" 4 o / \ ^ v » " • < <$> " o H o ' fl,T O * , 3 -J "bv* -^ **. °* ./X o v ,*••' >'- ^0* si **tu DE. SUTHERLAND'S SYSTEM OF EDUCATING THE HORSE, with RUlffi FOR TEACHING THE HORSK 80ME V< >I1TY DIFFERENT TRICKS OR FEATS, SUCH AS CALLED, MAKE A BOW, SHAKE HANDS, KNOCK ONTHEDOOR ROUND [E TABLE .11 Ml' OVER Till; Will!'. .11 Ml' THROI OH THE HOOP, LIE Dl I El iWN, SIT UP, WALK ON THREE LEGS, STAND ON lll\T> I. Kin. VVALI i H ID LEGS V YES, SAY X<>, WALTZ, PICK UP L'HfNGS, HOLD THINGS, CAKRY A.S'D 1 ; . COME WHEN STAND ON THE DOWJ SAY OFF CAP, COAT, MITTENS, &c, UNBI lvI,E SADDLI GIRTH ' ID l\AKE OKJ SADDL1 OPEN AND SHUT THE DOOR, PUMP WATER, FIRE GUN OR PISTOL AT A MARK, RING A BELL FIND HTODEN THINGS, TELL Ills ' B C's ADD, MULTIPLY. < READ, COUNT OR SELECT THE CARD CALLED FDR, TELL THE TIME OF ] .\ ITCH ANSWER ANY QUESTION IN' THE MULTIPLICATION TABLE, TEL1 HIS AGE DAYS IN THE WEEK, MONTH-: IN THE YEAR, &c, TELL FORTUNE, BRIN(i THE CARD I ALLED FOR - PASS AROl tAT FOR A I "I.I.I CTION. BEING ENTIRELY "ORIGINAL," i First Work on Educating the Horse ever Published. ALSO, DIRECTIONS FOR TAMING, SUBDUING AND BREAKING THE YOUNG HORSE TO THE HALTER, SADDLE AND HARNESS, AND THE BEST METHOD FOR CUBING OR BREAKING Till': OLD AND VICIOUS HORSE OF BALKING. KICKING, REARING AND RUNNING, \.\fi MAKING THE once WORTHLESS HORSE, U3AIN KIND, GENTLE, AND VALUABLE. WITH DIRECTI02 FOR SJ G A GOOD HORSE, AND Rl TELLING THE AGE OF THE HOR I u Hermon, St. Lawrence Co., N. Y. ■ The tramp of m> - teed o w ifi b [g dearer thai weeter thai POTSDAM: FAY, BAKER & Co.'s STEAM POWER PRESSES 1861. S Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1861, by G. H. SUTHERLAND, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Northern District of New York. la t> p I INTRODUCTION " Bound proudly my steed ; nor bound proudly in vain, Since thy master is now himself again ; And thine be the praise, when the leech's power Is idle to conquer the darkened hour — By the might of thy sounding hoof to win Beauty without and joy within : Beauty, else to my eyes unseen, And joy, that then had a stranger been. ? ' Idler. Among all the animals with which Providence has stocked the earth, what one can compare, in beauty, speed and service, with the Horse ? While he is possessed of a flight of speed nearly equal to the " Iron Horse,'' he submits his neck, " cloth- ed in thunder," to be restrained by a silken rein. From the earliest ages the horse has been identified with man in all his perils, triumphs, labors, pleasures and repose. The sentiment has been common among all good men, to treat the horse and dog with especial kindness, and to cherish and protect them, even when the infirmities of old age and long service have ren- dered them useless. The horse has always been man's ally and faithful slave. In war he not only moves all the machinery of the field and camp, but shares with his rkler all the dangers and fatigues of the battle. Every branch oJ industry owes much to his patient toil. lie not only patiently toils before the loaded wagon, but shares the excitements and pleasures of the race. Hence there is no animal that so much deserves our warmesl sympa- thy and kind attention. And that man is greatly to be pitied who honestly say, •• 1 care nothing for a horse : " who has no appreciation oi' the almost Unman intelligence, the unflinching spirit, the majestic beauty, and the marvelous power and fleet- aess of a splendid horse. And that man who will knowingly or wilfully injure or inlliet unnecessary pain on the horse, •• Is only fit for deeds oi' darkness, stratagems and -;•> ds : irit ore dull «? night, \,vl i, - dark as erebus. Let no such man be The Arabian florae. CHAPTER I . A NEW AND OUKJIXAL SYSTEM FOE TAMING, BREAKING AND EDUCATING THE YOUNG EORSE. "They hailed the colt ; for speed and fire Had marked his breed through dam and sire, Far back to those whose hoofl had pressed The sands of Araby the blessed." Having been engaged for several years past in the practice of medicine, I have been under the necessity of keeping one or more horses for the most part of the time ; and as the labor was of a light nature, it was well calculated for breaking and training the young horse, as it gave him almost constant em- ployment, without that wear and tear to the constitution that most kinds of constant labor would produce. And being a great lover of the horse, I have not only trained and broke what few young horses I have owned during this time, to the halter, saddle and harness, but have taught them many feats or 6 tricks, such as lying down, sitting up, walking on three logs. making bows, jumping the whip, jumping through • hoop, an- swering questions, unbuckling his saddle girth and taking off his saddle, spelling, counting, telling fortunes, and playing cards : besides breaking or curing many old and virions horses of balking, rearing, kicking and running away. .Many of these were of the very worst character, and mv success has been such that if a man possessed a horse that had resisted all man- ner and kinds of treatment, he was as a last resort brought to me. and I never have yet tailed in one instance of making the most vicious horse again perfectly docile anil gentle while un- der my control, and the most of them remained, good and faith- ful servants the remainder of their lives. Hut some few, after being again exposed to the same influence or treatmenl that had made them wild or vicious, " returned like the sow that was washed to her wallowing in the mire." Could those few have remained with me, or been treated with kindness, they no doubt would have remained gentle, true, and faithful to the ast. ,-.vy's ^ym of laming and subduing the horse is mak an almost entire revolution in the treatment of the horse. His system is superior to anything before published, and his name will be ranked with other public ben - of the age. -hall not give my system 10 the puhiie as a rival system; but as a co-worker in that great but negl< Id of educa- tion. 1 shall strive to adhere still closer to thai one great ,prin- ciple, kindness. I am convinced, by observation as well as ex- perience, that we can successfully tame, subdue and control the most wild and vicious horse by kindness alone, without re- sorting to the use of drugs, whip, letters, or strangulation, and make the most vicious and savage horse not only eat from our hands and lie down at our bidding, em follow us around like some pet lamb. By this one great principle, kindness, we can not only successfully govern our families, but control the in- mates of schools, workhouses and prisons, and reclaim the most hardened criminal, when all other means fail. And the public have only yet to learn the fact that we can by this same sytem mine, subdue and control the horse sooner, safer and better than by any other system or method before prac- ticed by the public. It is an old and true maxim that the " gen- tle hand leads the elephant by the hair." He surely is the merciful man who puts the whip into the manger and not on to the horse All young horses, I contend, can be subdued and rendered kind, safe and useful, by a proper application of the following rules or directions, and my object iii laying down these rules will be to teach the her .-email hew to apply them under differ- ent circumstances. These simple rules, with a person pes ed of a common share of intelligence and ingenuity, will never fail or disappoint him. There is no " hokns pokue " or black art about them : they are founded OB one of those great Jaws of nature, and can be successfully applied by any person of judgment and ingenuity. Since taming and subduing the young horse is one of the first . or the A B C in that important but ill understood process of preparing the young Horse for all those man-) and important situations in Bociety that he is destined as well as qualified by his nature to occupy ; whether in the homely gear of field labor, or in the gorgeous trappings of the tourna- ment or chariot of war, or to astonish the world with his mighty flights of speed, like the Plying Childers or Godblphin Arabian, or more recently, our Planet, Fashion, Flora Temple, Ethan Allen, or Geo. M. Patchen, — how oecej tary then that we make a proper beginning, that we thoroughly understand the busi- ness that we are engaged in; for it, is equally true oi the young horse as of the child, "just as the twig is bent the tree is inclined.'' h. is much easier to prevent an evil than to erad- cate it after ii i once established. My system is founded on the principle that "Adam's fall" did not in the least affect his horse — that all of those vicious and dangerous habits that our horses possess are no1 Datura! to the horse, but have been taught him in different ways, by mis- chievous or ignorant grooms. The Lord, after he had created what few horses and other stock necessary for old father Adam to commence business with, pronounced them all "good,'' and we have every reason for believing it was so. This being the case, how important that we bo manage our hi rsei that they shall not contract one bad or dangerous vice to reduce their value, or render them unsafe or dangerous. The horse has no consciousness of his strength or power. beyond his experience ; and if we can succeed, while taming and breaking him, in keeping him in ignorance of his power to do mischief, we shall have no trouble in making the young horse, in every instance, perfectly gentle and obedient ; culti- vate his noble qualities, and let these useless and dangerous passions He dormant and inactive ; strive first to gain his friend- ship, and then his love. The horse reasons very imperfectly ; give him a mind in proportion to his strength, and he would soon demand the green fields for his inheritance, where he could "roam where he pleased and breathe the fresh air.*' and would deny all right of man to enslave him. A\ ith this system the owner of the horse can successfully lame, subdue and break to the halter, saddle and harness his young colts or horses, without the use of the whip, drugs, or fetters, and without their contracting one bad habit to render them dangerous or worthless. By this system you can cure the vicious horse of all his old and vicious habits that he has acquired by bad management, and mako the worthless and dangerous animals again good and valuable servants the remain- der of their lives. This system of educating the horse being entirely original, and the first work of the kind ever published in this or any other country, it will be sought after with avidi- ty in this age of fast men, fast women and fast horses. The more the horse is educated, the more obedient and compan- ionable he will be, and the more he will be loved, and conse- quently better cared for. w. The Horse of All Work. CHAPTER II TAMING AND SUBDUING THE HORSE. *« And mettled nags shall paw the earth, and prance, Restive to bear, as light as ocean's surf, Their graceful burthens o'er the springy turf ; Impatient for the golden hour, when The test shall come, of which equestrienne Shall wear the rose-wreath, meed of merit proud, Amid the plaudits of the smiling crowd, For having gained, by flying o'er the green, The royal title of the Turf's Fair Queen." However horsemen may differ in relation to the manner of inculcating the first lessons, all seem to agree that perfect kind- ness and gentleness should characterize our first endeavors to bring the young horse into subjection. The breaking and training the young horse to all the differ- ent kinds of service for which, when matured, he will be used, should commence at an early age. The reason for this is ob- 10 vious. As the young horse advances towards maturity he be- comes fixed in his habits and more strong: and resolute, and is able to offer greater resistance. In training and breaking the horse too much pains cannot be taken to have every descrip- tion of halter, harness or other fixings put upon him perfectly sound and strong. Accidents arising from defects in the hal- ter, harness or carriage, are not only dangerous to the horse- man, but often ruinous to the young horse. Before you commence taming or subduing the young horse, prepare a large room or stable where you can confine him and be excluded as much as possible from view, and from every thing that might tend to disturb him; remove all children, dogs and hens from your stable ; have the floor well littered with straw, tan bark or saw dust ; next prepare your pocket with a few handfuls of corn, or some other grain, or a few crackers. All being now ready, you will next proceed to get him into the stable. This is very easily accomplished by first lead- ing in some broke horse, and placing him in one corner, in plain view from the yard. The young horse will generally very soon walk in of his own accord ; if not, do not undertake to drive him in at once. Avoid all haste ; walk quietly around his yard, keep your arms hanging by your side ; now very gradually give him less room, by slowly closing around him ; lie will not attempt to break away unless } r ou frighten him ; keep following him around until he will soon walk into the stable. Now give him time to examine his apartment, when he will soon become reconciled to his situation. The horse has a natural inclination to examine everything, and this he does by first taking a look at it, and then smelling or putting his nose upon it — this is his way of examisingthings. Although he may examine a thing ever so sharply by looking at. it, yet he does not appear to be satisfied until lie has touched it with his nose. When frightened by any object, he will run a short distance, but will soon return, and very cautiously walk around it a short distance off, gradually coming nearer with his head reached out as far as possible, until he can touch it with his nose, then all is right, Knowing this singular characteristic of the horse you will be better prepared to manage him. As soon as he appears quiet, go gently into his stall, (better to be alone 11 if possible,) slowly walk around his apartment, talk to him, give him every opportunity to examine you. He will soon learn that you are not disposed to injure him, and the presence of the broke horse inspires confidence, and he will soon allow you to place your hand on him. Now caress him, rub his head, neck or body, or the part nearest you very gently at every op- portunity ; quietly touch and rub those places that are agreea- ble to him ; those places that he cannot easily rub or touch with his mouth or feet, such as the back, top of the hips, jowles, the underside of the neck and head. There is a quieting, or soothing, or if you please a sort of mesmeric influence in those gentle strokes or u passes " that no animal can resist. He will soon allow you to rub or handle his body without flying from you. Give him often a few kernels of corn or a bit of cracker. As soon as he will allow you to walk up to him and handle every part of his body, and eat from your hands, you have got him sufficiently tamed to halter. Many young horses will allow you to walk up to them at once, and place the halter on their heads, while others are more shy and timid ; but the majority will allow you to place the halter on their heads in from fifteen minutes to half an hour. While taming and subduing the young horse, great care should be taken to reward every act of obedience by gentle- caress, a pat and a kind word. There is no secret in the busi ness — it is accomplished by kindness alone ; you can conquer him by kindness, and you pain his love by caresses, and the horse that loves you will obey you. But a man, to succeed in taming and breaking the horse, must be at least half horse — he must love and almost worship him, and feel like exclaiming — " The tramp of my steed, so swift and strong, la dearer than fame and sweeter than song." The English Hunter. CHAPTER III. BREAKING THE YOUNG BORSE TO THE HALTEE **■ With spurning hoof he paws the ground. Ho champs his bit, and looks around — On high he waves his lofty crest. Erects his ears, expands his chest ; And, like the rainbow's arch, his neck Is curved, tho' not with bridle's check. Restless he stands, with nostrils wide. And with his neighing seems to chide The huntsmen for their long delay. For eager he pants to hark away ! ' ' After your horse has become sufficiently gentle, and will allow you to approach him without flying from you, and allow you to handle every part of his body, and eat from your hand, or, perhaps, as many will by this time follow you around the stable, you may place the halter on his head. Always use a leather halter in breaking the young horse : let 13 the leather be strong and pliable, and easily and nicely fitted to his head. Never put a ropo halter on a young horse ; the cords are hard, and hurt his head when he pulls ever so lightly. Being hurt, the horse will instinctively try to get his head out of the halter, and the harder he pulls the tighter and harder it will pinch and hurt his head, and he will generally pull and struggle until the halter breaks, or he throws himself several times, and by this means not only contracts the habit of pulling but endangers his life and limbs. All being now ready you will take the halter in your left hand, and very slowly approach the colt ; don't bo in a hurry ; give him time to examine every part of the halter in his own particular way. While he is examining the halter, caress and feed him from your pocket ; perhaps while you are caressing and feeding him you can place the halter on his head, but if he should be somewhat wild or shy, you can always succeed in the following manner : Unbuckle the top of your halter, and then take hold of the end of the long strap that goes over his head with your right hand and carry it under his neck, while you reach the left hand over his neck and grasp the end of this same long strap. Now lower the halter just enough to get his nose into the nose-piece, and then raise up the halter to its proper place and fasten your buckle, and all is right. In haltering and leading the young horse it would be well to bear in mind the old maxim, " that the gentle hand leads the elephant by a hair." Next splice out your halter some twelve or fourteen feet, so that you can let him walk around the stable without checking him or letting go the halter. After ho has become somewhat used to the halter, you can begin to give him some idea about being led._ Don't undertake to hold him still, or draw him after you ; if you do not make him pull he never will try, for he knows nothing about his strength. You can begin to control him by gently taking up the halter in your hand and shortening the distance between you and him. Never pull on the halter in a straight line with his body, but first stop to the right or left, and then pull him gently towards you, as ho has nothing to brace either side of his neck ; he will soon be compelled to yield to a steady pull on the halter ; as soon as he moves one or more steps towards 14 you, stop and caress him. Whenever you pull on the halter in this way, speak to him pleasantly, and call him by his name ; the horse soon learns to comprehend what we say, and by ad- dressing him always with the same gentle tone of voice in con- nection with the same requirements, he very readily becomes willing to obey merely by addressing him. When you have succeeded in making him step towards you, and after reward- ing him suitably, gently pull him the other way, first to the right and then to the left, or vice versa. Repeat this operation until he will follow you in any direction around the stable, not knowing that he has the power to do otherwise, and since you have treated him with so much kindness he is no longer afraid of you, and by your caresses and gentle voice you have so far conquered him and gained his friendship, that he would sooner follow you than not. Now you can remove the broke horse, for by this time he will leave even his father and mother and follow you. After leading him back and forth around the sta- ble for a short time, open the door of his stable. Now lead him back and forth by it several times, and then you may take him out into the yard or street. Always in taming and haltering the young horse, see that there is no person either in or around the stable, as the presence of the second person not only at- tracts his attention but often frightens him. By treating the horse in this gentle and humane manner, you soon banish all fear, and likewise gain his love, and he will strive to obey you, not only because it is a pleasure, but in order to receive those little rewards in the shape of caresses and corn that he has been in the habit of receiving for obedience. There is no horse so wild or vicious but what can be completely tamed and subdued, and will submit to be led around in any direction, by a proper application of these rules, without as much as once rearing or throwing themselves. The BnglisK Thoroughbred. CHAPTER IV BREAKIXG THE YOUNG HORSE TO THE SADDLE " Gamarra is a dainty steed, Strong, bay, and of a noble breed, Full of lire and full of bone, With all his line of fathers known. Fine his nose and nostrils thin, But blown abroad by the pride within. His mane is like a river flowing, And his eyes like embers glowing In the darkness of the night, And his pace as swift as light.'" In breaking the young horse to the saddle, you will treat him in that same gentle and quiet manner as direeted in taming and breaking them to the halter. Many horsemen first break their young horses to the harness before they attempt to ride them ; and it is often the best plan of management. Indeed, there are very few young horses, if any, that have been properly broke 16 to the halter and harness, but what you could mount and ride with perfect ease and safety. Before you commence breaking your horse to the saddle, prepare a suitable room or stable: have the floor well littered with straw or tanbark, and remove everything that would tend to frighten or disturb him, and if possible have no other per- son in or around the stable to disturb or attract his attention. Xow place upon him a good strong bridle, with a plain snaffle bit. You will have no trouble in putting- on his bridle, as he will not notice the difference between the bridle and the halter that he has been in the habit of weaving, except in the bit : this he may not relish quite so well at first, but he will very soon become accustomed to its presence in his mouth. Next take the saddle in your hand and let him examine it, look at it. smell of it. and rub his nose against it. and when he has had sufficient time to make the necessary examinations, and satisfied himself that there is nothing about it that will hurt or injure him, you will take the saddle under your right arm, and while you are caressing him. gently place it on his back, give it quite a num- ber of shakes, that he may be aware of the presence of the sad- dle on his back: if he is not disposed to object to its being there, you may very gently place the crouper under his tail, and then make the saddle fast to its place by buckling the girth moderately tight around him. Allow him to stand for a short time in his stall, or until he gets somewhat used to the pres- ence and pressure oi' the saddle. If your bridle has double reins, so much the better, if not, you will attach another tem- porary set. and by means of those extra reins, and a ring pre- pared for the purpose in the front end of your saddle. •' check up " your horse to any required position, and have him by this means more completely under your control; Have your check quite loose at first, and then tighten it as circumstances or your taste may dictate, as you progress in breaking your horse, but always loosen it while your horse is standing. You can now lead him around for a short time, or until he becomes somewhat used to the crouper and the check rein. As soon as he appears quiet and docile, throw the other reins over his head, as vou would in riding - , and then with a 17 hand on either sfde of his saddle, walk by his side and drive him around the stable, stop often and carets him, and feed him from your pocket. As soon as lie will allow fob to drive him around in this way, and start and stop when bid, you may place your right foot in the stirrnp, and with your right hand bearing ori the opposite side of your saddle, bear quite hard in the stir- rnp. Repeat this often, first on-one side, and then on the other; now in the same wny place your foot in the stirrup and raise yourself slowly up: if he appears afraid or restless, stop and ca- iiiin. Whenever you make a move to lead or mount him, speak to him pleasantly, call him by name; always use the same gentle tones of voice. If he will submit to all this and remain quiet, you can throw your body across the saddle, or throw your leg over his crouper and place yourself in the saddle. Now pat and caress him while sitting in the saddle ; mount and dismount several times. As soon as you can mount and dismount, and turn him this way U id that way, and start and stop when bid, you may commence to ride him around the room or stable. Always keep your left the shortest,' ^nd in this 1 way yon will prevent him from making any sudden spring. Give him a few lessons in this way stopping him often, mounting and dismounting until you can ride him in any direction you may choose, and then you may take him into a large yard or the street. Perhaps you would do well now to make his check somewhat tighter — this alone is one powerful means of conquering and controlling the young Uor^e, but never allow it to lie on him any great length of time very tight, while standing, or while you are caressing him — al- ways loosen the check rein. Give him short rides at first; if he ars restless or angry, talk to him. If necessary, stop and dismount and loosen his cheek, and walk around him; as soon as he appears quiet, mount him again, and he will soon allow you to mount him without moving a foot, and ride him in any direc- tion without as much as once rearing or throwing himself or his rider, and has not contracted one bad habit or vice while break- ing, to reduce his value, or render him in |any way unsafe or dangerous. As your horse becomes gentle you can lengthen or shorten his check until you bring his head and neck into any position your judgment or fancy may dictate. Much has been said and la written on the use and abuse of the " eheek rein." While one would reeommend it under some particular circumstances, oth- ers again would condemn it altogether. The check rein, I con- sider, like many of our physicians, good in their place; but 1 must confess, too often found out of their place. In breaking- our young horses to the saddle and harness, it would be almost impossible to dispense with the cheek rein. It is a powerful means of controlling , the horse, and bringing his head and neck into that graceful position so much admired by all amateurs of the horse. Our horses will often look, tra ami in every way closely match, except in the carrying of their heads, and by the humane use of the cheek, we can remedy this ono defect, and make the match perfect. But in breaking tin- young horse to the " turf.*' or for a "fast nag." wo should dis- pense with it almost entirely. Instead of forcing the head up and the nose in. we should allow them to extend them as much as possible, for the more the head, nock and body are brought into a straight line, the more straight and direct the "breathing tube " that leads from the lungs, and consequently the freer and easier the breathing will be. and this is quite an important item with the sporting man. Never use martingales on a young horse when you ride him for the first few times. Every movement of the hand should go directly to the bit. in the direction in which it is applied, without the martingales to change the direction of the force applied. After your horse has been rode until he is well accus- tomed to the bit, you may then find it an advantage to put mar- tingales on him; indeed they are almost indispensable. Nothing now remains to complete his education but to teach him his paces; this is of the greatest importance, as on his per- fection in them depends much of his future usefulness and val- ue. No pace is of so much importance to the young horse as the walk, and the young horse should be thoroughly drilled in this before any attempt is made to push him into the trot. Don't be over anxious to have your horae acquire a reputa- tion for a " fast horse " before he has learned to move well in a natural trot. In riding always keep your reins snug, no matter how gentle the horse; the gentlest horse is liable to become frightened, besides your horse always needs a gentle pressure on the bit. Occasionally he should be pushed to his extreme 19 speed in tho trot, but he should be kept at it only for a few moments at a time, and whenever he has done well reward him with a kind and soothing word. "What greater luxury can a man possess than a young and gallant steed, well broke to the saddle, and what can be more cxhilerating or soul stirring than to escape from the con- lined office, or hot and dusty city, and throw ourselves into the saddle and gallop over the country and snuff tho fresh morning- air. A celebrated physician once said " if there was any cure for consumption it was in horseback riding." " With a glancing eye and curving inane, lie neighs and champs on the la-idle rein, One spring and his saddled lack I press, And ours is a common happiness. There is life in the breeze as we hasten on, With each boun 1 some care of earth is gone, And the languid pulse begins to play, And the nighl < :'my soul is turned t« The American Troticr. C H A P T E R V . [IONS FOB BREAKING THE YOUNG HARNESS. HORSE TO THE • "lis the rapture of motion — a hurrying olond, When the loosened winds ore breathing loud, And the dizzy earth seems reeling by, And nought is at rest but the arching sky. And nature, with all her love and grace. In the depths of my spirit can find no place." Idlek. In breaking the young horse to the names?, yon will treat him in that same quiet and gentle manner recommended in taming and breaking to the halter and saddle. You will take him into a large tight stable ; first remove every tiling that might tend to frighten r listnrb him ; better to be alone with him if possi- 21 ble, for the presence of a second person not only attracts bis attention, but often frightens him, and I have always found by experience that I could control and manage a horse better and sooner While alone with him, than when assisted b\ another person. After he has been in the stable a sufficient length of time to have eaxmined his apartment thoroughly, and satisfied himself that there is nothing about the premises that will injure him, you can fetch in your harness and place it on him in piecemeals. Work very slow — allow him time to exam- ine every part before you place it on him, in his own peculiar manner, by looking, smelling and nibbing hi3 nose on it. The horse always feels quite interested in these examinations, and always displays a sort of satisfaction after he has gone through with his investigations. And the quickest and easiest way of breaking the young horse to any one business is, to allow and encourage him to become interested in all that business he is about to engage in. After you have succeeded in placing the harness on him, al- low him to stand in his stall until he becomes somewhat used to the presence and pressure of the different parts, and will allow you to rattle them about, without his curing for them, and will eat from your hand. Now lead him around the stable for a short time ; if he appears restless or angry, stop and caress him ; ;>- soon as he appears quiet, check him up quite loosely, and take down the lines and drive him around the stable. When he be- comes familiar with the harness, cheek and lines, and will - when told, and stop when bid, and turn this way and that way. you can take him out into some yard or street and drive bin around ; stop often and talk to and caress him. When yon want him to go tell him to go, and when you want him to stop say whoa ; always tell the horse in a gentle tone of voice what you wish him to do; talk to hirn in plain language, and not talk to your horse as many of our best horsemen often do. The}' will say, for instance, go along, whoa ; whoa, go along ; back, whoa ; and whoa, back. Now how in the name of common sense is the poor horse to understand what they want ? He is told to go. and in the same breath he is told to stop — told to stop and at the same time told to go, and often receives the lash for doing as he is bid. How can any reasi nan expect his horse to obey when ad- aed after this manner? The horse is not a fool : he is ofl . .. — possessed oi superior talei - sqy of hiejnore favored mas- and if he was only possessed with the gift of speech like Baalam's Ass oi'eid. would often be capable of -giving their mas- ters useful and important lessons on the treatment of the horse, The horse not only soon loarns to comprehend what wo say to him. but also understands our gestures as wall ;l:; [iiC different expressions ot' our countenances. As soon as he will allow J on to drive him around the yard or street, ami obey you as in the stable, you can place him before a good strong sulky. It ia ab- solutely necessary tfyat you have a good strong harness, as well as all other fixtures m breaking the horse. Many good and val- uable young horses have boon ruined by having- some part of an old rotten harness or carriage give way while driving, to say nothing about the limbs broken and lives lost by the oeenr- reik v . Give him time to examine the sulkey, turn it round, let him smell of it ami touch it with his nose, and stand by ii until he lees no: oare tor it. Now let him stand direetly before the sulkey, while some person stands en the rigin side and holds him by the bit. while yor. stand on the left side facing the sulkey. Now run your left hand back until it rests on his hips, and then j told of the shafts with your right hand, and draw the sulkey very gently up until the shafts are square over him. and then '.em down very gently and place them in the shaft-heaivrs. A.s soon as they are in place, shake them so thai he may feel them : horse befon the door upon which you wish him to rap. and, standing on the nearside will tap him lightly on the [eft Fore Leg, as in teaching bun to shako hands, and call upon him to knock on the door. This will cause him to strike or paw with his foot, in a. taps, and by placing him at i u propel distance from the door, he will strike it with his toe. For this you must caress and re- ward him. and by frequent repetition he will soon learn to knock upon a door as certainly and as knowingly as many of our "spiritual rappers." This trick is scarcely entitled to the name of trick, and is of itself rather a simple affair, but when united with others that follow, it adds materially to its value. In this place we merely teach the horse to knock on the door, before we get through, we shall teach him not only to knock on the door, but to unfasten, then open it. pass through, and shut the door behind him : the whole of which make a splendid, affair. In educating your horse, you will often succeed better to take hi:.: into your training yard, and rehearse the different tricks alreadx taughl him, < I oh, or when I somewhat hungry, as he will then be more anxious order to receive the Hale rewards in the form i crackers or 35 In rehi - i -rse them in order, as you Lav. | em. calling upon yom horse to perform different tr : . : ., dis- ice, call him I if to lie down, tell him to lie <:• Al g '• ■ 5, and tl to '■< mprel end what y C II A P T E R X 1 . RICK I STAND ON A TAB] Yov will commence teaching the horse to stand on a table by 6 ring him stop upon some Btrong box or platform tod or twelve inches high, and alter suitably rewarding him m or- der to make him yield cheerful obedience, you can gradually increase the night of your box or platform until lie will rear up and 'place his leer on the top of a strong table, or even higher if required. If yon should be so disposed, yon can soon teach your horse to rear up and place his tore toot in the '"tail end" )fa wagi structed for the purpose,) or any common low ■ wagon, and allow himself to be drawn .-round. Tins no by first making him place his lore feet in the back end v -: ■ Qg - ed or sleigh, and then with caresses, I q quiet while he can be drawn around. Repeat this adually increasing the hight of your carriage, until your horse will rear tip. place his fore foot in the back end of my strong cart or wagon, and allow himself to bo drawn around. By the same gradual process 3 on ran so >n teach of those small Lilliputian ponies not only to place his tore feet npon a summon table, but leap upon it with all four oi' his . lily as a cat would leap upon a counter. Since yon will a good strong table for teaohing this trick and many oth- ers that will follow, I here annex the description of such an one as yon will find convenient, and will answer nil purposes for 1 a table will 1 ided. st plan would be. first to make a common 37 strong ' ' iirty inches high, and three leer square Let the legs be three inches square, and the top of .nch and a Lull plank. This will make a table sufficiently strong to allow any small horse to place his fore feet upon it. Place an inch board fourteen inches wide, edgwise through the centre of your table, then divide one side of your table into three step3 or -tairs about three inches high, and six inches wide. In some of the tricks which follow, such as playing cards, rhaps you may lack the physical strength nec< 3sar; control even a small and docile horse : and for such Instai I insert " another method " of making the horse lie down. It is upon the same principle practiced by Rarey the great horse tamer: but it is rather a harsh operation, and not without danger to the horse, and should never be resorted to except in extreme case.-. To teach your horse to lie down by this method, take him to some smooth place, your training yard, or a large stable with the floor well littered. Put a strong surcingle around his body, and then fasten one end of a long strap or rope to the right fore leg just below the fetlock, while the other end passes back through the surcingle under his belly. This will keep the strap in the right direction. Then bend up his left fore leg. and place a soft strong strait around it in such a maimer that he cannot get it down. Ail being now ready, you will place your- self at his left side, take hold of 'the bridle near the bit with your left hand, while you grasp the strap with your right, (or you can pass this strap or rope to a second person who will stand behind you.) Xow steadily pull on his bit in the direc- tion his fore foci Would stand, and at tie same time pul] gently on your strap while you call upon him to lie down, and at the same time lean quite heavily against ids shoulder. This will soon cause hiin to move. The moment hi 3 weight from r Hub foot, your pulling will rai the sa obliged to full upon his knees, li' you ke trap tig: your hand, he cannot straighten his Leg if ho raises up. Hold him in tin- position while you bear against hi- ihoulder, and in ■i. very few momenta he will lie down. A lone . .move your straps, straighten out his legs, car hiro, and after he ted a few moments, allow him to up. By repeating this a few times you wili have no trouble in making him lie down as direct',' 1 in the prece ver yet found a horse but that I could make . : . I '• without resorting to this method, and I ba e val- uable horses materially injured by repeated knee- while fettered in this manner. CHAPTER X V J I THICK llTii— TO KNEEL DOWN. In teaching the horse to kneel down, take him into your training yard, stable, or any other convenient, smooth place, either on the ground or a floor well littered. The horse will not readily kneel upon hard ground or on the bare floor, be- cause his knees are very sensitive or tender. After teaching your horse to "lie down" it is a very easy matter to make him kneel. You will proceed as in teaching him to lie down, only you will call upon him to kneel instead of lie down. As soon as he drops upon his knees preparatory to lying down, stop him in this position, caress and reward him. By frequent rep- etition he will learn to kneel at once when told to do so, or by any familiar signal you may choose to adopt. If your horse has not been taught to lie down he can be taught to kneel, but not as readily. You will stand on the left side, rather in front , of him, or with your horse's head at your left elbow. Then take the horse by the bit with your left hand and gently draw his head down and back while you hit him lightly on' the fore leg with your rod, and call upon him to kneel down. He will soon come down upon one knee, and then the other. As soon as he gets upon both knees, caress him and reward him with a few kernels from your pocket. Repeat this often, and your horse will soon drop upon both knees when called upon to do so, or from any particular signal you may adopt. If you wish, you can now make your horse kneel for you to mount or dis- mount, or for the purpose of placing burthens on hi? back, like the poor camels on the barren deserts of Sahara. H A F T E R X V 1 I I . ro i i ' Take your horse I ient place and ■ aake him lie down. In order to make the horse sit up, you are tc call to mind his peculiar way of getting up, when not disturbed. He first turns on his belly, throws out his fore feet, and rais himself on them springs forward and rises on his hind feet. You will take the advantage of him, and compel him to sit up in the following manner : After you have made him lie dow] you will place yourself on the near side, turn or roll him on his belly, straighten out his fore feet in front of him, and throw the reins over his head, and hold them as in riding. Stand with your right foot upon his tail. Now tell him to sit up, and as he rises upon his fore feet, by taking a firm hold of the rein- on either side of his neck, you can prevent his giving that spring forward, and retain him in the sitting posture : stop him in this position by means of the reins and your weight upon his tail. Keep him only a few moments in this position, while you pet, caress, and give him a few kernels from your pocket. Re. peat this exercise several times at each training, and you] horse will very soon, when rising from his recumbent posil stop upon his haunches as readily as a dog. This is one of the prettiest tricks that can be taught the horse, and before we close we shall be able to make the h< sit down with other gentlemen and take a friendly game of old Sledge, in training the horse to perform this, and many of the accompanying tricks, it requires tact more than strength. ': mere boy, if he only possesses that peculiar tact, or instinct you may call it, is capable of controlling any common young horse, and for the benefit of the few who may lack these ne sary ingredients, I insert another method. C II A P T E P X I X TRICK L3th— TO SIT UP— ANOTHEB METHOD • To teach the horse to sit up, it may sometimes bta necessary r resort to artificial means to control him. The horse ma;. a large and powerful animal, or the person training him may be deficient in physical strength, or may not possess the tad skill requisite to control the horse, as directed in the first meth- For such instances I here insert another method. Yon will mence (as with the other method) by taking your horse into your training yard, or some other convenient place. Put on him a common hame collar, and make him lie down. Then take some small rope or strap ; make one end i'ast to his right hind leg he Low the fetlock, let the other end pass between his lore legs and through the collar. Now proceed (as in the other method) to turn or make him roll on his belly, and straighten out his for< Legs in front of him. Throw the reins over his neck, and place your right foot on his tail. Then take a firm hold of this strap with your right hand, (or you can give it to an assistant who will stand behind you.) and call upon him to sit up. or get up. By holding him firmly by the bridle, as in the preceding trick. • tilling gently upon the strap at the same time, you can ea- sily control the most powerful horse, and keep him in the sitting posture as long as you please. As soon as he rises upon his fore legs,stop him, caress him, ami iced him from your pocket. Keep him in this position a short time, and then allow him to get up. Repeat this a very few times, and you will have no trouble in holding him in the sitting posture, as recommended in the other method. There are very few I . but that can be held without this extra heip.it managed by a person possessed o£ the »er skill and judgment, as it requires more tact than strength erforming thes 3 with tin CHAPTER XX. TRII K L4th— TO WALK ON THREE LEGS YOU U teaeiiim by step] >re him and taking him I t with left hand, while with your right you hit him lightly on his left fore leg with your rod. This will make him take up In.- I hut he will put it immediately down again, and then you will hit it again as before. Follow this up for a short time, hitting it every time - it down, and stopping and caressing him whenever he holds it up, until he will hold it up whenever you make a threatening motion with the rod. Repeat this quit< i. call upon him to hold up his foot, every time, before you hit or make a motion to hit him. When you can make him hold up his leg some little time, you can commence _; him to walk. While you are holding him (as before directed,; and he is standing upon three legs, <-all on him to come to you : and at the same time gently encou s ■ lim to walk, while you threaten his leg with your rod rf he puts it down, in this way he will . take one or more steps. As booh as he takes the fi stop, ■ aress him and feed him from your pocket. Give him or more I ach day, making him walk a little farther • time. In this way your horse will soon follow you around the yard. This trick requires considerable patience and practice your horte will walk off glibly on three legs, [f you choose you can in the same manner teach your horse to hold up any fool and walk on the other three. When you get your horse well trained to walk on three legs.so thai he will ••go lame," or "play lame,'" by some sly signal that you can adopt, unknown to those not in the secret, and hold up any one leg when told, even the hind ones, and walk on the other three, your horse is nearly doubled in value even if he should not understand an; trick. You are well . '-very hour spent in training him, as this is one of the prettiest tricks taught, CHAPTER XXI. PRICK LpTH— TO STAND ON HIND LEGS You can teach the horse to stand on his hind Legs in your training yard better perhaps than in any other [dace, as thesta- general thing would nol beof sufficient hight, and in • ■-■■■- ;. ■;■ ould nut so well control him. You will commence by pi icing on your horse a bridle with a running rein, and then with a long bow whip, you will step lb front of him and call upon him to "stand up," and at the same time hit him lightly around the fore Legs with your whip. 11' should run back, follow him up and continue calling upon him t ) -land up, while you hit him around the tore legs with your whip. As soon as he becomes angry he will rear up : then will stop, walk up to him, caress and feed him. Allow him to stand a short time, or until you have become friends again, than repeat the same until he will rear up whenever called upon to do so, whether by words or threatening motions of the whip* Then you will commence to instruct him to stand up for .some little time. This you will do by calling- upon him to stand up and when he rears up endeavor to make him standi some little time by calling upon him to stand up, by threatening motions oi ■ whip, or if necessary hitting him quite hard around the legs. At firsl you only required him to rear up, and rewarded him for it. Now you not only require him to rear up, but to stand some little time. Whenever you ran succeed in making him stand, if but for a moment, slop, caress and reward him Repeal this several times at each training, and in a very short time your horse will rear and stand some little time. This trick requires considerable practice before your horse, wid stand for any length of time, buj i1 is much sooner taught lan yon would at first imagine. The pony, or young colt, is h -'-nor taughl rlian 'ho full grown horse : bur vime, pa- tience and perseverence, wiil enable you to succeed in nearly every instance. This is quite a pretty trick to teach the ypUhg horse, but when united with his fellow, the next in order, it is really a splendid affair. CHAPTER XXII. TRICK L6th— TO WAL ■ v EIINJ Kliti Tu teach the horse to walk on his bind legs, it will be to' take him h yard. Commenci ] \ putti with the " running rein," and then tnake hiin " stand up. ' I on him to to you ; and at tin - time with yoi r< in gently encourage him to take one orinoresteps in ; If you fail in the first attempt, try again; keep trying h this way, until your horse will take one or more steps, and thei stop caress him, talk to him and pa} bin) well Irian your Repeat this as yen have the other tricks, making hin firs! perhaps one step, then two. then three, and so conl until he will follow you around the yard. Thisf trick siderable practice before your horse will walk aroun yard with ease and grace. But time and practice will at last always succeed, and when your horse will straighten himseli u] at his full length, and walk around his yard without bridle or halter, does not the sight well pay yen for every hoar g iii educating him ? Besides, you may perhaps have added hun- dreds to his value. To teach a horsi this trick as well as oth- ers in this work, labor slow; be very patient; dont undertake fci educate your horse in one day, or one week. Comm with one of the tricks, and teach him that well, and tb another, and so on. Improve every opportunity by takingyoui horse into the yard,oi some otheij convenient place, and rein ing the different tricks yon have taught him. It will perhaps be" impossible to teach every horse to stand on his hind legs* to say nothing of walking, but the most of them can be taught; but there are some few that appear I lack the neci se ancing powers or are no1 sufficiently tractable to lei CHAPTER XXIII. TRICK 17th— TO SAY FES. To teach the horse to say "yes," or nod his head when you vish him to answer "yes," you will stand on the left side of your horse, holding him, (if he should need holding,) with your left hand, while you hold your rod in your right. Nowask him any simple question. You will say for instance : ' Charlie, do you like corn?" or " Fanny, do you want some oats?" and if you ivani your horse to say "yes," touch him lightly near the point of the shoulder with your rod. al the same time that you ask him the question. This will make him instantly nod. or make a of howing motion with his head, as he gral - with his nn for your rod. This- yon arc to take for a nod, ress him and pay him from yoi : Let. ■ 'his you w^ t at every convenient opportunity, and your horse will soon nod his head by a very slight motion of your rod. Soon you carj substitute the right thumb for the rod, and he will answer any question that those standing by may ask, merely by a slight touch of the thumb, or perhaps the motion of the hand may be sufficient to make him say "yes," or nod. This simple trick is . q taught the horse, and tends - nuch, if not more than any other one trick, to make the horse appear intelligent. When you can make your horse (by some le signal that you can adopt ) answer promptly any question put to him, you have added to his value ten times the amount paid for this book. CHAP T E II XXIV TRICK 18th— TO SAY NO. To teach your horse to say "no," or shake his head when you wish him to say no, you are to stand on the left side of him, ask him some simple question, as, for instance, -'Charlie, do you like straw ?" or, "Kitty, do you know that man ?" and at the same instant that you ask the question, give his neck a strong grip or squeeze just back of the ears. This will cause him to shake his head, (perhaps rather awkwardly at first,) but you will take it for a "'no," and caress and pay him well. Re- peat this at every convenient opportunity, and your horse will soon shake his head quite naturally by asking him some ques- tion and giving his neck a very slight squeeze, or perhaps b}' merely laying the hand back of the ears. When yoar will shake his head by your placing your hand directly behind the ears, take hold of his neck a little farther back, and contin- ue removing the hand farther, until lie will answer questions by being merely touched upon the back. You can now, while standing beside your horse, throw your arm on his back while he is being questioned (if you should want him to say no) give his back or withers a gentle, (and to the bystanders an imperceptible) squeeze, and your questions will be satisfac- torily answered; and those looking on will not be able to see how the feat was accomplished. You can now, if you choose, adopt some little signal, (that you and }^our horse will under- stand,) and your horse by promptly answering all questions addressed him, will appear almost to posse?-' reason. CHAPTER XXV. TRICK L9ih—T0 WALTZ. After your horse has been taught to "circle around.' - you may easily teach him to waltz. To do this, it is necessary that you take him into your training yard. It would indeed be im- possible to teach him in any other situation. You will com- mence by taking him into his yard and removing his bridle or making it fast to his surcingle. Now, with your long bow whip in your hand, start him on the walk around the yard. When he has gone some half way tell him to '''turn the other way," and as soon as he has got fairly turned, call upon him to turn the other way. This will send him again the way he first started and makes one of the "tarns" in waltzing. Repeat this several times each day, raak- I tim walk around his yard, perhaps at first making only one such turn in going around, then two, then three, until he makes as many turns as you wish. . At first let him "walk the figure," then trot, and veiy soon he will take a slow gallop around his . and make the necessary turns. This trick is very soon :Ut the horse, but it requires much time and practice before he will waltz with ease. But time and patience will overcome every obstacle, and soon by having proper music, you can so regulate his speed and motion, that he will waltz around his yard and "'keep step with the music"'* with as much ease and grace as many of our country gentlemen. In learning the horse to make his turns in waltzing, you \. qa to obey the whip, instead of the voice. Stop him with your whip by stepping a little forward and holding your whip before him, then turn him with your whip, and send him again with your whip, and by using a very little ingenuity .a the motion of the whip, he can soon be taught to make all the turns in waltzing. This is a splendid trick when well acted, and the horse being t great "lover of music," soon learns to "keep step" and be- comes as much excited in the dance as many young men. This is the last trick in this class. In this class of tricks, the horse does not use his mouth in any instance, but in the following ones he will make use of his mouth in all or most of them. CHAPTER XXV TRICK 20iiT— TO PICK UP THINGS To teach the horse to pick up things with his mouth is tin first trick in this class. This trick is the foundation, the start- ing point, for all those which follow. Without teaching the horse this one trick, it would be impossible to teach him even one of the following tricks. But teach him this one, and all the others follow naturally, each one made easier by the one pre- ceding it. In teaching your horse this trick, it will often be necessary, (if he should be in any way inclined to be vicious,) first to make him fast to his manger with his halter, if not yov can allow him to stand without tying. Then place yourself on the near side of your horse, with your rod in the right hand, and some article that you wish him to pick up (an old ha1 cap for instance) in your left. With the point of your rod now prick or touch him just back of the shoulder, until he becomes really angry and will try to bite or get hold of your rod. Then by holding the old hat near to, or over the place indicated, he will as he becomes angry and while endeavoring to get hold of your rod, seize the hat with his mouth. As soon as the horse takes hold of the hat, you must let go of it and allow him to take it. Stop now and caress him and talk to him. When you have become friends again repeat it in the same way. Th moment he seizes the old hat let go of it, and caress him. When your horse will readily seize the hat in this situation yon can commence holding it in different places. Hold it for in- stance some six or eight inches from his shoulder, then a little farther off. until he will pick it up if thrown upon the ground. You will now throw it on the ground or in his manger and call upon him to pick up your hat, or any other article that you may have substituted, and if necessary touch him with your rod, or perhaps by this time a touch of the thumb or a motion of the hand will be sufficient. When your horse will readily pick up any article that you may call upon him to, you will not regret the little time and trouble spent in teaching him. CHAPTER XXVII. TRICK 21 st— TO HOLD THINGS After your horse has been taught to "pick up things,*' you can very readily teach him to hold them, after he has taken them up. In teaching your horse to '-pick up things,*' you re- warded him for merely picking them up. That was all you asked of him at that time. But now you wish to teach him to hold it in his mouth after he has picked it up. We may as well take the "same old hat" in this case as before. Now. when you call upon him to "pick up this hat," he will take it up, but drop ; t again,, immediately. You will now call on him the moment iha T he picks it up to "hold it," and continue making him pick it up, and calling on him to hold it, until he will hold it suffi- ciently long for you to take it from him, and then you will stop, take the hat from him, and reward him with a gentle pat or a few kernels from your pocket. Repeat this often, until he not only pick up the hat, but hold it, and as he learns that . 'II receive no reward unless he holds the hat until you take it from him, he will soon pick it up and then by actions ask you tat he may receive the reward in store for obedi- You will require him to hold it a lit! . every clay, un- til he will pick it up and hold it any length of time, or even I while holding it. Y now. substi- tute other :aings in place of the hat, a mitten, basket, whip, or any article you may choose. This is a very nice little trick for any young horse to under- stand, and after your horse will pick up different things, hold them, and carry them around, you can accustom him to per- form many of the tricks already taught, such as jumping the whip, jumping through the hoop, while holding different arti- cles in his mouth. CHAPTER XXVIII. OK li'-'xo— TO CARRY AND FETCH THINGS. After you have taught the horse to pick up and hold differ- ent articles, you will next commence teaching him to go to dif- ferent parts of his yard and fetch things, and then carry them. away. This is very easily accomplished by taking the same ••old hat,"' or some other article, and first throwing it down be- fore him, and then calling on him to "take it up." This he will very readily do, for which you will reward him. Then throw the hat off some two or three feet, and call on him to "fetch your hat,"' and if necessary threaten or touch him with your rod. Repeat, this quite often, throwing the hat a little farther off . v time until he will fetch it from any part of the yard. When he will fetch different articles from any part of the yard, van commence teaching him to pick up different articles md carry them away. You can take the same "old hat'' and throw it on the ground, and then call upon him to "pick it up," and when he has done so you will with your whip send or guide him to your table, and then stop him until lie drops it, and make him stand in such a position that when he drops it it will fall upon the table. Now call on him to "come to you." Reward him with a gentle pat, or some soothing words, and then repeat it as before until he will pick up or take any arti- cle you may wish, and by pointing with your whip send him to the table, and there leave it as readily as a child. In the same way you can send him to any particular spot or place by merely pointing in that direction with your rod or whip. CHAPTER XXIX. . 2 -TO rAKE OFF CAP. COAT AX:» MTITENS To teach the horse to take off cap, coat and mittens, and car- ry them away when ordered, and bring them all back tu you again, it is necessary to take him into your training yard, or some other suitable place. You will commence in the firsl place to teach him to take oft' your hat. and then carry it away. This you will do by taking the '-'same old hat." first throw it on the ground and then call on him to get it, or pick it up, and when he has picked it up. - you will send or direct him with your whip to carry it to the table, and make him stand in such a position that when he drops it. it will fall on the table. Now call upon him to come to you again, and you will caress and rewavd him. Repeat this often. Then make him take it iron. your hands, and finally from your head. When he will readily, place some large mitten on your hand, and then call on him to take it off. When he makes the attempt, you can shut up your hand within the mitten and allow him to take hold with his teeth and pull it off your hand. Now send him, as before directed, to the table. After giving him some little practice in taking oft' and carrying away your hat, cap or mittens, yot can teach him to take off your coat. You will provide your- self with some old coat, have it quite Large for you. and let the sleeves come well down over the hands. First let him take it from your hands and carry it awaj Next throw it over the shoulders, and then call on him to take oft' your coat. You can now put it on and when he reaches out to take hold of it you can hold out your arm and then draw the arm back into the sleeve a lit ;>ehis teeth, at the same time it will give him a good opportunity to g I hold. Xow as he pulls to get the coat you can turn yourself around and carefully draw your other arm out. and your coat is oft'. Send him away as before directed. When he will take off your cap, coat and mittens, and carry them away, you can send him to the table where your things are deposited, and then call on him to bring them to you. This iie will do veiy readily, and you must not fail to reward him with a friendlv pat or a kind word, when he obe; - CHAPTER XXX. TR10K 24th— TO UNBUCKLE SADDLE GIRTH AND TAKE OFF SADDLE. To teach the horse to unbuckle his saddle girth and take ofi his saddle, you will first provide yourself with any common saddle. Place on the end of the saddle girth a very large, heavy buckle; cut away the leather around the tongue so that it will play quite loosely. Next splice down the strap that goes into this buckle, so as to bring the buckle low down, a lit- tle below the saddle skirt. Make the holes for receiving the buckle tongue very large, and have this strap when the girth is buckled up pass through the buckle some six or eight inches. You will now place the saddle on his back and buckle up the girth quite loosely. Place yourself on the near side of your horse, with your right hand hold of the skirt of his saddle, and call on him to "take off his saddle," while with the rod in your left hand you touch or prick him just behind the shoulder. This he will take as a hint to ''pick up something/' and having his attention drawn towards his shoulder by the rod, he will see, or you will call his attention to, this strap, when he will readily seize hold of it with his mouth, and as he will pull to the -trap, the buckle being quite low, as he pulls he will rather pull up ; this will cause the buckle tongue to drop out of the hole, so that when he lets go the strap the weight of the girth with the buckle will cause the buckle to slip ofi* the strap, and your girth is unbuckled. Now caress and reward him with .i gentle pat, or a few kernels from your pocket. Repeat this quite often, gradually changing the buckle for one of a smaller size, and likewise gradually raise the buckle up. until you can use a common buckle, and have it in the proper place. When your horse will unbuckle the saddle girth, you can teach him to take off his saddle. This you will do by first placing the -addle lightly on his back and then call on him to ••'take off his saddle ; ; ' and at the same time touch him with your rod. He will now reach for the saddle, and when he takes hold you can assist him by gently pulling it off his back. Repeat this a very few times and he will soon unbuckle the girth, and then take hold of the saddle and pull it off, and then you can direct him, as in trick No. 22, to carry it away. CHAPTER XXXI. TRICK 25th— TO OPEN A.NI SffUl TiiK DO In teaching your horse to "open and shut the door/' you can use the door of your yard, or any other common door. Place on this door a common hasp and staple, as you would have them made for a padlock, but instead of using a padlock, use a wooden pin. Have it rather short and fit it quite loosely. Fasten a strap to the head of this pin some six or eight inches long, and another to your door to serve as a handle for pulling the door open. Now call upon your horse to open the door, and send him with your whip, as directed in a former trick, to the door, and then with your rod or whip call his atten- tion to the strap attached to the pin. He will take hold of it, and as he attempts to fetch it away he will pull it out of the staple and your door is unfastened. For this you will suitably reward him; and then call upon him again and send him as before directed to "open the door,'' You will this time call his attention to the strap fastened to the door, which he will readily seize and when he attempts to bring it away as before he will pull the door open. Eepeat this at every convenient opportunity, and your horse will soon, when called upon to "open the door," walk up to it, pull out the pin, and then seize the other strap and pull it open. You will teach the horse to shut the door by placing him at a proper distance behind the door, and then call upon him to shut the door, but at the same time direct him to strike the door with his fore foot, as directed in a former trick, until he sends the door together or shuts it. By repeating this quite often, your horse will soon learn in shutting the door that he can ac- complish it much more easily by walking against it with his shoulders. This is not a difficult trick to teach, and whenyour horse will walk up to the door and gently rap on it with his foot, then pull out the pin, pull the door open, walk in, turn around, and close the door behind, his manners will appear much more cultivated than mauv of our country gentlemen. CHAPTER XX X I I . TRICK L'Gtii— TO PUMP WATEB To teach the horse to pump water from a well, first a temporary pump that will work very easy, and place it in any convenient place. If in your yard, place it against the as not to be in the way while exercising vour horse. Cover the handle with cloth, or some soft leather. You will now call your horse to pump some water ; and as lie has already b taught to take hold of different things, he will not hesitate when called upon to take hold of the handle of your pump. You will now call on him. again to pump water, and with your " rod" direct him to take hold of the handle. This he will readily do ; as soon as he grasps the pump handle, you will again i all on him to pump, but at the same instant give him a hint with your " rod" in the breast to make a bow. "While he is holding I pump handle in his mouth, you will compel] him to bow two or three times, and then stop, caress and reward him. Repeat this at every convenient opportunity, and your ho - will soon when called upon to pump water, walk up to the pump, Beize the handle in his mouth, and then by repeating those bowing motions, pump almost as naturally as a person. Soon you can take him to any common easy working pump, and place a pail under the spout, and your horse will take hold of the handle and pump the pail full of water. As a general thing the handle should be covered with cloth or some soft leather, so as not to injure his mouth or teeth. This is a beautiful trick, and after one has seen it executed the story once told oi horse that when dry would go to the pump and fill the trough with water, will not seem as fabulfitos as it was once considered and " the truth will look eve:: stranger thin fiction.'" CHAPTER XXXIII. K 27th— TO FIRE OFF A PISTOL. To teach a horse to fire off a pistol, you will place a block on your table, and then make your pistol fast to the top of this block, by means of proper straps ; then attach a small cord to the trigger, and let it hang over the edge of your table, with a large tassel at the end. X 1 ext put on your pistol a percussion cap, and call on your horse to fire off the pistol ; and at the same time direct him to take hold of this tassel. This he will readily do, but the moment he gives the tassel the slightest pull " pop goes the weasel/*' Repeat this often, and gradually idd a little powder, until when your horse when called on to firo off the pistol will walk up to the table, seize the tassel, and fire off the pistol when loaded with a full charge. You can now for a change, place the pistol on some high post, or on the top of your fence, and teach him to rear up, place his fore feet on your table, and then reach up and take hold of a tassel proper- ly attached and fire off* the pistol, or instead of making your pistol fast to your table or post, you can hold it in your hand with a suitable string and tassel attached to the trigger, and then when called upon to " lire off the pistol," he will walk up to you, seize the tassel in his teeth, and fire off' the pistol, and will often make quite a good shot at a target, placed on the op- posite side of his yard (provided that you hold the pistol in a proper position.) This is a very simple trick to teach the horse, but often affords a fund of amusement. In teaching the horse these different tricks, you should al- ways speak to him in a pleasant voice. Tell him what you want, by using the same language in connection with the same re- quirements. He soon learns to distinguish, what you mean and understands what is wanting when you call on him to "lie down," "sit up," "pump water," or "fire off a pistol," as readily as the ox understands what is required of him when he hears you say haw. gee, or whoa. CHAPTER XXXIV TRICK 28th— T SDH . ■ . ■ To teach the horse to ring the bell, take some small dinner bell and flatten the handle, and then cover it with several thick- nesses of cloth or leather, so that your horse can conveniently hold it in his mouth, and then call on him to "ring the bell," and at the same time direct him to take hold of the handle, and now by causing him to make quite a number of bows in quick succession, he will ring the bell very naturally ; or you can .have your bell rigged in a suitable frame, as you see them on cars and boats, and then by placing them on your table or yard fence, with a cord and string properly attached, as directed for firing off the pistol, you can send your horse to ring the bell, and when he has got a firm hold of this cord, you will cause him to make a number of bows, as directed above, and ho will ring the bell with ease. By repeating this at every opportuni- ty, your horse will soon, when called upon to ring the bell, walk up to the table, pick up the bell, and ring it with all the ease of a country porter. In teaching the horse the tricks in this class, it is not neces- sary to reward every time he obeys, as he is now sufficiently trained to be compelled to obey, which will be more pleasant, but you must not forget to treat him with the utmost kindness, and often reward him with an encouraging pat or soothing word. CHAPTER XXXV. TRICE 29th— TO FIND HIDDEN THINGS. Take your horse into your training yard, or some other large room or yard. You will now take " the same old hat " and throw it off some little distance, and call on him to find your hat, and send him for it as directed in a former trick. When he fetches the hat, you will reward him from your pocket. Now throw the hat a little farther away, and send him as be- fore, then farther, and continue throwing it a little farther each time. Then throw it in different directions; first one way and then the other, which will often require him to walk around his yard in different directions to find them. In this way he will acquire a habit of looking and searching for hidden things until he finds them, and you must be careful to reward him from your pocket when he brings the hat. When your horse will search, find and bring your hat from any part of the yard, you can commence teaching him to find this " same old hat " when secreted or hid. To do this, you will now cover his eyes with your hands, while some one throws the hat as before, and then remove your hands and call on him to " find your hat ;" this he will soon do. Now while you cover his eyes, let some one, after throwing the hat some little distance, cover it slight- ly with straw, not so but that he will readily see it, then call on him, as before, to find it. Gradually add more straw or some other litter until it is entirely concealed from his sight, and your horse will still find it. It is not necessary that your horse should always see the hat to find it. The sense of smell in the horse is so remarkably acute, that he can recognize the presence of his master or any article that he has been accus- tomed to smell, at a great distance. For him to find and un- cover things that are hid, it may often be necessary that he should paw or use his feet. This he will almost instinctively do. If not, you can soon teach him, by "standing/' as in a former trick, and making him strike his paw, as in knocking on the door, until he brings it to view. CHAPTER XXXVI TRICK 30th— to tell his a B Os. Iu teaching- the horse his A B Cs, you will place the. right hand end of the table, as you stand facing the steps, against some wall or fence, while you stand on the near side of your horse, with your horse between you and the fence. Xext provide yourself with the alphabet printed in large letters on cards. The best plan for fur- nishing yourself with those cards, would be to take a pack of com- mon playing cards and print the different. letters of the alphabet on the back of them. Xow place on your table some three or four of those cards, A B C, for instance. Place them equi-distant from each other, bend them slightly, so that when you spread them out on your table they will roll up a little, which will enable your horse easily to take them up with his mouth. Xo.v you will call, on your horse for some one of those cards, B, for instance, and at the same time give him to understand, by means of your rod, that he must pick up some one of those letters. If he should pick up the letter B, or the one called for, all right, and you will make him reach over and drop it upon the other side of the table; but if he should attempt to pick up the C or A, you will bring your rod for- ward from the back of his shoulder to the card, and prevent his taking it up. Repeat this exercise over and over again at each training, until he will readily select the letter called for. The horse very soon learns to pick up the cards spread out before him, by merely speaking to him, or by some sly motion you may adopt, and when he picks up the wrong letter, (as he often does), he will soon learn to drop it the moment he sees your motion to bring the rod forward. It is generally sufficient, after a short time, to stand on the near side of your horse, holding your rod before his breast, and then, as you are teaching him, if you call for any letter and he does not readily obey you, you can carry your rod back and touch him back of the shoulder, or if he attempts to pick up the wrong- one, you can soon teach him to pass it over, or drop it if he has picked it up, by pressing your rod hard against his breast, as you would in trying to make him back up. In this way any one standing by cannot tell by what means you instruct him to select his cards. Note.— The above trick, besides man j lat follow, a same gt and eould have been arranged mder pne genera head basfoj th iene toftb ■■ - ■■ them a; lucateo - ■- ' . insert them undi ■ separal beads CHAPTER XXXVII. TRICK 31st— TO COUNT OR SELECT DIFFERENT NUMBERS. Place yourself, your table and horse, in the same position as directed in trick No. 30. Take a pack of common playing cards, and prepare them for use, by printing the nine different figures on the back of them. Let your figures be large. Now place your cards in a pack, and bend them slightly, so that when yon spread them out on your table they will roll up a little. Put some five or six of these cards on your table, and then let s »me person present call for one of those numbers, and you will direct your horse to pick up one of them. If lie selects the one called for, " all good," and you will make him reach over and drop it on the other side of your table, or let the one who called for it take it from his mouth ; but if he attempts to pick up the wrong number, you will make him pass over it or drop it as di- rected in the preceding trick. Repeat this often, and your horse will soon select the numbers called for, and either reach them to the person questioning him, or drop them on the opposite side of the table, with as much facility as a child. While training your horse in the tricks where you use cards, it is not necessary that you feed him ; he now understands more or less what you say, and all he needs is to be encouraged now and then with a friendly pat, or kind word. CHAPTER XXXVIII. TRICK 32nd— TO SPELL. In teaching your horse to spell, you will use the same cards, ud your horse will take the same position around the table as 1 trick No. 30. Take some twelve or fourteen of those cards, ad bend them slightly, and then spread them on the steps, iree or four on each step, Now let some person present put ut any simple word, such as cat, or dog. or any word that the orse can spell with the letters on the table. Supjpose (to il- tstrate) that he is asked to spell the word cat. You will now ive your horse to understand (by means of your rod or other- rise) that you want him to select one of those cards. He will- ommence to pick up the card, and you will stop him with your od whenever he attempts to, or picks up the wrong card, as irected in trick No. 80. In this way you will make him first elect the C and reach it over and drop it upon the opposite ide of the table, then the A, and then the T. In this way he nil spell any word put out to him, by selecting the letters in rder, as they come in the word, and dropping them on the oth: r side of the table. Repeat this exercise often, and your horse vill soon walk up to the table, and select the cards, to spell any lommon word that may be pronounced to him, provided always lis master is capable of spelling the same word. CHAPTER XXXIX. TRICK 33rd— TO READ. horse oan be tang bd words or sentences, by the same rules nsed in teaching ■ or spell. i yonr table, yourself, and horse in the same position as directed in trick No. 30. Take enough cards to include the i" twenty-six letters, and bend them up as before directed* spread them out on your steps. Let some person hand in a written or printed on a slip of paper This you will place • horse on the table, and then call upon him to read it. This he will now very readily do, with your assistance, by se- lecting from the letters placed before him on the table. Sup- • (to illustrate) some person hands in a slip of paper with , Doe written upon it. Your horse will spell it by first pick- ip the J then the O then the II and so on, until he would spell out the entire word, which, when placed in the order they were picked up would spell J-o-h-n D-o-e. In the same manner he would read any word or sentence handed in, or even read from a book, but rather slowly. And if you should not succeed in making your horse talk like " Baalam's Ass," he would be able to read the '"hand writing on the wall/' CHAPTER XL TRICK 34th— TO ANSWER ANY QUESTION IN THE MULTIPLI- CATION TABLE. To teach the horse to answer questions in the multiplication table, you will take the same cards used in counting, bend and spread them on the table in the same manner, and have ; table, your horse, and yourself, in the same relative position. The same general rules will apply in all the different tricks where we use the cards, but for the benefit of those who arc expecting thoroughly to educate their horse, or think of travel- ing with him as a trained horse, I shall, under all those tricks give a few examples to illustrate the management of th All being ready, let some person ask one of the multitude of questions in that table ; for instance, two times four many ? or eight times twelve are how many ? you can ask the horse any amount of questions may think proper, and with your rod or other rect him how to select the answers ; always making liim drop thera on the opposite side of the table. Where one figure will not answer the question, as in eight times twelve, you will in- struct him to first take up the card with the figure I m il pass it over, then the G, which when put together in the ordel selected will make 96. In this way he will be able to answer any question in the multiplication tabl . This is a very nice little trick, and affords qnite a fund of amusement, besides making your horse appear almost a Zerah Colburn in mathematics. CHAPTER X L I . TEI«K 35th— TO ADD, SUBTRACT, MULTIPLY AND DIVIDE. In teaching the horse to add, subtract, multiply and divide, you will use the cards with the figures on them, place your ta- ble, and take the same position around it as recommended in (rick 30; bend up your cards and spread them out on your steps. Now let some person present ask some simple question in any of the ground rules of arithmetic ; for instance : 2 and 4 are how many? 3 from eight leaves how many? Twice 2 are how many ? Divide 6 pennies equally among 3 boys how many will each receive ? Here, you will discover, is a question in each of the four rules, which your horse can readily answer with the numbers before him. To illustrate, let some person present ask a question in this way : Charlie, or Kitty, add 2 and 6 together, how many will it make ? Now, you will give hirn to understand he must pick up one of the numbers, and at the same time direct him (as in trick 30) to pick up the 8. which answers the question. You can also vary the questions iu an endless variety of ways, to suit your fancy. Where one number will not answer the question, you will direct him i p pick up two or more, in the order they should stand to make the answer, as in trick 31 ; or you can provide yourself with quite a number of cards with figures from 1 up to to 20 or more. This trick, when well performed, is a splendid thing, and when your horse will, from some secret signal, walk up to the table, and promptly select from the cards spread out be- fore him, a correct answer to the different problems proposed, lie is certainly entitled to the name cf a " learned horse." CHAPTER XLII. TRICK 36th— TO BRING THE CARDS CALLED FOR. Take a pack of common playing cards, bend them slightly, and then spread them, face side up, on your table. Perhaps the better way, at first, would be to spread out only 8 or 10 at one time. Place them on your steps in rows, equi-distant from each other. Now let some person present call for any one of those cards before him. For example, some person present will say, "Charlie, or Kitty," (or whatever his name may be), "give me the Queen of Diamonds," You will now call on your horse to pick up the Queen of Diamonds, at the same time give him a touch with the point of your rod, or perhaps your thumb, to pick up one of the cards before him. If he should select the Queen, all right; and you will perhaps pat him on the neck, or caress him until some other card is called for. If, instead of selecting the Queen, he should make a pass to pick up some other card, you will stop him, as directed in trick 30, or you can adopt any other signal or watchword to prevent his pick- ing up the wrong card. Different teachers can adopt different signals, as their fancy may direct. The main object is to have whatever signal you adopt, understood between you and your horse, and unknown to spectators. Repeat this exercise at every training and your horse will soon learn to select and pass over aDy card that may be called for. Now, place at short distances around the yard or room, all the different cards in the pack, and then, as above, let any one call for one of those cards, and you will start your horse on the walk around the yard and whenever he comes opposite the card called for, you will, by some signal you may adopt, cause him to stop, pick up the card, and bring it to you; or you may send him, as direct- ed in trick 22, to the person calling for it. CHAPTER X L I I I . TRICK 37th— TO TELL HIS AGE, DAYS IN THE WEEK. MONTHS IX THE YEAR, &c. In teaching the horse to tell his age, days in the week, months in the year, When you are sober, 1 very well know. You feed very lavish, and ride very slow. But when you are boozy, I pay for if all, For you ride like the d — 1, and teed none at all." In breaking and curing the vicious horse of his acquired habits, you will strive to undo what others have done. The passions, like the muscles, grow strong, or weak, as they ar< called into action. That being the case, we should strive to cultivate his noble nature, and let those useless and acquired passions lie dormant, and they, like the muscles, when not ex- ercised, will soon become weak and powerless. Always treat the vicious horse with the utmost kindness ; never use the whip unless to increase his speed ; gain his friendship by ca- resses, and then you can mould or shape him as you may choose. The horse that loves you, will not kick, bite, or run away with you. In breaking and curing the vicious horse, re- member, "the merciful man is merciful to his beast." The poor, abused horse, often deserves our sincere sympathy. He is not the horse now he was by nature, he is the animal of our creation, and is very often a much better animal than we could reasonably expect, when exposed almost constantly to this se- ries of evils. Instead of wondering why the horse, at the present time, is so vicious, we should wonder why they are as good as We find them. By kindness, applied with judgment, we can cure the worth- less horse and make him again valuable, and my object in lay. ing down the directions for the management of the vicious horse, is to teach the horseman how to apply them to all those different and varied cases that he will constantly meet while engaged in the management of the horse. For the convenience of reference I have divided those vices into four different class- es : balking, rearing, kicking and running. Prof. "W. S. Clark, of Amherst, Mass., (a gentleman who has aided me materially in getting up this new and rather novel work, for which I return him my sincere thanks,) in his able 80 report on horses, before the Hampshire, Franklin and Ham- den Agricultural Society for the year 1859, makes the follow- ing remarks : ••Finally, we must have better educated horses. It is no lon- ger necessary, and therefore it is wrong, to use vicious, un- manageable, dangerous animals, since it has been abundantly demonstrated that every young horse may be so perfectly sub- dued and so nicely trained as to perform, up to the extent of his ability, exactly what an intelligent and reasonable driver may demand. How greatly would the sum total of human hap- piness and comfort, to say nothing of safety, be increased, if our horses were only free from those troublesome and often alarming tricks, which are the result either of their ignorance or their insubordination I" ••One horse is almost perfect, but he pulls away when hitched with anything less than a cable ; — another is very smart and kind, while you have hold of him, but if left for a moment to himself, springs into a gallop and leaves you alone ; — this horse runs away if his tail gets over the line, which it is very apt to do, and that one, if anything touches his hind legs ; — here is one of the very best, but goes when and where he chooses ; and closely related to him is another, all right, if you can only manage to tumble into the wagon before he starts; — this one kicks, that one bites, and another strikes with his fore feet. One is rendered unmanageable by the sound of a gun, or steam whistle, or band of music, and another is terribly afraid of a lo- comotive, or train of cars, or even of a railroad track: some will shy at a stone, or a stump, or a white cow, or a bit of pa- per, and others at a stage-coach, or a loaded wagon, or a wheel- barrow; — one fears a robe, another an umbrella, and another his own shadow, and so on and so forth, and yet almost every horse may be broken, in one month's time, so as to be free from every one of them, and that without any more use of the whip than is barely necessary to command his attention." CHAPTER X L V 1 1 1 . BALKING IX HARNESS. 'Oh! if I had a donkey what wouldn't go, Do you suppose I would wallop him? Oh, no, no, no! I would coax him, I would flatter him, I would give him some corn, And put him in the barn where he would keep warm. ' ' Horses know nothing about balking, until brought into it by improper management. When the horse balks in harness, it is not from any unwillingness to perform his duty, but from some confusion, excitement, or mismanagement. They are willing and anxious to go, but they are too eager, or perhaps too am- bitious, to take that steady push against the collar necessary to move a load, and for their well-intended short pulls, or jerks, at the load, receive only the curses and lash of the driver, all of which would prevent their acting with a steady, determind purpose, and the result must always be, under this course oi treatment, the horse, after making numberless, well-intended efforts to move the load, at last becomes discouraged, angry, and refuses to go — balks. In breaking or curing the balky horse, first place on him a good strong harness, one if possible that he has been accustomed to wear, or one of the same style and finish, so as not to irritate him with any new or strange pressure. Provide yourself with a few handfuls of corn, or some other grain that he will relish. Ascertain, if you should not already know, under what peculiar circumstances he balks. By knowing this you can very often guard against the evil, and perhaps prevent the recurrence of the exciting cause. After you have placed the harness on him, allow him to stand some little time, or until he has had time to examine it, and be- come somewhat used to any new or strange pressure ; then take down your reins and commence driving him around. If he should appear in any way restless, or inclined to stop, stop 8'j and caress him, and perhaps give. him a few kernels from your pocket. It is better to stop the balky horse before he stops of his own accord,, if possible. The horse never stops without giving or throwing out some signal. Different horses have dif- ferent signals by which they give the watchful driver to under- stand they will not proceed much farther. Many horses, before they stop, look back, others drop their tails, while others perhaps, begin to step short, and gradually settle back into their breeching. A.11 horses, by some one of the above signals, or in some other way, give plain and timely warning of the ap- proaching trouble. Now, by closely watching every motion of the horse, we can always ascertain in what that particular signal or warning consists, and by understanding this peculiar characteristic of the horse, we can always foresee the threaten- ing evils, and either prevent it entirely, or be prepared to meet it with less danger to ourselves and carriages than we other- wise would. Drive him around in this way. stopping him often, while you caress and talk to him. In talking to the horse, always speak to him in a low, gentle voice, call him by his name when you address him. Whenever you wish your horse to start, stop, or perform any other action, first call him by his name, and then tell him with a pleasant voice what you want. When you can drive him around, turn him this and that way, stop, and start him when you please, there would be no danger in placing him before a good, strong sulky. First, let him ex- amine it ; work slowly, take your own time. If your horse should happen to be one of those confirmed balkers, better set apart some one day for breaking him, and have no other busi- ness on hand. After you have placed him before the sulkey, lead him around for a short time, and if he appears quiet, you may take down the reins, and gradually work back, behind the sulky. Now, if you can drive him around in this way, stop, start, and turn him any way you choose, you can, while he is walking along, gently draw yourself up into the sulkey seat, and drive him around. Watch him closely, whenever you dis- cover any of his signals, talk to him, and if necessary stop him, caress him, and if he again appears quiet, drive him along. Sometimes it may be necessary to dismount, walk around him, and perhaps feed him from your pocket. By stopping him be - S3 fore he stops; of his own accord, we can often succeed in break- ing up the habit of stopping. If he should stop (as they often will) and refuse to go, don't strike or urge him: lay down your reins, and allow him to stand ; loosen his check, and bring the collar forward. The horse, whenever he balks or refuses to go, if allowed to stand a very short time, without being whipped or urged to go, will, invariably, begin to grow restless and uneasy, and perhaps commence to paw, look around, or in some way give us to understand he is now willing to go again ; and will very soon, if not disturbed, make the effort to go. This is another peculiar and never-failing characteristic of the horse, and any man, in the least conversant with the nature of the horse, must have noticed this singular trait. Now, the horse man, by understanding this never-failing characteristic of the horse, can always succeed in getting him along without resort- ing to the whip, or any other harsh means. All he has to do, is to wait patiently until the "spirit moves," or he is disposed to proceed of his own accord, and then be ready to "jump aboard and travel on." We can often succeed, by caresses and otherwise, in making him start much sooner than he otherwise would. All that is necessary in breaking the balky horse, is to treat him with the utmost kindness, watch him closely, whenever you think he is about to stop, guard against it, and if possible, prevent it, or if he should stop, wait patiently until he is again ready to go, and then be prepared to act with him. By following these directions you will have no trouble in mak- ing the most confirmed balker again true and valuable. When you can manage him without any difficulty before the sulky, you can place him before any other light carriage, and gradu- ally add to his load, until he will haul any reasonable load required oi him. Gain his love by kindness. Cultivate his noble nature, and let those old and useless passions lie dormant and inactive, until they will become weak and powerless. CHAPTER XLIX KICKING IX HARNESS. Kicking in the harness is one of those dangerous but com- mon vices or habits that our horses soon acquire by improper management while breaking, or, as is often the case, the horse remains gentle and kind for several months, perhaps years, and then suddenly acquires the habit of kicking, by having some part of an old rotten or weak harness give way, and allow the carriage to come in contact with his heels. Many of those "confirmed kickers' 1 had better be disposed of at once, at any price, or even destroyed, rather than attempt to break them, as many of them would be almost worthless, even if you could succeed in breaking them. But again, there are some few that are not only beautiful, but would be really valuable animals, if you could succeed in curing them of this one vice, and for the cure of such the following directions are intended. In the management of the kicking horse, always place on him a good, strong harness, one that he has been in the habit of wearing, if possible, for the irritation of different straps from those he has been in the constant habit of feeling, is sufficient excuse with many horses to demolish everything behind them if possi- ble. Whenever you place him before any carriage, let it be a strong one, the sulky is always to be preferred. Let the shafts be long, strong and wide. In the first place, ascertain, if you should not already know, under what particular circumstances he manifests this vice : what peculiar irritation is necessary to make him kick, and lastly, how he kicks. Now if you can as- certain under what circumstances he kicks, you can often avoid or remove the cause, and by knowing the particular irri- tation necessary, (perhaps getting the line under his tail.) you 85 can guard against or remove the exciting cause, and then b\ knowing beforehand how he kicks, you will be the better pre- pared to meet the danger. The kicking horse, like the balky horse, never kicks without giving us some never failing signal of his intentions. Different horses have different hints or sig- nals by which they give the intelligent horseman timely warn- ing. Some horses, before they kick, shake their heads, or throw back their ears, while others, perhaps, give the tail a sort of twist or flirt, or cling it tightly down. These charac- teristic signals of the horse, are fully understood among the horses themselves. Watch, for instance, a number of young- horses while in the field at play, or even in anger. You will notice the fact, that the horse, before he kicks, gives his play- mate, or perhaps rival, a peculiar hint or signal, which he un- derstands and immediately acts upon by endeavoring to get out of the way if possible, or prepare himself to receive the blow from his opponent's heels. Now the horseman, by un- derstanding this never failing trait of the horse, can turn it to good account in the management of the horse. In breaking the kicking horse, place him before a strong sul- ky : treat him with the utmost kindness ; first gain, if possible, his friendship and love by caresses, and by feeding him occa- sionally a few kernels from your pocket. Lead him around at first. Watch every motion, until you ascertain what his par- ticular signal consists in. Whenever he appears in the least excited, stop and caress him. Stop him if possible before he commences to kick, and in that way you will often succeed in breaking up the habit. When you can lead him around, stop, start, and turn him in any direction, take down your lines and drive him around. If he kicks whenever he becomes excited, watch him closely, and keep him quiet. If he kicks by getting the reins under his tail, (as many do,) you can often remedy this by docking and pricking, or by using them very carefully, and keeping the lines away from their tails for some little time, you can often break up the habit entirely ; or you can cure any young horse of kicking whenever he gets the lines under his tail, by carefully, cautiously and gradually using him to having them there. You can at first, while in his stall, place them un- der his tail, and then pull them out. Repeat this quite often, until he will care nothing about thcni, then place him before a strong sulky, and then gently at first place them under his tail. Repeat this often, or almost constantly, until he will not resent or resist their being put under his tail, either accidentally or by design. If he should kick from the irritation of some part of the harness, or from the whiffletrees striking his heels, you can in the same gradual way accustom him, if necessary, to their presence. In all your intercourse with the horse, always treat him with kindness. Never scold or fret at him ; never fetter or confine him ; give him the free use of every limb, and never use the whip unless to increase his speed. The horse is not naturally disposed to injure you ; he has contracted that vice by bad management, and really deserves our sympathy in- stead of our chastisement. The horse that is kindly treated, if he should in a thoughtless moment, and perhaps under some temporary excitement, throw out his signal, as much as to say '-'look out for your eyes," would, after taking a second sober thought, perhaps recall some one of the many kindnesses received, drop his tail, throw his ears again forward, in a pleasant manner, as much as to say, '•keep your seat, don't be frightened, for I am at the helm, please pardon my thoughtlessness. 7 ' By treating the horse according to the directions laid down in this work, you will never fail to make the worst kicker again safe, gentle and valuable. C H A P T E R L . REARING IN HARN I - - Rearing in the harness is one of those vicious habits that our young horses soon acquire, under the management of ignorant, or thoughtless drivers, especially if they happen to be those spirited, or ambitious animals, that are all life. But, unlike ma- ny other vices of the horse, it is attended with but little danger, and the horse is soon broke, or cured even in confirmed cases, if properly managed. The rearing horse, being spirited, was eager to go, and if not allowed to proceed at once, or if sharply spoken to, or the whip applied, becomes uneasy and restless, and finally if not allowed to proceed, rears up perhaps several times, or until allowed to go. The rearing horse, was perhaps, by nature, one of the best of horses, but being possessed of an eager and ner- vous disposition, could not bear restraint unless combined with kindness, and very soon by improper management contracted the disagreeable habit of rearing. The rearing horse, like the, balky or kicking horse, has his peculiar signal, by which lie gives the observing horseman timely warning of his intentions. Different horses, have different signals. Sometimes, before the horse rears, he commences to paw, snort, or shake his head, while others perhaps, toss their heads, or champ their bit, or in some peculiar way, give us never failing warning they will if not prevented rear up. Now by watching the horse closely, we can soon ascertain in what his peculiar warning consists, and either prevent it entirely, or be prepared to meet it in such a manner, as will do us the least injury. In breaking or curing the rearing horse, treat him with the utmost kindness. First,, ascertain under what circumstances lie rears, or what particular irritation is necessan r to call out their vice, and by ascertaining the cause, we can often remove it entirely, and then the effect will cease. All that is necessary generally, to cure the rearing 8S horse, is to treat him kindly, i 3 and ice.;} him quiet ; but if be should happen to be confirmed in his habit some other course must be taken. Place him before a strong sulky: let even- part of your harness be strong, and if possible, one he has been in the habit of wearing, so as not to irritate him with any new pressure. At first, it may be necessary to lead him. Stop of- 1 si . and caress him, turn him around, first this and then that way. Whenever he appears restless, caress him, and feed a few kernels from your pocket. Watch him closely until you have ascertained, in what his signal consists, and by keeping an eye on him, you can easily prevent his rearing, and in a short time break up the habit entirely. If possible stop him before he rears, strive to keep him quiet. When you can lead him around, stop, start, and turn ii: every direction without his becoming restless, or angry, take your reins and drive him for a short time until you can drive him in any direction, and then get on the sulky. Whenever be rears up (as they sometimes will) go to I i- side talk to him. call him by his name, rub his forehead, pat and caress him, and feed him Ira;, your pocket. In this way, lie will soon become attached to you. and would sooner stand by v lur side and receive cart 1 other rewards than to rear up and leav< ips his only friend behind. This vie more troublesome than dangerous, and, as is generally the case, the horse is in every other resp< i r a valuable animal: we are always anxious to rid him of this one '"besetting sin.* : as -easily accomplished. By following the simple rules here laid clown, the rearing horse soon becomes safe and valuable. CHAPTER LI. SUNNING IN HARM Running away iu harness is another of those dangerous as well as costly vices the young horse acquires by improper management. This vice, by many writers on the vices of horses, is considered incurable, when once the habit is estab- lished. But by observation, as well as experience, I have every reason to believe that this vice, as well as others of a less serious nature, can be permanently cured if treated accord- ing to the directions laid down in this work. Many of our run- away horses were for several years perfectly kind ; but by some mismanagement became not only unsafe, but dangerous. From being valuable animals, they became valueless or worth- less. Some horses acquire the habit by first being frightened ; others by being left unfastened, or not properly fastened, and allowed to break away and run ; while others run from mere ambition. The driver allows them to get so excited that when he would fain " slack their speed, 7 ' or stop them, he finds, but too late, he does not possess the neceesary strength to check them in their headlong speed, and when they are once under full motion, and no one is capable of checking their speed, then woe to the harness, carriage, and horses, to say nothing of the lives and limbs there endangered. In breaking and curing the run-away horse, treat him with all that kindness his noble nature deserves. Strive by every means in your power to gain his love and confidence; let no 90 opportunity escape to caress and flatter him. As soon as you can get the horse to love you, you have little cause to fear him, for the horse that really lcves his master, will not be very like- ly to bite, strike, kick, or run away with him, or in any way endanger his life. If, in a thoughtless moment, while overflow- ing with life and ambition, he should make the attempt, when he received the check from the bit, and heard the familiar voice of his best friend calling on him to stop, would he not be very likely to heed the voice and submit to the rein of one from whom he had been in the constant habit of receiving ca- resses and other rewards ? In driving the run-away horse, always provide yourself with a good, strong harness. Many a valuable horse has been ruined, and numberless lives lost by having some part of an old, rotten and worthless harness give way. Place in his mouth a good, strong, curb bit — one capable of controlling, or hold- ing him if necessary — and then you will be prepared, if gentle means fail, or some unavoidable accident should occur and he should attempt to run, you could teach him at once that it is " thus far and no farther." When the horse ascertains you can really hold him, he will yield to the bit, and seldom make the second attempt, and by treating the horse with great kind- ness, you soon rob him of every desire to injure you, or flee from you. While driving your horse, drive very slow. The horse never runs without first giving his attentive driver time- ly warning. Some horses, before they start to run, toss their heads, or give a peculiar snort, while others give their tail a peculiar twist. All horses, in some way give us to understand they are about to " be going,"' some hint we soon learn by watching them closely. If the horse runs whenever he be- comes excited, while driving, drive him slowly, talk to him, jail him by his name, if necessary, get down from your seat and walk around him, caress and feed him. If company should prove to be exciting, avoid it at first, and then gradually use him to company. I have never had any trouble in breaking the most confirmed run-aways. All that is necessary is kind- ness, patience, judgment and ingenuity. Ascertain, if you do not already know, under what circumstances he runs ; this is all that is generally necessary, and then bv removing the cause. 91 or guarding against it, your horse is soon broke. Ascertain as soon as possible, what his peculiar hint or signal consists in,, and then, by keeping close watch over him, you can always foresee the evil, and prevent it entirely, or be prepared to check him up, or " set him up " before it is too late. By driv- ing him slowly, and watching him closely, you will be able always to control him without his once getting the start of you. Never, trust him one moment : be always prepared to " set him up," if necessary, while you can hold a " tete-a-tete " with him, and turn the threatening storm into sunshine. By watching them closely, and not allowing them to get the advantage of us, the passion for running will gradually wear off, and those dangerous and restless passions, by not being called into action, gradually lose their power, and the once vicious, dangerous and worthless horse becomes again kind, safe and valuable. He has lost all desire to run or flee from you, and would now much sooner run to, than from you. CHAPTER L 1 1 . RULES FOE SELECTING A GOOD HORSE. "Look when a painter would surpass the life In limning out a well proportioned steed, His art with nature's workmanship at strife. As if the dead the living should exceed ; So did this horse excel a common one. In shape, in courage, color, pace and bone. Kound-hocf 'd, short-jointed., fetlocks shag and long, Broad breast, full eyes, small head, and nostrils wide. High crest, short ears, straight legs, and passing etron;. . Thin mane, thick tail, broad buttock, tender hide ; Look, what a horse should have, he did not lack. Save a proud rider on so proud a back.*' •'Sometimes he trots, as if he told the steps- With gentle majesty, and modest pridt ; Anon he rears upright, curvets and leaps, As he would say, io! thus rny strength is try'd: And thus I do to "captivate the eye Of the fair breeders that is standing by. ! William Shakspere. A.- every man is more "i less liable to be deceived and im- posed upon, by interested or dishonest horse dealers, and from ignorance of the proper shape, and qualifications necessary to constitute a good horse, are not only liable to be- deceived and disappointed, but are often swindled out of their money, I have endeavored in a brief way, to describe what I consider the dis- tinguishing characteristics of a good horse of all work, or a good business horse. The head should be rather small and lean, the forehead broad, square, and the profile straight. The jowls thin but muscular, and set well apart. The nostrils large, full and prominent, and showing a bright red membrane within. 93 The muzzle small, loan, firm and delicate. The lips close, firm and thin. The ears small, sprightly, clear, and almost transparent, they should be upright, and have a fine taper from the roots to the tips, which should be pointed and turn a little inward. The eye full, large and prominent, roving bold and eager, but mild and pleasant, the lids should be well open when at rest. The neck should be of moderate length and taper well to- wards the head, slightly curving on the top, and very slightly curved underneath. The mane rather long and thick, but not heavy. The withers high and thin. The shoulders long and oblique, thin and flat at the top, with the point low down and well forward. The back short, broad and nearly straight. The body round and deep at the shoulders. The ribs start from the back-bone in a direction nearly hori- zontal. The last should come out near the hip bone or be what we call "well ribbed up/' The flanks full and deep. The hips long, wide and muscular. The croup full, round and a little sloping. The tail full, heavy, and carried well up. The stifle wide, and the stifle joint well forward. The quarters full and plump, and the muscles of the thigh should continue plump and full well down to the hock. The limbs short. The fore-legs straight, and well-spread at the chest, and stand nearly perpendicular. The fore-arms long, wide at the top. and taper gradually to the knee, with the muscle plump and full in front. The knee wide and fiat, free from flesh, clean and compact. The cannon short, flean and free from meat. The back sinews should lie large and flinty, and stand "well oul from the bone. The legs thin, wide and sinewy. The fetlock not round, but rathe)- wi de. thicker in front than behind. The pasterns short, and slightly sloping. The hoof nearly round, open at the heel, smooth and hard, straight in front, from the hair to the toe, and not high behind. 94 Tito hair soft, short and glossj The height between 14 and 15 hands. The weight some ten or eleven hundred pounds. The gait. When travelling, his feet should be raised only enough to clear the inequalities of the ground, carried well for- ward in straight lines, and set down evenly, so that the entire sole comes upon the ground at the same time. The fore-legs should bend well at the knee, instead of the legs being raised principally by the movement of the shoulder. The hind-legs should be taken ap light and quick, and be car- ried well forward under the body, and have a peculiar, nervous, springy " pick up." The step should not be long, neither too short. Observation can alone determine when it is right. Such a horse as I have described. I feel confident, will prove admirably adapted to all ordinary kinds of service. Such a horse will be hardy, healthy and easily kept ; docile, gentle, in- telligent, always ready for use. and easily taught to perform any kind of service, or perhaps, Like Flora Temple, beat the morning wind. And leave the annals of the turf behind ; Carry like lightning the revolving wheels. And pick up miles upon her flying heels! Made up of steel and gutta-percha springs, She darts along as if she went on wings; And peerless now, compels the world perforce To own her Empress of the Trotting Course. — New Year's Address. CHAPTER LIII. RULES FOR TELLING TPIE AGE OF THE HORSE. At 1 year old, the colt has six nippers, and four grinders above and below in each jaw, At 2, The mark in central nippers will be much shorter and fainter, and all the nippers will be flat, and about this time the fifth grinder appears. At 3, The mark in the two central nippers is nearly worn out; he has now six grinders in each jaw, above and below, the first and fifth level with the others, and the next pro- truding. At 4, The central nippers will be fully developed ; the sharp edge somewhat worn off, and the mark shorter, wider and fainter. The next pair will be up, but will be small, with mark deep, and extending quite across them. The sixth grinder is level with the others, and the tushes be- gin to appear. At 5, The corner nippers are quite up, with the long deep mark irregular on the inside ; the tush is much grown, the grooves have almost or quite disappeared, and the outer surface is regularly convex. The sixth molar is quite up, and the third wanting. At <), The mark on the central nippers is worn out. The tush has attained its full growth, being nearly or quite one inch in length ; convex outward, concave neither tending to a point, and the extremity somewhat curved; the third grinder is fairly up, and all the grinders are level. The horse has now a perfect mouth. At 7, The mark is now worn out in the four central nippers. The tush is somewhat altered, it is rounded at the edge: still round without ; and beginning to get round inside. At 8, The tush is rounder in every way : the murk is gone from all the bottom nippers, and it may almost be said to bo out of the mouth, there is nothing remaining in the lower nippers to clearly show the age of the horse. At 9, The mark will be worn out from the middle nippers of the upper jaw. At 10. The mark will disappear from the next. At 11. The mark will disappear from all. Up to ten or eleven it is possible to tell the age of the horse almost to a cer- tainty : but after this period, we can only approach within a few years up to twenty or twenty-one. We now judge from the shape of the upper surface of the nip- per.-. At 8. They are ail oval, the length of the oval running across from tooth to tooth : but as the horse gets older, the teeth diminish in size. At !». The centre nippers are evidently so. At 10. The others begin to have the oval shortened. At 11. The second pair of nippers are quite rounded. At lo. The corner ones have that appearance. At 14. The faces of the central nippers become triangular. At IT. They are all so, At 19, The angles begin to wear off, but in a reversed direction, viz : from outwards, inward. A; 21, They all now wear tins form. er the horse has attained this advanced age. we can often ss very near the age of the horse by the deepening hollow over the eye. grey hairs around the head and muzzle ; thinness and hanging down of the lips ; sharpness of the withers : sink- f the back : lengthening of the quarters; and the disappear- e of windgalls. spavins, and tumors of every kind. [1 would be folly to expect perfect accuracy at this advanced if the horse, when we are bound to confess that the rules which we have already laid for determining this matter at an earlier period, although recognized however generally, and referred to in all the courts of justice, will not guide us in every is • '• ■ is •• exc< - to all rule . CHAPTER LIV. THE POOR OLD HORSE. For the benefit of those who may now be the owner of some old and worthless horse — one that on account of old age and hard service performed, is rendered almost helpless — and to rid themselves of the burden are thinking of " trading them off," or turning them out on the "common for to gnaw," instead of feeding, protecting and keeping them, after the infirmities of old age have rendered them useless, for the labor performed and good done in their youth ; a horse that has rendered his master faithful service for many a long year ; that has given his life and strength without a murmur, and not only added to his master's pleasures, but hundreds if not thousands to his coffers, I append the following beautiful lines. They not only faithfully portray the feelings and emotions that many an old horse must necessarily have, (if they are really possessed of feelings, which many men appear to doubt, judging from the cruel and inhuman manner in which they treat them), but also strikingly portray the situation and fortunes of many of the human family, that have spent not only their youth, life and strength, but substance, for the benefit of their children, but now, like the old horse, when no longer a profitable slave, are turned out to endure the " cold winds, the hail, rain and snow." THE LAMENTATION OP A IVOR OLD HORSE. My, . ~ But now 1' :n , - •■ Poor old hors My ktv - - 5 5 5 g - - Ho MktS ro •..'. -.v. - straw. B, kill hiir . 5 huUtSlliail tlwj - • .ui so mar O\o- - - - - - . s - I he huiv.au racv. trsft, let h r - When Nat s But now l | Poor old borst let him die. NOTE TO T1IK PUBLIC. ii why those " numerous engravings" do not appear in this book, as many of in\ friends ha I reason to expect, is this: I, like many others, placed confidence in m •• sup n sed friend," who " pooketed my money,"' and left me "minus the means " hi !u\ first intenti >ns; but still hope, in a future edition, if I should nothave the nii sfurl uiic to make the acquaintance 6f another Tommy Bean, to be able to fulfil m\ fi rrnei' engagements. H138 75 5^7 A ^^ * <** ^ ^rrv .«* •^ v t *i^4:* ^ aO „•■ *^* -'Jill- ^ •* •4* iid% U .** *• ^, <** /^Va'o ^. a^ ' »V L %. * 7^ V A ,.*"<»„ <*> rsV . ^ ' • . % • ^ o^ ^> *• . » - A