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Book £Lfe>i 
 
 Copyright N°- 
 
 COPYRIGin" DEPOSIT. 
 
MANUAL OF EXERCISES 
 
 IN 
 
 HAND SEWING 
 
 ADOPTED BY 
 
 NDUSTRIAL AND GRADED SCHOOLS. 
 
 BY 
 MARGARET J. BLAIR, 
 
 Author of " Sewing and Garment Drafting," 
 
 Instructor of Sewing in the School of Agriculture, 
 University of Minnesota. 
 
 FIRST EDITION. 
 
 ST. PAUL, MINN.: 
 
 WEBB PUBLISHING CO., 
 
 1904. 
 
LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 
 DEC 19 1904 
 
 y Couyrii;ni tntry 
 
 /OoAt ;:^$.^^o^*- 
 <i\J^^ CI. XXc. Noi 
 
 Copy B. 
 
 'K 
 
 
 COPYRIGHTED, 1904, 
 
 BY 
 
 WEBB PUBLISHING CO. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Apron 25 
 
 Back Stitching 5 
 
 Bag 15 
 
 Basting 5-11 
 
 Blind Hemming 64 
 
 Button Holes 36-85 
 
 Buttons 39-87 
 
 Catstitching 6 
 
 Chainstitching 7 
 
 Darning — 
 
 Damask Darning 91 
 
 Stockinet Darning ' 41-89 
 
 Stockinet Web Darning 93 
 
 Three Cornered Darn 18 
 
 Decorative Stitches 75 
 
 Doll's Skirt 30 
 
 Double Hemstitching 7-56 
 
 Drawing Threads 26 
 
 Extension Hems 54 
 
 Faced Hems 54 
 
 Fastenings 87 
 
 Buttons 39 
 
 Button Holes 36-85 
 
 Hook and Eyes 87 
 
 Loops and Eyelets 88 
 
 Feather Stitching 7 
 
 Felled Seam and Hemmed Seams 49 
 
 Flannel Patch 34 
 
 Flannel Seams 83 
 
 French Seams, Back Stitched and Half Back Stitched 
 
 Seam 46 
 
 French Hem 63 
 
 French Knots 75 
 
 Gathering, Gauging and Putting on Band 30-67 
 
vi INDEX. 
 
 Gathering and Putting on a Ruffle 59 
 
 Gussets 69 
 
 Half Back Stitch 46 
 
 Hemmed Patch 81 
 
 Hemmed Seam 49 
 
 Hemming 21 
 
 Blind Hemming 64 
 
 Faced and Extension Hem 54 
 
 French Hem 63 
 
 Hems on Woolen Material and Three Cornered Darn.. 64 
 
 Hemstitched Hem 49 
 
 Rolled Hem 59 
 
 Slip Stitch Hemming 64 
 
 Turning Hem 21 
 
 Herringbone Stitch 6 
 
 Hooks and Eyes 87 
 
 Loops and Eyelets 87 
 
 Loop Stitch 8 
 
 Matching of Stripes 77 
 
 Mitered Corner 75 
 
 Model Apron 25 
 
 Model Bag 15 
 
 Model Doll's Skirt 30 
 
 Model Pillow Slip 23 
 
 Model Sheet 21 
 
 Model Towel 36-56 
 
 Overcasting 6 
 
 Overhand Patch 28-79 
 
 Overhand Stitch 52-6 
 
 Patching — 
 
 Flannel Patch 34 
 
 Hemmed 81 
 
 Overhand 28 .79 
 
 Pillow Slip 23 
 
 Plackets — 
 
 Placket Holes 30 
 
 Skirt Plackets 71 
 
 Sleeve Placket 73 
 
 Putting on Band aO-67 
 
 Putting on Ruffle 59 
 
 Questions and Answers 96 
 
 Rolled and Hemstitched Hems and Putting on a Ruffle. . 59 
 
INDEX. vii 
 
 Running and Basting 43 
 
 Running Stitch 5-9 
 
 Seams — 
 
 Back Stitched Seam 5 
 
 Basting Seams 5-11 
 
 Felled Seam 49 
 
 Flannel Seam 83 
 
 French Seam 46 
 
 Half Back Stitched Seam 46 
 
 Hemmed Seam 49 
 
 Overhanding 28-79 
 
 Sewed 13 
 
 Sewing on Buttons 39 
 
 Sewir. g on Lace 53 
 
 Sewing on Tapes 26-56 
 
 Sheet 21 
 
 Skirt Plackets 71 
 
 Sleeve Plackets 73 
 
 Slip Stitch Hemming 64 
 
 Stitches — 
 
 Backstitching 5 
 
 Basting 5-11 
 
 Catstitching 6 
 
 Chainstitching 7 
 
 Decorative Stitches 75 
 
 Double Hem Stitching , 7 
 
 Feather Stitch 7 
 
 French Knots 75 
 
 Half Back Stitch 46 
 
 Herringbone Stitch 6 
 
 Loop Stitch 8 
 
 On Canvass 5 
 
 Overcasting Stitch 6 
 
 Overhand Stitch 52-6 
 
 Running Stitch 5-9 
 
 Stockinet Darning 41-89 
 
 Stockinet Web 93 
 
 Three Cornered Darning 18 
 
 Towel 36-56 
 
 Turning Hem 21 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 All educators agree that the beginning and suc- 
 cessive steps of education murt harmonize with the 
 corresponding stages of the ch o development. This 
 gives sewing, cutting and fashioning garments one of 
 the first places in the succession of studies to be taken 
 up. The child has scarcely a point of contact with 
 the world that he so readily perceives as that made by 
 his own garments. 
 
 A refined taste in one's dress and belongings has 
 usually been regarded as an acquirement of adult life. 
 But if the child is trained along wholesome natural 
 lines, his taste will develop individuality very early. 
 
 To introduce sewing successfully in the public 
 schools, three important points must be considered. 
 First, the merit of the system. Second, the effect upon 
 the school work and upon the pupil. Third, tlie abil- 
 ity or efficiency of those who superintend or teach the 
 sewing. 
 
 Under a system wdiich is carefully planned and 
 properly carried out, learning to sew will become a 
 pleasant as well as an instructive part of a child's edu- 
 cation. 
 
2 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING 
 
 The system should he adapted to the diflferent 
 grades ; it should be simple and practical ; it should 
 have some relation to the other school work. 
 
 In our work it touches upon animal life through 
 the sheep, silkworm, and other creatures which in one 
 way or another produce textile threads or the sewing 
 implements. In much the same manner it touches up- 
 on plant life. Then, too, arithmetic, drawing, color 
 study, physical training, geography and history may be 
 correlated with sewing in this system. All manual 
 training makes a pupil more active and more observ- 
 ing. It rests certain faculties and interests the pupil 
 in nature. Sewing, properly taught, trains the child 
 also in neatness. 
 
 It is a great advantage to have but one kind of 
 work in a class, which to be taught successfully should 
 not number moi'e than twenty- five, as pupils need in- 
 dividual attention. Yet experience also teaches that 
 it is necessary to give children a variety of work, that 
 is, if a child does not succeed satisfactorily with the 
 work in hand, the first time, give her another piece, 
 and later return to the first instead of insisting that she 
 work on the one piece until it is exact. A child who has 
 had the industrial work used in the kindergarten or 
 lower grades, will have had training to prepare hei' 
 readily to take up the sewing in the fourth grade. 
 The first work given should be a piece of canvas and 
 some of the simple stitches used in sewing. This en- 
 sures regularity of stitch, as well as the method of 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 3 
 
 making it. It is also better to give chiklreu the coarser 
 materials at first, as their little hands need training in 
 holding their work licforc they take np fine work. 
 The next material placed in the pnpil's hands slionhl 
 be gingham or half-l)leached nmslin. The stripes of 
 the "gingham will be a gnide for the stitches, tluis 
 training the piipil to sew straight. As the different 
 kinds of material are taken up, the teacher slionld in- 
 struct the pupils concerning them, and should give in- 
 struction in the use of the implements in the sewing 
 basket. 
 
 The sewing basket, which in itself will lie a delight 
 to the child, should be well equipped with scissors, 
 needles, thread, thimble, ta])e-line, and emery. The 
 orderly keeping of this basket will Udt fail to be a 
 source of pride to the small girl. 
 
 A well graded system of sewing will include reg- 
 ular examinations for which a text Ijook outlining the 
 recpiirements and suggesting questions will be quite 
 indispensable. Essays dealing with some lu'anch of 
 sewing, — the implements used, <»r describing the his- 
 tory of textiles from the shearing of the sheep, the 
 planting of the cotton seed, or the beginning of the 
 life of the silk worm, — may be recpiired, at the judg- 
 ment of the teacher. 
 
 By the time a child completes her grade work she 
 .should be well versed in the relative prices and quality 
 of silk and gingham. She may learn at the age when 
 she is most teachable, how to select her household lin- 
 
4 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 en :iii<l wliv the firm-threaded is cheapest in the end, 
 even if it is a little more expensive at first. 
 
 To teach sewing snccessfnlly the teacher must be 
 ahle to adapt the system to her pnpils and to the time 
 she has at her disposal. Much can he accomplished 
 even in a limited period if the essentials are properly 
 chosen from the elementary work here outlined. 
 
MODEL I. 
 
 STITCHES OK CANVAS. 
 
 Object: To teach regularity of stitches as well as 
 the method of making them. 
 
 Materials: Ada canvas, size 7x0 inches. Mer- 
 cerized crochet cotton, red and green, blue and orange, 
 these colors being complementary to each other. Dult 
 pointed tapestry needles ISTo. 24. 
 
 Fold the canvas lengthwise to find the middle row 
 of holes through which make a row of running stitch- 
 es, using the red cotton. Since running stitches are 
 small basting stitches of equal size, the thread ^^hould 
 pass through each hole in the row. 
 
 Skip one row of holes, and in the next one make 
 a row of basting stitches, using the green cotton. In 
 this row put the needle down through the first hole 
 up through the second, then skipping a hole insert 
 the needle again coming up through the next hole. 
 This makes an uneven basting stitch. Skip two rows 
 of holes, and in the next one make a row of back 
 stitching, using the orange cotton. In this row put 
 the needle down through the first hole, up through the 
 second, tlien back through the first again and up 
 through the canvas one hole ahead of wliere the previ- 
 
6 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING 
 
 ons stitch left tlie canxas. Continue in the sanic man- 
 ner across the canvas. Skip one row of holes and make 
 a roAv of overhanding' over the next two, using the 
 bine cotton. In this row of stitches pnt the needle 
 down through the first hole aiid up through the one 
 under it. Insert the needle again in the hole next 
 to the first one aiid u|) through the one under it. This 
 makes a row of stitches which slant from right to left. 
 Skip one row of holes and make a row of hackstitching 
 like the previous one. 
 
 Skip two rows of holes and beginning at the left 
 make a row of overcasting over the next two, using 
 the green cotton. This row of stitches is made the 
 same as the overhanding except that it is worked from 
 left to right and a hole is left between each stitch. 
 Ski]> one row of holes and over the next three make a 
 r(»w of catstitching using the red cotton. 
 
 In this row begin at the left, hold the thread 
 under the thumb of the left hand and |)ut the needle 
 down throuiih the second hole and up through the first. 
 Carry the thread across and put it doAvn through the 
 iliird hole in the third row of holes and up through 
 the second. Carrv tlu^ thread across to the fourth hole 
 in the first row and continue as before until the row 
 is finished. This stitch is sometimes called "herring- 
 bone" and is used to catch open the seams of flannels, 
 in patching flannel and on raw edged hems, to avoid 
 the ridge formed by folding the edge. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 7 
 
 Skip one row and make another row of overcast- 
 ing like the previous one. Skip two rows of holes 
 and in the next one make a row of chainstitchi np: nsing 
 Ihe orange cotton. 
 
 This stitch is worked towards you. Hold the 
 thi'oad nnder the thumb of the left hand and put the 
 needle down through the first hole and up through the 
 second, bringing it out over the thread. Insert the 
 needle again in the second hole, putting it down at the 
 right of the point where the thread leaves the canvas, 
 thus holding it in place. Come up through the next 
 hole, bringing the needle over the thread as before. 
 
 This results in a series of stitches resembling the 
 links of a chain. The stitches should be uniform and 
 not drawn too tightly. 
 
 C'hainstitching is a method of embroidering often 
 used for outlining patterns. 
 
 Skip a row of holes and over the next three make 
 a row of featherstitching, using the blue cotton. 
 
 This stitch is also worked towards you. Hold the 
 thread under the thumb of the left hand, put the needle 
 down through the first hole in the top row and bring 
 it up through the second hole in the middle row, bring- 
 ing the needle out over the thread. Take the second 
 stitch on the opposite side, pointing the needle toward 
 the middle row of holes. For the second stitch the 
 needle should enter the canvas in the third row of holes 
 opposite the second one in the middle row, and come 
 up through the third hole in the middle and over the 
 
8 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 thread, which is held down bv the thumb. Continue 
 in the same manner until the row is completed. 
 
 Two or more stitches instead of one may be taken 
 on each side. Feather stitch or brier stitch is often 
 used in embroidery and fancy work, as well as in sew- 
 ing. It is used very often in finishing the seams, 
 hems and tucks of flannel garments. The beauty of 
 featherstitching is in uniformity of the stitch. 
 
 Skip one row of holes and make another one of 
 chainstitching like the previous one. 
 
 Skip one row of holes and over the next three 
 make the loop stitch, using the red cotton. 
 
 This stitch is worked from left to right, holding, 
 the edge of the material towards you. 
 
 Hold the thread under the thumb and put the 
 needle down through the first hole and up through the 
 second one beneath it, bringing it out over the thread. 
 Repeat this process until the row is completed. Loo]) 
 stitch is used to secure and ornament the edges of wool- 
 en materials. It is also used for working the edges of 
 doilies by making the stitches close together. 
 
 The row of running stitches being in the middle 
 of the model, repeat all the other stitches on the other 
 half of the model. Overcast the ends of the model 
 with the red cotton, leavino- half an inch for fringinsf. 
 
MODEL II. 
 
 KUNNI^G STITCH. 
 
 Object: To learn the running stitch and its use. 
 Material: A piece of striped gingham or half- 
 bleached muslin ; size 0x3 inches, needles ]^o. 8, thread 
 N'o. 60 (red). 
 
 Turn a half incli fold on one edge of the muslin 
 and, beginning at the right to sew, take several small 
 
 Model IT — Running Stitch. 
 
 even stitches upon the needle at a time and sew across, 
 keeping the line of sewing one-eighth of an inch from 
 the fold or following the stitch in the gingham. Great 
 care should be taken to fasten the thread firmly and 
 neatly. This is done by taking two stitches in the 
 same place, one over the other. 
 
10 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 A second row of stitclies shonld be made one-half 
 inch below tlie first. The teacher .should work for reg- 
 ularity of stitch and of spaces, and if the stitches 
 are exactly even, as tliev shonld be, the work will look 
 the same on both sides. 
 
 Running, which is composed of small stitches of 
 eqnal size, is nsed in seams that are not subject to mncli 
 strain, in darning, and in oatherins'. 
 
MODEL III. 
 BASTIXG STITCHES. 
 
 (Jhjeci: To leani liow to baste. 
 
 Materia]: Gingliam or lialf-bleaclied muslin 6 
 by (i inches, needle 'No. 8, thread No. 60 (red). 
 
 Turn a half inch fold on one side of the mnslin; 
 coiuincnce at the right and baste across the material 
 one-eighth of an inch from the edge. In basting the 
 knot is left on the rii>'ht side so as to be easilv removed 
 
 Model III — Basting Stitch. 
 
 when the basting threads are cnt and drawn from the 
 
 work. The thread is fastened the same as in rmining. 
 
 The first stitches in the model are small, even 
 
12 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWINCx. 
 
 basting stitches, one-eighth of an inch nnderneath bv 
 one-eighth inch on top. This method of basting is 
 nsed for the seams of any garment that is to be fitted. 
 
 The next is an nneven basting stitch one-eighth 
 inch nnderneath and one-fourth incli above. This is 
 nsed for basting seams that are to be overhanded. 
 
 Then comes an uneven basting, one-eighth inch bv 
 one-half inch wliich is used for basting hems or seams 
 for machine sewing. 
 
 The next basting, which is composed of three stitch- 
 es, each one-eighth inch long and a stitch three-fourths 
 inch, is used for basting the seams of skirts, and gives 
 firmness for fitting. 
 
 A pupil should be taught the need of basting all 
 work before it is sewed, since basting stitches keep the 
 work in place and the line of basting should be so 
 straight that it will serve as a guide for the stitching. 
 
MODEL IV. 
 SEWED SEAM. 
 
 Exercise: A basting; B sewing; C overcasting. 
 
 Object: To learn how to sew a seam. 
 
 Materials: Two pieces of gingham or unbleached 
 muslin 3 by 6 inches, ISTo. 8 needle and No. 60 thread 
 (red). 
 
 Place the two pieces of material together and baste 
 one-fourth inch from the edge, using an uneven basting 
 
 Model IV — Sewed Seam. 
 
 stitch. Sew just below the basting, taking three or four 
 short running stitches of even length. In the next 
 three commence with a back stitch by inserting the 
 needle where it left the cloth in the next to the last 
 
14 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING, 
 
 stiteli of the previous three ruiniiiig stitches. Continue 
 sewing in the same manner until the seam is finished. 
 Fasten the tliread as in running. Jn this seam tlie pupil 
 shdulfl he taught to seAV without a knot, hut to fasten 
 the tliread l)y taking oiu' stitch, di'awing the thread near- 
 ly through the material, then taking one or two stitches 
 hack to where the first was started. Finish the seam by 
 overcasting the edges so that they will not fray or ravel. 
 Before overcasting the seam, the edges, if they have 
 raveled very much, may he carefully trimmed. The 
 overcasting is begun with a knot which is concealed 
 by taking the first stitch from the inside of the piece 
 nearest tlie seam sewed. Beginning at the left make 
 the stitches over the raw edge. When properly made 
 the overcasting stitches should be uniform, the distance 
 lietween them and the d(']ith l>eing the same. 
 
MODEL V. 
 
 BAG. 
 
 Object: To teach overliaiiding'. 
 
 Exercises: A, overlianding ; B, hLMummg; C, inni- 
 iiing. 
 
 Materials: Giiigliani 5 by IS inches, thread No. 
 70 (white), needle Ko. 8. 
 
 First make a lunii on the twr> long sides of the ging- 
 ham, teaching the pupil to turn over the edge one- 
 eighth inch, creasing it and then tnrn the fold down 
 the desired width for the hem and baste it. In this 
 place the hem shonld l)e but a little more than one-eighth 
 inch in width. When hemming the pn])il shonld be 
 taught always to insert the needle at the same angle 
 and to take the same quantity of material on the needle. 
 The space between the stitches should always be the 
 same. 
 
 In hemming the knot can be hidden in the hem. 
 Take up two threads of the material, slant the needle 
 nj) through the edge of the fold. For the next stitch 
 insert the needle very nearly underneath the point 
 where the thread left the material and proceed as be- 
 fore. Across the ends make hems one and three-fourths 
 
16 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 mm 4 »M^%i " 
 
 inches wide. Baste the sides of the bag together and 
 overhand the seams u|) to the wide hems. 
 
 Hold the work firmly between the thnmb and fore- 
 finger of the left hand, never over the first finger, as 
 
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 in a long seam <mk' side will be taken np more than the 
 other and the end.>^ will come ont nnevenly. Com- 
 mence at tlic right to sew. Pnt the needle through 
 both edges at right angles with the seam and with the 
 point towards the seamstress. The stitches shonld not 
 be too far apart, too dee]), nor too tightly drawn, or a 
 

 'y\\mSmsj)\\ 
 
 STITCHES ON CANVAS. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 17 
 
 ridge will be formed when the seam is opened. One- 
 qiuirter inch above the hemming of the wide hems 
 put in a row of running stitches, thus forming a space 
 for the cord or tape. In order that the bag may be 
 easily opened, or closed, two pieces of the cord or tape 
 are used. Insert one in the space prepared for it, carry 
 it through both sides and out at the same place from 
 which it started. The other cord goes in on the oppo- 
 site side, also coming out where it entered. The place 
 where the cord or tape is juined should be hidden in the 
 hem. 
 
MODEL VI. 
 
 THREE-COEXEKKl) DAEX. 
 
 Exercise: A. dai'iiing; ]>, loop-stitcli. 
 
 Object : To learii liow to mend a tear. 
 
 Materials: Piece flannel 4 by 4 inches, thread 
 same color as flannel, 'Xo. GO, No. 8 needle, mercerized 
 spool cotton. 
 
 Cnt a three-cornered hole in the flannel (Fig. VI) 
 th(-u wirli thread the same color draw the corners neatly 
 togethei- with several rnnning stitches, holding the tear 
 firmly between the thnnd) and first finger of the left 
 hand, to prevent the edges from raveling. 
 
 The corners in plac(\ draw the sides of the tear to- 
 gether in the same manner. IJegin darning at one end 
 using line i-inining stitches. Care shonld he taken to 
 cariw tlie thread the same distance from the tear, each 
 time, ami not to draw the ihrcad. lagged edges shonld 
 not be cut away but darned down. Always darn on the 
 right side, and when finished press on the wrong side. 
 If it is well done it can scarcely be noticed. 
 
 Finish the edge of the model with the loop stitcli. 
 nsing the mercerized cotton. Bring the needle nj) 
 throuiih the edo-e of the matei'ial and holding the tlii'ead 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 19 
 
 (luwii with the thiiinh of the k't't hand, insert the neecUe 
 i}i the material again at the desired depth and bring it 
 ont (jver tlie threaih Proceed in the same manner to tlie 
 
 MODEI, vi — 
 Three C'okneijed I)arx. 
 
 corner where one stitch slionld come directly over the 
 corner, and in the stitch ])receding and the one following 
 the needle is inserted in the material at the same point. 
 This stitch is worked tVoni left to riolit. 
 
^FODEL VII SlIKKT. 
 
MODEL VII. 
 
 MODEL SHEET. 
 
 Exercise: A, turning hems; B, basting; C, licni- 
 niing. 
 
 Object: To learn bow to beni. 
 
 Materials: White muslin (> bv 10 inches. White 
 thread No. 80, needle No. 9. 
 
 Turn and baste a hem one-eighth of an inch wide on 
 the lengthwise sides of the model. Hem these hems 
 and for the top of the sheet tnrn a hem one and one-half 
 inches wide and for the foot one that is one-half incli 
 wide. The ends of hems slioidd be overhanded togeth- 
 er. 
 
M<j|)KL VIII — I'lLT.ow Slip. 
 
MODEL VIII. 
 MODEL PILLOW SLIP. 
 
 Exercises: A, basting; B, overlianding ; C, over- 
 casting; and L), running. 
 
 Ohjeet: Teaching different stitches used on piL 
 low slip. 
 
 Materials: White ninslin 7 by 8 inches; No. 9 
 needle, Xo. 80 thread. 
 
 Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of an 
 inch from the edge. Fold back the torn edges one- 
 fonrth of an inch and Ijaste as for selvedges. Overhand 
 these two seams b_v fastening with two little stitches 
 over each other. 
 
 As the beginning, joining, and fastening of the 
 thread varies in the different kinds of seams, the teach- 
 er should take s])ecial care to have the pupil thoroughly 
 understand and carefully folloAV instructions. 
 
 In overlianding the work is held firmly lengthwise 
 between the thund) and first linger of the left hand, but 
 never over the tinger which will cause the seam to be 
 uneven. 
 
 Overcast the raw edges and finish the pillow slip 
 with a hem an inch wide. 
 

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MODEL IX. 
 APRON. 
 
 Exercises: A, lieinniing; B, g-athering; C, putting 
 oil band. 
 
 Object: To teach i>'atliering and putting on a band. 
 
 Materials: Gingliam 7 by 7; thread No. 80 
 (wliite), needle No. 9. 
 
 Baste and lieni a hem one-eighth of an inch wide 
 on each side of the apron. Across the bottom of the 
 apron make a hem three-fourths of an inch deep. Fold 
 the apron to tind the middle, notching it at the top, take 
 on the needle at a time as many small miming stitches 
 as possible. Draw the stitches together on the needle 
 and fasten the thread by winding it over and under the 
 eye and point of the needle. Then hold the gathers 
 between the thumb and iinger of the left hand, and 
 with the other pnll each gather in place. Unwind the 
 thread and pnll the nredle through. Repeat with each 
 needleful. Place the notch to the middle of the band 
 and spread the gath.ers so that they will cover a space 
 three and one half inches wide. Holding the gathers 
 toward yon, baste and then half backstitch them to 
 the band. Fold over the band so as to cover the gathers 
 and turn in the edges. When basted, overhand the ends 
 and edges of the band, but hem it down across the gath- 
 ers. 
 
MODEL X. 
 MODEL TOWEL. 
 
 Exercises: A, drawing threads; B, hems; C, hem- 
 stitching; D, sewing on tape. 
 
 Object: To teach how tn hemstitch, and sew a 
 tape on a toweL 
 
 Materials : Crash or ghiss toweling -t bv 7 inches, 
 tape 3 inches, thread Xo. (:!0 (white), needle Xo. 8. 
 
 Measnre np from the edge one and one-fonrth inch- 
 es, and with the point ot" the needle pick ont one of the 
 coarser threads, removing it cai'cfnlly with the right 
 hand, so as not to break it. Six threads shoidd bo 
 drawn. Make narrow hems on each side of the towel 
 and then turn the hems at the ends, creasing the edge 
 one-eighth of an inch and baste them even with the 
 threads tirst drawn. Fasten the threads in the hem 
 at the left side, and pointing the needle towards von, 
 take np fonr or live of the cross threads. Draw the 
 needle throngh and take one stitch as in ordinary hem- 
 ming, being carefnl not to take the stitch too deep. 
 Repeat this nntil the hem is completed. . As both edges 
 of the draAvn threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the 
 operation on the other side. Hemstitching is one of the 
 neatest methods of hnishing the ends of towels. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 27 
 
 Overhand the ends of the tape together, a little 
 more than the depth of the hem. Place the overhand- 
 ing on the tape to the middle of the hem, so that the 
 
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 MooKL X — Towel. 
 
 raw edges will he towards the end. Stitch it down. 
 Then turn tlie tape back so as to cover the stitching 
 and hem it down all around. This will prevent the 
 tape from pulling oif easily. A linen or cotton tape 
 should be used for towels. 
 
MODEL XI. 
 
 OVERHAND PATCH. 
 
 Object : To teaeli how to set in a })ateli. 
 Exercises: A, basting; B, overhanding ; L\ over- 
 castins:. 
 
 Model XI — Ovekhand Patch. 
 
 Materials: Blue cheeked gingham cut in two pie- 
 ces, G by 6 and ?> bv 3 inches; thread No. 90 (white), 
 needle 'No. 9. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 29 
 
 Cut out of one corner of the 6 by 6 inch piece a 
 square 2f bv 2^ inches, then cut the corners diagonally 
 one-eighth of an inch. Fold over one edge of the patch 
 and one edge where it is to be joined, each one-fonrth 
 of an inch. Place the sides together, having the folded 
 edges even and baste. Overhand one side of the patch, 
 remove the basting and sew the other side in the same 
 manner. Care should be taken to exactly match the 
 checks and not to take the stitches too deep. Press on 
 the wrong side and if instructions are carefully followed 
 it will not show wh('r(> patch has been set in. Overcast 
 the raw edges of the patch. Finish the model with a 
 hem on all sides one-eighth of an inch wide. 
 
MODEL XII. 
 
 DOLL'S SKIRT. 
 
 Exercises: A, drafting doll's skirt; B, basting 
 soanis ; C, sewing seams ; D, overcasting ; E, placket 
 liole; F, gathering; G, pntting on hand; H, hem. 
 
 1/ 
 
 Model XII — r>OLL's Skikt. 
 
 To draft a skirt for a doll two measnroments are 
 required — the length and the width aronnd the hips. 
 
Hip 
 
 Top of 
 Front 
 
 Bottom of 
 Front 
 
 Top of Side 
 Gore 
 
 Bottom of Side 
 Gore 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 14 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 15 
 
 2f 
 
 3f 
 
 4f 
 
 H 
 
 16 
 
 2i 
 
 H 
 
 ^ 
 
 H 
 
 17 
 
 2f 
 
 3f 
 
 4f 
 
 8f 
 
 18 
 
 2f 
 
 3f 
 
 4f 
 
 8f 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 31 
 
 Table of Measurements : 
 
 Bottom of Side k,.„i. 
 
 Gore ''"'^^'^ 
 
 12 
 
 12:1 
 
 12^ 
 
 12$ 
 12f 
 
 The ineasiireiiients taken for the doll's skirt illns- 
 ti-ated were : 
 
 Hip 14 inches 
 
 Length 10 inches 
 
 Front : For the f i-ont, measure down to 1, one- 
 fourth of an inch for the curve at the top, and from 1 
 to 2 the reipiii'ed length. From 1 measure down to 
 3, or to the largest part of tlie hi]i, to find the hip line, 
 and from 3 measure out to 4, the width of the front 
 on the hip line. From 2 measure out to 5 the width 
 of the bottom of the front lu'cadth. Draw a line 
 from the to]) of the ]n)]ier through 4 to 5 and mark 
 off the length of skirt, <1, and from the bottom of the 
 front draw a curved line froin 2 to (i. At the top meas- 
 ni'C in ono-fourth inch to 7, and draw an outward curved 
 line to an inch and a half al)ovc 4. Draw a curved line 
 from 7 to ] for the toj) of the front breadth. 
 
 Side Gore: For the side gore, measure down to 1, 
 onedialf inch for the cui've at the top. From 1 measure 
 lown tri 2 the recpiired length, and from 1 to 3 find 
 
32 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 the liip line. From 3 measure out to -i the wi<hh of 
 the side gore on the hip line, and from 2 out to 5 the 
 width of the bottom of the side gore. 
 
 Draw a line from the top of the paper through 4 to 
 5 and mark off the length of tlie skirt, 6. From 1 
 measure in one-fourtli inch to 7, and draw an outward 
 curve to the point one and one-half inches above 3. 
 Draw a curved line from the top of the second seam to 
 7 for the top of the side gore, and connect 2 and 6 
 with an outward curved line for the bottom. The back 
 breadth should be a straight piece. Having drafted 
 and cut the pattern the pupil should be taught to place 
 the pattern on the material so as to waste as little of tlie 
 cloth as possible. 
 
 ( *ut the front on a lengthwise fold of the material. 
 The back is a straight piece and slKuild be cut first. 
 
 The measurement from 1 to '■) should be reduced 
 one-fourth of an inch for each inch decrease in the 
 length of the doll, or increased in the same proportion 
 for a large (bill. 
 
 Baste the seams together using an uneven basting 
 stitch. Make a sewed seam, sewing just below the bast- 
 ing, overcasting the edges of the seam. 
 
 Cut an opening for a placket in the center of the 
 back two and one-half inches long. Make a hem one- 
 half iiicli wide on the right side and a hem one-eighth 
 of an inch wide on the opposite side, turning the hem 
 to the right side. Place the wide hem over the narrow 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 33 
 
 one and linish across the bottom with two rows of back- 
 stitehing', one-sixteenth of an inch apart. 
 
 The back is gathered across the top. 
 
 Place the center of the front to the center of the 
 band, which for a skirt of this measurement should be 
 cut eleven inches long and one and one-half inches wide. 
 Baste the band on, holding the skirt towards you, then 
 sew, using the half backstitch. Turn the band over to 
 the wrong side thus covering the seam, and hem it 
 down. The ends of the band should be overhanded. 
 
 Make a hem three-fourths of an inch wide around 
 the bottom of the skirt. 
 
 Place a button and Imttun liole in the band of the 
 t^kirt. 
 
MODEL XIII. 
 
 FLAXXEL PATCH. 
 
 Objccl : To learn how to patch liaiineL 
 Exercises: A eatstitch. 
 
 Model XIII — Flanxel Patch. 
 
 Materials: Fhiiniel squares 5 by 5 and 2 by 2 
 inches. Mercerized spool cotton ; needle Xo. 7. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 35 
 
 Cut a hole in tlie center of the hirge piece of flan- 
 nel one inch square. Baste the patch evenly over the 
 Jiole. Turn the patch over and catstitch it on aronnd 
 the hole, heing careful not to leave any of the threads 
 of the fabric free to ravel. If the stitches are taken 
 just over the raw edges and are not too large, the edges 
 of the hole or patch need not be turned in. 
 
 Finish the model arcnnid the sides with the lo^p 
 stitch. 
 
MODEL XIV. 
 
 BUTTON HOLES. 
 
 ObjccI : W) learn how tn make bnttonlioles. 
 
 Exercises: A, ovci-liaiuliuii ; J], makine' button- 
 holes. 
 
 Material: Strij)e(l liiniihaiii 4 liy 5 inches, thread 
 No. 50 (white), needle No. 8. 
 
 Fold the o-iiio-hani twice so that there will be three 
 thicknesses, turn in the raw edi^es, baste and overhand 
 them togethei". 
 
 The jtupil slmnld l)c taniihr to tiiid the width of 
 the Imttdii and tlien t<) lianuc tlic l)ntt()nh()le scissors 
 
 ^Iduki. XI y — ]!i riuN ui.ii.Ks. 
 
 so that the burton lutlc Avheii cut will Ix' a little larger 
 than the bntton. 
 
 In niakinii the l)ntt()n holes alwavs nse buttonhole 
 scissors to cut them, letting tlie jitipil practice first ei- 
 tlicn- on paper or muslin until slie thoroughly under- 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 37 
 
 stands using tlieni. Overhand the edges closely, but 
 not any deeper than is necessary to hold the threads. 
 In working the hnttonhole always begin at the end far- 
 tliest from the edge of the material, working from 
 the right towards the left, holding the Imttonhole firmly 
 between the tlnnnb and hrst linger of tlie left hand 
 jiiul parallel with the seamstress. Insert the needle with 
 the point toward the wcn-ker, drawing it but lialfway 
 throngh. Take the two threads at the eye of the needle 
 and bring them aronnd nnder the point of the needle 
 from right to left. Draw the needle ont and pull the 
 thread np at right angles to the bnttonhole, thus form- 
 ing a knot, or purl, on the edge. The next stitch is 
 done in the same way. (^^re shonld be taken to make 
 each stitch exactly the same depth and the same distance 
 a])art. The space between the stitches shonld be the 
 width of the nei'dle, which will leave roDUi for the purl 
 at the edge. 
 
 When the buttonhole has been worked across one 
 side, tnrn the end l)y making several stitches close to- 
 gether, so that the buttonhole will be rouuded. Con- 
 tinne on the other side, taking the last stitch opposite 
 the first. Kiuish the buttonhole with a l)ar, which is 
 made by t;iking fou.r stitches down through the first 
 stitch taken aud np on the opposite side throngh the 
 last stitch taken. Tliese stitches shonld he drawn tight- 
 ly so as to bring the sides close together. 
 
 Work several liuttonhole stitches over them, being 
 careful not to catch into the material. Fasten the 
 
38 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 thread bj bringing it throngh to the wrong side and tak- 
 ing two small stitches one over the other. 
 
 The pnpil shonld start with a thread long enough 
 to complete the buttonhole, but if it is found to be 
 too short the thread may be fastened on the wrong side. 
 A new thread may also be fastened in the same way and 
 brought up through the last purl. Proceed with the 
 buttonhole stitch as if a new thread had not been nec- 
 essary, 
 
 A child will need more than ordinary attention 
 in making a buttonhole in order that she may learn 
 the correct method. 
 
 For bands or wherever there is much strain on the 
 button, the buttonhole is cut in the direction of the pull. 
 On the shirt waist front or where there is little strain 
 the buttonhole is cut at right angles to the pull. 
 
MODEL XV. 
 
 SEWIXG OX BUTTOXS. 
 
 Object: To learn Iioav to sew on bnttons. 
 
 Exercises: A, overlianding' ; B, sewing' on bnttons. 
 
 Material: Ginglunn 4 by 5 incbes, 4 bnttons, Xo. 
 8 needle, Xo. 70 tbread (wbite). 
 
 Fold over one of tbe lengtlnvise edges of tlie ging- 
 liam, tben fold it twice more so as to liave tliree tbiek- 
 nesses of tbe material. Baste one-eigbtb incb from tbe 
 folded edges, nsing a small uneven Inisting stiteb and 
 tben overband tbe ed<;es. In sewing on tbe bnttons 
 
 r> 
 
 r> 
 
 Model XV — 
 Sewing ox Ruttoxs. 
 
 draw tbe needle tbrongb tbe material from tbe njiper 
 side, onedialf incb from tlie f(dded edge, so tbat tbe 
 knot may be concealt'd iiiub']' tbe button. Bring tbe 
 needle up to tbe rigbt si(b> again and tbrongb a bolo in 
 llie l)utton. Place a [)iu across tbe top of tbe button, 
 
40 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 leaviiiii' it tliei'e while the l)iittoii is securely sewed on. 
 Remove the ])in which will loosen the stitches and brini^ 
 the needle up between the button and material ; wind 
 the thread several times around the stitches and fasten 
 it (»n the wron >• side. 
 
 rsin<>' the ])in in this way makes mom tnv tljc 
 material when the liarment is buttoned. This method 
 of sewine: on a button is the one most coinmonlv used. 
 
MODEL XVI. 
 
 STOCKING DAENIA^G. 
 
 Object: To teach the method of darning hosiery. 
 
 Materials: VayA board 3f bv o^ inches. Stock- 
 inet 3 hv -'5 inches, darning cotton, black, and same shade 
 as the stockinet. Darning needle No. 7. 
 
 iillflill 
 
 MOOEI. X\'l StuCKI.NKT JtAU.N. 
 
 Baste the stockinet tirmlv on the card board to pre- 
 vent its being stretched or drawn out of shape, and cnt 
 the hole in a line with the stitches. Remove the cut 
 
42 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 loops, and run a thread around the hole, aliout one- 
 fourth of an inch from the edge. Form the warp 
 thread of the black darning cotton, which should be 
 very close together, by bringing the darning cotton up 
 through the loop stitch at one edge and down through 
 the stitch on the opposite edge. All of these stitches 
 should be taken up so that they will not ravel back 
 after the darn is completed, and so that there will be 
 no roughness on the right side of the stockinet. A 
 small loop of the darning cotton should Ije left at each 
 end to allow for shrinkage in wasiiing. 
 
 When the warp threads are all in, begin at the 
 lower right hand side of the hole to lill in the woof 
 threads, taking up the alternate threads of the warp. 
 In the next row only those threads missed in the preced- 
 ing one are taken up. The woof threads should be put 
 in as close together as possible. Continue in the same 
 manner until the hole is filled. Both the warp and 
 woof threads should be carried at least one-fourth of 
 an inch beyond the hole in the stockinet so that the 
 darning may be firm and not pull away from the worn 
 edges of the stockinet. 
 
MODEL XVII. 
 RTJ^IilXG A^B BASTING. 
 
 Object: To teach miming and basting, and 
 straight sewing. 
 
 Exercises: Running and basting. 
 
 Materials: Unbleached or half-bleached mnslin G 
 by 12 inches. jSTeedle ISTo. 8, thread, GO (red). 
 
 Turn a half inch fold across one end of the muslin. 
 Beginning at the right one-eighth of an inch from the 
 edge, make a row of small even rnnning stitches. Hold 
 the work firmly between the tlunnb and first finger of 
 each hand, and using as free wrist motion as possible, 
 take several stitches on the needle at a time. Continue 
 in the same manner until the row is finished. One-half 
 inch below the first line of running stitches, make an- 
 other just the same. 
 
 Turn a fold one-fourth of an inch wide across the 
 other end of the model, and bring the fold up so that 
 it will be half an inch below the last row of running 
 stitches, basting it with white thread to hold it in place. 
 
 One-eighth of an inch below the second fold, make 
 a row of even l)asting stitches that are one-eighth of an 
 inch underneath and one-eighth of an inch on top, using 
 
44 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 the red thread. This is the method of bastin,i: any ^ar- 
 ment that is to be fitted, as a waist or jacket. The 
 stitches being small the seams will not stretch ;'part. 
 One-half inch below these stitches make a row 
 of uneven basting stitches that are one-eis'hth of an 
 
 V 
 
 Model XVII^ 
 kfnning and basting. 
 
 inch nnderncath and one-foiii'th of an indi on to]). 
 When hems are to be liemmed b_v hand or scams over 
 handed, whether selvedge or a fold, they sliould be 
 basted witli this stitch. 
 
 The third row is also an uneven l)asring stitch and 
 is one-eighth of an inch nnderncath and one-half of an 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 45 
 
 inch on t(tp. Following this are basting stitches one- 
 eighth l»,v tlireo-foiirths of an inch and one-half by 
 one-half <if an inch, a crosswise basting, which is nsed 
 to join a material to a lining. The last row is com- 
 posed (if tlirce-eighths of an inch stitches and a long- 
 stitch. This liasting stitch is the best for basting the 
 seams of a skirt. 
 
 All (if tlic lines of sewing on this model begin 
 witli a knor on top and are finished bv taking two 
 small sfitcli! s o\-er each other. 
 
MODEL XVIII. 
 
 PKENCH SEAM, BACKSTITCHED AT\"D HALF 
 BACKSTITCHED SEAM. 
 
 Ohjcct : To teach the method of making a French 
 scam and a Back'^titched seam. 
 
 Exercises: Running-, backstitching and overcast- 
 ing. 
 
 Materials: Unhleaclied or half -bleached mnslin 
 cut into three pieces, 3 bv G inches and 5^- by 6 inches. 
 The latter should be folded to cut two pieces each 2:|- 
 by 3^ inches. Xeedle Xo. S, thread 60, red. 
 
 Baste the straight sides of one of the 2] by 3-| 
 pieces to the 3 by 6 ])iece, basting one-eighth of an inch 
 from the edge and making the seam on the right side of 
 the material. Sew the scam with a l)aek stitch and 
 two or three running stitches, making them just below 
 the line of basting. Having fastened the thread secure- 
 ly, remove the 1 tasting, trim the seam one-eighth from 
 stitching and turn the seam to the wrong side and sew 
 it again, making the second row of stitches far enough 
 below the first row so tliat the raw edge will not show 
 on the right side. 
 
 For the second seam baste the tAvo bias edges to- 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING, 
 
 47 
 
 getlier making the line of the basting one-fourth of an 
 inch from the edge. Sew half the seam jnst below the 
 basting with the backstitch using a half backstitch for 
 the last half of the seam. This stitch is similar to 
 
 ' / I ii /^ ' 
 
 ///■-/■'■ 
 
 Model XVIII — 
 French Seaji — Cack-stitched and Half Back-stitched Sea.m. 
 
 the back stitch, the difference being that the needle is 
 put only halfway back in the preceding stitch, thus 
 leaving a space between the stitches. This stitch is 
 
48 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 used for sewing' on gathers. Finish the seam by over- 
 casting the raw edges beginning at the left and taking 
 the stitches loosely through and over the edges. To 
 niahe the stitches uniform the distance between them 
 and tlie depth should he the same. 
 
MODEL XIX. 
 
 fellp:i) seam, hemmed seam. 
 
 Object: To learn the method of making felled 
 and hemmed seams. 
 
 Exercises : Sewing a seam and hemming. 
 
 Materials: Lone- cloth or anv soft bleached mus- 
 ]iu cut into three pieces, 3 by 6 inches and 5^ by 6 
 inches. The latter should be folded so as to cnt two 
 pieces each 2| by 3:j inches. ]^eedle ^o. 9, thread, 
 white, 'No. 90. 
 
 Baste the straight side of one of the 2^ by 3:^ 
 pieces to the 3 by 6 piece, making the line of basting one- 
 fourth of an inch from the edge. Just below the bast- 
 ing sew the seam using a backstitch and several running 
 stitches. Fasten the thread securely, and trimming 
 the edge toward you one-eighth of an inch fold the un- 
 t rimmed side over the cut side and baste it down on 
 the material, making a flat seam. It should then be 
 hemmed by hand, even though in the garment making 
 the first stitching should be done by machine, for on a 
 garment this seam is usually a bias seam and when 
 laundered the hand sewing will be less liable to break 
 than machine hemming. This seam is more easily 
 
50 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 laiiiulered than the French seam and is, therefore, bet- 
 ter for most nndergarments. 
 
 MODKL XIX — 
 
 Felled Seaji. Hemmed Seam. 
 
 In making the hemmed seam, place the bias edge 
 of the third piece overlapping the bias edge of the oth- 
 er one-fonrth of an inch and baste throngh the center. 
 Then crease an^l hem alike dh l)0th sides. 
 
 A k]iot slionld be nsi'd in these seams and finished 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 51 
 
 ])y fastening •with two small stitches one over the 
 other. 
 
 In the backstitching the stitches should all be of 
 the same length and when finished the stitching should 
 look like machine sewins; on the ri^ht side. 
 
MODEL XX. 
 
 OVERHANDIXG. 
 
 Object: To learn overbanding. 
 
 Exercises: Overhandino;, hemming' and sewing on 
 
 lace. 
 
 McpDKI. XX OVERHANDING. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth, or any soft bleached nii:s- 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 53 
 
 ]iii, cut in two pieces each o by 7 inches, with the sel- 
 vedge on one side. !^[eedle No. 0, thread No. 90, lace 
 9 inches. 
 
 Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of 
 an inch from the edge, nsing the one-eighth by one- 
 fonrth basting. Beginning at the right, overhand the 
 two edges together. If the stitches are taken too deep 
 long stitches will appear on the right side when the 
 seam is opened ont flat. They should not be made too 
 close together or drawn too tight or a ridge will be 
 formed. Make a hem an eighth of an inch wide on the 
 two long sides of the model and an inch hem across 
 one end. Hem the ends of lace one-eighth of an inch 
 wide. Find the middk' of the lace and pin it to the 
 middle of the model. Pin the end of the lace to the 
 edge of the model. Quarter both lace and model and 
 pin those points together. Continue in the same way 
 until the divisions have become (piite small. Then, 
 holding the lace toward you, overhand it on, putting 
 the needle through eacli mesh in the educ of tbe lace. 
 
MODEL XXI. 
 FACED AND EXTENSION HEMS. 
 
 Object: To learn tho method of making faced and 
 extension hems. 
 
 iA 
 
 Model XXI — 
 Faced and Extension Hems. 
 
 Exercises: Turning hem and hemming. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth or very soft Ideached mus- 
 lin, cut into three pieces, two of them 6 l)y 4, the other 
 6 by 2 inches; needle No. 0, thread No. 90, wliite. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 55 
 
 Place the long edge of the two 6 by 4 pieces to- 
 getlier, baste and sew, nsing two running stitches and 
 a backstitch. Scav the smaller piece on the opposite side 
 for a faced hem and press the seam open, to make it 
 turn easily. Make a hem an eighth of an inch wide 
 on the two long sides of the model. For the extension 
 hem fold over the edge of the larger piece one-eighth 
 of an inch and baste it on a line with the seam and 
 hem. For the faced hem turn a fold on the edge of 
 the small piece one-eighth of an inch wide and fold 
 the piece over on the center piece, turning it on the 
 seam ; baste and hem it down. 
 
MODEL XXII. 
 
 MODEL TOWEL. 
 
 Object : To teach double hemstitching and sew- 
 ing on of tapes. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming and hemstitching. 
 
 Materials: Crash. 4^ by 8 inches, needle No. 8, 
 thread 'Xo. 80 (white), linen tape size 'No. 1. 
 
 One and one-half inches from the ends draw six 
 threads which is the correct number to be drawn in all 
 materials to be hemstitched. Before hemstitching the 
 ends of the towel, hem the sides with a narrow hem. 
 Then turn a hem on the ends of the towel, basting it 
 even with the first thread drawn. 
 
 Fasten the thread in the hem at the left side and 
 pointing the needle towards yon, take up fonr or five 
 of the cross threads. Draw the needle through and 
 take one stitch, as in ordinary hemming, being careful 
 not to take the stitch too deep. Repeat this, until the 
 hem is completed. Since both edges of the drawn 
 threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the operation on 
 the other side. 
 
 Fold the tape and overhand the sides together from 
 llie ends, np to the de])th of the hem. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 57 
 
 Sew the tape on the wrong side of the towel, pla- 
 cing it so that the raw edges Avill be towards the end, 
 
 .vMi»«-.-vv\\v\\\v».«nv\vuv\\\\vuv.\ut\u«t»mu\nmHuu"« 
 
 
 .%\jvv:jc* 
 
 L».' .>.».'.' '^i^iVtV-'A?* 
 
 n- 
 
 Model XXII — Towel. 
 
 and stitch it on. 'I'hen tnrning the tape back so as to 
 
S3 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 cover tlie stitching, hem it down on each side. Tliis 
 will make it strong and not easily pulled off. 
 
 A flat loop should be sewed on a jacket or skirt 
 hand. The ends of the tape should be turned under 
 and hemmed down. A row of back stitching made 
 across the tape, one-eighth of an inch from the ends, 
 will make the tape more durable. A woolen or silk 
 tape is best for dresses. 
 
MODEL XXIII. 
 
 ROLLED AND HEMSTITCHED HEMS. 
 
 Object: To learii the method of making rolled 
 jind hemstitched hems, gathering and putting on a 
 ruffle. 
 
 Exercises: Ilemminii,', hcmstitchinii", ffatherinff 
 and baekstitehing. 
 
 Materiah: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus- 
 lin 6 by 7 inches. For the ruffle, the same material 
 9 by li inches. Xeedle Xo. 10, thread No. 100. 
 
 The sides of this model are finished with a rolled 
 hem, which is made by rolling the edge of the ma- 
 terial lietween the forefinger and thund) of the left 
 hand, lienniiing as rolled, using the plain hemming 
 stitch. Measure up five-eighths of an iucli, and crease 
 for a tuck. Baste a tuck three-sixteenths of an inch 
 wide, and back stitch on the right side, making the 
 line of stitches just below the basting. 
 
 For the ruffle, measure up five-eighths of an inch 
 from the edge and draw six threads for a hemstitched 
 hem. ^lakc a rolled hem on the two ends of the ruffle, 
 then baste and hemstitch tlie hem. To gather the ruffle, 
 take as manv small runniuii' stitclics on the needle at a 
 
60 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 time ns possible. J )raw the stitelies toiietlier on the 
 needle, :n:(l liold them in ])hiee bv Avindinii' the tliread 
 
 ''- i 
 
 Model XXIII — 
 Rolled and Hemstitched Hems. 
 
 over and niider the eye and ])(»int of the needle. Then 
 hold tlie iialhei-s l)etween the tluimb and hnger of the 
 left hand, and with the other })nll each gather in place. 
 Unwind the tliread, and pull the needle through. Con- 
 tinne in the same manner until the rnffle is gathered. 
 All garments slionld l)e divided into fourths, be- 
 fore ])ntting on the rntHiini'. If the rntHe is also di- 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 61 
 
 vicleJ ill till' snuu' way and tlic divisions placed oppo- 
 site each otluM', the fullness will be evenly divided. 
 
 In bastini;- a rnlHe on a i;arnient, always hold the 
 fullness t(nvards you, then sew on the line of "'athcrs 
 with a half hack-stitch. Turn the seam up, and haste 
 the tuck down over it, then backstitch. 
 
 Ivnffles ])ut on with tie,' tnck are much more serv- 
 iceable and lar.ndry better than those with the finishiug; 
 braid or facinii. 
 
.M(lI>KL XXIV— rilKXCII liEM.S. 
 
MODEL XXIV. 
 ERE^s^CH HEM. 
 
 Object: To learn the method of lieiiiniiiig tabic 
 damask. 
 
 Exercise : Overhanding. 
 
 Materials: Damask 5^ Ly 6 inches; needle No. 0, 
 thread l^o. 80 (white). 
 
 Fold a hem on two adjoining sides of the damask, 
 from one-eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch wide, ac- 
 cording to the qnalitj of the linen. Before begin- 
 ning to hem open ont the hem, and fold the corner to- 
 wards yon, creasing it one-eighth of an inch ontside 
 of the point where the creases of the hems meet. Cut 
 off the corner on the crease, then fold the hem at the 
 right of the bias edge. Then, holding the wrong side 
 tow^ard yon, fold the hem back and crease the material 
 so as to make it even with the hem. Overhand the fold- 
 ed edges together, being carefnl not to take the stitches 
 too deep into the cloth, tlins preventing long stitches 
 on the right side. Turn the hem on the second side 
 and fold nnder the 1)ias edge on the corner and hem it 
 down. Continue in the same way to overhand the re- 
 maining hems on the model. 
 
MODEL XXV. 
 
 MEMS ON WOOI.KX .MATERIALS AND TIIREE- 
 COR^Tp^KED DARK 
 
 Object: To loam l)liii(l liciiiiiiiiii;' iuid the slip 
 stitch hcniiuinii-, and liow to inriid a tear. 
 
 Exercises: 1 Iciiiniiiiii', daniiiii;' and the hiop stitch. 
 
 Materials: Blue Alhati'oss oi- Henrietta 41 hy S 
 inches. Spool silk letter "A" ami spnol twist letter 
 ^'D/' the same shade as the material. JXeedles, Nos. 10 
 and S. 
 
 Fold over the material one I'oui'tli (d' an inch to 
 ihe riiilit side and haste ii down, then told ;i hem one 
 inch with', hastina; not onlv th(> ednc df ihe hem hnt 
 also the l'(dd. To mak(> a hlind hem the stitehes slionld 
 he taken so tliev Would not show. To do this take up 
 one or two threads (d' the mateiaal and hel'oi'e drawinii,' 
 the needle tliron<:li taki' up one-jniirth of an inch in 
 the fold, ('nntinue in this manner, heini^ eai'elnl not- 
 l(. draw the threads liiihtlv. The hem on the opposite 
 end (d' the nio(h'l is the sli]) stileli hem, winch is maile 
 hv tirst folding o\-er the material to the wroni;' side 
 one-eiirhth (d' an inch and haste il down, then turn a 
 hem on<' inch wide, haslini!, it as Inr a hiimi hem; to 
 hem it, take up <ine thread of the idolli then one of the 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 65 
 
 fold a little rartlicr ahead, llicii of tlic clolh, dr. k'ccp 
 the stitches in line with the tliread of th(^ material iii- 
 st(>a(l (tf diagonally. This hem is used on woolen nia- 
 
 iMui.i;i. \,\v - 
 
 KKMS MN Wool. ion MATKItlAI.S AND TlIKIOK Colt.N lOltKTl I)AltN. 
 
 terials where the stitelies arc not In show on the rii^lit 
 side. It is often nsed in hcmmiiiii,' silk or velvet. 
 
 Finish the two sides of the model with the loop 
 stiteh. 
 
66 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 In the center of the model cut an opening one and 
 one-fourth inches each way, brinijino; the two cuts at 
 right angles to each other. 
 
 First draw tlie corners together, tlien holding the 
 edges iirndv run them together (see corner and top of 
 illustration), using the Avai']) (if the same material as 
 that being darned. 
 
 After drawing the edges of the tear together begin 
 at the bottom to darn. Ragged edges should not be trim- 
 med, but weave the stitches over and under so as to 
 fold down each torn thread, being careful not to draw 
 the thread very tight, and thus cause the darn to be- 
 come puckered. When finished press the darn on the 
 wrong side and if it is well done it can scarcely be 
 noticed. 
 
 Great care should be taken to have the needle and 
 thread used for darning proportioned to the thickness 
 of the material to be darned. Always darn on the right 
 side of the material, and if possible use the warp of tlie 
 material beini>' darned. 
 
MODEL XXVI. 
 
 GATHEEING AND GAUGING AND PUTTING 
 ON A BAND. 
 
 Object: To learn the method of gathering, gaug- 
 ing and putting on a band. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming, gathering, gauging, half 
 backstitching and overhanding. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus- 
 lin, cut in three pieces, the large piece being 5^ by 5^ 
 inches and the bands 2| by 1^ inches and 1^ by l;f 
 inches. Needles Nos. 8 and 0; thread No. 90 (white). 
 
 Hem the two long sides of the model with a very 
 narrow hem ; then gather one end. Fold over the ends 
 of the band one-eighth of an inch. Pin the gathered 
 end of the model to the band and draw up the gathering 
 thread so that both will be the same width. Baste and 
 half backstitch the gathers in place ; fold the opposite 
 side of the band down over the gathers, baste and 
 hem it down on the line of stitching. The ends of 
 the band should be overhanded. 
 
 The other end of the model is gauged by making 
 two roAvs of stitches one-eiglith l)y one-eighth of an 
 inch and one-sixteenth of an inch apart, the stitches of 
 the second row beins; exactlv beloAv those of the first. 
 
68 
 
 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 The first row should be one-fourth of an inch from the 
 edo-e. Put in the second row of stitches before draw- 
 
 
 Model XXVI— 
 Gathering and Gauging and Putting on a Band. 
 
 iug Up to fit the baud, which is put on in the same 
 niaunor as for the gathering. 
 
MODEL XXVII 
 
 GUSSETS. 
 
 Object: To learn lio^v to put a gusset in an open- 
 ing. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming and overhanding. 
 
 Materials : Long cloth or any soft bleached mus- 
 lin, cut in three pieces, the large one being 6^ by 6 
 inches, the gussets being 2 by 2 inches, 14- by 1^ 
 inches. 
 
 Fold the large piece lengthwise into three equal 
 parts, cutting the openings on the fold two and one-half 
 inches in length. Hem the openings with hems one- 
 eighth of an inch wide at the top, graduating them 
 so that at the end where the gussets are to be inserted 
 the hems will be as fine as a rolled hem. 
 
 Crease each side of the smaller square one-eighth 
 of an inch and fold so as to form a half square and 
 baste. Beginning at the point, overhand both sides of 
 the gusset in the opening. 
 
 This gusset is used for finishing the under arm 
 seams of night shirts. For the other gusset, crease 
 two adjoining sides of the larger square one-eighth of 
 an inch. Insert the folded corner in the opening, and 
 
70 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 overhand both sides of the gusset halfway up. Fold the 
 gusset over to the wrong side and crease. Hold in 
 place with the needle or a few basting stitches, so that 
 the middle falls over the point of the gTisset, and cut 
 off the point of the square rounding. Turn under the 
 
 MODIOI, XX VI I (iU.SSETS. 
 
 edge and baste to the material, stitching the gusset so 
 that it will fit smoothly. Hem it down. This gusset 
 is used in the drawers placket. 
 
 The ]nodel should be finished with a narrow hem 
 on all four sides. 
 
MODEL XXVIII. 
 SKIKT PLACKETS. 
 
 Object: To learn how to make plackets in skirts. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming and backstitching. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mns- 
 lin, cnt in three pieces, the large one being 5^ by 6 
 inches, and .the placket facing f by 2^ inches, and Ij 
 inches l)y 2^ inches. Xeedle Xo. 0, thread ]N^o. 90. 
 
 For the hemmed placket cnt an opening one-third 
 of the "vvidth of the material from the edge and two and 
 one-fonrth inches in length. 
 
 On the left side make a hem that is one-half of 
 an inch wide. The hem on the other side of the 
 placket shonld be tnrned to the right side of the model, 
 or garment, and shonld be one-eighth of an inch wide. 
 Place the wide hem over the narrow one, and finish at 
 the bottom with two row^s of backstitching, one-eighth 
 of an inch a])art. 
 
 If the narrow hem is tnrned to the right side, the 
 raw edge at the bottom of the placket is avoided. This 
 placket is nsed on cotton garments. 
 
 The remaining placket is made by sewing the one 
 and one-fonrth inch piece to the opening, bringing the 
 seam to the wrong side and folding the piece over and 
 
72 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 hemming it down on the line of stitching, thus making 
 an extension hem for the under portion. For the upper, 
 sew the f by 2^ inch piece to the edoe of the opening. 
 
 Model XXVIII — Skirt Plackets. 
 
 with the seam on the right side, fold Ijaek on the line of 
 stitching, turn under the edges and hem down. 
 
 Finish the placket by hemming the left side under 
 the right. The model should be finished with a narrow 
 hem on all four sides. 
 
MODEL XXIX. 
 
 ^ SLEEVE PLACKET. 
 
 Object: To learn how to put the placket in a 
 shirt or shirt waist sleeve. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming and backstitching. 
 
 X' 
 
 Model XXIX — Sleeve Placket. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mns- 
 lin. Cut in three jueces, the large one being 5^ by 6 
 inches, the other, 1| by 2-J inches. Needle No. 9, thread 
 No. 90. 
 
74 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 Fold the material into two equal parts, and on 
 the fold cut an opening for the sleeve placket. Finish 
 the opening with a narrow extension for the under side. 
 For the upper, stitch the short side of the X piece to 
 the opening Avith the seam on the right side, crease open 
 the seam and fold the piece over so that the pointed 
 part wdll he on the right side of the model or sleeve. 
 Fold under the edges and backstitch it to the material, 
 keeping the line of stitching close to the edge. Finish 
 the placket with two rows of backstitching about one 
 inch below the point, the roAvs being one-sixteenth of an 
 inch apart. 
 
 Finish the model with a narrow hem on all four 
 sides. 
 
MODEL XXX. 
 
 ILITEKED COKNER. 
 
 Object: To learn the method of making a mitered 
 (;orner and decorative stitches. 
 
 Exercises: Catstitched hem, chain stitch, French 
 knots and loop stitch. 
 
 Materials: Gray flannel, 7 by 7 inches. Spool 
 white silk, lio. A, spool 1) twist ( white), l^eedles ]^os. 
 10 and 8. 
 
 Cnt a piece of flannel 7 inches sqnare and fold the 
 opposite corners together, and cnt on the fold, thns 
 making a trne bias of one side. Fold and baste a hem 
 three-fonrths of an inch wide, on the two adjoining- 
 straight sides, mitering the corner. That is, after creas- 
 ing the hems, open them ont and cnt off the corner one- 
 eighth of an inch outside of the point where the creases 
 of the hem meet. Then fold the hems again, baste and 
 catstitch the bias corner and the hem. It is best to 
 catstitch flannel hems, without turning under the edges, 
 thus avoiding the ridge made by the fold. Finish the 
 bias edge with the loop stitch, and chain stitch along 
 the hem on the right side. 
 
 Make a roAV of French knots half an inch above 
 
76 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 the loop stitch. To make them, draw the needle and 
 thread through to the right side of the flannel, and take 
 one short stitch without drawing the needle through. 
 Then taking the two threads at the eye of the needle 
 bring them around from right to left, casting one or 
 
 Model XXX — Miteeed Corner. 
 
 more stitches on the needle according to the size de- 
 sired. Draw the needle through, holding the stitches 
 firmly with the thumb of the left hand. Put the needle 
 hack through the material at the same point at which 
 it was brought up. Several knots can be made without 
 fastening the threads. 
 
MODEL XXXI. 
 
 MATCHING OF STEIPES. 
 
 Object: To teach the matching of stripes. 
 Exercises: Overhanding and overcasting. 
 
 Model XXXI— 
 Matching of Stripes. 
 
 Materials: Blue and white striped gingham. Cnt 
 
78 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 in 5 pieces, two of them being 2 5 by C inches, one 2|- 
 by 2.J inches, the other 2^ by 4| folded and cut on a true 
 bias thns making two pieces. Xeedle ^o. 10; thread 
 (Avhite) 100. 
 
 To match stripes on a bias. Fold over the two 
 bias edges one-fonrth of an inch, baste them together 
 so as to match the stripes and overhand the folded 
 edges. 
 
 To match stripes crosswise. Fold over the straight 
 end of one of the bias pieces, also one end of the 2^ 
 by 2^ pieces and baste the folded edges together, ex- 
 actly matching the stripes. Overhand this seam also. 
 
 To match the stripes lengthwise. Fold over each 
 side of the piece already joined, also one side of each of 
 the 2^ by G inch pieces. Baste one of these to each side 
 of the first piece, exactly matching the stripes and over- 
 hand the seam. Overcast all of the seams and around 
 the edge of the completed model. 
 
MODEL XXXIL 
 
 OVEEHAND PATCH. 
 
 Object: To teach how to set in a patch. 
 Exercises : Overhanding and overcasting. 
 
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 ;M(iL>EL XXXII OVEKHAND PATCH. 
 
 Materials: Bhie and wliite even checked ging- 
 
8U EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 ham, cut in two pieces, 6x6 inches, and 5x5 inches. 
 Needle No. 10 ; thread (white) No. 100. 
 
 For setting in a patch, the patch shonhl be cut 
 one-lialf inch larger than the hole, which should be 
 square or oblong. Cut the corners of the hole diag- 
 onally one-eighth of an inch. Crease one edge of the 
 patch and the side of the hole where it is to be joined. 
 Place the right sides together, having the folded edges 
 even and the checks exactly matched. Baste and over- 
 hand that side of the patch. Remove the basting, 
 crease and overhand the remaining side in the same 
 way. 
 
 Overcast both sides of the seam and also around 
 the edge of the model. 
 
MODEL XXXIII. 
 
 HEMMED PATCH. 
 
 Object: To teach the method of putting on a 
 
 patch. 
 
 imiH 
 
 I ill Pli i 1 1 i I i I *T*I*1 Pi Pil i'^''i '^i r* 
 
 Model XXXIII — Hemmed Patch. 
 
 Exercises: Hemming and overcasting. 
 Materials: Pink and white striped gingham, cut 
 
82 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 iu two pieces Gx6 inches and 5x5 inches. Xeedles 
 No. 10. Thread (white) l^o. 100. 
 
 In making a lieninicd patch, cut the patch one inch 
 larger than the hole. 
 
 The corners shonhl be cnt diagonally one-eighth 
 of an. inch. Place the patch on the wrong side and 
 baste through the center where the two edges lap. 
 Fold nnder the right side one-eighth of an inch and 
 hem. Tnrn under the edge of the patch the same way 
 and hem. Overcast the model all around the sides. 
 
 This patch is nsed where lioth sides of a garment, 
 are to be seen, as a sheet, etc. If there are checks or 
 figures in the material they should exactly match in 
 any of the patclies. 
 
MODEL XXXIV. 
 
 FLANNEL SEAMS. 
 
 Object: To teach how to make scams on flannel 
 and how to finish hems and raw edges on flannel. 
 
 Exercises: Seaming, hemming, overcasting, the 
 catstitch, loop stitch, and the feather stitch. 
 
 Materials: White flannel cut in three pieces, two 
 of them 2^x8 inches, the other 2^x8 inches. Binding 
 ribbon, 8 inch. Needles, Nos. 8 and 10; thread (white 
 silk) A, tw^ist D. 
 
 In making the flannel seams baste the 2;jx8 pieces 
 each side of the 20x8 inch pieces, making the seams 
 three-sixteenths of an inch wide. Sew the seams with 
 the silk thread using a back stitch and two running- 
 stitches. Press the seams open. The Dorothy seam, 
 which is used on flannels for infants, is made bv cover- 
 ing a seam with narrow ribbon or silk tape. Baste it 
 down on each side and hem. 
 
 Finish the other seam with a row of catchstitching 
 through the middle, using the twist. Overcast the 
 edges of the seam wdth the silk thread. Finish around 
 three sides of the model with the loop stitch, turning 
 the corners nicely. On the unfinisbed end turn up an 
 
 o 
 
84 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 inch lieiu to the Avroiic; side, hasting" and catstitching 
 
 Model XXXIV — Flannel Seams. 
 
 it down. Feather stitch across the hem on the right 
 side. 
 
MODEL XXXV. 
 BUTTON HOLES. 
 
 Object: To teach liow to make button holes. 
 
 Exercises: Overhaiiding and bntton-holing. 
 
 Materials: Long cloth or some soft bleached mus- 
 lin, 4^x5 inches. ISTeedles, No. 10 ; thread (white) 
 ^o. 80. 
 
 Fold the muslin lengthwise, so as to make three 
 thicknesses, and overhand the edges together. Turn in 
 the edges, baste and overhand them together. 
 
 In making button holes, always use button hole 
 scissors to cut them. Overhand the edges closely, not 
 taking in any deeper than necessary to hold the threads. 
 
 Model XXXV — Buttonholes. 
 
 Li working a button hole, always begin at the end far- 
 thest from the edge of the material, working from the 
 right towards the left. Insert the needle with the point 
 towards you, drawing it but half way through. Take 
 the two threads at the eye of the needle, and bring them 
 
86 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 around from rig-lit to left, ])assing' under the point of 
 the needle. Draw the needle out so that the thread 
 will he at right angles from the button hole, forming a 
 knot or ]iurl on the edge. In the first position, the 
 needle points towards the worker; in the second, it 
 points in the opposite direction. When the button hole 
 has been worked across one side, work several stitches 
 close together, so that the button hole wnll be rounding at 
 the end. Work across the other side and finish with a 
 bar, wliieli is made by drawing the needle down through 
 the first button hole stitch taken, bringing it up on the 
 opposite side, through the last button hole stitch. Draw 
 the stitch tightly, so as to bring the sides close together. 
 Make four of these stitches, then, In-inging the needle 
 under them, work four I)utton hole stitches on them. 
 Draw the needle down through the cloth close to the 
 puid of the last stitch, and fasten on the wrong side. 
 In working a button hole, if the thread seems too short, 
 pull the needle through the hole, and fasten the thread 
 tightly on the wrong side, close beside the last stitch. 
 Fasten the new thread on the wrong side, bringing the 
 needle up through the last purl. Proceed with the 
 button hole stitch as if a new thread had not been nec- 
 essary. 
 
MODEL XXXVI. 
 
 FASTENINGS. 
 
 Object: To teach how to sew on buttons and 
 hooks and eyes, and hoAv to make h^ops and ej'elets. 
 
 Exercises: Overhaudiiii;' and button-holing*. 
 
 Materials: Albatross or Henrietta, 3^x5 inches; 
 a strip of lining, l4:x44 inches; three luittons, a large 
 and a small one, each with four lioles, and a medium 
 sized one with two holes; two hooks and eyes, No. 1. 
 Needles, Nos. 8 and 10; silk, letter A, twist D. 
 
 Place the lining on the wookui nuiterial, so that 
 one side will come to the center of the piece, and baste 
 
 MuDEL XXXVI — Fastenings. 
 it in place. Fold over the edges ^ of an inch all around 
 and baste them down. Place a hook at the end so that 
 the curve of the neck will be even with the edge and sew 
 it on firmly, taking the stitches over and over through 
 the riuiis and across the shank close to the turn. 
 
88 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 Half an inch from the hook sew on an eye in the 
 same manner, taking the stitches through the rings and 
 across each side of the body of the eye. Fold over the 
 material bringing it up under the hook and even with 
 the opposite side of the cloth. Baste and overhand the 
 two edges together. Hooks and eyes on a garment that 
 are to be covered are sewed on in this way. 
 
 One-half inch from the eye already sewed on, place 
 a^iother hook and button-hole it on. The curve of the 
 neck should be placed even with the edge. The eye is 
 placed one-half inch from the hook and buTr(ni-h(»lod all 
 around, as illustrated. This method of putting on 
 hooks and eyes is used wlien they are to be used on the 
 outside of a garment, or where they will show. 
 
 A loop is used on a garment to take the place of an 
 eye. They are made by taking six stichcs, one-fourth 
 of an inch in length, for a foundation on which the 
 loop stitch should be closely W()rked, the twist or ])url 
 being drawn to the outside edge of the loop. To fasten 
 the thread, l)ring the needle down tlirouiili the material 
 close beside the last stitch and fasten on the wrong side 
 with several stitches over each other. Loojjs arc also 
 often made with the button-hole stitch. 
 
 The eyelet is a I'oniid hole inade in the uiatcrial 
 with a stiletto. Overliaml the hole closely with twist, 
 the stitch being firmly drawn up to strengthen the edge 
 of the hole and keep it well open and in shape. Work 
 the eyelet with the loo]) stitch from left to right. The 
 thread should l)e fastened on the under side the same as 
 in button-hole making. 
 
MODEL XXXVII. 
 
 STOCKINET DAKNIKG. 
 
 Object: To teacb. the method of darning hosiery. 
 
 Materials: Cardboard, S^xSJ inches; stockinet, 
 
 3x3 inches ; darning cotton same shade as the stock- 
 
 MoDEL XXXVII — Stockinet Darning. 
 
 inet; darning needle, No. 7. This model is made the 
 same as the model on page 41, except the warp and 
 Avoof are the same color. 
 
90 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 Baste the stockinet firmly on the cavlhuard to pre- 
 vent its being stretched or drawn ont of shape, and cnt 
 the hole in a line with the stitches. Keniove the cnt 
 loops and rnn a thread aronnd the hole about one-fonrth 
 of an inch from the edge. Form the warp threads, 
 which should be very close together, by bringing the 
 darning cotton up through the loop stitch at one edge 
 and down through the stitch on the opposite edge. All 
 of these stitches should be taken up so that they will 
 not ravel bacdv after the darn is completed, and so that 
 there will be no roughness on the right side of the stock- 
 inet. A small loop of the darning cotton should be 
 left at each end to allow for shrinkage in washing. 
 When the Avarped threads are all in begin at the lower 
 right-hand side of the hole to fill in tlie woof threads, 
 taking U]) the alternate threads of the warp. In the 
 next row only those threads missed in the j^receding one 
 are taken up. The woof threads should be i)ut in as 
 close together as possible. Continue in this same man- 
 ner until the hole is filled. Both the warp and woof 
 threads should be carried at least one-quarter of an inch 
 beyond the hole in the stockinet, so that the dai'ning 
 may be firm and not ])ull away from tlie worn edges of 
 the stockinet. 
 
MODEL XXXVIII. 
 
 DAMASK DAK^TING. 
 
 Ohjccl : To Icai'ii liow to mend table linen. 
 Materials: Ada canvas, r)x5 inches; mercerized 
 floss, olive or Xile green. 
 
 Model XXXVIII — Damask Darninc;. 
 
 Overcast the edges of the canvas, with tlic tliread.-i 
 of the warp. Then count in from the edge twelve holes, 
 jmtting tlu^ ri(M>dlo through each hole. Find the twclftli 
 
92 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 hole from the opposite side and put the needle down 
 throngh it, np through the next and so on to the edge. 
 This will leave long stitches across the center of the 
 square, which should be not too tightly drawn. These 
 stitches represent the warp threads that would be put 
 in the garment to be mended. 
 
 Continue putting in the warp threads until there 
 are only twelve holes left at the side. 
 
 To fill in the woof threads, carry the needle through 
 each hole in the canvas to the warp threads, then take 
 up two threads in the first row, then over two, continu- 
 ing until the row is completed, carrying the threads 
 through each hole in the canvas to the edge, returning 
 in the same manner. 
 
 In the next row there are tw^o threads the same 
 length, one a little longer, and another still longer. In 
 weaving in the second row, take up one of the shortest 
 threads and the one next to the longest ; then over the 
 longest and one of the shortest, continuing in this w^ay 
 until llie darnino- is finished. 
 
MODEL XXXIX. 
 stocki:ntet web darning. 
 
 Object: To teach the weave as in knitting. 
 
 Materials: Cardboard, 3^x3^ inches. Dark red 
 saxony. Dark red knitting- silk or mercerized cotton. 
 Darning needle, ISTo. Y. 
 
 Across the top of the cardboard prick a row of 
 holes half an inch from the edge and one-eighth of an 
 inch apart. On the opposite side of the cardboard 
 make another row of holes, the same distance from the 
 edge, and onc-eightli oi an inch apart. There should 
 be a second row one-eighth of an inch below this one, 
 the holes being opposite the others. To weave in the 
 warp threads, begin at the bottom and bring the silk 
 thread up through the first hole of the second row, and 
 down through the first one in the row of holes at the 
 top. Then up through the second hole at the top and 
 down through the first one in the second row at the 
 bottom, then up through the one next to it, thus nndving 
 two threads in each hole except the first and last ones 
 at the top. Continue weaving in the warp in Ihe same 
 manner until all the holes are filled. 
 
 Put in the first row of loops by bringing the yarn 
 up through the first hole in the bottom row; around 
 
94 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 the first two warp threads and hack down througli the 
 same hok'. Then U]) tlirou,i;li the second hole, around 
 the warji threads and doM-n through the same hole. 
 Coiitiiinc in the same nnmner across the card. After 
 
 Model XXXIX — 
 Stockixkt Wkk Darning. 
 
 makino- the last loop the needle will he on the wrong- 
 side. 'I'o weave in the Avarp threads the saxony shonld 
 ]>(' lironght to the right si(h' of the card. This is done 
 h_v hringing the thread over the side of the card and up 
 tlii'oiigh the first loop. 
 
 Weave in the woof h\- ])ntting the needle aronnd 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 95 
 
 two of the warp threads, down through the loop, up 
 through the next one, and so on across the darning. In 
 turning, bring the needle up through the first loop, then 
 around the first two Avarp threads, down through the 
 loop, and around the two warp threads. Continue in 
 this manner until the darning is finished. 
 
 If this method of darning is carefully followed in 
 mending silk underwear or the knees of children's stock- 
 ings, it will never be noticed where the piece has been 
 filled in. 
 
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. 
 
 (1) When sewing" from which direction should 
 the light come ? 
 
 If possible it should come from the left, so that the 
 work wdll not be shaded by the right hand. 
 
 (2) What is correct position in sewing? 
 
 The pupil should sit straight with the table or 
 desk, and just far enough from it so that she can lean 
 against the back of the chair. 
 
 (3) Should the work ever be pinned to the knee ? 
 'No, because it is injurious for a child to sit in a 
 
 cramped position. The work should be held up in the 
 hands so that the head need not be bent forward too 
 much. 
 
 (4) What articles for sewing should be in a work 
 basket ? 
 
 Shears, pins, needles, tape-line, beeswax, thread, 
 emery, and thimble. 
 
 (5) What is the diiference between shears and 
 scissors ? 
 
 If they are six inches long or over they are shears ; 
 under that size they are scissors. 
 
 (6) Name the diiferent kinds of shears and scis- 
 sors. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 97 
 
 Straight shears and bent shears ; button-hole scis- 
 sors and embroidery scissors. 
 
 (7) What is a tape measure? 
 
 A piece of tape with inches and parts of inches 
 marked on it, and it is used for measuring. 
 
 (8) Into what parts is an inch divided on a tape- 
 line i 
 
 Into halves, quarters, and eighths. 
 
 (9) How many inches in a yard? 
 Thirty-six. 
 
 (10) For what is the emery ball used ? 
 To clean the needle. 
 
 (11) What is a needle? 
 
 A small piece of steel wire, pointed at one end and 
 having an eye at the other to receive the thread. 
 
 (12) How many needles in a paper? 
 Twenty-five. 
 
 (13) How do needles number? 
 
 From 1 to 12, I's being the largest and 12's the 
 finest. 
 
 (14) What are the different kinds of needles? 
 Sharps, ground downs, and betweens. 
 
 (15) W^hy is a thimble used? 
 
 To push the needle through the work easily. 
 
 (16) Of what materials are thimbles made ^ 
 Silver, gold, ahmiinum, and celluloid. 
 
 (17) How long should a needleful of thread be? 
 As long as the arm. 
 
98 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 (18) How should the thread be removed from 
 the S}3ool ? 
 
 It should be cut. Biting it injures the teeth, and 
 breaking it makes the end uneven. 
 
 (19) How is thread numbered? 
 
 The higher the number the finer the thread. 
 
 (20) How is silk thread numbered ? 
 
 It is numbered by letters, 00 being the truest, 
 then O, A, B, C, and D. 
 
 (21) What is thread made from flax called? 
 Linen thread. 
 
 (22) What is thread made from wool called? 
 Yarn. 
 
 (2.3) How man}' pins in a paper? 
 360. 
 
 (24) What is cloth? 
 
 Fabric woven from cotton, wool, linen, or silk. 
 
 (25) How are fabrics woven? 
 
 By placing threads lengthwise in a loom side by 
 side, and then running in another thread crosswise 
 over and under the first ones, from edge to edge and 
 back again. 
 
 (26) What are the lengthwise threads called? 
 'Plic warp. 
 
 (27 ) What are the crosswise threads calle<l ? 
 The woof. 
 
 (28) Which are the stronger, the warp or the 
 woof threads ? 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 99 
 
 The warp threads, because they must bear the 
 strain of having the woof threads woven in. 
 
 (29) What is the selvedge? 
 
 The selvedge is the finished lengthwise edge which 
 is made by the woof threads, as they are woven back 
 and forth. 
 
 (30) Why should materials always be cut through 
 the selvedge and not torn ? 
 
 The warp threads being laid closer together at the 
 selvedge, for strength, the material might be torn down 
 the side. 
 
 (31) What are some of the materials woven from 
 cotton ? 
 
 Muslin, prints, gingham. 
 
 (32) What is wool? 
 
 It is a variety of hair or fleece which is shorn from 
 sheep, the Angora, Alapaca, and Cashmere goats, and 
 furnishes the most important material for clothing in 
 all cold and temperate climates. 
 
 (33) What are some of the materials made of 
 wool? 
 
 Broadcloth, cashmere, serges, and cheviots. 
 
 (34) What ie linen? 
 
 It is a thread or cloth made wholly from the fibre 
 of flax or lint. 
 
 (35) What are some of the linen materials? 
 Linen, lawn, damask. 
 
 (36) What is silk? 
 
 It is a soft, fine thread spun by the silk worm. 
 
 LofC. 
 
100 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 (37) What are some of the silk materials? 
 Gros grain, grenadine, brocade, satin, and snrah. 
 
 (38) How are twilled goods woven? 
 
 Instead of taking nji the threads regularly, as in a 
 plain weave, a certain nnmber of threads are taken np 
 or (lr(i])pe«l at given intervals, tlins forming a twill, as 
 in the damask darning. 
 
 (39) In twilled goods how wonld von determine 
 the right from the wrong side ? 
 
 On the right side the twill runs from left to right. 
 
 (40) Are figures always woven in? 
 
 ISTot always. Usually in cotton materials they 
 are printed. 
 
 (41) Is felt woven ? 
 
 ]^o ; it is made from a fur or wool pulp, which is 
 pressed. 
 
 (42) What are running stitches? 
 
 Running stitches are small basting stitches of 
 equal size. 
 
 (43) When are running stitches used? 
 
 Running stitches are used in seams that do not re- 
 quire gr(>at strength, in gathering, and several rows are 
 used in darning and quilting. 
 
 (44) AVliat is basting, and for what is it used ? 
 
 Basting is sewing with large stitches to hold differ- 
 ent parts of the work together, and it is also used as a 
 guide for the stitching. 
 
 (45) How are basting stitches fastened? 
 
 Ry two small stitches taken in the same place. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 101 
 
 (40) When do we use a fine basting stitch '. 
 
 In a garment that is to he fitted and for h.and work. 
 
 (47) When do we use a crosswise basting? 
 When joining a material to a lining. 
 
 (48) What is a back stitching, and for what is it 
 used % 
 
 Back stitching is a method of sewing by which the 
 stitches are taken backwards, the needle entering the 
 material adjoining the preceding stitch, and coming 
 out so that the stitch on the under side is twice the 
 length of the upper. It is used to make a seam strong 
 and firm and should look like machine stitching. 
 
 (49) How does half back stitching ditfer from 
 back stitching? 
 
 Half back stitching is the same as back stitching, 
 except that the needle is put only half way back, thus 
 leaving a space between the stitches. 
 
 (50) How do overcasting and overhanding dif- 
 fer? 
 
 Overhanding is a method of sewing a seam and 
 the stitches are taken from right to left, Avhile overcast- 
 ing is a method of finishing the edges of a seam and 
 are taken from left to riglit. 
 
 (51) What stitches are worked from left to 
 right ? 
 
 Overcasting, catstitching, and loop stitch. 
 
 (52) What stitches are worked tow^ards you? 
 Feather stitching and chain stitching. 
 
 (53) What is a French seam? 
 
102 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 A French seam is sewed first on the right side, 
 trimmed close to the stitching, the seam turned to the 
 wrong side and stitched again. 
 
 (54) Where is a felled seam nsed ? 
 
 A felled seam is used in a corset coA^er and draw- 
 ers, and is often used in a night gown. 
 
 (55) When is a faced hem nsed? 
 
 A faced hem is nsed where tliere is a cnrved edge 
 and the hem needs to be fitted. 
 
 (56) What is most important in sewing on tape ? 
 ISTeatness and strength. 
 
 (57) Where is a rolled hem nsed? 
 
 A rolled hem is nsed on very fine materials, 
 
 (58) For what is hemstitching nsed? 
 Hemstitching is nsed for ornamenting a hem. 
 
 (59) How shonld the threads be drawn? 
 Always finish drawing one thread before beginning 
 
 another. Six threads being the required number. 
 
 (00) How should the work be prepared for gath- 
 ering ? V 
 
 By marking the middle and the quarters, to make 
 the fullness ex-en when it is sewed on. 
 
 (01) How should you hold your gathers when 
 sewing them o*n a band ? 
 
 They should be held towards you. 
 
 (02) Why is a French hem used for hemming 
 damask instead of the plain hem { 
 
 It is much stronger. 
 
 (63) Where is gauging used? 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 103 
 
 Gauging is used where there is a large amount of 
 fullness required, as in the backs of skirts, 
 
 (64) For what is a gusset intended? 
 To strengthen the end of an opening. 
 
 (65) Wh_Y does the gusset strengthen the open- 
 ing? 
 
 Because the top is a bias fold, which is not easily 
 torn. 
 
 (66) Where are hemmed plackets used? 
 Hemmed plackets are used in the straight backs of 
 
 skirts. 
 
 (67) Why is a mitered corner used ? 
 
 A mitered corner is used in heavy materials to 
 avoid thickness. 
 
 (68) How is a true bias cut? 
 
 A true bias is cut by folding over a corner of the 
 material so that the selvedge or warp threads shall run 
 exactly with the woof threads. The fold will be a true 
 bias. 
 
 (69) Which is the stronger, the overhand or 
 hemmed patch ? 
 
 The hemmed patch is the stronger, because there 
 are two rows of stitching. 
 
 (70) Why is catsti telling used in flannel patch- 
 ing ? 
 
 Because the raw edges should not be turned in, 
 thus avoiding a ridge. 
 
 (71) What should be the length of a botton hole ? 
 
104 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 
 
 A button hole should be iis long a> the button is 
 wide. 
 
 (72) How is a button hole prepared for work- 
 ing ? 
 
 B}^ overhanding the edges. 
 
 (73) At which end do you begin t<:) work the but- 
 ton hole ? 
 
 Commence at the end farthest frrmi the edge of 
 the material working from right to left. 
 
 (74) Whv is a bar used in finishing^ 
 
 To strengthen the button hole and keep it in place. 
 
 (75) In sewing on a button, why is a pin placed 
 across the top of it ? 
 
 So as to lengthen the stitches between the button 
 and the material around whicli the thread is to be 
 wound. 
 
 (76) Why are these threads w*jund :' 
 
 To protect the threads and make a little space U7i- 
 der the button for the button hole. 
 
 (77) What is an eyelet and Avhat is its use? 
 
 An eyelet is a small round hole made and worked 
 in a garment to receive a cord or the shank of a button. 
 
 (78) With what do we make an eyelet? 
 A stiletto. 
 
 (7J*) When is a hook and eye buttondioled 'I 
 When it is used on the outside of a garment. 
 (80) When is a loop used ? 
 
 It is used when space would not admit of using an 
 eve. 
 
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 105 
 
 (81) What thread should be used for darning 
 Avoolen materials '. 
 
 The warp thread which should he used whenever 
 possible. 
 
 (82) How should a tear be prepared for darning'? 
 By first drawing the corners together. 
 
 (83) What stitch is used in finishing the darn? 
 The running stitch. 
 
 (84) What thread should be used in stockinet 
 darning ? 
 
 A thread as near like the material as possible. 
 
 (85) Why do we use the twilled weaving in darn- 
 ing Damask '. 
 
 Because Damask is a twilled weave. 
 
 (86) What thread would be used in darning 
 Damask ? 
 
 Use ra^'clings of table linen. 
 
 (87) Where is the stockinet web stitch used? 
 It is used in mending the knees of children's stock- 
 ings and knit underwear. 
 
 (88) What is the aim in darning? 
 
 The aim in darning a tear is to repair the rent 
 so nicelv that it cannot be perceived. 
 
 (89) What shotild be done after a darn or patch 
 is finished ? 
 
 When a darn or patch is finished, it should be 
 dampened and pressed on the wa-ong side, or a thin 
 damp cloth can be laid on the right side and pressed. 
 
I 
 
UtU li^ 1904