Class 
 Book. 
 
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 copYKicirr DEPosrr. 
 
GOODWIN'S 
 
 COURSE IN SEWING 
 
 Practical Instruction in Needlework for 
 Use in Schools and at Home 
 
 BY 
 
 EMMA E. GOODWIN 
 
 Book I 
 
 FRANK D. BEATTYS & COMPANY 
 225 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK CITY 
 
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 Coi'VKKiirr, ii,To 
 
 r.v 
 
 Emma I'.. Coodwin 
 
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BOOK I. 
 
AUTHOR'S PREFACE 
 
 During many years' experience in the dressmaking trade, and in 
 teaching the more advanced technical work of designing, cutting 
 and fitting clothes, I have realized the need of a more thorough 
 training for the workers in the first principles of needlework. This 
 resulted in an observation, extending over the past six years, of the 
 teaching of sewing in the public schools of our larger cities. From a 
 careful study of what is given in the Domestic Arts courses of the 
 most efficient of these schools, I have formulated a definite, practical 
 outline of the work that should give a foundation for an advanced 
 technical training, fitting for the trades, or enable the pupil to do all 
 necessary household sewing. 
 
 Correlated subjects have been purposely omitted, the course con- 
 cisely given and fully illustrated. The drawings have been made 
 from such articles as are actually produced in the sewing classes of 
 the graded schools, and represent first the object completed, then 
 details of each step not previously given in its construction. 
 
 These illustrations in the hands of the pupils give them a clear 
 conception of the article to be made, and the method of making, and 
 should prove a valuable aid to those teachers who have not had the 
 advantage of a technical training in Domestic Arts. 
 
 The increasing interest in the vastly important subject of Indus- 
 trial Education leads me to hope that the work I have done may be 
 of some assistance to those who are striving to place the teaching of 
 sewing upon a systematic, practical basis. 
 
 I have selected McCall Patterns for use in this course as being, 
 in my judgment, the most reliable and easy to understand and use. 
 
 Emma E. Goodwin. 
 
INTRODUCTORY NOTE 
 
 Book i 
 
 The first book of this series is designed to provide a two-years* 
 course, but the time may be shortened according to the desire and 
 aptitude of the pupil. The models given upon canvas, using crewel 
 needles and worsted thread, are important in training the eyes and 
 finger muscles of the pupils to measure distances and follow direc- 
 tions with the needle. Those who have this preliminary practice 
 will proceed with the actual sewing much more readily. 
 
 If it be desirable to omit any portion of the work or shorten the 
 course on account of previous training or lack of time allotted for 
 the work, selection may be made from the articles given embodying 
 the principles of plain sewing that will be necessary in proceeding 
 with the work of the second book. 
 
 From the beginning pupils should assume correct position for 
 the work, sitting erect with the base of the spine well back against 
 the chair or seat, bending at the hips, not at the waist or shoulders. 
 The arms should not rest upon the desk or table, and the work 
 should be held at a point easily visible, but not close to the body, 
 which necessitates a sharp bend of the neck to focus the eyes upon 
 it. Occasional rest with an exercise in chest expansion should be 
 practiced during the sewing lesson. 
 
 Scissors properly sharpened should always be provided, and the 
 practice of biting threads should never be allowed, both because it 
 soils the work and may injure the teeth irreparably. 
 
 Needles must be straight and sharp and of suitable size for the 
 fabric and thread employed. 
 
 7 
 
Thread should be no lonji;er than the arm of the pupil, that it 
 may be drawn comfortably with one outward motion. 
 
 The thimble, worn upon the second finder of the right hand, 
 may be pressed against the eye of the needle from the top or side as 
 suits the length of the fingers of the individual pupils. Expert 
 ncedleworkers do not all use thimbles or needles in the same man- 
 ner. Indi\idual development of these positions should be per- 
 mitted. 
 
 \Vhate\er the work in hand it should be carefully put aside. 
 If small articles are used at first, they may be folded and placed in a 
 paper envelope marked with the pupil's name, to be brought out 
 at the next exercise. 
 
 Neatness and order are most important throughout the study 
 and practice of needlework, and should be an essential part of the 
 training from the beginning. 
 
 E. E. G. 
 
I. NEEDLE-BOOK 
 
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 Fig. I. — Needle-book Cover. 
 
 Materials. — Burlap canvas 2^ x 6 inches, flannel 2^ x 6 inches, 
 
 crewel needle and colored worsted thread. 
 
 Knot the thread. 
 
 Begin each line of stitches in a different corner of the canvas so 
 that the joining of the thread shall not be all in one place. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Overcasting. 
 
 9 
 
Overcasting. — Begin at the upper right-hand corner and work to- 
 ward the left. 
 Bring the thread from underneath through the first hole from 
 
 the edge. 
 
 Bring the thread over the edge and up through the third hole. 
 Take the stitches in the same way through every other hole 
 
 around the edges of the canvas. 
 
 Draw the thread even, but do not make the stitches tight. 
 'I'ake the last two stitches over the first two and cut off the end 
 
 of the thread close to the canvas. 
 
 Fig. 3. — Running. 
 
 Running. — Begin in the second row from the edge and bring the 
 
 thread up from underneath through the first hole. 
 
 Bring the thread back through the second hole and up through 
 the third iiole. 
 
 Take one stitch in the same way, back and forth through every 
 hole in the second row. 
 
 Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut the thread. 
 
 Even hasting. — Begin in the third row from the edge and bring tlic 
 thread up from underneath, through the first hole, and back 
 through the third hole. 
 Bring the thread up through the fifth hole and back through the 
 
 seventh hole, skipping one hole with each stitch. 
 
 10 
 
Fig. 
 
 -Even Basting. 
 
 Take the last two stitches over the first two and cut tlie thread. 
 
 Repeat the running-stitch in the fourth row. 
 
 Work a simple design in running-stitch through the middle of 
 the cover. 
 
 Notch the edges of the flannel piece with scissors and place it in 
 the middle of the cover. Fasten it to cover with the worsted 
 thread by taking two short stitches through to the right side in the 
 fifth and sixth holes from the edges. This leaves a long stitch over 
 the flannel on the inside. Bring the two ends of the thread to- 
 gether and tie in a bow-knot inside. 
 
 Fig. s. — Needle-book Inside. 
 II 
 
II. RECEPTACLE 
 
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 Fig. 6. — Square for Receptacle. 
 
 Materials. — Burlap canvas 6x6 inches, crewel needle and colored 
 worsted thread. 
 Knot the thread. 
 
 12 
 
Blanket -St itch. — 
 Begin at a lowei 
 left-hand corner 
 and work to- 
 ward the right. 
 Bring the thread 
 up through the 
 second hole from 
 the edge. 
 
 Put the needle 
 
 back through the 
 
 next hole to the 
 
 right in the same 
 
 row. 
 
 Hold the thread that comes from the first hole under the left 
 
 thumb, so that the point of the needle comes out each time over the 
 
 loop of the thread. 
 
 Draw the thread smooth, but do not make stitches too tight. 
 Take one stitch through the loop at the edge made by the first 
 stitch, and fasten the thread on the under side with two small 
 stitches over the last loop. Cut the thread. 
 
 Fig. 7. — Blanket-stitch. 
 
 Back-Stitch. — Begin at an upper right-hand corner in the first 
 
 below the blanket-stitch at the edge. 
 
 Bring the thread 
 up from the under 
 side, through the 
 second hole from 
 the end of the row. 
 
 Put the needle 
 back through the 
 first hole and up 
 through the third. 
 
 row 
 
 Fig. 8. — B.\ck-stitch. 
 
 13 
 
Put the needle back through the second hole and up through 
 the fourth, making small stitches that meet on top, and longer 
 stitches that overlap on the under side. 
 
 Take the last two stitches over the first two before cutting off 
 the thread. 
 
 Fig. 9. — Cross-stitch. 
 
 Cross-stitch. — Begin in an upper right-hand corner and use the 
 
 next two rows of holes for the design of cross-stitches. 
 
 Bring the thread up through the first hole in the lower row. 
 
 Put the thread back through the second hole in the upper row, 
 and up through the first hole in upper row. 
 
 Put the thread back through the second hole in lower row, and 
 up through the third hole in lower row. 
 
 This will cross the threads on the upper side and make two 
 parallel lines, like running-stitches, on the under side. 
 
 Take two small stitches over the last stitch on the under side to 
 fasten the thread. 
 
 14 
 
Oversewing. — 
 Fold the square 
 o- diagonally, choos- 
 ing a well finished 
 corner for the top. 
 Begin at the opening 
 made by the two corners that 
 come together. 
 
 Leave \ inch of the end of the 
 thread between the edges, to be sewed 
 down by the first few stitches. 
 Take three stitches over and over in the 
 same place, to fasten the corners. 
 Take stitches over the edges, through the 
 loops, down to the point. 
 
 Fasten the thread by sewing back over the two stitches at the 
 end. 
 
 Cover a small brass ring with blanket stitches, and fasten to the 
 top of the receptacle with over and over stitches; or make a hanger 
 of twisted thread, fastened in the same way. 
 
 15 
 
III. LAMP MAT 
 
 
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 Fig. II. — Lamp Mat. 
 
 Materials. — Burlap canvas 6^ x 61 inches, crewel needle and col- 
 ored worsted thread. 
 Knot the tlircad. 
 
 \6 
 
Blanket-stitchy (liferent form. — Begin as for blanket-stitch, Fig 7. 
 
 Take one short stitch and one long stitch, then another short 
 stitch. 
 
 Leave one hole between and repeat the three stitches in the same 
 way, around the edges of the mat. 
 
 Fig. 12. — Outline-stitch. 
 
 Outline-Stitch. — Begin at a lower right-hand corner and work up- 
 ward. 
 Bring the needle up through the first hole at the bottom, drawing 
 
 the thread to the right side. 
 
 Put the needle back through the third hole and up through the 
 
 second. 
 
 Fig. 13. — Catch-stitch. 
 17 
 
Put the needle back through the fourth hole and up through the 
 third. 
 
 Each time bring the needle uji to the left of the stitch already 
 taken. 
 
 Fasten the thread on the under side, as before. 
 
 Catch-stltcli. — Bring the needle up through the first hole of the 
 
 design at a lower left-hand corner, and work upward. 
 
 Cross over to the third row to the right and put the needle back 
 through the fourth hole and up through the third. 
 
 Keep the thread at right of the needle when the stitch is taken 
 on the left side, and at left of the needle when the stitch is taken on 
 the right side. 
 
 Fasten the thread on the under side, as before. 
 
 Darning. — Use thread without knotting. Begin at a lower right- 
 hand corner and work upward. 
 
 Take running-stitches under one thread and over the next. 
 Turn at the top and work downward through the next row, 
 
 taking up on the needle the threads that were passed over in the 
 
 first row. 
 
 Fill the center of the mat with darning-stitches. 
 
 Fig. 14. — Darning. 
 18 
 
IV. PRACTICE PIECES 
 
 Fig. is. — Designs for Running-stitches. 
 19 
 
Materials. — Unbleached muslin 6x6 inches, No. 8 needles, No. 
 50 colored cotton thread and a strip of cardboard 6 inches long 
 and I inch wide. 
 
 -J. 
 
 Fig. iO. — Circle Marker. 
 
 Circle Marker. — Draw a straight line lengthwise through the center 
 
 of the cardboard strip. 
 
 Begin ^ inch from one end and place dots on this line, ^ inch 
 apart. 
 
 Begin at the second dot and punch small holes to admit the 
 point of a pencil. 
 
 In using the marker, place a pin through the first dot that was 
 left at the end, and through the material, which has been pinned out 
 on a flat surface. Put the pencil through the hole measuring half 
 the diameter of the circle to be drawn. Using the pin as a pivot, 
 swing the marker around with the point of the pencil, and mark the 
 outline of the circle on the material. 
 
 Draw different geometrical designs and follow the outlines care- 
 fully with running-stitches. 
 
 Use thread without knotting. 
 
 Begin to sew by taking two stitches over and over in the same 
 place. 
 
 Make stitches even, passing over the same number of threads in 
 the cloth as are taken up each time on the needle. 
 
 Join the stitches by running the last two over the first two, and 
 fasten with two stitches taken over and over before cutting the 
 thread. 
 
V. BAG 
 
 Fig. 17. — Finished Bag. 
 
 Materials. — Striped or checked gingham 6x 12 inches, 2 tapes 18 
 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 white cotton thread. 
 Fold the cloth across the width and pin the sides of the bag 
 
 evenly together. 
 
 Knot the thread for basting. 
 
 JJneven hasting. — Allow \ inch seams and begin with a short 
 stitch taken through to the under side, leaving the knot on top. 
 Take stitches \ inch long on the upper side and about J inch 
 
 long on the under side. 
 
 Baste the side seams of the bag. 
 
Half hdck-stitching. — Measure if inches from the top of the bag 
 and begin sewing the side seam just below the line of basting- 
 stitches. 
 
 Take two stitches over and over to fasten the thread. 
 
 Take one stitch at a time as in back-stitching, jnittin^ the needle 
 back only one-half the length of the stitch on the under side. 
 
 Fig. i8. — Half Back-stitching. 
 
 This makes short stitches on top with spaces between equal to 
 the length of the stitches. 
 
 Overcast the seams, taking stitches \ inch deep and \ inch apart. 
 
 The if inches left without sewing, at the top of the bag, are to 
 be turned in. 
 
 Baste each edge down e\en w ith the scam. 
 
 Turn \ inch fold across the raw edges of the top. 
 
 Turn again, a :| incli fold, and baste down. 
 
 Sew down the edge of this fold with running-stitches. 
 
 22 
 
Fig. 19— Wrong Side of Bag. 
 
 Place a second row of running-stitches | inch above the first row 
 to form a casing for the tapes. 
 
 With tape needle or bodkin run one tape in from each side of 
 the bag, allowing the two loose ends of each tape to come out at 
 opposite sides. Tie the ends of each tape together. 
 
 Remove bastings and turn bag right side out. 
 
 23 
 
VI. PENCIL CASE 
 
 Fig. 20. — Pencil Case, Finished. 
 
 Materials.— Gingham 5x 17 inches, cut lengthwise of the cloth; 
 tape 12 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 50 cotton thread. 
 Turn } inch fold on the long edges. 
 Turn ^ inch fold across one end. 
 Fold the piece crosswise and crease the middle of it. 
 
 24 
 
Open again and fold the end with Uie raw edge over to this 
 crease. 
 
 Lap the end having ^ inch fold over the rirst end, placing the 
 raw edges together on the inside. 
 
 Pin carefully into position and baste around the outside edges. 
 
 Working from right to left, oversew the edges together. 
 
 Fig. 21. — Oversewing. 
 
 Oversewing. — Put the needle through one of the folded edges and 
 
 leave h inch of the thread between the edges, to be sewed down 
 
 with the first few stitches. 
 
 Take small stitches of even depth and space over and over 
 through the edges, pointing the needle through at right angles to 
 the seam. 
 
 Take the last two stitches over and over the first stitch, to fasten 
 the thread. 
 
 Finishing. — Fold the pencil case lengthwise through the center and 
 
 mark with a crease. 
 
 Fold each half of the case in three divisions and mark, making 
 six divisions in all. 
 
 25 
 
Begin at the folded edge across the middle and follow each 
 crease with a line of running-stitches. 
 
 Take three or four stitches over and over the folded edge at the 
 beginning of each division. 
 
 Back-stitch the middle of the tape to the edge of the case at the 
 middle of one side, to tie around the case when in use. 
 
 Remove bastings. 
 
 26 
 
VII. PRACTICE PIECES 
 
 Fig. 22. — Starting the Hem 
 
 Fig. 23. — Hemming. 
 •27 
 
Fig. 24. — Joining thk Hemming. 
 
 Materials. — Unbleached muslin ^ x j inches, No. 8 needle and No. 
 50 colored cotton thread. 
 
 Hemming. — Turn | inch fold along the lengthwise edges. Turn 
 again, ^ inch hem on one side and i inch hem on the other. 
 Baste the hems. 
 Begin at the right end of hem and, pointing the needle to the 
 
 
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 Fig. js- — Right Side op Hem. 
 28 
 
right, take the first stitch through the fold only. Leave J inch of 
 the thread to be sewed under the fold with the first three or four 
 stitches. 
 
 Take two stitches over and over at beginning to secure the end. 
 
 Take small stitches of uniform slant and size through to the 
 right side and up through the folded edge. 
 
 Joining the hemming. — When half way through the hem, cut the 
 thread off^ to within | inch of the last stitch and draw this end 
 under the fold with the point of the needle. 
 Take the next stitch with a fresh thread through the hole in the 
 
 fold where the last stitch came out. Leave | inch of this thread to 
 
 be placed under the fold and fastened with the other loose end by 
 
 the next few stitches. 
 
 Finishing. — Take two or three stitches over and over through the 
 fold to secure the end of the hemming before cutting the thread. 
 
 (Note. — In folding hems be careful that the warp and woof 
 threads are parallel with each other on the right and wrong 
 sides. This is necessary to prevent twisting of the cloth.) 
 Wide hems or those in soft fabrics that do not hold a crease 
 
 should always be basted carefully before hemming. 
 
 29 
 
VIII. DOLL'S APRON 
 
 Fig. 26. — Doll's Apron. 
 
 Materials. — Gingham or percale 8x12 inches, cut crosswise of the 
 
 cloth; tape or ribbon for ties 12 inches, No. 8 needle and No. 
 
 50 cotton thread. 
 
 Turn and baste \ inch hems across the shorter edges for the sides 
 of the apron. 
 
 Turn and baste i-inch hem across one of the longer edges for the 
 bottom. 
 
 Turn and baste ^ inch hem across the remaining edge for the top. 
 
 Hem carefully as on practice piece. 
 
 Place one row of running-stitches through the middle of the top 
 hem to make a casing. Run in tape or ribbon to gather and tie the 
 apron. 
 
 30 
 
IX. PATCHING 
 
 Fig. 27. — Hemmed Patch, Right Side. 
 
 Fig. 28. — Hemmed Patch, Wrong Side. 
 
 Materials for hemmed patch. — Striped or checked gingham 5x5 
 
 inches, with small hole in center to represent worn garment; 
 
 patch 3x3 inches. 
 
 Turn I inch fold on the right side around the edges of the patch. 
 
 Place the patch with its right side against the wrong side of the 
 piece to be mended, with the hole in the center of the patch. Match 
 the checks or stripes, placing the warp and woof threads running 
 the same way in both pieces. 
 
 Baste the patch in position and hem down the edges carefully 
 to the piece representing garment. 
 
 Cut the worn portion on the right side to within h inch of the 
 lines of the hemming. 
 
 31 
 
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 ill I 
 
 X)=M 
 
 >ii,>>miUiimiiu I 
 
 Tfrrwit 
 
 
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 Cut the corners diago- 
 nally i inch, and fold under 
 the ed^es of the opening. 
 
 Baste down to the patch, 
 beinj; careful to keep the 
 corners well folded under. 
 Hem on the ri^ht side. Re- 
 move bastings. 
 
 Materials for oversewed 
 patch. — Strijied or 
 checked pinirham 'j x ^ ^"^ ^^' — oversewed patch, right side. 
 
 inches, with hole in center; patch ^x ^ inches. 
 Turn -} inch fold toward the wrong side, around the edges of 
 the patch. 
 
 Place the patch right side up, on the right side of the piece rep- 
 resenting garment, with the hole back of the center of the patch. 
 Match the stripes or checks and baste in position. 
 
 Fold back the piece rep- 
 resenting garment so that 
 the folded edges meet exactly 
 the folded edges of the patch. 
 Oversew these edges care- 
 fully together. 
 
 On the wrong side, cut 
 out the portion covered by 
 the patch to within \ inch of 
 the line of oversewing. 
 
 Open the seam flat. Cut 
 out the cloth where the cor- 
 ners of the patch fold over. 
 
 Overcast the edges sepa- 
 rately. 
 
 
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 Fig. 30. — OvKRsHWED I'atcii, Wrong Side. 
 
 i2. 
 
Fig. 31. — Flannel Patch, Right Side. 
 
 Materials for fiann el patch, set 
 in. — Striped or checked 
 outing flannel 5x5 inches, 
 with small hole in center; 
 patch ^x'^ inches. 
 Cut a square hole, i inch 
 each way, from the center of 
 the piece representing gar- 
 ment. 
 
 Fold the piece diagonally 
 and cut into the corners ^ 
 inch. 
 
 Place the patch with one edge even with the edge of the hole and 
 the right sides of the pieces together. Keep the warp and woof 
 threads of the cloth even and match the stripes or checks. 
 
 Begin at one corner and baste the seam carefully to second 
 corner. Turn and baste to the next corner, keeping the threads of 
 both pieces even. Baste across the next side, being careful that the 
 patch exactly fits the size of the hole, that the threads of the goods 
 are even, and that the stripes 
 or checks match perfectly. 
 Baste along the remaining side 
 to the beginning. 
 
 Back-stitch the seam in 
 the line of basting. 
 
 Remove the basting, trim 
 the edges even, and open the 
 seam flat. Cut away the cor- 
 ners of the patch that fold over. 
 Catch-stitch across the 
 open seam from the wrong 
 side, taking very small stitches 
 through to the right side. 
 
 iiiniiiiiiiiii 
 
 Fig. 32. — Flannel Patch, Wrong Side. 
 
 33 
 
Mutrridls J or flatitiel patchy 
 cdtch-stitched. — Striped or 
 checked outinj; flannel 5x5 
 inches, with hole in center; | 
 patch ^ y^ I inches. ^■' 
 
 Baste jxitch over the hole 
 with the right side to the 
 wrong side of the piece repre- 
 senting garment, as in hemmed 
 patch. 
 
 Catch-stitch the raw edges 
 of the patch to the piece rep- 
 resenting garment. 
 
 Fig. 34. — Flannel Patch, Wrong Side. 
 
 IP 
 f 
 
 Fig. a. — Flannel Patch, Right Side. 
 
 Cut out the material frofn 
 
 I the right side to w ithin \ inch 
 
 of the line of catch-stitching 
 
 around the edges of the patch. 
 
 Baste these edges and 
 catch-stitch to the patch from 
 the right side. 
 
 Remo\e bastings. 
 
 When mending garments, 
 j)ress the patches from the 
 wrong side, or from the right 
 side with a piece of cloth 
 between the iron and the 
 material to be pressed. 
 
 .14 
 
X. TAPE AND BUTTON SEWING 
 
 Fig. 35. — Tape and Button Model. 
 
 Materials. — Bleached muslin 4^ x 7 inches, tapes 2^ inches, 3J 
 inches and 5 inches; one four-holed button and one two-holed 
 button. 
 Turn I inch fold around the edges of the muslin. Fold even, 
 
 with the shorter sides together and the raw edges inside. Baste and 
 
 oversew the edges. 
 
 35 
 
For a fiat tape loop or hanger. — Turn under \ incli at each end of the 
 
 2h inch tape and baste Hat across one end of model piece, ^ 
 
 inch from the edge. 
 
 Back-stitch the tape to the folded muslin, \ inch from each end. 
 
 Hem down the doubled edges of the tape beyond the back- 
 stitching. 
 
 For a tape used to tie garments. — Finish \ inch hem at each end of the 
 
 3^ inch tape. 
 
 Oversew one end firmly to the edge of the model, at the end 
 opposite the flat loop. Sew back over the first stitches to the point 
 of beginning and fasten the ends securely. 
 
 For a tape loop. — Fold the 5-inch tape to form a point, and over- 
 sew the inside edges together for the space of h inch from the 
 ends. 
 Fold the ends under \ inch and baste to the side of the model, 
 
 Ia]«ping the tape over the edge to cover the folded ends. 
 
 Hem the ends of the folded tape to the muslin and hem the edge 
 
 of the muslin across the tape. 
 
 To sew on two-Jioled button. — Fold and crease the model lengthwise 
 
 through the middle and mark on the crease places for buttons, 
 
 i^ inches from each end. 
 
 Double and knot the thread. Take a short stitch through from 
 the right side, at right angles to the warp threads of the muslin. 
 
 Put the needle through one hole of the button from the under 
 side. Place the button with the two holes exactly over the stitch 
 already taken through the muslin. 
 
 Put the needle back through the second hole. Slip a pin under 
 the first stitch across the top of the button, to keep the threads from 
 being drawn too tight. 
 
 36 
 
Take three or four stitches back and forth through the holes of 
 the button, and bring the needle out between the cloth and the 
 button. 
 
 Remove the pin. Wrap the thread two or three times around 
 under the button. This will provide space for the buttonhole and 
 protect the threads from wear. 
 
 Put the needle through to the back and fasten the thread with 
 two or three stitches over and over those on the under side. 
 
 To sew on four-holed button. — Take a small stitch with the double 
 
 knotted thread, as for two-holed button. 
 
 Put the needle through one hole of the button from the under 
 side. 
 
 Place the button so that the two holes at the right are exactly 
 over the stitch taken in the muslin, with the knot under the 
 upper right hole and the thread. coming up through the lower right 
 hole. 
 
 Put the needle back through the upper left hole and up through 
 the lower left hole. 
 
 Bring the needle back through the upper right hole. 
 
 Slip a pin under the stitches across the top of the button. Sew 
 again, up through the lower right hole and down through the upper 
 left. 
 
 Sew up through the lower left hole and down through the upper 
 right. 
 
 Bring the needle out between the button and the cloth. 
 
 Remove the pin. Wrap the thread three times around under 
 the button. 
 
 Put the needle through. Fasten the threads with two or three 
 stitches over and over the stitching on the under side. 
 
 27 
 
XL KITCHEN TOWEL 
 
 Materials. — Linen crash or glass toweling J yard and tape for loop 
 
 5 inches. 
 
 Cut the ends of the towel straight with the woof thread. Fold 
 under \ inch across the ends. Fold again, \ inch, baste and 
 hem. 
 
 Sew a loop of tape at the middle of one end, as taught on tape 
 and button model. Fig. 35. 
 
XII. DECORATIVE STITCHES 
 
 Fig. 36. — Model for Decorative Stitches. 
 
 Materials. — Practice piece of red or blue flannel 6x8 inches, long- 
 eyed embroidery needle, white cotton embroidery thread. 
 Turn and baste ^ inch fold along the sides and I inch fold 
 
 across the ends. 
 
 Cut a narrow strip of stiff paper the width of the piece and fold 
 
 into quarters. The creases made are to be used as a marker t(p 
 
 guide the three lines of basting. ■ . ; 
 
 Divide the piece of flannel into four equal sections by running 
 
 parallel lines of basting-stitches from one end to the other. 
 
 Catch-stitch from the upper side through the raw edges of the 
 
 half-inch fold. (See Fig. 13 for catch-stitching.) 
 
 39 
 
Fig. 37. — Chain-stitch. 
 
 Chain-stitch. — Bring the knotted thread 
 through from underneath at the top of 
 the first marking line. Work toward the 
 bottom. Hold the thread to the left with 
 the left thumb and put the needle back 
 at the point where the thread came 
 out. 
 Take a stitch about I inch long and bring 
 
 the needle through again directly below and 
 
 over the thread which forms the loop. 
 
 Be careful that the stitches follow in a 
 
 straight line and are of even length. 
 
 Fasten on the under side by taking two 
 
 or three stitches over the last stitch. 
 
 Single feather-stitch. — Begin at the top of the second marking lin€, 
 bringing the thread through as for chain-stitch. 
 Hold the thread to the right with the loop under the left thumb. 
 
 Put the needle back 
 and take a stitch I inch 
 long and g inch to the 
 rigln of the place where 
 the thread came out, 
 bringing the needle out 
 over the loop of thread. 
 Hold the loop of 
 thread to the left and 
 take another stitch ^ 
 inch to the left of the 
 place where the last 
 stitch came out. 
 
 Follow the line with 
 stitches taken first to 
 40 
 
 Fig. 38. — Single Fkather- 
 
 STITCH. 
 
 Fig. 39. — DoiBLE Feather- 
 stitch. 
 
the right and then to the left. Be careful to keep the stitches of 
 the same slant and length. 
 
 Remember to throw the loop of thread to the side on which the 
 stitch is being taken. 
 
 Fasten underneath with two or three stitches taken over the last 
 stitch. 
 
 Double feather-stitch. — Begin as for single feather-stitch. Take 
 two stitches to the right and two stitches to the left of the line, 
 always putting the needle back on a line with the place where the 
 last stitch came out. 
 Triple feather-stitch may be done in the same way, by taking 
 
 first three stitches to the right, then three stitches to the left. 
 
 The stitches may be vertical, following the line of the warp 
 
 threads, or they may be taken diagonally across the warp and woof 
 
 threads, but they should be of uniform slant and size. 
 
 Finish the ends of the model with buttonhole-stitch. 
 
 Buttonhole-stitch. — Begin at an upper right- 
 hand corner and work toward the left. 
 Bring the knotted thread through the 
 edge of the fold, close to the end. 
 
 Put the needle from the under side, half- 
 way through the cloth, | inch from the edge, 
 and hold it in this position. 
 
 Take the double thread that comes from 
 the eye of the needle between the thumb 
 and finger of the right hand. Pass it around 
 to the left, under the point of the needle. 
 
 Draw the thread through, straight out 
 from the edge. . 
 
 Take the next stitch | inch to the left 
 
 41 
 
 Fig. 40. — Buttonhole-stitch. 
 
and even u ith the first stitch. Pass the thread under the point of 
 the needle and draw it out straight from the edge, as before. 
 
 Make the stitches straight and even, and do not draw the threads 
 too tight. 
 
 Fasten by taking two stitches over and over on the under side. 
 
 Buttonhole-stitch may be worked from left to right. The 
 thread must then be brought from the left side of the needle and 
 around the point from left to right, in order to give the edge the 
 same corded appearance. 
 
 4« 
 
XIII. GATHERED BAG 
 
 Fig. 41. — Gathered Bag — Finished. 
 
 Materials. — Gingham or print 12 x 14 inches, two strips for bands, 
 
 2x7 inches and two pieces of tape 24 inches. 
 
 Fold the cloth with the shorter edges together for the top. Fold 
 again, lengthwise. Round off the two lower corners of the bag. 
 
 Baste \ inch seam around the bottom and sides of the bag. 
 
 Sew just below the line of basting with half back-stitches, to 
 within I inch of the top edges. (See Fig. 19 for half back-stitch- 
 ing) 
 
 Finish the raw edges left at the sides with small hems turned in 
 even with the seam. 
 
 Overcast the seam. 
 
 Fold each half at the top of the bag in four equal divisions, and 
 mark with short lines of running-stitches. Gather each half \ inch 
 from the edge, taking short running-stitches on the under side and 
 stitches twice the length on top. 
 
 43 
 
Fig. 42. — Gathering. 
 
 Turn \ inch folds 
 across the ends of the 
 two bands. Divide them 
 each into four equal 
 spaces, with lines of 
 running-stitches. Place 
 the hands to the top of 
 the bag, w ith the creased 
 ends of the bands at the 
 edges of the hemmed 
 openings. Pin the gath- 
 ers at the marking 
 stitches. Draw up the gathering threads to the size of the band. 
 Baste in place. Sew the bag to the band with a back-stitch 
 through each gather. 
 
 Turn \ inch fold along the loose edges of the band, and 
 turn down half the width of the band, bringing the folded edge 
 over the seam to the line of gathering. Baste, and hem, taking 
 a stitch through each 
 gather and up through 
 the edge of the band. 
 (See Fig. 23 for hem- 
 ming.) 
 
 Begin where the band 
 joins the bag and over- 
 sew the creased ends one- 
 half the width of the 
 band. Remove bastings. 
 Turn the bag right side 
 out and run the tapes 
 in from opposite sides of 
 the bag. (See bag in 
 
 8' /*'' F'G. 43- — Bag, Gathered and Attached to Band. 
 
 44 
 
XIV. CHART 
 
 Cloth ma Je from cotton: 
 
 Gingham. Muslin. 
 
 Lawn. 
 
 Cloth made from flax. 
 Linen. 
 
 Crash. 
 
 Canvas. 
 
 Cloth made from silk: 
 Taffeta silk. 
 
 Satin. 
 
 Velvet. 
 
 Cloth made from wool: 
 
 Flannel. Cashmere. 
 
 Broadcloth. 
 
 Arrange small samples of each kind of cloth named. 
 
 45 
 
XV. SUGGESTIONS FOR HOME WORK 
 
 Pupils having finished the work shown in this book should be 
 able to make the following articles: 
 
 Hemmed towels. 
 Hemmed dusting cloths. 
 Laundry bags. 
 String bags. 
 Wall pockets. 
 Slipper cases. 
 Dusting caps. 
 Sleeve protectors. 
 Children's bibs. 
 
 Kitchen aprons, and other simple 
 and useful articles. 
 
 46 
 
Memoranda 
 
 47 
 
THE NEW IDEA IN TEACHING READING 
 
 AS UMUOUIEU IN 
 
 THE SUMMERS READERS 
 
 By MAUD SUMMERS 
 The Literature of Childhood Presented in the Language of Childhood 
 
 Profusely and Ikaulifully Illuslratcd innn Original Drawings. 
 
 By LUCY FITCH PERKINS 
 
 A Sane Method, developing the Thought Element through Action, 
 Rhythm and Sound. Nursery rhymes, poems and stories of unusual interest 
 ancl educational value. Popular children's stories, fairy tales, myths, nature 
 stories, and stories descriptive of industries. 
 
 Primer: 114 pages. Price 30c. By mail, 36c. 
 
 First Reader: 160 pages. Price 36c. By mail, 42c. 
 
 Second Reader: 186 pages. Price 42c. By mail, 50c. 
 
 Manual for Teachers: Price 50c. By mail, 56c. 
 
 THE LYRIC SONG BOOK 
 
 By HARVEY WORTHINGTON LOOMIS 
 
 For Home and School Use and for Choral Societies. A choice collection 
 of beautiful songs with beautiful accompaniments. Folk songs of all nations, 
 together with representative sacred and patriotic selections. 
 
 Price 65 cents. By msul, 75 cents 
 
 THE BRIGHT SIDE 
 
 By CHARLES R. SKINNER, LL.D. 
 Former State Superiateadenl Public lastructloa. Sew York 
 
 This little book of messages of good cheer should be in every home and 
 school library. p^^^ j^^ ^^i,^ 75 ^^„j, 
 
 GOODWIN'S COURSE IN SEWING 
 
 By EMMA E. GOODWIN 
 
 A practical course \n sewing, for lionie and school use. 
 
 Book One : Price by mail, 50 cents 
 Book Two: Price by mail, 60 cents 
 Book Three : Price by mail, 60 cents 
 
 FRANK D. BEATTYS & COMPANY 
 
 225 Fifth Avenue New York City 
 
^y\ 18 1910 
 
One copy del. to Cat. Div.