TS 1449 ^p <£■ * ^BS r$- a** * (CCvSrA „ ^ /•v ° ^/v d 7 y •0^ o r, ^o v* ^ 0* . • • • • **o <^ V . ' : - ; %^ x %1 ^> %/-^>^ v 35 ^*^ TEXTILES AND THE ORIGIN O F THEIR NAMES BY ROBERT H. MEGRAW ^llft worn to expose, and not to conceal the form. Then, as now, the desire for luxury was sometimes an incentive to invention and enterprise. We next learn of the Romans paying fabulous prices for silk to adorn their favorites. Aurelian told his wife he could not allow her to wear a garment made wholly of silk, as its worth was that of gold, for then its cost was pound for pound with gold — A.D. 1 20. Two Greek monks who spent many years in China returned to Greece with eggs of the worm concealed in their hollow walking-staves; presented them to their emperor ; when hatched the worms were distributed over Greece and Asia Minor; soon the western world grew its own silk. The name silk is evidently from the Assyrian seolc, which applied to the people of that part of China where silk was first known. You will note 13 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Silk the name "silk" is similar to a degree in all languages; look it up in French, German, etc. Calico Printed cotton cloth ; takes its name from Calicut, a city in India where cloth was first printed. flDuslin Fine cotton cloth, originally made in Mosul, a city on the banks of the Tigris, in Asia. Satin Silk-faced fabric of glossy finish, obtained by passing between hot rollers. The name satin is from Zaytown, in China, where it was first made. £affeta A light-weight, plain silk cloth, known of first in Bagdad, and named for one of the city streets. alpaca The hair of the alpaca, an animal of the llama species, found in Chili and Peru; woven as filling on a cotton warp makes the fabric known as alpaca. 14 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. A cloth of silk and cotton, silk and SDatltaSfo linen, silk and wool, or all linen in flowered or geometrical designs for drapery or table covering; takes its name from Damascus, the chief city of Syria, where it was first made. A fine linen cloth made first in Cam- CaittbdC brai, France. The old Flemish name for the city being Kameryk. A veiling net, made first in Gaza, in (5aU3e Palestine. Solid-color woolen cloth, for table 3Bai3C and wall covering, made largely in the city of Baza, in Spain. A stout, cotton fabric, made with H)ilTlitP cords or welts lengthwise of the piece; used first as furniture covering. The name is from Damietta, a town in Egypt, where the cloth was originated. An untwilled, pick-and-pick weave, S)ncft cotton on linen cloth of lighter weight than canvas; used for clothing, and in 15 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. 2DUCfe some weights for sail cloth ; first made in Torque, a town in Normandy, and derives its name from its resemblance to a duck's skin. 3Blftnfc€t Every one knows what a blanket is, but how many know it gets its name from Thomas Blanket, a famous clothier, who made blankets in England about the year 1 840 ? IDlapcr Figured cotton or linen tissue ; gets its name from the Greek diaspron, meaning figured. QCXQC Even-twilled cloth of wool, mohair or cotton; derives its name from xerga, a Spanish name for a peculiar woolen blanket or wrap. IDdVet From the Italian vellute — woolly feeling to the touch, as a woolly pelt or hide ; this word applies to the cover- ing of a deer's horns, and seems to take root in the furry feeling to the touch. True velvet is made wholly of silk. 16 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. An imitation velvet, made of cotton, IDel- usually with plain back — not twilled, as veteen silk velvet. This is a misnomer, and does not IDel- mean velvet to the initiated. The velu- utina tina is a species of shellfish. A fabric of the velvet kind, made of IDelure coarse wool yarn and silk. The lowest grade of cotton velvet, Safety used for covering cheap coffins, lining \Delvet cases, etc.; sold by the inches in width, which ranges from 16 to 32 inches. Originally made in Bagdad for wall covering — called for Tabby street in that city. Shawls were made first for floor cov- Sbawl ering. Sala is Sanscrit for floor, from which we get the name. From the French " of wool "; applies Be* to the most primitive weave of plain laine wool yarn. Thirty years ago delaine 17 Textiles and the Origin of Their Namgs. 2)C"" was the staple of a dress goods stock. laiUC It was made in solid colors — red, yel- low, blue, salmon, pink, green and pur- ple. In the old days of general jobbing, if your prices on delaines and Tabby velvet were right, you sold the shopper. !BaU" From the Indian bandanna — to bind batina or tie. In dyeing, the cloth is tied in knots when dipped. This gives the clouded effect seen in the original ban- danna handkerchiefs. ColOt0 Color is concentrated light rays. The primary colors are red, yellow and blue; the secondaries green, orange and pur- ple. By mixing blue and yellow we get green. Red and yellow give orange, and red with blue yields purple. We then have the tertiary or third results. Mix orange and purple to get russet or yellow brown. Orange and green make citron or lemon. Purple and green result in olive. 18 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. What a warmth there is in red. JBftCCtOt Naturally, in the dull months of winter, COlOCS this color is in favor. Blue conveys a feeling of coolness, therefore you find it in favor for sum- mer wear. Yellow, the lightest and purest of the primary colors, is the most trying of them all. By contrast it is the most vivid, and in using it too much care can- not be taken in getting the proper shade. Spotless white was, to the ancient Britons, symbolic of sunlight and holi- ness, and was the dress of the Druid priest. Light blue was the color of the garb of the singer or poet. Green, the livery of the wood and field, was the dress of the teacher of natural history and medicine. Queen Boadicea of Britain, being the patroness of all the early arts and sciences, wore a motley gown, checked or plaided in all the colors, which was 19 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. iBffCCtOf no doubt the origin of the Scotch plaid COlOr0 of to-day. " It is not what a man outwardly has or wants that constitutes his hap- piness or misery. Nakedness, hunger, distress of all kinds have been cheer- fully endured, and even death itself. It is the feeling of injustice that is in- supportable to all men. No man can bear it or ought to bear it." — CARLYLE. flDcrCCf" The treatment of cotton to similarize t3&tl0n silk. John Mercer, a cotton printer of Manchester, England, applied the process to fabrics for printing. Eng- lish-speaking people have since identi- fied the process with his name. From what we can learn, the Germans knew of the treatment for hosiery yarns long before Mercer used it. We have heard more of the idea since the Ding- ley tariff came in force as a cheapener of fancy wool and silk stuffs. The 20 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. process is simple. The yarn or cloth flDcrCCr* in the piece is treated with a bath of 13311011 hydrate of soda, solution about 20° Baume, for a length of time sufficient to saturate. While in the bath there is a shrinkage of about 10 per cent. When taken from the bath it is neces- sary to stretch the warp to its original length. This can be done while it is still wet, or after it has dried by sprin- kling with pure cold water while stretching. This imparts a bright lus- ter, or, in other words, plates the yarn or cloth, which, when finished, takes a high, silky face. Yarn-dyed cotton cloth in stripes (5l!t0" or checks ; originally of Indian make. i)H1T1 Glasgow, Scotland, took up the making of the fabric on a large scale. The simplicity of its construction led to it being one of the first fancy cottons made in America. We now have so many new lines of cottons called ging- hams that the distinctive feature of the 21 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. (BittQ" name is almost lost. We trace it to ufltTl Gingamp, a town in Brittany, where the cloth was made for umbrella covers. See how easy it was to derive the slang English " Gamp" for an umbrella. XPtnOtS" Wool, combed, in the fleece instead tCb of carded, into parallel fibers, the light- ness and firmness of which was suit- able for making the finer grades of yarn. When William the Conqueror came to England he found the people of a certain place combing the fleece. He had worsted the people in battle, named the place Worstead, and the yarn-making took the name of the place. Worstead, in England, has long been known for its fine wool yarns. Htft = Richard Arkwright, made Sir Wd0bt Richard by George III in 1 786, in- vented the spinning frame in 1 767. He was born in Lancashire in 1 732, had very little education, learned the trade of barber and hair-dresser, sold 22 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. a chemical hair-dye, saved a little Hrfe" money, in his spare time studied the WUODt workings of the cotton manufacturers of his district. By close application he brought his spinning device to a practical shape. You can understand he was not long in the barber-shop after that. It appears he had not much time to devote to other inventions, as all his after life seems to have been taken up in preventing others stealing his invention. Justice is supposed to be the basis of all law. Heavy woolen cloth, woven with flDeltOtt fast back, fulled or shrunk, used for overcoating. The name is from Mel- ton, a town in Leicestershire, England. A cloth of same general appearance flDCltOlV as melton, of a lighter weight, for CttC women's wear. In order to prophesy, one must know. To know, one must have had 23 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. experience. To be a prophet for profit, keep a careful memorandum of each season's features. Fashion's wheel turns with every renewal of your bodily structure, or, as we are told, once every seven years. ZibcUUC Hairy-faced cloth of plain weave. Zibeline is French for the small fur- bearing animal known as the sable, found in Siberia. The fur of the zibeline is the mourning fur in the garb of royalty. That man best controls others who best controls himself. HSptltd" A fine corded fabric of wool or silk, lln€ showing the cords woven close to- gether, appearing as if lined with a pin-point. The application is from Epingle, French for pin. If a high protective tariff is a benefit to home industries, why not exclusion, and with it perfection of trade con- ditions } 24 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Fine linen or cotton lawn. Batiste was a Frenchman, who first made the cloth. "Reading maketh a full man, con- fidence a ready man, and writing an exact man." —BACON. N. B. — Keep a careful record. Coarse woolen cloth of the plainest weave of the yarn in its natural, un- dyed color. The name is literal, spun and made at home. Make of your business a mistress, and love her for herself. Applied to plain or twilled mixtures, woven of undyed natural wool yarns. The French spinners found that the strongest yarns were those of the un- dyed wool; sometimes two or more shades or tones are spun into one thread. The name is French for strong. To love your business is to have one of the ingredients of success. Batiste or Baptiate Home spun Digour- eouy 25 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. fl>ru- nelle or pru- nella Cbeviot flDull The others are knowledge and appli- cation; they follow the first. Fine twilled worsted cloth of a wiry texture. Originally made for gaiter or shoe tops. The name pru- nelle is French for plum. Plum-color was most in favor in the cloth for shoe tops. It was estimated in the seventeenth century it took 10,000 men to convert a ton of wool into cloth in a day. We do it now with machinery and 1,000 men. Rough-finished twilled cloth, either in solid colors or mixtures. The wool is from a breed of mountain sheep of the Cheviot Hills between England and Scotland. Past success furnishes both the means and motion for future progress. Soft cotton muslin of fine quality, made first in India, later in Switzer- 26 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. land. The name in Hindoo is mal fIDUll mal, meaning soft, pliable. Live your business life alone, or with those you can trust. Beware of the stranger who wants to entertain you. "Nothing for nothing." "Rien pour rien," the French say, means a great deal. Know your associates. You will learn more of your business and have less to regret. Cloth of undyed, or natural wool. ffcclQC True beige is a plain pick-and-pick weave. Cashmere beige is twilled cloth of same order. The name is the French word for "natural." Twilled cotton cloth of a brown IftbaM dust color, first used for men's clothing, in India. Taken up by the Anglo- Indian army for uniform cloth. The word khaki is Indian for earth, or dust-colored. Rough, unfinished fabric of wool or Qyoee'b cotton and wool, usually of yarn of 27 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. ZTVPCCfc) two or more shades, originally the product of the weavers on the banks of the river Tweed in Scotland. What a man gives out, not what he keeps, determines his appearance in the eyes of the world. Beauty, bright- ness, color consist not in what a thing keeps, but in what it gives out. A well-known law of optics teaches us that a thing is seen not in the color which it takes in and keeps, but in that color which it gives back again. The thing we call red is the one which is, in one sense, blue; that is, it takes in the blue rays and keeps them for itself, but gives back the red in color. Gold has kept all the green rays, and gives back the yellow, so we see it as yellow. The object we call black takes in every ray of light, and keeps them all for itself, so we give black the mark and sign of evil. The object we call white keeps nothing of the sun's rays, but gives them 28 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. all out again, and we say of white, it symbolizes all purity and good. Coarse, heavy cloth, with curly sur- 3fret3e face, made first of lamb's wool. The name is from the French Friser, to curl. Measure thy life by loss instead of gain; not by the wine drunk, but by the wine poured forth. For life s strength stand eth in life's sacrifice, and who gives the most has the most to give. Is the yarn or thread running length- XPdlatp wise of the pieee. J^ " Run if you like, but try to keep your breath. Work like a man, but don't be worked to death." —HOLMES. Applied to a twilled, unsheared- JfOUlC face cloth ; that is, the face appears to be unsinged, and shows the woolly 29 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. JfOUlC roughness in a slight degree. The cloth, when woven in the gray, is fulled or shrunken in width, by soak- ing in soapsuds and passing it, while wet, through holes of different sizes in a steel plate. The holes are graded to give different percentages of shrinkage. The name is from Fouler, French, to full or shrink. "A man's character is like his shad- ow, which sometimes follows and sometimes precedes him, which is oc- casionally longer, occasionally shorter than he is." CftSfo" Cloth made of the hair of the ntCCC cashmere goat. The face of the fab- ric is twilled, the twills being uneven and irregular because of unevenness of the yarn. Cashmere yarn was first handspun. The cloth was originally made as the groundwork for Broche India shawls. The sheep, for their wool, were grown in the Vale of Cashmere in the Himalaya Mountains. 30 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. "Some men, like pictures, are fitter for a corner than a full light." -SENECA. Is the yarn or thread crossing the "flXHeft or piece and binding the warp from sel- JfillillQ vage to selvage. "It is another's fault if he be un- grateful, but it is mine if I do not give. To find one thankful man I will oblige many that are not so." —SENECA. A fabric woven of the wool of the flDCtlflO Merino sheep, twilled on both sides, the twills being uneven. Merino was the hand-woven origin of cashmere. The standard twills of cashmere and henriettas are accepted as follows : French, from 12 twills, up or down, regulates the range price ; German henriettas are usually rated from 1 7 twills. This grading is merely to give prices for whole ranges of twills, such as a line of blacks, from 12 to 20 Gwill0 31 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. {£VPUl$ twills in any weight. The count of twills will not compare different makes, as the weight has all to do with the value. The writer saw a piece of cashmere at the Paris Exposition of 1889, which counted 100 twills. By no counting of the twills could its value be estimated. "As the sword of the best tempered steel is the most flexible, so the truly generous are most pliant and courteous to their inferiors." Gftft)C& Differs from worsted, in that it is XKHOOl drawn out into fibers on an appliance called a card, which may be a leather band fitted with steel hooks or points, or a board studded with metal points. Carding is applied to the softer wools for cashmere and flannel weaving. He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, is a fool — avoid him. 32 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Twilled wool fabric in which the IDcitC' twills are very even and regular, may U8tt be single or double twill. The cloth is milled or cropped in finishing. The name is from Venice. He who knows not and knows that he knows not, is simple — teach him. C. Ahnert, of Paris, has received a patent for a method of imparting a silky gloss to cotton yarn or cloth without submitting to tension. He claims tension is unnecessary if the cotton is well boiled in a soap solution at 122° F., and put through an alkali bath of a concentration of 25° to 35° Baume at a temperature of 86° to 104° F. The cotton is taken out in about 2^ hours, rinsed with water, to which acid may be added. It is then bleached. He who knows and knows not that he knows, is asleep — wake him. 33 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. IDOCSMtt Of the broadcloth range, made with shiny-napped face, soft finish, as the pelt of a doe. He who knows and knows that he knows, is a wise man — follow him. 3Bt0ftfc" Plain-faced cloth of wool or wors- ClOtfo ted, with twilled back. Originally made in England in 2 7-inch for men's wear. The name is literal, and is now applied to the plain-faced, wide- width cloths for women's wear. 3LCU0 This name first applied to fabrics woven in stripes of open-lace effect in cotton. It is now used to designate the open-mesh stripes and checks in silk, linen and mohair. The name is de- rived from the French linon, for linen lawn. IflHnUCl The first stage and simplest form of weaving wool cloth, usually pre- sented in an almost unfinished state. The weave may be plain or twilled. 34 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. The fabric is finished by pressing, no jflaiWel other treatment being necessary. Name from the French flannelle. " He who can, at all times, sacri- fice pleasure to duty, approaches sublimity." A plain, even thread weave of mo- BUttttttQ hair, wool or worsted, used most for making flags. The name seems to be derived from the German, bunt, mean- ing variegated or gay-colored. Was first a bright-colored, checked flDafcra0 or striped, plain-faced cotton and silk fabric, made in Madras, India, for sailors' head-dresses. The name has fallen on cotton ginghams, shirt- ings, etc., probably because of the colorings. Choose your pleasures in the line of rest and recreation ; leave out the expensive and straining kinds. 35 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. flfcomie A plain weave of flaxen or linen or yarn. Originally the winding cloth flDum- or shroud of the Egyptian mummified mv dead. Some well-preserved mummy cloth can be seen in the New York Museum of Art. Health lies in temperance in all things. £>rap A heavy cashmere or double-warp fc'Ete merino, with the back teazled or scratched ; used most as clothing for the priesthood. In lighter weights for women's dress. The name is French for "cloth of summer." Berber Satin-faced fabric of light-weight cloth ; came into favor about the time of the defeat of the Berbers by Gen- eral Gordon in his campaign against the Mahdi in North Africa. A good cause makes a strong arm. 36 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Similar to a poplin; made of hard- J6rn= twisted worsted filling and cotton PCC90 warp. Was made a success in the VL-lOlD early seventies of the last century by the Empress Eugenie of France. Em- press cloth was a staple in all well- regulated dress goods lines in 1 873. "Mens sana in corpore sano," a sound mind in a sound body. Keep your body clean and sound by ju- dicious exercise, and your mind will be in working order. A manufacturer of shoddy was be- 2>b0bfr\) fore the Ways and Means Committee during the construction of the Dingley tariff. On being asked what shoddy was, replied: "Anything long enough to have two ends." He also said he sold his shoddy to almost all the wool manufacturers, and further stated that as much as 80 per cent, was used in making some so-called woolen cloths. Shoddy is made from 37 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. £5bObb)j) old woolen stockings or rags, shredded or picked by hand or machine, to render the yarn or threads suitable for spinning into yarn a second time; or to give a fiber that can be woven or felted in with a wool or cotton warp. The name is literal, meaning, in its adverbial sense, cheap, make believe. "We usually judge others by our own standard ; and although we in- dulgently forgive our own shortcom- ings in them, we condemn them harshly for lack of our own special virtues." —BALZAC. flDOrCCTl Heavy mohair, cotton or silk and cotton cloth, with watered or moire face. The making of moreen is in- teresting. The undyed cloth is placed its length of piece in a trough in lay- ers, from two to as many layers as will take the finish, which is imparted to the cloth by placing between the layers of cloth sheets of manila paper ; the contents of the trough are then satu- 38 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. rated with water; a heavy- weighted flDOreeil roller is then passed over the wetted paper and cloth. The movement of the roller gives the cloth a watered face. It can then be dyed and re- finished. If you examine moreen you will find the design or marking differ- ent on every piece. Moreen was made for upholstery and drapery use at first; is still used to cover church seat cushions. It was found to give a rustle sound or "froufrou," similar to silk, so was taken up for under- skirts. The name is probably from moire, French for watering. "A man can shine in the second rank who would be totally eclipsed in the first." -BALZAC. This name has been applied to a paiMC range of satin-faced velvet or silk fabrics which show a high luster, which is produced by pressure. The word Panne is French for plush. 39 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Ibetv* rietta Clotb Gartans A twilled cashmere of light weight and high finish, originally made with silk warp and wool filling in York- shire, England. This name is now applied generally to all the cashmere weaves and weights. The name was given in honor of Henrietta Maria of England, Queen of Charles I. The silk-warp, hand-woven fabric was first produced about the year 1 660. When the all-wool cloth was promoted in the United States, the name was wrongly thought to have been taken from a play popular in 1884. Eleventh Commandment: "Mind your own business." Plaids of the Scottish clans worn by men in the Highlands of Scotland as a scarf, from the shoulder under the arm ; each clan had a distinctive tartan or plaid. The name was adapted from the Spanish Tiritana, a thin woolen-checked cloth. 40 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Help a weak man and you create an enemy ; help a strong one and you gain strength. Heavy, coarse linen cloth, gummed 3BUCR and finished to a firm, stiff texture; ^ am the fabric was first made in Bokhara, Tartary, as a foundation for a special floor covering, and the name is de- rived from Bokhara. There are men who have been helped who wish, from pure hatred, for the downfall of the one who aided them, even should his downfall mean their own ruin. Satin-faced cloth, woven with fine GjOlCXl line or stripe running lengthwise of the piece ; usually in solid colors and piece-dyed. Soleil is French for sun, and applies to the brightness of the finished cloth. When you have learned to give no heed to those who do not heed you; 41 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. when you have learned that, no matter how high a man's head, his feet are on a level with your own ; when you have learned not to put confidence in the warm days of winter, in the sleep of your enemies, or the flattery of friends, then are you rich in learning. (Tnn\>3$ Coarse, plain weave of hempen yarn; the name is from canabis, the technical name of hemp. Carelessness will work as much harm as malice. £>att@" Plain fabric of wiry worsted or Iter mohair yarn, closely woven, with a rough-finished surface. Sanglier is French for wild boar, the hairy, wiry cloth resembling the coat of the animal. The most utterly lost of all days is that in which we have not once laughed. dftcnii" Originally a plain, open-work net- fcittC like fabric of silk, mohair, cotton or wool, such as were firmly made so as 42 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. not to slip on the warp ; were called (BfCnft 1 iron frame. Now we have grenadines OltlC in jacquards and set patterns. The name is an adaptation of Grenada. "I don't believe that harmless cheerfulness and good humor are thought greater sins in heaven than shirt collars are." —DICKENS. Plain weave of silk and wool, or (5l0tt8 silk and cotton ; first made for um- brella covering. The name is literal, meaning bright, praiseworthy. Mr. Carnegie observes, "There is very little success where there is little laughter." Twilled cloth of silk and wool ; SultHflC finished in the rough, not singed or sheared. The name is from Sultana, the first wife of the Sultan. Render your account to God. Call God what you please — Supreme Be- 43 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. ing, Grand Master of the Universe, the good that is in yourself — what you will, only render an account — ask yourself how you stand ? CrCpCOt Thin, gauzy fabric, woven in loose, CnipC even threads of silk, heavily sized or gummed, crimped or craped in the drying. Crape was first used in black only as a badge of mourning ; it is now, however, an accepted dress fab- ric, made in colors and white, and of many materials. The name signifies to crimp or crape with a hot iron. Who lives without folly is not so wise as he thinks. CbCnillC Cloth of a fuzzy or fluffy face ; woven of cotton, silk or wool ; used sometimes for dress goods ; more gen- erally for curtains and table covers. Chenille is French for caterpillar, which insect the single thread of the cloth resembles. 44 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. The basis of the metric system of flDetre measurement, equivalent to 39 37/100 inches. Long before the oldest book in the XittCIt world was written the Egyptians cul- tivated flax for its fiber. We read and get the first idea of its utility in the Bible, Exodus 9th C, 31st: "And the flax and the barley were smitten ; for the barley was in the ear and the flax was boiled." Note the beautiful texture and fineness of the linen winding cloths of the Egyptian mummies. Ages before the French made cambric at Cambrai, before the Lowlanders made lawn, Egypt had fine linen cloth. To-day linen is the fabric chosen when firmness of weave is desired, more particularly where white is used, as in shirt bosoms, col- lars, napery, etc. The French, in the time of Napoleon I, made great prog- ress in the spinning and weaving of flax, which they used in making fine 45 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. XitlCn sheer fabrics for women's and men's wear. The name linen is from the French linon, equivalent to English lawn. Most of the French weavers used flax for the lighter lawn textures. Eltna Cloth, double twilled from left to right diagonally ; first made in black only as a special mourning fabric. The name is from the Egyptian, as applied to a mourner or singer at funerals. (IDOir C Watered design of any material ; first made in silk. Moire is French for watering. 2>Wi00 From Switzerland, where the plain Swiss net and figured cambric is a specialty in the St. Gall district. Business is sensitive ; it goes only where it is invited, and stays only where it is well treated. %HWn Fine linen cambric, used now for women's dress ; first made to com- bine with silk and drap d'ete for 46 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. clerical garb. The name is from XaWU Laon, a place near Rheims, France, where lawn was extensively made. Plain, sheer, soft-finished fabric of CbtttOH silk or cotton. The name applies to the finish, and is the French word for rag. Applied to cotton cords is a mis- pique nomer. Pique was originally woven in diamond-shaped designs to imitate quilting. The name is French for quilting. Soft wool cloth of the cheviot order, H)|^O0UC with teazled face ; made from the wool of the vicuna, a South American ani- mal of the camel species. Vigogne is the French name for the animal. French name for bolting or sifting ]£t&- cloth ; made of silk for sifting flour ; mine Or applied to mesh or net weaves in fiSto' America; accorded a special duty in our tariff when made of cotton. mine 47 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. flDOftaiC The hair of the Angora goat. Fab- rics made of this hair are called mo- hairs. The name is from the Arabic, mukay-yar, cloth of goat's hair. ZTcrr\> A pile fabric, with the loops of the ClOtD pile drawn through a foundation and uncut. Turkish toweling is the orig- inal terry. The name is from the French, tirer, to draw or pull. Study the errors of others and profit thereby ; fools laugh at them and for- get, and are forever fools. Cb&lliC Originally challis. Soft wool cloth, plain, printed or figured. Challis, as first made, was of silk and wool fig- ured in small design. The name is from the Anglo-Indian shalee, a soft cotton cloth. Could any tariff law have made for this country a Morse, a Whitney, an Edison or a Bell ? 48 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Yarn-dyed linen or cotton cambric. The name is from Cambrai, the French town where chambray was first made, to be used for sunbonnets. Cfoam= bra$ A fine sheer fabric of cotton or silk, ©r^ait- Organdie is French for book muslin. vtC Corded or ribbed cloth; made orig- Ipopltfl inally of silk and worsted. Double poplins have double warp and filling ; Irish poplin, single-warp silk and worsted filling ; Norwich poplin, of silk and linen. The name is French, popeline, to designate the weave. The cloth was first made in Avignon, France, about A.D. 1 500 ; was taken in 1775 to Ireland by the French Protestant refugees. Ireland has since excelled in making it. "Be not so severe that you are blamed for it, nor so gentle, that you are trampled on for it." —TURKISH PROVERB. 49 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. COVCrt Heavy twilled cloth in natural, undyed shades ; used in England for men's overcoats, worn while riding to covert in fox-hunting. (BnitlitC The name of a weave resembling the markings of granite stone. jHC" Designs on any kind of fabric woven QUHtO on a loom having a chain of cards through which pass wires or cords, the lifting or dropping of which raises the warp threads to allow the passing of the shuttle for the weft. Joseph Marie Jacquard, the perfecter of the card appliance to looms for the weav- ing of flower or irregular designs, was born in Lyons, France, July 7, 1 752. He inherited two old looms and a small sum of money from his father. Working on the looms he made prog- ress toward the perfection of his idea. He was called to Paris in 1801 by Napoleon I, and given a medal for his invention, which did 50 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. the work of one man less per loom. 3&C" The appliance was perfected in 1 804. QUarb Jacquard died in 1 834. The city of Lyons erected a beautiful statue in memory of his great service to the silk-weaving industry. Dress contains two codes of moral- ity — private and public. Attention is the duty we owe to others ; clean- liness that which we owe to our- selves. Printed cotton cloth; large, many- (£J)|nt0 colored designs, used in Western countries for furniture covering. The Hindoos wear it as a body drapery. Chints is the Hindoo word meaning variegated. Knit cloth of fine combed wool; ^CVQC^ made first in the Island of Jersey for ClOtl) fishermen's wear; sometimes made with fleeced back. What we call stockinette is Jersey cloth. 51 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. patlJMTl8 The plain, simple weave of the straw plaiter ; the weave of the Pan- ama hat makers. "Experience is the best teacher; only the tuition fees are heavy." Sicilian Heavy-weight cotton warp, mohair- filled cloth. Sicilienne, the proper name, was made in the Island of Sicily as a heavy-ribbed, all-silk stuff. HullC Open-work silk net ; made on the pillow as lace, by the young women of Tulle, France. "Our lesser misfortunes come from thinking too well of our fellows ; our greater from thinking too well of our- selves." — SETH LEE. 36tOCftbC Raised figures on a plain ground. Early writers were wont to brocade or ornament their work with flour- ishes. "Dissipation is a lottery in which there are no prizes." 52 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. A kind of brocade, used for drap- BtTOCatel ery and upholstery; usually raised wool figures on a silk ground. Cotton muslin, with little dressing percale and slightly finished face; when printed, used for shirting. The origin of the name is doubtful, and is sup- posed to be North of England dialect, meaning long cloth, sold by the ell. Highly finished and dressed per- cale; sold in solid colors for lining. "The world o'erflows its cup of woe, Each heart has felt the knife of pain ; But I would have my soul to know That all is best, that God doth reign." _R. W. GILDER. Hard-twisted worsted twills, either solid or mixed colors. The name is from the hard-twisted fiber lash of a whip. Plain silk cloth, sold as dress goods ; originally made for handker- 53 petca- line TObtp- corfc jfoularb Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. JfOUlatb chiefs only. The name is French for silk handkerchief. A thousand misfortunes are less affecting than a single kindness. (31&CC Plain, lustrous silk, yarn-dyed ; warp of one color, weft of another. The name is applied to all fabrics having two tones. Glace is French for icy, having an icy appearance. CniCfclC Weave, showing the effect of cracks in glass, china, etc.; sometimes applied to an imitation crepon. (BftlfttCR Blue and white striped cotton or linen twill ; used for children's sailor suits. Galatea was a sea nymph in Grecian mythology. "Laugh and the world laughs with you, Weep and you weep alone." —ELLA WHEELER WILCOX. 54 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Thin cotton fabric, heavier than JaCOflCt cambric. If properly made one side is glazed. Jaconet is derived from the French, Jaconas. Cotton or woolen sheer cloth hav- flMuiTlC" ing raised dots or figures in relief on ti0 plain ground. The design shows a feathery effect, as in embroidery tambour. The name is French for this kind of embroidery, and is derived from plume, French for feather. HOPE. "The rainbow to the storms of life; The evening beam that smiles the clouds away, And tints to-morrow with prophetic ray." — byron. Any cloth treated to make water- proof by the Cravenette Company. Mr. Craven, of Bradford, England, copyrighted a process of treating with parafine and naphtha, and gave his name to it. Craven- ette 55 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. CbCnC Sometimes applied to glace silk, or cotton two-toned effects. The name is literal, meaning shiny, bright, hav- ing a sheen. "Originality is a thing we con- stantly clamor for, and constantly quarrel with." — CARLYLE. ©ntbfC Design of weave in stripes or waves, showing shaded effect from dark to light in same stripe. Ombrer is French for shaded. "If the best man's faults were written on his forehead it would make him pull his hat over his eyes." —GAELIC PROVERB. CtCPOU Large designs in figured crepe. The name applies to the crispiness of the finish. French — Crepon, to make crisp. SOUtflC The largest designs of crepon show a raised or puffed appearance. Souffle is French for puffed up. 56 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Applied to hairy, rough-faced 3B0UtrC weaves ; we have Bourre Souffle, hairy crepons. Bourre is French for hairy. Herringbone weaves show bars CbCVCOIl meeting at an angle, as the markings on the sleeves of military uniforms, or the bones of a herring. Cut cashmere is a cashmere weave, COUpUfC showing lines cut through the twills lengthwise of the piece. Coupure is French for cut through. Cashmere twill on one side or face of cloth ; poplin cord on reverse. "Call not that man wretched who, Whatever ills he suffers, has a child to love." — southey. Cashmere, or worsted twilled-face cloth, with cords woven in the warps, are imitation of corduroy for riding habits. Bedford, a town in Eng- land, gives its name to the weave. Gasb- mere Double Bebforb Gorb 57 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. CotC In France, corded cloth for riding CbCV&l costumes, such as Bedford cord, is called cote cheval. The application being through cheval, horse ; cote, ribbed or lined. HUTIC French measure equaling forty-five inches, used in folding silk in putting up in pieces. Superseded in measur- ing by the metre. JEW Measure formerly used for cloth. In England forty-five inches, Scot- land thirty-seven inches ; rarely used now, as the thirty-six-inch yard is the accepted measure. l^Htb Thirty-six inches in America. The English yard is a standard established by the government, indicated by two marks on a metal rod embedded in the masonry of the Houses of Par- liament. The American yard is sup- posed to be 1-100,000 longer than the English, but is not fixed by gov- ernment standard. 58 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. French measure — the one hun- Ccntl™ dredth part of a metre. tUCtte "Good breeding shows itself most where, to an ordinary eye, it appears the least." —ADDISON. Weave showing the raised lines IbOttCV)" of the bee's comb or nest. Called COlttb Nid d'Abeille in French, meaning bee's nest. Open mesh weave of coarse cot- TTarlc- ton, used mostly in fruit packing; Jjm sometimes for dress and drapery. The name is from Tarlantanna, Milanese for coarse weave of linen and wool. Twill-faced cloth with cord or cut ^^hog- across the warp. The name is from tODOl Sevastopol, the Russian fortified town captured by the English and French in 1855. 59 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. lEOlt 8 " Sheer cloth of silk, silk and wool, CtinC Of or silk and cotton, woven in fine cord HeOliatl e ff ect F rom tne Greek Aeolus, God of the Winds, comes the name. Ap- plied in the sense of a light zephyr weight. (BnilftC Geometrical designs, puffed up in weave, as the markings of a waffle iron. Gaufre is French for waffle. 360UClC Curled hair or wool, woven in any cloth to show the curl, is boucle. The word is French for curl. "A man has no more right to say an uncivil thing than to act one ; no more right to say a rude thing to another than to knock him down." —JOHNSON. Jfloren- tine Heavy twilled mohair fabric for men's wear. Sold largely to Italy and Spain. The name is from Flor- ence, Italy. 60 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Poplin weave of mohair, made in (Branafca coating weight for Spanish trade. Granada is a city in Spain. Corded weave, lengthwise of the Corfceb piece, cotton warp alpaca filling. alpaca One of the first products of the American loom. "There is no gold of such great value as that which is dug from the depths of a sunny nature, to be coined into smiles and helpfulness." Thin, sheer, soft-finished, silk fab- Sar- ric of a veiling kind ; now used as senet millinery lining. The name comes from the Arab Saracens, who wore it in their headdress. Coarse, heavy cloth of cotton and Jfu0tlan flax. First made at Fustat, a town on the Nile, near Cairo. Velveteen and corduroy, in the lower, coarser grades, were sometimes called Fus- tian. 61 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. COft)U" Heavy cotton corded stuff, used T0\) originally for servants' livery. The name is from the French, Cord-du- roy — king's cords. The king's out- door servants wore the cloth. "The manners which one neglects as trifles are often precisely that by which men decide on you favorably or the reverse." $e\t Fabric made by rolling or pressing a pulpy mass or mixture of hair or wool into a flat mat. The name is from the process. To felt, is to mix and press into shape. Xinse^ Coarse cloth of linen flax and Wool- wool, used as skirtings by the British ses peasantry. The name is from the component parts of the cloth. Gbibet Heavy, coarse weave of goat's hair, made by the Thibetans, in Asia, for men's wear. 62 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Originally a hand-knitted woolen XTflCOt fabric, plain or ribbed, used for shawls. Most of the tricot in use to-day is made on old shawl looms, and finished as dress goods. The name is from the French, tricoter, to knit. Heavy cross weave, as the sacking iDOp- in which hops are packed. SaCK Sheer fabric, as etamine, with in- lIMStf HI terwoven, uneven threads, or nubbed yarn in the warp. Mistral is the French name for the strong north- west wind. Silk fabric, made with warp and ©tCjan- weft of same size. Organzine is the 3WC name given the twisted silk thread in Italy, where it is made. " Genius and brilliancy do not in- sure success ; close application and continued effort yield best results." 63 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. ©rlcatt0 Cloth of cotton warp and bright wool filling; made at one time in Orleans, France. Many of the so- called alpacas and mohairs of to-day are Orleans. CrO00 Fabrics with warp and weft of 2)\>C0 different shades ; after weaving they are crossdyed, or redyed, to give solid colors and glace effects. Mo- hairs are mostly treated in this way. SncMtlC? Plain, solid color flannel in special shades for women's dressing sacks ; also applied to a fabric of hemp for grain sacks. BlbH" Sheer fabric with fleecy surface. ttO60 The name is taken from the bird whose downy breast the finish of the fabric resembles. H0tra- Curly-faced cloth resembling the ftban pelt of a breed of Persian sheep called Astrakhan. 64 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Long-piled fabric of the velvet or- plueb der. Peluche, the origin of the name, is French for shaggy. Twilled cotton cloth of light weight, Satine finished to imitate silk satin. Heavy overcoating, with high, Beaver bright finish. The name from the beaver, a North American fur-bearing animal. Silk warp, wool weft, fine twilled 3Bomba= cloth ; originally made in black only 3tne for mourning ; used largely for mourn- ing hat bands. The root of the name is bombyx, Greek for silkworm. Grenadines with large, colored fll>03am= flower designs in relief. The fabric bique was in favor about A. D. 1 860, when the first white settlement was made by the Portuguese on the Island of Mozambique, off the east coast of Africa. 65 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. ilfr&tC" Quilted designs in any fabric; I&66C from the French, matelasser, to stuff or pad. 1kenje£ Heavy cloth for coating, of the beaver range. High satin finish. Made first in Kersey, England, a woolen goods center. C&0£i = Twilled stuff in men's wear weight. UlCrC The name is a variation of cashmere. Cassimere, when properly made, is of cashmere wool. flDOtl- Heavy nubbed overcoating. The t&Qtl&C French montagne for mountain is the origin of the name, being for moun- tain wear. CHStOr Same as beaver, of a lighter weight. Beaver fur is sometimes called castor. CMn- Heavy coating with rough, wavy cMUa face. The name is Spanish for a fur-bearing animal of the mink spe- cies. 66 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Similar to etamine, with a very close mesh ; made first of silk and wool. Tamis is French for sieve. £ami6e Coarse cloth of flax and tow, made in America of cotton, in checks or ®sna- bura plaids; used for furniture covering and mattress making. The town of Osnaburg, in Germany, made the fabric first. Double twilled silk and wool stuff. Named for Melrose, a town on the Tweed, in Scotland. flDel- rose Weaves showing the small, inter- Hrmure laced designs of chain armor. Teasled cotton flannel. The name E>omett is from domestic, or home-made. Napped cotton flannel. Made first for trade with Canton, China. Canton Jflannel Light weight twilled worsted. Same derivative of name as Kersey. 1kerse\>- mere 67 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Cbufcab Applied to billiard cloth; relates to the color. Chudah is the Hindoo name of a bright-green plant. Denim A name to distinguish yarn dyed from piece-dyed heavy cotton twills. Drill or Three-thread cotton or linen Drilling twilled cloth; from the Latin, trilex, of three threads. 3eans Cotton or woolen coarse twilled fabric in cotton used for linings, in wool for men's cheap clothing. The name is from a Genoese coin, relat- ing to the price of the cloth ; so much for one jean. Scrim Open mesh wear of cotton or linen for curtains and linings. The name is from scrimp, referring to the econ- omy in weaving. pongee Soft wash silk made in China from the product of a wild silkworm. The name is from Pun-ki, Chinese for woven at home on own loom. G8 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. Sheer stuff of silk and wool for Barege veiling. Made largely near the town of Bareges, in France. Name given to curled wool fabric Canicbe showing the effect of the coat of the caniche, a French dog. Same as epingline ; same deriva- lEpingle tion. Coarse linen toweling. Crassus, Crasb the Latin origin of the name, means coarse. Nubbed or bourette yarn woven as Bour- design in plain or fancy ground. ette Bourette is French for slightly hairy, applied to the hairy nubs of the yarn. Design showing wavy surface. ©nfcule Onduler is French, to wave. Light worsted yarn ; also light- Zepb^r weight cotton gingham. Zephyrus, Greek for the light west wind. 69 Te.x ■tiles and the Origin of Their Names. 2>am= Flower designs on plain ground. aese Same derivative of name as damask. Seer- Thin silk and linen stuff, made first sucker in India for men's wear. The de- sign was ? set stripes, alternating, plain and crimped, or creped. The name is Anglo-Indian, and is merely dis- tinctive; has no reference to the weave. Cre- Heavy cotton cloth printed in large tonne designs, for drapery and furniture use. Cretonne was a Frenchman who first made the cloth. Minees Same as linsey-woolsey. The name is a change on linsey. Burlap Coarse hempen cloth for packing purposes ; also used for wall-covering. The name is a corruption of the Danish boenlap, a rubbing cloth. 70 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. PEOPLE WE MEET IN DAILY BUSINESS LIFE One who believes in the first per- ^tfoefgt sonal pronoun. Blood brother to a parrot. 180?C One who is fond of facts. CWUC Always in agreement with present company. mat One who steals enough to afford j£lTl = going to jail. \)C&\ZX The other fellow in an argument. JfOOl One who is sure of and strong (3cnlU0 enough to be himself. One who thinks he has a right to ffjCatbCll his own God. The man whom you think dislikes Ufriot you. A person who helps lawyers to Ju^Ot pervert justice. 71 7Y.1 tiles and the Origin of Their Names. IRlepto- One who steals that which he is maniac able to buy. Xaw^er One who tries to show how fool- ish most laws are. flfeor- One who has found a way around mon the VNth commandment. IReigb- One whom you wish did not live bor next door. ©pti- A person who believes the worst mtet is here. peesl- One who believes the worst is yet mist to come. <&uib- A person who should be a law- bler yer. •{Re- One who thinks he can change the former course of Niagara by shouting at it. Social- A lazy man who covets his fel- ist lows* earnings. battler A person with an ingrowing con- science, which prompts him to telling mean things. 72 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. The august personage who keeps TIteber timid people in their— to him — proper place. One who knows the earth is an IDagrant oyster. A reader of the funny papers. UGlit What we should call the average San- daily paper editor. those One who wants to tax every busi- lj)anfcee ness but his own. One who works overtime. Zealot 73 • Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. CONCLUSION Dan Hix was a village character where I lived as a boy. He was a stupid old fellow who owned a box- bed wagon and a scraggly horse. With this outfit he hauled kindling wood from the sawmill and ashes to the dump. The boys of the village were talk- ing one evening of Dan's stupidity. One ventured the opinion, Dan could not be taught to spell his very short name in a week. Another offered to wager he could teach Dan to spell it right off in that time. Small wagers were made for and against the propo- sition. Dan, on being asked how he would like to be able to spell his own name, promptly agreed it would be the one thing desirable. One of the boys was told off to arrange for the test at the week's end, and the teacher started with Dan. Along about the third night the report came, 74 Textiles and the Origin of Their Names. "Dan can spell his name." Satur- day night came; the test was to be made. The teacher told with pride : "Dan had not only learned to spell his name, but had learned the alpha- bet as well." All the boys who knew of the affair were on the village common. Whichever way the de- cision went a bean feast was to fol- low. Dan, mounted on a pile of lumber, poor, simple Dan. I can see his grin of pride in his accomplish- ment now. The boy teacher started Dan to spell, a letter at a time. Now, Dan, the first letter. "D," said Dan, and on he went to H and I, then hesitating, as if in doubt; the teacher urged him with, "Why, Dan, what's the last letter? You had it pat an hour ago." Dan's face bright- ened as he yelled, " Izzard, be gosh! " and lost for his backers. Poor Dan was overtrained, and showed how it was possible to know too much. 75 36 91 *«°* V .» ^ ; y % *^/ ^ ~v -saw y % *^v • SIS * «*►* ^a o VJIak * v ^ • JS/HF o* o • * • ♦ %> J> ! HECKMAN !±f) :£&[•* %A* SMMh* %