T T no fflie ^feedle and §himUt, .K5%'^^' i ^t^^ vc* ~ *\ \\v|€) LIBRARY OF CONGtttbi;. mptjf. §apir'm,hii'^a, Shelf .K 5 *£> y UMTLD STATED OF AMERICA. ILLUSTEATED. SEWING PEIMEE, WITH SOJ^GS AND MUSIC. FOE SCHOOLS AISTD FAMILIES. ^J^.i I ^ AERANaElK BY ^ LOlflSE J. KIBKWOOS), "wix^soisr z 3sr X) TJ s 1? lEi, I .A. Xj school, 125 St. Mark's Plaosition. 46. Wiat is the rule for fine running? Take up two threads and skip two. FELLING. * A fell seam, showing the first line of sewing finished, the edges turned under and partly hemmed. 47. How must a fell seam he hasted and sewed ? With one edge of the garment above the other and * See Song — Try, Try, page 34. IS STITCHING AND BACK STITCHING. sewed with the grain of the muslin ; thus, a chemise from the bottom up, and drawers from the top down. 48. How should the seam he sewed f With one backstitch and one running stitch, and then hemmed down neatly. 40. When is a fell seam well done? When it is narrow, very evenly turned under and carefully sewed. STITCHING AND BACKSTITCHING. BackstitcLing, showing the needle in position. 50. What is the difference between stitching and backstitch- ingf In stitching the stitches meet ; in backs titching there is a space between. The manner of taking the stitches is the same in each. GATHERING. 19 51. Give a rule for stitching f After the thread is drawn through to the right side, take the point of the needle back two threads and pass it under two before, and so on, making each new stitch meet the one behind it. GATHEKING. oiniriJOiLiciuL Showing gathering stitches, with the thread drawn and the needle in position. 52. How shoidd work he prepared for gathering f It should be divided in halves, and if a long piece, in quarters, placing a pin to mark each division. 53. What next f Take a little coarser thread than is used for the sewing, put a knot in the end, and begin to gather a little distance from the edge of the cloth. 54. Hoio long a thread should he used f A piece a little longer than the part the gathering- is to be fastened to. 55. Wliere hegin to gather f About a quarter of an inch or less below the raw edge (see cut). If the edge is to be turned down, gather nearer to the turned edge. 20 OVEKCASTIXa. 56. What is tlie rule for gathering ? Take up two threads and skip four threads. 57. What should he done after tlie work is gathered f Place the gathers. 58. How? Draw lip the gathering thread tightly and fasten it by twisting it around a pin, and place every gather straight with the point of a coarse needle. 59. How mai/ tlie gathers he sewed to a hand ? Each gather should be either hemmed, back- stitched, or overhanded to the band or part, as the case requires. OVERCASTING. r -JbN. .?^ v^vxx^^^rv Showing overcasting stitches, witlr the needle in position. 60. What are overcasting stitches ? Loose over-and-over stitches taken over the raw edges of a seam. 61. How should seams he made ready for overcasting f They should be evenly trimmed ^vith the scissors. 62. Wliat should overcasting stitches he ? They should be easy, slanting, even, and not too close or too deep. BUTTONHOLES. 21 0,>Uiv ;y V/ '■ 1 1 1 111 I M 1 111 111 111 1 1 1 ^4— ""'" " Showing a but tou hole overcast and barred, and the button- hole stitches besruu. Buttouhole for an outside gar- ment. The stitches in this cut are shown only by a single line. BUTTONHOLES. 63. Hoiv sliould a buttonhole be cut ? Long enougli to reach across the middle of the button. 64. How should a buttonhole be held for working f Along the first finger, lengthwise. 65. How should a buttonhole be begun f By overcasting closely and barring the sides. 66. Where should one begin to ivorh a buttonhole f At the bottom of the left-hand side. 67. Hoiv is the buttonhole stitch made f By passing the thread around the needle after the stitch is taken. 22 HEEEINGBONE AND FEATHEK STITCH. 68. How closely should a buttonhole be worked ? With a stitch between every other thread. 69. How can the stitches be kept even along the sides ? By worlving the stitches evenly by a thread. 70. Give a general rule for making a buttonhole f. For undergarments make six stitches in each end, that it may be strong and even. For outside gar- ments make the head of the buttonhole round by cutting out a small piece, that the button may lit nicely. The foot of the buttonhole should be finished with a small buttonhole bar. HERRINGBONE AND FEATHER STITCH. Herringbone stitches. Featlier stitches. 71. On what is herringbone and feather stitch used? On flannels and other woolen cloths, to sew down the hems and over the seams-. PATCHING AND DARNING. 23 72. What is very im])ortant in sewing ? To make the stitches small, even, and close, to conceal the knots when needful to make them, and to finish the work neatly. 73. When is work ivell finished f When it is neat and clean, the stitches firm and even, and all the threads well fastened. "^^ 74. How many hinds of stitcJies are put upon a simple calico dress f t There are eight kinds of stitches needed on such a dress : The breadths of the skirt are run and haclf,- stltched together ; it is hemmed at the bottom ; it is gathered at the top ; it is overhanded to the waist ; the shoulder and side seams of the waist are stitched together ; there are buttonholes worked in it, and the seams are overcast. PATCHING AND DARNING. ^V \ 1 I 111 I ! 1 / V c"^ i\ V I i ! : ( 1 ,1 ,'i ■ o if i I I I \j ^ Showing a patch darned in. * See Song — Fasten the Thread, page 55. t It makes a pleasant variety sometimes for small children to answer this in concert, pointing ont on the dresses they wear the different lines of sewing as they are named. 24 PUTTING AWAY WOKK, " D n Q DD a .»> Stockins: dam. A tear darned. 75. Hotv sliould every one's ivardrohe he kept f Neatly mended. A patch nicely put in or a careful darn is an ornament, where a hole would be a disgrace. * PUTTING AWAY W^OKK. 76. When the time is past for sewing y Iww should work he put away f It should be folded neatly and laid in a drawer or closet, where it will not get dusty. 77. Wlien is a workbasJcet in perfect order ? When the spools are all in a box or bag, with the ends of the threads fastened, the needle-book tied up, the scissors in their cases, and no articles in it but those needful for sewing. Solomon's industrious woman. ^' She seeketh wool and flax, and worketh willing-ly ^vith her hands. She is not afraid of the snow for her household, for all her household are clothed in scarlet. She maketli herself coverings of tapestry; her elothing is silk and purple. She maketh fine linen and selleth it, and delivereth girdles to the merchants. Strength and honor are her clothing, and she shall rejoice in time to come." — Prov. xxxi, 13, 21, 22, 24, 25. KJ^ITTING. 2o WlieTi daylight is flitting", We take up our knitting. 2C ABOUT DRESSES — WOVEN FABRICS. ABOUT DRESSES. 78. How sJtouId a child's dresses he made ? Well fitting, but tliey should be plain and neat. 79. What dress materials are best for little girls who help their mothers with housework at home f Either calico or gingham. 80. Wht/f Because they can be washed, and so may always be fresh and clean. 81. Is it best to choose very dark colors f No ; they do not always wash the best, and are apt to be worn after they are really dirty. 82. What should be looked for in choosing a calico home dress f A firmly woven fabric, with groundwork well covered by the pattern. 83. Are mixed fancy goods woven of cotton and ivool, silk and wool, etc., the best to wear f 'No ; usually the most serviceable are woven all of one material. 84. What materials are good to buy for aproyis ? Calico, gingham, and barred muslin. WOVEN FABRICS. 85. Of what are all woven goods made f Out of spun yarn, either of silk, wool, flax, cotton, hemp, or jute. WOVEN FABKIOS. 2T 86. From what do we get silk f From tlie cocoon spun by the silk- worm. 87. From what do we get wool f From the sheep' s coat. 88. Name some goods woven of wool f Flannel, merino, cashmere, cassimere, etc. 89. Ofivhat are linen goods made ? Of flax, taken from the flax plant. 90. Name some articles in common use that should always he made of linen ? Collars, cufls, shirt bosoms, jDOckefc handker- chiefs, towels, table cloths, and napkins. 91. From what do ive get cotton f From the cotton plant. 92. Name some goods ivoven out of cotton f Muslin, cambric, gingham, calico, lawn, and bed- ticking. 93. Name some articles we make out of cotton cloth? Dresses, aprons, all undergarments, sheets, and pillow-slips. THE PATCHWORK gUlLT. Words bv A. W. K. Music, ''Old Noah: HiziA: ^~ \ \ V K. -- i -N ~\ M- ' 1 IL S- iS- ' « •> ! 1 iS^ _^ _ A ' * %«' 9 -•- t ^ 9 t* .*»— 1. Ma - ry made a patch-work qiult, o - ho, o - Bi^- —0^ 9 I N > ■" ^ •F- gp' 9. 9 9 9 1 1 1 =5 S £ -J- ^ w i • » 9 9 ~9 9 9 9 J — I — ^- 1 J^ 9 * - , ■ ^-E^ — *- -a- .fcztEEE ho, Ma - ry made a patcli-work quilt, o - ho, o - SI N N I !_ ! ^ \^ '• 1 ^- I 9-,-9—0- -9 9~9 -0——0- :^±t*E3 p ^T^ 17 ^ • * .& 9.^0 - — - 99 -^ - 9 e ''' ' 999 1 i> ' ly iy # 1 \^ 1/ 1 . '^ ■ Yj Yj U 1 1 , > : 1 ho, Of prettiest col - ors it ' 1^ I is made. And ill the prettiest :r=g ^*— '=*:tt2- -'r y » » - i> « « « 1 i ^-^ 1 J l> u<' ly !/ 1 ij i t/ 2^ i U' l; z. ^1 * < g^l pat-tern In 1(1, And Oh how gay is Mary's patch-wcrK quilt. s ii. N S ^S I zvzl^4^T:z:r^f#I=^=szz^p=:rL€:E THi: PATCHWORK QUILT. 29 THE PATCHWORK QUILT. Mary made a patchwork quilt, oho, oho, O Mary made a patchwork quilt, oho, oho, Of prettiest colors it is made. And in the prettiest pattern laid, And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt Mary's quilt is soft and warm, oho, oho, O Mary's quilt is soft and warm, oho, oho, All lined with cotton fleecy white, To keep the cold out well at night, And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt ! The girls who learn to knit and sew, oho, oho, The girls who learn to knit and sew, oho, oho. Will make the household warm and bright, And fill the home with cheer and light, And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt ! KATY DID. Words by A. W. K. .2 1 , ^ 1^ . 1^ 13. -* — • •• — .g. — S — ^* • — ^: — 5- Music froui Carol, by pertnission of Ivison, Taylor, Blakeman dr" Co. „_j_ -^ •- a- Poor uii - hap - py lit - tie Ka - tie, Sit - ting all a - lone, Eg=d^E^3^ :i— ' :=?5: i^vzzr^i ?^ -js- Tears up - on her face, and sad - ly Sounds her troubled moan. ■ S5 m » — —m a~A ^^ 1 -i»^ — \ plsi? -=^ :=?^ 3lT=qz: V 2c?. Ka - tie tore it, tore her dot - ted dress of snow-y lawn, Ka - tie tore it, tore her dot - ted dress of sno\v-y lawn, ^= *- — iSrr:« g 1* 9- Yi'S, she did, Ka - ty did, Ka - ty did - n't, Ka-ty did - n't, & -•- -?■ (^*ii _ — «w 9 a * "■ 1^ ^ ^ H ^ p r.11 ;«^=ie=:p=:5rb S: L — ^ — ^ — ^ — rjv— =k — \ ^ Ka-ty did, Ka-ty did -n't, Ka-ty did- -she did. - - - - - - - ^ :i KATY DID. 31 KATY DID. Poor unhappy little Katie, Sitting all alone, Tears upon lier face, and sadly Sounds her troubled moan. Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; Chorus. — Yes, she did, Katy did, Katydid'nt, Katy didn't, Katy did, Katj^ didn't, Katy did — she did. Zephyrs, hush, and hush, you Rover, Never tell the tale Of the race that Kittie led you, Over hill and dale. Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawnj Chorus. — l''es, she did, etc. Cheer up, cheer up, little maiden, Cease your tears to spend ; See, this shining little needle Soon the rent will mend. Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine ; Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle iinej Chorus. — Yes, she did, etc. Never, never mind them, Katie, You so well can sew j When the tear is neatly mended^ None will ever know. Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close "with needle fine 5 Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine ; Chorus. — Yes, she did, etc. Words by A. W. K. LITTLE JENNY. Music by permission of IVni. A. Po7td &^ Co., 0W7iers of the Copyright, -9- '9 — ~9 — -9 9 bu - s> -»^-fs- -^ # :.-— ^ lit - tie Jen - ny, Sit - tul^• ver - y — 9- — N— *: '9~ V— L-« * 1 0- f— I- — 1— ' m 9 1 nee -9 die, -9- "tf~ * \ e '~ i -!i*-- Working' M'itli a — tf« Iff: ri; N ^s ^s ^^__i. -5— h« 9 9 9 - -f' p^ 9^ 9, 0- -9 — ^9 9 9 a- ^ ~ r — T i — ^ — irrii will, How pink her lit - tie fin i9^pfel #-«- «-U^ .9 *. L -9— :w7.tz gers, Nails a rim of — K-9 — 1 9 # — \-9 -0 — ^- pfe-?~ 1 0— -9 —9 — ! 9- z-^^9 -=^- 1 e— ^ i-^ _:^ :^ ^z -9—f tr ±: - I) _UL_y_ -V "^ / 9 '9 ^ p.^arl, Hold your nee-dle stea - dy To thread my lit-tle girl. "^"-iiSizr*" * — ^— - LITTLE JENNY. 33 LITTLE JENNY. O busy little Jenny, Sitting very still, Holding fast lier needle, Working mtli a mil. How pink lier little fingers ! Nails a rim of pearl. Hold your needle steady , To thread, my little arirL So kind to all her schoolmates, Gentle in her play 5 Whether rain or sunshine, In her seat each day. 0, smiling little Jenny, In her gingham dress, Is the happiest maiden In her class, I guess. TRY, O TRY. Words by L. J. K, ii^H^ Air — " Buy a hraant." O stitcb-inir is witch - iiiir, And hemming as well, But Z-ITtJ :i=; r=:si^ :Si -[==t: ^ e :=i=ir : ff . * ei what is dis - tress - iui a fell. Till Is turn - inir Pi=?: g=t: P^^g^^l sick of such seeming, And rea-dy to cry, But I hear the word =^=; •g~ »~a«. f=i: ■=gi--^^p=— :^_ .-]-- ^ > > , ^ :*-^->- -^-i-— -- ^ — - — » — ^ — ringing. Try, I 1 1 ^3 — * — ^ — ^ — lit- 1 A ! 9 9 tie one, try. 1 » 9 — Try, 1 f^ A. \ IS.. ^■09 Try, 1^ , 1^=^ t=]= f= ^ :S— " --A -gj- -^- SJ- '-^i^^^TS -'=±=d=i=t?= Si — ff-»-ti» - — ^— ■; 1 9 g y :1=;3; :±: try, I hear the word ring-ing. Try, lit - tie one, try. J=t ii=tr TRY, O TRY TRY, TRY. stitching is witching, And hemming as well, But what is distressing Is turning a fell. I'm sick of such seaming, And ready to cry, But I hear the word ringing, " Try, little one, try ; Try, try; try, try;" I hear the word ringing, '' Try, little one, try." And so I am striving, As hard as can be. To keep back my crying, Just so I can see. And may be mth helping, At last I shall leani The worst fringy edges Most neatly to turn. ^'Try, try; try, try;' I hear, etc. THE WORK FOR ME. Words by L. J. K. nii Music, "O, Susanna. -^ ^-T -N — 1. 'Tis fun to dance and skip and run, Who a ^ -I -^ N N-j — r^ ^ — -*- « loves it more than we, m- -0— 0— ->,-- Good fun it is to 1 just can have the Tr N— T— N ^ K N—i FINE. sweep and dust, And ti - died up to nic - est time, AVith sew - ing on my be. knee. \'^M]f — 0- — y y- is— - D.S. But my sev\'-ing, Tliafs tlie work for me. i ' . 0. _, 1 ■0 0- STITCHING WITH THREAD AND NEEDLE. Words by A. W. K. , — * — » - ^^— K M7isic fro7n ^''Gospel Hymns.'* By permisst07i of Big low 6^ Main. «=S-+-^- -J- -0, — 9' — I ^- & -e — L_i2- -^ — p- I 1, Stitcliiiig with thread and nee - die, Holding my work with care, . -^ -^ ■#-•«- ^ ^, « . -(2. I=i: ^F=F :g= (^^ N_ N \ ^^-.^ I \ 1 € • — — « 0, — !_ - -_ , 1 1 1 1 1 — — ck 1 —0 ^—^—^ ,— L- ^ Just like a grown up la --|V-JV-->^-|V -m — — « — 0— '# — if ' ^— — 1&— dy, I sit in my ti - ny chair. m -i9- i9- r- ^iil 2 Now I can make my stitches All in an even row, And tirmly as if they grew there, I make them stay, you know. 3 Yes, indeed, I am busy. Busy as I can be, My work is not half finished, It must be done, you see. 4 Seams must be straight and even, Never a knot be seen; Hems all nicely folded. And kept so neat and clean. 5 'Twill soon be time for recess. Then we go out to pkw. I've worked so hard I'm tired, Please put my work away. DEAR LITTLE GIRL. Wods by L. J. K. Music Selected. ■M^ T wt -^{ N- 9 9 9 -9- -V -W :^ _.-_^_ K— 9 — — 9 — i -^ ■ v^ ■1- -.»• ' * * 1 A dear lit - Lie i;-irl, Sat low lit my knee, And ^ h h h 1 h 1 h R:i^ — ii— _^_ • ^ • P* tf 9 ..9 ff ff 5^ *w • izt^n V V '^ U _J*_ 9 f P " J \ — 1 ^ P P P r-'-N- -g— ^-N- what do you think She was sew - ing JL ^ JB. ^ ^ JL ^:3 — ' for me ? A , C ^ i'^ N ,S f», ' 1 — i— - N ^ - N -I 1 — ^ — v^L * ' '' tf ' 9 9 ' « 9 v^ 1/ ^^: y — lit - tie patch i 9 Of -9- ~9- red and -*^ -ar of white, And : ' 9 — y i^ 1- P : 9 #— - 9 * 9 L y y f — ^ 1 9=; lit - tie stich She set just ri_i;-ht -9 9 9 9 — I 9 w — -i — -9- f — I -J-*?— gaps DEAR LITTLE GIRL. 39 DEAR LITTLE OIRL. A dear little girl Sat low at my knee, And wliat do you think She was sewing for me I A gay little patch Of red and of white^ And each little stitch She set just right — -jost right, A scons of bright girls Sat full in my sio-ht. And the garments they sewed Were dainty and white. The stitches they made Were tiny and strong, And humming, they worked. To low, sweet song — sweet song. i**J^ot lambs in the field, Nor birds in the tree, In all their delight, Can happier be Than they, who their work ^J.^'hus mingled mth song, As hours glide smoothly And gayly along — along. SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. Words by L. J. K. N-, i Music Selected. i^^t =i -J 1 l^f_J- -0 *- 1. swift fly - ing nee - die, Stitching to song, Through 9=i-f . » c , bEEEE .0 #_ zqzzszzgizq mus - lin and lin en, Speed you a "m » T — *- drr:i ' - ^-^ a- —<^—^^ — ^ :±: . I — — -J 1_ =3^^ long. So much is to do, 5^|i V W 1 : ^- Quiclv yon must be, Worlc =Ez3 i ._b_i{_!*_«'. lESEE I shall be well done, By you and by me. m s— — — 1 1 1 lJe^^ SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. 41 SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. O swift flying needle, Stitching to song, Through muslin and linen, Speed you along. So much is to do, Quick you must be. Work shall be well done By you and by me. Fingers so snowy white, Daintily clean; Stitches so small and light, Scarcely are seen. Over and under The thread we will take, Running and felling The garments we make. One little rule Must ne'er be forgot: Hide like a secret Each little knot. Thus active and lively At work and at play, We must grow mser And better each day. THE IDLE GIRL'S SERENADE. Words by G B D. ?=F*: Air--" Uncle Ned." -\-=i- -5* — k s«?zn:sz=;r:^! ! i There is an i - die girl, her name is l.i - zy Jane, She's a ■a- . 0- o- -% -%■ -g- -SI- . o- -a -2- .S3- -«'. &^;=:?f:=h-'^3i=:»=;*z=:tig-=r:-=zi*=rb*-i-«ii=»=zi:« *— - — » =: >^-j— ?=E^=j=^-^=^r —I ' ^ vl 1— ^ ^— - :f?: ^. dunce long- a - go. long a - 'j:o, At books, at work, and at i^EE^z :t: EE5^^S jjlay all tlie same, She is la - z\' and i - die and slow. -^^E^i Chorus. —-IS ^5,. — m— — js — .iv. — iv — v., -J— .-^^ fe-^- — A •— ;— « — » m—\—^ — i — 5 hS-J— S m ! — V^ — ft—* — m Put a - v.'ay the uee-cUe and thread. Cio without supper to bed, O -S- ' S- S- -S- • S- S- -S- -"P- -«■ -• . -»• -«- -«'- -(^- «>- •---• — « — » — — &, — i — «> — l-i*-T-» • • — h*^ — /- -• — 5^E^ r- la - zy Jane, How can you ever learn, While you i-dle and tn - fle so? S- o- -&■ €9- . m- ••- -• • -•• -"S- ■m- ■«■ ■$. -e. -» -0- 0' ±IZ=t :^ - — ^- -1-0 0-T-*- 1 1?— ^- THE IDLE girl's SERENADE. 43 THE IDLE GIRL'S SERENADE. T'here is an idle girl, her name is lazy Jane, She's a dunce long ago, long ago, At hooks, at work, and at play all the same, She is lazy and idle and slow. Chorus — Put away the needle and thread, Gro without supper to bed. Oh, lazy Jane, how can you ever learn, While you idle and trifle so ? Her clothes are all hanging in tatters and rags, Her dress, oh, it is not very clean ; The buttons are all off her cloak and her shoes j Her sacque isn't fit to be seen. Chorus. Her hau' is uncombed from morning till niglit ; Her apron is hanging in rags ; Her face and her hands for dirt are a sight. Her hood all in tatters and ta^-s. Chorus STITCHING FIRM AND FAST. Words by S. T. S. — K- -^-— b- — K- ~9 — : -IS IS- -^: -0 1. Stitching now so tirm and fast; For what we ^^ :z:i=?: -ft. .-(7- 1 — K— \ r: Sr- .. — K— i^ — ^-1 S^ t =^=:;^^^: .•^ ? ?- ::«m i^ 0~ \<\) * . 0-0 . J make you know nnist last, - ^ But if it's wrong ^ we take it JE. ' ^V^ -a — % % -0 — » '» a > 1 J L/ i^ > •• > ^ 9- ^■^^■■ :^- :^=^: '0 Tg- "^m out, For we must mind what we're a - - ^ - bout. — fi — w m m , , # L^ / ;si 8TircHma fikm and fast. 45 STITCHING FIRM AND FAST. SELECTED. Stitching now so firm and fast ; For what we make you know must last, But if it's wrong' we take it out ; For we must mind what we're about. All kinds of sewing we must do, And keep our garments tidy too, • Our needles straight, and sharp, and bright, And cotton clean, and fresh, and white. We put all idle thoughts away. It's time for work and not for play ; So we stitch, and hem, and run, And finish what is once begun. Only see our needles fly, For we're taught to always try Not to waste our precious time. For that we know would be a crime. Wordsjby L. J. K OVERHANDIiNG. Air — '' Coming through the Rye" 'A_ — 1^ ^^ ^^k m---m — \-o-m — ; ^ »^ 9 — « — — ^ % 1 — 1^ x — I - ver-luiiuling-, > ^ 1 *» ts> . ^ , 9 - ver-haiid-iiig". Soe me, see me * — « : »— r ^— a- — 0,___0 9 L-B* ^ 1^ 9 <-9 C— V 9 ' -^v t 9 — \-J~x z ^ »^- sew, I Stitch - Hit: 1^ \ e - veil, neat and deft - ly ^ m- tziiz.-=:z;^—-z :i:z^; 3^^ 5.-2 5:::±rHi=S=i=« — s — ^ =tr==i^ As I go, I go. ( Thread grows sliorter. shorter, shorter, ] Make ""a knot, then, shall 1? shall 1 ? m=zK=.z ^ — S- :±rlii_^7r:^__^_^ 9— . — 9*— 9 W^ m -i=^ f -^ — This you know, you know, No, no, no. no, no, ^ fii ^ :b«: -^- zm~ :r^: Take a new one, Leave the end and f bo S J 7^~ — 1 — — ^ -^ •- i r~ t" iS FINE. g^= — « — f- -9 -» 9 : =i-i^ 7 ' S : new one, new one, sew It o- - ver. More to So, so. sew, so, to so, sew. so. ^J^=^^li^^=^^^=ii=iiii OVEKHAISTDING. 47 OVERHANDING. Overhandingj overhanding', See me, see me sew, Stitching' even, neat, and deftly As I go, I go. Thread grows shorter, shorter, shorter, Tliis you know, you know ; Take a new one, new one, new one, More to sew, to sew. Make a knot then shall I ? shall I ? No, no, no, no, no ; Leave the end and sew it over, So, so, so, so, so. Ah, ha, ha, the end I'm reaching. Tell me, tell me, say. Shall I break the thread I'm holding *? Nay, nay, nay, nay, nay. Not until I fasten tightly. Make it stay, stay, stay. Take three stitches going backwards, That's the way, the way. Now I'll snap my thread so closely, None can say, can say have work unneat or careless Done to-day, to-day. Ah, ha, ha, my patch is finished, Oh, ho, ho, ho, ho. Put the thread that bastes it even, So, so, so, so, so J Open now and smooth it nicely. Lay it low, low, low ', Stretch it out and see the stitches. If they show, they show. Look, they stand like tiny soldiers In a row, a row. Strong and neat, so close and even, Thus I sew, I sew. STITCHING AWAY. )»'ords by E. F. L. Air — '''The IVhip-poor-'will."' By permission of O Ditson & Co. >t7-=i— C— « ;i^i^ii =E^=^ M^Z m O stitch a - way brisk - ly and ne;it - ly, And -^''t jj — t — — ^ * « 1^ — i-:J-v— ±— < 1^ ^=3= :ts=2: then we can lias -ten to play, Our snij^ing will sound ve-ry :P=t:2Iii5:31— Fi=S=:Si=-— $=S= It:: k-j^EE^^^^^^^f^^^'^- -^^Jy^^^^j^^^-i ^iz^z^b-J'^s ^=*=^ ^ii^i^zxrzqv: 1 J sweet - ly, Whilst our fin - gers fly swift - ly to - day. For ciziiii 1=3^ :flr=^=:t<: ;::^^v if we are careful in sewnig, And try all our teach-ers to '^-h — -- ^ km * «» w — rS" fe^^l^ 5=?= please, We'll grow to be neat lit - tie maid - ens, S^E :t=S=t, -* — I I ^- -"■ — itzn: Es: ^ri±=6*= STITCHING AWAY.— Concluded. dTT 1^=^ >.— N- i?z=:«z=3i;: :=fcr -=-r ::s=r= — =: Not la - z\' ones, work - iiig- at :S=:=:=[:z:=:^?.-z=rf: ease. -=i — s^T^r i^iii^^; Stitch a- way, ( Echo. } stitch a - way, ( Echo. ) «_ Sew-inir so brisk -Iv and well. our stitch-es Little children should ever l;e tryini; To help their kind mothers at'honie; If watchful. M'e nlways keep finding- Many stitches m clothes of our own. In turninii- a hem we remember The width must be always the same, And the stitches so closely t0£;-ether, That to show them will caule us no shame. We will sew every day for our tencher; " To do our best be our one aim:" Our seams, (ucks and gathers will suit her, If we try to sew alwnvs the same. .Some day we will know the great lesson, A stitch in time saves nine; And now to our play we will hasten. For this is the end of our rhyme. THE STITCHES IN TIME.* Words by L. J. K. Frotn Yali College Songs, by />ertttission of Taititor Brothers, Merrill &= Co. -*- ■-X- r ^S Oh hemming, run-nhig, stitching, felling, - ver-hand - ing, :::s= ii=l -* — -; — o g — \ — ^ — |- ^ — — » — ^^ — » — I » — -«— ^ — ' but -ton - hoi - ing. Darning, gathering, chainstitch, too, We can fEb=:=:t«=:z^i -^. -55 1^ i^_ _js_ >. ^ — t^— — ^-t_|— ^ c — ^ — « — r-^ — *- do them all, you know. Oli, darn - ing, gather-ing, -^ ^^r 1- — 10 ^— 1 •— I 1 — ^ ZIZ^ »— « -I =3EE -->- ~N — II chain-stitch, too. Oh darn-ing, gathering, chainstitch, too, |V & ^ 1^ , s ^ ^ ,^— ^-^ N- — ^ ^^t2:=tJ^z=i^^t*: '-- — 01 » — - — m — ^ — - — S r ■ -_>, K ^S N -lV-r-> --^J'Xjo- p^=S==S=f.^E^=g:EE?EfES=gEE^=E^E^fE^^EpEE Oh, flarn-ing, gath-er - ing, chainstitch, too. We can do them all, you know. _^ ^__f^ ^ ^^ ^ ^^-r-J^ ^i — ^__fe_^_^ ^^__^_ _4-rn * This makes a pretty Exercise song, the motions of which are suggested by the words of each verse. THE STITCHES IN TIMK," 51 <^THE STITCHES IN TIME.'' O hemming, running, stitcliing, felling, Overlianding, buttonholing, Darning, gathering, chainstitcli too. We can do tliem all, you know. Now see liow swiftly om' needles fly, Fu'st set low, then lifted high j In and out how quick they go. Shining brightly as they sew. Fine twisted thread, you haste along, Binding piece to piece so strong, Who can guess where you began, Or the ending find, who can"? Neatly, lightly, swiftly sew. Clicking softly as you go. Shining needle, none shall be Ever better friends than we. STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. Words by A. W. K. K. 1 Music, " IVearing of the Green.''* w. -^ — ^ — ^ — ?»,_ :-^_n_ — >■- r-^-H^— ^— N- — — — 0— -0 —0- 0—0-0—9— 1. Stitching a robe for baby, So soft and white and line, Nev - Stitching a shirt for papa, Gusset and seam and band, Oli, zL\z±=z: 3 *- ±0—fi- 1- * ^ •f — *- -7 — h- ■ M r — n- -te2— =^ - 1 fv 1 A^P-\^ —«— -*r— ^- _# -,•— ? ^ --^ N N N- . ^4^ '^ — —\/— W- -y -^=0— L» — a — — — L^-A er were Stitches small - er Than shall be these of mine, I will do it nice - ly. Hem, fell, and - ver hand. m^ :^_. 1 u;_ W^ ^ I %-% -^j— Hs— ^— K- ->,-H^ J — — ^ — ^:^ — 1 1^ — ; — j — — -^—9—0—^ — 9 La, la, la, la, 9:rb— z— .— r— .- la, la, la, '0 —• -=^ la, la, la, la. la, la, la, ^ * — — ^-J7— 1— ^— ^— L :- -i ^ i ' 1 , ... r:^zrzv=d=r- # tf — — tf ~Ps — ^-^ 1 0—0 — ^_-_-^ — r g — 0' la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la, la. ^^. A- -izzE— 1 : ft H^= i STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. 53 STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. Stitcliing- a robe for baby, So soft and wliite and fine, Never were stitches smaller ' Than shall be these of mine. Stitching a shirt for papa, Grusset and seam and band, Oh, I will do it nicely, Hem, fell, and overhand. La, la la, etc. Stitching a dress for Dolly, With oversku't and basque, And the prettiest little ruffles. What more could Dolly ask? Stitching the soft, red flannel. For the children cold and poor. To keep the nipping fingers Of Jack Frost from the door. La, la, la, etc. 54 riNGEK LESSON. FINGER LESSON. Air — The Whip-poor-xoill, p. 48. Now, fingers, stand up for your lessons j The sliort one, tlie thick one, the tall, Tlie long one must put on tlie thimble ) . The others should wear none at all. But don't think you may ever be idle^ Or guess j^ou'll have nothing to do ; You each must learn to be nimble And do the work fitted for you. Now, tliumb and forefinger, attention ! The needle I put in your care. Short finger, i)oth you and your neighbor To manage the tliread you're tlie pair Left fingers, pay all close attention : No needle or thread I've for you, But what's just as needful in sewing Is what you must every one do. It is very, yes, very important To hold the work even and true, And so you must try to be careful, For this work depends upon you. Ten fingers, you've all had your lessons, I pray you, remember them well ; Let none of you e'er be found napping — How naughty that would be to tell. FASTEN THE THREAD. 55 FASTEN THE THREAD. A.1R— Buy a Broom, without the chox-us, p. 34. Good morning, dear Nellie ! How clean and liow neat- All over joii look, From your liead to your feet ! Pray tell me, is this The dress which you made ? . And this the neat hem. Which you yourself laid ? The stitches are tiny And even, I see, And set in quite closely, Just as they should be. The gathers seem all To be even and straight j But are they sewed firmly ? A minute pray wait. A slight little pull Reveals quite a hole j The threads all begin To twist and to roll. Now, what do you think The matter can be ? That something is wrong Is quite plain to see. Of sewing like this One cannot speak well; Just look at it closely, I think vou can tell. 56 SING AND SEW NBIBLE, NIMBLE. Poor Nellie looked down And blusliingly said, " I think I forirot To fasten the thread." SING AND SEW. Air— Lightly Row. SELECTED. Sing- and sew, sing and sew, Nimbly let our fingers go ; "We should be, we should be Busy as a bee. Here we earn our daily bread With our needles and our thread, Clothing too, clothing too, Nice and Avarm and new. NIMBLE, NIMBLE. SELECTED. Nimble, nimble, tln'ead and needle, Time for work, and not for play, Keep the serving all agoing, Till we put the work away. If the stitches, little witches. Come uneven, pick them out, Double, double, toil and trouble, We must mind what we're about. DRESSMAKING LESSON. * LEARNING TO FIT. LESSON I. PREPAEINU FOR WORK. 1. ^Vhat small trimmings are needed for ever i/ plain basque ? Lining, sleeve lining, tape, hooks and eyes, whale- bones, cord, sewing silk, buttonhole twist, basting cotton, and plenty of pins. 2. What Ivind of lining is best f Linen is the best, because it stretches least. If twilled silesia be used, pull and iron it before cut- ting. 3. How is lining to be pulled F Begin at the upper right-hand comer and stretch it on the bias, every six inches, to the end of the piece ; do the same from the upper left-hand corner, then stretch it on the straight across the goods, then iron. 4. On tvhat shoidd a lining be cut f On an uncovered wooden table, or a lap-board ; never on the lap. * This lesson has been carefully prepared for adyaiiced classes in sew- ing schoolS; and is bere published by permission of Miss S. T. Sands. 58 FITTING FROM THE FIGURE, LESSON II. FITTIISTG FEOM THE FIGURE. 1. What is the first thing to he clone towards fitting a ivaisi f Having tlie lady stand in an easy position, pin the lining, lap allowed to the dress hem ; pin very closely. 2. ]VJiat is the second step f Pin the lining smoothly to the shoulder, cut out the neck, and proceed to fit the darts. 3. What next f Pin the lining under the arm, cut out the armhole, and cut off the shoulder. 4. How do you fit tJie back ? Pin the center fold of the lining to the center of the back, shaping in the seam at the waist, so that the lining will be straight across the back from arm to arm. 5. How do you fit tJie other parts f Pin the shoulders together, cut out the neck, then the armhole, and pin together under the arm. FITTING FROM THE FIGURE. 59 LESSOISr III. FITTING (cOISTTII^UED). 1. How is the side form fitted f After the back is fitted, mark with a pencil the proper shape before taking off the dress ; this line must be carefully creased and cut, then basted with a quarter-inch seam. 2. Will not this make the dach too small f No, because the back of a waist is apt to stretch, and the lining being fitted over a waist is large enough to afford the seam. 3. How much seam should he allowed in different parts f One inch and a half for shoulder and under- arm seams and front lap ; one-quarter inch for back and side forms, unless the goods pull — in that case at least half an inch. 4. Must each dress made for the same person he thus fitted f By no means. After the lining is perfect, cut an exact pattern in stiff brown paj)er, crease every seam, and keep it for an outline model. 60 TRYING ON. LESSON ly. TRYING ON. 1. How should a waist he tried on? Wrong side out ; one side must then be made exact, and the other fitted precisely like it by measurement off the figure ; unless there be a marked deformity, when both sides are fitted on the figure. 2. Hoiv many darts should a dress have f One for a half-fitting, two for a cross-basque seam, three for a perfectly plain waist. 3. How far apart should the darts he? From an inch to an inch and a half at the waist, for the two front ones ; the third midway between them and the under-arm seam. 4. How high should darts run ? They should end exactly at the fullest point of the bust. 5. How does the depth of the dart seams at the waist affect the set of the dress ? If they be taken deep, the bust will be full ; if shallow, narrower. IS'ever let out dart seams to make the dress larger, that only tightens the bust. TRYING ON. 61 LESSON Y. TRYING ON (continued). 1. How long should the shoulder seam he f About seven inches. 2. Wliat effect does taking up the front shoulder seam have f It takes fullness from the bust, and shortens the waist in front. 3. What is the effect of taking up the hack sJwulder seam ? It draws out fullness from the arm-scye, and shortens the waist behind. 4. If the waist lap too much at the throat, what should he done ? The front shoulder seam must be drawn down, this will lower the neck. 5. If the dress he too tight, where must it he let out? In the under-arm seam, and nowhere else, unless the tightness be across the shoulder • then let out the back seam. 6. When ready for the sleeve, how large should the armhole he f From fifteen to eighteen inches, according to the size of the figure. 62 SLEEVES. LESSOJST yi. SLEEVES. 1. How should measure he taken for sleeves? Kaise the arm in the form of a square and measure from the arm-scye to the elbow, thence to the wrist bone, inside the same, the arm being held out straight. Measure the wrist and the thick part of the arm. 2. How is a plain coat sleeve cut f Let the upper be at least one inch and a half larger than the under, and shape it in between the top and the elbow three-quarters of an inch. Full the extra length of the upper in at the elbow. Round the top one inch and a half above the seam, and cut down the under one inch. i3. How should a seam he finished f Turned u]3 one-quarter of an inch, and faced with a bias strip of material one inch wide. 4. How large slwuld a sleeve he at the top f About an inch and a half larger than the armhole ; this fullness must be held in between the shoulder seam and front arm scye. CUTTING THE OUTSIDE. 63 LESSON yii. CUTTIIS^G THE OUTSIDE. 1. In laying on a pattern, what part should come even with the selvedge- of the goods f In the front, the edge of the hem or lap shoiild be exactly even with the selvedge. For the back, pin the neck to the broadest part of the back. The pat- tern should be line with the selvedg-e. ■■&' 2. How should side forms he placed f So that the point of the curve is on a line with the selvedge, and the waist line straight with the grain of the goods. 3. How should sleeves he laid on f The top of the seam should be placed on the sel- vedge, the elbow one inch within it. 4. What is the rule for plaids and stripes f It plaid or striped goods are used, match the plaids up and down and across all over the waist, exactly. Have both sleeves precisely alike. 64 BASTING FINISHfNG THE WAIST. LESSON yiii. BASTING. 1. How slioidd ivorh he hasted? Very evenly, witli strong cotton, short stitches, exactly in the seam, and the ends well fastened. 2. How should lining and outside he hasted together f Lay the outside on the board, the lining npon it, and baste carefully upon the mark of each seam, then one inch from the edge all around. 3. Should the lining he stretched f No, it should be smooth, except that the edges of bias seams should be a little full. 4. How is the waist to he stitched f The tension must be perfect, the stitching be placed exactly on the bastings, and the ends well fastened. LESSON IX. FINISHING THE WAIST. In dressmaking establishments, when a waist is stitched, it is passed to a " finisher." These girls receive from $12.00 to $15.00 a week for this easy worlv. 1. Wliat should he done when a waist is stitched f Each seam must be matched exactly and pinned ; the armholes and neck shaped and overhanded ; the seams notched and trimmed olf . FINISHING THE AVATST. 65 2. Should waists he pressed f Every seam in a woolen waist should be opened and well pressed. Silk must not be touclied with an iron. 3. Hoiv are the seams finished f Every seam must be either bound with gal oon held a little full, or else overcast with silk very closely. 4. How is a waist to he honed f Bone casings should l)e sewed by hand on each dart and under arm seam. • 5. How are these made f Of bias strips of lining, or double tape, so that bone, being between two tapes, does not easily wear through the dress. Use thin bones. 6. Is an inside hclt necessary f Yes, very ; it should be securely fastened to the back and side-form seams. 7. Hoiv is the hottom of a hasqiie to he finished f Plainly faced with the material, one and a half inches deep, or else corded or piped. 8. Wliere should tite sleeves go f The back seam should first meet the side-form seam, or touch the arm-scye. CHART. Sliowing the diflferent pieces of a waist, and mode of placing them on the groods correctl}-. Noi. NO 2. m CHART QUESTIONS. 67 LESSON X. CHART QUESTIONS. 1. How many pieces has a plain ivaistf Five. 2. Name them ? 1st, front ; 2d, back ; 3d, side form ; 4tli, upper sleeve ; 5th, lower sleeve. 3. Wliat seam joins the front under-arm seam? The shorter side-form seam. L What seam joins the shorter hack seam f The long and curved side-form seam. NEW YORK AGENCY ESTABLISHED 1820. John Clark, Jr., & Cos MILE-END BEST ^SIX- CORD^= r-^^FOR^ Machine or Hand Use. London, New Yorh^ Philadelphia, I^aris, Vienna, Cincinnati, And Charleston, S. C. This is the first Thread imported into the United States on Spools. The Children's Museum ONE YEAR, ONE DOLLAR. ^ ENTERTAIN,"^ IT WILL EDUCATE, ^ REFINE, DELIGHT, BOTH YOUNG AND OLD. J We promise to keep it fully up to its present standard of excellence in all respects, —AND IF YOU V/ISH '^ TO BRING LIGHT INTO THE HOUSE, ^ TO DO A GOOD ACTION, TO MAKE SOMEBODY HAPPY, TO BE EXTREMELY HAPPY YOURSELF, TO PUT A DOLLAR i, WHERE IT WILL DO MOST GOOD, SUBSCRIBE TO-DAY, AND ENCLOSE A DOLLAR BILL TO goddard & gray, Tribune Building, New York. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 145 742 1 g When daifUfId i!> jli44tnci, We 4ake iih cmi kniMinf.