentable liquids large quantities of alcohol and carbonic acid ; acid ferments containing acetic or lactic acid have a ten- dency to generate vinegar or lactic acid in other liquids. A small piece of putrefying meat in contact with a large mass of sound flesh soon spreads putrefaction over the entire mass ; and other ferments act in a similar man- ner. "Such ferments generally produce in other matters with which they are brought into contact changes similar to those which they themselves undergo. The disagreaable smell of dirty or badly cleaned milk-pails and cheese-tubs is due to a peculiar ferment, which is rapidly formed, especially in warm weather, when milk is left in contact with air and with the porous wood of the cheese-tub and milk-pails. In the rapid process of vinegar manufacture a weak alcoholic liquid is allowed to trickle through a barrel perforated all over Avith holes to admit the air, and filled Avith Avood shavings. If the tem- perature of the room in Avhich the vinegar casks are put up is sufiiciently high, the alcohol, in trickling over these shavings Avhen in contact with abundance of air, undergoes a complete transformation, and collects rapidly at the bottom of the cask as vinegar. But such a change does not take place if the alcoholic liquid is left for ever so long in a clean cask filled Avith such a liquid. Contact Avith air, subdivision of the liquid into drops, and the pres- ence of the porous wood shavings, are necessary for the transformation. These casks do not at first produce vinegar as rapidly as after they have been in use some time and become thoroughly soaked with vinegar ferment. And this is another peculiarity of all ferments, that, under favorable circumstances, they reproduce themselves from other materials in immense quantities. Thus fresh and active yeast is generated in great abundance in fermenting malt liquor, while the original yeast employed in brcAving is more or less decom- posed and becomes what is called inactive yeast. These chemical facts, well Practical Dairy Husbandry. 313 known to the manufacturers of vinegar and to the intelligent brewer, have a direct bearing on cheese making. At the very beginning of her operations a good dairy woman unconsciously carries on a steady and constant battle with these remarkable ferments, and it is very interesting to the chemist to see her proceed in the most rational and 23hilosophical manner. No milk is admitted into the cheese-tub before it has been carefully strained through a cloth, lest a little bit of dead leaf or any similar matter, accidentally blown into the milk in its passage from the milking place to the dairy, should spoil the flavor of the cheese. No sooner has the cheese left the tub than she begins to pour scalding water into it, to scrub it, and to make it as clean and sweet as i^ossible. In good dairies no utensil is allowed to remain for a moment dirty, but hot water and clean brushes are always close at hand to scrub the pails and make them almost as white as snow. The dairywoman probably knows nothing about the nature of the ferment, which is rapidly formed when a little milk is left at the bottom and adhering to the sides of the wooden milk pails ; she is unconscious that here, as in the vinegar process, the conditions most favorable to chemical change are present, and that the sugar of the milk, in contact with plenty of air and porous wood, is rapidly changed into lactic acid, while at the same time a peculiar milk ferment is produced ; all this may be a jjerfect mystery to her, but, never- theless, guided by experience, she thoroughly avoids everything that favors the production of ferment, or taint, as she calls it, by leaving no vessel uncleaned, by scalding all that have been in use with boiling water, and if ever so little milk be accidentally spilt on the floor of the dairy, taking care that it is at once removed, and the spot where it fell washed with clean water. It is, indeed, surprising how small a quantity of ferment taints a large quantity of milk. The most scrupulous cleanliness, therefore, is brought into constant play by a good dairywoman, who never minds any amount of trouble in scalding and scrubbing her vessels, and takes pride, as soon as possible after her cheeses are safely lodged in the presses, in having the dairy look as clean and tidy as the most fastidious can wish. It is a pleasure to see one of these hard-working women at work, especially as such a sight is not often witnessed, slovenly dairymaids being unfortunately in a majority. This being the case, we should encourage the use of tin pails and tin or brass cheese tubs. Wooden pails, &c., are very good in the hands of a tidy dairy- maid, but not otherwise. There is much less labor in thoroughly cleaning a tin or brass vessel than a wooden one, and boiling-hot Avater is not then required. Wood, being a porous material, inevitably absorbs more or less of the milk ; tin or brass does not. The milk thus absorbed cannot be removed by simple washing. Inasmuch as all ferments are destroyed by water at the temperature of 212°, it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly boiling ; and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking, 314 Practical Dairy Husbandry. though they may have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty when the kettle is really boiling. This remark applies to some educated as well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing noise of the tea- kettle accompanied by a certain amount of vapor for a sign that water is in a state of ebullition ; so that if you would drink good tea you must be careful to whom you trust to make it. In some dairies of Cheshire it is customary to paint the wooden cheese tubs in the interior. I confess I do not like this at all; lead paint is not a very desirable thing to be used in connection with cheese; and I am glad to find that the best dairy farmers are decidedly averse to this proceeding. * Milk sometimes gets tainted by the close proximity of pig-sties or water- closets, or by underground drains. Not very long ago I visited a dairy in Wiltshire, where every possible care was taken by the dairymaid to produce good cheese ; but I noticed a peculiarly disagreeable smell in the dairy, and on making inquiries I found that there was a cesspool close at hand, which certainly tainted the mill:, and rendered the making of good cheese an impos- sibility. In the third place, I would notice that if dairies are not well situ- ated,— if they have, for instance, a south aspect, so that a proper low temper- ature in summer cannot be maintained,— the milk is apt to turn sour and to make sour cheese. It is important, therefore, that dairies should be built with a northei'n aspect. These are some of the circumstances that spoil the cheese even before it is separated from the milk. The remedies are obvious. It is only with respect to the latter point— that of milk getting sour, that I would offer a few observations. If the situation of the dairy is bad, and a new dairy cannot be erected, we should employ all possible means to prevent the milk from getting warm. We should keep it in shallow tins or leads, or, better still, as I have seen in some parts of Somersetshire, in shallow tin vessels with a double bot- tom, through which cold water may be run during the warm part of the sea- son. By this means we can keep the milk at a considerably lower tempera- ture than we should otherwise be able to do. Having seen nitre and salt used with great advantage to prevent cream from turning sour, I would further suggest that they might probably be found serviceable in the same manner for the keeping of milk if used in moderate quantities. Some people, how- ever, maintain that milk requires to become sour before it can properly be made into cheese. A great deal has been said and written with respect to the great utility to the dairymen of an instrument by means of which the amount of acid in sour milk might be accurately and readily determined. A careful study of the action of rennet on milk, however, has led me to the conclusion that the more carefully milk is prevented from getting sour, and, consequently the less opportunity there is for the use of an acidometer, the more likely the cheese is to turn out good. Indeed, the acidometer appears to me a useless instrument— a scientific toy which can never be turned to any practical account. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 315 If by accident the milk has become sour, the fact soon manifests itself suffi- ciently to the taste. An experienced dairymaid will even form a tolerably good opinion of the relative proportions of acid in the milk on different days and arrange her proceedings accordingly. Moreover, the knowledge of the precise amount of acid in the milk does not help us much. When milk has turned sour, the best thing to do is to hasten on the process of cheese-making as much as possible. II. PKACTICAL FAUI^S COMMITTED DUEING THE MAKING OF CHEESE. 1. Under the second head I would observe, first, that sufficient care is not bestowed upon noticing the temjDcrature at which the milk is " set," or " run," as it is called in Gloucestershire. Thermometers, indeed, are seldom in use. Even where they are hung up in the dairy, they are more frequently regarded as curious but useless ornaments than trustworthy guides, and therefore are seldom put into requisition. In fact, most dairymaids are guided entirely by their own feelings ; and as these are as variable as those of other mortals, the temperature of the milk when it is " set " (that is where the rennet is added) is often either too high or too low. They mostly profess to know the tem- perature of the milk to a nicety, and feel almost insulted if you tell them that much less reliance can be placed on the indications of ever so experienced a hand than upon an instrument which contracts and expands according to a fixed law, uninfluenced by the many disturbing causes to which a living body is necessarily subjected. It is really amusing to see the animosity with which some people look upon the thermometer. It is true that there are not many dairies in which it may not be found ; but if we took pains to ascertain in how many of these it is in constant use, I believe that the proportion would not exceed five per cent. This is a great pity, for a tolerably good one can now be bought or replaced at a trifling cost. I have spoken frankly but unfavorably of the acidometer. With equal frankness I express my regret that the use of the thermometer is not more general, as I believe it is indispensable for obtaining a uniformly good product. If the temperature of the milk when the rennet is added, is too low, the curd remains too soft, and much difficulty is experienced in separating the whey. If, on the other hand, the temperature is too high, the separation is easily effected, but the curd becomes hard and dry. The amount of water which is left in the curd when it is ready to go into the cheese-presses, to some extent indicates whether a proper temperature has been employed. When this has been too low, the curd will contain more than fifty per cent, of mois- ture ; when too high, sometimes less than thirty-six per cent. How variable is this proportion of water (chiefly due to the whey in the curd) will appear from the following determinations made in the same dairy on the four follow- ing days : 316 Practical Dairy Husba^^dry. amount of water in curd when ready to go into the vat. Percentage of water iu 1st Ciieese ,^f.o " 2d Cheese 41 4Q " " 3d Cheese SR 20 " 4LhCheese '•■'■^•^^^^^^"''^^'^.^m In this dairy the thermometer was not in daily use, and the heat employed m makmg the fourth cheese was evidently too high, for in good Cheddar when ready for sale the amount of moisture is hardly less than in this curd when put into the vat. The cheese from these four specimens of curd was made according to the Cheddar system. Five other specimens gave the fol- lowmg proportions of water : PERCENTAGE OP WATER IN CURD WHEN READY TO GO INTO THE VAT. 1st specimen, percentage of water 5957 2d " " « f' „ 56.93 .„ „ 53.40 ff " " 5280 '''' " " " 50.01 These were produced according to the custom of Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, at a temperature varying from 72= to 75°; but, not having taken the observations myself, I am unable to speak more precisely. This much, however, is quite certain, that the lower temperature at which the cheese is usually made in Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, when compared with the Cheddar system, fully accounts for the large proportion of water that is found in curd made after the Gloucester or Wiltshire fashion. The cheese made from these five curds was best at the dairy in which I found the lowest proportion of water in the curd. The differences here noticed, however, are due not only to the higher or lower temperature employed, but also to the ti-ouble and the time bestowed in breaking up the curd. Other circumstances being equal, the more thoroughly curd is broken up, and the longer time is occupied in this process, the more whey will pass out, and the better the cheese is likely to become. I consider fifty per cent, of moisture rather under the average, and fifty-three to fifty-four per cent, a proper quantity of water to be contained in the curd when it is vatted to form a thin or moder- ately thick cheese. In making thick cheese, it should not have more than forty-five per cent of moisture. Fifty-seven or fifty-nine and a-half per cent., the proportions of water in the first and second specimens of curd, are too high even for a thin cheese. Curd being a very peculiar and delicate substance, which is greatly affected by the temperature to which it is exposed, I directed some special experiments to the investigation of its properties. First, I coagulated new milk at 60' Fahrenheit, and found that at such a low temperature it took three hours to complete the process, though the rennet was added in a very large excess. The curd remained tender, and the whey could not be properly separated. Milk at 65° F., on addition of rennet, curdled in two hours ; but Practical Dairy Husbandry. 317 the curd, as before, remained tender, even after long standing. At 70° to 72° F. it only took from one-half to three-quarters of an hour, and the curd now separated in a more compact condition. The process was more expe- ditions, and the curd in better condition, when the temperature ranged from 80° to 84°. At 90° the rennet curdled the milk in twenty minutes, and at 100° F. an excess of rennet coagulated the milk in about a quarter of an hour, separating the curd in a somewhat close condition. By heating the curd in the whey to 130° F., I find it gets so soft that it runs like toasted cheese, and becomes quite hard on cooling. The limits of temperature between which curd can be improved and deteriorated in texture are there- fore not very wide. The exact temperature to be adopted depends upon the description of cheese that is wanted — a lower range, e. g. 72° to 75°, being desirable when a thin cheese is made ; while for tinck cheese, such as Ched- dar, it should vary from 80° to 84°; 80° being best adapted to warm weather, and a little increase in the heat desirable in the cold season. After a portion of the whey has been separated, it is advisable to scald the curd and to raise the temperature of the whole contents of the cheese-tub to 95° or 100°, but certainly not higher. I have seen much injury done to cheese by using too high a temperature in the making. Secondly, apart from this influence of temperature, cheeses are often deteriorated by the frequently imperfect separation of the whey from the curd ; by hurrying on too much the operation of breaking ; and by too great an anxiety to get the curd vatted. The whey requires time to drain off properly, and hence the Somersetshii-e plan is a good one — to expose the curd for some time to the air, after it has been sufficiently broken and been gathered again and cut in slices of moderate size. A great deal of whey runs off, and the curd, moreover, is cooled, and runs less risk of heating too much after it leaves the presses. When the whey has been ill-separated from the curd, no amount of press- ure will squeeze out the excesss of whey, which then causes the cheese to heave and blister, and imparts to it a somewhat sweet and at the same time strong taste. This taste is always found in an ill-shaped cheese, which bulges out at the sides, the interior of which will be found to be full of cavities, and far from uniform in texture. Many cheeses imported from America are evi- dently spoiled in this way, for they are often full of holes, have a strong smell, and contain too much moisture — sure indications that the whey was not pi'operly sepai'ated. The sweet taste is given to the cheese by part of the sugar of milk, of which a good deal is found in whey ; another portion of this, on entering into fermentation, foi-ms, among other products, carbonic acid gas, which, in its endeavor to escape, heaves up the semi-solid curd, and causes it to blister, producing the numerous apertures of considerable size which are found in badly-made cheese. If the cheese is colored with annatto, the excess of whey at the same time causes a partial separation of the color- ing matter, so that more color collects in some parts than in others, and the 318 Practical Dairy Husbandry. cheese assumes that unequal condition in which it is called tallowy. A uni- form color and perfect shape are therefore to a certain extent indications of a superior quality ; while mottled, mis-shaped cheese, almost invariably proves tallowy, and in flavor, sweet when young, and very strong when older. The danger of leaving too much whey in the curd is especially great in warm weather, for it is then that the fermentation of the sugar of milk proceeds most rapidly. There are three precautions to be taken against an undue proportion of whey in the curd : 1. Plenty of time should be allowed for the whey to drain off properly. 2. Before the rennet is added, the milk should be heated to a temperature of 72° to 75° for thin, or of 80® to 84° for thick cheese. 3. The best preventive is the practice of slip-scalding, as it is called. The operation, which is highly recommended by Mr. Harding, one of our best Cheddar cheese-makers, and extensively practised in Somersetshire, consists of heating a portion of the whey, and adding it or hot water to the curd, while it is still covered with some of the whey, until the temperature of the whole be raised to from 95° to 100°. This has the effect of making the curd run together into a much smaller compass, and enables the dairymaid to draw off the whey more perfectly and with very much less trouble than by the common method. If well done, no injury, but every advantage, results from this practice. The curd, when slip-scalded, settles down very readily, and its closer condition implies that it does not contain so much whey as it did before scalding. Hence, no skewers are required to drain off the whey from cheese that has been slip-scalded, and a great deal of subsequent labor and anxiety is avoided by this simple process. Slip-scalding, however, ought to be carefully performed, and the hot whey or water poured slowly upon the curd by one person, while another stirs up the contents of the cheese-tub, so as to ensure a uniform temperature throughout. The necessity for these pre- cautions will be best understood from the following explanation : When curd broken up and cut into slices, is suddenly and incautiously scalded with boil- ing water, the outer layer of the slices first melts and then becomes hard, enveloping the interior, which remains quite soft and full of whey. This hard covering acts like a waterproof wrapper, and prevents the escape of the whey, however strongly the curd may be pressed afterwards; hence the importance of a gradual and careful admixture of the hot whey. Better still is it to employ one of Coquet's jacketed tin or brass cheese-tubs, into the hollow bottom of which steam may be let in, and the curd and whey be raised by degrees to the desired temperature. This utensil is to be strongly recommended to all who adopt the Cheddar mode of cheese-making in their dairies. Cheese is also spoiled by breaking up the curd too rapidly and carelessly. This delicate substance requires to be handled by nimble and experienced fingers, and to have a great amount of patient labor bestowed upon it. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 319 Daii-ymaids, as a class, break up the curd in far too great a hurry. In conse- quence of their careless treatment some portions of the curd are broken into fragments so small that they pass into the Avhey when this is drawn off, while others are not sufficiently broken up and remain soft. The result is, that the curd is not uniform in texture, and that less cheese and of inferior quality is produced than when the curd is first cut very gently into large slices, and then broken up by degrees either by hand or machinery into small fragments. COMPOSITION OF WHEY. No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. 92.95 .65 92.65 .68 92.60 .55 92.75 .39 1.20 .81 .96 .87 4.55 .65 5.28 .58 5.08 .81 5.13 .86 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 .19 .48 .13 .41 .15 .36 5.14 .41 No. 5. Water, Butter (pure fatty matters), *Nitrogeiious substances (caseine and al- } bnmen, f fMilk-siigar and lactic acid, Mineral matter (ash), *Containing nitrogen, fContaining free lactic acid,. 92.950 .490 1.425 4.491 .644 100.000 .228 .120 No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. No. 9. No. 10. "Water, Butter (pure fatty matters), *Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al- bumen, fMilk-sugar and lactic acid Mineral matters (ash), 92.95 .29 1.01 5.08 .67 93.150 .546 1.056 4.662 .586 92.95 .24 .81 5.27 .73 93.30 .31 1.01 4.68 .70 *Containing nitrogen, fContaining free lactic acid,. 100.00 .16 .54 100.000 .169 None. 100.00 .131 .39 100.00 .16 .41 93.25 .26 .91 4.70 100.00 .148 .41 No. 11. No. 12. No. 13. No. 14. No. 15. "Water 92.85 .29 .93 5.03 .90 93.35 .25 .91 5.00 .49 92.70 .31 .96 5.31 .72 93.15 .14 .91 5.06 .74 93.10 Butter (pure fatty matters) .14 *Nitrogenous substances (caseine and al- ) bumen, ) .76 5.31 .69 *Containinf nitrogen, 100.00 .151 .60 100.00 .148 .43 100.00 .15 .40 100.00 .148 .48 100.00 .123 fContaiuin"' free lactic acid, .46 The whey which separates from curd that has been gently broken up is as bright as Rhenish wine, provided the milk has been curdled at the proper temperature by a sufficient quantity of good rennet. On the other hand, if the curd has been broken up carelessly in too great a hurry, the whey is more or less milky, and separates on standing, a large quantity of fine curd of the choicest character, for this fine curd is very rich in butter. Thus the best 320 Practical Dairy Husbandry. part of the ciird, instead of becoming incorporated Avith the cheese, finds its way into the whey leads. Be the curd, however, broken up ever so gently, and tlie whey drawn off ever so carefully, the latter always throws up, on standino;, some cream, which it is worth while to make into butter. But the quantity of whey butter made in good dairies is very insignificant in com- 1 parison with that produced where less attention is paid to the breaking of the curd. I know it to be a fact, that in some dairies four times as much whey butter is made as in others. Where much whey butter is made the cheese is seldom of first-rate quality. Believing that this is a matter of some import- ance, I have visited many dairies, and repeatedly watched dairymaids break- ing the curd, and noticed the gentle, patient manner in which a clever woman goes to work, and the hurried, dashing proceedings of a slovenly girl. On these occasions I have taken samples of the whey, and submitted them after- wards to analysis. The results, as recorded in the preceding tables, show how much the whey of different dairies varies in chemical composition as well as in physical character. COMPOSITION OF WHET TAKEN AT THREE DIFFERENT PERIODS. Water, Butler (purefal) ■^Albviiiiiiioiis compounds,. Milk-simiir and liictic acid, Miueralmatters (ash), *Containing nitrogen, No. 16. 1st SAMPLE. 92.90 .18 .94 5.30 .68 100.00 .15 No. 17. 2d SAMPLE, TAKEN 10 MINUTES AFTER 1st SAMPLE. 92.25 .18 .94 5.03 .60 100.00 .15 No. 18. 3d SAMPLE, TAKEN 20 MINUTES APTER 1st SAMPLE. 93.55 .03 .94 4.83 .66 100.00 .15 When it is remembered that milk of good quality contains from three and a-half to four per cent, of butter, it will be readily seen that where samples of whey contain more than one-half per cent, of butter, the cheese is deprived of a very considerable portion of its most valuable constituent, and that its quality must therefore depend in a great measure on the care with Avhich the curd is broken up and the manner in which the whey is drawn off. In some samples the amount of butter is so trifling that it is not considered worth the trouble to gather the cream and to make whey-butter. In the dairies in which this happy state of things exists excellent cheese is made. When the whey first separates from the curd it is always more or less turbid, but by degrees it becomes clearer ; and if sufficient time is allowed, and it is then tapped off without disturbing the curd, it runs off almost as clear as water. By this means nearly the whole of the butter may be retained in the cheese. In order to place this beyond a doubt, I exam- ined the whey which Mr. Keevil, the inventor of the excellent cheese-making Practical Dairy Husbandry. 321 apparatus which bears his name, allowed me to take on the occasion of a visit which I recently paid to his dairy farm at Laycock, near Chippenham. One sample of whey was taken at the stage in which it was usually tapped off in Mr. Keevil's dairy ; the second when the whey had become a little brighter, about ten minutes after the first ; and the third about twenty minutes after the first. It then was as clear as water. These three samples when analyzed gave results as shown on preceding page. The first two samples are almost identical in composition j they both contain very little butter, but, small as that quantity is,, it can be further reduced to a mere trace by letting the whey stand a little longer. In prac- tice it may for other reasons not be desirable to let the whey stand at rest quite so long as the third sample stood ; and a dairymaid may congi*atulate herself when she succeeds in breaking up the curd so carefully that the whey contains as little butter as that made under Mr, Keevil's personal direction and excellent management. It may perhaps be supposed that the successful manner in which the butter is retained in the cheese in Mr. Keevil's dairy is entirely due to the use of his patent apparatus, and that by its introduction any dairymaid may be enabled to make good cheese. But this supposition is not correct. Keevil's apparatus, useful and good as it is in many respects, is no safe- guard against carelessness. Cheese is spoiled with, as well as without it. It does not supersede patience and skill, but its merit consists in saving a great deal of hard labor and time. Beyond this, I may say, without dis- paragement to his ingenious contrivances for breaking the curd, straining off the whey, and other appliances, that it effects nothing which may not be done by hand. But this saving of time and hard labor is a great merit in an apparatus which can be bought at no great cost. Where from thirty to forty milking cows are kept, it may be safely recommended ; in smaller dairies there may not be sufficient vise for it. Having made frequent trial of Keevil's apparatus, I am anxious that its true merits should be known, but no unreasonable expectations be entertained. It has been said that it makes more and better cheese than can be made by hand. My own opinion is, that it makes neither more or less, neither better or worse cheese than a skillful dairymaid will make by hand, and that a careless one is as likely to spoil her cheese when using this apparatus as when making it according to her own fashion. Some of the very best and some of the very worst of cheeses which I have examined were made in dairies where Keevil's apparatus is in daily use. The superior character of the one cheese is as little a proof of the merits of Keevil's apparatus as is the bad quality of the other an evidence against it. Again, I may point to the composition of the whey analyses marked No. 2, No. 3, No. 8 and No. 14, in the preceding large table, and to the three whey analyses to which I have just referred : 21 322 Practical Dairy Husbandry. No. 3, containing .68 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keeytl's apparatus. No. 16, containing .18 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's apparatus. No. 18, containing .03 per cent, of butter, was made from curd taken by Keevil's apparatus. Here, then, we have two samples of whey very poor in butter, and one sample containing more butter than any of the seventeen which I analyzed. On the other hand : No. 3, containing .55 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. No. 8, containing .24 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. No. 14, containing .14 per cent, of butter, was made from curd broken by hand. Here, again, we have two well-separated samples of whey, and one rich in butter, all three being made from curd broken by hand. Passing on from the loss of butter to that of the curd itself, I find that, although no doubt some fine curd is lost when the whey is very milky in appearance, yet as a rule this loss is small in most dairies. Indeed, my analyses prove positively that whey seldom contains much caseine or curd which might be retained by ever so careful filti-ation. I have filtered whey from good milk through the finest blotting paper, and obtained it as bright as crystal. On heating the perfectly clear whey to the boiling point, how- ever, a considerable quantity of a white, flaky substance, resembling in every respect albumen, or the white of egg, made its appearance. Collected on a filter, washed with distilled water, dried at 212° F., and weighed, this albu- minous or curd-like substance amounted on the average to about .9 or nearly one per cent, in good milk ; in very rich milk there may be a little more, in poor a little less. This albuminous matter is contained in the whey in a state of perfect solution, and differs from caseine or curd in not being coagulated by rennet. I have called it an albuminous matter, because, like albumen, it separates in flakes from the whey at the temperature of boiling watei-. Any one may prove the existence of this substance, which, however bright the whey may be, it invariably deposits in abundance at the boiling point. Assuming, then, .9 to be the average proportion of this albuminous mat- ter in whey, and deducting this proportion from the total amount of nitro- genized substances in the eighteen samples of whey, we obtain the amount of curd held in mechanical suspension. Thus we get for No. 1 whey, .30 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 2, 4, 8 and 15 whey, none. No. 3 and 13 whey, .06 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 5 whey, .525 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 6 and 9 whey, .11 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 7 whey, .156 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 10, 12 and 14 whey .01 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 11 whey, .03 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. No. 16, 17 and 18 whey, .04 per cent, of curd, held in a state of mechanical suspension. Practical Dairy Husbandry. • 323 Thus only in one sample out of eighteen there was about one-half jDer cent, of card held in mechanical suspension, and one sample containing three- tenths per cent., all the other samples, practically speaking, containing no suspended curd. Thus it is not so much the curd as the butter which is lost when whey is badly separated from the curd. 4. When the curd has become sufficiently consolidated and is ready to be vatted, it is crumbled down into small fragments. For this operation every dairy should be furnished with a curd mill, a simple and inexpensive contri- vance, which saves much labor, and produces, generally speaking, a more uniform material than the hand. 5. Cheese is also spoiled occasionally by badly made rennet, that is, ren- net which is either too weak or has a disagreeable smell. In the one case the curd does not separate completely, and that which separates remains tender ; in the other the milk is tainted, and the flavor of the cheese is aifected. The rennet used in different parts of England varies exceedingly in strength and in flavor. Even in the same locality the usage differs on adja- cent farms. Although I have in my possession some dozens of rennet recipes, which were given to me by experienced dairymaids, each as the very best, I shall not give a single recipe for making rennet, as my object is rather to elucidate chemical principles than to prescribe details ; and also because, as long as the smell of the rennet is fresh, and a sufficient quantity is used, it matters little, in ray opinion, how it is made. The ordinary practice in Cheshire is to make rennet fresh CA^ery morn- ing by taking a small bit of dried skin, infusing it in water, and using this infusion for one day's making. In Gloucestershire and Wiltshire a supply is made for the pickled veils, which lasts for two or three months. Generally the rennet is made in these counties twice in the season. I have had a good deal of discussion with practical men resjDCcting the comparative merits of these two methods. The Cheshire farmers almost unanimously object that the rennet does not keep well when made in any quantity of pickled veils. This, however, is quite a mistake. I have in my possession some rennet which is as nicely flavored now as it was some nine months ago, when it was made. It has, of course, a peculiar animal odor, but nothing approaching a putrid smell. The spices which are used in some localities, such as cloves and lemons, tend very much to keep the rennet in a good con- dition and give it an agreeable flavor. The objection, then, of the Cheshire farmers, that rennet, when a supply is made, does not keep, and spoils the flavor of cheese, is certainly untenable. I am much inclined to consider the practice of Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, of making a considerable supply of rennet, a good one ; for, when once the strength of the rennet has been ascertained, it is merely necessary to take the proper quantity, one or two cupfuls, to produce the desired effect with certainty ; whereas, when the rennet is made day by day, there is not the same certainty of obtaining an infusion of imifoi'm strensrth. 324 , Practical Dairy Husbandry. Scientific and practical writers on milk have stated that the caseine is held in solution by a small quantity of alkali ; that when in warm weather milk curdles, lactic acid, which is always found in sour milk, is formed from a portion of the sugar of milk ; and this lactic acid, by neutralizing the alkali which holds the caseine in solution, causes its separation from the milk. Rennet is supposed to act as a ferment, which rapidly converts some of the sugar of milk into lactic acid. Whether, therefore, milk coagulates spon- taneously after some length of time, or more rapidly on the addition of rennet, in either case the separation of the curd is supposed to be due to the removal of the free alkali by lactic acid. This theory, however, is not quite consistent with facts. The caseine in milk cannot be said to be held in solution by free alkali ; for, although it is true that milk often has a slightly alkaline reaction, it is likewise a fact that sometimes perfectly fresh milk is slightly acid. We might as well say, there- fore, that the caseine is held in solution by a little free acid, as by free alkali. !N'ewly drawn milk, again, is often perfectly neutral ; but, whether milk be neutral, or alkaline, or acid, the caseine exists in it in a state of solution, which cannot, therefore, depend on an alkaline reaction. We all know that milk, when it turns sour, curdles very readily. It is not the fact that a good deal of acid curdles milk which I dispute, but the assumption that the caseine in milk is held in solution by free alkali. The action of rennet upon milk, then, is not such as has been hitherto represented by all chemists who have treated of this subject. Like many other animal matters which act as fer- ments, rennet, it is true, rapidly induces the milk to turn sour ; but free lactic acid, I find, makes its appearance in milk after the curd has separated, and not simultaneously with the precipitation of the curd. Perfectly fresh and neutral milk, on the addition of rennet, coagulates, but the whey is per- fectly neutral. I have even purposely made milk alkaline, and yet succeeded in separating the curd by rennet ; and, what is more, obtained a whey which had an alkaline reaction. What may be the precise mode in which rennet acts upon milk, I do not presume to explain. I believe it to be an action sui generis, which as yet is only known by its eflects. We at present are even unacquainted with the precise chemical character and the composition of the active principle in rennet, and have not even a name for it. Finding the effect of rennet upon milk to be diffei'ent from that which I expected, I made a number of experi- ments, which may here find a place. 1st Experiment. — To a pint of new milk, slightly alkaline to test-paper, and of 60° Fahr., one-fourth ounce of rennet was added. Result — No coagulation after three hours. Another quarter ounce of the same rennet was then added. Mesidt — The milk coagulated one hour after this addition, but the caseine was by no means well separated, and remained tender and too spongy, even after twenty-four hours. The whey was slightly alkaline. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 325 2d Exp.— 1^0 another pint of milk, neutral to test-paper, I added one-half ounce of the same rennet. The temperature of the milk was 60", as before. Hesult — The curd separated (though imperfectly) after three hours. The whey was neutral. N. B. — It will be seen that the curd separated more readily from milk which was neutral, than from that which was alkaline. 3£? Exp. — To two pints of skimmed milk (twenty-four hours old), and very slightly acid, I added one-half ounce of rennet. Temperature of milk 59° Fahr. Mesult — Curd separated in two hours ; reaction of whey the same as that of the milk. Thus, if the milk is slightly sour, rennet separates the curd more readily than when it is neutral, though the temperature may be low. Uh Exp. — To one pint of milk, slightly alkaline, and heated to 82" Fahr., one-fourth ounce of rennet was added. Mesult — The milk coagulated in twenty minutes ; the whey was slightly alkaline. Mh Exp. — To one pint of milk heated to 100°, and neutral on reaction, one-half ounce o£ rennet was added. Mesult — Milk coagulated in one-quarter of an hour ; whey perfectly neutral. Qth Exp. — Added to one pint of milk one-fourth ounce of rennet. The tempex'ature of milk was 110° ; its reaction alkaline. Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey was alkaline. ^th Exp. — Milk was raised to 120° Fahr., and one-fourth ounce of rennet added to one pint of milk, which was slightly alkaline to test-paper, Mesult — Milk coagulated in ten minutes ; the whey had the same reaction as the milk. ^th Exp. — One pint of milk was heated to 130°, and one-fourth ounce of rennet added. Mesult — Curd separated in twenty minutes ; whey had the same reaction as milk. The experiment was repeated, and found correct. It will thus appear that too high a temperature is not so favorable to the coagulation of the milk as a less elevated one. The separation, which at 120° took place in ten minutes, at 130° occupied twenty minutes. 9^A Exp. — Heated one pint of milk to 150°, added one-fourth ounce of rennet. Mesult — Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours. lO^A Exp. — Heated milk to 140°, added rennet. Mesult — No coagulation. Wth Exp. — Heated milk to 135°, added rennet. 326 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Mesuli—No coagulation took place, even after three hours. I then added another quarter ounce ; the milk by this time had cooled down, and the fresh, quantity of rennet caused the separation of curd in less than twenty minutes. Thus, at 120°, milk coagulates most readily; at 130% it takes a some- what longer tmie ; and at 135°, and upwards, it ceases to coagulate. 12^A Mcp.-Reated one pint of milk to boiling point, add'ed one-fourth ounce ot rennet. Hesuli—No curd had separated when examined, after twenty-four hours' standing. 13th mp.-Heated another pint of milk to boiling point, and added one- fourth ounce of rennet. Hesiclt—Milk did not coagulate after twenty-four hours. I then added a little more fresh rennet to the cooled milk, and again gently heated it, when the curd separated in less than one-quarter of an hour. Thus the temperature of boiling water, and even a much lower heat destroys the action of the rennet, but does not so permanently chano-e the caserne of milk that it cannot be separated. "^ The whey in the last experiment, again, was neutral, like the milk. Uth Exp.— Ho one pint of fresh milk I added ten grains .of carbonate of potash, raised the temperature to 88° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce of rennet. Result-Qxxxd separated in half an hour. The milk and the whey were strongly alkaline. After twenty-four hours the whey was neutral, and then it became acid by degrees. l^thExp.-Ho one pint of milk I added twenty grains of carbonate of potash, heated to 90° Fahr., and added one-fourth ounce of rennet Remlt-T\^ curd separated in half an hour, but not so perfectly as in the precedmg experiment, and in a softer condition. The whey was more milky m appearance, and strongly alkaline. Examined after twenty-four hours' standing, it was found to be neutral ; after a lapse of two days, it was acid. Even a considerable quantity of an alkali, therefore, does not prevent the coagulation of milk by rennet. \Uh Bxjx—To another pint of milk I added an unweighed quantity of potash heated to 84°, and then one-fourth ounce of rennet. Hesult—No coagulation took place. Much more alkali was used in this experiment than in the two preceding • an excess of alkali, therefore, prevents the separation of curd by rennet. ' 11th Exp.— To some milk, sufficient tartaric acid was added to make it distinctly acid. Result— -No coagulation took place in the cold. On the application of heat, the milk coagulated but imperfectly. mh Exp.— To another portion of milk I added a good deal of tartaric acid. Practical Dairy Husbandry, 327 Besult—Ihe, milk coagulated after some time, but imperfectly ; on raising the temperature, more curd fell down. In order to precipitate the caseine from milk by tartaric acid, it is thus necessary to add a very large excess of acid, and at the same time to raise the temperature of the milk. These experiments prove thus — a. — ^That the action of rennet on milk is not the same as that of an acid, inas- much as rennet coagulates new milk without turning it sour in the least degree. h. — ^That rennet can precipitate curd from milk, even when purposely made alkaline. c. — That the whey of milk, when produced from perfectly sweet or neutral milk, is at first perfectly sweet or neutral, but rapidly turns sour. If made from milk having an alkaline reaction, the whey at first is alka- line ; when from milk slightly acid, the whey likewise is slightly acid. d. — That rennet ceases to coagulate milk at about 135°, and upwards. e. — That the action of rennet upon milk is more energetic when the milk is slightly acid. This, perhaps, is the reason why some persons recom- mend putting some sour whey into the milk before or after adding the rennet. /. — That an excess of alkali prevents the coagulation of milk by rennet. g. — That an excess of acid coagulates milk, but not perfectly in the cold. h. — That a moderate amount of acid does not coagulate milk in the cold, and imperfectly at an elevated temperature. 6. Cheese, again, is sometimes spoiled when bad annatto is employed as a coloring matter. Annatto at the best is a nasty, disagreeable smelling sub- stance ; it would be well if it were banished altogether from the dairy. But, so long as a good many people will prefer colored to uncolored cheese, annatto will be employed for the purpose of imparting a more or less deep yellow color. The annatto of commerce is derived from the Orelan tree {Bixa orellana). The seeds and pulp of this tree appear to contain two coloring matters ; one, in a pure state, is orange-red, and is called bixin ; the other is yellow, and called orellin. These coloring matters are insoluble in water, but dissolve readily in alkalies, and also in fixed oils and fats. Solid annatto, the annatto cake of commerce, is a preparation, which contains, besides the pure coloring matter, a great deal of potash or soda, carbonate of lime, pipe clay, earthy matters and rubbish of various kinds. Soap, train-oil and other disagreeable smelling and tasting matters are often used in preparing annatto cake. Hence the annatto of commerce is often a most nauseous material, which, when put into the cheese tub, is apt to give the cheese a bad taste and an unsightly color. Far superior to this annatto, and morq handy in its appli- cation, is the liquid anflatto, which is mainly an alkaline solution of the pure coloring matter of the JBixa orellana. An excellent solution of that descrip- 328 Practical Dairy Husbandry. tion is manufactured by Mr. Nichols of Chipj)enham, which is perfectly clear, has a bright yellow color, and is free from any of the obnoxious and disagreeable substances which are frequently mixed up with annatto cake, 7. In the next place Iicould observe that cheese is occasionally spoiled if too much salt is used in curing it. Salt is a powerful antiseptic, that is it prevents fermentation ; hence we use it for pickling beef and hams. A cer- tain amount of salt is necessary, not so much for giving a saline taste, as for keeping in check the fermentation to which cheese, like other animal matters, is liable. If no salt were used the cheese would putrefy, and acquire a very strong taste and smell, at least when made in the ordinary way. When an extra quantity of cream is put to the milk, it is not necessary, or even desi- rable, to salt the curd much ; we might even do without salt altogether, for the large amount of fat (butter) in extra rich cheeses, such as Stilton or Cream Cheddar, sufficiently preserves the caseine. If salt is employed in excess, the cheese does not ripen properly, or acquire that fine flavor, which depends upon the fermentation proceeding in a sufficiently active degree. Too much salt, by checking this chemical activity, is thus injurious to the proper ripening of cheese. The saline taste of old cheese, as already explained, is not due so much to the common salt used in its preparation, as to certain amraoniacal salts which are formed during the ripening process. It sounds strange, but it is nevertheless the case, that over-salted cheeses do not taste nearly so saline when kept for six or eight months, as under-salted cheeses kept equally long. If the milk is very rich, somewhat less salt should be used than when it is poor. On no account, however, should more than two pounds of salt be used per hundred weight of cheese ; one and a-half pounds in most cases is quite enough, and even one pound will be found a sufficient quantity when rich cheeses are made. 8. Lastly, an inferior quality of cheese is sometimes produced when it is imperfectly salted; that is, when the salt is not properly applied to the cheese. I have often seen the salt put upon the curd in rough bits ; more often proper care is not taken to mix the curd with the salt, and the cheese becomes unequally salted. The consequence is that some particles of the cheese ferment too much, others too little, and that the portions which are too much salted do not stick well together, and acquire a dry and crumbly texture. The salt used in dairies should be of the finest description, and should be sifted evenly through a fine sieve on the curd, after the latter has been passed through the curd-mill, and thinly spread in shallow leads to cool. This plan of spreading the salt saves a good deal of labor, and is greatly to be preferred to the system of pickling the cheese in brine after it is made, or of rubbing in salt. When salt is applied, either in solution or by rubbing it into the cheese after it has been in the presses, the outside is apt to get hard, and close up too much. It is, of course, desirable to get a good and firm coat, but, at the same time, the pores should not be tf o much closed, so that the emanations which proceed from the cheese cannot escape. Thin cheeses Practical Dairy Husbandry. 329 may be salted after they have been in the press ; but, in making thick cheeses, it is far better to salt the curd before it is put into the vat. A rather novel way of salting cheese has lately been made the subject of experiments in America. As the following communication to the pages of the Country Gentleman and Cultivator, an American agricultural paper, may have some interest, I take the liberty of inserting it here : IMPORTANT EXPERIMENT IN CHEESE-MAKING. " The dairy season is about commencing again, and I desire the privilege of a corner in your paper, to give the result of extended experiments in cheese-making. In the first place I shall take it for granted that the Avhole process up to salting is well understood, for it is of salting that I wish to speak in this article. "In June, 1859, I finished a few cheeses after the following manner: When my curd was scalded (I practice thorough scalding), I threw into the vat about four quarts of salt — sometimes only three — for a cheese of fifty to sixty pounds, stirring thoroughly. Those which went into the hoop before being well cooled ofi", acted badly ; but when I took time and means to cool sufficiently, the cheeses were very fine. On the whole, I did not like the process and abandoned it. " In 1860 I commenced again, changing the programme as follows : After scalding I drew off the whey, leaving just enough to float the curd, and began to cool off, hurrying the process by pumping in cold water and chang- ing often. Then, to a curd of say sixty pounds, a little more or less, I threw in sometimes three and sometimes four quarts of salt, and stirred till well cooled — then drew off the salted whey, and threw it on the compost heap — put the curd to press, and pressed rapidly and thoroughly. And now for the result. I lost from my whey tub about three pails of whey and some salt. I gained in this, that my dripping tub under the press never had a particle of cream rise upon it, and in having a cheese that gave me no trouble in curing, and that when sent to market sold for the very highest price, and called forth the unqualified approbation of dealers as being perfect in all respects — fine flavored, very solid (not porous), and very fat. " And now let me talk to the experience of dairymen. In the old-fash- ioned way of breaking up and salting a curd, more or less bruising of the cui'd to break the lumps, in order to get the salt evenly distributed, is neces- sary ; and when put to press the white whey runs off freely, or in other words the cream runs off, and of course with it the richness of the cheese, and more or less of its weight ; and if the curd is very dry you are liable to get your cheese too high salted, if not, the reverse. " My experiments clearly prove that a curd salted in whey will retain no more salt than it needs, and that as every particle comes in contact with the brine through the operation of stirring, no bruising is necessary. Whether this is the philosophy of it or not, I am not chemist enough to determine, 330 Practical Dairy Husbandry. but I do know that if there is no discharge of white whey, or cream, it is retained in the cheese, adding to it both richness and weight as a remunera- tion for the extra salt and the wasted whey." III. PKACTICAL EEEOES MADE IK KEEPING CHEESE. The following are some of the practical mistakes that are occasionally made after the cheese has left the presses and is j^laced in the store-rooms. 1. Cheese is deteriorated in quality when it is placed in damp or in badly ventilated rooms. When beef or mutton is kept for a day or two in a damp and badly venti- lated i^lace, the meat soon acquires a disagreeable, cellar-like taste. The same is the case with cheese. Kept in a damp place, it also becomes moldy, and generates abundance of mites. In some parts of Cheshire it is a common practice to keep cheese in dark rooms, carefully shutting out the free access of air. This is an objectionable jDractice, which no doubt has its origin in the desire to maintain in the store- rooms a somewhat elevated temperature, and to avoid draughts of cold air. It is quite true that draughts are injurious to newly-made cheese, and a somewhat elevated temperature decidedly favors its ripening and the devel- opment of a fine flavor ; but the one may be avoided, and the other can be maintained quite well, at the same time that due provision is made for the admission and circulation of fresh air. During the first stage of ripening, a good deal of water and other emana-- tions escape ftom the cheeses, which, if not allowed freely to pass away, make the air damp and injure the flavor of the cheeses. "Why cheese should be kept in dark rooms is to me a mystery. 2. Cheese newly made is spoiled hy not turning it frequently enough. Thick cheeses especially require to be frequently turned, in order that the water which is given oiF from the interior warmer parts of the cheese may freely escape, and all sides be exposed at short intervals to the air. If this is neglected, that part which is in close contact with the board on which it rests becomes smeary and rots, and by degrees the whole cheese is spoiled. The boards, we need hardly say, should be wiped with a dry cloth from time to time as well as the cheese. 3, Cheese does not ripen properly, and therefore remains deficient in flavor^ if the temperature of the cheese-room is too low. The ripening of cheese is essentially a process of fermentation, which may be accelerated or depressed by a proper or by too low a temperature. Any temperature under 60° is unfavorable, and should therefore be avoided. 4. Cheese is also spoiled if the temperature of the cheese-room is too high. If the temperature of the room rises above 75°, the fermentation becomes so active that a cheese is apt to bulge out at the sides, and to lose the uniform and close texture which characterises it when good. .5. Lastly, cheese is sometimes spoiled if the temperature of the cheese- room varied tod much at different times. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 331 A steady fermentation, which is essential to the proper ripening of the cheese, can only be maintained in a room which is not subject to great fluc- tuations in temperature. The more uniformly, therefore, the cheese-room is heated, the more readily cheese can be brought into the market, and the finer the quality will be. For this reason hot- water pipes, which give a very steady, gentle, and lasting lieat, are greatly to be preferred to stoves in cheese-rooms ; with the latter it is almost impossible to maintain an equable temperature. The cheeses nearest to the stove, again, are apt to get too much and those farthest ofi" not enough, heat. Constant attention is moreover required; and firing in the room is always productive of more or less dust and dirt. These inconveniences are entirely avoided by the system of heating by hot-water pipes. In every dairy hot water is in constant request ; the same boiler which heats the water for cleaning the dairy utensils may be conveniently connected with iron pipes that pass in and round the cheese-room. Beyond the first cost of the iron pipes hardly any extra expense in fuel is thus incurred. An extra pipe likewise may be introduced which connects the boiler with Coquet's apparatus, and by this means the curd in the tub may be scalded much more conveniently and regularly than by pouring hot whey or water over it. I have not made a sufficient number of observations to say definitely which is the best temperature to be maintained in a cheese-room; but in my judge- ment a uniform temperature of 70° to 75° is highly favorable to the ripen- ing process. The proper regulation of the temperature of the cheese-room, and the general plan of heating by hot water, I believe, is one of the greatest of our recent improvements. These are some of the practical mistakes which I have noticed in our dairies. I have endeavored to assign reasons why they must be so regarded, and have ventured to point out the appropriate remedies, many of which, however, suggest themselves naturally to any intelligent observer. My object has been, not so much to write a treatise on cheese-making, as to enable those interested in dairy operations to read the various treatises and pamphlets on cheese-making with profit, so as to be able to sift the recom- mendations which are worth imitating from the heap of empirical rubbish under which they are too often buried. No directions, however carefully given, can ever be of much service in an art which, like cheese-making, does not so much presuppose a great amount of knowledge as practical experience, dexterity and cleanly habits. Neither skill in manipulation, nor habits of cleanliness, nor experience can be acquired by reading. A good or a sensible pamphlet, no doubt, may be read with benefit even by an experienced hand ; but the very best of treatises, in the nature of things, cannot teach a person who wants a rule or a receipt for everything, how to make a good cheese. A good cookery book, no doubt, is a useful literary production, but the best cookery-book is incapable of teaching an inexperienced person the art of 332 Practical Dairy Husbandry. making light and wholesome pie-crust. It is the same with cheese-making as with cookery, as we shall do well to bear in mind. Lest these observations on publications on cheese-making should seem to disparage too much the merits of the different authors, I may state distinctly that a few papers contain valuable and plain directions for making good cheese ; but I am bound at the same time to confess that the greater number, and more especially most of the prize essays on cheese-making which I have read, in my humble opinion, are next to useless to the dairy-farmer, inasmuch as they generally conta.in nothing good but what every dairy-farmer has long known ever since he began making cheese — and a great deal besides, which, though it may appear novel, ingenious or feasible, will at once be condemned by any man of sound judgement as visionary and utterly impracticable. There are many topics intimately connected with the manufacture of cheese on which I have not touched at all, such as the influence of the food on the quantity and quanlity of milk, an important subject as yet hardly investi- gated at all. Again, the influence of the race on the production of milk deserves to be carefully studied, besides various other points on which prac- tical men may wish to obtain trustworthy information. My passing them over in silence in the present paper will not, I trust, be taken as an indication of want of acquaintance with the real, practical wants of the dairy-farmer. Hitherto scarcely anything directly bearing on dairy-practice has been done by scientific men ; the whole investigation has, therefore, engaged my liveliest attention, and brought to light some unexpected chemical facts which have been recorded in the preceding pages. Others I hope to lay before the readers of the Journal of the Royal Agricultui;al Society when the researches still in hand shall be in a sufficiently advanced state to warrant their publication. I VOELCKER'S CHEESE EXPERIMENTS. On Pasture Farms, where the milk is not all sold as new milk, nor used for fattening calves, the question arises, by what other means it may most profitably be converted into marketable produce, and there is still a choice between four different modes of proceeding : 1. The whole milk may be made into cheese. 2. The cream may be skimmed from part of the milk for making butter, and the skimmed milk added to new milk, and then made into cheese. 3. The whole of the milk may be skimmed and made into skim-milk cheese, and the cream into butter. 4. The whole milk may be skimmed, and made into skim-milk cheese ; the cream from the skimmed milk be added to new milk, and made into extra rich cheese. The question is, which of these four modes gives the best money return. Such a purely practical question can be tested satisfactorily in one way only, that is by actual trials. I therefore gladly availed myself of the kindness of my friend Mr. Thomas Pboctor, who most liberally placed his dairy at my command, that I might institute a series of experiments calculated to further the solution of this inquiry. I am, likewise, much indebted to Mr. Tanner for the practical assistance which he rendered me by superintending the experi- ments which were made on a sufficiently large scale to furnish reliable data. For each experimental cheese an equal quantity of milk was used, consist- ing of one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of morning milk. The first experimental cheese was made on the 11th of August, 1860; the others on the following days. In Mr. Pkoctor's dairy at Wall's Court (now in the occupation of Mr. Richard Stratton) cheese is made in the Cheddar fashion. In making the different experimental cheeses, the same general process was adopted, being that usually employed in this dairy. Immediately after the morning milking, the evening and morning milks were put together into a Cockney's tin tub, having a jacketed bottom for the admission of steam or cold water. The temperature of the whole was slowly raised to 80®, by admitting steam into the jacketed bottom. Ko annatto was used for coloring ; after the 334 Practical Dairy Husbandry. addition of the necessary quantity of rennet, the tub was covered with a cloth and left for an hour. Rennet, it may be remarked, when properly prepared and added in sufficient quantity, should perfectly coagulate milk at 80" in from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. If the milk fail to be coagulated within the hour, the curd produced will be too tender, and not ea^ly separated from the whey without loss of butter and injury to the quality of the cheese. These results invariably follow when the rennet is not sufficiently strong, or too little of it is employed. On the other hand, if the curd is completely separated from milk at 80° Fahrenheit in twenty to twenty-five minutes, the cheese produced is apt to be sour or hard. An excess of rennet always has the effect of separating the curd from the milk too rapidly, and in a hard condition. As much depends upon the strength of the rennet, it is useful in daily practice to prepare a large quantity at a time, and to ascertain by a few trials the proper amount for mixing with a given quantity of milk. In experi- mental trials, it is absolutely indispensable to know the strength of the rennet, and to emj^loy the same rennet in all the trials. At Wall's Court we took special care to fulfil these conditions. Our plan of proceeding was as follows :— At about half-past eight o'clock, the ciu-d was partially broken and allowed to subside for about half an hour, after which the temperature was raised very gradually to 108° Fahrenheit, by letting steam into the hollow bottom of the cheese-tub ; the curd and whey, meanwhile, being gently stirred with a wire breaker, so that the heat was uniformly distributed, and the curd minutely broken. The heat was kept at 108° for an hour, during which time the stirring was continued ; the curd, now broken into pieces of the size of a pea, was then left for half an hour to settle. The whey was then drawn off by opening a spigot near the bottom of the tub. As the curd which is obtained by this process is quite tough, it readily separates from the whey, and no pressure Avhatever is at first requisite to make the bulk of it run off in a perfectly clear state. The curd, collected in one mass, was then rapidly cooled and cut across into large slices, turned over once or twice, and left to drain for half an hour. As soon as it was tolerably dry and had cooled down considerably, it was placed under the press and much of the remaining whey removed by pressure. After this the cheese was broken at first coarsely by hand, and then by the curd-mill, which divides it into small fragments. A little salt was then added and thoroughly mingled with the curd. ^ The next operation Avas the vatting. The cheese vat, completely filled with the broken and salted curd, was covered with a cloth ; the curd was reversed in the cloth, put back into the vat, covered up and placed in the press. The cheese cloth was removed several times, and the cheeses were ready to leave the press on the sixth morning. Mr. Pkoctor's dairy was furnished with one of Messrs. Cockey's heating apparatus. This apparatus Practical Dairy Husbandry. 335 not only maintains a uniform temperature in the room in which the cheese is ripened, but provides a supply of steam, by which the milk and whey may be kept at any temperature which may be required ; the necessity of removing a large quantity of milk or whey to a boiler to be heated, that it may impart the proper temperature to the remainder of the milk or whey in the cheese- tub, is thus done away with. As the steam is quickly generated, careless dairymaids sometimes spoil the cheese in a few minutes by allowing the tem- perature to rise too high. When the curd is overheated, the cheese made from it is always hard and deficient in flavor. In using Cockey's jacketed cheese-tub, care should also be taken to stir up constantly the contents of the tub when steam is admitted into the false bottom, for the purpose of raising the temperature to about 100", after the curd has been broken up coarsely. If this precaution is neglected, a portion of the curd adheres to the heated bottom, and melts. The melted curd pre- vents the equal distribution of the heat, and by not amalgamating with the remaining curd produces a cheese which is not uniform in texture, ripens unequally, and is altogether of an inferior quality. When steam is admitted into the jacketed bottom of the tub, the dairymaid should not leave her place for a moment, and constantly keep her hands employed in stirring the contents of the tub with the shovel wire-breaker. This is rather hard work, and therefore much better performed by men than by women, many of whom dislike Cockey's cheese-tub. Where it is in use there is, indeed, greater risk of the cheese being spoiled than when whey heated in a boiler is added to raise the contents of an ordinary tub to the required temperature. But it is manifestly unjust to condemn a useful appai'atus on account of the mischief which may arise from its misuse. Cockey's cheese-tub, I have no hesitation in saying, is an excellent appa- ratus which saves a great deal of labor; but excellent though it may be, I cannot recommend its use to those who cannot place implicit reliance on the care and vigilance of the dairyworaan. These women, as a class, are not willing to alter the plan of their operations, and learn the use of a new appa- ratus, which, if it saves much labor, still requires some special attention — an effort which to some minds seems more troublesome than down-right hard manual labor. The rennet used in the dairy was made according to the following receipt : Slice the half of a lemon ; sprinkle it Avith about six ounces of salt, then pour upon it one quart of boiling water ; cover the A^essel to retain the steam. When cold put into the liquid one fresh veil ; allow the whole to stand for two days, then strain the liquid through a fine cloth, and the ren- net is ready for use. This quantity is deemed sufficient to coagulate six hundred gallons of milk. Prepared in this mode, and carefully strained off from the sediment which makes its appearance in the course of some days, rennet keeps sweet and efficient for several months. 336 Practical Dairy Husbandry. experimental cheese no. 1 (whole-milk cheese.) A cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of evening milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of morning milk as drawn from the cow. A sample of the mixed morning and evening milk, on analysis, gave the following results : Water, 87 . 30 Butter, 3 . 75 *Caseine, 3.31 Milk-sugar and extractive matters, 4.86 Mineral matters (asli), 78 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 53 The whey obtained in this trial was as clear as Rhenish Avine, and con- tained no suspended curd. It furnished the following analytical results : COMPOSITION OF "WHET OBTAINED IN MAKING CHEESE NO. 1. Water, 93 . 25 Butter, 26 ^Albuminous conipouiuls, .91 fMilk-sugar, lactic acid, &c., 4.70 Mineral matters (ash), .88 100.00 * Containing nitrogen, .166 \ Lactic acid, .60 This whey, though perfectly clear, like all other samples contained in solution a considerable quantity of a curd-like substance, Avhich is not coagu- lated by rennet, but separates in flakes like the white of eggs when the liquid is raised to the boiling point. In all probability this curdlike substance is albumen. In the analysis of milk this albuminous compound is given together with caseine ; and as it constitutes one-fourth to one-third of the caseine men- tioned in the analysis of milk, much less curd is obtained as cheese than would be the case if the total quantity of curdlike substances was coagulated by rennet. I have tried various means of separating this curdlike substance together with the rest of the curd, in the hope of obtaining thereby a larger quantity of cheese from a given number of gallons of milk, but have not succeeded. The only simple way of obtaining this substance is to heat the milk or whey nearly to 212*, a temperature which of course, would alto- gether spoil the cheese. It has been said that perfectly clear whey possesses little nutritive value, but this is a mistake. Not only does such whey contain nearly the whole of the sugar of milk and bone-producing materials (ash), but also a considerable quantity of albuminous or flesh-producing compounds held in solution, besides some butter, the proportion of which, however, is very small when the operation has been carefully conducted. On no account, therefore, should the whey be allowed to run to waste. Mixed with a little barley-meal it constitutes the best food that can be given to pigs, for it fattens rapidly, and produces the most delicately-flavored bacon. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 337 In this trial two hundred and sixty quarts of milk produced two hundred and thirty-four quarts of whey. The cheese was weighed when fresh from the press, and again from time to time, with a view of ascertaining the loss which it sustained in keeping. The loss is considerable, as will be seen by the subjoined weighings : August 17tli (fresh from the press), 613^ lbs. September 14th m% " December 14th 57^ " February 11th 573| " March 11th 57 " April 17lh 56 " Total loss in eight months, 5% lbs., or nine per cent, round numbers. This cheese was considered quite ripe on the 14th of December, and there- fore lost one and three-quarter pounds after it was ready for the market. A portion analysed on the 17th of April, 18G1, gave the following results : Water, 87 . 85 Butter, 28.91 *Caseiue, 25.00 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.91 fMineral matters (ash), 8.33 100.00 * Containing nitrogen, 4.00 f Containing common salt, .53 EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE KG. 2 (PAETIALLY SKIMMED-MILK CHEESE.) The second cheese was made from one hundred and thirty quarts of skimmed milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk. The morning milk stood thirty-six hours and the evening milk twenty-four hours before being skimmed. The cream removed measured ten pints, and produced nine pounds of butter. A sample of the mixed skim and new milk from which the cheese No. 2 was made, on analysis gave the following results : Water, 87 . 89 Butter, 3.12 *Caseine, , 2.94 Milk sugar and extractive matters, 5.29 Mineral matters (ash), , 76 100.00 ^Containing nitrogen, .47 The whey produced in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty- eight gallons, and was found to have the following composition : Moisture, 92 . 85 Butter, 29 *Albuminous compounds, 93 Milk sugar, lactic acid, &c., 5.03 fMineral matters (ash), 90 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 168 t Containing lactic acid V. .".'.". .".! ... .48 22 338 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The cheese No. 2 was made on the 13th of August, 1860, and weighed: August 21st (fresh from the press), m% lbs. September 14tli,. 493| December 14lh, 47 March 11th, 46 April 18th, 45M July 30th, 44 Total loss in eight months, Q% lbs., or thirteen and a-quarter per cent. Loss when ready for sale, Z% lbs., or seven per cent. Analysed on the 30th of July, 1861, having been kept rather longer than ten months, it had the following composition : Water, 32 . 88 Butter, 29.25 *Caseine, 29.87 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., 4.92 fMineral matters (ash), 3 . 08 100.00 * Containing nitrogen, 4.78 f Containing common salt, .29 Having been kept much longer than the preceding cheese, it contained five per cent, less water and cut rather drier. It will be noticed that this cheese contained very little salt. The dairymaid made a mistake not only in this, but in all the trials, by using an insufficient quantity of salt ; not more than about six ounces having been taken for each cheese. The proper quantity of salt is one pound for every fifty pounds of cheese. EXPEEIMENTAIi CHEESE KO. 3 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE.) In this instance two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk were set aside ; the morning milk stood twenty-four hours, and the evening milk thirty-six hours before being skimmed. The milk from which the cream was removed was then made into skimmed-milk cheese ; tAVO hundred and sixty quarts of milk gave twenty pints of cream, which according to the preceding trial would have yielded eighteen pounds of butter. A sample of the skimmed milk from which the Cheese No. 3 was made, on analysis furnished the following results : Water 89.00 Butter 1.93 *Caseine 3.01 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.28 Mineral matters (ash) 78 100.00 * Containing nitrogen, 48 The whey in this experiment measured two hundred and twenty-two quarts, and had the following composition : Water 93.15 Butter 14 Albuminous compounds 91 *Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.06 Mineral matters 74 100.00 * Containing lactic acid 48 Practical Dairy Husbandry, 339 The Cheese No. 3 was made on the 15th of August, and weighed : August 21st (fresh from tiie press) 481,^ lbs. September l4tli 47 " ' December 14lli 44 '< February lltb 433/ " March 11th 43y' u April 18th .'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'!.'.'.' 43 " Total loss in eight months, six and a-lialf pounds, or thirteen per cent. Loss when ready for sale, four and a-half pounds, or nine and one-quarter per cent. A portion of this cheese was analyzed on the 18th of April, 1861, and found to consist in one hundred parts of — Water 3943 -Butter 27.08 *Caseine 30.37 Extractive matters and lactic acid ' '23 fMiueral matters (ash) ', 2.90 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 4.86 f Containing common salt 23 EXPERIMENTAL CHEESE NO. 4 (eXTBA-RICH CHEESe). The cream from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk was added to two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk and made into cheese. A sample of the mixed cream and new milk from which No. 4 was made contained in one hundred parts : Water 85.75 Butter 611 *Caseine 2.94 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.47 Mineral matters (ash) ' .73 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 47 In this trial two hundred and forty-three quarts of whey were produced. The following is an analysis of the whey obtained in making Cheese No. 4 : Water 92.95 Butter 65 Albuminous compounds 1 30 ■^Milk-sugar and lactic acid 4.55 Mineral matters (ash) ^65 100.00 * Containing lactic acid 48 In comparison with the whey obtained in making the Cheeses No. 1, 2 and 3, this whey is richer in butter and also in albuminous matter. It was rather milky, and owed its turbid condition to finely-suspended particles of curd and butter. The Cheese No. 4 was made on the 15th of May, 1860, and weighed : August 21st (when it left the press) 70% lbs. September 14th 70 " December 14th ' * * 67 " February 11th .'..'.' 66 " March lltli .'....'........'..! 66 " April 18th \\\\ 64 " July 30th ,. 63 " 340 Practical Dairy Husbandrt. Total loss in eleven months, eight and tliree-fourths pounds, or twelve and a-half per cent, in round numbers. Loss when ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds, or five per cent. COMPOSITION OF EXTRA-RICH CHEESE NO. 4 ON JULY 30TH, 1861. Water • • • • 30.53 Butter 41.58 *Caseine 23.38 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.45 •j-Miueral matters (ash) 2.06 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 3.74 f Containing common salt 09 It was considered desirable to repeat these trials, and to make four other cheese precisely jn the same way in which the preceding four cheeses were made respectively. CHEESE KO. 5 (whole-milk CHEESE). Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk. COMPOSITION -OF THIS MILK (AUGUST 21ST, 1860). Water 87.00 Butter 3.99 *Caseine 3.44 Milk-sugar, extractive matter, &c 4.81 Mineral matters (ash) 76 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 55 This milk, it will be seen, differs but slightly in composition from that used on the 11th of August, for making whole-milk cheese. COMPOSITION OF WHET FROM CHEESE NO. 5. Water 92.80 Butter 59 Albuminous compounds 91 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 5.04 Mineral matters (ash) 66 100.00 This whey, like that made from Cheese No. 4, was not sufficiently clear, and contained too much fatty matter in a state of mechanical suspension. The Cheese ISTo. 5 was made on 21st of August, and weighed: August 27th (fresh from the press) 61^ lbs. September 14th 60^ " December 14th 583| " March 11th 57 " Total loss in six and a-half months, four and a-half pounds, or seven and one-fourth per cent. Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or five and one-fourth per cent. COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO, 5 ON THE IItH JULY, 1861. Water 31.70 Butter 36.18 *Caseine 27.19 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.95 f Mineral matters (ash) 2.98 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 4.35 f Containing common salt 34 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 341 CHEESE NO. 6 (PARTIALLT-SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe). Made from one hundred and thirty quarts of new milk and one hundred and thirty quarts of skimmed milk. COMPOSITION OF MILK FROM WHICH CHEESE NO. 6 WAS MADE. Water 88.50 Butter 2.43 *Caseine 3.25 Milk-sugar, extractive matters, &c 5.03 Mineral matters (ash) 79 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 52 Ten pints of cream were taken from one hundred and thirty quarts of milk, and produced nine and one-fourth pounds of butter. COMPOSITION OP WHEY FROM CHEESE NO 6. Water 93.05 Butter 40 Albuminous compounds 95 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4 96 Mineral matters (ash) 64 100.00 This cheese was made on the 18th of August and weighed : August 24th 53 lbs. September 14tii 533^ " December 14th 49^ " February 11th 49 " Total loss in six months, four pounds, or seven and a-half per cent. Loss when ready for sale, three and one-fourth pounds, or six per cent. COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 6, ANALYZED APRIL 22d, 1862. Water 38.43 Butter 23.28 *Caseine 32.37 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 2.10 fMineral matters (ash) 3.83 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 5.18 f Containing salt 65 CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIMMED-MILK CHEESe). Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk, from which the cream (twenty and one-fourth pints) was taken oif. COMPOSITION OF SKIM-MILK USED IN MAKING THE CHEESE NO. 7. Water 89.10 Butter , 2.31 *Caseine 3.50 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 4.33 Mineral matters (ash) 77 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 56 The whey from this cheese was perfectly clear, and contained hardly any butter, as will be seen by the subjoined analysis : 342 Pb ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. COMPOSITION OF "VSrHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 7. Water 93.10 Butter 14 Albuminous compounds 76 *Milk-sugar and lactic acid 5.31 Mineral matters (asli) 69 100.00 * Containing lactic acid 46 This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed : August 26th 49^ lbs. September 14tli 49 " December 14tli 473^ " March 6th 463^ " Total loss in six months, three and one-fourth pounds, or six and one-half per cent. Loss when ready for sale, two and one-half pounds, or five per cent. COMPOSITION OF CHEESE NO. 7 (SKIM-MILK CHEESE). Water 38.39 Butter 23.21 *Caseine 28.37 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 6.80 Mineral matters (ash) 3.23 100.00 * Containing 4.54 CHEESE NO. 8 (extra RICH CHEESe). Made from two hundred and sixty quarts of new milk, to which was added the cream (twenty pints) from two hundred and sixty quarts of milk. COMPOSITION OF THE MILK FROM WHICH THE CHEESE NO. 8 WAS MADE. Water 86.73 Butter 4.81 *Caseine 2.69 Milk-sugar and extractive matters 5.01 Mineral matters (ash) 76 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 43 COMPOSITION OF THE WHEY FROM CHEESE NO. 8. Water 92,95 Butter 42 Albuminous compounds 1.01 Milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c 4.95 Mineral matters (ash) 67 100.00 This cheese was made on the 20th of August, 1860, and weighed: August 26th (fresh from the press) 74^ lbs. September 14th 7311 « December 14th 71 " Loss from the time it left the press until ready for sale, three and three-fourths pounds, or five per cent. No analysis was made of this cheese. . Practical Dairy Husbandry. 343 These experiments then led to the following results : Marketable Cheese. Butter. Quarts. lbs. lbs. 1. 520 of milk produced (whole-milk) 116 3. " (one-half skimmed) produced 96^^ 18 3. " (all skimmed) produced 90}^ 36 the cream from one- ) ^ , . „,,„„„„ qai/ 4. 1040 " \ half being added to [ produced \ 'f^rcheese 138 ! '. ^^au siiiiiimeuj pnjiiuucii !the cream from one- ) ^ , . half being added to [■ produced t ^.j V the other ) ' The cheeses were sent to Messrs. Bridges & Co., extensive cheese fac- tors at Bristol, who considered No. 1 to be worth seventy shillings per hun- dredweight ; No. 2, sixty shillings per hundredweight ; No. 3, fifty shillings per hundredweight. With respect to the extra-rich Cheese No. 4, Messrs. Bbidges say : " We have examined the cheese marked No. 4 ; we think it cuts rather richer than that marked No. 1, but it bears no higher value in the market." In my paper on the Composition of Cheese, I pointed out the fact that the market value of cheese does not entirely depend upon the amount of butter which it contains, I am glad to find this opinion confirmed by the testimony of a cheese factor whose practical knowledge is extensive. Mr. Tanner informs me that he has had a long conversation with Mr. Bridges on the subject of cheese-making, and in his letter to me quotes several observations made by him on this occasion, which perfectly accord with remarks made by me in the paper referred to. Thus Mr. Bridges, speaking within certain limits, considers the richness of cheese to depend as much upon the mode of making as upon the quantity of cream in the milk. Too much heat, he says, destroys the cream ; meaning, no doubt, that too much heat melts some of the butter, which then passes into the whey. By carelessly manipulating the tender curd, he justly observes, some of the cream may be washed out and passed into the whey. This gentleman is also of opinion that the best Cheddar cheese can be made from good new milk, and therefore considers the addition of cream to milk of questionable service, and certainly an extravagant practice. The addition of cream to new milk, no doubt, if not absolutely necessary, certainly improves the quality of Stilton cheese, but the market value of Cheddar is not raised materially by such an addition. First-rate cheese- makers, Mr. Bridges observes, often take some cream from the milk, and still make a superior quality of cheese (worth more in the market) than less experienced and careless makers produce from unskimmed milk. He looks upon the temperature and careful breaking of the curd as the points upon which the quality of the cheese (Cheddar) mainly depends — apart, of course, from the influence of the natural richness or poverty of the milk. Having treated of all these points in detail in my paper on the " Compo- sition of Cheese," I need not refer to them in particular. These observations made by Mr. Bridges must be satisfactory to dairymen, as aflTording a prac- 344 Practical Dairy Husbandry, tical confirmation of the correctness of opinions which I have already pub- lished, as resulting from my own observations and scientific experiments. The cheeses produced in these trials were not so good as they might have been, nor like those of experienced makers, such as Mr. Harding of Marks- bury, Mr. McAdam of Gorsly Hill, or Mr. Chandos Pole of Derby. Anxious not in any way to thwart or disconcert the dairymaid, I thouo-ht it wise to let her have entirely her own way. She certainly made two great mistakes. To one I have already alluded ; six ounces of salt is not enough for from fifty to sixty pounds of cheese ; three-quarters to one pound would have been a better proportion. The second mistake which she made was to raise the temperature to 108° F. On no account should the heat of the cheese-tub be allowed to rise above 100° F. The higher the temperature is raised the more readily the whey passes from the curd, and the less mechan- ical work is required. The dairy woman may, therefore, be naturally tempted to save herself trouble to the injury of the cheese. Although I am a great advocate for the Cheddar system of cheese-making, I am bound to say that the comparatively lower temperature which the best Cheshire makers adopt is the main reason of the exceedingly fine aroma which so favorably characterises their produce. The finest-flavored cheese which I have ever tasted was made at Ridley Hall, near Crewe, Cheshire. I have no hesitation in saying that milk of the same quality as that which there came under the careful management of Mrs. Willis, in the hands of the most expert Cheddar maker would not produce a cheese of an equally delicious flavor. The care, skill, and enormous amount of work and time which the making of the best Cheshire entails, especially when contrasted with the Cheddar system, no doubt are the main causes why so little really first-rate Cheddar cheese is now manufactured. I would strongly recommend those who prefer in the main to follow the Cheshire plan, but find that their cheese is apt to heave and be inferior in quality, to set the milk at a somewhat higher tem- perature than is their custom; 80° is a very good temperature at the time of applying the rennet. When the curd has been carefully broken up and allowed to settle for about half an hour, the temperature of the cheese-tub may then be raised with advantage to 90° F. Returning to the Wall's Court cheese trials, it appears, according to pre- ceding data, that one thousand gallons of milk, used according to the four difierent modes adopted, gave market produce as follows : No. 1. 1,000 gallons of new milk gave 8 cwt. of whole-milk cheese. ISO 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, partially skimmed, produced 6^ cwts. 16 lbs. of cheese, and 13^ cwt. of l>utter. 1 j . i /2 No 3. 1,000 gallons of milk, skimmed, produced 6 cwts. 34 lbs. of skim-milk cheese, and 33^ cwts. of butter. No 4. 1,000 gallons of milk produced 3 cwts. 13 lbs. of skim-milk cheese, and 4M cwts. of extra rich cheese. Let us now compare the economic results obtained, taking as the basis of Practical Dairy Husbandry, . 345 our calculation the price actually obtained by the sale of these eight large Cheddar cheeses, and assuming that butter is sold at Is. per pound. £ s. d. £ s. d. No. 1. Produced 8 cwts. of whole milk cheese, worth 70s. per cwl 28 No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 2 qrs. 16 Ihs, at 60s. per cwt 19 18 4 26 18 4 Butter, 11^ cwt., at Is. per lb 7 No. 3. Cheese, 6 cwts. 24 lbs., at 50s. per cwt 15 10 8 Butter, 3K cwts ^^ ^ ^ 29 ^q 3 No. 4. Made into skim-milk cheese and extra rich cheese, 1,000 gal- lons of milk prod uced : Skim-milk cheese, 3 cwts, 12 lbs., at 50s 7 15 4 Kich cheese, 4 cwts. 3 qrs., at 703 16 13 6 24 7 10 Thus in these experiments it will appear that No. 2 gave the best, and No. 4 decidedly the least profitable result. Where a ready sale for butter can be found, I am inclined to think it is more profitable to make skim-milk cheese and butter than to look only to the production of a cheese of a better quality. The Cheddar plan, however, is not so well adapted for the making of skim-milk cheese as the Gloucester system, neither is it desirable to make thick skim-cheeses. A thick skim-milk cheese, when made at the elevated temperature at which Cheddar is usually produced, never ripens properly, and like all skim-milk cheese deteriorates when kept more than two months ; whereas a rich Cheddar is gradually improved by keeping for many months. CHEESE EXPERIMENTS MADE AT MK. HAERISOn'S DAIRY, FKOCESTER COURT, STONEHOUSE. Mr. J. F. Harrison makes excellent uncolored single Gloucester, and follows the ordinary practice in his neighborhood of making cheese twice a day. The pasture in this district is good, but full of buttercups {Ranunculus). The cows kept on this pasture yield milk rich in butter. In making single Gloucester, a portion of the milk from each milking is generally set aside, partially skimmed, and then added to new milk. The rennet is applied at a temperature varying, according to the time of the year, from 75° to 80°. After an hour the curd is carefully cut across with a large-bladed knife, then removed by a skimming dish from the sides and bottom of the tub. The curd is allowed to subside for about a quarter of an hour, after which the clear whey is dipped out with a wooden bowl, care being taken not to press or injure the tender curd. When most of the whey has been removed, the curd is again carefully stirred with a wooden skimming dish, and afterwards with a wire breaker, at first very cautiously and gradually more briskly. After the curd has been thoroughly broken, the whole is left to settle for twenty or twenty-five minutes ; the clear whey is next drawn ofi", and the curd collected into one mass. This is cut into thin slices, which are heaped up and again collected into one mass, and this process of slicing and heapmg is repeated several times, as it materially facilitates the separation of the whey and is much preferable to the use of pressure. Many dairymaids, anxious to be rid of this work, put the curd far too soon into the presses ; in consequence 346 Practical Dairy Husbandry. of which the pores of the outside layers of the cheese are completely closed up, and the whey prevented from escaping. No amount of ordinax-y pressure removes the whey so perfectly as repeated slicing and careful breakino- up. When sufficiently firm and dry, the curd is placed upon cloth in the vat, and gently pressed under an ordinary cheese-press. When no more whey flows out, it is removed from the press, crumbled coarsely by hand, and then more minutely by the curd-mill. Finally the curd is vatted, and placed at first under a slight pressure, which is gradually increased. The last thing done on the day on Avhich the cheeses are made, is often to rub in some salt. Subsequently the cheeses are salted in the same way three times, and each time the salt is rubbed in, a clean and dry cloth is placed around the cheeses. In about a week's time the cheeses are ready to be removed to the cheese-room. The preceding is a short description of the usual plan of making thin Gloucester cheese. Mr. Harrison does not color his cheese, and keeps it for about a fortnight in a warm room, and then removes it to a cool, airy shed for three weeks longer before he sends it to market. In both rooms the cheeses are kept on wooden shelves and frequently turned. In winter the first room is heated by a stove. Mr. Harrison, who takes great interest in cheese-making, some years ago applied the ordinary centrifugal drying-machine to the purpose of separating whey. A small turbine or water-wheel drives the revolving vessel in which the curd is placed in a cloth. As the vessel attains its velocity, the whey is driven outwards through the perforated surface which encloses it, and escapes. The curd in this case is either not broken at all, unless by accident, or but imperfectly. Having operated with the drying machine, I am of opinion that instead of beating curd and whey together into the revolving vessel, it would be better and more expeditious to break the curd coarsely, to let it subside for twenty minutes, to dip out as much of the clear whey as possible without dis- turbing the curd, and then to place it, tied in a cloth, in the revolving vessel. Mr. Harrison obligingly placed his dairy at my disposal to try certain experiments, and for his kindness and personal assistance my sincere thanks are due to this gentleman. It has been stated by many, that in cheeseraaking a considerable loss, both in curd and butter, is often incurred by adopting a faulty method, or by careless manipulation. With a view of preventing these alleged losses, Mr. Harrison was the first to adapt the centrifugal drying-machine to dairy operations. But as his excellent dairymaid prefers to make cheese by hand, the centrifugal machine is not often set in motion at Frocester Court. I was anxious to ascertain by comparative trials whether the alleged loss in cheesemaking was unavoidable, or whether it could be avoided or dimin- ished by the employment of this centrifugal whey-separating machine. The trials were made at Frocester Court on the 7th of August, 1860. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 347 No. 1. — In the first experiments, eighty gallons of milk were made according to the usual plan into four cheeses, which may be called hand- made cheeses. No. 2. — In the second trial, eighty gallons of milk were made into four cheeses as before, with this exception — that the whey was separated by the centrifugal machine. The milk used in both trials had the following composition : Water, 87.40 Butter, 3.43 *Caseine, 3 . 13 Milk sugar, extractive matters, &c., 5.13 Miueral matters (ash), , 93 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 50 The whey obtained in each experiment was neaiiy clear ; that produced by the machine being the clearer of the two. On analysis the following results were obtained : COMPOSITION OF TWO SAMPLES OF WHEY MADE AT PROCESTER COURT, AUG. 7tH, 1860. MACHINE-MADE. HAND-MADE. Water, 93.75 93 60 Butter, .39 .55 *Albuminous Compounds, 87 .96 Ash 86 .81 Sugar and extractive matters, 5.13 5.08 100.00 100.00 * Containing nitrogen .14 .15 Free lactic acid, .41 .36 We see then that both in respect of the butter and the albuminous com- pounds left in the whey, the machine has an advantage, though but a slight one ; but there is no essential difference between ordinary whey and that pro- duced by the centrifugal machine. Other samples of whey from cheese made by hand have given me quite as little butter as that found in the whey pro- duced by the machine ; and every sample of whey which I have yet examined contained from 8-lOths to 1 per cent, of a curd-like albuminous matter which is not coagulated by rennet, and that can only be separated by boiling. The four cheeses of each trial were carefully marked and weighed at inter- vals. They were made, it will be remembered, on the 7th of August. No. I. — The cheeses made by hand weighed : August 18th, 811^ lbs. September 3d, 783^ " September 33d, 75 " Loss in four weeks, ej^ lbs., or 8 per cent. II. — The four cheeses made by the machine weighed : August 18th, 741^ lbs. September 3d, 70)1 " September 33d, 67 " Loss in four weeks, 1)4. ^^s., or 10 per cent. 348 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The cheese was sold at Id. a pound when only five weeks old, and no per- ceptible difierence in the quality of the cheese made by hand and that made by the machine could be noticed. All were equally good and fine-flavored cheeses. Eighty gallons of milk when made by hand into cheese thus produced seventy-five pounds, and when made by the machine only sixty-seven pounds of salable cheese. Since the whey from the machine-made cheese Avas rather the poorer, fully as great a weight of cheese might have been expected when the machine was used as when the ordinary plan of manipulation was adopted. To account for this difference of eight pounds, it may be supposed that the machine-made cheese was drier than the other; but the preced- ing weighings show that whereas the No. I cheeses lost in four weeks only eight per cent, in weight, the No. II cheeses made by machine lost ten per cent., indicating thereby that the latter were more moist than the former. Direct determinations, indeed, showed that the machine-made cheese contained more water than that made in the ordinary way. In the former I found 37.20 per cent, and in the latter 36.77 per cent, of water ; but this difference is not sufficient to account for the results. The case was puzzling ; equal quantities of milk had in each case been carefully measured out; rather less matter had been left in the whey which came from the machine ; the cheese differed but little in respect of moisture ; but for an accidental observation I should have been completely at a loss to explain the anomaly. I found out by chance that the dairymaid was deter- mined not to be beaten by the machine, and to prove her skill by making a larger quantity by hand than by the machine. The two trials were made in two adjoining rooms, and watching the making of the two sets of cheese from beginning to end, I found the dairymaid in the act of incorporating some cheese-parings from the preceding day's make with the hand-made cheese. Whether these parings were specially reserved for the coming trial or not I cannot say ; but I certainly saw her take them from a tolerably large supply which she kept under the cheese-tub. The examination of the two samples of whey had, however, in my opinion, afforded sufficient evidence of the fact that no matter how cheese is made, a considerable proportion of the nitrogenized compounds of the milk is left in the whey ; and that this loss is unavoidable, and not necessarily greater in the ordinary plans of operation than by the use of a machine. All the experimental cheeses were received by me on the 28th of Sep- tember, 1860. One of them which was made by the machine got injured in the trans- mission from the dairy to Cirencester. It weighed sixteen and a-half pounds. A portion of the cheese was analyzed on the 28 th of September, and yielded the following results : Practical Dairy Husbandry. 349 Water 37.30 Batter, 37.30 *Caseine, 34 . 50 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ' -44 f Mineral matters (asli), 3.56 100.00 * Containing nitrogen, 3.92 \ Containing common salt, 85 The cheeses were kept for a considerable length of time, principally for the purpose of ascertaining the loss in weight which they sustained in keeping. On the 28th of September the eight»cheeses weighed: No. 1 2 3 4 MACHINE-MADE. lbs .... 161^ .... 1734 .... 16K .... 161^ No. 1 . 3 . 3 . 4. HAND-MADE. lbs. ... 18^ ... 17 ... 18% ... 30 Total 66K On the 9th of November they weighed : Total 741^ No. 1 3 3 4 Consumed MACHINE-MADE. lbs. .... 15% .... 16% .... 15% LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. No. 1. 3. 3. 4. HAND-MADE. lbs. .... 18M .... 16M .... 18M .... 19% LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. 1^ Weights on the 19tli of January, 1861 No. 1. MACmNE-MADE. lbs. 14 15 14M LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. 3M 3 4 Consumed Weights on the 12th of February, 1861 HAND-MADE. No. lbs. 1 16% ^^ 3 Consumed on the 9tli JNov. 3 161^ 4 1834 LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. 2 334 3 No. 1., 2., 3. MACHINE-MADE. lbs. 13% 14% 14 LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. 3% 2^ No. 1 Consumed. 2 Consumed. 3 4 HAND-MADE. lbs. LOSS SINCE 28th SEPT. lbs. 16 17% 3% 3K 4 Consumed. Accordingly forty-two and a-half pounds of machine-made cheese lost from the time they were ready for sale until the 12th of February— that is, a period of not quite five months — seven and three-quarters pounds, or eighteen per cent. ; while thirty-three and three-quarter pounds of the hand-made cheese lost in the same period five and a-quarter pounds, or fifteen and a-half per cent. ; thus showing plainly that the hand-made cheeses were rather drier than those made by the machine. These weighings likewise show the economy of selling cheese as soon as possible after it is ready for the market. One of the cheeses made by hand was analyzed on the 21st of January, 1861, and found to contain in one hundred parts : 350 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Water, 01 oe Butter, .•:;:.■.•:;.•.■.■:.•.■.■.•::;::;: sJ.I? *Caseine, gg „„ Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c., ." ] 001^ fMineral matters (ash), .!!!.*.!!'...!!'.*.!,".*."" 4 45 *r. . . . . lao.oo * Uontaming nitrogen, ^ «^ f Contaiuing common salt, ,.,, ........',. ,,]\\ " 135 During the time of keeping it became, of course, drier and correspondingly richer in butter. Two skim-cheeses made on the 8tR of August, 1860, weighed on the 18th of August, thirty-one and a-half pounds ; on the 3d September, thirty pounds ; and on the 22d of September, twenty-eight pounds, and were then considered ready for sale. Kept still longer they lost considerably in weight, as will be seen by the following weighings : WEIGHT OF TWO SKIM CHEESES. SEPTEMBER 28th. NOVEMBER 9th. JANUARX 19th. 1861. FEBEUART 12th, 1861. No. lbs. lbs. lbs. lbs. 1 13 12K n% 11 2 15 14K 13g 12% Total 28 27 24^ 23^ Total loss in weight in not quite five months, 4}^ lbs., or 15 per cent. A portion of one of the skim-cheeses was analyzed on the 19th of Feb- ruary, 1861, with the following results : ^^1^'' 27.68 *^^^"F 30.80 *Caseme gg ^o Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1 46 fMineral matters (ash).. 4 '94 100.00 * Containing nitrogen g g2 f Containing common salt .".'.".".'.".'.".*.*.'."' 1 27 This^ cheese was hardly inferior to a good whole-milk cheese, and might readily have been sold as such. It is a well-ascertained fact that towards the fall of the year cows produce much less but richer milk than in spring and summer. This is strikingly illustrated by the various quantities of cheese which are obtained at different times of the year, from a given quantity of milk, as will be seen by the follow- ing results with which Mr. Haeeison kindly supplied me : <,^-, '^^S'^'^ beginninar of August, 160 gallons of milk produced 8 cheeses, weighing on the 22d of September 142 lbs. On the 19tb of October, 110 gallons of milk produced 7 cheeses, weighing on the 31st of December, 108i^ lbs. On the 29th of November, 60 gallons of milk produced 5 cheeses, weicliinff 70 lbs. on the 13th of February. On the 29th of November the cows were still out to grass, and had no extra food but hay. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 351 In conclusion I may mention an experiment which Mr. Harding of Marks- bury made at my request, with a view of converting into cheese, if possible, the curd-like substance which is not coagulated by rennet, together with any suspended particles of butter usually occurring in whey. To this end seventy gallons of whey were heated to the boiling point, and kept for some time at that temperature. The curd-like substance which sepa- rated was collected on a cloth, and after the addition of a little salt, placed in the cheese-press. After remaining in it for three days eighteen ounces of whey-cheese were obtained. This cheese had a peculiar granular texture, and even after long keeping did not ripen proj)erly like other cheese. The high temperature at which it was produced evidently prevents the necessary fer- mentation which curd must undergo before it becomes mellow, and salable as human food. The small quantity of eighteen ounces from seventy gallons, moreover, appears hardly sufficient to repay for the trouble. On the whole it would appear to be quite as profitable to set the whey for butter, and to give the skimmed whey to the pigs. As a matter of curiosity I append an analysis of the whey-cheese, which although very rich in fatty matters, had a bad texture and quite an inferior flavor. COMPOSITION OF WHET-CHEESB. Moisture 30.23 Butter 44.37 *Caseine 21.50 Extractive matters, lactic acid, &c 1.52 fMineral matters (ash) 2.48 100.00 * Containing nitrogen 3.44 f Containing common salt 1.83 I PRELIMINARY TO CHEESE-MAKWa Before entering upon the subject of cheese manufacture in detail, I have some few remarks to make on topics omitted in previous pages. CLEANSING DAIRY UTENSILS. Before commencing the operation of milking, it is important that the pails and cans be clean and sweet. This is an old story, which every dairy- man has probably heard over and over again, and understands perfectly in the abstract. The cleansing of pails and cans usually belongs to the female portion of the household, and some would take it as an offense to be told that their dairy utensils are not kept clean and in order ; but it is a fact that many dairywomen, though patterns in neatness generally, do not understand when a milk pail is in proper order to be used. It is a common practice to take wooden pails after milking, clean the outside and rinse them in cold water. The water is turned into the first pail, and a cloth may perhaps be used to brush around the water. Then the contents of the pail are emptied . into the second pail, and thus the whole lot is treated. Then the pails are a second time rinsed and turned down to drain and dry, and are pronounced clean and sweet. This is the evening management. In the morning the same operation is performed with hot water, that is, water not so hot but that the hand may be borne in it, without seriously discommoding the operator. To the common observer pails treated in this way may appear perfectly sweet and clean ; but to those who understand the nature of milk ferments, these utensils are positively filthy. A close observation about the corners at the bottom, about the ears of the pail, and often upon the sides, will reveal a gum-like substance, which consists of minute particles of milk, adhering to the surface and drying down, having the appearance of discolored white paint. After awhile this gummy substance becomes so thick that it arrests the attention of the dairymaid, and she forthwith scours it off with salt or otherwise, and the pails present a whiter aspect. But of the damage that has been done from day to day to the milk from these germs of ferment, especially if the weather has been warm, she has no idea, and often will not be convinced. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 353 A great deal of trouble with milk at factories and private dairies arises from improperly cleaned pails ; for it is surprising how small a quantity of this old decomposed milk will set a large quantity of good milk in a ferment. 4 FlGTTBI! 1. My OAvn experiments upon this point have been numerous, and with those who have carefully studied the nature of milk the question has never for a moment been disputed. It was on account of the carelessness and negligence in cleansing wooden milk pails, that I long since denovmced them as a mcisance, and I am glad to say that Dairy Associations in New York, in Ohio, in Canada and the Northwest have sustained this opinion, and resolu- tions recommending their banishment from the dairy, and the use of tin in their place. We introduce cuts of approved tin milk pails — the Millae pail, that of the Iron Clad Co., and the Ralph pail. Millak's tin milk pails (Fig. 1) are made from four cross tin, imported on purpose for them, have but one seam in the body of the pail and are soldered very smoothly. A tinned malleable iron rim or band is soldered firmly to the bottom in- closing it, and is so constructed as to thor- oughly protect and support it and to raise it sufficiently to prevent it from resting on the floor and from picking up the dirt ; it is also convenient for tipping the pail. The Avire in the upper edge of the pail is inclosed by the tin and then soldered so that it cannot rust. The bail is made from the best tinned wire. 23 riGURE 2. 354 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ^ The Iron Clad Co. pail is also of heavy tin, substantially made, the bottom being convex to give it strength. It is shown in Fig. 2. The Ralph pail is of tin, and has a concave bottom. It is made in two styles, the one with a rim on the bottom, and the other as a tin lining to a wooden pail. Figs. 3 and 4 represent the last named style. FiGUBE 3. Figure 4. In cleansing dairy utensils, it should be understood that neither cold or warm water is sufficient to destroy the germs of ferment contained in these particles of decomposed milk. To be efficient, the water must be at the boiling point, or 212°. Dr. Voelcker well remarks, in speaking of this point, that " it is important to ascertain that the water is perfectly boiling ; and yet it is strange that few women, comparatively speaking, though they have spent many years in the kitchen, know to a certainty when the kettle is really boiling." " This remai'k," he adds, " applies to some educated as well as uneducated females. They often mistake the singing voice of the tea kettle, accompanied by a certain amount of vapor, for a sign that water is in a state of ebullition." Now go through the country, and how many dairies will be found where attention is given to this matter of boiling water in cleansing cans and pails ? Probably not one in one hundred. It is tpue when tin is used the difficulty of cleaning is not so great as with wood, since the metal will not absorb liquids ; and yet we hear of much complaint from imperfectly cleansed milk pails and cans. At a meeting of the American Dairy Association, Mr. Moon of Herkimer, in discussing the question of floating curds^ gave an instance where this trouble was had in one vat of milk at the factory every day for a week. The cause was finally traced to a certain dairy, and an examination of the milk utensils revealed the fact, that under the small piece of tin soldered around the vent hole in the can cover, some milk had leaked through the imperfect solder. Here had lodged small particles of milk which, decomposing or becoming putrid, was the cause of the trouble. The covers were repaired and properly cleaned, and afterwards there were no floating curds. The plan of Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365 cleansing and steaming the cans with a jet of hot steam, as practiced by the Elgin Condensing Works, is worthy of imitation, and should be adopted by every factory. And I believe that unless farmers take this matter more at heart, and resolve to be more careful with dairy utensils and in the delivery of milk at the factories, the same losses and troubles that have been going on for years past will continue. The question is of vital importance, and cannot be too frequently urged upon the dairy public. MILKING. Farmers generally have the impression that when milch cows have win- tered well and are fairly out to grass there need be but little care or attention given to the animals, and that then in their herds they have a fountain that is to supply good, pure milk simj)ly by drawing it, not much matter how or when. It is true people understand that when cows are milked with great irregularity, or are subjected to any extraordinary brutal treatment — such as sundry kicks in the udder with a heavy boot, they will yield unprofitable results, since the consequence of such management forces itself almost imme- diately upon the attention. But it is not those things that come so plainly under the eye of the observer, concerning which I propose to speak. If an angry man kicks his cow in the udder, some of the blood-vessels of the part will probably be ruptured, and the bloody milk which flows from the teats will speak more forcibly than any words of mine ; but if he kicks her in the ribs, or mauls her with a milking-stool upon the hips and back, the conse- quences may not be so immediately apparent, yet that damage is done and that loss will follow, is equally certain. I am speaking of no exceptional cases, but of those that are of common occurrence wherever any considerable herd is kept, and when the eye of the master is not sharp to detect and punish these offenses. The pressing want in the dairy districts to-day is for good, kind, humane laborers, who can be trusted to do the milking in a proper manner. Many of these people do not understand that any pai'ticular loss is to follow from a moderately brutal and cruel treatment of cattle. I have always advised dairymen to make a special contract with laborers who are to be employed about the dairy. Let it be understood that the moment a cow is maltreated, that moment a settlement is to be made and the party offending to be discharged with a reasonable deduction from his wages. This fairly understood at the time of hiring, together with proper oversight of the animals, and those about the dairy will go far to mitigate a great and growing evil. It is a lamentable fact that there are a large number of ailing milch cows in the dairy districts — cows that are not in vigorous health, that fall off in milk, that have sick turns, now and then, which, if the history of their treatment was known, could all be traced to the causes I have enumer- ated. A rap upon the spine with the stool has ruined many a valuable beast ; a stroke upon the udder has often produced unaccountable cases of garget. 356 Practical Dairy Husbandry. I wish it could be generally and thoroughly understood, that nothing pays better in the dairy than kindness and gentleness to stock. Milch cows should be kept as quiet and comfortable as possible, and no person should be employed in milking that the animals fear. Any undue nervous excitement not only lessens the quantity but depreciates the quality of the milk. Some- times cows take a dislike to their milker, and in such cases a change should be made, otherwise there is a liability of the cow falling off in her milk. I have seen several cases of this kind, and although such freaks are quite unaccount- able, it will always be found better to change the milker if possible, rather than to attempt to conquer this j^eculiarity. I do not approve the practice, common with some dairymen, of the milkers milking the cows indiscrimi- nately. The hands should each select a certain number of cows and continue to milk them from day to day throughout the season. The hours of milking should be regular, and each cow should be milked in regular order. The milk should be drawn rapidly and to the last drop, and all loud talking, singing, and wrangling avoided. These are little things in themselves, and may seem to many to be " over nice ;" but repeated and Avell-conducted experiments have convinced me that they are important points to be attended to, and must be observed to obtain the best results. I always insist that the milkers STUDY THE DISPOSITION OF THE COWS under their charge, that they become familiar or perfectly acquainted with each animal, patting them, or in other ways making them understand that you are friendly and fond of them. When once their confidence has been obtained in this way they will exhibit affection in return, and will yield in the increased quantity of milk more than enough to pay for the time and trouble given to the purpose indicated. Some cows are extremely nervous and excitable ; such require caution and attention in management, otherwise they soon become worthless for the dairy. IN DRIVING CATTLE PROM THE PASTURE to the stable they should never be hurried or made to go faster than a walk. Good cows have well-filled udders, which make it painful to move over the ground faster than a walk. Besides, in warm weather, by hurrying the animal there is always danger of over-heating her blood and milk, and thus not only injuring it, but all the other milk with which it comes in contact. Dogs should never be allowed in a dairy. They are the source of infinite mischief. In all my observations I have never yet met with a strictly first-class dairy of cheese, where the cows were dogged from the pasture to the stable. What I desire to impress upon the mind is, that these truths should be understood not only in the abstract, but that they be carried into practice. Neither good butter nor good cheese can be made from diseased milk ; nor can good milk be had from diseased cows. i Practical Dairy Husbandry. 357 WETTING THE TEATS WITH MILK. Some people are in the habit, when first sitting down to milk, of drawing a little milk to wet their hands and the teats of the cow. It is not a cleanly- practice and should always be avoided. I have seen milkers with their hands gummed up with filth, and the reeking compound of milk, dirt and manure, oozing out from between the fingers and dropping into the pail, as the result of this bad habit referred to. In some dairies a great deal of milk is tainted in this way, and not unfrequently this taint shows itself in a very marked degree in the butter and cheese manufactured. Many thoughtless persons have the impression that milk in some way purifies itself and that taints imparted in the way I have named cannot be carried into the butter and cheese. Such ideas are very erroneous, and the sooner correct notions are had in regard to the purity and cleanliness of milk for dairy purposes, the sooner shall we arrive at a higher standard of excellence in dairy products, and as a consequence better prices be obtained. MILK WITH DRY HANDS. Cows do not milk any easier with wet hands than with dry hands. If the udder or teats are muddy or covered with filth, they should be washed with clean water and wiped dry. Then milk with dry hands and it will soon be found easier and pleasanter, even with those who have been accustomed to wetting the hands and teats while milking. In summer, when cows are running upon clean upland pastures, the udder and teats will generally be clean, except perhaps in wet weather. If there is no occasion to wash the udder and teats, it is always well to brush over the parts with the hands or with a cloth to remove any particles of dust or loose hairs adhering and then set the pail in position and commence to milk with dry hands. Uncleanliness in milking is one of the great faults in the dairies of this country, and it is one of the causes of bad "flavor in dairy products. Every dairyman should fully explain this mat- ter to hired help and insist upon cleanly habits in milking. That the fault referred to is a serious one and more general than some would at first imagine, can very easily be demonstrated by visiting any of the factories at the time the milk is being delivered. Let the milk strainers then be closely scrutinized, and they will often be found to present a most disgustingly filthy appearance. If this mass of filth could be shown to some uncleanly milkers, I hardly think they would be willing to taste milk filtered through such material. EXPERIMENTS IN COAGULATING MILK. Various attempts have been made from time to time to find a substitute for rennet in cheese-making. Acids have been used for this purpose, and are to some extent employed in Holland at the present time. It is claimed by some that when acids are used for coagulating the milk a larger percentage of curd is obtained, and that the cheese has longer keeping qualities than when rennet is used ; but I believe it to be generally conceded that no sub- stance has as yet been found equal to rennet for making a fine, delicate- 358 Pb ACTIO AL DaIRY HUSBANDRY. flavored cheese, such as the markets in England now demand. In regard to the use of acids for coagulating milk we have some interesting experiments! | made by an English manufacturer, and detailed by him as follows : * He procured four pints of milk of the same cow, having a-specific gravity of 10.32; to one, rennet was added in the ordinary manner, to the second, tar- taric acid, to the third, acetic acid, and to the fourth, hydro-chloric, or- muriatic acid. After the lapse of about half-an-hour the curd had formed inl the milk to which the rennet had been added. The curd and the whey exhibited to test paper the slightest possible acid reaction, and both were perfectly sweet to the taste ; further, it was observed that the curd was very soft and readily broken up, while the serum or whey was somewhat white and opaque, from the retention of a certain amount of the butter of the milk. For the coagulation of the second pint of milk thirty-seven grains of tartaric acid were required ; the coagulation was effected immediately on the addition of the acid ; the whey and curd both exhibited to test paper a strong acid reaction and were also perceptibly acid to the taste. The curd in this case was firmer, and the whey clear and transparent, almost like water, showing that the whole of the butter had been precipitated with the curd. No less than one hundred and forty drops by measure of the acetic acid, of weight or specific gravity, 10.46, were necessary to precipitate the whole of the curd contained in the third pint of milk. The curd and whey pre- sented nearly the same character as in the previous case. Of muriatic acid, of specific gravity, 11.65, seventy-five drops were added before the whole of _ the curd in the fourth pint of milk was thrown down ; the curd and whey I were more decidedly acid than in the former cases. In other respects their characters were nearly the same. The whey was carefully separated from the curd in each case, when it was ascertained that those curds which had beenfl formed by the addition of acids were heavier and more bulky than those from the rennet. The curds were then well washed with brine ; this occa- sioned some loss, especially of the rennet curd. The application of the brine was made in order the more completely to separate the whey, rennet and acids employed in the precipitation of the curds. Lastly, the curds were salted and pressed into small cheeses, those made with the acids being the largest. AMOUNT OF ACIDS REQUIRED. For the coagulation, then, of one gallon of milk, no less than five drachms of tartaric acid, or rather more than two and one-fourth ounces of acetic acid, or one and one-fourth ounces of muriatic acid would be required. The prices of these would be about one-halfpenny, one penny, and one-half penny, ster- ling, or very nearly, in American coin, one cent, two cents, and one cent. The cost of these articles, therefore, it is evident, is an important element to be considered. The cheese made with the acids were firmer, sharper to the taste, and were of longer-keeping qualities than the one in the preparation of which rennet was used ; but the last was richer and more delicate in flavor. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 359 the advantages of acids over eennet would seem, from these experiments, to be that the yield of curd is some- what greater ; that their operation is certain, and that the coagulation is effected without loss of time. On the other hand, they are expensive, and the flavor of the cheese is not equal to the standard now set up as fine in the English markets ; that is, a cheese preserving unimpaired the combined flavor of the caseine and butter of the milk. These expex-iments may be interesting to cheese manufacturers, and may serve as a basis or guide for future experi- ments, by those who are looking for a substance different from rennet for coagulating milk in cheese-making. The acid usually employed by the Dutch is muriatic acid. Some of the Dutch cheese is excellent, and is highly relished by those who have acquired a taste for this character of cheese. EENNETS. There is a great deal of loose writing and bad advice about rennets. There is a great difference in the strength of rennets, and so there is a great difference in the action of living stomachs for digesting food. Some stom- achs are naturally weak, or have less vital energy than others. This is of frequent occurrence in the human family, and is not confined to it alone, but extends to the brute creation. Calves that are delicate eaters, that have weak stomachs and impaired digestion, yield weak rennets. It is the strong, healthy, vigorous calf, and one that has a perfect digestive apparatus, that will give a rennet of great strength. I have made some carefully conducted experiments on this point, which have convinced me that one source, at least, of weak rennets, is due to the cause I have named. There are other causes, as when the stomachs have been improperly saved and prepared. Many salt down the stomachs in a cask or tub. It is a very bad practice, and has been the cause of a great deal of mischief in the dairy. The trouble with salting down rennets and packing a considerable number together is this : If one diseased or bad rennet gets into the cask, it communicates its taint to the whole mass, and the leaven once having been added, develops with wonderful rapidity, so soon as circumstances become favorable, — and these circumstances do become favorable, when it is added to the milk at a temperature as high as 80®. WHAT CALVES TO TAKE EENNETS FEOM. Rennets should only be saved from healthy calves ; from those that have been allowed all the milk they will take for at least four days, and up to within some twelve or fourteen hours of slaughter. A calf that has been starved will be likely to have a diseased and inflamed stomach, and if it is used for cheese-making it will most assuredly impair the flavor of the cheese, A good, healthy stomach having been selected, the contents should be emptied out and all specks wiped off. Then it should either be blown up like a bladdei-, or slightly salted and stretched on a forked stick, and hung up in a dry atmosphere, only moderately warm. 360 Practical Dairy Husbandry. IiEJSrJ!fETS BADLY PKEPARED. Some cheese-makers prepare rennets badly, by soaking in wooden casks or barrels. There are many tons of cheese spoiled in flavor every year simply on this account. It is almost an impossibility to keep a wooden vessel sweet that is used for steeping rennet. I have used the most scrupulous care, over and over again, with Avooden vessels, and have never succeeded in keeping them sweet for any considerable length of time. Rennet tubs and rennets are often tainted when the cheese-maker is not aware of the fact. I have frequently been called to examine cheese that was out of flavor, or acting badly, with a view of discovering the difficulty, and have often found the whole trouble to come from a tainted rennet cask. So important do I consider this single point, that it may be laid down as a rule that no first- class, high-flavored cheese can be made, for any considerable length of time, where wooden casks are used for steeping rennets. THE STEEPING VESSELS should be of stone ware. They are manufactured now for the purpose, of various sizes — of five, ten, twenty or more gallons. We give illustration of the jar (Fig. 5). Farmers who have been so unfortunate as to have had pork tainted in the barrel, know how difficult it is to cleanse the cask ; and many who have attempted it have lost their pork, by packing in a barrel that has once been tainted. Rennets are more liable to taint, while steeping, than salt meats, and common sense should teach us that wooden vessels ought never to be employed for the purpose. STEEPING IN WHET. Rennets are more efficient when steeped in FiGUKE 5. whey ; but the whey should be free from taint in the first instance, and then freed from its albuminous matter. Rennet does not act on the albumen of milk, and this nitrogenous constituent passes off in the whey. Albumen coagulates at a high temperature. By heating the whey to boiling, the albuminous matter coagulates, and may be skimmed off. This should be done soon after drawing the whey from the vats, and before it has begun to ferment and putrefy. When whey is used for steeping rennet, before it is freed from albumen, it is often decomposed and putrid, and a very dangerous ferment is therefore added to the milk, which carries a taint to the cheese. Some people save the whey that runs from the press in which to steep rennets. This is a very bad practice. On putting cheese to press, a whitish, milky substance often flows out at the first pressure. This whey is probably highly charged with albumen. The whey having been freed from its albumen, if set aside, makes a very sharp acid, and is alto- Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. ■ 361 gether the best liquid for steeping rennet that has yet been discovered. It is this purified whey that should be used for developing an acid condition of the curds, when necessary. After the rennets have been soaked, and rubbed to extract their strength (and this will occupy several days, the rubbing being performed at least three or four times), the liquor should then be strained off into a clean stone cask or rennet jar, and is fit for use. The rennets are then to be put to soak again with whey as at first, and are rubbed from time to time until their strength is exhausted. They may then be taken out, washed in whey, and the liquor added to that in the jar and the rennets thrown away. It is not a good prac- tice to add new rennets to those that have been steeping, and thus keep a batch of rennets in soak during the whole season, as there is more liability of their becoming tainted ; and when their strength has once been exhausted they are useless in the rennet jar, and it is better to have them out of it. When sour whey is used for steeping but little salt is needed. The rennets should not be allowed to float on the whey. By using a stone crock cover, they may be kept at the bottom of the whey. EXAMINE RENNETS DAILY. I hardly need to add that rennets should be examined daily, while steep- ing, and the liquor stirred to keep it sweet and free from taint. Nor should the liquor be used from the crock where the rennets are steeping, before being strained through a thin cloth, as small pieces rubbed from the skins get into the milk, and are worked up into the curds. PREPARING RENNET ENGLISH METHOD. I have given what I consider the best method to be adopted by dairy- men and at factories for the preparation of rennet for cheese-making. I now give the method recommended in the best dairies of England, and it may be found suggestive in many particulars. It is always an advantage to the cheese that the rennet should be prepared some time before it is wanted for use ; and English dairymen recommend that it should be made in February or March, and that as large a quantity be provided as can be conveniently done, consistently with the size of the dairy. They find large olive jars useful for steeping the rennet, some of which will hold thirty gallons. A hole is made at the bottom to draw the rennet, and they think it much better to draw it in this way from the bottom, than to disturb it at the top by dip- ping out. A wooden tap should be used, as the acidity of the liquid has an injurious effect on a metal one. They have a piece of board with holes per- forated in it to put into the jar under the veils or rennets, to prevent their . getting to the bottom and obstructing the liquid running out by getting against the taps. The rennet is prepared by first making a. brine strong enough to bear an Qg^. It is then boiled for half an hour, and when quite cold put into the jar. For every two gallons of brine six veils are added, one lemon, sliced, and one ounce of saltpeter. They claim that rennet should 362 Practical Dairy Husbandry. always be prepared at least two months before using, and there will then be less cause for the cheese to be affected with undue fermentation, which is injurious to fine flavor. ASSOCIATED DAIRYING. The idea of associated dairying, as has been remarked, is claimed to have originated in Europe. The system, it is true, has been practiced to some extent in Switzerland and in France, but it differs materially from that of this country. The European system grew out of a necessity. It was the offspring of poverty rather than of wealth. The peasants of a neighborhood, each having one or two cows, united them in one lai'ge herd. They employed a herdsman in common, and sent him with the herd to the mountainous por- tions of the Alps. Here the herdsman and his assistants take charge of the cattle for a certain number of months, turning the milk into cheese, which, at the end of the season, is divided among the owners of the cows, in propor- tion to the number furnished by each. Cheese cannot be manufactured to advantage from one or two cows ; but under this system the poorest peasant makes the product- of his one cow compete successfully in the market with that made from the large herds of the wealthy, since it is similar in shape and quality. In other words, he has a merchantable article, which he could not obtain singly and alone. Now, the European system accomplished no grand results. It did not spread, or become generally adopted among the nations. It developed no new principle, either in the art of manufacturing the milk or in the economy of laboi'-saving appliances. It attracted no particular attention, because it developed nothing new. Associated dairying in America may be said to be the first successful movement in this direction. What distinguishes the American system is the constant effort to reduce the whole art and practice of dairying to a science. The buildings, the appliances, the manipulations in the various departments, are matters of study, and of progress and econ- omy. The grand result sought is to make associated capital pay better than non-associated capital. It is a new application of an old principle. It is adapting the rule to farming that has been found successful in commerce and manufactures. THE POPULAE METHOD OF ORGANIZING FACTORIES, and one which seems to give good satisfaction, is to make them joint-stock concerns. The ground is selected, and an estimate made of buildings, machinery and fixtures. The whole cost is then divided up into shares of fifty to one hundred dollars each, and the neighboring farmers, or those favor- able to the movement, take stock in proportion to the number of cows from which they are to deliver milk. Officers are chosen, and the company man- aged as a joint-stock company. "We give the following forms, as a guide to companies about erecting factories, or for old factories which have been operating without any written form or regulations : Practical Dairy Husbandry. 363 FORM FOR CERTIFICATE OF STOCK. Cream Cheese Dairy Manufacturing Company. Organized 1865. No. 1872. [cut] One Share. It is hereby Certified^ That United States Grant is the propiHe- tor of one share in the Capital Stock of the Cream Cheese Dairy Manufactur- ing Company, each share being One Hundred Dollars, transferable ordy on the books of tlie Company by the Stockholder, or by an Attorney duly constituted, on the return of this Certificate. In Testimony Whereof, the President and Secretary have hereunto set their hands, at Lenox, this 2d day of February, 1871. General Thomas, President. John Ditto, Secretary. The following form is printed on back of the certificate : For Value Received, hereby sell and transfer to.: . . . .Share of tlie within mentioned stock, and do hereby countenance and appoint. Attorney to transfer the same on the books of tJie Company. Witness, luind and seal , this day of 187. . rules for organizing factories. "We, the undersigned, hereby agree and unite ourselves into a body or association for the purpose of erecting and building a Cheese Factory, and for the purpose also of running said factory to make cheese from the milk which shall or may be brought in from time to time to said factory by members of the asso- ciation and other persons, to be made or manufactured into cheese at a certain price for the work and materials expended from time to time, to be fixed by the association. Said building or manufactory is to be one hundred feet by thirty-four in size, and three stories high, to be built of good and substantial materials, and suitable and convenient in its arrangements for the pur- pose intended, and is to be located on the land of It shall be known by the name and style of , and it is agreed by and between the parties to these presents, that they shall and will at all times during the continuance of such association bear, pay and discharge equally between them, all cost of building said factory, and all rents and other expenses, and for liired help that may be required for the support and management of the said business ; and that all gains, profits and increase that shall come, grow or arise from or by means of the said business, shall be divided between them, said association, share and share alike ; and all loss that shall happen to them in said joint business, by all commodities, or by bad debts or otlierwise, shall be borne and paid equally between them ; and there shall be kept just and true books of account and entry of the resolutions and doings of said association, showing the true state of the operations of said association by reason or on account of said business, and all matters and things whatsoever to the said business and management thereof in any wise belonging ; which said books shall be used in common between the members of said association, so that either of them may have access thereto without any interruption or hindrance of the other. And it is hereby further agreed that all questions arising as to the way and manner of conducting said business and as to the person or persons to be employed as help by the association, and all and every matter of interest, of whatever thing or nature, to the association, shall always, in case of dispute, be decided by a majority vote, which shall be entered of record and the time for the continuance of said association or of any member thereof, and entry of any new member shall, in case of dispute, be decided in the same way, and recorded. In witness whereof, the parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals, this day of 18 ANOTHER FORM FOR ORGANIZING. Article I. This Association shall be known as the Dairy Manufacturing Company. Art. n. The business of this association shall be under the direction and control of a Board of three Directors, There shall also be a Secretary and Treasurer ; all of which shall hold their respective offices one year, and until others are elected. Art. HI. The annual meeting of this company shall be held on the first Saturday in January of each year, at the cheese house belonging to this company, at two o'clock, P. M., at which time the officers authorized by the second article shall be elected, and any and all business connected with this company shall be lawfully transacted — each share of stock being entitled to one vote. 364 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Akt. rV. At said annual meeting said directors shall make a report in ■writing of the financial condition of the company, showing all moneys received and expended by said directors. Art. V. The Secretary shall keep a record of all meetings of the company, for the examination of stockholders ; also a list of stockholders and of all transfer of stock reported him. Abt. VI. It shall be the duty of the President of the Board of Directors, in connection with the Secretary, to issue certificates of the capital stock of the company to each shareholder — each share to be one hundred dollars ; also to issue new certificates in case of transfer, to the party purchasing the same, all of which shall be duly numbered, dated and recorded. Art. VII. All sale or transfer of the capital stock of this company shall be in writing, and be reported to the Secretary within thirty days after such sale or transfer, or be of no binding form on the company. Art. VIII. All moneys paid by the Treasurer shall be by the consent of the Directors, and on the written order of the President of such Board of Directors. Art. IX. Any stockholder refusing or failing to promptly pay any and all assessments made on his stock (not exceeding one hundred dollars on each share) within the time ordered, shall forfeit to the company any and all payments formerly made, but nothing in the article shall release such delinquent stockholder from a suit at law for the recovery of any assessments due and unpaid by him. Art. X. The Directors shall not incumber or impair otherwise the property of this company. Art. XI. A special meeting may be held in pursuance of a call of the Directors in writing to be filed with the Secretary, giving at least (7) seven days' notice of the time and place of such meeting ; and it shall be the duty of the Secretary, in case of such notice of a special meeting being delivered to him, to post in (3) three public places, and also an the cheese house front door, a written notice of the time and place of such meeting. It shall also be the duty of the Secretary to give notice of the annual meeting of the com- pany, by posting (3) three notices as provided for a special meeting. Art. XII. The capital stock of this company shall be Three Thousand Dollars, in shares of One Hundred Dollars each. Art. XIII. The foregoing By-Laws, or any one of them, may be repealed or amended at any annual meeting, by a majority vote of the stock represented, there being not less than sixteen shares represented at such meeting. CKEAM CHEESE DAIRY MANUFACTURING CO. NOTICE TO PATRONS. The Directors are happy to announce to the public that they have secured the valuable services of Mr. Wm. Shakspeare, and that they will be prepared to commence the manufacture of Cheese on Monday, April 12th, upon the following TERMS : 1, Two Dollars, Twelve and one-half Cents per Hundred Pounds (to be deducted from the receipts at eacn sale), and one good rennet for each four hundred pounds of cheese ; which shall include manufacturing, curing, furnishing and ordinary expense, delivering the cheese at the door of the dry house ready for market. S. The company will not be responsible for any loss by fire, theft, or other similar cause. 3. It is expressly understood that every person sending milk to this Factory will conform to the following REGULATIONS : 1. All milk to be received for manufacture must be carefully strained and brought to the factory in a tin can without faucet, pure and sweet. 2. Any milk which by reason of negligence, uncleanliness or other cause, is not in suitable condition for use WILL be rejected if discovered before it is let into the vat. 3. If any person shall bring milk which has been skimmed, watered, or otherwise tampered with in a manner forbidden by law, then upon obtaining proof sufficient to convict the ofiender, the directors will prosecute such person and will not compromise or settle only as he pays the full penalty of the law and ALL DAMAGE ACCRUING FROM HIS OFFENSE, 4. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer, at least once in each week, to carefully test the milk from each and every dairy, and in case he shall find any that has been skimmed or watered or otherwise in viola- tion of law, shall at once report the same to the dii-ectors, and to no other person, and they will then take such measures as they think expedient to obtain conclusive proof against the offender. 5. It is necessary that milk should be delivered at the factory before eight o'clock in the morning of each day, and the manufacturer will not be required to receive it after that time. 6. Each patron may take from the factory his share of whey in proportion each day to the amount of milk delivered the day previous ; the-quantity to be regulated by the manufacturer. 7. These regulations shall apply to each director in all respects the same as to any other patron. DAN'L WEBSTER, ) HENRY CLAY, ^Directors. Cbeam Hill, N. Y., April 10th, 1871. J. C. CALHOUN, ) SELLING THE CHEESE. Usually a committee or some one person selected from the patrons, is chosen as salesman of the cheese, whose duty it is to make sales at best prices to be had, to arrange dividends and to pay over shares to patrons, deducting of course the price per pound for manufacturing, which is made to cover all, including the per cent, on cost of buildings and fixtures. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 365 CERTIFICATE OF SALE. The accompanying form should be filled out to be given to each patron at the time of paying over his share of proceeds ; a book of printed blanks being provided for the purpose : form of blank. Old Salisbury Cheese Factory, 1871. Sale No No. of Cheese sold, Price sold for Whole amount of Cheese sold lbs. Milk Comprising Cheese from to both days included. Pounds of Milk required for one pound of Cheese DIVIDEND TO Pounds of Milk, Pounds of Cheese, Amounts due2 cts. per lb. for making, &c., deducted, % , Salesman. PAYIlSrG the MANUFACTURER BY THE POUND. Sometimes a good cheese-maker is employed as manufacturer and manager, at a certain price per pound of the cheese manufactured. This manager employs his laborers or assistants, and bears all expense of running the factory, taking care of cheese, keeping record of milk delivered daily by different patrons, entering the same on the books of the factory, and upon the pass- books of patrons. Often the Company employ the manufacturer and all hands at fixed salaries. Some prefer one plan and some another. The milk is weighed at the factory when delivered, and as experience has shown that every ten pounds of milk (as an average for the season) should make one pound of cured cheese, firm, solid and in good marketable condition, each farmer thus has a daily record in his pass-book of what his herd is yielding. The manager is employed with the understanding that he is to make a good, fair article, and his product is examined from time to time by committees, by experts, and by patrons as they see fit, and thus bad work is soon detected. If the management is not satisfactory the cheese-maker is discharged, or the causes of the bad work traced out and rectified. The stock-holders, and those delivering milk may meet from time to time and deliberate as to sales ; each one voting according to the number of cows from which he delivers milk, and in this way instructions are issued to the salesman. FACTORY OWNED AND MANAGED BY ONE PERSON. Then there is another method of establishing factories. One man or a company erects buildings and bears all expenses of running the factory, charg- ing by the pound of cured cheese for manufacturing. The cheese in this instance, it will be seen, belongs to patrons, who appoint a salesman and con- trol the product precisely as under the other method. We give a form of rules and regulations applicable to such cases ; also to cases where the pro- prietor of a factory pui'chases the milk of patrons. Of course these rules may be varied to meet the views of persons in different localities. 3G6 Practical Dairy Husbandry. EULES AND REGULATIONS FOK THE GOVERNMENT OF THE SINCLEARYILLE CHEESE FACTORY. I. The proprietor of the factory is to make and take care of the cheese, furnish boxes salt swathing, coloring matter, box and weigh the cheese, mark the boxes, make out bills tally out cheese lo ciieese drawers, keep the books, receive the cheese and tally the same at the point of delivery, receive the money tor the cheese and disburse the same among the patrons, for the sum of two cents (.02) per pound; this includes patrons sending milk Ave months. Psitrons .sending milk four months and less than five months will be charged two cents and one mill (.031) per pound Patrons sending milk three months and less than lour months will be charged two cents and two' mills (.023) per pound. Patrons sending milk less than three months will be chareed two cents and three mills (.023) per pound for manufacturing, ^u^igeu iwo cents II. Each patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish one good calf rennet, in good order to each cow's milk sent to the factory, or pay the sum of fifteen cents in lieu thereof. ' in. Each patron shall have such proportion of the money received for the cheese as his milk bears to the whole quantity furnished by patrons during the time he sends milk to the factorv (always subject to part first). ' IV. Each patron shall furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk, and ench one furnishing milk shall strain the same before it is delivered at the factory, and if any is reserved for use, it shall be of an average quality given by his cows. V. The milk of each patron delivered at the factory shall be properly tested once in each month during the season, and the result shall be publicly stated to those patrons requiring the same. VI. Any patron that knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his milk in any form, or takes out the strippings, shall forfeit the sum of iwenty-flve dollars for the first offense, and the sum of fifty dollars for the second otfense, and for the third offense he shall forfeit his whole interest in the factory. If his interest does not amount to seventy-five dollars, he shall pay the proprietor enough to make seventy-five dollars. All forfeit money received shall be disbursed among the patrons interested in tne same, in proportion to their interest. When such facts come to the knowledge of the proprietor, he shall retain the money received for cheese, and dispose of as aforesaid. VII. No milk shall be worked into cheese which, In the judgment of the manufacturer, will be a damage to the general interest of the patrons. VIII. Each patron shall bring his milk as often as the manufacturer shall require, and at or before the time he may require, and all cans must be washed and scalded daily, and kept sweet and clean. ^ IX. Each patron shall be to his proportion of the expense of getting the cheese to market. X. There shall be a coiimittee on sale of cheese, said committee to consist of three persons having interest in the cheese. The committee shall be Wili,iam Reed, Fordyce Sylvester and John D. Barger. Said committee shall have power to sell the cheese once in each week, if in their judgment they think best, and shall see that the cheese is delivered according to contract. XI. That each patron who has a load of cheese at the time of sale shall be notified bv com- mittee on sale of cheese, and if such patron fail to appear at the time specified in the notice, he shall pay all extra necessary expenses and damages for the delivery or failure of the same. XII. There shall be a committee on whey ; that committee shall be composed of three pat- rons, namely, Henry Dunbar, Thomas Speak, Russell, Sears. XIII. Any patron may take his proportion of whey and dispose of the same ns he sees fit, providing he notifies the whey committee in writing of the same on or before he sends his milk to the factory, providing he draws his whey from the bottom of the whey vat; otherwise he will have to stand the loss or gain in proportion to his milk sent to the factory. No patron shall take "■i?^'!?'/*^*^,^'® ^^'"^"^ two-thirds as much in bulk of whey as he sends milk to the factory. No patron enall feed whey to cows when milk is sent to the factory. . ^ XI'^- The whey committee shall have power to dispose of the balance of the whey to the best general interest and advantage of the patrons, in their judgment. XV. That the profit or loss on whey shall be divided or assessed on the patrons owning the same, in proportion to the amount of milk sent to the factory. , ^■^^■^" '^^^ proprietor agrees to make the whey butter, and furnish sufficient to oil the cheese, tne balance to be divided— the patrons to have one-third and the proprietor two-thirds of the profits, the proprietor to furnish salt and tubs. XVII. Resolved, That all cheese sold shall be paid for on delivery. , ^ ^yill- The proprietor shall take care of the cheese up to the first of December. If kept later, a fair compensation is to be allowed him. XIX. Each person furnishing milk to the factory is hereby understood as agreeing to the , Chairman. , Clerk. , Proprietor. EULES POE FACTORY WHERE THE PROPRIETOR PURCHASES THE MILK OF PATRONS. ill ^i 77 ~ < Proprietor of the Cheese Factory, agrees as follows : To purchase the milk of the said Patons of the Cheese Factory for the year 1871, and to commence making cheese on or about the first of April, and close on or about the first of November next. II. For value received, T promise to pay to each patron of the Cheese Factorv. for his or her milk, as follows : As much per pound for his or her milk as the milk of any factory they Practical Dairy Husbandry. 367 ^L°H.f f!^f *l**^?"^.^^''!f JI?®y ''educt expenses for making: and furnishing and gettinff the cheese 'XlnsZ'^^^l'oTj^^^l^^^Lr^l^^^^^^^ "' addition, and take the Ixilk a^t the ^act^o^^.th^ taiaerho,7m;rcir;acl ' mo.ft!.Vmflk ll CT ^'' "^'^^^'"'^^ °f °^«°ey as soon as it can be ascer- IV. The patrons are to choose, on or before the first day of June, one of the following facto- ries for a basis to make our estimates on, namely: Charlotte Center, Arkwright UniorT, Clear Spring:, Walnut Creek or Hamlet Factory. The factory chosen shall be by a v< te of patn/ns at a meeting called tor that purpose. The meeting is to be called by the proprietor at any time when twoor more of the patrons may direct. ux 0.1. aujr uuio wuen V. Each patron may talie his proportion of the whey away ; that is, two-thirds as miioh In bulk as he or she sends milk to the factory. If he or she takes their whey aAvay the v wilTnot be entitled to the benefit of the three per cent., but will be entitled to all othlr tenlfits that anv o„„», J^* f^^^- patron sending milk to the factory is to furnish pure, sweet, unskimmed milk and each one furnishing- milk shall strain the same at the time of milkiAg, and if anvis reseived IV.7- use It shall be of the average quality given by his or her cows. ^ ^®^ ^^' fr. ^^h ,-^"'*' P'^t™" *'iat knowingly skims, waters or adulterates his or her milk in anv wnv or of r.^ l^f^^f 'l'? P®^:^''" I'll'! brinsr his or her milk as often as the manufacturer shall require and dii'?;,^^n'd^^bU'rpt'^'^L^!.n'S^cffl"'^^'^"" "" ^^'^^ ^"^ -"^ »^-'^ -"^^ be washed a^r?Qor Figure 31.— Plan 1. Figuee 31.— Plan 2. Plan 3d shows vats connected to a heater placed in front of them, which can be either right or left. The feed-door can be placed at either end of heater. Many other advantages are claimed for this apparatus besides those previ- ously mentioned, but the following is the most important, viz., the manner of applying the heat. The heating pipes, or those that distribute the hot water in the vat, enter and extend through the vat, on each side of the tin 394 Practical Dairy Husbandry, milk holder, thus clifFasing the heated water equally along the sides of it. The lower or cold water pipe is attached to the bottom of the vat, and as through this pipe the water is continually passing out to the coil, the warmer water is gradually drawn under the tin vat ; thus the bottom is at no time but a little warmer than the milk or curd inside, while the majority of the heat is transmitted through the sides of the tin vat. This is at all times a great desideratum, but especially in the operation of " cooking the curd," as the curd, after it is cut, settles to the bottom. In this appa- ratus the majority of the heat is imparted to the curd by means of the whey, which receives its heat from the sides of the vat; at the same time sufficient heat is imparted to the curd that lays on the bottom to keep it of an equal temperature with the rest. These heaters (Fig. 32) are made in a portable form ; they are constructed on the same principle as the stationary apparatus, except that they are porta- Figfee 31— Plan a ble ; their position can be changed at any time. The heater is inclosed in a cast-iron stove, instead of brick work. In the two smallest sizes this stove is lined with fire brick, to prevent loss of heat by radiation into the room. FiGmtB The two largest sizes have a lining of common brick work, laid up on the the inside of the castings, for the same purpose. They require but a small amount of fuel, burn either wood or soft coal, and can be used for many Practical Uairy Husbandry. 395 other purposes besides cheese-making. They are especially useful for steam- ing and cooking feed for stock. When arranged for this purpose, the o-eneral construction of the heater is the same. The only difference is that a check- valve (see Fig. 33) is substituted for the lower stop-cock to the tank, and 396 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the pipe furnishing the hot water or steam, instead of extending out hori- zontally, is carried up perpendicularly, and a steam separator is attached, to which the steam pipes are connected. The principle of its operation is this : When the stop-cock in the upper pipe is open, the water in the tank circu- FlGURE 34. lates through the coil, and is heated in the same manner as in the cheese vat heaters ; but when steam is desired this stop-cock is closed, the return of the water to the tank is thus cut off, and it remains in the heater until steam is Figure 35. generated, when the mixed steam and water are driven up into the separator ; the water, beimg separated, runs back into the tank, and the steam passes off through the pipes to the desired points. This will continue as long as the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 397 stop-cock is open. During this operation, the coil is fed with water from the tank, through the lower pipe. "We give also in this connection an illustration of the vat and heater for farm dairies, called the Oneida Farm Vat (see Fig. 34.) enders dinary PAOTOKY MILK CANS. These cans are constructed with a conical bottom (Fig. 35), which r them very durable and strong, and does not add anything to the or weight of the can. A solid tinned or galvanized iron band, with a projecting lip for the support of the can, encloses this bottom, at- tached by soldering. This ren- ders it durable. We also give a cut of the Iron Clad milk can, (Fig. 36), which is stoutly made. MILK CAN" HANDLES. These handles (Figs. 37 and 38) are made especially for com- bining a convenient handle for carrying or lifting a cheese fac- tory carrying can, with another for the purpose of dumping or tipping it when a crane is used. Tliey are made so as to embrace or inclose the band, which is usually placed near the center of the can, thus attaching them to the strongest and stiffest part of the can. The new pattern (Fig. 37) is adapted to either the ordinary hooks, or the straight or squarely bent hooks or tongs used in some localities, which re- quire a hole or socket to fit them. The old pattern (Fig. 38) is only adapted to the ordinary lifting hooks. Another form of can handle is shown at Fig. 39. It consists of a broad, malleable iron plate fitted to the curvature of the side of the can, for riveting thereto ; having a flanged socket and knob, also a hinged handle for lifting by hand ; which handle, when not in use, drops to the side of the can. This arrangement is adapted for hoisting and tipping the can, to empty from the top, to any and every device used for the purpose ; whether hinged bail with hooks to fit the socket, common hook or simple ring, fitting the outside of the barrel, neither of which can slip or Figure 36. 398 Practical Dairy Husbandry. unhook, and either of which will allow a complete revolution of the can. The plate tends to strengthen and protect the can while being hoisted. The projection of the socket and knob being bnt three-quarters of an inch outside of the handle, it is not liable to be broken or to jam surrounding cans while FiGUEE 37. Figure 38. Figure 39. being carried. The handles represented at Figs. 40 and 41 are designed to be used on the Iron Clad can (Fig. 36). FACTORY WEIGHING CAN. The cut (Fig. 42) represents a tin weighing can for receiving the milk as it is brought to the factory. This can stands on the scales, and each patron's Figure 40— Cover Handle. Figure 41— Side Handm;. milk is emptied into it, weighed, and then allowed to run to the vats. The bottom is made to incline to the faucet or gate, which is extra large, generally about three inches in diameter, so that it is emptied very rapidly. A con- ductor head (shown in Fig. 43) is placed in front of the faucet to prevent the milk from spattering and to conduct it to the vats. The tube or pipe on the end can be extended to any required length, though if more than three or four feet long, it should be an open trough. Fig. 44 shows an extra strong, large, weigh-can gate, having guides to steady and regulate the handle. Practical Dairy Husbandrf. 399 CHEESE PRESSES. One of the most convenient j^resses for farm dairies is tlie Oyston's Her- kimer County Press, illustrated in Fig. 45. Description. — Between the upper beams of the stout wooden frame two sectors, E E, are hung by wrought iron journals in iron boxes inserted in the beams. One of these sectors is geared on the inside and the other on the outside. They are operated by a pinion, the shaft of which passes through FiGUBE 42. Figure 43. the front beam, and on which the ratchet wheel, F, is fastened. Next to the ratchet the end of the lever, G, plays loosely, and then the crank is secured with a pin, which also keeps the lever in its place. The pitmen, or toggle levers, I) D, are four in number ; their upper ends are secured on wrought-iron journals, cast solid in the sectors, and their bottom ends are pivoted to the follower, and work in iron boxes. The follower, A, slides up and down between the posts, and is kept perfectly steady. To operate the press the lever, G, is raised and a dog at the back of the lever, which plays on a strong pivot, is hooked on to a pin in the beam and holds the lever up. The dog, H, is then turned back so that its other end shall take into the ratchet below the center ; the sectors, follower, &c., are then run iip with the crank and held up by the dog, H ; the cheese is then put in, the dog, H, turned to the position as now represented; the lever is then raised, which unhooks the lever dog and allows it to take into the rachet. Then press the lever down, or hang a weight and leave it as you please. The follower and sectors are rep- resented about halfway down; the journals on which the strain comes move but one-quarter of a revolution as at each operation of pressing, which con- sumes little power and produces little wear, Avhile the pinion makes over three revolutions, which gives the end of the lever a traverse of over eighty- six feet. FlGTIEB 44. 400 Practical Dairy Husbandry. FACTORY PRESSES. The presses at the factories (Fig. 46) are generally quite similar in con- struction, and, except the iron screw and its fittings, are usually made upon the spot by some carpenter. These presses are not patented, and are so FiGUKE 45. simple in construction that any one handy with tools can do the wood work for less money than their cost of transportation over long distances. The wooden frames should be made of well seasoned timber, and the parts of sufficient size to be strong, so as not to spring or warp. The sills for holding Practical Dairy Husbandry. 401 tlie hoops are about fifteen inches Avide and four inches thick, and the beams ten inches by six inches thick. The posts are of the same tliickness, and of the width of the sill at the bottom, slanting to the width of the beam at the top. The posts should be about four feet ten inches long. The sill and beam are let into the posts say about a half to three-quarters of an inch. The sills stand about tAvp feet from the floor, and the beams are about two feet five inches above the sills. The posts are set about two feet apart, which gives a space of two feet by two feet five inches for the hoop. Iron rods with nut and screw for the ends are used for holding the Avood Avork firmly in place, and six or eight frames or presses may be connected together. Fig. 46 gives their general appearance. CHEESE PRESS SCEBAVS. "While for private dairies lever presses are still used to some ex- tent, the scrcAV jDresscs have been universally adopted by cheese fac- torymen. The screAvs are usually placed in benches of six or eight. These benches, as Ave haA^e re- marked, are made very strong, fiom heavy timber, Avith bolts, to hold them from spreading, betAveen each screw. The ordinary screAV has tAvo holes diilled in its hub, and is turned by means of a round iron bar. Ratchet screAVS are much more convenient, but, as usually made, are very objectionable, on Figuee 46- account of their complication, thereby allowing the collection of whey and dirt, causing them to rust and smell badly ; they are also con- stantly getting out of order. Thj illustrations (Figs. 47 and 48) show an improved Ratchet Cheese Press ScrcAA^, Avhich is said to entirely overcome these objections. The scrcAv is thus constructed : A toothed or ratchet Avheel is firmly attached to the scrcAV, leaving about an inch space betAveen the top of the flange and the loAver side of the wheel. A lever, to which is attached the pawl of the ratchet, is made to fit in this space, thus when attached completing the ratchet. But as this lever can be readily removed from or attached to the scrcAV, by merely pressing back the pawl, one lever can be made to answer for all screws in a fixctory. It Avill thus be seen that this arrangement combines all the advantages of the ordinary ratchet screw, with the simplicity, strength and cleanliness of the common plain screw. The pawl attached to the lever is made Avide enough to turn the ratchet 26 402 Practical Dairy Husbandry. wheel, when placed either side up ; thus it can be readily adjusted to either raise or lower the screw. The screw, when relieved of pressure, can be Figure 47. Fisueb 48. rapidly raised or lowered, by means ol a malleable iron handle, made expressly for this purpose (see Fig. 49). The flange of this screw is made very heavy and strong, and has an extra deep socket, in which the lower end FlGUKB 49. FlSUEE 50. of the screw is carefully fitted, so that the flange cannot tip in the least, but will press the cheese true and even. Both the handle and lever of these Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 403 screws are gulvanized, wliich is quite important, as the salt and acid in the curd and whey will rust them badly. If the common screws are used, the iron bai's for running them should always be galvanized, for the same reasons. Another pattern of these screws (shown at Fig. 50) is simple in construc- tion, consisting of a screw of refined wrought iron, attached to and turning in a heavy cast base, also a heavy cast nut through which the screw works, for fastening into the beam of the j^ress. The screws are turned by means of a wrought iron bar inserted into holes in the collar of the screw. They are usually of two sizes — one and three-fourths inches and one and a-half inches in diameter. The one and three-fourths inch screw is in extreme length twenty inches ; has thirteen inches length of screw thread ; four holes in collar for inserting a seven-eighths inch bar, and a base nine inches in diameter. The one and a-half inch screw is in entire length eighteen inches ; length of screw thread, eleven and a-half inches ; four holes in collar for three-fourths inch bar, and eight inch diameter of base. The grade and pitch of screw are calculated for the most rapid motion compatible with strength, great power and ease of working. iiT^ Figure 51. feazer's ganvj cheese press. This press is constructed horizontally, and presses any given number of cheese, Avith a single ratchet screw set in movable head-blocks^ so as to repeat when run out its length. The cheeses are placed upon their edges in metallic hoops, made in sections, with heads or covers of the same material, not liable to shrink or swell, forming a complete box, the sections sliding together as the pressing is performed, finishing the cheese at one operation. The advantages claimed for it are : 1st. It saves the labor of one man, where a large number of cheese are made. 2d. It takes xip less than one- half the room of the old j^resses. 3d. The hoops are so constructed that the air and whey escape as soon as pressure is applied. This is an advantage not appreciated heretofore. 4th. The hoops also make a perfectly smooth, rounding edge. 5th. The clieese are pressed in bandage at once — no turning in press, nor particle of trimming. This alone saves much labor. 6th It wdll press any number of cheese as perfectly as one. 7th. It presses perfectly 404 Practical Dairy Husbandry. even, and cannot clo otherwise, if the press and hoops are made true. 8th. The pressing is so gradual, on a large number of cheese, that there is no curd forced off with the whey, as is the case with the single cheese press, .9th. The pressing is tmiform ; as one is pressed against the other, therefore Figure 52. all must 1)8 pressed exactly alike. 10th. A weight is attached to the lever to continue pressing, or indicate when manipulation is necessary. 11th. When the screw is reversed sufficiently to relieve one cheese, they will . all come out, saving much labor running screws up and down, as in the ordinary press. 12tb. The hoops are made in sections for bandaging and contracting, dispensing with all followers and bot- tom boards. Figs. 51 and 52 illus- trate these presses. CHEESE PRESS HOOPS. The hoops for pressing cheese were formerly, and are still, to a large extent, made from wood, but the last few seasons galvanized iron hoops (see Fig. 53) have been intro- duced to a great extent, and are bet- FlGUEE 53. . .L mi T ter on many accounts. They do not shrink or swell, absorb no whey, and the cheese slips out more readily. RUBBER PRESS RINGS. A source of considerable trouble and annoyance to cheese-makers is the shrinking and swelling of the cheese followers ; if they fit loosely, the curd Practical Dairy Husbandry. 405 will press up, thereby making it necessary to trim it off, thus causing a waste of cheese. Figs. 54 and 55 illustrate an invention designed to over- come this difficulty. Fig. 54 shows a cheese hoop cut in two perpendicularly. A, represents the cheese hoop ; B, the follower ; C, the cheese ; E and F, rubber washers or rings. One of these rubber rings (Fig. 55) is placed on the inside of the cheese hoop, resting on the press board below the curd or cheese. The other is placed above the cheese, directly under the follower. FlGUKB 54. FlQUKE 55. As soon as the pressure is applied, it causes the rubber rings to expand and fit tight to the hoops, preventing the curd from pressing either up around the follower or out underneath the bottom of the hoop. By using these rubber rings, the followers may fit the hoops very loosely. They are very valuable in using for the second pressing after the bandage has been put on ; the rings then prevent the bandage bursting at the edge, which has always been a great annoyance, as it allows the flies to get in, producing skippers in a place whence they can scarcely ever be gotten out. Figure 56. HOOPS AND WOODEN PEESS KINGS. Hoops and wooden press rings are usually made of staves and hard wood (see Fig. 56) doubled together and banded with riveted or welded bands* Hoops of heavy sheet iron, galvanized, with a welded band at top and bottom, are now generally preferred. The illustration (Fig. 56) is a perpendicular section of a wood hoop and press rings, showing the position of the rings in pressing, also a ring separate. The hoop is shown resting upon the press board, in which are seen the channels for conducting ofl" the whey. A is the 406 Practical Dairy Husbandry. follower, with its edge slightly beveled, corresponding with one side of the upper or triangular ring, b. The lower ring, c, is in its section a right-angled triangle, and is seen in its place at the bottom of the hoop, though by some this ring is not considered necessary. D is the upper ring shown out of the hoop. These rings are made of hard and tough wood by machinery, which FiGUEE 57. Figure 58. smoothly rives them into'a three-cornered shape and forms them into circles, so as to tightly fit the inner surface of the hoop, with ends butted together. The manner of using is: first place the hoop on the press board, insert the lower ring, press it down till it is flat upon the board, put in the curd, insert FiGTmE59. Figure 60. Figure 61. the upper ring just below the top of the hoop, put on the follower, and it is i-eady for the press. On removing the cheese from the hoop the rings slip out with it. After bandaging put in the cheese and the upper ring, forcing it down to the cheese, insert the follower and apply the pressure. By this means nothing but the whey can pass the rings, the corners of the cheese are left perfect, and the edge of the bandage is firmly impressed ; no press cloth is required, though some prefer a small round cloth for top and bottom. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 407 CAST-STEEL DAIRY KNIVES FOR CUTTING UP THE CURD are differently arranged and mounted. They are of two kinds, the perpen- dicular and the horizontal (Figs. 57 and 58). The perpendicular is designed to pass through the vat, cutting up the curd into columns. Then the horizontal, passing through, cuts the columns into cubes. These knives are manufactured of sixteen, eighteen and twenty inch lengths, and from four to thirty blades each — to cut perpendicularly. The blades are now tin plated. From four to fifteen blades, the blades are half an inch apart; the twenty-blade knives are three-eighths of an inch, and the thirty-blade knives quarter of an inch apart. The four to six blades inclusive have handles on top of head, as in illustration Fig. 59. The seven to thirteen blades have handle on side of head as in Fig. 60. The twenty and thirty blades have handles on both side and top of head, as shown on the horizontal cutting knife in the illustration. The thirty-blade perpendicular knife is intended for use where cheese is made PlGUKE 62. FiGUEE 63. FiGTIBB 64 in the " coarse curd process," and is passed through the curd but once, cutting it into slices. The other perpendicular knives are passed through the curd both length and crosswise. The horizontal knives (Fig. 61) are eighteen and twenty inches long ; four, six and eight inches wide ; with blades half an inch apart. This knife is not intended to take the place of the per- pendicular knife, but to be used in connection with it. After cutting the curd length and crosswise, this knife cuts the columns into cubes. For dairy use, four to seven blades, perpendicular, and four inch horizontal ; for cheese factory, eleven and thirteen blades perpendicular, and eight inch horizontal. The rake agitator (Figure 62) is used for the purpose of agitating the curd while cooking, is very convenient and will save much labor. This is made of wood and tinned wire. The illustration (Fig. 63) gives another form of the agitator. Whey strainer and siphon (Figure 64), for the purpose of drawing 408 Practical Dairy Husbandry. off the whey. The lower part of the strainer is made of perforated tin. The syphon lias a faucet attached to one end, with a valve at the other, so con- structed that when filled with whey they will prevent it from escaping. It can then be carried to the vat in which the strainer is jDlaced, the valve end of the syphon is inserted in the strainer, the faucet end hanging over the trough for conducting off the whey. The whey immediately commences to run through the syphon on opening the faucets. CURD-MILLS, DAIRY-DIPPERS, ETC. Curd Mills are now coming into general use in many sections of the coun- try. Figure 65 represents the McAdam Mill ; it is constructed from iron, with the exception of the frame and hopper, which is wood ; it is geared up so as to run rapidly, and has a heavy balance-wheel to make it run easily. They are invaluable where the Cheddar system is adopted, and will be found a valuable article, particularly in hot weather wlien the milk is often not in the very best condition. At such times it has the effect of improving the quality of the curd by finely divid- ing, cooling and exi^osing it to the air ; equalizing its character and insuring more perfect salting. We give an illustration in Figure 66 of Ralph's American Curd Mill. Re- ferring to the illustration it will be seen that the mill is fitted for lying upon the top of the cheese-vat or sink, and may be moved at pleasure or permanently Figure 65. Secured at one place. It consists of a wood frame, upon which is secured a metallic rack with curved I'ibs ; in this rack lie the picking cylinder or cylinders which are of tinned iron ; each cylinder having two rows of teeth set spirally, which teeth by the revolving of the cylinders, gradually enter between the curved ribs of the rack, carry- ing before them the picked curd into the receptacle below. The peculiarity of this machine is in the metallic cylinders, and the action of the teeth through the ribs of the curved rack, by means of which the curd is not only easily and rapidly picked up, but being gradually passed through the ribs, is not mashed, nor the butter separated from it. The cut represents a double cylinder or factory size, the cylinders being geared together. The dairy size has a single cylinder ; they are worked by hand with a crank, also arranged for power, being furnished with a balance- wheel to carry a belt. Dairy dippers (Figure 67) should be made from IXXXX tin, and hold from three to four quarts, the seams should be well filled with solder, and they should be made plain and smooth. Figure 68 is a flat-sided pail made for the purpose of dipping out the curd from the vat ; it should be made from Practical Dairi Husbandry. 409 heavy tin, with bail, and a handle in the back. A curd-scoop (Figure 69) should accompany it, which is made from tin, somewhat in the shape of an ordinary dust-pan, but made heavier and more carefully soldered. The curd sink should be mounted on castors, so as to be readily moved in any direction ; these castors (Figure VO) should be made very heavy and substantial, with a FlSTJBE 66. projecting lip to take the weight off from the screws that fasten it to the legs of the sink. The wheel shank is so secured in the socket, that while it allows the wheel to revolve freely, it cannot slip out of place. The castors are secured to the legs by wood screws ; the bottom of the legs of the sink resting upon projecting lips made to receive them. Four constitute a set. FiGUEE 67. FlGUEE 68. Rubber mops (Figure Vl), a most desirable article for cleaning a wet floor, will save their cost in brooms several times dui'ing a season. No cheese factory will be without then when once tried. Dairy thermometers (Figure 72) should be made with a heavy brass back, and a small loose tin collar to slip over the bulb to protect it ; the handiest size is the ten-inch. The most approved patterns are now j)lated with nickel. 410 Practical Dairy Husbandry. SCALES. Good scales are an important feature in cheese factory fixtures. We give in Figs. 73, 74, 75, 76 and 77 difi'ereut forms of the Howe scales. These FiauKB 69. FiGXIEE 70. PlGUEE 71. o scales are accurate and reliable. By introducing chilled iron balls between the platform, and by making all the bearings self-adjusting ^ they take nearly all the wear from the pivots, upon the sharpness of which the accuracy and durability of all scales very largely depend. Fig. 74 represents a platform scale on wheels. This, or the one shown in Fig. 73, is the kind wanted by every cheese factory for weighing the milk when it is ti:vken in. About six hundred pound scales are the most desirable. Either of the scales shown in Figs. 75 and 76 are very convenient for weighing salt, &c., in cheese making, but the best to purchase in most cases is the Improved Union Scales (Fig. 77), as they not only answer for weighing small things, but have a convenient platform for weighing cheese or any heavy article. The Joi^es Scales are very similar in construction to the above, and are good, reliable scales. We give in Fig. 78 a cut of the Jones Stock Scales, which are found useful in weighing very heavy weights. THE RECTANGULAR CHEESE. Cheese has been made from time to time in a variety of shapes. In England and America the cylindrical form has always been most popular. Other shapes, such as the " pine-apple," the " cannon ball," the " Limberger " or brick shape, and the " French cakes," have been, each and all, of limited demand. Some of these shapes, such as the " pine-apple," have been made and are still made in small quantities in this country, and as a fancy Figure 72. article they sell at comparatively high prices. The " cannon ball " was at one time made in certain districts of New York to supply the xi 210 \ pi 200 i 1 180- f \ I/O' ISO- 150- no- e; i 130- 120- i „.. no- = ;""' 100- -1 U»«.r» i 90- =j ; 80- = ; 70- 1 \ GO - ^% SO- ■tO E ; FBCn 30 - ; ^""' 20 1 \ 10 % ■ 1 '- 1 10 a| 1 ^^^^ 1 '^ ' ' ll^J Practical Dairy Husbandry. 411 Navy. The " Edam " of Holland is round like a ball, and on account of its small size finds ready sale in England, Avliere it is in favor among the lower classes, the farm laborers, and those who desire a low priced cheese, and cannot aiford to indulge in the better sorts. The Limberger is only suited to German tastes. It is rank in taste and smell, and comparatively few English- men or Americans have learned to like it. It is manufactured to some extent in this country to supply our German population, but is not exported. The FlGUEE 73. FiGXJEE 74. FiGUEE 75. French cakes have not been made in America. A good deal has been said at one time and another about changing the cylindrical or common shape of our cheese to a square or oblong form. And the reasons urged for this change are that the present shapes entail a heavy expense in boxing, while they cannot be cut in small pieces to advantage. A wedge of cheese, it is contended, must always leave more waste, when it4s divided up for the table, than the same Aveight in a square form, and as small cubical blocks are more pleasing to the eye than irregular pieces cut from a wedge, this alone is good reason why a square or cubical-shaped cheese should be made. But ac the Figure 76. FiGUEB 77. material for making cylindrical boxes is growing scarce and exj)ensive, a cheese of another form is required to meet this difficulty. Square boxes are not only more economical in cost of material and in the labor of making, but as they can be packed closer, there would be a gain over round boxes in the matter of freight when sending to market. These are the arguments that have been urged by the advocates of this radical change in cheese manu- facture. On the other hand, serious objections have been suggested against 412 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the proposed change. In the first place a reputation has been established in the markets for cheese of a particular shape, and it is a question whether the prejudices of consumers for these shapes could be readily overcome. It was thought, too, by many, that by making cheese in a square form the corners and edges Avould be more liable to break in handling, and finally, that there, would be difficulty in securing the bandage, and thus the matter has rested until quite recently. Tlie first practical experiments in the way of making square-shaped cheeses, we believe, are due to Mr. Holdkidge of Otsego county, N. Y. He has been for several years developing his system of cheese manufacture, but his plans were not fully matured until last year, when his new style of cheese was put upon the markets. We have seen several letters written by dealers who have handled the " Holdridge cheese," in which its shape and quality are highly commended, and from which it appears that sales have been readily made at good figures. As the plan adopted by Mr. Holdkidge is original, and may be somewhat new to the dairy public, I shall briefly allude to some of its leading features. In the first place the curds are pressed in a square box, arranged with fol- lower, &c., on the plan of the common hoop. The cubical block of curd is then removed from the frame and cut with a fine saAV into blocks of the desired size. For these blocks Mr. HoLDEiDGE adopts an ob- FiGUKE 78. long form, the ends being square. A strip of bandage cloth, just wide enough to wrap around these blocks, (a small piece having previously been adjusted on the ends), is wet in water. The dampness causes it to adhere to the cheese. The blocks of curd are then simply laid upon the cloth and rolled over tmtil the sides are covered, when the ends are lapped down, and this completes the process of bandaging. The bandaged blocks are then laid in the hoop in the same order in which they were cut, the courses being separated by thin boards, and when in place form a cubical mass. Then the follower is adjusted and pressure applied in the same Avay as for ordinary cheese. This process fastens the bandage securely, and after being properly pressed the frame is taken off, the blocks separated and put upon the shelves. While curing, these blocks of cheese are turned from day to day, but only a quarter revolution at a time. Mr. Holdkidge claims that the escape of the whey by evaporation is greatly facilitated by the form of the cheese, inasmuch as the whey percolates towards the bottom, and the turning being only a quarter revolution, or at right angles, it constantly tends toward the outside, while in the ordinary form of cheese the turning from one side to the other has a tendency to keep the whey in the center of the cheese. In the block-shaped cheese, therefoi-e, the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 413 whey is so flir dissipated that decomposition is less liable to take place, and further, that the cheese can be preserved without tlie greasing process com- monly employed. He claims also that for the retail trade the block cheese is of great advantage, since the dealer can weigli the whole cheese and cut by measure the exact weight desired. And again, for family use they are superior, since by turning the bandage back from the end a thin slice may be cut off for the table, the bandage replaced and the cheese set on end, thereby excluding the freshly cut surface from the air, preventing drying and the attack of flies. In the manuficture of small cheeses it will be observed the i^lan proi^osed must be a great saving in presses and hoops, while the ease and rapidity of adjusting the bandage is a matter of some consideration. I have examined the HoLDETDGE rectangular appliances for pressing Avith considerable care. The whole is very simple, easily operated, and not liable to get out of order. The plan, if successfully adopted, must save a large amount of labor at cheese factories, since one curb and one j^i'ess is sufficient for a large quantity of curd. Then the cheese can be made of any desired weight without going to the extra expense of procuring hoops and presses and scre'ws to meet the emergency. For making small sized cheeses, say from ten to thirty pounds, it would seem to be admirably adapted. Small sized cheeses are very much needed in the home trade, and are not supplied in sufficient quantity for the reason that manufacturers have not been willing to take the extra expense of labor and appliances for their production. Under the rectangular plan most of the objections to making a small sized cheese are obviated. We see no reason w^hy the rectangular cheese cannot be made of equal quality with other shapes. Indeed, Ave have tested numerous samples made at different seasons of the year, and have found them excellent. The small expense in boxing this style of cheese alone commends it to favorable consideration. But of course the prejudice for round shapes among certain consumers may interfere for a time with the general introduction of rectangular cheese. Still from the success already obtained for this plan, and the favor with which the cheese has been received in the home and foreign markets, there is reason to believe that the oblong shapes are destined to work a revolution in the old styles of cheese. We hear of a number of factories this year, 1871, entering upon their manuf icture, and by the end of the season enough cheeses will have been made to fully test the feeling of different markets in regard to the new shapes. We give a cut (Fig. 79) representing the curb and press, and the manner in which the cheese is placed for pressure. A represents cheese with bandage. B, composite mold. C, square curb or hoop. D and E, mortised slips for connecting the hoops. Mr. Holdridge, the inventor, gives the following statement as regards the comparative cost of making rectangular cheese and round cheese, together with the directions for pressing, ban- 414 Practical Dairy Husbandry. daging and boxing, which will be useful to those proposing to adopt this style of manufacture : Saving in Boxes^ Down Weights and Handling. — ComparatiTe cost of manufacture, boxing, &c., of one hundred pounds of cheese made into ten pound rectangular cheese, or made into fifty jjound round cheese : — Ten Figure 79. rectangular cheese, five by five by ten inches, weigh one hundred pounds. Two round cheese, fifteen inches in diameter and eight inches high, weigh one hundred pounds. Bandage for round cheese, three-quarters wide, say one yard, costs six cents; to box two such cheese, forty-four cents. Total Practical Dairy Husbandry. 415 cost for one hundred pounds, fifty cents. Bandage for ten rectangular cheese, as above, three yards, three-quarters wide, cost eighteen cents ; boxes for one hundred pounds, thirty cents. Total cost per one hundred pounds, forty-eight cents ; a saving of two cents per one hundred pounds. Comparing ten pound rectangular with fifty pound round cheese : — These small cheeses are packed eighteen (one hundred and eighty jDounds) in a case. The same amount of cheese in fifty pound round cheese would require three down weights or more — a loss of two weights, not less than one pound of cheese as compared with the small cheese — worth sixteen cents. A saving of about nine cents per one hundred pounds, which, added to the two cents saved as above, makes not less than eleven cents per one hundred pounds saved thus far in favor of rectangular small cheese. Tliis saving greatly increases as the size of the round cheese compared with the rectangular diminishes. Compare twenty-five povmds rectangular Avith the same size round cheese: Round cheese of this weight are about thirteen inches in diameter and six inches high. Rectangular cheese, same weight, are seven by seven by four- teen inches. The bandage for round cheese, per one hundred pounds, costs seven cents ; four boxes at sixteen cents, sixty-four cents. Total for one hundred pounds, seventy-one cents. Rectangular cheese : — Bandage, twelve cents ; boxes, twenty-five cents. Total per one hundred jDOunds, thirty-peven cents ; saved, thirty -four cents. To this should be added seven down weights saved, (three and a-half pounds of cheese), to case of eight cheeses, per one hundred pounds, twenty-eight cents. Total saved per one hundred pounds, sixty-two cents. In comparing fifty jDound round cheese with rectangular cheese eight by eight by sixteen inches, weighing same, the saving per one hundred pounds is thirty cents. The above figures do not include the saving in screws, hoops and frames, nor in labor required to take Care of them. Saving in IIoops^ Screws, Sc. — To manufacture the milk from five hun- dred cows requires hoops, screws and appurtenances to take care of at least one thousand pounds of curd. To maniifacture this into fifty pound round cheese Avould require twenty hoops, screws, frames, &c., and would cost not less than $15 per set ; total, $300. To manufacture the same curd into rectangu- lar cheese, twenty-five pounds each, would, if pressed into eight cheeses, two hiuidred pounds in a curb, require but five curbs, which, Avith screws and frames, would not cost over $150. A net saving of fifty per cent. To make the same amount of curd into ten pound rectangular cheese would require, if pressed in curbs thirty by thirty inches, two cheese in thickness, three curbs and fixtui'es, and would not cost over $100. Saving in Soxes. — We box eight cheese, thirty-pound size, in one case — two hundred and forty pounds — and the box will cost not over sixty cents, and can be furnished for less, as they can be made of pieces of boards and refuse lumber. We box the ten-pound size, eighteen in a case — one hundred . and eighty pounds — and boxes cost each sixty cents. By comparing these I 416 Practical Dairy Husbandry. figures with the cost of boxes for round cheese, per one hundred pounds tlie saving in expense is readily seen. We can use the same screws and frames as used with hoojDS. The common round hoops cost about |5 each, and pres^ from twenty-five to fifty pounds of curd. Our curbs cost from |15 to |20 each, and press from two hundred to four hundred pounds, or more. Curbs without sections cost twenty per cent, less. The expense of these can be lessened by using one or more locked or hinged curbs, with boxes dove- tailed or screwed together for first pressing the curd. And when several locked curbs are used they do not all require sections. Much less room for presses is required and the drying room can be much smaller for these cheeses than for round ones, as they occupy less space on the table or shelves, and the shelves can be placed one above the other. The rooms can be better ventilated, as the cheese are bandaged all over and will not crack. By usino- our style of press or curb, cheese can be pressed as long as desired, as each day's cheese can be jDut under one press. TJie Press Cloths. — Two press cloths are used Avith each curb. A square one, a little larger than tlie curb, and a long one, of sufllcient length to reach around inside of the curb, and wide enough to protect the sides of the curb. Place the square press cloth upon the press board and put the curb upon it. Put in the long press cloth around the inside of the curb, and let it lap about an inch upon the bottom towards the center of the curb. If this cloth be not wide enough to cover the top of the cheese, a small square cloth should be used. Put in curd enough to make the cake of required thickness. Put in the follower and press the curd till next morning, or till sufficiently formed to cut. Having removed the screw, lift up one side of the curb and" pull the bottom press cloth back half way, then lift up the other side and remove thej cloth. -Take out the pins and loosen and remove the curb and side and top ■ press cloths, and the cake is ready to cut. Cut the cake by measure into desired sizes. To Bandage the Cheese.— Cwt the bandage into strips, one inch wider than the length of the cheese, and of sufficient length to reach around the cheese and lap about an inch. Also cut square pieces one inch larger than the end of the cheese. Place the pieces of bandage in a vessel of water, and put on the bandage wet. Place the end pieces on first, lapping over the ends one-half an inch all around. The side piece is put on as follows : Place one end of the bandage near the middle of the uppermost side of the cheese, spread it smoothly and turn the cheese from the person, and the bandage can be put on very smooth. Smooth over the corners and ends, and replace the cheese into the curb for second pressing. Where quantities of this cheese are made, we use a common table having on the under side a trough of water, and the bandage is cut into long strips of proper width and placed in the water in rolls on spools, and through slots in the table is drawn np as required, and cut off" as each cheese is bandaged. This is a very simple and cheap arrangement, and will greatly assist in preparing and putting on the . I Practical Dairy Husbandry. ' 417 bandage. The bandaged cheese having been piled upon the press board, the curb is locked around it. Between each layer of cheese jjlace an inch board same size as the follower. Nothing but the bandage is placed between the cheeses in the same layer. Apply the screw and press as long as desired. When the cheeses are first put upon the shelves or tables, place them close together for a few days, to prevent drying too fast, and after that keep them about an inch apart — to be governed by the weather and how fast they are desired to dry. The cheese should be rubbed and turned a quarter revolu- tion daily, and kept nice and clean. JBoxes. — We box these cheese as follows : Ten-pound cheese, eighteen cheeses in a case. Twenty to thirty-pound cheese, eight cheeses in a case. The boxes are made of one-half inch stuff for the sides, and inch stuff for the ends and middle partition. The end pieces are set in a little from the ends of the sides, and a small cleat nailed around the outside of the heads, as shown in the engraving, makes them very firm. The middle i^iece is same size and shape as the heads. A cleat is put around the boxes outside at the ends and middle to keep them from being packed too closely together. This cleat should be of one-half inch stuff, and about an inch wide. (This cleat does not show in engraving.) The lumber should all be planed, it looks so much better ; and if the cover is fastened on with screws, it will be an advantage, as shippers and others can inspect the cheese without injury to the box, and where the market is not too far off the empty boxes can be returned. A thin piece of veneer or board, of same size as side of cheese, should be j)ut between each cheese in the box, as a scale board, and the boxes should^ always lie so that the cheese stand on end. It pays well to make a neat looking package. Butter dairymen understand this, and know that the price of their butter is sei'iously affected by the appearance of the jaackage. We know from experience that good, neat looking boxes for our cheeses are a profit- able investment. THE CHEESE RACK AND SETTEE, •were considered indispensable in the curing rooms of the early factories, but the necessity now for their use is not so great. Indeed, with the medium- sized cheese now generally made, many prefer the simple table on which to place the cheese while curing, as it is easier cleaned and affords more room. The cheese rack consists of scantling (four by five inches) with the corners beveled or cut so as to be five-sided ; these ai'e framed the proper distance at the ends and set on legs of the desired hight, forming a skeleton table. Or, instead of legs, arms may be framed into the posts which support the floors of the curing room, and upon these arras the scantling are placed to form the rack. Then round covers of inch hemlock or pine, bound with stout elm rims, three or four inches wide, set upon the racks and hold the cheese. When the cheese is to be turned, a spare cover is placed on top, and the cheese and covers turned over ; the cover now on top is removed, rubbed with a cloth, and is ready to be applied to the next cheese. The rims of the 27 418 Practical Dairy Husbandry. covers protect tbe edges of the cheese in the process of turning • and a part of the cheese swinging down in the open space between the timbers, and the rims resting on the beveled sides, renders the operation not only easy but insures safety to the cheese. A lai-ge cheese can be turned with as much ease on a properly constructed rack as the loosening of the cheese on the table preparatory to being turned. Large cheeses are difficult to handle on a table, and are liable to have their edges broken or in other ways marred in turning. The illustration (Fig. 80) gives an idea of the manner of con- structing the rack. CONVENIENT APPLIANCES. In the construction and fitting up of factories, it is very important to have every department as conveniently arranged as possible. Attention should be given to have every appliance for saving labor and facilitating all the various operations. Good factory hands are comparatively scarce, and com- mand large wages. By having conveniently arranged buildings and handy implements, the labor of one or two persons may be saved, and this is an FiGUKE important item. In a recent visit to Chautauqua County, I found some things adopted at the Sinclairville Factory, by which the operations were very expeditiously conducted. The Sinclairville Factory is one of the largest in the State of New York, receiving the milk of fifteen hundred cows and upward. Where such a large quantity of milk is received at one place, it is evident more than ordinary attention must be given to have the various parts of the factory and its appliances so as to be convenient, for if otherwise there would be great liability of neglect from time to time, which would result in damaging the product THE MAIN BUILDING is one hundred and twenty feet by fifty feet, three stories high, and this structure is wholly employed as a dry house or cheese curing department. The two lines of posts running through the central part of the building, in the several stories, to support the frame, are also made of use in holding the arms on which the tables or shelves rest, one above the other, thereby giving the building capacity for storing a large number of cheeses. Some idea of Practical Dairy Husbandry. 419 its capacity will be liad from the fact that at one time nine thousand cheeses (fifteen-inch size) were stored upon the shelves. THE MANUFACTURING DEPARTMENT is in a wing extending in a line with the main building, one hundred and thirty feet long by thirty-two feet broad, and one story high. From the main building to the end of the wing the floor has one foot fall. The floor also descends from either side toward the center, where there is a narrow ditch for conducting ofi" the whey and slops. The vats are upon one side and the presses upon the other side, opposite. The space from the vats to the side of the building occupied by the presses is eleven feet, which gives ample room for the sink, provided with large casters, to move up and down between the vats and presses as desired, while sufficient room is given on either side of the sink for the hands to work in, stirring the curds, &c., &c. THE SINK is three feet two inches wide by thirteen feet four inches in length. The bottom is made dishing, and is of matched pine, except in the center, where there is a narrow strip of perforated tin, through which the whey escapes to a movable trough, which is a little wider than the tin, and fits up close to the bottom of the sink, so that all the whey dripping from the curds is caught. At the upper end of the manufacturing department, and adjoining the dry-house, a space thirty feet long is devoted to A DRESSING ROOM. There are tables along the side of this department, where the cheese, when taken from the press, are received and dressed preparatory to going forward into the dry-house. At the lower end of the manufactory there is an open shed or covered drive-way, where the teams deliver milk. Upon one side stand the platform scales, three and a-half feet higher than the floor of the drive-way. The usual weighing can and its accompanying tin milk conductor are not used at this factory. Instead, there is a truck running on rails along the heads of vats. This truck has a platform about the same hight from the floor as that upon which the scales rest. When the milk teams come in, the cans are moved directly from the wagon to the scales, and after being weighed go upon the truck, which is then moved along to the head of the vat and dumped. One edge of the platform on the truck is cut down lower than the others, and has a notch to receive the bottom of the can on this side, so as to facilitate dumping, and also to prevent the can from slipping while being dumped. The platform scales being about the same hight as the milk wagons, there is no difficulty in rolling the can upon the scales, and from the scales to the dumping truck. Each patron's can is weighed and marked, so that the weight of milk is rapidly obtained. There is no bother with cranes, no weighing can to be kept clean, no milk con- ductor to look after, while the operation of weighing and delivering the milk 420 Practical Dairy Husbandry. to the vats, Mr. Burnham, the proprietor, says, can be done quite as rapidly , and safely as by the usual method, and with no more labor. On the other ll hand, a very large amount of work in cleaning weighing can and milk con- ductors is obviated during the season, while at the same time there is less liability of sour milk, &c., arising from neglect on the part of factory hands to keep these utensils in j^roper order. The arrangement seemed to be convenient, as it certainly was ingenious, and being so different from the usual plan of delivering milk, may prove suggestive to those persons who are about to build cheese factories. THE CURD FILLER. Another handy device in use at this factory is that for filling the hoops with curd. A tin form (see Fig. 81) just large enough to slip down inside the hoop is used. It is a little longer than the hoop, and is surmounted by a flaring top, and when in place, has the appearance of a common tin pan sitting upon the hoop (see Fig. 82). Figure 81. Figure 82. Now, when the hoop is to be filled with curd, the lower or smaller end of this tin form receives a circular piece of cotton cloth just large enough to cover the bottom and come up over the edges of the tin outside — say about an inch. The cloth having been dampened and spread over the tin, is pushed into the hoop. It covers the bottom of the hoop, and the edges, of course, are held between the hoop and the tin, about an inch high all around the hoop. The curd is now placed in the hoop, and when full the tin form drawn out, which leaves the bottom cloth with edges turned up between the curd and hoop, preventing the escape of the curd during pressure. A circular cap of cloth is put on the top when the follower is adjusted and the cheese goes to press. By this device the use of large pressing-cloths is avoided, while a nice surface is secured to the cheese, making a considerable saving, not only in expense for cloth, but in labor of washing, &c. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 421 THE BANDAGING MACHINE. This is another convenient arrangement by which a cheese can be very expeditiously bandaged. It consists simply of a circular-topped stool (see Figure 83) for placing the cheese upon as it comes from the press. The top of the stool is about the same diameter as that of the cheese to be bandaged. A strip of tin is bent into a circle, so that it may be made to inclose the cheese. The ends are not joined together (see Figure 84), so that it may be contracted or exj)anded. It is provided with handles. Now, when the cheese is to be bandaged, it is placed upon the stool, the circular tin contracted so as to readily receive the bandage, when it is allowed to expand, and is then forced down over the cheese and over the stool, or so far as is necessary to make a lap of bandage for the under side of the cheese. FiGUEE 83. FiGUKE 84. Then the tin is withdrawn, leaving the bandage nicely in place. The work is very rapidly effected, without trouble or tearing the bandage; and a closer and better fit may be made than where the bandage is drawn on by hand, as in the old way. THE MILK TESTER. In testing of milk, from time to time, the common lactometer, or set of glass tubes graduated, is used. But instead of marking the name of the patron back of each tube to designate it, as is usual at many factories, figures (see Figure 85) are used, which refer to corresponding names kept in a private book. Thus the tests may be conducted without arousing suspi- cion or causing unpleasant feeling among the patrons on account of subjecting the milk to a test. This plan seems to be altogether preferable to the use of names directly on the apparatus, since all unpleasant remarks concerning certain specimens of milk by those going through the factory are avoided, as the names corresponding with the numbers are known only to the factory manager, and can be kept secret by him. We give an illustration herewith 422 Practical Dairy Husbandry. of the glass tubes set in a frame, and each with its appropriate number on the board at the back part of the frame. THE " YOUNG AMERICAN " CHEESE. Small cheeses of the " Young America " style have been manufactured at this factory, and sales for such have averaged considerably more than for large cheese. These cheeses are pressed in hoops seven inches in diameter and the cheeses made from six to seven inches high. S^eral are pressed \ together under one screw — in some cases as many as sixteen. They are set together, the followers adjusted, and a thick, wide plank put upon the blocking, so that the whole may be pressed evenly and alike. In boxing | these cheeses for market, twenty-one and a-half inch boxes are used, and seven cheeses put in a box. One cheese stands in the center of the box, and the others are arranged about it, and they thus fill the box, so that 'they may be safely sent to market, without moving about or marring. We were much pleased with several other features at this factory, but which we have no space now to describe. Fi&UKE 85. ON FACTORY BUILDINGS AND FIXTURES. The following from the pen of Dr. L. L. Wight, who has had large expe- rience in the management of factories, will appropriately close this branch of our work : ^' The first thing to be considered in selecting a site for building, after having secured a sufficient number of cows, is a plentiful supj^ly of cold, running water. The quantity should not be less than sufficient to fill a two- inch pipe, for the milk oPf every five hundred cows. The temperature of this water should not rise above sixty degrees in the warmest weather of summer. Instead of erecting the buildings over some low, marshy, swampy ground, where water, slop and whey will settle and stagnate and infect the superin- cumbent air, as is too often the case, by all means select some dry, hard, airy location, a little descending to the rear, and with a continuous descent from Practical Dairy Husbandry. 423 the building, to insure the escape of all decomposing liquids to a safe distance. The size of the main building should be thirty-two feet wide, two stories high, of eight feet each in the clear, and the length will depend upon the amount of milk anticipated. A building seventy-five feet long will accommo- date the milk from five or six hundred cows. Let the piers be made very substantial, extending to a depth beyond the possibility of frost, and not be over about ten feet apart in either direction. The main timbers, being ten by twelve inches square, support thi'ee by ten inch joists, not set in gains but resting on the cross-sills. The joists must be sound and set not over sixteen inches apart, being well bridged. The flooring of the manufactory, made of well-matched, sound yellow pine-plank, inclines three inches from the front, to a substantial box-drain made in the floor, four feet from the rear. The floor also inclines slightly from the rear to said drain. The drain drops from each end of the manufactory to the center, where it enters another box which conveys all slop, whey, etc., to a safe distance from the building. The entire outside is covered with well-seasoned, matched, sound pine-siding. The entire sides and ends of the manufacturing part, inside, are ceiled with pine. The ceiling is well plastered. The curing-rooms have floors laid with good, sound, seasoned spruce flooring. The sides are double-plastered, so as to make two fixed air spaces. The ceilings are also all well plastered. There need be no posts to support the floor. The second floor is supported by iron rods suspended from bridges in the attic. The entire building is well lighted by double-sash windows, which are supplied with good rotary outside blinds. Thorough ventilation of the curing-room is secured by the building being elevated so far above the ground as to admit of an abundance of air ; and the insertion of large registers in each bent, under every counter in the first and second floors, and by good ventilators through the attic floor and roof. By careful attention to these registers, and keeping the blinds closed in hot and sunny days, the temperature can usually be kept at a sufficiently low degree, even in the warmest weather. An ice chamber in the attic, so arranged as to register the cold, moist air into the curing-rooms below, would likely at times be beneficial. The curing-rooms are supplied with counters twenty-four inches high and three feet wide ; each table being made of two seventeen-inch wide pine plank, with a two inch space between them. Matched boards under cheese are objectionable, from the greater difficulty of cleansing and the danger of skippers infesting the cracks. It is better to have the counters two feet distant from each other for the convenience of the laborers, cheese-buyers and visitors. The manufacturing-room will be sepa- rated from the curing-room below by a tight double partition, with a large sliding door in the center, between the two lines of presses. The length of the manufacturing and pressing-room, in a building Of the size above men- tioned, would be thirty-five or forty feet. The boiler-room, and wood or coal-room will be erected at the end and adjoining the manufactory, having easy entrance thereto. A building about thirteen feet square should be *24 Practical Dairy Husbandry. attached to the front of the manufactory, containing a drive-way and a receiving-platform. The platform will be closed toward the drive-way except a shde window to receive tl^ milk through, and be open toward the vats. The center of this building will correspond to the center of the vats so that the receiving-can may stand equi-distant from each outside vat The ground of the drive-way is four and one-half feet below the top of the weigh mg-can. The receivmg-platform is about one foot higher than the top of the milk-vats. This building is supplied with means to hoist the cans of milk either by a crane-derrick, or, what is preferable, a hoisting wheel. Permit no faucets in the transporting cans, as they cause the milk to taint when not cleansed thoroughly, and are liable to be neglected. The wooden vats being about fifteen feet m length, it gives three feet between the receivinc-platform and the end of the vats ; two feet between the vats and the curd-sink ; two feet between the curd-sink and the presses, and two feet between the presses and the rear of the building. The vats are separated two feet from each other, and three feet from the end of the building. The wooden vats almost invanably leak, and I think it would be better to have them lined with sheet- lead. The tin vats should be made of the largest sheets of tin, of the best quahty, and be soldered together very smoothly. The wooden vat should rminTtVth l"" "'"'"^^ ''' one-half length of the vat, and not coming to the edge or upper end within four inches. The wooden vats fThe fit 'Vh"" r' "^'' ''^' ^^'^^"'"^^ '^ ^^^ ^-^' '^ ^^ - the wa; the v!t !bv "T --venient way of raising and lowering the foot of the vat 1. by means of a standard, spring and catch, attached to the floor and the lower end of the vat. The space between the last vat and the curing- "oTnrsaltT""" r T '"" '' P"^^^^' ^"^ ^''' -ffi--* -om fi Ind Live f ' '"T- ' • TT" J""' '"■ ^^"^"^^ ^^P^°-' conductors, pails and knives for washing-smk, hot and cold water barrels, etc. Supply each milk vat with a water pipe of at least three-quarters of an inch bore. The water, after having circulated around and cooled the milk, will be conducted a7J^ "'^. ^"^ ^'^'"^'^ '^' P°^^^ t° ^°^« t^« "^i^k agitator, of which t? 1. !, ^'. '' recommended. If the factory is to receive the milk of ^11 .^'t T\ '' """'''' ^'' ^ '''"™ ^"^^°^ ''^ ''^' ^^«« than two horse- LTnditn' f 1 "^ ""' ^''' '^"" " '^" torse-power. It requires the expendituie of a large quantity of steam to warm the milk, and you want to DC sure of it just when you need it ; and the engine will enable you to pump water into the boiler, to grind your curds, to churn, if you wish, to saw your wood, or perform what other service soever you may desire. If you have a less number of cows than above indicated, a patent heater manufactured by Chakles Millar & Son of Utica, will heat the milk gradually and very perfectly and gives general satisfaction. If you do not grind your curds you will need two curd-sinks, so as to give greater facility for cooling the curds , before putting to press. Your milk conductors will be large, stout, and open 1 at the top to msure easy cleansing. Procure a good curd-mill to be used at ' Practical Dairy Husbandry. 425 least in hot weather. You want one gang knife of thirty blades, with one- fourth inch spaces, and one horizontal curd knife. If you use a steam boiler use the steam dry, afcer the method patented by Mr. Schekmerhoen. Alto- gether the best method of warming the curing-room is by steam from the boiler. This gives a more equable temperature, and a raoister, purer atmos- phere. The next best mode of heating is by a furnace, well supplied with water for evaporation. Wood or coal stoves do not sufficiently equalize the temperature. Having an ice chamber in the attic, you can perform the double operation of cooling and moistening the rooms at any time. Curd- rakes, to keep the curd from packing, are nearly as indispensable as curd- knives. The paj;ent horizontal jjress, pressing a number of cheeses at once, with one screw, will come into general use when the patentee has learned to obviate the difficulty of making an indentation or crease in each cheese, Avhich harms their appearance, and supplies an excellent place for the generation of skippers in fly time. The followers must fit the hoops very nearly, or if not, the use of the rubber ring is necessitated. The use of this will hinder the curd from passing up between the hoop and the follower. In very hot weather, however, the acid in the whey soon decomposes the rubber and necessitates new purchases. No press cloths are needed. The rings and staples in the followers you buy are worthless, and should be replaced by your blacksmith, before attempting to use them. Turning covers are not wanted, even if the patentee will pay you for using them. Fairbanks' scales are the most reliable and give the best satisfaction. In weighing cheese for market, use a suitable sized counter-scale, which you can slip along readily on the counter, as you weigh each cheese, before being boxed. Give good up-weight in this manner, and there need be no trouble of having short weights returned upon you. Fine cap cloths give the smoothest rind. A convenient door will 'be made in each end of the second story, and in the end of the curing-room below, through which the cheeses may pass to the wagons on shipping. The boxes may very readily be slid from the second story to the wagons on properly constructed skids." CHEESE MANUFACTUILE. THE ENGLISH STANDARD AS TO THE TLAVOE OF CHEESE. Milk varies in character from various causes, but chiefly in the butter and milk-sugar, the caseine showing but slight variations. Now the great art sought by the cheese dairymen is in extracting two of the above constituents of the milk — caseine and butter — and combining them with the water in such proportions as to make a palatable article to suit a certain arbitrary taste. I say arbitrary, because taste is educated, and different nations have different standards as to what is palatable. When I was in Switzerland I saw gentlemen, apparently of the highest respectability, eating cheese of a most intensely disagreeable odor. They ate this cheese with a relish, and pronounced it excellent, while, to my taste, it had all the peculiarities of badly tainted food, the very odor of which was nauseating. Some of the Germans also like a strong and rancid cheese. The English taste, both for butter and cheese, has changed materially during the last half century. What is noAV required in cheese is a mild, clean flavor, with a certain mellowness of texture, readily dissolving under the tongue, and leaving a nutty, new milk taste in the mouth. The English demand a cheese of solid texture — that is, free from porosity — because a porous cheese usually indicates an imperfect separation of the whey, or undue fermentation. Such cheese often has a sweetish taste, which is owing to the excess of the sugar of milk in the whey, and they invariably turn with a bad flavor. The market value of cheese does not depend entirely on the amount of butter which it contains. In an address before the American Dairymen's Association a few years ago, I broached and discussed this point. It was new doctrine, which the dairy public, and especially dealers, were not then prepared to admit. The experiments at factories, since that time, have proved the assump- tion, and shown that cheese made from milk partially skimmed was not even suspected by the dealer at home, and was pronounced first quality in the' English market. The fact has also been established by Dr. Voelcker, in the analyses of different samples of cheese ; the common or ordinary Amer- ican, he finds richer in butter than the best English Cheddar, which is the highest grade of cheese known to English taste. It may not be out of place, Practical Dairy Husbandry. 427 in this connection, to give Dr. Yoelcker's language. He says :— " One of the chief tests of the skill of the dairymaid is the j^roduction of a rich tasting and looking, fine flavored and mellow cheese, from milk not particularly rich in cream. That this can be done, is abundantly proved by the practice of good makers. One of the finest Cheddars I ever examined was made by Mr. Joseph HARDme of Marksbury, Somersetshire, and analyzed by me when six months old. Like all good cheese, it of course contained a large amount of butter, though, as I found by experiment, not nearly so large an amount as its appearance, rich taste, and fine, mature condition seemed to imply. Though only six months old, it had a much more mature appearance than a Cheddar cheese which was at least eleven months old when analyzed, and, thanks to Mr. Harding's skill and experience, had a far much fatter and more mellow appearance and richer taste, than a specimen which actually contained two and a-half per cent, more butter." " In the opinion of good judges," he goes on to remark " this Cheddar cheese, notwithstanding the larger amount of butter and smaller amount of water it contained, was worth a penny a pound less than the specimen made by Mr. Harding." MELLOW APPEARANCE. " The peculiar mellow appearance of good cheese, though due to some extent to the butter it contains, depends, in a higher degree, upon a gradual transformation, which caseine or curd undergoes in ripening. Now, if this ripening process is badly conducted, or the original character of the curd is such that it adapts itself but slowly to the transformation, the cheese, Avhen sold, will be comparatively tough, and appear less rich in butter than it really is, while in a well made and properly kept cheese, this series of changes will be rapidly and thoroughly efiected." PROPER RIPENING. " Proper ripening, then, imparts to cheese a rich appearance, and unites with the butter in giving it that most desirable property of melting in the mouth. On examining some cheeses deficient in this melting property, and accordingly pronounced by practical judges defective in butter, I neverthe- less found in them a very high percentage of that substance, clear proof that the mellow and rich taste is not owing entirely, or indeed is chiefly due, to the fatty matter which it contains." I do not introduce this topic for the purpose of advising manufacturers to skim the milk for cheese-making, but rather as a suggestion that no efibrt should be spared in acquiring that skill in manufacturing which is able to bring about desirable results, and to show that, even with the best material, a cheese unskillfully made may be tough, poor and unpalatable. THE PROPORTION OF MOISTURE IN CHEESE. Now, it may not be uninteresting to know what are the component parts of what is considered the highest grade of cheese in the English market, such 428 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ^| as we are attempting to furnish. It at least gives us some general idea of the proportion of water, caseine and butter which has effected the highest results. The analysis of Mr. Hakding's cheese gives the following in the one hundred parts : Water 33.92 Butter 33.15 Caseine 28.12 Milk sugar, luetic acid and extractive matter 00 96 Mineral matter 3.85 Total 100.00 The 28.12 parts of caseine contain 21.50 parts of nitrogen, and of the 3.85 parts mineral matter, 1.15 was common salt. It will be seen, then, that good cheese, properly cured, has about thirty-four jDer cent, of Avater, and less than one per cent, of milk-sugar, lactic acid, &c. From the analyses which I have seen of different samples of the best English and American cheese, when ripe, it appears that the proportion of water should not be above thirty-four per cent. Any considerable increase above this almost invariably indicates bad flavor. There is no doubt, a due proportion of the water in cheese imparts to it a smooth and apparently rich texture, and it is to this point manufacturers should direct their attention. When too much water is taken out of the curd, we have a dry, stiff cheese, the transformation of the caseine or curd being imperfect, and the cheese appears less rich than it really is. Any system of cheese-making, then, by which we may be able to judge the most accurately as to the amount of water to be retained in the curds, will be the most successful, other thino-s being equal. SALTY TASTE. In regard to the saline taste sometimes complained of in old cheese, otherwise rich and good. Dr. Voelckek attributes it to ammoniacal salts, developed during the ripening process. He says :— " During the ripening of the cheese, a portion of the caseine or. curd suffers decomposition, and is partially changed into ammonia ; the latter, however, does not escape, but combines with several fatty acids, formed in the course of time from the butter. Peculiar ammoniacal salts are thus produced, and these, like most other salts of ammonia, have a pungent, saline taste. The longer cheese is kept within reasonable limits, the riper it gets, and as it ripens, the propor- tion of ammoniacal salts, with this pungent, saline taste, increases. It can be readily shown that old cheese contains a good deal of ammonia, in the shape of ammoniacal salts. All that is necessary is to pound a piece with quick lime, when, on the addition of a little water, a strong smell of spirits of hartshorn will be developed. In well kept, sound old cheese, the ammonia is not free, but exists in the form of salts, whose base is ammonia, in combi- nation with butyric, caprinic, caprylic and other acids, generated under Practical Dairy Husbandry. 429 favorable circumstances by the fats of which butter consists. Ripe cheese, even if very old, but sound, instead of containing free ammonia, always exhibits a decidedly acid reaction, Avhen tested with blue litmus paper. Rotten cheese, on the other hand, is generally alkaline in its reaction, and contains free ammonia." KEEPING QUALITIES. I have alluded to some of the characteristics demanded in them, to suit the English taste. There is another requisite, which trade and our own interest imperatively demand : it is the production of cheese that is slow of decay — that will sustain its good qualities a long time ; one that can be kept, either at home upon the factory shelves, or in the hands of purchasers, with- out fear of deterioration or loss. English shippers and dealers have always complained of the early decay of American cheese, and the fear of loss from this source has had great inHuence upon the market. When considerable stocks have been accumulated, the dealer has been over-anxious to get rid of them, and has pushed them, at low pyces, upon the market, on the assumption that the loss from deterioration, by holding, would more than cover any prospective advance in price. Factories, too, have often pushed forward their goods on this account. It is true there has been great imj)rove- ment, during the last few years, in the keeping qualities of our cheese, but there is room for moi-e improvement, and no factory should make a pound of cheese that cannot be kept, without deterioration, at least several months. It would seem to be evident that the exceedingly fine aroma which obtains in the best samples of Stilton, Cheddar and Cheshire cheese, is secured, at least in part, by manufacturing perfectly pure milk, in good condition, at low temperature. THE CHIEF CHAKACTERISTICS OF STILTON are a peculiar delicacy of flavor, a delicious mellowness, and a great aptness to acquii'e a species of artificial decay, without which, to the somewhat vitiated taste of the lovers of Stilton cheese, as now eaten, it is not consid- ered of prime account. To be in good order, according to the present standard, it must be decayed, blue and moist. Considerable quantities of Stilton, however, are sold in London free from mold, and good samples have a peculiarly delicate flavor and delicious mellowness, preserving these quali- ties for one or two yeai's. Now the Stilton is set at a low temperature — about 78° — and after coagulation is perfected it is cut in blocks, and a short time afterwards it is lifted out carefully into a willow basket to drain, and then put into a small hoop and turned frequently, receiving no pressure except from its own weight. I do riot pi'opose to go into details of Stilton manufacture in this place since it is not adapted to our factoiy system : but I introduce the main feature to show in part the philosophy of cheese-making. Here, in this most delicious of all cheeses, in which there is an extra amount of cream, a 430 Practical Dairy Husbandry. very low temperature is employed, with scarcely any manipulation. The manipulations are not hastened, but the cheese is left, so to speak, to do its own work. The Stilton cheeses are thick but small, only weighing from six to eight pounds. Of course we could not make our large cheese in this way, as the whey would not readily separate and pass off. But it is a remarkable fact that these cheeses are capable of retaining a delicate flavor for a longp time. In all the finest English cheeses coming under my observation theB temperature for setting the milk ranged at about 78° to 82 '^, never above 84°. It is undoubtedly a fact that if coagulation takes j^lace when the milk, is too warm it becomes too adhesive, and the oily parts of the milk, being] kept in solution, escape with the whey. THE AMERICAN AND CHEDDAR PROCESSES COMPARED. The American process of manufacturing cheese as now commonly prac- ticed, differs but little from the improved Cheddar process of England. The night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together are taken to make the cheese. One great feature in the Cheddar process is to understand pretty accurately the condition of the milk in regard to its approximate acidity at the time of commencing the operation of manufacturing. They prefer there- fore to have the milk in a condition to use sour whey at the time of adding the rennet. "When a large number of persons are delivering milk as at our factories, it is impossible to judge so well how far the milk has progressed toward sensible acidity, as in a single dairy where the milk is under the eye of the manufacturer from first to last. In the Cheddar practice the milk is set at a temperature of about 79° to 82°, receiving sour whey with the rennet according to the condition of the milk. A quantity of rennet is added sufiicient to coagulate the mass in from forty to sixty minutes. When firm enough to break, the curd is cut across in checks. After it has stood from fifteen to twenty minutes for the whey to form, and the curd to acquire a firm consistency, the Cheddar dairymen com- mence breaking with a shovel breaker, which is similar in construction to our factory agitator. The curd is handled very carefully until the whole is minutely broken, and they insist that this part of the process shall be done without any additional heat. After breaking, heat is applied, and the tem- perature gradually raised to 98* or 100*, according to circumstances of weather, etc., the mass meanwhile being carefully stirred. It is then left at rest and only occasionally stirred, until a scarcely perceptible change toward acidity is indicated in the whey ; the whey is then immediately drawn and the curd heaped up in the vat to drain and develop the required acidity gradually. It remains in this condition for half an hour or more, the whey meanwhile flowing slowly from the heap, when it is taken out and' placed in the sink or cooler. It is then split by the hand into thin flakes and spread out to cool. The curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell, and is slightly sour to the taste. Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 431 It is left here to cool for fifteen minutes, when it is turned over and left for the same length of time, or until it has the j^eculiar mellow or liakey feel desired. It is then gathered up and put to press for ten minutes, when it is taken out, ground in the curd-mill and salted at the rate of two pounds of salt to one hundred and twelve pounds of curd. It then goes to press and is kept under pressure two or three days. The curd when it goes to press has a temperature of 60 ° to 65 ° , and when in the sink it is preferred not to go below this point. A proper temperature is retained in the curd during the various parts of the process, during cool weather by throwing over it a thick cloth. Much of our factory cheese has been injured by being put to press at too high a temperature. The thermometer should always be used to determine the condition of the curd when put to press ; and there is no doubt but that the Cheddar dairymen have hit upon the proper temperature. Mr. Harding, the great exponent of this system in England, told me he' had made a great many experiments in this direction, and that a higher tem- perature than 75° when put to press was almost always attended with loss of flavor, undue fermentation, and, as a consequence, greater or less porosity. He claimed that the curd could not be properly broken at 90 ® or above, and that a better separation of the whey and condition of the curd was effected by breaking at 75° to 80°. What we are to learn by the Cheddar process, is not so much following out blindly all details, but seizing upon a few leading principles of the process and adapting them to our use. These princijDles may be briefly summed up as follows: 1st. Studying the condition of the milk. 2d. Setting at a tem- perature from 78° to 82°. 3d. Drawing the wey early. 4th. Exposing the curd longer to the atmosphere and allowing it to perfect its acidity after the whey is drawn. 5th. Putting in press before salting at a temperature of 60° to 70°. 6th. Grinding in a cui'd-mill and then salting. These last two items are important, because you cannot regulate the salt accurately by guess, and can only get the right proportion by uniformity in the condition of the curd. The application of salt, too, at a higher temperature than 75° is claimed to be prejudicial. I am firmly of the opinion, not only from my observations abroad, but from my own experiments, that the exposure of the curd in small particles to the air is beneficial, and helps to secure a good flavor and mellowness of texture. When curds are exposed to the atmosphere the external parts become rapidly oxydized, which is seen by their heightened color. FLOATING CURDS. One of the troubles which cheese-makers have to contend with is a float- ing curd. It means tainted milk, putrefaction, fermentation, a most disagree- able customer, and one which no manufacturer cares to meet. There are various ways of treating floating curds, but the main points to be observed are, drawing the whey early, developing an acid, exposure of the curd to the 432 Practical Dairy Husbandry. atmosphere a long time, and grinding in a curd-mill. One experienced cheese-maker writes me as follows : " One morning in July last I noticed a peculiar odor in the milk which; was delivered at the factory. I pi'onounced it tainted. The weather was' warm and the milk from some of the dairies was quite near enough sour, beino- so far advanced as to require rather rapid handling, faster than would be profitable with milk in the proper condition. I exposed it to the air by stirring it and dipping it, until ready to add the coloring and rennet, which was done at a heat of 82°. "The curd did not seem to act right while cooking; it would not come down so as to present to the maker that feeling and appearance which indicate a good cheese. The curd came to the surface of the whey while it was cooking. The odor was so disagreeable that one of our hands could not bear to work over it. One individual who was present insisted that the curd was sour and the whey sweet, I could not see it so. I held it in the whey as long as I thought advisable, which I assure you was not any longer than was necessary to cook it fairly ; for I did not think tlie whey was improving it any. The heat must have been nearly to 100°, when I ran it into the curd sink, for I had been keeping up the heat hoping to cook it sufficiently. We stirred it a long while in the sink, opening the windows and doors of the work-room, in order to give it all the air possible. I salted it in the j^roportion of three pounds of salt to one thousand pounds of milk, and put it to press. After press- ing for perhaps an hour, turned and bandaged them, then pressed again, until the next morning, Avhen they were placed upon the shelves in the drying-room. " I saw by the next da^ that they were inclined to give me trouble. They commenced rising en masse, like a loaf of bread. They did not leak whey, but there seemed to be a sort of internal working, and Avhen pressed upon with the hand would emit a hissing sort of noise. I determined to experi- ment. I cut one into slices and ground it up in the curd-mill. The odor that had been present in the vat had not all left. I warmed a pailful of whey of the day before to 100° and poured it upon the curd. I kept the whey upon the curd but a short time, just long enough to warm it, say five minutes. I then added as much salt as I thought the whey had taken out, then pressed, turned and bandaged as before. When placed upon the shelf the next day it felt firm and had every appearance of lying quiet. I treated the other three in the same manner and with a similar result. We kept those cheeses until about forty days' old. They never raised in the least again. I called the attention of several buyers and professed judges of cheese to them, and they, without an exception, pronounced them ' all right.' They were firm, never showing a pore when tried ; still, they were not over hard. The odor had so much left them that our buyers were imable to detect it. Perhaps upon other occasions the same process may not prove as satisfactory as upon this. Be that as it may, I feel confident that I saved four cheeses, which promised to be a total loss." I Practical Dairy Husbandry. 433 He adds, " That when the cheeses were cut open for grinding, they were very porous, presenting the appearance of a loaf of bread, which if possible, had been over-risen." MR. irons' process. Mr. Irons, a young Englishman, whom Mr. Harding of England sent to me in the spring of 1868, and who has been managing some factories at the West since that time, says he has tried various modes of treating floating curds, and finds by the following process that he is able to make from such curds a cheese of good texture and taste. When the appearance of the whey shows numerous air bubbles floating in, or forming by the slightest agitation of the finger, and also a kind of greasy feeling of the curd, all of which ai-e indications of an unusual fermen- tation, proceed with the process as at other times, only working a little slower. The temperature should not be raised above 100°. If you are in the habit of making coarse curds, then on this occasion they should be worked a little finer with the agitator. When the mass has been raised to the desired temperature the stirring should be continued for about half an hour. Then leave it to rest for a short time, or with only an occasional stirring. When you see the curds beginning to float upon the whey let them all come up, and then immediately draw the whey. The whey having been removed pack the curd in large heajis at the bottom of the vat, with a space down the middle for the whey to drain off, and which should be removed as fast as it gathers. When the curd has lain in this shaiDC for about fifteen minutes, or until strong enough to bear turning, the heaps should be turned bottom side up, and, if possible, without breaking the curd. Now, let it lie, till the acid is properly developed, which will be indicated by the odor when opening one of the heaps in the center, and it will have a kind of flaky appearance, or as some have it, a kind of grain. Then break the heaps into tliree or four pieces, and spread over the bottom of the vat to cool gradually. When the pieces have laid thus for about fifteen or twenty minutes take them out of the vat, put them in the sink and break them into small pieces, and stir so as to cool. When the temperature has been reduced to about 70° to 75°, grind in a curd-mill and salt at the rate of two and a-half pounds salt to one thousand (1,000) pounds of milk. It would be better to put the mass to press for about ten minutes before grinding, but when there is a large mass of curd, and time is wanting, the course above may be adopted. Mr. Ikons says he has under this treatment of floating curds, made them into good cheese, so good, indeed, that experienced cheese-dealers have not objected to their flavor, or even suspected that there had been any trouble with the curds more than ordinarily. The cheese, he adds, is of very solid texture, and no difficulty is had in curing, except the liability to check a little if care is not taken. Mr. Moon, manager of the North Fairfield Factory, gives the following 28 434 Practical Dairy Husbandry. as his method of treating tainted milk and floating curds : — First, thorough Btirrino- and cooling of the milk at night. In the moi-ning do not begin to heat the milk until ready to heat rapidly, and then heat as quickly as possible, stirring the milk the while. Add an extra amount of rennet that the coagu- lation may be quite firm, cut and manipulate with unusual caution ; keep the whey drawn off as close as possible ; heat gradually but continually until the temperature of about 98° is attained, then, when sufficiently cooked, dip to the sink and wait for the developemcnt of the lactic acid, in more than the usual quantity ; salt and allow to stand exposed to the air from one to three hours, according as the milk was bad or very bad. " Frequently," he says, " the acid will be developed enough when dipped to the sink ; in that case salt as soon as drained ; stir the curd before and after salting, in order that it may not pack in the sink. Having been exposed to the air for the proper length of time, jDut to j^ress ; in the morning remove the hoop, and perforate the cheese in several places with a small wdre, in order to allow any gas to escape that may have been generated in the cheese during the night. Put to press again, and if possible, allow to press twenty-four hours longer, remove to the dry-house and treat like other cheese." Mr. Alexandee McAdam, of the Smith Creek Factory, N. Y., who has been very successful as a manufacturer of "fancy cheese," and whose cheese is well-known in the markets on account of its superior quality, writes me in a recent letter as follows : CAUSE OP FLOATING CURDS. "The immediate cause of floating curds is the presence in each particle or cube of an extraordinary number of the spores of a species of fungus, which generate a gas in the middle of each cube of curd at the time when the curd is in the whey at a temperature of from 80° to 96°, Avhen each cube of curd is expanded by this gas so much as to become lighter than its bulk of whey — there occurs a floating curd. " The reason why those spores are in so great abundance at times as to cause floating curds are two, viz. : First, diseased or fevered state of the cow before the milk is drawn from her. Second, improper handling of the milk after being drawn from the cow. In regard to the first reason, there are a great many cows slightly diseased or fevered, a few of the causes of which, are cows drinking stagnant, putrid or filthy water ; the eating of vegetation growing on ground saturated with such water ; cows inhaling the odor arising from rapidly decomposing matter ; cows in heat, or having been driven rapidly from the pasture ; or any state of the cow which causes the milk to be at a higher temperature than blood heat (98°) when drawn from her, which in a great many instances is the case, and it has been known to be as high as 105° when milked. Such milk, when it has been coagulated and heated, is almost certain to produce floating curds. " In the second place, when the milk has been improperly handled after Practical Dairy Husbandry. 435 being drawn from the cow. This is the case when any filth, cow manure, or other impurity drops into the milk during milking, or in its transit from the farm to the cheese factory, and which can never afterwards be wholly removed from it bypassing it even through the finest strainer; or when the milk has come into contact with any utensils or strainers which have not been thoroughly cleansed ; or when the milk has not been thoroughly ventilated before being shut up in almost air-tight vessels. These are some of the most frequent causes of floating curds. PREVENTION OF FLOATING CUEDS. " To px-event floating curds, the milk intended to be manufactured into cheese ought to be milked from cows that have access at all times to pure running water, and have no access at all to stagnant, filthy water, as cows will often prefer such filthy water to clean water (for reasons unknown). Every one of the cows of a dairy ought to be in perfect health, as one dis- eased cow's milk Avill taint the milk from the whole dairy. Dairy cows ought not to have access to weeds of any description, and ought to have plenty of shade trees in their pasture in warm weather, and when driven to and from their pastures they ought not to be urged faster than a slow walk, and before being milked they ought to be allowed to stand one hour in cool, airy stables at a distance from manure heaps or any decomposing matter. " After standing an hour the cows ought to be milked with the most scru- pulous cleanliness, and the milk strained. It must tlien be immediately venti- lated by exposure to the atmosphere to allow the animal odor to escape, and cooled. But cooling without ventilation is almost useless, or as some assert, worse than useless. The milk being cooled and ventilated, it can then be moved to the factory, and will arrive there in good condition. All the uten- sils with which the milk comes in contact ought to be thoroughly cleaned with warm water, soap and a brush, and afterwards scalded with boiling water or steam. All these particulars being attended to there will be no danger of floating curds. THE EEMEDY FOR FLOATING CURDS. "When the milk which has to be manufactured into cheese emits the offensive odors which usually come from tainted milk, it is reasonably certain the curd after coagulation will either float or require the same treatment as if it did float. In such a case enough of rennet must be added so as to cause coagulation in thirty minutes or less. Then, after the cm-d is sufficiently cut, the mass of curd and whey must be heated quickly to a temperature of 96°, and so allowed to remain until acid is slightly perceptible to the smell or taste, the whey must then be separated from the curd, and the curd allowed to take on considerable more acid. The exact pitch to which the acid should be raised at this time can only be learned by experience ; when this has been attained the curd should be then ground and salted according to the Cheddar process, which is becoming too common to need explanation. After the curd 436 Practical Dairy Husbandry. is salted it should be thoroughly ventilated by repeated stirring and turning over before being j^ut to press. The amount of salt to be used should be the same as when the curd is perfect. The reason that more rennet is required for floating curd is because such curd has to be made sooner than usual, and would take longer to cure if only the same amount of rennet was used. And the reason it is heated quickly is to induce the acid to develop sooner. " A strictly fine-flavored or good-keeping cheese can not be made from floatino- curds, but still when properly handled a very fair, merchantable article can be obtained, the only fault being insipidity and lack of the fine nutty aroma so highly prized by the dealers in and consumers of all kinds of high-priced cheese. The reason that this aroma is lost in floating curds is because so much acid has to be introduced into the curd to kill the taint or bad smell. Kow, this acid also destroys the finest of the aroma, which is the most volatile and easily destroyed in either butter or cheese." TKEATMENT OF rLOATING CURDS. In the treatment of floating curds, a mill for grinding the curds renders very important aid. By grinding, the particles of curd are more minutely broken than it is easy to do by hand, and the breaking liberates not only the gases, but, by a free exposure of the particles to the air, the ofiensive odor passes off, and fermentation is checked. In some cases, even after the cheeses have been removed from the press to the curing room, and then begun to huff and behave badly, by cutting them up and passing through a curd mill, warming with whey at a temperature of 98°, and then draining, salting and pressing, no further trouble has been given, the cheese turning out of fair quality. As more or less trouble is had every year, from tainted milk and floating curds, suggestions as to their management will be of important aid to the cheese manufacturer. MANUFACTURING FROM SMALL QUANTITIES OF MILK. Where only one vat is used, I should always prefer the portable vat, with heater attached. It is quite as convenient, and much less expensive, not only in the original outlay, but in the cost of running, than the steam boiler and vat separated, like those in use in many of the New York factories. In a small factory, where there is no probability of running more than two vats, and where part of the time only one is used, I should still prefer the " porta- ble " or " self-heater," as less expensive, while, as to the management of heat, some of these self-heating vats are as perfect as anything yet brought out. So far as the manufacture of cheese is concerned there is nothing better than to heat with hot water, if the arrangements are such as to be convenient, and the heat under control. The advantages of a steam boiler are, that the boiler is in a separate room by itself, and all litter, dirt, smoke, &c., are con- fined to that apartment, and do not get " mixed up " in the milk room, while the heat is applied simply by turning a faucet in the conducting pipe. Then, again, the heat can be turned off in a moment. On these accounts many old Practical Dairy Husbandry, 437 factorymen prefer steam boilers to the " self-heaters." The Ralph, the Millar and the Burkell heaters are good, so far as their arrangements for heating and manufacturing are concerned. They take but very little fuel. SOUR WHEY. The use of sour whey in cheese-making must be regulated according to the condition of the milk. If the milk has made progress toward acidity, so that it Avill be properly developed at the close of the j^rocess of cheese- making, the sour whey is not needed. But in cool weather, when the milk has been brought down to a low temperature, an acid condition of the curds is not easily developed, at least during the ordinary time for conducting the process of cheese-making. Sour Avhey, under such circumstances, is often used with great advantage. In the spring of the year, when the cows are " between hay and grass," it is sometimes quite difficult for the cheese-maker to turn off a nice quality of cheese. The curds are often run up too sweet, and the consequence is a soft, spongy product, containing a superabundance of whey which has not been properly separated, and could not be expelled while the cheese was in press. This could have been remedied by a proper application of sour ivhey. At cheese factories there is not usually that necessity for using sour whey as at farm dairies, because the milk, from cartage and other causes, has gen- erally progressed further toward acidity, when cheese-making commences, than it would had the milk been kept and made up at the farm dairy. But, though the necessity for using sour whey may not be so great at the factory as at the farm, there are times when it can be employed in factory manufac- ture to very great advantage. At the farm dairy, M^hen the night's milk has been cooled down to 45°, we should say that the sour whey could be used ; for, if all utensils have been kept scrupulously clean, the milk will be very sweet, and will not readily develop the desired change in proper time, or during the time usually employed in the process of manufacture into cheese, unless so treated. Sour whey cannot be used at random, but in the hands of skillful cheese-makers it produces the very best results. cooling the morning's mess or milk at farm dairies. As to the question of removing the animal heat from the morning's milk for farm dairies, when the night's milk has been cooled, as described above, it is not usually considered important to do so. If the morning's milk is to be carted to the factory, there is no question but it should be thoroughly cooled before putting in the cans, or as soon as may be after being drawn from the cow. And I have no doubt, for private dairies, the milk for cheese- making, both morning and evening mess, is improved by being divested of animal heat. In the private dairy, however, it must be observed, the quantity of milk to be handled is comparatively small. The morning's milk 438 Practical Dairy Husbandry. is added by degrees, or only as fast as drawn from the cow, and is at least partly cooled by coming in contact with the night's milk. And, again, the vat being open so as to allow free exposure to the air, while the process of cheese-making is commenced at once, all would seem to indicate that a special cooling of the morning's milk might, perhaps, be dispensed with. If, however, convenient apparatus be had for cooling the morning's milk as soon as drawn from the cow, so that it could be readily done, without loss of time or causing much trouble, I should do so, since I am of the opinion a more delicately flavored cheese would result from cooling and aerating both the night's and morning's mess of milk. But without apparatus or conven- iences, it would not, perhaps, be advisable to spend much time and trouble in attempting to cool the morning's milk for farm dairies. COLOPaJVG CHEESE. An attempt has been made, from time to time, to induce factories to abandon the use of coloring matter in cheese. The fact that annatto (the only coloring matter that should ever be used for this purpose) adds nothing to the flavor or nutrition of cheese, would seem to favor the discontinuance of a practice which is troublesome, attended with expense, and sometimes injurious on account of the adulterations of annatto with red lead and other poisonous compounds. Pure annatto is a harmless vegetable substance, pre- pared from the seeds of a tree {Bixa orelkma), and when used in the ordi- nary way for coloring cheese is in no way injurious. Its employment for this purpose comes down to us from the mother country. I do not know when or by whom the practice was first inaugurated, but it is of ancient date, and its object nmst have been to deceive consumers, by giving them the idea that the cheese was made from a very rich quality of milk. And that impression now generally prevails among the uninitiated. So much has the imagination to do in controlling human action, that I have seen poor, skim-milk cheese highly colored, preferred and purchased instead of a rich, nice-flavored, pale cheese, -both standing on the counter, and offered at the same price. Color, therefore, has an important influence with some people, and It is useless for the dairyman to " run his head" against this prejudice, unless he chooses to have his pockets depleted by lower sales. It is true, in some of the English markets, like Manchester, for instance, pale cheese is m favor, and finds a better price than the colored article ; but the London trade insists upon color, and as it is willing to pay for it, Amer- ican dairymen must for the present submit. Some people think that, by abandomng the use of annatto, we can correct the English prejudice for colored cheese, and thereby benefit all parties. It would be an absurd and tutiJe effort on our part, and would simply give the English dairymen addi- tional advantage m their own markets ; for you cannot force people to pur- chase what they do not want, however excellent your argument may be against their prejudices. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 439 method of pbepaeixg basket annatto for use. Some of the methods employed by old and experienced dairymen for preparing annatto for coloring cheese are as follows : First Recipe. — Dissolve six pounds concentrated potash and one pound saltpeter in five gallons of warm water ; then add thirty gallons cold water, put in as much choice annatto as the liquid will dissolve, heat gently to a boil ; put into a cask, and store in a cool place. Second Recipe. — Dissolve four pounds potash in one-half barrel of water ; put in as much pure annatto as the liquid will cut. The mixture need not be boiled. Third Recipe. — Take four pounds of best annatto, two pounds concen- trated potash, five ounces saltpeter, one and a-half pounds sal-soda, and five gallons boiling water. Put the ingredients into a tub, and pour on the boiling water. The annatto should be inclosed in a cloth, and, as it dissolves, squeeze it through the cloth into the liquid. About two ounces of this mixture is sufiicient for one hundred pounds of curd in summer. EECIPE FOE PEEPARING ANIfATTO USED AT BROCKETt's BRIDGE FACTORY. To eight pounds crude annatto, add three pounds Babbitt's concentrated potash ; place in a cask, pour on boiling water, and stir frequently until all is dissolved. Water is then added to make it sufficiently diluted, so that a pint of the liquid will color four thousand pounds of milk. In coloring cheese, the best way is to fix upon the desired shade by trial (marking the quantity of liquid used), and after that is known the same proportion will give color that is uniform. annattoine. Preparations of liquid annatto have been made and sold from time to time, some of which, like the Nichols & English preparation, have acquired a hio-h reputation. The foreign liquid annattoes, however, are expensive, and their high cost has operated very much against their use among the factories. Recently a new preparation of annatto has been brought out by G. De Cor- dova, under the name of annattoine, or dry extract of annatto. The coloring material, which lies wholly on the surface of the seeds, is separated and pre- pared by Cordova by an improvement on the La Blond and Vauquelin theories. The latter asserts that boiling injures the color, and as this has been clearly proven, Cordova reduces the precipitation to powder instead of boiling to a paste. In the spring of 1870 I made tests with the annattoine in coloring both butter and cheese, and found that it gave a clear and beauti- ful shade, equal to any preparation that I had seen, but on dissolving or cutting the annattoine in the usual manner I found the liquor on standing was inclined to form a coagulum. Soon after this time Mr. D. H. Burrell of Little Falls entered upon a series of experiments for the purpose of overcoming this diffi- culty. In this he has been entirely successful, and we now have a perfect color- 440 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ing material, free from any injurious adulterations, and a preparation which has given satisfaction to both factories and shippers. Indeed, some of the latter have expressed the opinion that cheese colored with this preparation retains flavor better and for longer periods than cheese colored with the common basket annatto. The annattoine is largely coming into use among the facto- ries, and is superseding all other preparations. Prof. Caldwell, who has made an analysis of the annattoine, certifies as to its purity or freedom from deleterious adulterations, and we are therefore enabled to obtain a reliable coloring material at moderate cost. Mr. Buerell's recipe for cutting the annattoine is as follows : — Put two pounds of annattoine in four gallons of clear, cold water, and let it stand in this state one day, stirring thoroughly, meantime, so as to perfectly dissolve the annattoine. Then put two pounds strongest potash, and one pound sal-soda (carbonate of soda) in three gallons of cold water. When this is perfectly dissolved and settled, pour off the clear liquor, and mix the two preparations together. Let this compound stand two or three days, until the annattoine is cut or dissolved perfectly by the potash, stirring occasionally meantime. Use about a teacupful for a thousand pounds of milk. Do not mix with the rennet, but put it in a little milk and then mix in the mass of milk in the vats by stirring it in thoroughly, just before the rennet is used. If in a day or two after the preparation is made the annattoine does not seem to be perfectly cut, so that specks can be seen, it is certain that the potash was not strong enough. Adding more of a stronger solution of the potash will remedy the trouble. When annattoine is used for coloring butter a portion of the prepared liquor is added to the cream at the commencement of churning. It gives a very rich color, and may be used in winter-made butter, often with advantage. CUTTING THE CUEDS. The steel curd-knife now in general use was invented some dozen years ago or thereabouts, by a Herkimer county dairyman. The old-fashioned curd- knife was of wood, a single blade, and a rude aifair. The curds were cut into large blocks, and all the subsequent breaking was done with the hands. This necessitated a good deal of labor, and unless the curds were very care- fully handled, there was a considerable loss of cheese. The first improvement in this class of implements originated also in Herkimer, and consisted of a triangular iron frame, strung with brass wire. It was made of diflferent sizes to correspond with the cheese-tub, half its diameter in length, so that going round with the breaker in the operation, no section of the curds would be broken twice. This was a great improvement over the wooden knife and hand breaking ; but after a while it was found objectionable, as the tender curds were torn and mashed by the frame of the breaker, and by the points where the wires crossed each other in forming the checks. The next improvement was a breaker of tin, formed into checks, so as to Practical Dairy Husbandry. . 441 cut the curd into long square strips as the instrument was pushed down to the bottom of the vat. I made some experiments with the tin and wire breakers at an early day, and found there was a saving in product by using the tin. When the gang of steel knives was invented for cutting the curds into perpendicular columns, further experiments were made, and a decided advantage in product was found to result from the use of sharp, cuttino- blades over the tin cutter, which did not divide the curd as smoothly as the polished steel blades. These experiments, extended over a considerable period and conducted with care, convinced me that the first breakino- of the tender curds should be done with sharp cutting blades ; since not one cheese- maker in a hundred will use sufficient care in breaking Avith the hands to avoid the loss that can be saved by the use of the steel knives, to say nothing of the labor and time gained by the knives over hand breaking. If it be admitted that these shai'p, polished steel blades are better for breakino- the curds in their tender state than the hands, or indeed than any device that tears the mass into particles, that bruises them or presses out the oily portion, then the whole of the breaking should be done with knives. The use of horizontal knives is only of recent introduction among the factories of New York. The perpendicular blades referred to above left the curds in cubical columns, which were to be in some way broken up, and it was done either by the hands, by an agitator, or by other imperfect means. Some of the best English cheese-makers use what is called the shovel-breaker for working or breaking the curds after the first cutting. It is of heavy wire, something in general form like a shovel, and attached to a long handle. They claim that in using this the curd splits apart in grains naturally, and hence the shovel breaker, skillfully used, is the best implement for the pur- pose that has yet been invented. As, until quite recently, they knew nothing of the operations of the American knives, and as their product from a given quantity of milk is less than that turned ofi" by skillful American manufac- turers, it is evident they are not competent, at present, to pass upon the merits of this improved American implement. In the best English methods of cheese-making, as well as in the best American processes, it is deemed important that the breaking should be done when the curds are young and before additional heat is applied. All cheese- makers agree that any rough handling of curds at this early stage must be attended with loss. But if we can have an implement or implements that will pass through the curds perpendicularly and horizontally, separating the mass into parts of the desired size, and doing the work without any undue agitation or bruising of the mass, a great desideratum, it would seem, is reached. The perpendicular and horizontal curd-knives when used in con- nection with each other do this most effectually. The horizontal knives cut the long, perpendicular blocks of curd into small pieces of uniform size, leaving the mass completely broken up. I experimented with the horizontal knives long before they were brought 442 Practical Dairy Husbandry. out or used in tlie dairies of New York. The knives were made expressly for my experiments by Mr. Otsten of Little Falls, who had proposed at the time to take out a patent upon them. He did not do so, and the principle suggested itself to others, and is now adopted at factories. In a recent conversation with Mr. Davis, who owns and operates a fac- tory in Herkimer, IST. Y., he stated that he found from experiments that a considerable gain Avas effected in the quantity of cheese by the use of the horizontal knives, and that by their use also the quality of his cheese was greatly improved. Mr. Davis is a manufacturer of experience, and his cheese has a high reputation for excellence, bringing a high price in the markets. Others make similar statements. From what has been said it will be seen that in factories of any consider- able size, the horizontal knives, in connection with the others, save during the season a large amount of labor, while the work is better performed than by operating on the old plan, as every portion of the mass is divided in i^ieces of uniform size. The object of cutting or breaking the curds is to favor the expulsion of whey ; hence, when the mass is broken up into pieces all of the same size, the progress and condition of the curds from time to time are more uniform in all their parts ; and this is an important point Avhich many cheese- makers overlook in their operations. The principle to be observed is to treat every portion of the curd alike, so far as possible, in all its manipula- tions, and then Ave get a product upon Avhich fermentation during the curing process Avill go on evenly, and good flavor is more readily secured, than Avhen the particles of the curd are unlike, or not in the same condition. USE OF HEAT IST CHEESE MAKING. The term " cooking the curd " in cheese making is a misnomer. It con- A-eys to the mind a Avrong impression and leads many astray. To make cheese properly, neither the milk nor the curds should be " cooked." The more you approximate to the cooking process the more you injure the cheese. Animal bodies are not cooked at a temperature of blood heat. As a rule in cheese making, no part of the process requires a temperature above blood heat. One hundred degrees is the maximum temperature that can be employed Avith safety. This is tAvo degrees above blood heat, and is admis- sible only Avhen heat is liable to pass off rapidly, and for the purpose of holding the mass at 98°. Heat is constantly passing off from the whey and curds, and the loss is more rapid Avhen the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere is low. It is more rapid AA^hen a small quantity of milk is used than Avhen a large quantity is collected together, hence we sometimes employ a temperature one or tAvo degrees above blood heat in the process of solidifying the curds, in order to meet this loss of heat. It is a well recognized fact in cheese making that fine quality and delicate flavor cannot be secured when high heat is used in manipulating the curds. The best cheese are made at low temperatures, and when dairymen fancy the curd must be cooked to Practical Dairy Husbandry. 443 preserve it, they have an erroneous idea of the true principles of clieese making. The raanuiacture of cheese is in part a chemical process. We have a material composed of various constituents, and the art is to separate these constituents, selecting those required to form cheese and expelling the others. Milk as it comes from the cow is properly prepared for food. It needs no further cooking to be assimilated, and what the cheese maker Avants is to extract the caseine and butter, getting rid of the water and reducing the mass to a solid. The butter is not improved by cooking, neither is the caseine, and hence, as we find in practice, the best cheese is made when neither the milk nor the curds have been subjected to so high a heat as would cook them. After the curds are broken up we use heat for the purpose of expelling the whey. A change is constantly going on. The heat assists in developing an acid, which causes the curds to contract, expelling the whey. The process of separating the whey should be slow, and the whey should flow away gradually, otherwise there is a loss of oily particles. The butter is contained in the shells of caseine and is not acted upon by rennet. If the contraction of the caseine is rapid, the oily globules are forced out Avith the whey, instead of being retained and amalgamated with the mass, and you have a tough, leathery cheese. Milk which is exposed to the atmosphere and warmth begins to put on an acid condition as soon as drawn from the cow. In cheese making we want to carry this acid just far enough to expel the surplus whey, retaining the butter and a certain amount of moisture. If Ave stop short of the required point, too much whey Aviil be retained and cannot be pressed out. When the cheese is put upon the shelf this pent up whey decomposes, becomes acid, and jjarts from the caseine, and we have a leaky cheese. If the cheese is kept in a Avarm place and the whey is soon expelled, the cheese, though defective in flavor, may pass as second rate ; but if the whey cannot find an exit, it soon becomes sour and putrid, and the cheese, in consequence, is positively bad. On the other hand, Avhen the acid is carried too far, the curds part with too much moisture and Ave have a hard, dry cheese. What is understood, then, by the terra " cooking the curd," is the application of a gentle heat for the i:)urpose of developing a certain degree of acidity, that the whey may properly 2:>art from the solids, a sufficient amount being retained to carry on the process of fermentation Avhen the cheese goes into the curing-room. It is very difficult to carry this acid to the proper j^oint while the whey is in the vat. It is preferable, therefore, to draw the Avhey as soon as acidity becomes perceptible to the taste or smell, and allow a further development in the curds after the Avhey is drawn. A good many cheese makers who get the idea that curds must be cooked like a piece of meat, often spoil their cheese by applying heat too rapidly and running the mass up at too high a temperature. They do not seem to under- stand the leading principle of this part of the process, which is a slow development of acid in the curds. Instead of heating gradually and watching b5s 444 Practical Dairy Husbandry. for tliis development, they push the heat, thinking they can effect their object in cooking ; the consequence is, an inferior product, destitute of that quality and flavor that the market now demands. VIEVrS OF AIR. FISH ON HEAT IJT CHEESE MAKING. In discussing the question of heat in cheese making, Mr. A. L. Fish of Herkimer, N. Y., well known as a distinguished practical cheese manufac- turer, as well as one of the early Avriters on dairy farming, has recently presented the following as his matured views on the subject of heat, and they deserve attention. He says:— "In contemplating the agency of heat in making and curing cheese, we are led to consider that cheese has a physical constitution, like other bodies, subject to growth and decay, that require a list of substances, in their formation, which is assimilated by special agencies and brought to an equipoise ; in other words, brought into such a condition that opposing forces balance each other equally. Such a condition we denominate the constitution of animate and inanimate bodies. The condition or power to hold an equipoise or equilibrium of opposing forces, determines the liability to slow or more speedy decay and dissolution. I have hinted the capacity of heat to prevent and destroy consolidation; also, its indispensable agency in inducing relation and union of extraneous matter in forming solids. Its most judicious appliance in cheese making, where it is required to serve a double purpose, is the question to be discussed. First, what is a proper temperature to apply to the fluid mass (milk), in bringing it to condition most favorable for the aid and action of rennet in separating and dispelling such a portion of fluid j^arts as desirable, and no more, and why ? My answer is, not exceeding 98°, because that is the point nature has fixed to sustain the most healthy and active condition in the animal organism. Hence, a higher temperature weakens the action of the rennet in bringing the mass to a unity. Any excess of heat applied to a part unfits it for a union with other parts. Solids are formed by cohesive attraction, which draws particles of matter of a sameness together. Any agency or condition that makes these unlike, prevents a perfect union. In cheese, it is manifest in swelling after being pressed, or by a rough, sticky, or crackly surface, and a lack of close adhesiveness of the meat of the cheese, which indicate that the agencies used in forming its constitution have not been equipoised in the process of manu- facture. Such a condition involves the question, which of the agencies used is in fault ? INJUDICIOUS USE OF HEAT. " Some will say weak rennet, premature acidity, putrefactive fermenta- tion from some unknown cause, &c. ; but few seem to appreciate that an injudicious use of heat may be a fruitful cause, while a proper use might be a preventive. I trust all practical cheese makers will agree with us in the assertion that curd having been exposed to 140° heat, and mixed with other curd not exposed to over 100°, will not make a good cheese; if so, does it I Practical Dairy Husbandry. 445 not follow logically, that any portion of the milk or curd exposed to that degree of high heat, will not unite harmoniously with other portions exposed to much less heat ? If such a varied condition is admitted to he wrong, the next question is, do we practice it, and if so, what is a remedy ? From my observations in the usual mode of managing heat in milk and curd, and curino--rooms, I am convinced that sufficient care is not taken to suppress the action of heat when less is needed ; hence a large proportion of the imperfec- tions of our factory cheese is traceable to an injudicious management of heat. In explanation, I will address myself to the patrons of cheese factories first, because with them lies the first practical remedy, as they have the ability to suppress the action of heat upon the milk before it reaches the factorymen, by stirring and cooling it immediately after it is drawn from the cows, which should always be done to guard against the tendency of heat to induce acidity and putrescence. If the habit of thus cooling the milk to a low temperature was universal among dairymen, it would result in a profit that is now lost to all interested. The advantages would be more pounds and better quality of cheese from a given amount of milk, because the manufacturer would not be compelled to use means to hasten the separation of fluid portions of milk from the caseine too rapidly, which is always wasteful. BEST MODE OF APPLYING HEAT. " In considering the best mode of applying heat to the mass of milk or curd, I shall not favor or discard any patent or fixture now used for that purpose, but will lay down as a practical rule (and would invite the attention of skilled mechanics to it) that an apparatus or fixture by which heat is imparted or conveyed to the mass, the mildest and most uniformly to every part, and having otherwise the most perfect control of heat, is to be preferred, because a uniform low temperature conveyed to every part and particle of the mass, is the principle relied on to preserve a perfect affinity or sameness of condition. To insure the most perfect cheese, the less antagonism induced in the process of manufacture the more perfect cheese will be attained. Con- veying heat by any means into a thin sheet or volume of water contained between the outer and inner vat I consider injudicious, because there is not water enough to soften the heat before it comes in contact with the inner vat containing the milk or curd. I am not able to understand how a large vat of milk or curd can be heated by discharging steam or boiling water into a thin sheet of water between vats Avithout some portions of it coming in contact with a surface heated to a point that Avill melt the buttery globules and otherwise imfit it to harmonize with other portions not so exposed. I have frequently examined the heated surface of inner vats, and found it so heated as to burn my flesh, and an oily substance floating on the whey, and clots of curd resting on the overheated surface melted together, and I did not Avonder that cheese made with such practice got out of flavor and became unsalable. '^^S Practical Dairy Husbandry. GUARD AGAINST OVERHEATING. " As a guard against thus overheating I would suggest a widening and enlargement of the heating medium between the vats, so that the heat con- veyed through it will be softened and equalized before coming in contact with the inner vat. It should be held in view by the vat builder, that the I wider the space between the points of discharging heat, and the vat containing the milk or curd to be hot, the softer and mere uniform will be the effect of heat, and the less liability to a deranged constitution in the cheese. When heat and rennet in their joint action are supposed to have dispelled a desired portion of the fluid of milk, it is essential to arrest uniformly their further progress through the whole mass to preserve an affinity of the parts to be pressed into cheese. This should not be done too suddenly before adding salt, as a sudden chill of the curd would cause it to reject the effect of salt to properly season the curd, which, while warm, has a tendency to expel animal odors if thoroughly stirred in cooling. After being salted warm, and packed, and covered to steep for ten minutes, then if well stirred, and cooled to 80° before putting it in pr.'ss hoops, the action of the heat and rennet are so checked as to give the new agent (salt) control of opposing forces in the process of curing. The cooler the curing-room is kept, the less salt is required to preserve cheese from taint, and the less salt used the earlier the maturity of cheese. The proper construction of the curing-room is essential to a proper control of heat in process of curing. DANGER OF HIGH HEAT. " The danger of high heat is not past till cheese is ripened for market A perfectly made cheese is often spoiled by too much and uneven heat in curing. A steady, even temperature should be kept, not exceeding 70°, with free ventilation at bottom and top of the room, so arranged that the outer air may be let in at pleasure at the bottom or near the floor below the cheese and pass out through draft tubes at the top of the room through the center which should be made to be closed when a draft is not needed to carry off surplus heat or dampness in the room, or for changing the air. HEAT IN CURING-ROOMS. " Curing-rooms built tight with six inches space for air between inner and outer ceiling with tubes six inches square passing through to the open air at the outer end, made to close at pleasure at the inside to reject too much air placed once in ten feet on all sides of the room near the floor, with draft tubes twelve inches square once in ten feet through the center of the top of the room, will afford a sufficient circulation of air at all times in the largest sized rooms; the air chamber at the side and over the top of the room protects it from sudden effects of external heat. The upper floor or ceiling should be covered with sawdust or fine shavings, to prevent concentration of heat from above. No more windows should be used than are needed to give sufficient light, as they are seldom if ever needed for air. With such ventilation and Practical Dairy Husbandry. 447 construction of the curing-room, as described, I have found no difficulty in keeping any desired temperature down to 70°. If a succession of extreme heat is raising the temperature above a desired point, it may be checked by closing tlie ventilatmg tubes when the air without is warmer than desired, and placing ice in the room on a drainer over a tub or box to catch the water as the ice dissolves." DR. wight's views. In a recent discussion before the National Dairymen's Club, Dr. Wight, of the Whitesboro Factory, said : — " If the milk tends to acidity, less heat and more rennet should be used; if the milk should be tainted the converse would be the treatment, viz., more heat and less rennet. I have observed that the slight difference of not more than two degrees in warming the curd will at times make one or two cents per pound difference in the price of the cheese when sold, all other conditions being apparently the same. I have also noticed that when green cheese is exposed to too low a temperature in the early stages of curing, it invariably injures the texture, flavor and general quality of the product during all the future stages of curing. In fact, T firmly believe that if the milk should constantly be kept at a proper temperature, and the curing-rooms be kept at a temperature neither too low nor too high — all of which is barely and simply a work of art entirely under our own control — I firmly believe, I say, that these conditions being constantly and rigidly observed, we may readily save all that depreciation in the quality and price of cheese which now invariably takes place during the heat of summer ; losing to the dairyman seldom less than three, and frequently five and six cents jDer pound. With the temperature of our milk and our manufactories kept at a sufficiently low degree during the months of June, July and August, we may preserve the cheese made during these months for the fall trade, and thus realize an equal, if not a higher price for them than we now do for our best fall cheese. warming curing-rooms by steam. " I Avill close with a few suggestions about the best mode of presei'ving the most equable and proper temperatures in our curing-houses. Thorough ventilation being premised, I would Avarm the rooms by steam pipes and cool them by the admission of cold air from an ice-house, keeping the temperature as near 70° as may be, equable throughout the building, and a little moist rather than too dry. By strict attention to these few things much improve- ment may be made in the quality and profits of our products." Mr. Alexander McAdam, the very successful manufacturer of the Smith Creek Factory, said, "In making cheese now (very early in spring) we are making from milk three messes of which are skimmed and one new. When skimmed the milk is placed in a warm place where the temperature is adapted for the cream rising. Set at eighty, and coagulated sufficient to cut in thirty minutes, it commences to thicken in fifteen minutes. He used extra rennet for skim-milk cheese. He heated it slowly to eighty-eight. Sometimes in 448 Practical Dairy Husbandry. cold weather the milk is very sweet and it may lie five or six hours in the whey. He meant to keep the temjDerature about eiglity-eio-ht. TEMPERATURE WHEN ONE MESS IS SKIMMED. " When the weather becomes warmer he will use the milk with one mess skimmed, and then the temperature would be at eighty-two and heat up to ninety-two and keep to this temperature. This milk would require thirty-five minutes to coagulate. He was accustomed to have coagulation occur sooner than some factories, as some let it run an hour or even an hour and ten minutes. By scalding as low as eighty-eight, the curd keeps soft and the acid is developed before the curd becomes solid. He used more rennet, less salt and less heat when making skim-milk cheese than without skimmino- the milk. The salt is applied upon the slightest appearance of the acid. He used it at the rate of one and one-half pounds of salt to the thousand pounds of milk. The appearance of the cheese after coming from the press must be the guide to the temperature and according to the appeai-ance of the cheese is determined the place upon the shelves. The curd should be put to press as soon as convenient after grinding, and before it gets too cool to face good. MANAGEMENT WHEN FAILING TO PACE. " If it failed to face, he used hot water and hot cloths imder the follower and hot water upon the press board. If too much rennet was used the curd would be rather slimy and it Avould not unite as well, but if the rennet was sweet the taste Avould not be aflfected. He thought if too much rennet was used some of the excess would be held at least mechanically in the curd and would appear in the color. TEMPERATURE FOR WHOLE MILK. " He used with all new milk in spring manufacture a temperature of eighty- two, and heat to ninety-four, and in curing he would not use over sixty-five in the dry-house — such a handling would produce a fine-flavored cheese. The action of heat facilitates the action of the rennet. He would use more heat after applying the rennet. As a general thing he did not think two or three degrees in temperature would make a great difference in the price of the cheese when made. He thought time would modify the slight excess of temperature. He would heat whole milk up to ninety-six in the summer time." ADVANTAGES OF A CELLAR UNDER CHEESE FACTORIES. Mr. McAdam spoke of a cheese factory which had a good cellar under it. He said "In the summer time this cellar could be used with great advan- tage as a curing-room. And in the spring and fall the cellar could be used for a making-room, and the curing done above. HOW IS THE RIPENING OP CHEESE AFFECTED BY THE MODE OP MANU- FACTURE ? " This subject is quite important, as it is often necessary to manufacture cheese that will ripen very quickly. When the market is declining, to have Practical Dairy Husbandry. 449 as many of them as possible fit for sale, and consequently bring a liiglier price, is the great desideratum. On the contrary, when the cheese-market is advancing it is often advisable to make cheese that will take a much longer time in curing, so that in holding for higher prices there will be less danger of deterioration in the quality of the cheese by their becoming off in flavor. Now, in the ripening or curing of cheese, I regard the action of the rennet as the element that does the whole business ; and, therefore, in making cheese that are to cure quickly, we have only to place the rennet in the most favor- able circumstances for promoting its growth all through the process of manu- facture, and to cure slowly, the opposite. Now, what are the most favorable circumstances for promoting the growth of the spores of the rennet ? " First, is the presence of the greatest quantity of butter in the milk to be manufactured into cheese. Second, a larger amount of rennet added to such milk. Third, by using a lower temperature in cooking or scalding the curd. Fourth, the absence or a minimum amount of acid in the curd, when the salt is added ; and. Fifth, a less quantity of salt added to the curd ; also by keeping the cheese in the curing-room at a higher temperature. Cheese made from tainted milk will naturally cure more quickly than if the milk was good. An exactly opposite process will check the growth of the spores of the rennet in the milk, curd and cheese, and cause the cheese to cure more slowly. Heat hastens the development of the acid more rapidly than the development of the rennet spores, and though heat hastens both developments, the acid is generated faster relatively. Cheese cured quickly ought to go into immediate consumption, as if kept, especially in warm weather, they deteriorate in quality very rapidly. And I think that the com- plaints of the English shippers about the defects in the color and flavor of American cheese, when held over winter, are mainly owing to the fact that these cheese have been cured too quickly to hold long." These views above, from some of our most successful cheese-makers, and very recently expressed (1871), are worthy of attention. SALTING THE CURDS. The leading object of using salt in the curds is to arrest putrefactive fer- mentation, and hold the cheese in a condition to make a suitable article of food. Different nations, it is true, differ in their tastes. Some of the people on the continent of Europe have so educated their taste as to prefer cheese that is more or less tainted, but the English race, as a rule, demand a clean, well- flavored article. As we are manufacturing mostly for English and American markets, my remarks must refer particularly to the great bulk of goods made to suit, what may be denominated as the English taste. The Swiss, the Lim- berger, and other characters of cheese are now made to some extent in this country, but the quantity is so small when compared with the great mass of our product, that American dairymen do not generally understand what the peculiar flavor is which is esteemed in the cheeses referred to. .29 450 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Salt is a very important agent in modifying the taste of cheese,, and on the manner in which it is^used, will depend in a great measure the character and reputation of the dairy in market. In the application of salt there can be but little doubt, that fine, clean flavor can be best secured in the cheese by salting when the curds are comparatively cool. Some manufacturers have the impression that salt is more efficient, and is more evenly distributed when the curds are quite warm. I believe it is a well-established rule among meat packers, that meats are secured in the best condition when salt is applied after the meat has cooled off. At any rate in cheese manufacture a fine, delicate flavor is only obtained when salt is applied to the curds at a low temperature. This rule is strictly observed in the celebrated dairies of England, whether it be Cheshire or Cheddar. Among the best Cheshire dairies, the heat at no time during the process of manufacture is allowed to run above 78* or 80", and in applying salt, as a rule 1b° should be regarded as the maximum tem- perature of the curds. In addition to the liability of affecting injuriously the flavor of cheese, by applying salt while the curds are too warm, the salt has another effect. Its action is to harden the parts of the curd Avith which it comes in contact, sur- rounding them with a tough pellicle or coat of caseine, and thus preventing a free flow of whey. The whey should be thoroughly expelled before salting, for in no other way can the quantity of salt be regulated with certainty. If there is much whey in the curds at the time of salting, it will be no easy matter to guess at the quantity of salt that will pass off in the whey, and hence, when this kind of guess work is relied on by the manufacturers, the cheese will not be of uniform character. When too small a quantity of salt is used, the cheese ripens with great rapidity, and must be eaten when com- paratively young, for it will soon get out of flavor. Oh the other hand, too much salt delays the ripening process ; the cheese is long in coming to maturity, and is likely to be hard and stiff. It Avill be seen, therefore, that the quantity of salt to be used should be pretty accurately determined, according to the character of cheese we design to make. If we want cheese to ripen in thirty days from the tub or vat, and go into market early and be consumed, the quantity of salt must be regulated for that object; while cheese of long-keeping qualities, maturing slowly, and requiring a higher per centage of salt, must needs have the quantity also regulated with precision. When the curds are drained, and subjected to pressure for a short time in the hoop, and then broken up by passing through a curd mill, and then salted as in the Cheddar process, the proportion of salt can be regulated with great nicety. But in all cases, before salting, it is well to have the curds as dry as they can be conveniently made. ^ Another office of salt is to check the acidity of the curds. When the acid has been fully developed, and the process carried far enough, the appli- cation checks its further progress, and thus, in the manipulation, is made to serve a very important purpose in the hands of a skillful manufacturer. I can Practical Dairy Husbandry. 451 only announce some of the principles to be observed in the use of salt for clieese-malcing. What I particularly wish to impress is, that it cannot be employed at random, and that the making of fine cheese depends, in a good degree, upon the time, manner and quantity in which the manufacturer employs this agent for his work. The quantity of salt used by manufjxcturers varies according to the character of cheese to be made at different seasons of the year, from two and one-fourth to three pounds of salt to one hundred pounds of green cheese. In spring, when it is desired to have the cheese ripen quickly, as low a proportion as two to two and one-fourth pounds are used. In hot weather, two and a-half to two and seven-tenths pounds, for one hundred pounds green cheese are employed by the best manufacturers, aud sometimes three pounds are used, and these proportions refer to curds that are not pressed before salting, and consequently are not thoroughly drained of whey. The rule among the best Cheddar dairymen of England is one pound of salt for fifty-six pounds of curd ; the salt applied after the curds have been pressed for ten minutes in the hoop, and then ground in a curd mill, the temperature of the curds being from 60° to 65°. The English Cheddars are longer in coming to maturity than the usual style of American manufacture. It will be seen, also, that in the English process, the curds are made dryer at the time of salting, than generally obtains in American manufacture, and that in consequence a less amount of salt is required, or is used, than at the American factories. THE KIND OF SALT TO BE USED. Much has been said and written about salt for dairy purposes ; the subject is by no means exhausted ; it at least demands discussion and agitation, so long as dairy products continue to be injured and spoiled by the use of an impure article. Many people imagine that all salt in the market is pure ; that if its appearance to the eye is clean, it contains no ingredients deleterious to butter and cheese, and that all the difference between a common article and the higher grades consists in pulverizing and putting up in neater packages. One can meet scores of men who will insist there is no other difference than that we have named, and that they do not propose to throw away money on a high-priced article. They prefer to prepare their own salt, crushing the lumps, if necessary, and chuckling over the superior sagacity they have to those who are throwing away their money on a high-priced article. Some- how it generally turns out that these very wise and saving persons have a low grade product of butter and cheese, and in consequence make sales con- siderably below those obtained for a first-class article. I have sustained losses, both in butter and cheese, on account of using poor salt, and I have no confidence in the common barrel salt constantly to be met with in the market. Some of it may be good, and most of it may possibly do for the ordinary purposes for which it was intended, but the risk never should be taken of using it in butter and cheese. The dealers and 452 Practical Dairy Husbandry. experts in butter have for years cautioned the butter-makers to use nothino- but the best Ashton or LiverjDool salt. Chlorides of calcium and magnesium are the substances in salt which affect the taste and injure the quality of butter, however carefully otherwise it may be made. Solar salt, produced by evaporating the brines, and which is largely used by packers, though it may not contain any deleterious substance that would affect meats, is very likely to contain a sufficient per centage of the chlorides to injure the taste of butter. To the cultivated taste of an experienced butter buyer, the least trace of the chlorides existing in the salt used betrays its presence. The Ashton is a very good salt, but is expensive. All the salt sold under the name or brand of Ashton is not genuine. Cheese and butter- makers should purchase their salt only of reliable dealers— men Avho know where they obtain their goods, and can vouch for their quality. Somewhat recently the Onondaga Salt Works, at Syracuse, N. Y., have been manufacturing a superior dairy salt. Prof Goessman, a distinguished chemist, was employed for some years at the Works, to superintend the manufacture of salt, with a view of freeing it from deleterious substances, and it is by his process that the brand known as " factory filled " or dairy salt is now manufactured. From numerous chemical analyses, it exhibits greater purity than the Ashton and other foreign brands, and its use among our best dairymen, for some years, has proved its perfect adaptation to the dairy. At the New York State Fair, in 1867, there was a large exhibition of butter from different parts of the State, and among the packages were a num- ber of samples, half of which had been salted with Onondaga and half with Ashton salt. The Committee, composed of experts, pronounced, in twenty- five cases, the butter cured with factory filled salt, made at the New York Mills, Syracuse, to be the best, as compared with its alternate package, cured in the same dairy with Ashton. Prof S. W. Johnson of the Sheffield Scien- tific School, Yale College, has stated that the purest salt made in this or any other country that he is acquainted with, came from Syracuse, where the ingenious processes of Dr. Goessman were then employed, and that such factory filled salt must take rank second to none, as regards purity and free- dom from any deleterious ingredients, especially the chlorides of calcium and magnesium. Gov. Alvoed of Syracuse stated, at a meeting of the Amer- ican Dairymen's Association, that the Onondaga Salt Company were pre- pared to guarantee their factory filled salt, and to pay for every pound of butter or cheese that was injured by the use of such salt ; but the salt must come from the accredited agents of the Company, as certain dealers had been known to put up other salt in packages, using the factory filled brand. I have referred to these facts, because I know the genuine article to be good ; and as it is furnished much cheaper than the foreign or imported salt, it is of interest for dairymen to know it. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 453 to distinguish good salt. A satisfactory evidence of pure salt is its dryness, as the chlorides cause salt to absorb and retain moisture. In order that dairymen may be enabled to judge somewhat of the character of good dairy salt, from its aj)pearance in addition to its dryness, I give the following from Prof. Chaeles H. Porter : — " A chalky or very fine grained or pulverulent salt is not the best for dairy purposes, and would at once be rejected, I believe, by experience dairymen. A good dairy salt, ought, I imagine, besides being of proper chemical composition, to be of moderately fine grain, crystalline and trans- parent, and, when seen in a mass, of a pure white color ; it ought to be free from odor, and possess that sharp, pungent taste characteristic of pure salt." STIRRING THE MILK DURING THE NIGHT. One of the mechanical devices brought to the notice of cheese-manu- facturers, during the past few years, is the milk agitator. They commenced to be used in 1867, but since that time their use has become quite general, and our best factories in New York consider them of great utility. They are without doubt one of the useful improvehients for cheese factories in this age of fertile invention. There are two or three kinds, but all work nearly upon the same principle, or accomplish the same object, that is, stirring the milk in the vats during the night, and are operated by the waste water from the vats. Before these appliances came in use, it was necessary for cheese- makers to stir the night's milk in the vats until it Avas reduced to a temper- ature of 60". In hot weather the constant flow of water under the milk, or between the vats, Avas not sufficient to preserve it in good order, and this stirring had to be continued, from time to time, until a late hour of the night. It is evident if machinery can be introduced for this purpose, a great saving of labor is secured. There is another object gained by stirring the milk at intervals during the night : the cream is prevented from rising, which is of great importance where butter is not made at the factory, as it is very difficult to get the cream which has once risen back again into the milk for cheese-making with- out loss ; and again, the particles of milk being moved so as to be exposed to the atmosphere, it keeps in better order. The apparatus is quite simple, and consists merely of a wooden float, attached to an arm, which is carried back and forward, at intervals, across the vat, and operated by a water wheel or water box, which is kept moving by the M'aste water from the vats. Doubtless much benefit is often gained by this movement of the milk, especially when not in perfect condition, as the particles are being constantly exposed to the atmosphere, and improved by allowing bad odors to pass off: During the summer of 1867 one of the best cheese manufacturers of Oneida wrote to me as follows : — " Believing, as I do, that the agitator deserves more extensive notice, and more general introduction into cheese 454 Practical Dairy Husbandry. factories than it has yet received, I desire to add my testimony respect- ing its merits and benefits. Some weeks since I consented to have the agitator introduced into the four vats of my factory, on trial ; I am so far pleased with it, that I have come to the conclusion that it is a necessary appurtenance to my factory. It is not claimed for it, I believe, that a larger yield of cheese can be obtained by its use, though I am of opinion that a slight increase in quantity and quality will result, when the agitator is judiciously used; this will especially be the case in the cold part of the season : it certainly is a perfect preventive of the raising of any cream, and that this is an important advantage no one will deny, I find, also, that the milk in the vats, in the morning, has an incomparably sweeter, cleaner, fresher taste and smell than ever before ; and this, notwithstanding the fact that my spring aifords an abundance of excellent water, and the temperature of the milk in the morning, before the agitator was put in, had always been Austin's Agitator, showino Water Wheel and manner op appltinq Eakes to the Vats. from 54° to 58°. The necessity of stirring milk until ten, eleven and even twelve o'clock at night, as is the case in very many factories, is entirely obviated. If there were no other advantage arising, resulting from its use, this alone should be sufficient argument in its favor. Factory hands work hard, and if the night's labor can be dispensed with, it should be done. Of course, further experience and fuller acquaintance with its operations and effects may modify and radically change my views in relation to it. After the testimony of such experienced and successful cheese-makers as Col. Miller and others, who used it last year, I hardly look for such a result. At present I heartily commend its use, only suggesting that, in my judg- ment, the motion of the frame and rakes should be slow— not over two or three strokes per minute." The experience of the past three years has con- firmed these views as to the utility of this appliance. Practical Dairy Husbandry. >^ 455 use op ice in" cooling and preserving milk, The use of ice in cooling and preserving milk for cheese manufacture is practiced to a large extent. It is applied in various ways ; sometimes by adding it in messes to the milk in the vats, or by placing it in large tin cool- ers, which are then immersed in the milk, and in various other ways, to suit the convenience of those who have the care of the dairy. Recently coolers have been invented, to be used for cooling milk with ice at the farm ; but it may be well to caution those who employ ice for this purjDose, that it should not be used in direct contact with the milk, or in any way in which the milk may come in contact with an ice-cold surface. . An impression prevails with many that no injury can result to milk from the use of ice, no matter in what way it may be employed. Ice, if judiciously used in connection with the dairy, is convenient and useful in hot weather, and especially so when the supply of water is limited, or its temperature is so high that the milk cannot be cooled down properly by it alone. But because the direct application of an ice cold surface does not do the milk any apparent injury for the moment, it must not be inferred that it has no remote influence upon the product of butter and cheese which may be manufactured out of such milk. All animal bodies, though they may be kept fresh and sweet for a long time when laid upon ice in an ice box, yet when exposed to the air and warmth rapidly decompose and become stale. When milk has been cooled by coming in contact with ice and then manufactured into cheese, the injury does not immediately show itself; but it has been observed that the cheese ripens rapidly, decays early, and will not keep in flavor like that which is made of milk, none of the particles of which have come in contact with a sur- face of lower temperature than 50®. The butter makers of Orange county,. N. Y., who have experimented laro-ely with milk, are extremely cautious in the use of ice in connection with butter manufacture. It is sometimes necessary to use it during hot weather while churning, by breaking it up fine and applying it to the cream in the churn ; but when ice has been employed in this way, the butter will not keep ; though for present use the butter may be regarded as of prime quality. In 1868, during the month of July, we had extremely warm weather, and ice was used in the New York factories quite freely — often injudiciously. From an account of the cheese made that year, given by the English shjpper, Mr. Webb, it appears there was not a single factory sending cheese abroad that had it arrive and retain a good, clean flavor. He says : — " The English dealer and the English consumer alike began to get a surfeit of that strong flavored, loosely made, bad-keeping quality, which was the universal characteristic of the July make of cheese. This inferior quality," he remarks, "was doubtless largely owing to the intensely hot weather then prevailing. But whatever the cause, your very serious attention should be directed to the discovery of a remedy — for not a single dairy, .is far as my personal experience and pretty full inquiries extended, not one single dairy stood the test of that most trying 456 ^ Practical Dairy Husbandry. month. Even those dairies that for a series of years have been always and uniformly excellent, did not hold their own last July ; but proved in the matter of flavor and keeping qualities to be no better than the great majority of your State factories." Now how far the injudicious use of ice may have added to the trouble I am unable to say; but I have no doubt that some share at least may be justly laid to that source. I have personal knowledge of some factories where large quantities of ice are used to cool the milk by applying it directly to the milk in the vats, and the milk is apparently in good order, and yet great complaint is made of the cheese manufactured as soon "off flavor," while it must be observed that the best flavored goods are not made at those factories which use the ice in this way ; but where there is an abundance of pure, cold water — cold water and an agitator which stirs the milk during the nio-ht, worked by the waste water from the vats, give practically the best results. As this question of ice is somewhat new to the dairy public, and has not been very closely investigated by cheese manufacturers, it will be sufficient to call attention to the matter, with the suggestion to avoid as far as possible the use of ice, or an ice cold surface in direct contact with the milk. DRAWING OFF THE CURDS. Where large quantities of milk are delivered at one point to be manufac- tured into cheese, it is important to have every convenience, so that it may be handled easily and expeditiously. Without convenient appliances the cheese factory system would be a failure. It would be very difficult, and perhaps impossible, to make the fine character of cheese now demanded in the leading markets of the Avorld by massing the milk in large quantities, and using old appliances in operation before the factory system was inaugurated. It is to the perfection of cheese factory machinery and the mechanical devices for manipulating milk in proper time that the manufacturer, in a great measure, owes his success. It is true, intelligence and skill, with habits of close obser- vation, are necessary in cheese manufacture, and no amount of mechanical contrivance can be substituted for them. But as many of the operations in cheese making admit of no delay, but require immediate and rapid action, the appliances must be suited to the work, or the most skillful operator will be liable to fail in securing the best results. What seems to be a most for- tunate thing for American cheese dairying is, that whenever any essential point or principle is discovered in manufacture, the inventors imme- diately step in with devices or contrivances for easily securing the object desired. I could mention several of these which are unknown among the best Cheddar cheese makers of England, and which doubtless would not yet have been invented here had we remained under the old system of farm dairies. THE SHUTE. Among the somewhat recent improvements in cheese factory arrangements IS the Shute. This invention originated in Herkimer county, and is now Pracjical Dairy Husbandry. 457 being adopted by all the new or improved rnodled factories. The shute is now introduced among those factories in New York which produce cheese that sells for extreme or " top prices." I do not presume to say that the shute is the only or chief cause of the high reputation which these factories enjoy, and yet I have no doubt it has contributed somewhat in efiecting this reputation. Indeed, in some instances at least, tlie manufacturers are from factories where the shute is not employed, and only in taking charge of the shute factories have their reputations reached the enviable position they now enjoy. The shute is an arrangement in the vats, whereby all the curds in the vats may be thrown upon the sink in a moment. In this arrano-ement the floor of the manufacturing room at one end of the vats is sunk some four feet below the part upon which the vats stand. Here is placed the sink upon rails, and in some instances immediately back of it the presses. The ends of the vats come out nearly to the fall in the floor, and in the end of each vat there is a large circular opening secured with an iron door, water-tight, which is opened for the discharge of the curds. When a vat is to be emptied the sink is rolled along opposite the vat, the vat canted down, the tin conductor placed under the orifice or point of discharge in the vat, and the iron door removed. In this manner the vat is rapidly emptied of its contents, and the curds at once spread out upon the sink to cool. Old clieese makers will readily understand the advantage of this arrangement. When the acid is properly developed it should be immediately checked. With large masses of curd, and under the old arrangement, it was very difficult to time opera- tions to meet this condition. To dip the curd out with pails often required so much time that, do the best you could, the acid would often be carried too far before the work was accomplished. As the temperature of the atmosphere varies from day to day, and the condition of the milk is also difierent, it was exceedingly difficult to calculate the changes that would occur in a few minutes. It will be seen, then, how great the advantage is when the manu- facturer can empty his vat at once. Sometimes acidity goes on gradually for a time, and then all at once is developed much more rapidly than was antici- pated. With the shute you are master of the situation ; you have the whole matter under control ; you manipulate your forces to produce an exact result ; you march to the very threshold of danger, but do not step over the line ; you have control of the shute, and at the word of command you feel that you can count upon accomplishing the object desired. The shute is, without doubt, of considerable assistance in securing the make of nice, marketable goods, and its adoption can be recommended on- this account, in addition to the labor it saves over the old plan of dipping. PROCESS FOK MAKING EXTRA PINE CHEESE. We have now discussed at length some of the leading points in cheese manufacture, and I here give some of the most recent views and practice of manufacturers who have been successful in making a high-priced cheese, and 458 Practical Dairy Husbandry. ^ in this connection the following paper of Mr. A. McAdam, read at the Dairy- men's Convention of 1871, so fully explains in regular order and in detail the method of cheese making at the Smith Creek factory, that it will be useful. I may remark in passing that the cheese made at the Smith Creek factoiy in 1869 and 1870 was regarded by dealers and shippers as a fancy article, and it sold at the Little Falls, N. Y., market uniformly at the highest price paid for best factories, Mr. McAdam says : — " I will give a description of the process as I practice it, and state some of the reasons why I practice it. As you ai'e probably all aware, the milk that is delivered at cheese factories is not always in the same state, sometimes being tainted or partially putrid, sometimes sour, or nearly so, and sometimes it is, what it always ought to be, perfect. I propose to describe the process, first, when the milk is right and good; second, when it is partially sour, and third, when tainted. The evening's milk, when delivered at the factory, ought to be cooled so as to reach a temperature of 58° to 62° in the morning. When the morning's milk is added, it is heated to 80", then enough rennet is added to coagulate the mass in as nearly forty minutes' time as possible. When the curd has attained sufficient consistency, it is cut four times — twice with the horizontal curd knife, and twice with the perpendicular one, with a short interval between each cutting. The curd is then gently manipulated and heated to 96°, care being taken to prevent the curd from packing on the bottom of the vat ; the time required for heating being from an hour to an hour and a-half. The stirring is continued for ten or fifteen minutes after this heat has been attained, and the curd is then allowed to pack on the bottom of the vat, where it lies undisturbed until the separation of the whey from the curd becomes necessary. Up to this stage the process is almost identical with that prac- ticed in manufacturing cheese in the usual manner. " In the manufacture of American cheese (I will so designate the method usually practiced, to distinguish it from the process, which I will term Ched- dar)^ it is of the utmost importance to determine the precise time at which to separate the whey from the curd, and it is also an operation requiring the greatest amount of skill and experience, as well as the exercise of the nicest sense of taste and smell. But in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese it is not of the same vital importance, as the Avhey can be separated from the curd from half an hour to an hour and a-half before acidity is developed so as to be perceptible ; and, on the other hand, the whey can be left on the curd till the acid is distinctly developed, without materially affecting the quality of the product. As the acid or souring generally makes its appearance about noon, in summer, the Cheddar system gives factory hands more time lor dinner, and consequently they can masticate their food, instead of having to bolt it, as has to be done in many cases. When the whey is drawn off, and the vat tipped down on one end, the curd is then heaped on each side of the vat, leaving a space in the middle to allow the remainder of the whey to pass off. I may here state that when the " shute," or flood gate, is not used, there Practical Dairy Husbandry. 459 ought to be, in the Cheddar system, a faucet in the vat, to allow the whey to pass off as it drains from the curd. After the curd has laid in a heap on the bottom of the vat for jBfteen or twenty minutes, and the original particles of curd have become amalgamated into a solid mass, it is then cut into con- venient pieces with a knife, and turned over, and so left until the curd has become sour enough for grinding and salting, which is determined by the taste of the whey that drains from the curd. This whey should now have a sharp, sour milk taste, which can be understood by any intelligent cheese maker, after a few days' experience. The curd is then torn by hand into strips of two or three pounds weight, and allowed to cool for a short time, in order to allow the butter in it to become solid enough so as not to escape during the operation of grinding. The curd is then ground into pieces, averaging about the size of hickory nuts. Five hundred pounds of curd can be ground by hand, with Mc Adam's curd mill, in from five to fifteen minutes, according to the toughness of the curd and muscle of the operator. The salt is then immediately added and mixed thoroughly, at the rate of from one and a-half to two and a quarter pounds per one thousand pounds of milk, accord- ing to circumstances. The curd is then ready to be put into the hoops for pressing. " 2d. Mode of procedure when the milk we have to handle is (from what- ever cause) sour, or partially so ; and such cases are liable to happen in any factory, however well regulated. You are all aware that when milk is par- tially sour, it will coagulate in the same time as sweet milk with the addition of considerably less rennet. But to such milk I usually add more rennet, instead of less, so as to have the coagulation occur very quickly. As soon as the rennet has completed its ofiice, I commence cutting and working the curd much more rapidly than usual. In such cases I use very little heat in scald- ing — seldom heating over 86° or 90°, according to the severity of the case. Indeed, in some instances, when the milk is very sour, I do not think that it is advisable to heat the curd at all after coagulation. I reason in this way : just as good cheese can be made without scalding at all, as with it; the reason that we scald the curd (if heating to a temperature of 98° can be called scalding), is to develop the acid sooner, and if, when the curd is inclined to develop acid sooner than usual, we heat it to a temperature of 96° to 98°, we hasten the action of the acid, which is the very thing we are trying to avoid. In other words, when the acid in the curd is developing too fast of its own accord, we develop it still faster by means of heat, and thus aggra- vate the evil. After this curd is cut up, the whey must be removed from it as fast as it makes its appearance, and as soon as practicable the vat must be tipped down and the curd thrown to the upper end of the vat. The curd at this stage is very sloppy, as it contains considerable whey. One person should now cut it into small pieces with a knife, and another be employed in turning the pieces over and piling them up in heaps, so as to liberate the whey, which passes off in a continuous stream. When the curd has assumed 460 Practical Dairy Husbandry. a proper consistency it must be ground and salted ; the quantity of salt used must be according to the amount of whey contained in the curd, which-is generally, in such cases, considerably more than usual. In extreme cases, the whole process, from the adding of the rennet to the mixing in of the salt, can be performed in less than an hour. " To explain why more rennet is needed when the milk is partially sour, I will refer to the address delivered by Professor Caldwell last year, before this Convention, and also to the able and highly useful paper read by L. B. Arnold, Esq., on 'Rennet, its Nature and Use,' before the same Conven- tion. These gentlemen demonstrated to us very clearly that the acting principle of rennet consists of minute globules, or spores, which feed upon nitrogenous substances, and when placed in such, at a favorable temperature, multiply very rapidly. Now a quantity of rennet, containing a vast number of these spores, placed in a vat of milk which is highly nitrogenous, at a tem- perature of 80°, which is favorable to their growth, will multiply in a short time to such an extent as to cause its coagulation. And their action by no means stops here. They have still a very important mission to perform, viz., that of curing or ripening the cheese. And if the presence of these spores in the cheese, cures or rijjens it, an excess of them will ripen the cheese more quickly, and vice versa. Now we all know that a sour cheese, or a cheese which contains an excess of sour milk spores (Arthrococci), takes a much longer time to ripen than a sweet cheese, and vice versa. Therefore, to have a cheese cured in a given time, the spores of the Micrococci and of the Arthro- cocci, must be contained in it in relative quantities. So, when we have a vat of sour milk to handle, where the Arthrococci are in abundance, we must add more rennet to counterbalance their action on the nitrogenous ingredients of the milk, and thereby cause the cheese to ripen much quicker than if less rennet had been added. I have found by experiment, during the past sum- mer, that cheese made from sour milk in the above manner will cure as fast as other cheese, but they will require more annatto to make them of the same color, these sour milk spores appearing to have a destructive effect upon annatto. I have likewise noticed that such cheese will have more tendency to mold, but the flavor will not be objectionable. "3. When the milk is tainted, or has an excess of putrefactive spores. This tainted milk occurs, in some localities, in hot weather, no matter what care is taken in cleaning the ixtensils with which it comes, in contact, and I think that the milk is damaged in most cases before it is drawn from the cow. But of course it can be greatly aggravated by being brought into contact with unclean milk pails, strainers, cans, &c., which have not been properly cleansed, and therefore contain numbers of those putrefactive spores clinging to their seams and crevices, and which spring into new life and activity on being brought into contact with the warm milk. During the past season, from the middle of June to the middle of September, in a factory of over nine hundred cows, I did not have a vat of milk which was not tainted, most of it Fractical JJairy Husbandry. 461 very badly, and over one-third of it so much that the curd floated. The cheese made from this milk sold for the highest price iu the Little Falls mar- ket. In handling such milk I prefer to have the temperature of the evening's mess about 68° or 70° in the morning before the morning's milk is added, for two reasons. First, it has been shown that the putrefactive spores are in great abundance in such tainted milk ; by leaving the evening's milk through the night at a higher temperature, we promote the growth of the Arthro- cocci, or sour milk spores, and these check the growth of the Micrococci, and counterbalance their action to a certain degree. Second, when the milk is left through the night at a higher temperature, a great number of the putrefac- tive spores pass off in the form of gas, esi^ecially where the milk agitator is used. This we know by the foul odor it emits when warm, but when the milk is cooled to a low tem];)erature, this gas is not so volatile, and does not escape so readily, as we can perceive by its emitting little or no smell. But the cooling of the milk does not kill the Micrococci ; it only partially pre- vents their escape, and though at the same time cooling the milk, also retards their growth as well as their escape ; it also retards the growth of the sour milk spores, and these are much more efficient agents for the prevention of putrefaction than cooling is. Therefore, I maintain that the less tainted or putrid milk is cooled, so as not to be absolutely sour in the morning, the better the product obtained will be, if the milk be properly handled. I know that some cheese-makers prefer cooling such milk to as low a temperature as possible, and add sour whey with the rennet in the morning, and have very good success, but I prefer the former method, as by it the foi'mation of the putrefactive spores is checked at a much earlier stage of the proceedings. With this difference of cooling the milk, my process is the same with tainted milk as with good milk, until the separation of the whey from the curd. When tainted we allow the whey to remain on the curd imtil acid is slightly perceptible, whether the curd floats or not. The whey is then drawn off and the curd handled as before. If the curd is badly tainted, while lying in a mass at the bottom of the vat, it will swell up to twice its original size, like dough under the action of the yeast, and when broken emits a very offensive odor. The exact degree of acidity to be allowed to develop at this point is the most important, as well as the most difficult thing to determine in the whole management of floating curds, as the odor and taste of both the curd and the whey that drains from it very much resemble acid, and are in a great many instances mistaken for it. The acid ought to be developed just enough to kill the taint, and no more, and the result, notwithstanding the assertions of some to the contrary, will be a fine cheese. After the requisite amount of acid has been determined upon, and the curd ground and salted (using the same amount of salt as when not tainted), the curd must be cooled and ven- tilated as much as possible before being put to press. " I do not pretend to say that cheese can be made from tainted milk and floating curds, possessing quite as much of the fine, nutty aroma as f]-om 4G2 PRACTICAL DAIRY HUSBANDRY. curds properly handled which are not tainted at all. But I do assert that I have seen cheese made from floating curds, in several factories during the past summer, that were perfectly close, rich and meaty, having no objectionable flavor, and which not one expert in ten would object to. " One other fact I wish to mention : It requires more milk when tainted, to make a pound of cheese, than when it is not. One reason for this is, that more acid must be present in such cases, and, of course, the more acid the less cheese. In the Smith Creek Factory, last summer, it took two pounds more milk to make a pound of cheese in July than it did in April. " I have endeavored to tell you how I practice grinding curds. I will now try to tell you why I practice it. In the first place, I think that it requires less milk to make a pound of cheese ; in the second place, it does not tax the judgment of the cheese-maker so much, or require so much skill and atten- tion ; and, in the third place, I think that cheese made by the Cheddar process will be closer, and at tlie same time appear more rich and buttery, and will cure faster. It takes less milk to make a pound of cheese because the whey is drawn from the curd before the acid is perceptible, while in the American system, the whey has to be left on the curd from ten to sixty minutes after acid is detected, in order to insure a good, solid cheese, and you all know that sour whey will eat or digest grease from any substance containing it, with which it comes in contact. The longer the curd is exposed to this acidity in the whey the slimier the whey becomes, on account of the grease it has taken from the curd, and, in fact, some cheese-makers determine when the curd is ready to dip into the sink by the sliminess or sudsing of the whey. The quantity of butter which passes ofi" unseen in the American system is certainly more than is contained in the small quantity of wJiite whey which comes from the cheese when pressing in the Cheddar system. " During the past season, notwithstanding the general complaint that the milk did not yield well, and the fact that over half of the cheese made at Smith Creek Factory was from tainted milk, we used only 9 9-lOths pounds of milk for one pound of cured cheese. And the reason why the Cheddar . cheese will appear more rich and buttery, with the same solidity, is that when the whey is drawn from the curd before the acid is detected, the action of the sour milk spores is retarded, and the rennet, at work in the mass of warm curd, is allowed full play. And, as the rennet cures the cheese, it will there- fore cure sooner, and, curing sooner, will be richer and more buttery at the same age." HERKIMER COUNTY " FANCY FACTORY CHEESE." As the manner of making a high-priced cheese is always of interest to manufacturers, I give some of the leading features at a few fancy factories where " gilt-edged" cheese is made. The processes are those adopted in 1870. At the North Fairfield Factory, the temperature of milk in the morning is 56°. The night's milk is cooled by passing a stream of water between the* vats and underneath the milk vat. Rennet is added for coagulating when the Practical Dairy Husbandry. 463 milk has been raised to a temperature of 84°. After coagulation is perfected the curds are cut first with the horizontal curd-knife, which leaves the mass in thin sheets. Then follow with the perpendicular knife, cutting lengthwise of the vat. Let the curds now stand ten minutes, or until the whey forms; when the curds are cut with the perpendicular knife across the vat. The breaking having been perfected, heat is begun to be gradually applied and is continued until the mass reaches a temperature of 98°, the time occu- pied being one and a-half hours or thereabouts. It is regarded of great importance to heat slowly, and care is taken that tlie increase in temperature in all parts of the heating process is regular and gradual. Sour whey is not usually employed, as it is preferred that the acid be developed in heating. The curds are taken out of the vat into, the sink at 90° — the acid having been developed — and they are left exposed in the sink to cool. If acid has by chance been carried too far in the vat, cold water is conducted between the vats, under the curds .to cool them rapidly. It is preferred, however, to cool the curds by exposing them to the air, as they are spread out in the sink. When the curds have been cooled down to a temperature of from 75° to 80°, and also ai"e thoroughly drained of whey; they are salted in summer at the rate of 2 9-lOths pounds of salt to one hundred pounds of green cheese, and for September about a tenth of a pound less salt. If the milk in hot weather is not all right, or if tainted, particular attention is given to have the curds exjDosed a long time to the atmosphere. The temperature of the curing-room is kept at 70°, or as near that point as possible. In May the average quantity of milk for a pound of cured cheese was 9 37-lOOths pounds; in June, 9 3-lOths pounds, and in July 9 7-1 Oths pounds. The cheese on hand at the time of my visit, were meaty, solid and of unifoi'm fine flavor. The factory is convenient in its arrangements, but the building is very plain and cheap in appearance. The factory of the Norway Association receives the milk from four hun- dred cows, and careful attention is given among patrons to deliver clean, sweet milk. An agitator is kept moving in the night's milk, and the temper- ature of the water is reduced with ice, so that the night's milk will stand in the morning at a temperature of 60°. Mr. James, the manufacturer, sets the milk for coagulation at 84°, and during the pi'oeess of scalding 98° is the highest temperature employed. The best factory filled salt is used in spring at the rate of two and a-half pounds to one hundred of curd ; in summer the salt is three pounds, and in fall two and seven-tenths pounds. As at other factories where high-priced cheese is made, the heating process is very slow and gradual, requiring from one and a-quarter to one and a-half hours. Great attention is paid to the development of the acid, and Mr. James attributes his success to the faculty of distinguishing the proper con- dition of the curds in this respect, and to their exposure to the atmosphere in the sink until properly matured. Of course these peculiar conditions of the curds cannot be described in words, but must be learned by experience. 464 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Mr. James says he likes to develop the acid " sharp " through Juue, July and August, but in fall not so much. As soon as it can be detected in the vats the whey is immediately withdrawn, and as I have before remarked the appliance of the shute is here of service in taking immediate advantao-e for regulating this condition of the curds. The cheese at this factory are pressed in fourteen and a-half inch hoops, weigh about sixty pounds each. Tliey are slightly colored. At the time of my visit fifteen cheeses were being made daily. The highest receipts of milk during the season were ten thousand j^ounds, which made eighteen and a-half cheeses daily. THE " COARSE CURBS " PROCESS is followed at the Cold Creek Factory, and whatever diifej-ence of opinion there may be as to the merits of this process, it is just to say that the cheese shows it to be a success. I saw the Cold Creek brand in England in 1866, and heard dealers express their opinion that it was among the best of the American factories. Since that time, if measured by the test of prices at home, the process, at least in Mr, Hopson's hands, must be considered a success. What is claimed in the coarse curds process, is the production of cheese, solid yet mellow in texture, having a sweet, nutty or new milk flavor, or as the trade expresses it, " clean flavored ;" and finally, a better retention of the butteraneous matter of the milk, than in the ordinary course of manufacture. The theory of the coarse curds is, that the less the cutting or agitation of the curds while in a soft state the more butter you retain, hence the curds are cut or broken no moi'e than is absolutely necessary, while the stirring is of the gentlest kind, and just sufiicient to keep the mass from clinging together. Mr. HopsoN sets the milk for coagulation at 80°, using a sufiicient quantity of rennet to thoroughly coagulate the mass fit for the knife in an hour. Then he commences cutting with a gang of steel blades, lengthwise of the vat, going through once. The mass is now left at rest from ten to twenty minutes, until the whey begins to rise. Then a four-bladed knife (with blades three-fourths of an inch apart) is used for the cross-cutting. It is set at an angle of 45° with the bottom of the vat, and run through the mass crosswise of the vat. Then if there is likely to be no immediate change in the whey, the mass is left at rest for ten or fifteen minutes, and the knife used again across the vat, the operator standing on the side opposite to where he stood for the previous cutting. Inexperienced cheese-makers, or those who do not understand tlie philosophy of cheese-making, advise that all the cutting be done as quickly as possible, and if an instrument could be made for the purpose, would prefer that all the cutting should be done instantaneously. This is evidently inju- dicious, as the whey forms slowly, and a complete division of curds at once in their tender condition cannot be efiected without liberating the oily parti- cles, and thus causing Avaste. Such cutting is admissible only when acidity is progressing rapidly, and all parts of the process require to be hastened. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 465 lu the coarse curd process, the cutting having been performed as just described, it completes what is understood by " breaking " — for no other division or breaking up of the particles is deemed necessary. Heat is now begun to be applied very slowly, and the mass is stirred in the gentlest manner possible, and no more than to prevent the curds from running or clinging together. Great attention is paid to careful handling in this part of the pro- ^cess, in order that none of the buttery particles be pressed out, the theory being to let the curds do their own work as far as possible. The time of heating up is usually about an hour or an hour and a-quarter, the mass being raised to 100°. After heating, the cm-ds are only stirred occasionally to pre- vent matting, and the mass remains in the vats till the acid is propeiiy devel- oped. Mr. Hopsoisr depends for the most part upon the sense of smell in determining the degree of acidity required, and with long practice and good judgment in this respect, he is able to time operations so as to manage his curds with great uniformity. The curds are now thrown into the sink to be exposed to the atmosphere, where they are stiiTed, and when properly cooled down and the acidity carried to the exact point desired, salt is applied. THE SALTING during the summer is at the rate of three and a-half pounds salt to one hundred pounds curd, and it is thoroughly and evenly incorporated with the curds. In spring and up to the 10th of May three and a-quarter pounds salt is the rate. No sour whey is used except that employed for soaking the rennets. The curds when ready to salt, aj^pear to be in particles about the size of chestnuts. They have a very nice look and feel, being what cheese- makers term " lively." Although this is an old factory tlie buildings are in good repair, clean and sweet, with neat suiTOundings. The size of the dairy-house is thirty by one hundred feet, and the manufactory, which is a separate structure, thirty-six by thirty-six feet. Milk is delivered from five hundred and fifty cows. Ordi- narily the cheese is pressed in fifteen and a-half inch hoops, and will weigh sixty-five pounds each. The factory is supplied with an abundance of pure spring Avater of a temperature of about 52''. In summer a stream of water is kept flowing under the night's milk in the vats, and the milk is stirred also during the night with Austin's agitator. On the 8th of September, 1869, Mr. Hopson had an order for one hun- dred large cheeses, eighty colored and twenty .white. The order was com- pleted on the 12th of October. These cheeses weighed three hundred and thirty pounds each, and a handsomer lot could not well be got together. I tested a large number of cheeses in the curing-room, and found them uniformly very meaty, and of clean and delicate flavor. Something of their character may be indicated from the fact that twenty-two cents per pound was offered by a purchaser in our presence for the lot of large cheese, the highest market rates at Little Falls at that time being nineteen cents. 30 466 Practical Dairy Husbandry. About two miles east of Salisbury Center is another " fancy factory," the " Herkimer County," or " Avery & Ives " — giving tlie name of the proprie- tors. This is an old factory, and the manufacturer, Mr. E. B. Fairchild has been here seven years. Mr. Fairchild is, without doubt, one of the best cheese manufacturers in the State. His cheese stands high amono- the " fan- cies." He follows the coarse curds process, though not precisely in the steps of Mr. HopsoN. His cheese is very solid, meaty and fine-flavored. An old cheese-dealer and noted expert remarked to me, on the day of my visit, that probably nothing finer could be found in the State than the lot of cheese then on the shelves at the Avery & Ives factory. The factory takes the milk of six hundred cows, and the receipts on October 23d were five thousand pounds, and made into nine cheeses, which weighed sixty-five pounds each ; in shape, Cheddars, being pressed in fourteen and a-half inch hoops. The establishment is in two buildings, the making department being thirty by thirty feet, and the dry house one hundred by thirty-six feet, two stories high. The milk is set at 80°, the highest heat in scalding 100°. The curds are cut coarse, somewhat similar to Mr, Hopson's at Cold Creek, and the time of heating and extreme care in handling the curds are also similar; but the salting is not so high, the rate in summer being three pounds, and in fall two and eight-tenths pounds salt to one hun- dred pounds curd. Mr. Fairchild thinks the fine texture of his cheese results in a great measure from having the milk in perfect condition at the commencement of operations and then employing heat slowly, manijjulating the curds in the gentlest manner, and finally, accuracy in developing the degree of acidity. During cool weather in the fall, sour whey is added with the rennet to the milk, at the rate of two pails whey for four hundred gallons of milk. He thinks coarse curds make a more meaty cheese and produce a larger quan- tity of cheese from a given quantity of milk than fine curds. Acid is devel- oped in the vat with the whey rather than in the sink, and from long practice and close watching, he is able to detect the changes from time to time very accurately. The practice at other factories might be given, but these described will suffice, it is believed, for all practical pui-poses. making cheese prom a small number of cows. If there happen to be three or four neighbors similarly situated, that is, each having but two or three cows, it will be a good plan for all to join together, delivering a certain quantity of milk daily at some central neigh- bor's house, where the cheese is to be made. There will be no very great trouble in this, and by assisting each other, all may be supplied. As the labor in manufacture will be no more for ten pails of milk than for four, and as the cheese can then be made up at once, it will be advisable to associate together whenever practicable. Ten pails of milk will make say twenty-five gallons, and the twenty-five Practical Dairy Husbaxdry. 467 gallons will give a cheese of twenty pounds, and perhaps a trifle over. If the milk is worked in the manner I have described, the curds may be pressed in a hoop eleven inches in diameter and about the same hight. Small cheeses of this kind need not be bandaged. After coming from the hoop, they should be oiled over with a little fresh butter to prevent the rind from checking, and may be placed upon the shelf. They will need turning every day, giving the surface a smart rubbing with the hand, which will prevent the cheese flies from securing a safe deposit of their eggs. If the rind of the cheese gets dry, it will be well to oil again with fresh butter. If j^roperly cared for the cheese will begin to be mellow in four or five weeks, and will be eatable, though age will improve it, and when six months old it should be of delicious flavor and quality if well made. DOUBLE CUEDS. But if the quantity of milk is too small to make a curd for one pressing, then resort may be had to what is termed double curds. These are managed after the following manner : The milk is .treated precisely as if there was sufficient for a cheese. After the curds have been drained and slightly salted and are ready for the hoop, they are set aside in a cool place in the cellar until next day. Then, after the next curds are ready, the previous day's curds are treated with warm whey, so that they may be broken up, when they are drained and the two days'' curds are thoroughly mingled together and salted. They are then put to press, and will unite together the same as if they had been a " one day's cheese." I have seen some most excellent cheese made in tliis way, cheese as fine in flavor and quality as one could wish to see. Sometimes curds are kept in this way three days, or more, until a sufficient quantity has accumulated to make a cheese of the desired size. In this way cheese can be made when only one cow is kept. GRAFTING THE CURDS. There is another way of managing the curds, called grafting. As soon as the curds are ready they are put to press. The next day the hoop is taken oflf and a thin scale taken from the top of the cheese with a sharp knife, and the fresh surface made rough with a fork. The top rind and the upper edges being pared off" the parings are broken up and warmed by the addition of whey. They are then mingled Avith the new curds and placed in the hoop on top of the previous day's cheese and put to press. The two days' curds will adhere, and in this way small quantities of milk may be utilized in cheese- making. Grafted cheese should always be bandaged, for unless the whey is very thoroughly drained from the curds, the two sections or grafts sometimes will not adhere so firmly as the parts where they are not joined. It is a good plan in grafting cheese, after paring off" the rind as I have described, to cut across the cheese two or three times, taking out a small triangular strip. Some people after paring the rind and cutting across as above, make the 468 Practical Dairy Husbandry. upper surface also rough by scraping with the point of a knife or fork, Tliis is done for the purpose of giving the new curds a stronger hold on those of the previous day. MAKIJ^G CHEESE WITHOUT PKOPEE APPAKATUS AND PIXTUKES. Sometimes the farmer who keeps only a few cows to supply his family with milk and butter, would like also to make a few cheeses for family use ; he does not care to make cheese to sell, and therefore hardly feels able to purchase cheese apparatus and fit up a dairy-house after the most approved models ; this he thinks would cost more than to purchase his supply of cheese in the market. But it often happens that where this state of things exists, the money cannot be spared for buying cheese, and so this luxury is dis- pensed with at the family table. Let us see now, how cheaply we can arrange for a primitive dairy. If nothing better is at hand, a common wash-tub, clean and sweet, will answer the pui'pose for setting the milk and working the curds. A hoop must be had from the cooper. Let it be ten inches in diameter, top and bottom, by twelve inches high, and fitted with a follower. A PRIMITIVE PRESS. A very good press may be made in a few hours from a twelve-foot plank, and a few pieces of scantling. About a foot from either end of the plank THE OLD-FASHIONED LOS CHEESB PRESS. set up two short pieces of scantling four and a-half inches apart. Fasten them firmly to the plank with bolts or pins. The lever may be a joist, four by four, or four by six, and fourteen feet long. One end is secured by a pin passing through the uprights at one end of the plank, and it is to move freely up and down between the uprights at the other end. A weight hung at one end of the lever and you have a press that will do good service. The weights at the end of the long lever are a stone or two from the field. There may be another lever arranged for raising the long lever or press-beam, without removing the weights, which are stationary. We give an illustration of an old-fashioned log press. The hoop is placed near the stationary end of the press-beam, and blocks put upon the follower, the press-beam let down upon them, and in this way the cheese is pressed. A long, thin wooden knife will do for cutting the curds. A gallon of good milk (wine measure) will make nearly a pound of cheese. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 469 the process. Your milk having been placed in the tub, and the number of gallons known, a portion may be taken out and heated in pans over a common stove. The pan holding the milk should be set in another pan holding water or over a kettle containing water, so as not to scorch or burn the milk in the pan. Heat the milk and pour into the tub, till the mass indicates a temperature of 85*. Then add a quantity of rennet (which has been previously prepared by steeping the dry skins or rennet in water), sufficient to coagulate the milk, say in forty or fifty minutes. Now put your finger into the curd, raise it slowly, and if it readily splits apart the mass is ready to cut into blocks with the curd knife. After cutting into checks two inches square, let it remain at rest ten to fifteen minutes for the whey to form. Then carefully break with the hands by lifting up the curds very gently, and when the mass has been gone over, let it rest for ten or fifteen minutes for the curd to subside. Now dip oif a portion of the whey into the pans, and heat on the stove in the same manner that the milk was warmed. In the meantime continue breaking, by gently lifting the curd, until the particles of curd are about the size of small chestnuts or large beans. Then pour in the warm whey and continue heating and adding the warm whey until the mass indicates a tem- perature of 98°. Do not be in a hurry, but take things leisurely, continuing the breaking or stirring the curds while heat is being applied. It may noAV be left at rest for half an hour and then stirred, so that the particles may not pack or adhere together in the tub, and this treatment continued until the curd has a firm consistency. Take up a handful and press it together in the hand, and if on opening the hand it readily falls to pieces, it is about ready for draining. Throw a cloth strainer over the tub and dip ofi" the whey down to the curd. Then put the strainer on a willow clothes basket and dip the curd into it to drain. It may now be broken up with the hands, and when pretty dry may be salted in the basket or returned to the tub for salting. Salt at the rate of four to four and a-half ounces of salt to ten pounds curd; mix it thoroughly and put to press. After remaining from two to four hours in press, turn and put to press again, leaving it under pressure till next morning, when it may be removed to the shelf. Very small cheeses need not be bandaged. They should be rubbed over with a little fresh butter, melted and applied warm, or with oil made from the cream that rises from the whey. They should be turned and rubbed daily until well ripened. THE CHEESE ELY. Most dairymen understand pretty well the habits of the cheese fly ; many, however, do not understand how to provide against its depredations. Some people profess to be fond of a skippery cheese, and regard it as an index of what the English understand as a "cheese full of meat" — that is, rich in butter. And it must be confessed that the cheese fly has a great partiality for the best goods in the curing house. They do not so readily attack your 470 Practical Dairy Husbandry. " white oak " and skim milk varieties, hence the notion that cheese infested with the fly is rich in butter is not far out of the way. The primary cause of skippery cheese, of course, is want of care. Cheese in hot weather should be closely examined every day ; they require to be turned once a day to facilitate the curing process ; the bandages and sides are to be rubbed at the time of turning, in order to brush off or destroy any nits of the fly which may happen to be deposited about the cheese. If there are cracks in the rind, or if the edges of the bandage do not fit snugly, they should at once be attended to, since it is at these points that the fly is most likely to make a safe deposit of its eggs. riLLISTG UP THE CBACKS. The cracks and checks in the cheese should be filled up with particles of cheese that have been crushed under a knife to make them mellow and plastic. When once filled, a strip of thin, tough paper, oiled and laid over the repaired surface will serve as a further protection of the parts. The cheese in the checks soon hardens and forms a new rind. Deep and bad looking checks may be repaired in this way, so as to form a smooth surface, scarcely to be dis- tinguished from the sound parts of the cheese. It is a great mistake to send cheese that have deep checks or broken rinds to market ; for in addition to their liability to be attacked by the fly, they have the appearance of being imperfect, and are justly regarded Avith suspicion. CUKING-KOOM KOT TO BE DARK. Some dairymen think that a darkened curing-room is best for cheese, and at the same time is the best protection against the fly ; I think this is a mis- take ; cheese cures with the best flavor when it is exposed to light, and besides, it can be examined more minutely from time to time and freed from any depredation of the skipper. August and September are generally the worst months in the year to protect cheese against the attacks of the fly. Some years the trouble is greater than others, and various means have been resorted to for the purpose of avoiding the pest, such as rubbing the cheese over with a mixture of oil and cayenne pepper, &c. These things generally do not amount to much, and are not to be recommended ; the best protection is cleanliness, sharp eyes and a good care of the cheese. Whenever a lodge- ment of skippers has been made they must at once be removed ; sometimes it will be necessary to cut into the cheese and remove the nest with a knife, but if the colony is young and small in numbers, a thick oiled paper, plastered over the affected part so as to exclude the air, will bring the pests to the surface, when they may be removed ; the oiled paper should again be returned to its place and the skippers removed from time to time till all ai-e destroyed. WASHING THE TABLES AND EANGES. If skippers begin to trouble the cheese, the best course to be adopted is to commence at once and wash the ranges, or tables on which the cheese are Practical Dairy Husbandry. 471 placed, with hot whey ; this will remove all accumulation of grease or nits about the ranges, giving a clean surface, which does not attract the flies. If the cheese also is washed in the hot whey and rubbed with a dry cloth, the labor of expelling the trouble from the curing-rooms will be greatly facilitated. Keep the curing-room clean and sweet ; see that the cheeses have a smooth rind, that the bandages are smoothly laid at the edges ; turn and rub the cheese daily, and there need be no trouble from the cheese fly. PAINTED CHEESE. There are several kinds of foreign fancy cheeses that are peculiar in having their sides painted with a dark brown or red color. The double Gloucester or North Wilts, the small loaf and truckle shapes, and the Edams, are of this character. In the old process of curing the double Gloucester the cheese is rubbed with finely powdered salt, and this is thought to make the cheese more smooth and solid than when the salting process is performed in the curd. After the cheese has been in the curing-room and turned every day for a month or so, it is cleaned of all scurf and rubbed with a woolen cloth, dipped in a paint made of Indian red, or Spanish brown and small beer. After the paint is dry the cheese is rubbed once a week with a cloth. The Edam or Dutch cheese is colored on the outside, when ready for market, with what is called tournesal, the juice of a plant {Croton tinctorium) which grows wild in France. Rags are saturated in this juice and then exposed to the vapor arising from lime mixed with urine, which gives them a violet color. The cheeses are rubbed over with these tournesal rags, which gives them the peculiar glowing red with which they appear in market. A friend, who makes small fancy cheeses in imitation of English, and which sell for a high price, makes a paint for coloring the rinds of the cheese of the following: — Sharp, sour whey, salt, Venetian red and burnt umber. The Venetian red and umber are added to the whey, so as to make a mixture of the consistency of paint and of the shade desired, and when the cheeses are ready for market the rinds are painted over and allowed to dry. He says that this mixture holds its place and color on the cheese without flaking off, and is altogether better than the English mixture made of beer and Indian red. No bandage is used upon cheese treated with this coloring matter. USE OF SALTPETEE. The use of saltpeter in cheese manufacture has been long employed in some of the dairy districts of England. It is claimed by those who use salt- peter for this purpose that it helps preserve the flavor of cheese, improving also the keeping qualities of the goods. I am unable to say how this may be, never having made any direct expei'iments in my own dairy as a test. Salt- peter is used extensively in curing meats, and most people understand some- thing of its effects when employed for this purpose. I do not understand that saltpeter has ever been used to any great extent in American cheese manu- facture, but I am informed by an old and distinguished cheese factory manager 472 Practical Dairy Husbandry. at Oneida that it has been used at his factory with the best results. The manner of preparing it for use is as follows: — Take from three to three and a-half pounds saltpeter and reduce it to a powder. This will be sufficient for one barrel of salt, best factory filled. Now spread the salt on a clean floor and sprinkle over with the powder as evenly as jDOSsible, and mix thoroughly by shoveling it over. It may then be repacked in the barrel and it is fit for use. When the curds are to be salted use the usual quantity by weight of the compound as you would of salt, if that alone was to be employed. I have seen small quantities of saltpeter added to salt for preserving butter with good results, and it is possible that saltpeter used for preserving cheese in the way described may be of some advantage. BAD FLAVOR. It is very difficult to point out the cause of bad flavor in cheese without seeing the cheese and knowing all the details in manufacture, together with the condition of jjastures, care of stock, water, &c. There are a great many things that affect flavor in cheese, and of all the months in the year June and July are the most trying to the cheese-maker. Much of the July cheese is often out of flavor, and manufacturers are often at a loss to account for it. Cheese that is well made will take on a taint and get out of flavor by being kept in a badly ventilated and ill-contrived curing-room. Cheese in curing needs air and a uniform temperature not higher than 15'^. Some cheese- rooms are excessively warm and close in hot weather, and the fermenting or curing powers are carried on too rapidly. Scurfy cheese show that there has been fault in manufacture. If it pro- ceeds from whey oozing out, forming a kind of gummy, sticky substance on the sides, the curds have not been properly matured in the vat. The cheese when taken from the press to the table ought not to leak whey. Sometimes a mold or scurf forms on cheese from damp weather, when the cheese is not properly rubbed daily. The scurf should be removed and the cheese " slicked up " before sending to market. POISON CHEESE. During a visit to St. Lawrence county a prominent cheese dealer of that county called my attention to a case of cheese poisoning which had come under his observation : — A lot of cheese had been purchased from a dairyman of that county by the dealer referred to, and having been shipped by him and placed upon the market, a complaint was instituted that the cheese proved to be poisonous. No deaths, it is true, came from eating the cheese, but the persons who ate of it were taken suddenly ill with pains and cramps and excessive vomiting, showing evident indications that they had been poisoned. It was an easy matter of course to trace the source of this illness to the cheese of a particular daii-y, and immediately a thorough investigation was inaugurated to discover the origin of the trouble. On an examination of the dairy where the cheese was made nothing unusual was found in the manner Practical Dairy Husbandry. 473 of manufacture, or in the appliances used in cheese making. The cheese had been made in the ordinary tin vat, and all the processes of manufacture were similar to those in common practice in the country. Due regard had been exercised as to cleanliness ; no known poisons had been employed about the premises, and it had become evident to the parties investigating that the poison, if any, in the cheese, must have come from the salt, the annatto, or in some way of which the cheese maker or his family were not cognizant, or indeed to be blamed. Samples of the cheese were also forwarded to Prof. jACKSoisr of Boston for analysis ; and having been submitted to a rigid examination by this emi- nent chemist, the opinion was further confirmed that the dairyman was blameless in the matter. Dr. Jackson states in regard to the analysis of this cheese as follows : — " Each and all of the samples were entirely free from any tone poisons. There are no metal or mineral poisons of the kind present, nor any alkaloids or deleterious vegetable princij^les. But there is a small pro- portion of offensive putrefying animal matter wliich has been separated here that does not belong to good clieese. It is impossible to give this impurity any correct name, and it is only an opinion of mine that it comes from the rennet used. It is not poisonous, although it occasions vomiting in dogs and cats, and small portions of it may be taken into the human stomach with- out effect." The facts elicited in this analysis of Dr. Jackson correspond in some respects with those discovered a few years since by Dr. Voelckee, and from which it would appear that cheese, as Avell as other kinds of animal food, under certain conditions of decay, generates a peculiar organic poison ; but what the composiiion of this virulent poison is the chemists are as yet unable to determine. Dr. Voelckeb stated to me that instances had come under his observation where this poison in cheese had become dissipated as the cheese passed into a further state of fermentation and decomposition, and that the cheese could then be safely eaten, producing no injurious or unpleasant effects. In his report upon this subject to the Royal Agricultural Society, a case is mentioned somewhat similar to that referred to in St. Lawrence county, and as it details more fully the nature of this peculiar poison than the statement of Dr. Jackson, it will be of interest perhaps to present it in this connection. Without going into a history of the particular dairy or the various cases of poisoning, it will be sufficient to say that quite a number of people were taken ill after partaking of the cheese, and that samples of the cheese causing the illness were forwarded to Dr. Voelcker for examination. This cheese, he says, presented nothing in appearance which could be regarded as an indi- cation of its spoiled condition or unwholesome quality. The taste was sharp, peculiar and quite different from the rich and pungent taste of well-ripened old cheese ; but it was not sufficiently characteristic of its unquestionably poisonous properties. He says : — " Having analyzed at different times cheese 474 Practical Dairy Husbandry. which produced bad effects when taken in any quantity, I cautioned my assistants not to take too much of it, and invited them to taste the cheese sent. Certain chemicals, which are sometimes put into cheese, can to a cer- tain extent be recognized by the peculiar taste which they impart. I tasted it myself, and although I took a piece only the size of a hazel nut, I felt its effects four hours after having tasted it. Both my assistants, who had taken no more at the most than a quarter of an ounce each, five hours afterward were violently attacked with vomiting and pain in the bowels ; one of them was ill all night, and scarcely able to follow his usual work next day. Both complained of a nasty mercurial taste, which seemed to remain with them for many hours after partaking of the cheese. " On a former occasion I found sulphate of zinc or white vitriol in a cheese which caused sickness, and in another instance I detected in cheese sul^^hate of coj)per. My attention, therefore, naturally was directed to search for metallic poisons ; but though carefully operating on large quantities, I failed to detect even traces of zinc, copper, mercury, antimony, arsenic, or any of the metallic poisons which might possibly have imparted injurious properties to the cheese. Having failed to detect any mineral poison I next directed my attention to the examination of the organic constituents : the quantitative general analysis gave the following results : Water 37.88 Organic constituents 58.04 Mineral 4.08 Total / 100.00 Containing salt 1.33 " The proportion of water in this cheese was rather large, considering that it must have been cut for some time, and have lost water by evaporation. On further examining it I found it remarkably sour, and had no difficulty in detecting an unusually large quantity of fatty acids, which if not poisonous themselves are the vehicle conveying the peculiar organic poison which appears to be generated sometimes in cheese undergoing a peculiar kind of fermentation. '^ Probably the poison generated in this modified decay of cheese is iden- tical with the so-called sausage poison, which is sometimes found in German sausages, especially those made of coagulated blood, A similar poison appears to be generated sometimes in pickled salmon, smoked sprats, pork, tainted veal, bacon and hams. Bacon and hams when not properly cured, and fat meat, kept in a damp, badly-ventilated cellar, are very apt to become more or less injurious to health, and even butter after it has turned rancid ; and similar organic matters are liberated in it, which exist in this cheese in a free state, acts as a poison in most cases. Singularly enough, some people are not affected by these subtle organic poisons. "The poison of cheese was known in Germany as long ago as 1820, and probably even earlier. A great deal has been written on the subject, but we Practical Dairy Husbandry. 475 are yet as far as ever from knowing the composition of this virulent poison." Dr. VoELCKEK further states that cases of poisoning by cheese, in which no mineral poison can be detected, occur much more frequently than is gene- rally supposed. And it appears that cheese kept in damp, badly-ventilated places, or where too much whey is left, or indeed, all the circumstances which tend to produce a too acid curd, and to generate fatty acids are apt to pro- duce this peculiar poison. Dr. VoELCKEE regrets that we have no means of detecting this invidious poison, which, in a great many cases, has produced fatal results ; and he remarks that, what is indeed strange, j^oisonous cheese of this character when kept until it becomes quite decayed loses its poisonous properties and becomes harmless. Poisonous cheese always exhibits a strong acid reaction when tested with litmus paper. A slight acid reaction marks all fresh cheese, but while the outside of good old cheese is ammoniacal, the outside of cheese in which this poison occurs is acid. SCHWEITZER KASE. The large element of foreign population now among us, and more espe- cially that from the German States, has introduced a demand for certain arti- cles which a few years ago were almost unknown in many parts of the country. It is but natural that foreign tastes should thus creep in upon us by degrees, and become more or less adopted by our native population. The Schweitzer Kase and Limberger cheese, a few years ago were imported, and perhaps are to some extent at the present time, but their manufacture now having been established in this country, there is no necessity for such importation. Such cheese can be made here of equal quality with the imported article, and can be afforded also at less cost. I have frequently had occasion to compare our Schweitzer Kase, or Swiss cheese with the foreign article, and in the presence of good judges, who pronounced the American quite equal in quality and peculiar flavor to the foreign manufacture. Swiss cheese when eaten before it has acquired that strong, rank flavor which is deemed essential, or at least seems to suit the taste of a majority of foreigners, is very palatable, and many Americans who have been accustomed to eat of it, grow fond of it, and prefer it to our best grades of Cheddars. A few years since I visited a factory in Oneida Co., erected for the pur- pose of making Swiss cheese, and \vhere a very superior article was produced. The manager here was a Swiss cheese-maker, and the arrangements and machinery of the establishment were after the most approved Swiss pattern. In the proper curing of Swiss cheese a room in which a low, even tempera- ture can be secured is requisite, hence a cellar basement of stone is deemed important for a good curing-room. The factory referred to was erected for manufacturing milk from about two hundred cows. The building is about 476 Practical Dairy Husbandry. eighty-four feet long by thirty-four feet broad, and is placed upon a side-hill so as to have a stone basement or cellar, some eight feet high and extending under the entire upper structure, which is of wood. The cheeses are pressed in two sizes — the one thirty-two inches, and the other twenty-eight inches in diameter, but both are uniformly but five and a-half inches thick. The larger-sized cheese will weigh when cured some- where near a hundred pounds, and the curing process will require at least three months. The milk is made up fresh from the cow, that is, the morning's and even- ing's mess separately. As soon as the morning's milk is received it is turned into a large copper kettle, hanging upon a crane which swings over the fire in a broad, old-fashioned fire-place. When the temperature of the milk indi- cates 81® the rennet is added. After the milk has coagulated a circular wire- breaker attached to a long handle is introduced, the curd broken up, and the whole mass stirred with the breaker. The kettle is now swung over the fire and the stirring kept up until the mass indicates a temperature of 120° to 125°, when it is moved back on the crane from the fire into the room, and the stirring continued for half an hour longer, or until the curd is sufficiently cooked. This is indicated by its firm and elastic condition, similar to curd properly " cooked " in ordinary cheese-making. A cloth strainer is now introduced under the curd, the ends of the cloth brought together, when the mass is lifted out of the kettle, leaving the whey behind. It is then immediately put to press and remains in press about two hours, when it is taken out of press and plunged in cold water. Here it remains for two hours or more, or until thoi'oughly cooled, when it is returned again to the press, where it remains four or five hours. In pressing, light, adjustable hoops, made of thin strips of elm wood, are used. They are arranged with cords upon the ends, so that the size of the hoop may be contracted or expanded at pleasure. On removing the cheese from the press to the curing-room, these hoops are kept upon the cheese, and serve in l-ieu of bandages. No salt is used in the curd at the time of making as is usual in other styles of cheese, but the salt is applied in the curing-room ; here dry salt in small quantities is daily sprinkled over the cheese during the space of three months, and after that they are treated with salt every other day. Every two or three days during the curing process the cheeses are washed with brine, which serves to remove any mold that may be inclined to form or adhere to the rinds. These are briefly the main features in the process. The cheese, while curing, appears to be more elastic, and will not readily break and fall to pieces as that made in the ordinary way. When well made they are mellow and rich, and of a sweet, delicate flavor if eaten before they acquire age. They are quite porous, which is esteemed a mark of good quality. After getting age they are apt to take on a peculiar rank flavor, which nevertheless is regarded as delicious by those who have acquired a taste for it. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 477 Good Swiss clieese usua,lly brings an advanced price over the best grades of factory cheese as usually manufactured, which, I suppose, is on account of the small quantity made, and the supply being kept within the demand. PINE-APPLE CHEESE. So far as the manipulation of milk, and the treatment of curds are con- cerned, the making of pine-apple cheese does not differ materially from that of cheese commonly made at factories. The diamond-like impressions on the rind, by which it is made to resemble somewhat, the scales on the pine-apple fruit, are produced by the meshes of the net in which the cheese is sustained to cure. The main features in the manufacture consist of the molds and nets which give the desired shape and appearance to this style of cheese. The molds are capable of holding from six to ten pounds of curd. The mold is formed of four scantling, four or five inches square, by scooping out "one corner of each in the right shape, and placing them together. The tim- bers are long enough to alloAV a neck six or seven inches long, and three or more in diameter, to be grooved from the same corners, and when they are put together the curd is put into the mold through this neck, the neck also being filled with curd pressed in. The separate pieces of timber are bolted firmly together two and two, thus leaving it in two parts. These two parts are held firmly together by a hoop of strap iron tightened by wedges. When the cheese is to be taken out, the wedges are loosened, the hoop slipped ofi" and the mold taken apart. The pressure is applied by any press, provided with a follower that will fit the neck, into which it is forced, and the whey escapes at the joining of the molds, which open a little by the pressure. The cheese-cloth is used the same as in the common hoop, though it should be pressed hard for a while to obliterate the impressions of the folds in the cloth. The follower should be a little concave at the bottom and force the curd down to a level with the curd in the mold. The whey should be entirely removed, and the cheese rendered as compact as possible. To eifect this a follower sharpened in the form of a bodkin at the lower end, long enough to reach near the bottom of the mold, should be forced into the cheese immediately after the curd has been somewhat compacted by the follower, and the orifice filled up with new curd, if there is not enough already in the mold to fill it. After it has remained in press a sufficient length of time it is removed, and a net is placed upon it similar to a cabbage net, knit with meshes half to three-fourths of an inch square, when they are suspended by the tightening cord to hooks driven into the wall or other place for the purpose. "When thoroughly dried they should be smeared with sweet whey butter. After hanging long enough to get their shape confirmed, the net is removed and they are set upon the large end upon trenchers until perfectly cured. During the whole process of curing they are to be rubbed as often as necessary to give them a fair skin and keep away insects. 1 478 Practical Dairy Husbandry. The molds are sometimes made of blocks of oak timber, about twenty- inches long and ten inches square. They are sawed lengthwise through the middle, and each half is carved or worked out in the shape of a pine-apple one-half in each part. Then a groove is cut about two and a-half inches i diameter, for passing the curd into the mold. Some manufacturers, after taking the cheese from tlie press, trim them,' and then put on the nets, hanging the cheese for a short tim.e in water of 120°. This is to soften the rind, that they may the better receive the impres- sion of the net, which is done by taking them from the water while enveloped in the nets, placing them in a frame and straining the nets tightly over them by means of screws. They are then hung up as before described, to harden, and finally, are set on shelves having suitable hollows or concavities for the cheese to rest upon. The nets are made from flax twine, and will last seve- ral years. The labor and trouble of making pine-apple cheese is so much, that a large price must be obtained in order to make its manufacture a paying business. STILTON CHEESE. Cheese of this character at present is of no commercial importance to American dairymen. Still it is possible small quantities may in time be made for home consumption. Stilton is made from the morning's mess of milk, to which has been added the cream of the night's milk, in proportion of a quart of cream for every ten quarts of milk. The milk and cream having been nicely mingled together, is set for coagulation in a small tub in which there has been previously arranged a linen strainer. The mass is set in the ordi- nary way with rennet, and when coagulation is perfected the curd is cut across in large checks, and without further breaking, is lifted gently into a willow basket for the whey to escape. No heat, except the natural heat as it comes from the cow, is used during the process. After the whey has sepa- rated from the curd in the basket, as described above, the curd is carefully placed in a hoop, and is then turned every three hours, say four or five times during the day. No pressure is applied except its own weight, and it remains in the hoop without cloth or bandage, being turned from day to day, as before described, until sufficiently consolidated to hold together, when it is taken out, and a bandage pinned about it, and then it goes upon the shelf to cure. The hoop is seven inches in diameter and eight inches high; it is pierced with holes, and it has two little followers fitting above and below the cheese, each pierced with holes for the escape of the whey. Two " setters " or covers with rims are also provided and pierced with holes, so that in turn- ing the cheese all that is needed is to change ends without taking the cheese from the hoop. No salt is used in the curds— its application being from the outside after the cheese is taken from the hoop. The cheese is kept at a tem- perature of about 70° for some time, and then is placed in a warm room for the development of the blue mold, which is considered of prime importance. Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 479 improving hard, dry cheese. When a cheese which has been much salted and kept very dry, is washed several times in soft water, and then laid in a cloth moistened with wine or vinegar, it gradually loses its saltness, and from being hard and dry, becomes soft and mellow, provided it be rich cheese. This simple method of improv- ing cheese is worth knowing. It is generally practiced in Switzerland, where cheeses are kept stored for many years, and if they were not very salt and dry they would soon be the prey of worms and mites. A dry Stilton cheese may thus be much improved. COTTAGE, OR DUTCH CHEESE. • Cottage cheese is in some sections called Dutch cheese or curds. It is the curd of sour milk drained from the whey, pressed into balls or molded in small fancy shapes, and eaten when fresh, or soon after it is made. Some people are very fond of Dutch cheese or curds, and the process of manufac- ture is so simple and so well known, that we suppose every " good house- wife " is well posted in regard to its making. The milk is allowed to sour and become loppered or thick, when it is gently heated, which facilitates the separation of the whey. The curds are then gathered up, salted, or otherwise, to suit the taste, and pressed in small molds, or formed with the hand into suitable shape, when it is ready for the table and may be used immediately. In cool weather, when milk does not readily thicken, the sour milk may be put in a suitable vessel set in hot water over the range. The milk is then stirred for a few minutes, when the whey will begin to separate, and it is removed, and another batch may be treated in the same manner. In summer some use large cans, having a spiggot near the bottom; the sour milk is placed in these cans, and allowed to stand in the sun to thicken. The heat of the sun will be sufficient to separate the whey, which may then be drawn off through the spiggot. The curds are then removed to "a sink having a slatted bottom, over which a strainer cloth is placed. The curds thrown upon this strainer cloth are soon drained of the whey, when it is ready to be pressed into balls with the hand, or molded into forms. Sometimes this kind of cheese is potted and left to decompose, and when it has acquired a strong, villainous smell, it is regarded as most delicious by those who have acquired a taste for eating it in this state. In some markets, cottage or Dutch cheese finds a ready sale, and quite a profit is made by cer- tain butter-makers, in turning their sour milk into this product. POPULAR WEIGHTS, BOXING FOR MARKET, ETC., ETC. I have referred, in another place, to the Cheddar shapes as the most popu- lar for export. Cheese weighing from forty to sixty-five pounds are on the whole the sizes most commonly made at the factories. For home consump- tion the growing feeling is for smaller cheeses than those above-named. A cheese of thirty pounds weight is a very desirable size for our home trade. 480 Practical Dairy Husbandry. It is true the cost of manufacture may be greater, and the shrinkage is more, still the consumer can afford to pay a better price for small-sized cheeses, because of their convenience and less waste from decay and drying, incident to large cheese, which must remain a longer time on hand before being consumed. In boxing cheese, whether for export or the home trade, the greatest care should be taken to have the packages well made, and wuth an extra band on the lower edge. Cheese should never be sent to market until they have properly ripened, and then they shoiild be placed in boxes that fit — boxes that slip down easily over the cheese, but not so large as to allow " shaking," or a movement from one side to the other in the box, nor in so small a package as to prevent their being readily removed from the package M'ithout breaking it. Good, substantial scale-boards should be placed on both sides of the cheese, and no other material is so well adajDted to the purpose where cheese is to be exported, or is to remain some time in the package during its transit to market. For short distances heavy straw paper may be used, but care should be taken not to pack with newspaper, as the moisture from the cheese will reduce it to a pulp, giving the cheese a very bad appearance on removal from the box. When the cheese is in place the sides of the package should come ujd just even with the top surface of the cheese. If it is below this surface the cheese will be liable to be broken and marred about the edges. If the rim of the box be a little higher than the cheese, it should be trimmed down after the cheese is in the box with a sharp drawing-knife, and then covers that fit closely should be adjusted. Sometimes the boxes are very imperfectly made, with, loose-fitting covers that are liable to fall off in rolling the cheese from the scales, or in moving from place to place. In such cases the covers are sometimes tacked in place with nails, but when nails are used,. care should be taken that they do not reach through the wood and into the cheese. The boxes should be neatly branded with the name of the factory, or if from farm dairies with the name of the dairyman, and for this purpose stencil plates are most convenient, while the lettering makes a neater appeai'ance than when the names are burned on with branding-irons. BUTTER MANUFACTURE. The question of butter-making has now become one of great importance. In my tour through Great Britain I took some pains to examine this subject, and comj)are butter-making abroad with our new system as inaugurated in Orange County, N. Y. The system has proved a great success, is being rapidly introduced in new districts, and has attracted attention not only in this country, but in Europe. There is no people, perhaps, on the face of the earth more fastidious about their food than the better classes in London. Possessed of immense wealth, they pay liberally for extra qualities of food, particularly the products of the dairy. Good butter they will have at any cost. Their finest grades come from the continent — Normandy, Holstein and the Channel Islands. It is worth from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty shillings per hundred weight, or say about thirty cents gold per pound, wholesale, while Canadian, the only butter imported from America, sells for fifty-four to ninety shillings per hundred weight, and Irish extra, from one hundred and eight to one hundred and twelve shillings per hundred weight. Their best butter formerly came from Ireland, but the complaint now is, that Irish butter is too salt, and lacks the delicate flavor and aroma of that which comes from the continent. Irish butter is usually packed in stout oak firkins, securely headed. Normandy and Holstein butter is in small pack- ages, flaring at the top, resembling the Orange County tub. It is excellent in flavor and texture, very slightly salted, and of a rich golden color. In England I saw butter made for the Queen's table, at the Royal Dairy, near Windsor Castle. The milk is set in porcelain pans, resting on marble tables. The walls, the ceiling and the floor of the milk room are of china, and the arrangements for ventilation are the best that can be devised. Fountains of water are constantly playing on all sides of the room, which helps to maintain an even temperature. The churn is of tin and the butter is worked with two thin wooden paddles. The whole establishment, from the milk-room to the stables, is the most perfect specimen of neatness that can be imagined. I need not say that the butter is excellent. 31 482 Practical Dairy Husbandry. Cream of average richness, according to the analysis of Dr. Voelckek, contains in one hundred parts : Water, 64.80 Butter (pure fatty uialters), 25 . 40 Caseine and milk sugar, 7. 61 Mineral matters (ash), 2. 19 100.00 He says, that on an average one quart of good cream yields from thirteen to fifteen ounces commercial butter. Occasionally cream is very rich ; thus Mr. HoESBFALL statcs that a quart of cream in his dairy yielded one pound of butter when the cows were out to grass, and no less than twenty-two to twenty-four ounces when the cows were fed in the barn with rape cake and other substances rich in oil. The first portions of cream which rise are always thin, but rich in fat, a fact that is explained by the circumstance that during milking and the subse- quent agitation to which milk is exposed, a portion of the milk globules get broken ; in consequence of which their light fatty contents, liberated from the denser caseine shells, rise to the surface with greater facility, and then occupy less room than the unbroken milk globules, which, on account of their specific gravity, are more sluggish in rising. Generally speaking, cream yields more butter when its bulk in proportion to that of the milk from which it is taken is small, and vice versa. The leading principles to be observed in butter-making, are cleanliness and temperature. Experience has shown that a temperature of about 60° and not higher than 65°, is most conducive to the rising of the cream glob- ules, and the more uniformly the temperature can be kept at 60° through winter and summer, the more readily the cream will be thrown up, while the milk will be kept sweet, provided the dairy is dry and properly ventilated. On no account should the temperature fall below 55°. In cooling milk for butter-making this point is important. It must not be imagined that the lower the temperature is allowed to sink, the more cream will rise, for we must bear in mind that with the reduction of the temperature, the specific gravity of the liquid is greater, and the rising of the cream or milk globules checked accordingly. Every precaution as to habits of cleanliness and the keeping from the milk and cream any article, plant, or impurity, which can by any possibility communicate a taint should be rigidly adopted. The pails and strainer should be washed [scalded with boiling water) and well rinsed in cold water, and then sufifered to dry in the open air. Every article connected with the dairy should be treated in a similar manner, as there is nothing so prejudicial to new milk as being mixed with ever so small a quantity of that which has become sour, and nothing so diflScult to eradicate as the traces left in any vessel of that which has become stale and decomposed. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 483 spoiling i2f the churn. Perfectly good cream is often spoiled in the churn, when the dairymaid has been negligent in properly cleansing it. "When the wood once absorbs this milk taint it is very difficult to eradicate it by subsequent cleansing. MANNER or CHURNING. During the process of churning a certain uniformity of temperature must be observed, or the butter will be soft and spongy instead of being firm and compact. The agitation also of the cream should be regular — neither too quick nor too slow. If the agitation is too quick the butter will make and unmake itself before the churner is aware of it, as too rapid motion induces fermentation, which, when it has reached a certain point is entirely destruc- tive of anything like the possibility of making even moderately good or well tasted butter. If, on the other hand, the motion be too slow, the agitators in the churn fail to produce the desired separation of the component parts of the cream ; and the consequence is, that after a good deal of time spent in lazy action, the churner is just as far from his butter as he was at the beginning of his labors. The best temperature for the cream in churning is from 55° to 60°. EXPERIMENTS IN TEMPERATURE. Some years ago a series of carefully conducted experiments were made in Scotland to determine the temperature at which butter can be best and easiest obtained from the cream. The following table exhibits the mean temperature of the cream used in each experiment : 1st experiment, cream stood at 57° 3d " " " eo'' 3d " " " 62° 4lli " " " 66° 5Lli " " " 70° The butter produced in the first experiment was of the very best quality, rich, firm and well tasted. That produced in the second experiment was not perceptibly inferior to the first. That produced in the third experiment was more soft and spongy, and that produced in the fourth and fifth experiments, decidedly inferior in every respect to any of the former specimens. From these experiments it appears that cream should not be kept at a high temperature in the process of churning, and the experimenters conclude that the best temperature to commence the operation of churning is about 55°, and at no time in the operation ought it to exceed 65° ; while on the con- trary, if at any time the cream should be under 50°, the labor will be much increased without any proportionate advantage being obtained. CHARACTER OF GOOD BUTTER. Mr. Stevens well remarks that when butter is properly churned both as to time and temperature, it becomes firm with very little working, and is tenacious, but its most desirable state is that of waxy, when it is easily 484 PRA.CTICAL Dairy Husbandry. molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable length without breaking. It is only in this state that butter possesses that rich, nutty flavor and smell which imj)art so high a degree of pleasure in eating it, and which enhance its value manifold. It is not always necessary to taste butter in judging of it ; the smooth, unctuous feel in rubbing a little between the finger and thumb, expresses at once its richness of quality ; the nutty smell indicates a similar taste, and the bright, glistening cream-colored surface shows its high state of cleanliness. FKEEING rKOlI BUTTEEMILK, ETC. When butter forms the churning should cease, and the mass be taken out and cleansed from any buttermilk which may still be incorporated with it. The best test that this has been satisfactorily performed is the fresh water running from the butter as pure and bright as when poured over it. It should be recollected that the less butter is handled the better. Warm hands, however clean, are apt to impart a taint ; and the difficulty of keeping them so per- fectly clean as is absolutely necessary, appears to be almost insurmountable. The ladle and butter-workei', therefore, should be used in all the necessary manipulations. THE MODEEK METHOD OF MANAGING MILK for butter-making is to have a spring house for setting the milk ; churning the cream rather than the whole milk. It is true there are those who contend that a fine quality of butter can be made by churning the " whole milk;" but such butter is apt to have more of the caseine or cheesy particles of the milk in its composition, than when the cream alone is churned ; and this caseine will injure its keeping qualities. It has been contended, too, that when the whole milk is churned more butter is obtained than by setting the milk and churning the cream. If the butter contains a considerable portion of the caseine of the milk, this would readily explain the reason for the extra quantity claimed. But, however this may be, those who make " fancy butter," and have had long experience in the art, prefer to make their butter by churning the cream, and it is the course I should recommend. MILK-EOOM FOE FAEM DAIEIES. For farm dairies the Ceoziee milk cellar would seem to be a very good model, as the building can be erected at moderate expense. A committee of the American Institute Farmers' club, consisting of Mr. J. B. Lyman and Col. F. D. CuETis, visited this establishment, and their report upon it is as follows : — " The walls are thirty-six by eighteen feet, and it is divided into ice-house, milk-room and butter-kitchen. Two tubes or conductors go down from the upper part of the ice-house. They are made of boards eight inches wide and an inch thick, with many holes bored in them. The holes allow the cold air to enter from the ice, and it pours in a stream from the mouth of the tube into the milk-room. The temperature of the air as it comes out at Practical Dairy Husbandry. 485 the mouth of the tubes is about 35°. As the milk-room has thick walls and the windows are high this flood of air at 35° is able to lower the mercury to 62°, and even lower, in July. Sometimes he closes one tube to keep the room from growing too cold. The draught is the strongest in the hottest weather. In spring and fall there is little current, and in winter, when the fire in the stove is constantly burning, the draught would be the other way. But then the mouths of the ice-tubes are closed. By this arrangement the desired temperature is secured the season through, and there is no difference between the June butter and the January butter. He makes June butter the year round. He gets ten cents per pound over the highest market price. Making, say, two hvmdred pounds a week, his gain is |20 a week by having the best arrangement for butter-making. Thus his milk-house pays for itself every nine months, to say nothing of the greatly increased facilities for doing work afforded by a pump, churn and stove so convenient. He consumes about a ton of anthracite in the four coldest months, and a slight allowance is to be made for wood used in summer to heat water for washing and scalding." THE BEST TEMPEEATUEK FOE SETTING MILK to get the cream is about 60° to 62°. The range of temperature should run no higher than 65°. The butter-makers of Orange Co., N. Y., are of the opinion that the best quality of butter is made from cream that has been obtained at a temperature a little below 60°. Cream can be obtained in a short time, and in large quantity by raising the milk to a temperature near boiling and then setting aside to cool; but such cream has more of the caseine or cheesy j)articles of the milk mingled with it than milk set without the application of artificial heat, and the butter will be injured in its keeping qualities. COLOE AND TEXTUEE. In butter-making it is important to have the butter come of a good color and of a texture that is hard and has a waxy consistency, and that will retain that peculiar aroma which imparts so much pleasure in eating it. THE MODEEN MILK PAN. When it is not convenient to have a spring-house, the best arrangement with which I am acquainted for setting the milk is the Jennings jjan. It is of tin and sets upoa a shallow wooden vat, which is to be filled with water from the well or pen stock, as the case may be, and thus the milk is rapidly divested of its animal heat, and a pretty even temperature maintained while the cream is rising. These pans are of different sizes to accommodate differ- ent sized dairies, and each one is intended to accommodate the entire mess of milk from the herd at one milking. Four pans are all that are needed for a dairy, or at least with that number of pans the milk maybe kept until thirty- six hours old before skimming. After the pans have been once filled the milk that has stood the longest is skimmed and drawn oflT, and is then ready 486 Practical Dairy Husbandry. for the next milking. The age of the milk in the different pans from day to day will be more readily seen by the following diagram : Netv Milk. Milk 12 hottks OLD. Milk 24 hours OLD. Milk 36 houes OLD. [3 Where a stream of cold water can be kept constantly flowing under the pans, expensive milk-cellars can be dispensed with, and very good results obtained in properly constructed rooms that are kept well ventilated. In the Jennings pan the milk is set from three to four inches deep and there is an arrangement of pipes for drawing off either the milk or water with conve- nience. These pans are provided with gauze net-work covers to be used as occasion requires for keeping out dust or flies. The general form of these pans is represented in the subjoined illustration (Figure 1). The Jewett pan is of very similar construction to the one just named, except that the water underneath the milk is conducted in channels instead of being spread out in a thin sheet as in the Jennings invention. Mr. Jewett describes his apparatus as follows : — The illustration (see FlGUEB 1. figure 2) represents a full set of pans, arranged with fixtures necessary for using them, for butter factories, or dairies large or small, by making them of any size required ; for factories, as wide as can be conveniently skimmed from the center, and long enough to obtain the required surface, it being perfectly practical to make them large enough for one hundred and fifty cows ; for more cows additional sets may be added. The way to use them is, put one milking of the entire dairy into one pan, adjusting the faucet on the supply pipe so as to use just water enough to extract the animal heat from the milk, and keep it at the desired temperature while the cream is rising — from 60'' to 62° ; at the time the fourth is wanted for use the first will be ready to skim ; then stop the water from running into the pan, and open the faucet near the bottom of the pan, that a sufficient quantity of water may run out, while the milk is skimmed and run off to enable the milk-maid to clean the pan. The bottom of the pans being protected from the warm atmosphere in Fravtical Dairy Husbandry. 48Y the room by tlie tables on which they set, the inside bottom being covered with milk, the means of cooling is hidden, yet it is done by keeping the milk cool in a warm, dry room without cooling or dampening the room, which is to be desired by butter-makers, thus reversing the process of carrying the milk to a cool place, where the benefits to be derived are so intermingled with dele- terious influences that it is a good illustration of the saying, you must take the bitter with the sweet. This way of handling the milk in my pans, besides reducing the labor more than one-half, enhances the net proceeds of the dairy, both in quantity and quality of the butter, fully twenty per cent. With a book of instructions any good tin-smith can make and set them up. As given in the engraving, one of the series of pans, A A, is represented as broken away to show the internal arrangement. These pans are provided FlGUEE 2. with a space, B, between their top and bottom walls. Within this space are a number of compartments, communicating with each other at alternate ends, in such a manner as to form one continuous channel, zigzag in its course, having an inlet at a, through which warm or cold water, as needed, is received ; such water, after flowing through the tortuous channel formed by the partitions, being discharged at the outlet, h. At h is shown the opening through which the overflow of water is discharged ; the object being to keep the channel in the bottom of the pan quite filled while the water is flowing through it. At c is shown a faucet through which all the water in the channel can be drawn off. These pans can be made to serve the double purpose of milk-coolers or 488 Practical Dairy Husbandry. 1 cream-raisers, the milk being kept at any temperature desired by raising or lowering the temperature of the water flowing through the passages in the bottom of the pan. When the cream has raised and has been skimmed, the milk is then run off through the pipe, c?, which communicates with the main discharge-pipe, F, which may be placed under the floor or not, as circum- stances will permit ; or, if desired, the milk can be conveyed in movable horizontal pipes from the pans into an adjoining room on the same floor. The pipe seen attached to the side of the room and above the rows of pans is the source of supply from which water is conducted to the base of the pans. For cooling, the water is received from a spring or reservoir ; but for warm- ing, from boilers or other appropriate apj)aratus. THE CEEAM THAT PIEST RISES is the best ; and to make choice butter, the cream should always be taken from the milk before it becomes old and sour. The greater the decomposition of the milk the more will the cream be affected, and as a consequence, the more difficult will it be to obtain from it a nice quality of butter. KEEPING QUALITIES. Butter, to be good, must have some keeping qualities, for it cannot be consumed from day to day as it is made. Well made butter, if properly cared for, should retain its flavor and sweetness for months ; bat we cannot expect to obtain such butter from cream that has been badly managed. STRAINING THE CREAM. Cream should have a uniform consistency, when it goes to the churn. If portions of it are thick and mingled with hard, dry particles or " cream- skins," the butter will contain " white caps," or be flecked throughout, giving it not only a bad ajipearance, but injuring its quality. When cream is set in shallow pans in. the old way, the butter is very liable to be thus affected. The cream strainer here is of very great advantage, as it reduces the cream to a like consistency in all its parts, breaking down the " skins " and jDreparing the cream, so that in churning, the butter will come evenly. Baker's Excel- sior Cream Strainer, illustrations of which we give in figures 3 and 4, is the best that we have seen for the purpose, and gives valuable aid in the butter dairy. Cream that has been raised in a temperature of 60° to 62°, should be churned at about the same temperature. Butter-makers do not like to have the cream churned afa temperature above 64°, as it injures the butter. If the temperature fall below 55°, the labor of churning, as has been remarked, will be prolonged. I do not believe in great haste in churning, or the shortest time that cream can be turned into butter. CHURNING TOO QUICK. One often hears of churns in which it is claimed the butter will come in " three minutes." It is possible that good butter may be got from the cream in that time, but I have yet to be convinced that it can be done. That cream Practical Dairy Husbandry. 489 can be churned into butter in three minutes I am aware, and although the butter may be tolerable for present use, I have never been able to get a good keepable article when the churning was done in so short a space of time. The butter globules are inclosed or surrounded by thin pellicles of caseine. In churning, these are broken and sej^arated from the oily particles. If the churning is done rapidly the separation is imperfect, and hence we get an article of butter in which there is too large a proportion of the shells of caseine. It is the caseine and nitrogenized constituent of milk that is liable to decomposition and which injures the flavor of butter. COMPOSITION" OF BUTTER — INFLUENCE OF CASEINE SHELLS. The philosophy or manner in which caseine injures the flavor of butter has been well explained by Voelcker. He says : — " Butter consists mainly of a mixture of several fats, among which palmitin, a solid crystalizable sub- stance, is the most important. Palmitin, with a little stearine, constitutes about sixty-eight per cent, of pure butter. Mixed with these solid fats are FlGUBB 3. FlGtJKE 4. about two per cent, of odoriferous oils. The peculiar flavor and odor of butter are owing to the presence of this small proportion of these peculiar oils, viz., butyrine, caproin and caprylin. In butter, as it comes upon our table, we find besides these fatty matters about sixteen or eighteen per cent, of water ; one to two per cent, of salt; and v,ariable small quantities of fragments of caseine shells. The more perfectly the latter are removed by kneading under water, the better butter keeps ; for caseine on exposure to the air in a moist state, especially in warm weather, becomes rapidly changed into a ferment, whicli, acting on the last-named volatile fatty matters of butter, resolves them into glycerine and butyric acid, Cg Hg O4 ; caproic acid, C12 Hjg O4 ; and caprylic acid C]6 H16 O4 . The occurrence of these volatile uncombined fatty acids in rancid butter, not only spoils flavor, but renders it more or less unwholesome." If all the shells of caseine could be separated from the butter, it could be 490 Practical Dairy Husbandry. preserved readily without salt. Pure fat or oil is very easily kept sweet. In some countries butter is melted and the impurities taken out by " trying " it like lard. Of course butter treated in this way loses its aroma and texture, but I mention the fact for the purpose of showing the principle to be observed in obtaining butter of good keeping quality. In churning, I do not care to have butter come sooner than from half to three-quarters of an hour. The butter-makers of Orange Co., say that the churning process should occupy from forty-five minutes to one hour. Their opinions are worthy of considera- tion, because they make an article that is unrivaled in the market, and from long and varied experience they ought to be able to settle this point definitely. No one should attempt to make butter without . USING A &OOD THEKMOMETEE, especially in preparing the cream for churning. Old and experienced butter- makers may guess at temperature pretty accurately, but the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere varies so much from day to day, that no one can be sure of being right, without an accurate instrument for determining the degree of heat required in the cream to produce the best results. MANAGEMENT EOK MAKING PHILADELPHIA BUTTER. In the management for the noted " Philadelphia butter," the spring-house is of stone, about eighteen feet wide and twenty-four feet long. Its founda- tion is deeply set in a hill-side, its floor being about four feet below the sur- face of the ground on the lower side. The floor of the spring-house is of oak, laid on sand or gravel. The water is allowed to spread over this floor to the depth of three or four inches, and the overflow passes to a tank outside the building. Raised platforms or walks are arranged on the floor of the spring- house for the purpose of moving about the room in handling the milk, etc. The walls of the room are about ten feet high, arranged at the top with win- dows, covered with wire gauze so as to give ventilation. Deep pans, of small diameter, and well painted on the outside are used. They are provided with bails, so as to be convenient in handling. The milk is strained into these vessels to the depth of about three inches, and they are set directly upon the oak floor, the water surrounding them to the depth of the milk, maintaining a temperature of about 58°. The milk sets here about twenty-four hours, when the cream is removed and placed in deep vessels holding from ten to twelve gallons. As the tem- perature of the room does not at any time rise above 58° or 59°, the cream is kept at this temperature until it goes to the churn. In some establishments there is a place in the spring-house, where the depth of water is eight or ten inches, for the especial purpose of placing the pails of cream, and where they are kept until the cream acquires a slightly acid taste, when it is ready for churning. The essential feature in the management of milk, is to keep the milk and cream near a temperature of 60°. And when a uniform tempera- ture of this kind is preserved, the largest quantity of the best quality of I Practical Dairy Husbandry. 491 butter will be secured. The cliurning is usually performed twice a week, though in some dairies which manufacture the "Philadelphia butter," the cream is churned but once a week. In removing the cream from the milk the Orange Co, plan is to use a funnel-shaped cup, with a long handle, dipping off the cream until the blue milk makes its appearance. In the Pennsylvania plan the skimming is done Avith a concave tin scoop, perforated with small holes. The churning is usually done by horse-poAver at the large establish- ments, and the temperature of the cream when the churns are set in motion, is about 62°, and just before the butter comes, cold milk or a pail of cold water is thrown into the churn. The churn is of barrel shape, revolving on a journal at each head. The churning occupies nearly an hour, and after the buttermilk is drawn off cold water is added and a few turns given to the churn, and the water is then drawn off. This is repeated until the water as it is drawn off is nearly free from milkiness. The butter is worked Avith butter-workers, a dampened cloth meanwhile being pressed upon it to absorb the moisture and free it of traces of butter-milk. The cloth is frequently dipped in cold spring-Avater and Avrung dry during the process of Aviping the butter. It is next salted at the rate of an ounce of salt to three pounds of butter, thoroughly and evenly incorpo- rated by means of the butter-worker. It is then removed to a table where it is Aveighed out and put up into pound prints. After this it goes into large tin trays, and is set in the Avater to harden, remaining until next morning, Avhen it is Avrapped in damp cloths and placed upon shelves, one above another, in the tin-lined cedar-tubs, Avith ice in the compartments, and then goes immediately to market. Matting is draAvn over the tub and it is surrounded again Avith oil cloth so as to keep out the hot air and dust, and the butter arrives in mar- ket in prime condition, commanding not unfrequently from seventy-five cents to one dollar per pound. PHILADELPHIA BUTTER PAIL. The following cuts (Figures 5, 6 and 7), illustrate the butter pail and manner of packing for market. Figure 5 shows the general form of the tub, FiGimE 5. FiGTIRB 6. Figure 7. the top or cover opening in halves. Figure 6 is a cross section showing the shelf with the butter prints arranged in place with sections of ice at the ends. Figure 7 is a perpendicular section, showing the ice chamber and ice at the sides, and the shelves of butter one above the other in the center. Ice is 492 Practical Dairy Rusbajvbry. Praciical Dairy Husbandry. 493 sometimes broken up and added to reduce the temperature, but the Orange Co. dairymen think a too free use of ice is apt to injure the keeping qualities of the butter. THE AMERICAN SYSTEM OF BUTTEK-MAKING rests mainly upon six great principles : — 1st. Securing rich, clean, healthy milk ; milk obtained, if possible, on rich, old pastures, free from weeds. 2d. Setting the milk in an untainted, well-ventilated atmosphere, and keeping it at an even temperature while the cream is rising. 3d. Proper management in churning. 4th. Washing out or otherwise thoroughly expelling the butter- milk, and working so as not to injure the grain. 5th. Thorough and even incorporation of pure salt, and packing in oaken tubs, tight, clean and well made. 6th. Cleanliness in all the operations is of important necessity, while judgment and experience in churning the cream and making the butter must, of course, be had. ( mT£nPIPE.ZOIl\I.BELOmSURF/!C£. FiGUEE 9. Gkoukd Plan.—Butteb Factoet. What really distinguishes the American system is the manner of setting the milk so as to secure an even temperature, and applying to butter-making the principles of association, so that the highest skill in manufacturing may be obtained ; in other words, the inauguration of butter factories. In previous pages of this volume cuts illustrating the ground plans of the early butter factories have been given. We introduce here the subjoined cuts (Figures 8 and 9) showing elevation and ground plan of G. B. Weeks' new butter fictory. Referring to the ground plan (Figure 9), it will be seen that in the arrangement the factory is quite as well adapted to cheese-making alone as to butter and skira-cheese manufacture. The advantage of such an arrangement is, that the factory may be turned at once to the making of whole-milk cheese or to butter and skira-cheese, as one or the other system 494 Practical Dairy Husbandry. may happen to be most profitable. The ground plan explains itself and needs no description. The upper story of the factory is for a cheese-curing room, and may be divided off for other purposes as well, if desired. The factory is regarded by many as one of the most convenient in its arrangement of any of the modern built establishments. THE WATER POOLS. In the butter factories the milk-room is constructed so that good ventila- tion is secured. It is provided with vats or tanks for holding water. These should be sunk in the earth in order to secure a lower or more even tempera- ture of water as well as for convenience in handling the milk. The pools are about six feet wide, and from twelve to twenty-four feet long, arranged for a depth of eighteen inches of water. There should be a constant flow of water in and out of the vats or pools, so as to secure a uniform temperature of the milk after it has been divested of its animal heat. The milk is set in pails, eight inches in diameter by twenty inches in length (see Figure 10), each holding fifteen quarts of milk. As fast as the milk is delivered, the pails are filled to the depth of from six- teen to seventeen inches, and plunged in the water, care being taken that the water comes up even with or a little above the milk in the pails. The temperature of the water should be from 48° to 56°. A pool holding two thousand quarts of milk should have a sufficient flow of water to divest the milk of its animal heat in less than an hour. Good, pure milk should keep sweet thirty-six hours when thus put in the vats, even in the hottest weather. When milk is kept thirty-six hours in FiGUKE 10. the water nearly all the cream will rise. The Orange Co. dairymen claim that it all rises in twenty-four hours. They say, too, that they get as much cream, by setting in pails on the above plan, as they can by setting the milk shallow in pans, and the cream is of better quality, because a smaller surface being exposed to the air, there is not that liability for the cream to get dry, which has a tendency to fleck the butter and injure its quality. REGULATING TEMPERATURE. One of the troubles of butter-making on the old system is in regulating the temperature of the milk-room, and in knowing when to skim the cream. It requires close watching. In our variable climate it is almost impossible to keep the milk at an uniform temperature when set in pans in the ordinary way. By the new system we always have an imiform temperature without trouble, and therefore have perfect control of the milk. Again, in the new system, the shells of caseine, inclosing the butter globules, are not so liable to decompose and injure the flavor of the butter, for it is this caseineous matter that spoils the butter, and even under the best management it cannot all be taken out ; but by exposing only a small surface to the air we effect an important gain. Practical Dairy Hvsbanbrt. 495 patent chukns. The Orange Co. butter-makers have tried a great many patent churns, and they find none they like so well as the old barrel dash-churn. At the butter factories they use the barrel and a-half size, and about fifty quarts of sweet cream are put into each churn ; the cream is diluted with water, by adding cold water in summfer and warm in winter, at the rate of sixteen to thirty quarts to each churning. THE TEMPERATURE OF THE CREAM IN SUMMER, when the churns are started is a little below 60°, but in cold weather they are started at 64°. In warm weather ice is sometimes broken up to put in the churn to reduce the temperature to 56°, but it is deemed better to churn without ice if the cream does not go above 64° in the process of churning, as butter made with ice is more sensitive to heat. It requires from forty-five to sixty minutes to churn, when the butter should come solid and of a rich yellow color ; it is then taken from the churn, and thoroughly washed in cold spring water. In this process the ladle is used, and three times pouring on water is generally all that is required. It is then salted at the rate of from, sixteen to eighteen ounces of salt to twenty-two pounds of butter ; for butter intended for keeping through the winter a little more. The butter, after having been salted and worked over, is allowed to stand till evening, and is then worked a second time and packed. A buttei'-workei-, consisting of a lever, fastened to an inclined table, is used for working the butter. Sometimes in hot weather, after salting, it is taken to the spring and immersed in water, when it it taken out, worked over, and packed in sixty pound pails. WHITE OAK FIRKINS are used for packing, and the greatest attention is given to have them strongly hooped and perfectly tight, so as not to allow the least leakage. They are thoroughly washed in cold water before using, then in hot water, and again in cold water. After being filled with butter, they are headed up and a strono- brine poured in at the top to fill all the intervening spaces. Another advantao-e resulting from this butter factory system is, that the skimmed milk is turned into skim-cheese. The butter factories, so far as introduced, if managed by competent persons, have proved a success, and have revolution- ized the dairy product of the neighborhood. THEY EFFECTUALLY DO AWAY WITH GREASE and put upon the market a high-flavored, high priced article. Wherever butter factories are established, consumers go into ecstacies over their intro- duction. " We now know," they say, " where we can always lay hands on a prime article, and we do not mind the cost for a rare delicacy." LOSING THE AROMA. It is sometimes contended that the practice of washing the butter detracts from its fine aroma. Doubtless this is so when the washing is excessive. It 496 Practical Dairy Husbandry. is difficult and laborious to expel the butter milk simply by working or kneading. Wasting in water seems to be indispensable in removing more perfectly the caseinous particles and securing butter that will keep. BUTTEE CELLARS. The Orange Co. factories are provided with butter cellars, cool, well ventilated and perfectly free from all taints of decaying substances. It is needless to say that these are indispensable to the butter-maker. To private or family dairies, where butter alone is produced, the system is well adapted. The appliances are not expensive, and compared with the great advantages over old methods cannot be over-estimated. SKIMMED-CHEESE MANLTPACTUEE. In making skimmed-milk cheese, we do not advise that all the cream that will rise be taken from the milk. It is important in the realization of good profits to have a skim cheese of fair quality that will meet with ready sale at a fair price. If all the cream that can be obtained from the milk be removed and the milk then turned into cheese, it will lack quality, and the loss in price will be much more than the value of a little cream which should go with the skimmed milk for the purpose of improving the quality of the cheese, and rendering it more palatable. If the milk is set in cans plunged in sj^ring water, on the Orange county system, the morning's mess may stand for cream say twenty-four hours, or until next morning ; and the night's milk twelve hours. The two messes of milk may then be skimmed, and the milk mingled together, placed in the vat for cheese-making. The manufacture of skim-cheese does not differ mate- rially from that of whole milk cheese. The milk in the vat being raised to a temperature of 82°, a sufficient quantity of rennet is added to perfect coagu- lation in about fifty minutes or an hour. Then the mass is cut with a steel- bladed curd-knife, the process of breaking effected as with whole milk cheese. The curd now having been allowed to subside, a gentle heat is begun to be applied, and the mass is very gradually raised to a temperature of 96°, the curds meanwhile being stirred, so as to keep from packing or clinging together. The curds are retained in the whey until properly matured, or as dairymen usually express it, " scalded," when the whey is drawn, the curds removed to the sink, and manipulated as with whole milk curds, and then salted at the rate of three pounds salt to one hundred of curd. Skimmed-cheese is usually made in small, flat shapes, somewhat similar to the single Gloucester of Eng- lish manufacture. They may be pressed in smaller hoops if desired, but very thick shapes should be avoided, as they do not cure so evenly and are more liable to get out of flavor. The most difficult part in manufacture is to know when the curds are properly matured or scalded. This is only to be learned by practice, or by handling the curds. In making skim-cheese it is important that a good, salable article be pro- duced. When milk is set in pans for butter making, about twenty pounds Fr ACTIO AL Dairy Husbandry. 497 of milk on an average will produce one pound of butter. In the skim-cheese and butter manufacture, about twenty-eight or thirty pounds of milk on an average are taken to make one pound of butter and two pounds of skim- cheese ; thus a basis is given in which to estimate the result of operations. In regard to the quantity of milk taken to make a pound of butter, I have named twenty pounds as an average, that quantity having been reported from the dairy practice of Hon. Zadock Pratt of Green Co., N. Y. In his report, going over several years, we find that during some seasons a much larger quantity of milk was required to make a pound of butter. As milk varies very much in character from a variety of causes, it mnst be evident that no exact standard can be given to apply in all cases. These figures must therefore, refer only to milk of average good quality. MILK FOR SKIM-CHBBSE MAKING must not be allowed to sour. It must be kept sweet, and this is easily done with the proper appliances. If the cream is churned sweet, and the butter- milk has not changed, it may be added to the skimmed milk, and thus employed for cheese-making. BUTTERMILK can hardly be regarded as of equal average value to the milk with which it is mixed for cheese-making. The value of buttermilk for cheese-making varies greatly from a variety of circumstances. Some specimens may be quite rich and others exceedingly poor. In a specimen of cream examined by Berze- Lius, the butter milk in one hundred parts was composed of cheesy matter, 3.5 ; whey matter, 92.0. Cream varies very much in composition, according to the circumstances under which it is produced. Cream of average quality contains about twenty-five per cent, of butter. The analysis of two samples of cream gave the following : No. 2. Water, Butter (pure fatty matter), Caseine, Milk sugar, Mineraf matter, If it were possible to take all the butter from the cream by churning we should have in the buttermilk of the above samples a trifle over two and a-half pounds of cheesy matter out of a hundred pounds of cream. Or, if we take out the butter, letting the balance represent the butter milk, the first sample would give a little over two and a-half poiands of cheesy material from neai'ly eighty-nine pounds of buttermilk, and in the second sample about the same amount of cheesy matter from sixty-six and a-half j)ounds of 32 498 Practical Dairy Husbanbry. buttermilk. But in churning the cream a j)ortion of the butter remains in the buttermilk, so it would be no easy matter to say how much cheese one hundred pounds of buttermilk would yield. Milk, in the fall of the year, is quite rich in butter, and even when the night's milk is skimmed and added to the whole milk of the morning, the mixture will probably yield a pound of cheese from nine pounds of milk. CHTJENING THE CREAM OR THE MILK. It is claimed, as has been remarked, and with some reason, that churning the whole milk makes more butter than to set the milk and churn the cream. In setting the milk there is always a small portion of cream remaining in the milk after skimming ; and again, in churning whole milk there are more shells of caseine mixed with the butter. This cheesy matter increases the weight but diminishes the quality of the butter. The shells of caseine also give a whitish appearance to the buttei', injuring its color. I do not say but that very good butter may be made from churning whole milk, but it is more diffi- cult than to make from the cream ; and hence, for a choice article, of fine color, full of aroma and of long keeping qualities, I should advise setting the milk and churning the cream. A temperature of about 65°, or a little above, is said to be the best for churning whole milk if sweet, but the usual temperature employed is from 60° to 65°. THE DUTCH PROCESS. The process of making butter by churning the milk and cream together is practiced to some extent in Holland. In the Dutch process the milk is put into deep jars in a cool place, each meal or portion milked at one time being kept separate. As soon as there is the least appearance of acidity, the whole is placed in an upright churn to be churned. When the butter begins to form in small kernels the contents of the churn are emptied in a sieve that lets the butter milk pass through ; the butter is then formed into a mass. THE SCOTCH METHOD. In some of the dairy districts of Scotland the process is somewhat similar. The milk when it is drawn from the cow is placed from six to twelve hours in a cooler. When completely cooled the whole meal is emptied into a large wooden tub or vat. If the vat is sufficiently capacious and a second meal of milk has become cold, before the first exhibits any acidity, the two may be mixed together. A lid or cover is then put over the vat, which is allowed to stand undisturbed until the milk has soured and become loppered or coagu- lated. When it has arrived at this state it is fit to be churned. It is put in the churn and agitated a few minutes merely to break the coagulum of the milk. The mass is then brought to a temperature of 70° and churned. In some sections the milk is churned sweet, either a few hours after milking, or the night's and morning's mess of milk mingled together, and churned in the afternoon. It is more work to churn the milk than the cream. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 499 turning the milk to most profit. When it is desired to turn milk to most account or profit, it should be set for cream, and this being removed while sweet, the skim-milk may be made into skim-cheese. Small skim-cheeses well made, meet with ready sale at a fair price. The whey resulting from the manufacture of the skim-cheese, when mixed with meal, is turned to good account as a feed for hogs, and in this way nothing is wasted. COLORING BUTTER. One of the market requisites in butter is that it be of a rich yellow or golden color. The fact that grass butter always has a rich shade without resorting to artificial coloring, is sufiicient reason on the part of consumers for suspecting that white butter must be of inferior quality. Late fall or spring butter made from the milk of cows fed upon hay, is generally deficient in color, and unless some artificial means be employed to give it the desired shade, it will not command a price in market equal to butter of the same texture and quality that has been colored. Pure annatto when properly prepared is very successfully used for impart- ing a good color to fall and winter butter. Annatto, of course, adds nothing to the flavor or quality of butter, but as the pure article when thus employed is quite harmless, there can be no serious objection to its use. In coloring butter with annatto it is important that a prime article be used, and to have it prepared so that it shall be free from sediment. Nicholl's English liquid annatto is a very good article for this purpose, but the annattoine, or dry extract of annatto, prepared as for cheese-making, after D. H. Burrell's receipt, which has been given on a previous page, is the best material for coloring butter artificially that I have seen. It gives a rich shade of color, is quite free from sediment, and from any deleterious adulteration. Doubtless the best way of coloring butter late in fall and spring, is to feed the cows upon early cut hay, nicely cured, with the addition of a daily mess of carrots, oat and corn meal, etc., as no artificial coloring will then be required, while the flavor and quality of the butter approximates more nearly to that made when the cows are at pasture. But as the kind of hay I have named may not be at hand, something, of course, must be done to take away that tallowy look which winter and spring butter is apt to have. coloring with carrots. I have seen a rich yellow color imparted to butter by coloring with carrots. The carrots should be thoroughly cleaned, then with a knife scrape off the yellow exterior only, and soak it in boiling milk for ten or fifteen minutes. It is then strained through a fine cloth, and the liquid added to the cream before churning. It not only gives a nice color, but some think it imparts a sweetness of flavor to the butter, somewhat resembling that obtained when the cows are feeding upon grass. When carrots are used for 500 Practical Dairy Husbandry. the purpose indicated, the outer or yellow portion of the root only is employed. I have heard it suggested that butter colored in this way (with carrots), is injured somewhat in its keeping qualities, but in my own expe- rience I have not found this to be the case. In the use of annatto it is under- stood, of course, that the coloring is to be added to the cream before churning. In the American Agricultural Annual for 1868, Prof. S. W. Johnson of Sheffield Scientific School, Yale College, has an interesting article wherein the philosophy of butter making is discussed. We make the following extracts. He says : "avekage composition op the products obtained from milk in making butter. " In making butter, one hundred parts of milk yield on the average, in round numbers, the following proportions of cream, butter, etc., provided the cream rises in a cool apartment, so that no sensible evaporation of water takes place : Butter milk, 6.0 Butter, -. 4.0 ) Calculated Water removed from butter by saltiug, 0. 1 f without salt. Cream, 10.0 10 Skimmed milk, 90 100 " The average percentage composition of these products is given in the subjoined table: New Milk. Skimmed Milk. Ceeam. BUTTEKMLLK. BUTTEE.t Brine, t Fat, Allumiuoids,* Milk sugar, Ash, 4.00 3.25 4.50 0.75 87.50 0.55- 3.37 4.66 0.78 90.64 35.00 2.20 3.05 0.50 59.25 1.67 3.33 4.61 0.77 89.62 85.00 0.51 0.70 0.12 13.67 0.00 0.39 3.84 0.86 Water, 94.91 Total, 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 * Caseine and albumen. JUnsalted. Brine that separates on working after saltiug; salt not included. "when IS MILK OR CREAM READY FOR CHURNING? It is very difficult, if not impossible, to bring butter from fresh milk, or from thin cream that gathers upon milk kept cold for twenty-four hours. It has been supposed that milk should sour before butter can be made. This is an error ; numberless trials having shown that sweet milk and sweet cream yield butter, as much and as easily as sour cream, provided they have stood for some time at medium temperature. The fat of milk exists in minute globules which are inclosed in a. delicate membrane. It was natural to sup- pose that in fresh milk this membrane prevents the cohesion of the fatty matters, and that, when, by standing, the milk or cream becomes capable of yielding butter after a short churning, it is because the membrane has disap- peared or become extremely thin. Experiments show, in fact, that those sol- Practical Dairy Husbandry. 501 vents which readily take up fat, as ether for example, dissolve from sweet milk more iu proportion to the length of time it has stood at a medium temperature. " Readiness for churning depends chiefly upon the time that has elapsed since milking, and the temperature to which it has been exposed in the pans. The colder it is the longer it must be kept. At medium temperature, 60° to 70* F., it becomes suitable for the churn in twenty-four hours, or before the cream has entirely risen. Access of air appears to hasten the process. The souring of the milk or cream has, directly, little to do with preparing them for the churn. Its influence is, howevei', otherwise felt, as it causes the caseine to pass beyond that gelatinous condition in which the latter is inclined to foam strongly at low temperatures, and by enveloping the fat globules hinders their uniting together. On churning cream that is very sour, the caseine separates in a fine, granular state, which does not interfere with the " gathering " of the butter. Even the tenacious, flocky mass that appears on gently heating the sweet whey from Cheshire cheese, may be churned without difficulty after becoming strongly sour. " Cream churned when slightly sour, as is the custom in the Holstein dairies, yields butter of a jDCCuliar and fine aroma. Butter made from sour cream is destitute of this aroma, and has the taste which the Holstein butter acquires after keeping some time. Stirring of cream does not promote souring, but rather hinders it by increasing access of air ; it may be advantageous in mak- ing the souring uniform. "the tempekatuee while churning. which is most favorable for gathering the butter with the proper softness and adhesiveness, is 66® to 70° F. The melting point of butter made on dry hay is slightly higher than that produced on grass, or while feeding with oil cake ; . correspondingly we find that, in winter, it is customary to churn a few degrees warmer than in summer. Sour cream may be cooled by direct addi- tion of Avater, but sweet cream is thereby prevented from yielding its butter. In the latter case, cold skim-milk may be used, or the cream should be cooled by water external to the churn. " the duration of churning. as is well recognised in practice, is of great influence on both the quality and quantity of the butter. Half an hour, at least, is considered essential by experienced dairymen for churning, when the volume of cream is considerable, and an hour or even more is not thought too much. The object of churning is to bring the fat globules of the cream or milk, which, by standing a suit- able time, have become divested of their envelopes, into contact so that they unite to a coherent mass. The gentler the motion to which the cream is sub- jected, the more slowly goes on the process of agglutination, and the closer and finer the union takes place. By slow churning the butter leaves the churn in a nearly finished condition, and requires a comparatively small I 502 Practical Dairy Husbandry. amount of working to complete its preparation. On the contrary, when butter is to come in a few minutes by violent agitation, as in the strife for the i repute of quick work in case of trials of new churns, there is obtained, ! instead of good butter in dense and large clumps, a doughy mass consisting I of little balls of fat mixed with buttermilk and cream, and full of air bubbles, which no skill in working can convert into good butter. While it is true that violent churning will produce a greater weight of so-called butter, it is demonstrated by chemical analysis that the milk or cream thus treated does not yield so much of its fat as is obtained by slower and gentler agitation. The greater weight of the product is due to the admixture of butter milk, which is retained in the spongy mass. The fact that churning must go on for some time before any visible change is effected in the cream, and that the blatter ' comes ' somewhat suddenly, is due to the exceeding minuteness of the fat globules, of which myriads must unite before they attain a size visible to the unaided eye. " WASHING BUTTEE. To prepare butter for keeping without danger of rancidity and loss of its agreeable flavor, great pains is needful to remove the buttermilk as com- pletely as possible. This is very imperfectly accomplished by simply work- ing or kneading. As the analysis before quoted shows, salting removes but little besides water and small quantities of sugar. Caseine, which appears to spoil the butter for keeping, is scarcely diminished by these means. "Washing with water is indispensable for its removal. In Holland and parts of Ilolstein it is the custom to mix the cream with a considerable amount of water in churning. The butter is thus washed as it ' comes.' In Holland it is usual to wash the butter copiously with water besides. The finished article is more remarkable for its keeping qualities than for fineness of flavor when new. The Holstein butter, which is made without washing, has at first a more delicious aroma, but appears not to keep so well as washed butter. Swedish butter, made by Gussandee's method, in which the cream rises completely in twenty-four hours, the milk being maintained at a temperature of 60® to 75" F., is, when jKepared without water, the sweetest of all. If, however, it is to be kept a length of time, it must be thoroughly washed before salting. " SALTING. " Immediately after chui-ning the mass consists of a mixture of butter with more or less cream. In case very rich cream (from milk kept warm) is employed, as much as one-thii'd of the mass may be cream. The process of working completes the union of the still unadhering fat globules, and has, besides, the object of removing the buttermilk as much as possible. The buttermilk, the presence of which is objectionable in new butter by impair- ing the taste, and which speedily occasions rancidity in butter that is kept, cannot be properly removed by working alone. Washing, as already Practical Dairy Husbandry. 503 described, aids materially in disposing of the buttermilk, but there is a limit to its use, since if applied too copiously, the fine flavor is impaired. After working and washing there remains in the butter a quantity of butter- milk or water which must be removed if the butter is to admit of preserva- tion for any considerable time. To accomplish this as far as possible, salting is employed. The best butter-makers, after kneading out the buttermilk as for as practicable, avoiding too much working so as not to injure the consis- tency or ' grain ' of the butter, mix with it about three per cent, of salt, which is worked in layers, and then leave the whole twelve to twenty-four hours. At the expiration of this time the butter is again worked, and still another interval of standing, with a subsequent working, is allowed in case the butter is intended for long keeping. Finally, when put down, additional salt (one-half per cent.) is mixed at the time of packing into the tubs or crocks. The action in salt is osmotic. It attracts water from the buttermilk that it comes in contact with, and also takes up the milk sugar. It effects thus a partial separation of the constituents of the buttermilk. At the same time it penetrates the latter and converts it into a strong brine which renders decomposition and rancidity difficult or impossible. Sugar has the same effect as salt, but is more costly and no better in any respect. Independently of its effect as a condiment, salt has two distinct offices to serve in butter- making, viz. : 1st, to remove buttermilk as far as possible from the pores of the butter; and 2d, to render innocuous what cannot be thus extracted." TAINTS IN" BUTTER-MAKING. Little things have much to do in dairy management. It is a little thing in butter-making that often spoils a large quantity of butter. Due attention may have been paid to pasturage, to cows, to milking, to setting the milk and churning the cream, and yet the butter turns out to be ill-flavored and inferior for the table. That clealiness and a pure atmosphere for milk and cream are essential to success in butter-making, seems to be one of the most difficult things for people to understand. I have seen butter spoiled by standing the cream in wooden vessels — vessels that had absorbed a taint from decomposed cream and which no ordinary cleansing would remove ; nor could dairymaids sometimes be made to believe that so apparently slight a cause would produce the difficulty until a change from wood to stone cream pots changed the whole character of their products. Some dairymen are in the habit of standing their. CKEAM POTS IN THE KITCHEN PANTRY to take the odors of boiled cabbage, fried onions and the steam of culinary operations on the kitchen stove, and it is from these things, these little things., that a taint goes to the cream-pots, and the good woman Avonders what is the matter with the butter. The butter-makers of Pennsylvania, who manufacture the celebrated Philadelphia butter, are exceedingly careful that no taints are allowed to come in contact with the cream or milk in the spring-house. You 504 Practical Dairy Husbandry. cannot enter their sacred precincts with a lighted cigar, your shoes must be cleansed of all impurities and you are expected to observe all the proprieties that you would on entering a costly-furnished parlor. It is by attention to the smallest details that they have been enabled to accomplish a grand result, and put upon the table a luxury. CAUSES AFFECTING THE CHURNING. The food on which a cow is fed has considei'able influence, not only on the quantity and quality of the butter she will yield, but on the time required in churning. Generally, when the extra food given is rich in nitrogen, there is less trouble in churning ; or, in other words, the butter comes quicker than when such food as potatoes, distiller's slops, etc., is made the sole extra food. If bran, oats and corn meal be given to the cow in connection with the pota- FlGUBB 11. FiGUBE 12. toes, the cream will be of better quality and will be more easily churned than that made from potatoes and hay alone. It may be remarked here that when neither grain nor meal is fed to cows in winter, in addition to hay, and the extra feed is composed of materials of which starch, sugar and water are the chief ingredients, the cream requires to be churned at a higher tempera- ture than that produced from food containing a good proportion of albumi- noids. There is another trouble in fall and winter that often retards the churning ; the milk and cream are not kept at an even temperature. If the milk is allowed to freeze and thaw, or to fall to a low temperature while being set for cream there is more difficulty in getting the butter speedily. The milk or cream should not be allowed to fall below 60°. When no conveniences are had for keeping the milk at the proper tem- perature while the cream is rising, in fall and winter, tolerably good results Practical Dairy Husbandry. 505 may be obtained by scalding the milk by placing it in a pan over hot water on the stove. As soon as a little " crinkle " is observed on the onter edges of the thin coat of cream which rises, remove the pan to a room of moderate temperature, or where the temperature does not fall below 50°, and the cream will not only rise rapidly, but can generally be churned with facility. The proper scalding of the milk will be easily learned by experiment. If scalded too much, the amount of cream will be diminished. I do not object to pota- toes being fed to cows in milk during fall and winter, but they should have in addition a mess of meal daily, with all the good hay they can eat. POWER FOR CHURlSriNG. A great many devices from time to time have been invented for lessening the labor of churning. Commencing with some of the more rude and simple modes of applying power, the preceding cut (Figure 11), is an illustration. It is simply a hickory sapling about twelve or fourteen feet long, fastened firmly at the butt end, while at the other end is fixed a seat in which a child can sit and perform the work with more ease than a grown person in the ordinary way. The dash of the churn may be fastened at any point to accommodate the spring of the pole. Then we have the simple arrange- ment of utilizing the water from small streams that may happen to be conve- nient to the premises. An illustration of such apparatus is shown in figure 12. Figure 12 is a watei'-power churn, showing the water-wheel fitting easily into the box or flume at the outlet of the dam ; or it may be simf)ly placed in a swift-running brook, as it does not require much power or speed. The wheel should be about three feet in diameter. The power can be transmitted any distance by means of two wires fastened upon j^oles with swing-trees that receive a backward and forward motion from the crank of the water-wheel. A correspondent of the Rural New Yorker sends to that paper the directions for making one of these appliances, which may prove suggestive and useful to farmers who have an opportunity of using water power for the purpose named. He says : — Take a stick of timber twenty inches in length and six in diameter (marked G,) (see Figure 13) secure it at the ends by iron bands (similar to hub-bands on a carriage-wheel) to prevent sj^litting while mortising the holes and driving the arms, to which pieces of board seven inches in width and twelve or fourteen inches long must be nailed. These are the paddles to the wheel, and there must be four of them. In one end of the shaft there must be an iron pin, in the other a crank F, similar to the Figure 13. 606 Practical Dairy Husbandry. crank of a grindstone. The crank must be just half as long as the play in the churn. Have the end of the crank square where it is driven into the end of the shaft, so as to prevent its moving in the shaft as the wheel goes round. After the end of the crank is driven into the shaft, attach the other end to a piece! of board two inches in width E, reaching up to cross piece C, which is made: long enough to reach to the place where the churn is to sit. The center of the cross piece is made to play upon an iron or hard wood pin in a groove in the top of a post D, which must be set firmly in the ground, or made firml some other way. At the other end of the cross piece is another stick or' light piece of board B, extending downward to the top of the churn dashers, and is secured by boring a hole in each end, tying them together with a good strong string, and all is ready for churning. I have one of these which my son fourteen years old made, after irons were ready, which does ray churning in twenty minutes, when the cream is the right tem2:)erature. When considerable quantities of cream are to be chui-ned and hand power is relied upon, the following sketch and description which a correspondent sends us may be useful. He says the machine was invented by a neighbor FlGDKB 14. ' who has used it twenty years and finds it a most convenient and labor-saving appliance, and any farmer who is handy with tools can make all the parts in a short time and it will run one or half a-dozen churns as easily as could be wished. He describes the machine as follows (See Figure 14). A horizontal shaft eighteen inches in circumference, is made to turn loosely in posts or in stationary uprights at either end. In the center of the shaft is fixed a bar that extends nearly to the floor, and at the lower end there is a handle of convenient length for moving the bar to and fro, thus setting the machine in motion. Cross bars are arranged in the shaft to which the churn dashers are attached. When four churns are to be used at once, the posts should be seven feet apart, and the cross bars to which the dashers are attached should pass through the shaft half-way from either post to the perpendicular bar which operates the machine. The churn-dasher handles must be made ten or Fraciical Dairy Husbandry 507 twelve inches longer than the ordinary handles, and with holes through the top to receive a pin by which they are secured to the cross-bars, making a movable joint. The cut (Figure 15) shows a mechanical contrivance to lessen the labor of hand churning. The system of gearing and balance wheel not only lessens the labor but produces a steadiness of motion or regu- larity of stroke of the dash which is always desirable in churning. Figure 16 is the old-fashioned dog-churn, and probably as good in all respects as any. The tread wheel should be carpeted, in order to give the dog a firm hold with his toe-nails. Any carpenter can make it with no other directions than the engraving affords. The plain plank treadwheel should be inclined as in the engraving. DOG AND SHEEP POWEK. The Cortland Co. butter-makers use a machine constructed on the prin- ciple as shown at figure 16, except that there is an improved gearing for Figure Ift FigttrE 16. running the churn. In Orange Co. horse-powers for churning are constructed essentially on the same plan. Figure 17 is a vertical wheel with a rim about two feet in width, on the inside of which the animal treads. It is necessary to have this wheel as much as eight or ten feet in diameter. The engraving gives ample insight into its mechanical construction. The Emeey machine, a dog-power, constructed on the railway principle, is very much liked by many, and is a cheap and efficient power. The illustration (Figure 18) shows the form and manner of application. Among the sweep powers for churning we know of nothing better than the Richardson power — one of the cheapest sweep powers made, and useful for many other kinds of work on the farm besides churning. The cut (Fig: 19) shows its general form. 608 Practical Dairy Husbandry. OVER-WORKING BUTTER AND SPOILING THE GRAIN. A great deal of good butter is spoiled in the working. There are vast quantities of butter to be found in the markets, of good color, properly salted, the buttermilk expelled, and yet it has a mussy look and lardy taste. ■ Consumers are often at a loss to account for it. The butter is not rancid nor i has it any disagreeable odor, but it is poor, nevertheless. This butter may have been made from the nicest cream, with the utmost attention to cleanli- ness in every branch of its manufacture, from the drawing of the milk to its packing in the firkin. The maker perhaps has expended all her knowledge and every resource within reach to get a prime article, hoping for a name in the market, and an advanced price for a really " tip-top " article. And when the expert affirms that the butter is inferior and must be classed as second or Figure 17. Figubk 18. third rate, it is very disheartening, and some give up in despair of ever learn- ing the " knack " of manufacturing a strictly nice grade of goods. They cannot imagine why butter upon which so much care and attention has been bestowed should be condemned as having a greasy look and taste. If inquiry be made concei'ning the fault in manufacture, the dealer, if he be an expert, will be very likely to say, " My dear sir, or madam, your butter has no grain ;" but, as it is somewhat difficult to define Avhat is meant by THE " GRAIN " OF BUTTER, and as the manufacturer does not understand where the trouble lies, no improvement is made. What is meant by the term grain as applied to butter, is a waxy appearance, and the more it resembles wax in its apjjearance the better the grain. When properly churned, both as to time and temperature, the butter becomes firm with very little working, and is tenacious. It then may be easily molded into any shape, and may be drawn out a considerable length before breaking. It has a smooth and unctuous feeling on rubbing a little between the finger and thumb. When the grain is injured the butter spreads like grease, and the more it resembles grease the more is the grain injured. Good butter that has not been injured in the grain will not stick to the knife that cuts it. Butter that has no grain is brittle, and when broken Practical Dairy Husbandry. 509 presents a jagged surface and will not spread with that smooth, waxy appear ance belonging to good butter. It is only when butter has this waxy coq sistency that it preserves that rich, nutty flavor and smell which impart so high a degree of pleasure in eating it. So it will be seen there is very good reason for consumers rejecting butter that has been overworked into grease, even though it may have all the essentials of the best quality when taken from the churn. IlSr WORKING BUTTEK. the hands should not come in direct contact with the butter. Gather it together with a wooden butter ladle in the tray or butter bowl, turn off the buttermilk and wash with fresh spring water. Gash it around the whole circumference, making channels lowest at either end, so that the butter- milk can readily run off. Do not grind it down against the tray, after the manner of tempering mortar, for in this way you will be likely to injure the grain. It is not well to attempt to work out all the buttermilk at once. But very little manipulation is required in washing out the buttermilk; then salt with pure, fine salt and set aside in a cool place for twelve hours, during which time the action of the salt will liberate more of the buttermilk. Then work a second time, either with the ladle or butter-worker, using precautions not to over- work or grind the butter by rubbing it down against the tray, and then the work is done and the butter is ready for packing. BUTTER-WOEKEE. Quite a number of butter-workers have been introduced from time to time, some of them useful and others liable to injure the grain of the butter from their peculiar construction. On a previous page I have given a cut of the butter- worker used largely in Orange Co. Among the butter-workers of Cortland Co., N". Y., I found an instrument very much like those illustrated in figures 20 and 21, largely in use. They appeared to be inferior to the Orange Co. machine. The subjoined cuts will 510 Practical Dairy Husbandrt, illustrate some of the butter-workers that have been in use from time to time (see Figures 22, 23 and 24). Figures 22 and 23 consist of a table and fluted roller. The roller is made of hard wood, and being pressed over the butter expels the buttermilk. It may also be made to incorporate salt with the butter. A table is in some cases made with a marble top ; but it has been urged against such that the acid of the buttermilk decomposes the stone, and the lime becoming mixed with the butter, injures it. Hence wood, maple or oak, is preferred. The Eureka or Corbin butter-worker, is a recent invention, and from its simplicity and ease of operation is a valuable addition to this class of imple- ments. A common butter-bowl is placed and held securely on a small, light stool, firmly against a solid rest R (see Figure 25) that protects it from break- ing or springing. It may be revolved either way at will, also easily tipped FlGUEE 20. FiGUBE 21. by a lever to drain olF the fluids, and as readily removed from the stool as from a table, and bowls of difierent sizes may be used on the same stool. The ladle, H, is attached to a pendant lever, F, G, that enables a person to press directly through hard butter in all parts of the bowl without drawing or sliding it ; also to cut, turn and work it in every manner desired. It is light, strong and simple, everything about it is practical, with nothing to get out of place or order, and it is as handily moved, washed and dried as any butter bowl and ladle. The lever, E, is fastened to the slot, J, while the butter is being worked, and is raised up to discharge the buttermilk from the bowl as occasion requires. There is a circular iron rim fastened to the bottom of the bowl which slides in an iron groove attached to the lever K, and which allows the bowl to be moved round and when desired to be removed entirely from the other parts of the worker. I have tested this machine for working butter and am pleased with its operation. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 511 SALT. A great many people do not understand the importance of keeping salt in a dry, pure atmosphere. Of course a pure article of salt should be obtained in the first jalace ; then keep it wliere it will not absorb foul gases and bad odors. Salt that is allowed to get damp and is exposed in this condition to the effluvia of rotten vegetables, the odors from carrion, the sink or cess-pools is not fit to put into butter. Butter is often spoiled in flavor by inattention to the manner in which salt is kept — allowing crumbs and other refuse matter from the pantry to fall into the salt dish — taking out salt with dirty hands, etc., thus leaving impurities to be gathered up and added to the butter. HAIKS. It may also be added that human hair is no improvement, either in the flavor or quality of butter. I have seen choice samples of butter rejected on account of a single hair having been discovered in it. So strong was the impression that the butter was made by a dirty, shiftless person, that no argument could prevail upon the customer to take it. FiGtJBB 22. PlGtTRE 23. PACKING BUTTER AND BUTTER PACKAGES. A great many people make good butter and spoil it in the packing. Prob- ably there is no article of food in which fine quality is more eagerly sought after than butter, and none for which a large price is more cheerfully paid. It is true a good deal of butter is spoiled in the making, but it seems such a wanton waste to deliberately convert a good material into grease for want of a little foresight in packing, that we cannot refrain from bringing the ques- tion fairly before the butter-makers of the country. Dairymen should under- stand that BUTTER WILL NOT KEEP IN EVERY KIND OP A TUB OR FIRKIN, and he who packs butter in shabbily-made, badly-hooped tubs, does it as a cheat and a Avrong to somebody. It is impossible to keep butter any length of time in a leaky tub, exposed as it must be more or less to foul air and odors, before it reaches the consumer. Those who make " gilt-edged " butter 512 Practical Dairy Husbandry. pay the greatest attention to packing, and a good share of its superior quality (a quality which frequently sells at from seventy-five cents to a dollar per pound) is due to extra packages and the extra care taken in all the details while packing. • No " gilt-edged " butter is filled in firkins or pails standing in the house-cellar, surrounded by decaying vegetables, in the vicinity o»j soap tubs, stale beef brine, and accumulations of soap grease. Some peopl^ pack and store butter in these places, and then complain because they cannot get the market price on the day of sale. A few years since a dairyman of my acquaintance, who had been partic- ulai'ly unfortunate in his sales, sent for a noted butter-maker to learn the secret of making a high-priced article. The man came and looked over the premises, and the only advice given was, " You need a clean, sweet, Avell- ventilated cellar for storing butter, and it must be used for nothing else ; FiGTIEB 24. FiGtJBE 25. THEN GET OAK FIEKINS, HEAVILY HOOPED, AIR-TIGHT, and made just as handsome as the best cooper can turn them out. You need not change in your process of manufacture. This is all you have to do, and I will warrant your success." These suggestions were at once adopted and quick sales, large prices and heavy profits were the result. That dairy has now an enviable reputation, and the butter is eagerly sought after. A dirty- looking package will often lose a good sale. It should have a fresh, clean, sweet appearance when it reaches the consumer, that will please the eye of the most fastidious. THE KIND OP WOOD POR PACKAGES. There are only a few kinds of wood that are fit to pack butter in. Wood of the ash is extensively used in some sections. It contains an acid very objectionable for butter, and should be rejected. Spruce, pine and other gummy woods are often used, but they impart a disagreeable flavor to the butter. Practical Dairy Husbandry. 513 White oak makes an excellent package, but the Avood should be thoroughly- seasoned before using. If the package is to be filled at once f.r.d immediately sold, a price may perhaps be obtained for it as a good article, but imless it goes into immediate consumption some one finds himself cheated with rancid grease. Just where the cheat comes in, and who are the guilty parties, the thousands of persons who are being cheated never know. I have given on previous pages cuts representing the Orange Co. packages and the Philadel- phia butter package. One of the best return packages is the Wescott return butter pail represented in figure 26. It is made of the best kiln-dried white oak, matched and turned perfectly smooth inside and outside, oiled and varnished, with extra heavy iron hoops, nicely fitted and perfectly secured cover by means of galvanized ears of malleable iron, with bar, spring key and galvanized hasp. It is a neat, substantial, secure and durable article. The twenty-five pound Avhite oak pail furnished by the Oak Pail Manufacturing Company is also a desirable article. It is designed for packing choice butter for family use, and not being liable to breakage, and being made of the best FiGUBB 26. FiGUBE 27. materials and in the best manner, it is to be recommended. Recently small packages made after the Wescott return pail, each package holding about five pounds of butter, have been introduced. Twelve of these packages are placed in a box in double tiers and are thus sent to market. The Elmere package is a Vermont invention, and consists in what may be termed a follower nearly as large as the inside of the tub, with a projection at tAVO opposite points that slide doAvn in grooves about an incli, and then become fast by sliding into another groove running in an opposite direction. The object of the foUoAver is for salt to be placed upon it in such quantity as to produce a brine that Avill keep the air entirely excluded from the butter, preserving it from rancidity. The article is represented in figure 27. PREPARING FIRKINS FOR USE. In preparing firkins and tubs for use, boiling water should be poured into them and left to soak for twenty-four hours. Then fill Avith strong brine for tAvo or three days, turn out and rinse with pure, cold Avater, and rub the 33 514 Practical Dairy Husbandry. sides with, pure fine salt. Tubs, after being fitted should be headed and brine poured in at a hole in the top so as to fill all intervening spaces. Fir- kins when filled may be covered with a thin piece of muslin, upon which is spread a layer of fine salt, and then closed With a wooden cover. Store in a clean, sweet, well-ventilated butter cellar until ready for market. Good butter in good tubs, properly packed and stored, need not wait long for a customer at top prices. WHEY BUTTER. At the fai-m dairies and among the early factories the butter taken from the whey was not considered of much account beyond furnishing a kind of grease for oiling the cheese. The whey was run into vats or tubs, and after standing from twelve to twenty hours, or longer, the cream was taken off and a sufficient quantity being obtained, it was placed in a kettle over the fire and " tried out " something in the manner of preparing lard. At the farm dairies it was often churned and the butter purified by heating over a fire and pouring the oil from the sediment. The opinion did not at that time gener- rally prevail that any thing more than a respectable kind of grease could be obtained from whey cream. A few years ago, however, processes were adopted for obtaining whey butter and preparing it for table use. In this some factories have met Avith great success, being able to produce a quality of butter that, when freshly made and nicely put up, will sell in the market at the same price as the ordinary samples of butter made at farm dairies. Whey butter, however, both in texture and flavor, is inferior to fancy butter made from cream, and though when freshly made it may be made to pass for cream butter for table use, still it does not possess long-keeping qualities and should go into immediate consumption as soon as made. The following is a description of the processes by which whey butter is manufactured for the table. Under that entitled the hot process five hundred gallons of whey on an average is said to yield twenty pounds of marktetable butter. THE HOT PEOCESS. In this process the whey is drawn sweet directly from the curds to a vat having a copper bottom, and setting over an arch similar to those used for boiling sap in sugar making. The butter works are separated from the cheese manufacturing department, the arch and vat being arranged lower than the cheese vat, so that the whey may be readily drawn, simply by having a conducting pipe from one vat to the other. After drawing the whey one gallon of acid is added for every fifty gallons of milk, if the whey is sweet. If the whey is changed a less quantity of the acid will be sufficient, and if the acid is not sharp one pound of fine, pure salt should be incorpo- rated with it. The acid having been added in the above proportions heat is immediately applied to the mass until it indicates a temperature of from 175® to 185" F. As the cream rises to the surface it is skimmed off and set Frautical Dairy Husbandry. 515 in a cool place until next day. It is then churned at a temperature of from 66° to 68°, according to the temperature of the atmosphere, and then worked and salted according to the usual method of butter-making. The acid is made by taking any quantity of whey after extracting the cream, heating it to a boiling point, and adding a gallon of sharp, sour whey to every ten gallons of boiling whey, when all the caseine and albuminous matter remain- ing in the whey will collect in a mass. This is skimmed off and the whey left to stand for twenty-four to forty-eight hours, when it will be ready for use. THE COLD PROCESS. The other process, called the Eggak, or cold process, is said to make very good butter, but I am not so familiar with its operations or the quality of the butter j^roduced as in the process I have first described. In the cold pro- cess the whey is drawn into a zinc vat, or one having a metal bottom. This vat is fifteen inches high, three feet wide and of convenient length. It sets in a wooden vat with space between the two for cold water. The whey is then drawn into the upper vat, and a handfull of salt added to every ten gal- lons of whey. During the first two hours it is stirred thoroughly from the bottom every fifteen minutes. Afterward it is left to stand quiet for about twenty-four hours, when it is skimmed. The cream is then churned at a temjDcratvire of about 58®. If the temperature of the cream is above 60° cool it; if below 56° warm it. It is churned until the butter becomes granu- lated about the size of buckwheat kernels, when it is left to stand about five minutes, then let the buttermilk run ofi", and throw on cold water. Let it stand until it is hard before stirring much, then rinse with cold M^ater until the water runs ofi" clear, then churn it together or gather it and press the water out, and salt it at the rate of one pound of salt to fourteen pounds butter. Let it stand till next day and work and pack as with other butter. A.PI>EISri3IX, DAIRY BARN. Since writing the description of Dairy Barns, in the fore part of this volume, a correspondent of the Rural New-Yorker sends to that paper the following plans of a convenient dairy barn, which we think offer good suggestions to those who propose to erect this kind of building on dairy farms. He says : — This barn was designed and is now owned by D. "W. Clark, Esq., of Schuyler's Lake, N. Y., who is one of the leading dairymen of Otsego County. The principal advantages attained in its construction are a dry, light and well ventilated stable for cows, convenience in feeding and caring for tlie same, ample storage for all the forage needed during the winter, besides room for all the grain raised on a lai-ge dairy farm ; also depositories for manure, so arranged that it is protected from the washings of heavy rains without incurring the risk of injuring tlie health of stock or rotting the limbei-s which support the stable floor, as is the case where the manure cellars are directly under the stable. By referring to the engravings, the reader will understand how these advantages are secured. The basement walls are built on a foundation of stone, hammered into the soil, and are twenty inches thick, of quarry stone, laid in lime mortar, and are eight feet high ; the sills are bedded in mortar, and are of yellow pine. The cross sills are supported by two cast-iron columns (set on a thick stone, four feet square) under each bent. Tiie piers under main sills are two by four feet, of quarry stone. There are six bents in the frame, the posts of which are braced and pinned at both top and bottom. The feed holes or traps are directly beneath the cupolas, which, together with the windows in rear of stables, are hung on hinges, and may be swung up to secure perfect ventilation. That portion of the basement devoted to stabling is thirty by seventy feet. Total area of building, fifty-two by seventy ; has capacity for stabling forty-two cows, together with feed, horse-power machinery for cutting feed, &c. The root cellar is near the barn, where there is a stream of water convenient for washing roots and watering stock. The siding is of inch pine, planed and matched, and thoroughly painted. Total cost, $3,000. SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION. Mr. Anson Bartlett of Ohio, in an address before the American Dairymen's Asso- ciation, gives the following ; It is well understood by practical cheese-makers that, in a temperature of 65° or below, there is very little diflBculty in preserving milk, providing ordinary care is used to keep all utensils used for or about it clean and sweet, and that while such a temperature is maintained the merest tyro can produce a fair article of cheese,, but that when the temperature of the atmosphere rises above that point, ascending as it does in some parls Practical Dairy Evsbanvry. Pbactical Dairy Husbandry. 519 End View oi" Feasee-wobk.— The ends or outside bents have walls clear across under sills, instead of iron columns. I, I, Iron columns. Hight of basement, 8 feet ; hight of post from basement to rafters, 16 feet ; roof, one-half pitch. Basement.— A, alley. 8x70 feet ; B, stall floor, A^x 70 feet ; C, ditch or drop, 14 inches wide ; D, space or walk ; B, stanchions ; F, manure cellar ; G, piers, 2x4 feet ; H, columns under cross sills ; W, win- dows ; I, doora. 520 Afjpendix. TABLE SHOWING THE TEMPERATURE OF THE DAIRY REGION. Stations. Orleans County.Crafts- bury, Vt Chittenden Co., Bur- lington, Vt Kutlund County, Bran- don, Vt Hampden Co., Spring field, Mass Berkshire County,Wil liams College, Mass Albany, ~1 Orange Co., New- burgh, Oneida Co., South Trenton, Oneida Co., Clin- ton, Jefferson Co., The- resa, Madison Co , Onei- da, Oneida Co., Utrca, Oswego Co., Os- wego Monroe Co., Roch- ester, Erie Co., BufTalo,. Chatauqua County Jamestown J Ashtabula County, Austinburg,. ... Columbiana Co. , E. Fairfield Geauga Co., Welsh- field Cuyahoga County, Cleveland, Huron Co., Nor- \ walk, Wayne Co., Woos- ter, Erie Co , Kelley's Island, Lake County Mad- ison, J D3KalbCo,Sand-l wich La Salle Co., Otta- wa, Winnebago Co . Winnebago,.. . . '. MoHenry Co., Ma- rengo, Kane Co., Aurora,, Monroe County, Mon- roe. Mich Ingham Co. A2;ricultu- ral College, Mich.... Cincinnati, Ohio, Louisville, Ky Montgomery County, Clai-ksville, Tenn... 90 87 AG 103 96 96 99 91 9G 93 98 90 95 97 97 93 9.3 94 95 91 98 93 95 96 104 96 99 102 CD P > 3 3 3 o I g og g a p &s >^ 3 ^H ~ >^ -> sl = 3 „. 3 — -c P cii g. g^ S W p s 6 ~_ 3 Y' 6 3 " c t] .-• 2' Mean Temperature each of four months. 3 W o c. 09 —28 —29 —22 —21 -18 —18 -15 22 —20 —27 —26 —15 —10 — 9 —17 —14 — 8 —12 —11 -13 -10 —13 -10 —26 —25 —28 -17 —20 — 4 —22 —12 -10 40.3 48. 45.8 46.5 44.5 50.5 50.3 44. 48. 44.5 46.2 45.75 47.3 48. 46. 47.75 43.2 48.8 49.5 48.5 48.8 49. 49.2 4'5.2 47.5 44. 45.5 46.5 48.75 45.8 55. 54.5 56.75 59.1 62 5 65.5 65.5 62. 70. 70.2 65. 68. 64. 65.5 06.5 64. 46.2 66.5 67. 66. 66. 68.5 eas 67.5 71. 69.8 72. 67.75 68.75 68. 66.2 67.5 67.2 66. 74. 75. 73. £0.7 24.5 25. 24.5 25.5 31.2 .31. 25. 24. 23.5 25. 27. 27.5 28. 25.75 28.75 25.5 30. .30. 25.5 27.7 29.8 30 5 23. 25.75 26. 22.2 23.5 28.5 25.2 37. 34.5 40.5 45.5 47.5 52. 50.2 49. 57.5 54.5 44.5 50.5 48.2 50.5 44. 51. 48. 49. 52. 54. 52.5 52. 53.5 54.5 52. 52.5 52.5 51.5 52. 51. 53. 56.5 50. 58. 58.2 54.6 38.1 40. 43. 44.5 43.5 46.5 49.5 43.4 44.5 42.5 46. 45 5 45. 45.5 41.5 44. 46.5 43. 46.5 46.5 44.5 48.5 43. 41. 42.5 41. 44.5 44. 42.5 42.5 49. 49. 51.5 44.09 CO. 40.73 62. 40.42 65. 36.25 65.5 35.56 64.5 38.81 68.5 38.82 69. 55.25 43.67 40.71 62.55 44.00 ;k.88 44.11 50.34 43.39 59.44 51.88 40.34 39.81 31.07 46.54 35.75 38.91 35.17 43.92 31.86 39.52 28.12 41.31 52.31 48.49 64.5 64. 64. 62.2 66.5 66. 66.5 63.5 67. 69. 70.5 67. 70. 68.5 66.5 67. 67.5 66.5 73. 72.2 72.5 66. 68. 72. 73. 69. 72.1 77. 72.5 69. 71. 70.5 68.5 69.6 73. 73.5 72. 71.5 73. 73.2 74. 73. 76. 75. 71.7 75. 74.75 74. 75. 76. 73.2 73.5 78.3 78.5 77.5 61.3 66. 68.2 63.2 62. 70. 67. 59.2 67. 68. 65. 66.7 66.5 67.5 68. 70. 71. 64. 71. 67. 70. 73.5 72. 68.4 68. 69.5 68.5 65. 68. 68.5 66.5 74.3 73. 73.5 52.6 54.2 57.6 GO. 5 58. 61.4 68. 64. 61. 55. 62. 58.4 58. 58. 60.5 59. 58. 60. 61. 62. 60. 63. 63.5 64.6 59.5 62. 60. 59. 57. 59.2 57. 67.3 66.5 68.5 15.66 15.77 17.72 11.42 16.73 20.04 17.20 24.77 17.15 9.00 32.29 13.02 12.57 15.42 18.30 13.77 28.64 18.01 18.96 18 88 13.69 1.5.53 17.40 13.38 17.77 24.94 16.55 18.81 10.71 15.82 23.17 15.49 1863-66 1863-64 186.3-66 1864-66 1866 1866 1866 1866 1858-63 1863-64 1863-66 1863-66 1863-66 1858-66 1864 1863-64 1866 1858-64 1857-66 1866 1864 1863-66 1857-58 1864-66 1857-66 1858-66 1866 1866 1863-66 1864-66 1857-66 1864-66 1864-66 Appendix. 521 of our country to 98° or 100°, tlie real troubles and tlifficnlties of a cheese-maker begin to be experienced ; and tainted milk, that worst of all forms of milk, is met with, I believe, only when the thermometer nuiiks a mean temperature for the day of over 70\ The preceding table, prepared with care, and compiled with a great deal of labor, shows the highest temperature, the lowest degree, mean annual temperature, mean temperature of summer, mean temperature of winter (counting four months, June^July, August and September, as summer, and four months, December, January, February and Marcii, as winter), the mean temperature of two spring mouths, the mean of two fall months, tlie mean«annual rain fall, the mean temperature of each of the four months, June, July, August and September, and the mean rain of all these four warmest months, at some thirty-four different stations, beginning in tlie Northeast part of Vermont and Western Massachusetts, extending through New York, Nortiierii Ohio, Southern Mich- igan and in the Northern part of Illinois, one station in Cincinnati, in Southern Ohio, Louisville, Ky., and Clarksville, Tennessee. COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF MILK IN GALLOSiS, CARRIED ON THE ERIE RAILWAY, FOR THE YEARS 1861, 1863, 1863, 1864 and 1865. January.... Febriiai-y.. March A pril May June July August September . October November . December. Total 5,967,770 1862, do 186S, do 1861, do 1865. do 1862. 389,085 372,297 448,525 501,000 613.992 641,877 689,915 652,975 556.050 509,107 407,192 394,920 6,180.537 1863. 398,295 384,917 409,755 550,722 715,500 780,853 782,845 796,092 671,995 604,673 492,992 423,805 7,078,455 1864. 393,995 413,277 521,430 582,657 755,087 815,975 808,065 780,577 640,587 611.343 516,920 456,825 7,296,740 1865. 432,337 410,687 540,902 630,865 809,195 935,972 941,667 871,332 733,760 640,753 528,470 490,256 7,956.189 EECAPITULATIGN'. 1861, total gallons e.aRtmn 1Rfi2 An ' O,9b7,770 ^**"'- "^"^ 6,180,537 7,078,455 7,296,740 7,956,189 DAIRY PRODUCT OP THE STATE OF OHIO AND THAT OP HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y. The statement is made on the authority of the Ohio Farmer that for the past ten years there lias been a gradual decline in the dairy products of that State. The statistics given show that in 1860 there was a larger amount of cheese and butter made in the State thau in 1868. These statistics are as follows : OHIO DAIRY PRODUCT. Pounds Butter. Po'nds Cheese. Pounds Butter. Po'nds Cheese. 1860 38.440,498 35,442,858 34,065,629 31.121,275 31,141,876 24,816.424 20,637,253 20,752,097 19,1.30,750 18,097,095 1865 32,4,50,139 36,344,608 34,8.33,445 37,005,378 1861 1866 1862 1863 1867;;;;;;;;;;:;;;;;;;; 19,985;486 1864 17,814,599 HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y., DAIRY PRODUCT. 1864 1865 1866.... Pounds Butter Po'nds Cheese 492,673 313,7.55 232,961 16,767,999 16,808.,S,52 18,172,913 1867. ISfiS. 18:9. Pounds Butter. Po'nds Cheese 204,.3g5 241,682 204,634 16,772.031 15,7.34.920 15,570,487 522 Appendix. Price got for making .... « " a ^ th O 1-1 1-1 « Ot-I T— 1 - « ie' . ej c5 " • 00 •^\« : \^^ . COt-N . CO©? T-l . TH CJ O'i Pounds of milk to one of 9.74 9.8 9.8575 '9.3 " 9.67 9.975 9.885 9.78 Pounds of milk to one of i> t- ; OS : ; ; ; ; ; : ; : r ; ; Percent, of shrinkage.. i 00 • • • '• '. '. Average weight dry CO tH CO • ■* »o •' • 10 100 • »o 00 • • • • • CO CO • • • CO CO . • • T— 1 Size of cheese 15&18 15 & 9 16 inches 15«fcl0 20 15 & 22 20&15 18 15 15 22 15 15 Average price per pound ^\ a '. : loosooio^oco CO .^.. OS , cojoiocoj>co coos CO cd»d' -^ . loioco'ioioco £>ic r-' TH r-l . T-l . T-l T-l 1-1 T-l tH T-l T-l T-l Pounds of cured cheese. OS 0-*0 , (M CO CO IC CO CO CO T-l OS 00 Oi-lt- t» CO , *2 CO__CO_lO^O\00_^C5 OS OS t- w Gallons of milk 186,135 109,574 212,083 313,739 206,324 273,801 Pounds of milk 1,192,740 2,519,228 1,408,892 2,V2'5,i45 2,023,373 3,011,817 1,847,830 1,837,750 Average number of cows 00 T-l 10 • JO -OO -o • coo 2 £;?>; ■ <^ 2 •S'^ -^ • '^^ ^ COlO- ^ -OOIO-OO- £-CO Whole number of cows. . S £: "^ ^ '^ cocoGo -oo 00 2 S":S <^ S- csoo-oo CO1-1 ■* 00 -co ■Tti io OS CO • OS T-l 00 J> o 1 Hi Summit County.. Fowler's Mills, Geauga Co. . .. Bainbridge, do. . Thomson, do.. Huntington, Lo- raine Co Mecca, Trumbull Co CI arid on, Geauga Co Auburn, do.. Troy, do. . Huntsburg, do. . 3-eauga Co Leroy, Lake Co. Cliautauqua Co., N. Y Arkwright, do. . O . BiJ i2! Twinsburg Bartlett's Slhanliope's Smith's J. M. Clark's.... Slia.vv'fi Armstrong's. .. . Cliester X Roads Carter's Sinclairville Appendix. 523 CHEESE ST^-TISTICS. The following tables in relation to the product of cheese made at different factories of New York and the price at which it sold-going over a series of years from 1863 to lb71- wiU be found useful. They are taken from the official reports of the factories sent tothe Secretary of the American Dairymen's Association, and printed in the annual transactions of that Society fi'om year to year : CONDENSED KEPOKTS. The following Table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese, average mice, fnd averfige pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the several factories from 'which full reports have been received for the year 1864 : Name of factory. McLean Adams Cheese Blodgett Mills GUbert Mills Oneida Cheese Hart Oneida Cheese Roberts' Wood worth '3 Higginsville Peckaport Frankfort • • : Herkimer County Union Manns ville Parker's Center Brook C. H. Curtiss' Decatur • .••;;••• VVallkill Creamery Association Philadelphia Week's Daniels' Holmesville Miller's « Collins Hawleyton Coal Creek Stevens Charleston Nelson West Schuyler Springfield Center Mile Strip West Exeter Brookfleld Orwell North Litchfield Deansville Deerfield and Marcy Stanley's Scriba East Berkshire Ingraham & Hustis' Whitesto wn Turin Sears' Loraine Brown's Canton B. N. Carrier's Westcott's Location and County. McLean, Tompkins Adams, JelTerson Cortlandville, Cortiand Gilbert Mills, Oswego Oneida, Madison Oneida Lake, Madison Oneida, Madison Floyd, Oneida Yorkshire, Cattaraugus Higginsville, Oneida Eaton, Madison Frankfort, Herkimer Little Falls, Herkimer Mannsville, Jefferson Ward well, Jefferson Otego, Otsego Waterville, Om ida Decatur, Otsego Middletown, Orange Barber's Corners, Jefferson.. Verona, Oneida McDonough, Chenango Holmesville, do Consiableville, Lewis Collins, Erie Hawleyton, Broome Coal Creek, Herkimer Lowville, Lewis Charleston, Montgomery Nelson, Madison West Schuyler, Herkimer.... Springfield Center, Otsego... Fenner, Madison West Exeter, Otsego Brookfleld, Madison Orwell, Oswego North Litchfield, Herkimer.. Deansville, Oneida Marcy, Oneida Adams, Jefferson Scriba, Oswego Franklin, Vermont Adnms, Jefferson Whitestown, Oneida Turin, Lewis Cuyler, Cortland Loraine, Jefferson Columbus, Chenango Canton, St. Lawrence Average number of cows. Am'nt of c'd cheese made in pounds. Watertown, Jefferson. 937 TOO 290 3o0 200 i20 245 850 475 460 600 300 '256 600 400 ■536 500 400 580 851 265 475 760 335 575 550 300 360 500 200 250 375 275 1,032 400 400 too 600 600 730 770 400 375 ■466 318 302,084 142.518 71,800 110,465 119,346 65,422 174,848 " 124,284 65,776 284,543 191,702 161,980 162.000 72,010 21,945 61,140 207,634 73,100 90,401 173,691 149,131 114,246 182,111 249,008 68,660 176,000 207,121 98,101 199,884 196,916 137,866 122,105 172,894 64,999 72,567 127,275 83,094 295,115 134,050 100,744 101,539 142,518 204,025 206,a33 206,897 106,000 114,429 68,032 126,625 91,639 21.90 21.29 21.14 21.75 24.25 21.70 21.70 21.33 20.07 18.80 20.00 24.00 23.09 22.70 19.68 2i!25 22.00 Av'e price Av'e lbs. per ft., in milk for cents and one cured fractions. cheese. 9.60 23.09 9.95 21.00 10.12 18.96 10.10 13.32 9.87 21.42 10.-30 21.05 9.94 22.17 23.00 9.51 21.81 9.75 20.50 9.91 21.23 9.43 22.43 9.88 23.06 10.01 21.50 9.85 25.00 9.23 22.54 10.18 9.50 2i!68 10.26 21.31 9.59 • 19.50 9.75 20.62 9.80 22.77 9.64 20.73 9.85 21.80 18.80 10.00 21.60 10.16 22.25 9.84 19.69 9.78 9.71 9.97 9.85 10.07 8.31 10.00 9.90 10.38 10.26 9.90 9.35 10.00 9.95 10.05 9.58 9.93 9.72 9.64 9.76 9.59 9.52 524 Appendix. The following table gives the average number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera J price, and average pounds of milk to one of cured cheese for the seS factoS Irom which full reports have been received for ihe year 1865 • idcioues Name of Factobx. Whitesb'iro Willow Grove. Location and Countt. Whitesboro. Trenton, Oneida, do . chSfe:;::::::::::;:;::::::::-:- g^lf^dPatent, do Foster's Weeks' Rathbun's Herkimer County Union Starkville West Schuyler Herkimer Oneida Lamunion'& C., No. Z..... Hunt's House ville , \ High Market ',\ Millers Hall's ;.■;;; Rees' Barker's .'..'.' SouthvUie Olin's ■.;■.■, Volney Center Prattville Gilbert's Mill East Sandy Creek Pans, do Ourhamville, do . Verona, do Stittville, do Little Palls, Herkimer..'! Starkville, do West Schuyler, do ..'.'.'. Herkimer, do Oneida Castle, Madison . . Stockbridge. do Hubbardsville, do .. Houseville, Lewis.... High Market. do Constableville, do Barnes' Corners, do Martlnsburgh, do ... Richville, St. Lawrence. Sduthville, do ... Canton, do Volney Center, Oswego! ! ! Prattville, do . Gilbert's Mills, do Average number of cows Am'nt of c'd cheese made in pounds. ^ast feandy creek E. Sandy Creek, do PdHcer s. Wardwell, Jefferso Rfnf"i"'j?'^^-; Henderson. do Bunfoy&Co.'s Loraine, F"',o" v-^---, Watertown, Ingrahani & Co.'s lAdams. Cayiidutta Charleston Pou Jr Corners. Springfield Center ,. Smith's Center Brook ! McLean Association Preeville Union Burnham's Canadawa Coon's (4) Throopsville Simpson's Beattie's ! ! ! ! ! Holmesville !!!!! Brown's Mai lie Michigan Creamery..!!!!!! waiikiii ; Worcester Co. Association East Berkshire Mason s Bartlett's Baker's Dairy !.'.' do do Adams, do B'onda, Montgomery...!" Charlest'n 4 Cor., do Spring. Center, Otsego. . . . West Exeter, do . Otego, do . . ' McLean, Tompkins Freeville, do . Sinclairville, Chautauqua! Ark Wright, do Mina& Sherman, do Throopsville, Cayuga New Hudson, Allegany. Trnxton, Cortland Holmesville, Chenango... Columbus, do Maine, Broome ., Middletown, Orange .. Middletown. do ! VVarren, Massachusetts..!! East Berkshire, Vermont.. Richmond, do Fowler's Mills, Ohio ! Fairfield, Michigan 600 206.567 6S8 275,270 432 168,592 600 169,71 J 250 74,146 500 174,110 650 206,000 580 226,017 580 168,037 1,000 401,884 490 190,538 525 191.681 350 118,171 400 135.552 800 257.029 460 148,981 750 261,364 5fi0 125,752 150 .58,680 640 181,465 100 45,060 354 106,227 200 46,886 400 116,1.54 340 131,042 1,000 292,494 400 140, 18;} 135 66,847 800 220,865 ITO 42,453 875 262,800 845 323,436 600 ]83,r,84 443 141,130 500 182,951 100 30.696 1,300 566,211 650 237,836 793 186.9,50 650 187,909 1,350 4911,000 450 125.000 300 77,198 600 222,453 0.50 219,0.34 500 179,206 200 39.560 92,000 87,ei86 450 ].31,.379 800 233,351 80 29,600 071 255,.S90 46 29,440 Av'e price Av'e lbs. per »., in I milk for cents and one cured fractions, cheese, 27,756 17.25 16.12 ]5!96 16,00 15.89 16.27 16.50 ]6!66 16.05 16.09 16.00 15.43 15.60 15.. ■)8 16.01 14.55 15.41 14.50 15.17 15.25 15.00 14.70 15.25 14.64 15.25 16!25 15!66 15.61 15.60 15.12 15.75 17.45 10.05 9.75 9.42 9.53 10.43 9.99 9.68 9.91 9.90 9.61 0.99 9.79 9.74 9.91 9.50 9.21 9.35 9.63 9.29 9.43 9.45 9.44 9.87 10.00 9.84 10.44 9.87 9.99 10.03 9.73 10.10 9.81 10.00 10.64 10.02 9.77 10.10 9,452,567 17!(;6 15.93 9.78 9.88 9.78 15!66 16.07 15.25 16.00 15.50 , 16.00 9!69 9.82 9.84 9.66 9.75 15., S3 ^7.00 l()!i7 9.50 15.60 16.60 9.80 15.76 9.81 The following Table gives the number of cows, amount of cured cheese avera-e nrice average pounds of milk to one of cured clieese and averncrp wt;^ ,f= r ^^ l^ ' . several Factories, Iro.n which full Eeports haveS Scdved.'JS'the^ear' ImT Name of Factory. Whitesboro A. nine's Roberts' , Dorn's Chuckery , Weeks' Cedarville First National Lamunion & Clark's .Stockbridge, Madison &"'^'i^.- Hubbardsville, do g^^celsior Brookfleld, do ••^^P^re I Florida, Montgomery.. LOCTIOJf AND COTJNTT. Whitesboro, Oneida . North Gage, do Floyd, Ava, Paris, Verona, .. Cedarville, Herkimer! Frankfort, do do do do do Whole number of Cows. 865 140 275 350 590 620 575 650 400 600 300 260 Shri'k- age. Per ct. 3 3^ i% Amount of cured cheese made, in pounds. 311.881 59,277 82,100 96,716 168,561 212,975 233,802 259,064 118,412 183,479 97.000 77,784 Aver. price ^ B)., in cts. and fract'ns 18.07 17.58 17.41 17.54 17.92 17. ,32 17.02 17.50 17.91 17.25 17.25 Aver w't. Aver. lbs. milk for one cured cheese 9.8 Appendix. Table for 1866.— Continued. 525 NAME OF Factory. Charlei 17 16 15K 15>i 16 17 17 17 17 17 16K 16 14K 14X 14:^ 14K 14>^ 14^ 14Ji UVi uy, 14K 14 14 14 14 14 14K U% It^ 15 15!4 15M 15 5^ 16 16 16 16K 16>^ 16 V^ 16M Price of Gold. 122 121% 120=^ 121 120% 119K 118^ 115>g 112 112 lll>i lUH 113K myt 115 115 115 114X lU}i lU'A 113>i 113 111 112 112 116^ 119K 121K 121X 117M 114^ 11651 114 114 114 113 114 113K 113K 113 lll>i m% lUX 112?^ 111?^ lUK 110^ 110^ noji 110^ 1871. Receipts. Exports. Price in liiv'rpool. Price in N"w York. Price of Gold. 7 9,574 4,870 6,468 2,385 5,414 4,5.)3 3,967 2,993 5,3,30 5.938 6,927 8,012 6,856 3,519 4,092 2,860 3,608 3,636 5,164 9,141 16,029 22,&30 26,580 43,258 48,799 47,517 46,345 56,478 (57,679 59,986 7,150 6,685 6,C85 9,722 9,459 9,130 11,174 17,653 8,344 9,365 8.364 9,671 4,381 10,661 10,062 8,178 7,559 7,559 10,062 11,698 16,927 20,472 23,742 37,,543 37,293 45,533 41,.340 55,869 63,420 61„321 73s. V3s. 73s. 733. 723. 72s. 72s. 72s. 71s. 71s. 6d. 71s. 6d. 703. 70s. 70s. 69s. 693. 69s. 69s. 66s. 6d. 663. 643. 633. 61s. 6d. 60s. 593. 58s. 563. 553. 533. 52s. 16 cts. 16 16 16 16 16 16 16X 16 16 15 15 15 14 14 15 14 13 13 13 12M 11^ IIK 11 110 j^ 14 110^ 21 110 ¥ 28 110 ff y 4 lUK ^ 11 ::...:::::::.::::::::;: lUK 18 lUK 25 lUM 4 111 11 lllK 18 m% April 25 1 il?^ 8 IWA 15 mx 22 UlM 29 lllJi May 6 UIK 13 lUX 20 112 27 111^ June 3 10 112M n2% 17 112% 24 112>^ July 1 8 113 15 112% 22 29 112 112K 530 Appendix. We take the following from the Farmers' and Meclianics' Manual:— "The milk of nearly all animals contain the same ingredients. The best known varieties consist nearly of j Caseine Butter Milk Sugar... Saline Matter Water Woman. 1.5 3.6 6.5 0.5 4.5 3.1 4.8 0.6 87.0 100.0 1.8 0.1 6.1 0.3 91.7 100.0 Goat. 4.1 3.3 5.3 0.6 86.7 4.5 4.2 5.0 0.7 85.6 100.0 " One gallon o^pure water weighs nearly 8^^ pounds avoirdupois, hence a pint weighs about a pound. One quart of milk, wine measure, weighs 35 ounces. One quart of milk beer measure, weighs 41 ounces." ' LIST OF CHEESE AND BUTTEE FAOTOEIES, AS REPORTED TO AMERICAN DAIRYMEN'S ASSOCIATION, IN 1871. N-R-W YORK.-94G FACTORIES. ONEIDA COUNTY.- 94 FACTORIES. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. RoraeC. M. A Rome 650 Excelsior. do 6U0 Greenflelil's do Cady's do 30O D. U. Carpenter's do 600 Dick's do Squires' Delta RidKe Mills Ridge Mills 300 T. D. Roberts'... .. do 300 E. Lewis' Deerfleld 900 Tanner's Oriskany 700 Mitchell's Remsen 200 Thomas' :.. do 400 StarrHill do 100 Weeks' Verona 600 Bmrell's do 400 Verona Centr.al do 325 Willo w Grove Trenton 1,000 W.W.Wheeler's do 350 J.C.Owen's do 650 Powell's do Whitaker's do 250 Wight's Wh i tesboro 900 Bagsf's StittviUe TOO Deei-fleld & Marcy Utica 400 South Corners Vienna 400 Vienna, do 350 West Vienna West Vienna • Blossvale Blcssvale 406 Glenmore Annsville 500 Bagg's H'jUand Patent 500 J. G. Cotes' do 400 J.F.Pierce's do 550 G.W. Palmer's North Brldgewater... 600 Deans villc Deansville I'OO Hill's Westernville 200 Williams' do 200 Waldo's do 350 Kirklanil Kirkland 300 Wallace's West Branch 400 Countrvman's do J. L. Dean's. Hecla 200 Lowell Lowell 600 Wood s Lee Center 500 Saxton's do 300 Charton's do 400 Capron's do . — • Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Northwestern C. M. A Northwestern (Mil's do Bionson's do Verona Landing Higginsville 400 Doxtater's do 250 L. S. Davis' Florence 500 Cold Spring do 400 MadRiver do 250 Vernon Vernon 720 Clark's do 50O M. Snell do 300 Bionson & Co Vernon Center 300 West Canada Creek North Gage 500 A. Blue's do 150 J.C.Blue's do 700 Briggs' Marcy Hill Wood's Turin Shepard's do Franklin Franklin Iron Works . Camp's Westmoreland Cheney's.,. do Hampton C. M. A do Marshall's Watervillo Curtis' do Sh earman's New Hartford Hampton Stanwix Schuyler's do Foster's Durhamville J. H. Brook's Steuben Chuckery Paris 450 Wilcox do A. S. King's Sauquoit A. Session's. do A.Tucker's do S. Thomas' Cassville E. A. Palmer's Clayville Union Grove Camden Harvey's Boon ville Reed&Co do 500 ICnoxboro Knoxboro 400 Rath bun's New London 400 NowLondonC. M. A do 300 Ray's North Bay Spinnings' Taberg , G. M. Wood's Stokes Hurlburt's Ava Jones' do 500 400 350 500 700 250 500 500 300 425 590 250 300 200 150 AVAYNE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES. Walworth Walworth 300 Butler Center South Butler 240 Williamson Williamson Palmy la Palmyra Safford's Sava nnah 175 South Butler South Uutler Macedon Macedon 300 Wilbur's Newark Lincoln West Walworth Marion Marion Lee & Sheffield Rose 400 Allowaf Lyons 500 Naing's do CHENANGO COUNTY.— 24 FACTORIES. Tuttle Col umbus Hira ra Brown's do A. R. Sage's New Berlin Center. Holmes & Co.'s Columbus George Buel's King Settlement... Sherburne Sherburne Smyrna Smyrna Billings' do Plymouth Plymouth Buckley & Co.'s Oxford Harrisville Sherburne White & Son's do 230 Lewis Andrews South Otsellc 400 Holmesville Holmesville 800 Daniels' McDonough 600 Ijincklaen Lincklaen 600 Wheeler's do 700 Harrington do Norwicn C. M. Co Norwich Frink's do Leach's do Sage's South New Berlin. 350 Rich's do Brown, Sage & Co do 650 600 500 532 Appendix. CORTLAND COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES. ^ame of Factory. Location. JVb. of Cows, Cuyler Village Cuyler 600 Cold Spring do 300 Isbell's do 250 Keeler's do 200 CnylerHill do 450 New Boston do 630 li. Sears' DeRuyter 1,000 Kenney Truxton 400 Beattie's do 400 Blodgett's Mills CortUand vlUe 300 East Homer East Homer 450 Wightman's Marathon - — - Potter i& Barber's Scott 300 Name of Factory. Location. JVb. of Cows. Blodgett Mills Blodgett Mills. Raymond's Freble Kilt's do Homer C. M. (^o Homer Tattle's Freetown ..'.'. Cincicnatus Cincinnatus South Cortland S' iu*h Cortland Meecham's Marathon Brown's Taylor Keeney Settlement Keeney Settiement!!! Whitmarsli do H. H. Smith's Apulia Har 1 ord Harford '..'.'. OSWEGO COUNTY.— 58 FACTORIES. M. Pierce's South Richland 300 Gilbert Mills GilbertMills 430 Dick's Pennellville Volney Center Volney 310 Whittemore's Scriba 500 Insell & Smith's Volney . '. 375 East Sandy Creuli East Sandy Creet Robbins & Co.'s do 600 Suydam's do 400 Trumbull's Pulaski 270 Hull's do 300 Cold Spring do 300 Jones' South Richland 400 J.. Willis do 300 Blunt's Orwell 150 Union Colosse 400 Union Mexico 500 Weygint's Pratville 5:30 Banaska's Ph oenix Morton's Orwell 600 Sweet's Phoenix ■ Smith's Hastings Hastings C. M. Co do Oswego Center Oswego Center 400 Bowen's Corners Bowen's Corners • ■ Wilcox's Oswego Falls West Monrf)e C. M. A West Monroe ■ Titus & Wilson Hannibal Gardner's South Hannibal • Fairdale Fairdale McMullen's Hinmanville Mead's East Sandy Creek. Bander's Caughdenoy Smith's New Haven Daggett's do Donnelly's North Scriba Southwest Os" ego Vermill ion Vermillion Smith's Volney Hubbard's Jennings' Palermo East Scriba Sweet's Schroeppel Gregg's do First National - Phoenix. Central Square Central Square.. West Slanual Granby Center Rhodes Scriba Union Sandy Creek Union .. Scriba Amboy Amboy Corners . Smith's Fulton „ . Looniis' Palermo Clough & Co.'s Constantia Cold Spring Richland P. Wyman's Orville Burr's Molino 200 400 400 ~50ci 50G 250 lUfl ?6fl 472 13fl 250 22(3 150" 230 325 200 MADISON COUNTY.— 65 FACTORIES. Norton's Eaton Morse's do 600 Ingram's West Eaton 500 Pecksport Bouckville 4;0 Erieville Erieville . Seymour's Lebanon Smith Valley Hill's Oneida Castle Cazenovia Cazenovia C. Bridge do Blodgett's do Perkins' do Canaseraga Canaseraga Elphick's Clock ville North Cazenovia Chittenango Falls. Chittenango do Lebanon Leonardsville , Allard's Georgetown Quaker Basin do Torpy's do Mack's do Brown & Co.'s do Beech&Co.'s do Fletcher's do Stafford's Penner Solsville Solsville Pine Woods Pine Woods Baker's Eitrl ville Chenango Valley do Cowasalon Wampsville Hunt's Hamilton Keith 's — North Brookfleld. . . East Boston East Boston 700 400 600 700 600 450 500 300 500 150 300 150 im 500 J75 200 300 700 (00 300 Chapman's Oneida Late Hart's do Morrell's do Cole's Munnsville ...'.'.'.'. Linckhi en DeRuyter DeRuyter do Kirkv'lle Kirk ville '. Fletcher's Peterboro Val ley Stockbridge Adam's do New Woodstock New Woodstock'.! Hunt's Hubbardsville. . . . Lamunion & Co Morrisville Morrisville do Nelson's Nelson .' Ellison's Brookfleld Excelsior do York do Union do South Brookfleld South Brookfleld. Bridgeport Bridgeport Lakewood v do Fort Bushnell's Lakeport Gifford's do Tucker's Mile Strip Lenox C. M. A Canastota Merrill's Madison MadisonC. M.A do Siloam Siloam Pratt's Hollow Pratt's Hollow... Shedd's Corners Shedd's Corners.. Downing's Pine Woods 250 150 350 300 600 500 760 450 600 200 400 600 600 200 350 225 200 250 300 273 400 JiOO 500 400 250 SCHUYLER COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. Cook & Co.'s Havana . A Ipine Alpine. DUTCHESS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. Sheldon's Stissing . FRANKLIN COUNTY.— 6 FACTORIES. Bombay Bombay Fort Covington Center Ft. Covington Center. Malone No. 1 Malone Sargent's South Bangor Fort Covington Fort Covington Patterson Chateaugay Appendix. 533 LEWIS COUNTY.-39 FACTORIES. laocation. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Name of Factory. Sulphur Springs Lowville 800 FoUs' do 750 Hall's Biirnes Corners 200 Miller's Constableville 1,000 Wilder's do McDonald's do Valley do iaO High Market High Marl;et ;... 460 Houseville Huuseville 800 Glensdale Glensdale 700 Sugar River Ley den 940 Wood's Turin 400 Bush's do 500 Shepherd's do 230 Williams' do 150 Evans' do 550 Carpenter's HouReville 150 Rees' Martlnsburgh 200 Dunton's do 350 New Bremen Crogan Location. No. of Coiua. Union West Martinsburgh. . . Green's do Kelsey's do West Lowville West Lowville Searles' do Alexander do Vary Harrisburgh Clark's do Lanpheie's do Knapp's do Union Deer River Deer River do Austin Denmark Markham's Collinsville Lyon's Lyon's Falls Leyden C. A Leyden Post's Port Leyden Whitney's Copenhagen Bent's do MONTGOMERY COUNTY.-36 FACTORIES. Charleston Four Corners. .Charleston Four Cor.. C25 Smith Creek B'ort Plain 1,000 Dunkle's do ■ Roof's do Empire Burtonville 500 Florida do Hallsville Hallsville 600 Freysbush Freysbush Hessville Sprout Brook • Cold Spring Stone Araba 500 Water ville Ames 750 Flat Creek Flat Creek 300 Brookman & Co.'s Fort Plain 600 Ford's Bush Minden 675 Cayadutta Fonda 800 Bates, Sneli & Co St. Johnsville 350 Snell, Smith & Co do Humphrey's Charleston Root Root Wier's do Glen Glen Dief endorf s Amsterdam W.Green's do Dorn's do Florida Minaville S witzer Hill Fonda Schuyler's do Mohawk do Cold Spring Palatine Bridge. Union do Failing's do Gatesville Randall Mother Creek St. ,1 ohnsville Buel Buel Mapletown Kilts' Canajoharie ORLEANS COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. Cooley & Thompson's Albion. STEUBEN COUNTY.— 8 FACTORIES. Spalding's Howard . . Bennett's do Kanona Kanona .. Wing's Campbell . 400 J. Davis' Greenwood 500 Mason's North Cameron , 300 Spalding & Co Avoca — - Sitterly 's Bath ONONDAGA COUNTY.— 32 FACTORIES. L. H. Webster's Fabius 500 Delphi Delphi 450 Salisbury's Apulia 600 Alexander's Lysander Edwards' Manlius Hopper's CoUumer 160 Hiscock's James ville Seneca Bald wins ville 150 Spafford Spafford Loomis' Cicero Van Bramer's do Sternberg's Cicero Center S. L. Vail's Delphi ■ Elbridge Elbridge 400 Abbott &Rodgers' TuUy Marvin's ..Jack's Rifts 500 400 450 800 500 300 690 GOO 500 270 450 YOJ 400 550 400 250 600 400 600 250 400 Belle Isle Belle Isle — - Sherwood's Brevverton DeWittC. M. A DeWitt 300 Talbot Fabius 400 Euclid Euclid ■ Navari n o Navarino 140 Kirkville Kirkville 450 Goodrich's Otisco 200 Little Utlca Little Utica 300 Betts' Ciirners Betls' Corners Cole Settlement Fabius 150 Block do Southard's Pompey Center Palmer C. M. A Oran 250 Plain ville Plain ville 400 Youngs .: Euclid Piatt's Plattsburg . . . . Rouse's Point Rouse's Point CLINTON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. .. • — • Smith Dale Peru. COLUMBIA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. Hudson Hudson . Chatham Chatham Center . MONROE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES. Genesee Valley Sonyea . Riga Riga ... Mendon Mendon . Perinton Fairpurt . Cold Spring West Farmington Flint Creek Flint Creek ONTARIO COUNT Y.-3 FACTORIES. 450 East Bloomfleld East Bloomfleld. FULTON COUNT Y.-8 FACTORIES. Stuart's Oppenhelm Center Fulton do Cross Roads Johnstown StoUer's do Cold Creek Brockett's Bridge • Brockett's Bridge do — Perth Center Perth Center 200 Slate Hill Ephratah 600 534 Appendix. ST. LAWRENCE COUNTY— 16 FACTORIES. Name of Factory. Location. No. oj Cows. Clin & Smead's C;inton 675 Southville aoutliville 2u0 Kichville Rich ville 640 Jones' do Potsdam Potsdam 500 Hailesboro Gouverneur 600 Sprai^iie Corners Shingle Creek 600 Russell Village Russell 500 Na7ne of Factory. Location. Beech Grove Russell West Canton Canton South Canton Crary's Mills... DeKalb DeKal b Gouverneur Gouverneur . . Pike's Shingle Creek West Fowler do Hermyn Hermon No of Cowsi oOt 45C 70C WYOMING COUNTY.— 29 FACTORIES. George Hoye's Attica • — ■ Java Village Java Vilhigre 450 North Java North Java Stryker &, Co. 'a do — - Empire Java 400 Arcade C. M. A do — - Nile Nile Bennington Bennington 400 Bast Bennington East Bennington 375 Arcade Arcade 500 Wells' do Gas til e Castile 400 Gardlant's Attica ■ Chapman's Paris Center Stephens' Dale Tnzier's Johnsonburg - Sheldon CM. A Sheldon ■ Wyoming Wyoming - Chapman's Perry ■ Hermitage - Orange ville Orangeville 600 Wilder&Oo.'s do ■ Strvkersville Strykersville ■ East Coy Pike 250 Lillibridge do ■ Empire East Pike - Oatka Gainesville - Cowlesville Cowlesville 450 Java Lake 350 NIAGARA C0UNTY.-4 FACTORIES. Sanborn C. M. Company.. .Sanborn Johnson's Creek do ...Johnson's Creek. 300 Mlrtdleport Middleport , J. C. Francis' do BROOME COUNTY.-5 FACTORIES. Maine Maine Hawley ton Hawloy ton. Killawog Killawog . . . 250 Squires Center Kirkwood ■ Page Brook Valley North Fenton. WASHINGTON C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES. North Bend North Granville.. North Bend Middle Granville. Granville Granville Fort Ann Fort Ann • South Granville South Granville.. 250 Middle Gran ville Middle Granville. 450 Greenwich Greenwich • Hawley's Ford Edward JEFFERSON COUNTY.— 72 FACTORIES. Adams Adams Alexander's Henderson ■ Antwerp Antwerp 950 A y ers Waterto wn ■ Babcock's Champion Barber's Philadelphia Bonfoy & Bettinger Mannsville • Belleville Belleville Bent Antwerp B. P. Smith Black River Brownville Brownville 400 Brown Water to wn Benjamin & Co.'s Camp's Mills Carter Street Stone Mills Cascade Rutland Champion Village Champion Cooper's Evans' Mills..., ■ ■ Cold Spring Waterto wn — - Cold Spring Belleville • Cold Spring Roberts' Corners Campbell's South Rutland 150 Dry Hill Watertown Davis' Smith ville Eames' Rutland 250 East Rodman East Rodman ■ Earll Carthaj;e Ellisville Bllisburgh Evans Mills Evans Mills 1,000 Excelsior Perch River Excelsior South Champion Farr Pierrepont Manor.... 225 Foreman's Woodville • — - Griswold & Reed Lorraine Gardner's Watertown Grinnell & Co Pierrepont Manor 300 Hadsall's Felts Mills ■ — • Heath's Adams Center Hamlin Rutland Harper's Ferry Rutland Center Henderson Henderson , Howard Stone Mills Lorraine Central Ijorraine Li merick Dexter Leffing well's Henderson Mannsville Mannsville Maple Grove Lorraine M uscallonge Dexter Mnzy's Smith ville Pillar Point Dexter Philadelphia Philadelphia Pitkin's Lorraine Rodman Rodman Rodman Branch Burrville Rogers' EUisburgh Rogers' Lorraine Rutland Valley Watertown Sherman's Watertown Springer's Redwood Smith ville Smithville South Champion South Champion Springside Dexter Sterlingbusli Antwerp Tifft's Lorraine Timmerman's Orleans Four Corners. Warner Adams Center Westcott Watertown Whitesville East Rodman Wicks Antwerp Wil son Waterto wn Wright Depau ville Woodville Woodville Worth Worth ville 27a 600 .100 135 325 300 300 300 775 GENESEE COUNTY.— 11 FACTORIES. Batavia Union Batavia Batavia C. M. A do Byron Byron Rich ville Pembroke . Linden Linden Stafford Stafford . . . Darien Center Darien Center. Oakfleld Oakflel d West Bethany West Bethany. East Bethany East Bethany. Poster's Batavia SCHENECTADY COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. Mariaville Mariaville Rotterdam Appendix. 535 Name of Factory. Ballston Ballston Center Empire South. Gal way . . SARATOGA COUNTY.-* FACTORIES Location. Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory. Location. Galway Galway . . . Charltuu ■. Charlton . No. of Cown. ORANGE COUNTY.-43 FACTORIES. Circlevllle 400 Coilaburgh 225 Kockville Mlddletown 20J Unionville 250 Walkill Association 375 D. Mulloclc's Middletown 250 Orange Co. AI. A Michigan 550 do do Chester 325 Gouge & Co Hamptonburgh 600 Bates & Co do 250 Gouije & Youngs' Florida 400 T.J. Taylor's do 175 Carpenter Howell Amity 415 do Warwick 350 Sanford & Smith do 300 H. Milburn do 250 T. Durhind do 150 Brown, Bailey & Co Edenville 400 Foster Clark's Wiokiiam's Pond 350 W. H. Clark & Co Minisink 300 Barton Spring ...Monroe 100 Parlor Bl ooming Grove Wood's Chester 200 Kidd's Walden J. F. Vail & Co • 450 Brown, Lane & Co 250 Wawanda 375 J. B. Halsey & Co 300 E. Bull's Chester 150 Bankers Brother's do 200 F.Davis' do 225 P. Holbert's Middletown 275 Mapes & Co do 425 James Hulse do 250 Wm.Mead&Co do 250 Christee & Co Unionville 300 O. F.Green Greenville 300 H. Rearaey do 125 Finchville Otisville 375 J. A.Wood Slate Hill 200 Howell & Co Monroe 400 Sugiir Loaf Sugar Loaf 550 Union Cond'sed Milk Co..NewMilford GREENE COUNTY.— 4 FACTORIES. Towner's Jewett. Hunter'3 Creamery Jewett. Smith's Ashland. Kirkland Durham. ALLEGANY COUNTY.-44 FACTORIES. Simpson's New Hudson ( Reservoir Seymour ( Rushf ord Rush ford 1,( Forsythe's Whitesville ! S. Sherman & Co Nile : Richburg Rich burg. . , : Curtis' do - D. T. Burdick's Alfred ■ Greene's do - Friendship Friendship ■ Center ville Centerville • Ackerley's Rushf ord i Barns' Fill more ' Andover Andover Black Creek BlackCreek Oramel Oramel Niel Wellsville Wellsville I Lyndon Cuba ' Pettibone's Alfred - Dodge's Creek Portville - Jackson's Belmont - Morley 's Whitney's Crossing. . Flanagan 's Cole Creek . Crandall's Dodge's Corners Belvidere Belvidere Rice's do Granger Granger Little Genesee Little Genesee Carr Valley Almond A. Congdon's West Clarksville Babbit's Hume Philips' Creek Philips Creek Vandermarsh Scio R. Smith's Cuba 350 West Almond West Almond G. West's Alfred Center • • J. Wilcox's Wirt Center 150 Wiscoy Wiscoy 200 Genesee Little Genesee 120 Elm Valley Andover 150 Angelica Angelica Clean Olean 350 McHenry Valley Alfred Center 300 400 250 350 450 275 YATES COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. Italy Hollow C. M. A Italy Hollow ERIE COUNTY.-54 FACTORIES. Stickney's Collins 1,100 W. G. Huntington Pontiac 800 North Concord Concord First Collins 800 Collins Center Collins Center 1,100 Brant Center Brant 550 Marshfleld Collins Center 1,100 Morton's Corners Morton's Corners. Richmond & Co.'s Sardinia Glenwood Glen wood Dick & Co.'s Willink North Collins Shirley Kirby's Shirley Young's Alden Wheelock's Gowanda Gowanda Staffin's Collins W. Smith's — Ballard's He nl er Gran d Islan d Cotesworth Grand Island. North Boston Boston Center Golden Colden Marilla Mnrilla Kimball's LancastPr Cheese M. A Spring Brook. 600 500 400 350 Boston Boston 400 Concord Center Woodward's Hollow.. 500 Wales Wales 450 Paxton's Eden 600 Sisson 's Shirley 600 North Evans.- North Evans 500 Angola Angola 360 Brant Collins 400 Springville Springville 1,200 Blakelev's East Aurora Jackson's East Hamburg 300 Hamburg Hamburg 300 North Evans North Evans 250 East Evans East Evans 300 Eden Corners Eden Corners 350 North Concord North Concord 600 Sardinia Valley Sardinia Valley 450 Newton Sardinia 250 Hosmer's do WalesCenter Wales Center 400 Puller's do — - South Wales Wales 450 Elma do 300 Burroughs&Co do Francis Farrington's Holland • Moulton's Protection Speedsville , TIOGA COUNTY.— 2 FACTORIES. .Speedsville Jenksville .Jenksville. 536 Appendix. HERKIMER COUNTY.— 69 FACTORIES. Name, of Factory. Location. Herkimer Co. Union Little Falls. Manheim Center do Manheim Turn do Newville C. M. A do Rice, Broat & Co.'s do G.W.Davis do Cold Spring do Top Notch do Van Allen's do Fairfield Association Fairfield Old Fairfield do North Fairfield do Eatonville Eaton villa IjOcustGrove do Mohawk Valley East Schuyler Richardson's do Budlong's West Schuyler. . . Warren's Warren . . . Fort Herkimer Fort Herkimer... Bellinger's do Beckwith 's Cedarville Cold Soring do Stewart's do Howard's do Cedarville do Smith's Fran Uf ort A.G.Norton's do Frankfort Center do Russell's Russell's Hill Wetmore do D. Hawn's Stark ville Snell's Russia Nash's Frankfort Center Rider's Cedar Lake Stuart's Cedarville Ko. of Coivs. Name of Factory. Location. Ko. of Cows. 'i'OO Richardson's West Schuyler... 600 Skinner's South Columbia " 500 Kling's Paine's Hollow 860 Middleville Middleville 750 900 Northrup's Litchfield " 300 600 Kinney's do " goo -^ Walrath North Litchfield;:!'." 300 450 Van HornsviUe Van Hornsville Young's do - — Lackey's West Winfleld 900 H.C.Brown's do , 600 Wadsworth's do 600 W. Palmer's do 150 Edick's Mohawk 450 Mort's (Jo 360 J. Clark's Winfleld 300 B. Bartlett's do 400 North Winfleld North Winfleld 400 Moon's Russia. 400 Poliind Cheddar Poland 300 Herkimer Herkimer — Herkimer Union do — G.W.Pine's do — Newport Newport 300 Morey's do 800 Cook, Ives & Co.'s Salisbury — L. H. Carr's do — W. Peck's do — Old Salisbury do — Avery & Ives' Salisbury Center 300 Norway Association Norway BOO J.D.Ives' do .'.■ — Columbia Center Columbia Center — J. Russell's Graefenberg CAYUGA C0UNTY.-8 FACTORIES. Throopsville C. M. A Auburn Moravia Moravia Sennett Sennett Carpenter's New Hope. 450 Ira Ira 250 Lincoln's Conquest Center.' 400 Port Byron C. M. Co.'s. ...Port Byron Meridian Meridian OTSEGO COUNTY.— 46 FACTORIES. Wykoffs Richfield Springs 500 Bush's do E. D.Lamb's Unadilla Forks ,. 350 Center Brook Otsego 200 Stocker & Fox's Bast Springfield 600 easier & Andrews Springfield Center 450 Hartwick Hartwick , 20O Pitt Cushman's Edmeston Center 200 Col. Gardner's Burlington Flats 150 Ed. Gardner's do 150 Benj. Smith's Spooner's Corners 400 Brockway's Richfield , 400 Smith & Wilber West Exeter 400 Kly Creek Fly Creek 200 Park's Burlington Green 350 Parley Phillips' Unadilla Forks 200 Wm. L. Brown's do 200 Clark's Sch uyler's Lake 200 Edmeston Center Edmeston Center 750 Warren Chase's West Edmeston 250 Joseph King's Burlington Green 200 George Clark's Hyde Park 300 Nearing & Co.'s Butternuts Russell Bower's Exeter Perkin's do Hind's Cooperstown , Hoxie's (Jo Hoxie's Unadilla Forks.'"! R. L. Warren's East Springfield... West Burlington West Burlington Parker's South Edmeston. . Pope's do L. N. Brown's West Edmeston... Ed. Loomis' Richfield L. O. Vebber's Exeter Center H. & S. Smith's West Exeter J.H.Pratt's do Lyman Johnson Burlington Flats.. Colman's do Newel N.Talbot's do Hartwick Union Cooperstown Chamberlai n's Richfield Springs. Cherry Valley Cherry Vallev Tuttle's South Edmeston . . Rider's Schuyler's Lake.. Baker's do 400 200 300 CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES. Hamlet Hamlet 1,100 J. E. Robertson's Busti 660 Clear Spring Fredonia 700 Burnham's Sinclairville 1,049 J. S. Hulbert's Forrestville 400 Villanova Vill anova 400 Brainard's Hamlet 650 Coon's (3) Mina 1,250 do Sherman 457 Canadawa Arkwright 680 Gerry Gerry 500 Cassadaga Cassadaga 400 SCHOHARIE COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES. Sharon Center Sharon Center. Seward Valley Seward Hindsville Hindsville Gardnersville Gardnersville . Cobleskill Cobleskill 250 Argusville Argusville .. 200 Carlisle Carlisle 200 Barneyville Barneyville. Esperance Esperance .. RENSSELAER COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY, Matteson's South Berlin TOMPKINS COUNTY.— 9 FACTORIES. Dryden Union Etna Groton Groton Hollow. Ellis Hollow Ithii ca Arnold's Ithaca McLean Association McLean 600 500 700 Freeville Union Freeville Slaterviile Slaterville Peru Peru ville Ridgway Creamery Caroline Depot. 600 200 700 Appendix. 537 CATTARAUGUS COUNT y.-55 FACTORIES. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Coivs. Welch's Diiytoii Faimersville Farmersville 400 Perrysburgh Perrysburgh 550 Cook & Brotliers do Ticknor's Versailles 5U0 Napaer do Slab City Slab City J. K. Button's do Ijeon Center Leon Center Ischua Ischua ,. Randolph Randolph 200 Portvilie Portville - — First Collins Uowanda TOO Clean Clean Stebbin's Cattaraugus • Hinsdale Hinsdale ■ Waverly Waverly Cady 's Franklin ville • • Safford Kast Otto Union ElUcottville 600 Union do McMahon's do Tlffts' do 400 Meadow Valley do Crump's do ■ Little Valley Little Valley Ashford Ashford 600 Great Valley Great Valley Westville Westville Merrilly's Napuli West Ashford Ashford Hollow Lyndon Lyndon Machias Corners Machias Corners Cadiz C:idiz 850 Wood worth's Yorkshire 450 New Ashford New A shf ord 400 Maple Ridge Falrview 660 Yorkshire Center Yorkshire Center 500 Gowanda Gowanda 550 New Albion 600 Dwight's do Jenk's Gowanda 1,000 Allen's Eddyville 350 Pigeon Valley 369 Maple Grove ElUcottville 200 West Valley West Valley 400 East Ashford East Ashford 550 B:iUard 400 Follett's Machals 400 Bigelow's Ashford Lewis & Haskell's Sandusky -- — Vedder's Corners do Elton Elton 400 Gamps Ashford Hollow Kawson Rawson CHEMUNG C0UNTY.-3 FACTORIES. Bunnell & Horton's Millport 750 Van Duzer & Son's Horseheads Rundle's Horseheads OTTIO.-IOS in^CTORIES. GEAUGA COUNTY.— 26 FACTORIES. Rocky Dell Bissell's 250 Colton & Co Nelson Andrews' do 800 Spring Brook Welshfleld 300 Bartlett's Chester Cross Roads.. 800 Giove do 300 Bartlett's Muluerry Corners 300 Munson's Fowler's 400 Hood's Auburn 500 Pope's Welshfleld 500 Odell's do 600 Randall's Burton . 700 Smith's Ford 600 Hall's Claridon 400 Freeman's South Newbury 500 Armstrong's East Claridon 700 Hall's Fowler's Mills 600 Smith & Co. 's Parkman 600 Murray's Chardon 800 Armstrong's Huntsbu rgh 800 Randall's Chardon 700 Randall's Montville 800 Pope's Welshfleld 500 Murray's do 500 Russell 500 Smith's Thompson 500 PORTAGE COUNTY.— 13 FACTORIES. B. B. Higley Windham H.F.Hudson Ravenna Horr & Risden Shalersville Beman Spring Ravenna 250 H. S. Johnson Garrettsville Hinkley's Mantua Hurd & Bro Aurora Burrows Freedom Harmons & Root Aurora — — Aurora Grove Aurora 500 T. C. Bradley Mantua Anderson's Ravenna 300 I. C. Scram Ravenna ASHTABULA COUNTY.— 12 FACTORIES. S. E. &H. N. Carter Windsor 500 J. Pel ton's Wayne • Lattlmer's .'Vew Lyme Wire's Austinburgh Osborn's Morgan Weldon & Brown Conneant 400 G. C. Dolph West Andover Pierce's Eagleville ■ Austinburgh Austinburgh Harrington & Randall Morgan Morley Bros Andover Alderney New Lyme TRUMBULL COUNTV.-IS FACTORIES. J. M. Trew Farmington Baldwin's Fowler B. H. Peabody Kinsman Cortland Bazetta Cold Spring do Raymond's Mesopotamia Caldwell & Lewis West Farmington Cowdery & Craft's Bazetta Farmington Center Farmington Center... Sager & House Bristolville E. C. Cox Mesopotamia Harshman & McConnell's.Southlngton do North Bloomfleld HENRY COUNTY.-l FACTORY. Ridgeville Ridgeville Corners... FULTON COUNTY.— 1 FACTORY. Royalton Royalton LORAIN COUNTY.-S FACTORIES. Camden Cheese Co Kipton Snow's Huntington.. Mussey & Viets Elyria G. H. Van Wagnen & Co.. North Eaton. Horr & Warner Huntington Corning & Hanee Grafton Magraugh & Whitlock Wellington Penfield Wellington .. 538 Appendix. LAKE C0UNTY.-5 FACTORIES. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cows. S. E. Ctirter Leroy, Paiitesv'le P.O. Hitts Willoughby 300 H. N. Carter Perry Bartlett, & McKee South Kirtland K. Freeiuan & Co Madison • MEDINA C0UNTY.-6 FACTORIES. McDowell Bros Medina hello ws Chatham . Benedict & Brooker liitchtield . • — • Crane & Co Sharon , - — Colbetzes & Co Spencer Chatham Chatham Center. SUMMIT COUNTY. -8 FACTORIES. Twinsbnrg Cheese Ass'n. .Twinsburg. Wm. Wilcox Twinshurg. S. Straight & Co Twinsburg. do Hudson Richfield West Richfield . S. Straight «& Co Streetsboro Oak Hill Peninsula M. D. Call Hudson ASHLAND C0UNTY.-2 FACTORIES. Drake, Eaton & Co. 's Sullivan Clark & Bailey Sullivan. HURON COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. Haviland & Conant Greenwich... J. W. Jenne New London. Wakeman Cheese Co Wakeman. A. J. Lockuvood Bedford J. Q. Lander Solon . . . CUYAHOGA COUNTY.— 3 FACTORIES. Wyatt's Brecksville . ILJL,INOIS.-46 FACTORIES. Hainesville Haines ville. Lake Co. Burchard's Sumner, Ivank'ee Co. . Patterson & Mix Momence, do Wm. Keeiiey's Mantino, do W. C. Kicliards Momence, do W. A. Clark's Sherburnv'le, do Wanzer & Co Herman, Kane Co R. R. Stone's Richmond, McH. Co.. K.R.Stone's Spring Grove, do Thompson & Abbott Greenwood, do Huntley Grove Huntley, do Marengo Marengo, do Greenwood Woodstock, do Marsh & Jackson Union, do Boies ., Kingston, DeKalb Co. Sugar Grove Aurora I )unton Dun ton Kennicott do Cameron do Perry do Williams' do Gould & Hammond's Hanover Tuttle's Lodi Gould & Hammond's Elgin Barber & Co Polo Albro «& Co Wayne Win slow Shirland Kilbor's Richmond Buckland's Ring wood Jones' Hebron Conn's do Woodstock Woodstock, McH. Co. Riley Riley, do Buena Vista Huntley, do S|)ring Grove Richmond, do G;irden Prairie Garden Prairie Mead's Hebron SI ilk Condensing Co Elgin Rockton Rock ton Stuart Bros Hebron, McHenry Co. Oneida Rockf ord Belvidere Belvidere, Boone Co.. Hal e Hale, Ogle Co AVanzer's Hanover do .. Elgin Cameron Northfleld 425 300 600 400 350 3t0 400 500 KEISTTXJCKY.-S I^-A.C'JL'ORIES. Chileshurg Chilesburg, Fay'te Co. Clark Winchester, Clark Co. Shelby City Shelby City 300 300 Versailles Versailles, W'df'd Co. 200 Madison County C. M. A.. Richmond M:i]srN-ii:sox.A..-4 ih^ctories. Anderson Mower City. Wells Wells Star Rochester. Owatonna Owatonna. ^wiscoisrsiisr.— 34 e^ctories. C. H. Wilder's Evansville, Rock Co.. 400 Springvale Nanaupa Eldredge Af ton 200 Elkhorn Blkhorn 200 Rosondale Rosendale 600 Hazen's Ladoga 459 Sparta Sparta 200 Favil's Lake Mills, Jeff. Co . . . • Barrett's Burnett Station Coolidge Windsor, Dane Co • Waterville Waterville, Wauk. Co. Boynton's Wuu pun Howard's do • Johnson's do Downey's do Carpenter's Kenosha Holt's do Job n son's Kenosha Long's do Pierce & Simmons do Truesdell's do White's do Fort Atkinson Fort Atkinson Spring Mills Somers Bullock's Rockton Cold Spring Whitewater Coburn's do Drake's Lake Mills Gilbert & Co.'s Hazel Green , Tappan's Morrison Wilbur & Co.'s Wilmot Strong & Co.'s Oakfield , Cochran's Trenton, Dodge Co. Reigart & Ross Beloit Appendix. 539 MiT^SSA-CHUSETTS.— S6 in^VCXORIKS- Name of Factory. luocation. Worcester Co Wairen Union Hard wick New Braintree New Brain tree.. Barre Central Clieese Co..Barre Center Burre Cheese Co Barre Southwest do Hard wick Center Hard wick Boise's Blandf ord William.stown Williams town . . West Brookfleld West Brookfield Ijanesbciro' Ijanesboro' North Marlboro' North Marlboro' Lenox Lenox No. of Cows. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs. 500 New Lenox Lenox Cheshire Cheshire 543 Petersham Cheese Co Petersham • Clieshlre do South Adams 375 Westboro' do Westboro' 125 Lewis Milk Condensing... West Brookfleld 500 Coy's Hill Cheese Co Warren 300 South Wiliiamatown South WUllamstown.. Walker's Greenwich • ■ Dana C. M. C Dana Putnam's Belchertown Slater's TyrinKham Greylock South Adams ■verm:o:nt.-32 e"^C'jl'OK,iigs. East Berkshire East Berkshire Enosburgh Factory Co Enosburgh North Euosburgh North Knoslmrgh. East Franklin East Franklin Middleto wn Middle town Kose West Rupert West Pawlet .West Pawlet Hill Middletown West Tinmouth West Tinmouth... Norton's Wells Valentine's Tinmouth Ot»er Creek Center Kutland ... Billing's Kutland Slieldon's West Rutland Wickham's Pawlet Camp's Stowe 400 600 400 G25 475 100 125 200 Missisquoi North Sheldon. Gleason's Shrewsbury Mason's Ricliniond Valley Hinesburg East Poultney East Poultney.. WalUngf ord Wallingford .. . . Williams' Danby Rutland Rutland West Orwell Orwell East Orwell do Hosf ord's Charlotte Milron Milton Milton Falls Milton Falls .... Ferrisburgh Ferrisburgh New Haven New Haven Shoreham Shoreham 650 300 450 350 350 ]MiCH:i&Aisr.— S2 fj^^ctokies. St. Clair St. Clair Fairflel d Fairfield Horton's Adrian Hoad ley 's Oakf ord Saunders' Trenton Smith's Augusta White's Ceresco Maple Grove Farraington. Canton Canton Beal's Rollin Clayton Clayton 450 700 600 400 Spring Brook Farmington 400 Gilt Edge do 400 Ionia Ionia Reading Reading 450 Fowler & Co. 's do Adrian C. M. Co Adrian Ames' Hudson Sawin's Mattison Utlca Utica Welton's North Adams Hillsdale Hillsdale Holston . .Saltville, Smith Co.... N^ORTJI C^T?,OLI]Sr^.-l FACTORY. Elk Mountain Asheville, Bunc'e Co. 230 TEI^JSTESSEE.— 1 EA.CTORY. Stratton's Crossville, Cumb'd Co. KA.1S"SA.S.— 1 IHA^CTORY. Americus Americus Eagle Cheese Co. COlMlSrECTICXJT.-l FACTORY. .North Colebrooke r>EisriN-SYiL."VA.isriA.-i4 factories. Springville Springville, Susq. Co.. Bridgewater Bridgewater, do Gage do do .. Worth's Marshallton. Ch'tr Co. Damascus Creamery Damnscus, Wayne Co. Woodcock First Premium.Woodcock, Crawf 'd Co Woodcock Boro' Cream'y. Woodcock Boro' do 158 Venango Venango, Crawf d Co. 200 Keystone N.Bichmond, do . 80 Cambridge Rockdale, do . Ellis & Smith's Waterford, Erie Co... New Milf ord Creamery New Milford, Susq. Co 200 Spring Hill Spring Hill, Bnid. Co. 150 Earl's Carthage 360 10A^A.-'7 FACTORIES. Smith's Mason City Hickling's do Wyoming Wyoming, Jones Co , Clear Lake Clear Lake , Strawberry Point Fayette Co Kidder's Enworth, Dubuque Co Pierce's Belmond 540 Appendix. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs. Name of Factory. Location. No. of Cotvs L. B. Merrill's Merrillsville Brookman's Crown Point. . . . .' - Smith & Son's Norwich, Ox, Galloway's IngersoU, Josiah Cfollins Mount Elgin Moyers' West Zorra Adams' Nissouri, Wade's Cobourg James Harris Ingersoll, do Branch do H. Farrington's Norwich, do Branch... do Chas. Banbury's St. Mnry's Harris & Adams Mt. Elgin Ballard's Negeer"s Queensville, do Pearce's Tyrconnell, do Middlesex Bowood. do Smith & Cochrane's Compton, Pr. Quebec" 200 200 70 275 200 175 150 175 250 200 450 INDEX. PAGE. Abortion 108 Absorbing liquid manure with sawdust 83 Acid, Development of in clieese makinfr 4i3 Acidity in cream, Influence of in churning 501 Acids, Advantages of over rennet 359 — for coagulating milk over rennet 359 — Amount of required 353 — for coagulating milk 358 Agitator, Curd 407 — for stirring milk 453 Albumen 167 — in milk 322 Alderney bull 116 Alderneys as butter cows 115 — or Jerseys 114 Allgauer and Holland cows compared with other breed s 176-177 American cheese 311 — — abroad. Appearance and comparative merits of 276 — — Composition of 311 — and Cheddar processes compared 430 — dairy belt 7 Ammoniacal salts in cheese 428 Analysis of beets and turnips 98 — — leeuminous and other plants— Boussingault 85 — — milk and wliey in cheese making 336 — — poison cheese, Voel oker 474 — — skim milk and whey in skim cheese making 337 — — whey 319 — at three periods of manufacture 320 Annatto, Cheese spoiled by bad 327 — Description of 438 — Dry extract of or annattoine lu. ^uiter. 499 — Method of preparing 439 — Nicholls' 279 — — Knglish for butter 499 — Preparing at the Brockett Bridge Factory.... 439 A nnattoine 439 — Caldwell's analysis 440 — Receipt for cutting 440 Apparatus, Factory, Cost of 372 Appliances, Factory, Convenient 418 Ashes 66 — for eradicating mosses 66 Associated dairies 11 — dairying 362 — — Rise and progress of 213 Austin's agitator, Description of 454 Average product of cows 21 Ayrshires 113 — and Alderney, Crossing 115 — Crossing common stoclt with 114 Bad flavored cheese ; its cause 472 Bandages, boxes, &c 280 Bandaging machine 421 Barley, Composition of lOi Barn, Absorbing the liquid manures in 36 — A convenient dairy 32 — An excellent dairy 33 — Another style of 36 — Basement for roots 33 — Clark's dairy 617-519 — Drive floors and bays 33 — Drive-way near the peak 33 — Fodder thrown downwards 33 — horse stable and carriage house 33 — Manure sink 34 — — cellars under 32 — Meadow Brook Dairy, Description of 34 — Klevationof 34 — Ground plan 35 — Moderndairv 31 — Stables for dairy 32 — Truesdale's, The manure cellar 33 — ventilators...., 34 PAGE. Barn with four rows of stables 39 — without manure cellar 36 Barns, Dairy 31 — for cutting and steaming fodder 36 — Threshing 37 — Truesdale's, Feeding the cows 38 — — Preparing the teed 37 Beef and cheese, Relative cost of producing 12 Beets, American improved imperial sugar 96 — Cost of raising 98 — Distance between rows 97 — Harvesting 9" — Plants in a row 97 — Preparation of soil for , 96 — Sin«linK and hoeing 97 — Time of sowing 97 Blue grass 73 Boiler and engine, Another new 385 — Vertical 385 — — Jones & Faulkner's 382 — steam generator, Clark's ,3S5 Bone manure 90 Bones to grass lands. Application of 56 — How to dissolve 65 Boxing cbeese for market 479 Branch factories 377 Breaking the curds 441 Breeding from healthy animals 108 — Excessive use of the male 108 — stock. Bad habits inherited in 119 — Tainting of the mother's blood. Examples of. 109 — What is to be considered 110 Buckwheat, Composition of 104 Bulls from good milkingfamilies. Importance of thoroughbred 120 Butter, Eaters of, no such 10 — and cheese. Equalizing the supply of 11 — What constitutes good 46 — Cellars 496 — Character of good 483 — Color and texture of 485 — colored with carrots 499 — Coloring 499 — Composition of 489-500 — factory. Plan of Rockville 252 — factories. Expense and profits 240 — — System of organizing 246 — — The Orange Co 236 — — Water pools for 494 — firkins, Oak 512 — —White oak 495 — Freeing from buttermilk 484 — grasses of Orange Co 242 — Hairs in 511 — How to keep the salt for 511 — work 509 — Influence of washing 493 — in hard water districts 236 — its keeping qualities 483 — Losino' the aroma of 495 — made in New York in 1864 19 — making — American system 493 — — at Orange Co. factories 252 — the Queen's dairy 481 — — Leading principles for 482 — — milk room for farm dairies 484 — — Philosopbyof 500 — — Scotch method 498 — — Taints in 503 — manufacture 481 — — Modern method of managing milk 484 — marketing. The Captain's 246 — Ovor-working and upoiling the grain 508 — package and packing 511 — — Elmer's 513 — packages. Kind of wood for 512 542 Index. \iiA PAGE. Butter packages— Preparing for use : 513 — Faclcingof 495 — pail and firkins 254 — — Philadelphia, description of .....'. 491 — — Westcott's oak .'.'.. 513 — Percentage consumed as food .".. 20 — — manufactured, table for '."'. 22 — Philadelphia, Making of ! 4H0 — Price of in London ..'. 10 — Production of in U. S. and Territories". ". .... '. '. '. 10 — Salt— its action 5O8 — The grain of .....' '. 508 — Washing ........'. 249 — Whey, Cold process 515 — —Hot process ...'.! 514 — worker "" 509 — — Corbin's 510 — — Orange county 253 — Working V.V."" 250 Buttermilk 497 — Composition of '. 500 Calves, Importance of freely handlVng " ". 120 — How to skin ' 140 — Raising of .■.■■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■ 147 — Raising, on the soiling principle 143 — stomach, The fourth for rennet 130 — When to be deaconed im Can handles. Milk nti Cans, Factory milk oq) Cardingcowa ??n Carrots, Coloring butter with.'.".".'.' 400 Caserne J^P — shells. Influence of.' ."."." .'.'.'." isq — Solubilityof *|^7 _'t m n^rf'?;,?"'' "^ 'I o f com Parati ve equi'vaients ." ." " ." 105 — Importance of acclimating 107 Cajiseof floating curds 2^1 Cellars, Manure 3? — under cheese iactori"es]."!!.'!!! 4ja Census, Are the figures correct 17 — Inaccuracy of returus 21 — report of 1870 Are the figures 'correct.'.".'.";.".":.".' 17 L-entritugal machine for cheese making 346 certificate of stock— Form for cheese factory company ^ m-, Cheddar cheese— its style..'. 97^ — — making ;;; o~\ — process, Principles of 4Si Cheese, American '.'.'..'.'. 311 — — abroad— Appearance and riierits...'.'.'.'.'.' 276 ~ Comparative merits of ' 27G — — exports in 1848, '49. '50 214 ~ '^'^oei'"'''®'' exports for ten years, from is'a's't'o" looS 956 — factories, List of !!."."."."!"."."53i-540 — Home consumption of. 9 — — — made in United States in 1869..".".!".".".".""! 18 — — beef, Relative cost of producing... p ~ o?Piir'^'f"^ and making single Gloster cheese'.! 265 — associations— Old districts affected 234 — bad from imperfect salting "",328 — bandages, boxes, &c '" ' ^'^ — Cannon ball 4?n — certificate of sale. qc^ — Cheshire of excellent 'qual'i't'y.'"! 344 — oairyin g as a specialty— Its history ! '. 213 — defects in American, bad flavor, &c .' 230 — districts of England.... o^a — dressing room 295 — English, improvement "iii""k"eepi"ng,""c"h"ee"s'e room, &e ^y^^'e., i^ui-ebe — - - inquality .'.".".'.';.'.'.'.'.'."."."."." 994 — Errors m keeping.... oqa — Experiments at Froces'ter Court.".""." 1% — — Voelcker's §00 — ^''fnl8«)*'''6l^^®'^'^°'"'^'f ''0^1862 "to "1866:."^^ 284 — Extra rich, Arialys'i's'of!!!!'.'.'.'. lYn — - fine. Process for making i! .';.'.".' .' 457-4fi' — factory owned and managed by one person" sfi? — =s^stim7n'N^«^'i^'''^^"l''««"'^tToSsfor :•- 366 ^1863 ''^^'^ capital invested in — factories, Advanta"ges"(3f"a cellar under!." m — — Another form of organizing.... sfi^ ^New'Yorlf.^f.**^'* ''"'^ Persons emprdyed'i'n ~ ~ inaugurated 'by j'esse" Wi'liiams" '.'.'.'. In — — Notice to patrons, form for.. . qRi — — Number built in 16 years 21fi — — Regulations for oi? — factories-Rules for organizing. .".■.■.■".' qm — —The early " 'A2i — Fancy f:ictory j^ — Flavor of, English standard" .".■.".".■."■.■.".".'.■.' ;;;;;::: i26 — from 't'ainted'mll'k! !!;.■;;;.".■ .'.■; Ik? — Gloucestershire ,"."!.'.' Sr! Cheese, Grafted *4fiT — Hard, dry— How to improve!!!!!!!!!!!! i?q — hoop followers Jot — — and utensils, English '.'.'.!!".!!!!!!!!!! 293 hoops.. .„, — how afi^ected by fungus im — Keeping qualities 790 — madetromwhey o|? — — Ijy centrifugal machine, Ana"l"y"8i"s""df! 349 — makers. Salary of flrst-class... iqq — making, acids for 358" 35? American and Cheddar processe"seom'pared: '430 — — at Avery & Ives' factory 4fiK — — Coarse curds process iS — — Cutting the curds.. JVn — — Fish's views on heat...! 444 from a small quantity of milk.'Process!!!!! 469 ~ — — — — number of cows 4fi6 — -Machinery ^qS — — Norway factory !!!!! JSq — — paying for by the Dound !!!! 365 — — Practical mistakes' in sja — — Process where milk is sour...! 459' — — lemperatureforskiramed milk...'.'. 448 — whole milk 440 — — under difficulties !.'! 453 — — use of sour whey 437 ~ — beat in !!.'.'!!!!!!!!!!!! 442 — manufacture 436 — — cost in families !!!!!!!!'!! 220 — — English reduction of labor in. .'.".'. 289 ~ — of, from small quantities of milk 436 — skimmed 495 — market at Chippenham om — — The English "; 282 — Mellow appearance of 427 — Not ripening at too low temperat'iire'.!!!!!!!!!! 330 — of Somerset 260 — partially skimmed, Analysis'of!!!!!!!!!! 341 — per centiige. Manufacture table for "" 22 — — consumed as food '"20 — Practical faults in making ... 315 — press, A primitive aro — —English 2% — — Frazer'sgang !!!!!!!""! 403 — — log and how made 46a — —screws m^ — presses. Factory 400 — — Herkimer Co., Description 'of!!!!.'!! 399 — Proper ripening of ' " 427 — Proportion of moisture in.... 497 — rack and setter 457 — Rectangular 41/1 — - Bandaging !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 416 — — Boxing Jj» — — Curb and press for '.'.'..'. 41a — — Description of making 412 — — press. Cloths for Ijg — — Saving in boxes, and down weights.'.'.'.".".".""' 414 — — ■. hoops and screws 415 — Ripening of-How afl-eoted by manufacture'!! 448 — rooms Hot water pipes for heating 331 — sales. Blank for ^ ms — Salting in the whey ?oq — Salty taste of 4.I0 — selling at factories m? — shipments from New i'oric and pr'i'c'es'in Lon- don in 1866 and 1867 fSR — Size of otS — Skim milk. Making !!! 9^ — sold in New York in 1864 vi — spoiled by bad rennut !!!!!!!!"! 323 — bigh temperature !.!!!!!!!""! 330 — not turning 330 — spoiling by breaking curd too rap"i"d"l"y! !!!!!!!!! 318 — statistics 523-527 — Si-ilton 428 — — and Cotherstoiie, Analysis of...'.'.'.".*."."."."."."""' 304 — — Characteristics of 429 — — improved by cream 343 — styles demanded abroad "278 — The Derby shape 278 — — young American 490 — trad e for 1869, '70 and '71 ".".".' '5'^' 529 — —of JO — tub, Cockey's £35 — vat. Another form of heater under..'.'!!!!!!!!' 383 — — and heater, Millar's circulating 390 — — a utomatic, Description of 387 — — Oneida 393 — — with automatic heater !!.!!!!!!!!! 385 — Water in a good 493 r K ^V^ ^^^V'^ ; •■ .■.■.■.'.'.'.'.■.'.'.!262-264 Cheshire cheese making 275 — and Cheddar cheese. Composition of.'..'."." .306 Ch urn dash 249 — room and churning "".". 249 — Shape of the Philadelphia •. '. 491 Index. 543 PAGE. Churning, Causes affecting 504 — Dog and stieep power for 507 — Duration of 501 — Experiments in temperature 483 — How to be done 483 — Power for 505 — the cream or the mills 498 — — milk, Dutch process 498 — too quick 488 Churns, Patent 495 Cleaning dairy utensils 353 — millf cans 355 Clover, AIsi ke 72 — seed and permanent pasture, Field experi- ments on 57 Clovers, Value for milk lOJ — Analysis of 102 Coagulating milk. Experiments In 357 Coarse curds process. Salting 465 Coloring butter 499 — cheese 433 — — for the Jjondon market 279 Common stock. Crossing with thorough-breds 109 Composition of cheese 297 Concentrated food, Injury from feeding 135 Condensed milk 193 — — Elgin factory 108 — — Knglish Company 197 — — Kxports from New York 202 — of 195 — — in Switzerland 195 — — Irish.... 19T — — trade. Origin and development of 193 — — Two kinds of 201 — milks. Consistency of 201 Condensing factory. Provost's 201 — milk. Process of 197 — — • at Borden factory 197 — — The Borden factories 197 Cooking the curds 443 — —curd, Wight's views 447 Cooler, can and strainer, Burnap's 375 Cooling milk with ice 455 — — at the farm 373 — morning's milk 437 Corn — Analysis of varieties 81 Cottage cheese, how made 479 Cotton cake, compared with linseed cake 100 — seed meal 93 — statement of A. W. Cheever as to its value for milch cows 99 — Voelcker'a views 99 — Analysis of 100 Cow, Marks of a good 121 Cows, Alderneys as butter 115 — Annual average product 21 — average number for factory 367 — bad habits inherited 119 — Best breed of for the dairy 106 — Breeding instead of purchasing 107 — calving 137 — change of food required 31 — confined to one field more contented 30 — driving from pasture 356 — drying them of their milk 125 — Escutcheon of for good 123 — in bad 124 — in mediocre 124 — Fall and winter food for 123 — feeding and management important 124 — Form of escutcheon for first rate 123 — good tempered. Value of 120 — Guenon's discoveries 122 — Importance of drawing all the milk 127 — good condition for winter 131 — shelter for 127 — in close confinement 130 — — New York in 1864 and 1865 19 — injured by exposure 128 — kept quiet 49 — Magne's, Classification of 122 — Milch for years 1840, 1850 and 1860, and ratio of population 17 — Mr. Scott's management of 134 — not necessary to be constantly feeding 49 — Number for 1840, 1850, 1860, 1870 18 — — of in U. S. in 1869 18 — remarkablefor large yields 134 — Selecting for the dairy. 121 — teats— Wetting with milk 357 Cracked cheese. How to remedy 470 Cream affected by bad odors 503 — Analysis of 482 — two samples 497 — Composition of 500 — Density of 168 — How the English transport 186 — Scalding, For butter making 605 PAGE. Cream spoiled in the churn 483 — strainer. Baker's 488 — Straining of. Fur butter 488 — Temperature of. For summer 495 — that first rises 488 — When ready for churning 500 Creamery Association of Wallkill 24'7 Crossing Alderneys and Ayrshires 115 Curd agitator rake 407 — Amount of water in, When ready to go to the vat 316 — cutting implements 441 — filler 420 ~ knives, Cast steel dairy 407 — Limits of temperature for improvement 317 — mills 408 — Precautions against too much whey 318 — scoops 409 — Water in. When ready to go to press 310 Curds, Drawing off 456 — floating 431 — Salting 449 — Why they should be ground 402 Curing room not to be dark 470 — — floors 423 — rooms. Appliances for 423 — — heat in 446 — — warmed by steam 447 Cutting the curds 440 — and cooking the food. Skinner's experiments. 1,36 — Stuart's exueiiments 136 — down the boxes in packing 480 Dairies, Associated 11 Dairy belt, American 7 — Company, Form of certificate for Stock 363 — compared with other liusbandries 7 — Country, Characteristics of a good 7 — district of Wiltshire 291 — flippers 408 — farm, A good 8 — — English management of 81 — — system of rotation in crops 82 — forms and fixtures 25 — goods. Over production of 9 — house, A small butter cellar for 43 — — cheese making room for 43 — — Cold spring water for 43 — — Curing room 43 — — for farm dairies 42 — — Plan and description of for farm 45 — — What is a proper one 42 — Interest of. Progress and magnitude in U. S. . 16 — practice, English 287 — product of Herkimer Co., N. Y 521 Ohio 521 — Products of in U. S. for 1840-1850-1860-1870 18 — — Com. Wells' estimates 25 — — of the U. S. in 1850-1860 254 — —Value in 1840 214 — Relative advantages 8 — stock. Education of 121 — — in Orange Co 246 — utensils, Cleaning 352 Dairying, Associated 363 — — European idea 362 — English and American points of difference and merits 256 — Requisites to success 46 — Rise and progress of associated 213 Daisy, destroying 245 Dancel's experiments in watering cows 144 Decay, fermentation and decomposition. Prof. Caldwell's views 188 Derrick and hoisting wheel 424 Devons 112, 113 Devonshire cream 166 Distance in delivering milk 372 Double curds 467 Drains, How to be laid 71 Driving cows 356 Dutch breed 116 — cattle as milk producers 117 Enclosures, Small, Poor economy 27 Engine and boiler. Another new 385 Exercise, Importance of for cows 127 Expenditure of food by respiration— J. B. Law's experimen ts 139 Experiments on clover seed and permanent pas- tures 57 — with centrifugal machine for cheese making. .347 Exposure, Cows injured by 128 Factory buildings ,367 — — and fixtures. Dr. Wight on 422 — — Cost of 371 — Herkimer Co., fancy 370 — reports. Ohio 522 — Sfinborn's 368 — Sinclairville, Main building 418 544 Index. PAGE. Factory site 2^6 — system, Advantages of ^22 — — Hauling the uiillc 23J — — Its permanency 23o — — Objections to 221 — ■weiglilng can g9g — Willow Grove, Description of 368 Factories, Branch 377 — — Advantages of 380 — — Objections to 331 — Distances in delivering milk 372 — in Allegany Co., N. Y 535 — — Ashland Co., Ohio 5138 — — Ashtabula Co., Ohio 537 — — Broome Co., N. Y 634 — — Canada— Butter and cheese 5l0 — — Cattaraugus Co., N. Y 5« — — Cayuga Co., N. Y 536 — — Chautauqua Co., N. Y 5.56 — — Chemung Co., N. Y 537 — — Chenango Co., N. Y 531 — — Clinton Co., N. Y 533 — — Columbia Co., N. Y 533 — — Connecticut— Butter and cheese 539 — — Cortland Co.. N. Y 532 — — Cuyahoga Co., Ohio 533 — — Dutchess Co., N. Y 532 — — Erie Co., N. Y 533 — — Fulton Co., N. Y 532 Ohio 537 — — Geauga Co., Ohio 537 — — Genesee Co., N. Y 534 — — Greene Co.. N. Y 535 — — Henry Co., Ohio 537 — — Herkimer Co., N. Y 536 — — Huron Co., Ohio 538 — — Illinois— Butter and cheese 538 — — Indiana— Butter and cheese 510 — — Iowa— Butter and cheese 539 — — Jefferson Co., N. Y 534 — — Kansas— Butter and cheese 539 — — Kentucky- Butter and cheese 533 — — Lake Co., Ohio 538 — — LewisCo., N. Y 5J3 — — Lorain Co., Ohio 537 — — Madison Co., N. Y 532 — — Massachusetts— Butter and cheese 639 — — Medina Co.. Ohio 538 — — Michigan— Butter and cheese 639 — — Minnesota— Butter and cheese 538 — — Monroe Co., N. Y 533 — — Montgomery Co., N. Y 533 — — New York State-List of 531-537 — — Niagara Co., N. Y 534 — — Ohio— Butter and cheese 537,538 — — Oneida Co., N. Y 531 — — Onondaga Co., N. Y 533 — — Ontario Co., N. V 533 — — Orange Co.. N. Y 535 — — Orleans Co., N. Y 533 — — Oswego Co., N. Y 533 — — Otsego Co.. N. Y 535 — — Pennsylvania— Butter and cheese 539 — — Portage Co., Ohio 537 — — Rensselaer Co., N. Y 536 — — Saratoga Co., N. Y 535 — — Schenectady Co., N. Y 534 — — Schoharie Co., N. Y 53Q — — Schuyler Co., N. Y 633 — — Steuben Co., N. Y 533 — — St. Lawrence Co., N. Y 534 — — Summit Co., Ohio 538 — — Tennessee— Butter and cheese 539 — — TiogaCo., N. Y 535 — — Tompkins Co., N. Y 536 — — Trumbull Co., Ohio 537 — — Vermont— Butter and cheese 539 — — Virginia— Butter and cheese 539 — — Washington Co., N. Y 534 — — WayneCo., N. Y 531 — — Wisconsin— Butter and cheese 538 — — Wyoming Co., N. Y 534 — — YatesCo., N. Y 5,35 — Ingersol 1 378, 379 — List of Cheese and Butter 531-540 — Organization and selection of sites 225 — Popular method of organizing ,362 — selling cheese 364 Fairfield factory, Description of 368 Failing to face. Management of cheese when 448 Fall feeding cows 145 — management of cows 146 Fancy factory cheese, Herkimer Co 462 Farm dairies. Cooling morning's milk., 437 — English, Harding's *. 2f;8 — rents In England 268 Fiults practical in making cheese 315 Fjed, Spring and summer, for milch cows 137 PAGE. Feeding cows for milk— Horsf all's experiments. . 141 — grain in summer 142 Fence, A light. How to make 28 — Board 29 — — How to make 29 — Interior, tor dairy farms 27 Fences, Log and rail 28 — Movable panel 28 — Picket 28 Fencing 26 — Bconomyin 29 — Employing an engineer for 27 — Expense of for farms of the State 26 Flavor, Delicate of Stilton 430 Floating curds 431 — — Grinding for 432 — — Iron's process for 433 — —Moon's process ♦ 434 — — Preventive of 435 ■ — — Remedy for 435 ■ — — Treatment of 436 11 Fodder, Barns for cutting and steaming 36 ■ Food. A good article needed 9 — Cheap and nutritious. Influence of 11 — Dr. Thompson's experiments with, for ani- mals 103 1 — Economical use of 12 BJ — Experiments in Dundee prison 15 Bi — gained by steaming 38 ■ — Gold prices for different kinds 9 — Muscle making 14 — Producing cheaply 11 Gloucester cheese. Single and double analysis of. 307 Gloucestershire 264 Grades, Short-Horns HI Grafting the curds 467 Grass, artificial. Green produce at Escrick Park. . 62 — compared wiih cotton, corn, wheat, oat and potato crops— values of each 52 — crop, Importance of 51 — early and late cut, Relative value for cows 131 — — cut. Value of 133 — lands improved by irrigation 86 — — Liquid manure for 67 — — Management of 51 — — Seeding in spring 74 — — Top dressing of 55 — with artiticial manure 56 — gypsum 67 — — Treatment of rough surfaces 82 — Pecuniary value of 51 — Turning cows to., 142 Grasses, artificial. Table showing produce of 58 — Butter, of Orange Co 242 — for the dairy in England 266 — — pastures, Gib.son's views 72 — Influence of nitrogenous fertilizers 60 — Lawes' and Gilbert's experiments 60 — Milk producing varieties 66 — nutritive value of different varieties. Table for 85 — of Orange Co 242 — Standard varieties for meadows 84 Gypsum, Best method of sowing 67 — Composition of 68 — Quantity used per acre 68 — Valueof 69 Hair in stomach. Balls of 130 Half soiling 77 Hard fescue grass 73 Hay on Harding's farm 270 Heat, Best mode of applying 445 — Danger of high 446 — in cheese making 442 — in curingrooms 446 — Injudicious use of 444 Heater and steam er. Agricultural 396 — — vats, Position of 393 — Automatic 385 — — and cheese vat, Burrell's 385 — Millar's, Description of 391 — Old style self 388 — undervat, Ralph's 388, .389 — — the vat. Another form of 388 Heating with dry steam 425 Heifers coming in when two years old 120 Herds, Division of 26 — Large, unwieldy 26 — Sizeof 25 Herkimer factory 228 Holstein or Dutch cattle 116 Hoops, Cheese press 404 Horsfall's experiments 141 Hoven in cattle 150 — How to treat 151 Ice in cooling milk. Use of 455 — injuring butter 455 Improving hard dry cheese 479 Irrigation of meadows 86 IXDEX. >45 PAGE. Irrigation— Sincliiir's opinion B7 — UtilizinfT water from springs ." Sii Italian rye grass 73 Jennings' pan 4'! — milk pan 433 Jersey s 1 U Jewitt's pan 4S7 June glass 243 Kindness on milking stock, Influence ol' 1;0 J^actouieter in court 155 Ijund, Misdirection in tiie use of ]G Lice, Hutcliin's funiigator for destroying l:)2 — Means of destroying 1,02 liiminggrass lands Gil Linseed lOi — and beans, Milk and butter produced by feed- ing 102 — Best way of feeding iJt — cake lot Liquid manuring, Application of to grass lands .. 83 — — l)r. Voelcker's views as to value 83 — — on Alderman Mechi's farm 83 Lucerne 102 — Analysis of 102 — Composition of 103 Machinery for cheese making 'iQi Management of cheese when falling to face 413 — — cows, Scott's 134 Mangolds and turnips. Analysis of 93 — Jilxpeiise of growing 79 Manufacturing cheese by the pound 385 Manure, Bone 90 .- cellars. Convenience of 3S •- — Practical bearing of 41 f- Truesdale's practice 38 Meadow fescue 73 — — ill Uevonshire 207 Meadows— cause of running out 133 — English system of management 81 — Getting a good turf on 133 — near Edinburg 83 — permanent 83 Milk, Absorptive properties of 103 — Action of rennet upon 183 — Adding lime water to for children 205 — affected by climate 17S — the size and breed of animals 179 — and butter. Yield of, by feeding linseed and beans 103 — as food 14 — Association, Orange Co 2.'>1 — — Ro.;kville 251 — lioiled less digestible 203 — Biirden'a condensing process 200 — business of Orange Co 240 — butter and cheese, Equalizing the supply of.. 11 — can, Tlie French 185 — Canning and keeping in good order 185 — cans. Cleansing and steaming 335 — — Factory 397 — — Open or closed 18B — carried on Erie Railway 521 — cellar, Crozier's 484 — coagulated with acids ,358 — Coagulation of 187 — Experiments 357 — Color of 104 — Composition of new 390 — the products from, in making butter 500 — Condensing, Process of 197 — conductor 398 — consumed as food, table showing per centage to each person 22 — consumption, per centage of, previous to 1801. 21 — cooler. Improved National 373 — — Northrup's 376 — coolers, Hawley's and Bussey's 373 — coolingat the farms 373 — Cost of producing in old districts 233 — transport to New York city 23 — Cows required to supply New "^ork city on Harlem and Erie roads 22 — crop. Value of in 1860 23 — Delivery at factories 229 — Description of 153 — JClfect of agitation in traveling 185 carriage upon the cream product 186 — soils on its keeping quality 185 — Experiments in using 209 — Extra rich. Analysis of 339 — feverish, Its infectious character ....'. 184 — for skim cheese 41)7 — from cows inhaling bad odors. Injury of . .""!! 181 — — watering cows. Increase of 144 — Gallons sold in New York in 1864 19 — Globules. Description of ]68 — How taints in the dairy affect 193 — Improved by exposure to thealr while cooling 182 PAGE. Milk— Influence of food in changing? the relative ccjiistitueiits of .109, 5r!0 — influenced by food— Voelcker's opinion 177 — Its quality determined by breed Oiaiiirnals... 1?7 — — use and management for infants and child- ren 202 — Kuhn's e.X|ierimentslor ranging its quality... 170 — L. B. Arnold's experiments in cooling 183 — nianutaeture when tainted 401 — Manufactured and used for food in Thirteen States ill ISr.0 20 — Method of setting for cream 248 — Mineral matters of 168 — Neutral or alkaline 165 — of diseased cows 180 — pail for setting and cream dipper 249 — pails for setting milk 494 — — Millar's 353 — —Ralph's 354 — pan, Jewett's 43« — — Jennings' 488 — pans, Jennings' 43 — p:ntiallyskimined, Analysis of 34." — percentage consumed as food 20 — Phosphates in a gallon 65 — Plain and condensed 195 — product and value of in 1870 24 — production. Influence of fodder upon 170 — jiroximate acidity for cheese 2:J0 — Quality, How affected 109 — Quantity tor butter and cheese 241 — — Increased by forcing system 48 — — influenced by grasses 55 — — produced inflve days from different kinds of food 103 — — received in the city at deiiots Erie, Harlem and Long Island R. R., ISO! 22 — recent tests of i;o — Relative nutritive value of 12 — Richness of Alderney 11,5 — Room for farm dairies 484 — — Regulating temperature... 494 — Rules for the treatment of at condensing factor! es 199 — Secretion of.ahabit 1,33 — setting for butter. Best temperature for 485 — — in water pools 494 — Skimmed, Analysis of Z"^ — — as a diet In disease 208 — Speciflcgravity— A test of quality 154 — Spontaneous changes in '. 102 — Stirring, during the night i;^ — stock 246 — — averse to exercise 47 — — Good constitution Important 101 — Table showing its composition, resulting from Dr. Kuhn's experiments with different kinds of food 173 — -pec centage of minerals leo — tester 421 — tests itju — theflrstafter calving. Analysis of 179 — — souring accompar.ied by yeast iermeiit 192 — theory of rennet coagulation 167 — tinted by food 105 — to a pound of butter 238 — Pratt's report 497 — turned to most profit 499 — Treatment of the evening's mess 22;) — Variation of, in quality from poor keep 132 — Water in... 47 — Watered, How to test 159 — Weighing the solids and the ash 162 — When ready for churning 500 — Woman's, Characteristics of 204 — yield per cow in Saxony no Milkers and milking on Harding's farm 270 Milking 355 — for the London market 136 — Importance of drawing all from the cow 127 — Regular hours for 358 — Wettingthe teats ,357 — withdryhands 357 Modern milk pan 485 Mops, Rubber 409 Neat cattle. Number and value of 51 Neglect, Loss of cows from 128 New milk. Composition of 500 Normandy butler— how put up 481 Oats, Composition of 104 Ohio factory reports 522 Orchard grass 72 — — Complaint against, and how obviated 85 Organizing cheese factories. Form of 363 OviT-heating, Guard against 446 Packages badly made for butter 511 Painted cheese 4'71 Pastures, Breaking up unprofitable 55 546 INDEX. PAGE. Pastures— Chanfre of for eows SO — Fresli cow dung objectiiin;ibie In- u7 — — produce scours 30 — How improved go — — tolaydown "1 — Influence of location G9 — a good seed bed for seedin.-,' 71 — insufficient drainage TO — not to be overstocked 31 — Old for fattening stock 54 — Overstocking, &c •')2 — Permanent 25 — Plowing up and re-seedin^r 53 — Seeding for and variety of seeds 71 — Sliades in 48 — Trouble with recently re-seedeil 6fj — what kinds are best for the dairy 53 Philadelphia butter 490 Phosphates, quantity in a gallon of milk 55 I'igs, Feeding, Law's experiment 110 Pine-apple cheese liT — Manufacture of i'J Poison cheese ^7:3 — — Dr. Jackson's analysis of 4T;i — — from damp and imperfect curing rooms 4i'5 — — Voelcker's experiments 473 Poor keep. Affect quality of milk ]'i2 Post holes. How to dig 29 Power, Slieep, Kichardson's 507 — for churning 505 Pre lace 5 Preliminary to cheese making 352 Press rings, llubber 4:4 — — Wooden -105 Rape cake 101 Heceiving platform at factories 4:i4 Rectangular cheese - 4!U Red ti)p 72 Regulations for cheese factories 304 Rennet at Wall's Court, Eng., Preparation of 335 — English method of preparing 3.il — Hallier's assertion as to its action V.U — jar 3(10 — more nei;ded when milk is sinir 400 — Voelcker's experiments with 324 Rennets 359 — badly prepared 300 — heat affecting 192 — How to cure 359 — saved from healtliy calves 359 — steeping in whey 300 — straining the liquid 361 Root growing at York Mills, N. Y 91 Roots, Birnie's plan of raising and feeding 79 — for dairy stock. Growing 87 — Influence of the crop for rotation 95 — PulUng and storing 94 — Time and method of sowing 93 — Varieties grown at York Mills ; 92 Rough stalked meadow grass 73 Rules and regulations for Sinclairville' cheese factory 36G — for factory where proprietor purchases the milk 366 Salt afferting the flavor of cheese 450 — cheese spoiled by too much 328 — factory Hlled 452 — How to distinguish good 453 — Importatnce of f or cows 143 — the kind to be used 451 Salting butter 502 — cneesefor hot weather 451 — — in spring— quantity 451 — cows 142 — the curds 449 Saltpeter— its use in cheese making 471 Sanborn factory— elevation 301) Scales 410 — Boards 480 Schweitzer cheese 475 Scotch method of butter making 498 Sc(mrs produced by fresh pastures 30 Scratching poles 129 Scurfy cheese. Remedy for 472 Shade trees. Argument against, in pastures 49 Short-Hor ns 110 — — grades Ill Shute for drawing curds 456 Sinclairville factory, manufacturing department. 419 Sink 419 — casters 409 Size of cheese— popular weights of 479 Skim cheese. Analysis of milk and whey 337 — — Manufacture 496 — milk cheese. Composition of 310 Skimmed milk. Composition of 500 8kipv)er3, How to v>revent 470 timuU enclosures, Cost of 27 PAGE. Soiled stock, Health of 75 Soiling, advantages of 75 — Dr. Wight's exiierience 77 — Kinds of food to be used 76 — Manures saved in 76 — niilch stock 74 — Mr. Birnie's plan 7S — Quincy's experiments '75 — 'I'lie common plan 80 — I'lme for sowing corn 80 — with fodder corn 80 Somerset and its system of farming 258 Sour Wliey, Use in cheese making 437 — — application of at farm dairies 231 Specific gravity of milk 154 — drawn from different quarters of the udder 161 — Experiments with 158 — from different cows 155 — Influence of the molecular condition of caseine 160 — varies in different day.s Ifti — of skimmed milk 154 — watered milk 154 Spring and summer feed for milch cows 137 Stencil plates for marking 480 Stilton cheese 478 — —Size of 430 ^ — Temperature low for 429 Stirring the milk during night 453 Stock of Somerset 260 — Selection, care and manageme t of 106 — t-hould be wintered well 132 Stomach, The fourth in calves 1.30 Stomachs of ruminants, Pre|)ari..g foud for as- similation 129 Straw 103 — Analysis of different kinds 103 — Nutriiive equivalent compared with hay 103 Stripui ngs 179 Sugar of milk 168 Summer temperature of dairy regi'in 517-520 Sweet vernal grass 72 Swiss cheese. Manufacture of 476 Tainted milk 4(il Teats, Short 114 Temperature, Best for setting milk 485 — for churning, H.vperiments in 483 — of dairy region— Summer 517-520 — Proper for gathering the butter 501 Thermometer, Dairy 409 — Using a good 490 Timothy 73 Top dressing after mowing 84 — — meadows. Influence of flne and coarse ma- nure 84 — — with liquid manures 82 Turnip culture 89 — — Bone manure for 90 Turnips and mangolds, analysis of 96 — Harvesting, storing and feeding 90 — How to sow 92 — Manures for 92 — Time of sowing 93 Value of cheese product of 1865-1863 256 Vermont cow. Record of 133 Voelcker on composition of cheese 297—332 Voelcker's cheese experiments 333 Washing butter 502 — the tables and ranges 470 Water, Dancel's experiments with cows 144 — Good importance of for cows 143 — in curd when ready to go to press 316 — Influence of bad on stock 46 — Necessity of good for stock 46 — Wind power for pumping 47 Watered milk. How to tell 159 Weeds the curse of dairying 52 — How to kill 52 Weighing can 398 Whey, Application of sour 231 — at factories. Disposal of 376 — — farm dairies, A pplication of sour 231 — — three periods. Composition of 320 — butter, how made 514 — cheese. Analysis of 361 — composition of 319 — from skim cheese. Analysis of 338 — — extra rich cheese. Analysis of 3.39 — — partly skimmed cheese, Analysis of 341 — in cheese making. Sour 437 — — the curd. Caution against too much 3W — sti-ainer and siphon 407 Wilts cheese. Manner of making 262 Wiltshire 261 — Warwickshire and Leicestershire cheese, Composition of 309 Wire grass 24,1 VERY FEW MEN Have ever made the manufacture of Churns a specialty, and have put into their "work enough money, or time, or conscience, to make a really Jirst-class article. The present manufacturers of ^'- The Blanchard Churn'' have been engaged (father and sons) in the making of Churns for over fifty years ! They have devoted much time to the scientific investigation of the process of Butter Making, and devel- oping the best mechanical means for aiding it. It has been for many years their onli/ business. They have carefully observed and examined every new claimant for the dairyman's favor. They have been constantly testing and applying improvements to the Churn they have been making. They have been perfecting the machinery and appliances of their factory. They have been untiring in their efforts to combine every desirable quality in their Churn, and to omit every thing needless or compli- cated. They believe they have succeeded, and confidently ofi'er as combining more good qualities than any other Churn now made. It has been made and used over twenty years, and there are now in successful operation over No other Chum is made of as good material, or as well. It cannot get out of order, because it is so simple. St has no cog wheels or gearing. It brings the Butter as quickly as it ought to come. It works the Butter free from buttermilk, in the Churn, without any change of dasher, quicker and better than it can be done by hand. It works in the Salt in the same way. It is a perfect AUTOMATIC BUTTER MAKER. THE AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK, Hon. X. »t. Willard, Jtairy Mditov of Jfloore's Jitiral JVetc-J^orkei', says of itt " Your Churn has been in use in my dairy during the past season. It is simple in its construction, is easily cleaned, and does its work in, the best manner. It is a Churn I can safely recommend to butter makers." HON. MASON C. WELD, JLate ttssociate JSditof of tlte .Atnerican .tgrictiUttrist, says of itt " I will not simply say that it does its work well, for we are very critical; but will say it does it to our supreme satisfaction^ both in churning and work- ing the butter. Of late the whole work has been done by a girl of fourteen." Our Churns are now in general use in the dairies of the most intelligent farmers in the country. They are on sale in every State in the Union, by all dealers in really first-class Farmers' Implements. WE MAKE FIVE SIZES. No. 6, for about 12 gals, of Cream. Retail price, $9 No. 7, " 18 " " 10 Pnlleys famished for power. SAMPLE CHURNS sent for examination and trial to towns where we have no Agents, on receipt of 25 per cent less than our retail prices, and satisfaction guaranteed. No Churns sent for sale on Consignment or Commission. For Churns, Agencies, or full Descriptive Circulars, send to the Sole Manufacturers, POETER BLANOHAED'S SONS, Concord, N. H. No. 3, for about 2 gals, of Cream, EetaU price, $6 No. 4, " 4 " II 7 No. 5, "8 " « 8 THE BEST IN ITS SPHERE OF JOURNALISM ! HAS FOR NEARLY TWENTY-FIVE YEARS BEEN THE RECOGNIZED LEADER in its Important Field of Journalism. Favorably known through the length and breadth of the land, and in Europe, it has the L^jiaEST omcuL^Tioisr of any Newspaper of its Class on this Continent or in the World, and the LARGEST BNFLUENCE, from the Reliability of its Teachings. The Extent and Variety of the In- formation in its pages, make it not only the Best Agricultural Paper, but the Best Family Paper, and the Best Literary Paper, as it is the Best Authority on Rural Topics^ and furnishes THE BEST STORIES ! THE FKESHEST NE'WS I THE EATEST a>tSCOVERIES ! ACCURATE MARKET REPORTS ! lEEUSTRATEO ARTICEES, &c., &c. Beside tlie writings of llie Concluctiiig and Associate Editors, its Corps of Puid and Volunteer Contribuiors is larger tlian that attached to auy otlier Rural, Literary and Family Weekly, making MOORE'S RURAL NEW-YORKER the Organ in and through -which great and beneficial efforts toward "PROGRESS AND IMPROVEMENT" are originated and commnnicated to the People. In tlie Future, as in the Past, the Rural's Motto "will be '' Excelsior P^ except in Price, which was reduced Jan. 1, 1872 — making it the: cheapest paper of its size ! the cheapest uural aveeki.y ! the cheapest famiiiy journal t ZIVIFXIOVED STlTSiS AND HEDUCED FRICE ! Each No. of the Rural New-Tohker for 1872 will comprise Sixteen Quarto Pages, (larger than Harper's Weekly,) printed from New Type, on Extra Fine and Heavy Paper, and Illustrated and Printed in the Higliest Style of the Typographic Art. REDUCED TERMS, In Advancer-Single Copy, $2,50 per Tear. To Clubs: Five Copies, and one copy free to Ag-ent or (retter-iip of Club, for $12.50 ; Seven Copies, and one free, for $16 ; Ten Copies, and one free, for $30— only $2 per copy. As we are obliged to pre-pay the American postage on pHpers mniled to foreign countries. Twenty Cents should be added to above rates for each yearly copj^ mailed to Csinada, and One Dollar per copy to Europe. Drafts, Post-OfBce Money Orders and Registered Letters may be mailed at our rislf. 1^^ Liberal Premiums to all Club Agents who do not take free copies. Specimen Num- bers, Show-Bills, &c., sent free. Address D. D. T. MOORE, Rural NcTV- Yorker Office, IVe^r York City. iflaorc's Stanbarb Uural |)ubUcotions. The People's Practical Poultry Book. A WOKK ON THE BREEDING, REARING, CARE AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF POULTRY. BIT W3M[. WZ. ItH^^lS. This work contains Practical Information on THE BEST BREEDS TO RAISE, BEST MODE OF MANAGEMENT, NUMBER OF FOWLS TO KEEP, DRESSING AND PACKING, PREVENTION AND CURE OF DISEASES. CAPONIZING PROCESS, INCUBATORS, POULTRY HOUSES. POULTRY ENEMIES, &c. The work is the most thorough Treatise on the subject that has yet been issued, and has won unqualified approbation from the Press, and from Poul- try Raisers all over the country. It is PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED with Engravings, mostly from Original Designs by the best Artists. WHAT TH£ FRZSSS SA'S'S OT IT. From the Kansas Farmer. For a tborougb and complele work, it is the most, concise and direct ot any poiillry book we are acquainted wilb. There are single pns^es wortli tbe price of tlie book to any one wlio keeps fowls. From the Michigan Farmer. It is the American ponllry hook of the limes, witlioiit doubt, and Mr. Moore is en- titled to !i vote of thanks for hrin^ing it oid, as well as Mr. Lewis for writing it. From the American Bural Home. The author bns evidenlly aimed to bring together tlie greatest amount of practicnl in- formation from all soiu-ces within bis rencli, and present it to the reader in a popidar and convenient form, making his work espe- cially valuable for reference. From the Country Gentleman. TffR author presents a book which will be a convenient addition to the library of any poultry keeper. Fi'om the Rochester Daily Express. The method of artificial hatching and cnre of the young, is fully set forth, and the most improved incubators illnstrated. Those who liave bad years of experience in poultry raising will find new and valuable informa- tion in the chapter on capoinzing, AvbiJe for tlie beginner and amateur the whole work is indispensable. From the JSf. Y. Daily Sun. It is just such a book as every person wants who keeps domestic fowls, either for profit or pleasure. Sent by mail, free of postage, for ^1.50. Address D. D. T. MOORE, Publisher, Rural Ne-w-Yorker Oflice, Wew Yorlc City, jMoaxcQ Stanbflrir Bural |)ublicaUone. NE^^ EDITIOlSr OF The Practical Shepherd, By HENRY S. RANDALL, LL. D., Author of ^' Sheep Husbandry in the South,'' ''Fine Wool Sheep Hus- bandry,''' dtc, and Editor of the Sheep Husbandry Depart- ment of Moore's Rural New- Yorker This work is the Standard Authority on the BREEDDiG. lAEGEMT Al DISEASES OF SHEEP. The book contains all that is known of the subject up to the time of its publication, and is universally acknowledged to be the MOST COMPLETE WORK ON SHEEP HUSBANDRY EXTANT. OFIlO'XOIiJS OF THIS FKESS. From the Neio England Farmer, Boston. The Pkactical Shepherd is a work that lias loDg been needed by our people. It should be in the liand and head of every person owning sheep. From the Country Gentleman and Cultwator. As a whole, this book is unquestionably in advance of anything of the kind now be- fore the public. From the Maine Farmer. The name of tlie author, Hon. H. S. Ran- dall, is a guarantee of its completeness and reliability. F'om the Neio York Tnhuv£. In this volume the author has exhausted the subject, and given all tliat is necessary for any farmer to know about selecting, breeding and general management of sheep, in healtli or sickness. We heartily com- mend this work to all who wisli for a sound and tliorougU treatise on Sheep Husbandry. From the Ohio Farmer. The reputation of the author — who ranks as THE authority in this country upon all liiat pertains to the breeding and manage- ment ot'slieep — will induce a large and con- tinued demand for " The Practical Shep- herd." From the Journal of the N. Y. State Ag'l Body. The Practical Shepherd is a most complete work on Sheep Husbandry for tlie priictical wool grower, and gives all the important mailer required for the manage- ment of sheep, as well as a description of the various l)reeds adapted to our country. This work meets the wants of the wool growers. From the Prairie Farmer. The illustrations of sheep are by the best artists of New York, and well done. The letter press and paper are all that could be desired in a work of this description. It will undoubtedly meet with the large sale its merits demand. Twenty-seventh Edition now ready. Sent by mail, free of postage, for Two Dollars. Address all orders to D. D. T. MOORE, Publisher, Rural I¥eTr- Yorker Office, ^ew York City* LIST OF RURAL BOOKS, FOE SALE AT THE OFFICE OF RE'S RURAL NEW-YORKER, Or Sent by Mailf j^ost-paid, on Meceipt of Price, Allen's [L. F.] Ameriean Cattle $2 00 Do. New American Farm Book 2 50 Do. Diseases of Domestic Animals 1 00 Do. Kui-al Arcliitecture 1 00 American Bird Fancier 30 American Pomology [i.'90 Illustrations] . 3 00 American Practical Cookery 1 75 American Rose Culturist , 30 American Sharp - Shooter [Telescopic Kiile] 50 American Wheat Culturist [Todd] 2 00 Architecture [Cumrr.ings & Miller] 382 Designs and 714 Illustrations 10 00 Architecture, National, [Geo. E. Wood- ward] 12 00 Arcliitecture, Principles and Practice of [Loring & Jenny] 12 00 Bee-Keepers ' Text-Book, Paper 40 Do. Muslitt 75 Bement's Rabbit Fancier 30 Eicknell's Village Builder [55 Plates, showing New and Practical Designs] 10 00 Bommer's Method of Making Manui'es. . 22 Boussingault's Rural Economy 1 60 Breck's Book of Flowers [ncu] 1 75 Bridgeman's Gardener's Assititant 2 50 Buist's Family Kitchen Gardener 1 00 Do. Flower Garden 1 50 Buit's V egetables of America 5 CO Chemistry of the Farm [Nichols] 1 25 Choilt. D, T, MOOBB, PtCblisher, XS.ux>a,l TVe^v-'Y'orlier Offi.ce, IXETT irORK: CITY. A amOULTURAL PTEAMER HAS NOT YET FOUND ITS EftUAL ir-ort THE (jUALITIES OF SAFETY, DOEABILITY. UTILITY AND ECONOMY, For Cooking Food for Stock, and for General Purposes about the Dairy and Piggery. — »♦« — - We have the past season added pi. r?—. to get up steam -with thirty gallons a Patent Flue to pass the beat and ^'^;;|^^^ of water in thirty minutes, by the use flame around the boiler before reach- ^*^^^^^ of thirty-three pounds of wood, and ing the stacli. This Flue can be [^"^^3 a good fire remaining. This Steamer filled to any Steamer of our make at "^-^^^i can be had of any responsible dealer, trifling cost, and with it we are able «a^^^*^ 1^^^^ if not found address as below. DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING FOOD AND USE OF THE STEAMER. In setting the steainer, get a good draft, and let it be near the work to be done, and where water in abundance is at hand to wet the fodder. To Cooic Hay.— Cut It, wet It ivell, put it in upright tanks or caslcs, with false bottom and tight cover, press it down firmly, puss the steam in under the false bottom, and cook until done. To Cook Corn.— Soak as many barrels half full as you wish to cook from fifteen to twenty- four hours, turn on steam, and cook until done, when the barrels should be full. To Make Mush.— Fill as many barrels half full of water, as you wish to make barrels of mush, bring the water nearly to a boil by passing the steam to the bottom, stir in each barrel IM to 1% bushels meal uutil well mixed, then cook until done, when the barrels should be full. To Cook Vegetables.— Fill the barrels full, and if no other cover at hand, chop the top fine with a shovel, then cover them overwitli bran, meal or provender, and cook until done ; have holes in the bottom of the barrels to carry off condensed steam. To Scald Hogs.— Set a cask (if a box is not used) on an incline against your platform, pass your steam to the bottom of the water until suflBciently hot. To Wash Clothing.— Pass the steam into your tub of water to heat it to do the washing. The clothes can be boiled after by steam in the tub, or any wooden vessel, without fear of rust. To Scald Churns or Cans.— Put a small quantity of water In the article, pass the steam pipe to the bottom, put a cloth around the top, and turn on the steam. Milk Pans can be scalded in a tub of water. In all cases pass the steam to the bottom to boil any substance, and shut off steam, or tnke out the pipes when the cooking is done, as tlie boiler in cooling off draws the substance into it and the pipes. Full directions for use sent with each steamer. Prize Essays on Cooking and Cooked Food for Stock, with Circular containing price, cnpacity, directions for use, etc., forwarded, postage paid, on receipt of ten cents. Circulars sent free. BARROWS, SAVERY & CO., Manufacturers. JAMES C. HABTB 6l CO., Factors. Philadelphia, Sept., 1871. Knox's Patent and Improved £a^le. Improved Swivel —for Side Hill and I^evel Land, that leave no Ridg^es or Dead Fnrro^vs. Boston Steel Clipper. Sessions and liiiox's Patent Hard Steel. Mapes' Improved Subsoil. THE AMERICAN HAY TEDDER, Enables the most important Agricultural product of America to be cut, cured and stored in the barn in one day. Improves the quality and increases the value of the Hay Crop. Prevents all risk of damage from storms and sudden showers. Is simple, durable and of light draft. Was awarded the New England Agricultural Society's only First Prize at the Great Field Trial nc Amherst, Mass., in 1869, as being: superior to all others, and the best and only perfect machine for tedding or turning hay. THE PERRY GOLD Burt's Self.Adjusting- Horse Hay Rake. Boston Horse Hoe. Frencli's Patent Cultivator. Harring^ton's Patent Sin^si'le or Combined Seed. So-wer and Hand Cultivator. AMES PLOW COMPANY, Manufacturers of Agricultural Implements and Machines, Dealers in Seeds, Fertilizers and other requirements of Agriculturists and Agricultural Districts. Factories at Worcester and Ayer, Warehouses, Quincy Hall, Boston, and 53 Beekman Street, JVew York, ^"ORDERS FILIiED PROMPTLY. Price Lists and Descriptive Circulars on application. JONES, FAULKNER & CO., MANUFACTURERS OF earn Dairy Apparatus. IRON-CLAD MILK CANS AND PAILS, PRESS SCREWS AND CHEESE HOOPS, CHEESE AND BUTTER TRYERS, TORNADO, BLANCHARD AND DASH CHURNS. DEALEKS IN EVERY DESCRIPTION OF DAIRY FURNISHING GOODS. We keep constantly in stock UPKIGHT ANI> HORIZONTAL. For Factory use, and also for Steaming and Cooking; Food for Stock. STEAM PUMPS, HAND FORCE PUMPS, STEAM PIPES, VAXaVES, COCKS, aAUG£S, %VBIST£cES, &.c. THERMOMETERS \m MILK-TESTL\G INSTRUMEXTS OF ALL KI^DS, We are prepared to fit up Cheese Factories, on short notice, -with everything" com- plete for operation. ;^° Send for Illustrated Price r.ist. Nos. 31 GENESEE & 6 JOHN STS., Utica, N. Y. Near Bags's Hotel. Jk. rF'TTT ■!- - SIEST OIF They extract the animal heat from the milk and keep it at the desired temnPi-nfiM-^ ,•„ ^^iviSVy^fa^t^^A^l'^^^^^^^^^ profitable, and are adapted to lar^^e and small READ THE TESTIIMEOM-ZAILS : Pans ove^\.TM^^''n'^fr7;u;geme^\%7or\''uUe7^^^^^^^ "^Vh.f,T t';"\'' «"Pcriarity of the Jewett Patent Millc , „ ™ ' '" ' ■ A. M. BENNET. butter sens J,"^J!i^f;^J? ai^'/fol- tCL^^Lfs^rn^^'.^fn'not'lrVve'^'o'Jf 4hT^^ "j/r^^";* °'-''«'- """' ^^^^ ^<^-t -^ the after all the disiidvantAKes «"iich I Imve l" bOTed n^ *"";' f'''^ estimate: but I can say, satisfaction. My pans are l.rjre eno Kh for fifty cows • 'l IWvt 1 ari n v'l'A"' f l^ ^"^^' .T °*''« ^'^'^ «^eat elevate the water about ten feet and i( t-ikps fli.mir fl^» i,.,r.ViT?„ . ^ twenty-seven the r>:ist season. I one-flfth more butter, wlueh sol 1 for five rents r.reDernn[,nd ^Tf7<.^""'°i''T^.",""" '",'""• """^ "-'kes about dairy than with tlie small milk pan^^ I woukl smt fnr^h.To^fflf^Vf. "''"*''','^ ',*^*» lal.ortotake care of a that It can be used for the pans an 1 therconduc'tid into -i tronih'forV'ff'i;'"? 'l"^*^ to elevate tl,e water, them in the Urst place. I am s6 well leased 'n"th the nan, t^^^^^^^^^ ^""^ "^ ^''®." "-^ '" ''"'"P '* foi^ cows aniither season, and procure another set of puns ^ ' increase my dairy to one hundred Brasher Iron Works, N. Y., Sept., 1S7I. ^ R. W. SMITH. set of^he'j|;?tf Pafe"n\'' M^yrp'msimnL^,^"^.^ ^•'^^'"'•^^ ^\ ^nlone, N. Y.. have had in use three other arrangements for mlk nl. b t i'/. nnd^w! ;'f7""^'f.!3 !'/?.«"««'?."' to give it the the weather hot or cold condition ; it makes b Kde^croveran'othT/arrangem^^^^^ These advantages ,rre"s„fflcientlogive"i't The men everywhere. 'irrangements for making butter, and we recommend it to the attention of d'lirv! Malone, Sept. 22, 1871. SEYMOUR L. ANDRUS J<>HN C. Win.IAMSON LEVI M. ELDKED. E. REEVE. territorTror'Ivln'clfto"mnn'*uf^^^^^ ^'^ pnrohase terrilory, or to secure Bunsro.^ r-rnnklin Co., N. Y^^Ji^^o^^y^f, ^^r4^^L'ThrJe^iV^dT,f,^.-:;^:^tT^f. «• ^- *^^^^^-' ^' ^^th Malone, F^Sn Co." i?. ?!^{]:; *„" vl^^ Srri'nThVfo'r^'fJ^^f J'^'^ York,*nddress L. R. Towsend, place, and ,s an authorized agent for theSe of al/unsold tenTtory:^ '"''^""^•'^'''"'•«« t"^'» ^^ ^^at _ L R. TOWNSEND, Malone, Tranklin Co., N. TT. B. F. JEWETT, Worth Bangror, Franklin Co., KT. Y. xjTic^, isr. Y., MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN Cheese Factory an ^sLKrx> sxj:e3^=*XjI:ie3s. In the apparatus line, wo would call attention to THEONEI (See Pages 389 and 391,) The Best and Cheapest Vat in the World. It is suited to all classes of Cheese Factories and Dairies. Over 1,000 are alreadj' used in the former, and 1,500 in the latter. S^~ It will innke more cheese from a eiveii qiiniitity of milk than can be mtide by nny other apparatus, and with less of labor and fuel. Superiority of quality is an invariable result. N(i additional expense is incurred in setting up; it is ready for ttse. Simple in construc- tion and operation, it is readily understood, and not liable to any accident in use. Tliere is nothing to explode about it, nor any parts to fill up by hard water scale. The heating is perfect in all respects, and easily controlled. It is very durable. ■WE ALSO SELL STEAI AND "HOT WATER CIRCDLATIE" APPARATUS For Cheese Factories, and all articles and fittings for setting up same. CUED MILLS, FEESS HOOPS AND SCREWS, And all otiier implements and articles nsed in ciieese-making'. A GOOD ASSORTMENT OF e-Makers' F ngSy ^ucli as KEi\I\ETS, best Irfrnds; AiVrVATTO, dry and extracts; PRESS and BAIVI>A€iE CI.OXUS, <&c., &c., al'%vays on hand. We shall endeavor to "keep up with the times" in being able to supply all new inven- tions, if of value. Descriptive Circulars and Prices sent on application. Address WM. RALPH & CO., Utica, N. Y. IMPORTAIVT TO MIRYMEIV, STOCK-RAISERS AND FARMERS! (COPYR-IOHO?.) NE FILIN ]VATURE'S O'WN CONDITION POWDERS, (PA-TEISTT ^I>JPLIEr> FOR,,) FOR FEEDING CimE. STOCK OF ffl mis. JIIID POETRY, OF BOTH SEXES, ALL AGES AlVD EVERY CONDITIOIV. Prepared from pure, selected, hard bone, by a formula originating- with ourselves Guaran- teed by analysis g-iven below and to contain no injurious or deleterious substances. For the use of stock ot all kinds, it is recommended by the highest and best authority in our own as well a^ foreigri countries. Being rich in Fhosphatic matter, in a concentrated form, it sunolies the animal directly with the elements so essential to the promotion of a rapid growth of BODY BONE and MUSCLE elements, of which the soil has been totally depleted by constant cropping! An undoubted remedy for the dairy scourge— aboHion in cows. r j " lui^t-iug. "^.A ''^Py °* *^® essay— "The Abortions of Cows: What is the Cause and what the Kemedy?" sent on receipt of 3-cent P. O. stamp. ^ ^^^ To place this valuable compound within the reach of all, we have put it in small packages, as well as barrels, and will be sent by express, as directed, on receipt ot the price :-Bbls., $13 each! JraCKages, o ID., 51I ; iU ID., 51J-10 each. Address JOHN RALSTOX & CO., 170 rront St., Wew York, Sole Proprietors. AISTALYSIS. SHEFFIELD SCIENTIFIC SCHOOL OF YALE COLLEGE. ) New Haven, Conn., Sept. 16, 1871. J comp^sulon hf IM^partfr''* ^""^ filings," received from John Ralston & Co.. New York, has the following Moisture o on Sand "-SV Chloride of Sodium [ o'™ Bone Phosphate of Lime .......'..'.'.'.'.". 57 ^ /-. , . (With some Magnesia and Fluoriiie not separateiyestimat^^^ Carbonate of Lime j v;o.,iuia,i,cu.^ Ossein (yielding gelatine) with a little fat .....'.'.'.'.".'.".'.■.'.'.'.'.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.'.■.■.■.■.■.■.■.■;.■.■.■.■.■ 25!?5 Rodinm^'^ ^''™^'® consists of F^rj/ Pwre Bone, in a state of fine division, with 2% per cent.Tf Chloride of soaium. Lfeigned,] SAM'L W. JOHNSON. JOHI\a RALS TO N & CO., 170 Front Street, ]Vew York, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN OP KNOWN EXCELLENCE ONLY. (GUARANTEED BY ANALYSIS.) Wo. 1 FERUVZASr GUAZrO (Chincha or Guanape), Direct from the Gov't consignees. In original packages-2,340 lbs. to ton-at gold prices. CLES^f L^L^^Si^5F?fiS^S?_^^ MATTER, and ALL ARTI- LEACHED ASHES, FISH SCRAP and NOVA SCOTIA PLASTER FURNISHED BY THE CARGO. quota^ro^L"Snrr^7t?o^fc!L:lflTti^creiiT^^ ^"**- D-eriptive Circulars and reliable tion gulffietdlaTvery'caleT^" ^''''' *° P"'^'''^^^ ^'^ ^°^"^airy and Factory Vats, >vitli Impi-oxed Heaters ; Large Factory Vats, complete, >vitlt Fipes tor I>istri1>ution of Steam ; Card l>raii»ers ; Presses ^ Hoops ; Scre^vs ; Carrying Cans ; ^Veigli- ing Caas ; Sackers ; Conductors, * &c., &c., &c. We use only the best materials, and employ the most experienced workmen in making thes< jroods. In this way we are able to guarantee everything to be of the best quality in market A trial could not fail to convince of this. FACTORY AND DAIRY SUPPLIES. There has been, heretofore, no place this side of the State of New York, where a full list oi Dairy and Factory Supplies could be obtained at all times, and on short notice. We have determ- ined lo supply this need, deeply felt by the dairymen of Ohio and the West, in whose interesty our business will be conducted, and the continuance of whose patronage, so liberallyextended tu us during the past, we earnestlj'' solicit for the future. AVe shall endeavor to keep constantly on hand a full assortment of Cheese Bandage Strainer Cloth, Annatto, Annattoine, Rennets, Factory Filled Salt, Curd Knives, THERMOMETEtiS, MILK-'I'ESTING INSTRUMENTS, SCALES, CURD SCOOPS, MiLK PAILS, and in faCt tvcrything wanted in the manufacture of Cheese. ^^ Seud for Circular and Price List. Please state where you saw this notice. B. B. ROE 6l CO. CHARLES MILLAR & SON, Wo. 1S7 and 129 Genesee Street, Utica, W. Y., MANUFACTURERS OF MILLAR'S PATENT CIRCULATING COIL HEATERS AND CHEESE VATS. PositiTely the 1>est clieese-malfing apparatus in tlie ^rorld. In use ill tlie l>est Cheese Factories and private dairies tliroug-hout tlie United States and Australia. gag~ Satisfaction guaranteed in every case. ALSO, MANtTPACTURERS OB" MILLAR'S PATENT RATCHET CHEESE PRESS SCREWS, PATENT MILK CAI^S, MILK PAIL8, CAN HANDLES, CURD AGITATORS, AND OTHER GREAT IMPROVEMENTS IN CHEESE FACTORY AND DAIRY UTENSILS. MILLAR'S RUBBER PRESS RINGS, an invention of decided value. They prevent the curd from pressing- up around the follower of a cheese hoop, and take the place of press cloths. In pressing- after the cheese has been bandaged, they prevent tiie bursting of the bandage at the edge. This of itself renders them invaluaNe to the cheese-maker. Iil^~ Illustrated Circulars, siviiigr full information, mailed on application. Address CHARLES MILLAR & SON, Utica, N. IT. i %^ o- %/■; i^^% -/ *v7 ^ vOO, V/^' '^ 'b ■o- i^.^ ,0 o. ^-Js- *^ 9- .-0 L' OO v^^" -0 c 'V^. ■^^- .^^^' .-iv - 0' o-^ -7-. ^^1,2%^, ^^: ,x^' ' « .^- 'c*-. .0 o. '\^ '.. .<\^ ^L. ' -^ ,0 0^ o ..'?---, =?.'"-*-.■ „^^ '>■ ^ ^'^ ,^:^ <=L. * ti" *<* ^ i.^ ^^^ ■"^>. A , -. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDDDfl'=3SiaSfl '-. ■'*■;.' •' ■'■■,*> <',,•'■ t' V ■ -• ■ f .^ • '^W -'K •y -...'■»..;■/.;, i , A.. J ■ ■-v., ',(;■;, "TJ)' J'Ti'-^iii**,"' •■'•■.;-«n:Vtf{!-;wvj'\!.- ^ v .'V:', '7■■■;•l:■'•*P.t.I':■:;^/'^ ■'••■■■ '- ■■;•;;;' i'*" -I'- ''^ ''.■^.'rj..''"'lr;!f- •■■' .■^■v:;M;.:j.'ne>f::r^.. ;;;, ':r;;.i.i;fi;,vatjr.,; .%?;;.: m>eii2ii»W£L