Uniform with iJiis volume. OLD LANDMARKS AND Historic Fields of Middlesex. By SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE. Illustrated. Price $2.00. Roberts Brothers, Publishers. OLD LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Old Landmarks AND Historic Personages OF BOSTON. By SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE. JIllustratEti. BOSTON: ROBERTS BROTHERS. 1876. ^73 . 37 .D77 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. FIFTH EDITION. Cambridge : Press-work by John Wdson 6^ Son. PREFACE. THE author has had a twofold object in presenting this work for the acceptance of the public. Besides the preservation of the old landmarks, now so rapidly disappearing before the era of improvement, there is a very general desire to know where the actors lived who have given Boston such prominence in the history of our country. The plan has been adopted, in viewing old localities, to tell for what they have been famous, and to briefly charac- terize or give some conspicuous traits and public services of the personages mentioned. In view of the limits prescribed for this volume it has been found necessary to condense from the abundant ma- terial in the author's possession, but it is believed the more important features have been given. While the numerous local publications have been care- fully examined, the author has in all cases preferred orig- inal authorities in the work of compilation, and has en- deavored to give credit wdiere it is due. The beaten track has been avoided as far as possible, and preference given to such topics as have either escaped mention altogether, or received but little notice from former writers. In a work so largely statistical it would be a surprise if errors did not exist, but unwearied pains have been taken to avoid them and to render the work as free from this objection as possible. VI PREFACE. The author believes that antiquarian subjects need not of necessity be either dry or uninteresting, and has aimed to make these pages agreeable to the general reader, — a class he is happy to say in which a growing interest in the early history of the founders of JSTew England is evident. Many persons have laid the author under obligations by the loan of documents or by communicating valuable information. He would express his deep sense of the favors and assistance rendered him by that eminent and thoroughly unselfish antiquarian, John Ward Dean, and also by Miss E. S. Quincy and John H. Dexter. Among the many persons consulted, who have kindly contributed in various ways to the success of this work, are Captain George H. Preble, U. S. K, Isaac Story, Lemuel Shaw, George Mountfort, William H. Montague, J. Win- gate Thornton, Eowland Ellis, and Timothy Dodd, Esqrs., the latter of whom, at the advanced age of ninety- three, retained a clear recollection of Boston as it existed three quarters of a century ago. Boston, Mass., October 22, 1872. CONTENTS INTRODUCTIOISr. Myles Standish. — William Blackstone. — Sliawmut. — Settlement by Winthrop's Company. — Trimountain. — Boston, — Physical Features. — Area. — Settlement by Indians. — Character of first Buildings. — First Location of the Settlers. — Geographical Divisions. — Wood and Water. — Dress. — Manners and Customs. — Slavery. — Curious old Laws. — Government of the Town. — Allotment of Lands. — Intoler- ance of the Times. — The Pulpit a Means of Intelligence. — Accounts by various Writers. — Town Records. — General Growth and Progi-ess. — Population. — Wards. — Paving the Streets. — Lighting the Streets. — Supply of Water. — Enlargement of Boston. — Commmiication with Mainland. — Ferries. — Bridges. — Coaches, Public and Private. — Railways CHAPTER I. king's chapel and the neighborhood. History of the Chapel. — Establishment of the Church of England. — Chapel Burial-Ground, — Boston Athenagura. — Academy of Arts and Sciences. — Historical Society. — The Museum. — Tlie Old Corner. — Royal Custom House. — Washington. — H. G. Otis. — Daniel Webster. — Tremont Street. — Howard Street. — Pemberton Hill. — Endicott. — Captain Southack. — Theodore Lyman, Senior. — John Cotton. — Sir Henry Vane. — Samuel Sewall. — Gardiner Greene. — Earl Percy. — Bellingham. — Faneuil. — Phillips. — Davenport. — Oxenbridge. — Beacon Street. — School Street. — Latin School. — Franklin Statue. — City Hall. — Otis. — Warren. — Mascarene. — Cromwell's Head. — The Old Corner Bookstore. — Anne Hutchinson. — Tlie French Church. — Catholic Church. — Second Universalist. — Province Street. — Chap- man Place. — James Lovell. — The Wendells 28 VIU CONTENTS. CHAPTER II. FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. Hanover Street. — General Warren. — The Orange-Tree. — Concert Hall. — Brattle Street. — Samuel Gore. — John Smibert. — Nathaniel Smi- bert. — Colonel Trumbull. — The Adelphi. — ScoUay's Buildings and Square. — Queen Street Writing School. — Master James Carter. — Cornhill. — Brattle Street Parsonage. — Old Prison. — Captain Kidd. — Court Houses. — Franklin Avenue. — Kneeland. — Franklin. — Edes and Gill. — Green and Russell. — First Book and Newspaper printed in Boston. — Rufus Choate. — Governor Leverett. — John A. Andrew. — Henry Dunster. — Town Pump. — Old Brick. — General Knox, — Count Rumford. — John Winslow 68 CHAPTER III. FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. Captain Keayne. — Coggan, first Shopkeeper, — Old Cornhill. — Old State House. — First Church. — Stocks and Wliipping-Post. — John Wilson. — Wilson's Lane. — United States Bank. — Royal Exchange Tavern. — William Sheaffe. — Royal Custom House. — Exchange Cof- "fee House. — "Columbian Centinel." — Benjamin Russell. — Louis Philippe. — Louis Napoleon. — Congress Street. — Governors Dummer and Belcher. — First United States Custom House. — Post-Office. — Bunch of Grapes. — General Lincoln. — General Dearborn. — First Circulating Library. — British Coffee House. — Merchants' Row. — First Lm. — Lord Ley. — Miantonimoh. — Kilby Street. — Oliver's Dock. — Liberty Square. — The Stamp Office. — Broad Street. — Com- modore Downes. — Broad Street Riot. — India Street and Wliarf. — Admiral Vernon. — Crown Coffee House. — Butler's Row. — The Custom House, — Retrospective View of State Street. — Long Wharf. — The Barricado. — T Wharf. —Embarkation for Bunker Hill . . 88 CHAPTER lY. BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. Old Cornhill. — Paul Revere. — Amos and Abbott Lawrence. — Boyls- ton's Alley. — Barracks of the 29th. — Blue Anchor. — Brattle Street Church. — General Gage. — Howe, Clinton, and Burgojme. — John Adams. — Headquarters of Stage-Coaches. — Dock Square. — The Conduit. — Town Dock described. — Quincy Market. — Origin of Mar- kets in Boston. — The Triangular Warehouse. — Roebuck Passage. — Clinton Street. — The Old Market Museum. — Old Cocked Hat. — Faneuil Hall. — D'Estaing. — Lafayette. — Jackson. —Prince de Join- ville. — Jerome Bonaparte. — Lord Ashburton. — The Portraits, — Com Court. — Hancock House. — Talleyrand. — State Custom House. — The Consci'iption Riot 118 CONTEXTS. IX CHAPTER V. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. Tlie North End. — Boston Stone. — Painters' Arras. — Louis Philippe. — Union, Ehu, and Portland Streets. — Benjamin Franklin's Residence. — The Blue Ball. — LJ^nan Beecher's Church. — Benjamin Hallowell. — Green Dragon. — Pope Day. — St. Andrew's Lodge. — INIill Pond. — Causeway. — Mill Creek. — North Street. — Sir D. Ochterlony. — East- ern Stage House. — Cross Street. — The Old Stone House. — New Brick Church. — The Red Lyon. — Nicholas Upshall. — Edward Randolph. — North Square. — Sir H. Frankland. — Major ShaAv. — Pitcairn, — Old North Church. — Cotton, Samuel, and Increase Mather. — Governor Hutchinson. — General Boyd. — Fleet Street. — King's Head Tavern. — Bethel Church. — Father Taylor. — Hancock's Wharf. — Swinging Signs. — First Uuiversalist Church. — First Methodist. — New North. — Ship Tavern. — Noah's Ark. — Salutation Tavern. — The Boston Caucus. — The North Battery. — Trucks and Ti'uckmen . . .143 CHAPTER VI. A VISIT TO THE OLD SHIPYARDS. Early Ship-Building. — Boston Shipyards. — Massachusetts Frigate. — New Enghmd Naval Flag. — First Seventy-Four. — Hartt's Naval Yard. — The Constitution. — Her Launch, History, and Exploits. — Anecdotes of Hull, Bainbridge, and Decatur, — Old Ironsides Rebuilt. — Josiah Barker. — Nicholson. — Preble. — Stewart. — Other Distin- guished Officers. — Escape from the British Fleet. — Anecdote of Dr. Bentley. — Action with the Guerriere. — Tlie Java. — Cyane and Le- vant. — Relics of Old Ironsides. — Affair of the Figure-Head. — Cap- tain Dewey. — The Frigate Boston. — Capture of Le Berceau. — Tlie Argus 178 CHAPTER YII. COPP'S HILL AND THE VICINITY. Copp's Hill. — British Works. — Ancient Arch. — Wm. Gray. — Old Ferry. — Reminiscences of Bunker Hill. — The Cemetery. — Curious Stones, Epitaphs, etc. — Old Funeral Customs. — Cliarter Street. — Sir William Phips. — John Foster Williams. — John Hull. — Colonial Mint. — Clirist Church. — Revere's Night Ride. — The Chimes. — The Vaults, — Legends of. — Major Pitcairn. — Love Lane. — North Latin School. — Prince Street. — Salem Church. — North End Heroes. — Captain Manly. — Massachusetts Spy. — First Baptist Church. — Sec- ond Baptist Church. — Draft Riot, 1863 198 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. Marlborough Street, — Governor Winthrop. — Old South. — Warren's Orations. — Tea-Party Meeting, — British Occupation. — Phillis "Wheatley. — Spring Lane. — Heart and Crown. — Boston Evening Post. —Province House. — Samuel Shute, — William Burnet. — Wil- liam Shirley, — Thomas Pownall. — Francis Bernard. — General Gage. — Lexington Expedition. — Sir William Howe. — Coxmcil of War. — Court Dress and Manners. — Governor Strong. — Blue Bell and In- dian Queen. — Lieutenant-Governor Gushing. — Josiah Quiucy, Jr, — Mayor Quincy 225 CHAPTER IX. FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. Birthplace of Franklin. — James Boutineau, — Bowdoin Block, — Hawley Street, — Devonshire and Franklin Streets. — Joseph Barrell. — The Tontine. — Boston Librai'y. — Cathedral of the Holy Cross. — Bishop Cheverus. — Federal Street Theatre. — Some Account of Early Theatricals in Boston. — Kean, Finn, Macready, etc. — Jolm How- ard Payne. — Federal Street Church. — The Federal Convention. — Madam Scott, — Robert Treat Paine, — Thomas Paine, — Congress Street, — Quaker Church and Burying-Groimd. — Sketch of the So- ciety of Friends in Boston. — Merchants' Hall. — Governor Shirley's Funeral. — Fire of 1760. —Pearl Street. —The Ropewalks. — The ' Grays. — Conflicts between the Rope-Makers and the Regulars. — Pearl Street House, — Spurzheim. — Washington Allston. — Theophi- lus Parsons. — T. H, Perkins. — Governor Oliver. — Quincy Mansion. —Governor Gore. —Liverpool Wharf. —Tea Party and Incidents of. — The Sconce. — Governor Andros Deposed. — Sun Tavern. — Fort HiU 251 CHAPTER X. A TOljR ROUND THE COMMON. Long Acre. — Tremont House. — Mr. Clay. — President Jackson.— Charles Dickens. — Little House-Lot. — Tremont Tlieatre. — The Ca- dets. — Adino Paddock, — Paddock's Mall. — Granary Burying- Ground. — The Granary. — Almshouse. — Workhouse. — Bridewell. — Park Street Cliurch. —Manufactory House. — Linen-Spinning In- troduced. — Elisha Brown. — Massachusetts Bank. — Incident of the Lexington Expedition. — The Common. — Its Origin. — Tlie Great Mall. — Fences. — Winter Street. — Governor Bernard. — John Mc- Lean. — Samuel Adams. — St. Paul's. — Masonic Temple. — Margaret Fuller. — Washington Gardens. — The Haymarket. — West Street. — CONTENTS. XI The Gun-House. — Colonnade Row. — Massachusetts Medical College. — Hayinarket Theatre. — Boylstou Street. — John Quiucy Adams. — General Moreau. — Charles Francis Adams ..... 2S9 CHAPTER XI. A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON CONTINUED. Common Burying-Ground. — Joshua Bates. — Public Garden. — Rope- walks. — Topography of the Common. — British Troops on. — Descrip- tion of their Camps. — The Light Horse. — Powder House. — Old Elm. — Witchcraft and Quaker E.xecutions. — The Duel in 1728. — Mill-Dam. — Mexican Volunteers. — Beacon Street. — Prescott. — Copley. — John Phillips. — Wendell Phillips. — Robert C. Winthrop. — Hancock Mansion. — Governor Hancock. — General Clinton. — State House. — Public Statues, etc. — The Beacon. — The Monument. — Lafayette's Residence. — George Ticknor. — Malbone. — Samuel Dexter. — Incidents of Lafayette's Visit in 1824. — Josiali Quiucy, Jr. — Historical Resume. — Repeal of the Stamp Act .... 323 CHAPTER XII. VALLEY ACRE, THE BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. Governor Bowdoin. — General Burgoyne. — Boston Society in 1782. — David Hinckley's Stone Houses. — James Lloyd. — Lafayette. — Dan- iel Davis. — Admiral Davis. — Historic Genealogical Society. — Valley Acre. — Uriah Cotting. — Governor Eustis. — Anecdote of Governor Brooks. — Millerite Tabernacle. — Howard Athenaeum. — Bowling Green. — Old Boston Physicians. — Charles Bulfinch. — New Fields. — Peter Cliardon. — Mrs. Pelham. — Peter Pelham. — Thomas Melvill. — Dr. William Jenks. — Captain Gooch. — West Church. — Leverett Street Jail. — Poor Debtors. — Almshouse. — Massachusetts General Hospital. — Medical College. — National and Eagle Theatres . . 361 CHAPTER XIIT. FROM CnURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. Church Green. — New South Cliurch. — Dr. Kirkland. — American Head- quarters. — General Heath. — Anecdote of General Gates. — Jerome Bonaparte. — Sir William Pepperell. — Nathaniel Bowditch. — George Bancroft. — Trinity Cliurch. — Seven Star Inn and Lane. — Peter Faneuil. —Governor Sullivan. —Small Pox Parties. —Duke of Kent. — Sir Edmund Andros. —Lamb Tavern. —White Horse Tavern. — Colonel Daniel Messinger. — Lion Tavern. — Handel and Haydn So- ciety. — Lion Theatre. — Curious Statement about Rats . . .380 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. Liberty Tree. — Its History. — Hanover Square. — Liberty Hall. — Hanging in Effigy. — Auchmuty's Lane. — The Old Suffolk Bench and Bar. — Boylston Market. — Charles Matthews. — James E. Murdoch. — Peggy Moore's. — Washington Bank. — Beach Street Museum. — Essex Street. — Rainsford's Lane. — Harrison Avenue. — Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, — General John Coffin. — Anecdote of Admiral Coffin, — Sir Thomas Aston Coffin. — Henry Bass. — Old Distill-Houses. — Manufacture of Rum. — Gilbert Stuart, — Anecdotes of. — First Glass Works. — Disappearance of Trees. — Early planting of Trees. — Sir Roger Hale Sheaffe. — South Cove. — Hollis Street, — Colonel John Crane. — General Ebenezer Stevens. — Mather Byles, — Anecdotes of. — Hollis Street Church. — Fire of 1787 396 CHAPTER XV. THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. Tlie Neck described, — Measures to protect the Road, — Paving the Neck. — Henry T. Tuckerman. — Old Houses vs. Modern. — Massa- chusetts Mint. — The Gallows. — Anecdote of Warren. — Executions. — Early Fortifications. — The British Works and Armament. — Amer- ican Works. — George Tavern. — Washington's Staff. — His Personal Traits. — Washington House. — Washington Hotel. — Anecdotes of George Tavern, — Scarcity of Powder, — Continental Flags. — Entry of Washington's Army. — Entry of Rochambeau's Army. — Paul Jones 418 INDEX 439 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page America in Distress 359 Ancient House in Dock Square 133 Ancient Mill 199 Ancient Ship 178 Beacon, The 349 Blue Ball, The 146 Boston Stone 143 Boston Theatre and Franklin Street 257 Brattle Street Church 123 British Lines on Boston Neck, 1775 425 Cavalier 11 Christ Church 213 Colonial Currency, One Penny . . 237 Colonial Currency, Two Pence 237 Colonial Currency, Three Pence * . . . 238 Colonial Stamp, Half-Penny 239 Colonial Stamp, Two Pence 240 Colonial Stamp, Three Pence 240 Colonial Stamp, Four Pence 240 Colony Seal 242 Constitution's Figure-Head carried in the War of 1812 .... 182 Constitution hauled up on the Ways 192 Endicott cutting out the Cross 48 Exchange Coffee-House 98 Faneuil Hall before its Enlargement 134 Faneuil Hall with Quincy Market 136 Faneuil Hall Lottery Ticket 343 Faneuil, Peter, Autograph 387 First Baptist Church in 1853 151 Franklin's Birthplace 252 Frankland's Mansion 1(34 Gage, General, Autograph 243 Glasgow Frigate . 208 XIV ILLUSTRATIONS. Granary Burying- Ground 297 Great Mall, Hayniarket and Theatre . . . . . Frontispiece Hancock House 339 Hollis Street Church 415 Indian Wigwam .>.... 8 Julien House 270 King's Chapel in 1872 . . . 29 Lafayette's Residence 353 Liberty Tree 397 Linen SiDiuuing-Wheel 302 Massachusetts Cent of 1787 422 Massachusetts General Hospital 377 Mather Tomb 204 Monument (Beacon Hill) . . 350 New Brick Church 156 New England Flag 179 New North Church 173 New South Church 380 Old Brick auTrch 84 Old Corner Bookstore 62 Old Court-House 59 Old Elm, The 330 Old Federal Street Church 263 Old King's Chapel 31 Old Loom 322 Old Printing-Press 79 Old South 227 Old State House in 1791 89 Old Trinity Church • 386 Parliamentary Stamp Half-Penny 81 Parliamentary Stamp Shilling 81 Park Street Church 301 Pillory, The 93 Pine-Tree Shilling, 1652 211 Province House 235 Repeal Obelisk 358 Revere's Picture of Boston in 1768 ....... 119 Saint Paul's Church 310 Sears Estate 335 Shirley, Governor, Ai-ms . .36 Shirley, Governor, Portrait 28 Ship of the Time of the Pilgrims 180 ILLUSTRATIONS. XV Sign of Three Doves . , 147 Six-Penuy Piece 212 Speaker's Desk and "Winslow's Chair 347 St. Botolph's Church 6 Stocks, The 92 Tea Chest 282 Three-Penny Piece 212 Triangular Warehouse 131 Trimountain 3 Trinity Church in 1872 387 Trophy of Indian Weapons ^ 1 United States Bank 95 Washington's Lodgings 42 West Church . . .374 Window of Brattle Street Church, with Ball 124 Winthrop fording the River 25 W^oollen Spinning- Wheel 302 INTEODUCTION. Myles Standish. — William Blackstoue. — Sha\vmi;t. — Settlement by Win- throp's Company. — Trimonntain. — Boston. — Physical Features. — Area. — Settlement by Indians. — Character of first Buildings. — First Location of the Settlers. — Geographical Divisions. — Wood and Water. — Dress. — Manners and Customs. — Slavery. — Curious old Laws. — Government of the Town. — Allotment of Lands. — Intolerance of the Times. — The Pulpit a Means of Intelligence. — Accounts by various Writers. — Towti Records. — General Growth and Progress. — Population. — Wards. — Paving the Streets. — Lighting the Streets. — Supply of Water. — En- largement of Boston. — Communication with Mainland. — Ferries. — Bridges. — Coaches, public and private. — Railways. AX old Boston divine says, " It would be no unprofitable thing for you to pass over the several streets and call to mind who lived here so many years ago." We learn from the poet Gay how to prepare for our rambles through the town : — " How to walk clean by day, and safe by night ; How jostling crowds with prudence to decline, When to assert the wall and when resign." To see or not to see is the problem presented to him who walks tlie streets of town or village. AVliat to one is a heap of ruins or a blank wall may to another become the abode of the greatest of our ancestors or the key to a remote period. A mound of earth becomes a battlement ; a graveyard, a collection of scattered pages whereon we read the history of the times. Facts are proverbially dry, and we shall trouble the reader as little as possible with musty records or tedious chronology ; 1 A U LANDMAKKS OF BOSTON. but before we set out to explore and reconstruct, a brief glance at the material progress of Boston seems desirable. For a hundred years Boston must be considered as little more than a sea-shore village, straggling up its thicket-grown hillsides. The Indian camp-fire, the axe of Blackstone, the mattock and spade of Winthrop's band, — each have their story and their lesson. We shall pass each period in rapid review. Whether Myles Standish, "broad in the shoulders, deep- chested, with muscles and sinews of iron," was the first white man who stood on the beach of the peninsula is a matter merely of conjecture. Certain it is that in 1621 this redoubtable Puritan soldier, with ten companions, sailed from Plymouth and landed somewhere in what is now Boston Bay. They crossed the bay, " which is very large, and hath at least fifty islands in it " ; and, after exploring the shores, decided " that better har- bors for shipping there cannot be than here." They landed, hobnobbed with Obbatinewat, lord of the soil, feasted upon lobsters and boiled codfish, and departed, leaving no visible traces for us to pursue. This expedition was undertaken to secure the friendship of the " Massachusetts " Indians, — a result fully accomplished by Standish. The Indians told the Englishmen that two large rivers flowed into the bay, of which, however, they saw but one. This cir- cumstance, indefinite as it is, justifies the opinion that Stan- dish's party landed at Shawmut, the Indian name for our penin- sula. If they had landed at Charlestown and ascended the heights there, as is supposed by some writers, they could hardly have escaped seeing both the Mystic and Charles, while at Shawmut they would probably have seen only the latter river. In William Blackstone, Episcopalian, we have the first white settler of the peninsula. The date of his settlement has been supposed to have been about 1626, although there is nothing conclusive on this point known to the writer. Here he was, however, in 1628, when we find him taxed by the Plymouth Colony twelve shillings, on account of the expenses incurred by the colony in the caj^ture of Thomas Morton at Mount Wollaston."* * Belknap's American Biography. INTRODUCTION. TKIMOUNTAIN. The place where IMackstone located his dwelling has given rise to much controversy, but can be fixed with some degree of certainty. Like a sen- sible man, Blackstone chose ^-^-. --^^ the sunny southwest slope ^^^"^-^ =^^^^& of Beacon Hill for his res- _.— --^-^ ->^^^^^ idence. The records show " -i- that inApril, 1G33, ''it is ~ ^^" agreed that William Black- stone shall have fifty acres set out for him near his house in Boston to enjoy forever." In the following year Blackstone sold the town all of his allotment except six acres, on part of Avhich his house then stood ; the sale also including all his right in and to the peninsula, — a right thus, in some form, recog- nized by Winthrop and his associates. The price paid for the whole peninsula of Boston was £ 30, assessed upon the inhabi- tants of the town, some paying six shillings, and some more, according to their circumstances and condition. The Charlestown records locate Blackstone as " dwelling on the other side of Charles Eiver, alone, to a place by the Indians called Sliawmut,* where he only had a cottage at a place not far off the place called Blackstone's Point " ; this is also con- firmed by Edward Johnson in 1030, in his " AVonder Work- ing Providence." After the purchase by the town of Black- stone's forty-four acres, they laid out the " training field, which was ever since used for that purpose and the feeding of cattle." This was the origin of Boston Common. Two landmarks ex- isted to fix the site of BlackvStone's house, namely, the orchard planted by him, — the first in New England, — and his spring. Tlie orchard is represented on the early maps ; is mentioned in 1765 as still bearing fruit; and is named in tlie deeils of sul> * Perliaps an abbreviation of " Mushauwonink," as given in Grindal llawson's " Confessions of Faith," printed in 1699, Probably meaning unclaimed land. 4 LANDMAliKS OF BOSTON. sequent possessors. Tlie spring, whicli must have determined to some extent the location of tlie house, was probahly near the junction of Beacon Street with Charles, although others existed in the neighborhood. The six acres which Mr. Blackstone re- served have been traced through Richard Pepys, an original pos- sessor by a sufficiently clear connection, — supplied where broken by depositions, — to the jMount Vernon proprietors. Copley, the celebrated painter, was once an owner of Blackstone's six acres, which were bounded by the Common on the south and the river on the west. Blackstone was as singular a character as can be found in the annals of Boston. He is supposed to have come over with Eobert Gorges in 1623. But what induced him to withdraw to such a distance from the settlements remains a mystery. By a coincidence, his namesake. Sir William Blackstone, the great commentator of tlie laws of England, wrote at a later jDcriod the following lines : — "As by some tyrant's stern command, A wretch forsakes his natix'e land, In foreign climes condemned to roam, An endless exile from his home." The nature of Blackstone's claim to the peninsula is doubt- ful, though we have seen it recognized by Wintlirop's com- pany. ]\rather grumblingly alludes to it thus in his jMagnalia : " There were also some godly Episcopalians ; among whom has been reckoned Mr. Blackstone ; who, by happening to sleep first in an old hovel upon a point of land there, laid claim to all the ground whereupon there now stands the Metropolis of the whole English America, until the inhabitants gave him satisfaction." This concedes only a squatter's title to Black- stone. He seems to have had a kind heart, capable of feeling for the sufferings of his fellow-men, for, hearing of the vicissi- tudes of Wintlirop's infant settlement at Charlestown by disease and death, he invites them over to Shawmut in 1G30. AYater, the great desideratum of a settlement, was very scarce at Charlestown, and Blackstone " came and acquainted the Gov- ernor of an excellent spring there^ withal inviting him and INTRODUCTION. 5 soliciting him tliither." If seclusion was Blackstone's object, it gave way to liis interest in the welfare of his fellow-colonists. Upon Blackstone's advice the Charlestown settlers acted, and many removed to Shawmut by the end of August, 1G30. In the tirst boat-load that went over was Anne Pollard, M'ho lived to be nearly, if not quite, one hundred and live years old. vShe herself related, when more than one hundred years of age, that she "came over in one of the first ships that arri^'ed in Charlestown ; that in a day or two after her arrival, on account of the water there being bad, a number of the young people, including herself, took the ship's boat to cross over to Boston ; that as the boat drew up towards the shore, she (being then a romping girl) declared she would be the lii-st to land, and accordingly, before any one, jumped from the bow of the boat on to the beach." According to this statement, which is based upon good authority, Anne Pollard was the first white female that tn)d upon the soil of Boston. Hudson's Point, now the head of Charlestown bridge, but formerly the site of the old ferry, was probably the place where Anne first left the impress of her foot. Her portrait, at the age of one hundred and three years, is in the possession of the ]Massachusetts His- torical Society, and her deposition, at the age of eiglity-nine years, was used to substantiate the location of Blackstone's house. In it she says that ^Ir. Blackstone, after his removal from - Boston, frequently resorted to her husband's house, and that she never heard any controversy about the land, between her husband, Pepys, or Blackstone, but that it Avas always reputed to belong to the latter. Blackstone, in 1634, removed to Pehoboth, not liking, we may conclude, the close proximity of his Puritan neighbors, of whom he is reported to have said, that he left Eughuul l)ecause of his dislike to the Lords Bishoj)s, but now he would not be under the Lords Brethren. In 1G59 Blackstone was married to ^lary Stevenson of Boston, widow, by Governor Endicott. He died in 107'), a short time before the breaking out of King Philip's War, during which his plantation was ravaged by the Indians, and his dwelling LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. destroyed, with his papers and books, — a circumstance that has prevented, perhaps, the veil being hfted that slirouds his early history. It is said no trace of his grave exists ; but he left his name to a noble river, and the city which he founded per- petuates it by a public square and street. The settlers at Charlestown called Shawmut Trimountain, not, says Shaw, on account of the three principal hills, — subse- quently Copp's, Beacon, and Fort, — but from the three peaks of Beacon Hill, which was then considered quite a high mountain, and is so spoken of by Wood, one of the early writers about Boston ; the reader will know that Beacon and its two outlying spurs of Cotton (Pemberton) and Mt. Vernon are meant. On the 7th of September, 1630 (old style), at a court held in Charlestown, it was ordered that Trimountain be called Boston. Many of the set- tlers had already taken up their residence there, and " thither the frame of the governor's house was car- ried, and people began to build their houses against winter." Clinging to the old associations of their native land, the settlers, named their new home for old Boston in Lincolnshire, England, whence a num- ber of members of the com- pany had emigrated. The name itself owes its origin to Botolph, a pious old Saxon of the seventh cen- tury, afterwards canonized ST. BoroLPH's, BOSTON, KsoLxsD. as tlie tutelar saint of mar- iners, and shows an ingenuity of corruption for which England is famed. Keciprocal courtesies have been exchanged l)etween English Boston and lier namesake. The former presented her INTRODUCTION. 7 charter in a frame of the wood of old Saint Botolph's church, which hangs in our City Hall, while Edward Everett, in the name of the descendants and admirers of John Cotton, gave $ 2,000 for the restoration of a chapel in St. Botolph's, and the erection therein of a monument to the memory of that much venerated divine, who had been vicar of St. Botolph's and afterwards minister of the First Church of Christ in Boston, New England. Boston had three striking topographical features. First, its peninsular character, united by a narrow isthmus to the main land ; next, its three hills, of which the most westerly (Beacon) was the highest, all washed at their base by the sea ; and lastly, corresponding to her hills, were three coves, of which the most easterly, enclosed by the headlands of Copp's and Fort Hill, became the Town Cove and Dock. Of the other coves, the one lying to the south of the Town Cove was embraced between the point of land near the foot of South Street, formerly known as Windmill Point, and the head of the bridge to South Boston ; this bight of water was the South Cove. A third inlet on the northwest of the peninsula, lying between the two points of land from which now extend bridges to Charlestown and East Cambridge, became subsequently the Mill Pond, by the build- ing of a causeway on substantially the present line of Causeway Street. Only the most salient features are here given ; other interesting peculiarities will be alluded to in their places. At high tides the sea swept across the narrow neck, and there is every reason to believe also covered the low ground now traversed by Blackstone Street. This would make, for the time being, two islands of Boston. The early names given to the streets on the water front described the sea margin, as Fore (North) Beach, and Back (now Salem) Streets. In process of time these distinctive characteristics have all changed. Boston can no longer be called a peninsula ; one of its summits. Fort Hill, has to-day no existence, while the others have been so shorn of their proportions and altitude as to pre- sent a very different view from any quarter of approacli ; as for the three coves, they have been converted into terra Jirma. 8 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The area of original Boston has been variously estimated. By Shaw, at 700 acres ; Dr. Morse, tlie geographer, placed it in 1800 at 700 acres, admitting that some accounts fix it as high as 1,000 acres, while Dr. Shurtleff says less than 1,000 acres. There is good authority, however, for computing the original peninsula at not more than 625 acres of hrm ground. To this has been added, by the filling of the Mill Pond, 50 acres ; the South Cove, 75 acres (up to 1837) ; and by the filling of the Town Cove or Dock, and the building of new streets on the water front, enough had been reclaimed by 1852 to amount to GOO acres, — nearly the original area. Since that time the Back Bay improvement, which covers 680 acres, and Atlantic Avenue, which follows the old Barricado line, have added as much more to the ancient territory, so that we may safely consider her original limits trebled, without reference to what has been acquired by annexation. At the time of the English settlement hostilities existed be- tween the Massachusetts and the eastern Indians ; tlie natives, who seldom neg- lected to provide ^ for retreat in case ^Rai of defeat, chose rather to locate their villages far- ther inland, at ^lystic and else- r~MM A'here. There is evi- dence, however, ^" that Shawmut was either inhabited by the Indians at a very early period, or used as a place of sepul- ture by them. Dr. Mather related that three hundred skull- bones had been dug up on Cotton (Pemberton) Hill when he was a youth, and tradition long ascribed to tliis locality a sort of Golgotlia. To support this view there was found in April 1733, says the Kew England Journal, a number of skulls and INDIAN WIGWAM. IXTRODUCTIOX. 9 larger liuman bones by workmen digging in a garden near Dr. Cooper's house on Cotton Hill. These remains were considered, at the time, to be those of the natives. Boston has been thoroughly excavated without finding any further material to confirm this belief. The cliaracter of the first buildings was extremely rude. They were of wood, with thatched roofs, and chimneys built of pieces of wood placed crosswise, the interstices and outside covered with clay. Such was the economy of the times, that Governor Winthrop reproved his deputy, in 1G32, "that he did not well to bestow so much cost about wainscotting and adorning his house in the beginning of a plantation, both in regard of the public charges, and for example." Tlie answer Avas, that it was for the warmth of his house, and tlie charge was little, being but clapboards nailed to the walls in the form of wainscot.'^ It is comparatively recent that Boston began to be a city of brick and stone. A few solidly built structures were scattered here and there over a wide area ; but the mass were of wood, in spite of some attempts made by the town to induce a safer and more durable stylo of architecture. A lady, entering Boston in 1795, remarks: "The ranges of wooden buildings all situated witli one end towards the street, and the numerous chaises we met, drawn by one horse, the driver being placed on a low seat in front, a})peared to me very singular." Another writer ob- serves of tlie town in 1805 : "The houses were most of tliom wood, seldom enlivened by paint, and closely resembling tlie old- fashioned, dark-looking edifices still to be seen in Newport, R. I." At this time there was but one brick house in the whole of Tremont Street, and it was not until 1793 that the fh'st block of brick buildings was erected in what is now Franklin Street. In 1803 the inflammable character of the town was thus described : — " A p>Te of shapeless structures crowds the spot, Where taste, and all hut clieajjuess is forgot. One little spark the fiuieral pile may lire, And Post on, blazing, see itself expire." * Winthrop's Journal, p. 88. 1* 10 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Winthrop's company located chiefly within the space com- prised between what are now Milk, Bromtield, Tremont, and Hanover Streets and the water. Pemberton Hill was also a favorite locality, as we shall have occasion to note. The North End, by removals and accessions, soon became also settled ; that portion of the town lying north of Union Street being thus designated, while all south of that boundary was called the South End. A third geographical division, embracing the district lying to the west and north of Beacon Hill, and west and south of the JNIill Pond, was known as New Boston, and also as West Boston, and finally as the West End. These names have been retained, but the boundaries of all but the North End have been considered movable, and would be diffi- cult to follow. The first settlers found Boston thinly wooded, whatever its original condition may have been. The timber lay mainly along the Neck, with clumps of trees here and there. The great elm on the Common is doubtless one of native growth, and be- fore the I\e volution of 1776 there was anotlier almost equally large near the corner of what is now West and Tremont Streets. Traditions exist of the Indians having planted on the penin- sida, clearing away the wood, as is their custom, by burning. There are old houses now standing at the North End, the tim- bers of which, some of them a foot square, are said to have been cut near Copp's Hill. Water Avas abundant and good. Besides the spring or springs near Blackstone's house, mention is made in the early records of the "great spring" in what is now Spring Lane. The latter was filled up, but people now living have seen it bubbling out of the ground after heavy spring rains. Opinions are divided as to which spring Blackstone had reference, when he invited the thirsty Charlestown company to Shawmut, but the fact of Governor Winthrop having located by the side of the " great spring," and Isaac Johnson in the immediate vicin- ity, are significant. Other springs existed, or were found in course of time on the Neck and elsewhere. The settlement of Boston opens in the reign of Charles the INTRODUCTION. 11 First, and tlie dress, as well as the manners and customs of the people bear the impress of that time, with the distinction, that the religious sentiments of the settlers entered largely into Ijoth questions. The short cloak, doublet, and silk stockings were worn by people of condition, but the colors were subdued and sober, and tlie rapier, which King Charles's gallants were so ready to draw, was not much worn abroad, except on state occasions. Some, like Winthrop, wore the stilf, plaited ruff, containing a furlong of linen, and making the modern beholder sympathize with the pillory the unfor- tunate head is placed in, while others wore the broad falling collar in which we always see the great Protector. High- crowned felt hats were worn out of doors, while the velvet skull-cap was the favor- ite headdress within. Myles Standish, whom we single out as a type of the Puritan soldier of those days, is described by Longfellow as " clad in doublet and hose, with boots of Cor- dovan leather " ; glancing complacently at his arms on the wall, "cutlass and corslet of steel, and his trusty sword of w^^s^^ Damascus," with its curved point and cavalier. Arabic inscription. The manner of wearing the hair became very early an apple of discord. Those of the straitest sect, and it may be of the straightest hair, cut their locks in the short fashion of the roundheads ; while others, to whom nature had, perhaps, been more lavish in this respect, wore their hair long. The wearing of veils by ladies when abroad was the subject of a crusade by Kev. John Cotton, though championed by Endicott. In 1750 cocked-hats, wigs, and red cloaks were usually worn by gentlemen. Except among military men, boots were rarely seen. In winter, round coats were worn, made stiff with buckram, and coming down to the knees in front. Boys wore wigs and cocked-hats until about 1790. Powder was worn by gentlemen until after 1800. 12 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The toilets of ladies were elaborate, especially the hair, which was arranged on crape cushions so as to stand up high. Some- times ladies were dressed the day before a party, and slept in easy-chairs to keep their hair in condition. Hoops were indis- pensable in full dress until after 1790. The usual dinner hour was two o'clock. Drinking punch in the forenoon, in public houses, was the common practice. Wine was little used, con- vivial parties drinking j^unch or toddy. The bearing of the townsj)eople in public was grave and austere. How could it be otherwise under the operation of such ordinances as the following. " No strangers were permitted to live within the town without giving bonds to save the town harmless from all damage and charge for entertaining them." " For galloping through the streets, except upon days of mili- tary exercise or any extraordinary case reijuire," was two shillings fine. Football was prohibited in the streets. '' Xo person shall take any tobacco publicly, under penalty of one shilling." "For entertaining foreigners," or receiving "in- mates, servants, or journeymen coming for help in physic or surgery, without leave of the selectmen," was twenty shillings fine a week. The selectmen had authority, under the colony, to order parents to bind their children as apprentices, or put them out to service, and, if they refused, the town took the children from the charge of the parents. Sobriety Avas strictly inculcated, though the sale of liquors was licensed. It is on record that, September 15, 1641, there was a training of twelve hundred men at Boston for two tlays, but no one drunk, nor an oath sworn. Officers were appointed, with long wands, to correct the inattentive or slumbering at church. To be absent from meeting was criminal, wlnle to speak ill of the minister was to incur severe punishment. An instance is mentioned of a man being fined for kissing his wife in his own grounds ; and do not the following instructions to the watch smack strongly of Dogberry's fiimous charge 1 The number being eight, they are " to walk two by two together ; a youth joined with an older and more sober person." " If after ten o'clock they see lights, to incpure if there be warrant- INTRODUCTION. 13 able cause ; and if thoy hear any noise or disorder, ^yisely to demand the reason ; if they are dancing and singing vainly, to admonish them to cease ; if they do not discontinue, after moderate admonition, then the constable to take their names and acquaint the authorities therewith." " If they find young men and maidens, not of known fidelity, walking after ten o'clock, modestly to demand the cause; and if they appear ill-minded, to watch them narrowly, command them to go to their lodgings, and if they refuse, then to secure them till morning." ]S"egro slavery appears in Boston as early as 1G38, when at least three were held by Maverick on Noddle's Island. In this year the ship Desire brought negroes here from the West Indies. In 1G80, according to Judge Sewall, there were not above two hundred African slaves in the colony. An effort is on record in 1702 to put a stop to negroes being slaves, and to encourage the use of white servants, the representa- tives of the toAvn being instructed to this purpose. Slavery seems, however, to have steadily increased in the colony, the trathc proving profitable, until at length it was as common to see negroes offered for sale in the public prints, as it ever was in the Southern colonies. In 1767 the town again moved, through its representatives for the abolition of slavery, to no effect. A Tory writer asserts that there were at this time two thousand slaves in Boston. During the troubles of 1768 the British officers were charged with inciting the slaves to insurrection, and blacks were held in servitude until after the Ke volution. But this was not all. It is but little known that white slavery was tolerated in the colony, and that the miserable dependents of feudal power were sold into servitude in England and transported to this country. Prisoners of war were thus disposed of under the great Cromwell, some of the captives of Dunbar having been shipped over seas to America. A sliii> load of Scotch prisoners was consigned 1651 to Thomas Kem- ble of Charlestown, the same who was afterwards resident of Boston. They were generally sold for a specific term of ser- 14 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. vice, and nsed chiefly as farm laborers. Many were sent to North Carolina, and indeed but few of the colonies were with- out them. Among the early customs was that of the watchmen crying the time of night and giving an account of the weather as they went their rounds, a practice which prevailed for a hundred years. The British sentinels later gave the cry of " All 's well ! " as they paced their beats. The ringing of the nine-o'clock bell was first ordered in 1649. The watchman's rattle was intro- duced about the time Boston became a city. The government of the town was vested in nine selectmen, and is first found on the records, November, 1643 ; but not until November 29, 1645, is the official statement recorded that John Winthrop and nine others were chosen selectmen. This con- tinued to be the form of government until the city was incor- porated, Feburary 23, 1822. The first city government was organized on the first of May following, and John Phillips was the first, Josiah Quincy the second, and Harrison Gray Otis the third mayor. Steps were taken as early as 1 708 to petition the General Court to have the town incorporated into a city or borough, and again in 1784, but without success. In 1632 the Colonial legislature declared it to be " the fittest place for public meetings of any place in the Bay," since which time it has remained the capital of Massachusetts. Boston at first included within its government the islands of the harbor, — Muddy River (Brookline), Winnisimet (Chelsea), Mount Wol- laston (Braintree), Randolph, and Quincy. She is now striving to recover portions of her ancient territory. For a long time the allotment of lands was the principal business of the town officers. In the limits of the peninsula the rule was, " two acres to plant on, and for every able youth one acre within the neck and Noddle's Island " (East Boston). In 1635 it was agreed, " no new allotments should be granted unto any new-comer, but such as may be likely to be received members of the congregation." The town regulated the price of cattle, commodities, victuals, and the wages of laborers, and none other were to be given or taken. INTRODUCTION. 15 The spirit of intolerance wliich the fathers of Boston exhib- ited towards the Quakers, Anabai:)tists, EpiscopaUans, and otlier sects ilkistrates their view of religious liberty. Well did Dry den say : — *' Of all the tyrannies on human kind, The worst is tliut which persec\;tes the mind ; Let us but weigh at what offence we strike, 'T is but because we cannot tliink alike ; In punishing of this we overthrow The laws of nations, and of nature too." It was an offence to harbor a Quaker ; to attend a Quaker meeting Avas a fine of ten shillings, to preach, £ 5. When the Baptists first attempted to enter their meeting-house in Still- man Street, they found the doors nailed up, and when they proceeded to worship in the open air, they were arrested and imprisoned. No one could be found to sell land for an Episco- pal church, nor could they find a place to hold services in until Andros obtained the Old South for them by force. The crimi- nal law decreed banishment to such as broached or maintained ''damnable heresies," by which was meant such as did not agree with the views of the congregation. The excessive severity of the following deserves notice. " Any one denying the Scripture to be the word of God should pay not exceeding £ 50 to be severely whipped, not exceeding forty strokes, unless he publicly recants, in which case he shall not pay above .£10, or be whipped in case he pay not the fine." The repetition of this offence was to be punished by banish- ment or death, as the court might determine. 'T is death for any child of sound understanding to curse or strike his parents, unless in his own defence." There is a grim humor in the folloAvnng decisions. In 1640 one Edward Palmer, for asking an excessive price for a pair of stocks, which he was hired to frame, had the privilege of sit- ting an hour in them himself. " Captain Stone is sentenced to pay £ 100, and prohibited coming within the patent with- out the governor's leave, upon pain of death, for calling Mr. Ludlow (a magistrate) a " Justass.''^ We infer the punisliment must have been inflicted more for the joke tlian the offence. 16 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. " Catherine, wife of William Cornisli, was found suspicious of in- continency, and seriously admonished to take heed." " Sergeant Perkins ordered to carry forty turfs to the fort for being drunk." According to Neal, the principal festival days were that of the annual election of magistrates at Boston, and Commence- ment at Cambridge. Business was then laid aside, and the people were as cheerful among their friends and neighbors as the English are at Christmas. " They have a greater veneration for the evening of Saturday than for that of the Lord's Day itself ; so that all business is laid aside by sunset or six o'clock on Saturday night. The Sabbath itself is kept with great strictness ; nobody being to be seen in the streets in tune of Di\'ine ser^dce, except the constables, who are appointed to search all public houses ; but in the evening they allow them- selves great liberty and freedom." This custom has prevailed up to a comparatively late period. In those days the pulpit took the lead in matters temporal as well as of theology. Public questions were discussed in the pulpit, and news from a distance, of moment to the col- ony, was disseminated through it ; the first newspaper was not attempted in Boston until 1690, and then only a single number was published. The whole field was open to the preacher, who might either confine himself to doctrinal points or preach a crusade against the savages. The attire of the ladies, the fashion of the hair, the drinking of healths, after- wards abolished by law, were all within the jurisdiction of the teacher of the people ; the constituted authorities might make the laws, but the minister expounded them. The official proclamations were then, as now, affixed to the meeting-house door, which thus stood to the community as a vehicle of public intelligence. Many intelligent travellers, both English and Erench, have recorded their impressions of Boston. Wood, who is accounted the earliest of these writers, says : — " This harbor is made by a great company of islands, whose high cliffs shoulder out the boisterous seas ; 3'et may easily deceive any miskilful pilot, presenting many fair openings and broad sounda INTRODUCTION. 17 which afford too shallow water for ships, thou^'h navigahle for boats and ])iiiriaces. It is a safe and pleasant harbor within, having but one common and safe entrance, and that not very broad, there scarce being room for three ships to come in board and board at a time ; but being once in, there is room for the anchorage of five hundred ships." " Boston is two miles N. E. of Roxbury. His situation is very pleasant, being a peninsula hemmed in on the south side by the bay of Roxbury, and on the north side with Charles River, the marshes on the back side being not half a (j^uarter of a mile over ; so that a little fencing will secure their cattle from the wolves ; it being a neck, and bare of wood, they are not troubled with these great annoyances, wolves, rattlesnakes, and mosquitoes. This neck of land is not above four miles in compass, in form almost square, having on the south side a great broad hill, whereon is planted a fort which can command any ship as she sails into the harbor,'^ On the north side is another hill equal in bigness, whereon stands a wind- mill. t To the northwest is a high mountain, with three little rising hills on the top of it, wherefore it is called the Tramount.J This town, although it be neither the greatest nor the richest, yet is the most noted and frequented, being the centre of the plantations where the monthly courts are kept." John Jossleyn arrived at "Boston July, 1663. He says : — " It is in longitude 315 degrees, and 42 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. The buildings are handsome, joining one to the other as in L(mdon, with many large streets, most of them ]xived with pebble ; in the high street, toward the Common, there are fair buildings, some of stone ; the town is not divided into parishes, yet they have three fair meeting-houses." Edward Johnson says : — " The form of this town is like a heart, naturally situated for forti- fications, having two hills on the frontier part thereof next the sea, the one well fortified on the superficies thereof, with store of great artillery well mounted. The other hath a very strong battery built of whole timber, and filled with earth ; betwixt these two strong arms lies a cove or bay, on which the chief part of this town is built, overtopped with a third hill ; all these, like overtopping towers, keep a constant watch to see the approach of foreign dangers, being furnished with a beacon and loud babbling guns to * Fort Hill, + Copp's Hill. Beacon Hill. 18 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. give notice to all the sister towns. The chief edifice of this city-like town is crowded on the sea-banks, and wharfed out with great labor and cost ; the buildings beautiful and large, some fairly set forth with brick, tile, stone, and slate, and orderly placed with seemly streets, whose continual enlargement presageth some sumptuous city." M. I'Abbe Robin, who accompanied the army of Count Ro- chambeau, published a small work in 1781, in which a good description of Boston is given. Says M. I'Abbe : — " The high, regular buildings, intermingled with steeples, appeared to us more like a long-established town of the Continent than a recent colony. A fine mole, or pier, projects into the harbor about two thousand feet, and shops anel warehouses line its whole length. It communicates at right angles with the principal street of the town, which is long and wide, curving round towards the water ; on this street are many fine houses of two and three stories. The appearance of the buildings seems strange to European eyes ; being built entirely of wood, they have not the dull and heavy appear- ance which belongs to those of our continental cities ; they are regu- lar and well-lighted, with frames well joined, and the outside cov- ered with slight, thinly planed boards, overlapping each other some- what like the tiles upon our roofs. The exterior is j^ainted generally of a grayish color, which gives an agreeable aspect to the view." ]\I. I'Abbe states that codfish was the principal article of commerce with the Bostonians ; that they preferred Maderia, Malaga, or Oporto to French wines, but their ordinary beverage was rum, distilled from molasses. Some credit attaches to this statement, when we remember that Boston had half a dozen still-houses in 1722, and a score when the Abbe was writing. " Piety," continues the acute Frenchman, " is not the only motive which brings a crowd of ladies into their church. They show themselves there clothed in silk, and sometimes decked with superb feathers. Their hair is raised upon sup- ports, in imitation of those worn by the French ladies some years since. They have less grace, less freedom, than the French ladies, but more dignity." "Tlieir slioon of velvet, and their mnilis ! In kirk they are not content of stuilis, The sermon wlien they sit to heir, But carries cuslieons like A'ain fulis ; And all for newfangleness of geir." INTRODUCTION. 19 The Abbe, alluding to the strict observance of the Sabbath, naively says : " A countryman of mine, lodging at the same inn with me, took it into his head one Sunday to play a little upon his tiute ; but the neighborhood became so incensed that our landlord was obliged to acquaint him of their uneasiness." Another French writer remarked of Newport, which he thought Boston resembled, " This is the only place I ever visited where they build old houses." INI. le Compte Segur and the ^lar- quis Chastellux have ^vritten about Boston, but there is little to add to what is already given. The first volume of the Town Records begins SoptomT)er, 1634, and the first entries are said to be in the handwriting of Governor Winthrop. An unknown number of leaves have been torn out or destroyed, and, as the first business of the town was the allotment of land to the inhabitants, the loss is ir- reparable, and has proved such to those who have had occasion to trace the titles of property. The city authorities should see that this volume, the sole repository of many facts in the early history of Boston, should be printed at once, and thus pre- served from destruction. Several later volumes of the records are missing, and for many years, while William Cooper was Town Clerk, no record exists of the births or deaths. A man- uscript volume called the "Book of Possessions," is in the City Clerk's office, compiled, it is thought, as early as 1634, by order of the General Court. There are two hundred and forty- five names in this " Doomsday Book," as it has been termed, but all of them were not original settlers. The general growth and progress of the New England metropolis has been steady and remarkable. The early settlers having built wholly of wood, were not long exempt from de- structive fires. In 1654 occurred what was known as "the great fire," but its locality is not given. This was succeeded by another in 1676, at the Xorth End, which consumed forty- five dwellings, the North Church, and several warehouses, within the space enclosed by Richmond, Hanover, and Clark Streets. After this fire a tire-engine was imj)orted from Eng- land, but another great fire in 1678, near the Town Dock, 20 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. destroyed eighty dwelling-houses and seventy warehouses, en- tailing a loss of £ 200,000. AVith extraordinary energy these losses were repaired, and the townspeople, a(hnonislied by their disasters, built their houses witli more regard to safety, — many building of stone and brick, — while more efficient means were obtained for con- trolling the devouring element. The town was divided into four (quarters, patroled by a watch detailed from the foot-com- panies. Six hand-engines, four barrels of powder, and two crooks were assigned each quarter. This appears to have been the beginning of a fire department. Tlie first fire-engine made in Boston was built by David Wheeler, a blacksmith in Newbury, now Wasliington Street. It was tried at a fire August 21, 1765, and found to perform extremely well. The data from wdiich to estimate the population of tlie town in the first decade of its settlement is very meagre. In 1639 the Bay mustered a thousand soldiers in Boston, but tliey were of course drawn from all the towns. For the first seventy years after its settlement Boston did not probably contain over seven thousand people. In 1717 it was reckoned at only twelve thousand. A hundred years after the settlement it con- tained fifteen thousand, with seventeen hundred dwellings ; in 1752 tliere were seventeen thousand five hundred, — a decrease of five hundred in the previous ten years, accounted for by the wars with the Indians and French, in which Boston sus- tained severe losses. In 1765 the number of people had fallen below sixteen thousand, with sixteen hundred and seventy-six houses. During the siege in 1775-76 the town was nearly depopulated, but few remaining Avho could get away. An enumeration made in July, 1775, before the last permission was given to leave the town, showed only six thou- sand five hundred and seventy-three inhabitants, the troops witli tlieir women and children numbering thirteen thousand six hundred. At the peace of 1783 there were only about twelve thousand inhabitants. By the first census of 1791 the number of people was a little over eighteen thousand, with two thousand three hundred and seventy-six houses. INTRODUCTIOX. 21 From tliis period the increase has been steady and rapid. In 1600 there were twenty-live thousand; \S'20, forty-tliree thousand; 1840, eiglity-iive thousand; 18G0, one hundred and seventy-seven thousand, and in 1870, the latest census, two liundred and fifty thousand. Tlie division of the town into eight wards is mentioned as early as the great lire of 1678 - 79. In 1715 these wards were named North, Fleet, Bridge, Creek, King's, Change, Pond, and South. In 1735 tlie number of wards was increased to twelve, corresponding with the number of companies in the Boston regiment, one of which was attached to each ward for service at tires. Besides tlie military there was also a civil division, an overseer of the poor, a fireward, a constable, and a scavenger, belonging to each ward. In 1792 the number of military wards was nine, the regiment having been reduced to that num- ber of companies ; the civil division continued to be twelve. The first four of these wards, and the greater part of the fifth, were in the Xorth End ; tlie seventh was at the West End ; while tlie rest, with a part of the fifth, were in the South End, as it was then bounded. The present number is sixteen, just double the original nimiber. The paving of the public thoroughfares seems to haA^e begun at a very early period. Jossleyn, describing Boston in 16G3, says most of the streets " are paved with pebble," meaning the smooth round stones from the beach. It was not the practice at first to pave the whole Avddth of a street, but only a strip in the middle ; the Neck Avas so paved. In the same manner the sidewalks were paved with cobble-stones, bricks, or flags, of only Avidth enough for a single passenger; in some instances, where flag-stones were used, the remaining space Avas tilled with cobble-stones. It is probable that the first paving Avas done in a fragmentary Avay l)efore 1700, but in 1703-04 the toAvn A^oted £100 for this purpose, "as the selectmen shall judge most needful, having particular regard to the highw^ay nigh old Mrs. Stoddard's house." An order for paving 42 rods of Orange Slreet Av^as made in 1715. From this time sums Avere regu- larly A^oted,and the foundation laid for the most cleanly city in America. 22 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. As to sidewalks, a lady who came to Boston in 1795 from New York, and was much struck with the quaint appearance of the to^YJ^, writes : — " There were no brick sidewalks, except in a part of the Main Street (Washington) near the Old South, then called Comhill. The streets were paved with^ pebbles ; and, except when driven on one side by carts and carriages, every one walked in the middle of the street, where the pavement was the smoothest," ^ It is not believed that there was a sidewalk in Boston until after the Eevolution. At tliis time State Street was without any, the pavement reaching across the street from house to house. It is probable that those inhabitants whose business or pleasure took them from home after dark must for a long time have lighted their own way through the devious lanes and by- ways of the town. We can imagine the feelings of a pair of fond lovers who, taking an evening stroll, are bid by the cap- tain of the watch to " Stand ! " while he throws the rays of a dark lantern upon the faces of the shrinking swain and his mis- tress. Yet, although street-lamps were said to have been used as early as 1774, until 1792 there seems to have been no action on the town's part towards lighting the streets, when we read that the "gentlemen selectmen propose to light the town," early in January of that year, " and to continue the same until the sum subscribed is expended." Those gentlemen that pro- posed to furnish lamps were requested to have them " fixed " by a certain day, so that the lamplighter may have time to prepare them for lighting. To the public spirit of the citizens, then, is due the first shedding of light upon the gloomy ways of the town. Gas was not used to illuminate the streets until 1834, though the works at Copp's Hill were erected in 1828. In December of that year gas was first used in the city. The springs which supplied the older inhabitants gave place to wells, and these in their turn gave way to the de- mand for an abundant supply of j^ure water for the whole town. * Quincy Memoir. INTRODUCTION. 23 "Wells liatl to be sunk a depth varying from fifteen feet on the low ground to one hundred and twenty feet on the elevated portions, and the water was usually brackish and more or less impregnated with salt. Water was therefore introduced from Jamaica Pond, in West Eoxbury, by a company incorporated in 1795. The pipes used were logs, of which about forty miles were laid. The trenches were only three to tliree and a half feet in depth, which did not prevent freezing in severe weather, wliile the smallness of the pipe, — four-inch mains, — rendered the supply limited. Under the administration of Mayor Quincy the subject of a new supply of water was agitated. In 1825 a great fire occurred in Xilby Street, destroying fifty stores, and the want of water as a means for the subduing of fires became evident. Twenty years were spent in controversy before action was taken, but in August, 184G, ground was broken at Lake Cochit- uate by John Quincy Adams and Josiah Quincy, Jr. In Octo- ber, 1848, the work was completed, but the growth of Boston has rendered this source insufficient in less than twenty years, and the w^aters of Sudbury Eiver are to be made tributary. Boston has enlarged her territory by the annexation of Dor- chester Xeck (South Boston), in 1804 ; Washington YiUage" in 1855 ; Eoxbury, in 1868 ; and Dorchester, in 1870. East Bos- ton (Xoddle's Island), though forming a part of Boston since 1637, had neither streets nor local regulations until the incor- poration of the East Boston Company ; public officers first set foot upon the island in 1833. There was then but one house in the whole of that now populous ward, comprising six hun- dred and sixty acres. South Boston, when annexed, had only ten families on an area of five hundred and seventy acres, and but nineteen voters. There being at this time no bridge, the inhabitants were obliged to come to Boston via the Xeck. The building of a bridge was the condition of annexation. South Boston was taken from the territory of Dorchester, lioxbury, itself a city, brought a large accession to Boston, to which it had long been joined in fact. Dorchester, settled a few months earlier than Boston, has become a ward of the 24 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. metropolis. These two towns brought an increase to the popu- lation of about forty thousand, and a territory of nearly seven thousand acres. Communication between Boston and the surrounding towns was at first wholly by the Neck. The people of Chelsea thus had a circuit of at least a dozen miles, and a day's journey before them, to go to town and return. There was a ferry es- tablished at Charlestown and Winnisimmet (Chelsea) as early as 1635, - — five years after the settlement of Boston. We find by the records that Thomas INIarshall " was chosen by generall consent for y^ keeping of a Ferry from y^ INIylne Point vnto Charlestown and Wynneseemitt, for a single p'son sixpence, and for two, sixpence ; and for every one above y^ number of two, two pence apiece." Ships' boats were first used, then scows, and this continued to be the only means of transit until 1786. Four years previous to this the Marquis Chastellux states that he was one hour making the voyage from Winnisimmet in a scow filled with cattle, sheep, etc. Seven tacks were required to bring them safely to land. A bridge to Cambridge was agitated as long ago as 1739. The obstruction to the passage of ferry-l)oats by ice was a serious inconvenience. Charles River Bridge, from the Old Ferry landing to Charlestown, was the first constructed. The first pier was laid on the 14th June, 1785, and the bridge thrown open for travel in little more than a year. This was considered at the time the greatest enterprise ever undertaken in America, and its successful completion was celebrated by a public procession, consisting of both branches of the Legislature, the proprietors and artisans of the bridge, military and civic so- cieties. Salutes were fired from the Castle, Copp's and Breed's Hill. This was only eleven years after the battle of Bunker Hill. Thomas Russell was first president of the corporation. West Boston Bridge, to Cambridge, was opened in November, 1793. Dover Street, or Boston South Bridge, was next opened in the summer of 1805. Cragie's, or, as it used to be called. Canal Bridge, from the Middlesex Canal, was next completed in August, 1809, from what was then known as Barton's Point, IXTKODUCTION. on the Boston side, to Leclimere's Point in Caml)ri(lge. By a bridge thrown across from Lechmere's Point to Charlestown, the lung detour around Charlestown Neck was avoided. The Western Avenue, or Mill Dam, as it was long called, was opened with great ceremony July, 1821. The South Boston Bridge, from what was respectively Windmill and Wheeler's Point, at the foot of Federal Street, to South Boston, was com- l)leted in 1828, and shortened the journey into Boston, by way of the Xeck, about a mile. Warren Bridge met with great opposition from the proprietors of Charles liiver Bridge, but was opened as a public highway December, 1828. This completes the list of the older avenues of tra- vel to the mainland ; but we have now a magnificent iron structure to South Boston, recently erected, wliile the numerous railway bridges spanning the river enable the city to stretch its Briareus-like arms in every direction for traffic. Coaches are hrst mentioned as being in use in Boston in 1668-69. Captain Anthony Howard appears to have owned one in 1687, for he was fined twenty shillings that year " for setting a coach-house two feet into y« streete at y« X. End of y« Towne." * In 1798 there were 98 chaises and 47 coaches, chariots, phaetons, &c. in all Boston. In October, 1631, Governor Wintlu-op went on foot to Lynn and Salem, and until there were roads it is obvious there was little use for wheeled vehicles, even for such as coidd afford them. In 1750 there were only a few carriages, and these, chariots and coaches. Four-wheeled chaises were in use in families of distinction. The first public coacli or hack used in Boston was set up in 1712 by Jonathan Wardell, at the sign of the Orange Tree, head of Hanover Street. One 4^ WINTHROP FORDING THE RIVER. * Town Records. 26 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. was also set up by Adino Paddock, in 1762, who called it the "Burling Coach," from its London prototype. Paddock was a coachmaker by trade ; we shall have occasion to notice him in these pages. The next public vehicle was a small post- chaise, drawn by a pair of gray horses, and stood at the head of State Street, about 1790. Gentlemen and ladies who at- tended balls and parties in those times had to walk, unless they coidd get a cast in a friend's carriage. Coaches for public conveyance were first established in 1763, when one was put on the route between Boston and Ports- mouth, N. H. Bartholemew Stavers was the "undertaker," and Ms head-quarters were at the sign of the Lighthouse, at the North End. The " Portsmouth Flying Stage Coach," as he styled liis carriage, carried six inside passengers, each paying thirteen shillings and sixpence sterling, to Portsmouth. The stage and horses were kept at Charlestown, to save the troitlDle of ferriage, and set out every Friday morning, putting up at the inns along the road. Eeturning, the stage left Portsmouth every Tuesday morning. Stavers gave notice "that as this was a convenient and genteel way of travelling, and greatly cheaper than hiring carriages or horses, he hoped ladies and gentlemen would encourage the same." '^ A stage was put on the route to ^Larblehead in 1769, by Edward Wade. His car- riage was a post-chaise, suited for ladies and gentlemen, and he himself might be " spoken with at the widow Trefry's in Fish (Xorth) Street." Railways were early under discussion by the people of Boston, but no decisive steps were taken until 1825. The first road chartered in the State was the Experiment Railroad at Quincy. Next came the Lowell, incorporated in 1830, fol- lowed by the Worcester, Providence, and others. The Lowell was the first opened for public travel, in June, 1835, closely followed by the Worcester in July of the same year ; the Prov- idence was also opened in 1835, with a single track. The INTaine was opened from Wilmington to Andover in 1836 ; to South Berwick, 1843. Tlie Eastern comes next, in 1838, in * Drake, p. 664. INTRODUCTION. 27 which year it was opened to Salem. George Peabody was the first president. The Old Colony began operating in November, 1845, the Fitchburg in 1845, and the Hartford and Erie in 1849, under the name of the Norfolk County Eoad. It is a curious fact, that every one of the eight railway stations in Boston stands on ground reclaimed from the sea. We have taken the reader tlirough the settlement, physical features, and successive phases of the growth of the Old Town, and now that we are about to commence our rambles together, we warn him to be prepared for changes that will make it diffi- cult and often impossible to fix localities accurately. For fifty years our men of progress have been pidling down the old and building up the new city. Few of its original features are left except, in the North End. CHAPTER I. king's chapel and the neighborhood. Historj' of the Chapel. — Establishment of the Church of England. — Chapel Burial-Ground. — Boston Athen^um. — Academy of Arts and Sciences. — Historical Society. — The Museum. — The Old Corner. — Royal Custom House. — Washington. — H. G. Otis. — Daniel Webster. — Tremont Street. — Howard Street. — Pemberton Hill. — Endicott. — Captain Southack. — Theodore Lyman, Senior. — John Cotton, — Sir Henry Vane. — Samuel Sewall. — Gardiner Greene. — Earl Percy. — Bellingham. — Faneuil. — Phillips. — Davenport. — Oxenbridge. — Beacon Street. — School Street. — Latin School. —Franklin Statue. —City Hall. —Otis. —Warren, — Mas- carene. — Cromwell's Head. — The Old Corner Bookstore. — Anne Hutchin- son. — The French Church. — Catholic Church. — Second Universalist, — Province Street. — Chapman Place, — James LovelL — Wendell. WE choose King's Chapel for our point of departure, as well from its central position as from the fact that its vicinage is probably the oldest ground built upon in Bos- ton, Blackstone's lot alone excej)ted. The exterior of King's Chapel does not present any remarkable architectural features. It has an air of solidity and massiveness that seems to bespeak the inten- tion of its builders tliat it should remain where it was placed. This purpose is likely to be set at naught by tlie proposed re- moval of tlie Chapel northward- ly, to widen School Street. So improbable an idea never entered the heads of the founders ; but GOVERNOR SHIRLEY. ^vc luakc uothiug uowachiys of taking up blocks of brick or stone bodily, and moving them whither we list. KINGS CHAPEL AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 29 King's Chapel is the fifth in the order of Boston churches. The architect was Peter Harrison, of Newport, R. I., and the j)lan embraced a steeple, which Mr. Harrison thought essential to his general design, and would have a " beautiful ellect." For want king's chapel as it appears in 1S72. of funds, however, the steeple was never built. Governor Shirley laid the corner-stone on the 11th of August, 1749, and after giving the workmen £ 20 (old tenor) to drink his health, went into the old church, which was still standing, wliere a service appropriate to the occasion was held by lie v. Mr. Caner, the rector. Mr. Harrison had been requested to present drawings with both a double and single tier of windows. Two rows were adopted, the lower ones giving that prince of punsters, ^latlier Byles, an opportunity of saying that he had heard of the canons of the church, but had never seen the port-holes before. The stone for the chapel came from Braintree, and was taken 30 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. from the surface of the ground, no quarries being then opened. The rough appearance of the stone is due to the limited knowl- edge of the art of dressing it which then prevailed. Greenwood's little work on King's Chapel gives the follow- ing fticts. It was first erected of wood in the year 1688, en- larged in 1710, and, being found in the year 1741 in a state of considerable decay, it was proposed to rebuild it of stone. A subscription for this purpose was set on foot, and Peter Faneuil (of Faneuil Hall memory) was chosen treasurer of the building- fund. The building was to be of stone, and was to cost £ 25,000 (old tenor). It was not to be commenced until £ 10,000 were subscribed. Among the first subscribers were Governor William Shirley, Sir Charles Henry Frankland, and Peter Faneuil. The Gov- ernor gave £100; Sir H. Frankland, £50; Faneuil, £200 sterhng. Faneuil died in 1742, and the matter was for some time laid aside, but was revived by Mr. Caner in 1747. A new subscription was drawn up. Governor Shirley increased his gift to £200, and Sir H. Frankland to £150 sterling. For the subscription of Peter Faneuil the society was obliged to sue his brother Benjamin, who Avas also his executor, and recovered it after a vexatious suit at law. Tlie new chapel was built so as to enclose the old church, in wliich services continued to be held, in spite of its ruinous con- dition, until March, 1753, when the society was obliged to remove to Trinity. The congregation having applied for the use of the Old South on Christmas day, a verbal answer was returned granting the request on condition "that the house should not be decorated with spruce," etc. Efforts to obtain money to complete the chapel were made in every direction. Among others. Captain Tliomas Coram, founder of the Foundling Hospital in London, who had re- sided in this country, was applied to by a gentleman tlien in London ; but no sooner had he mentioned the object of his visit than he was obliged to listen to a burst of passionate reproaches for some alleged slight the vestry of King's Chapel had formerly put upon liim. The old gentleman finally told his visitor, with king's chapel and the neighborhood. 31 an oatli, " that if the twelve Apostles were to apply to him in behalf of the church, he Avould persist in refusing to do it." The portico was not conijjleted until 1789. In that year General Washington was in Boston, and attended an oratorio in the chapel, which had for its object the completion of the portico. The general was dressed in a black velvet suit, arid gave five guineas towards this purpose. The old building, which gave place to the present one, had an a})ology for a tower, on the top of which was a crown, and above this a cock for a vane. A gallery was added after the enlargement in 1710, and the pulpit was on the north side. Opposite old king's chapel. was a pew for the governors, and near it another for officers of the British army and navy. In the west gallery was the first organ ever used in Boston, given to the society by Thomas Brattle. A bell was purchased in 1689, and a clock was do- nated in 1714 by the gentlemen of the British Society. The walls and pillars were hung with the escutcheons of the King, Sir Edmund Andros, Governors Dudley, Shute, Burnet, Bel- cher, and Shirley, and formed a most striking contrast wnth the bare widls of the Puritan churches of the town. In the pulpit, according to the custom of the times, was an hour-glass to mark the length of the sermons, while the east end was adorned with an altar-i)iece, the Ten Commandments, Lord's Prayer, etc. The emblems of heraldry have disappeared. It was the usage of the church to place the royal governors at the head of the vestry. As you enter the chapel, at your left hand is the monument of William Yassall, erected by Florentine Yassall, of Jamaica, in 17GG. To the right is a beautiful monumental tabUit dedicated to the memory of the young men of the chapel who fell in the late civil war. 32 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. On the south side are mural tablets to William Sullivan, John Lowell, Thomas Newton, — an original founder, — and Frances Shirley, wife of the Governor. Within the chancel are busts of Greenwood and Freeman, rectors, and of their successor Dr. Peabody. The burial-ground side contains tablets to Charles Apthorp and Samuel Apj^leton. Over the vestry are the names of Charles Pelham Curtis, long the treasurer, and of William Price, a patron of the church. These are about the only monu- mental marbles to be seen in our city churches, though others have mural tablets. The Vassal monument, a beautiful specimen of the art in the last century, is by Tyler, a London sculptor. These add interest to the church, and reflect in a modest way the glories of old St. Paul's and of Westminster Abbey. The first bell was cracked, while tolling for evening service. May 8, 1814. The wits seized upon the accident with avidity, and commemorated it in the following effusion (Paul Pevere re- cast the bell, and some churchman answered the innuendo) : — " The Chapel church, " The church still lives, Left in the lurch, The priest survives, Must surely fall ; With mind the same. For cliurch and people Revere refounds, And bell and steeple The bell resounds, Are crazy all. And all is well again, " The present organ of King's Chapel was procured from Eng- land in 175G, and paid for by private subscription. It cost £ 500 sterling, and was said to have been selected by the im- mortal Handel himself, though the great maestro was then blind. Over this organ a crown and a couple of gilt mitres are placed which have a history of their own. In the year 1775, when P>oston was in a state of siege, the British military and naval officers worshipped in King's Chapel, as they had in fact done during the previous years the town was in occupation of the British soldiers. The burial of three soldiers of the Sixty-fifth Kegiment are the last-recorded inter- ments in the Chapel cemetery previous to the evacuation of the town in March. The rector. Dr. Caner, went to Halifax with the king's troops, taking M^ith him the church registers, plate, and vestments. The service, which had in part been presented king's chapel and the neighborhood. 33 by the King, amounted to two thousand eight liundred ounces of silver. It was never recovered. When the society of King's Chapel were ready to rebuild, in 1748, they desired an enlargement of the ground for their site a few feet northwardly, also a piece of ground at the east sidQ, on part of which then stood the Latin School. After a good deal of negotiation between the town and the church committee, the church erected a new school-house on the opposite side of the street on land belonging to Colonel Saltonstall, where the Latin School remained up to a comparatively recent time. The removal of the old school-house was viewed with no flivorable eye by the townspeople, and Joseph Green, a Harvard graduate of 1726, and a noted Avit, expressed the popular feeling thus: — " A fig for your learning ! I tell you the to^Nii, To make the church larger, must pull the school do\vn. * Unhappily spoken ! ' exclaims Master Birch ; * Then learning, it seems, stops the growth of the church.' " After the departure of the royal troops, the popular furor against everything savoring of their late allegiance to the throne found expression in the removal of the royal emblems from public buildings, changing the names of streets and every- thing that bore any allusion to the obnoxious idea of kingly authority. King's Chapel was therefore newly baptized Stone Cliapel, a name that has in turn been discarded for the old, liigh-sounding title of yore. In the reign of Queen Anne the church was called " Queens Chappell." The establishment of the Church of England in Boston was attended witli great 02:>position. The Puritans, who had fled from the persecutions of that church in the old country, had no idea of admitting it among them in the new. In 1646 a petition praying for the privilege of Episcopal worship, addressed to the General Court at Boston, caused the petitioners to be fined for seditious expressions, and the seizure of their papers. Charles 11. , after his accession, ^v^ote to the colony requiring, among other things, that the laws should be " reviewed " so as to permit the Episcopal form of worship, the use of the Book of Common Prayer, etc. The chief people and elders of the 2* c 34 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. colony looked upon the efforts of the profligate Charles II. in behalf of religious liberty as they would upon the quoting of Scripture by his Satanic Majesty, and paid little heed to the mandate of the merry monarch of whom his favorite Eochester wrote, — ** Here lies our sovereign Lord the King, Whose word no man relied on ; Who never said a foolish thing, And never did a wise one." The King, when over his bottle, commanded Eochester to write him a suitable epitaph, "something api:)ropriate and witty." The Earl, seizing his pen, wrote as above, and for liis keen effusion remained some time in disgrace. In 1686, in the reign of James II., the first Episcopal services were held in the Old Town House, which then stood on the site of the Old State House. Eev. Eobert Eatclift' was the first Episcopal clergyman, and came over in the Eose frigate in May, 1686. The town, however, continued to refuse the use of any of the meeting-houses, and the society were unable to buy land on Cotton (now Eemberton) Hill to build on. Edward Eandolph — the first officer of customs that Boston had, a man specially hated for his successful efforts to have the king revoke the colonial charter — may be considered as chiefly instrumental in setting up the Episcopalians in Boston. Eandolph was also at this time one of his Majesty's council for Xew England. Sir Edmund Andros, who arrived in Boston in December, 1686, after having several conferences with the ministers on the subject of using one of the meeting-houses for Episcopal services, sent Eandolph, on Wednesday, the 22d of March, 1687, to demand the keys of the South Meeting-houSe, now Old South. On Good Friday, which was the following Friday, the sexton opened the doors by command of Andros " to open and ring the bell for those of the Church of England." But time, which makes all tilings even, gave the Old South Society a signal revenge for what they considered little less than sacrilege. King's Chapel, abandoned by its rector and con- gregation when the town was evacuated, remained closed until the autumn of 1777, when it was occupied by the Old South KINGS CHAPEL AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. do Society, whose house had been converted into a British riding- school. Tliis society used the Chapel about five years. King's Chapel stands as a monument to mark the resting- place of Isaac Johnson, the second white inhabitant of Boston. The locality of the grave is unknown, and is likely to remain so, omng to the many changes, both past and prospective, in the old burial-ground. Johnson, under whose direction the settlement of Boston mainly proceeded in its incipient steps, selected for himself the square enclosed by Tremont, Court, "Washington, and School Streets. So says tradition on the authority of Chief Justice Sewall. Johnson died in September, 1630, and was buried at his own request at the southwest end of his lot. This solitary grave was the nucleus around which gathered the remains of the first settlers, and constituted the first place of sepulture in the town. The old church of 1688 was erected on the burying-ground, it is conjectured by authority of Andros ; the town would not have permitted the use of the public burying-ground for this purpose. Johnson's history has a touch of romance. He married Lady Arabella, daughter of the Earl of Lincoln. She left her native land and a life of ease to follow her husband to the aWIcIs of America. She died very soon after her arrival, in Salem, and was probably buried there ; but the location of her grave, like that of her husband, who so soon followed her, is unknown. Johnson's death was said to have been hastened by the loss of his amiable and beautiful wife. It was to the memory of the Lady Arabella that ]\Irs. Sigourney "wrote, — " Yet still she hath a monument To strike the pensive eye, Tlie tender memories of tlie land Wherein her ashes lie." It is a popular belief that the Chapel Burying-Ground, or " Old Burying-Place," as it was first called, contains the mortal remains only of such as were of the Episcopal fiiith ; but this is very far from being the case. The dust of Governor AVin- throp, of John Cotton, Davenport, Oxenbridge, and Bridge, pastors of the First Church, and of other Puritans of the stern- 36 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. -eJ^^K^^ SHIRLEY ARMS. est type, lie under the shadow of a detested Episcopal edifice. Besides these, the remains of Governor Shirley and of Lady Andros repose here. Here may be seen on the tombstones the arms and escutcheons of the deceased, carry- ing us back to the days of heraldry. Under the Chapel are vaidts for the reception of the dead. As we look through the iron gate into the enclosure, the curious ar- rangement of the gravestones strikes us. In the centre the headstones form a sort of hollow square, as if to repel further aggression upon the territory of the dead, while at the sides and walls the same plan is observed. This peculiar arrangement was the chef dtoeuvre of a former Superintendent of Burials ; many stones were removed from their original posi- tions, and now give effect to the proverb, " to lie like a tomb- stone." What would the future or even present seeker after the grave of an ancestor do in such a case of perplexity? Doubtful, in a certain sense, of the legend " Here lies," he would restrain his emotion, fearing that the tear of affection might fall on the ashes of a stranger. King's Chapel Burying-Ground is by no means exempt from the ghostly legends that usually attach to cemeteries. One is recorded of a negro-woman, whose coffin the careless carpenter having made too short, severed the head from the body, and, clapping it between the feet, nailed down the lid to conceal his blunder. Another is related of a person who was asserted to have been buried alive. A hue-and-cry was raised, the corpse was exhumed in the presence of a mob which had gathered, and it needed the assurance of the doctors who examined the remains to set the affair at rest. The mob, disappointed of its expected sensation, proposed to bury the old woman who had raised the uproar, but did not execute the threat.* Interments ceased here in 1796. * Dealings with the Dead. king's chapel and the neighboiuiood. 37 Xext uortliei'ly from the "buiying-ground once stood an old wooden building covered Avith rough cast. It was the residence of some of the rectors of King's Chapel, and of Dr. Caner, the last one. This building was occupied by the Boston Athenaeum in 1810, and was taken down about forty years ago, to give place to the stone building occui)ied later as a Savings Bank and by the Historical Society. The Athenaeum, now so conspicuous among literary institutions, owes its origin to the Anthology Club, an association of gentlemen for literary purposes. They conducted a periodical called the Montldy Anthology, and in it published proposals in 1806 for subscriptions for a public reading-room. Success following this effort, it was determined to add a library, and trustees were appointed for the manage- ment. The rooms were first opened in Joy's Buildings, on the west corner of Congress and AVater Streets ; then in Scollay's Building in Tremont Street ; and later, in the location first mentioned. The Boston Athenaeum became incorporated in February, 1807, and occupied three rooms in the old rough-cast building. The first was the news or reading room ; the second, the library of the Athenaeum and American Academy ; the third, the pri- vate library of John Quincy Adams, now in a building erected for it in the garden of the old mansion at Quincy. ^Ir. Shaw, in his history published in 1817, gives the follow- ing particulars with regard to the library at that time : " The library of the Athenaeum contains upwards of ten thousand volumes. The collection in history and biography is very complete, and in American History unrivall*! ; \mder this head may be noticed three thousand ])amphlets. Twenty-one foreign and about twelve American periodicals are received." In 1822 the Athenieum was removed to Pearl Street, near the corner of High, to a building partly purchased and partly pre- sented by James Perkins. At this time the library possessed seventeen thousand five hundred volumes and ten thousand tracts. It now contains ninety-seven tliousand six hundred volumes. The Athenjeum was removed in 18-40 to Beacon Street, 38 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. where its spacious halls, devoted to sculpture and painting, attract the lovers of art, no less than its unrivalled library and extensive reading-rooms draw to its shrine the student in every department of literature. Pope tells us, — " A little learning is a dangerous thing ; Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring." Here we may drink to intoxication, and avoid the danger he points out. This institution has received munihcent contri- butions ; among others may be named twenty-hve thousand dollars nobly donated at once by John Bromiield. Thomas H. Perkins was a generous benefactor, and many other eminent Bostonians have aided it liandsomely. The corner-stone of the elegant freestone building on Beacon Street was laid in April, 1847. The design was by Edward C. Cabot, but some interior alterations were made under the direction of Billings. The site was the estate of Edward B. Phillips, but the jDroprietors had purchased the ground on whicli the Museum stands in Tremont Street, with the intention of building there. This ground was sold. The original members of the Anthology Club, founders of the Athe- naeum, were John Sylvester John Gardner, William Emerson, Arthur ]\I. Walter, William S. Shaw, Samuel C. Thacher, Joseph S. Buckminster, Joseph Tuckerman, AVilliam Tudor, eJr., Peter 0. Thacher, Thomas Gray, William Wells, Edmund T. Dana, John C. Warren, and James Jackson. The Athenaeum contains, among other Avorks of art, marble busts of Dr. Kirkland, by Greenough; of Chief Justice IMar- shall, by Erazee ; of AY. H. Prescott, by Greenough ; Crawford's marble statues of Hebe and Ganymede, and of Orpheus ; a bust of Loammi Baldwin, by Powers ; and Greenough's Shep- herd Boy in bronze. In the superb collection of paintings are Allston's portrait of West, and his Isaac of York ; portraits by Eembrandt and Vandyke; a cattle piece by Cuyp; a Holy Family by Murillo, and landscapes by Yanderwert. The origi- nal portraits of Wasliington and Avife, by Stuart, were pur- chased for fifteen hundred dollars in 1831. Besides these are several unfinished works of Allston. KINGS CHAPEL aND THE NEIGHBUIHIOOD. 6V The Academy of Arts and Scieuces is the oldest institution with literary objects in Boston, and the second in America. ]t was instituted in 1779, and received a charter the next year, in which the design of the Academy is stated to be, '' the pro- motion of the knowledge of the antiquities of America and of the natural history of the country." The number of members is limited to two hundred. Governor Bowdoin was the first president, followed by John Adams, Edward A. Holyoke, J. Q. Adams, Nathaniel Bowditch, John Pickering, and other distinguished persons. Count Bum- ford left a legacy within the control of the Academy to ad- vance the cause of science. The society occu2)ies a room in the Athenanim. The Historical Society originated as early as 1791. On the 24th of January, Hon, Judge Tudor, Bev. Drs. Belknap, Thacher, and Eliot, Judge AYinthrop of Cambridge, Bev. Dr. Freeman, Judge Minot, Hon. W. Baylies of Dighton, Judge Sullivan, afterwards governor of Massachusetts, and Thomas AVallcutt, met and organized. The meetings were first held in Judge ]\linot's office in Spring Lane, but the use of a corner room in the attic of Faneuil Hall was soon obtained, *' a place as retired and recondite as explorers into the recesses of antiij- uity would think of visiting." In 1791 the society occujued the ^lanufactory House in Hamilton Place. In 1793 the society was offered a room in the Tontine Crescent, on the south side of Franklin Street, over the arch, tlie entrance into Arch Street. Charles Ihdhnch, William Scollay, and Charles Vaughan, who reclaimed Franklin Street from a quagmire, made this ofi'er, and here the society remained until 1833, when it removed to its late (piarters in Tremont Stret't, from whicli it is now tt^nporarily ousted by the repairs of tlu; building. The situation in Franklin Street presented the singular phase of a building without land, as it rested upon an arched passage- way. Governor Gore was president in 180G. In 1838 tlie society's collections amounted to six thousand volumes and manuscripts. The society possesses many relics of historic interest. It has 40 LANDMARKS OF BOSTOX. portraits of Governors Endicott, Winslow, Pownall, Dummer, Belcher, AVinthrop, Hutchiusou, Strong, Gore, etc. That of Winslow is supposed to be a Vandyke. The swords of Gover- nor Carver, ^lyles Standish, Colonel Church, Governor Brooks, Sir Wilhani Pepperell, and those of Captain Linzee and Colo- nel Prescott, worn at Bunker's Hill, are the property of the society. Not the least curious among these relics is a silk* flag presented by Governor Hancock to a colored company called the " Bucks of America," bearing the device of a pine-tree and a buck, above which are the initials " J. H." and " G. W." There is also a gun used at the capture of Governor Andros by the Bostonians in 1689 ; the samp-bowl of King Philip, and the lock of the gun with which lie was killed. The library of the society has a value not to be estimated in dollars and cents. It was the foundation of materials for the history of New England, many of which have been published in the society's valuable collections. Among other valuable donations to the society may be men- tioned the papers and documents of General William Heath of Revolutionary fame, besides the magnificent library of Thomas Dowse of Cambridge, containing about five thousand volumes, many being of the greatest historical interest. The Museum building, which covers twenty thousand feet of land, and cost a quarter of a million, is one of the attractive objects of the street and of the city. For many years its rows of exterior lights have been a lamp in the path of the pedes- trian and a lure to its votaries. On its boards have stood in times past the elder Booth and Mrs. George Barrett. Booth, of whom a capital likeness in crayon, by Rowse, hangs in the main hall, deserves to be classed with Kean, Kemble, and the giants of tlie stage. His unfortunate penchant for convivial in- dulgence has given rise to many anecdotes. On one occasion, while playing at the Howard, Tom Ford, the manager, stipu- lated that Booth should sul)mit to be locked in liis room by a certain hour, in order that the actop might not be in a condition to disappoint the audience, as was sometimes the case. The chagrin of the manager may be imagined at finding the tragedian king's chapel and the neighbokhood. 41 intoxicated when lie came to fetch him to the theatre. Booth had bribed a waiter to bring Hquor to liis door, where succes- sive glasses were emptied by means of a straw througli the key- hole. As Iiichard III. Booth Avas incomparable. He often became greatly excited in the combat scene, and on one occa- sion it is stated that he attacked W. H. Smitli, the veteran actor, lately deceased, in dead earnest, driving him from the stage, and pursuing him into the street. AVilliam Warren, the first comedian of the American stage, made his first appearance at the Museum in 1847, and after twenty-tive years of service is still without a peer in his pecu- liar parts. Adelaide Phillips, whose triumphs on the lyric stage are well known, was a danseuse at the Museum in the year just mentioned. By the generosity of Jenny Lind and other friends she was enabled to obtain a musical education in Europe. The present Museum is near the site of the old Columbian Museum, which passed through many mutations, and was finally destroyed by fire in January, 1807. The Columbian Museum originated in the exhibition of wax-works at the American Coffee House in State Street, opposite Kilby, as early as 1791. Mr. Bowen, the proprietor, removed to what was called " the head of the Mall," at the corner of Bromfield's Lane (now Street) in 1795. This building was burnt in Janu- ary, 1803 ; but ]\Ir. Bowen was enabled to reopen his Museum in Milk Street, at the corner of Oliver, in May of that year. In 1806, a brick building five stories high w^as erected by Doyle about where the present Probate Office is, and reached by a pas- sage Irom Tremont Street. It was opened Thanksgiving evening. The destructive element soon swept away this edifice. It took fire about midnight, and was consumed with all its con- tents ; not an article was saved. The event was signalized by a painful disaster. A large crowd of spectators had collected in the burying-ground adjoining, when the walls fell, killing nine or ten boys, from twelve to fifteen years old. Dr. "WilHam Eustis, afterwards govej-nor of ^Massachusetts, resided then in Sudbury Street, and with otlier j)hysirians lent his aid on the 42 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. occasion. The undismayed proprietors had a new two-story building erected by June, 1807, which continued until 1825, when the collection was sold to the New England Museum. The New England Museum — formed from the New York Museum, which was opened in 1812, in Boylston HaU ; from Mix's New Haven Museum, added in 1821 ; and from the Columbian — was opened by Mr. E. A. Greenwood, July 4, 1818. It was situated on Court Street, and extended from Cornhill to Brattle Street, occupying the upper stories. In 1839 Moses Kimball became the proprietor, and these several establishments, merged in the New England, constituted the present Museum, first located on the present site of Horticul- tural HaU in 1841, and in 1846 where it now stands. At the corner of Court and Tremont Streets was the resi- dence of John Wendell, an old Boston merchant of the time of Governor Shirley. He married a daughter of Judge Edmund Quincy, and was the nephew of Hon. Jacob Wendell, a leading Bostonian in the troublous Eevolutionary times. The Eoyal Custom House was located in AYendell's house in 1759, at which time George Cradock, Esq., a near neighbor of Wendell's, was collector. The old building now standing here, then of only three sto- ries, is the one in which Washington lodged during his visit ^ €fc^^^fc^^._^- in 1789, as you may read ^^^ryi,:^-.--^.^..-- ^:^. :.^ ^j^ ^^^^ small tablet placed in the Court Street front. At the time Washington occupied it, it Avas kept by Joseph Ingersoll as a board- ing-house. The coming of Washington to the town he had delivered in 177G was marred by an act of official punctilio on the part of Gov- ernor Hancock, Avhich caused the greatest mortification alike to the people and the illustrious visitor. king's chapel and the neighborhood. 43 On tlic ^^lTi^'al of the general on the Neck, he was met by tlie suite of tlie governor, but not by the governor, whose views of State sovereignty would not admit of his acknowledging a superior personage witliin his olHcial jurisdiction. The day was cold and raw, and Washington, chagrined at the absence of the governor, Avas about to turn his horse's head to depart, when he was prevailed upon by the authorities of the town to enter it. A long delay had occurred at the Xeck, and many people caught what was called the "Washington cold." The general wore his old continental uniform, and rode on horseback with his head uncovered, but did not salute the throngs that lined his way. On arriving at the Old State House, Wasliington would not ascend to the balcony prepared for him at the west end, until assured that the governor was not there ; and after the passage of the procession before him, retired to his lodgings. To add to the coldness of his reception, a cold dinner awaited him ; l)ut his landlord procured and placed before his guest a fish of great excellence, and thus saved liis credit at the last moment. AVashington himself declared the circumstance had been so disagreeable and mortifying that, notwithstanding all the marks of respect and affection he had received from tlie inhabitants of Boston, he would have avoided the place had he anticipated it.* Governor Hancock, perceiving that he had made a fiasco, hastened to repair it. General Washington had declined his invitation to dinner, so the governor caused himself to be car- ried next day to the general's lodgings, where he presented himself swathed in flannels as a victim of gout. The general received the governor's excuses with due civility, whatever may have been his i)rivate con\actions, and so the affair terminated. !Mad;im Hancock, indeed, related afterwards that the gover- nor was really laid up with gout, and that Washington shed tears when he saw the servants bringing the helpless man into his presence. Governor Drooks, and Hon. Jonathan Jackson, * Hundred Boston Orators. 44 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. then Marshal of the District, dined with the general on the day of his arrival, but did not hold this view, and the affair was freely discussed at table. Hancock seems to have yielded to the popular pressure which condemned his conduct. He was said to have been jealous of Washington's elevation to the Presidency. The general returned the governor's visit, was affable among friends, but stood on his dignity when strangers were present. Harrison Gray Otis was one of the first who occupied this old corner for a law office. In his day it was considered quite on one side, though only a few paces distant from the Court House. ]Mr. Otis came upon the stage a little before the open- ing of the Eevolutionary conflict. He remembered seeing Earl Percy's reinforcements mustering for their forced march to Lexington. A pupil of Master Lovell at the Latin School, in 1773, he was removed to Barnstable during the siege of Boston, where he quietly pursued his studies, graduating at Harvard at eighteen. He was an able lawyer, and until the advent of Mr. Webster, — about which time ho relinquished practice, — was the acknowledged leader of the Boston bar. Judge Story thought him the greatest popular orator of his day. His personal appearance was elegant and attractive ; his voice, strong and melodious, often sounded in Faneuil Hall. Mr. Otis was prominently identified with public affairs. In politics he was a Federalist, and a leader of that party in Con- gress from 1797 to 1801. He was also an influential member of the celebrated Hartford Convention. In 1817, after filling a number of State offices, Mr. Otis went into the United States Senate ; and became mayor of his native city in 1 829. He was the grandson of Harrison Gray, treasurer of the colony and a Royalist, and nephew of James Otis, the patriot. Gifted in oratory, with a winning manner and p dished address, Harrison Gray Otis ranks liigli among Boston's public men. One of the public schools is named for him. In the building we are inspecting was once the law office of the great expounder of the Constitution, Daniel Webster, who first came to Boston in 1801, and studied law with Cliristo- king's chapel and the neighbokhood. 45 pher Gore, afterwards Governor of jMassachusetts. He kept school a short time for his brother Ezekiel, in Short Street, since Kingston. Edward Everett, who lived with his mother in Xewbury Street, was about ten years old, and went at this time to Webster's school. It is related of Mr. Webster, that when a young man, about to begin the study of law, he was advised not to enter the legal i)rofession, as it was already crowded. His reply was, J' There is room enough at the top." ^Ir. Webster removed to Portsmouth, N. H., returning to Boston in 181 G, and in 1820 he was a member of the Massachusetts Constitutional Conven- tion. His orations at the laying of the corner-stone of Bunker Hill ^Monument, June 17, 1825, when Lafayette was present, and also on its completion, June 17, 1843, are familiar to every school-boy. An unsuccessful candidate for the Presidency in 1836, he entered the cabinet of General Harrison in 1840, as Secretary of State, negotiating the long-disputed question of boundary with Great Britain by the Ashburton treaty. His great reply to Hayne of South Carolina, in the Senate, in which he defended New England against the onslaughts of the Southern Senator, made him the idol of the people of Boston. This speech, which opens with the graphic simile of a ship at sea in thick weather, her position unknown and her crew tilled with anxiety, was, it is said, delivered without preparation, amid the gloomy forebodings of the Xew England men in Washington. His wife, even, who heard the fiery harangue of Hayne, feared for the result ; but the " Northern Lion " reas- sured lier with the remark that he would grind the Southern Senator " finer than the snuff in her box." Notwithstanding the sledge-hammer force of Webster's elo- quence he was often at a loss for a word, but when it came to him it was exactly the right one. His clearness of expression is well illustrated by the following anecdote of David Crockett, who, having heard Mr. Webster speak, accosted hmi afterwards Avith the inquiry, "Is this Mr. Webster?" "Yes, sir." " Well, sir," continued Crockett, " I had heard that you were a very great man, but I don't think so. I heard your speech and understood every word you said." 46 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Mr. Webster's hesitation for a suitable expression is well described by the following anecdote. At a meeting in Faneiiil Hall he was arguing in favor of the " Maysville Road " bill, with his usual jDOwer, and remarked, "I am in favor, Mr. Chairman, of all roads, except, excej^t — " Here he stuck, at fault for a word, until Harrison Gray Otis, who sat near him on the platform, said in a low voice, " Say except the road to ruin." Mr. Webster adopted the suggestion, and used it as if he had merely paused to make his remark more effective. In Bench and Bar, it is related that, while Webster was Secretary of State, the French Minister asked him whether the United States would recognize the new government of France. The Secretary assumed a very solemn tone and attitude, saying, " Why not 1 The United States has recognized the Bourbons, the French Eepublic, the Directory, the Council of Five Hun- dred, the First Consul, the Emperor, Louis XYIIL, Charles X., Louis PhilipiDc, the — " "Enough! Enough!" cried the Minister, perfectly satisfied by such a formidable citation of consistent precedents. Mr. Webster lived in Somerset Street, and also at the corner of High and Summer Streets, during the different periods of his residence in Boston. The house in Somerset Street is on the east side, is numbered tliirty-seven, and is still standing. It was occupied successively by Uriah Cotting, Daniel Web- ster, Abbott Lawrence, and Rev. Ephraini Peabody of King's Chapel. Webster's residence in High Street is marked by a splendid block of stores, aptly styled "Webster Buildings." Here he resided at the time of Lafoyette's visit in 1825, and received the distinguished Frenchman on the evening of the 1 7th of June. Mr. W(il)ster was a genuine lover of nature and of field sports, and Avas a good shot. He delighted in his farm at Marshtield, and in his well-fed cattle. Gray's Elegy was his favorite poem, and he was accustomed to repeat it with great feeling and emphasis. Of his two sons, Edward died in ^Mexico, a Major of the ^Massachusetts Volunteers ; Fletcher, Colonel of tlie Twelfth Massachusetts Volunteers in the AVar of the Rebellion, was killed near Bull Run in 1862. king's ClIArEL AXD THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 47 AVitli two such distingiiislied liglits of the profession as Otis and Webster before them, it is no wonder the old corner retains its magnetism for tlie disciples of Sir William Black- stone. Having now passed down one side of ancient " Treamount " Street, we will repair to the corner of Howard Street, and go up the other side, following the practice of the fathers of the town, who numbered the streets consecutively down on one side and up the other. This is still the custom in London, and was doubtless imported with many other old- country usages. Old "Treamount Street" began in 1708, at the extreme cor- ner of Court Street and Tremont Eow, as they now are, and extended around the base of what was first called Cotton Hill (so called as late as 1733), from the residence of Rev. John Cotton ; subsequently Pemberton Hill, from James Pemberton, a later resident at the north end of what is now Pemberton Square. It was at first merely called a highway, like the other principal avenues, received very early the name of street, and was at the northerly part caUed Sudbury Lane, 1702. It ter- minated at Beacon Street. Pemberton Hill, a spur of Beacon, now marks a level of about eighty feet below the summit of the original hill, it having been cut doA^Ti in 1835. On the brow of the hill, later the residence of Gardiner Greene, was the mansion of Governor Endicott, that uncom- promising Puritan who, in 1629, sent the obnoxious Episcopa- lians home to England, and afterwards cut out the cross from the King's standard because it "savored of popery." John Endicott was sent to America by the jNlassachusetts Company, in England, of which ^lathew Cradock was governor, as their agent, and Avas governor of the colony which settled at Salem in 1628. He was the successor of Winthrop, as governor, in 1644, and again in 1649, and removed to Boston in the former year. Endicott filled a number of important offices ; was ap- pointed Sergeant Major-General in 1645, and in 1652 estab- lished a mint, which, though without legal authority, contiiuied to supply a currency for more than tliirty years. Governor 48 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ENDICOTT CUTTING OLT THE CROSS. Endicott opposed the crusade of Eev. John Cotton against the "wearing of veils by ladies, and had a warm personal discussion with that eminent divine. His portrait is more hke a cardinal of Eichelieu's time than a Puritan soldier. His head is covered by a close-litting velvet skull-cap, from which the curling iron-gray hair is escaping down his shoulders ; a broad linen collar, fastened at the throat with cord and tassel, fiills upon his breast, while his small white right hand is grasping a gauntlet richly embroidered. En- dicott's forehead is massive, his nose large and prominent ; but a gray mustache which decorates his upper lip ellectually con- ceals the expression of his mouth, while a long imperial of the French fashion hides a portion of the chin. His whole coun- tenance, however, indicates strength, resolution, and courage. The nmtilation of the flag was not an act of bravado at a safe distance from punishment, but of conscience ; and Ins portrait sliows us that, having once formed a conviction, he would pur- sue it regardless of consequences. Captain Cyprian Southack had a comfortable estate of two acres, in 1702, lying on the northerly and easterly slope of the hill. Howard Street, which was first named Southack's Court I'or liiin, subsequently Howard Street, from John Howard the philanthropist, ran through his lands. Captain Southack served under the famous Colonel Benjamin Church in an expedition against the French and Indians in 1704, in which he com- manded a small vessel, called the Province Snow, of fourteen guns. When Admiral Sir H. AValker arrived in Boston in 1711, with a fleet and five thousand men destined to act against the French in Canada, he took up his residence with Southack in Tremont Street. The captain was to lead the van of the expedition. king's chapel and the neighborhood. 49 In 1717 the pirate ship AVliidah, commanded by the noto- rious Samuel Bellamy, was wrecked on tlie rocks of that part of Eastliam, now WellHeet. The council despatched Captain Southack to tlie scene of the disaster. His powers are indi- cated by the following original document : — " By virtue of power to m^, given by his Excellency Sand. Shute, Esip, CJovt., and the Admiral, bearing date April 3()tli, 1717, to seize what goods, merchandise, or effects have or may be found or taken from the Pirate shij) wreck at Cape Codd, and those taken up by Joseph Done, Esq., in carting and bringing in to me the sub- scriber for his Majesty's service at Mr. Wm. Brown's at Eastham. "Cyprian Southack, "Eastham, May 6, 1717." Bellamy's ship was purposely run on shore by the captain of a small vessel he had captured the day before. The captain was to have received his vessel from the pirate in return for piloting him into Cape Cod harbor, but, distrusting the good faith of his captor, run his own vessel so near the rocks that the large ship of the pirate was wrecked in attempting to follow her. A storm arose, and the rest of the pirate fleet, thrown into confusion, shared the ftite of their commander. Captain Southack buried one hundred and two bodies. A few that escaped the wreck were brought to Boston and executed. For a long time — as late as 1794 — copper coins of William and Mary, and pieces of silver, called cob money, were picked up near the scene of the wreck. The violence of the sea moved the sands upon the outer bar, so that the iron caboose of the vessel was visible at low ebb.* Thefxlore Lyman, senior, father of the mayor of that name, owned and occupied a mansion on the corner of Howard and Treraont Streets in 1785. A beautiful green lawn extended in front of his residence. These charming oases in the midst of the desert of ])rick walls have long ceased to exist except in the public squares. This lot was also intended to have been used by the Brattle Street Church Society when they rebuilt in 1772 - 73 ; but Governor Hancock, by the present of a bell, * Massachusetts Historical CoUectious, 3 D 60 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. induced tliem to rebuild on the old site. Tliis location was also occupied by Holland's Coffee House, afterwards the Pern- berton House, destroyed Ijy fire in 1854. Passing the estate of John Jekyll, Esq., one of the earliest collectors of the port of Boston, 1707, and a great friend of his neighbors the Faneuils, we come to that of Kev. John Cotton, the sjiiritual father of Boston. John Cotton, as stated in our introductory chapter, was vicar of St. Botolph's Church in Bos- ton, England, but inclined to the Puritan form of worship. Cited to appear before the notorious Archbishop Laud for omitting to kneel at the sacrament, he fled to America, and arrived in Boston in 1633, three years after the settlement. Here he became a colleague of tlie lie v. John Wilson in the pastorate of tlie First Church. He was a man of great learning, well acquainteil with Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, and published many sermons and controversial works. He died from the effects of exposure in crossing the Cambridge ferry, and has a memorial erected to his memory in his old church of St. Botolph's, England, through the liberality of Edward Everett and other Bostonians. The house of Mr. Cotton stood a little south of the entrance to Pemberton S(|uare, near the street, and was standing about fifty years ago. It was then considered the oldest in Boston, and the back part, which remained unaltered, had tlie small diamond panes of glass set in lead. His ample estate extended back over the hill as far as Dr. Kirk's Church in Asliburton Place, and embraced all the central portion of what is now Pemberton Square. This house had a still more distinguished tenant in Henry Vane the younger, who resided in it during his stay of two years in Boston, making some additions to the building for his own greater comfort. Sir Harry, whose eventful history is familiar, was received with great respect by Winthrop and the people of the town, on his arrival in 1G35. His father, Sir Henry, was Secretary of State and Treasurer of the House- hold under James I. and Charles I. Alienated from the Church of England, young Harry Vane refused to take the king's chapel and the neighborhood. 51 oath of allegiance, and became a Kepublican and a l^uritan. He was only twenty-four when chosen governor of Massaclni- setts Colony. During his administration the religious contro- versy between tlie congregation and the new sect of Faniilists, of which -Anne Hutchinson was the acknowledged exponent, broke out. Sir Harry, opposed by Winthrop, was defeated at a second election of governor, but was immediately chosen a representative from the town to the General Court. lieturning to England, in 1G37, he was elected to Parliament and knighted in 1G40. He is said to have presented the bill of attainder against the Earl of Strafford. Disliking Cromwell's dissolution of tlie Long Parliament, Vane withdrew from public alfairs until 1649, when he became member of the Council of State, witli almost exclusive control of naval and foreign affairs of the Commonwealth. At the restoration of Charles II. he was thrown into the Tower, and executed on Tower Hill, Lon- don, June 14, 1G02. His bearing at the place of execution was manly and dignified, and he has been descril)ed by Eorster as one of the gxeatest and purest men that ever walked the earth : — "Vane, young in years, but in sage counsel old, Than whom a better senator ne'er held The helm of Rome, when gowns, not arms, repelled The fierce Ejjirot and th' Afric bold, Whether to settle peace, or to unfold The drift of hollow states hard to be spelled ; Then to advise how war may, best uphehl, Move by her two main nerves, iron and gold, In all her e(|uipage ; besides, to know Both spiritual jjower and civil, wliat each means. What severs each, — thou hast learned what few have done, The bounds of either sword to thee we owe ; Tlierefore on thy fimi hand Religion leans In peace, and reckons thee her eldest son. " Judge Samuel Sewall, Chief Justice of tlie colony, in whose family the estates of Cotton and Bellingham became united, lived here in 1C89. He was repeatedly applied to to sell a piece of his land to the Episcopalians to build a church upon, but refused. He marricul a daughter of John Hull, the cele- brated mint-master, w^itli whom he got, at diilerent tim(^s, a 52 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. snug portion of Master Hull's estate. He was one of the judges during the witchcraft trials of 1692, but afterwards expressed contrition for his share in that wretched business. Stoughton, on the contrary, on one occasion, indignant at the governor's reprieve of some of the victims, left the court exclaiming, " We were in a way to have cleared the land of these. Who is it obstructs the course of justice I know not. The Lord be mer- ciful to the country ! " Judge Sewall was a considerable proprietor, owning a large estate on Beacon Hill, known in his time as Sewall's Elm Pasture. Through this were laid out anciently Coventry, Sewall, and Bishop-Stoke Street, the latter named from his English birthplace. The judge left a diary, now in posses- sion of the Historical Society, containing much contemporary history. He attended the Old South, and related to Rev. Dr. Prince the story of Johnson's settlement and burial in Boston. Patrick Jeffrey, who married Madam Haley, sister of the celebrated John Wilkes of the North Briton, became a subse- quent possessor of the Cotton estate. Somerset Street, named from John Bowers of Somerset, Mass., crosses the Jeffrey or Cotton estate, and the former conveyed to the town, in 1801, so much of that street as passed through his property. Another proprietor of the Cotton estate was Gardiner Greene, well remembered as one of the wealthiest citizens of Boston. By purchase of his neighbors, Mr. Greene became possessed of the larger portion of Pemberton Hill, which he greatly beauti- fied and improved. The hill was terraced, and ^Ir. Greene's mansion — which, though substantial, had no special marks of elegance — was reached by long flights of steps. Mr. Greene is said to have owned the only greenhouse then existing in Boston, and his grounds, adorned by nature and art, made alto- gether the finest private residence in the town. INIr. Greene's third wife was a sister of Lord Lyndhurst, son of the celebrated painter, Copley, and a Bostonian, who be- came a peer of the i-ealm and Lord Chancellor of Great Brit- ain. He was called the "Nestor of the House of Lords," king's chapel and the neighborhood. 53 and was noted for liis dry caustic humor. Once, when Lord Brougham, speaking of tlie salary attached to a certain appoint- ment, said it was all moonshine, Lyndhurst, in his waggish way remarked, " Maybe so, my Lord Harry ; but I have a con- founded strong notion that, moonsliine though it be, you would like to see the first quarter of it." Gardiner Greene's residence was occupied in 1775 by a noble tenant, Percy, afterwards Earl of Northumberland, gallant, chivalrous, and brave, — " Wlio, when a younger son, Fought lor King George at Lexington, A major of dragoons." Percy it was who saved the royal troops from destruction at Lexington, on the ever memorable 19th of April, 1775. He seems to have changed his quarters quite often, for, about the time of the affair at Lexington, he was ordered by General Gage to take possession of the Hancock house on Beacon Street. He also resided some time with Mrs. Sheaffe, widow of the collector, in Essex Street. We shall call on him at his several habitations. Richard Bellingham, Esq., Governor of Massachusetts in 1635, in 1641, and again in 1654, and from 1666, after the death of Endicott, until his own decease in 1672, was the next neighbor of Cotton. Anne Hibbins, who married William Hib- bins, an early settler of Boston, for many years in the service of the Colony, was a relative of Governor BelHngham. This unfortunate woman, denounced for witchcraft, was executed in 1656, when an accusation was equivalent to condemnation, and forfeited her life to the superstitious bigotry of the period. Governor Bellingham served the colony as governor and dep- uty for twenty-three years ; was ordered by Charles II. to England with other obnoxious persons, but ])ru(U'iitly declined going, by advice of the General Court. Bellingham, whose intellect was said to have been impaired, was an unrelenting persecutor of the Quakers. His house stood on the spot after- wards occupied by the residence of Lieutenant-G()V(M-nor Pliil- lips, opposite the north end of the Chapel Burying-Ground, 54 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. and about midway from the entrance to Pemberton Square to Beacon Street. Tlie Bellingham estate was also the property of Peter Paneuil, who received it from Andrew, his uncle, in 1737. The house, a fine old stone mansion, stood on the hillside some distance back from the street. Opening into the cellar was a curious cylindrical brick vault, resembling in shape a wine- cask, and used as a wine-cellar by the more modern occupants. It was about fifteen feet in diameter by twenty-five feet long ; 'and as it formed no part of the original cellar, which was amply sufficient for ordinary purposes, Avas considered to have been a place of concealment for smuggled goods. The following description of the Faneuil house is from Miss Quincy's Memoir : " The deep court-yard, ornamented by flowers and shrubs, was divided into an upper and lower plat- form by a high glacis, surmounted by a richly wrought iron railing decorated with gilt balls. The edifice was of brick, painted white ; and over the entrance door was a semicircular balcony. The terraces which rose from the paved court behind the house were supported by massy walls of hewn granite, and were ascended by flights of steps of the same material. A grasshopper yet glittered on a summer-house which com- manded a view only second to that from Beacon Hill." Such was the mansion at the time of its occupancy by Gov- ernor Phillips. Andrew Faneuil erected on this estate the first hothouse in New England. The deed to him describes the mansion as " a stone house." The Faneuils were French Huguenots from La Eochelle, ever memorable from its siege and gallant defence, and came to America after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The name is erroneously inscribed "Funel" on the stone which covers the remains of the Faneuils in the Granary Burying-Ground. Peter Faneuil is best known as the munificent donor of Fan- euil Hall to the town of Boston. He was born at New Eochelle, near New York, in 1700 ; was the wealthiest Bos- tonian of his day, and after having lived only forty-two years, died suddenly of dropsy in 1742. Like many of liis KINGS CHArEL AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. bi) contemporaries, lie was a slaveholder, and there is a sort of poetic justice in the fact that the first steps for the emancipa- tion of slaves in Boston were taken in Faneuil Hall. Peter Faneuil lived in a style worthy his position as a prince among merchants. He owned a chariot and coach, with English horses, for state occasions, and a two and four wheeled chaise for ordinary purposes. He had five negroes, and four- teen hundred ounces of plate, among which is enumerated "a large handsome chamber-pot." His cellar was bursting with good wine, arrack, beer, Cheshire and Gloucester cheeses, — what wonder his decease was sudden ! — and he died owner of eight buildings in Cornhill and King Street, with many vessels and parts of vessels. To retrograde a little, next north of Peter Faneuil's once dAvelt Rev. John Davenport, who came over to Boston in 1637. He was one of the founders of New Haven, Connecti- cut. "When the Regicides, as Charles I.'s judges Gofi'e and Whalley were styled, were forced to live in concealment, Davenport took them into his own house. Returning to Bos- ton he became, in 16G8, pastor of the First Church, but died in 1G70, after holding his charge but a short time, and lies in the " Old Burial-Place," opposite where he once lived. The estate of Rev. John Davenport remained for nearly a century the property of the First Church, and was occupied by Fox- croft, Clarke, and others. Lieutenant-Governor William Phillips, by birth a Bostonian, became the proprietor of the Faneuil mansion and estate in 1791, which was confiscated in 1783 by the Commonwealth. Governor Phillips also acquired the Davenport estate in 1805, which gave him a magnificent homestead, well worthy one of the solid men of Boston. He was in ofiice from 1812 to 1823. INIr. Phillips made a most liberal use of the fortune he inherited, was a great benefactor of the Massachusetts General Hos- pital during his life, and made valuable bequests to Phillips Academy, Andover Theological Seminary, and other institu- tions. Rev. John Oxenbridge, another pastor of the First Church, 56 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. lived on the site of the Pavilion in 1G71. A former occu- pant was Colonel Samuel Shrimpton, who at one time owned Noddle's Island (East Boston), and gave his name to what is now Exchange Street, once Shrimpton's Lane. Rev. Jolin Oxenbridge was educated at Oxford and also at Cambridge, was a popular preacher and a fluent writer. Dying in 1674, he was interred, like his predecessor DavenjDort, in the Old Burying-Place opposite. George Cradock, Collector of Boston, lived here in 1728. We have now reached the corner of Beacon Street, wliich was first styled the lane leading to the Almshouse, a rather humble designation for the most aristocratic street of Boston. The Albion corner was once occupied by James Penn, ruling elder of the First Church, and a citizen of note. It became later the estate of Samuel Eliot, father of Mayor Eliot, noted for his reforms in the Eire Department. Both the Albion site and that of the block of houses west of it were occupied by Mr. Eliot's mansion-house and gardens. He was a true gentleman of the old school, wedded to the customs of a past generation. In the coldest weather he appeared in his customary cocked hat, small clothes, and ruffled shirt bosom, without cloak or overcoat. He was a dealer in dry goods at the west corner of Wilson's Lane, in Dock Square. From the array of honorable names presented, Tremont Row was once entitled to be called the Rotten Row of Boston. En- dicott. Vane, Bellingham, governors of the Colony ; Phillips, lieutenant-governor of the State ; and the eminent divines Cot- ton, Davenport, and Oxenbridge, all found a residence here. We continue our perambulations through School Street, wliich, receiving its name from the old Latin School, was called Latin School Street. Its limits were the same as now, and it was first called the lane leading to Centry Hill. It was laid out in 1640. Below the old King's Chapel stood the Latin School, whose situation and removal to the opposite side of the street has already been described. It originated in 1634, and Philemon Pormont was " intreated to become schoolmaster for the teaching king's chapel and the neighborhood. 57 and nourteiing of children with vs." Tliis was the beginning of that educational system in which Boston takes so just a pride. The grounds extended down the street nearly to the Franklin statue. The building itself was of one story, large enough to accommodate a hundred scholars. Franklin went to the Latin School one year, entering in 1714, at the age of eight years; his statue is, therefore, becomingly placed near his alma mater. John Hancock also attended the school, entering in 1745 ; his much-admired and striking autograph was doubtless acquired on its hard benches. Eobert Treat Paine, the elder, Lieutenant- Governor Gushing, James Bow^loin, Gotton ]\Iather, Samuel Adams, Sir AVilliam Pepperell, and a host of names famous in our history, prepared here for future high stations. The early masters were men of erudition and high consider- ation in the town. Ezekiel Gheever ranks at the head of the old pedagogues. He was one of the founders of Xew Haven, and a teacher for seventy years at Kew Haven, Ipswich, Gharles- town, and Boston. John Lovell presided over the school, as usher and principal, from 1717 until 1775, when the siege put an end to it for a time. He decamped with the Royalists in 1776. He delivered the first public address in Faneuil Hall on the death of its founder. Lovell's house adjoined the new school, and after the evacuation General Gage's coach and phaeton, with harness entire, were found there. Of the school on the opposite side of the street, which, till 1844, stood on the site of the Parker House, many distinguished Bostonians have been pupils, among whom Harrison Gray Otis, Rev. Dr. Jenks, R. G. Winthrop, Gharles Sumner, and the sculptor Greenough are conspicuous. The Gentre Writing School was built in 1 790, on the north side of School Street. It was a two-story wooden Iniilding, and was pulled down in 1812, as it then obstructed the front of the new Gourt House. This was the school of ]\ Lister James Gar- ter. The pupils were accommodated ])y an enlargement of the Latin vSchool. The statue in bronze of Benjamin Franklin, in the grounds 3* 58 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. of the City Hall, is by Richard S. Greenough, and was cast hy the Ames Manufacturing Company at ChicojDee, Mass. It is eight feet high, and stands on a pedestal of granite, capped with a block of verd antique marble. Four bas-reliefs represent different periods of Franklin's career. It was publicly inaugu- rated September 17, 185G. When Franklin worked in the printing-office of Mr. Watts, Little Wild Street, London, he was called by his fellow-work- men the " Water American," because he refused to drink any- thing else, while they drank their five pints of beer apiece dady. When he went to England afterwards, as agent for Massachu- setts, he went into this office, and going up to a particular press (now in this country), said to the two workmen, " Come, my friends, we will drink together. It is now forty years since I worked like you at this press, a journeyman printer." Franklin's celebrated toast at Versailles will not lose by repe- tition. At the conclusion of the war he, with the English Ambassador, was dining with the French Minister Vergennes ; a toast from each was called for. The British minister began with, " George III., who, like the sun in its meridian, spreads a lustre throughout and enlightens the world." The French ambassador followed with, " Louis XVI., who, like the moon, sheds its mild and benignant rays on and illumines the world." Our American Franklin then gave, " George Wash- ington, commander of the American armies, who, like Joshua of old, commanded the sun and moon to stand still, and they obeyed him." The City Hall stands on ground sold to the town by Thomas Scotto in 1645. The foundation of the present building was laid in 1862 witli appropriate ceremonies. It is built of Con- cord granite, and was designed by Messrs. Bryant and Gilman. The first Town House was erected between 1657-59, at the head of State Street, of wood, where the Old State House now stands. A legacy had been left by Captain Robert Keayne, in 1656, for this purpose, which was supplemented by sub- scriptions from Governors Endicott, Bellingham, and others. This building was consumed in the fire of 1711 ; another, built KING S CHAPEL AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. o9 of brick in 1712, was burnt in 1747, with the early books, records, and valuable papers. In 1748 the Town House was rebuilt. Faneuil Hall was also used as a Town House for nearly eiglity years, and the first city government was organized there. In 1830 the city government removed to the Old State THE OLD COURT HOUSE AND CITY HALL. House, which Avas, on September 17, dedicated as the City Hall. In 1840 the old County Court House, on the present site, was remodelled for a City Hall, and continued to be so iintil the erection of the present building and dedication in 1865. Our view of the Old Court House is taken from School Street, and shows how the buikling and surroundings appeared in 1812. In the left foreground is Barristers* Hall, and to the ri"ht the wall and enclosure of Dr. Samuel Clarke's house is seen. The County Court House, referred to as occupying this site, was built in 1810, of granite. The main building was octago- nal, with wings at each side. It was one hundred and forty feet long, and was occupietl by the offices of Probate, Registry of Deeds, and the County Courts. This building was called Johnson Hall, in honor of Isaac Johnson, tradition having 60 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ascribed to this spot the location of his house, — a name which does not seem to have been generally adopted. Next the county property, in 1760, once lived one of the greatest of the ante-Revolutionary patriots, James Otis, " whose electric eloquence was like the ethereal flash that quenched its fire." Otis came to Boston when he was twenty-five, in 1750, and in 1761 made the famous speech against the "Writs of Assistance." Some severe strictures which he made upon the officers of customs resulted in an attack on him at the British Coffee House in King Street, by John Robinson, a commis- sioner of customs, and others. Otis was severely injured, and received a deep cut on the head, which ultimately contributed to cause his insanity. As an instance of the magnanimity of Otis, he refused the damages awarded him by the court, upon receiving an apology from his assailant. In 1769 Otis was causing the greatest concern to his friends for the increasing symptoms he gave of coming mental aberration. John Adams says of him : " I fear, I tremble, I mourn for the man and his country ; many others mourn over him with tears in their eyes." Otis withdrew to the country in 1770, and, after a brief lucid period, during which he resumed practice in Bos- ton, he was killed at Andover in May, 1783, by a stroke of lightning, at the age of fifty-eight. Next the residence of Otis, where Niles's Block now is, was the house of Jean Paul Mascarene, a French Huguenot of Lan- guedoc. He went to England and entered the army, coming in 1711 to Nova Scotia, of which he became Lieutenant- Governor, and ultimately rose to the rank of Major-General. He died in Boston in 1760. The house was of two stories, of brick, and painted white. The Mascarene family were loyal- ists, and retired to Nova Scotia when the Revolution began. Dr. John Warren, th^ youngest brother of Joseph Warren, killed at Bunker Hill, next occupied the premises. The old house and gardens are still remembered by many. Dr. Warren served in the American army as hospital surgeon, and was long the most eminent surgeon in New England. On the day of Bunker Hill, the anxiety of the doctor for his brother led him king's CILVrEL AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. Gl to attempt to pass a giuinl, who gave him a bayonet wound, the mark of which lie carried to liis grave. Dr. Warren was the father of Dr. John C. AVarren, scarcely less eminent in his pro- fessicm than his father. The old doctor died in 1815, and was buried from King's Chapel, Dr. James Jackson delivering the eulogy. Both Joseph and John Warren were born in the old wooden house on Warren Street, in what was formerly Rox- bury. The original mansion, being ruinous, was rebuilt on the site of the old in 184G, partly of the old materials, by Dr. John C. Warren. Many a pilgrimage is paid to the birthplace of the hero who placed himself, against the advice of friends, in the post of honor and of danger. The Cromwell's Head, a famous tavern, was on the spot where the building numbered 19 now stands, which is to-day, as of yore, devoted to the replenishing of the inner man. It was kept by Anthony Brackett in 1760, by his widow from 1764: to 1768; and later by Joshua Brackett. Its repute was good, for we find the Marquis Chastellux alighting there in 1782, before paying his respects to M. de Vaudreuil, com- mander of the French fleet that was to convey away Ilocham- beau's army. The sign of this hostelry was the' effigy of the Lord Protector Cromwell, and it is said hung so low that all who passed were compelled to make an involuntary reverence. The royal officers would not allow it to remain ; it was too suggestive of the overthrow of kingly authority ; but Brackett, in whose eyes this circumstance gave it additional value, replaced it after the evacuation. j\Iine host Brackett's carte is surmounted by a facsimile of the sign, from a plate by Paul Revere, and shows that besides board, lodging and eating, one might have wine, punch, porter, and liquor, with due care for his beast, for certain pounds, shillings, and pence. Brackett's, no doubt, commanded the patronage of his neighbors we liave been noting. Rare Ben Jonson's lines might have been a trunq^et- call to his votaries, — " Wine is tlie word that glads the heart of man, And mine 's tlie liouse of wine. Scick says my bush, Be merry and drink sherry, that 's my posie." 62 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. But mine host of Croin well's Head had in 1756 a more dis- tinguished guest, for in that year Lieutenant-Colonel Washing- ton visited Boston accompanied by Captain George Mercer of Virginia and Captain Stewart. He came to refer a question of command to General Shirley who had succeeded Braddock in the military control of the colonies. This was after the disas- trous campaign that ended in Braddock's defeat. Washington's next visit was with the commission of the Continental Congress as commander-in-chief. The corner familiarly known as the " Old Corner Book- Store," where have gathered the disciples of black-letter and THE OLD CORNER BOOKSTORE, red-line for so many years, is probably the oldest brick build- ing standing in Boston. It bears the date of 1712, and its erection is supposed to have occurred soon after the great fire of 1711. Shurtleff has given its various occupants in detail, but aside from its literary associations the corner has only a single historical incident. Anne Hutchinson, who fills a chapter in the history of Boston commemorative of the ecclesiastical tyranny of its KlXCr'S CIIArEL AND THE NEir.IIBOr.IIOOD. Go founders, lived here about 1G34. She was the leader of the sect of Antinomians, and daughter of Kev. Francis Marbury of London, — an ancestor of Governor Thomas Hutchinson, and rector of several London parishes. Her mother was great aunt of John Dryden tlie poet. She was a woman of con- summate ability and address, for we learn that liev. John Cotton was ensnared by her, while AVinthrop wavered. The latter, however, became her bitter enemy, and pursued her with great vindictiveness. For a time she had all Boston by the ears, and even public business halted. Islebius, a German, appears to have founded the sect of Antinomians about 1600. It held the "law of Closes to be unprofitable, and that there is no sin in children." " ]Mistris Hutchison," as Governor Winthrop calls her, after a two days' trial was banished in 1638, and went to Rhode Island, the haven of religious refugees. Going afterwards to Xew York, slie fell a victim to an Indian foray. Her l\»llowers in Boston, a numerous faction, were disarmed. Winthrop says " she was a woman of haughty and fierce carriage, a nimble wit and active spirit, a very voluble tongue, more bold than a man, though in understanding and judgment inferior to many women." At the conclusion of jSIrs. Hutchinson's trial she was addressed by Governor Winthrop as folloAvs : — " Mrs. Hutchinson ! the sentence of the court you hear is, that you are banished from out of our jurisdiction, as being a woman not fit for our society, and are to be imprisoned 'til the court shall send you away." Mrs. H. " I desire to know wherefore I am banished." Winthrop. " Say no more ; the court know wherefore, and is satisfied." Just before you come to the Universalist Church, ascending School Street towards Tremont, was the little church of the French Huguenots of Boston. This was the church of the Fan- euils, Baudoins, Boutineaus, Sigourneys, and Johonnots ; their names are not quite extinct among us, although the ortln >gra]ihy may be changed in some instances. The church was built of 64 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. brick, about 1704, was very small, and for a long time its erection was opposed by the town. Before building, the French occupied one of the school-houses. Queen Anne presented a large folio Bible to this church, which afterwards fell into the possession of Mather Byles ; and Andrew Faneuil gave in his will three pieces of plate for communion and baptism, besides his warehouse in King Street. Pierre Daille was the first minister, deceased in 1715, and was succeeded by Le Mercier. A singular incident led to the discovery of Daille's gravestone. While laborers were excavating a cellar on the Emmons estate on Pleasant Street they suddenly uncovered the stone which bore the following inscription : — Here lyes y' body of y* Reverend Mr, Peter Daille minister of y* French church in Boston died the 21 of May 1715 In the 67 year Of his age. After the dissolution of the society, the house of the French Church fell into the hands of the Eleventh Congregational So- ciety, which arose during the excitement caused by the coming of Whitefield. Mr. Crosswell was the pastor, dying in 1785, when the house passed to the Roman Catholics. Mass was first celebrated in the church in November, 1788. It was removed in 1802. The Second Universalist Church stands next west of the French Church site, and like it is soon to disappear from the historic street. It was erected in 1817, after preliminary action in the preceding year by a meeting held at the Green Dragon Tavern. It was much enlarged and improveci in 1837, and entirely remodelled in 1851. Eev. Hosea Ballon was the first pastor. Rev. E. H. Chapin preached here from 1846 to 1848, when he removed to New York, where he is still one of the most eloquent divines of the metropolis. Province Street received its name in 1833, from its vicinity to the Province House. Before that time it was Governor's Al- king's chapel and the neighborhood. Go ley. Chapman Place was Cooke's Court, from Elislia Cooke, a resident of colonial times, who was agent with Increase Mather in England to obtain a new charter for the colony. The house of Elisha Cooke becomes distinguished as the residence of Gov- ernor Burnet until the Province House could be made ready. The house was a two-story brick, with dormer windows, and faced the east. In front was a small court-yard. Loring, in the " Hundred Boston Orators," says : " The res- idence of James Lovell during the Eevolution was on the estate where Chapman Hall is now located, and his family wit- nessed, on the house-top, the burning of Charlestown during the battle of Bunker Hill. While Mr. Lovell was impris- oned in the Boston jail, in Queen Street, in consequence of General Howe having discovered a prohibited correspondence, proving his adherence to the Eevolutionary cause, his devoted wife was daily accustomed to convey his food to the prison door." Chapman Hall was in Chapman Place, and is now suc- ceeded by the Parker House. James was a son of that Master Lovell of whom mention has been made. He had been usher of that school, and master of what is now the Eliot School. He was among the prominent Revolutionary patriots, and had first been imprisoned and finally carried to Halifax on the evacuation. After being exchanged in 1776, Master Lovell became a member of the Continental Congress ; was receiver of taxes in 1784, and after being Col- lector of the port, was for a long time Naval Officer. His son married Helen, one of Mr. Sheaffe's handsome daughters. Besides having replaced the Latin School, tlie Parker House also occupies the ground wliere there long remained an old brick mansion, erected early in the last century by Jacob Wendell. He was a wealthy merchant, and colonel of the Boston Regi- ment in 1745 ; afterwards a councillor, and a director in the first banking institution in the province. His son Oliver, also a leading Bostonian, was the grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes, the only "autocrat" who has ever flourished in Boston. Oliver WendeU was, like his flither, a leading merchant of 66 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. Boston. He was a selectman during tlie siege, and joined in the congratulatory address to Washington when it was termi- nated by the evacuation. The following original document shows us that Wendell was trusted by the commander-in-chief: — The United States of America to the Subscribers Dr. To one month's services by Land and Sea, from March, 25th 1776, to April 25th, Strictly watching the communication from the Town of Boston to the British fleet Laying in Nantasket Eoad in Order to apprehend and seize any British Spies who might have Concealed themselves in the Town in order to Carry Intelligence to our Enemies of the Proceedings of the American Troops then in the Town of Boston, by Order of Major Generall Greene. Thii-ty Days Each man at 12/ p Day is J 108. — Benj Wheeler Benj^ Barnard Andrew Symmes Jr Joshua Bentley John Champney Thomas Tileston Rec the within Contents in full The foUowinf? is indorsed on the back : ■ Oliver Wendell Pay unto Oliver Wendal Esquire one hundred eight pounds Lawful money for the use of the signers of the within account, he being employed by Major General Greene by my order to engage a number of persons for the within service in March 1776 when the Enemy evacuated Boston. Given under my hand at Camp Fredericksburg Novem 12 1778 Hon Major ) G. Washington Genl. Gates ) To Ebenezer Hancock Esq Paymaster Genl Eastern Department Sir, — Pay the above sum of one hundred and eight pounds Law- ful money to Oliver Wendell Esq m consequence of the above order for which this with his receipt shall be your sufficient Warrant By the Generals command Horatio Gates John Armstrong Jr Aid de Camp Head Quarters 25th November 1778 Joseph Green, beyond comparison the keenest wit of his king's chapel and the neighborhood. 67 time, lived in School Street. He was a merchant, — Dr. Byles terms him a distiller, — and accunmlated a handsome property. He was the general satirist, epic, and epitaph writer of his day, and wielded a trenchant pen, of which none stood more in awe than Governor Belcher. His epitaph on the countryman whose forte was raking hay, in which he excelled all hut his employer, is as follows : — " He coiild rake hay ; none could rake faster. Except that raking dog his master." Green, who was well advanced in life when the Eevolutionary struggle begun, removed to England, where he engaged in busi- ness, residing in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, London. He died in London in 1780. There is a portrait of Joseph Green, by Copley, in the possession of Eev. W. T. Snow of Jamaica Plain. Green often run a tilt with Mather Byles, unhorsing his clerical opponent with his goose-quill lance. His residence was between the house of Dr. AVarren and the Crom- well's Head. 68 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTEE 11. FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. Hanover Street. — General Warren. — Tlie Orange-Tree. — Concert Hall. — Brattle Street. — Samuel Gore. — John Smibert. — Nathaniel Sniil^ert. — Colonel Trumbull. — The Adelphi. — Scollay's Buildings anil Sciuare. — Queen Street Writing School. — Master James Carter. — Cornhill. — Brattle Street Parsonage. — Old Prison. — Captain Kidd. — Court Houses. — Franklin Avenue. — Kneeland. — Franklin. — Edes and Gill. — Green and Russell. — First Book and Newspaper printed in Boston. — Rufus Choate. — Governor Leverett. — John A. Andrew. — Henry Dim- ster. — Town Pump. — Old Brick. — General Knox. — Count Rimiford. — John Winslow. STANDING at tlie head of Hanover Street, we are sensible that improvement has ploughed a broad furrow through the North End. Away before us stretches a broad avenue, where once vehicles passed each other with difiiculty. As the old street was, there were places where it was no great feat to jump across. This was the old highway from Winnisim- met Ferry to Treamount Street, first called Orange-Tree Lane, from the tavern at its head. Hanover Street extended at first only from Court to Blackstone Streets. Why this name, a per- petual reminder of a detested House, should have been re- tained, when Queen retired before Court, and King succumbed to State, we cannot otherwise answer than by supposing the changes during the Eevolution spasmodic, rather than syste- matic efforts of republicanism. As wo look down this street, a little way on our left stands the American House. On the ground it covers lived that early martyr to American freedom. General Joseph Warren, who in 17G4, after his marriage, took up his residence and the practice of medicine on this spot. He went to Brattle Street Church, near by. In 1774, while the " Boston Port Bill " was in oper- ation, there was a good deal of suffering in consequence of the FROM THE OrvANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 69 closing of the port, and at this time Colonel Putnam, better known as " Old Put," came to Boston with a drove of sheep for tlie inliabitants, and was Warren's guest. It was Warren who caused the alarm to be given of the British expedition to Concord, by sending Paul Pevere on liis fiimous night ride, and gave timely warning to Hancock and Adams. There are many stories of the manner of Warren's death at Bunker Hill, some of them higldy colored. He was killed after the retreat began, a little way in the rear of the famous redoubt. General Howe, who knew Warren well, said his death was equal to the loss of five hundred men. Colonel John Trumbull, who, when in England in 1786, painted liis picture of the Battle of Bunker Hill, gives the following rela- tion of the flill of Warren by Colonel Small, who w^as on the held, and is represented by Trumbull endeavoring to save the life of Warren : — "At the moment when the troops succeeded in carrying the redoubt, and the Americans were in full retreat, General Howe, who had been wounded by a spent l)all, was leaning on my arm. He called suddenly to me, ' Do you see that elegant young man who has just fallen ?' I looked to the spot to which he pointed. ' Good God- ! ' he exclaimed, ' I believe it is my friend Warren ; leave me then instantly, — run, — keep off the troops, — save him if possible ! ' I flew to the spot. ' INIy dear friend,' I said to him, ' I hope you are not badly hurt.' He looked up, seemed to recol- lect, smiled, and died. A musket-ball had passed through the upper part of his head." The body lay on the field until the next day, when it was recognized by Dr. Jeffries and John Winslow of Boston, and interred on the spot where he fell. General Howe's solicitude does not seem to have extended to AVarren's remains, which, however, received a soldier's burial. After the e^'acuation the body was disinterred and deposited in King's Chapel, and sub- sequently in St. Paul's, Tremont Street. The ball which killed Warren is now in possession of William H. jSIontague of Boston. It is a common ounce musket-ball, and does not look at aU flattened. It must ever appear unaccountable why General Ward, at Cambridge, did not attempt to recover the body of 70 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. the President of the Provincial Congress. The usages of war must have been well known to him, and Howe was not the man to refuse the request. Thus died in " the imminent deadly breach " the young hero at the early age of thirty-four. President of the Committee of Safety, of the Provincial Congress, and Major-General, he declined the command at Bunker Hill, taking the jDlace of a common soldier. Deeply hurt by the reflections cast upon the courage of his countrymen, he is said to have exclaimed, " I hope I shall die up to my knees in blood."" To the remon- strances of his friend, Elbridge Gerry, who begged him not to go to Bunker Hill, Warren replied, " I) idee et decorum est jjro patria moriy Adjoining the American House on the west are Codman's Buildings, covering the ground where stood the famous Earl's Coffee House in bygone days. It was established in 1806, and was the headquarters of the New York, Albany, and other mail coaches. " Go call a coach, and let a coach be called." On the north corner of Hanover Street was the Orange-Tree Tavern, which designated the northerly end of Treamount Street in 1732, and beginning of Hanover Street in 1708. It contin- ued a tavern until 1785, when it was advertised to be sold. The name was from the sign of an orange-tree, and the inn was noted for the best well of water in the town, — never dry nor known to freeze. Here was the first hackney-coach stand we have an account of, set up by Jonathan Wardwell, keeper of the Orange-Tree, in 1712. He was succeeded by Mrs. Ward- well, who kept the house in 1724. Concert Hall, of which a considerable moiety is now in the street, was on the southerly corner, and was also a tavern, kept, in 1792, by James Vila. The site was first known as Houchin's Corner, from a tanner of that name who occupied it. The building was of brick, though it underwent various alterations until torn down in 18G9, to make way for the widening of Hanover Street. Concert Hall was owned by the family of Deblois until 1679. Before the Eevolution it was a resort of the FROM THE ORAXGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 71 Friends of Liberty, and as early as 1755, after the installation of Jeremy Gridley as Grand Master of the ]\Iasons in Xorth America, it was used by the Grand Lodge for occasions of meeting or festivity, and continued to be so used until- the present century. Here have met Gridley, the Warrens, llevere, Tomlinson, Oxnard, Webb, and others. Here Captain Preston was dallying on the evening of the fatal 5tji of March, 1770, when he was summoned in hot haste to begin the first act of the great conflict of the American Revolution. The American prisoners captured at Bunker Hill are said to have been tried by a military court in Concert Hall. In 1768 the obnoxious Commissioners of Customs ventured to return from the Castle, while the town was under the control of the newly arrived British troops, and had an ofhce here, with a sentinel at the door. And here came Samuel Adams and James Otis to re- monstrate with them. According to the "Xews Letter," concerts were held in the old hall as early as January, 1755, when "a concert of musick " was advertised to take place there, tickets at four shillings each. Governor Hancock gave, in 1778, a grand ball in Concert Hall to the officers of D'Estaing's fleet, at which three hundred per- sons were present. The Society of the Cincinnati also held meetings in this hall, and the jMassachusetts Mechanic Char- itable Association had their first meetings therein. Peter B. Brigham was for about forty years mine host of Concert Hall. A little east of Concert Hall on Hanover Street lived AVilliam Cooper, Town Clerk of Boston for nearly half a century. His term embraced the Revolutionary period, during which he was an ardent friend of the Whig cause. He was a brother of the patriotic pastor of Old Brattle Street Church. Brattle Street was opened in 1819, from Court Street to the Church. Before this it was a narrow way, known first as Hil- lier's Lane, and sometimes as Belknap's, and as Gay Alley. Looking towards the ruins of tlie old church we notice, on the north side of the street, a continuous row of fourteen buildings, uniform in their general appearance. This was the first block of stone buildin(:cs erected in Boston. 72 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. At the head of Brattle Street lived Samuel Gore, elder brother of Christopher, afterwards governor of the Commonwealth. Gore was a painter, and was one of those stout-hearted mechanics who furnished the muscle of the Revolution while Adams and Otis supplied the brain. One of the Tea Party of 1773, Gore was one of those who seized the two brass guns, Hancock and Adams, from the^un-house in Tremont Street, and conveyed them to the American lines under the very eyes of the British. These two guns are now in Bunker Hill Monument. The celebrated Scotch painter, John Smibert, owned and occupied the premises between Brattle Street and Cornhill in 1743, having acquired part through his marriage with Mary Williams of Boston, and part by purchase. The biographers have but little to say about this pioneer of the fine arts in America. He was before West or Copley, and is said to have influenced the works of the latter, as well as those of Allston and Trumbull. Smibert must have had a large and lucrative custom, for he was possessed of property in Boston and Roxbury, which he bought from time to time, and at his decease left in his studio thirty- five portraits, valued by the appraisers at £ 60 55. 8d Thirteen "landskips" were estimated at the moderate sum of <£ 2 13s., while four historical pieces, " and pictures in that taste," were considered worth <£16. Two conversation pictures, whatever they may have been, were thought worth £ 23 6s. M. His negro girl, Phillis, went for £ 26 13s. 4d He kept his horses and chaise, in which he used to take his wife, Mary Smibert, to Lynde Street Church to hear good Dr. Hooper. Smibert came over to America in 1728 with the Dean, after- wards Bishop Berkeley, settling in Boston in 1730. The largest known work of Smibert's in this country is his picture of Berkeley and family, in which the portrait of the artist is intro- duced. This painting is now in the possession of Yale College. His portrait of Jonatlian Edwards is said to be the only one extant of that learned and eminent divine. Nathaniel Smibert, son of John, took up the profession of his fatlier. He went to the Latin School, under Master Lovell, FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 73 in his early youth, but soon turned to liis father's brusli and easel, with the promise of making a hnished artist, but died at the early age of tAventy-one, deeply regretted by all who knew him. Colonel John Trumbull, aide-de-camp to Washington during the siege, retired in disgust from the service in 1777, on account of the date of an appointment to the rank of colonel, by Gates, being rejected by Congress. He then resumed his study of painting in Boston, amidst the works of Copley, and in the room which had been built by Smibert, and in which remained many of his works. Governor Hancock sat for his portrait to Trumbull while the latter was in Boston. Hancock was presi- dent of the Congress which ignored Trumbull's rank, and had also spoken rather slightly of his family being well cared for by the government, on seeing the latter at the head(|uarters of Washington. Trumbull was stung by the ungenerous remark, and when, after having served as a volunteer in the expedition to Ehode Island in 1778, he fell ill on his return, he at hrst re- pelled the advances of Governor Hancock, who, by considerate attentions, repaired his original offence. Trumbull was a histor- ical painter. The Trumbull Gallery at Yale contains fifty-seven pictures by him. An engraved likeness of Governor Yale, for whom the college was named, is one of the first you see on entering the gallery. The following is his epitaph in the churchyard at Wrexham : — " Born in America, in Europe bred, In Africa travelM, and in Asia wed, Where long he lived and tlirived ; at London dead. ]Much Good, some 111 he did ; so hope all 's even, And that his soul through Mercy 's gone to heaven." Trumbull exhibited, in 1818, in Faneuil Hall, his picture of the Declaration of Independence, and the venerable John Adams was prevailed upon to visit it. He approved the picture ; and, pointing to the door next the chair of Hancock, said, " There, that is the door out of which Washington i*ushed when I first alluded to him as the man best qualified for CLmmander-iu- Chief of the American Army." * * Miss Quincy's Memoir. 4 74 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Colonel Trumbull's liistorical paintings in the rotunda of the Capitol at Washington have gained him a world-wide reputa- tion ; his " Sortie from Gibraltar " is now in the Boston Athe- naeum. He was a fellow-student with Stuart, under West. The paint-room of the Smiberts and of Trumbull continued to be improved by various artists of lesser note until 1785. At this time Mrs. Sheaffe occupied the abode of the Smiberts as a boarding-house. This lady has acquired celebrity through her children. In those days painters sometimes styled themselves limners. One of Mrs. Sheaffe's boarders varied the monotony of portrait painting by doing hair-work in the neatest manner. Part of the Smibert estate went to make the present Brattle Street. This locality, after having served the 'New England Museimi, was, in course of time, appropriated by the Adelphi Theatre. John Brougham was, in 1847, associated with Mr. Bland as manager, with Mrs. Brougham and Mr. Whiting in the corps dramatique. The Adelphi was a side-splitting affair, defying the conventionahties of the modern stage. An open bar stood in the rear of the auditorium, to which the audience were in- vited to repair upon the falling of the curtain. One of the greatest changes that has occurred in Boston is the transformation of the over-crowded thoroughfares around what was known as " ScoUay's Buildings " into the spacious, pleasant area we now call Scollay Square. All of the original is gone except the distinctive appellation, and what has existed in some form for two centuries has vanished " Like the baseless fabric of a vision." The Scollays were Scotch, from the Orkneys. John Scollay is mentioned, in 1G92, as lessee of Winnisimmet Ferry. An- other John Scollay, of the Eevolutionary period, was a man of considerable note in Boston. He was one of the first Fire- AYards of the town, and a selectman during the siege. His son, William, is the one for whom the buildings and square were named. The name, however, and his proprietorship only date back to about 1800. William Scollay was a commander of the Cadets, an apothecary at No. 6 Old Cornhill, and resided FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 75 on tlie site of the ]\Iiiseiini in Treniont Street. He was promi- nently identitied witli Charles Bullinch and others in the im- provement of Franklin Street. A long row of wooden buildings at one time extended from the head of Cornhill to nearly opposite the head of Hanover Street. Both ends of this wedge-shaped range of houses, with the point towards Hanover Street, were cut off at various times, lea\dng only the brick structure of Scollay, lately removed. Scollay's Building was sui)posed to have been erected by Patrick Jeffrey, who came into possession in 1795. Neither age nor incident render the building an object of special interest. Opposite to where Cornhill now opens into Court Street was erected, in 1683 - 84, the second school-house in the town. The first being styled the Latin School, this was termed the Free "Writing School. It is clearly mentioned in 1 69 7, and continued to be used until 1793, when it became private property, the school — then known as the Centre Reading and Writing School — being removed to School Street. The first master here was Samuel Cole. The preamble to the first law establishing schools reads thus : — " It being one chief project of Satan to keep men from the knowl- edge of the Scrij)tures, as in former times keeping them in unknown tongues ; to the end, therefore, that learning may not be buried in the graves of our forefathers, in church and Commonwealth, it is enacted," etc. The school-house is brought into notice in 1744, by a some- what curious afiixir. It appears that Captain W. ^Montague, afterwards a British Admiral, came ashore from his ship, the frigate Eltham, then lying in Nantasket Roads, and, accom- panied by a party from his vessel, indulged in a regular sailor's lark on shore. In the course of their rambles the party com- mitted some depredations on the school-house, for which war- rants were issued against some of the offenders. James Carter was the most famous of the masters of this old school. He was a pedagogue of an extinct type, and nftor a long term of service, continuing almost to the time of his death, 76 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. was buried December 2, 1797. His house adjoined the school- house on the west. Turell's Museum once occupied the old school-house, part of which was removed upon the completion of Cornhill, to afford a free passage into Tremont Street. Green and Russell, one of the old printing houses of Boston, transacted business in an okl building that stood on the site of Scollay's, in 1755. Joseph RusseU, one of the partners, carried on the business of an auctioneer, in which he was very success- ful, and became the owner of the property. William Vassall, a royalist refugee, in 1776, was the next proprietor, followed by Jeffrey. The Colonial Custom-house stood very near this locality in 1757, but we have been unable to discover its exact site. Cornhill owes its name, no doubt, originally, to its London prototype. It is the second street which has borne the name in Boston, and was first called Market Street, as it opened a new route to Faneuil Hall Market. The stores erected in this street were the first raised on granite pillars in Boston. Uriah Cotting built the street in 1817. To his genius Boston owes a debt not yet suitably recognized. Mr. Cotting's remains lie beneath an humble tomb in Granary Burying-ground, but we may appropriately apply to him the epitaph of Sir Christopher Wren : — " Reader, if thou seekest his monument, look around." Opposite to us, now the premises of the Adams Express Com- pany, was the old Parsonage House of Brattle Square Church, given to it by Mrs. Lydia Hancock in 1765. She was the wife of Thomas Hancock (uncle of the patriot), and resided in the old house, as also did her fiither, Colonel Daniel Henchman, grandson of the old Indian fighter. Henchman was a book- seller and bookbinder, and Thomas Hancock served his time with him. Colonel Henchman established the first paper-mill in the colony, at Milton. Since their day it was the residence of the pastors of the church, — last, that of Dr. Lothrop. This house has been noted as one of the dwelling-places of James Otis. The Old Prison stood on the spot where now the massive FROM THE ORxVNGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 77 granite Court House is placed. From it the street was very early named Prison Lane, changed to Queen Street in 1708, and to Court in 1784. What the Old Prison was like is left to conjecture, but we will let an old master of the imaginative art describe it : " The rust on the ponderous iron-work of its oaken door looked more antique than anything else in the Xew World. Like all that pertains to crime, it seemed never to have known a youtliful era." The fancy of Hawthorne in locating a blooming rose-bush on the grass-plot beside the prison door is striking. Here were confined the victims of the terrible witchcraft delusion. " Wlio is he ? one that for lack of land Shall fight upon the water." This hea\y oaken door stood between the notorious pirate, Wil- liam Kidd, and liberty. He arrived in Boston in Jime, 1G99, with his sloop, and was examined before the Earl of Bellomont and the Council of the province. On the 6th of June Kidd was seized and committed to prison with several of his crew, and his vessel taken possession of. When arrested, Kidd attempted to draw his sword and defend himself. By order of the king, he was sent to England in a frigate, and arrived in London April 11, 1700. He was examined before the Admi- ralty, and afterwards before the House of Lords, where great efforts were made to implicate the Earl of Bellomont and other of the lords in Kidd's transactions. The pirate, after a long confinement, was finally hung at Execution Dock. He died hard. The rope broke the first time he was tied up, and he fell to the ground ; a second trial proved more successful. It has been claimed that Kidd was not a pirate. He was an officer in the British navy prior to 1691^ married in this coun- try, and had commanded a merchant ship owned by liobert Livingstone, a wealthy !N'ew York merchant. When, in 1695, the coast of ^ew England was infested with pirates, Living- stone proposed to the Earl of Bellomont to employ Kidd to go in pursuit of them, and off'ered to share the expense of fitting out a vessel. Application was made to the home gov- ernment for a thirty-gun ship, and a commission for Kidd for 78 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. this purpose ; but, the government being then unable to furnish a vessel, the Earl of Bellomont, Lords Halifax, Somers, Eom- ney, Oxford, and others contributed, with Livingstone, to lit Kidd out in the Adventure Galley. He received a commis- sion from the Court of Admiralty in December, 1695, author- izing him to cruise against the king's enemies. Once at sea, Kidd turned pirate, reversing the adage " Set a rogue to catch a rogue," and made several captures ; but his ex- ploits preceded him, and on his return to New England he was arrested. The search after the pirate's hidden treasure has continued ever since. A pot of dollars was dug up in 1790 on Long Island, supposed to have been Kidd's. The fate of the freebooter has often been lamented in the melancholy ditty, — " My name was Captain Kidd, as I sailed," etc. The Old Prison, ugly and uncouth, gave place to a new in 1767, designed by Governor Bernard. This was, two years later, destroyed by fire, the prisoners being with difficulty rescued ; some of them were badly burned. "* The site was then appro- priated by a Court House built of brick, about the Eevolution- ary period, three stories high, with a cupola and bell. Before the erection of the County Court House (City Hall), in 1810, this building was used by all the courts of law held in the county. At this time the County Jail was in an old stone building situated between the Old Court House, just described, and the New. On the ground where it stood was formerly an old wooden building called the Debtor's Jail. The County Jail and Municipal Court House were, in 1822, situated in Lev- erett Street. In 1851 the keys of the Old Prison in Court Street were found under the office of the Leverett Street jail, where they had lain since 1823. They were three in number; were from twelve to eighteen inches in length, and of a most primitive construction. The keys weighed from one to three pounds eacli, and when attached to the jailer's girdle, must have been * Drake's History of Boston. FROM THE ORAXGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. weighty arguments to liis wards. These keys, when found, were over a hundred years old. What a tale they could tell ! In September, 1833, the corner-stone of the present Court House M'as laid, and it was completed in 1836. The building is massive and unattractive. AVithin its granite walls the fugi- tive slave cases were tried, and here also Professor John W. Webster received the death sentence for the murder of Dr. Parknian. The little alley which enters Court Street opposite the east- erly side of Court Square is not unknown to fame. It is to- day FrankUn Avenue, but has been Dassett's, or Dorsett's Alley, and in 1722 was a part of Brattle Street. Daniel Webster's first office was on the northerly corner of this alley. On the corner where now stands the Advertiser building Samuel Knee- land began the printing business in. 171 8, in quite another fashion. Thomas, in his History of Printing, says: — OLD PRINTING-PRESS. " Wilhani Brooker, being appointed Postmaster of Boston, he, on Monday, December 21, 1719, began the publication of another newspaper in that place. This was the second published in the British Colonies, in North America, and was entitled ' The Boston Gazette.' James Franklin was originally employed as printer of this paper ; l>ut in two or three months after the publication commenced Philip Mus- grave was appointed Postmaster, and became proprietor of it. He took the printing of it from Franklin, and gave it to Kneeland. Kneeland also published lii're, in 1727, 'The New England Jour- nal.' He occupied the othce for about forty years." This is also the location assigned James Franklin, the brother of Benjamin, who, as wc have mentioned, printed "The Boston Gazette," on Monday, December 21, 1719. He began, August 6, 1721, the publication of "The New England Courant," the third newspaper in the town. It was, like the other papers, 80 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. printed on a half-sheet of foolscap, and, being of a more pro- gressive cast than the others, soon fell under the ban of rigid Puritans like Eev. Increase Mather. The first number of this paper, made famous by Benjamin Franklin's connection with it, has been rej^rinted, and the whole contents might easily be contained in a single column of one of our present journals. Two very primitive woodcuts, one representing a war ship under full sail, the other a postman galloping over a village, adorn the pages. Benjamin became his brother's apprentice at the age of twelve, in 1718. He soon began to write clandestinely for the paper, and thrust his productions furtively under the office door. But his essays were approved and printed. In 1723, James Frank- lin being forbidden to publish the Courant, it was issued under the name of his younger brother, and bore the imj)rint, " Boston, printed and sold by Benjamin Franklin, in Queen- Street, where advertisements are taken in." Benjamin Franklin remained but a short time with his brother after this. The old press on which he worked is in the possession of Major Poore, of West Newbury, Mass., who obtained it of Isaiah Thomas's heirs. It bears no date, and is old enough to be located at any time since printing began, without danger of dispute. Major Poore is confident of the authenticity of this press, tracing it by Thomas to the office of James Franklin. The building, interesting by its association with the early history of printing in Boston, became a book- store, ornamented with a head of Franklin, and disappeared more than fifty years ago. The amusing rencontre of Franklin with his future wife. Miss Reed, of Philadelpliia, wiU always excite a smile. The house was occupied for eighty years as a printing-house, by Kneeland and others. In 17G9 it became the office of Edes and Gill, who continued there until hostilities commenced, in 1776. Edes and Gill printed a copy of the " Stamp Act," in a pamphlet of twenty-four pages. They also published " The Boston Gazette and Country Journal," a successor of the Ga- zette of Franklin, Kneeland, etc., which had been discontinued. FKOM THE ORAXGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 81 Edes and Gill, when they printed the Stamp Act, occupied premises on the south side of Court Street, about on the pres- ent site of the Adams Express Co. In their back office, on tho old corner, the council for the destruction of the tea was held, of Avhich Samuel vVdaras was the master spirit. The Gazette, imder the control of Edes and Gill, was the paper in which Adams, Otis, Warren, Quincy, and other leaders of popular feel- ing, wrote, and became conspicuous for its able political articles. We present two speci- mens of the renowned British Stamps. Over the printing-office was a long room in which were wont to meet the active pa- triots. They took the name of the Long Eoom Club. Samuel Adams was the leader. Hancock, Otis, Samuel Dexter, AVilliam Cooper, town clerk. Dr. Cooper, War- ren, Church, Josiali Quincy, Jr., Thomas Dawes, Samuel Phil- lips, lioyal Tyler, Paul Kevere, Thomas Fleet, John Winslow, Thomas Melvill, and some others, were members. In this room were matured most of the plans for resistance to British usurpation, from the Stamp Act to the formation of the Provincial Congress at Water- town. After the avenues from the town were closed by General Gage, Edes made his escape by night, in a boat, with a press and a few types, with which he opened an office in Water- town, and printed for the Provincial Congress of Massachusetts. John Gill, his partner, remained in Boston and was imprisoned for printing treason, sedition, and rebellion. Green and Russell, in 1758, became occupants of the corner, and printed the " Weekly Advertiser " therein, which may be considered the progenitor of the present journal of that name. Court Street was long the headquarters of the newspaper 4* F ^^<'^HrLLLXGS/ 82 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. press. During exciting political controversies abuse sometimes waxed warm. In the language of a writer at the beginning of the present century, — " Press answers press ; retorting slander flies, . And Court Street rivals Billingsgate in lies." The first book printed in Boston was an election sermon preached to Governor John Leverett, the Council, and Deputies of the Colony, May 3, 1676. It was a small quarto pamphlet of sixty-three pages. John Foster was the printer. The first regular newspaper was the " News Letter," issued April 24, 1704, by John Campbell, Postmaster of Boston at that time. Bartholomew Green was the printer. Green con- tinued to print it until the close of 1707. The building in which the News Letter was printed stood very near the east corner of Avon Street, on Washington. Tudor's Buildings are named from Colonel William Tudor, who lived on the site. He M^as a member of the old Boston Bar, having studied with John Adams. He was colonel and judge- advocate-general in the Revolutionary army, on the staff of Washington. Colonel Tudor was also a member of the Massa- chusetts House and Senate, Secretary of State 1809-10, and one of the founders of the Historical Society. Fisher Ames, Judge Parker, afterwards Chief Justice, and Josiah Quincy, studied law with him. It is related that Colonel Tudor was once presented at the court of George III. by our ambassador, Eufus King. His Majesty catcliing the name, ejaculated in his disjointed way : *' Eh ! what, what, Tudor, Tudor, — one of us, eh 1 " Rufus Clioate, who as an advocate left no successor at the Boston bar, had an office in the gloomy granite block that for- merly stood below the Court House, on the site of the Sears Building. He had also, for a time, an ofhce on Tremont Row. Choate came to Boston in 1834, after having studied law in the office of William Wirt at Washington. He was not long in taking the place left vacant by ^Ir. Webster. Besides pathos, which he could bring to bear with over- whelming effect, Choate possessed a fine humor. It is said FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO THE OLD BRICK. 83 that, coming into court one day to hear a decision against liim from Chief Justice vSlunv, who was by no means a handsome man, Choate addressed his Honor in these words : " In coming into the presence of your Honor I experience the same feeHugs that the Hindoo does when he Lows before his idol, — I know that you are ugly, but I feel that you are great." "^ ]\Ir. Choate's face possessed great mobility, and his voice was capable of the most varied modulation. When pleading a crim- inal cause he held court, jury, and auditory alike in a spell, and seldom tailed to sway the jury by his elocpience. He had the magnetism of a natural orator, and could make his auditors weep or laugh at will. Mr. Choate held the offices of State representative and senator ; was elected to Congress from the Essex district ; and succeeded Webster in the Senate in IS-il. In 1853 he was attorney-general of Massachusetts and a mem- ber of the Constitutional Convention. He retired from prac- tice in 1858, on account of fliiling health, and dmd in Halifax in 1859, while €)i route to Europe. He was sixty years old when this event occurred. AVliere now stands the stately Sears Building was once the habitation of Governor John Leverett, during whose adminis- tration occurred King Philip's war. Leverett went to England in 1644, and served under Cromwell, " From Edge-Hill Fight to Marston Moor." Charles II. made Leverett a knight, — a title Avhich he never assumed. Few names connected with the colony are more honorable than Governor Leverett's. He commanded the An- cient and Honorable Artillery ; was agent of the colony in England ; on terms of intimacy with the Protector, major-gen- eral, and dei)uty-governor. He died in 1679. Governor Lev- erett's house was afterwards in State Street, next east of the present Exchange. Before the adoption of the Federal Consti- tution the post-office was located on this corner. In the build- ing lately taken down was once the law oflic'e of John A. An- drew, a man whose memory is warmly cherished by the soldiers of Massachusetts in the Rebellion, who gave him the name of the war governor. * Bench and Bar. 84 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. On the northeast corner of Court and Washington Streets was the estate of Henry Dunster, lirst president of Harvard College. Here also stood the Town Pump, yielding its cooling fluid to our thirsty ancestors, or drenching some maudlin va- grant of the kennel. Here is Hawthorne's invocation from the Town Pump to the passers-by : — " Like a dramseller on the Mall at muster-day, I cry aloud to all and sundry, in my plainest accents, and at the very tiptop of my voice : Here it is, gentlemen ! Here is the good liquor ! Walk up, walk up, gentlemen, walk up, walk up ! Here is the superior stutf ! Here is the unadulterated ale of Father Adam, — better than Cognac, Hollands, Jamaica, strong beer, or wine of any price ; here it is by the hogshead or single glass, and not a cent to pay ! Walk up, gentlemen, walk up, and help yourselves ! " Public notices and proclamations were affixed to the Town Pump. A little south of the Sears estate is Joy's Building, around which is a vacant space now known as Cornhill Court and Court Avenue, once Cornhill Square. This is the site of the second location of the First Church of Boston, removed from State Street in 1640. In 1808 the society sold this site to Benjamin Joy, on which he erected the present structure, and the church was removed to Chauncy Street. From the church the space around it took the name of Church Square. The old meeting-house was of wood, but after standing seventy-one years, was de- stroyed by the great lire of 1711, and was then rebuilt of brick. After the building of the Second Church in Hano- ver Street this house took the name af the " Old Brick." It OLD BRICK CHURCH. FKOM THE ORANGE-TREE TO TII^ OLD BRICK. 85 was of three stories and decorated with a bell-tower and clock. This clock was, without doubt, the first placed in any i)ublic position in the town. The records show that in 1 7 1 G - 1 7 the town voted to obtain a town clock to be set up in some conven- ient place in Coridiill. Before this the bells were called clocks. Tlie bell of the Old Brick sounded the alarm on the evening of the Massacre of ISIarch 5, 1770. On the corner of State Street, nearly opposite the Old Ih-ick, was the bookstore of Daniel Henchman, and later that of Whar- ton and Bowes. In this shop Henry Knox, afterwards one of the most famous generals of the Revolutionary army, was an a])pren*tice. Here he ac(][uired, by reading, the rudiments of the military art. The store was the resort of the British officers, who were very friendly mth the future general. At eighteen Knox was lieutenant of the grenadier comj^any of the Boston liegiment, — a company distinguished for its martial appearance and the precision of its evolutions. He was one of the Avatch on board the tea ship before it was destroyed, and by his prox- imity was early at the scene of the Massacre in King Street. In Knox's account of tliis affair he said, " Captain Preston seemed much agitated. Knox took him by the coat and told him, ' for God's sake to take liis men back again, for if they fired, his life must answer for the consequences.' AVhile I was talking with Captain Preston the soldiers of his detachment had attacked the people with tlieir bayonets. There was not the least provocation given to Captain Preston or his party." Knox, after serving his time, published for himself. " A Dis- sertation on the Gout," etc., bears his imprint in 1772. After Lexington Knox escaped with his wife from Boston ; Mrs. Knox concealing within the lining of her cloak the sword he subsequently wore through the war. She acconq)anied her husband through all his canqiaigns. The Manpiis Chastellux, who visited the head(piarters of the Americjin army in 1782, says : " We found Mrs. Knox settled in a little farm where she had passed part of the campaign ; for she never quits lier hus- band. A child of six montlis and little girl of three years old formed a real family for the general. As for himself, he is be- 86 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. tween thirty and forty, very fat, but very active, and of a gay and amiable character. From the very first campaign he was intrusted with the command of the artillery, and it has turned out it could not have been placed in better hands. It was he whom M. du Coudray endeavored to supplant, and who had no difficulty in removing him. It was fortunate for M. du Cou- dray, perhaps, that he was drowned in the Schuylkill, rather than be swallowed up in the intrigues he was engaged in." Knox's corpulency was the subject of an ill-timed pun frcm Dr. Byles. An intimacy existed before the war, and when, on the day Boston was evacuated, Knox marched in at the head of his artillery, the doctor audibly remarked, " I never saw an ox fatter in my life." Knox did not relish the joke from the old tory, and told Dr. Byles he was a " fool." The graduate of the little shop in Cornhill was volunteer aid at Bunker Hill, commanded the artillery during the siege of Boston, and became Secretary of War. His greatest service, perhaps, was the bringing of more than fifty camion, mortars, and howitzers from Ticonderoga, Crown Point, etc., to the lines before Boston. This feat was accomplished early in 1776, the ordnance being dragged on sledges in midwinter almost through a wilderness. Knox was a generous, high-minded man. His portrait, by Gilbert Stuart, hangs in Faneuil Hall. A gunning accident having injured one of his hands, it is concealed in the picture. The celebrated Benjamin Thompson, a native of Woburn, afterwards a count of the German Empire, was, like Knox, an apprentice to a shopkeeper in Boston at the time of the Mas- sacre. He was at the American lines in Cambridge at the time of Bunker Hill, and accompanied Major, afterwards Governor Brooks until they met the retreating Americans. After endeav- oring unsuccessfully to obtain a commission in the Continental army, he turned loyalist. He was sent to England by General Howe after the fall of Boston, but returned to America and raised a regiment of horse, called the " King's Dragoons." After the war he was knighted, and became Sir Benjamin Thompson. The Elector of Bavaria, whose service he entered FROM THE ORANGE-TREE TO TIIi; OLD BRICK. 87 in 1784, made him a count, with the title of Count Rumford, that being the ancient name of Concord, X. H., where Tliomp- son had formerly resided. Rumford went afterwards to Paris, and married the widow of the celebrated Lavoisier, from whom, however, he afterwards separated. The Rumford Professorship at Harvard testifies to the remem- brance of this distinguished man for his native country. Ho left a munificent bequest to the College for the advancement of the physical and mathematical sciences. John AVinslow, one of Knox's compatriots, and a captain in Crane's Artillery during the Revolutionary War, was a hardware merchant with his uncle, Jonathan Mason, at Xo. 12 Corn- hill, just south of the present Globe newspaper office. He remained in Boston during the siege, and buried the Old South communion plate in liis uncle's cellar ; his uncle was deacon of that church. It was Winslow who recognized the body of Warren, the day after the battle of Bunker Hill. He was at Ticonderoga, Saratoga, and White Plains, and held a number of State offices after the war. Winslow lived in Purchase Street, just north of the Sailors' Home. 88 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTEE III. FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. Captain Keayne. — Coggan, first Shopkeeper. — Old Cornhill. — Old State House. — First Church. — Stocks and Whipping-Post. — John Wilson. — Wilson's Lane. — United States Bank. — Royal Exchange Tavern. — William Sheaffe. — Royal Custom House. — Exchange Coffee House. — " Columbian Centinel." — Benjamin Russell. — Louis Philippe. — Louis Napoleon. — Congress Street. — Governors Dummer and Belcher. — First United States Custom House. — Post-Office. — Bunch of Grapes. — General Lincoln. — General Dearborn. — First Circxilating Library. — British Coffee House. — Merchants' Row. — First Inn. — Lord Ley. — Miantonimoh. — Kilby Street. — Oliver's Dock. — Liberty Square. — The Stamp Office. — Broad Street. — Commodore Downes. — Broad Street Riot. — India Street and Wharf. — Admiral Vernon. — Crown Coffee House. — Butler's Row. — The Custom House. — Retrospective View of State Street. — Long Wharf. — The Barricado. — T Wharf. — Embarkation for Bmiker Hill. THE earliest settler on the southwestern corner of State Street was Captain Robert Keayne, who has left his name to us in connection with a legacy to build a Town House. He was also the first commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artil- lery, and was by business a tailor. Captain Keayne fell under the censure of court and church for selling his wares at exorbi- tant profits, — we have before mentioned that the authorities regulated the prices of goods, products, etc. His will, of nearly two hundred pages, is devoted largely to an efl*ort to relieve himself of this charge. What would Washington Street say to-day to such a regulation 1 The opposite or northwest corner of State Street was occu- pied by John Coggan, one of tlie names in the original Book of Possessions. He has the distinction of establishing the first shop for the sale of merchandise in Boston. From this small beginning dates the traffic of Boston. Having crossed ancient Cornhill, which name applied to that FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 89 OLD STATE HOUS£ IX 1791. part of AVasliington Street from Dock Square to Scliool Street, and in which congregated the early booksellers, we are at the head of old King Street. Before us is the earliest market-place of the town, on the space now occupied by the Old State House. King Street was changed to State in 1784, but it was frequent- ly called Congress Street before the present name was settled on. " And mark, not far from Faneuil's honored side, Where the Old State House rises in its pride. But, 0, liow cluuiged ! its halls, alas ! are tied. And shop and office fill their slighted stead." The early history of this edifice has been given in connec- tion with the City Hall, as its progenitor. Besides being used as a Town House and by the Colonial Courts, it has been occu- pied by the General Court of the Colony and of the State, by the Council of the Province, and as a barrack for troops. It was the first Exchange the merchants of Boston ever had, and is still used for a similar purpose. In it met the Convention to ratify the Constitution of the United States before adjourn- ing to Federal Street Church. In the west end was located the Post-Office, in its beginning, and again in 1838, when a force of fifteen clerks was sufficient for the transaction of its business. In 1832 it was again slightly damaged by fire. Under its shadow the Massacre was enacted by a detachment of the 29th British liegiment, the result of constant collisions between the people and the soldiery. At the time of its occu- pation by the British troops, — admitted by Governor Bernard in 17G8, — James Otis moved to have the Superior Court held in Faneuil Hall, " not only as the stench occasioned by the 90 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. troops may prove infectious, but as it was derogatory to the honor of tlie court to administer justice at the mouths of can- non and the points of bayonets." This referred to the estab- lishment of the main-guard opposite, with t\v^o field-pieces pointed toward the Old State House. The following was the interior arrangement of the building after the fire of 1747. The eastern chamber was originally occupied by the Council, afterwards by the Senate. The Eep- resentatives held their sittings in the west chamber. The floor of these was supported by pillars, and terminated at each end by doors, and at the east end by a fiight of steps leading into State Street. On the north side were offices for the clerks of the supreme and inferior courts. In the daytime the doors were kept open, and the floor served as a Avalk for the inhabi- tants who thronged it during the sessions of the courts. After the removal of the Legislature to the new State House the internal arrangement was changed to suit later occupants. In the Chamber of Eepresentatives, according to John Adams, "Independence was born" and the struggle against the en- croachments of the mother country sustained for fourteen years by the Adamses, Bowdoins, Thachers, Hancocks, Quincys, and their illustrious colleagues. According to Hutchinson, in this chamber originated the most important measures which led to the emancipation of the Colonies, — with those giants who, staking life and fortune upon the issue, adopted for their motto, " Let such, such only, tread this sacred floor, Who dare to love their country, and be poor." It was customary to read the commissions of the royal gov- ernors in presence of the court, attended by military display, ' in tlie Court House, as it was then called. The news of the death of George 11. , and accession of George III., was read from the balcony ; the latter was the last crowned head pro- claimed in the Colonies. The popular indignation against tlie Stamp Act found vent, in 176G, in T)urning stamped clearances in front of the Town House. A council of war was held by Gage, Howe, and Clin- FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTOX PIER. 91 ton, here before Bunker Hill. On tlie 25tli July, 177G, the Declaration of Independence was read from the east balcony by William Greenleaf, Sheritf. All the Continental troops in the vicinity of Boston were paraded in State Street, and at its conclusion tired thirteen volleys commemorative of the thirteen Colonies. Here the Constitution of Massachusetts was planned. In 1778 Counl D'Estaing made a splendid entry into Boston with his fleet, and was received by Governor Hancock in the Council Chamber. After the Eevolution it became the place of meeting of the Legislature, and has been ever since called the Old State House, — except during the interval Avhen it was the City Hall, — and this name is its customary appellation. In October, 1789, AVashington received the homage of the people, from a tempo- rary balcony at the west end. A triumphal arch Avas thrown across the street there, and a long procession passed before him, whose salutations he occasionally returned. In January, 1798, the Legislature took possession of the new State House. The building has undergone material alterations, especially in the roof, which gives it a more modern appearance, and the stee- ple or tower was once considerably higher than at present. The sun-dial, which formerly adorned the eastern gable, has been superseded by a clock ; the Lion and Unicorn once replaced the ornamental scrolls at either end. There have been a lottery office, engine-house, and even a newspaper published in the old building, — the latter printed in 1805, in the Senate Chamber, and called the "Repertory." After the Grand Lodge of Masons was burnt out of the Exchange Coffee House it occupied quar- ters in the Old State House. At the great fire of 1711, by which it was destroyed, several gentlemen, at imminent risk of their lives, succeeded in saving the Queen's portrait from the flames. The old First Church of Boston was situated on the ground now covered by Brazer's Building, until its removal to another location. Here preached John Wilson and John Cotton, and here came Winthrop and Bellingham, with their zealous Puri- tan followers, men 92 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. " Stern to inflict and stubborn to endure, Who smiled in death. In an old two-story wooden house which stood upon the site of Bmzer's Building were located the first United States Bank, and also the first government Post-0 Ihce. The former remained here until the erection of the building on the site of the Ex- change ; the Post-Office was removed here from Cornhill. Jonathan Armstrong was postmaster, and easily performed, from his perch on a high stool, all the duties pertaining to his office. The figure of a winged Mercury, well executed in wood by Simeon Skillin, a Xorth End carver, was placed over the door of the Post-Office in State Street. The tutelar deity was rep- resented in the act of springing from a globe. In one hand he held his emblematic rod, in the other a letter directed to the president of the Branch Bank. In front of the old meeting-house stood the whipping-post, and probably the stocks, though this latter engine has been lo- cated in front of the Old State House. In later years, the stocks and pillory were a mova- ble machine, on wheels, and had no fixed position. Both were used as a means of enforcing attendance, or punishing oftences against the church, and their served, no doubt, as a gentle ro- THE STOCKS. location at its very portal minder to the congregation. It is recorded that in the year 1753 a woman stood for an hour in the pillory near the Town House, amid the scoffs and jeers of the multitude. The Scarlet Letter is no myth ; Haw- thorne had but to turn to the criminal records of the Colony for the dramatic incidents he has related. The General Court enacted in 1G95 a law to prevent marriages of consanguinity, the declared penalty of breaking which was that the man or woman offending should be set upon the gallows for an hour, with a rope about the neck, and in the way from thence to the FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTOX PIER. 03 common jail be severely whipped. The offenders were forever to Avetir a capital letter " I," cut out of cloth of a color different from their clothes, on the arm or back, in open view. If the culprit removed the letter, he or she was to be further whipped. Xo doubt there were Hester Prynnes thus branded and scourged in State Street. Public whipping was inflicted as late as 1803, and per- sons are living who witnessed it. By order of the Supreme Judicial Court of Massachusetts, two men were placed in the pillory, in the year mentioned, in State Street. Pier- pont, the owner, and Storey, master of the brig Hannah, having procured a heavy insurance on their cargo, for a voyage to the West Indies, the vessel was sunk in Boston harbor, November 22, 1801, and a large portion of the in- surance collected. Fraud being proved, both as to the lading and loss of the brig, tlie Court decreed that Pierpont and Storey be set in the pillory in State Street two several times, one hour each time, and imprisoned two years, and pay the costs of prosecution. The sentence was duly executed, the pillory being placed near " 'Change " Avenue. The Sheriff usually performed the whip- ping by deputy. The whipping-post became a perambulating afiiiir, and at one time was stationed in "West Street. Its ac- knowledged utility appears by the Sessions Justice's famous charge, which lays down the law in somewhat starthng phrase. " Gentlemen of the grand jury : You are required by your oath to see to it, that the several towns in the county be provided accord- ing to law with. Pounds and schoolmasters, Whiijping-posts and ministers." John Wilson, first pastor of the First Cliurch, owned land on Cornhill and State Street ; the lane bearing his name, and THE PILLORY. 94 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. running through his tract, was deservedly called Crooked Lane. His dwelling was on the site of the Globe Bank, de- molished in 1873 to widen the narrow way, which still retains, however, the old minister's name. Wilson's Lane is chiefly remarkable for the number and ex- cellence of its eating-houses. This circumstance, with its old name, calls to mind Tom Hood's lines : — " I 've heard about a pleasant land, where omelets grow on trees, And roasted pigs run crying out, ' Come eat me, if you please.' My appetite is rather keen, but how shall I get there ? * Straight down the Crooked Lane, and all round the Square. ' " The Merchants' Bank succeeded to the location of the United States Branch Bank, which was in its day a building of consid- erable architectural pretension. The two columns which now support the front of the Merchants' Bank performed a like ser- vice for its predecessor, and when taken down were fluted to correspond more nearly with the plan of the new building. Observation will show that the granite is of a difl'erent color from that used in the rest of the fagade. The United States Bank building was built of Chelmsford granite, in imitation of a Grecian temple. It was at first proposed to take the site of the Old State House, but the project — happily for the existence of this old monument — was abandoned. The struc- ture was erected in 1824 ; Solomon Willard was the architect; Gridley Bryant, master-mason. The columns referred to were brought from Chelmsford on ponderous trucks built for the pur- pose. On account of their great weight the proprietors of the bridges refused to permit the passage of the teams, and they were accordingly brought over the Neck. The moving of such unwieldy masses of granite — a marvel when it was first attempted — was eclipsed by the transporting of the columns for the Court House and Custom House. The pediment was a favorite resort for pigeons, which becom- ing somewhat troublesome, by order of Gardiner Greene, the president, a wooden cat was placed on the accustomed perch of the feathered visitors. They were at first a little shy, but soon ceased to have any fear of the sham grimalkin. It was then FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 95 removed to tlie directors' room, and presided for a long time over the deliberations of the board. The United States Bank was established in 1791, and the charter expired in 1812, but was revived in 181 G, and finally dissolved in 1836. The bank originated in the want of money to carry on the government. The directors were appointed by the parent bank at - Philadelphia, and the div- ^0; %^, idends which the bank de- clared were made up from the business of all the branches. Under the cliar- ter of 1816 the capital was thirty-five millions, of which the government owned seven. The at- tempt to permanently es- tablish a bank under gov- ernment control, like the Bank of England, proved a failure, as is well known. The removal of the deposits by Gen- eral Jackson affected the Boston branch but little, but it brought to light a defaulting official. The receiving teller, whose name was John Fuller, finding discovery inevitable, put forty thousand dollars into his pocket one afternoon and absconded. In 1836 Congress revived the charter, but Jackson vetoed it. A bank under the old title, established by the State of Pennsylvania, went into operation in the latter year, and continued until 1841. The old United States Bank was erected on the site of the Exchange, in 1798, and bore on its front an American eagle, with its wings outstretched, as if in the act of swooping upon the bulls and bears of the street. On the expiration of the charter the State Bank purchased the building, and the eagle was afterwards removed to Faneuil Hall, where it is one of the curiosities to be seen there. It is made of clay baked in an oven at the South End ; and the fractured edges cliii)ped away by relic-hunters have the appearance of broken pottery or tile. UNITED STATES BANK. 96 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Formerly the proud bird of Jove, and emblem of our republic, was in the centre of the hall, guarded by an iron railing. The iron gates of the old bank now guard the entrance to the Cem- etery on Washington Street, near the St. James Hotel ; a rather singular transition from the shrine of Manmion to the abode of death. Thomas Eussell was the first President in 1792, and Peter Roe Dalton, Cashier. The next location of the United States Bank was in Congress Street, on the west side, and not far from State Street. " — Wliere 's the jolly host You told me of ? 'T has been my custom ever To parley with mme host." The Royal Exchange Tavern was on the southwest corner of Exchange and State Streets, and gave the name of Royal Ex- change Lane to that tlioroughfare. Shrimpton's Lane was an earlier name. This tavern certainly dates back to 1727, and was then kept by Luke Yardy. At the time of the Massacre one Stone was the landlord. It was a resort for the officers of the British army before the Revolution. At the beginning of the present century it was kept by Israel Hatch, and was a reg- ular stopping-place for the Providence stages. The rencontre between Henry Phillips and Benjamin Wood- bridge, which ended in a duel on the Common, had its begin- ning in this house. After the fire of December, 1747, which destroyed the Town House, the General Court was held at Yardy's for the few remaining days of the session. The Royal Exchange was also a favorite hostelry of the Masons, Yardy being of the fraternity. At a Masonic procession on St. John's day Joseph Green notices the jolly landlord thus : — " Wliere 's honest Luke ? that cook from London ; For without Luke, the Lodge is undone. 'T was he who oft dispell'd their sadness, And fdled the Brethren's hearts with gladness. Luke in return is made a brother, As good and true as any other, And still, though broke with age and wine, Preserves the token and the sign," The Royal Custom House, at the time of the Massacre, was FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 97 on the southeast corner of Exchange and State Streets. Joseph Harrison was Collector, and AVilliam Sheaffe Deputy. With the sentinel on duty at this point began tlie affray in State Street. The sentinel, abused, beaten, and likely to be overpowered, loaded his piece and shouted for assistance to the post of the main-guard, wliich was opposite the south door of the Town House. The deplorable results which followed are familiar. The old Custom House had a balcony, from which shots were fired at the populace during the Massacre. This circumstance, elicited during the investigation into the affair by the town authorities, did not tend to improve the re- lations between the people and the obnoxious officers of the customs. The town desired these officials to be present during the investigation and use the privilege of questioning the wit- nesses. Sheaffe, however, was the only one who attended. He had been a long time connected with the Custom House ; as deputy under Sir Henry Frankland, and as his successor when Sir Henry was removed for inattention to his duties. Sheaffe issued the famous AVrits of Assistance. He was the father of the celebrated Sir Eoger Hale Sheaffe, and a devoted loyal- ist. Sheaffe lived in the vicinity of Scollay Square in Court Street. He had some pretty daughters, of whom Sabine, in liis " Loyalists," says : — " Susanna, Mr. Sheaffe's oldest daughter, married Captain Ponson- by Mulesworth, a nephew of Lord Ponsonby. " The family account is, that on the day of the landing of a regi- ment of British troops in Boston, a halt was made in Queen (Court) Street opposite Mr. Sheaffe's house ; that Susanna, attracted by the music and the redcoats, went upon the balcony ; that I\Iolesworth soon saw her, was struck by her great beauty, gazed intently upon her, and at last said to a brother officer, who, like himself, was lean- ing against a fence, ' That gu-1 seals my fate.' " Margaret, another daughter of Mr. Sheaffe, was remarkable for her beauty ; so handsome, according to tradition, " no one could take her picture." Previous to her marriage, Lafayette, who admired her, said to her lover, " Were I not a married man, I 'd try to cut you out." 5 G 98 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. At the time of the Massacre the Custom House was in a building used as a dwelling by Bartholomew Green and family. King Street was then full of dwellings, the occupants using the lower floor for their business. This Green, a printer by profession, had, according to Thomas, the peculiar faculty of recognizing at sight any vessel belonging to the port of Boston. Perpetually on the watch, as soon as a vessel could be discovered with a S23y-glass he knew its name, and gave information to the owner. He had some small office in the Custom House at one time. He who stood on the balcony of the Old State House in 1770 might count five taverns of repute in King Street. The Bunch of Grapes was the best punch-house, but Yardy's, the nearest, was probably most frequented by the barristers and officers of the court. ■^*=^^^^u,^ EXCHANGE COFFEE HOI From our stand-point, at the lower end of the Old State House, Devonshire Street opens at our right hand. The Pud- ding Lane of yore is suggestive of good living. Accordingly we find the well-remembered Exchange Coff'ee-House was situ- ated in Congress Square, once known by the singular title of Half-Square Court. The name of this house owes its origin to the fact that the principal floor was intended to be used by the FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON TIER. 99 merchants as an Exchange. It was a mammoth affixir of seven stories, far in advance of the wants of its day, and was com- pleted in 1808, having occupied two years and a half in build- ing ; it cost half a million. An unsuccessful speculation, it was the means of ruining many of the mechanics who were em- ployed in building it. Destroyed by fire November 3, 1818, it was rebuilt in a less expensive manner, and occupied as a tavern until 1853, when it was demolished, giving place to the build- ings known as the " City Exchange." The front of the Coffee House, on Congress Street, was orna- mented Avith six marble Ionic pilasters, and crowned with a Corinthian pediment. It had entrances on the State Street side and from Devonshire Street. The building was of an ir- regular shape, rather like a triangle with the apex cut off, and contained about two hundred and ten apartments. It was in the very centre of business, and was a stopping-place for stages going or returning from town. A number of Masonic Lodges occupied "the upper stories. Captain Hull made the Exchange his quarters when he was in port during the war of 1812. At the rooms of the Exchange was kei)t a register of marine news, arrivals, departures, etc. When Hull arrived in Boston after his fortunate escape from the British fleet in July, 1812, he wrote with his own hand in tills book the following : — " Whatever merit may be due for the escape of the Constitution from the British fleet, belongs to my first officer, Charles ]\lori'is, Esq. " Isaac Hull." On his arrival, after the memorable action with the Guerriere, Hull was the recipient of flattering attentions from the merchants, and indeed the whole population vied to do him honor. HuU, with straightforward manliness, wrote on the journal of the Coffee House a well-deserved triljute to the services of this same Lieutenant, afterwards Commodore Morris, who was severely wounded in the fight. D acres, who became Hull's prisoner after this engagement, lodged at the Exchange. Of him it is related, that when he went up the side of the Constitution, after leaving his own 100 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ship, Hull, eager to soothe the feelings of his gallant adversary, stepped forward, offered his hand, and said, " Dacres, my dear fellow, I am glad to see you ! " The reply of the discomfited Briton was, " D — n it, I suppose you are." The twain became afterwards firm friends. President Monroe visited Boston in July, 1817. He took apartments at the Exchange Coffee House. On the 4th a sumptuous dinner was served, at which the following guests were present. It would be hard to find a more distinguished company. General Swift, Superintendent of West Point Acad- emy, presided, assisted by Commodore Perry and Mr. Mason. The other guests were ex-President John Adams, Governor Brooks, Lieutenant-Governor Phillips, General H. Dearborn, President Kirkland, Chief Justice Parker, Judges Story, Jack- son, Davis, and Adams, Generals Cobb and Humphreys of the old army, Hon. Messrs. Pickering and Pales, Commodores Bainbridge and HuU, and other naval officers. The President returned the visit of the venerable John Adams, and the two walked, arm in arm, over the farm at Quincy, like any two plain country gentlemen. The fire which consumed the Coffee House was destructive. The keeper, Mr. Barnum, lost $ 25,000. Eleven printing-offices, the Grand Lodge of the State, and several other Masonic Lodges were burned out. Where the Traveller building stands was once the printing- office of the "Columbian Centinel," established in 1784. It Avas then the size of a sheet of commercial post writing-paper, and published semi- weekly. Benjamin Eussell was the editor, a name well known in the annals of Boston journalism. Eus- sell was an apprentice to Isaiah Thomas of the celebrated Worcester Spy. Thomas had the ill luck to be drafted in 1 780, and young Eussell volunteered in his place. During his ser- vice he witnessed the execution of Andre, at Tappan, as one of the guards. Eussell published the Centinel until 1824. When the Due de Chartres, afterwards Louis PhiUppe, was in Boston, an exile from his native country, he was in the habit of visiting the Centinel office to obtain the news from abroad, FltOM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 101 anil, it is said, occasionally wrote articles for the paper. The Centinel was, at this time, distinguished for the accuracy of its information in regard to the "war then waging between re[)ub- lican France and combined Europe. An atlas wliicli had be- longed to Louis enabled the editor to describe the topography of tlie battle-fields minutely, and thus surpass his contempo- raries. Louis Xapoleon, late Emperor of the French, Avas, if report speaks true, at a later day, an habitue of the Centinel office. Thus the representatives of two opposing dynasties have eagerly scanned the columns of the same republican newspaper for intelligence that was to make or mar their fortunes. Tlie Centinel was the leading Federalist organ of New England, and was ably conducted. Next is Congress Street, named for the National Legislature. The founders of Boston called it Leverett's Lane, from Elder Thomas Leverett, who owned the tract through which it passes. It was subsequently Quaker Lane, from the old Quaker jVIeet- ing-house situated therein. Congress Street, at its junction with State, was once only eleven feet wide ; and Exchange, even now scarcely deserving the name of street, was once as narrow as Wilson's Lane, but was widened through its entire length. The lower part of State, where it meets Long Wharf, was also widened, — a proceeding so repugnant to one of the proprietors, that he took his gun and threatened to shoot any one that attempted to remove his building. It was effected, however, without bloodshed. The Exchange is built upon ground which, in the olden time, belonged to Elder Thomas Leverett, who emigrated from Boston, England, where he had been an alderman, and a parisliioner of Eev. John Cotton. He was a man of property and distinction in the province. His more distinguished son, afterwards gov- ernor, became the owner of this i)roperty, which he parted with in 1G5G. It became afterwards two estates, each having a pro- prietor of consequence. Andrew Belcher, one of the most wealthy merchants of Bos- ton, and a contemporary with old Andre Faneuil, lived, in 1691, in the westerly part of tliis estate, which is described as " front- 102 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ing on tlie Broad Street near the Exchange." This was before they had found a name for the street. Belcher's house was of brick. He also owned two brick warehouses, " the one bigger and the other less," lying near the Town Dock ; an estate at the south corner of Washington and Bedford Streets, one in Wing's Lane, and other valuable property. He had been one of the Pro- idncial Council, and was a representative in 1698 and 1701. Jonathan Belcher, afterwards governor of "the Massachu- setts," was in his tenth year when Andrew, his father, came from Charlestown to live in Boston. While in Europe, the Bostonian was presented at court, and made so favorable an impression on George I. that the King appointed him governor in 1730. The year previous he had gone again to England as agent for the colony, — a position he had not obtained very creditably, accord- ing to Hutchinson. Governor Belcher became very unpopular, and was superseded, in 1741, by Governor Shirley; but was afterwards appointed governor of New Jersey. Shaw says Governor Belcher's house was after the model of Julien's, which is represented in another place ; he adds that it was standing a few years before he wrote, in 1817. Mr. Belcher was a very opulent merchant. His residence was in Orange Street, now Washington, in 1732. He was one of the foremost in organiz- ing tlie Hollis Street Church, and gave the Society land to build it upon. During his administration occurred the great religious revival, caused by the visit of Whitefield, and Faneuil Hall Market was built. Governor Belcher's son, Jx)nathan, of Bos- ton, became lieutenant-governor of Nova Scotia. He was an able jurist, and had been also Chief Justice of that province. Governor Leverett sold a part of his estate, next east of Governor Belcher's, to Jeremiah Dummer, goldsmith, in 1677. This Jeremiah, father of two distinguished sons, was himself a conspicuous man in the affairs of the town, and a deacon of the First Church. Wilham Dummer, the elder son, lieutenant-governor of the colony from 1716 to 1729, was a captain in the Ancient and Honorable Artillery in 1719. He was acting chief-magistrate during a great part of his term, the governor, Samuel Shute, FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON TIER. 103 being absent from his post. The principal events of Governor Dummer's term were the establishment of a linen manufactory in the town, and the introduction of inoculation for the small- pox, during one of its periodical visits, by Dr. Boylston. This terrible distemper, whicli had scourged Boston Avitli great vio- lence at different times, was arrested by this simple expedient, whicli the AVestern world owes to the efforts of a woman. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu accompanied her husband to the Porte, where he was ambassador, in 1716. AVhile there she witnessed the custom among the Turks of engrafting for the small-pox. She at once devoted her extraordinary epistolary powers to procure the introduction of this great boon into Eng- land, and, by great exertions, happily succeeded. Franklin's paper was established while Dummer was acting-governor. Governor Dummer pro\dded in liis will for the manumission and care of his three negroes. He attended Hollis Street Church, living close at hand at the time. Jeremiah Dummer, the younger, was born in the old home- stead in State Street. He graduated at Harvard in 1699, and studied at the University of Utrecht, where he took a degree. A polished scholar and writer, he is known in pubhc life as the Massachusetts Agent in England, 1710-21. He published an elotpient defence of the New England charters when they were threatened in the latter year. In a building adjoining the west side of the Exchange was the first United States Custom House ; General Benjamin Lincoln was the first collector, and retained the position until 1808. He occupied part of the house for a dwelling. A distinguished lievolutionary soldier. General Lincoln fought from the lakes to Savannah. He was with Gates at Saratoga as second in command, and with D'Estaing in the assault on Savannah. The fortune of Avar made him a prisoner to Sir H. Clinton in May, 1780, with the garrison of Charles- ton. Again, at Yorktown, he had the satisfaction of seeing the army of Cornwallis lay down their arms. In Shays' Eebel- lion of '87 Lincoln commanded the State forces ; he was also heutenant-governor in this year. General Lincoln's portrait, 104 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. by F. A. Durivage, — copied from Sargent's picture in the Historical Society's Collection — is in the collector's room at the Custom House. The Merchants' Exchange, now the Sub-Treasury and Post- Office, is one of the most imposing edifices in State Street. It was erected in 1842, and covers ground on which stood the United States Branch, and afterwards the State Bank. The first action in regard to a post-office appears to have been an order of the General Court, November 5, 1639, as follows : — " For the preventing the miscarriage of letters, it is ordered, that notice bee given, that Richard Fairbanks, his house in Boston, is the place appointed for all letters, which are brought from beyond seas, or to be sent thither ; are to be brought unto him, and he is to take care that they bee delivered or sent according to their directions ; provided that no man shall be compelled to bring his letters thither except hee please." Somewhat later it seems to have become the custom to bring letters to the Exchange, in the Town Hall, to run the hazard of being forwarded by visitors ; but this proved so precarious a method that the Council, in 1677-78, appointed John Hayward Postmaster for the whole colony. John Campbell, publisher of the News-Letter, was Postmaster about 1704. In 1711 the Post-Office was in Old Cornhill, and, when the great fire occurred in October of that year was removed to the south side of Milk Street, opposite Eev. Mr. Pemberton's. It was removed back to Cornhill soon after this. AVilliam Brooker was Postmaster in 1719. In 1754 the Post-Office was in Corn- hiU, at the house of James Franklin, Postmaster ; in 1770 it was still in Cornhill, between King Street and Dock Square ; Tut- hill Hubbard was Postmaster in 1771. Between this date and 1788 it occupied the corner of Court and Washington Streets (Sears Building), and in the latter year was removed to 44 Cornhill, where New Cornhill now enters Washington Street. Post-routes were first established in 1711, to Maine and Plymouth once a week, and to Ncav York once a fortnight. In 1829 the Post-Office was located on the corner of Con- gress and Water Streets, and employed eight clerks ; and FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON TIER. 105 in 1838 ill the Old State House, as related. It Avill soon seek another situation in Water Street, where a splendid editice is being erected, President Grant having assisted at the laying of the corner-stone. The Bunch of Grapes Tavern was on the corner of Kilby Street (formerly Mackerel Lane) and State. The iN'ew Eng- land Bank replaces the inn. This tavern existed as early as 1712, and was then kept by Francis Hobnes; in 1731-33 it was kept by William Coffin ; Joshua Barker kept it in 1 749 ; and Colonel Joseph Ingersoll from 1764 to 1772. Captain John IMarston was landlord in 1777-78, AViUiam Foster in 1782, and James Vila, who removed the same year to Concert HaU, in 1789. The sign of this hostelry was three clusters of grapes. AATien the building was torn down to give place to the bank, the bunches of gTapes were removed to the Commercial Coffee House, in ]\Iilk Street, which was, in its turn, removed, and two of the bunches now grace the front of a liquor store in Xorth Market Street.'^ Few of the ancient inns have had more notable guests than this. As long ago as 1728 Governor Burnet found a hospitable reception on liis arrival in Boston. In 1776, after the reading of the Declaration of Independence, the Lion and Unicorn from the Town House, Court House, Custom House, and all other British emblems that could be found, were collected in front of this hostelry and made a bonfire of. Allien Lafliyette arrived in Boston in October, 1784, he alighted at the Bunch of Grapes. The Society of the Cincinnati held their meetings here in 1787, and heard orations in the " Old Brick." Becrossing the street, we find that the Custom House was, in 1810, situated on the lower corner of Change Avenue, former- ly Pierce's, and afterwards Flagg Alley. General Henry Dear- born, of Kevolutionary fiime, succeeded the venerable General Lincoln as Collector in 1809, the latter having resigned on ac- count of the Embargo. It is said that General Lincoln wrote to President Madison, "that he had fouglit for the liberties of * E. Paige & Co.'s, 43 and 44 North Market Street. 5* 106 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. his country, and spent his best years in her service ; and that he was not, in his old age, to be made an instrument to violate what he had assisted to acquire." * General Dearborn continued to be Collector until appointed by Madison Senior Major-General, and ordered to the Canada frontier in 1812. His long and glorious career of public service extended from Bunker Hill, in 1775, to the capture of York, in 1813. At the latter j^lace, now Toronto, was captured the royal standard of England, the only one that ever fell into our hands. This trophy is in the naval museum at Annapolis. By the in- trigues of his enemies the veteran was displaced from liis com- mand, but was refused the court of inquiry he solicited. He Avas minister to Portugal in 1822. General Dearborn lived in what was afterwards the Sun Tavern, on Batterymarch Street, more recently occupied by a Glass Company. He married James Bowdoin's widow, and was a man of very imposing presence. H. A. S. Dearborn, son of the old warrior, succeeded to the coUectorship. The younger General Dearborn held a number of offices, and is known as an author of several historical works. At the time of the Dorr Eebellion in Ehode Island he was Ad- jutant-General of IMassachusetts, and was removed for loaning the State arms to supjDress that affair. When the Custom House was located on the north side of State Street, the front was ornamented with two figures carved in wood ; one representing Hope leaning on the traditional anchor, the other Justice holding the scales aloft. These me- morials are now preserved in the insurance office occupying the same site. In 1810 the building in Custom House Street was completed, and occupied in December of that year, but was soon found too contracted for the government business. The United States Custom House had, for short periods, locations in Merchants' Row, on' the northeast corner of Corn Court, and in Half-Court Square, now Congress Square. The tablet in the building in Custom House Street is from the old Custom House. On this site was established, in 17G4, the first circulating * Miss Quincy's Memoir, FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 107 library in Boston, by Jolm ]\Iein, the most extensive bookseller of the day. His place was called the London Bookstore, and his stock contained, according to his advertisement, ten thousand volumes. Thomas says Mein came from Glasgow, in 17G4, with Eobert Sandeman. His shop was first on the north corner of what is now Franklin and Washington Streets, where, in addition to books, he sold Irish linens, etc. The firm at this time was Mein and Sandeman. John j\Iein is also associated with early printing in Boston, having been connected with John Fleming, in 1767, in the publication of the Boston Chronicle, the first semi-weekly in Kew England. The paper fell under the ban of popular censure, and was suspended in 1770, it having espoused the cause of the mother country. Mein was exhibited in effigy on Pope Day, 1769, and in the unique and horrible pageant was carried a lantern with this acrostic : — *' Mean is the man, M — n is his name, Enough he 's spread his hellish fame ; Infernal Furies hurl his soul, Nine million times from Pole to Pole." * Mein was afterwards the subject of a personal attack, and took refuge with the soldiery, making a final escape from the profane poetry and hard blows of the wrathful " Bostoneers " soon after, to England. As we are now among the Insurance Offices, it becomes ap- propriate to state that the first in the town was established by Joseph Marion, in 1724. His office was called "The Sun Fire Office in Boston," and was located near the site of the Globe Bank, 22 State Street. Where the beautiful marble building numbered 66 now stands was the British Coffee House, an inn kept by ^Ir. Bal- lard in 1762. It was of some prominence, and di\dded with its neighbors the patronage of the military and civilians. The repeal of the Stamp Act was celebrated here, and at the Bunch of Grapes in March, 1767. It was also the scene of the un- 108 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. fortunate collision between James Otis and John Eobinson, one of the Customs Commissioners referred to in connection with Otis's residence. Otis went to the Coffee House alone, by ap- pointment, and was immediately attacked by Eobinson and Ms friends. A young man who went to the assistance of Otis was roughly handled and j)ut out of the house. The house seems to have been preferred by British officers ; for we find one of them, Surgeon Bolton, delivering a harangue from the balcony, ridiculing the orations of Warren and Han- cock, and abusive of the Whig patriots, while the main-guard, paraded in front, furnished an audience. Under the new regime this tavern was styled the American Coffee House. It became a place of public vendue, in 1786, by a firm who sold books in the chamber and jackasses in the street. The Massachusetts Bank long occupied its site. Merchants' Eow seems to have retained its original designa- tion, being thus described in 1708. Andrew Faneuil's ware- house Avas on the lower corner in 1732. This was then the lower end of King Street. The Eow followed an irregidar, serpentine course to the wharf on the southerly side of the Town Dock. On the west side of Merchants' Eow, about midway from State Street to Faneuil Hall, was the first house of entertain- ment in Boston. It was kept by Samuel Cole in 1634. Gov- ernor Vane, in 1636, invited Miantonimoh, the ^N'arragansett chief, to Boston, and the sachem repaired thither with a con- siderable retinue. The attendants of the chieftain were dined at Mr. Cole's, doubtless Avith many a grunt of satisfaction, for their landlord bore a good name, as we shall learn, from high authority. In what manner Cole fed liis score of painted iS^ar- ragansetts does not transpire. It must have vexed the spirit of the jolly Boniface full sore to know how to place liis guests at table. They did not know the use of chairs, so he may have seated them, according to their custom, in a circle on the floor, with his iron pot of meat in the centre, into which each might plunge his hand until satisfied. However, Indians were no uncommon sight in the town in those days. FROM THE OLD STxVTE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 109 Lord Ley, Earl of Marlborough, who was killed in a naval engagement with the Dutch in 1GG5, visited Boston in 1G37. He lodged at Cole's inn, and when urged by Governor Wintlirop to jiartake of his hospitality declined, saying that the house where he was was so well governed, he could be as private there as elsewhere. Lord Ley accompanied Sir Harry Yane back to England. His lordship's reply w^as not, it is said, rel- ished by the governor, who considered himself slighted and his hospitality and position neglected. Kilby Street, Avhich once boasted the euphonious name of Mackerel Lane, extended first only from State Street to what is Liberty Square, the jDortion beyond being known as Adams Street until 1825. ^Mackerel Lane was very narrow until the great fire of 1760, and crossed the creek in Liberty Square by a bridge at the foot of Water Street. On the map of 1722 wharves line the east side of Kilby Street, and until about 1800 Oliver's Dock came up to this street. Broad and India Streets had no existence until 1808-09. Oliver's Dock was originally marsh, and through Liberty Square a creek ran up as far west as Spring Lane. This was Governor Winthrop's marsh, and the head of this cove was in the vicinity of the spring mentioned in the Introduction. Shaw states that " The greater part of Congress Street is made land. An aged gentle- man, who lived near the spot, says that when the foundation of Joy's Buildings (corner of Congress and Water) was preparing, the re- mains of the hull of an old vessel, or large boat, with fragments of canvass and tarred rope, were dug up ; which shows the place had been once used as a graving-yard, or some similar purpose. From a view of the ground, there is reason to believe that the greater part of Congress Street, the whole of Kilby Street and Liberty Square, are built on flats, once covered by salt Avater." In noticing the great storm and tide in 1723 the WTitcr says, — " We could sail in boats from the southern battery (Howe's "UTiarf ) to the rise of ground in King Street." In very high tides the water has flowed up to the corner of 110 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. State Street and Merchants' Eow. Sound logs have been dug up at the bottom of this street, which, from the a^jpearance of knots and branches, were supposed to have been feUed near at hand. Ohver's Dock, so named from Peter Ohver, is noted as the scene of an episode of the Stamp Act riots of 1765. A build- ing newly erected on the northeast corner of Kilby Street and Liberty Square was supposed by the people to be intended for a stamp office, and was torn down and tlirown into the dock. Liberty Square derives its name from this circumstance. It was so named at the Civic Feast in honor of the French Eevolution January 24, 1793, when a liberty-pole sixty feet in length, surmounted by the horns of the ox that had been roasted on Copp's Hill for the feast, was raised, and a salute of fifteen guns fired. The procession, after passing through the principal streets, pausing at Liberty Stump (where Liberty Tree had stood), and at the residences of " Citizens " Hancock and Adams, as they were then styled, then governor and lieu- tenant-governor, halted in State Street, where tables were laid from the Old State House to near Kilby Street. The roasted ox was there dispatched by the crowd amid a scene of con- fusion. In the afternoon an entertainment was provided at Faneuil Hall at which Samuel Adams presided. " Liberty and Equality " were toasted and sung, but as the bloody char- acter of the French Revolution became manifest in the execu- tion of Louis XVI., which had occurred tliree days before, the Civic Feast was not repeated. The first directory published in Boston was printed by Jolin i^orman, at Oliver's Dock, in 1789. It contained 1,473 names. The directory of 1872 contains 102,117 names. Broad Street next invites attention. It was built, in 1808, by that great public benefactor, Uriah Cotting, whose improve- ment of Cornhill is already noticed. Until this street was laid out Batterymarch marked the water-line to its junction with Kilby Street. Broad Street was at first occupied for business, but the subsequent building of India Street rendered it una- vailable for this purpose, and it became the headquarters of a FEOM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. Ill respectable class of residents ; these were ousted in their turn by the Irish, who swarmed to this country in great numbers after the war of 1812. Among the early residents of Broad Street we find Lieutenant, afterwards Commodore John Downes, who served with distinction in the navy. He was in the attack on Tripoli under Preble, and with Davitl Porter in the Pacihc, where, in command of the Essex Junior, — to use the lan- guage of a contemporary, — "he played the devil among the whalers." Broad Street was, in June, 1837, the scene of a riot between the firemen and Irish. The affair grew out of an attempt of the firemen, while proceeding to a fire, to pass through the ranks of an Irish funeral cortege. This was resented, and led to a regular Donnybrook scrimmage, resulting in many broken heads, but no loss of life. Military force was used to put down the riot, which assumed serious proportions, but no poAvder was burned. The affray led to the disbandment of the whole fii'e department. India Street, flanked by India and Central Wharves, was built, the year after Broad Street, by j\Ir. Cotting. About mid- way of Central Wharf was formerly an arched passage-way, which presented the singular feature of a building supported by it, but having no land belonging to it, — to use a military j^thrase, it was in the air. There were formerly a number of these arches, — not the least among the curious objects to be seen in Boston, — and several are yet existing. Two other taverns remain to be noticed, of wliich the first is the Admiral Yernon. The name was from Edward Vernon, the admiral, who was known while he lived under the sobriquet of Old Grog. In bad weather he was in the habit of walking the deck in a rough grogram cloak, and thence had obtained the nickname. Whilst in command of the West India Station, and at the height of his popularity on account of his reduction of Porto Bello with six men-of-war, he introduced the use of rum and water by the ship's company.* The Admiral Vernon was on the lower corner of State Street and Merchants* Row, * Notes and Queries. 112 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. and was kept by Eicliard Smith about 1743, and in 1775 by Mary Bean. The first house on Long Wharf was the Crown Coffee House, noticed in 1718. It was kept by Widow Anna Swords in 1 749, being then owned by Governor Belcher, while Governor William Dummer owned the next estate easterly. Eichard Smith, of the Admiral Vernon, kept it in 1749, and Eobert Shelcock in 1751. It was, like the Admiral Yernon, a water-side resort, but is not known to possess any associations of marked interest. It stood where the building now is, having a westerly front on State Street, but the street has been widened here. Like the other inns, it was used as a dwelling by the proprietors. Peter Faneuil's warehouse was, in 1742 - 43 (the year of his death), below the Admiral Vernon, from which he carried on his largo business with the West Indies and Europe. Peter was not averse to a little sharp practice upon the King's revenue, for we find an extract of one of his letters which requests ad- vice, — " also what good French brand i/ is ivorth, and if it he possible to cloak it so as to ship it for riim" "^ Otherwise, Peter seems to have placed a high estimate upon his commercial honor, and his charities were numerous and open-handed. If you enter the little passage-way just below jMerchants' Eow, you will find a range of brick buildings, bounded north by Chatham Street and south by the passage-way. This is But- ler's Eow, and you may yet see the name cut in stone on the southeast corner of the block. Peter Butler, an old proprietor, had a warehouse and wharf here. Andrew, Peter, and Benjamin Faneuil all had warehouses on, or bounding upon, Butler's Eow. These were all merchants of high standing, which marks the locality as one of importance to the mercantile class. Seventy years ago the space between Batterymarch and State Streets was occupied by a ship-yard and wharves. Where the old Custom House stands, on Custom House Street, large ves- sels have been built and launched. The massive proportions of the new Custom House, which contains about the same number of cubic feet of stone as Bunker * Dealings wdth the Dead. FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 113 Hill ]\Ionument, stand on a foundation recovered from the sea. Begun in 1837, it took three years to make a secure foundation. The building is cruciform, of the Grecian Doric order, and has the pecuHarity that the roof is covered with granite tiles, ren- dering it completely fire-proof. Its position is not conspicuous, but it is one of the noticeable public edifices in Boston. It was completed in 1849, at a cost of over a million. A. B. Young, M. A., was the architect. We may now take a retrospective \4ew of State Street. It is the busy mart and exchange of the city, sacred to the worship of Mammon. Bills, stocks, and bonds are its literature, and in its vaults are fifty millions of doUars. Here Shy lock meets Antonio, and daily takes his pound of flesh. It is our Eialto, our Bourse, our Royal Exchange. But time was when Perez Morton dwelt where the Union Bank's strong cofi^ers are, and John Coburn took gentlemen boarders just below the Post- Office, — this, too, within the present century. Since Boston was, State Street has been a favorite theatre of military displays, — the train-bands of the hard-visaged Puri- tans, the solid tramp of the newly arrived British soldiery in 1768, and of the reinforcements in 1774. Tlirough State Street marched the 5th and 38th to embark for Bunker Hill, and the tread of Rochambeau's gallant Frenchmen has Avakened the echoes of the old street. Since those more stirring scenes it has been the custom and delight of the citizen soldiery to " march up State Street." The bayonets of many a gallant regiment have glittered in the sunlight here, ere they marched to the front in the late civil war. Here, too. Burns, a poor fugitive was conducted by the whole police and military force of the city to the ship which took him back to slavery. But we have changed all that. The fire of 1711 left its mark in State Street, destroying all the upper part, the Town House, and the Old Meeting House. An attempt was made to save the bell of the latter, and several sailors ascended the cupola for that purpose ; but the flames cut off their retreat, and they perished in the falling ruins. In 1747 the Town House was again destroyed. In the great fire of H 114 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. 1760 the street was again scourged by the devouring element, scarcely a building being left in the part below Kilby Street. State Street was also the scene of a fatal affray in August, 1806, between Charles Austin and Thomas Oliver Selfridge, in which the former was killed. This affair made a great noise, and the day was long remembered as " Bloody Monday." James Sullivan was then Attorney-General, while the defence of Self- ridge was conducted by Samuel Dexter and Christopher Gore. The origin of the difficulty was political feud ; but, according to ]\Ir. Sargent, the immediate cause was a dispute between other parties, about seven roast pigs and ten bushels of green peas. Austin was killed between the Old State House and the Traveller Office. Long AVharf and State Street are so firmly united that they may be considered one to all intents and purposes. Before the wharf was built the lower part of State Street terminated at the Governor's Dock. The subject of building a wharf at the bottom of King Street was mooted, as early as 1707, by Oliver Noyes and others. In 1709- 10 the town voted to accept the proposals of Noyes and his associates to build a wharf, with a sufficient common sewer, from Andrew raneuil's corner to low- water mark, to be of the width of King Street. As originally projected, the wharf was to have a public way on one of its sides, thirty feet wide, for the use of the inhabitants and others forever. At about the middle a gap, sixteen feet wide, was to be left for the passage of boats ; the end was to be left free for the town to plant guns on, if occasion required. The name of the wharf was, first, Boston Pier. M. TAbbe Eobin describes the pier as "a superb wharf, advancing nearly two thousand feet into the sea, wide enough along its whole length for stores and shops." On the map of 1722 there appears almost a continuous row of buildings on the north side; on Price's plan of 1743 the end of the wharf is fortified. The "T" of Long Wharf, formerly known as Minott's T (from Stephen Minott), is a part of the ancient structure known as the Barricado, or Old Wharf, which was a line of defence connecting Scarlett's Wharf, at the foot of Copp's Hill, with the FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 115 South Battery at the foot of Fort Hill. It enclosed the Town Cove, in which the shipping lay. The Barricado extended in straight lines from the wharf to the terminal points, making an angle at the junction with Long Wharf, ^vith the point towards the town. It was built of wood, and had openings on each side of Long Wharf for vessels to pass through. Apprehensions of invasion from the Dutch or French caused its construction. Atlantic Avenue now follows, substantially, the line of the Barricado. It crossed Long Wharf on the neck of the T, and two little islands to the north and south of the wharf furnished points of appui. Central Wharf was laid out over one of these islands, and large trees and stones, which had been used in building the Barricado, were found when excavations were making for the wharf. The other island was removed. The Old Wharf, being for defence only, was only wide enough to M^ork guns upon. It fell into gradual decay, and the last ves- tiges disappeared long ago. " T " Wharf, which name has sometimes erroneously been connected with the Tea Party, has always been noted for an excellent old well of water, from which ships were supplied. Minott and Andrew Faneuil owned it in 1718. When, in November, 1745, after that extraordinary and successful expedition, which resulted in the reduction of Louis- burg, Governor Shirley returned home in the Massachusetts Frigate, a splendid reception awaited him. He first landed at the " Castle," where he passed the night, coming up to Boston in the morning in the Castle barge. About noon he landed, with his retinue, at Long Wharf, under salutes from all the shipping in the port and the acclamations of the people. Here they were received by the dignitaries of the province and iovm., and by Colonel Wendell's regiment of militia, a Chelsea com- pany, the Troop of Guards, and another Troop of Horse, with the Cadets under Colonel Benjamin Pollard. The ringing of bells, illuminations, and fireworks prolonged tlie joyful occasion. General Thomas Gage landed at Long Wharf in May, 1774, and was received by the Troop of Guards, a regiment of militia, and the Cadets, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel 116 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Coffin, The reception was in the midst of a drenching rain, but was, nevertheless, attended by a great concourse of people. Six years before this umbrellas — or " umbrilloes," as they were called — were first used in Boston, and were, doubtless, put in requisition on this occasion. IS^early all the British troops that set foot in Boston landed at this wharf It was also the scene of the embarkation of the 5 th and 38th for Breed's Hill, who left so many of their number on its green slope. The stores on the wharf, deserted by most of their owners, were used during the siege for the storage of military and naval stores, of which a considerable quantity was recovered by Quartermaster-General Mifflin, — besides General Gage's char- iot, which was taken out of the dock broken, — when our forces entered the town. After the evacuation, the British fleet re- mained for some time anchored at Is^antasket, and was a source of continual alarm to the people. General Benjamin Lincoln organized a force which embarked from Long AVharf and took positions at Long and Pettick's Islands, Hull, Point Alderton, and elsewhere. The battery on Long Island sent a shot through the upper works of Commodore Banks's ship, when he signalled the fleet to get under way, blew up the lighthouse, and vexed the waters of Boston harbor no more. AYhen the news of the Embargo of 1812 reached the town it caused the greatest consternation. All the vessels that could get away before the port closed did so. Sunday, April 5, was as busy a day as any of the remaining six. Long Wharf, and every other, was crowded with trucks, sailors, and longshore- men. About fifty sail went to sea before the flag of Embargo was raised on Fort Hill. The embarkation of the troops which were to force the American works at Breed's Hill, from this wharf and from the Korth Battery (Battery AVharf ), was a scene to be remembered. The ships of war furnished the boats, which were in charge of CoUingwood, — afterwards so famous as Nelson's lieutenant, — then a midshipman. Erothingham graphically describes the display : — " When a blue flag was displayed as a signal, the fleet, with field- FROM THE OLD STATE HOUSE TO BOSTON PIER. 117 pieces in the leading barges, moved towards Charlestown, The sun was shining in meridian splendor ; and the scarlet uniforms, the glistening armor, the brazen artillery, the regular movement of the boats, the flashes of fire, and the belchings of snioke formed a spec- tacle brilliant and imposmg." " Hark, from the town a trumpet ! The barges at the wharf Are crowded witli the Hving freight, and now they 're i)u.shing off. With clash and gUtter, trump and drum, in all its bright array. Behold the splendid sacrifice move slowly o'er the bay ! " 118 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTER lY. BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. Old Comhill. — Paul Revere, — Amos and Abbott Lawrence. — Boylston's Al- ley. — Barracks of the 29th. — Blue Anchor. — Brattle Street Church, — General Gage. — Howe, Clinton, and Biirgoyne. — John Adams. — Head- quarters of Stage-Coaches. — Dock Square, — The Conduit. — To^vn Dock Described, — Quincy Market, — Origin of Markets in Boston. — The Tri- angular Warehouse, — Roebuck Passage. — Clinton Street. — The Old Market Museum. — Old Cocked Hat. — Faneuil Hall. — D'Estaing. — Lafayette. — Jackson. — Prince de Joinville. — Jerome Bonaparte. — Lord Ashburton. — The Portraits. — Corn Court. — Hancock House, — Talley- rand, — State Custom House, — The Conscription Riot. OUR way lies through that part of Old Cornhill from State Street to Dock Square. The Town Pump, which has been referred to, stood in the middle of Cornhill, on a line with the north side of Court Street, giving room for vehicles to jDass on either side. A drinking-fountain at the sidewalk would not inappropriately mark the place. At No. 50 Cornhill, coinciding with Crocker and Brewster's bookstore, we find Paul Revere, a man whose name occurs fre- quently in connection with the history of Boston. Descended from the sturdy old Huguenots, whose ancient family name was Rivoire, Paul Revere began business as a goldsmith, but, ere- long, took up the art of engraving on copper, in which he was self-taught ; a fact evident enough in his early attempts. Of his engravings of Dr. Mayhew, and the Rescinders, he might have said with Beau Brummel, " These are my failures." " The Massacre," " Cromwell's Head," etc., show a somewhat truer hand. But " Copperplate, with almanacks Engraved upon 't, and other knacks," did not fill the measure of Revere's ingenuity. He put in oper- ation the first powder-mill in the province, visiting Philadelphia ■ — where was the only mill in the Colonies — for this purpose. BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 119 120 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The proprietor would only permit the Boston mechanic to go through his mill ; but this was enough, and the Provincial Con- gress soon had powder. Eevere was of the Tea Party; was lieutenant-colonel of a regiment of militia raised after the evacu- ation ; and was in the ill-starred Penobscot expedition of 1779. After the peace of 1783 he established a cannon and bell foundry at the ^N'orth End, and, later, works at Canton for the manufac- ture of malleable copper bolts, spikes, etc. A company at the latter place still bears his name. Paul Revere was also the first President of the Mechanic Charitable Association. When the engraver was at work upon the caricature of the seventeen members of the Legislature who voted, in 1768, to rescind the resolution to issue a circular to the Colonies calling a convention to oppose taxation without representation, entitled " A warm place. Hell," Dr. Church, who afterwards betrayed the patriot cause, dropped in, and, seeing what Revere was do- ing, seized a pen and wrote ; — " brave Rescinders ! to yon yawning cell, Seventeen such miscreants will startle hell. There puny villains damned for petty sin, On such distinguished scoimdrels, gaze and grin ; The outdone devil will resign his sway, — He never curst his millions in a day." When Amos Lawrence first came to Boston, in 1807, from his native town of Groton, he began business in Cornhill, on the corner which makes the turn into Dock Square. We are assured that the rental of $ 700 per annum seemed, at that time, to presage ruin to the future millionnaire. Mr. Lawrence, whom we find set down as a shopkeeper, removed afterwards to the situation on the opposite side of CornhiU, now occupied by a weU-known carpet firm. At this time he boarded with Mrs. Dexter, in Portland Street, as did also his brother Abbott, an api)rcntice in his store. The munificent public and private charities of Amos Lawrence will long perpetuate his memory. To Williams College he gave upwards of $40,000, and to Bunker HiU Monument large sums and personal effort. Abbott Lawrence, the apprentice, became an eminent Boston merchant, besides holding many offices of public trust. He BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 121 was the founder of the city of Lawrence ; was in the City Council in 1831, a member of Congi'ess two terms, and minister to England from 1849 to 1852. He also founded the Lawrence Scientific School at Cambridge, endowing it muniticently. We have mentioned among the peculiar features of the town the arches, which in various places tunnel the buildings, and furnish a short cut from street to street. A covered passage is now before us, the oldest, it is believed, in Boston. Altera- tions have taken place in the buildings, but a similar way was here long prior to the Revolution. At the time of the Boston ISIassacre, and for two years previous. Brattle Square was a sort oijjlace d'armes for British troops, and in the alley began a col- hsion between some grenadiers of the 29th and a few citizens on the evening of the memorable 5th of March. As early as 1734 John Draper, who published the Boston IS'ews-Letter in 1732, and was printer to the Governor and Council, lived on the east corner, and from him it took the name of Draper's Alley. In 1776 Benjamin Edes, the printer, took the house next to Draper, part of which formed the alley, so that its present occupation by a large printing firm is entirely legitimate. The passage was known both as Draper's and Boylston's Alley. Opposite the opening into Brattle Street was Murray's Bar- racks, in which the 29th were quartered. This regiment was thoroughly hated by the Bostonians before the Massacre, and after tliis tragedy, in which it was the chief actor, there is Httle question that it would have been exterminated in detail but for its removal to the Castle. It is a singular fact that a major of the 29th, Pierce Butler, became a citizen of the United States and a Senator from South Carolina, becoming, in 1812, an ad- vocate for war against his native country. The officers of the 29th lodged at Madame Apthorp's. Her house stood in the angle now covered by the Central House. AVhere the City Tavern now is was once the locality of the Blue Anchor Tavern, but this was not the original " Blew Anchor," which was in Cornhill, very near the site of the Globe newspaper building. The old tavern was kept in 1691 6 122 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. by George Monck, and as early as 1664 by Eobert Turner. Savage says : "At the sign of the Blue Anchor, Turner fur- nished lodgings and refreshments to members of the govern- ment, to juries, and to the clergy, when summoned into synod by our General Court." The rooms in the Blue Anchor were designated as the " Cross Keyes," " Green Dragon," the "Anchor and Castle Chamber," and the " Kose and Sun Low Eoom." '^ What should we think in these days of such a bill as the fol- lowing abstract of an election dinner to the General Court in 1769 presents?— 204 dinners, 72 bottles of Madeira, 28 of Lis- bon, 10 of claret, 17 of j)ort, 18 of porter, 50 "double bowls" of punch, besides cider. A double bowl of punch held two quarts, enough to satisfy thirsty Jack Falstaff himself. At about the same time Joseph IngersoU, of the " Bunch of Grapes," furnished the Council with two dozen Madeira, three dozen Lisbon, four and a half gallons A^idania (" to mix with the water "), and six double bowls of punch. Only fifty cents in our currency was charged for anything eatable. Verily, Hutchinson and his associates were no ascetics. At our left hand rises the wreck of Old Brattle Street Church. " The tower that long had stood tlie crash of thunder and the warring winds " is now, as we write, all that is left of the historic edifice which dated back to 1772, just one hundred years before its demolition. The first building was erected in 1699, of wood, and was for a time known as the " Manifesto Church," in consequence of a declaration of principles by it, in answer to a j^rotest from the older churches against its more liberal form of worship. The old church was never painted, and the tower and bell were on the west side, while the entrance was at the south side. Its ruinous condition caused it to be rebuilt of brick, as it lately stood. John S. Copley, the painter, made a plan for the new building, but it was rejected on account of the expense, and that of Major Thomas Dawes accepted. Governor Hancock gave a thousand pounds, and a bell, on which was inscribed, — " I to the Churcli the living call, And to the grave I summon all, " * Whitmore's Notes to John Dunton's Letters. BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 123 This was the church of Cohiian, the Coopers, Thacher, Buck- minster, Edward Everett, Palfrey, and Lothrop, an array of clerical talent unsurpassed in the Boston pulpit. General Gage quartered the 29th in the church and vicinity, taking up his BRATTLE STREET CHURCH. own quarters in the house opposite. Gage told Mr. Turell that he had no fears for his men while quartered within such walls. Nevertheless, the night before the evacuation a twenty-four pound shot from Cambridge struck the tower, and flilling to the ground was picked up by Mr. Turell, and in 1824 was imbedded in the masonry, where it remained until the work of demolition began. When the society sold the church, they reserved the ancient quoins, pulpit, bell, and cannon-ball. The bell given by Gov- ernor Hancock became cracked, and was sold ; the present one having been purchased in London in 1809. The society voted 124 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. WINDOW OF BRATTLE STREET CHURCH, WITH BALL. to make Mr. Wakefield the custodian of the cannon-ball, to be placed by him in the front of his new building on the old site, and occupy the same position as in the church. The rustic quoins, of Connecticut stone, have been placed inside the tower of the new church on Commonwealth Avenue. One of these, which had the name of John Hancock inscribed upon it, was mu- tilated by the King's soldiers, who owed a special spite to King Han- cock, as they styled him. Dr. John Greenleaf 's name was on another of the quoins. During the occupation by troops, services appear to have been held occasionally in the church, as the Boston Gazette, of Septem- ber 21, 1775, states that "the Rev. Dr. Morrison received a call to preach in the elegant new church in Brattle Street, vacated by the flight of Dr. Cooper, and on Sunday he deliv- ered an excellent discourse to a genteel audience." The tenor of this discourse was upon the fatal consequences of sedition, and was adapted to the " genteel " audience. Of the pastors, besides Cooper, noted as a zealous coworker with the patriots, there was Buckminster, who had taught Daniel Webster at Ex- eter Academy, and was one of the originators of the Anthology Club ; Everett, whom Lafayette styled the young American Cicero, who left the pulpit for a distinguished career in public life ; and others who have been prominent in our annals. Besides Governors Hancock and Bowdoin and their families, Joseph Warren, Harrison Gray Otis, Madame Scott, Daniel Webster, John Coffin Jones, and many other distinguished Bostonians, have sat under the ministration of the pastors of Old Brattle Street. General Thomas Gage, whom some wit proposed to create Lord Lexington, Baron of Bunker Hill, on account of his dis- asters here, was well acquainted with Washington, having BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 125 fought under Braddock at Fort du Quesne, where he (Gage) led the advance. "Washington, in July, 1775, became his adversary. Another of these intimacies existed between Gen- eral Charles Lee and Burgoyne, who had served together in Portugal. Gage succeeded Hutchinson as governor, in 1774, when it was determined . by the Ministry to crush the rising spirit of rebellion in the Colonies. He was at first well received, but the course of events soon led to a wide separation between him and the people. After Lexington, Gage proclaimed martial law, offering pardon to all offenders except Samuel Adams and John Hancock. Bunker Hill followed, and the British general soon found himself shut up in the town. In October he resigned and returned to England, being succeeded by Howe. Howe, Clinton, and Burgoyne, all arrived in Boston in the Cer- berus, May 25, 1775. As they came up the harbor they met a packet outward bound, and Burgoyne hailed the master and inquired the news. Learning that Boston was closely besieged by the provincials, he demanded, "How many regulars are there in the town 1 " Being answered about five thousand men, he exclaimed, " What ! ten thousand peasants keep hve thou- sand King's troops shut up ; well, let us get in and we '11 soon find elbow-room." This name stuck to Burgoyne, and on a second visit to Boston, when the fortune of war had made him a prisoner, he landed at Charlestown Ferry, — where the bridge now is, — but was extremely annoyed by an old woman, who, perched on a neighboring shed, kept crying out, " Make way there, — elbow-room, — elbow-room." In 1768 Jolm Adams, the future president, but then a young barrister, took up his residence with Mr. Bollan in Brattle Square. The house was known as the White House. His son, John Quincy Adams, was then only a year old. In his diary Mr. Adams remarks that *' the town was full of troops, and through the Avhole succeeding fall and winter a regiment was exercised by Major Small directly in front of my house." On the night of the INIassacre ^Ir. Adams was passing the evening at the house of !Mr. Henderson Inches at the South End, where 126 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. a club, of which Adams was a member, used to assemble. Thinking the alarm was for a fire, he snatched his hat and cloak, and went out to assist in putting it out. He did not reach the Town House until the affair was ended, and passed on, through the Httle alley we have taken in our route, to Brattle Street. The 29 th were drawn up in front of their barracks, and Adams had to pass along their ranks to reach his lodgings, but not a word was spoken on either side. At this time he lodged in Cole Lane, now Portland Street. Mr. Adams was elected to the General Court of Massachusetts in 1770, though laboring under some obloquy on account of his defence of Captain Preston. He has been called the father of our navy, as the act passed under Washington's administra- tion authorizing the construction of six frigates, was vitalized by him, while at a still earlier day, in the Continental Congress of 1775, he drew up a code of regulations for a navy, that has formed the basis for the government of that branch of the service. Ambassador to England and Holland, and finally Chief Magistrate, John Adams, by a coincidence, died on the same day as Thomas Jefferson, July 4, 1826. Mr. Adams was termed by Jefferson the " Colossus " of Congress. Before leaving Brattle Square and its vicinity, it must not be forgotten that this street, with Elm and Union, formed the great headquarters of the stages before the day of railways. Wilde's and Doolittle's were chief among the taverns for stage travel, and on a clear morning the air resounded with the crack of the whips and halloo of the drivers. The starting of the stages was always witnessed by a gaping crowd, and their diurnal passage over the country roads was an event to the dwellers along the route, scarcely equalled by the later advent of the iron horse. The Tony Wellers of the box were great men in the eyes of the stable-boys and country lasses. One at least among them has reached the eminence of M. C, while another presides over the traffic of a great railway. In exploring Dock Square, we find that the old Town Dock, from which its name is derived, flowed up to a point opposite the entrance of Elm Street, formerly Wing's Lane. On the BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 127 brink of the Dock was a watch-house, and in the space formed by the junction of Korth (Anne), Union, and Ehn Streets was the Flat Conduit. This conduit was merely a reservoir of water, about twelve feet square, raised in the centre and sloping at the sides. It was covered with planks, and the platform served on Saturdays as a meal market. It is mentioned as early as 1657, and was constructed perhaps not long after the fire of 1653. Anne Street was originally Con- duit Street as far as Cross, and Union Street is described in 1 732 as leading from the Conduit to the Mill Pond. Before Faneuil Hall was built — as early as 1 708 — the space it covers and which surrounds it was occupied as a market-place, and at the foot of Merchants' Row the Dock was crossed by a swing-bridge, in two equal parts. That part of the Dock lying west of Merchants' Row was tilled up about 1780 ; it was known as the Market Dock. The lower section of the Dock was narrower, and is now covered by North ]\Iarket Street. At the time of the improvement of this region by Josiah Quincy, in 1826, the Town Dock came up as far as the head of Faneuil Hall Market, or, as tliis name is now applied to the market in Faneuil HaU, we will say Quincy Market, which the popular will has cliristened it. On the old plans of 1738 the Town Dock was flanked by Woodmansie's wharf on the south, and by Borland's, Bridgham's, Hill's, and Pitt's wharves on the north. The Mill Creek, connecting the Mill Cove with the Town Cove, emptied into the latter on a line with, and a little south of Blackstone Street. In the primitive order of things, it is apparent that the tide covered all the level ground in Dock Square, as far as the bot- tom of Brattle Street, and all east of Union Street from Creek Lane on the west. Between the Mill Creek and the Town Dock was a triangular tongue of land, or rather marsh. AU of the north side of the Dock seems to have been known at one time as the Fish Market. Shaw says, " The chief part of the town was built on the cove or bay which has since been called the Town Dock." The first paragraph in the town rec- ords establishes the fact that in 1634 this was the chief landing- place. 128 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The improvement by Mr. Quincy was the greatest enterprise of the kind that had been undertaken in Boston. By reference to Quincy's History, we learn that " a granite market-house, two stories high, 535 feet long, covering 27,000 feet of land, was erected at a cost of $ 150,000. Six new streets were opened, and a seventh greatly enlarged, including 167,000 feet of land, and flats, docks, and wharf rights obtained to the extent of 142,000 square feet. All this was accomplished in the centre of a populous city, not only without any tax, debt, or burden upon its pecuniary resources, but with large perma- nent additions to its real and productive property." This im- provement also facilitated the opening of Fulton and of Com- mercial Streets, the latter making direct communication north and south instead of a long detour through !N"orth Street. S. S. Lewis was the projector of Commercial Street. Quincy Market, though not at once pecuniarily successful, soon became so. It is a monument to Mr. Quincy's genius and perseverance. Any other man would have succumbed to the obstacles he had to encounter, but he pressed on to the accom- plishment of his purpose. He invested the sluggish town with new life, and brought into practical use a new watchword, — Progress. At a very early hour Mr. Quincy was in the habit of mounting his horse, and riding through every quarter of the town, remedying evils or projecting new enterprises. The interior of the market has always been a scene of attrac- tion to visitors, and a model of its kind. Admirable system and order prevails. Here are haunches that would have caused the royal sword to leap from its scabbard, as when "Our second Charles of fame facets, On loin of beef did dine ; He held his sword pleased o'er the meat, * Rise up, our famed Sir-loin ! ' " Here are sausages in festoons ; roasting pig that would have made Charles Lamb's mouth water ; vegetables in parterres, and fruits from every clime. Here one may have fish, flesh, fowl, or good red herring. The countenances of those who seek their daily food before the stalls is a study. The poor BllATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 120 woman lingering over the coveted joint for beyond her slender purse is jostled by the dame who gives carte blanche to her purveyor. Wliat quantities we eat ! Sydney Smitli thought he had eaten wagon-loads more than was good for him. The open mouths of the gazers upon this scene of plenty have been likened to so many graves yawning for the slaughtered herds. Yet plenty has not always prevailed in the town. Putnam came with his drove of sheep to succor the inhabitants in 1774. In 1775 the Town Bull, aged twenty years, was killed and sold for the use of the generals and officers, at eighteen pence sterling per pound. Perhaps Gage, in Brattle Square, with his subordi- nates, Howe, Clinton, and Burgoyne, sat in gloomy conclave over a tough morsel of the patriarch, hoping vainly that " good digestion might wait on appetite." Faneuil Hall Market was begun in 1824, the corner-stone laid in 1825, and was finished in November, 1826. It occupied a little more than two years in building. North and South ^larket Streets were built at the same time, and are respectively sixty-five and one hundred and two feet wide. The difference in the mdth of these streets, and in fact the position of the market itself, is due to the refusal of the heirs of Nathan Spear to part with their estate on any terms. By the increased Avidth of South Market Street, the difficulty was overcome, as the city then took the estate for the street with a clear legal conscience. Codman's, Spear's, Bray's, and the Avharves extending between Xorth ^Market and State Streets towards the present line of Commercial Street, were reclaimed in this great improvement, and converted into solid ground, and Chatham Street was laid out. Benjamin Faneuil, Jr., was in business in Butler's Bow in 1767, which, before the improvements, entered ]\Ierchants* Eow between Chatham and State Streets. This Benjamin was the nephew of Peter, of noble memory, and was one of the consignees of the tea shii)s whose cargoes were emptied into the dock in 1773. As a merchant, John Hancock had a store at the head of 130 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. what is now South Market Street, or, as it was then described; " Store No. 4, at the east end of Faneuil Hall Market. A general assortment of English and India Goods, also choice Newcastle Coals, and Irish Butter, cheap for Cash. Said Han- cock desires those persons who are still indebted to the estate of the late Hon. Thomas Hancock, Esq., deceased, to be speedy in paying their respective balances to prevent trouble." '" In Winthrop's Journal, a market is mentioned as set up by order of the court in March, 1634. Its locality is not men- tioned, but it is believed to have been on the site of the Old State House. In 1734 the town located three markets, and appropriated £ 300 towards their erection. They were situ- ated in North Square, Dock Square, and on the present ground of Boylston Market. A bell was rung daily at sunrise to give notice of the opening, and one o'clock p. m. was the hour of closing. On the 4th of June the three markets were opened for the first time, and the people and dealers flocked in great numbers to tliem. The market in Dock Square was always the most fre- quented. Faneuil Hall, of which we shall presently relate the history, did not long provide sufficient accommodations. At the time of Mr. Quincy's improvements there was a row of sheds, for the sale of vegetables, on the north side of Faneuil Hall, in what is now the street. The neighboring streets were often obstructed with market-waGrons, while farmers were com- pelled to occupy Union Street with their stands, nearly to Han- over, and Washington, almost to Court Street. In 1819 a number of citizens erected what was known as the City Mar- ket, in the large building at the foot of Brattle Street, now used as a furniture warehouse by Blake and Alden ; the upper part was occupied as a Gallery of Fine Arts. The General Court refused to incorporate the proprietors, and the city subsequently rejected the offer of the market as a donation. Retracing our steps along North Market Street, the first object of interest is the Triangular Warehouse, which stood on the border of the town dock, opposite the swing-bridge, until * Boston Evening Post, December 25, 1764. BKATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 131 taken down in 1824 to make room for the sweeping changes then inaugnrated. Its site is now covered by the buildings at the head of North Market Street, with a moiety in Merchants' liow and Chnton Street. This singular old building was built of brick, of two stories, on a stone foundation, with a tower at each angle ; a tower also rose from the centre of the roof Each of these towers termi- nated in a pointed roof of slate, and were capped with a stone ball set in lead, except the middle tower, which had a wooden one. The strength with wliich it was constructed, with the quaint architecture, led for a time to the supposition that it was intended for a Custom House, or some other similar purpose, but no proof being found to support the belief, the opinion became general that it _ was erected by London mer- chants for a warehouse, about i 1700. ^ One side of the Triangular AVarehouse fronted Eoebuck Passage, which has become, by transition, the extension of Merchants' Eow. The passage, named from a' tavern called the Roebuck, within its limits, Avas a tortuous defile a hundred feet in length, varying in widtli from thirteen to twenty feet, but was still the main tliorough- fare from the market north and south. The tavern itself was a building with a projecting upper story, and was a notorious resort of doubtful repute. It was the scene of at least one deadly affray. Eichard AVhittington, a descendant of the Lord Mayor of London, is said to have been the builder. Clinton Street was one of the new avenues which arose out of the chaos of this region. The Old Mill Creek crossed it at TRIANGULAR WAREHOUSE. 132 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. the j^oint where now stands the New England House, the last of the Boston coffee-houses. The hotel is built on made land. The course of the creek was altered at this point, so as to flow through the lower part of Chnton Street into the harbor, instead of following its old channel into the dock. To etfect tliis plan, the city bought GoA^ernor Eustis's Avharf, through which the creek found an artificial outlet. Blackstone Street has taken the jDlace of the creek. Opposite the north side of Faneuil Hall is a little alley, and on the alley, with a front on North Street, is an old landmark. This lofty wooden building of five cramped stories was the Old Boston Museum, established in 1804, by Philip Woods. After a removal to another location in Dock Square for a short time, the Museum returned to its old stand. In 1822 the New England Museum fell heir to the greater part of the collection. The building fronted originally on Market Square, and was sometimes designated the Market Museum. The timbers are a foot square ; the chambers scarcely allow a tall man to stand erect, whilst the staircase in its almost perpendicular ascent is extremely suggestive of broken bones. At the corner formed by North Street and Market Square was another of those ancient structures now extinct among us. It was known as the "Old Cocked Hat," from its fancied resemblance to an article of wear now as obsolete as itself. Under the western gable, fronting Dock Square, was the date of 1680. The building was of wood, covered with plaster on the outside, with which were mixed fragments of glass bottles. Various ornamental figures were traced upon this rough surface. On two sides, south and southwest, the water once flowed, and in digging not far from here some years ago to settle a disputed boundary question, the capstan and ring-bolt of the old wharf were uncovered within the present sidewalk. The " Old Cocked Hat " was of two stories, the upper pro- jecting, and is supposed to have been built the year folloA\'ing the destructive fire of August 3, 1G79, which began about midnight and raged till midday of the 4th. A hundred and fifty dwellings and warehouses, with several ships and their BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 133 ANCIENT HOUSE IN DOCK SQUARE. cargoes, were consumed. Tliis old house was at first a dwell- ing, and for a time, according to Snow, the principal apothe- cary's shop of the town was kept there. It was taken down in July, 18G0. The fame of Faneuil Hall is as wide as the country itself. It has been called the " Cradle of Liberty," because dedicated 1 )y that early apostle of freedom, James Otis, to the cause of liberty, in a speech delivered in the hall in March, 1763. Somewhat of its early history has appeared in the account of the town government. Its walls have echoed to the voices of the great departed in times gone by, and in every great public exigency the people, with one accord, assemble together to take counsel within its liallowed precincts. Though much too small for popular gatherings of the present day, its long use for this purpose, with the many glorious associations that cluster around it, still mark it as the centre from which the will of the people of Boston should proceed. The Old ^larket-house, mentioned as existing in Dock Square in 1734, was demolished by a mob in 173G-37. There was 134 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. contention among the people as to whether they would be served at their houses in the old way, or resort to lixed locali- ties, and one set of disputants took this summary method of settling the question. Pemberton says, this mob were "dis- guised like clergymen." In 1740, the question of the Market-house being revived, Peter Faneuil proposed to build one at his own cost on the town's land in Dock Square, upon condition that the town should legally authorize it, enact proper regulations, and FANEUIL HALL BEFORE ITS ENLARGEMENT. maintain it for the purpose named. Mr. Faneuil's noble offer was courteously received, but such was the division of opinion on the subject, that it was accepted by a majority of only seven votes, out of seven hundred and twenty-seven persons voting. The building was completed in September, 1742, and three days after, at a meeting of citizens, the hall was formally accepted and a vote of thanks passed to the donor. Hon. Thomas Gushing, the moderator of the meeting, the selectmen, and representatives of the town, were appointed a committee, " to wait upon Peter Faneuil, Esq., and in the name of the BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 135 town, to render him their most hearty thanks for so bountiful a gift." Besides this, the town voted that the hall should be called Faneuil Hall forever ; to procure Mr. Faneuil's portrait to be placed therein ; and later, to purchase the Faneuil arms, carved and gilt by Moses Deshon, to be fixed in the hall. The first architect of Faneuil Hall was John Smibert the painter ; Samuel Euggles was the builder. It was not at first intended by Faneuil to build more than one story for the market, but with noble generosity he went beyond his original proposal, and built another story for a town hall. The original size of the building was forty by one hundred feet, just half the present width ; the hall would contain one thousand per- sons. At the fire of January 13, 1763, the whole interior was destroyed, but the town voted to rebuild in March, and the State authorized a lottery in aid of the design. The first meet- ing after the rebuilding was held on the 14th March, 1763, when James Otis delivered the dedicatory address. In 1806 the Hall was enlarged in width to eighty feet, and by the addition of a third story. But little is left of the original building, but a rule has been laid down for such as may be curious to trace the old outline : '' Take a northeast view of the Hall, — there are seven wm- dows before you in each story, — run a perpendicular line, from the ground, through the centre of the middle window to the top of the belt, at the bottom of the third story, carry a straight line from that point nearly to the top of the second window, on the right, in the third story. That point is the apex of the old pediment. From that point draw the corre- sponding roof-line down to the belt, at the corner; and you have a profile of the ancient structure." A grasshopper, which still decorates the vane, made by that cunning artificer Deacon Shem Drowne, was long thought to be the crest of the Faneuils ; especially as a similar insect adorned the vane of the summer-house in Tremont Street. But the arms were extant not many years ago on some of Peter Faneuil's plate, in the possession of his descendants, and disproved this theory. No better reason has been assigned for the adoption 136 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. hEW TWCIIL H^LL, AMTH QlI^C\ MARKET of the grasshopper than that it was an imitation of the vane of the Eoyal Exchange, London. Curiously enough, the first pubhc oration dehvered in Faneuil Hall Avas a funeral eulogy, pronounced on the death of Peter Faneuil, INIarch 14, 1743, by Master Lovell of the Latin School. In the course of his^ address the orator said, " May Liberty always spread its joyful wings over this place. May Loyalty to a king under whom we enjoy that Liberty ever remain our character." Master Lovell, himself a tory fugitive when Boston was freed from the British occupation, did not dream of the ful- filment of his wish — divested of its dependence on a king — when he uttered it. Faneuil Hall was illuminated, by a vote of the town, on the news of the repeal of the Stamp Act, and the selectmen were requested to make provision for drinking the king's health. During the winter of 1775-76 the British officers, under the patronage of General Howe, fitted the hall into a very neat BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 137 theatre, devoted chiefly to performances ridicuHiig the patriots. The Sunday after the battle of Lexington there was a meeting held in the hall by the citizens to agree with General Gage on regulations under which the people might leave the town. The strictness with which the Sabbath was then observed testifies to the importance the subject had assumed. Gage communi- cated with the meeting tlu'ough Captain Sheriff, his aide-de- camp, the proposal that the inhabitants might be allowed to depart after surrendering their arms. ^lany of the old provin- cial officers, men who had served at Louisburg, were present, and viewed with deep chagrin the proposition to give up the arms they had worn in many honorable campaigns. Gage had tlie l:>ad faith afterwards to render his promise nugatory by ap- pointing a Town Major, to whom applications were made. This officer discriminated against those whose attachment to the patriot cause Avas known. In Faneuil Hall is the rendezvous of the " Ancient and Hon- orable Artillery Company." Its original designation was the " Military Company of the INIassachusetts " ; it was also styled, at different periods, " The Artillery Company " and " The Great Artillery." The name " Ancient and Honorable " was not ap- plied until 1720; no military organization can dispute its title to he the oldest band of citizen-soldiery in America. The com- jmny was formed in 1637, and at once applied for an act of in- corporation, which was not granted, the rigid Puritans fearing to estal^lish a privileged military body which might, on occasion, subvert the government. The Praetorian Band of the Pomans and the Templars of Europe were cited to enforce this Avise determination. The company was, nevertheless, permitted to choose a captain and make use of the common arms in their exercise. A chai-ter was granted in 1G38. Captain Keayne, the first commander, has been noticed. The charter prohibited any other military company from parading on the days appointed by law for the " Artillery " ; and this ex- clusive privilege was maintained against the "AVinsloAv Phies," in 1808, when that company assembled in Faneuil Hall on one of the field-davs of the " Ancients." 138 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. It does not appear what the uniform of the company — if any was adopted — was at the beginning. Blue and buff was supposed to be the dress in 1738. By 1770 the corps stood arrayed in gold-laced hats, blue coats, buif under-clothes, and silk stockings, with white linen spatterdashes. In 1772 an order was issued that wigs and hair should be clubbed. Some few changes were made in 1787, when shoulder-straps, to secure the cross-belts, and a black garter, worn below the knee, were adopted ; the hair to be worn en queue. Chapeau-bras and cockade, with black plume, eighteen inches long, took the place of the old cocked-hat in 1810, with red facings for the coat instead of buff. The company was assembled by beat of drum, which re- mained the practice for many years. On days of parade the drummer passed through the principal streets beating the rapj)el vigorously. The colors were displayed on these occasions from Colonel Daniel Henchman's bookstore, at the corner of King Street and Old Cornhill, — the vacant area which then existed under the Old State House serving the corps for a rendezvous until the town provided an armory in Faneuil Hall. In 1 743 halberds were used by sergeants, and pikes and half-pikes by the captain and lieutenant. The roll of the " Ancients " presents a host of names distin- guished in Colonial and Eevolutionary history. To enumerate them would be impossible within our limits. The old custom of " Artillery Election," when the old officers retire and the new are commissioned by the governor, is still scrupulously observed. The " Election Sermon " is still preached as in the days of Colman and Sewall. During the reception of Count D'Estaingin September, 1778, a superb entertainment was given him at Faneuil Hall, at which five hundred guests were present. When Lafayette was in Boston, in 1784, the merchants gave him a dinner at Faneuil Hall. At every toast thirteen cannon were discharged in Market Square by Major Davis's train of Artillery. The picture of Washington had been concealed by drapery, and when in the course of the banquet it was un- BRATTLE SQUARE AXD THE TOWN DOCK. 139 veiled, the Marquis rose to liis feet, clapped his hands, and seemed deeply moved as he gazed on the features of his old commander. The audience was not less affected than the dis- tinguished guest. The Marquis was fond of identifying him- self with the Americans, and in this way won their love and admiration. Being asked by a lady on one occasion if the black cockade was not the color worn by the Continental officers, he replied : " Yes, madame, but we added the white out of com- phment to the French when they joined us." The folio Aving anecdote is related by Mr. Dean, in his memoir of Daniel Messinger : — "An amusing incident occurred once at a dinner given Prince Jerome Bonaparte in 1804. It is stated on the authority of Josiah Quincy, that after dinner Colonel Daniel Messinger sang the favorite old song of ' To-morrow.' As the audience joined in the chorus of ' To-morrow, To-morrow,' a cloud came over the countenance of the Prince, and taking his next neighbor by the arm he exclaimed, ' To Moreau ! To Moreau ! Is it a song in honor of General Moreau ? ' He was quickly undeceived, and smiled when he found that no one but himself was tliinking of the great rival of his brother." President Jackson visited Boston in June, 1835, accompanied by Secretaries Cass and Woodbury, and Mr. Poinsett of South Carolina. The occasion was the opening of the new Dry Dock at Charlestown, and the docking of the frigate Constitution. The President held a pul^lic reception in Faneuil Hall. Com- modore Hull, ]\Ir. AVinthrop, and Mr. Van Buren were present. The Vice-president was described as a tight, snug, compact, vigorous-looking little body, with a bright, keen, twinkling little eye and winning smile. Both he and jNIr. Woodbury were very bald. Mr. Cass Avas not present. The visit of the Prince de Joinvillo to Boston in Xovember, 1841, was rendered memorable by a grand ball given in his honor at Faneuil Hall. The Prince had come over to Xew York in La Belle Poule frigate, the same that conveyed the ashes of the great Xapoleon from St. Helena to France. The towTi was all agog for the expected visit of the Prince, and when he appeared at the ball simply attired in a blue naval uniform, 140 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. the enthusiasm was extreme. The Prince wore no decoration, except the ribbon of the Legion of Honor, and devoted himself assiduously to the ladies to whom he was introduced, Tlie old hall was beautifully decorated with flags and devices specially designed for the occasion. Alexander Baring, Lord Ashburton, negotiator with Mr. Webster of the treaty which bears his name, was welcomed to Boston in Faneuil Hall, August 27, 1842, by Mayor Chap- man. From him Ashburton Place takes its name. As one of the great house of Baring Brothers, he resided some time in the United States, He and Webster were on terms of close intimacy. The Earl of Elgin, while governor-general of Canada, visited Boston to attend the jubilee upon the OiDening of the Grand Trunk Railway. He was accompanied by a numerous staff, and received the honor of a grand ball at Faneuil Hall. Among the officers who accompanied him, none attracted more attention than those of a Highland regiment, — stalwart, bare- legged fellows in bonnet, kilt, and tartan. Among the attractions to the old Cradle of Liberty, the por- traits which adorn tlie walls are not the least, and it is to be regretted that some which have hung there and would now be highly prized were either destroyed or spirited away by vandal hands. Shortly after the death of Mr. Faneuil, Governor Shir- ley informed the selectmen that he had received his Majesty's picture through the hands of the Duke of Grafton, and soon after the likeness of George II. was hung in the hall. The town had solicited the portraits of Colonel Barrc and General Conway, their able defenders on the floor of Parliament. The request was complied with, and the pictures sent over in 17G7, but they disappeared from the hall after the British evacuated the town. The west end of the hall is covered with paintings. The large picture by Healey, representing Webster replying to Hayne in the Senate, first attracts the view. The portraits of John Hancock and Samuel Adams are by Copley, as is that of Joseph Warren. The Adams has been called Copley's mas- BRATTLE SQUARE AND THE TOWN DOCK. 141 ter-piece, and was painted for Governor Hancock, but on the sale of his eti'ects became the property of S. A. AVells, and finally of Adam W. Thaxter, who presented it in 1842 to the city. The full length of Peter Faneuil is a copy of a smaller painting in the Historical Society's possession. It is by Colonel Henry Sar- gent, and was presented by Samuel Parkman, as was also the full length of AVashington, by Stuart. The portraits of Eufus Choate and Abraham Lincoln are by Ames, that of Governor Andrew by Hunt. General Henry Knox is by Gilbert Stuart. Commo- dore Preble, one of the only two he ever sat for, is probably a Stuart. The superb clock was the gift of the school children. Corn Court took its name from the corn market which was once held on the south side of the Town Dock. Entering its recesses, unknown to half the town, we fmd the oldest inn in Boston, now called the Hancock House. This may well have been the site of Samuel Cole's old inn. Altered in some re- spects, the building presents a front of brick, with wooden side- walls. A dilapidated sign, bearing the weather-stained features of Governor Hancock, retains a feeble hold of its fastenings. This was the old Brasier Inn, at which Talleyrand sojourned when in Boston in 1795. He afterwards became the guest of Mr. William Lee, in Water Street. Mr. Lee's residence, a two-story wooden house, stood near the site of the new Post- Office, and was removed not many years ago. Talleyrand, the future prime minister and evil genius of Napoleon, was ban- ished from France, and made his way to the United States, accompanied by the Due de la Eochefoucauld Liancourt and M. de Beaumetz. At the same time Robespierre proscribed him in France, Pitt also proscribed him in England. He went first to Philadelphia, where Congress was sitting, and entered freely into the political questions then being agitated. He was intimate with Jefferson, and intrigued with the opposition to prevent the accomplishment of a treaty between England and the United States. On his return to France, after an absence of little more than a year, he was accused of having worn the white cockade in America. He ^v^ote from the United States to Madame de Genlis : " I think no more of my enemies ; I occupy myself in repairing my fortune." 142 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Talleyrand visited tlie studio of Gilbert Stuart. The latter, who was a great physiognomist, after an attentive examination of the features of his visitor, remarked to a friend, " If that man is not a villain, the Almighty does not write a legible hand." Talleyrand was no friend to the United States, as was soon manifest in the capture of our vessels by the French cruisers when he came into power, which resulted in a quasi state of war with the French Eepublic. M. de Talleyrand returned to Europe in an American vessel, commanded by a man named Vidal, to whom he took a great liking. He signalized his arrival in Hamburg by an amour, which, in its deplorable results, made the language of Stuart prophetic. His adventure with the young and beautiful Baron- ess de S , a pupil of Madame de Genlis, is a matter of history. The unfortunate lady, better known as " Cordelia," being deserted by Talleyrand, put an end to her life with a small American penknife, the gift of her lover, which she thrust into her heart. Upon her table was found an open note directed to M. de Talleyrand. The contents were as follows : — " I have burnt all your letters. They did no honor to my memory nor to your heart. You are the author of my death ; may God for- give you, as I do! "Cordelia." The brick building now occupied as a mne store, on the south side of Faneuil Hall, is one of the antiquities of the neighborhood, having stood for nearly a century unmoved amid the mutations that have swept over that locality. Opposite the southeast corner of Faneuil Hall was located the Custom House under the State government, James Lord, Collector. Hon. James Lovell was Collector in 1789. Dock Square was the scene of one of the incidents of the Conscription Riots of 18G3. The mob, after a fruitless assault upon the gun-house in Cooper Street, proceeded in this direction with intent to supply themselves with arms from the stores of the dealers in weapons. They were so promptly met, however, by the police force, which behaved with signal bravery on this occasion, that no serious results followed, and, the military soon arriving on the ground, the riot fell still-born. FKOM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 143 CHAPTER V. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. Tlie North End. — Boston Stone. — Painter's Arms. — Louis Pliilippe. — Union, Elm, and Portland Streets. — Benjamin Franklin's Residence. — The Blue Ball. — Lyman Beecher's Cliurch. — Benjamin Hallowell. — Green Dragon. — Pope Day. — St. Andrew's Lodge. — jMill Pond. — Cause- way. — Mill Creek. — North Street. — Sir D. Ochterlony. — Eastei-n Stage - House. — Cross Street. — The Old Stone House. — New Brick Cliurch. — The Red Lyon. — Nicholas Upshall. — Edward Randolph. — North Scjuare. — Sir H. Frankland. — Major Shaw. — Pitcairn. — Old North Church. — Cotton, Samuel, and Increase IMather. — Governor Hutchinson. — General Boyd. — Fleet Street. — King's Head Tavern. — Bethel Church. — Father Taylor. — Hancock's Wharf. — Swinging Signs. — First Universalist Church. — First Metliodi.st. — New North. — Ship Tavern. — Noah's Ark. — Salu- tation Taveni. — The Boston Caucus. — The North Battery. — Trucks and Truckmen. WE now invite the reader to accompany us into the Xorth End, a section of the town which became settled after the more central portion we have been traversing. It contains more of its original features than any other quarter ; many of its old thoroughfares are but little altered, and retain their ancient names. As for the buildings, as we plunge deeper into this region, we shall find some of those old structures that still link us to the olden time. Weather- stained, tottering, and decrepit as they are, not many years will elapse before the anticpiary will seek in vain for their relics. Imbedded in the rear wall of a building wliich fronts on Hanover Street, and presents its westerly side to Marshall Street, is the Boston Stone. Of the thou- sands who daily hurry through this narrow way, the greater 144 LAXDMAEKS OF BOSTOX. part are unconscious of its existence. The stone bears the date 1737, and seems to have got its name from the famous London Stone, which served as a direction for the shops in its neighborhood, as did the Boston Stone for its vicinity. It was brought from England about 1700, and was used as a paint- mill by the painter who then occupied a little shop on these premises. The spherical stone which now surmounts its fellow was the grinder, and was for a time lost, but was discovered in digging the foundation for the present edifice. The larger stone is only a fragment of the original, which was spht into four pieces when placed in its present position. Its capacity is said to have been nearly two barrels. Following the custom of the times, the painter placed in the front of his house the coat of arms carved in wood now in the Hanover Street front, from which liis dwelling was known as the "Painter's Arms." Though it bears the date of 1701, the coat of arms, representing probably the guild of painters, ap- pears in excellent preservation. In 1835 the old " Painter's Arms " was taken down, and the tablet transferred to the build- ing which replaced it. Opposite to Boston Stone is an antiquated but well-preserved brick building standing quietly aloof from the neighboring and busy street. This building makes the corner — on Creek Lane — of a row of three or four venerable brick structures extend- ing towards Blackstone Street. These were built shortly after the peace by John Hancock, and are to this day called " Han- cock's Row." Times were depressed, and Hancock's bounty gave employment to many deserving and needy artisans. The row at first extended to the creek whose waters have long since ceased to flow. The building first mentioned was the office of Ebenezer Hancock, brother of the governor, and deputy paymaster-gen- eral of the Continental army. Here, when the town was under the government of Greene and Heath and Gates, a sentinel paced before the door, never, we may believe, deserted by the needy officers of the Continental line. The lower floor has groaned beneath the weight of the French crowns sent us by FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 145 his Most Christian Majesty, our excellent ally, brought over by the fleet of D'Estaing. How the poor fellows' eyes must have sparkled when they received their long arrears in King Louis's bright silver crowns ! The order of Gates or Heath was now a talisman to unlock the strong-box of the paymaster, and for once it was not empty. Paymaster Hancock occupied the house also as his residence. AVilliam Pierce was a Avell-known barber at Boston Stone in 1789, ajid he continued to follow his calling until nearly a hundred years old. His shop was a sort of exchange for the gossip current at the North End, and was frequented by many celebrated residents of that locality. It was Pierce's boast that he had shaved Franklin, and he related that Franklin told him he was born at the corner of Union and Hanover Streets. He had also preserved a tradition that the Hancocks formerly resided in Hatters' Square. John Xorman, also known as an engraver of some repute, had his printing-office at Boston Stone in 1784. At the corner of IMaTshall and Union Streets lived, in 1798, James Amblard, a tailor. Amblard, a Frenchman by birth, had the honor of being the host of the Due de Chartres, after- wards Louis Philippe, during his residence in Boston, to which allusion has been made. AVhile awaiting funds from Europe, Louis found himself obliged to resort to teaching the French language here, until ho and his brothers were relieved by remit- tances from their mother. Tlie Duke returned to London in 1800, and resided at Twickenham. According to ^Mr. Xason, the future king of France was intimate witli the father of Wm. B. Fowle, Esq., the educator, and often jdayed chess with him of an evening, presenting on his departure a set of chessmen still preserved in the family. L^nion Street was named from the British Union. Creek Lane reminds us of the mill creek to whicli it led. Cole Lane, or Cold Lane, has taken the name of Portland Street, and at first extended only as far as the jNIill Pond. Elm Street was Wing's Lane. Elm, Hanover, and Salem Streets were all 7 J 146 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. widened under the town government ; before this they were the merest lanes. Emerging from Union Street into Hanover, we stand on the corner which disputes with Milk Street the honor of being the birthplace of Benjamin Franklin. The student who patiently investigates the claims of the rival localities will be likely at last to exclaim with Mercutio, — "A plague o' both the houses ! " Franklin's own statement, as given by himself to a person worthy of credit, was that he was born on this now famous corner, while other evidence goes to contradict it. That his early youth was passed here is certain. Here he practised the art of making tallow candles for his father, and employed his leisure in throwing rubbish into the neighboring Mill Pond. From here he wended his way through Hanover and Court Streets to the Latin School, and, after his father's business became distasteful to him, to bis brother's printing-office in Queen Street. The sign of Josias Franklin, father of Benjamin, was a Blue Ball, suspended by an iron rod from the front ^ • — T..^^ ;:;;^ of his shop, which stood at the southeast corner of Hanover and Union Streets. Before the streets were numbered, and while the buildings were scat- tered, it was the universal custom among the inhab- TTiR nuvE BALL. itauts to dcsiguatc their shops by some emblem. Thus we find the " Heart and Crown," "Three Nuns and a Comb," and "Brazen Head" in Cornhill, " Three Doves " in Marlborough Street, " Tun and Bacchus " and " Three Sugar Loaves and Canister " in King Street. This last was thus distinguished from the "Two Sugar Loaves" in Cornhill : — FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 147 " Oft the peasant with inquiring face, Bewildered, trudges on from i)hice to place ; He dwells on every sign with stupid gaze, Enters the narrow alley's doubtful maze, Tries every winding court and street in vain, And doubles o'er his weary steps again." The old house was quite small and of two stories, to which a third was added in later times. It was q ^ ^ partially destroyed by fire in 1858, and "'*^ in the same year the city took the build- ijig to widen Union Street. When the widening of Hanover Street took place, the old site was partially taken for that street. In the same way, by the plan of cutting off wholly from one side of the street, a number of quite noted landmarks disappeared. It was the intention of the owners to have removed the Franklin building to another location, but it was '''^^ °" ^''""^^ ^''^"^'• found impracticable. Two relics of it are, however, preserved. The Blue Ball is in the possession of General Ebenezer W. Stone of Boston, and from the original timbers was made a chair which was presented to the Mechanic Charitable Asso- ciation. There are two original portraits of Franklin in the Public Li- brary, — one by Duplessis, presented by Hou. Edward Brooks ; the other by Greuze, presented by Gardner Brewer. Corresponding with No. ,97 Hanover Street, once stoi^l the church of Dr. Lyman Beecher, the eminent divine, fatlier of Henry Ward Beeclier. The church was erected in 1826, and consumed by fire on the night of the 31st December, 1829. Eeport says, a quantity of liquor was found by the firemen in the cellar. It was built of rough granite, had a central tower, and in general appearance was not unlike tlie old Brattle Street. After the destruction of tlieir house, the society united in build- ing the church in Bowdoin Street, wliich was completed in June, 1831. Dr. Beecher was tlie first pastor, having been set- tled in March, 1826, but in 1832 he removed to Cincinnati. 148 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The society was originally formed from members of Park Street, the Old South, and Union Churches. The Hanover Ch-iirch stood on the site of Benjamin Hallow- ell's old residence, which was ransacked by the -same mob that pillaged Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson's house in August, 1765. Mr. Hallowell was a comptroller of customs, and as such, regarded with special hatred by the pojDulace. The mob destroyed or carried oif everything of value, including a small sum of silver. Hallowell then removed to an elegant mansion at Jamaica Plain, which was afterwards confiscated. One of his sons, B. Carew, became a distinguished British admiral. Hon. John Coffin Jones also lived on the Hallowell estate. Captain Henry Prentiss, a Revolutionary soldier and one of the Tea Party, lived also on this spot. He was a distinguished merchant and ship-owner. The Green Dragon Tavern in Union Street was the greatest celebrity among all the old Boston hostelries. It stood facing towards the street, on a little alley running from Union Street around by the rear, but by the increased width of the street the site now abuts upon it, and is marked by a freestone tablet set in the Avail witli a dragon sculptured upon it in bas-relief.*' Tliis was the sign of the old tavern, which was on the west side of Union, a short distance from Hanover Street. In early times it was the property of Lieutenant-Governor Stoughton, and was used as a hospital during the Revolution. It was a two-story brick building with pitch roof. From above the en- trance projected an iron rod on which was crouched the fabled monster of antiquity. William Stoughton, Lieutenant-Governor from 1692 to his death in 1701, was one of the " Council of Safety" which deposed Andros. As Chief Justice of the Court he has acquired a fearful celebrity in connection v/ith the witchcraft trials. We have seen that Warren, John Adams, Revere, and Otis were neighbors. The former was the first Grand Master of the first Grand Lodge of Masons who held their meetings in the * Many think the tablet incorrectly placed. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NOKTII BATTERY. l-iO Green Dragon. The rest of the patriots came here to plan or DO confer. How much '' treason " was hatched under this roof will never he known, hut much was unquestionahly concocted within the walls of the masonic lodge. It is upon their record that they adjourned on account of the memorable Tea Party, for which they furnished no inconsiderable number. Paul Revere says : " In the fall of 1774 and winter of 1775 I was one of upwards of thirty, chiefly mechanics, wlio formed ourselves into a committee for the purpose of watching the movements of the British soldiers and gaining every intelli- gence of the movements of the tories. We held our meetings at the Green Dragon Tavern. This committee were astonished to find all their secrets known to General Gage, although every time they met, every member swore not to reveal any of their transactions except to Hancock, Adams, AVarren, Otis, Church, and one or two more." The traitor proved to be Dr. Church, who was afterwards arrested for treasonable correspondence with the enemy. The early meetings of the iNLissachusetts Charitable Associa- tion, organized in 1795, were held here and at Concert Hall. It was always a favorite resort for the mechanics of the North End. AVhen the convention was sitting which was to consider the adoption of the Federal Constitution, a great mass meeting of Boston mechanics assembled in the Green Dragon, which gave so emphatic an expression in favor of its acceptance that Samuel Adams said, " If they want it, they must have it." One of the old customs long ol)served in Boston was the celel)ration of Pope Day, as November 5th, the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot, was called. A bitter animosity existed between the North and South Enders, whose line of demarca- tion was the Mill Bridge on Hanover Street. Each section had its procession and its jiope, and when the rival parties met, a battle ensued with fists, sticks, and stones, and one or the other of the popes was captured. The North End pope was never, it is said, taken but once. Pope Day was a saturnalia. A stage was erected on wheels, on which was placed a figure of the pope seated in a chair. 150 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Behind this was a female scarecrow called Nancy Dawson, with effigies of Admiral Byng and the Devil hanging from a gallows. Much ill-blood arose from these conflicts, the effects of which remained nntil the anniversary came round again. Governor Hancock, considering this foolish rivalry prejudicial to the pa- triot cause, used every effort to subdue it, but without effect. He at last gave a supper at the Green Dragon Tavern, which cost him $ 1,000, to which he invited all the leading men of both parties, and invoked them in an eloquent speech to lay aside their animosity for their country's sake. The appeal was successful, and the rival parties shook hands before they sepa- rated. From that time Pope Day ceased to agitate the warring factions. '^ The Green Dragon, also known as the " Freemason's Arms," is specially noted in the annals of Masonry in Boston. It was purchased by St. Andrew's Lodge before the Eevolution, and remained in their possession more than a century. The lodge was organized under a charter from the Grand Lodge of Scot- land in 1756, and was chiefly composed of residents of the North End. There were several lodges in the British regi- ments that landed in Boston in 1768 and 1774, and St. An- drew's Lodge united with them in organizing a Grand Lodge. The first Lodge of Freemasons met in Boston July 30, 1733. It was the first in the Colonies, receiving authority from Lord Montague, Grand Master of England, Daniel Webster styled the Green Dragon the Headquarters of the Eevolution, a name to which it has an undoubted claim. In the Green Dragon the Sandcmanians held their first meetings in America. In later times it was kept by Daniel Simpson, the veteran musician. On the corner where now stands the Baptist Church building was formerly a brewery. The Mill Pond, or Cove, mentioned in the Introduction, once covered all the tract embraced within North and South Margin Streets, being divided from the sea on the northwest by the Causeway, now Causeway Street. The station-house of the Boston and Maine Railway stands in the midst of this Mill * General Sumner's Reminiscences. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. l.jl FIRST BAPTIST CHUKCH IN 1S53. Pond, wliile tlie Lowell, Eastern, and Fitcliburg occupy sites beyond the Causeway rescued from the sea. The high ground sloping away from Green and Leverett Streets once marked the boundary of the Cove in that direction, whilst tlie eastern mar- gin, reaching to Distill-house _ Square, included all of Haymar- ket S(iuare. On the northern shore the water covered Endicott Street, reaching to Prince, bcilow Thacher, and penetrated to the rear of Baldwin Place, almost to Salem Street. When the Second Baptist Church was situated in Baldwin Place, candidates for ba[)tism were immersed in the rear of the church. Before En- dicott Street was laid out, about 183G, over a part of what was known as the " Old Way," Prince Street was the thoroughfare to Charlestown. The Mill Pond thus embraced an area as large as the Common. The origin of the Causeway was in a footpath of the Indians over a more elevated part of the marsh. One Mr. Crabtree raised and widened this primitive path into a dam to retain the waters of the pond. In 1643 the town granted Henry Simons and others a tract, including the Mill Pond and flats west of tlie Causeway, on condition of their building one or more corn-mills, and bridging the ISIill Creek at Hanover and North Streets. ^lills were ac- cordingly erected at the west end of the creek called the South Mills, and at either end of the Causeway. The Xorth ^lills stood very near the junction of Thacher and Endicott Streets. These were a grist-mill and a saw-mill ; a chocolate-mill stood at a little distance beyond in after times. In 1804 the grant came into possession of the ^lill Pond Cor])oration. The town in 1807 released the original obliga- tion to maintain the mills and bridges forever, and the work of 152 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. filling commenced, Copp's and Beacon Hills furnishing tlie ma- terial for this purpose. Tlie process of tilling occupied twenty- five years before it was fully completed, and during that time the Mill Pond was the receptacle for all the rubbish from the streets. The Mill Creek, whose outlet into the Town Dock has been traced, was doubtless in some form an original feature of the peninsula. The want of an early map is keenly felt in any effort to establish the structure of the original surface. Win- thro]) says, the north part of the town " was separated from the rest by a narrow stream which was cut through a neck of land by industry." Hanover Street was this neck, and all north of the creek was an island known in times past as the " Island of Boston." An order of the court in 1631, levying £ 30 on the several plantations for clearing a creek and opening a passage to the new town, supports the view that a small water-course existed here which finally became a means of communication between the Town Dock and Mill Cove. The creek, at first furnishing a supply of water for the tide mills, became in process of time a canal, with walls of stone, wide and deep enough to permit the passage of boats and even sloops from the harbor on the east to the river on the west. As such, it was an extension of the Middlesex Canal, incorporated in 1753, and of which Loammi Baldwin was engineer. The boats entered the canal at Chelmsford on the Merrimack, and passed on to the wharves on the east side of Boston, a distance of thirty miles. Blackstone Street, named from the founder of Boston, is built upon the bed of the canal. The old Mill Bridge thrown over Hanover Street was rebuilt in 1G8G ; was taken up in 1793 and replaced by a stone arch over which the pavement was continued. At North Street where the creek crossed was a drawbridge, from wliich this street was sometimes called Drawbridge Street. The i)assage of vessels being discontinued, the creek, which had an average width of twenty feet, was planked over here. The North End was but three streets wide in older times. These were North, Hanover, and Salem Streets. The former, FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 153 besides a number of aliases already given, was known along its course first as the Fore, or Front Street, and also as Anne, Fish, and Sliip Street. Hanover Avas Middle Street from the Mill Creek to Bennet Street, beyond which it was North Street. Salem was called Back Street as far as Prince, and at one period Green Lane. All these retain their original names in part, except North, which has ever enjoyed a reputation not inferior to the Seven Dials of London or Five Points of New York, Crowded at one time through its entire length with brothels and low dram-shops, Anne Street took a new name before its character was improved. ''And on the broken pavement here and there, Doth many a stinking sprat and herring lie ; A brandy and tobacco shop is near, And hens, and dogs, and hogs are feeding by, And here a sailor's jacket hangs to dry. At every door are snnburnt matrons seen, Mending old nets to catch tlie scaly fry ; Now singing shrill, and scolding eft between ; Scolds answer foul-mouthed scolds ; bad neighborhood, I ween." Laid out along the original water-front, wharves extended from Anne Street into the harbor. Over these Commercial Street is now built. In colonial times Anne Street bore a better reputation, and many of the magnates of the town found their residence in it. It was widened in 1859 and greatly im- proved, and is now for some extent devoted to business pur- poses. At the lower corner of North and Centre Streets, formerly called Paddy's Alley, stands an old two-story brick house. The front wall has apparently been rebuilt, but the remainder of the structure bears the genuine stamp of antiquity. This was the home of Sir David Ochterlony, Bart., son of a royal- ist, and a Bostonian by birth. It was not those alone who served under their country's flag that gained celebrity during the llevolutionary War. Among those who entered the British service were seven young Bosto- nians, who arrayed themselves against their native land, and finally became generals or admirals in that service. Their 154 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. names are General John Coffin, Thomas Aston Coffin, Bart., Eoger Hale Sheaffe, Bart., Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, General Hugh McKay Gordon, B. Hallowell, and Sir David Ochterlony. The latter, before whose home we are pausing, was a Latin- School boy, went to India at eighteen, served in the Indian wars, and was at the great conflict of Delhi. For his services in India Ochterlony was made a major-general in 1814 and baronet in the year following. The name indicates his Scotch origin. Unlike his famous companions, Sir David did not hnd himself compelled to serve against his countrymen. At a little distance from this corner we hnd in Centre Street the old brick stable of the Eastern Stage-House, the headquar- ters for many years of stages bound to Portland and the east- ward. It was kept by Colonel Ephraim Wildes, and ranked with Earl's, Doolittle's, and other principal rendezvous of this kind. The entrance on N'orth Street was by a large arch, through which you passed into a court-yard of large area. Descending from the coach you entered the main building by a flight of steps, where good cheer and hearty welcome always awaited the tired traveller. Cross Street, in 1708, extended from the Mill Pond to the sea. At the corner of Anne was the Cross Tavern ; its name was, like Middle and Back, descriptive. It was an important thoroughfare in former times, but is chiefly interesting to the antiquarian on account of the Old Stone House that stood be- tween Hanover and North, about midway on the east side. The interest which attached to it was chiefly on account of its age, though conjecture has assigned to it the uses of a jail and gar- rison house under the old colony. It was built of rough stone, with the large brick chimneys on the outside, and stood for about two hundred years. It was very early described as the '' Stone House of Deacon John Phillips in the cross street." Tradition has ascribed to it the first place of meeting of the town overseers, and Pemberton vouches for the finding of loop- holes in the walls while it was under repair. None of these garrison houses, so commonly erected in the scattered villages FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 155 for defence against the Indian foe, are known to have been built in Boston. The Old Stone House was removed in 18G4, and a part went to make the foundation of an East Boston church. Savage's Police Record gives the following description of the Old Stone House, which he says, "at tirst consisted of two wings of uniform size joining each other and forming a right angle. Each wing was forty feet long, twenty feet wide, and two stories high, the wings fronting the south and west. There was one door in the end of each wing on the first story, and a single circular window in the second story over the doors ; there were also two circular windows in each story of each wing in front, but neither door nor window in either wing in the rear. The foundation walls were four feet thick or more ; the walls above ground were two feet in thickness, and built entirely of small quarried stones, unlike anything to be seen in this neigh- borhood, and were probably brought as ballast from some part of Europe." Passing the Old Hancock School, now a police-station, and Board Alley, so narrow a drunken man could not fiill to the right or left, we arrive at Ilichmond Street, formerly Bridge Lane, and according to some authorities the old Beer Lane. The " Xew Brick " or " Cockerel " Church was first built on this spot in 1721, and originally came out of the Xew Xorth Church. The figure of the cock was placed upon the first vane in derision of Rev. ^Ir. Thacher, Avhose Christian name was Peter. A fierce controversy at the ordination of iNFr. Thacher as pastor of the New North Church caused the division which led to the formation of the society of the Xew Brick. Dr. Eliot says, " that when the cock was placed upon the spindle, a merry fellow straddled over it and crowed three times to com- plete the ceremony." This church went by the name of the " Revenge Church," until Dr. Lathrop took charge and healed the lireach with the parent church. The Xew Brick, a name given to distinguish it from the Old Brick in Cornhill, originally fronted upon Hanover Street, but now stands sidewise upon that street and facing toAvards Rich- mond. It is one of the very few Boston chui'ches occupying 156 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. their original sites. In 1845 it was rebuilt of brown stone, and pulled down in 1871 during the widening of Hanover vStreet. The historic rooster is seen on Paul Revere's picture of 1768. It is now, after having breasted the storms of a century and a • half, safely dej^osited within the new church. Passing through Richmond to North Street, we find ourselves in a region where even that veteran antiquary, Jonathan Old- buck, would have felt at home ; "Where winding alleys lead the doiiMM way ; The silent court and opening square explore, And long perjDlexing lanes nntrod before." At our left hand the ground rises towards the triangular en- closure known as Xorth Square. In front of us, on the north- east corner of North and liich- mond, is a brick building to which tradition has long attached the im- portance of standing on the site of the first Colonial Custom House, under Edward Randolph and his successors. Evidence is wanted to support this statement, — an im- portant one in the investigation of the old landmarks ; but the tra- dition is firmly fixed in the minds of old residents of the North End, and is generally credited. When the old building was taken down, about twenty years ago, many a pilgrimage was made to it and the wish expressed that its walls could speak. Randolph was Collector in 1681, but the " Bostoneers," as Hutchinson calls them, refused to recognize his office. He had been appointed " Collector, Surveyor, and Searcher " in New England. His authority was treated with contempt by Gover- nor Leverett, who sat with his hat on while the King's letter of appointment was being read before the Council. His public notification of the establishment of his office posted at the Town House was torn down by an officer of the Court. In 1682, NEW BRICK CHURCH. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 157 fearing they liad gone too far in resistance to the King's com- mands, the Court estaljHshed a Custom House, but the h)ss of tlic Colonial Charter soon followed. The removal of the papers belonging to this department at the evacuation of Boston leaves few materials wherewith to establish its history, and these are connected by imperfect links. The old building was long known as the "Eed Lyon Inn," prominent among the early North End taverns. The tablet in the front of the building bears the initials of the Wads worths, former proprietors. The old " Ked Lyon " gave its name to Upshall's wharf below, which became lied Lyon Wharf The ordinary itself was one of the oldest, and was kept by Nicholas Upshall probably as early as 1G54, when he had a number of soldiers billeted upon him, and certainly in 1G6G. He was one of the first to feel the rigor of the persecution of the Quakers. He was banished, imprisoned, and at length in his old age died a martyr to the ftiith which, amid all his sufferings and hard- ships, he seems stoutly to have upheld. He was in Boston as early as 1637, and then owner of all the property on the north- east side of liichmond Street from Hanover Street to the water. His first banishment was for an attempt to bribe the keeper of Boston jail to give food to two starving Quaker women in his charge. Upshall was one of the first members of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company ; his remains lie in Copp's Hill Cemetery, and his friends the Quakers were not forgotten in his will. As little as North S(piare is known to the present generation, few localities can surpass it in the interest which attaches to the historic personages who have dwelt within its confined area. But our readers shall judge as we proceed. Standing before an entrance still narrow, the relics of demol- ished walls on our right show that the original opening was once even more cramped than now, and scarce permitted the passage of a vehicle. The point made ])y North Street reached considerably beyond the present curl)stone some distance into the street, both sides of which were cut off when the widening took place. This headland of brick and mortar, jutting out 158 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. into old Fish Street as a bulwark to protect the aristocratic residents of the square, was long known as " Mountfort's Cor- ner," from the family owning and occupying it. It was the established custom of those early times to fix the limits of the streets from corner to corner. Thus Fish Street is described in 1708 as "from Mountjoy's corner, lower end of Cross Street, northerly to the sign of the Swan, by Scarlett's Wharf." Opposite to us, reached by a little alley from the street, was the residence of Dr. Snow, the historian of Boston. AVhere we stand, a narrow passage opens at our left hand, through which, beyond the crazy tenements, we see the brick walls of the Second Church. Through this passage Governor Hutchin- son is said to have passed from his residence to the old church, a door having been constructed in the rear of that edifice ex- pressly for his excellency's convenience. Fronting the street and bounding upon this alley was the residence of Francis Shaw, father of Samuel Shaw, the Revo- lutionary soldier, and grandfather of Robert G. Shaw, the wealthy merchant and pliilanthropist. In this house were the quarters of the old Major of Marines Pitcairn, and Lieutenant Wragg of the same corps. Troops were scattered in detach- ments throughout the North End, a cordon extending from the works on Copp's Hill to the South Battery. North Square was the rendezvous for those nearest the battery, and Pitcairn appears to have been intrusted with the supervision of his quarter. Young Shaw, who became a major in the Continental army, served in the Revolution from the begiiniing to its close, first as a lieutenant in Knox's artillery, rising by successive grades to be a captain of artillery in 1 780. He was secretary of the officers who formed the Society of the Cincinnati, major and aide-de-camp to General Knox, his old commander, at the peace, and was appointed by him to a post in his bureau when secretary-at-war. In 1794 ]\Iajor Shaw received an appointment as consul to China from "Washington, and sailed for that country in the first American ship that ever set sail for those shores. On this voyage he died, and his epitaph may be seen on the FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 159 family monument in Copp's Hill. The company of artillery attached to the Boston regiment gave to the Continental ser- vice upwards of forty young men, most of whom became dis- tinguished officers of that arm. A tradition is preserved that Wragg, the lieutenant of ma- rines, one day made some remark at the family board dispar- aging the "rebels," whereupon he was challenged by young Samuel Shaw. The interposition of Pitcairn, it is said, pre- vented a hostile meeting. Proceeding up the square, which still preserves its cobble- stone pavement, we pass a tottering, ruinous wooden building said to have been once in the family of Commodore Downes, and come to another somewhat fresher specimen of the same order. This was the habitation of Paul Revere, and his prob- able birthplace. From this house he gave the striking exhi- bition of transparencies on the evening of the anniversary of the Massacre. AVe have found Revere at his shop in Cornhill, and briefly alluded to his engraving on copper, his lirst efforts having been on silver plate. He also engraved the plates, made the press, and printed the paper money for the Provincial Congress at Watertown. The house has not altered in appear- ance in fifty years. On the other side the square stood the old Town Pump, in front of the present ]N'aval Rendezvous. One of the old town watch-houses was near at hand. Among the older families resident here were the Holyokes. The father of the celebrated President of Harvard was a re- spectable soap-boiler. AVithin the compass of a few rods we find buildings of undeniable antiquity, some extremely ruinous, with shattered panes and leaky roofs, while others, improved upon to suit more modern tenants, have the jaunty air of an old beau in modern habiliments. One patriarch stands at the corner of Sun Court and Moon Street. Its upper story projects after the fashion of the last century ; the timbers, which tradition says were cut in the neighborhood, are of prodigious thickness, while the clapboards are fastened Avith wrought nails. If the 160 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. fathers of Boston had not huilt strongly, these relics would not now be left to us. Their chimneys were a marvel, and contain the materials for a good-sized modern dwelling. This narrow, contracted sj)ace was once the court end of the town. It was first called Clark's Square, from an old resident, and afterwards Frizell's Square. Where now is a brick block facing the square was built the Second Church in Boston, better known as the Old I^orth. This was the church of the Mathers, — Samuel, Increase, Cotton, and Samuel the son of Cotton. Built in 1G50, it was destroyed by fire in 167 Q, and rebuilt the next year. Both houses were of wood, and the latter edifice was pulled down in the winter of 1775-76 for fuel, as were also upwards of a hundred other wooden buildings. General Howe sanctioned the act. Dr. Lathrop says : " No records of the Old North Church exist for more than a year after the memorable 19th of April. At this time most of the churches in town were broken up, and the greatest part of the inhabitants went into the country. Wliile the pastor and members were dispersed, a number of evil-minded men of the King's party obtained leave of General Howe to puLL it down." The society then joined tne New Brick, which took the name of the Second Church. Cotton Mather, the son of Increase and grandson of John Cotton, is regarded as the most celebrated of the Boston clergy. A Bostonian by birth, he graduated with honor at Harvard, and was a scholar of high attainments. Mather was a prolific author, and his numerous works are valuable contributions to the early history of New England. He was a firm believer in witchcraft, and his name is identified Avith the persecution of the unfortunates who fell under the ban of suspicion. Samuel and Increase Mather were sons of Rev. Richard Mather, who was settled in Dorchester in 1636. Both were men of learning and high consideration. Increase received the first degree of D. D. conferred in America. He went to Eng- land as agent of the colony, and returned in 1692 with the. new charter. Unlike his son, he did not pursue the witchcraft delusion, which desolated so many homes and left an indelible blot upon our history. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. IGl Cotton Mather lived on Hanover Street, in a house built by Cajitain Turcll. It was not far from the Cockerel Church on the oi)posite side of the street, and was afterwards occupied by- Master Harris of the North Grammar School. Samuel blather lived on tlie east side of Moon Street, about midway from Sun Court to Fleet Street, on the corner of what was formerly known as Moon Street Court. The house was demolished about 1832, and a tobacco warehouse erected on the site, which became afterwards a Catholic Church. Increase Mather lived on Xorth Street, near Clark, in a house afterwards used as a seamen's boarding-house. During the year 1676, when great scarcity prevailed, Dr. Increase blather procured from his friends in Dubhn a ship- load of provisions. Boston paid this debt of long standing with interest, when she sent by R. B. Forbes a ship laden with food for the starving in Ireland. The following version of the humorous pen photographs of the Boston clergy of 1774 is from Mrs. Crocker's memoir. There were two distinct productions, which appear somewhat intermixed in the published versions. The lines given here were the first to appear, and were attributed to Dr. Benjamin Church. They were the rage of the town : — " Old Mather's race will not disgrace Their iiohle pedigree, And Charles Old Brick * both well and sick t Will plead for liberty. Tliere 's puffing Pern, f who does condemn All Freedom's noble sons, And Andrew Sly, J who oft draws nigh To Tommy skin and bones. § In Brattle Street we seldom meet With silver-tongned Sam, || Who smoothly glides between both sides And so escapes a jam. There 's Penuel Puff, If is hearty enough, And so is Simeon Howard j And Long Lane Teague ** will join the league And never prove a coward. * Chauncy. f Pemberton. % Eliot. § Hutchinson. II Cooper. ^ Bowen. ** Moorhead. E 162 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. There 's little Hopper,* if you think proper. In Liberty's cause so bold, And John Old North, f for little worth, Won't sacrifice for gold. Tliere 's puny John :}: from North Hampton, A meek mouth moderate man. And colleague stout, § who, without doubt, Is linked in tory clan." According to Mrs. Crocker, the residence of Samuel Mather in North Square was built by Cai3tain Kemble, who in 1673 was condemned to stand in the stocks two hours for lewd and unseemly conduct in saluting his wife at the step of the door, on the Sabbath day, when he first met her after three years' absence. His daughter, Mrs. Sarah Knight, kept in the same house a school, said to have been the first writing-school in that part of the town, from 1701 till her death in 1708. Dr. Mather afterwards occupied the same premises. All three of the Mathers are interred in Copp's Hill. Mrs. Crocker, here referred to, was a granddaughter of Cotton Mather. It was she whom Frank- lin told that he was born at the Blue Ball in Union Street. On the corner of Garden Court and Prince Streets, formerly Bell Alley, was the residence of Sir Charles Henry Frank- land, who was Collector of Boston in 1741 under Governor Shirley. He was said to have been removed from this office for inattention to its duties. Sir Charles led a romantic and eventful life. On one of his official visits to Marblehead he met with the lovely Agnes Surriage, maid-of-all-work at the inn. The attachment he conceived for her appears to have been returned, though Sir Charles did not offer her marriage. " The old, old story, — fair and young. And fond, — and not too wise, — Tliat matrons tell, with sharpened tongue. To maids with downcast eyes." Sir Charles had a fine estate at Hopkinton, Mass., where he delighted to pass the time with his beautiful companion. Ee- turning to England, Agnes was made to feel the scorn of her noble lover's family, and the pair went to Portugal. They were at Lisbon during the great earthquake of November 1, * StiUman. + Lathrop. J Hunt. § Bacon. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 163 1755, in which Sir Charles, while riding out, was overwhelmed by the falling ruins. The faithful Agnes succeeded in reaching and rescuing the entombed baronet, and carried him bruised and bleeding to their apartments. For this act of heroism the poor Marblehead girl became Lady Frankland. She survived her lord, and resided, until the breaking out of the Revolution, principally on the estate at Hopkinton, when she returned to England. The following lines were addressed to Sir H. Frank- land on receiving the present of a box of lemons, by S. M. (supposed to be Samuel Mather), February 20, 1757 : — "You Icnow from Eastern India came The skill of making punch, as did tlie name ; And as the name consists of letters five. By five ingredients it is kept alive. To purest water sugar must be joined, With these the grateful acid is combined ; Some any sours they get contented use, But men of taste do that from Tagus choose. Wlien now these three are mixed Avith care, Then added be of spirit a small share ; And that you may the drink quite perfect see. Atop the musky nut must grated be. " The Frankland estate at Hopkinton is now owned by Eev. Mr. !N'ason, who has written a most interesting account of its former possessor. Sir Charles attended King's Chapel in Eoston. The house in which the baronet resided was built by "William Clark, for whom the square and wharf were named. He was contemporary with the elder Hutchinson, Faneuil, Belcher, and Hancock, who may be said to have controlled in their day the commerce of Boston. He was also a Council- lor of the Province, and a man of marked distinction in the affairs of the town. Clark, it is said, met with reverses in the French wars, losing forty sail of vessels, which so impaired his fortune and depressed his spirits that he died soon after. He was one of the original attendants at Christ Church, and is buried in Copp's Hill in a tomb on which is blazoned the family arms. The Clark-Frankland house was a monument of human ]iride. In all colonial Boston we have not met with its peer, and it was 164 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. SIR H. FRANKLAND'S HOUSE. without cloubt built to outvie that of Hutchinson, Clark's wealthy neighbor. A brick dwelling of three stories was, in itself, a unique feature for the period in which it was con- structed ; its solid brick walls were traversed by belts at each stage. The tiers of windows at either end of the front were narrower than the others, and opened upon closets that would have gladdened the eyes of modern housekeepers and put mod- ern architecture to the blush. The entrance door was low, a common fault in our old builders ; but what was unusual, the different flats or stories were ten feet in the clear. The dormer windows in the roof varied enough in form to break the mo- notony of the outline. Entering by the front on Garden Court upon a hall twelve feet wide, you were ushered into a reception-room, or saloon, at the right of the hall of entrance. You walked on a floor cu- riously inlaid with alternate squares of pine and cedar, much after the fashion in vogue at the present day. Exactly in the FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NORTH BATTERY. 165 middle of the floor was a centre-piece of a yard sijuare, on wliicli the mechanic had exjDended his utmost skill. The pieces of variegated wood were beautifully interwoven around a shield bearing the family device, — a bar with three white swans. This was before the day of carpets, when floors were kept brightly polished, even by the poorer classes. The walls were wainscoted around and divided by wooden pilasters into compartments with panels, on each of which was painted armorial bearings, landscapes, or ruins. Similar panels in the wainscot were ornamented with various devices. A heavy moulding of wood, supported by the gilded capitals of the pilasters, enclosed the ceiling. One of the panels of this room bore an exact resemblance of the building, from a copy of wliicli our engraving is taken. The house was similarly finished Avith wooden pilasters in every story. Some of the mantels were exquisitely carved in imitation of fruit and flowers. There has been preserved a picture taken from a compartment built expressly for it into the wall, representing two children richly attired and of a tender age. Conjecture has been busy as to the authorship of this really fine woi% of art. It is evidently antecedent to Copley, and may have been from the pencil of Smibert. This relic, together with others, is in the possession of Eowland Ellis, Esq., of this city. After the death of the baronet, he gave the house to the widowed Lady Agnes, who resided in it for a time. It ulti- mately came into possession of the Ellis flimily, during whose occupancy the entrance was somewhat enlarged, and tlie old wooden fence replaced by one of iron. The native hue of the brick had been improved upon with yellow paint. The con- version of old B;ill Alley into an extension of Prince Street cut off a considerable portion of the building, and it was taken down. Mr. Cooper, the novelist, visited the Frankland house and examined it minutely before he wrote " Lionel Lincoln," in which the house is described as the residence of Mrs. Lochmere and located in Treinont Street. ^Mr. Cooper talks about the " salient lions " of the tesselated floor, into wliich a fertile im- 166 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. agination converted the peaceful swans of the Clarks. It. should be observed that the coat of arms in Copp's Hill bears a leafless branch, and is otherwise different from the escutcheon of the floor. Bedford Webster, an old Boston apothecary, and father of John White Webster, the slayer of Dr. Parkman, also lived in the house we have been describing. Next to Sir Charles Frankland, on Garden Court, resided Thomas Hutchinson. Under his administration, as lieutenant- governor and governor, were enacted the most turbulent scenes that preceded the Revolution. By birth a Bostonian, his love for oflice led him at length into a position of antagonism with his countrymen. Bancroft describes him as sordid and ava- ricious, smuggling goods and using every means to put money in his purse. By his townsmen he was nicknamed " Stingy Tommy." He held at one time the offices of lieutenant-gover- nor, member of the Council, commander of the castle, judge of probate, and chief justice of the Supreme Court. Dr. Franklin, in 1772, obtained possession in England of some of Hutchinson's confidential letters, which he forwarded to this country. They showed that Hutchinson had advocated the most repressive measures by the home government. On the night of the 26th of August, 1765, during the Stamp Act troubles, the mob attacked and sacked the governor's ele- gant mansion, destroying his furniture, drinking his wine, and scattering the streets far and wide with the debris. The gover- nor and family escaped personal violence, but an irreparable injury occurred in the destruction of the valuable library and manuscripts, — for Hutchinson was a man of literary tastes and scholastic attainments. Hutchinson at first took refuge with his sister at the house of Dr. Samuel Mather in Moon Street. The mob, however, demanded his person, and he was compelled to retreat by a back way to the house of Thomas Edes, a baker, guided by little Hannah Mather, as she herself relates. Here he remained during the night, returning to his brother's house to breakfast. The next day he was compelled to open court without gown or wig, both having been destroyed by the mob. FROM BOSTON STONE TO THE NOKTII BATTERY. 1G7 The Massacre increased his unpopularity, although he appeared on the scene and censured the unauthorized and fatal action of Captain Preston. The destruction of the tea in December, 1773, was followed in a few months by the governor's depar- ture for England. The governor's mansion-house has been minutely described by Lydia Maria Child in the " Rebels." The house was of brick, painted a neutral tint, and was ornamented in front with four Corinthian pilasters. One of the capitals of these is now in the Historical Library. The crown of Britain surmounted each window. The hall of entrance displayed a spacious arch, from the roof of which a dimly lighted lamp gave a rich twi- light view. The finely carved and gilded arch in massy mag- nificence was most tastefully ornamented with busts and statues. The light streamed full on the soul-beaming countenance of Cicero, and playfully flickered on the brow of Tulliola. The panelling of the parlor was of the dark, richly shaded mahog- any of St. Domingo, and ornamented with the same elaborate skill as the hall just quitted. The busts of George III. and his young queen were placed in front of a splendid mirror, with bronze lamps on each side covered with beautiful transparencies, one representing the destruction of the Spanish Armada, the other giving a fine view of a fleet of line-of-battle ships drawn up before the Eock of Gibraltar. On either side of the room were arches surmounted with the arms of England. The library was hung with tapestry, representing the coronation of George II., interspersed with the royal arms. The portraits of Anne and the Georges hung in massive frames of anti(pie splendor, and the crowded shelves were surmounted with l)usts of the house of Stuart. In the centre of the apartment stood a table of polished oak. The gardens of the old mansion extended back to Hanover and to Fleet Streets. In 1834 the building was taken down, and ceased to be a noted attraction of the Xorth End. Governor Hutchinson received a pension and was reimbursed for his ])ecnniary losses, but died at last, it is said, of a broken heart. On l^ope Day Hutchinson's effigy was often exhibited with two faces. 1G8 LANDMAK'KS OF BOSTON. Tlio Ilutcliinson ][(m.s('- was l)uilt iibout 1710 by Tliomas Hutcliiiison, iailicr of the governor, who wuh born in it the year followiiii;-. The estate was entailed to tlie inalo lieirs, l)ut was eonliseated iuul sohl for a mere song. Tlie ])i"eniises after- wai'ds iKM'iune tli(! ])r()perty of WilHani Little, at which time Mrs. ('liild visited tliciii. (Jeiicral flohn 1*. Doyd also lived in the Hutchinson house. lie had been in tlie service of the native East Indian princes, witli a force raised and e(iui})i)ed by liimself. Keturning to the United States, he, I'e-entered the army as colonel of the 4th iid'antry, and commanded at Fort Independence when tlie em- bargo of I (SOI) was laid. (Jeneral l>oyd distinguished himself greatly at 'rijjpe-canoe, Williamsburg, and Fort (Jeorgci during the campaigns ol" I y the addition of a third story in the present century, and was used in 1830 as an Asylum for Indigent Boys. The governor's name is remembered in Phips Place, near at hand. Governor Phips's origin was obscure. An api)rentice to a ship-carpenter in early youth, he is naturally found among his craftsmen of the Xortli End. He received knighthood for the recovery of £ 300,000 of treasure, in 1087, from a sunken Spanish galleon, near the Bahamas, all of wliich he turned over to the English government, receiving £ 10,000 as his share. He made two expeditions against Canada in 1090, — 210 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. one against Quebec, resulting unsuccessfully, and another in which his fleet captured Port Royal. It is said he received liis appointment through the influence of Increase Mather, while the doctor was agent for the colony in England. The occasion of the governor's arrival in Boston, May, 1692, was one of great rejoicing. On the 16th he was escorted from his dwelling to the State House by the Boston Eegiment and com2:)anies from Charlestown, with the magistrates and people, not only of Boston, but the neighboring towns. The new charter and the governor's commission were then read from the balcony, according to custom, and the old governor, Bradstreet, vacated his oflice. A banquet closed the ceremonies. Dr. Cotton Mather says Phips dreamed when a poor boy that he would become rich and build liim a house on the Green Lane, the ancient name of Salem Street. He lived to realize his dream, and become the head of the colony. Sir William was a man of ungovernable temper. He assaulted Brenton, the collector of the port, and caned Captain Short, of the Nonesuch frigate. He was of large stature and great per- sonal strength, which made these personal conflicts undesirable to his foes. An instance is given of his having acted a Crom- wellian part. Having procured, by a bare majority, the passage of an act prohibiting any but residents of the town they repre- sented to be members of the General Court, Sir William rushed into the chamber and drove out the non-resident representa- tives, who did not stand upon the order of their going, but left the governor master of the field. Governor Phips was a mem- ber of the Old North under the ministration of the Mathers. Aside from his impetuous disposition, he is described as a man of sterling traits. He died in London in 1695, and was buried in the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, where a long epitaph commemorates his life and public services. Hutchinson relates that once in Sir William's absence his wife, whose name was Mary (William and IVIary were the reigning sovereigns), was applied to in behalf of a poor woman who had been committed under a charge of witchcraft, and that out of the goodness of her heart she signed a warrant for the COPP S HILL AND THE A'ICINITY, 211 woman's discharge, which mandate was obeyed by the keeper of the jail witliout (juestion, but with the vdtimate loss of his place. In Charter Street lived the ancestors of John Foster Wil- liams, who, in the jNIassachusetts frigate Protector, of twenty- six guns, sunk the English ship Admiral Duff, of thirty guns, diu'ing the Revolutionary War. In this action Preble, after- wards commodore, was a midshipman with Williams, who died in Boston in 1814. Foster Street, now Clark, was intended to perpetuate the old family. Paul Revere, the fidus Achates of Warren, lived and died in a house in Charter Street which he bought near the close of the war of Independence. It stood near Hanover Street, on the west side, where Revere Place now is. Spencer Phips^ afterwards lieutenant-governor, was origi- nally named David Bennet, but took the name of his Uncle Phips when adopted by him. He also lived in Sir William's house. Spencer Phips was in office while William Shirley was governor, and was of course overshadowed by that remark- able man. Phips was succeeded by Hutchinson at his death in 1757. / Hull Street bounds the cemetery on the south. It is named for John Hull, through whose pasture it was laid out, and was conveyed to the town by Judge Samuel Sewall and wife, on the express condition that it should always bear that name. John Hull, the primitive owner of this field, is fimed as the coiner of the first money in New Eng- land. The scarcity of silver in the col- ony for a circulating medium seems to have rendered the step necessary. The colonists being pur- chasers as yet, the bullion flowed out of tli<^ country. In the " History and Anti(piities of Boston" it is remarked : — " It was no small stretch of authority for a Colony or a Proviure to presume to coin mone^'' ; but this Colony was now very peculiarly NE-TRF,E SIULLIXC. 212 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. situated, and its presumption in taking this step was greatly favored by tlie recent state of affairs in the mother country." The mint was established at John Hull, the silversmith's, house, and he and his coadjutor, Eobert Sanderson, took oath that all the money coined by them should " be of the just alloy of the English cojne ; that every shilling should be of due weight, namely, three penny troj weight, and all other pieces proportionably, so neere as they could." This was, in 1652, the origin of the old pine - tree shilling. Hull's house was the same formerly owned by Rev. John Cotton. In 1654 an order of the Gen- eral Court prohibited the transportation out of its jurisdiction of more than twenty shillings " for necessary expenses " by any person. Searchers were appointed " to examine all packs, persons, trunks, chests, boxes or the like." The penalty was the seizure of the whole estate of the offender. Hull began poor, and ended rich, many of his new shillings finding their way into his own strong-box. He was a very worthy man, and a member of the First Church under Eev. John Wilson. He married Judith, the daughter of Edmund Quincy, ancestor of that family in New England. From her is named that much- dreaded point of Narragansett Bay, where Neptune exacts his tribute from voyagers through the Sound. It is said, moreover, that Hannah Hull, his daughter, received for her wedding por- tion her weight in pine-tree shillings when she married Judge Sewall, — a statement probably originating in an ingenious com- putation of the weight of the sum she actually received. " From this marriage," remarks Quincy, " has sprung the eminent family of- the Sewalls, which has given three chief justices to Massa- chusetts and one to Canada, and has been distinguished in every generation by the talents and virtues of its members." COPPS HILL AXD THE VICINITY. 213 Salem Street was, in 170S, from Mr. Pliips's corner in Charter Street to Prince Street ; from thence to Hanover it was Back Street. Christ Church spire has long dominated over tliis locality, and served as a landmark for vessels entering the harbor. It is "the oldest church in Boston standing on its original ground, lia\dng been, erected in 1723, — six years before the Old South. Of the fifteen churches built previous to 1750, only seven occupy their original sites ; the others may be found in the new city which has sprung up as if by magic in tlie old bed of Charles liiver. This was the second Episcopal Church erected in the town. It has been in its day considered one of the chief architectural ornaments of the Xortli End. The body of the church has the plain monotonous style peculiar to all the old houses of wor- sliip, but the steej^le — the design of Charles Ikil- finch — beau- tifies the whole structure. The old steeple was blown down in the great gale of 1804, fall- ing upon an old wooden building at the corner of Tiles- ton Street, through which it crashed, to the consterna- tion of the tenants, who, however, es- CHRIST CHURCH. 1723.* 214 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. caped injury. In rebuilding, the height was shortened about sixteen feet by Joseph Tucker, the builder. Over the entrance is a plain tablet with the name and date of the house. It is generally known that from this steeple — which was visible far and near — warning was given of the intended march to Lexington and Concord. Paul Eevere's narrative gives -a relation of the method : — "On Tuesday evening, the 18th of April, 1775, it was observed that a number of soldiers were marching towards Boston Common. About ten o'clock Dr. Warren sent in great haste for me, and begged that I would immediately set off for Lexington, where were Hancock and Adams, and acquaint them of the movement, and that it was thought they were tlie objects. The Sunday before, by desire of Dr. Warren, I had been to Lexington to see Hancock and Adams, who were at Rev, Mr. Clark's. " I returned at night, through Charlestown. There I agreed with a Colonel Conant and some other gentlemen that if the British went out by water we would show two lanterns hi the North Church steeple, and if by land, one, as a signal ; for we were apprehensive it would be difficult to cross Charles River, or get over Boston Neck. I left Dr. Warren, called upon a friend, and desired him to make the signals. I then went home, took my boots and surtout, went to the north part of the town, where I had kept a boat. Two friends rowed me across Charles River, a little to the eastward, where the Somerset lay. It was then young flood ; the ship was winding, and the moon was rising. They landed me on the Charlestown side. When I got into town, I met Colonel Conant and several others. They said they had seen our signals." Within tlie steeple are hung a chime of bells, placed there in 1744, — the first Avhose cadences gladdened the town. " Low at times and loud at times, And clianging like a poet's rhymes, Rang the beautiful wild chimes. " These bells were from the fixmous West of England foundry of Abel Rudhall, of Gloucester, whose bells have been heard in many a town and hamlet of " Merrie England," Each had an inscription containing its own and much contemporary his- tory, as follows : — COPP'S HILL AND THE VICINITY. 215 FIRST BELL. " Tliis peal of eight bells is the gift of a number of generous persons to Girist Church, in Boston, N. E., Anno 174-4. A. R." SECOND BELL. "Tliis Church was founded in the year 1723. Timothy Cutler, D. D., the first Rector. A. R. 1723." THIRD BELL. " We are the first ring of bells cast for the British Empire in North America. A. R. 1744." FOURTH BELL. " God preserve the Church of England. 1744." FIFTH BELL. "William Shirley, Esq., Governor of the Massachusetts Bay, in New Eng- land. Anno 1744." SIXTH BELL. " The subscription for these bells was begun by John Hammock and Robert Temple, Churcli Wardens, Anno 1743 ; completed by Robert Jenkins and John Gould, Church Wardens, Anno 1744." SEVENTH BELL. *' Since generosity has opened our mouths, our tongues shall ring aloud its praise. 1744." EIGHTH BELL. "Abel Rudhall, of Gloucester, cast us all. Anno 1744." The chimes or " ring of bells," were obtained in England by Dr. Cutler, and were consecrated there. Tliey were invested with the power to dispel evil spirits, — according to p()])idar belief. The same bells still hang in the belfry. Their carillon, vil)rating harmony on the air of a quiet Sabbath, summons the tliird generation for whom they have proclainuMl " ('dory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good-will toward men." The chandeliers used formerly in the church were given by that Captain Gruchy we visited not long since. ^Irs. Crocker's relation is, that they were taken from a Spanisli vessel by one of Gruchy's privateers, and found their way to a Protestant Church instead of a Catholic Cathedral, as was intended. Dr. Cutler, the first rector, lived on the corner of Tileston and Salem Streets, in close proximity to tlie church. The height of tower and .steeple is ITo feet, and the ag^nvgato weight of the bells 7,272 pounds; the smallest weigliing G20 216 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. pounds, the largest 1,545. General Gage, it is said, witnessed from Christ Church steeple the burning of Charlestown and battle of Bunker Hill. In this church is the first monument ever erected to the memory of Washington in our country. Dr. Byles, the rector, left Boston in 1775, and went to St. Johns, New Brunswick, Avhere he was settled as rector and cure of the church of that place. This Dr. Byles was the son of Eev. Mather Byles, the punning parson of Hollis Street. There does not appear to have been a settled pastor after this until 1778. The interior has been considerably changed by alterations. Formerly there was a centre aisle, now closed, as is also the large altar window. The chancel is decorated with paintings creditably executed by a Boston artist. The walls of the church are of great strength, being two feet and a half thick ; the brick are laid in the style of the last century, in what is termed the English Bond, of which but a few specimens remain in Boston. Like many of the old Boston churches, this has its vaults underneath for the reception of the dead, and with them, of course, its legendary lore. In, Shaw it is recorded that " In 1812, while the workmen were employed building tombs, one of them found the earth so loose that he settled his l)ar into it the wliole length with a single effort. The superintendent directed him to proceed till he found solid earth. About six feet below the bot- tom of the cellar he found a coffin covered with a coarse linen cloth sized Avith gum, which, on boiling, became white, and the texture as firm as if it had recently been woven. Within this coffin was another, protected from the air in a similar manner, and the furniture was not in the least injured by time. The flesh was sound, and some- what reseml)ling that of an Egyptian mummy. The skin, when cut, reseml)led leather. The sprigs of evergreen, deposited in the coffin, resembled the broad-leaved myrtle ; the stem was elastic ; the leaves fresh and apparently in a state of vegetation. From the in- scription it was found to be the body of a Mr. Thomas, a native of New England, who died in Bermuda. Some of his familv were amono- the founders .of Christ Church. His remains, when discov- ereil, had been entombed about eighty years." COPP'S HILL AND THE VICINITY. 217 ]\Iajor Pitcairn's remains were interred under tliis church, and thereby hangs another legend. After being twice wounded, Pitcairn raUied his men for a third assault, and received his death- wound while entering the redoubt, falling into the arms of his own son, who bore him to the boat. He was brought across the river and taken to the house of Mr. Stoddard, boat- builder, near the ferry, where he bled to death in a short time. Pitcairn was a large, portly man, and so was Lieutenant Shea, wdiose remains were also deposited under the church. The lat- ter died of fever ; and when, some time after the events of the Revolution, the body of Pitcairn was sent for by his relatives in England, it is said that of Lieutenant Shea was forwarded by mistake. The sexton was at a loss to identify the remains, but the presence of a large blistering plaster on the head of the body he sent to England seems to point to a blunder on his part. It has been questioned whether the monument in "West- minster Abbey to Pitcairn commemorates his bravery and death on the battle-field, or that of a man who died from inflinnma- tion of the brain in his bed. Pitcairn will always be remembered as the leader of the ad- vance-guard who fired on the provincials at Lexington, and began the great drama of the Revolution. He always main- tained that the minute-men fired first, which those present on the American side warndy disputed. This circumstance has associated Pitcairn's name with undeserved obloquy, for he was a brave officer and a kind-hearted man. Of all the British officers in Boston, he alone, it is said, dealt justly and inqiar- tially by the townspeople in their disputes with the troops. His men were warmly attached to him, and declared thoy had lost a father when he fell. Gage sent his own i)hysician to attend him. The bullet which laid the gallant marine low was fired by a negro soldier from Salem. The regiment wliieli he commanded arrived from England in the latter part of J Decem- ber, 1774, in the Asia, Boyne, and Somerset. Rev. William ]\rontague, rector of Christ Church, was the person to whom Arthur Savage gave the ball whicli killed AVar- ren at Bunker Hill. The identity of this ball has been disputed 10 218 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. by some of the martyr's descendants, on the ground that it was said to have been taken from the body, while Warren received his death from a ball in the head. The controversy was main- tained with considerable warmth on both sides, the general opinion favoring the authenticity of the fatal bullet. Arthur Savage was an officer of the customs in Boston, and his state- ment that he took the piece of lead from Warren's body is worthy of belief. Mr. Montague is said to have been the first American Episcopal clergyman ordained in America who preached in an English pulpit. The English officers billeted in this quarter of the town attended Christ Church. Tileston Street is the Love Lane of our ancestors, not from the Hymeneal Deity, — else we may believe it would have been the favorite resort of the North End damsels and their love- lorn swains. It was thus named from the Love family, who owned most of the street. INIrs. Susannah Love sold the ground on which the Eliot School was built, and the name of the lane was changed about 1820, for good old Master John Tileston of that school. Master Tileston presided over the school for two tliirds of a century, and after he became superannuated his salary was continued ; the only instance of the kind in the history of the town or city. He lived at the westerly corner of Margaret and Prince Streets. ]\Iather Byles is said to have first seen the light in Tileston Street. Tlie first Grammar School in this part of the town was erected in Bennet Street in 1713, and was called the North Latin School. Eecompense Wadsworth was the first master. A writing-school was built on the same lot, on Love Lane, in 1718 ; and in 1741, when an enumeration was made, this school had more pupils than all the others combined. Up to 1800 there were but seven schools in the town, and only nine when Boston became a city. Bennet Street was for some time distinguished as North Latin School Street. The old schools were known later as the North Grammar and North Writing, the subsequent name of Eliot being given to honor the memory of the pastors of the Old North Church. Since the city government went into opera- tion it seems to have passed into a custom to name the schools COPP'S HILL AND THE VICINITY. 219 for the mayors. The old school-house stood hy tlie side of the present one, and was the third in the town. Captain Thomas Hutchinson, father of the too-celebrated lieutenant-governor, built tlie house and gave it to the town. Three or four edifices have succeeded the original, the present structure having been dedicated on Forefather's Day, 1859. Mather Byles, Edward Everett, and Dr. Jenks are among the distinguished pupils of the school. Edward Everett lived, in 1802, in Proctor's Lane, now the easterly part of Richmond Street, and in 1804 removed to Richmond Street. His motlier afterwards removed to Xew bury, now AYashington Street, to a house nearly opposite the head of Essex Street. The modern school acquired some notoriety in 1859, from a rebellion of the Catholic pupils against the reading of the Ten Commandments, which caused no little excitement in the old North End. Various attempts have been made from time to time to prohibit the reading of the Scriptures in the public schools, one of whicli gave rise to the following mot of Rufus Choate : " What ! banish the Bible from schools ! Never, while there is a piece of Plymouth Rock left large enough to make a gun-flint of!" At Prince Street we reach the old line of division between Salem Street proper and Back Street. The origin of Salem and Lynn Streets are obvious. Back Street was thus distinguished from Fore, through whicli our readers have followed us in a former chapter. Prince, named from some scion of royalty, has outlived King and Queen. This street was originally from Han- over (^liddle) to the sea, but now reaches into North S(iuare, its easterly terminus. The portion between Salem and Hanover was anciently known as Black Horse Lane, from an old tavern on the corner of Back Street. This tavern, corrupted into Black-us-inn, was noted as a place of refuge and concealment for deserters from Burgoyne's army at Cambridge. It was of considerable antirpiity, the lane being so called before 1700. The royal regulars had barracks on the corner of Prince and Salem Streets in 1775-76. Salem Church, at the corner of North Bennet and Salem 220 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Streets, was organized in 1827. Its formation was coeval with the church in Pine Street, and the dedication occurred January 1, 1828, at which time Eev. Justin Edwards, D. D., was in- stalled. Dr. George W. Blagden, who has recently resigned the pastorate of the Old South, was settled here. The building has a simple, substantial look, but may be classed with those of no special attractive features. Though we would fain linger in the old North End, other sections claim our attention. In it the spirit of resistance to British tyranny was strongly developed, and it contained less of the tory element than some other quarters of the town. The sturdy mechanics of the I^orth End were ever ready to act in the cause of liberty, no matter what the sacrifice might be. Many of her sons gained a noble reputation in the wars of the republic. There was that old sea-lion, John Manly, who held the first naval commission issued by Washington, in 1775. He took, in the Lee, the dangerous cruising-ground of Boston Bay, and captured, in November, the British ordnance brig Nancy, a prize so important to the Continental army that the camps were wild with joy. Among other pieces taken was a heavy brass mortar, which Old Put mounted with a bottle of rum in his hand, while Mifilin christened it the " Congress." The Lee made other im- portant captures; and in 1776 ^lanly was given command of the Hancock frigate, in which he captured the Eox, British man-of-war, but was himself taken prisoner by the Rainbow, a much heavier vessel than his own. He commanded afterwards the Jason and Hague, in both of which he gave evidence that he was a worthy comrade of Paul Jones. Manly was a bluff* but indiscreet seaman, and for some irregularity was court-martialled. He died in 1793, at his house in Charter Street. Another naval hero, still more renowned, was Commodore Samuel Tucker of the old Continental navy, who lived in a three-story brick building on the north side of Elect Street, where now stands a brick stable. His first cruise was in 1776, with a commission signed by Samuel Adams in his pocket, and a pine-tree flag at his peak, made by the hands of his wife. This intrepid sailor took from corr's HILL and the vicinity. 221 the enemy during the war sixty-two sail of vessels, more than six hundred cannon, and three thousand prisoners, ami when at length compelled to surrender the old ^Boston frigate, which he then commanded, to the British squadron at Charleston, he kept his flag flying until Admiral Arbuthnot sent him a special order to lower it. Tucker's reply was, " I do not think much of striking my flag to your present force ; but I have struck more of your flags than are now flying in this har])or." Commodore Tucker carried John Adams to Bordeaux in 1778, "through the six-and-twenty misfortunes of HarkHpiin." l)ur- ing this voyage the sliip was struck by lightning, and the Com- modore narrowly escaped death from the fragments of a falling spar. His ser\dces, which it is believed were unsurpassed by those of any of his comrades of the old navy, met with tardy requital from the nation. According to his l)iogra})her, ^Ir. Sheppard, he retired in 1793 to a farm in Bristol, ^Maine. John Adams, in speaking of a visit from Tucker, says, " When I see or hear of or from one of these old ^len, whether in civil, political, military, or naval service, my heart feels." The brave Lieutenant James Sigourney, who commanded the armed schooner Asp, and fell heroically flghting in an engage- ment with a British flotilla in Chesapeake Bay in 1812, — Cap- tain Samuel XeA\anan, lieutenant in Craft's Artillery in the early part of the Revolution; serving in the navy under Xicholson in the Deane in 1782 ; killed in St. Clair's battle Avith the :\liami Indians, — Colonel Josiah Snelling, flghting against the Indians and distinguished at Tippecanoe ; afterwards at York, Platts- burg, and other fields ; finally colonel of the 5th United States infantry, and giving his name to Fort Snelling, — Colonel John Mountfort, bre vetted for gallantry at Piatt sburg, and distin- guished in the Florida war, — Captain Samuel ^Vrmstrong, a sol- dier of 1812, — and Lieutenant Bobert Keith, wlio served under Macomb at Plattsburg ; all lived in the North I'Jid. Kext north of Christ Chun^h was a large brick building, end to the street, occupied more than fifty years ago as a type and stereotype foundry ; a part of the site next the church av;;s afterwards used for an academy. The north corner of Tileston, 222 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. at its junction with Hanover Street, was the home of Professor Henry J. Eipley, of the Newton Theological Institute. At the northerly corner of Sheaffe and Salem Streets was the residence of Dr. Samuel Stillman, the well-known pastor of the First Baptist Church from 17G5 to his death in 1807. From him Stillman Street takes its name. He preached eloquently in the cause of liberty in his house of worship in the rear of Salem, near Stillman Street. This church, once cowering under the lash of bigotry, seeking to hide itself in an obscure corner of the town, is now translated to tlie highest eminence in the city, and towers majestically over the neighboring steeples. The First Baptist Church, like the Episcopal, had to struggle against the determination of the magistrates, backed by a ma- jority of the people, to permit no other church than their own to obtain a foothold in their midst. A few individuals consti- tuted the church in Charlestown in May, 1665, but were driven by persecution to a private dwelling on Noddle's Island. They erected their church in Boston without exciting the suspicion of the authorities, until its dedication in February, 1679. This act of contumacy was summarily dealt with. The church doors were nailed up, and the following notice posted upon them : — " All persons are to take notice, that by order of the court, the doors of this house are shut up, and that they are inhibited to hold any meeting, or to open the doors thereof, without license from au- thority, till the General Court take further order, as they will answer the contrary at their peril. " Dated at Boston 8th March 1680, Edward Rawson Secretary." The first house was erected on the banks of the ]\Iill Pond, on the north side of Stillman Street, between Salem and Pond (now Endicott) Streets. This house was replaced by a larger one, also of wood, in 1771, and abandoned in 1829, when the society took possession of the brick building now standing at the corner of Hanover and Union Streets. This was in turn vacated in 1858 for the edifice in Somerset Street. In Baldwin Place — since become the Home of Little AVan- derers — is the house of the Second Baptist Church. This so- ciety organized in 1743, and held their first services at the house COPP'S HILL AND THE VICINITY. 223 of James Bowncl in SheafFc Street, near Copp's Hill, removing later to Proctor's School-house, until March, 174G, when they took possession of their new building upon the spot first men- tioned. The first house was of wood, and quite small, having near the head of the broad aisle a basin for baptismal purposes. It was superseded, in 1810, by the present brick structure. In Salem Street was the old printing-office of Zachariah Fowle, — first the master and then the partner of Isaiah Thomas, — in which was printed the old Massachusetts Spy in 1770, until Thomas dissolved his connection with Fowle and opened his office in School Street, near the Latin School. Thomas, whose paper was a high organ of liberty, was ordered to appear once before Governor Hutchinson for a pubKcation reflecting on the executive, but refused to go. He removed his types, press, etc., to Worcester a few days before the battle of Lexington. This was the origin of the Worcester Spy. Later he opened a bookstore at 45 Xewbury Street, under the name of Thomas and Andrews, but did not reside in Boston. Oliver Ditson & Co. now occupy the spot. Many old buildings still remain in Salem, Prince, Charter, and the neighboring streets. Over the apothecary's door, at the corner of Salem and Prince Streets, is an antique head of JEs- culapius, or some follower of the curative art, which is the oldest sign now known in the North End. Many years ago it stood at the edge of tlie sidewalk affixed to a post, but, ob- structing the way, it was removed. This is believed to be the oldest apothecary's stand in Boston now used for that purjiose. Eobert Fennelly was the ancient dispenser of pills and purga- tives on this corner. In the slums of the North End originated the draft riot of 1863. The officers who attempted to serve the notices in Prince Street were cruelly beaten, and the mob, gathering courage from its triumph over a handful of police, reinforced from the purlieus of Endicott, Charlestown, and neighboring streets, made an attempt to seize the cannon kept at the gun- house in Cooper Street, Avhich was held by a little band of regulars from Fort Warren. The rioters had killed and wounded 224 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. several of the garrison, and had nearly succeeded in demolish- ing the doors, when the guns were discharged into the mob with fatal effect. After withstanding for a few moments the fusil- lade from the small arms of the soldiers, the crowd gave way, moving towards Dock Square, where they expected to secure a supply of weapons by breaking open the store of William lieed and other dealers in arms in that vicinity. Eight of the rioters were known to have been killed, but those who fell were re- moved by their friends, and no authentic data can be given. Traces of this affair may yet be seen in the dwelling opposite the gun-house, the brick walls of which were scarred by the discharge of grape at point-blank distance. THE OLD SOUTH AND PIiOVl^XE HOUSE. 225 CHAPTEE YIII. THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. Marlborough Street. — Governor Winthrop . — Old South. — Warren's Ora- tions. — Tea-Party Meeting. — British Occupation. — Phillis Wheatley. — Spring Lane. — Heart and CroAVu. — Boston Evening Post. — Province House. — Samuel Shute. — William Burnet. — William Shirley. — Thomas Pownall. — Francis Bernard. — General Gage. — Lexington Expedition. — Sir William Howe. — Comicil of War. — Court Dress and IManners. — Governor Strong. — Blue Bell and Indian Queen. — Lieutenant-Governor Gushing. — Josiah Quiucy, Jr. — Mayor Qmncy. THAT part of AYashington Street lying between Scliool and Summer Streets was, in 1 708, named jNIarlborougli Street, from the great duke whom Thackeray irreverently calls Jack Churchill, — the man of Blenheim, Eamillies, Oudenarde, and ]\Ialplaquet. The Marlboro Hotel still perpetuates the name. As we stand at the south corner of School Street at its union with Washington, a collection of old buildings faces us extend- ing from the yard of the church nearly to Spring Lane. This, together with the church property, was a part of the estate of one of the greatest men among the early colonists, John AVin- throp. The house of the first governor of this band of Puritans stood nearly opposite to us. It was of wood, the frame being removed from Cambridge, or Newtown as the early settlers then called it. This removal was the cause of a misunderstanding between the governor and the deputy, Dudley, but matters were accommodated to the content of both parties. In the Introduction some account is given of the character of "Win- throp's ha})itation, which remained standing nearly a century and a half, until demolished by the British soldiery in 1775. So the roof that sheltered Winthrop went to light the mess-fires of liis Majesty's troops, or to diffuse warmtli through tlie apart- ments of Gage or Howe in the Province House. The life of Winthrop is the history of the Colony. It ai>- 10* o 226 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. pears in connection with its affairs, or the biographies of his contemporaries. Under his rule church and state were one ; and the idea of tolerating any belief but their own was repug- nant to the practice, whatever may have been the theory, of the then colonists. Winthrop was one of the first selectmen of Boston, and more than any other moulded its government. The remarkable affair of Anne Hutcliinson, in which so many persons of importance were participants, shook to its centre the social and religious fabric Winthrop had assisted to raise, and left him at variance with Sir Henry Yane, next to himself the most considerable man in the infant colony. His rule was iron towards all who professed any but the orthodox faith, until a short time before his death, when, it is said, he refused to sign an order for the banishment of some dissenting person, saying to Dudley that he had done too much of that work already. The Pequot war, begun while Vane was governor, ended under Winthrop. So far as the neighboring Indians were concerned, the governor maintained peace by a firm yet conciliatory policy. The chiefs were entertained at his table, and greatly edified by the governer's domestic economy. Chicataubut refused to eat until his host said grace, and received at his departure a suit of the governor's clothes, in which he strutted home to his wigwam with increased importance. According to the modern view, the governor did not favor popular government ; his opinion being that wisdom resided in the few. As a man he was less inflexible than as a magistrate, for it is related that he reclaimed a thief whom he detected stealing his wood in the following manner. " Friend," said the governor, " it is a very cold season, and I doubt you are poorly provided with wood ; you are welcome to supply yourself at my pile till the winter is over." The governor had four wives, and lost not only three of these, but six children. His death occurred on the 26th of March, 1G49, at the age of sixty-one. H^e was entombed in King's Chapel Ground, on the north side. One of his sons became governor of Connecticut, and shares his tomb ; a beautiful statue of Winthrop, by Greenough, is in the chapel at Mount Auburn. The governor left a journal of his THE OLD SOUTH AND rROVINCE HOUSE. 227 voyage from Eiiglaud, and of the proceedings in the colony up to his decease, which was edited by James Savage. fSome of the admirers of Governor Winthrop's character have declared him -worthy of canonization, had we like Kome a sacred cal- ender. The Old South still stands, one of the monuments of Old Boston. Its existence has been often threatened, and erelong per- haps will be swept from its foundations, to appear in new and strange habiliments in a remote part of the city. It is the richest church corporation in the city, and, next to Old Trinity of Kew York, in the country. The Winthrop estate passed through Thatcher and j\Irs. Nor- ton to the church, and in consequence of its central location has be- come of great value. Its parishioners once dwelt within sight of its stee- ple, but now few can be found Avithin sound of its bell. Milk Street, Franklin Street, Sum- mer and Winter, Brom- field and School, have hardly a residence left. Two of them at least the old M-ere once filled with the abodes of the most respectablf inhab- itants of the city, but commerce has said " Move on ! " and tlic the population has vanished before it. Curiously enough, the Old South, arising from a schism in the First Church, like it originated in Charlestown, where also was organized the First Baptist Society. Like the Baptists, 228 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. also, this society was proclaimed against, but erected a house of worship, the third in Boston. The theological disputes, questions of doctrine or church government in which this society originated, however interesting^ cannot be given here. Thomas Thacher was the lirst minister, settled in February, 1670. The first house was of wood, and stood until 1729, when it was taken down to give place to the then new brick edifice. In the front was placed, in 1867, a tablet bearing the .following inscription, so that all who run may thus read a little of the history of the church : — OLD SOUTH. Church gathered 1669. First House built 1670. This House erected, 1729. Desecrated by British Troops, 1775-6. This little memorial contains a succinct account of the church even to the last line, " Desecrated by British Troops," which was strenuously objected to by many at the time the tablet was placed there. The occupation of churches by troops has been common in all wars, notably so in the late Eebellion. Such occupation has not been generally considered as calling for a new consecration, and the use of the word " desecrated " is per- haps not fortunate, though the usage of this house was pecu- liary malicious and repugnant. The name " Old South " goes no further back than the building of the "New South," in Summer Street, in 1717. It was primarily the South Meeting- house, being then considered in the south part of the town. On a stone at the southwest corner of the church is sculp- tured, "N. E. (Newly Erected) March 31, 1729." The possession of the South Meeting-house by Sir Edmund Andros has been stated in connection with King's Chapel. From this church, in 1688, was buried Lady Andros, wife of the arbitrary Knight. The governor' ts house was doubtless in the immediate vicinity of Cotton Hill, as from Jfldge Sewall's account of the funeral we learn thvxt " the corpse was carried THE OLD SOUTH AND PKOVINCE HOUSE. 220 into the hearse drawn by six horses, the soldiers making a guard from the Governor's house down the Prison L;inu to the South Meeting House." The tomb of Lady Anne An- dros was identified by the care of a relative, who found a slab, Avith her name inscribed, while repairing her last resting- place. jS'one of the city churches are so rich in historical associa- tions as this. Here Lovell, Church, AVarren, and Hancock delivered their orations on the anniversaries of the Massacre. When Warren delivered his second address in March, 1775, an officer of the AYelsh Fusileers, Captain Chapman, held up to his view a number of pistol-bullets, at the same time exclaim- ing, " Fie ! fie ! " This was construed to be a cry of fire, and threw the house into confusion until quieted by AVilliam Coo- per, wliile Warren dropped a handkerchief over the officer's hand. Many other officers were present with the purpose, as was thought, to overawe the speaker. But Warren was not to be overawed. At the same time the 47th regiment, returning from parade, passed the Old South, when Colonel JVTesbit, the commander caused the drums to beat with the view of drown- ing the orator's voice. A AATiter thus describes the events of that day : — " The day came and the weather was remarkably fine. The Old South Meeting-house was crowded at an early hour. The British otiicers occupied the aisles, the flight of steps to the pulji^it, and several of them were within it. It is not precisely knoAVTi whether this was accident or design. The orator with the assistance of his friends made his entrance at the window by a ladder. The officers, seeing his coohiess and intrepidity, made way for him to advance and address the audience. An awful stillness preceiled his exor- dium. Each man felt the palpitations of his own heart, and saw the pale but determined face of his neighbor. The speaker began his oration m a firm tone of voice, and proceeded with gre;it energy and pathos. Warren and his friends were prepared to chiistise con- tumely, prevent disgrace, and avenge an attempt at assassination." In the old church Benjamin Franklin was baptized. In the new, was held the famous Tea-Party meeting, adjourned from 230 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. raiieuil Hall because the crowd was too great to be contained there. It is believed that Samuel Adams had with others con- trived this assemblage to draw off attention from their plans, already matured and waiting only the signal of execution. Certain it is that the Mohawks appeared precisely at the mo- ment when negotiation had failed to prevent the landing of the tea. At this meeting was made the first suggestion to dispose of the tea in the way finally adopted. John Eowe, who lived in Pond Street, now Bedford, said, " Who knows how tea will mingle with salt w^ater 1 " The idea was received with great laughter and approval. It is from the same Eowe that Eowe Street took its name. Governor Hutchinson was at this time at his country-seat in Milton, — afterwards occupied by Barney Smith, Esq., — where he received a committee from the meeting, who made a final demand that the cargoes of tea should be sent away. The governor, however, refused to interfere in the matter. It is re- lated that he was afterwards informed that a mob was on its way to visit him, and that he left his house with his face half shaven, making the best of his way across the fields to a place of safety. During the absence of the committee Josiah Quincy, Jr., made an eloquent speech. When the deputation returned with their unfavorable report, about sunset, the Indian yell was heard at the church door, and the band of disguised Mohawks since so famous in history, filled the street. The meeting broke up in confusion, notwithstanding the efi'orts of Sam- uel Adams to detain the people, who rushed forth into the street. The Indians, after their momentary pause, took their way through Milk Street directly to Griffin's, now Liverpool Wharf. The number of the simulated Indians has been variously estimated at from sixteen to eighty. Their disguise Avas eff'ected in a carpenter's shop, where Joseph Lovering, a boy of twelve, held the candle for the masqueraders. They wore paint and carried hatchets. Under their blankets were concealed many a laced and ruffled coat. " Depend upon it," says Jolm Adams, ^' they were no ordinary Mohawks." THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. 231 The Avomen of Boston Avcre not behind the men in thuir op- position to the tea-duty ; many, doubtless, keenly felt the loss of their favorite beverage. The ladies had their meetings, at which they resolved not to use the obnoxious herb. II(^re is the lament of one matron over her empty urn : — " Farewell the tea-board, with its gaudy equipage Of cups and saucers, cream-Lucket, sugar-tongs. The pretty tea-chest, also, lately stored With Hyson,' Congou, and best double fine. Full luany a joyous moment have I sat by ye. Hearing the girls tattle, the old maids talk scandal. And the spruce coxcomb laugh at — maybe — nothing. Though nov/ detestable. Because I am taught (and I believe it true) Its use will fasten slavish chains iipon my country, To reign Triumphant in America." The occupation of the Old South by troops was at the in- stance of General John Burgoyne. It was his regiment, the Queen's Light Dragoons, that set np the riding-school in the House of God, overthrowing its sacred memorials, and transform- ing it into a circus. These brave troopers never showed their colors outside the fortifications. The pulpit and pews were all removed and burnt, and many hundred loads of gravel carted in and spread upon the floor. The east gallery was reserved for spectators of the feats of horsemanship, while a bar fitted up in the first gallery ofi'ered means of refreshment. " The beautiful carved pew of Deacon Hubbard, with the silken hang- ings, was taken down and carried to 's house by an ofiicer and made a hog stye." '^ The south door was closed, and a leap- ing-bar placed for the horses. It has been stated that some of the valuable books and manuscripts of Bev. Thomas Prince went for fuel during the winter, as did also the adjoining par- sonage house, and the noble sycamore-trees that skirted the grass-plot in front. After the surrender of Burgoyne his army marched to Cam- bridge. General Heath, then commanding in Boston, invdted Sir John to dine with him, and he appeared in response to the invitation, liringing with him riiilli])S and liiedesel. After dinner * Newell's Diary. Tliaclier's Military Journal. 232 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Burgoyne desired to go out of town by way of Charlestown, and General Heath accompanied him to the ferry. The curiosity to see the prisoners was very great, and the inhabitants crowded the streets, windows, and even the house-tops, to gratify it. As the procession was passing the Province House, General Bur- goyne observed to the other generals, " There is the former residence of the governor." Some one in the crowd who heard the remark said, in an audible voice, " And on the other side is the riding-school." A good anecdote is told of the hero of Portugal and Flanders while the prisoner of Gates. " In the height of jocular con- versation Burgoyne told the victor of Saratoga that he was more ht for a midwife than a general. 'Acknowledged,' said Gates, ' for I have delivered you of seven thousand men.' " While the regulars held possession of the church, an incident occurred which frightened the more superstitious among them, so that it was difficult to maintain a guard, as was the custom, at the church door. Among the troops were a good many Scotch Presbyterians, who were not a little fearful of retribu- tive justice for their abuse of the place. Some one, knowing the Scotch belief in apparitions, appeared to the sentinel as the ghost of Dr. Sewall. The Scot yelled with affright to the guard stationed at the Province House, and was with difficulty pacified. When D'Estaing's fleet lay in Boston harbor, in September, 1778, the British fleet, of twenty sail, hove in sight. It was discovered and the alarm given by Mr. Jolm Cutler from the steeple of the Old South. Admiral D'Estaing, who was on shore, immediately put off* for the squadron, and the militia were ordered to the Castle and the works on Noddle's and George's Island, Dorchester Heights, etc., but the enemy made no attempt. The same fleet afterwards made the descent on New Bedford and Martha's Vineyard. The old church has been considerably changed in its interior. It was one of the last to retain the square pews, elevated pulpit, and sounding-board. The upper gallery was altered, a new organ obtained, and the brush of modern art applied to the THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. 233 ceilings ; otlierwdse the house remains much the same as wlicn erected. It had a narrow escape from destruction hy lire many years ago, but was saved by superhuman ellbrts on the part of Isaac Harris, the mast-maker, who ascended to the roof while it was on fire, and succeeded in extinguishing the flames. For this brave act he received a silver pitcher. One of Dr. Sewall's flock was Phillis Wheatley, a woman of color and a slave. She was a pure African, brought to America in 1761, and yet she possessed genius of a high order. She was, in a great measure, self taught, never having received any school education, yet wrote admirable verses. Her poems were collected in a thin volume and pubhshed in London, and have also been reprinted in this country. One of her effusions, ad- dressed to Washington, may be found in Sparks's " Life of Washington " ; it brought an acknowledgment from the general, then at Cambridge, also printed therein. She accom^Danied the son of her master to London in 1773, where she received great notice from the nobility, but soon returned to Boston, where she contracted an unhappy marriage, and died not long after in utter destitution at her house in Court Street. The genuine- ness of her poems was attested by Governors Hutchinson, Han- cock, Bowdoin, her master Wheatley, and ahnost every clergy- man in Boston. The following extract is from her Hymn to the Evening : — " Filled with the praise of Him who gives the light, And draws the sable curtains of the night, Let placid slumbers soothe each weary mind, At mom to wake, more heavenly, more refined ; So shall the labors of the day begin More pure, more guarded from the snares of sin. Night's leaden sceptre seals my drowsy eyes ; Then cease my song, till fair Aurora rise." We have spoken of the trees that of yore graced the green before the governor's house and church. A single horse-chestnut waves its scanty foliage behind the church on the Milk Street side. If you look closely at the masonry of the Old South you will notice that each course is laid with the side and end of the 234 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. brick alternating ; this is known as the Flemish Bond. The West Church, Old Brattle Street, Park Street, and some others, have walls built in the same manner. Gawen Brown, of Bos- ton, made the first clock, esteemed the finest in America. The Prince library was deposited in the tower. Spring Lane recalls the ancient Spring-gate, the natural foun- tain at which Winthrop and Johnson stooped to quench their thirst, and from which, no doubt, Madam Wintlirop and Anne Hutchinson filled their flagons for domestic use. The gentle- women may have paused here for friendly chat, if the rigor of the governor's opposition to the schismatic Anne did not forbid. The handmaid of Elder Thomas Oliver, Winthrop's next neigh- bor on the oj)posite corner of the Spring-gate, fetched her pitcher, like another Eebecca, from this well ; and grim Eichard Brack- *ett, the jailer, may have laid down his halberd to quaff a morn- ing draught. Water Street is also self-explanatory ; it descended the incline to the water at Oliver's Dock. We have described elsewhere the primitive aspect of the region from Congress Street to the harbor. A British barrack was in Water Street at the time of the Massacre. At the north corner of Washington and Water Streets was the sign of the " Heart and Crown." It was the printing-office of Thomas Fleet in 1731. After his death, crowns being un- popular, the sign was changed to the " Bible and Heart." Fleet sold books, household goods, etc. In 1735 he began the pubU- cation of the Boston Evening Post, a successor of the Weekly Eehearsal, begun in 1731. Here is one of the Post's advertise- ments ; it would look somewhat strangely in the columns of its modern namesake : — " To be sold by the printer of this paper, the very best Negro Woman in this Town, who has had the Small-Pox and the measles ; is as hearty as a Horse, as brisk as a Bird, and will work like a Beaver. Aug. 23d. 1742." Having taken in the surroundings of the church to the north, we may now set our faces southward and visit in fancy the official residence of the royal deputies. THE OLD SOUTH AND PlfOAlXCE HOUSE. 235 The Province House was one of the last relics of the col- ony to disappear. It has formed the theme of some pleasant fictions by Hawthorne in " Twice-Told Tales," as well as a brief sketch of the edifice not founded in fancy. The Uquid which mine host mixed for the novelist before he set about his re- searches has a smack of reality about it, and may have enlivened his picturesque description. Tliis ancient abode of the royal governors was situated nearly opposite the head of Milk Street. The place is now shut out PROVINCE HOUSE. from the vision of the passer-by by a row of bric.'k stnicturos standing on Washington Street. Uefore tlie erection of any buildings to screen it from view, tlie Province .House stood twenty or thirty paces back from old ^Marlborough Street, with a Iiandsome grass lawn in front, ornamented by two stately oak- 236 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. trees, which reared their verdant tops on either side the gate sej^arating the grounds from the highway, and cast a grateful shade over the approach to the mansion. At either end of the fence were porters' lodges, and the visitor passed over a paved walk to the building. Ample stables stood in the rear. The building itself was a three-story brick structure, sur- mounted by an octagonal cupola. Over all stood the bronze effigy of an Indian, — the chosen emblem of the colony. This figure, which served the purpose of a vane, was of hammered cop- per ; it had glass eyes, and appeared in the act of fitting an arrow to its bow. It was the handiwork of Deacon Shem Drowne. A flight of near twenty massive red freestone steps conducted to the spacious entrance-hall, worthy the vice-regal dwellers within. A portico supported by wooden pillars was surmounted by a curiously wrought iron balustrade, into which was woven the date of erection and initials of the proprietor, Peter Sar- geant : — 16. P. S. 79. Prom this balcony the viceroys of the province were accus- tomed to harangue the people or read proclamations. The royal arms, richly carved and gilt, decorated the front ; the bricks were of Holland make. The interior was on a scale of princely magnificence, little corresponding to the general belief in the simplicity of the mode of living of the times. The homes of Paneuil, of Hutchinson, and of Prankland have shown that luxury had effected an entrance into the habitations of the rich. The house of Peter Sargeant was a fit companion to the others cited. On the first floor an ample reception-room, panelled with rich wood and hung with tapestry, opened from the hall. This was the hall of audience of Shute, Burnet, Shirley, Pownall, .Bernard, Gage, and, last of all. Sir William Howe. It is probable that the first of the governors who occupied the Province House was Samuel Shute, an old soldier of Marl- borough, who had won distinction from his king on the bloody fields of Flanders. His administration of the affiiirs of the colony, which he governed from 1 71 G to 1723, was unfortunate. He came into conflict with the Legislature on questions of pre- THE OLD SOUTH AND rROVIXCE HOUSE. 237 rogative. The governor, almost stripjied of liis authority, was obUged to seek a remedy at court, and though his powers were confirmed, he did not enjoy the fruits of the decision. It is perhaps not generally known that a paper currency of small denominations was issued in the colony as early as 1722. Specimens are here reproduced. They were printed on pardi- ment, of the size given in the engravings. No other instance is remembered of the emission of such small sums in paper until we come down to the period of the Eevolution. The whole amount authorized was only £500, and speci- mens are very rare. The cuts given here are exact fac-similes of the originals now in the possession of the Antiquarian Society. A very full account of early Massachusetts cur- rency may be found in the Proceedings of that society for 186G, from the pen of Nathaniel Paine, Esq. In the first years of the settlement wampum, brass farthings, and even musket- bullets, supplied a circulating medium. AViUiam Burnet was born in 1688, at the Hague. The Prince of Orange, afterwards King William of England, stood godfather for him at the baptismal font. His fatlier was the celebrated Bishop Burnet, author of the " History of the lieformation in England." The elder Burnet, ftiUing under the displeasure of King James, re- tired to the Continent, entered the service of tlie Prince of Orange, and accomi)ariied him to England when AVilliam ob- tained the throne of his father- in-law, the Hying James. He was rewarded witli the bishop- ric of Salisbury, while the son '^"t-r^ tUCaSD Pence. ]3xo^incc of im si)affacl)u fcttg.Jjne 17 22 ^: ^ ^ rt 238 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. received subsequently from the House of Hanover the gov- ernment of New York, and afterwards that of Massachusetts Colony. The new governor was received with enthusiasm on his arrival. He was met at the George Tavern, on the Neck, by the lieutenant-governor, members of the Council, and Colonel Dudley's regiment. Under this escort, and followed by a vast concourse of gentlemen on horseback, in coaches and chaises, he proceeded to the Court House, where his commission was read. Shouts of joy and salvos of artillery from the forts and Castle welcomed him to Boston. Mather Byles was ready with a laudatory composition : — " While rising Shouts a general Joy proclaim, And ev'ry Tongue, Burnet ! lisps thy name ; To view thy face while crowding Armies run, Wliose waving Banners blaze against the Sun, And deep-mouth'd Cannon, with a thund'ring roar, Sound thy commission stretch'd from Shore to Shore. " Burnet lived but a short time to stem the tide of opposition to kingly authority, and died September 7, 1729. While he lived he maintained in proper state the dignity of his office. His negro valet, Andrew the Trum- peter, stood at the portal of the Province House, or drove his Excellency abroad in his coach. His menage was under the care of a competent house- keeper. Betty, the black laundress, had the care of twenty pair and one of Holland sheets, with damask napkins, and store of linen to match. A goodly array of plate garnished the sideboard, and ancient weapons graced the walls. Hobby, the THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. 230 cook, presided over the cuisine ; and coacli, cliariut, and chaises stood in the stables. He liad a steward and a French tutor. Is^otwithstanding the governor directed his funeral to take place in the most private manner, after the form of any Prot- estant church that might he nearest, the authorities would not have it so, and expended nearly £ 1,100 upon a yhowy pageant. The governor was a churchman and attended King's Chapel, but showed he had no religious bias in liis instructions for liis burial. Burnet was probably the first and last governor who died in the Province House. AVilliam Shirley was the admitted chief of the long roll of provincial governors. Ho lived at one time in King Street, but, after he became governor, built an elegant mansion in Itoxbury, afterwards occupied by Govern- or Eustis, and now, we believe, standing on Eustis Street, metamorphosed by mod- ern improvements. Shirley, no doubt, came to the Province House to transact official business, and. at the sitting of the General Court. In the reception-room was, perhaps, matured that celebrated expe- dition, which resulted in the capture of Louisburg. All the measures relating to the enterprise were conducted watli great ability. Profound secrecy was maintained as to its object while under discussion by the General Court ; the Governor carried the measure by only a single vote. Volunteers flocked in from all quarters, and the town became a camp. Over two thousand men were raised. Sir William Pepperell, whom an English historian has contemptuously called a " Piscataquay tmder," was given the command, and on the IGth of June, 1745, the bulwark of French power in America was in the hands of the provincial forces. Another measure of Governor Shirley deserves mention. Ten years before the passage of the Stanqi Act by the Englisli Par- liament, the Legislature of the colony had passed a similar act of their own, laying a tax on vellum, parchment, and i>uhli(; papers for two years; newspapers were included at first, but 240 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. soon exempted. This shows that it was not the stamp tax to which our ancestors objected, but to its levy without their con- sent. Specimens are here given from documents of the time to which the stamps were affixed. One of the cuts (the three penny stamp) is engraved from the original die used in the stamp-office. It is a short steel bar attached to the circular part, the impres- sion being made by a blow from a hammer. This interesting souvenir of the times of Shirley is in the possession of Jeremiah Colburn, Esq., of Boston, a well-known antiquarian. The expatriation of the unfortunate French from Acadia took place while Shirley was governor, and Massachusetts received about two hundred families. The terrific earthquake of 1755 shook the town to its foundations, and filled the streets with the debris of ruined houses, about fifteen hundred sustaining injury. Shirley was a man of letters, and wrote a tragedy, be- sides the history of the Louisburg expe- dition. He also held a government in the Bahamas, and was made lieutenant- general. His son, William, was killed at the defeat of Braddock. Thomas Pownall superseded Governor Shirley, in 1757-58, as governor. He occupied the chair only three years. He made a popular and magistrate, contrasting favorably with the dark, intriguing Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson. The great and disastrous fire of March 20, 1760, occurred before the departure of the governor to assume the government of South Carolina; also the organization and refitting of the land and naval forces, under General Amherst, for the reduction of Quebec and Montreal. Governor Pownall was a stanch friend of the Colonies, even after hostilities commenced with the mother country. No in- enlightened chief THE OLD SOUTH AND rROVIXCE HOUSE. 241 mate of tlie Province House was more respected or more rei^a'ctted. The governor made an excellent plan or picture of Boston from the Castle in 1757. Pownall, it is said, was a great ladies' man. He was rather short in stature, and inclined to be corpulent. It was the fashion of that day for a gentleman to salute a lady wlitm introduced to her. The governor was presented to a tall dame whom he requested to stoop to meet the offered courtesy. " No ! " says the lady, '*' I will never stoop to any man, — not even to your Excellency." Pownall sprang upon a chair, ex- claiming, " Then I will stoop to you, madam ! " and imprinted a loud smack upon the cheek of the haughty one. This, like many good old customs of our forefathers, has fallen into neg- lect. It was Pownall who induced the Legislature to erect a monument in Westminster Abbey to Lord Howe, who fell at Ticonderoga, and was much esteemed in Boston. Another was ordered to be erected to General Wolfe at the east end of the Town House, but Hutchinson prevented its being carried out. His successor, Francis Bernard, was received on his arrival from Xew Jersey with the usual pomp and ceremony, and escorted through the town to his residence at the Province House. During the period of Bernard's administration, from 17G0 to 17G9, the stormy events which caused the Colonies to throw off the yoke of Great Britain occurred. The Writs of Assistance, the Stamp Act, the introduction of troops, and tlie removal of the General Court to Cambridge, heaped odium upon his conduct of affairs. Volumes have been written upon the history of those nine years. So Bernard passed out from the shelter of the Province House witli none to do liim rev- erence. The king recaHed him, and the provinct^ spurned liim. Tlie last crowned head in this colony was ])roclaim«'d by Ber- nard. He gave a valuable portion of his library to Harvard. It has been said of Bernard that he was only a facile instru- ment in the hands of Hutchinson. He was even cjilled Hutch- inson's wheelbarrow, carrying the burdens imposecl by his wily lieutenant. Bernard's character has been described as arbitrary ; he was, hoM'ever, upriglit, with correct iu-incii)les and courteous 11 p 242 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. address. He built him a fine summer residence at Jamaica Plain, afterwards occupied by Martin Brimmer. After the governor's departure for England, watch and ward was but ill kept at the Province House, or else his Ancient Hutchinson, now his successor, troubled himself but little about the goods and chattels of the baronet. The mansion was broken open, and among other articles stolen were three feather-beds, four pair of blankets, ditto of sheets, all marked with his Excellency's ini- tials. The thief, besides this mere bulky booty, stole a crown-piece of James II. and two German rix dol- lars. The next inmate of the Province House was Thomas Gage, who was expected to support the kingly i)re- rogative by force of arms. We first found the general in quarters in Brattle Street, and gave there an outline of his career while military governor. He occupied the Province House when appointed to the government in 1774, and the tread and challenge of a British grenadier resounded for the first time in the ancient halls. Here was held the council between Earl Percy and the gov- ernor relative to the expedition to Lexington, so mysteriously noised abroad, and which Gage declared he had imparted the knowledge of to only one other ; even Lieutenant-Colonel Smith, who was intrusted with the command, did not know his destination. As Percy was going to his quarters from this interview, he met a number of townspeople conversing near the Common. As he went towards them, one of them remarked, " The British troops have marched, but will miss their aim." "What aim?" asked the Earl. " The cannon at Concord," was the answer. Percy retraced his steps to the Province House, where his chief heard with surprise and mortification the news tliat the movement was no longer a secret. He declared he had been betrayed. THE COLONY SEAL. THE OLD SOUTH AND niOVINCE HOUSE. 243 The following explanation has been given of the manner in which CJage's i)lans were thwarted. A groom at tlie Trovince House dropped into the stables, then o})p()site the Old South on ]\liUv Street, for a social chat with a stable-boy employed there. The news was asked of the British jockey, who, misconceiving tlie sentiments of his friend, replied, that he had overheard a conversation between Gage and other officers, and observed, " There will be hell to pay to-morrow." This A\as immediately carried to Paul lievere, Avho enjoined silence on his informant, and added, " You are the third person who has brouglit me the same information." It was here, too, that the perfidy of Benjamin Church was discovered by Deacon Davis, a visitor to the general. Before this tima he had been esteemed an ardent friend of tlie cause of liberty. His residence Avas at the south corner of Washing- ton and Avon Streets. On the morning of the 17th of June, 1775, Gage called his officers together to attend a coun- cil of war. Howe, Clinton, Bur- /ji/^ ^ /^ goyne, and Grant were present, //y^ . c/'^^/^^-^ It was an anxious consultation. Y // Clinton and CJrant proposed to land the troops at Charlestown Xeck under protection of the ships, and take the American works in reverse. Tliis })lan, which Avould have prol)al)ly resulted in the ca})ture of the wliole provincial force, was disa})proved by Gage, who feared to })laco his men, in case of disaster, between the intrenched Americans and reinforcements from Cambridge. General Gage returned to England in October, 1775. He married an American lady, and a niece of the general by this marriage was the wife of the late General William H. Sumner, of Jamaica Plain. Gage had served at Fontenoy and Culloden, and in I5ra(M<)ck's camjtaign. He is said to have l)orne an extraordinary jnTsonal resemblance to Samuel Adams, the chief conspimtor against liis sway, but few can fail to mark in the portrait of the general tlie absence of that firmness and decision which is so conspicuous in that of the patriot. 244 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Gage's well-known proclamation was thus humorously hit off soon after its appearance : — ''Tom Gage's Proclamation, Or blustering Denunciation, (Replete witli Defamation, And speedy Jugiilation, Of the New England Nation), Who shall his pious ways shun, " Tl)us graciously the war I wage. As witnesseth my hand — Tom Gage." Sir William Howe, as Gage's military successor, took up his quarters at the Province House, and occupied it during the winter of 1 775 - 76. As the siege had now begun, its position was central and well adapted for communication with the works at the Neck, or at Copp's Hill, from which it was about equally distant. The " Governour's House " now presented a busy scene, and so indeed did the neighborhood. The dragoons held possession of the Old South. The orderlies' horses stood hitched in front of the general's quarters, and armed heel and sabre clattered up and down the broad staircase, bringing re- ports from the various outposts. Howe was a good soldier, but not an enterprising one. He had fought with Wolfe at Quebec as lieutenant-colonel, receiving the grade of major-general in 1772. During the siege he coolly gave the order to occupy or pull down churches or dwellings as necessity dictated. He has been much execrated for setting fire to Charlestown, but the fire kept up from some of the houses justified the act in a military view. Finally Howe effected the withdrawal of his army without loss from Boston, by making the safety of the town a guaranty of his own. His after career in America Avas measurably successful; defeating Washington at Long Island and White Plains, he took posses- ^ sion of New York, while the battles of Brandywine and Ger- mantown gave him Philadelphia. He was relieved by his old comrade Sir H. Clinton, and returned home in 1778, when an official inquiry was made into his conduct. Howe's address to his troops before the battle of Bunker Hill is a soldierly document. THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. 245 " Gentlemen, — I am very happy in having the honor of com- manding so tine a body of men ; I do not in the least doubt that you will behave like Englishmen, and as becometh good soldiers. " If the enemy will not come from their intrenchments, we must drive them out, at all events, otherwise the town of Boston will be set on lire by them. " I shall not desire one of you to go a step further than where I go myself at your head. " Eemember, gentlemen, we have no recourse to any rescnirces if we lose Boston, but to go on board oiu" ships, which will Ije very disagreeable to us all." There is every reason to believe Sir William's military duties (lid not prevent his exercising a generous hospitality. The hall of audience * has no doubt resounded with mirth and music when the general received. There were his royalist neighbors, the ]\rascarenes, Harrison Gray, the Boutineaus and ^Master Lovell, with many kindred spirits of the court party. There were Clinton, Burgoyne, the noble Percy, and many more of the army and navy to grace the levees of their commander by their presence. The buzz of conversation ceases as Sir William leads out some beautiful tory for the stately minuet, an ex- ample speedily followed by his guests. Perhaps amid the strains of the Fusileer's band strikes in the deep diapason of the continental cannon. The coming of the troops into Boston made formidable innovations in the customs and dress of the old founders. The sad-colored garments and high-crowned hats gave jdace to velvet coat, rufftes, and cocked hat. Gentlemen of condition wore the small sword in full dress, with a gold-headed c^nie to set off the lace depending from their sleeves. A gentleman's ball dress was a white coat, trimmed with silver basket but- tons, collar and button-holes crossed Avitli silver lace. Or, a coat of blue or scarlet cloth trimmed witli gold might serve a gallant of the period. His hair was crajx'd and jjowdcrcd. A satin embroidered waistcoat reaching below tlie liips, witli small clothes o^ the same material, gold or silver knee-bands, wliito silk stockings, and high-heeled morocco shoes, witli l)uckles of some precious metal, completed a truly elegant attire. 246 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The ladies wore a sacque with a long trail petticoat hand- somely trimmed. Satin shoes with paste or metal buckle con- fined delicate feet. The hair was craped and ornamented according to fancy, and profusely sprinkled with white powder. The gown was set off to advantage by two or three tiers of ruffles. Such was court dress, and court etiquette prevailed. The manners were distinguished for stiffness and formality, relaxing a little under the influence of the ballroom. The last queen's ball was held February 22, 1775. Our reader will care little to know who originally owned the ground whereon stood the Province House. Peter Sargeant built it in the year 1679, and the Provincial Legislature became its purchaser in 1716. After the lie volution it was occupied by the Treasurer and other officers of the Commonwealth. When the building was reconstructed in 1851, old copper coins of the reign of the Georges, and some even of as old date as 1612, were taken from the floors and ceilings, where they had lain 'perdu since dropped by a careless functionary, or perhaps from the breeches pocket of my Lord Howe. Ancient-look- ing bottles of Holland make were found too, suggestive of Schnapps and Dutch courage. Burnet perchance may have inherited the weakness with his Dutch blood. After the adoption of the State Constitution it became a " Government House." The easterly half was occupied by the Governor and Council, Secretary of State and Peceiver-General. The other half was the dwelling of the Treasurer. The State was inclined to keep up the character of the Province House by making it the governor's official residence, and voted sums of money for the purpose. In 1796 the Commonwealth, being then engaged in building the present State House, sold the Pro- vince House to John Peck, but it reverted back to the State in 1799, Peck being unable to fulfil his part of the contract. Governor Caleb Strong occupied it after his election in 1800. He had been active in promoting the cause of the Revolution, and took part in all the prominent measures of organization of the body politic at its end. He was in tlie United States Senate in 1789-97. In 1812 he was again elected governor. THE OLD SOUTH AND PROVINCE HOUSE. 247 Being a strong Federalist, lie refused to answer the calls made upon him for troops by the general government, but took measures to protect the State from invasion. The old revolu- tionary works at South Boston were strengthened and manned, and a new one erected on Noddle's Island in 1814, which bore the governor's name. This conflict between State and Federal authority forms a curious chapter in the political history of the times. Governor Strong is described as a tall man, of moderate ful- ness ; of rather long visage, dark comjilexion, and blue eyes. He wore his hair loose combed over his forehead, and slightly powdered. He had nothing of the polish of cities in his de- meanor, but a gentle complaisance and kindness. In 1811 the Massachusetts General* Hospital was incorpo- rated and endowed by the State with the Province House. The trustees of the institution leased the estate, in 1817, to David Greenough for ninety-nine years, who, erecting the stores in its front, converted it to the uses of trade. It be- came a tavern, a hall of negro minstrelsy, and was finally destroyed by tire in October, 1864. Some relics of this venerable and historic structure remain. The Indian came into the possession of Henry Greenough, Fsq., of Cambridge, and was permitted to remain some time in the hands of the late Dr. J. C. Warren, of Park Street, but at his decease no traces of it could be discovered, much to the regret of its owner. Perhaps it is still in existence. The royal arms are in the possession of the Historical Society. Colonel Ben- jamin Perley Poore became the possessor of much of the cedar wainscot and of the porch. Tlie panelling he has devoted to the finish of a pre-Ilevolutionary suite of rooms, wliile tlie j)(irch forms the entrance to his garden at Indian Hill, West Newbury. The grand staircase down which Hawthorne's gliostly pro- cession descended led to apartments devoted to domestic uses. The massive oaken timbers Avere memorials of the stanch and solid traits of the builders. Here Shute brooded and fumed; here Burnet wrote and Bernard plotted ; and here (Jage and Howe planned and schemed in vain. All have jtassed away. 248 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The Blue Bell and Indian Queen tavern stood on eacli side of a passage formerly leading from Washington Street to Haw- ley. Nathaniel Bishop kept it in 1673, which entitles it to be ranked with the old ordinaries. The officers from the Province House and Old South often dropped in to take their cognac neat. The landlady, at this time, a stanch whig, had the re- pute of an amazon. Some officers one day, exciting her ire by calling for brandy under the name of " Yankee blood," she seized a spit and drove them from her house. Zadock Pomeroy kept the inn in 1800. About 1820 the Washington Coffee House was erected in place of the Indian Queen, but it, too, has vanished. It will be remembered as the starting-place of the old Eoxbury Hourlies. No. 158 indicates the site, corre- sponding with the Parker Block. Another Indian Queen was in Bromfield's Lane, since Street. Isaac Trask kept it, and after him Nabby, his widow, until 1816. Simeon Boyden was next proprietor; Preston Shepard in 1823, afterwards of the Pearl Street House ; and W. Mun- roe. This was the late Bromfield House, now occupied by a handsome granite block styled the Wesleyan Association Build- ing. It was a great centre for stages while they continued to run. The likeness of an Indian princess gave the name to old and new tavern. The Bromfield House site becomes important as the birth- place ■ of Thomas Gushing, lieutenant-governor under Hancock and Bowdoin, friend and coworker in the patriot cause with Adams, Otis, and Warren. The British Ministry ascribed great influence to Gushing. He was member both of the Provincial and Continental Congresses, and commissary-general in 1775. Governor Gushing was a member of the Old South. He died in 1788, and was buried in the Granary Burying Ground. A few paces from the site of the old Indian Queen, or, ac- cording to the present landmarks, 166 Washington Street, was the abode of the gifted Josiah Quincy, Jr., and the birthplace of his son, Josiah, who is best known to Boston as the greatest of "her chief magistrates. Uriah Cotting, Charles Bulfinch, and Josiah Quincy are the triumvirate who, by waving their magi- THE OLD SOUTH AND TROVINXE HOUSE. 249 cian's wand, changed Boston from a straggling provincial town into a metropolis. Josiali Quincy, Jr., died at the early age of thirty-one, while returning from a voyage to England, undertaken partly for the benefit of his health. He was constitutionally delicate, and his mental strength far exceeded his physical. He was chosen, with John Adams, by Captain Preston, to defend him on his trial for the Massacre in King Street, and did defend him Avith all his abihty, notwithstanding his own father warmly opposed his undertaking it. Mr. Quincy was possessed of high oratorical powers. The phlegmatic John Adams named him the Boston Cicero ; his pohtical writings, begun in the Boston Gazette of October, 17G7, are full of hre and patriotic fervor. AVhen in England he was, with Franklin, singled out for a brutal allusion by Lord Hillsborough, who declared they " ought to be in Kewgate or at Tyburn." His strength proved unequal to the voyage, and he breathed his last within sight of his native land only a few days after the battle of Lexington. " Ask ye wliat thoughts Convulsed liis soul, when his dear native shores, Thronged Avith the imagery of lost delight, Gleamed on his darkening eye, while the hoarse wave Uttered his death dirge, and no hand of love Might yield its tender trembling ministry ? " Josiah Quincy, Jr. is said to have been the first Boston lawyer who put up a sign-board over his door. Josiali Quincy succeeded Mr. Phillips as mayor in 1823, over his competitor Otis. AVe have paid a tribute to his forecast and enterprise abeady. To him is due the establishment of Houses of Industry and Eeformation. Commercial Street completed his transformation of the T( wn Dock region. Tender him the Fire Department was founded in 1827. After a long and useful public service in city. State, and national councils, Mr. C^hiincy took the presidency of Harvard University in 1829, wlicrc he continued in office until 1845. At the annual festival of the pul)lic schools of Boston in Faneuil Hall, August, 1826, and on completion of the granite market-house, Judge Story, being present, volunteered the fol- . 11* 250 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. lowing sentiment, — " May the fame of our honored mayor prove as diinible as the material of which the beautiful market- house is constructed." On which, quick as light, the mayor responded, ^' That stupendous monument of the wisdom of our forefathers, the Supreme Court of the United States ; in the event of a vacancy, may it be raised one story higher." "'^ This pun has also been attributed to Edward Everett. Benjamin Hichborn, another Revolutionary patriot, next oc- cupied the premises made vacant by the Quincys. He was a graduate of Harvard, and an eminent member of the Suffolk bar. For his zeal in his country's cause he was imprisoned on board a British vessel, the Preston, lying in Boston harbor. Mr. Hichborn was a Jefiersonian Democrat. He was colonel of the Cadets in 1778, and marched at their head into liliode Island. In the year following he had the misfortune to be connected with an unfortunate accident which caused the death of his friend, Benjamin Andrews. The gentlemen were exam- ining some pistols, Mrs. Andrews being present. One of the weapons, incautiously handled, was discharged, taking effect in ^Ir. Andrews's head, causing death in a few minutes. * Quincy's Life. FKOM THE OLD SOUTH liOUND FOKT HILL. 251 CHAPTER IX. FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. Birthplace of Franklin. — James Boutineau. — Bowdoin Block. — Hawley Street. — Devonshire and Franklin Streets. — Joseph Barrell. — The Ton- tine. — Boston Library. — Cathedral of the Holy Cross. — Bishop Cheve- rus. — Federal Street Theatre. — Some Account of Early Theatricals in Boston. — Kean, Finn, Macready, etc. — John Howard Paine. — Fuileral Street Church. — The Federal Convention. — Madam Scott. — Robert Treat Paine. — Thomas Paine. — Congress Street. — Quaker Church and Burying-Ground. — Sketch of the Society of Friends in Boston. — Mer- chants' Hall. — Governor Sliirley's Funeral. — Fire of 1760. — Pearl Street. — The Ropewalks. — The Grays. — ConHicts between the Rope-Makers and the Regulars. — Pearl Street House. — Spurzheim. — Washington Alls- ton. — Theophilus Parsons. — T. H. Perkins. — Governor Oliver. — Quincy Mansion, — Governor Gore. — Liverpool Wharf. — Tea Party and Licidents of. — The Sconce. — Governor Andi'os Deposed. — Sun Tavern. — Fort Hill. WE enter on Milk Street, the ancient Fort Street, con- ducting from the governor's house to tlie Sconce, or South Battery, — a route we now propose to follow. Before we come to Hawley Street we see a granite edifice with "Birthplace of Franklin" standing out in boM rcHcf from the pediment. No new light has been shed u\nm tliis interesting question since we left the Bhie Ball. It is enough that we honor the philosopher's name in many i)ul)lic places, — no locality may claim him. Apropos of Franklin, wlien lio was at the court of his most Christian ^Majesty, he soon became the rage, not only of court circles, but of the capital. Presents flowed in upon him, which he, with ready tact, contnv«'d to share with his fellow-commissioners, so as to avoid the ai)pear- ance of invidious distinction. Among other things, there ciime to his lodgings a superb gift of fruits, labelled " Lo digne Frank- lin." "This time," said Silas Deane, " you cannot jiretenil this is not for you alone." " Not so," said Franklin ; " the Fivnch- 252 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. men cannot master our American names ; it is, plainly, Lee, Deane, Franklin, that is meant." Arthur Lee, Franklin's fellow-commissioner, composed eight lines of the famous Liberty Song of John Dickinson, which the latter sent James Otis, uj)on news that the Legislature of IMassachu- setts refused to rescind the resolve to send a circular letter calling a convention of the sister colonies to oppose taxation without representation. It was printed in the Pennsyl- vania Chronicle, July 4, 1768, and is the earliest of the Eevolutionary lyrics that boldly speaks of in- FRANKLIN R BIRTHPLACE. dependence and union. " Tlien join hand in hand, brave Americans all ; By uniting we stand, by dividing we fall ; In so righteous a cause let us hope to succeed, For Heaven approves of eacli generous deed. Our purses are ready, — Steady, friends, steady, — Not as slaves, but as freemen, our money we'll give." The old house here represented is a quaint specimen of the old order of buildings. It was burnt December 29, 1810, shortly after a drawing had been secured. Old Josiah Frank- lin, the father of Benjamin, was a native of England, and by trade a silk-dyer ; he became a respectable soap-boiler and tallow-chandler in Boston. Benjamin was born on the 6th of January, 1706, and is upon the church records as having received baptism the same day. Upon this is founded the claim of the old house to be the place of his nativity. The sign of the statue of Faust, displayed by the present occupants of the Birthplace of Franklin, is the same used by Thomas FKOM THE OLD SOUTH EOUND FORT HILL. 2a'3 and Andrews in years gone by at tlie old stand in Xewlniiy Street. Opposite to us, and just below, is tlie " Old South Block," built upon the site of the parsonage in 1845. Next below is Sewall Block, which covers the site of the mansion of James Boutineau, a royalist, who departed from Boston in the train of Howe. Boutineau married Peter Faneuil's sister, Susannah, and was, like Faneuil, descended from the French Huguenots. He was a lawyer and managed the case of his son-indaw, Kob- inson, — the same who assaulted James Otis ; his house, a brick mansion, stood a little removed from the street, with the usual flagged walk, shaded by trees, leading up to it. " Bowdoin Block " has a noteworthy record. It stands at the east corner of Hawley Street, once known as Bishop's Alley, probably from Bishop of the Blue Bell, and also as Boarded Alley, — from its having been boarded over at one time, — a name our readers Avill see reproduced in a lane leading from Hanover Street to North. On the corner of the alley, Seth Adams once carried on printing ; his son was the first post- rider to Hartford, and rode hard to carry the post in four days. In this same Boarded Alley was established the first theatre in Boston, of which more hereafter. Morton Place was named at the request of Thomas Kilby Jones, whose wife was a IMorton, and not for Governor jNIorton, as has been supposed. It was here Payne, father of John How- ard, kept a school, before Morton Place was constructed. On the site of Bowdoin Block was another old-tinu> mansion, which belonged at one time to James Bowdoin, son of the governor, minister to ^ladrid in 1808. He was once a merchant in State Street, occupying a row of three stores with John Coffin Jones and Thomas Ptussell. He was a man of highly cultivated intellectual tastes, but of slender habit. Ho filled many offices within the State before his appointment to the court of Madrid. James Bowdoin was a munificent patron of Bowdoin College, to which he gave lantls, money, and his valu- able library and philosophical apparatus collected abroaing each a hempen bulk," Harrison Gray, treasurer of the colony, and grandfather of Harrison Gray Otis, was proscribed, and had his estates confis- cated after his flight from Boston. It is stated, in Sabine's Loyalists, that in August, 1775, inquiry was made in the House of Representatives concerning the horse and chaise, formerly Harrison Gray's, which was used by the late Dr. (General) Warren, and came into the hands of the committee of supplies after Dr. Warren's death. The horse and chaise appears to have been traced to Dr. William Eustis, afterwards governor, as he was directed the next day to deliver it to the committee named. Mr. Gray went first to Halifax, thence to London, where his house was the resort of the Boston refugees. Of him it was written : — " What Puritan could ever pray- In godlier tones than Treasurer Gray ; Or at town-meetings, speechifying, Could utter more melodious whine, And shut his eyes and vent his moan, Like owl afflicted in the sun ! " At these ropewalks began the conflicts between the soldiers and rope-makers, wliich culminated in the 5tli of March affair. Among the soldiers were a good many mechanics, who were often employed as journeymen. One of these inquired of a negro workman at Mr. Gray's if his master wished to hire a man. The negro answered that " his master wished to have his vault emptied, and that was a proper work for a Lobster" For this insolent remark the soldier gave the negro a severe beating. Mr. Gray came up, parted them, and endeavored to persuade the soldier to return to his barracks, but the latter cursed him, and offered for sixpence to serve him as he had done the negro. Mr. Gray took him at his word, and after a sound thrashing, the soldier rushed off to his barracks at Wheelwright's, now Foster's Wharf, swearing vengeance. But, in the language of Pope, — " What direful contests rise from trivial things ! " FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 275 The soldier returned in half an liour with nearly seventy of his comrades of the l-ith, armed with pipe-staves which tlicy liad obtained at a cooper's shop. Tliey made a furious attiick upon the ropewalk men, who stood firm, and finally repulsed their assailants, pursuing them over the hill. The soldiers, rein- forced to the number of about three hundred, headed by tlieir sergeant-major, returned with redoubled fury to the contlict, but the rope-makers had been joined by the brawny shipwrights, mast and block makers, from Hallowell's shi])yard at tlie foot of Milk Street, armed with their beetles, wedges, and marlin- spikes. The soldiers pulled down the fence in High Street en- closing the field, since Quincy Place, and the ropewalk men levelled that on Pearl Street. A terrific melee ensued, but the athletic mechanics of Fort Hill were too much for the soldiery, who were again worsted. This occurred on the 3d of March, 1770 ; the massacre in King Street took place on the 5th. The northwest corner of Pearl Street is the site of the Pearl Street House, opened in 1836 by Colonel Shepard, formerly of the Indian Queen in Bromfield Street. The house is now standing, devoted to business. It was the first erected on tlie south side of the street, after the ropewalks, and was built by Mr. Gorham for a residence. On the opposite corner resided Mr. John Prince, a gentleman of tory proclivities, who, however, did not join the royalist hegira of 1776. His estate, which had a court-yard and gar- dens, was altered by him in about 1812, when he built a block ot five buildings, the centre house twice as large as the others, for his own residence. It had a roof with a pediment raised above the others, giving the whole block somewhat the appear- ance of a public ediHce. After residing there for a fi'W years, he removed to a beautiful residence at Jamaica Plain, and tliis Pearl Street mansion became the boarding-house of Mrs. Le Kain. In this house John Gaspard Spur/.licim, tlie gifted Prussian phrenologist, resided during his visit to Boston, and here, also, he died, in the same year of his arrival in tliis country. He lies buried at Blount Auburn, his tomb being a conspicuous object in that filmed cemetery. 276 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Attached to the estate of Mr. Prince was a large bam. This was Washington Allston's studio after his return to Boston, and until his removal to Cambridgeport, in consequence of the con- version of the barn into a livery-stable. Here his large picture of Belshazzar's Feast, now in the Athenaeum Gallery, was rolled up and laid aside, although he worked at it a little at this time. Allston was the antipodes of Stuart. He was refined, gentle, and unassuming ; a charming companion, and a great favorite in society. Besides being a painter, he wrote verses, and a vol- ume of his poems was published. Coleridge said he was un- surpassed by any man of his age in poetical and artistic genius. For many years after Allston left Rome every American was questioned by the native artists for news of the American Titian ; it was generally conceded that for two hundred years no artist's coloring had so closely resembled that of the great master. His Dead Man won the first prize of two hundred guineas from the British Institution, and the artist could have disposed of it for a large sum on the spot, but he preferred to sell it for less than its value to the Pennsylvania Academy, through Messrs. McMurtie and Sully. Allston employed his leisure hours at Harvard in drawing figures and landscapes. The pic- tures of Pine, in the Columbian Museum, Boston, were his first masters in coloring; but, most of all, he admired a head of Cardinal Bentivoglio, by Smibert, in the College library, while a student. This was a copy from Vandyke, and seemed perfec- tion to the young artist until he saw works of greater merit. Allston continued to paint industriously and successfully until his death, which occurred at Cambridge, July 9, 1843. He had painted all day, and during the evening conversed with unusual cheerfulness. His wife left the room for a few moments, and when she returned he was dying. Allston was liberally patronized, and no American painter of his day received such prices. His first wife was a sister of William Ellery Channing ; a sister of Richard H. Dana was the Mrs. Allston who survived him. De Tocqueville went to Cambridgeport on purpose to see the artist ; and the first inquiry of Lord Morpeth, when he FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 277 landed in Boston, was, " Where does AUston live I " A niiiu- ber of liis pictures are preserved in the Atheuieum (Jalltuy, including several unfinished works. The late S. F. li. Mijrso was a pupil of Allston. The house next beyond that of Mr. Prince was tliat in wliich Theophilus Parsons, LL. I)., lived after his removal to IVjston in 1800, and in which he died. Judge Parsons, as chief of the Massachusetts Bench, as one of the framers of the State Consti- tution, or as a zealous advocate for the adoption of the Federal Constitution, ranks high in the estimation of his countrymen. An instance of Judge Parsons's address is given in connection with the convention in Federal Street. One of the delegates, Eev. Mr. Perley, of Maine, refused to vote for an instrument which did not acknowledge the Supreme Being. The lawyer undertook to argue him out of his position. " I suppose," said Mr. Parsons, " that in the course of your ministerial labors you have preached from texts in every book of the Old Testament." "Yes," said Mr. Perley, "I probably have." "You have preached from texts in the Book o^ Esther 1 " " Doubtless I have," said Mr. Perley. " Do you know that in the Book of Esther," said Mr. Parsons, " there is not a single allusion to the Supreme Being ] " " It is not possil)le," said Mr. Perley. " Look 1 " said Mr. Parsons. The search was made. " You are right," said Mr. Perley, and the clergyman confessed his scruples removed. Theophilus Parsons, the younger, is best known by excellent works on commercial law, and for other labors in the literary field. He studied law with Judge Prcscott, father of the his- torian, and son of the commander at Bunker Hill. Xext the house of Judge Parsons was that of Paxton, or Palmer. This house was divided, and became the residence of James Lovell, the naval officer, and of Thomas Handasyd Per- kins, so well remembered for his munificent contribution in aid of a blind asylum. Between this mansion and the (j^uincy estate a field intervened. Colonel Perkins was one of the most eminiMit of Boston merchants, and, with his brother James, engaged largely iu the 278 ' LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. China and Java trade. Amassing great wealth, both brothers contributed freely to benevolent or literary objects. The atten- tion of Colonel T. H. Perkins was probably tirst drawn to the blind by the partial loss of his own si^ht. The Quincy Eail- way, and the Washington and Bunker Hill Monuments were each objects of his interest and efforts. He laid the corner-stone of the Merchants' Exchange in State Street, and liberally aided the Mercantile Library. He was, in common with some of his neighbors, an ardent opponent of the war policy of Mr. Madison. When Colonel Perkins was in Paris, during a period of ap- prehended revolution, Lafayette conhded his son, George Wash- ington, to his care, and the latter lived for some time in his family in Boston. Immediately behind the mansion of Mr. Perkins was the residence of Andrew Oliver, lieutenant-governor under Hutch- inson's regime, distributor of stamps, etc. The house stood near Oliver Street, though it did not appear to have fronted upon it. Its condition was so dilapidated in 1808 as to afford little idea of its former appearance. It was in good repair after the Eevolution, and occupied by families of respectability. Mr. Oliver was visited by the mob who overthrew the stamp- ofhce at the dock, not far distant. Governor Bernard recites in his proclamation that the secretary's liouse was entered with force and violence, his furniture damaged, windows broken, and fences pulled down, to the great terror of his Majesty's liege subjects. The secretary, apprehensive of a second visit from his fellow-citizens, thought it prudent to resign his office forth- with. Mr. Hutchinson was present at Oliver's house when the mob attacked it ; he used his endeavors to suppress the riot with force, but neither the sheriff nor the colonel of the Boston Eegiment thought proper to interfere. Peter Oliver, brother of Andrew, was chief justice in 1771, adhered to the royal cause, and left Boston with the king's troops. Secretary Oliver died in Boston in 1774. He was one of the most affluent of the Old Bostonians, and had a private estab- lishment rivalling that of any in the province. Coaches, chariot, negro slaves, and good sterling plate in abundance attested his FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 279 wealth. He was a generous patron of Smi])ert, wlio i)ainted all the family portraits, including one in whi(;h the secretary and his two brothers were represented. Andrew Oliver wished to stand well with his countrymen, and at the same time enjoy the emoluments of an officer of the crown. He soon found the two were incompatible, and passed from the stage soon after the events occurred that have given notoriety to his name. On the opposite side of Oliver Street was the residence of Judge Oliver AVendell. It fronted towards the east, with grounds adjoining. Quincy Block marks the site of the Quincy estate, which extended to High Street. Here Mr. Quincy passed the earlier years of his married life, until elected to Congress in 1805, when the mansion was occupied by Christopher Gore. It is described by Miss Quincy as " A handsome edifice of three stories, the front ornamented with Corinthian pilasters ; and j)illars of the same order supported a porch, from which three flights of red sandstone steps, and a broad walk of the same material, descended to Pearl Street. Honeysuckles were twined around the porch, and high damask rose-bushes grew beneath the windows ; at the comer of Pearl and High Streets stood the stable and coach-house. The grounds ascending towards Oliver Street were formed into a glacis, and were adorned with four English elms of full size and beauty, the resort of numerous birds, especially of the oriole, or golden robin." Christopher Gore was a Bostonian by birth, and an emin«Mit lawyer. It was in his office that Daniel AVebster read law, and by iiis advice that the latter continued steadfast in the i)r(.fes- sion when beguiled by some offer of place which might liavo terminated his great career. ^Ir. Gore was the lii-st district attorney appointed by Washington over tlie ]\rass;ichusetts dis- trict ; he was also a commissioner under Jay's treaty, and a United States senator. In 1809 he was elected governor of Massachusetts. This was the period of the embargo of Mr. Jefferson, and of the stirring scenes preceding the war of 1812. The temper of the Bostonians was decidedly advers(> to tho measure ; the mercantile class, whose interests were most nearly 280 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. affected, were bitter in tlieir comments upon the administration. Colonel Boyd, commanding at Fort IndejDendence, received orders to fire upon any vessel attempting to violate the embargo, upon which the colors on the shipping were placed at half-mast. The Wasp, afterwards conqueror of the Frolic, lay in the stream watching the idle vessels, and threats were freely made to burn her. William Sullivan says. Governor Gore was tall, a little in- clined to corpulency in middle age, and erect, but began to bend at an earlier age than common. He became bald at an unusually early period. His hair was tied behind and dressed with powder. His face was round and florid, his eyes black ; his manners courteous and amiable. Gore Hall, at Harvard, com- memorates a magnificent bequest to the University in his will. On the site of the Athenaeum one sees the block of that name ; we wish the custom prevailed more generally of thus distinguishing localities. In the hall of the Athenaeum the disciples of Baron Swedenborg held their worship ; the society has existed in Boston since 1818, receiving legislative sanction in 1823. It has been mentioned that the Athenaeum owed their building to the munificence of James Perkins. Quincy Place and Perkins Street are visible memorials of two distin- guished families. High Street has ceased to be high, and, to keep pace with the custom of the times, should receive a more appropriate title. Of yore it mounted the height to the esplanade of Fort Hill ; now it has sunk to a monotonous level. Sister Street rejoices in the name as well as the smell of Leather, while Wil- liams Street, named for John Foster Williams, is metamorphosed into Matthews. Pearl Street is the acknowledged shoe and leather mart of the country, and has furnished the State with at least one chief magistrate. The Hutchinsons, Atkinsons, Grays, Perkinses, Quincys, Parsonses, Gridleys, and the rest, have shed a lustre round the ancient hillside, though granite now usurps the terraced gardens, and drays instead of chariots stand at the doors. Fort Hill Block, on the corner of High and Pearl Streets, FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 281 marks the site of a manunoth structure erected for a private residence, and known as Harris's Folly. Extensive gardens reached up the hill, quite to the enclosure at the top. In ISOO all the land was open to the mall on the summit of the hill. The northwest corner of Pearl and High was for a time the location of the Congress House, altered from a private residence into a hotel. Proceed we onward to Purchase Street, anciently Belcher's Lane, the birthplace of Thomas Dawes, afterwards a judge of the Supreme Court of the State, and of the ^lunicipal Court of Boston ; and of Samuel Adams, the great central figure of the patriot junta. The elder Thomas Dawes was the architect of Brattle Street Church. He was a high patriot, and the caucuses were sometimes held in his garret, where they smoked tobacco, drank flip, and discussed the state of the country. Dawes was also adjutant of the Boston Regiment. The tories gave him the nickname of " Jonathan Smoothing-plane." A short descent brings us to Liverpool Wharf. Where now Broad Street winds around the margin of the water, the old footpath under the hill was known as- Flounder Lane ; Sea Street was its continuation to Windmill Point. Beyond this point the Sea Street of later times was built straight into the harbor, enclosing the South Cove ; it is now known as Broad Street in its entire length, from State Street to the South Boston Bridge. Liverpool Wharf, then Griffin's, was the destination of the Tea Party of December 16, 1773. It was a cold wintry after- noon, when "Just as glorious Sol was setting, On the wharf a numerous crew, Sons of freedom, fear forgetting, Suddenly appeared in view," The three Indiamen, with their high poops and ornamented sterns, were lying quietly moored at the wharf. They had been for some time under guard of a committee of twenty-five from the grenadier company of the Boston Regiment, of which Henry Knox was one. The hatches were closed, and this vigi- lance committee took care no attempt was made to land the :^. 282 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. cargo. 'The names of the three ships were the Dartmouth, Captain James Hall, The Eleanor, Captain James Bruce, and brig Beaver, Captain Hezekiah Coffin. The number of persons disguised as Indians was not more than seventeen, but the accessions from the Old South, and of apprentice lads and idlers, |W, swelled the number to more than a hundred ; as many as sixty went on board the ships. MtS." -« Each ship had a detachment allotted to it under a recognized leader ; Lendall Pitts was one of these chiefs. Everything was orderly, systematic, and doubtless previously concerted. The leaders demanded of those in charge of the ships the keys to the hatches, candles, and matches, which were produced. The Dartmouth was first visited and relieved of her cargo of one hundred and fourteen chests. As the chests were passed on deck, they were smashed, and nervous arms j)lunged them into the dock. The contents of three hundred and forty-two chests mingled with the waters of the bay, and the work was done. It was low tide when the ships were boarded, and the ap- prentice boys, who formed the larger number of those engaged in the affair, jumped upon the flats, and assisted in breaking up and trampling into the mud such of the chests as had escaped the hatchets of those on board the vessels. The tide beginning to flow, the whole mass was soon adrift. We give the names of the actors in this conversion of Bos- ton harbor into a teapot, as far as known : Dr. Thomas Young, Paul Eevere, Thomas Melvill, Henry Purkett, Captain Henry Prentiss, Samuel Gore, George R. T. Hewes, Joseph Shed, John Crane, Josiah Wheeler, Thomas Urann, Adam Colson, Thomas Chase, S. Cooledge, Joseph Payson, James Brewer, Thomas Bolter, Edward Proctor, Samuel Sloper, Thomas Ger- rish, Nathaniel Green, Edward C. How, Ebenezer Stevens, Nicholas Campbell, John Eussell, Thomas Porter, William Hurdley, Benjamin Rice, Nathaniel Frothingham, Moses Grant, Peter Slater, James Starr, Abraham Tower, Isaac Simpson, Joseph Eayres, Joseph Lee, WiUiam Molineux, John Spurr, FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 283 Thomas Moore, S. Howard, ^latthew Loring, Thomas Spear, Daniel Ingollson, Jonathan Hunnewell, John Hooten, llichard Hunnewell, William Pierce, William- Russell, T. Gammell, Mr, ]\IcIntosh,- Mr. Wyeth, Edward Dolbier, ^h\ Martin, Samuel Peek, Lendall Pitts, Samuel Sprague, Benjamin Clarke, John Prince, Richard Hunnewell, Jr., David Kinnison, John Truman, Henry Bass, Joseph ^lountfort, William Hurd, Joseph Palmer, Joseph Coolidge, Obadiah Curtis, James Swan, Mr. Kingson, and Isaac Pitman.* There are authorities who give Dr. Warren as a member of the Mohawk Band. Many incidents are related of this event. It is said that on their return from the wharf the band passed a house where Admiral jMontague of the fleet happened to be, and that he raised the window and cried out, " Well, boys, you've had a tine pleasant evening for your Indian caper, have n't you] But mind you have got to pay the fiddler yet ! " ' " 0, never mind ! " shouted Pitts, the leader ; " never mind. Squire ! just come out here, if you please, and we '11 settle the bill in two minutes." The populace raised a shout, the lifer struck up a lively air, and the admiral shut the window in a hurry. A powerful fleet lay in the roads ; the trooj^s were at the Castle, yet not a move Avas made to arrest the work of destruction. Thomas Melvill, in aft3r times a distinguished citizen of Boston, was of the party. On his return home his wife col- lected a little of the tea from his shoes, which was put into a bottle with a memorandum written on parchment, and kept as a precious relic in the family. Many came to see the famous herl), until at last it was found necessary to seal it, to preserve it from vandal hands. This bottle of tea is now in ])()ss('ssion of Lemuel Shaw of this city, son of the late Judge Shaw. John Crane, another of the party, while busily emjiloyiMl in the hold of one of the ships, was knocked down by a chest of tea, falling from the deck upon him. He was taken \ip for dead, and concealed in a neighboring carpenter's shoj) under a pile of shavings. After the party had flnished they returned, and found Crane living. * Some of these names are from Lossing's Field-Book. 284 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Several persons who were detected in tlie act of secreting the fragrant plant were roughly handled. " One Captain O'Connor," says Hewes, " whom I well knew, came on hoard for this purpose, and when he supposed he was not noticed, filled his pockets, and also the lining of his coat. But I had de- tected him, and gave information to the captain of what he was doing. We were ordered to take him into custody, and just as he was stepping from the vessel, I seized him hy the skirt of his coat, and in attempting to pull him hack, I tore it off ; but springing for- ward by a rapid effort, he made his escajje. He had, however, to run the gantlet of the crowd upon the wharf ; each one as he passed giv- ing him a kick or a stroke. The next day we nailed the skirt of his coat, which I had pulled off, to the whipping-post in Charlesto^vn, the place of his residence, with a label upon it." Griffin's Wharf, as well as Wheelwright's, had a number of large warehouses, in which had been quartered the detachment of the 59th, and the train of artillery which landed in Octo- ber, 1768. A fire caught in one of the stores used as a labor- atory in March, 1760, aiid an explosion occurred, injuring sev- eral men and terrifying the neighborhood. Eowe's Wharf coincides with the old Southern Battery or Sconce, an outwork of Fort Hill, and terminus in this direction of the famous Barricado. As early as 1632 a fort was begun on the eminence then called Corn Hill, but soon changed to the Fort-field, and finally to Fort Hill. The Bostonians were aided by their brethren from Charlestown, Eoxbury, and Dorchester ; two years after, it was declared in a state of defence. The Sconce was probably not built until some time after the main work, perhaps at the time of the Dutch war. It was con- structed of whole timber, with earth and stone between, and was considered very strong. In time of peace it was in charge of a gunner only, but had its company assigned to it in case of danger. In 1705 it was commanded by Captain Timothy Clark, who was ordered to furnish an account of the ordnance, ammunition, etc., "meete to bee offered hys Grace the Duke of Marlborough Great Master of her Majestye's Ordnance." In 1743 the battery mounted thirty-five guns ; at this time no work appears on the summit of the hill. In 1774 Jeremiah FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 285 Green "was captain with the rank of major. The JJritish con- tinued to liokl it with a garrison, and had a laboratory there. Colonel Pomeroy's regiment, the 6-4th, occupied the hill in Xovember, 17G8 ; the Welsh Fusileers, who had won a splendid name for valor at Minden, were posted there in 1774, and in 1775 the works contained four hundred men. After the evacu- ation the works were found gi'eatly damaged, but were occu- pied and strengthened by the Americans. Du Portail, chief engineer of the American army, came to Boston in October, 1778, to make a survey of the works, when this with others was strengthened and put in the best posture of defence. Sub- sequently, in 1779, when AVashington was fortifying the passes of the Hudson on a great scale, the heavy guns were removed from all the works here and sent forward to the army against which Clinton was then advancing. The battery and fort acquire a celebrity as the theatre of the seizure and deposition of Governor Andros. In April, 1089, the news of the landing of the Prince of Orange at Torbay reached Boston, and threw the town into a fcn-ment. The gov- ernor, Ptandolph, and some others sought the security of the fort ; the drums beat to arms, and the inhabitants ran from all quarters to the Town House, where they joined their respective companies. The captain of a frigate which lay before the town was seized on shore, and held as a hostage. Ai)proaching the hill by the rear, the train-bands divided, a part going an.und by the water to the battery. A few soldiers in this work rctn-ated up the hill to the main body, and the townsmen turned the guns upon them. Andros cursed and fumed, but was forced to yield himself a prisoner, with his companions. Some were imprisoned in the old jail ; his Excellency was placed untler guard at Mr. Usher's house. The frigate still showeil tiglit, and lay with her ports triced up, and her men at ([uarters ; but after the people had got possession of all the forlilications and pointed the guns at her, the captain was ('onijx'lled to send down his topmasts, unbend his sails, and send them ashon\ 1 he keys of the Castle were next extorted from Andros, and the bloodless revolution was ended. It is said Sir IMnuuid was 286 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON". handcuffed as he was conducted from the fort ; we may well believe he was not allowed to pass through the ranks of the townsmen without some reminders of his fallen state. Probably Old Boston never knew a day of greater rejoicing than that which brought the news of Burgoyne's surrender. The rumor of the falling back of the American army to Still- water had been received with deep forebodings for the future, speedily dissipated by the glad tidings of the greatest victory of the war. A thundering salute was fired from Fort Hill and Dorchester ^eck. Hope animated every heart anew, and joy was visible in every countenance. From the Sconce, the lane leading up the hill to the fort was named Sconce Lane, since Hamilton Street, and the walk along the beach the Batterymarch. A specimen of the small arms in use at the time of the set- tlement is in the Historical Society's possession. The guns were without locks, match or fuse being used at the rate of two fathoms for every pound of powder and twenty bullets ; pikes were still in use for foot-soldiers. "Where are those old and feudal clans, Their pikes and bills and partisans ; Their hauberks, jerkins, buffs ? A battle was a battle then, A breathing piece of work ; but men Fight now with powder puffs," The building lately occupied by a Glass Company at the corner of Hamilton Street was the residence of Benjamin Hal- lowell, grandfather of the admiral. It became afterwards a noted inn, known as the " Sun," and kept by Goodrich in 1822. This old Sun Tavern, now while we write nearly demolished, is the third or fourth of that name in Boston. One of the same name was in Dock Square in 1724, kept by Samuel Mears ; another was in Cornhill in 1755, kept by Captain James Day : we may suppose the conjunction of names did not escape the wits of the day. The sign of the Sun in Bat- terymarch Street has been compared in shape to a gravestone, with its circular top. There the likeness ended ; for underneath the rays of a gilded su>n was the legend, — * FROM THE OLD SOUTH ROUND FORT HILL. 287 " The best Ale and Porter Under the Sun." By a curious transition the sign was afterwards erected in Moon Street, where it became the proper symbol of Mrs. ]Milk, whose mixtures were perhaps not as mild as the name indicated. Few of her customers escaped a coup de soleil ; her neighbors were Waters, Beer, and Legg. Sun Court, near by, retiected the name of the greater luminary. At the east corner of Milk Street and Liberty Square was the Commercial Coffee House, built on the site of Hallowell's shipyard. It was kept by AVilliam Meriani from 1817 until about 1830, and was a house of considerable resort for ship- masters. In 1838 Jolin Low was landlord, and later Colone*! AVhitney. Its place is now occupied by Thorndike's granite building. Here was in 1798 the principal shipyard in the town, from which was launched the ship Genet fully rigged, and named in honor of the then French minister to this country. Siste Viator. We were about to invite the reader to ascend Fort Hill. The waters of the harbor have swallowed the emi- nence, and it is as completely obliterated as if an earthquake had engulfed it. The base indeed is left, but it reijuires a strong imagination to picture an elevation eighty feet above us, bearing on its top the elegant mansions of a past generation, with the tops of noble elms waving in the cool sea-breezes. Yet this was the peculiar spot to which residents were invited fifty years ago, with the assurance that the green park on its top would afford a perpetual place of recreation. The streets which struggled up the sides of tlie hill were once peopled with a highly respectable class, but Broad Street and the outlying works were soon carried by Irish, and the citadel was yielded to them. From the hill radiated the wharves, like the fingers of the hand ; the eastern slope was ]ieopled by ship artisans and mechanics pertaining to that craft. The summit of the hill was levelled so as to form a plateau, in the centre of which was the grass-plat encircled with an iron fence and studded with trees. On the south side was built the Buylston 288 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. School and gun-house of the Washington Artillery ; the space enclosed by the buildings on the other sides was called Wash- ington Place. The school received its name in honor of Thomas and Ward Nicholas Boylston, liberal benefactors of Boston and the neighboring University. A windmill was erected on the hill in the year 1701. The Washington Artillery Company, on one of its annual visits to East Boston for target-practice, gave a sample of their gunnery by knocking over a cow with a twelve-pounder shot. The owner received the price demanded for the slaughtered animal. The company, with a keen eye to business, had the cow dressed and sold at a considerable advance on the price paid the owner. The land from the hill-top no doubt furnished the material for filling up the docks east of Kilby and Batterymarch Streets. The old fort had disappeared long before the Revolution, and it was not until then that the hill was again fortified. In 1869 the levelling of the hill was ordered, and fully completed within three years. A dreary waste of gravel flanlved by bare founda- tion walls, a stump here and there of the once noble ehns, are all that is left of Fort Hill. Sic ii^ansit. A TOUR KOUND THE COMMON. 289 CHAPTER X. A TOUR ROUXD THE COMMON. Long Acre. — Tremont House. — Mr. Clay. — President Jackson. — Charles Dickens. — Little House-lot. — Tremont Theatre. — The Cadets. — Adino Paddock. — Paddock's ]\Iall. — Granary Burying-Ground. — The Granary, — Almshouse. — Workhouse. — Bridewell. — Park Street Church. — Man- ufactory House. — Linen-Spinning Introduced. — Elisha Brown. — Massa- chusetts Bank. — Licident of the Lexington Expedition. — The Common. — Its Origin. — The Great Mall. — Fences. — Winter Street. — Governor Bernard. — John McLean. — Samuel Adams. — St. Paul's. — Masonic Tem- ple. — Margaret Fuller. — Washington Gardens. — The Haymarket. — West Street. — The Gun-House. — Colonnade Row. — Massachusetts Med- ical College. — Haymarket Theatre. — Boylston Street. — Jolm Quincy Adams. — General Moreau. — Charles Francis Adams. UPOX the pavement of Tremont Street once more, Ave renew our \yanderings in the vicinity of the Okl Granary Bury- ing-Ground. Common Street was the first distinctive appella- tion received by that part of Tremont from School Street to Boylston, or, to copy the language of the record, " from ^lelyne's corner, near Colonel Townsend's, passing through the Common, along by Mr. Sheef's into Frog Lane." It did not become Tremont Street until 1829. The name of Long Acre was given to that part of the street between School and AVinter by Adino Paddock, of whom something anon. He came from tliat part of London in which the great plague originated, and which was noted for its mughouses. In London Long Acre is tlie scene of Matt Prior's amours, when, after an evening witli Swift, Oxford, Bolingbroke, and Pope, he would go and smoke a i)ipe and drink a bottle of beer with a common soldier. This name of Paddock's was generally accepted, thougli we do not learn that it ever had any official sanction. Tlie Tremont House, though not an old landmark, is a pn^m- inent one. The corner-stone was laid on the 4th of July, 182S, and it was opened to the i)ublic October 16, 1829. Isaiah 13 8 290 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Eogers was the architect. It was thought to be, and was at this time, a model of kixury and elegance. It has seen some notable guests. Henry Clay, or, more familiarly, Harry of the West, tarried here. So did his antagonist, then President, Jackson, on his visit to Boston in June, 1833. These two men gave rise to two party watchwords which have been perpetuated in a singular manner. Two rival political bands of Kentuckians went to settle on the banks of the Missouri. One party came from the Blue-Grass region, and were Clay men. The other was from the Big Sandy, and were Jackson men. The battle- cry of the parties was, "Clay and Liberty," "Jackson and Independence." Each little band of settlers named their vil- lages for their war-cry, and eventually the counties for their political chiefs. So they now remain. Brave Hull came also to see the docking of his old ship, the Constitution. Charles Dickens, on his first visit to America, came to the Tremont House. It took him eighteen days to come over in the Britannia. It is said the first person he asked for on his arrival was Bryant ; but, as the steamer reached her dock after dark, we may conclude the comforts of his hotel engrossed the novelist's mind. He gives a somewhat humorous account of his initiation into American hotel customs : — " ' Dimier, if you please,' said I to the waiter. " ' When ? ' said the waiter. " ' As quick as possible/ said I. " ' Right away i ' said the waiter. " After a moment's hesitation, I answered ' No,' at hazard. " ' Not right away ? ' cried the waiter, with an amount of surprise that made me start. " I looked at him doubtfully, and returned, ' No ; I would rather have it in this private room. I like it very much.' " At this, I really thought the waiter must have gone out of his mind ; as I believe he would have done, but for the interposition of another man who whispered in his ear, ' Directly.' " ' Well ! and that 's a fact ! ' said the waiter, looking helplessly at me. ' Right away.' " I now saw that * right away ' and ' directly ' were one and the same thing. So I reversed my previous answer, and sat down to dinner in ten minutes afterwards, and a capital dinner it was. A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 291 '•The hotel (a very excellent one) is called the Treniont House. It has more galleries, colonnades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would believe." Lieutenant Derby, better known as Johu Phoenix, humor- ously reviews the prospect of the burial-ground from the windows, which he considered, not Avithout some degree of plausibility, part and parcel of all Boston hotels. Derby was a very clever artist, and used to draw comic caricatures on the blackboard of Jones's in San Francisco. This was before the merchants had an exchange there, and Phrenix was accustomed to put himself mider the head of ship arrivals, instead of regis- tering his name at the office. The little garden beyond the hotel, and next the cemetery, was once a house-lot, on wliich stood a modest little brick dwelling, built by a Mr. Ne^vman. The hotel displaced three ante-Pevolutionary houses : one, fronting Beacon Street, was the residence of John Parker ; the corner of Tremont was an open lot, with handsome horse-chestnut trees, belonging to an old-fashioned house with the end to the street, the mansion of the Hubbard family. Next was a house built by Tliomas Per- kins, whose wife was a ]\Iascarene. It fronted on the street, and had a garden. The old Tremont Theatre stood on the spot now covered by the Tremont Temple. The corner-stone was laid on the morn- ing of July 4, 1827. The theatre was built so rapidly that a performance took place on the 24th of September. " Wives as they Were, and Maids as they Are," was the piece chosen by :Mr. Pelby. Ostinelli, the father of the since famous Eliza Biscaccianti, led the orchestra. W. K. Blake read the prize address, — the same eminent comedian so long connected with the New York theatres. Mr. Pelby was the prime mover in the project to erect another theatre, which had professedly for its object the elevation of the character of the Boston stage. But little opposition was en- countered from the Boston Theatre proprietors. A company was organized in February, and the work presseil to early com- pletion. We give the cast for the opening night ; — 292 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. TREMONT THEATRE. The public is respectfully informed that the Tremont Tlieatre Will open On Monday Evening, Se]Dtember 24. jg®^ The Orchestra will embrace the most distinguished musical talent in the country. Leader Mr. Ostinelli. There will be presented Mrs. Inchbald's Comedy, called WIVES AS THEY WERE, AND MAIDS AS THEY ARE. Lord Priory, Mr. Herbert. Sir William Dorillon, Mr. Webb. Sir George Evelyn, Mr, Reed. Mr. Browzly, Mr. Blake. Mr. Norberry, Mr. Forbes. Oliver, Mr. J. Mills Brown. Miss Dorillon, Mrs. Blake. Lady Mary Raffle, Mrs. Young. Lady Priory, Mrs. Pelby. Previous to the Comedy, the Prize address will be delivered by Mr. Blake. The entertainment to conclude with the Farce of the LADY AND THE DEVIL. The elder Booth succeeded Pelby in the management of the second season, but withdrew before it ended. Wilson and Eussell successively conducted, the latter bringing out the cele- brated Master Burke, who produced an unparalleled excitement. Tor twenty-five nights he filled the house with fashionable au- diences.. Messrs. Barrett and Barry were subsequent managers. The Tremont always maintained a high standing, though its patronage fell off in later years. It is noticeable as the first Boston house in which operas were produced. Many sterling actors have appeared here, among whom the veteran John Gilbert and wife still hold a high place in general esteem. Finn played here, investing his parts with a quaint fine humor that seldom failed to set the house in a roar. In 1842 the Tremont ceased to be a theatre, having been sold to the Baptist Society of Eev. Dr. Colver. The interior was remodelled, and received the name of the Tremont Temple. The present build- ing is the second, the first having been destroyed by fire on Wednesday, March 31, 1852. The falling walls crushed and bruised a number of persons. The Theatre was a plain substantial edifice with granite front, A TOUR KOUND THE COMMON. 293 in imitation of the Ionic, ^vith pillars supporting an enta})la- ture and pediment. The entrance doors were arched, opening into a wide hall from which ascended a staircase to the boxes of the dress circle. There were lobbies for promenade, with- drawing-rooms, and a pretty saloon in the centre. l.saiah liogers was the architect. The house had a thiixl tier and pit. It was sold for about $ 55,000. Eliliu Burritt, the learned blacksmith, lectured in the tlu-atre before its alteration, for the benefit of the Church Society. Under the auspices of the Mercantile Library Association, "Webster, Choate, and Everett have delivered addresses in the Temple, while Jenny Lind and Catherine Hays have here jioured forth their golden notes to enraptured audiences. Here, too, Gliddon unrolled his mummy in presence of astonished spectators, and set the medical fraternity in a fever of ex- citement. Last, but not least, came Charles Dickens, to in- terpret his own incomparable works. In the building adjoining the Temple are the quarters of the Independent CadetSj-^ihe oldest military organization, next to the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, in Boston. This corps was instituted in 1786, but existed prior to that tune. It was first styled the Governor's Foot Guards. The comman- ders had the rank of lieutenant-colonel. Leonard Jarvis was the commander in 1768, and John Hancock was ele('t«'d in The Boston Gazette of May 12, 1772, contains the following advertisement : — " "Wanted, Immcdiatebj, For His Excellency's Company of CatU'ts, Two Fifers that understand Playing. Those that are Mastei-s of Musiek, and are inclined to engage with the Company, are dcsiretl to apply to Col. John Hancock." The company received General Gage wlien lie lanih-d at Long WHiarf, in May, 1774, and escorteost(.nians 13* 298 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. have received no fitting testimonial from their countrymen. The spot was long indicated by a larch-tree, but this, falling to decay, has been recently replaced by the care of Mr. Appollonio. The Franklin cenotaph stands out in bold relief in the midst of the field of the dead. Under it repose the dust of both of Franklin's parents. The monument was erected through the exertions of a few citizens in 1827, and the ceremony of laying the corner-stone was attended by the governor, lieutenant-gov- ernor, and many other officials. General H. A. S. Dearborn delivered an address ; some Franklin School medals were appro- priately placed underneath. By the year 1738 both this and King's Chapel ground be- came so filled with the dead that the grave-diggers were obliged to bury them four deep. In this year the brick wall and tombs were erected on tlie front of the old, or Chapel, burying-place. The Granary ground was enlarged in 1716-17 by taking in part of the highway on the easterly side, but in about twenty years it became overcrowded, as we have seen, and the town began to cast about for a new location. It was not until after the date last mentioned that any tombs were erected here. Where was there ever a graveyard without its attendant hor- rors ] Tradition is responsible for the statement that the hand of Hancock was severed from the arm the night after his inter- ment ; but this proved a cruel invention. An instance is given of an empty tomb being taken possession of by some wandering vagrants, from which they terrified the neighborhood by the sound of midnight revelry. Human jackals have practised here their hateful calling, robbing the graves of their peaceful inhabitants. The stone wall and fence were erected under the administra- tion of Mayor Armstrong. It is now proposed to carry a new avenue across the cemetery. This being done, the remains of the greatest and most honored of our ancestors will be scattered far and near. " Imperial Cassar, dead, and tiirned to clay, Might stop a hole to keep the wind away." Next the burial-ground stood the Old Granary. It was a A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 299 long wooden building, crecti'd lirst at the upper side of the Com- mon, but removed about 1737 to the present site of the church. It was established so as to have a supply of grain, especially in cases of scarcity, where the poor might purchase the smallest quantities at a small advance on the cost. The building con- tained, when full, twelve thousand bushels, and was the largest in the town. The selectmen appointed a keeper at their March meeting, also a committee for the purchase of grain. John Fenno, a noted wit, Avas keeper before the Ilevohition. It was not used as a granary after the American war, but was occupieil by various minor town officials. In 1795 the town voted to sell the building, on condition of an early removal. Still it remained tenanted by various tradesmen, refreshment stands, etc., until 1809, when it was removed to Commercial Point, Dorchester, and altered into a hotel. There it may now be seen. AVe have noticed that the Constitution's sails were made in the Granary. All the land upon which Park Street is built belonged to the Common, and was at an early day appropriated to uses of the town for various institutions. The street was first called Centry Street, from its leading u^) to Centry Hill, as the summit of Beacon Hill was called. The Almshouse was first erected on Beacon Street, in 1 GG2. It was burnt in 1G82, measures being then taken to rebuild it. The reconstructed building was a two-story brick, with a gable roof, fronting on Beacon Street ; it was of an L shape. This was designed as a home for the poor, aged, or infirm. It w;i3 soon found that the mingling under the same roof i)f ]>erson3 deserving charity with those confined for offences against tho laws was an evil demanding a remedy, anel measures wero taken, in 1712, to build a Bridewell, or House of Correction. This was erected in Park Street, in what year does not appear, but it is shown on the map of 1722. A part of this house was applied to the use of the insane. A Workhouse was erected in 1738, contiguous to the Bride- well. It was a large, handsome brick building, facing the Common, of two stories, gable roof, and was a hundred antl 300 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. twenty feet in length. This building was devoted to the con- finement of minor offenders, such as the j^rovince law styled " rogues and vagabonds." The Ahnshouse became, in the lapse of years, totally inade- quate to its purposes. It had no proper ventilation, nor sepa- rate hospital for the treatment of the sick ; bad air, filth, and overcrowding told fearfully upon the inmates. I^o remedy was applied to these evils until 1801, when a new building was erected in Leverett Street. During the Eevolutionary War the inmates frequently suffered for the necessaries of life, and appear to have been at all times largely dependent on the charity of the townspeople. In 1795 the town sold all its property on Park and Beacon Streets, except the Granary or church lot. •Both Almshouse and Workhouse were under the government of the overseers of the poor, represented by keepers. The inmates of the former, whatever may have been their temporal needs, were cared for sj^iritually, a sermon being preached to them every Sunday in summer. Captain Keayne, in 1656, left a legacy of £ 120, and Mr. Webb, in 1660, one of £ 100, for the founding of the Almshouse, which was received and applied by the town in 1662. The former also left a smn to be used in building a granary. Both Workhouse and Almshouse were occupied by the British wounded after Bunker Hill. Adjoining the BrideweU was the Pound, situated where the Quincy residence now is. Such were the antecedents of Park and Beacon Streets. For a long time the handsome spire of Park Street Church was the highest object seen on approaching the city. It, how- ever, succumbed to its neighbor in Somerset Street, placed at a greater altitude. As one of the monuments of the Common it is inseparable from the landscape, the slender, graceful steeply rising majestically above the tree-tops from any point of obser- vation. The little monitor of the weather on its pinnacle recalls the lines of Albert G. Greene : — " The dawn has broke, the mom is up, Another day begun ; And there thy poised and gikled spear Is flashing in the sun, A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 301 Upon tliat steeji and lofty tower, Where thou thy watch liast kept, A true and faithful sentinel, Wliile all around thee slept." The church was erected in 1809, and was the first Congrega- tional Society constituted since 1748. From the fervor of the doctrines i^reaclied within its walls, its site has been known as "Brimstone Corner," — a name too suggestive to be agreeable. PARK STREKT Edward D. (Iriffin, D. D., was tlie first pastor. Pwight, Imm-cIkt, Stone, and other gifted preacliers liave occupied its j)idpit. Underneath were vaults — long since removed — for the dead. Peter Banner, an Englisli architect, the same who made the plan f.)r the fine old mansion-house of Eben Crafts in Ivoxbury, de- signed this church. The Manufactory House of the old colony times stood on the east side of what is Hamilton Place. The west end fronted Long Acre, or Tremont Street, and had delmeated upon the 302 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. LINEN SPINNING-WHEEL. wall a female figure, distaff in hand, symbolic of the industry- it was intended to promote. The establishment of spinning-schools is an interesting inci- dent in the history of Boston. The manufacture of cotton had begun as early as 1643, the raw material being obtained from the West Indies. In 1665, owing to the scarcity of cloth, the court ordered spinning to be' em- ployed in private families, some abate- ment from the rates being made as compensation. About 1718a number of colonists arrived from Londonderry, bringing with them the manufacture of linen and the implements used in Ireland. The matter was earnestly taken up by the Bosto- nians, and a vote passed to establish a spinning-school on the waste land in front of Captain Southack's, t- about Avhere Scol- lay's buildings were. These emigrants likewise introduced the general use of their favorite vegetable, the potato. From these beginnings dates the establishment of the Manu- factory House by the province. William Phillips, INIolineux, and others carried the measure through the General Court. An excise was laid on carriages and articles of luxury to erect the build- ing. Spinning now became the order of the day. Young and old, rich and poor, repaired to the Com- mon with their spinning-wheels, great and small, stimulated by a premium offered to the most skilful. Many were clad in garments of their own manufacture as evidence of their industry, and on the appointed days the mall resounded with the hum of busy wheels. The novelty soon wore off, and after tliree or four years the manufacture wholly ceased. For a short WOOLLEN SPINNING-WHEEL. A TOUR KOUXD THE COMMON. 303 time aftonvards it was used for tlie manufacture of worsted liose, metal buttons, etc., but in 17G8 was rented by the prov- ince and occupied by private families. At tliis time it acquired celebrity from the attempt made by Colonel Dalrymple, of the.l4tli royal regulars, to obtain it for quarters for his regiment ; but the tenants, with ^Ir. Elisha Brown at their head, flatly refused them admission. Governor Bernard issued his mandate, which was served by the sheriff, ordering the surrender of the premises ; but the doors were securely closed, and Brown boldly denied the right of Bernard to dispossess him. The wily lieutenant-governor tried next to induce the tenants to open, but with no greater success, and at last a stratagem was tried. The sheriff and his deputies ob- tained an entrance to the cellar, but instead of securing the obstinate tenant, Avere by him made close prisoners in the cellar, where they remained until a file of soldiers from the Com- mon came and released them. Thus did Elisha Brown make good his resistance against the combined civil and military authority of the province, after enduring a state of siege for several weeks. A gravestone in the Granary commemorates his gallant vindication of private rights. Dalrymple's men were quartered in Faneuil Hall. The ^Massachusetts Bank was first located in this building. It was instituted in 1784, in which year the 1)ank became a purchaser of the building, sold by order of the General Court. Banking was a very different affair in those days from wliat it is at present. Articles of merchandise were received as security for loans, and an entertaining picture might be drawn of the procession drawn up before the doors on discount days. One half per cent per month was the rate demanded, and no credit could exceed sixty days. Governor Bowdoin was the first president. The building was of two stories, of brick, with an entrance on Hamilton "Place by a flight of doultle stone steps jiroteetcd by an iron railing. It was used by the British during the occuj)ation, and received its quota of the wounded from Bunker Hill. Various families occupied it in after years ; also P. A. von 304 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Hagen, a pioneer in the manufacture of pianofortes. In 1806 it was pulled clown, and Hamilton Place then built. The Manufactory House was one hundred and forty, feet long, with an unobstructed southerly view in 1784. It had a large hall in the centre, with wings fifty feet long extending upon either side ; underneath was an excellent cellar, the same in which Sheriff Greenleaf sojourned. The central part was occupied by the bank, giving twenty other apartments for tenants. The land belonging to it covered the whole place. At the corner of Hamilton Place Messrs. J. E. Osgood and Company continue the publication of the leading ]Deriodical of the country. The originator of the North American Review was William Tudor, son of Hon. Judge Tudor, and one of the founders of the Anthology Club. The first four volumes of the Review, which was first jDublished in 1811, are said to be almost entirely from his hand ; the first number, even to the literary notices, was, as Mr. Tudor himself stated, wholly writ- ten by him. Mr. Tudor, as the agent of his brother Frederick, established in 1805 the traffic in ice with the West Indies, which has grown to such prodigious proportions. He was also the first to draw public attention to the erection of a monument on Bunker Hill, but did not live to see its completion. As we are trenching on the limits of Long Acre, a Revolu- tionary incident rises into view. Here, on the morning of the 19th of April, Earl Percy ranged his columns for the march to Lexington. Colonel Smith had sent a courier requesting rein- forcements, and Percy was to command them. His brigade, made up of eight companies of three regiments of infantry, the 4th, 23d, and 49th, detachments of Pitcairn's marines, and two pieces of artillery, extended from the head of the mall to Court Street, opposite the school-house of Master Carter. Percy, mounted on a white horse, galloped up and down his ranks. The school, thrown into a ferment by the unusual spectacle, was dismissed by the master with the speech, — " Boys, war has begun ; the school is broken up." The column took up its march over the Neck to the tune of Yankee Doodle. Percy seems to have stood high in the confi- A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 305 dence of his general, and, in fact, lie appears to have boon a universal favorite. The return from the niarcli in wliich the provincials ** Taught Percy fashionable races, And modern modes of Chevy-chaces," is celebrated in the Eevolutionary ballad in this wise : — " Lord Piercy seemed to snore, — but may the muse This ill-timed snoring to the jieer excuse. Tired was the long boy of his toilsome day ; Full tifteeu miles he tied, — a tedious way ; How should he then the dews of Somnus shun, Perhaps not used to walk, much less to run." The Common is now, as under the government of John Win- tlirop, the common land of the inhabitants of Boston. Its original purpose was for pasturage and military parade. From the earliest times until after Boston became a city, the tinkling of bells and lowing of cattle might be heard across its hills and dales. It was, after its purchase from Blackstone, preserved from encroachment by a vote passed March 30, 16-40 : — " Ordered, that no more land be granted in the Town out of the open ground or common field, which is between Gentry Hill and Mr. C()ll)rou's end, except 3 or 4 lots to make vp the street from Bro. Robt. Walker's to the Round IVIarsh." Colbron's field was at the lower end of the Common, lying along Pleasant Street and the water, to Washington Street. It was lioylston Street that the selectmen had in view. No other city in America has fifty acres of green turf and noble forest trees in its very midst. Its central position renders it accessible from every quarter of the town, and, althongli it is not dignified with the name of a park, it is at onro tlio glory and beauty of the ancient peninsula. We shall lake up its features as we pass along under the green arches of the (Jreat i\Iall. Upon the earliest map you will see but three trees on the Common. These were the monarch, then and still known as the *' great tree," and two of respectable size standing near the middle of Park Street. The first trees planted were tho outer row on Tremont Street, between 1722 and 1729. A second T 306 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. row was placed there in 1734, and the third was added fifty years later, — some authorities say before the Revolution. This walk was long known as "The Mall," there being no other within the Common, until that next Beacon Street was laid out in 1815-16. Charles Street was the next laid out, in 1823 ; and Park Street Mall, in 1826, under the elder Quincy's may- oralty. It has been stated, on the authority of the son of one of those employed, that the first trees of the Great Mall, set out near the Park Street Church, were planted by the apprentices of Adam Colson the elder, then one of the selectmen of the town. One of the apprentices was named Hurd. Colson was a leather-dresser, and lived in Frog Lane, now Boylston Street. But the Great Mall was not at the beginning of this century, as now, a grove of near a third of a mile in length. The large trees scarcely extended below West Street, those beyond being merely saplings. That part of the Common forming the southeast corner, comprising a little more than two acres, and lying east of the burying-ground, was not acquired until 1787, when it was purchased of William Poster, whose mansion stood where now the Hotel Pelham is. The tract acquired was known as Foster's Pasture. The British soldiers, with a truly vandal spirit, cut down several of the largest trees in the mall the morning they evac- uated the town. A large number had before been sacrificed to provide fuel, but this was the act of malice alone. The surface of the Common was greatly disfigured by cellars and ditches dug throughout the camps, traces of which long remained visible, even to the circles made by the tents. General Howe stayed the destruction of the trees of the mall at the solicita- tion of the selectmen. Before the Eevolution there was a wooden fence, but this, too, was used for fuel, and the Common lay open until after the peace, when it was rebuilt by a subscription set on foot by Dr. Oliver Smith. The iron fence was erected in 1836, at a cost of $82,500. Its length is 1,932 yards, — rather more than a A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 307 mile. In 1733, when the town voted to plant a second row of trees at a suitable distance from those ah-eady set out, the selectmen were directed to set up a row of posts with a rail on the top of them, extending from the Granary L>urying-G round to Colonel Fitche's, leaving openings at tlie several streets and lanes. In 1739 a similar fence was ordered from Common Street to Beacon. The Common appears to have been first called " Centry Field," taking this name from the hill on whose slope it lay, which later received the name of Beacon Hill. Century Field is another instance of the quaint orthography, of which the records furnish abundant specimens. It ai)pears to have been indifferently called the "Training Field" and "Centry Field" for a long time. Turning once more to the street, we pause at the entrance of the Music Hall. There was, in 1768, a hall of this name in Brattle Street, opposite the meeting-house. A concert was ad- vertised to be given November 21, 1768, to be followed by a ball. Tickets twenty shillings, lawful money. On the corner of Winter Street once stood an old a nto-IJ evo- lutionary house, with a fine garden, in which, it is said, Oovernor Bernard at one time made his town residence. It became a famous boarding-house under the successive aus])ices of ^Frs. Hatch and Mrs. Dexter. Governor Strong, when in town during his second term, resided with Mrs. Hatch. The following toast was published in 1817, as having b.'on given at the celebration by the blacks in Boston of tiu; anni- versary of the abolition of the slave-trade : — " Governur Brouks, may the mantelpiece of Caleb Strong fall Mjxtn the lied of his distinguished predecessor.'* John McLean, the eminent merchant, founder of th»> McLean Asylum, boarded with ]\[rs. Dexter. His finan<'ial reverses are well known. It is related of him that he one day a.ssembled his creditors at a dinner, where each found under his jdate a check for the full amount due him. This was after he had been legally released from his obligations. 308 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON.' Among the names bestowed upon this busy mart of fashion was Blott's Lane, from Robert Blott ; also Bannister's and Wil- lis's Lane. Winter Street once boasted a resident so influential in the cause of liberty as to receive the distinction of outlawry from George III. The offences of Samuel Adams and John Hancock were too flagitious to admit of pardon. The house of Samuel Adams stood on the south side of Winter Street, on the corner of Winter Place. It was a two-story wooden house, fronting on the street ; at the back was an L, and in the rear a small gar- den. The building was standing as late as 1820, and, while it re- mained, was not the least interesting object to be seen in Boston. Samuel Adams was a Boston boy. Born in 1722, he had seen the administrations of the royal governors from Burnet to Gage. He took his degree at eighteen at Harvard, and after trying unsuccessfully a merchant's career, devoted himself to literature, until called to a political life. First a tax-gatherer, then a representative, his influence begins to appear at the com- mencement of the Stamp Act difficulties. After the Massacre, he overbore the flimsy objections of Hutchinson to a removal of the troops from the town by a manly, bold, and unanswer- able argument. In later times, in all the movements of the people of Boston preceding actual hostilities, Samuel Adams was the admitted power behind the throne. Warren was brave, Hancock rich, and Adams sagacious. It was remarked of Hancock that he paid the postage, while Adams did the writing. Lord North, when informed that Hutchinson had yielded to the demand of the chairman of the town committee, called the regulars " Sam Adams's two regiments," in contempt. The Ministry styled him " Chief of the Revolution." Mr. Jefferson's opinion of Samuel Adams is a concise and deserved tribute to the patriot. Says the sage of 'Monticello, '' I can say that he was truly a great man, — wise in council, fertile in resources, immovable in his purposes, — and had, I think, a greater share than any other member in advising and directing our measures in the Northern war." A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. IJO'J When Adams, a fugitive with Hancock, heard the liring on Lexington Common, he exulted, knowing that the day of hu- miHation was passing forever away. The sword was now to decide the contest, and Adams labored without intermission in the councils of the incipient nation. He was an active member of tlie Congress of 1774; and he drew up, with John Adams, the draft of the State Constitution. A member of the con- vention to consider the Federal Constitution, he was not at first in favor of its adoption, but acceded to the i)lan of Hancock to ratify the instrument and propose amendments to it in accord with the views of Massachusetts statesmen. Ho was lieutenant-governor under Hancock, and followed him to his last resting-place. From 1794 to 1797 the venerable Sam- uel Adams governed the State. He died in 1803, an octoge- narian. It is related by Waterhouse that the two Adamses, John and Samuel, were one day walking in the mall we have just bi-un describing. As they came oj)i)osite the noble mansion of Han- cock the latter remarked, with emphasis, " I have done a very good thing for our cause, in the course of the past week, by en- listing the master of that house into it. He is well disposed, and has great riches, and we can give him cousecpience to enjoy them." Samuel Adams was of ordinary height, muscular form, and had light complexion and light blue eyes. He wore a red cloak, a gray tie-wig, and cocked hat. In person ho was vciy erect. His father was a brewer, and his son Samuel succeeded to his business. Admiral Coffin used to relate that hr had rar- ried malt on his back from Adams's brewery. The old estate on Purchase Street, where Adams was ]).)rn, was only about sixty feet north of Summer. It faced the harbor, commanding a fine view, and was conspicuous among the few buildings contemi)orary with it. On tlie roof was an ol)- servatory and a railing, witli steps leading u}) from the outside. It was improved in 1730, and the grounds wcn^ still adorn.-.l with trees and shrubbery as late as 1800.* Tliis was the estate * Wells's Life of Samuel Adams, 310 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. preserved by Samuel Adams after his father's unsuccessful speculation in the Land Bank scheme. Other statesmen and soldiers famous in the pages of history have walked in the old mall. We have no doubt that Wash- ington and Winslow, Loudon, Amherst, and Hood, Gage, Clin- ton, Burgoyne, and Howe, have all sought its leafy shades. Talleyrand, Moreau, Louis Philippe, and Lafayette have doubt- less paced within its cool retreats, and meditated upon the fate of empires they were to build or overtlirow. Silas Deane, Pulaski, Gates, and Greene have certainly trod this famous walk. St. Paul's, overshadowed and overtopped as it is by its feudal- looking neighbor, has yet some points of attraction. It was ST. PAULS CTITTRCII AND MASONIC TEMPLE. designed by Captain Alexander Parris, though, it is said, Wih lard drew some of the working plans, and superintended the stone-work, cutting some of the ca})itals with his own hand in the adjoining gardens. The front is unfinished, and the general A TOUR ROUND THE COMMOX. 311 aspect of the building did not satisfy the expectation for a model of ancient art. The pediment was intended to 1)l', orna- mented with bas-reliefs representing Paul l)efore Agrippa, which would have added to the beauty of the front, but want of funds compelled the abandonment of this design. The main building is of gray gi'anite, once white, but now blackened by the action of the elements. The portico is of sandstone from Accpiia Creek, tlie columns of which have been compared, not inaptly, to a collection of grindstones, they being composed of many separate sections. Taken as a whole, the appearance of 8t. Paid's may be styled " dark, gloomy, and peculiar." The erection of St. Paul's marked an era in the architecture of Boston churches. Hitherto the houses of worship were of the same general character, King's Chapel and Brattle Street alone excepted. The latter were the only departures from the stiff, and, we may add, ugly structures introduced by tin- Puri- tans. St. Paul's was the first specimen of the i)nrc Ionic in the town. This was the fourth Episcopal church erected in Boston ; consecrated June 30, 1820. Dr. Samuel F. Jarvis was the first rector. The interior is chaste and beautiful. The ceding is a cylindrical vault, Avith panels spanning the wlude widtli (tf tlm church. Underneath the floor are tombs. The remains of General Warren were deposited under St. Paul's in the tt»nd) of his nephew, Dr. John Q. Warren, until removed in August, 1855, to tlie ftmnly vault at Forest Hills. Solomon Willard came to Boston in 1804, and first worked at his trade of carpenter. He was employed on tlie faiiKMis Kx- change Coffee House, the conflagration of which, in 1S18, was seen a hundred miles from Boston. He very soon ai)plied liim- self to the study of architecture and carving in wood. Tlie ca])- itals for the Brighton IMeeting-house, and those for Park StR'ct Church steeple, are by his hand. He also carvecl a bu.st of Wasliington for the sevc^nty-four-gun ship of that name, and executed a model of the public buildings in Wasliington for Mr. Bulfinch. The eagle now on the apex of (he pediment of the Old Custom House was carved by Mr. Willard ; it is live 312 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. feet high, and measures the same distance from wing to wing. His great work was the Bunker Hill Monument, of which he was the architect, and he was also the discoverer of the Bunker Hill Quarry at Quincy. The Court House, in Court Square, was designed hy Mr. Willard. The old Masonic Temple, now used hy the United States courts, is huilt upon a part of the Washington Gardens. The corner-stone was laid in 1830, and two years elapsed hefore it was dedicated. The hasement and belt is of hammered granite. Two lofty Gothic towers, with battlements surmounted by pin- nacles, flank the entrance, and are a picturesque feature of the environs of the Great Mall. Bench and Bar now usurp the high places of Masonry, to which a newer and more magnificent temple has been dedicated. In the upper story of the Masonic Temple was the school of A. Bronson Alcott, the philosopher, and father of the popular authoress, Louisa May Alcott. In Mr. Alcott's school Sarah Margaret Fuller, afterwards Countess d'Ossoli, was an assistant teacher before she went to Providence, R. I., to teach. Miss Fuller, " the best talker since De Stael," lived with her uncle, Henry H. Fuller, on the north side of Avon Place (Street), where she held for several seasons her " Conversations " for young ladies. She was afterwards invited to New York, by Horace Greeley, as a contributor to the New York Tribune. The memory of her remarkable talents and literary successes is still fresh, and recalls the painful impression caused by her sad fate from shipwreck on Fire Island, when returning from Europe in 1850 with her husband and child. It is said she could compose Latin verse when only eight years old. Her writings, much as they were admired, were not equal to her conversation, in which her wonderful brilliancy and force of expression came forth with full power, until the best talkers preferred to become listeners in her society. The story of her life has often been told, and constitutes one of the brightest as well as one of the saddest pages of our history. The Washington Gardens .extended to the corner of West Street. They were surrounded by a brick wall, a part of which A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 313 is seen in the foreground of the view of the Hay market in the frontispiece. A concert was announced here as early as 1815, by J. H. Shaffer. In 1819 an amphitheatre was erected witliin the grounds, wliich afterwards took the name of the Washing- ton Theatre. The managers of Federal Street were at first interested in this establishment, until it passed from their con- trol and became a rival. The house was adapted to the uses of a circus as well as for a theatre, equestrian performances having been given in it a number of times. As such it appears to have been the first in Boston. Following the Old Drury and Haymarket, it had an English name, being called VauxhalL A battalion of British troops is said to have been quartered in the grounds at the time of the occu2)ation, when they were known as Greenleaf's Gardens. The site of these gardens was the residence of Stephen Green- leaf, the old sheriff of Suffolk under the stormy administration of Governor Bernard. He was the same whoso exploits at the Manufactory House have been chronicled. The sheritf was a confirmed royalist, but did not join in the hegira of that i>arty from Boston. He died at the great age of ninety-one. After him it became the mansion of James Swan, who long lived in Paris, and was imprisoned in St. Pelagic for many years. The reader will obtain from the frontispiece an excellent idea of what the district embraced between West and Boylston Streets was in 1798. At the lower corner of West Street was the Haymarket. Beyond, at the south corner of Mason Street, was Hutch's Tavern, with Frothingham's carriage factory in tijo rear; farther on is seen the Old Haymarket Theatre, and, at the corner of Boylston Street, the residence of William Foster, where now the Hotel Pelhani stands. In the right foreground is the West Street entrance to the Common ; the trees ivceding along the mall disclose the river beyond, whoso bri'ezes then fanned and invigorated the habitues of the spot. The picture is from a water-color by Kobertson, once the property of John Howard Payne, now in possession of tlie Public Li])r!irv. The Whipping-Post and Pillory were situated near the West Street gate after their removal from State Street. 14 314 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Long before the Revolution, as early as 1722, a free school was established in what is now Mason Street, near the corner of West. It was then on the boundary of the Common, the land now lying between having been sold off from it. The school was called the South Writing, was the fourth in the town, and has, in later times, been known as the Adams School. The Common extended to Mason Street since 1800. A gun-house stood at the corner of West Street at the begin- ning of the lievolution, separated by a yard from the school- house. In this gun-house were kept two brass three-pounders belonging to Captain Adino Paddock's train. These pieces had been recast from two old guns sent by the town to London for that purpose, and had the arms of the province engraved upon them. They arrived in Boston in 1768, and were first used at the celebration of the King's birthday, June 4, when a salute was fired in King Street. Both school and gun -house are con- nected with a celebrated event. Major Paddock had expressed an intention of surrendering these guns to Governor Gage. The mechanics, who composed this company, resolved that it should not be so. The British general had begun to seize the military stores of the province and disarm the inhabitants. Accordingly, the persons engaged in the plot met in the school-room ; and when the attention of the sentinel stationed at the door of the gun-house was taken off by roll-call, they crossed the yard, entered the building, and, removing the guns from their carriages, carried tliem to the school-room, where they were concealed in a box in which fuel was ke^^t. The loss of the guns was soon discovered, and search made, in which the school did not escape. The master jolaced his lame foot upon the box, and it was not disturbed. Several of the boys were privy to the affair, but made no sign. Besides the schoolmaster, Abraham Holbrook, Nathaniel Balch, Samuel Gore, Moses Grant, Jeremiah Gridley, Whiston, and some others executed this conp de main. Boring's account says the guns remained a fortnight in the school-room. At the end of that time they were taken in a A TOUR EOUXD THE COMMON'. 315 wheelbarrow at iiiglit and carried to AMiiston's blacksmith's shop at the South End, and deposited under the coal. From here they were taken to the American lines in a boat. The guns were in actual service during the whole war. After tlie peace the State of ^lassachusetts applied to Congress for their restoration, which was granted by a resolve passed May 19, 1788, in which General Knox, Secretary at War, was directed to place a suitable inscription upon them. The two guns were called the " Hancock " and " Adams," and were in charge of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, until presenter to Russia in 1809, and a commissioner at Ghent in 1815. Again minister to England in 1817, he became subse(]uently Mr. Monror's Secretary of State, and his successor in 1825. In IS.'H lie was returned to Congress, where he continued until his sudden 320 ' LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. decease in the Capitol in 1848. "This is the last of earth; I am content," were the last words he spoke. Mr. Adams was minister to Russia during the invasion of Bonaparte. When questioned as to the burning of Moscow, he stated that both the Emperor and Eostopchin, the governor, denied having ordered it. Had the government assumed the responsibility, they would have been obliged to indemnify the sufferers. In Miss Quincy's Memoir are some interesting personal recol- lections of Mr. Adams while at the court of St. Petersburg. Said he : — " I never saw Alexander on the throne. He was a man who cared little about thrones, and was one of the most complete republicans, in character and manners, I have ever known. He used to walk the streets of St. Petersburg every day, and stop and talk to every one he met. He was extremely popular, and I do not believe he was carried off by treachery. Alexander, during the whole of the war with Bonaparte, exposed himself as much as any of his officers. At the close of that war he was undoubtedly one of the first generals in Europe. Moreau was killed at his side by a cannon-ball from the walls of Dresden." Speaking of Moreau's death, Mr. Adams observed : — " He was fighting against his country, which no man can ever be justified in doing. A man, if he disapproves a government or a war, may remain quiet and neutral ; but nothing should ever induce him to take up arms against his country. I saw Moreau's funeral at St. Petersburg, which was attended with great j^omj)." The victor of Hohenlinden was excluded by decree from the ranks of the French army, July 6, 1804, and under the surveil- lance of a colonel of gendarmes went to Cadiz, where he em- barked for the United States. Moreau was in America eight years, during which he travelled extensively, visiting Boston among other places. The venerable William Minot, of this city, stated, at a recent interview, that he remembers seeing the geneml in a passing carriage while he was in Boston. He went to Niagara Falls, and descended the Ohio and Mississij^pi. A small affluent of the Missouri is /lamed for him. A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 321 He lived for some time at Morrisville, in Pennsylvania, in a house purchased l)y him on the banks of the Delaware, — the most conspicuous in the place. The general was very affable and hospitable. He also resided in Xew York, where he was much consulted by American politicians, though he sedulously abstained from party intrigue himself. After a residence of about eight years in the United States he returned to Europe, to engage in the strife then raging there. The American vessel which carried Moreau — this was in 1813 — was permitted to pass the blockade by Admiral Cockburn, at the request of tlie liussian minister. His death-bed was attended by the King of Prussia, the Emperor of Austria, and Emperor Alexander, who manifested the deepest grief at his loss. Metternich, Schwartzenburg, and the allied generals visited him, and Alexander, who had a great friendship for the dying general, held him a long time in his arms. The following is an extract of a letter to jMadame ^Moreau, written by him, with a steady hand, while sinking under the amputation of his limbs : — " My dear friend, at the battle of Dresden, three days ago, I had both legs carried away by a cannot shot. That scoundrul, Bonaparte, is always lucky." Charles Francis Adams passed his boyhood with his father at St. Petersburg, and while the elder Adams was minister at the court of St. James, the son Aveut to an English school. He studied law in Webster's office, and was admitted to the bar, but never practised. Mr. Adams, after having edited a Boston newspaper, and served in the legislature, was the candidate of the Free Soil party for the Vice-presidency in 1848. But Mr. Adams is best known by his diplomatic services at the same court where his father served so long. His conduct of delicate negotiations during the great civil war was such as to place him at the head of American cUplomats. His services were recently required by our government in the negotiations at Geneva, arising from the Alabama and other claims. ]\Ir. Adams mar- ried a daughter of Peter C. Brooks, a wealthy citizen of Boston. In this corner of the Common, and adjoining the Burying- 14* u LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Grjiind on the east, were situated the hay-scales, after their removal from the corner of West Street, and also a gun-house ; the latter was transferred, in 1826, to a location near the present Providence depot. It contained a laboratory, well furnished with warlike material. There was also a laboratory on Pleasant Strp.et, between the corner of Boylston and Pfafi''s Hotel, during the Revolution, on what is now called Park Square, and another, subseipiently lised by Frothingham, Wheeler, and Jacobs as a carriage factory, and seen in the frontispiece. The first manufacture of duck was begun by an incorporated company in Boston, about 1790. They erected buildings on a large lot in Boylston Street, at the corner of Tremont. In 1792 they were in the full tide of success, employing four lum- dred operatives, and turning out fifty pieces a week of ex- cellent canvas. Here were man- ufactured the Constitution's sails, so that she was an Amer- ican ship throughout, except in her armament. The manufac- ture of cotton began in New England as early as 1643, and calico printing was undertaken in Boston before 1794. During the war of 1812 a number of field-pieces belonging to the government were collected in this corner of the Common, and the city military took turns mounting guard over the park. The New England Guards, which were organized in 1812, per- formed their share of this duty, and several of the members, among whom was Abbott Lawrence, got their one hundred and sixty acres of land from the general government in requital for a certain term of service here, at the Charlestown Navy Yard, and at Noddle's Island. There were sixty-seven names on the muster-roll in 1814, and in 1859, after the lapse of nearly half a century, forty-three of the sixty-seven were still living, of whom a mere handful of au;ed men now survive. OLD LOOM. A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 323 CHAPTEE XL A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON CONTINUED. Common Burying-Ground. — Joshua Bates. — Public Garden. — Ropewalks. — Topography of the Common. — British Troops on. — Description of tlieir Camps. —The Light Horse. —Powder House. — OKI Ehii. — Witclicraft and Quaker Executions. — The Duel in 1728. — Mill-Dam. — Mexican Volunteers. — Beacon Street. — Prescott. — Copley. — Jolin Phillies. — Wendell Phillips. — Robert C. Winthrop. — Hancock Mansion. — Governor Hancock. — General Clinton. — State House. — Public Statues, etc. — The Beacon. — The Monimient. — Lafayette's Residence. — George Ticknor. — Malbone. — Samuel Dexter. — Incidents of Lafayette's Visit in 1824. — Josiah Quincy, Jr. — Historical Resume. — Repeal of the Stamp Act. THE Common Burying-Ground has but little antiquity com- pared with the Chapel, Copp's Hill, or Granary Cemeteries. It was opened after these in 1756, and has, according to its changing relations with others, been called at various times the South and Central Ground. Under Mayor Armstrong, the Boylston Street ^lall was car- ried across the foot of the Common, cutting off some of the tombs on that side of the graveyard. The owners of the vaults resisted the invasion of the sacred dust, but the im- provement was accomplished by which Beacon and Tremont Street ]\falls were connected. Unsupported tradition has given to the Common Ground the credit of being first used for negro burials, l)ut we find no better evidence of this than that some very thick skulls were dug up at a considerable depth from the surfoce. It is known, however, that this was the sepulchre of such of the common sol- diers as died from disease during the British occupation, and of those who died from their wounds received at Bunker Hill. They were buried in a common trench, according to military custom, and many of the remains were exhumed when the ex- cavations were proceeding at the northwest corner of the yard. 324 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The officers who died of their hurts at Bunker Hill were in- terred in the churches and cemeteries, hastily, but with greater decency. Many of these have been forwarded to their far- away homes. We cannot pass the Public Library without an allusion to its great benefactor, Joshua Bates. This eminent Bostonian, who became a member of the great house of the Barings in London, was a poor boy, almost as humble as the least among those who daily benefit by his generosity. He attracted the attention of his patron, William Gray, while driving a load of stones on his father's team. His quick, ready replies interested the merchant, who gave him a place in his counting-house, whence graduated a financier second to none in the Old or New World. In the Public Library is a Revolutionary relic of interest, which acquired an even greater importance in connection with the Sanitary Commission in the war of Rebellion. It is the original capitulation of Burgoyne at Saratoga, with the signa- tures of the king's commander, Riedesel, and the lesser officers, EngHsh and Hessian, in order of rank. " In vain they fought, in vain they fled ; Their chief, luimane and tender, To save the rest, soon thought it best His forces to surrender." Where now the Public Garden is teeming with beauty, nearly the whole extent of the ground was occupied by rope- walks, five in number. As you pass along Charles Street going in the direction of Beacon, these ropewalks stretched about three fourths of the distance, there meeting the water which washed Charles Street. On the other hand, they continued nearly to Eliot Street. Charles Street was divided from the Common about 1804. These ropewalks were the successors of those in Pearl and Atkinson Streets, destroyed by fire in 1794. The town granted the tract in order to prevent the erection of new buildings in a district they endangered, as well as to render substantial aid to the unfortunate rope-makers ; they were again consumed in A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 325 their new location in 1806. The land whereon these rope- walks were situated was marsh, or flats, whicli indeed was the prior condition of nearly all that low ground now known as the parade of the Common. At high tides most of this tract was probably overflowed. On the verge of it was a little elevation known as Fox Hill, long ago levelled to contribute to the filling of the marsh. As long ago as 1750 the town voted to lease these marsh-lands ; but if they were used, the purpose has not transpired. To continue the topography of this region of the Common, from the bottom of Beacon Street to Cambridge Bridge was a high bluff", similar to the headlands of the harbor islands ; the base washed by the river. Excellent springs, covered at high water, trickled along the beach. This eminence, known as West Hill, was occupied by the British as a mortar-battery ; it has been reduced to a convenient grade, and employed in making Charles Street. It seems clear that the shore or beach once left this headland with an inward sweep, southerly to the higher ground at the foot of Boylston Street. After .the era of improvement was begun by the Blount Vernon proprietors, the hill was reduced by them. In this labor they employed the first railway used in Xew England, by an inclined plane, over which box cars conveyed their loads to tlie water at the foot of the hill. About this time a sea wall was built along Charles Street from Beacon to Boylston. To return to the ropewalks. The town, in its generosity, invested the proprietors wdth a title which might have forever prevented the existence of the Public Garden, now properly a part and parcel of the Common. The riglits of the proprie- tors were finally purchased by the city. The question whether the city should seU these lands lying west of Charles Street, was, in 1824, negatived by the citizens, who thus decided to preserve the beautiful view of the river and its shores beyond, now obstructed by the newly erected city of the Back Bay. In this manner has been secured the Public Garden, — ** Where opening roses breathing sweets diffuse, And soft carnations shower tlieir bahny dews : 326 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Where lilies smile in virgin robes of white, The thin undress of superficial light, And varied tulips show so dazzling gay, Blushing in bright diversities of day, Each painted fioweret in the lake below Surveys its beauties, whence its beauties grow. " From the bottom of the Common the troops were embarked in silence for Lexington, at about ten o'clock on the night pre- ceding the memorable 19th of April. On the Common were arrayed the forces engaged at Bunker Hill before they marched to the points of embarkation. Many a tall fellow heard the drums beat the rappel for the last time as he shouldered his firelock, and fell in the ranks on that eventful morning. Of the first troo]3S which the Ministry despatched to Boston, the 29th went into camp on the Common for a short time, un- til they were quartered in various parts of the town. The 14th and the Train marched with the 29th to the Common from Long Wharf, but were assigned to other localities. On the 31st of October, 1768, took place the first military execution ever witnessed in Boston. The doomed man was Eichard Ames, a private of the 1 4th ; his crime, desertion. He was shot on the Common, both regiments being present under arms. Inter- cession was made with General Gage to spare the man's life without avail. These were not the first troops to use the town training-field by many, but their coming marked an epoch in history. The provincial forces of Shirley and Pepperell enlivened the green sward in 1745; and in 1758, on the 13th January, General Amherst and his army, 4,500 strong, disembarked from their ships, and j^itched their tents on tlie Common. This was the force destined to operate against Canada. At this time, and long afterwards, the British ofilcers wore bayonets. A portrait of General Wolfe is extant with a firelock slung at his back and the bayonet by his side. Burgoyne's officers also wore them when they came to Boston in 1777. The Highland Eegiment, commanded by Colonel Eraser, ex- cited the admiration of the town, which had seen nothing like it before. Their colonel was the same who displayed such con- A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 327 spicuous bravery at the battle of Stillwater in 1777, under Burgoyne's command. In the crisis of the second day's ])attle General Morgan called some of his trusty riilenien, and, ixunting out the gallant Briton, said to them : " That gallant ofHcer is General Eraser. I admire and honor him, but it is necessary he should die ; victory for the enemy depends upon liim. Take your stations in that clump of bushes, and do your duty." In a few minutes Eraser fell, mortally wounded. He recpiestetl to be buried in a redoubt he had erected, which was accordingly done, under the fire of the American guns. The object of the burial-party being discovered, the firing ceased, except the oc- casional booming of a minute-gun in honor of the valor of the deceased soldier. Eraser's regiment was with AVolfe at the memorable ascent of the Heights of Abraham in 1759, and, under Murray, was engaged at the battle of Quebec in 1760. On the 2d July, 1774, the train of artillery from the Castle landed, and marched to the Common. On the 4th of October there "were iwo regiments stationed here, and it continued there- after a permanent camp until the evacuation. Two companies were stationed in the mortar redoubt, and also held a small three-gun battery higher up on the slope of the hill. AVlien the British departed, the thirteen-inch mortar from the battery was found lying on the beach, where it liad been overturned, uninjured. Another of the same calibre, found sunk at the end of Long ^^Hiarf, was placed by the Americans in the South Battery. One of these Revolutionary relics was taken to Charlestown Navy Yard ; the other was mounted on the bat- tery at N'ew York, the same year it was captured. Two twelve- pounders from the battery on Beacon Hill were also secured by the Americans. There were a few shot thrown into the Uritish camp during the siege by an American floating battery, but no liarm was done. The positions of the British defences and encani]mients on the Common during the winter of 1775-7(3 were as follows : A small earthwork was thrown up at the nortliwest corner, a little higher up than the present entrance on (/harles Street ; this was designed for infantry, and held by a single company. 328 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The little elevation mentioned by the name of Fox Hill was nearly or quite surrounded by water at times, and was hence called the island ; on this was a small redoubt. At the south- west corner, at a point at high-water mark, — now intersected by Boylston Street extension, — was another breastwork for infantry. South of this was a strong redoubt, which would be bisected by Hollis Street, were it extended to the shore as it then existed ; one front faced Pleasant Street, while the other was along the then beach. This formed the first line, the Pleasant Street redoubt and the battery at the foot of Beacon Street being on the flanks. On the westerly slope of the hill overlooking the parade, and on which the flagstaff is now situated, was a square redoubt, behind which lay encamped a battalion of infantry ; to the east, and on a line with the easternmost point of the hill, were two half-moons for small arms, with a second battalion in its rear. About opposite Carver Street, resting on the southwest corner of the burial-ground, was a bastioned work, directly across Boylston Street. This was the second line. On the hill for- merly known as Flagstaff Hill, but now dedicated to the sol- diers' monument, the artillery was parked, protected by intrench- ments. Immediately behind this hill, stretching from the burial-ground across to Beacon Street Mall, were the camps of three battalions of infantry. Such were the dispositions to prevent a landing by the American forces under Washington. None of the works were formidable except the most southern, which was connected with the lines on the Neck. The Common was an intrenched camp, with a regular garrison of 1,750 men. The remains of the British works were visible until the be- ginning of the century. Persons are still living who have seen the holes made by the soldiers for their kitchens, and the ditches on the hill where the monument is to stand. * The strength of the British position may be inferred from the fact that Du Coudray, an experienced French oflicer of artillery, engaged by our commissioners to command that arm in our service, laughed long and heartily on viewing from Bea- con Hill the works which the Britisli had erected, and which they had so precipitately abandoned. A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 329 Behind the three-gun battery situated on Beacon Hill were a number of ropewalks, bounding north on Myrtle Street, and occupied in Itevolutionary times by Henderson Inches. This was the camp of the British Light Horse, who used the rope- walks as their stables, and the Old South as a riding-schooL Belknap Street is now continued directly through these rope- walks. The spur of Beacon Hill known as Mt. Vernon, and for which that street takes its name, Avas called Mt. Hoardam, and Mt. Whoredom, a difference merely of orthography. AVe shall see that the military positions in and around the Common were presided- over by some distinguished personages. In May, 1 706, an act was passed erecting a Powder House in the town, and one was built on the hill near the Frog Pond. There was another pond on the Common in early times called the Horse Pond, a stagnant pool of water long since filled up. It was situated a little to the southeast of old Flagstafi' Hill, and was connected by a ditch with the river ; across the ditch a little foot-bridge was thrown. A third pond, to the westward, was called Sheehan's, from a man of that name hanged there. The Powder House referred to must not be confounded with the one at West Boston, — a much larger and better-built magazine. The superficial features of the Common, except in the in- stances pointed out, remain unchanged. The Mighty Elm yet rears its hoary front, and puts forth its verdure as of old. It is the only living though dumb witness of the pageants of Shirley, Amherst, Gage, and Howe. The life-current flows feebly through the limbs of this tree of trees, but still it stands, acknowledged monarch of its fellows. The green mists which in spring-time clothe the trees in the malls cloud but lightly the aged crest of the Old Elm. Kingdoms, empires, dynasties, have disappeared, yet the tree stands with its gnarled roots grasping its native earth, waiting in silent majesty the day when it shall be laid to its rest, full of honors and of years. The branches of the Old Elm, if we may believe trji he tho first step towards converting the Back Lay into terra firma. The work was begiin in 1818 by the Boston and Ixuxlniry Mill Corporation, but Mr. Cotting did not live to see its com- pletion, Colonel Loammi Baklwin succeeding him as engineer. In our Introduction we have given a very brief account of this thoroughfare. Laborers were brought from Ireland specially to be employed on it, and it was opened with due ceremony. A cavalcade of citizens crossed from the Lrookline shore, and were received by the inhabitants on the Boston side. Many recollect the entrance into the city of the Massachu- setts Volunteers after the Mexican war. They were almost literally in rags, and it was not until the charitable hands of Boston ladies had supplied needful clothing that the regament was able to march into town. Their appearance indicated little of the " pomp and circumstance," but much of the hard usage and bad rations, of glorious war. "We may now pursue our way up the ascent of Beacon Street and its neighboring mall. The expense of this mall was de- frayed from a fund raised by subscription to erect fortifications during the war of 1812, then remaining in the hands of the town officers. " Here aged trees cathedral walks compose, And mount the hill in venerable rows." The name of Beacon Street was applied very early to that portion north and east of the State House, and to the westerly part before the Revolution. At this time there were not more than three houses between Charles Street and the upper end of the Common, the Joy house, when built, making the fourth. The rest of the hill was covered with small cedars and native shrubbery, with here and there a cow-path, through which tho herds ranged unmolested. The home of Prescott, the eminent historian, was at 55 Beacon Street. A deeper interest attaches to the laboi-s of the gifted author on account of his partial blindness, caused by an injury to his eye while at Harvard. All efforts both at liomo and abroad failed to improve his sight, and his literary work had 334 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. to be performed with the aid of an amanuensis, though he occasionally wrote with a stylus on a writing-frame prepared ex- pressly for him. 'No library can be called complete that does not contain " Ferdinand and Isabella," '' The Conquest of Mexico," "Peru," and "Charles the Fifth." He died before completing his Philip II., which he had intended to make his greatest work. Mr. Prescott was the grandson of the old soldier of Louisburg and Bunker Hill, and by a coincidence married a granddaughter of that Captain Linzee who com- manded the Falcon at the battle just named. He was a D. C. L. of Old Oxford, and member of many of the learned societies of Europe and America. The mansion of the late David Sears, now a club- house, is rendered interesting as the site of the home of John S. Copley, the distinguished American painter. Copley owned the greatest estate in Boston, embracing eleven acres, in which were included the reserved six acres of Blackstone. Walnut Street was the eastern boundary, Pinckney Street its northern, and the bay its westerly limit. On the northwest corner of the tract stood the old Powder House to Avhich we have referred. It was built in 1774, remote from the position of the former magazine near the Great Tree, where it had been exposed to accidents on days of public rejoicing. The walls were of Braintree granite, seven feet thick, with bomb-proof arch. It was surrounded by pali- sades, and was estimated to contain, when full, a thousand bar- rels of powder. Near it was a watch-house. Copley was in a certain sense a pupil of Smibert, the works of that artist having been his first studies. He married a daughter of Richard Clarke, a rich merchant, and one of the obnoxious tea-consignees. The painter acted for the consign- ees in one of the conferences with the town committee. The Clarkes had a store in King Street, and lived in the Cooke mansion, previously described, in School Street. The house was visited by a mob, and the Clarkes with the other con- signees retired for safety to the Castle. In the old two-story house which formerly stood here Cop- ley painted some of his beet pictures, probably those of Han- A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 33^ cock and Adams among the numl)er. Here also Cliarles W. Peale, father of liembrandt Peale, studied with Copley in 1768. In 1774, leaving his family in Boston, Co])ley went to England, where he at once gained an advanced rank among the THE SEARS ESTATE. British painters. His Death of Lord Chatliam estahlisliod his fame, and his large picture of the Siege and Belief of Oil)raltar was hung in Guildhall, London. He died suddenly in 1813. Dunlap relates that Copley's death was thought to have been hastened by the following circumstance : — " Some American speculator who was accpiainted with the PU]>er1) situation of Copley's house in Boston, overlooking the beiuitiful green and parade called the Common, made an offer to the painter for the purchase, which, in comparison to the value of property in former davs m Boston, seemed enormous. Copley eagerly closed 336 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. with him, and sold the pro^Derty for a song compared with its real value. Shortly after, he, learning it was worth twenty times the money he had sold it for, tried to undo the bargain, and sent his lawyer son to Boston for the purpose, but it was too late." The following is the history of this transaction. In 1798 Colonel William Hull, being in London, bought of Copley all his tract of land west of the Beacon Hill. About the same time Gardiner Greene, Copley's son-in-law and agent, sold the same property to Harrison Gray Otis and Jonathan Mason. The other claimants at length compromised with Colonel Hull, and the conveyance was made by the younger Copley in 1776, when he came to the United States. The society of the future Chancellor of Great Britain was much courted during his visit to Boston and New York. The elder Copley never returned to his native city. Trumbull describes Copley as an elegant-looking man, dressed in fine maroon cloth coat with gilt buttons. Besides being a painter, Copley was an engraver, having executed a portrait of Eev. William Welsteed of Boston. This knowledge served him in good stead in London. Copley, with West, was one of Trumbull's sureties when the latter was tlirown into j^rison in London. Lord Lyndhurst said his Either was his own master, and entirely devoted to his art to the last year of his life, and that he never saw a decent picture, except his own, until he was thirty. Sully's opinion of Copley was that he was equal " in all respects but one to West ; he had not so great despatch, but then he was more correct, and did not so often repeat him- self." The adverse criticism upon Copley's pictures was that they were crude in coloring, and wanted ease and naturalness. His historical paintings Avere a collection of portraits without action, but his draperies were considered exquisite. Dr. Dibdin con- sidered his portraits admirable, but too stiff and stately. A catalogue of the existing works of this eminent native artist is now being prepared by Mr. Augustus T. Perkins of Boston. General Knox lived in the Copley House, after the war, for A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 337 a short time. The old mansion fronted Beacon Street, and had fine grounds and a stable attached. David Sears inherited a large fortune from his father, and, go where you will in Boston, you will hnd monuments of his wealth and enterprise. He commanded the Cadets previous to the war of 1812, as well as since that time. His mansion was long the admiration of the town. Some beautiful panels in the front were executed by Willard. Harrison Gray Otis erected a handsome residence next west of the Sears estate ; Judge Cushing's adjoined it on the east, and was the second of the three houses mentioned as consti- tuting Beacon Street. The house standing at the corner of Walnut Street was the first built of brick on Beacon Street. It was erected in 1804 by Hon. John Phillips, first Mayor of Boston, and father of Wendell Phillips, the celebrated antislavery orator of Boston. His maiden speech on this question was made in Faneuil Hall in 1837, twenty-four years before the antagonism between the North and South culminated in civil war. Unlike most re- formers, he has lived to see the triumph of the principles to wliich he devoted the best years of his life. Mr. Phillips pos- sesses the natural gift of eloquence, and stands hardly rivalled as a speaker by any contemporary. This mansion, now considerably altered in its exterior ap- pearance, was next the residence of Thomas L. Winthrop, lieutenant-governor of Massachusetts from 1826-32, who died in 1841. He M^as father of the Hon. Robert C. Wintlu-op, who has been prominently connected with most of the societies for the advancement of science, art, and literature, and whose ser- vices in many fields of usefulness are fully acknowledged by his fellow-citizens. Mr. Winthrop's mother was a daughter of Sir John Temple, and he is, therefore, by this marriage, a great-grandson of Governor Bowdoin. The statue to Franklin, in School Street, is the product of his suggestion ; and, at its inauguration, he delivered an address on the life and character of the great Bostonian. 15 V 338 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. On tlie opposite corner of Walnut Street was the residence of B. P. Homer, a highly respected merchant. In the rear of Mr. Homer's, on Walnut Street, was the house in which Dr. George Parkman lived at the time of his murder by Web- ster in 1849. Joy Street recalls the name and estate of Dr. John Joy, ex- tending between this thoroughfare and Walnut Street, and Beacon and Mt. Vernon Streets. Dr. Joy was an apothecary in Washington Street, at the corner of Spring Lane. It is related that liis wife was much averse to a removal so far out of town as Beacon Street then was, and exacted a jDromise from the Doctor to return into the town at no distant day. In that day a residence in Williams Court was considered far more eligible. The doctor built a wooden house on the hill back from Beacon Street, which was ultimately removed to South Boston Point. Next to the corner of Joy Street lived Samuel T, Armstrong, another of Boston's chief magistrates, of whose improvement of the Coinmon we have recited several instances. He was the son of the Eevolutionary soldier, John Armstrong. Mr. Arm- strong was lieutenant-governor of Massachusetts in 1836. He had in former years been a bookseller in State Street, at the corner of Flagg Alley, — the firm being Belcher and Armstrong, — and then at Xo. 50 in Old Cornhill, the site of Paul Revere's shop. This vicinity took the name of Booksellers' Row, from the number of that trade there congregated. Before you come to the grounds of the State House, two freestone residences attract your notice. These showy edifices have displaced one of the noblest private mansions of the Colo- nial period, built by Thomas Hancock in 1737, and given to his nephew, the governor, by his aunt, Lydia Hancock. The house long remained a unique feature of the surroundings of the Common, until it became too antiquated for modern ideas, and too valuable. The front of the estate embraced from Mt. Vernon Street, given to the town by the governor, to Joy Street, formerly Clapboard, and since Belknap Street. All of the State House and part of the Reservoir ground, including Han- A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. ;30 HANCOCK MANSIUN. cock Avenvie, Mt, Vernon Place, and a part of Hancock Street, in which was situated his nursery, belonged to the Hancocks. The site of the State House was Hancock's pasture ; and gardens and or- chards surrounded this truly princely mansion. The building was of stone, built in the sub- stantial manner favored by the wealthier Bos- tonians. The walls were massive. A bal- cony projected over the entrance - door, upon which opened a large window of the second story. The cor- ners and window-openings were ornamented with Braintree stone, and the tiled roof was surmounted by a balustrade. Dor- mer windows jutted out from the roof, from which might be obtained a view as beautiful as extensive. A low stone wall protected the grounds from the street, on which was placed a light wooden fence, \^ith gate-posts of the same material. A paved walk and a dozen stone steps conducted to the mansion, situated on rising ground at a little distance back from the street. Before the door was a wide stone slab, worn by the feet of the distinguished inhabitant and his illustrious guests. A wooden hall, designed for festive occasions, sixty feet in length, was joined to the northern wing ; it was afterwards re- moved to Allen Street. "As you entered the governor's mansion, to the right was the drawing or reception room, with furniture of bird's-cyi' niapk^ cov- ered with rich damask. Out of this o])(MK'(1 \hv diiiing-hall referred to, in which Hancock gave the famous breakfast to A(hniral D'Estaing and his officers. Opposite this was a sinalh-r apart incnt, llu dining-hall of the family ; next adjoining were the offices, with coach-house and barn behind. usual hina-rooni and 340 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. " At the left of tlie entrance was a second salcjon, or family draw- ing-room, the walls covered with crimson paper. The upper and lower halls were hung with pictures of game, hunting-scenes, and other subjects. Passing through this hall, another flight of steps led through the garden to a small summer-house close to Mt. Vernon Street. The grounds were laid out in ornamental flower-beds bor- dered with box ; box-trees of large size, with a great variety of fruit, among which were several immense mulberry-trees, dotted the garden." Such is the description given by Miss Eliza G. Gardner, many years an inmate of the Hancock House. Tliis was the house pillaged by the soldiers about the time of the battle of Lexington, who also broke down and mutilated the fences, until, on complaint of the selectmen, General Gage sent Percy to occupy it. It is also stated that in the previous month of March British officers had set an example to the men by hacking the fences with their swords, breaking windows, etc. A few days afterwards Hancock was again intruded upon by his red-coated neighbors, who refused to retire from his premises at his request, and mockingly told him his possessions would soon be theirs. At this time Gage had an order from the king for Hancock's apprehension, but he feared to meet the issue ; a second order directed him to hang the patriot. The wrath against Hancock escaped in a variety of ways more harmless. One of the effa- sions indited to the patriot reads thus : — '* As for their king, John Hancock, And Adams, if they 're taken, Their heads for signs shall hang up high Upon that hill called Beacon." The Hancock House became the quarters of General Clinton while he remained in Boston ; he took command at Charles- town, September, 1775. Both house and stables were in part occupied by the wounded from Bunker Hill. The house, how- ever, received no important injury during the occupation, the furniture showing but little signs of ill-usage, and the pictures remaining untouched. In this house Hancock had entertained D'Estaing in 1778, A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 341 Lafayette in 1781, Washington in 1789, Brissot, chief of the Girondists, and, in later times, Lords Stanley and Worthy, and Labouchiere and Bougainville. D'Estaing rested under a cloud for his desertion of our forces in Rhode Island, but was, nevertheless, hospitably entertained by Hancock. About forty of the French officers dined every day at the governor's table, for he was a generous host. On one occasion an unusual number assembled to partake of the gov- ernor's viands, when, in the language of Madam Hancock, " the Common was bedizened with lace." The cooks were driven to despair, and the exigency was only met by milking the cows on the Common. We do not learn whether this was acceptable to the owners of the cows. The Count requited the governor's entertainments by a grand dinner on board liis ship. The governor's lady, seated near her host, was requested to puU a cord, which was the signal for a discharge of all the guns of the squadron. The good dame confessed herself surprised at this coup de theatre. Brissot was astonished to find the governor in friendly con- verse with "a hatter" (Nathaniel Balcli). Balch was a great favorite of the governor's. He was a " fellow of infinite jest," majestic in appearance, benevolent, and of sterling worth. His witticisms never failed "to set the table in a roar." Loring relates that when Hancock had occasion to go into the district of Maine on an official visit, he was attended by Hon. Azor Orne of his council, and his old friend Balch. Their arrival at Portsmouth, N. H., was thus humorously announced : — " On Thursday last, arrived in this town, Nathaniel Balch, Esq., accompanied by His Excellency John Hancock, and the Hon. Azor Orne." When Hancock was dying he called his old friend Baldi to his bedside, and dictated to him the minutes of his will, in which he expressly gave his mansion-house to the Common- wealth. Death intervened before this intention could l)e carried out. A strong effort was made to save this old New England mon- ument, but without avail. It was proposed by Governor Banks, 342 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. in 1859, that the Commonwealth should purchase it, and the heirs offered it at a low valuation. A joint committee of the Legislature reported favorably upon the measure, but it met with strong opposition from the rural districts, and was defeated. Suggestions were offered to make it the residence of the gov- ernors, or a museum for the collection of Eevolutionary relics. The house was in excellent preservation, the interior wood-work being sound as when the halls echoed to the tread of the old governor. The chamber of Lafayette remained as when he slept in it ; the apartment in which Hancock died was intact ; the audience-hall was the same in which Washington, D'Estaing, Brissot, the Percy, and many more had stood ; and, finally, the entrance-hall, in which for eight days the dead patriot lay in state, opened upon the broad staircase as in the time of old Thomas and Lydia Hancock. State action failing, some efforts were made by the city, in 1863, to secure the relics of the building itself. The heirs offered the mansion, with the pictures and some other objects of historical interest, as a free gift, with the design of preserv- ing it as a memento of Colonial and Eevolutionary history. It was proposed to take it down and erect it anew on some other site. Eew will regret that such an historical anachronism was not committed. The building was pulled down, and with it disappeared the only monument to the memory of John Han- cock. Governor Hancock entered the Latin School in 1745. He went to England when quite young, where he witnessed the coronation of the monarch who afterwards set a price upon his head. President of the Provincial Congress in 1774, of the Continental Congress in 1776, he first affixed his bold auto- graph to the Declaration of Independence, and it thus circu- lated upon the floor of Congress. We find him acting as moderator at a town-meeting in 1778, the same year he was appointed major-general of the Massachusetts militia. We have seen him presiding over and directing the action of the conven- tion which ratified the Federal Constitution, and at the peace, the choice of the people of his native State as their chief A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 343 magistrate. Hancock died sincerely regretted. If he had some conspicuous faults, they were more than counterbalanced by his many noble qualities. Hancock was tall, nearly six feet, and thin. In later years he stooped a little, and was a martyr to the gout. In his attire he Avas a type of the fine gentleman of his day, — a scarlet coat^ richly embroidered, with rufdes of the finest Hnen, being his ordinary dress. We give herewith a fac-simile of the much-admired auto- graph of Governor Hancock appended to a ticket of the lottery authorized by law for the rebuilding of Faneuil Hall after the fire of 1761. The engraving is of the exact size of the originaL Bos TOM June 1765. ♦ . Faneuil-UdW LOTTERY, No. Five. * ?4^ /-nr HE Poffeffor of this Ticket (No 3^^^ ) ^ j> JL " intitled to aE^ Prize drawn againd faid -^ Number, io a Lottery granted by an Aft of ^ the General Court of the Pror'mce of Khz/yiaffachufettt- Bay, for Rebaildiog FAMEua-HALt ; fubjcA to bo Dcdflilion. ^ ^S^r^iia^^ FANEUIL HALL LOTTERY TICKET. We have reached the highest point of the city, and can leisurely contemplate the immense pile of the State House, with its glistening dome, which fitly crowns the view of Bos- ton as you approach by land or water. It is another monument to the genius of Charles Bulfinch, by whom it was designed. Were we to ascend to the cupola we shoukl see a panorama spread before us which even the famed Neapolitan S(\iport can hardly surpass. But of Old Boston, as it stood when tlie first Legislature assembled in the Capitol, we should find but little remaining. 344 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Dr. Holmes has said in his " Autocrat," — " Boston State House is the hub of the solar system. You could n't pry that out of a Boston man if you had the tire of all creation straightened for a crowbar." This expression thus applied only to the State House, but since modified into the " Hub of the Universe," is now gener- ally used in connection with Boston itself, until the Bostonian abroad has become familiar and even content with hearing his native or adopted city styled the " Hub " from Maine to California. The State House tract was passed by the town to the Com- monwealth in 1795; the nominal consideration was five shil- lings. Samuel Adams laid the corner-stone July 4 of the same year, dedicating it forever to liberty and the rights of man. In 1798 it was completed, and occupied by the legisla- ture. Increase Sumner being then governor. The building re- ceived enlargement in 1855, which cost considerably more than the original edifice. The adornment of our public grounds with statues of dis- tinguished men is becoming a feature of Boston. Washington, Franklin, Webster, Mann, Everett, Hamilton, and the dis- coverer of America have effigies in bronze or marble in their honor. But where are the statues to Hancock, Otis, the Adamses, Quincy, and the rest 1 A copy in plaster of Houdon's Washington, at Richmond, Ya., is in the vestibule of the Athena3um, as is also a plaster model of the statue of Bowditch by Ball Hughes. The figure of the Saviour on the apex of the pediment of the Church of the Immaculate Conception is a copy from Thorwaldsen. The Aristides and Columbus in Louisburg Square are specimens of Italian art, and were imported by Mr. lasigi. The statue of Hamilton in granite in Commonwealth Avenue is by Dr. Rimmer, and is believed to have been the first in the country cut from that material. There are also three typical figures in granite on the front of Horticultural Hall, representing Flora, Ceres, and Pomona. These are by Milmore. The bronze statue of Webster in the State House grounds is A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 345 by Powers. It was the second executed by the artist, the first being lost at sea while en route from Legliorn. The work hardly fulfilled the expectations of Mr. Webster's admirers, or the hopes founded on the high reputation of the sculptor. It was first placed in the vestibule of the Athenteum, until removed to its present position by consent of the Legislature. The statue of Horace Mann was cast in Munich, and is the work of Miss Stebbins. The fund was raised by the contri- butions of school-children and teachers throughout the State. The State paid for the pedestal. In the vestibule are the statues of Governor Andrew and of Washington. The latter was placed in the State House in 1827, and is by Sir F. Chantrey. The idea originated with gentlemen of Boston who had been associated with AVashing- ton in public life. They organized under the name of the Washington Monument Association, and first intended to erect an equestrian statue, — a purpose which want of sufficient funds obliged them to abandon. The j^ose of the figure is majestic and at the same time without stiffness ; the military cloak thrown across the shoulders gives an ease and grace to the whole design. Chantrey began as a carver climbing to emi- nence in art from the lowest round of the ladder. The torn and battle-stained colors of the IMassachusetts regiments are here gathered in the keeping of the Common- wealth. In life, Governor Andrew presented most of these flags ; his statue is tlieir appropriate guardian. In the lower lialls are also placed the tablets from the monu- ment formerly on the summit of Beacon HiU. They are four feet four inches long, and three feet three inches wide. The gilt eagle which perched upon the top of the column lias found a place over the Speaker's chair, in the Hall of Iie])resentatives. A bust of Samuel Adams is affixed to a niclie in tlie Avail ; and the alcove in which stands the Chantrey statue is flanked by two brass cannon consecrated to the valor of Isaac Pavis and John Buttrick, two heroes of the battle of Lexington. On the 26th of August, 1824, Laftiyette received the citizens of Boston in the lower hall; and on the next day a second 15* 346 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. reception was given by the distinguished Frenchman. Il^o greater crowds ever thronged to do homage to any visitor in the halls of the Capitol. On this occasion the national stand- ard was displayed for the first time from the cupola. When the General was again in Boston in 1825, to assist at the laying of the corner-stone of Bunker Hill Monument, the Legislature resolved to invite him to meet it in the Hall of Eepresentatives, and requested ex-Governor Lincoln to address him on the occasion. The General was received by both houses in joint convention on the 16th of June, Governor Lincoln in the Speaker's chair. Among the distinguished guests was Mr. Barbour, United States Secretary of War. In the Senate Cliamber are portraits of the old Colonial governors Endicott, Winthrop, Leverett, Bradstreet, and Bur- net. A fine portrait of Governor Sumner, presented by General W. H. Sumner, hangs above the President's chair. There are also portraits of Francis Higginson, first minister of Salem, and of Eobert Rantoul. On the front of the gallery are some interesting relics of the battle of Bennington, presented by General John Stark. They are a musket, drum, a heavy trooper's sword, and grenadier's cap with the curious conical brass plate, on which, as well as the brass plate of the drum, is embossed the emblematic horse of the Duchy of Westphalia. Underneath is the letter of acceptance written by order of the General Assembly, and signed by Jeremiah Powell, Presi- dent of the Council. Besides these are two old firelocks, bequeathed to the State by Rev. Theodore Parker. One of them has the maker's name on the lock-plate, " Grice, 1762," and an inscription on the butt as follows : — " The First Fire Arm, • Captured in the War for Indej)endence. " The other is more antiquated in appearance. It has the donor's name on the lock-plate, and an inscription on the breech which reads, — A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 347 *' This Firearm was used by Capt John Parker in the Battle of Lexington April 19th 1775." In connection with the State House we present an en- graving of the desk, long used in the Old State House by- successive speakers of the House of Eepresentatives. Ou the removal of the Legislature from their time-honored place of meet- ing, this desk was deemed too an- tiquated for further service. It is now one of the interesting me- morials of the colony in the keep- ing of the Historical Society. The chair is a relic of Plymouth Col- ony, having belonged to Governor Edward Winslow, and is also de- posited with the same society. Let us contrast for a moment the spacious halls of legislation and conveniences of the Xew State House with the confined limits of the Old, and let John Adams describe the famous Council Chamber of the latter as he saw it in 1768. "The same glorious portraits of King Charles IL and King James II., to which might be added, and should be added, little miserable likenesses of Governor Winthrop, Governor Bradstreet, Governor Endicott, and Governor Belcher, hung up in obscure corners of the room. Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson, Connnaniler- in-Chief in the alDsence of the Governor, nnist be placed at the head of the council talkie. Lieutenant-Colonel Dalrvniple, Connnander- in-Chief of his Majesty's military forces, taking rank of all his Majesty's counsellors, must be seated by the side of the Lieutenant- Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the province. Eight-and- twenty cotmsellors must be painted, all seated at the council-board. Let me see, what costume ? What was the fiishion of that day in the month of March 1 Large white wigs, English scarlet clotb cloaks, some of them with gold-laced hats, not on their heads, in- deed, m so august a presence, but on a table before them. Before speaker's desk, and winslow's chair. 348 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. these illustrious personages appeared Samuel Adams, a member of the House of Representatives, and their clerk, now at the head of the great assembly at the Old South Church. Thucydides, Livy, or Sallust would make a speech for him, or perhaps the Italian Botta, if he had known anything of this transaction, one of the most important of the Revolution ; but I am wholly incapable of it ; and if I had vanity enough to think myself capable of it, should not dare to attempt it." The portraits referred to by the venerable writer were full lengths, attributed to Vandyke, but evidently erroneously, as these monarchs were minors when Vandyke died. Governor Pownall, in whose time they were sent over, placed them in some obscure corner, wbere they remained until Governor Bernard discovered and mounted them in elegant frames, and hung them in the Council Chamber. In the State Library is a fine original portrait of General Gage, presented to the State by General W. H. Sumner, be- tween whom and the British general's wife it will be remem- bered a relationship existed. The last of the royal governors is separated from fellowship with his illustrious predecessors. Suspended from the ceiling of the Representatives' Chamber is the ancient symbol of Massachusetts, the codfish, which has been a greater source of wealth than the mines of California. The same fish, which the reader may see upon one of the colony stamps we have represented in a previous chapter, hung in the old hall in State Street, but was taken down, and was not restored until after the peace, when, on the motion of John Rowe, it was again disp ayed before the assembled wisdom of the Commonwealth. John Davis, the intrepid navigator of Queen Elizabeth's reign, was on our coast in 1585, in search of a northwest pas- sage, and records his experience of the great schools of codfish he encountered. Davis discovered the well-known straits to which his name has ever since been applied. He says : — " Wee beeing vnprouided of fishing furniture, with a long spike nayle made a hoke, and fastening the same to one of our sounding lynes Before the bayte was changed wee tooke more than fortie great cods, the fishe swimming so abomidantly thicke about our A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 349 7^ barke as is incredible to be reported of, which, -with a small portion of salte that wee had, wee preserued some thirtie couple, or there aboutes, and soe returned for England." The summit of Beacon Hill, on which stood the ancient Pharos of Boston, is intersected by Temple Street, named for Sir John Temple, who married a daughter of Governor Bowdoin. A portion of the elevation comes witliin the Reservoir site, and the houses south of it. The tract owned by the town was only six rods square, with a way of thirty feet leading to it. This "was sold to John Hancock and Samuel Spear in 1811, when the action of the abutters in digging down the hill ren- dered it untenable. On the top of this grassy mound was erected the Beacon, shown in all the early plans of the town. It was a tall mast standing on cross tim- bers placed upon a stone foundation, and supported by braces. Treenails were driven through the mast by wliicli it was ascended ; and near the top projected a crane of iron sixty-five feet from the base, upon which was suspended an iron skele- ton frame, designed to receive a barrel of tar, or other combustibles. This recep- tacle was placed at an altitude of more than two hundred feet from the sea level, and could be seen, when fired, for a great distance inland. Its object was to alarm the country in case of invasion. This beacon was erected about 1634-35, the town having ordered it set up on Gentry Hill in this year, with a Avatch of one person, to give the signal on the approach of danger. It was newly erected in 1768, having fallen from some cause un- known. In November, 1789, the beacon was blown down. Following the primitive signal spar, a monument of brick, sixty feet in height and four in diameter, was erected, in 1 790, ^5^_=^: 150 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. to the memory of those who fell at Bunker Hill. Charles Bulhnch was the designer. It was a plain Doric shaft, raised on a pedestal of stone and brick, eight feet high. The outside was encrusted with cement ; and on the top was a large gilded eagle of wood, supporting the American Arms. After the fall of the old beacon, Governor Hancock of- fered to erect another at his own cost, but the movement for an obelisk being already on foot, the projDosal was with- drawn, and the selectmen proceeded to lay out the hill for the monument. The monument was taken down and the hill levelled in 1811. It stood very near the southeast corner of the Reser- voir, Temple Street passing directly over its position. The earth which formed the cone was deposited in the Millpond, making a future foundation for the Lowell and Eastern Railroad stations. The tablets of slate bore in- scriptions written by the architect, MONUMENT. Charles Bulfinch, as follows : — ON THE SOUTH SIDE. To Commemorate the train of events which led to the American Revolution and finally secured Liberty and Independence to the United States, this column is erected by the voluntary contributions of the citizens of Boston M.D.CCXC. ON THE EAST SIDE. Americans Wliile from tliis eminence Scenes of luxuriant fertility of flourishing commerce and the abodes of social happiness meet your view, Forjjet not those Avho by their exertions Have secured to you these blessiuLrs. A TOUR ROUND THE CO^rMOX. 351 ON THE WEST SIDE. Stamp Act passed 1765. Repealed 1766. Board of Customs established, 1767 British troops fired on the inhabitants of Boston March 5, 1770 Tea Act passed 1773. Tea destroyed in Boston, December 16. Port of Boston shut and guarded June 1, 177.4. General Congress at Philadelphia Sept. 5 Battle at Lexington, April 19, 1775. Battle at Bunker Hill, June 17. Washington took command of the army July 2. Boston evacuated, March 17, 1776. Independence declared by Congress, Hancock President, July 4. ON THE NORTH SIDE. Capture of the Hessians at Trenton, Dec. 26, 1776 Capture of the Hessians at Bennington, Aug. 16, 1777 Capture of the British army at Saratoga, Oct. 17. Alliance with France Feb. 6, 1778. Confederation of the United States formed, Bowdoin President of Convention, 1780. Capture of the British army at York, Oct. 19, 1781 Preliminaries of Peace Nov. 30, 1782 Definitive Treaty of Peace Sept. 10, 1783 Federal Constitution formed, Sept. 17, 1787 And Ratified by the United States, 1787 to 1790. New Congress assembled at New York, April 6, 1790. Washington inaugurated President, Ai)ril 30. Public Debt funded, August 4, 1790. The base of the monument was enclosed by a railing, with benches for the use of pilgrims to the spot. A view, e(|ualle(l only by that now to be obtained from the lantern of the State House, well repaid a breathless scramble up the steep acclivity. On the Derne Street side a flight of wooden steps conducted part way up the eminence, but, after that, the explorer had to avail himself of the foot-holes worn by other visitors, until he reached a space fifty feet square on the sumuiit. On all sides, except the north, the contour of the ground was perfect ; there it had been encroached upon, in 17G4, to a degree endangering the elevation, by one Thomas Ilodscm. The town, by a com- mittee, remonstrated with Hodson, but to no purpose, although Thomas Hancock and James Otis, Esqrs., were of the delegation. 352 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The contumacious Hodson persisted in digging gravel on his lot, and the committee were obliged to content themselves with a recommendation to employ the intervention of the General Court. No account appears that the original beacon was ever used, but when the troops were momentarily expected in 1768, the Bostonians prepared it for firing, to give the intelligence to the country. Governor Bernard waxed very wroth at this presump- tion, and sent Sheriff Greenleaf to remove the tar-barrel which the Sons of Liberty had placed in the skillet. " Matters now," wrote the governor, '' exceeded all former exceedings." In 1865 the Legislature authorized the rebuilding of Beacon Hill Monument by the Bunker Hill Monument Association, they to receive the tablets now in the custody of the Common- wealth. To Mr. R. C. Winthrop is said to belong the credit of the suggestion, as yet not carried out. Mt. Vernon Street was formerly called Sumner Street as far as Belknap ; beyond this it was Olive Street. The whole was then called Sumner, and, in -1833, by its present name. Han- cock was George Street ; Bowdoin, like Hancock, named for the governor, was first Middlecott Street. As early as 1722 only a narrow pathway prolonged Beacon Street across the Hancock pasture, around the base of Beacon Hill. To this the name of Davie's Lane was given. Beacon Street then terminated at the Almshouse. Besides the ropewalks mentioned west of Hancock Street, there was one east of it, which became the property of the State by purchase. This rope walk-site now forms the westerly side of the Reservoir. A long ropewalk, coinciding nearly with the line of Belknap Street, is upon the earliest map ; ropemak- ing was an important industry of Old Boston, especially of the westerly portion of it. Succeeding to the old gambrel-roofed Almshouse came the stately edifice at the corner of Park and Beacon Streets, chiefly remarkable as having been the house in which Lafayette so- journed during his visit to Boston in 1824. It was erected by Thomas Amory, before 1800, for his residence, its site commanding a beautiful view of the Common, but was later divided into four A TOUR ROUND THE COMMON. 353 Hon. Sam- dwellings. In 1 art of this mansion resided Christopher Gore, during the year he was governor of Massachusetts. Fisher Ames, who died July 4, 1808, was buried from this house. The funeral services took place at King's Chapel, uel Dexter pro- nounced his eu- _. _ ^- —-=[ - logy. It was later tenanted by George Tick- nor, the distin- guished scholar, oue of the found- ers of the Public Library, and au- thor of the His- tory of Spanish Literature. Before the di- vision of the building, it was kept as a fashionable boarding-house by Mrs. Carter, until she removed to the present Howard Street, These boarding-houses were, before the erection of the Tremont House, the resort of strangers visiting Boston. Edward G. Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, had his studio there. He accompanied Allston to Europe, and was urged by West to remain, but preferred returning to the United States. Malbone excelled in miniature-painting. Samuel Dexter was a resident in that part of the house front- ing on Beacon Street. A Bostonian and a Harvard man, Mr. Dexter was one of the greatest lawyers Massachusetts ever had. Judge Story said of him that he never descended to finesse or cunning before a jury ; Webster, that his statements were argu- ments. He served in both houses of Congress ; in tlie upper branch during the exciting times of the troul)k's witli the French Bepublic. He was successively Secretary of War and of the Treasury, under Mr. Adams, and for a time acting Secretary of State. In politics Mr. Dexter was a stanch Federalist, but sup- LAFA-iLlFL-, I1I.-,[DEXCE. 354 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. ported tlie war of 1812. He was first president of the first temperance society funned in Massachusetts. The accomplished scholar, Lucius M. Sargent, studied law with Mr. Dexter. After Mr. Dexter, the building was used — not too success- fully — as a club-house. It was rented by Mr. Quincy, when mayor of Boston, for the use of Lafayette, during the week he was the guest of the city. Lafayette, in order to redeem his pledge to be in Boston at a stated time, had to ride forty miles at night, arriving at Dedham at midnight. His meeting with Governor Eustis, with whom he had been acquainted in the old Eevolutionary army, was ex- tremely interesting, the governor exclaiming, " I am the hap- piest man that ever lived." The General was escorted from the residence of Governor Eustis, in Roxbury, into town, by a cavalcade which conducted him to the city limits, where he was received by the city au- thorities. He proceeded, under a military escort, to the head of the maU on Tremont Street, where the scholars of the public schools were drawn up to receive him. All accounts agree that on no occasion were there ever so many people in Boston before. After paying his respects to the governor and Council in the Senate Chamber, the General was conveyed to his lodgings. A handsome arch was thrown over "Washington Street, at the site of the old fortifications, with this inscription written on the spur of the moment the day previous by the poet Sj^rague : — ■" Welcome, Lafayette ! The fathers in glory shall sleep, That gathered with thee to the fight, But the sons will eternally keep The tablet of gratitude bright. We bow not the neck, and we bend not the knee ; But our hearts, Lafayette, we surrender to thee." Another arch was erected on the site of the Old Liberty Stump, opposite Boylston Market. Lafayette rode, uncovered, in the barouche with Mr. Quincy, bowing incessantly to the multitudes that pressed around him. A scene of great interest occurred when the General appeared on the balcony of the man- sion he was to occupy. On either side of liim were Governor A TOUK ROUND THE COMMON. 355 Eustis and ex-Governor Brooks, clad in their old Continental uniforms. These two, brothers in arms, had buried an old animosity to greet the noble Frenchman, — a circumstance known to and ajDplauded by many. The Boston Regiment, which had escorted the General, passed in review ; and, amid the cheers of thousands of spectators, the General and his dis- tinguished companions withdrew. A dinner was given to Lafayette at the Exchange Coffee House on the 27th, at which, after the company had partakcm of an elegant repast provided by Colonel Hamilton, the General gave the following toast : — • " The city of Boston, the cradle of Liberty ; may Faneiiil Hall ever stand a monument to teach the world that resistance to ojjpres- sion is a duty, and will, under true republican mstitutions, l)ec(jme a blessing." The General made a visit to the battle-ground of Bunker Hill, also to the IS^avy Yard, where he was welcomed by Com- modore Bainbridge. He passed an evening at ^Mrs. Llover,' returned Lafayette. * Poor Captain Smith ! But we beat the French I ive beat the French ! ' " Next below the residence of ]\Ir. Ticknor on Park Street was that of Hon. Abbott Lawrence. Farther down is that of Josiah Quincy, Jr., the second mayor of that name. His ad- ministration will be remembered for the introduction of the Cochituate water, — a measure strenuously urged by his father twenty years before its accomplishment. The event was cele- brated with military and civic displays, and an immense nndti- tude thronged the Common to see the water let on fur the lirst time. At the corner of Beacon and Mt. Yernon Streets was the residence of William Molineux, one of the early patriots and a prominent merchant. He built a splendid mansion for liis day, but died in 1774. ^Ir. Molineux was one of the famous com- mittee that demanded of Governor Hutchinson the immediate removal of the troops after the ]\Iassacre. His colleagues were Adams (Samuel), Hancock, AYarren, l^hiUips, Hensliaw, and Pemberton. John Adams relates, as an amusing incident, that Molineux was obliged to march side by side with tlie com- mander of some of the troops, to protect them from the iiidig- 358 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. nation of the people, in their progress to the wharf, from which they were to embark for the Castle. As the agent of Charles Ward Apthorp, Mr. Molineux rented the stores belonging to the former, on Wheelwright's wharf, for barracks. The estate of Molineux seems to have passed to Mr. Apthorp, for we find it confiscated as such by the Common- wealth. In 1782 it became the residence of Daniel Denison Eogers. Having completed our circuit of the Common, we may ven- ture the remark that its beauty, as a park, is surpassed by the value of its historical associations. We have seen that part of the forces which captured Louis- burg were assembled and organized here ; that the troops which conquered Quebec were recruited and probably brigaded here by Amherst ; that it was the mustering-place for the conflicts which ushered in the American Revolution ; and the fortified camp which held the beleaguered town in subjection. It is associated with the deep horrors of Quaker executions ; with the eloquence of Whitefield, which paved the way for many eminent divines after him to address the people under the " Cathedral trees." It has in all times been a place for pubhc rejoicings, for the celebration of our republican calendar days, or for martial displays. The repeal of the Stamp Act was celebrated in Boston on the lOtli May, 1766, as no event was ever observed before. Daybreak was ushered in with music, the beating of drums, and firing of small-arms. The guns of the Castle proclaimed the joyful intelligence, which was taken up and echoed by the town batteries. In the evening an obelisk, which had been erected on the Common, was illuminated with two hundred and eighty lamps. REPEAL OBELISK. Thcrc was a general illumination. Hancock's mansion was brilliant with lights, and in front of the house a stage was built from which fireworks were exliib- A TUUU KOUND THE COMMON. 359 ited. The Sons of Liberty had erected a similar stage in front of the AYorkliouse, from whicli they answered the display at the Hancock House. Under this hospitable roof were enter- tained " the genteel part of the Town," while the crowd outside were treated with a pipe of wine. The obelisk was intended to be placed under Liberty Tree, but was con- ^,^ ^^^_ sumed the night of the celebra- tion. Xext above the pedestal were allegorical figures on each of the sides, symboliz- ing the condition of the colony from the enact- ment to the re- peal of the Stamp Act. AVe give a America in distress. copy of an engraving, by Paul Eevere, reproducing one of the sides. Accident alone prevented the Common being the scene of a sanguinary struggle between the royal and American forces. "When Washington occupied Dorchester Heights, he confidently expected an attack from Howe, and had prei)ared a counter- stroke. Two divisions, under Putnam, were to attack the town. Sullivan, with one, was to assault the works on Beacon Hill, Greene, Avith the other, was to carry the post at Barton's Point, and make his way to a junction with Sullivan. Greene was well qualified for the task assigned him, having been in lioston two years before, and seen the lines on the Common. Provi- dence arrested the purpose of Howe, and the town was entered without a shot being fired. Hancock has the credit of first introducing music upon the Common for the benefit of the people. He caused a band to play in front of his dwelling, paid for by himself. In former 360 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. times booths and stands for the sale of refresliments were erected along Paddock's and the Great Mall, ultimately em- bracing all four sides of the Common. Lord Harris, who was captain of the grenadier company of the Fifth Foot, Percy's regiment, wrote home, in 1774, '' Oui camp is pitched in an exceedingly pleasant situation on the gentle descent of a large common, hitherto the property of the Bostonians, and used for the purpose of grazing their cows, which now, poor creatures, often attempt to force their way into their old pastures, where the richest herbage I ever saw abounds." Lord Harris relates an instance of a cow impahng herself on a range of firelocks with the bayonets on, going off with one sticking in her side. Harris's company was at Lexington. At Bunker Hill he received a wound in the head, falling senseless into the arms of his lieutenant, Lord Eawdon. Pubhc executions occurred occasionally on the Common until 1812, when the park was rescued from these legalized exhibi- tions. It ceased to be a common grazing-field under the elder Quincy in 1830, dangerous accidents having occurred to prom- enaders. If a mere handful of settle-rs more than two centu- ries ago allotted fifty acres for the common benefit, a quarter of a million jpeople can well afford to preserve it. VALLEY ACRE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 3G1 CHAPTEE XII. VALLEY ACRE, THE BOWLING GREEX, AND WEST BOSTON. Governor Bowdoiu. — General Burgoyne. — Boston Society in 17S2. — David Hinckley's Stone Houses. — James Lloyd. — Lafayette. — Daniel Davis. — Admiral Davis. — Historic Genealogical Society. — Valley Acre. — Uriah Cottiiig. — Governor Eustis. — Anecdote of Governor Brooks. — Millerite Tabernacle. — Howard Atlienseum. — Bowling Green. — Old Boston Physi- cians. — Charles Bulfinch. — New Fields. — Peter Cliardon. — Mrs. Pel- ham. — Peter Pelham. — Thomas Melvill. — Dr. William Jenks. — Captain Gooch. — West Church. — Leverett Street Jail. — Poor Debtors. — Alms- house. — Massachusetts General Hospital. — Medical College. — National and Eagle Theatres. GOVEEXOR JAMES BOWDOIX lived on Beacon Street, near the corner of the street named for him, the liouse being situated at some distance back from the street, with a high flight of stone steps leading up to it. The family name of the governor was Baudoin. Frequent mention is made in these pages of prominent events or institutions with which the name of Governor Bowdoin is connected. He was chief magistrate of Massachusetts from 1785 - 87, and Shays's Rebellion occurri'd under his administration. It was vigorously suppressed by Bowdoin, to whose aid the officers of the old army (piickly rallied. This was the dark period of our history. The old Articles of Confederation were entirely inadetpiate to carry on the government. 'No taxes could be levied without the consent of all the States, and the central government Avas hkely to fall to pieces for want of the means to carry it on. Public and private credit shared the general wreck. At this crisis the rebellion of Shays broke out. General Lincoln commanded the State forces, with Generals Brooks and Cobb to support him. The outlu-oak was cnished with little bloodshed, and the authority of the laws restored. Bowdoiii's popularity was impaired by this affair, and he lost his election in 16 362 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. 1787. He was a sufferer from consumption, and finally suc- cumbed to its attacks. General Burgoyne occupied the Bowdoin mansion in 1775; at the same time Clinton resided in that of Governor Hancock. These two chiefs overlooked the forces on the Common, and had particular charge of the defences of West Boston. The man- sion in after times became the boarding-house of Mrs. Delano. Next, to the eastward, was the residence of William Phil- lips, Senior, — a fine old pre - Eevolutionary mansion, ap- proached by several flights of stone steps. It stood on the hill, at a higher elevation than the Bowdoin or Sears houses on either side of it, the summit being considerably higher than the house-tops now in Ashburton Place. Some noble trees stand- ing on the estate formed a landmark for approaching vessels, — they were cut down for fuel by the British. This estate be- longed successively to Samuel Sewall and Edward Bromfield. Preeman Place Chapel was erected on the site. What the society of Beacon Street and its vicinity was in the last century may be gathered from the testimony of a keen observer of that period. Count Segur says that " Boston affords a proof that democ- racy and luxury are not incompatible, for in no part of the United States is so much comfort or a more agreeable society to be found. Europe does not offer, to our admiration, women adorned with greater beauty, elegance, education, or more bril- liant accomplishments than the ladies of Boston, such as Mes- dames Smith, Tudor, Jervis, and Morton." M. de Chastellux also pays suitable acknowledgments to the Boston ladies, like a gallant Frenchman ; while both unite in eulogy of Adams, Hancock, Dr. Cooper, and other leading spirits it was their fortune to meet. The two stone houses at the easterly corner of Beacon and Somerset Streets, now, while we write, undergoing such strange manipulations, were erected soon after the war of 1812 by David Hinckley. They were, at that time, the handsomest private residences in Boston, and were occupied successively by citizens distinguished in financial or commercial pursuits, until VxVLLEY ACRE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 303 tliey became the Somerset Club House. They liave lately passed iuto tlie hands of the Aiuericaii Congregational Association. Connected with one house is a domestic tragedy, which can now affect no one by repetition. An Italian, named Perodi, w^ho was the French teacher of a daughter of Mr. Hinckley, availed himself of the opportunity to secure the young lady's affections. This, coming to the knowledge of her friciidp, resulted in an interview, at which Perodi advanced pretensions to rank and position in the old country by documents after- wards alleged to be forged. The denouement occasioned the absence of Perodi for a time ; but Jie returned, and, ascertain- ing that the object of his pursuit was then living in Somerset Place (Allston Street), repaired thither, entered the house un- perceived, ascended the stairs to the lady's apartment, and, being discovered, stabbed himself with a poniard. Mr. Hinckley took down an old stone house situated on his lot, considered the oldest, of stone, in Boston. It was built by Eev. James Allen of the First Church, and was occupied by his descendants until about 1806, one of whom, Jeremiah Allen, was high sheriff of Suffolk. Proceeding onward through Somerset Street, modo j^^dextri, we pass the First Baptist Church, Ashburton Place, formerly Somerset Court, Pemberton Square, now a mere crater of the old hill, and pause before a double brick mansion, with arched doorway, now a hotel under the sign of the " Somerset House." This house was built by Hon. James Lloyd after Somerset Street was laid out, and opened at the back upon the gardens of his father's estate, which extended up the hill beside that of Gardiner Greene. The elder Lloyd was a very distinguished physician ; Drs. Joseph Warren, John Jeffries, Isaac Pand, and John Clarke were students with him. He was for some time surgeon at the Castle, and had a fine old residence on Tiviiiont Row. His son was in the United States Senate in 1808-13, during a most exciting period. A Bostonian by birth, he liad been active in mercantile affairs before engaging in political life. Lafayette became his guest in tliis house in 1825. During this 364 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. sojourn the Marquis paid visits to Daniel Webster, John Ad- ams, at Quincy, General Hull, at the residence of ^Ir. McLellan in Wintlirop Place, where he met his old companions in arms, Generals Cobb, Huntington, Colonel Putnam, and others. He also visited General Dearborn and Hon. T. L. Winthrop, Mrs. Ticknor, in Tremont Street, Madam Humphries, v^^idow of his old comrade General Humphries, in Mt. Vernon Street, and attended a party given in his honor by Mayor Quincy. A public dinner was given to Lafayette at the Marlborough Hotel, at which were present the Secretary of War, Governor, and Lieutenant-Governor, Hons. Messrs. Phillips, Lloyd, and Webster, the veteran Colonel McLane, and others. Odes were delivered on this occasion by Charles Sprague and Colonel Everett. The General went afterwards to the Boston Theatre, where he listened to a complimentary address from Miss Powell, and witnessed the play of Charles II., with Finn, Kilner, etc., in the cast. The two buildings on the opposite side of the street, one of which is used by the Historic Genealogical Society, were built by Daniel Davis, a lawyer of some prominence in the District of Maine, who removed to Boston in 1804. As a barrister, his talents were not, perhaps, conspicuous at a bar where Otis, Mor- ton, and their peers practised, but he had the faculty of grasp- ing the points of a case in the court-room, and constructing his argument as the trial progressed. He was appointed Solicitor- General by Governor Strong, — an office created expressly for him, as, in 1767, it had been for Jonathan Sewall. Perez Mor- ton was at the same time Attorney-General. Eear- Admiral Charles H. Davis is the son of Daniel Davis, and was born in the most southerly of the two houses. Admiral Davis is best known as victor in the engagement with the rebel fleet before Memphis, Tenn., in June, 1862. His scientific labors in connection with the naval service have been of great value. He was with Dupont in the expedition which captured Port Eoyal, with Farragut below Vicksburg, and in the expedi- tion up the Yazoo. While engaged in the coast survey he dis- covered several dangerous shoals off" Nantucket, in the track of vessels bound into New York. VALLEY ACRE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST B(JSTON. 3G5 The Xew England Historic Genealogical Society occupies tho northerly house, — a hamlsome and well-arranged Iniilding. The local histories and family genealogies of Xew England are the objects upon which the society has been founded. For an antiquarian association it is eminently progressive, — a circum- stance that accounts for its rise and progress among older insti- tutions of its kind. Its collections, open to every student, are made available through the exertions and interest of its officers in every department of historical research. The collections and publications of the society have stimulated the writing of town histories, so that what was once a hopeless labor may be inves- tigated in a brief period and with system. The society had its beginning in 1844, with five gentlemen well known in antiquarian circles, namely, Charles Ewer, Samuel G. Drake, W. H. Montague, J. Wingate Thornton, and Lemuel Shattuck. Mr. Ewer, an old Boston bookseller, was the first president. He deserves honorable mention as the pro- jector of the South Cove improvement and the opening of Avon Street. In 1845 the society was incorporated. This elegant building, which was dedicated in 1871, cost about $ 40,000, and was entirely paid for by subscriptions among members and others, raised chiefly through the instru- mentality of its president, Hon. Marshall P. AVilder. It con- tains 9,000 volumes, 25,000 pamphlets, and a large collection of manuscripts and curiosities, whicli, being wholly germane to the field in which the society labors, form a unitpie and vahia- ble library. Valley Acre was a name anciently applied to the valley lying between Pemberton and Beacon Hills, now intersected l)y Som- erset and Bulfinch Streets, and reaching to the low ground below. The name was retained until about the present century, or until tlie disappearance of the hills upon eitlier side deprived it of significance. Farther down Somerset Street we jiass the substantial, com- fortable-looking residences of Messrs. Webster and Cot ting, and of Dr. Jackson, whose name is associated with the ether dis- covery. The Sultan sent a decoration to Dr. Jackson, whoso 366 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. claims to be the discoverer of the great anaesthetic were disputed by Dr. Morton, the weight of public opinion favoring the latter. We have in the Public Garden a monument dedicated to the discovery, whereon one may seek in vain for the name of him who has conferred such incalculable benefit upon the human race. It will scarcely be credited that a discovery fraught with such important consequences as was that of applying ether in sur- gical operations could not be announced in a Boston newspaper until the discoverer sent to the office of publication a paid advertisement. Yet this actually happened less than thirty years ago. Ether was first administered by Dr. W. T. G. Mor- ton, at his office, 19 Tremont Eow, now Street, about opposite the northerly end of the Museum, September 30, 1846. The value of the discovery was at first more readily appreciated abroad than at home, Mr. Cotting, notwithstanding the gigantic enterprises he con- ducted, in consequence of reverses during the M^ar of 1812, died in straitened circumstances. To his genius Boston owes the inauguration of an era of improvement begun against the tradi- tional and conservative jDolicy of the citizens generally. By dint of indomitable energy and perseverance he succeeded in realizing most of his designs, and, had he lived, would have worthily continued what he had so well began. Besides the distinguished occupants of the Webster mansion mentioned was William Eopes, an eminent merchant connected with the Eus- sian trade. Dr. William Eustis, who succeeded John Brooks as governor of Massachusetts in 1824, found his residence in Eoxbury — he lived in the old Shirley mansion — too distant from the State House, during sessions of the General Court, and, in the winter of 1825, took lodgings with Mrs. Miles, the successor of Mrs. Carter, in Howard Street. The house stood where the Howard Athen?eum is. Here he soon fell ill and died, being buried from this house on the 12th of February with military honors. The funeral services took place at the Old South, and the remains were placed in the Granary Burying Ground. Gov- ernor Eustis studied medicine under Joseph Warren ; he served VALLEY ACKE, BOWLING GKEEX, AND WEST BOSTON. 367 as surgeon in the Revolutionary army, and, at its conclusion, took a residence in Sudbury Street, and commenced a practice, lie served two terms as member of Congress, and held other offices under the State. General Sumner relates of him some interesting reminis- cences. He says : — " I remember one occasion particularly, Avhen I was invited to the governor's table to a dinner given in compliment to Lord Stanley, Lord Wortley, and M. Labouchiere. The latter gentleman, in his visit to Boston, was so impressed with the beauty and execution of AUston's picture of Elijah in the Wilderness, that he purchased it of the painter at the price of a thousand dollars. " Brooks and Eustis, two old cronies of the Revolution, about the time of Lafayette's reception, in 1824, were on unfriendly terms. The difference was caused by the election of Brooks as PrL'sident of the Society of the Cincinnati, a vacancy having occurred while Eustis was vice-president and absent from the country. The friends of both exerted themselves to bring about a reconciliation, and, an interview being arranged, the old friends did not embrace each other merely as old friends, but they shook hands so heartily, and the intercourse was so familiar, — the one calling the other * John,' and the other calling Eustis ' Doctor,' and sometimes ' Bill,' — that they parted with as friendly feelings as had existed between them at any period.' " L^pon the spot where stands the Howard Athen.Tum was built, during the excitement of 1843-44, a huge wooden struc- ture, dignified with the name of " Tabernacle." Here the dis- ciples of the prophet Miller awaited the day of ascension, amid scenes that beggar description. The interior was hung Anth pictures representing the monsters of the Book of Revelation, in which the artist had drawn freely upon imaginatiostonians, having had a school at the house of Philip Dumaresq, in Summer Street, as early as 1738. He is still more noted as the earliest Boston engraver we have an account of, having, in 1727, engraved a portrait of Cotton Mather. He also engraved a number of Smibert's paintings, chiefly of the leading Boston divines of that day. Mr. Pelham also used the pencil with considerable skill. '"^ Retracing our steps to Green Street, we find a resident who brought the old and new Boston into juxtaposition, until his decease, in 1832, at the advanced age of eighty-one. We allude to Major Thomas MelviU, who lived in an old wooden house on the south side of Green Street, between Staniford and the building formerly the Church of the Advent. Thomas Mel- vill's father was a cadet of the Scottish family of the Earls of Melvill and Leven. He came to this country quite young, and at his death left Thomas, his only son, an orphan at the age of ten years. The latter was educated at New Jersey College, whence he graduated in 1769 ; he took the degree of A. M. at Harvard in 1773. He was a democrat, and a firm friend of Samuel Adams, of whom he had a small portrait by Copley, now at Harvard. Herman Melville, the well-known author, is his grandson. Major Melvill's long and honorable connection with the Boston Fire Department continued for forty years, and his death was finally caused by over-fatigue at a fire near his house. This connection commenced as fireward in 1779, in the good old times when those officers carried staves tipped at the * Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society. VALLEY ACRE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 373 end with a brass flame, and marshalled the bystanders into lines for passing buckets of water to the scene of conflagration. One of the town engines was named Melvill, in honor of the major. ]\Iajor Melvill was a member of the Cadets, one of the mem- orable Tea-Party, and caj^tain in Craft's regiment of artillery in the Revolutionary War. He commanded a detachment sent to ^antasket to watch the movements of the British fleet. In the expedition into Rhode Island, in 1778, he took the rank of major. On the organization of the Custom House, under State authority, he was appointed surveyor, which office he held until the death of James Lovell, when he was commissioned naval officer by Washington, remaining in office more than forty years, until superseded by President Jackson in 1829. The brick church mentioned in Green Street was consecrated in 1826, at which time Rev. Dr. William Jenks was installed as pastor. He was the first to found a Seamen's Bethel in Bos- ton ; and was the author of a valuable Commentary on the Bible, and many other useful works. The Doctor was a valued mem- ber of a number of learned societies, a pure and much-beloved member of society, and died sincerely regretted. His residence Avas in Crescent Place. Gouch Street, which we think should be spelled Gooch, is connected with an incident of American history fitly perj^etu- ated by the name. When Sir William Howe attacked Fort Washington, on the Hudson, and had summoned the garrison to surrender, Wash- ington, who from the opposite shore had witnessed the assault, wished to send a note to Colonel Magaw, acquainting him that if he could hold out till evening, he (Washington) would en- deavor to bring off the garrison during the night. The brave Captain Gooch offered to be the bearer of the note. " He ran down to the river, jumped into a small boat, pushed over the river, landed under the bank, ran up to the fort, and delivered the message ; came out, ran and jumped over the broken ground, dodging the Hessians, some of whom struck at him with their pieces, and others attempted to thrust liim with their bayonets ; 374 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. WEST CHURCH. escaping through them, he got to his boat and returned to Fort Lee." ^ Gouch Street is further noted for its sugar-houses, of which there were seven in the town in 1794, each capable of manufac- turing 100,000 pounds annually. The West Church, on Lynde, fronting Cambridge Street, was organized in 1736. Eev. William Hooper, father of a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was the first pastor, but after nine years' service he became attached to the Church of England, and crossed the ocean to take orders. He became afterwards pastor of Trinity. Jonathan Mayhe'w, one of the greatest hghts of the Boston pul- pit, whose eloquence stimulated and upheld the cause of liberty, succeeded Mr. Hooper. His usefulness was terminated by his decease in July, 1766, two months after the Stamp Act repeal, on which he preached a memorable discourse. Simeon Howard, Charles Lowell, and C. A. Bartol have been the successive pastors. The frame of the original Church was set up in September, 1736, but it was not until the following spring that it was com- pleted. It shared the fate of other Boston churches in 1775, being used for barracks, and also suffered the loss of its steeple, taken down by the British to prevent signals being made to the Provincials at Cambridge. The old house was taken down and the present one built in 1806. The first Sunday school estab- lished in New England is said to have originated in the West Church, in 1812. The charitable and corrective institutions of the town, after their removal from Park, Beacon, and (Jourt Streets, were located at West Boston. The jail remained in Leverett Street until 1851, when it was removed to its present location on the north- * Heath's Memoirs. VALLEY ACRE, BOWLIXG GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 375 erly extensiou of Cliarles Street, situated on land reclaimed from tlie sea. This was not etfected until after twelve years' agitation had demonstrated the necessity for the change. There were two separate prisons within the same enclosure in Leverett Street, one of which was converted into a House of Correction in 1823, and was so used until some time after the completion of the House of Correction at South Boston. The Leverett Street jail Avas considered very secure, walls and floors being composed of large blocks of hewn stone clamped together with iron, while between the courses loose cannon-balls were laid in cavities hollowed out for the purpose. Such a building neces- sarily occupied some time in construction, and upon its comple- tion, in 1822, the old stone jail in Court Street was taken down, the materials going in part to build the gun-house in Thacher Street. In the Leverett Street jail debtors were confined, and even when under bail could not go out of the narrow limits of the ward in which it was situated, without forfeiture of their bonds, and subjecting their bondsmen to payment of the entire claim against them. The law which gave the creditor this power over the person of his unfortunate debtor was not repealed until a comparatively recent period, although mitigated in some of its more rigorous provisions. Charles Dickens animadverted severely upon our prison sys- tem, which he examined when in this country, and pronounced barbarous. The " American Notes " may have wounded our self- love, but they told some unpleasant though wholesome truths. Among the executions which have taken place in the enclosure of Leverett Street jail, that of Professor Webster is prominent. His demeanor at the gallows was dignified and self-possessed. Before he suffered the penalty of the law he addressed a letter to a relative of the family he had so terribly wronged, in which he eloquently implored that his punishment might fully expiate his crime. The streets Barton, Yernon, and Minot are of comparatively recent origin. They occupy the site of the Almshouse built in 1800, after its demolition in Beacon Street. At the time of its 376 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON". erection here it was situated on the bank of the river, from which a wharf, now forming the site of the old Lowell depot, extended. The New Almshouse, as it was called, was a brick building of three stories, with a central structure, from which wings ex- tended. This central building was considerably higher tlian the rest, and had lofty, arched windows, with a raised pediment relieved by ornamental work ; on either gable stood a carved emblematic figure. The whole edifice was two hundred and seventy feet in length by fifty-six in depth. It stood until May, 1825, when it was superseded by the House of Industry at South Boston, and the land sold to private individuals. A brick wall, with iron gates, surrounded the Almshouse enclosure. No building having been erected to take the place of the Work- house, or Bridewell, the inmates were obliged to be received into the Almshouse ; but a small brick building was subse- quently erected, adjacent to the latter, for a Bridewell. It has always been the flite of some who have known better days to become dependants upon the public charity. One nota- ble instance is mentioned of the daughter of a clergyman of the French Protestant Church having sought and obtained an asylum in the old Almshouse. She continued to visit and be re- ceived into the houses of her former friends, who, with intuitive delicacy, forebore to question her on the subject of her residence. The tract bounded by Cambridge Street, North Eussell Street, and the Hospital grounds was once under water. Bridge, Blos- som, and Vine Streets have all been built since 1800. At the west end of McLean Street (formerly South Allen), with the front towards Cambridge Street, stands the Massachu- setts General Hospital. It is built of Chelmsford gmnito, and was considered in 1821, when completed, the finest public or private edifice in New England. It stands on what was for- merly Prince's pasture, four acres of which constitute the Hos- pital domain. In 1846 it was enlarged by the addition of two wings. Charles Bulfinch was the architect of the original. In this hospital ether was first applied in a surgical operation of magnitude, by request of Dr. J. C. Warren. VALLEY ACHE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 377 Some of the sources from which the Hospital drew its being have been adverted to. A bequest of $ 5,000, at the close of the last century, was the beginning. N^othing further was effected until 1811, when lifty-six gentlemen were incorporated under the name of the Massachusetts General Hosi^ital. The MASSACHUSETTS GENERAL HOSPITAL. charter likewise granted the Province House, under condition that $ 100,000 should be raised from other sources within ten years. The Hospital Life Insurance Company was required to pay tribute to its namesake by its act of incorporation. IS'o eleemosynary institution in the country ever accumulated the means of carrying out its humane objects ^^dth greater rapidity. John McLean bequeathed $ 100,000 to the Hospital, and $ 50,000 more to be divided between that institution and Harvard. By the year 1816 the trustees were able to purchase the estate at Charlestown, now SomerviUe, and build two brick houses, which were ready for the reception of the insane in 1818. This is the asylum now known by the name of its noble benefactor, jMcLean. His name was justly conferred upon the street without loss to its ancient possessor, as there was also Xorth Allen Street, now known simply as Allen. In Grove Street we have the new location of the Massachu- setts ]\Iedical College, after its removal from Mason Street. The building derives a horrible interest as the scene of the murder of Dr. Parkman, the details of which are yet fresh in 378 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. the memories of many. The iinsuspecting victim repaired to the College, where he had an appointment with his murderer, from which he never departed alive, l^o similar event ever produced so great a sensation in Boston. Both the parties were of the first standing in society. The deadly blow might have been struck in a moment of passion, but the almost fiendish art with which the remains were concealed and consumed was fatal to Dr. Webster. Not the least of the touching episodes of the trial was the appearance of the daughters of the prisoner on the witness stand, giving their evidence under the full con- viction of their father's innocence. Besides the Howard Athenaeum the West End had still an- other theatre within its limits. In 1831 a small wooden build- ing was erected by Messrs. W. and T. L. Stewart on the old Mill Pond, fronting on Traverse Street. This was designed for equestrian performances, and was called the American Amphi- theatre. Mr. William Pelby, formerly of the Tremont, became the lessee, and remodelled the interior so as to adaj^t it to dra- matic performances, opening it on the 3d of July, under the name of the Warren Theatre, The enterprise proving success- ful, Mr. Pelby was enabled to build a new house in the summer of 1836, which was inaugurated on the 15th of August as the National Theatre. At this house Miss Jean Margaret Daveni:>ort made her first appearance before a Boston audience, as did also Julia Dean, a favorite Western actress. In April, 1852, the theatre was destroyed by fire, but was rebuilt and reopened in November of the same year by Mr. Leonard. There was a little theatre erected in 1841, at the corner of Haverhill and Traverse Streets, opened by Mr. Wyzeman Mar- shall under the name of the Eagle Theatre. Mr. W. H. Smith " officiated a short time here as manager, but the concern proving a serious rival to the National, Mr. Pelby obtained an interest, and closed the house in a manner not altogether creditable to him.''' Several of the companies of the regiment of Massachusetts vol- unteers, raised for service in the Mexican war, were quartered at * Clapp's Boston Stage. VALLEY ACRE, BOWLING GREEN, AND WEST BOSTON. 379 tlie AVest End. Companies " A " and " B " had quarters in Pitts Street. Lieutenant-Colonel Abbott's company was located in the old wooden building on the east side of Leverett Street, Avhich was afterwards used as a police station. Captain Edward Webster's company was enlisted in the famous building on the corner of Court and Tremont Streets, and in the office of his father, Daniel Webster. Captain Webster afterwards became major of the regiment, and died in Mexico. Isaac Hull Wright was the colonel. The ]\Iexican war was unpopular in Boston. The regiment was neglected by the State officials, and greeted with oppro- brious epithets, and even pelted with mud, when it paraded in the streets. INIeetings were called in Faneuil Hall, at which the war and the soldiers were denounced by the antislavery leaders, Theodore Parker, Wendell Phillips, W. Lloyd Garrison, and others. As soon as the regiment was mustered into the United States service, the State refused to have anything fur- ther to do with it, and after its return home with half its original number, it was severely characterized by the executive. General Wintield Scott gave the regiment a flag of honor, paid for out of the ransom of the city of Mexico. This was offered to, but rejected by, the State, and is now in the posses- sion of the National Lancers. This flag represents California, witli its untold millions ; it should be reclaimed and placed in the State House. The men died ofl" rapidly after their return home, and not many are left. They were in a great measure of the worst description, and desertions were numerous. The uni- form was a cadet gray, with a short coatee and flat cap, which excited the ridicule of the dandy \varriors of the State militia, but has been worn by Blucher, the royal princes, and victorious hosts of Prussia. 380 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTER XIII. FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. Churclx Green. — New South Church. — Dr. Kirkland. — American Headquar- ters. — General Heath. — Anecdote of General Gates. — Jerome Bonaparte. — Sir William Pepperell. — Nathaniel Bowditch. — George Bancroft. — Trinity Cliurch. — Seven Star Inn and Lane. — Peter Faneuil. — Governor Sullivan. — Small-Pox Parties. — Duke of Kent. — Sir Edmund Andros. — Lamb Tavern. — White Horse Tavern, — Colonel Daniel Messinger. — Lion Tavern. — Handel and Haydn Society. — Lion Theatre, — Curious Statement about Rats. THE name of Church Green was applied very early to the vacant space lying at the intersection of Bedford and Sum- mer Streets, from which we may infer that it was looked upon as a proper site for a meeting-house by the earliest settlers of Boston. The land was granted by the town to a number of petitioners in 1715, of whom Samuel Adams, father of the patriot, was one. There was not a more beautiful site for a church in Boston. The ground was high and level, the old church having an unob- structed outlook over the harbor. Samuel Checkley was the first pastor, ordained in 1718. Our engraving represents the church as rebuilt in 1814. The originators of the movement for the new church held their first meetings at the old Bull Tavern, at the corner of Summer and Sea Streets, of which we find mention in 1708. The church spire towered to a height of one hundred and ninety HEW SOUTH CHURCH. FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 381 feet from the foundation. The building was of Chelmsford granite, and designed by Bultinch ; a portico projected from, the front, supported by four Doric columns. In 1868 it was demolished, and the temples of traffic have arisen in its stead. Fifty years gone by Summer Street was, beyond dispute, the most beautiful avenue in Boston. Magnihcent trees then skirted its entire length, overarching the driveway with interlacing branches, so that you walked or rode as within a grove in a light softened by the leafy screen, and over the shadows of the big elms lying across the pavement. The palaces of trade now rear their splendid fronts where stood the gardens or mansions of the old merchants or statesmen of Boston. The old wooden house — quite respectable for its day — in which Dr. John T. Kirkland resided was at the corner of Sum- mer and Lincoln Streets. He was the son of the celebrated Indian missionary, Samuel Kirkland, founder of Hamilton Col- lege, who was instrumental in attaching the Oneidas to the American cause during the Revolution, and acted as chaplain to our forces under General Sullivan in 1799. The younger Dr. Kirkland, who possessed abilities of a high order, became, in 1810, president of Harvard. Another eminent clergyman, Jeremy Belknap, was also a resident of Summer Street. Bedford Street was in former times known as Pond Lane, from the Town Watering-Place situated on the east side. A line draAvn due south from Hawley Street would pass through the pond. Blind Lane was a name applied to the lower part of the street in 1800. Summer Street was called " Y^ Mylne Street," from its conducting towards Windmill Point, where a mill was erected, it appears, as early as 1636, the higliway to it being ordered laid out in 1644. As late as 1815 there was a pasture of two acres in Summer Street, and the tinkling of cow-bells was by no means an un- usual sound there. The fine old estates of the Geyers, Coffins, Eussells, Barrells, Lydes, Prebles, etc. were covered with or- chards and gardens, and these hospitable residents could set before their guests cider of their own manufocture, or butter from their own dairies. Chauncy Place, named for the distin- 382 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. giiished pastor of the First Church, was laid out in 1807, over a part of the estate of Ebenezer Preble, brother of Commodore Edward, a leading merchant of Boston, and at one time a partner of William Gray. Mr. Preble's house was on the lower corner of what is now Chauncy Street. The estate of the First Church adjoined on the west. We have noticed the residence in this street of Daniel Web- ster, which the stranger may find without trouble, and will not pass without rendering silent homage to the matchless abilities of that great man. Mr. Webster cared little for money, and was sometimes pressed by his creditors. On one occasion he was dunned by a needy tradesman for a trifling sum, and, after emptying his pockets in vain, he bade his visitor wait until he could call on a friend near at hand for the money. The loan was no sooner asked than obtained ; but at his own door Mr. Webster was met by an application from another friend for a deserving charity, to whom he gave the money he had bor- rowed, and returned empty-handed to his creditor. When Mr. Webster received Lafayette after the ceremonies at Bunker Hill, to give eclat to the occasion and accommodate the numerous and distinguished company, a door was made con- necting with the adjoining house of Mr. Israel Thorndike. The bullet which the Marquis received in his leg at Brandy- wine was the occasion of a graceful compliment by President John Quincy Adams. A new fi^igate was ready to launch at Washing- ton, in which it was intended Lafayette should take passage for France, and, when all was ready, the President, who had kept his purpose a secret from every one, himself christened her the Bran- dywine, to the surprise of Commodore Tingey and the naval constructor, who supposed she would be called the Susquehanna. The impression has obtained that Boston ceased to be a gar- risoned town after the evacuation by Sir William Howe, and the departure of the great body of our own troops for New York. This is very far from being the case. The command of the town was first assumed by Putnam, was transferred to Greene, and finally remained with General Ward, whose age and infirmity prevented his taking the field actively. The FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 383 camps at Cambridge and Eoxbury continued to be the rendez- vous of the new levies. The town of Boston was the head- quarters of the Eastern District, with a regular garrison. James Urquhart, the British town-major, was succeeded by an American officer, ^lajor Swasey, with the same title. Colonel Keith was deputy adjutant-general under Heath. General Ward was relieved by General Heath in 1777, and retired from the army. General Heath established his head- quarters at the mansion-house of Hon. Thomas Russell, which stood some distance back from Summer Street, about where Otis Street now is. Here the General entertained D'Estaing, Pulaski, Silas Deane, Burgoyne, Phillips, and Riedesel. It was the fortune of General Heath to command in Boston while the prisoners from Saratoga and Bennington remained at Cambridge, and he was soon engaged in a petit guerre with Burgoyne. Soon after the arrival of the convention troops, Phillips proposed to General Heath that all orders affecting the prisoners should be transmitted through their own generals, but the American com- mander was not disposed to thus delegate his authority. Heath was succeeded by General Gates in October, 1778, who arrived with his wife and suite on the 6th of that month and assumed the command. Gates, like Washington and Gage, had served in the campaign of Braddock, where he was severely wounded, and brought off the field by a soldier for whom he ever after entertained an affectionate regard. Gates was then a captain in the British army, and his preserver was a private in the royal artillery, named Penfold. The old soldier, having been invalided, desired to remain in America, and applied to Gates for his advice. We give a part of the reply, which does honor to the heart and memory of Gates : — " Come and rest your firelock in my chimney-comer, and partake with me ; while I have, my savior Penfold shall not want ; and it is my wish, as well as Mrs. Gates's, to see you spend the evening of your life comfortably. Mrs. Gates desires to be aff'ectionately remembered to you." Boston can thus boast of having been commanded by the ablest generals on either side of the Revolutionary struggle. 384 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. General Gates was said to have lived at one time with his father in the service of Charles, Duke of Bolton. It was his fortune to have achieved the greatest victory of the Revolution at Sara- toga, and sustained the most complete defeat at Camden, of any officer commanding in that v/ar. The Eussell mansion was afterwards occupied as a public house by Leon Chappotin. Jerome Bonaparte, after his mar- riage with Miss Patterson at Baltimore, made a visit to Boston, and lodged here for a time. It will be recollected that this marriage was never sanctioned by the Emperor. Otis Place, now Street, was laid out through the estate of Sir William Pepperell. The Sir William Pepperell of our notice was the grandson of the captor of Louisburg, and son of Colonel Nathaniel Spar- hawk. By the tenor of his grandfather's will, which made him the residuary legatee of the baronet's possessions, he was re- quired to change his name to Pepperell. This was done by an act of the Massachusetts Legislature. The baronetcy became extinct with the decease of the elder Sir William, and was re- created by the king for the benefit of his grandson in 1774. The younger Sir William was a stanch friend of the mother country, and was one of the King's IMandamus Councillors in 1774. He left America with the lioyalists in 1775, and his large estates in Boston and in Maine were confiscated. At No. 8 Otis Place lived Nathaniel Bowditch, so long Actuary of the IMassachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Company in Boston. Born in poverty, after serving an apprenticeship to a ship-chandler until he was twenty-one, and following the sea for a number of years, he published in 1800, before he was thirty, his work on navigation. His commentary on the cele- brated Mecanique Celeste of Laplace established his fame as one of the leading scientific minds of either the Old or New World. His son, Nathaniel IngersoU, had improved an anti- quarian taste by exhaustive researches among the records of the town and colony, and the articles from his pen under the sig- nature of " Gleaner " were of the greatest interest to all students of our local history. His contemporary " Sigma " (L. M. Sar- FKOM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 385 gent), wielded in the same cause a brilliant and caustic pen, investing the characters of the dead past with life and action. At the corner of AYinthrop and Otis Place was the residence of George Bancroft in 1840, at which time he was Collector of the port of Boston. His History of the United States, begun in 1834 and just completed, is the most extensive work on that subject now extant. Mr. Bancroft entered the cabinet of President Polk as Secretary of the Xavy in 1845, establishing, while at the head of his bureau, the Xaval Academy at Anna- polis. He is now our minister at Berlin. The estate at the southwest corner of Siunmer and Chaun- cy Streets was the property of the First Church, having been conveyed to it in 1680. The greater part of the original place was laid out over the church estate to gain access to the church, which was placed upon that part of the ground in the rear of Summer Street formerly the garden of the parsonage. Four brick dwellings were built on the Summer Street front by Benjamin Joy in 1808. Before this took place the ground was occupied by the i3arsonage. One of the j^astors who tilled the pulpit after the removal to this locality was William Emerson, father of Ealph Waldo Emerson, the essayist and poet. His ministrations continued from 1799 to 1811, and he had the distinction of preaching the first sermon here. After sixty years' service, the house in Chauncy Place was deserted by the society for the new and elegant temple at the corner of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets, which was occu- pied December, 1868. An enduring relic of the " Old Brick " church remains in a slab of slate taken from beneath a window in the second story, south side, on which is inscribed, — "Bunied to ashes October 8, 1711. Rebuilding June 25th, 1712. July 20, 1713." The Post-Office occupied this corner in 1859, at which time Nalium Capen was postmaster; but remained only until the next year, the site not being considered an eligible one. By the year 1728 King's Chapel could not accommodate its numerous parishioners a,t the south part of the town, and steps were taken to build an Episcopal church at the corner of Haw- 17 Y 386 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ley and Summer Streets. The corner-stone was not laid, liow- ever, until 1734, when Mr. Commissary Price of King's Chapel officiated at this ceremony. The next year it was opened for worship. Among the first officers we find the familiar names of Charles A2)thorp, Benjamin Faneuil, Philip Dumaresq, William Coffin, and Thomas Aston. Eev. Addington Daven- port, a brother-in-law of Peter Faneuil, who had been an assistant at King's Chapel in 1737, was the first rector of Trinity. The first building was of wood. It was ninety feet long, and sixty broad, without any external adornment. It had neither OLD TRINITY CHURCH. tower nor lile, nor win- dows in the low- er story of the front. There were three en- trances in front unprotected by porches. The interior was composed of an arch resting up- on Corinthian pillars with the chancel were Taken handsomely carved and gilded capitals. In some paintings, considered very beautiful in their day. altogether, Trinity might boast the handsomest interior of any church in Boston of its time. In 1828 it was supplanted by the granite edifice seen in our view on the opposite page, Eev. John S. J. Gardiner laying the corner-stone. Trinity, like the other Episcoj^al churches, has tombs underneath it. "We do not learn that Trinity received any special marks of royal favor, such as were sliown to its predecessors, King's Chapel and Christ Church. To the former the king and queen (William and Mary) gave, besides the communion plate, a pul- pit-cloth, a cushion, and a painting which reached from the top FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 387 to the bottom of the east end of the church, containing the Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer, and the Apostles' Creed. But Governor Shirley, who had so liberally aided the Chapel, gave Trmity a service for communion, table-cloths, and books. Peter Faneuil had in 1741 ottered .£100 towards an organ, but one was not procured until 1744. When General Washington was in Boston in 1789 he passed the Sabbath here, and went to hear Dr. (afterwards Bishop) Parker in the forenoon, and to Brattle Street in the afternoon, where he sat in Governor Bowdoin's pew. Curiously enough. Trinity Church occupies the site of the old " Pleiades " or " Seven Star Inn," from which Sum- mer Street took its ancient name of Seven Star Lane. There was another sign of the same name displayed by trinity church in is72. William Whitwell, a tradesman near the drawbridge, in 1763. Peter Faneuil occupied pew No. 40 in Old Trinity. We may easily picture him descending from his chariot on a Sun- day morning while his negro coachman assists him to alight. We doubt not the heads of the young Boston belles were turned towards the wealthy bachelor as he advanced up the aisle to his devotions. His good brother Davenport no doubt enjoyed those perquisites so pleasantly referred to by Pope when he says, — " He that hath these may pass his life, Drink with tlie 'squire, and kiss his wife ; On Sundays preach, and eat his fill ; And fast on Fridays, — if he will ; 388 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Toast Cliurcli and Queen, explain the news, Talk with chuivh -wardens about pews, Pray heartily for some new gift, * And shake his head at Dr. Swift." The corner of Hawley Street, next below Trinity, will be remembereil as the estate of Governor James Sullivan and of Lieutenant-Governor Gray. Governor Sullivan was tlie brother of the Eevolutionary general; was elected governor of Massachusetts in 1807, and re-elected in 1808. He had been a member of the ^lassachu- setts Provincial Congress ; Judge of the Superior Court ; and Delegate to Congress in 178-1, from the District of Maine where he then resided. ^Ir. Sullivan was also a member of the State Constitutional Convention, and one of tlie Commissionei-s ap- pointed by Washington to settle the boundary between the United States and British Provinces. AVilliam Sidlivan, son of the governor, was a distinguished lawyer and scholar. He was a stanch Federalist, and wrote an able vindication of that party. When Governor Sullivan was before the people as a candi- date, it is said a caricature ap})eared in tlie Centinel reflecting severely upon his integrity. His son, Eichard Sullivan, way- laid Benjamin Russell, the editor, in the vicinity of Scollay's Buildings, as he was proceeding to the office from his residence in Pinckney Street, and after demanding of Eussell if he was responsible fur all that appeared in his paper, and receiving an affirmative answer, struck him a blow across the face with his cane, leaving Eussell staggered by the violence and suddenness of the attack. The elder Levi Lincoln was lieutenant-governor Avith Gov- ernor Sullivan, and on his decease became acting governor. His son Levi was lieutenant-governor in 1823, and governor in 1825-34. Another son, Enoch, was governor of Maine in 1827-29. On the decease of their mother, Martha Lincoln, her remains were followed to the grave by her two sons, then chief magistrates of two States. Joseph Barrell, whom we have mentioned in our view of Franklin Street, was one of the foremost of the old merchants FEOM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 389 of Boston. His name stands first on the list of directors of the Old United States Bank, in company with John Codman, Caleb Davis, Christopher Gore, John Coffin Jones, John Low- ell, Theodore Lyman, Jonathan Mason, Jr., Joseph Russell, Jr., David Sears, Israel Thorndike, and William Wetmore. It is related that a person carried to a bank in Pennsylvania some bills which that bank had issued, and demanded gold and silver for them. He was answered that the bank did not pay gold or silver. " Give me, then," said he, " bills of the United States Bank." " We have none." " Then give me bills on any bank in Xew England." " We have none of these." '' Pay me, then, in the best counterfeit bills you have." The reader will perhaps experience some incredulity when he is told that, before the discovery of the present mode of vaccina- tion, small-pox parties were among the fasliionable gatherings of Old Boston. The guests were inoculated, and withdrew for a time from the world. An invitation of this kind appears in the following extract from a letter of Joseph Barrell, dated July 8, 1776: — " ISIr. Storer has invited Mrs. Martin to take the small-pox at his house : if Mrs. Wentworth desires to get rid of her fears in the same way, we will accommodate her in the best way we can. I 've several friends that I 've invited, and none of them will be more welcome than Mrs. W." * Joseph Barrell occupied store Xo. 3, south side of the Town Dock, where he advertised brown sugar, double and treble re- fined, looking-glasses, wine, oil, etc. He was the owner of the triangular estate at the junction of Washington with Brattle Street, of which he gave a portion to the town for the widening of the latter. The fine granite structure of the IMessrs. Hovey stands on tlie site of the old-time mansion of the Vassalls, erected by Leonard Yassall, whose son William built the house on Pem- berton Hill, afterwards the residence of Gardiner Greene. Thomas Hubbard, who preceded Hancock as Treasurer of Har- vard CoUege, and Frederick Geyer, who left Boston with tliG * Brewster's Portsmouth. 390 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. adherents of the crown, were subsequent proprietors ; as the estate of the latter it was conhscated, but was subsequently restored. When the Duke of Kent, son of George III., and father of Victoria, the reigning Queen of England, was in Boston, he was present at the wedding of Nancy W. Geyer, who married Eufus G. Aniory. Prince Edward, as he was then styled, did not in- cline to visit Lieutenant-Governor Samuel Adams. South of the Yassall-Geyer property was the estate of John Eo we, whose house — subsequently that of Judge Prescott, father of the historian — stood upon the spot lately occupied by Dr. Eobbins's Church in Bedford Street, opposite the English High and Latin ScIioxdIs. A wharf and street once handed down the name of Rowe, — as true a friend to his country as any whose names have reached a greater renown, — but the wharf alone retains this title. Rowe Street, which was given to and accepted by the city on condition that it should be so called, has be- come since 185G absorbed in Chauncey Street, that part lying between Bedford and Summer Streets having been previous to this divided by an iron fence, the southerly portion being known as Bedford and the northerly as Chauncey Place. Bidding adieu to Summer Street, we pause for a moment at what Avas formerly Bethune's Corner, where now are the glit- tering shop-windows of Shreve, Crump, and Low, and where a ceaseless human tide, crossing the narrow street, struggles with the passing vehicles. From the old mansion-house of Thomas English, which stood here, was buried Benjamin Eaneuil. Looking in the direction of the Old South, a little north of Summer Street, was the reputed residence of Sir Edmund An- dros, who dwelt, it is said, in an old house which disappeared about 1790, and which stood nearly on the spot now occupied by W. H. Allen, 216 Washington Street. This tradition ex- isted early in the present century, and may have been true, though it could not have been the habitation of the knight when Lady Andros, to whose funeral we have referred in a former chapter, died. Andros was governor of New England only three years. We know that his country-seat was at FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 391 Dorchester, — it was still standing in 1825, — and there is abundant evidence that he lived in Boston, but none that we are aware of, that he owned an estate here. Though a change of residence was less common among the old inhabitants of Boston than at the present day, it was no anomaly. Earl Bellomont, writing to the Lords of Trade from Boston, in 1G98, says he paid £ 100 a year for a house, besides his charge f )r a stable, and continues in the following strain : — " It is for the King's honour that his Governour have a house ; there is a very good house plot where Sir Edmund Andros lived in the best part of the town. 'T is the least of their thoughts I doubt to build a house for the King's Governour." This refers without doubt to Cotton Hill or the vicinity, which was then the best part of the town, and Andros only followed the example of Endicott, Bellingham, and Vane, when he located there. The region lying around Summer Street was then considered remote, and less than fifty years ago, when Ann Bent kept a little shop on the spot where the despotic old dragoon of Prince Eupert is said to have dwelt, her customers at the North End complained that she was too far out of town. Threading our way through old Xewbur}^ Street with our face towards the south, we pass the old stand of Thomas and Andrews. As early as the great fire of 1711, Increase Mather says, there were seven booksellers* shops in Boston. In 1747 the Exchange (Old State House) was surrounded with book- sellers' shops, there being at the same time no less than five printing-offices in the town, which were generally well em- ployed, deriving their cliief support from the colleges and schools of Xew England. At this time the Boston Gazette was printed twice a week. Thomas printed the Spy in " Union Street, near the market," " at the south corner of Marshall's Lane, leading from the Mill Bridge into Union Street," and "at the bottom of Eoyal Exchange Lane near the Market, Dock Sfpiare," besides Back Street, where the first number was probably printed. "We cannot pass by the neighborhood of Avon Street with- 392 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. out thinking of old Bartholomew Green and his Xews Letter, of Benjamin Church and liis treachery, of Margaret Fuller and her untimely fate, any more than we can pass the Old South without thinking of the riding-school, or Bunker Hill Monu- ment without thinking of Prescott and Warren. A group of taverns next claims our attention. The inns of Old London rendered up their names freely to their colonial imitators, and our older residents might drink their j^unch under the same signs they were used to frequent beneath the shadow of Old Saint Paul's. We have had no Johnson with his corner at the Mitre, no Dryden with his snug retreat at Will's Coffee-house, nor can we show any as famous as Button's, where Pope, Steele, Swift, Arbuthnot, and Addison were wont to assemble at " the best head in England " ; but we have visited some where matters more serious than wit and sentiment were discussed, and where measures were digested more important to mankind. We commend to our modern hotel-keepers the following ex- tract from a law enacted about 1649 : — "Nor shall any take tobacco in any inne, or common victual house, except in a private room there, so as the master of said house nor any guest there shall take offence thereat ; which if any do, then such persons shall forbear, upon pam of two shilhngs and sixpence for every such offence." We come first to the Adams House, which stands on the ground formerly occupied by the Lamb Tavern, sometimes styled the White Lamb. The " Lamb " was an unpretending building of two stories, but of good repute in Old Boston. The sign is noticed as early as 1 746. Colonel Doty kept at the sign of the Lamb in 1760 ; Edward Kingman kept it in 1826 ; after which it was conducted successively by Laban Adams, for whom the house was named, father of " Oliver Optic " (W. T. Adams), and by A. S. Allen. The first stage-coach to Providence, advertised July 20, 1 767, by Thomas Sabin, put up at the sign of the Lamb. The White Horse Tavern was a few rods south of the Lamb, situated nearly opposite the mansion-house of Dr. Lemuel Hay- ward, physician and surgeon, from whose estate Hayward Place FEOM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 393 is named. It had a large square sign projecting over the foot- way, on which was deUneated a wliite charger. We find this tavern mentioned in 1794, and infer that it was the rendezvous of one of the companies of the Boston Regiment, as young AVoodbridge came here for his sword before meeting Phillips on tlie Common. It was kept by Joseph Morton, father of Perez Morton, in 1760, and for a long time thereafter. In 1787 Israel Hatch became mine host ; we append his advertisement entire : — TAKE NOTICE! Entertainment for Gentlemen and Ladies At the White Horse Tavern, Newbury-Street. My friends and travellers, yoxi '11 meet With kindly welcome and good cheer, And what it is you now shall hear : A spacious house and liquors good, A man who gets his livelihood By favours granted ; hence he '11 be Always smiling, always free : A good large house for chaise or chair, A stable well expos'd to air : To finish all, and make you blest. You '11 have the breezes from the west. And — ye, who flee th' approaching Sol, My doors are open to your call ; Walk in — and it shall be my care T' oblige the weary traveller. From Attleborough, Sirs, I came. Where once I did you entertain, And now shall here as there before Attend you at my open door. Obey all orders with despatch, — Am, Sirs, your servant, Israel Hatch. Boston, May 14, 1787. Colonel Daniel Messinger, who was always in request to sing the odes on public occasions, commenced business near the Lamb Tavern in 1789. He was by trade a hatter, and had served an apprenticeship with XathaJiiel Balch (Governor Han- 17* 394 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. cock's favorite) at 72 Old Cornhill. Colonel Messinger had a voice of great strength and purity, and had sung in presence of Washington, Lafayette, Jerome Bonaparte, and other distin- guished personages. Another neighbor of -the Lamb was the Lion Tavern, on the site of the present Melodeon. Its sign was the traditional British Lion, but it seems to have lived on terms of amity with its peaceful neighbor. The tavern at length passed into the possession of the Handel and Haydn Society, and was devoted to tlie performance of oratorios. This society organized 30th March, 1815, and first met at Graupner's Hall, Franklin Street. The original number of members was thirty-one, and their first public performance was given in King's Chapel, Christmas evening, 1815, when selections from the Creation, Messiah, etc. were given in presence of an audience of upwards of a thousand persons. The Lion was, in 1789, called the Turk's Head. The Lion Tavern estate was called the Melodeon by the Handel and Haydn Society, in place of which we now have the splendid structure of the same name. The first Melodeon was occupied by Rev. Theodore Parker's society on Sundays. Both societies removed later to Music Hall in Winter Street. In 1835 the Lion Tavern became the property of ]\Ir. James Raymond, and was immediately transformed into an amphi- theatre, under the name of the Lion Theatre. It opened in January, 1836, with a comedy by Buckstone, supplemented by equestrian performances. Mr. J. B. Booth appeared at this theatre in May, 1836. It passed through varying fortunes until 1844, when, after it had been rechristened the Melodeon, Mr. Macready and Miss Cushman appeared here for a short season. Jenny Lind, Sontag, and Albohi, all gave concerts at the Melodeon. There seems to have been a time in the history of Boston when the settlers were called upon to wage a war of extermina- tion against a domestic enemy, one which they had undoubtedly brought among themselves. Our readers have heard of a bounty for the scalps of savages, wolves' ears, and bears' claws, but never perhaps of a price being set upon rats, as the folloAving FROM CHURCH GREEN TO LIBERTY TREE. 395 extract from the town records, selected from a number of the same description, will show was once the case : — " On the first day of January, 1743, the Selectmen gave a certifi- cate to the Province Treasurer, that they had paid out of the Town Stock to sundry persons for 9^80 Rats killed in or near the Town, since the last day of August, <£154. 13' 4*? old tenor — and desired him to pay the same to Joseph Wadsworth Esqr., Town Treasiu'er." 396 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTEE XIV. LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. Liberty Tree. — Its History. — Hanover Square. — Liberty Hall. — Hanging in Effigy. — Auchniuty's Lane. — The Old Suffolk Bench and Bar. — Boylston Market. — Charles Matthews. — James E. Murdoch. — Peggy Moore's. — Washington Bank. — Beacli Street Museum. — Essex Street. — Rainsford's Lane. — Harrison Avenue. — Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. — Gen- eral John Coffin. — Anecdote of Admiral Coffin. — Sir Thomas Aston Coffin. — Henry Bass. — Old Distill-houses. — Manufacture of Rum. — Gilbert Stuart, — Anecdotes of. — First Glass Works. — Disappearance of Trees. — Early Planting of Trees. — Sir Roger Hale Sheaife. — South Cove. — Hollis Street. — Colonel John Crane. — General Ebenezer Stevens. — Mather Byles, — Anecdotes of. — Hollis Street Church. — Fire of 1787. LAFAYETTE said, when in Boston, ''The world should never forget the spot where once stood Liberty Tree, so famous in your annals." It has been the care of David Sears that this injunction should not fall to the ground unheeded. In the wall of the building at the southeast corner of Essex Street, at its junction with Washington, we see a handsome freestone bas-relief, representing a tree with wide-spreading "branches. This memorial is placed directly over the spot where stood the famed Liberty Tree. An inscription informs us that it commemorates : — Liberty 1776 Law and Order Sons of Liberty 1766 Independence of their country 1776. The open space at the four corners of Washington, Essex, and Boylston Streets was once known as Hanover Square, from the royal house of Hanover, and sometiiAes as the Elm Neigh- borhood, from the magnificent elms with which it was environed. It was one of the finest of these that obtained the name of Lib- erty Tree, from its being used on the first occasion of resistance to the obnoxious Stamp Act. In 1774 this tree, with another, LIBERTY TREE AXD THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 397 stood m the enclosure of an old-fashioned dwelling at the his- toric corner; in 1766, when the repeal of the Stamp Act took place, a large copper plate was fastened to the tree inscribed in golden characters : — "This tree was planted in the year 1646, and pruned by order of the Sons of Liberty, Feb. 14th, 1766." In August, 1775, the name of Liberty having become offen- sive to the tories and their British allies, the tree was cut down by a party led by one Job Williams. " Armed with axes, they made a furious attack upon it. After a long speU of laughing and grinning, sweating, swearing, and foaming, with malice diabolical, they cut down a tree because it bore the name of Liberty." * Some idea of the size of the tree may be formed from the fact that it made fourteen cords of wood. The jesting at the expense of the Sons of Liberty had a sorry conclusion; one of the soldiers, in at- tempting to remove a limb, feU to the pavement and was killed. The ground immedi- ately about Liberty Tree was popularly known as Liberty Hall. In August, 1767, a flagstaff had been ' erected, which went through and extended above its highest branches. A flag foisted upon this staff was the signal for the assembling of the Sons of Liberty for action. Captain ^Mackintosh, the last captain of the Popes, was the first captain-general of Liberty Tree, and had charge of the illuminations, hanging of effigies, etc. * Essex Gazette, 1775. LIBERTY TRKE. 398 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. After the old war was over a liberty-pole was erected on the stump of the tree, the latter long serving as a point of direction known as Liberty Stump. A second pole was placed in posi- tion on the 2d July, 1826. It was intended to have been raised during the visit of Lafayette in 1825, and the following lines were written by Judge Dawes : — " Of high renown, here grew the Tree, The Elm so dear to Liberty ; Your sires, beneath its sacred shade, To Freedom early homage paid. Tliis day with filial awe suiTomid Its root, that sanctifies the ground. And by your fathers' spirits swear. The rights they left you '11 not impair. " Governor Bernard, writing to Lord Hillsborough undar date of June 18, 1768, gives the following account of Liberty Tree : — " Your Lordship must know that Liberty tree is a large old Elm in the High Street, upon which the effigies were hung in the time of the Stamp Act, and from whence the mobs at that time made their parades. It has since been adorned with an inscription, and has obtained the name of Liberty Tree, as the ground under it has that of Liberty Hall. In August last, just before the commencement of the present troubles, they erected a flagstaff, which went through the tree, and a good deal above the top of the tree. Upon this they hoist a flag as a signal for the Sons of Liberty, as they are called. I gave my Lord Shelburne an account of this erection at the time it was made. This tree has often put me in mind of Jack Cade's Oak of Eeformation." Liberty Tree Tavern in 1833 occupied the spot where once Liberty Tree stood. It was kept by GrCummings. In its im- mediate vicinity and opposite the Boylston Market was Lafay- ette Hotel, built in 1824, and kept by S. Haskell in the year above mentioned. • The Sons of Liberty adopted the name given them by Colonel Barr6 in a speech in Parliament, in which he took occasion thus to characterize those who evinced a disposition to resist the oppressive measures of the Ministry. Under the branches of Liberty Tree that resistance first showed itself by public acts. LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 399 At daybreak on the 14:th August, 1765, nearly ten years before active hostilities broke out, an effigy of Mr. Oliver, the Stamp officer, and a boot, with the Devil peeping out of it, — an allusion to Lord Bute, — were discovered hanging from Liberty Tree. The images remained hanging all day, and were visited by great numbers of people, both from the town and the neighboring country. Business was almost suspended. Lieutenant-Governor Hutchinson ordered the sheriff to take the figures down, but he was obliged to admit that he dared not do so. As the day closed in the effigies were taken down, placed upon a bier, and, followed by several thousand people of every class and condition, proceeded first to the Town House, and from thence to the supposed office of the Stamp jMaster, as has been detailed in that connection. With materials obtained from the ruins of the building, the procession moved to Fort Hill, where a bonfire was lighted and the effigies consumed in full view of Mr. Oliver's house. Governor Bernard and council were in session in the Town House when the procession passed through it, as the lower floor of the building left open for public promenade permitted them to do. In the attacks which fol- lowed upon the houses of the secretary, lieutenant-governor, and officers of the admiralty, IMackintosh appears to have been the leader. In these proceedings the records of the court of vice-admiralty were destroyed, — an irreparable loss to the prov- ince and to history. Mackintosh was arrested, but immediately released on the demand of a number of persons of character and property. Mr. Oliver now publicly declared his intention of resigning, and when the stamps arrived in Boston in September they were sent to Castle William. In November there Avas another hanfi- ing in effigy of two of the king's advisers. The anniversary of Pope Day was celebrated by a union of the rival factions, who met in amity and refreshed themselves under Liberty Tree before proceeding to Copp's Hill, as was customary. But the greatest act which occurred under this flimous tree was the public declaration of Secretary Oliver that he would not in any 400 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. way, by himself or by deputy, perform the duties of stamp master. The Secretary, desirous of less publicity, had requested that the ceremony might take place at the Town House, but the " Sons " had determined that the " Tree " was the proper place, and Mr. Oliver presented himself there. Besides this declaration, subscribed to before Eichard Dana, justice of the peace, Mr. Oliver fully recanted his sentiments in favor of the Stamp Act, and desired the people no longer to look upon him as an enemy, but as a friend, — a piece of duplicity fully exposed by the discovery of his correspondence on the subject. On the 14th February, 1766, the tree was pruned under the direction of skillful persons, and on the 20th the plate was attached. On this day the ceremony of burning stamped papers, and the effigies of Bute and Grenville, took place at the gallows on the Neck, the Sons returning to Hanover Square, where they drank his Majesty's health and other toasts expressive of their loyalty to the throne. From this time all measures of public concern were discussed by the Sons of Liberty under the umbrageous shelter of their adored tree. The affair of Hancock's sloop, the arrival of the troops, the Non-importation Act, each received the attention they merited. On the 14th August, 1769, anniversary of the first Stamp Act proceedings, and '' the day of the Union and firmly combined Association of the Sons of Liberty in this Province," there was a great assembly under Liberty Tree. Many came from great distances. Eeed and Dickinson (a brother of John Dickinson) were present from Philadelphia. Peyton Randolph was expected, but did not come. The British flag was hoisted over the tree, and, after drinking fourteen toasts, the meeting adjourned to Robinson's Tavern, Dorchester, known also as the sign of the Liberty Tree, where the day was passed in festivity and mirth. John Adams was present, and has left an account of the gathering, into which we should not have to look in vain for Samuel Adams, "Otis, and their com- patriots. After the establishment of the troops in Boston the necessity LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 401 for secrecy in tlieir movements compelled the patriots to resort to the clubs for conference. The tree, however, had borne its part in the acts preliminary to the great conflict which ensued, and to pilgrims to the shrines of American history the spot where it once stood must ever possess an interest second to no other in this historic city. *' The tree their own hands had to liberty reared They lived to beliold growing strong and revered ; With transport then cried, ' Now our wishes we gain, For our children shall gather the fruits of our pain. ' In freedom we 're born, and in freedom we 11 live ; Our purses are ready, — Steady, friends, steady ; — Not as slaves, but as freemen, our money we '11 give." • Samuel Adams, a namesake of the Eevolutionary patriot and an old resident of North End, had in his possession until his death, in 1855, a flag which was used on the liberty-pole prior to the Revolution, and which he displayed on jDublic occasions with great satisfaction. Some services which he per- formed on the patriots' side, in which he sustained losses, pro- cured him a small appropriation from the State. The hanging of efligies appears to have originated in England in 1763. This was at Honiton, in Devonshire, famous for its lace manufacture, two years before the exliibitions in Boston from the limbs of Liberty Tree. A tax having been levied upon cider, the efiigy of the minister concerned in it was sus- pended from an apple-tree that grew over the road, with the following lines affixed to it : — " Behold the man who made the yoke Which doth Old England's sons provoke, And now he hangs upon a tree. An emblem of our liberty." Essex Street was the line of division between old I^ewbury and Orange Streets. Newbury reached to Winter Street, while Orange conducted from the fortifications on the Xeck into town ; its name was no doubt given in honor of the Prince of Orange. Essex Street, which was named in 1708, was also called Auch- muty's Lane, for the family so distinguished in the history of the old Suff-olk Bar. 402 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. The elder Eobert Aucliinuty was a barrister during the ad- ministration of Belcher and Shirley, and in his latter years judge- advocate of the Court of Admiralty. The younger Auchmuty was judge of the same court when the Eevolution began. His associates at the bar were Eead, Pratt, Gridley, Trowbridge, Adams, Otis, the gifted Thacher, and the brilliant Quincy. He was born in Boston, and assisted Adams and Quincy in the defence of Captain Preston, for his participation in the massacre in King Street. His residence was in School Street, next the old Extinguisher Engine-house. A nephew, Sir Samuel Auchmuty, born in New York, fought against his countrymen in the service of King George. Benjamin Pratt, afterwards chief justice of New York, mar- ried a daughter of the old Judge Auchmuty. He was a small, thin man, and from the loss of a limb was obliged to use crutches. It was of him that John Adams said " that he had looked with wonder to see such a little body hung upon two sticks send forth such eloquence and displays of mind." Pratt's office was in the second house north of the corner of Court Street in Old Cornhill, where Gould and Lincoln's bookstore now is ; his country-seat was on Milton Hill. Oxenbridge Thacher's office was opposite the south door of the Old State House. Sampson Salter Blowers, eminent at the same bar, lived in Southack's Court (Howard Street). Gridley, with whom James Otis studied, lived in a house next north of Cornhill Square. John Adams's office was in a house next above William Minot's, which was on Court Street, opposite the Court House, where now stands Minot's Building. Eead built and lived in the house described as Mr. Minot's. Cazneau lived in a house next east of the Court House. Chief Justice Dana's father lived at the corner of Wilson's Lane. John Quincy Adams's office was in Court Street. Before the Eevolution eight dollars was the fee in an impor- tant cause, five dollars was the limit for a jury argument, two dollars for a continuance. Then the lawyers went the circuits with the judges. The courtesy and dignity which distinguished the intercourse between bench and bar did not continue under LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 403 the new order of things, if we may credit Fisher Ames, who, in aUusion to the austerity of the court, supposed to be Judge Paine, and the manners of the attorneys, remarked, that a lawyer should go into court with a club in one hand and a speaking-trumpet in the other. Chief Justice Parsons and Judge Sedgwick were the last barristers who sat upon the bench. Perez Morton and Judge Wetmore were the last sur- vivors who had attained the degree. Boylston Market, when opened to the public in 1810, was considered far out of town. It was named to honor the benev- olent and philanthropic Ward Mcholas Boylston, a descend- ant of that Dr. Zabdiel Boylston so famous in the history of inoculation. The parties interested in the movement met at the Exchange Coffee House on the 17th of January, 1809, when their arrangements were perfected. John Quincy Adams, who then lived in Boylston Street, was much interested in the new market, and made a brief address at the laying of the corner-stone. The building was designed by Bulfinch, and Mr. Boylston presented the clock. In 1870 the solid brick struc- ture Avas moved back from the street eleven feet without disturb- ing the occupants. Before the erection of this market-house, Faneuil Hall Market was the principal source of supply for the inhabitants of this remote quarter. Boylston Hall, over the market — which has also been known as Pantheon Hall and Adams Hall — is associated with a variety of musical, theatrical, and miscellaneous entertainments. It was occupied by the Handel and Haydn Society in 1817, the year after their incorporation, and used by them for their mu- sical exhibitions. In 1818 Incledon and Phillips,* the cele- brated vocalists, assisted at their performances. The celebrated Charles Matthews gave his "Trip to Paris " here in 1822, after the close of his engagement at the old theatre, as Mr. Clapp says, "to meet the wants of those holy puritans who would not visit the theatre to see an entertainment which they patro- nized in a hall." ^Ir. Buckingham, editor of the Galaxy, char- acterized the performance as low and vulgar, for whic^h and other strong expressions Matthews commenced an action for 404 LANDMAEKS OF BOSTON. damages ; the suit never came to trial. A theatre was also established here by Wyzeman Marshall, and the since much- admired and successful actor Murdoch conducted at one time a gymnasium and school of elocution in Boylston Hall. Added to these, it was used by several religious societies prior to its present occupation as an armory. Upon this spot once stood the tavern of " Peggy " Moore. The vicinity was the usual halting-place for the country people coming into town with their garden produce. Then ox-teams were the rule, few farmers having horses, and the neighbor- hood of Peggy Moore's was usually a scene of plenty and of jollity. From the shrewdness with which barter was carried on, the place was dubbed " shaving corner," and among the keen blades who trafficked on this exchange, none, it was said, excelled William Foster of the neighboring lane. Even the future President may have cheapened his joint here, or turned the scale in his favor by a call at Peggy Moore's. The Washington Bank was long located at the corner of Washington and Beach Streets, where its imposing granite front remained until the recent erection of the present build- ings. The bank was incorporated in 1825, with a capital of half a million. For a long time previous to its demolition the building was occupied as a furniture warehouse. In Beach Street was established the short-lived Dramatic Museum in 1848, in the budding now known as the Beach Street Market. We will enter upon Essex Street. A short walk brings us to Harrison Avenue, one of the new streets risen from the sea-shore. The beginning of this now handsome street, shaded for a considerable distance by trees, was in the portion from Essex Street to Beach, where it was arrested by the water. This was called Eainsford's Lane, until included in Front Street (Harrison Avenue) in 1825. The name was from Deacon Edward Rainsford, who took the oath of freeman in 1637, and was one of those disarmed in the Anne Hutchinson controversy. His tract was on the westerly side of Essex Street extending to the sea, and separated from Garrett Bourne on the west by his lane. LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 405 Harrison Avenue, which was built in 1806-07, and first named Front Street, extended from Beach Street to South Bos- ton bridge. Up to 1830 the docks and flats on the west side of this street -^vere not all tilled up. Its present name was given, in 18-41, in honor of General Harrison. A straight avenue, three fourths of a mile in length and seventy feet wide, was something unknown in Boston before this street was laid out. On the east side of Rainsford's Lane was the house in which were born Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin and his brother John, a major-general in the British army. Both were sons of Nathan- iel Coffin, Collector of his Majesty's Customs, and a firm loyalist. Sir Isaac was educated in the Boston schools, and entered the royal navy in 1773, just before the Revolution. John Coffin volunteered to accompany the royal army in the battle of Bunker Hill, and soon after obtained a commis- sion. He rose to the rank of captain, and went with the New York Volunteers to Georgia, in 1778. At the battle of Savan- nah, at Hobkirk's Hill, and at Cross Creek near Charleston, his conduct won the admiration of his superiors. At the battle of Eutaw his gallantry attracted the notice of General Greene. He was made colonel, 1797; major-general, 1803; general 1819. The old mansion of the Coffins was afterwards removed farther up Harrison Avenue. It was of wood, three stories high, with gambrel roof, and may still be seen by the curious on the east side of the street, standing at a little distance back with the end towards it. The following anecdote of Sir Isaac is authentic. "While in Boston once, the admiral stopped at the Tremont House, and, being very gouty, was confined to his room. At King's Chapel prayers were offered for his recovery, and after service was over a gentleman paid his respects to th6 distinguished visitor at his room, where he found him with his leg swathed in bandages, and in no conciliatory mood. His footman having accidentally run against his gouty foot, the admiral dis- charged a volley of oaths at his devoted head, following them with his crutch. The efficacy of the prayers may be doubted. 406 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Still another of tliis famous royalist family was destined to acquire rank and distinction in the British service. Sir Thomas Aston Coffin, Bart., was a son of Wilham Coffin of Boston, and cousin of Admiral Sir Isaac. All three of the distinguished Coffins were born in Boston, and bred in her public schools. Thomas was at one period private secretary to Sir Guy Carle- ton, and attained the rank of commissary-general in the Brit- ish army. He was a graduate of Harvard. The admiral ever retained an affectionate regard for his na- tive country. His family were descended from that tight little isle of Nantucket, where the name of the Coffins has been made famous in story for their exploits in the whale fishery. He gave evidence of his attachment by investing a large sum in the English funds for the benefit of the Coffin school on the island, of which fund the mayor and aldermen of Boston were made trustees for the distribution of the annual interest among five of the most deserving boys and as many girls of that school. Kext south of the little alley that divides Rainsford's Lane lived Henry Bass, one of the Tea Party, at whose house Sam- uel Adams and Major Melvill often passed a convivial evening and ate a Sunday dinner. Prior to 1793 tlie neighborhood of Essex and South Streets was largely occupied by distilleries. The oldest one is that now and for some time in possession of the French family, which appears to have been improved for that purpose as early as 1714 by Henry Hill, distiller, and by Thomas Hill after him. Besides this, there were Avery's and Haskins's distilleries, be- tween Essex and Beach Streets ; their vicinity marks the prox- imity of the shore. We have spoken elsewhere of the manufacture of rum in Boston. In 1794, when the town contained a little more than 18,000 inhabitants, there were no less than thirty distiU-houses. Twenty-seven were in operation in 1792, but the disturbances in the French West India Islands and the excise laid by Con- gress had diminished the number working to eighteen in the year first mentioned. Rum was only fourpence, and that from the West Indies but sixpence, a quart. LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 407 Gilbert Stuart lived and painted in 1828 in a modern three- story brick house, standing alone in Essex Street, numbered 59, near the opening of Edinboro. The latter is a modern thor- oughfare. Before removing to Essex Street, Stuart resided in Washington Place, Fort Hill, where he had a painting-room. He took up his permanent residence in Boston in 1806, and died here July 9, 1828. His two daughters, Mrs. Stebbins and Miss Jane Stuart, pursued their father's profession in Boston ; the latter still follows her art at Newport, R. I. Stuart, it is said, did not instruct his daughters as he might have done. Stuart was not particularly prepossessing in appearance, and was very careless in dress, but a man of great genius. His eye was very piercing, and photographed a subject or a sitter at a glance. He was easily offended, and would then destroy his works of great value. Having exhausted the patronage of Newport, Stuart went over to London, where he began to paint in 1781. He soon found himself without money and without friends in the great capital, and for some time played the organ at a church to secure the means of living. In this the knowledge of music cultivated in America stood him in good stead. He was a capital performer on the flute, and it is related by Trumbull that he passed his last night at Newport serenading the girls. His passion for music led him to neglect his art at this time, and some of his friends thought it necessary to advise him to go to work. To his musical genius he owed his bread in the swarming mlderness of London. Among the first patrons of Stuart were Lord St. Vincent, the Duke of Northumberland (Percy), and Colonel Barre, who, learning of his embarrassments, came into his room one morn- ing soon after he had set up an independent easel, locked the door, and made friendly offers of assistance. This the painter declined. They then said they would sit for their portraits, and insisted on paying half price in advance. This is Stuart's own relation. Stuart became a pupil of AVest at twenty-four, the latter having lent him a small sum and invited him to his studio. 408 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. He afterwards painted a full length of Ms old master. "While with West, Stuart often indulged of a morning in a bout with the foils with his master's son Kafe (Raphael West). He was surprised one morning by the old gentleman just as he had driven Rafe to the wall, with his back to one of his father's best pictures. " There, you dog," says Stuart, " there I have you, and nothing but your background relieves you." Stuart painted in London at John Palmer's, York Buildings. Stuart, while in Paris, painted Louis XVI. But his greatest work was the head of Washington, now in the Athenaeum Gal- lery. This portrait he ottered to the State of Massachusetts for one thousand dollars, but it was refused. It would now be a matter of difficulty to fix a price upon it. The head remained in Stuart's room until his widow found a purchaser for it. The first picture of Washington painted by Stuart was a failure, and he destroyed it, but he produced at the second trial a canvas that never can be surpassed. Of the works of the older painters there are said to be eleven of Smibert's and eighteen of Blackburn's now in Boston. The first glass-works in Boston were located in what is now Edinboro Street ; the company was established in 1787. The Legislature granted an exclusive right to the company to manu- facture for fifteen years, and exemption from all taxes for five years ; the workmen were relieved from military duty. The company first erected a brick building, conical in form, but this proving too small, it was taken down and replaced by a wooden one a hundred feet long by sixty in breadth. After many em- barrassments the company began the manufacture of window- glass in November, 1793. Samuel Gore was one of the originators of the enterprise, but the company failed to make the manufacture remunerative. In 1797 the works were con- trolled by Charles F. Kupfer, who continued to make window- glass. They were blown down in the great gale of 1815, and subsequently taking fire, were consumed. The manufacture of glass in Massachusetts was begun some time before the Revolution in a part of Braintree called Ger- mantown. Nothing but bottles, however, were produced here, LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 409 and the works failed before the commencement of the war. The house was hurnt down and never rebuilt. Opposite Oliver Place are two magnificent specimens of the American elm, standing in the pavement before two old-time brick houses. They are as large as those of the Tremont Street mall, and are thrifty and majestic. Time was when the trees were everywhere ; now they are indeed rare, and the places that once knew them "now know them no more." Formerly there were few, if any, situations in the town in which trees were not seen, but they are now fast following the old Bostonians who planted them or dwelt beneath their grateful shade. Fifty were removed at one time from Charles Street when the roadway was widened ; these were replanted on the Common. There were two noble elms at the corner of Congress and Water Streets forty years ago, scarcely exceeded in size by those of the malls. Bowdoin Square, the Coolidge, Bulfinch, and Parkman estates, were adorned with shade and fruit trees. Occasionally, during our pilgrimage, we have discovered some solitary tree in an unexpected place, but it only stands because its time has not yet come. " But rising from the dust of busy streets, These forest children gladden many hearts ; As some old friend their welcome presence greets The toil-worn soul, and fresher life imparts. Their shade is doubly grateful where it lies Above the glare which stifling walls throw back ; Tlirough quivering leaves we see the soft blue skies, Then happier tread the dull, imvaried track." We have remarked that the old peninsula was but thinly wooded, and the settlers soon began to plant trees, supplying themselves with wood from the islands for a time. We find by the records that the town took order as early as 1655 "to pre- vent the trees planted on the ISTeck from being spoiled." In March, 1695, it appears that several attempts had been made by Captain Samuel Sewall " to plant trees at the south end of the town for the shading of Wheeler's Point," and all others were prohibited from meddling with them. The trees on the Common and Liberty Tree were planted early. There was an 18 410 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. English elm on the Storer estate, Sudbiiry Street, which had few horizontal limbs, but which attained a very great height, the trunk being larger than those of Paddock's Mall. We have pointed to its fellow on West Street. Three English elms, thought to have been planted by some of the Oliver family early in the last century, stood on the edge of High Street, in what was Quincy Place, on the building of which they were levelled. They were of the size of those in Paddock's Mall. A fourth of the same species stood in solitary grandeur at the upper part of the lot on Fort Hill, for years denominated as Phillips's Pasture, which was the finest specimen of the English elm in the town. Having " amjDle room and verge enough," it extended its branches horizontally in every direction. Tliis must have corresponded nearly in age with those mentioned in High Street. In Essex Street was the cooper-shop of Samuel Peck, one of the Tea Party, whose two apprentices, Henry Purkett and Edward Dolbier, followed him to the scene of action at Griffin's Wharf. The visitor to this quarter will find, at the corner of Essex and Columbia Streets, an old wooden house, to which is ascribed the honor of being the residence for a time of the ubiquitous Earl Percy. It stands at a little distance back from Essex Street, on which it fronts. Built of wood, with gambrel roof, it did not differ materially from the neighboring struc- tures. According to Mr. Sabine, this was the residence of ^Irs. Sheaffe, whose son, Eoger Hale, became the protege of Percy, who took a great liking to him while lodging with his mother in this house. Under the protection of the Earl the young Bostonian advanced to the rank of lieutenant-general in the British army, and became a baronet. His principal military service seems to have been in Canada, though it was his wish not to have been employed against his native country. He took command at Queenstown after the fall of General Brock, and defended Little York (Toronto) from the attack of our forces under General Dearborn. He was also in the attack on LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 411 Copenhagen under Nelson in 1801, and saw service in Holland. Sir Eoger made several visits to his native town, and is repre- sented as a man of generous impulses, high-minded, and well worthy the interest of his noble friend and patron. The build- ing is of course much altered in its exterior aspect. The lower part of Essex Street brings us to the limit of the South Cove improvement in tliis du-ection, by which the an- cient sea-border was obliterated, and a territory nearly twice as large as the Common added to the area of Boston. Charles Ewer has been named as the projector of this enterprise, which reclaimed from tide-water that part of the South Cove from Essex Street to South Boston Bridge, and lying east of Harrison Avenue. Work was begun in 1833, a bonus of $ 75,000 being paid to the Boston and Worcester Eailroad Company to locate its depot within the cove forever. The railway purchased 138,000 feet of land for its purposes, and 48,000 were sold for the City, now the United States, Hotel. Another parcel of land was sold to the Seekonk Branch Eailroad Company. By 1857 the agent had acquired seventy-tliree acres' of land and flats ; seventy-seven acres in all were proposed to be reclaimed. The locomotives, cars, rails, etc. first used on the Worcester railroad were all of English make. The passenger carriages were shaped like an old-fashioned stage-coach, contained a dozen persons, and ran on single trucks. They bore little comparison, either in size, comfort, or adornment, to the luxurious vehicles now used on the same road. The freight cars, or vans, had frames, over which was drawn a canvas covering similar to those in use on the army baggage-wagon, so that when seen at a little distance a freight train did not look unlike a number of hay- stacks in motion across the fields. The first locomotive used on this road was brought over from England on the deck of a ship, and was with great difficulty landed and moved across the city from Long Wharf. It was called the Meteor. We will now transfer our readers to the vicinity of Hollis Street. Opposite the entrance to that avenue on Tremont Street is a collection of old wooden buildings, whose antiquity is vouched for by their extreme dilapidation. Patches of the 412 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. roof seem returning to their native earth, and the crazy struc- tures appear to have outHved their day and generation. Here was the dwelUng and carpenter-shop of Colonel John Crane, who came so near meeting his death in the hold of the tea-ship. The shop is still used by mechanics of the same craft. Crane, after the construction of the fortifications on the ]S^eck, commanded that post, being then major of a regiment of artillery, of which the Boston company formed the nucleus. He became an expert marksman, and was considered the most skilful in the regiment. It is related that one day, as he sighted a gun bearing upon Boston, he intended to hit the house of Dr. Byles, a tory neighbor of his, who lived next door. The shot, however, passed over the doctor's house, and tore away his own ridgepole. Crane was wounded in IS^ew York in 1776 ; he was in Sulli- van's expedition to Ehode Island in 1778, and succeeded Knox in the command of the Massachusetts artillery. His services were higlily valued by the commander-in-chief, who retained him near his headquarters. Colonel Crane was a Bostonian by birth. Mather Byles lived in an old two-story Avooden house, with gambrel roof, situated just at the commencement of the bend or turn of Tremont Street ; so that when that street was ex- tended, it cut off a part of the southeast side of the house. What is now called Common Street is a part of old Nassau Street, which commenced at Boylston and ended at Orange, now Washington Street. Tremont Street was opened through to Roxbury line in 1832. At one time that part from Boylston to Common was called Holyoke Street. Rev. Mather Byles, the first pastor of Hollis Street Church, came on his mother's side from the stock of those old Puritan divines, John Cotton and Richard Mather. He was by birth a Bostonian, having first seen the light in 1706, and died, an octogenarian, in his native town in 1788. He was evidently l")opular with his parish, as he continued his ministrations for more than forty years, until his tory proclivities caused a sepa- ration from his flock. After the name of tory came to have a LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 413 peculiar significance, Mather Byles's associations seem to Lave been almost altogether with that side. He was a warm friend of Hutchinson and other of the crown officers, but remained in Boston after the adherents of the royal cause had generally left the town. " In 1777 he was denounced in town-meeting, and, having been by a subsequent trial pronounced guilty of attachment to the Royal cause, was sentenced to continenient, and to be sent with his family to England. This doom of banishment was never enforced, and he was permitted to remain in Boston. He died in 1788, aged eighty- two years. He was a scholar, and Pope, Lansdowne, and Watts were his correspondents." * Many anecdotes are recorded of this witty divine. On one occasion, when a sentinel was placed before his door, he per- suaded him to go an errand for him, and gravely mounted guard over his own house, with a musket on his shoulder, to the amusement of the passers-by. Dr. Byles j^aid his addresses unsuccessfully to a lady who afterwards married a Mr. Quincy. " So, madam," said the Doctor on meeting her, " you prefer a Quincy to Byles, it seems." The reply was, " Yes ; for if there had been anything worse than biles, God would have afflicted Job with them." His two daughters, whose peculiarities were scarcely less marked than those of their father, continued to reside in the old homestead. They remained violent tories until their death, though they were very poor and somewhat dependent upon the benevolence of Trinity Church parish. The following anecdotes of Rev. Mather Byles illustrate his pecidiar propensity. Just before the Revolution, Isaiah Thomas, author of the History of Printing, paid a visit to the Rev. Dr. B., and was taken by him to an upper window, or observatory as the Doctor called it, from which there was a fine prospect. " ]S"ow," said Dr. Byles to his companion, " you can ohserve-a-tory" At another time, when Dr. Byles was bowed with the infirmities of years. Dr. Harris, of Dorchester, called upon him, and found him sitting in an arm-chair. " Doctor," said the aged punster, " you will excuse my rising ; I am not one of the rising gener- * Sabine's Loyalists. 414 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. ation," In his last illness lie was visited by Rev. "William Montague, rector of Christ Church, and Eev. Dr. Parker, rector of Trinity. Dr. Parker approached the sick man's bed- side, and asked him how he felt. '' I feel," said the inveterate joker, " that I am going where there are no bishops." The two following verses, addressed to Dr. Byles, are from a poetical description of the Boston clergy, which appeared about 1774. It contained thirty-seven stanzas, and was the rage of the town. Green, Trumbull, Dr. Church, and Dexter of Ded- ham were all cliarged with the authorship. ■ ** There 's punning Byles, provokes our smiles, A man of stately parts ; Who visits folks to crack his jokes, That never mend their hearts. " With strutting gait and wig so great, He walks along the streets, And throws out wit, or what 's like it, To every one he meets. " The original name of Hollis Street was Harvard. Street and church were named for Thomas Hollis, an eminent Lon- don merchant, and benefactor of Harvard College. Hollis Street appears on a map of 1775, continued in a straight line to Cambridge (Back) Bay. The growth of this part of Boston had, by 1730, called for a place of worship nearer than Sum- mer Street. Governor Belcher, who was then a resident in the vicinity, gave the land for a site, and a small wooden meeting-house, thirty by forty feet, was erected in 1732. The first minister was Rev. Mather Byles. A bell weighing 800 pounds was given by a nephew of the Thomas Hollis for whom the church was named, and was placed in the steeple on its arrival. This bell began the joyful peal at one o'clock on the morning of the 19th of May, 1766, as nearest to Liberty Tree, and was answered by Christ Church from the other extremity of the town, announcing the Stamp Act Repeal. The steeples were hung with flags, and Liberty Tree decorated with banners. The church was destroyed by the great fire of 1787, but the society, nothing daunted, reared another wooden edifice in the LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 415 year following, of wliicli we present an engraving. It was erected upon the same spot as the former church, but had. un- like it, two towers instead of a steeple. Charles Bulfinch was the architect, and Josiah AVheeler the builder. This building was removed in 1810, to give place to the present edifice, and was floated on a raft down tlie harbor to East Braintree, where Eev. Jonas Perkins preached in it forty-seven years. Though recently re- arranged, it remains substan- tially the same as wlien it was one of the chief orna- ments of the town of Boston. HOLLIS STREET CHURCH. The steeple of Hollis Street reaches an altitude of nearly two hundred feet, and is one of the most prominent objects seen from the harbor. This is the church of West, Holley, Pierpont, and Starr King. Singularly enough, the church has lost by death, while in the service of the church, but a single one of its pastors (Dr. Samuel West) since its organization. Eev. John Pierpont, one of our native poets, was first a lawyer, and then a merchant. In the late civil war, though past his " threescore and ten," he joined a Massachusetts regiment as chaplain. He died at Medford, in 1866, while holding a clerk- ship in the Treasury Department at Washington. Thomas Starr King was but twenty-four when he assumed the pastorate of Hollis Street, and after twelve years of service removed to San Francisco, where he bore a prominent part in arraying Cali- fornia in active sympathy with the North during the civil war. A number of works have emanated from the pen of this gifted and lamented author and divine, of which the White Hills is perhaps the best known, and most enjoyable. It is a singular fact that in only two instances the (Han- over Street IMethodist and Hollis Street) have three churches been erected on the same spot in Boston. The New Xorth, Old South, Brattle Square, Bromfield Street, Bulfmch Street, 416 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. West, Baldwin Place, Phillips, Maverick, and Trinity churclies, Baptist Bethel, and King's Chapel, are the second edifices on the same site. Zachariah TVHiitman, in his History of the Ancient and Hon- orable Artillery, says, — " The erection of pews on the ground-floor of meeting-houses was a New England invention. Some of the first meeting-houses in Boston that had pews had no broad or other aisle, but were entered from without by a door, the owner keeping the key." The tablets in Hollis Street Church bearing the Ten Com- mandments were the gift of Benjamin Bussey. The terrible fire of 1787 laid waste the whole of the region around Hollis Street. It commenced in William Patten's malt- house in Beach Street, extending with great rapidity in a southerly direction. The spire of Hollis Street Church soon took fire from the burning flakes carried through the air, and the church was burnt to the ground. Both sides of Washing- ton Street, from Eliot to Common on the west, and from Beach to a point opposite Common Street on the east, were laid in ruins. This fire cost the town a hundred houses, of which sixty were dwellings. Subscriptions were set on foot for the sufferers, and the Marquis Lafayette, with characteristic gener- osity, gave £ 350 sterling towards the relief of the sufterers. The British, it is said, on their retreat from the works on the Neck left a rear-guard at Hollis Street, who had orders, if the Americans broke through the tacit convention between Wash- ington and How^e, to fire a train laid to Hollis Street Church, which had served them as a barrack. This guard, after remain- ing a short time at their post, took to their heels, and scampered off under the impression that the Yankees were close upon them. We conclude our chapter with a visit to another poet, Charles Sprague, now in his eighty-first year, who resides, in the evening of his life, at No. 636, on the east side of Wash- ington Street, in a substantial old-fashioned house. It has been stated that the oration which Mr. Sprague de- livered July 4th, 1825, before the city authorities was afterwards LIBERTY TREE AND THE NEIGHBORHOOD. 417 effectively used on a similar occasion as an original production by a Western Cicero, who might have worn his laurels undis- covered had he not in an unguarded moment furnished a copy for the press. Mr. Sprague went to the Franklin School when Lemuel Shaw, the late Chief Justice, was usher there. He became con- nected with the State Bank in 1820, and subsequently cashier of the Globe when that bank was organized. His first poetical essay, by which his name came before the public, was a prize prologue, delivered at the opening of the Park Theatre, New York, of which the following is an extract : — " The Stage ! where Fancy sits, creative qiieen. And waves her sceptre o'er life's mimic scene ; Where young-eyed Wonder comes to feast his sight, And quaff instruction while he drinks delight. The Stage ! that threads each labyrinth of the soul, Wakes laughter's peal, and bids the tear-drop roll ; That shoots at Folly, mocks proud Fashion's slave, Uncloaks the hypocrite, and brands the knave." 18* 418 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. CHAPTEE XV. THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. The Neck described, — Measures to protect the Road. — Paving the Neck. — Henry T. Tuckerman. — Old Houses vs. Modern. —Massachusetts Mint. — The Gallows. — Anecdote of Warren. — Executions. — Early Fortifica- tions. — The British Works and Armament. — American Works. — George Tavern. — Wasliington's Staff. — His Personal Traits. — Washington House. — Washington Hotel. — Anecdotes of George Tavern. — Scarcity of Powder. — Continental Flags, — Entry of Washington's Army. -^ Entry of Rochambeau's Army. — Paul Jones. WE have conducted the reader through all of Colonial Boston embraced within the peninsula, and are now to survey the barrier which the colonists raised against the power of the mighty British Empire. The more we examine the resources and state of preparation of the people, the more we are astonished at the hardihood with which a mere collection of the yeomanry of the country, without any pretension to the name of an army, sat down before the gates of the town of Boston, and compelled the haughty Britons to retire from her profaned temples and ruined hearthstones. A strip of territory lying along the great avenue to the main- land still retains the appellation of *' The ISTeck." Long may the only battle-ground within our ancient limits preserve the name by which it was known to Wintln^op and to Washington. All Boston proper was once styled " The Neck," in distinction from Noddle's Island, Brookline, and other territory included within the jurisdiction. The peninsula outgrowing her de- pendencies, the name attached itself to the narrow isthmus connecting with the mainland. The Neck may be said to have begun at Beach Street, where was its greatest breadth, diminishing to its narrowest point at Dover Street, increasing gradually in width to the neighborhood THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 419 of JOecIham Street, thence expanding in greater proportion to the Hne at the. present car stables nearly opposite Metropolitan Place. The Neck, according to its designation in Revolution- ary times, was that part lying south of Dover Street. Captain Nathaniel Uring, in his account of his visit to Bos- ton in 1710, printed in London in 1726, says : — " The Neck of Land betwixt the city and country is about forty yards broad, and so low that the spring tides sometimes wash the road, which might, with little charge, be made so strong as not to be forced, there being no way of coming at it by land but over that Neck." Whether what constituted old Boston was at one time an island, or was becoming one by the wasting forces of the ele- ments, is an interesting question for geologists. We know that for nearly a hundred and fifty years scarcely any change had taken place in the appearance of the Neck ; but the action, of the town authorities seems to indicate a fear that its existence was seriously threatened. Within the recollection of persons now living the water has been known to stand up to the knees of horses in the season of full tides at some places in the road, on the Neck. The narrowest part was naturally the most exposed, as it was the most eligible also for fortifying. At some points along the beach there was a good depth of water, and Gibben's shipyard was located on the easterly side a short distance north of Dover Street as early as 1722, and as late as 1777. Other portions, on both sides of the Neck, were bordered by marshes, more or less extensive, covered at high tides. AVharves were built at intervals along the eastern shore, from Beach to Dover Street. In front of these wharves dwell-. ings and stores were erected, facing what is now Washington Street. Josiah Knapp's dwelling, recently removed from the corner of Kneeland Street, was one of these, his wharf being so near the street that the passers-by complained that the bow- sprits of his vessels unlading there obstructed the higliway. In the spring the road upon the Neck was almost impassable, especially before the centre was paved, which was from neces- 420 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. sity done at last, but with such large stones that the pavement was always avoided by vehicles as long as the old road was practicable. Measures began to be very early considered to protect the Neck from the violence of the sea. In 1 708 the town granted a number of individuals all the tract included within Castle and a point a little north of Dover Street, conditioned upon the completion of a highway and erection of certain barriers to "secure and keep off the sea." A second grant was made nearly eighty years later for a like purpose, extending from the hmits of the first grant to a point a little beyond the former estate of John D. Williams, Esq., where the Cathedral now stands. From this beginning dates the reclamation of that extensive area now covered in every direction with superb public edifices or private mansions. A dike was built on the exposed eastward side, crossing the marshes to the firm ground on the Eoxbury shore, before the Eevolution, which traversed both the British and American works on the Neck. This followed in general direction the extension of Harrison Avenue. A sea-wall was built about the same time on the west side, for some distance south from the bridge at Dover Street, nearly as far as Waltham Street. In a word, the general appearance of the Neck sixty years ago, to a spectator placed at the Old Fortifications, was similar to the turnpikes crossing the Lynn marshes to-day, and was deso- late and forbidding in the extreme, especially to a nocturnal traveller. From the old fortifications, northwardly, the highway was called Orange Street as early as 1 708. Washington Street was named after the memorable visit of the General in 1789, and at first extended only from near Dover Street to Eoxbury line ; the name was not applied to the whole extent of the present thoroughfare until 1824, when Cornhill, Marlborough, New- bury, and Orange became one in name as well as in fact. Few of the thousands who daily traverse the Neck, with its street-cars, omnibuses, and private equipages following each other in rapid succession, can realize that travellers were once THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 421 in great clanger of losing their way along the narrow natural causeway and its adjacent marshes. Yet so frec^uent had such accidents become that not only the town but the General Court took action in 1723 to have the dangerous road fenced in. The Xeck marshes were a favorite resort for birds, and were much frequented by sportsmen. It is related that Sir Charles and Lady Frankland one day narrowly escaped being shot as they were passing over the highway. In 1785 the town of Eoxbury was obliged to place sentinels here to prevent the desecration of the Sabbath. The meadows continued in much later times to be a resort for this purpose. The Neck was paved quite early in the last century, accord- ing to the fashion we have described elsewhere. In 1757 the General Court authorized a lottery to raise funds for paving and repairing the highway. The forty-two rods of Orange Street, mentioned as having been ordered paved in 1715, were probably the portion nearest the town, but it was paved in 1775 as far as the British works. The whole Neck was paved under the mayoralty of Josiah Quincy. In colonial times the fortification which was raised a little south of Dover Street was the limit of the town, — all beyond was nearly in its primitive condition. In 1794 there Avere but eighteen buildings between Dover Street and the line. In 1800 there were not more than one or two houses from the site of the new Catholic Cathedral to Roxbury. The few buildings standing between the American and British lines were burnt during the siege, and only two barns and three small houses were then left on what was properly termed the Xeck. A few doors north of Dover Street, on the easterly side of wdiat was then old Orange Street, w^is the home of the favorite author and poet, Henry T. Tuckerman. The house was struck during the siege by a shot from the American lines. jNIr. Tuck- erman has contributed largely to our literature both in verse and prose, as an essayist, critic, biographer, and accomplished traveller. He was also well known through his articles in our leading magazines. As a poet, his " Eome " gives a good sam- ple of his style. 422 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. " A terrace lifts above the People's Square Its colonnade ; About it lies the wami and crystal air. And fir-trees' shade." This house, hke most of those on our main avenue in the beginning of the century, stood end to the street, which gave a singular impression to a stranger, and recalls the following quaint description of Albany by old Jedediah Morse, which has given rise to a witticism on the peculiarity of the inhabi- tants of that town : — " This city and suburbs, by enumeration in 1797, contained 1,263 buildings, of which 863 were dwelling-houses, aud 6,021 inhabitants. Many of them are in the Gothic style, with the gable end to the street, which custom the first settlers brought from Holland ; the new houses are built in the modern style." The only purpose of utility for which the T^eck was formerly used, except perhaps the grazing afforded by the marshes along the causeway, was for brick- making. There were brickyards north of Dover Street, as well as south, j3efore the Eevolution. These gave employment to many poor people during the con- tinuance of the Port Act. In this connection we may mention the total absence of building-stone of any kind on the site of original Boston. The principal elevations have been either wholly or partially removed without encountering a ledge of any description. In October, 1786, the State of Massachusetts, being greatly in want of a specie currency, passed an act to establish a mint for tlie coinage of copper, silver, and gold. This was one of the powers of sover- eignty whicli the States continued to exercise under the old "Arti- cles of Confed- eration. MAoSACHUSETTS CENT OF 1787. Joshua Wetherle was appointed master of the mint THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 428 in INIay, 1787, and authorized to erect the necessary works and machinery. $70,000 in cents and half-cents were ordered to be struck as soon as practicable. Wetherle established his works on the IS'eck, in the rear of what is now Eollins Street, and at Dedham, the copper being first carted to Dedham to be rolled, and then brought back to Boston to be coined. In July, 1787, the national government established the devices of its copper coin. Early in 1788 the copper coin ordered by the State began to be issued, but only a few thousand dollars of the large amount ordered were put in circulation before the work was suspended by the State in consequence of the adoption of the Federal Constitution, which reserved the right to coin money to the general government. The emblems on the ^lassachusetts cent and half-cent were the same. One side bore the American eagle with a bundle of arrows in the right talon and an olive- branch in the left, with a shield on the breast, on which is the word " cent " ; the word " Massachusetts " encircling the bor- der. The reverse represents a full-length Indian grasping liis bow and arrow, but, as jNIr. Felt remarks, considerably imj^roved in appearance since he appeared on the colony seal. A star appears near the head, as in the State seal, emblematic of one of the United States, and the word " Commonwealth " com- pletes the device. The first object which arrested the attention of the traveller as he journeyed towards Old Boston was the gallows, standing as a monument of civilization at the gates. It was at first situated near the old fortification on the easterly side of the ^eck, but stood at a later period not far from the site of the St. James Hotel. A characteristic anecdote is related of Dr. AVarren in connec- tion with the gallows. It is said that as he was one day passing the spot he met some British officers, one of whom exclaimed, " Go on, Warren, you will soon come to the gallows." Warren immediately turned back and demanded to know which of them had thus accosted him, but neither of the warriors had the courage to avow it. 424 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. Here were hanged the pirates John Williams, Francis Fred- erick, John P. Eog, and Niles Peterson, in 1819 ; and in the following year Michael Powers was also executed for the mur- der of Timothy Kennedy. Perez Morton was then district- attorney. Powers was defended by Daniel Webster, but was convicted, on an unbroken chain of circumstantial evidence, of having murdered and then buried his victim in a cellar. The defences of Boston very early engaged the attention of the settlers. Fort Hill was fortified as early as 1634, and steps were taken to build a work on Castle Island in the same year. It is reasonable to conclude that the protection of the land side received even earlier attention, the danger being more imminent. The Indians in the neighborhood were, as a general thing, friendly, but were not trusted, and a guard of an officer and six men was placed on the Neck, by order of the court, in April, 1631. We cannot, however, fix the date with precision, though a barrier was certainly erected prior to 1640. The gates of the old fortification were constantly guarded, and were shut by a certain hour in the evening, after which none were allowed to pass in or out. The primitive barrier had disappeared before 1710, the broken power of the Indians leaving nothing to apprehend from that quarter. In this year the town voted that a line of defence be forthwith made across the Neck, between Boston and Roxbury. A suitable number of great guns were ordered to be mounted, and a gate erected across the road. The foun- dation of this work was of stone and brick, with parapet of earth ; part of what was considered to be the remains of the old fort was uncovered in 1860, when excavations were making in the street, just south of Williams Market. In September, 1774, when matters were approaching a crisis between the people and the King's troops, Gage began to fortify the Neck. The remains of the old works were strengthened, guns mounted, and earthworks thrown up some distance in advance of these on both sides of the highway. The armament at first consisted of two twenty-four and eight nine pounders. The first troops stationed by Gage in this quarter were the THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 425 59tli regiment, which arrived from Salem September 2, and encamped on the JN'eck. On the 4th four pieces of held artil- lery were taken from the Common and placed in front of the troops, fiitigue parties from which went to work upon the in- trenchments. By midwinter the ordinary garrison was one hundred and fifty men, with a field-officer in command. This force was increased before the battle of Lexington to three hundred and forty men. A deep fosse, into which the tide flowed at high water, was dug in front of the Dover Street fort, converting Boston for the time into two islands. In July, 1775, when the siege had fairly begun, the work nearest the town mounted eight twenty-four, six twelve, two nine, and seven six pounder guns, and was called during the siege " The Green Store Battery," from the warehouse of Deacon Brown, painted that color, which stood on the site of the Williams Market. The advanced work, which was much the stronger, mounted eight twenty-four, four twelve, one nine, and seven six pounders, with six eight-inch howitzers, and a mortar battery. The road passed directly through the centre of both lines, the first being closed by a gate and draw- bridge. The redan was flanked by a bastion on each side of the highway, from which the lines were continued across the intervening marshes to the sea. Floating batteries, abattis, trous-de-loup, and other appliances known to military science, were not wanting. Two guard -houses were on either side of the road immediately in the rear of the advanced post, while a third and smaller work, lying between the others on the eastern sea-margin, bore on Dorchester Xeck, and took the left curtain and bastion of the main work in reverse. Above all waved the standard of England. BRITISH LINES ON BOSTON NECK IN 1775. The position of the main British work, vestiges of which were distinctly visible as late as 1822, particularly on the west 426 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. side of the Xeck, was between Dedliam and Canton Streets. Mounds, ramparts, and wide ditches yet attested the strength of the defences which Washington deemed too formidable to be carried by assault. Eemains of planks and poles used to support the embankment of what may have been one of the bastions were discovered many years since in digging the cellar of Edward D. Peters's house on the north corner of Canton and Washington Streets. Mr. John Griggs, whose recollections of the Neck go back more than half a century, remembers traces of the intrenchments on the east side, where we have located them. The visitor to the spot will not fail to observe that from this point the first unobstructed view is obtained in front as far as Washington Market. By Washington's order Colonel Gridley rendered these works useless as soon as the Continental army moved to New York, so that if the enemy, whose fleet was still on the coast, should suddenly repossess themselves of Boston, they might not find the old defences available. From this stronghold Gage, Howe, Clinton, and Burgoyne grimly marked the rising intrenchments of the Americans three quarters of a mile away, or listened to the roll of the drums that greeted the approach of their chief- tain as he made his daily tour of the hostile lines. Gage at one time appears to have intrusted the defence of his lines on the Neck to Lord Percy. Colonel Trumbull, afterwards one of Washington's military family, but then belonging to a Connecticut regiment, first brought himself to the notice of the general by a daring ex- ploit. Learning that a plan of the enemy's works was greatly desired at headquarters, he crept near enough to them to make a drawing, with which he returned to camp. For this act he was appointed aide-de-camp. A British soldier of artillery soon after came into the American lines with a plan of the hostile forts. From the time of the investment Tintil the siege was raised, rigid martial law prevailed in Boston, with sentinels posted at all important points, patrols traversing the streets, and a town major at the head of police affairs. Here Gage remained ignobly shut up, attempting nothing THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 427 after the battle of Bunker Hill but a few marauding excursions along the coast in search of fresh provisions. His extremities are ludicrously set forth by that inimitable Revolutionary poet, Philip Freneau. The scene is a midnight consultation at the general's quarters. " The clock strikes two ! — Gage smote upon his breast, And cry'd, — ' What fate determines must be best — But now attend — a counsel I impart That long has laid the heaviest at my heart — Three weeks — ye gods ! nay, three long years it seems — Since roast-beef I have touch'd, except in dreams. In sleep, choice dishes to my view repair ; Waking, I gape and champ the empty air, — ■ Say, is it just that I, who rule these bands, Should live on husks, like rakes in foreign lands ? " The space between the opposing works became a battle- ground for the skirmishing parties of the two armies, each of which had pickets in their front, covered by slight intrench- ments. A short distance in advance of the British works on the west side of the highway were the house and barns of a Mr. Brown, which served the British admirably as a post from which to annoy our men. This was the house at which Bur- goyne proposed to meet Charles Lee, to discuss the differences between the colonies and the mother countr}^ Congress, how- ever, put a veto on a proceeding neither military nor diplo- matic. On the 8th of July (1775) Majors Tupper and Crane surprised the guard and destroyed the house and out-bidldings. The bare chimneys remained standing, and to some extent af- forded a protection to the enemy. After the battle of Lexington the Americans at first merely guarded the passage of the Xeck with a small force under Colonel Robinson, or until the Provincial Congress took meas- ures to organize an army, and regular military operations were undertaken. No intrenchments apjiear to have been thrown up on the Neck by the Continental forces until after the battle of Bun- ker Hill, when the famous Roxbury lines were laid out by Colonel Richard Gridley, the veteran of Louisburg, Quebec, and Bunker Hill, now chief-engineer of the army. 428 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. From the best evidence to be obtained these lines were situated on the rising ground a little north of the old monu- ment on the line of division between Boston and Roxbury, and near Clifton Place. An abattis was formed of trees felled with the tops pointed towards Boston, as an obstacle to the much- dreaded Light Horse, — a needless precaution, for this choice band of heroes never appeared outside their defences. The embankments were strengthened with planks filled between with earth. The works were bastioned, and rested with either flank on arms of the sea. The American advanced post was first at the George Tavern, which stood a little south of the site of the present Washington Market, and was burnt by a British sally on the night of Sun- day, July 30, 1775. The George Tavern, sometimes called the St. George, which we have had occasion to mention in connection with the recep- tions of some of the royal governors, was included in an estate of more than eighteen acres, extending nearly or quite to Rox- bury line on the south and across the marshes to the great creek, which formed its boundary on the west. It had or- chards, gardens, and a site which commanded a vieAv of the town of Boston and the harbor on one hand, and Cambridge Bay with the shores of the mainland on the other. While it re- mained, but few travellers might venture over the gloomy Neck, over which the cold winds swept with violence, without a pause under its hospitable roof. The George is noted in the history of the Colony as the place of meeting of the General Court in 1721, perhaps on account of the prevalence of the small-pox in Boston in that year, when it raged with frightful violence. In 1730, while it was kept by Simon Rogers, the Probate Court was held there. Rogers continued to be landlord until 1734. It was kept at different times by Gideon Gardner and Samuel Mears, and in 1769 by Edward Bardin, Mdio changed the name to the King's Arms, a title it retained but a short time. In 1 788 a tavern was reopened on or near the site of the George, but was not of long continuance. THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 429 Before the destruction of the tavern the Americans threw up a work a Httle below where it had stood, and witliin musket- range of the British outpost. To this point it was Washington's daily custom to proceed, accompanied by his personal staff, com- posed of men subsequently famous in Revolutionary annals. There ^svas Mifflin, tirst aide-de-camp, afterwards governor of Pennsylvania, Avho, as president of the Congress in 1783, re- ceived the resignation of his old chief; Joseph Reed of Phila- delphia, his trusted friend and secretary ; and Horatio Gates, whose military experience enabled him to fill acceptably the arduous post of adjutant-general, and bring a little order out of the chaos that prevailed in the American camp. General Washington's uniform at this time was " a blue coat Tvdth buff-colored facings, a rich epaulet on each shoulder, buff under-dress, and an elegant small-sword ; a black cockade in his hat." "* It was at this point, from which he had, in 1775, daily viewed the inactivity of his enemy with a surprise he has not concealed in his letters, that the general, in 1789, then become President, mounted his famous white charger, a present from Charles IV. of Spain, and, attended by his secretaries. Colonel Lear and Major Jackson, made his last entry into Bos- ton. Probably no great personage has ever lived whose career has afforded fewer anecdotes to his biographer then General Wash- ington. The calm dignity of his manner repelled every at- tempt at familiarity, but this dignity w^as in no way associated with hauteur. It is related that Gouverneur Morris, having undertaken once the hazardous experiment of accosting the President unceremoniously, declared that nothing would induce him to repeat the attempt. The French officers who served with Rochambeau were at once captivated by Washington's noble presence and gracious manner. The Washington Market stands on the site of the Washing- ton House, in which Mrs. Rowson once kept her school for young ladies, and which, under the control of the Cooleys, father and son, became a much-frequented resort for sleighing- * Thacher's Military Journal. 430 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. parties, when the ISTeck was the course to which, in winter, the beauty and fashion of the town repaired. Next south of the market is a three-story brick building, kept as a tavern as far back as 1820, and known first as Wash- ington Hall, and subsequently as the Washington Hotel. It was kept in 1837, and for some time subsequently, by Amherst Eaton of Concert Hall. Both of these houses were on the George Tavern estate. In 1737 the following petition was presented by Stephen Minot to be allowed a license to sell liquors at his tavern on the Neck (supposed to be the George Tavern). It was allowed. " That your petitioner lately met with very heavy losses by the way of the sea it stands him in stead to put his estate on the land to the best improvement he possibly can in a way of Trade &c. And as he designs to keep for sale a variety of goods suitable for the country, So he apprehends it will but little avail him unless he may be permitted to supply his customers with Rum also, because they usually chuse to take up all they want at one place." Thacher, who was a surgeon of Colonel Jackson's regiment in the old war, relates an amusing incident of the arrival of that regiment at Boston after a forced march from Providence, E. I. : — " A severe rain all night did not much impede our march, but the troops were broken down with fatigue. We reached Boston at sun- rising, and near the entrance of the Neck is a tavern, having for its sign a representation of a globe, with a man in the act of struggling to get through it ; his head and shoulders were out, his arms ex- tended, and the rest of his body enclosed in the globe. On a label from his mouth was written, ' Oh ! how shall I get through this world 1 ' This was read by the soldiers, and one of them exclaimed, 'List, d — n you, list, and you will soon get through this world ; our regiment will be through it in an hour or two if we don't halt by the way.' " The scarcity of powder within the American lines during the siege of Boston is connected with an incident not without interest. At first, a few country people were allowed to pass into town with provisions, after , undergoing a search at the British post at the Green Store. Market-wagons were but little THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 431 used, the farmers riding on horseback with panniers containing their marketing. George Minot, of Dorchester, from his fre- quent visits was well known to the guard, who allowed him to pass without examination. Had they looked into the honest man's panniers, they would have found them well filled with " villanous saltpetre," which he was, at great personal risk, conveying to his friends. The money to buy the powder was furnislied by IMinot's father, John ]\Iinot, a selectman of Dor- chester. The government afterwards acknowledged and paid the claim, with which Minot jDurchased a part of Thompson's Island. It is a matter of history that, within musket-shot of twenty British regiments, Washington's whole army was disbanded and reorganized; it is no less true that in August, 1775, the entire supply of powder was only nine rounds per man. Wash- ington's letters at this time are fidl of anxiety. The flags used by the Americans during the siege of Boston have always been a subject of much interest. The flag of thir- teen stripes was first raised on the heights near Boston, prob- ably at or near the commander-in-chief's headquarters, January 2, 1776. Letters from Boston at this time say that the regidars did not understand it ; and, as the king's speech had just been sent to the Americans, they thought the new flag was a token of submission. The British Annual Eegister of 1776 says, more correctly, that the provincials burnt the king's speech, and changed their colors from the plain red ground they had hith- erto used to a flag with thirteen stripes, as a symbol of the number and union of tlie colonies. This was, without doubt, the flag that, on the 17th IVIarch, 1776, waved over the Old State House and Province House, and was borne in the van of the American troops. The Pine Tree, Pattlesnake, and striped flag were used indis- criminately until July, 1777, when the blue union, TNath the stars, was added to the stripes, and the flag established by law. The private arms of Washington, bearing three stars in the upper portion, and three bars across the escutcheon, were thought to have had some connection Avith the flag, but this does not appear probable. 432 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. " Forever float that standard sheet ! Where breathes the foe but falls before us ? With freedom's soil beneath our feet, And freedom's banner streaming o'er us ! " The first troops to enter the town after the evacuation were five hundred men, under command of Colonel Ebenezer Learned, who unbarred and opened the gates of the British works. General Ward accompanied this detachment. They found the Neck thickly scattered with " crows'-feet " to impede their ad- vance. At the same time a detachment under General Putnam, with whom was Colonel John Stark, landed at the foot of the Common, and to the old wolf-hunter belongs the honor of first commanding in Boston as the successor of Sir William Howe. On the 20th the main army marched in, and on the 2 2d such of the inhabitants as had been separated from their friends during the ten months' siege thronged into the town. Putnam took possession of and garrisoned all the posts. Washington himself entered Boston the day after the evacu- ation, but, as the small-pox prevailed in town, the army did not march in until the 20th, as stated. By Washington's order, works were thrown up on Fort Hill, and those defending from the country were demolished. The general remained ten days in Boston. He attended the meetings of the Legislature, and on the 28th, accompanied by the other general officers and their suites, marched in procession from the Council Chamber to the Old Brick Church, where appropriate services were held, after which a dinner was provided for the general and his officers at the Bunch of Grapes, in King Street. During his stay Wash- ington reviewed the Continental troops on the Common. The first national medal voted by Congress was presented to General Washington for his successful conduct of the siege of Boston, by a resolution passed March 25, 1776. It was struck in Paris from a die by Duvivier. Wilkes, in a speech delivered in Parliament on the evacua- tion, said : " All the military men of this country now confess that the retreat of General Howe from Boston was an absolute flight ; as much so, sir, as that of Mahomet from Mecca." One other grand martial pageant of the Eevolutionary period THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 433 remains to be chronicled. This was the entry of Ilochambeau's forces into Boston in December, 1782. The army was com- manded by the brave General Baron de Viomenil, Kochambeau having taken leave of his troops at Providence, returning with a part of his staff to France. The French army was divided into four grand divisions, to which was added the field artillery. The second division was the first to arrive in the neighborhood of Boston, on the 4th, the first and third on the 5th, and the fourth on the 6th. The artillery did not arrive until the 18th. A few desertions oc- curred on the march, and the officers were obliged to exercise the greatest vigilance, as many of the poor fellows preferred remaining in the country to embarking for an unknown desti- nation. JS'otwithstanding it was midwinter, the troops, before enter- ing the town on the 7th, changed their dress in the open air, and appeared in such splendid array as gave but little hint of their long, weary march from Yorktown. Their welcome was enthusiastic and heartfelt. At a town-meeting held Saturday, December 7, of which Samuel Adams was moderator, James Sullivan and Samuel Barret, with the selectmen, were appointed a committee to wait on General Yiomenil with an address of welcome, to which the Baron returned a courteous reply. "What shall be said of the editorial and reportorial enterprise of that day? Beyond the brief notice we have given of the action in town-meeting, — and that appears as an advertisement, — there is not a single line referring to the entry in the columns of the Independent Chronicle, then published in Boston, nor any clew to a sojourn of seventeen days in the news department ; the other two papers dismiss the affiiir each with half a dozen lines. Such an event would now occupy the greater part of one of our mammoth journals ; not the smallest scrap of information would be too trivial, not a button would escape scrutiny. To the greater enterprise of Isaiah Thomas's jNIas- sachusetts Spy, and particularly to its Boston correspondent, regular or special, who writes under date of December 12, 1782, we are indebted for the following : — 19 BB 434 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. " Last week arrived in town from the southward, in four divisions, the troops of our generous ally, the King of France. A finer corps of men never paraded the streets of Boston in the infamous adminis- trations of Bernard, Hutchinson, and Gage. The quiet, peaceable, and orderly behavior of these troops during their long march sufficiently contradicts the infamous falsehoods and misrepresentations usually imposed on the world by perfidious Britons, who have often led us to entertain an unfavorable opinion of the French troops. We are happily convinced that such a character belongs wholly and only to the troops employed by the Royal Despot of Britain." The day was favorable, and the sunbeams danced and glit- tered on the bayonets of these veterans of two continents as they proudly marched over the Neck and through the modest streets of Old Boston. At their head rode Viomenil, who achieved such renown at Yorktown, and afterwards lost his life heroically defending his king at the attack on the Tuileries. At his side rode the Chevalier Alexander de Lameth, severely wounded at Yorktown, and afterwards a soldier of jS'apoleon ; the Marquis de Champcenetz ; Count Mathieu Dumas ; Alex- ander Bertliier, afterwards the adjutant-general and confidant of [Kapoleon, but deserting him in the hour of adversity; Lynch, the intrepid Englishman, who served in the ranks of France, and many others who gained renown in the wars into which that nation was shortly after plunged. The offi- cers wore singular-looking, two-cornered cocked hats with the white cockade, the uniform being white broadcloth, with fa- cings of red, blue, or green, according to the corps to which they belonged ; the general alone wore a blue overdress faced with red. All the officers wore high military boots, were splendidly mounted, and their equipments and side-arms were elegant and costly. A complete band of music accompanied the troops, whose martial strains were the first the Bostonians had heard since the evacuation by the British forces ; our own army yet marched to the music of the fife and drum. After these marched the regiment Royal Deux-Ponts, the lar- gest in the army, in four battalions, with its colonel, Count THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 435 Christian de Deux-Ponts, from wliom the regiment took its name, at its head. Count Christian afterwards commanded the Bavarian corps at the battle of Hohenlinden with distinguished valor. Count William, second colonel of the same regiment, wdio was wounded in the assault on the redoubt at Yorktown, where he won the order of Saint Louis, was on his way to France with the news of Cornwallis's surrender. The dress of this regiment was white. The men wore cocked hats, with pompons instead of cockades, woollen epaulets, white cross- belts, from which was suspended a short hanger and cartouche- box, and spatterdashes ; the hair was worn en queue ; — so far the description Avill apply to the whole army, the colors varied in all the regiments. ]!SJ"ext came the Soissonnais, with Count Segur, son of the Min- ister at War, and afterwards a peer of France, in their front. Segur was colonel en second of the regiment, but his senior, Count de Saint Maime, had come into Boston in advance of the army. Segur is also known as a historian, and author of his own memoirs. The regiment Saint-Onge, in white and green, follows, with Colonel Count de Custines, who became a general, and the Prince de Broglie, second in command. Both fell under the axe of the guillotine during the French Revolution. The Bourbonnais in black and red, the inftintry of Lauzun, all with arms and accoutrements in complete order, crowned with the laurels of victory and bearing the white standard and golden lilies in their serried ranks, close the brilliant pro- cession. An episode of this famous entry deserves mention. Young Talleyrand Perigord, brother of Prince Talleyrand, was on the staff of the Marquis Chastellux, who wished to take him back to France ; but the young warrior of eighteen was determined to remain with the army, and, having obtained a grenadier's uniform, marched in the ranks of the Soissonnais, with his haversack on his back and his gun on his shoulder. Talleyrand was well known to the superior officers, who pretended not to recognize him, and his warlike ardor became the town talk 436 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. He was christened Va-de-hon-coeur (go willingly), and was the subject of many attentions. The cavalry of the Duke de Lauzun, which had crossed steel with Tarleton's famous troopers and held him at bay at Glouces- ter, Virginia, were left behind with Washington's army on the Hudson. They carried lances, and were styled Uhlans, — a name rendered formidable by the Prussians in the late Franco-German war. The uniform of tliis famous corps was a blue hussar jacket, with high-crowned round hat. Their leader, the beau- ideal of a dashing cavalier, carried the news of the capitulation of Cornwallis to the king. When condemned afterwards by the tribunal of Fouquier Tinville, a moment before his ex- ecution he turned to those who were to suffer with him and said, " It is finished, gentlemen : I depart on the great journey." To the executioner he offered a glass of wine, saying, " Take it, you have need of courage to perform your duty." The artillery, although it did not join in the display, must not be forgotten. This arm was attired in blue, faced with red, with white spatterdashes and red pompons. The men wore the short Roman sword, and carried their firelocks by the slings. The heavy artillery train remained with the American forces, to assist, if necessary, in the reduction of New York. A great concourse of people came out to the Neck to welcome the gallant Frenchmen, and as the brilliant column moved along it was met Avith the liveliest demonstrations of joy and affection. Ladies waved their handkerchiefs from the windows, and the old streets echoed again with the plaudits of the people. Our readers will doubtless agree that, of the many pageants of which the Neck has been the theatre, none were so well Avorth witnessing as on the day when the superb host of our ally, Louis XVI., with closed ranks and firm tread passed into the town ; or that other day when, " In their ragged regimentals, Stood the Old Continentals," with little of the pomp of war in their appearance, but "wdth the light of victory in every countenance, as they marched in THE NECK AND THE FORTIFICATIONS. 437 triumph through the abandoned works of the enemy, inaugu- rating by their valor and constancy tiie hope ol" a successlld issue to the conflict just begun. The stay of the i'rench was improved by a round of reviews, balls, dinners, and receptions. The officers found quarters and genuine hospitality among the inhabitants, and the men were well cared for. Both officers and men parted with keen regret from the friends they had found, — a regret sincerely shared by the iidiabitants. At a lire which occurred in the town the French displayed such good-will and gallantry in assisting to extinguish it that they were publicly thanked. On the 11th, Governor Hancock and the council gave one of their solemn feasts to the general and field officers, the Marquis de Vaudreuil, and principal officers of the fleet. The fleet of the Marquis lay in the roads, consisting of the eighty gun-ships Le Triomphant, Le Coui'onne, and Le Due de Bourgogne ; the seventy-fours L'Hercule, Le Souverain, Le Neptune, La Bourgogne, Northumberland, Le Bravo, Le Cit- oyen, and the two frigates L'Amazone and La Nereide. At this time the squadron was joined by a most notable vol- unteer in John Paid Jones, who was, at his own solicitation, permitted to accompany M. de Vaudreuil. He was received with distinction by the ^larquis on board his own vessel, Le Triomphant, and lodged with the Baron Yiomenil. The des- tination of the squadron — a secret which was well kept — was Jamaica. On the 24th of December the fleet set sail from Boston for the rendezvous at Porto Cabello, which after nu- merous disasters it reached in February. While lying there. Paid Jones fell dangerously ill of the fever. Peace ensued before the fleet of D'Estaing, which Avas to co-operate, arrived from Cadiz. It will be remembered that Jones was compelled, by a resolution of Congress, to surrender the America, the building of which he had for sixteen months superintended, to ^I. de Vaudreuil, to replace Le Magnifique, which had belonged to the fleet of the Marquis. The reader, who has patiently followed us in the attempt to reconstruct to some extent the Boston of our fathers, to rebuild 438 LANDMARKS OF BOSTON. in imagination their habitations, and to revive their venerable customs, may, in a measure, realize those changes which have svi^ept over the ancient peninsula, and wellnigli totally effaced its landmarks ; and while he feels a just pride in that growth which is the expression of power, he may yet render due tribute to the solid traits and heroic deeds of those antique characters who laid the foundations deep and permanent on which have risen the Metropolis of New England. INDEX. INDEX Abbott, Colonel, 379. Academy of Music, first established in Boston, 259. Adams, Charles Francis, birthplace, 319 ; public services, 321 ; marries, 321. Adams Express Company, 76, 80. Adams Hall. See Boylston Hall. Adams House, site and name of, 392. Adams, John, 39, 60 ; incident of his nomination of Washington to com- mand the army, 73, 82, 89, 100 ; res- idence, 125, 126, 148, 181, 196, 201 ; sails for France, 221, 230 ; defends Preston, 249, 309 ; description of Hutchinson's Council, 347, 353, 355, 357 ; office, 402. Adams, John Quincy, library of, 37, 39, 125, 201 ; residence, 319 ; sketch of, 319 ; incidents of mission to Russia, 320 ; Lafayette visits, 364 ; names frigate Brandy wine, 382 ; office, 402 ; lays corner-stone of Boylston Market, 403, 404. Adams, Laban, innkeeper, 392. Adams, Samuel, 57, 69, 71 ; presides at Civic Feast, 110 ; proscribed, 125 ; portrait, 140, 149, 214, 220 ; at Tea Party Meeting, 229 ; resemblance to General Gage, 243, 248 ; opposed to theatres, 261 ; birthplace, 281 ; fire- ward, 295, 297 ; residence and sketch of, 308, 309 ; drafts State Constitu- tion, 309 ; Governor of Massachu- setts, 309 ; death, 309 ; anecdote of, 309 ; personal appearance, 309 ; de- scription of hi 5 birthplace, 309 ; lays comer-stone of New State House, 344; bust of, 345, 348, 372, 401, 406, 433. Adams, Samuel, senior, 380. Adams School, 314. Adams, Seth, printing-office, 253. Adams Street (Kilby), 109. Adams, W. T., 392. Adelphi Theatre, 74. Admiral Duff, ship, 211. Admiral Vernon Tavern, 111 ; kept by, 112. Adventure, Galley (Kidd's vessel), 78. Advertiser Building, 79. Albion, 56. Alboni, Madame,- 394. Alden Court, 371. Alcott, A. Bronson, school, 312. Alcott, Louisa May, 312. Alert, sloop-of-war, 171. Alexander, Emperor, traits of, 320. Alexis, Grand Duke, in Boston, 371. Allen, A. S., innkeeper, 392. Allen, Rev. James, old stone resi- dence, 363. Allen, Jeremiah, 261 ; residence, 363. Allen Street, 339, 370. Allen, Wm. H., 197 ; W. H., 390. Allotment of lands, 14. Allston, Washington, 38 ; studio, 276 ; picture of Belshazzar, 276 ; sketch and anecdotes of, 276, 277 ; death, 276 ; picture of Elijah, 367. Almsliouse, Old, 56 ; site and descrip- tion of, 299 ; erected, 299 ; removed, 300 ; management of, 300 ; occupied by wounded, 300, 352 ; at West End, 375 ; description of, 376. 442 INDEX. Amazone, French ship, 437. Amblard, James, residence, 145. American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 37, 38, 39. American Amphitheatre, 378. American Coffee House, 41, 108. American Congregational Association, 363. American House, 68, 70. America, ship, 180, 437. America, seventy-four, built, 180. American Works, location and descrip- tion of, 427, 428, 429. Ames, Fisher, 82 ; funeral, 353, 403. Ames, Joseph, 141. Ames Manufacturing Company, 58. Ames, Richard, shot, 326. Amherst, General Jeffrey, 240, 310 ; in Boston, 326. Amory, Jonathan, residence, 171. Amory, Rufus G., 390. Amory, Thomas, builds Club House, corner Park and Beacon Streets, 352. Amory, Thomas C, 196. Anabaptists, 15. Ancient Arch, Lynn Street, 199, 200. Ancient and Honorable Artillery, 83 ; first commander of, 88 ; Governor Dummer, Captain of, 102 ; history of, 137, 138 ; rendezvous, 138 ; armory, 138, 157 ; at Governor Shir- ley's fimeral, 267, 315, 331. Andover, Mass., 26, 60. Andover Theological Seminary, 55. Andre, John, execution of, 100. Andrew, John A., office, 83 ; statue of, 345. Andrews, Benj., 250. Andrews, Ebenezer T., 253. Andrews, John, 307. Andros, Lady Anne, burial-place of, 35 ; buried, 228 ; tomb of, 229 ; fu- neral, 390. Andros, Sir Edmund, 15, 31, 35, 40, 148 ; takes possession of Old South, 228 ; house, 228 ; deposed, 285 ; reputed residence of, 228, 390, 391. Annapolis, Naval Museum at, 106. Anne, Queen, 33, 64. Anne Street. See North Street, 127, 153. Annual Register, British, 431. Anthology CluH, 37, 124 ; headquar- ters, 268 ; William Tudor, 304. Antinornians, sect of, 63. Antiquarian Society, 237. Appleton, General, 356. Appleton, Samuel, 32. Appollonio, Mr., 298. Apthorp, Charles, 32, 386. Apthorp, Charles W., 358. Apthorp, Madam, house, 121. Arbuthnot, Admiral, 221. Arched passage-ways, 121 ; peculiar tenure of, 255. Arch Street, 39. Area of Boston, 8. Argus, brig, 181, 197. Armstrong, Captain Samuel, 221. Armstrong, John, Jr., 66. Armstrong, Jonathan, Postmaster of Boston, 92. Armstrong, S. T., 298; residence and bookstore, 338, 371. Ashburton Place, 50 ; named, 1 40, 362 ; formerly Somerset Court, 363. Ashburton treaty, 45. Asia, British frigate, 217. Asp, schooner, 221. Aston, Thomas, 386. Asylum for Indigent Boys, 209. Athenaeum Block, 280. Athenajum, Boston, 37, 38, 39 ; All- ston's pictures in, 276, 277, 280, 317 ; statues in, 344, 345. Atkinson Street. See Congress. Atkinson, Tlieodore, 273. Atlantic Avenue, 8, 115. Auchmuty's Lane. See Essex Street. Auchmuty, Robert, senior, 402. Auchmuty, Robert, younger, residence and sketch of, 402. Auchmuty, Sir Samuel, 402. Austin, Charles, killed, 114. Austin, Joseph, 168. Aurora, privateer, 171. Avon Street, News Letter printed near, 82 ; projected by, 365 ; residents of, 392. INDEX. 443 B. Back Bay, improvement, 8, 333. Back Street, 7, 153, 219. See Salem. Baiiibridge, William, 100, 186 ; action with the Java, 190, 191, 194, 355. Bainbridge, sloop-of-war, 185. Balch, Natlianiel, 314, 341 ; shop, 394. Baldwin, Loamnii, 38, 152 ; Engineer of Dry Dock, Charlestown, 185 ; En- gineer of Mill Dam, 333. Baldwin Place, 151 ; Second Baptist Chnrch in, 226, 416. Baldwin, Rev. Thomas, buried, 296. Ballard, innkeeper, 107. Ballard, John, 294. Ballon, Rev. Hosea, 64. Bancroft, George, 166 ; residence, 385. Banks, Commodore, 116. Banks, Nathaniel P., 341. Banner, Peter, architect of Park Street Church, 301. Bannister's Lane. See Winter Street. Baptist Bethel, 416. Barber, Nathaniel, 269. Barbour, Major, 357. Bardin, Edward, innkeeper, 428. Baring, Alexander, in Boston, 140. Barker, James, innkeeper, 105. Barker, Josiah, 185, 193. Barlow, Joel, 193. Barnard, Benjamin, %Q. Barnstable, 44. Barre, Colonel Isaac, portrait, 140, 269, 407. Barrell, Joseph, estate of, 254 ; pioneer in Northwest Coast trade, 254 ; sketch of, 389 ; store, 389. Barret, Samuel, 433. Barrett, George, 292. Barrett, Mrs. George, 40 ; debut in Boston, 318. Barrett, George L., 2,56, 318. Barricade, The, 8, 114 ; description of, 115, 284. Barrister's Hall built, 317. Barry, Commodore John, 182. Barry, Mr., 292. Bartol, Rev. C. A., 374. Barton, Mr., 273. Barton's Point, 24 ; ropewalks at, 273, 369 ; works to be assaulted, 359 ; copper-works and intrenchments at, 369. Barton Street, 375. Bass, Henry, residence of, 283, 406. Bates, Joshua, notice of, 324. Bath Street, 269. Batterymarch Street, 106 ; old water front, 110 ; shipyards on, 112 ; filled in, 288. Batterymarch, The, 286. Battery Street (Alley), 176. Battery Wharf, 116,' 168, 177. Battle of Lexington, relics of, in State House, 347. Baudoin. See Bowdoin. Baylies, Hon. W., 39. Beach Street, 7, 404 ; great fire in, 416 ; Neck begins at, 418. Beach Street Market, 404. Beacon Hill, 3, 6, 7, 10, 17, 47, 52, 54 ; material used to fill Mill Pond, 152 ; called Gentry Hill, 299 ; guns cap- tured on, 327 ; British works on, 328 ; camp of the Light Horse, 329 ; ropewalks on, 329 ; monument on, 345, 352 ; summit of, 349 ; to be assaulted, 359, 365. Beacon Street, 4, 37, 53, 56; Alms- house in, 299 ; town property on sold, 300 ; high bluft'at foot of, 325 ; British works on, 328 ; named, 333 ; aspect of, in 1775, 333 ; residents of, 333, 360 ; considered out of town, 338 ; terminus of, in 1722, 352. Beacon, The, 17 ; description and his- tory of, 349, 352. Bean, Mary, keeps the Admiral Ver- non, 112. Beaver, tea ship, 282. Bedford Place, 390. Bedford Street, 102, 230 ; called Pond Lane, 381 ; Blind Lane a part of, 381, 390. Beecher, Henry Ward, 147. Beecher, Laban S., 194. Beecher, Lyman, 147. Beecher's (Lyman) Church, site of, 147. 444 INDEX. Beer, William, 206, Beer Lane, 155. Belcher, Andrew, residence of, 101 ; warehouse, 102, Belcher, Governor Jonathan, 40, 67 ; residence of, 102 ; portrait of, 347 ; gives land for Hollis Street Church, 414, Belcher (and Armstrong), 338, Belcher's Lane. See Purchase Street, 281. Belknap's Alley (Brattle Street), 71, Belknap, Jeremy, 239, 263 ; buried, 296 ; residence of, 381. Belknap Street, 329 ; ropewalk on, 352 ; named, 370. Bell Alley, 162. See Prince Street. Bellamy, Samuel, 49. Belle Poule, frigate, 139. Bellingham, Governor Richard, resi- dence of, 51, 53, 54, 56, 58, 91 ; tomb of, 296. Bellomont, Earl of, 77 ; house of, 391. Bennet, David. See Spencer Pliipps. Bennet Street, 153, 213. Bent, Ann, shop of, 391. Bentley, Joshua, QQ>. Bentley, Samuel, 184. Bentley, Rev. William, anecdote of, 187, 188, Berkeley, George (Bishop), 72, Berkeley Street, 385, Bernard, Governor Francis, admits British troops to Faneuil Hall, 89, 236 ; reception, 241 ; proclaims last crowned head in colony, 241 ; coun- try residence, 242 ; effects stolen, 242, 247, 303 ; town residence, 307, 313, 348, 352 ; account of Liberty Tree, 398, 399, Berry Street, See Channing. Berry Street Academy, 262. Berry, Grace, 205, 207. Berthier, Alexander, in Boston, 433. Bethel Church, site of, 168. Bethune's Corner, 390. Black, Rev, William, 172, Black Horse Lane, See Prince Street. Black Horse Tavern, 219. Blackstone, Sir William, 4, 47. Blackstone, William, his settlement, 2, 3 ; house, 3, 10 ; orchard, 3 ; claim to the Peninsula, 4 ; marries, dies, 5 ; lot, 28 ; Common purchased from, 305 ; reserved six acres, 334. Blackstone's Point, 3, Blackstone's Spring, 3, 4, Blackstone Square, 6, Blackstone Street, 6, 7, 68, 127 ; built in . channel of Mill Creek, 132 ; named, 152. Blagden, Rev, G, W., settled in Salem Street Church, 220 ; resigns pastor- ate of Old South, 220. Blake (and Alden), 130. Blake, W. R., 291. Bland, Mr., 74, Bible and Heart, 234, Bigelow, Colonel, 269. Billings, Hammatt, 38. Birthplace of Franklin, 251 ; burnt, 252, Biscaccianti, Eliza, 291, Bishop's Alley, 253, See Hawley Street, Bishop, Madam Anna, 368, Bishop, Nathaniel, innkeeper, 248, 253, Bishop-Stoke Street, 52. Blessing of the Bay, first ship built in vicinity of Boston, 178, Blew Anchor, 121, 122. Blind Lane, See Bedford Street. Bloody Monday, 114. Blossom Street built, 376. Blott's Lane. See Winter Street. Blowers, Sampson Salter, office, 402. Blue Anchor Tavern, location of, 121. Blue Ball, The, 146 ; description of, 147, 162. Blue Bell and Indian Qaeen, site and sketch of, 248 ; another in Brom- fi eld's Lane, 248, 253, 275. Boarded Alley, or Board Alley, 155, 253 ; theatre in, 261. See Hawley Street. Boardman, Rev. Mr., 172. Bolter, Thomas, 282. Bolton, Dr., British surgeon, 108. Bonaparte, Jerome, anecdote of, 139. INDEX. 445 Bookseller's Row, 338. Book of Possessions, 19, 88. Boot, Kirk, 196 ; mansion of, 371. Booth, Junius Brutus, 40, 41, 394; manager of Tremont Theatre, 292. Borland's Wharf, 127. Boston, a village, 2. Boston Bay, 2. Boston Chronicle, 107. Boston, England, 6. Boston Evening Post, office of, 234. Boston, frigate, built, 181, 195 ; his- tory of, 196, 197 ; Old Boston, frigate, 221. Boston Gazette, 391. Boston Jail, 65 (Old Prison), 76, 77, 78 ; New Jail, 78 ; burnt, 78 ; County, 78 ; Debtor's, 78 ; keys of Old Prison, 78 ; Leverett Street, 78 ; description of, 374 ; removed to Charles Street, 375. Boston Library, incorporated and located, 255. Boston Light Dragoons escort Lafay- ette, 356. Boston Light Infantry, 190, 262. Boston Massacre, Knox's relation of, 85, 89 ; burial of victims, 297 ; no monument to, 298. Boston Pier (Long Wliarf), 114. Boston Port Bill, 68. Boston Regiment, The, 21, 65, 210 ; at Governor Sliirley's funeral, 267 ; detachment guard tea ships, 281 ; receives Lafayette, 355, 398. Boston Stone, 143 ; history of, 144, 145. Boston Theatre, 254 ; opened, 256 ; Edmund Kean's first appearance at, 257 ; second appearance, and riot, 258 ; Mrs. Rowson, 258 ; Macready, 259 ; John Howard Paine, 259 ; La- fayette at, 259, 364 ; architect and description of, 259, 260 ; cast on opening niglit, 260. Boston and Worcester Railroad, Com- pany purchases depot grounds in South Cove, 411 ; first equipment of, 411. Botta, 348. Bougainville visits Boston, 341. Bourbonnais (French regiment), 435. Bourgogne, Due de, French ship, 437. Bourne, Garrett, his lot, 404. Boutineau, James, residence of, 253. Bowditch, Nathaniel, 39 ; statue of, 344 ; residence of, 384. Bowditch, Nathaniel Ingersoll, 384. Bowdoin Block, 253. Bowdoiu College, James Bowdoin a patron, 253. Bowdoin, Governor James, 39, 57, 124, 233, 248 ; first President of Massachusetts Bank, 303, 337, 349 ; residence of, 361 ; sketch of, 361, 362, 387 ; widow of, 106. Bowdoin, James, Jr., residence of, 253. Bowdoin Square, 369 ; changes in, 370 ; trees in, 409. Bowdoin Square Church, site of, 371. Bowdoin Street, named, 352 ; called Middlecott, 352. Bowdoin Street Church, 147. Bowen, Mr., 41. Bowers, John, 52. Bowling Green, 369. See Bowdoin Square. Bownd, James, residence of, 223. Boyd, General John P., residence of, 168 ; commands Fort Independence, 280. Boyden, Simeon, innkeeper, 248. Boylston's Alley, 121. Boylston Hall, Museum in, 42 ; vari- ous occupants of, 403, 404. Boylston Market, 130, 354, 398 ; his- tory of, 403. Boylston Place, Boston Library in, 254. Boylston Street, 305 ; called J'rog Lane, 319 ; Duck Factory in, 322 ; British works in, 328. Boylston, Thomas, 288. Boylston, Ward Nicholas, 288, 403. Boylston, Dr. Zal)diel, introduces in- oculation, 103, 403. Boyne, British frigate, 217. Brackett, Antliony, innkeeper, 61. Brackett, Josluia, 61. Brackett, Richard, 234. Braddock, General Edward, 62. 446 INDEX. Bradstreet, Governor, portraits of, 346, 347. Braintree, 29. Brandywine, frigate, named, 382. Brattle Square, a place d'armes, 121, 126 ; headquarters for stages, 126. Brattle Street, 42 ; opened to Court, 71, 72, 74 ; barracks in, 121, 127 ; market in, 130. Brattle Street Church, 49, 68 ; parson- age, 76 ; ruins of, 122 ; history of, 122, 123, 124, 147, 234; Lafayette attends, 355 ; Washington attends, 387, 416. Brattle, Thomas, 31. Bravo, French ship, 437. Bray's Wharf, 129. Bi'asier Iini, 141. Brazen Head, 146, 272. Brazer's Building, 91, 92. Breed's Hill, 24, 116. Brenton, Captain William, Collector of Boston, 210. Brewer, Gardner, 147. Brewer, James, 2S2. Brickyards on the Neck, 422. Bridewell, site of, 299 ; at West Bos- ton, 376. Bridge, Thomas W., 35. Bridge Lane (Richmond Street), 155. Bridge Street, built, 376. Bridges, Cambridge, 24 ; Charles Riv- er, 24, 180 ; West Boston, 24 ; Do- ver Street, 24 ; Craigie's, 24 ; Lech- mere's Point, 25 ; Western Avenue, 25, 332, 333; South Boston, 25; Boston South Bridge, 24 ; Canal, 24. Bridgham's Wliarf, 127. Bridgman, Thomas, 205, 207. Brigham, Peter B., 71. Brighton Street, called Copper, 369. Brimmer, Martin, anecdote of, 368. Brimstone Corner, 301. Brissot, De, in Boston, 341. Britannia, steamsliip, 290. British Coffee House, 60 ; location of, 107 ; James Otis assaulted in, 108 ; theatricals in, 260. British Light Horse, stables and camp, 329. British Society, 31. British Stamps (Stamp Act), 80 ; speci- mens of, 81 ; ])urnt, 90 ; riots, 110. Broad Street, 109 ; built, 110 ; riot in, 111. Brock, General, 410. Bronitield, Edward, residence of, 294, 362. Bromfield House, 248. See Indian Queen tavern, 294. Bromfield, John, 38. Bromfield's Lane, 41. 'See Street. Bromfield Street, 10, 227 ; named, 294. Bromfield Street Church, 416. Brooker, William, Postmaster of Bos- ton, 79 ; publishes Boston Gazette, 79, 104. Brookline, 14, 418. Brooks, Edward, 147. Brooks, Governor John, sword of, 40, 43 ; at Bunker Hill, 86, 100, 355, 361 ; anecdote of, 367. Brooks, Peter C, 321. Brougliam, John, 74. Brougham, Mrs., 74. Brougham, Lord, 53. Br^n, Charity, 206. Brown, Deacon, 425. Brown, Elislia, prevents occupation of Factory House by troops, 303, Brown, Gawen, 234. Brown, Mr., house and barns of, 427 ; British outpost, 427 ; destroyed, 427. Brown, William, 49. Bruce, Captain James, 282. Bryant, Gridley J. F., 58. See United States Bank, 94. Bryant, W. C, 290. Buckingham, Joseph T., 403. Buckminster, Joseph S., 38, 123, 124. Bucks of America, 40. Building stone, curious statement about, 422. ' Bulfinch, Charles, 39 ; Franklin Street improvement, 75, 213, 248, 254 architect of Boston Tlieatre, 259 of Federal Street Churcli, 264, 311 of new State House, 343 ; Beacon Hill Monument, 350 ; sketch of. INDEX. 447 369, 370 ; designs new South Church, 380 ; Hollis Street Church, 415. Bulfinch Street. See Valley Acre, 370. Bulfinch Street Church, 416. Bulfinch, Thomas, residence of, 369. Bull's Head, the home of G. R. T. Hewes, 269. Bull Pain, 46. Bull Tavern, site of, 380. Burastead Place, residence of Adino Paddock, 294, 295. Bimch of Grapes Tavern, location of, 105, 107 ; Washington at, 432. Bunker Hill, Battle of, 60, 65, 69, 70 ; Knox at, 85, 87 ; General Dearborn at, 106 ; troops embark for, 113, 177 ; reminiscences of, 202, 216 ; General Howe's address to his troops, 245 ; burial-place of soldiers, 323 ; Lafayette's visit to, 355. Bunker Hill Monument, Webster's oration at, 45 ; brass guns in, 72, 112, 120, 278, 315; architect of, 312 ; corner-stone laid, 346, 392. Bunker Hill Monument Association, 352. Bunker Hill Quarry discovered, 312. Burgoyne, General John, 125, 127, 203, 204, 207 ; his regiment occupies Old South, 231 ; anecdotes of, 231, 232 ; at council, 243, 245 ; author of plays, 260, 310 ; capitulation of, 324 ; occupies Bowdoin's house, 362, 426, 427. Burnet, Gilbert (Bishop), 237. Burnet, William, 31 ; residence of, 65, 105, 236 ; born, 237 ; died, 237, 246, 247 ; portrait of, 346. Burns, Anthony, remanded to slavery, 113. Burr, Aaron, 296. Burritt, Elihu, 293. Bury Street. See Channing, 263. Bussey, Benjamin, residence of, 254, 416. Bute, Lord, hung in effigy, 399. Butler, Peter, warehouse and wharf, 112. Butler's Row, 112, 129. Butler, Pierce, 121. Buttrick, John, 345. Buttolph Street, 370. Byles, Mather, 29, 64, 67 ; anecdotes 'of, 85, 210 ; birthplace, 218, 219, 238 ; residence and sketch of, 412 ; death, 413 ; anecdotes of, 413, 414. Byles, Mather, Jr., 216. Byng, Admiral, effigy of, 150. Byron, Lord, 193. Cabot, George, residence of, 295 ; • sketch of, 295, 296. Cabot, Edward C, 38. Calico printing in Boston, 322. Cambridge, 86. Cambridge Bay (Back Bay), 414. Cambridge Bridge, 325. Cambridge Commencement, 16. Cambridge Street, extent of, 369. Campbell, John, Postmaster of Bos- ton, publishes News Letter, 82, 104, Campbell, Nicholas, 282. Campbell, William, innkeeper, 176. Cami), Fredericksburg, QQ. Caner, Rev. Henry, 29, 32, 35, 267. Canton, Mass., Revere's copper works at, 120. Canton Street, British works near, 426. Cape Cod, 49, 203. Cape Cod Row, 316. Capen, Nahum, Postmaster of Bos- ton, 385. Carleton, Sir Guy, 406. Carroll, Bishop, 256. Carr, Sir Robert, insolent reply to Governor Leverett, 174. Carter, Master James, 57, 75 ; resi- dence of, 76. Carter, Mrs., boarding-house of, 353. Cartwright, Colonel George, 174. Carver, Governor John, sword of, 40. Carver Street, British works near, 328. Cass, Lewis, 139, 185, 192. Castle, The, 24, 115 ; troops removed to, 121, 170 ; French prisoners at, 448 INDEX. 197 ; view of Boston from, 241 ; tea consignees at, 334 ; surgeon, 363 ; stamps sent to, 399 ; fortified, 424. Cathedral (new), 420, 421. Cathedral Buildings, site of Cathedral of Holy Cross, 255. Caucus, North End, rendezvous and origin of the name, 176. Causeway (Mill Pond), 1, 150 ; origin of, 151. Causeway Street, 7, 150. Cazneau, Mr., residence of, 402. Centinel Hill, 370. Central House, 121. Central Wharf, arch on. 111, 115. ' Centre Street, 37, 153, 154. Centre Writing School, 57, 75 ; anec- dote of, 304. Centry Hill, 56. See Beacon Hill. Centry Street named, 299. See Park Street. Chambers Street, 370. Champney, John, 60. Champcenetz, Marquis, 433. Change Avenue {see Pillory), 93 ; United States Custom House on corner of, 105. Channing Street, John H. Payne's residence in, 262 ; named, 263. Clianning, Rev. W. E., 263, 264. Chantrey, Sir F., statue of Washing- ton, 345. Chapin, Rev. E. H., 64. Chapman, Captain, 229. Chapman Hall, 65. Chapman, Jonathan, 140. Chapman Place, 65. Chappotin, Leon, public-house of, 384 ; entertains Jerome Bonaparte, 384. Chardon, Peter, residence of, 371. Chardon Street, school-house in, 371. Charles I., 10, 11, 50, 55. Charles II., 33, 34, 51, 53, 83, 174. Charles River, 2, 3, 17 ; commanded by North Battery, 177, 203. Charles Street, 4 ; ropewalks near, 324 ; opened, 324, 325 ; sea-wall built, 325, 333, 370 ; trees removed from, 409. Charleston, S. C, 103. Charlestown, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ; slaves shipped to, 13 ; Ferry, 24, 25 ; Portsmouth stage, 26, 57, 65 ; at- tack on, 117. Charlestown Bridge, 5, 7. Charlestown Company, 5, 10. Charlestown Ferry, 5, 125. Charlestown Navy Yard, 182, 183, 186, 194, 195, 322, 327 ; Lafayette's visit to, 355. Charlestown Neck, 25, 181 ; retreat over, 203, 207, 243. Charter Street, named, 209 ; residents of, 211. Chase, Major-General, 355. Chase, Thomas, 282. Chastellux, Marquis, 19, 24, 61, 85, 362, 435. Chatham Street, 112. Chauncey, Commodore Isaac, 186. Chauncy Place named, 381, 382. Chauncy Street, First Church removed to, 84. Checkley, Rev. Samuel, 380. Cheever, Ezekiel, 57. Chelsea, 14, 24. Cherub, frigate, 171. Cheverus, Bishop, 255 ; anecdote of, 256. Chicopee, 58. Child, Lydia M., 167, 168. Choate, Rufus, office, 82 ; anecdotes of, 83, 219 ; portrait of, 141. Christ Church, 163, 200 ; history and description of, 213, 214, 215, 216; legends of, 216, 217 ; second Epis- copal church, 213 ; steeple blown down, 213; chimes, 214, 215, 386, 414. Church, Colonel Benjamin, sword of, 40, 48. Cliurch, Dr. Benjamin, 120, 149 ; on the Boston clergy, 161, 229 ; treason discovered, 243 : residence of, 243, 269, 392, 414. Church Green named, 380. Church pews, introduction of, 416. Church Square, 84. Circidating Library, First, 106. Citoyen, French ship, 437. INDEX. 449 City Excliange, 99. City liall, 7 ; liistory of, 58, 59 ; Old State House used as, 89. City Market, 130. City Tavern, 121. Civic Feast held in Boston, 110. Claghorn, Colonel George, 1S2, 183. Clai)board Street, iiee Joy Street. Cla].]), William W., 403. Clark, Rev. Jonas, 214. Clark, Captain Tinio, 284. Clark's shipyard, site of, 174, 178. Clark's Square. See North Square. Clark Street, 19. Clark's Wharf, 170. See Hancock's. Clark, William, residence of, 163. Clarke, Benjamin, 283. Clarke, John, 55, 363. Clarke, Richard, store and residence of, 334. Samuel, 59. Clay, Henry, 193 ; at Tremont House, 290. Clifton Place, American works near, 428. Clinton, Sir H., 90, 103 ; arrived in Boston, 125, 127, 207; at cJbuncil of war, 243 ; relieves Howe, 244, 245, 285, 310 ; occupies Hancock's House, 362. Clinton Street, Triangular Warehouse in, 131. Club House, Park Street, builder, 352 ; Lafayette resides in, 352 ; Christopher Gore, Samuel Dexter, George Ticknor, and Malbone live in, 352, 353 ; a boarding-house, 353 ; becomes Club House, 354. Coaches, public and private, first used, 25 ; numljer of, in 1798, 25, 26. Cobb, General David, 100, 361, 364. Cobuni, John, residence of, 113. Cochituate Lake, 23. Cockburn, Admiral, 321. Cockerel Church. See Second Church. Codman's Buildings, 70. Codmau, John, 196, 389. Codman's Wharf, 129. Coffin, Admiral Sir Isaac, 154, 309 ; birthplace and sketch of, 405 ; en- dows Coflfin School, 406. Coffin, General John, 154 ; birthi^lace, 405. Coffin, Captain Hezekiah, 282. Coffin, Lieutenant-Colonel, 116. Coffin, Nathaniel, 405. Coffin, Sir Thomas Aston, 154, 406. Coffin School, 406. Coffin, William, innkeeper, 105. Coffin, William, 386, 406. Coggan, John, first shopkeeper, 88. Colbron, William, field of, 305. Colburn, Jeremiah, 240. Cole Lane (Portland Street), 126, 145. Cole's (Samuel) Inn, first in Boston 108, 109, 141. Cole, Master Samuel, 75. Collier, Sir George, 191. Collingwood, Admiral, 116. Colman, Rev. Benjamin, 123, 138. Colonnade Row, built and named, 316 ; residents of, 316, 317 ; called Fayette Place, 316, 317. Colson, Adam, 282 ; residence of, 306. Columbian Centinel, office of, 100, 101. Columbia River, named for, 254. Comey's Wharf, 182. Commercial Cofiee House, 105. — See Bunch of Grapes, — location of, 287. Commercial Street built, 128, 153, 198. Common, The, 3, 4, 10, 17 ; collector's boat burnt on, 170, 214, 289 ; extent of, 296 ; Granary erected on, 262, 265, 299 ; Park Street built on, 299 ; Almshouse, Workhouse, and Bride- well on, 299 ; spinning exhibitions on, 302 ; history of, 305 ; only three trees on, 305 ; the malls planted, 305, 306 ; more territory purchased for, 306 ; disfigured by camps, 306 ; fences on, 306, 307 ; called Gentry Field and Training Field, 307 ; West Street entrance, 313 ; Mason Street the east boundary, 314 ; hay-scales and gun-house on, 322 ; guns parked on, in 1812, 322 ; Boylston Street Mall, 323 ; ropewalks on, 324 ; the lower part a marsh, 325 ; topography of, 325 ; troops embarked for Lexington, 326 ; English forces on, 326 ; mili- CC 450 INDEX. tary execution on, 326 ; a permanent camp, 327 ; position of British works on, 327, 328 ; an intrenched camp, 328 ; Powder House on, 329 ; ponds, 329 ; executions on, 331, 332, 360 ; duel on, 332 ; British hospital and guard-house on, 332 ; Beacon Street Mall, 333 ; review by Lafayette, 355 ; introduction of Co- chituate water, 357 ; Stamp Act repeal, 358, 359 ; review of events on, 358 ; music on, 359 ; grazing and executions on, discontinued, 360 ; Washington reviews Continental troops on, 432. Common Burying-Ground opened, 323; uses and traditions of, 323, 324 ; British soldiers buried in, 323 ; British fortification near, 328. Common Street described, 412, 416. Commonwealth Avenue, 124, 145 ; statue in, 344. Conant, Colonel, 214. Conduit Street, 127. Concert Hall, 70 ; military court in, 71 ; early use by Masons, 71 ; office of Customs Commissioners, 71 ; grand ball to Admiral D'Estaing, 71, 430. Concord, N. H., ancient Rumford, 87. Congress Hall. See Julien. Congress House, location of, 281. Congress Street, 37, 234, 264. State Sti'eet so called, 89 ; United States Bank in, 96 ; Exchange Coffee House in, 99 ; origin of name, lOi ; made land, 109 ; Quaker church and burial- ground, 267, 268 ; the Anthology Club, 268 ; part called Atkinson Street and Green Lane, 271. Congress Square, Custom House in, 106. Conscription Riot, 1863, 223, 224. Constellation, frigate, 171, 181. Constitution, frigate, 139 ; built, 180 ; history and exploits, 180 to 196 ; keel laid, 181 ; first named officially, 181 ; designers and mechanics of, 182 ; figure-head, 183 ; battery, 183 ; launch, 183, 184 ; description of, 185 ; rebuilt, 185 ; first cruise, 185, 186 ; conmiander, 186 ; escape from British fleet, 187 ; anecdotes of, 188, 189 ; named Old Ironsides, 189 ; rel- ics of, 192 ; figure-head affair, 193, 194, 195, 201 ; her sails made in the Granary, 322. Constitution Wharf, 191. Conway, General, 140. Cooke's Court, 65. Cooke, Elisha, house of, 65. Cooledge, Thomas, 282. Cooley, Azariah, innkeeper, 429. Coolidge, Joseph, 196, 283. Cooper, J. Fenimore, 165 ; historical error, 181. Cooper, Rev. Samuel, 123, 124. Cooper, Samuel, 9. Cooper, Thomas A., 191. Cooper, Rev. William, 123. Cooper, William, residence of, 72. Copley, John S., 4, 52, 67, 73, 122, 140, 165 ; residence of, 334 ; goes abroad, 35 ; dies, 335 ; sale of es- tate, 335, 336 ; personal appearance, 336'; an engraver, 336 ; opinions of his works, 336. Copley, Richard, 371. Copp, Joanna, 205. Copp, William, 198, 205. Copper Street. See Brighton. Copp's Hill, 6, 7, 10, 17, 22, 24, 114 ; used to fill Mill Pond, 152, 158, 176 ; shipyards at, 179 ; description of, 198 ; British works on, 199, 202, 204 ; bombardment from, 207 ; place of recreation, 208, 244, 399. Copp's Hill Burying-Ground, 157, 159 ; Mather's tom'b, ^162, 163, 199 ; de- scription of, 204, 205 ; inscriptions, 205, 206. Coram, Captain Thomas, 30. Corn Court, United States Court House in, 106 ; named, 141. Cornish, Catherine, 16. Cornish, William, 16. Corn Hill. See Fort Hill. Cornhill (Old), 22, 55, 72 ; origin of name, 76 ; first clock placed in, 85 ; extent of, 88, 89; Post-Office in, INDEX. 451 104 ; To\vn Pump in, IIS ; Blue Anchor in, 121 ; emblematic signs in, 14(3 ; booksellers in, 338 ; named Washington Street, 420. Cornhill (New), 42, 75 ; built and called Market Street, 7(5, 104. Cornhill Court, 84. Cornhill Square, 84. Corn Market 141. Cornwallis, Lord, capitulation of, 436. Getting Uriali, 46, 248 ; buried, 296 ; builds Mill-Dam, 333 ; residence,36o, 366 ; builds New Cornhill, 76 ; Broad Street, 110 ; India Street, 111. Cotton Hill, 6, 8, 9, 34, 47 ; Andros's house near, 228, 391. Cotton, John, 7, 11, 35, 47, 48 ; house, 50, 51 ; estate, 52, 56, 63, 91, 101, 412. Cotton, manufacture of, begun, 322. Couronne, French ship, 437. Court Avenue, 84. Court dress, described, 245, 246. Court House, 44 ; new, 57 ; old Coun- ty, description of, 59 ; present, 77 ; old brick Court House, 78 ; County, 78 ; Municipal, 78 ; present, built, 79, 82 ; old State House used as, 90 ; present, 94 ; architect of, 312. Court Street, 42, 47, 68, 71, 75 ; Prison Lane, 77 ; Queen Street, 77, 79 ; headquarters newspaper press, 81, 82 ; cannon concealed in, 315. Coventry Street, 52. Cow Lane. See High Street. Crabtree, Mr., builds Causeway, 151. Cradock, George, 42, 56. Cradock, Mathew, 47. Crafts, Eben, 301. Crafts, Colonel Thomas, 221. Crane, John, Tea Party, 282 ; injured on tea -sliip, 283 ; j)lants trees in Paddock's Mall, 294, 295 ; residence and anecdote of, 412 ; destroys Bro^\^l's house, 427. CraAvford, Thomas, 38. Crawford, William H., 197. Creek Lane, 127, 144 ; named, 145. Crescent Place, 373. Crocker, Hannah M., 161, 166, 215. Crockett, David, 45. Cromwell, Oliver, 13, 51, 61, 83. Cromwell's Head, 61, 62. Crooked Lane, 94. See Wilson's Lane. Cross Street, 127 ; destroyed, 154, 158. Cross Tavern, 154. Crosswell, Rev. Andrew, 64. Crown Coffee House, location, 112. Crovm Point. See Ticonderoga. Cumberland, frigate, 185. Cummings, G., innkeejier, 398. Gushing, Judge, residence of, 337. Gushing, Tliomas (Lieutenant-Govern- or), 57, 136, 180 ; birthplace, 248 ; dies, 248 ; burial-place, 248. Gushman, Charlotte, 394. Custom House, Royal, 42, 76, 94, 156, 157 ; First United States, 103, 105, 106 ; figures on, 106 ; in Custom House Street, etc. , 106 ; ships built on site of, 112 ; present, columns of, 94, 112, 131 ; State, 142. Cutler, Timothy, D. D., first rector of Christ Church, residence of, 215. Gyane, sloop-of-war, 185. Gyane, frigate, 186 ; captured, 191 ; flag of, 193. D. Dacres, Admiral James R., anecdotes of, 99, 100, 189. Daille, Rev. Pierre, 64. Dale, Captain Richard, 182. Dalrymple, Colonel, 347. Dalton, Peter Roe, Cashier United States Bank, 96. Dana, Edmund T., 38. Dana, Richard, 400 ; residence of, 402, Darracott, George, 205. Darley, Mrs., dehut of, 318. Dartmouth, tea ship, 282. Dassett's Alley, 79. Davenport, Rev. Addington, first rec- tor of Trinity, 386, 387. Davenport, James, innkeeper, 168. Davenport, Jean Margaret, debut in Boston, 378. Davenport, John, 35 ; house, 55, 56. 452 INDEX. Davies Lane, 352, Davis, Caleb, 389. Davis, Admiral Charles H. , birthplace and sketch of, 364. Davis, Daniel, residence and sketch of, 364. Davis, Deacon, 243. Davis, Isaac, 345. Davis, Isaac P., 273. Davis, John, report of codfish ery, 348. Davis, Judge John, 100, 370. Davis, Major, 138. Dawes, Major Thomas, architect of Brattle Street Church, 122, 269 ; birthplace, 281 ; fireward, 295, 398. Day, Captain James, innkeeper, 286. Dean, John Ward, 139. Dean, Julia, first appearance in Boston, 378. Deane, American frigate, 221. Deane, Silas, 251, 310. Dearborn, General Henry, 100 ; Collec- tor of Boston, 105, 106 ; residence of, 106 ; married, 253, 364, 410. Dearborn, H. A. S., 106, 298. De Beaumetz, M., 141. Decatur, Stephen, 186, 187, 188, 197. Dedham Street, 419 ; British works near, 426. De Genlis, Madame, 141, 142. De Joinville, Prince, in Boston, 139, 140. Delano, Mrs., boarding-house of, 362. Delight, privateer, 171. Derby, George H., anecdote of, 291. Derby, Richard, 269. Derne Street, 351. Descriptions by early travellers, 16, 17, 18, 19. Deshon, Moses, 135. D'Estaing, Coimt, in Boston, 71, 91, 103 ; reception in Faneuil Hall, 138, 232, 339 ; anecdote of, 341, 356. Deux Ponts, Count Christian, 434 ; Count William, 434. Devonshire Street, 98, 254. Dewey, Captain, 194. Dexter, Aaron, 269. Dexter, Mrs., 120, 307. Dexter, Samuel, 114 ; residence and sketch of, 353, 354, 370, 414. Dibdin, Dr., 336. Dickens, Charles, at Tremont House 290, 293. Dickinson, John, Liberty Song of, 252. Dickinson, Thomas, 196. Dickson, J. A., 256, 257, 318. Dike built on the Neck, 420. Distilleries in 1722, 18 ; oldest in Bos- ton, 406 ; Avery's, 406 ; Haskins's, 406 ; number in Boston in 1794, 406 ; Henry Hill, 406. Distill-House Square, 151 ; named, 371. Ditson, Oliver, and Company, 223. Dock Square. 56, 126 ; covered by tides, 127, 130 ; old market in, 134 ; riot of 1863, 142. Dolbier, Edward, 283, 410. Done, Joseph, 49, Doolittle's Tavern, 154. Dorchester annexed, 23, 160. Dorchester Artillery, 316. Dorchester Heights, 208, 359. Dorchester Neck, 23, 425. Dorr Rebellion, 106. Dorsett's Alley, 79. Doty, Colonel, innkeeper, 392, Dover Street, shipyard near, 419. Dow, Lorenzo, 173. Downes, Commodore John, residence of, 111, 159. Dowse, Thomas, library of, 40. Doyle, William M. S., 41. Drake, Samuel G., 170, 365. Dramatic Museum, site of, 404. Draper's Alley, 121. Draper, John, residence of, 121. Dress of the Puritans, 11. Drowne, Deacon Shem, 135, 236. Dry Dock, Charlestown, opened, 139, 185. Dryden, John, 15, 63. Dubuque, residence of, 270. Duck Manufactory, location and his- tory of, 322. Du Coudray, M., 86, 328. Dudley, Governor Joseph, 31. Dudley, Governor Thomas, 225. Duff, Mr., 257. INDEX. 453 Di;ke of Argyle, 272. Duke of Bolton, 3S4. Duniaresq, Philip, residence of, 372, 386. Dumas, Count Matliieu, 434. Duninier, Jeremiah, residence of, 102 ; birthplace, 103. Dummer, Governor William, 40 ; resi- dence of, 102, 103. Dunbar, battle of, prisoners from, 13, Dunlap, William, 335. Dunster, Henry, estate of, 84. Dunton, John, 122. Duplessis, 147. Dupont, Admiral, 364. Du Portail, General, 285. Durivage, F. A., 104. Duvivier, P. S. B., makes die for Washington Medal, 432. Dyar, Mary, hung, 330. E. Eagle Tlieatre, history of, 378. Earl's Coffee House, 70, 154. East Boston, 14, 23. East Boston Company, 23. East Cambridge Bridge, 7. Eastern Avenue, 168. Eastern Military District, 383. Eastern Stage House, location of, 154. Eastham, 49. Eaton, Andierst, innkeeper, 430. EajTes, Joseph, 282. Eckley, Rev. Joseph, buried, 296. Edes, Benjamin (and Gill), prints Bos- ton Gazette and Country Journal, 80 ; office, 81 ; Tea Party coimcil, 81 ; prints for Provincial Congress, 81 ; house, 121. Edes, Thomas, Governor Hutchinson concealed in his house, 166. Edict of Nantes, 54. Edinboro' Street, 407. Edwards, Jonathan, 72. Edwards, Rev. Justin, 220. Eleanor, tea ship, 282. Election Sermon (Artillery), 138. Elgin, Eari of, in Boston,'l40. Eliot, Andrew, buried, 207. Eliot, John, 39, 155; residence, 174; buried, 207. Eliot, Samuel, 56, 196. Eliot, Samuel A., 56. Eliot School, 65 ; history of, 218 ; present school dedicated, 219 ; re- bellion of pupils, 219. Eliot Street, 416. Elliott, General, 262. Elliott, Commodore Jesse D., 186 ; affair of figure-head, 194, 195. Ellis, Joshua, 165, 207. Ellis, Rowland, 165. Elm, The Great, 10, 305, 329 ; witch- craft executions, 330 ; age and sketch of, 330, 331, 334. Elm neighborhood, 396. Elm Street, 102 ; headquarters of stages, 126 ; widened, 145. See Wing's Lane. Embargo of 1812, 116. Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 385. Emerson, William, 38, 385. Emmons, Commodore G. F., 180, 185. Endicott, Governor John, 5, 11, 40 ; house, 47, 48, 53, 56, 58 ; portraits of, 346, 347. Endicott Street, 151. England, Church of. 33, 34. English High, and Latin Schools, 390. English, Thomas, residence of, 390. Enterprise, schooner, 171. Episcopalians, 4, 15. Er\-ing, Colonel John, 295 ; residence, 267. Erving, Colonel John, Jr., 263 ; resi- dence, and funeral of Governor Shiriey from, 267. Essex Coffee House (Salem), 201. Essex, frigate, 171. Essex Junior, 111. Essex Street, 53 ; Boston Library in, 2.55, 401, 404; residents of, 407 410. Eustis Street, Roxbury, Shirley man- sion in, 239. Eustis's Wliarf, 132. Everett, Edward, 6, 45, 50, 123, 124 ; School, 219 ; residence, 219, 250. Everett, Colonel, 364. 454 INDEX. Ewer, Charles, projects South Cove and Avon Street improvements, 365, 411. Exchange (present), 83 ; in Old State House, 89 ; United States Bank on site of, 95, 101, 104 ; in Congress | Street, 269. I Exchange Coffee House, 91 ; history and description of, 98, 99 ; burnt, 99, 100 ; banquet to Bainbridge, 190 ; Willard works on, 311 ; con- flagration of, 311 ; dinner to Lafay- 1 ette, 355, 403. I Exchange Street, 56, 96 ; description, 1 101. Extmguisher, Engine House, 402. Fairbanks, Richard, first Postmaster of Boston, 104. Familists, 51. Faneuil, Andrew, 54, 64, 101 ; ware- house, 108, 112 ; corner, 114, 115, 163. Faneuil, Benjamin, 30, 112 ; store, 129, 386 ; funeral of, 390. Faneuil Hall Market, 76, 127. Se,e Quincy Market, 130. Faneuil Hall, 30, 39, 44, 54, 55; Lovell's address in, 57 ; used as Town House, 59 ; Trumbull exhibits his picture in, 73 ; Knox's, portrait, 86 ; British troops, 89 ; Eagle from United States Bank, 95, 102 ; site, 127 ; a market, 130 ; history and description of, 133 to 141 ; portraits in, 140, 141 ; called Cradle of Lib- erty, 133 ; burnt, 135 ; enlarged, 135 ; grasshopper on, 135, 193 ; Tea Party meeting, 229 ; anecdote of, 249 ; theatre in, 260 ; Dalrym - pie's regiment quartered in, 303 ; Phillips's first antislavery speech in, 337 ; lottery authorized to re- build, 343 ; toast by Lafayette, 355 ; anti-Mexican war-meetings, 379, 403. Faneuil, Peter, 30 : estate, 54, 55, 57 ; warehouse, 112, 129 ; builds Faneuil Hall, 134, 135 ; death, 136 ; por- trait, 141, 236, 253 ; the Wood- bridge-Phillips duel, 113, 386 ; at- tends Trinity Church, 387. Faneuil, Susannah M., 253. Farragut, Admiral D. G., 364. Farwell, J. E., 267. Faust's statue, sign of, 252. Fayette Place. See Colonnade Row. Fayette Street. See Soutli Allen. Federal Band, 262. See J. Howard Payne. Federal Street, 25 ; Theatre, 256 ; fish taken in, 264. Federal Street Church, 89 ; site and descrijition of, 263 ; anecdote of the vane, 263 ; Federal Convention held in, 263, 264 ; rebuilt, 264. Felt, J. B., 423. Fenno, John, keeper of the Granary, 299. Ferries, 24 ; Cliarlestown, 202 ; inci- dents of, 203. Fifth British regiment, 113, 116 ; at Bunker Hill, 203. Fifty-second British regiment, 177. Fifty-ninth British regiment at Bunker Hill, 203 ; posted x)n the Neck, 425. Five Points, 153. Fillmore, Millard, in Boston, 371. Finn, Henry J., 257 ; died, 258, 292. Fire Department, origin of, 19, 20; reforms in, 56. Fire engine, first, 19 ; first made in Boston, 20. Fires of 1654, 1676, 1678, 19 ; of 1825, 23 ; of 1787, 416. First Baptist Church, 150 ; history and location, 222 ; organized, 227, 363. First Battalion Marines, British, 177. First book printed in Boston, 82. First buildings, character of, 9. First Churchl, 7, 35, 50, 55, 56 ; second location, 84 ; Old Brick, 84, 85 ; first site, 91, 102 ; buriit, 113 ; John Hull member of, 211, 363 ; estate, 382, 385 ; removal, 385 ; relics of the Old Brick, 3£5. INDEX. 455 First clock set up, 85, First Directory published in Boston, no. First glass-works, location and sketch of, 408 ; destroyed, 408. First Methodist Church, 172, 173 ; accident in, 173. First newspaper printed in Boston, 16. First stone block, 71. First Smiday school in New England, 374. First Universalist Church, 172, 173. First war vessel built in Boston, 179. Fish market, location of, 127. Fish Street (North), 26, 153 ; de- scription of, 158. Fitche, Colonel, 307. Flagg Alley (Change Avenue), 105. Flags used by Americans. 431. Flagstaff Hiil, Old, British works on. 328. Flat Conduit, 127. Fleet, Thomas, printing-office of, 234. Fleet Street, 161 ; gardens of Gov- ernor Hutchinson on, 167 ; named, 168, 220. Fleming, John, 107. See Mein. Flounder Lane 281. Flucker, Thomas, residence of, 271 ; Lucy, 271. Fuller Sarah Margaret (Countess d'Os- soli), residence and school of, 312 ; shipwreck and death of, 312, 392. Fulton Street, 128. Forbes, R. B., 161. Fore Street, The, 7, 152, 219. Forest Hills, General Warren en- toml)ed at, 311. Fort Du Quesne, 125. Fort Field. See Fort Hill. Fort George, 168. Fort Hill, 6, 7, 17, 115 ; embargo flag on, 116, 176 ; shipyards at, 179 ; illumination on, 209 ; great fire of, 1760, 272 ; Revolutionary fort lev- elled, 272 ; fortified, 284 ; garrison of, 285 ; works strengthened, 285 ; guns removed, 285 ; rejoicings on, 286 ; description of, 287, 288 ; lev- elled, 288 ; Stamp Act troubles, 399, 409 ; hill fortified, 424. Fort Hill Block, 280. Fort Independence, 280. See Castle. Fort Lee (N. Y.), incident of, 374. Fort Snelling named, 221. Fort Washington, incident of, 373. Forty-ninth British regiment, part of, in Lexington expedition, 304. Forty-seventh British regiment, 177, 229. Forty-third British regiment, 177. Foster. Jolm, prints first book in Bos- ton, 82. Foster Street, 200, 211. See Clark. Foster, William, innkeeper, 105. Foster, William, residence of, 306, 313, 404. Foster's Wharf. See Wlieehvright's. Foundling Hospital, Loudon, Eng- land, 30. Fourth Baptist Church, site of, 267. Fourth British regiment, part of, in Lexington expedition, 304. I Fourteenth British regiment, quarters ' of, 271 ; on the Common, 326. Fowle, William B., 145. FoAvle, Zachariah, printing-office of, 223. Fox, British ship, 220. Foxcroft, Thomas, 55. Fox Hill levelled, 325, 328. Frankland, Sir Charles H., 30, 97; residence, 162 ; Lady Frankland, 163, 165 ; description of house, 163, 164, 165, 236 ; narrow escape of, 421. Frankland, Lady, narrow escape of, 421. Franklin Avenue (Dorsett's Alley), 79 ; ])art of Brattle Street, 79. Franklin, Benjamin, 57 ; anecdotes of, 58 ; ai)prentice in Queen Street, 80 ; publishes Courant, 80 ; his old press, 80, 145 ; birthplace, 146 ; original portraits, 147, 162 ; obtains Hutch- inson's letters, 166 ; baptized, 229, 249 ; anecdote of, 251 ; bom, 252 ; Mrs. (Reed), 80. Franklin, James, prints Boston Ga- zette, 79 ; N. E. Courant, 79 ; forbid- den to print Courant, 80, 103, 104. 456 INDEX. Franklin, Josias, his sign and sliop, 146, 252. Franklin Place, 255. Franklin School, Charles Sprague at- tends, 417. Franklin Statue, 57, 58, 337. Franklin Street, 9, 39, 75, 227 ; a bog, 254 ; reclamation of, 254. Fraser, Colonel Simon, his regiment on Boston Connnon, 326 ; death and burial at Stillwater, 327. Frederick, Francis, hanged, 424. Freeman, James, 39. Freeman Place Chapel, built on site of Governor Phillips's house, 362. Freemason's Arms, 150. See Green Dragon Tavern. Freemasons' first Lodge in Boston, 150. Freemason's Hall (Tremont Street) burnt, 318. French and Indian war, 20. French army, entry into Boston of, 433 to 437 ; composition of, 433 ; uni- form and band, 434 ; embarkation, 437. French Artillery, uniform of, de- scribed, 436. French Huguenot Church, 63 ; de- scription of, 64 ; occupied by Cath- olics, 256. Freneau, Philip, lines of, on General Gage, 427. Free Writing-School, 75. Friends of Liberty, resort of, 70. Frizell's Square. See North Square. Frog Lane. See Boylston Street. Frog Pond, 329. Front Street. See Harrison Avenue. Frothingham, Nathaniel, 282. Frothingham, Mr., 313, 322. Frothingham, Richard, Jr., 116. Fuller, Sarah Margaret, 312. G. Gage, General Thomas, 53, 57, 90 ; lands at Long Wharf, 115 ; chariot, 116, 123, 124, 125, 127, 137, 149, 168, 203, 208, 216, 225, 236; in Province House, 242, 243 ; married, 243 ; resemblance to Samuel Adams, 243 ; proclamation ridiculed, 244, 247, 272, 293, 326, 340 ; portrait of, 348, 369, 426, 427. Gallery of Fine Arts, 130. Gallows, position of, 423 ; anecdote . about, 423 ; executions, 424. Gamba, Count, 193. Gammell, T., 283. Garden Court Street, 162, 164. Garden Street, 370. Gardiner, John, 261. Gardner, Gideon, innkeeper, 428. Gardner, John S. J., 38, 386. Gardner, Eliza G., 340. Garrison, William Lloyd, 379. Gas first used in Boston, 22. Gates, General Horatio, m, 73, 103, 144, 145; anecdote of, 232, 310; commands in Boston, 383 ; anecdote of, 383, 429. Gay Alley (Brattle Street), 71. Gay, John, 1. Gay, Timothy, 206. Gee, Joshua, shipyard of, 179 ; resi- dence, 202, 204. Geographical divisions, 10, George I., 102. George II., 90 ; portrait, 140, 167. George III., 58; accession last pro- claimed in Boston, 90, 167 ; outlaws Hancock and Adams, 308, 309. George Street. See Hancock. George Tavern, Governor Burnet's re- ception at, 238. George Tavern (St. George), American advanced post at, 428 ; burnt, 428 ; history of, 428, 429, 430 ; anecdotes of, 430. Gerry, Elbridge, 70, 201. Gerrish, Thomas, 282. Geyer, Frederic, residence of, 389. Geyer, Nancy W., 390. Gibben's shipyard, location of, 419. Gibbs, Major Caleb (of Boston), 182. Gill, John (Edes and), imprisoned by Howe, 81. See Edes. Gilman, Arthur, 58. INDEX. 457 Glasgow, British frigate, 207, 208. Glass manufacture begun in Massa- cliusetts, 408. Godilard, Benjamin, 196. Godtlard, Nathaniel, 196. Golfe, General William, 55. Gooch, Captain, brave deed of, 373. Goodrich, Henry, 286. Goodwin, Benjamin, yard of, 180, 201, 204. Goodwin's Wharf, 202. Gordon, General Hugh McKay, 154. Gore, Governor Christopher, 39, 45, 72; defends Selfridge, 114, 190, 269 ; residence descri])ed, 279 ; sketch of, 279 ; personal appear- ance, 280 ; resides in Park Street, 352, 389. Gore Hall named, 280. Gore, Samuel, 72, 282, 314, 408. Gorges, Robert, 4. Gorham, Mr., residence of, 275. Gouch Street named, 373 ; noted for, 374. Gould and Lincoln, bookstore of, 402. Gould, John, 215. Government of Boston, 14. Government House. See Province House, 246. Governor's Alley, 64. Governor's Dock, location of, 114. Governor's Foot Guards. See Cadets. Governor's House. See Province House. Grafton, Duke of, 140. Grand Lodge occupy Old State House, 91. Granary, Constitution's sails made in, 182 ; the site of, 298 ; description and uses of, 299 ; removed, 299. Granary Burying-Ground, 54, 76, 204 ; Governor Cushing biiried in, 248, 289 ; history of, 296, 297, 298 ; noted persons buried in, 296, 297 ; Frank- lin cenotaph, 298 ; called South Burying-Ground, 298 ; Faneuiltomb, 296 ; victims of Boston Massacre buried in, 297 ; filled with bodies, 298 ; tombs erected in, 298 ; en- larged, 298 ; legends of, 298 ; stone 20 wall built, 298, 307, 323 ; Benjamin Woodbridge buried in, 332 ; Gov- ernor Eustis buried in, 366. Grant, Moses, 206, 282, 314. Grant, U. S., 10.5 ; .Tames, 243. Graupner's Hall, 394. Graves, Admiral Thomas, residence of, 272. Graves, Daniel, 206. Gray, Edward, 273. Gray, Harrison, 44, 245, 273 ; pro- scribed, 274 ; goes to London, 274. Gray, John, 273. Gray, Captain Robert, discoverer of Columbia River. Gray, Thomas, 38. Grav, William, 201, 324, 382. Gray's Wliarf, 201. Great Mall, The, 305, 306 ; first trees planted in, 306 ; description of, 306 ; trees cut down by British, 306 ; in cidents of, 310, 360. Greeley, Horace, 312. Green, Bartholomew, prints News Let- ter at, 82 ; residence, 98 ; printing- office, 392. Green Dragon Tavern, 64, 148, 149, 150. Green, Joseph, 33, GQ ; residence, 67 ; lampoons the Masons, 96 ; residence, 67, 414. Green, Jeremiah, 285. Green, John (and Russell) office, 76, 81. Green Lane (Salem Street), 153, 210. Green Lane. See Congress Street. Green, Samuel, innkeeper, 176. Green Street, 151; residents of, 372; church, 373. Green Store Battery, 425. Greene, Albert G, 300. Greene, Gardiner, 47 ; residence, 52, 53 ; President of the United States Bank, 94 ; Copley's agent, 336, 363, 389. Greene, General Nathaniel, C6, 144, 282, 310 ; to assault Boston, 359 ; commands in Boston, 382, 405. Greenleafs Gardens. See Washington Gardens. Greenleaf, Dr. John, 124. 458 INDEX. Greenleaf, Stephen, 304 ; residence, 313, 352. Greenleaf, William, reads Declaration of Independence, 91. Greenough, Henry, 247. Greenough, Richard S., 38, 57, 58, 226. Green's Barracks, 271. Greenwood, Ethan A., 42. Greenwood, Rev. F. W. P., 30, Greuze, 147. Gridley, Jeremy, 71, 314 ; residence, 402. Gridley, General Richard, at Bunker Hill, 208, 426 ; lays out works on Neck, 427. Griffin, Rev. Edward D., 301. Griffin's Wharf, 410. See Liverpool. Griggs, John, recollections of Boston Neck, 426. Grove Street, 370 ; Medical College in, 377. Growth and progress of Boston, 23. Gruchy, Captain, 200, 215. Guerriere, British frigate, 99, 188, 189, 190 ; flag of, 193. Guiccioli, Countess, 193. Gun-house, on Copp's Hill, 204 ; in Cooi)er Street, 223 ; attack on, 224 ; on Fort Hill, 288. Gun-house in West Street, 314 ; re- moval of guns from, 314 ; history of the guns Hancock and Adams, 315 ; one on tlie Common, 322 ; removed to Pleasant Street, 322. Gmi-house (Thacher Street), materials of, 375. Gunpowder Plot. See Pope Day, 149. H. Hackett, James H., first appearance in Boston, 368. Hagen, P. von, 303. Haley, Madam, 52. Half-Square Court, 98 ; Custom House in, 106. Halifax, Lord, 78. Halifax, N. S., 32; patriots carried to, 65. Hall, Captain James, 282. Hallowell, Benjamin, residence of, 148 ; assaulted, 170, 273, 285. Hallowell, Benjamin Carew, 148. Hallowell's shipyard, 275, 287. Hamilton, Alexander, 296 ; statue of, 344. Hamilton, Colonel, 355. Hamilton College, 381. Hamilton Place, 39 ; Manufactory House in, 301 ; built, 304. Hamilton Street, 286. Hammock, John, 215, Hancock, Ebenezer, Q6 ; office and residence, 144, 145. Hancock, frigate, 220. Hancock House, 141. Hancock, Governor John, 24, 40, 42, 43, 44, 49 ; house occupied by Per- cy, 53, 57, 69, 71 ; portrait by Trumbull, 73, 91, 110 ; gives a beU to Brattle Street Church, 122, 123, 124, 125 ; store, 129, 130 ; portrait, 140, 141 ; builds Hancock's Row, 144 ; Pope Day, 150 ; warehouses, 170, 176, 208, 214 ; address on Mas- sacre, 228, 233, 248 ; action to sup- press theatres, 261 ; gives bell and vane to Federal Street Chui'ch, 263 ; presides over Federal Convention, 264 ; widow, 264 ; commands Ca- dets, 293 ; commission revoked, 294 ; fireward, 295 ; tomb of, 296 ; funeral, 297, 308 ; anecdote of, 309 ; house, 338 ; extent of estate, 338, 339 ; description of mansion, 339, 340 ; pillaged, 340 ; quarters of General Clinton, 340 ; incidents of, 340, 341, 342 ; anecdotes of, 341 ; dies intestate, 341 ; sketch of, 341, 342 ; personal appearance, 343 ; 350 ; in- troduces music on Common, 359, 393 ; dinner to Rochambeau's offi- cers, 437. Hancock, John (son of Ebenezer), 349. Hancock, Lydia, residence of, 76 ; gives her mansion to Governor John, 338, 342. Hancock, Madam, anecdote of, 341. INDEX. 459 Hancock mansion, history of, 338 to MS ; ert'orts to preserve it, 341, 342 ; demolished, 342 ; Stamp Act repeal, 359, 362. Hancock's Row built, 144. Hancock School, 155. Hancock Street, named, 352 ; called George Street, 352. Hancock, Thomas, 76, 130, 163 ; his wharf, 170 ; fvmeral, 208 ; builds house on Beacon Street, 338, 342, 351. Hancock's Wliarf, description of, 170 ; events at, 170, 171 ; Lafayette lands at, 356. Handel, 32. Handel and Haydn Society, sketch of, 394 ; occupy Boylston Hall, 403. Hanover Avenue, 172. Hanover Church. See Beecher's Chi^rch. Hanover, Massachusetts, anchors of frigate Constitution made at, 182. Hanover Square, 396. Hanover Street, 10, 19, 25, 68, 70, 75, 130, 143, 144 ; widened, 145 ; Frank- lin's birthplace, 146 ; widened, 147 ; bridged, 152 ; a neck, 152, 161 ; Governor Hutchinson's gardens, 167, 172, 173. Hanover Street Church (Methodist), 415. Harper, Mr., 256. Harris, Isaac, 182 ; hoists flag over Constitution, 185 ; saves Old South, 233. Harris, Lord George, 203. Harris, Master, residence of, 161. Harris, Rev. ThaddeusM., anecdote of, 413. Harris Street, 175. Harrison Avenue, origin and descrip- tion of, 404, 405. Harrison, John, first rope-maker, 273 ; ropewalks, 273. Harrison, Joseph, Collector in 1770, 97 ; assaulted, 168 ; Richard Ack- lom, 170. Harrison, Peter, 29. Harrison, General W. H., 45, Harris's Folly, 281. Hart, Zeplianiah, 180. Hartford Convention, 44, 295. Hartly, Mr., Ife2, 197. Hartt^ Edward, 180. Hartt, Edmund, 180 ; residence, 181, 196 ; buried, 206. Hartt's Naval Yard, 181, 183, 195, 196, 197. Hartt, Ralph, 180. Harvard College, 33, 84 ; Rumford Professorship, 87, 103, 160 ; Gore Hall named, 280. Harvard Place, 270. Haskell, S., innkeeper, 398. Hatch, Israel, iimkeeper, 96 ; adver- tisement, 399. Hatch, Mrs., 307. Hatch's Tavern, location of, 313. Hatters' Square, 145. Haverhill Street, 378. Hawkins's Shipyard, 175. Hawkins Street, 371. Hawkins, Thomas, 175; shipyard, 178. Hawthorne, Nathaniel, description of Old Prison, 77 ; invocation to Town Pump, 84 ; Scarlet Letter, 92 ; Le- gends of Province House, 235. Hay, Theodocia, 206. Haymarket, The, 313, 322. Haymarket Square, 151. Haymarket Theatre, site of, 313, 317 ; opening and description of, 318. Hayne, Robert Young, 45. Hays, Catherine, 293. Hay-scales. See Haj-market. Hayward, Dr. Lemuel, residence of, 392. Hayward, John, Postmaster of Boston, 104. Havward Place named, 393. Healey, G. P. A., 140. Heart and Crown, 146, 234. Heath, General William, 40, 144, 145, 231, 267 ; commands in Boston, 383 ; headcpiarters, 383. Henchman, Captain Daniel, 200 ; ac- credited with planting the Great Elm, 331. Henchman, Colonel Daniel, residence 460 INDEX. of, 76 ; builds first paper-mill, 76 ; store, 85, 137. Henchman's Lane, 199, 200. Hercule, French ship, 437. Hermione, French frigate, 356. Hewes, George R. T., residence of, 269 ; Tea Party, 282, 283. Hewes, Shubael, butcher-shop of, 270. Hibbins, Anne, 53 ; executed, 330. Hibbins, William, 53. Hichborn, Benjamin, residence and sketch of, 250 ; commands Cadets, 294. Higginson, Francis, portrait of, 346. Higginson, Stephen, 196. Higginson, Stephen, Jr., 196. High Street, 37, 46, 272 ; called Cow Lane, 273 ; affray in, 274 ; described, 280. Hill, Aaron, Postmaster, 269. Hill, Thomas, 406. Hillier's Lane (Brattle Street), 71. Hillsborough, Lord, 249, 398. Hills Wharf, 127. Hinckley, David, residence of, 362 ; tra- gic incident connected with, 363. Historic Genealogical Society, 364 ; origin and sketch of, 365 ; building and library, 365. Historical Society, Massachusetts, 39, 40, 141 ; relics of Hutchinson in, 167 ; of Province House, 247 ; in Franklin Street, 255 ; Speaker's Desk and Winslow's chair, 347. Hodgkinson, Mr., 256, Hodson, Thomas, 351, 352. Holbrook, Abraham, 314. Holland's Coffee House, 50. Holley, Rev. Horace, 415. Hollis Strjeet, British works near, 328, 411 ; originally called Harvard, 414 ; great fire in, 416. Hollis Street Church, 102, 103. Hollis Street Church, history of, 414, 415, 416 ; Stamp Act celebration, 414; burnt, 414 ; removed to Brain- tree, 415 ; tablets in, 416 ; fire of 1787, 416 ; troops quartered in, 416. Hollis, Thomas, Hollis Street named for, 414. Holmes, Francis, innkeeper, 105. Holmes, Dr. 0. W., 65, 192. See Hub of the Universe. Holy Cross Cathedral, site and sketch of, 255, 256 ; removal, 256. Holyoke, Edward A., 39 ; residence, 159. Holyoke Street. See Tremont. Home of Little Wanderers, 222. Homer, B. P., residence of, 338. Hood, Lord, 310. Hood, Thomas, 94. Hooper, Rev. William, 374. Hooten, John, 283. Hopkintou, Sir Charles Frankland's estate at, 162. Horn Lane. See Bath Street. Horse Pond, 329. Horticultural Building, 294. Horticultural Hall, 42 ; statues on, 344. Hospital Life Insurance Company founded, 317, 377. Hotel Boylston, site of J. Q. Adams's residence, 319. Hotel Pelham, 313. Houchin's Corner, 70. House of Correction, site of, 299 ; in Leverett Street, 375 ; at South Bos- ton, 375. House of Industry, 376. Hovey and Company, 389. How, Edward C, 282. Howard, Captain Anthony, 25. Howard Athenaeum, 40 ; site, 366. See Millerite Tabernacle ; opening, 368 ; burnt, 368 ; rebuilt and sketch of, 368. Howard, John, 48. Howard, S., 283. Howard, Simeon, 374. Howard Street, 47 ; (Southack's Court), 48, 49. Howe, Lord George, monument erected to, 241. Howe, Sir William, 65, 69 ; at Bunker Hill, 70, 86, 90 ; arrival in Boston, 125, 127, 136, 160, 177, 207, 208, 225 ; residence, 236 ; at council of Avar, 243 ; sketch of, 244 ; addi-ess before battle of Bunker HHl, 245, 246; INDEX. 461 quarters of, 271, 373 ; stops destruc- tion of trees on Common, 306, 382, 432. Hub of the Universe, Dr. Holmes ori- ginates the saying. 344. Hubbard, Deacon, 231. Hubbard, Thomas, residence, 389. Hubbard, Tuthill, Postmaster of Bos- ton, 104. Hudson, Francis, 202. Hudson's Point, 5 ; (Mylne Point), 24 ; named, 202. Hull, 116. Hull, General, Lafayette visits, 364. Hull, Hannah, 204 ; anecdote of, 212. Hull, Commodore Isaac, at Exchange Coffee House, 99 ; anecdotes of, 99, 100, 139, 185, 186, 188, 189, 190, 192, 194, 197, 290. Hull, John, 51, 52, 204, 211 ; estab- lishes mint, 212 ; supposed residence of, 296. Hull Street, 204 ; named, 211. Humphries, General David, 100, 364. Humphries, Mrs. General, residence of, 364. Humphries, Joshua, designs frigate Constitution, 182, 192. Hunnewell, Jonathan, 283. Humiewell, Richard, 283. Hunnewell, Richard, Jr., 283. Himt, William M., 141. Huntington, General, 364. Hurd, Mr., assists in planting trees of Great Mall, 306. William, 283. Hurdley, William, 282. Hutchinson, Anne, 51, 62 ; trial and banishment of, 63, 226. Hutchinson, Edward, residence of, 171, 200. Hutchinson Street. See Pearl Street. Hutchinson, Thomas (Elder), 163, 164; residence of, 168, 175 ; buried, 207 ; gives land for school-house, 219. Hutchinson, Governor Thomas, 31, 40, 63, 90, 102, 122, 125, 158 ; residence of, 166 ; sacked, 166 ; description, 167 ; sails for England, 167 ; house built, 168 ; suceeeds Spencer Phips, 211, 223, 230, 233, 236, 240, 241, 267, 271, 278, 293, 308, 347, 399. 413. lasigi, Mr.. 344. Inches, Henderson, 125 ; ropewalks of, 329. Independent Cadets, march to Rhode Island, 250 ; quarters and sketch of, 293 ; disbanded, 294 ; reorganized, 294 ; escort Lafayette, 355. Independent Chronicle, enterprise of, 433. India Street, 109, 110 ; built. 111. India Wharf, 111. Indians, Eastern, 8. Indian Hill, West Newbury, 247. Ingersoll, Joseph, imikeeper, 42, 105, 122. Ingollson, Daniel, 283. Insurance Office, first, 107. Ipswich, 57. Irving, Mr., 170. Island of Boston, 152. J. Jackson, Andrew, 95 ; visits Boston, 139, 183, 185,192, 193, 194 ; head of, 195 ; at Tremont House, 290, 373. Jackson, Judge Charles, 100. Jackson, Dr., residence of, 365. Jackson, General Henry, 182 ; anec- dote of his regiment, 430. Jackson, James, 38, 61. Jackson, Hon. Jonathan, 43. Jacobs, Mr., 322. Jamaica Pond, 23. James I., 50. James II., 34, 237. Jarvis, Leonard, 293. Jarvis, Rev. Samuel P., 311. Jason, American ship, 220. Java, frigate, 190. Jefferson, Thomas, 126 ; his embargo, 279 ; opinion of Samuel Adams, 308, 319. Jeffrey (and Russell) purchase North Battery, 177. 462 INDEX. Jeffrey, Patrick, estate of, 25 ; Scollay's Building erected by, 75, 76. Jeffrey's Wharf, 177. See North Bat- tery. Jeffries, Dr. John, recognizes War- ren's body, 69 ; buried, 296, 363. Jekyll, John, 50. Jenks, Rev. William, 57, 219; his church and residence, 373. Jenkins, Robert, 215. Johnson, Lady Arabella, 35. Johnson, Edward, 3 ; description of Boston, 17. Johnson Hall, 59. Johnson, Isaac, 10 ; his location, 35, 52, 59, 23 i. Jclinson, Samuel, 193. Joliffe's Lane. See Devonshire Street. Jones, Inigo, 369. Jones, Commodore Jacob, 186, 193. Jones, John Coffin, 124 ; residence of, 148, 253, 389. Jones, John Paul, sails from Boston in French fleet, 437. Jones, Margaret, hung, 320. Jones, Mrs., 256. Jones, Thomas Kilby, Morton Place named for, 253. Jonson, Ben, 61. Jossleyn, John, 17, 21. Joy, Benjamin, 196, 385. Joy, Dr. John, 333 ; shop and resi- dence, 338. Joy Street, 338. Joy's Buildings, corner Congress and Water, 37, 109 ; Washington Street, 84. Julien Hall, 277. Julien House (" Restorator "), site and sketch of, 270, 271. Julien, Jean Baptiste, residence of, 270 ; dies, 271 ; widow succeeds him, 271. Junon, British frigate, 191. Kean, Charles, 258. Kean, Edmund, first plays in Boston, 257 ; second visit and riot, 257 ; anec- dote of, 258. Keayne, Captain Robert, 58 ; house, 88, 137, 300. Keith, Colonel, 383. Keith, Lieutenant Robert, 221. Kendrick, Captain John, 254. Kennedy, Timothy, murdered, 424. Kent, Benjamin, 269. Kent, Duke of, in Boston, 390. Kemble, Thomas, 13, 162. Kidd, William, imprisoned in Boston Jail, 77 ; piracies, arrest and execu- tion, 77, 78. Kilby, Christopher, residence of, 272 ; Kilby Street named for, 272. Kilby Street, 23, 41, 105 ; description of, 109 ; Stamp Office in, 110 ; named, 272 ; filled, 288. Kimball, Moses, 42. King Philip, 40 ; Philip's War, 5, 83, 331. King, Rufus, 82, 269. King, Thomas Starr, sketch of, 415. Kingman, Edward, innkeeper, 392. King's Arms. See George Tavern. King's Chapel, 28, 29 ; architect of, 29 ; history of, 30 ; description of Old Chapel, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35 ; tombs under, 36, 46, 56, 61 ; Warren's re- mains deposited in, 69, 163 ; Gov- ernor Burnet attends, 239 ; Governor Shirley buried under, 267 ; over- crowded, 385 ; royal gifts to, 386, 394, 416. King's Chapel Burying-Ground, 32, 35 ; legends of, 36 ; interments cease in, 36, 37, 204, 205, 206 ; Gov- ernor Wintlirop buried in, 226, 228 ; filled with bodies, 298 ; tombs erected in, 298, 323. King's Head Tavern, site of, 168. King Street, 55, 60 ; Andrew Faneuil's warehouse, 64 ; changed to State, 89 ; called Congre s, 89 ; full of dwellings, 98 ; lower end in 1708, 108 ; great tide of 1723, 109 ; Gov- ernor Shirley resident in, 239. Kinnison, David, 283. Kirk, Edward N., 50. INDEX. 463 Kirk, Tlaomas, 170. Kirkland, Jolin T., 38, 100 ; residence, 3bl. Kirkland, Samuel, 381. Kiiapj), Josiah, dwelling of, 419. Kneeland, Samuel, printing-office of, 79 ; prints Boston Gazette, 79, 80. Kneeland Street occupied by a wharf, 419. Knight, Sarah, 162. Knox, General Henry, shop of, 85 ; anecdotes of, 85, 86 ; portrait, 141, 158 ; marries, 271 ; estate at Thomas- ton, 272, 281, 315 ; occupies Copley's house, 336. Kupfer, Charles F., 408. L. Laboratory, British, on Griffin's Wharf, 284 ; American, 322 ; an- other, 322. Labouchiere visits Boston, 341, 367. Lafayette, G. W., resides in Boston, 278. Lafayette Hotel, 398. Lafayette, Marquis de, 45 ; anecdote of, 97 ; in Boston, 105, 124 ; at Faneuil Hall, 138, 139 ; at Boston Theatre, 259, 265, 278 ; streets named for, 316, 341 ; reception in 1824, 345, 346 ; in 1825, 346 ; resi- dence in 1824, 352, 396 ; fire of 1787, 416 ; incidents of his recep- tion, 354, 355 ; anecdotes of, 355, 356, 357, 363, 364, 382. Lamb, Charles, 128. Lambert, Captain, 190. Lamb Tavern, site and history of, 392. Lameth, Alexander de, 433. La Nymphe, British frigate, 191. La Rochelle, 54. Lathrop, Rev. John, 160 ; residence, 168 ; buried, 296. Latin School (South), 33, 44, 54, 56, 57, 72, 75, 136 ; FrankUu goes to, 146. Latin School Street, 56. Laud, Archbishop, 50. Lauzun, Duke de, cavalry of, descrip- tion of, 435 ; incident of his execu- tion, 436 ; legion of, 435. Lavoisier, 87. Lawrence, 121. Lawrence, Abbott, 46, 120, 121, 322 ; residence, 357. Lawrence, Amos, shop of, 120 ; resi- dence, 316. Lawrence Scientific School, 121. Laws, curious old, 12, 15. Learned, Colonel Ebenezer, first to en- ter Boston after the evacuation, 432. Leather Street, 280. Le Berceau, frigate, 196, 197. Lechmere's Point, 25. Lee, American schooner, 220. Lee, Arthur, 252. Lee, General Charles, 125, 425. Lee, Joseph, 282. Lee, Thomas, residence of, 173. Lee, William, entertains Talleyrand, 141. Le Kain, Mrs., residence of, 275. Le Mercier Andre, 64. Leonard, Mr., opens National Theatre, 378. Les Deux Anges, 196. Levant, frigate, 186 ; captured, 191 ; flag of, 193. Levasseur, M., 356. Leverett, Governor John, 82 ; resi- dence, S3, 102, 156, 174 ; portrait of, 346. Leverett's Lane, 101 ; John F. Wil- liams resides in, 264. See Congress Street. Leverett Street, 151 ; Almshouse re- moved to, 300, 370 ; jail in, 374. Leverett Street Jail, debtors confined in, 375 ; executions in, 375. Leverett, Elder Thomas, 101 ; owaied site of exchange, 101. Lewis, Samuel S., 128. Lexington, 44, 53 ; battle of, 137. Lexington expedition planned, 242 ; thwarted, 243. Lev, Lord, in Boston, 109. Liberty Hall, 397, 398. 464 INDEX. Liberty sloop (Hancock's), seizure of, 170. Liberty Square, 109 ; made ground, 109 ; Stamp Office in, 110 ; named for and celebration of Civic Feast in, 110 ; burnt over, 272. Liberty Tree planted, 331 ; arch erected on site of, 354 ; Stamp Act repeal, 359. Liberty Tree, site of, 396 ; planted, 397 ; cut down, 397 ; effigies hung on, 399 ; events under, 399, 400, 401 ; Liberty stump and pole, 398. Liberty Tree Tavern, 398. Light Infantry Company, 294. Lighthouse (tavern). The, 26. Lighting the streets, 22. Lincoln, Abraham, 141. Lincoln, Earl of, 35. Lincoln, Enoch, 388. Lincoln, General Benjamin, first United States Collector of Boston, 103, 105 ; expedition to Nantasket, 116 ; commands troops in Shays's Kebellion, 361. Lincoln, Governor Levi, 346. Lincoln, L^vi, Sr., 388 ; Levi, the younger, 388. Lincoln, Martha, incident of her de- cease, 388. Lincolnshire, England, 6. Lind, Jenny, 40, 293, 371, 394. Lindall Street, 267. Lindel's Rov^r, Mrs. Pelham's shop, 372. L'Insurgente, frigate, 171. Linzee, Captain, sword of, 40, 334. Lion Tavern, site and history of, 394. Lion Theatre, opening and sketch of, 394. Lisbon, earthquake at, 162, 163. Little, Captain George, 196 ; court- martialled, 197. Little Wild Street, London, 58. Little, William, residence of, 168. Livingstone, Robert, assists in fitting out^ Captain Kidd, 77, 78. Livingstone, Robert, 193. Liverpool Wharf, 230 ; the Tea Party, 281 ; barracks and laboratory on, 284. Lloyd, Dr. James, residence of, 363. Lloyd, James, residence of, 363 ; en- tertains Lafayette, 363. Lloyd, Mrs. James, residence of, 355. London Bookstore, 107. London Packet, 170. London Stone, 144. Long Acre. See Tremont Street. Long Island, 116. Long Island (New York,) search on, for Kidd's treasure, 78. Long Wharf, incident of, 100, 112 ; history of, 114, 115 ; events con- nected with, 115, 116 ; embarkation of British troops from, 116, 117, 327 ; first locomotive landed from England, 411. Lord Ashburton. See Alexander Bar- ing. Lord, James, Collector of Boston, 142. Loring, James S., 65, 314. Loring, Matthew, 283. Lothrop, Rev. Samuel K., 76, 123. Loudon, Lord, 310. Louisburg, 115, 137. Louisburg Square, statues in, 344. Louis Pliilippe (Due de Chartres), in Boston, 100, 101 ; residence of, in Boston, 145. Louis XVI., 58, 110, 145 ; portrait by Stuart, 408. Lovell, James, 65 ; Collector of Bos- ton, 142 ; residence of, 277, 373. Lovell, Master John, 44, 57, 65 ; eulo- gy on Peter Faneuil, 136, 245. Love Lane. See Tileston Street, 218. Love, Susannah, 218. Low, John, innkeeper, 287. Lowell, Rev. Charles, 316. Lowell, Francis Cabot, establishes cotton factories, 316 ; city of Lowell named for, 316. Lowell Institute founded, 316. Lowell, Judge John, 316. Lowell, John, 32 ; residence of, 316 ; called " Boston Rebel," 317, 389. Lowell, John, Jr., founds Lowell In- stitute, 316. INDEX. 465 Lucas, Sarah, 206. Ludlow, Charles, 186. Ludlow, Mr., 15. Lvman, Theodore, St., 49, 196, 371, '389. Lyman, General Theodore, 356. Lynch, General, 433. Lyndhurst, Lord, 52, 53 ; revisits Boston, 336. Lynde Street, 370. Lynn, 25 ; remains of Quakers re- moved to, 268. Lynn Street, 198 ; ancient arch in, 199, 200 ; origin of, 219. M. Macdonough, Thomas, 186. Macedonian, frigate, 197. Mackay, William, 269. Mackerel Lane (Kilby Street), 105. Mackintosh, Captain," 397, 399. Macready, W. C, first appearance in Boston, 259, 394. Madison, James, 105. Magaw, Robert, 373. Magnalia, Mather's, 4. Magnifique, French seventy-four, lost in Boston harbor, 180, 437. Main-guard, British, 90. Main Street, 22. Malbone, Edward G., residence of, 353. Malcom, Captain Daniel, 207. Manley, Captain John, captures by, 220 ; dies, 220. Mann, Horace, statue of, 345. Manners and customs, 11, 12. Manufactory House, 39 ; site, 301 ; description of, 302, 303, 304 ; excise laid on carriages in support of, 302 ; attempt to occupy it by troops, 303 ; Massachusetts Bank in, 303 ; build- ing sold, 303 ; occupied by wounded, 203, 303, 313. Marbleliead, stage to, 26 ; Frankland's courtship, 162 ; Constitution chased into, 187. Marbury, Rev. Francis, 63. 20* Margaret Street, 218. Marion, Joseph, establishes first insur- ance ofl[ice, 107. Marion, sloop-of-war, 185. Market Dock, 127. See Town Dock. Market Place, first, 89 ; in 1708, 127. Market Square, 132. Market Street (New Cornhill), built, 76. Marlborough Hotel, 225 ; dinner to Lafayette, 364. Marlborough, John, Duke of, street named for, 225, 237. Marlborough Street named, 225, 235 ; new location of, 271, 385 ; named Washington Street, 420. Marquis of Lome, 272. Marston, Captain John, innkeeper, 105, Marshall, John, Chief Justice, 38. Marshall Street, 143. Marshall, Thomas, 24, 202. Marshall Wyzeman opens Eagle Thea- tre, 378 ; opens theatre in Boylston Hall, 404. Marshfield, 46. Martin, Mr., 283. Martin, Mrs., 389. Mascarene, Jean Paul, 60. Mason, Jonathan, 335. Mason, Jonathan, Jr., 389. Mason, Lowell, 259. See Odeon. Mason Street, Hatch's Tavern in, 313 ; South Writing-School in, 314 ; Med- ical College in, 317 ; boundary of Common, 296. Masonic Temple (old), description of, 312 ; Alcott's school, 312. Masonic Temple (new), 318, 319. Massachusetts Bank, site of British Coffee House, 108 ; first location, 303. Massachusetts cent, description and history of, 423. Massachusetts Charitable Fire Society, 266. Massachusetts Company, 47. Massachusetts Constitutional Conven- tion, 45. Massachusetts Frigate built, 179. DD 466 INDEX. Massachusetts General Hospital, in- corporated and endowed, 247, 317 ; site and history of, 376, 377 ; ether first used in, 376. Massachusetts Historical Society, 5. Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Company, 384. Massachusetts Indians, 2, 8. Massachusetts Medical College in Ma- son Street, description, 317 ; in Grove Street, 376 ; Parkman murder, 378. Massachusetts Mechanics' Charitable Association, first meetings of, 71, 120, 147 ; early meetings, 149, 181 ; build Revere House, 371. Massachusetts Spy printed, 223 ; re- moved to Worcester, 223 ; different locations of, 391 ; enterprise of, 433. Massachusetts Volunteers (Mexican war), entry of, into Boston, 333. Mather, Cotton, 4, 8, 57, 160 ; res- idence of, 161, 162 ; portrait of, 372. Mather, Hannah. See Crocker, 175. Mather, Rev. Increase, 65, 80, 160 ; res- idence, 161 ; house burnt, 169 ; agent, 210, 391. Matlier, Rev. Richard, 160, 412. Mather, Samuel, 160 ; residence, 161, 162 ; protects Governor Hutchinson, l&Q ; pastor of First Universalist Church, 172. Matignon, Rev. Father, 255. Mathews' Block, 175. Matoonas, shot, 331, Matthews, Cliarles, 403, Matthews Street, 280. Maverick Church, 416. Maverick, Samuel, 13, 174. May, John, residence of, 171. Mayhew, Rev. Jonathan, 118, 374. Maynard, J. E., stables of, 371. Mcintosh, Mr., 283. McLean Asylum, 377. McLean, Jolin, residence, 307 ; anec- dote of, 307 ; bequest to Hospital, 377. McLean Street, 376. McLellan, Mr., 364, McMurtie, Mr, 276. McNeil, Captain, 196, Mears, Samuel, innkeeper, 286, 428, Medal voted to Washington, 432. Mein, John, establishes first circulat- ing library, 106 ; sliop, 197, Melodeon, sketch of, 394, Melvill, Thomas, Tea Party, 282; preserves small bottle of the tea, 283 ; residence and sketch of, 372, 373, 406. Melville, Herman, 372. Melyne's Corner, 289. Mercantile Library, 278, Mercer, Captain George, 62. Merchants' Bank, 94. See United States Bank. Merchants' Exchange, present, corner- stone laid, 278. Merchants' Hall, site and use of, as Post-Oflice and Exchange, 269, Mercliants' Row, named, 108 ; first house of entertainment in, 108, 109, 110, 112 ; Triangular Warehouse in, 131. Meriam, William, innkeeper, 287. Merry's Point, 176. Merry, Walter, his point, 176. Messinger, Colonel, 139 ; shop, 393, 394. Methodist Alley, See Hanover Avenue, 173, Metropolitan Place, 419. Metternich, Prince, 321. Mexican war, 333, Mexican Volunteers, quarters of, 379 ; neglect and abuse of, 379 ; their flag, 379. Miantonimoh in Boston, 108. Middle Street (Hanover), 153. Miildlecott Street, 370. See Bowdoin. Middlesex Canal, 24, 152. Mifflin, Thomas, 116, 220, 429. Miles, Mrs., Governor Eustis lodges with, 365. Military Company of the Massachu- setts. See Ancient and Honorable Artillery, 137. Milk, John, 206. Milk, Mrs., 287. Milk Street, 10 ; Museum in, 41 ; Post- INDEX. 467 Office in, 104, 105 ; inhabitants re- moved, 227 ; route of Tea Party, 230 ; Province House opposite, 235 ; ancient Fort Street, description of, 251, 264 ; notable residents of, 271 ; great fire in, 272. Mill Bridge, 149, 152. Mill Creek, 127, 131, 132 ; bridged, 151 ; description of, 152 ; a canal, 152. Mill Dam, 25. Miller, William, 367. Mill Field. See Copp's Hill. Mill Pond, 7, 8, 10, 126, 127, 145 ; de- scription of, 150, 151, 152 ; filled up, 152 ; Baptist Church on, 222 ; Beacon Hill used for filling, 350, 369 ; Theatre on site of, 378. Mill Pond Corporation, 151. Milmore, Martin, 344. Milton, first paper-mill in colony at, 76. Milton Place, 268. Minot's Building, 402. Minot, George Richards, 39, 264. Minot, George, 315 ; anecdote of, 431. Minot, John, 431. Minot, Stephen, petition of, 430. Minot, William, 320 ; office, 402. Minot Street, 375. Minott, Stephen, 114. See Tea Wliarf, 115. Mint, established by Massachusetts, 422 ; site of, 423. Molesworth, Captain Ponsonby, 97. Molineux, William, 282, 302 ; resi- dence and sketch of, 357. Monck, George, innkeeper, 122. Monroe, James, visit to Boston of, 100, 319. Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 103. Montague, W. (Admiral), anecdotes of, 75, 283. Montague, W. H., 69, 365. Montague, Rev. William, 217 ; the bullet which killed Warren, 218 ; anecdote of, 414. Montgomery Place, 294. Monument (Beacon Hill), 349 ; history and description of, 350, 351 ; inscrip- tions, 350, 351 ; rebuilding author- ized, 352, 370. Moon Street, 159 ; Samuel Mather, a resident of, .161, 166 ; Sun Tavern in, 287. Moore, Peggy, tavern of, 404. Moore, Thomas, 283. Moorhead, Rev. John, 263. Moreau, General, 139 ; funeral l 320 ; visit to Boston, 320 ; resi dence, 321 ; returns to Europe, 321 ; death, 321. Morgan, General Daniel, incident of battle of Stillwater, 327. Morris, Commodore Charles, 99, 186. Moi-ris, Gouverneur, anecdote of, 429. Morrison, Rev. Dr., 124. Morse, Jedediah, 8 ; humorous de- scription of Albany, 422. Morse, S. F. B., 277. Morton, Joseph, innkeeper, 393. Morton, Marcus, 253. Morton, Perez, residence of, 113, 393 ; last of the barristers, 403 ; district- attorney, 424. Morton Place named, 253. Morton, Thomas, 2. Morton, W. T. G., office where ether was first applied, 366 ; curious state- ment about the ether discovery, 366. Mount Auburn Chapel, statue of Win- throp in, 226. Mountfort, Col. John, 221. Jos., 283. Mountfort's Corner, 158. Mount Hoardam. See Mount Ver- non. Mountjoy's Corner, 158. Mount Vernon proprietors, 4 ; use first railway in New England, 325. Mount Wollaston, 2, 14. Mount Vernon Place, 339. Mount Vernon Street, 338, 340 ; called Sumner and Olive Street, 352. Mount Vernon, 6 ; called JNIount Hoar- dam, 329. Mower, Samuel, 206. Mu(hly River, 14. Munroe, W., innkeeper, 248. Murdoch, James E., 404. Muhlenburg, General, 356. 468 INDEX. Murray, General James, 327. Murray, Rev. John, 172. Museum, Boston, 38, 40, 41, 294 ; Co- lumbian, 41 ; burnt, 41, 42 ; New England, 42, 74 ; New York, 42 ; Mix's New Haven, 42 ; Wood's Mar- ket, 132 ; New England, 132. Musgrave, Philip, Postmaster of Bos- ton, 79. Music Hall, 294 ; one in Brattle Street, 307, 394. Mushawomuk, 3. Myles Standish expedition to Boston Bay, 2 ; costume, 11 ; sword of, 40. Mylne Point (Hudson's), 24. Mylne Street. Se.e Summer Street. Mystic, 8 ; River, 2, K Nancy, British ordnance brig, captured, 220. Nantasket Road, British lieet in, 65, 75, 115. Napoleon Bonaparte, 139, 141 ; Mos- cow campaign, 320, 321. Napoleon, Louis, in Boston, 101. Nason, Elias, 145, 162. Nassau Street, description of, 412. National Lancers, 379. National Theatre, history of, 378. Naval Academy (Annapolis), 193 ; established, 385. Naval Rendezvous, North Square, 159. Neal, Daniel, 16. Neck, Tlie, 7, 10, 21, 23, 24, 25, 43, 94, 214 ; Governor Burnet's reception, 238, 244 ; cathedral on, 256 ; Earl Percy's troops march over, 304 ; lines on, 328 ; retreat of the British from, 416 ; description of, 418, 419 ; early condition of, 419 ; road over, 419, 420 ; paved, 420, 421 ; dikes built to protect, 420 ; dreary aspect of, 421 ; a resort for sportsmen, 421 ; fenced in, 421 ; houses on, 421 ; brickyards, 422 ; guard stationed on, 424 ; forti- fied, 424 ; British works on, 425, 426 ; partly demolislied, 426 ; American works, 427 ; taverns on, 428, 429, 430 ; entry of American and French armies, 432 to 437. Nelson, Horatio, Lord, 186. Neptune, French ship, 437. Nereide, French ship, 437. Nesbitt, Colonel, 229. New Boston, 10. Newbury Street, 20 ; new location of, 291 ; residents of, 391 ; named Washington, 420. New England Bank, 105. New England flag, description of, 179. New England Guards, 191 ; in 1812, 322 ; survivors, 322. New England House, 132. New England Journal, 8. New Exhibition Room (Board Alley), opening of, 261 ; bill of first per- formance, 261. New Fields. See West Boston. New Guinea, 199. New Haven, 55, 57. Newman, Henry, residence of, 291. Newman, Captain Samuel, 221. New North Church, 155 ; site and sketch of, 173, 416. Newport, R. I., 9, 19, 29. New South Church, 228 ; site and his- tory of, 380, 381. News Letter, where published, 82, 104. New State House first occupied, 91. Newton, Thomas, 32. New York, 22. Nichols, Colonel Richard, 174. Nicholson, Captain Samuel, 182, 184, 186, 187, 221. Niles's Block, 60. Noah's Ark, 175, See Ship Tavern. Noddle's Island, 13, 14, 23, 56 ; Bap- tists meet on, 222 ; works erected in 1814, 247 ; garrisoned, 322, 418. Norfolk County Road, 27. Norman, John, publishes first direc- tory, 110 ; office, 145. North Allen Street, 377. North American Review, first number of, 304. INDEX. 469 North Battery, 116 ; history of, 176, 177 ; sold, 177 ; armament, 177. North Bemiet Street, Methodist Chapel in, 172. Nortli Burying- Place. See Copp's Hill. North Carolina, white slavery in, 14. North Church, 19. North End, 10, 19, 25, 26, 27, 68, 143 ; three streets wide, 152 ; British troops in, 158 ; patriotism of and famous residents in, 220, 221, 222 ; draft riot in, 223. North End Cotiee House, site of, 171. North Grammar Schools, 218. North Latin School, 218. North Latin School Street. See Ben- net Street. North Margin Street, 150. North Market Street, 105 ; Triangular Warehouse in, 131. North Mills, 151. North Row, location of, 371. North Square, 130 ; description of, 156 to 170 ; rendezvous for tooops, 158 ; barracks in, 168 ; Bethel Church in, 169; fire of 1676, 169. 198. North Street, 7, 26, 127 ; Wood's Museum in, 132 ; drawbridge at, 152. North Street (Hanover), 153. Northumberland, Duke of, 407 ; lodg- ings in Boston, 410. Northumberland, French ship, 437. North Writing School, 218. Norton, Mrs., 227. Noyes, Oliver, builds Long Wharf 114. Oak of Reformation, 398. Obbatinewat, 2. Ochterlony, Sir David, residence of, 153, 154. O'Connor, Captain, 283. Odeon. See Boston Theatre, 259. Orange Street, 21, 102 ; extent and name, 401 ; description, 420 ; named Washington, 420 ; paved, 421. Old Brick Church. See First Church. Orations of the Cincinnati in, 105, 155 ; Washington attends, 432. Old buildings, one corner Sun Court and Moon Streets, 159. Old Burying-Place (King's Chapel Yard), 35, 55, 56. Old Cocked Hat in Dock Square, his- tory and description of, 132, 133. Old Corner (Court and Tremont), Ed- ward Webster's Company enlisted, 379. Old Corner Bookstore, 62. Old Drury. See Boston Theatre, 256. Old Fortifications, 420, 421 ; erected, 424 ; history of, 424 ; armament, 424 ; garrison, 425. Old Market House, 130, 133. Old North Church, location and his- tory of, 160 ; burnt, 169 ; Sir Wil- liam Phips attends, 210, 218. Old Prison. See Boston Jail. Old South Block, 253. Old South Church, 22, 30 ; keys de- manded by Andros, 34, 35, 52, 148, 182, 213 ; Dr. Blagden resigns pas- torate of, 220 ; history and descrip- tion of, 227, 228; Lady Andros's funeral, 228 ; Warren's Address in, 229 ; Tea Party Meeting, 230 ; occu- pation by British troops, 231, 232, 329 ; tablet, 228 ; clock, 234, 244, 282, 348 ; Governor Eustis's funeral, 366, 392, 416. Old State House, 34, 43 ; used as Town House, 58, 59 ; history and description of, 89, 90, 91 ; Court House, 90 ; alterations, 91 ; pro- posal to build the United States Bank on site of, 94 ; Post-Office in, 105 ; Selfridge killed near, 114 ; first market on site of, 130 ; rendezvous of Ancient and Honorable Artillery, 138, 210, 238 ; monument to Wolfe, 241 ; Federal Convention assembled in, 263, 293 ; Speaker's desk, 347 ; descrijition of Council Chamber, 347, .391, 431. Old Stone House (Cross Street), de- scription of, 154, 155. 470 INDEX. Old Way, The, 151. Old Wliarf. See Barricado. Olive Street. See Mount Vernon. Oliver, Governor Andrew, 267, 273 ; residence, 278 ; mobbed, 278 ; dies, 278 ; sketch of, 278, 279 ; hung in effigy, 399 ; resigns office of Stamp- Master, 400. Oliver's Dock, 109 ; named for, 110 ; scene of destruction of Stamp-Office, 110. Oliver, Peter, 110 ; leaves Boston, 278. Oliver Place, 409. Oliver Street, 41 ; named, 271 ; paved, 272 Oliver, Thomas, residence of, 234. Orange Tree Lane, 68. Orange Tree (tavern), 25, 70. Orne, Azor, 341. Osgood, James R., and Company, 304. Ostinelli, Mr., 291. Ostinelli, Eliza, debut of, 368. Otis, Harrison Gray, 14 ; law office, 44 ; anecdotes of, 46, 47, 57, 124, 190 ; first public speech, 256 ; op- poses theatres, 261, 336 ; residence, 337. Otis, James, 44 ; residence, 60, 71, 76, 89, 133, 135, 148, 149, 248, 252, 253, 269, 351, 402. Otis Street, American headquarters, 383 ; Sir William Pepperell's estate, 384. Oxenbridge, John, 35, 55 ; house, 56. Oxford, Loid, 78. P. Paddy's Alley, 153. Paddock, Adino, 26 ; names Long Acre, 289 ; residence, 294 ; plants trees in Long Acre, 294 ; Captain of Artillery, 295 ; intends surrender- ing his guns, 314 ; intention frus- trated, 314. Paddock's Mall, history of, 294, 295, 360. Paige, E., and Company, innkeepeis 105. Paine, Nathaniel, 237. Paine, Robert Treat, 57 ; residence, 265 ; died, 265, 267 ; sketch of, 266. Paine, Thomas (R. Treat, Jr.), writes prize address for Federal Street Thea- tre, 256 ; sketch of 266. Painter's Arms, description of, 144. Palfrey, Rev. J. G., 123, 355. Palmer, Edward, 15, 34. Jos., 283. Palmer, Mr., residence of, 277. Pantheon Hall. See Boylston. Paper Currency, 237. Park Square, 322. Park Street, 148, 299 ; Workhouse and Bridewell in, 299 ; town property on, sold, 300 ; Pound in, 300. Park Street Church, 182, 234 ; spire of, 300 ; history of, 301 ; architect of, 301 ; capitals cut by Willard, 311. Park Theatre (New York), opening of, 417. Parker, Bishop, anecdote of, 414. Parker Block site of, 248. Parker, Chief Justice, 100. Parker House, 57, 65. Parker, Isaac, 82. Parker, John. 196 ; residence of, 291. Parker, Captain John, his musket, 347. Parker, Rev. Samuel, 387. Parker, Rev. Theodore, bequeaths rel- ics to the State, 346, 379, 394. Parkman, Dr. George, 165 ; residence, 338, 371 ; scene of murder, 377. Parkman, Samuel, 141, 196 ; residence, 371. Parris, Alexander, architect of Samt Paul's, 310. Parsons, Eben, 196. Parsons, Theopliilus, residence of, 277 ; anecdote of, 277 ; J. Q. Adams a stu- dent with, 319, 403. Parsons, Thoophilns, Jr., 277. Patten, William, malt-house of, 416. Patterson, Miss, 384. Paving of streets, 21. INDEX. 471 Pavilion, 56. Paxton, Charles, residence of, 273 ; mobbed, 273, 277. Payne, John Howiu-d, 253 ; at Boston Theatre, 259 ; residence and sketch of, 262 ; dies, 262, 313. Payne, Mr., 253. Payson, Joseph, 282. Peabody, Ephraini, 46. Peabody, George, 27. Peale, Charles W,, student of Copley, 353. Peale, Rembrandt, 335. Pearl Street, 37 ; route of Tea Party, 271 ; Admiral Graves's quarters, 272 ; called Hutchinson Street, 273 ; named, 273 ; shoe market, 280. Pearl Street House, 248, 275. Peck, John, purchases Province House, 246. Peck, Samuel, 282 ; shop, 410. Pel by, William, 291 ; opens Warren Theatre, 378. Pelham, Charles, 32. Pelham, Mary, residence, 371 ; adver- tisement, 372. Pelham, Peter, residence, 372 ; an en- graver, 372. Pelican, British brig, 197. Pemberton, Rev. Ebenezer, 104. Pemberton Hill, 6, 8, 10, 34, 47, 52, 365, 389. Pemberton House, 50. Pemberton, James, 47. Pemberton S([uare, 50, 53. Pemberton, Thomas, 134, 154 ; ac- count of commerce of Boston, 179, 180. Penfold, 383. Penn, James, 56. Pennsylvania Academy, 276. Penobscot Expedition, 120. Pepperell, Sir William, sword of, 40, 239 ; forces on the Common, 326. Pepperell, Sir William (Sparhawk), 57 ; estate and sketch of, 384. Pepys, Richard, 4, 5. Percy, Earl of Northumberland, 44 ; quarters, 53, 242, 245, 265 ; marches for Lexington, 304 ; occupies Han- cock House, 340 ; commands on Boston Neck, 426. Perkins, Augustus T., 336. Perkins, James, 37, 196, 280. Perkins, Sergeant, 16. Perkins, Thomas, residence of, 291. Perkins, Thomas H., 38, 196 ; resi- dence, 277, 278 ; commands Cadets, 294. Perkins Street named, 280. Perley, Rev. Mr., 277. Perodi, Mr., suicide of, 363. Perry, Commodore 0. H., at Exchange Cotfee House, 100. Pest-House Point, 369. Peters, Edward D., residence and re- mains of fortifications, 426. Peterson hanged, 426. Pettick's Island, 116. Pfaffs Hotel, 322. Philadelphia Coffee House, 171. See North End Coffee House. Philadelphia, frigate, 186. Phillips, Adelaide, 40. Phillips, Edward B., 38. Phillips Church, 416. Phillips, Deacon John, 154. Phillips, General William, 231, 383. Phillips, Gillam, 332. Phillips, Governor William, 53 ; resi- dence, 54, 55, 56, 100, 196, 337, 362. Phillips, Henry, 96, 332, 393. Phillips, John, first mayor, 14 ; resi- dence, 337. • Phillips, R., 258. Phillips, Wendell, residence of, 337, 379. Phillips, William, Sr., 302. Phillips's Pasture, 409. Pliips, Mary, anecdote of, 210. Phips Place, 209. Phips, Spencer, residence of, 211. See David Bennet. Phips, Sir William, 200 ; residence, 209 ; arrival in Boston, 210, 211. Phoebe, frigate, 171. Pickering, John, 39. Pickering, Timothy, 100. Pierce's Alley (Change Avenue), 105. . 472 INDEX. Pierce, William, shop of, 145, 283. Pierpont, Rev. John, sketch of, 415. Pierpont (and Storey), set in pillory, 93. Pillmore, Rev. Joseph, 172. Pillory, incidents of, 92, 93, 313. Piuckney Street, 334. Pine Street Church, 220. Pitcairn, Major John, quarters of, 158, 159 ; death and burial, 217. Pitt, William, 141. Pitts, Hon. James, residence of, 369. Pitts, Lendall, one of Tea Party lead- ers, 282, 283. Pitts Street, Mexican Volimteers in, 379. Pitts Wharf, 127. Pleasant Street, 64, 305 ; laboratory in, 322 ; British works in, 328. Pleiades or Seven Star Inn, site of, 387. Plymouth Colony, 2 ; relics of, 347. Plymouth, Mass., 2. Plymouth Rock, Choate's mot on, 219. Poinsett, Joel R., 139, 192. Point Alderton, 116, 188. Point Judith, named for, 212. Polk, James K., 385. Pollard, Aime, her landing and deposi- tion, 5. Pollard, Colonel Benjamin, 115. Pomeroy, Colonel (British), 285. Pomeroy, General Seth, 208. Pomeroy, Zadock, 248. Pond Lane. See Bedford Street. Pond Street. See Bedford. Ponsonby, Lord, 97. Poor debtors, 375. Poore, Benjamin Perley, owner of Franklin's press, 80 ; relics of Prov- ince House, 247. Pope, Alexander, 38. Pope Day, 107 ; description of, 149, 150,' 167 ; anniversary celebrated, 399. Poplar Street, 370. Population of Boston, 20, 21. Pormont, Philemon, 56. Porter, David, Sr., residence of, 171. Porter, Commodore David, 111 ; res- idence of, 171, 186. Porter, Admiral David D., 171. Porter, Thomas, 282. Portland Street, 126, 145. Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 45 ; first stage-coach to, 26. Portsmouth, flying stage-coach, 26. Post-Office in Old State House, 89 ; on site Brazier's Building, 92 ; in Mer- chants' Exchange, 269 ; history and locations of, 104 ; corner Congress and Water Streets, 104 ; New, 141, 254 ; in Summer Street, 385. Post-routes, first established, 104 ; post-rider to Hartford, 253. Poimd, site of, 300. Powder, scarcity of, in American camp, 430, 431. Powder-house on the Common, 329 ; at West Boston, 329 ; duel near, 332 ; on the Copley tract, 334 ; desci'ip- tion of, 334. Powder-mill, first in New England, 118. Powell, Charles S., first manager of Federal Street Theatre, 256, 257 ; fits up a theatre in Hawley Street, 261 ; opens Haymarket, 318. Powell, Jeremiah, 346. Powers, Hiram, 38, 345. Powers, Michael, hanged, 424. Pownall, Governor Tliomas, 40, 236, 240 ; anecdote of, 241, 348. Pratt, Benjamin, oifice and description of, 402. Preble, Ebenezer, residence of, 382. Preble, Edward E., 195. Preble, Commodore Edward, 111, 186, 187, 211. Preble, Captain George H., 179, 184. Prentis's, Captain Henry, residence of, 148, 282. Prescott, Colonel William, sword of, 40, 208. Prescott, Judge William, 277 ; resi- dence of, 390. Prescott, W. H., 38 ; residence of, 333 ; blindness, and literary work, 334. President's Roads, 187. Preston, Captain Tliomas, 71, 85 ; de- fence, 126, 166, 266 ; trial, 402. Price, Roger, 386. INDEX. 473 Price, William, 32. Prince, John, residence of, 275, 283. Prince Library, 234. Prince of Orange, 401. Prince Street, 151, 153, 162, 202 : named, 219 ; description, 219 ; British barracks in, 219. See Black Horse Lane. Prince, Thomas, 52 ; library burned, 231. Prince's Pasture, 376. Princess Louise, 272. Prison Lane, 229. Proctor, Edward, 282. Proctor's Lane, 219. See Richmond Street. Proctor's School-house, 223. Prospect Hill, 203. Protector, frigate, 211. Protector, ship, 186. Province Hospital, location of, 369. Province House, 64, 65, 225, 232 ; his- tory and description of, 235 to 248 ; location, 235 ; first gubernatorial oc- cupant, 236 ; successive inhabitants, 236 to 245 ; robbery in, 242 ; Lex- ington expedition planned in, 242 ; divulged by a groom, 243 ; Church's treason discovered in, 243 ; built, 246 ; purchased by the colony, 246 ; occupied by State officers, 246 ; stvled Government House, 246 ; sold, 246 ; relics of, 247, 293, 431. Province Pest-House. See Hospital. Province Snow, 48. Province Street, 64. Provincial Congress, 159. Public Garden occupied by ropewalks, 324 ; a marsh, 325 ; secured to the city, 325 ; Ticknor's bequest, 352. Public Library, 313 ; relic in, 323. Pudding Lane, 98. Pulaski, Count, 264, 310. Purcliase Street, 87 ; named, 273 ; rope-field in, 273 ; birthplace of Samuel Adams, 281 ; description of, 309. Purkett, Henry, anecdote of, 264, 282, 410. Putnam, Colonel, 364, Putnam, General Israel, 69, 129 ; at Bunker Hill, 207, 208, 220 ; to as- sault Boston, 359 ; commands in Boston, 382, 432. Q. Quakers, 15 ; persecution of, 268 ; build first brick meeting - house, 268. Quaker Burying-Ground, site and his- tory of, 267, 268 ; remains exhumed, 268. Quaker Lane, 101. See Congress Street. Quaker Meeting-house, 101 ; site and history of, 267, 268 ; burnt, 267 ; in Milton Place, 268. Queen's Ball last held in Boston, 246. Queen's Chappell, 33. Queen Street, 65 ; changed to Court, 77 ; Franklin's printing-office, SO. Queen's Light Dragoons, 231. Quincy Block, 279. Quincy, Dorothy. See Hancock and Scott. Quincy, Edmund (son of Josiah), 212. Quincy, E. S., 54, 188. Quincy, Josiah, 14, 23, 82 ; improves Town Dock, 128, 129, 130, 139, 196 ; birthplace, 248 ; establishes House of Industry and Keiormation, 249 ; President of Harvard, 249 ; anecdotes of, 250, 279, 354 ; reception of La- fayette, 356 ; Neck paved by, 421. Quincy, Josiah, Jr. (Mayor), 23 ; res- idence, 357. Quincy, Josiah, Jr. (patriot), resi- dence, 248 ; dies, 249 ; sketch of, 249 ; Mrs. Sigourney's lines on, 249. Quincy, Judith, 212. Quincy, Mass., President Monroe at, 100. Quincy Market, 127 ; description, 128, 129. Quincy Place, 275, 280 ; trees in, 409. Quincy, town of, 14, 26. 474 INDEX. R. Railways, experiment, 26, 278 ; Low- ell, 26, 151, 350 ; Worcester, 26 ; Providence, 26 ; Maine, 26, 151 ; Eastern, 26, 151, 350 ; Old Colony, 27 ; Fitchburg, 27, 151 ; Hartford and Erie (Norfolk County), 27. Rainbow, British ship, 220. Rainsford, Edward, 404. Rainsford's Island, 188. Rainsford's Lane, See Harrison Ave- nue. Rand, Isaac, 363. Randolph, Edward, first Collector, 34, 156, 157, 200 ; imprisoned, 285. Randolph, town of, 14. Rantoul, Robert, portrait of, 346. Ratcliff, Rev. Robert, 34. Rawdon, Francis, 203. Rawson, Edward, 222. Rawson, Grindal, 3. Rawson's Lane. See Bromfield Street. Raymond, James, 394. Read, John, residence of, 402. Red Lvon Inn, site of, 156 ; fire of 1676', 169. Red Lyon Wharf, 157. Reed, Commodore George W., 189. Reed, Joshua, 429. Reed, William, store attacked, 224. Rehoboth, 5. Repertory, The (newspaper), 91. Reservoir grounds, 338, 350, 352. Revenge Cliurch. See Second Church. Revere, Paul, 32, 61 ; celebrated ride, 69 ; shop, 118 ; foundry, 120, 148, 149 ; residence of, 159, 211 ; en- graves and jjrints money for Pro- vincial Congress, 159, 173, 182 ; narrative of ride to Lexington, 214, 243, 282; shop, 338; illustrates Stamp Act repeal, 359, 371. Revere House, site of, 371 ; named, 371 ; distinguished guests, 371. Revere Place, 211. Revere's cannon and bell foundry, 200. Rice, Benjamin, 282. Richards, John, shipyard of, 178. Richmond Street, 19, 155, 156, 157,198. Riedesel, General Baron, 231, 324. Rimmer, Dr., 344. Riot of 1863, 142. Ripley, Henry J., residence of, 222. Robertson, Alexander, 313. Robin, L'Abbe, his description of Bos- ton, 18, 19, 114. Robinson, John, assaults James Otis, 108, 253. Robinson, William, executed, 330. Rochambeau, Jean Baptiste, Count de, 18, 61 ; army of, 113, 429. Rochefoucauld, Liancourt, Duke de, 141. Rochester, Earl of, 34. Rodgers, Commodore John, 186, 188. Roebuck Passage, 131. See Merchant's Row. Roebuck Tavern, 131. Rog, John P., hanged, 424. Rogei's, Daniel D., residence of, 358. Rogers, Isaiah, architect of Tremont House, 290; of Tremont Theatre, 293 ; of Howard Athenaeum, 368. Rogers, Simon, innkeeper, 428. Rogers, Rev. William M., 259. Roman Catholic Church, mass first celebrated in, 64. Romney, frigate, 170. Romney, Lord, 78. Ropes, William, residence of, 366. Ropewalks, first, 273 ; in Pearl Street, 273 ; at Barton's Point, 273 ; riot at, in Pearl Street, 274 ; at the 'foot of Common, 324- burnt, 325 ; title of proprietors purchased, 325 ; on Bea- con Hill, 329, 352. Rose, frigate, 34. Ross, General, burns Washington, 369. Rostopchin, Governor, burning of Mos- cow, 320. Rouillard, innkeeper, 254. Round Marsh, The, 305. Rowe, John, suggests throwing the tea overboard, 230 ; residence of, 390. Rowe Street nameil, 230, 390. Rowe's Wharf, 109, 284. Rowse, Samuel, 40. Rowson, Mrs, Susanna, at Federal INDEX. 475 street Theatre, 258 ; establishes school for young ladies, 259 ; school, 429. Roxbury, 17 ; annexed, 23. Royal Custom House, site in 1770, 97, 98. Royal Deux Fonts regiment, 434 ; uni- form, 435. Royal Exchange Lane, 96. Royal Excliange, London, 136. Royal Excliange Tavern, location of, 9*6, 97, 98. Royal Marines, part of, in Lexington expedition, 304. Ruby, Ann, 206. Riidhall, Abel, 214, 215. Ruggles, Samuel, builds Faneuil Hall, 135. Rumford, Count (Benjamin Thomp- son), 39 ; apprentice in Cornhill, 86, 87, 154. Russell, Benjamin, 100, 207 ; anecdote of, 266 ; anecdote and residence of, 388. Russell, John, 282. Russell, Joseph, 76. See Green. Russell, Joseph, Jr., 389. Russell, Thomas, 96, 180, 184, 253, 383. Russell, Hon. Thomas, Collector of Boston, 169. Russell, William, 283. S. to Sabin, Thomas, puts on first Providence, 392. Sabiue, Lorenzo, 97, 410. Sailor's Home, 87. Saint Andrew's Lodge, 150. Saint Helena, 139. Saint James Hotel, 96. Saint Maime, Count de, 435. Saint-Onge (regiment), 435. Salem, 25, 27, 35. Salem Church, 210, 220. Salem Street, 7 ; widened, 145 ; called Back Street, 153 ; description of, 213, 219 ; origin, 219 ; Massachu- setts Spy printed in, 223. Saltonstall, Colonel Richard, 33. Salutation Street (Alley), 175. Salutation Tavern, site of, 175 ; ren- dezvous of the Boston Caucus, 176. Sandeman, Robert, 107, 212. See Mein. Sandemanians, first meetings of, 150 ; Chapel, 172. Saratoga, battle of, 87, 103. Sargent, Henry, 104, 141. Sargent, Lucius M. (Sigma), 114, 332, 353, 384. Savage, Arthur, 217, 218. Savage, James, 227. Savannah, Ga., 103. Savings Bank (Tremont Street), 37. Savings Bank founded by, 417. Scarlet, Elizal)eth, 206. Scarlet Letter, 92 ; description of, 93. Scarlett's Wharf, 114 ; description of, 168. Scarlett's Wharf Lane, 168. See Fleet Street. School Street, 28, 32, 56, 57, 63, 67. Schwartzenburg, Prince, 321. Scollay's Buildings, 37 ; description of, 74 ; history of, 75, 76 ; spinning school on site of, 302, 388. Scollay, John, 74. Scollay, William, 39, 74 ; residence of, 75 ; improvement of Franklin Street, 254. Scollay Square, 74, 97. Sconce. See South Battery. Sconce Lane. See Hamilton Street. Scoot, Thomas, 206. Scott, Madam Dorothy, 124 ; residence of, 264 ; dies, 265 ; witnesses battle of Lexington, 265 ; anecdotes of, 265. Scott, Captain James, 264. Scott, General Winfield, presents flag to Mexican Volunteers, 379. Scotto, Thomas, 58. Seafort, sliip, 178. Seamen's Bethel founded, 373. Sears's Building, 82, 83. Post-Office on site of, 104. Sears, David, 196 ; residence, 334 ; commands Cadets, 337 ; mansion, 337, 389, 396. 476 INDEX. Second Baptist Church, location and sketch of, 222, 223. Second Church (New Brick), 84 ; history and location of, 155, 156, 158, 161. Seekonk Branch Railroad Company located on South Cove, 411, Segur, Louis Philippe, Count de, 19 ; account of Boston Society in 1782, 362, 435. Selfridge, Thomas 0., kills Austin, 114. Serapis, frigate, 180. Sergeant, Peter, builds Province House, 236, 246. Seven Dials, 153. Seven Star Inn, See Pleiades. Seven Star Lane, Summer Street so- called, 387. Sever, James, 184. Sewall's Elm Pasture, 52. Sewall, Jonathan, 273, 364. Sewall, Rev. Joseph, 138, 232. Sewall, Samuel, 13, 35 ; residence of, 51 ; marriage, 52 ; presides at witch- craft trials, 52, 204, 211, 228, 271 ; buried, 296, 362 ; plants trees, 409, Sewall Street, 52. Seward, Major, 206. Shattuck, Lemuel, 365. Shaw, Charles, 6, 8, 37, 102, 109. Shaw, Chief Justice, 83. Shaw, Francis, residence of, 158. Shaw, Lemuel, Chief Justice, 283 ; usher of Franklin School, 417. Shaw, Robert G., residence of, 158. Shaw, Major Samuel, residence of, 158 ; challenges Lieutenant Wragg, 159, Shaw, Williams., 38. Shawmut, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10. Shays, Daniel, 103. Sliays's Rebellion, 361. Shea, Lieutenant, anecdote of, 217. Sheaffe, Helen, 65. Sheaffe, Mrs., 53 ; residence of, 74, 410. Sheaffe, Sir Roger Hale, 97, 154 ; resi- dence and sketch of, 410, 411. Sheaffe Street supposed residence of John Hull, 212. Sheaffe, William, 65 ; Deputy Collec- toj' in 1770, 97. Sheaffe, Margaret, 97. Sheaffe, Susanna, 97, Shed, Joseph, 282. Sheehan's Pond, 329, Sheerness, British man-of-war, 332. Slielburne, Lord, 398. Shelcock, Richard, innkeeper, 112, Shepard, Colonel, 275. Shepard, Preston, innkeeper, 248. Sheppard, John H., 221. Sheriff, Captain, 137. Shirley, Frances, 32. Shirley, Governor William, 28, 29, 30. 31, 32, 35, 42, 62 ; supersedes Belcher 102 ; returns from Louisburg, 115 140, 162, 179, 211, 215, 236 ; resi' dence of, 239 ; colonial stamp tax 239, 240 ; events of his administra tion, 240 ; funeral of, 267 ; troops for Louisburg, 326 ; gifts to Trinity Church, 387. Shirley, William, Jr., killed, 240. Ship Street (North), 153 ; description of, 168. Ship Tavern, site and history of, 174, 175, 178. Short, Captain Richard, 210. Short Street (Kingston), 45. Shubrick, Commodore William B., 186. Shurtleff, Nathaniel B., 8, 62. Shute, Samuel, 31, 49, 102, 236, 247. Shreve, Crump, and Low, 390. Shrimpton's Lane, 56, 96. Shrimpton, Colonel Samuel, 56. Sidewalks in Boston, 22. Siege of Boston, 86. Sigourney, Lieutenant James, 221. Sigourney, Lydia H., 35. Simons, Henry, 151, Simpson, Daniel, 150, Simpson, Isaac, 282. Sister Street, 262 ; name changed, 280. See Leather Street. Sixty-fiftli British Regiment, 32. Sixty-fourth British Regiment, 285. Skillin, Simeon, 92. Slater, Peter, 282. Slavery, negro, 13 ; white, 13, 14, 183 Sloper, Samuel, 282. SnelUng, Colonel Josiah, 221. INDEX. 477 Snow, Caleb H., 133 ; residence of. 158. Snow Hill. See Copp's Hill. Snow-Hill Street, 195, 204. Snow, Rev. \V. T., 67. Small, General John, 69, 125, Small-pox parties, 389. Smibert, John, residence of, 72 ; studio, 73 ; architect of Faneuil Hall, 135, 165, 334. Smibert, Mary (Williams), 72, 276 ; Governor Oliver a patron. 279. Smibert, Nathaniel, 72. Smith, Abiel, 196. Smith, Barney, 230. Smith, Captain, 357. Smith, Lieutenant-Colonel Francis, commands Lexington expedition, 242, 304. Smith, J. V. C, 331. Smith, Dr. Oliver, 306. Smith, Richard, innkeeper, 112 ; keeps Crown Coffee House, 112. Smith, Svdney, 129. Smith, W. H., 40, 378. Society of the Cincinnati, 71 ; met at Bunch of Grapes, 105 ; anecdote of, 367. Soissonnais (regiment), 435. Somers, Lord, 78. Somerset, British frigate, 203, 214, 217. Somerset Club House, 363. Somerset Court. See Ashburton Place. Somerset, Mass. , 52. Somerset Place (Allston Street), 363. Somerset Street, Webster's house in, 46 ; named for, 52 ; conveyed to town, 52, 363. See Valley Acre. Somerset, The, 363 ; house built, 363 ; Lafayette lodges in, 363. Sons of Liberty, 331 ; Stamp Act re- peal, 359, 396, 397, 398. Sontag, Madame, 394. Southack's Court, 48. Southack Street, 370. Southack, Cyprian, 48, 49, 302. South Allen Street, called Fayette Street, 316. See McLean Street. South Battery (Rowe's Wharf), 109, 115, 158, 251 ; blo^vn up, 272 ; de- scription of, 284, 327. See Sconce. Soutii Berwick, Me., 26. South Boston, 23, 25 ; City institu- tions, 376. South Boston Bridge, 7. South Boston Point, 338. South Burying-Ground (Washington Street), gates of, 96 ; Granary so called, 296. South Cove, 7, 8 ; improvement, 411. South End, 10. South Margin Street, 150. South Market Street, built, 129, 130. South Meeting-house. See Old South, 228, 229. South Mills, 151. South Street, 7. Souverain, French ship, 437. South Writing-School, location and in- cident of, 314 ; concealment of can- non in, 314. Sparhawk, Nathaniel, 384. Sparks, Jared, 233. Spear, Nathan, 129. Spear, Samuel, 349. Spear, Thomas, 283. Spear's Wharf, 129. Spinning-schools, establishment of,302. Sprague, Charles, 364 ; impromptu on Lafayette's reception, 354 ; home, 416 ; anecdote of, 417. Sprague, Samuel, 283. Spring Gate, 234. Spring Lane, 10, 39, 109, 234. Springs of water, 10, 22. Spurr, John, 282. Spurzheim, John Gaspard, residence of, 275. Stackpole House, 254. Stackpole, William, 254. Stamps of Colonial Stamp Act, 239, 240. Stamp Act, celebration of repeal, 358, 359. Staniford Street, 370. Stanley, Lord, 204 ; visits Boston, 341, 367. Stark, General John, relics of Ben- nington, 346. Starr, James, 282. 478 INDEX. State Bank, 95, 104, 201. State House (new), 336, 339 ; built on Hancock's Pasture, 339 ; architect of, 343 ; styled the " Hub," 344 ; history of, 344 ; statue of Webster, 344 ; of Horace Mann, 345 ; of Gov- ernor Andrew, and General Wash- ington, 345 ; tablets in, 345 ; Lafay- ette's reception in, 345, 346 ; Senate Chamber, portraits and revolution- ary relics in, 346 ; ancient codfish in Representatives' Chamber, 348, 355 ; faulty proportions of, 370. State Street, 26, 41 ; Governor Lever- ett's house, 83 ; early settlers in, 88 ; celebration of Declaration of Inde- pendence, 91 ; Avidened, 101 ; called the Broad Street, 101 ; Jeremiah Dummer born in, 103 ; retrospective view of, 113 ; military displays in, 113 ; fire of 1711, 113 ; affray in, 114 ; signs in, 146. Statues, public, 344, 345. Stavers, Bartholomew, 26. Stebbins, Mrs., 407. Stebbins, Miss, 345. Steele, John, commands North Bat- tery, 177 ; ropewalk, 370. Stevens, El)enezer, 282, 295. Stevenson, Marmaduke, hung, 330. Stevenson, Mary, 5. Stewart, Cliarles, 186 ; commands Con- stitution, 191, 194. Stewart, Captain, 62. Stewart, T. L., 378. Stewart, W., 378. Stillman, Rev. Samuel, residence of, 222 ; buried, 296. Stillman Street, named, 222. St. Andrew, Holborn, 67. St. Andrew's Lodge, 196. St. Botolph's Church, Boston, Eng- land, 6, 7, 50. St. Clair, General Arthur, 221. St. Mary Woolnoth, church of, 210. St. Paul's, Warren's remains entombed in, 69 ; architect of, 310 ; descrip- tion of, 311 ; a new era of church architecture, 311 ; fourth Episcopal church, 311. I St. Paul's, London, England, 32. St. Vincent, Lord, 407. Stocks, location of, 92. Stoddard, Mr., 217. Stoddard, Mrs., 21. Stone, Captain, 15. Stone Chapel, 33. See King's Chapel. Stone, General Ebenezer W., 147. Stone, Emily, 206. Stone, innkeeper, 96. Storer, Mr., 389. Storey. See Pierpont. Storrs, Rev. Richard S., 415. Story, Joseph, 44, 100 ; anecdote of, 249 ; opinion of Dexter, 353, Stoughton, Governor William, 148. Strafford, Earl of, 51. Strong, Governor Caleb, sword of, 40 ; resides in Province House, 246 ; sketch of, 246, 247 ; builds works on Noddle's Island, 247 ; personal appearance, 247 ; town residence of, 307, 364. Stuart, Gilbert, 38 ; portrait of Knox, 86 ; of Washington, 141 ; anecdote of Talleyrand, 142, 276 ; residence of, 407 ; sketch and anecdotes of, 407, 408. Stuart, Jane, 407. Sub-Treasury (Exchange), 103. Sudbury Lane, 47. ^e Sudbury Street. Sudbury Street, 41 ; Governor Eustis lives in, 367, 369 ; trees in, 409. Sudbury River, 23. Sullivan, James, 39, 114, 201 ; tomb of, 296 ; residence of, 371 ; sketch of, 388, 433. Sullivan, General John, 359, 381. Sullivan, Richard, anecdote of, 388. Sullivan, William, 32, 190, 280, 388. Sully, Thomas, 276, 336. Summer Street, 46, 201, 227 ; descrip- tion and residents of, 381 ; called Mylne Street, 381. Sumner, Governor Increase, 344 ; por- trait of, 346. Sumner, General W. H., 243, 346, 348, 367. Sumner Street. See Mount Vernon. Sun Court Street, 159, 161, 287. INDEX. 479 Sun Fire Office in Boston, 107. Sun Tavern, General Dearborn's res- idence, 106, 2{Sb ; other taverns of same name, 2S6. Surriage, Agnes (Lady Frankland), l&>, lt)3. Swan, James, residence of, 283, 313. Swast'V, Major, 383. Swetlenborg, Baron, 280. Swift, General Joseph G., 100. Swing Bridge, 127. Symnies, Andrew, Jr., 66. T. T Wharf, 114, 115. Tabernacle, Millerite, location, 367 ; incidents of, 367, 368 ; changed into a theatre and destroyed, 368. Talbot, Commodore Isaac, 187, 196. Talleyrand, Prince, in Boston, 141 ; amour of, 142. Talleyrand, Perigord, anecdote of, 435. Tarleton, Colonel, 436. Taylor, Rev. E. T. (Father), residence of, 169. Taylor's Insurance Office, 196. Tea Party, 72, 115, 120, 148, 149 ; meeting, 229, 230, 231, 264 ; route of, 271 ; arrival at Gfiffin's Wharf, 281 ; names of, 282 ; anecdotes of, 282, 283, 284. Tedesco, Fortunata, 368. Temple, Sir John, 337, 349. Temple, Robert, 215. Tenii)le Street, named, 350. Territory included in Boston, 14 ; en- largement of, 23. Thacher, James, 430. Thacher, Peter, 39, 123, 155 ; installa- tion, 173. Thacher, Peter 0., 38 ; office, 402. Thaclier, Samuel C, 38. Thatcher, Mary, 204. Thacher, Rev. Thomas, 227. Tha.xter, Adam W., 141. Thayer, P^phraim, 182. Theatre Alley, 254. See Devonshire Street. The Great Artillery, See Ancient and Honorable Artillery, 137. Thirty-eighth British Regiment, 113, 116 ; arrival of, 170. Thomas and Andrews, bookstore of, .391. Thomas, Isaiah, 79, 80, 98, 100, 107 ; prints Massachusetts Spy, 223 ; bookstore, 223, 252 ; anecdote of, 413, 433. Thomas, Mr., body of, exhumed, 216. Thompson's Island, incident of pur- chase, 431. Thorndike's Building, 287. Thorndike, Israel, 3b9. Thome, Charles R., 259. Thornton, J. Wingate, 365. Thornton's Shipyard, 181. Thorwaldsen, 344. Three Doves, 146, 147. Three Nuns and a Comb, 146. Three Sugar Loaves and Canister, 146. Ticknor, George, residence of, 353. Ticknor, Mrs., 364. Ticonderoga, removal of cannon from, 86, 87. Tileston, John, residence of, 218. Tileston Street, 174, 213 ; named, 218. Tileston, Thomas, 66. Tilley's Wharf, 180. Tingey, Conmiodore, 382. Tinville, Foufjuier, 436. Tippecanoe, battle of, 168. Tontine Crescent, 39 ; built, 254 ; de- scription of, 255. Toplitfs Reading Room, 269. Topography of Boston, 7. Tout, Elizabeth, 206. Tower, Abraham, 222. Town Bull, 129. ToA\ni Cove, 7, 8, 115, 177. Town Dock, 7, 8, 19, 102, 108; de- scription of, 126, 127 ; corn market at, 141, 152, 389. TowTi House, 34 ; (Old State House), 58, 89 ; Pillory and Stocks in front of, 92 ; Post-Office in, 104 ; burnt, 113 ; massacre, 126, 285, 399, 400. Town Pump, location of, 84, 118 ; an other in Nortli Stjuare, 159. Town Records, 19. 480 INDEX. Town Watering-Place, 381. Townsend, Colonel Penn, 289. Transcript, Boston, 267. Trask, Isaac, innkeeper, 248. Trask, Nabby, 248. Traveller Building. See Columbian Centinel. Traverse Street, "Warren and Eagle Theatres in, 378. Trefry, Widow, 26. Trees, disappearance of, 409 ; planting of, by early settlers, 409, 410. Tremont House, 289 ; built, and anec- dotes of, 290, 291 ; Common extends to, 296, 353. Tremont Row, 47, 56 ; Choate's office in, 82 ; Dr. Lloyd's in, 363. Tremont Street, 9, 10, 35, 37, 38, 39, 41, 47, 48, 49, 63, 65, 68, 70, 72, 75 ; Faneuil's house in, 135 ; description of, 289 ; Long Acre, 289 ; muster of Earl Percy's brigade, 304 ; Mather Byles a resident of, 412 ; a part called Nassau and Holyoke Street, 412 ; opened to Roxbury, 412. Tremont Temple burnt, 292. Tremont Theatre, history of, 291 ; cast at opening, 292 ; managers, 292 ; description of, 293, 378. Triangular Warehouse, 130, 131. Trimountain, 6, 17. Trinity Church, 30 ; description and history of, 386, 387 ; General Wash- ington attends, 387, 416. Trinity Church, New York, 227. Triomphant, French ship, 437. Tripoli, 171. Trucks, long, 177. Truckmen, 177. Truman, John, 283. Trumbull Gallery (Yale), 73. Trumbull, Jonathan, 414. Trumbull, Colonel John, 69 ; studio in Boston, 73 ; paintings 74, 269, 336 ; exploit of, 426. Truxton, Commodore Thomas, 182. Tucker, Joseph, rebuilds Christ Church steeple, 214. Tucker, Commodore Samuel, residence of, 220 ; exploits, 221. Tuckerman, H. T.,home of, 421. Tuckerman, Joseph, 38. Tudor, Frederick, founds the ice trade, 304. Tudor, Deacon John, 175. Tudor, William (Judge), 82, 304. Tudor, Madam, 175. Tudor, William, Jr., 38 ; originates North American Review, 304 ; pro- poses a monument on Bunker Hill, 304. Tudor's Buildings, 82. Tun and Bacchus, 146. Tupper, General Benjamin, exploit on Boston Neck, 427. Turell, Mr., 123 ; Captain, 161. Turner, Robert, innkeeper, 122. Tuttle, Charles W., 272. Twelfth Congregational Church, 64. Twenty-third British Regiment, part of, in Lexington expedition, 304. Twenty-ninth British Regiment, 89 ; quarters, 121, 123 ; at the Massacre, 126 ; on the Common, 326. Twickenham, 145. Two Palaverers. See Salutation Tav- ern, 176. Tyler, Royal, 269. Tyler, sculptor of London, England, 32. Tjmg, Captain Edward, 179. u. Uhlans, 436. Umbrellas first used in Boston, 116. Union Bank, 113. Union Church, 148. Union College, 262. Union Hill, 203. Union Street, 10, 126, 130 ; named, 145 ; widened, 147. United States Bank, first location, 92 ; directors of, 389 ; in 1824, 94 ; sketch of, 95 ; second location, 95 ; Eagle from old Bank, 95 ; iron gates of, 96 ; tliird location, 96, 104, 295. United States frigate, 1 81 ; accident to, 183. United States Hotel, located on South Cove, 411. INDEX. 481 Universalist Clim-ch, Scliool Street, 63, 64. University Hall (Cambridge), 370. University of Utrecht, 103. Upsliall, Nicholas, residence of, 157. Urann, Thomas, 282. Uring, Captain Nathaniel, account of the Neck, 419. Urqhart, James, 383. Ursidine Convent in Boston, 256. Usher, Mr., Andros coniined in house of, 285. V. Valley Acre, situation of, 365, 369, Valj)araiso, Essex blockaded in, 171. Van Buren, Martin, visits Boston, 139, 185, 192. Vane, Sir Henry, 50 ; executed, 51, 108, 109, 226. Vardy, Luke, keeps Royal Exchange Tavern, 96. Vassall, Florentine, 31, 32. Vassall, John, 55. Vassall, Leonard, residence of, 389. Vassall, William, 31, 76 ; residence of, 389. Vaudreuil, M. de, 61 ; fleet of, in Bos- ton, 437. Vaughan, Charles, 39; improves Frank lin Streetj 254. Vergennes, Count de, 58. Vermont, ship-of-the-line, 185. Vernon, Admiral Edward (Old Grog), 110. Vernon Street, 375. Vidal, Captain, 142. Vila, James, innkeeper, 105. Vine Street, Iniilt, 376. Viomenil, General, 356 ; entry into Boston in 1782, 433, 434. Virginia, ship-of-tlie-line, 185. Vyal, John, innkeeper, 174. W. Wade, Edward, 26, Wadsworth, James, bounty for rats, 395. 21 Wadsworth, Recompense, first master of Nortli Latin School, 218. Wakefield, Cynis, 124. Wales, Prince of, in Boston, 371. Walker, Admiral Sir H., 48. Walker, Robert, 305. Wallach, Mr., 262. Wallcut, Mr., 39. Waller, Ednumd, 181. Walley, Thomas, 196. Walnut Street, 334 ; residents of, 337, 338. Waltham Street, sea waU built to, 420. Walter, Arthur M., 38. Ward, General Artemas, 69 ; com- mands in Boston, 382 ; relieved, 383, 432. Wardell, Jonathan, 25, 70. Wards, division into, civil and military, 21. Warren, John C, 38, 61, 247; resi- dence of, 297, 311, 376. Warren, Dr. John, house, 60. Warren, Joseph, birthplace of, 60 ; residence of, 68 ; manner of his death, 69, 70, 124; portrait, 140, 148, 149, 176, 203, 211, 214 ; bullet Avhich killed him, 218 ; address in Old South, 228, 248, 269 ; chaise of, 274, 283 ; remains placed in Granary Ground, 297, 308, 311 ; a student of medicine, 363 ; Governor Eustis stud- ies with, 366 ; anecdote of, 423. Warren Street, Roxbury, 61. Warren Theatre, 378. Warren, William, 40 ; debut in Boston, 368. Washington Artillery, 288, Washington Bank, site of, 404. Washington Gardens, old Masonic Ten)ple built on site of, 312 ; loca- tion of, 312 ; history of, 313. Wasliington, George, 31, 38 ; visit of, to Boston, 42, 43, 44, 58 ; visits Boston, 1756, 62, m, 73 ; third visit, 91,124; portrait by Stuart, 141, 158; ap- proves building six frigates, 181 ; first monument to, 216, 220 ; de- feated, 244, 266, 279, 285, 310 ; stat- EE 482 INDEX. ues of, 344, 345 ; orders Boston at- tacked, 359, 373 ; attends Brattle Street and Trinity in 1789, 387 ; Stuart's portrait of, 408 ; orders levelling of works on Neck, 426 ; uniform of, 429 ; arms of, 431 ; en- try ii\to Boston, 1776, 432. Washington Hall, site of, 430. Washington House, site of, 429. Washington Hotel. See Hall. Washington Market, 426 ; site of, 429. Washington, Martha, 38. Washington Monument, 278. Washington Place, 288 ; Gilbert Stu- art's residence in, 407. Washington Street, 20, 22, 35 ; (Corn- hill, Marlborough, Newbury, Or- ange), 102 ; great fire of 1787, 416 ; narrowness of, 419 ; named, 420 ; extent of, 420. Washington Theatre. See Garden, 313. Washington Village, 23. Wasp, American ship, 280. Watch-house on Beacon Hill, 334. Water, supply of, 22, 23. Water Street, 37 ; bridge at foot of, 109, 141 ; description of, 234 ; Brit- ish barrack in, 234 ; trees in, 409. Watertown, 159. Webb, John, 173, 174. Webb, Mr., leaves legacy for Alms- house, 300. Webster Buildings, 46. Webster, Daniel, 44 ; law office, 44 ; school, 45 ; anecdotes of, 45, 46, 47 ; first office, 79, 82, 124, 140 ; portrait in Faneuil Hall, 140, 150. 279; statue of, 344, 353 ; Lafayette visits, 365 ; anecdotes of, 382 ; receives Lafayette, 382 ; defends Powers, 424. Webster, Edward, died, 46, 379. Webster, Ezekiel, 45. Webster, Fletcher, killed, 46. Webster, John White, residence of, 165 ; execution of, 375, 378. Webster, Bedford, residence of, 165. Weekly Rehearsal, 234. Welsh Fusileers at Bunker Hill; 203, 229, 285. Wells, S. A., 141. Wells, William, 38. Wellfleet, 49. Welsteed, Rev. William, 336. Wendell, Jacob, 42, 65, 115. Wendell, John, 42. Wendell, Oliver, 65, 66 ; residence of, 279. Wentworth, Mrs., 389. Wesley, John, 172. Wesleyan Association Building, site of Indian Qiieen, 248. West, Benjamin, 38, 336 ; Stuart a pupil of, 408. West Church (Lynde Street), 72, 234 ; windmill near, 369 ; history of, 374, 416. West Boston, 10 ; windmill at, 199 ; Powder House at, 329 ; d'efence of, 362 ; description of, 369, 370 ; streets of, 370 ; town institutions at, 374. West Boston Bridge, 369. West End, 10. West Hill, mortar battery on, 325. West Newbury, Franklin's press at, 80. West, Raphael, 408. West Row, location of, 371. West Roxbury, 23. West, Rev. Samuel, 415. West Street, 10, 93 ; limit of, the Mall, 306 ; Haymarket in, 313 ; Whipping- Post and Pillory near, 313. Western Avenue (Mill Dam), 25. Westminster Abbey, 32. Wetherle, Joshua, appointed mint- master, 422. Wetmore, Judge, 403. Wetmore, William, 389. Wlialley, General Edward, 55. Wliarton and Bowes, shop of, 85. Wheatley, John, 233. Wheatley, PhilUs, residence and sketch of, 233. Wheeler, Benjamin, &Q. Wheeler, David, 20. Wheeler, Josiah, 282 ; builds Hollis Street Church, 415. Wheeler, Mr., 322. INDEX. 483 Wlieeler's Point, 25 ; trees planted on, 409. ^\^leel^v^ight's Wliarf, British barracks on, 274, 2S4, 358. Wliidah (ship), 49. Wliig Club, 2(59. Whipping-Post, location of, 92, 313. Whiston,^Mr., 314, 315. AVhite Horse Tavern, site and sketch of, 392, 393. White, Marcy, 206. White Plains, battle of, 87. Whitebread Alley. See Harris Street. Wliitefield, Rev. George, 64, 102 ; preaches on the Common, 358. Whiting, William, 74. \Miitrnan, Zachariah, 416. Wliitmo' '. H., 122. Wliitney, coionel, 287. Whittington, Richard, 131. Whitweil, William, 387. Wilder, Marshall P., 365. Wildes, Ephraim, innkeeper, 154. Wilkes, John, 52, 269, 432. Willard, Solomon, architect of United States Bank, 94, 310 ; sketch of, 311 ; architect of Bunker Hill Monument, 312 ; discovers Bunker Hill Quarrv, 312, 337. William and Mary, 210. William III., charter of, 209, 237. Williams College, 120. Williams Court, 338. Williams John, 170. Williams, John, hanged, 424. Williams, John D., 420. Williams, John Foster, 211 ; died, 211, 264 ; street named for, 280. Williams Market, old fortifications near, 424, 425. Williams, Major, 203. Williams Street named, 280. See Mat- thews Street. Williamsburg, battle of, 168. Willis's Lane. See Winter Street. Wilmington, Mass., 26. Wilson's Lane, 56 ; description of, 101. Wilson, John, 50, 91 ; estate of, 92, 212. Wiltshire Street. See Chambers Street. Windmill, old, 199 ; one at West Bos- ton, 199. See Windmill Point. Windmill Hill. See Copp's Hill. Windmill Point, 7 ; (Wheeler's) 25, 381. Wing's Lane (Elm Street), 102, 126, 145. Winnisimmet, 14, 24 ; ferry, 68. Winslow, Governor Edward, 40 ; his chair, 347. Winslow Blues, 137, 190. Winslow, John, recognizes Warren's body, 69 ; store and residence of, 87. Winter Hill, 203. Winter Place, Samuel Adams's house in, 308. Winter Street, noted residents, 307 ; Mrs. Dexter' s, 307 ; Samuel Adams's, 308 ; called Blott's, Bannister's, and Willis's Lane, 308. Winthrop House, site, 318 ; burnt, 318. Winthrop, John, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11 ; chosen selectman, 14, 19, 25 ; burial- place, 35 ; portrait, 40, 47, 50, 51 ; Anne Hutchinson on trial, 63 ; at- tends First Cliurch, 91 ; invites Lord Ley to his house, 109 ; journal, 130 ; orders ship built at Medford, 178 ; company, 202 ; residence, 225 ; house destroyed by British, 225 ; sketch of, 225 ; death, 225 ; statue of, 226- 234 ; portraits of, 346, 347 Winthrop, Judge, 39. Winthrop's Marsh, 109. Winthrop Place, 364. Winthrop, Robert C, 57 ; birthplace, 254 ; residence of, 337 ; proposes Fi-anklin statue, 337, 352. Winthrop, sloop, 186. Winthrop, Lieutenant-Govenior Thom- as L., 139, 190 ; residence of, 337 ; Lafavette visits, 364 Wirt, William, 82. Woburn, 86. Wood, original gro\\'th of, 10. Wood, William, 6, 16. Woodbridge, Benjamin, 96, 332. Woodbury, Levi,"l39, 185. 484 INDEX. Woodmansie's Wharf, 127. Worcester Spy. See Massachusetts Spy. Wolfe, General, proposed monument to, 241, 244, 326, 327. Workhouse in Park Street, 203, 299, 300 ; occupied by wounded, 300, 359. Wortley, Lord, visits Boston, 341. Wragg, Lieutenant, quarters of, 158. Wren, Sir Christopher, epitaph, 76, 369. Wright, Colonel Isaac Hull, 379. Wyeth, Mr.,2S3. Wyre, Robert, residence of, 171. Yale College, 72. Yale, Governor Elihu, 73 ; epitaph, 73. York (Toronto), Royal Standard cap- tured at, 106. YorktoA\m, Va., 103. Young, A. B.,113. Young, Dr. John, 176, 269. Young, Thomas, 282. THE END, ^1. ^ 928 (i>