* 4 ■ vpz 74 51 H$M LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. (SMITHSONIAN DEPOSIT.) Cftap. F"H Shelf v SIHS3- UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. Price 10 Cts. 3 -TO- — £ Salem, Mass. *H885v*- w H, P, IVE S, "DLD CORNER BDDKSTDRE," ' PUBLISHER, . " The Old Corner Bookstore." ENGLISH, FIIJEJVCII JLJSTD JlMfiRICAN ST A TIONBR IT. Historic Views of Salem. Henry P. Ives, Cor. Essex &o Washing ton Streets . SALEM, MASS. POCKET GUIDE TO SALEM, MASS First Settlement.— Salem was ,-ettled by Roger Conant and com- panions in 1(526. They had previously settled at Cape Ann, but re- moved to Salem, then called Nanmkeag, as a more desirable locality. The original indenture, under the signature of Lord Sheffield, is now in the possession of the Essex Institute. It bears date January 1, 1(523, and was granted by the Council of Plymouth in the county of Devon, England, for settling the northern part of Massachusetts Bay. This charter was superseded by the grant from the Council of Plymouth and the subsequent charter under which Gov. Endicott acted. The company headed by Endicott landed at Salem, Sept. fi. 1(528 (O. S.). The duplicate of this last charter, which was sent over to Endicott in 1629, is in the Salem Athenaeum. The company acting under this charter, with the settlers previously here, founded the oldest town in the colony of Massachusetts Bay. Salem was incor porated June 24, 1G29, and was the capital town of the colony, till the supersedure of Endicott by Gov. Winthrop in 1630. (1) POCKET GUIDE On the 29th of June, 1629, the - Talbot " dropped anchor m the hai • boI „ f «*aimhecKe," among the colonists in her company be.ug B.v. Francis Higginson and Rev. Samnel Shelton. A company of lout 300 arrived at this time; Shelton became " pastor > and H g- £Z " teacher - of the first Protestant church in Amertca, wh.ch was organized in Salem, Ang. 6, 1029. in 1086 the inhabitants of Salem fearing that, hy a possible forfmt „,e of their charter, they might lose their landed possesses, took a Ted from the Indians of the vicinity, of the territory embraced ,n the town limits. This deed was executed on Oct. 11 108 , and original may be seen at the City Hall. The pr.ce paid was £10. Towns Set off from Salem. Wenham was set off and incor po^tlTin 10«; Manchester in 1015; Marbleheadin 1619; Topsfi Id M Beverly in 1608; Banvers (including what is now Teabody) in 1757. T!ia Witchcraft Delusion.-Iu 1092 Salem was the centre of the tenfblelhchcraa delusion which resulted in the execution of mm, n^ers 1 Besides those executed, several hundred were com Id hut were released. The first - examinations •• were held at Chouse" on the site of the present First Church, corner 7Z *Z W ington streets. Bater, the trials were held in the Court House on Town House Bane, now Washington street. Con- KS sessions of the Grand .lurors were held at thehous tf TuLe Corwin which house is still standing at the come of Essex n Nortl streets, and is popularly called the "Old Witch H«.~.» 5 the victims were confined was on Pr.sou lane, now St. St The'death warrant of one of the condemned, BrldgetBish^nmy TO SALEM. 3 be seen at the office of the Clerk of the Courts, in the stone Court House, on Federal street, corner of Washington. This is the only death warrant preserved. First Provincial Congress. — In Salem, on Oct. 5, 1774, assem- bled the First Provincial Congress, which passed during its session a vote renouncing the authority of the British Parliament,— the first official act of the Province putting itself in open opposition to the home government. First Armed Kesistance to England.— On Feb. 26, 1775, the citizens of Salem offered the first armed resistance to the English government, in assembling at North Bridge and forbidding the prog- ress of Col. Leslie and a body of British soldiers. Salem in "War.— During the Revolutionary war, Salem furnished large numbers of men to fill the ranks of the army, and fitted out at least 15S vessels as privateers. In the war of 1812, forty armed vessels of the 250 furnished by the whole country were from Salem. During the war of 1861-5, more than 3000 men entered the Union service from this city, and more than 200 were killed. Among her martyr heroes were Brig. Gen. Frederick W. Lander and Lt. Col Henry Merritt. Commercial Record.— Salem has had a remarkable commercia 1 record. In 1825 there were one hundred and ninety-eight vessels owned in Salem. In 1833 there were one hundred and eleven en- gaged in the foreign trade. Salem "led the way from New England round the Cape of Good Hope to the Isle of France, and India, and China. Her vessels were the first from this country to display the American flag and open trade with St. Petersburg, Zanzibar, POCKET GUIDE and Sumatra ; with Calcutta and Bombay ; with Batavia and Arabia ; with Madagascar and Australia." 1 A City.— Salem was incorporated a city March 23, 1S36,— the sec- ond in the Commonwealth. Leverett Saltonstail was the first mayor. Railroads.— The Eastern Railroad, 2 chartered in 1836, opened rail communication with Boston, Aug. 27, lS.;.^'; the branch to Marble- head was opened Dec. 10, 1839, and the road east of Salem was opened as far as Ipswich Dec. 18, 1839, and to Newburyport June 19, 1840. The Essex Railroad (now owned by the Eastern; was opened to Lawrence Sept. 5, 1848, and the Salem and Lowell road was opened Aug. J. 1850. The next month the South Reading Branch Railroad was opened to South Reading (now Wakefield). On July 8, 1803, a horse-railroad was opened to South Danvers (now Peabody). Horse-cars were run to Beverly Oct. 28, 1863; to South Salem in 1S64, and to North Salem in 1869; to "The Willows" in 1877; and to Marblehead in 1884. The Salem and Danvers Street Railway was built in 1884, and was opened in the early summer of that year to Danversport, Danvers Plains, Danvers Centre, and Putnamville (June 25). The present year a branch is building from Danvers to Peabody. Water Works.— In December, 1864, the citizens voted to intro- duce water i'roin Wenham Lake, distant six miles, and the works were built at a cost of about $1, 000,000. The water was turned on for general supply Dec. 25, 1868. The level of the Water Works 1 For a full history of Salem's commercial record see " Sketch of Salem," Essex Institute, 1879. 2 The Eastern Railroad with all its branches is now leased to the Boston and Maine Railroad. TO SALKM. 5 reservoir is 142 feet above the base of levels; one of the engines pumps 5, 000,000 and the other 6,250,000 gallons per day. Statistical.— Salem is the ninth city in the State in population, the census of 1880 placing the number of inhabitants at 27, 563, an in- crease of 5,311 over 1860. It is the third city in Essex county, Lynn and Lawrence only exceeding it in population. The net bonded indebtedness of the city at the close of the fiscal year 1884 was $1,048,270.13, the net total debt was $1,064,190.08, a de- crease of $56,799.75 from the preceding year. The assessment for 1884 was on $25,360,772, of which $12,809,200, was personal estate. The number of polls in 1SS4 was 7,341. Names in Naumkeag Dis- trict Directory 12,870. The rate of taxation was $16 per $1000 in 1877; $15 in 1878; $13.50 in 1879; $14.50 in 1S80; $13.00 in 1881; $15.50 in 1882; $16 in 1883; $17.50 in 1884. The First Church —The first Puritan church organized in Am- erica was established in Salem in 1629, and its first house of worship was erected in 1634. It stood on the site of the present First Church edifice, on the southeast corner of Essex and Washington streets. The frame of the original structure is now in the possession of the Essex Institute, having been restored in 1864 through the liberality of the late Francis Peabody. On the erection of a second edifice in 1670, the original one was voted by the town to "be reserved for the town's use, to build a skoole house and watch-house." The public records prove that this building was in the town's use till J760, but the minutes of the town's doings from May, 1760 to May, 1764 are missing, and from the first named date the history of the building is established by tradition. It appears probable that in the year 1760 the old building was disposed of and that Thorndike Proctor, POCKET GUIDE who was at this time a conspicuous man in town affairs. Selectman and Moderator of Towu Meetings, and Grand Jury man, bought the oldest part and reerected it on his own land, back of what is now Boston street, where it was used as a tavern or a refreshment house. Here it slumbered undisturbed for a period of one hundred years, until it was takeu down in 1864. The frame was carefully preserved, restored to its original mortises, and placed within a good external covering. It is accessible to visitors on application at the rooms of the Essex Institute. The restored building is filled with articles of historic interest, among them the following: — A sofa brought from Normandy by some of the French Huguenots about 1685. The communion table of the East Church in Salem, used in its first house of worship erected in 1718. An iron christening stand used ISO years ago. The desk used by Nathaniel Bowditch while engaged in his noted translation of H Le Mecanique Celeste." The desk used by Nathaniel Hawthorne while Surveyor of the Port. A pew door from the First Parish Church at Hingham, built in 16S0. A "samp" mortar for pounding corn. A spinet— an old-time musical instrument, somewhat resembling a piano — made in Salem, and said to be one of the earliest instru- ments made in this country. A piano bearing the date 1791, and made in London. A fine collection of spinning and flax wheels, and of high backed mahogany chairs. At the northern end of the building are photographs of the first, TO SALEM I third and fourth edifices— the two earliest of course being from drawings. Also there are tablets containing the names of the sev- eral pastors, with the dates of their pastorates: 1629. Francis Higginson. 1630. 1629. Samuel Skelton. 1634. 1631. Roger Williams. 1635. 1636. Hugh Peters. 1641. 1640. Edw. Norris. 1658. 1660. John Higginson. 1708. 1683. Nicholas Noyes. 1717. 1714. George Corwin. 1717. 1718. Samuel Fisk. 1735. 1736. John Sparhawk. 1755. 1755. Thos. Barnard. 1776. 1772. Asa Dunbar. 1779. 1779. John Prince. IS36. 1824. Chas. W. Upham. 1844. 1846. Thos. T. Stone. 1852. 1853. George W. Briggs. 1867. 1S68. James T. Hewes. 1S75. 1877. Fielder Israel These are repeated on a tablet on the wall of the present edifice. In the hall of the present building may also be seen a marble tablet with the original creed of the church engraved thereon. This creed was as follows : We covenant with the Lord, and one with another, and do bind ourselves in the presence of God to walk together in all his ways according as he is pleased to reveal himself unto us in his blessed word of truth." Roger 'Williams House.— This house is on the northwest cor. POCKET GUIDE near of Essex and North streets, and is numbered 310 on Essex street. It was owned in 1635-6 by Roger Williams, who was "teacher" of the First Church for a few months in 1631, again in 1633, and minister in 1634-5. Opposition of the magistrates drove Williams from Salem and he went into the wilderness to become the founder of the State of Rhode Island. The house here referred to is familiarly called the "Old Witch House," from the fact that a tradition exists that prelim- inary examinations of those charged with witchcraft, in 1692, were held in one of its rooms. The house was occupied at that time by Jonathan Corwin one of the judges in the witchcraft trials. This is the oldest house in Salem or this vicinity. Visitors are ad- mitted on application at the apothecary store adjoining the house. A drawing of the house as it was in its early days may be seen at the Essex Institute, and photographs of this drawing and of the building as it now is may also be obtained at the Institute rooms. Witch Hill.— '-Witch" or "Gallows Hill" is a low hill in the upper part of the city, where the victims of the witchcraft delusion of 1692 were executed. It is about a mile from the ceutre of the city, and may be reached by horse cars miming to Peabody. The best view of the hill is from Highland avenue, the old Salem and Boston "turnpike." This location is also about a mile from City Hall, and is but a short walk from the corner of Essex and Boston streets, to which point horse-cars cau.be taken. Although not much is to be seen at Witch Hill, or from its summit, no stranger should omit to visit it as scene of the closing acts of the tragedies enacted in "Salem Village" two centuries ago. It is difficult to realize, standing on the spot where the fatal gallows was erected, that a delusion of such a nature could have taken possession of the people so forcibly as to lead them to convict TO SALEM. 9 even their leaders and their own kin of "dealing with the devil." But they became so powerfully influenced, after once the delusion obtained a foothold, that they thought only of ridding the community of the supposed emissaries of the evil one. North Bridge.— This is a small bridge across the North River, at tiie entrance to North Salem. On the north of the bridge a flag-staff bears the inscription "Retreat of Col. Leslie, Feb. 26, 1775." At this point on Sabbath day, the date mentioned, the townspeople assem- bled, and forbade the further advance of Col. Leslie and a body of the King's Regulars, who had landed at Marblehead and marched to Salem in search of cannon believed to be concealed in "North Fields." It seems that the alarm of the English was entirely needless, for the cannon had not been collected for warlike purposes, and were not "military stores" at all, being stored upon the wharf by private in- dividuals who had removed them from various merchant vessels, a general peace making them unnecessary. The affair at North Bridge was the first armed opposition of the military authority of Great Britain, and here was spilt the first blood of the Revolution, one of the crowd receiving a bayonet wound from a British soldier. It is supposed to have been near North Bridge that Gov. Win- throp's sou Henry was drowned, July 2, 1630. He had arrived in the ship "Talbot," July 1, and while crossing North River on the following day to visit an Indian settlement, he was drowned. Birthplace of Timothy Pickering. — Just above the High School building, Broad street, No. 18, stands the house in wliich was born, on July 17, 1745, the illustrious Timothy Pickering. As colonel of the First Regiment of militia he headed the assemblage at North Bridge, Feb. 27, 1775. Timothy Pickering was one of the most dis- 10 POCKET GUIDE tinguished citizens of Salem. He was Adjutant General at the Rev- olutionary battles of Germantown and Brandywine; Postmaster General 1791-5; Secretary of State 1795 to 1800; member of the U. S. Senate 1802-11; member of Congress 1811-17. The house above referred to has always been in the Pickering family, and is now occupied by a great-great-grandson of Timothy Pickering. Birthplace of Hawthorne.— In the house numbered twenty- one Union street, Nathaniel Hawthorne, the celebrated novelist was born July 4, 1S05. When he was four years old, Hawthorne's father died, and his mother took him to live in the family of his grandfath- er Manning, in the house No. 10 Herbert street, where he lived at different times when a boy and young man, and twice for short terms, after he had entered literary life. From 1828 to 1S32, Haw- thorne lived with his mother in a house adjoining that of his uncle Robert Manning, on Dearborn street. He lived, in 1846, in the house No. 18 Chestnut street, and in 1847 at 14 Mall street. All of these houses are standing. Hawthorne was a descendant of Major William Hathorne, who came over with Gov. Winthrop. His fame as a writer was of slow growth. In 1828 he published anonymously "Fanshaw," a romance, and in 1837 •' Twice-told Tales." " The Scarlet Letter " and " The House of the Seven Gables " are among his most fascinating books. Hawthorne died at Plymouth, N. H., May 19, 1864. Other Old and. Noted Houses.— Ou the western side of Wash- ington street, just above the Eastern Railroad station, stands the house [No. 148] in which Gen. Washington was entertained by Joshua Ward, on his visit to Salem in 1789. The building now occupied by E. A. Tierney as a furniture wave- TO SALEM. 11 house, at No. 205 Essex street, was the house of Dr. Edward Augus- tus Holyoke, who was the moving spirit in the organization of the Essex Historical Society, and its first president. Dr. Holyoke lived to the age of 100 years, 7 months. Nathaniel Bowditch was born March 26, 1773, ima house formerly numbered fourteen Brown street. The house has been moved to the rear on Kimball Court. Salem was the first port from which missionaries sailed for Cal- cutta. This was in 1812. Some of the early meetings in the mission eause were held in a room of a house now numbered sixteen Lynde street, and occupied by James Chamberlain. It was then the resi- dence of Wallace Price Bartlett. On Feb. 6, 1812, five persons were consecrated to the mission work at the Tabernacle Church, not the present building, but one on the same spot, corner of Washington and Federal streets. The house No. 4 Federal street, occupied by Abner C. Goodell, Jr., is said to be on the site of the old County Jail, where the victims of the witchcraft delusion were confined. A tradition runs that Giles Corey, one of the executed, was crushed to death here because he refused to confess. When arraigned in court he would not reply to the question '"guilty or not guilty," and the court decreed that he should be crushed in a press till he confessed. He still refused to confess, and submitted to the terrible punishment, urging that more weight be placed on him that he might die sooner. Corey was eighty-one years old. The Hon. Charles W. Upham, in his "Salem Witchcraft," designates the place of Corey's execution as afield be- tween Howard street cemetery and Brown street. In the house No. 12 Lynde street, Rufus Choate, the eminent law- yer and statesman, resided during the years that he spent in Salem. The house is now occupied by Hon. William D.Northend. 12 POCKET GUIDE These are the principal houses of historical interest, but many old fashioned houses are to be found in various parts of the city. The "old bake house." on St. Peter street, is a good specimen of the style of architecture prior to 1700. A similar house stands on Washington street, opposite the Court House. The Narbonne House, 71 Essex street, was built before 1680. Next west of the East India Marine Hall, Essex street, stands the Pickman House, built by Col. Benja- min Pickmau in 1750. Stores have been built in front of it. A walk or drive through the older streets of the city will prove of much interest to the stranger. In few cities are the old and new buildings so sprinkled in together. Notable among these streets are Essex, Derby, High, Federal, and many of the shorter streets in the lower part of the city. Many of the stately houses built during the first quarter of the century may be seen on Chestnut street, on Essex near Plummer Hall and around the Common. Such houses as these were occupied by Salem merchants in the days of her greatest commercial prosper- ity. South Salem is the newest part of the city. In this section, Lafayette street is given up to residences of the more modern char- acter, built, most of them, within twenty years. One notable excep- tion to the rule of modern houses on Lafayette St., is the beautiful residence of the lateE. Hersey Derby at the corner of Ocean Ave- nue. This is now transformed into a public house, "The Lafayette." II was built about 1S00, and is a fine specimen of the suburban resi- dence of a gentleman of wealth at that period. Business Locations.— Aloug Derby street are the wharves at which, in the days gone by, Salem vessels delivered into the now crumbling warehouses their precious cargoes from the most distant parts of the glube. The days of Salem's commercial prosperity have TO SALEM. 13 passed into history. The tumble-down wharves with their dilap- idated storehouses are all that remain for the stranger to look at. No more do the ships lie at the wharves from all the ports of the East, laden with the richest goods of the world. But Salem is not dead; go through her streets and one can but be impressed with her large retail business in numerous lines of trade. Her stores are many and well stocked; abundant capital is provided for the conduct of business, and the place bears a look of stability and permanent success. Leather manufacturing employs the largest amount of capital of any single line of business . This industry was established prior to 1639, and the earlier tanneries were in the vicinity of the Common, Liberty and Front streets. The capital employed in the leather bus- iness is over a million and a half of dollars. The manufacture of cotton cloth ranks next in importance employing a capital of $1,500,000. The leather manufacturing business is now principally located in the vicinity of Boston, North and Mason streets. Es?ex, Washington, Front and Central streets, are the locations of the chief retail trade; the Naumkeag Cotton Mills are on Harbor and Union streets; the Salem Lead Works on Saunders street; the Nevins Jute Mills on English and Skerry streets ; the Boston and Maine Railroad Car Works on Bridge street; the Hall Type Writer Factory on Derby street and smaller manufacturing concerns scat- tered throughout the city. Oldest Streets.— House-lots were laid out shortly after the ar- rival of Endicott in 1C28. Washington street was laid out four rods wide, connecting the ways that ran along the borders of the North and South rivers, and is the oldest street in Salem. Probably Essex street originally ran along the rear ends of lots fronting on each 14 POCKET GUIDE river, and the street was a natural result of a townway that came gradually into use. Among others of the very early streets may be mentioned Daniels, Elm, and Central streets, which led to " town landings " on South river. Noted Localities.— On ground now covered by the Asiatic Building, 135 Washington street, stood the dwelling house of the Rev. Francis Higginson, " Teacher " of the First Church 1629-30. It faced toward the South River. The house of the Rev. Samuel Skel- ton, the first pastor of the First Church (1630), was on land near the site of the police station, 11 Front street. On what is now the south- west corner of Essex and Washington streets, the site of Price Block, stood the house of the Rev. Hugh Peters, pastor of the First Church, 1630-11. Gov. Endicott's " Broadfield " was south of where Creek street now is. The location of the house of Gov. Endicott has never been satisfactorily settled. It was "east of Washington street and south of the North River," possibly near where Federal street enters Washington from the east. A tradition exists to the effect that the house was moved about 1679 to a spot where is now the corner of Washington and Church streets. An old house on that spot was claimed a few years since as the Gov. Endicott house. Small tack nails in a timber were thought to form the initials "I. E.," but on this point there has been much discussion. The building re- ferred to has been moved back on Church street. Our best local antiquarians feel entirely satisfied that this house cannot have been Gov. Endicott's. Roger Conaut's house is generally believed to have been on the site of the present Maynes Block, 202 Essex street, opposite the market. On the site of the house of the late Francis Peabody, next west of Plummer Hall, 136 Essex street, stood the house occupied by Simon TO SALEM. 15 Bradstreet, the last governor under the colonial government. He died there in 1697. In a house on the land now covered by Plurn- mer Hall, William H. Prescott, the historian, was born May i, 1796. In 1G77 the town-house stood in the middle of Washington street, anciently called School street, near what is nowLynde street. In this building the witchcraft trials were conducted. In 1719 the town-house was near the present southern parapet of the railroad tunnel. The first Provincial Congress assembled here. In 1785 the town-house was not far from the northern parapet of the railroad tunnel, and faced Essex street. It was removed when the tunnel was built in 1839. Some pictures of this building are preserved at the Essex Insti- tute. The present town-hall, Market Square, was first used on the occasion of the visit of President Monroe, July 8, 1S17. City Hall.— This building is on Washington street, just north of its junction with Essex street. It is a plain but substantial brick Structure, with granite front, and was built from the surplus rev- enue of the United States government, distributed among the States and by them apportioned among the cities and towns. The hall was completed in 1838. The old town records may be seen at the City Clerk's office, and the janitor will show strangers through the dif- ferent departments. In the Aldermen's room hangs a fine portrait of Washington, painted by Frothingham, copied from one by Stuart; it was presented to the city by A. A. Low, Esq., of Brooklyn. In the same room is a portrait of Hon. Leverett Saltonstall, Salem's first Mayor. In the Council chamber is a picture of Washington, painted by Jane Stuart, a copy of one by her father. Here is also a picture of Lafayette painted in 1840 by Charles Osgood, the well- known portrait-painter of Salem, from the original picture by Morse. 16 POCKET GUIDE A -'teachers' libi'ary," comprising about 200 volumes of educational and standard werks, is deposited in a room in the City Hall. The library is owned by the teachers of the public schools. The City Hall was enlarged in 1876, and the room used for sessions of the Board of Aldermen was remodelled in 1880. The City Hall is open from 8 A. M 1 . to 5 P. M., and evenings when the city government is in session. City Government— The City Government consists of a Mayor, seven Aldermen, and twenty-four Councilmen, four from each ward, and twenty School Committee men. Arthur L. Huntington is Mayor, John P. Peabody chairman of the Board of Aldermen, and John Robinson President of the Common Council. The Aldermen hold meetings on the first Monday and on Thursdays following the second and third Mondays in each month. The Council meets on the second and fourth Mondays in each month. The School Committee consists of tweuty members— three from each ward — and the Mayor and President of the Council, members ex officio. The Mayor is chairman. Meetings are held monthly. The Police Department consists of a City Marshal, Assistant Mar- shal, Captain, Sergeant, twenty-eight patrolmen, eight special pa- trolmen and sixty-four constables. John W. Hart is Marshal. An auxiliary of the Police Department is the '•' police telephone system" consisting of a line running into each ward with two or more stations id each, from which patrolmen make reports to the Central station at regular intervals, day and night. The Central Police Station is at ls T o. 11 Front Street, and a sub-station at "the Willows." The Fire Department consists of a Chief Engineer, four Assistant Engineers, three steamer companies, one hook and ladder company and five hose companies. Josiah B. Osborn is Chief Engineer. OF SALEM. 17 Two steamers are located at No. 30 Church street, near Washington, and one at the junction of Lafayette and Washington streets; the hook and ladder truck on Bridge street, foot of St. Peter; Hose One at the corner of Derby and Bentley streets ; Hose Two on Webb street, near Pleasant; Hose Three on Beckford, near Essex street; Hose Four on Boston, corner of Goodhue street; Hose Five on North Street, above Dearborn. Other City Officials.— City Clerk, Henry M. Meek; City Treas- urer, Francis A. Newell; Commissioner of Streets, Joseph C. Fos- ter; City Physician, Frank S. Atwood; City Solicitor, Forrest L. Evans; Inspector of Buildings, Aug. A. Smith; Assessors, Eleazer Austin, J. Shove Symonds, Nathaniel M. Jackman; Water Board, Alonzo H. Smith (President), William Leonard, Samuel Brown, Emery K. Benson, Chas. Higbee ; Clerk of Water Board, Nathaniel M. Brown; Superintendent of Water Works, Benjamin S. Grush. " Town Hall."— The ''Town Hall" and market house, now stand- ing in Market Square, w r as built in 1816. It cost about $12,000. The lower story was opened as a market Nov. 26, 1S16, and the hall above was first opened to the public July 8, 1817, the occasion of the visit of President Monroe to Salem. It was used for "Town Meet- ings" and other gatherings till the incorporation of Salem as a City, in 1836. The interior of the hall retains much of its original appear- ance. Over the speaker's stand, on the wall, is a medallion head of George Washington, carved by Samuel Mackintire, and at the opposite end are two fine bas-reliefs in white on a dark blue ground. The market house is leased to various parties for meat and provision "stalls." The land on which the Town Hall stands was a portion of the es- tate of Elias Hasket Derby, a successful merchant. He built in 18 POCKET GUIDE 1799 a mansion, facing Essex Street, which cost $SO,000. The square now occupied by the Town Hall was named Derby Square in his honor, but is generally referred to now as Market Square. Custom House.— The United States Custom House is at 112 Derby Street, corner of Orange. It is a large brick building, and is out of all proportion to the present business of the port. Until within a few years, the room in the Custom House occupied by the novelist, Hawthorne, while he was surveyor of the port, 1816 to 1849, contained his old desk and other articles in use by him. The desk has been transferred to the care of the Essex Institute, and may be seen in the old church, rear of Plummcr Hall. Many strangers visit the room in which Hawthorne is said to have found the manuscript telling the sad story of Hester Prynne, related in "The Scarlet Letter." In the words of a recent writer, "The subtle genius of the great writer has reflected a halo of interest around the Custom House, which brings travellers from far and wide to visit it." Gen. James Miller, who won fame at the battles of Chippewa, Niagara and Fort Erie, during Gen. Harrison's western campaign in 1811, was collector of the port of Salem from 1825 to 1849. Business hours at the Custom House are 9 A. M. to 3 P. M. Richard F. Dodge is Collector. Court Houses.— At the corner of Federal and Washington streets, are the county court houses. The granite structure, locally called "the old court house," to distinguish it from the one more recently built, was erected in 1841 ; thebi-ick one in 1861. The court sessions, except those of the Probate Court, are held in the latter building. In the stone court house may be seen a large collection of witchcraft documents, including depositions taken, records of testimony, and the death warrant of Bridget Bishop, the first person executed. Also TO SALEM. 19 there are shown the "witch pins" with which the "afflicted ones" claimed to be pricked. In the office of the Register of Deeds are recorded many curious deeds, the earliest in the county. Over the judge's bench in the new court house hangs a fine portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, the distinguished jurist. This portrait was painted by the late William M. Hunt, and is considered one of his masterpieces. A portrait of the late Judge Otis P. Lord of Salem, by F. P. Vinton of Boston, was placed in the courtroom in 1881 and in 1885 a portrait of Rufus Choate by the late Joseph Ames. This was presented by Hon. B. F. Butler to the Essex Bar Association . There also hangs here a portrait of Judge Putnam. The Supreme Court sits in Salem on the third Tuesday of April, and on the first Tuesday of November. The Superior Court holds sessions for civil business in Salem on the first Mondays of June and December; for criminal business on the fourth Monday of January. The Probate Court sits in Salem on the first and third Mondays in each month, except in August, when a session is held on the first Monday only. The library of the Essex Bar Association, organized Dec. 2, 1850, has a fine library of over 5,000 volumes deposited in the new Court House. Plummer Hall.— This building is at No. 134 Essex street. It is owned by the Salem Athenaeum and was built from a fund be- queathed by Miss Caroline Plummer. It was completed in 1857, and is occupied jointly by the Salem Athenaeum and the Essex Institute, the former a literary society organized is 1810; the latter a literary, historical and scientific society organized in 1848. Plummer Hall is located on a part of the estate of Emanuel Down- 20 POCKET GUIDE ing of the Inner Temple, London, who came to Salem in 1636, whose daughter Anne became the wife of Governor Bradstreet, and on this spot that distinguished personage lived and died. In a house on the same estate William EL Prescott, the historian, was born. The " Bradstreet house" wastakeu down in 1750. The lower floor of Plummer Hall, occupied by the Institute, con- tains a lecture room with a seating capacity of about three hundred ; an ante-room used by the officers of the society, and a room de- voted to the exhibition of its historical collections. In this latter room are many interesting and valuable portraits painted by Cop- ley, Smibert, and others; also views of old buildings, silhouettes, etc. A case is devoted to Revolutionary relics; another to ancient household utensils and the like; several cases are filled with pot- tery, and others with specimens of different fibres. In this room the visitor will see the sun-dial owned by Gov. Endicott, a pair of gloves worn by Gov. Leverett, the christening robes of Gov. Bradford, documents relating to the witchcraft delusion, manuscript sermons and many other articles of historical interest. This is the finest existing collection of relics and curiosities, illus- trative of the history, characteristics, arts and industries of Essex county. Beside these collections, Plummer Hall contains a very considerable one of busts of men of local or general reputation, a large number of valuable portraits ; many rare and choice engrav- ings and prints; a mo6t interesting accumulation of old maps and charts; large and well arranged collections of coins and medals; a series of very valuable autographs, etc., etc. The library room at Plummer Hall is a large and handsome room on the second floor. The libraries of the Athenaeum and Institute are arranged on opposite 6ides. The library of the former society contains about 16,000 volumes; TO SALEM. 21 that of the latter about 30,000 bound volumes and a very large collec- tion of pamphlets, newspapers, documents and the like. The annual Athenseuni assessment is $5; the Institute $3; each giving the privi- lege of using both libraries at the rooms, and the circulation of the one in which a membership is obtained. The Institute holds " field meetings "in different sections of the county in the summer for his- torical aud scientific rambles, and evening meetings are held in its lecture room during the winter, for lectures and the reading of com- munications. The Institute also gives courses of scientific and other lectures, concerts, art and horticultural exhibitions. The regular meetings are held on the first and third Monday even- ings of each month, and the field meetings at such times and places as may be appointed. The most notable paintings to be seen at Plummer Hall are enum- erated below : John Endicott, Gov. Mass. Bay, 1028. Simon Bradstreet, Gov. Mass. Bay, 1679. Thos. Gushing, Lieut. Gov. Mass., 1780. Dr. Edw. Aug. Holyoke, born 1728, died 1829. Rev. William Bentley, East Church, 1783. Timothy Pickering. The War Summons, representing an incident in the " War of the Roses." A Dutch Interior. Trial of George Jacobs for Witchcraft. Alexander Hamilton, 1st Sec'y U. S. Treas'y. Hon. Leverett Saltoustall, first mayor, 183'j. Hon. S. C. Phillips, second mayor, 1838. Daniel Webster, U. S. Sec'y of State. 22 POCKET GUIDE Sir William Pepperell, captor of Louisburg, 1745. John Leverett, Gov. Mass. Bay, 1673. 3 Plummer Hall is open from 8.30 a.m, tol P. M., and from 2.30 P. M. to 6 P. M., from April 1 to Oct. 1 ; and from 8.30 A. M. to 1 P. M., and from 2.30 P. M. to 5 P. M., from Oct. 1 to April 1. Dr. Henry Wheatland is President, and Geo. M. Whipple, Secre- tary, of the Essex Institute. Dr. Wm. Mack is President of the Athenaeum, and R. C. Manning, Treasurer. The Peabody Academy of Science was founded by George Pea- body of London, in 18G7. This institution occupies East India Ma- rine Hall on Essex street, which was bnilt in 1824. The East India Marine Society was organized in 1799, when the formation of a museum was immediately begun. The collections were first arranged in a room in the building now standing on the northeast corner of Essex and Washington streets, and afterwards in the old bank building occupying the present site of Downing block, 175 Essex street. The collection increased rapidly and dur- ing the height of Salem's commercial activity East India Marine Hall was built, the lower floor to be occupied for business offices and the Post Office, the hall above to serve as a museum room and for the meetings and banquets of the society. The hall was dedi- cated in 1825, John Quincy Adams delivering the opening address. While the commercial period lasted, the accessions to the ethnologi- cal department of the museum from the South Sea Islands, China, Africa, India and South America were very numerous and valuable, and at the annual meetings of the Society there came together, so- cially, the travelled merchants and mariners of Salem, and many 8 A full description of these pictures with a great many interest- ing historical notes may be found in " Guide to Plummer Hall," for sale at the rooms. TO SALEM. 23 have been the elegant suppers served on the curved table which formerly occupied the centre of the hall. But as the commerce of Salem decliued, the society became unable to expend an amount sufficient to properly sustain the museum, as the charities of the institution required all that was realized from the invested moneys and assessments. During this latter period, the Essex Institute, an outgrowth from the Essex Co. Natural History Society formed in 1S34. had accumulated a large and valuable collection of specimens of natural history which required much care and a large expendi- ture of money for its proper preservation and exhibition. In 1S66, Mr. Geo. Peabody of London, then visiting Salem, had his attention called to the condition of affairs, and was induced to give a sum of money, the income to be expended for scientific purposes in Essex county and to increase the usefulness of these collections. In 1867, $140,000 was placed in the hands of several trustees who purchased East India Marine Hall and refitted it, and who were in- corporated as the Peabody Academy of Science. The museum of the East India Marine Society and the natural history collections of the Essex Institute were placed in the cabi- nets of the refitted hall as permanent deposits and these, united with such collections as the Academy has since added, form the museum as now arranged. Thus closed this portion of the labors of the East India Marine Society which published (in 1821), one of the first catalogues of a museum in this country, and the value of whose scientific work was acknowledged by students, in the reports of government officials, an I was commented upon in autograph letters, now in the museum, from Presidents Jefferson and Madison. But although this Society no longer conducts investigations nor 24 POCKET GUIDE maintains a museum, the charities, one of the fundamental objects at the time of its formation, are still continued, the income of funds for the benefit of unfortunate members and their families being annually distributed. Since 1867 the Academy has published several scientific memoirs, besides annual reports, containing much valuable matter in relation to natural history. A summer school of biology was established, where, for six seasons, lectures by well-known specialists were de- livered and laboratory instruction given m all branches of natural history. Large classes in botany, mineralogy and other branches of natural history have also been successfully conducted during the winter months. The officers of the Academy arc: Hon. William C. Endicott, Pres- ident; Prof. Edward S. Morse, Director; John Robinson, Treasurer in charge of the museum ; John H. Sears, museum assistant; Arthur P. Stone, Librarian. The museum is open free to visitors every week day from 9 until 5 o'clock. The average number of visitors is upwards of 36,000 an- nually. Entering the door upon Essex Street the visitor passes through the long entry leading to the stairway of the exhibition hall. In this en- try way one finds casts of extinct animals, jaws of the sperm whale, large chama shells, the largest of all bivalves, one of which was the first gift to the museum in 1790 by Capt. Jona. Carnes. In the vesti- bule by the stairway is a beautifully designed terra cotta tablet placed to the memory of the late Caleb Cooke, a former assistant and curator of the Academy who was associated with the institution from its organization. Passing to the Museum, the hall is divided by a central case into two portions, the eastern being devoted to the TO SALEM. 25 ethnological collections (chiefly derived from the East India Marine Society), the western to natural history collections (chiefly from the Essex Institute). The gallery is devoted to the natural history and archasology of Essex county. As the visitor enters the museum his attention will be at once called to the ethnological collections on the eastern side of the hall arranged according to the races of man and the coxintries from which the specimens came. The name of each country will be seen upon large tablets over the cases. Upon the floor and in some instances surmounting the cabinets, will be noticed several specimens too large to be placed in the cases. Among these are two large Chinese pottery bath tubs; a Chinese cannon, mounted on a camphor-wood carriage; a Malay "Jingall" or rail swivel gun; the Sandwich Island god of medicine "Koila Moku," which stood for many years upon a Hawaiian plain, sur- rounded by the bones of those who had crawled thither to seek re- lief and a palanquin, the common vehicle of travel in India, which is borne on the shoulders of four bearers and which was purchased in Calcutta in 1803 by several Salem merchant captains who chanced to meet there and forwarded as a gift to the E. I. M. Soc. There are also several models of vessels including tbose of the U. S. frigate "Constitution," presented by Commodore Hull in 1813 and repaired by British prisoners of war in 1814, the "Ohio," and the Salem ship "Friendship" one of the famous vessels which early made voyages to the east during the last century. Passing to the right the visitor will first notice the case marked India.— The collection from this country begins in the case directly over the entrance way, in which is a group of life-size clay figures of Indian merchants, with whom the merchants of Salem held commer- cial relation in the early part of the century. There are besides in 26 POCKET GUIDE the adjoining case figures of clerks, priests, mendicants, snake charmer, etc., etc. These are copies from life of the different sub- jects, of native workmanship. There are also numerous smaller figures from eight to twelve inches high illustrating the different castes and trades seen in the streets of Calcutta. Farther on is a full size figure of "Nasavangee," a Bombay Parsee merchant mod- elled from life especially for the E. I. M. Soc. All these figures are accurate likenesses of the persons they represent. This collection contains specimens illustrating the manufactures of India and nu- merous articles of domestic use, conspicuous among which are many elegant "Hookahs" together with the "nubble bubbles" or water pipes used by the lower classes, and the "chebooks," several with stems six feet in length. At the end is a carved wooden column from Burmah being a religious monument made in honor of the dead and an excellent collection of idols and emblems of the native faiths. Africa.— The curious "Tomtoms" or drums at once attract our at. tention. These are carved from soft wood and are hideous and grotesque. This case contains many interesting "gregrees" or charms used by the priests, some fine mats, and cawed seats cut from a solid block of wood. The Arabian and Algerian rifles and bridles are of much finer workmanship, among which is one beautiful specimen, the gift of General Timothy Pickeriog. There are also many bows, arrows, knives and spears of much interest. Japan. — One of the first cases to attract the visitor upon entering the hall is that containingthe collection from Japan which is a late addition to the museum. This collection was made by the director during a recent visit to Japan, and is in part received in exchange TO SALEM. 27 for specimens sent by the Academy to the Educational Museum at Tokio. To this exchange collection, which comprises complete sets of tools of tradesmen and artisans, were added by purchase, and dona- tions from many liberal friends of the director, large numbers of specimens illustrating almost every department of the ethnology of the Japanese. The collection is arranged., as are those from other countries, in accordance with the system adopted by the Leip- sic Ethnological Museum, that being generally accepted as the best modern arrangement. First in the case are the life-size figures illustrating the Samurai and peasant classes of society, and the warrior in full armor of the period previous to the restoration of the mikado. These figures are very beautifully made and costumed. The Samurai family consists of a gentleman and wife with their girl and boy. The peasant family, of a farmer and wife, who carries upon her back their infant. The warrior is clothed in a gorgeous suit of armor, and wears a helmet surmounted by a lofty set of carved antlers. These are followed by a collection of upward of thirty varieties of swords, many of very beautiful workmanship and of great age and a still larger collection of sword hilts and small kuives. Further on are military hats, bows, arrows, war pikes and spears and officers' battle signals. The collection of tools is very complete and includes those of the carpenter, cooper, ivory carver, lantern maker, fisherman, lac- qxierer, stone cutter, ribbon maker, and many others, and also the models of a silk loom, etc. The collection of clothing is quite full, and that illustrating the household besides pretty models of the kitchen and tea room, contains nearly all the articles of daily do- 28 POCKET GUIDE mestic use fitly represented. Among the musical instruments are several of beautiful design and rare workmanship, and besides these are specimens illustrating writing, toys, amusements, religious life, etc., etc. The Japanese collection, previously in possession of the museum, contained several rare and valuable specimens including some trays, cups and teapots brought from Nagasaki in 1802 by Capt. Samuel G. Derby, probably the first Japanese articles ever brought direct to this country. This old collection, together with the recent additions, makes an exhibit of Japanese ethnology unequalled in this country, and probably not excelled in any foreign museum. China.— This country is very fully represented. The collection con- tains life-size models, in costume, of a mandarin, two wealthy Chinese merchants, and smaller ones illustrating the various trades and call- ings, and the priests, card players, horsemen, etc. The collection of musical instruments is particularly good nearly all the native ones that are used being found here. The visitor should notice the carved ivory spheres of which there are two specimens where to the number of twenty they are cut to re- volve one within another; the idols and bronze incense burners, the kites and toys, the articles of food and boats of which there are many excellent models to be seen including one of the "Junk" so familiar in all accounts of China. There is also of special interest an opium set recently contributed by Mr. Wm.Dolan of Hong Kong, including the pipe, tools for hand- ling the opium, lamp and cushion to recline upon, and a collection illustrating the native Materia Medica of China, including some 200 different specimens. TO SALEM. 29 Korea.— In 1883 a collection from this hitherto little known coun- try was received, being obtained for the Academy by Count Von Mollendorff at Seoul the capital of Korea. The collection gives a very good idea of the surroundings of the common people of that country and includes costumes, ornaments, porcelain and pottery ware, tools, implements of war and of domes- tic use, cloths, papers, etc. This collection is, for want of room on the lower floor, arranged in a case in the central gallery, where a number of objects from Singapore, Anam and Java, collected by the director in 18S2, are temporarily arranged. Polynesia.— The most valuable collection in the museum undoubt- edly is that from the South Sea Islands. Commenced before civili- zation had reached these far-off places the specimens are free from the effect of European contact and their genuineness is assured. The implements of war, fishing and domestic use, are now replaced by those of European manufacture even where the tribes of people themselves have not, as such, become extinct. This collection is replete in war clubs, hand clubs, carved and ornamented batons, spears, paddles, adzes, etc. A fine assortment of fishing hooks, lines and spears, and another of plain and exten- sively ornamented and imprinted cloths and braided tunics are to be seen, besides many unique head ornaments, wigs, necklaces, bracelets of pearl, shell, ivory and hair. There are a large number of fans, models of houses and temples, domestic articles, models of boats of many forms now obsolete, carved ornaments for canoes and carved boxes and several fine specimens of the " ava " bowls which were used to hold the fermented drink made by the natives of Ota- heite. In the section devoted to the objects from the Malay Penin- sula are many beautiful specimens of the Creis and cutlass one of 30 POCKET GUIDE the latter being a gift to Capt. Enrlicott of Salem, from the Rajah Po Adam by whom Captain Endicott was befriended when his vessel was captured by natives on the Sumatra coast. North America is represented by models of Esquimaux boats and canoes, clothing, pipes, implements and the bows, arrows, leather and cloth work of the Indian tribes besides a fine collection illustra- ting the stone age in North America (this last is arranged in a rail case in the eastern gallery). Mexico is represented by clothing, saddles, casts of idols, etc., and a collection of beautifully executed figures of native workman- ship, illustrating the trades, castes, and costumes of the native people. South America.— The most characteristic specimens from this country are the feather work capes, head-dresses and trimmings from Brazil; the models of" Catamarans " or native rafts which are capable of enduring even a heavy sea; and the collection of vases, jars and bottles from the ancient graves of Peru. These latter are of great antiquity and show infinite variety of form and ornamentation. There are several twin whistling jars in the collection. By blowing in the mouth of one jar a shrill whistle is produced in its mate. Europe is but poorly represented in the ethnological department, as the ship masters, to whom the museum is indebted for its treasures, seldom visited the continent of Europe in comparison with their voy- ages to the East, and the South Seas. Therefore there is but little of interest beyond the few relics of Herculaneum and Pompeii which are arranged in the end case which also contains the Egyp- tian relics, chiefly portions of mummies, amulets and idols from ancient graves. A curious and delicate wood carving however, TO SALEM. 31 given to the E. I. M. S. by E. H. Derby, deserves special mention. This is supposed to be the work of a monk in the fourteenth century, and represents "Heaven and the day of Judgment." The carving is but 2£ inches in diameter; the two subjects being represented in separate hemispheres. There are in all one hundred and ten full length figures carved with such skill that they bear the closest scrutiny with the aid of a powerful magnifying glass. The whole may be closed and placed in a leather cover. In a case at the southern end of the room are placed relics of the E. I. M. S., as an organization : the society banners, badges, roll of members, besides four fine porcelain punch bowls one of which celebrates the passage of the first Salem vessel to Canton, China, in 1786, and two others of Liverpool ware, the gift of Beuj. Hodges and made in the year 1800. There are also two huge soup tureens of porcelain which with the bowls were used at the annual ban- quets of the society in this ball. Near this case is another in which all the recent additions to the Museum are placed for a few months or until properly classified and arranged in the cabinets. Zoology.— Passing just beyond the case containing the relics of the East India Marine Society, and commencing on the easterly side of the central case on the western side of the hall are the general zoological collections. Beginning with the lowest infu- sorial form, the visitor, by passing around the central case and back again along the line of wall cases, as indicated by the letters of the alphabet on cases at the top of the sections, will follow out in a gradually rising order the arrangement of the collection, ending with the highest form represented by the human skeletons in the case directly opposite the one at which he began. This col- lection is intended to be a synopsis of the animal kingdom and is 32 POCKET GUIDE arranged according to the latest ideas in relation to the structure of animals. It is intended not to show the different species, but to in- struct visitors by means of type specimens as to the methods of classification by the natural system, and is especially arranged to be of service to teachers of zoology. Many of the groups are illus- trated by outline drawings and glass models of perishable spec- imens. The most striking features of the collection may be briefly mentioned : a very fine collection of corals particularly rich in East Indian species and fan corals ; a large collection of radiates, mol- lusks and Crustacea, the largest portion of which including the alco- holic specimens are, for want of exhibition space, kept in storage cases in the lower room, only accessible to students; a large collec- tion of snakes and turtles; a good assortment representing the fam- ilies of birds; a collection of marsupials, the peculiar animals of Australia; and a collection of mammals including stuffed spec- imens, skeletons and skulls of the principal orders. A large part of these specimens were received from the Essex Institute in 1867. Over the cases are large specimens of an alligator, sword fish, and the under jaw of the sperm whale (from an animal estimated to be over eighty feet long) and the lower jaw of a finback whale recently added to the collection. Essex County Collections.— One of the principal objects of the Academy is to preserve and exhibit specimens of every species of animal or plant found growing naturally in the county of Essex. This collection occupies the entire gallery. Beginning at the north- west corner, they are arranged in a manner similar to the zoolog- ical specimens below. This collection is rich in the animals from the waters of our har- bors, and contains almost a complete set of the county birds which TO SALEM. 33 occupy some seventy-five running feet of case room. The larger fishes are arranged on the wall over the cases, and the skeleton of a blackfish from Beverly hangs over the central case between the galleries. The mammals include some very fine specimens of the wild cat, seal, raccoon, woodchuck, skunk, rats, squirrels, bats, etc. At the noi'thern end of the eastern gallery are arranged the archaeo- logical collections from the county, undoubtedly the finest local col- lection to be found. This contains, besides the usual number of axes, celts, gouges, pestles, arrow and spear points seen in collec- tions, a large number of other specimens including skeletons from graves, and the entire contents of a shellheap, besides many other interesting specimens. A collection of Essex County minerals and rocks is arranged in the rail case. The botany of the county is represented by a collec- tion, very nearly complete, containing upwards of 1,600 species mounted of some 3,000 sheets (in the lecture room), and a collection of the woods of Essex County trees arranged in the central case in the gallery. The latter contains a full set and is illustrated by out- line and colored plates of the leaves and flowers of the trees. Large specimens of the woods are placed over the cases at the southern end of the hall. Portraits.— Besides the scientific collections are the portraits of the leading merchants and members of the East India Marine Soci- ety, including those of Derby, Gray, Peabody, Bowditch, Neal, Sils- bee, Pickman, Bertram and others; these form an important ele- ment in the value of the whole collection in connection with the history and growth of the city of Salem. In addition to the collections on exhibition, the Academy owns a very large collection of minerals, geological specimens and shells, 34 POCKET GUIDE for which room cannot be found in the museum, although it is hoped they may be placed on exhibition in the near future. Students and others who may desire to gain more information in relation to the specimens than is afforded by the labelling of the col- lection may apply at the office on the lower floor, where such assist- ance will be rendered that may be possible, and where the books of the library may be consulted. City Buildings.— The High School building on Broad street, built in 1856, the Bowditch School, on Dean street, built in 1S70, the Phillips School, on Washington Square, rear of Essex street, built in 18S3, and the Bertram School, on Willow avenue, built in 18S0, are the best specimens of school architecture in the city's control, though all the school buildings are substantial and creditable. The fire department houses are nearly all good, the best examples being the quarters of the steam fire engines on Church street, the house at the junction of Lafayette and Washington Sts.,andthe hose houses on North, Derby, Webb, and Beckford streets, occupied by Active, Reliance, Constitution, and William Penn companies, re- spectively. The buildings at Wenham Lake (six miles from the city) occupied as the pumping station of the City Water Works, and a building on Church street, occupied by the same department are substantial brick structures, and are well adapted to their uses. The Police Station is on Front street. It is a plain brick building, and has a lock-up connected with it. Its offices and guard room are well arranged. A library of about 800 volumes, contributed by cit- izen- and members of the police force, is arranged in cases in one of the rooms. It is a very good collection and contains many valu- TO SALEM. 35 able books. A cabinet of police curiosities occupies a place in toe assistant marshal's office. The almshouse is a large old-fashioned brick building, on city land at "the Neck." An insane wing, just completed at a cost of about $27,000 is connected with it. The grounds are nicely kept, and a good farm supplies vegetables. The street lamp department and the City Water Works pipe de- partment occupy buildings on Bridge street, near the foot .of St. Peter street. The City Hall, Police Station, almshouse and fire department sta- tions are connected with the telephone exchange, which gives com- munication throughout the city, and there is beside a special police circuit. Normal School.— The State Normal school for girls is at the cor- ner of Summer and Broad streets, and is a handsome building of brick with freestone trimmings. The building was dedicated Sept. 14, 1854. The school is regarded as one of the most successful in- stitutions of learning in the State. It is supplied with a fine set of scientific and chemical apparatus. The library contains about 9,000 volumes. Prof. D. B. Hagar is principal. Tuition is flee to those who comply with the condition of teaching in the public schools of Massachusetts. For the assistance of those who find even the moderate expenses burdensome, the State makes an annual appropriation, one-half of which is distributed at the close of each term among pupils from within the Commonwealth who merit and need aid. Post Office.— The United States Post Office occupies the lower floor of the new building at 118 and 120 Washington St., having ex- 36 POCKET GUIDE tremely commodious quarters specially arranged for the business of this department of the public service. The building is in the colonial style of architecture, of brick with wood and iron trimmings. Over the main entrance to the Post Office is a fine reproduction of the United States coat of arms and over the southern door on Washington street one of the city seal. This build- ing, from its ancient style will attract the attention of a stranger at once. The Post Office is open on week days from 7.30 a. m. till 8 p. m., and a half hour later on Saturdays. On Sunday, the office is open from 11.30 A. m. to 12.30 P. M. Free collections and deliveries are made three times daily, except on Sundays, when one collection is made, but no delivery. Salem Post Office is a money-order office for domestic points, and for all foreign points. There are seven mails on weekdays for Boston, four for New York City, and the same number for Philadelphia, Washington, the South and West. One general mail is made up on Sundays. J. Frank Dalton is Postmaster, and John O. Chapman Asst. Post- master. MAILS CLOSE FOB Boston, 7.45, 10.30, a.m. 12 m. 3 30, 6.30, 8.30, 9 p.m. Lynn, 7.15, a.m. 12m. 3.30,6.30 p.m. Beverly, 7.30, a.m. 3.30, p.m, Towns on B. M. R. R. East, 7.30, a.m. 3.30, p.m. Newburyport, Portsmouth, Maine and Provinces, 7.30, a.m. 3.30, 6.45 p.m. Portland, 7.30, a.m. 12 m. 3.30, 6.45 p.m. Essex, 7.30 a. m., 3.30, p. m. Gloucester, 8, a.m., 2.15, 7.15, p.m. TO SALEM. 37 Towns on Gloucester branch, 8 a.m., 2.15, p.m. Peabody, 8.30, a.m., 12m., 4.15, 6, 9, p.m. Danversport, Danvers, Asylum Station and Middleton, 8.30, a.m., 4.15, p. m. Topsfield, Georgetown and Lawrence direct, 4.15, p.m. Marblehead and Nanepashemet, 7.45, a.m., 12 m., 3.45 p.m. New York City, 12m., 3.30, 8.30, 9, p.m. Philadelphia, Washington and South, 12 m„ 3.30, 8.30, 9, p.m. Western Mail, 8.30, a.m., 3.30, 9, p.m. Canada East and West, 7.30, 10.30, a.m., 12 m., 3.30, 8.30, 9. p.m. No. Conway division, 7.30, a.m., 3.30, p.m. Lowell, 7.30, 10.30, a.m., 12 m., 3.30, 8.30, 9, p.m. Lancaster and Boston, No. of Lawrence, 9, p.m. MAIL8 DUE FROM Boston, 6.58, 8.18, 10.55 a.m. 1, 4, 7.20 p.m. Lynn, 8.18, 11.25 a.m. 4. 7.20, p.m. Beverly, 8.18, a.m. 12.35, 6.38 p.m. No. Conway, 12.35, 4.20 p.m. State of Maine and Provinces, 6, a.m. 12.35, 4.20 p.m. Portland, 6, a.m. 12.35, 2.20, 4.20, p.m. Essex, 12.35, 4.20, p.m. Gloucester, 8.18, 10.55, a.m., 2.20, 6, p.m. Magnolia, 8.18, a.m. 2.20, p.m. Towns on Gloucester Branch, 10.55, a.m. 6, p.m. Peabody, 8.18, 10.55 a.m. 2.20, 5.22, 6.56 p.m. Middleton, 8.45, a.m, 6.56, p.m. Manchester, N.H., Lawrence and Boston, No. of Lawrence, 6.56, p.m. Danvers and Danversport, 10.55, a.m. 5.22, p.m. 38 POCKET GUIDE Asylum Station, 8.45, a.m. 5.22, p.m. Lawrence direct, 8.45, a.m. Topsfield and Georgetown direct, 10.55, a.m. Marblehead and Nanepashemet, 7.45, a.m. 2.20, 5.22, p.m. Lowell, 6.58, 8.18, 10.55, a.m. 1, 4, 7.20, p.m. New York City, 6.58, 8.18, 10,55 a.m. 4, 5.57, p.m. Philadelphia, Washington, South and West, 6.58, 8.18, 10.55, a.m. 4, 5.57, 7.20. SUNDAY MAILS Close for Boston, South and West, 5, p.m. Close for the East, 7, p.m. Due from Boston, South and West, 9, a.m. 7.40, p.m. Due from the East, 9, a.m. Boston & Maine Railroad Station. — ; One of the most impos- ing fronts in the city is that of the Boston and Maine Railroad pas- senger station, Washington street. It has two high granite towers, and a solid granite front, of beautiful design. The building was erected in 1847, and with the exception of the front was nearly re- built in 18S2, the wooden part of the original structure having been destroyed by fire on the night of April 6, 1882. W. H. Archer is station master, L. W. Maiden, ticket agent, and C.'A. Chandler, freight agent. The office of H. Bissell, master of Maintenance of Way of the Eastern and Northern Divisions of the road is in the Salem station. District Court.— The First District Court of Essex occupies the second story of Flint's Building, on Washington street, opposite the Railroad station. This is a neat building of brick, with granite trimmings. The site occupied was filled in a few years since, when Washing- TO SALEM. 39 ton street was extended across the South River. Until within a dozen years, schooners came up to the old "City Mills,'' where the Boston and Maine R. R. engine house now stands. Sessions of the District Court are held at 9 A. M. daily for criminal business, and on Wednesdays at 10 a.m. for civil business. J.B.F. Osgood is the presiding judge, D. E. Safford and Nath. J. Holden as- sociate justices, and Samuel P. Andrews, clerk. Public Halls.— Mechanic Hall, 2S5 Essex street, nearly opposite Sewall street, is the largest hall in the city. It seats 1100. It is owned by the Mechanic Hall corporation. It was built in 1839, and remodelled in 1870. An organ, costing nearly $0000, was placed iri the hall when it was remodelled, through the efforts of an energetic committee of citizens. This hall supplies the place of a theatre and large concert hall. Benjamin Shreve is president, and Chas. Harrington, treasurer of the Mechanic Hall corporation. Lyceum Hall, on Church street, seats about GOO. It was built in 1831, and is owned by tiie Salem Lyceum, an organization which in- augurated a course of lectures the year previous, and has continued them each season since, at the uniform cheap rate of $1 for each course. The list of those who have lectured before the "Lyceum" includes the names of the most famous lecturers of America. This is the oldest institution of the kind (with perhaps a single exception in the country. Of the Salem Lyceum the Hon. George B. Loving is President, Chas. S. Osgood, Secy., and Gilbevt L. Stveetev, Treas. There are a number of halls well suited for gatherings, parties, and the like. The principal of them are Kinsman's Hall, next to City Hall, Washington street, and Hamilton Hall. Cambridge street, cor. Chestnut street. Post 34, Grand Army, occupies a hall at 17 St. 40 POCKET GUIDE Peter street, the ancient order of Hibernians, Phoenix Hall, Central street. The Churches.— Salem boasts no "elegant church edifices," ac- cording to the genei-al acceptance of the term. The North (Unitarian) Church, on Essex street, above North, is an imposing structure of granite, and, with its vine-covered front, is much admired by lovers of the beautiful. It was completed in 1836. The society worshipping here is the successor of the congregation that, headed by its pastor, the Rev. Thomas Barnard, left the church one Sabbath afternoon, Feb. 26, 1775, and hurried to North Bridge, to assist in repelling the invasion of Salem territory by British troops. It was Dr. Barnard's moderation and good counsel that prevented the affair at North Bridge from being a serious conflict. The church, then of wood, at that time stood on the site of the resi- dence of Dr. C. A. Carleton, corner of North and Lynde streets. St. Peter's (Episcopal) Church, corner of St. Peter and Brown streets, is also a solid building of granite, and was erected in 1S33. In 1777, Episcopal services were suspended in Salem, owing to the passage by the legislature of a law prohibiting the reading of the Episcopal service under a penalty of £100 and one year's imprison- ment. Even the church building shared the opposition of the peo- ple, and it was ransacked and much damaged. A fine chime of ten bells has just been placed in the tower of the St. Peter's Church, and was first rung on St. Peter's Day (June 29). The East Church, on Brown street facing the Common, is a very neat edifice of freestone. It was dedicated in 1846. It is said that, during the war of 1S12, the pastor, the Rev. William Bentley, dis- missed his congregation and hastened to Marblehead to assist in the defence of the town and of the American frigate "Constitution,'' which had been chased in there. TO SALEM. 41 The South (Congregational) Church, corner of Chestnut and Cam- bridge streets, is surmounted by a spire 166 feet high, which is re- garded as a very symmetrical and beautiful piece of church archi- tecture. It was designed by Samuel Mackintire. None of the larger churches are of recent construction. Most of the interiors are neat and modest. Appended is a list of the churches in the city : First Church, Unitarian ; corner of Essex and Washington. Rev. Fielder Israel. Friends, Quaker; corner of Pine and Warren. No settled pastor. East, Unitarian; Brown, opposite the Common. Rev. Geo. H. Hosmer. St. Peter's, Episcopal; corner St. Peter and Brown. Rev. Chas. Arey. Tabernacle, Orthodox; corner Washington and Federal. Rev. De Witt S. Clark. North, Unitarian; Essex, above North. Rev. E. B. Willson. South, Orthodox; corner Chestnut and Cambridge. Rev. E. S. Atwood. First Baptist, Baptist; Federal, between Washington and North. No settled pastor at present. Universalist, Universalist ; Rust, corner Bridge. Rev. E; C. Bolles. Lafayette St. Methodist Episcopal, Methodist; corner Lafayette and Harbor. Rev. W. P. Ray. Barton Square, Unitarian; corner Essex and Barton Square. Rev. B.F. McDaniel. Central Baptist, Baptist; St. Peter, opp. Federal. Rev. Chas. A. Towne. Crombie Street, Orthodox; Crombie Street. Rev. L. B. Yoorhees. 42 POCKET GUIDE St. James, Roman Catholic; Federal, above Dean. Rev. J. J. Gray. Immaculate Conception, Roman Catholic; Walnut, opp. Charter. Rev. W. H. Halley. Grace, Episcopal; Essex, above Monroe. Rev. J. P. Franks. New Jerusalem, Swedenborgian ; Essex, above, Cambridge. Rev. D. V. Bo wen. Calvary Baptist. Baptist; Essex, corner Herbert. Rev. S. H. Emery. Wesley Chapel. Methodist; Sewall street. Rev. W. P. Odell. St. Joseph's French Catholic ; 39 Lafayette street. Rev. F. X. H. Vezina. Advent, Hardy Hall; Washington street. Rev. Geo. W. Seder- quist. Deaf Mutes, Evangelical; 223 Essex street. Philo W. Packard. The hours of church service are 10 A. M., and 3 P. M. The Unitar- ian churches, the South, and the New Jerusalem, hold no afternoon services, the afternoon being given up to Sunday-school work. Salem Hospital.— This institution, 31 Charter street, near the foot of Liberty street, was founded in 1S73, through the libei\ality of Capt. John Bertram and other citizens. It is a large brick building, admirably fitted for hospital service. It has telephonic communi- cation with all quarters of the city. Visitors are admitted on Wednesdays from 2 to 5 p. M. Applica- tions for admission can be maerch, locally called " cunners," may be caught in abun- dance. Further out, on the sunken ledges, small cod may be taken, and a few miles in the Bay mackerel schooners are frequently seen in the season for catching that fish. The harbor is sometimes thickly specked with " lobster buoys," indicating the places where the traps are sunk. Sail boats can readily be engaged with a competent skipper for excursion parties, and boats for rowing can always be secured at a small rate per hour. Excursion steamers afford opportunities for enjoying brief sails at a very moderate expense. These boats start from " the Willows " wharf. 74 rOCKET GUIDE TO SAEESI. To those who wish to become more familiar with Salem and its vicinity, and the history of this section, the following hooks are sug- gested : " Annals of Salem," 2 vols, by the Rev. J. B. Felt. Two editions —1827 and 1845. [Very scarce.] "Salem Witchcraft," 2 vols, by the Hon. Charles W. Upham. Published in 1867. [Very scarce.] "Old Naumkeag," an historical sketch of the city of Salem and the towns of Marblehead, Peabody, Beverly, Danvers, Wenham, Man- chester, Topsfield and Middieton. By Charles II. Webber and Win- field S. Nevins. Published in 1877 by A. A. Smith & Co.. Salem; Lee & Shepard, Boston. Price, $2.00. " An Historical Sketch of Salem, 1626-1879," by Charles S. Osgood and Henry M. Batchelder. Published by the Essex Institute, Salem. 1879. Price, $5.00. Paper edition (not illustrated), $1.00. " The North Shore of Massachusetts Bay," a guide and history of Marblehead, Salem Neck and Juniper Point, Beverly and Cap'e Ann." By Benjamin D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins. Published at Salem, 1879— new edition 1885. Price, 25 cents. "History and Traditions of Marblehead," by Samuel Roads, Jr. Published by Houghton, Osgood & Co., Boston, 1880. Price, $3.50. "The Naumkeag District Directory," compiled and published by Henry M. Meek, contains valuable historical and statistical infor- mation in regard to Salem. Salem, 188-1-5. Price, $2.00. The " Historical Collections " of the Essex Institute, published quarterly at $3.00 per annum, contain many valuable articles, relat- ing to local history, genealogies, copies of records, etc. iustidieix:. Advertisements, 79. Am. Assoc. Adv. of Sci., C8. Athenseuru, 19, 20. Banks, 44. Beverly shore, drive to, 70. Birthplace of Hawthorne. 10. Birthplace of Timothy Pickering, 9. BoatClnb,65. Boston & Maine Railroad Station, 38. Bradstreet House ,20. Business Locations, 12. Cemeteries, 51. Charitable Society Buildings, 44. Churches, 40. City Buildings, 34. City Government, 16. City Hall, 15. City Officials, 17. Commercial Record, 3. Common, 48. Conant's House, 16. Court Houses, 18. Custom House, 18. Dan vers, drive to, 71. District Court, 3S. Drives, 72. (75) 76 INDEX. East India Marine Society, 22. Eastern Railroad, 4. Electric Light, 45. Endicott House, 14. Essex Institute, 19. Expresses, 61. Fire Department, 34. First armed resistance to Eugland, 3. First Church, 5. First Provincial Congress, 3. First Settlement, 1. Flower and Fruit Culture, 64. Forts, 49. Franklin Building, 43. Fraternity, 63. Geological, 65. Halls, 39. Harhor, 73. Harbor Excursions, 73. Harmony Grove, 51. Historical Books, 74. Horse Railroad, 56. Hotels, 61. House of Seven Gables, 63. Incorporation of City, 4. Insurance Companies, 44. Jail, 68. Juniper Point, 49. INDEX. 77 Leslie's Retreat, 9. Mails, 36. Manchester, drive to, 70. Manufacturing, 13. Marblehead, drive to, 69. Marblehead Neck, drive to, 69. Masons, 66. Military, 65. Miscellaneous, 67. Nahant, drive to, 69. Newspapers, 62. Normal School, 35. North Bridge, 9. Noted Houses, 10. Noted Localities, 14. Odd Fellows, 66. Old Custom House, 68. Old Houses, 10. Old Ladies' Home, 43. Old Men's Home, 43. Old Streets, 13. Peabody Academy of Science, 22. Peabody, drive to, 71. Plummer Farm School, 43. Plummer Hall, 19. Police Department, 35. Post Office, 35. Public Halls, 39. 78 IS DEX . Railroad Communication, 51. Railroads (Historical), 11. Restaurants, 62. Roger Williams House, 7. Salem Hospital, 42. Salem in War, 3. Salem Neck, 19. Societies, 66. Society Buildings, 11. Statistical, 5. Stearns Building, 68. Swampscott beaches, drive to, 69. Teachers' Library, 16. Telephone, 45. Town Hall, 17. Towns set off, 2. Views of the city, 04. Washington Square, 48. Water Works, 4. Wenham Lake, drive to, 72. « Willows," 46. Witchcraft delusion, 2. Witch Hill, 8. " Witch House," 9. Yacht Clubs, 65. Y. M. C. A., 63. M VISITORS can reach all points of Historic Interest IN AND ABOUT SALEM TAKING- THE CARS OF THE Naumkeag St. Railway. THE WILLOWS. SALEM NECK, One of the most attractive summer resorts on the New England Coast. L 1 Specially desirable for Picnics and Private Parties. r Steamer "Three Brothers" makes several trips daily between the Willows and Lowell Island, and occasional excursions among the islands in the har- bor. THE WILLOWS SALEM NECK, THE PAVILION, fl first-class restaurant, in charge of Mr. Nelson P. Wentworth. SKATING RINK. One of the largest and best in the State ; under charge of H. N. McCully. WILLOW PARK. Fountain, Flowers, Flying Horses, etc., IPish JDiixnei^s, ClcLirhbcLpces, MUSIC. J~olxTL TV. A.ye,T>s, CABINET MAKER ' - AND - UPHOLSTERER, Eastlack, Chippendale and Colonial furniture reproduced to order from authentic models. FACTORY: (Recur of S Lafayette Street. Buff urn, Poor & Co., WASHINGTON SQUARE STABLES, 23 Brown Street. Elegantly equipped carriages, with careful and exper- ienced drivers, can be had for a drive about the city. CONNECTED BY TELEPHONE. THIS BOOK WAS PRINTED AT THE SALEM PRESS, -Corner of Liberty and Derby Sts., Salem. The best place in Essex County to go for JjooTi: CLlLti JuO QPlfitTLtiTLg of all kinds. Our motto is, G-OOI) WOEK while our prices are as low as the lowest. The ofiice is fully equipped in new machinery of the most approved kind, enabling us to execute at shortest notice all work intrusted to us. BEST WORK! LOWEST PRICES ! PROMPT DELIVERY ! Doii't forget the place SALEM PRESS, Corner of Liberty and Derby Streets, Salem, Mass. (JEO. A. BATES, Manager. A. B, CROSS 06 1-2 JEsscjz St. SALEM, MASS, FALL RIVER LINE For New York, South and West. The renowned steamers PILGRIM and BRISTOL are now in commission for the summer. These magnificent vessels were never in better condi- tion to accommodate their patrons thau they are this season. MUSIC on board every evening during season of pleasure travel by the celebrated Bands and Orchestras which are a special feature of this line. SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAIN leaves Boston from OLD COLONY STATION, Boston, at G p. M. week day, 7 p. m. Sundays, connecting with steamer at Fall River in 80 min- utes. "Annex" steamer connection for Brooklyn and Jersey City. Tickets, staterooms and berths secured at No. 3 Old State House, corner of Washington and State streets and the Old Colony Station, Boston, or of L. W. Marden, Ticket agent B. & M. R. R., Salem. Send for list of EALL RIVER LINE Tours and Excur- sions and "Tip End of Yankee Land." J. R. KENDRICK, L. H. PALMER, Gcn'l Manager. Agent. 3 Old State House. Boston & Lowell Railroad. THE DIRECT AND DESIRABLE ROUTE BETWEEN SALEM AND Lowell, Lawrence, Weirs, Centre Harbor, Ply- mouth, The Summit of Mt. Washington, and all parts of THE WHITE & FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, AND THE STATES OF JVezv Hampshire and Vermont. MONTREAL, QUEBEC AND ALL CANADIAN POINTS. PULLMAN BUFFET PARLOR AND SLEEPING CARS arc ran between Boston and Montreal, and during the summer, PAR- LOR CARS between Boston and the White Mountains. Salem tieket office 85 Washington Street, CHAS. ODELL, Agt. LUCIUS TUTTTiE, C S. MELLEN, General Passenger Agent General Superintendent. Boston & Maine Railroad FOR THE White Mountains, Mt. Desert, Lakes Winnepesaukeo, Moosehead & Rangeley OLD ORCHARD, HAMPTON & RYE BEACHES, Cape Ann and Isles of Shoals. Portland, Bangor, St. John, Halifax and ■ QUEBEC. J AS. T. FURBER, V S 1). J. FLANDERS, Gen'l Manager. Gen'l Pass. Agt. WILLIAM MERRITT, Jll., I). W. SANBORN, Supt. West'n Div. Snpt. East'n Div. I Redding, Baird & Co. ANUFACTURERS OF i DOMESTIC & ECCLESIASTICAL Stained Glass, Memorial Windows, Ground and Cut Glass. IMPORTERS OF AND DEALERS IN ROLLED CATHEDRAL GLASS. OFFICE AND SHOW ROOMS, 152 Franklin St., Boston, Mass, W. S. REDDING. J. C. BAIRD. Telephone Connection. New Mail Order Department. It is fitting that Salem should remain first in culture and taste in Ladies' dress and apparel, for Salem merchants were the first Importers of fine goods. We have established a Mail Order Department for the whole country at the suggestion of the non-resident patrons of our Dry Goods business. Our great business is done at small expense, and our policy is to sell the best qualities at the smallest possible profit. We import novelties and select the choicest American Fabrics, many of which we control for this section. Custom Tailor-made Dresses and Garments a spe- cialty. Information freely given. Samples and Mdse. sent post-paid to any address. We refund the money for articles not satisfactory as represented, if they have not been worn. ALMY, BIGELOW & WASHBURN, Salem, Massachusetts.