r /<&'?/ .U k'^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/janiaicasumnierlanOOunit o • -n 5 c T» Ul i-» < Oi 00 THE MEPiSYpF ' OONQR5S9, One Oopy HmB<^r> ■net. -I is&a COPYRIGHT, 191 THE UNITED FRUIT COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. V V V ^^^ ^ CONTENTS FIRST IMPRESSIONS AND ITEMS OF INTEREST 5 TIMELY SUGGESTIONS 13 PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS . . . . ... 15 PHOTOGRAPHY 17 ISLAND TOURS Tour One ............. IS Tour Two ............. 19 Trip to Blue Mountain Peak ........ 21 Tour Three . . . . . • . . . . . . . . 23 Tour Four 23 Tour Five ............. 24 NEW HOTEL AT PORT ANTONIO 26 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND .31 CABIN PLANS OF "ADMIRAL" STEAMSHIPS . . . . , 42-43 A TYPICAL COOLIE FAMILY ITHIN less than five days' sail on a perfectly appointed steamship, all but one day of which is passed in a sea of summer mildness, lies a tropic island of such surpassing loveliness of climate, such grandeur of scenery, and peopled with so picturesque a race, that any feeble attempt at adequate description seems almost burlesque. You embark upon a wintry sea, swept by a keen and biting wind. Within twenty-four hours you are at the edge of the Gulf Stream, and from there onward the temperature becomes milder, until on the third day you sight Watling's Island, better known as San Salvador, the first landing-place of Columbus. On the fourth day the steamer passes Cape Maisi, after running within plain sight of Castle and Fortune Islands, while passing through the Crooked Island passage. A few hours further sailing brings the island of Jamaica into sight. At first a low-lying insignificant mass of clouds upon the horizon, gradually grow- ing in size and increasing in color, until suddenly the grandeur of the mountains breaks upon the view, almost in unexpected reality. If the passenger saw nothing else, this view alone would well repay for taking the trip. The steamer rounds Folly Point and makes her way into the beautiful harbor of Port Antonio, which is almost without an equal on the entire coast. You will find an island about one hundred and forty-four miles long, the fairest the sun ever shone on, and where living is one long phantasma of delight. The island and the scenery seem almost theatrical. By chance you may approach your destination in a tropical shower, so thick that it fills the purpose of a drop curtain. Suddenly the rain stops, nature raises the veil, you hold your breath with amaze- _, jL^ iSSSII^^^^^^^^^^BLf.^-^ THE BEACH AT ment. The stage is '-'^^^^^^■H^HIII^!^ annotto bay (5) set, and the play is on ; overhead you get no paper sky, nothing but nature. Grand, rolling, ever shifting, cumulus clouds, now rising to reveal the mountains, reaching six and seven thousand feet into the blue ; flanked, as side scenes, by the richest, greenest, and most gorgeous foot-hills the eyes of man ever looked upon ; and for a stage floor, the broad expanse of the blue Caribbean (blue, did I say, rather, indigo, violet, purple, orange, any color you wish, they are all there) rolling against the coral cliffs and throwing the spray in great white masses high in the air, as much as to say, " see what an artist I am ; notice the wonderful effect of my white spray against the dark green of the cocoanuts and palms." As if to complete the realism, tears are brought to the eyes of high-strung, sensitively organized passengers, but no sound of applause is heard, the play is too real, too intense. There is only one act and no finale, save that the stage setting is forever changing. Nature possesses an army of stage hands, and the scenery is forever shifting. But here comes one of the players, with an invitation to go behind the scenes ; and now comes a lotus dream of delight, such as was never known outside the fable books of childhood. To step on this wondrous stage, to meet the actors, to talk with them, to become as it were a player yourself, to wander in and out at will among the scenes, to lie down at night and be lulled to sleep by tropic odors, by the mysterious night sounds of birds and insects peculiar to this island, to rise at daylight and bathe in nature's own bath-tub with the water at 83°, to sit at breakfast, and indulge in grape fruit, bananas, mangoes, oranges, — anything you wish, all grown on the stage, — do you wonder that one who has never been there is filled with rapture too deep for words, and that those who have traveled sixteen hundred miles to see FERN GULLY (6) this wonderful play of nature, return again, feeling the price all too little to pay for a comedy in which an over bountiful nature sets the stage and operates the scenery and all the inhabitants act their little parts ? When you are tired of showing yourself before an over appreciative audience, take your day off and retire far into the moun- tain fastnesses of this veritable garden of Eden ; and when you return, tell me, was not your first entry on the stage but the prelude to the greater beauties which nature has wisely held in reserve, and as dessert after an all LEAVING PORT ANTONIO HARBOR (7) too bountiful repast ! Except in this case you can indulge freely, without fear of after effects. As you draw farther into the rear of this great amphitheater, you leave civilization more and more behind you, and arrive in some places at almost the primitive state of man. Up you go, through vast mountain gorges, winding around beautiful buttresses of palm and bamboo, climbing ever higher and higher, until at points the river in the gorge, one thousand to fifteen hundred feet below, seems like a silver thread in a wilderness of green. Still farther above you loom the wonderful blue tops, and still you climb up, and yet up. At last you arrive, as it were, in the very skies themselves, and from this advantageous point gaze enraptured over the great stage which but a few hours before you had left behind you. In the distance the Caribbean flows in most wonderful colors of blue, indigo, and violet, from its wave-washed shore. The grand tropical scenery gradually draws to you, culminating at your very feet in growths too complex, too dense to be invaded, and sheltering behind its screen of leaves and branches those wonderful tropic mysteries with which the island is filled and seem more won- derful from the fact that we know so little about them. Retracing your steps toward nightfall, and winding down the same path, you arrive once more on this living stage ; but what a change in the setting of the scenery since you left it early in the day ! The sun has dropped behind the dense banks of blue, and the afterglow, which only the tropics can furnish, has spread itself over land and sea, in colors which cannot be described, but onJy treasured in the memory. Tell me, you jaded traveler, or you whose visit to the tropics is counted as your first, ' -' Vi i jil wt '- --j L-t ^°^ ^^^ island of Jamaica worth traveling far to see ? The great charm of the islaij^^PB^^HJ^^^^^^^t _ ^ - -^ lies in the beautiful roads, which are simply mag- nificent for automobiling and bi built and furnished, and with interest can be easily reached drive. From Port Antonio" Road, so-called, to Blue Hole, cycling. From the numerous hotels, artistically a first-class cuisine, nearly all the points of from the different towns in a forenoon or day's there is a beautiful drive along the Leeward which can be continued thnuph Manchioneal, PORT MARIA THE ROAD TO MQORETOWN Bowden. Port Morant, and so around to Kingston, — a distance of about seventy miles. Another beautiful drive is the one to Golden Vale Plantation and Winsor, distant from Port Antonio about eight miles. Driving up the Windward Road a series of outings can be had to Hope Bay, Buff Bay, and also to Annotto Bay, and from there to Castleton Gardens, con- tinuing if desired to Kingston. , , All these drives are of surpassing loveliness, some of them along a magnificent stretch of shore swept by the never ceasing surf rolling in from the Caribbean. Others through magnificent mountain gorges, rising on some trips to a height of three thousand feet in a distance of twelve to fourteen miles. A number of them follow the courses of the beautiful rivers abounding on the island, giving at every turn most picturesque views of cascades and quiet stretches of water, overhung with luxuriant growths of bamboo, palm, and vines of every description. Leaving Port Antonio by the morning train for Annotto Bay, one of the most beautiful outings on the island can be enjoyed. A delightful road runs from this point into Port Maria, nine miles distant, — a most charming little town located in an in- dentation of the coast in the center of some of the most prolific cocoanut plantations on the island. From this point the road follows the coast in and out around the shoulders of the hills, crosses the heads of numerous tropical gorges, overhung its entire length with the foliage which everywhere abounds, and passes through the picturesque town of Ora Cabessa and Dry Harbor, arriving after an entrancing drive of twenty- six miles at the delightful town of Ocho Rios. There is a pleasant family hotel here, situated in full view of the Caribbean, and from this point a num- ber of unrivaled excursions can be made. A short drive of perl'aps half an hour takes one to the chief curiosity of this -5%,r M IA$ PORT ANTONIO ON A MARKET DAY <9) town, the famous Roaring River Falls, whicli here descend from a fieiglit of perhaps seventy-five feet in a succession of cascades and waterfalls of all shapes and sizes, joining at the base in a tumultuous flow of pure, limpid water. The peculiarity of these falls lies in the fact that the water, which is heavily charged with lime, is continually building up new barriers over which it has to find a new passage. The entire face of the falls is overhung with a massive growth of palm-trees, vines and vegetation of every description, rendering them doubly charming by nature of their environment. Continuing from this point, a drive of some fourteen miles brings us to the parish of St. Anns, which contains natural beauties without end, as well as a number of spots made historic by former occupants of the island. The charming part, however, of this little seaside town lies in the wonderful Fern Gully, and the drive is most profitably made when leaving this beautiful spot on the return journey. The Gully, so-called on account of the luxuriant growth of ferns which it contains, is a natural open tunnel running through the mountains for a distance of about six miles at a continually increasing altitude, giving in its turnings a wonderful succession of surprises, each one seemingly more beautiful isJHJ^^Kk than those which preceded it. Continuing, the traveler comes to the jmS^BKK^,.^ \\\X\e town of Moneague, charm- ingly situated among the hills, and boast- 'f'^^'^S^^KBIS^ '"8 °'^ ^ S°°'^ hotel. THE MAIN STREET OF PORT MARIA (lo: AT PEACE WITH THE WORLD From this point a most beautiful morning ride can be taken to Ewarton Station, passing over Mount Diablo, which is considered by some one of the finest view places on the island. At Ewarton the railroad can be taken either northward to Port Antonio, the point of departure, or in the opposite direction to Kingston, the capital of the island. Mention should be made here of the negro population, which of course far exceeds the white race in numbers, and also the East India coolies, who have been brought here under contract to work on the plan- tations. They will be met with in every direction on the road by the traveler, singly and in groups, and add probably the most picturesque feature to the country, in which it would seem that nature had already outdone herself. The orange section of the island is located around the little town of Mandeville, and is preferred by a great many visitors to the island on account of the high, dry, cool air. The scenery, while lacking much of the tropical luxuriance which prevails on the northern and eastern sides of the island, takes on more of the" beauty of the English pastoral landscape. The railroad from Kingston, which passes within seven miles of this place, continues on to the wonderfully beautiful town of Montego Bay, which is considered, next to Port Antonio, the most charming harbor on the coast. Much more could be said in this article of the charms which greet the traveler at every turn, notably the magnificent Blue Mountain Peak, which rises nearly seventy-five hundred feet above the sea^ and is covered with coffee plantations. Half-way up its side is.-:: Newcastle, where are located the barracks of the English troops which are quartered here. Bog Walk, on the line of the railroad between Kingston and Port Antonio, is connected with the little hamlet of Spanish- town, and should not be left out of the traveler's itinerary. Castleton Gardens, claimed to be the finest botanical gardens in the world, and the hot springs of Bath, will, in connection with m) A COOLIE HOLIDAY what has already been stated, fill the time of the traveler's stay here to the utmost with a never ending succession of charm and delight, and make the departure from these summer shores a regret which can be tempered with the thought that perhaps another year a revisit can be made to the island of Jamaica. SCHOOL CHILDREN OP PORT ANTONIO Distances. — Boston to Port Antonio, Jamaica, 1588 miles; Boston to Port Morant, Jamaica, 1638 miles; Phila- delphia to Port Antonio, 1400 miles; Philadelphia to Port Morant, 1450 miles; Baltimore to Port Antonio, 1350 miles; Baltimore to Port Morant, 1400 miles. Average Time of Passage to Jamaica. — Four days and twenty hours. When to visit Jamaica. — The tourist travel to Jamaica is at its heaviest between October 1 and May 1, although many people visit the island during the summer. Return Sailings from Jamaica. — It is impossible to fix a definite time for return sailings, but the return voyage is made as soon as cargo is loaded, which is usually from 36 to 48 hours after arrival. Knowledge of return sailings can be ascertained from any office of the Company in Jamaica in sufficient time to make necessary connections, and the importance is impressed upon-the tourist of either booking his return passage before leaving the northern port or as soon after his arrival as it is possible to do so. On Shipboard. — The "Admiral" steamships operated by this Company between Boston, Philadelphia, and Jamaica, are American built twin-screw vessels and are especially adapted to tropical travel. The " Brookline" and " Barnstable," especially adapted for tourist travel, are in service between Baltimore and Jamaica. They have commodious promenade decks, cool and airy, well-ventilated staterooms situated on the main and hurricane decks amidships, thus insuring a minimum of sea motion. The dining saloon is located on the main deck, well forward of the engine room and removed from all disagreeable odors incident. Bath-rooms are supplied with fresh or sea water and are at the disposal of the passengers at all times. The table is made an especial feature on these boats and is supplied with every delicacy the northern and tropical markets afford. The ships are furnished throughout with a perfect system of electric lighting and steam heating. The stewards and waiters are unremitting in their duties and everything is done for the comfort and convenience of the passengers. (13) Passengers holding return tickets and intending to remain over at Jamaica are expected to leave the steamer at Port Antonio, which is the outward terminus of the route. Steamers for return may be taken either at Port Antonio, Kingston, or Bowden. Money Values The relative value between our own and the money of the island is about two to one in favor of the English coin. An English penny is worth 2 cents, a shilling is 25 cents, and an English pound figures with exchange at about $4.90. The various offices of this Company also issue the American Express Company's travelers' checks when desired. Information for Passengers. — Two adults are placed in each room by the Company. One adult, or one adult and one child, desiring an entire room during the height of the traveling season will be charged two full fares. Excursion tickets, unless especially limited, are available for six months from date of issue. Children between six and twelve years, half fare. Only one child under six years free of charge. Children and nurses take their meals at the second table. Passengers' Baggage. — Passengers' baggage can be sent to the pier a few days in advance, and will be kept in the baggage-room there at the owners' risk until claimed. All baggage must be marked plainly with the name of the passenger and steamer. Cabin passengers are allowed 150 pounds of baggage free. Baggage in excess of this allowance will be charged for at freight rates ; but neither merchandise, specie, bullion, valuables, wines, nor stores will be carried as bag- gage. Tags and labels can be obtained from the Company's agents and at the pier. Passengers will be careful to leave their baggage only in charge of the Company's servants, and be particular to have money, jewelry, or other valuables placed only in charge of the Purser, who will issue a receipt and deposit the articles in the ship's safe, otherwise this Company will not be responsible for any loss. No baggage will be put aboard ship until checked by passenger, steamer trunks and small packages for stateroom use excepted ; and these should be plainly marked by cabin label. Dogs and Birds. — Dogs and birds are charged for at the rate of $5 each dog and $2 each bird. Dogs and birds not allowed in cabin. Bicycles. — Bicycles will be carried at owners' risk, free, but must be crated. Articles wanted during Voyage. — Articles wanted during voyage should be put in a valise or steamer trunk. Steamer Chairs. — Steamer chairs can be rented upon application to the Purser. Rental is $ 1 for each chair for the trip. Dutiable Goods. — As Jamaica is an English port, all baggage is subject to inspection by foreign officials. Personal baggage is exempt from duty, and the officials are courteous and considerate. A reasonable amount of tobacco and liquor is allowed to be taken home, free of duty, "for personal use," particulars of which are posted on the ships of the Company. The opportunity to make purchases in the shops is most unusual, and all dress goods being much cheaper than at home. PRACTICAL INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS )N important factor is winter clothing for the first thirty-six hours at sea. The heavy overcoat will be found a necessity at the start, but after that time will be discarded. Ladies will find their cloth capes very convenient, and a steamer rug is among the necessities. Once arrived at the island, however, the lighter clothing is needed, the ordinary summer attire is in order, but on some of the cooler eve- nings a light wrap will be found convenient. Light woolen under-garments will be found desirable and somewhat of a necessity, in preventing chills after the perspiration incidental to the tropics. A good supply of underwear will be found necessary. A few light skirts, with shirt waists of the usual fabric used in the north, and one light silk dress for evening wear at the hotel, will be found sufficient for the ordinary visitor. A light mackintosh is also quite likely to be needed. A light-weight traveling hat comes in very handy. Do not take kid gloves, as they will not stand the damp atmosphere ; any other material is preferable. A decollete evening gown will be found convenient in some instances, in case of an invitation to dinner. Gentlemen, of course, will take their light summer suits with outing shirts, but the light duck suit can be purchased much cheaper on the island than at home. It is optional whether to take the dress suit or not, but if one is carried, there will usually be found a use for it. _.^:-.j^,r, There is an excellent laundry at the hotel at Port Antonio, but on other parts of the island the situation is problematical. At the same ,,.-^j., . ,-.- tin^g^ the ordinary washing can usually be taken care of. !^V All the light summer goods can be bought and made up at either Kingston or Port Antonio at remarkably low prices. The tailors and dressmakers there will be found both reliable and accommodating. A duck suit can be made up for $4.50. HOME LIFE (15) Length of Trip. — The question of what to see depends on the tinne and proposed expense of the trip. In the briefest possible visit one stays over a single steamer, and, being absent nineteen days, has nine days on the island, but by returning on same steamer time can be reduced to twelve days. > Railway Trains. — There are approximately two trains per day each way from various principal points. Time-tables are to be had at hotel offices. The usual railway charges are about four cents per mile first class and tv/o cents per mile third class. Souvenir Collecting. — One of the chief delights of the visitor will be found in the great variety of curiosities at very low prices, and of artistic as well as intrinsic value. The chief objects of interest are the strings of vari-colored seeds, which can be purchased at from" nine pence to a shilling a string, according to length. The ippi-appi hats should be among the first investments, to wear while on the island. Have them trimmed with the bark of the lace tree. One should also bring back the native Kola wine. Pimento dram, Kananga water, and some of the coolie-made jewelry. Linen, summer flannel, and all dress goods can be obtained here very much below American prices. PHOTOGRAPHY "^^^ tourist who goes to Jamaica without a camera will sadly regret it, as the ^^iz=;=:::=^^^^^^^=:zzz= island is one continuous succession of pictures ; but a few timely suggestions will save the amateur much disappointment on return if they are followed. Exposures should not be made under the sunlight if it can possibly be avoided, and as there is hardly an hour in the day when the sky is not filled with small clouds, a few minutes' waiting will usually give the diffused light necessary. Contrary to the generally conceived idea, the light in Jamaica is not so strong as in our northern latitudes, and a slightly longer exposure is necessary to obtain the same results as would be obtained at home. An exposure of one-twenty-fifth second, which in the north would be sufficient, can safely be prolonged to one-fifth of a second on the island. Plates should not be developed or any attempt made at it on the island, as it is impossible to dry them with good results ; but if carefully packed they will suffer no injury, and come out at home in perfect condition. A fee should never exceed one shilling (twenty-five cents) for services rendered, and sixpence (twelve cents) is more usual. Oftentimes three-pence (six cents) will answer the purpose. Representatives of the United Fruit Company may be found at the following ports : St. Ann's Bay, Ora Cabessa Bay, Port Maria, Annotto Bay, Buff Bay, Orange Bay, Hope Bay, St. Margaret's Bay, Port Antonio (headquarters), Manchioneal, Port Morant, Morant Bay, Kingston. Mail and Cable Address. — Persons visiting the island should have all mail and cables addressed " Care United Fruit Company, Port Antonio, Jamaica." Mail can be forwarded from this address to parties touring through the island. The cost of postage is five cents per half-ounce for letters, and one cent per two ounces for papers. The expense of cabling is forty- eight cents per word. Cable addresses : Boston, " Banana " ; New York, " Banana" ; Philadelphia, " Banana " ; Balti-_.iBis more, " Banana" ; " Baker," Port Antonio. Letters,, are received five days from date of sailing from Boston, and four days from Baltimore and Phila- delphia. The time required for unloading a steamer usually allows for a reply to letters onj the return trip of the same steamer. FORD OF THE RIO GRANDE C17) TOUR ONE I HE trips given in Tour One are for tourists staying over one steamer only, giving nine days on the island. The usual time to arrive is Monday morning, the time of sailing is practically unchanged. First Day. — Tourists landing at Port Antonio will go to the Titchfield Hotel in carriages which v/iU meet the steamer, where they will find every convenience for their comfort. One of the finest features of Port Antonio is the exceptional sea-bathing, considered the best in the West Indies; the temperature is 83°, and nothing more delightful can be conceived. Bath-houses and bathing-suits are connected with the hotel, and boats are in readiness at the foot of the hill to convey tourists to the bathhouses at all times. After luncheon, the usual method of procedure is to take a drive to Blue Hole along the eastern coast, giving a charming series of views. Second Day. — A very charming drive, leaving the hotel at 8.30 a.m., is up what is called the "windward road" to St. Margaret's Bay. which can be easily taken and return in time for luncheon, crossing the Rio Grande River about three miles out and giving a beautiful view of one of the most charming stretches of water on the island. Third Day. —The Swift River drive, which is considered one of the most charming on the island, can well be taken now, leaving the hotel at about 8 a.m., and returning at 3 p.m. The drive winds up through the valley of the Swift River, giving most beautiful views, both of the mountains, and the gorge through which the river runs. Fourth Day. — Take the early morning train to Annotto Bay, at which place carriages will be in readiness for the drive to Gastleton Gardens, distant twelve miles, and considered the finest botanical gardens in the world. Arriving here at about noon, luncheon can be eaten and a short rest taken, driving back to Annotto Bay in ample time to take the train to Port Antonio. It- Fifth Day. — The tourist will probably be somewhat fatigued by the drives in the four preceding days, and this Friday can be well and easily spent in and around Port Antonio, as there are a number of sights well worth seeing, — the market, Titchfield fort and barracks, and the native stores, at which many unique souvenirs can be obtained. (18) Sixth Day. — It will be advisable to take the early morning train on Sat- urday to Kingston. After seeing the sights of the city take the electric cars to Constant Springs Hotel, spending Sunday there. Eighth Day. — Take the early morning train from Kingston to Spanish Town, and after seeing the several points of interest in the old town, which in- clude the little church and Rodney Memorial, take the carriage drive along the Rio Cobre River to Bog Walk, one of the most charming drives on the island ; return Ing from there on the afternoon train to Kingston. Ninth Day. — Take the steamer, which is scheduled to leave Kingston at 7.30 on Tuesday morning, stopping at Bowden, where she finally clears for Boston. WEST STREET PORT ANTONIO TOUR TWO HIS tour is laid out in what seems to be the best manner for the visitor who can stay over two steamers, giving eighteen days on the island. Would recommend that Tour One be followed up to the fifth day. and from there continue as follows : — Sixth Day. — Take the early morning train at Port Antonio for Buff Bay, arranging to have carriages meet the party at that point from Annotto Bay. At Buff Bay drive up the valley of the Buff Bay River to Friendship Gap, with Kingston on one side and the north shore of Jamaica on the other. The writer considers this, without exception, the finest drive on the island, and one least taken by tourists. It should not be missed, even if others are left out. If this trip is taken as recommended (on Saturday), nine miles up the valley will be found the Jigger Foot market, one of the most picturesque and quaint spots to be found on the island. This drive conveys the traveler three thousand feet above the level of the „, I-'_sea, up a steady but easy grade, giving the best viev/ of the mountains ';- to be obtained anywhere. Seventh Day. — Rest in Port Antonio and visit the English church. It will well repay the trouble. Eighth Day. — Take the early morning train to Albany, at which point, having arranged for carriages, drive through Port Maria and along the north coast of the island to Ocho Rios, stopping at Sylvia Lawn Hotel. This drive will be found delightful from start to finish, passing through Ora Cabessa, THE '""-^sW**?^)!^- ^^''•^:7n^.v^-- Rio Novo, and White River. ^Ros^smr'^r .• . , ' Ni'^t^ ^ay-- Drive to White River Cascade, about six miles CROssma f.^m tne hotel, giving a view of one of the most charming falls of water on the island. The color oUhe water is nearly white, owing to the large quantity of lime carried in deposit, which makes the effect of the falls more charming. Tenth Day -Drive in the morning to Roaring River Falls, three miles from the hotel, beautifully situated in the midst of a rank growth of palms and falling from a height of about one hundred feet • con- sidered the most picturesque falls on the island. Return in time for luncheon, and in the afternoon 'drive hrough the famous Fern Gully, an opening through the mountains nearly three miles in length and lined with ferns of every description, to Moneague, and stay at the Moneague Hotel over night. Eleventh Day. - Leave Moneague Hotel early in the morning in order to cross Mount Diabolo at sunrise, getting a most beautiful effect of the clouds and mist rising over the mountains. Arriving at Ewarton. take the morning train to Bog Walk and drive from there to Spanish Town, taking the afternoon train into Kingston, stopping at Constant Springs Hotel over night. Twelfth Day. -Take the morning train to Montego Bay. It will well repay the visit, being most beautifully situated on the northwest coast, giving some of the finest tropical views to be found on the island Stop here over the thirteenth day. (20) Fourteenth Day. — Return from Montego Bay to Mandeville, in the midst of the orange country, a charming English town and having a number of very beautiful drives, v/hich will be found enumerated in another part of this book. Fifteenth Day. — Stay at Mandeville over the fifteenth and sixteenth days. Seventeenth Day. — Return to Kingston by train and spend the remaining time in and about the city, visiting the different points of interest, which will be found enumerated in another part of the book, and meet the steamer on her arrival at Kingston on the eighteenth. Y«r<^» TRIP TO BLUE MOUNTAIN PEAK If the visitor can spare the time or take it from some of the other trips which have been arranged, the excursion to the top of Blue Mountain Peak is probably the most interesting on the island. It re- quires two days, and most of the way is made on donkeys' backs. The usual method in making the trip is to start on the first day and go as far as Abbey Green, the finest coffee plantation ,:■■,•• ..-.i.-i;, .-:..: on the island, and stop there over night, making the trip to the top of the mountains i-"''''^^'^&^^''f^'^^^- the next day. The rest house at the summit has been put in perfect shape to stay over night, and, if one wishes, he can stop there. At Newcastle, through which the visitor will pass, is the English militia encampment, and the view from there is very fine. Provisions should be carried for SUSPENSION BRIDGE OVER SWIFT RIVER (21) hanging around the peak, considLab.e Zp e s T^ be enc^^^^^^^^ .s a, i,e necessary, for if the clouds should be found in the hut and the key can be obtained at the F rr^ Hi lest" six Z7' 'T^'^' '"' '°°''"^ "*^"^''^ "'" '^ be found at Gordon Town The road while narrow TnT "'" ^'*^''' '"^ "^''^^ f''°'^ ^^e summit. Ponies and mules can scenery on the entire trip is on a sc Je If ma' Znce h ' fT"' " "'" "''' '"' '^"'^^"^ ^^^^ *° ^ ^ood rider. The .hich can be compared lith Z ^ V::!^^^;^::^'^::' '" '^^^^^^^^^^-^'^^ ^^^^ passes through Guava Ridge, a distance of four miles, at an elevation of nearly three thousand feet. He then crosses Yallahs River and comes to Farm Hill. Newcastle, where the British troops are encamped, will be seen on the left. Next comes Whitfield Hall and Abbey Green four thousand feet high. The temperature now becomes decidedly lower At an elevation of six thousand feet cultivation is left behind and the virgin forest is encountered. A cold wind, likened to an October day in New England, blows across the road and sends the blood tingling through the veins. It is said ice '•''■ sometimes forms near and at the peak. Arriving . «':^iT, at the summit, the whole island of Jamaica lies spread at the feet,— hills rising beyond hills until they vanish in the distance, and closed by a most charming sunset. ;' As darkness comes on, the lights of Kingston appear, far, far below. ON THE ■WINDWARD ROAD (22) TOUR THREE 5HIS tour is so laid out that the visitor may see something of the north coast beyond Port Antonio and also of the interior. This itinerary covers Port Antonio to Albany by train and carriage to St. Ann's by the Roaring River Falls and Ocho Rios, returning by the Fern Gully, Ewarton, and Mount Diabolo to Kingston. Total cost, including railroad fare, 405. each for a party of three, not including board and lodging. White River Falls may be taken in on this trip if desired. Leave Port Antonio on the 6.30 train to Albany, at which point carriages will meet the party, arrangements for which can be made by telegraphing Mr. Mesquita at Ocho Rios, or by arranging for the Fruit Company's carriages at Annotto Bay. The first eight miles to Port Maria is really the most arduous part of the trip, being a continual ascent for the first half and a corresponding drop into Port Maria the other. The night can be spent at Port Maria if desired, although the writer drove through to Ocho Rios, arriving there at 1.30. The drive from Port Maria is entirely along the coast, there being hardly a mile at any time when the sea is not in full view. The visitor passes through the towns of Ora Cabessa, Rio Novo, and Retreat. On the second day drive to St. Ann's, over a magnificent coast road, returning in the afternoon in time for supper. About twenty minutes' drive off the main road in St. Ann's will be found " Trenant," Julian Hawthorne's residence when there. Also the remains of the Priory church. Third Day. — Drive to Moneague from Ocho Rios, passing through the famous Fern Gully, and stop at the Moneague Hotel over night. Early the next morning drive over Mount Diabolo and take the morning train to Kingston. TOUR FOUR ■ HIS tour covers the itinerary of a trip around the island, with Port Antonio as a starting-point. First Day. — Take the early morning train to Kingston, stopping at Bog Walk. Drive through the valley of the Rio Cobre to Spanish Town and return to Kingston by the afternoon train. Second Day. — Take the morning train to Williamsfield, at which point a pleasant drive of four and one half miles takes one to Mandeville, where will be found a good hotel and several lodging-houses. A day can be well spent here. Continue from Williamsfield to Montpelier, passing through a part of the famous Cockpit country, reaching Montpelier (23) in the early afternoon, Montpelier Hotel will be found very corr.fortable. Continue on from Montpelier to Montego Bay, most delightfully situated at the end of the railroad and presenting a most beautiful view. Carriages will be found here for driving, and the parish church is well worth visiting on account of the monument erected to Rose Palmer. From there drive to Lucea Bay, containing one of the most delightful harbors on the island. Drive to St. Ann's Bay via Dry Harbor or Browns Town, passing through Runaway Bay and Dry Harbor. From St. Ann's drive to Ocho Rios, and from this point continue on through Port Maria to Albany, and from there take the train to Port Antonio. TOUR FIVE [ROM Kingston around the eastern end of the island to Yallahs and Morant Bay. This is a coast drive entirely. First point of interest is the little town of Yallahs, and the next stopping-place is Morant Bay, from which place large quantities of bananas are shipped. Twelve miles farther on is the little town of Port Morant, at which place the Boston steamers usually clear. Six miles beyond, the famous town of Bath is reached, noted for its hot springs. Good accommodations for lodgings can be found, and visitors usually stay here over night. At this point the trip to Port Antonio can be continued along the coast or through the Cuna-Cuna Gap to Mooretown, and from there to Port Antonio. This way leads through one of the wildest parts of the island. The drive around the coast to Port Antonio is thirty-eight miles, giving beautiful views of the coast and surf nearly the entire trip. (24) A RIVER VALLEY OF THE INTERIOR NEW HOTEL AT PORT ANTONIO JAMAICA the ocean. ^HE location on Titchfield Hill which has been selected for the new hotel to be built at Port Antonio in Jama.ca, of which Messrs, Ainslie and Grabow of the New Ocean House, Swampscott will be the managers, has been decided upon after several years of careful study of various sites in the island of Jamaica. Port Antonio is en the northern coast of Jamaica, and is the first stopping-place after a sail of four days on whirh R 77 ""y/fl °^ ""''•''' ^'"'' '^'"^ *° "•'■■"'' °"^'^ ^**^"*'°" '= *^ '°f'y P^3k of Blue Mountain, wh ch .s seventy-three hundred feet high, over one thousand feet higher than Mount Washington, and green to the top In the distance can also be seen the long range of the John Crow Mountains, so-called in Jamaica, which have several very high peaks, comparing more than favorably with the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Sailing closer to the island one w 1 notice that these mountains, which at first seemed to be in the foreground, are very far distant, being over twenty miles rom the shore The next thing to be seen from the deck is a bright light, which is soon found to be that of Folly Point lighthouse at the entrance to Port Antonio harbor. Inside of five minutes after the steamer passes between Titchfield H.ll and Bakers Island, and after a voyage of over sixteen hundred miles, the passengers are landed at the foot of a hill Ashort circling drive brings one to the top of the hill, where will stand the new hotel, a show place of American enter- prise, from which point an extended and unobstructed view of water and mountains can be had on every side h ■^.'^'V^^u^Tur.fj '""^ "^'" P"""'"" °^ '^' "^""^ ^°"^"' ^'^'^^ '^ *° ^^ '^ft and used as an annex to the new building, the old Titchfield Hotel has been torn down, and the new structure containing two hundred sleeping rooms with sixty private baths will occupy its site. Starting with a foundation of concrete, the whole basement will be laid with three inches of cement, making it sanitary in every way. On the first floor will be found the kitchen, and to the right the dining room finished in blue and white, will have a seating capacity of three hundred people. There wilfalso be a dining piazza which will easily accommodate one hundred and fifty people. Dining out-of-doors is a great feature of life in Jamaica and is especially popular among the tourists. The foyer, with trimmings of natural oak stained green, will be over eighty feet long and in his space will be located the cable office, post-office, general office, and a large room for curios. To the left woi be the ladies reception room, twenty-six by fifty-four, and finished in green and white. Opening from the ladies' reception room IS a ladies writing room, which will be furnished in blue and white, and immediately adjoining will be a small private (26) HOTEL TITCHFIELD, PORT ANTONIO parlor to be done in rose and gold. Connecting v/ith the ladies' reception room will be the ball room, fifty by sixty. In the left wing will be a large billiard and amusement room, which will contain American billiards, pool, bagatelle and Eng- lish billiards. The center wing will bs used for the gentlemen's reading room, bureau of information, barber shop, lavato- ries and Dutch room. The height of the ceiling on the first floor will be fourteen feet, and the piazza, stretching along three sides of the house, will be over eight hundred feet in length and from sixteen to twenty-six feet in width. The floors will be of hardwood throughout ; the hotel will be completely lighted by electricity, have its own cold storage, plunger elevator, and every contrivance suited to the needs of a modern hostelry. Special attention will be paid to carrying out everything (28) in harmony with the tropical climate. The rooms, which are all large and airy, will have two windows and a fine view of the water. The door of every sleeping room will be made of lattice, so as to allow a free circulation of air, and the build- ing will be screened from top to bottom. The Hotel Titchfield is named for the Marquis of Titchfield, whose son, the Duke of Portland, did a great deal for the island of Jamaica, and the inhabitants, wishing to honor their benefactor, named one of the parishes after him, the Parish of Portland, in which Port Antonio is located. The Titchfield coat of arms, which will be used upon the stationery, linen, and china, shows the two branches of the House, Cavendish- Bentinck. No one can appreciate the delightful location which has been decided upon for this hotel without making the trip to Jamaica himself, nor can he form any idea of the wealth of tropical scenery and the grandeur of each outlook until he visits the island and receives his own impression. The rich coloring of the trees and flowers, which are continually fresh and green, owing to the frequent showers, is in every way a marvel to the traveler, who leaves Boston, New York, or Philadelphia on a cold winter's morning and four days afterward wakes up in midsummer. Situated on the hilltop of the slender penin- sula shown in the accompanying picture, the hotel with its broad piazzas and lofty cupolas will in time shade thousands of tourists, who can here rest and look into the Caribbean Sea. (29; , t^ingshn e/cpST^ level fifingsnyj. via Ha/n^/Tive- 10 King's House- t^o King's HoUSc 10 Hope Gmr7 -R MOfiecsgi^^: Amup. G/os • OcJto /?/os ■» /?oaf>ng ^Us (ofTfrxfa) toncl /S Roaring Pails -!o 3t: Jinn's Bay : IG ^ Ann's Bay 'Z> Runaway Bay: /J ^unatvay Bay 'ib ra/moi/m- tQ Gur^away BaylS Brown^To^n: DISTANCE : Mi/cs- &3 11.0 ue £.2 2./ se e.o s.o no XMg H. m. I -JO. hdO. so. /'SO. too t-30. aoLj-r^ : OlSTrAKir-^ T/Me Mi/OS. 260 22.-7 32,0 /9 B/Vwn^7dkV/7 - STewsn^^lown — Fa/moom i dawn 20 f^ltrioC^Tti "K> A/hrffe-^o Bay: f&vsf- good. 2/ Monl^go Bcty~T& Lucsis: •f^0&~- /eve/. 22 MorTTcQO Bay ~B MonTpotior' (3m.t4phlt/) 23 MorVpelier - ojT Sht^Wewooc^ S'std^ road- good 2J tVii/iamsfiold li? Manido\fil/G> utp. 25 Ms>ndev/ll& "» liVitliamane:et'^ down. 76 tViiliamsifis/d — /=c-yus — CfarGi^on Rark- ^?».down.< 2-j Claivnaon FfrK X> Milk C?iver Bifths' rougn-aown 2S Milk f?i\/er Baths- /^xx^CtDcerso-Ntayfipr}- /ei-et. 29 Ma/PiTn "» Spxsr)isti7b^/n' , good- /eve/ 30 KingsJon-G$nsBr>rSprings-CaSTi^lcint^uzicne.(//m.up,&mek?ivn) /go 3/ Ca&Tl^mn To Ann^^jrta Bay: (-Jm do^/n.Jm./cvcl) 32 Af^noTTa Bay 7& PorT ^nJonioi (ZMl/s) good. 33 Po^ Anfbnio 73 MancHionca/: iBir— /ctnf/ 3d MarK;/n:onca/ "E> B -jSir— >sve/. e.o S.B £3 lO.S 12 S 237 //.O 300 220 10. Al.O n m. 3-00- Z'30. 2-/5. t~30. 1-00. Is/S. 1-30. 3r30. 3rOO. 2-fS 1-00. 3-20. 2-30- 2-00. 4--/S. f:>oQ-r AI^TOM/O '-rmzr/-tf=^,^i_ci.' AA^cmcAf /^/MSST-Ofs/ " l^'V'l9-ri_E BAr-JK' 'i^^/PK: iXioQB' tvir>f-j-r¥='EL.ieiS • — ■ "/■^or-.j-r^Ei_iEis^ M^/^aE^/t.i.£ •. 'e/?oo«"^' Mss Ha///akry» A 0(_,^Tj=- ^^yX Mrs. O-OS-fii^^ GA-rt-t so/A/^^t Mrs. Ooifffs^ K4II.KI9IVKB 0.arrMttK Anr^. osrrrX s-r ^f^f^'e G.A-r* Mn^ Mc/rTJosriK • Mr^. Harrlaot^ K 4.A.^ct/~i-^v>t A^rs. .Jcrcot3»yt. ervrvnsT/iiw K lOdgin0& ana BoaitSin^ t^ouevs. ShUdiTiorj' SOOO mUe^ SixJifT-m^sr of England, 100 miles l^*^srf oT' &ir) Domingo; 90 miles SOiJP? ofClfta; /5BS miles SotJIh -^m BoSKx and l-^OB mi/es Soijfh '^ftm Philae^^/pkji^i. ^ Lort^Tf? of /sianc* : /J J miles. Gnet:^^&t tv/dl^: Lisa^ iwkfTh : S/.S /yii/cs. Anea: 2,092, se- Hig/io&r P^ak ! BIug MourTTai'n , e/evoTton P0j:>i.^/iiPori:(£sf./300.)i^'h1riS IJ.JS2; Colored eSS. Ban/CG, Colon/a/ and BonK of^ A/ovcr SimsT/i Money Valuer-. One^ poi^riet n-«-3^- /; itc/dfT, ee'9.iiv^ on ~^'fd ctas^-fhk^r. 3d. cTtra 7W- C'aci^ addifiorya/ fS mile^. Cot^^fy Boi^ric^^r/e'S: arv s-/tc»*'/7 on n7a/o'mus- ' — Parisin Boundaries ~ffnd^ : fSai/tuays:^' " '> i^ai/way S^IS»f}'ons'-^~ Ma/h Rooe^s-: u ■ ^ l l .. 7dM-?e anct \//lla0e^ £'/ei/SPons above S^a le^/ei /n-/B^'ffrus: -jsdf tZod; S2»d &c. •f ^^ „-^' <'•" valley around a high and precipitous cliff, and follows the course of the river for some three miles, when it comes to a broadening of the water and is forded by the carriages. At this point it is spanned for foot passengers by a most beautifully constructed suspension bridge. The magnificent color of the water, which is of an indescribable green, the reflection of the bridge and the disposition of the mountains rising one beyond the other in the blue distance make this spot one to linger long in memory. There is nothing in Jamaica to quite equal it. It is a charming spot to stop for lunch, and the tourist should cross the bridge on foot and rejoin the carriage on the farther side. From this point on the scenery grows superb. At several points, far down in the bed of the river will be seen remarkably picturesque bamboo bridges, constructed by the natives. They will be overlooked unless a sharp eye is kept out for them ; but once seen, it is well worth the while to leave the road and climb down to the bed of the river and in- spect them at close range, when the absolute uniqueness of them will be appreciated. Some few miles farther on, and the isolated, quaint Jigger- Foot market is reached, standing close beside the road, on the river's bank, and the center, on Saturday, of the rural populaticn fcr several miles around here, who rarely leave this, their native valley. In fact the people here are in an absolutely un- spoiled condition, and the change from the ""■-■'^i^^^; ■ ' ■ attitude of the population in the larger towns as regards the tourists is refreshing. After leaving the market, the culmi- nating grandeur of the trip begins. The road now becomes less traveled, the curves are more abrupt, and the grade heavier. At places the road may be seen in two and three tiers above on the mountain side, and there are several places where con- versation may be held between parties separated by about three hundred feet of space, and yet ten minutes apart by the road. There are places here where the ravine drops five hundred feet sheer down THE COAST ROAD AT PORT MARIA (35) from the road and where the turns are so sharp the leading horse of a tandem would be out of sight of the carriage in making the turn. Beautiful waterfalls come down the mountain side, and passing under the road in most beautiful cascades, throw a continual shower of spray over the banana leaves and fronds of the palms which overhang everything. Far up the mountain side the banana cultivation extends, growing in places where it seems almost impossible that the foot of man could obtain a hold, much less that he could reach and harvest the fruit. Beautiful clumps of bamboo are interspersed over the mountairi.igidg^,.^;appearing in the distance like great bunches of ostrich feathers. Depending from the cliffs ;along the road are masses of begonias, all alight with blossoms, making the fingers itch U^with the desire to pick them. Finally, at a distance of fourteen miles from the entrance, you arrive at the summit of the pass, and obtain a view of the island sheer to the sea on both sides which is so grand that any description of it •.y would convey no idea to the traveler of the sight in store for him. Kingston, twenty miles away, lies at your feet, with all the coun- try intervening, and on the other side, an equally, ex- II— — — I— ___^^_ _u«— »^ - tended view to the north shore. The return is - /^^^KwilliiMllP^ii^BH^BK/iWi^Ky «W ' j. ,. - ,-^. now made, after a short rest. The view ,..\aai^ —mna^^m^^^^^^^mma^^ms^ t^m. ^sat " ** "^ ■ -w™"*™';^!"* " a^^f,,-^ on the homeward trip will be found *.^i>,, fully as interesting and de- lightful, and on arriving t Buff Bay in time to take the afternoon ^=" train to Port Antonio he would be a hard- ^ened traveler indeed who could have any- thing but unstinted praise of this outing. -WASHERWOMEN OF PORT ANTONIO (36) At Bowden, situated on the extreme easterly end of the island, will be found a number of cottages built for the accommodation of tourists who desire absolute quiet, or who wish to indulge in the fishing and shooting to be found in this quiet, land-locked harbor. A beautiful road runs from Port Antonio, and on the way the traveler can take in the delightful little town of Bath, once the fashionable spa of Jamaica, and the location of the first botanical garden on the island, which was established in 1774. It will be found a beautiful road to Bath, absolutely level, and without a break. The baths are about one and one half miles from the town and will be found in charge of an attendant, who will place every facility at one's disposal. Should it be desired, a bridle path will be found here, which takes one up to the wonderful Cuna Cuna Pass of the Blue Mountains, a ride of great interest, and which comes out by way of the Rio Grande to Port Antonio, passing through the Maroon settlement at Mooretown. From here into Port Antonio the drive is one of unalloyed delight. If taken on Saturday, a stop of a half hour or more can profitably be made at the Golden Vale Ford, as on that day there will be found a constant procession of donkeys and natives fording the river, and laden with every commodity possible to conceive. How some of the animals come across with their loads intact is a mystery, but evidently long practice has brought the act to perfection It certainly affords a picture to delight the eye of an artist, — the animated shallow river bed, overhung with bamboo and palms, with the beautiful peaks of the Blue Mountains rising far in the distance. From all the cliffs on the road hang resplendent tropical flowers of every description, and render this drive one of the most popular on the easterly end of the island. For lovers of horseback riding, a delightful early morning canter out of Port Antonio is the run to Shot-Over, so-called. The trip is over a winding way through the mountains and comes out on the top of one of the foot-hills overlooking the town and harbor, affording a most extensive view, and one which is rendered doubly charming by reason of the early-morning effects to be obtained as one gains the summit. Especially will this be the case should the traveler be so fortunate as to be greeted by a tropical sunrise. Through the beautiful Jamaica clouds, change succeeds change so rapidly as to be almost bewildering, and the colors of the sky and mountains must be seen to be appreciated. (37) A GROUP OF NEW ARRIVALS '^ 4\.i^\ ONE OF THE UNITED FRUIT COMPANY'S "ADMIRAL" STEAMSHIPS THE OLD FORTUNE TELLER OF 'WILLIAMSFIELD MAIN DECK U^ MAIN DECK Cabin Plans of United Fruit Go's " Admiral " Steamships. G. B. WEBSrER & CO., BOSTON, MASS. OCT 31 1904 **.4 ^' ^: J ^.^ i ."^^ -^