^misii^ii^ig ON THE CULTURE AND GROWTH OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF FLOWER ROOTS, AXD OF ' QREEN HOUSE PLANTS KEPT IN ROOMS, &c^. » TO WHICH IS ADDED, A TABLE OF THE LINNiEAN CLASSES OF BOTANY, WITH THEIR ORDERS AND EXAMPLES. BY JjV. CASEY5___ SEEDSMAN. ^^<<1s^XiijE.- BALTIMORE; Published by the Author, No. 2 Hanover st. Baltimore. PRINTED BY JOHN D. TOT, 1821. BiSTRfGT OF MARYLAND, to wit. BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the thulieth day of 2:********1 I^ecember, in the forty -fifth vear of the Inde- f svAT I pendence of the United States of America, I ^-^^^ I A. D. 1820, J. P. Casey, of the said District, *«**m44* hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit; "A Treatise on the Culture and Growth of different sorts of Flower Roots, and of green house Plants kept in rooms, &c. to which is added, a table of the Linnsean classes of Botany, with their orders and examples." In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United otates, entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learn- ing, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the authors aad proprietors of such copies during the times therem mentioned," and also to the act, entitled, "An act supplementary to an act, entitled, ^ ^ Clerk of the District of Manjland, ADVERTISEMENT The treatise now presented^ prin- cipally to tlie notice of Ladies, is the result of twenty years personal experi- ence, in the culture and management of plants, and is intended chiefly for the instruction of those who keep plants in rooms, and have small flower gardens^ in or near towns or cities. The author flatters himself that it will also be found useful to the public at large; as it con- tains many valuable hints, showing the best method of propagating the different kinds of plants herein treated of. ^t't- TREATISE, &c. Hyacinths grown in the open ground. The bulbs of Hyacinths are subject to a disease, or corruption of the sap which occasions the destruction of so many., that the amateur is disgusted and tempt- ed to abandon, entirely, the cultivation of this flower, from the small hope he enter- tains of evtT seeing his endeavours crown- ed with success. Without giving himself the trouble to examine the probability of his opinion; he takes it for granted the climate of Holland alone is favourable to the culture of Hyacinths. But 1 trust I shall be able to undeceive him by the observations and rules 1 shall lay down; and I beg leave to assure him that if he will impli- citly adhere to the following directions, he can bring them to perfection, not only to equal, but to vie with those raised in Hal* land, both as to strength and beauty— nay, surpass them. The disease incident to Hyacinths I have already observed is a putrefaction of the juices; the occasion of it may be attri- buted to the three following causes: 1 . Want of good compost. 2. Too great moisture, and 3. A want of due perspiratlom Compost or Soil, I SHALi. first lay down a rule for pre- parinia: th<* proper soil or compost, most adapted to Hyacinths; not with an idea of its being the only proper one, and no other. But to give the amateur a rule by which he may make the soil of his garden approach as near as possible to the com- post I am about to describe, in which the Hyacinths thrive best, viz. ^. White river or pit sand. i. Manure made of leaves well rotted* i. Cowdung thoroughly rotted, and i. Old tanners' bark. (The bark must be that which has been used by tanners, and laid in a heap at least one year, that all the heat may be exhausted.) Tht^se materials should be well mixed together, and frequently turned, one year before they are used. Those who have a heavy soil and can- not with case procure such materials as sand and rotted leaves, may supply the deficiency by mixing one-fourth of their soil with one-fourth rotten tan. And those who may want tan, may increase the pro- portion of sand or of rotten leaves, either of these articles may supply the deficiency of the other two. Observe to proportion the quantity of these light materials according to the strength or lightness of your soil. The heavier or stronger it is the less cow manure you must use. 8 Having prepared a spot in your garden after the foregoing manner, you may plant thereon greens^ during the summer, beans in preference, the last serve best to mix and unite the difft rrnt materials, and there- by form a natural soil; it is necessary to be informed, that all composts that are not well mixed, are of little or no use in gar- dening. Moisture or weU Wet or damp being the most destructive incident that can happen to Hyacinths, great care should be taken to protect them from it, by choosing the most elevated spot in your garden — if it is surrounded at a distance with a shallow trench, so much the better. The bed wherein you intend to plant your Hyacinths should be raised seven or eight inches above the level of the garden. Do not imagine that this precaution is useless. The idea in America, and other places, that they have little or nothing to fear from damp, be- 9 cause those countries are more elevated and lie drier than Holland, is an opinion too prevalent, and too much dissemi- nated among amateurs, and which occa- sion a loss to them of many bulbs. In all the treatises which have appeared on the cultivation of Hyacinths, there is no observation, (or at least very superficial ones,) on this important circumstance, damp. Let me undeceive them, damps and mois- tures are more detrimental in those coun- tries than in Holland. The truth is. th^ soil being pn^pared as I have already pointed out, is very light, consequently more dis- posed to absorb, those rains and snows which fall, from November to March, par- ticularly effects these beds; and the paths around them, being more close and com- pact than they are in Holland, the mois- ture cannot be absorbed by them so quick, but remains upon the bed and contributes to render them so wet that they absolute- ly become mud to the depth of eight to twelve inches. 10 The bulbs having at this season push- ed out their roots to the depth of sixteen or twenty inches^ their extremities be- come immersed continually in water, this added to the little perspiration the ve- getable world undergoes during the winter months, causes the roots to putrify, and communicates a disease to the bulbs which totally destroys them, or at least renders the flower poor and small. The bulbs be- come thin, and when taken up they are found shrivelled, and all in scales. To prevent this misfortune as much as possible I would advise amateurs in case of heavy ruins or melting snows, to give a vent to them, by making small descents to drain them or rather to have small trenches made round the beds as I have already mentioned, and to be particularly careful to raise the beds at least seven or eight inches above the common paths. 11 Evaporation. The bulbs of Hyacinths are succulent and full of sap, and for want of due evaporation easily putrify. To prove the bulbs abound with rich juices, take eight or ten roots at the time of taking them up, they will perhaps weigh one pound, three weeks after having lain on the shelves you will find they will only weigh twelve ounces — they evaporated one- fourth part in that space of time. These vapours being condensed either in the room, or in deep drawers, in which they may be laid to dry one upon the other, will have the same pernicious effect as the wet and moisture in the ground would have; when it is not drained off. The place destined for the reception of the bulbs after taking them up, should be very dry. For this reason, greenhouses, which face the south, are preferable to any other place. The wind )ws should be open on all sides, that the air may have a free passage. 13 durini; the first three weeks after the bulbs ^ have been there deposited. After this in- i tervaJ, part of the windows only should \ remain open, except the weatli^r be j cloudy, at which time they ought to be ] closely shut, morning and evening. ! Every precaution should to be taken to ^ prevent the humid vapours arising from the ; bulbs settling on them, which occasions pu- j trefaction; for this reason rooms or gar- > rets which are lined with wainscoat, I or have wooden partitions, or that are built j entirely of wood are prcferrable to walls j of stone, brick, or plaster. It seems that •; stone walls, particularly, attract the humid J and moist vapours, for if the weather t remain cloudy for two or three days j those walls appear covered with mois- \ ture, which scarcely ever happen to those ^ of wood. In the month of Septem- "> ber, the sap in the bulbs begin to \ move, and it then becomes necessary to '^. pay particular attention to them; for at this period they are most subject to putrefaction, by inhaling the vapours .^ 13 which they have evaport^d in the months of July and August, if proper care has not been taken to keep them in dry and airy rooms. This remark will appear to many people absurd and ridiculous, but experience has taught me the truth of it, and the consi- derable losses 1 have sustained, have con- firmed it. Amateurs, who have had experience, to pr?vent putrefaction taking place, examine with attention each bulb before they lay them on the drying shelves, and ri'ject, without exception, all those that are the least decayed or unsound. This caution they renew prior to their being replanted, ta prevent, as much as possible, infection. It is much preferable to place the bulbs on shelves separately, and distinguish the different sorts by placing small slips ot wood with marks on them, than to put them in small deep drawers, whose depth pre- vents, the air from having a free circu- lation through them; you must carefully observe to turn the bulbs from time to 2 .14 time, during the first two or three weeks after having laid thern on the shelves, to facilitate the evaporation, and not lay them on their hase but on their sides, otherwise the moisture accumulates, and attaches itself more easily between the old roots, which to get rid of, is attended with much difficulty, and if it remains it occasions them to perish for want of eva- poration. To be convinced of the necessity of following the rules mentioned, is very easy, by examining the rooms in which you have deposited the bulbs, for the first two or three days. On your entrance into them in the morning after having breri closely shut during the night, you will per- ceive a very strong smell, and if the col- lection is considerable, the room will be quite heated by the exhalations arising fr(»m the bulbs, which go ofi* as soon as the air has a free circulation. As my remarks are entirely designed for the use of amateurs I have dwelt on such observations as 1 deemed most es- 15 sential, and will endeavour to explain, in as few words as possible, what remains to be done. The best season for importing bulbs from Holland are the months of August and September, at that time they have under- gone their proper evaporation, and can best endure carriage. Planting* When the soil of your garden is very dry and elevated, you may plant your bulbs seven or eight inches deep, but if you pre- fer a strong and vigorous flower to a large and well nourished bulb, five or six inches is sufficient. Those who have gar- dens in towns, where a descent is prac- ticable, and where the air is more load- ed with vapours, should plant them only five or six inches deep. Suffice to say, that the deeper your soil permits you to plant them, the whole- somer and stronger will be your bulbs. Id But in no soil wliatcver you oujrht to ex- j ceed eight inches in depth, l^he best sea- son for planting Hyacintlis is from the ' 20th of October to the £Oth of November. i Frost, Sfc. FuosT is detrimental in proportion as it approaches the bulbs, so that the in- tensity thereof ought to be your guide in respect to covering them at this time. From two to four inches of tan laid over them will be sufficient in a common winter. Those who have bulbs of great value, may add planks of wood when the frost is very in- tense. You must take care ilot to cover them too much, especially with leaves. These coverings repulse the vapours which arise from the ground, (although frozen,) and prevents the air from penetrating it, and consequently putrifying the bulbs. A frost which penetrates only three or four inches in depth is preferred to too mild a winter, or to the inconvenience sustained 17 by too much rovering. Those who have col- lections of great value, tie up the flower stalks to small sticks, and put an awning so as to throw a shade over tliem, during the greatest heat of the sun, thereby pre- serving the beauty of the flower, especially those which are of a deep red colour. At the same time tliey are cautious not to extend the awning over the whole bed, and to use it from nine o'clock, in the morning, till six in the evening. Whatever contributes to increase the growth of the stalk and leaves, weakens the bulb and renders it poor and insignifi- cant. Taking them out of ground* The time for taking tliem up, is when the leaves have lost their verdure and begin to wither. If your garden is very much elevated, you may indeed wait till they are entirely dry and the leaves withered, but then you must be certain you have nothing to fear from the humidity of your ground. 2* is The genera* custom with the Dutch flo- rist is to put them in the earth again as soon as they have stripped them of their leaves, who practice the following me- thod. After they take up the bulbs they make the beds quite even, then cutting off the leaves, but not too close, and leaving on the roots, they lay the bulbs on their sides in regular rows, so that they just touch, taking care to lay them in a south as- pect; they cover them with fine earth about one inch deep, which raises them three or four inches above tlie surface of the beds. In this situation they remain three weeks, taking care to renew the mould from time to time, at end of that period they take up tlie bulbs, cleanse them, take off the offsets and place them or their proper shelves. This method is highly useful and very favourable to evaporation, it renders the bulbs very dry and compact, consequently more adapted for carriage; it likewise prevents their be- ing mouldy or decaying. i9 The above method is alone practicable in a soil that is light and dry, and that has been well turned, fWhere the soil is strong deep and moist, it would be very danger- ous to follow this method.) Those who possess the favourable soil mentioned, may take up their bulbs as soon as the leaves begin to grow yellowj on the contrary those who are not so fortunate, must wait till the leaves have entirely lost their verdure and are with- ered. If the rules laid down in this small trea- tise, be implicitly followed and put into prac- tice, I am convinced, that amateurs will find the good effect, and that this flower %vill succeed in any country better than it lifis hitherto done. And he may flatter him- self with some reason, if he pays proper attention, and proceed with perseverance^ that he may bring his Hyacinths to as great perfection as they are in H»*llandj the experiment will without doubt, cost him at first some bulbs, but that is inevi- table. In Holland, where the cultivation 20 of this flower is attended with the most unremitting care and attention.* they have not yet discovered the secret of saving every one. Notwithstanding the expe- rience of many years the Hyacinth still remains a very difficult flower to culti- vate, this difficulty arises in some measure from too great moisture. Hyacinths must not be planted again in the same soil, at least for two or three years, but the ground should be cultivated with other plants during that time, and always mixed the year before planting with some old cowdung, especi- ally when the soil is light or sandy, as the Hyacinths are very fond of such manure. Trials and experience of many years have brought the Dutch to a tolerable degree of knowledge in the culture of this flower; my intention in writing the forego- ing rules is only to give a hint to amateurs, what way they may turn their attention to improve the culture of Hyacinths; many soils may be found in America, with a little additional compost, which may perfectly answer the desired effect. ^1 Hyacinths and JVarcissus for glasses. Hyacinths and Narcissus, for ,^lasses, should be placed on the glasses the latter part of October, or any time in November, Fill the glasses with clear water, so as to be about one-fourth of an inch aboye the bottom of the bulb, whence the fibres pro- ceed: for, if the roots are immersed in w^a- ter more than one-fourth of an inch, it has a tendency to injure the bulbs, and fre- quently causes them to decay before the flowers, appear. With respect to the w^ater, it should be ^ changed constantly twice a week, the best method of doing it is as follows:— Place the fingers over the root, to keep it close to the glass, and pour out the water; then fill it half full, holding the root as before, and sha- king the glass gently, in order to wash both the roots and the glass. This done, pour that out, and fill it witli clear water, whi( h has stood in the room, in a bottle for that purpose, till it has acquired an equal degree of warmth as that which was before in the glass; for I find, that, by pouring cold wa- ter into the glasses, the fibres of the roots are thereby checked, and never do so well as when the water is warm in proportion to the heat of the room. If it be not con- venient to heat tlie water in the room, you may add one point of boiling water to three quarts of cold, which will impart to it a proper degree of heat, and will keep the plants in a growing state, and they will blossom in the greatest perfection. If clear rain water can be procured, it is better than hard water; but which ever, is first used should be continued. When the roots are first placed in the glasses, they should be kept in a cold room where there is no fire, and exposed to the air as much as possible^ (but not to the draft of a door or windaw,) wljen it is not frosty. They should be kept in the cold room till the fibres rearh half way down the glasses, and then they may be removed into a warm room where there is a fire, and placed in a sunny window. If they 23 are far from the light, they are drawn up weak, and appear yellow and sickly. If they are wanted to he placed in any other part of the room, they should be continued at the window till they are in bloom^ and when in bloom, the water should not be changed, but the glasses should be supplied with water as it evaporates with the heat of the room. The roots also imbibe more water, when in bloom, than at any other period, and consequently need more attend- an6>/- If they are then neglected, it weak- ens and checks the plants more than at any other period. When the bloom is faded, take the roots out of the glasses, and plant them in the following manner, viz. make a hole in a dry and airy part of the garden about three inches deep, and fill it with sand, placing the roots in it almost close t<»gether, and cover them with sand about two inches above the crown of the bulb. They are to remain in this situation till p^'rfectly ripe, (at which linv' the green withers and be- comes brown,) then taken up and laid in 34 the shade about a fortnight to dry and harden. When perfectly dry^ clean them from the soil, &c. which adheres to them, put them in bags, and keep them in a dry room. To blow Hyacinths and JYarcissus in Pots.* In the first place, it is necessary to be provided with pots. Such as are about se- ven inches deep, and six over at the top, are the best size: or larger pots will be as well, with regard to the growth of the roots; but the former are the most conve- nient. Next procure some rich mould mix- ed with one-third part of sand. River sand is the best; but if that cannot be pro- cured, such as is washed together by the rain. If the sand found in beds be used, it should be laid in a heap and exposed to the sun and air eight or itn days before being used; it will then be in good order. Let the compost be well mixed and incor- porated together, and sifted through a fine * Hyacinths grown in pots require a different treatment from those grown in the natural ground. 25 sieve, or made fine by any other method. Having the pots and cpmpost ready, begin by placing an oyster-shell, or piece of tile, over the hole at the bottom of the pot, to drain off the water; then fill the pots with the compost, and force the roots into the mould, so as that the crown of the bulb may be even with the surface, and about half an Inch beliw the top or rim of the pot: however, they must not be covered. Plant three roots in a pot, or more if the pots are large. They should be placed about two inches distant every way, and may be planted close to the edge of the pot or not. Put them in the window of a cold room where there is no fire, or in a garden- frame under glasses, just to preserve them from the frost; for the less they are forced, the finer they will be. In about a w eek alter they are planted, if the earth on the top of the pot appear rather dry, give them a little water, but not before. After being once watered, they must be kept moderately moist, and in about a fortnight they will have thrown out fibres S 26 at ^he bottom, about an inch or more in length, when they «may be removed into a warm room, where tbcu'e is a fire kept, and placed in a sunny window; or they may re- main in the room or frame longer if they are not wanted forward. They must be moderately watered every day, when in a warm room: but never let the water stand in the water-pans under the pots, as it stag- nates, and is very pernicious to the tender fibres. If managed in this way, they will generally blow fine in January, or early in February, according to the time they were planted, and the manner in which they were forced. As soon as the bloom is over, they should be turned out of the pots (with the bulb en- tire) and planted in the open ground, where they will increase in size, and ripen. When the leaves are withered and become dry, take them up and dry th^m in the shade for a few days. When thoroughly dry, put them in paper bags, and hang them up in a dry room, first taking off the offsets; then plant them immediately in the bordei's S7 of a sandy soil, and let the. crown of the bulb be two inches under the surface. Keep the blooming roots dry till October or No- yember, when they should be planted in beds by themselves, or in bunches in the borders, and the crown of the bulb should be about four inches below the surface of the bed. They will blow very well in the ground next year, and tolerably well in pots the second year after, but never so well as the first time: it is necessary to have the largest roots every year, for forcing either in glasses or pots. Crocuses and Snow-drops, Should be planted any time from the month of December to January, very thick in the pots, and plunged in the ground, or k< pt in a frame, merely to keep them from frost. They should not be removed to a room till very severe frost sets in; be- cause, if brought into a room too soon, they «8 arc drawn \veak, and run much to green. I find the best way is to take them up in bunches out of the garden, and pot them as soon as they appear above the surface of the ground; and they always blow much finer by this method of treatment. Lilies of the Valley, Should by no means be potted till the flower-buds appear; for, it potted before, it is uncertain whether one quarter of thera will flower. If you have them growing in a garden, they should be frequently exa- mined in tlie spring, as the flower-buds are easily perceived a considerable time before they flower. Take them up carefully with a knife, with as much earth as possible about them, and plant them thick in pots or boxos. They must be kept moderately moist, and they will blow in perfection. When piace3 in a room, the window should never be opened against them, as the draft is pernicious to their welfare. 29 When the window is opened for any consi- derable length of limtf^, the plants should be removed to a distance from it; and when the bloom is over, they should be planted out in the borders, or plunged in the ground in pots, &c. They seldom blow well if pot- ted before the green is up; if potted before, you can see the flower-buds. The best time for doing it is from January to March. They do well in any common garden- mould, as each crown blows but once in three years. Sweet or due Van Thai Tulips^ Should always be potted in the same compost as hyacinths, &c. but they do not require such large pots. They must have the same treatment, and be potted at tlve same time as hyacinths, narcissus, &c. r,* .o 30 Guernsey LilieH^ Should be planted in pots as small as you please: they do best in compost, that is, half sand and half mould, or in sand only. RanunculusseSf Should be jdanted in pots which arc about nine inches deep, and seven inches over. The compost proper for them is a fresh and rather sandy loam, mixed with a little rotten dung, but very little. The mould thrown up in heaps by moles, in a fresh loamy soil, is preferable to any; if of a red color, the better. The Scarlet Turban should be planted in November. Fill the pots with the compost to the brim; then take the root between the finger and thumb, and thrust it into the mould about half an inch below the surface, which is the proper depth at which they should then be plunged in the ground, (for they never do 31 well in pots, if they are not plunged) in a warm sunny situation, to forward tbera; but they must not be put under glasses, as th^^y never flower well if forced, and sometimes^ in that case, not at all. 1 find the best way lo obtain them in perfection in pots is to plant ihera in a warm sunny situation in the natural ground, and defended from very se- vere frost by placing hoops and mats over them; but they must not be covered except the frost is severe, as the covering weakens them if continued long. When it is neces- sary to cover them, these mats should be taken off while the sun shines on them, and covered again when it goes off. Just as the blossom begins to expand, is the best timet to pot them. Take them up with as much earth about them as possible, and plant three or four roots in each pot, placing them in a room or frame, under glass* s; but they must be watered every day, and kept quite wet, (as they thrive in moisture) and they will bloom in the greatest perfection, aufl continue in beauty a long time. 33 The Variegated or Persian Ranuvculus should not be planted till the latter end of February, or the b' ginning of March, If hard frost should set in a few days after the roots are planted, before they have time to vegetate, they should be slightly covered with fern, straw, &c. but must not be con- tinued longer covered than the frost lasts. The roots being wet after they are planted, are in more danger of being hurt by frost before they vegetate than afte r vegetation has actually taken place, when they may be potted and treated exactly in the same man- ner as the Turban. The method of propagating the plants is by parting the roots, and by seed. The method of raising them by seed is as fol- lows: — In the beginning of April provide some boxes, next get some fine rich sandy loam well sifted and broken, and carefully pick out the worms, if it contains any; fill the boxes, and lay a thin stratum of dung about four inches below the surface. Make the surface of the mould as even as possi- ble: strew the seed over it rather thick, on 33 which throw some of the finest mould, enough just barely to cover it; for if it be covered wiore than one-eighth of an inch, it will never vegetate. The boxes should be placed where they will have the influence of the morning sun till about nine o'clock, but not longer; and they should remain in this situation till the green covers the mould, when they may, by degrees, have more sun. However, they must not be placed in a very hot situation, but they must be constantly watered, and never suf- fered to get dry. Kt^ep them always clear from weeds; the best way to destroy which is to cut them off close to the surface with a pair of scissors, when very young, as pull- ing them up disturbs the seeds, and retards their vegetation. Wi»rms being very destructive to the young plants, it is a good method to water the mould with a decoction of the leaves or branches of the walnut-tree, or with salt water before being put into the boxes, and they must be waten d with a pot of clean water after, and moderately dried. When S4 the .e^reen of the plants is dried up, they may be taken up by means of a small three- pronged grain fork, (such as is used at ta- ble,) and carefully separated from stones, &c. dried in the shade, put in paper- bags, and kt^pt dry till March, when they may be planted in the same manner as the large roots, except they should not be planted more than an inch and a quarter deep, which is the proper depth, and they will blow fine the second year. Nature points out the proper depth at which to plant these routs; fi)r if planted too deep or too shal- low, a new root is formed at the proper depth, which considerably weakens the plant. dnemonies, May be planted in October, November, or March, as they are hardier than the Per- sian Ranunculus, and may be potted and managed in the same manner as the Scar- let I urban Ranunculus, only planted rather deeper. The Single Anemonie, or Wind 35 Flower, may be raised in great variety from seed, which should be sown in beds four feet wide, in March, and covered the same depth as the Ranunculus seed, or a little deeper, but not more than an eighth of an inch. A mat should be placed over it, through which it should bo watered till the seed is fairly up, then exposed to the sun by degrees, and kept constantly moist by frequent w^aterings: by these means they will bloom the same season, and you may probably obtain some fine new double flow^ers, which should be marked, and se- parated from the others. The double sorts are increased by parting the roots; for the old roots, when come to their full size^ be* come hollow, and separate naturally. Single and Double JonquilSf Should be planted, whether in the opeu ground or in pots, any time from October to January. The pots for this purpose should be the same size as those used for 36 hyacinths. Plant six or eij^ht roots in a pot in the hyacinth compost, or in any lij2:ht rich garden-mouhl mixed with a little dung. But, in order to have them in per- fection in pots, it is best to take them up in bunches, provided they have been in the ground long enough to be grown so; if they were planted in the autumn, take them up singly: the proper time for doing this is when they first show flower; remove them into a warm room, give them plenty of water, and they will blow very fine. When the bloom is over, they should be turned out of the pots, and planted in the garden, to remain there till the foliage be- comes witliered and dry, when they may be taken up and treated.the same as hyacinths. But it is best to let them remain in the ground three years before taken up, as they will rise in large bunches for potting, and always bloom stronger. 37 White Lilies Are beautiful sweet plants for rooms. If you have them growing in a garden, they may be taken up in large bunches, and planted in large pots, in which they will thrive remarkably well. The best time for taking them up is in January or February. Keep them in a warm room in a sunny win- dow; constantly supply them with water^ and they will blossom very fine. When the bloom is over, they should be turned out of the pots, and planted in the borders again, each root separately, and they will be in good order for forcing the second or third year after. All the different sorts of Martagon or Turn Cap Lilies will do to force equally as well as the White. Any good common garden-mould is proper for potting them in. They are all ^opagated by dividing the offsets from the old roots, and planting them in the borders. 38 Pinks and Carnation^f FoH forcing, should be potted in October. Fine young plants, raised in the summer, are to be preferred. They should be potted in light rich mould, and must be dt f« nded from hard frost and rains^ by placing them in a garden-frame, if convenient,' or other- wise, when there is danger of much rain, lay them down on their sides in a warm situation, as the wet often kills the Car- nation?^. Pinks are hardier than Carna- tions; but if both are kept rather dry, the better during the winter. You may re- move them into a warm room, in January or February, and give them plenty of wa- ter according to the heat of the room. If they are kept in a very warm room, they will require water every day. By attend- ing to these instructions, jou will obtain them in perfection, particularly the Carna- tions, a month or six weeks before those n the open ground. 89 The method of propagating them is hf layers or pipings. By Layers. Carnation^s are generally increased by this method. When the pl< nts are in bloom^ and the young shoots of sufficient length, choose the longest and vStrongest of them, and such as may be bent dovt n to the earth: the others may be piped. Begin by strip- ping or cutting off the Iraves, from the bot- tom of the shoot upwards to the third joint from the heart, when you should be provi- ded with a sharp penknife, and small crooks of wood or fern. Such as may be cut out of an old birch broom answer very well for the purpose. The top of each layer should be cut off to about an inch and a half from the heart; then holding the layer between the finger and thumb, make the in- cision by entering the knife in a sloping idirection about an eighth of an inch below the fourth joint, bringing it through the 40 ini'ldle of the joint, and a quarter of au inch above it. The small piece or tongue that is left below the fourth joint, after the incision is made, should be cut off close to the joint. Then, having some fine rich sandy mould ready, put some round the root, that the layers may be the more easi- ly laid down, without breaking or crack- ing them; after which, fix the layers in the mould with the incision open about half an inch under the surface, and give them a lit- tle water, which should be done every dry day. They generally strike good roots in about six weeks, and are then fit to be taken off, and planted in small pots or bor- ders. The mould for potting them in shr^uld be rich and light; and if any of the layers be accidentally broken off, or if there are any on the plant not low enough to be laid, they may be piped, as many of the sorts grow well by this method. 41 By Pipings. Pinks are generally propagated by this method from their striking so easily, and from its being much less trouble to pipe them. In the first place, dig a hole about two feet in depth and in lengthy and in breadth according to the quantity to be piped. This bed should be in the warmest situation. Fill it with long dung or straw, (the for- mer is the best:) let it be well trodden, and made level with the surface of the garden; or if it be a few inches higher, it will not be the worse. Then get some good mould, mixed with a little rotten dung, which, be- ing well sifted through a fine sieve, lay six or eight inches thick over the bed, making the surface as even as possible: then pull off some of the stronger young shoots from the old roots, such as have about four or five joints. Strip the leaves off carefully to the third or fourth joint, shortening the top of the pipings to about an inch and a 4'K= 42 i quarter from the heart; then cut it off at ^ the fou?*th joint, passin.e: the knife, exactly through the middle of the joint, and it is fi)ifshed, I'hen proceed to plant them as j follows. Cap or other glasses should be provided; small glasses under ten inches in j dia ueter are the best. Water the earth a j little, before you plant the pipings, having marked the exact situation of the glass on I the bed by pressing it on the surface. Take j the pipings one by one, and force them into the earth about half an inch, or rather \ j more, according to the strength of the pip- ^ ing, and about an inch distant from each I other; then give them a little water to set- j tie the earth about them, and place the ! glass close over them. They must be wa- \ tered a little every day, the glasses kept } close, and never shaded from the sun. ' Continue to keep the glasses close over • them for about a month, by which time ^ they will nearly all have taken root. The \ glasses should then be taken off, tin plants exposed to the sun and air, and kept moist by frequent waterings, if the weather be ' 43 dry. In about a fortnight after the glasses are taken off, they should be planted off into beds, about six inches distant from earh other, or they may be planted in beds, to remain to flower, about nine inches dis- tant. Roses. The sorts which answer best for forcing are the Common Province, White Pro- vince or Rose Unique, and the Moss. They all do remarkably well in pots. Jo flower them well in rooms or hot- houses, they should be potted in the au- tumn as soon as the leaves are off. How- ever, they should not be forced till the se- cond year, but they will blow in pots in the gr )und, though not so fine. They must be kept moist during the drought of summer, to make them gro\\ as strcmg as possible, After they have had ^ne summer^s growth in p'»ts, they will he in goo i order for forcing, and may be put into a room in the beginning of January, 44 placed in a sunny window, and well wa- tered. If they are forced in a hot-house, there must be a quantity of young plants potted every year for a succession, as they will not force two years following. The Damask and Maidens-Blush Roses will force, but not so well as the sorts before mentioned. The Rose Demaux and Pom- pone may be planted in pots, and plunged in tlie ground, the same as the other sorts, and may be taken into the room when they shew flower, as they do not force well. Small insects, commonly called the green fly, which appear on the tops of the young shoots and flower-buds, are very destruc- tive to the roses, and, if not destroyed, to- tally spoil the flower-buds, and kill the tops of the young shoots. They may be des- troyed by fumigating them with tobacco. If you are not provided with a fumigating bellows, 1 find it answers quite as well to put the tobacco in a small flower-pot with a fiery coal, and blow it with a common bellows. If the plants are kept in rooms it may be done in any back place, as the 45 smell of the smoke is very disagreeable for some time after in the room. Place the tobacco on the floor^ and the plants all round it, and blow it continually till the tobacco is consumed. The smoke should be confined where the plants are for three or four hours, if possible, and it will entire- ly destroy those insects. All plants kept in rooms should be serv- ed in this manner as soon as any insects appear. Before the plants are taken into the rooms again, about two inches of the mould at the top of the pots should be ta- ken off, and some fresh rich soil put in the place of it; as, by the fumigation, many of the insects fall off on the mould almost life- less, but will sometimes recover and get on the plants again if the earth on the top be not changed. The plants should have a good watering of clear water from a watering-pot with the rose on, all over their heads, in order to wash them, and to take off the smell of the tobacco before being taken into the room. Let this be done on a fine warm dav, as 46 taking the plants out of a room in a cold day, and watering them with cold water, checks them very materially. If the water be just luke-warm, it will be much better, and the plants will not be checked. Where roses art' forced in a hot-house, they should be plunged in the tan, and fumigated every month. 'I here is another insect which infests roses, that cannot be d^^stroyed by fumi- gating, and are easily discovered; for wh^re- ever they are, the Iraf of tlie plant is rurl- ed. They should be picked off and crushed to d'^ath, or in a few days they will destroy every one of the flf»^ver-buds. The af »re-rn4'ntinned R(»ses are all in- creased by layers and suckers from the old roots. Th«» young shoots should be laid in summer, and t;ut in the same manner as carnations, or twisted, and laid and forked down about three inches deep. They will be w^'ll rooted by the autumn, and may then be taken off and potted or planted in beds. The surkors should be carefully tak n off with a spade from the old roots in autumn, 47 Stnd treated in the same manner as the lajt-rs. The China or Monthly Rose is a line plant for a room, on account of its bloom- ing the greater part of the winter, Thest should be fresh potted in the autumn in large pots, according to the size of the plants; and the mould should be very rich and light. Ihey must be removed into rooms when the frost c«)mes on. No plant requires more fumigating than this. They thrive remarkably well if planted under a south wall, and nailed up; they grow to a great height, and make a beautiful appear- ance during the principal part of the sum- mer, and latH in autumn. These plants are propagated by cuttings. Any part of the young branches in spring or summer being taken off at the joint and planted in pots or in the ground, and co- vered with a glass, readily strike root, and may be potted as soon as they are struck, or planted in a border. 4« On Tuberoses. The Double and Single Tuberoses are beautiful sweet-scented plants^ and may be brought to perfection with very little trou- ble. They should be planted in April or May. Provide some fine, light, rich com- jiost, and middle sized pots, planting one root in the centre of each pot. Many peo- ple divest them of the offsets, which is a bad practice: for* instead of strengthening the roots, it weakens them. The crown of the root must be .only just covered with mouldy and if not covered at all, the plant will not be the worse for it. This beautiful plant always thrives bet- ter, and blossoms earlier, if indulged with a hot-bed. For those who force cucumbers or melons, and have but a few roots, it will be a good plan to plunge the pots to the rims at the back or sides of the bed, to for- ward them; but if you have a large quan- tity of roots, they should have a slight hot- bed made for them, and they well deserve 49 it. A bed made for a one-light frame will contain a great qviantity of plants; if it be two feet and a half in height, it will b^- vsuf- ficient At this season, about six inches of old tan, fine mould or sawdust, must be placed on the bed, to plunge the pots in, which may be put as close together as pos- sible, or so as to fill the bed. They will require a little water two or three days after being planted, but it must be used very sparingly till the foliage on the top is grown two inches in length, then they must be kept moderately moist. 4ir should be admitted every day, if the weather be at all favorable, by letting up the light at the back of the frame, or pushing it down a little; but this light must be kept close every night. When the flower-stalks appj^ar, the plants should have more air, by drawing thi light half off, or yen may take it en- tirely off in fine weather, while the sun shines on th< m: if the frame be shallow, the flower-stalks will reach the glass h( fore they !dow. When this happens to be tho case, the frame may be raised, by placing a 5 50 brick or stone at each corner of the frame, laying boards or straw round the top of the bed to keep the mould up, and to pre- vent the air from being drawn in, which would prove injurious. When the plants are in bloom, th^y may be removed where wanted, either to adorn the warm conspi- cuous part of the garden, or the apart- ments of the house, still keeping them well supplied with water, as they will require more when not plunged. These flowers may be grown equally successful in hot-houses, plunged in the bark-bed, or kept in front of the house on the flue, but the former method is to be preferred: or they may be blown in perfec- tion in a room or green-house, potted ex- actly the same as for hot-beds; but they will require more water, and, if planted at the same time, will succeed, and be in their beauty when the others are gone. Those grown in beds or hot-houses may be re- moved to any warm sunny apartment of the house when the flower-stems are about six inches in length, which will keep them 5i back; and by these means you will have a succession, which is very desirable. The windows may be opened, without detriment to the plants, in fine weather; in fact, it is necessary to give them air frequently, as it strengthens the bloom. The pots should always be removed a little distance from the window, out of the draft, when it is opened, or it will certainly destroy them. These plants are increased by offsets, which may be taken off after the plants have done flowering and the green is dried. These must be buried in dry sand in win- ter, and planted in the natural ground in a warm situation at the beginning of April. ^ 52 Violets. To have the different sorts of Double Violets in porfertion, they .should be potted in the summer in middh -sized pots, or planted in boxes. The pots may be plung- ed in the ground in a shaded situation dur- ing the summer. The boxes should like- wise be kept in the same situation. They should be re-plunged in a sunny situation in the autumn, to remain there to blow; for they do not blossom well, if taken into rooms before the blossom appears. They bear planting very well, and may be taken up out of the ground and potted when in full bloom, if it be more convenient; but they do not remain so long in bloom. The JVeapolitan ViokU which is far supe- rior to any other for its beautiful scent and long continuance in bloom, answers re- markably well if planted on an old cucum- ber bed. The plants must be about six inclies distant from each other; if leaf- mould can be easily procured to plant them in, it is to 93 be preferred to any other.* The flowers of this violet being so uncommonly sweet, the insects are particularly fond of themj and, if not attended to, they will destroy every one of them. I find the best way to counteract this is to place slices of car- rot or turnip round the pots, boxes, &c. as they will eat those in preference to any thinj? else, and conceal themselves under them during the day. Thus, by turning over these pieces every morning, they may be discovered and consequently destroyed. Violets are easily propagated by divid- ing the roots in autumn or spring. Persian Iris. The Persian Iris is a beautiful flower, and will blow on glavsses, like the hyacinth, narcissus, &c. but they will blow much stronger in small pots of sand, or sandy * What is here called leaf-mould is a compost made from leaves raked up in the autumn^ and laid in a heap till per- fectly rotten. 5* 54 1oam# putting three plants in each pot. They are managed in a way exactly si* milar to the hyacinth. A few pots or glasses of these plants will scent a large apartment. They succeed very well in the natural ground, in a dry situation, and sandy soil. They are propagated by dividing the off- sets from the old roots. Mignonnette^ Should be sown thick in pots, or boxes,^ at any time of the year, and transplanted when in rough leaf, either into pots filled with light rich mould, (four plants to a pot,) or in boxes, (the plants to be two inches apart) in the same kind of compost. It must be kept in a sunny window, dur- ing the winter, and constantly supplied with water, keeping it moderately moist. In the summer it may be kept outside of the window. ON (GREENHOUSE PLANTS, The Verbena Trifoliata^ or Sweet Vervain, Is a beautiful plant for rooms, particu- larly in the summer. However, it loses its leaves generally about December, when many people throw it away, thinking it is dead; but if it be cut bark rather short, and shifted into a larger pot, in good rich mould, as soon as the leaves fall off, it will break ag an immediately, form a fine green plant, and retain its leaves after till next winter. This plant will live in the open ground; but the root should be covered with muck, saw^dust, ashes, or any thing most con- venient, to keep the frost a little from the root. If the frost kill it to the ground, 56 which it generally does, unless in a very warm situation, it may be cut off close to the ground in April, when it will soon break, and grow very strong. It is very easily raised from the slips or cuttings of the young wood in the summer. Plant them in a large pot; plunge the pot to the rim in a hot situation, and place a glass over them, making it air-proof. Give them water every morning, and they will strike root in about three weeks or a month, when they may be put singly into small pots.^ The Fiishia Coccineaf Is a very handsome plant, and blossoms very fine if managed in the following man- ner: — It requires a large sized pot, and should be potted in strong rich mould. It also requires a good deal of water, and always thrives best if plunged in rather a shady * Glasses for this purpose may be had at my store. 57 situation during the summer. If kopt in a room or a garden, and not plungfd, they are not of so good a colour; and unless kept in very large pots, they lose their lower leavf^s. They generally lose their leaves in the winter, and must then have bur very little water. They are propa- gated by planting the cuttings in the sum- mer, in the same manner as the verbena, or by seed, which must be sown in April, in pots filled with light mould, and kept con- stantly moist, by which means they will blow in autumn* The Cobcea Scandens, Is a most beautiful flowering creeper, fit to ornament a flf)wer-stand, back of a gn^en-house, &c. They do remarkably well to run up a column or tree, or if planted against a wall. They thrive in almost any situation where they have plenty of light and air, even in a northern aspect, where many hardy creepers will not thrive. 58 If wanted to grow in the air during the summer, (as they are killed by the first hard frost) they may be planted out in April or May where wanted; give plenty of water, and defend them from frost* About tiie month of June, if the weather be at all warm, they will grow very rapid- ly — six inches a day, or more, and will co- ver an arbour in a very short time, if they are against a tree, they will climb of their own accord, and never require any nailing or tying; but if grown against a wall, they must be constantly nailed. They are easily propagated by seed, which they bear plentifully in a green- house, or in a sunny situation in the open ground; or by cuttings, which should be planted in pots of light rich monld any time during the summer, and the pots plunged in the ground in a warm situa^^ tion; or in bark-beds, placing glasses over them, which should be kept close, and well watered; by which means they strike root in aboutsix weeks, when they may be plac- ed in small pots, and plunged in the ground, 59 in a warm situation, and will be fit for planting out in a month. Being a green-house plant, it is necessary to raise a fresh supply of young plants every year, either by cuttings raised at the latter end of the summer, or by seed sown in the spring about March or April. If it be raised in a room, it must be kept warm, and the window never opened against it. It may also be kept in a cucumber-bed or hot-house, where convenient, and they will flower much sooner. The Heliotropium Peruvianiim, or Peruvian Hdiotropej Is a beautiful sweet-scented plant for the different apartments of a house. Few plants require more water. It is very impatient of frost, and may be plunged in tife ground, in a warrn situation, about July, when the weather becomes settled. It is easily pro- pagated, both by cuttings and by seed* 60 First, By Cuttings.— Pvnvide some very light mould, and plant the cuttings, which should be young shoots, in large pots, in the early part of the summer, plunging the pots to the rims in a very warm situation. Keep the glasses close over them every morning when the weather is hot and dryj but the plants must never be suffered to get dry. They strike good root in a m »nth, and are then fit for planting in small pf)ts. The glasses should never be shaded from the sun, provided they are air-proof. The reason why the cuttings are recom- mended to be planted in pots, is, because the worms often draw every plant out, if they are planted in the earth. But when they are planted in pots, this may be pre- vented by placing a piece of tile close over the hole at the bottom of Uie pot, and se- veral small pieces round it, to draw off the water. The mould should be carefully ex- amined before the pots are filled, and if it contain any worms, they must be picked out. 6i By Seed. — The seed should be sown iu pots of rich mould, and kept in the hot- house, or plunged in a dung or bark-bed. They should be planted off into small pois when about three inches high, and will blow in the autumn. When the plants are plung- ed in the ground in summer, they may be taken into rooms while in flower* The Camellia Japonica, or Japan Rose. Is a beautiful well-known plant, and may be kept in the room, green-house, or hot- house. There are many varieties; but the most common ones are thi Single and Dou« ble Red, D mble White, and the Double Striped. They require rather large pots, not liking to be too much confin*^^ d at the root. Fine sandy loam, mix^d with a lit* tie black, sandy, or boggy mould, and a very small proportion of light rotten dung, or leaf-mould, well mixed together and sifted, is a proper compost to pot them in. 6S > They should be shifted every year in the beginning or middle of the summer. Tliis is a hardy green-house plant, and, when kept in rooms, should have as much air admitted to tht-m as possible, and have a good washing all over the heads of the pi mts once a month at least with clear wa- ter, by means of a watering-pot with the fose on. If the plants are very dusty, it will be necessary to use a piece of sponge, or any soft substance, to wash each leaf singly, bolding the. leaf in the palm of the hand, with the under side of the leaf down- wards; and afterwards give them a wash- ing with the watering-pot of water, as no- thing disfigures this plant so much as dust. They are propagated by seed, layers, cuttings, and inarching. The double sorts are generally propagated Uy inarching them on the single, and sometimes raised by lay« ers. The single answer b«st, and make the finest plants, when raised from seed imported from China, and sown early in spring in middle-s;ze(5 six stamina, and comprehends five orders. The orders ar^, 1. Hexandria Monogynia — six stami- na and oni* style. Amaryllis Lutea. 2. Hbxa%dria Digynia — ^six stamina and two styles. Oriza Sativa. 77 3. Hexandkia Trigynia — six stamina and three styles. Rumex Crispus. 4. Hexandria Hexagitnia — six stami- na and four styles. Damosonium, Indicum 5. Hexandria Polygyna — six stamina and many styles. Alisma Plantago. Seventh Class. Heptandria, of seveUf ^c. consisting of plants with hermaphrodite flo\\ers, hav- ing seven stamina, and furnishes four or- ders. The orders are, 1. Heptandria Monogyni4 — seven sta- mina and one style. Esculus, Pavia. 2. Heptandria Digynia — seven sta- mina and twostylis. Limeum, Africanum. S. Heptandria Tetragynia — seven stamina and four styles. Saururus Luri- dus. 4. Heptandria Heptagynia — seven stamina and seven styles. Septis Capen- sis. r* M 78 Eighth Class, OcTlNBHixi, of eight and a man^ eight male organs, plants with hermaphroditic flowers, having eight stamina, or male or- gans, and comprehends four orders. The orders are^ 1* OcTANDRiA MoNOGYNiA — eight sta- mina and one style. Fushia, Coccinea. 2. OcTANDRiA DiGYifiA-— eight stamina and two styles. Galinea Africana. 3. OcTANDRiA Trigynia — eight stami- na and three styles. Polygonum fagopy- rum. 4. OCTANDRIA Tetragynia— eight stamina and four styles. Paris quadri- folia. JS*inth Class* Enneandria, of nine, <^c. comprehends plants with hermaphrodite flowers, having nine stamina, and consists of three or« ders. The orders are, 1. Enneandria Monogynia — nine sta- mina and one style. Laurus Sassafras. 79 2. Enneandria Trigtnia — nine sta- mina and three styles. Rheum Palmatum. 3. Ennbandria Hexagynia — nine sta- mina and six styles. Butomus umbellatus. Tenth Class. Decandria, of ten and a man^ ten male organs, plants with hermaphrodite flowers, having ten stamina, or male organs, and it consists of five orders. These orders are, 1. Decandria Monogtnia — ten stami- na and one style. Cassia Marilandica. £. Decandria Digynia — ten stamina and two styles. Hydrangea, Hortensis. 3. Decandria Trigynia, ten stamina and three styles. Cucubalus Stillatus. 4. Decandria Pentagynia — ten sta- mina and five styles. Sedum Ternatum. 5. Decandria Dh.cagynia — ten stami- na and ten styles. Phytolacca decandria. Eleventh Class* DoDBCANDRiA, of twelve and a man, twelve male organs, comprises plants with 80 hermaphrodite flowers, having twelve or more stamina, or male organs, and consists of SIX orders. Tiie orders are, 1. DoDKCANimiA MoNOGYNiA — twclve or more stamina and one style. Hudso- nea Ericoides. 2. DoDECANDRiA DiGYNiA — twelve or more stamina and two styles. Agrimonica Parvi flora. 3. DODECANDRIA TriGYNIA — tWClvC or more stamina and three styles. Reseda Odorata. 4. DoDECANDRiA Tetragynia — twelve or more stamina and five styles. Calli- gonum Pallasia. 5. DoDECANDRIA PllVTAGYNIA — twelvC or more stamina and eight styles. Glinus Lotoides. 6. DodecandriaDodecagynia — twelve or more stamina and twelve styles. Sem- pervivum, Hirtum. Bi Twelfth Class. IcosANDRiA, i){ twenty and a man^ or hus- band^ twenty male organs^ consists of plants with hermaphrodite flowers, having about twenty or more stamina, or uale organs, that are ins^Tted either into the inner side of the calix, or to the corolla; by this last circumstance is the class in question distin- guished from that immediately following, Polyandri&f which have also frequently about twenty stamina, but they are insert- ed into the receptacle This class, Icosan- dria^ is also distinguishable by having a mo- nophyllous, hollow, or cone ave calix, and to the inner side of which the petals are fastened by their claws; and there are five orders. The orders arc, 1. IcosANDRiA MoNOGYKriA — twenty or more stamina and one style. Cactus, pen- tagonus, 2. IcosANDRiA DiGYNiA — twenty or more stamina and two styles. Cratsegus coccinea. 82 3. ICOSAISTDHIA T|^IGYNIA — twCtlty or more stamina and three styles. Sorbus Ancuparia. 4. IcosajvdriaPentagynia — twenty or more stamina and five styles. Mespilus, Ovalis. 5. IcosANDRiA PoLYGYNiA — twenty or more stamina and many styles. Rosa, Lu- tea. Thirteenth Class. PoLYANDRiA, of mamj and a man^ or hits- hand^ many male organs^ plants with her- maphroditc flovvers, having many stamina, or mal<* organs, which in this class are in- serted into tfie receptacle, and which dis- tini::Mish(S it from that immediately preced- ing, Icosandriaf where the stamina are also nunierous, but are attached to the inner part '>f the calix, &c. therefore all plants having mor*^ than twelve stamina inserted in the receptaculum are of this class, Poly* andria^ and consists of seven orders. The orders are, 1. PoLYANDRiA MoNOGYNiA — many sta- mina and one style. Cistus Viilosus. 83 £. PoLYANDKiA DiGYNiA — many stami- na and two styles. Pseony Humilis. 3. PoLYANDRiA Trtgynia — many sta- mina and three styles. Delphinum Ajaris. 4. PoLYANDRiA Tbtragyjvia — many stamina and four styles, Cimicifuga Pal- mata. 5. PoxYANDRTA Pentagynia — many stamina and five styles. Aquilegia Cana- densis. 6. PoLYANDRiA Hexagynia — many sta- mina and six styles. Stratiotes Aloides. 7. PoLYANDRiA PoLVGYNiA — many sta- mina and numerous styles. Magnolia, Cor- data. Fourteenth Class. DiDYNAMiA, of twice^ and power, two powers, comprehends plants with herma- phrodite flowtrs, having two long and two short stamina: in1:his circumstance of the stamina, long and short, consists the main difference betwoon the (lass in question, and that of the fourth, which have also f'Hir stamina^ but which are of equal lengthy 84 therefore all plants having four stamina that are of unequalflength, two of them long, and two short, are didynamous, !• e. of the class Didynamia^ of which there are but two families or ord^TS, and are founded upon the absence and presence of the peri- carpiunif or seed-vessel. 1 he orders are, 1. DiOYNAMlA GyMNOSPERMIA — tWO long and two short stamina, and naked seeds (^gymnospermiaj lodged in the calix. Lavendula spica. 2. DiDYNAMIA AnGIOSPERMIA — ^^tWO long and two short stamina, and covered seeds fangiostpermiaj lodged in a proper pericarpium, or seed-vessel. Digitalis pur- purea* Fifteenth Class* Tetradynamia, of four and power^four powerSf plants with hermaphrodite flowers, having four long and two short stamina, and consists of two orders, founded on the pericarpium; such as have a short round pod, (^sUiculosaJ as honesty and candy tuft. 85 «nd such as have a long pod fsiliquosafj as stock-gilliflower, &c. The orders are, 1. Tetrad YNAMiA Sii.iciti.os a — four long and two short stamina, and short round pods. Iberis, odorata. £. Tetrad AN AMiA SiiKtuosA — four long and two shr»rt stamina, and long seed-pods. Brassica Rapa. Sixteenth Class. MoNADELPHiA, of aloiie^ and a brother- hood, one brotherhood^ hermaphrodite flow- ers, having all the stamina united below into one body, forming a column, through which pass^^s the stylp; and the orders are seven, founded on the number of united stamina. The orders are, 1. MoxADELPHiA Triandria — three monadelphious stamina. Ferraria, undu- lata. 2. MONADELPHIA PeNTANDRI A— flVe monadelphious stamina. Passiflora, macu- lata. 86 3. MoNADEXPHiA Heptandria — seven monadelphious stamina. All the Palergo- nunis. 4. MoiTADEtPHIAOCTANDRIA — eight mo- nadelphious stamina. Aitonia Capensis. 5. Monad elphiaDecandria — ten mo- tiadelphious stamina. GeraniumMaculatum. 6. MonadejlphiaDodecandria — twelve or more monadelphious stamina. Monso- nia, speciosa. 7. Monadelphia Poxyandria — nnmer- ous monadelphious stamina. Hibiscus, Pa- lustris. Seventeenth Class. DiADELPHiA, of twice and a brotherhood, two brotherhoods in the samejloxver, herma^ phrodite flowers, having two sets or co- lumns of united stamina, i. e. united below into two different bodies; the flowers are all papilionaceous, and have apparently ten stamina, but which are only two, one of which splits longitudinally from the middle upward, and terminates in about nine parts,^ appearing like so many distinct filaments; 87 and the other stamina is simple or undi- vided, and lies closely along the fissure of the divided filament, which have g* nerally as many antherse as divisions, and the sim- ple stamina have but one antherse; and from the number of antherse in both fila- ments is founded the orders, which are four. The orders are, 1. DiADELPuiA Pbntandrta — diadelph- ous stamina, having five antherse. 2. DiADELPHiA HfcXANDRiA — diadelph- ous stamina with six antherse. Fumaria Solida. 3. DiADELPaiA OcTANDUiA — diadelph- ous stamina with eight antherse. Polyga- lia Amara. 4. DiADELPHiA Dbcandkia — diadelph- ous stamina with ten antherse. Lupinus Perennis. Eighteenth Class. PoLYA DELPHI A, of many brotherhoods, many brotherhoods^ or unions of stamina, in 88 the same flower 9 hermaphrodite flowers that have each many sets of united stamina^ i. e. united by their filaments into several dis- tin( t bodies, and consists of four orders, derived from the number of stamina or an- therse, appearin,s; in each flower. The orders are, 1. PoLYAOELPHiA Decandria — ten po- lyadelphious stamina in each set. Theo- broma, cacao. £. POLYADELPHIA DoDECANDRIA tWeJ VC or more polyadeiphious stamina in each set. Abroma augusta. 3. PoJLYABEIiPIIlA ICOSANDRIA twentj polyad«^lphious Stamina. Vielaieuca, lanata. 4. PoLYADELPHIA PojL¥A.\DRlA many polyadeiphious stamina. Hypericum ma- cula turn. *J\ineteenth Class. Syngenesia, of together and generation, plants with compound flowers, having all the antherse, or gen*^rative male organs, united into onecylindric body, and through 89 which the style, or generative female or- gan, rises, uniting in the same manner. This class contains the numerous tribe of compound flowers, and the orders, or secondary divisions, arise from the differ- ent modes of intercommunication, or poly- gamia of the florets that compose each flower; such as, the florets all hermaphro- dites—hermaphrodites . and females— her- maphrodites of no sex or neuter — males and females — the florets in distinct cups within the main one — simple floretsj this class is divided into five orders. The orders are, 1. SyngenesiaPolygamia^q,uai.is — equal polygamia, or the florets all herma- phrodites. Lactuca, Sativa. 2. SyNGENESIA PoiiYGAMIA SUPEKFLUA — ^superfluous polygamia, or the florets of the disk all hermaphrodites, and the cir- cumference or radius all females, which latter are said to be superfluous or useless, because the impregnation of them is unne- cessary, the fructification being completed in the hermaphrodites in the centre. Ta- nacetum. Vulgar e. 8* 90 3. STNGBNTESIA POIYGAMIA FUTJSTA^ NBA — frustrated polygamia, L e. the florets in the radius are neuter, or of no sex, be- ing devoid both of stamina and style, so are ineflectual to the fructification, as in the case of sun-flower, &c. in which the fructification is perfected only, in the her- maphrodites, in the disk. Helianthuis an* num. 4. Syngenesia Polygamia Necessa- RiA — necessary polygamia, or being male and female florets, and no liermaphrodites, the presence of the male and females is ne- cessary for perfecting the fructificationr Baltimora recta. 5. Syngenesia Polygamia Segregata — separated polygamia, the florets of each flower separated from each other by means, of partial cups, containing one or more florets, and stand within the general calix, as in globe-thistle and elephant's foot* Echinops, ritro. 91 Twentieth Class. Gt^tandria, of a woman and a man, plants haviniEf the stamina or male organs placed either upon the style or female or- gan, or the common receptacle el >ngated in the form of a style, supportin,fij both the pistillum and stamina; and is divided into three orders, founded each on the number of stamina in each flower. The orders are, !• Gynandria Diandria — twogynand- rous stamina in each flower. Orchis, cilia- ris. 2. Gyi^andria Hex and ri a — six gy- nandrous stamina in each flower, Aristo- lochia, sippo. S. Gtnandria PoiiYANDRTA — many gy- nandrous stamina in each flower. Arum Virginicum. Twenty-first Class. MoNOECiA, of alone and a housCf plants with male and female flowers apart, or alone, in separate cups; that is, within dif- ferent cups on the same plants as in the cu- 92 cumber^ &c. and is divided into ten orders, arising from the number, union, and situa* tion of the stamina of the male flowers. All monoecious plants are also termed androgynous, from the same circumstances of male and female flowers on difierent parts of the same plant. The orders are, !• MoNOECiA. MoNANDRiA — monoccious plants with one stamina. Chara, Flexilis. 2. MoNOECiA DiANDRiA — monoccious plants with two stamina. Lemna, Minor. 3. MoNOECiA Triandria — monoecious plants with three stamina. Zea Mays. 4. MoNOECiA Tetrandria — monoeci- ous plants with four stamina. Morus Alba* 5. MoNOECiA Pentandria — monoecious plants with five stamina. Ambrosia Elatior* 6. MoxoECiA Hexandria — monoecious plants with six stamina. Zizania Aquatica* 7. MoNOECiA PoLYANDRiA— monoecious plants with numerous stamina. Quercus. 8. MoNOECIA MONADELPHIA — moUOC- cious plants with monadelphous or united stamina, i. e. all the stamina united below into one cylindric body. Pinus Inops. m 9. Moi9^oEiciA Syngenesia— monoeci- ous plants with synganesious antherse; that is, with all the antherse, or tops of the sta- mina, united into a cylinder, as m the cu- cumber, gourd, bryony, &c. See class Syn- genesia. Gourd, Cucumber, &c. 10. MoNOECiA Gyivandria — monoeci- ous plants with gynandrous stamina; i. e. the filaments situated upon a sort of imper- fect style. See the class Gynandria, An- drachne Telephioides. Twenty-second Class. DioECiA, of twice and an habitation, two habitationSi male and female flowers on two separate plants; that is, all the plants of this. class are either male or female, not hermaphrodite, as in the greater number of classes; nor with male and female on the same plant, as in the immediately preced- ing class, Morioecia^ but male and female flowers on distinct plants, as in the genus cliffortia, conaria, carica, moonseed, spi- nacli, bop, and many others; and the fe- male plants only produce seeds, which, 94 however, require the vicinity of a male plant, or the aspersion of the male dust to impregnate the female flowers, or at least to render the seeds fertile; and from the seeds of the females, both male and female plants are produced. This class is divided into thirteen orders, and are founded upon the number, union, and situation of the stamina of the male plants. The orders are, 1. DioECiA MoNAXDRiA — dioeeious male plants with one stamina. Pandanus Spiralis. 2. DioEciA DiAXDRA — dioecious male plants with two stamina. Salix Rubra. 3. DioeciaTriandria — dioecious male plants with three stamina. Empetrum Al- bum. *. DioECiA Tetrandria — dioecious male plants with four stamina. Viscum Album. 5. DioECiA Pbntrandia — dioecious male plants with five stamina. Cannabis Sativa. ■^ 95 6. DioEciA Hexandria — dioecious male plants with six stamina. Smilax As- pera, 7. DioEciA OcTANDRiA — dioecious male plants with eight stamina. Populus Alba. 8. DioEciA Enneandria— dioecious male plants with nine stamina. Mercuria- lis Annua. 9. DioECiA Decandria-— dioecious male plants with ten stamina. Carica Papaya. 10. DioECiA DoDECANDRiA — dioecious plants with twelve stamina. Minespermum. Virginicum. 11. DioECiA PoLYANDRiA — dioecious male plants with numerous stamina. Cy- cas, Revoluta. 12. DioEciA MoNADEiiPHiA — dioecious male plants with monadoiphious or united stamina, being united by their filaments i«jto a pillar or column. Juniperus. 13. DioECiA Gynandria — dioecious male plants with gynandrous stamina, or that are situated on a kind of style. See the class Gynandria. Clutia Coliina. 96 Twenty-third Class* PoLYGAMiA, of many and marriage, plants of a variety of sexes, that is, hermaphro- dite flowers, and likewise male or female flow^ers, or both on the same plant, or on distinct plants of the same genus; and from the different circumstances of polygamia this class is divided into three orders. The orders are, 1. PoLYGAMiA MoNOEciA — the polyga- mia all on the same plant. Holcus Bicolor. 2. PoLYGAMiA DioEciA — the polyga- mia on two distinct plants. Fraxinus Ame- ricana. 3. PoLYGAMiA Trioecia — the polyga- mia on three distinct plants. Ficus, carica- Twenty-fourth Class. Cryptogam lA, of to hide or conceal and a marriage^ a clandestine marriage^ — plants that have their fructifications either entire- ly concealed, or, from their minuteness or situation, are imperfectly visible: such are the ferns, mosses, flags, sea- weed or wrack^ afid mushrooms, and of which the classic character is very imperfect, and the gene- ra of course without any essential mark or distinction, so great is the obscurity that still prevails in this considerable part of the vegetable kingdom. This class of imperfect plants is divided into four orders or families, very different in their general habit. The orders are, 1. Cryptogamia Filices — the Filices or Ferns. This is a large tribe of plants, defined to be plants which bear their flower and fruit on the back of their leaves; but the flower and other parts of fructification are so mi- nute,* or imperfectly visible, that they do not admit of any regular classic distinc- ti(m. 2. Cryptogamia Musci — Mitsci orMos- ses. This is also a large tribe of plants with imperfect distinguishable fructifications: their chief characteristic distinction is — anthcrse without filaments — male flowers, constituted by the presence of the antherje— 9 98 the antherse have, or are destitute of a calyptra — seeds entirely naked, being de- void of the cotyledon or cover, so exhibit the naked erabrio. See Musci. 3. CuTPTOGAMiA Alg^ — MgCB, Flags or Sea-weed. A numerous tribe of imperfect plants, whose root, stem, and leaf are all one, and their fructification imperfectly known. 4. Cryptogamia Fungi — Fungi, or Mushrooms. A very extensive tribe of plants, whose fructification is still entirely unknown. By the foregoing arrangement of the twenty-four classes of tlic vegetable king- dom, and their respective orders, the stu* dent in gardening and botany will easily explain to himself the proper class and order of all the different generaj especial- ly, as to each genus we have all along sub- joined the name of the class and order to which it belongs, as also a plant of each or- der; observing, that all the different species and varieties of each genera or g«'nus, are also all of the same class and order. t^u^bm 99 Doctor Withering in his arrangement of British plants, has distributed the plants of four of the Linnsean classes, Gynandria, Monoecia, Dioecia, and Polygamia among the first nineteen, according to the num- ber of their stamens. THE EN1>. '■■ ^.--AyA.-.^ CONTENTS. Page. Hyacinths grown in the open ground, - 5 Compost or soil necessary to hyacinths, - 6 Moisture or wet detrimental to hyacinths, 8 Evaporation of hyacinths, - - - 11 Time of plantins; hyacinths, - - - 15 Frost detrimental to hyacinths, - - 16 Time of taking them out of the ground, - 17 How to treat hyacinths and narcissus, grown on glasses, - - - - - 21 To blow hyacinths and narcissus in pots, 24 To blow crocuses and snowdrops in pots 27 To blow lilies of the valley in pots, - 28 Sweet or due van thol tulips, - - 29 Guernsey lilies, - - - . _ 3q Ranunculusses, time of planting, &c. - 30 Anemonies, do. do. - - 34 Single and double jonquils, do. - » 35 White lilies, 37 Pinks and carnations, how to treat, - 38 do. do. how to lay, - - 39 do. do. propagate by pipings 41 Roses, the best for forcing, 6ic. - - 43 ■ ^/>|j>ui.'||P"'|*