Author V «r TX 1 Title Imprint. 16 — *73T2-2 apt m. IIP: ^^'A m THE ETIQUETTE AIND SERVICE OF THE TABLE DEPARTMENT OF FOOD ECONOMICS AND NtTTRITION KANSAS STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE department of Food Economics and Nutrition KANSAS STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE FOURTH EDITION REVISED AND REWRITTEN 1920 Copyright, 1920, Department of Food Economics and Nutrition Kansas State Agricultural College g)GlA60l56l 37 I3 1S20 •^A.-^ " 'Etiquette' is the name given to the rules of society, and so- ciety is a game which all men play. If you play it well, you win. If you play it ill, you lose. The prize is a certain sort of happiness, without which no hu- man being is ever quite satis- fied." THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE GOOD MANNERS— WHY I For every age and for every condition, good manners pro- vide helpful equipment. To the young man or the young woman, a knowledge of correct usage gives self-possession and cTiarm. True courtesy is exhibited in simple, natural, sincere manners. Conventional rules are not arbitrary; they have grown up little by little during hundreds of years, just as the common law of our courts has grown. These rules will change but it does not follow that we may underrate or ignore them. Their underlying principle is consideration for others. On proper table service, much of the comfort, cheerful- ness and refinement of the family depends. Lavishness and perfection in the preparation of food will never compensate for poor arrangements and poor service in the dining room. The best order and yet the greatest freedom should exist. Table manners and table service are an excellent test of the re- finement of a family and of a people. While there are a few definite rules which are followed in practically all homes, yet comfort and convenience often dic- tate changes in formal rules and the personality of the mis- tress of the house should be felt in all the appointments of her table, both in the intimacy of her family and on more formal occasions. DINNER ETIQUETTE A dinner invitation requires immediate acceptance or declination. Only extreme illness or great calamity justifies the breaking of a dinner engagement. It is incumbent upon dinner guests to be prompt. The dinner hour is mentioned in the invitation. Guests are ex- pected to arrive from five to fifteen minutes before the hour 6 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE in order to greet the host and hostess and one another. If one is prevented by circumstances beyond control from being on time, he should take his place quietly, with a word of apology to the hostess. Conversation at the table should be carried on in a low, well-modulated voice. Special effort should be made to in- clude one's neighbors at table in conversation, which will be of interest to all. Loud talking or a tendency to monopolize the conversation are an indication of bad manners. A guest should never rush away immediately after din- ner, but should tarry for at least twenty minutes or longer if it seems best. On withdrawing, take leave of your host and hostess and express your appreciation of their hospitality. It is not necessary to take formal leave of the other guests, a general farewell being sufficient. After a formal dinner, one should call upon the hostess within two weeks. TABLE ETIQUETTE Seating Arrangements: — It is extremely difficult to lay down arbitrary rules for the seating of guests, since the matter is governed largely by the number of guests and degree of formality of the meal. The guest of honor, if a lady, is usual- ly seated at the right of the host; if a gentleman, at the right of the hostess. At a ladies' luncheon, she sits at the right of her hostess. At public dinners, a lady is seated at the right of her escort. At a formal dinner, guests do not enter the dining room in a promiscuous manner. The hostess carefully arranges her guests so that her company may be a success, using place cards to indicate the seating arrangement unless the company be very small. Each gentleman gives his arm to the lady whom he is to escort. Where place cards are used, the host and the lady whom he accompanies usually lead the way, the hostess and her escort bringing up the rear. On less formal occasions, the hostess may find it more convenient to enter first in order THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABLE 7 to direct the seating of the guests. If the hostess comes into the dining room last, she is seated, for convenience, near th« door by which she enters. The mistress of the house some- times prefers to sit facing the pantry or kitchen door so that she may better direct the service of the table. When there is no waitress, she naturally sits at the end of the table nearer the pantry. In planning a formal dinner, it is well to keep in mind that only certain numbers can be seated at the table without bringing two ladies or two gentlemen side by side. Only six, ten, fourteen, eighteen, and successive numbers obtained by addition of four can be seated with ladies and gentlemen al- ternating. It is well to mingle the guests so that those who come together, for example husband and wife, will not be seated side by side at the table. Stand beside or back of your chair at the table until the hostess gives the signal to be seated. The gentlemen seat the ladies at the table before taking their places. One should seat himself from the left and rise to the left. At the end of the meal, wait for the hostess to rise as a signal for others to do likewise. GENERAL DEPORTMENT Do not begin conversation at the table until after grace, or until you see that grace is not to be said. The proper attitude at the table is an erect one. One should not slide down in the chair, rest one's arm on the table, crowd, or discommode one's neighbor. Should the guest be in doubt as to what to do, he should glance at the hostess and adopt her method, whatever it may be. If one is unfortunate enough to have an accident at the table, he should express his regrets. The hostess should cour- teously accept the apologies offered and promptly turn the conversation. One should eat slowly and quietly, never talking while food is in the mouth. Care should be taken to finish a course at about the same 8 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE time with the others at the table. Salt should never be put upon the table-cloth but on the side of a dish — preferably the bread-and-butter plate — unless individual salts are provided. Break bread into small pieces, spreading each as eaten; do not cut it. Bread is never laid on the table-cloth, except as it is served with soup at formal dinners. One should wait until all at the table are served with a course before beginning to eat. It is never permissible to use bread to obtain the last bit of gravy or sauce; rather ask to be served a second time. Never tip the soup plate or break bread or crackers into the soup. In passing a sugar bowl, a glass, or any other dish with- out handles, be careful not to allow the fingers to rest within the dish. In passing a dish with handles, the handle should be turned toward the person receiving the dish. If your preference is consulted as to a food, express some preference, whether the matter be trivial to you or not, as this will aid the one who serves. In case you do not care for a course, you should not re- fuse it. Receive it and eat what part of it you desire, trying to eat some. If you wish, leave it untouched but do not give the impression of being neglected. A little more attention to conversation on your part may prevent those about you from noticing that you do not eat of a certain course. It is quite proper to take the last helping of any dish which may be passed to you, for to refrain looks as if you doubted the supply. At a formal meal, the second helping of a dish is never offered and should never be asked for. At an informal dinner party, it is not out of place to accept a second helping when one is offered, unless it would appear to delay the service. In offering to serve any one at the table, use some such phrase as , "May I help you?" "May I offer you?" "Let me give you." THE3 ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 9 If it is necessary to ask for anything during the meal, one should take the opportunity to speak quietly to the waitress when she is near. Never leave the table without being excused, except when you are serving as waitress. In using the finger bowl, only the finger tips, and those of one hand at a time, need be dipped in the water. The napkin is used to dry the water from the finger tips. Toothpicks, like toothbrushes, should be used only in- side of one's room. Attention should be given to directing the conversation to topics which will be of interest to all. Arguments and un- pleasant topics should be avoided or, if accidentally intro- duced, the conversation should be changed to pleasanter sub- jects as soon as possible. Tidiness of personal appearance is never at a higher premium than at the dining table. Soiled hands, negligee dress, shirt sleeves and disheveled hair are inexcusable. Elderly persons or persons from different localities are likely to use customs different from the established ways of the day or the locality. Manners change several times even within a generation and older persons may be merely following the customs which they were taught. Local forms of etiquette should not be criticized or ridiculed. The Use of the Napkin: — It is better to spread the napkin half unfolded upon the knees rather than to spread it out en- tirely. At the close of a single meal in the house of a friend, do not fold the napkin but place it loosely beside your plate. If you are to be a guest for more than one meal, observe the hostess; note what disposition she makes of her napkin and follow her example. Do not lift the napkin above the table while folding it. At a formal dinner, when the roll is in a fold of the nap- kin, be careful to remove the roll and lay it on the table-cloth, to the left of the plate, before unfolding the napkin. 10 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE The Use of the Knife and Fork: — Hold the knife and fork lightly, not allowing the fingers to touch the blade of the knife or the tines of the fork. Either the knife or the fork is held in the right hand when in use, except that the fork is held in the left hand to assist in cutting. In the latter case, the fork is held with the tines down, but otherwise the tines are always held up. When the fork is laid upon the plate, either in passing the plate for a second helping or at the end of the course, the tines of the fork should be up. Do not gesticulate with the knife or the fork, or hold them upright on the table. When not in use, lay the knife and the fork side by side across the right side of the plate. When a plate is sent back for a second portion, care should be taken to place the knife and the fork straight on the plate and a little to one side, in order that there may be no danger of their slipping off and that part of the plate may be ready to receive the food. Never cut salad with the knife but break it with the fork, using a piece of bread or cracker to assist the fork if necessary. It is not permissible to use anything but a small piece of bread or cracker in helping to put food upon the fork. The fork may be used to convey fish bones, pieces of gristle or other inedible substances back to the plate. The fork alone should be used for most "made dishes," vegetables, soft cheese, some fruits, and puddings when not too soft. The harder varieties of cheese may be broken with the fork and placed on small pieces of bread or crackers. A knife may be provided for this purpose, especially where cheese is served with crackers at the end of a dinner. Either a fork or spoon may be used with ice cream. For brick ice cream, the fork is preferable. Never hold food on the fork while you are talking; hav- ing once picked the food up, eat it promptly. THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 11 The Use of the Spoon: — A spoon is used only for food too soft to be conveniently handled with a fork. Dip the spoon away from yourself when serving or when taking soup. Sip from the side of the spoon. Tea, coffee, or any other beverage should not be sipped from a spoon but should be drunk from the cup. The spoon is for the purpose of stirring and of sipping to test flavor and temperature. No hot drink should be poured from the cup into the saucer. Never leave the spoon standing in the cup or glass; when not in use, it should rest on the saucer or dessert plate which is provided for this purpose. Foods Eaten from the Fingers: — It is permissible to eat crackers, olives, pickles, celery, radishes, corn on the cob, most raw fruits, salted nuts, crystallized fruits and bonbons from the fingers. Apples, pears and peaches are served with a knife and are quartered, peeled, and cut into small pieces before eating. Cherries, plums and grapes are eaten one by one, the stones or seeds being removed with the fingers and laid on the plate. 12 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE ARRANGEMENT OF THE TABLE General Arrangement Laying the Cloth: — Dust the table. Lay the silence cloth, which is usually of felt or of double-faced cotton material made for the purpose. It should have a drop of about three inches. Fit it over the table tightly, folding the corners, if the table is square, and pinning them underneath the table. The purposes of the silence cloth are three: to prevent noise, to protect the table from heat and to improve the appearance of the linen. Next lay the table-cloth, unfolding it carefully on the table to avoid creases. Place the cloth upon the table so that the center length-wise fold comes exactly in the middle of the table and the four corners are at equal distances from the floor. The cloth should extend over the table top at least a quarter of a yard at each end. Table-cloths should be ironed with as few folds as possible and care should be taken to refold them in the same creases when clearing the table after meals, so that they may be kept as fresh as possible. For breakfast, luncheon or supper, table-runners or a centerpiece with small doilies are very frequently used. The popularity of this custom is due not only to the saving of laundry which it effects, but also to the attractive appearance it lends to the table. If the centerpiece and plate doilies are sufficiently large, it is not necessary to have many small doilies to place under side dishes and food. Where the table is used bare for a formal luncheon, it is necessary to have small doi- lies under all the articles to be set upon the table such as glasses, cups and saucers, bread-and-butter plates and dishes containing food. The table should be protected by placing mats of felt or of asbestos covered with linen under hot dishes or by standing them upon plates. Decorations: — Special effort should be made to have, at all times, some attractive decoration for the center of the table. This varies in elaborateness with the formality of the meal served but should always be low enough not to obstruct the THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 13 view across the table. It should be placed on a centerpiece, arranged exactly in the center of the table, with the threads of linen running in the same direction as the threads of the tablecloth. Cut flowers should be of a color harmonious with the appointments of the table and room. They should be loosely arranged so as to retain the beauty of the individual flower. Vases should be simple in form and of glass or pot- tery of suitable color. A small fern or other low plant makes a simple and more permanent decoration. Many other attrac- tive table decorations can be arranged by the exercise of some ingenuity and at little or no expense. The use of candles in the daytime is permissible only when the lighting is inadequate or the day is dark. At for- mal dinners and receptions, candles often form part of the decorations and, if used, should be placed symmetrically on the table. Cards: — Place cards are customarily used at formal meals for convenience in seating the guests and are usually placed upon the napkin. These cards may be plain and small, with only the names of the guests upon them, or they may be larger, with suitable decorations. The more elaborately decorated cards are often placed in front of the cover. Menu cards may be used only at public dinners. They are placed upon the napkin. The program for after-dinner speeches is often combined with the menu in attractively bound booklets, which serve as place cards. Chairs: — Place the chairs so that the front edge of each chair touches or is just below the edge of the tablecloth. The chair should be close enough to the table so that little move- ment is required when persons are seated or rise from the table. LAYING THE COVERS The plate, silver, glasses and napkin to be used by each person are called a "cover." Twenty inches of space is the smallest distance which should be allowed for each cover and twenty-five or thirty inches is better. Covers should be as symmetrically arranged 14 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE as possible. Place all the silver and dishes required for one cover as closely together as possible without crowding, as the appearance of the table is much improved if the covers are compactly laid. The Silver: — The silver should be placed about one-half inch from and at right angles to the edge of the table. Knives, forks and spoons are placed in the order of their use, those first used on the outside, with the exception of the dinner knife and fork, which are always placed immediately to the right and left of the plate. Place the knives at the right of the plate with the cutting edges turned inward; at the right of the knives, lay the spoons with the bowls up; place the forks at the left of the plate with the tines up. The small fork used for oysters or clams on the shell is an exception to this rule, being placed at the extreme right of the cover. When the table is laid for a small supper party, or similar occasion when a knife is not needed, the fork is substituted for the knife on the right side of the plate with spoons as re- quired. The butter spreader is usually laid across the upper right hand side of the bread-and-butter plate, with the blade turned toward the center of the plate. It is sometimes placed with the other knives at the right of the plate but this practice is fol- lowed chiefly in public places. Silver for the dessert is not put on when the cover is laid, except where the meal is served without a maid. Never lay covers with more than three forks. If a dinner is sufficiently elaborate to require more than this number of forks, the silver for the later courses should be quietly placed at the covers just before the course is served, or brought in on the plate. If it is necessary to wash silver for use in the later courses, care should be taken to see that it is chilled before returning it to the table. Extra silver needed during the meal should be brought in on the serving tray. Serving silver may be placed on the table immediately be- fore the dish to be served is brought in or may be brought in THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 15 with the dish to be served. At an informal meal, serving silver for the first course may be placed on the table ready for use when the table is laid. The Service Plate: — In formal service, a plate about ten Inches in diameter is placed at each cover, one inch from the edge of the table, when the table is laid. Upon this service plate are stood the dishes containing the early courses of the meal, such as fruit, oysters and soup. It is not removed until it is exchanged for the heated plate upon which the first hot course after the soup is served. This custom has arisen because of the fact that, on formal occasions, it is considered good form never to leave the guest without a plate before him until tlm table is cleared for dessert. The Napkin: — The napkin is placed at the left of the fork with the loose edges parallel to the edge of the table and to the forks, so that the embroidered initial, if there is one, will be in the right position. Dinner napkins should be folded square and placed flat upon the table. Smaller napkins used for luncheons are usually folded in three-cornered shape and placed at the left of the forks. Fantastic arrangements of the napkin are never in good taste. In formal service, a roll, bread- stick, or piece of bread cut two or three inches long and one and one-half inches thick is frequently slipped between the folds of the napkin but in sight. The Glass: — Place the glass at the tip of the knife, or slightly to the right. The Bread-and-butter Plate: — Place the bread-and-butter plate at the tip of the fork, or slightly to the left. At formal dinners, bread-and-butter plates are usually ommitted, since butter is not served, but some hostesses prefer to have them placed on the table as a convenient receptable for bread, olives, celery, nuts, etc. Salt and Pepper: — If individual salt and pepper dishes are used, place directly in front of each cover. For each two per- sons, allow, if possible, one salt and pepper set placed between the covers. Individual Nut or Bonbon Dishes: — Individual dishes for 16 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE nuts or bonbons are sometimes used and are placed in front of the cover. They should be replenished from the side during the meal. Finger Bowls: — If finger bowls are placed when the table is laid, which is done only when they are needed with the first course, they are placed on a doily directly in front of the cov- er. They may be brought in after the last course on a plate with a doily on it, which is placed directly in front of the guest, or they may be brought in on a doily upon the dessert plate, the doily and finger bowl being removed by the guiest and placed in front of the cover when the plate is used for dessert. DUTY OF A WAITRESS The undivided attention of a waitress should be directed toward making the service of meals as prompt, orderly and unobtrusive as possible. She should learn to move quietly and deftly, and to be observing and prompt in her service. Cleanliness of person and tidiness of dress are absolute es- sentials. The appearance of a waitress is greatly improved if she stands erect and steps lightly and quickly. Further- more, she should be careful to observe the following rules: Close doors without noise. Handle silver and dishes in a quiet manner. Carry dishes without allowing them to touch the dress. In handling plates, never allow the thumb to be placed over the rim. Have in readiness suitable dishes and silver for the ser- vice at each course. Have the dishes to be used in serving hot foods heated, and those for cold foods chilled. Never serve heated foods lukewarm. To prevent their cooling, vegetables are usually served In covered dishes. Certain foods such as toast and baked potatoes may be covered with a napkin or doily. Arrange food in dishes of suitable size and shape, so that THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THB TABLE 17 it shall be well balanced but not heaped or crowded. See that the carving knife is properly sharpened before offered for use. It should never be sharpened at the table. See that the dining room is properly ventilated and warmed. Fill the water glasses with cold water immediately before the meal is served. Avoid filling the glasses to the brim. Place the butter on the bread-and-butter plates after fill- ing the glasses, if butter is to be served with the first course. Be absolutely certain that everything is in readiness be- fore announcing a meal. Place and remove everything from the left, except dishes for beverages which belong on the right side, such as water glasses and coffee cups. When placing or removing one plate always use the left hand. If removing and placing at the same time, use the right hand for removing and the left hand for placing. Food which is passed by the waitress should always be offered from the left of the person served, to permit him to help himself with the right hand. The waitress should look after refilling the glasses and replenishing supplies of such food as bread, butter and roll.i. Refill glasses without lifting from the table. If necessary to bring a glass out near the edge of the table for convenience in refilling, it should be moved by placing the hand near the bottom, never over the top. When offering any dish containing food, hold it on the left hand, using the right hand to steady tlie dish, if necessary, and having the serving silver placed on the dish at the side convenient for the person served. It should be held at a height and distance convenient to the person served. Have a squarely folded dinner napkin on the palm of the left hand under the dish. This is called a "service napkin." The service napkin should be used only under dishes containing food to be served. It is not used in placing or removing 18 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE plates, or in removing from the table dishes containing food. Serving utensils for use in the first course may be placed upon the table; those needed for later courses should be in readiness upon the serving table. Provide a liberal supply of serving implements, as it is often much easier either to serve a dish from the table or to help oneself to a dish passed by the waitress, if an extra fork or spoon is at hand to separ- ate the food and to steady it in transferring to the plate. The serving tray is used for passing and removing two or more small articles such as cream pitcher and sugar bowl, salts and peppers and extra pieces of fiat silver. A linen doily of suitable size and shape should be placed on the tray to keep articles from slipping. Food should be placed on the table, passed and removed in the order of its importance in the course. In clearing the table for another course, dishes should be removed in the following order: serving dishes, used plates and silver, any china and silver provided for the course but not used. Bread-and-butter plates are left upon the table until after the salad course. At an informal meal where the salad is served on individual plates with the meat course, plates should be removed as follows: first, course plate (right hand) and bread and butter plate (left hand) together from the left side; and then salad plate (right hand) from the right side. When clearing the table for dessert, all relishes, salts, peppers and bread-and-butter plates should be removed and the crumbs brushed from the table, using a small folded nap- kin with a plate or tray, and crumbing each cover from the left side. For further details of service, see descriptions of service for formal, informal and family dinners, pages 212 to 223. When two maids are employed, the waitress is usually ex- pected to perform the following duties in addition to serving the meals: To take proper care of the dining room and pantry. To wash the table dishes. Ideal Olive Server Cream Ladle Tomato Server Sugar Spoon Lettuce Fork 0\'.ter Fork Courtesy of the Wallace Manufacturing Company SILVERWARE FOR THE TABLE Courtesy of the Wallace Manufacturing Company SILVERWARE FOR THE TAP.LE THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABLE 19 To care for table linen, silver, glass, china, cutlery and brasses. To prepare butter balls, salad, sandwiches, fruit, relishes and beverages. STYLES OF SERVICE Russian: — This style of service is commonly used only for formal dinners and luncheons, since all the responsibility of supplying food to those at the table falls upon the attendants. It should not be carried out in its entirety, unless there is more than one waitress for each eight covers. Nothing appears up- on the table except the table decorations, a few dishes of bon- bons and the articles which compose the individual covers. The empty plates for each course are placed and all the food is passed, attractively arranged on suitable dishes from which each person helps himself: or each course may be arranged on individual plates which are placed before the guests, although this is not the best form of the service. English: — This form of service allows personal attention on the part of those sitting at the head and at the foot of the table to the needs of those about them, and is the most practical form to use where there is no maid. All the food for one course is placed upon the table at one time and is served by the host, hostess, or some other member of the family. The hostess serves the soup, salad and dessert; the host carves and serves the fish and meat. Vegetables may be served by the hostess or others at the table. Except relishes, bread, but- ter, and such other articles as pertain alike to all courses up to the dessert, only one course appears at a time upon the table. Compromise:— A combination of the two kinds of service described above results in the mixed or compromise form of service, which is perhaps the one most widely used. It is the form of service usually employed for informal luncheons, small dinners, and in families where there is only one maid. Such dishes as the salad and the dessert, which present an attrac- tive appearance and can be quickly served, are often served by the hostess, and the meat or fish may be served from the 20 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE table by the host, after the English style. The soup is usually placed and the vegetables passed by the waitress, while the salad is also frequently served arranged on individual plates, according to the Russian style of service. FORMAL DINNERS Courses: — A formal dinner usually consists of the follow- ing courses in the order named: Soup Fish Entr6e Roast and vegetables Salad Ices Fruit Coffee These may be added to or diminished, if desired. For example, one or more courses such as oysters or clams on the half shell, fruit cocktail, oyster cocktail, canap6, or fruit often precede the soup course. A second entree or a game course may be added, and frozen punch served after the roast and before the game. On the other hand, either the fish or entree may be omitted and only one dessert course offered, reducing the number of courses to six. Although excessive multiplication of courses in a dinner is now considered bad form, it could scarcely be termed a formal dinner if contracted to less than five courses. Laying the Table: — Follow directions for laying the table given on pages 204 to 208. /Service: — A formal dinner should be served after the Rus- sian style of service, as described above. Service plates are used and the plate for one course is exchanged for that for the next course, so that the guest is never without a plate in front of him except when the table is cleared and crumbed before the dessert course. All plates are brought in and removed one at a time. All dishes containing food to be offered to the guests are carried on the left hand on a folded napkin. This THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 21 service napkin is not used when exchanging plates or remov- ing dishes containing food. (See also rules or the waitress on pages 16 to 18.) Order of Service: — At a formal dinner the hostess is served first in order to enable her to see that each dish has been properly provided with serving silver and to allow the guests to observe how any unusual dish should be served. The other ladies are then served, beginning with the one seated at the right of the host, and progressing in order to the right; the gentlemen are then served in the same order, beginning with the one at the right of the hostess. If the party is a large one, it is customary to serve first the hostess, then the lady at the right of the host, then the next person to the right, whether man or woman, in regular order around the table until all are served. This makes the host the last one to be served, which is the usual arrangement. If there are two waitresses, one may begin with the lady on the right of the host and serve to the right, while the second starts with the hostess and serves to the right, ending with the host. Many hostesses prefer to have one waitress serve in suc- cession to the right about the whole table, having the second waitress follow immediately after with the next dish to be served. Service should be as prompt as possible, in order that the food of the first served may not become cold before all are served. DETAILED DIRECTIONS FOR SERVING All service is by the waitress. Have service plates at each cover. If cold, the first course is placed on the table before the guests enter the dining room but soup should be brought in after the guests are seated. If fruit is used for the first course and finger bowls are provided, the two dishes should be removed together, the plate with the right hand and the finger bowl with the left one. If only a plate is required for the first course, it should be re- moved with the left hand. 22 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABLE Service plates should be left on until exchanged for the first hot plate. Place plates containing soup on service plates (left hand, left side). Pass any accompanying dishes (napkin, left hand, left side). Remove soup and service plates together (right hand) and place warm plate for fisli (left hand, left side). Pass fish and accompanying dishes in turn (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove fish plate (right hand) and place plate with en- tree upon it (left hand, left side). Remove entree plate (right hand) and place warm dinner plate (left hand, left side). Pass meat, vegetables, and rolls in turn (on napkin, left 'hand, left side) . Remove plate for meat course (right hand) and place salad arranged on plate (left hand, left side). Place fork for salad (at right from right), if it was not placed on table when laid or brought in on right hand side of salad plate. Pass crackers or sandwiches (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove salad plate (left hand, left side). Remove bread-and-butter plates, if used. Remove any unused silver (tray). Remove salts and peppers (tray). Crumb the table, using folded napkin and plate or tray (from left side of each guest). Place ice, arranged on plate, (left hand, left side). Place silver for course (at right from right) unless brought in on right hand side of plate with ice. Pass cakes (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove plate for ice (right hand) and place plate with doily, finger bowl, and fruit knife upon it (left hand, left side). Guest removes finger bowl and doily and places them In front of the cover. THE3 ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 23 Pass fruit attractively arranged in dish (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove fruit plate (right hand) and place after-dinner coffee cup directly in front of guest with handle of cup to right and with after-dinner coffee spoon on saucer parallel with handle of cup (left hand, left side). Pass sugar bowl, with tongs, and cream pitcher on tray (left hand, left side). Few people take cream but it is always offered. Pass bonbons (tray, left hand, left side). Finger bowls are left on the table for use after bonbons are served. After-dinner coffee is very often served in the drawing room, in which case the bonbons are passed with the fruit course. It is possible and often advisable, where time or service is limited, to simplify the service of a formal dinner. The first course may be followed directly by the meat course, fish and entree being omitted. Service is often further simplified by having the meat and vegetables arranged on the individual plate instead of being passed by the waitress. The salad course is never omitted but only one dessert course need be used, followed by coffee, bonbons and finger bowls in the order named. Service of any course can always be made more rapid by bringing in the food already arranged on the plates or more elegant by having the dishes passed by the waitress. FORMAL LUNCHEONS The menu and service for formal luncheons resemble those for formal dinners so closely that it is unnecessary to give any detailed description. The list of courses is usually somewhat as follows: Fruit or fruit cocktail Soup Fish, poultry or meat with vegetables Salad Dessert Coffee 24 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE The dishes chosen for a luncheon are not so heavy and rich as those used in the dinner menu and special effort is made to have the food attractively arranged. A bare table with doilies is generally used and the napkins are smaller and folded three- cornered. The soup is served in bouillon cups; coffee is served in after-dinner coffee cups, either in the drawing room or at the table. If served at the table, the dessert plates may be ex- changed for the finger bowl service and coffee placed at the right of the plate, the guest removing the finger bowl with doily and using the plate for bonbons. The Russian style of service is used throughout the meal and the order of service is the same as for the formal dinner. INFORMAL DINNERS Differences 'between Formal and Informal Dinners: — In- formal dinners usually consist of only the following courses: soup, meat with vegetables, salad, dessert, and coffee. Either English or Compromise style of service may be used, although the latter is very generally preferred if there is a waitress. The elaborateness of the menu and service may be varied great- ly according to circumstances. Soup is always served in soup dishes at dinner. It is per- missible to use side dishes for vegetables, which are nev- er seen at a formal dinner. They are brought in on a tray, placed from the left at the left side of the cover below the bread-and-butter plate and removed from the left also. It is permissible at an informal dinner to serve the salad with the meat course, arranged on small plates and placed from the right on the right of the cover. Desserts are less elaborate and more varied. They are often served in small dishes set on des- sert plates, rather than directly on the plate, as is usual at form- al dinners. The nature of the dessert determines whether it shall be served directly on the plate or not, but the plate is al- ways provided under small dishes, as it is needed for holding cake and to lay the spoon upon when not in use. At informal dinners, coffee is often served in fuU-siaed cups and is usually poured by the hostess at the table. It is THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABLE 25 customary to serve coffee only with the dessert course but it IS sometimes offered with both the meat and dessert courses The coffee service may be placed on a tray and set in front rf.h^' T""' °' '^' '°^"' P°* "^^^ ^^ P^^'^^d on a tile at her right, with sugar bowl and cream pitcher in front of her plate The cups each set in its saucer, should be grouped about the coffee pot. A spoon is usually placed across the right side of the saucer, parallel with the handle of the cup. The cups and saucers Should not be piled up. If there is not room for all the waitress should bring others later from a side table. The hostess should ask a guest his preference as to cream and su- t^I' T^r. ^'' ^^^^^^ P"t ^^ the cup before pouring in the cof- fee If there is a waitress, she takes the coffee cups from the at thT.'t ?""' '"'" '' ^^^^ ^'^'^ "^-^ «^« Pl-es them at the right from the right. The coffee may also be brought m m the cup (tray) and the sugar and cream passed (tray! ^^ It fruit IS used for dessert, finger bowls should be provid- fnrJ!'^'' 1 ^r'''''-~'''- ^^ '''^^'■"^^^ d*^^^'-' o'- any other in- ormal meal when guests are present, the hostess generally pre- fers to give precedence to her lady guests who are se ved Tn order Of age and dignity. A few hostesses insist that all guests Shall be served before the family, while the custom o alway serving the hostess first is followed in other homes It is more tess ('unlTT' •*' '^''^ ^" '"^ "°"^^ ^"-t«. t^^en the hos tess (unless she is much older than her guests, when she would Ige 'ZueT'^' ''^^ °''^^ '^""'^ °^ ^^^ ^-^"^ '- -^- If age. Gentlemen guests would then be served in order of a^e or standing, then men who were members of the family k n^ wm mi b '""*' '?'' ^'■^ "^^^^ ^'^' ^^"^ ^^^ ^-t' i' -- ^«f;7^ ,. °'''' ^^^'' ^^''- Similarly, the hostess will not ZIT ! """'"^ °' "'^^^^' °'- ^^^P ^^-^1' first to any c^sh next to h"r T "°f ^ '' '' °^^^^' '° ^^^ ^^ ^^« -« '^"'ng next to her. The waitress should observe the proper order of precedence in placing, removing and passing each dish Service:~Yor details as to laying the table and duties of the waitress, see material under those headings (Pageri2- 26 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE to 18). As stated above, the service may be consid- erably varied. With each course but the soup, there is choice as to vphether it shall be served upon the table (English style) or from the side (Russian style). Courses may be added to the customary four mentioned above and some slight contrac- tion may be affected by combining meat and salad courses as previously described. The service napkin may be used, as in the formal service, in bringing in all dishes containing foods to be served, or it may be dispensed with except in bringing and passing dishes which contain hot foods, when it is needed to protect the hand. The following simple form of service is suggested as suitable for family service or when a few guests are present. It can be carried out in its entirety only if there is a waitress but it is possible to follow this general type of ser- vice when one of the younger members of the family acts as waitress. Have service plates in place before announcing dinner. Have bread-and-butter plates in place with crisp cracker or bread stick upon each. Butter may be placed on the plates before the meal, if the room is not too warm, or it may be passed by the waitress after the meat course is served. Crack- ers may also be passed by the waitress or omitted, as preferred. Have water glasses filled about two-thirds full just before the meal and refill from water pitcher on side table. The wa- ter pitcher is best placed upon a small tray or plate, on which there may be a doily. As soon as the family and guests are seated, bring two filled soup plates from pantry, leave one on serving table (right hand) and place the other on service plate (left hand, left side). Bring other soup plate from serving table and place (left hand, left side). Repeat until all are served. Remove soup and service plate together (left hand, left side). Place carving knife and serving silver (right hand, right THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 27 Bide) and carving fork (left hand, left si^), brought to table on tray. Place heated dinner plates from left in frcnl of host. Bring in meat or main dish (if in a casserole, remove cover and place on side table until all are served, then recover dish) on napkin and place from left in front of host. Bring in potatoes or corresponding dish on napkin and place from right to the right of host. Take stand at left of host. Take filled plates from him (left hand) and place before persons to be served (left hand, left side) in proper order of service. Pass gravy, if there is any, with ladle in dish (on napkin, left hand, left side). Pass second vegetable with serving silver in dish (on nap- kin, left hand, left side). Pass bread or rolls (left hand, left side). Each of the foods passed is offered to the guests and fam- ily in the proper order of service, which is observed as well in placing and removing soups, salad, and dessert courses. If a second portion of meat or potato is wished, the wait- ress should take plate (left hand, left side), carry it to left of host where she should hold it at a convenient height and dis- tance for him to refill, and replace it before the person served (left hand, left side). Vegetables and bread should be passed again in proper order. Remove food and dishes for meat course in proper order (see page 210). Place salad, arranged on plate, (left hand, left side). Salad or dessert plates may be brought in two at a time and one left on side table to be placed later, as described in plac- ing soup. Pass crackers or sandwiches (left hand, left side). Refill glasses and repass crackers, if needed. Remove salad plates (right hand) and bread-and-butter plates (left hand, left side). Remove salt and pepper sets (tray). 28 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE Remove crumbs from table, using folded napkin and plate or tray (left side). Place jfcirfsert plates with dessert arranged upon them and silver for dessert course on right side of plate (left hand, left side). Or, place dessert plates as above but without silver, which Is brought in on a tray and laid at right of each person (right hand, right side). Or, place dessert plates empty from left in front of hos- tess. Bring in dessert and place in front of hostess from the left. Stand at left of hostess, take filled plates from her with left hand and place before persons to be served (left hand, left side) in turn, as was done with dinner plates. Pass cake (left hand, left side). Bring in coffee service and place before hostess. Stand at her left, receive each cup as filled on a tray and place in turn at right of persons served (right hand, right side). Or, bring in filled coffee cups on a tray, place at right of each cover (right hand, right side) and pass cream and su- gar on a tray (left hand, left side). FAMILY DINNER WITHOUT A MAID The English style of serving the food from the table is the most practical form of service and the one in common use in families where there is no maid. When a woman has all the work of the house to do, she must consider how she may con- serve her time and strength. The menu for the family dinner, therefore, must not be elaborate and thought must be taken to have everything in readiness before the meal is served, so there will be as little occasion as possible for leaving the table. Even if the food and service are simple, it is of greatest impor- tance that the family table be clean and dainty in appearance. Plenty of clean linen adds greatly to the appearance of the table. If the problem of laundry is a difficult one, small-sized table-cloths and napkins, table runners, tray cloths and doi- lies may be used. A meal is always more dainty and appetiz- ing if care is taken to avoid putting too much food upon t-he table at one time or piling food upon the plates. Even with THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 29 a very simple meal, it is best to have at least two courses, put- ting the food for only one course upon the table at a time and removing all the unused food and soiled dishes from one course before bringing on another. The increased attractive- ness of the table fully repays even a very busy housewife for the small amount of extra labor required, or other members of the family can relieve the person who has prepared the meal of care in serving. Simplifying the Menu: — Two or three courses are usual for a simple family dinner — soup, meat with vegetables, and dessert; or meat with vegetables, salad, and dessert; or meat with vegetables (and with salad served at the same time, if desired), and dessert. Dishes which require very simple pre- paration or foods such as fruits which can be served uncooked may be used frequently, greatly reducing the time and labor spent in cooking. Eggs and other meat substitutes may and should be freely used in place of meat. Milk forms a ready-to- consume food which is almost always easily obtainable. An abundance of a few wholesome dishes, well served, is always more desirable than a more elaborate menu, poorly served. Simplifying the Service: — A good sized serving table or buf- fet is a great convenience and further saving of steps can be ef- fected by having a small serving table, on castors and with several shelves, which may stand at the left of the place occupied by the mistress of the house. All foods which do not need to be served hot or cold may be placed on the table, if used in the first course, or on the ^serving table, if used later in the meal. Food on the serving table may be covered with a napkin until the time of service. If a hot beverage Is to be served throughout the meal, the cups and saucers, together with cream and sugar, may be placed upoH the table by the place of the mistress of the house, as shown in the diagram of the family table. Each cup should be placed in its saucer with the handle toward the person pour- ing. In the case of a large family, it is better to keep at least part of the cups and saucers on the serving table. If the bever- age is not served throughout the meal, the cups and saucers. 30 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE cream pitcher and sugar bowl should be placed together on the serving table until needed. Bread-and-butter plates may be placed when the table is laid and butter may be put upon them just before the meal is served. Slices of bread, arranged on a plate, and butter, cut in squares and placed on a smaller plate, are usually put on the table just before the family is called to the meal. Glasses should be filled also immediately before the meal and the water pitch- er may be placed on the side table or on the table near some member of the family, whose duty it is refill the glasses. All serving silver and the carving knife and fork, if need- ed, should either be placed on the table by the place of the person who is to use them, or upon the serving table ready for use in the course in which it is needed. Dessert silver may be put upon the table when it is laid, if there is no maid. It is not necessary to exchange the plates for one course for those required for the next course, as is done at formal meals so that each person shall not be left without a plate at any time. Service plates can be dispensed with, therefore, and plates can be removed or brought in two at a time, which is not allowable in formal service. The service napkin is used only for assistance in bringing in hot dishes and not for form. Soup may be served in the individual dishes immediately before the family sits down at the table, since the soup tureen is seldom used now. The heated plates are placed before the master of the house, who serves the meat and potatoes (or cor- responding dishes) upon them and passes them to the other members of the family. The mistress of the house is usually served first, if there are no guests. Other vegetables may be served by the mother or some other member of the family either on the dinner plate or in individual dishes if desired. Salad and dessert may be served by the mistress of the house, as well as the beverage. It is some- times more convenient to bring in salad or dessert already served and thus decrease the number of dishes which the mis- tress of the house has to serve; or other members of the family THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABL.B 31 THE FAMILY TABLE 32 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OP THE TABLE may share in the task of serving. If there are children ol re- sponsible age, the work of removing one course and bringing on the next should be done chiefly by them. A large tray saves many steps in arranging and clearing the table; a serving table on castors can easily be wheeled into the pantry or kitchen after the meal. The general rules, given on pages 204 to 210, for laying the table and for placing and removing dishes and food are followed at family tables. BREAKFAST AND EVFORMAL LUNCHEON Breakfast is never a formal meal. Even in households where service is very elaborate, breakfast is kept a compara- tively simple meal. Special care should be taken to make breakfast as cheerful a meal as possible. There is such ab- solute freedom given to the housekeeper in the choice of dishes to be served for breakfast or luncheon and in their arrange- ment in courses that it is useless to attempt to outline menus for these meals. Breakfast may vary from toast and coffee to a substantial meal of fruit, breakfast cereal, bacon and eggs, muffins, jam, and coffee or cocoa. English or Compromise style is used in serving and the general rules already outlined (pages 204 to 210) for laying the table and serving are fol- lowed. THE GARNISHING OF FOOD Dainty ways of serving food have a usefulness beyond their aesthetic value. Everyone knows that a feeble appetite is often tempted by a tastefully garnished dish, when the same material carelessly served would seem quite unpalatable. Furthermore, many cheap articles of food and "left-overs," when well seasoned and attractively served, may be Just as appetizing as more expensive ones and the garnishing may it- self contain nourishing material. The chief reasons for gar- nishing food are then, to make the dish more attractive to the eye and thus more appetizing, and to add to the food value as well as to the appearance of the dish. THE3 ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE 33 The principal points to remember in garnishing a dish are: the garnish should be simple and not suggestive of much unnecessary labor; it must be appropriate to the food served; it must be edible; it must be placed so as not to interfere with the serving of the food. CARVING Suggestions: — Carving, like any other art, requires study, and success is not attained without much practice. Some idea of the relative positions of bones, joints, fat, and tough and tender muscles is the first requisite of good carving. Strength is not required so much as skill, neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner and con- fidence in one's ability are necessary. One should learn to carve without rising. If the chair of the carver is higher than the ordinary chair, he can carve with less difficulty. Ample space should be allowed the carver. General Directions: — Take out the skewers and remove the string before placing the meat on the platter. The platter should be large enough to hold the entire piece of meat when carved, and also to avoid any danger of soiling the cloth when carving. It is impossible to carve easily on a small platter. It is sometimes well to have a plate near on which the carver may put stuffing, trimmings, or bones that are not to be served. The platter must be hot, so that the meat will not chill. The carving knife should have a handle easy to grasp and a long, thin, sharp-pointed blade, and should be of appropriate size. Never use a carving knife except for carving. The knife should be examined and sharpened on the steel before it is brought to the table. The carving fork should be strong, with long tines, and a good guard, which should be up while one is carving. Carve the meat neatly and economically. 34 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLB Cut straight, thin slices, always across the grain of the meat. Even the tenderest piece of meat will be tough if cut with the grain — that is, with the length of the fiber. When carving poultry, one may offer each person his choice, or not, as seems best. Keep the meat compact while carving. After all are served the portion on the platter should not be left jagged and rough but should present a neat and attrac- tive appearance. Carving a Fowl: — A fowl should be placed on its back on the platter. Introduce the carving fork firmly across the breastbone, holding the handle in the left hand. With the carving knife in the right hand, cut through the skin between the leg and the body, close to the body. With the knife, pull back the leg and disjoint it from the body. Cut off the wing. Carve the breast meat in thin slices. Take off the wishbone, inserting the knife just in front of the breastbone, and cutting backward to the joints at the neck. Press the bone backward to the neck and disjoint it at these points. Separate the second joints from the drumsticks. Make an opening just below the breastbone. This will give an opportunity to remove the stuffing. THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE INDEX Breakfast . , .' 32 Carving 33 Carving a Fowl 34 General Directions 34 Suggestions 33 Deportment, General 7, 8, 9 Arrival and Departure of Guests 5 Conversation at Table 6, 9 Use of Knife and Fork at Table 10 Use of Napkin 10 Use of Spoon 11 Salt 28 Dinner, Family 28 Menu 29 Service 29, 30, 31 Dinner, Formal 20 Courses 20 Finger Bowls 9, 21, 22, 23 Invitations 5 Laying the Table 20 Order of Service 20 Service 20 Seating 6 Dinners, Informal 24 Difference Between Formal and Informal 24, 25 Order of Service 25 Service 26, 27, 28 Serving Utensils 14, 18, 21, 22, 26, 30 Serving Table 29, 31 Etiquette: Dinner 5, 6 Public Dinner 6 Table 6 Garnishing of Foods 31, 32 Good Manners, Why? 5 Laying the Covers 13 Bread and Butter Plates 15, 17, 18, 24, 26, 30 Finger Bowls 16 Napkins 9, 13, 17, 26 Nut and Bon Bon Dishes 15, 16 Salt and Pepper 15 Service Plates 15 Water Glasses 13, 15, 17, 26, 30 Luncheon, Formal 23, 24 Luncheon, Informal 31 Serving Directions 21, 22, 23 Coffee . . 23, 24 Dessert 19, 28, 29, 30, 23 Fruit 23 Plates 20 Removal of Courses 18 3 6 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE Rolls 82 Salad 19, 24, 27 30 Service Plates 20, 22 Serving- Table 21, 29 Silver 22 Soup 8, 19, 20, 21, 24, 26, 27, 30 Vegetables 19, 29 Styles of Service 19 Compromise 19, 24, 28, 31 English 19 Russian 19 Table Arrangement 13 Chairs 13 Doilies . 12 Decorations 12 Laying of the Cloth 12 Menus 23, 29 Menu Cards 13 Place Cards 13 Placing of Dishes 29, 30 Waitress, Duties of 16, 18, 19, 25 Care of Dining Room 18 Clearing the Table 18 Crumbing the Table 18 Dress 16 Method of Handling Dishes 16, 17 Personal Appearance 16 Refilling Water Glasses 17 Serving Tray 18 Two Waitresses 21 lllllipi ^f-COi^GREss ■Jm '«'/////////