COMPREHENSIVE DESCRIPTION OF VIRGINIA, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA: CONTAINING A COPIOUS COLLECTION OF GEOaRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, POLITICAL, COMMERCIAL, RELIGIOUS, MORAL, AND MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION, CHIEFLY FROM ORIGINAL SOURCES. BY JOSEPH MARTIN. TO WHICH IS ADDED A HISTORY OF YIRGINIA, FROM ITS FIRST SETTLEMENT TO THE YEAR 1754, WITH AN ABSTRACT OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS FROM THAT PERI«D TO THB INDEPENDENCE OF VIRGINIA. BY W. H. BROCKENBROUGH, "'^RMERLY LIBRARIAN AT THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA, AND AFTERWARDS JUDOK OF THE UNITED STATES COURT IN FLORIDA. J. W. RANDOLPH, No. 121, Main Street, Richmond. t TO THE 3IEMBERS OF THE VIRGINIA HISTORICAL AND PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY Gentlemkv, Excuse the liberty 1 take in asking the protection of your name, for a work which I am compelled to throw upon the world under the most inauspicious circumstan- ces. You seem to constitute the most appropriate body, to which I can look for aid in perfecting the great work which I have undertaken, and of which this imperfect es- say constitutes the first fruit. To render a work of this description a perfect picture of the moral and political condition of a state, and a faithful record uf its progress to its present condition, the efforts of no single individual can be adequate ; but the united and persevering exertion of a number of gentlemen associated for the express pur- 4 DEDICATION. pose of investigating and developing the resources of the state, and finding and preserving the records of its histo- ry, are absohitely necessary. I now venture to call your attention to the first work which has ever appeared since the publication of Mr. Jefferson's notes, which professed to embrace all which could be ascertained of the present situation of Virginia, and some investigation of its past history. That materials for a much more copious detail of both subjects exists, no one can doubt, but with the hope that the information here collected may not be alto- gether useless, I venture to ask the protection of j^our countenance. And remain, gentlemen, With tlie greatest respect. Your most obedient And most humble Servant, JOSEPH MARTIN. PREFACE. We are well aware that it is considered by critics to be an act of unpardonable im])erlinence to obtrude an imperfect work upon the notice of the public, and then apologize for its imperfections. But we beg leave to as- sure their C3'nical Lordships that this is no meat for them, and of course they need not whet their beaks at our an- nouncement of its imperfections. Our apology is not made to deprecate their wrath, but in deference lo a gen- erous public, which will i)e thankful to the enterprize which gives it a mass of information which was not pos- sessed before, nnd not cavil because every fact is not giv^i) which exists, or those which are given are not in the very best form in which they could have been presented. The publisher of this work lays claim to no literary at- tainment whatever: he only claims the merit due to bold- ness in enterprize and unconquerable perseverance in execution. lie has been u})wards of two years col- lecting the materials for this work, from individuals re- siding in every quarter of the state, expending much money in the acquisition of his matter, at a time when he was scarcely able to su])port his family. But this method of collecting matter, although it ])roduced considerable delay, ensured the most recent and authentic informa- tion which could be p^^ocured. The almost innumerable contrilnitions when received had to be examined and ar- ranged, and such parts as were thought either useful or in- teresting, culleil from the mass of unnecessary matter which sometimes encumbered the communications. — When this was done, and the publisher thought he had obtained such an amount of inlormation as would be highly useful, although it would not form a perfect Gazetteer of 6 PREFACE, Virginia, he resolved to publish and rely upon subse^ quent editions to make up the deficiencies. But here a new difficulty occurred: — without credit and without capi- tal, it seemed impossible to find an individual to print, or one to edit the book. The huge mass of undigested manuscript was presented to several literary gentlemen, who shrunk from the task of arranging so voluminous a collection of ill- written man- uscript, upon the contingency of being paid by the sale of the work. At length, however, a young man who had no experience in such matters was induced to undertake it, but his occasional absence and necessary attention to other business, added to a most illegil)le chirography caused many errors of the press which it was out of his power to correct. The printers also were new in their 'business, and not prepared for conducting it with that at- tention to neatness and accuracy which was desirable.^ But although there are many glaring tj'pographical er- rors, which the editor could not correct, because he did not see the proof sheets, it is believed that very few of them effect the sense, and still fewer falsify statements of fact. The publisher has at length struggled through diffici;]- ties, which often seemed insuperable to less persevering men, and now presents the work to the public, if not as perfect as it might be, yet certainly as perfect as he ^^aui^^ at this time make it. The publisher feels it his duty to render the most grateful acknowledgments to the many individuals who have rendered him assistance in the collectioi^ of mate- rials ; and begs leave to mention the names of a few lite- rary gentlemen to whose kindness he is under especial obligation, — among these are Messrs. James E. Heath of Kichmond, Lewis Summers of Kanawha, Lucien Minor of Louisa, J. R. VV. Dunbar of Winchester, Thomas S. Plea- sants of Goochland, VV". G. Minor of Caroline, J. R. Fitz- hugh of Stafford, R. L. Cook of Augusta, Archibald Stu- art of Patrick, Linn Banks, of Madison, William Shultice of Mathews, A. Sparks o( Southampton, F. Mallory of Norfolk, H. L. Hopkins of Powhatan, J. Minor of Spott- sylvania, J. H. Lee of Orange, Wm. Green of Culpeper, PREFACE. 7 Wm. A. Harris of Page, R. B. Seniple of King & Queen, Yeardley Taylor of Loudoun, Isaac Flesher of Jackson, Wm. Burk of Monroe, S. Philips of Bedford, J. D. Mc- Gill of Middlesex, N. M. Taliaferro of Franklin, G. W. G. Browne of Wythe, J. J. Williams of Frederick Wm. J. Williams of Charlotte, Joseph Jenney of Prince William, James P. Carrell of Kusscll, B. F. Dabney of King William, Joseph Duff of Lee, James Garland of Nelson, Wm. Wilson of Bath, and Edgar Snowden of Alexandria. Many more have sent in contributions well worthy of special notice, who have been perhaps as libe- ral as these gentlemen in the extent of their communica- tions, and the trouble they seem to have taken, but ife would be difficult to know where to stop, if he was to publish the names of all to whom he is under obliga- tions. Such portions of the Gazetteer as are not original have been compiled from the Encyclopoedia Americana, the Gazetteer of the United States, Elliott's District of Columbia, or Oflicial Documents. Apology is due for publishing the hasty composition which is called rather from its length than its character, a History of Virginia. The publisher promised in his pros- pectus between six and seven hundred pages, and all who saw his manuscript volumes supposed they would, unless very extensively curtailed overrun a thousand, but when the matter came to be edited and printed, it did not hold out as well as was supposed. This unfortunately could not be ascertained until the Gazetteer was through the press, and then it was necessary to fill it up with a more extensive, instead of the concise, history which had beeo promised. The time was of course too limited, being written as fast as three active compositors could print, for the author to have an opportunity to pay any attention whatever to his languge or style, or to digress upon the many topics which so invitingly offered, or turn his eyes for a moment to other colonies or countries. He was compelled to pro- ceed with the single isolated narrative of Virginia history, and he trusts that the subject itself is so interesting that it will be read even in his hasty sketch. Were he and his work not both infinitely too humble for criticism to hawk « PREFACE at, he would expect to be torn in pieces for the audacity of dignifying the hasty composition of Utile more than a fortnight, with the noble name o[ history-, but he feels })er- fectly secure in his insigniticance, and if the insect swaria of little critics should be inclined to inflict their venomous stings upon him, he can throw around himself a shield, which even their utmost fury cannot penetrate, and that is the consciousness that his hasty sketch was not written with the expectation of meeting with approbation as a philoso})hic treatise upon the history of Virginia, but merely with the hope of j)resenting a succinct and faithful narrative of the early events of the colony. This he has labored assiduously to effect, consulting ever}' authority which it was possible to examine in so shojt a time ; and if on any subject, all is not said which might have been said, or all which is said is not true, he at least feels sure that he has respectable authority for every word he utters, atid that he believes all to be true. All the circumstances of the case, we doubt not with a liberal public, will ensure this first attempt to describe Virginia as it exists at the present day, a favorable recep- tion ; and it will respect the disposition and the enter- prize w^hich has given them so much, rather than blame the stern poverty which would not allow the publisher to wait longer, Avithout receiving some emolument. With the proceeds of this edition he expects to be able to sub- sist, until he can prepare a work more worthy of the noble state whose moral and physical attributes he d.elineates. It will be perceived tliat a new j)lan has been adopted in the arrangement. Iiistead of giving a continuous al- phal)etical list of subjects and places, from tlie beginning to the end of the volume, by which means much repeti- tion must occur, and frequent references have to be made in order to obtain an account of any county or section of country ; the work is divided into three parts, first a gene- ral description of the moral and physical character of the whole state is given, and then of the two great portions, eastern and western Virginia separately, and under these latter heads a general description is given of each county, in alphabetical order, and under each county an alphabeti- cal list of the most remarkable places it contains ; a gene- PREFACE. 9 ral alphabetical index at the end completes the system. The object of this arrangement was to present to the mind each separate portion of country at once, in a connected view, so that the reader at a distance might form as good an idea of the state of improvement in each county, as it he were on the spot, which it would be impossible to do, if each little place was scattered through the book in a gen- eral alphabetical arrangement, whilst it was thought that the general index w^ould make it as convenient for pur- poses of mere reference as it would be under the old sys- tem. The same wish to present a connected view, and the dif- ferent characteristics which distinguish Eastern and Wes- tern Virginia, produced the division of the state into these two portions. It is unnecessary lo enlarge upon the necessity which existed for such a work, it has been felt by every traveller, man of business, and literary man in the community ; and the information here collected, existed for the most part only in the minds of those who have contributed it. The desideratum is not yet however fully supplied, -as no indi- vidual lias been found willing to contribute the informa- tion, which was wanting with regard to many of the coi.n- ties; but this it is hoped may be obtained in time for another edition. With a hope that what is already accom- plished will meet the expectations and approbation of those who have so liberally patronized him, the work is for the present dismissed. J3V THE PUBLISHER. TABLK OF CONTENTS. Dedication. -•- = ... 3 Preface, ....... 5 List of tables, - - = • - . 13 List of errata, -. = . = .. 14 Table of abbreviations, • • • - - 15 General Description of Virginia, =■ - - - 16 Situation, boundaries, and extent, - - - - ib. Face of the country, • - - - - ib. Geology and Mineralog)*, - - - - 23 Mineral waters, - - - - - -24 Scenery and Natural Curiosities, - - - - 25 Mountains, .-. = .. 27 Bays, harbors, rivers, swamps, . = = . 36 Climate, - ■ . . . . - - 57 Political and moral condition, Population, .»,. = = 66 Government and laws. - . • - = 69 Civil list, .,..., 72 Laws, -' = --- - 75 Religion, .--«-.• 76 Education, ...... 77 Military organization, arms, &.c - • 83 Lunatic hospitals, » - . , , . 85 Penitentiary, ,...=,. ib. Internal Improvement, . . . . . 87 Manufactures, - - - = • 99 Agriculture, .... = - ib. Commerce, • = - • - -100 Fiscal concerns, - • ■ - - ■• 101 Revenue. • • - - • - - 103 Banks, - - • ■ - = 104 Remarks on arrangement pursued in description of counties, - i 1 Eastern Virginia, - - - - - - 111 Western Virginia—Introduction, . . , - 297 " General Description, - ■- - 299 Virginia House of Delegates, - • - - - 469 Senate, .,..,- 470 District of Columbia, 471 Establishment, situation, boundaries, and extent, - - ib. Soil, - 473 Geology and Mineralogy. . . . - 474 Climate. - • " - • - = - 476 CONTENTS, n District of Columbia. Aborigine?, .... Population, .... Government, .... Alexandria, Fisheries on the Potomac, Water Fowl on the Potomac, Washington City, Congressional Districts of Virginia, Klectoral Districts, .... Virginia Election Laws, " Ratification of U. S. Constitution, Declaration of Rights (June 12, 1776,) Table exhibiting the population, 6cc. &c. &c, HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. Page. 476 ib. ib. 477 480 482 496 512 513 515 523 ib. 528-9 CHAPTER. I Introduction, Progress of Commerce, Roanoke Settlements. Merit of discovering America, — Advancement of Commerce by the Crusades — in the Italian cities — in Spain — in Portugal, — Dis- covery of America. — England, — Want cf Commerce in early times, —Voyages of the Cabots, — Progress of En.glish discovery, — Fro- bisher — Gilbert — Raleigh, — Failure of the Roar.oke settlements, 531 CHAPTER II. Settlement .\t James Toun, — Sufferingp of the Colonists, — Adventures of Smith. — Nevv- Company raised — its charter,— James Town, — Machinations against Smith, — Difficulties of the colony, — Smith taken prisoner — his release. — Arrival of Newport, — Discovery of earth believed to be gold, — Departure of Newport, — Survey of the Chesapeake and its waters by Smith, — Smith made President, — Second arrival of Newport, — Judicious conduct of Smith, — New Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness of the selection, — Nevv settlements, — Accident to Smith — his depaiture, — his character, - - . . , - ' o 15 CHAPTER III. Progres.s of the Colony,— Massacre of 1662,— Dissolution OF THE London Company.— State of the colony at Smith's depar=> ture, — its conduct and consequent sufferings. — Arrival of Gates ■■ of Lord De La Ware, — his departure. — Arrival of Dale,— Martial law, — Gates governor, — Grants of land to individuals, — New char- ter,— Marriage of Pocahontas,— Friendly relations with the In- dians, — Subjection of Pqrt Royal and Manhattan, — Cultivation of Tobacco, — Tenure of lands,~Tyranny of Argall, — Propriety of reform in the government. — Yeardley governor, — First colonial assembly in 1619. — Introduction of women, — Introduction of ne- groes by the Dutch in 1620. — Constitution brought over by Sir Francis Wyatt. — Relation.s with the Indians, — Ma.ssacre of the 22d of .March. 1662, — its consequences, — Struggle.? between the king ami- the company, — Commissioners sent lo Virginia, — Firmness of the Virginians, — Dissolution of the company. - - 55s 12 CONTENTS PAGE. CHAPTER IV. Progress of the Colony from the Dissolution of the Lon- don Company, to the breaking out of Bacon's Rebellion IN 1675. — Accession of Charles I. — Tobacco trade, — Yeardley governor, — his commission favorable — his death and character. — Lord Baltimore's reception, — State of religion, — legislation upon the subject, — Invitation to the Puritans to settle on Delaware Bay. — Harvey governor, — Error with regard to his early administration, — Dismemberment of the colony, — Grant of Carolina and Maryland, — probable cause of discontent. — Harvey deposed — restored, — Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legislature improperly censured, — Berkeley governor, — Indian relations, — Opechanranough prisoner, — his death, — Change of government in England,'^Fleet and army sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for defence by Berkeley, — Agreement entered into between the colony and the commissioners of^the commonwealth, — Indian hostilities, — Matthews elected gover- nor, — Difficulties between the governor and the legislature, — adjust- ed, — State of the colony and its trade, — Commissioners sent to England, — The Restoration,— General legislation, - - 576 CHAPTER V. Bacon's Rebellion, — Ho.«tile Designs of the French. — Indif- ference to change in England, — Navigation act, — Convicts,— Con- spiracy detected, — Discontents,~Cessation from tobacco planting for one vear. — Royal grants,-gtVirginia's remonstrance, — Success of deputies, — Indian hostilities, — Army raised and disbanded by governor, — People petition for an army, — elect Bacon commander, — he marches without commission and defeats Indians, — pursued by governor, who retreats on hearing of rising at Jam.es Town, — Governor makes concessions, — Bacon prisoner, — is pardoned. — People force commission from governor, — Bacon marches to meet Indians, — hears he is declared a rebel by Berkeley, — marches to meet him, — he flees to Accomac, — Convention called and free go- vernment, established—Bacon defeats the Indians,— Berkeley ob- tains possession of the shipping, and occupies James Town,— is beseiged bv Bacon, and, driven out, — Jamestown burnt. — Death of Bacon, — character of his enterprise. — Predatory warfare, — treaty between governor and his opponents, — Cruelty of Berkeley, — King's commissioners, — Departure of Berkeley and his death. — Acts of Assembly passed during Bacon's influenxe. — Conduct of king'* commissioners, — Culpeper governor, — Discontents, — Con- duet of Beverly. — Howard governor. — General conduct of Vir- ginia and progress of afiairs.— Plan of De Callier for dividing the ^ British colonies, ------ oJ9 Sketch of Virginia history from thp bpn-;..>,;n.r of the FreMich war to the beginning of the Revolution, - ' *^'''' LIST OF TABLES. Jefferson's and Watson's Meteorological observations, - - 61 Population, -...-.- 67 School Commissionerfi' Reports, - - - - ' 78 Militia and Arms, ,.---. 83 Convicts, ....-.- 86 Improvements contemplated, ----- 95 Fund, ------ 96 Receipts into Treasury, • - - - - 101 Disbursements from Treasury, - - - - 102 Revenue from each county, - . . , . - 1.03 Banks, - -" ■ - - - • - lO-i Students of the University, - - - - - 126 Tobacco trade of Lynchburg, Petersburg, and Richmond, - 140 Louisa population, - - - - - - 219 Population of District of Columbia, .... 47(3 " of Alexandria, ..... 479 " of Georgetown, ..... 494 " of Washington, ..... 499 Costs of Federal Buildings, ..... 508 Table of Population, &c. &c. of each State, - - - 528 Table of Time of Election, &c. &c. .... 529 ERRATA. ***In this list only such errata are collected as effect the sense. Page 69. 12 lines from the bottom for "erected" read "created." " 67 and 68, the total population of Virginia is given as 1,211,375 instead of 1,211,405, — the error arises from an error in the column of Female Slaves, p. 68. " 139. Top line, for "dram" read "dam." " 151. Five lines from the top dele "H-^rvey's Store." repeated second time. " 154. Top line, for "1778" read "1748." " 160, Right hand column, 11th line from bottom, for "depulated" read "depopu- lated." " 176. Left hand column, dele "Laurel Spring," which belongs to Albemarle, see p. 114. " 215. Upperville is in the wrong place — transpose to Fauquier p. 174. " 234. Right hand column, Lombardy Grove, distance from R. given twice — ibe last one is correct. . . ■' 248. Right hand column, 10 lines from top, for "1,338" read "338." ' -'' " 275. " " 14 " for "Baoad" read "Broad." " 284. Left hand column, 12 " . for "Thombupg" read "Thorns- burg." " 339. Four lines from bottom, for "Logan" read "Fayette." " 355. Left hand column, 18 lines from top, for "Ut lund inter minores sideres," read, " inter omnes velut inter ignes Luna-rnijnopes.", " 135. Left hand column, line 23d from top, for "August and September" read "April and August." " 276. First line on top, for "1831" read "1833." '- " Fifth line from top, for '-Shenandoah" read "Page." ABBREVIATIONS. p, o. - p. V - p. T. - C. H. ms. Distance from "W." "R." Co. Post-OfTice. Post Village. Post Town. Court House, miles. Washington. Richmond. County. Mntn. - - - Mountains. Long. - - - Longitude. Lat. - - - Latitude. Sq. ms. - - - Square miles. The rest, such as N. E. W. S. &c.for the points of the compass are sufficiently mani- fest. GAZETTEER OF VIRGINIA. PRE JLIMIN ARIES. SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, AND EXTENT. Virginia was one of the original thirteen, and is now one of the twenty four United States of North America; it lies between 36° 31', and 40° 39' north latitude; and 6° 35' Avest, and 1° 48' east longitude from Washing* ton city: it is bounded on the north and northeast by Pennsylvania and Ma- ryland, east by the Atlantic ocean, south by North Carolina and Tennessee, and west by Kentucky and Ohio; its mean length from east to west is 355 miles, its mean breadth 185 miles, and its horizontal area 65,624 square miles. The Atlantic bounds Virginia, from the extreme south-eastern an- gle of Maryland, to the extreme north-eastern angle of North Carolina, a distance of 112 miles; North Carolina bounds it on the south, from the At- lantic west to the Iron Mountains, 340 miles; from this point the boundary runs along the Iron Mountains in a north-easterly direction, to the north- east angle of Tennessee, four miles; Tennessee then forms a border to the Cumberland mountains 110 miles; then Kentucky, along the Cumberland mountains to the Tug Fork of Sandy river, 1 10 miles; thence the boundary runs down this stream to the Ohio 70 miles.- The boundary follows the Ohio from the mouth of Tug Fork of Sandy, to the point at which it emerges from Pennsylvania, 355 miles; from this it runs south in common with the Avestern border of Pennsylvania, 64 miles, thence east along its southern border to the north-western angle of Maryland, 58 miles; from this, south to the head of the north branch of the Potomac 36 miles; and down the Potomac to its mouth, 320 miles ; it then crosses the Chesapeake Bay, and runs east^ along the southern boundary of Maryland to the Atlantic, 60 miles — presenting an entire outline of 1,635 miles. Face of the Country^ — Natural and Political Sections. — Virginia exceeds all of her sister States in territorial extent, and is perhaps the most strongly marked in her physical features. Like Maryland and North Caro- lina, she has her sea and alluvial section, below the head of tide-water; her middle and hilly section; and her central or mountainous section; but in Virginia a fourth section must be added, which may be called the western or Ohio section, its waters emptying into that stream. These four sections are so distinctly marked in their features as to be re- cognized in the fundamental law of the State, and must ever have important political and moral effects. Adopting the limits indicated in the new con- stitution, these four sections contain as follows, A'iz. First — The section from the sea coast to the head of tide-water, thirty-six counties, and three towns, to wit : Accomac, Caroline, Chesterfield, Charles City, Essex, Eli- zabeth City, Fairfax, Greensville, Gloucester, HanoA'er, Henrico, Isle of Wight, James City, King and Q.uecn, King William, King George, Lan- caster, Mathews, Middlesex, Nansemond, New Kent, Northumberland, Northampton, Norfolk, Princess Anne, Prince George, Prince William, Richmond, Southampton, Spottsj-lvania, Stafford, Surry, Sussex,. Warwick, 18 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Westmoreland, York, and the city of Richmond, borough of Norfolk, and town of Petersburg; which are all together entitled to 36 Representatives in the House of Delegates. Second. — The territory stretching from the head of tide-water to the Blue Ridge, contains 30 counties, to wit : Albe- marle, Amelia, Amherst, Bedford, Buckingham, Brunswick, Campbell, Charlotte, Cumberland, Culpeper, Dinwiddle, Fauquier, Fluvanna, Frank- lin, Goochland, Henry, Halifax, Loudon, Louisa, Lunenburg, Madison, Mecklenburg, Nelson,' Nottoway, Orange, Patrick, Pittsylvania, Powhatan, Prince Edward, and Rappahannock, which together have 42 Representatives in the House of Delegates. Third — The Valley section contains 15 coun- ties, to wit : Augusta, Alleghany, Bath, Berkley, Bottetourt, Frederick, Hampshire, Hardy, Jefferson, Morgan, Page, Pendleton, Rockingham, Rockbridge, and Shenandoah; which together elect 25 members of the House of Delegates. Fourth — The Trans-Alleghany, or western section, contains 30 counties, to wit : Brooke, Cabell, Fayette, Floyd, Grayson, Greenbrier, Giles, Harrison, Jackson, Montgomery, Monongalia, Kanawha, Lee, Lewis, Logan, Mason, Monroe, Nicholas, Ohio, Pocahontas, Preston, Randolph, Russell, Scott, Smyth, Tazewell, Tyler, Washington, Wood, and Wj^he; which together elect 3 1 delegates to the House of Delegates. Section First. — There is little of Virginia actually level, this term being strictly applicable only to the counties of Accomac and Northampton, on the eastern side of the Chesapeake, and to Princess Anne, Norfolk, and Nansemond on the west; containing an aggregate area of only about 2200 square miles, or less than the thirty-first part of the State. The shores of the peninsula east of the Chesapeake, which constitute the two counties of Accomac and Northampton, are low and flat, about 60 miles long, and from 10 to 15 wide, and bounded tOAvards the sea by a string of low sandy islets. The waters of the Chesapeake enter the sea between cape Charles and cape Henry, forming a straight of fifteen miles in width. Norfolk, one of the principle ports of Virginia, has a good har- bour in the southern part of the bay, near the mouth of James River. The embouchure of the James forms a speacious haven, called Hampton Roads, in which all the navies in the world might ride; this haven was formerly open, but the strong fortifications, castle Calhoun, and fortress Monroe, on the opposite sides of the entrance would now probably render it im- practicable for an adverse fleet to enter. — [See Old Point Comfort — Eliza- beth city county.] Except in depth, extent, and position the Chesapeake does not difl^er essentially from Pamlico and Albemarle soimds on the south, or Delaware bay on the north. Virginia and Maryland occupy the centre of a physi- cal section, remarkable for its deep and wide rivers; and the tributaries of the Chesapeake seem in this respect to imitate their great reservoir. The Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, and Chester on the east; and the James, York, Rappahannock, Potomac, Patuxent, and Patapsco on the west, all widen into expansive bays before their final discharge. These minor bays gradually become less deep and wide, as they approach the head of tide water, but they retain the distinctive character of bays as far as the tide penetrates. West of the Chesapeake, the country gradually rises into hill and dale, though much marshy and flat land skirts the wide mouths of the rivers, and the minor bays which they form. The soil of the section under re- view is strictly alluvial, for though the Hice of the country, on approaching OF VIRGINIA. 19 the primitive ledge -which terminates the tides, is diversified by waving hills, yet its slruc/ure is of the character styled by geologists ancle)) t allu- vial. The greater part of the substrata are composed of sand and pebbles; large masses of rock in their original position are rare, except at great depths. Seclio/c Second. — The Blue Ridge traverses Virginia for 2G0 miles, in a direction from S. W. to N. E. and except where passed by the James and Roanoke rivers it is a continuous range. It constitutes a county limit throughout its progress in this state. Falling from this finely delineated chain, is .an inclined plain, containing 15,38G square miles, terminated by the head of the Atlantic tides. This beautiful section, if we merely regard the fall of water, has a declivity of about 300 to 500 feet; but the fall of water gives a very inadequate idea of the slope in the arable soil, which towards the Blue Ridge rises in many places, to at least 1000 feet, in the spaces between the rivers. The face of nature though exhibiting little of grandeur, is extremely rich and pleasing ni the endless variety of hill, valley and river scenery. In the higher part, besides the magnificent back ground of the Blue Ridge, the more distinct ranges of the Alleghany may be seen towering above it, from the detached ranges in its neigh- borhood; all of which tells that the solid structure of the section is Appa- lachian, and that the outer ridges of that system influence the course of the waters, as may be seen in the Roanoke, James, Rappahannock and Potomac rivers. This section is as healthy as any portion of the world, the water is ex- cellent and plentiful throughout; the lands fertile, producing in abundance all the staples of the state; easily recovered when exhausted, and always susceptible of high improvement by judicious management; the farms are smaller than in the tide water district; the people are industrious and intelligent, and from James river to the Potomac perhaps are the best farmers in the state. Mr. Jefferson pronounced that portion of this section which lies under the south west range of mountains, to be the garden spot of America; and General Washington, when written to by Sir John Sinclair to recommend to him some spot for a residence in America, after passing in review the whole union, pronovmced a residence some where on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, between the Potomac and the James, to combine most advantages, and be the most desirable. Section Third. — The great valley section is in some respects the most remarkable in Virginia ; it extends from the Iron mountains, at the N. E. angle of Tennessee, to the northern bend of the Potomac, at Hancocks- town; its mean length is near 300 miles; the mean distance between the Blue Ridge and Alleghany about 43. This is a continuation of the Kit- tatinny valley of Pennsylvania, and is a true table-land or mountain pla- teau. The rise to this plateau is abrupt, the difference of the mean eleva- tion on the east, and west sides of the Blue Ridge being from 200 to 300 feet. The elevation of L\Tichburg is onlv 500 feet, whilst that of Staunton, near the sources of the 'Shenandoah is 1,152 feet; Lexington, m Rock- bridge county, 902 feet; Salem, on the Roanoke, in Botetourt county, 1,200 feet; and the Warm Springs, in Bath county, 1,782 feet; and the mean elevation of the farms throughout the section in all probability ex- ceeds 1000 feet. A stratum of limestone of varying breadth, runs nearly parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, on its western side, which continues to ac- company it in its course through Maryland, Pennsylvania, and New Jer- 20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION sey. Tlie surface of the great valley of Virginia is much broken and di- versified, but every where contains zones of highly productive soil; it abounds, with few exceptions, with the purest and best water, and is so rich in scenery, as to aflx)rd an endless variety of beautiful landscape. With re- gard to declivity, the A-^alley presents some curious phenomena. The northern and nearly one half of the whole surface declines to the N. E., towards the Potomac, and is drained by the Shenandoah, Cacapon, and south branch of Potomac. South of the sources of the Potomac and Shenandoah, is a middle valley j Avhich inclines to the east, and is drained by the James and Roanoke: the extreme southern part of the valley inclines to the north west ; and is drained by New river, and the great Kenawha. We thus perceive that this table land is partly inclined towards the Atlantic, and partly towards the Ohio; and that the inflected line which separates the sources of the James and Roanoke, which flow into the former, from those of the great Kenawha, flowing into the latter, — crosses the valley obliquely from the Blue Ridge to the Alleghany Section Fourth. — The extreme length of the Ohio section of Virginia, from the northern boundary of Tenessee, to the northern angle of Brooke covmty, is nearly 300 miles. The greatest breadth is nearly along the gen- eral course of the great Kenawha, about 135 miles; but both extremes are narrow; the mean width is about 94 miles. The area 28,337 square miles. The surface is for the most part mountainous, and nearly every where broken. The chains of the Appalachian system stretch over it, in a course nearly parallel to that part of the Ohio which bounds Virginia. The soil is even more variable in quality than the surface is in elevation, every grade of sterility and fertility may be found. As the elevation of the water, at the junction of the Ohio and great Kenawha is 533 feet, and that point is only about 40 miles from the mouth of the great Sandy, the lowest point in western Virginia, we may regard all the surface of the Ohio sec- tion as rising above 500 feet. The elevation of Wheeling above the Ocean is 634 feet; and the Ohio, the base of this great inclined plane, and the re- cipient of the Avaters of western Virginia, rises upwards of 560 feet, nearly to a level with lake Erie. The dividing ridge of the waters of the Ohio and Atlantic, is the apex of the plain before us, and has its highest eleva- tion in the mountains, from which the sources of the James and Roanoke rise on one side, and those of the groat KenaAvha on the other. Under the heads of Giles, Pochahontas, and Monroe counties, which occupy the highest part of the plain we are surveying, it may be seen, that the mean elevation of the arable soil exceeds 1,600 feet. A^similar, if not a higher, mean height might be assigned to the sources of the great Kanawha, from those of the Greenbrier to those of New river. From these elevated vallies the sources of the Ohio flow, like radii from a common centre. The dif- ferent branches of the Monongahela rise in Lewis and Randolph counties, and flowing north, through Harrison,, Monongalia, and Preston counties, enter Pennsylvania ; and uniting their waters, continue north, to meet those of the Alleghany, and form the Ohio, at Pittsburg. The Ohio from Pittsburg sweeps a curve first north westward, then westward for nearly 100 miles, in a course nearly parallel with the Monongahela, the two streams flowing m opposite directions. From the large curve of the Ohio below Pittsburg, to the influx of the little Kenawha, there is only a narrow inclined plane of about 30 miles width, between tlic Ohio, and the sources of creeks which OF VIRGINIA. 21 flow castwardly into the Mononoahola. Down tliis plain, flow, ITarinans, Cross, Biidhlo, Wheeling, Fish, Fishinrr, Middle Island, and some other creeks of less note. Near the little Kenawha the plain widens, and the de- clivity inclines from W. to N. W: this declination is also maintained in the rallies of the great Kenawha, and great Sandy rivers. The tributary waters of the extreme southern part of the Ohio section of Virginia, though drained into the same recipient, are borne from the eleva- ted plateau, between the sources of the great Kenawha and Tennessee; and before their discharge make the immense semicircular curve of the latter. The difference of level between high-water mark on the Ohio river, and the elevation we have noticed, is about a mean of 850 feet: but this eleva- tion is only the first in a series of planes, which rise one above another, until a mean height of between 1 800 and 2000 feet, is attained in central Virginia. If we assume latitude 38° 10' as the central latitude, it will at longitude 3° west of Washington city, correspond nearly with the greatest elevation, and estimating 400 feet as an equivalent to a degree of latitude, the counties along the mountainous section of Virginia will have a climate, similar to that in north latitude 43*^ on the Atlantic coast. If from the foregoing elements, we embrace the whole of Virginia, we have before us, a large section of the United States ; extending over more than 4° of latitude, and 8f ° of longitude, differing in relative level upwards of 2000 feet, without estimating mountain peaks, or ridges. If we suppose the actually settled parts of the United States, to be 630,000 square miles, Virginia will embrace one ninth part. It is as we have seen traversed from S. W. to N. E. by the Appalachian system of mountains in lateral chains; of these the Blue Ridge is the most distinctly defined, but is only one of six or seven chains that may be traced and identified across the state. One of these chains, though omitted in some maps and broken into frag- ments in others, is in nature little less obvious than the Blue Ridge; and is distinct throughout its course in Virginia. This neglected Appalachian chain stretches at a distance, varying from 15 to 30 miles, southeastwardly from the Blue Ridge. It is known in New Jersey as Schooley's mountain, and though entirely apparent through Pennsylvania, it has received no dis- tinct appellation in that state. In Maryland it is called the Parr Spring Ridge, and is rendered very conspicuous where it is traversed by the Poto- mac, by the fine conical peak called the Sugar Loaf In Virginia it traverses Loudon, Fauquier, Orange, Albemarle, Nelson, Amherst, Bed- ford, Franklin, and Henry counties. West of the Blue Ridge, the moun- tain chains are also very confusedly delineated on our maps, though they are far from being so in nature; even on Tanner's large map of the United States, the continuous chains cease with the Alleghany, whilst in fact western Virginia is traversed by three distinct chains, west of this moun- tain; — indeed the whole state, from the head of tide-water to the Ohio, is formed of a series of mountain chains, and intervening vallies. This struc- ture is obvious to all who examine the map, with a knowledge of the influ- ence of the direction of the hills upon the inflection of the streams. Among the mountain chains however, the Blue Ridge must ever be the most impor- tant, physically and politically. This chain stands distinct and de- tached from the rest, in a remarkable manner. Its highest points are the Peaks of Otter, in Botetourt county, which may be seen at a great distance ; one of them is remakable for its symmetry, being conical, and terminating in a limestone cube; the upper surface of which is scarcely sufficiently extensive 22 GENERAL DESCRIPTION to contain a dozen persons. It has been supposed that these beautiful peaks, are the highest points in the Appalachian system, S. W. of the Delaware, if computed from their base; but tiie White fop peaks of the Iron mountains, near the North Carolina line are now thought to be still more elevated. The diflerent portions of the state are strikingly distinguished from each other in their appearance. The tide-water or eastern section, is in general low, level, sandy, and unproductive, — in some parts exhibiting almost as de- solate appearance as the pnie barrens of New Jersey. Above the falls of the rivers, the country presents a bolder and more picturesque outline, and the soil if not generally productive, is in most cases capable of improvement; the alluvial lands on river and creek bottoms of this section are very fine; those on James river will compare with any in the world for fertility. The valley section contains a considerable portion of mountainous and sterile land; but no part of the commonwelth presents larger tracts of fertile and well cultivated soil, or better adapted to the cuUivation of every species of grain. West of the Alleghany, a large portion of the country must for ever remain in its primitive forest; it is generally mountainous and broken, but interspersed Avith fertile vallies, well calculated to grazing, and raising stock, and occasionally presenting rich bodies of limestone. From the vast extent of this state and the variety of its surface, we should of course expect a great diversity of climate. In the Atlantic country, east of the mountains, the heat of summer is long and oppressive, the spring short and variable, and the winter extremely mild, — snow seldom lying more than a day after it has fallen. Droughts in summer and autumn are common, and the people are subject to autumnal fevers. On the mountains, the air is cool, and salubrious, and the inhabitants are tall and muscular, with robust forms, and healthy countenances; fires are used during five months in the year; the heat of summer during the day is considerable, but the nights are always cool. On the western side of the mountain the cli- mate is cooler by several degrees, than on the same parallel of latitude on the coast : the valley of the Ohio, is exceedingly hot in summer, while in winter, the river is sometimes frozen for two months at a time, so hard as to be passed on the ice; the autumn is dry, temperate, and healthy, and the weather most delightful. From the facts which have been stated with regard to the variety of soil, and climate in Virginia: a corresponding variety in the staple productions will at once be suggested. Every vegetable, from cotton to wheat, and the fig to the apple, can be produced in abundance. When discovered and colonized by Europeans, the region now comprised in Virginia, was one continued dense, and vary partially broken forest. A few savage tribes were found along the tide-waters, but the interior Avas scarcely inhabited. It may be remarked that though the soil increases in fer- tility as we advance from the seaboard, yet density of population is in a near ratio to proximity to the place of original settlement, on James river If Ave make every just alloAvance for the space actually occupied by moun- tains, and other unproductive tracts, still there Avould remain at least 50,000 square miles, capable of sustaining a mean distributive population, equal in number to that Avhicli occupies any of the best inhabited of its existing coun- ties, (for example, Henrico, including; Richmond,) such a ratio, Avould give Virginia more than five millions of inhabitants, — a number far beloAV the population she could support. OF VIRGINIA. 23 The primipal Tnwns are, Richinond, the seat of government, situated at the falls of James river, on a site or elevation perhaps not to be surpassed in beauty in the United States, having an extensive view of the river, and an open, well cultivated, and fertile country for many miles in extent; it con- tains 10,()()() inhabitants: Norfolk, onEli/abeth river, which flowsinto Hamp- ton Koads, had in 1830, a population of 0,81(3: Petersburg and Fredericks- burg, at the falls of the Appomatox and Rappahannock, the first containing 8,31JU inhabitants, and the last 3,308: Lynchburg, on James river, 120 miles above the falls, contains 4,630 inhabitants: Wheeling, on the Ohio, though only the fourth town in size and population, containing 5,21 1 inhabitants, is perhaps the most flourishing town in the state. Besides these — Winches- ter, Shepperdstown, Martinsburg, Staunton, Lexington and Fincastle, in the valley; Charleston, Abingdon and Brooke in the trans-Alleghany section de- serve to be noticed — Williamsburg in the eastern section, and the ancient seat of government, is on the decline, but Charlottesville, near which the state University is located, has rapidly improved. The pri/icipal Rirers flowing into the Chesapeak bay, are, the Potomac, Rappahannock, York and James; all of which are large and navigable. The Shenandoah traces its quiet course down the valley, at the base of the Blue Ridge, and unites with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. The Roan- oke rises in the mountains, and passing into North Carolina, empties its waters into Albemarle sound. The Monongahela, and great Kena- wha are both tributaries of the Ohio. Besides these, numerous other streams intersect the country in every direction ; and render it inferior to [ew in facilities for transportation by water. The Chesapeake bay, one of the finest on the continent, extends 190 miles from its mouth, into the states of Virginia and Maryland ; it is from 7 to 20 miles broad, and generally 9 fathoms deep. Geology and Mineralogy. — If we trace a line from the mouth of Potomac creek, through the Bowling Green and fork of the Pamunky, to Richmond, — thence through Petersburg and Hicksford, to the Roanoke near Weldon, — we shall embrace between it and the ocean, only tertiary, and alluvial formations. The soil contains oxides of iron, shells and marie, bones of sharks, whales, and other fish, carbonated wood, and other vegeta- ble remains. From this line to the Blue Ridge, the formation may be re- garded as essentially primitive; as most of the rocks are of that denomina- tion. In this space however, two belts of transition and secondary forma- tion have been found resting on the primitive rocks. One of these is the sand-stone and coal formation of the counties of Goochland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield; which is supposed to continue through the state, in a direction parallel to its mountains; the other, a narrow stratum of limestone, which has been found at the base of the South West mountains, at various points between the Potomac and James, and Avhich yields in several of its quaries beautiful marble. In this primitive region, various valuable ores and pure metals have been discovered, among them iron ore in masses, and layers, — black lead, — copper, and gold. It is now well ascertained that a formation in which the latter metal is frequently found, commences near the Rappa- hannock in the county of Spottsylvania, and inclining with the mountains from N E. to S. E. runs through Spottsylvania, Louisa, Fluvanna, and Goochland, to James river; and crossing this stream near the Point of fork, passes through Buckingham into North Carolina, and thence on to the Cherokee lands in Ticorgia. Many portions of this vein are extremely rich, 24 GENERAL DESCRIPTION and the purity is so extraordinary, the ore so near the surface, and the ma- chinery necessary for its collection so cheap, that many individuals have en- gaged in the search. [For a more particular discription, see the several counties mentioned.] The dip of the rocks in this region is usually about 45°. West of the Blue Ridge, the country may be considered as divided by a line, sometimes corresponding with the Alleghany mountains, but in gen- eral running east of them ; and south of the head waters of the Roanoke, stretching along the summits of the Bushy, Clinch, and Garden moun- tains. East of this line, the primifii-e rocks appear only at the tops of high ridges and mountains; the intervals between, and the sides of the mountains being in general transition, but sometimes secondary form.ations. Among the rocks of this region, are blue and gray limestone, slate, sandstone, gyp- sum, buhrstone, and conglomerate or pudding stone, — iron ore of the best quality is extensively distributed in this portion of the state, and valuable lead mines are worked in Wythe county, near Austinsville. The dip of the rocks is in this district less than in the primitive, but sometimes rises to 4-5°. West of this line described lies the great seco??//^. reformation of the state. The line of strata is more or less undulating, but in general nearly horizon- tal. This portion of the state abounds in mineral wealth. Bituminous coal, and iron ore are found almost every where; — ^beds of limestone are ex- tensively distributed, and the caverns Avhich abound in them furnish large quantities of nitre. The salt wells of the great Kenawha and Holston, are even superior to those of Onandagua, in New York ; and new springs arc every day developing themselves and being brought into operation, on the Jittle Kenawha, and in other places. When greater facilities of transpor- tation shall be given to this district of country, it may be confidently predic- ted that no portion of the United States Avill present greater rewards to in- dustry and enterprize. Mineral Waters. — The Hydro-sulphurous springs of Virginia have been long celebrated. Perhaps they arc surpassed in no portion of the ■earth for efficacy, in most of the cases which result from diseased action of the liver, or the stomach. They are known by the appellations of the Blue sulphur. White sulphur, Salt and Red sulphur springs, to which have been recently added, the Gray sulphur; and are situated, the two former in Green- brier, at the foot of the western slope of the Alleghany, — and the three last in the county of Monroe. The Blue sulphur holds at least three active me- dicinal qualities in its composition; its tonic quality admirably sustains and husbands the debilitated system, while the alimentary canal and the glandu- lar organs are efficiently operated upon, by its cathartic and deobstruent powers. The While sulphur acts, when taken in doses of two or three glasses at a time, as an alterative, exercising on the system much of the salutary influence, Avithout the evil effects of mercury, — used in larger quanthics it becomes actively diaretic and purgative. The Salt sulphur is more remarkable than the White, for the latter property; but not equal to it in the former. The Red sulphur, in addition to the qualities which it has in common with the last mentioned springs, is remarkable for its action on the pulse, which it reduces considerably in a short time: this property ren- ders it highly valuable in pulmonary affections. The Sweet springs are situated on Potts' creek (a branch of James river) about 22 miles east of the Salt sulphur springs. They are of the class of waters called acidulous, and are valuable as a tonic in cases of debility, and in all the varieties of dyspepsia which are unaccompanied by inflammation. Their temperature is OF VIRGINIA. 25 about 7S°. In the same range of mountains in which the Sweet springs are situated, and from 35 to 40 miles to the northeast are the thermal waters, known as the Warm and the Hot springs: The baths of the former are of the temperature of 96°, and are famed for relieving rhiunatism, and va- rious other complaints. The temperature of the latter, present every va- riety, from 51 to 107°, and are celebrated for their efficacy in cutaneous, rhumatic, dyspeptic, and liver complaints. Dr. Bell, in describing these springs observes, — all that has been performed by the Bristol, Buxton, and Bath waters in England, maybe safely claimed as of easy accomplishment by the Virginia Avaters just enumerated If to the Hot, Warm and Sweet springs,— We add the white, Salt, lied, and Blue Sulphur,— we may safe- ly challenge any district of country of the same extent in the world to pro- duce the same number and variety of valuable Avaters, — whether we have regard to their mineral impregnation or temperature, or the time in which they relieve entirely and permanently from a host of distressing maladies. Besides the above waters, there are various others of more or less value in Virginia. The springs at Bath, in Berkely county, have similar properties with the Sweet springs, and a temperature somewhat higher. In Botetourt, Montgomery, and Augusta there are also Hydro-sulphurous waters, similar in character to those in Greenbrier and Monroe, but of less efficacy. [See in the several counties named, a more particular description of these springs.] It is astonishing that these waters should, as long as their value has been known, never have been accurately analyzed; until the summer of 1834, Professor Rogers of William and Mary college analyzed the Warm spring water, the result of which may be seen under the head of Bath county. Scenery and Natural Curiosities. — The scenery of Virginia is in general highly picturesque. Without possessing the combination of high- land and water prospect, which gives such a charm to the shores of the Hudson, or the soft lake scenery of the interior of New York; she surpas- ses even that .state in the beavity of her vallies, and the grandeur of her mountains. The James and Kanawha vallies, offer at many points, in the bold outlines of their hills, and their broad and fertile low^-lands, images which remind the traveller of the rich scenery of the Loire and the Garonne, The mountains of the state are strikingly distinguished, not only by an ever-varying succession of hill and dale, but by the beauty of their covering; their vigorous growth of oak, chesnut and lynn, contrasting advantagiously with the mountain districts of the northern and eastern states. The Curiosities of Virginia, present to the traveller, objects of yet deeper interest than her scenery. Among them may be enumerated: — the pas- sage of the Potomac, through the Blue Ridge, so happily described by Mr. Jefferson, — that of James river through the same mountain; — the cliffs of New river, which present for a distance of 20 miles, a succession of sublime scenery — rivalled in our country only by that of Niagara, between the falls and Q,ueenstown: — the celebrated Natural Bridge of Rockbridge, and the na- tural Tunnell of Scott county, "the most sublime of nature's works," — the va- rious medicinal springs already noticed: — and the burning springs of Kan- awha. The blowing cave at the Panther's Gap in Rockbridge, admits per- petually a strong current of air. Other extensive and beautiful caverns ex- ist in the limestone districts of the state; of the latter, two surpass the rest in beauty and interest, — the one called Weyer'scave, from its discoverer, — the other Allen's cave,— the former is situated in Augusta, near the little vil- 4 26 GENERAL DESCRIPTION iage of Port Republic,— the latter is situated in Shenandoah county, a short distance from Front Royall, on the right bank of the Shenandoah, about a quarter of a mile from the river, and is said to surpass Weyer's m the gran- deur and beauty of its chambers. The description given by Goldsmith of the grotto of Antiparos seems almost literally to apply to these mtere5.ting works of nature; Weyer's cave penetrates to a distance of 2700 feet; and Aliens 1200;presentiiig a series of lofty passages, and spacious apartments, encrusted with chrystals, and glittering with beautiful stalactites; ex- hibiting some of nature's wildest and most beautiful fantasies. We feel m traversing these magnificient apartments, as if we were visiting some of those enchanted palaces in which of old the Knights of chivalry were spell- bound, or gazing on the bright visions, and revelling in the beautiful scenes conjured up by the magic of eastern fancy. A cave on Jackson's river, near Covington, is said to be much more extensive and intricate than those mentioned, but not so beautiful. In Montgomery county on the north bank of New river, H miles from Newborn, is situated what is called the Glass Windoivs ; a great curiosity, which presents the spectator with a scene almost as magnificient as the natural bridge. The Falling Water, in Berkely county, and Falling Spring, in Bath, are two beautiful cataracts, — _the first is situated on the bank of the Potomac, 6 miles north east from Martinsburg, andfallsovera large alluvial rock, which rises 200 feet above the surface of the river- — the latter rises in the Warm Spring mountains, about 20 miles south west of the Warm springs, and about three quarters of a mile from its source, falls over a rock more than 200 feet above the valley below. The ebbing and flowing springs of Bath and W^ashington counties, may be men- tioned as great natural curiosities, — the former situated in the valley of the Cow Pasture river, 16 miles northeast of the W^arm springs; it ebbs and flows to a remarkable extent — affording when the tide is full, sufficient wa- ter for a gristmill, — when at ebb, only supplying a tanyard and a distillery; the water is of the purest and best quality, and equal in the hottest seasons to the temperature of ice-water. The Ice-mountain and Ice-cave, in Hamsphire county are very remarkable. On the north west side of the mountain, the surface is covered with loose stones, which being removed to the depth of three feet, an abundance of ice may be found at all seasons of the year. The Ice Cave, is situated near the top of a hill, nearly 1000 feet high — af- fords an abundant supply of excellent ice throughout the year. The most remarkable cataract in the State, is the Falling Spring, in Alleghany coun- ty. The stream has sufficient power, a few yards from its source, to turn a mill wheel, and about a mile below, it has a perpendicular descent of 200 feet, over a precipice of calcareous rock ; before it reaches the bottom, it is al- most converted into vapour, and the temperature is considerably reduced; the stream unites with Jackson's river, about a mile below the cataract. The Salt Pond lake, in Giles' county, not having been described in any ac- count of the state, deserves to be noticed. It presents the curious spectacle of a beautiful sheet of water, about three miles in circumference, and a 100 fathoms deep, on the summit of a lofty mountain. Some of the aged people in the neighborhood, remember when its boUom was a spot of marshy ■ground, covered with pine and oak timber, and much frequented by deer and elk in pursuit, as was supposed, of salt. In proceiis of time, a small pond was formed in the centre, — encreasing slowly at first, untill a stream which flowed out high on the mountain, suddenly ceased, and then rapidly rising above the tops of the trees, and finally to the top of the mountain, OF VIRGINIA. 27 wliioh it overflows at an ang^le below the general level. The water is en- tirely fresh, and abouiuls with lizards, but has no fish, The idea which prevails of its alternate rise and falT is erroneous; it is 3700 feet above the Ocean. Lake Drumniond, in the Dismal Swamp, is about 7 miles in extent, and varies from 10 to 20 feet deep; it is about 24 feet above tide water; and in times of drouirht, the only feeder to the Dismal Smamp canal. Its waters are cool, and strony;ly impregnated with juniper; but pleasent to drink. Our limits will not permit us to notice the carved or calico rock of Kanawha, and various other cnriositie-s of the state, which merit de.scription: but some account of them will be found in the several counties in which they are lo cated. * MOUNTAINS. Having taken a general survey of the whole of Virginia, wc will now give a more particular description of her mountain ranges, and the courses of her streams. Our mountains are not scattered confusedly in groups, or in solitude over the surface of the country; but are disposed in massive rid- ges, commencing about 180 miles from the coa.st, and running parallel with it; in a S. W. direction. The first continuous chain derives its name from the deep blue colour by which it is distinguished. The North Mountains are from 20 to 30 miles farther west; and these are succeeded by the great Appalachian or Alleghany range, which divides the eastern and Avestern waters. The Appalachian system presents its widest base in Virginia, and if we include its various lateral ridges, occupies a superficies of nearly one hundred miles in breadth, nearly all of which is covered with mountains and vallies. In the same direction generally are the veins of limestone, coal, and other minerals; and the falls of the rivers. James and Potomac rivers penetrate through all the ranges east of the Alleghany; — that is bro- ken by no water course, and is in fact the spine of the country between the Atlantic on one side, and the Mississippi, and St. Lawrence on the other. The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge has been said to be perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a ve- ry high point of land, — on your right comes the Shenandoah, having * Note.— The following intcreslinsr letter, on the mineral \yealth of Virginia, was ad- dre.ssed to the Hon. John Flovd, whilst Govenor ofVirginia. " I have recently returned from a geological excursion in Virginia. I entered t^e state near the head waters of the Potomac, "passed thence to Winchester, followed the course of that fine Valley to the Natural Bridge; retracting my steps, I turned west- M-ardly at Staunton, crossed the mountain at Jennings' Gap, and visited the justly celebrated medicinal springs in that region; returning, I went from Staunton through Charlottesville to Richmond, and down the James to its mouth. When tins tour is taken in connection with a former visit to Wheeling, it will be conceded that 1 have seen enough of the state to enable me to form a rough estimate of its geological and mineralogical importance: and I do assure von sir, that although my anticipations were far from being meagre, I was astonished at the vastncss and variety of interes- ting objects in that department of natural history, that were constantly developing themselves, inviting the mind of man to reflection, and his hand to industry, and dis- playing at every .step the wisdom and beniftcence of the Great Creater. I determined upon respectfully suggesting to your excellency, the expediency of a topographical, geological, mineralogical, and orgetological survey ot Virginia. S'lould the enliglitened representatives of the freemen of your state concur in IJiis opinion, it will redound to the honor of all concerned, by the encouragement il will give to the study of the natural sciences— by the enhancement in the value ot land in the interior, thereby enriching the state and its citizens, and giving a very proper 28 GENERAL DESCRIPTION ranged along the foot of the mountains for a 100 miles in search of a vent,— - on your left approaches the Potomac, also in quest of a passage; — at the moment of their junction they rush together through the mountain and pass to the sea. The first glance of the scene hurries us into the belief that the mountains were created before the rivers, that in this place the latter were dammed up by the former, and made a lake, which covered a considerable portion of the valley, — that continuing to rise, they at length burst through at the spot, and tore asunder the mountain from its summit to its base. The check to unnatural migrations to the extreme west — by bringmg to light and useful- ness innumerable valuable crude materials, — thereby not only enlarging the field of manul'actures and the useful arts, but furnishing carrying for the canals and roads already constructed, and assisting in new internal improvements in locations of equal importance. That I may not appear to be too enthusiastic, pardon me for pointing out some of the most obvious features in the geology of Virginia. Whether we con- sider the comfort and convenience of our species, or the industry and prosperity of a state, there is no mineral production that can outvie in importance with that of coal. In this country, where we have hitherto always had a superabundance of fuel, owing to the vast extent of our natural forests, the importance of a constant and abundant supply is not felt, and we are too apt to neglect properly to appreciate its value j but it is not so elsewhere — and a moment's reflection will shew that it ought not to be so here. Without fuel, of what use would be to us the metallic ores'? For instance iron, which is now moulted, drawn and worked into thousands and tens of thousands of useful instruments, from a knife, to the complicated machinery of a steam ingine, would forever remain an indissoluble and useless mass of matter without the aid of fuel. Even the steam engine itself, that colossus of modern machinery, without the assistance of fire would be inactive and impotent. Where is the state in this Union"? I might perhaps safely ask, where is the country in the world, that can surpass Virginia in the variety of position and abundance of supply of this valuable combustible'? She possesses, not only in common with her sister states, a liberal quantity of bituminous coal in her western and carbonaceous regions — where, according to geological calculations, bituminous coal might be rea- sonably expected to be found ; but in the eastern division of the state, within a few miles of the tidewater of a majestic stream which empties its ample waters into the Atlantic Ocean — in a geological position where bituminous coal never would have been sought after, because bituminous coal could not there have ever been expected to have been found, bituminous coal of a good quality, and apparently in great abun- dance has been found ;— nature seeming, as it were, in this instance, to enable her to favor an otherwise highly favored land— to have defined all her oAvn rules, and baf- fled the skill of the gravest geologist, by depositing bituminous coal upon the naked and barren bosom of the imcarbonaceous granite ! I have often wondered why this anomaly did not strike the capacious and highly gifted mind of Jeflerson ; and why he, or some other of the many reflecting men of Virginia, was not led by it to inquire •what else there might be in store for the good people of that state "? By neglecting to seek for them, we ungratfully reject the profi~ered kindness of our Greater; the laws of inanimate matter are, in this respect, in unision with those that govern animated na- ture : we are furnished with the material and means, but in order to stimulate us to useful and healthful industry, we must labor in their appropriation. God gives us the earth and the seed, but we must plough and sow, or we can never reap; so he has bountifully placed within our reach innumerable valuable rocks, minerals and com- bustibles; but to enjoy them, we must delve into the bowels of the earth— and having found them, we must by various laborious processes render them fit for our use To those who are accustomed to regard these things, it is difficult to determine which causes the most painful sensations, to observe how few coal mines, in comparison to what might be, are opened in the neighborhood of Richmond ; or the want of skill ex- hibited in the selection and working of those recently opened. Nor is the deposite of the bituminous coal upon the granite, the only geological anomaly of this quarter Proceeding from Charlottesville towards Richmond, almost immediately after you leave the talcose formation of the Blue Ridge, you are astonished at the fertility of the soil. You can scarcely persuade your.self that you are travelling over a countrv OF VIRGINIA. 29 piles of rock on each side, but especially on that of the Shenandoah, bear evident marks of rapture and avulsion from their beds, by some powerful force. The distant finishing which nature has given to the picture is of a very different character ; and a perfect contrast to the fore-ground. The former is as placid and delightful as the latter is wild and tremendous. You see through tiie rough and horrid cleft, a clear and beautiful view of level and fertile country, bounded only by the limits of human vision. The height of our mountains has not yet been estimated with any degree of exactness. There is no doubt but the Alleghany, as it is the dividing ridge for the waters, is more elevated above the ocean than the rest; but its relative height, estimated from the base on which it stands, will not com- your surpri.se is not a liUle increased upon di.scovering that this brick-red covering owes its existence to the disintegration of a rock whicli, in most other places, is ex- ceedingly slow to decompose — and which, when decompo.sed, forms a cold and in- hospitable soil. It is the hornblende sienite. Here it is surcharged with iron, which oxidating by exposure to the atmosphere and moisture, the rock freely disintegrates, and the oxide of iron being set at liberty, imparts its coloring to the ground, and fer- tilizes the soil in an extraordinary degree. Next in geological and statistical importance, I would place the mineral springs of Virginia; and those would form a legitimate subject ot investigation to those who should be appointed to conduct a geological survey. 1 am not aware of any portion of country of the same extent, possessing an equal number and variety of mineral springs as the counties of Bath, Greenbrier and Mon- roe. This is a subject upon which one might easily compose a book; but I must contine myself to a few lines. The waters are thermal and cold; the former of va- rious degrees of intensity. They hold in solution a variety of metals, earths, acids, and alkalies, combined in various proportions, and suited to relieve the sufferingsof in- valids from a number of diseases. Mineral springs of less interest than these have excited the attention of the learned in almost every age and country; and Virginia owes it to her high mental standing, independently of every other consideration, to assist the cause of science by investigating the causes of the high temperature, and making accurate analysis of these valuable waters. It is the duty of states, as it is of individuals, to furnish their quota to the general stock of information ; and this ispe] culiarly the duty of a republican state, whose happiness, nay, whose very political ex- istence dependsupon an improved state of the minds of its citizens. Mr. John Ma- son Good, in his "Book of Nature," after describing the barren state of society in the middle ages, says: "We have thus rapidly travelled over a wide and dreary desert,^ that like the sandy wastes of Africa, has seldom been found refreshed by spots of verdure; and what is the moral ] That ignorance is ever associated with wretched- ness and vice, and knowledge with happiness and virtue. Their connections are in- dissoluble ; they are woven in the very texture of things, and constitute the only sub- stantial difference between man and man," and I would add between state and .state. Has the heat of these waters any connexion with volcanic phenomenal or is the temperature entirely chemical, originating in the decomposition of .sulphuret of iron, as 1 suggested some years ago, in a paper published upon the subject 1 At the Hot Springs, the hot sulphur water and the cold pure water issue out of the calcareous rock at the base of the Warm Spring mountain, within a few feet of each other. One of these Virginia springs makes a copious deposite of calcareous tufa; and at another, you perceive newly formed chrystals of sulphate of iron. The White Sul- phur Spring takes its name from a rich white deposite, and the Red Sulphur /rom one of that color. If this is not an uncommon and a highly interesting section of country, calling aloud for investigation, and meriting legislative inteference, then have I taken an entirely erroneous view of the subject. The Warm Spring mountain is white sandstone. The rocks of the Valley of the Hot Springs are calcareous, argillaceous and siliceous. They are all nearly vertical. At first the two former, and afterwards the two latter alternate. They have all been deposited in a horizontal position, and between their narrow strata are thin layers ot clay, covering organic remains. * * * * * * The mountain ranges of Virginia are more numerous, and the Valleys consequent- ly narrower than they are in Pennsylvania; but some of them are very interesting. The great Valley, as h is sometimes called, or par excellence, the Valleij, situate be- 30 GENERAL DESCRIPTION pave withthatof some of its kindred ranges; — the country rising a consider- able step behind each range. It has been before stated that the Peaks of Otter, in the Bhie Ridge, Avere supposed until lately to be the highest points measured from their base, in North America ; but it has since been ascer- tained that the White Top Peaks of the Iron mountains are still more ele- vated. The highest peak of the latter is only about 4,2(30 feet aboA'e the Atlantic ocean, — which is not one fifth part of the height of the mountains of South America, or one third of the height Avhich would be necessary in our latitude, to preserve ice unmelted in the open air throughout the year. The range of mountains next beyond the Blue Ridge, Avhich we call the North Mountain, received the name of Endless mountain from the Indians, on account of its great extent. Alleghany mountain of the Appalachian system. It is an unanswera- ble objection to giving the name of Alleghany to the whole system, that it has been appropriated to a particular chain in Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia. From the basin of the Kanawha, to that of the western branch of the Susquehannah, through 4° of latitude, the Alleghany is a dividing ridge between the waters flowing into the Atlantic, from those of the Ohio, giving source, eastward to the branches of James river and the Potomac and on the other side, or weastward to those of the Kanawha, Monongahe- la, Youghioghany and Kiskiminitas. The ridges which form the particu- lar chain of the Alleghany, are not very distinctly defined, though the en- tire chain constitutes so remarkable a feature in the geography of the United States. The length of the Alleghany is, from Monroe county, in Virginia, in the valley of the Kanawha, to Centre county, in Pennsylvania, in the val- ley of Susquehannah, 300 miles. The height varies, but may be stated at tween the Blue Ridge and the North and Alleghany mountain, is by far the most ex- tensive. The rocks often obtrude, rendering the soil rather scanty — but nevertheless this is a fine district of countr}'. I could find no fossils in this rock. In regard to the metallic ores I would observe, that I discovered suflicicnt indications of their existing in Virginia in quantit)' suffi- cient to justify a more accurate examination. Irt)n abounds in almost every part of the western section of the state; traces of copper, lead, manganese and chrome, have also been discovered near the Blue Rridge; and the gold of Orange county is equal to any found in the Carolinas or Georgia. 1 have never seen any thing tliat exceeds the richness and variety of coloring of the serpentine of the Blue Ridge. This mineral is easily cut, and the fineness and close- ness of the grain render it susceptible of a high polish: at Zoblitz, in Saxony, several hundred persons are employed in its manufacture. Besides the minerals belonging to the talcose formation, and generally accompanying serpentine, are many of them valuable in the arts; for instance, steatite (soap stone,) talc, chromate of iron, clorite of slate, and native magnesia. A geological survey would most probably lead to the iiiscovery of most of these minerals. I could make large additions to this communication, but for the fear of traspassing upon your patience. I will therefore close my observations with noticing two instan- ces of a want of confidence in the mineral productions of your own state, which I am persuaded tliat a geological survey would tend to correct. I met many wagons loa- ded with sulphate of lime (gypsum) from Nova Scotia, being taken to the interior to be used as a manure; but I "did not see one wagon employed to bring carbonate of lime (common lime stone) from the inexhaustible quarries of the great Valley to any other district to be used for the same purpose. In the beautiful and flourishing city of Richmond, I ob.served the fronts of two stores fitting up in the new and fashionable style with granite (so called) (sienite) from Ma.ssachusetts, while there exists in the James river and on its banks, in the immediate vicinity of the town, rocks of a supe- rior quality, in quantities amply suflicient to build a dozen cities. I have the honor to be, sir, vour most obedient servcnt, PETER A. BROWNE. OF VIRGINIA. 3i 2500 frot, as a mean. Similar to all other chains of the Appalachian system, that of Alleirhany does not rise into peaks, but stretche.s in parallel ri(l<^es, wliich, to the view from either side, presents n^entle rounded, and swelling knolls, or eleiifantly defined lines, which bound tlie distant horizon. The component material of the Alleghany, is mostly graywake, though limestone and other rocks occasionally occur. This chain is rich in iron and bitumi- nous coal. Some ridges have naked sunnnits, but this feature is rare, the ridges generally being clothed with timber in all their height. A few mountain planes with tolerable soil for agriculture occur, but mostly the soil is rocky and barren, and often marshy. Pine and oak the most abundant timber. Appalachian System. — The name given to the immense chain extend- ing along the whole Atlantic course of the United States, from Alabama to Maine. In the southern states they are 200 miles from the sea, but to the north they approach near the coast. They run generally in parallel ridges, and the various divisions go by difTerent names. In Tennessee they are called the Cumberland Mountains, — in Virginia — Blue Ridge, — in Penn- sylvania the Alleghany and Laurel Mountains, — in New York, — the Cats- kill, — in Vermont the Green Mountains, and in New Hampshire, — the White Mountains. They are sometimes broken into groups and isolated chains. Their highest summits are in New Hampshire, and between 6 and 7000 feet above the Jevel of the sea. East of the Hudson they are of granite formation. In the west and south they consist of granite, gneis, mi- ca, clay-3tate, primitive limestone, &c. Blue Mountain. — This undistinguishing term has been applied to seve- ral chains of the Appalachian system in the United States, but more particu- larly to that one called by some tribes of Indians "Kaatatin Chunk," or Endless Mountain. If we turn our attention to the Appalachian chain we find them often only interrupted, where a cursory survey would lead us to place a termination. Whether the Kitlatinny Chain or "Blue Mountain" could be detected eastward from the Hudson we are unprepared to deter- mine, but westward of that river, this chain is found distinct in the Shawan- gunk, near Kingston, in Ulster county. New York. It thence ranges S. W., meets and turns Delaware river at the extreme northern angle of New Jersej', and continues its original direction to the Delaware Water Gap, where the mountain chain is traversed by the river, and the former curves more to the westward, enters Pennsylvania, over which it ranges about 150 miles to the northern angle of Franklin county, after having been pierced by the Lehigh, Schuylkill, and Susquehannah rivers. Between Franklin and Bedford counties the Kittatinny reassumes nearly its original direction in the state of New York, and though in some places confounded with the Alle- ghany, really continues a distinct chain over Maryland, Virginia, North Ca- rolina and Tennessee, into Alabama, S. W. of Susquehannah, the Kitta- tinny rises, and extending first nearly west, between the tributaries of Core- dogwinetand Shoreman's rivers, is thence broken into ridges bounding on the west, the valley of Conecocheague, gradually curves to the southward, and reaches Potomac, extending very little west of south. Rising again beyond the Potomac, between the Opequan and Black creeks, it runs near- ly' parallel with the Blue Ridge, is passed by the North Fork of Shenan- doah, and extends thence between the two main branches of that river. Though scarcely appearing distinctly on our best maps, the chain of Kit- tatinny is completely distinct, and continues over Rockingham, Augusta 32 GENERAL DESCRIPTION and Roclcbfidge counties, Virginia, into Botetourt, to where it is traversed by James river, below the mouth of Craig's creek. Rising again beyond James river, the chain stretches along the higher sources of James and Roanoke rivers, to the centre of Montgomery county, near Christiansburg. Here it leaves the Atlantic slope, and merges into the valley of the Ohio, by entering the subvalley of New river or Upper Kanawha. Thus far, in all its range from the Hudson, the Kittatinny chain is bro- ken into links by the higher sources of the Atlantic rivers, and similar to the Southeast Mountain and Blue Ridge, the base gradually rises, ascending the vast inclined plain obliquely, until it reaches the highest apex between the sources of Roanoke and those of Little river branch of New river. In this region the lowest gap through which measurements have been made for a projected canal, is 2049 feet above the level of the Atlantic ocean. The base of the chain now commences to depress and inflecting to a course considerably Avest of S. W., is traversed by Ncav river or Upper Kanawha. Beyond the latter stream, under the Local name of Iron Mountain, and dis- charging to the eastward the tributaries of New river, and from the oppo- site flank those of the south branch of Holston and Watauga, it reaches the extreme N. E. angle of the Tennessee. At the latter point, the chain as- sumes a direction very nearly S. W., and under the various local names of Iron Mountain, Bald Mountain, Smoky Mountain and Unika Mountain, is pierced in succession by Watuga, Doe, Nolechucky, French, Broad, Big, Pigeon, Tennessee, Proper and Hiwasse rivers, and merges according to Tanner's map of the United States, into Blue Ridge, in the northern part of Georgia, between the sources of Coosa and Hiwassee rivers. If the whole body of the Kittatinny and its mean elevation is compared with the body and elevation of the Blue Rridge, the former exceeds in both respects, from the Hudson to their termination in Georgia, though at the high lands on the Hudson and in the Peaks of Otter, the Blue Ridge rises to a superior elvevation from their respective bases. As a distinct and defined chain the Kittatinny is upwards of eight hun- dred miles in length. The height above the ocean varies from 800 to 2,500 feet. All the ridges in their natural state w^ere Avooded to their sum- mits, though the trees are generally stunted in growth at any considerable height. In the vallies along both flanks the timber is often very laro-e and lofty; particularly the pines, oaks, hemlocks and liriodendron. On some of ihe ridges good arable soil is found on the summits, but sterility is the gene- ral character of the soil. Amongst the peculiar features of this chain, one may be remarked, which gives it a very distinct character. In all its length, it is no Avhere strictly a dividing limit between river sources. Without assuming any connexion with the mountains eastward of the Hud- son, the Kittatinny is pierced by the Delaware, Lehigh, Schuylkill, Sus- quehannah, Potomac and James rivers, floAving into the Atlantic ocean, and by the Great Kanawha, and various branches of Tennessee, floAving in- to the valley of the Ohio, or basin of the Mississippi. Blue Ridge.. — Of the distinctive chains of the Appalachian system, and mdeed of all the sections of this system, the Blue Ridge stands inost apart and prominent, though of much narroAver base, and of less mean elevation than either the Kittatinny or Alleghany. On a colored map of Virginia the Blue Ridge has a very striking appearance, arising from the fact of being a county limit in all its range over that state. Without tracing a probable but hypothetical identity, betAveen the mountains of Massachusetts, OF VIRGINIA. 33 Connecticut anil Vermont, with the Blue Ridge, we first meet this chain distinct at West Point on the Hudson river. Thence it rises into broken but continuous ridges over New York and New Jersey, to the Delaware, in a S. W. direction. Traversed by the Delaware immediately below the in- flux of Lehigh, and inflecting similar to the Jvittatinny, to S. W. by W., it is pierced by the Schuylkill at Reading, by the Suscjuehannah below the mouth of Swatara, by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry, by James river, be- tween Bedford and Amherst couniies, Virginia, and by the Roanoke be- tween Bedford and Franklin couiuies in the same state. In its further progress S. \V. from Roanoke, the Blue Ridge becomes the limit of river source to its final extinction in Alabama. Tlu^ length of this chain from the Hudson to Roanoke, is 4.3U miles, and from Roanoke to where it ceases to be a distinct chain in Alabama, 3.10 miles, having an entire length of 800 miles S. W. from the Hudson. The Hudson does not, however, terminate the Blue Ridge to the N. E. Many river passages through mountains have been noticed and celebrated, and, among others, the passage of this chain by the Potomac at Harper's Ferry; but it may be doubted whether from all the attendent circumstances, any similar phenomenon on earth combines so many very remarkable features as the passage of the tide stream of the Hud- son through the two chains, the S. E. Mountain and Blue Ridge. Profoundly deep, for below the utmost draught of the largest vessels of war, the flux and reflux of the tides rush along a narrow and tortuous chan- nel, on both sides bounded by enormous craggy and almost perpendicular walls of rock, rising from one thousand to twelve or fifteen hundred feet above the water surface. Sailing along this astonishing gorge the mind in- voluntarily demands by what operation of nature has this complication of wonders been produced? Again, what in an eminent degree enhances the surprise and admiration, is the fact, that this great river pass is made direct- ly through a mountain nucleus In all the chains of the Appalachian sys- tem, masses rise at diflerent places, far beyond the ordinary height, and spreading much wider than the mean base of the chain in which they occur. The Peaks of Otter — the Peaks in the Catsbergs, in Windham, Green county. New York, several peaks of the Green mountains in Vermont, and above all, the White mountains of New Hampshire, are examples. The Highlands, pierced by the Hudson, and passed by the tide from the ocean, are however, every thing considered, by much the most remarkable of these mountain peaks or groups to be found, not only in the United States, but probably on this planet. Receding from the highlands, either to the S. W. or N. E. the chain depresses so much, that on our maps, the continuity in ei- ther direction, is generally not represented. There is, nevertheless, in the vicinity of the Hudson, no real interruption of either the South Mountains, or Blue Ridge, along their direction. The highest peaks being in the Blue Ridge on both sides of the river. Of these peaks, the highest is Butter Hill, which rises 1,535 feet above the ocean tides, and rising abruptly from the water, aflTords a very fine and extended landscape to the N. W. and W. After leaving the' Hudson, Blue Ridge continues to N. E. about 20 miles, and then, similar to other chains of the same system on both sides of that river, rapidly inflects to a course a very little north of east, a direction which it maintains above 250 miles in the states of New York, Massachusetts and Vermont. For the first 70 miles of its northerly course, the Blue Ridge discharges from its eastern flank numerous branches of Housatonic, and "from the opposing slope, Fishkill, Wappingers, Jansen's or Ancram 5 34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION and Kinderhook creeks, flowing westward into the Hudson. With the sources ofHousatonic and Hoosack rivers, the features of Bkie ]\idge change ; hitherto from the Hudson, a line of river sources, it now looses that charac- ter, and is broken into innumerable ridges by the higher sources of Hoosack and Batten Kill, flowing into the Hudson, and thence by those of Paulet, Otter, Onion, La Moille and Missisque rivers, falling into lake Champlain. All these latter streams rise in the S. E. mountain, and flowing down a Avestern slope pass the Blue Ridge. A hypothesis may be hazarded, that what is designated Green mountains in the sourthern part of Vermont, and the ridge or series of ridges, known by the same term in the northern part of the same state, are fragments of two separate chains, though generally represented as the continimtion of one and the same chain. Regarding the great Avestern chain, east of the Hud- son, in the state of New York, Massachusetts and Vermont, as the continua- tion of Blue Ridge, the whole length of the chain in the United States, ex- ceeds 1,0U0 miles. In relative elevation, the Blue Ridge is humble, though in one part, Bedford county, Virginia, the peaks of Otter rise to 4,200 feet above tide water. Generally, the ridges are from ?00 to 1,000 feet above their bases, and the base rising wath the mountain, when the ridges are seen from the elevated table land, from which flow Roanoke, Kanawha, Yadkin and Tennessee, they are, in fact, less imposing than when seen from the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehannah, Potomac or James rivers, though at the former region, the real oceanic elevation is more than double what it is near the more northern rivers. From its prominence, and southAvestwardly from the Hudson, its isola- tion. Blue Ridge has been, though very erroneously, regarded and delineated as the extreme southeastern chain of the system ; in reality, however, it is the third distinct chain advancing from the Atlantic ocean. Cumberland Mountain is a chain of the Appalachian system, and continues under this name through Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and part of Alabama; Avhilst it is known in Pennsylvania as the Laurel chain. This mountain though not so delineated on our maps, is continuous from Steuben county, in New York, to Jackson, Morgan and Blunt counties in Alabama, — along an inflected line of 800 miles. About the extreme eastern angle of Kentucky, and S. W. of the Great Sand)^ this chain becomes dis- tinctly known as the Cumberland mountain, and ranging S. W. seperates Virginia from Kentucky; as far as Cumberland Gap, on the northern boun- dary of Tennessee: continuing S. W., but with an inflection to the N. W. this chain stretches over Tennessee, — dividing in its course the waters of the Cumberland from those of Tennessee river: entering Alabama, and crossing Tennessee river at its great bend, it gradually disappears among the sources of the Black Warrior river. The Cumberland chain is in no part very elevated, — ranging from 800 to 1,000 feet above the level of the tide; but though humble as to relative height, it maintains otherwise all the distinctive characters of the other Appalachian chains; extending in long, regular and often lateral ridges, passable only at long intervals where gaps occur, or where it is traversed by rivers. The ridges are wooded to the summit. KiTTATiXNY Mountains, an extensive and important chain of the Ap- pa.lachian system. In Pennsylvania the Kittatinny is very definite, and with an intervening vaHey between their ranges, parallel to the Blue Ridge. It is tlie same chain, however, which first becomes definite in the state of OF VIUCilNIA. 35 New York, west of the Hudson, and there known as the Shawangunk, and extending' S. W. over the upper part of New Jersey, enters Pennsylvania at the Delaware Water gap. Thence inflecting to W. S. W., is traversed by the Lehigh at the Lehigh Water gap, by the Schuylkill above Ham- burg, and by the Susquehannah, five miles above Harrisburg. From the latter point the chain again inflects still more to the westward, between Cum- berland and Perry counties. At the western cxtvemhy of those two coun- ties, the chain abruptly bends to a nearly southern course, between Frank- lin and Bedford counties, enters Maryland, by the name of Cove moun- tain, being traversed by the Potomac river, between Williamsport and Hancockstown, and stretches into Virginia, as the Great North moimtains, over Virginia, from the Potomac to James river, between Rockbridge and Alleghany counties. This chain though broken, remains distinct; a simi- lar character prevails from James river to New river, between Wythe and Grayson counties. After being traversed by New river, the chain again assumes complete distinctness, leaves Virginia, and under the local name of Iron mountains. Bald mountains, Smoky mountains and Unika mountains, separates North Carolina and Tennessee, to the Unika turnpike on the western border of Macon county, of the former state. Thence continuing a little W. of S. W., crosses the N. W. angle of Georgia, enters Alabama, and separating the sources of the creeks of Middle Tennessee river, from those of Coosa, merges into the hills from which rise the numerous branches of Tuscaloosa, Thus, defectively as the Kittatinny, called expressly by the Indians Ka- taatin Chunk, or the Endless mountains, are delineated on our maps, it is iii nature a prominent and individual chain, from N. lat. 34° 31' to 41° 30', and 2° 45' E. to 10° W. long., Washington citv. Ranq-ing throuarh 7° of lat. and almost 13° of long., stretching along a space exceeding 900 statute miles, and varying in distance from the Blue Ridge, between 15 to 25 miles, gen- erally about 20, though in some places the two chains approach, as at Har- risburg, to within less than 10 miles from each other. In relative height the Kittatinny exceeds the Blue Ridge, but as regards the plain or table land on which they both stand, it rises gradually from tide water in Hudson river, to an elevation of 2,500 feet in Ashe county, of North Carolina. From James river to the Hudson, the chain ranges along the Atlantic slope, and is broken by streams flowing through it on their course towards the Atlan- tic ocean, but passing the higher valley of James river, the Kittatinny winds over the real dividing line of the waters, and is thence traversed by New river, Watauga, Nolechucky, French Broad and Tennessee rivers. KiTTATiNXY Valley, in the most extended sense of theterm, is in length commensurate with the mountain chain from which the name is derived; it therefore extends from Hudson river to the northern part of Alabama, vary- ing in width from eight to 25 miles, with generally a substratum of limestone towards Blue Ridge, and of clay slate on the side of the Kittatinny. Some of the most flourishing agricultural districts of the United States, are included in this physical section. The county of Orange, in New York, Sussex and Warren, in New Jersey, are nearly all comprised within its limits. In Pennsylvania it embraces the greater part of the lower section of Northamp- ton; nearly all Lehigh, Berks and Lebanon, the lower part of Dauphin, with the greater share of Cumberland and Franklin. In Maryland the eastern and left part of Washington. In Virginia, a large part of Berkley, Jefl^erson, Frederick, Shenandoah Rockingham, Augusta, Rockbridge, Bo- 36 GENERAL DESCRIPTION tetourt, Montgomery and Grayson, and in North Carolina, the counties of Ashe, Buncombe, Haywood and Macon. The latitude and relative elevation of this great zone has already been showTi in the preceding article, and the peculiar features of its parts may be seen under the respective heads of the counties it embraces, in whole or in part. Laurel Hill, or Laurel Mountain, is a local name given to several of the western chains of the Appalachian system, and leads of course to con- fusion. The chain in Pennsylvania extending from the Conemaugh to the Youghioghany river, — and which seperates Cambria county, from West- morland, and Summerset from Westmorland and Fayette, is there called the Laurel ^ Hill, whilst another chain ten miles further west, is called the Chesnut Ridge. Both these ridges continue out of Pennsylvania, and en- ter Virginia, S. W. of the Yougbioghany ; but the names are reversed, oxiA. the Chesnut Ridge of Pennsylvania is the Laurel Hill of Virginia. Such is the wretched delineation of the Appalachian system, on all of our maps, that no adequate idea of the respective chains, can, in many instances, be obtained from them. The two chains mentioned in this article, though not so represented, preserve their identity, in a manner similar to the Blue Ridge, from New York to Alabama. BAYS, HARBOURS, RIVERS, SWAMPS, &c. To complete our view of Natural Virginia, we have only to consider her waters: these for convenience we shall arrange as we have the mountains,, in alphabetical order. Albemarle Sound belongs to North Carolina, but as it is intimately connected with some of the waters of Virginia, we will notice it, — It is au estuary of the Roanoke and Chowan rivers, extending GO miles in length from east to west, along N. lat. 36^, with a mean breadth of eight miles, but protruding several deep minor bays. The Roanoke enters from the west,, and the Chowan from the N. W. at the extreme interior of Albemarle, which spreads below the entrance of those rivers in a shallow expanse of water, with a level, or rather a flat, country along each shore. Every small inlet has its o\\i\ comparative broad bay, by one of which, the Pasquotank, a navi- gable inland communication by the Dismal Swamp canal, has been formed between Albemarle sound and Chesapeake bay. Albemarle sound is sepa- rated from the Atlantic ocean, by long, low, and narrow reefs of sand; but having two channels of connexion southward with Pamlico sound, one on each side of the Roanoke Island, and on the northward an opening to the ocean by Currituck sound and inlet; both rivers are navigable to near their sources. The climate of this basin differs very much between its extremes, both from difference of latitude and of level. The latitude differs near 3^ degrees, and the level not less than 1000 feo^t, giving an entire difference of temperature of upwards of 5 degrees of latitude. The vegetable productions, both natural and exotic, have a corresponding variety with the extent of cli- mate. On this basin, near the mouth, the orange and sugar cane are culti- vated; and on its higher branches, the apple, and wheat, rye, oats, and other cerealia. The staple vegetable, however, both on the interior and islands contiguous to this basin, is cotton, though admitting a very Avide range of staple, such as tobacco, indigo, &c. Rice is extensively cultivated. Appomatox river rises in Buckingham and Prince Edward counties, OF VIRGINIA, 37 and flows thence by a very crooked channel, but by a general eastern course, with the counties of Prince Edward, Amelia, Dinwiddle, and Prince George, on the right, and Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield on the left, and falls into James river after a comparative course of 90 miles. The tide ascends the Appomattox, to the falls of Petersburg, about 20 miles above the mouth, and thus far contains depth of water for large merchant vessels. This stream drains a very fine section of Virginia, between lat. 37"' 33' and 37"^ 26' north. It may be navigated as far as Broadway's, by any vessel which has crossed Harrison's bar, in James river, and has eight or nine feet water a (c\v miles higher up to Fisher's bar ; and by late im- provements it contains seven feet water to Petersburg, where navigation ceases. Bannistkr river rises by numerous branches in Pittsylvania county, and flowing twenty-five miles in a N. E. direction, enters Halifax county, and inflects to the S. E. about 30 miles, and tails mto Dan river about ten miles above the junction of the latter with the Roanoke. Bannister drains most part of the peninsula between Dan and Roanoke rivers, below the eastern boundary of Henry and Franklin counties. Big Sandy, mentioned before as Great Sa?idy river, has its most remote sources in the north western slopes of Clinch mountain, but receives tribu- taries from a distance of 70 miles, along the upper parts of Russell, Taze- well, and Logan counties. The eastern or main branch rises in Logan and Tazewell, but the higher streams uniting, the main channel becomes, for a distance of 30 miles, a line of demarcation between those two counties, ta where it passes Cumberland mountain. From the latter point to its influx into the Ohio, the channel of Big Sandy separates Kentucky from Virginia, flowing between Logan and Cabell of the latter, and Floyd, Lawrence, and Greenup of the former state. The main or eastern branch of Big Sandy has interlocking sources with those of Guyandot, Blue-stone, a branch of Great Kanawha, Clinch branch of Tennessc, and its own West Fork, The West Fork of Sandy rises in Russell county, flows thence westward, traverses Cumberland mountain, and enters Pike county, Kentucky. Pas- sing over Pike into Floyd in the original direction, the channel curves ta northward, and unites with the eastern branch between Lawrence of Ken- tucky, and Cabell of Virginia. The valley of Big Sandy is in its greatest length from S. S. E. to N. N. W. about 100 miles, with a mean breadth of about 30; area 3000 scpiare miles; bounded to the westward by the vallies of Kentucky and Licking rivers, to the northeastward by that of Guj-andot, and eastward by that of New river, or the upper waters of Great Kanawha, The main stream enters the Ohio at Catlettsburgh in Greenup county, Ken- tucky, and opposite to the extreme southern angle of the state of Ohio, N. lat. 38° 24' and long. 5° 33' west of Washington. Blackwater river has its extreme source in Prince George county, and within 8 or 10 miles southward from the influx of Appomatox into James river. Flowing thence southeastward over Surry and Sussex, it inflects to the southward and separating Southampton on the right from Isle of Wight, and Nansemond on the left, fiills into the Nottoway river very nearly on the border between Virginia and North Carolina, after a comparative course of 70 miles. Blue-stoxe, a small river in Tazewell and Giles counties, which rises in the latter, and interlocking sources with those of Clinch and Big Sandy, 38 GENERAL DESCRIPTION flows thence N. E. down a mountain valley into New river, which it enters about five miles above the inHux of Greenbrier. Cheat river, a considerable branch of the Monongahela, rises on the bor- der of Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocks Avith Elk and Green- brier branches of the Great Kanawha, and after uniting with the south branch of the Potomac, flows thence by a general northern course 70 miles, over Randolph into Preston county, inflecting in the latter county to N. N. W. forty miles to its junction with the Monongahela, at the S. W. angle of Fay- ette county, Pennsylvania. The valley of Cheat lies between those of Mo- nongahela on the west, Potomac east, and Youghioghany east. The length of this valley is about 100 miles, mean breadth not more than 18, and its area about 1800 square miles. Cheat river is 200 yards wide at its mouth, and 100 yards at the Dunkard's settlement, — it is navigable GO miles higher for boats, except in dry seasons. The boundary between Virginia and Penn- sylvania crosses it, three or four miles above its mouth. 'Chickahominy river rises between the vallies of the Pamunkey and James rivers, about 20 miles N. W. from Richmond; it flows thence S. E. by E. — having the counties of Henrico and Charles City on the right, and Hanover, New Kent, and James Chy counties on the left; it falls into James river after a comparative course of 60 miles. Chesapeake bay, a deep gulf, opening from the Atlantic ocean, between capes Henry and Charles; lat. 37° and long. 1° east from Washington, intersecting in the mouth of the bay, near midway between the capes, which are about 15 miles asunder. The mouth of this fine sheet of water extends westward 20 miles to the mouth of James river. Curving rapidly, above the influx of James river, the Chesapeake extends almost directly north over one degree of latitude, with a mean breadth of 20 miles, having received from the Avestward James, York, Rappahannock, and Potomac rivers, and from the opposite side, Pocomoke and Nantikoke rivers. Widened by the imion of so many tributaries, the Chesapeake is upwards of 40 miles wide from the mouth of the Potomac to that of Pocomoke, and about 35 from the most southern capes of the Potomac to the influx of Nantikoke river. A- bove the entrance of the two latter streams, the main bay narrows to a mean Avidth of about 10 miles, and at some places under 5 miles, but Avith an ellip- tic curA''e to the Avestward 115 miles to its termination, at the mouth of Sus- quehannah river, having received from the AvestAA-ard above the Potomac, the Patuxent, Patapsco, GunpoAvder and Bash rivers, and from the eastAvard Nantikoke, Choptank, St. Michaels, Chester, Sassafras and Elk riA-ers. The entire length of Chesapeake bay is 185 miles; and it may be doubted Avhe- ther any other bay of the earth, is, in proportion to extent, so much diA-ersi- fied by confluent streams as is the Chesapeake. In strictness of geographical language, it is, hoAVCA^er, only a continuation of Susquehannah river, of Avhich primary stream all the other confluents of Chesapeake are branches. In the main bay the depth of AA'ater continues suflicient for the navigation of the largest ships of AA-ar to near the mouth of Susquehannah; and in Potomac that depth is preserved to Alexandria. In the other tributary riA^rs large A^essels are arrested before reaching the head of tide AA'ater. If taken in its utmost extent, including the Susquehannah valley, the Chesapeake basin forms a great physical limit; to the S. AV. Avith feAv exceptions, the rivers, bays and sounds, are shalloAV, and compara- tively unnavigable; but Avith the Chesapeake commences deep harbors, Avhich follow at no great distance from each other, to the utmost limits of OF VIRGINIA. 39 the Atlantic coast of the United States. The entire surface drained into tliis imniense reservoir amounts to near 70,000 square miles. We Icnow of no place in which we can better introduce an article upon the CiiKSAPKAKK Pkninsula, a natural section of the United States, the ])('cu- liar features of which are generally lost or confused among the political sub- divisions of our country. This physical s^'ction is bounded by the Atlantic ocean S. E., by Chesapeake bay W., by Delaware bay N. E. and united to the main continent by an isthmus, now traversed on the nortli by the Ches- apeake and Delaware canal. That work has in fact insulated the peninsula, and given it water boundaries on all sides. Thus restricted, this peninsula extends from Cape Charles N. lat. 37"^ 8' to the Chesapeake and Delaware canal at N. lat. 39° 32'. Greatest length very nearly in a direction north and south 182 miles. The general form is that of an elongated ellipse, which, in component material, features, and elevation, differs in nothing essential from the Atlantic islands scattered along the coast of the United States. Chesapeake bay is itself divided between Virginia and Maryland; the shores on both sides south of the Potomac and Pocomoke rivers belong to the former, and to the northward to the latter State. The southern part of the peninsula is entirely in Virginia, and is a long, narrow promontory, 70 miles, by 8 to 10 miles wide. Above Pocomoke bay the peninsula widens, and after an intermediate distance of 33 miles, is equally divided between the States of Maryland and Delaware. In the widest part, between Cape Hcnlopen, Sussex county, Delaware, and the western part of Talbot, Maryland, the width is 70 miles, but narrowing towards both extremes, the mean breath is about 27; area 4900 square miles. The surface is generally level or very gently undulating. The ocean and Chesapeake shores are strong- ly contrasted. Along the former, are narrow and low islands, with shallow sounds, and no stream issuing from the land of any consequence. The opposite shore of the Chesapeake is in an especial manner indented by innu- merable bays, and compared with the confined width of the peninsula, rivers of great magnitude of volume. The character of the Atlantic is extended along the Delaware bay; and entirely round the peninsula, much of the soil is liable to diurnal or occasional submersion from the tides. The general slope is south westward as demonstrated by the course of the rivers Pocomoke, Nantikoke, Choptank, Chester, Sassafras, and Elk. Po- litically it contains all Sussex, Kent, and more than one-half of New Castle county, of Delaware, all Worcester, Somerset, Dorchester, Talbot, Caroline, Glueen Ann, and Kent, and one-third of Cecil county, of Maryland, with all Accomack and Northampton counties, of Virginia. Chowax river, is in North Carolina, but formed by the union of throe streams of Virginia, the Meherin, Nottoway, and Blackwater rivers: The Meherin rises in Charlotte county, Virginia, 1° 30' west from Wash- ington City, lat. 37°, between the vallies of lloanoke and Appomattox, and floAting thence S. E. by E. by comparative courses 80 miles, passes into North Carolina between Northampton and (iatcs counties, and 20 miles farther unites with the Nottowa}', above Winton, between Gates and Hert- ford counties. The Nottoway derives its remote sources from Prince Edward county, Virginia, between those of Meherin and Appomatox. In a general eastern course of 70 miles, the Nottoway separates Limenburg, Brunswick and Greensville counties from Nottoway, Dinwiddie and Sussex, and flows into the central parts of the latter. Thence inclining S. E. 40 miles it receives 40 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Blackwater river almost on the boiindary line between Virginia and North Carolina. Below the junction of the Nottoway and Blackwater, the name of the former, and course of the latter, are preserved, and about 10 miles within North Carolina and in Gates county, meet the Meherin to form^ Chowan river. A tide water river, or more correctly a bay, the Chowan, gradually widens, but still retaining a moderate breadth, 25 miles to the influx of Be- mer's creek, there bends to near a southern course and more rapidly widens for 25 miles to its junction with Roanoke, at the head of Albemarle sound. Lat. 36°, passes up Albemarle sound, and intersects the eastern point of Bertie county. North Carolina, between the mouths of Chowan and Roan- oke, 0° 20' long, east of Washington City. Including all its tributaries, the Chowan drains an area of 3,500 square miles, which, as a physical section, comprises the northeastern part of the basin of Roanoke. As a commercial channel, the Chowan, Nottoway, and Blackwater extend almost directly from the mouth of Roanoke to that of James river. There is at all seasons sufhcient depth of water to admit sloops of wax to Murfreesboro' on Meherin, about 10 miles above the entrance of NottoAvay river. Clinch river of Virginia and Tennessee, the great northeastern consti- tuent of Tennessee river, rises in Tazewell county, Virginia, and floAvs thence by a general course of S. W. over Russell and Scott counties, 90 miles. Entering Tennessee, Clinch separates Claiborne county from Haw- kins, Granger and Anderson ; Campbell from Anderson, and thence travers- ing the latter, enters Roan, and unites with the Tennessee at Kingston, after an entire comparative course of 180 miles. In the south part of Campbell county Clinch receives from the N. E. Powell's river. The latter rising in Russell county, Virginia, issues thence in a direction almost parallel to the Clinch; traverses Lee county of Virginia, enters Tennessee, crossing Claiborne and Campbell counties, joins the Clinch at Grantsboro, after a comparative course of 90 miles. A short distance above its junction Avith Tennessee river, the Clinch receives from the N. W. Emery's river. It may be remarked that the course of the higher branches of Emery's river is directly the reverse of that of Clinch and Powell's river. Uniting the vallies of Emery's and Clinch river, the whole valley is about 220 miles long; but the width is contracted comparatively, and fully estimated at 20 miles; area 4400 square miles. In all their respective courses. Clinch and Holston pursue a parallel direc- tion, in few places 20 miles asunder, each receiving short creeks, from an intervening mountain chain. On the opposite or right side, Clinch in suc- cession interlocks sources Avith those of Great Sandy, Kentucky and Cum- berland rivers. The relative elevation of the vallies of Clinch and Holston differ but little from each other, and each stream above their junction, must have, from their remote fountains, a fall of 1000 or 1200 feet. Coal river, in western Virginia, rises in Logan county by tAvo branches, called relatively Great and Little Coal rivers. The former rises in the Aves- tern spurs of the Appalachian ridges, floAvs N. W. out of Logan into Ka- naAvha county, receives Little Coal riA'er from the S. W. and finally falls into the right side of Great KanaAvha and Guyandot riA-ers. [See Kan. co.] Craig's creek, or, more correctly, Craig's riA'er, is the extreme S. W. tributary of James river, rises in Giles and Montgomery counties, AHrginia, interlocking sources A\'ith a branch of Great KanaAvha, and Avith the extreme OF VIRGINIA. 41 higher sources of Roanoke; and flowing thence to the N. E. over Bote- tourt county, falls into James river after a comparative course of 40 miles. (."owpASTuuE river, Virginia, rising in the mountain valley between the Kiltatinny and Warm Spring mountain, interlocking sources with the south branch of Potomac, but flowing in an opposite direction S. S. W. falling into, or joining Jackson's river, to form James river, after a compaiative course of 50 miles. Dismal Swamp. This remarkable swamp extends from north to south nearly thirty miles ; and averages from east to west nearly ten ; it lies partly in Virginia, and partly in North Carolina. Five navigable rivers, and some creeks rise in it; of the rivers, two flow into Virginia, — south branch of Elizabeth river, and south branch of Nansemond, — and three into North Carolina, — the North river, the North West river, and the Pequimonds. The sources of all of these streams are hidden in the swamp, and no traces of them appear above ground. From this it appears, that there must be plentiful subterraneous fountains to supply these streams, — or the soil must be filled perpetually with the water drained from the higher lands which surround it. The latter hypothesis is most probable, because the soil of the Swamp is a complete quagmire, trembling under the feet, and filling imme- diately the impression of every step with water. It may be penetrated to a great distrance by thrusting down a stick, and whenever a fire is kindled upon it, after the layer of leaves and rubbish is burned through, the coals sink down, and are extinguished The eastern skirts of the Dismal Swamp are overgrown with reeds, ten or tAvelve feet high, interlaced every where with thorny bamboo briars, which render it almost impossible to pass. Among these are found, here and there, a cypress, and white cedar, which last is ccmmcnly mistaken for the juniper. Towards the south, there is a very large tract covered wi'h ree.ls, without any trees, which being constantly green and A\aving in the wind, is called the green sea. An ever-green shrub, called the gall-lush, grows plentifully throughout, but especially on ths borders: it bears a berry which dies a black color, like the gall cf an cak, — ar.d htrce its rame. Near the middle of the Swamp, the trees grow mixh closer, both the cypress and cedar; and being ah\ays gretn ar.d loaded with large tops, are much exposed to the wind, and easily bkA^m dcwn, in this bcggy place, Avhere the soil is too soft to afibrd suflicient hold to the rocts. Frcm these causes, the passage is nearly always obstructed by trees, which lay pi'edin heaps, and riding upon each other; and the snags left in them pointing in every direction, render it very difiicult to clamber over thtm. On the western border of the Dismal Swamp, is a pine swamp, above a mile in breadth, the greater part of which is covered to the depth of the knee with water: the bottom, however, is firm, and though the pines grow- ing upon it are very large and tall, yet they are not easily blown down by the wind; so that this swamp may be passed without any hinderance, save that occasioned by the depth of the water. With all of these disadvantages, the Dismal Swamp, though disagreeable to the other senses, is, in many places, pleasant to the eye, on account of the perpetual verdure which m.akes every season like the spring, and every month like May. (See a more par- ticular description of Dismal Swamp, Norfolk county.) Dan river, belongs partly to Virginia, and partly to North Carolina, it drains the greater part of Granville, Person, Ca«well, Rockingham and Stokes countie.'s, of the latter state, and of Patrick, Henry, Pittsylyania, and 6 42 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Halifax comities, of the former stat^. The extreme western sources of Dan river are in Patrick county, Virginia, and in the S. E. spurs of the Blue Ridge. The general course almost due east along the intermediate borders of North Carolina and Virginia, to where the four counties of Piusylvania, Halifax, Person and Caswell meet. Here entering and flowing in Virginia N. E. by E., falls into the Roanoke at Clarksville, having a mean breadth of about 33 miles. This river drains 3,960 square miles. Dividing creek, a small stream of Virginia, forming for a few miles the boundary between Lancaster and Northumberland counties, and then falling into the Chesapeake. Elizabeth river, rises by numerous small branches in Princess Ann and Norfolk counties, flows to the N. W. opening into a Avide estuary, termi' nating in the mouth of James river. The entire length of Elizabeth river is only about 2.5 miles, but it gains importance as forming the fine harbor of Norfolk, admitting to that port vessels of 18 feet draught, and again as constituting with the Dismal Swamp canal and Pasquotank river, a chain of inland navigation from Chesapeake bay to Albemarle sound. Elk river, in western Virginia, rises amid the Appalachian ridges in Randolph and Pocahontas counties, interlocking sources with those of Mo- nongahela. Little Kanawha, Wheat, Greenbrier and Gauley rivers. Leav- ing ^Randolph and Pocahontas, and traversing Nicholas and Kanawha coun- ties, it finally is lost in Great Kanawha at Charleston, after a comparative western course of 100 miles. Gauley river, rises in Randolph, Pocahontas, and Greenbrier counties, by numerous creeks which unite in Nicholas, and flow by a course a little south of west, falling into the right side of the Great Kanawha river, at the head of the Great Falls. The valley of Grauley river is about 60 miles long, and lies between those of Elk and Grreenbrier rivers. Greenbrier river rises in the northern part of Pocahontas county, over which it flows, and entering and traversmg Grreenbrier county, falls into Great Kanawha, after a comparative southwestern course of 90 miles. Greenbrier has its remote sources in the same ridges with those of Cheat river branch of Monongahela, and those of the South branch of the Poto- mac. The valley of Greenbrier lies between those of James and Gauley rivers. It is an elevated region. The water level is from actual admea- surement, 1,333 feet at the efflux of Greenbrier into Great KanaAvha. The mean height of the farms above the ocean level cannot fall much, if any, short of i,5Q0 feet. GuvANDOTTE rlvcr rises in Logan county, from the northwestern foot of the Great Flat Top mountain, and flowing thence N. N. W. draining a valley between those of Great Kanawha and Sandy rivers, enters Cabell county and falls into Ohio river below Barboursville, after a comparative course of about 100 miles. GuYANDOTTE, LiTTLE, falls iuto Ohio rivcr between the mouths of Guy- andotte and Great Kanawha rivers, and for some miles above its mouth con- .stitiites the boundary between Mason and Cabell counties. Hampton Roads, local name of the mouth of James river opposite the mouths of Nansemond and Elizabeth rivers. Towards the Chesapeake bay, Hampton Roads is defined on the north by Old Point Comfort, and on the so;ith by Point Willoughby; within James river the termination is in- defmite. This sheet of water is sufficiently deep for the largest ships of war. The United States commissioners, appointed to examine the lower OF VrRGINIA. 43 part of Chosapeiike bay in 1S18, reported, that although extensive, Hampton Roads admitted the erection of adequate defences against an enemy's fleet. HoLSTON river rises in the Alleghany mountains, in Virginia, and flows S. S. W. into Tennessee, it then takes a course more to the south to Knox- ville, and oo miles below that town, it unites with the Clinch, and the united streams take the name of the Tennessee. It is navigable for boats of 25 tons burthen, more than lUO miles. On its banks are several iron-works; and the adjacent country abounds with iron-ore, and contains several lead- mines. Valuable salt works exist near its sources. Jackson river, the principal constituent of James river, rises by two branches, the north and south forks, in the southern part of Pendleton county, Virginia. Flowing thence southwestward and nearly parallel, and between lateral chains of mountains, the two branches traverse Bath county, and en- tering Alleghany, incline towards each other and unite, but the united stream still pursues a southwestern course, receiving Dunlop's creek from the west and Pott's creek from the south, after a comparative course from the source in Pendleton of about 50 miles. With the junction of Pott's creek, the whole stream inflects very abruptly to N. E. and flowing in that direction 15 miles, through rugged mountain passes, unites with Cow Pasture river to form James river. The valley of Jackson's river, is an elevated region. At Covington, the county seat of Alleghany county, where Dunlop's creek falls into Jackson's river, the wator surface is 1,238 feet above the Atlantic level; it is Therefore probable, that the greatest part of the arable surface of the adjacent country exceeds a comparative height of 1,500 feet. - Lat. 38°, and long. 3° west, Washington, intersect in the western part of Bath county, about G miles north of the junction of the two main branches of Jackson's river. James river. The two streams wliich unite to form this fine river, may be seen under the he head of Jackson and Cow Pasture rivers. Below the junction of its two constituents, the united water is first known as James river, which forcing a passage through between Pott's and Mill mountains, enters Botetourt, and assumes a southern course 10 miles, to where it re- ceives Craig's creek from the south, and inflecting to S. S. E. flows in that direction lo^miles, thence abruptly turns to N. E. by E. 20 miles, to the wes- tern foot of Blue Ridge, and the reception of North river from Augusta and Rockbridge counties. Assuming a S. E. course of 28 miles, James river, now a fine navigable stream, traverses a gap of Bhie Ridge about 15 miles N. E. the Peaks of Otter, and in a distance of 30 miles, separating Amherst from Bedford and Campbell counties, and traversing another late- ral chain of mountains near Lynchburg, again turns to N. E. Continuing the latter course 40 miles and separating Amherst and Nelson from Camp- bell and Buckingham coynties, James river assumes a course a little south of east 70 miles" by comparative course, having on the left the counties of Albemarle, Fluvanna, Goochland and Henrico, and on the right the coun- ties of Buckingham, Cumberland, Powhatan, and Chesterfield, to the head of tide water and the lower falls at Richmond. Meeting the tide, James river, similar to most of the Athmtic rivers of the United States generally, widens and presenting rather the features of a bay than those of a river, turns to a little E. of S. E. 90 miles by comparative courses, finally merges into Chesapeake bay, between Pomt ^Vlll()ughby and Old Point Comfort. The entire length of James river, from its source in Pendleton, to its efilux into Chesapeake, is 36S miles, but following the 44 GENERAL DESCRIPTION actual meanders it is probable that this stream flows not much if any less than 500 miles. The valley of James river, including all its tributaries, lies between lat. 36^ 40' and 38^ 20', and in long, extends near 1° east to 3° 40' west from Washington. A line in a S. S. W. direction from Old Point Comfort to the Alleghany mountain wdll pass along very near the middle of this val- ley 225 miles. The broadest part is along the extreme sources, from the fountains of Jackson's river to those of Craig's creek 90 miles, but the mean width amounts to about 45 miles and the area to 10,125 square miles. In the natural state James river affords at, and a few miles above, its mouth, depth of water for ships of any required draught, but the depth gradually shallows, so that only vessels of 130 tons can reach Rockets, or the port of Richmond. Though much has been designed above tide water in meliorating the navigation, little has been actually accomplished. A canal connects the tide below, and the navigable water above the falls at Richmond. The following relative heights will show the gradual rise of the James river. Columbia at the mouth of Rivanna 178 feet; Scottsville, at the southeastern angle of Albemarle county, and below the southeast chain of the Appalachian system 255 feet ; Lynchburg, also be- low the southeast mountain 500 feetf Pattonsburg, at the great bend above Blue Ridge 8(J6 feet; Covington, ai the junction of Dunlop's creek and Jackson's river, 1,222 feet; highest spring tributary to Craig's creek, 2,498 feet. Those heights are only the elevation of the water, and at every point must fall short of that of the arable soil. Without any great risk of error, an allowance of vv-inter temperature equal to 6 degrees of Fahrenheit may be made between the extremes of this valley on the same latitude. Kanawha, Great, river. North Carolina and Virginia, has the most remote source in Ashe county of the former, between the Blue Ridge and main Appalachian chain, there known by the name of Iron mountain ; the two higher branches, after draining the northern part of Ashe, unite near the boundary between North Carolina and Virginia, and continuing their original course to the N. E. by N., enters Grayson county of the lat- ter state, breaks through the Iron mountain between Grayson and Wythe; winds over the latter and Montgomery; thence inflecting to the N. N. W. traverses Walker's and Peter's mountains. BeloAv the latter chain, the course of N. N. W. is continued to the mouth of Gauley river having re- ceived also from the northeast Greenbrier. Above Gauley river, the main volume of Kanawha is called New river ; but receiving the Gauley, and turning to N. W., this now large stream, known as the Great Kanawha, is still farther augmented from the north by Elk river, and from the south by Coal river, falls into Ohio river at Point Pleasant, after a comparative course of 280 miles, 100 above Walker's mountain, 100 from the pass through Walker's mountain to the mouth of Gauley river, and 80 from the mouth of Gauley to the Ohio. The higher branches of New river have interlocking sources with these of Catawba and Yadkin on the S. E., and with those of Watauga and Hol- Bton to the northwest. Below the Iron mountains the interlocking soucgs are with those of Clinch and Sandy to the west, those of Rcanoke to the east, and those of James river N. E., as far down as the gorge of Peter's mountain, westward of the latter pass. Greenbrier, coming in7rom the north has its sources in the same region with those of the Potomac on the northeast, and with those of the Monongahela to the northward. The valley of Kanawha OF VIRGINIA. 45 proper, below Gauley river, lies generally Ixtwecn the valley of Guyandotte on the S. W., and that of Little Kanawha N. E., though the sources of Elk river, also reach the vicinity of those of Monongahela. The entire valley of Great Kanawha, including that of New river, extends lat. 36^ 15' in Ashe county, North Carolina, to 38° 52' at the junction of Kanawha and Ohio, and in long. 2° 43' at the higher source of Greenbrier, to 5° 08' west of Washington city. The length of this valley from the Blue Ridge between Patrick and Montgomery counties, Virginia, in a N. W. direction is 180 miles, the utmost breadth from the sources of New river, to those of Greenbrier is 180, but the mean width is about 60, and the area may be stated at 10,800 square miles. The most remarkable feature in the valley of the Great Kanawha, as a physical section, is relative height. At the mouth of Sinking creek, between Walker's and Peter's mountains, 120 miles by comparative courses below the sources, the water level is 1,535 feet above the Atlantic tides; at the mouth of Greenbrier 1,333, and at the mouth into Ohio 525 feet. Compar- ing the fall from Sinking creek to the mouth of Greenbrier 252 feet in 30 miles direct, that above Sinking creek must be 900 feet at least, conse- quently, the higher branches of New river, in Ashe count}', must rise at a comparative height of upwards of 2,500 feet. Little K.vxawha, rises in Lewis county, and flowing N. W. by W., en- ters Wood, and falls into the Ohio, at Parkersburg, after a comparative course of 90 miles. The valley of this river is nearly commensurate with Wood and Lewis counties, and has that of Great Kanawha south, Middle Island creek to the north, and that of Monongahela, N. E. is 150 yards wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only; perhaps its northern branch called Junius' creek, which interlocks with the west fork of Monongahela, may one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into the Ohio. Little river, of Montgomery county, rises in the western vallies of the Blue Ridge, and flowing to the N. W., about 25 miles comparative course, falls into New river, 12 miles S.. W. by W. Christiansburg. Mattafoxy river has its extreme source on the eastern border of Orange county, near the Rapid Ann, about 25 miles westward Fredericksburg, but the most numerous of its creeks arc in Spottsylvania. These unite within, and traverse Caroline, and thence forming a boundary between King Wil- liam and King and Queen, unite with the Pamunky, to form York river, after a comparative southeastern course of ten miles. The valley of the Mattapony lies between those of the Rappahannock and Pamunky, and is traversed by N. lat. 38° and the meridian of Washington. Matihapuxg Inlet, on the coast of the Atlantic, between Hog and Prout Islands, Northampton county. It opens into a sheet or small gulf, called Broad Water, 28 miles N. N. E. cape Charles, lat. 37° 20'. Meherix river, of Virginia and North Carolina, deriving its most remote sources from Charlotte, but rising principally in Lunenburg and Mecklen- burg counties, and uniting on the western margin of Brunswick. Contin- uing its original course S. E. by E. over Brunswick and Greenville, and thence seperating a part of Greenville from Southampton, it enters North Carolina, between Northampton and Gates counties, and joins the Nottaway to form the Chowan, between Gates and Hertford counties. The entire comparative course of the Mehorin is about 95 miles, but the valley is nar- row, not exceeding 20 miles width at any part, (mean width hardly 10,) area 46 GENERAL DESCRIPTION about 900 square miles, lying- between the vallies of Roanoke and Nottaway. MoxoNGAiiELA liver, in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, is formed by Monongahela proper, Tygart's Valley river, Cheat river, and the Yough- ioghany. The Cheat is in fact the main stream, having its remote source in the southern part of Randolph county, Virginia, at lat. 38° 2? ', interlock- ing sources with those of Green river, and Jackson's branch of James river. The remote sources of Tygart's Valley river, are nearly as far south as those of Cheat, and also in Randolph county. The mountain ridge from which both streams rise is known locally as Greenbrier mountain, and the valleys from which the higher sources are derived, must be at least 2,500 feet eleva- ted above tide water in Chesapeake bay. Monongahela proper, is the western branch, rising in Lewis county, Vir- ginia, with interlocking sources with those of Tygart's Valley and little Kanawha. The three branches near their sources, pursue a general nor- thern course, but the two western, gradually approach each other, and unite at lat. 39° 28', where they form a point of seperation between Harrison and Monongalia counties. Thence assuming a northern course over the latter county, finally leave Virginia, and form a junction with Cheat on the boundary between Fayette and Green counties, Pennsylvania. The Cheat in the highest part of its course, flows along a mountain valiej', in a northern direction, but gradually inclining to northwestward, as already noticed under the head of Cheat river. Below the junction of the main branches, the Monongahela, by a rather circuitous channel, pursues a gener- al northern course over Pennsylvania, about 50 miles, comparative length to its junction with Youghioghany, 1 1 miles S. E. of Pittsburg. The Youghioghany is a considerable branch, having its remote sources in the western part of Alleghany county, }\Iaryland. Flowing thence northwardU', enters Pennsylvania, and separating for some few miles, So- merset, from Fayette county, receives a large tributary from the eastward, Casselman's river, and turning to N. N. W. about 50 miles, comparative course, is lost in the Monongahela at MacKeesport. Augmented by the Youghioghany, the Monongahela below the junction, assumes the course of the former, 18 miles by the channel, but only 11 direct distance to Pittsburg, Avhere it unites with the Alleghany to form the Ohio. The general course of the Monongahela is almost exactly north, and almost as exactly along long. 3° W. Washington, 150 miles by comparative distance. The widest part of its valley lies nearly along the line between Pennsylvania and Vir- ginia, 80 miles; the mean width 40, and area 6,000 square miles. If Ave allow only 1,500 feet elevation to the arable country on the head branches of Cheat, Pittsburg being elevated 678 feet, will give a descent of 822 feet to the valley of Monongahela. The extremes of lat. are thus almost exactly compensated by declivity, and explain why the seasons near Pittsburg and in Randolph county, Virginia, differ but slightly. Though the two eastern branches, Cheat and Youghioghany, rise in mountain vallies, and the whole country drained by all the tributaries of IMon- ongahela is very broken and rocky, direct falls are rare and of no great ele- vation Avhen they occur. Cheat river, is naA'igable through Monongalia and Preston, into Randolph county; both branches of Monongahela proper, above their junction, and Youghioghany to Ohio, have falls. 1'he whole Aal- ley has gained recent increase of importance as being part of the route or rovites of proposed lines of canal improvement. Monongahela river is 400 yards wide at its mouth; at the mouth of the OF VIRGINIA. 47 Youghio^-hanoy 12 or 15 niilos higher up, it is 300 yards widt,-; and continues of that width to the mouth of Cheat river, a distance of 90 miles by water, but only oS by land. In this space the navigation is frequently interrupted by rapids, but are passable by boats when the river rises a few feet. From tliat point it admits light boats, except in dry seasons Gu miles further, to the head of Tygint's valley, — presenting only some falls of a few feet, and lessen- ing in width to 20 yards. The western fork is navigable in winter 10 or 15 miles, towards the northern branch of the Little Kanawha, to which a good wagon road might be made. The Youghioghany is the principal branch of this river. This branch passes through the Laurel mountain about 300 miles from its mouth, and is that far, from 300 to 150 yards Avide, and the navigation much obstructed in dry weather by rapids and shoals. In its passage through the mountain the fall is very great, admitting no naviga- tion for ten miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the great crossing, about 20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry seasons, and is at that place 20 3'ards wide. The sources of this river are divided from those of the Poto- mac by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls at which it intercepts the Laurel mountian to Fort Cumberland, the head of navigation on the Potomac, i.s 40 miles of very mountaneous road. Willis' creek, at the mouth of which Avas Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but beyond that, there is no navigation. Nansemond river rises in Isle of Wight and Nansemond counties, but chiefly in the latter. It opens by a comparatively wide bay into Hamp- ton Roads, and is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Sleepy Hole, for those of 100, to Suffolk, the county toAvn of Nansemond, and for those of 25 tons to Milner's. Nottoway river, of Virginia and North Carolina, has its most remote source in Prince Edward county. Flowing thence S. S. E. betAveen Not- taway and Lunenburg counties, between DiuAviddie and BrunsAvick, turns to eastward betAveen Greensville and the Avcsternpart of Sussex. Entering the latter, and first curving nortlnvard Avinds to S. E., and traA^ersing Sussex and Southampton counties, receives BlackAvater riA-er from the north, and entering Gates cotinty. North Carolina, bends to S. W. 10 miles to its junc- tion Avith Meherin, to form ChoAvan riA'er. The entire length of NottaAA-ay by comparative courses is 110 miles. The NottoAA^ay valley is about 100 miles, by 20 mean Avidth, comprising great part of NottaAvay, DiuAviddic, Sussex, Surry, and Southampton counties, and a smaller part of Lunenburg, BrunsAvick, Greensville, Prince George, Isle of Wight, and Nansemond counties, and a minor part of Gates county, North Carolina. OccoauAN river rises in Loudon, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, tra- verses and drains the Avestern part of Prince William county, and thence forming the boundary betAA^een Prince William and Fairfax counties, falls into the Potomac, about 25 miles below Washington City, and nearly oppo- site Indian Point. [See Prince William county.] Ohio forms the boundary of Virginia for 355 miles. It is in some re- spects the most remarkable river upon earth. The physical section of the earth drained by it lies betAveen lat. 34° 12' and 42° 27', and long. 1° and 12° Avest of Washington City. The course of the Ohio proper, from the sources of Alleghany to its junction Avith the Mississippi, is by calculation 59° 30' AA-est, GSO statute miles. The form of the valley of the Ohio approaches, in a very remarkable manner, that of a regular ellipse, of Avhich a line druAvn from its most north- 48 GENERAL DESCRIPTION em to its most southern sources, from Orleans creek, Cataraugus county, New York, to Bear Grass creek, Marion county, Alabama, 750 statute miles, — would be the transverse diameter, and another line extending from the Blue Ridge, where the sources of the Great Kanawha and those of Watauga branch of Tennessee rise, to the northwestern sources of the Wa- bash, 450 miles, would be the congugate axis. Measured by the rhombs following the elements in the following table, the area comes out more than 200,000 square miles: Table of the extent in square miles of the valley of Ohio river: square miles. 8,986 - 25,655 29,205 32,700 32,250 - 32,742 29,488 9,085 Between lat 34° and 35° ox '-4 Rhon 35 36 6i do. 36 37 H do. 37 38 H do. 38 39 H do. 39 40 8# do. 40 41 8 do. 41 42 2i do. Aggregate extent in square miles, - - - 200, 111 Allowing the greatest length to be 750 miles, the mean width will be 267 very nearly, or the mean breadth amounts to within a trifling fraction of one-third of the greatest length, a compactness seldom equalled in rivers. If the Alleghany is regarded as the primary and remote constituent of Ohio, this great stream rises by numerous creeks in McKean and Potter counties, Pennsylvania, and Alleghany and Cataraugus counties, New York. Becoming navigable near the line of demarcation between the two states, the stream, with partial windmgs, pursues the general course already stated, to its junction with the Mississippi, affording a natural navigable channel of between 1,200 and 1,300 miles. The opposing inclined plains of Ohio val- ley are of unequal extent, nearly in the proportion of two to three, the larger falling from the Appalachian system of mountains, and containing 120,000 square miles. In their features also the two Ohio plains differ essentially. The south- eastern, declining from a mountainous outline, has a comparatively rapid slope. The most elevated table land from which the eastern tributaries flow, is that where rise the sources of Clinch, Holston, and Great Kanawha, about 2,500 feet. The Appalachian table land declines in relative elevation both to north and south of this nucleus, but there is no one part from the sources of Alleghany and Genesee to those of Tennessee and Coosa, through 7° of lat. but which'exceeds 1,000 feet. The elevation of Ohio at Pittsburg, Avhere the Alleghany and Mononga- hela unite, is 678 feet, and that of the low Avater at the confluence of Ohio and Mississippi 283 feet; of course the Ohio below Pittsburg, has a fall of 395 feet in 948 miles, the length of the intermediate channel. The left tri- butaries must have, from the preceding data, a descent of from 1,000 to 2,200 feet. Down this rapid declivity, advancing from north to south, are found the streams of Clarion, Kiskiminitas, Monongahela, Great Kanawha, Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland and Tennessee, and several of lesser length of course, whose sources do not reach the Appalachian vallies. It may well excite surprise, that along this steep plain, direct falls are not frequent, and where they do occur are of moderate direct pitch. OF VIRGINIA. 40 To an eye sufficiently elevated, and powers of vision sufficiently enlaro-ed, the whole valley of Ohio would appear one immense declivity, falling- very nearly at right angles to the general range of the Appalachian system, and the rivers would appear to have cut deep channels seldom in a direction cor- responding to the plane of general descent. Of these channels that of Ohio would appear as the principal. Per- sons competent have carefully measured the height of the hills, in the vicinity of Pittsburg, and found them about 400 feet above the low water level of the riv'ors, or 1,138 feet above the level of the Atlantic tides. Above Pittsburo- to the hills, which rise like mountains from lake Erie, the ascent is at least 400 feet, and below Pittsburg the fall to the Mississippi has been shown to be 395 feet. Without therefore estimating mountain ridges, the great in- clined plain of Ohio has a descent of upwards of a foot to the statute mile, but what is something remarkable, the rivers, and particularly the Ohio it- self, do not Ihll gradually with the planes of their courses. The actual 4:hannel from Pittsburg to the mouth is 918 statute miles, and the hW 4,710 inches, or not quite five inches per mile. The waters in effect have abraded their channels, deeper toward their sources than in proportion to length of course. It is this circumstance which has contributed to give to the Ohio proper, the appearance of flowing in a deep and immense ravine. The diflerence of climate arising from dif- ference of level, frequently exceeding a degree of latitude in less than a mile, and radiated heat, with an exuberant alluvial soil, giving in spring a preco- <:ious vegetation along the river bank, have superinduced great misunder- standing respecting the temperature and seasons of this region. Descending the Ohio, say from Pittsburg, the scenery along the banks and hills, is in an eminent degree picturesque and varied, but these fine fea- tures imperceptibly fade away, and long before reaching the Mississippi, to- .tally disappear, and leave a narrow horizontal ring sweeping round the heavens, formed by the trees along the banks. As a navigable channel, few, if any other rivers of the globe, equal the Ohio. In the higher part of its course, the navigation is annually more or less impeded in winter by ice, and in autumn by a want of water. Impedi- ment from ice prevails in all its course, but below the influx of Kanawha, drought is of less injury, and below the rapids at Louisville, in a com- mercial point of view, removed by a navigable canal. The four most important of all mineral productions abound in the Ohio valley, limestone, mineral coal, sah, and iron ore. Of all continuous bodies of productive soil on earth, if climate and fertility are combined, the valley of Ohio will, it is probable, sustain the most dense population. Not long since there did not exist upon its immense surface 20,000 civilized human beings. In 1831, it sustained about 3,000,000. Can the history of the world afford any parallel to such increase? Pamuxkey river, the principal constituent of York river, is formed by Pamunky proper and North Anna. The latter rises in Orange, the nor- thern part of Louisa and in Spottsylvania counties, and flowing thence southeastward unites with the Pamunkey, between Caroline and Hanover counties. The Pamunky rises in the S. W. mountain, on the border between Al- bemarle and Louisa; drains the southern and central part of Louisa, and traversing Hanover, joins the North Anna. Below their junction, the uni- ted waters, known by the name of Pamunky, preserve the original course 7 ' 50 GENERAL DESCRIPTION southeastward, about 45 miles comparative course, (but perhaps double that distance by the bends,) to its junction with Mattaponj^ to form York river. The entire comparative length of Pamunkey, by either branch, is about 90 miles. The broadest part of the valley but little exceeds 30 miles, and is only about 15 mean width, area 1,300 square miles, lying between those of James and Chickahominy on the right, and IMattopcny on the left. Pig river, rises in the southeastern slope of the Blue Ridge, and flowing thence eastward, between Black water and Irvine rivers, traverses and drains the central part of Franklin county, and entering Pittsylvania, turns to E. and falls into Roanoke, after a comparative course of 35 miles. PocATALico. — This river has its sources near the northern boundary of the county of Kanawha, and flows through a body of forest land finely tim- bered: much of it fertile, and sufficiently level for advantageous cultivation. The alluvial lands on its borders, are generally rich, and of width suffi- cient to form good farms. Pocatilico discharges itself into the Great Kanawha, 20 miles below Charleston, and forty miles above the mouth of the latter river; it is navigable by batteaux, which ascend from 20 to 30 miles, and during the winter and spring months, large and heavy loaded boat-s may descend with safety, as also rafts of timber of various description.s. Extensive beds of rich bituminous coal, are found near the Pocatalico, and its branches, and iron ores apparently of good quality, are often dug out of the hills. Potomac river, of Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania. This river above Blue Ridge, is formed by the north branch, distinctively called Poto- mac, Patterson's river, South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequhan and Sheandoah, from the southwestward, and by a series of bold, though com- paratively small streams from the northv.-ard. The stream to Avhich the name of Potomoc is first applied, rises in the Alleghany chain, opposite to the sources of Cheat and Youghioghany branches of Monongahela, at lat. 39° 10' long, from Washington city, 2° 30' W. Flowing thence N. E. 30 miles, receives from the north, Savage river, and bending to S. E. 10 miles, traverses one or two minor chains of mountains, and returning to N. E. 18 miles to the influx of Will's creek, from the north at Cumberland. NoAva considerable stream, by a very tortuous channel, but direct distance 15 miles to S. E., the Potomac below Cumberland, breaks through several chains of mountains to the influx of South Branch. The latter is in length of course, and area drained, the main branch. The various sources of this mountain river originate in Pendleton county, Virginia, lat. 38° 25', be- tween the Alleghany and Kittatinny chains. Assuming a general course of N. E., the branches unite in Hardy county, near Moorfields, below which, in a distance comparative course of 40 miles to its union with the N. Branch, the South Branch receives no considerable tributary. The volume formed by both branches, breaks through a mountain chain immediately be- low their junction, and bending to N. E. by comparative distance of 25 miles, but by a very winding channel reaches its extreme northern point at Hancock's town, lat. 39° 41', and within less than two miles south of the southern boundary of Pennsylvania. Passing Hancock's town the Potomac again inflects to S. E., and as above \xinds by a very crooked channel, but by comparative course of 35 miles to the influx of Shenandoah from the southward. OF VIRGINIA. 51 Shenandoah is the longest branch of Potomac, having a comparative length of 130 miles, and brings down a volume of water but little inferior to that of the main stream. It has its most remote sources in Augusta county, V-^irginia, interlocks sources with those of Great Calf Pasture branch of James river, and by Blue Ridge, is separated from those of Rivan- na, as far soutii aslal. 3?'^ 5a', almost exactly due west of the entrance of Po- tomac into Chesapeake bay. The elongated valley of Shenandoah is part of the great mountain valley of Kittatinny, and comprises nearly all the counties of Augu>ta, Rockingham, Page and Shenandoah, with the eastern sections of Frederick and Jelferson. The upper valley of Potomac, inclu- ding that of Shenandoah is in length from S. W. to N. E. 160 miles, where broadest 75 miles, but has a mean breadth of 50 miles, area 8,000 square miles. The water level of Potomac at Harper's Ferry is 288 feet above lide water; therefore we may assume at 350 feet the lowest arable land in the valley above the Blue Ridge. This is equivalent to a degree of latitude on the aerial temperature at the lowest point of depression. So rapid is the rise, however, in crossing the valley to the foot of Alleghany mountain, that an allowance of 1,200 feet is rather too moderate an estimate for the extremes of cultivated soil. Pas.^ing the Blue Ridge, with partial windings, the Potomac continues S. E. by comparative courses 50 miles to the lower falls and head of ocean tides at Georgetown. Having in the intermediate distance received the Monocacy river, from the north, and some minor creeks from the south; like the Delav/are, below Trenton, and the higher part of Chesapeake biy. below the mouth of Sasquehannah the Potomac, meeting the tide, bends along the outer margin of the prim,ilive rock. It is indeed very remarka- ble that the three bends, in the three consecutive rivers, follow almost ex- actly the same geographical line; or flow from head of tide water, S. W. — the Delaware 60, Chesapeake 40, and Potomac 45 miles, — the latter a few miles below the place at which it retires from the primitive rocks, reaches within six miles of the Rappahannock, below Fradericksburg. The two latter rivers not far from parallel to each other, assume a comparative course 75 miles to the N. E., the intermediate peninsula being no where above 22 miles wide, and the distance from the south side of the mouth of the Poto- mac, to the north side of that of the Rappahannock, is only 20 miles. Combining the two sections above and below the Blue Ridge, the whole basin of the Potomac embraces an area of 12,950 square miles, extending from lat. 37° 50' to 40°, r>.nd in long. 0° 45' E. to 2° 45' W. of Washington citJ^ The winding of its tide water channel renders the navigation of the Potomac bay (for such it is below George Town,) tedious though not dan- gerous. The channel has sufficient depth to admit ships of the line of 74 guns to the navy yard at Wasliington. With its defects and advantages as an agricultural and commercial sec- tion, — the basin of the Potomac is a very interesting object in physical and political geography; — deriving its sources from the main Appalachian spine, the Potomac has worn its channel through the intervening chains to their bases; and performed an immense disproportion of the necessary task to effect a water rout into the valley of the Ohio, — i,uch a rout has been commenced under the nam.e of Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and is yet in progress. The Potomac is eight mi!»='S wide at its mouth, four and a half at Nomony bay, three at Acquia, one and a half at Plollooing point, and ono and a half at Alexandria. 5:> "GENERAL DESCRIPTION Its soundings are seven fathoms at its mouth, five at St. Georges island, four and a half at Lower Matchodie, three at Swan's point and up to Alexan- dria, thence 20 feet of water to the falls, which are 13 miles above Alexan- dria'. These falls are 15 miles in length, and of very great descent, and the navigation above them for batteaux and canoes is so much interrupted as to be little used, It is however used in a small degree up the Cohongoronta branch as far as Cumberland, at the mouth of Wills's creek; and is capable of being made navigable at no grerat expence. The Shenandoah branch interlocks with the sources of James river, near the Blue Ridge. Rappahannock river, formed by two branches, Hedgeman's and Thornton's rivers, both deriving their remote sources from Blue Ridge.- Hedo-eman's river, after a comparative course of 30 miles, between Fauquier and Culpeper counties, receives Thornton's river from the latter, arid the united waters continuing the course of the former S. E. 20 miles, join the Rapid Ann. A navigable river at the junction of its two main branches, the Rappahannock, continues to the S. E. 10 miles to its lowest falls, where it traverses the primitive ledge, and meets the ocean tides at Fredericksburg. Similar to the Delaware, and all the large western tributaries of Chesapeake bay, the Rappahannock turns after passing the primitive rock, but after a short curve to the southward, this stream resumes a S. E. course, which with a rather tortuous channel it maintains to Leeds, in Westmoreland county, where it approaches to within five miles of Potomac, at the mouth of Mat- fox creek. Gradually widening, and with the features of a long, narrow- bay of 55 miles, the Rappahannock by a S. S, E. course, is lost in Chesa- peake bay between Windmill and Stingray points. The tide ascends this channel to the falls at Fredericksburg, something above 100 miles, admit- ting vessels of considerable tonnage. In all the distance below the union of its two main branches, it does not receive any accession above the size of a small creek. The entire basin is 140 miles by a mean width of 20; area 2,800 square miles. Extending in lat. from 37° 34' to 38° 44', and in long. from 0° 41' east to 1° 22' west of Washington. Rapid Ann river, deriving its remote sources from the Blue Rido-e, and flowing thence S. E. 20 miles across the valley, between Blue Ridge and South East mountain, turns thence N. E. 15 miles to the influx of Robertson's river from the N. W. Passing South East mountain and inflecting to a general eastern course of 30 miles, it joins the Rappahan- nock 10 miles above Fredericksburg, after a comparative course of 65 miles. In nearly the whole of its length Rapid Ann separates Orange count}/- first 35 miles from Madison, and thence 25 from Culpeper. At their junction it is superior in volume to Rappahannock; and exceeding also in length, of course, the Rapid Ann is the main stream. RivANNA river, a branch of James river, is navigable to its intersection Avith the South West mountain, which is about 22 miles. The navigation has lately been opened by dams and canals, and it is now navigable to Pi- reus, within one mile and a quarter of Charlottesville. Rock creek, a small stream of Maryland, and of the District of Columbia, gains importance only as it separates the city of Washington from George- town. This creek has its extreme source about four miles westward of Me- chanicsville, Montgomery county, Maryland, heading with the east branch of' Potomac river, at an elevation above tide water at Georgetown of 500 fvct. The entire length of the creek, follov/ing its valley, is about 28 miles. OF VIRUIMA. 535 The full bfiiig upwards of 17 feet to the mile, and that fall being in niany places far above the mean, renders it an excellent mill-stream. RoANOKK river, of Virginia and North Carolina. Taken in the ntmost extent, Roanoke basin is the same as Albemarle, and includes the sub-basins or rallies of Roanoke proper, and Chowan river. Advancing from south to north, all the rivers beyond the Roanoke, have their most remote foun- tains on the Atlantic side of Blue Ridge; but with the Roanoke a new fea- ture appears. The Blue Ridge is pierced by that stream, Avhich derives its higher fountains from the main Alleghany chain in Montgomery county, Virginia, and within eight miles of the main channel of New river, and at an elevation without estimating the mountain ridges, of at least 2,000 feet. Issuing by numerous creeks from this elevated tract, and uniting into one stream near the border between Montgomery and Botetourt ^counties, it is here literally "The Rapid Roanoke," having at Salem, in the latter county, fallen 1,000 feet in little more than 20 miles. At Salem the water level is 1,002 feet by actual admeasurement, above mean Atlantic tide. Below Sa- lem the river inflects 20 miles in an eastern course, to its passage through Blue Ridge, and thence S. E. 2.i miles to its passage through South East mountain. Passing South East mountain between Bedford and Pittsylvania counties, the now navigable volume sweeps by an elliptic curve to north- ward, and round to S. E. 50 miles comparative course, to the influx of Dan river, entering its right side from the west part. Below the junction of these two rivers, the united waters in a course a little south of east 60 miles by comparative distance, reach tide water at Weldon, having fallen by a lengthened cataract over the primitive ledge. About midway between the influx of Dan river and Weldon, Roanoke leaves Virginia and enters North Carolina. Mingling with the tide, the Roanoke by a very tortuous channel, but b}" comparative course flows South East 50 miles, and thence eastward 25 miles to its junction with Chowan river at the head of Albe- marle sound. The entire valley of Roanoke, if measured along the main stream or Dan river is 250 miles, but the rivers wind over this space by channels of much greater length. By comparative courses it is 155 miles from Salem to Weldon, whilst from a report made by the Roanoke compa^ ny, the intermediate channel is 244 miles. Taking these proportions, the length of this river by its meanders is about 400 miles. Including the whole Albemarle basin, it is 290 miles from its outlet into the Atlantic ocean, Id the fountains of Roanoke in Alleghany mountain, but with the Chowan' and Dan A-allies united to that of the principal river, the basin is compara- tively narrow, being only 80 miles where broadest, and not having a mean breadth above 50 miles, or an area exceeding 14,500 square miles. It is not, however, its extent which gives most interest to the Roanoke or Albe- marle basin ; it is at once a fine physical section and physical limit. The difference of arable level, amounts to at least 2,000 feet, and no two regions of the earth can differ in every feature more than do the truly beautiful hills and vales on each side of the Appalachian chains, from the stagnant marshes and level plains towards the Atlantic ocean. Along the loAver Roanoke commences, advancing from the north the profitable cultivation of cotton, the fig tree begins to appear, rice can be produced, and in summer the ad' A'ance towards the tropics is felt, and very distinctly seen on vegetation. Ascending the basin, the aspect of the northern states gradually appears, both on the features of nature and on cultivated vegetables. Wheat, rye, and other small grain, with meadow grasses, and the apple, llourish. The 54 GENERAL DESCRIPTION summers are cooler, and the winters have the severity suitable to relative elevation. Though the higher part of Roanoke is annually frozen, and for a shorter or longer period rendered unnavigable in winter, with lower Roan- oke commences the region on the Atlantic coast where navigation remains open at all seasons. It is true that even Albemarle sound has been occa- sionally impeded with ice, but this phenomenon is rare. As a navigable channel following either branch, the importance of this basin is lessened by the shallowness of Albemarle sound — an irremovable impediment. At present, however, there is in progress a scheme for connecting, by rail-road, the navigable tide water below Weidon with Chesapeake bay. In its actual state the rivers are navigable for boats to Salem on the Roan- oke, and to Danbury in North Carolina by Dan river. This was effected by side canals, sluices and other artificial improvements. Sandy river, of Virginia and Kentucky, is composed of two branches, called relatively East fork and West fork, East fork, the main constituent of Sandy, rises in the Appalachian valleys, interlocking sources with those of Great Kanawha to the east, and with those of Holstonand Clinch branches of Tennessee river to the S. E, Issuing from this elevated region, and draining part of Tazewell and Logan counties, Virginia, the Sandy river pursues a N. W. direction by comparative courses 50 miles, to its passage through Cumberland mountain. Becoming a boundary between Virginia and Kentucky below the Cumberland chain, Sandy assumes a direction of N. N. W. 70 miles, separating Logan and Cabell counties, of Virginia, from Floyd, Lawrence, and Grreenup counties, of Kentucky, to its final in- flux into Ohio river opposite Burlington, Ohio. West Sandy rises in Rus- sell and Tazewell counties, Virginia, and assuming a N. W. direction pierces the Cumberland chain, enters Kentuckj^ and after traversing Pike and Floyd counties, bends to the northward and joins East Sandy in Lawrence county. The valley of Sandy river has that of Tennessee river S., Kentucky S. W., Licking W., that of Ohio N., GJuyandotte E., and Great Kanawha S. E. It is about 100 miles long, mean width 35, and area 3,500 square miles. Shenandoah river, one of the great southern branches of Potomac river, is composed of two branches, called with no great relatiA-e correctness, North Branch and South Branch. The southern and main branch rises in Augusta county, as far south as latitude 38°, and long. 2° west of Wash- ington City. Flowing thence northeastward along the northwestern slope of Blue Ridge, over Augusta, Rockingham, and Page counties, receives the North Branch in the southern angle of Federick county, after a com- parative course of 90 miles. The North Branch of Shenandoah river has its source in Rockingham county, from which it flows by comparative courses N. N. E. 50 miles over Rockingham and Shenandoah counties, enters Frederick, bends to the east- ward, and joins the South Branch as already noticed. Below the junction of its two branches, the Shenandoah flows N. E. along the N. W. slope of Blue Ridge 40 miles to its junction with the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. Tennessek river, of the state of the same name, and of the states of Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, and Virginia, is the great southeastern constituent of the Ohio. The very peculiar features of the valley of Tennessee, demand a general and particular notice. This valley is naturally divided into two phA'sical sections; the higher or moun- tainous, and the lower cr h'"v. Thr mcf;t remote "curce'; ef Tennessee are OF VIP.GLMA. 55 fouml in tliosc of Clinch, in Tazewell, and of llolstun in Wythe counties, of Virginia, interlocking sources with those of Sandy and Groat Kanawha. From this elevated origin, the main constituents pursue a southwestern course between the two parallel chains of the Appalachian system, Cum- berland, and the main spine, both stretching in a similar direction with the rivers, at a mean distance of about 70 miles asunder. Besides this princi- pal valley, another of less width between the main chain and Blue Kido-e, is also drained by the constituents of Tennessee; but this more eastern and more elevated valley slopes to the N. W., at right angles to the mountain chains. The latter mountain valley comprises the North Carolina and Georgia part of the valley of Tennessee. Including both minor vallies, upper Tennessee drains an elongated ellipise of 350 miles lono-cr axis- shorter axis 1-20 miles from the Blue Ridge at the sources of French Broad, to Cumberland mountain, where it separates the sources of Powell's river from those of Cumberland: mean breadth 80 miles, and area 24,000 square miles. Descending from the extreme fountains in Virginia, the valley widens as the mountain chains recede from each other, and again contracts as the same chains gradually re-approach each other at the northwestern angle of Georgia, and northeastern of Alabama. At the latter point, well known by the name of Nickajack, all the large tributaries have united, and the Blue Ridge and Cumberland chains have inclined to within less than 40 miles of each other. Below Nickajack, the now large volume of Tennes- see continues S. W. 60 miles, without receiving a single creek of 20 miles course, the two bounding mountain chains still inclining upon each other, till their approaching bases force the river through the Cumberland chain. To one whose eye first glanced on the volume of Tennessee, below its pas- sage through Cumberland mountain, without previous knowledge of the valley above, no adequate idea would occur, that before it, flowed the accu- mulated waters of a mountainous region of 24,000 square miles extent. In fact, to an observer, thus placed, the main volume of Tennessee would ap- pear as one of the constituents of a river valley below the Cumberland chain. About 20 miles below the passage of Tennessee river through it, the Cumberland mountain receives the Blue Ridge, if such a term can be correctly applied to the merging of two mountain chains. Here, along the northern sources of Mobile basin, the Appalachian system changes its dis- tinctive character, and the confused masses of hills follow each other west- wardly toward the Mississippi. The Tennessee river deflects rather more than does the mountain system, and flows N. W. by W. by comparative courses 120 miles, to the northwestern angle of Alabama, and the northeast- ern of Mississippi, where this large stream again bends at nearly right an- gles, and pursues a course of a very little west of north 150 miles, to its en- trance into the Ohio, after an entire comparative course of 680 miles. The second great section of Tennessee, and the lower part of the first, below Nickajack, are comprised in the fine noiihern valley of Alabama. The main volume flowing along the base of a physical line extending from the Ohio valley in the vicinity of Pittsburg, to the northern part of the ba- sin of Mobile. The very striking coincidence of the river inflections be- tween the extremes of this region, must appear to the most inattentive ob- server of a good map of that part of the United States. This regularity of structure is evinced by the great inflections of Ohio, Knnav/ha, Kentucky. Green. Cumberland, and Tennessee rivers. The Tennessee itself literally occupies the base of the physical region indicated, as in all its comparative 5G GENERAL DESCRIPTION course below Nickajack, or its entrance into Alabama, of 330 miles, it does not receive a single stream above the size of a large creek, nor does the outer selvedge of its valley on the left, in Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, and Kentucky, exceed a mean breadth of 20 miles. On the right, embosomed between Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, and comprising- central Tennes- see, and northern Alabama, spreads a physical region, extending from Cum- berland mountain to the lower reach of Tennessee river, 130 miles, with a mean breadth of 80 miles, and an area of 10,400 square miles. This beau- tiful tract is semi-circled by the main volume of Tennessee, and drained by Elk river, Duck river, and innumerable creeks. Belov,' Duck river, how- ever, Tennessee receives no stream from either side of any magnitude wor- thy notice in a general vieAv. Including all its sections, the lower valley of Tennessee comprises an area of 17,600 square miles; and the whole val- ley embraces a superficies of 41,600 square miles. This extent of Tennes- see valley, if compared with the whole valley of Ohio, spreads over nearl}' one-fifth part, and gives to Tennessee the first rank among the tributaries of Ohio. Amongst the peculiar features of the course of Tennessee, the most remarkable is, that rising as far north as lat. 37° 10', and curving thence southward to lat. 34° 23', it again recurves back to its original lati- tude, and falls into the Ohio river almost exactly due west from its primi- tive springs in Tazewell county; thus embosoming nearly the whole large valley of Cumberland, and part of that of Crreen river. Geographically, Tennessee valley lies between north lat. 34° 10' and 37° 10', and in long, between 4° 15' and 11° 40' west of Washington. It is the first and largest, advancing from the south, of those streams gushing from the elevated slopes of the Appalachian ridges, and which flow westward into the great basin of the Mississippi. In~"relative height, there is above 1,700 feet difierence between the highest and lowest extremes of Tennessee valley. The arable surface of Tazewell and Wythe counties, from which the fountains of Ka- nawha and Holston have their origin, must be at least 2,000 feet above the Atlantic tides; whilst that of Ohio river, at the influx of Tennessee, but lit- tle exceeds 300 feet. The difference is fully an equivalent for 4° of latitude, and accounts for the rapid changes of climate experienced on lines of lati- tude in Tennessee. The current of every branch of Tennessee is very rapid, though direct falls are rare, and even dangerous shoals are not common. Of the latter, those particularly called Muscle Shoals, between Lauderdale and Lawrence counties, Alabama, are most remarkable and difficult to navigate. The whole river, however, having a mean fall exceeding two feet to the mile, is only favorable to down stream navigation, which it admits in most of its branches to near their sources. Tye river, a small river of Virginia, rising in the Blue Ridge, and flowing southeastward into James river, after draining part of Nelson and Amherst counties, and by one of its constituents, Piney river, forming for some feAv miles the boundary between those counties. York river of Virginia, formed by two main branches, Pamunky and Mattapony. BeloAv the union of its constituent streams, York river is ra- ther a bay, varying from two to three miles in width, extending to the S. E. 27 miles, and thence cast 12 miles, into Chesapeake, between York and Gloucester counties. Below the junction of Pamunky and Mattapony ri- rivers; York bay does not receive a tributary above the size of a small creek. It admits ships of any size to or near the Great Bend at York- town, but above admits only coasting vessels. Including all its tributaries. OF VIRGINIA, 57 Inc valley of York river lies betAvcen those of James and Rappahannock. The greatest length 120 miles from the mouth of York river to the ex- treme source of North Anna river, in South West mountain; but, if taken with this extent the mean width Avould not exceed 20 miles, and at the ut- most breadth, only about 45 miles. The area 2,000 square miles. Exten- ding in lat. from 37^ 15' to 38^ IG', and in long, from 0° 41' E. to 1° 22' W. of Washington. YouGuioGHANY rivcT of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, having its most remote sources in Preston county of the latter state, but deriving its most numerous southern tributaries from the valley between the Back Bono and Laurel mountains, Alloghany county, Maryland. From this elevated tract the main stream flows nearly due north 35 miles, enters Pennsylva- nia between Fayette and Somerset counties, within which it thence flows about eight miles direct course to where it is joined by Castleman's river, an equal or probably a superior stream, entering from the N. E. Some of the southern fountains of Castleman's river, rise in Alleghany count}'-, Mary- laud, but the greater part of its tributaries flow from Somerset county; Pennsylvania, and rise in the same valley with the confluents of Youghio- ghany. Below the union of the two main branches the Youghioghany assuming a northwestern course, continues in that direction GO miles to its j-anctionVith the Monongahela at MacKees port, in Alleghany county. Where Youghioghany is \ra versed by the United States road at Smrthfield, the water level is 1,405 feel above that of the Atlantic. The extreme heads of this stream have an elevation exceeding 2,500 feet; the mouth being ele- vated about 700 feet, the entire fall must be 1,800 feet. The whole valley ef Youghioghany is either mountainous or very hilly and broken, CLIMATE. The following article was received too late for inscrtioli in its proper place, but we insert it here as aftbrding some evidence of attention and ob- servation upon a subject of Avhich our men of science have been too negli- gent; and which requires the joint and persevering labor of many hands to afford any thing like accurate detail or valuable information. At the discovery of our continent it presented an immense forest untouch- ed by human labor. The majestic rivers of the new world, swelling by every shower, inundated the Avhole country, and left in their track numer- ous marshes and extensive lakes. The woods were hid with rank luxu- riance, while the exuberant undergrowth of herbs, shrubs, and weeds, gave to the prospect that gloomy and repulsive solitude whicli was so aptly de- scribed by the first s^cUle-rs as /A< wilderness. The earth could not retam the heat of the sun, nor could this effbctbe produced by the mass of foliage. The air stagnated in the forest. Oflbnsive exhalations arose ft-om the nu- merous marshes, and the accumulated d.-cay oi' vegetation, while the whole land was rife with the pestilence of malaria. . ^ t c We cannot always arrive at deflnite conclusions of the^ climate of any country by barely measuring its degrees of distance from the equator. Its character "is controlled by many other direct causes. Extent of territory- nature of soil— height of mountains and elevation above the sea, greatly affect it The extent of our northern seas, AVith the ice which continues there from year to year, gives to every wind which blows over them an intense cold. A chain of gigantic mountains spread their snow-capped 58 GENERAL DESCRIPTION summits througliout the heart of our continent. The winds which blow over them become deeply surcharged with cold, whose piercing severity is not diminished until it has extended far down upon our southern sea coast. Our daily experience attests the truth of this fact. The climate of Virginia has not been stationary. To trace its character- istics is to follow the varying passions of the coquette — now enticing by seductive smiles — and now chilling by capricious frowns. Yet it is the clime under whose genial influence we have been bred, and we can easily forget its vicissitudes in the glittering canopy of life and beauty which it throws around every scene. Those Avho have dwelt amid the sunny clime of Italy — the fierce heat of Spain, and the elastic air of France, can appre- ciate from the test of comparison, the softness of a Virginian day — and how- splenetic soever we may be, it never has gloom enough to make us "damn it as a lord." Captain John Smith, in his faithful and spirited History of the Colony of Virginia, makes many allusions to its climate, and with a proper allowance for his zeal in coloring the advantages of a settlement in the colony, we may receive his statements as the honest opinions of a careful and accurate observer. " The sommer (says he) is hot as in Spaine, the winter cold as in France or England. The heate of sommer is in June, July, and August, but com' monly the cool breezes asswage the vehernency of the heate. The chief of the winter is halfe December, January, February, andhalfe March. The cold is extreme sharpe, but here the proverbe is true 'that no extreme long continueth.' Sometimes there are great droughts, other times much raine, yet greater necessitie of neither, by reason Ave see not but that all the raritie of needful fruites in Europe may be there in great plentie by the Industrie of man." In an earnest appeal to the friends of the colony, he again recoHti- mends it for the "mildnesss of the ayre and the fertilitie of the soyle " This sketch of the colony is studiously silent as to the existence of marsh- es, though much of the ill health of the first emigrants, may be traced to them.* In giving an account of the bays, rivers, and brooks, our author incidentally remarks that "by the rivers are many plain marshes contain- ing some twenty, some one hundred and some two hundred acres. But lit- tle of grasse there is but what groweth in low marshes." In the advance of population and agricultural improvement, these inarshes Avere gradually're- duced. Mr. Nathaniel Causecy, who had lived in Virginia with Captain Smith, states in the year 1G27, "that whereas the country was heretofore held_ most intemperate and contagious by many, noAv they have houses, lodging, and victuals, and the sun hath power to exhale up the moist vapors of the earth Avhere they have cut down the woods, which before it could not, being covered with spreading tops of high trees, they find it much more heahhful than before." Captain Butler, a gallant pioneer of the neAv world, and at one time governor of Bermuda, on his return to England from Vir- ginia in the year 1624, presented to Charles I. a pamphlet" entitled, " TMe unmasked face of our colons/ in Virginia as it was in the winter 1622." In this work he draws a lamentable picture of the struggles of the infant colony, and asserts "that the English plantations are gerierally seated on marshes, lakes, and infectious bogs, which have subjected the planters to the ♦ In the reply of Goveraor Berkeley to the enquiries of the Lords Commissioners of Foreign Planlalions, m 1671, he states " that .all new plantatvmf. are for an a°-e or two unhealthy, until they are thoroughly cleared of wood." 2 Hen. Stat, at Large 515 OF VIRGINIA. 59 inconvenisncos and diseases prevalent in the most unlieaUhy parts of Eng- land." This pamphlet excited much hostility against the Virginian Com- pany, which was artfully fermented by Charles I. who was thtn secretly planning the ruin of that noble and patriotic association. Some of the members of the companj^ who had been in Vircfinii united in an address to the public, in which they state "that they had found the air of Virginia to be as wholesome and the soil for the most part as fertile as in any part of England." The House of Burgesses in a curious memorial of resentment, ill humor, and personal sarcasm, pronounced the charges of Capt. Butler to bo false and slanderous, and informed the king "that no bogs have been seen here, by any that have lived here twice as many years as Capt. Butler did weeks in the country — the places which he so miscalls being the richest parts of the earth, if we had a sufficient force to clear their woods and to give the fresh springs which pass through them a free passage. The soil is gen- erally rich and restores our trust with abundance. The air is sweet and the clime healthful, all circumstances considered, to men of sound bodies and good government." In 1624 the Virginian Company in petitioning parliament for encour- agement and protection, earnestly recommended the colony "for that tem- perature of climate which agreed well with the English." Smith often makes similar comparisons, and it is evident from the writings of our ear- liest historians, that the climate of Virginia differed but little from that of England. The immense mass of vegetation which overshadowed the coun- try, filled it with fogs and vapors, assimilating it to that of England, and lendering it extremely cold in its winters, and tardy in its summers. It was less affected by the standard temperature of the sea than England, and was marked with more striking vicissitudes. The cold winter of 1607, which was felt throughout all Europe* was, in the language of Smith, found "as extreame in Virginia." There were also many unseasonable years, and others singularly propitious to the agriculture of the country. The year 1610 was long recollected by the epithet of the starving time, while in the year 1619 two crops of rare-rips corn were made. Among many of the acts of the House of Burgesses regulating the trade of the country, Ave find one which prohibits the exportation of Indian com "on account of the un- seasonableness of the last two summers." As the country was gradually cleared of its forests and undergrowth, the climate became dry, temperate, and warm. The act of the House of Bur- gesses of 170.5, which directed the capitolto be built at Williamsburg, re- cites, "that this place hath been found by constant experience to be healthy and agreeable to the constitutions of this his majesty's colon)'- and domin- ion, having the natural advantages of a serene and temperate air, and dry and champaign land." A correspondent to the Royal Philosophical Socie- ty, who wrote an account of Virginia about this period, says "that the win- ters are dry and clear — the spring is earlier than that of England. Snow falls in great quantities, but seldom lies above a day or two, and the frosts, though quick and sharpe, seldom last long. July and xVugust are sultry hot. while September is noted for prodigious showers of ram. _ The north and N. W. winds are either very sharp and piercing, or boisterous and stormy, and the S. E. and south hazy and sultry." ♦ In this year at Paris the beard of Henr\' IV, ^^as frozen in bed cum rcgina. Sul- Ij's Mem. Vol. IV. 262. 60 GENERAL DESCRIPTION From the want of accurate observations, and those careful collections of meteorological facts which elucidate the character of all climates, our spe- culations on that of Virginia must be necessarily vague and indefinite, and for the nicer shades of its changes, we are forced to substitute the broader features of its outline. Our climate is uniform only in its sudden vicissi- tudes. Its consistency is impaired by many causes, which have produced a difference of temperature dependant on the deeply marked geographical distinctions of our sea board, tide water, valley, and mountainous regions. My observations have been principally confined to that intermediate country, between the Chesapeake and the South West Mountains, on the low and moist lands of the Matapony, in latitude north 38° 6', and about seventy miles south of Washington City. While I am forced in my examination of the temperature of other parts of the state, to rely on statements often in- accurate in their conception and irrelevant in their details. Thestandard temperature of every country is regulated by that of the le- vel of the ocean. According to the researches of Professor Leslie, the mean temperature at the level of the sea, in our latitude, is between 67° and 71°, which gradually diminishes from that level, until it reaches the point of perpetual congelation. Pure air is not heated by the sun's rays which pass through it. The solar rays must be stopped by the earth, col- lected and reflected before any heat can be given to the atmosphere. In tak- ing a standard, we assume the sea, which affords a fairer criterion of uni- form temperature, than the mean heat of springs and wells. Neither does the sea retain the extreme of heat or cold which Ave find in the earth. A eold wind blowing over this volume of salt water, necessarily cools its sur- face, which from its increase of specific gravity, sinks and gives place to an inferior warmer wave. The action of the wind in rippling the surface of the water, and the influence of tide and currents conspire in bringing the Avarmer water to the level of the sea to mitigate the coldness of the wind; this action continues till the whole water is so far cooled that it be- comes susceptible of frost. When frozen it is no longer warmed from the inferior water, but blows on with increased rigor. A Avarm wind takes a portion of cold as it passes over the surface of the sea, and becomes reduced to the mean temperature ot that body. The sea breeze so prevalent in Eas- tern Virginia is cool, as much from the standard heat of the ocean, as from its rapidity of motion. It is cooler in Virginia than in the West Indies, and often since the opening of the country, spreads its elastic freshness to the foot of the South West Mountains. There is a sensible and striking difference between the temperature of Eastern and Western Virginia, The former from its vicinity to the sea coast, becomes tempered into more gen- tleness; Avhile its earlier A-egetation shoM's the greater poAA^er of its soil to retain heat. In the latter the Avinters arc longer and more severe, yet the farmer may there admire the Avisdom of that providence, Avhich in increas- ing the rigor of the frost, melloAVS and crumbles the land for the purposes of agriculture, Avhile the light soils of the east require no such agency. In the course of five yeart<, from 1772 to 1777, Mr, .Tefierson made many observations on the temperature at Williamsburg, and having reduced them to an average for each month in the year, lie has given us the results of the greatest daily heat of the several seasons.* I have before me a series of careful observations compiled by that accurate thinker, and accomplished * Notes on Vii'gininj Query 7. UF VIRGINIA. 61 scholar, the late David Watson, (of Louisa county,) in a similar period of five years, from 1823 to 1828. His residence was near the South West mountains, and in a country comparatively thickly covered with wood. The result of his ohservations and those of Mr. Jefferson, niakino- a distance ia time of r>2 years, and of soutlieru latiuide in favor uf Williamsburg, is here submitted ; MR. JEFFERSON 3. MU. WATSO? * s. January, 38^" to 44° .January, 36 to 44 February, 41 to 47^ February, 35 to 40 March, 48 to 54i March, " 44 to 40 April, 50 to 62i April, 56 to GO May, G3 to 70^ May, 61 to 60 June, 7 U to 78| June, 71 to 79 July, 77 to 82. \ July, 80 to 84 August, 761 to 81 August, 81 to 84 September, 601 to 74:1 September, 74 to 77 October, 61i to 66,1 Oetober, 50 to 63 November, 47^ to 531 November, 46 to 54 December, 43 to 48-5 December, 40 to 44 The coolest and warmest parts of the day were separately added, and an average of the greatest cold and heat of that day was formed. From the averages of every day in the month, a general average for the whole month was deduced. In following this mode of analysis, there are many slight features of discrepancy between the statements of Mr. Jefferson^ and Mi\ Watson, which considerably impair the correctness of the comparison. Mr. AVatson's thermometer was' suspended in a passage, far removed from the action of fire, in a house constructed of wood; and the calculation of his table is based on observations made between the hours of 10 A. M. and 3 P. M. Mr. Jefferson is silent as to the situaUmi of his thermometer, while it appears that he has reckoned from the hours of 8 A. M. to 4 P. M. The hottest period of these five years, observed by Mr. Watson, was in July, 182.5, Avhen tlie thermometer'on several days rose above 90°, and the hottest month was in August, 1828. The coldest period was during the month of January, 1827, and the warmest winter was in 1828-29. My own observations made during a period of four years, from 1829 to 1834, cannot be calculated for an average temperature. Many days and even months from my absence from home, Avere necessarily unnoticed. Those periods which are recorded differ but little in their particular and daily results, from those of Mr. Watson; while I have noticed his singular omission — the prevalence of the winds, and the "fantastic tricks" \yith which our climate so playfully disports. From my observations, I am induced to place the nican temperature of our climate at 55°; thus varying according to natural and artificial causes several degrees from the standard tempera- ture of the sea. The year 1831 was characterised by many vicissitudes of heat and cold. On the "27th February the mercury sunk to 7°, while in July and August it frequently rose to 86° and 94°. ' The ensuing winters of 1831 and 1832 Avereunconimonly rigorous, snow fell in great quantities, and in many places continued on the £rround till the 4th of March. Early frost did much inju- ry to vegetation, while the cold was but slightly removed from the earth 62 GENERAL DESCRIPTION until late in the ensuing- summer. The spring of 1834 was attended by- severe frosts, which resembled in their destructive character, those which had rendered the year 1816 proverbial. They committed great devastations in April, and on the 15th, 16th, and 17th of May, the Indian corn on our low lands, and the leaves of the garden and forest trees were scathed and blighted to a degree precluding, in many cases, all hope of restoration. In Virginia the transitions from heat to cold are sudden, and sometimes to very extreme degrees; often in the day time the mercury will stand at 94° or 81°, and will fall in the course of a kw hours to 60° and 50°. Mr. Jefferson informs us that the mercury has been known to descend from 92° to 47° in thirteen hours. I have frequently noted vicissitudes of a similar kind, and when the change is accompanied by a S. E. wind and rain, the air becomes cold, raw and disagreeable. We have few summers in which a fire is not often required. On the 1st of May, 1827, there was a light fall of snow at Gloucester Court House,* while it is not uncommon to see slight frosts in August. In our winter the cold weather, though severe, is short, and the frequent snows of the night are generally removed before the sunset of the ensuing day. Water in ponds is slowly congealed, and rare- ly makes ice thick enough for preservation, until it has been chilled by a fall of snow — again, its production is very rapid; rivers half of a mile' in breadth, will be frozen over in the course of one night, sufficiently firm to bear men and horses. f In the month of January, 1827, many of those short yet Avide salt streams, Avhich wash the shores of Gloucester county, were frozen to the extent of thirty or forty feet from the land. This rigo- rous cold is rarely of much duration. Sustained, and principally created by north and northeastern winds, it quickly yields to the shifting of the wind to any other point. Some of our winters are so temperate and mild, that the cattle can find a support in the woods. Vegetation has been ob- served in all the winter months, and in the latter part of December diminu- tive pears, peaches and apples, fully ripened, have been gathered from the trees. A rose, exposed in an open garden, bloomed throughout the whole winter of '28 and '29. In this winter the peach tree bloomed in the latter part of January, and produced in its regular season a plentiful crop of fruit. Many of our coldest days are succeeded by gentle and moderate evenings- our severest cold is about the latter part of January, generally commencino- after a hard rain, and continuing on an average about six days, thus realis- ing the truth of that old A'irginian proverb, "that as the day lengthens the cold strengthens; a rapid thaw, often accompanied with rain and cast winds, then takes place, while warm days and moderate nights soon reduce its se- verity, and open the way for the premature approach of spring. "Halfe of March" is no longer Avinter. Spring has already scattered her viA'id mantle o'er the scene, Avhile the AA'hole air is redolent of life and fragrance. Yet even its brightness is momentary — an unexpected frost often shoAvs that the frown of Avinter still lingers on the land, and Ave too frequently find a practical illustration of Shakspeare's metaphor, " The tyrannous breathings of the north, Checks all our buds from"bloA\-ina:." *.P\- ^^^^ ^" ^^^ ^^^^y on t'le climate of Pennsylvania, mentions a fall of snoAv at Philadelphia on the night between the 4th and 5th jNlnv. 1774. • \^A ^5'^''^°" ^^^^^ ^'^ ^^^^ "^ *~~'^ ^'o''^ ^iv^'' "w-as 'frozen over at York tOAvn, and in 1780, Chesapeake bay was solid from its head to the mouth of the Potomac The cold Avinters of 1784 and 1814 still live in the recollections of tradition. OF VlRGl.MA. 69 It is now stormy, variable and cold; now calm, gentle and warm, and now dry, peaceful, and serene. Until the middle of May our climate presents one incessant tumult of rain and drought, frost and heat; yet a spring uni- formly cold is far more favorable to our agriculture, than its usual uncertain temperature for suppressing vegetation, it protects it from the blighting frosts o( March and April. Often during the spring months the weather is ex- cessively damp, cloudy and hazy. In Marcli, 1833, the sun was obscured for more than thirteen days, while every thing was chilled into gloomy mel- ancholy. The vegetation of this season aflbrds ns a criterion of the heat of the spring, which may be received in aid of the more accurate results derived from the thermometer. In the course of four years I have found these ave* rage periods of time suststained by careful observations: Peach blooms from March 7 to March 14. Apple blooms from March 20 to March 29. Cherry blooms from March 13 to March 17. Plum blooms from March 26 to March 31. Strawberry blooms from March 24 to March 31.* About the latter part of May our summer has commenced : the air be- comes dry, warm and elastic, and the verdure of the forest assumes a more deepened hue of vivid green. The superabundant moisture of the earth acquired during the winter, is now thoroughly evaporated, and the tempera- ture of the season in dispelling lassitude, invigorates into activity. Sum- mer burns on with a bright and glowing splendor, alternately relieved by gentle showers and refreshing breezes. Occasional droughts of many weeks in duration, parch the luxuriance of the vegetation — they are succeeded by copious and heavy showers of rain, which quickly restore the Avithered prospect. The approach of autumn is marked by heavy fogs in the morn- ing and evening, which arc soon dispelled, leaving that calm and serene temperature, Avhich gives to this season all the beauty of tranquil repose. In every season there is a large and constant exhalation from the earth in the shape of vapor, its volume being proportioned to the heat of the day. We do not often observe this exhalation when the heat of the atmosphere difTersf in a small degree from that of the earth; when the temperature of the aif is considerably lower, this A-apor so soon as it has arisen is deprived of * part of its heat, while its watery particles are more closely attracted inta union and become visible in the shape of fog. In the autumn of Virginia', the heat of the day is sufficient to produce a large ascent of vapor. LJndis- turbed by currents of wind it easily condenses, and is thickened by calm and' chilling nights into a heavy mist, Avhich in the guise of a cloud finds its resting place on the earth. Autumn of all other seasons, is least liable to* sudden and extreme vicissitudes. The approach of winter is alike gradual and uniform, and though we have frequent light snows, the mildness of au-- tumn is rarely wasted away until late in December. In reasoning from the researches of philosophy, we are taught to place but little reliance on the uncertain narratives of tradition ; they, however, with a slow yet steady advance, acquire respect, and often mould theory into fact, and fashion opinion into fixed principles. The common belief that our » At the residence of R. G. Esq. near the Natural Bridge in the valley of Virginia,- these fruit trees in the year 1834, bloomed at the following periods: Peach April I. I Phim April 1. Apple March 30. 1 Strawberry April 15. 64 GENERAL DESClUPTlOiN climate has been changed into a milder temperature, has taken most of its certainty from the statements of our old people, who are uniformly consist- ent in this particular. The bloom of the orchard trees formerly restrained by a protracted winter from premature expansion, rarely failed arriving at the maturity oC fiuit ; the earth remained covered with snow for many weeks, and the winter did not, as now, dally with the wantonness of spring. The marshes, uncleared lands, ponds and lakes, which conspired to absorb the heat of the earth,* have been almost obliterated or greatly reduced. There is a lesser quantity of snow, and more of rain, while the frecpiency of violent storms of wind in the spring and summer, distinctly prove the g^reat mass of our local heat, and accumulated electricity. The winds of Virginia are singularly fickle and capricious, possesifeing neither the uniformity or regularity of those which blow at the tropics. Our prevailing wind is the south Avest, which assumes, alternately, gentle and severe characteristics. The frequency of southwestern winds above the latitudes of the trades, flows as a neces.sary consequence, from the continu- ■tmce and direction of the vast currents of air. It moves unconfined and unresisted over the sea, until it reaches that imbroken range of mountains, Avhich towers from one extremity of our continent to the other. It strikes against them, and from its elasticity rebounds Avith great velocity, in a direc- tion opposed to the forcing powers of the trades, taking in its oblique move- ment all those features Avhich mark our southwestern wind. During the spring the N. E. is the most common Avind. The huge mass- es of snoAV and ice at the north pole, are gradually melted by the heat of fche sun ; great quantities of A^apor during this time are exhaled and remain suspended, augmenting both the Aveight and bulk of the atmosphere. That wonderful and mysterious agent, clcciricii]/, in dispelling the vapor and converting it into elastic air,t gi\^es an iinpetus to that Avind AA-hich issuing from the poles, takes a northeastern direction as it advances southerly, (its diurnal motion being less than that of the earth,) and falls surcharged Avith snoAv and rain on every portion of our country. Mr. Jefferson made 3G98 obserA^ations on the A-arious points from AA'hich -our Avinds bleAv, noting their changes two or three times in each day. The prevalence of the S. W. Avinds, over those from other quarters is thus nu- merically stated by him: South West, 926. North, 409. North, 611. West, 351. North East, 548. South East, 223. East, 521. South, 109. He has also made a comparatiA-e vioAv of the difference bctAA^een the Avinds at Monticello and Williamsburg. He has reduced nine months' observa- tions at Monticello, to four principal points, being perpendicular to, or par- allel Avith, our coasts, mountains, and rivers, viz: the N. E., S. E., S. W., and N. W. He has also reduced an equal mnnber of observations, 421, from his table above, taking them proportionally from every point. ♦This principle is apparent from the fact that marshy countries are ahvays cold; the decrease of temperature after a violent rain, also proves its truth. An unusual evaporation carries off the heat of the earth, and may Ave not reasonably expect a cold ■winter after a Avet summer? + Through a glass tube filled Avith water, Dr. Franklin passed an electric shock, the tube Avas shattered 'to pieces, and the Avater disappeared; a similar experiment was tried with a tube filled Avilh ink on a sheet of Avhite paper, the same efl'ects Avere pro- duced, th* paper being neither stained nor discolored. OF VIRGINIA. 65 Mv own observations made many times in each day, amount to 749, with- out reducing them in the proportionate manner of Mr. Jefferson. I have submitted them under the points and heads which he has adopted: N. E. s. E. s. w. N. w. Total Williamsburg, 127 61 132 101 421 MoNTicELLO, 32 91 126 172 42i Braynefield, 204 130 247 168 749 In an average of two years, I have found our Avinds thus yearly prevail- ing; the dominant wind of each day being only reckoned, and not the usual vicissitudes of local breezes, or squalls. Days. South "West, 122 North West, 89 North East, 61 East, 30 Days. North, 26 South, 21 West, 12 Sooith East, 4 63 302 302 days 365 A curious phenomenon is sometimes witnessed during a severe wind from the S. W. ; a thin vapor or scud is seen moving with great velocity below the clouds, from the N. E., there being two currents of air of directly contrary courses in active motion at the same time. In the early part of the spring and autumn, in dry seasons, about sunset it is commonto meet with currents of warm air, small in their extent yet ex- tremely rapid in their movements; they are considerably above the heat of the human body, and are wayward and eccentric, both in their duration and extent. Their existence has given rise to much . - King- and Q,ue9n, King George, King William, - Lancaster, - - Loudon, - - - Louisa, - - Lunenburg, - - Madison, - - Mathews, - - Buckingham, Campbell, - - Pop ulation. 20,240 24,027 11,690 21,901 5,053 10,521 9,204 26,0SG 8,221 14,911 10,608 10,369: 7,117 28,034; 16,253j 28,797| 7,100, 10,517; 3,838 11,644 6,397 9,812 4,801 21,939 16,151, 11,957 9,236 • 7,664 18,351 20,350 M'ESTERX Counties. Pojndation. Alleghany, 2,816 Augusta,'- 19,926 Bath, 4,002 Berkeley, 10,518 Botetourt, 16,354 Brooke, 7,041 Cabell, 5,884 Frederick, 25,046 Giles, Grayson, Greenbrier, Harrison, Hampshire, Hardy, 5,274 7,675 9,006 14,722 11,279 6,798 Jefferson, 12,927 Kanawha, 9,320 Lee, 6,461 \Cou/itles. Population. Caroline, 17,700 [Charles City, 5,500 ■Charlotte, 15,252 Chesterfield, ... - 18,637 iMeclenburg, 20,477 ■Middlesex, 4,122 Nansemond, 11,784 Nelson, 11,254 New Kent, 6,458 Norfolk, 24,806 Northampton, 8,641 Northumberland, - - - - 7,953 Nottoway, 10,130 Orange, 14,637 Patrick, 7,395 Pittsylvania, 26,034 Powhatan, 8,517 Prince Edward, - - - - 14,107 Prince George, 8,367 Prince William, - - - - 9,330 Prince Anne, 9,102 Richmond, 6,055 Southampton, .... 16,074 Spottsylvania, - - - - 15,134 Stafford, 9,362 Surry, 7,109 Sussex, - - - . . . 12,720 Warwick, 1,570 Westmoreland, 8,396 York, 5,354 DISTRICT. Coiinties. Population- Lev/is, 6,241 Logan, 3,680 Monongalia, 14,056 Mason, 6,534 Monroe, 7,798 Montgomery, 12,306 Morgan, -".-•--- 2,694 Nicholas, 3,346 Ohio, 15,584 Page, (formerly E. Shenandoah) 8,327 Pendleton, 6,271 Pocahontas, 2,542 Preston, 5,144 Randolph, 5,000 Rockbridge, -.-... 14,244 Rockingham, 20,683 Russell, 6,714 63 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Counties. Population. Scott, 5,724 Shenandoah, 11,423 Tazewell, ....-- 5,749 Tyler, 4,104 Counties. Washington, Wood, - ■ Wythe, - - Population. - - 15,614 - - 6,429 - - 12,163 Under 5 years of age, From 5 to 1 a Total population of Eastern Virginia, 832,980; Western Va. 378,425. Of the preceding were white persons. Males. Females. 65,793 62,411 51,805 49,964 43,287 41,936 36,947 40,479 60,911 62,044 36,539 36,45G 23,381 23,750 15,261 15,447 8,971 8,765 3,674 3,857 1,108 1,098 184 158 26 98 to 5 to 20 to 30 10 15 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 to 1 00 1 00 and upwards to to to to to to 40 50 60 70 80 90 Total, Of the colored population, were Male. Under 10 years of age, 8,236 From 10 to 24, 6,126 " 24 to 36, 3,546 " 36 to 55, 2,721 55 to 100, 1,731 " 100 and upwards 27 Total, 347,887 Free. Female. 8,002 7,031 4,501 3,379 2,024 24 346,383 Slaves. Male. 84,000 68,917 43,189 30,683 12,155 133 239,077 Slaves. 469,757 514,280 20,124 345,796 Fan ale. 83,270 66,921 40,927 27,206 12,275 144 230,680 Total. 1,211,375 22,387 24,961 RECAriTULATION. Whites. Free Colored. 694,270 47,343 Increase of population : In 1800 the white males numbered, Free colored. Slaves, Increase in thirty years, Or thirty-seven and a half per cent. In the same period, the free whites increased 180,020, or 35 per cent.; the free colored persons 27,224, or 135 per cent.; and the slaves, 123,961, or 36 percent. For the ten years preceding the census of 1830, the rate of increase of the whole population diminished considerably, and the rela- tive increase of the several classes varied from the foregoing results. On the whole population, th^ rate was reduced from 37^ to 13^ per cent.; on 880,200 331,175 OF VIRGINIA. 69 the free wliite, from 35 to \'> per cent.; on the free colored, from 135 to 28^ per cent.; and on the slaves from 36 to 10^ percent. It is to be observed, however, that, while the black population of the whole state has been dimin- ishingf, Avhen compared with the white, the reverse is true in respect to Eas- tern Virginia, which is peculiarly the slave region; for, while, in 1790, there was in that district a majority of 25,000 whites, the slave and free colored population outnumbered them at every successive census, iintil, in 1830, the excess was upwards of 81,000. The facts thus exhibited show that Western Virginia, which contains comparatively few slaves, has rapidly increased its white population in the last ten years, the rate of increase amounting to 25 per cent,; while, on the eastern side of the mountains, the increase of the whites, in the same period, did not exceed 7^ per cent. The greater multiplication of blacks in Eastern Virginia, notwithstanding con- stant deportation to the southern and southwestern states, may be partly as- cribed to the mild treatment which they generally receive from their own- ers. On the other hand, the evil effects of slavery, and the policy of adopt- ing some scheme for gradual abolition, are topics which have been freely and earnestly discussed, and have already arrayed the Virginians into two powerful parties. The slow progress of the white population, compared with some of the other states, when so many propitious causes exist for its advancement, has been urged as a prominent objection to slavery. Indeed, the march of its aggregate population has fallen far short of the predictions of former times. Mr. Jefferson, in his Notes, which were written in 1782, estimated that the then existing stock, unaided by foreign emigration, Avould be multiplied to 2,270,000 by the year 1835, exceeding, by upwards of a million, the result of the last census. That the increase of numbers has been restrained by powerful checks seems reasonable; but to point out their true character and operation, belongs rather to the department of moral and political philosophy. This state is now divided into one hundred and eleven counties; Avhereof sixty-six are on the eastern side, and forty-five on the Avestern side of the Blue Ridge mountains. Six new counties having been added since the tak- ing of the last census, and revision of the constitution; they were erected by act of Assembly 1831-2, viz: — Page county, formed out of parts of Shenandoah and Rockingham — Rappahannock, formed out of a part of Culpeper county — Smj^h, formed out of Washington and Wythe — Floyd, from a part of Montgomery — Jackson, out of part of Mason, Kanawha and Wood — and Fayette, formed out of parts of Greenbrier, Nicholas, and Ka- nawha counties. GOVERNMENT AND LAWS. Constitution'. — The first constitution of this state was formed and adopt- ed in 177G, and continued in operation until October, 1829, when a conven- tion met at Richmond to alter and amend it, or frame a new one: on the 14th of January, 1830, the present constitution was adopted by a vote of 55 to 40. The amended constitution on being submitted to the legal voters of the state was ratified by a majority of 10,492 votes, as appears by the fol- lowing statement: 70 GENERAL DESCRIPTION For. Against. Transalleghany District, 2,123 11,289 Valley 3,842 2,097 Middle " 12,417 1,086 Tide-Water 7,673 1,091 Total, 26,0;: 15,563 Legislature. — The first election of members of the House of Delegates, and Senate, under the amended constitution, took place on the several court days in the month of October, 1830, in the different counties and boroughs entitled to representation : and the first General Assembly convened at Richmond on the first Monday in December, 1831. By this constitution the legislative power is vested in a Senate and a House of Delegates, which are together styled the General Assembly of Virginia. The House of Delegates consists of 134 members chosen an- nually; — 31 from the Trans-Alleghany district; — 25 from the Valley dis- trict; — 42 from the Middle district; — and 36 from the Tidewater district. The Senate consists of 32 members; — 13 from the counties west of the Blue Ridge; — and 19 from the country east of that mountain. The Sena- tors are elected for four years, and the scats of one-fourth are vacated each year. — In all elections to any office or place of triist, honor, or emolument; the votes are given viva voce. — A reapportionment in both houJ^o, ±^ lOtake place every ten years, commencing in 1841 ; until which time there is to be no change in the number of delegates and senators from the several divi- sions; and after 1841 the number of delegates is never to exceed 150, or that of senators 36. Executive. — The executive power is vested in a Governor elected by the joint vote of the two houses of the General Assembly. He holds it three years, commencing the 31st of March after his election, or on such other day as may be from time to time prescribed bylaw; and he is ineligi- ble for the three years next after the expiration of his term of office. There is a Council of State, consisting of three members, elected for three years by the joint vote of the two houses; the seat of one being A^acated annually. The senior counsellor is Lieutenant Governor. The present executive officers are L. W. Tazewell, Governor, Daniel A. Wilson, Lieut. Goi^ernor, ) Wyndham Robertson, > CouncU. Peter V. Daniel, ) Lawson Burfoot, Treasurer of State, James E. Heath, Auditor, James Brown, Jr., Second Auditor, William Selden, Register of the Land OJJicc. Judiciary. — The Judges of the Supreme Court of Appeals, and of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, are elected by joint vote of both houses of the General Assembly, and hold their offices during good behavior, or until removed by a concurrent vote of both houses; but two- thirds of the members present must concur in such vote, and the cause of removal be entered on the journals of each house. OF VIRGINIA. 71 The present Court of Appkals consists of Henry bt. (.Teorge 1 uckcr, President, o 720 Francis T. Brooke, Judge, 'Z/iQQ William H. Cabell, do* 2'500 Wm. Brockenbrouyh, do. 2500 Dabney Carr, do, 2*500 The Judges are entitled to receive, in addition to their salaries, 25 cents a mile for necessary travel. The Court of Appeals holds two sessions annu- ally; one at Lewisburg, Greenbrier county, for the counties lying west of the Blue Ridge, commencing on the 1st Monday in July, and conti- nuing 90 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched; the other at Richmond, for the counties lying cast of the Blue Ridge, commenc- ing at such times as the court may, from time to time, appoint,°and continu- ing 160 days, unless the business shall be sooner despatched. Geiural Couri.— The state is divided into 10 districts, and each district into two circuits, and a Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery is held twice every year in each county and corporation; the courts siuing until the business is despatched. There are 20 Judges, having each a salary of $1,500, and their names, with the- i^.ti.xocr of their respective circuits, areas follows: 1. Richard F. Baker, 8. William Daniel, 15. Benjamin Estill, 2. John F. May, 9. William Leigh, 16. James E. Brown, 3. Abel P. Upshur, 10. Fleming Saunders, 17. Allen 7\aylor, 4. William Brown, 11. Richard H. Field, 18. Edward D. Duncan, 5. J. T. Lomax, 12. Lucas P. Thompson, 19. Lewis Summers, 6. John Scott, 13. Richard E. Parker, 20. Joseph L. Fry. 7. John B. Clopton, 14. Daniel Smith, Counlij Courts. — Justices of the Peace who constitute these Courts are elected by the Governor, upon nomination of the existing County Courts. Four Justices constitute a Court for the trial of civil, and five for criminal causes. Their civil jurisdiction in law and equity is concurrent with that of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery in cases of trover* or detinue, and others involving greater value than $50; and beloAV that amount but over $20, it is exclusive. Their criminal jurisdiction is con- current with that of the same Court in petit larceny, and all other offences of free persons not exceeding the grade of misdemeanors, and in the case of slaves exclusive as to all offences. The Justices receive no compensa- tion ; but the lucrative office of Sheriff is conferred upon one of their body, generally the eldest Justice, and for two successive years, when he gives way to the next oldest in commission, &c. These Courts are established by the Constitution, but their jurisdiction, is settled by law. Right of Suffrage is extended to every white male citizen of the commonwealth, resident therein, aged 21 years and upwards; who Avas qualified to exercise the right under the former constitution and laws; — or who own a freehold of the value of $25 ; — or who has a joint interest worth $25, in a freehold; — or who has a reversion, or vested remainder in fee expectant on an estate for life or years; of which lie shall have been pos- sessed for six.months, unless obtained by descent, devise, or marriage; — or who shall own and be in occupation of a leasehold estate, recorded two 72 GENERAL DESCRIPTION months before he offers to vote, of an annual value of $20, and original du- ration of at least 5 years ; — or who has been housekeeper or head of a family for 12 months, and been assessed with, and has paid taxes. But paupers, persons of unsound mind, non-commissioned olRcers, sol- diers, seamen and marines cTlhe U. States, and persons convicted of infa- mous offences cannot vote. As connected with this subject Ave insert here the Civil List of Vir- ginia; — prepared in compliance Avith a resolution of the House of Dele- gates of the 8th of March, 1833. CIVIL LIST, Shewing the natitre, and extent of the duties of each officer of the Govern- ment and their Salaries. Grovernor, salary $3333 33. — The governor is ex-officio president of the literary fund, the board of public works, the James river company, and the northwestern turnpike company, for which several services he receives no additional compensation. Lieutenant Governor, $1000; two Councillors, $1000 each.— The lieu- tenant-governor is not now a director of either of these boards. In case of the death or resignation of the governor, he is enthled to the chief magis- trate's salary in lieu of his own. Neither the lieutenant-governor, nor the other members of the council, have any perquisites of office. Secretary of the CommonweaUh, $1620 00; Assistant Clerk, $1000 00; Copying Clerk, $200 00. — The secretary or clerk of the executive depart- ment is also keeper of the seals and librarian, by virtue of his office. He is entitled to a fee of $1 67 upon each testimonial granted from the execu- tive department, and to commissions, at the discretion of the joint library committee, upon sales or exchanges of books belonging to the library fund. These perquisites, it is understood, are very inconsiderable. Neither the assistant nor copying clerk is entitled to any other compensation besides his salary. Clerk of the Council, $500 00: — Keeps the journal of the council, and performs various other duties, for which he has no perquisites. Door-Keeper to the Council, $500 00. — The door-keeper to the council is also keeper of the capitol keys, but is entitled to no compensation besides his regular salary. The incidental expenses of the executive depart- ment during the past fiscal year, amounted to $1,193 61, including fuel, stationery and postage. President of the Court of Appeals, $2750 00; Four Jiidges of the Court of Appeals, $2,500 each. — The president and judges are entitled, ex- clusive of their salaries, to twenty cents per mile for travelling to and from the respective courts they are required to attend. Clerk Eastern Court, $1000 00; Clerk Western Court, $1000 00.— This allowance of $1,000 to each of the clerks of the court of appeals, is the maximum fixed by law, but the judges may in their discretion reduce it. The clerks arc entitled to their regular fees from individuals, but to no other compensation from the state. The judges are authorized to appoint a crier and tipstaff to each of the courts held at Richmond and Lewisburg, and to fix their compensation. The crier at Richmond received, during the last fiscal year, $729, and the tipstaff, $608 3 1 ; and the incidental expenses OF VIRGINIA. 73 ffT fuel, stationery, &c. amounted, in the same period, to 6)93. The con- tinf^ent expenses at Lewisburg, owing to the short terms of the court, aro very inconsiderable. Twenty Judges of the Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery, nineteen at $1,500, and one at $1,800. — The judge of the superior court of Henrico receives $1,800 annual salary. The other judges, $1,500 each; and all arc entitled to 15 cents per mile for travelling through their circuits and to the general court. Clerk of^the General Court, $500 00.— The fees of the clerk of the general court are very inconsiderable. Attorney Superior Court Henrico, $300 00; Clerk Superior Court Hen- rico, $100 00. — An act concerning the superior court of Henrico, passed 29th March, 1823, fixes the compensation of the attorney and clerk of that court, and makes them, in effect, salaried officers. The clerk is moreover entitled to his fees for services rendered thecommonweaUh, which will pro- bably average about $40 per annum. Attorney General, $1000 00. — The attorney general is entitled to fees when recovered frem defendants; but owing to the diminished number of judgments against public debtors, his fees have not averaged more than $40 per annum for the last two years. Treasurer, $2000 00. — The treasurer is ex-officio a director of the board of public works, the Jam.es river company, the literary fund, and the north- western turnpike company. He is moreover, by virtue of his office, a di- rector of the Virginia bank, and treasurer of the Cincinnati fund, which is in his possession. He has no perquisites of office. First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk of the treasurer has charge of the books in which the accounts of the commonwealth are kept, distinguished from those which relate to speciffic funds, the latter being confided to the second clerk. Both, however, perform indiscriminately the current duties of the office. The incidental expenses Of the treasury office during the last fiscal year, embracing fuel, stationery, sweeper, &c. amounted to $152 38. Auditor of Public Accounts, $2000 00. — The a^iditor is ex-ofiicio a di- rector of the James river company', the board of public Avorks, the literary fund, and the northwestern turnpike company. He is also, in conjunction with the governor, lieutenant-governor, and second auditor, one of the com- missioners for transporting the free people of color. He has no perquisites nor extra compensation, except a fee of 50 cents for each redemption of de- linquent land. The late laws on that subject have reduced these fees to an average of thirty or forty dollars per annum. His general duties are to audit all claims against the commonwealth, and to collect and disburse the public revenue. Clerk of Accounts, $1400 00. — The clerk of accounts has in his pecu- liar charge the public books of account, prepares all the revenue statements and the lists of balances, and performs a variety of duties connected with his department. First Clerk, $900 00. — The first clerk represents the auditor in his ab- sence, and during such time, is entitled to extra compensation at the rate of $166 67 per annum. He has special charge of the vouchers upon Avhich warrants are issued, assists the auditor in the revenue settlements, and per- forms various other duties. Second Clerk, $750 00; Third Clerk, $600 00.— The second clerk has charge of the delinquent land lists, and in common with the third clerk, 10 74 GENERAL DESCRIPTION performs a variety of duties appertaining to the current business, such as examining and correcting commmissioners' books, insolvents in the revenue, and militia fines, &c. &:c. The auditor is also authorized to employ an ex- tra clerk, in his discretion, at the rate of $50 per month, growing out of the accumulated labors of the office from revolutionary claims, &c. The incidental expenses of the ofiice in the last fiscal year, including stationery, fuel, and sweeper, and excluding postage, amounted to $280 75. The post- age alone amounted to $1,050. Second Auditor, $1800 00. — The second auditor is an ex-officio director of the James river company, board of public works, literary fund, and north- western turnpike company, and audits all the accounts appertaining thereto. He is moreover superintendent of the literary fund, and clerk to the board of directors. He is also ex-officio secretary to the board of public works, and one of the commissioners for removing free people of color. He is entitled to no extra compensation. First Clerk, $900 00; Second Clerk, $600 00.— The first clerk repre- sents the second auditor in his absence, and when necessary, acts as clerk to the literary fund, and secretary to the board of public w'orks; keeps the books of the James river company and board of public works, and assists the second auditor in the current business. The second clerk keeps the books of the literary fund and northwestern turnpike company, and attends to other duties. The incidental expenses of the office, and of the several boards connected therewith, for the past fiscal year, embracing, fuel, statione- ry, sweeper, pay of messengers, and clerks of boards, postage, printing, and miscellaneous expenses, amounted to $1,172 04. Register of the Land Office, $1500 00. — The register's duties are prin- cipally defined in the general revised land law of 1st March, 1819. He has no perquisites, his fees of office being required to be paid into the trea- sury. First Clerk of the Land Office, $900 00.— The first clerk receives and examines surveys, &c. and issues grants, &c. Second Clerk, $600. — The second clerk is engaged principally in record- ing. The incidental expenses of the land office the past fiscal year, including- fuel, stationery, parchment for grants, and sweeper, amounted to $625 29. Public Printer, $2600 00.— $1,000 of the public printer's salary is paid quarterly. The residue annually, after the completion of the sessions acts. The salary is exclusive of extra printing. The amount paid during the last fiscal year for printing legislative documents, extra copies of the acts and journals of the library, &c. &c. amounted to $1,836 64, which is pro- bably about a fair annual average. Superintendent of the Penitentiary, $2000 00 ; First and Second Assist- ant Keepers $700 each; Third, Fourth, Firth, Sixth, and Seventh Assist- ant Keepers, $600 each. — Neither the keeper nor assistant keepers receive any extra compensation. The auditor is not informed as to the particular distribution of duties among the assistants. The 6th and 7th assistants were for the first time so denominated in the act of 8th March, 1833. They were previously called turnkey and delivery clerk. Clerk, $600 00. — The clerk keeps the accounts of the institution, and acts as clerk to the board of directors. He has no perquisites. Five Directors, at $150 each. — The directors are paid annually, at the rate of $3 per day, for each day's attendance: not to exceed $150. Surgeon to the Penitentiary and Public Guard, $900 00. — Attends the OF VIRGINIA. 75 sick convicts at the penitentiary and soldiers of the public guard, and is en- titled to no perquisites of office. General Agent or Store-Keeper to the Penitentiary. — The agent for sel- ling penitentiary manufactures is allowed a commission of seven per cen- tum upon sales, in lieu of salaries to himself and clerks. Adjutant General, $.500 00. — For the various laws respecting the adju- tant general, see 1 Rev. Code, pages 94. 95, 96 and 98, and Supplement, pages GO, G4, 81 and 84. Vaccine Agent, $500 00. — The allowance is paid semi-annually, on the order of the executive. The auditor is informed by the agent that there are numerous applications for vaccine matter. No perquisites of ofiice. Supcrintendant of the Westham Magazine, $150 00. — It is understood that no duties are nov/ required of this officer, the magazine not being used. Keeper of the Rolls and Clerk of the House of Delegates, $200 00. — The clerk of the house of delegates is ex-officio keeper of the rolls, and it is in the latter character, that he is entitled to the stated salary of $200 per annum. As clerk, his allowance Avas fixed at $150 per week, by the act of 1 6th February, 1822. Out of this weekly allowance, the clerk of the house of delegates employs an assistant in the office during the sessions of the legislature, and defrays the expense of enrolling and engrossing the acts. Besides his official duties during the session, he is required after the ad- journment of the legislature, to arrange and cause to be published, with marginal notes and indexes, the laws of that body. His perquisites consist in fees for certified copies of the acts of assembly; but it is understood that they amount to a very inconsiderable sum. The incidental expenses of the office of the clerk during the last fiscal year, including fuel, stationery for the house of delegates, binding journals, parchment, &c. amounted to $333 48.— Total amount of Civil List, $74,553 33. Though not strictly within the terms of the resolution of the house of delegates, it is perhaps required by its spirit, that the allowances to the officers of the general assembly, so far as they have been fixed by law, should be added. The speaker of the senate is entitled, under the act of IGth February, 1822, to $6 per day, mileage and ferriages. The speaker of the house of delegates, to $8 per day, mileage and ferriages. The clerk of the senate, to $75 per week. The sergeant at arms to the senate, to $30 per week. The sergeant of the house of delegates, to $28 per week, and fees for ar- rests. The clerks of each of the committees to the house of delegates, to $35 per week. The door keepers to both houses, each to $28 per week. The printer to the senate, to $500 for the session. The only clerks of com- mittees of the house of delegates, whose allowances were fixed by the act of IGth February, 1822, were those of propositions and grievances, elections and claims, courts of justice, and roads and navigation. Other clerks of committees have been occasionally appointed, and their wages paid by a special clause in the annual appropriation law. It may also be proper to add, that pursuant to the resolution of the gene- ral assembly of 21st February, 1833, the executive has employed an agent to examine certain revolutionary documents, with a salary of $1,200 per annum. LAWS. On the third of July. 1776, the convention whicb mf^t to mlnpt a ronstitu- 76 GENERAL DESCRIPTION tion for the state, having declared it independent, passed an ordinance de- claring that "The common law of England, ail statutes or acts of Parlia- ment made in aid thereof prior to the fourth year of the reign of King James the first, and which were of a general nature and not local to that kingdom, should be considered as in full force, until the same should be altered by the Legislature." After this the Legislature re-enacted by special acts all of the statutes of the British Parliament which they thought applicable and necessary ; and on the 27th December, 1792, declared that no statute or act of Parliament should have any force or authority Avithin this commonwealth, — saving all judicial and remedial writs which miglit have been sued out before that act. The common law, the constitution and statutes of Virginia, the constitu- tion of the United States and the laws and treaties made in pursuance thereof, constitute the whole law of Virginia. RELIGION. Although the bill of rights, in 1776, declared that all men were equally entitled to the free exercise of religion, according to the dictates of con- science, yet the first constitution contained no express provision on the sub- ject. The legislature, in 1785, passed an act for establishing religious free- dom, and subsequently repealed all laws which recognized the Protestant Episcopal Church as the legal establishment. The glebe lands, and other church property, were vested in the overseers of the poor, for charitable uses, reserving only to the living incumbents an estate for life, and exempt- ing the church buildings from confiscation. The new constitution of 1830 fully recognises absolute religious freedom as a part of the fundamental law. The Episcopal church, which, after the loss of its revenues, suffered almost total extinction in Virginia, has revived, in the last twent)^ years, by the voluntary support of its friends, and is now distinguished by numerous and wealthy members, and by a pious and intelligent clergy. In 1834 the number of ministers in the State, including two bishops, was 59, churches, 58, and 2840 communicants. In the same year, the Presbyterians num- bered 117 churches, 100 ministers, 11,413 communicants; the Methodists, 168 ministers, communicants 34,316 whites, and 7,447 colored, total 41,763; the Baptists, 261 ministers, churches 450, and communicats 54,302, of whom it is conjectured that one-half are slaves. The precise distinction be- tween the regular Baptists and the Reformers, called the disciples of Christ, not being in all cases drawn, there is no coming to any thing like certain knowledge, but it is supposed they do not exceed 1 0,000 in number, neither are they so systematically arrayed as to afford any accuracy in their statis- tics, either as to the number of teachers, congregations, meeting-houses, &.C. Attempts are now being made for a better arrangement of their af- fairs. The increase of new members, for the last two or three years, has been so great that it has not been possible to keep pace with the demand for preachers, meeting-houses, &,c. They have advanced in the U. States, withm 10 years, from a few in number, to something like 150,000. The Catholics have 5 ministers, and 10 congregations; but the number of lay members is not ascertained. It will be perceived that the Baptists and Me- thodists are the most numerous sects in the state ;_ and the estimate does not include a considerable number of separatists from both communions. Be- sides these, there are Friends, Lutherans, Dunkers, Unitarians, Jews, &c-. OF VIRGINIA. 77 scatteroJ tliroug-h the state, whose numbers are not accurately known. Tlie Presbyterians have a theological seminary in Prince Edward, and the Epis- copalians one near Alexandria, both of which institutions have flourished by private liberality. The state, in its political capacity, has always mani- fested a strong jealousy of all ecclesiastical establishments; yet the Virgi- nians are generous in private contributions towards objects of religion and benevolence. Sunday schools, and societies for promoting temperance, Af- rican colonization, 6ic., have been extensively patronized in late years, EDUCATION. Literary Fund. — This Fund was established by the Legislature in 1809, by devoting the proceeds of all escheats, fines, and forfeitures, to the encouragement of learning. In 1816 it was encreased by the liberal appro- priation of the debt due from the United States to Virginia, on account of advances made by the State in the late war with Great Britain. The per- manent capital of this fund amounted, in September, 1833, to $1,551,857 47 Of this there was invested in stocks, loans and debts, - $1,551,803 34 Leaving in the treasury to the credit of the fimd, - - 54 13 To which balance must be added the undrawn school quotas, amounting to - - $20,256 74 First deducting the amt. invested in bank stock, of 7, 150 00 13,106 74 Which leaves a total balance to the credit of the fund of $13,160 87 The revenue arising from this fund amounted, in 1833, to $78,340 61 Of w^hich there was expended - - - 62,927 18 Leaving a balance, to encrease the capital, of - $15,413 43 When the Legislature appropriated the United States debt to this fund, it at the same time gave $230,000, and an annuity of $15,000 from the fund, to the University of Virginia. Primarv Schools. — The sum of $45,000 annually has been appropri- ated from the revenue of the Literary Fund, to the different counties, in pro- portion to their wdiite population, for the sole purpose of instructing poor children in the elements of learning. This sum is placed under the manage- ment and control of School Commissioners, appointed by the Court of each county. Tlie primary school system has been modified from time to time since its es- tablishment, — and is now under the control of the Second Auditor, Avho renders an annual report to the Legislature, of the disbursement of the fund, founded on the returns of the county commissioners. — As the public boun- ty is confined to the offspring of indigent parents, a plan is now partially in operation, by which contributions may be received from individuals to es- tablish schools free for all classes of pupils; and strong hope is entertained that the experiment will prove successful, notwithstanding the difficulties which arise from the mixed population of one portion of the state, and the scattered population and rugged surface of the other. Experience has al- ready demonstrated the utility of even the existing system, and thousands who'must have groped through life in the darkness of ignorance, have had the cheering light of knowledge shed upon them by means of the primary 78 GENERAL DESCRIPTION schools. We annex the Second Auditor's abstract of the number of poor children taught in each county, the expense, &c. for the year 1832-3: ABSTRACT of School Comvrissioners' Reports for the year 1832, receiv- ed between oOth Septe?nber, 1832, and 1st October, 1833. c o m 4, c jl rt c •c o cr ^ c J; en COUNTIES '5 c2 II c c S o '•5 •"H 3 rr X AND c o o o 2 s ■5 — •_ — 1 = 1 i rJ c. 3_- — o TOWNS. If 1^ 5 >v S ■~3 aj 2 2 "S 3 E-5 ■« £-3 c-a O 3 c2 fel S ^ ^ "3 c ~ c „" . O tt *^ ^ »- :S o « > CJJ ^ ?■-. "rZ f, < <- « tf < K Albemarle, 15 49 600 181 13020 71 4 cts. S3 15 S570 74 Amelia, 8 13 120 49 6147 125 4 5 57 273 08 Amherst, 15 25 250 85 5383 63 4 2 87 243 74 Alleghany, 8 10 80 42 2016 48 4 2 08 87 29 Accoinac, 1-2 30 750 256 14695 54 31 2 31 592 22 Augusta, 15 G5 600 437 21003 48 4 2 02 883 59 Bath, 10 17 100 99 3901 39 31 1 44 142 53 Bed lord. 15 29 450 338 19656 58 4 2 55 861 65 Berkeley, 15 34 530 349 24518 70 3i 2 45 854 14 Botetourt, 1-2 45 325 300. 22843 76 4 3 28 982 58 Brooke, 9 29 410 268 19383 72 2i 1 98 530 13 Buckingham, 10 G5 250 136 11488 84 4 3 67 498 90 Brunswick, - _ — — — Cabell, 7 17 200 117 6399 55 4 2 40 280 76 Campbell, 8 29 350 115 5963 52 4 2 12 244 57 Caroline, 8 29 450 157 11577 74 4 3 31 519 88 Charles City, - - — — — Charlotte, 8 23 300 95 8072 85 4 3 79 360 16 Chesterfield, 11 30 500 178 14042 79 4 3 38 601 65 Culpeper, 15 49 500 330 22927 69 4 3 07 1012 93 Cumberland, 9 20 100 91 8617 95 4 4 14 - 376 73 Dinwiddie, 12 20 120 61 9658 158 4 6 77 412 94 Essex, 7 12 300 56 4420 79 4 3 26 183 92 Elizabeth City, 7 2 50 21 776 37 4 2 16 45 39 Fairfax, 9 23 500 183 10650 58 4 2 38 435 50 Fauquier, - - — — — — — — — Franklin, 9 24 500 285 14093 49 34 1 82 518 50 Fayette, - - — — — Frederick, 9 100 650 428 31500 74 4 2 77 1186 85 Floyd, G G 150 33 1444 4^1 4 3 20 105 52 Fluvanna, 8 18 100 43 3711 86 4 3 88 166 83 Grayson, 7 41 350 307 13010 42 4 1 77 544 15 Greenbrier, 10 20 500 239 12106 50 4 2 25 537 90 Greensville, - - — Giles, G 19 225 128 7342 57 3J 2 20 281 && Gloucester, 14 15 160 36 2645 73 4 3 48 125 42 Goochland, 11 25 250 57 G030 106 4 4 60 262 57 Halifax, 12 GO looo a-12 16541 69 4 2 91 704 21 Hampshire, 14 48 800 545 22048 40 4 1 67 912 14 Hanover, 12 50 350 36 3486 97 4 4 59 165 20 Hardy, 15 21 2.50 100 764G 76 4 3 32 332 23 Harrison, 15 86 900 754 3G200 48 21 1 29 976 13 Henry, 5 10 90 65 4312 66 3i 2 30 149 52 Henrico, - - — Isle of Wight, 10 29 350 198 9902 50 4 2 24 442 98 James City, - - — — — OF VIRGINIA. 79 Jackson, - -^ — — — — — — — JelTerson, 14 31 350 217 17105 78 4 3 25 705 26 Kanawha, 14 24 450 298 lD-217 G4 4 2 73 814 72 Kin- & aucen, 9 25 200 117 7129 Gl 4 2 73 320 22 Kini? Ceoi-ffc 6 8 150 56 57t5G 103 4 4 40 249 92 Km^ William, 7 22 200 G7 5418 81 4 3 52 23G 10 Lancaster, 9 8 150 45 250G 5G 4 2 84 117 91 L-c 10 21 500 1G3 972G GO f 2 48 404 34 Lewis, 9 34 500 235 11GJ4 50 2i 1 30 304 99 Losran, -- — — — — — ■ — — London, 15 75 900 420 29383 70 4 2 96 1230 18 Lonisa, 12 27 250 123 12260 100 4 4 10 505 13 Lunenburg, 11 15 300 83 G256 75 4 3 40 282 41 Madison, 9 15 200 78 5984 76 4 3 18 248 10 Mason, 9 19 175 127 GG97 53 3J 2 23 283 41 Matthews, G 13 90 G2 6975 112 3 3 55 220 29 Mecklenburg, 10 80 300 151 14282 94 4 4 14 625 62 Middlesex, 9 10 150 l33 1L359 85 4 4 06 539 91 Monongalia, 9 80 1000 637 32341 51 2i 1 39 889 15 Monroe 11 25 450 l92 10454 54 3j 2 05 395 40 Montgomery, 8 9 300 68 4745 70 4 3 05 207 44 Morgan, 6 9 150 66 3783 57 3j 2 46 162 75 Nansemond, 11 20 150 66 5373 81 4 3 60 238 51 Nelson, 7 18 247 57 3689 65 4 2 96 169 06 New Kent, 9 9 150 28 2037 73 4 3 65 102 22 Nicholas, 7 18 150 99 5214 52 3 1 82 179 80 Norfolk County, 8 33 300 154 11423 74 4 3 13 482 36 Norfolk Borough, G 30 100 80 22436 280 U 4 28 342 55 Northampton, 9 16 130 99 G835 69 4 3 00 297 65 Northumberland, 9 17 190 89 5331 58 4 2 73 242 89 Nottoway, 8 16 150 40 5390 l35 4 6 19 247 70 Orange, U 40 240 90 7745 86 4 3 70 333 78 Ohio, 10 40 500 282 23032 81 2 1-12 1 84 520 06 Patrick, 12 19 150 135 8786 G5 3 2 09 281 92 Page, 6 20 250 109 5469 50 4 2 17 237 25 Pendleton, 15 36 400 356 14298 40 3i 1 45 515 43 Preston, 7 23 " 220 190 9374 49 3 1 61 306 14 Petersburg, 12 18 200 30 6900 230 3 7 62 228 57 Prince Edward, 10 15 150 38 3008 79 4 3 33 126 45 Prince George, 11 12 120 26 3028 116 4 5 30 137 80 Prince William, 8 18 400 178 11655 65 4 2 81 500 18 Princess Anne, 8 14 200 50 6124 124 4 2 36 267 94 Pittsylvania, 15 54 llOO 368 19752 54 3j 2 26 830 62 Powhatan, 6 20 80 23 2596 113 4 4 64 106 84 Pocahonta-s, 5 17 120 100 6018 00 3 2 11 211 29 Randolph, 9 22 350 197 7947 40 3i 1 37 280 64 Richmond County, -- — — — — — — — Richmond City, ' 9 45 400 70 15750 225 3f 8 42 497 70 Rockbridge, " 12 44 460 320 21692 67 3| 2 73 873 76 Rockingham, 13 85 700 351 22510 64 3j 2 54 890 05 Russell, 8 17 300 187 11608 62 3 2 24 418 44 Stafford, 9 15 250 152 8299 54 3} 2 00 305 11 Shenandoah, 13 82 800 522 35675 68 4 2 89 1512 6l Scott, 7 23 475 143 5592 39 4 1 69 242 61 Smyth, -- — — — — — — — Southampton, U 26 250 212 12203 57 4 2 43 515 45 Spottsylvania, 12 30 200 120 8961 75 4 3 35 402 39 Surry 5 9 130 80 8449 105 4 4 67 374 27 Sussex, 11 25 200 95 7919 83 4 3 57 338 95 Tazewell, -- — — — — — — — Tyler, 11 20 450 210 10958 51 2 1 20 259 46 Washington, -- — — — — — — — Warwick, 9 2 37 5 193 40 4 4 08 20 42 AVestmoreland, -- — — — — — — — Williamsburg, 7 4 20 4 239 60 4 3 14 12 56 80 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Wythe, Wood, York, 29 250 9 34 400 7 11 120 159 288 83 9437 11627 7020 59 40 48 3i 3' 4 2 35 1 27 3 52 373 53 366 34 292 68 2833 32801 I 2 16669 3 1083103 4 42033 06 5 RECAPITULATION. Number of schools in lOO counties and towns, as per column 1, - f'^'^'i Number of poor children in ditto, as per column 2, - - - - 32,804 Number of poor children sent to common schools in ditto, as per column 3, 16,669 Number sent to district schools, as per statement A, - - 412 Total number of poor children educated, - - 17,081 Amount expended for tuition at common schools, and all other expenses, for books, compensation to officers, &c. as per col- umn 5, - - 42,033 06 Ditto, at district free schools, as per statement A, - 963 21 Total expenditure for tuition, &c. - - - ^42,996 27 Average number of days actual attendance of each poor child at common schools, ....------ 6o Average amount paid for each poor child, including books and writing materials, clerks' and treasurers' compensation, at common, schools, ...- $2 52J Ditto, at district free schools, per statement A, 2 33j Average rate paid for each day's actual attendance at common. schools, including books, &c. and officers' compensation, - - - 3 9-10 STATEMENT A. Abstract of School Comviissmiers' Reports, shewing the operations of the District Free Schools, in the Counties in tchich they have been establish- ed, during the year ending oOth September^ 1832; y ^2^ -2-^ -2^ £. .^ -2 o fl ^ g ^.S d^ d.S I o -^^2 ^ COUNTIES. -B 'B^ i^ i^ " . fe gS^S I .^■2j£. S~gSf, g-^ c§ ^So?^ .o.;5 C^cl C_ iSo ^ti -soaj,© Co O o '^ '—' cf AND Mary — This institution, which is at Williamsburg, formerly the capitol of Virginia, and next to Harvard College, the oldest in the United State?, derives its name from William and I\Inrv, sove- OF VIRGINIA. 81 TeiQfns of En^lund, Ly -whom its charter was graiited In 1G9I. It re- ceived with its charter a g-raiit of £1,08;"), 20,1)00 acres uf iatul, a/id a penny a pound on tobacco exported from Virginia and Maryland; and it was fur- ther aided by private donations, particuhndy by the munificence of the Hon. Robert Boyle. In lO'Jo, the Assembly of V^iririnia ordered that it should be built at Williamsburfr, and made some additional grants, so that its an- nual income became upwards of .-G3,0C0;but it was subsequently greatly di- minished. — " The fumls," as recently stated by the President of the college, "consist of bonds, stocks, lands, and houses, amounting in all to about $150,000, not yielding, however, a revenue in proportion to the amount." — " No regular list of students or graduates, has been kept till within the last few years; the number, therefore, of alumini we cannot determine; but it is certainly greater than from any other college south of the Potomac. — Owing to peculiar circumstances, the graduates have always been few. Nine-tenths of the students have gone through one course without apply- ing for a degree." Many of the most eminent men of Virginia were edu- cated here. The condition of the college, at different periods, has been very variable; but, after a period of declension, it has had, for some years past, a considerable degree of prosperity. It is under the legislative government of a board of 24 trustees who supply the vacancies in their OAvn body. The college edifice is a large misshapen pile of buildings. The college library contains 3,500, and the students' librar3% 600 volumes. The Rev. James Blair, D. D. was named president in the charter, but is said not to have entered upon the duties of the office till 1729; he died in 1742, and was succeeded by the Rev. William Stith, who died in 1750. — The Rev. James Madison, D. D. (Bishop of Virginia,) was president from 1777 to 1812. His successors have been the Rev. W. H. Wilmer, Dr. J. Augustine Smith, and the Rev. Dr. Adam Empie. Fdcully hi 1833.— Rev. Adam Empie, D. D., Pref. tj- Prof. Mor.Phil. William B. Rogers, Prof. Chcmislnj and Nat. Philosojihi/. Dabney Brown, Prof. Humaniii/. Thomas R. Dew, Prof History, Metaphysics, cfc. Robert Saunders, Jr. Prof Mathematics. Beverley Tucker, Prof Law, Number of students in the Senior and Junior classes in 1833, 26; irre- gular students 15; law students 12; academical 37; total 90. Graduates in 1829, 5; in 1830, 7: in 1831, 15; in 1832, 11. Commencement is on the 4th of July. — One vacation, from commence- ment to the last Monday in October. Annual Expenses — for a Junior student; board and lodging $100 ; wash- ing, fuel, candles, &c. $20; three fees for the moral, mathematical and che- mical courses, and half a {cc for the metaphysical course, $70; matricula- tion $5; — total $195. For a senior student"$185. The law course com- mences at the opening of the college, and terminates on the Saturday be- fore the last Monday in April. Expenses, board, washing, and fuel, $90; tuition $20; matriculation $5; — total, $115. The grammar school opens on the 15th of October, and closes on the 1st of Aug-ust. Expenses, board, including every thing, $100; tuition $20; — total $l20. H.VMPDEN Sydney, in Prince Eilward county: Washington College, in Rockbridge: 11 82 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Randolh Macox, at Boydton, iu Mecklenburg co : are all flourishing' institutions, and a full account may be seen of them in their respective coun- ties. We pass on to the principal literary institution of the state, the University of Virginia. — The legislature of Virginia at the session of 1817-18, adopted measures for establishing an institution then proposed to be named Central College, and 24 commissioners were appointed to select a site for it. They accordingly selected a pleasant and elevated spot nearly two miles from Charlottesville, in the county of Albemarle, not far from the centre of the population of the state. Their choice was confirmed by the legislature in 1819, and an act was passed incorporating the institution by the title of the University of Virginia, which went into operation in 1825. It was erected and endowed by tlie state; and it owes its origin and peculiar organization chiefly to Mr. Jefferson. It has a fine collection of buildings, consisting of four parallel ranges about 600 feet in length, and 200 feet apart, suited to the accommodation of 9 professors and upwards of 200 stu- dents; which together with the real estate, cost $333,996. It posscscs a very valuable library of 10,000 volumes, and a philosophical apparatus, which together cost $36,948. The state gives annually $15,000 for the support of the insthution. The whole annual income of the University is about $18,500. The professors are paid partly by a fixed salary and part- ly by fees received from the students; but the sums which they severally receive are widely different, varying in ordinary years from $1,600 to $3,500. The plan of this University differs materially from that of other institu- tions of the kind in the United States. The students are not divided into four classes, Avith a course of studies embracing four years; hut the differ- ent branches of .science and literature here taught are styled schools, and the student is at liberty to attend which he pleases, and graduate in each, when prepared. The first degree was conferred in 1828 — the number of graduates in that year was 10; in 1829, 12; 1830, 30: 1831, 20; 1832,46; total, 118; of these 16 were graduates in ancient languages; 14 in mathe- matics; 23 in natural philosophy; 9 in chemistry; 17 in moral philosophy; 22 in medicine; and 17 in law. The title of "Master of Arts of the Uni- versity of Virginia," was conferred on one student at the commencement of 1832, and on several in each year since. To obtain this title ft is necessa- ry to gradaute in the several schools of mathematics, ancient languages, moral philosophy, natural philosophy, chemistry, and by a recent enactment in some two of the modern languages. ^Ancient Languages, from 1825 to '33, 519 — in 1833, 58 Modern " Mathematics, " " Number of Stu- Natural Philosophy, dents in the <| Chemistry &l Materia Medica, School of Medicine, " Anatomy and Surgery, " Moral Philosophy, " " Law, " " " Annual Expenses. — Board, including bed, washing, and attendance, dur- ing the session from September 10 to .Tiily 20, $100f fuel and candles $15; room-rent $8; use of library and public rooms, $15; fees to three profes- sessors (to on(> only $50" to two, $30 each; if more than two, *25 each.) $75; total $213. 425— " 22 619— " 76 410— " 83 407— " 69 238— " 40 183— " 35 252— " 38 201 — " 37 OF VTRGINIA, 83 Foe nil II ill 183 1. — Gosnor Tlanison, Prof. Ancient Languages. Georg-t' IJhvttcrman, Prof. Modern Languages. Charles Bonuv'oastle, Prof. Malhcniatics. Robert Patterson, Prof. Natural Philosophy. John P. Emmet, Prof Chemistry and Materia Medica. Aug-iistus L. Warner, Prof. Anatomy and Surgery. Alfred T. Magill, Prof Medicine. ' George Tucker, Prof. Moral Philosophy and Political Economy. John A. G. Davis, Prof Law. Chairman of the Faculty, in 1834, Professor Bonnycastle. — The chair, man is annually chosen from the professors, by the Visitors. Board of Visitors, in 1834, Joseph C. Cabell, Rector, Chapman Johnson, John H. Cocke, Thomas J. Randolph, W. C. Rives, and William H. Brod- nax. The Visitors are appointed by the governor and council, every four years, and choose their own rector. A more detailed account of this insti- tution is given in Albemarle county. MILITARY ORGANIZATION, ARMS, &c. Abstract of the annual return of the Militia of the State of Virginia, for the year 1833 — viz: General Stafl', 104 Cavalry, 7,635 Artillei-y, 5,301 Grenadiers, Light Infontry, Riflemen, and Infantry of the line, 89,079 Total Militia, - Decrease during 1833, Which are divided as follows Divisions, - - - - Brigades, - - - - Regiments, Troops of Cavalry, Companies of Artillery, In these divisions the ofRicers Major Generals. Brigadier Generals - Adjutant Inspector and Gluar- ter Master General, Aids-de-Camps, Division Inspectors, Division duarter Masters, Brigade Inspectors, - Brio-adc duartcr Masters, Colonels, Lieutenant Colonels, Majors, . . . - Adjutants, Quarter Masters, Paymasters, Chaplains, C7.2. 102,119 2:2 154 110 72 Companies of Grenadiers, - 5 do. Light Infantry, 74 do. Riflemen, - 120 do. Infantry of the line,927 and men, are divided thus : 4 1 Surgeons, - - - 138 21; Surgeons Mates, - - 130 I Captains, - - - 1080 1 Lieutenants, - - - 1095 •29| Ensigns, ... 588 4; Cornets, ... 77 4 Sergeant Majors, - - 126 22! Quarter Master Sergeants, 1 15 19: Musicians, - - - 860 139; Buglers and Trumpeters, 63 135' Sergeants, - - - 3642 135! Corporals, - - - 2158 138 Privates, - - - 91128 141 Commissioned Officers, - 4037 137 Non-Commissioned Officers, 2 Musicians and Privates, 98082 84 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Arms, Sj-c. in the hands of ihe militia; and remaining in the Lexington Arsenal, September 30, 1833, I'iz: Brass four pounders, do. six pounders, Iron four pounders, do. six pounders, Muskets, - Bayonets, Carbines, - 2G ?7i81 JG857 120 Rifles, - - . - 2174 Horsemans' pistols, - - 1991 Cavalry swords, - - 2053 Artillery swords, - - 353 Colors, .... 167 Drums and fifes, - - 375 Bugles, Trumpets, &c. &c. 22. Reports of Arms, d^^c Remaining in the Armory at Richmond, on theZ(ytk September, i833— viz: Brass mortars, - - - 2 32 pounders, brass, - - G Long G pounders, brass, - 1 24 pounders, iron, - - 4 12 pounders, iron, - - 36 6 pounders, iron, - - 129 4 pounders, iron, - - 43 Muskets, - - - 38,472; Rifles, Virginia manufactory, 880 do. received from the U. S. 1851. Carbines, ... 20 Pistols, .... 702. Cavalry swords, &c. &c. - 312& Regulations. — An act for the better organization of the militia, passed^ 1833-34, revises and consolidates all the existing laws on the subject of the militia, with amendments, of which the following are the principal provi- sions : the officers are required to be trained by the commandments of regi-- ments, instead of by the brigade inspectors; the musters are increased, so that there will be one regimental muster in the spring, one battalion muster in the fall, and a company muster in the spring and fall, each making fouE musters in the year; volunteer companies having two extra additional mus- ters, making six in the year, but the regimental courts of enquiry have the power Avithin any regiment to dispense with any of the extra musters if they think proper, and the power of substitviting battalion musters, in the spring, in lieu of the regimental muster, and also to prescribe the time and place of muster; the commandants of regiments to prescribe the time and, place of the trainings of the oflicers, instead of the brigadier generals, as heretofore. All companies are to be officered with a captain, four lieuten- ants, five sergeants, and six corporals each; volunteer companies are per- mitted to adopt their own by-laws, and the commandants thereof to appoint the time for their extra musters; fines for faiHng to attend such extra mus- ters to be imposed by the courts of enquiry, to be collected by the sheriffs, and paid to the treasurers of buch companies, to be disposed of by the com- panies as they may deem proper; all vuiformed volunteer companies to be armed. The act exempts from militia duty, (except in time of war, insur- rection or invasion,) all members of volunteer companies who produce to their regimental courts of enquiry, certficates from iheir commanding offi- cers of seven years service. Companies of artillery equijjpod with ord- nance, to be allowed one dollar per day for each horse employed in drawing their artillery and caissons, and the governor is authorized to require any company of artillery to perform the duties of light artillery. Tlie uniform of the respective corps of the militia, to be the same with that of the United States' army, unless the governor, by proclamation, shall otherwise order; but volunteer companies now uniformed, are not required to change their uniform. Battalioi courts of enquiry to be held in October OF VIROTNIA. 85 or Novonilier, and reo-imontal courts in NovcmLor or DcGcmber; the act authorizinif boards of" the ollicers of the different regiments to be convened at any time to transact any other business of the regiment otiier tliun the assessment or remission of fines. Tlie fines on non-commissioned officers and sokh'ers for failing to attend musters, to be not k'ss than 75 cents, nor more than three dolhirs for each delinquency. Musicians may be allowed by the regimental courts of enquiry, two dollars per day for each lawful mus- ter, the claims to be paid by the sheriff within three months thereafter, and provision is made for the more prompt payment than heretofore of drafts for the purposes of the militia. One stand of colors only is allowed to each regiment, and colors and musical instruments are not allowed oftener than once in ten }i?ars, nor unless sanctioned by the regimental court of enquiry. The adjutant general is allowed the brevet rank of a brigadier general. — The executive to cause the act, together with the articles of war, to be print- ed, and one copy to be furnished to each commissioned officer. The act not to take eflect till iht' first of January, 1835. LUNATIC ASYLUMS. This state has two lunatic asj'lums: one is located in eastern Virginia, at "Williamsburg, .Tames city county, the other in western Virginia, at Staun- ton, Augusta countJ^ There were in the lunatic hospital at Williamsburg, on the first of January, 1834, 37 male and 18 female patients — total 55. — During the year 1833, nine died, and three were discharged. The aggre- gate expense for the support of this institution during the past year, was- $9,250 87, according to the director's report. In the lunatic hospital at Staunton, there were on the 28th day of December, 1833, 19 male, and 1& female patients — total 37; during the same year, one died. There Avas ex- pended for the support of this- establishment, during the past year, $G,07& 31, according to the report of the committee. A considerable addition is now being made to the building of the las4E mentioned asylum. PENITENTIARY. We believe this system has been as successful in few states, as in Virginia, The annexed table exhibits the fact that it is only necessary to send back again one in (nearly) every twenty-one ; Avhich seems to exhibit a very suc- cessful reformation: — whilst the reports of its fiscal concerns prove that so. far from being a burthen, it brings to the State a small annual revenue. To- punish crime, and reform the criminal, Avithout expense to the state, is the object in view: — our system certainly attains the latter completely, and ap- ^roximates, in a very beneficial degree, to the former: 80 GENERAL DESCRIPTION A TABLE sheioi/ig the number of convicts, received in ihe Penitentiary of Virginia, from the time it teas opened in 1800, ^eith the pardons, deaths^ escapes, and discharges in each year, iintil the oOth of Novem- ber, 1833, and the number remaining on that day. ■^3 > o !=: O J-4 a O i 6 !>. O 1800 21 — 1 1801 23 — 1 1802 44 — 1 1803 55 3 2 1804 41 1 1 1805 50 — 1 1806 40 5 5 1807 54 18 3 1808 37 11 — 1809 40 8 1 1810 25 11 3 1811 33 10 5 1812 50 34 — 1813 52 17 5 1814 33 23 o 1815 45 9 6 181G 74 9 3 1817 77 16 o 1818 60 9 7 1819 80 12 11 1820 93 20 9 1821 81 13 15 1822 103 20 12 1823 83 12 14 1824 62 15 16 1825 34 1 23 182G 52 6 18 1827 43 4 17 1828 50 6 17 1829 55 4 21 1830 57 4 15 1831 49 5 25 1832 43 13 51 1833 37 11 9 ■^Xi ^ 10 16 31 33 21 34 22 29 31 20 18 11 33 15 14 26 39 47 34 44 55 60 66 45 47 33 28 21 24 25 22 20 19 P- Vi . 1— I fc- a" -^ •^ o o o aj 19 41 68 87 90 118 113 124 121 121 112 112 117 114 106 122 158 171 168 191 211 209 220 211 191 154 149 143 149 155 168 165 124 of the principal of these loans, were charged, in like manner, upon the cor- porate funds, in the first instance: but should these prove insufficient, the Treasury itself, as before, is made chargeable with any deficiency. "Thus it has happened, that while a considerable portion of the capital of this Corporation has been invested in stocks absolutely unproductive, or vei'y nearly so, the whole of this capital is now charged with the payment of the interest and reimbursement of the principal of large debts, for which she Treasury itself is ultimately liable. As yet, the income of the Corpo- ration is equal to the satisfaction of all its expenses, and to the payment of the interest charged upon it. It is believed also, that the capital is suffi- cient to discharge the principal of all these debts. But should any ad- ditional burthen be imposed upon this Corporation, at this time, it is proba- ble that its means would not suffice to meet all its engagements, without im- pairing this capital. In that event, it is obvious that ere long, the whole Aveight of all these engagements must fall upon the Treasury, Avhen to pre- serve the credit of the state, new and burthensome taxes must be imposed upon the people. "To prevent such a result, I recommend to you most earnestly, that no new charge be imposed upon this Corporation, at present. In a few years, it is expected very confidently, that all the works in which it is concerned and which arc now in progress, Avill be completed. Unless individuals have been greatly deceived in their estimates of the effects of these works, the funds invested in them will then become productive. The profits of this capital, or its proceeds Avill then enable the easy and speedy reimburse- ment of the debts with which the Corporation is now charged. The whole funds of the Board will then become applicable to other undertakings; and the work of Internal Improvement may again proceed with increased vigor and advantage. But if a different course is pursued, the ruin of this Cor- poration may be the too probable conseq\ience — grievous taxation must fol- 12 90 GENERAL DESCRIPTION low as the necessary effect of its ruin; and the work of Internal Improve- ment will receive a shock from which it will not recover for a long period, "As a fiscal agent, the Board of Public Works has been, and under ju- dicious management will continue to be, of great advantage to the Com- monwealth. So long as its plans meet public approbation, it will call into useful action the unemployed capital of individuals, making this productive to its proprietors, and beneficia] to the community. The very debts which it may be compelled to contract occasionally, Avill effect all the beneficial results, without producing any of the evils attendant upon a public debt — provided they are confined to a limit, within which the income of the Cor- poration, after satisfying its expenses, will certainly pay the interest, and its capital surely reimburse the principal. But if a different course is adopted, this Institution, instead of being an useful fiscal agent, will be worse than useless. It will then become positively mischievous, acting as a perpetual drain of the Treasury and exhausting its funds, repleted often as its coffers must be, by hea\'y exactions from the people." Navigation East of the Appalachian Si/stcm. — The eastern part of Vir- ginia is peculiarly favored in facilities for water transportation, in the im- mense and deep bay of Chesapeake and its large tributaries, the James, the York, the Rappahannock, and the Potomac. The earth affords no other instance of so great a physical change in so short a distance, as that between the shallow sounds of North Carolina, and the deep water of the Chesa- peake; in the latter the largest ships of war have adequate depth almost to the very verge of the primitive rock ; ships of the line ascend the main bay nearly to its head, — the Potomac to Alexandria, — some distance into York river, — and up James river to the mouth of Nansemond : sloops draAving six or seven feet water penetrate into innumerable creeks upon both sides of the bay. Nature seems also to have been especially liberal to this state in the peculiar direction of the channels of her rivers, making her eastern border a common recipient of all flowing east of the Appalachian System. The rivers of Georgia and the Carolinas, from Alatamaha to Cape Fear inclusive (and we might say without much violence to Roanoke) floAv S. E. or S. S. E.: but from the southern border of Virginia to the Susquehan- nah they floAV east, and the latter river south. Much has been done to im- prove the navigation in eastern Virginia, but little when compared with the extent of country and the number of lines of communication inviting at- tention. James River is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Warwick, and 125 tons to Rocket's, the port of Richmond. At that city commences the falls or rapids, to pass which by a navigable canal, the old James River Com- pany was chartered in 1784, and were collecting tolls in the year 1794. (See Richmond, Henrico County.) The Richmond canal entered a basin on the western side of the city, it was 25 feet wide, and 3 deep, and extended originally 2J miles to its junction with the river, in Avhich space there are 12 locks, and a fall of 1 80 feet. Three miles above the falls there Avas another short canal, with 3 locks, overcoming a fall of 34 feet. These canals and locks, Avith other slight improvements opened a tolerable navigation of 12 inches AA'ater to Lynchburg. In 1825 the James Ri\^er Company declared canal navigation complete to the head of Maiden's Adventure tails, in Gooch- land County, a distance of 30^ miles from Richmond. The Avidth of the canal is 40 feet, depth of AA'ater 3^ feet, and the expense Avas $623,225; the fall OA'ercome AA'as 140^- feet. This last impro\'ement AA'as probably in pro- OF VIRGINIA. 91 portion to its mag-nitudc the most promptly executed work at that time ac- complished iu the United States. Besides these there is another canal through the Blue Ridge, about 7 miles long, and 30 feet wide, overcoming a fall of 100 feet. James River and Kanawha Communication. — The necessity of opening a complete communication between the Ohio and Chesapeake by this line, has been felt by all classes in Virginia, indeed it is admitted that without i^ she must sink to a very low ebb when compared with her more enterprising sisters, in wealth, population, and importance. There has already been ex. pended on this line of improvement $1,274,.583, of which $638,883 86, have been expended on the lower James River Canal, the old and new im- provements, — $365,207 02 on the mountain canal, — $87,389,81 on the Kanawha, — and $171,982 49 on turnpike roads and bridges from Coving- ton to the Kanawha; but these improvements though of great local advan- tage to the sections of country in which they are situated, by no means es- tablish a continuous conrmunication. To effect this all-important object the Legislature in 1831-2, granted a charter of incorporation to the James River and Kanawha Company, with a capital of $5,000,000. This char- ter was at first liberal, but has since been most particularly and specially favored by the Legislature, for the purpose of inducing individual subscrip- tion; exempting the shares from taxation, making the charter perpetual, allowing the Banks to subscribe, and subscribing for the state an amount far beyond her usual proportion in improvements, &c. These advantages, and the unremitting exertions of some patriotic citizens, have (it is believed) procured the necessary amount of subscriptions, and it is probable that the noble Avork will be commenced in the spring of 1835. No human foresight can see the limit of the advantages attendant on its success, or the evils of its failure.* Dismal Sicamp Canal is another important improvement, it is said to have been the first canal commenced in the United States, and nearly the last finished, — it is 22^ miles in length, 40 feet wide, and 6| deep, it passes from Deep creek to Joyce's creek at the head of Pasquotank river, and con- nects the waters of the Chesapeake with those of Albemarle sound, it is »The first Message of Governor Tazewell contains the best history of the legisla- tion upon this subject which we have seen: "One of the great Corporations created for purposes of Internal laiprovement, in which the Commonwealth is now concerned exclusively, is " The James River Corn- pan}'." The origin of this must be sought for as far back as the year 1784. In that year, the General Assembly passed an Act, whereby they incorporated a Company imder this name, with a capital of S100,000, divided into 500 shares, of ijpSOO each, for the purpose of clearing and extending the navigation of James River, from tide-wa- ter upwards, to the highest parts practicable on the main branch thereof. By seve- ral other acts passed afterwards, it was declared, that the highest place practicable within the meaning of the first act, was Crow's Ferry at the mouth o* Looney's creek in the county of Botetourt; and the capital stock of the Company was increased to 700 shares. Of these shares, the state became a subscriber for 250, v.-ith which the Board of Public Works was afterwards endowed, as a part of its capital, when this Institution was created in 181G. After the work for the accomplishment of which this charter was granted, had been completed, or very nearlj-^ so, it was tliought beneficial to the state, to improve the navigation of James River beyond the highest point first fixed, to the mouth of Dunlap's Creek — to make a convenient road from thence to the great falls of the Ka- nawha River; and to make the last mentioned river navigable from the great falls thereof to the river Ohio. But as their charter imposed no such obligations upon the then existing Companv, it was necessary to enter into a new contract with it, for that 02 GENERAL DESCRIPTION partly in Virginia and partly in North Carolina. This canal was finished, upon a circumscribed plan in 1822. Its dimensions have since been en- larged. Every quarter of a mile, the canal is widened to 60 feet for turn- out stations. The locks newly constructed correspond in dimensions with those of the Chesapeake and Delaware canal; and the old ones may be so altered when necessary, without great difficulty. The summit level is 16^ feet above the Atlantic at mid-tide, and is supplied by a feeder of five miles' length from lake Drummond. The basin at Deep creek, is half a mile in length, and 1.5 feet above the level of tide-water. The NorthAvest canal connects Northwest river [which empties into Currituck sound in N. Caro- lina] with the main canal, requiring a cut of 6 miles. This canal is 24 fec-t wide, and 4 feet deep. The Appomato-x has been improved from its mouth 10 miles to Fisher's bar, and around the falls 5 or 6 miles above Petersburg. Danville and Da7i river canals are a series of improvements upon the purpose. This was accordingly done, by an act passed in February 1820. Under this new act, the state undertook to pay, semi-annuallv, to the Stockholders of the James River Company, a dividend upon their stock of 12 per centum per annum for several years, and of 15 per centum per annum forever thereafter. The state un- dertook further, to carry into effect the contemplated improvements, by appropriating to that purpose the requisite funds; and in consideration of these things, the Company assigned to the Commonwealth, all their tolls and mcome of every kind. The state having thus acquired all the interest of the original stockholders in this Company, the General Assembly abolished the former Directory of the Company, by an Act passed in 1823, and appointing a new Directory of the same, committed the management of its concerns to this body. To enable the accomplishment of the ob- ject specified, stmdry Acts were passed by the General Assembly, from time to time^ authorizing the Directory to borrow large sums of money. For the payment of the interest of the sums so to be borrowed, and of the annuity aforesaid, all the income of the Company was appropriated to that purpose; and the General Assembly pledged its faith, that it would provide such other revenues as might be necessary. Until such other sufficient funds should be provided, however, so much of the revenue of the Board of Public "Works as might be necessary to supply the deficiency, was ex- pressly pledged. Under this authority, the President and Directors of this Company have borrowed at various periods since the authority was given, and at various rate'; of interest, sun- dry sums of money, the aggregate of which amounts now to $1,324,500; and the total amount of the annual interest thereon is computed at $76,563 50, exclusive of the perpetual annuity of $21,000 payable to the original stockholders of the Company, fov the surrender of their charter. In 1832, the policy which .seems to have guided the course of legislation upon the subject of the James River Company until that time, appears to have been changed. Until then, the policyhad directed, that the Commonwealth should possess the exclu- sive control over this great institution. To give complete effect to this policy, the state had expended much more than a million and a half of dollars in completing the work. But on the 16th of March 1832, a joint stock company was again incorporated, pro- visionally, to effect the great purpose of connecting the tide water of James River with the navigable waters of the Ohio. The capital of this company v^-as to be $5,000,000 divided into shares of $100 each. To this stock, the state stipulated, that, she would subscribe at once ten thousand shares, or $1,000,000, to be paid for by a transfer of the whole interest the Commonwealth held in the works and property of the James River Companv; and Avhen three-fifths, or more, of the capital stock .should be taken by others, the state agreed, to subscribe for the residue of the $5,000,000, he this what it might. Time until the second Monday in December 1832, was allowed, for making up the subscription of the private stockholders, but before that dav another act was passed, extending this time to the 3d Monday in December 1833, and this ex- tended time was again prolonged by another Act, piis.sed by the last Assemblv, until the 31st of December of the present vear. The latter Act binds the CommGnS\ ealth to subscribe for the remainder of the capital .stock of the contemplated company, whenever one moiety of it, or more, should have been taken by other subscribers. In this state of things, while the faith of the state is pledged to comply with the OF VIRGINIA. 03 upper Lranclics of the Roanoke river, \ipon wliich in Viro-jnia and North Carolina, the Roanoke company have expended about SofjO.OOO. Shenandoah Canals are on the river of that name, and near Port Repub- lic in Rocking-ham county. A fall of 50 feet is overcome by six short ca- nals with stone locks; by which this river is rendered navigable nearly 200 miles. The Rappahannock has been improved by locks, dams, and canals, from Fredericksburg to Fox's mills, about 40 miles. This work was done by a joint stock company — $30,000 of the stock belonging to individuals, and 5!!420,000 to the state. North- Wcste rn Turnpike. We extract an account of this road from Gov. Tazewell's first message, sent to the Legislature Dec. 1st, 1834: "Another great Corporation in which the Commonwealth is exclusively concerned, is that styled ' The President and Directors of the North- Wes- tern Turnpike Road.' This was created by an act pased in the year 1831. • Its object was, to construct a road from the town of Winchester, in the county of Frederick, to some point on the Ohio River to be thereafter select- ed; and the Corporation was authorized to borrow, on the credit of the State, a sum or sums of money not exceeding $125,000, for the accomplishment of the object of its creation. During the last session of the General Assem- conditions proposed by itself, provided these conditions are accepted by others, I feel my.self restrained from offering a single remark as to the justice or policy of the con- templated scheme. The proffered contract must be carried into elfect by the Com- monwealth, be its effects what they may; provided those to whom the proffer has been made accept its terms, on their pa'rt, within the time limited. But should these terms not be accepted within Ihe time prescribed, I would recommend to your most serious consideration a careful revision of them, if a further extension of the time is hereaf- ter proposed. In any event it will be wise to provide .some means now, by which the debt due by the James River Company may be ultimately reimbursed; because, whether the pro- . posed arrangement be completed or not, the payment of the principal of this debt will remain as a charge upon the state exclusively. Although the payment of the per- petual annuity to the original stockholders in this Company, as v.'cll as of the annual interest due to the lenders of the large sums borrowed to carry on this great work, i.s well and amply provided for already, no provision has ever been made for the reim- bursement of the debt itself. It is "true, that no part of this is yet payable, nor will become due for many years: but sound policy requires that whenever a debt is con- tracted, funds adequate to the extinction of it, at some time or other should be sea- •sonably appropriated to that object. Should this be omitted, there is always hazard, that the debt will not only become permanent, but that its amount w'ill constantly aug- ment; and while this tends, by its influence, to generate great inequalities in a state, it must in time disturb its legislation, impair its credit, and produce effects upon its currency which cannot be foreseen or prevented. As a fiscal agent, the James River Company has been of no benefit as yet. The income of this Corporation has not sufficed to satisfy its own expenses, the perpetual annuity due to the original stockholders, and the interest of the sums borrowed to carry on its works. Owing to this cause, the ability of the Board of Public Works has been much cramped of late, by the necessity imposed upon that body to provide for the deficiency, out of its funds. But the resources of the James River Company have been much influenced for several years last past, by the shortness of the crops usually tran-sported to market by the works of that Company; by the reduction of the rate of its tolls; as well as by various casualitie.s; which it is to be hoped will not again occur. When these causes shall cease to operate, the income of this Company will be augmented of course; and if ever its annual resources shall suffice to meet ail its annual engagements, it must become a most valuable institution, not only to all tho.se who may then be directly interested in it, but to the public and to the Treasury; provided this income be made liable to the reimbursement of the principal, and to the payment of the interest, of the debt due by the company, for which debt the Com- monwealth is ultimately bound," 94 GENERAL DESCRIPTION bly, an act was passed, empowering the Corporation to borrow, on the cre- dit of the Commonweahh, for the purpose of the road, a further sum not exceeding $86,000. "Under the authority given to it by these several acts, the Corporation has borrowed the sum of $121,000 only, as yet, which may be considered as the present capital stock of this institution. For the payment of the in- terest, and the final redemption of the principal of all the sums borroAved, the nett proceeds and surplus tolls which may arise from the road, after keeping the same in repair, were pledged and appropriated, by the terms of the charter. But should these funds be found inadequate, the General As- sembly has stipulated to provide other and sufficient revenues for these pur- poses; and until such other sufficient funds shall be provided by law, so much of the revenue of the Board of Public Works, not otherwise appro- priated, is pledged, as maybe necessary to supply the deficiency. "Although great progress has been made towards the completion of this Avork, it is not yet finished. No profi.ts, therefore, have been derived from it; but it has hitherto acted as a drain of the income of the Board of Public Works, whose revenue is bound to provide for the payment of the interest on the capital borrowed. It is expected, however, that this improvement will be so far completed during the next year, that it may then be made produc- tive; and Avhen finished, but little doubt is entertained, that the income de- rived from its tolls, will not only keep it in repair, and satisfy the interest on the capital borrowed to construct the work, but v>ill suffice, in time, to re- imburse the lenders of this capital. It will then become a valuable fiscal agent." Railroads, thouo-li but of late introduction into the United States, have attracted considerable attention in Virginia ; one has been lately executed styled the Chesterfield Railroad, near Richmond. The results of this road are more brilliant m proportion to its extent, than those of any similar work in the Union. It is about 13 miles long, and connects the coal-mines of Chesterfield with tide-water. The whole capital invested in it, including cars for transportation, stables, horses, i&c. was $150,000. The trade on it is already 50,000 tons per annum, and the receipts for transportation du- ring the year 1833 were 870,000. The stock is of course at a high premium. The Petersburg and Roanoke Railroad was the second which went into operation in the state, which it did in midsummer 1833; the cars running daily between its extreme points. This road commences at Petersburg, and extends 60 miles a little W. of S. to Weldon, in N. Carolina, and the foot of the falls of Roanoke river; the line is very direct, and the graduation in no place exceeds 30 feet per mile, and the curves have radii of from 2 to 4 miles. Great part of the profit arising from this road is derived from the transportation of persons. The Avork was began on the line in 1831, and completed June, 1833, aggr , ..„,.,, ,, 2;),150 00 298,G11 11 \ ^^'"\^^^ 1* 185,373 03 .50.000 00 230,575 00 5!):{,G53 40 1,890,098 03 1)42,2G4 51 1,159.601 43 2,833/262 54 Total amount of the fund fur internal improvement, - 45,739 83 ^2,879,002 37 96 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The receipts into the treasury from 1st Octo- ber, 1833, to 30th September, 1834, in- cluding the bahince on hand the iirst mentioned date (ii;25,077 59) amounted lo - - 338,190 64 The disbursements during the same period were, 292,450 81 Leaving in the treasury, as above stated, $45,739 83 The probable receipts during the year end- ing 30th September, 1835, including the present balance on hand, Avill amount to - - 288,227 83 The probable charges and appropriations, under present engagements, will be, . . - 353,600 27 Leaving a probable deficiency of - - - S65,372 44 250 7947 3381 500 231 82 125 Permanent Funds, 30th September, 1834. 125i shares in the Little river turnpike company, at par, 12,550 00 James river turnpike CO. " 50,000 00 Bank of Virginia, " 794,700 00 Farmers' Bank of Virginia, " 338,100 00 Bank of the Valley, " 90,000 00 North-western bank of Virginia, « 23,100 00 Swift run gap turnpike co. " 4,100 00 Upper Appomattox co. " 12,500 00 Certificates of James river co. 6 per cent, loans, 50,000 00 Amount producing revenue, 1,375,050 00 70 shares in the Dismal swamp canal company, at par, 17,500 00 70 " Chesapeake and Ohio canal company, (formerly stock of Potomac CO.) - 31,111 11 2500* " Ches'apeake an I Ohio canal company, (state subscription of 1833,) - - 250,000 00 Amount unproductive, 298,611 11 Total amount, *il;l,673,661 11 * Note. — Amount reported last year, 1,423,661 11 Add the state's subscription to the Chesapeake and Ohio canal company , " transferred to, and vested in" the fmid for internal improvement, by the act of March 8th, 1834, 2,500 shares, or 250,000 00 $1,673,661 11 OF VIRGINIA. 97 > 3 <2 ■^ JB 3 •/ ta Jci « 3 » P Cdc c I — ' -J '^ C 3 D CL, en f^ eg o o f^ O O 3 § S^ ►-333 CD o '^ o ^ ?;-2-i^ ~^ 5-/ 3 s- 2 « C? »- ^ VI < E: > &-=-' = c 3 S ^S^p'^ r» :; 3 s^ ^ ^ c 3 •< •■< ■" 'H. ' =^ H-. O CD 3- Cid3 p o 3 3 O ^ >-►. o o . 1-4 3 ? CB O E 3- ro fD ^ttf ^^ p 3 -^3_^ CD :/) ^ k 3 p o 3 g :2 2 ^ f^ J2 3-3 ? t! ^3^2. cro 5 S 2 X- a- o -! S P CTQ P CO ^ I^P 3 ^►^ CO 3-T3 Ct) 7) P C5 .?-• -J p 3 „ p si 3 ■TS p o P p 3 3 3 3 "^ ^ ^ ^ P .. ,o'M 3 3035- 3-:i ^ '^ 3l"^ 3 r^ -^ P TS 3 S S ?" 5- CD tc) cd w "Tj p p p p 333-! ~ PT" ?r 3 0002 i^-S ^ ■*i ~ cr o o' 3 :^- en fa 3 p 2 ■§. -^ ^ S; o' ^2 2.0 -=* C» P ra^^° ^^ ^<^'2 CO t;- '-;■ s' ^•3 !3 ? (ij 3 ^3 PXS p 2.0. 3a 2 5- ^. o N <-♦ &5 O 00 CO Si C5 00 1-^ i-" 10 K) ut 4:k h- yi «» o X o X *» o_o _p JO ►— o cs '-- 'L^ ' o "o "o "oT ' o "o "o "x "o bo "o ■'>-' ^oooo-tooeooooo WOOOOOtOOSSOOCOO OpOOOOOOOpQOOO 98 C4ENERAL DESCRIPTION tSMiC5t:)ar)tSfD_>-« O S 3 t— 1 o til 05 m P- tn CO , H a 1— I H d H t— I o O^} o o w o ^! to w JO --1 GO iO OcF^3P-npgBg^„2 •^ppo^o;, ^^p £; So ^o S''3 iB's i§l l^^;^- ■-! § S p S Q 2 r^ a o pre 2 o (D 2 ^- i^ S „ B t« 1 S p I t^2 ^ p^ P C'Ti P !-■ 3 1 -T' JO „*'„>-'^Wjw U< J-* -1 jf^ O^OCntOOOfeilO'^ Oh— oocioooots Oo^OOWOOOOO JO O OJO_7-} o_ojo oj^ W I— iO lO «■ 1-' i-i -OOt0OOOOQDOO O^JOOCTSOOCOOOO o^oowooooooo OF VIRGINIA 99 MANUFACTURES. Few countries possess greater advantages than Virginia, for success in manufacturing; she has hibour sufllciently cheap and abundant, inexhaus- tible supplies of fuel, and almost unlimited water-power. But planting and farming continue the fivourite pursuits; her citizens seeming unwilling to invest their capital in enterprizes new and hazardous, and for which they liave not been rendered competent by their habits and education. There are however extremely valuable flour mills, and some nail, cotton and other manufactories at Richmond, of which a more detailed account will be given when we speak of that city. In speaking of Wheeling in the N. W. part of the state, we shall give an account of her manufactories of coUon and woollen cloths, glass, iron, nails, porter, &.c. which are nume- rous and valuable. The salt works on the Kanawha produce annually about 12,00,000 bushels of salt, and the amount is only limited by the de- mand; those on Holston produce from 150,000 to 200,000; and there are others on a smaller scale which will be noticed in their proper places. AGRICULTURE. There is great diversity in the agriculture of the state, but it is for the Tttost part badly conducted. The old practice of cuUivating land every year until exhausted, and then leaving it to recover from its own resources, still continues in many places. In others the three shift S3'Stem prevails ; — that is first a crop of Indian corn, second, wheat, rye or oats, and third — the year of rest as it is erroneously called, but in which in fact the stock are permitted to glean a scanty subsistence from the spontaneous vegetation; — after which it is again subjected to the scourging process of cultivation, while little attention is paid to the application of manures or the artificial grasses. This destructive system for the most part prevails from the sea board to the head of tide-water, and on the south side of James River to the Blue Ridge. On the north side of that river, especially towards the Poto- mac, cultivation is much better ; a regular system of rotation in crops is at- tended to; grass seeds, generally red clover, (trifolium pratense) are sown on the small grain; animal and vegetable manures are saved with care and judiciously applied, gypsum is used to great extent and with very powerful effect. In the valley district, also a good system of cultivation is pursued ; and irrigated meadows are common, and very productive. On both sides of the Blue Ridge, maize or Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, and buck wheat are the principal grain crops. Tobacco is the principal staple of most of eastern Virginia, but in the Valley is cuUivated only in its southern por- tion, — and not at all beyond the Alleghany. The grasses common to both regions are the red clover (trifolium pratense,) orchard grass (dactylis glo- merata) timothy (phleum pratensa,) and herds grass, (alopecurus praten- sis,) the two former arc cultivated on dry, the laUer on moist soils. In the eastern and southern counties, cotton is planted to considerable extent. On the shores of the Chesapeake barley and the castor oil bean (ricinus com' munis) arc cultivated; and on some "of the best lands above tide- water hemp is raised to advantage. The Trans- Alleghany country, being exceedingly mountainous, and re- mote from market is chiefly devoted to raising live-stock. No more grain is raised than is sufficient to supply the country itself, and the travellers and stock-drovers who pass through it; but in summer the visitors of the lOO GENERAL DESCRIPTION mineral waters, afford a very considerable market, consuming an immense quantity of provisions. The climate and soil are very favourable to grass, and afford excellent pastures. The greensward and white clover, (trilbliuni ripens) spring up spontaneously wherever the timber is removed or deaden- ed, and on rich ground are very luxuriant. The cattle are fattened gene- rally on fine pastures of clover and timothy mixed. It is difficult to speak with precision of the profits of agriculture in Vir- ginia, in many instances it yields a bare subsistence to the cultivator, in others a neat income of two or three per cent ; but where the lands are in good heart, careful and judicious husbandry practised, and wheat and to- bacco the principal crops, there is no doubt that Avith slave labour a profit of from 6 to 8 per cent may be annually realized from capital invested; to accomplish this however, great attention and activity are necessary on the part of the proprietor. Lands in the Valley, in consequence of there being fewer slaves, are more equally divided among the whites; the young popu- lation settle more at home, instead of moving to the west — and the lands are generally better cultivated: these circumstances cause land to sell generalFy higher in that section, and the country to be more prosperous, althougli running streams are less frequent and communication with market more difficult and expensive. In 1831 according to official returns 4459 hogshead of tobacco were de- livered from the several warehouses in the state for exportation or manufac- ture, and during the year ending in June 18S2, upwards of 544,000 barrels of flour passed the various inspections. The quantity of flour inspected however constitutes but a very uncertain index of the amount produced. Virginia flour, especially the Richmond brands, stand very high in foreiga markets, and in South America particularly, bear a price far above all other flour. Most of the vegetable productions found in the southern and middle states are common also to Virginia. West of the Alleghany the sugar maple grows in abundance. There are some excellent native grapes, the culture of which it is presumed will claim greater attention, since the win- ters have been found too severe for the foreign vine. The subject of ju- dicious and scientific agriculture is receiving more attention every day. The good work is promoted by agricultural societies, and Mr. Edmund Ruf- fin's valuable production, the Farmer's Register, decidedly the best work upon the subject, published in America. COMMERCE. The value of imports into the state of Virginia, between October 1st 1830, and September 30th 1831, was $488,522, and the domestic produce exported amounted to $4,149,980, — foreign produce exported $489, — total exports $4,150,475. This immense difference between the imports and exports is made up by imports from sister states, the precise amount of which it is im- possible to ascertain, but there is always a balance against us to the credit of our northern friends. At the same time the amount of tonnage employed was as follows : — American entered, 2,2933, foreign entered, 9,983 — total entered, 32,916. departed, 48,719, " departed. 1 1,879— total departed, 60,598. OF VIRGINIA, 101 FISCAL CONCERNS. We s;\ve bolow from the last Treasurer's Report, the state of the Finances of the Connnonweahh on the termination of the last Fiscal Year. Amount of Receipts and Disbursements on account of the Commoniccalth, in the Fiscal Year, ending tcith the 30th Scpte?n/)( r, 1834. — Also the -.balances to the credit of the Commonwealth at the commencement of the year. RECEIPTS. To balance on hand 1st day of October, 1833, as per last annual report, - - - . - - - $185221 G9 To amounts received in fiscal year, ending with 30lh Septem- ber, 1834, on the following accounts, viz; Arrears of taxes, - - - 2229 07 Clerks of county and corporation courts, 6777 80 Clerks of superior courts, - - 7248 90 Clerks of appeals, ... 199 50 Inspectors of tobacco, ... 4573 32 Miscellaneous receipts, ... 7542 68 Militia fines, ... - 8867 59 Notarial seals, .... 3086 69 Pri\j seals, - - - - 53 20 Penitentiary agent, - - - 7000 00 Register of the land office, - - 5111 15 Revenue taxes of 1833, - - - 318272 74 Revenue taxes of 1834, - - - 23630 64 Redemption of land, - - - 5496 94 Unappropriated land, - - - 2135 19 Washington monument fund, - - 1109 42 To amount received in fiscal year, ending the 30th Sept. 1834, 403334 83 $588556 52 Receipts in each quarter,— 1st, $324897 88; 2d, 25937 43; 3d, 35079 39; 4th, 17420 13. 102 GENERAL DESCRIPTION DISBURSEMENTS. By amounts disbursed in fiscal year, ending with SOth September, 1834, on the following accounts, viz : Arsenals, . . - - Criminal charges, ... Contingent I'und, , - - ■ Contingent expenses courts. Civil prosecutions, Cavalry equipments. Expenses representation, General appropriation, ... General account revenue, General Assembly, Guards in the country, Interest on public debt, Interest on Chesapeake and Ohio canal stock, Jerman Baker, Lunatic hospitals. Militia fines, . . - _ Military contingent, . . . Manufactory of arms, ... Officers of government. Officers of militia, Officers of penitentiary, - - - Penitentiary criminal charges. Penitentiary house expenses. Penitentiary building, ... Pensioners, .... Public guard, . .' _ _ Public warehouses, . - . Public roads, . . . - Revolutionary half pay claims. Repairs of governor's house. Repairs of the armony, Sinking fund, .... Slaves executed, . . . - Slaves transported, Washington monument fund, Warrants on account, ... By amount disbursed in fiscal year, ending SOtli Sept., 1834, By balance on hand 1st October, 1834, Balances" at the end of each quarter, 1st, $394876 48; 2nd, $252352 75; 3d, $177568 17; 4th, $116219 32. 5951 70 32240 20 13828 60 22625 38 47 15 1084 43 599 75 24417 91 28031 00 90140 88 1821 99 2372 35 12588 91 1 80 34500 00 10641 67 1668 76 1280 00 78815 24 3707 40 7826 32 4754 27 3010 96 8319 43 2308 42 19224 92 2842 72 2000 00 12167 00 937 06 1515 01 132 90 3222 00 11190 00 1000 00 4121 07 Sept., 1834, 472337 20 - 116219 32 $588556 52 OF VIRGINIA. 103 REVENUE. The following' tabic taken from the last Audilnis Report, exhibits the amount of Taxes arising on Lots, Lands, S/ares, Horses, Carriages, and on Licenses to Merchants, Pedlars, Keepersof Ordinaries and Houses of Entertainment, and Exhibitors- of Shoivs, tSfc. for 1834: Counties. Totals. \ Isle of Wight, - ■ $1876 54 Accomack, - $3170 68 Jackson, 227 22 Albemarle, G908 33 James City, 670 28 Alleghany, 488 24 Jefferson, 4848 08 Amelia, 2889 24 Kanawha, - 1585 13 Amherst, 3116 85 King George, 1760 75 Augusta, 6717 19 King William, - 2563 03 Bath, 848 07 King and Q.uccn, - 2296 31 Bedford, - 4613 09 T-.ancastor, - 989 70 Berkeley, - 3267 48 Lee, 650 61 Botetourt, - 3760 37 Lewis, 689 91 Brooke, 1287 74 Logan, 176 84 Brunswick, - 3751 56 Loudoun, 8817 32 Buckingham, 5132 87 Louisa, 3840 38 Cabell, 635 66 Lunenburg, 24.52 17 Campbell, - 6697 10 Madison, 2211 51 Caroline, - 4533 33 Mason, 799 17 Charles City, 1413 74 Matthews, - 950 07 Charlotte, - 4361 41 Mecklenburg, 5104 9G Chesterfield, 5252 08 Middlesex, - 806 90 Culpeper, - 3330 94 Monongalia, 1392 52 Cumberland, 2985 88 Monroe, 1203 65 Dinwiddie, 7042 78 Montgomery, 1289 69 Elizabeth City, - 866 58 Morgan, 536 84 Essex, 2423 37 Nanscmond, 2064 18 Fairfax, 2996 18 Nelson, 2787 08 Fauquier, - 7344 28 New Kent, - 1257 88 Fayette, 215 94 Nicholas, 303 3G Floyd, 326 31 Norfolk County, - 3728 33 Fluvanna, - 2132 60 Norfolk Borough, 5723 80 Franklin, - 2194 36 Northampton, 1982 74 Frederick, - 9119 67 Northumberland, 1242 08 Giles, 553 23 Nottoway, - 2580 87 Gloucester, - 2172 50 Ohio, 2819 2.5 Goochland, - 3407 87 Orange, 3852 50 Grayson, 468 97 Page, 1341 42 Greenbrier,. 1671 97 Patrick, 849 31 Greensville, 1983 27 Pendleton, - 1090 98 Halifax, 6178 43 Pittsylvania, 5265 82 Hampshire, 2411 92 Pocahontas, 373 29 Hanover, - 4689 40 Powhatan, - 2792 87 Hardy, 2609 49 Preston, 492 27 Harrison, - 1708 27 Princess Anne, - 1907 50 Henrico, 14106 68 Prince Edward, - 3814 89 Henry, 1201 96 Prince George, - 1941 49 104 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Prince William, Randolph, - Rappahannock, Richmond, - Rockbridge, Rockingham, Russell, Scott, Shenandoah, Southampton, Spottsylvania, Stafford, 52668 639 1 898 1177 3195 4928 669 524 3534 3096 4103 2025 Surry, Sussex, Smyth, Tazewell, - Tyler, {no re turns,) •Warwick, - Washington, Westmoreland, Williamsburg, Wood, Wythe, York-, $1257 49 2711 55 989 04 727 55 350 74 2286 10 1560 26 382 16 1190 11 1901 42 823 45 Total amount of taxes included in above table, Tax on licenses to merchants, brokers, jewellers and auctioneers, _ - . . Ditto to pedlars, . - . - Ditto to ordinary keepers. Ditto to houses of private entei'tairnnent. Ditto to venders of lottery tickets, - Ditto to shows, - - . . Deduct as the estimated amount of insolvents, overcharges, unascertained lands, and lands purchased for the com- monwealth, ... . . - . . Deduct sheriffs' commissions of 5 per cent. 19493 20 Ditto ditto of 2^ per cent, for prompt payment, - - . . G871 09 le, $291580 67 68346 66 6455 42 16636 41 3305 20 4129 69 2310 00 101283 88 392864 05 3000 00 Add estimated nctt amount from the county of Tyler, 389864 05 26364 29 363499 76 580 00 $364079 76 BANKS. State of the B'nik of the Valley, iyiduding its Officers of Bisconnt and Deposite, on the 2d day of December, 1833. Specie, Notes of other banks, Due from other banks Bills and notes dis- > counted, ^ Bond account, Real estate, $133,257 33 127,398 94 222,823 50 1,229,333 /.) 1,036 88 80,445 91 $1,794,196 31 Capital stock. Notes in circulation, Due to other banks, Discount, Contingent fund, Deposite money, 690,000 00 875.185 00 12,068 27 31,461 52 34,738 17 150,743 35 $1,794,196 31 Deposits money ;- Richmond, Norfolk, Petersburg,. Fredericksburg, - Lynchburtg, Winchester, Danville,, 201,427 8t 73,239 66, 1.28,188 15. 81ik,080 29> 91,161 43; 137,383 33 75,746 22 94704 47 18,036 14' 261 66 1,225,373 54 Total $5,241,169 6Q, Statement of bad and dbubiful debts due the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, on the Ut January, 1:834; and also the contingent fund: Bad debt last year, - - - ^ . Doubtful, -.--... Contingent fund, Profit in stock. Deficiency, Bad debt as above. Extinguished during the year, Doubtful as above. 105,0r5 14 53,038 50-- 178,833 45 155,231 26. $334,064 71 — 158,053 64 176,011 07 178,833 45 46,507 53 132,325 93 155,231 26 OF VIRGINIA. f09 Contingent faad, including January, 1834, Pnofit on 502 shares of stock, valued at par, Total bad and doubtful debt provided for, 159,488 39 15,608 50- 287,550 18 — 175,090 89 $112,400 30 Prom which should be deducted wliatevcr may be received, from debts reported doubtful, and any gain by loss of notes in circulation. Amount of debts contracted at the Farmers' Bank of Virginia and its Branches, during the year 1833, and which remained unpaid on 1st Janu- ary, 1834. Bank at Richmond, . . . - . 905,387 13 Fredericksburg, . _ _ . 490,180 23 Petersburg, - - - . . 357,122 20 Norfolk, - - - - - 170,103 62 " Winchester, - ... - 90,047 00 $2,090,900 24 Sla;te of the Farmers'' Bank of Virginia, including the branches Ist January, 1834. Debts outstanding, Specie, Foreign Notes, - Bank Stock, Real Estate, 4,471.330 32 375,208 91 128,929 31 34,591 50 231,043 65 $5,241,109 09 Profits of Richmond, 13 58 per cent. Norfolk, 3 L8 Petersburg, 1 1 08 Fredericksburg, 12 41 Winchester, 71 Danville, 3 97 Aggregate profits, 1 07 Contingent fund, 159,488 39 Stock, Notes in circulation, Due to other banks, Deposite money, 2,000,000 00. 1,817,008 00« 128,188 15. 1,225,373 54 $5,241,109 09i In this estimate, the profits on bank stock purchased some years ago, and! sold in 1833, are not included, not belonging to the usual business esti- mated — but being actually received, add that to the current profits, and the- profits of Richmond, are 21 OOpr. ct. Norfolk, 4 10 " REMARKS. Arrangement -pursued in the descrqilion of counties. We have now completed our " General Description of Virginia ;" having presented in the first part a view of Natural Virginia, comprehending her Situation, Boundaries, Extent, Face of the Country, Mineralogy and C4eol- ogy, Scenery and Natural Curiosities, Mountains, Bays, Harbours, Rivers, &c. and in the second, her Moral and Political Condition: — under which head we included, Population, Religion, Government and Laws, Arms and Military Organization, Provisions for the Insane, Penitentiary, Inter- nal Improvement, Manufactures, Agriculture, Commerce, and Fiscal Con- cerns. We now proceed to give a more detailed account of the same sub- jects, taking the State, County, by County, in alphabetical order, and giving the origin of the county, an accurate and generally minute account of its topography, and a detail of the number, occupation, &c. of its Citizens, and of each Town and Village. In order to present a more condensed and connected view, than would have been possible by taking the counties of the whole State at once into consideration, in the confused order which an al- phabetical arrangement would present ; and as that arrangement was abso- lutely necessary for covenience of reference, we have divided the State into Eastern and Western Virginia, at the Blue Ridge, and made an alphabeti- cal arrangement of the counties of each portion separately. The Toic?is, Villages, Post OJices, (^-c. are arranged in Alphabetical order in the coun- ties to which they respectively belong; the County Town, and other places of more than usual importance, being distinguished by a larger type. An Alphabetical Index of all the places mentioned, and general subjects treated of, is at the end of the volume. Under the head of Eastern Virginia, we will consider all of the counties east of the Blue Ridge. EASTERN ^ IRCIMA. AC COM AC. Tins county was created by act of Assembly in 1G72, and fovmod out of part of Northampton Co. It is the northernmost of the two counties which compose the "Eastern Shore of Virginia," and extends from the Atlantic to the Chesapeake. It is bounded E. by the Atlantic, S. by Northampton Co. W. by Chesapeake bav, N. W. by Pocomoke bay, and N. by Worcester Co. Md. It extends from »7° 28' to 38° 2' N. lat. and from 1° 24' tol° 46' E. long, from Washington. Its greatest length is from S. S. W. to N. N. E. 48 m's.its mean width about 10 m's., its area 480 sq. miles. Much of its surface is composed of sand-banks and islands upon the coast, its real arable superficies is only about 400 sq. miles, much of which is fertile, and the surface level. It produces well, wheat, corn, cotton, oats, &cc. and peas, beans, potatoes, and other table A^egetables in great abundance. Population in 1820, 15,9GG, in 1830, 19,656, of the latter 4,495 were white males, 4,969 white females, and the rest people of colour. This county belongs to the third judicial circuit and second district: — Taxes in 1832-3, $3,081 22; in 1833-4, on lots $52 34— land, $1,858 87 ;— on 2385 slaves, $594 25,-2522 horses, $151 32—9 studs, $131 00—16 coaches, $33—31 carryalls, $36 70—461 gigs, $3 11 20— total $3170 68. Amount expended in educating poor children, in 1832, $592 22 — in 183^, $692 92. TOWNS, VILLA C4ES, POST-OFFICES, &c, ACCOMAC C. H. or I)nnnmon.ds-\'n\ March, Jimc, August and Norem- Tow)i, is situated 214 m's. E. of R. \ber. Judge Upshur holds his Cir- and 206 S. E. of W. in lat. 47°. 54, cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- Besides a brick Court House and eery on 12/A rv/ iVf(7_?/, and t5//t ^>/ Oc- Jail, the town contains a Methodist Uo/'e/'. house of worship, and 39 dwelling Bell Haven, P. O. 226 m's. S. E. houses. There is one common school |of W. and 194 from R. situated in the in the place, and 4 attorneys, 2 phy-|S. E. part of the county, 20 m's. from sicians, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tQ.m-\e-\DnimmoncVs Town, and 194 S. S. E. ry, 2 saddle and harness makers, 3 of Annapolis. tailors, 3 cabinet makers, 1 watch and j IIorntown, P. V. 180 m's. S. E. clock maker, 1 carriage maker, 2 of W. and 240 from R. situated on a boot and shoe factories; and 3 grist .navigable stream, by Avhich vessels mills in the vicinity. Population 240. drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, as- C'Tiiiiit/ Cawrts, are held on the /as/ 'ccnd within a mile of the town, and on .1/o«'/«v/ of every mouth: — Quarter! //, the post road leading from Drum- 112 EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. motUs Toion to Snow Hill, 26 m's. ' N. N. E, from the former and 16 N. W. of the latter. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house -of worship, 1 common school, 2 taA'crns, and 4 mercantile stores, 1 house carpenter, 1 hatter, 1 w'heel- Avright, 1 tanyard, 2 shoe and boot manufactories, and 1 milliner and mantuamaker.. Population 150. Modest Town, P. V. 192 m's. from W. and 248 from R. situated 10 ■miles east of Drummondstown, 2 from navigable tide-water, and 3 from 'the Atlantic Ocean. It contains 6 dwelling houses, 1 Bapti-st, and 1 Me- thodist house of worship, 1 Sabbath •school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, '1 boot and shoemaker, 1 smith shop. Population 43 persons ; of whom 1 is n physician. This place abounds with fish, oysters and clams. The sod in the neighbourhood is fertile, and |produce.s well corn, wheat, rye, oats. peas, beans, potatoes and other vcgeJta- bles in great variety. Onancock Creek^ p. -O. 210 m's. S. E. of W. and 209 from R. situated on the Chesapeake shore, 8 m's. S. W. by W. of D ruinmondslown. PuNGOTEAGUE, P. O. 218 m's frOTH W. and 202 from R. situated 1^ miles from the head of Pungdteague creek, and 12 m's. from D rummondsiown. The country around produces in aljuTi- dance, wheat, c&m, oats, cotton, pota- toes, &,c. The trade from the creek of this name employs five Tegular coasting vessels. The population off the village is 100, it contains 1 physi- cian. There are 20 dwelling liouses, 1 Methodist and 1 Episcopalian house of worship, a common school, a ta- vern, a grist mill, a mercantile store, tanyard, tailor, boot and shoemaker, and a smith shop. Warrant tryings are held here on the 3d Monday ia every month. ALBEMARLE, This county was created by the Legislature in 1744, from a patt of Goochland County. It is bounded N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which sep- ■arates it from Augusta and Rockingham, N. E. by the southern part of C)range, E. by Louisa and Fluvanna, S. by James River which separates it •from Buckingham, and S. W. by Nelson. Its length from S. W. to N. ^E. is 35 miles, its mean width 20, and area 700 sq. m's. The parallel of N. slat. 38^ passes very nearly through the centre of the county, which is likewise the case with long. 1° 30' W. of Washington. The northern part of this courity is drained by the Rivanna and its constituent creeks, Avhich 'uniting below Charlottesville, pass through the South West Mountain, and enter Fluvanna some miles below. The southern portion of the >county is drained by the waters of the Hardware, which rises by 2 branches, the one in North Garden, and the other in South Garden, which uniting at the foot of the S. W. Mountain flow between the portions of it known by the local name of Carter's and Green-Mountain, and passes also into Flu- vanna, before its junction with James River. There is little of the soil of Albemarle absolutely barren, and in the mountain valleys, and river or creek bottoms it is exceedingly fertile, whilst the undulating hills which intervene are susceptible of almost unlimited improvement by judicious cultivation. The scenery in all parts of the county is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque; we know of no portion of the state which presents such a number and variety of beautiful prospects as EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 113 may be seen from the hills of Albemarle. This county belongs to the twelfth judicial circuit and sixth district. Population in 1820, 19,750 — in 1830, 2-2,618. Taxes paid in 1S32-3, $G,842 58—1833-4, on lots $335- 43— lands $4,092 05 ; on G439 slaves, $1,G09 75— 527G horses, $3 IG 5G — IG studs, $239 34— 9G coaches, $243 75—43 carryalls, $43 50—47 gigs, $29 35 — Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $590 74 — in 1834, $805 37. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, «kc. Batesville, P. O. and ^Zec^ionjabout 20 general mercantile establish- Prccinct, generally called OZzrer'slments. There is 1 Female Acade- Old Store, situated on the Scottsvillelmy, in which young ladies are taught and Staunton turnpike, 20 m's. from [all the useful branches of education, the former^ and 25 from the latter. It -as well as the elegant accomplish- has 12 scattering dwelling houses, 3 mcnts, it is Avell conducted and flou- general stores, 1 tan yard and 1 rishing, having generally from 30 to blacksmith shop. In the vicinity 40 pupils; there is also an elementary there is 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist school for boys; and a school to pre- house of worship. The population is pare youths for the University is 70; of whom 1 is a phj'sician Brown's Cove, P. O. 109 m's. N. W. of R., and 136 from AV. situated in the northern part of the county. Brooksville, p. O. situated at the about to be established on a perma- nent footing by a young gentleman said to be entirely competent to its proper management: if such be the case it will certainly flourish, as such junction of the Rivanna and Rockfishja school is much wanted, and the tem- turnpike with the Scottsville andporary schools hitherto established Staunton turnpike ; 101 m's. N. W of have met with remarkable success. R, and 20 S. W. of Charlottesville. The town has a circulating library of Carter's Bridge, P. O. situated at the passage of Hardware through S. W. Mountain, 133 m's. Washinnton, and 91 from R. CHARLOTTESVILLE, P. T. and county scat, 123 m's. S. W. from Washington, and 81 N. W. by W. from R. It is beautifully situated, N. lat. 38° 3', long. 1° 5' W. of Washington, a mile east of the Uni versity of Virginia, and 3 m's. N. W well selected books. An Agricultural Society which from boasts among its members the princi- pal farmers of this and the neighbour- ing counties, holds its semi-annual meetings here ; at the fall meetmg there is an exhibition of live stock, and. domestic fabrics, and premiums are awarded for the best productions. The mechanical occupations are as follows: — 1 printing office, issuing a from Monticello, in a fertile and welljweekly paper, and frequently engaged Avatercd valley, on the right bank ofjin books and pamphlets, 4 tailoring the Rivanna river, at the intersection establishments Avhich give employ- of the main post roads leading from ment to a number of hands, 3 tan Lynchburo-, Staunton, and Lexing-lyards, 3 saddlers, 1 tin plate worker, ton, to Washington, Alexandria and|2 cabinet makers, 3 wheelwrights, 1 Richmond. It contains besides the chair maker, house and sign painter, ordinary county buildings, 1 Episco-|2 coach and gig manufectories, 2 palian, "l Presbyterian, 1 Baptist, and jewellers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 Methodist house of worship, 3 large which employs a number of hands, ^1 and commodious hotels, 1 tavern, 2 hatter, 2 confectioners, 4 blacksmith s bookstores, 2 druggist's stores, and'shops, 1 brick yard, 2 book binders, 15 114 EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLfi. several house carpenters, bricklayers,; Superior Court of Law and Chancer/ &,c. The professional men are 6 at- torneys at law, 6 physicians and 3 surgeon dentists. The whole popu- lation by an accurate census recently taken expressly for this work is 957; viz : white naales 290 — females 260 — free blacks 59 — slaves 348. The village is provided with a fire engine, and company attached; and boasts a large and well disciplined corps of volunteers. The navigation of the Rivanna has recently been opened by locks and dams, and boats with their lading can now ascend to on the \Of/i of Map, and \Oth of Oc- tober. CovEsvlLLE, P. V. 145 m's. S. W. of W., and 103 N. W. by W. of R., situated in the western part of the county, 22 m's. from Charlottesville, on the stage road leading from that place to Lynchburg. It contains sev- eral dwelling houses, 1 general store, 1 house of entertainment, 1 tan yard, 1 milliner and mantua, maker, and 1 Presbyterian house of warship. Pop- ulation 30. Dyer's Old Store, P. O. 13S Pireus, within a" mile and a quarter m's. S. W. of W. and 96 from R. of Charlottesville, Avhich is a depot Everettsville, P. O. 116 m's. for the produce of the northern and S W. of W., and 74 from R.; it con- middle part of this county, part of Au- gusta, and Avill be for Rockingham and the counties beyond it, when a road which has been located and com- menced from Charlottesville to Har- risonburg shall have been completed. A neat and permanent covered bridge has recently been erected at a cost of $4,000 over the Rivanna River, on the post road leading from Charlottes ville to Alexandria, D. C. Several lines of daily stages pass through this town. Charlottesville is a heahhy place, and for the most part compactly though irregularly built, the houses are generally of brick, of which there are about 200, large, handsome, and comfortable dwellings. The surface on which the town stands is elevated from 5 to 700 feet above the tide of the ocean, and the vicinity is salubri- ous, and the soil fertile, producing in abundance, wheat, corn, oats, tobacco, &c. In the neighbourhood are seve- ral extensive flour manufacturing, grist, and saw mills, and 2 carding machines. The country around is thickly settled, abounding with hand- some and valuable farms, well culti- vated and rapidly improving. County Courts are held on the 1*'/ Monday in every month; — Quarterly, March, June, August, and Novemhcr. Judge Thompson opens his Circuit tains a tavern, 1 general store, a blacksmith's and a wheelwright's shop. Earlysville, is pleasantly situ- ated 1^ m's. E. of Longwood, and 13 N. of Charlottesville. It contains 7 dwellings, 1 tavern, 1 general store, 1 tailor, 1 wheelwright, 1 black- smith's shop, and 1 tan yard. Popu- lation 35. Garland's Store, P. O. 137 m's. from W., and 95 from R. Hardin's Tavern, P. O. 130 m's. S. W. of W., and 88 from R., situated 8 miles W. of Charlottesville; near it the Methodists have a house of wor- ship called Shiloe. Hydraulic Mills, P. O. 112 S. W. of W. and 100 W. of R., 6 miles from Charlottesvile. Laurel Spring, P. O. 167 m's. from W., and 25 m's. W. of Char- lottesville. LiNDSEv's Store, P. O. 76 m's. W. of R. and 108 from W. LoNGWooD, P. V. 94 m's. N. W. by W. of R. and 136 S. W. of W. it has several dwelling houses. Popu- lation 30. One physician. Milton, 120 ms. S. W. of W. and 81 N. W. by W. of R. and 6 miles S. E. of Charlottesville: — situated on the right bank of the Rivanna, and a mile and a half from the main stage EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE. 115 road leading from Charlottesville to Richmond. It was formerly a place of some trade, being the head of boat navigation, but the imperfect state of the navigation and the competition of Scottsvilje and Charlottesville have caused it to go to ruin. It contains 16 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 1 tanyard; — It has a plea- sant and romantic situation, upon a high spur or abutment of Monticello mountain, which places it far above the level of the river. — On the oppo- site side of the river, there is a Bap- tist cliurch and a grist mill. Popu- lation 60 whites and 10 free blacks. Moreman's River, P. O. 143 ms, from W. and 104 from R.— N. W. of Charlottesville, and in the N. W. an-j gle of the county; it has a house of private entertainment, one general store and a blacksmith shop. Monticello. — We have seen no where so true, so accurate, or so beau- tiful a description of the dwelling place of the Great Apostle of Liberty, as in Wirt's " Eulogy upon Adavis and Jcjfcrsoti.^^ We are glad to have an opportunity of relieving the tedium of drj' statistic detail, by so rich a specimen of taste. " Let us now turn for a moment to the patriot of the South. The Roman morallist, in that great work which he has left for the government of man in all the offices of life, has descended even to prescribe the kind of habitation in which an honored and distingviished man should dwell. It should not, he says, be small, and mean, and sordid : nor, on the other hand, extended with profuse and wanton extravagance. It should be large enough to receive and accom- modate the visiters which such a man never fails to attract, and suited in its ornaments, as Avell as in its dim.en- sions, to the character and fortune of the individual. Monticello has now lost its great charm. '• Those of you who have not alrea- dy visited it, will not be very apt to visit it hereafter: and from the feel- ings which you cherish for its depart- ed owner, I persuade myself that you will not be displeased with a brief and rapid sketch of that abode of domes- tic bliss, that temple of science. Nor is it, indeed, foreign to the express pur- pose of this meeting, which, in look- ing to 'his life and character,' natu- rally embraces his home and his do- mestic habits. Can any thing be in- different to us, which was so dear to him, and which was a subject of such just admiration to the hundreds and thousands that were continually re- sorting to it, as an object of pious pil- grimage? " The Mansion House at Monti- cello Avas built and furnished in the days of his prosperity. In its dimen- sions, its architecture, its arrangements and ornaments, it is such a one as be- came the character and fortune of the man. It stands upon an elliptic plain, formed by cutting down the apex of a mountain ; and, to the west, stretching away to the north and the south, it commands a view of the Blue Ridge for a hundred and fifty miles, and brings under the eye one of the bold- est and most beautiful horizons in the world ; while on the east, it presents an extent of prospect bounded only by the spherical form of the earth, in which nature seems to sleep in eter- nal repose, as if to form one of her finest contrasts with the rude and rol- ling grandeur of the Avest. In the wide prospect, and scattered to the north and south, are several detached mountains, which contribute to ani- mate and diversify this enchanting landscape; and among them, to the south Willis's mountain,* which is * This mountain, which is in the county of Buckingham, at a distance of 70 miles from R. consists of two conical peaks jut- ting from the plain, which often at sunrise on a clear morning, assume every possible variety of lorm, and in each appears so natural, that one seeing it for the first time, would suppose each its natural shape. This beautiful illusion is produced by the rising of the clouds towards the summit of th^ rnountain. on the rising of the sun. IIG EASTERN VIRC4INIA— ALBEMARLE. so interestingly depicted in liis Notes. From this summit, the Philosopher was wont to enjoy that spectacle, among the sublimest of Nature's operations, the looming of the distant mountains; and to watch the motions of the plan- ets, and the greater revolution of the celestial sphere. From this summit, too, the patriot could look down with uninterrupted vision, upon the wide expanse of the world around, for which he considered himself born ; and up- ward to the open and vaulted heavens, which he seemed to approach, as if to keep him continually in mind of his high responsibility. It is indeed a prospect in which you see and feel, at once, that nothing mean or little could live. It is a scene fit to nourish those great and high-souled principles which formed the elements of his cha- racter, and was a most noble and ap- propriate post for such a sentinel, over the rights and liberties of men. "Approaching the house on the east, the visiter instinctiv^ely paused to cast around one thrilhng glance at this magnificent panorama: and then passed to the vestibule, where, if he had not been previously informed, he would immediately perceive that he was entering the house of no common man. In the spacious and lofty hall which opens before him, he marks no tawdry and unmeaning ornaments : but before, on the right, on the left, all around, the eye is struck and grati- fied by objects of science and taste, so classed and arranged as to produce their finest effect. On one side, spe- cimens of sculpture set out in such order, as to exhibit at a 'coup d' Oil, the historical progress of that art, from the first rude attempts of the ab- origines of our country, up to that ex- quisite and finished bust of the great patriot himself, from the master hand of Caracci. On the other side the visiter sees displayed a vast collection of specimens of the Indian art, their paintings, weapons, ornaments, and manufactures; on another an array of the fossil productions of our conntrj', mineral and animal; the polished re- mains of those colossal monsters that once trod our forests, and are no more ; and a variegated display of the branch- ing honors of those 'monarchfi of the waste,' that still people the wilds of the American Continent. " From this hall he was ushered into a noble saloon, from which the glorious landscape of the west again bursts up- on his view; and Avhich, whhin, is hung thick around with the finest pro- ductions of the pencil- — historical paintings of the most striking svibjects, from all countries, and all ages; the portraits of distinguished men and patriots, both of Europe and America, and medallions, and engravings in endless profusion. " While the visiter was yet lost in the contemplation of these treasiires of the arts and sciences, he was start- led by the approach of a strong and sprightly step, and turning Avith in- stinctive reverence to the door of en- trance, he was met by the tall, and ani- mated, and stately figure of the pat- riot himself — his countenance beam- ing with intelligence and benignity, and his outstretched hand, Avith its strong and cordial pressure, confirm- ing the courteous welcome of his lips. And then came the charm of manner and conversation that passes all de- scription — so cheerful — so unassum- ing — so free, and easy, and frank, and kind, and gay, — that even the young and overawed, and embarrassed visiter forgets his fears, and felt himself by the side of an old and familiar friend." Mr. Jefierson states in his Notes that Monticello is 500 feet above the Rivanna which runs at its base; it is the most northern of the portion of the South West mountain, called by the local name of Carter's mountain. The late proprietor injured the ap- pearance of Monticello very much by cutting doAvn the beautiful shade and ornamental trees for the purpose of cultivation; but it is believed that the EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALIiEMARLE. 117 deep venovation ontortaint'il by tlie pro- stMil owiuT for the cliaracter of Mr. JetTiTSon, and the respect he enter- tains even for the inanimate objects associated with his memory, will lead him to restore it, as far as possible to the condition in which he left it, and attend carefnlly to the preservation of every object which conld be supposed to have occupied hisattention, or added beauty to his residence. The curiosi- ties of which Mr. Wirt speaks were presented to the University of Virgi- nia, the painting's we believe were sold, the bust was bought by Congress. — A simple massive granite obelisk marks the grave of Jeiferson, Avhh the unostentatious inscription written by himself, which speaks only of being the "Author of the Declaration of Independence, and the Founder of the University of Virginia;" thus showing how much more highly the venerable sage regarded the bvirsting of the fetters which bound the free- dom of the people, and the emancipa- tion of the mind from the chains of ignorance, — than all his civic tri- umphs. Mount Alto, P. O. 156 ms. S. W. by W. of W. and 97 ms. from R. Mount Israel P. O. 145 ms. S. W. of W. and 103 from R.— 17 ms. N. W. of Charlottesville. New York, P. V. 143 ms. S. S. W. of W. and 101 from R.— It is situated in the western part of the county, near the foot of the Blue Ridge ; it contains 15 houses, 2 general stores, 1 lanyard, 1 jackscrew manufacturer, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 black- smith's shop — Population 70. ScoTTsviLLE, formerly Scott's Ferry, is 150 miles S. W. of Wash- ington, and 83 W. of Richmond. It is situated on the N. bank of James river, 20 miles W. S. W. of Char- lottesville. This place has improved rapidly in the last 4 years, and is yet a flourishing villa.o-e. It contains 120 houses, chiefly of brick; one Metho- dist and one Presbyterian house of worship, a male and a female school, and two Sunday schools, nine gene- ral and five grocery stores, and one apothecaries shop. The principal manulacturcs arc clothing, leather shoes, cabinet work, and earthen ware. An inspection of flour and tobacco is established in this place, of tlie former the average quantity inspected and sold is 3500 barrels. Scottsville car- ries on an extensiA'e trade in flour, bacon, butter, lard, and other pro- ducts, with the counties of Nelson, Augusta, Rockbridge, Rockingham, Bath, Pendleton, and Pocahontas; these products are exchanged for groceries, gypsum, coarse cotton and woollen cloths and money. The mar- ket of Scottsville is ready and tempt- ing to the producer, the only fault of its enterprising merchants being that they pay prices too liberal for their own prosperity, and this cause only has lateh' given a temporary check to the rising of the town. A tri- weekly line of stages passes through it, communicating with Richmond and Staunton. Scottsville being situ- ated at the extreme north^vestern bend of the navigable water of James river, would probably acquire an immense increase of trade, if the James and Kanawha improvement is carried in- to effect. There is a savings institu- tion in the town. It has two resident attorniesand four regular physicians; its whole population is about GOO. SiiADWELL Mills, — erected by Mr. Jeflerson, on the Rivanna near the spot of his birth ; they carrj^ on an exten- sive business, having a large mer- chant, grist, and saw mill, with a carding machine, &c. The main stage road from Charlottesville to Richmond runs by them. Stoney Point, P. V. 71 ms. N. W. by W. of Richmond, and 113 from Washington — in the N. E. part of the county. University of Viroin'a, P. O. situated one mile W. of Charlottes- ville, 124 W. of S. W. from Wash- 118 EASTERN VIRGINIA— ALBEMARLE, ington, and 82 N. W. by W. of Rich- mond. This institution was founded in 1819, under the immediate super- vision of Mr. Jefferson, and organised in 1825, and had the same year 123 students, and has been gradually in- creasing until in 1834 it had 208, — Its Library contains nearly 10,000 volumes; ils philosophical and chemi- cal apparatus are very complete, and it has a handsome cabinet of mine- rals. There is also an anatomical and a general museum, and an astro- nomical observatory, with the requi- site instruments. The importance of this institution to the state renders it necessary to give a fuller detail of its management and regulations than of similar institutions. Matriculation. — To be admit- ted into the University, the Student must be sixteen years of age ; but the Faculty are authorised to dis- pense with this requisition in the case of application for admission by two brothers, one of whom is under the age of sixteen. If the applicant for admission has been a student at any other incorpor- ated seminary, he cannot be received, but on producing a certificate from such seminary, or other satisfactory evidence to the FacuUy, with respect to his general good conduct. Every Student is free to attend the Schools of his choice, and no other than he choses ; provided, that if un- der the age of twenty-one, he shall attend at least three professors, unless he has the wrhten authority of his parent or guardian, or the Faculty shall, for good cause shewn, allow him to attend less than three. The qualifications of the Student to enter the Schools of Antient Languages, Mathematics, and Natural Philoso- phy, are tested by previous examina- tions. Before a student matriculates, he is furnished with a copy of the laws, which he is required to read. On matriculating, he signs a Avritten de- claration, that he will conform to those laws, and, if he be a resident student, that he has deposited with the Patron all the funds in his possession. Course of Instruction. — In each school, there are three regular lectures a week : besides which, there are in most of them extra lectures suited to the several classes into which the school is divided. The mode of instruction is by text-books and lec- tures, accompanied by rigid examina- tions. The course pursued in each school, is as follows. Ancient Languages. Profes- sor Harrison. — In this school are taught the Latin and Greek Lan- guages, and Literature, and the He- brew Language. The instruction, by prelections and examina- comprises the following sub- given tions, jects; 1. The formation and composition of words, and the laws by which they are governed. 2. The prim.ary and secondary signification of words and the princi- ples by which they must be ascer- tained. 3. Syntax. — The relations which words sustain to each other in a sen- tence, are taught at the same time and in connexion with their endings, the latter serving, with the aid of prepo- sitions, &c., as signs of the former. The importance of attending to the order in which Avords are arranged in a sentence, and of being careful to read the words and members of a sen- tence just as they stand in the Latin and Greek authors, is insisted upon. The other idomatic peculiarities are carefully noticed. 4. Metres and Quantity. — These are objects of constant attention. 5. The Greek and Roman Histo- ry, Geography and Literature, are taught by prelections, and by com- menting on portions of the text-books appointed to be read. These form part of the studies of the senior classes. The text-books are: Eastern Virginia— albemarle. 119 tn the Junior Latin Class: — Ho-icnce is made to Mltford, Gillies, TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. AMELIA C. H., P. O. 169 miles from W. and 47 from R.— in N. Lat. 37° 13' and long. 10° 11' W. of Washington; on the main Danville road leading to Richmond. It con- tains besides the county buildings several dwelling houses, one tavern, & several mechanics. Population 40. Count// Conrtx are held on the fourth Thursday in every month; — quarterly in March, May, August, and November. Judge May holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Lau- and Chancery on the 17 /A of April and September. Deatoxville or Thompson''s ta- vern, P. O. 52 ms. S. W. of R. and 174 from W. — on the C4eneto road; and at the intersection of the roads leading from Petersburgto Farmville, ' — and from Richmond to Prince Ed- ward, — 54 miles W. of Petersburg, 162 of Farmville, 23 N. E. of Prince Edward C. H. and 16 E. of Raine's tavern, on the road leading from Pe- tersburg to Lynchburg: A road from Fredericksburg, also comes in here from the N. W. Dexxes' p. O. 55 ms. S. W. of R. and 177 from W. Elk Hill P. O. 64 ms. S. W. of R. and 156 from W. FixxEY Mills P. O. 52 ms. S. W. of R. and 176 from W. 30 ms. N. of W. from Petersburg, 8 S. E. of Amelia C. H. 7 E. of Dennisvillc, 4 N. of the line of Nottoway county, and 5 W. of Bevil's bridge, across the Appomattox — Situated on Beaver pond creek, a small but constant stream; and one mile N. of Deep creek, — a stream large enough to admit batteaux navigation for 15 miles, from its junc- tion with the Appomattox; the flour from Finney mills is carried in wa- gons to this stream, thence to the Ap- pomattox, thence to Petersburg. — The mills take their name from their for- mer proprietor; they turn two pair of Corn, and the same number of Burr stones; there is a cotton-gin in another house; and a methodist meeting house called the Tabernacle at the spot. The mill is capable of grinding from 20 to 25000 bushels of wheat in the ordinary grinding season. Hallsville, p. O. 33 ms. S. W. of R. and 155 from W. Jetersville p. O. 54 ms. S. W. of R. and 176 from W. LoMBAUDY P. O. 42 ms. S. W. of R. and 164 from W. Maxboro' p. O. 48 ms. N. W. of R. and 170 from W. — situated at the intersection of the road leading from Richmond to North Carolina, and from Petersburg to the west. Office Taverx P. O. in the wes- tern part of the county, 43 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 165 from W. — on the main stage road leading from Farmville to Petersburg, and 4 ms. 128 EASTERN VIRGINIA— AMHERST. N. W. of Amelia a H.— The Clerk's Office of the svperior and county courts is located in this place;— there is also an extensive manufactory of wheat machines, ploughs, &c. — and in the neighborhood, one Presbyte- rian and one Methodist house of wor- ship. The population amounts to 50 persons. Painsville p. V. in the western part of the county— 46 ms. S. W. by W. of R., 168 from W., 12 from Ame- lia C. H., 18 from Genito, and 15 from Jamestown. Painsville contains 7 dwelling houses, — one tavern, — one mercantile store, one wheelwright, — one smiths-shop, — one cabinet maker, -—and one free meeting house. A Baptist church of about 40 white members was established in 1832 near the village. There is also a flourish- ing Methodist church about three miles from the village, and a Presby- terian church about five ms. — There arc Union Sabbath Schools at these churches, and a Female Benevolent Society attached to the Baptist church, which is auxiliary to the B. Educa- tion Society. — This church also con- stitutes an Auxiliary Bible Society, and contributes also to the Baptist As- sociation, and the B. Triennial Con- vention of the U. S. The Presbyte- rian church has a Tract Society. A Temperance Society holds its tneet- mgs in Painsville. The country a- round is thickly settled, and within three miles are two mercantile stores and a cotton factory — One attorney and three physicians reside in Painsville, its whole population is 57, of whom 32 are whites. Wigwam, the residence of the late distinguished William B. Giles, about 62 ms. S. W. of R. and 150 from W. — about three miles from the Appomattox. The buildings are of wood, but prettily and neatly built, and convenient, — the situation is itself pleasant and retired, but does not com- mand a view of much of the sur- rounding country — during Mr. Giles' life he had a large classical school at his residence, provided with excellent teachers. AMHERST. Amherst was created by the Legislature in 1761, from a part of Albe- marle. It is bounded S. W. by Bedford county, or James river; S. by James river or Campbell county; S. E. by James river, or Campbell and Buckingham counties; E. and S. E. by Tye river, or Nelson county; and N. E. by Blue Ridge or Rockbridge county. This county is nearly a pa- rallelogram, 22 by 19 ms; area 418 sq. ms. — It is enclosed on two sides, the S. W. and S. E. by the James river, and entirely drained by the tributaries of that stream. The county generally slopes to the South, its elevation above the Ocean is from 500 to 800 feet ; — The soil is naturally fertile, and of the same dark, rich red, which is found so susceptible of improvement in Albemarle, &c. — but the system of Agriculture is bad; and Avhen the land is exhausted it is generally turned out; and the deep red gulleys washed by the rain fill the traveller Avith feelings of the most gloomy desolation; but it is hoped that the James river improvement by rendering transporta- tion cheaper will induce the farmers to cultivate in wheat, the lands which are now turned out, when too poor for tobacco, and change the appearance of the soil. — The scenery of Amherst is beautifully variegated with mountain, hill, and river. This county belongs to the twelfth judicial EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 129 circuit, and sixth district. Population in 1820, 10,483,— in 1830, 12,071.— Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2,063 62, — in 1833-4, $3,1 16 85. Amount expended in educating poor claildren in 1832, $273 08 — in 1833, $259 06. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. AMHERST C. H., P. V. situated on the stage road leading from Char- lottesville to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from the latter, 136 ms. W. from Richmond, and 180 from Washington, in N. lat. 37° 29', long. 2° 12' W. of W.C. It contains besides the county build- inffs, 14 dwellino- houses, 1 common school, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, and several blacksmith- shops. — Two attorneys and three re- gular physicians reside in this village. Population 130. County Coii.rfs are belfi on the ?>rd Monday in every month; — Quarterly in March, June, August, and Not-em- ber. Judge Thompson holds his Cir- cuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the \st of April and September. Buffalo Springs P. O. 147 ms. W. of R. and 190 from W.— These waters are chalybeate, and attract a good deal of company in summer. Knightsville p. O. 131 ms. from R. and 185 from W. New Glasgow P. V. 132 ms. W. of R. and 175 S. W. of W.— in the N. W. part of the county on an ele- vated place, 20ms. N. N. E. of Lynch- burg. — It contains 21 dwelling houses, one free house of worship, 1 academy, 1 hotel, 4 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 1 Sadler, 1 cabinet maker, 1 wheel- wright, and 1 smith-shop. New Glas- gow is pleasantly situated in a very healthy and picturesque region; — the soil around was originally good and is susceptible of easy and high im- provement. Pedlar Mills P. O. 135 ms. W. of R. and 198 S. W. of W.— in S. W. part of the county, at the junction of Horsley's creek a'nd Pedlar river, on the north side of that river, and 4^ ms. from its junction with the James: — It contains a store, a merchant mill, a tavern, a tailor-shop, a tanyard, and a blacksmith-shop. It has 14 houses and a population of 56 persons; one of whom is a physician. Pedlar river might easily be made navigable to the mills. Pryors Vale P. O. 141 ms. S. W. of R. and 191 from W. Rose Mills P. O. 127 ms. from R, and 170 S. W. of W. Sandridge's p. O. 142 ms. from R. and 185 S. W. of W. Waugh's Ferry P. O. 142 ms. from R. and 205 S. W, of W. BEDFORD. Bedford was created by the Legislature in 1753, out of a part of Lu- nenburo- county. It is bounded E. and S. E. by Campbell county,— S. and S W bv Staunton river, branch of Roanoke, separatmg it from Pittsy va- nia on the S. and Franklin S. W.— W. and N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which separates it from Botetourt; and N. E. by James river, whicii sepa- rates it from Amherst.— Length between the James and btaunton 30 mi.es mean breadth 22,— and area 660 sq. ms.— lat. from 37° to 37° o2 N. and long, from 2° 10' to 2° 50' W. of W. C— This county for the most part inclines to the S. E.— The inclination terminating m the Peaks ot Utter in 17 130 EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. the N. W. part of the county; — from these Peaks elevated 4,260 feet above the Ocean, Bedford slopes towards her two main boundary streams, the James and Roanoke, and has also lesser inclinations towards her two smal- ler streams, Goose creek and Otter river. — The soil is generally well adapted to farming, equal perhaps to any in Virginia, and had it never been doomed to the curse of excessive tobacco cuUure, would not have been surpassed by any portion of the state in improvement. — Tobacco has been the principle staple; but many are now turning their attention to the improvement of their land by clover and plaster, and find them astonishingly successful, and the soil capable of high and rapid improvement. — There is a stratum of red clay which is almost impervious to water, and gives durability to an im- proved soil; — some of the lands on the water-courses are destitute of this quality, and their value is diminished by the defect. The face of the country is generally uneven and in many places broken, especially the south part, from the great western road. The principal streams flowing through the county are Otter and Goose creek, the former rises in the mountains about the sides and base of the Peaks of Otter ; the head of the south fork of the latter rises between the celebrated Peaks, on the road passing through Jen- ning's Gap, and half way from the base to the summit; it is a large spring of delightful water and very powerful at its source, and is so increased by other springs ere it reaches the base of the mountain, that it aflbrds beauti- ful shcs for machinery: after uniting with the north fork it forms a consid- erable stream, running nearly a south course until it unites Avith Goose creek, which rises in the S. W. side of the Peaks, and runs first south and then east. It affords many sites for water-works, and many mills are erected on it. The celebrated Peaks of Otter are situated on the south of the road which passes through Jenning's Gap; the county line passes over the nor- thern or Flat Top Peak; this Peak was estimated by Mr. Jefferson to be fourteen or fifteen feet highest, but it is the southern one which has attracted most attention, — its pinnacle being formed of rock piled on rock for forty feet. From this the traveller gazes with delight upon the country below, studded with farms, diminished by the distance to the appearance of gar- dens, and mountain rising above mountain in endless perspective, whilst immediately beneath his feet the clouds may be pouring their genial showers upon the foot of the mountain. John Randolph of Roayioke, is said to have written some pious lines, upon witnessing this majestic and elevating scene. The spot has been A'isited also by the eloquent Volneij. — There are two other peaks in the same range of mountains, which have not been mentioned by travellers or geographers, they are distant five and seven miles from the two former, and are probably of equal height; the old hunters say, that the most northern one, which is called the Aj)ple Orchard, is the highest of all; its name is derived from the appearance of the trees on its top, -which resembles an old deserted orchard. The top affords a level of four or five acres of very rich soil, and has springs upon it. The other of these ne- gleeted Peaks is called the Onion; it has nothing remarkable about it, except its height. The soil in the lofty elevations of these mountains is astonish- ingly fertile. Chalybeate Waters, discovered in the south part of the county, have been found to be beneficial in diseases of the skin and debility, but no care being taken of them, they arc little known or frequented. EASTERN VIRGINIA— BEDFORD. 131 There is a cave of some extenl on tlie liead waters of Goose creek, of wliicli little is known. The timber of Bedford is generally oak, — white, black, red, Spanish, and box oak, — there is also much good pine in some sections. — Few hogs, and little eat tie is raised for market; there are some fine horses raised, and more attention has been lately attracted to this subject. There are about thirty good manufaeluring mills in the county, and as many saw mills. About six miles of the James river canal, Avhich passes through the Blue Ridge, lie in this county. — This county belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Population 1820, 19,305 — ia 1830, 20,24G— Taxes paid in 1833, $4,321 41— in 1834, on lots, $7G 09— land, $2538 50— slaves, (No. 4545,) $1130 25— horses, (No. 4670,) $280 20— studs, (No. 33,) $496 00— coaches, (No. 31,) $68 40 — carryalls, (No. 7,) $7 UO— gigs, (No. 20,) $11 25— Total $4,613 19. Amount expended in 1833 for education of poor children, $8G1 65. Sehool Fund from 30lh Sept. 1833, to \st Oct. 1834. Number of school commissioners, - - - - 15 " common schools attended by poor children, - - 25 " poor children in the county, - - - - 450 " " " sent to school, - - - - 330 Aggregate No. of days' attendance of poor children at school, - 18182 AA'erage '* " " each poor child " - 55 Hate of tuition per diem, - - - - - 4 cts. Average paid for each poor child, including all expenses, - $2 39 Expended in 1833, for all expenses, .... $787 84 TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Chambless' Store, P. O. 1 59 nis. from R. and 237 from W. Davis' Mill, P. O. 155 ms. S. W. by W. from W. " Davis' Store, P. O. 149 ms. from R. and 217 from W. Dickinson's Store, P.O. 152ms. W. of R. and 230 from W. Hendricks Store, P.O. IGl ms. from R. and 239 S. of W. LIBERTY, P. V. and seat of justice, is situated on a branch of Ot- ter river, 26 ms. S. W. from Lynch- burg, 145 ms. S. W. by W. from R. and 223 from W.— lat. 37° 17' N.— long. 20° 29' W. of W. C.— The Lynchburg and Salem turnpike runs through the town, which contains be- sides the countybuildings, 70 houses; — 2 Baptist, and 1 free church, — 1 masonic hall, — 2 taverns, — 5 mercan- tile stores, — 1 tobacco manufactory, — 2 tanyards, — 3 house-carpenters, — 1 wheelwright, — 3 tailors, — 2 black- smiths, — and 2 turners. — The mail arrives and departs fifteen times in a week. — Liberty contains 9 attorneys, and 4 regular physicians; — whole population 350. County Courts are held on the 4//t Monday in every month; — Quarterly in March, May, August, Siwdi Novem- ber. Judge Daniel holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the tenth of May and October. Mersey's, P. O. 170 ms. W. of R. and 248 from W. — It contains 5 mer- cantile stores, 1 tavern, 2 manufactur- ing flour mills, 5 common grist mills, 2 carding machines, and 3 saw mills. — The neighboring soil is good and produces well all the staples of the middle states. 132 EASTERN VIRGINIA— BRUNSWICK. Otter Bridge, P. O. 17 ms. S.] W. by W. of Lynchburg, 215 ms. S.I W. of W. and l'37 from^R. OTTER PEAKS, situated on the boundary line between Bedford and Botetourt, by the road 30 ms. from Lynchburg; — These summits are 4,260 feet above the Atlantic, and are the highest Peaks of the Appalachian chain, except the White Top peaks of the Iron mountain, and some points in New Hampshire. — See a descrip- tion of these in the preliminary de- scription of this county. Saint James Church, P. O. 139 ms. from R. and 217 S. W. of W. Tiber, or Goose Creek, P. O. in the western part of the county is 10 ms. W. of Liberty, 233 ms. from W. and 155 from R. — situated on the wa- ters of a beautiful stream called Goose creek, with a fine view of the mag- nificent Blue Ridge, and the towering Peaks of Otter. It contains 1 dwel- ling houses, 1 free house of worship, 1 Benevolent Society, and 1 manufac- turing flour mill, — the principal me- chanical pursuits are the blacksmiths, tanners, boot and shoe makers, wagon jmakers, and brick layers. The soil in the neighborhood is fertile, produc- ing Avheat, corn, buckwheat, tobacco, oats, hemp, and flax, in abundance. — Grazing is also carried on by the far- mers in the neighborhood, and no soil can be better adapted to grass and clo- ver. — Tiber has 1 physician, and a population of 70 souls. Wharton's Mills, P. O. 154 ms. from R. and 227 S. W. of W. White Oak Grove, P. O. 149 ms. from R. and 227 from W. BRUNSWICK. Brunswick was created by the Legislature in 1720, from a portion of Surry and Isle of AVight. It "is bounded N. W. and N. by Lunenburg, — W. by Mecklenburg,— N. E. by NoUoway river, which separates it from Dinvv'iddie, — E. by nreensvillp, — S. by Southampton co. of N. Carolina, and S. W. by Warren co. of the same state. It is nearly a square, of 26 miles on each side; area 676 sq. miles: extendinar in lat. from 36° 32' N. to 36° 56' N., and in long, from 0° 39', to 1° 04' W. of W.C. The S. W. angle touches Roanoke, and a small section is drained S. into that stream; but the body of the county is comprised in the vallies of Meherrin and Not- toway rivers, and declines to the east. — Population 1820 — 16,687 — in 1830 — 15,767. — Brunswick belongs to the second judicial circuit, and first dis- trict.— Tax paid in 1833, $3618 91— in 1834, $3751 56.— Amount ex- pended in educating poor children in 1832, no report — in 1833, $417 65. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Diamond Grove, P. O. 86 ms. S. S. W. of R. and 179 from W.— on the Meherrin river and main stage road from Petersburg, Va.,to Charles- ton, S. C, 7 ms. S. o^ LawrencRvillc : situated in a rich and enterprising neighborhood. Gholsonville, p. V. on the left bank of Meherrin river, 75 ms. S. S. W. of R. and 197 from W.— one mile S. of hnwrencemlle and on the main road leading S. from Petersburg — it contains 5 dwelling houses, one Me- thodist house of worship, 1 coach manufactory, and a blacksmith-shop. — It has one physician, and a popula- tion of 60 persons. Harrisville, p. O. 46 ms. from R. and 168 from W. EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKIiNGH AM. 133 JoNESBORo', P. O. 92 ms. S. of R. and 194 from W. LAWRENCEVILLE, P. V. and county seat, C9 ms. W. of S. from Richmond, and 191 from Washing- ton— lat. 36° 48' N., and long. 0" 50' W. of W. C. — Lawrenceville is a beautiful and wealthj^ little upland village, on a branch of the Meherrin river, containing a handsome court- house, clerk's office, and jail, an ele- gant masonic hall, and an Episcopal church, 25 neat dwelling houses, 1 common school, 1 temperance and 1 missionary society, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 lanyards, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe factorj', 2 tailors, and 3 smith-shops. Population 350; of whom 4 are attorneys, and 1 a physi- cian. County Courts are held on the At/i Mo7iday in every montli ; — Quarterly in March, May, August, B.nd Novem- ber. Judge May holds his Circuit Su- perior Court of Law and Chancery on the 26^/i of Apriland September. Lewisville, p. V. 78 ms. S. S. W. from R. and 200 from W.— situat- ed on Gee's road, one mile N. W. of Gee's bridge over the Meherrin river, and near the dividing line of Lunen- burg, Brunswick, and Mecklenburg; 28 miles from Randolph Macon Col- lege, and 9 from Lawrenceville. — It contains 13 dwelling houses, 1 mer- cantile store, 1 tailor, and 1 blackshith. Population 33. There arc several Methodist houses of worship in the immediate neighborhood. The coun- try is healthy, and well settled with industrious and wealthy farmers; the land is strong and well watered, and produces all the staple articles of the state. Kennedy, P. O. 6G ms. S. S. W. of R. and 188 from W. Percivals, p. O. 67 ms. S. W. of R. and 186 from W. Sturgeonville, p. V. 60 ms. S. S. W. of R. and 182 from W.— This place takes its name from St^irgcon creek, which runs near it. — It is situ- ated in the N. E. part of the county, in a tolerably thickly settled neigh- borhood. The land once good, is now much worn out, but the inhabi- tants are A'Cealthy and hospitable; wheat and tobacco are the staples. — There are in the neighborhood of the P. O., 1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyte- rian house of worship, 1 Academy, 1 female school, 2 general stores, 1 blacksmith, 2 boot and shoe makers, 1 tanyard, and a house of entertain- ment. White Plains, P. O. 94 ms. S. S. AV. of R. and 205 from W.— situ- ated on the great southern road; 80 ms. N. of Raleigh, N. C. BUCKINGHAM. Buckingham was created by the Legislature in 1761, and formed out of part of Albemarle county. — It is bounded on the N. E. — N. — N. W. — and W. by the James river," which separates it from Fluvanna, Albemarle, Nelson, and Amherst; S. W. by Campbell; S. by the Appomattox, which separates it from Piince Edward; and E. by Cumberland. Length 34 miles, mean breadth, 24 — area 816 sq. miles; — it extends in lat. from 37° 13' to 37^ 45' N. and in long, from 1° 12' to 1° 55' W. from W. C. The head waters of the Appomattox flow along the S. border of this county; but its general inclination is N. towards the James, which forms about half of its^ entire outline. The only mountains in Buckingham are Willis's mountain^ a small range near its eastern border, and another in the S. W. part near James river, called Fergusons mountain; the remainder of 134 EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. the county is generally level. Willis'' s river rises in the S. part ot the county — flows in an eastern direction, enters Cumberland, then turns to the N. E. and empties into the James, 40 miles above Richmond; it is naviga- ble 65 miles Irom its mouth, — a remarkable circumstance for a river of its length; — its channel rather resembles a canal than a river. Slate river rises in the S. part of this county, flows to the N. E. and empties into the James 3 miles above New Canton, and 63 above Richmond. — Buckingham is by no means wealthy in proportion to its extent, — a large portion of it is barren and uninhabited; on the borders of the watercourses the soil is fer- tile, producing well all the staples, tobacco, wheat, corn, &c. — the interven- ing ridges are extremely sterile and desolate. — The county contains 7 manu- facturing flour mills, capable of grinding from 200 to 250,000 bushels of wheat annually, 5 wool-carding establishments, 8 tanyards, and 40 grist mills. — Slate is found in abundance at the mouth of Slate river. — Iron-ore is found near New Canton. — Gold is found in many places, and one mine is said to be the richest in America. A Mineral Spring has been disco- vered ten miles S. of New Canton, which is known as the Physic Spring, the waters of Avhich have not been analyzed, bui are thought by physicians acquainted with its qualities, to be useful in many diseases, especially those of a chronic nature. — Buckingham belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Population 1820, 17,582 — in 1830, 18,351. Taxes in 1832-3, $5053 25— 1833-4, on lots, $67 06— land, $2937 55— on 5817 slaves, $1454 25— 3781 horses, $226 86— 13 studs, $188 00— 88 coaches, $265 75 — 13 carryalls, $13 00 — 6 gigs, $40 40. — Total $5132 87. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $498 90 — in 1833» $421 24. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. Diana Mills, P. O. 75 m's. W.l of R., and 160 from W. — situated on Slate river, 5^ m's. above its junction with the James, and 5 above Virginia Mills. It contains 1 dwelling house, and 3 stores which do a good busi- ness. Slate river is a constant stream, portions of which run through a fine wheat and tobacco country. Popu- lation at Diana Mills 12. DitiGUiDsviLLE, or B€7it CrecJc, P. V. 196 m's. S. W. by W. of W. and 112 from R., situated in the S. W. part of the county at the mouth of Bent Creek on James river. A neat village Avith considerable trade, and containing 16 dwelling houses, 3 general stores, 2 groceries, a tav- ern, a house of private entertainment, and a tobacco warehouse ; — at the latter were formerly inspected from 8 to 1200 hogsheads of tobacco annual- ly, and it is yet much used as a place of deposite by the planters, prior to sending their tobacco to Richmond. The mechanics of the place are a tanner, saddler, wheelwright, black- smith, cabinet maker, tailor, brick- layer, and stone mason : there are in the neighbourhood 2 extensive man- ufacturing mills, a grist and a saw mill; — from 20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat are annually purchased in the village. — A horse mail arrives thrice a week. Population 132, 1 of whom is a physician. Eldridges, p. O. 79 m's. W. of R., and 154 from W. Flood's P. O. 180 m's. S. W. of W., and 96 W. of R. MAYSVILLE, P. V. and County Seat, 87 m's. W. of R., and 162 from W.— in lat. 37° 22' N., and long 1° 32' W. of W. C , situated near the centre of the county on Slate Creek, 35° N. of Lynchburg. It contains EASTERN VIRGINIA— BUCKINGHAM. 135 bcsiflcs the county buildings, about 50 dwelling houses, 1 Free church, and 1 Presbyterian, 1 female acade- my, and 2 elementary schools for boys, 4 mercantile stores, 1 apotheca- ries shop, and 3 taverns; — the me- chanics arc 1 fanner, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe manufacturers, 1 silver smith and watch maker, 1 milliner and mantua maker, 2 wagon makers, 2 cabinet makers, 3 tailors, 1 tin plate worker, and 1 miller. There are 5 arrivals of the mail in each Aveek. Maj^sville contains 5 resident attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. Population 300. County Courts, arc held on the 2d Monday in every month ; Quar- terly in March, May, August and Notembcr. Judge Daniel holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the lO^A of August, and September. New Canton, P. V. in the north- ern part of the county, 63 m's. W of R., and 138 from W., situated at the mouth of Slate Creek, on an elevated bank about a fourth of a mile from James river, commanding a beautiful perspective view down the river. It Avas once a place of considerable trade, but has been for sometime ra- pidly declining. It contains 36 dwel- ling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 1 f^our manufacturing mill, 1 tanyard, and 1 saddler. A Free house of ICO r ship is situated a mile S. of New Canton; and 4 m's. W. the Virginia Mills,hy which large quan- tities of flour are manufactured, — they are situated on Slate river, on which several valuable slate quarries are opened. An iron foundry has lately been opened at New Canton, by which is manufactured all qualities of iron. Immediately on Slate river the country is hilly, but soon becomes very level ; — the borders of the river are very fertile, but the level country beyond the hills extremely sterile, except on the flats of creeks. New Canton has 1 attorney, and 1 physi- cian. Population 50. New Store, P. O. 81 m*s. from R., and 167 S. W. from W. Oakville, p. V. in the S. W. part of the country, 49 m's. S. W. by W. of New Canton, 103 W. of R., and 187 W. of W., situated at the inter- section of the roads leading from Bent creek, to Prince Edward C. H. and from Lynchburg to Stone Wall Mills, 2| m's. from the line of Camp- bell Co. It contains but 2 dwelling houses, and a store selling about $10,000 worth of goods annually. The land in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Oakville is sterile but level, the surrounding country is more fertile, and well adapted to the staples of the state. Much tobacco, was formerly raised in this section of country, but the planters are turning their attention more to the cultivation of the other staples, and to improving their land by clover, plaster, &c. There is great variety in the soil, some being dark and stony, some red, and some gray, — the former is most productive. Physic Spring, P. O. 67 m's. W, of R. and 153 from W. Stone Wall Mills, P. O. in the S. W. part of the Co., 108 m's. S. W. of R., and 102 from W., situated on James river, 15 m's. below Lynch- burg. It contains 2 dwelling houses, 1 manufacturing mill, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tailor, 1 shoemaker, and 1 blacksmith. Located in a convenient place for sending produce to market by water ; and surrounded by a healthy and wealthy neighbourhood. Population 20. Warren, Ferry, and P. O. ST m's. W of R. and" 172 from W.— in the W. part of the Co., 10 m's. W. of the C. H. 136 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, CAMPBELL.. Campbell was created by the Legislature in 1784, from a portion of Bedford. It is bounded S. by Staunton, branch of Roanoke, which sepa- rates it from Pittsylvania and Halifax, W. by Bedford, N. by James river which separates it from Amherst, S. E. by Buckingham and Prince Ed- ward, and E. by Charlotte. Campbell approximates to a square of 24 m's. on each side, with an area of 576 sq. m's., and extends in lat. from 37° to 37° 26' N. and long, from 1° 46' to 2°22 'W. of W. C. There are a few small mountains in Campbell :^both its bounding rivers the Staunton and James are navigable for boats far above its limits ; thus opening communis cation with Chesapeake bay and Albemarle sound. The surface is much broken, but' productive in grain, fruit, tobacco, pasturage, &c. Population including the town of Lynchburg in 1820—16,570, in 1830—20,350. Campbell belongs to the eighth judicial circuit, and fourth district. Taxes paid in 1833, |6682 53—1834, on lots, $1666 74— land, $3093 82— 5128 slaves, $1282—3589 horses, $215 34—16 studs, $210 00—88 coaches, $167 10—26 Carryalls, $26 50—57 gigs, $35 60.— Total, $6697 10. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $244 57— in 1833, $165 03. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &c. Arnoldston, p. V. 219 m's. S. W. from W., and 141 from R., situ- ated at the junction of Otter river with Staunton, on the main southern road — 20 m's. from Lj'nchburg, and 25 from the- Peak's of Otter, which with several other picturesque moun- tains are in view. The country around is fertile, rich, well watered, thickly settled and healthy. The vil- lage contains several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 Avheelwright, and a blacksmith shop, Avith various other mechanics. There are five grist and saw mills from 2 to 4 m's. distant: these mills are surroiinded Avhh fine timber for building, &c. Population of Arnoldston 15. Brookneal, p. V. 162 m's. S. W. by W. of R. and 240 irom W., situ- ated in the S. E. part of the county on a beautiful eminence on the north bank of Staunton river, opposite the Seven Islands, a little above the junc- tion of Big Falling river, Avith Staun- ton riA'er. It contains 21 houses — 10 of Avhich are dvA-elling houses, 2 mer- cantile stores, 1 Baptist house of Avor- ship, 1 tavern, tan yard, saddler, tail or, boot and shoe factory, tobacco fac- tory, and 2 blacksmith shops; in the vicinity. On Big Falling river is a manufacturing mill. Population 109, of whom 61 are Avhites,and 48 blacks, and 1 a physician. The falls at this place and for some miles above are very considerable, on both rivers ; and fully adequate to the moA'ement of any machinery Avhatever. The Staunton is the dividing line of Campbell and Halifax, and has at this place a ferry, and on the opposite side a ta- vern. For some miles aboA^e Brook- neal there is A^ery little fiat land on Staunton river, the hills Avhich abound with fine building rock, running to the Avaters edge; but at Brookneal the flat land becomes Avider and con- tinues to Aviden for miles beloAV. These flats are A-ery fertile, producing most abundant crops of Avheat, corn, oats and tobacco; and some parts also are Avell adapted to clover and grass. The uplands are of common quality, and abound Avith good oak, and pine timber. There are seA-eral fine beds of soap stone, and iron ore in this A-i- cinity. EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL 137 CAMPBELL C. H., P. O. 210( LYNCHBURG. The town of m's. from W., 133 from R. and 121 Lynchburg is situated on the S. or m's. S. of Lynchhuro:. Besides the right bank of James river, in the N. ordinary county buildings it contains VV. corner of the county of Campbell, 12 dwelling houses, 2 taverns, 1 classical and 1 common school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard and seve- ral mechanics. The public buildings are large, neat and commodious, and the village rapidly improving. The mails arrive and depart 3 times a week. The population is from 90 to 100; of whom 3 are attorneys and 1 a physician. County Courts, are held on the 2d Mondai) in every month: — Quarterly in March, June, August, and Novem- ber. Judge Daniel holds his Cir- cuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the 2&th of April and September. Concord, P. O. 106 m's W. of R. and 192 from W., 12 m's, from Camp- bell C. H., and 13 from Lynchburg. Concord is the name of a small sec- tion of country in which the P. O. is located, and derives its name from a 120 m's. W. from R. and 198 ms. S. W. from W. Its lat. is 37° 36' N. and its long. 79° 22' W. from Greenwich. The river in front of the town is about 200 yards Avide, and flows to the S. E., giving the same direction to the principal streets. The naviga- tion is difncult, the river being ob- structed by shoals, rocks and rapids, throughout a considerable part of its course above tide-water, and admitting only the use of batteaux carrying about 5 tons. Their form is peculiar and excellent. The river is crossed in front of the centre of the town, by a plain wooden bridge, from which, and in the same direction. Water st. leads through the middle of the town, crossing the other streets at rif^hi angles. On the N. Vv. side, the town is limited by the abrupt bank of Black meeting house in the vicinity. Thej Water creek, Avhich flowing N. E. en- country around is fertile and thickly settled, and within 2 m's. of the P. 6. are 3 houses of public worship — Presbyterian, Baptist and Methodist. Falling Bridge, P. O. 122 m's. S. W. by W. of R. and 203 from W. in the S. E. part of the count}-, 20 m's. S. E. of Lynchburg. Flat Creek, P. O. 129 m's. S. W. by W. of R., and 207 miles ters James river a little above the bridge. The river banks on the N. E. side are broken, precipitant and elevated; presenting, in connec- tion with the distant view of the Blue Ridge and the Peaks of Otter, a scen- ery which has been universally ad- mired for its beauty and boldness. In some situations, the banks of the river disclose strata of earth in a man- ner highly interesting and instructive Lynch- from W. _ . Greeniiill, p. O. 152 m's. from to the geological student. R., and 230 from W. Iburg stands in a primitive region, Leesville, p. V. 147 m's. S. W. abounding in several varieties of the by W. of R., and 225 from W., situ- j granitic rocks. Mica slate, horn- ated at the junction of Staunton river blende, chlorites, quartz, and various and Goose creek. It contains 20 [ores of iron, are often met with; and dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, a tavern, tobacco factory and ware- house, manufacturing flour mill, hemp and wool carding machine and among the rarer minerals, lithomarge, an oxide of titanium, cyenhe, asbestos, (fcc. Gold, in small quantities, has been found in the neighbourhood. cotton gm, 2 tanyards, a tailor, 3 1 The quarries produce a compact mica blacksmiths and 2^boot and shoe fac- slate, capable of being wrought easily Population 65 ; of whom 1 is : with the chisel into blocks, havmg tones. a physician. 18 138 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, the closest resemblance to granite, and affording a building material highly valuable, but as yet too little appre- ciated. The streets parallel to the river, which have been more or less built upon, are 10 in number. Of these, the 2d or "Main street" is the princi- pal. Almost all the shops and stores of the town are situated on this street ; and for the distance of about three quarters of a mile, it presents continu- ous rows of tolerably v^-ell built houses. Main st. together with 3d, (the next in order, proceeding from the river,) occupies a bench on the river bank, at an elevation of about 125 feet; while 4th st. is nearly 100 feet higher; lying only a little below the common level of the country. These streets are crossed at right angles by 10 or 12 alleys, having Water st. in the middle, which be- tween 3d and 4th streets, is too pre- cipitous for the use of carriages of any kind. The number of houses is between 8 and 900. The court house, market house, and other public buildings, ex- cepting a substantial stone jail, are in a style of architecture which does no credit to the place. The principal hotels are the Franklin and the Union, on Main St., and the Wash- ington on 3d St. Several of the pri- vate dwellings would be considered ornamental to any city. The churches, in the order of their erection, are the Methodist Episcopal, the 1st Presbyterian, the 1st Baptist the Protestant Episcopal Church of St. Paul's, the 2d Baptist, the Metho- dist Protestant, the 2d Presbyterian, and a Friend's meeting house in the vicinity of the town. These build- ings, 5 of which stand on 3d st. are mostly quite plain; 1 or 2 only having any pretensions to architectural pro- priety or ornament. Among the mechanics of Lynch- burg are found — distributed in the usual proportions of an inland town, bakers, blacksmiths, cabinet maker.*, carpenters, carriage makers, chair makers, coopers, coppersmiths, gun smiths, hatters, masons, painters, print- ers, rope makers, saddlers, shoema- kers, silversmiths, tallow chandlers, tanners, tailors, tinners, turners, to- bacconists, &c. The principal manufacturing es- tablishments within the town, are a large and excellent flour mill and a saw mill, on Black Water creek, with a number of others in the neighbour- hood, a carding machine on a rivulet at the lower end of the town, several brick yards, 2 extensive tanyards, and a good many tobacco factories, for stemming, manufacturing, &c. These factories give employment to many hundred hands. A cotton factory on the right bank of Black Water creek, erected by the Lynchburg Manufac- turing Company Avith a capital of ^100,000, and intended to run 2-500 spindles, and give employment to about ?0 persons, is just getting into operation. This is the first attempt of any importance to carry on the cot- ton manufacture in S. W. Virginia ; the success of the enterprise is confi- dently anticipated, and the hope is cherished that other capitalists may be induced to embark in similar un- dertakings among us, until at least the wants of the country depending upon Lynchburg are supplied Avith domestic fabrics of our own produc- tion. The L}mchburg Water Works, for furnishing the town with an unfailing supply of pure and wholesome water, were constructed in 1828-29, under the direction of Albert Stein, esq. En- gineer, at an expense of $50,000. The height — unprecedented in this country — to which it was necessary to raise the water, renders this one of the most interesting midertakings of the kind in the United States. An arm of the James, formed by an island about 2 miles in length, is crossed, a short distance above the EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL. J 30 limits of \\\c corporation, liy a dram 10 foet high. A eanal of half a mile in leng-th convoys the water to the pump house on the river bank, at the foot of 3rd alley. A double forcing pump on the plan of De la Hire, worked by a largo breast wheel, impels the water through the ascending pipe which is 200 feet long, to a reservoir containing 400,000 gallons, situated between 4th and Sth streets, and at the clcvalion of 240 feet above the level of the river. Fire plugs are connected with the distributing pipes at every intersection of the alleys with 2nd and 3rd streets, and afford an ad- mirable security against the danger of fire. The height of the reseiwoir, above these streets (the only ones compactly built,) gives a jet of water by means of hose pipes, of from 60 to 80 feet elevation, and throws it, in bold and continuous streams, over the roofs of the highest houses. The water is extensively taken by the in- habitants, and the rents are already accumulating a sinking fund for li- quidating the debt incurred in con- structing these valuable works. The water power created by the dam for the water works, is amply sufficient for working a large addi- tional amount of machinery, and waits only for a clearer perception by cap- italists of the manufacturing advan- tages of this town, to be brought into extensive use. The cheapness of la- bour, the abundance of provisions, and the extent and wealth of the country looking this way for its sup- plies of domestic as well as of foreign goods, unite with the vast water pow- er actually prepared and ready for any application, in inviting the attention of men of capital and enterpris important subject. Lynchburg has suffered much from the want of good roads, by which the products of the surrounding country might bo conveyed to her market. The recent improvements, however, are important. The road to Char- lottesville, distant 70 m's. N. E. has been skilfully graduated; and in spite of an uncommonly broken country, is now traversed with expedition and ease. The Richmond road is now being turnpiked to Chilton's, 15 m's. from Lynchburg — the only part of the route that particularly required this mode of improvement. An ex- cellent turnpike is now nearly com- pleted fi'om this place to Lexington, by the way of the Blue Ridge Canal on James river. This road passes^ near the Natural Bridge, 30 m's. from Lynchburg. A similar road having already been opened westward from Lexington to Covington, the most di- rect route from the lower country to the Virginia Springs, will now be found to lead through Lynchburg. The Lynchburg and eastern turnpike, running S. W. through New London and Liberty, is now completed half the distance. This is an expensive macadimised road. It enters Lynch- burg at the lower end of the town ; to accommodate the wants of the other end, an arm has been constructed from Cocke, or West street, (the north- ernmost alley,) intersecting the turn- pike a mile and a half from town. The " Piedmont road," by Char- lottesville, Lynchburg, Danville, Sa- lem, N. C, &c. having lately been made the route for the great southern mail, the public at large have addi- tional inducements for improving the portion of it between Lynchburg and Danville, A good thoroughfare in this direction would prove an impor- tant accession to the commercial fa- cilites ol this town. A mail coach passes to and from Richmond 3 times a week; the line to this Icontinues westward to Lewisburg in Greenbriar county, passing by Liber- ty in Bedford county, Fincastle in Botetourt county, and the Sweet and White Sulphur Springs, intersecting the line from Richmond by way of Charlottesville at the latter place. Just bevond the Blue Ridge, abranch 140 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAMPBELL, Company," and a large amount of stock taken. Circumstances caused the abandonment of that undertaking; 3'et so important is it for Lynchburg to secure its S. W. trade, to the great- est extent, that the connection of the waters of the Tennessee with the James river at this place, is an enter- prise that ought never to be lost sight of. One of the richest sections of the Union will find this its most direct route to the Atlantic markets. The staple article of trade in Lynch- burg is tobacco ; for the inspection and storage of which there are in dif- ferent parts of the town, 7 large ware- houses. So fertile and productive were — and in a measure, still are — the tobacco lands of the country trad- ing to Lynchburg, that in regard to the quantity inspected, the place has long been the largest tobacco market in the world. of this line extends to Salem, where it joins the line passing up the Valley from Staunton. &c. Another mail coach passes between this place and Washington city, by way of Char- lottesville 3 times a v/eek; this line extends on south into Georgia. The commercial relations of Lynch- burg are extensive, embracing a large tract of country to the south and west. Exclusive of an important section of Virginia, the N. W. parts of North Carolina, and many counties in east Tennessee communicate with the At- lantic ports through this town. The recent arrangements for carrying through the long contemplated im- provements connecting the James and Kanawha rivers, are likely to affect the trade and prosperity of the place : but whether prosperously or adverse- ly, time must develope. In the year 1832, a charter was obtained for "the Lynchburg and New River Rail Road The following is a tabular view of the statistics of the Tobacco Trade of Lynchburg for the last 12 years, including a statement of the inspec- tions at Richmond and Petersburg: For the year ending LYNCHBURG. RICHMOND. PETERSBURG. Oct. 1st, Passed. ] [lefused. Passed. Refused. Passed. lefused 1822, 10185 1750 7314 2393 13133 4527 1823, 14081 3057 7716 4561 10628 3352 1824, 12457 1790 8216 3808 8710 2309 1825, 14817 1957 9254 3041 5866 2067 1826, 11506 1649 8669 3070 1479 1482 1827. 16127 2465 11142 5087 2096 3346 1828, 13285 2621 10196 7407 1322 4025 1829, 10981 1946 7970 4626 1201 2407 1830, 11926 3539 8360 7007 2120 4515 1831, 11842 3743 8939 7419 2002 4634 1832, 9906 3909 5639 5494 1158 3804 1833, 7957 2173 4868 4617 2877 3605 With the exhaustion of the rich soils that have heretofore produced that staple, the amount of tobacco grown, and the profits of the busi- ness, must gradually diminish. Ma- ny intelligent planters, foreseeing the inevitable course of things, are by de- grees abandoning the culture of the plant, and giving an increased atten- tion to the growing of wheat and the improvement of their overcropped lands. There is not in the Union a soil superior to theirs if properly man- aged. Their success in clover and wheat will animate the spirit of agri- cultural improvement, check the tide of emigration, and by furnishing in- creased quantities of merchantable EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAiMPBELL. 141 proJuce, aflorJ the surest gimrmitee J'or tlie penuauent prosperity of tlieir market town. The Lynchburg branch of the Bank of Virg-inia has a capital of $300,000, and that of the Farmers' Bank of Virginia, a capital of $ There are also two Savings Banks, paying interest on deposites The beneficial effects of these admi- rable institutions are widely felt. The most important Benevolent Societies of Lynchburg are, a Bible Society, auxiliary to the American Bible Society, instituted in the year 1815; — a Colonization Society, insti- tuted in 182G, which has been instru-lof the latter. junction with Staunton river. It con- tains 20 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- tile stores, 1 manufacturing (lour mill, a tanyard, and various mechanics. Seneca creek has lately been improved by tlie Roanoke Company/, and boats can now come up to the mill. Popu- ation 50. Moueman's p. O. 221 m's. from W., and 143 from R. New London, P. V. near the W. border of Campbell, 209 m's. from W. and 131 from R. New London is an incorporated town, situated on the Lynchburg and Salem turnpike, 1 1 m's. S. W. of the former, and 50 E. It contains 25 dwelling mental in sending out many people of color as colonists to Liberia, — and a numerous and influential Temperance Society. Lynchburg has no incorporated seminary of learning. The business of education is left entirely to indi- vidual enterprise. There is a good classical and mathematical school, se- veral schools for both sexes, and others for young ladies exclusively of which one is furnished with an exten- sive and costly Philosophical Appa- ratus. The town labors under the reproach of having no public library. In addition to the " Lynchburg Vir- ginian," a semi- weekly paper of long standing, another, also semi-weekly, has lately been established. The town was established in the year 1786, but so slow was its pro- gress that in 1793, it contained but five houses. The charter of incorpo- ration was obtained in 1805. Popu- lation in 1830, 4,630, including 12 resident attorneys, and 15 practising physicians. Marysville, P. V. 147 m's. S. W. by W. of R., and 225 from W., situated in the S. part of the county, 20 m's. S. W. of Lynchburg, and 15 m's. S. of Campbell C. //., in a thick- ly settled and wealthy neighbourhood, on Seneca creek, a mile above its houses, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, and 1 handsome Methodist meeting house, a rope walk, blacksmith shop, wheelwright, tanyard, and 2 saddlers. The New London Academy is situ- ated a mile W. of the town. At this in- stitution a student may be prepared to enter any of the colleges or Univer- sities with credit. There were in 1834, 50 pupils: — the buildings con- sist of a handsome and commodious Academy, a presidents' house, and a large brick church well enclosed. The Bedford and Campbell Agricul- tural Society, holds its meetings at New London. There is a merchant mill on Buffalo creek, about half a mile west of the town, and another about the same distance south, both on a very extensive scale. Popula- tion 100. New London was founded about the year 1750, and about the time of the American revolution contained per- haps thrice its present number of in- hal)itants. There was then establish- ed at this place a United States armo- ry, and its artisans, which have since been removed to Harpers Ferry: — Fiv^e or six Scotch merchants, who were largely engaged in business about the commencement of the revo- lution, refused to take the oath of alle- giance, broke up their establishments, and left the country. These circum- i 142 EASTERN VIRC4INIA— CAROLINE. stances combining with the establish- ment of Lynchburg so near it on James river, have given a shock to the prosperity of the town from which it cannot recover. Under the old disirict system the Superior Court was held at New London. RED HILL, situated in the S. E. part of the county, on the borders ofl this county and Charlotte, about three- miles below Brookneal, on the Staun- ton river — The residence of PAT- RICK HENRY, and the burial place of himself and his lady. Reedy Spring, P. O. 110 ms. from R. and 196 S. W. of W. Yellow Branch, P. O. 135 ras. S. W. of R, and 213 from W. CAROLINE. Caroline was created by the House of Burgesses, in February, IT'S?, (in the language of the act) "on the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and King William." — The first court was held under a commission from Go- vernor Gooch, in May 1728. — It is bounded N. by the Rappahannock which separates it from King George, N. W. by same river separating it from Stafford, — N. E. by Essex, — E. and S. E. by King and Queen, and King William, — S. S. W. by the Pamunke3% which separates it from Han- over, — and W. by Spottsylvania. — Its shape is nearly a parallelogram, in length 30 miles from N. E. to S. W. and in breadth 20;— area 600 sq. ms. — lat. 37° 4' to 38° 16' N. and long. 0° 2' to 0° 43' W. of W. C— The surface is much broken, and the soil presents great variety. The Rappahannock and Pamunkey are on the borders of this counl\% and the Mattapony runs a little south of its centre, the low grounds of these rivers are admirably adapted to the culture of Indian corn, wheat, and to- bacco, — indeed for the firs>t they are said to be the best lands in the state. — Its principal villages are Bowling Green and Port Royal, and its Academies Rappahannock and Concord. Caroline was formerly divided into three parishes, Drysdale and St. Mary's, created in 1727, and St. Margarett's, in 1744, in each of which a church was placed, only St. Margaretts remains: — but there are many other churches and meeting houses in the county, Avhich belong principally to the prevailing denomination — the Baptist. The people are religious, and remarkable for their wealth, hospitality and intel- ligence; — it was the birth place of the republican John Tatlor, — the highly gifted Edmund Pendleton, and the chivalric General Wood- ford." Population, 1820, 18,003— in 1830, 17,744.— Caroline belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4440 82 — 1834, on lots, $62 71 — lands, $2355 22 — on 5581 slaves, $1395 25 — 3015 horses, $180 90—11 studs, $133 00— on 71 coaches, $180 56 — 4 stages, $5 50—93 carryalls, $97 25—218 gigs, $121 94— Total, $45 33 33. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $519 88 — in 1833, $539 84. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. BOWLING GREEN, P. V, and county seat, 44 ms. N. N. E. of R. and 78 from W. on the main road loading from Fredericksburg to Rich- mond, 22 miles from the former. — The public buildings are new, ban d- EASTERN VIRGINIA— CAROLINE, 143 some, and spacious, consisting of a court house, clerk's office, and jail, recently erected; one Episcopalian house of worship, and in the vicinity one church helonging to the (reform- ed) Baptists. There are 29 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 grist and saw mill, 1 coach and wagon manufactory, 2 blacksmiths, 1 tan- yard, 2 tailors, 2 bricklayers, 1 house- joiner, and 2 boot and shoe factories; 2 elementary schools, one for each sex ; 1 well organized Sunday school, and 1 temperance society; al- so a female benevolent association, Avhich has a fair annually, the profits of which are appropriated to benevo- lent purposes. This village is located on a beauti- ful level green, ornamented with fine trees ; it derives its present name from the nature of its location, its original name was New Hope. — The seat of county justice was removed to this place in 1805. The railroad now under contract between Fredericks- burg and Richmond, is expected to make this village a place of consider- able trade. — A line of stages running N. and S. pass here twice a day; and two cross mails from E. to W. — The surrounding country is remarkable for its healthiness and fertility, pro- ducing abundantly all the staples of the state. Population 317 persons, of whom 6 are attorneys, and 2 phy- sicians. County Courts are held on the 2(1 Monday in everymonth: — Quarterly in March, June, August, and No- vember. Judge Lomax holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the \st of May, and lO/A of Sep- tttnber. Chilesburg, p. O. 55 ms. from R. and 83 from W. | GoLANsviLLE, P. O. 43 ms. N. of R. and 90 S. S. W. of W.— It con- tains several dwelling houses, amer-j cantilo store, tanyard, blacksmith,} saddle and harness maker, tailor, to- bacco factory, manufacturing mill, and a grist and saw mill. Popula- tion 21 whites and 53 black.s. The scenery around is pretty and the country healthy; the soil is good, adapted to Indian corn, wheat, oats, and tobacco of fine quality. There are two mineral springs in the neigh- borhood, vSupposed to contain iron and sulphur. Jemap, p. O. G9 ms. from R. and 08 from W, C. Mill Farm, P. O. 44 ms. from R. and 93 S. of W. Oxford, P. O. 33 ms. from R. and 100 from W. Port Royal, P. V. on Rappa- hannock opposite Port Conway in King George, 59 ms. from R. and 78 from W. — on the S. side of the river 22 ms. below Fredericksburg. It is one of the oldest towns in Virginia, and was rapidly declining until a few years past, but is now improving. It contains 236 houses, 2 houses of pub- lic worship, 1 methodist and 1 Epis- copalian, 6 mercantile stores, and 1 merchant mill. The mechanics are a tanner, saddler, carriage maker, and ship builder. Population in 1 830, GOO; 2 of whom are attorneys, and 2 physicians. Port Royal was created a town by the House of Burgesses in 1744, — ^It possesses a fine harbor, which readily admits vessels drawing eleven feet water; it Avas formerly one of the principal markets in the state for to- bacco, but has now lost this important trade; it yet however exports large quantities of wheat and Indian corn. — Two steamboats regularly stop four times a week at this place on their route between Fredericksburg and Baltimore. Rappahaxxock Academy, P. O. 64 ms. N. N. E. of R. and 72 S. S. W. of W., in the N. part of the county. — This was a flourishing and useful school a few years since, but we be- lieve there has been no teacher there for some lime past. — We now how- 144 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLES CITY. ever see an advertisement, which states that the school will be opened on the 15th January, 1835, with teachers fully competent to teach all the branches of education usually taught in our schools. Sparta, P. O. 48 ms. from R. and 89 from W. Turner's Store, P. O. 86 ms. from W. and 36 N. of R. Veilleboro'j p. O. in N. part of the county, 8 ms. N. of Boioling Green, the seat of justice, 70 ms. S. S. W. of W. and 52 from R. on the stage road leading from Fredericks- burg to Richmond, 14 miles from the former. White Chimneys, P. O. 30 ms. N. of R. and 92 from W. CHARI-ES CITY* C'harles City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- ginia was divided by the House of Burgesses in 1734. It is bobnded S. by James river which separates it from Surrj'-, Prince George, and Ches- terfield, — E. by the Chickahominy, Avhich separates it from James City, — N. by the same river separating it from New Kent, and W. by Henrico. Length 26 miles, mean breadth 8 ; area 208 sq. miles : extending from lat. 37° 9' to 37° 28' N. and long. 0° 5' E. to 0° 22' W. of W. C— The sur- face of the county is rolling. — This county being so advantageously situ- ated on tide water, transacts its mercantile business directly with the large cities, and hence has not given growth to the number of little villages, with which many of our counties are crowded. Population 1820, 5255 — in 1830, 5500. — Six attorneys, five regular physicians, and sundry Thomso- nians reside in the county. There are 2 Episcopal, 1 Quaker, 3 Baptist, and 4 Methodist churches in the county; also 1 classical academy, and seve- ral inferior schools ; 7 mercantile stores, 1 asylum for the poor, 5 grist mills, 2 saw mills, and various mechanics. Taxes paid in 1833, $1397 84 — in 1834, on land, $798 88—1579 slaves, $394 75—836 horses, $50 16—3 studs, $52 00— 33 coaches, $81 50— 8 carryalls, $8 00— 45 gigs, $28 45. Total $1413 74. — In the primary schools no operations. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Slc. CHARLES CITY C. H., P. O. near the centre of the county 30 ms. S. S. E. of R> and 152 from W.— The only buildings are the court house, clerk's office, jail, a tavern, and a private dwelling. County Courts are held on the Zd Thursday in every month; — Qnar- terly in March, May, August, and November. Judge Upshur holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the \st of Ajyril and I2th of October. EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 145 CHARLOTTE. Charlotte was created by the Legislature in 1764, from a part of Lunenburg county. The Southwestern border of Charlotte is washed by Staunton river, which separates it from Halifax. On the west, the line which separates Charlotte from Campbell runs on a ridge of highlands which give rise to waters flowing weslwardly into Falling river, and east- Avardly into Turnip creek. On the N. and N. E. the line, which separates Charlotte from Prince Edward, runs on a ridge of high lands, which give rise to Avaters flowing north and northeastwardly into the Appomatox, and south into the Staunton river. On the E. and S. E. the line, which sepa- rates Charlotte from Lunenburg, runs on a ridge which gives rise to waters flowing southoastwardly into the Meherrin, and westwardly into tributary streams of Staunton. On the S. the line which separates Char- lotte from Mecklenburg, runs on a ridge, which gives rise to waters flow- ing south into the Meherrin and northwestwardly into Bluestone. Length 22 miles, mean breadth 18, and area 600 sq. miles: extending in lat. from 36° 41' to 37° 16' N. and in long, from 10° 33' to 2° 05' W. of W. C— Charlotte county contains by actual surveys as entered on the commission- er's books, about 310,000 acres of land, valued, together with buildings, under the equalizing laws, to something near 2,275,000 dollars; the aver- age price per acre under that calculation including buildings is $8 75. The buildings being valued at nearly 356,000 dollars ; the average price per acre wihout the buildings is about $7 60.— The census taken in the year 1830, gives to the county, 15,252 souls— shewing about 20 acres to each individual in the county. The general surface of the county is greatly diversified with hills and vales, embracing every variety of soil, and is Avatered by numerous creeks and rivulets all tributa"ry to Staunton river, except the head branches of the Meherrin, on the E. and S. E. The principal streams of Charlotte flow- ing into Staunton and its tributaries, arc the foUoAving. "I'he first, beginning in the Avestern part of Charlotte, is Turnip Creek, the head Avaters of AA'hich rise in the neighborhood of the Red House, near the Campbell line, it runs south and enters Staunton river just above Cole's Ferry. This is not a large stream, yet it aflxirds considerable bottom or flat land, especially at and near its m'outh. It is from 15 to 20 miles in length. The next in order, proceeding southeastwardly is Cub Creek, the head branches of which are in Campbell county; from the place Avhich it enters the county to its junction vrith Staunton, the distance is from 30 to 40 miles. It has many tributary streams ;— those on the Avest are Bear Creek, risincr near the Red House. ' Turkc!/ Cock and Louse Creek,— the two first are inconsiderable streams, the last is from 10 to 12 miles in length and at and near its junction Avith Cub creek, a little above Baldwm's imlls, affords much valuable bottom lands. Those on the E. are Little Cub, Horsepen, Rough creek, and Tcrrijs creek. Cub creek with its tributary streams Avaters a large and valuable portion of the "PPfr ^"d of Charlotte, affording a considerable quantity of rich bottom land and hill sides well suit- ed to the groAvth of the various kinds of grain, and in many places, produc- ing tobacco of the finest quality. It enters Staunton river 3 or 4 miles be- loAV Cole's Ferry. , j i j- „ a.^^. Next is Wallace's creek. Its head spring is near the road leading from 19 145 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. Charlotte court house to Cole's Ferrj', it flows through a neighborhood of very good land, and enters Staunton just above Morton's Ferry: it is from 9 to 10 miles in length. Next in order is Little Roanoke ; which rises in the northeastern part of Charlotte, near the Prince Fidwnrrl line, and runs southwest tbrough the county and empties into Staunton river about 4 miles below Clark's Ferry. It is from 25 to 30 miles in length. This stream with its tributaries, waters a great part of the lower end of Charlotte, as well as a valuable part of the upper end. It is a low, flat and sluggish stream, afibrding very little fall of water, and contains as much bottom land as any in the state of its size and length ; particularly at its mouth ; where there is a body of rich low grounds, including those on Staunton, of fully a thousand acres. Randolph s Lower Quarter, situated below its mouth, itself contains be- tween 7 and 800 acres in one bodj'. The principal tributary stream, to Little Roanoke, on the west, is Wardsfork ; Avhich rises in the neighbor- hood of Chickentown in the upper end, and with its tributaries, waters the best tobacco land in the county ; indeed the lands on this stream arc remarkable for their universal fertilitJ^ It flows into L. Roanoke on a low bed at right angles — hence a large body of low grounds, the largest in the interior of the county, was for a long time under water and con- sidered irreclaimable. These grounds remained common until within a iew years past, and were so injurious to health as to be considered a public nuisance. About the year 1817 James W. Bouldin purchased a tract of land immediately in the fork, containing bottom lands on both streams, and commenced reclaiming. About the year 1819 his brother Judge Bouldin purchased a tract above on L Roanoke, and commenced draining : the plan of draining as it relates to the courses and location of the ditches on both purchases was laid out and executed under the direction of James W. Bouldin. By these means, certainly the largest, if not the finest body of low grounds, in the neighborhood of the Courthouse, is, from a wilderness of bogs, mire and stagnant waters, rendered arable and comparatively heahhy. The next tributary on the west i:s Diiniiivant ; which rises in the neigh- borhood of Edmond's Store, and flows through a neighborhood of good land, into L. Roanoke, just above Dabbs' Bridge. On the E. the first tributary stream is Hell's creek, though a small stream, it afibrds much good bottom land, particularly towards its mouth. It enters Liule Roanoke just below L. Roanoke bridge. Next in order are Spencer's and Spring creeks, rising on the dividing ridge, which separates Charlotte from Prince Edward and Lunenburg. They unite just before they flow into Little Roanoke. Just below their junction and at their mouth, there is a large body of valuable fiat land. That which lies above, immediately on L. Roanoke, is of the pipe clay soil and was formerly liable to inundations. Much has been done for its recovery from water and to improve its quality, still it is not equal to land above and below it. Next is Ash Camp, it rises in the neighborhood of Keysville, in a poor country, but as you descend this creek, the quantity and quality of the bot- tom lands increase. Ne.xt is Twltties' Creel-. It rises on the ridge, which separates the waters of Meherrin from those of Staunton river. This is a longer and larger stream than those just mentioned. It afibrds a considerable quan- EASTERN VIRGINIA— CflARLOTTE. 147 titv of flat lands, yet with some few exceptions, the plantations on this stream are not remarkable for their productions. It enters Little Roanoke on a tract of land on w-hich the late Judge Paul Caruinoton, Jr. resid- ed ; it is considered very valuable. The first brick house in the county was built on this tract. The next streams are the Horsepois. They vise on the same r'nlge, the branches of which water a cereal part of the soutl.e ist of Charlotte. The head stream.s rise in and run through a body of as poor lands as any in the state, but as you approach their mouths, the quantity and quality of good lands increase, and after they unite the Horsepen afibrds much valuable low grounds. It enters L. Roanoke just above Jo/m Randolph's Lower Quarter. ReynoliVs Creek is a tributary to this stream. It rises on the road that leads "from the Double Bridges in Lunenburg to Moseley's Ferry. It runs through a neighborhood once of very fine lands, but much exhausted by cultivation ; it enters the Horsepen just below Bedford's Bridge. Next to L. Roanoke on the S. we come to Sandy Creek. In this portion of the county the soil and quality of the lands are essentially different from those in other parts. The soil is universally sandy or gravelly, and upon a slight view, it would appear to those who lived on lands of a different texture, to be very unproductive ; but it is known to be as productive for all kinds of grain and grass as any in the county, similarly situated, and of late years tobacco is produced of fine qualhy by judicious cultivators. Those who live on these lands, say that they vegetate quickly, are soon exhausted, but revive speedily, when proper measures are used. Several valuable plantations lie on Sandy Creek, near its mouth. It is a short stream, and enters Staunton a little above Moseley's Ferry. After leaving Sandy Creek, the county becomes very narrow to its southern extremity, a ridge running between Bluestone and Staunton to its termination. The first tributary, to Staunton after leaving Sandy Creek, is Buffaloe. This stream rises in the neighborhood of Jeffrey's Store and runs into Staunton river, a few miles below Moseley's Ferry. The next are Ca.rglVs and Hogan's Creeks. Two small streams water- ing the extreme south of the county. Hogan's Creek with its branches Avater some very valuable land. Bluestone affords to this county somo very valuable land, originally very fine, having a red clay foundation with mulatto soil. Staunton river gives to this county as much valuable bottom^ lands, as it does to any county on its waters. On the western extremity of the county, at the' mouth of FalUng river, lived and died the distinguished Patrick Henry. His residence was on the termination of the ridge, which separates Charlotte from Campbell. It is called Red Hill, from which there is a very handsome southern view of a very large body of rich low grounds, estimated at 500 acres. It is now the property of his two youngest sons. The remains of the orator and his lady repose on the spot. The next most conspicuous place on the river, proceedmg southwardly, is called Ward's Neck, situated just above the mouth of Cub Creek, be- tween that and Cole's Ferry ; it is embraced by a large bend or curve of the river, corresponding with the Cove in Halifax, which lies just below it on the opposite side of the river. It affords several beautiful situations 148 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. for buildings, on elevated, fertile and level table lands, skirted by the richest and most fertile low grounds or river bottoms. The next place just below Clark's Ferry, is the residence of the late John Randolph of Roanoke. Proceeding southwest from the Court- house, on the main southern stage road, when getting within a mile of Clark's Ferry, a left hand road leads vip a gentle assent to the summit of the only hill in the county, dignified by the name of mountain. On this summit stands the buildings, late the residence of this illvistrious orator. They are situated literally iu the woods ; for there is not a vestige of land cultivated in view — they consist of two plain wooden buildings, of one story each, with tv^^o rooms on a floor, within a few steps of each other; the back building, which he mostly occupied, is entered through a piazza, on a pebble floor, the roof of which is supported by unhew/i posts taken im- mediately from the forest. Notwithstanding the simplicity of the out- ward appearance of these buildings, within the furniture, plate, paintings and library corresponded with the elevated characted of their owner, es- sentially rich but plain. A few steps to the west of the front building under a large pine tree, is interred the body of that Man, whose inimitable eloquence once electrified the people of the United States, and whose fame almost reached the remotest bounds of the civilized world. Immediately below Mr Randolph's, near the junction of the L. Roanoke with Staunton river, on an elevated and beautiful site, stands the residence of the late Judge Paul Carrington, Sen. It is now the property of his youngest son. Judge Carrington Avas a member of the bar of the county of Charlotte, when the county court was organized in the year 1765, he had been a practising lawyer and a member of the House of Burgesses, when this county was a part of Lunenburg. After the British Governor, Lord Dunmore, had abdicated the government of Virginia, a convention met in Richmond in the year 1775, to organize a provincial form of govern- ment and plan of defence for the colony. This plan of defence was sub- mitted by them to a committee of public safety. Paul Carrington was one of that committee. He subsequently became a Judge of the Court of Ap- peals, in which office he remained until a few years previous to his death. After leaving the lands at the mouth of the L. Roanoke, the quantity and quality of the low grounds decrease, so far as the county of Charlotte reaches on the river. Upon a general view of the soil, it may be said, that it is generous and free — that most of the wood, on the streams and hill sides has been cut down, the hill sides much exhausted, yet the bottom lands are generally productive, more especially where they are, in the hands of judicious cul- tivators. Our ridges contain the only forests, and they are mostly poor and barren— valuable only for their timbers. These remarks hold good gene- rally, except those tracts in possession of large land holders, on some of which, there are still some good bottom and high lands uncleared, particu- larly on L. Roanoke, Cub creek and Wardsfork. Agriculturalists say with confidence, that it is found by a proper course of cultivation, that all exhausted lands, originally good, especially those with red clay foundations are recoverable, and can be brought back to their original fertility— if so, it is confidently hoped that a spirit of improvement m agriculture may prevail, which will eflect this object. Mtnerals.—There is a singular vein of stone running throuc/h the coun- ty nearly from N. to S. It is composed of a series of round stones of va- EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. 149 rious sizes, sometimes very large; — the vein in some places is barely per- ceptible, consisting of only a few round pebbles, in others it protrudes a rugged mass of rocks. Gold and Silver have been diligently sought, but 7iot found. Elections. — There are 3 precinct elections in the county — 1 at Harvey's store in Chicken-town, 1 at Fuqua's store, above Louse creek, both in the upper end of the county; and I at M' Cargo's in the lower end, near Wii- liesburg. Poor. — The County Court has lately purchased land and erected build, ings about 7 miles from the C. H. for the accommodation of the poor. The present inmates are 6 males, and 9 females. This arrangement is expected to lessen considerably the poor rates of the county. Society. — The great men who have resided in Charlotte, and the many pious and good men which she has produced, operating by their example and exertions upon an intelligent community, have given to Charlotte so- ciety a tone of dignified and lofty sentiment, not often met with, and not soon to be laid aside. Two Agricultural Societies have lately been formed in the county; 1 at Charlotte C. H., the other near Wyliesburg in the lower end. These societies embrace the most wealthy and enterprising citizens of their re- spective neighbourhoods. The Main Western Road, from the east, leading by Prince Edward C. H. enters this county near the sources of Spring creek, after entering the county, the main or right branch crosses Cub creek at Harvey's bridge, thence by the Red House to Lynchburg and Campbel C. H. The left leads on by Rough creek church, crosses Cub creek, at Rawlins' bridge, after which it branches; the right goes on the ridge, on the head waters of Louse creek and Turkey cock, and intersects Avith a road leading from Cole's ferry, by the Red House, to Lynchburg. The left, at Rawlins' bridge, leads on by Chappel's shop, and Gaines' ; crosses Louse creek at Dennis', thence to Fuqua's store — after which it again branches: the Jirst right leads on to Hat creek in Campbell, the next to Booker's ferry and Red hill, crossing Turnip creek at Oliver's, just below Bruce's mill. The left to Cole's ferry. The next road that enters the county from the east by Prince Edward C. H. is the rnain southern stage road — it enters the county near the head waters of L. Roanoke, crosses that stream at L. Roanoke bridge, crosses Dunnevant, at Spencer's, thence to Charlotte C. H., a little above which, it branches: the right leading across Woodsfork to Price's old field, where it again branches: the right leading to White's tavern, where a left leads to the Red House, where it intersects with the main western road. The left at Price's old field leads to the road leading from Rough creek church to Booker's ferry, and to Cole's ferry. The left above Charlotte C. H. is the continuation of the stage road, and leads to Morton's ferry, and to Clark's ferry. The next road that passes through the county from the east, is by Moor's old ordinary in Prince Edward, it enters the county at Clark's, where it immediately branches. The right leads to L. Roanoke bridge; and thence to the main tcestern roadnear Chicken town : the left at Clark's leads to Keysville, thence to Charlotte C. H. At Keysville it branches, the right leading on the ridge between Ash camp and Tuelties' creek to 150 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHARLOTTE. Bouldin's old store,* thence to Charlotte C H. and thence it intersects with Booker's ferry road at Harris's. The next road, that enters the county from the east, is one that crosses the Double Bridges in Lunenburg; it enters the county near Hayleysburg, thence by Eubank's store, to Brigdewater's, near which place it branches. The left leading on the ridge separating the waters of Meherrin from a branch of the Bluestone, to Mack Goode's. The right or main road at Brigewater's leads by Leciprus' store, and M'Cargo's to Wyliesburg, when it branches; the right leads across Sandy creek by Brock's, to Mose- ley's ferry; the left leads to Callicote's, thence to Brook's where it intersects with the Mosely ferry road, to Jeffries' store, to Blank's ferry, and to Clarks- ville and Abbey ville, in Mecklenburg. Population in 1820, 13,290—1830, 15,252. Charlotte belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 5th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4,239 97— in 1834, on land, 822,177 77—5288 slaves, $1,322—3569 horses, $214,14 12. studs, $280—113 coaches, $283 65—24 carryalls, $24—99 gigs, $57 85. Total $4,301 41. Am't. expended in educating poor children in 1832, $360 16 — in 1833, $407 96. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, ike. FiNEwooD, P. V. 114 m's. S. W.jconiains a large C. H. built on a plan of R., and 205 from W., situated in furnished by Mr. Jefferson, a jail of 2 the lower end of the Co. on the wa- stories, with a jailor's house, also of 2 ters of Bluestone creek, on the road stories, immediately in front of it; all leading from Charlotte C. H. toBoyd-iof brick except the jail, which is of ton, Randolph Macon College, «kc. in ponderous hewn stone: — besides these, Mecklinburg, in a fertile and healthy neighbourhood. Friend's Grove, P. V. 195 S. S. W. of W., and 104 S. W. of R., 7 m's. E. of the C. H., and 4 from Keysville. It contains 1 mercantile store, a tobacco factory giving employ- ment to 30 hands, and a blacksmith shop. H.\rvey's Store, P. O. 108 m's. S. W. of R., and 199 from W. MARYSVILLE, P. O. and Seat of Justice, 30 m's. S. E. of Lynch- burg, 90 m's. S. W. of R., and 187 from W. in lat. 37° 03', N. long. 1° 52' W. of W. C, situated on the main southern stage road, on a ridge between Little Roanoke and its tribu- tary Wardsfork, about 4 m's. from the village contains 40 dwelling houses, a Baptist and a Presbyterian house of worship, 2 well kept taverns, 5 mercantile stores, 1 classical and 1 common school, a temperance society, and a bible society hold their quarter- ly and annual meetings in this place. The mechanics, are a tanner, 3 sad- dlers, and 2 tailor shops both of which employ a number of hands, 3 black- smiths, 4 wagon makers shops, each of which employ 8 or 10 hands, and 1 carriage maker, 1 cabinet maker, 3 boot and shoe factories, besides seve- ral house carpenters and bricklayers. The mail is delivered thrice a week. Population 475 persons; of whom 4 are attornej'^s, and 3 physicians. County Courts are held on the first their junction. The Public Square' 3Ioiulai/ in every raonih; — Quarterly * This place, Bouldin's old store, is one of the oldest settlements in this county ; the settlement was made by Col. Thomas Bouldin, who removed from Marvland, and settled here — within a few hundred yards of this place w^as buried the late Thomas T. Bouldin, deceased, here are buried also his father and grand father. Here also resides his mother, the sister of the late governor Tyler, active and healthy at the advanced age of 8'2 years. Seldom does it occur in this country, that the same jami- ly resides at the same phice for so long a time. EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 161 in March, May, August and Nnvrm- ber. Judge Leigh, holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the 16/A of April and Scj)/ ember. Harvey's Store, P. O. 108 rn's. from R. and 199 from W. Keysville, p. V. on the head of Mehcrrin river, 99 m's. S, W. of R. and 190 froni W. It contains 7 dwel- ling; houses, 1 mercantile store, a tav- ern, 2 wagon makers employing- ma- ny hands, 2 blacksmiths, 1 boot and shoe factory, an excellent wool-card- ing machine on an extensive scale, and a cotton gin. Population 70. Red House, P. O. 1 12 m's. S. W. of R., and 194 from W. Rough Creek Church, P. O. 105 m's. S. W. of R., and 196 from W., situated 9 m's. W. of the C. H. between Cub creek, and its tributary Rough creek : at this place there are 2 stores, a Presbyterian church, a blacksmith and tailor, several private dwellings, and a resident physician. This has been, and still is in some measure, a favourite place of resort for the people of the upper end for political or social purposes. Roanoke Bridge, P. O. 89 m's. S. W. of R. and 180 from W., situated on the waters of L. Roanoke in a fer- tile and healthy district: — contains a store, a mill, and a blacksmith shop. Wheeler's Spring, P. O. 99 m's. from R., and 190 from W. WvLiESBURG, P. O. 107 m's. from R., and 222 from W., situat(;d on the road leading from the Double Bridges to Moseley's ferry, 18 m's. S. of the C. H. It contains at this time a store, a blacksmith, and a resident phy- sician. This is a place of meeting for the lower end, as Rough creek church is for the upper end of the county. The road leading by Char- lotte C. H , and Reed's mill to Clark's ferrj-, is the dividing line of these 2 divisions. CHESTSKFIELD. Chesterfield was created by the House of Burgesses in 1748, from a part of Henrico. It is bounded N. by the James which separates it from Henrico, and Charles City, — E. S. E. by the Appomattox, which separates it from Prince George, — S. and S. \\. by the same river, separating it from Dinwiddie S. and Amelia S. W. — and W. N. W. by Powhatan. Extreme length from the junction of Appomattox with James, to the western angle 38 miles, mean breadth 12, — area 456 square miles. Lat. 37° 10' to 37^ 31' N. and long. 0° 22' to 1° 05' W. of W. C— The surface is broken, and the soil is poor except on the rivers. — The most profitable railroad in the world is in this county, from James river to the coal viines, a distance of 13 miles. We subjoin an account of these mines from the pen of a tra- veller : "These coal mines are on the south side of James river, about twelve miles above the city of Richmond. At this citj^the granite rock makes its appearance. It forms the bed of the river, and affords an inexhaustible water power. On the road to the Chesterfield mines, rocks are not seen until you get near the mines. The country is rolling, and has the aspect of barrenness and poverty — yet good husbandry would soon give to it fresh- ness and beauty. — The elevation is gradual to the west, and as far as I could judge, the summit level, at the mouth of the Maidenhead mine, is about 300 feet above the tide water in James river. "Within the circumference of about a mile square, there have been scve- 152 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. ral mines opened and seven or cigkt are now Avrought. The rock is not many feet below the surface, and is from two hundred and fifty to four hun- dred and fifty feet thick. The prevailing rock is a light grey coarse sand stone — rather hard and some of it sparkling with chrystalized quartz. This rock alternates with a bluish clay in a state of considerable compactness, and with shell. — Much of these last two are so filled v.-ith the sulphate of iron, minutely disseminated, that they soon decompose in the atmosphere. There is no trace of the lime rock, nor as yet of the old red sand stone. It is doubtful, however, whether they have reached the bottom of the coal for- mation. At the bottom of one of the shafts, the floor upon which the coal rests is called granite— but from the description of the rock, I concluded it must be the hardest of the seinite rocks. "The coal here is bituminous. The basins appear to be small, and the colliers complain of the faults and troubles in them. The coal seams are from a few inches to several feet in thickness — one has been found nearly twenty feet thick. The dip rarely exceeds forty-five degrees. Wooldridge's mine is the deepest and the only one which has a steam engine to raise the coal and the water out of the pit. The others employ mules. The mines are worked day and night, except Sundays — when the water is drawn as often as necessary to keep the works below from being flooded. Drifts are cut from the foot of the shafts, and some of those have been carried out seve- ral hundred yards. These are said to be from ten to twenty feet wide, and from five to twenty or thirty feet high. Mules are employed in the mines to draw the coal to the foot of the shafts. These are fed and stabled in the chambers of the mine. Nevertheless, they keep fat. And what is certainly not a little remarkable to a novice, these mines abound in rats. They go down, it seems, on the ropes, attracted into these tartarean abodes by the provisions and provender, which arc sent down for the negroes and mules. The negroes prefer this to labor in the field. "All these mines raise about two hundred tons of coal in each twenty- four hours. This coal is sent daily, (Sundays excepted,) in a team of se- venty to a hundred cars, over a fine rail- way thirteen miles, to the river. " There are several valuable coal mines on the north side of James river, in the western part of Henrico county. Coal has likewise been discovered in Goochland and Powhatan counties." Chesterfield belongs to the seventh judicial circuit, and fourth district. Population in 1820, 18,003~in 1830, 18,637. Taxes paid in 1833, $5231 31— in 1834, on lots $292 31— land, $2572 88— on 5266 slaves, $1316 50 —3134 horses, $188 64— 12 studs, $390 00—123 coaches, $291 35—2 stages, $6 00—46 carryalls, $52 00—234 gigs, $133 40. Total, $5252 08. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $601 65 — in 1833, $561 64. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Bellona Arsenal, a United States military post, situated on beau- tiful elevated ground, on the south side of James river, 14 ms. above Rich- mond, 135 from W. and 2 south of Bellona P. O., Henrico county. It was established in 1816-17, since which time it has been garrisoned by a company of U. S. Artillery. It has been a depot for a considerable quan- tity of military stores, and during a great portion of the time since its con- struction, a number of artificers have been employed in repairing and fabri- i EASTERN VIRGINIA— CHESTERFIELD. 153 eating small arms and other muni- tions of war. Immediately adjacent to the Arsenal, is Bellona Foundry, owned by Major John Clarke, who for a number of years past has been casting cannon, — under an annual contract with the government. — The guns made at this place are said to be unsurpassed in quality by any made in the United States. In consequence of the continuous expense and incon- venience of transportation to and from the arsenal — of the extreme difficulty arising from its isolated location, of obtaining and retaining the mechanics necessary for an arsenal of construc- tion — of the unsafe condition of the property at a point, Avhere from its contiguity to the coal pits, a greater number of negroes could be collected in a kw hours, than at any other place in the commonwealth, and of the re- puted unhealthiness of the place, — an order has lately been issued for aban- doning the post and removing the troops and property to Fort Monroe at Old Point Comfort. CoLEsviLLE, P. O. 36 ms. S. W. of R. and 158 from W. in the S. W. angle of the county. GooDSBRiDGE, P. O. 38 ms. S. W. of R. and 160 from W. Hallsboro', p. V. 17 ms. from R. and 139 from W. — situated on the Buckingham road leading from Rich- mond to Lynchburg, 15 ms. from Scottsville in Powhatan county, — in a healthy and pleasant neighborhood. The soil in the vicinity is rather poor, and most adapted to the culture of oats and corn. — It contains several dwelling houses, 1 large Baptist meet- ing house, (called "Be^Ae^,") a large, comfortable, and convenient tavern, a mercantile store, and a common schoo^ . 20 The Lynchburg stage passes every day in the week. Hatchersville, P. O. 11 ms. from R. and 133 from W. Manchester, P. V. 123 ms. from W. and 1 from R, — pleasantly situ- ated on the margin of James river, opposite to Richmond, to which it is united by Mayo's bridge across the rapids. It contains about 360 houses, 2 houses of worship, 1 Methodist and the other Baptist, 2 common schools, 6 grocery stores, 1 cotton seed oil mill, 1 cotton factory, with a capital of $70,000, 8 tobacco manufactories, 1 poor asylum, and 1 merchant mill. The principal mechanical pursuits are, house-carpentry, cabinet making, (to considerable extent,) coach making, blacksmith's work, &.c. Population 1500 persons; of whom two are at- torneys, and three physicians. The Chesterfield ond Manchester Rail Road connects the strata of bitu- minous coal on James river, with its tide water, at Manchester; — It extends 13^ miles in a single track, with se- veral turn-outs, and \h mile branch- roads to the coal beds. — The compa- ny was incorporated by the Legisla- ture in 1829, commenced work in January, 1830, and was opened for use in July, 1831. This road was so profitable as to afford a dividend of TEN PER CENT, to the Stockholders in the first six months; — A result which has not been equalled by any improvement in the United States, perhaps in the world. The cost of the road was 68,000 per mile; and including wagons, horses, &c. the whole disbursement of the company has been about $140,000; or $10,370 per male. Vadensburg, P. O. 20 ms, S. of R. and H2 from W. 154 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPEll. CUI.PEFER. CuLPEPEK was created by the Legislature in 1778 from a part of Orange. It is bounded N. and N. E. by the North Fork of Rappahannock river, which separates it from Fauquier N. and Stafford E. N. E.— E. and S. E. by the Rapid Ann river, which separates it from Spottsylvania E. and Orange S. E. — S. and S. W. by Orange, — W. and N. W. by the new county of Rappahannock. — We giv^e its dimensions as they existed pirior to the separation of Rappahannock, and expecting to receive information of the extent of the latter by the time it comes to press, by reference to that county, the present extent of Culpeper may be ascertained. Length of the old county from the junction of Rapid Ann and Rappahannock to its north- ern angle in the Blue Ridge 42 miles, — mean breadth 16, and area 672 square miles; extending in lat. from 3S° 15' N. and long, from 0° 35' to 1° 20' W. of W. C. — We do not as yet know precisely to what lat. and long, the eastern boundary of Rappahannock extends. Besides its two boundary streams, Calpeper is watered by a number of creeks and rivers flowing N. E. into the Rappahannock, S. E. into the Rapid Ann; but the former being- much longer, indicates the general slope of the county to be in that direc- tion, the chief of them is Aestham rirer which rises in Madison and crosses Culpeper; and next in importance. Mountain creek, which rises near the Madison line, flows nearly parallel to Hazel, branch of Aestham river, and empties like it into the Rappahannock. The surface is finely diversified Avith hill and dale, and contains large bodies of excellent land; of the same general character which pervades the counties generally on the eastern foot of the Blue Ridge. Population in 1820, 20,942 — 1830, 24,027. Culpe- per belongs to the 1 1th judicial circuit, and sixth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $3309 95— in 1834, on lots, $136 40— land, $1930 29— on 322^ slaves, $805 50—3119 horses, $187 14- -9 studs, $122 00—43 coaches, $99 75 — 33 carryalls, $40 75 16 gigs, $9 10. Total $3330 94. Amount expended in educating poor children in 1832, $1012 93 — in 1834, $735 01. Historical Sketch. — Culpeper covntij^ at all times respectable, but chiefly distinguished in the revolutionary war, for the services of her Ed- WARD Stevexs, her Jonx Green, and her gallant Minute Men, who, as Mr. Randolph said, in one of his speeches in the United States Senate, ^' were raised in a minute, armed in a minute, marched in a minute, fought in a minute, and vanquished in a minute;" — was first created in 1748, out of a part of the county of Orange. Every thing therefore of a prior date Avhich relates to the present county, must be sought either in Orange, or m Spotts^-lvania, from which Orange was taken in 1734, or in Essex, from- which Spottsylvania was taken in 1720; or lastly, in the o/rZ county of Rappahannock, which v/as divided in 1692; and Essex and the county of Richmond made out of it; with a direction that the records belonging to the county court of Rappahannock, prior to that division, Avhich Avas'inlfact an extinction of it, should be kept in Essex. — In 1793, Madison was taken from Culpeper, and in 1833, she was still further reduced in importance and extent by the act of assembly, which created a ncAV county and revived in it the name of Jxapjiahannock, with this difl^erence, that it is now the soil from which that valuable stream derives its sources, instead of that through which it flowed in the full majesty of its accumulated strength. The boim- daries of Culpeper, at the presen{ time, are the same that formerly existed, EASTERN VlRdTNIA— C'ULPKPEU 155 except the iliviiling line botween il and Kappahai\uock. Tlmt, ujifortunately, is so described, that it is impossible to say with certainty, what it is. The act directs that the boundary line of Rappahannock shall begin "at the cor- ner of Madison and Culpeper counties upon the top of the Blue Ridge of mountains, and run thence wilh the line of said counties to the point where it is intersected by Hugh's (Hughes's) river, above the junction of Hugh's (Hughes's) and Hazel rivers; thence with Hugh's (Hughes's) river to the junction of the aforesaid rivers: thence to a bend in the river near a point called the Giant's Castle; thence to Horner's mill upon the Faurpiier and Culpeper line;" and thence v>'ith the lines of the bordering counties to the beginning. Unluckily Hughes's river crosses the Madison line into what was formerly Culpeper, at the point which seems to be indicated by the foregoing description, in the natural construction of the words; — flows some distance, bends, and recrosses into Madison, — making a sort of insulated area between the river and the county line — and then some distance below crosses again into Culpeper, ai a poiai still above the junction with the Hazel. In the natural construction of the language, Culpeper still retains jurisdiction over soil that is thus entirelj^ detached from the body of the county, and which for convenience sake ought to belong to Rappahannock. The commissioners for running and marking the county line have perform- ed their duty fully, as it seems to us, and yet have not touched this ques- tion; which vrill perhaps occasion some diiiiculty, in various ways, unless the assembly shall interpose to make it clear/// a part of the one or the other county. Culpeper, in its original shape, co)nprehended all "the debateable ground" betweeen the Crown of England and Lord Fairfax, tliat lay on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, and v/as formerly the subject of a very interesting controversy, that deserves sUll to be remembered for the expla- nation it afiords of some things, which otherwise would be inexplicable. Charles the Second, while a fugitive from his kingdom, granted to Lord Hopton and others "all that entire tract of land, situated within the heads of the rivers Rappahannock and Quiriough or Potomac, the courses of the said rivers, as they are com_monly called and knoAvn by the inhabitants and descriptions of those parts, and Chesapeake bay, together with the rivers themselves, and all the islands within the banks of them;" and on the 8th of May, IGG9, after his restoration, and after that patent had been surren- dered, "in order that he might regrant the lands with alterations," — again granted the same tract of country to the Earl of St. Albans and others. — These afterwards sold their righl to Lord Culpeper; and Jam.es the Second, in the fourth year of his reign, but after he had in fact ceased to reign, con- firmed the patents, and granted the same tract to the Lord Culpeper, his heirs and assigns, forever. Such was the origin of the proprietary litletothc Northern Neck of A'irginia: — but if any doubt as to its validity could have existed, it was entirely removed, not only by universal acquiescence during the colonial government, but by solemn decisions of the highest judicial tribunal in the commonwealth' after the establishment of an independent government here. From Lord Culpeper this magnificent estate descended to his heir, Lord Fairfax; who (or his descendant, with the same title of nobility) afterwards removed to Virginia, and made it his residence. As the proprietors of the Northern Neck thus owned, the land lying between the Rappahannock, from its head to the bay, on the one side, and the Poto- mac, from its head to tlie bay on the other,— -and the Crown retained its title 156 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. to all the lands not included within those limits or other\vise granted away, — it was perfectly clear, in the first settlements, — which commenced on the seaboard, — to whom the settlers were to apply for a title to their lands. Below the falls, the Rappahannock was a well defined natural boundary : and as the land happened to lie on the north or the south side of it, the title was to be derived from the Proprietary or the Crown. Bat where the set- tlements upon that river extended towards the mountains, it was discovered that it was formed by the confluence, a short distance above the falls, and at the point which is now the extren)ity of Culpeper county towards the sea, — of two streams so nearly equal in magnitude, that it might well be doubted which of them led to the "head" of the Rappahannock. The one formed of several tributaries that might well dispute among themselves the honor of being the main branch of that arm of the river, has its source at Ches- ter's Gap in the Blue Ridge, and in its whole course from thence to the point of the Great Fork of the Rappahannock, (as it is called to distinguish it from the Little Fork, formed aboA'e by the junction of this stream with Aestham's river,) separates the present counties of Fauquier, and (to a very small extent) Stafford, on the north, from Rappahannock and Culpeper on the south. The other, formed in like manner, has its source at that point in the Blue Ridge where the four counties of Orange, Madison, Rocking- ham and Shenandoah meet; and in its whole course from thence to its con- fluence with the former, it separates the present counties of Orange, and (to a very small extent) Spottsylvania on the south, from Madison and Cul- peper on the north. If the latter vrere the main branch of the Rappahan- nock, and consequently the boundary of the proprietary tract, — grants oi all the lands lying in what — from 174S to 1793 — was Culpeper co. (and now makes the three counties of Culpeper, Madison and Rappahannock,) were to be obtained from the proprietors of the Northern Neck: if the former, then from the Crown. And by drawing one line on the map of the state, from Fairfax's store, at the head of the North Branch of the Potomac, on the Back Bone of the Alleghany mountains, between the counties of Hardy and Randolph, to the former, — and another from the same point to the lat- ter, (head of the Rappahannock,) it will be found that the title depended upon the same considerations, to a larger tract of country on the western side of the Blue Ridge, than even these three counties on the eastern. As early as the year 1705, upon the presentation of a patent for lands lying within the limits of this debateable ground, — to be signed by the pro- per agents of the royal government in this colony, — the agent for the pro- prietor of the Northern Neck objected to it — and thereupon an order of council was made, that neither the Crown or the proprietor should issue patents for such lands, until the dispute should be settled, and that commis- sioners mutually chosen should view the two branches of the Rappahan- nock, which Ave have before described. They were accordingly chosen, and reported that the streams appeared to be of equal magnitude: — and some other persons (styling themselves Wood's trustees,) by the request of the proprietor's agent, certified the same thing. After this the colonial government seems to have treated the territory on the south side of the North Fork of the Rappahannock, rising at Chester's Gap, as belonging to the Crown: — for in 1720, an act of assembly was passed, creating the county of Spottsylvania, which, in declaring its' boundaries, directed a line to be run over the high mountains to the river on the north west side there- of, thence down the said river until it comes aga'mst the head of Rappa- EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEPER. 157 hannocli, thence to the head of Rappahaimock river; and doicn that river to the mouth of Snow Creek. And in 1734, an act was passed /or divid- ing Spotfst/h-ania, which directed that all that territory of land adjoining to and above the dividing line thereby established, bounded S. by the line of Hanover county, (as it was then called,) northerly by the grant of the Lord Fairfax, and westerly by the utmost limits of Virginia, should be "thenceforth created into one distinct county, and be called and known by the name of the county of Orange. In 1748, an act was passed for dividing the county of Orange, which created the county of Culpeper; — and until the creation of Rappahannock in 1S33, Culpeper always extended to that North Fork and to Chester's Gap; and in fact, in tracing the titles to land in the old county of Culpeper, it is found, that the patent, during this period, was usually granted in the name of the King — sometimes in the name of Lord Fairfax. In 1733 that lord obtained from the King instruc- tions to the colonial government to appoint commissioners to settle the dis- pute about the boundaries, and to issue no more patents for lands lying within the contested districts, until the dispute Avas ended ; but these instruc- tions were not communicated to the governor and council until 1730. In that year Lord Fairfax arrived in the colony with the instructions ; and in the course of that and the succeeding year, a survey, in pursuance of them, was made of the Northern Neck, by the commissioners, who, differing in opinion, made separate reports: wliich, in 1733, were referred to the com- mittee of the council (in England) for plantation affairs, upon whose report, the King, on the 1 Itli of April 174.5, determined that all the lands contained between the head springs of the Potomac and the south branch of the Rap- pahaimock, as we have before described it,) and the mouths of the 2 rivers, belonged to Lord Fairfax. In the meantime the commissioners had made their reports to the colonial government, which, from the alarm thereby oc- casioned to the holders of lands within the unsettled limits, who had derived their titles from the Crown, produced remonstrances and counter petitions before the governor and council: — and they confirmed the survey and re- port, that were most favourable to Lord Fairfax, upon the terms, that he should establish all the grants that had been made "by the Crown: to which effect an order was made by the Lord on the 21st of December 1738. The royal order in council, already mentioned, also recited that Lord Fairfax had consented, and indeed proposed, " that all the grantees of lands under the Crown within the boundaries aforementioned, should quietly enjoy their lands according to their respective grants; and likewise to do and consent to all such acts as should be thought necessary to confirm and decree such grantees in the quiet possession of their said lands; and thereupon directed that the colonial government should not make any grants of lands within the said boundaries, or molest or disturb Lord Fairfax in the quiet posses- sion and enjoyment of the lands contained therein ; provided the said lands should be subject to the grants made of any parts thereof by his majesty, or any of his royal predecessors, and that the Lord Fairfax should comply with his proposal before mentioned. And in 1748, an act of assembly was passed which gave the form, and sanction and validity of law to this com- promise, as it might properly be called, — establishing the head spring of Rappahannock, commonly called Conway, as the proprietor's southern boundary, and confirming the titles of grantees from the Crown. At the same session the whole of the land, on the eastern side of the Blue Ridge, Avhich had been the subject of this important and protracted controversy, 153 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CULPEl^ER. Avas created into a separate and distinct county; and it was named after Lord Culpeper, the ancestor of the then present proprietor. At the C. H. of the county a town was established by an act passed in 1759, which was called after the proprietor of the county himself, Fairfax, and has continued ever since to be the seat of justice for the county, by the same name. It Avas recently, by an act passed in 1834, incorporated; and at this time contains a C H., jail, and clerk's office, on the public square, all handsome buildings, an episcopalian and a presbyterian chiirch built of brick, and a masonic hall built of wood, with a large wooden meeting house in the immediate vicinity, belonging to the Baptist denomination: — its streets are broad and laid out in a rectangular form, and are Avell sup- plied with pumps. I'here are 3 taverns, besides some boarding houses, 9 stores ; 1 watch maker and jeweller's shop, 2 saddlers, 4 shoe makers, 4 tailors, and mantuamakers, 1 hattei', 3 blacksmiths, 2 carpenters and cabi- net makers, 1 considerable establishment for making Avagons, &c. and another quite extensiA'e for making coaches, carriages, «kc. The Piedmont line of post coaches, passes through this place. It contains also 7 lawyer's offices, 3 doctor's shops, and a parsonage house, Avhich the vestry of the Episcopal church have purchased, and the ladies have nearly paid for, by that ingenious method of making much out of little, Avhich has been latterly practised AA^ith such general success — a fair. There are in the immediate vicinity of the town 3 schools, all on private foundations, and 1 market house, also on private foundation;— 2 respectable lanyards are kept up in sight of the town. There is a printing establisliment, from Avhich issues a Aveekly paper, under the title of the Culpeper Gazette; and another very recently established, that sends forth weekly, The Messenger. TOWNS, YILLACIES, POST OFFICE, &c. Amissvili.e, p. O. 121 ms. fromjms, from Fairfax, and 10 from R., and G9 from W. Woodville, in Rappahannock. It Colvin's Tavpjrn, p. O. 90 ms. contains a tavern, store, and black- from R., and 80 from W. FAIRFAX, P. O. and seal of Jus- tice, 88 m.s. N. W. of Fredericks- burg, 76 S. W. of W. and 94 from. R., in lat. 38° 26', long. 1. 04', W. of C. Coiinhj Courts are held on the 2nd smith shop. .Tefi'ersonton, p. v. 109 m's from R., and 61 S. S. W. of W., situ- ated near the right branch of the Rap- pahannock, in the N. E. angle of the countA?-, and on the Piedmont stage Moii.day in every month: — Quartcrlj/ixoMia from Washington to Milledge- in March, Mai/, August and Novem-\\\\\e, Georgia. The tOAA'n is built on her. Judge Field holds his Circuit one street, and contains 43 dwelling Superior Court of Law and Chancery houses, 1 Baptist house of Avorship, 1 on.i\\eZrd of June and ilh of Norein-]FeYn^\it association, for the purpose ber. [See above, on this page.] of educating young men for the min- Grantley's p. O. 116 ms. fromJstry, 1 Elementary school Avith 50 R., and 59 ms. S. of W. scholars : also, 3 mercantile stores, 3 Griffinsburg. P. O. 103 ms. from taA'erns, 1 tanyard, 1 hat m.anufactory, R., and 85 ms. S. W. of W., situated on the main road leading from Thorn- ton's Gap in the Blue Ridge, to Fredericksburo-, 18 ms. from the 3 boot and shoe factories, a wagon maker, carriage maker, and 3 house carpenters. Population 300; of Avhom 2 are physicians. ire's Sulphur former, and 50 ms. from the latter, 8 Springs, a place of considerable resort EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERLAND. 159 in summer, arc only 2h ms. from Jcf- fersonton. Locust Dalk, P. O. 8G ms. from R., and 86 ms. S. S. W. of W. Midway, P. O. 9") ms. from R., and 68 S. S. W. of W. RicHARDsviLLE, formerly Smilhh Tavern, P: O. 95 ms. from R., and 71 S. W. of W., situated on the stage road from Fredericksburg to Fairfax, 18 ms. distant from each; in the gold region and near some of thebest mines yet discovered in Virginia. Racoon Ford, P. O., situated im^i mediately on the banks of Rapid Ann,! 15 ms. by water above its confluence; with the Rappahannock, 30 W. of] Fredericksburg, 15 N. E. of Orange C. H., and 10 S. E. of Fairfax. It contains 8 dwelling houses, a mer- cantile store, house of entertainment, merchant mill, grist mill, saAv and shingle mill, wool carding machine and cotton gin, boot and shoe factory, a tailor, blacksmith, wagon maker, and carriage maker. Population 35 whites, and 45 blacks. Total 80. Rexeville, p. O. 101 ms. from R. and 79 S. W. by W. of W., situated: handsomely on a healthy, and high! position, in the midst of a fertile coun- Xry, on 1 of the north branches of the Rappahannock, and immediately on! the stage road, Avhich leads from' Washington to Charlottesville, 60 ' ms. from the latter. It contains 12 dwelling houses^, a mercantile store, new house of entertainment, tanyard,! shoe factory, cooper's shop, Avheel- wright, Wacksmith; and has a school in the neighbourhood. This littlei village is rapidly improving, the vi-j cmity being occupied by wealthy and] industrious farmers. I I Rock Mills, P. O. 113 ms. from R., and 75 S. AV. of W. I Stkvensburg, p. V. in the south- iern part of the county, 95 ms. from R. land 83 ms. S. W. of W.— beautifully situated between the Rapid Ann, and Rappahannock river, on the stage road from Fairfax to Fredericksburg, 7 ms. distant from the former, and 30 from the latter. It contains 20 dwel- ling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 1 house of worship, free for all de- nominations. Population 150 per- sons; of whom 2 are physicians. This place was formerly much resorted to by inhabitants of the lower counties during the sickly seasons. Thornton's Gap, P. O. 120 ms. N. W. of R., and 102 ms. N. W. by W. of W., situated in the western part of the county in the gap of the Blue Ridge. TiioMPSoNviLLE, P. O. 104 ms. from R., and 75 S. W. by W. of W. It contains 7 dwelling houses, 2 houses of worship, 1 Baptist, and 1 free for all denominations, 3 mercantile stores^ and 2 blacksmith's shops ; there are 3 merchant mills in the vicinity. Pop-- ulation 70. There is a benevolent societ}', which holds its meetings at this place. Waylandsburg, P. V. 102 ms. from R. and 84 S. W. of W., situated on Crooked Run, Avhich separates Madison from Culpeper, near the road between Fairfax and Orange C H., 8 ms. W. of the former, 74 from; the latter, and 8 N. E. of Madison C H. It contains 18 houses, 1 of Avhich is a merchant mill with 4 pair of stones, and 1 a saw mill. Population 13. CUMBERLAND. Cumberland was created by the House of Burgess's in' 1748, from a part of Goochland. It is bounded N. by .Fames river, which separates it from Fluvanna, and Goochland, E. by Powhatan, S. E. and S. by the Appomat- 160 EASTERN VIRGINIA— CUMBERRLAND. tox which separates it from Amelia, and Prince Edward, and W. by Buck- ingham. Length 32 ms., mean breaith 10, and area 323 sq. ms. extending- in lat. from 37^ 12' to 37° 39' N. and long, from 1° 13' to 1° 40' W. of W. C. The slope of this county is N. E., and the central part is drained by Willis's river, which empties into the James, a few miles above Carters- ville. This stream is navigable by boats to Curdsville, a small town in Buckingham: (See Buckingham.) This county is also watered by 4 creeks, which rise in the upper part within 3 or 4 miles of each other, near Rains' tavern. Bear branch empties into Willis's river. Great Guinea after running about 20 miles in the county empties into the Appomattox. Angle creek about 12 miles long, and Green creek, about 3; both of which afford much fertile bottom lands; — and Little Gunea, all flow into the Ap- pomattox. The Appomattox waters, and bounds the southern part of the county from Povv'hatan to Buckingham, about 30 miles, and the James river on the north, by making a considerable bend, bounds and waters about the same distance. The surface is undulating, and the soil productive. The staples are in- dian corn, wheat and tobacco. The latter has been considered the princi- pal article, but of late the farmers have turned their attention more to the cultivation of wheat; by which the lands have much improved, and the im- provement is still progressing. Iron and coal have recently been discovered, on the Appomattox, near Farmville. The prevailing religious sects, are Presbyterians, Baptists, and Methodists: — there are 10 houses of public worship, and 4 resident min- isters: — there are 4 flour manufacturing, and a number of grist mills in the county. Population 1820, 11,023—1830, 11,690. Cumberland belongs to the 8th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2,881 80,in '34, on lots. $59 13— land, $1,458 19—3850 slaves, 8962 50—2,161 horses, $129 66— 7 studs, $134— 50 coaches, $123 15—34 carryalls, $46 55— 107 gigs, $68 70. Total $2,985 88. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $376 73— in 1834, $196 38. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST-OFFICES, &r. Ca Ira, P. V. in the W part of the county, 72 ms. S. W. of R., and 148 from W., situated 45 ms. E. N. E. of Lynchburg, on the N. side of Willis's river,5 ms.W. oi Cumberland C. H, 16 N. E. of Farmville, and 18 ms.from Buckingham C.H. surround- ed by a fertile country. Willis's ri- ver is navigable to Curdsville, in Buckingham, 12 ms. above this place, and 60 ms. from its mouth. Ca Ira contains about 40 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores — selling $40 000 worth of goods annually, a merchant mill, which grinds from 28 to 30,000 bushels of wheat in the grinding sea- son, a tobacco warehouse, at v;hich from 3 to 500 hogsheads of tobacco are annually received, a house of wor- ship free for all denominations, 2 ta- verns, and a masonic hall: — there are also among the mechanics, 2 tailors, 2 wheehvrights, 2 blacksmiths, and 2 plough manufacturers. This village was until lately un- healthy, and nearly depulated upon two different occasion: this was attri- buted to the pond attached to the man- ufacturing mill, which covered 200 acres of ground, and nearly sur- rounded the village, and produced very severe bilious attacks. The dam has now been removed 2 ms. up the stream, and the water brought down by a navigable canal : the old pond has been filled up, and it.s site EASTERN VIRGINIA — DINV ^VIDDIE. 161 yields immense and health is re- cultivated, Avhich crops to the owners stored to the villarrc. Population 210 Three mails a week are received. Cartersvili.e, p. V. on the right bank of James river, 47 ras. W. of R and 12:2 from W., situated in a fertile and healthy country. It contains 50 dwelling houses, 1 house of worship free for all denominations, a common school, a merchant mill, which grinds from 20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat annually, 5 mercantile stores, 3 gro- ceries, 2 builders of thrashing ma- chines, 2 lanyards, 1 saddler and many other mechanics, such as Avheel- wrights, plough makers, blacksmiths, shoe makers, &.c. Considerable trade is carried on in wheat and other pro- duce of the surrounding country. — Population 300 souls; of whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 physicians. CUMBERLAND, C. 11. P. V. 55 ms. from R., and 140 from W. situated on a high and healthy ridge between Willis's river and the Appo- mattox; commanding a beautiful view of the Blue Ridge. It contains be- sides the county buildings, 5 dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns, a saddler, boot and shoe factory, tai- lor, and various other mechanics. There is a house of worship in the vicinity, free for all denominations. The surrounding county is tolerably fertile, producing corn, wheat, oats, tobacco, &c. Population 30 whites and GO blacks. Total 90. County Courts are held on the ilh Motiday in every month; — Quarterly in February, May, July, and October. Judge Daniei., holds his Circuit Su- perior Court of Law and Chancery, on the \st of April and September. Lang horn's Tavern, P. O. 61 ms. W. of R., and 146 from W. Raines', P. O. 69 ms. W. of R., and 154 from W. Stonev Point Mills, P. O. in the southern part of the county, 61 ms. S. W. by W. of R., and 146 from W., situated on the Appomattox river, 60 ms. above Petersburg, 16 ms. below Farmville. and 5 ms. S. of Cnmbcr- Innd C. H. It contains 20 houses, 1 large manufacturing mill, 2 mercan- tile stores, a wheelwright, blacksmith, coopei', and tailor Tobacco of as good quality as any in Virginia, is raised in this ncighbourhoofl. The soil is susceptible of high improve- ment. The Avater power is sufficient for iTiachinery of any extent. Popu- lation 90 persons; I of whom is a physician. DINWIDDIE. Dinwiddie was created by the Legislature in 1752, from a part of Prince George. It is bounded E. by Prince George, — S. E. by Sussex, — S. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Brunswick, — W. by Notto- way, — ^nd N. W. by Amelia. Dinwiddie is in form a hexagon, with a diameter of about 28 miles; — area about 616 sq. miles. It is divided near- ly into equal parts by the parallel of 37° N. lat. — its long, lies between 0*^ 33' and 1° 3' W. of W. C. The northern part of the county, about one- fourth of the whole, slopes north and is drained by the Appomattox. The remainder inclines S. E. is drained by Monks Creek, S/oney, Sapony, and other tributaries of Nottoway river. — The surface is undulating. — Popu- lation in 1820, 13,792— in 1830, 21,801. Dinwiddie belongs to the second judicial circuit, and first district. Taxes paid in 1833, $6538, 50 — in '1834, on lots, $2736 59— land, $1863 68—5962 slaves, $1496 50—2673 horses, $160 33— 7 studs, $258 00— 134 coaches, $348 25— 49 carryalls, 21 162 EASTERN VIRGINIA— DIN WIDDIE. $49 55—233 gigs, $135 83. Total, $7042 78 Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $412 94 ; in 1833, $217 68. TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. DINWIDDIE C. H. & P. O. sit- uated on Stoney Creek, 15 ms. S. W. of Peterburg, 40 from R. and 162 from W. County courts are held on the third Monday in every month. Quarterly, March, May, August and .Xovcfnber. Judge May holds his Superior Court of Law and Chan- cery on l5^ April and September. GooDwvNsviLLE, P. O. 47 m's. S. S. W. of R. and 169 from W. Harrisville, or Wyoming, 54 m's S. of R. and 176 from W., situat- ed in the S. E. corner of the county, near Nottoway river, on the main southern stage road. It contains a mercantile store, blacksmith shop, and wheelwright. In the vicinity there are 2 extensive manufacturing mills ; and the surrounding country is very thickly settled. PETERSBURG, Fort of Entry, and P. O. 22 miles S. of R. arid 144 S. S. W. of W. lat. 37^ 13' and long. 24° W. of W. C: situated on the right or southern bank of Appo- mattox river — 12 ms. above its junc- tion with James river in the northern angle of the county, where it joins Prince George and Chesterfield ; so that a part of the town is in each of those counties. This depot is well situated to sustain a high commercial rank amongst the ports of Virginia. The harbor admits vessels of consi- derable draught, and the adjacent country is well peopled and cultivated. The falls of Appomadox near which the city stands, affords an illimitable water power, whilst a canal obviates the impediment to navigation. Pre- vious to the year 1815 the buildings were nearly all of wood, but in the summer of that year nearly all those situated on the rno.st commercial streets were consumed by fire. Since that event the town ha.? been rebuilt with neat and substantial brick houses and, in value as well as appearance, is very much improved. The num- ber of houses besides the county buildings, which are; handsome, may be estimated at about 800. There are 7 houses of public worship, be- longing to Episcopalians, Methodists, Baptists and Presbyterians, — a Ma- sonic Hall, female orphan asylum, se- veral common schools and one free school ; the latter is on the Lancastc- rian plan and was endowed principal- ly by a legacy left to the town, for that purpose by a benevolent indivi- dual, (Da\'id Anderson,) and is called the ''Anderson Seminary.^'' There are six tobacco factories, six manufacturing flour mills, 1 brass and cast-iron foundry, 2 earthen-ware pot- teries, 2 cotton-seed-oil mills, numer- ous mercantile stores, and 4 druggist shops. The principal mechanical pursuits are — 2 printing offices, by which 2 weekly papers are issued, and considerable book-work-printing done, 4 carriage manufacturies, 5 wheelwrights, 4 cabinet makers, 3 jersey wagon makers, 3 brick mold- ers, 1 stone cutter and mill stone maker, ^ tanneries, 5 saddlers, 15 blacksmiths, 4 coppersmiths and tin- plate workers, 3 jewellers and watch makers, and many house carpenters, tailors, hatters, milleners, and mantua makers. Petersburg is now rapidlv increasing in bvisiness in consequence of its Rail Road, to the Roanohe river, which is about sixty miles long, and affords an opening by which largequantitiesof produce are brought to this market from the upper Roan- oke and from the interior of North Carolina, and by which goods are with much facility returned in ex- change, as the cars run daily to the Roanoke and buck again. The irrade EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. 169 of the road, with the excejDtiou of two or three planes, with an ascent of twenty-seven or thirty feet per mile, is very favorable to the use of the locomotive engine ; and their success with this kind of power has not been surpassed in the country. They have now three engines upon the road, a part of which have been at work up- wards of nine months, and made their trips with as much regularity as could have been expected from horse pow- er. One of those, the "Liverpool," is probably, for her weight, the most effective engine of the country. This, and one of the other engines on this road, were constructed by M. Burry, of Liverpool, who has also furnished two engines for one of the Schuylkill rail roads, which we are informed work equally well. The proprietors of this road consider it as part of the great line of communication from north to south, and look to its ultinmte connexion with the Charleston rail road, by similar works through North Carolina. Another channel by^ which much produce is brought to this market, is the Upper Appo- moltox CariaL — through'which there is a constantly increasnig trade. To this market there have been brought in one year 40,000 bales of cotton, 5,000 hogsheads of tobacco and more than 100,000 bushels of wheat, besides many other articles. Petersburg is also much indebted for her pro.sperity to her cotton fac- tories ; of Avhich at present, there are three: — The first established was that of the Petersburg Manufacturing Companv, in the year 1828. This factory commenced spinning in the fall of that year with 500 spindles, and the number was gradually in- creased, until it now runs 2500, which daily spin about 1200 pounds of j'arn, or three hundred and sixty thousand pounds per annum. This yarn is made of the best cotton brought to the market, and the most of it is sold in ^-arn itself without further manu- facture ; some part of it is woven at the factory into a heavy cotton cloth called "oznaburgs," and is stamped ''Virginia cloth,'^ in consequence of the likeness between this and the cot- ton cloth formerly so well known in this state by that name. This facto- ry gives employment to none but white persons, and has constantly employed about 110 operatives, who are mostly young girls, of good char- acter and industrious habits, who re- ceive in vi'eekly wages about thirteen thousand dollars per annum. — The Mercha?its' Manufacturing Compa- ny/ has two factories, one of which is on a small scale, and has for some years been in operation, the other re- cently erected, has but lately begun to spin ; it has a commodious house well planned, and runs 3500 spindles and a number of looms capable of weaving from 1500 to 2000 yards of cotton cloth per day and employs about 200 operatives. It is in con- templation to erect, ere long, two other cotton factories, on a large scale, and as the water power here is great, the raw material plenty, and operatives readily procured, it is probable that at no distant day, Petersburg will be a considerable manufacturing town. — From the town, a considerable for- eign trade is carried on with Eng- land, France, Holland, and Germanyi and goods of all descriptions are her^ plenty and cheap. Large ships load at City Point. The navigation from City Point to this place until lately was bad, afPjrding not more than four feet water — but within a few years works have been completed on the river, Avhich have deepened it to about seven feet. — At one time this town was considered unhealthy, but by draining and filling up marshes, and by other improvements, it has now become as salubrious as any^ part of lower Virginia; and has the char- acter of being hospitable and patri- otic ; and a very delightful place of residence. The Bank of Virginia I6i EASTERN VIRGINIA— DINWIDDIE. and Farmers' Bank of Virginia have each a branch at this place. It pos- sesses also an insurance office, and custom house. Population 1830, 8,322. Co)-porafloyi courts are held on the third Monday in every month ; Quarterly in March, May, August and November. Judge May holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the first of April and September. Poplar Grove, P. O. 39 ms. S. of R. and 161 from W. RicHiEviLLE, P.O. 62 ms. S. of R. and 164 from W. Safpony Creek, Cross Roads, and P. O. 44 ms. from R. and 166 from W. In the southern part of the county, 22 ms. S. S. W. of Peters- burg. The creek is a branch of Sto- ney Creek", and the latter of Notto- way river. EI.IZABETII CITY. ElTzabeth City was one of the eight original shires into which Vir- ginia was divided in 1634. — It is bounded E. by the Chesapeake, S. by Hampton Roads, N. by Back river, Avhich separates it from York, and W. by Warwick.— Its form is nearly that of a square, about 18 miles on each side; — area 64 square miles. It extends from 37° 02' to 37° 08' N. lat. and from 0° 37' to 0° 47' E. of W. C. Population, 1820, 3,789—1830, 5,053. — It belongs to the 3d judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Taxes paid in 1833, $794 24— in 1834, on lots, $184 62— on land, $316 63—912 slaves, $228 00—408 horses, $24 43—3 studs, $71 00— 7 coaches, $16 00—49 carryalls, $49 5.5—233 gig.s, $135 83. Total, $7042 78. Ex- pended in educating poor children in 1832, $45 39 — in 1834, no report. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. of their labor in their own town; but the Fortifications at Old Point Com- fort, and the Rip Raps, have been for sometime past the principal source of revenue to tlie inhabitants both of the town and county, by the wages given for negro laborers. Hampton is as healthy as any town in lower Virgi- nia. jPopulation in 1830, 1120. — There are 2 attorneys, and 4 physi- cians. County Courts arc held on the 4//t Thursday in every month: — Quar- terly in March, June, August and November. Judge Upshur holds his Circuit Superior Court of L^aw and Chancery on the 24/A of April and 19///, of Sep- tember. Old Point Comfort, or For- tress Monroe, cape and P. O. 12 ms. in a direct liije a little W. of N. Norfolk, 3 ni-s. S. E. of Hampton, the HAMPTON, P. V. and county seat, 96 ins. from R. and 199 S. E. of W. Hampton is a sea port, situated on Hampton Roads, 2^ miles from Fortress Monroe, 18 from Norfolk, 24 from York Town, and 36 from Wil- liamsburg. — It contains about 130 houses; 2 Methodist, 1 Baptist, and 1 Episcopalian meeting house, 1 Aca- demy and 1 private school, 6 dry good stores, 10 grocery stores, 2 taverns, 3 castor oil manufactories, (2 in town and 1 adjacent.) The principal me- chanical pursuits arc, shoe making, blacksmiths' work, house-carpentry, and ship-buildiug. Hampton has for some time been declining: — There is no commerce or inland trade to sup- port it. Hampton is the place of re- sidence for nearly all the pilots for James river, and the neighborhood of Norfolk; and when trade was brisk, they circulated nearly all the proceeds EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. 1G5 county seat, and 202 ms. S. S. E. of W. C. The promontory, particular- ly called Old Point Cointbrt, is almost exactly on kit. 37", and with the op- posing- point, AVillioughby, on the riglit shore, forms the real mouth of James river, the intervening strait se- parating- Lynhaven bay from Hamp- ton Roads. The channel which leads in from the Capes of Virginia to Hampton Roads, is, at Old Point Comfort, re- duced to a very narrow line. The shoal water, whicli, under the action of the sea, and reacted upon by the bar, is kept in an unremitting ripple, has given the name of Rip Raps to this place. When the bar is passed, Hamp- ton Roads, which extend to Norfolk, about eighteen miles distant, into which James river, Elizabeth river, and Nansemond Mouth empty, afford the finest anchorange in the world, and in them its navies might ride with perfect safety. With a view of mak- ing this a secure retreat for ships of war and for our commerce, in any fu- ture contest with a naval power. Fort Monroe was built on the point, on the right side of the channel at the en- trance of the Roads — and the castle of the Rip Raps is directly opposite the point, at the distance of about 1900 yards. The two forts will complete- ly command the channel, and it will be impossible for a single ship of war to pass without the permission of the power holding the fortresses. They are so constructed as to present im- mense batteries of cannon upon an approaching ship, from the moment she comes in reach, from the Capes, and throughout all the bendings of the cha)inel it must still be under the power of the cannon: for the forts present a new aspect at every turn, and in all probability the interdicted ship would be a wreck, or a confla- gration, from the hot shot throAvn into her, before she completed half the cir- cuit of the channel. There is much salutary experience, bought however dearly, in the lessons of the late -war. These Avaters were then the resort of the British fleets, and while all American vessels were either driven from their own harbors, or captured, the enemy made himself at home here — sent detachments to Baltimore and Washington — ravaged the shores of the Chesapeake' — burnt our Capitol and Navy Yards, and laid the whole country under contri- bution: The erection of the two Forts at this central point of our sea- board, gives us a refuge to our naval force, if driven in by superior num- bers, and will, in effect, not only oc- clude Hampton Roads to the enemy, and shut him out from James river and Norfolk, our naval depot, but must deter him ever venturing up the Chesapeake bay. If such an attempt were made, the first calm would put the most powerful fleet of an enemy completely at the mercy of a kw steam frigates or steam batteries, which, by means of their self-moving power, would be enabled to take such posi- tion as suited them, and to set fire to the ships of the enemy with hot shot, or cut them off in detail. The shel- ter of these forts, too, would enable a few ships, lying in security under their guns, to sally out and take advantage of any storm which might separate a blockading force, exposed to the acci- dents of an open sea. These circvunstances give great im- portance to the Avorks which are to form the gates at Hampton Roads — and, as a consequence, in a great de- gree to the whole Chesapeake bay. Fort Monroe is already finished, and is at this moment in admirable condi- tion, if its armaments were completed. The Rip Raps structure, is a mon- ument, worthy of the people who have lavished their means in its erection, and of the genius of the engineers by whom it was planned. The area of the structure, as originally staked off includes five acres; a great part of which was 22 feet below the surface 16G EASTERN VIRGINIA— ELIZABETH CITY. of the sea, and that nearest the surface^ 18 feet. To get a foundation above water for the Fort or Castle, an Island has been raised, by throwing rocks into the water, until, by gradual ac- cumulation, it has emerged above the tides. The rock of which this Island is formed, has been brought from great distances, and at a vast expense. After a foundation was obtained for the Castle above high water, the build- ing of the Castle was begun, and car ried up so as to form the first embra sures. It was found that the settling of the artificial mound of stone crack ed the Avails. The building Avas, therefore, discontinued; but immense masses of granite have since been brought and lodged upon the lines of the work, that the weight of the ma- terial, might be employed in consoli- dating its foundations. For some years this marine pyramid sunk be- tween six and eight inches; during the last year but one, although press- ed with the weight of all the material gathered for the superstructure, it set- tled about three inches. The present aspect of the place is rough and savage, and when the surge rushes in among the hollow piles of granite, and the wind whistles among the naked spars, which are planted round the walls for the support of the scaffolding, the music of the surround- ing elements of sea and air, is quite in keeping with the dreary, desolate spot, which, at a distance, looks like a Gibralter, beaten down by cannon- ade, and fallen prostrate in the sea. Nothing could add more to the grandeur, of what has been justly called the American Medi{erranca7i, than the elevation of the Castle at Rip Raps — the rising of this giant of the flood, from the waves, as contem- plated by Commodore WarrentonJ Commodore Elliot, General Armis-! toad, General Bernard, General Swiftj and Major McRee, the commissioners and engineers, in whose design the work originated. The ancients tell us that Venus rose from the sea, but it would seem a much fitter element, to give birth to the god of war; and never Avas there a nobler scene, or nobler temple, than that appropriated for his cradle, by the American peo- ple at the Rip Raps. He Avill appear here, not like the goddess of love, borne in a shell upon a summer's sea, but upon a tOAver of strength amidst the noise of restless surges, — a fit emblem of the American people, Avhose martial strength belongs alike to the land and to the ocean. It is a circumstance Avorth notice, that the material for the structure of the Castle of the Rip Raps is drawn from most of the commercial states of the Union. In walking over the piles you behold the dark grey granite of Maine — thcAvhitish blue and the black speckled granite of Connecticut — the red free stone of the same state — the pied granite of the Susquehannah — the deep blue of the Little Falls of Potomac — and the ash colored of the James river. In this edifice, Avhich is to form a strong hold in a central position — de- fend our great naA-al depot, and to pro- tect our naA-al poAA'er OA^er the ocean; and especially to afford a place of re- fuge to the commerce of the nation, each commercial state may point to a portion of the blended strength Avhich it has contributed to the common structure. The castle, at the Rip Raps, should then be called, as AA-ell from its use, as from its origin, the Casllonf the Federal Union — and Avhen attacked by foreign or domestic assailants, it should run up Avith the ensign of "the Federal Union," the Avatch Avord " it mist be preserve ed:' EASTERN VIRCUNIA— ESSEX. 167 ESSEX. Essex was created by the Legislature in 1692, from a part of (Old) Rappahannock Co. It is bounded E. by the Rappahannock river, which separates it from Richmond, — S. E. by Middlesex, — S. and S. W. ];y King and Q,ueen, — W. and N. W. by Caroline, — and N. by the Rappahannock, ■which divides it froni King George and Westmoreland. Length 28 miles, mean breadth 10, and area 280 sq. miles. Lat. 38° intersects the meridian of Washington, about one-third of the length of the county from its northern extremit}'. Surface in the Avestern part moderately hilly, and soil general- ly sandy and barren except on the rivers and creeks. Population 1820, 9,999 — 1830, 10,531. Essex belongs to the fourth judicial circuit, and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $2452 26— in 1834 on lots, $55 10 —land, $1124 96—3235 slaves, $808 75—1476 horses, $88 66— studs, $118 00—38 coaches $101 75—1 stage $3— 21 caryalls, $24 10—178 gigs, $99 15. Total $2996 18. Expended in education of poor children in 1834, $183 72— in 1833, $300 74. TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &c. BoWKRs, P. O. 62 ms. N. E. bylN. E. of R. and 109 S. E. of W. E. of R. and 121 from W. in the:lat. 37° 58' N.; long 11° 10' E. W. southeastern part of the couuty. C. The situation is low and flat, but DuNNsviLLE, P. O. 56 ms. S. E. from R. and 115 from W. as there is not much marsh land in the neighborhood, it is not very sick- LoRETTO, P. V. 69 ms. N. E. from ly. It was formerly a place of con- R. and 92 from W. situated on the siderable trade, as large vessels can mail route from TappahanHOck{o¥xc-'Asce)L\^ some distance above if, but dericksburg, about 40 miles fromthelike mostof the villages on tide wa- latter and 20 from the former; and a'ter in Virginia it is not increasing, mile from the Rappahannock river, jbecause the business formerly trans- It contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 -acted by them directly with foreign Episcopal church, 2 mercantile stores, Icountries, is now transacted through a tavern, shoemaker, blacksmith, tai-'the medium of the cities. It is about lor, bricklayer, painter, and several 50 miles from the open Chesapeake bourse carpenters. Population 50jbay. It contains 29 dwelling houses, persons, of whom one is a physician. '4 mercantile stores, 2 druggists, one Lloyds, P. O. 62 ms. from R. and'house of worship free for all denomi- 97 from W. i nations, 2 hotels, a female seminary Miller's Tavern, P. O. 40 ms. of the first order, which has been cs- from R. and 119 S. of W. jtablished 15 years, and received an Montague, P. V. 67 ms. S. E. byunusual share of public favor ; in this E. from R. and 126 from W. A:all the usual female accomplishments small village in the southern part of are taught, whilst every attention is the county, on the stage road from'paid to the moral and religious duties Tappahannock, to Urbanna, and 2 of the pupils, by the pious and ac- m's from the Rappahannock river. jcomplished lady who presides over Population 50 ; of whom one is an the establishment. — The mechanics attorney, and one a physician. .are, a jeweller, milliner and mantua TAPPAtlANNOCK, P. V. and maker, 2 tailors, a saddle and harness scat of justice ; situated on the right;makcr, a coach maker, and 2 boot and bank "of the Rappahannock, 50 milcshhoe makers. — There is a Ferry 108 EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. across the Rappahannoclv at this point. 1 in March, May, Angi/sl and Novem Population 1830, 280. Three attor- neys, and five physicians reside here. County courts are hekl on the third Monday in every month : Quarlcrly bcr. Judge Brown holds his Cir- cuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery, on the Alh of May and October, FAIRFAX. Fairfax was created by the Legislature in 1742, from apart of Prince William. It is bounded E. partly by the Potomac river, which separates it from Prince George's Co., of Maryland, and partly by the District of Co- lumbia, — S. by the Potomac and Occoquan river, which separates it from Prince William, — W. by Loiidoun,— and N. by the Potomac, separating it from Montgomery Co. Maryland. Length from S. E. to N. W. 25 ms. mean breadth 180 — area 450 square miles; it extends in lat. from 35° 3G' to 39° 03' N. and in long, from 0° 03' to 0° 33' W. of W. C. The sur- face is hilly and broken ; the soil is in some places good, but much of it is sterile. Population 1820, 11,404; in 1830, 9,204. Fairfax belongs to the 6th judicial circuit and 3d district. Taxes paid in 1833, $3070 00 — in 1834 on lots, $56 72— land, $2144 63—1896 slaves, 474 00—2618 horses, $157 08—6 studs, $35 00—44 coaches, $90 00—31 caryalls, $31 00— 12 gigs, $'7 75. Total, 2996 18. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $435 50— in 1833, $440 70. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &lc. Centreville, p. V. in the wes- tern part of the county, 143 ms. from R., and 27 S. W. of W. This village is situated on the Fauquier, and Alex- andria turnpike road, about 6 ms. from ihe line dividing the counties of Lou- doun, and Prince William. It derives its name from its central position, being about cqui-distant from Leesburg, Middleburg, Warrcnton, Washington, Georgetown and Alexandria. Its situ- ation is elevated and highly pictu- resqiie,a(rording one of the best moun- tain prospects in the state of Virginia. It has always been remarkable for the salubrity of its air, and the health of its inhabitants. It contains 30 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist meeting house, 2 taverns, 3 mercantile stores, 1 com- mon school, and a well organized Sunday school. The mechanics are 2 tanners, 1 saddler, 4 boot and shoe manufacturers, 1 wheelwright, 2 black- smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 2 house car- penters, and 1 tailor. For some time past this village has been declining; but the spirit of industry and enter- prize at present manifested by its in- habitants, justifies the hope of a more favourable state of things. Population 220 ; of whom 2 are attorneys, and 3 phj'sicians. Dronesville, p. O. 140 ms. from R., and 17 from W. FAIRFAX C. I-I. P. O. 140 ms. from R., and 28 ms. S. W. by W. of W. It contains besides the ordinary county buildings, 50 dwelling houses, for the most part frame buildings, 3 mercantile stores, 4 taverns, and 1 common school. The mechanics are boot and shoe makers, saddlers, black- smiths, tailors, &:.c. Population 200 persons; of Avhom 4 are attorneys and 2 physicians. County Courts are held on the Zrd Monday in every montli ; — Quarterly in March, June, Avgvst and NovW, EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. 169 JuDGi: Scott holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the ^i'lth of May and October. MOUNT VERNON, is situated 8 ms. from Alex;indria, and 15 ms. from Vv^ashiag-ton. The house erect- ed on this consecrated spot, is of wood, cut i\\ imitation of free stone. The centre part was buih by Lawrence Washington, brother to the General: the wings were added by CTeneral Wasliington. It is named after Ad- miral Vernon, in whose expedition Lawrence Washington served. The house is 2 stories high and 96 feet in length, witli a portico fronting the ri- ver, extending tlie whole length of the house surmounted by a cupola; the grounds are in the same state as left by General Washington. The house contains on the ground floor, 6 rooms and a spacious passage, 4 of these are of ordinary size: at tlie north east is a large room, very lefty, with a handsomely sculptured ceiling, which contains a very handsome mar- ble mantle-piece sent to General Washington from Ital}'-, — also a very fine organ, on which instrument the late Mrs. Washington was an accom- plished performer; this room is only used for large dinner parties, &c. The room, at the south east end of the house, is used as a family dining room, and contains busts of Monsieur Neckar, Paul Jones, and General Washington, — also a handsome libra- ry, fitted in the wall, with glass cases: the books chiefly coiiected by Gene- ral Washington. The house fronts N. W., the rear looking to the river. In front of the house is a lawn, containing 5 or 6 acres of ground, with a serpentine walk around it, fringed with shrubbery, and planted with poplar. On each side of the lawn stands a garden : the one on the right is the flower garden, and contains two green houses, (one built by Gen. Washington, the other by Judge Washington,) a hot house, and a pinery. It is laid otT in hand- some walks, with box-wood borders, remarkable for their beauty. It con- tains, also, a quantity of fig trees pro- ducing excellent fruit — the other is a kitchen garden, containing only fruit and vegetables. About 200 yards from the house, in a southerly direction, stands a sum- mer house, on the edge of the river bank, which is lofty and sloping, and clothed with wood to the water's edge. The summer house commands a fine prospect of the river, and the Mary- land shore, — also of the White House at a distance of 5 or 6 ms. down the river, where an engagement took place during the late war, with the British vessels which ascended the ri- ver. Proceeding from the summer house about 150 j'ards, in a westerly direction, you come to the vault — a plain excavation in the bank, faced with brick, and surrounded vrith a rough white-washed paling. Several loffy oaks stand around it, and small red cedar trees grow on the top of the tomb. The door and door posts are covered with names of visitors. In the vault are buried General Washixg- TOM and his wife. Judge Washing- ton and his loifc, with many relations of the family. The estate, as owned by Judge Washington, consisted of between 3 and 4000 acres, now divided between the Judge's nephews. John Augustine V/ashington, owns Mount Vernon with the grounds immediately around the house, and 1200 acres of land. The fallow deer abound in the woods. The timber of v/ hich is com- posed chiefly of white and black oak, ! with dogvv'ood, hickory, ash, cedar, 1&.C., the soil is thin, and rather poor, 'cultivated chiefly in Indian corn, rye. barley, &c. Judge Washington cul- tivated the millet to a considerable ex- tent ; — he kept many sheep, and found them profitable. There are 2 fishe- ries on the place, v/here shad and her. ring are caught in large quantities, '.lount Vernon is healthy during all 170 EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAIRFAX. the year except the fall, when agues and bilious fevers prevail. An intel- ligent visiter, connected with the pub- lic press, some years since gave to the world an interesiiug sketch of a visit to Mount Vernon, he remarks, " we were conducted over long gravel walks, bordered with box, which is arrancred and trimmed into the most more rare plants we saw the night blooming cereus, the guava, from which the jelly of that name is made, allocs of a gigantic growth, the West India plantain, the sweet cassia in bloom, the prickley pear, and a thou- sand others. They are all tastefully arranged in large boxes made for the purpose, and nurtured with unceasing fanciful figures, and which at the agelattention, requirmg the constant ser- vices of two assistants besides the chief jjardener. To the north of the of 20 years and upwards, still pos scsses the vigour and freshness of youth. At the extremity of these ex- tensive alleys and pleasure grounds, ornamented With fruit trees and shrub- bery, and clothed in perennial ver- dure, stands two hot houses, and as many green houses, situated in the svmniest part of the garden, and shield- ed from the northern winds by a long range of wooden buildings, for the ac- commodation of servarits. From the air of a frosty December morning, we were suddenly introduced into the tropical climate of these spacious houses, where we long sauntered among groves of the cofiee tree, le- mons lind oranges, all in full bearinf^, regailing our senses with the flowers and odours of spring." ""One of the hot houses is appro- priated entirely to rearing the pine apple which grows in great perfec- tion, long rows of which we saw in a flourishing and luxuriant condition. A stalk produces but a single apple, which grows near the ground, in the centre of a cluster of tall and spear- shaped leaves. Many bushels of le- mons and oranges of every variety are annually grown, which besides furnishing the family with a supply of these fruits at all seasons, are dis- tributed as a delicacy to their friends, or used to administer to the comforts of their neighbours in cases of sick- ness. The coffee plant thrives well, yields abundantly, and in quality is said to be equal to the best Mocha. The branches under which we walk- ed were laden with the fruit, fast ad- range of buildings before mentioned, is an extensive kitchen garden, sur- rounded Avith a hedge of cedar, so regularly trimmed, as to present the appearance of a verdant wall. At every step in these pleasure grounds, the thought occurred that the illus- trious projector is no more. "There was a garden, and in the garden, a new sepulchre," says the Scripture. The lesson on human pursuits and human pleasures, inculcated by this concise and beautiful narration of the Evangelist, never struck me more forcibly than when we left the gate, and walked towards the tomb of Washington. In passing the house, the chamber in which he died Avas pointed out to us ; and imagination aided by these memorials, soon pre- sented the Avhole scene in such dis- tinct and vivid colors that we seemed almost to follow his remains to the grave. The family vault in Avhich the dust of the hero reposes, is at the distance of perhaps 30 rods from the house immediately upon the bank of the riA-er. A more romantic and pic- turesque site for a tomb can scarcely be imagined. BetAvecn it and the Potomac, is a curtain of forest trees covering the .steep declivity to the Avater's edge, breaking the glare of the prospect, and yet afibrdingglimpes of the river, Avhen the foliage is the thickest. The tomb is surrounded by several large natiA^e oaks, Avhich are venerable by their years, and which annually strew the sepulchre vancing to maturity. Among the lAvith autumnal leaves, furnishing the EASTEPvN VIRGINIA— FAUQUIER. 171 most appropriate draptMy for such a place, and giving a still deeper im- pression to the memento mori. Inter- spersed among the oaks, and over hanging the tomh, is a copse of red cedar; bnt whether native or trans- planted, I could not ascertain, its ever-green bough.s presents a fine contrast to the hoary and leafless branches of the oak ; and while the de- ciduous foliage of the latter indicates the decay of the body, the eternal ver- dure of the former furnishes a beau- tiful emblem of the immortal spirit. 7^he sacred and symbolic cassia was familiar to Vfashington, and perhaps led to the selection of a spot where the ever green flourished." Pleasant Valley, P. V. 138 ms. from R., and 30 ms. VV. of W., situ- ated on Little river turnpike road, 10 ms. above Fairfax C. H. It contains 10 dwelling houses, a tavern, store, and blacksmith shop. Population 20. Prospkct Hill, P. O. 132 ms, from R., and-9 W. of W. FAUQ,UIKR. Fauqx'Ier. was created by the legislature in 17;")9, from a part of Prince William. It is bounded N. by Loudoun, N. E. and E. by Prince William, E. and.S. E. by Stafford, S. and S. W. by the Rappahannock, which sepa- rates it from Culpeper, and W. N. W. by the Blue Ridge, which separates it from Frederick: — greatest length 4.'3 ms. mean breadth 16, and area 720 sq. ms.— It extends in lat. from 38° 21' to 39° 02,' and in long, from 0° 32,' to 1 "^ 5' W. of W. C". This county possesses very valuable beds of mag- nesia, soap stone, and several gold mines, worked vipon an extensive scale. The northern part of the county slopes north, and sends it waters to Goose creek; but from the neighbourhood of Cobler mountain, near Salem, a ridge runs to the S. E. extremity of the county, which divides its Avaters: those on the N. E. side flowing N. E. into the Occoquan, and those on the S. W. fijwing in a S. E. direction until they reach the Rappahannock. The sur- face is agreeably diversified, and the soil when judiciously cultivated, sus- ceptible of high improvement, and very productive. Population 1820, 23,103 — 1830, 26,036. Fauquier belongs to the Qth judicial circuit, and 3aZ disificl. Taxes paid in 1833, $7,282 69— in 1834, on lots, $293 42— land, $1,.'3.58 74— j,903 slaves, $1,475 75—7132 horses, $427 92—28 studs, $311 00—76 coaches, $191 50—52 carryalls, $62 26—35 gigs, 1^23 75. Total $7,344 28. No report of school commissioners. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Arnold's Old Place, P. O. 129 ms. from R., and 73 from W. Barnett.s' Mills, P. O. 93 ms. from R., and 68 from W., situated on the north side of the Rappahannock river, about 6 ms. above its junction with the Rapid Ann. It contains 12 dwelling houses, a Presbyterian house of worship, a mercantile store, an ex- tensive flour manufacturing mill, 40 fe?t squire, and 5 stories high, which makes annually from 3 to 4000 bar- rels of flour, a grist, and a saw mill which saws from 2 to 300,000 feet of plank annually. The mechanical pursuits are various, such as millers, mill-wrights, coopers, boot and shoe makers, blacksmiths, &ic. Popula- tion 30. The Rappahannock is at this place 100 yards wide, and is now being made navigable for boats to Freda- 172 EASTERN VIRGINIA—FAUQUIER. ricksbursr.'by the RappaJiannock Com- fany. The navigation is to extend 50 ms. above Barnett's mills, and will greatly enhance the value of watt-r power at this and other points on the river. The water power at this place is created by a dam 5 feet high, situated half a mile above the mills, and conveyed to them by a canal cut in some places through the solid rock, to the depth of 25 or 30 feet, the fall gained by the dam and canal is 16 feet. Tijere has recently been erected at this place a stavipijig mill, for the purpose of stamping gold ores, ob- tained from a mine about half a mile distant, worked by a company. The ore of this mine is thought by expe- rienced judges, to contain gold enough to afford a good profit upon the in- vestment necessary to keep the mine in operation,— It is even said that ore yielding /./i!// cents a bushel, may be worked profitably — and picked ore from this mine has yielded $8 per bushel hy actual assay. We learn also by a recent com.munication, that the miners in searching for gold have recently discovered a beautiful soap- stone which has already becom.e an article of commerce, and is likely to be very profitable, when the improve- ments on the river shall haA-e been completed sufficiently for its trans- portation. Blackwell's Mill, 116 ms. N. N. W. of R., and 60 ms. S. W. by W. of W., situated 6 ms. W. of War- renton, 40 N. of Fredericksburg, and 50 ms. S. W. of Alexandria, on the ea.st side of Carter's Run, about 2 ms. above its junction with the Rappa- hannock, on the main road leading from Warrenton to Chester's Gap; at the end of the progressing improA^e- ment of navigation, which, when com- plete will make the mill, the main de- posit of all the grain raised west of if, as far as the Blue Ridge, a distance of 18 ms, of fine wheat growing country. This mill stands unrivalled in its sec- tion of country, for the immense amount of wheat which it purchases. It manufactures 30,000 bushels an- nually. There is also a good saw mill, with an abundance of pine timber at hand, 1 general store, and 10 dwel- ling houses. The country around is densely populated ; — the soil suscep- tible of high improvement, especially by the use of clover and plaister. Ponulation at the mill 30. boDDsviLLE, p. O. 105 ms. from R. and 68 from W. Edgefield, P. O. 105 ms. from R. and 73 from W. Elk Marsh, P. O. 101 ms. from R. and 57 from W. — situated in the southern part of the county, 22 ms. N. W. of Fredericksburg. Elk Run Church, P. O. 90 ms. from R. and G8 from W. — situated in the S. E. part of the county, 20 ms. N. N. W. of Fredericksburg. Farrowsville, p. V. in N. W. part of the county, 130 ms. from R. and 64 W. of W. — situated on the head waters of Goose creek, 4 ms. be- low Manassa's Gap. — It contains a tavern, 2 mercantile stores, and a house of public worship free for all denomi- nations. Population 20. Fayetteville, p. O. situated 50 ms. S. W. of W., in the southern part of the county. Foxville, p. V. 108 ms. from R. and 64 W. of W. — situated on the banks of the Rappahannock, 30 ms. from Fredericksburg. It contains 2 extensive manufacturing mills, 2 wool carding machines, 1 mercantile store, and several blacksmiths, and coopers. Large quantities of good slate are found in the neighborhood; in which there is also a mineral spring — said to be ivhiie sulphur — which is now a place of considerable resort. — The surrounding country is fertile and thickly settled with intelligent and in- dependent farmers. Germantown, p. O. 95 ms. from R. and 61 from W. — about the centre of the county. EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUaUlER. 178 GuioGsBv's Store, 127 ms. from R. and Gl from AV. Lee's Sulphur Spring, on the Rappahannock, near Thompson's Falls, on the road from Warrenton to Joffersonton, in Culpeper. This spring has been only known for a few years, but has become exceeding- ly popular, and attracts such a con- course in summer, as to have induced their enterprising proprietor (John Hancock Leo) to go to very great ex- pense in erecting large, pleasant, and commodious buildings; and laying out the gro\inds with great beauty, taste, and variety of ornamental trees, &c. McRaeville, p. O. 127 ms. from R. and 53 from W. MoRRisviLLE, p. Y. in the south- ern part of the county. — 95 ms. from R. and 63 from W. — situated on the stage road which leads from Falmouth to Washington, the county seat of Rappahannock county, 19 ms. from the former, 18 from War rreiitoii, mid 20 from Fredericksburg. It contains a general store, tavern, hatter, tailor, wheelwright, and blacksmith. — The Baptists hold a monthly meeting at this place. Population, 20 Avhites, and 18 blacks. New Baltimore, P. V. 122 ms. from R. and 45 S. of W. from W.— situated in the eastern part of the county, on the post road leading from Warrenton to Alexandria, 5 miles from the former. It contains 1 7 dwel- ling houses, 1 flourishing Academy, incorporated 5 years since by the Le- gislature, and now in high estimation, 2 mercantile stores, a lanyard, wheel- w-right, blacksmith, boot and shoe factory, and 2 wheat flin factories on an improved plan — A Colonization Society, auxiliary to the State Society has recently been fumed. — In the vicinity there is a Baptist house of worship, called Broad Run meeting house. Population 115 persons; of whom 2 are physicians. Oak Hill, P. O. 122 ms. from R. and 58 S. W. by AV. of W. Orleans, P. O. distances omitted on the post office list. Paris, P. V. 131 ms. from R. and 58 S. W. by W. of W.— situated in the northern part of the county, at the foot of Ashby's Gap, in the Blue Ridge, and immediately at the junc- tion of the roads leading from Alex- andria and Fredericksburg to Win- chester. — It contains 25 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 house of public worship, free for all deno- minations, 1 common school, 2 sad- dlers, 1 cabinet maker, 1 tailor, 1 tur- ner, 2 smith shops, 1 wheat fan ma- ker, 2 wagon makers, 1 chair maker, and 3 boot and shoe factories. — This village enjoys a pure atmosphere, good water, and good health at all seasons; a disease of a local charac- ter has never been known to invade it. — The people are intelligent and industrious ; famed for their moral de- portment and hospitality. — The prac- tice of gaming and horse racing, once the favorite amusements of the place and its vicinity, have now entirely gone out of vogue. The valley in v.'hich Paris is located extends 5 or 6 miles southward of the village. The land of the surrounding country is fertile, producing all the principle sta- ples of the state, and worth at an ave- rage price about twenty dollars an acre, falling however in A'alue as it recedes from the mountain. Popula- tion 200 persons; one of whom is a physician. Rectortown, p. V. 129 ms. from R. and 53 S. W. by W. of W^— situ- ated a mile to the S. E. of Goose creek, in a very healthy and fertile neighborhood. It contains 24 dwel- ling houses, 1 Methodist house of worship, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 1 saddler, I wagon maker, 3 black- smiths, 1 cabinet maker, 1 boot and shoe maker, 1 tailor, 3 extensive mer- chant mills, 1 saw mill, and 1 carding machine. Population 100; one phy- sician. SoMERviLLE, P. V. 85 ms. from R. 174 EASTERN VIRGINIA— FAUUUIER. and 73 W. of W. — situated near the S. E. border of the county, on the main stage road leading from Fal- mouth to Winchester, 19 ms. from the former, 20 ms. S. E. of Warren- t07i, 19 from Brcntsville, 7 N. W. of Spottedville, and 5 S. E. of Elk Run; and at the intersection of the roads leading to those pbces. In the vi- cinity of the post office, is one large and flourishing male seminary, in which is taught all the usual branches of education taught in our schools, and averaging generally from GO to 80 pupils; a tavern, mercantile store, blacksmith's shop, rtmning several forges, and a cotton gin. The coun- try around is moderately fertile and thickly settled. Salem, P. V. in the northern part of the county, 1 17 ms. from R. and 63 W. of W. This village is laid out with one main street running E. and W. — nearly half a mile in length; and two cross streets, as yet unim- proved. — It is situated on the stage road leading from Warrenton to Win- chester, 13 miles from the former, and 30 from the latter place, on a hand- some ridge, which divides the w^aters which flow through Goose creek into the Potomac, from those which flow into the Rappahannock. It contains 33 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 Academy, used as a place of public worship by all denominations, until a large and handsome brick meeting house, which is now being erected, shall be completed, 1 common school, 1 well organized Sunday school, and 3 taverns. — The mecha- nics are, saddlers, tailors, boot and shoe makers, coach makers, v.'agon makers, blacksmiths, bricklayers, stone masons, plasterers and fancy- wall painters, house-joiners, &c. The principal article of trade is lumber, great quantities of which are brought from the country for some distance round. There is a tri-weekly stage running from Fredericksburg to Win Chester, and a cross mail 3 times a week from Buckland to this place. Population 250 persons: of whom one is a phj-sician. Walnut Branch, P. 0.111 ms. from R. and 55 S. W. of W. WARRENTON, P. V. and ^cat of justice, 107 ms. from R. and 51 S. W. bv W. of W., in lat. 38° 4 1' N. «fc long."'0° 46' W. of W. C— It is a beau-_ tiful village situated near the centre of the county; and contains (besides the ordinary county buildings which are spacious and handsome, and erected at an expense estima-ted at $30,000,) 200 neat and closely built dwelling houses, 3 houses of public worship, MethodLst, Presbyterian, and Episco- palian, 4 primary schools, 3 taverns, 4 private boarding houses, 2 printing offices, each issuing a weekly paper, 4 wheelwrights, 1 coach maker, 3 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2 cabinet makers, 5 hotjse carpenters, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 tai- lors, 2 clock and watch makers, 3 ba- kers, 1 tanner and currier, 3 brewe- ries, 1 tin plate worker, 2 milliners, 1 mantuamaker, 1 house and sign paint- er, and 2 plough manufactories. This village has a regular market, which is held in a neat little building, the upper part of which is used as a Town Hall. Population 1300; of whom 3 are resident ministers, 9 attorney's, and 8 physicians. The Winchester, Fredericksburg, Alexandria, &- Char- lottesville, post roads intersect each other at right angles in Warrenton, which makes it quite a thorough-fare. Many travellers going south prefer this route as it gives them an oppor- tunity of viewing the rich counties at the foot of the Blue Ridge, Fauquier, Culpcper, Orange, Albi marie, &c. and of visiting the Univirsily of Vir- gijiia. There is an excellent McAd- amiscd turnpike froni Warrenton to Alexandria. County Courts arc h dd on the 4 /A Monday in every month; — Quarterly in March, May, .4z/^'-«.?/, and Norem ber. EASTERN VIRGIxMA— FLUVANNA. 175 Judge Scott holds his Circuit eantile stores, a cooper's shop, black- Superior Court of Law and Chancery smith shop, and a boot and shoe fac- on tlie 1st of April and September, tory: — on the east or Fauquier side Weavkr's Mill, P. O. 114 miles there are 3 dwcUino- houses, 1 grist from R. and 59 S. W. by W. of W. and 1 saw mill, l^opulaliou of the WiiKATLEY, p. V. 105 ms. Irom whole place 90. 'Vho Rappahannock R. and 01 S. W. bj^ W. of W. — situ-iriver is at this place 100 yards wide, aied '2^^ miles above Fredericksburg, and has in the distance of a mile, a upon the Rappahannock, which di-|fall of 44 feet, commencing above the vides the town and throws a part into'village and terminating below. This Culpeper. — On the Culpeper sideithe Rajrpahannork Company \\\\\ there are S dwelling houses, 1 extensiveievade by a canal which they have Hour manufacturing mill, capable oficoinmenced on the Fauquier side. — grinding 50,000 bushels of wheat inlVast quantities of building stone of the ordinary grinding season, 1 cotton'excellent quality, may be found on gin, and wool-carding machine, 2mer-lboth sides of the river. FL.UVAIVNA. Flxtvanxa was created by the Legislature in 1777', from a part of AI» bemarlo county. — It is bounded N. by Louisa, W. by Albemarle, S. by James river, which separates it from Buckingham, and E. partl}^ by Gooch- land, and partly by a bend of James river, separating it from Cumberland. It is in shape a parallelogram, approaching to a square, its border in com- mon with Albemarle is 26 miles, its mean breadth 16, — area 416 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37= 40' to 37=^ 58' N. and in long, from 1^ 12' to 1^ 43' W. of W. C. The Riuatifia, river enters it from Albemarle, and flowing S. E. divides the county diagonally, leaving nearly half on the north side, and empties into James river at Columbia. The surface is for the most part broken, but between the Rivanna and James there is a large tract of barren, level land which runs for some distance into Albemarle. The soil on the rivers is good — that on the James equal perhaps to any of the cele- brated low grounds on that river. The lower part of the county, — included in a line drawn from the mouth of little Bremo creek to the N. E. angle of the county — has a dark greyish soil resembling disintegrated granite which produces the best chewing' tobacco in the state. An eminent tobacco manufacturer of Richmond has ofiered the inhabitants of this district to take all of their tobacco, (lugs included,) at i^lO a hundred, and pay all costs and charges for its delivery in Richmond. The vein of gold which runs through Louisa, Goochland and Fluvarma into Buckingham, is worked near Palmyra, the county seat of Fluvanna. Population 1820, 6,704— in 1830, 8,221.— This county"^ belongs to the lltli judicial circuit and 6th district. Taxes paid in 1832-3, $2092 18 — in "1833-4, on lots, S»37 31— land, §1316 83—2093 slaves, $523 25—1623 horses, )$97 56—7 studs, $84 00—10 coaches, $26 25— 20 carryalls, $24 05—30 gigs, $23 35. Total, $2132 60. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $166 83— in 1833, $359 73. 176 EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Columbia, P. V. 52 ms. N. W. byl W. of R. and 122 from W. — situated on the left bank of the Rivanna, at its junction with the James. — It contains 20 dwelling houses, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 house of public worship, free for all denominations, 1 common school, 2 tailors, 3 boot and shoe factories, 2 cabinet makers, 1 wheelwright, 1 house carpenter, and 1 smith's shop. Population 85 whites, one of whom is a physician, 54 free colored persons, and 33 slaves. To- tal, 177. Laurel Spring, P. O. 61 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and from W. Lindsey's Cross Roads, P. O. 80 ms. W. of R. and 123 from W. PALMYRA, P. V. and seat oj justice, 59 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 136 S. W. of W., in lat. 37° 47' N. and long. 1° 29' W. of W. C— situated on the Rivanna river, 14 ms. from its junction with the James. Besides the county buildings which are of brick, and have been recently erected, it contains 14 dwelling hous- es, 1 methodist house of worship, 1 mercantile store, 1 tavern, 1 merchant, grist and saw mill, 1 Avoollen factory, 2 saddlers, 2 tailors, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 tanyard, 1 cabinet maker, and several carpenters and coopers. A handsome and permanent bridge is erected across the Rivanna, This village is thriving. Co7inty Courts are held on the Atk Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August, and No- vember. Judge Field holds hii Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the \st of April and Septem- ber. Union Mills, 6S ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 122 from W., situated on the left bank of the Rivanna, on the post road, 25 miles from Colum- bia, and 16 from Charlottesville, in the midst of beautiful mountain and river scenery. At this place there are located, a merchant mill, grist and saw mill, and a cotton factor}^ called the Virginia Union Factory. — This factory owned by Messrs. Tim- herlake and Magruder,\sa large and commodious brick building ; it runs 15U0 spindles, besides the necessary machinery for carding, &:.c. — it con- tains 12 poAVcr looms, in which seve- ral hundred yards of substantial cloth are made per day. The cotton yarn of this establisluricnt is in high repute throughout the state. More than 100 operatives are employed by the enter- prising proprietors in the different de- partments of their establishment. — The place contains comfortable houses for the accommodation of 1 8 or 20 families, a tanyard, and a methodist house of worship; besides the elegant dwellings of the proprietors. Wilmington, P. V. 55 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 132 from W., situated on Rivanna river, 14 miles above its mouth. There arc located here 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, and a blacksmith shop. Winn's Tavern, P. O. 68 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 142 from AV. in the western part of the count3^ FRANKI.1N. Franklin was created by the Legislature in 1784, from parts of Bed- ford and Henry counties. It lies S. W. of Staunton river, and is bounded by the county of Botetourt on the N., Bedford on the N. E. and E., Pitt- sylvania on the S. E., Henry on the S., Patrick on the S. W., by the Blue EASTERN VIRGINIA— FRANKLIN. 177 Ridge, separating it from Floy.l on the W. and a small part of Montg-omery and part of Botetourt on the. N. W. Length 30 miles, mean breadih 25, and area 750 s|uare miles. It contains in lat. from 36-^ 46' to 37® 13' N. and in long, from 2^ 41' to 3^ 18' W. of W. C Black IVtiter river and Pig river rise in the Blue Ridge on the west, and run nearly pirallel with each other through the county to the east. Bla':I< Water emptying itself into the Staunton at the junction of the Bed- ford, Pittsylvania and Franklin lines; and Pig river emptying itself in the same stream in the county of Pittsylvania. — Neither river is navigable. The streams called creeks are all small, though of sufficient size for the usual purposes of machinery. The principal of these are S7ioio c re e A;, ris- ing in the mountain and running east into Pig river — Maggotty, rising in the Blue Ridge, running to the east into Blaclc Water — Ckesnut creek, run- ning to the east into Pig river — GiWs creek, rising in the Blue Ridge and running to the east into Black Water — Ruimett Bag, rising in the Blue Ridge and running to the S. E. into Smith's river, in the county of Patrick, and Nicholas creek, running south into Smith's river. There are some small mountains — Ckesnut mountain south of the court house about twelve miles, and the Grassi/ Hill, on the north, about a mile from the court house, are the largest. The others are small and deserve no particular notice. About half a mile east of this place an immense rock rises very abruptly, particularly on the north, at least two hundred feet above its base, from which the county tovvn takes its name — it is known as the Bald Knob, from its barren surface of rock — whose area is about eighty feet in length, by a mean breadth of about fifteen. Tha Sti'inton or Roanoke river, from the point where it passes through the Blue Ridg3, form^ a natural boundary of the county, separating it from Bedford. — The Blue Ridge from the same point forms another natural boundary on the north, separating Franklin from Botetourt, until it loses itself in the Alleghany at the Bent mountain, which then forms the boun- dary separating Franklin from Montgomery and Floyd, until it reaches the Patrick line. The staples are principally tobacco, wheat, Indian corn and iron. The Washington Iron Works, on Pig river, within half a mile of Rocky Mount, yield annually about 150 tons of iron of a very superior quality. Iron ore is found in varioui parts of the county. The slope of the county is E. S. E. The elevation of the surface is about equal to that of the adjoining county of Bedford, or about 650 feet above the tide of the ocean. The general face of the country is rolling — the soil of a medium quality, with a clay foundation, and generally well adapted to farming. Population 1820, 12,017— in 1830, 14,91 1.— Frank- lin belongs to the tenth judicial circuit, and fifth district. Taxes paid in 1832-3 82 182 19— in 1833-4. on lots. 819 35— land, $1131 12—2612 slaves, $553 03—3459 horses, S207 54— 14 studs, $146 GO— 8 coaches. $21 00—9 carryalls, $3 00—12 gigs, $7 35. Total, $2194 36. Ex- pended in educating poor children in ^832. $518 50— in 1833, $1188 55. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, (fcc. Boon's Mills, P. O. 184 ms. S.I Calloway's Mill, P.O. 193 ms. W. of R. and 252 S. W. by W. of S. W. by W. of R. and 271 from W. W. ^ 23 178 EASTERN VIRGINIA— GLOUCESTER. Cooper's P. O. 172 ms. S. W. by| W. of R. and 250 from W. Dickenson, P. O. 201 ms. S. W. of R. and 279 from W. Haleford, p. O. 169 ms. from R. and 242 from W. Helm's, P. O. 203 ms. from R. and 281 S. W. of W. Hunter's Hall, P. O. I9S ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 274 from W. Rocky Mount, P. V. and scat of justice 185 ms. from R. and 2G3 S. W. of W.— situated on a branch of Pig river, a tributary of Roanoke, in lat. 36° 57' N. and long. 2° 50' W. of W. C. It contains besides the usual county buildings, about 30 dwelling houses, 3 general stores, and 2 taverns. — The mechanics are 2 tai- lors, a saddler, cabinet maker, 2 black- smiths, a boot and shoe manufacturer, a printing office, Avhich issues a week- ly paper, and a tanyard. — In the vi- cinity there is an iron furnace and forge, Avhich give employment to 100 operatives, and manufacture about 1 60 tons of bar iron and castings annually. Population (exclusive of the persons employed in the iron manufactory) 175 persons; of whom 3 are attor- neys, and 1 a physician. County Courts are held on the \st Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Saunders holds his Cir- cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- cery on the 9tk of Ma-y and October. Shady Grove, P. 6. 217 ms. from R. and 305 S. W. of W. Taylor's Store, P. O. 173 ms, S. W. by W. of R. and 251 from W, situated 12 ms. E. of Rocky Mount. Union Hall, P. V. 201 ms. from R. and 276 S. W. of W. — situated near the Blue Ridge mountain, between Pig and Black Water rivers, on the main stage road lending from Henry C. H. to Lynchburg, at the intersec- 'tion of the road from Pittsylvania C- H. to Rorky Mount. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house of worship, at which n\\ English school is kept, and one well organised tem- perance society. The mechanics are a tanner, tailor, blacksmith, and to- bacco manufacturer. In the vicinity on Pig rix-er is an extensive manufac- turing flour mill, and a wool and cot- ton manufactory. Population 25 per- sons; of Vv'hom one is a physician. Woodpecker's Level, P. O. 208 ms. from R. and 286 S. W. of W.— situated in the western part of the county, 23 ms. east of Rocky Mount, GLOUCESTER, Gloucester was created by the Legislature in 1652, from a part of York comity. If is bounded N. by the Piankatank river, which separates it from Middlesex, — E. by Mathews and an arm of the Chesapeake formed by the mouth of York river, and Mob Jack bay, — S. by York river, which separates it from York county, — S. W. by the same river, separating it from James City county and New Kent, and N. W. by King and Q.ueen county. Length 28 miles, mean width 10, and area 280 square miles. It extends in lat. from 37° 15' to 37° 35', and in long, from 0° 14' (o 0° 42' E. of W, C. The principal products of this county are corn, cotton, and Avheat, — much barley was formerly raised, but from some unknown cause the lands have ceased to be adapted to its cultivation. Popiilation 1820, 9,678 — in 1830, white males, 217 — females, 2197— total, 4314 — slaves, males, 2885 — females, 2806 — total, 5691 — free coloi'cd persons, males, 275 — females, 328 — total, 603. Number of families, 911; average number in each family EASTERN VIRGINIA— C400CnT.AND. 179 1 1; miinhor of persons to llic squaro iniK% 35. Gloucoster belono^s to the fourth jiuiicial circuit, and sccoikI tlistrict. Taxes paid in 1832-3, 82180 91— ill 1833-4, OH lots, $389 00— laml, i?790 GG— 3042 slaves, $7G0 50 — 122G horses, 873 20 — 4 sluds, $7G 00— G4 coaches, $139 GO — 9 car- ryalls, §10 00 — 214 giqs, $113 G5 — total, $2172 50. Expended iu edu- cating poor children in 1832, $125 42 — in 1833, $334 73. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Glf.n-n's p. O. 89 ms. E. of R. and 148 from W. GLOUCESTER C. H. P. V. 82 ms. E. of R. and IGG from W. — situ- ated near the centre of the countj^ 2 miles from the head of Ware river, and 14 from Gloucester ferry. It cont:iins a court house, clerk's office, a criminal and a debtors jail, 8 dwel- ling houses, 1 incorporated Academy for males, called ' Neicington,' and one female Academy, 4 mercantile stores, and 1 tavern. The mechanics are a wheelwright, 2 carriage makers, 3 blacksmiths, a hoot and shoe facto- ry, and 2 tailors. There are eii'-Iil houses of public worship, within the circumference of 14 miles from the court house, of which 2 are Episco- palian, 2 Baptist, and 4 Methodist. Population 120. The mail between Washington City and York Town passes this office four limes a week, and between Rich- mond and Mathews twice a week. Count 1/ Courts are held on i\\e first Monday in every month ; — Quarterly ill March, Mcuj, August and Novem- ber. Judge Brown holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the 24 /A of Mai/ and October, GOOCHLAND. GoociiL.vND was created by the Legislature in 1727, from a part of Hen- rico. It is bounded, on the W. by Fluvanna, N. by Hanover and Louisa, E. by Henrico, and S. by James river, which separates it from Powhatan and Cumberland. It is 30 miles in length by about 10 in mean breadth, containing 300 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37^ 31' to 37° 51' N. and in long, from ^0 47' to i° 20' W. of W. C. The general surface of the county is undulating, in some places rather broken. In diverging from the river it becomes more level and uniform, particularly in the upper part of the county, There is great diversity of soil, though much that is now exhausted and abandoned for all purposes of cultivation, was naturally of good and improvable quality. By far the finest portion of the county is that in the vicinity of James river. Perhaps there is no other tract of similar extent in eastern Virginia, that combines equal nitural advantages with so much fertility of soil and beauty of scenery. The width of the low grounds which form the ravine of the river, and the bold features of the adjacent highland.s, present a pleasing and striking con- trast. Added to this, an improved system of husbandry has been generally adopted throughout this section within a few years, the good effects of which are decidedly manifest. But though the lands in the vicinity of the river are undoubtedly much finer than in other parts of the county, yet they are in mmy places' of excellent quality, and easily susceptible of improvement, 'i'lie ch'ief products are corn, wheat, tobacco and oats. Wheat and tobacco 180 EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. are the staple commodities for market, though the extent to which the latter is cultivated has been much circumscribed of late years. Goochland is well watered, particularly in the lower part by good streams, which mostly empty into James river. On many of these, there is water power to a considerable extent, but none of it is employed for domestic manu- factures. Saw and grist mills are numerous. Roads and Canals. — The most important local improvement in the county is the Tuckahoe canal, which was excavated about the year 1828. It was projected for the purpose of conveying the coal on Tuckahoe creek to Richmond, and is exclusively within the county. It communicates with the James river canal by means of a lock. Being constructed upon eco- nomical but efficient principles, the stock has proved to be exceedingly valu- able. The only good road in the county, and one of the best between the Blue Ridge and Tide Water, is the main stage road leading by the court house, from Richmond to Charlottesville. A laudable pride is feh, to keep this highway in good repair. There are sections of other roads, preserved in good order; but generally speaking, the road laws are executed with very little attention to public convenience. The Three Chopped road is almost as much famed for its often impassable condition as the well known bog of the Choppawamsic. Mineiah. — The mineral wealth of Goochland is considerable. Bitumi- nous coal is found in great abundance in the lower or eastern part of the county, both on Tuckahoe creek and on James river. In the upper portion of the county, gold has been discovered in many places, from which some profit has been realised. Churches. — There are from 15 to 20 houses of public worship in the county, the greater part of \\ hich belong to the Baptists, M'ho constitute the prevailing sect. The other religious societies are the Methodists, Presb)'- terians, Episcopalians and Friends. Streams. — Tuckahoe creek, a stream of some size, forms in part the lower boundary of the county. In its vicinity, a few miles from James river, there is an extensive body of coal, of excellent qualitJ^ To facilitate the transportation of this mineral to market, the Tuckahoe canal Avas opened in 1828, to communicate with the James river improvement. The stock of this canal is probably the most valuable canal stock in Virginia, the divi- dend being 33 per cent, per annum. On Tuckahoe creek and its branches there are many grist and saw mills, the latter of which furnish a great quantity of lumber for the Richmond market. The stream is about 15 or 20 miles in length, pursuing generally a S. E. course to its junction with James river. The country which it waters is of medium quality — some of it very good. Dover creek, about ten miles long, emptying into James river at Dover mills. Its general course is southerly. The soil on either side, after leav- ing the river for a mile or two, is of inferior quality, and not a little of it an entire waste. Genito creek empties into James river at Jude's ferry. At about two miles from the river it is divided into the eastern and western branches, on the former of which there is a saw mill, and on the latter two grist mills. The land along this stream is mostly of excellent quality. General course south, and about eight miles in length. Beaverdam creek, one of the principal streams in the county, empties in- to James river about five miles below the court house, after pursuing a very EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCIII. AND. 181 devious course. The principal branches of this stream, are the eastern and western forks, and Horsepen creek. It drains a considerable portion of country, much of which is distinguished for its fertility, and the durable qualities of the soil. The flats along the creek are generally wide, and yield great crops of Indian corn. The higland is remarkably well adapted to the growth of wheat. Though the land is rolling throughout the whole length of Bi^averdam creek, there is not much water power, and of course very few mills on the stream. On the Horsepen, there is an excellent grist mill, and a saw mill. Lilllc. creek, a small stream entering into James river three miles above the court house. It is five or six miles long; general course to the south. Its passage is through a portion of beautiful country. Lickiughole creek is a considerable stream M'hich discharges itself into James river four miles above the court house. It was formerly navigable for batteaux for two or three miles to a manufacturing mill, but its bed has now become so obstructed by hammocks, as to impede their progress, except tor a short distance. It is divided into two branches, the larger and smaller, both of which pass through a country of tolerable fertility. There are but few mills on this stream. Length about 15 miles, pursuing a somewhat southeasterly direction to its entrance into the river. Byrd creek, the largest stream in the county, empties into James river about 7 miles below Columbia. It is divided into two branches, Big and Little Byrd, which unite near the mouth. The Big Byrd rises in Fluvanna, and flows a S. E. course, running through a hilly country, especially near its termination. The lands on this stream as well as the Little Byrd are gene- rally thin, but abound in fine timber. There are several grist and saw mills. It is on the smaller branches of the Byrd that gold has been found. Islands. — Sabot island contains 500 acres, and is situated opposite to Dover mills. The soil is in a high degree fertile. Pleasant' s islands, a short distance above Judes ferry, and three miles be- low Maiden's Adventure falls. The land is extremely fertile, and some of the original growth was Horse Chesnut, (^Esculus flava,) a very uncom- mon forest tree in Eastern Virginia. The two islands contain nearly 200 acres. Bjllings islani, in Rock Castle neck, about ten miles above the court house, contains 500 acres, and possesses a soil of great fertility. Elk island, a few miles above Cartersville, contains 1000 acres, and is much celebrated for the strength and fdrtility of its soil ; half of this island sold a few years since for the enormous price of S^75,000. Ferries. — Mani.can town ferry, a few miles above Powell's. Ju les ferry, at the mouth of Gonito creek. M'tch'i'i.v-'' ferry, one mile below the court house. Population in 1820, 10,037 — in 1S30, 10,360. Goochland belongs to the 7th judicial circuit, and 4th district. Tax paid in 1832-3, S3358 09 — in 1833-4, o\ land, $2223 3G— 315G slaves, $789 00—2156 horses, $129 33 — 5 studs, '>if,7C> 00—44 coaches, $113 50—30 carryalls, $35 80—63 gig>, $^5 8 J — 'Total, $3407 87. Expended in educating poor children in 1833, $186 42. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Beaverdam, p. O. 24 ms. W. oflton, on the mail route leading to R. and 133 S. S. W. from Washing- Charlottesville, and one mile north of 182 EASTERN VIRGINIA— GOOCHLAND. James river. There are here a tavern, a store, and a blacksmith's shop. It is situated in a populous neighborhood, not far from Beaverdain creek, whence its name. It is surrounded mostly by a beautiful, undulating country, well adapted to the production of Indian corn, wheat, and clover. Tobacco was formerly one of the staples, but of late years its culture has been near- ly discontinued. Dover Mills, P. O. on Dover creek, near the Charlottesville road, 21 miles west from Richmond, 135 from W. and 10 miles below the C. H. A store is kept here, and recent- ly a tavern has been built. The mill possesses advantages greater perhaps than any other in the county. Be ing situated at the bank of the James river canal, it has every command of water power, and facility for transpor tation to market. A large quantity of wheat is yearly manufactured into flour, and it is in many respects a place of much activitj' in business. It is in the midst of one of the finest wheat growing portions of the coun- ty, and also affords a market for some of the produce of the contiguous parts of Louisa and Hanover. Fife's P. O. 39 ms. W. of R. and 116 S. S. W. of W.— situated in the western part of the countv, on the Charlottesville road, near its intersec- tion with the mail route from Frede- ricksburg to Cartersville on James river, and Salisbury, N. C. A store is kept here. The soil of the sur- rounding country is of variable quali- ty; some of it well adapted to the growth of tobacco. GOOCHLAND C. H. 127 miles from W. and 28 above R. on the Charlottesville or river road, and one mile north of James river. The place has a village-like appearance, and contains a tavern, store, tailor's shop, last Monday in every month: Quarfcr/i/ in February, May, Aui^usl and Noccmlier. Terms of the (ieiie- ral Court nrc held on the \st Monday in July nnd December. Circuit Court of United States, at Richmond, on the 22nd ojMay and November. The Federal District Court on the 15//t of May, and November. B ELLON A, P. O. 2 ms. N. of Bel- lona Arsenal, Chesterfield Co. and 10 ms. of R., situated on the main road, leading from Richmond to Charlottesville. Shout Pump, P. O., situated 12 ms. from R., and 134 from W, HENRY. Henry was created by the Legislature in 177G, from a part of Pittsyl- vania county. It is bounded N. by Franklin, — E. by Pittsylvania, — S. by Rockingham Co. North Carolina, — and W. by Patrick. It is nearly in the form of a rhomb; and its mean length 20^ miles, mean breadth 17^- and area 357 square miles. It extends in lat. from 3(3° 30' to 30° 50' N. and ill long, from 2° 41' to 3° 08' W. of W. C. Its extreme southwestern angle is crossed by the two branches of Mary's river, but the greater part of the area of the county is included in the valley of Smith's river, which enters the county near its N. W. angle and leaves it near the N. E. angle. Population in 1820, 5,024,— in 1830, 7,100. Henry belongs to the tenth judicial circuit and fifth district. Tax paid in 1832-3, $1117 10 — in 1833-4.— On lots, ^9 00— on land, $042 20— on 1538 slaves, $384 50— 1409 horses, $84 54—5 studs, $51 00-0 coaches, $10 50—8 carryalls, §8 00—11 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1201 90. Expended in education of poor children in 1832, $149 52— in 1833, $277 11. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. DixviLLE, P. O. 199 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 291 from W. Leatherwoods Store, P. O. 284 ms. from W. and 192 from R. MARTINSVILLE, P. V. and county seat, situated near the left bank of Irvine or Smith river, about 70 ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 207 ms. S. W. by W. of 'Richmond, and 299 from W. C. Besides the ordinary county buildings which are spacious and liandsomely Ituilt of brick — the court house being enclosed with a brick wall and having a well of ex- cellent water attached: It contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 tawrns, 2 mer- cantile stores, 1 tanyard, and several mechanic shops. This little village is fast impruvinir, — it is remarkable for the good health of its inhabitants ; 196 EASTERN VIRGINIA— ISLE OF WIGHT. being situated on a beautiful emi- nence, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country, and well supplied v/itji excellent springs. Seve- ral buildings are being erected. Popu- lation, 50 whites of whom 3 are phy- sicians ; and 34 blacks. CoTirity Co:irts are held on the 2}id Mondxy in every month: Quarter It/ in March, Jxi,nz, A'j.^v.zt and Novem- ber Judge Saunders holds his Cir- cuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- cery on the \st of May and October. Traylorsville, p. O. 305 ms. S. W. of W. and 213 from R.— situ- ated in the vv'estprn part of the coun- ty, 6 miles from Blariinsville and 15 from the North Carolina line, on the im.ain southern post read leading from i Salem, N. C. to Fincastle, Botetourt I Co., in a romantic position, among I hills, rivers and creeks. It com- mands a magnificent view of the Blue Ridge, and its collateral ranges. There is great variety in the soil in the neighborhood, the land being of a I free, productive character, and well watered ; but not very fertile except on the v.-ater courses. At this place there are strong indications of gold and iron, I which are thought lo be abundant in this section of country. There are located here a mercantile store, sad- dler, house of entertainment, and a blacksmith shop Population 25 per- sons: one of whom is a physician. ISLS OF WIGHT. Isle of V/ight was one of the eight original shires, into which Vir- ginia was divjdtd in 16r. 4. Its r.am.e was originally Warrcsquycakc shire. It is bounded N. by James river, which separates it from James City, and Warwick countits, — E. and S. by Nansemond, — Vv''. by Black- water river, which separates it from Southampton, — and N. W. by Surry. Its length is 37 miles, width 11 ; and area 407 square miles ; audit extends in lat. from 36° 38' to 37° 07' N. and in long, from 0° 02' to 0° 36' E. of W. C. This county inclines to the N. E. and S. W. towards the James and Blackwater. It has many creeks and swamps upon its surface, and a great variety of soil, though it is (renerallv thin and sandy. Population in 1S20, 10,139—1830, 10,517, It belongs to \he first judi- cial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1832-3, Si 840 95; in 1833-4 — on lots, 894 34— on land, $303 62—2173 slaves, 8544 50— 1 176 horses, $70 56— 7 studs, $58 03— 25 coaches, $59 90 — 6 carryalls, 86 00—219 gigs, 8125 62. Total, 81876 54. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,8442 98; in 1333, $375 40. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. CoROWAUGH, Sioamp, CrecJc. and P. O in the S. W. part of the county. 35 miles S. W. of Norfolk, 101 ms. from R. and 223 from W. ISLE OF WIGHT C. H. P. 0. situated near the centre of the county, 89 miles S. E. bv E. of R. and 35 ms. a little N. of W. Norfolk. County Courts are held on the 1st Monday in every month ; Quarterly in March, J-une, August txndi Novevi- bcr. Judge Baker holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the fourth of May and seventh of October. Mayfield, p. V. 72 ms. from R. and 195 from W. This little villap-e EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY 197 stands upon 'one of the handsoincst and most highly improved situations in the countv, about 11 miles W. of Smithficld, ys S. of Surry C. H. 12 N. of Isle of Wight C. H and 28 N. of Jerusalem, the scat of justice of Southampton county. Smithfield, p. V. in the northern part of the county, 80 ras. S. E. by E. of R. and 201 from W. C. It is situ- ated on the south side of Pagan creek, a bold and navigable stream, 3 ms. from James river and 15 above Hamp- ton Roads, on an elevated bank, about 25 feet above the waters of the creek ; commanding a beautiful view of both land and water scenery, — the country for 10 ms. on the opposite side of James river is in full view. It contains 350 houses, some of them handsome, 10 general stores, and one apothecary shop, 3 spacious houses of public worship, 1 Episco- palian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist, 1 hotel kept in the best style, and seve- ral boarding houses, a male and a female academy, in which are taught all the branches of polite education, 4 other schools containing generally 150 pupils jointly, children being .sent here to school from the surround- ing country, and some Irom great distances, in consequence of the heal- thiness of the place. The mechani- cal pursuits are 1 saddler, 1 cabinet maker, 2 tailors, working constantly several hands, 2 coach making estab- lishments, 1 extensive tannery; and in the vicinity 2 cotton manufactories. The Bacon curing busi7iess is car- ried on here to great perfection, more extensively and perhaps more profit- ably than in any other place in the U. S. The bacon cured here has long been celebrated for its superior flavor, and the manner in which it is cured ; — large quantities of it are shipped annually in coasting vessels; it commands the preference in all the markets, and it is a source of great revenue. The village is located on the main post road leading from Pe- tersburg to Norfolk 60 ms. from the former, and 40 from the latter. Popu- lation 850 persons; of whom 3 are attorneys and 3 regular physicians. JAMES CITY. J.\MEs City was one of the eight original shires, into which Virginia was divided bv the Legislature in 1634. It is bounded on the N. and N. W. by New Kent, AV. by the Chickahominy river, which separates it from Charles City ; S. by James river, which separates it from Surry, and E. by Warwick and York counties, and York river, separating it from Glou- cester. Its length is 23 miles; its mean breadth 8; and area 184 square miles; and it extends in lat. from 37° 09' to 37° 25' N. and in long, from 0° 03' to 0° 24' E. of W. C. The surface of the county is in undulating hills. Population in 1820.3,161 — 1830,^3,833. It belongs to the third judicial circuit; and second district. Tax paid in 1832-3, S655 44, in 1833-4 on land, 303 41 — 1001 slaves, )§250 25—397 horses, $23 82—2 studs, 830 00—8 coaches, 817 00—2 carryalls, 82 00—81 gigs, $43 80. Total, 8670 28. In 1832 no school commissions report. Expended in 1833 in educating poor children, 854 23. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. James Town. This town the first jnow no longer exi.sts as a place of British seltloment in America (1607.) 'resort to the merchant or artizan; but 198 EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. the spot on which it stood must ever be full of interest to the Antiquarian and the Historian. The land on which it stood has been for a number of years in the family of the Amblers, and has been for some time past in cultivation. The only relic of the olden time, which is pointed out to the traveller, as he hurries past with the swiftness of the wind in the fleet and beautiful and modern steamers which navigate the James, is an old chimney, which we believe be- longed to a church. This old town, stood on a point of land projecting into James river in the southern part of James City Co., in lat. 37° 12' and long. 0° 14' E. of W. C. Stith, in his history of Virginia, (p. 160) says that in the latter end of June 1619 Sir George Yeardley, then Governor, called the first assembly that was ever held in Virginia, at Jamestown; which at that time and for many years afterwards was called James City. Counties not being then laid oft', the representatives of the people were elected by townships ; the Boroughs of Jamestown, Hen- rico, Bermuda Hundred and others, sending their members to the assem- bly; from which circumstances, the lower house was first called the House of Burgesses. The acts of this as- sembly, says Stith, were remitted to England and presented to the London Company, to be read in the court on the 20th March following; for the company had then the regal power of confirming or annulling the acts of assemblJ^ We refer to the compendious his- tory of Virginia, in the first part of this work, for more information con- cerning the history of James Town. WILLIAMSBURG, P. T. and seat of justice for James City county, situated on the summh level between the rivers of York and James ; six miles distant from each, though navi- crable streams for small vessels ap mile of the city, 60 miles E. of R. 12 N. of York'Town, and 163 miles from W.— lat. 37° 16' and long. 0° 20' E. of W.; immediately on the ine dividing the counties ol York and James City, embracing a part of each county in the corporation. This little city, though it has not advanced much in wealth or population, has many very interesting claims on the student of the U. S. It was the cradle of our political existence, and for a long time the seat of govern- ment of "infant Virginia." It now contains about 200 dwelling houses, some of which are going fast to de- cay, and more than 1500 inhabitants, many of whom are weahhy. It is pleasantly laid out in parallel streets, with a pleasant square in the centre of more than 10 acres, where is situ- ated the Court-house, Clerk's Office, and Markethouse, lately built, through which runs the principal street, east and west, one mile in length and more than 100 feet in width. There is also a beautiful green square fronting the old Palace, which was formerly the residence of the Colonial Governor. At one end of this street stands the remains of the old Capitol, which was consumed by fire, in April, 1832, and at the other William and Mary College. The place where this city now stands, and the adjacent country, was first known by the name of the Middle Plantations, and was settled in 1632, by drafts from the adjoining settlements, principally from James Town, 7 miles distant. This place became the seat of government of this colony in 1698, some short time previous to which a great fire occur- red at Jamestown, which consumed the public records, and a larger part of the town, and continued as such until 1779, when it was removed to Richmond. The old Raleigh Ta- vern, where many important commit- tees of the Legislature met — where some of our most distinguished pa- proach on either side, within one triots concerted measures for aiding EASTERN VIRGINIA— JAMES CITY. 199 in the arduous struggle for liberty, and where, it is said, Richard H. Lee and others originated the plan to es- tablish corresponding committees throughout many or all of the colo- nies, is yet remaining, and is occu- pied as a public house ; over the por- tico of which is placed a bust of Sir Walter Raleigh. William and Mary College, which was founded in 1603, during the reign of William and Mary, who granted to it a donation of 20,000 acres of land; is situated at this place, and with various fortunes of advance and recession, has continued to exist as a respectable Literary In- stitution. Besides this donation it received a penny a lb. duty, on cer- tain tobaccos, exported from Virginia and Maryland, which had been levied by the statute of the 2.5th of Charles II. The Assembly also gave it, by temporary laws, a duty on liquors imported, and skins and furs export- ed. From these resources it received upwards of £3000, communibus an- nis. The buildings are of brick and sufficiently large for the accommoda- tion of 100 students. By its charter dated the 8th of February 1692, it was placed under the direction of not less than 20 Visitors, and to have a President and 6 Professors, who were incorporated. It was formerly al- lowed a representative in the General Assembly. Under this charter a pro- fessorship of the Greek and Latin languages, a professorship of Mathe- matics, one ot Moral Philosophy, and two of Divinity were established. To these were annexed, for a sixth professorship, a considerable donation,! by Mr Boyle of England, for the in- struction of the Indians and their' conversion to Christianity. This was called the professorship of Braflerton, from an estate of that name in Eng- land purchased with the monies given.! The admission of the learners of Latin and Greek filled the College; with children. This rendering itj disagreeable, and degrading to young men already prepared for entering on the sciences, they were discouraged from resorting to it, and thus the .school for Mathematics and Moral Philosophy, which might have been of some service, became of very lit- tle. The revenues too were exhaust- ed in accommodating those who came only to acquire the rudiments of sci- ence. After the revolution, the Visi- tors, having no power to change those circumstances in the constitution of the College, which Avere fixed by the barter, and being therefore confined in the number of professorships, un- dertook to change the object of the professorships. They excluded the two schools for Divinity, and that for the Greek and Latin languages, and substituted others. At present it has 19 acting Visitors, and is under the superintendency of a President and 5 Professors, embracing the Professor of Humanity, who has charge of the classical department. There is also a Law department in this Institution. Fronting the building is a beautiful Igreen square, of about 4 acres, In jthe Avalk leading from the gate to the College, stands the marble statue of Norborne Berkeley, (Lord Botte- tourt,) who was formerly GoAernor of jVirginia, and a man distinguished for love of piety, literature, and in the early part of his administration [good government, which was removed !from the old Capitol in 1797, where it was first erected, at the expense of the colony, in 1774. It is much uiutilated, though it still presents a specimen of superior sculpture. A very respectable Female Academy, and 3 other private schools are estab- lished in this place. There is also here a Lunatic Hos- pital, sufficiently large for the accom- modation of 60 patients, in separate rooms or cells; and an addition is now making to enlarge the building, by an increase of 24 cells. The hos- pital is neatly kept and the patients are well attended. Besides the court 200 EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING & QUEEN, house, and other public buildings mentioned, there is a public jail, an Episcopal church, Methodist chapel, and one Baptist meeting house. The public buildings were no doubt erect- ed at great expense, but now present the appearance of decaying grandeur. There are also 16 stores, 1 manufac- tory a short distance from the city, 4 merchant mills in the vicinity, 3 tan- yards, 1 saddler's shop, and a num- ber of mechanics, who are generally employed, 2 benevolent societies, 9 attornics, and 5 regular physicians., This city is remarkably healthy for 9 months of the year. It has the reputation of being unhealthy the re- maining 3 months, though for many years past it has been quitethe reverse. County Courts are held on the Id Monday m every month; — Quarterly in March, May, August and Novem- ber. Judge Upshuu holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chan- cery on the 7th of April and the 22d of October. King «5c GIiieen was created by act of the Colonial Legislature in 1691, in the third year of the reign of William and Mary, and formed out of a part of New Kent county. It is bounded by Caroline on the N. W. — Es- sex N. E. — Piankatank river, separating it from Middlesex, E. — Gloucester S. E. — James river S. — and Matapony river, separating it from King Wil- liam S. W. and W. — Its length is 40 miles, mean width 1 1, and area 335 sq. miles — Extending in lat. from 36° 27' to 37° 56' N. and in long, from 0° 18' E. to 0° 13' W. of W. C. The surface slopes southward towards Ma- tapony river, or southeastward towards Piankatank. Large and extensive ba}iks of 7narlc run entirely through the county, which furnish an inex- haustible source of improvement to this once barren soil: many of the most enterprising farmers have tried it, and the land which previously produced only six to eight bushels of maize or Indian corn to the acre, now bring 20 and 25; and as might be anticipated from such a result a considerable spirit of improA'ement has been excited among the farmers. 3Iarshcs abound in this county, and if reclaimed would doubtless prove valuable. — No county in the state contains memorials of greater magnificence than King 6c Queen, — on the Matapony a beautiful stream which borders the southern part of the county, till it empties into the York river, are the vestiges of many an- cient and once highly improved seats. — Among these we might enumerate Lanei'illc — Plcnsa.yi't Hill — Ncwington — Maniapike — Mantua — Rickohoe — White Hall, ^-c. — known as the former residences of the Braxtons, Cor- bins, Robinsons, &c. The prevailing religion of King & Q,\iecn, is that of the Baptists, who have seven chinches, and five ministers. The Metho- dists have four houses of public worship. There is one free for all deno- minations, and one belonging to the reformed Baptists (or Campbellites.) There are four classical, and many common schools; one extensive manufac- turing flour mill, and 25 others, and 2 lanyards. Population 1820, 11,798 — in 1830, 11,644. This county belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in l'833, S2340 91— in 1834, on lots, @1 79 — on land, >55 1042 18— 3064 slaves, $760 00— 1439 horses, $86 34— 5 studs, $82 00—50 coaches, $127 00—1 stage, $2 50—10 carryalls, $12 30— EASTERN VIRGINIA— KING / Scat, 10 ms. from Snicker's ferry, 42 ms. from Alexandria. It contains 6 dwelling houses, 1 common school, 1 mercan- tile store, and 2 saddlers. The coun- try around is fertile and wealthy, set- tled for the most part by Quakers. Wheat is the principal article pro- duced. Purcell's Store, P. O. 41 ms. N. W. of W., and 163 ms. from R, RosEviLLE, 38 ms. from W. and 146 ms. from R. Snickersville, p. V. in the wes- tern part of the county, 49 ms. W. of W., and 165 from R. This is a thriving and healthy village, advan- tageously situated at the south eastern base of the Blue Ridge mountain, in the midst of a densely populated and business-like neighborhood. It con- tains 16 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship, free for all denomina- tions, 1 common school, 1 Masonic hall, 2 taverns, 2 mercantile stores, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 tailor, I wagon maker, 3 blacksmiths, and 1 copper and tin plate worker. This section of the county is remarkable for the fertility and productiveness of its soil. A good turnpike from Win- chester to Alexandria, passes through it, and intersects at the former place Lcesbuig and Warrcnton, not more than 200 yards from the Fauquier line, and 3 ins. from the Blue Ridge. It contains 64 dwelling houses, 3 mer- cantile stores, 2 taverns and 1 hotel, I manufacturing flour mill, 3 houses of public worship, 1 Baptist, 1 Me- thodist, and 1 free for all denomina- tions, and another is now being erect- ed by the Episcopalians, — I Acade- my, in which the languages are taught, aud 1 common school. The mechanics are, a tanner, hatter, 3 boot and shoe manufacturers, 2 mill Wrights, 1 saddler, 2 house joiners, 1 tin plate worker, 1 bricklayer, 2 stone mason.?, and 2 plasterers. Upper- ville is surrounded by a very popu- lous and fertile country, remarkably well watered, and the land adapted to the growth of corn and wheat, and to grazing, which last is extensively carried on. This place is distant from Alexandria, 46 ms., and 54 from W., and its produce is principally carried to the former. Should the contemplated improvement of the navigation of Goose creek go into operation, it Avill afford an easier mode of transporta- tion, and add greatly to the wealth, and industry of this neighborhood, giving the former a choice of markets, besides les.senincf by more than one with one from Washington to Win- half, the expense of transportation. Chester, which passes through Lccs- burg. An exi'.ellent line of stages. which extends from Washington to Cumberland, in Indiana, passes thro' this village, Winchester and Lcesbvrg: Six mails a week are received at the Population 300 persons: of whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are regular phy- sicians. Union, P. V. in the western angle of the county, 51 ms. N. W. of W., and 173 ms. from R. It contains 25 P. O. Population 98 persons; of I dwelling houses, 3 houses of public whom I is an attorney, and 2 are i worship, I of which belongs to the practising physicians. ! Methodist denomination, and the other Uppehvii/le,* p. V. in the ex- 2 are free for all; 1 common school, 2 treme south western end of Loudoun,; mercantile stores, 1 tavern, a carding 51 ms. W. of W., and 135 ms. from [machine Avorked by horse power, R., situated on the Ashby's Gap turn-jand to Avhich there is also attached a pike road, between Winchester and 'pair of burr stones. There are 1 Alexandria, distant 23 ms. both from temperance society and various me- 'chanical pursuits. The situation is ♦ This post village has by some accident j^g^ltj^ j^ ^ thickly settled neigh- got transposed — it ought to have been in ^ i. . j , r- i-„-.'. t ...i °„j Fauquier Co. bourhood, 16 mt-. from Lcrshvrg,and 216 EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. equi-distantfrom Middleburg, Upper- ville and Snickersville. Population 135 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- ney, and 3 are regular physicians. Waterford, P. V. in the northern part of the county, 37 ms. N. W. of W. C, and 1 59 ms. from R. Wa- terford is a fine flourishing little vil- lage, situated 6 ms. N. W. of Lccs- biirg, the County Scat, on the Kit- toctan creek. The land is equal to any in the state of Virginia, admira- bly adapted to clover and plaister, and is excellent wheat and corn land, which two articles are the staple pro- ductions of the county. Waterford contains 70 dwelling houses, 2 houses of public worship, 1 free for all de- nominations, the other a Friends' meeting house, G mercantile stores, 2 free schools, 4 taverns, 1 manufactur- ing flour mill, and 1 saw, grist and plaister mill, and (in the vicinity) 2 small cotton manufactories. The me- chanics are 1 tanner, 2 house joiners, 2 cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and painter, 1 boot and shoe manufactur- ers, 2 hatters, 1 tailor, <5cc. Popula- tion about 400 persons : of whom 3 are regular physicians. Wood Grove, P. O. in the north- ern part of the county, 44 ms. N. W, of W., and 166 ms. from R. LOUISA. Louisa was created by the Legislature in 1742, and was taken from the upper portion of Hanover county. It is bounded N. by Orange and Spott- sylvania — N. E. by Spottsylvauia, — E. by Hanover, — S. by Goochland and Fluvanna, and W. by Albemarle. Situated between 37° 45' and 38^ 6' N. lat., and between 0° 42' and 1° 17' W. long, from Washington. This county is near the centre of Virginia and near the centre of the re- gion between tidewater and the Blue Ridge. Its mean length is from the line of Albemarle to that of Hanover, 30 miles: its mean breadth, from the upper part of Goochland to that of Spottsylvauia, 18 miles: area 550 sq. miles. Water Courses. — The South Anna, an arm of the Pamunky, runs forty miles through this county in a S. E. direction. On the Orange and Spott- sylvauia line, the North A)i7ia runs an equal distance, bounding Louisa on the N. and N. E. Little river, and Nciofouncl river, rise in Louisa, and having entered Hanover, run, the former into the North-Anna, the latter into the South-Anna. Hopes arc entertained of rendering all these navi- gable to some extent : the South-Anna to the upper part of the county, within 10 miles of its source; and the North-Anna nearly as high. There are 35 rivulets, (here called creeks:) of which 24 arc tributary to the North- Anna, 10 to the South- Anna, and one to Little river. Soil, products, fare of the country, minerals, 6fc. — The soil was origi- nally of at least middling fertility: but by CA'ery species of mismanagement (amid which over-cropping, frequent grazing, had ploughing, scanty ma- nuring, and the culture of tobacco, stand conspicuous,) it has become pitiably barren. On high land six bushels of wheat, or ten of Indian corn, are the average product of an acre. Wheat yields about "i^ or 4 bushels to one of seed. The chief agricultural products are wheat, maize (or Indian corn) and tobacco: the last is diminishing in quantity cvcrjr year; owing more to the exhaustion of the lands suitable to its growth, than to a persuasion of its EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 217 impoverishing tondeucies. The forest land is covered with oak of several kinds, hickory, poplar, gum, maple, dogwood, and especially with yellow pine. The most usual undergrowth is chinquepin, and sometimes whortle- berry. When the soil is exhausted by cultivation, and suffered to lie idle, it shoots up thickets of yellow pine; which in 15 or 20 years form a cover, that affords a means of restoring the soil. There are no mountains. The ground is hilly, or rolling; a circum- stance combining with injudicious ploughing, and whh the light, sandy texture of the soil, to accelerate its impoverishment. Every hard rain sweeps off much uf the richest earth. Towards the upper part of the county is a singular tract of country, of about 8 or 10,000 acres, called "Green Spring land," (from the mineral spring of that name situated in it.) This tract lies in an irregular circle, of from four to six miles diameter : and far exceeds all other high land in the county, both in native fertility, and in susceptibility o( improvement. Its soil is a dark grey, containing very little sand, or stone of any kind; and resting, at a depth of 12 or 15 inches, upon a stratum of compact, firm, red clay, scarcely penetrable by water. Thus the "Green-Spring land" avoids the two great characteristic defects of Louisa land — too large an intermixture of sand, and a too gritty and porous foundation. It is particularly suited to wheat; yielding 8 or 10 bushels to one of seed, without manure: and capable of being made to yield 15, 20, or 30 to one. This oasis is not heavily timbered: its oak and hickory are rather stinted: it has Ihtle or no pine; and a good deal of black-jack — elsewhere a symptom of sterility. The "Green-Spring" water is impregnated chiefly or wholly with sul- phur and magnesia, forming a mild s^dphate of magnesia (Epsom salts.) It has been ascertained to have no iron. This water was once in high vogue, and much resorted to by invalids and people of fashion. But the accommodations for company have now, for 25 or 30 years, been discon- tinued ; and visitors are compelled to throw themselves upon the hospi- tality of the neighborhood. The water is deemed good for dyspepsia, af- fections of the liver and lungs, and several other complaints. This spring is situated in the upper part of the county 60 miles from Richmond, 18 from Louisa C. H., and 25 from Charlottesville. Since the death of the former proprietor (Col. Morris) the place has gone to decay. There were several spacious buildings for the reception of visitors, but some have been consumed by fire, some have fallen down, and only a few houses in a state of rapid decay remain. The issue of the spring is small, but the stream runs constantly and with force. The water is clear and transparent, but quite unpleasant to the taste. Gold has, within two years past, been found abundantly in Louisa. Through the heart of the" count}-, runs that beU of gold land which per- vades Virginia, Carolina, and Georgia: in a direction nearly from N. E. to S. W. (viz. S. 49° 30' W.) Its breadth here is from 1 to 3 miles. No vein has yet been profitably worked. The richest dcpositcs have been found upon Contranj creek, in the northern part of the county. The ordi- nary depth at which these are found, is from, one to four feet; and nons deeper than 12 feet. In one of them (called "Tinder's mine") at the depth of 10 or 12 feet, the value of about 820,000 has been found; and near $10,000 of this were obtained within six days, ni November, 1833, by about 25 hand.s. There are nine deposites on or near the creek just_ men- tioned, which have been more nr Irss worked, and altogether have yielded 28 218 Eastern Virginia— louisa. near $40,000. Contiguous to one of them, (Walton's) a promising vein of rich ore has been opened, by a perpendicular shaft of 50 feet, and tlien a horizontal tunnel of 10 or 12 feet. This is the only instance in Louisa of a vein wrought upon scientific principles. Towards the S. W. part of the county, also, promising indications both of deposites and veins have been found : but none of them have been ex- tensively wrought. The usual indicia of vein-gold are cellated quartz, with talcose slate, sulphuret (or pyrites) of iron, &c. The deposites (which are thought to be broken down or j>artialli/ decomposed veins) are indicated commonly by the same signs ; and are usually in quartzose strata (or layers,) G, 10, or 12 inches thick; resting upon beds of slate. The apparatus for obtaining doposite gold is very simple and cheap: con-- sisting (besides the digging tools) of a small stream of water; a sort ot trough called a rocker, in which the earth is shaken in water, to separate it from the gold; a few tin-pans, and some quicksilver, to collect the fine particles of gold by its attraction. At the mines on Contrary, one hand ordinarily obtains from one to i\vc dwt. per day. One dwt. to the hand is considered profitable. There wer? from 60 to 70 hands employed in the county, on an average, during the year 1833, in searching for gold. Seve- ral mining companies having now been chartered by the Legislature, much more capital and labor will doubtless soon be employed. Iron ore is plentiful through the gold region. It was partially wrought before the Revolution, to supply a furnace in Spottsylvania : and might be worked to advantage now, were not wood scarce in the vicinity. Graphite, or carburet of iron, (improperly called black lead,) has been found in considerable quantities on the eastern branch of Contrary and on Cub creek; the former 2 or 3 miles and the latter 6 or 7 miles below the gold region. A range of granite from 5 to 8 miles wide, extends nearly across the county in much the same direction as the gold range, and in part coincid- ing with it; though generally the granite lies higher up the country, taper- ing off in the form of an ellipse, 6 or 8 miles to the S. W. of the Court House. Good millstones have been made of this rock. It is intermixed with the coarser and less pure granite, called gneiss. The rest of the county, without the granite region, is of the secondary formation ; chiefly slate, with quartz, mica, and some gneiss. Yet granite occasionally ap- pears miles distant from the range just described. On the eastearn or rather south-eastern edge of the granite formation, about 5 miles N. E. of Louisa C, H., is a quarry of stone 7iovactditt or Virginia oil-stone, highly valued for whet-stones. This quarry is a seain, or vein, 50 or 60 feet long and of unknown depth, in the centre of a peculiar formation, which extends for three-quarters of a mile in length, by a half-a-mile in breadth, partly within and partly without the granite range. The Virginia oilstone is exquisite- ly fine, and free from grit, yet sufficiently soft.* It is composed o[ feldtz- par, chrystallized silc.r, and sometimes hornblend, (three of the four ele- ments of granhe ) Another whetstone quarry is ten miles S. of Louisa C H., near what is called the Rack-punch, or Arrack-punch spring: but this is coarse compared with the former, being a sort of sandstone. Population iu 1830 , 16,151, or 29 to the ^square mile. The following * Tins valuable whetstone is now brou?ht into market in larpe quantities bv The propneters, y«.?/-,.. Colnwn, liaymond cf- Keller, Richmond. It has spread extensive- ly over the UnUcd States, and been sent to Europe. EASTERN VIRGINIA— LOUISA. 219 table shews the population, and its three comparative classes, at tlie lliree last enumerations. Years. Whites. Sla ves. Free CoFd people. Total. 1810 5,253 0,430 157 11,840 1820 5,967 7,560 219 13,746 1830 G,4G8 9,382 301 16,151 The slaves have increased more rapidly than whites; the free colored people more rapidly than either. The following table shews at what rate per cent the whole population and each of its three classes, have increased, both during the whole 20 years preceding the last census, and during each half of that period: In-, of \mtcs. //(. of slaves. III. Fr. CoVd. In . vhoJe -pop Periods. perceiu. per cent. per cent. per cent. From 1810 to 1820 13^ 17^ 39 16 From 1820 to 1830 8^ 24 37 17i From 1810 to 1830 23 4G 91 36^ The county contains about 1400 dwelling houses, besides those occupied by slaves. None of them can pretend to elegance or grandeur ; for the greater number is of one story, and wooden, either framed or made with logs. Scarcely 20 are made of brick: and even painting is rare. Trades, occupations, A Roads, P. O. 45 miles N. W. of R. and 101 from W. situated on the stage road leading from Fredericksburg to Cartersville, 50 miles S. of the former, and 20 N. of the latter, 40 miles E. of Char- lottesville, 7 from Yanceyville, and 15 from Louisa C. H. — There are 2 dwelling houses, 2 cabinet maker's shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, and 1 Baptist house of worship, called South Anna meeting house, located at thi.s place. It is situated on the south side of South Anna river, within the dis- tance of half a mile from its banks. Poixdexter's Store, P. O. 68 miles N. W. of R. and 135 of W., situated within half a mile from South Anna river, 10 miles from Ijouisa C. H. and 25 from Charlottesville. This place contains a general store, car- riage maker, blacksmith shop, and one Baptist house of public worship. Yanceyville, a small village on the South Anna river, 44 miles from R., 8 from Louisa C. H. and 40 from Charlottesville. This village contains a tavern, general store, blacksmith shop, boot and shoe factor^', manufac- turing flour mill, and a meeting house, free for all denominations. LUNENBURG. Lunenburg was created by act of the Legislature in 174G, and formed from a part of Brunswick count)\ It is bounded N. by Prince Edward, — N. E. by Nottoway river, which separates it from Nottoway county, — E. by Brunswick, — S. by Meherrin river, which separates it from Mecklenburg, and W. by Charlotte. — Its length is 25 miles, mean breath IG, and area 400 square miles; and it extends in lat. from 37° 46' to 37° 04', and in long. 1° 8' to 1° 22' W. of W. C. A ridge runs through the county, from E. to W. N. W., from which the waters flow N. E. and S. E. into the Nottoway and Meherrin. The general slope of the county is S. E. by E. Popula- tion in 1820, 10,667--in 1830, 11,957. Lunenburg belongs to the ninth judicial circuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1833, $2392 18 — in 1834, on land, $1056 91—3813 slaves, $953 25—2236 horses, $134 16—7 studs, $100 00—46 coaches, $128 00—26 carryalls, $26 00—88 gigs, $53 85 — Total, $2452 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $282 41— in 1833, $212 20. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Brydie's Store, P. O. in the nor- thern part of the county, 82 ms. S. W. of R. and 204 from VV. Columbian Grove, P. O. 98 ms. S. W. of R. and 220 from W., .situ- ated on Saflbld's road, 4 ms. N. of Saffbld's bridge across Meherrin river, 10 ms. E. of Lewi.'! f 0/1, the county seat, and 58 W. S. W. of Petersburg. The lands in the neighborhood arc tolerably fertile, producing corn,Avheat, cotton and tobacco, the latter article is the staple commodity, and grows to great perfection on the low lands, creek bottoms, and margins of streams. Double Bridge, P. O. 87 miles S. W. of R. and 206 from W. Haleysburgh, p. O. 210 miles from W. and 95 from R. LEWJSTON, P. V. usually called EASTERN VIRGINIA— LUNENBURG. 223 Lunenburg C It., 01 ms. S. W. ofj Richmond, ami 213 from W. C. — in lat. 36° 50' N. and in long. 1° 16' W. of W. C. It is situated about the centre ot the county, in an elevated and healthy part of it, on the stage road leading from Petersburg, to Wil- liamsburg, N. C. and the stage passes through on every day except Sunday. It contains 20 dwelling houses, besides a handsome court house of brick, with a portico, and four large columns in front, jail and clerk's oflice, 2 mer- cantile stores, and 2 taverns. The principal mechanics are wheelwrights, saddle and harness makers and black- smiths. This town was lad ofi'iu the year 1817, by act of assembly of that year. There was at that lime but one family living here. The distance from Petersburg is 65 miles, from Hampden Sydney College 28, and from Randolph Macon College 30 miles. Population 75 persons; of whom two are attorneys, and one a practising physician. County Courts are held on the 2(1 Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, Avgust and No- vember. Judge Leigh holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the Alh of May and October. Laurel Hill, P' O. 94 ms. S. W. of R. and 216 from W. McFar land's, p. O. 79 ms. from R. and 201 from W. Meiiekrin Guove, p. O. 92 ms. S. W. of R. and 194 from W. Oak Grove, P. O. 88 ms. from R. and 210 from W. Pleasant Grove, P. O. 89 ms. S. W. of R. and 204 from W. Wattsboro', p. O. in the Avestern part of the county, 97 ms. S. W. of R. and 219 from W. 3IADISON. The county of IVladison was created by the Legislature in the year 1792, and was taken entirely from the county of Culpcper. It is bounded on the north by the counties of Rappahannock and Culpeper, on the south by the county of Orange, on the west by the counties of Rockingham and Page, (the top of the Blue Ridge being the dividing line,) and on the east by a part of Culpeper and Orange. Its length is 2'o\ miles, and its breadth 12^ ; and it contains an area of about 290 miles square, extending in lat. from 38^ 14' to 38° 38' N. and in long, from 1° 09' to 1° 30' W. of AV. C. In the western part of the county there are several large mountains extending from the Blue Ridge into the county in an easterly direction from five to ten miles; the principal of these are, the Ragged mountain, the Double Top mountain, the Forked mountain, and the BlufT mountain; they are more elevated than the Blue Ridge. From these large and lofcy mountains, there are a number of small mountains projecting from them into the county, some of which, are very fertile, and produce in great abundance, wheat, rye, oats, corn, hemp, and tobacco: wheat may be con- sidered the staple of the county. In the mountain region small quantities of tobacco are made, and when well managed, it is of superior quality, and of fine texture and flavor. Between these mountains there are fine valleys of rich bottom land. Fruit of almost every description common to the cli- mate, particularly apples, grow to great perfection and in great abundance, in the mountains of Madison. Hughes' river rise.'^ in the Blue Ridge, in the north part of the count}', and constitutes apart of the dividing line between Madison and Rappahan- nock. The Robin.son river risc-^ in like manner in the Blue Ridce, and 224 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. winds its course between the Ragged and Double Top mountains; it affords a quantity of fine low grounds. The high lands properly managed are ve- ry productive in small grain. This part of the county is thickly inhabited by industrious, independent farmers. The Rapid Ann (formerly called the Staunton river) rises in the Blue Ridge, between the Double Top mountain and the Bluff mountain, it winds its course in a southeastern direction and passes through a beautiful rich valley, for 8 or 10 miles, where the small mountains break off abruptly. The pine lands commence about that point and extend with a mixture of hickory, oak, chesnut, locust, poplar, &c. to the lower end of the county, a distance of between 15 and 20 miles. The Robinson and Rapid Ann rivers form a junction immediately at the lovyer end of the county. The Rapid Ann, from 10 to 1.5 miles above the union with the Robinson, receives several tributary streams, to wit: the Conway or Middle river, the South river and the Blue Run. At the lower end of the county, in what is called the Robinson fork, Gryan's run passes through a rich tract of country and empties into the Robinson river. The German ridge, which is a spur of the Double Top mountain, lies east of the Rapid Ann river a short distance, and runs south nearly parallel with the river, until it breaks off at the Rapid Ann meeting house. On the east of this little mountain there are several bold, fine springs, which constitute the head waters of the white oak run, which empties into the Robinson river, about two miles north of Madison C. H. and near the German Lutheran church. This small stream which extends 8 or 10 miles from its source to its junc- tion with the Robinson river, affords a large body of beautiful rich bottom land, it contains a dense and wealthy population. This river passes within half a mile on the west of Madison C. H. In the county there are seve- ral other small streams, such as Dark run. Cedar run, between Madison and Culpeper, the Big run and Whetstone run, which empties into the Rapid Ann, near \^here the small mountains break off' In the county of Madi- son there is but one incorporated town, called "The Town of Madison," it contains the county seat of Justice. It is a thriving little village, located very near the centre of the county, on a high, elevated ridge, and commands a beautiful and picturesque view of the Blue Ridge and ail of the Ihtle mountains extending into the county. The Thoroughfare mountain is a small mountain, about 8 miles N. E. of Madison C. H. and the Lost moun- tain about 5 miles S. E. of the C. H. They are entirely detached from the other mountains, and are nearly 20 miles east of the Blue Ridge. The public buildings have been recently erected of brick. The C. H. is built in the Corinthian order, and the workmanship executed in superior style. There are a number of private schools in the county of Madison, but no public seminary of learning. About the mountains there are many indica- tions of iron ore, particularly about ihe Forked mountain. Lead has been found on some parts of the German ridge, and it is said recently that some signs of gold have been seen in the lower end of the county, Ijut no particular search or examination has been made. There are two springs in the Ger- man ridge and near it, which are strongly impregnated with sulphur, but the water has never been analyzed and no attention seems now to be paid to it. This county is generally well watered, it has a pure climate, portions of it very rich soil, susceptible of a high state of improvement by clover and plaster, and for beauty and sublimity of scenery, surpassed by kw spots in Virginia. It contains 12 manufacturing flour mills, 20 gri&t mills, from 10 to 15 saw mills, a number ol' tanneries, wheelwrights, carpenters, black- EASTERN VIRGINIA— MADISON. 225 smiths, saddlers, carding machines, and 1 5 general stores and groceries. There are in this county 5 resident physicians and 2 attorneys, 6 ministers of the gospel, and 15 churches or meeting houses, and a numher of itine- rant preachers, principally of the Methodist persuasion. The different reli- gious sects in this county are the Baptists, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Lu- therans and Methodists — the Baptists being the most numerous. Population in 1820, 8,490— in 1830,9,236. It belongs to the eleventh judicial circuit, and sixth district. Ta.xes paid in 1833, $2179 70 — in 1834, on lots, $31> 46— on land, $1350 54— 2247 slaves, $561 75—1171 horses, $118 26— 7 studs, $76 00—23 coaches, $47 25—3 carryalls, $3 00—22 gigs, $15 25 — Total, $2211 51. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 6248 10— in 1833, $316 82. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Criglersville, p. O. 10 ms. N. of the court house. Graves, P. O. situated in the Aves- tern part of Madison, 108 miles from R. and 1 1 S. W. of W. James Citv, P, O. 87 ms. from W. and 105 from R. — situated on Crooked run, on the north side of Thoroughfare mountain, nine miles distant both from Madison and Culpeper court houses, on the line which divides the two counties of Cul- peper and Madison. It contains one large, well kept tavern, called Madi- son Inn, one mercantile store, one boot and shoe factory, a tailor, black- smith shop, and a merchant mill. — There is a Baptist house of worship in the vicinity. Population 50. MADISON, P. V. and scat of jus- tice, situated near the centre of the county, 110 miles N. N. W. of R. and 96 S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 38° 22' N. and long. 1° 15' W. of W. C. This village, besides the or- dinary county buildings, contains 34 dwelling houses, 6 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 houses of public worship, of which one belongs to the Episco- palians, and the other is free for all denominations, (of which the princi- pal part are Baptists, Methodists, E- piscopalians, Presbyterians, and Lu- therans,) and 2 well organized Sun- 29 day schools. There are in the vicinity 5 manufacturing flour mills. The mechanics of the village are 2 tanners and curriers, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe makers, 1 wheelwright, 3 black- smiths, 1 coppersmith and tin plate worker, 1 wagon maker, 1 house joiner, 1 cabinet and wheat fan maker, and 4 tailors. The town is heahhy, and improving. It has 2 resident at- torneys and 4 practising physicians; whole population 290. Coimty Courts are held on the 4 /A Thursday in every month ; — Quarter- ly in February, May, July and Oc- tober. , Judge Field holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 12//iof il/^^ and October. Rapid Ann Meeting House, P. O. situated in the western part of the county, 102 miles from R. and 104 S. W. of W. This little village con- tains 8 dwelling houses, besides shops, &.C., 3 houses of public worship, 1 Baptist, 1 Episcopalian, and 1 free for all denominations, 1 common school, 3 mercantile stores, 1 house of enter- tainment, 1 tanyard, 2 wagon makers, 1 chair maker, 1 boot and shoe facto- ry, 1 blacksmith shop, &c. Popula- tion 73 persons; of whom one is a physician. 226 EASTERN VIRGINIA— iMATHEWS. MATHKWS. Mathews was created by act of Assembly, m 1790, and formed from a pan of Gloucester county. This county is a peninsula, extending into the Chesapeake bay, united to the main by a narrow neck of land scarcely a mile wide, and its boundaries are almost entirely of water. It is bounded on the north by Piankalank river, which separates it from Middlesex, and by the Chesapeake; on the south by the Chesapeake and Mob- Jack bays; on the east by the Chesapeake; and on the west by North river and Moh- Jack bay and a narrow neck of land uniting it to Gloucester — extending in lat. from 37° 22' to 37° 30' N. and long, from 0° 33' to 0° 48' E.of W. C. This county is indented by numerous inlets from the bay, which cut and divide the land into a number of small necks, that are bounded on each side by a creek or river. The principal rivers are the Piankatank, East, and North rivers. The former is a bold stream, about a mile wide at its mouth, and extending itself 30 or 40 miles, into the interior, terminates in the Dragon swamp. East river is about the same width of the Piankatank at its mouth, which opens into Mob-Jack bay; it runs about 8 or 9 miles up, in the centre of the county, four mile.s from its mouth it sends off a branch," named Pudding creek, at the head of which is situated the court house. North river likewise enters into Mob-Jack bay; it does not differ much in size from the two rivers just described, and runs up into Glouces- ter, for the distance of 15 miles. These rivers arc all salt, of course, as they derive their Avaters from the bay, a little fresh Avater mingles with them at their heads, but does not materially affect their saltncss,Vxcept after very heavy and long continued rains. Besides these rivers, there are creeks almost too numerous to be named. Muddy creek is at the upper part of the county, and forms part of the line of separation from Gloucester: it is a ve- ry inconsiderable creek, and enters the Piankatank. Cob's creek is rather larger, it is about a mile long, and enters the same river 3 or 4 miles above its mouth. Queen's creek is much more considerable in size, being a fourth of a mile wide, and three miles in length; it enters the Piankalank at its mouth. About three miles below Glueen's creek, is the mouth of Slut's creek, which opens into Milford Ilaven, it is of the same size with Glueen's creek. Two miles below are Lilley's and Billup's creeks, they are small and near each other; they enter Milford Ilaven. A part of the bay which flows in between the main land and Gwj'n's island, and extends from the mouth of Piankatank to Billup's creek, is called Milford Haven, and is a secure harbor for vessels. At the lower extremity of the Haven is situated a small, uninhabited island, named Rigby's, between which and the main, is a passage called the Thoroughfare. A short distance below this is Gar- den creek, which is a small stream that enters into the Chesapeake. Off the mouth of this creek is a shoal, extending five miles out in the bay, nam- ed the Wolf Trap, and on which is stationed a light boat. Winter Harbor is a creek or inlet from the bay, which is narrow at its entrance, after run- ning a few hundred yards widens, and diverging extends itself into small branches, which run a mile or two in the land. Horn Harbor is another inlet just below the former, being much larger but not extending itself any farther in the land. Dicr's creek is an inconsiderable stream, just below Horn Harbor. The point of land lying below Uier's creek, is the lowest extremity of the county, named New Point Comfort; it is a sandy point Avhich juts out into the bay, and on which h erected a Light House. After EASTERN VTRrjINrA— MATHEWS. 227 leaving New Point (.'onifort and asoonclinr^ on the south side of tlie county, about one mile above is Harper's creek, whicli is small. Pepper creek two miles above is more considerable. Two or three miles higher up, is tlie mouth of East river, between which and the mouth of North river is a point called White's. Entering tlie North river a short distance froni its mouth, is (todsey's creek, and 4 or 5 miles higher is Black Water creek, opening in the North river and running a mile or two into the interior. This county is only 20 miles long, and in its widest section not more than 8, and area 127 sq. miles, varying from that width, down to a point, so that it will be seen from the sketch of the water courses, that the land is divided into many sections or nocks: — thus Chapel neck is a small body of land lying between North river and Black Water: — White's neck lies between North and East rivers, and consists of a considerable body of land which terminates at White's point. The land lying between Cob's and Queen's cr. is called Cow neck, and terminates in two j)oints denominated Iron and Bur- ton's points. Between Q,ueen's and Slut's creeks, is situated Crab neck, at the north corner of which neck is a place called Cricket hill. Lying be- tween Lilley's and Billup's creeks, is Lilley's neck. Between Winter and Horn Harbors, is a small point of land named Potatoe neck. I'he body of land which is situated between Horn Harbor and East river, extending from thence to the lowest e.vtremity of the county is known as Point Comfort. The mo.st remarkable feature in the topography of this county is its ex- treme levelness. The banks of the Piankatank river are somewhat elevated and from thence the land descends in an almost uninterrupted plain, until it terminates in the waters of the bay. It was evidently at some period co- vered by the sea, or bay, as the whole face of the country incontestibly proves. There are about 60,000 acres of land in this county, which is of a medium quality as regards feltility. It produces corn and oats, but is not so well adapted to wheat, from its extreme humidity; the country lays so remarkably level, that it is a very laborious and difficult operation to drain and lay dry the land. The soil is generally a sandy loam, with a substra- tuni of clay; there is little or none of silicious earth, nor does it contain any calcareous matter. Marl has been found in some parts of this county, and if sought, could no doubt be obtained in most places by digging to a suffi- , cient depth. In digging wells, coccle shells, oj-ster shells, and the shells of many testaceous animals, not known at the present day, are found 20 feet below the surface; together with wood, roots, weeds and a variety of unde- composcd vegetable substances. Recently, the leg bone of an animal, sup- posed to be an ox, akhough much larger than thai animal now exists, was found twenty feet below tlie surface, wiiich is lower than the bed of the con- tiguous river. These facts present matter for interesting speculations to the minds of the geologist and naturalist. The natural growth of timber on this land is oak, which ship carpenters say, will vie with the live oak, pine, chesnut and gum. The land after cultivation, if permitted to lie out, invariably puts up a growth of pine. Mathews contains a population of 7GG6 souls, of which number 3481 are slaves, and 190 free negroes. The people of this county are engaged in ship building, maritime and agricultural pursuits. Until recently the two former occupied their principal attention; so entirely were they engaged in ship building some years back, that the cultivation of the soil, was almost entirely neglected, and it was necessary to import corn for home consump- tion—hence it is that this county has been behind others in agricultural 228 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS. skill; lately vessel building has decreased, and agriculture receives more attention. About 20 years ago, there were annually built one hundred ves- sels of various sizes and denominations, from large ships down to the small- est craft; at the present period there are built, every year, from 20 to 30 vessels of different burdens. There are belonging to this county about 200 ship carpenters, a great number of them find employment in the Navy Yai-ds and other places during the summer months, and return to their homes on the approach of winter. The low price at which vessels are built render it rather unprofitable, and the workmen cannot all find employment at home. East river is a port of entry, and has a Collector, and Inspector of the revenue attached to it; there are 1700 tons of shipping belonging to this port, among which is one ship, one brig, and a number of schooners and small skippers. Some of them make voyages to almost every part of the commercial world, hence it is, that many of the 'young men are trained to the perils of the sea. This county is supplied with meal by means of wind and tide mills, there being 10 wind and 2 tide mills, with only one common grist mill; conse- quently the people do not feel much inconvenience from long, dry seasons, except in procuring water for the cattle. The land, lying almost on a dead level, there cannot be any fresh water streams running through it, and con- sequently in dry seasons every cattle hole, at which the stock was watered dries up, and they suffer much from thirst. Sometimes, in excessive drought, the inhabitants have difficulty in procuring water to drink themselves. Wells are generally dug 8 or 10 feet deep, so that the water they contain is that Avhich filtrates through the earth, and when the ground becomes dry, the water ceases to flow; but recently wells have been dug 30 feet, Avhen large veins of water have been found, which are inexhaustible. There are a few springs of excellent water, but they are rare. The manufacture of castor oil has been carried on by only one press, a [ew years since the palma christi bean was extensively cultivated, but it is now reduced. On the east side of the county is an island comprehended within its limits and known by the name of Gwyn's island; it contains 2000 acres of land, and 200 inhabitants. It is surrounded by the waters of the Chesapeake; it has two points, that to the north is called Cherry Point, and that to the south Sandy Point. There is a tradition, that Pocahontas, in attempting to swim across the Piankatank river, was near drowning, but was rescued from a Avatery grave by an individual, to whom, as a reward for his services, she gave this island. After Lord Dunmore was driven from Williamsburg, he took up his quarters on this island, where he remained some time. The predominant religion of the people is the Methodist; there are in this county seven meeting houses belonging to that denomination, two of which belongs to the reformed Methodist; there are two Baptist meeting houses, the congregations attached to which are rather thin ; there are a few Episcopalians and Universalists, who, however have no places for pub- lic worship; the latter never had any church, and the churches held by the former, under the old established English church, have fallen into dilapida- tion and decay. There is a Sunday school kept at almost every house of public worship in the county, and several common schools, but no academy. Population in 1810, 4227— in 1820, 6920— in 1830, 7666. It belongs to the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $955 98 —in 1834, on land, $380 13—1694 slaves, $423 50-5-59 horses, $^33 54 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 229 — 13 coaches, 8950 07. $10 10— M carryalls, $10 20—80 gigs, $50 GO— Total, TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Bell Isle, P. O. in the northern part of tlie county, 13 ms. S. E. oi" R. and 182 S. S. E. of W. MATHEWS C. H. or Wcslvlllc, P. V. and seal of Justice, is situated near the centre of the county. It lies in 37° 35' N. lat. and 0° 40' E. hng. of Washington, 100 ms. E. of R. and 184 from W. C. Westville contains about 30 houses, 4 mercantile stores, 1 lanyard, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1 tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 car- riage maker, and 1 tavern. The pub- lic buildings are a very neat, new C. H., 2 jails, 1 for criminals and the Other for debtors, and a clerk's office. These houses are all well built of brick. Westville is a port of entry; there are 2 regular packets which ply between this place and Norfolk week- ly, and 1 that runs from it to Balti- more. Population 150, including 3 regular physicians. Con Illy Courts are held on the 2r, tailor, wheelwriglit, blacksmith, boot and shoe maker, house of public wor- ship, free for all denominations, and 2 Sunday schools. The situation is handsome, and well chosen for a vil- lage, 12 ms. S. W. of <)range C H. 17 ms. from Charlottesville, and 6 ms. from the elegant seat of the venera- ble ex-president M.\dison. A mail from the N., and 1 from the S. ar- rives here every day, and a horse mail twice a week. Population 50 persons; of whom 1 is a physician. BuRTOXsviLLE, P. O. iu the eas- tern part of the county, 98 ms. N. W. of R. and lOS from W., situated on the S. bank of the Rapid Ann river, and immediately on the main road leading from Fredericksburg to Swift Run Gap, 50 ms. above the former, and 14 ms. below the latter, 16 ms. above Orange C. 11. and 6 ms. below Stannardsville, 10 ms. S. of Madison C. H. and 28 ms. S. of Culpeper C. H. at the intersection of the roads leading from the two last mentioned places to Charlottesville, and Swift Run ( iap, about i 1 ms. W. of Mr. Aladison's residence, and 25 N. of CharlottesviHc. J^urtonsville was formerly extensively known, on ac- count of its commercial business, but at present it has only a private resi- dence, and P. O. The soil of the sur- rounding country is good, and well adapted, to the culture of tobacco, In- dian corn, wheat. Rye, &c. and sus- ceptible of easy and high improve- ment by the use of clover, plaster, &c. The neighbourhood is Avell watered and healthy, with an indus- trious and thriving community. CuKs.M'T Hii-L, p. O. 85 ms. from R. and 87 n^.s. from \V. EASTERN VIRGINIA— 01LVNc;E, 255 Cavesvillk, p. O. situated 6 ms.|mail stages run daily through this above Barhoursville, on the road place liom Washington City to the from Swift Run Gap, to Richmond, VV. and one tri weekly, 4 horse coach 82 ms. N. ^y. of R. and 111 ms. from here to Richmond Population from W. .303 persons ; of whom 4 arc attorneys GoRDOxsviLLK, P. O. 70 ms. N. and 3 regular physicians, ^V. of R. and 102 ms. S. W. of VV., j Coitnlij Courts axe held on the Mh situated at the eastern foot of the S. .l/<^«^/«// in every month. Qvarlcrly W. mountain, and on the sources of, in March, Mai/, Avgusl and Nurcm- the North Anna river, about 50 ms. /icr. S. W. by W. of Fredericksburg, and: Jidgk Field holds liis Circuit 10 ms. S. of Oraiijic C. H. It con- Superior Court of Law and Cliancery tains several dwelling houses, a mer-jon the 28/A of April and September. cantile store, tavern and smith's shop. Oraxgk Spuing, P. O. 104 ms. LocrsT Grove, P. O. 86 ms. from I from R. and 04 ms. from W. R. and 70 ms. S. W. of AV. i River Bank, or Ellisvillc P. O. Poplar Run, P. O. 83 ms. from 97 ms. from R. and 104 ms. S. W. of R., and 95 ms. S. W. of W. jW., situated at the junction of Hicko- ORANGE C. H. P. V. 80 ms.|ry creek whh the North Anna river, from R. and 92 ms. from W., situated: It contains 10 dwelling houses, 1 about equi-dislant frour the N. E. audi mercantile store, I manufacturing flour N. W. angles of the county; 3 ms. jmill, 1 grist and saw mill, 1 tanyard, from the Rapid Ann river, and 8| 1 saddler, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe ms. from the North Anna, or north I maker, 1 blacksmith, 1 wheelwright, branch of the Pamunkey. This is!l cabinet maker, and 1 house carpen- onc of the most flourishing inland tor. This place is rapidly improving- villages below the mountains. It and bids fair to become a flourishing contains besides the ordinary county j village. Population about 100. buildings, 51 dwelling houses, mostly! Stanardsville, P. O. 92 ms. of brick, and built in a handsome from R. and 1 14 S. W. of W., situated style, 9 mercantile stores, 2 hou. es i f in the extreme western part of the Co. public worship, built of brick, (1 Epis- near the Blue Ridge, immediately on copalian, and 1 Methodist,) 1 female the Hillsborough road, leading from academy, 2 common schools and 2 Louisa C. H. to Harrisonburg, in a hotels. The mechanics are 1 hat healthy and pleasant neighborhood, manufacturer, 2 cabinet makers, 1 sil- It contains 21 dwelling hou.'^es, 5 ver smith and jeweller, 3 blacksmiths, mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 1 boot and shoe manufacturer, 1 tan- 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 yard, 1 house and sign painter, 2 tailor, 2 smith shops, 1 wheelwright, bricklayers, 3 house carpenters, 1 1 hatters shop, and 1 gun smith. Pop- wagon maker, 2 tailor.s, 1 coach ma- ulation, whites, 90 persons; of whom ker, 1 saddle and harness maker, 1 1 is a physician, — colored 52. Total, turner, and 1 printing office, from 1 42. which a weekly paper is issued. The Thorn e Hill, P. O. 92 ms. from facilities of stage accommodation in R., and 104 from W. this village are perhaps not to be sur- Verdierville, P. O. 91 ms. from passed in the state. Thirty mails are R., 81 nis. from W. received at the P. 0. in each week: 2 256 EASTERN VIRC4INIA— PATRICK. PATRICK. Patrick county was established by the Legislature in 1791, and tal^en from Henry Co. Patrick is a border county, extending along the State line between Virginia and North Carolina, a distance of between 45 and 50 miles. It is bounded on the N. by the Blue Ridge mountains, Avhich ia running W. approach so near the Carolina line, as to make the county very narrow at its western extremity. In fact the county formerly extended to the point where the mountain intersected the state line: but a considerable portion of its former western extremity has been added to the county of Grayson, for the convenience of the people residing therein. The con- tiguous counties on the N. and W. are the trans-montane counties of Floyd and Grayson ; on the E. it is bounded by the counties of Franklin and Henry. Its width varies from 30 to 80 miles, averaging something like 20 miles: and its area is 541 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 36° 30' to 30° 47' N. and in long, from 2° 56' to 3° 40' W of W. C. The general face of the county is broken, but not as much so as that of most of the piedmont counties to the eastward of it. It is inter-sected however by several considerable mountains ranging from E. to \V. The principal of these is the Bull Motifitain, which unites with the main moun- tain at its western extremity, and runs eastwardly nearly to the eastern boun- dary of the county, dividing it (not very unequally) from W. to E. The Court House is situated on the S. side of this mountain at the distance of 3 or 4 miles from its summit, which is as near as a suitable situation could be procured, on account of the spurs of the mountain. There is another mountain (Avhich may he considered a spur of the Blue Ridge) called Carter s mountain. It leaves the main mountain S. of the Bull mountain and ranges nearly parallel whh it, inclining a little more to the S. This mountain is not very long, extending in length not more than 8 or 10 miles. It lies very near the Courthouse, immediately S. of it, and terminates nearly opposite to it. The No Business mountain runs also parallel with the Bull mountain, on the S. side of it, but lies de- tached from the main mountain near the eastern end of the county. It is probably 7 or 8 miles long, and ranges pretty much in a line with Carter's mountain, there being however an interval of 4 or 5 miles between the eastern end of the one and the western end of the other. These are all the mountains which have acquired a distinct name and character; there are however a great number of spurs and knobs, which though nameles.'s, might w^ell deserve some distinguishing appellation. These generally extend out from the Blue Ridge in various directions and for various dis- tances. The principal water courses are the Dan, Smi/h''s river, the Mayos, and the Ararat, with their tributaries; — all which not only intersect the county, but have their sources in the mountains which form its northwestern border. The Dan rises in a plain on the fop oi the Blue Ridge, some 8 or 10 miles from the declivity of the mountain, and running to the S. waters an extensive and level body of land called the meadows of Dan. It then breaks through the mountain, or rather tumbles down the mountain, and struggling on for 8 or 10 miles among .stupendous cliffs and precipices, reaches the level country, not far from the Slate line, and crosses into North Carolina. This stream crosses the county within about 10 miles of its Avcstcrn extrcmitv. EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 257 The Ararat also rises on tlie flat tabic laiicl on the top of tlie mounUiiii, not very remote from the head of the Dan, but takes a dillerenl direction. It runs to the S. W. and crossing the state line near the western extremity of the county, takes its way through the county of Surry, N. C. and empties into the Yadkin. Smilh'.s river has its source in the Blue Ridge to the N. of the Bull mountain, and traversing that section of the county lying between the Bull and Blue Ridge mountains from W. to E., crosses near the eastern ex- tremity of the Bull mountain into the county of Henry. There are two Maj/os, the South Mayo and North Mayo. The South Mayo rises in the main mountain, between the Bull mountain and Carter's mountain, and running southeastwardly between those two mountains, passes by the Court House, and crossing the south side of the country diagonally, enters North Carolina near the southeastern corner of the county. The North Mayo rises in the Bull mountain, on its S. side, and running eastwardly for some di.stance between that mountain and the No Busines.-s mountain, turns to the S. around the eastern extremity of the last named mountain, and enters North Carolina, first passing through a small corner of the county of Henry. — The two Mayos unite soon after leavmg Vir- ginia, and finally empty into the Dan. There are many creck.s tributary to the rivers already enumerated, a few of the principal of which shall be given. First those which empiy into Dan. This stream receives before it descends the mountain, Ivy Creek; as large as itself: after it descends the mountain, it receives a number of small streams not Avorthy of notice; — near where it crosses into North Carolina, it receives Archi/s creek from the S. W. and soon after crossing the lino it receives little Dan from the N. which also rises in Patrick. The Ararat receives after it descends the mountain. Doe run and John- son^s creek, from the N. and Clark^s creek from the S. Smith's river re- ceives Rork Castle creek. Widgeon creek, and several other smaller ones from the N. and Sycamore and Goblin Toicn creek, from the S. The South Mayo receives Spoon creek from the N., and Russelfs creek from the S., besides other smaller ones. The North Mayo receives Mill creek from the the S., and Roger^s creek from the N. There is a great diversity of soil in the county of Patrick. The numerous ■water courses which intersect it in every direction afford more or less bottoni land of good quality, and a large portion of the upland is strong, though often steep and rocky. The soil and climate below the mountain are adapted to the culture of corn, wheat, rye, oats, tobacco and hemp. The land on the top of the mountain before alluded to, as being contiguous to the head of Dan, and designated as the meadows of Dan, is generally fertile, and while the climate is too cold for the successful culture of corn or tobacco, it is admirably adapted to the production of small grain and grass. This body of land is at present included in large surveys, made on speculation, which have not generally come into market; notwithstanding which it is rapidly seitHngand, without doubt, is destined to be the most flourishing part of the county. The ac- cess to it, though somewhat dilHcult on the S. and E., is entirely easy on the N. and W; as the descent of the mountain in those directions, is scarce- ly perceptible. The staple article of produce, on the south side of the Bull mountain is tobacco. On the N. side of that mountain there can scarcely be said to be a staple. The people live independently, mostly within "themselves and generally sell their surplus grain, pork, beef, brau- 258 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. dy, &c. The principal portion of the slave popuhition is on the south side of the county, which may in some measure account for the article pi tobacco henig more raised on that side than on the other. The mountani section of the county is beginning already in some degree to be. and is destined soon to be entirely, a grazing country: admirably calculat- ed for the raising of cattle, horses and hogs.~The tobacco raised m the county is mostly manufactured and sold in the southern and western States^. Immense quantities of this article are annually sent to the States of South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama, and sold at good prices for cash. Nearly every planter who raises tobacco to any extent is a manufacturer; but there are some who make a business of it, and purchase the article m the leaf from their neighbors, without prizing, at a very liberal price. Land is quite cheap compared with land of similar quality farther east- ward, and in consequence there has been for some years back an annual accession of population by immigration from the lower counties. This accession has however been more than counterbalanced in the last two or three years, by the prevalence of the Missouri mania, which has carried many of our best citizens to that State, and which still prevails though in an abated degree. The climate of this county is truly delightful. The bracing air of the mountain, combined with the mild breath of the south, renders the atmos- phere pure and at the same time soft, — and we do not believe there is a healthier climate in the world. For many years in some neighborhoods there was not a physician within twenty miles; (which our correspondent writes,) "you may consider either as the cause or effect of the health of my vicinity, which ever you like." There are no manufactories in the county, except those of tobacco, already referred to; and a forge oAvned by John A. Hairston, Esq. on Goblin Tow7t, creek, on the north side of the Bull mountain, near its eastern extremhy. This forge has been in operation for many years, and the enterprising proprietor, in conjunction with two connections, men of capital as Avell as himself, is now erecting a large fur- nace within a short distance of the forge, which will go into operation during the next fall or winter. The supply of ore is abundant, convenient, and ot the best quality. Iron ore abounds in other parts of the county also. "The scenery presented by the passage of Dan river down the mountain, and into the fiat country, is awful and sublime in the highest degree. The river rises in a plain, traverses it for 8 or 10 miles, till it reaches the de- clivity of the mountain, dashes down it by a rapid succession of perpen- dicular falls, and winds its solitary way, unapproached by any footstep save that of the mountain hunter, and hemmed in on every side by im- mense mountains, descending almost perpendicularly to the water edge for the distance of several miles, before its banks afford room for settlements. The Pinnacles of Dan are found in this interval. To approach them you must ascend the mountain at some conA'enient gap — upon reaching the top of the mountain, the country becomes comparatively level. The visiter goes along the top under the guidance of some mountaineer, who knows the locality of the pinnacles; he meets with no obstruction except fallen logs, and a most luxuriant growth of Aveeds, till suddenly he reaches the declivity of the mountain. An immense basin presents itself to his view, surrounded by lofty mountains, almost perpendicular, of Avhich the ridge on which he stands forms a boundary. The depth of the basin is beyond his view and appears to him to be incalculable. From EASTERN VIRGINIA— PATRICK. 2r,9 the midst of the basin two pinnacles, in the shape of a sugar loaf, rise to a level with the surrounding mountains, and of course with the beholder. They appear to be masses of rock rudely piled on each other, with barely soil enough in the crevices to nourish a few bushes. There is no visible outlet to the basin, the narrow chasm through which the river makes its escape being out of view. If the visiter Avishes to ascend the main pin- riacle, (one being much larger than the other,) he descends from his sta- tion, the face of the mountain which is very steep, to a distance which he imagines sutficient to carry him down the highest mountain, — when he reaches a narrow ridge or pass-way not more than thirty feet Avide, con- necting at the distance of thirty or forty yards, the pinnacle to the main mountain, — and to his astonishment the river appears at an incalculable distance below him. The ascent of the pinnacle then commences and an arduous and somewhat perilous one it is. A narrow pathway winds up among the rocks, and in many places, the adventurous climber has to pull himself up a perpendicular ascent of five or six feet by the bushes. When he reaches the top, however, he is amply repaid for his labor in ascending. The prospect, though necessarily a limited one, is picturesque and sublime in a high degree. The view of the basin is then complete. The moun- tains surrounding it nearly of an uniform height; no outlet visible and the beholder perched upon the summit of an immense natural pyramid in the centre. The river is seen occasionally as it winds around the base of the pinnacle. It attempts to pass on the west side where the narrow ridge by which the visiter approaches arrests its course; it then winds entirely round the pinnacle close to its base until it comes to the opposite or southern side of the narrow ridge, passing between the two pinnacles: it then passes round the western and southern side of the smaller pinnacle, and makes its escape as it best can from its apparently hopeless imprisonment. The summit of the pinnacle is about twenty or thirty feet square, — and strange to relate, small bushes of the aspin grow upon it — which is found no where else growing wild in this section of country. The echo produced is somewhat remarkable. If a gun be fired oft' on the top of the pinnacle, you hear nothing for several seconds, when suddenly in the direction of the narrow pass through which the river flows, a rushing sound is heard, Avhich although not a correct echo, seems to be the sound of the report escaping through the pass."* "The other natural curiosity to which reference has been made is "the Bursted rock," which is not very far from the Pinnacles, and forms a part of the frowning and sublime scenery which overhangs the Dan, in its passage through the mountain. You approach it as you do the pinnacle along the level top of the mountain, till suddenly your course is arrested by a perpendicular descent of many hundred feet. The face of the pre- cipice is a smooth rock. Far below every thing appears in ruins rocks piled on rocks, — the timber swept from the earth; and every appearance indicates that a considerable portion of the mountain has been, by some great convulsion of nature, riven and torn from the rest and precipitated into the valley, or rather chasm below. ♦ I have given you this imperfect description of this pinnacle of Dan from my own personal view and experience, having visited them on the 4th of July .some years ai^'o in company with several friends, and fired a salute from the top of the main pinnacle. I can therefore vouch for its fidelity, if I cannot recommend it for its clearness or beauty. '^60 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PITTSYLVANIA. Population in 1810, 4,695,— 1820, 5,089—1830, 7,395. Patrick be- longs to the tenth judicial circuit and fifth district. Taxes paid in 1833, $816 40— in 1834 on land, $441 77— 980 slaves, $245 00— 1629 horses, $97 74_7 studs, $52 00—3 coaches, $8 80—3 carryalls, $3 00—2 gigs, $1 00. Total, $849 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $281 92— in 1833, $203 89. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Arrarat, P. O. 282 ms. from R. and 358 S. W. by W. from W. Penn's, p. O. in the eastern part of the county, 17 miles N. E. of Ta7/lorsrille,22i ms. from R. and 316 S. W. of W. TAYLORSVILLE, or Patrick C. H. P. O. — situated on Mayo river, 90 ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 35 S. of Christiansburg, 241 S. W. by W. of R. and 333. S. W. of W. in N. lat. 36" 38' and long. 3° 14' W. of W. C. It contains besides the usiial county buildings, 40 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, a tan- yard, saddler, tailor, manufacturing flour mill, and 2 tobacco factories. County Cmirts are held on the Thursday after the 2d Monday in every month; — Quarterly in March, June, Avg-ust and November. Judge Saunders holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 21 of Ajrril and Scj^timber. P ITTS'YL. V ANT A. Pittsylvania was established by the Legislature in 1767, and formed from a portion of Halifax. It is bounded on the N. by the Staunton river, Avhieh .separates it from Bedford and Campbell, — E. by Halifax, — S. by Caswell and Rockingham counties of North Carolina, — W. by Henry and Franklin. Its mean length is 35| miles, breadth 25^ ; audits area 891 .sq. miles, It extends in lat. from 36° to 37° 05', and in long, from 2° 12' to 2° 35' W. of W. C. This county is watered by Staunton river on the N., Dan on the S. and Banister in the centre. Much of the soil is ex- cellent, and large crops of tobacco are produced. Population in 1810, 17,172; 1820,21,313; 1830,26,034. It belongs to the tenth judicial cir- cuit, and fifth district. Tax paid in 1833, $5089 04— in 1834 on lots, $167 21— on land, $2794 18—5905 slaves, $1476 25—5458 liorses, $327 48— 25 studs, $286 50— 53 coaches, $136 75— 35 carryalls $38 50 —62 gigs, $38 95. Total, $5265 82. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 18C2, $830 62, in 1833, $913 88. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c. Berger's Store, P. O. 164 ms. S. W. by AV. of R. and 242 from W. Caeland's P. O. 179 ms. S. W. of R. and 271 from W^. Chesnut Grove, P O. in the southern part of the county, 180 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 272 from W. situated 13 ms. S. of Compeli(ion,ih.c seat of justice. It contains 7 dwel- ling houses, a general mercantile store, and a grocery, Methodist house of worship, tobacco factory, tailor, boot and shoe maker, cabinet maker, and a blacksmith shop. The situa- tion is healthy, the soil of the sur- rounding country productive, and EASTERN VlRCaNlA— PI'JTSYLVANIA. 2G1 principal!}' adapted to the cultivation of tobacco, Indian corn, rye, oats, &:c. Population 30 persons, of whom 1 is a physician. Crafton, p. O. 156 ms. S. W. by W. of R.. and 236 S. S. W. of W. It contains 7 dwelling houses, 2 ta- verns, 2 blacksmith shops, a tailor, and boot and shoe maker. Popula- tion 28. Chalk Level, P. (). 109 ms. S. W. of R. and 247 from W. COMPETITION, P. V. and stat of justice, is situated near the centre of the county, on a branch of Banis- ter river, 1 67 ms. S. W by W. of R. and 259 S. W. of W. in lat. 36° 50' and long. 2° 20' W. of W. C. Be- sides the ordinary county buildings, it contains 125 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 house of public worship, (Methodist,) and 2 common schools. The mechanics are, 1 watch maker and silversmith, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, 2 blacksmiths, 1 wheelwright, 2 tan- ners, and several saddlers in the vi- cinity. This town is rapidly improv- ing. Several large and handsome brick buildings have lately been erec- ted. The situation is considered healthy. The land of the surround- ing country is fertile, producing well all the common staples — Indian corn, wheat, tobacco, &c. Population 200 persons, of whom 3 are attorneys, and 2 practising physicians. Countii Courts GE LejcM holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the t^f/i of April and Septem' her. Prospect, P. O. 80 ms. S. S. W. of R. and 171 ms. from W. Saxry River Church, P. O. in the S. E. part of the county, 79 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 170 ms. from VV. This place takes its name from a small -tributary of the Appomattox, It Avas built in Ihe year 1768 by the church of England. Since the revo- lutioti, it has beejj kept up by the citi^ zens of the neighborhood of all de- nominations. In the immediate vi' cinity of the church, there is a house of entertainment, a mercantile store, several mechanics, and 1 physician. The land of the surrounding country is generally good ; the principal pro- duct is tobacco; and the neighborhood is wealthy. Walker's Chitrch, P. O. in the southern part of the county, 88 ms. S. W, hy W. of R. and 177 from W. PRINCE GEORGE. Prixce George was created by the Legislature in 1702, and formed from a part of Charles City Co. It is bounded on the N. by the Appomattox which separates it from Chesterfield, and James river which separates it from Charles City, — E. by Surry, — S. by Sussex, — and W. by Dinwiddie. Its length from E. to W. is 21 ms. breadth 12, and area 312 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37° to 37° 15' N. and in long, from 0° 5' E. of W. C. 970 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE GEORGE. to 0° 25' W. of "W. C. Very little of this county sloyes towards its border near the Appomattox and James, by far the greater portion slopes S. E. towards Blackwater river, tiie sources of which lie in this county. Population in 18-20, 8,030— in 1830, 8,367. This county belongs to the 2nd judicial circuit, and 1st di.slrict. Tax paid in 1833, 61,868 85 — in 1834, on lots, $80 79— on land, $916 53—2,478 slaves, §619 50— 1,177 horses, $70 74—3 studs, $46 00—49 coaches, $133 80-20 carry- alls, $20 00—96 gigs, 854 15— Total, $1,941 49. Expended in educat- ing poor children in 1832, $137 SO— in 1833, $205 16. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. CITY POINT, Port nnd Posti reflect credit, on the enterprize of Vir Village, on the right shore cl James river, at the junction of the James and Appomattox, in the N. W. part of the county, 12 ms. below Pe- tersburg, 34 ms. S. E. oi R. and 156 ms. from W. City Point of itself, is a very inconsiderable village, being a place of no trade, except in a small retail way. It is however a conside- rable port, as an appendage of the towns of Petersburg and Richmond. At City Point there are 4 or 5 ginia capitalists and insure to the Old Dominion that commercial impor- tance to which she is so justly entit- led, and which will be so beneficial to every class of the community; but more especially to the farmers, whose products, will meet a ready sale, at such prices, as cannot fail to reward their industry. City Point, contains about 25 houses, 3 taverns, 3 groce^ ^ries, a school and hospital. Prince George is famed for the ivharves, projecting a short distance; manufiicture of her hollow icare, i. e. into the river, within 30 yards of flour barrels,&c , her marshes for soras which is a sufficient depth of water to swim the largest ship that ever floated. "Not only is a large foreign and wild ducks, 6i.c. and her rivers, creeks and mill ponds for fine chub, perch, sturgeon, rock fish, shad, &:c. shipping business done here, but the Population between 90 and 100 per white sails of domestic commerce, I sons; of whom 1 is a physician. daily gladden the eye, as it pas.sesj PRINCE GEORGEC. H. is sit- and repasses this port, freighted in itsjuated near the centre of the county. progress upwards with the wealth j County Courts are held on the 9.(1 and productions, and exports of every clime, while its return carries to eve- ry port of our happy Union, the pro- duce of our soil and of our mines.' Exclusive of the ordinary shipping, there are steam, freight, tow and pas- sagcboats, which make this a stopping place in their passage up and dowr Tuesday in every month : — Quarter- ly in March, May, August and No- vember. JuDGF. May, holds his Circuit Su- perior Court of Law and Chancery on the 25 .'.4 of May and October. Templetox, p." O. 36 ms. S. W. .of R. and 15S ms. from Vv""., situated the river. In short City Point, 'immediately, on the post road, which though small in itself is a considera-| leads from Petersburg, to Jerusalem, ble out port to the City of Richmond,^ in Southampton Co. 15 ms. from the and the town of Petersburg, and when former, and 35 ms. from the latter, the Petersburg Rail road, and thej There is an ordinary kept here which James and Kanawha improvement' h.is been in existence for 30 years. shall be in full operation, it is morel The situation is high and salubrious, than probable that this little village, remote from any ^vater course, or will present an appearance that will mav.shy laiid. EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCESS ANNE. PRINCESS AKNE. 271 P!UNci;.-:s Anne wiiscreated hy the legislature in IGOI.and formed from a portion of lowiT Norfolk county. It i.s bounded on the N. hj- the Chcs- ajieak, E. by the Atlantic, S. by Currituck Co. N. Carolina, and W. by Norfolk county. Its length from S. to N. is 30 in.s. ; mean breadth 12, and area 3G0 .scjuare miles. The parallel of N. lat. 36*^ 45' and long. 1^ E. oi W. C intersect near the centre of the county. The northern part of this county, slopes N. and pours its waters into Lyn Haven bay, — the Avesterii part, into the eastern branch of Elizaheth river, — the southern part into Back Bay, and Currituck Sound. Population in 1810, 9,498,-1820, 8,730— in 1830,9,102. This coun- ty belongs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, $^1846 85— in 1834 on lots, $16 63— on land, $1 1 15 45—1744 slaves, $436 00— 1757 horses, $105 42— 6 studs, $83 00— 17 coaches, $38 25— 16 carryalls, S17 25—154 gigs, $95 50. Tot;-.!, $1907 50. Expende4 in educating poor children in 1832, $267 94 — in 1833, $115 03. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Kempsville, p. v. 10 ms. S. E. by E. of Norfolk. 124 from R. and 227 from W. situated on the eastern branch of Elizabeth river, at the head of tide water. It contains 27 dwel- ling houses, 1 miscellaneous store, and several groceries, 1 Baptist house of worship, and 1 common school. The mechanics are a tanner and cur- rier, several carpenters, wheelwrights, blacksmiths, 6cc. Large quantities of lumber are sent in rafts and light- ers, from this place to Norfolk ; also much navy-timber, staves, wood, &;c. Population 200 persons; of whom 3 are physicians. London Bridgk, P. O. in the northeastern part of the county, 15 ms. N. E. of Norfolk, 8 S. VV. of Cape Henry, 130 from R. and 233 from W. PRINCESS ANNE C. H. P. V, 137 ms. from R. and 240 from W. in lat. 36° 44, N. and long 0° 57' E. of W. C. It contains, besides the usual county buildings, 17 dwelling houses, 2 Methodist houses of public wor- ship, 2 elementary schools, 1 miscel- laneous store, several carpenters, and various other mechanics. The prin- cipal pursuit of the inhabitants is farming. Population 150 persons; of whom I is an attorney, and 2 arc physicians. Count J/ Courts are held on the 1a'/ Monday in every month. Quar- le.rly in March, June, August and November. Judge Baker holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- |ry on the 25^A Mau and 22rf Scp- \tcmbcr. PltI3,X'E WILLIAM. Printe William was established by the Legislature in 1730, and formed from a portion of Stafford and King George counties. It is bound- ed N. and N. E. by Bull Run, and Occoquan river, which separate it from Loudovm and Fairfax, — E. by the Potomac, separating it from Charles county Maryland, — S. by Stafford, — S. W. and W. by Fauquier. Its mean length is 30| miles, mean breadth 12; and its area 370 square miles. It 272 EASTERN VIUGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. extends in lat. from 38° 30' to 38° 55' N. and in long, frotti 0° 15' to 0^ 45' W. of W. C. Occoqnaii rieef tises in Loudoun, Fairfox, and Fauquier counties; traverses and drains the upper part of Prince William. It is an impo?- tant tributary of the Potomac, and falls into that river 25 ms. below W. C. and nearly opposite to Indian Point. Its principal branches are Bull Run, Broad Run and Cedar Run. Bull Run from its source to its mouth, is the divitiing line between the counties of Fairfax and Prince William. It joins the Occoquan about 7 miles above the town of Occoquan, and H miles from the Potomac river. Broad Ruyi has its source in Fauquier coumy, arid after passing through the chain of the Bull Run mountain, at the pass of Thoroughfare, and by the to'wn of Buckland, joins the Cedar Run about a mile below BrentSville, the coxint-y town of Prince William. Cedar Run rises in Fauquier county, and passing near Warrenton, joiris Broad Run near Brentsville. These streams, and mdeed tnany of their branches, afford tine seats for mandfacturing establishments. At the junction of Broad and Cedar, the river receives the name of Occoquan. Its general direction towards the Potomac is S. E. — and its length about 25 ms. At 1 8 rris. from the junction it meets, the tides at the town of Oc- coquan. Here it reaches the hills, which are the boundary of the Poto- mac valley, and down thern the river is precipitated about 72 feet, in the distance of or* > and a half miles. In these hills is the chain of I'ocliS which crosses all the rivers of Lower Virginia at- the head of tide water. The action of the water in the course of ages, has washed fh6 earth from the channel, and the rocks lie in its bed in every rude variety of position. The banks of the river here present every where jutting rOcks, and some- times great precipices. The pine finds sustenance among the crevices and gives a relief and a grace to scener}^ that would otherwise be savage. Immediately below the to\tn of Occoquan the banks subside into a plain; and at two miles, the ancient town of Colchester is passed. Five miles below Colchester a junction is effected with the Potomac, between High and Freestone Points. At its mouth the Occoquan is five miles wide; at the head of the tide, it is aboul 75 yards; hefe however it is hemmed in by the hills, and as tl>e volume of its waters is very great, in floods it is very deep, (viz, from 12 to 20 feet.) Belovy the town of Colchester it suddenly widens to two or three miles. The earth and rubbish brought down by the floods are deposited, and at such times the navigation is ob- structed for vessels drawing more than 5 feet water. There is however nothing which opposes serious obstacles to clearing the bar, whenever the wants of the people inhabiting the countrj'^ drained by it.s waters shall re- quire it. The subject has already attracted some attention, and the navi- gation of the river and its important branch Cedar run, which it has been proposed to effect, above the tide by the lock and dam system, has been the occasion of some pfoceedinszs in the legislature. Population in 1810, 11,311 — 1820,0,419—1830, 9,320. Prince Wil- liam belongs to the sixth judicial circuit and third district. Tax paid in 1833, $2697 07— in 1834 on lots, $183 15— on land, 1772 65—1737 slaves, $434 25—2383 horses, $142 98—5 studs, $48 00—27 coaches, $59 50—15 carryalls, $15 00—16 gigs, $12 95. Total, $2668 48. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $500 18 — in 1833, $565 32. EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 273 TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. BRENTSVILLE. P. V, and seat of justice, 104 ms. from R. and 48 S. W. of W.— The Court House, clerk's office and jail are handsomely situated on the main street, in a pub-,' lie square of three acres, Besides^ them, the village contains 19 dvvel-j ling houses, 3 miscellaneous stores 2 1 handsome taverns, built of brick andj stuccoed, 1 house of entertainment, 1 ! house of public worship, free for all denominations, — a bible society, a Sunday school, a temperance and a I tract society, which have been of con- j siderable utility for the last 5 or 6 years. There is in the vicinity a common school in which the rudi-l ments of English education are taught, j Brentsville is of recent establish- i ment, having been located around thej site of the new court house in 1822,1 at which time it was completed, and the courts removed from Dumfries. It has progressed with its improve- ments perhaps more rapidly than has been observable with other county towns within the same period after their establishment, though it may be considered nearly stationary for the present. The wasteful tenure of the Bristoe estate, the property of the commonwealth, in the midst of which it is located, has in a manner cut it off from the benefits of a thriving neighborhood. This tract, contain- ing near 7000 acres and naturally the best land in this section, has been ravaged of all its timber, and for the most part "ploughed down to be bar- ren," by an unmerciful course of cultivation, under a numerous tenan- try, for upwards of 70 years. Most of the lots around the place have be- come freed from their lease, by the dl reliction of the tenants, who have left them an immense common: but by an act of Assembly of 1833-4, authorising the sale of this estate on such terms as the president and di- rectors of the Literary Fund may di rect, there is no doubt but the desert will soon be made to blossom under the labors of individual enterprise, and Brentsville will take a new start towards prosperity. Situated at the head of Occoquan river, which could easily be made navigable for boats at a cheap rate, and laying near two large runs, (Broad and Cedar,) which here form the Occoquan. Brents- ville is 14 miles from Dumfries, 18 from Occoquan mills, and equidistant 33 ms. from Fredericksburg and Alexandria, 12 from Hay Market, and 20 from W&rrenton. it is within 9 or 10 ms. of the Warrenton and Alexandria turnpike Population 130 persons, of whom 3 are attorneys and 3 regular physicians. The place is healthy and has a beautiful prospect of the Bull Run and Watery range of mountains, and the more di^ta^t Blue Ridge. County Courts are held on the \st Mo?idai/, in every month: — Quar- terly in March, June, August and November. Judge Scott holds bis Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the l5^ of May, and October. Buckla:>d, P. V. in the north- western part of the county, 5 ms. S. W. of Hay Market, 116 from R. and 42 from W. This village has an elevated and romantic situation on Broad Run, a never failing stream, on which two extensive flour manu- facturing mills are situated, — the one in the tov/n and the other en its edge. A turnpike runs through the village which extends 35 ms. below to Alex* dria, and 8 ms. above to Warrenton. This village and its subuibs contains 22 dwelling houses, 1 general store, 1 large and extensive diatillery, I apothecary shop, 1 house of public worship ^ree for all denominations, and 2 houses of entertainment. The mechanics are, 1 tanner and cur- rier, 1 wagon maker. 1 boot and shoo 274 EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM Tnanufaclurcr, I cooper, 1 hatter, 1 inillvvright, I blacksmith, 1 tailor and saddler. Buckland is an incorpora- ted town, and for beauty of situation and circumjacent scenery is perhaps not to be surpassed by any other in the county. There is one well or- ganized siuiday school, and 1 com- mon school. Population 130 whites; of whom 1 is a physician; and 50 blacks. Dumfries, P. V. 33 ms. S. S. W. of W. and 89 from R., situated on tluantico creek, near the Potomac river. It contains SO dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, a Baptist and a Methodist house of worship, 1 school Jiouse, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing Hour mill, 1 woollen manufactory, 1 temperance society, a tanyard, 2 sad- dlers, 5 house carpenters, and 2 black- smith shops. During the freeze in the winter when the steam boat be- tween the city of Washington and Potomac creek is obstructed by ice, llie great northern and southern mail from W. C. to New Orleans, is car- ried through this town. The road in its neighborhood between Fredericks- burg and Alexandria, is in a worse condition than perhaps any in the middle States, so utterly impassable at times that the mail cannot travel This road being the principal source of the irregularities of the mail at the south, a canal was undertaken, and about three-eighths of a mile completed, but the whole scheme failed for the want of tbe proper di rection of the funds. The mouth of Q,uantico, 2;j miles from Dumfries, is the best winter harbor on the Poto- mac. The river seldom freezes low- er than that point Dumlries is one of the oldest towns in the LTnited States, and once could boast of much commerce, but owing lo a variety of circumstances, like many old settlements, it is noAV in a great measure abandoned, and many 500 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- ney and 2 are regular physicians. Hay Market, P. O. situated in the northern part of the county on the head of Occoquan creek, 120 ms, from R. and 43 from W. Liberia, P. V. 112 ms. from R. and 33 S. W. of W. C. It contains a store, ware house and blacksmith shop, and a little distance from these under the same name, 7 other build- ings. This place was established in 1825, and the post-ofiice in 1829. It is 7 ms. distant from Brentsville, in a N. E. direction. A mail goes once a week from this place to Centreville 5 ms. N. of it, at which place it inter- sects the S. W. mail from W. C. The trade of the place is in dry goods and groceries, and the pur- chase of country produce. The country around is thickly settled, and the inhabitants are distinguished for their moral deportment. The land of the surrounding country was of universally good quality, but has been much abused by a system of misera- ble cultivation; it is yet susceptible of a high degree of improvement, by the use of clover and gypsum, of which many farmers have commenced the use. Occoquan, P. V. 23 ms. S. W. of W. and 99 from R., situated in the N. E. part of the county on the south side of Occoquan river. It was es- tablished by act of Assembly in the year 1804. The site on AAhich this town is situated is extremely rugged and ill-suited for building. The town is regularly laid out, the streets generally cross each other at right angles. It contains about 50 dwel- ling houses, several mercantile stores, and various mechanics, — a cotton manufactory in complete operation, and one of the first established in the State, now running 1000 spindles, 1 extensive manufacturing flour mill, grinding in the ordinary season 150 of its excellent dwellings are in a| barrels per day, — with the necessary state of rapid decay. Population (appendages of grist, saw, and plaster EASTERN VIRGINIA— PRINCE WILLIAM. 27i mills. A handsome and permanent bridge is erected across the river at this place; over the bridge and thro' the town runs the great mail route from Washington to the south. This village is in a flourishing condition, and with confidence looks forward to further improvement. 'IMie principal trade of the town is with the counties of Fairfax, Loudoun, Fauquier, and Stafford. The Occoquan at this place has a full of 72 feet in 1^ ms. affording excellent sites for manufac- tories. This is the market for many of the most important shad and her- ring fisheries on the Potomac. The scenery at and near Occoquan has frequently been the theme of praise. The traveller moving along the plains of lower Virginia, his eye accustom- ed to the tame prospect of the alluvial country, suddenly finds himself in a ravine, descending a hill, the precipi- tous ridges of which inspire him with terror. Should curiosity prompt him to tarry the rest of the day amidst this wild scene, the sacrifice will be amply repaid. — The botany of this neighborhood is very rich ; here are in close proximity plants of the mountain and of the marshes. The mosses are numerous and beautiful. In the marshes, near the mouth ofi the river, are many interesting plants. In the river in this vicinit^r there is a quarry of valuable whetstones, a bank impregnated with alum, and a cave which has never been satisfactorilj- explored. Thoroughfare, P. V. 47 ms. S. W. of W. and 124 from R., situated near the western boundary of the county, 9 ms. N. E. of Warrenton: with a turnpike to Ale.xandria 36 ms. distant. It lies immediately un- der the Bull Run mountain, Avhich runs N. and S. and takes its name from a small stream which passes through it. About 3 miles N. of this place Broad Run, one of the best streams in this section of country for .size and con.stanov, passes through the same mountain. Upon this .stream there ai"e 2 manufacturing flour mills, running 3 pair of buhrs, and which jointly manufacture from 20 to 30,000 bushels of wheat annu- ally; the water of these mills has a fall of from 22 to 24 feet in the dis- tance of half a mile. About 600 yard.s below the I'horoughfare, there is an advantageous position for a manufactory, with a fall of water of 22 feet. At this place are located 12 dwelling houses, and 1 mercantile store. Baoad Run is composed of two streams which unite a short dis- tance above the mountain, each hav- ing pursued their respective courses through a rich and mountainous re- gion for many miles; at the base of the mountain they unite, and rush to- gether Avitli great velocity over a rocky bed: bearing a striking resem- blance to the scene presented by the mountains, rivers, &c., at Harper's Ferry, on a smaller scale. The land lying immediately above the mountains is rich, and contains a dense population, bearing a strong evidence that it was once inundated, from a like cause as at Harper's Fer- ry. The western side of the moun- tain presents an abrupt precipice of granite rock, while the trees grow to the summit. On the east in the gap of the mountain, the rocks lie scat- terred in wild confusion, evidentlj' thrown out by some great concussion of nature. Near the gap is a spring issuing from under a great rock, of the p'.irest and best water, which is not increased or diminished in any season. It stands on the road side, and is by travellers regarded as the "Diamond Spring, in Palestine." There are some indications of coal and iron, but neither has as yet been discovered. The mountains on the east side present a most romantic and beautiful view of the rapid and roaring current winding its way through a-feviile valley. 276 EASTERN VIRGINIA— RAPPAHANNOCK. RAPPAHANNOCK. Rappahannock was created by the Legislature in 1831, and formed out of a portion of Culpeper county. It is bounded on the N. by the North Fork of the Rappahannock river, which separates it from Fauquier, — E. by Culpeper, — S. by Madison, — and W. by the Blue Ridge, which sepa- rates it from Shenandoah. It extends in fat. from about 38° 3' to 38° 22' N. and in long, from about 0° 5' to 1° 15' W. of W. C. Its precise di- mensions in miles, we are unacquainted with. Its population also, being included with that of Culpeper at the last census, is unknown. Rappahannock belongs to the 11th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1851 06— in 1834, on lots, 846 72— on land, $1096 83-- 1853 slaves. $464 50—2743 horses, $164 58—10 studs, $81 00— J 3 coaches, 833 00— 6 carryalls, S6 00— 9 gigs, $5 50. Total, $1898 13, No report from school commissioners TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Flint Hill, P. O. 128 ms. from R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- lage contains 26 dwelling houses, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 manu- facturing flour mill, 1 house of pub- lic worship, free for all denomina- tions, 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, with va- rious other mechanics Population 140 persons; of whom 1 is an attor- ney, and 2 practising physicians. Gaines' Cross Roads, P. O. 87 ms. S. W. of W. and 124 N. N. W. of R. It contains 9 dwelling houses, 1 general store, 1 tailor, and 1 black- smith shop, and 1 Baptist house of worship. The surrounding country is fertile, well cultivated and densely settled. Newsy's Cross Roads, P. O. 109 ms. from R. and 70 N. W. by W. of W. It contains several dwelling houses, and 2 mercantile stores. Population 30. There are within the circumference ol 6 miles ten country and flour manufacturing mills, several tanyards, &c. The country around is thickly settled and fertile, producing well all the com- mon staples of the country. Sandy Hook, P. O. 134 ms. from R. and 85 from W., situated 3 ms. S. of Chester C4ap, and one-fourth of a mile N. of Flint Hill in Wakefield Manor, on the road leading from Washington, the seat of justice, ta Front Royal, in Frederick county, 9 ms. from the former and 10 from the latter. The land adjoining Sandy Hook is fertile and productive, about 8000 acres of it is in the possession of Bazil Gordon, of Falmouth, Va. Sandy Hook has 4 dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 blacksmith, 1 wheelwright, and 1 boot and shoe maker. Population 33: of whom 1 is a physician. Slate Mills, P. O. 109 ms. from R. and 91 S. W. of W. This vil- lage contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 general store, 1 manufacturing flour mill, a grist and saw mill, 2 black- smiths, a wheelwright, and a cooper hop. WASHINGTON, P. V. and seat of justice, 118 ms. from R. and 81 S. W. of W. C. It is situated at the southeastern foot of the Blue Ridge, in a fertile country, upon one of the head branches of Rappahannock river, (called Bnsh river,) and recent- ly chosen as the seat of justice for the county. It was formerly a P. O. in Culpeper Co.) It contains besides the usual county buildings, (lately erected,) 1 academy, 55 dwelling hotises, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 house of public worship, free for all denominations. The principal EASTERN VIRGINIA— RICHMOND. 277 mechanics arc 4 hlacksmiths, 4 car- penters, 2 saddlers, 1 halter, 1 tan- ner, 2 wagon makers, 3 tailors, 4 shoemakers, I cabinet maker, 1 sil- versmith, 3 milliners, I plaisterer and bricklayer. In the vicinity there is a large and highly respectable female seminary, in which are taught all the various branches of English lite- rature, together with the French and Italian languages: and in the imme- diate neighborhood, are 2 large and extensive manufacturing flour mills. This village is rapidly improving, and is in a flourishing and prosper- ous condition, being situated in a thickly settled and enterprising neigh- borhood. Population 350 persons; of whom 4 are attorneys, and 2 regu lar physicians. County Courts are held on the Is/ Mo?tdaj/ in every month. Quarterli/ in March, June, September, and No- vein her. Judge Field holds his Circuit Su- perior Court of Law and Chancery on the '2'2d of April and September. WooDviLLE, P. V. in the western angle of the county, 1 15 ms, N. W. of R. and 97 S. W. by W. of W., situated on the road leading from Thornton's Gap, in the Blue Ridge, to Fredericksburg, 1 1 ms. from the top of the Ridge, and 55 from the latter. It contains 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, I school in which is taught all the main branches of an English education, 30 dwelling houses, 1 tan- yard, 3 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe maker, 1 cabinet maker, 1 carpenter and house joiner, and 1 tailor. Population 200 persons; of whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are regular physicians. RIOHMOXD. Richmond was created by the Legislature in 1692, when the old county of Rappahannock was extinguished and the counties of Essex and Rich- mond made from its territories. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Westmore- land, — E. by Northumberland, — S. by Moratico creek, which separates it from Lancaster, — S. W. and W. by the Rappahannock river, which sepa- rates it from Essex, — and N. W. by Brockenbrough creek, separating it from Westmoreland. Its mean length is 25 miles, breadth 7^; and area 194 sq. miles. It extends in lat. from 37° 47' to 33° 10' N. and in long, from 0° 10' to 0° 30' E. of W. C. Richmond belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. Popu- lation in 1820, 5,706~in 1830, 6,055. Tax paid in 1833, 81158 67— in 1834,— on land, $679 02—1281 slaves, 8320 25—686 horses, 841 16— 4 stud.s, $40 00—16 coaches, 840 40—9 carryalls, 89 00—78 gigs, $47 25. Total, 81177 08. Expended in educating poor children in 1833, 8167 51— no report for 1832. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Harn-h.vm, p. O. 66 ms. N.E. of R. and 128 from W. Lyei-l's Store. P. O. 60 ms. from R. and 122 S. S. E. of W. RICHMOND C. H. P. V. 56 ms. W. C. This village, besides the usual county buildings, court house, clerk's office and jail, contains 9 pri- vate dwelling houses, 2 general stores, I house of public worship, (Episco- from R. and 118 S. E. of W., in lat. Jpalian,) 1/female hoarding school, in 37° 55' N. and long. 0^ 18' E. ofjwhich are taught the necessary 278 EASTERN VIRGINIA— SOUTHAMPTON. branches of polite education, and 1 neighborhood. Population 100 per- primary school for boys, 2 boot and! sons: of whom 4 are attorneys, and shoe factories, I saddler, and 2 houses jl a physician. Covnty Courts are lield on the \st Monday in every month. Quarterly in March, May, August and Novem- ber. Judge Lomax holds his Circuit of public entertainment. Tlie near est navigable waters are two branches of the Rappahannock river, each 3 ms. distant, one the Toteskey, the other Rappahannock creek. The situation of this place is elevated andjSuperior Court of Law and Chance- healthy, and the vicinity in a highiry on the I'-ith of April and Sth of state of improvement. Indian corn, Ortober. and wheat are the staple crops of the ' SOUTIIxl MFTON. Southampton was created l)y act of Assembly in 1748, and formed out of a part of Isle of Wight county. It is bounded N. W. by Sussex, — Surry N. — Blackwater river, separating it from the Isle of Wight, N. E. — Nansemond E., — Hertford and Northampton counties, N. Carolina, S. — and Meherrin river, separating it from Greensville, S. W. Its length is 40 miles, mean width 15; and area 600 square miles. The parallel of N. lat. 36*-^ 40', and the meridian of W. C. intersect in this county. Its slope is southeastward, and in that direction it is traversed by Nottoway river. The soil of this county is light and but little broken and well adapted to the cultivation of Indian corn, cotton, benns and potatoes, of which the two first are the principal commodities 'J'he husbandry is generally good. — It abounds in the finest of pine timber, from which is made for exporta- tion tar and turpentine. Nottoway river runs from N. W. to S. E., and by its junction with the Black water river forms the Chowan. It is naviga- ble for vessels of GO or 70 tons, as far as Monroe, from which place con- siderable quantities of lumber and other produce are shipped to Norfolk. Its length is about 120 miles. — Blackwater river takes its rise in Prince George county, and running in a southwardly direction, unites with the Nottoway. It is navigable for vessels of the largest size as far as South Quay in Nansemond county, and for small vessels for some miles higher up into the county of Southampton. In the low grounds bordering upon Nottoway and Blackwater rivers, the growth is chiefly oak and cypress of the finest quality, which must at no distant period be of great value. — The Portsmouth and Roanoke rail road passing through the county, and con- sequently crossing each of these rivers, will afford the greatest facilitj'^ in conveying produce to market. — The prevailing religious denominations in this county are the Methodist and Baptist. They each have numerous houses of public worship in convenient parts of the county. Population in 1820, 14,170 — in 1830, 16,074. Southampton belongs to the first judicial circuit and first district. Tax paid in 1833, S3 136 33 — in 1834.— On lots, $31 28— on land, $1470 03—3835 slaves, $958 75— 2661 horses, $1.59 66—14 studs, $166 00—51 coaches, $125 00—24 car- ryalls, $24 00—277 gigs, $161 55. Total, $3096 28. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $515 45— in 1833, $507 SI, KASTERN VUlUlNlA-Sl'OTTSYLVANlA. 270 TOWNS, VILLAGES, POS T OFFICES, &c. t>r.Tni.KHEM Cross RoAns, P. O. Dl ms. from II. and 213 from W. BowKKs', P.O. 91 ms. S. E. of R. and 213 from W. siluatod in the southern part of the count v. Farm Tavern, P. O/OO ms. S. S. E. of R. and 210 S. of W. JERUSALEM, P. V. and seal of Justice. 81 ms. S. S. E. of R. and 203 from W. in lat. 36'^ 42' and long. 0^ 3' W. of W. This village is situa- ted on Nottoway river, and contains besides the ordinary county buildings, about 25 dwelling houses, 4 mercan- tile stores, 1 saddler, 1 carriage maker, 2 hotels, 1 masonic hall, and 2 houses of public entertainment. This town has been stationary for 20 years, hav- ing neither retrograded or advanced. Population 175 persons; of whom 4 are resident attorneys, and 4 regular physicians. Counfi/ Courts arc held on the Zd Mondai/ in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No' vember. JuDGK Baker holds liis Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the \st of June and 29//i of Octo- ber. Ukqtihart'p Stoke, P. O. 79 ms. S. E. of R. and 201 from W. SPOTTSYL.VAN1 A. Sfott.svlvam.a, was created by the legislature in 1720, and formed out of portions of Essex, King William arrcVKing & Queen counties. It is bounded on the N. by the Rappahannock river which separates it from Culpeper and Stafford, on the E. by Caroline, on the S. by Caroline, Han- over and Louisa, and on the W. by Orange. It is situated between 37° 59' and 38° 20' N. and between 20° 30' and 57° 30' W. from W. This coun- ty contains exclusive of Fredericksburg, 11,826 inhabitants. The soil of Spottsylvania is various, that near the rivers and smaller streams is very line; but it is far otherwise on the ridges; for a wretched system of cultiva- tion adopted by the first settlers and long persisted in by their descendants, has reduced the land, originally thin, to a condition from which it will re- quire much time and labor to rescue it. The gold mines of this county having excited some interest, it may not be out of place here to say something of them. Abo\it seven j-ears ago two brothers of the name of White, discovered some small pieces of gold on their farm, this naturally excited them to look further; when it was disco- vered that after every rain numerous particles of various sizes became visi- ble. This was a sufficient hint to others. The most energetic, but misdi- rected zeal covered the country with explorers, having the least possible knowledge of the matter in hand. ThV}- might be seen hurrying hither and thither with a spade and tin pan, now stooping to lift a stone — now stooping to wound the bosom of their mother earth, and perhaps add another pound to the already cumbrous load of "indications" at their back. It Avas marvellous to see how they mutilated and distorted terms of science. The classic heathen were not more familiar with their household gods, than were these children of mamon Avith what they were pleased to call 'fridigi- nous quartz and '' oxinginized iro7i." A little cube of sulphuret of iron found on a man's farm, would elevate liis hopes to the highest pitch of ex- citement: and if anyone told him that it was not gold, lie incontinently sus- S^af EASTERN- -VIRC4IIiIA— SPOTITS Y.i.y.±:NlA. pected him of a design to purchase the land. Gold, however, was found in considerable quantities, and that sort of stock rose to an excessive price^ which of necessity produced a correspondent reaction, and the present de- pression is probably as much below the real value, as the former was above it.* Tobacco was formerly planted to the exclusion of almost every thing else ; but within the last 30 years it has gradually given place to wheat and Indian corn. The minerals found in greatest abundance are granite, free stone, quartz and shistus : the two latter being ordinarily the gangue of the gold. The religious sects in the county are exclusive of the town, chiefly Bap- tists, who have 8 meeting houses; and Methodists who have 4 meeting houses. Of stores there are 7; mills 25, some of which are prepared for making flour, but only I is thus employed, and taverns 5. In these last are included only those which have tavern licence. The natural growth of the county is principally oak, and what is here called fox-tail pine, the lat- ter being'found in lands v/hich were formerly exhausted by injudicious cul- tivation, and being neglected have thus clothed themselves. Population 1820, 14,254 — 1830, 15,134. This county belongs to the 5th judicial cir- cuit and 3rd district. Taxes paid in 1833, $4,0G4 10 — in 1834, on lot^, $959 24— on land, $1,534 89—4,250 slaves, 81,062 50—2,478 horses, §148 68—10 studs, $98 00—78 coaches, 8174 00—4 stages, $7 00—39 carrayalls, 839 00—131 gigs, 880 27. Total, 84,103 58. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $402 39— in 1833, 8507 23. Historical Sketch. — The earliest authentic information we have of that portion of our state now called Spot'tsylvania, is found in an act past "at a grand assemblie held at Tames Cittie" between the 20th September 1674, and the 17th March 1675, in v^^hich war is declared against the In- dians ; and amongst other provisions for earring it on, it is ordered that "one hundred and eleven men out of Glocester county be garrisoned at one "ffort," or place of defence at or neare the ffalls of Rapahanack river, of which flbrt Major Lawrence Smith to be captain or chiefe commander;" and that this "ffort" be furnished with " ffour hundred and eighty pounds of powder, ffourteen hundred and fforty three pounds of shott." This "fforl" was built in 1676 as appears by the preamble of a subsequent act. In the year 1679 Major Lawrence Smith upon his own suggestion was empowered, provided he would settle or seate downe at or neare said fort by the last day of March 1681, and have in readiness upon all occasions on beat of drum, fifty able men well armed with sufficient ammunitions, d:c. and two hundred men more within the space of a mile along the river, and a quarter of a mile back from the river, prepared always to march twenty miles in any direction from the fi-.rt ; or should they be obliged to go more than such distance to be paid f^-^- •> time thus employed at the rate of other " souldiers," " to execute martiall discipline" amongst the said fifty " souldiers and others so put in arms" both in times of war and peace : and * There arc two manners of gathering gold practised here — 1st. by waihing the earth for what is called '• surface-gold." This plan is pursued in several places in the county. The earth containing the particles, is thrown into cradles, into which mercury is poured, and a constant stream of water is directed — the amalgum found in the bottom is distilled — 2nd. mining, properly so called, is also carried on at a place on the Rappahannock river aboiU, 20 miles above Fredericksburg, the property of the United Stales Mining Company, incorporated at the labt session of the legislature. EASTERN VIRGINIA— SPOTTSYLVANIA. 281 said Smith with two others of said privileged place to hear and determine all causes civil and criminal, that may arise within said limits, as a county Court might do, and to make bye-laws for the same. These military set- tlers were priviledged from arrest for any debts save those due to the King, and those contracted among themselves — and were free from laxes and le- vies save those laid within their own limits. The exact situation of this fort cannot now be determined with absolute certainty; but as it is known that there was once a military post at Germana, some ruins of which are still occasionally turned up by the plough, it is probable th^t this is the spot selected by Col. Smith for his colony. The earliest notice we have of Spoftsylvania county, as such, is found in 7th Geo. I. 1720, passed at Williamsburg, of which the preamble declares by way of inducement " that the frontiers toward the high mountains are ex- posed to danger from the Indians and ihe late settlements of the French to the westward of the said mountains." Therefore it is enacted that Spott- sylvania county bounds upon Snow creek up to the mill, thence by a S. W. line to the North Anna, thence up the said river as far as convenient, and thence by a line to be run over the high mountains to the river on the N. W. side thereof, so as to include the northern passage through the said mountains, thence down the said river until it comes against the head of Rappahannock, thence by a line to the head of Rappahannock river and down that river to the mouth of Snow creek, which tract of lands from the 1st of May 1721 shall become a county by the name of Spottsylvania Co." The a^t goes on to direct thai " fifteen hundred pounds current money of Virginia shall be paid by the treasurer to the Governor, for these uses, to wit : £000 to be expended in a church, court house, prison, pillory and stocks in said county: £1,000 to be laid out in arms, ammunition, (fee. of which each "Chrisfian tytheable" is to have "one firelock, musket,* one socket, bayonet fired thereto, one cartouch box, eight pounds bullet, and two pound.s powder." The inhabitants were made free of public levies for ten years, and the whole county made one parish by the name of St. George. From the following clause of the same act it is presumed that this new county had been cut off from Essex, King ,E. of R. and 176 ms. from W. some and commodious building just Davis's Tavern, P. O. 50 ms. S. jcompleted, intended for a tavern, 1 E. ofR Littleton, P. O. 66 ms. S. of R, and 188 ms. from W. MiLLBORo' P. O. 55 ms. S. S. E. of R. and 5 ms. S. E. of Sussex C. H. ■ Parham's Store, P. O. 50 ms. S. &. E. of R. and 172 ms. from W. Stoney Creek Warehouse, P. O. 43jms. from R. and 1 65 ms. from W. This P. O. has baen recently moved from Rowanty creek, and is now situ- ated on the Petersburg Hail Road, immediately on the south bank of Rowanty creek, over which the Rail Road passes, by means of a bridge 110 ft. in length, built on the lattice plan of Towns. The warehouse is one of the depots, substantially built with a turn- out station immediately through it. The house is 70 ft by 30. The engine and cars pass thro' when ever necessary, to prevent the obstruction of each other, or loading and unloading, &c. The locomotive engines with their trains of cars and coaches pass and repass daily, with the exception of Sunday, when the train carrying the mail only has the privilege. The United States south- ern mail, together with the small mails for the adjacent post ofllces are carried by these locomotives. The produce of the Roanoke and the in- termediate country are transported by this road with facility, and in great quantity and variety. Five ms. S. of this place, the road passes Nottoway river, by means of a similar bridge of the same length and construction. mercantile store and the houses of several mechanics. In the vicinity are 3 houses of public worship, (2 Methodist and 1 Baptist,) 4 well es- tablished grist and 2 saw mills. This depot is 9 ms. Avest of the C. H. and 3 ms. from the junction of Stoney and Rowanty creeks, with the Nottoway river, — all of which streams afford a moderate supply of shad in their sea- son, and an abundance of small fish at ail times. The lands arc general- ly fertile and well adapted to the cul- ture of Indian corn, wheat, oats and tobacco. The neighboringlow grounds and swamps afford quantities of white oak and pine timbci, from which are manufactured an abundance of pipe and other staves, and sent by the Rail Road, together with other lumber to Petersburg. Judging by the progress of im- provement since the company built this warehouse, it is reasonable to an- ticipate, that at no distant day a thriv- ing and handsome little village will spring up. The neighborhood is supplied with excellent water, and thickly settled with industrious and wealthy farmers. SUSSEX C. H. P. O. 50 ms. S. S. E. of R. and 172 ms. S. W. of W. situated about the centre of the Co. County Courts are held on the \st Thursday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, May, August and Octo- ber. JrDGE May holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery The improvements at Stoney creek, on the 10^/i of May wwi^ October. 288 EASTERN VIRGINIA— WARWICK. WARWICK. Warwick was one of the eight original shires into which Virginia was divided by the legislature in 1634, under the name of Warwick river. It is bounded on the N. by York county, E. by Elizabeth City county, S. by James river which separates it from Isle of Wight, and W. by James City county. Its length diagonally from south east to north west is 18 ms. ; mean width 7^; and area 95 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 03', to 37° 13' north, and in long, from 0° 22', to 0° 38' east of Washington City. It occupies a portion of the narrow peninsula which runs down between York and James rivers, and slopes towards the latter. Population in 1810, 1,835 — in 1820, 1,608—1830, 1,570. It belongs to the third judicial circuit, and second district. Tax paid in 1834, on land, $170 64 — 544 slaves, $136 00—230 horses, $13 80—3 coaches, $8 00—2 carryalls, $2 00— 36 gigs, $20 30. Total, $350 74. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $20 42— in 1833, $57 81. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. WARWICK C. H. P. O. 184 ms.f County Courts are held on the 2d S. E. of W. and 81 ms. S. E. by E. o{\Thurs day in every month; — Quarter- R. Besides the usual county build ings, there are only 2 dwelling houses ; 1 of which is a house of pri- vate entertainment, 1 general store, and I common school. Population 21. ly in March, May, August and No- vember. Judge UpsiixTn holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 29th of A-pril and Sej^t em- ber. WESTMOREI.AND. Westmoreland county is situated on the N. E. frontier of Virginia, and occupies an intermediate space in that range of counties embraced be- tween the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers — commonly designated as the Northern Neck. The first mention which has been found of this county is in an act* of the "Grand Assembly" of July 1653; by which Act, "It is ordered, that the bounds of the county of Westmoreland be as foUoweth, (viz.) from Machoactoke river, Avhere Mr. Cole lives, and so upwards to the falls of the great river Pawtomake, above the Necostin's tovvne." From the lan- guage of this statute it would seem that the county was previously in exis- tence; but it is not ascertained at what time it was taken from the older county of Northumberland (at first called Chicawane or Chickcown) which was established in 1648, and declared by an act of that year to contain the "neck of land between Rapoahannock river and Potomack river, t The large extent which was at first given to Westn.ioreland has been greatly diminished, so that at present it lies between 38° 29' N. lat. and * Henning's Stat, at Large, ,381. t Henning's Stat, at Large, 352. EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTMORELAND. 289 0=^ 30' E. long, from W.; and is bounded on the N. E. by the Potomac river on the N. W. by King George county, — on the S. by the Rap- pahannock and Richmond counties — and on the S. E. by the county of Nor- thumberland. Its length is about 30 miles, and its mean breadth 9^ ms. and is estimated to contain an area of 335 sq. ms. The county is indented by numerous water courses, chiefly tributary to the Potomac. The first in importance is Nominy (ot Nomini) bay, an arm of the Potomac, and extending five miles in lengtnard one in breadth. Its mean depth is 8 feet. It affords a safe harbor for vessels of small bur- den. Into this bay flows Nominy river, which is navigable for vessels of burden for about 7 miles from its mouth, and for boats two miles farther. 1^\\G creeks running into the Potomac are — Monroe's, navigable for vessels and for boats for about 4 miles from its mouth ; Mattox, for ves- sels of burden as far as the bridge about 3 miles, and for boats 3 or 4 ruilea beyond ; Popes creek, navigable about 2 miles for boats only. These creeks are situated in the N. W. part of the county. To the N. E. are found, Ckantilly or Cold Harbor creek, navigable for boats only about one mile ; Lower Machodoc, four miles for vessels and for boats I mile higher. Into Nominy bay empty — Currisman creek, navigable about I mile.— Poor Jack, about 1 mile and a quarter; Smart's, about three-quarters of a mils by boats only. Buck?ier\s creek flows into Nominy river, and may be navigated by small craft for .3 miles, and 1 mile farther by boats; YocO' mica river receives the waters of Gar7ier's, Jackson's and Bomtw's creeks : the first navigable for 2 miles — the second for 1 mile and a quarter, and the last for one and a half miles for boats only. Glebe creek may be here mentioned, flowing into the Potomac midway between Buckner's and Yo« comico, and navigable for vessels of light burden for one or two miles. la the western part of the county Baldwin's and Brockenbrotigh's creeks rua into the Rappahannock. They are believed to be wholly unnavigable. Most of these waters abound with the finest fish, oysters and v.-ild fowl ; which furnish the means of subsistence to many of the poor, and spread the richest repasts* of luxury on the tables of the wealthy. The face of the county is" diversified by hills and flat land. A range of the former, pursuing a S' E. and N. W. course, penetrates the entire coun- ty longitudinally, and divides the waters of the Potomac and Rappahan- nock. Upon the summit of this range, at various intervals are situated several private mansions, from which can be seen in opposite directions the waters of the majestic Potomac, and of the gently meandering Rappa- hannock, with extensive plains intervening — exhibiting to the delightful eye of every lover of natural scenery, the m.ost beautiful and variegated landscapes. The soil on either river, and adjacent to the creeks, is fertile and produc- tive, and rem.arkably well adapted to the growth of Indian corn and wheat ; the two kinds of grain chiefly cultivated. That on the Potomac and its tributaries consists of a rich argillacious, loamy mixture. That on the Rappahannock contains a greater measure of sand ; and though not infe- ♦ The good people of Westmoreland, however frugal and temperate in all things else, discover a highly epicurean taste for these "luxuries of the deep." Although so abundant and so accessible— they loose none of their value from this cause— but (are nevertheless held in the highest estimation — ■ As if incvcftse of appetite greiv" ■ By what it fed oa." 37 200 EASTERN VIRC4INIA— WESTiMORELAND. rior in fertility, is from this cause better suited to the production of corn than wheat. The middle or forest lands are, for the most part sterile — are covered with a thick growth of pine and cedar and exhibit all the symptoms of early exhaustion from the successive culture of tobacco, and neglect of improvement. They are not irreclaimable ; for experiment has proved that these lands are susceptible of the highest degree of improve- ment by the aid of clover and plaster ; and they have in many instances gratefully repaid the attentions of the husbandman by the production of ample and abundant crops. This is peculiarly the case with that section of the county which lies above, or to the N. W. of the Court House. And the same remarks will apply with nearly equal propriety to that portion, which is situated below, or to S. and S. E. of the C. H. Hitherto, indeed, but little regard has been paid to system in agricultural improvement. But within the last few years an honorable and praisc- Avorthy emulation has been excited among the farmers to excel in skill and industry : and whilst greater neatness and arrangement have marked this increased attention to the farming operations, more plentiful returns and an advanced fertility in the condition of the soil, are most happily mani- fested. Wheat and corn are the staple productions ; though other crops are gtown — such as rye, oats and cotton, &.C., which are principally used in domestic consumption. Cord wood (pine, hickory and oak, and some tan- bark, but chiefly the former) has been extensively exported from the county to the cities of the District, and to Baltimore, and has proved a source of lucrative commerce. It is estimated that upwards of 15,000 cords have been shipped in one year from the county. Westmoreland possesses but few antiquities or natural curiosities : and none of sufBcient interest and importance to distinguish its history, or im- part attractions to its geography : none from which the philosopher of na- ture or of man could glean new materials for useful remark or ingenious speculation, either to enlarge the circle of physical science, or to' illustrate the manners and customs of an antecedent race of human beings. Of the curioshies of nature the most interesting perhaps is the clifTs on the Potomac. These rise abruptly from the water's edge and form a pre- cipice of between two and three hundred feet high: — extending to a distance of more than four miles along the course of the river. In the sides of these cliffs at intervals from their base to their summit are found embedded the remains of various kinds of fish and other animals — denoting accord- ing to the received theory on the subject, an antediluvian existence of these animals. Many fossil remains have also been found deeply deposited be- neath the surface of the earth, far in the interior of the county and in a champaign region — some curious specimens of Avhich are in the possession of a gentleman residing near the Court house, Avho has made several rare collections of the kind. Though there is presented but little here of importance to arrest the eye of the stranger, yet to the citizen of the county there are some objects of peculiar aUraction and interest. These are the birthplaces and former resi- dences of some of the sons of Westmoreland and the most distinguished men of our country. The ruins of Chantilly, situated upon the Potomac — once the residence of Richard Henry Lee, are still exhibited. With- in a few miles of the same river and higher up may be seen Stradford, the family seat of the Lee's for many generations ; and latterly of Gen'l Henry EASTERN VIRGINIA— WESTiMORELAND. 29t Lee. On Pope's creek the srarr.ely disiingubhed remains of a house are discovered, which tradition designates as the spot on which the illustrious WASHINGTON was born.* In a few years these will have become obliterated, as they are now barely perceptible, and not a stone be left to point the inquisitive patriot to the place that gave birth to the "Father of his county." Ought not the spot to be rescued from the oblivion to which it is destined by the effects of time and the incursions of the ploughshare? Does it not merit from the hands of his countrymen a durable memorial of the incident by which it is marked? Let the public of Virginia answer. — At the head of Monroe's creek is a spot also known as remarkable for the birth of the late President James Monroe. In the Hall of Justice hangs a full length portrait of the Earl of Chat- ham. This painting was executed by Peel, and presented by Edmund Jennings, Esq. merchant of London, to the "Gentlemen of Westmoreland," in 1768, through the hands of R. H. Lee. The letters of Mr Jennings to Mr. Lee upon its presentation, are preserved in the clerk's office among the archives of the county. The picture repressnts Lord Chatham, in the costume of a Roman Sena- tor — with head, arms and legs bare, and holding in his left hand a copy of Magna Charta ; and obliquely to his right in the foreground is presented an altar with the flame of liberty issuing forth — and upon it desposited a civic wreath. But however destitute this county is of natural curiosities and works of art — yet there are events connected with her history, already partially al- luded to, which furnish abundant cause to .her citizens to exult in her fame, and justify them in claiming for their county the classical appellation of the Athens of Virginia, Some of the most renowned men of this coun- try Avere born within her borders. Of these may be mentioned Washing- ton, R. H. Lee and his three brothers, Thomas, Francis and Arthur, Geu'l Henry Lee, the late Judge Bushrod Washington, and the late Presi- dent James Monroe — names of the highest distinction for wisdom, patriot- ism, eloquence, learning, fortitude and valor, and which of themselves would render illu.strious the history of any country. To have given birth to these distinguished men and fathers of the American Republic, is a source of cherished pride and honor to the citizens of Westmoreland, and they refer to these incidents as constituting a brilliant epoch in the annals of their county — and as vindicating for it a clear and undisputed title to the classic name tiiey have appropriated to it. Should centuries elapse before it again attains distinction for its moral and intellectual character — it has acquired a fame venerable and immortal, that must descend conspicu- ous to all future ages. The population'of this county in 1810 was 8,102 — in 1820,6,901 — in 1830, 8,411 — of whom 3,718 were whites— 3,845 slaves, and 848 free per- sons of color. It belongs to the fifth judicial circuit, and third district. * We subjoin tliis nolo from anotlr.'r poii : "General Wasliuigton was born on a plantat ion called Wakefield, now tlie pro- perty of John Gray, Esq. of Traveller's lle^t, lying on Pope'.s Creek, in AVesimore- land" county, Va. The house in which he fust saw light, was 300 yards from the creek, half a mile from its entrance into the Potomac. The mansion has long since fallen into ruins. Some of tiie trees of '-olden days," are yet standing around it. There is nothing at present to interest, except the' recollections that must crowd upon the mind, while contemplating the birth place of AViuhiuton.'' 292 EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK Tax paid in 1834 on lots, 89 19-^land, 8806 92— 19fi:^ slaves, 8490 75— 1045 horses, $62 70—3 studs, 838 00—34 coaches, 881 25—13 car- ryalls, 813 00—99 gig?, 658 45. Total, 81560 26. Expended in edu- cating poor children in 1833, 8240 46. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Hague, P. O. situated in the east- ern part of the county, 70 ms. S. E. of R., and 132 from W. HuTTSviLLE, P. O. 65 miles from R. and 127 from W. KiNSALE, P. O. 76 ms. from "R. and 138 from W. Leeds, P. O. 82 ms. from R. and 104 S. S. E. of W. Oak Grove, P. 0. 88 ms. N. N. E. of R. and 98 S. of W. This post office has recently been removed from Mattox Bridge. Oak Grove is situated equidistant (6 ms.) from the Potomac and Rappahannock rivers, and one mile from Mat'ox creek. It contains 4 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship, (Methodist,) 3 mercantile stores, (and 2 others in the immediate vicinity,) 1 tavern, and 1 house of private entertainment. The soil in the neighborhood is generally fertile and well adapted to the culture of Indian corn, wheat, tobacco, cotton, &c. Though the two first articles are almost solely cultivated : next to these the principal article of trade is wood] so brisk is the sale, and so large the supply, that 4 or 5 vessels and frequently more are continually load- ing at Mattox bridge. The facilities of commerce are so great with the District of Columbia, Baltimore, Fredericksburg and other places, that no large village can ever be expected to spring up here. The neighbor- hood is thickly settled, and country stores are to be met with at intervals of every 4 or 5 miles. The scenery of the surrounding country is beauti- ful and picturesque, and would well repay those who have money and leisure in paying a visit to this vicin- ity, not far from which is the birth- places of the illustrious Washing- ton, Marshall, Monroe, and other distinguished men. WESTMORELAND C. H. P. V. 70 ms. from R. and 116 S. S. E. of W., situated near the centre of the county, being equidistant behveen the rivers Rappahannock and Potomac. The houses are but {ew, and arranged without regard to order or compact- ness ; of these 8 are built of brick, including the Court House, Clerk's office and jail, — the rest are of wood, very old and much dilapidated. It contains 2 general mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 carriage maker, 1 sad- dler, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1 tailor. Population about 1 00 persons ; of whom 5 are resident attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. County Courts are held on the 4/A Mo7iday in every month: — Qvarter- ly in March, J-ane, August and No- vember. Judge Lomax holds his Cirouit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 21i/ of April and \?jth Oc- tober. YORK. York wa.^ one of the eight original shires into which Virginia, was di- vided by the legislature, in 1634. It is bounded on the N. by York river, which separates it from Gloucester, E. by the Chesapeake bay, S by Eliza- beth City and Warwick counties, and W by Jamei^ City county. Its mean EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK. 293 lene^tli is 2G ms. ; mean breath 5^ nis.; and area 149 sq. ms. Il ('Xlends in lat Irom 37^ 08', to 37^ 23' N. and in long, from 0^ 12', to 0=^ 40' E. of W. This county occupie.s nearly lialf of the peninsula which is formed by the near approach of the York and James rivers ; but the .surface inclines to- wards the former, on which it lies. Much of the soil is good. Population in ISia, r),lS7--in 1820, 14,380—1830, 5,334. York belongs to the 3rd judicial circuit, and 2nd district. Tax paid in 1833, 8802 OG~in 1834, on lots, $31 G9— on land, $1,261 50—1,220 slaves, $305 00— 3G5 horses, j^33 90—5 studs, $20 00—12 coaches, $24 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—72 gigs, $40 35. Total, $823 45. Expended in educating poor children in 18"32, $292 G8— in 1833, $184 39. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. U.A.LF-WAY-HorsE, P. O. 84 ms.j scenery. Population 282 persons ; of S. E. by E. of R. and 187 ms. from whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- W., situated in the eastern part of the county, about l2 ms. S. E. of the C. H. and half a mile from Poquosin ri- ver. There are at this place 5 build- ings, 2 of which are old stores, not vember occupied at present, 1 public house, and 1 excellent dwelling house. The land in the neighborhood is fertile, producing well the ordinary staples, corn, wheat, oats, «fcc. The situation is pleasant and eligible, directly on the gular j)hysicians. County Courts are held on the Zd Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, Augnat and No- Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the24/Aof April and September, by Judge Up- shur. Before closing Eastern Virginia it may be interesting to the reader lo main stage road from Yorktown to! peruse a succinct account of the me- Hampton. Imorable events which took place at YORKTOWN, P. V. Port ofen-'Ahe siege of Yorktown during the re- tn/ and seat of justice, 72 ms. S. E.i volution, and whicli eventuated in the by E. of R. and 175 ms. S. S. E. of surrender of the whole of the English W. in lat. 37^ 14', and long. 0^ 30' army, under the command of Lord E. of W. C, situated immediately on the right bank of York river, 1 1 ms. above its mouth, and 33 ms. N. W. from Norfolk. Yorktown suffered considerably from a fire which occur- red during the last war, when most of the best buildings were destroyed. Cornwallis, to the combined Ameri- can and French army, under the com- mand of Washington, which was the closing scene of the American war, and the establishment of American independence. 'I'lie following brief outline secm.<5 together with the old Episcopal lo have been taken from the journal church. The present number ofjof an American officer, engaged in houses, besides the county buildings, ithe scenes which he describes, and to have been published in some peiiodi- cal about the year 1784 or 1785. Siege oj York and Gloucester. Sept. 15, 1781.— General Wash- ington arrived at Williamsburg; re- ceived the iMarquis de la Fayette's ^^,^^„ command, and count St. Simon's ly situated in an open country, having' troops, which had arrived the 30th of a beautiful view of land and water August, with count de Grasse, and are 40, — the most of which are going fast to decay. It has several stores, 1 house of public worship (Baptist,) 1 school, in which are taught the ru diments of English education, 1 tan- yard, 1 cabinet maker, 1 carriage ma- ker, I house carpenter, and 3 black- smith shops. Yorktown is pleasant- 294 EASTERN VIRGINIA— YORK. landed at Jamestown tlie 3d instant. 21. — First division of the northern army arrived in James's river. The 23d and 24th almost the whole got in and landed. The 27th, the whole army moved, and encamped in a line, three quarters of a mile advanced off Williamsburg, distant from Yorktown 1 1 miles. 28. — The whole moved at day- light: after two halts, arrived within a mile and a half of the enemy's works: displayed and lay on our arms all night. Beaver pond creek, and mo- rass in our front, over which bridges were built that night: and general Muhlenbergh's brigade of light infan- try formed a picquet in advance. 29. — About sunrise moved to with- in three quarters of a mile of the ene- my's out-works, and displayed into two lines, a ravine in front, to view- cur ground; advanced small parties in front to cover our reconnoitering parties. At four, P. M. moved to our ground on the right, and encamped >vithin range of the enemy's artillery in two lines; advanced a line of pic- quets in front, and increased our camp guards. 30. — The enemy fearing v\-e should turn their left, and get between their out-works and the town, abandoned the whole of them, and retired to town a little before dajr-light, leaving a few light horse to protect tiieit rear. Colonel Scammel, being officer of the day, advanced to reconnoitre and re- port accordingly, when he was inter- cepted, wounded and taken, bv a few light horse, who had lain concealed. [He died of his wounds in six days.j Both lines were put in motion, and advanced with caution towards their works, suspecting some feint of tlie enemy. Lay on our arms all that night. The light infantry remained on the ground, as a covering party to the fatigued men, busied in erecting a chain of redoubts to guard our camp, and cover our working parties, who were occupied in procuring materials /or the siege 31. — The light infantry relieved by Wayne's division this evening. The redoubts completed this niglu, and filled with a proper number of troops- October 1 to 6. — Employed in pre- paring materials, getting up our artil- lery, 6lc. At six o'clock, moved on the ground, and opened our first pa- rallel, about six hundred yards from the enemy's works, under cover by day-light. No accident. Continued working till mornings. 7. — The light troops entered in line reversed, with drums beating, and co- lours flying; planted their standards on the top of the line of the parallel; continued working on the batteries, which were completed about five o'clock. 9.-^-P. M. the enemy received the first shot from us, which was contin- ued with spirit from cannon and mor- tars. The enemy's fire slackened. Several of their guns were dismount- ed: and they were obliged to fill up their entrenchments. 10. — Light infantry mounted: and the Charon of 44 guns and two smaller vessels, were burned by some hot shot from the left of the line, com- manded hy count St. Simon. This happened about eight o'clock in the evening, the weather being serene and calm, and aflbrded an awful and me- lancholly sight. The Charon was on fire from the water's edge to her truck at the same time. I never saw any thing so magnificent. 11. — In the evening, the second parallel opened by B. Steuben's di- vision. This parallel was carried on with amazing rapidity, at 360 yards distance from the enemy's batteries, under a very heavy fire, the enemy's shot and shells directed at the work- men : our shot and shells going over our heads in a continual blaze the whole night. The sight was beauti- fully tremendous. We lost but one man, shot by our own men, the gun not being sufficiently elevated, or being fired with a bnd osrtridge. EASTERN VIRGhMA— YOltK. 295 I2tli, 13lli, and I hh. Continued completing the batteries of the second parallel, and wounding their abattis, and frize-works with our shot and shells. About two o'clock, P. M. the out defences of two redoubts, that were advanced on their left 250 yards in their front, were thought sufficient- ly weakened, to attempt them that evening by storm. The light infan- try were relieved, and directed to re- fresh themselves with dinner and a nap. About dusk, they moved on, under the Marquis, and were in pos- session of one, in nine minutes. The other was carried by the French grenadiers and light infantry, under baron Viomenil, nearly about the same time, when the second parallel was continued on, and enveloped these two redoubts, and finished a line ol communication between the rights of the first and second parallel of up- wards of a mile, before day-light next morning. The whole of this was performed under a very incessant and heavy fire from the enemy, with amazing steadiness and expedition. 15. — Employed in repairing the redoubts, and erecting batteries, now within reach of the enemy's grape, rifle and wall-pieces. 16. — This night, a timid, ill con- ducted sortie was attempted under lieutenant-colonel Abercrombie, with about six hundred men. They en- tered the parallel about the centre, nearly between the French and Ame- rican troops, at a battery erecting by the Americans, not completed. They killed a sarjeant and two privates of captain Savage's company of artillery: spiked six guns with the end of their bayonets, which they broke off in the vent-holes; turned about ; and went off with the greatest precipitation. In their retreat, they were pursued, and lost twelve men — six killed, four wounded, two taken : the light infan- try in the trenches. Lord Cornwal- lis, in his account of the matter, says our loss was iipwards of 100. , 17. — Light infantry still in the trenches. Between ten and pleven, A. M. chamade beat, and propositions for surrender sent out by his lordship: received by the Marquis, and for- warded to head-quarters. Cessation of firing about twenty minutes, till flag had returned within their works. On our resuming the fire, a second chamade beat: and the officer return- ing, was told that the answer, as soon as received from head-quarters, would be forwarded. The firing on both sides re-commenced, and went on as usual, only small intermissions, du- ring the passing of two or three let- ters from each side. Light infantry relieved by the baron Steuben's divis- ion : and the business being concluded that evening, the firing ceased about five o'clock% P. M. The 18th and part of the 19th, taken up in adjusting matters, viz. articles of capitulation, public letters, &c. 19. P. M. — They marched out and laid down their arms. The whole of the king's troop, including sailors and marines, amounted to 8,054, officers included. Thus ended this business, in nine days from our breaking ground. The whole of our strength, includ- ing every person that drew provisions by the commissary-general's return, amounted to 12,200. Our loss was 324 killed, wounded and died in the hospital; sick in the hospital about GOO; unfit for duty, 830. So that when the necessary detail of the Avhole army was completed, his lordship was never opposed by more than an equal number. Very frequently, from our great fatigue, parties at a considerable distance from the camp, and trenches two miles, had he come out to us, we could have opposed him with but very few more than two thirds of his number. This, I believe, will be al- lowed by any officer of discernment, who was acquainted with the details of the victorious combined army. WESTEEM VIRGINIA. INTRODUCTION. Perh.vi'.s no section of country of th« same extent, possesses greater natural advantages than that portion of the State of Virginia west'.vard of the Bine Kidge Mountain. Possessed of a climate the most salubrious and invigorating-, and a soil happily adapted to the production of almost every thing- usefixl to man, nothing- is wanting but industry to render this one of the fairest agricultural portions of the globe. The vallies of the Shenandoah, the Upper James river, the Kanawha and Holston, found in this portion of the commonwealth, present a field almost unrivalled for the exertions of an industrious and enterprising population. Some of these as yet, are comparatively unreclaimed and in a state of nature; but the time is not distant, when under the invigorating influence of wise atjd salutary regulations, they will be seen teeming with the products of enterprise and industry. But Western Virginia is not remarkable only for agricultural advantages. Her fossil and mineral wealth is no where equaled; iron, lead, gypsum, coal, and salt, are found in different places in this region, some of which have already become a fruitful source of commerce and of •wealth. Other and similar sources of Avealth may still be buried and con- cealed from the eye of man in our extensive forest regions. The salt of the Kanawha and Holston, after suppljang the home consumption, is already an article of extensive and profitable commerce upon most of the western waters. The iron of the valley, the excellence of which is readily admitted, would soon become a staple of commerce and a source of wealth to that section, did the improvements of the country supply the required, facilities for the transportation of so cum.bersome an article. These enu- merated m.anufactures, though already claiming notice from their conse- quence, are to be regarded as yet in their infancy, compared with the rank they will hereafter attain, in numbers and extent, should the increasing" com.merce and enterprise of the country call forth their resources. Witti the exception of the commercial channels which nature has provided as outlets for them., our productions, whether manufactured or agricultural, are and must be limited to a narrow region of country snrrounding them. This will continue to be the case until the country becomes aroused to the necessity of following the example of our sister con'imunities. in opening additional and much needed line^ of commercial intercourse. 08 398 WESTERiN VIRGINIA— INTRODUCTION. Had nature been even more bountiful than she has to this favored region, still if her gifts are neglected or unimproved, no benefits result to the community. Such is in fact the condition of Western Virginia. We possess natural advantages in abundance, every thing for skill and enterprise and industry to work upon, but no corresponding results such as are elsewhere exhibited, are any where seen. This state of things merits an attentive consideration and demands an adequate remedy. Let the citizens of Western Virginia arouse themselves, and harmoniously unite in efforts to improve their condition and bring into active and profitable exercise the numerous discovered and undiscovered sources oi wealth with which our country abounds. GENERAL DESCRIPTION, This division of the commonwealth, as recognized by the constitution of 1830, extends from the Blue Ridge to the Ohio, and contains forty-five counties, with an area of 38,900 square miles, equal to 24,896,000 acres. The population in 1830, was 378,475, of which the free inhabitants num- bered 324,988, and the slaves 53,437 — shewing an increase of nearly 25 per cent in the first class, and nearly 24 per cent in the second, within the preceding ten years. This sparse population oi less than ten souls to a square mile, is not owing to either a want of salubrity in the climate, or of fertility in the soil, but to adventitious causes which time is progressively removing. The early policy of the general government in bringing large bodies of the public domain into market, at very low prices, and on long credits, with the recent diminution of three-eights of the former prices placed on those lands, have e.xercised a very important control over the settlement and con- .sequent improvement of this part of Virginia. The nearer districts of level and fertile land in the New States, are howeA-er receiving a sufficient population to give increased value to the soil, and the government sales at more distant points become less sensibly felt ; but should the threatening efforts now making to employ the Public Lands as a bounty to draw off the inhabitants of the old States, by giving new homes to all who will occupy them, at merely nominal prices, prove successful, no portion of the original states will feel the effects more sensibly than Virginia, and par- ticularly the district under consideration. The retarded population of the western counties, has also been owing in some measure to the unsettled state of the land titles ; an evil which recent legislation has gone far to remove. By an act of the 5th of February, 1831, the limitation in writs of right is reduced to twenty-five years : and in actions of ejectment, to fifteen years: and by an act of the 10th of March, 1832, a lein is given on lands, in favor of the occupant thereof, for the value of the improvements which may be made thereon, before notice of the adverse title. The first of these laws gives safety and security to the great body of the land-hold- ers, and the second gives full remuneration for all the improvements in the event of an eviction ; they were called for by the condition of the country, and will no doubt give confidence to future immigrants, as well as invigo- rate the industry of the present inhabitants. No climate can be more favorable to health and longevity ;' the temperate latitude and elevation of the country; protect it in a great measure from the extremes of heat and cold, and when they occur, they are very rarely of inconvenient duration. The face of the country presents an uneven surface, owing to the ranges of mountains which intersect it froni the northeast to the southwest, and 300 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF which occupy much of the territory from the North mountain, and skirts the large limestone valley of Virginia, to the Cumberland and Laural Hill chain. These mountains rise from two to three thousand feet above the ocean, but are neither sterile, or unusually steep; on the contrary they are generally covered with the finest timber, and abound with kinds denoting high fertility ; the vallies are frequently extensive, and present to the eye the most beautiful and majestic scenery. The soil of tliis district consists of almost every variety. The great limestone valley of Virginia, extend- ing from the Potomac to the county of Montgomery, near two hundred and fifty miles in length, and from twenty to forty miles in width, is perhaps not surpassed in the abundance and variety of its agricultural products, by any district of the same extent in the Atlantic Stales. From the North mountain, to the \yestern chain ot the Alleghanies, formed by the continuing links between the Cumberland and the Laurel mountains of Pennsylvania, the country presents a series of ridges and well watered vallies, the latter generally rich, and the former not unfrequently oflering easy slopes to cultivation and for pasture. Along the sununit of the mid- dle range much high table land is found, and considerable portions of it free from timber, and covered with grass. Some of those natural meadows are of large extent, and serve as pasture, for numerous herds of horned cattle. Although the western division of Virginia may throughout be em- phatically denominated a grass country, yet it no where else equals the abun- aant and nutricious productions annually displayed upon those elevated table lands, and whether the grazing farm is prepared by enclosing and reclaim- ing the natural meadows; or by^freeing the ground of its forest trees, the prodiict is equally certain and abundant. The country extending from the Cumberland and Laurel range of mountains to the Ohio river, is generally broken ; but interspersed with extensive districts of land sulTicieritly level for agricuhural purposes, and of which industry is annually bringing large portions into cuUure. The Ohio and Potomac, as well as their large tributaries, are proverbial for the rich alluvial lands which border those streams. These bodies of very fertile and almost inexhaustible low grounds, vary in width from a few hundred yards to one and tv.-o miles. Sufllciently undulating to pass the water from their surface, and generally elevated above the freshets to which the western rivers are liable. 1'hese alluvial tracts arc admirably adapted to the culture of hemp, tobacco. Indian corn, and turnij)s, and after a few years yield very fine crops of wheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, Slc. The upland as before remarked, is frequently rough and broken, but gene- rally not so much so, a.s to prevent its employment in cultivation and pas- ture, when advancing population shall require its use for those purpo.ses ; the highest and steepest hills are well adapted to the growth and produc- tion of many of the most valuable species of the grape, and on their sides the mulberry flourishes v.'ith peculiar vigor, h may not therefore be unrea- sonable to anticipate the time, when wine and silk will be ])rc)minent arti- cles of the export from this region of country. The principal agricultural products of the western district of Virginia, at this time, are wheat, rye, oats, barley, buck wheat, hemp, flax, tobacco and corn, v.-ith abundant supplies of indigenous and exotic grapes. 'J"he grazing and feeding farms, which stand next in importance, export annual- ly a large amount in neat cattle, horses, mules, hogs and sheep, besides beef, bacon, lard, butter and wool. Of the products of the foreot, the west- WESTERN VIRGINIA. 301 em counties furnish much the larger portion, consisting- of pfonsanfr, fur, pel.ries. venison iiams, staves, limber, jjiank, and cord wood on the rivers navigated with stea nboats. The manufactories, althoug-h in tlieir infancy, yield considerahie supplies to other States, in flour, salt, leather, and former- ly of lead. " Mountains are the mothers of minerals," and the country from the B!u3 Ridge to the Ohio river, fully verifies the truth of the aphorism. Al- though this district has as yet, but slightly attracted the notice of the scien- tific mineralogist, many of these useful metals and fossils have been discovered, and in some instances brought into extensive use. Iron is found in abundance on the waters of the Potomac, Shenandoah, James, Jackson and the Roanoke rivers, and at many places on the upper branches of those streams, is manufactured to great extent, and with corresponding advantage; on New river, or the Upper Kanawha and its tributaries, this valuable mineral abounds, and of the best qualities ; it is also found in very encouraging quantities and exhibiting fine appearances, convenient to the waters of the Great and fjittle Kanawhas, Monongahela, Elk, Gauley, Guyandotte and Sandy rivers. The ores which have been discovered, pre- sent almost every variety, but those apparently most abundant, are the com- pact brown ore, the brown hematite, and specular ores. The salt district of Virginia, passing west of the Alleghany range, and nearly in a parallel course with those mountains, t'urni.shes this important article in greater -or less abundance, in the counties of Harrison, Lewis, Kanawha and Washington. In the two latter counties, however, are situ- ated the principal manufactories j that of Kaoawha, supplying about one million and a half of bushels per annum, and the Washington works about 100,000. An analysis of the Kanawha water, gives 35 mur. of lime — 2 car. of iron — 1 free car. acid — 56 chloride of sodium and bromide of cal- cium — and 956 moisture. The water used in the manufactory of salt in the county of Washing- ton, contains less of (he muriate, and more of the sulphate of lime, and a larger portion of the chloride of sodium. Lead of considerable quantities v/as long since discovered in the county of Wythe, and was formerly much ■ u.sed in commerce, but owing to the expensive land carriage Avliioh had to" be encountered in conveying it to market, and to the opening lead mines more lavorafjly situated on the MissLssippi, those of Wythe have in a great measure fallen into disuse. Extensive beds of exifrangible gvpsum are f(unid on the upper Lranche.s of the Holston, but are comparativelj-^ useless from the want of convenient" and cheap lines of tran.«portation ; and the same remark applies to the quarries of very superior luihr stone, shuated near Christiansburgh, in the county of Montgomery. The coal formation of the western part of Virginia, is limited on the Kentucky border, to the country lying between the Cumberland range, and the Ohio river — extending to the northeast, the coal district spreads from the Ohio, as far ea.stwardly as the neighborhood of Westernport on the Potomac. 'J'hroughout this entire tract of country, bituminous coal pre- sents itself in great abundance, in beds varying in thickness, from a few inches to 12 and 15 feet; attended every where by micacious sand-stone, conglomerate rocks, and clay slate, the latter abounding in vegetable im- pres.'^ions. At the salt wells on the Great Kanawha, as well as at many natural springs within the coal region, napthu is found tloating on the -.ur^ 302 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF face of the water in considerable quantities. Anthracite Coal, to which Pennsylvania is indebted Cor the rapid extension of many ot her important manufactories, as well as tlie great enlargement of her interior commerce, has been recently discovered in the counties of Berkley and Morgan. Still more recent researches have ascertained the existence of this valuable mineral, apparentlj'^ in extensive bodies, in the counties of Rockingham and Augusta, from which it is probable that the great Valley of Vir- ginia will ere long become as celebrated for the extent of its manufactories as it is now proverbial for its large agricultural products. As this district undergoes more thorough examination, and its mineral resources become farther developed, it will probably disclose as extensive masses of iron and coal in the same vicinhies, as now distinguish South V^ales ; and although the bituminous coal may contain more volatile matter, and less charcoal, than the Welch furnace coal, the value of the tar and. pitch which it will yield, may more than compensate for the comparative deficiency of carbon. No quarter of the world presents a greater variety of mineral waters, than this portion of Virginia. Medicinal springs are almost as numerous as the counties, but it will suffice to notice those which have attracted the greatest share of public consideration, and which receive annually the greatest number of visitors. In the large limestone valley immediately west of the Blue Ridge, are the Berkley and Morgan springs, the Shenan- doah springs, the Augusta springs, and the Botetourt springs. They are usually attended by a respectable number ot A'isitors, and the medicinal effects of the waters have giv^asome reputation to each of those fountains. The county of Bath is distinguished by the Warm and Hot springs, situ- ated within five miles of each other, and upon the principal road leading east and west, through Virginia, the great bath at the Warm Springs is universally admired by all Vv'ho have enjoyed the luxury of its tepid and buoyant waters. This copious fountain of hydrosulphurous water, rises within the walls of the bath, and preserves a uniform temperature of 90° of Fr. The baths of the Hot springs differ in temperature, from 51° to 107°, and belong to the thermal saline class. These fountains may be justly placed at the head of the thermal waters of the United States, and from their use, the happiest effects have been produced in cases of chronic rheumatism and hepatic affections of long standing. In the adjoinmg counties of Greenbrier and Monroe, aie situated the White Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, and the Red Sulphur Springs; they are classed as cold hydrosulphurous waters; the first is peculiarly distinguish- ed for efficacy in cases familiarly denominated bilious and liver complaints ; the second for the removal of dyspepsia, and all affections of the stomach, whether connected with the state of the liver or not: the third has a high reputation from the peculiar influence which its waters exercise over pul^ monary affections. The Sweet Springs are also in the county of Monroe, near the eastern base of the Alleghany. This fountain, like the Berkley springs, is cold, acidulous or carborated, and yields a copious stream of the temperature of 73° of Fr. The Sweet springs have acquired a fashionable and well merited celebrity ; the water is believed to be particularly serviceable in the variety of the dyspepsia, accompanied bv gastrodynia or spasm. In .secondary debilily of the digesiivo canal, from the exhau.'^ting heats of sum- WESTERN VIRCilNlA. 30S mer, or in chronic diarrhea or dysentery, without fever, or not sustained by hepatic inflammation, the internal use of these waters have produced the happiest etlects. These hio;hly valuable fountains of health arc so con- veniently situated as to enable the visitors to alternate their use, with great advantage and satisfaction ; and the several proprietors have so extended their means of accommodating company, and added so many comforts and beauties to their respective establishments, that they are now annually at- tended by a large concourse of fashionable people from the valley of the Mississippi, and from the middle and southern States, as well as by inva- lids from almost every quarter of the Union. A Spring on Muddy creek, in Greenbrier county, heretofore visited by but few persons, as the accommodations have been very limited, is beginning to attract much pub- lic interest from the highly salutary influence which the waters have pro- duced in aggravated cases of scrofula. The favorable results experienced by persons suffering under this afflicting and inscrutable disease, induced a number of gentlemen in 1833, to unite in the purchase and improvement of the property; and measures are now in progress for erecting extensive and convenient buildings, and for giving to this spring as many attractions as are found at the most fashionable medicinal fountains. Many natural curiosities of an interesting character are to be found be- tween the Blue Ridge and the Ohio. Those most known are Weyer's and Madison's Caves, near the Shenandoah river, and about two miles from Port Republic. These wonderful caverns are both subterranean openings in the same limestone hill. The first has been explored to the distance of 900 yards, and the latter has been penetiated to the depth of 120 yards. Madison's cave has been much disfigured by the manufacture of salt- petre, to which it was for some time appropriated. Weyer's cave is how- ever in a fine state of preservation ; the entrance is narrow, but the cavern enlarges as it advances under the hill, until some of the apartments present an extent of floor equal to 300 by 200 feet, with majestic ceiling springing to the height of 80 and 90 feet. The drippings of this cave are not suf- ficient to affect the lights which are neces.sary to its examination, or to in- commode the visitors. The deposits of lime dissolved in the water, forms stalactites of ahnot-t every shape, and of every variety of beauty — curtains descending in wave-like folds from the ceiling to the floor — plain and fluted columns — colonades, various resemblances of household furniture, and marble statues, which require but little imagination to give them fair proportiono, and the habiliments of the ancient Romans, are among the pleasing objects with which the sight of the visitor is regaled ; the colors are for the most part v.-hite, but sometimes red, and occasionally variegated. When illuminated, the cave presents one of the most magnificent scenes in nature. There are two other caves in this limestone district that are as yet but little know»» but are said to be equal if not superior in beauty and magnificence to Weyer's cave. One of these is called Alluis Cave — the other is near the top of a small mountain called Cave Hill, situated one mile west of I.Airay, (county seat of Page.) Allen's cave is situated in Shenandoah county, a short' distance from Front Royal. Descriptions of these caves will be found in the counties in which they arc locafed. The Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek, in the county of Rockbridge, which rises 270 feet; the Natural Tunnel, in Scott county, and the grand and majestic scenery at and around Harper's Ferry, attract visiters from considerable distances. The Blowing cave, near the Cow Pasture river* 304 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ..which constantly sends forth a strong current of air: and the cbbn^g and -flowing, or Syphon spring, on the estate of the late Capt. John Lewis, in the same valley, are objects of examination with most of the investigating travellers who visit that part of the State. On the -low grounds of the Great Kanawha, about seven miles above Charleston, are several fissures in the earth through which constant streams of carburetted hydrogen gas are discharged. These are called burning springs, as the earth is so de- pressed around them as to collect and retain the water in or^Jinary seasons, and which is kept in active ebulition by the gas which is discharged through it ; when inflamed, this gas burns with a pale blaze at the surface of the water, when it mixes with the atmosphere, until it is extinguished by a strong current of air. This is by no means a rare production of 4iature in this district, as considerable issues of it are found on Big Sandy, and Little Kanawha rivers, and in boring for salt water on the C4rcat Ka- nawha, the discliarges of carbureted hydrogen have been so great and con- tinued, as to compel in one instance, the abandonment of the work. That part of the Great Kanawha which is above the mouth of Gauley, •having to search its intricate way, and force its passage through a chain of lofty and rugged mountains, exhibits a series of the most stupendous clifTs from the mouth of Greenbrier to Gauley river, particularly Avhere Gauley mountain is riven to its base by this stream in its passage to the Ohio ; at this point, and near the great western turnpike, those cliiTs present them- selves frequently to the eye of the traveller in majestic grfindeur. One of 'the most lofty and perpendicular was formerly designated by a hawk's nest on its side, but is now called "Marshall's Pillar," commemorative of the laborious and perilous voyage of the Chief Justice in his examination of this river in 1812. From the flat rock forming the summit, to the agitated waters below, the view is fearfully grand : few of the many who visit it, can look over this dizzy height but in a reclining position ; the elevation is estimated by engineers at from 750 to 800 feet, but no actual admeasure- ment has yet been made. The sparse population of many parts of the country, has heretofore pro- duced its usual effects in relation to education ; schools however have been annually multiplying, and with the aid afforded by the literary fund, pri- mary instruction is generally diflused, and becoming m.ore elevated in its range. Well organized academies are established in many of the coun- ties, and those of Frederick, Augusta, Washington, Greenbrier, Kanawha, and Harrison, particularly deserve notice. Washington College in Rock- bridge, justly ranks among the most useful and di.^tinguishcd of the south- ern seminaries. It received a most serviceable addition to ils funds by a devise from Gen'l George Washington, which was followed by a be- quest of a large estate from Mr. John Robinson, one of its early patrons, and more recently a donation of the funds of the Cincinnati society of Virginia. Thus liberally founded, and supplied with able professors, this institution contributes largely to the learning and intelligence of the country. Commercial roads and navigable canals are greatly wanted As yet the government of Virginia has comparatively done but little towards improv- ing the rivers and roads of this district. Among the works constructed under the direction of the State, is the James and Kanawha turnpike, leading from Covington to the town of Guyandotte on the Ohio, and to the mouth of Bier Sandy river. This road passes by, or near, the principal WESTERN VIRGINIA. 3#5 mineral springs west of the Alleghan}'^ ; the work is approaching comple- tion on the westi?rn end, and its extension is in progress eastward by the Hot and Warm Springs to tlie town of Staunton in Augusta. Incomplete as the work is, this road forms one of the most important avenues of inter- course between the eastern and western waters ; it is much used in ordi- nary travelling, and in the transportation of property ; and at this time daily lines of stage coaches find full employment upon the route. They are connected in the conveyance of passengers with the steam boats of the Ohio, and those of the James and Potomac rivers. On the western end, even this provision for the accommodation of passengers has been found insufficient, and a tri-weekly line has been added between the Ohio river and the White Sulphur Springs, during the visiting season. Under the direction, and with the funds of the State, a like road has been located from Winchester to Parkersburgh, on the Ohio, which when finished will con- fer important advantag-es on the northwest counties. To a joint stock company aided by the State, the Valley of Virginia has been much indebted for the improvement of the navigation of Shenan- doah river. The work undertaken by the company has been so far com- pleted, as to draw to that river an accession of trade which has increased the tolls from B604 in 1827 to87,691 in 1831 — continuing to improve with each .succeeding year. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, although passing up on the nortli side of the Potomac, confers important advantages on the northern border of the State, and will as it advances westward still further invigorate and extend the agricuUural industry, and enlarge the commercial operations of the Virginia counties within its influence. These works undertaken, or fostered by the commonv\-eahh, hov/ever use- ful, are but of minor character when compared with the important enter- prize on which the government of Virginia has long deliberated, of draw- ing a fertilizing portion of the commerce of the Western States, to her eastern cities. °0f this enterprize so long meditated and so fully discussed, we find the following account given in a memorial addressed to the General Assembly in 1828. " The Legislative Declaration, that next to the enjoy- ment of 'civil liberty itself, it might be questioiied whether the best organ- ized government could assure to those for whom all governments are in- stituted, a greater blessing than an open, free and easy intercourse with one another, by good roads, navigable rivers, and canals ; that their ten- den.cy, by extending commerce, promoted the agriculture of a nation, and thereby augmented its wealth and population; — satisfied us that these great interests of Virginia were no longer to be neglected, andthatas many of the other States v/ere advancing in wealth and num.bers with a rapidity which had astonished themselves, the ancient and elder sister of the Union would remove the reproach of her remaining stationary." "This manifest determination of the Legislature to improve the vast ad- vantan-es po'?fJ3sscd by the common^vealth, seemed to be based on consid- erations of so fixed and durable a character, that but little doubt was en- tertained by your memorialist of the achievement of the great work of connecting "the eastern and western waters of Virginia, by navigable canals and turnpike roads of the most permanent conctrnction, when Avater con- veyance was unattainable, this measure had entered largely into the views of the proprietor of the land on which the City of Richmond and the town of Manchester now stands, and as early as the year 1767. was adverted to by that distinguished individual, in his proposition for the sale of the 39 §03 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF jots of those towns, in strong and prophetic terms. The practicability and vast advantages of opening this line of communication to the western frontier of the middle colonies, were dwelt upon as matters of great inter- est to.the future prosperity of Virginia. Our Washington was scarcely disen- .gaged from the toils of ihe camp, when turning his capacious mind to the objects' tending to promote and secure the public happiness, made a com- munication to Gov. Harrison, in which the incalculable importance of con- necting the eastern and western waters of Virginia, was enforced Avith zeal, and supported by considerations combining the present with the future, which must have resulted in the immediate undertaking of the \York, but for the exhausted state of the Treasury. Our venerable Jeffer- son, partaking in the view of his distinguished friend, and equally desirous of improving and exalting his native State, made an eflbrt to secure to this great work the influence and active direction of the father of his country; deeming its magnitude sufficient to invite his superintendence, and its com- .jvletion the happiest monument of his retirement." _;• "The continued interest manifested by our citizens in almost every quar- ter of the State, and the improved condition of the Treasury, induced the Jjegislature in 1813-14 to organize a commission for exploring and re- .-{Kjrting on the practicability, utility and expense of efTecting this long con- templated connevjon, and for ascertaining the best means of securing to .."Virginia a due participation in the rich trade of the West. The report of CJir distinguished fellow-citizen, the Chief Justice of the United States, g'^lth that of other gentlemen designated with him to perform that duty, fully realized the previous anticipations, and furnished the strongest induce- .«^ente for the execution of the work. The war with Great Britain, in Jivhich.we were then engaged, however, compelled its postponement. The conflict, over, the government of Virginia resumed this interesting sub- -;^ct, and after various examinations of all its details by the most experi- enced engineers, and with the fullest development of all its branches, by an act bearing date the 17th February 1820, dttcrmined upon the execution of the entire work, from the tide water of James river to the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio, providing by law for the completion thereof in t^e following order. 1. To render the Great Kanawha navigable at all seasons of the year, for boats drawing three feet water, from the great falls to the Ohio river. 2d!y. To improve the navigation of James river, from ticle. water to Pleasani's Island, by locks and navigable canals, affording at all seasons of the year, at least three feet depth of navigable water. 3dly •To make the best road practicable, at an expense of $100,000, from the iiiouth.of Dunla^o's crcek,to the great'falls of Kanawha. 4thly. To make navigable locks and canals, from Pleasant's Island to Dunlap's creek, fur- nishing at least the same depth of water for the entire distance. A mea- sure so important in its influence over the future destinies of the State ; originating with the sages of the countrj^ the fathers of the land ; sustain- ed and approved by the wisdom of successive Legislative bodies; its prac- ticability demonstrated by the combined science of the best qualified engi- neers, could not but be regarded as irrevocably determined on ; the period of its completion to be hastened by all the resources of the commonwealth. Such were Unquestionably the convictions of the Legislature of 1819-20, and of your memorialist."' Notwithstanding the previous determination of the Legislature, and the strong inducements presented for reanimated action on the part of the gov- WESTERN VIRGINrA. it:" i^t eminent, eight pears of plans and deliberations have passed by. One project after another has been proposed, considered and abandoned, whi^e two short sections of canal on the margin of James river, and the abovtiV« attempt to improve the navigation of the Great Kanawha, remains the monument of that indecision and procrastinating polic3^ which has stripped the commonwealth of her elevation in the family of States, and is so rapid- ly sending her people to seek new homes, where the "blessings next to civil liberty" are not only proclaimed, but practically secured. While the pen is tracing these brief notes, the General Assembly is engaged in de'- liberations upon this subject ; but whether their labors will result in anotiie'r abortive attempt to put this work in progress, or in the provision of ade- quate means for its entire execution, on a scale of usefulness and durabili- ty, worthy of the ancient commonwealth, and commensurate to the advan- tages which it ought to confer on her sister States, is extremely doubtful.* - If Virginia should ever resume this great Avork Avith ardor and reason- able unanimity ; and pursue it with constancy of purpose to its final com.- pletion, it must produce a new era in her history, and entirely change the destiny which now seems to await her. Among the liigh considerations that so strongly prompt her to the em- ployment of her resources and credit in achieving this great viK)rk, the fol- lowing are perhaps the most prominent. The certain participation in a large portion of the commerce of the \%-est, the value of which is attested by the expenditures and-eflbrt-s of other States to become partakers. The development of her exhaustless mineral resources, and the consequent extension of* important manufectories into every section of the country. The giving to her agricultural and planting interests the highest stimulus — the creation of a rich and fertilizing inte- rior commerce, sustaining in return the most extensive foreign trade. The rapid increase of her population with the comfort and weahh -which must attend them — and the speedy and permanent advance in the -'value of the entire landed property of the State. Those of a political character are scarcely less important. Its connecting influence upon the States them- selves and upon the two great divisions of Virginia, noAv hanging but loosely together, must be apparent to all, and if the Union is ever destined to crumble, such a line of intercommunication, with the connections and aseoeialions to which it must give rise, cannot fail to unite in the same des- tinies, the southern States, and those of the Great Valley of the Missi&T. sippi. , '.'[' ~ *Since this was written, the Legislature pa.ssed the act allowing the patriotic arid enterprising corporation of Richmond to take ,'$250,000, in addition to their previou.s subscription of S400,000, and taking the remaining $500,000 for the Slate ; by which acts the whole amount of $5,000000 is .subscribed, which was necessary to secure the charter of the James River and Kanawha Compaiiv, and the successful prosecutiofl of this great work ensured. WESTERN VIRGINIA. ALLEGHANY. Alleghany was created by the legislature in 1822, and formed from portions of Bath, Bottetourt and Monroe. It is bounded N. by Bath and a small portion of Greenbrier, E. by Rockbridge and Bottetourt, S. by Mon- roe, and W. by Greenbrier; its mean length is 26 ms. ; mean breadth 20 ; and area 521 sq. ras. It lies between ]at. 37° 35', and 38° N. and the cen- tre about 3° W. long, from W. C. Most of this county is a high mountam valley, drained by the head waters of the James river. Poti's and Dun- lap's creeks rise 'in Monroe and flow N. E. until they unite with Jackson's river near Covington, about the centre of the county. Jackson's river rises in Pendleton, and flowing S. through Bath, enters Alleghany, passess the gap between Peter's and the Warm 'Spring mountains, receives Pott's creek from the S., and then turns first N. E. and then after turning the N. E. flank of Rich Patch mountain, it flows S. E. into Bottetourt. Coiv-Pas- ivre river rises also in Pendleton, flow^s by a tortuous channel, nearly due S. through Bath and Alleghany, and unites with Jackson's river, soon after it passes into Bottetourt. These two rivers by their union constitute the James. Much of the surface of this county is covered with mountains; its mean level exceeds 10,000 ft. above the tides of the ocean. The mam Al- leghany chain forms its boundary on the W. Pefer^s mountain and Warm Spring mountain divide the county into nearly two equal parts, having only a narrow gap at Covington. Poh or Middle mountain and Ricli Patch, form its boundary on the S. E. Besides these continuous ranges, there area number of "others filling up the intervals, such as Oliver, Morris, Beard's, &c. The staples of the county are grain, and its products gene- rally the same as other counties situated in the same latitude. Population in 1830, 2,816. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $473 15— in 1834 on "lots, $39 26— on land, $273 42 —348 slaves, $87 00—926 horses, $55 56—2 studs, $13 00—7 coaches, $12 00— 5 carryalls, $5 00— 2gigs, $1 00. Total, $488 24. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $87 00— in 1833, $166 47. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Calahan's P. O. 196 ms. from R. confluence with the Cow Pasture, and 238 ms. from W., situated at the! and directly opposite the termination junction of roads leading to thejof the Kanawha turnpike road. It Warm, Sweet and White Sulphur! contains besides the county buildings, Springs. :50 dwelling houses, and about the COVINGTON, P. V. and Seat' same number of mechanic shops. o/jMS/ice, 191 ms. W. of R. and 233 The buildings are principally of S. W. of W. Covington is situated atj brick, and in some of them much taste the head of the James river navigation I is displayed; 2 handsome and spa- ou Jackson's river, 15 ms. above its cious houses of public worship are WESTERN VIUOIMA— AI.LEcaiANY. 809 about being erected, ( I Presbyterian and 1 Methodist,) 1 English and Classical school, and 3 mercantile stores. The mechanics are tanners, saddlers, boot and shoe makers, hat- ters, tailors, gunsmiths, house carpen- ters, cabinet makers, wagon makers, copper smiths, chair makers, black- smiths and last makers. Its situation is handsome and eligible, on one of the greatest thoroughfares in Virgin- ia, as travellers from E. to W. pass throuofh this place to the Virginia Springs, it bemg nearly equi-distant from several, viz : — 20 ms. from the White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet Springs, 25 from the Hot Springs, 27 from the Warm Springs and 45 from the Salt Sulphur. Should the con- templated James and Kanawha im- provements be carried into operation, Covington may become one of the most flourishing inland towns in Vir- ginia, as it will probably be the place of depot between the land and water communication; and it likewise will command the trade of a large and fer- tile region of country, which abounds in all the products of the earth; and the mountains, of which abound in iron, and present sufficient water power, to force any quantity of ma- chinery. Its situation is healthy, being located in the midst of the mountains. Property in this place has lately advanced 25 per cent in anticipation of the contemplated im- provement. Population about 300 persons; of which 3 are attorneys, and 2 regular physicians. County Courts are held on the' od Monday in every month. Quar- terly in March. June, August and November. Judge Taylor holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 18//i of April and Se^^ tember. V^. Jackson River, P. O. 178 ms. I^? of R. and 221 S. W. by W. of W. Morris Hill, P. O. 181 ms, W. of R. and 227 from W. AUGUSTA. Augusta county was originally a portion of Orange county and coutinv, ued so, until it became sufficiently populous to claim the rights of a sepa^' rate, independent county, which rank was given to it in 1738. The first court after it was laid "off from Orange was held in Staunton, in the year 1745, and its jurisdiction extended from the summit of the Blue Ridge ta the Ohio river, including the present state of Kentucky, and from the James river to Frederick. ^ As the population increased, it became necessary to divide this immense tract into various counties, at dilTerent times, until it assumed its present shape and size in the year 1790. The summit of the Blue Ridge forms the eastern boundary, until it strikes the line of Rockbridge, the line then runs a straight course in a N. E. di- rection, crossing the North mountain, until it reaches the summit of Walk- er's mountain, following this and the Cow Pasture mountain in a N, W^ course, it strikes the corner of Rockingham, and runs thence in a S. W/ direction, a straight course to the Blue Ridge. The length of Augusta county is about 34 ms. : the breadth 35, — and its area about 348 sq. ms. extending entirely across the Valley. The surface is generally uneven, — in many places hilly ; and in some instances it rises into eminences that deserve the name of mountains. Towards the north- ern boundary, however, it spreads out into more extensive bottoms ot very 310 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. rich and fertile land. The soil is best adapted to agriculture and grazing. Large quantities of grain are raised for exportation, and there are within the county, 17 merchant mills, which are almost exclusively employed in manufacturing flour for this purpose. Cattle are also exported in conside- rable numbers. Although this county is well watered and abounds in fine springs, there are no very large streams, from the fact, that it is the highest land in the Valley, and divides the head waters of the James and Shenandoah rivers. The great Calf Pasture river runs through nearly half of the county, and wends its way in a S direction to the James river, while the north, middle and south rivers, (the last two of which run nearly through the whole extent of the county) meet near the northern boundary, and form the Shenandoah. Christian's and Lewis' creeks are branches of the Middle river, and Mossy creek of the N. These streams are all valuable, on ac- count of numerous mill seats upon them, which are always abundantly sup- plied with water. The mineral treasures of tliis county, have been but partially developed. Very little interest has been felt on this subject, except so far as it has been (juickened by a hope of gain. Iron ore beds have been known and profita- bly worked for many years; and there is at present a furnace for the manu- facturing and casting of iron in active operation; Miller's Iron Works, near the northern boundary, at the foot of the North mountain. Anthracite coal has lately been found in the vicinity of the Augusta Springs, and along the North mountain. It contains a portion of sulphur, though it becomes more pure as the excavation progresses, and gives pro- mise of affording an abundant supply of this valuable mineral. The predominant rock in this part of the A^alley is lime rock, which in some places is sufficiently hard to be used as marble, though it is not worked as such. In connection with this rock may be found rhombic chrystals of carhonite of lime, and dog-tooth spar: the latter rarely. In the vicinity of Staunton, a species ofcalcedony in great quantities is .scattered about: some of which is very pure. Springs are very abundant in all parts of the county, some of which are mineral and highly medicinal. The Augusta Springs are valuable, as a resort for invalids, and are daily becoming more noted. They are 12 ms. N. W. of Staunton, situated in a delightful country. The water is strongly impregnated Avith sulphuretted hydrogen, and are said by those who should be judges, to equal the cele- brated springs of Harrowgate, in England. Besides the Augusta Springs there are two other Sulphur Springs in the county, both of which are equal- ly strongly impregnated; but there are few, if any accommodations for visi- tors at either of them. One is on the Free turnpike leading from Staunton to the Warm Springs, 17 ms. from S. ; the other on the old road, 18 ms. from Staunton. A Chalybeate Spring has recently been discovered very near the Augus- ta Springs, but it has never been analyzed. About 12 ms. S. W. from Staunton, is a large spring that ebbs and flows daily; — there arc two similar springs in Bath. The whole of Augusta county is based upon lime rock, — and from the nature of that rock, necessarily contains many curious fissures, excavations and caverns. Only two of these, however, deserve a notice, Madison'-s and Wr-'ver'.'- cave'? wiiirji are both situntpd in tlip pamf -ridff,', and are but SOO WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. Zif yards apart. Madison's cave has been described by Jefferson,* in his notes on Virginia, but Weyer's has been described and explored since that time, and is liir more worthy of being immortalized. The length of this this stu- pendous Cavern in a straight course is 1650 ft., but the distance is more than doubled by following the various windings. There are numerous apart- ments, some of which arc magnificent. One measures 257 ft. in length, from 10 to 20 in breadth, and 33 in height,— another is 153 ft. long, 15 wide, and 60 high, while a third reaches the height of 100 feet ! Every part is stud- ded with beautiful stalactites, that lead you almost to believe that you have descended into the jewelled fruit garden, Avhere hung Alladin's lamp.f *We extract a portion of Mr, Jeflerson's descripticn which is referred to in the text, and give al.'^o some later information concerning Madison's Cove, " It is situat- ed on the N, side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and Atigusta line, with the south fork of the suiUhern river of Shenandoah. It is in a hill of about 200 ft, perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side is so steep that j'ou may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes it.s base. The entrance of the cave, is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends into the earth about 300 ft., branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes a.^scending a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly on a level with the waters of the river; however, I do )iot think they are formed by refluent waters from that, because they arc never turbid; because they do not rise and fall in correspondence with that, in times ot flood and of drought; and because the water is always cool. It is as probably one of the many reservoirs with which the interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 of M ft. high, through which Avater is continually percolating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has encru.sted them over in the form of elegant drapery; and dripping from the top of the vaults generates on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met and formed massive columns." Madison's Cave derives its name from the father of the late Bishop Madison, who resided near it, and who was equally famed for his hospitality, his practical wit, and his convivial disposition. It has been known 70 or 80 years, but is now little visited as a curiosity, — the earth in it, alTords salt petre in proportion of from 2 to 4 pounds to the bushel. — 2000 weight was manufactured here during the years 1813-4. The earth when brought otit is at the mouth of the cave put into a plank gutter which conducts it to the bank of the river, at the bottom of the hill, where it is put into tubs or vats mixed with wood ashes — water is passed through it, and this is evaporated to salt by boiling. The lakes of water which are found at the extremity of the cave have been navigated by a boat, and thoroughly explored, since Mr. Jefferson wrote; they are 30 or 40 ft. deep, and are bounded on the furthest extremity by rocks so abrupt that a footing can no where be had. tWeyer's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augusta county, Va. 17 ms. N. E. of Staunton, on the eastern side of a ridge runnnig nearly N. and S. parallel to the Blue Ridge, and somewhat more than a mile distant from it. The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visiter, as he approach- es from that direction, little imagines from its appearance, that it embowels one of Nature's master pieces. The eastern declivity however, is quite precipitous and dif- ficult of ascent. The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant 800 yds. from the entrance of the cave. In going from the house to the cave, you pass the entrance of Madison's Cave, which is only 200 yds. from the other. Madi- ison's Cave was known and visited as a curiosity, long before the discovery of Wey- er's, but it is now passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice comjiared with its more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jeflcrson to describe its beauties. The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the cave is steep, but is ren- dered less fatiguing, by the zigzag cour.se of the path, which is 120 yds. in length. It seems that about the year 1801, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hills, as a hunter; while pursuing his daily vocation, he found his match in a lawless Ground Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts but eventually succeeded in carrying off the 312 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. Population in 1820, 16,742—1830, 19,926. Augusta belongs to the 12th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $6659 24 — in 1834 on lots, $470 80— on land, $4,343 09—2,443 slaves, $610 75— 9,360 horses, $561 60—48 studs, $421 00—78 coaches, $187 85— 1 stage, $3 00— carryalls, $69 95—58 gigs, $39 15. Total, $6,717 19. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $883 59— in 1833, $963 74. traps, wliich had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made au assault upon the domicile of the drepredator, with spade and mattock. A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupendous cavern, where he found his traps safely deposited. The entrance originally was small and difficult of access; but the enterprise of the proprietor, has obviated these inconveniences: it is now enclosed by a wooden wall, having a door in its centre, which admits )rou to the ante-chamber. At first it is about 10 ft. in height but after proceeding a fe\v yards, in a S. W. di- rection, it becomes contracted lo the space of 4 ft. square. At the distance of 24 ft. from the entrance, — descending at an angle of 19 degrees ; you reach the Dragon's Room, so called from a slalactitic concretion, which the No- menclator undoubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal. Above the Dragon's room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small size, called the Devil's Gallery. Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly direction, to the entrance of Solomon's Temple, through a high but narrow pcssage, 66 ft. in length, which is by no means difficult of access. Here you make a perpen- dicular desceiu of 13 ft. by means of substantial stairs securely fixed, and you find yourself in one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being 30 ft. long, and 45 broad, running nearly at right angles to the main course of the cave. As you raise your eyes, after descending the steps before jnentioned they rest upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry incrustations, which sparkle beautifully in the light of your caudles. This is not linaptly styled, Solomon's Throile. Every thing in this room , receives its name from the Wi.>e Man ; immediately to the left of the steps, as you descend, you will find his Meat-house; and at the eastern extremity of the room, is a beautiful pil- lar of white stalactite, somewhat defaced by the smoke of candles, called by his name, yet with strange inconsistency, an mcrustation resembling falling water at the right of the steps, has obtained the name of the Falls of Niagara. Passing Solomon's Pillar, you enter another room, more irregular than the first, but still more beautiful; it would be impo.ssible adequately to describe the magnifi- cence of the roof. I shall therefore merely observe that it is thickly studded with beautiful stalactites, resembling in form_ and color, the roots of radishes, which have given the appellation of R.vdish Room to this delightful place. The niain passage to the rest of the cavern, is immediately opposite to the entrance to Solomon's Temple, and you reach it by an ascent of 1-3 ft. to what is called the Porter's Lodge. From this place, purstting the same coitrse, you pass along a pas- sage varying from 10 to 30 ft. in height, from 10 to 15 in breadth, and 50 in length, un- til you reach Barxey'.s Hall wliich receives its name lioin the fancied resemblance of a prostrate stalactite, at the base of one that is upright, to old Commodore Barney, and the cannon that he used at the Bladensburgh races. Near the centre of the room, which is small and scarcely deserves the name, an upright board points out to the visiter the main path of the cave, which rims to the right. Two passages run off to the lel't, — the first one So a large, irregular room cal- led the Lawyer's OrriCE, in which is a fine spring, of Avaier or rather a reservoir where the droppings from the ceiling have collected,— the other, through a passage to what is called The Armohv, from an incrustration that has received the name of Ajax's Shield. Between the Lawyer's Office and the Armory, and communicating Avith both, is another large, irregular apartment, which is named Weyek's Hall, af- ter the original discoverer of the cave, who together with his dog, stands immortal- ized in one corner. Before wc get bewildered and lost in this part of tjic cave, A^hich is more intricate than any other, let us return to the guide-board in the centre of Barney's Hall, and pursue the route usually taken by visiters. Following the right hand opening meit- tioned above, Avhich is rather low being not more than 5 ft. in height, you pass into the Twin Room, taking heed lest you fall into the Devil's Bake Oven, which yawns close by your feet. This room is small, and communic3,tes directly with the Bannis- ter Roo.M, wliich is 59 ft. distant from the guide-board. The arcli here suddenly ex- WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTyV. 313 TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Augusta Springs, P. O. 17 ms. N. N. W. of Staunton, 134 nns. N. W. by W. of R. and 176 from W. The waters have valuable medicinal qual- ities, which have been spoken of in our account of the county. Deerfilld, p. O. 148 ms. from R. and 190 S. W. of W., situated on pands, and becomes elevated to the height of 30 ft., and by dint of hard climbing you may return to the Porter's Lodge, through a passage directly over the one which you have just passed. There are many beauties in this upper pas.sage. A descent of 39 ft. from the Twin Room, in a direction due west, brings you into the Tan Y.\rd, which contains many beauties. The floor is irregular, in some places sinking into holes someM^hat resembling tan-vats, which together with several hang- ing stalactites resembling hides, have given a name to this immense apartment. On the S. E. side of the room, immediately to the left of the main path, is a large opening which admits you at once into the Armory, already mentioned. Changing your course to the N. W. you leave the Tan Yard, by a rough, but not difficult ascent of 20 ft., at an angle of 18 degrees, into what may be considered as an elevated continuation of the same room, but which has been deservedly dignified with a distinct appcllalion. To your right, as you step upon level ground, you will observe a perpendicular wall of rock, rising with great regularity; if you strike upon it with your hand, it sends forth a deep, mellow sound, strongly resembling the tones of a Bass Drum, whence the room has received the name of the Drum Room. Upon a clo.ser exami- nation, this apparent wall will be found to be only a ihm stalactitic partition, extend- ing from the ceiling to the tloor. There is nothing else of much interest, in this apartment, we will proceed to the more magnificent portions of the cavern. You leave the Drum Room by a flight of natural stairs, 7 ft. in perpendicular height. A large opening now presents itself, which expands to an extensive apart- ment, to reach which it is necessary to make a nearly perpendicular descent of 10 ft., by means of a substantial pair of stairs. This apartment is the far famed Ball Room. It is 100 ft. long, 3G wide, and about 25 high, running at right angles to the path by which you entered it. The general course of the room is from N. to S. but at the northern extremity there is a gradual ascent, bearing round to the E. until you reach a precipice of 20 or 30 ft., from which you can looic down into the Tan Yard, having performed a complete circuit. Near the centre of the Ball Room, is a large, calcarious deposite, that has received the name of Paganini's Statue, from the circumstance that it furnishes a good posi- tion for the music, v.'henever balls arc given in these submundane regions. The floor is sufiiciently level to admit of dancing upon it, and it is not uncommon, to have balls here. The "ladies are accommodated with a very convenient Dressing Room, the only opening to which, communicates directly with the Ball Room. You leave this room, by a gradual ascent of 42 ft. at the southern extremity, simi- lar to the one already described at the other. This acclivity is called the French- man's Hill, from the following circumstance :— Some years since, a French gentle- man visited this cave, accompanied only by the guide; they had safely gone through, and returning had reached the top of this hill, when by some accident both of their lights were extinguished, and they were left in Egyptian darkness, without the means of re-lighting their candles. Fortunately the Guide, from his accurate knowledge of localities, was enabled to conduct him safely to the entrance — a distance of more than 500 ft. Another gentleman, by the name of Patterson, has immortalized his name by at- tempting the same feat, although it was a complete failure. Hearmgof the French- man's adventure, he undertook to find his way back to the entrance, from the Ball Room, without a light— sending his company some distance ahead. Hs succeeded in ascending the stairs, but had proceeded only a few paces farther, when his feet slipped from under him, and he was prostrated into an aperture, where he lay unhurt until his companions, alarmed at his protracted absence, returned for him. His rest- ing place is called Patterson's Grave *to this day. From the French Hill, a long, irregular passage extends, in a N. W. direction which is denominated the N.vkrow Passace. This passage is 52 ft. m length —vary- ing from 3 to 5 ff. in width,— and from 4 to 8 ft. in height. It leads you to the briiik of a precipice, 12 ft. in height. 40 ill WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. the waters of the Calf Pasture river, in the CaU" Pasture Valley, between the North and Cow Pasture moun- tains, 4 ms. E. of the county line of Bath ; on the main stage road between Stauntoa and the Warm Springs, 26 ms. W. of the former, and 29 E. of the latter. The Warm Springs and Harrisonburg turnpike also passes Beerfield. It contains a tavern, mer- cantile store and blacksmith's shop. Greenville, P. V. 133 ms. N. Natural indentations in the face ofthis precipice, afibrd a convenient means of de- scent, and these natural steps have received the name of Jacob's Ladder. To corres- pond with this name, as in Solomon's Temple, every thing is named after the Patri- arch; a flat rock opposite to the extremity of the Narrow Passage, is Jacob's Tea Table; and a deep, inaccessible perforation m the rock, by its side, is Jacob's Ice House ! Descending the ladder you turn to the left, and pass through a narrow open- ing, still continuing to descend though less perpendicularly, to the centre of a tmall apartment, called the Dungeon. The descent from the top of the Ladder to this place is 28 feet. This room communicates, by a passage about 4 ft. sq. with the Senate Chamber. A thin flat rock, stretches over nearly half of this apartment, which is only about 40 ft. in diameter, at the height of 8 or 10 ft. from the floor, forming a sort of Gallery, which doubtless caused the name already mentioned, to be given to the room. The Senate Chamber communicates by a high, broad opening, with a still larger apartment, denominated Congress Hall. This name must have been given, on account of its proximity to the last mentioned room, and not from any thing particitlarly appropriate in the room itself. It is long, and like the Ball Room, runs iiearly at right angles to the main path, — its course being nearly N. and S. and a wall, having several openings, runs through its whole length. The main path winds to the left as you enter the room, but we will diverge a little to the right, and explore the daik recess that presents itself to vieAV. The floor of Congress Hall is very uneven, and at the northern extremity rises somewhat abruptly. Climbing tbis.ascent if you pass through one of the opcning.s in the wall mentioned above, 3'ou will be able to see through the whole extent of the other half of the room, but it is impossible to traverse it, on occount of two or three deep pits, that occupy the whole space between the wall and the side of the room. Turning around to the right ot the opening through which you passed, your eye vainly attempts to penetrate the deep, daik abyss that presents itself, and you hesitate to descend. Its name — The Infernal Regions, does not offer many inducements to en- ter it, and for many years, ft has been supposed to contain fixed air, so that visiters avoid it, and it has never until recently, been thoroughly explored. Our course now lies to the S. W. up a perpendicular ascent of 17 ft., to what is called the Lobby. From this place, an expert climber, well acquainted with the cave, may pass through secret passages, and bye rooms, to the end of the cave, Avith- out once entering the main path, btit we will pursue the accustomed route. You have ascended to the Lobby, only to descend again on the other side, after taking a few steps horizontally. A perpendicular descent of 17 ft., brings you to the most magnificent apartment in the whole cavern. This is Washington's Hall, .so called in token of respect for the memory of our Country's Father, and it is worthy of bearing the name. Its length is 2.57 ft., its breadth from 10 to 20 ft., and itsjieight about 33 ft. being remarkably level and straight, through the whole length. Not far from the centre of this room, is an immense deposite of calcarious matter rising to the height of 6 or 7 ft. which, very strikingly resembles a statue clothed in drapery, "rhis is Washington's Statue, and few can look upon it— as seen by the dim light ot two or three candles Avhich rather stimulate than repress curiosity, Avith- out experiencing a sensation of aAve and solemnity, as if they Avere actually in the presence of the mighty dead. A fcAv yards from the entrance, another room branches off" to the left, to reach which you must ascend a bank of 5 or 6 ft. in height. This is called the Theatre irom the fact that diflorcnt parts of the room correspond to the Gallery, Stage and I have said tlial the breadth of Wasliington's Hall Avas from 10 to 20 ft.; this must '>n ""^^^■?^"'^", oi'ly of flie ioAver part, of the room, for the arch stretches over a rock 20 It. high, which forms the left Avail, and embraces another room called Lady Wash- ington s Hall. The entrance to this apartment, is opposite to the Statue, and is on WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. ?l-5 W. by W. of R. luul 1 7o from VV. It is pleasantly situated in the southern part of the county, 11 ms. S. S. VV^. of Staunton, and within a mile and a half of the. head of South River, Avhioh there is an extensive nnianufactnring (lour mill, and a wollen manufactory. Two physicians reside in the vicini- ty. The town contains about 50 welling- houses, 3 general stores. 2 runs through the town ; and on which taverns, 1 academy, 2 lanyards, 2 sad- the same level with the Hall. The wall that separates the two rooms, is several feet thick, and has received the stranp;e name of The Rock of Gibraltar. You leave this splendid apartment, at the S. W, extremitj'-, by a rough, narrow but high pa';.sai^f, nmning at the foot of Uie Pyramids of Egypt and Cleopatra's Needle! At the end of thi.s passage, in a recess at the rigjit, is anotlier Spring or reservoir, not as large as the one in the Lawyer's Oliice. A descent of 8 or 10 ft. brings you into the Di.\Mo\D Room, which may be considered as forming ft part of The Chcrch, a long, irregular room, more lofty than any that we have yet entei-ed. Its length is 152 feet, its breadth from 10 to 15, and its height 50! At the farthest extremity, a beautiful while spire shoots up to a. considerable height, which is appropriately styled The Steeple, and has, no doubt, suggested the name of the room. Nearly oppo.^ite to the centre ot the Church, is a recess, raised several ft. of considerable extent. This forms a very gj )1 Criliory to the Church. Immediately in the rear of the Gillery, and in full view from below, is a great number of pendant stalactites, of several ft. in length, and of various sizes ranged like the pipes of an organ, and bear- a striking resemblance to them. If thcie stalaclitcs arc struck by any hard substance, they send forth sounds of va- rious pitches, according to their size, and a stick run rapidly along several of them at once, produces, a verv pleasing varietv of sounds. With great propriety this is called The Organ. Passing under the Steeple, which rests on an arch elevated not more than 10 feet, you enter the Dixing Room. This room is nataed from a long natural table, that stands on the left side, and is not quite as large as the Church, though its height is 60 ft. Was it not for the kind of wall which the Steeple makes, it might be considered as a continuation of the Church, and its length is therefore included in" that of the Church. A little to the left of the table is a small uninviting opening. Proceeding only a few paces through the opening, vou suddenly find yourself in an immense Chamber, stretching from i\vi Gallery of the Church with which it communicates, parallel to the Dining Room, to its ut'mo.-t extremity, and proportionably Avidc. This is called Jackson's Room, and the floor is very irregular. This room is rather uninteresting, but it leads to one that deserves a passing nqtice. Directly opposite the little passage" which conducted you hither, is a large opening; passing this, the rocks contract iintil only a narrow pass is left, a few feet in lengtn. This conducts you, if not to the most magnificent, at least to the most beautiful and interesting portion of the whole cavern. There is but one apartment and that is small, but The GvnDKN- of Ede.v, for so it is called, derives its beauty from the singu- lar arrangement of the immense stalactites, hangin? from the roof, and meeting the stalagmites, whicli ha\-o ascended from the floor to meet them; or in few -lyords, it seems as if at som: former period a sheet of water had poured dovcn from the roof and by soin- wonderful operation of Nature, had become suddenly petrified. This sheet is not continuous, but strongly resembles the folds of heavy drapery, and j'ou may pass among the windings as through the mazes of a labyrinth, arid the light of a candle shines distinctly through any part of it. A portion of the floor of this room, is composed of a beautitul, fine yellow sand, wh-reas mi^t of the cave is a stift'clay, with very few indications of sand. Returning to the Dining Room, the next rojm, or perhaps it should be called pas- sage is denominated The Wii.de«nes.s, from the roughness of the path-way, and Is onU-'lO ft wide, but it rises to the immense height of 90 or 100 feet! As we come aloii" the Causewav, and look down upjn our right, we shall see our company 40 to 5') ft" below us whih- our eves can scarcely penetrate through the darkness, to U^e ceiliu" above their heads. Upon the very verge of the rock upon which we are stand- in- are several beautiful white stalagmites, grouped togetner, among which, one stands preeminent. This is Bonaparte with his Body Guard, cro3.sing the A Ips The etlect is pcculiarlv fine, when viewed from below. . Proceeding only a few pncc"; from the Emperor, yon imd vnurspll upon an arcn, 316 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. dlers, 2 tailors, 1 blacksmith shop, 1 cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, I sad- dle tree maker, 3 house carpenters, 1 hatter, and 4 boot and shoe makers. Population about 250 persons.* Jenning's Gap, P. O. a gap in North Mountain, in the northern part of the county, 133 ms. from R. 162 S. W. by W. of W. and 12 from Staunton. There are located here several houses, among which are a tavern and mercantile house of long standing. MiDDLEBROOK, P. V. siluatcd in the southern part of the county, 10 ms. S. S. W. of Staunton, 174 S. W. under which your company are passing, which is very appropriately called The Natural Bridge. You are nov; upon the lowest level of the cave, and at the enirance of the farthest room. This is Jefferson's Hall, an extensive, but not very elevated apartment, quite level. Before 1 describe this room, we must diverge a little, and visit one or tAvo rooms, that branch oil' from the main path. Directly to your right, as you emerge from the Wilderness, there rises an immense mass, apparently of solid stalagmite, 36 ft, in length, 30 ft. in breadth, and 30 ft. in height; tliis mass is beautiful beyond de- scription, very much resembling successive stories, and is called The Tower of Ba- bel ! The most splendid poition of the Tower, is on the back, but it is dilhcult of ac- cess, for it is necessary to climb up the surface of the rock to the height of 15 or 20 ft. the view however, amply repays you for the labor. For a few moments, you can scarcely convince yourself that an immense body of water is not pouring over the precipice in a foaming cataract, so white, so dazzling is the effulgence of the rock; and when this impression is effaced the words of the pious Bard rush into the mind, v/here he describes the awful effects that will Ibllow the consummation of all things ; "The Cataract, that like a Giant wroth, Rushed down impetuously, as seized at once By sudden frost, with all his hoary locks, Stood still!! One might alm.ost imagine, that Pollok had visilcd this wonder, and caught the idea so forcibly expressed above, from viewing this magnificent scene. We have already so much exceeded our intended limits, that we can only look into the large apartment, that occupies the space behind the Tower, which is called Sir Walter Scott'r Room, and then hasten back to the main path. Jefferson's Room, that we left some time since, is very irregular in shape, and is 235 ft. long, following the various windings. What is commonly called the end of the cave, is distinguished by two singular, thin, lamellar rocks, 5 or (5 feet in diameter united at their bases, but spreading out so that the outer edges are several feet apart; this is called The Fly Trap! To the left of the Fly Trap, is a large recess, Avhere is a fine spring, at which the weary visiter is glad to slake his thirst, after the fatigues of his arduous undertaking. A few yards beyond the Fly Trap, there is an opening in the solid wall, at the height of about 12 ft. through which you are admitted by a temporary ladder. By hard climbing you soon penetrate to the end of the recess, where you will find the Source of the Nile I This is a beautiful, limped Spring covered over with a thin pel- licle of stalagmite, yet sufficiently strong to bear your wciglit;— in this ciufc.t theie is a perforation that gives you access to the water beneath. At all seasons, the air of the cave is damp, but the dampness of the floor depends much upon the seasons; if you except a moist place near the Fly Trap, there is no standing water throughout all the cavern, so that no difficultv on that acconnt occurs. The temperature remains invariably in all parts, at about 56 degrees of Farenheit, from which it follows, that if the cave is visited in the winter, its air feels quite warm; but if in .summer, a proportionable degree of cold is experienced. The spring and fall are the best times for visiting, for then the atmosphere without, is nearly ol' the same temperature with that within the cave, and it is more drv at these times. *The Cyclopean Tower.s.— On a fine morning in September 1634, a partv of which the writer was one, consisting for the most part of gentlemen who had met together in the town of Staunton from various sections of the Union, resolved on a visit to certain remarkable natural structure.s which lay in the neighborhood of the Augusta Springs, and about twenty miles distant from the place of their departure. After passing over a hilly and picturesque countrv, the road opened upon a fertile WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUrUJSTA. 317 by W. of W. and 1 32 from R. Carr's Brook divides the town. This vil- lage is tljriviag and contains about 30 dwelling- honses, some of them about 150 persons; of whom 1 is a physician. Moi'NT Mkkipian, p. O. 118 ms. from R. and 147 from W., situated in handsome brick buildings, 1 house ofjthe western part of the county, on the public worship, free for all denomina- main stage road leading from Staun- tions, 1 common school, 1 tavern, 3 ton, to Port Republic, 17 ms. N. E. of miscellaneous stores, 1 tanyard, 2 tai- lors, 1 cabinet maker, 1 cooper, 1 house carpenter, 1 wheelwright, 2 boot and shoe factories. Population the former, and 2^ from Weyer's Cave. It contains 8 dwelling houses, 1 miscellaneous store, 1 blacksmith's shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker valley, which though in places narrow, was of considerable lenpfth, — and when seen from an elevated position, appeared like the bed of an ancient lake, or as it really is, the alluvial border of a flowing stream. The strata of limestone hills, followed their usual order of parallel lines to the great mountains of our continent, as though a strong current had once swept through this magnificent valley, forming in its course islands and promontories, which are now discoverable in numerous short hills and rock"}' blufl's, that are eitheir naked and barren, or covered with a growth of stately- trees. It was at such a projection, that we first descried the gray summits of what seemed a ruinous caslle, — resembling those which were raised in feudal times to guard the passes of the Rhine, or like such as are still seen in mouldering majesty, on many an Alpine rock. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, lifted their heads above the lofty elms, like so many antique chimnies in the midst of a grove; but, on approaching them nearer, our pleasure was greatly increased, to find them rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a small stream, which winding around their base, serves as a natural moat to a building not made with mortal hands. The southern front of this colossal pile, presents a wall of about sixty feet elevation, terminating in three towers of irregular height, and perforated at its base by a cav- ern, — which, by an apt association, was denominated " Vulcan's Forge." The tower on the extreme right, was unanimously called " Cocke's Tov-rr" — in honor of one of our party who ascended it. On the left, are two other isolated towers, — of which the centre or smaller one was distinguished as the " IlymcnialAlk/r," — a name which had its origin partly in ajen d'esprit, and partly on account of a shady boAver in its rear, which seemed an appropriate shade to mantle maiden's blushes. The furthest and tallest, received the title of the " Tower of Babel.' This is also the most perpendicular of all these rocky structures; an archway passes through it, by whi -h there is an easy ascent to the remaining two, which stand on the acclivity of the hill, — and though of less altitude, are not of inferior beauty to the rest. One of them, which is of a round form, and flat at the top. and on that account received the appellation of the " Table Tioclc" — atfords from its summit a splendid view of the whole; the other, and last of the five, we distinguished as '• Shelloii's Rod," — from one of our party. These rocks in their formation resemble the palisades on the Hudson river — but are more regular in their strata, — which appear to have been arranged in huge masses of perfect workmanship — with projections like cornices of Gothic architecture, in a state of dilapidation. Those who are acquainted with the structure of the Cyclopean walls of the ancients, would be struck with the resemblance, — which suggested the name at the head of this article. We pause to inquire why these primeval fragments of the world have remained so long unnoticed! Why is it that men are so easily awakened to the liveliest interest in distant objects, and yet neglect those which are nearer and more accessible'? "A prophet" it hath been said on high authority, '-hath honor save in his own country," and to that strange propensity of the mind to contemn whatever is familiar, must be attributed the neglect of many of the richest treasures at our own door, which fre- quently impart both wealth and distinction to foreign enterprise. For many years these towers have been known in the surrounding country, by the homely appellation of " The Chimxev.s," — but no one has ever stopped to examine them, or to inquire how nature formed so curious a pile in such a spot. Imagination may indeed con- ceive that this noble structure was once the Scijlla of a narrow strait connecting the waters of the N. and the S. until th^ir accumulated pressure burst through the Blue Ridge at Harper's Ferry, and left in their subsidence these towers, as a perpetual memorial of their former dominion. 318 WESTERN VIRGINIA— AUGUSTA. 1 manufacturing flour mill (Whit more's,) and 1 Methodist house of worship. Population 50. Mount Syonev, P, V. 131 ms. from R. and 153 S. W. by W. of W. situated on the main stage road lead- ing from Staunton to Winchester, 10 ms. N. E. of the former. It contains 30 dwelling houses, 3 miscellaneous stores, 1 handsome hotel, 1 house of public worship, free for all denomina- tions, a male and female academy, 1 lanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 hatter, 1 milliner, 1 cabi- net and chair maker, and 1 pottery the first court was held in 1745, and this was the beginning of Staunton. It was not legally recognized as a town until 1761. The grant of Beverly was divided off into lots by the county, and soon became settled"; more being required, Beverly caused several lots to be sur- veyed, adjoining this grant, which survey bears the date of 1749, and shows the early increase of the place. Staunton originally occupied only the level land upon the borders of the creek, but it has become gradually extended, until it has surmounted the Population 190 persons; of whom 2] surrounding hills, and now rescm are physicians New Hope, P. V. 114 ms. from R. and 152 S. W. by W. of W. This little village contains several dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 apothe- cary shop, 1 house of public worship, free for all denomination.s, 2 taverns, 2 tailors and 1 house joiner. Popu- lation 40 persons: of whom 2 aie physicians bles an amphitheatre in form. The streets are quite regular, running at right angles, and have specific names, but like many other old towns, they are too narrow. This probably arises from the necessity that existed when they were founded, of living as com- pactly as possible, that the inhabitants might more easily repel the incursions of a savage enemy, who dwelt in the Spring Farm, P. O. 151 ms. S. W. 'surrounding forests and mountains by W. of W. and 122 from R. [It became a corporate borough in STAUNTON, P. V. and Cow/(.///i 1801, having a mayor, G aldermen Seat, 163 ms. S. W. of W. 121 N.land 4 common council men. W. by W. of R. and 40 a little N. of; At present it contains about 200 W.from Charlottesville: situated in lat.l dwelling houses, exclusive of stores, 38° 9' N. and in long. 2° 03' W. of! shops, offices, «&c. and its population, W., on one of the extreme head bran- accordinof to the census of 1830, is ches of the E. fork of Shenandoah river. It stands on the fine valley between the Blue Ridge and Kitta- linny, or between the Blue Ridge and North mountain chains, a little N. of Madison and Weyer's cave. With the e.vception of Winchester, Staunton is the oldest town W. of the Blue Ridge. Sometime previous to the laying off of Augusta from Orange, a grant of 120,000 acres of land was made to Wm. Beverly, Esq. comprising the 2,000. There are 13 dry good stores, 1 book store, 1 druggist's store, 1 confectioner, 4 groceries, 2 carriage makers, 2 wagon makers, 2 saddlers, 7 blacksmiths, 3 tanyards, 3 hatters, 2 chair makers, 4 tinners, 1 copper smith, 1 gun smith, 1 threshing ma- chine maker, 3 cabinet makers, 2 watch makers, 1 pottery and 5 tailor.s, besides the various other trades usual- ly followed in a place of this size. There is 1 printing office, from which issues a valuable weekly paper; and greater part of the present county. I which is occasionally engaged in the Beverly gave to the countjr when it; publication of books and pamphlets, was formed 2."> acres, situated upon' There are also 12 attorneys, 6 regu- Lewis' creek, on which to builil a (*. l;ir phvsicians, and 3 ministers of the FI and found a count v fosvn. Here o-ospel. The churclies at which WESTERN VIRCUNIA— BATTL 819 these luiuisters officiate belong to tlie Presbyterian, Episcopalian and. Me- thodist denominations, and are all handsome brick buildings. The pub- lic edifices are a C. H.* and jail, built of stone, a Chancery C. H., a county clerk's office, and a market house, all built of brick, and there are also 4 ex- tensive hotels. Much attention is paid to education in this place, and many young per- sons of both sexes, are sent here from all parts of the country, to attend the various schools. There are 2 female seminaries, and a male academy; all of which employ respectively several teachers, and are in a flourishing con- dition, besides 4 primary schools. The Western Lunatic Hospital is located in Staunton, and is a noble pile of buildings: it is sufficiently com- modious to accommodate 37 lunatics, but is at the present time, being en- larged, by the addition of two exten- sive wings, which, when completed, will accommodate 40 more. An act has passed the General As- sembly, authorising the establishment also, of a Deaf and Dumb Asylum as soon as funds can be procured for that purpose. Lewis' creek runs through the cen- tre of the town, and has sufficient fall to turn a chopping mill, a grist mill and a carding machine. There is still .sufficient unemployed water pow- er to drive a cotton or woollen facto- ry of considerable extent, and an en- terprising capitalist might profitably invest some portion of his capital in that business. County Cowts arc held on the Ath Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, May, August and Oc- tober. Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the lO/A of June and November, by Judge Thomspon. Steel's Tavern, P. O. 138 ms. from R. and 180 from W. Waynesboro' P. V. 109 ms. from R. and 150 from W., situated at the western foot of the Blue Ridge, on South river. Waynesboro' is an in- dustrious and wealthy little village, located in a beautiful and picturesque situation, in a fertile and well watered country, on the main stage road lead- ing from Charlottesville to Staunton, 30 ms. N. W. of the former, and 12 E. S. E. of the latter. The present town is called W^aynesboro', junior, (Waynesboro', senior, lying a little N. having fallen into ruins.) It con- tains 7ft dwelling houses, 5 mercan- tile stores, 2 houses of public worship, (1 Methodist and I Presbyterian,) I incorporated academy, 1 common school and public library, 1 extensive manufacturing flour mill and a wool carding machine, 1 hotel (kept in the best style,) 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 tailors, 1 hatter, 1 silver smith and watch maker, 1 wagon maker, 1 chair maker, 2 cabinet makers, 3 boot and shoe factories, and 3 blacksmith's shops. Population not less than 500 persons: of whom 4 arc regular phy- sicians. BATH. Bath County was created by the Legislature in 1791 from a portion of Augusta, Bottetourt and Greenbrier. It is bounded by Augusta on the E. — Rockbridge on the S. E. — Alleghany on the S. and S. W. — Greenbrier on the W^. — Pocahontas on the N. W., and Pendleton on the N. Its ex- Sincc this was written, the I'ourt has coiitiactcd for the erection of a new C II. which will be unquestionably the finest building of the kind in any county in tlje state. 320 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. tent, from a ridge of the North mountain on the S. E., to the main Alle- ghany ridge on the N. W. is 25 miles, and from Pendleton on the N. E. to Alleghany on the S. W. 40 miles ; and area 756 square miles. Ex- tending in lat. from 37° 50' to 38° 25' N. and in long. 2° 18' to 3° W. of W. C. The face of the country is very broken and in great part mountainous, being situated at the eastern base of the great Alleghany ridge : about one-eighth of it may be considered arable land, the mean elevation of which is 1200^feet above the ocean. It is well watered by Jackson's river, and its tributary, Back creek, (the latter washing the base of the Alleghany mountain,) and by the Cow Pasture river, and its tributary, the Bull Pas- ture, all of which have their sources in Pendleton county. Jackson river and the Cow Pasture, afterwards forming a junction in Bottctourt county, their united stream is styled James river. Into these streams descend from the mountains numerous branches and rivulets,* affording innumerable sites for mills and machinery. Each of those streams are separated by a mountain running parallel thereto, none of which are considerable or known by any name, beyond the limits of the county, except Jacksoii's or the Warm Spring mountain. They are not remarkable for their height, and excepting the one already mentioned do not exceed Irom 300 to 500 feet from their base, and are by no means sterile: the soil on them being tolerably good, and neither too rocky or too steep for tillage ; producing the most valuable kinds of timber, an extraordinary variety of shrubbery and herbage, and abounding in limestone, iron ore, and springs of excel- lent water. But it is as a grazmg ground that they are chiefly valuable. Large herds of catlle, ranging on them in the summer months. The vallies between the mountains, which are from 2 to 5 miles wide, are very fertile, a considerable portion entirely level, and in a fine state of cultivation, producing abundant crops of grain and hay. The average produce per acre, being as follows, to wit. wheat and rye 20 to 30 bushels; Indian corn 25 to 40; oats 20 to 30 ; buckwheat, and barley 25; potatoes and turnips 100 bushels; flax, 200 lbs.; hemp 800 lbs.; and hay one to two tons. The meadows are particularly fine, and the kinds of grass cul- tivated are, timothy, clover, and blue grass, all of which flourish exceed- ingly. A soil so well adapted to grain and grass, naturally induced the proprietors to turn their attention to live stock. Accordingly, horses, mules, cattle, (of the finest breeds) sheep and hogs are raised, and a con- siderable number of them annually driven to market. Connected with the management of live stock, is the dairy, which is here well understood. Large quantities of butter are made and sent to market. Wool also is an article of which the quantity made is greater than the consumption, and is increasing. Om of the flax and wool which they grow, the inhabitants of this county manufacture all the clothing worn by themselves and the ♦Among the.sc, Falling Spring Creek deserves notice. It rises in the Warm Spring mountains about 20 miles S. W. of the "Warm Springs, and flows into that valley. About three-quarters of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock 200 feet into the valley below. The sheet of Avater is broken in its breadth by the rock in two or three places, but not at all in its height. — Between the sheet and rock at the bottom one may Ava)k across dry. This cataract will bear no comparison with that of Niagara as to ti'-' -tjuantity of water composing it — the sheet being only 12 or 15 feet wide above, and somewhat more below, but it is half as high again. The latter being only 1.^6 feet according the mensuration made by order of Mons. Vaudreuil, GovcrJior of Canada, and 130 according to a more recent account. WESTEllN VIRGINIA— BATH. 321 slaves on their farms. The soil and climate are particularly favorable to fruit trees, and produce, apples and peaches in great abundance; every farm having an orchard. Gardening is also practised to an extent equal to the demand for family use In a section of country so much diversified with mountain.s and vallics, abounding with mineral T3nd other springs, pure air, and a temperate cli- mate, heaUh and longevity may be expected. This is actually the case, and in this respect it is not surpassed by any part of the United States. In this county there are 2 attorneys, 2 physicians, 4 stores, 3 merchant- mills, 18 grist mills, 16 saw mills, 4 carding machines, 3 tan yards, 2 tilt- hammers, and 1 distillery. Population in 1820, 5',237— in 1830, 4,002. Bath belongs to the 17th judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, 8837 24 — in 1834. on lot.s, 86 cts. — on land, $463 69— 634 slaves, $1-58 50 — 2,1 17 horses. $127 02— 10 studs, S73 00—6 coaches. SI 4 00—5 carryalls, 85 00—2 giga, $1 00 — Total, $848 07. Expended in educating poor children m 1832, $142 53— in 1833, $203 75. TOWNS, VILLAGES. POST OFFICES, «kc Bull Pasture, P. O. 164 miles; from R. and 206 from W. This is the local name given to the higher part of Cow Pasture river, or the middle constituent of the James-. It rises in Pendleton and flows S. 20° W. to its confluence with the Cow Pasture in Bath. It is about 20 ms. in length, 10 of which distance is in each of the two counties. In that portion of the Bull Pasture valley, which lies in Bath, there, are located 37 dwelling houses, 1 Presbyterian house of worship, 1 school, 1 mer- cantile store, a saddler, tailor, tilt- hammer, and manufacturing mill ; and a population of about 370 persons. The principal occupation of the in- habitants is agriculture. In this neighborhood there is a large spring of limestone water, to which no bot- tom has as yet been found. It rises between two large rocks, from under a bank covered with spruce pine, and is called the Blue Spiing. After running about 40 yards, it discharges itself into the Bull Pasture, on the west side, about 3 ms. Jrom its junc- tion with the Cow Pasture. On that part of the Bull Pasture, which lies beyond the Bath and Pen- dleton line, are situated 63 dwFJIing 41 houses, 2 houses of public worship ( 1 Metliodist, and the other free hi all denominations,) 1 mercantile store, 1 tanyard, and various mechan- ics 1^8 whole population is 630 per- sons, oneof whom is a physicians. Flowing Spring, P. 6. 206 ms. S. W. of W. and 164 N. W. of R.. situated in the valley of the Cow Pasture, 16 ms. N. E. of the Warm Springs. There is no town or vil= lage at the place, and the spring is private property. This spring inter- raits, or ebbs and flov,-s, affording when the tide is up. sufficient water for a grist mill, and when it ebbs, leaves a stream large enough for the supply of a distillery and a tanyard. The water is of the purest and best quality, equal in temperature to ice water. In the dryest weather in sum- mer, the water flows out in a bold and majestic stream, that astonishes those who have witnessed the spring which is left after it falls away. When the flowing commences, the water comes [in a body as if let loose from a dam. Issuing from the rocks at the foot of a hill, it continues to run for ten or twelve hour" "'\a gradually declines. There is no regularity in the flow- ing ■ in the same ki?xl of weather it >22 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. will vary from two to three days, — | sometimes flowing every daj^ — at other times at intervals ot two or{ three days. Neither is there any particular period of time at v/hich the water rises. This irregularity has created the greatest difficulty in accounting for it. A mill, a distillery, and tanyard are supplied with water from this spring. I Grf.en Valley, P. O. 1-57 ras.l N. W. hy W. of R. and 19.9 S. W.i by W. of W., situated on Stewart's! creek, a branch of the Cow Pasture river, 12 ms. E. of the Warm Springs,! on the main post road. | Hot Springs, P. O. 217 ms. S.| W.by W. of W. and 175 N. W. byj W. of R. — situated between the Cow Pasture and the eastern branch of Jackson's river, at the base of a lofty mountain of the same name, 5 ms. S. S. W. of the V/arm. Springs, and 57 S. W. by W. of Staunton, on the main post road leading from Richmond to Guyandotte on the Ohio. These springs are numerous, probably amounting to twenty, issuing from the hill upon which the hotel is situated, and all varying in their temperature, presenting every variety, from 51° to 107°. As yet however there have been only three baths constructed. One called the hot bath or boiler, over which there has been erected a large and handsome building, con- taining fifteen rooms ; a portion of which together with one-half of the Bath, is appropriated exclusively to ladies, and the residue with the oth^'r half of the bath to gentlemen. The second bath is called the Spout, from a pipe of water of the temperature of 106°, which falls mto the body of the bath, from a height of 7 or 8 feet from its bottom. The third is called the Temperate Bath. Its tempera- ture always corresponding with that of the blood of the human system ; over this spring is now in progress of erection an octagonal house, nearly 120 feet in the clear, with convenient dressing rooms attached. The ac- commodations though considerably improved in the last two years, are still very defective. The property, hovi-ever has been recently purchased by Dr. Goode, who has commenced itsimprovem.ent on an extensive scale, and will probably in the course of two years have a sufficient number of buildings erected to accommodate all who are desirous of obtaining re- lief from the waters. These waters are principally celebrated for their efficacy in cutaneous, rheumatic, dj^speptic, and liver affections. They are however resorted to lor every species of disease, and perhaps there is none in which one or the other of the baths have not proved beneficial. There are no local improvements at the Hot Springs, excepting those mentioned. The country around to a considerable extent being the pro- perty of an individual, it has pre- vented the settlement of mechanics, merchants, or professional men. The proprietor, Dr Goode, is himself an eminent physician. Three miles S. W. of the Hot Springs, are situated what arc called the Healing Springs. They have not yet come fully into notice, but have of late met with considerable attention, and it is confidently believ- ed by those who are acquainted with the efficacy of their waters, to be the best in the United States. They consist of several small warm springs. They have never been analized, but have performed some very extraordinary cures where the other mineral springs have failed. ivIiLBORo' Spring, P. V. 157 m;?. from R. and 199 S. W. by W. of W. Milboro' is a small village situated on the free turnpike road, leading from Staunton, through Panther's -Gap, to the Warm Springs, — 6 ms. W. of the Gap, 13 E. of the Springs, 22 N. W. of Lexington, and 1| from Cow Pasture river, which is naviga- ble from this point hy boats for three WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. months in the year. It contains 25 buildings, several of which are of brick, a mercantile store, tavern, manufacturing- flour mill, blacksmith and tikhammer shop, (on an exten- sive scale,) 1 wagon maker, and 1 hatter. The situation of this village is pleasant and eligible, — near a sul- phur spring, which has been famed for the medicinal qualities of its waters, and was formerly much fre- quented. This is a place of consi- derable business, being located in a thickly settled neighborhood, sur- rounded by handsome and fertile farms, producing all kinds of grain and stock. One mile from this vil- lage, on the right hand side of the turnpike leading to the Warm Springs, is situated the Blowing Cave. Near the north bank of the Cow Pasture river, between the cave and Milboro', stands a house of public worship, called the Wind Cave Bleeting Home, which is free for all deaomi- nations. A turnpike road is being made from this place to Lexington, a considerable portion of which is al- read}' in operation. RUCKMANVILLE, P. O. 180 mS. from R. and 2-22 S. W. by W. from W. Ruckmanville, though called a village, is simply a post office, estab- lished in 1827, and called after the proprietor of the place, who resides here and keeps a house of entertain- ment. It is situated 27 ms. N. of the Warm Springs, on the main post road leadino- from Franklin to Ilun- tersville, and 25 ms. from the mouth of Back creek. This creek rises in Pendleton county, and after running 40 or 50 ms. along the eastern base of the Alleghany mountain empties into Jackson's river, a branch of the James. Its principal branches are the Valley branch, which intersects the same at Ruckmanville, and Little Back creek about 20 mik-s below at Gateswood. — The surrounding coun- try is mountainous. The upland is uneven, but thf^ soil is good profluc- ing in abundance, grass, corn, wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, flax, &.C. The timber, is, sugar maple, chesnut, beech, various kinds of oak, sycamore, locust, hickory and wal- nut. The neighborhood is thickly settled with industrious and wealthy farmers. WARM SPRINGS, P. V. and seat of justice. 170 ms. N. W. of R. and 212 S. W. of W. This village is situated in a narrow valley, between two high mountains, which run pa- rallel from N. E. to S. W. The view from manj^ points of these mountains is grand and picturesque in the extreme. The beauty and grandeur of the scene from the IVarrn Spri}ig Rock, has become very cele- brated ; but must be seen to be appre- ciated. This village contains besides the ordinary county buildings, about 14 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 .saddler, 2 tailors, and 3 blacksmiths. The ordinary popula- tion, consists of about 137 persons, of whom 1 is a physic iam. The ac- commodations for visiters to the wa- ters are also very extensive, consist- ing of about five and twenty cabins, most of which are of brick, besides the new Thermal Hotel, which has lately been erected, at great cost to the proprietors, and which is. a large brick building, about 135 feet long, containing a dining room for 200 persons, a drawing room, a ball room, and about five and twenty comfortable chambers. The front is adorned by a large portico, the whole length of the house, supported by fourteen Do- ric columns, which aflbrds an agree- able shade during the heat of the day, and a fine promenade, as well for the invalid, as for the beaux and belles. Any one who has ever taken the bath here will never forget its luxu- ry, and to those who have not, it is impossible to convey a just idea of the delicious sensations it causes. It is much to be regretted, that all o\ir valuable mineral waters have not 32-1 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BATH. been faithfully analysed. Thousandsl of our citizens annually resort to the watering-places west of the Blue Ridge, for the purpose of preserving or repairing health. The climate in the autumnal months cannot be sur- passed for salubrity, and very many invalids are relieved from pain and sickness by the united power of air and water. In Europe, no one thinks of using waters' whose contents are not accurately ascertainad by men oi science ; but unfortunately in our country, copious libations are made, before it is known Avhether the quali- ty of the water is adapted to the par- ticular case or not. A careful analy- sis of the water at the Warm Springs has been obligingly furnished to the proprietors by a distinguished Pro- fessor of Chemistry, (Mr, Rogers, of William and Mary,) and the resuh is as follows : "Co7itents of the Waters of the Bath, at the Warm Springs, as-ascer- tained by Chemical Analysis : " The bath is an Octagon 38 ft. in diameter, and 16 ft, 9 in, inside — its area is 1 163 77 ft. " The ordinary depth of water be- ing 5 ft. the cubic capacity is 58 IS. 86 ft. or 43533.32 gallons. " Notwith- standing the leakf, this quantity of water will flow into the Reservoir, in one hour. "' The average temper ature of the Bath is 98 deg. Fahrenheit. The Gas, which rises in the Bath, con- sists of Nttroge.%, with minute quan- ties of Sulphuretted Hydrogen and Carbonic Acid. " Besides this Gas, each gallon of vcater contains 4.5 cubic inches of Gas, consisting of Nitrogen - - 3.25 cub». in. Sulphuretted Hydrogen 0.25 do. Carbonic Acid - - 1.00 do, " The Saline contents of one gal- lon of the water, are as follows : Muriate of Lime 3.968 Sulphate of Magnesia 9.984 Carbonate of Lime 4.288 Sulphate of Lime 5.466 A trace of Soda, no doubt, in the state of Muriate, 23.706" From this account, Avhieh may be implicitly relied on, it appears that while the Warm Springs afford the most luxurious bath in the world, they contain neutral salts and various gases, which act as a gentle aperient, diuretic and sudorific, and give tone and vigor to the human system. It is well ascertained in other countries, that waters of a high temperature tend more to strengthen the digestive organs than those of a low tempera- ture ; but it is found, by actual ex- periment, that the water at the Warm Springs retains a considerable por- tion of its useful qualities when bot- tled in the Spring, and then cooled by immersing the bottles in cold water or even ice, and this plan is adopted by many of those who have a repugnance to the use of warm water. County Courts are held on the 2i Monday in every month : — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Taylor, holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 25///. of April and Septem- ber. WiLLsoNviLLE, P. O. 178 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 220 S. W. by W. of VV-^., situated in the south west- ern part of the county. Willsonville is the name of a farm at which the P. O. is located, and which contains more than 1200 acres, 400 of which are level and in good cultivation, pro- ducing well, wheat, rye, oats, corn, buckwheat, &c., and the dairy pro- duces per annum from 12 to 1500 wt. of butter. There is also a black- smith's shop, grist and saw mill in the centre of the farm ; the latter moved by water of Jackson's river. As a farm, this will bear comparison with any in the Valley of Virginia. It is 20 ms. from the Warm Springs, WESTERiN VIRGINIA— BERKLEY. 325 and 35 from Fr:uiklin, (the county j river, ;uk1 South Branch of Potomac. seat of Peiidlolon,) between whichi A weekly mail arrives here on every places the road is entirely level, and Monday. runs alono- tlie valiies of Jackson's Berkley was created in 1772, from a portion of the county of Frede- rick. It is bounded by Jellerson E. and S. E. — Frederick S. and S. W. — Morgan W. and N. W. — and by the Fotomac, separating it from Washing- ton county, Maryland, N. and N. E. Its mean length is 22^ miles, mean breadth 13: and area 308 sq. nis. It extends in lat. from 39° 14' to 39° 45' N. and long, from 1° 14' to 2° 1 1' W. of W. C. Back and Opequhan creeks run through this county in nearly parallel directions, and near the borders of the county, in a northt^asterly direction, and give the general slope of the comity their own direction. The surface of this county is much broken, and very mountainous; the arable surface of the farms has a mean elevation of from 5 to to 700 feet above tide water. Anthracite coal has lately' been discovered in the western section of this county of a very superior quality, and in great abundance. The valley in which it is found is a continuation of the valley which produces such large quantities in Pens3'lvania, and the proximity of the mine to the Chesapeake and Ohio canals will affbrd the facilities of. a ready transportation to mar- ket. This discovery if it should prove as successful as there is every rea- son to anticipate, will convert a region heretofore barren and almost without a single inhabitant, into an inexhaustible source of private and public wealth — multiplying the inhabitants, extending the comfort of individuals and adding to the permanent revenue of the State. Population in 1810, 11,479,— in 1820, 11,211— in 1830, 10,528. This county belongs to the 13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833,"$3401 46— in 1834, on lots, $238 79— land, $2194 90— 975 slaves, $242 75—4369 horse-s, $264 19—20 studs, $162 00—65 coaches, $143 65—11 carryalls, $11 60—12 gigs, $11 05. Total, $3267 48. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $854 18 — in 1833, $570 09. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Scc. Br.Ri.TXGTON Mii.i.s, P. O. recent-'' limestone formation. The scenery ly located. Darksvii.t.e, p. V. 165 ms. froni R. and 86 from W., situated on Siil around is picturesque and agreeable. It contains 32 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 liouse of public phur Spring crec]i, a branch of Ope- j worship, (Methodist,) 2 common quhan, 25 ms. N. W. of Harper's [schools, 1 fulling and dying estab- Ferry, and on the post road leading- ilishment, 1 manufacturing flour mill, trom Mariinsburff lo Winchester, 7.1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 wa- rns, from the former and 15 from the gon maker, and 2 weavers; coopers latter, near a beautiful stream called i and shoemakers are the most numer- Middle Creek. The soil in the vi-|ous class of mechanics. A Sulphur cinity is very fertile and principally 'Spring- is situated about 3 rns, E. of 3^6 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BERKLEY. this place on a little creek which falls into the Opequan, at the distance of 300 yards from the spring. Here the scenery is delightful. The beau- tiful Opequan winds and meanders along in a manner that must interest the dullest fancy. There is a large house near this spring which was occupied as a boarding house some 3 or 4 years since, when these springs were in vogue. These waters are strongly impregnated with sulphuret- ted hydrogen, and act as a gentle purgative, from which it may be in- ferred that they contain saline mat- ter. It was a place of much resort, but is now from the want of accom- modation, visited only by the passing traveller, or those who dwell in the vicinity. This is to be regretted, for with its scenery and the excellent qualities of the waters,? it could not fail to be a source of renovation to the invalid. Falling Waters, P. O. •J'9 ms. N. W. of W. and 180 from R. The Falling Waters are situated on the bank of the Potomac, about laf. 39° 29' N. and long. 0° 44' W. of W. C, 8 ms. from Martinsburg, and 5 S. W. of Williamsport, Md. at the isthmus formed by a circular bend in the river, of about 21 ms. in perime- ter, and only 4 across. It contains but 3 dwelling houses, 1 of which has been long occupied as a tavern, 1 manufacturing flour mill, a mill for grinding lime for hydraulic ce- ment, a cooper's shop and post ofiice. Population 34, 9 of whom are slaves. There are in the vicinity 1 Presby terian and 2 Methodist houses of Avorship, and 1 school, in which is| taught all the ordinary branches of an English education. The mills are situated immediately on the banks of the river, and are moved by the stream from a large spring which rises about 60 rods from them, and which is dammed at the mill to the height of twenty-four feet ; forming a beautiful pond, which is t\w favorite resort of water fowl, and abounds with fish of a superior quality to those in the river. The view from this point of the valley of the Poto- mac, and the Chesapeake and Ohio canal, for several miles up and down the river, is highly picturesque. The soil in this neighborhood is various, but generally consists of a bright yellowish clay. It produces from 15 to 20 bushels of wheat to the acre, and about the same quantity of maize, but the low grounds on the margin of the river are generally dark and loamy, and produce from 20 to 25 bushels to the acre. The principal productions are wheat, rye, maize, and potatoes. The gardens produce in abundance all the culinary veget- ables adapted to the climate, and the lands generally nearly all of the fruit trees, forest trees, shrubs, &c. that are to be found in the same latitude. Iron ore is found in many places on the. surface of the ground, but no at- tempt has ever been made to discover a mine. Limestone and a species of soft slate abound. There is an ex- cellent never failing chalybeate spring at Grigg's Tavern. \'Yhe name of Falling Waters was given to this place before the mills were erected, from the precipitous fall of the mill stream over a large alluvial rock, which is 200 feet above the surface of the river. Gkkardstoavn, P. V. IGGms. from R. and 87 from W., situated in the southern part of the county. This village contains 35 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 3 houses of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, I Methodist and 1 Lutheran,) 1 com- mon school, 1 temperance society, 1 bible society, 1 tract society, and 1 well organized Sunday school, 1 tan- yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith shops, 2 wagon makers, 4 boot and shoe factories, and 3 weavers. In the vicinity and on mill creek, are 4 manufacturing flour mills, 1 grist mill and 1 carding machine. Popu- WESTERN VIRGLNI A— BOTETOURT. 327 lation whites 150, of whom 1 is a physician ; colored 'SS-^total 172. MARTINSBURG, P. V. and scat of justice, 172 ms. from R. and 71 N. W. of W. in hit. 39° 27' N. and long. 0° 58' W. of W. C. Mar- tinsburg is a flourishing and wealthy village. It contains besides the coun- ty buildings, about 300 houses, many of them handsome and spacious brick buildings. 8 miscellaneous stores, 4 houses of public worship, (3 built of stone, and I of brick — tor Presbyterians, Eutherans, Roman Catholics, and Episcopalians,) a well built market house, 1 male and 1 fe- male academy, 3 common schools, 4 well organized Sunday schools, a temperance, missionary, bible, and colonization society, an alms house, 2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wool- en manufactory, and 1 iron and brass foundry, with a cupola furnace, and water power, and 2 druggist shops. The mechanical pursuits are — 2 printing offices, each issuing a week- ly paper, 2 lanyards, 2 saddleries, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 confectioner, 4 tailors, I chair maker, 4 wagon makers, I plough maker, 1 hatter, 2 cabinet makers, 2 tin and copper smiths, 2 white smiths, and 3 blacksmiths. Population in 1830, 1600 persons, of whom 4 are resident attorn ies and 5^ physicians. Martinsburg is distant 22 ms. N. of Winchester, 21 N. W. of Harper's Ferry, 13 S. of Wil- lianisport, on the Maryland side of the Potomcc, 10 ms. W. of Shep- perdstown, 25 S E. of Berkley Springs, 5 E. of North mountain, and 7 miles S. of the nearest pomt on the Potomac river, and Chesapeake and Ohio canal. County Courts are held on the 2d Monday in every mouth; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and .Vo- veviber. .Judge Parker holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery on the 19 /A of March and \bth of September. Mill Creek, P. O. 162 ms. from R. and 83 from W. BOTETOURT. BoTKTorRT was created by act of Assembly in 1769, and formed out of a part of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Alleghany, — N. E. by Rockbridge, — E. by Bedford, — S. by Franklin,— S. W. by Montgomery, — and W. by Giles and Monroe. Its mean length is 37 miles — breadth 28 ; and area 1057 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 08' to 37° 46' N. and in long, from 2° 28' to 3° 19' W. of W. C. This mountainous and elevated county slopes in tAvo directions, — the one eastward towards the general course of the James and Roanoke rivers, and the other northeastward to- wards the Great Valley, between the Blue Ridge and North mountains. Salem on the Roanoke, and in the southern part of the county, is 1006 feet above tide water, and Pattonsburg on James river, in the northeastern part of the county, is 806 feet. The acclivity is rapid towards the western border on Pott's mountain, and the mean elevation of the arable soil may be assumed at 1250 feet. There is a great deal of very valuable fertile land in this county. The great body of the county is drained by the James and its tributaries, but the southern angle by the Roanoke and its branches; both rivers are navigable from this county to tide water. Population in 1820, 13,590~in 1830, 16,354. This county belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833,83682 00 —in 1834 on lots, $259 64— on land. J?2127 42—2634 slaves, ^658 50— 328 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 5466 horsies, $327 96—23 studs, $245 00—36 coaches, $98 85—2 stages, $8 00—25 carryalls, $27 00—15 gigs, $9 GO. Total, $3760 37. Ex- pended in educating poor children, in 1832, $982 58— in 1833, $932 36. TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Amsterdam, P. O. 181 ms. W. of R. and 240 from W., situated in a healthy part of the county, 15 ms. { from Buchanan, 16 from Salem, andj 5 from Fincastle directly on the main! western post road. It contains 301 houses, 1 house of public worship, free for all denominations, 1 general store, 1 tanyard, 3 blacksmith shops, 1 cabinet maker, 1 wagon maker, and 2 saddlers. Population 109 persons, | of whom 1 is a physician. I Big Lick, P. O., situated in the I southeastern part of the count v, 53' ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 173 W. of' R. and 250 S. W. by W. of W. . Botetourt Springs, P. O. 189' ms. W. of R. and 246 from W., situ-l ated on the main valley post road,! leading from Winchester, Va. toj Knoxville, Ten., about 12 ms. W. of Fincastle. The houses are sufficient j for the accommodation of about 100 visiters, — are built of brick, and: handsomely arranged in the form of three sides of a square. The mine-| ral spring contains sulphur, magne- sia, and carbonic acid gas. There is on the same tract a house of public worship, free for all denominations. Buchanan, see Pattonsburg. Clover Dale, P. O. 186 ms. W. of R. and 244 from W. Craig's Creek, P. O. 243 ms. from W. and 184 from R.— 8 ms. W. of Fincastle. Dagger's Springs, situated in the northern part of the county, within two and a half miles of James river, 16 ms. above Pattonsburg and Buch- anan, on the road thence to the White Sulphur Springs, from which they are distant 42 ms., from Lexington 22, and about the same distance from the Natural Bridge. The water is similar in 'juality to that of the White Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier, and are held in the highest estimation by those who have used them. Accom- modations are provided for 70 or 80 persons. FINCASTLE, P. V. and seat of justice, 176 ms. W. of R. and 235 S. W. of W. in lat. 37° 28' and long. 2° 57' W. of W. C. A flourishing and wealthy village, situated on the right bank of Catawba creek. It contains besides the ordinary county buildings 260 dwelling houses, and mechanics shops, most of which are built with brick, a Presbyterian, Epis- copalian, and a Methodist house of worship, 1 male and 1 female acade- my, 1 well organized fire company, 1 temperance society, 3 taverns, 6 mercantile stores, 2 druggist's shops, 1 manufacturing flour mill, to which is attached a Avool-carding machine, and an oil mill. The mechanical es- tablishments are, — 1 printing office, issuing a weekly paper, 1 confection- ary, 2 clock and watch maimers, 1 gun smith, 4 blacksmiths, 4 boot and shoe factories, 2 tailors, 2 hatters, 2 tanners, 5 cabinet makers and house- joiners, 2 wheelwrights, 1 chair ma- ker, 1 copper-smith and tin-plate worker, 4 saddlers, 4 wagon maker.-s, and 1 saddle-tree maker. White population 468 persons; of whom 9 are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- cians; slaves 192, free colored 43, — total 703. The corporate powers arc vested in 7 trustees, chosen annually. Countu Courts are held on the 2r/ Mondaji ill every month; — Quarterly in March, June, Atigust and Novem- ber. Judge Taylor holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chan- cery on the \st of April and Sep- tember. WESTERN VIRGINIA— BOTETOURT. 329 Flukk's p. U. 163 ms. from R. and 241 from W. Henderson's, P. O. 185 ms. from R. and 227 S. W. of W. New Castle, P. V. 193 ms, from R. and 252 S. \V. by W. of W, situ- ated in the western part of the coun- t3^ in the fork of Craig's creek, 15 ms. S. W. of Fincastle. It contains 19 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 1 powder and 1 oil mill, 1 wool card- ing machine, 1 tavern, 1 academy and 1 house of public wor.ship, (Me- thodist,) 1 n-on foundrv, I blacksmith two places are at present of about an equal size, and contain together about 5(J dwelling houses, 8 mercantile stores, 1 house of public worship, (a handsome brick building) free for all denominations, 1 common school, 2 tobacco and 1 cordage and bagging factor J', 1 foundry and tilt hammer manufactory, 1 grist and saw mil), (and one other in the vicinity,) 1 to- bacco warehouse, at which the in- .spection has been revived, also an in- spection of flour. The mechanical establishments are — 1 tannerj'', 1 sad- dlery, 1 boot and shoe factory, 3 tai- shop, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 tanjlors," 3 smith shops, 1 thrashing ma yard, 2 cabinet makers, 1 hatter, 1 wagon maker, 1 saddler, I tailor, 1 house carpenter, and 1 boat builder. Population 105. Pattonsburg and Buchanan, P. Villages, 181 ms. from R. and 223 N. W. of W. These t.vo vil- lages were incorporated by an act of Assembly of 1832-3. They are sit- uated on James river, the first on the N. and the last on the S. side. The two are connected by a handsome, permanent toll-bridge across the river. They are 25 miles above Le.xington, 12 below Fincastle, and 40 N. W. by W. of Lynchburg. The main western valley stage road runs thro' each of them, and the stage passes daily either up or down. The ad- vantages for trade possessed by the two places above those of any other hine factory, and several wheel- wrights, carpenters and bricklayers, [n addition to which several private re.S'idences and a considerable mer- cantile establishment are erecting in the vicinity of the western end of Buchanan. Population in both vil- lages about 356 persons ; of whom 2 are attorneys and 2 regular physi- cians. Rebecca Furnace, P. O. 178 m.s. from R. and 220 N. W. of W. This furnace and another four and a half miles distant from it, are the property of Mr D. J. Wilson; they are situated on Longs Entry creek, a branch of James river, within three and a half miles of the river, Avhich is navigable thus far for boats of from four to seven tons burthen. The post office is located 18 ms. S. W. of provements on Jamfs river, and the construction of roads opening a bet- ter communication with the adjacent counties, when completed, will great- ly increase the trade, and they will no doubt become the place of deposite not only for the produce of many of the western counties of Virginia, and parts of Tennessee and Kentucky, but also of most of the goods now wagoned by land from the northern town in Western Virginia, are suchj Fincastle, 22 N. E. of Lexington, as to insure their gradual if not rapid land 15 ms. from Pattonsburg and increase. The contemplated im- Buchanan, and derives its name from the furnace. At these two es- tablishments called the Rebecca and the Jane furnaces, are employed 150 operatives, 87 of which are blacks. The former of these furnaces has been in operation 9 years, and has manufactured on an average from 800 to 850 tons of pig metal per an- num. The latter has been in opera- tion only one year, and manufactured an equal quantity. There is a White and eastern town.s to the M-e.st. The 'Sulphur Spring adjoining the fur- 330 WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. nace property, similar in quality to the well known White Sulphur in Green- brier county, and is called by the name of Dagger'' s or Wilson^ s springs. This property has lately been sold to a gentleman of Rich- mond, who has improved it in a hand- some style, so as to afford first rate accommodations. It must become a place of considerable resort, as it has for several years past been visited by from 2 to 300 persons, and has given relief where other springs have been known to fail. — There is also a forge within 7 or 8 miles of these furnaces, known by the name of James river forge, at Avhich are employed from 60 to 100 operatives, principally black; manufacturing from 2 to 300 tons of bar iron annually. Salem, P. V. 180 ms. from R. and 256 S. W. of W., situated in the southern part ot the county, 60 ms S. W. of Lynchburg, in the Great Val- ley between the Blue Ridge and INorth mountain, at an elevation of 1020 feet above the level of the At- lantic. It contains 70 houses, includ- ing mechanic shops, &c., 6 mercan- tile stores, 3 taverns, 3 houses of pub- lic worship, (I Methodist, 1 Presby- terian and 1 Baptist,) 2 female and 1 male school, 1 manuiacturing flour mill, with a saw mill and wool carding machine adjoining, (and 1 other in the vicinity, with a saw mill annexed, both running 2 pair of buhrs and 2 pair of country stones and elevators,) 1 tan yard, 1 cabinet maker, 2 saddlers, 5 blacksmith shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- lors, 1 extensive wheat fan manufac- tory, several carpenters, 1 house painter, and 1 hat manufactory. The Roanoke navigation from Weldon, N. C to this place is completed by canals, sluices, &c. — distance from Weldon to Salem 244 ms. White population 260 persons, of whom 2 are attorneys, and 3 regular physi- cians ; colored 90 — total 350. BROOKE. Brooke was established by the Legislature in 1797, and taken from a portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by the Ohio river, which sepa- rates it from Columbiana co. Ohio, — W. by the same river, separating it from Jefferson co. of the same State, — S. by Ohio co. Va., — and E. by Bea- ver and Washington counties of Pennsylvania. Its mean length is 31 ms., mean breadth 6^ ; and its area 202 square miles. The surface of this county is very hilly, but the soil is very fertile. Bujfaloe, Cross, Hamaii's, Tomlisoii' s, and a few other creeks of small- er size rise in Pennsylvania and flow through Brooke into the Ohio river. The products of the county are grain, iron, and bituminous coal. Popula- tion in 1810, 5,843—1820, 6,631 — 1830, 7,041. It belongs to the 20th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,312 37 — in 1834. on lots, $207 50— land, $721 48—110 slaves, $27 50—2896 horses, $173 76— 18 studs, $114 00—7 coaches, $15 00—26 carryalls, $26 00 — 5 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1,287 74. Expended in edticating poor children in 1832, $530 13— in 1833, $476 28. TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Beth.\ny, P. V. 375 ms. N. W. lit Avas founded in 1818, and is situ- of R. and 282 N. W. by W. of W. | ited 26 miles from the borough oC WESTERN VIRGINIA— BROOKE. 33-1 Washinfflon in Peiisylvania, on the l)t'autifnl stn'am of JiuHhloe creek, 7 miles E. of the Ohio river. It is surrounded by romantic scenery, and the creek curves around it in the exact form of a horse shoe, making a rich alluvial bottom of 120 acres. The surrounding country is hilly, variegated and very fertile, well wa- tered, and for salubrity of air it can- not be surpassed in the United States. This village is tlie residence and the property oT Alczaader Cam])l)(:ll,ihe celebrated reforming Baptist preacher. It contain.s several dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship, I mercan- tile store, I manufacturing flour mill, and saw mill, a printing office, book- bindery, smith shop, and various other mechanical establishments. Bethany is about 16 ms. from Wheel- ing, 8 from Wdlshurg, and 38 from Pittsburg, Pa. The products of the vicinity are flour, pork, beef and wool. The wool growing branch of husbandry is increasing, and the ar- ticle will soon l)ecome one of the chief staples in this part of the coun- try. Population 100. Fairview, p. O. 395 ms. from R and 30-2 N. W. by of W. Fairview or N. M'lnckcstr.r, is situated 20 ms. N. of Wellsburg, 2 from the Ohio river on the W. and 1 from the Penn- sylvania line on the E. Its situation is beautifully elevated ami healthy- It was laid out in 181 1 and now con- tains 22 dwelling houses, 2 mercan- tile stores, 2 houses of public Avor- ship, (Presbyterian,) and 1 common school, 2 lanyards, and 1 saddler. The other mechanics arc tailors, boot and shoe makers, carpenters, stone cutters, chair makers, hatters, coop- ers, blacksmiths, and cabinet makers. In the vicinity there arc 4 manuflic- turing flour mills. New .Manches- ter possesses many advantages as a place of business for the mechanic, manufacturer and merchant. Popula- tion 132 persons; of Avhom 3 are re^»'ular physicians IIoi.liday's Cove, P. O. 384 ms. from R. and 291 N. W. of W. Holliday's Cove is situated near the centre of the county. It is a small but beautiful valley, of a semicircu- lar form, both ends of which termi- nate on the Ohio river, being 5 ms. in length and one broad. It deserves to be classed among the natural cu- riosities of Virginia. It is supposed to have been once the channel of the river, or of one branch of it. Be- tween this and the present channel there is literally an island, the sum- mit of which is at least 400 feet above the level of the river, and upon which there are three or four tine plantations. It contains in all about 1000 acres of good land. The S.W. extremity of the valley opens in full view of the town of Steubenville, Ohio, and the northwestern opens on the Ohio immediately at the S. end of Brown's Island. The eastern side is washed by Harmon's creek, af- fording a very considerable amount of water power, which at present serves a Avoollcn factory, 4 or 5 manu- facturing flour mills, and several saw mills. The flour manufactured at these mills, stands high in point of quality in the southern markets. The soil is first rate. The principal sta- ple is wool, of which three or four of the farmers have raised for some years about 10,000 weight. The manufactures are woollen cloths, casi- netts, &c. and flour, — the average shipments of which from the valley is annually about 10,000 barrels, the principal part being manufactured in it. There is no village or town j'et laid out, but rapid improvements are o-oing up, on the principal road which is the great thoroughfare from Pitts- burir, Pa. to Steubenville. — There are at present about 40 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 2 taverns. The religious denomina- tions arc Presbyterians and Christian Baptists. There are a missionary, a temperance, and Sunday school socie- 332 "WESTERN VIRGINIA— CABELL. ty. The mechanics are, 3 black- smiths, 3 house carpenters, 1 stone mason, 2 boot and shoe factories, and 1 cabinet maker. This section ol country has been truly styled the yarden spot of Brooke county, and oeing so healthy bids fair to sustain a large and flourishing population, and perhaps no part of Virginia of- fers a greater opening for capitalists than this, especially for manufactu- rers. Fuel, &ic. may be had for lit- tle or no expense, as the surrounding hills abound with inexhaustible mines of stone coal and timber of every description. Population about 300. WELLSBURG, P. V. and seat of juslkc, 337 ms. from R. and 280 N. W. by W. from W., in lat. 4F 18' and 'long. 3° 36' W. of W. C. This is a healthy and wealthy vil- lage, beautifully situated on the left bank of the Ohio river, immediately above BufTaloe creek, 16 ms. above Wheeling, on a plain surrounded by a fertile, well improved and healthy country : and inexhaustible bodies of the best stojie coal abound on all sides of the place; which is furnish- ed at from 4 to 5 cts. per bushel, to the different manufactories, as fuel to the citizens, and for shipping to the southern markets. The neighbor- hood is rich and cheerful and rapidly improving; the people feeling the benefit of the home market. This flourishing village coniains, besides the ordinary county buildings, about 225 dwelling houses, 2 houses of public worship, one Methodist, the other Reformed Baptist, 5 mercantile stores, 1 grocery and confectionary, and 2 shoe stores, 1 academy, in which are taught the Greek and La- tin languages; 3 female and I male English school, 2 white flint glass- works, 1 glass-cutting establishment, (the machinery propelled by steam power,) 1 large cotton factory, with a front of 72 feet, and 4 stories high, now running 1200 spindles — employ- ing 60 operatives, 1 steam saw mill, which cuts 3000 feet of plank in 12 hours, 1 small woollen manufactory, 1 grist mill, 1 carpet factory, a card- ing machine, and salt manufactory, 1 extensive stone and red-ware pottery, 2 tan yards, 3 saddlers, 2 printing- offices, each issuing a weekly paper, and various other mechanics, 2 ex- tensive porter breweries, 3 large ware- houses, 3 extensive manufacturing mills in the vicinity, one of which manufactured 10,000" barrels of flour the past year. There are between 30 and 40,000 barrels of flour exported annually, from' this place in steam and flat boats to New Orleans. Its population is about 1400 persons, of whom 3 are resident altornej-s and 4 regular physicians. County Courts arc held on the last Mondaj/ in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, May, August and No- vember. Judge Fry hold.s his (Jlrcuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery on the -ith of May and October, Cabell was; created by the legislature^ in the year 1809, and formed from a portion of Kanawha covmty, — It is bounded N. E. by Mason, E. by Kanawha, S. E. by Logan, W. by Sandy river, Avhich sejiarafes it from Lloyd, Ijawrence and Greenwich counties, of Kentucky, and N. by Ohio river which separates it from Galia and Lawrence counties, of Ohio. Its mean length is 35 ms. ; mean breadth 29|; and area 1,033 sq, ms. It ex- tends in lat. from 37° 55' to 38° 40' N. and in loni^. from 4" 45', to 5° 34' W. of W. C. Besides the great boundary rivers of Ohio, and great Sandy, WESTERN VIRGINIA— CAliELL. 333- Cabell is watored by Guyandotte river and Twelve Pole creek, both of which rise in Logan, and flow through this county, dividing it into three nearly equal parts; of these the former is much the largest and longest, — -it flows through the county in a north eastern direction, and empties into the Ohio, a few nas. below Barboursville. The face of the country is broken and mountainous, and the soil for the most part rocky and barren. Popu- lation in 1810,2,717 — in 1820, 4,789, — during both of these periods Cabell included about one-third of the present count}' of Ijogan, in 1830 when the county was reduced to its present limits, it contained ;3,834. Tax paid in 1833,'ii^6Ga 14— in 1834 on lots, $33 51— on land, $315 30—313 slaves, $78 25—2,060 horses, $123 00—16 studs, $73 00—1 coach, $2 00—2 stages, $4 00 — 6 carryalls, $6 00. Total, $635 66. E.xpended in edu- cating poor children in 1832, $280 76— in 1833, $207 25. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Browxsvillk, (see Soutli Land-1 BARBOURSVILLE, P. V. and Scat of Justice, 344 ms. N. W. of R. and 393 S. W. by VV. of W. in lat. 38^1 24', and long. 5° 12' W. of W. C' Barboursville is a handsome little vil-^ lage, situated on the eastern bank of Guyandotte river, 7| ms. from the mouth of Mud river. The State turn-i pike which leads from the eastern /part of the state, by the great watering! / places, to the Kentucky line, passes through this village. A tri-weekly line of stages passes through the town; to Guyandotte, Avhere it meets a line! of stages from Lexington, Kentucky, and a line of steam-boals from Cincin-: nati. It contains besides the usual countv buildings, 25 dwelling houses.' 3 mercantile stores, I common school, I extensive manufacturing flour mill,; 1 tan yard, 1 hatter, 2 blacksmiths, 1 tailor and various other mechanics. | Population 150 persons: of whom 2, are attorneys, and 1 a regular physi-j cian. I Count]/ Courts are held on the itk Monday in every month. — Q^iarler- 1y in March, June, August and No- vember. I Judge Summer.s holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 26/// of April, and SrjUcm- bcK Grekxbotto:\i, P. O. 359 ms. from R. and 376 from W. GuvANDOTTE, P. V. 352 ms from R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., situ- ated immediately on the banks of the Ohio and Guyandotte rivers. It con- tains about 40 dwelling houses, 5 mer- cantile stores, 1 house of public Avor- ship, free for all denominations, 1 pri- mary sthool, a steam, grist and saw mill, and a carding machine propelled by the same power, 1 tanyard, 1 sad- dler, and 2 cabinet makers, with a number of other mechanics. This village is advantageously situated on a point of land formed by the conflu- ence of Guyandotte, with the Ohio ri- ver, it possesses commercial facili- ties of a high order, but hitherto its local advantages have from a want of foresight or enterprise in its citizens, not been duly appreciated. Guyan- dotte is the western termination of the daily line of stages from Washington City and Richmond. It is much the most important point of steam-boat embarkation, as well as debarkation in western Virginia, Avith the excep- tion of Wheeling, and there is no good reason aa'Ii)'' it should not spee- dily attain to Avhat nature designed it should be, a thriving and flourishing village. Population about 300 per- sons; of Avhom 1 is a regular physi- cian. 334 WESTERN VIRGINIA— FAYETTE South Laxdixg, or Brnu'nsviUe,^ P. V. 349 ms. from R. and 398 W. of W. South landing was incorporated by an act of the Virginia legislature, some 3 or 4 sessions since, and 2 ses- sions before last, its name was changed to that of Brownsville. It is situated immediately on the Ohio river, 3 ms. below the mouth of Guyandotte, and where the James river and Kanawha turnpike first approaches the Ohio. It is admirably adapted for a point of landing, there being a sufRoient depth of water at all seasons for steam, and other boats, to come up to the shore and ride in safety. It is already at- tracting notice in this point of view and a considerable portion of the pro- duce of the surrounding country, has found its way to the various markets on the river below, through this point : and it is more than probable from the excellenev of the landing — the beauty of the situation, the fact that it is here the great Virginia turnpike first ap- proaches the Ohio, and various other considerations, that this is the point where, before many years, the daily line of stages from Fredericksburg and other places will meet the steam- boat packets, and where the great western Virginia landing will event- ually, be permanently fixed. This town was laid off by the State Engi- giner, Mr. Crozet, three years since; but the proprietors of the land for va- rious causes, have not as yet, put the lots into market : there are, therefore, but 5 or 6 dwelling houses and 2 mer- cantile stores, yet established. But so soon as the point shall be sufficiently known, and the lots put into market, it is expected improvement will rapid- ly progress, and Brownsville, become a place of no little note in western Viririnia. FAYETTE. Fayette was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a portion of Logan, Greenbrier, Nicholas and Ivanawha counties. It is bounded by its parent counties, N. E., N. and N. VV. by Kanawha and Ni- cholas, E. by Greenbrier, S. E. by the same, S. and 8. W. by Logan, and W. by Logan and Kanawha. The limits of its latitude and longitude, or its extent in miles, we have no means of ascertaining. The mountains in this county are innumerable. The Gauly mountain has acquired the greatest notoriety on account of its having been the line dividino- the county of Kanawha from Greenbrier, — it is a continuation of the Cumberland mountain, which runs from south to north, and is cloven asunder by New river. Big and Little Sewel mountains, dividing Fayette from Greenbrier. There are many more of less note. New river runs through the whole county from E. to W. It is exceed- ingly rapid and precipitous. The junction of New river and Gauly, con- stitute the noble great Kanawha, 2 ms. above the falls, and 11 above the Kanawha county line. New river is navigable at no place between the eastern line of tlie county, and the place where it looses its name by ming- ling its water.s with those of Gauly,-— indeed there are but few places which admit of ferries. The stream is borne down whh so much force and precipitancy, as to render its crossing very hazardous, — foaming and pitching down a rough and rocky channel, with as much fury as if precipitated down a succession of precipices. The falls being so ra- pidly successive as to resemble artificial steps. Gauly river is the next in order, it is the line between the counties of Fayette and Nicholas for seve- WESTERN VIRGINIA— FAYETTE. 336 ral miles: after it comes Avithin 6 miles of New river it ceases to be the line and bends round to the S. W. and meets that noble and capacious stream. It is navigable about 8 ms. above its mouth. The Clear Fork and March Fork of Coal, also either take their rise in this county, or acquire great accession as they pass through it. Their ca- pacity is too small to admit of being much navigated. There is a great diversity of .soil in this county, it being rich, midling and sterile, and producing corn, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes of both kinds'. There are no manufactories of note. The mineral resources of the county have not been at all developed. There are strong and innumerable indica- tions of iron ore, — much surface ore is found in many places, indicating banks of ore, and chalybeate springs are interspersed all over the county^ Mounds apparently of great antiquity are found in some places; from one of which, a human skeleton and many artificial curiosities, such as were common among Indians, have been taken. "The Kanawha Turnpike passes through this whole county from E. to W. and by travelling alon"-it within 8 or 10 ms. of the junction of New river and Gauly, you°come°in sight of the former, you stand on a high cliff' of rocks called Marshal's pil- lar, or the Hawk's nest, and see the river dashing and pitching Avith m'ad- dening fury, eight hundred or a thousand feet below you, — you approach the edge of the rock to look over with great caution and timidity, and few have been so bold and daring, as to approach the edge of the precipice so near as to take a perpendicular view to the bottom, — you may stand on the top of this clifl^ and throw a stone into the river below. By drawing a Su- perficial line from the top of the precipice to the bottom of the river, thence to the opposite clifT, and thence a horizontal line to the beginning, you would have a triangle, the perpendicular of which would be about 850 ft." The falls of Kanawha constitutes a curiosity to be specially remarked. The whole stream perhaps a half a mile in width, is precipitated over a craggy rock several perpendicular feet. The rock crosses the river obliquely, and when the water is low it is divided into two prongs, one of which washes the southern, and the other the northern shore, aflxirding the finest water power to propel machinery of any perhaps in Virginia; but when the Avater is high, the rock is covered with one unbroken sheet, and presents to the beholder a sight of great sublimity. As this county has been created since the last census, there is no means of ascertaining its population, Avhich Avas then included in that of its parent counties. It belongs to the ISth judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $220 80— in 1834,— on land, $129 65—79 slaves, $19 75 —809 horses, $18 54— 3 studs, $9 00— 8 carryalls, $8 00—1 gig, fl 00. Total, $215 94. No report of school commissioners lor 1832. Expend- ed in educating poor children in 1833, $278 70. Count;/ Courts are held on the 3/yZ Motiday in e\'cry month: — Quarter' ly ill March, June, An s^ust and November. Judge Duncan holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the \st of April and Si ptember. Fayette being a new county, and the county toAvn not yet designated, aa'c therefore place the courts immediately under the head of the count}-. 336 WESTERN VIRGINIA— F^LOYD. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, dec, Coal River Marshes, P. O. 227 ms. from R. and 33G from W. Gauley's Bridge, P. O. 278 ms. N, W. of R. and 344 S. W. by W. of W., situated at the falls of the Great Kanawha river, 2 ms. below the junc- tion of Gauley and New river, and 35 above Charleston. The river is ■here 500 yds. wide and has a fall of 22 ft. over a ledge of tocks, which ex- tends entirely across the stream, and is received into a basin below, 60 ft in depth. This is the last navigable point on the Kanawha, and presents one of the best sites for machinery in. Virginia. There are here 2 saw mills, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 2 mercantile stores, and 1 hotel. A daily mail arrives. This is one of the wildest and most picturesque re- gions of the state. A very fine bridge erected at the expense of the state, at this spot, was consumed a few years since by fire, applied by an incen- diary. Mountain Cove, P. O. 273 ms. from R. and 315 from W. Sewell's, p. O. 246 ms. from R. and 288 from W. FI.OYD, Floyd w^as created by the Legislature in January 1831, and formed from a portion of Montgomery county. It is bounded N. by Montgomery, — E. by Franklin — S. by PtitrTck, — and W^. by Grayson. It is 35 miles in length from E. to W, and its mean Avidth is 15. Floyd is mountainous, but there is only one of the many knobs and spurs which cover its surface, which deserves to be noticed ; and this is but little less worthy of observation than the celebrated Peaks of Otter of Bed- ford. This is called from its resemblance to the animal, the Buffalo Knob. It is not itself so high as the Peaks of Otter, but ]ts base is more elevated than theirs, and the prospect from the top is truly sublime. On the north, east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless succession of mountains rising beyond mountains, — whilst far away to the south, the plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east the knob is accessible on horse-back, being two miles in height from the beginning of . the ascent to the highest point; on the west it breaks off precipitately, and presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears. This country is watered 'by Little river, a branch of New river. Little river is composed of three branches, called South, Middle, and West Forks, upon which are situated the most fertile and extensive meadows in the county. Laurel Fork, a branch of Big Reedy Island creek, waters the southwestern portion of the county. It washes the base of the Buffalo Knob. — This county lying upon the Alleghany, where it approaches the Blue Ridge, is not very fertile. It is mu^h better adapted to grazing, than to grain. Indian corn does not thrive well, but wheat, rye, oats, and buck- wheat, are raised in the greatest abundance. Horses, oxen, hogs and sheep are raised for market in great quantities, and are the only staples. Popu- lation between 7 and 8000, and rapidly increasing. It belongs to the 16th judicial circuit and 8th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $294 46— in 1834, on lots, $11 54— on land, $171 56—151 slaves, $37 75—1191 horses, WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 337 $71 46—6 studs, 627 00—1 coach, 82 00—5 carryalls, 85 00. Total, $316 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1332, 8105 52 — in 1333, 8544 50. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &,c. JACKSONVILLE, P. V. andison C. H., and 35 N. of Patrick C. seat of justice, 227 ms. from R. and H. Such is the healthiness, that there 305 from W. This village is located is only 1 physician in the county. in the most fertile and healthy part of County Courts are held on th« Zd thecounty. The lots were laid off some Mo7iiay in every month; — Quarter- ly months since, and a considerable L'?/ iu March, June, August and No- number of them sold. It of course | re wiier. does not contain many improvements Judge Saundeks holds his Circuit as yet. There is however a hand- Superior Court of Law and Chance- some court house erected, 5 dwelling houses, and a number of others are now building, 2 mercantile stores, 1 house of public entertainment, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 1 blacksmith shop, and post office. Jacksonville is situ- ated 100 ms, W. of Lynrhburg, its chief market or place of trade, 35 W. of Franklin C. H., 20 S. of ry on the 17 th of Afrii and Septem- ber. Simpson's P. O. situated 21 ms. N. E. of the C. H. 21 1 ms. from R. and 289 from W. Stoxey Fork, P, O. 229 ms. from R and 307 from Vv^., situated 2 ms, W. of the C. H. It contains a mer- cantile store, tavern, and blacksmith Montgomery C. H., 55 E. of Gray- 'shop FRE]DERICK. Frederick was created by act of Assembly in 173S, and formed from a portion of Orange. It is bounded N. by Morgan, Berkeley, and Jefferson, — E. by Loudoun and Fauquier, — S. by Shenandoah, — and W. by Hardy and 'Hampshire. Its me'an length is 29 miles, m.ean breadth 25f ; and its area 745 square miles. It lies between lat. 38° 50' and 39° 25' N. and long. 0^ 48' and 1° 28' W. of W. C. The surface of this county is very much diversified by hill and mountain scenery, and by di- versity of soil. It occupies S. from the Potomac part of the continuation of the great valley, in which are situated Lebanon, the lower part of Dau- phin, the greatest part of Cumberland and Franklin counties, Pennsyl- vania, and Jefferson and Berkley counties, Virginia. The Shenandoah river traverses the southeastern border meandering along the northwestern base of the Blue Ridge. Opequan, Back and Sleepy creeks, flowing N. N. E. into the Potomac, also rise in Frederick. The slope of the county is of course northeastward, in a similar direction with the streams. The ground near Harpers Ferry and along the Potomac is about 200 feet above tide water, and allowing a similar rise from the Potomac, the mean height of Frederick would be about 400 feet. The soil of this county is highly productive, though the face of the county is considerably broken by mountain ridges. It is one of the wealthiest, most hospitable, and most in- telligent counties in the State. Population in 1810, 22.574 — 1820, 24,706 — 1830, 26,046. It belongs to the thirteenth judicial circuit, and seventh 13 338 WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. district. Tax paid in 1833, $8,987 19— in 1834 on lots, $1,113 71 — land, $5,514 65—3,842 slaves, $960 50—8,506 horses, $510 36—38 studs, $453 00— 158 coaches, 8427 80—2 stages, $4 00—47 carryalls, $o3 90—31 gigs, $71 75. Total, $9,119 67. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $1186 85— in 1833, $1988 47. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. ^ACK Creek Valley, P. O. 164 jbanks, in a valley between the river ms. from R. and 85 W. of W. jand Blue Ridge, near the junction of BaTtletown, or Berryville, jthe counties of Culpeper, Fauquier, P.O. 160 ms. from R. and 59 N.W. jand Shenandoah. The situation of of W. This is a healthy and flour- this village is eligible and pleasant, ishing little village, situated on Ope- lit contains 37 dwelling houses, 2 quan creek, on the direct post roadjhouses of public worship, (1 Metho- from Winchester to Washington dist, a neat brick building, and 1 free City, 12 miles from the former. Itifor all denomination,) 2 academies, contains about 30 dwelling houses, 1 jin one of which is taught the Lan- handsome Episcopal house of public [guages, 2 houses of public entertain- worship, lately erected, 1 academy, iment, 4 mercantile stores, and 1 and 3 female schools, 2 mercantile apothecary shop. There is one ex- stores, several mechanic shops, &c. 'tensive manufacturing flour milk 3 But the business principally transact- kvagon makers, Avhich have acquired ed in this place is of a commercial jsome celebrity, 3 tan yards, 2 sad- nature. General Morgan of Re- jdlers, 3 boot and shoe factories, 3 volutionary memory, resided foi* a [smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 chair maker, considerable part of his life in the j I cabinet maker, 2 house joiners, 1 immediate vicinity of this village, jbrick maker, and i wheat Ian manu- It was the scene of many of those 'factory. Population 350 persons, of personal and party combats for which \vhom 1 is an attorney, and 3 are he was so remarkable. This cir-^ regular physicians. Thcreis a small cumstance is said to have given rise land beautiful stream passing through to the name of Battietown — by which the E. end of this village, on the it is now generally known. Its pro-|main street, called Happy creek, per name is Berryville. Population [which is visited by fish when the about 300 persons; of whom 2 are attorneys, and 5 regular physicians, Brucetown, P. O. 157 nis. from R. and 79 from W., situated 7 ms. W. of Winchester. It contains about 25 houses, 1 Methodist house of pub- lic, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 tailor, 1 wagon maker, 1 smith shop, and 1 boot and shoe factory. Population 75. Front Royal, P. V. 139 ms. from R. and 75 W. of W. It is sit- uated in the extreme southeastern angle of the county, 20 ms. S. E. of|country, viewing it from this village, Winchester, on the S. side of the lis grand and picturesque. There are Sftenandoah river, a mile from its {many handsome residences and de- Shenandoah is high: and a beauti- ful range of mountain scenery pre- sents itself in view of tlie town. In the vicinity^ are three manufacturing flour mills, turned by the noble She- nandoah river. About 3^ of a mile from the W. end of this place, but in Shenandoah county, is situated Al- lev! s Cave, said by some to surpass Weyer's cave for the extent and su- blimity of its caverns. (See Allen's cave, Shenandoah Co.) This cave is much frequented by parlies in the summer season. The surrounding WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, m lightful seats situated on eminences in the neighborliood. Among them is the agreeable mansion of the hos- pitable and venerable James Mar- shall, (a brother of the Chief Jus- tice,) whose residence is situated on Happy creek, after which it is very properly named, as those who have been its guests will be willing to tes- lify. Gaixsboro', p. O. 159 ms. from R. and 80 W. of W., situated on the road leading to Cumberland, 9 ms. N. W. of Winchester, 1 mile W. of Hog creek, and \ E. of Back creek. It contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 houses of public worship, ( 1 Metho- dist and 1 Quaker,) 1 common school, and 1 house of public entertainment. There arc 2 tan j'ards, 2 saddlers, 1 boot and shoe maker, 3 smith shops, 1 cabinet maker, I house carpenter, 1 tailor, and 1 cooper. Population 100 persons, of whom 1 is a physi- cian. In the vicinity is located a woollen manufactory, and 2 manu- facturing flour mills. HowELLsviLLE, P. V. 147 ms Manassas' Gap, P. 0. 134 ms. W. of W.C. MiDDLETowN, P. V. 158 ms. from R. and 84 N. W. of W., situated on Cedar creek, near the southwestern border of the county, 13 ms. S. W. of Winchester. It is a thriving and healthy village, containing about 55 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist and 1 Episcopalian house of worship, 4 mercantile stores, 2 common schools, I hotels, I tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 ex- tensive wheat machine manufactory, which sells annually 10 or 12 ma- chines at $400 each. The other mechanics are wagon makers, black- smiths, boot and shoe makers, 2 sil- versmiths and watch makers, 3 tai- lors, 1 cabinet maker, and 1 chair and bedstead maker. There is a flourishing academy situated two and a half miles distant from this village, which is under the superintendence of the*Jf?^'r. John Lodor. 7'here are two nianufacturing flour mills in the vicinity. Population about 300 per«r sons, 1 of whom is a physician. Millwood, P. V. 139 ms. from from R. and 94 N. W. by W. of R. and 66 N. W. by W^ of W., situ- W., situated immediately on the ated 1 1 ms. S. E. by E. of Winches banks of the Shenandoah, where Howells' run empties into that river, about 7 ms. distant both from Front Royall and Berry's Ferry. This ter. It contains 21 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 Episcopalian house of public worship, a neat build- ing lately erected, 1 extensive tan- little village is rapidly improving. Itjnery, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tai- contains 6 or 8 dwelling houses, 1 ilors, 1 wagon maker, 1 blacksmith h3usc of public worship, free for alljshop and 2 manufacturing flour mills, denominations, 1 miscellaneous store, jeach grinding from 15 to 20,000 2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wagon j bushels of wheat annually. The maker, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 i country around is rich and thickly smith shop, 1 fancy weaver, I house j settled, — the land of superior quality, carpenter, &c. The bottom lands in {producing well all the ordinary sta- this neighborhood are exceedingly ] pies. Population 112 persons; of rich, and produce in abundance In- whom 1 is a physician. dian corn, wheat, rye, oats, &c . The | Newtown or Stephensburo, P, mountain lands are productive and;V. 158 ms. from R. and 79 N. W. well timbered. The Shenandoah islby W. of W. This village is situa- navigable 150 ms. above this place, ited 8 ms. S. of Winchester. It con- and boats descend the river from thisitains 88 dwelling houses, an excellent point at all seasons with 50 barrels of j market house, and 2 houses of pub- flour, and when the waters are highjlic worship, 1 belonging the Met^ip- with 150. Population 30. idist denomination, and the other 1^14 !40 WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. jointly by the Lutherans and German i Reformed churches, 3 schools, 1 well] organized sunday school, 2 mercan-; tile stores, 3 tan yards, and 3 saddlers. The principal occupations of the vil- lage are wagon and wheat machine making. — Great numbers of wagons are made, — no less than 9 different establishments being engaged in this business, which make and send wa- gons to almost every part of the State, which for neatness, strength, and durability, are said not to be sur- passed in the United States. Popu- lation 700 persons; of whom_ 4 are regular physicians. NiNEVAH, P. O. 14,5 ms. from R. and 81 N. W. by W. of W. This place is situated in the northern part of the county, and conteins 5 dwel- ling houses, 1 wagon maker, 1 boot and shoe maker, 1 blacksmith shop, and 1 wheat machine manufactory. Population 30. This post office has recently been transferred to a country store, 2 miles distant, at which is lo- cated a tailor, boot and shoe maker, and a blacksmith shop. The country around is of limestone formation, and is very fertile and thickly settled with industrious and wealthy farmers. Pembroke Springs, P. O. 168 ms. from R. and 89 W. of W., situa- ted 18 ms. W. of Winchester. Snicker's Ferry, P. O. 156 ms. from R. and 55 from W. White Post, P. O. 144 ms. from R. and 71 N. W. of W. This is a flourishing little village, situated 12 ms. S. E. of Winchester, in a beau- tiful and highly picturesque country, remarkable for the fertility of its soil and neatness of agriculture. It con- tains 30 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship, free for all denomi- nations, and which is occupied also as an academy, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, a smith, and various other mechanics. A temperance society was organized here, about 2 years since, called the White Post, and is now in a pros-. perous condition, having about 100 members. Population 150 persons; of whom 3 are regular physicians. White Hall. P. V. 158 ms. from R. and 79 N. W. of W. This vil- lage is situated near the northern line of the county, on Apple Pie Ridge. This ridge is an elevated and exten- sive ridge of fertile land, which pass- es under different names, through the counties of Berkeley and Frede- rick, in a direction nearly north and south. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house of wor- ship, 1 school house, 1 Sunday school and tract society, 2 miscellaneous Stores, 2 wagon makers, 1 saddler, 1 tailor, 1 blacksmith, 1 cooper, and 1 boot and shoe factory. In the vici- nity, on Green Spring Run, a num- ber of excellent and extensive flour- manufacturing, grist and saw mills are located. The Run is a beautiful and never failing stream, which takes its rise wiihin 1 mile of the village, isSiiing out of the western side of Apple Pie Ridge, it runs in a north- western direction, and falls into Bath creek. The situation of this place is plecisant and healthy. The sur- rounding country is limestone land of good quality, and in a high state of cultivation. The roads Irom Win- chester to Gerardstown pass through this village, distant 8 miles S. of the former, and 6 N. of the latter. ^ The _oad from Charlestown, Jefferson, also passes through to the Bloomery gap, or Sherrard's Store, distant 15 ms. from the former. Population 70. No physician or attorney reside in this place. WI NCHESTER, P. T. and Coun- ty Seat.— 0( the large and wealthy county of Frederick, and one of the most considerable towns in Avestern Virginia, is situated in N. lat. 39° 1 1', W. long. 77° 28';* distance from * Agreeable to late observations of Capt. Grsham, U. S. Topographical Engineer, and Mr. Bruce, principal of the Winches- ter Acadcsay. WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. 341 Washington, 71 ms. ; Richmond, 150 : Harpor's Ferry, 30. This place is situated in the fertile valley of Vir- ginia, in the midst of a rich and abun- dant country, and a thriving and in- dustrious people. It is one of the oldest towns in western Virginia. Being somewhat celebrated in the his- tory of our Indian warfare and revo- lutionary struggle, a brief review of its early history will, it is believed, be interesting, as it is closely connect- ed with the early actions of that emi- nent individual, who afterwards be- came endeared to his countrymen by the glorious deeds which gained him the noble title of Father of his coun- try. Tradition informs us that the ground on the edge of the present site of Winchester was occupied by a large and powerful tribe of Indians, called the Shawnees or Shawanees, and some springs at thai point, are called the Shawnee Springs at this day. The earliest accounts of the settlement of W^inchester, state that there were 2 houses on its present location as earl)' as 1738, situated near the town run; but its establishment as a town com- menced in Feb. 1752, in the 25th year of the reign of George the II. when the General Axscinhh/ passed an "act for theeslablisihment of the town of Winchester."* In 1758 it was en- larged in consideration of an addition- al quantity of land being laid off in lots by Col. James Wood, now called ♦When the town of Winchester -w-as fir.'^t laid ofT by Lord Fairfax, he made the town lots of half an acre each, and by hi.s con- veyances annexed an out-lot of five acres adjoining the town, to each town or in.-lul; and by the condition of each grant, made the in'and the out-lots inseparable, ii being the design of this benevolent proprietor, that each house holder in town, owner of a lot, should always have appurtenant a con- venient parcel of land for small cultivation or pasturage. The intent of these grants has been, how- ever, long since evaded, by conveying one lot in fee, and the other by lease for 1000 years, renewable forever at a nominal rent. in (he plot of the towti, Wood's addi- tion. Trustees were then appointed consisting of Lord Fairfax, Col. Mar- tin and others : Vide Henning's Sta- tutes at Large: vol. 7. p. 135. Addi- tions to the town, were also made by Lord Fairfax. t Col. Wood is there- fore entitled to the honor of being the founder. Winchester is mentioned by General Washington, as being one of the points in his route, in his celebrat- ed mission, by order of Governor Dinwiddie, to the French authorities on the Ohio. He came from Alex- andria to Winchester Avhere he pro- cured baggage horses, &;c. This wa.s in November 1753.| In the French and Indian warfare that succeeded, Washington fixed his head quarters at Winchester, which was then a frontier stttlement. The North mountain a few miles west of Winchester being the boundary. — From the fear occasioned by the at- tacks of the French and Indians, this place was almost the only settlement west of the Blue Ridge, which range of mountains, was as late as 1756, the north western frontier. At that pe- riod public stores to a large amount were deposited at Winchester, for the frontier settlement. After the distin- guished action at CIreat INleadows, Ju- 1)^ 4, 1754, W^ashington returned with his regiment to Winchester to recruit, soon after which, he was joined by a {e\x companies from Maryland and North Carolina, after which rein- forcement they were ordered by the Liuetenant Governor, to march imme- diately over the Alleghany, to drive the French from Fort du Gluesne, or build one in its vicinity. After the t Lord Fairfax was the proprietor of the Northern Neck of Virginia, he lived and died at Greenway Court, about 12 ms.from Winchester, and was buried at the old Episcopal church of that place: (See ex- tent of his domain tinder Culpeper. t See his Journal of the expedition, very properly preserved in Marshall's life of Washington — new edition : vol 1 p 4Cl. 342 WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. disastrous defeat of Braddoclc, Wash- ington with the remains of the brave Virginia troops retreated to Winches- ter. Upon the invasion of the fron- tiers by the French and Indians, Washington then on his way to Wil- liamsburg, the Seat of Government, was overtaken by an express, below Fredericksburg, with the intelligence that the Frencli and Indians had bro- ken in upon the frontier settlements, and were murdering and capturing women and children, burning houses, destroying crops, &c. and that the troops, stationed among tiiem were insufficient for their protection. He immediately hastened back to Win- chester, where the utmost confusion and alarm prevailed. His attempts to raise the militia were unsuccessful. He sent urgent orders to the country Lievxtenants, east of the Blue Ridge, to hasten their militia to Winchester; but before these orders could be exe- cuted, the enemy which had done so much injury and caused so much alarm, had re-crossed the Alleghany mountain. Col. Washington after re- peated ineffectual efforts to arouse the government to act on the offensive, and adopt a more efficient system of war- fare, by sending a force sufficient to destroy Fort du Q,uesne, at length prevailed, and Gen. Forbes was or- dered to undertake the campaign for its reduction. On the 24 ih of May, 1758, orders were issued to Wash- ington's regiment to rendezvous at Winchester, and be in readiness to march in 15 days. June 24, the Vir- ginia troops in pursuance to the or- ders they had received, moved in de- tachments from Winchester to Fort Cumberland, where they assembled early in July. Upon the reduction of Fort du Qucsne, (when its name was changed to Pitt, in honor of the then British Minister,) Col. Washiiigton after furnishing 200 men from his regiment to garrison the Fort, march- ed the rest back to Winche.ster, whence take his seat in the house of Dele- gates, of which he had been elected a member by the County of Frederick, while at Fort Cumberland. During these contests a Fort was built at Win- chester, the remains of which are still visible at the north end of the princi- ple street. In Henning's Statutes, vol 7. page 33, we find the 16th clause of a law passed March, 1756, which refers to this Fort, and the ap- propriation for its erection in these words, " and whereas it is now judged necessary, that a Fort should be im- mediately erected in the town of Win- chester, county of Frederick, for the protection of the adjacent inhabitants against the barbarities daily commit- ted by the French and their Indian allies: be it therefore enacted that the Governor or Commander-in-chief of the colony for the time being, is here- by empowered and desired to order a Fort to be built with all possible de- spatch, in the aforesaid town of Win- chester; and that his honor give such orders and instructions for the imme- diate effecting, and garrisoning the same as he shall think necessary for the purpose aforesaid." The act al- so appropriates the sura of £1000 for carrying the above- provision into ef- fect.' This Fort was called Fort Loudoun, in honor of the British General, Lord Loudoun, who had been apjjointed to the command of the British troops in America. It is stat- ed in the History of the Valley upon authority, entitled to the highest re- spect, the gentleman furnishing the information referred to, having been informed by Washington's officers, that Washington marked out the site of this Fort and superintended its erection, that he bought a lot in Win- chester, had a blacksmith shop erected on it, and brought from Mount Ver- non his own blacksmith to make the necessary iron work for the Fort. The very spot is pointed out, where Washin":ton's own residence was situ- hc .soon proceeded to Williamsburg lo iriled. It is slated that his chamber WESTERN VlRCaNlA— FUEDEIilCK. 343 was above the gateway of the Fort in a situation commanding a view of the principal street of the town. This Fort covered an area of half an acre, and there is still much of its enbank-l ments and mounds remaining. There j is also a well, from which water now} rises to the surface, sunk through the| solid rock 103 ft. The labor of| throwing up this Fort, and sinking] this well, was said to have been per- formed by AVashington's regiment. The Fort contained a strong Garri- son ; and it is stated by one of the old- est inhabitants of Winchester, to have mounted si.x. 18 pounders, six 1 2 pound- ers, six G pounders, 4 swivels and 2 howittzers, and to this day grape shot and cannon balls are found there. These cannons were removed from Winchester, early in the war of the revolution. This Fort was said to have been once reconnoitered by a French officer, but never was attacked by the enemy. Winchester was used for its security as a depot for Hessian and British prisoners, taken during the revolution. The number increas- ed so much, that barracks were erect- ed 4 ms. N. of the town, for their ac- commodation: at one time in the year 1781, the number of prisoners was 1600. Having given this sketch of the early history of Winchester, which in a work like this is justiliable, as it is interesting to all Virginians, and all other citizens of the United States, to recall the associations and localities of those "times that tried men's souls," and more especially of this place from its intimate connection v>lth the first j actions and trials ot the Father of our country; we will now proceed to] give some account of the statistics of| Winchester. The principal part of the town, isj built on low ground, from which the' streets ascend. It is very compactly built, and the streets are laid out reg- ularly, crossing each other at right angles. The principal street is Avell paved, and the sidewalks in all the streets are more or less improved. The houses are generally built of brick or stone. The number of houses is about 500, and the supposed population near 4000. The census of 1830, made the population 3620 of the following description of persons: Free white males, - - - 1429 Do. females - - 1275 Slave males, - - - - - 290 Slave females, - - . - 365 Free colored males, - - - 100 Do. females, - - 161 Total, - - - 3620 The active population of Winches- ter, may be arrayed under the 3 gen- eraljjdivisions of professional, mercan- tile and mechanical classes-; — 1st. Professional. — There are 6 clergymen, 1 Methodist Episcopal. 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 Evan- gelical Lutheran, 1 Methodist Protes- tant. The legal profession is quite numerous, and the Winchester Bar has always held one of the highest stations in Virginia. It has given a presiding Judge to the Supreme Court of Appeals: and several Judges to the bench of the General Court. There has been, a flourishing Law School which only ceased with the elevation of the LecturertotheCourtof Appeals. The present number of resident law- yers of the Winchester Bar is 22: be- sides these, a number of lawyers at- tend the terms of the courts in Win- chester. Physicians. — The number of the medical profession is 7. The pro- mising Medical School established here some years since by the Medical Society of the Valley, has been discon- tinued, — two of its professors have been called to distinguished stations in other institutions, — one professor of Theory and Practice of Medicine, jin Transylvania University, Ken- [tucky, and the other, to the Chair of Medicine in the University of Va. ; The mercantile class of the coni^ dU WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK, miinity m Winchester, consists for the most part of business men, who are careful and prudent in all their deal- in s^s. Many of them have in conse- quence become wealthy. There are 41 stores in Winchester of the follow- ing description : — 32 dry goods and grocery stores, 1 apothecary and drusrsfist, 1 "auction and commission store, 3 iron stores, 2 stove and cast- ing manufactories, -I confectionary and fruit store, 1 book and stationary, and 1 lottery office. The mechanics are as follows, to wit:— 2 brewers, 4 bakers, 1 book- binder, 12 victuallers, 1 brass founder, 13 carpenters, 3 chair makers, 1 clock and mathematical instrument maker, 3 extensiv^e coach manufactories, giving employmentto a great number ofhands, 1 gunsmith, 4 house painters and gla- ziers, 6 masons and bricklayers, 1 or- namental painter, 1 pottery, 1 rope and reed maker, 9 boot and shoe fac- tories, 5 silver smiths, watch repairers and jewellers, 4 tanners and curriers, 3 barbers, 1 buhr stone maker, 17 blacksmiths, 4 brickmakers, 2 carpet weavers, 4 cabinet makers, 2 copper smiths, 2 coopers, 2 confectionaries, 1 dyer, 2 hatters, 2 lock and w^hite smith's, 8 milliners, 6 plasterers, 2 ploughmakers, 5 saddle and harness makers, 2 skindressers and glovers, 1 silver plater, I saddle tree maker, 3 tobacconists, 2 turners, 1 tallow chan- dler, 5 tinplate workers, 9 tailors, (4 merchant tailors,) 1 upholsterer, 10 waggon makers, 3 weavers, 1 wheel- wright. This list embraces 46 difier- ent trades, and upwards of 170 master workmen. It is presumed that there are several hundred journejmien and apprentices employed by these per- sons. There are 6 merchant mills in the immediate vicinity of Winchester, 1 cabinet ware factory, part of the ma- chinery turned by water, 1 carpet fac- tory which makes carpeting of a su- perior quality, much admired for the beauty of its texture, and the brillian- cy and permanency of its colors. There is 1 cotton factory, but at pre- sent its operations are suspended. The abundant water power and its admi- rable location, justifies the prediction that Winchester will one day become a great manufacturing town. There is 1 academy for youth founded by an act of the Legislature, as far back as 1788, now 46 years since. It has been in operation the greater part of that period, and has had as many as 80 pupils in one year. It is estimat- ed, that at least 1 000 young men from different and distant parts of the state, have been educated in part or entirely at this institution. This academy has maintained, perhaps as high a repu- tation as any other similar institution in the state. There are, besides the academy, an institute for young la- dies, and 1 1 other schools. There are few places in the state, which pre- sent greater inducements to parents, desiring to have their children well educated than Winchester. It is re- markable for its health, the purity of the water; and what is more impor- tant for the correct, moral and reli- gious tone of feeling, which prevails among most of its inhabitants. It is also a remarkable fact which should be stated, that although there is no night watch, a robbery is almost un- known, and a general state of good or- der prevails. The public buildings are a C. H., clerk's office, jail, mar- ket house and Common Council Hall, Masonic Hall, and Library and Ly- ceum building. There are several excellent hotels ; one of which, lately- erected, is surpassed probably by none in the state, in the accommodations for travellers. There are 9 churches in Winchester, 2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 Methodist's, ( 1 for co- lored persons,) 1 Roman Catholic, 1 Lutheran, I Baptist, 1 Friend's or (Quaker's. The Episcopal church erected m 1829, is one of the best spe- cimens of Gothic artichecture in the state. It is much admired by stran- ger? for the beauty and appropriate- WESTERN VIRGINIA— FREDERICK. Ui ness of the style of architecture. It is is no place in the Union better sup- finished with great taste in the inte- plied with water, or of better quality rior, and has a fine toned organ There is no as3rlum in Winchester, but there are a great man}'- associa- tions for benevolent, religious or lite- rary purposes; such as the Bible So- ciety, Tract Society, with a flourish- ing Depository. Sunday School Union, with a good and increasing depository, for the supply of 7 counties around Winchester; ladies' Benevolent Socie- ty, for relieving and attending to the wants of the poor and destitute sick, ladies Colonization Society, a general Temperance Society, Young Men's Temperance and Colonization Socie- ties, a Mechanic's Society, a prospe- rous Masonic Lodge and Chapter, 2 large fire companies, provided Avith engines, hose and necessary appara- tus. There is a Library and Lyceum of reading, to which is attached a good collection of minerals. The Library is yet small, which is partly to be at- tributed to the number of private Li- braries owned in the town. There are 2 printing offices in Winchester, one issues the Wi7ichester Virginian, the other, the Winchester Republican. There is also a monthly periodical published at the Republican office, for the publication of sermons, generally of living ministers of the Lutheran church, of all parts of the United Philadelphia boastsof its wa'.er works, but the water there is riv^^r water, whilst that supplied to the citizens of Winchester is spring water, cold enough to be used without ice during the summer. The water was intro- duced into the town 28 or 30 years ago by wooden pipes, through which it w'as conducted from a fine, never failing spring, about half a mile west of the town, — the right to the use of which, W'as reserved to the citizens of Winchester by Lord Fairfax, by express provision. The wooden pipes were taken up in 1828, and iron pipes put down in their places. The main pipe has a bore of about 6 inches : the lateral pipes about 3 inches. The length of the iron pipes is about 3 ms. The whole cost to the corpora- tion did not exceed $12,500. The water is now convej^ed in these pipes through all the principal streets, and by lead pipes leading from the iron, into the yards of a majority of the cititizens, without their paying any water tax for the privilege. The wa- ter is carried to the extreme parts of the town, affording a constant and abundant supply for all the purposes of domestic use, and to extinguish fire if necessary; for which purpose, fire plugs are provided at convenient dis- States. It is extensively circulated, jtanccs. and well patronized by the members i This article will now be concluded, of this church. There are 2 Banks [with a brief notice of the internal im- in Winchester, the Farmers' Branch provemenls in contemplation, and in Bank, and the Bank of the Valley, progress connected w^th Winchester. W'ith branches at Romney, Lee.sburg These are the Valley turnpike, (for and Charle^tovvn. The Winchester | which the Legislature passed an act and Frederick County Savings Insti-ithe last session) to extend from Win- tution, incoporated last session of the chester to Harrisonburg. This road Legislature, has lately gone into ope ration with encouraging prospects. Winchester possesses one great and inestimable advantage as a place of residence, which would leave this ar- ticle imperfect not to notice in detail. We mean the never failing supply of pure, wholesome spring water. There 44 has not j-et been commenced, but w'hen made will greatly increase the travelling through this Valley, which presents great inducements to travel- lers, from the beauty of its scenery, and its mineral springs. Perhaps no part of the world affords a greater variety .of mineral springs, of qualities: in- 346 WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. estimable in the restoration of heaitli, f than the Valley of Virginia. Thej state road from Winchester to Park- ersburg, on the Ohio, is novv- being] made: it will be completed, it is thought, within 2 years, — its length is 235 ms. This will be a very im-j portant road in connecting the Atlan- tic with the western states ; but the great outlet for all these roads, and for the rich Valley of Virginia, will be the Winchester and Potomac Rail Road, commenced in 1833 : this road it is thought, will be completed in 1836, — its length is about 31 ms. con- necting at Harper's Ferry, with those two grand national works, the Balti- more and Ohio Rail Road, and the! Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. The] effect of these improvements in rais- ing the value of property in Winches- ter, from bringing it in such close proximity with the eastern cities, and the natural mcrcase of business and population, must have an influence on the prosperity of this place — the ex- tent of which no one can foresee. If the same results attend these iraprove- jments which have been produced in jother places, Avhich are destitute of the s«OTC natural advantages, the pros- perity of Winchester must be increas- ed to an extent, unparalleled in all its previous history. Cmniy and Corf oration Courts are held on the Monday before the \st Tuesday in every month. Quar- terly in March, June, August and 'November. Judge Parkkr, holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the \sl of May and JSovcvi- bcr. ' Giles was created bv the Legislature in 1806, and formed from a por- tion of Tazewell and Monroe counties. It is bounded N. by Monroe, — N. E. by Botetourt,— E. and S. E. by Montgomery,— S. by Wythe,— S. W. by Tazewell, — and VV. by the great flat top mountain, which separates it from Lo- gan. The form of this county approaches to a half moon, and the length be- t\veen the points about 70 mil', s. It lies between lat. 37° 06' and 37° 43' N. and long, o^^ 15' and 4° l-j' W. of W. C. This county is very moun- tainous, the mean level of the cuhivated land being 1600 feet above the ocean. Several ridges of mountains pass through this county, the principal of which are Peier's and East River mountains. These are parts of the same ridge, which appear to have been split asunder by the waters of New river, which passes through them at the Big Fall. Near Parisburg, proudly preeminent stands The Angel's Rest, a pinnacle that overtops all the mountains of the neighborhood, and aflTords one of the most interesting prospects in the western country. The Salt Pond mountain also deserves particular notice. This mountain derives its name from the circumstance, that the old settlers of the country usually gathered their stock, that ran in the range at this place, for the purpose of givmg them salt. It is situated about 12 miles to the east of Parisburg; near the top of it, there is an im- mense lake of water of an unknown depth and 3 or 4 miles in circumfer- ence. It is said by the old settlers of the country ritlife tliat unitos the two mountains. This pond now forms a b>'autifiil expanse of water near the summit of one of the loftiest mourt- tams in Virginia, which frequently excites the curiosity of strangers, and to which the gentry of the county often resort for the object of pleasure and amusement. In the upland and mountainous parts of the county the soil is barren and roclcy, but in the valleys between the mountains and on the low grounds of the creeks and rivers, the land is very fertile and produces freely every kind of grain. Ilemp is the principal staple, a considerable quantity of which is annually wagoned to Buchanan, at the head of boat navigation on James river. In a direction from S. E. to N. W. New river runs through this county, and fertilizes a large portion of its soil. The bottoms on each side of this stream are remarkably rich and constitute the most valuable part of the county, affording many hand.some country seats, which in .some instances are improved with substantial houses. This river is also remarkable for its fine fish, particularly the mud and blue cat, which are very much celebrated among travellers for their fine flavor and astonishing size, some weighing from GO to 70 pounds.- Other streams of less note penetrate through this county, the advantages derived from which are very cvjusiderable in a country like this, where tiie most choice spots are those which lie on the margin of water courses, and have been enriched by their fertilizing influence. The White Sulphur Springs of Giles county are supposed to be inferior in quality to none in the State, while they combine withthe excellence of their waters many advantages of natural scenery, which if they were well im- proved would give them a superiority over most of the watering places in the neighbormg counties, and would be a source of increa.sing wealth to the county of Giles. These springs are situated on the banks of New river, 9 miles F^. of Parisburg, on what is supposed to be the nearest route from that place to Christiansburg" in the county of Montgomery. Here the minil at one moment may be engaged with the most pleasing emotions, derived from the river scenery, and at the next it will be struck with tlie sifjht of the most awful and majestic cliffs, which at this place overhang the bed of the river, in all the pomp of lonely grandeur. In a few years if these spring:^ should be properly managed, and sufficient accommodations provided, they will allbrd one of the most delightful summer retreats in the western part of the State, — possessing every,advantage that the invalid can reasonable hope for, and presenting many attractive inducements for the votaries of pleasure and gaity. The most numerous religious sect of the county is that of the Metho- dists ; but they have as yet erected no house of worship deserving notice. Population in 1820, 4,522 — the county then including a large tract now included in Logan county— in 1830, 5,270. This county belongs to tlie IGlh judicial circuit, and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $504 21 — in 1S34 on lots, i^^l 20— on land. ^266 15—298 slaves, ^74,50—2348 horses, 8140 88—9 studs, $47 00—3 carryalls, ^2, 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $553 23. Expended in educating poor children m 1S32, $231 66 —in 1334. $200 50. 348 WESTERN VIRGINIA— GILES. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Big Spring, P. O. 264 ms. S. W. of R. and 324 S. W. by W. of W. situated in the western part of the county, on the main post road lead- ing fiom Parisburg to Tazewell C. H. — 27 ms. from the former. It contains several dwelling houses, a grist mill, a wool carding machine, and a blacksmith shop. It is located within 100 yards of the line which divides the counties of Tazewell and Giles. Population 9 \vhites and 7 blacks. Chapman's Mills, P. 0. 255 ms. S. W of R. PARISBURG, P. V. and county seat, 297 ms. S. W. by W. of W. C. and 240 S. W. from R., lat. 37^21' long. 3° 43' W. of W. C. This village is situated on the S. W. side of New river, three-fourths of a mile from its bank, where that stream passes through Peters' mountain, im- mediately above the gap, and directly on the main post road, 18 ms. from the Red Sulphur Springs. It was established by act of Assembly, and laid ofT in June 1805; but owing to its then being in one of the extreme frontier counties, the improvements have progressed but slowly. It con- tains, besides the ordinary county buildings, (which are handsome) about 30 dwelling houses, (mostly built of stone) and a number of others in progress of erection, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 common schools, 2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 2 hatters, 2 cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and painter, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1 wheelwright, 1 tailor, and 1 brick and stone mason. Nine miles dis- tant from this village, are situated the Hygm7i Springs, a white sulphur — the water of which is supposed to contain medical properties inferior to none in Virginia. The scenery at these springs is grand ; they arc situ- ated immediately on the eastern bank of New river, and both opposite and below the springs the rocks present the most majestic appearance : there being several Natural Pillars that rise perpendicularly to the height of from 30 to 200 feet, and natural arches ; one pillar is denominated "Pompey's Pillar" — near ivhich is "Cassar's Arch :" the pillar and arch nearly join. Five miles from these springs, and 10 E. of Parisburg, is situated the Salt Pond, a natural lake. The mountain on which this lake or pond is situated, is supposed to be the highest in Virginia; being one of the spurs, or it might be called, jthe main Alleghany mountain. The '.situation of Parisburg is eligible and picturesque; being located at the ex- tremity of a mountain called "Angel's iRest," and Avhich is a continuation of what is further west called "Clinch ■mountain." From the top of Angel's jRest, is an extensive view of New I river and the surrounding country. iNewbern, in Montgomery, can be seen at 22 miles distant — and various other places. There is a line of {stages running daily through this vil- 'lage from Wythe C H. to Lewisburg, JGreenbrier county. — This line leaves 'the main western route at Newbern, running from Washington City, to Knoxville, Tenn. There is also a mail from Franklin, and another from Tazewell C. H., running mto this place once a week. White popula- tion 170 persons; of whom 2 are resident attorneys, and 1 a regular physician — colored 34 — total 204. Coioity Courts are held on the last Monday in every month. Quarterly in March, Jjine August, and Oc- tober. Judge Brown holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chance- ry on the 9th of May and October. WESTERN VIRaiNIA-^GRAYSON. GRAYSOX. 34i Graysox was established by the Legislature in the year 1793, from a portion of the county of Wythe. It is bounded N. by Wythe, — N. E. by MontiTomery,— E. by Patrick,— S. by Surry and Ashe counties of N. C— and W. by Washington. Its mean length" is 6GJ miles, mean breadth 14; and its area 927 square miles. It extends in lat. from 36" 33' to 36*^ 53\ and in long, from 3^ 28' to 4° 40' W. of W. C. Grayson is the most ea.stern of the southern counties of Virginia, which are comprised in the valley of the Ohio river. Great Kanawha rises in Ashe county of N. C. and flows northeastwardly into Grayson, and thence turning eastward about 20 miles along the line of Va. and N. C; and turning N. N. E. it tra- verses ,Grayson, which it leaves by piercing the iron mountain. This county slopes northward, and is drained by innumerable creeks, which flow into the Great Kanawha, which is here called New river. The ele- vation of Grayson is about 1600 feet above the level of the ocean. Population "in 1810, 4,941— in 1820, 5,598— in 1830, 7,675. This coun- ty belongs to the 10th judicial circuit and 5th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1GS 45— in 1834 on lots, 810 54— on land, S232 90— 215 slaves. 853 75 -—2238 horses, 8134 28—8 studs, 831 00—1 coach, $2 00—4 carryalls, 84 50. Total, 8168 97. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, 8544 1.5— in 1833, 8495 23. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Cr.wberry Plain, P. O. 277 ms. S. W. by VV. of R. and 353 from W., situated on Cranberry creek, a small branch of the Great "Kanawha, which rises in the Iron mountains, and flows S. over the west angle o! Gi'aysen, into Ashe Co. N. C. GREENSVILLE, or GRAYSON C. H. P. V. and Seat of Justice, 276 ms. from R. and 354 S! W. by \V. of W., situated on the right bank of New river, 25 ms. S. S. E. of Ever- sham, the county seat of Wythe. It contains besides the usual county buildings, 9 dwelling houses, 3 miscel- laneous stores, 1 tavern, and several mechanics. White population 49 persons: of whom 1 is an attorney — ■ blacks 19 — total 68. Coii.nty Co7irts are held on tlie 4tk Monday in every month. Quarterly in March, June, August and Novem- ber. Judge Brown holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chance- ry on the lOth of April and Sep- tember. GRFIENBRIKR. Greenbrier was formed by the Legislature in 1777, and created from portions of Botetourt and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Nicholas, and Pocahontas, — E. by Bath, and A'lleghany, — S. by Monroe,— and VV. by Great Kanawha, which separates it from Logan. Its mean length is 46 miles, mean breadth 32A ; and area 1,409 square miles. It extends in lat. from 37° 40' to 38° 18' N. and in long. 3° to 4° 3' W. of W. C. It is prin- cipally drained by Greenbrier river, and its tributaries: but from its west- 3jO western VIRGINIA— GREENBRIER. era border numerous creeks flow northwestwardly into Gauly river, the principal of which is ScwclTs creek.* It rises in Sewell's mouutain (the ♦ The following is an extract IVom memoirs of Indian wars on the western fron- tier of Virginia, conmiunicated to the Philosophical Society of Virginia, by Charles A. Stuart, Esq. of Augusta Co. About the year ITiD, a person who was a citizen of the county of Frederick, and subject to paroxysms of lunacy, when influenced l)y such fits, usually made excur- sions into the wilderness, and "in his rambles we.stwardly, fell in on the waters of Greenbrier river. At that time, the covmtry on the western waters were but little known to the English inhabitants of the then colonies of America, being claimed by the French, who had co;nmenced settlements on the Ohio and its waters, west of the Alleghany mountains. The lunatic being surprised to fmd v.-aters running a differ- ent course from any he had before known, returned with the intelligence of his dis- covery, which did abound with game. This so;)n excited the enterprize of others. Two men from New England, of the name of Jacob Marlin and Stephen Sewell, took up a residence upon Greenbiier river ; but soon disagreeing in sentiment a quar- rel occasioned their separation, and Sewell, for the sake of peace, quit their cabin and made his abode in a large hollow tree. In this situation they were found by the late General Andrew Lewis,"in the year 17Jl. Mr. Lewis was appointed agent for a company of grantees, who obtained from the Governor and Council of Virginia, an order for one" hundred thousand acres of land lying on the waters of Greenbrier river, — and did, this year, proceed to make surveys to complete the quantity of said grant- ed lands ; and finding Marlin and Sev.'ell living in the neighborhood of each other, inquired what could induce them to live separate in a wilderness so distant from the habitations of any other human beings. Tiiey informed him that diiference of opin- ion had occasioned their separation, and that they had since enjoyed more tranquility and abetter understanding; for Sewell said, that each morning when they arose ami Marlin came out of the great house and he from his hollow tree, they saluted each other saying— good morning Mr. Marlin, and good morning Mr. Sewell, so that a good understanding then existed between them; but it did not last long, for Sewell removed about forty miles farther v.-est, to a creek that still bears his name. There the Indians found him and killed him. Previous to the year 177-3, Mr. Lewis had completed for the grantees, under the order of council, upwards of iifiy thousand acres ; — and the war then commencing between England and France, nothing further was done in the business until the year 17(J1, when his majesty issued his proclamation commanding all his subjects within the bounds ot the colony of Virginia, who were living, or who had made se!llenient.s on the western waters, to remove from (hem, as the lands were claimed by the In- dians, and good policy required that a peaceable understanding should be preserved with them, to prevent hostilities on their part. The order of council was never after- wards carried into etfect, or his majesty's consent oV of worship. Population 16 whites The western branch of the Court and 8 blacks. of Appeals sets here, and commences Frankfort, P. V. 231 ms. from its session the ]st Monday \x\ July, R and 273 S. W. of W., situated 10;and if business requires may set 90 ms. N. E. of Lewisburg, and 3 W. ofidays. The U. S. District Court sets Greenbrier river, in a "beautiful and on the Friday ^uccee Am g the \st wealthy part of the countv! It con-\ M-onday of April and September. tains about 50 dwelling" houses, ll County Courts axe heU on ihe ith Methodist house of worship, 2 covaAMonday in every month; — Quarter- mon schools, 1 for males and 1 for,/?/ in March, June, August and JVo- females, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, I vewjiifvr. 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, and various oth-! Circuit Superior Courts of Law er mechanics. Population 230 per-land Chancery are held on the lOthof sons; of Avhom 1 is an attorney, and^May and Octoher, by Judge Tay- 2 are regular physicians. There are | lor. very extensive sales of stock annuallyj Lick Creek, P. O. 236 ms. from effected in the neighborhood of thislR. and 293 N. W. by W. of W., situ- viUage. ated near the county line of Fayette. HocKMAX, P. O. 233 ms. from R.! It contains numerous dwelling houses, and 275 S. VV. by W of W. land several mechanics. Its popula- LEWISBURG, P. V. and Seat of iion is 280. The land on the creek Justice, 221 ms. VV. of R. and 263 S is of good quality, producing well, In- W. by W. of W.; in lat. 37° . 48' N. dian corn, wheat, rye, oats and pota- &nd long. 3° 26' W. of W. C. This toes, and table vegetables in abun- village fs situated near the southern dance. There are 3 grist mills in border of the county, immediately onjthe vicinity. A large stream of sul- the James river and Kanawha turn-jphur water is found 5 ms. distant from pike, equi-distant 100 ms. from|this P. O. near the mouth of the Charleston, Kanawha, and Staunton, jcreek. Augusta, 9 ms. west of the White! Maysville, P. O. 224 ms. from Sulphur, and 12 east of the Blue Sul- R. and 266 s. W- by W- of W- Meadow Dale, P. O. 246 ms. from R. and 288 from W. Sewell Mountain, P. O. 252 ms. from R. and 294 S. W. by W. of W-, situated in the western part of the county. Spring Creek, P. O. 212 ms. from R. and 254 S. W. by W. of W- White Sulphur Springs, P. O. 212 ms. W- of R. and 254 S. W- of W., situated in the eastern part of the phur Springs. Besides the ordinary county buildings, it contains 101 dwelling houses, 3 houses of public worship, (1 Baptist, 1 Presbyterian, and 1 Methodist) 1 academy, 1 com- mon school, and 3 Sunday schools, 6 mercantile stores, 1 printing ofiice, is- suing a weekly paper, 2 tanyards, 3 saddlers, 4 blacksmith shops, 2 cop- per smiths and tin plate Avorkers, 3 brick layers, 4 house carpenters, 4 tailor shops, 2 cabinet makers, 2jcounty, 9 ms. S. E. by E. of Lewis- watch and clock makers, 2 wagon ma-|burg. We regret that the proprietors kers, and 3 liotels. The situation ofjhave not thought proper, to reply to this village, is in a healthy, moun- tainous region. It has been rapidly improving for the last 3 or 4 years the repeated applications, made to them for a description of this cele- ^ brated, and delightful Avatering place. Population about 750 persons; oif The great beauty of the place, the ex- WESTERN VIROINIA— MAMPSITIRE. 385 tensive building's erected and yet erect- ing, and always insulTicient, — the vast concourse of visiters, the medicinal powers of the waters, &.c. are subjects of which a detailed account mi!,''ht have been written, which would have been interesting not only to this state, but to the whole country, which is beginning to appreciate die excellence believe the stoclf has never been taken. The property is now chiefly owned by Mr. Caldwell. The capital au- thorized by the charter is §.500,000, (of which not loss than three-fifths arc to be held by other than the present proprietors) or 5U00 lihares at $100 each. "We knew the White Sulpliur, of these waters. Already there is a when the accommodations were con- vast concourse of strangers, from thelfined, and much unequal to the de- north and the south, the east and thejmand. Those accommodations have west, coming from the din and bustle of rapidly expanded, year after year, but the city, or the baneful miasmata of they are still as inadequate as 1'2 years the marshes, to find health and plea- ago. The multitudes who flock thith- sure at the Virginia Springs, amongjer for recreation or health, increase which this shines forth : [with the resources of the country and "Ut limd inter minores .sideres." its population, and wall continue to in- It has never been our misfortunekrease beyond what would now ap- to be compelled to seek it for health,, P<-'ar a rational calculation. As a but as an agrrcablc summer retreat, Property it is impossible to estimate no place can surpass it. We pre- its worth. Some 10 years ago it was sume the buildings in theapproaching^stimatcd at from 75 to $1.50,000. It summer of 1835, Avill be sufficient to accommodate 400 persons. Several large and handsome hotels have has ascended in speculation to 500.- 000^Z50,000, and 81,000,000. A few yeais hence, when further improved, .sprung up in the neighborhood, for this will unquestionably be thought the distance of 6 or 7 nis. with the far below the irue value; for although view of merely accomodating the it is possible that as good^sulphur wa- eompany, over-flowing from the lim-ter may be found, better can never be, ited accommodation at the Springs, and the established fame of the White The General Assembly in the session Sulphur must at all times, keep doAVU of 1833-4, granted a charter of in- destructive competuion." corporation to the proprietors, but we; IIAMPSIIIIIT]* Hampshire was established by the Legislature in 1754, from a portion of Augusta and Frederick. It is bounded by Morgan N. E , Frederick E , Hardy 3. and Potomac and Alleghany county of Maryland, N. E and N. Its mean length is about 33 ms. ; mean breadth 30: and area 989 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 1^ 28', to 2^ 12' W. of W- C. A large proportion of the soil is poor, and much that is cultivated, is on steep acclivities. It never- theless produces an abundance of wheat of the first quality, for a few crops after it is first cleared, and would continue to produce well, were it judi- ciously cultivated, as gypsum acts powerfully upon it. The high moun- tains are untillable, but would afford an excellent range for sheep, both as to the quality of mutton and avooI which would be produced, could the at- tention of the inhabitants be turned th.Tt way The people inbribiting the S5G WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. liiUs and mountains, though poor, are honest and Jiardy, and independent, living comfortably upon the produce of their own lands. The principal streams are South branch of Potomac, the North branch of Potomac, the main river Potomac, and the great Cacapon. On all of these there are extensive and fertile low grounds. The South branch has long been celebrated for its rich, and inexhaustible bottom lands. In the county of Hardy, through which the South branch flows, before it enters Hampshire, the iowgrounds on this river as regards the fertility, may be styled the garden spot of Virginia, and are not surpassed in natural productiveness by any perhaps in the world. They have been known to be cultivated in In/ dian corn, in some instances, for 20, 30 or 40 years in succession, with very- little dimunition of their product. In Hampshire the low grounds become narrow, Avith some small change in the quality of the soil, but are estimated at very high prices by the owners. They have sold at the extravagant price of 100 and $150 per acre, and in Plardy, as high as $300, but those days have past. The bottoms on the North branch are also rich, but infc- lior to those on the South. On the great Cacapon which flows in a course of 40 ms. and upwards through the county, the low grounds are inferior to those on the North branch. Patterson's creek also flows through the whole breadth of the county, having fine bottom lands on its margin throughout its course. The face of the country here, and in the county of Hardy, give evidence of convulsions and disruptions, which we might suppose took place in a war between rivers and mountains at some remote period, from which it might be infered, that the rich valley on the South branch, had at one time been a lake ; that the waters had risen until they had broken over the mountains in ditferent places, and torn for themselves a passage through, quite down to their bases; leaving tremendous precipices of recks of astonishing height, which overhang the traveller on the road, passing through those breaches on the narrow margin, now formed between the river and the rocks. One of these is to be seen about 4 ms. below the town of Romney, constituting an object of great grandeur and sublimity to the beholder ; and what height* ens his wonder and curiosity, still more, it appears as if the capricious river not content with the victory it had gained, or the course it had taken: about 3 or 4 ms. below, it breaks through the same mountain again, to the same side on which it had previously flowed, leaving a similar precipice op its opposite side. But one of the most puzzelling curiosities in this county, is what is called the Ice mountain. Jt appears to be an entire pile of stone from its base to its summit, about the size of building stone, destitute of soil or clay, trees or shrubs, Avith few exceptions. It is fully exposed to the whole power of the sun's rays for the greatest part of the day, yet throughout the whole o{ the hottest summer, on any part of this mountain thus exposed to the sun, lumps of ice may be found on turning up the stones to the depth of about a foot, which shews that the mineralogical or chemical composition of the mountain, is such as to preserve ice in hot weather, if not to produce it: but what that composition is, has not yet been ascertained, though it is notorious that the ice may be found as stated. This natural ice house is situated near the North River Mills, and near the old road leading from Romney to Winchester, about 17 ms. from the former, — in the north western sectioi-). of the corinty, on the margin of the North branch of the Potomac. The boundary at that place between Virginia and Maryland, are immense fields WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 3r>7 of biUiniinous coal, which have lately attracted tlie attonlion of capitalists from the cities, who are at this time rapid!}' purchasing- them up, with a •view to the great profits wliich it is contemplated they will yieU, wjien the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal shall reach them. The calculation is no doubt a rational one, when the small expense which it will require to place tliis coal in the boat, and the facility of carrying it to market on the canal (if ii should be made) is considered. Near to these coal fields there are iudica- .cations of iron ore in large quantities, affording the most ample ineans oi competing with England in the cheapness of bar iron for Rail Roads, &,c.: for it is well known that where iron is made by stone coal instead of wood coal, and by rolling it out in mills instead of hammering, it can be sold for one half the price which it must cost to make it by charcoal and forge ham- mers, as is practisexl now in the United Sates with few exceptions. There are large deposits of iron ore over the wliole country. It is thought to be more abundant in this, than in any other county in the state. Along the great Cacapon, from its source to its rnoLith, the appearance of large mines of it, is to be seen in almost every ridge. Very little of it has yet been worked, but the greatest part of what has been tried, is found to be of the best quality. -In fact for the manufacture of iron, the great Cacapon may become to Virginia, what Juniata has to Pennsylvania, a great source of wealth. The men of wealth on the South branch, and in other parts of the county, have hitherto been so entirely engrossed in fattening beef for mar- ket, that they have thought very little of improving any other resource of the country, not even in erecting miills, for manufacturing flour; but it is to be hoped, that the north western turnpike, now making, which passes {:hrough the whole length of the country from east to west, will bring its other resources into- action which were locked up before by the mountains. The lowest elevation of this county is along the branches of the Potomac, and this exceeds oOO ft. Population in 1820, 10,880—1830, 11,279. It belongs to the 13th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $2,399 27— in 1834, on lots, $19 01— on land, $1,G31 86—703 slaves, B175 75— 4,92') horses, $29.5 50— 22 studs, $169 00—6 coaches, $13 00 22 carrvalls, $22 00—7 gigs, $5 80. Total, $2,411 92. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $912 14— in 1834, $949 00. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Burlington, P. O. 205 ms. from R. and 126 N. N. W. of W^ashing- ton City, situated on a small water course, called Patterson's creek. It contains a mercantile store, a house of entertainment, several houses oc- jcupied by mechanics, and a house of public worship, free for all denomina- tions. The mail passes and repasses this post office once a week. A new route has been lately established from this place, to Smith's Farm in Alle- ghany county, Maryland; on which ihe mail passes to and fro once a >yeek. The north western turnpike from Winchester to the Ohio, passes inunediately through this place, hav- ing passed through Romney, the :ounty seat, 1 1 ms. E. Cold Strkam Mill and P. O. 172 ms. from R. and 93 N. W. by \V. of W. This village is situated 20 ms. N. W. of Winchester, 21 S. E. of Romney, and 2 N. of the Par- kersburg and Winchester road. It contains, 12 dwelling houses, 1 Epis- :opalian, and 1 Presbyterian house of worship, 1 classical school, 1 mer- cantile store, 1 woollen manufactory, 1 extensive manufacturing Hour mill, 358 WESTERN VIRGINIA— HAMPSHIRE. 2 saw mills, 2 gunsmiths, doing a considei"able business annually, 1 cabinet maker, and various other me- chanics. Population G8 whites, 2 of whom are physicians, and 12 color- ed, — total 80. Much timber is car- ried in boats and rafts from this place, down the Big Cacapon to the Poto- mac, and thence to various markets. The Cold Stream is one of the best water courses in the state; on it are several mill seats and manufactories; it flows abundantly in the dryest sea- son, and never freezes in winter. It empties into the Cacapon river, about 50 yards above the woollen factory before mentioned. The bottom and level lands in this neighborhood are fertile, producing corn, wheat oats, rye, &c., and are improved by clover and plaster. The country around is somewhat mountainous, generally high and rocky. Six miles N. of this place is the famous Ice mountain spoken of in the general description of Virginia in the first part of the work. The mountain is situated near North river, and on the north west side of the mountain. By re- moving the stones for a about a foot below the surface, ice may be had in any quantity in the dryest and liot- test season of the year. Dillon's Run,' P. O. 179 ms. N. W. of R. and 100 N. W. of W., sit- uated 16 miles E. of Romney, the county seat Frankfort, P. O. 203 ms. from R. and 124 ms. N. W. by W. of W., situated near the right bank of Pat- terson's creek, in the northern part of the county. It contains 2.'> dwel- ling houses, 1 Episcopalian house of worship, 3 miscellaneous stores, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing (lour mill, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith shops, 1 cooper, 1 wagon maker, 1 hatter, 1 chair maker, and 3 boot and shoe factories. Population 1 4G whites, including 1 physician, and 13 colored, — total 159. Glencoe, P. O. 170 m.?, from R and 91 N. of W. Glencoe though called a village, is simply a po.st office, at which is kept a mercantile store of considerable notoriety. It is situ- ated on the road leading from Win- chester to Romney, 19 ins. from the former, and 25 from the latter. In the vicinity on the great Cacapon are situated 2 extensive manufacturing flour mills, an iion forge, in great repute, 2 tan yards, several wagon makers, and blacksmith shops; and various other mechanics in the neigh- borhood. Within 10 ms. of this place are situated the celebrated Ca- pon Springs, which are famed for the medical qualities of their waters. The accommodations are comfortable and convenient, and there are gener- ally in the summer months from 50 to 70 boarders, who resort to these springs for health and pleasure. The country around is extremely rough and mountainous. The great Caca- pon at its head, takes the name of Lost river, from the fact that it dis- appears, and after taking a sul)terra- neous passage for some considerable distance, is seen again. When this stream is high great quantities of lumber are conveyed to Harper's Ferry, Georgetown, Washington Citj'^, and Alexandria. Some years since the Cacapon and North river company was created with a view of making these streams navigable. Five miles distant from this place, there is an extensive vineyard, be- longing to Gen'l Lockhart, in a flou- rishing condition, the wine of which is said for flavor and richnes.s, nearly to equal any imported. He manu- factured in each of the successive years of 1832-3, from 5 acres, 30 barrels. The diflerent religious de- nominations in this section are Pres- byterians, Baptists and Methodists. Hanging Rock, P. O. 182 ms. from R. and 103 S. W. by W. of W., situated 28 ms. W. of Winchester, and 15 E. of Romney, the county seat. Hanging Rock post office de- WESTEItN VIRtUNlA— HAMPSHIRE. 359 tives its name from a large rock that projects or hangs over the road, pass- ing through a gap of the North river mountain, where the northwestern turnpike road, lately located from Winchester to the Ohio river, now passes. This Rock is situated about a fourth ol a mile on the E. side of the North river, a stream navigable for rafts, boats, &c. It empties into great Cacapon, 11 ms. N. E. of this place. The post oflice was first es- tablished near the rock, but has been twice moved, — its present location is 25 miles west of the rock. Ill the vicinity there are 2 houses of public worship, (1 Methodist called Hang- ing Rock Meeting House, the other free for all denominations, called Zioii's Church,) 1 manufacturing flour mill, and 1 grist mill. Two miles below the rock, on a small stream emptying into North river, 4 miles above this place, are 2 grist and 1 oil mill, and carding machine. The lands on North river are generally fertile and productive, and those lying between North river and South Branch of Potomac, are mostly brok travcller,being unconnected with any other high ground, and loaded with a growth of large timber. There has been lately erected here a house of entertainment. Little Cacapon has its source in the Grassy Lick, oa Stoney mountains, in the southwest part of the county, runs northeast 50 miles, and after receiving numerous tributaries, empties into the Potomac river. — This stream was declared a public highway by an act of the Vir- ginia Legislature in 1832, and is navigable for boats, rafts, &c. 20 ms. from its mouth. The soil on this creek is of good quality, producing well wheat, corn, rye, oats, &c. There are 1 manufacturing flour mill, 7 saw and 5 grist mills, located on this stream ; and in its vicinity are 3 houses of public Avorship, (2 Baptist and 1 Presbyterian.) The uplands in the neighborhood are slate soil, and when first cleared produce good wheat,_ corn, Ace. The mountains and hills abound in pine of the best quality. The principal mountains are Spring Gap and Little Capon \mountalns on the east, — and Toicn en and hilly, but where well cultiva- [///// mountain on the Avest, running ted are tolerably productive. The parallel with the stream. turnpike crosses 3 considerable moun- tains, viz. North rii:cr, Sandi/ ridge, and Dillo?i's mountains. North River Mills, P. O. 178 ms. from R. and 99 from W. North River Meeting House, Little Cacapon, river and P. O. jP. O 194 ms. from R. and 115 N. 188 ms. from R. and 109 from W. |w. by W. of W. The P. O. is situated 1 mile W. ofj Paddytown, P. V. 214 ms. from Little Cacapon river, 14 N. E. of R. and 135 N. W. by W. of W. Romney, and 7 E. of Springfield, atjThis small but romantic village con- ihe Sulphur Springs, on the Spring- jtains G dwelling houses, 1 mercantile field road. The Avater of this spring istore, 1 manufacturing flour mill ; and is strongly impregnated Avith mine- there are in the immediate vicinity, 1 rals, is pleasant to the taste, and is somcAvhat noted for its salubrious efficacy. At this spring there is a natural mound, composed of rock and earth, about 20 feet in height and forge and furnace. It is situated up- on the banks of the North Branch of Potomac river, betAVcen Knobleij, New Creek and Alleghany moun- tains, commanding a beautiful pros- 60 in circumference at its base; Avithjpect of the latter, Avhich lies Avithin the main post road passing on one 'one and a half mile distant : — Queen's side, and a small stream of Avater on \Poinl-AnA Slim Bottom Hill. Q.ueen's the other. This m-ound invariably i Point is remarkable for the magnifi- attracts the attention of the passing Icent aspect, Avhich is here presented 360 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MAMPSMIRfi. ta the s^pecfator. This Point over- looks the river, and is upwards of 600 feet high, the extremity or top of \vhich is decorated with a large pro- jecting rock itpwards of 100 feet in height. Through this rock Avhich is about 200 feet in width there is a kind of avenue or alley, thro' which visitors generally pass. This point is a place of considerable resort, dur- ing the summer season, and derives its name from the circumstance of a traveller by the name of Glueen, hav- ing attempted to pass by the foot path, which leads around the base of the rock, upon horseback, but the feet of the animal slipping he was precipi- tated with his rider over the preci pice, and both were killed. Slim Bottom Hill is also a place of some resort, and from its novelty deserves to be partially noticed. The most conspicuous part of this place is a large prominent projecting rock which overhangs the river, the height of Avhich is about 90 feet. This rock appears to have been at one time connected with the opposite rock on the Maryland side. Thi.? general opinion is derived from their similar- ity, and the fact of their being so near in contact, the river only separating them. There are several other natu- ral curiosities immediately in the vi- cinity of this village Avorthy of no- tice ; amongst others is a cavern or cave, upon the side of Martin^ s Hill, (another noted point not much short of one thousand feet high,) from whence there flows a very small stream. This stream in this cave during the .summer season produces considerable quantities of excellent ice. This re- markable phenomenon can only be solved in the following manner. Its local situation being due north, and the lower mouth being at the base of the hill, and ascending gradually a distance of perhaps 30 or 40 feet be- low the surface of the earth, nearly to the top of the. hill, Avherc it again makes its appearance (though the cavity is rather small to make it prac- ticable for persons to pass through.) It thereby gives the cold northern winds free access, which naturally freezes the water in winter, and the cavity serves as an icehouse, during the summer. There is also a similar cave on the land of Janney's heirs, whence their issues a perpetual breeze which is extremely cold. This spot has a small house built over it and is occupied as a milk house. There is in this vicinity on the Ignds of J. Singleton, a Salt spring, from which there has been several barrels of good salt manufac- tured. ROMNEY, P. V. and seat of jus- tice, on the right bank of the South Branch of Potomac, 195 ms. from R. 116 N.N. W. of W., 39 ms./ina similar direction from Winchester, and 28 S. of Cumberland in Mary- land, situated in lat. 49° 20' N. and long. !° 42' W. of W. C. Popu- lation in 1830, 346, of whom 100 were colored persons. County Courts axe held on the iih Monday in every month : — Quarter' ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Parker holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 2Qth of April and I2ik September. Shkrrard's Store, P. O. 174 ms. from R. and 95 from W. Sheetz's Mill, P.O. 205 ms. from R. and 1 26 N. W. by W. of W. Springiield, p. V. 197 ms. from R. and 118 N. W by W. of #. This village is sitiiated at the ihler- seclioii of the post roads, leading from Winchester to the national turn- pike, (42 ms. from the former and 1 7 from the latter) and the road leading from Romney, to Old Town, Md., be- tween the South and North Branches of the Potomac river, 1 mile from the former and 7 from the latter. It contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 houses o^ public wor.ship, (1 Presbyterian WESTERN VIRGINIA—HARDY. 361 atid 1 Methodist,) 1 seminary in,bly one of the healthiest villages m \Vhich are taught all the necessary | the Union, surrounded by beautiful branches of an English education, 2j mountain scenery, and in the neigh- mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 tan I borhood of forests, well stocked with yard, 1 saddler, 3 boot and shoe fac- wild game, such as deer, turkeys, tories, 2 smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 pheasants, squirrels, &c. Papulation chair maker, 1 house joiner, and 1 1 162 persons^ of whom 1 is a physi- wagon maker. Springfield is proba cian. HARDY, FIardy was cvoated by the Legislature in 1786, and formed from a por- tion of Hampshire county. It is bounded by Hampshire N. and N. E., She- nandoah E., Rockingham S. E., Pendleton S., Randolph S. W. and W. and Alleghany county, of Maryland, N. W. ; its mean length is 42 ms; breadth 1/- and area 714 "sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 43', to 39° 18' N. and in long, from 1° 43', to 2° 30' W. of W. C. The surface of Hardy inclines to the N. E. and is traversed in that direction by the South branch, and sev- ral other tributaries of the Potomac ; with lateral chains of mountains in- tervening, which also extend in a similar direction with the rivers. The surface is much broken, and for the most part very rocky and sterile; but tracts of excellent land, lie on the streams, and in the mountain vallies. The mean elevation of the arable land, is perhaps 1000 ft. above the ocean. There are some valuable banks of iron ore in this county, among these the one near the Cacapon furnace, about 30 ms. from Winchester, deserves to be mentioned. Population in 1820, 5,700— in 1830, 6,778. This county belongs to the 14th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 82,549 64— in 1834, on lots, $34 21— on land. $1,999 81— 607 slaves. ^151 75— 3,837 horses, $230 22— 20 studs, $173 00 — 8 coaches, 817 50 3 carryalls, $3 00. Total, $2,603 49. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $332 23— in 1.833, $665 87. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &^: Federal Hill, P O. 178 ras. W house of public worship, free iot atll of R. and 125 W. of W C, sitruated I detTominations» 1 English school. 2 in the eastern part of the county. i Bible, I tract and 1 temperance socie- Hazard Forge, P. O. 212 rns^ty, I public library well supported, 5 from R. and 145 W. of W. C i mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 2 sad- MOOR FIELDS, P. V.&ndSeoAcf'dlers, 1 hatter. 3 smith shops, 2 cabi- Jwstice, 195 ms from R. and 128 W. net makers, 2 house carpenters, 2 boot of W. C. in lat 39''^ 02' N. and long. land shoe factories, 3 tailors, 1 wagon 2 " 02' W. of W. C. This village i$' maker, and 2 milliners. In the vi- sitiiated on the right bank of the South Icinity are 3 manufacturing flour mills branch of the Potomac, at the iunc jand 2 country mills, 2 carding and tion of the South fork, in one of the I fulling and dying machine. Fopu- richeot vallies in western Virginia, 50 lation 350 persons ; of whom 3 are at- ms. a little o. W. of Winchester. Ititorneys, and 4 regular physicians. contains besides the usual oountv| Cownty Courts q.xq held, on (ke. Zi buildings, -50 dwelling hou.v:", 11 7F?Ac«<»i/ in every month,— Q«rtr^e?Vy 46 ^ 362 WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON. m March, June, August and Novem-\seyera\ ms. under ground. This vil- l,er. lage was laid off in 1S27, and now Judge Smith holds his Circuit contains 17 dwelling houses, 1 house Superior Courts of Law and Chan- ot public worship, free for all denom- cery on the 2lst of April and Sc;;- inations, 1 common school, 2 taverns, tember. |l tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe Lost River, P. O. 130 ms. W. of maker, 2 tailors, 1 wagon maker, 1 W. C. situated in the eastern part of the county. Luney's Creek, P. O. 201 ms. from R. and 141 W. of W., "situated 1 ms. W. of Moor Field. Trout Run, or Wardensville, Election Precinct and P. V. 180 ms. from R. and 101 W. of W. This village is situated on Trout Run, which here unites with Lost River, and forms the great Cacapon. The great Cacapon is navigable at some seasons of the year, — its principal stream Lost River, rises within 2 ms. chair maker, 1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 1 milliner and mantua maker, 1 stone mason, and 1 smith shop. Popula- tion 75 persons; of whom 1 is a phy- sician. In the vicinity of this place, are 2 manufacturing flour mills, and 4 iron works, 2 forges for manufac- ture of bar iron, and 2 furnaces for making pig iron and castings. War- densville is situated 28 ms. from Win- chester, 18 from Woodstock, and equi distant 26 from the county seats of Hardy and Hampshire. It is destin- ed from its central situation, to become of WardeusviJle, after having passed ;a place of some importance. HAllKISON. Harrison was created in 1784, and formed from a portion of Mononga- lia. It is bounded N. and N. E. by Monongalia, E. by Randolph, S. by Lewis, and W. by Wood and Tyler. Its mean length is 50 ms. ; mean breath 22 and area 1 100 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 39° 03', to 39° 35' N. and in long, from 2° 53' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. The Western branch of the Monongahela river, enters the southern border of Harrison, and wind- ing N. N. E. receives from both sides, numerous creeks, Avhich drain the central and most considerable part of this county. The western part how- ever declines westward, and is drained by the sources of Middle Island creek. The surface of the whole county is much broken, but generally fer- tile. Population in 1320, 10,932—1830, 14,792. It belongs to the 18th judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,616 64 — in 1834, on lots, $133 21— on land, 1,056 27—339 slaves, $84 75—5,284 horses, $317 04— 28 studs, $106 00—11 carryalls, $11 00. Total, $1,708 27. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $976 13 — in 1833, $970 98. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Bridgeport, P. O. 266 ms. from R. and 220 from W., situated 10 ms. E. of Clarksburg, on Simpson^ s creek, a branch of the west fork of the Mo- nongahela river. The location ot the north western turnpike road runs ihrough the town of Bridgeport. It contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship free for all denomi- nations, 1 common school, 2 houses of entertainment, 1 grist and saw mill, and various mechanics. The situa- tion of this town is high and healthy, in a flourishing and densely settled WESTERN VIRGINIA— IIARR [SON. 3&2 part of the county, 1 1 ms. west ofj Prunty town. It contains 14 families and is improvincf. CLARKSBURG, P. V. and Scai of Justice, 200 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 226 from W. This healthy and thrivino: village is situated above, and S. S. W. of Morgantown, on the rig-ht bank of the Monongahela river, hear the centre of north western Vir- ginia, at the junction of Elk creek, Avith the west fork of the Monongahela, about 100 ms. by the post road south of Pittsburg, 250 W. of Baltimore, and 70 E. of the Ohio river. It is a corporate town and well built; con- taining besides the usual county build- ing.s, 100 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- dist house of worship, 2 common schools, a temperance, bible and Sun- day school society, 9 mercantile stores, a grist and an oil mill, 1 print- ing office which issues a weekly pa- per, I tanyard, 3 saddlers, and all oth- er mechanics usual or necssary for an inland town. There is a chalybeate spring, whence issues a never failing stream of highly medicinal water. This village stands on a rolling table land, surrounded by an amphitheatrej of hills, ranging in distance from a mile, to a few hundred yards. E//,' Run meadering through and around the town, adds additional beauty to the scene. Clarksburg is furnished with inexhaustible supplies of coal in its immediate neighborhood ; and being situated in the midst of a large and flourishing county, possessed ol valuable arable lands and great mine- ral wealth in its iron, salt, «fec. and being near the centre of N. W. Vir- ginia, — it may hope in time to become a place of considerable importance. Its present population is 700 persons: of whom 20 are attorneys, and 4 reg- ular physicians. County Courts are held on the 3f/ Monday, in every month: — Quar- terly in March, June, August and November. Judge Duncan holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chancery on the od of May, and October. TToFFsviLLK, P. O. 253 ms. from R. and 230 W. of VV. Lewisport, p. V. 290 ms. from R. and 250 from W,, situated 35 ms. W. of Clarksburg, and 25 both from Weston and Middlebourn, county seats of Lewis and Tyler, on the main stage road, at the point, at which it crosses Middle Island creek. This creek is a beautiful stream, which empties into the Ohio ; it is 75 yards wide, and navigable from its mouth to this place. Lewisport contains 8 dwelling houses, 1 Baptist house of worship, 1 common school, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing flour mill, and seve- ral mechanical establishment. Pop- ulation 50 persons; of whom 1 is a physician. This village is surroui>d- cd by endless quantities of valuable limber, — the neighborhood abound.s with stone coal and limestone; and mau)^ excellent sites for manufacto- ries. Wheat, rye, oats and timoth}^ are the principal products. The face of the coi^ntry is uneven, but the soU rich. ' Mii.FORr>. 265 m.'?. from R. and 233 from W. This village is pleasantly situated on the north bank of the 'wefet fork of the Monongahela river, 8 ms. S. S. W. of Clarksburg. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship, (Methodist) 1 house of pub- lic entertainment, 1 miscellaneous store, 1 tanyard, I hoot and shoe ma- ker, 1 gun smith, 1 house carpenter, 1 cooper, 1 grist and 1 saw mill. The land in the immediate vicinity of this village is level, but that of the suv rounding country is somewhat moun- tainous; but not so precipitous as to preclude its cultivation, to the very summit. The soil is generally good, the bottoms being a heavy soil, suited for meadow lands. The hills are generally a loose black soil, and vePy fertile. The products are Avheat, In- dian corn, rye, oats, flax, hemp and I various kinds of pulse and vegetabl'^s. 364 WESTERN VIRGINIA— HARRISON The lands are peculiarly adapted lo'. the Ohio river. The West Fork river raising cattle, which is one of the at this place, is 350 ft. wide, passes m principal staples of this county. Pop- a gentle current, and is navigable at ulation 61,— the odd one beinga slave, high water. It empties into the Ty- The neighborhood is thickly settled,! gart's Valley river, 14 ms. below this and bids fair to be a thriving coun-jvillage — the two forming the Monon- try, should a market ever .open to thislgahela of Virginia and Pennsylvania, place. The post office has lately been; Steam-boats might come to this place, moved from Milford to Lost creek, on! if there were no obstructing mill dams, the opposite side of the river. j The surrounding country is hilly and New Salem, P. O. 240 ms. W- ofi extremely broken, but exceedingly W. C. and 274 from R.- I well timbered with oak, shell bark. Prunty Town, P. V. 27G ms. from R. and 209 N, W- by w. of W- situated near the ferry acrossTygart's hickory, poplars (120 ft. high,) black locust, honey locust, sugar maple, black walnut, butter nut, beach, cot- Vallei/ river, 18 ms. N. £. by E. of; ton Avood, cypress, sycamore, birch, Clarksburg. It contains 18 dwelling! lynn; and affords an abundance of houses, 1 Methodist and I Baptist' gensang, snake root, &c. The coun- house of worship, 1 common school,! try around is thickly settled, and the 3 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, l! pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- tanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shocj culture, grazmg, and raising cattle, factories, 1 hatter, I tailor, 2 smith and furnishing of lumber for the va- shops, 1 gun smith, and 1 cabinet ma-l rious markets. The neighborhood of ker. Population 110. The surround; Shinnton in geological language ing country is somewhat broken, but would be called a secondary formation, the soil is good, and well adapted tO' based on calcarious and clay shist the grazing of cattle; and growing rocks, abounding in iron ore, and bi- every species of small grain. tuminous coal; the latter unusually Shinnston, P. V. 270 ms. from R. abundant, — several strata being dis- and 236 w. of w. C. This village! posed one above the other, in the same was laid off in the year 1817 by the! hill. The strata are usually 10 feet Rev. Asa Shinn and brothers, and in- deep, of excellent coal. The substra- corporated by act of Assembythesamej tum of earth is also, generally about year. It is situated on the right bankj 10 ft. deep, composed of a yellow al- ofthe West Fork river, on a beautiful; luminous clay, very suitable for potte- plain, containing about 30 acres of ry and brick. The super stratum is land, 15 ft. above high water mark,! a rich vegetable mould, about one 8 ms. N. E. of Clarksburg, and 30 foot deep, which if well cultivated^ S. W. of Morgantown. j produces excellent hemp, flax, maize. The improvements are 18 dwelling; wheat, sweet and Irish potatoes. Or^ houses, 1 house of public Avorship,:chards are nurtured with care, and free for all denominations, 1 common apples celebrated for size and flavor; school, 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 wag- peaches, plums, pears, pawpaws and gon maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun persimmons, and blackberries, grow smith, 1 watch maker and silver in such abundance that many ships smith, 3 cabinet makers, 1 saddler, 3 might be loaded with them. The for- boot and shoe factorie.s, 1 cooper, 1 ests abound with nuts and fruits tailor, 1 grist and 5 saw mills, seve-| which rear and fatten largo quantities ral house carpenters, and 10 lumber; of hogs, and reduce the price of pork merchants, by whom large quantities: to 2 cents per pound, — other products of lumber are shipped annually from' are equally cheap. Tlie climate is this place to the different markets on|mild, and the country generally well WESTERN VIRGilNIA— JACKSON. 36^ refreshed with rain during- the sum- mer months. In point of health this place has few superiors. Unimproved land is worth one dollar per acre, — improved from three to five dollars, and quarter acre lots in Skinnsion sell at fifteen dollars. The villac^e contains 17 families — aggregate pop- ulation 100 persons; of whom 1 is a physician. JACKSON. Jackson was created by the Legislature in March, 1 831, and formed from portions of Mason, Kanawha and Wood. It is hounded N. E. by Wood, E. by Lewis, S. by Kanawha, S. W. by Mason, and N. W. by the Ohio river. ' Its form is irregular. It lies betvVeen 38° 32' and 39° 12' N. lat. Its length is 33 ms. ; mean breath 24 ; and area 850 sq. ms. The Ohio Welshes its north western border for a space of 34 ms. Several large and valuable creeks intersect it. Great Mill creek rises in the southern part of the county, and after pursuing a south easterly course 15 ms. turns to the N., thence to the N. W. and empties into the Ohio, 4 ms. above the corner of the county. Its length is 65 ms., half of which is navigable for boats. Two miles below Ripley on this stream, are situated I manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw mill, 1 avooI carding and turning machine, a distillery and cab- inet maker's shop: a few miles below this, there is another mill. Sandy creek, 8 ms. N. of Great Mill creek, is the next stream in importance; it enters the Ohio in 39° 07' N. lat. This little creek is inhabited by an in- dustrious and enterprising class of people, who have in the last three years transported nearly S 10,000 worth of lumber to market. Pond creek in the northern part of the county is a good sized mill stream, but too small for navigation; the greater part of this stream is in Mason county. It empties into the Ohio in lat. 39° 15' N. Reedy and Spring creeks rise in this county, — the first pursuing a N. E., the latter a N. course. They pass into Wood county, and after a short course, empty into the Little Kanawlia." The West i-wr/; of Little Kanawha flows through this county, for a distance- of 10 ms. and affords some excellent sites for water works. Pocotalico rises in this county, and flowing in a south westerly course, it enters Ka- nawha county, and forms a junction with Little Kanawha river. This county is not mountainous, but may be said to be a mass of hills, the high- est of which, are in the eastern side of the county. The soil is, as in many parts of western Virginia, well adapted to grazing. The bottom lands along Mill creek and its branches, are of the first quality, — other creeks also present fine bottoms, and there is much arable land besides that on the watercourses. The productions of the county, are Indian corn, Avheat, rye, oaLs, flax, hemp, tobacco, potatoes and other productions usual in the same ' latitude. The principal exports from the interior part of the county, ar^" cattle and pork; — along the Ohio the people export large quantities of staves, hoop-poles, boats and lumber of every description. The agriculture of the county may be said to be yet in its infancy, however, large quantities of corn, &c. are carried down the Ohio annually, to different^markets. Or- chards are not numerous, but where they have been planted early and nur-' tured with care, produce in abundance. This county abounds with the finest of thrifty white oak, both on tlu bottoms and ridges, — also black oak, hickory, doo-wood, sugar maple, poplar, ash, elm, lynn and sycamore, and 366 WESTERN VIRGINIA— JACKSON. on many of the ridges groves of yellow pine. The lands along the Ohio river and other streams in this county, are alluvial, being composed of the washings of the higher lands and hills, in which it is no uncommon thing to find large logs, &c. buried a considerable depth below the surface; and the higher level lands along the Ohio river, are generally composed of sand and round gravel, similar to that found in the bed of the river, and com- monly lays in waves parallel to the river, which proves that it was once 60 or 70' feet higher than at the present time. There are in some of the north- ern ranges of hills in this county an abundance of excellent limestone; in some other parts there have been found small veins of mineral coal, and in the vicinity of the C. H. are appearances of salt water. There are in this county 3 mercantile stores, 8 saw mills, 5 grist mills, 1 distillery and 1 carding machine, and 5 tanneries. Population 3,300. It belongs to the 19th judicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $259 80— in 1834, on lots, S4 36— on land, $134 79—31 slaves, $7 75—972 horses. ^58 32 — 5 studs, $22 00. Total 227 22. No school commissioners re- port for 1832. Expended in 1833, $113 28. TOWNS, VILLAC4ES, POST OFFICES, &lc. RIPLEY, P. V. and Seat of Jus-] tice, 350 ms. N. of R. and 34rW. of| W., situated in lat. 38° 52' N., 8 ms. above Wright's mill, and 12 from the Ohio river, on the Great Mill creek, at its confluence with Sycamore creek. It is a flourishing village, although but recently established. From its location in the valley of Mill creek, and its being in a direct line between Charleston, Kanawha, (distant 42 ms.) and Parkersburg, in Wood Co., it is anticipated that it will one day be a place of some trade. At present it contains besides the ordinary coun- ty buildings, which are substantially built of brick, 12 dwelling houses, 2 hotels, 1 common school, 1 mercan- tile store, 1 mill wright, 1 house join- er, 2 smith shops, 1 tanyard. 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tailois, 1 brick layer and 1 saw mill. Populution about 120 persons; of whom 2 are at- torneys, and 2 regular physicians. There are within one mile of the C. H. 32 dwelling houses, and 160 in- habitants. Coayity Courts are held on the iih Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the lOfh of April and September, by Judge Summers, Reeds', P. O. 360 ms. N. W. of R. and 334 W. of W. C, situated 10 ms. N. of Rip]ey^ Wright's Mills, P. O. 315 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 315 S. W. by W. of W., situated at the falls of Great Mill creek. This place de- serves notice from the singular freak which nature has here played. The creek which is generally 80 yards wide, is here contracted to the space of forty-five feet, allowing between two ledges of rock which constitute the banks, to the height of 16 ft. over a bottom of solid rock. Immediately below this narrow passage, the creek widens to its usual size, and the falls commence. The descent is 7 feet in 120 yards. At the lower end of the falls, the creek is 100 yards wide, and affords one of the best harbors ever known in a stream of this size, being about 100 yards in diameter, of a cir- cular form, and on the N. side, pro- tected from ice, &c. by a high point of rocks, projecting a considerable dis- tance into the creek. From this to the Ohio river, the navigation is good during the spring freshets,- — a dis- WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. 367 tance of 4 miles- At this place arcl 11 dwelling houses, 3 school houses, situated, 1 extensive manufacturing 1 mercantile store, and 1 smith shop, flour mill, 2 sawmills, 1 grist mill,} Population 55. JEFFERSON. Jefferson was created by the Legislature in 1801, and formed from a portion of Berkley count}'. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, which separates it from Washington county, of Maryland, — E. by the Blue Ridge separating it from Loudoun, — S. by Frederick, — and W. by Berkley. Its mean length is 22 ms. ; breadth 10; and area 220 sq ms., extending in lat. from 39° 10', to 39° 20' N., and in long from 0° 43', to 1° 02' W. of W. C The Shenandoah river enters this county near its south eastern border, and flowing in a N. E. direction, parallel Avith the Blue Ridge, it enters the Potomac at Haper's Ferry. The face of this county is rolling but very fertile. Most of the inhabitants are good farmers; and the county is proba- bly as wealthy in proportion to its size as any in the state. The lands have beeu enhanced in value from 07ic hundred to one. hundred and fifty percent by the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road, both of which, reach the county at Harper's Ferry; and taken in connecr tioii with the Winchester and Harper's Ferry Rail Road, which passes di- agonally through the county, the Shenandoah flowing through the eastern portion, and the Potomac along the northern border, afford the citizens as many facilities for transportation as the tide water counties possess. The decline of the county is N. N. E. The water elevation at Harper's Ferry being 182 ft. above tide water, that of the arable soil cannot fall short of 400 ft. This county has been for the most part settled by old Virginia families from the eastern part of the state, and the inhabitants still retain that high chivalrous spirit, and. generous hospitalil}-, for which that race was so re- markable in the palmy days of their prosperity. Population in 1810, 11,851,— in 1820, 13,087— in 1830, 12,927. This county belongs to tha 13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,963 97 — in 1834, on lots, $677 93— land, $2,690 82—2,354 slaves, $588 50—4,308 horses, $258 48—17 studs, $232 00—143 coaches, $326 80—2 stages, $4 00—31 carryalls, $31 00—51 gigs, $38 50. Total, $4,848 08. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $705 26 — in 1833, $670 05. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, *Scc. CHARLESTOWN,P. V. and Seat of Justice, 182 ms. from R. and 60 N. W. of W., situated 10 ms. S. W. by W. of Harper's Ferry, with which it and several other schools, 9 mercan- tile stores, 2 apothecary shops, 1 printing office, from which a weekly paper is issued, 3 tanneries, 3 sad- is connected by an excellent turnpike. Idlers, 1 turner, and various other me- Besides the usual county buildings, it: chanics, and I manufacturing flour contains 200 dwelling houses, — a [mill. Its situation is eligible and Methodist, Episcopalian, and a Pres-j healthy, and surrounded by a fertile byterian house of worship, a branch! and wealthy country. The Shenan- of the Bank of the Valley, 1 academy 'doah Springs, formerly a place of con- 3$S WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. siderable resort, are in the neighbor-jin the United States. The principal hood of this place. The ^'i/ir/^es/erj curiosities of the place, are Jefferson's and Potomac Rail Road, now 'm\)Xo-\Yioc'k and the Maryland Pinnacle, gress, will pass through Charlestown.jfroni the highest point of which, with Population 1,200 persons: of whom 7jthe aid of a good glass, may be seen are attorneys, and G regular physi- towns at the distance of 30 ms. cians. I Those great national works, the County Courts are held on the 2>rd Chesapeake and Ohio _Cana2, and the Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, May, August and No- vember. Judge Parker holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the loth of March and 10//^ of October. Harper's Ferrv, P. V. 174 ms. from R. and 52 S. W. by W. of W. This place has risen at the justly cel- ebrated pass of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, and is situated im- mediately at the junction of the Poto- mac and Shenandoah rivers, on the right bank of Potomac, above the mouth of Shenandoah. The level of low water at the junction of the two rivers, is 182 ft. above tide water at Georgetown. It is distant 22 ms S. W. by W. of Frederick, Maryland, and 25 almost due south of Hagers town. It contains about 500 houses, Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road are now completed to this place, which circumstance has already had a very sensible effect on it, for the better. There are 3 arrivals and departures of the mail to and from the east, and 3 from the west in each week. There is also a mail from Hagerstown, by Harper's Ferry and Leesburg to Washington City, twice a Aveek. — ■ Formerly Harper's Ferry Avas con- sidered unhealthy, but for the last 5 years it has been quite the reverse. We borrow a more extensive ac- count of the scenery of Harper's Fer- ry, and the United States Armory and Arsenal, there located, from a pe- riodical published a k\v years since. "The Shenandoah, after running along the foot of the Blue Ridge in a direction nearly north-cast, turns sud- denly to the east, and mingles its wa- ters with those of the Potomac, at the 2 hotels kept in the best style, 3 houses of public worship, 1 Metlaodist,! point where the latter, after flowing 1 free for all denominations, and 1 through a deep and well wooded dell, Catholic. The last is one of the, from north-west to south-east, is en- handsomest and neatest buildings in tering that singular gap in the Ridge, the state, — in this church, there is a line toned organ, and it is ornamented through Avhich the waters escape. The valleys of both rivers are roman- by a beautiful steeple, which ascends! tic, and that of the Potomac unites srn- to the height of about 150 ft. abovejgularity with beauty. the level of the river. There are 2| We arc accustomed to find valleys academies, (I male, and 1 female,) andj running parallel to mountain chains 2 common schools, 9 mercantile stores] and separating ridge from ridge ; the and 2 apothecary shops, a lodge of| whole of the great valley, which lies masons, and 1 ot odd fellows, \ print- 1 between the North Mountain and the ing office, from which a weekly pa-i Blue Ridge, and which is called in per is issued, 4 tailors, 3 boot anu shoe factories, 1 saddler, 1 silversmith, 1 coppersmith and tin plate worker, 3 house carpenters, 2 smith shops. and 1 wagon maker. There are 2 extensive manufacturing flour mills this part of the country "the valley" par L.tcdlence, presents an alternation of such parallel, low lands and inter- vening heights; the Shenandoah oc- cupying one of the former. But the valley of the Potomac is not of this and 1 of the most valuable caw mills class, it intersects at right angles the WESTERN VIRGINIA— JEFFERSON. m great mountain ranges and the sys-f every part of the channel, whose sides teni of smaUer elevations which are.arL' worn by thousands .of petty rapids, subordinate to them ; and the river is which fret and struggle among the thus distinguished from the more nu- larc'e blocks of granite. merous class of streams, which oc- cupy the bottoms of ordinary valleys. The Potomac is not, however, a soli- tary example of this kind, on the con- trary, most of our great Atlantic riv- ers pencLrale the mountains by exten- sive lateral valleys, or are said, with some degree of impropriety, to break through the mounlaini; at right angles to their direction. These profound passes are not uncommon in other parts of the world, and present seve- ral varieties. A deep ravine, in which the rocks, presenting unequal resis- tance, have separated unequally, and where the stream, which rushes through this accidental outlet, leaps from rock to rock, and is alternately seen foaming in the cataract or lost inthc nirroiv and gloomy gulf be- low: in short where the waters are not to be regarded as flowing over a bed, but rather as penetrating through crevices, which earthquakes have bro- ken in the immense wall that confined them. Such is the appearance, which theory would ac^sign to these trans- verse valleys and their streams ; but such is not the valley of the Potomac. As seen from Harper's Ferry it pre- sents a bed of nearly uniform declivi- ty and width, corresponding in these respects with that of the Shenandoah, a valley, as I have before observed, of a. different class. The channels of both rivers arc of rock, much broken, hut presenting on the whole a regular declivity, and passing in highly in- clined strata across the river. The prevailing rocks of the whole neigh- borhood being a coarse granite con- taining unusually large grains of (juartz, and a species of slate stone. The breadth of the Potomac is from fwo h-undred and fifty to three hun- dred yards;' thdt of the ■?!u->an.l^'th The town extends itself in contempt of all order, along both sides of the hill which divides the two riverS, and runs up to the jaws of the picturesque, but in no way tremendous, pass of the Potomac. At the point of this tongue of land is the armory ; on the loft, and nearly even with the water, the work- ing part of the arsenal: on the right and over hanging the western bank ofthe Shenandoah, is Jefferson's Rock. On the opposite banks of the tu'o rivers the clifls are more bold and striking. That, on the Maryland side, is suppo.sed to resemble the pro- file of Washington, an illusion very pleasing to those whose minds are not adapted to relish the beauties of na- ture. The two cliffs, of Avhich we have spoken, form a noble entrance to the romantic valley which lies be- yond, embosomed among woods and mountains and winding among the projections of the latter until its exit is again guarded by immense rocks, where a passage, corresponding to that at Harper's Ferry, is broken through the Short Hills — a chain pa- rallel to the Blue Ridge, and con- nected with it by spurs which inclose on every side this dell that contains so many elements of the picturesque. The mountains, ofconsiderable height, are clothed to their summit by forests of oak and pme, from out the thick shade of which, project immense masses of granite, that yet stand the stern witnesses of some tremendous convulsion, the traces of wliich hot even time, that has for thousands of years been scattering their ih'hrh daily below, has been abl-e to oblite- rate' The base of these mountains presents elevated and very rugged cliffs, which, projecting into the val- 1,M'. b'-'^ak its uv'i stores, and all the necessary mechanics for an inland town. There are 4 merchant mills, one of which has an overshot wheel of about 24 feet diameter, and the oth- ers of about 20. There is a small stream of considerable fall which uns through the town, immediately opposite to which is an inlet lock, to the ("Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. Shepherdstown has 3 hou.'^es of public worship, and a population of about 1000. KANAWHA. Kaxaavha was created by the Legislature in 1789, from a portion of Greenbrier and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Wood, — N. E. by Lewis, — E. by Nicholas, — S. E. by Fayette, — S. and S. W. by Logan, — W. by Cabell, — and N. W. by Mason and Jackson Its mean length is 58 miles — mean breadth 36; and area 2,090 sqcare miles; extending in lat. from 37° 53' to 38° 53' N. and in long, from 3° 55' to 4° 25' W. of W. C. Gauly river unites with New river, to form the Great Kanawha, up- on the eastern border of the county. The Kanawha then flows through tlae county in a N. W. direction into Mason; receiving in its passage Elk ri- ver from the N. E., — Coal river from the S. E., and Pocatalico from the North. — We cannot refrain from giving here a letter from an eminent lite- rary gentleman of this State to his friend in the lower country, which gives agraphic description of the magnificent Valley or the Kanawha. "■You have often visited the mountain region of Virginia, and tasted of her various and unrivalled mineral waters. You have mingled with the fashionable throng at the White Sulphur, — regaled your palate upon the. fine venison and other dainties of the forest, and bathed in the delicious foun- tain of the Warm Springs. You have never, I believe, however, extended your journey as far West as the Valley of Kanaichoy. The great state road which commences at Covington, and secures you a safe passage to Lewisburg, passing the gigantic Alleghanies at a grade which is almost level, — pursues its winding yet steady course over ranges of lofty moun- tains, and through wild and hitherto unbroken depths of wilderness and shade. Now and then it courses along the margin of some rocky and stupendous precipice, often several hundred if not a thousand feet in depth, — and as the mail coach drawn by four spirited steeds, whirls you along the perilous cliff, — you feel an involuntary shuddering at the slender bar- rier which separates you from eternity. The blue mist wliich hovers along the yawning chasm beneath, and is visible through the variegated foilage which obscures without concealing the view, — impresses the mind with unde- linable iiiiagvs of da'ig-.r; an:l i;;d'^e.; it would bo well if the terrors which are sometimes inspired were those of imagination only, — for 1 havelicen credi- bly informed that in more than one instance, the lives of travellers have been exposed to imminent peril. At one of those narrow defiles, the spot was pointed out where the stage with eight passengers and driver rolled down a steep declivity of fifty feet. Fortunately the nature of the ground arrested its downward course, and still more fortunately, I had almost said ^71 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. miraculously, although the luckless vehicle turned two or three somersets and was actually shattered into fragments, neither horse or passenger suf- fered material injury. Notwithstanding these disasters which occasionally await the traveller, this important and convenient highway which unites the east and west, is a noble monument of skill, enterprise and labor. In its vast utility to the country which it intersects, it may justly be compared to the introduction of steam navigation on our western waters. Distance and time are in a great measure overcome, or perceptibly diminished, and a journey which was once performed with insupportable fatigue and de- lay, is now achieved in one fourth of the time, and with comparative ease. Before reaching the valley of the Kanawha, the traveller is feasted by the sublime and picturesque scenery from the clifis of New river, which is one of the principal tributaries to the Kanawha. One of these clifis has been long known by the name of the Haiok's Nest — but more recently called Marshairs PUlar, in honor of the Venerable Chief Justice who as one of the Stdte Commissioners in 1812, stood in person upon its fearful brink and sounded its exact depth to the river margin. Every one has heard of the far famed falls of Niagara — and yet 1 doubt if the beholder of that u^onderful cataract ever experienced more of the true sublime, than the grand and elevating prospect from Marshall's Pillar, is apt to inspire. Imagine yourself standing upon the projecting point of a perpendicular rock, 1200 feet from the valley below. Before you, as you look to the east, the New river is seen at the "distance perhaps of several miles, winding or rather rushing, tumbling and foaming through the towering clifl^s which environ it. Sweeping by the lofty promontory on which you stand, it sud- denly turns its course in a south west direction, and presents in the whole distance several beautiful cascades, which send to the listening ear the far off; but lulling sound of their waters. The cliffs themselves, judging by the horizontal and corresponding strata of rock on ehher side, seem to have been originally united, but torn asunder by some strong convulsion of na- ture, in order to give free passage to the narrow but angry torrent which rolls majestically at their feet. The autumnal season gives to this impos- ing picture a magnificent and gorgeous drapery of which no man whose vision has been confined to the lowland scenery has the slightest concep- tion. On one side a dark outline is defined by the shadow from the oppo- site cliffs, which leaving the base of the mountain of a sombre browai, pre- sents its summits shining with the rich and mellow tints of an October sun. In gazing from the dizzy heigth where the spectator is perched amidst sublime and solitary deserts, it requires but little effort of fancy to portray the haggard and inspired bard of Gray, standing " On a rock whose haughty brow Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood." No hostile Edward it is true, is marching through this wilderness with his embattled legions, to victory and slaughter; on the contrary, a profound stillness prevails, which adds interest and solemnity to the scene — a still- ness which is disturbed by nothing save the distant wave which seems, but seems only to murmur at the base of the cliff! So sublime indeed is its elevation, that whilst nothing seems easier than to cast a pebble from its beetling verge into the bed of the stream, the most powerful arm is foiled in the attempt. " After feasting on the sublimo repasts which nature spreads before the I WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 375 eye of the tourist on these romantic cliffs, he is better prepared to enjoy by contrast his descent into the fertile and lovely vale of the Kanawha. That beautiful stream is formed by the junction of the Gauley and New rivers, at the base of the Gauley mountains. A short distance only below the point where the waters mingle, the ear of the traveller is saluted by the roar of the Great Falls — a fine cataract of twenty-two feet over a natural dam of rock which spreads irreg;ularly across the Kanawha. I should judge from the sketches of the Great Niagara, by artists and picturesque tourists, that this was its copy in miniature. Certain it is, that on approach- ing the cataract which you can easily do, over the vast masses of naked rock, which rise from the bed of the river — you feel the effect of the spec- tacle in all its sublimity. I will not say as Byron said of the cascade of Velino, that it is "horribly beautiful" — or that " An Iris sits, midst its infernal surge, Like hope upon a death bed." There is nothing which awakens infernal images in the cataract of Ka- nawha, but I saw distinctly the rainbow reposing its brilliant arch upon the white foam of the waters. Whatever disappointment, however, the limner might experience in his visit to this interesting spot, the epicure would meet with none at the spacious Hotel which stands opposite the falls. To all lovers of the finny tribe, it is a perfect paradise. Here are fish, which if not unknown, are yet untalked of on the borders of our Atlantic streams. The delicious black perch, the grennel, the bkie cat, the fine flavored bufialo, and a species of sturgeon, all abound in profusion, and all present their respective claims to preference. If to these luxuries of the water, be added wild fowl, and forest game, which are found in abun- dance, the most fastidious gourmand might desire no higher fruition than is afforded in this favored region. For many miles after leaving the falls, the Kanawha Valley is narrow — winding — and unprepossessing. Its gigantic and various growth is in- deed interesting to the lowland traveller — and the vast masses of rock which tower in magnificent pride to the very summit of the mountains — are objects of curiositj'' and attention. At the same period in autumn, na- ture was perceptibly not so far in the "sear and yellow leaf as in the more mountainous and elevated region. Her robe was fresher and greener, but yet there was not wanting that splendid variety and intermixture of colors which distinguish the western forests. The bright orange or golden yellow of the linn, the sugar tree and hickory were beautifully contrasted with the evergreen laurel, and with the dark and mournful hemlock. Now and then some parasitical creeper could be seen Avinding its brilliant red among the branches of a lofty tree of different foliage — and the gaj' and graceful sumach would hang out its crimson drapery to delight the beholder. Unlike the lowland shrub of the same name, the sumach of the west is admitted into the family of trees; and so I presume it is in England, for otherwise the lines of Aloore would not be intelligible. In the shade of yon sumach, whose red berry dips In the gush of the fountain, how sweet to recline. Lovers unless they belonged to the race of pigmies, could hardly recline in the shade of one of our dwarfish sumachs in Eastern Virginia. " It is nearly twenty miles below the falls, before the Kanawha Valley 376 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. widens into something like a plain, and opens its beautiful vista to the ey<;. The mountains which inclose it on either side become gradually depressed into hills — and for the first time the dense dark volumes of smoke which ascend from the salt furnaces, announce the busy and bustling scene which enlivens the highway to the village of Charleston. What a scene of ani- mation indeed, contrasted with the deep solitudes from which the traveller has but just emerged. — Here he is feasted with a continued succession of green meadows and cultivated fields teemmg with flocks and herds, and adorned by commodious and even elegant mansions. The chimnies of the salt manufactories pour forth at short intervals of space their curling masses of black vapor, whilst swarms of laborers and others connected with these establishments, ar>j canrlnually passing to and fro, — presenting a pleasing coup (V (Til of incessant activity and industry. — Nature indeed seems to have been prodigal in her bounties to this interesting region. The con- tiguous forests having been almost stripped to supply fuel to the salt fur- naces, — the precious mineral so necessary to human comfort, must have remained forever useless but for the discovery of inexhaustible beds of coal, so convenient of access, as to make the cost of procuring it scarcely worth considering. Sometimes, by suitable platforms and inclined culverts, it is thrown from the mountain side immediately to the door of the manufactory, and when more remote from the place of consumption, it is transported with equal ease in wagons or cars over rail roads constructed for the pur- pose. The whole product of the salt district, is estimated at 1,200,000 bushels annually — and this product must continue to swell with the increasing de- mand, and with the employment of additional capital. It is a curious fact, and worthy of philosophical inquiry, that whilst the salt water is obtained by boring at a depth of from 3 to 500 feet below the bed of the Kanawha, it invariably rises to a level with the river. When the latter is swollen by rains, or the redundant waters of its tributaries, — the saline fluid enclosed in suitable gums on the shore, ascends like the mercury in its tube, — and oily fills, when the rivor is restored to its wonted channel. How this mys- terious correspondence is produced, is a problem which remains to be solved. Theories and speculation, I have heard on the subject, but none seem to me to be precisely consonant with the principles of science. Immediately on the road and a short distance from the bank of the river, the celebrated Burning Spring, attracts the curiosity of the traveller. A cavity in the earth of a few feet in diameter, presents at its bottom several small orifices from which an odorous gas, or strong bituminous vapor is constantly exhaled. When ignited by a lighted candle, which is easily done, the whole becomes a sheet of flame, and is only extinguished by the plentiful application of water. Filling the cavity with water previously to ignition, does not diminish the brightness or fierceness of the blaze. In- flammable gasses undoubtedly abound in many portions of the valley. An anecdote illustrating the fact, was frequently related in my hearing, which 1 cannot forbear to repeat. A very respectable gentleman somewhat ec- centric and a little profiine, had been boring for salt to the depth of GOO feel, when his friends endeavored to dissuade him from the costly experiment. "Salt I will have" he exclaimed, "if T b^-m fbr V< fn the iuf^nial rcir^oiis !" Accordingly he pressed on in pursuit of his object— with renewed perse- verance and ardor — and his boring apparatus having penetrated one of those sublciraiicous recesses, where nature generates her mysterious and WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 377 tevrilic agents — a volume of flame suddenly burst through the orifice, and ascending far above the earth's surface, spread terror and amazement in the neighborhood. The less enlightened and superstitious, of course, fancied that the profane gentleman's threats had been really carried into execution, and that the contents of the awful and undefinable pit had been actually disgorged upon mother earth. "This charming country is not only rich in beautiful and picturesque scenes, but abounds in objects interesting to the naturalist and antiquarian. Besides its inexhaustible treasures of salt and coal, a quarry of fine marble has been recently found on the Elk river, and I doubt not that discoveries equally valuable would reward the diligent explorer. Specimens of slate stone, and other formations with impressions of vegetable remains are common, and a gentleman of science and distinction, informed me that coral had been found deeply imbedded in rock. Among the curiosities, may be mentioned, the Callico and Pictured rocks; the former of which represents a series of beautiful and uniform figures, inscribed by some won- derful process of nature, and the latter which is evidently a work of art, exhibits a variety of rude sketches of birds, fishes and beasts — generally supposed to be specimens of aboriginal sculpture. "There is, as I am informed, some miles from the bank of the Kanawha, a curious petrified tree, and the whole country is full of Indian fortifications and mouuds. From one of these ancient sepulchres an intelligent gentle- man stated to the writer, that a human skeleton was taken not many years since, probably the remains of some distinguished chief, whose exploits in battle or the chase had won the admiration of his tribe. "Indeed there is no department o( natural history Avhich might not be enriched by valuable acquisitions from this and almost every other portion of Western Virginia. The development of its boundless mineral wealth would not only extend the borders of science, but materially subserve the useful arts and the interests of commerce. Let channels of inter-commu- nication wuh the east be opened and multiplied by a liberal system of im- provement — let a geological survey be authorized by the Legislature, in imitation of the wise policy of Pennsylvania and Maryland — and the pa- triot will not yet despair of beholding this ancient and venerable State re- gaining her lost rank in the confederacy. "In enjoying the pleasures and advantages of safe transportation along the great State road, which traverses this section, there is a spectacle often presented, which awakens a melancholy train of reflections. I allude to the number of emigrants, who allured by the hope, sometimes deceptive, of improving their condition, are bending their toilsome march to the far wes:. Imagination becomes busy in conjuring up the broken ties of early asso- ciation, of kindred and country — and we read in the sorrowful visages of some of these wretched fugitives, tales of mental and bodily suflering, which no language could express. It is true, that some of these number- less caravans present the exterior of comfort and even happiness, but for the most part it is evidently the last struggle of despairing poverty, to escape from the hardships of its lot. Whilst' the philanthropist shudders at such scenes of wretchedness, the politician must mourn over the unceas- ing drain to population, as well as the causes which produce it. I trust, at least, if the wave of emigration must continue to flow westwardly, that the time will shortly come, when the forests and mountains of our own Com- 48 378 WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. monwealth, will present sufficient attractions to break its force, it does not entirely arrest it." , . ,. Population in 1820, 7,000—1830, 9,326. It belongs to the 19th judi- cial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,520 23— in 1834 on on lots, $180 34— land, $808 87—1197 slaves, $294 75—2197 horses $131 82—9 studs, $89 00—22 coaches, $51 00—22 carryalls, $22 00 10gigs,$6 85. Total, $1,585 13. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $814 72— in 1833, $752 88, TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Burning Spring. This natural | runs through a romantic valley, with- curiosity is situated in the low grounds- out receiving any tributary of any of the Great Kanawha river, 7 ms. above the mouth of Elk river, and 67 above that of the Kanawha. The spring is a cavity in the earth of the capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from which issues constantly a bituminous , consequence, from the junction of its north east and its west Fork, until it receives Little Coal river from the south. Much trade is carried on by the hardy mountaineers who dwell on the banks of this river, in boats vapor in so strong a current as to for the carriage of salt, and saw logs, give to the sand about its orifice the motion which it has in a boiling spring. On presenting a lighted candle or torch within iS inches of the hole, it flames up in a column of 18 inches in diameter, and four or five feet in height, which sometimes burns out within 20 minutes, and at other times has been knoAvn to con- tinue three days, and then has been left still burning. The flame is un- steady, of the density of that of burn- ing spirits, and smells like burning pit coal. Water sometimes collects in the bason which is remarkably cold, and is kept in ebullition by the vapor issuing through it. If the vapor be fixed in that state, the water soon becomes so warm that the hand cannot bear it. This with the cir- cumjacent lands Avas the property of General Washington and of General Lewis. CoALSMOTJTii, P. V. 319 ms. from R. and 368 from W., situated on the south side of the Kanawha river, 12 ms. below the town of Charleston, and at the mouth of Coal river. This little river is about 100 yards wide at its mouth, and does not vary this width for many miles above. It is a beautiful meandering stream, which which are brought down in times of freshet, from a distance of an hun- dred miles. These boats sell on the Kanawha for one dollar, to a dollar and twenty-five cents for each foot in length, and the logs Irom a dollar to one dollar and fifty cents per log. This money is laid out in goods, with which the enterprising woodsman re- turns. The obstructions in Coal river prevent its navigation in ordi- nary seasons. The lower falls of Coal river are situated 5 miles above the mouth, — and 5 miles above these are the upper falls. These falls, from the great water power which they afford at all seasons, will in time be- come places of considerable impor- tance. A few years hence and this section will become a fine wheat country. It is rapidly filling up with industrious, honest and enterprising people, and soon a plenty of the raw material will be found for manufac- tories, and if a scarcity of produce should occur by bad crops, the trans- portation from Ohio by steam boats, costs in comparison but little, and can be brought to any point, not distant three miles from either of the ialls. From its local advantages and the tide of immigration, it must in a few WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. 379 years become much of a manufactu ring country. On the river Coal is found a great deal of very fine land, and the country is not so mountain- ous, or the sides so precipitous as to preclude their cuUivatlon. The quantity of game has depreciated considerably within the last 10 years, which is an evidence of the great in- crease of population; however the industry of the inhabitants furnishes a sufficient quantity of fine venison, and other wild game for the table, and the calculation may be in obtain- ing for years a reasonable supply for home consumption. Some few years ago the inhabitants made it one of their sources of traffic, but since the enterprise of these hardy sons of the forest has been turned into another channel, they seldom have time, or feel disposed to hunt, except to obtain venison for their own families and the neighborhood. The river affords in season the finest fish. The large black and white perch, the salmon pike, large cat fish, &,c. &c. The delicious soft shell turtle is abundant, and can be obtained with little trou- ble, and is by far superior to the sea turtle. The shell is cooked and sur- association with families wlio immi- grated from Eastern Virginia, have made wonderful change in the mor- als of the people. About a half mile up the river Coal, is a beautiful covered bridge. This bridge is on the turnpike road belonging to the State; below the bridge is a well graduated road, leading to and from the ford, which is seldom for four months in the year more than 1 2 inches deep, the water passing over a fine sandy bottom. At the bridge is a tavern kept in the best style, a black- smith shop, a tailor and carpenter shop, a house of public worship, (Methodist,) and 4 private families, with 2 regular physicians. At this place the stage passengers going to and from the M'est, dine. The post office is kept here, and four mails ar- rive from different points and are opened at this office — two daily and two three times a week. A por- tion of the land at this place has late- ly been laid oft' in half acre lots, with a view of establishing a town, and some of the lots have already been sold, and many buildings are in pro- gress of erection. A large manu- factory is about going into operation. passes the fine green fat turtle. Coaljand an extensive and well assorted river is fordable four months in the mercantile store has lately been es- year. At Coalsmouth there isa good tablished, and there is every proba tavern, a mercantile store, and 3 pri-' '" • - ' vate families; about 1 mile from the mouth, down the Kenawha, isa large steam manufacturing mill, a grist and saw mill, a cooper's, a tailor's and blacksmith's shops, and 4 private families. The bottom land about the mouth of Coal is rich, and in ex-! posing of his surplus produce, his tent about a half mile wide. The! wheat can at all times be sold at his usual average crop of the farmer is door from 62 J to 75 cents per bushel, and the cash paid. Coal river de- rives its name from the quantity of coal in which it abounds, and that of bility that Coalsmouth in a few years will become a handsome and "lluur- ishing village, extending from the bridge to the mouth of Coal river. The immigration to the west through this place is very great, which gives to the farmer an opportunity of dis- 50 bushels of corn and 25 of wheat to the acre. The country at this point has a grand and beautiful ap- pearance, — the neighborhood is com- 'the finest quality. The resources of posed of many refined and wealthy i this neighborhood and county are in- families; — some kw years back the; calculable, and to the enterprising inhabitants were unrefined, and rude {man holds out advantages truly flat- in their manners, but religion and an tering. The country is remarkably 38U WESTERN VIRGINIA— KANAWHA. healthy, — no local disease is attached to the neighhorhood. Hansford, P. O. 292 ms. from R. and 333 S. W. by W. of W., situated on the Kana^vha turnpike, opposite to the mouth of Paint's creek, or as some call it, Ycllotv river, — 21 ms. E. of Charleston, and 1 4 W. of the Falls of the Great Ka- naAvha. The only houses are a mer- cantile store, and a house of enter- tainment. There are in the imme- diate vicinity 3 miscellaneous stores, 1 Baptist house of worship, and a temperance society. The principal pursuits of the inhabitants are agri- culture, and building flat boats to navigate the Kanawha. These boats are generally from 60 to 100 feet in lenffih. KANAWHA C. H. or Charles- ton, P. V. and neat of justice, 308 ms. N. W. by W. of R., and 3.5C from W. This is a beautiful little village, situated on the north bank of ihe Great Kanawha, at the junction of Elk river, 60 ms. above the junc- tion of the former with the Ohio, and 225 ms. W. ot Charlottesville. Its principal street extends about a mile on the bank of the Kanawha, and is terminated by the Elk, which flows nearly at right angles into the former .stream. Indeed there is something like enchantment in the contrast o this flourishing village, with the wild- ness and solitude of the same spot, less than 30 years past. The panther and wolf, have been driven from their savage haunts, by the march of civili- zation and refinement — and where a iew scattered log huts once arrested the traveller's eye, he now sees com- modious and elegant buildings, the abodes of comfort and even of luxu- ry. The village contains besides the ordinary county buildings, 125 dwel- ling houses, all presenting a neat and fresh appearance. There are 2 houses of public worship, ( 1 Presby- terian and 1 Methodist,) a female academy, and an infant school, a Branch of the Bank of Virginia, a masonic lodge and chapter, a bible society, a tract, colonization and sun- day school society. There are 13 miscellaneous stores, 3 hotels, 3 smith shops, and 1 tanyard, 2 steam saw mills, and one steam merchant mill. The Kanawha river is here a beau- tiful sheet of water, more than 300 yards wide and 20 feet deep at low water, — navigable for steamboats. The state turnpike passess through this town, on which there is a line of stages from Washington city and Richmond to Guyandotte, which car- ries the mail from these two cities in four days and a half Population about 800 persons; of whom 7 are attorneys, and 3 regular physicians. Charleston is remarkable for the li- berality and enterprise of its inhabi- tants. The hills adjacent abound with fine quarries of sandstone for build- ing, and rich bituminous stone coal, which is the common fuel. County Courts are held on the 2(i Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Summers holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the \\th of May and October. Kanawha Saline or Terra Salts, P. O. 308 ms. N. W. of R., fland 350 N. W. by W. of W This is a new and small village situated on the northwestern side of the Kanaw- ha river abovit G miles above Charles- ton, containing 20 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, a Methodist and a Presbyterian house of worship, and 1 hotel. The town is directlj'- con- nected with the salt trade, and rapid- ly improving. — A daily mail arrives at this place. Kanawha Salt Works. These valuable works are situated on the Kanawha river, commencing near Charleston, and embracing a distance of 15 miles aboA'e, on each side of the river. The salt water is obtained anywhere within that distance, by WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 381 boring' or sinking a shaft, from three to live hundred feet below the bed of the river, through a solid rock, from which it is brought to the surface through the surrounding fresh water, in copper tubes, and is raised to the bank of the river by steam engines, and IS thrown into cisterns, whence it is conveyed to the furnaces. There are at present about GO furnaces, manufacturing about one million two hundred thousand bushels annually, and the quantity is only limited by the demand. The adjacent hills abound with stone coal of a superior quality, which lies in horizontal strata, varying in thickness Irom 4 to 7 feet. The coal is conveyed from the mines to the furnace on rail road.s. There has been for the last year a furnace manufacturing allum salt by steam, which is said to be equal to the imported article. At this furnace 100 bushels of this salt are made per day. Several others are erecting on the same plan, and will soon be in operation. The exports of the sah from these works in 1832, is estimat- ed as being worth to the proprietors S250,000. Seldom has it fallen to the lot of any region of country to possess such inexhaustible sources oi mineral wealth on the borders of a fine nevigable river, leading to a re- gion of country which will one day be filled with almost boundless mul- titudes of people. PocoTALico, p. O. 318 ms. from R. and 253 S. W. of W. Tkage's Valley, P. O. 328 ms. from R. and 376 S. W. of W., situ- ated in the western part of the coun- ty, 20 ms. W. of Charleston. Walnut Grove, P. O. 330 ms. from R. and 379 S. W. by W. of W., situated in the western part of the county, on the left bank of the Great Kanawlia river, 25 ms. below Charles- ton, and 35 above the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio. No town has yet been laid out at this place, but a steam saw mill, a mercantile store, wood yard, &c., concentrate a good proportion of business. A steam manufacturing flour mill, and some other manufactories, are about going into operation, which with the advantages that the site derives from the facility of transportation in the surrounding country, the abundance of fine coal and limber in the neigh- borhood, and the facilities of the navigation, will probably place it among the thriving villages of the west. L.EE. Lee County, was taken from Russell in the year 1792, it is situated 400 hundred miles W. S. W. of Riclunond, — bounded N. and AV. by the Cumberland mountains, separating it from the State of Kentucky, S. by Tennessee, E. by the county of Scott, and N. E. by the county of RusseL This county is singularly laid out, owing to its lying in Powel's valley, which is narrow: it is of considerable length and quite narrow, — its ex- tent from E. to W. is 83 ms., while its width from N. to S. does not exceed 15 ms., and area 800 sq. ms., extending in lat. 3G° 30' to 37° 06' and in long. 5° 35' to 6=" 30' W. of W. C. This county is famous for the richness of the soil, productiveness of the lands, and largeness of the timber; among the growth of which is found the sugar maple, ash, buckeye, poplar, black and white walnut, lynn, black and white oak, maple, elm, cucumber, and beach: all of which grow very large and tall. The land is of a very black,' 382 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. rich soil, well adapted to growing coin, hemp, wheat, rye, oats, Irish pota- toes and timothy. This county has many fine and excellent springs of water, breaking out from the base of the mountains, which make their way briskly down the vallies, which are deep and narrow, and consequently afford fine mill seats. The principal mountains are, Powell's mountain, Walden's ridge, the Stone mountain, Little Beach and Big Black. Walden's ridge takes its rise in the N. E. of this county, and runs S. W. into the State of Tennessee; these mountains and ridges are all rich on the N. side, while they are extremely poor on the S. side. The N. sides of the mountains abound with limestone of very hard quality, while the S, sides are covered with free stone. There is a leading small ridge, called the Poor Valley Ridge, which is entirely the reverse of any other in this range of hills and mountains, while the others are all poor, — on the S. side it is very rich and productive, while the N. side of this Ridge is very poor. There is a knob called Stock- er's knob in the N. E. part of the county, which is very high, 3 miles long, and at the E. end is a settlement called the Turkey Cove; and at the W, end is a another fine settlement called Yacum Station; these are two as fine settlements as the county affords. There is one other place worthy of no- tice, found among the mountains of this county, and that is a very high peak, called the Butt of Powell's mountain. The mountain here bends pre- cisely in the form of a horse shoe; — this bend of the mountain forms a most delightful cove of L^ miles in width, which is as level as a bowling green, and as rich as the delta of the Nile, covered thickly with trees of the largest growth, and the greatest height. " Precisely N. of this high peak called the butt, the north fork of Clmch river takes its rise, and runs through the mountain; this gap through which the creek runs, is one of the most pic- turesque places in western Virginia. The mountain almost perpendicular on both sides, and covered with huge masses of craggy rocks, that look as though they would tumble from their sandy foundations, and fill the deep valley below, presents to the traveller one of the most striking displays of omnipotent power." On the E. side of this water course, we have one of the most noted salt-petre caves ever known ; from which, there has been an immense quantity of salt-petre made. This cave is situated very near the top of Powel's mountain, and may be easily discovered from the valley, where you may see hillocks of the earth, from which the salt-petre has been extracted. There are also large beds of fine iron ore, from which some years ago, there was a small quantity of fine iron made at the iron works, on the north fork of Clinch river, which works has since gone into ruins. There are also other beds of fine iron ore in this county, lying on Martin's ereek, from which, there is at this time a quantity of iron made. There are row two forges situated on Martin's creek, which make excellent iron: also two on Indian creek, with one furnace for making castings. The princi- pal vi/'ater courses, are Powell's river, Walden's creek, Martin's creek, In- dian creek and Trading creek. On the waters of this creek, the main road, ascends a considerable ridge, over which there has been a road of very an- cient date, as there are at this time, growing in the middle of the bed of the road, trees of the larges growth. The ascension of the ridge by the way of this road, shows that the greatest judgment and care, had been taken in lo- cating and constructing the road. It is supposed that it has been ages since this road was constructed, as the earliest settlers of the county, found it as above described. There are in the country of Lee, 4 Methodist churches, 3 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEE. 383 Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. There arc 13 Methodist ministers, G Baptist ministers regularly ordained, and 2 physicians. The staple of this county- is stock, such as beef, pork and horses, — the pork is carried to eastern Vir- ginia, the beef to Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the horses to Virginia, or North Carolina. The merchandize of every description is purchased in Bahimore, or Philadelphia. The people of this county make their own sugar and Molasses, from the sugar tree, which grows in great abundance, on the N. sides of all the mountains and creek bottoms. The tree is of a rough, short bark, spreading top and straight body, some quite white, and others very black. Those which are black have the sweetest water, and are very apt to be pecked very much by a bird of small size, called the sap- suck- er. The trees are chopped with a small axe, and bored with a small augur or gimblet, and a tube placed in the orifice, through Avhich the water is car- ried into a small trough, placed for the purpose of catching the water. The tree which is thought to afford a common quantity of water, will, if there is a hard freeze, and a warm day after it, afford 8 gallons of water, Avhich will always make one pound of sugar, if carefully boiled down. The most common mode of boiling is to place the boilers in a small furnace; but this method requires more attention, to prevent the boilers from burning the sugar. There is in Lee county, probably more tree sugar made, than in any other county in the S. W. there being more fine sugar orchards. The precise quantity is not known, but supposed between 5 and GOOO pounds, with a quantity of molasses, which, if put up in vessels will keep and improve from age. Population of Lee in 1830, 4,256 — 1820, 6,461. It belongs to the fifteenth judicial circuit, and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $715 12 —in 1834 on lots, $18 92— on land, $352 14—327 slaves, $81 75— 2330 horses, $139 80—10 studs, $48 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—4 gigs, $3 00. Total $650 61. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $404 34— in 1833, $284 43. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. JONESVILLE, P. V. and Scat of Justice, 392 ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 468 W. S. W. of VV. in lat. 36° 40' and long. 6° 02' W. of W. C, situated N. of Powell's river, on one of its branches, 65 ms. N. E. of Knoxville, Tenn. and 60 S. E. by E smith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon ma- ker, and several house carpenters. Population 159 whites; of whom 1 is a resident attorney, and 1 a regular physician, — colored 37. Total 196. This village stands upon a beauti- ful eminence, between the Stone inotm- of Barboursville, Kty. The site ox\ taina.x\(\ Waldcn^s ridge, in Powell's which this village is located is veryi valley, through which flows Powell's uneven; resembling in this respect i river. The scenery which surrounds the general surface of the county. It it, though Avild is very pleasing, and was laid off in the year 1793. It especially so when the mountains on contains besides the ordinary county! both sides are covered with rich ver- buildings, which are handsome, 40;dure. The variety of hills presented dwelling houses, 1 house of public'by the mighty growth of forest trees worship, recently erected and free for' rising in succession one above the all denaminations, 1 common school, other on all sides, with here and 4 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 2 there an old grey rock jutting from tanners and curriers, 3 saddlers, 1 the foliage, or a bank of mo$s peeping boot and shoe factory, 3 tailors, 4 through, and nearly the whole earth 584 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS. beneath covered with luxuriant herbs and flowers, present a scene of rich luxuriant beauty, of which a lowland- er, in his level unbroken plains can- not entertain a conception. County Courts are held on the ord Monday in every month. Quarterly in March, June, August and Noccm- ber. Judge Estill holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chance- ry on the \st Monday in April and September. Rose Hill, P. V. 412 ms. from R. and 488 from W., situated 20 ms. W. of Jonesville, on the road leading from the Crab Orchard and Wilder- ness, in Kty. by the Cumberland Gap, in Tenn. through Powell's A^alley to Abingdon, 16 ms. E. of the Gap, and 95 W. of Abingdon. LEWIS* Lewis was established by act of Assem.bly in 1816, and formed from a por- tion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Harrison, — E. by Randolph, S. and S. W. by Kanawha,— S. by Nicholas and W. and N. W. by Wood. Itsmean lengthis 54ms.;mean breadth 32^-; andarea l,754sq. ms. extending in lat. from 38° 38' to 39° 12' N. and in long, from 3° to 4° 17' W. of W. C. The surface of this county is composed of three inclined plains, — the southern portion inclining westward in the direction of the Little Kanawha, which flows through the county diagonally, from its southeastern to its southwestern angles, — the northeastern portion inclines northward towards the West Fork of the Monongahela river, and Tj^gart's Valley river, and the northwestern portion inclines to the N. W. in the direction of Middle Island creek. The surface of the county is rocky, hilly, and in some parts mountainous. Population in 1820, 4,247 — in 1830, 6,241. It belongs to the 18th judicial circixit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $851 37 — in 1834 on lots, $26 59— on land, $431 85—87 slaves, $21 75—2,312 horses, $138 72—15 studs, $71 00. Total $689 91. Expended in edu- ating poor children in 1832, 404 34— in 1S33, $467 36. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. BuciiANNON, p. V. 266 ms. N. W.f of R. and 266 from W., situated on} Buchannon river, in the eastern part^ of the county, 15 ms. from Wesion,\ 25 ms. from Beverly, and 30 from! Clarksburg, county seats of Randolph and Harrison. Buchannon cannot be called a village, but rather a small j settlement, having about 330 scatter-! ing dwelling houses, extending along both sides of the river about 25 miles. There are in this settlement 4 houses of public wor.ship, (2 Methodist, 1 Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. No re- gular schools kept, except in the three winter months. There is 1 bible so- ciety, 2 tract and 3 temperance socie- ties. Within the limits mentioned are 2 mercantile stores, 7 country mills, 3 Avool carding machines, 1 taa- yard, 8 or 10 blacksmith shops, and about the same number of boot and shoe factorie-s, cabinet makers and house carpenters, with 2 wagon ma- kers and various other mechanics. The principal pursuit of the inhabi- tants is agriculture. This is a fine section of country, and the land tole- rably fertile, producing coin, wheat, rye, oats, flax, potatoes, &c. Buchan- non river runs nearly, a N. comse^ and empties into Tygart's Valley ri- WESTERN VIRGINIA— LEWIS, 385 ver. It lies between the Middle Fork a branch of Tygart's Valley river and the Monong-ahela. The state road passes directly through this settle- ment. Population 1,250. Bull Town, P. O. 296 ms. from R. and the same distance from W. situated on the Little Kanawha river, about 24 ms S. W. of Wesloii. — Though called a village it is simply a post office, and derives its name from the circumstance of a kw fami- lies of Indians having been once set- tled on this river (Little Kanawha) about one mile and a quarter below this place, whose head man or chief was called Capt. Bull; and hence the name of Bull Town was given to iheir little village of wigwams, and the spot on which they lived yet re- tains the name, although the Indians have abandoned it since about the years 1771-2 or 3. There is now no vestige left on the spot where once their little town stood. The first set- tlement made at the place by a white man, was in 1800 or 1801, then 15 or 20 ms. from any other inhabitants. It is now occupied as a farm by Mr. •John Conrod, his dwelling house be- ing several hundred yards from it. The site on which the village stood is a little eminence projecting from the spur of a ridge into a spacious rich bottom, a part of which was cultivated by the Indians. There is a salt work established here, on a limited scale, called the Bull Town Salt Works. These works manufacture from 15 to 20 bushels of salt per day. This neighborhood is but thinly settled, having only 1 country grist and saw mill at the falls, 2^ ms. above this place. These fails are about 1 1 or 12 feet, and form a valuable seat for iron works, there being an abundance of iron ore in the immediate vicinity, lying idle for want of capital and cn- terprize. In the vicinity are 2 tan- yards. The mail arrives at this P. (). once a week. Collins' 3ErrLL.ni;M-, P. O. 286 ms. from R. and the same distance from W., situated in the western part of the county, French Creek, P. O. 27G ms. W. of R. and 276 from W. This creek empties into Buchannan river. On the banks of this creek is situated French creek settlement, comprising about 8 ms. square, containing 66 scattering dwelling houses, occupied by an industrious and enterprizing people, who have emigrated from the New England States within the last 15 years. There are 1 house of pub- lic worship, (Presbyterian) 1 tanyard, a number ot wheelwrights, house car* penters, cabinet makers and joiners, and 1 temperance, 1 tract and 1 bible society. The principal pursuit of the inhabitants is agriculture. Thir^ settlement is divided into 5 school districts, where the common branches of English education are taught 6 months in the year. The state of education, being far superior to that which exists in the country adjacent. Population 400. Flat Woods P. O. 304 ms. from R. and 304 W. of W., situated in the western part of the county. Freeman's Creek, P. O. 250 ms. from R. and 245 W. of W. Hackersville, p. O. 260 ms. from R. and 246 W. of W. This is merely a post office, situated on Hack- er's creek, 7 ms. from Weston, 1 37 from Clarksburg, 50 from the Ohio river, and 35 from the Little Kanaw- ha Salt Works. The neighborhood is thickly settled. The lands are of the best quality with extensive tracts of arable land suitable for meadows, on whicj) large quantities of cattle are grazed and raised for market annual- ly. The surrounding country is hil- ly, and very productive, — abounding with the best of stone coal, and well timbered with walnut, poplar, sugar maple, beach and white oak. In the vicinity are 3 houses of public wor- •ship, 2 Methodist and 1 Bapli.st, 4 mi^ccUaneou.'s store?, I lanyard and 386 WESTERN VIRGINIA— LOGAN. various mechanics, and several mills Leadixg Creek, P, O. equi-dis- tant 267 ms. from R. and W., situated in the northern part of the county, 18 ms. from Weston. Leading creek is a small stream which empties into the Little Kanawha, 112 ms. below the P. O. On its waters and tributa- ries are 40 dwelling houses, 1 Metho- dist and 1 Baptist house of worship, 2 common schools and 1 tanyard. ms. enters into the Little Kanawha, about 15 ms. above its confluence with the Ohio. Hughes' river is navigable for more than 50 ms. from its mouth, and sufficiently large for floating vessels of considerable bur- then. Great quantities of lumber, be- sides a number of flat bottomed boats are carried down this stream to the Ohio. It abounds with excellent fish. McWhorter's Mills, P. O. 256 Population 240. The principal oc- ms. from R. and 242 from W. cupation of the inhabitants is agricul-j WESTON, P. V. and Seat of Ju.<- ture. On the waters of the Little Ka-^ice, 249 ms. from R. and from W.,situ- nawha, embraced within this neigh-jated on the West Fork of the Monon- borhood, and supplied from this post: gahela river, 70 ms. S. E. of Marietta, office, are 100 dwelling houses, 5 in Ohio. It contains besides the or- hauses of public worship, — 4 of which dinary county buildings, 30 dwelling are Methodist, 3 common schools, 3| houses, 1 common school, 4 mcrcan- mercantile stores and 1 tanyard. — tile stores, 4 manufactories, 1 manu- Population 500. jfacturing flour mill, 1 tanyard and 2 LoRENTz's Store, P. O. 2G1 ms. saddlers. Population 167 persons; of W. of W. and the same distance fromi whom 5 are resident attorneys and 2 Richmond LowMAN, P. O. 291 ms. from R. and 286 W. of W., situated on the N. W boundary of the county, on the main post road leading from Weston to Parkersburg, 42 ms. from the for- mer, and 37 from the latter place, on Hughes' river, a considerable branch of the Little Kanawha, which after a (can. meandering course of more than 1001 regular physicians. County Courts are held on the \st Tuesday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the 13/Aof April ?i-nA September, by Judge DtN- LOGAN. Logan was established by act of Assembly in the year 1824, and taken from a portion of Giles, Kanawha, Tazewell and Cabell. It is bounded N. by Kanawha, — N. E. by Fayette, — E. by the Great Flat Top mountain, which separates it from Giles and a part of Tazewell, — S. by Tazewell, W. by Tug Fork of Sandy river, which separates it from Floyd county, Ken- tucky, and N. W. by Cabell. Its mean length is 66 ms. ; mean breadth 44^ ; and hs area 2,930 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 13', to 37° 10' N., and in long, from 3° 50', to 5° 22' W. of W. C. This county is prin- cipally Avatered by Guyandotte and Little Coal rivers and their tributaries ; Guyandotie flowing tliagonally from S. E. to N. W. The principal branches of Little Coal that waters the N. W. border, arc Pond, Beach and Laurel Forks, having their rise in Hufl^s' mountain, — those watering the N. E. part of the county, are Clear Fork, Big Fork and Rockcastle creeks, having their rise in Cherry Pond mountain, which separates Logan from WESTERN VIRGINIA— MARSHALL. 387 Fayette: thej' empty into the Guyandottc. Elkhorn and Camp creeks have their rise in tlie Great Flat Top mountain, and after running a con- siderable distance through the county, empty into Tug Fork, which sepa- rates it from Tazewell on the S. W. There are several other creeks of minor importance. This county is generally mountainous and incapable of close settlement. The soil however, is rich, and the climate well adapt- ed to raising sheep; and it will some day be perhaps one of the finest wool growing counties in the United States. The principal exports are gin- sang, cattle and peltry in considerable quantities. It contained at the last census 3,681 persons, but since that period a portion has been taken off by the new county of Fayette. It belongs to the 9th judicial circuit and 10th district. Ta.x'paid in 1833, $184 95— in 1834, on lots, $8 84— on land, 888 83—63 slaves, $15 75—757 horses $45 52—3 .studs, $17 00—1 carryall, $1 00. Total $176 84. No report from school commissioners in 1832. Expended in 1833, $196 16. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Ballardsville, p. O. 349 ms. from R. and 390 S. W. by W. of W. situated on Little Coal river about 20 ms. above the forks. It contains 12 or 15 houses, 2 houses of public wor- ship, (I Methodist and I Baptist,) 2 schools, in which are taught all the usual branches of English education, 2 mercantile stores, 1 grist and saw mill; and 1 establishment for clarify- ing ginsang, which is one of the sta- ple commodities of the village and county. Many flat bottomed boats are built here, which carry salt from the works on the Great Kanawha, and various other mechanical operations are carried on. The soil of the sur- rounding country is fertile, producing corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, sweet and Irish potatoes in abundance. Population about 100 persons; of whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are re- gular physicians. Big Creek, P. O. 338 ms. S. W of R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., situated in theS. E. part of the coun- ty, 70 ms. S. S. E. of Charleston on the Great Kanawha river. LAWNSVILLE, or LOGAN C. H. P. V. 324 ms. W. of R. and 383 from W., situated in a fertile bot- tom in a bend of the river Guyandotte, surrounded by mountains abounding in stone coal and iron ore. This vil- lage was laid off by act of Assembly in 1827, since which time a handsome C. H., clerk's office, and jail have been erected of hewn stone, — also several dwelling houses, and others are now being erected. The other improvements are 2 houses of enter- tainment, 2 mercantile stores, 1 tan- yard, 1 smith shop, 1 tailor shop and I boot and shoe makers establish- ment. Besides these there are seve- ral house carpenters, and various oth- er mechanics. County Courts dixe\\e\di on the "ird Monday in every month : — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. - Judge Summers holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the ^th of May and October. Loop, P. O. 266 ms. from R. and 320 S. W. by W. of VV. MARSHALL, Marshall was created at the latter part of the session of the (ieneral Assembly ot 1834-5, whilst this work was in the pres.':. It is formed from 388 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MASON. the southern part of Ohio county; bounded N. by Ohio county, E. by Pennsylvania, S. by Tyler, and W. by the Ohio river. Its precise limits we have no means ol ascertaining. The general description, and its towii.s, villages, &c. will be given under the head of Ohio county. MASON. Mason was created by Act of Assembly in 1804, and formed from a portion of Kanawha county. It is bounded N. by Wood, — E. by Kanaw- ha, — S. by Cabell,— and W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from Gallia county, in the State of Ohio. Its mean length i.« 37^ ms. ; mean breadth 24:^;' and area 904 sq, ms. It extends in lat. from 38° 32', to 39° 05' N., and in long, from 4° 22', to 5° 12' W. of W. C. The Ohio river bounds this county for 60 ms., and the Great Kanawha floAvs through its southern part in a N. W. direction. The surface is much broken, but much of the soil ts of good quality. Salt water has been found near the Kanawha by sinking wells. Population in 1820, 4,868—1830, 6,534. It belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $814 64— in 1834, on lots, $47 66— land, $466 24—433 slaves, $108 25 — 1,917 horses, $11 02—10 studs, $55 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls, $5 00. Total $799 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $283 41— in 1833, $223 45. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Buffalo, P. O. 343 ms. from R. and 380 from W., situated in the S. E. part of the county, on the E. bank of the Kanawha river, about 21 ms. from its confluence with the Ohio, and 50 ms. S. E. of Point Pleasant. It contains several dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house of worship, 1 mer- cantile store and 1 Avarehouse. It is known as a public landing, and a place of some trade. There is a pa- tent ferry established on the river, on the pendulum and lee board system. Its situation is pleasant and healthy, and eligible on several accounts. The surrounding country is thickly set- tled, and the business of the neighbor- hood for the distance of 10 or 15 ms. is done at this place. Hereford's, P. O. 360 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 390 W. of W. Lane's, P. O. 366 ms. both from W. and R. POINT PLEASANT, P V. and Seat of Justice, 358 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 358 S. W. of W., situ- ated on the point above the junction of the Ohio and Great Kanawha ri- vers, in lat. 38° 50', and long. 5° 7' W. of W. C. It contains besides the ordinary county buildings, 40 dwel- ling houses, 1 common school, 6 mer- cantile stores, 1 extensive steam ma- nufacturing flour mill, 1 steam saw mill, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 black- smith shops, and 2 cabinet makers. Population 240 persons; of whom 2 are resident attorneys, and 2 regular physicians. County Courts are held on the \st Monday, in every month; — Quar- terly in March, June, August and November. Judge Summers holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery on the 16/// of April, and Septem- ber WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONONCMLIA. 389 MONONGALIA. Monongalia was established by act of Assembly in the year 1776, and formed from a portion of tlic District of West Augusta. It is bounded N. by Green and Fayette counties of Pa. — E. by Preston, — S. E. by Ran- dolph, — S. by Flarrison, — and W. by Tyler. Its mean length isSo^ miles, mean breadth 21^: and area 721 square miles. It extends m lat. from 39° 17' to 39° 42' N. and in long, from 2° 39' to 3° 25' W. of W. C. The face of the country is generally mountainous and hilly; one-third of the ter- ritory of the county, lying upon what is called in this country the "Laurel Hill," it being the last western regular ridge of the Alleghanies; the other two-thirds, or western part of the county, being intersected by hills and rallies. Notwithstanding the mountainou.';ness of the country, the soil is very fertile; producing good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables common to this latitude. And it is remarkably well tunbered, both as to variety and size. The rivers watering this county, arc the Monongahela, Cheat, West Fork and Tygart's Valley. The Monongahela is formed by the junction (a few miles below the dividing line between Monongalia and Harrison counties) of the West Fork and Tygart's Valley rivers. It thence flows in a northern direction, through the middle of the county; and passes out at the Pennsyl- vania line, about two miles above the mouth of Cheat river. It is naviga- ble from its head, in time of freshets, for flat-boats of the largest size. And steam-boats have frequently ascended from Pittsburg to Morgantown, ten miles above the mouth of Cheat. From Pittsburg to Morgantown, the navi- gation of this river is very easy for steam and flat-boats, and unobstructed, except by low water; and is becoming very considerable. From Morgan- town upwards the navigation is more difficult, and can only be effected in times of freshets. The West Fork, which flows but about three miles through this county, is a considerable stream, and is navigable for flat-boats in time of freshets, as high as Clarksburg in Harrison county. The Ty- gart's Valley although a considerable stream, is only navigable about ten miles ; it being obstructed by very high falls. It is part of the dividing line between this county and Harrison, and Randolph. Cheat river has its source near that of Tygart's Valley; and after flowing a northwestern di- rection, through Randolph, Preston and this county, empties into the Mo- nongahela, two miles below the Pennsylvania line. Although it is a con- siderable stream, affording nearly as much water as the Monongahela, it is only navigable as high as Jackson's Iron Works, a distance of eight or ten miles. The principal creeks in this county, are Decker's, Whiteday, Prickett's and Threefork creeks, which empty into tlie Monongahela on the east side, and Dunkard, Indian, Pawpaw and Buffaloe creeks, which empty in on the west side of said river. They all afford many excellent seats for water power, several of which are occupied. The principal exports of this county, are stock, (horses, cattle, hogs and sheep,) iron, lumber and some flour. There are three forges, and three furnaces (and another being erected) in this county; which manufacture very large quantities of iron annually. There is also one nail factory, and several good merchant flour mills. Jackson's Iron Works, on Cheat river, are considered the most valuable in Western Virginia, or perhaps in the 390 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONONGALIA. western country. There has lately been a sah-well sunk in this county, which promises well. On the road leading^ from Clarksburg and Beverly, 5 miles from Morgan- town, on the plantation of Henry Hamihon, there is a large flat rock about 150 feet long, and 50 wide, with numerous engravings of animals, well exe- cuted — Such as panthers of full size, — butfaloe tracks, — horse tracks, deer tracks, turkey tracks, eels, fish, women as large as life, human tracks, otters, beavers, snakes, crows, eagles, wild cats, foxes, wolves, racoons, opossums, bears, elks, &c. &c. This is probably one of the most extensive specimens o[ the arts of the aborigines, to be found in our country. The RaL'e7i^s Rock is also Avorthy of notice. — It is situated on Boothe'^s creek, about 3^ miles south of Morgantown, and half a mile from the en- trance of the creek into the Monongahela river. In this rock there are some strata of coal and of iron ; and except in these strata the whole rock is perforated like a pigeon box. This rock is 150 feet high, 40 feet thick at its base and 20 at its top. Population in 1820, 11,060 — in 1830, 14,056. It belongs to the 20th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, 81,402 33 — in 1834, on lots, $130 46 — on land, $775 54—184 slaves, $46 00—5417 horses, $325 02—36 studs, $102 00— 3 coaches, $6 00— 5 carryalls, $5 00— 3 gigs, $1 50. Total, $1392 52.— Expended in edu- cating poor children in 1832, $887 15— in 1833, $870 92. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Barns' Mills, P. O. 290 ms. from R. and 233 N. W. by W. of W. C, situated in the western part of the county. Blacksville, p. O. 241 ms. from R. and 243 N. W. of W., situated 20 miles N. W. of Morgantown, at the junction of Robert's Run and Diui- kard creek, 50 ms. from its mouth. This creek einpties into the Monon- gahela river. This village is locat- ed immediately on the line dividing the states of Virginia and Pennsyl- vania, a part of Blacksville being in the counties of Monongalia, Va. and a part in Green co. Pa. It contains 1 1 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 common school, 1 temper- ance society, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, and 2 blacksmith shops. Dunkard creek is navigable to this place, and boat building is carried on to some extent. The face of the surrounding country is uneven, but very fertile, producing wheat, rye, corn, oats and buckwheat in abundance. Timber is plenty, of good quality and in great variety. Population 52, including 1 physician. Dunkard Creek, P. O. 247 ms. N. W. by W. of W. and 245 from R., situated in tlie N. W. part of the county, 22 ms. N. W. by W. of Mor- gantown GrRANviLLE, P. V. 295 ms. from R. and 217 N. W. by W. of W., situated on Dimkard creek near the southern border of Green co. Pa., and on the W. side of the Monon- galia river, 2 ms. below Morgantown. it contains 21 dwelling houses, 1 house of public worship free for all denominations, 1 common school, 3 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 ware- houses, 1 saddler, 1 smith shop, 2 cabinet makers, 2 boot and shoe fac- tories, 1 cooper and 1 chair maker. Population, white males 44, females 56— colored 10— total 110— and 1 resident physician. King's Ferry, P. O. 217 ms. N. VV. by W. of W. and 289 from R. Mount Lineus, P. O. 240 ms. N. W. bv W. of W. and 203 from R. WESTERN ViULUNlA— MONONGALIA. 391 MiDDLETowN. ov Polslky's | MoRGANTOWN, P. V. and Mills, P. O. 294 ms. from R. andlfcat of justice, 293 ms. from R. and 235 N. W. by VV. of W. Middle- town was established by act of As- sembly January 19th, 1820. It is 215 N. W. by W. of W. in kit. 39° 40' N. and long, 2° 50' W. of W. C, situated on an elevated level, on now a flourishing and healthy village, I the right hank of the Monongahela, pleasantl^r situated on the west bank 35 miles below and N. N. E. of of the Monongahela, one and a half Clarksburg, and about 60 south of miles below the junction of Tygart's I^ittsburg, Pa. Morgantown is a Valley, and West Fork rivers, wherej flourishing and wealthy village, hold- thcy unite and form the Monongahela ing out incalculable advantages to the river, 22 ms. N. of Clarksburg, 18! manufacturer and mechanic. Its S. of Morgantown, 90 S. of Pitts- healthy situation on the bank of the burg, 50 S. of Brownsville, Pa., and Monongahela river, — the various 52 ms. E. of the mouth of Fishing productions of the country by which creek, and its confluence with the it is surrounded, — the inexhaustible Ohio river. It contains 30 dwelling coal mines which abound in almost houses, 2 houses of public worship, i every hill, and the rich and innumer- (1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) liable iron banks which are every- colonization society, 1 tract, 1 tem-j where to be found in this vicinity are perance, and 1 humane mission soci-j perhaps not to be surpassed in West- ety, and 1 common school, 4 mercan-'ern Virginia. Besides the ordinary tile stores, 1 distillery, 2 taverns, 1 J county buildings, it contains 120 pottery, 3 cabinet makers, 1 chair dwelling houses, 2 houses of public maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon; worship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presby- maker, I smith shop, 1 gunsmith, 2!terian,) and 1 female academy called boot and shoe factories, 1 saddle and! the "Monongalia Academy," corn- harness maker, 1 brick maker, 2 hat- prising 2 departments — Classical and ter's shops, 2 saw and 2 grist mills.! Preparatory. Its standing fund at In the immediate vicinity are 2 card- interest is $10,000,* and it averages ing and fulling mills, 4 saw mills, 40 pupils, — size of building 70 feet and 2 manufacturing flour mills, front, 40 feet deep, 2^ stories high, a The face of the country is somewhat' handsome and spacious brick build- hilly, in parts xety much broken.] The soil is generally of a rich loamy' *The Trustees of the Monongalia clav, producing all "the staples com- A^^'^^'^y ^^'^'''^ incorporated by the legis- _. • ^- .. ° -jji A iU (latiirc in 1806. In 18-27 or 8 the leirisla- mon m the middle and northern L^,^ p^^^,^! ^„ ,^,f ^^^j,l,^,.^,i,,^ ,^i,,-,^,,. states — well adapted to grazing and tees to raise S10,000 by lottery for the raising of cattle, horses, hogs, &c.,'f^enefit of this Acadcmv. This sura was large numbers of which are raisedi^"''*'^^'^,' ^"^ ^^H""' ''"^"l'^^^' "' 'V*'''l'*'u"'^''l^ r °^i . 1 , rill- ni buildins: a laic-e and commodious bnck for the eastern markets. 1 his sec-, building. The balance was put out at in- tion of country holds out innumera-i terest for the benefit of the academy. In ble advantages for the establishment! 1*^30 the Legislature passed another act, of manufactories. The forc.sts abound f'''^'^"- '''^. ''"t^^^'^s '" '''I'^^^^^'^^^^'re •.u ^i. a . x- i_ J .u .1 1 by lottery lor the same purpose. The with the finest timber, and the earth, -heme has been sold, and it i.s expected is stored with Iron ore, and the best' the whole ainounc of the above sum of stone coal. Large quantities of the|*"20,000 will be raised in a few years; latter are shipped from this place for ^y^ich added to the balance left of the .1 T-*-... I. J /-<• • • 1 . hrst lottery, will make an endowment the Pittsburg and Cmcinnati market,!, „fficient •„, ,(.,„,,,,. ,],^ Monongalia and frequently to Ne\v Orleans. Academy a free .school. It is now one of Population 200 persons: of whom 2| Oie cheapest and best conducted seniina- are physicians i'^'-''^ ^^ '^^ kind in the United States. 592 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. ing, pleasantly situated; — 1 private school (female,) in which are taught the languages, painting, drawing, &c., 2 temperance societies, (1 male and 1 female,) 1 Sunday school, 1 bible and 1 colonization society, 1 poor asj^lum, 7 mercantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 houses of entertainment, 2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 fullino- and dying establishment, 1 windmill manufactory, and 1 printing office from which is issued a weekly paper, 2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 4 boot and shoe factories, 3 wheelwrights, and chair makers, 5 cabinet makers, 1 copper and tin plate worker, 1 red and stone ware manufactory, 4 tailor shops, 3 hat manufactories, 2 gun smiths, 1 wagon maker, 3 smith shops, and 1 plough manufactory. The United States mail passes thro' this village 3 times a week. Popu- lation 650 persons; of whom four are resident attorneys, and three regular physicians. The Monongahela river is navigable for small steam boats, (and sometimes those oi a larger size) for six months in the year to this place; and if the contemplated im- provement goes into operation of cleansing the river, and establish- ing slack water navigation, by dams and locks, this town and county will at no distant day rank among the most flourishing and prosperous in Virginia. County Courts are held on the Ath Monday in every month; — Qjiarter- ly in March, June, August and No- I- ember. Judge Fry holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery on the 8^/i of April and September. Palatine Hill, P. O. 289 ms. from R. and 2 1 1 from W. Smitiifield, a small village 10 miles from Morgantown, on the road to Clarksburg. White Day, P. O. 283 ms. from R. and 205 S. W. by W. of W., situ- ated in the eastern part of the county, 10 ms. E. of Morffantown. MONROE, Monroe was created by act of Assembly in the year 1799, from a por- tion of Greenbrier. It is bounded N. by Greenbrier, — N. E. by Allegha- ny, — E. by Bottetonrt, — S. by Giles, and W. by New river, which on that side separates it from Giles. Its mean length is 31 ms. ; mean breadth 18^; and area 614 sq. ms., extending from 37° 22', to 37° 45' N. lat., and in long, from 3° 16', to 3° 54' W. of W. C. The general declivity of this county is Avestward from the summit of the Alleghany mountain. Green- brier river crosses the northwestern angle of the county, and unites with New river to form the Great Kanawha, at the point at which GJilcs, Lo- gan, Greenbrier and Monroe all meet. The mouth of Greenbrier river has been found by actual admeasurement, to be 1,333 ft. above the level of the ocean, and the county of Monroe being still higher and declining to this point, is probably from 1,400, to 1,700 or 1,800 ft. above the ocean. Population in 1820, 6,020, 1830, 7,798. It belongs to the 16th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,123 94 — in 1834, on lots, $56 85— land. $i50] 30—424 slaves, $106 00—3,640 horses, $218 40— 2! studs, $173 00—11 coaches, $29 50—15 carryalb, $15 00— 7 gigs, $3 60. Total $1,280 69. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $395 40— in 1833, $232 24. WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 393 TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, «Scc. Gwinn's xMill, P. O. 222 ms. fiom R. and 277 S. W. by W. of W. New Rivlr, p. O. 237 ms. from R. and 296 S. VV. by W. of W., situ These celebrated waters are situated in lat. 37° 30' 25" N., long. 3° 14' 50 " W. from Washington. They are 38 ms. from the White Sulphur, the ated in the western part of the county, sam.e distance from the Sweet Springs, 26 ms. westward of U/iio)i,the Cou/i- and 16 ms. from the Salt Sulphur. fy Seat, on the margin of New river, The valley in which they rise is 10 ms. above the mouth of Greenbrier formed by two mountains, running river, and 5 below Indian creek, on from N. E. to S. W. They receive the main post road leading from Giles' their name from a deposite of a rich C. H. to Ivanawha Salt Works. — Icriinson color. This deposite rests on Though called a village it is simplyjanother of white, and is itself of a a post office. The face of the sur-jgclatinous consistence. The water rounding country is mountainous, thelissucs from various fissures, in a stra- bottoms are narrow, but very fertile,;tum of soft slate stone, within a space producing in abundance, wheat, rye.Jof about 24 by 8 ft. Heretofore, they Indian corn, oats, hemp, flax and; were but partially collected, three- garden stuffs. The principal staples fourths having been permitted to are peltry, hemp and' Indian corn: forjwaste; but the present proprietor hav- the latter a ready market is found atjing, in the autumn of 1833, opened all seasons at ' the Red Sulphur the native stone, and obtained a vast Springs, distant 10 ms. Emigration [increase in the quantitj'-, has collected to this neighborhood within the lastjthem in two fountains of v%-hite mar- few years, has been considerable. ble. The temperature of the water Peterstown, p. O. 249 ms. fromiis preceisely 54 deg. of Fahr.; it is R. and 294 S. W. by W. of W. This peculiarly pleasant, though so strong- village was settled, some 40 years ly impregnated with sulphuretted hy- sincchy Christian Peters, homwhomldrogcB. Hundreds of persons now it derives its name, and established asjliving can bear testimony to its extra- a town by act of Assembly in Janua- ordinary efTects in the cure ofpulmo- ry 4th, 1804. It is situated on a nary disease: it is therefore supcrflu- stream called Rich creek, which takcs|ous to offer fruther evidence of its va- its rise in Peters' laountaiu, about 7jlue in checking that frightful enemy nis- above, and passing through the of mankind. We may refer the read- town, discharges its waters, 2 n\s. be- er to the work of Dr. Bell on baths low into New river, at the head of and mineral \A'ater?, and to a pam- the Great Kanawha, affording one of the most advantageous sites for water power in western Virginia. It con- tains 20 neat dwelling houses. 1 com- mon school, I saw mill, 1 grist mill, and a wool carding machine, 1 mer- cantile store, 3 tanj^ards, 1 saddler, ij bla<-ksmilh, 1 gun smith, 1 tailor and| * A short time before the illness of the i vva^ron maker. Surrounded by a '^'^ ^r. Wirt, the proprietor received ■ 1,^1 ■ T- J- 1 from bim a letter respecting these waters, wild and romantic country, abounding and the pamphlet above mentioned, which phlet lately puhVished on" Consi/mp- iionand the Red Sulphur waters," by Dr. Huntt, a distinguished physician of Washington City. Invalids are earnestly recommended to read this last little work.* It remains that we with every description of game; the pursuit ol which, constitutes the prin- cipal sport of the inhabitants. Heu Sulphur Si-king.s P. V. 240 ms. from R. and 282 from VV. 50 we here beg leave to subjoin. WashAngton., Feb. 8, 1834. Dkar Sir, — In an,swer to your letter of the '29th ult. I have inu( h plea:-nrc in staling, that I was highly gratified by my excursion to 394 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROJg. should notice its effects in other dis- eases, and here we must express our astonishment, that physicians have turned to so little account the know- ledge of its powers in pulmonary com- plaints, and in the reduction of arte- rial action. There can be little doubt that the remarkable influence it exerts in pulmonary complaints is mainly dependant on its sedative quality, and it seems to us strange how it has been overlooked by medical men, that so important a curative principle, could not have been limited to one disease. The wrher hazards the opinion that it will be found no less efficica- cious, in calming nervous irritability, than in reducing arterial action. He has experienced this effect in his own person, and has witnessed it in others. One of the most remarkable cases of Neuralgia we have ever witnessed was that of Henry Brown, esq. of Lynchburg. He had been afflicted many years in an extraordinary de- gree, had visited Europe, consulted the most eminent physicians, tried all the other mineral waters in this re- gion, but with little benefit. Last August he visitted these Springs, and was so much pleased \vith their ef- fects, that he remained until the 1st of January. He regretted not having visited the Red Sulphur some years sooner, and believed, if he had, that in all proba- bility, he would have been entirely restored to health. the Red Sulphur Springs last season. It was my first visit to that place, and I was so muchpleased with the water, the enter- tainment and the scenery, that my stay was protracted, with enjoyment, for nearly three weeks. I send you a pamphlet Just published in this city, on the virtues of^ these waters, by which you will see that they are rising in- to deserved celebrity. The author Doctor Huntt is a distinguished physician here whose opinions are entitled to the utmost respect and confidence, and I hope he will be instrumental in extending the knou-lcd.ge of these valuable waters. With every wish for your success, I re- mained dear sir, very respectfully and tru- ly, yours, WM. WIRT. That these waters are most singu- larly efficacious in vterine diseases, and in restoring the health of delicate females is a fact too well established, to admit of controversy, and one which we deem it peculiarly important should be known, as these are proba- bly the only mineral waters in Vir- ginia that are suited to such cases. The writer is of opinion, that the tonic property of these waters is con- sequent on their sedative property. — They do not belong to the ordinary class of tonics; they do indeed, invig- orate the stomach in a remarkable manner- — a fact which is clearly pro- ved by the rapid increase of Aveight, many persons gaining from one to two pounds a day for several successive days; but Avhilst they effect this, they are most usually producing one or two evacuations a day, and acting free- ly on the kidneys and skin. From what has been said, it may be per- ceived that we believe the water to be directly sedative, indirectly tonic, al- terative, diuretic and diaphoretic. It has been found efficacious in all forms of consumption, scrofula, jaun- dice and other bilious affections, chro- nic dysentery and diarrhea, dyspep- sia, diseases of the uterus, chronic rheumatism and gout, dropsy, gravel, neuralgia, tremor, syphilis, scurvy, crysipetas, tetter, ring- worm and itch; and it has long been celebrated as a vermifuge. That there are many other diseases, to which its medicinal properties are applicable, there can be little doubt, and we can state one fact highly important, which is, that we have never known it to do a positive injury. If the patient has gone away in a worse condition, it is because the disease had progressed so far as to be incurable, or the failure may be clear- ly traced to some imprudence on his ovv-n part. It is a lamentable fact that many of the persons who visit the Virginia Mineral Springs are alto- gether ignorant of their properties, and consequently are tempted to make experiments on themselves. Some WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 395^ think that tlip greatest good is to be derived from the greatest quantit}', and therefore use them immoderately- Others thinlc that, as charit^y liides a multiliide of sins; so the Avater justi- fies a muUitude of indulgencies. They entirely lose sight of the object of which they were in pursuit, after having made some progress towards its attainment; and if, after indulging their appetites, or being guilty of some other imprudence, they relapse to their former condition, they imme- diately blame the water. The writer has had some e.xperience in the use of the Red Sulphur water, and does not hesitate to say, that in his opinion, its efficacy is impeded hy all stimulants. Ardent spirits, strong coffee, strong tea, meat diet, especially at night, should be avoided. The patient should live on a strictly vegetable diet. Milk, maple molasses, cold bread, buckwheat cakes, rice, rye mush, bread-pudding, stewed peaches and various other articles of a similar character are best suited to the action of the Avater. These combined with its judicious use, moderate exercise, and a calm mind, atiord the best pros- pect of a cure. We are of opinion that most persons should begin with six or eight tumblers a day, and gra- dually increase to" twelve. We be- lieve this quantity to be sufficient, ex- ■ cept where it is necessary to act more immediately on the kidneys. In this case we would advise a light supper, and three tumblers of water after get- ting into bed. Walking exercise is of vast importance in making the wa- ter alterative. We would therefore strongly recommend early rising, and as much exorcise as can be taken without fatigue. There is frequently a fog in the morning, in these moun- tain regions, but nothing is to be ap- prehended from it. It is in fact, al- most invariably, the forerunner of -a fine day. It is highly important to invalids to lay aside the use of all me- dicines if possible, but more particu- larly the use of opium. The latter interferes very much with the action of the water. It may houseful at the commencent, to prepare the system by two or three blue pills, and when the water becomes altogether diuretic, it will be proper to turn it on the bow- els, which may be done by a little ep- som salts or some other simple me- dicine. When persons laboring un- der diarrhea use the water it some- times happens, that the evacuations become more frequent and acrid, for two or three days. Patients in this situation sometimes think that the water is doing them in- jury, when, in fact, it is expelling the exciting cause. To such persons we recommend perseverance and caution in diet. There is a singular efTect produced by this water which we have never known produced by any other mineral water. About the 10th daj% usually, but sometimes much earlier, the patient is taken with a sensation of fullness in the head; he feels indolent and sleep}'', and Ave, have even known the pulse to get be- low the natural standard. We have never seen this symptom productive of any injury; on the contrary expe- rience has proved that it is an uner- ring omen of amendment. Whenev- er we hear of this symptom we have strong hopes, that the patient is in a fair way of recovering his health, if he will do justice to himself by perse- verance and prudence. Visiters to these Avaters frequently expect mira- cles. They suppose that chronic dis- eases of several years standing should be eradicated in a fcAv days. We have, indeed, sometimes seen AA-onder- ful changes take place in a few days, but if a iiian laboring under an obsti- nate disease desire permanent benefit, he must give the Avater time to expel from his system every A'estige of the exciting cause, Improvements. The proprietor of this property cajne.in.to possession on the 1st. of 396 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. October, 1832. He has ever since been busily engaged in erecting buildings and making other improve- ments for the accommodation of visi- tors. In addition to the spacious ho- tel erected last year, he is now erect- ing a range of one story buildings 198 by 24 ft., and a two story build- ing with a double portico, 112 by 30 ft. All the old cabins will be fitted up in a more comfortable manner. Cold and warm baths will be provid- ed. Extensive stables and carriage houses are erected and every thing liberally provided which can promote the comfort of the guests. The ac- commodation will be ample for 250 persons. The establishment is con- ducted by Major Wm. Vass. A tri- the "White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet Springs, 16 from the Red Sulphur, and 60 from the Hot and Warm Springs. — It is generally acknowledg- ed, that this quarter of the country has its full share ©f medicinal waters, and in greater variety than any other country of the same extent. The cli- mate, too, during the warmer months, is the best in North America. The thermometer in the months of June, July and August, ranges in the day lime from 65° to 80°, and the nights are so refreshingly cool as to permit the delicate to sleep under one, two and three blankets. To judge from one's feelings, the barometer would stand very low in this favored country, and show an uncommonly light air, weekly line of stages is now running but they are scarce in this portion oi through this place to Newbern m Montgomery county, where it con- nects with the southwestern line. The roads in this neighborhood are greatly improved, and two companies are incorporated to make a turnpike road from the White Sulphur, to this place, by way of the Salt Sulphur. It is expected that the mail will ar- rive here daily, next season, in stages. Red Sulphur Skminary. — This In- stitution was opened on the 15th April last. The studies at present pursued are the Ancient Languages and Mathematics. The number of scholars is limited to thirty. When that number is engaged a teacher of Modern Languages will be employed The advantages possessed by this Institution will readily suggest them selves to the minds of those who have boys to educate. It has the undivid ed attention of Wm Burke as prin cipal, and James Macauly as assis- tant. Salt Sulphur Springs, P. O 216 ms. from R. and 270 from W, The mineral waters known by the name of tlie Salt Sulphur Springs rise in Western Virginia, in about 37i° N. lat. and 5° long. W. of Phi ladelphia — are distant 25 miles from the state, and there happens to be none at the Salt Sulphur Springs at this time. Here, under the blessings of providence, "the blind, the lame and the halt" may venture to hope for re- lief The fine, refreshing climate, the cheerful company, passing and repass- ing from spring to spring — and such a variety of medicinal waters, as the Avorld no where else affords — added to the novelty of mountain scenery, it seems to aftbrd sufficient inducement to entice both the young and old, — the robust, to seelc new pleasures, and the infirm man, bowed down by dis- ease, and weary of life, to alleviate his sufferings, and endeavor to repair his shattered constitution. The con- trast between winter and summer in this region, is, as may be supposed, very great. During the cold months, as the country is thinly inhabited, all appears desolate and dreary — the hills are covered with snow, and the streams Avith ice — as soon, though, as the sea- son well justifies it, the prospect be- comes more inviting. — About the lat- ter part of May, and the first of June, the poor victims of disease, from north and south, east and west, are seen in these places to try the healing powers of these natural medicines. Soon af- WESTERN VIRC4IN1A— MONROE. 397 ter, the throng is much increased l)y daily arrivals of gay and fashionable people, looking- lor amusement or a more genial summer climate than the one they reside in. This time of ani- mation continues until the middle of September, when the visitors mostly leave for their homes. — A few, how- ever, frequently remain much later — these, though, are real sufferers, who seem unwilling to leave as long as there is any thing to hope for. There are two fountains at the Salt Sulphur, each giving out a very difl'ei"ent wa- ter. — ^The first one u.sed is distinguish- ed as the Salt Sulphur, and is orna- mented with an appropriate building resting on twelve large pillars. — The other spring rises about GUU yards up the ravine, and was discovered about a year since in an attempt to convey some sulphur water in pipes to a bath house. — The laborer in blowing a rock to aftbrd a way for the pipes, opened the spring to his great alarm, as he thought he had struck on the source of the spring from which he was conducting the water. The tem- perature of the two springs is the same at all seasons of the year (50-^^ fah'r,) and both of them contain a portion of sulphuretted hydrogen. — The Salt Sulphur, too, has soda, it is believed, in an uncombined state — This perhaps is the mineral that acts so happily as a corrective of acid and the oily eruc- tation that attends a diseased stomach. The different waters give a copious precipitate by first adding to them salt of iron, and then precipitating it with carburet of potass — of course the precipitate has been considered a pre- cipitateof iron. — If any reliancecanbe placed on this indication, the newly discovered fountain will have the rare property of reducing a quick pulse as some few other waters are said to do. The more active ingredients in the Salt Sulphur might interfere with those invalids who would wish to reduce a quick circulation, but with the newly discovered spring, no ditliculty of the kind need be apprehended. — On an examination of the country around the waters, the limestone will be found frequently to contain magnesia — the formations, too, are all secondary. — From this circumstance, in all proba- bility, these waters contain magnesia and the newly discovered mineral call- ed sodine, so generally found in ma- rine productions. — The proprietors of these waters have themselves a high confidence in them and are becoming more and more solicitous for a correct analasis of them, which will secure to them their entire value and nothing more. This spring is celebrated among all the visiters to the springs for the ex- cellence of the accommodations, and the polite and obliging dispositions of the proprietors. These buildings are very extensive, and still increasing — in the season of 1835, they will pro- bably be able to accommodate SOU persons. Sweet Springs, P. O. 204 ms. VV. of R. and 263 S. W. by W. of W. This most ancient of any of the watering places in Va., is situated in the county of Monroe, in a fertile valley of the same name. They are distant 29 ms. from Fincastle, 22 from the Salt Sulphur, 37 from the Red, and 18 from the White Sulphur Springs. The spring, Avhich is so copious, as to turn a mill at the dis- tance of 200 yards from the source, rises at the lower end of a small hol- low or valley, from which the ground gradually swells on either side. The houses and cabins, of which a large number have been erected within a year or two, are sufficient to accom- date from 250 to 300 persons. By far the greater number of these ca- bins are built in rows adjoining each other, though some are delightfully situated among the groves of oak trees. There are two perennial rivu- lets from the mountains, meandering through the dale, which not only adds materially to tiie comfort of the visi- 398 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. ters and the cleanliness of the place,! between the two in other respects as but refreshes, enlivens and beautifies well in the abundant evolution of the surrounding prospect. Nature indeed has not been sparing in em- bellishing with her choicest beauties this enchanting spot. Every object that can gratify the eye or please the fancy is here pourtrayed in its bright- est colors. The wild scenery of the mountains with the gentle landscapes, the shady groves and arbors, care- lessly scattered over this delightful scene, invite the young, and the gay, and the admirers of nature to con- template her under these charming and picturesque aspects. The spirit of public improvement which has recently so diffused itself among the people of Western Vir- ginia, has greatly fecilitated the means of access and conveyance to the different watering places. There is a daily line of stages in the summer running from Fincastle to the Sweet Springs and also from the Salt and White Sulphur. The fine roads, de- lightful climate and beautiful scenery which is here met with, is a sufficient inducement aside from other consid- erations, to the low landers for an an- nual ramble to the mountains. The following description of the jnedicina' properties of the Sweet Spring waters is taken from Dr. Bell on Baths and Mineral waters. "The water of the spring rises into a large cylindrical reservoir, from opposite sides of which it flows out by small pipes: one conveying water to the bath for the men, the other to that for the ladies. The men's bath is of a quadrangular form surrounded by a wall, and open at the top, it is of tol- erable extent and clear, the bottom being of gravel and the water con- stantly flowing in and as constantly passing out, alter it reaches a certain height. The temperature of the Spring 73° fahr., the same as that which in England, by a strange blun- der, is called Bristol Hot Wells. There is a considerable resemblance arbonic acid gas as in the earthy and saline matters held in solution. In the Virginia Spring however iron has been detected, Avhereas the Bristol Hot Wells has none in its composi- tion. If we can rely on the rather crude analysis of Bouelle, one quart of the water of the Sweet Spring con- tains — Saline substances in general, 12 to 15 grains. Earthy substances, 18 to 24 " Iron ^ to 1 " The saline substances are sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and muriate of line with a little sulphate of lime. The earthy substances con- sisted of sulphate of lime, a small portion of carbonates of magnesia and lime, with a small portion of sili- cious earth. The deposition of cal- carious matter from the waters as they flow down the meadows is so great as to form a kind of drain of consi- derable height and thickness at about a mile on the road to the White Sul- phur Springs. Few mineral waters have acquired such fashionable and well merited celebrity as the Sweet Springs. The name is calculated to convey errone- ous impressions of their taste, which is like a solution of a small quantity of a calcareous or magnesian carbo- nate. The excess of carbonic acid o-ives, however, the waters a brisk- ness, productive of a very different effect on the palate from what an im- perfect mixture of the earth's would produce. The first effects of this water due to its temperature and gase- ous contents, when drunk, are a feel- ing of warmth at the stomach, with a sensation of fulness at the head and some giddiness. Taken at stated in- tervals in moderate quantity, it will produce a moisture on the skin and increase the flow of urine. If the stomach be in a good state it gives additional appetite and imparts fresh WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONROE. 399 vig;or to the system. The Sweet Spring water is serviceable in the va- rieties of dyspepsia accompanied by gastrodynia or spasm, with pains oc- curring at irregular intervals and heart burn — when the extremities arc cold and the skin torpid. In secon- dary debility of the digestive canal, from the exhausting heat of summer, or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery without fever or not sustained by he- patic inflammation, much good will be produced by the internal use of these waters. If much gastric irritation or cvi dent phlogosis of the liver be present with a parched skin and other phe nomena of fever: it will be better to premise one or two small bleedings, followed by the use of a blue pill at night, and a tumbler full or two of the water, to which has been added a tea- spoon full of epsom salts, or twice the quantity of calcined magnesia early in the morning. The harassing cough to which young persons are occasionally sub- ject and which often has its origin in an enfeebled slate of the stomach, or in scrofulous habits from enlargement of the bronchial glands, as also the tussis ho7iioralis of old people, will all be materially benefitted by the use of these waters. The relief afforded in such cases as these has usually given Bristol Hot Wells its reputation in the cure of pulmonary consump- tion. Females of what are termed a nervous habit of body, who have been enfeebled by protracted confinement, or long nursing their children, de- privation of exercise, and of the en- joyment of fresh air, and Avho have in addition to these causes of dys pear after the restoration of the diges- tive system to its former energy. As we should have inferred from the excess of carbonic acid and the presence of the earthy carbonates in the water, it is useful in calculous and nephritic complaints. In acute rheumatism the waters with the addition of neutral salts and the use of the bath will be of service. But in chronic rheumatism, in which there have been for a long time stiff- ness of the joints and cold skin, our chief reliance must be placed on the baths of- the Warm and Hot Springs, by or attenuated with the use of the sulphur spring water. The usual times for drinking the waters of the Sweet Springs are ear- ly in the morning, between 12 and 1 o'clock or some little time before din- ner, and in the evening at tea time. This later period is an improper one except the invalid suffer at the time from spasm of the stomach, or expe- rience a morbid and gnawing sensa- tion of hunger. The use of the bath at the Sweet Springs is adapted to a large number of cases, viz., in which there is a morbid or irregular heat of the sur- face with some febrile action. The first sensation or immersion in the water is a slight shock, after which the feeling of coolness is refreshing and rather agreeable. We have less hesitation in bathing in water of tepid temperature, as this almost is, than in a cold bath. For common hygie- nii purposes it is quite safe and reviv- ing; and in disease may be used with considerable freedom, but not to the neglect of those precautions given when I spoke of the cold bath. A more efficacious mode of applying pepsia, made excessive use of tea and this water to the skin would be by coffee, spices and condiments, Avill douche — the stream being directed find their strength and heaUh restored on the region in which the irritation by drinking these Avaters as well as was fixed, and Avhenever there was bathing in the manner to be soon augmented heat and fixed pain as mentioned. Irregularity in the ute-jover the stomach, or liver, or abdo- rine functions will often soon disap- men generally above the pubis or on 400 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MONTGOMERY. the loins and sacrum, also to the joints Avhen the violence of inflam- mation has not yet subsided nor pass- ed entirely into the chronic state. If the irritation of the stomach forbids the drinking- of the water, douching of the epigastrium would form a good preparative for its use in this way. Lumbago with some evening fever chloroies or floar albus, with heat and pain at the loins, would all be benefitted by douching this part. The freedom and advantage with which the bath at the Sweet Springs has been used by aged persons, is evi- dence of its general safety. The chief points to be attended to are, that the skin shall not be moist or cold with perspiration, nor that there shall be general chill nor the languor that follows excessive muscular ac- tion: the stomach also should be nearly empty, or at least not actively engaged in its work of digestion. The duration of a bath is usually too long; from five to fifteen minutes will embrace periods adapted to all conditions. Even the more robust ought not to stay in longer than the last mentioned time. UNION, P. V. and scat of justice, 267 rns. S. W. by W. of W. C, and 208 W. of R., in lat. 37° 34' N. and long. 3^ 32' W. of W. C.,— situated northeastward from Peters' movmtain in Greenbrier Valley, about 40 ms. a little W. of N. from Christiansburg. The town of Union is a beautiful lit- tle village, in a pleasant and healthy situation. The country around for many miles is a rich and fertile soil, particularly adapted to grass. A vast number of cattle, horses, hogs, &,c. are annually fattened in this neigh- borhood. It contains besides the usu- al county buildings, Avhich are hand- some, 45 dwelling hou.ses, 2 houses of public worship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 common school, 2 hou.ses of public entertainment, 3 mercantile stoi'es, 2 tan yards, and 3 saddlers. The other mechanics are, tailors, boot and shoe makers, black- smiths, wagon makers, brick layers, &/C. &c. This court house is situa- ted 15 ms. west of the top of the Al- leghany mountain. Population 400 persons ; of whom 1 is a resident at- torney, and 2 are regular physicians. County Courts are held on the 2d Monday in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Brown holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the \itii of May and October. M0NTG03IERY. MoriTGOiMEUY was created by the Legislature in the year 1777, and formed from Finca.stle county. It is bounded N. and N. W. by Giles, — W. and S. W. by Wythe, — S. by the new county of Floyd,— and W. by Franklin. As we are unacquainted with the precise dmncnsions of Floyd, we shall be compelled to give the dimensions of Montgomery as it stood before the separation. Its mean length was 34 miles, mean breadth 32 ; and area 1089 sq. ms. Extending in lat. from 30° 43' to 37° 24' N. and in long. 3° 04' to 3° 50' W. of W. C The northern portion of this coun- ty gives rise to the Roanoke and to Craig's creek, Avhich flow in a N. W. direction into Botetourt. The county occupies a portion of the high pla- teau or table land between the waters which flow into the Atlantic, and those which flow towards the Mississippi. The mouth of Sinking creek, which enters the Great Kanawha, in Giles, county, at the western foot of Walker's mountain, of cour.':;c below any part of Montgomery, is found, WESTERN VlHGl.MA— MONTGOMERY. 401 from actual ineasurement, elevated 1,585 feet above tide water in James river. The hig-liest spring- tributary to Sinking creek was found to be 2509; we may, therefore, very safely assume as the general elevation of Mont- gomery from 1,800 to 2,500; or a mean exceeding 2,100 feet, or an equi- valent to more than five degrees of latitude. If then we assume 37° as the mean lat. of Montgomery county, the real winter climate will be simi- lar to that on the Atlantic coast in N. lat. 42°. Besides the mountains, the whole fice of this county i.s broken and rocky, yet though so rough and elevated, the streams are bordered wath excellent soil. Population of Montgomery as it stood in 1820, 8,733,-1830, 12,306. It belongs to the 6th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1280 27— m 1834 on lot.s, ^92 19— land, $593 77— 975 slaves, $243 75 —3233 horses, $196 98—16 studs, $112 00^10 coaches, $28 25—19 carryalls, $19 00— 7 gigs, $3 75. Total, $1,289 69. Expended in edu- cating poor children in 1332, $207 44— in 1833, $194 28.' TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES. &c- Blacx-sburg. p. O. 215 ms. W. of R. and 290 S. VV. by W. of W., situ- ated in the northern part of the coun- ty, 9 ms. northwardly from Chris- tiansburg. It contains 34 dwelling houses, 2 houses of public worship, (1 Mfthodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 1 common school, 1 sabbath school, and 1 temperance society, 3 tan yards, 2 saddlers, and various other mechan- ics. Population 150 persons; ofi whom I is a physician. i CHRLSTIANSBURG. P. V. and cov.nty ycat, 206 ms. S. W. of R. and 282 S. W. of W. in lat. 37° 08' N, and long. 3° 24' W. of W. It contains besides the usual county buildings, 45 dwelling houses, 2 houses of public worship, (1 Metho- dist and 1 Presbyterian,) 2 common schools, 5 miscellaneous stores, 3 be- nevolent societies, 2 lanyards, and 2 saddlers. The principal mechanics are 3 boot and shoe factories. 4 tai-, lors, 4 hatters, 1 cabinet maker, 4 tin' plate workers. Population, whites 230 persons; of whom 5 are resident attorneys, and 3 regular physician? — colored 105 — total 335. Comity Courts are held on the \st Mnnday in every month: — Quarter- ly in March, Junx, August and No- V ember. Judge Brown hold;? his Circuii 51 Superior Court of Law^ and Chance- ry on the 22d of May and October. " FoTiJERiNOAV, P. O. 195 ms, from R. and 270 S. W. by W- of W. GooDsoN, p. O. 221 ms. W. of R. and 299 S W. of ¥/. La Fayette, P. O. 190 ms. S. W. of R. and 256 from W.. situated in the N. E. pari of the county, near the foot of the Alleghany mountain on the head w^aters of the Roanoke, and at the junction of the North and South Forks, — 33 ms. from Fincaslle, and 7 fi^pm theline.dividing the coun- ties of Montgomery and Botetourt. This village v/as established 8 or 10 j'-ears since, and is now lapidly pro- gressing, most of its improvements having been made within the last 2 years. It contains 43 dwelling bouses, 1 house of public worship, (Metho- dist,) 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern. 1 extensive manufacturing flour mill. 1 lanyard, 1 cooper's shop, 1 boot and shoe factory, 4 smith shops, and vari- ous other mechanics. The soil of its vicinity is productive of Indian corn, wheat and tobacco. Population 1 103 persons; of whom 1 is a regular physician. i jNewberx, p. V. 225 ms. from R. and 301 S. W. by W. of W., situated in the western part of the county, 16 )ns. S. W. of Christian.^burir. and 7 402 WESTERN VIRGINIA— MORGAN. W. of English's Ferry, on the main western stage road from Bakimore to Nashville, Tenn. Its location is high and airy, giving a fine view of the adjacent valleys and neighboring mountains, which present an interest- ing and romantic scene, and fill the traveller's mind with admiration. It contains 100 houses, 1 house of pub- lic worship, (Methodist,) and 1 (Pres- byterian) in the immediate vicinity, (used as a school house,) 5 mercan- tile stores, 2 taverns, 2 saddlers, 1 tan yard, 2 boot and shoe makers, 2 wa- gon makers, 2 tailors, 2 blacksmith shops, 1 silversmith and jeweller, and 1 milliner and mantua maker. Popu- lation 190 persons; of whom 2 are physicians. The face of the country to the N. and N. W. is generally level to the valley of Back creek, a distance of 7 or 8 ms. in width, and between 1-5 and 20 in length, produc- tive of every kind of grain, but natu- rally adapted to grass. The S. and S. E- is diversified and uneven, tho' the soil is of good quality and pro- duces well. The staple commodities are beef, pork, grain, hemp, flax, and butter. On the north bank of New river, 14 ms. from Newbern, there is a bluff called the Glass Windows, (a great natural curiosity,) presenting to the spectator as magnificent a scene as the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge county. It is a perpendicular rock 500 feet in height, running parallel with the river about 3^ of a mile, in which there are a number of coves, that produce saltpetre in abundance. Another natural curiosity is Peak Knob, about 3 ms. W. of Newbern. It somewhat resembles the Peaks of Otter, and rises between 800 and iOOO feet above the bed of Peak creek, and presents the inhabitants with a de- lightful landscape to a very consider- able distance. Around the foot o^ Peak Knob and on the banks of Peak creek, are a number of mineral springs, the medicinal qualities of which are said to be considerable MORGAN. Morgan was created by act of Assembly in 1820, from a portion oi Hampshire and Berkley counties. It is bounded N. by the Potomac, which separates it from Washington county of Maryland, — E. by Berk- ley, — S. by Frederick and Hampshire, — and W. by the Potomac, separat- ing it from Alleghany county of Maryland. Its mean length is 22 miles, mean breadth 16; and area 352 sq. ms. It e.xtends in lat. from 39° 22' to 39° 40' N. and in long, from 0° 58' to 1° 25' W. of W. C. The general slope of this county is N. N. E. in the direction of its two principal streams, the Great Cacapon and Sleepy creek. The surface is much broken and rocky, but there is much good soil upon the streams. Population in 1820, 2,500—1830, 2,094. It belongs to the 13th judi- cial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $561 20— in 1834 on lots, $46 61— land, $393 72—91 slaves, $22 75—846 horses, $50 76 —2 studs, $20 00—1 coach, $3 00. Total $536 84. Expended in edu- cating poor children m 1832, $162 75--in 1833, $165 83. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. BATH, or Berkley Springs, P.! W., situated 8 ms. S. S. W. of Han- O. and seat of justice, 186 ms. N. N.'cocktown, Md., and 45 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 93 N. W. by W. of; W. of Harper's Ferry. Mr. JefTer- WESTERN VIRGINIA— NICFIOLAS 403 son in Notes on Virginia, thus speaks of this watering place. "On Potomac river in Berkley co., above the North mountain are medicinal springs. In former ye^rs they were much more frequented than those of Augusta or any other. Their powers however are less, the waters weakly mineral- ised and scarcely warm. They were more visited, because situated in a fertile, plentiful, and populous coun- try, better provided with accommo- dation , were always so far from the Indians, and nearest to the populous states." — The waters of Bath are now held in high repute, whatever opin- ion might have been entertained of them in the time at which Mr. Jeffer- son wrote his Notes on Virginia; and hundreds flock to them every season from Maryland and Pennsyl- vania. County Courts are held on the \th Mo7ulay in every month; — Quarter- ly in March, June, September and November. Judge Pakrer holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 25th of April, and Aug-ust. Oakland, P. O. 17-5 ms. from R. and 96 N. W. by W. of W, NICHOLAS. Nicholas was created by act of Assembly in the year 1818, from a por- tion of the counties of Kanawha, Greenbrier, and Randolph. It is bound- ed N. by Lewis,— N E. by Randolph, — E. by Pocahontas,— S. E. and S. by Greenbrier, — S. W. by Fayette, — and W. by Kanawha. Its mean length is 44 miles, m3an breadth 32i; and area 1,43 1 sq. ms. It extends in lat. Irom 38° 04' to 38° 43', and 'in long, from 3° 18' to 4° 12' W. of VV. C. Its greatest declination is to the souhwest, in the direction of its two principal streams, Gauley river and Elk river. The former flowing through the southern portion of the county, the latter through the northern. Gauley is a rough stream, admitting of but little navigation. Elk on the contrary is a beautiful flowing stream, navigable almost to its source, and susceptible of being made at a small expense, the channel of valuable trade. It is well stocked with fine fresh water fish, some of which are of enor- mous size. The soil and climate of this county present great variety; be- ing in some parts very warm and very fertile, in others cold and barren. Population in 1820, 1,853— in 1830, 3,349. It belongs to the 18th judi- cial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $263 01— in 1834, on lots, Sn 98— land, $199 19— .53 slaves, $13 2.5— 899 horses, $53 94—4 studs, $25 00. Total, $303 36. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $179 80— in 1833, $65 83. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Birch River, P. O. 284 ms. from R. and 327 S. W. of W , situated in the northern part of the county, 17 ms. N. W. of the countv seat ms. N. W. by. W. of R. and 310 W. of W., in lat. 38° 18' N. and long. 3° 48' W. of VV. C. This village is situated on a flat at the head of Pe- MoiTNTAiN Cove, P' O. 273 ms. iter's creek, and Arbuckles' branch, from R. and 315 W. of W. The water rises from a flat near the NICHOLAS C.H. or SUMMER-itown and flows east and wer.t. consti- VILLE, P. O. and county scat, 286'tuting westwardly the head of Peter's 404 WESTERN VIRGINIA— OHIO. creek, and eastwardly the water Hows into Arbuckle's branch, both of which streams empty into Gauley river, many miles apart. The village con- tains a frame court house, a clerk's of- fice, and jail of hewn si one, of supe- rior elegance and durabiliiy, 20 dwel- ling houses, 2 miscellaneous stores, 2 taverns, 1 tan yard, 2 smith shops, 1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 2 tailors, and 1 boot and shoe maker. Population 100 persons; of whom 2 are resident attorneys. There is no physician here, and there. are only 2 in the county. County Courts are held on the 2d Tuesday in every month ; — Quarter- ly in March, June, August and No- vember. Judge Duncan holds his Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery on the 6//^ of April and September. SuTTONsviLLE, P. O. 300 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 312 S. W. by W. of W., situated in the southern part of the county, on the south side of Big Elk river, distant 100 rns. from the head of Elk, and from its junc- tion with the GJreat Kanawha river. Elk is navigable to the Union Mills, 10 ms. above Suttonsville, which may be considered the head of good navi- tion. The situation of this villag-g is eligible, being situated at the inter- section of the main northern and southern mail routes, passing through the vallies of Kanawha and Ohio. It contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 mis- cellaneous stores, 1 house of enter- tainment, and 1 tanyard. Population 45. The princi[)al pursuits of the inhabitants are building flat bottomed boats which are run down to the Ka- nawha salines, and freighted off with salt to the various markets in the western country. There are a con- siderable number of valuable grist and saw mills on this river, which prepare large quantities of plank, lumber, &.C., for boat building, and for the Charleston market on the Great Kanawha. There are also great quantities of boat gunwales, barrel-staves, and hoop-poles, carried from this place to the Kanawha sa- lines. There are at this time about 15 saw mills built and building on Big Elk and its tributary waters, a part of which are expected to go into operation this season, and many oth- ers are in operation on that part of Big Elk river which runs through Kanawha countjr. It will give some idea of the business done at this place and its immediate vicinity, and of its fast increasing trade, to state that in the spring of 1833, there were sent off a.t one time in boats, lumber, &c., to the amount of from 10 to 12,000 dollars. This was the product of about six months labor, including the winter season. This section of coun- try is but thinl}'- and newly settled, with the exception of a few hunters, who are not generally very enterpris- ing people. Its remote situation has kept its natural advantages and facili- ties out of view until lately. It is now improving, and promises fair to become a flitm-i.-^hinp- nnd prosperous village OHIO. Ohio county was created by act of Assembly in the year l/Tfi, from a portion of the District of West Augusta. It is' bounded" N. by Brooke,— N. E. by Washington (ounty. Pa.— S. E. by Greene county. Pa.— S. by Tyler county, Va.— S. W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from Mon- roe county, Ohio,— and N. W. by Belmont county, Ohio. It will be per- ceived that these limits include the new county of'MARSHALL, created from WESTERN V'llUilXlA— ( )lil( K 405 the Soutliorn portion of Ohio, at the session of the Legislature of 1834-5. Indeed as the law has not yet been promulgated which established this new county it will be impossible to separate them, and we shall speak of Ohio county as it stood in December, 1834. Its mean length is 28.^ miles, mean breadth 13; and area 375 square miles. It extends in lat. from 39° 42' to 40° 14' N. and in long, from 3° 3G' to 3° 55' W. of W. C. I'he declivity is N. W. towards the Ohio river. Several creeks which rise in Pa. flow N. W. to the Ohio through this county: — they are — Fishing, — Fish, Grave, — Wheeling, and Short. — The surface is very much broken, but the soil very fertile, especially on the watercourses. Population iu 1820, 9,182 — in 1830, 15,590. It belongs to the 20th ju- dicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, ^2630 17 — in 1834, on lots, $1385 4G— land, $820 33—183 slaves, $45 75—4291 horses] $257 46—23 studs, $190 00—40 coaches, $97 2-5- 13 carryalls, $14 50 — 12 gigs, $3 50 — Total $2819 25. Expended in educatinasture mountain — third, Bullpasture mountain — fourth, Jack- son's mountain, and fifth, Fore mountain, to the main Alleghany ridge. The valley between the Shenandoah and Cowpasture mountains is watered by a stream called Shaw's fork, a branch of the Cowpasture river, and is of a thin soil, and badly cultivated. Near the head of the fork, are two beauti- ful mineral springs, about two miles apart, which would rank among the first watering places in Western Virginia, provided the necessary accom- modations could be furnished to visiters. The valley between the Cowpas- ture and Bullpasture mountains, is watered by the Cowpasture river, and is rather superior in point of soil and cultivation to the former. The valley between the Bullpasture and Jackson's mountains, is watered by the Bull- pasture river, a rapid and beautiful stream, which furnishes a number of commodious sites for machinery. I'he soil in this valley is good, well adapted to the growth of grass, and the production of grain, is well im- proved, and in a tolerable state of cultivation. The valley between Jackson and the Fore mountains, is watered by Jackson's river, and will bear nearly the same description of the former. There is in the S. W. part of the county on the head of Jackson's river, asnuill village by the name of Woodsboro'. It contains seven houses, a lanyard, and various mechanics, but it is on the decline. The Crab run is a beautiful stream of pure water; it has its rise at the 41G WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. eastern base of Jackson's mountain, and flows in a S. E. direction about ten miles, through the southern end of the county, and empties into the Bull- pasture river, about one mile below the post office of the same name. The wedge of land pointing above its junction with the Bullpasture, aflbrds one of the most beautiful sites for a town that is any where to be iound in this section of country, several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, a saw mill, a blacksmith shop, 1 house of public worship, and 1 common school, have been erected on this spot of ground, which is known by the name of Sugar Tree Grove. There are within the limits of this description, and south of the main Alleghany ridge, 3 houses of public worship, (Methodist,) 2 tan yards, 2 mercantile stores, and a sufficient number of common schools, for the edu- cation of youth, with various mechanics. From the main Alleghany ridge northwestward, this part of the county is divided into five valleys, by as many different parallel ridges of mountains. The first valley is watered by the south fork of the south branch of Potomac, and is situated between the Shenandoah and Thorn mountains. — The south fork has its rise in the S. W. part of the county, within a few hundred yards of the head spring of the Cowpasture river, which flows the other way. From the head of the south fork for about 18 miles down the stream, the land is of a sandy soil, and is arid, thin and unproductive, and every thing wears the aspect of po- verty. Proceeding a little lower down, the bottom begins to widtm, the soil becomes more fertile, the farms are more enlarged and in a better state of cultivation and repair. " The manners and dress of the people discover more polish, — the hair of their flocks and herds has changed its weather-worn deadness, for a slick and glossy coat, and every thing assumes the appear- ance of thriftiness and better living." The S. fork has but one tributary stream of any note, which it receives about ten miles from its source, and which is known by the name of Bushby's fork. There is one store on the head of the south fork. There are two others below this, — one about 20, the other about 30 miles, — the first is 15, the second 9, and the third 12 miles from Franklin county; seat. There are also four houses of public worship on this water, (3 I^utheran and I Union.) The first is 19, the se- cond 15, the third 10, and the fourth 13 miles from the county seat. The S. fork flows N. E. and after passing into Hardy county, empties into the S. branch of the Potomac, about 4 miles below the county line. The S. branch of the Potomac is formed by the junction of Streight and Grab creeks, which have their rise in the N. W. part of the county, and flow a N. E. course through the county, watering the valley which lays between the Thorn and N. ibrk mountains. The soil in this valley is rich, and well adapted to grass and grain. In this valley are 4 houses of public worship, ( I on the head of Streight creek, and 1 on Crab creek,) the former 20, the latter 22 miles above Franklin, both of which belong to the Methodist; and I 12 miles below, and another 13, one of which is Lutheran and the other Methodist. The S, branch is a pure and beautiful stream of water, and receives within this county the following streams : 3 miles above Franklin, the Black Thorn ■ — 1 miles below, Reed's creek — arid 3 miles below this is Mill c reek. Three miles above Franklin, there is a rich saltpetre cave, from which a vast quan- tity of nitre has been made, but the works are now idle. The entrance of the cave is a small aperture near the base of a small mountain, and it ex- tends under ground for some miles. WESTERN VIRGINIA— PENDLETON. 417 The next portion in order, is the north fork valley, which is watered by the N. fork of the S. branch. It has its rise in the S. W. part of the county, and flows a N. E. course, and after passing into Hardy county empties into the S. branch a little below the county line, receiving in its course but one stream of any note, which is known by the name of Seneca. The land in this valley is good, and produces well both grass and grain. There are on the N. fork 2 houses of public worship, (both Methodist,) and i store. Be- tween this and the main Alleghany mountain, there are two ether ridges. the local names of which are Timber Ridge and Spruce mountain. The lands on these, as well as the other ridgos of mountains in the county, are of tolerable soil, and but thinly settled; but they afford an excellent "range for stock during the .summer sesson, and give birth to a number of springs of the best water. There are 2 other tan yards in this county besides those already named. No merchant mills, but the v.alleys are well furnished with common grist mills, cardi)5g machines, — blacksmiths, and other me- chanics. Population in 1820, 4,836— in 1830, 6,271. It belongs to the 14th jvidicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1S33, §!,032 46 — in 1834 on lots, $28 30— land, ^''-oO 38—280 slave.s, $70 00—3-530 horse.s. $211 80—24 stud.s, $104 50— 2 coaches, $4 00— 16 carryalls, $16 00— Total, $1090 98. E-xpended in educating poor children in 1832, $515 43 —in 1833, $520 93. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, 6cc. Crab Run, P. V. 154 ms. N. W., by VV. of R. and 196 S. W. by VV : of W., situated in the S. W. part of the county. A house of public en-j tertainment, a grist and a saw mill, a blacksmith's and a wheelwright's- shop are located here. FRANKLIN, P. V. and seat -of justice, 171 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and the same distance S. W. by W. of W., in lat. 38° 42' and long. 2° 26' W. of W. C, situated on the north! bank of the South Branch of the Po-i tomac, 20 miles from its source. Itj contains btsides the ordinary county buildings, 30 dwelling houses, 1 com- mon school, 1 temperance and 1 bible society, 2 mercantile stores, 2 tan! yards, 3 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 house) carpenters, 1 caianet and chair maker. 1 printing office, 1 tailor, 2 black- smiths, 1 gunsmith, and 2 boot and [shoe makers. Population 250 per- sons; of whom 2 are resident attor- neys, and 1 a regular physicisn. County Courts are held on the Wednesday succeeding ihe 1st Tues- day in every month; — Qvarterly in March, June, Septeviber and Novem- ber. Judge Smith holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 2(£ of May and Zd of Oc- tober. Hull's Store, P. O 164 miles from R. and 206 VV. of W. Oak Flat, P. U. 176 ms. from R. and 186 from W. POCAHONTAS, Pocahontas was established by act of the General Asbenibly in the year 1821, and formed from a portion of the counties of Bath, Pendleton and Randolph. It is bounded N by Randolph,— !" br ti.f Alleghany 418 WESTERN VIRGINIA— POCAHONTAS. mountains which separate it from Pendleton and Bath, — S. by Greenbrier, — and W. by Nicholas. Its mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 17^ ; and its area 794 square miles: its mean lat. is 38° 20' N. and long. 3° W. of W. C. This county is one of the most elevated in the Union. Cheat river, a branch of the' Monongahela, rises in the northern part, — Gauley river, a branch of the Great Kanawha, rises in tlieAvestern part, and Green- brier river, a branch h'kewise of the Great Kanawha, rises in the extreme northeastern part, and flowing in a southwestern direction, nearly parallel with the main Alleghany range, passes through Greenbrier into Monroe, on the border of which it unites with New.river. Knapp's creek, the largest tributary which the Greenbrier receives in this county, rises at the foot ot the Alleghany, flows for some distance along its base, and then turning at right angles flows north west by Huntersville, and empties into the Green- brier a few miles below that town. The mean height of the arable soil of Greenbrier county is 1700 feet above the level of the ocean, and as it is situated lower down on the Greenbrier than the county of Pocahontas, it is -fair to presume that the height of the lowest part of the latter must be at least equal to 1800 feet above the ocean, which is equivalent to four de- grees of latitude. Greenbrier mountain enters Pocahontas on the N. E. and passes through to the S. W. — from its western side flow Gauley and Elk rivers. Thesurface is vary broken and rocky, but the southern part is quite productive of all the staples common to the same latitude, — towards the northeast the land is more barren. The principal timber ^vhich it pro- duces is white and black spruce, yevi, pine, white oak, chesnut, sugar maple, hickory, beech, v.-alaut, bock-eye, &.c= &lc. The inhabitants are honest, industrious, hospitable and enterprising citizens. Population in 1830, 2,541. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district, ^^ax paid in 1833, ^386 09— in 1834 on lots, $13 92— on land $199 36—186 slaves, $34 00—1154 horses, $92 76— 6 studs, $29 00—1 coach, $2 00— 2 carryalls, $2 25. Total $373 29. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $211 29— in 1833, $157 28. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &e. Cackley's p. O. 202 ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 244 from W., situ- ated 2 ms. W. of Greenbrier river, immediately on the main post road leading from Huntersville to I^ewis- burg, 12 ms, S. W. of the former, and 36 N. E. of the latter place. It contains several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 oil mill, 1 carding machine, 1 tan _vard, &c. &c. The country around is mostly level and fertile, producing well Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, flax, &c., and is an excellent grass country. This is called the Little Levels. First rate springs abound' in almost every direction, and most or all of them sink again after running a ^hort dis- ance. Green Bank, P. O. 2.00 ms. from R. and 242 W. of W., siluated on the north bank of Deer creek, six miles above its intersection with the Green- brier river, and 19 north of Hunters- ville. This is merely a post office, situated in the heart of a thickly set- tled neighborhood, which contains 1 house of public worship, free for all denominations, called Deer Creek Union Meeting House, 5 common schools, 1 well organized temperance, bible, tract and Sunday school society, with a considerable library, 2 mer- cantile stores, several excellent coun- try mills, and various other mechan- ics. The land of the surrounding country' is beautifully diversified by hill and dale. The soil is rich, pro- WESTERN VIRGIMA— POCAHONTAS. 419 diicitig in abundance wheat, rye, oats, /Randolph co. and 43 from Lewisbiirg corn, «fcc. The principal pursuits of in Greenbrier county. There are the inhabitants are grazing and rais- near this village two sulphur springs, ing stock. There are large quanti- ties of butter, venison hams, ifec. tak- en to market from this section of country. The inhabitants are also expert in the manufacture of sugar 3.1 id to possess good qualities. Popu- lation 125 persons; of whom 1 is a resident attorney. Counlij Courts are held on the \st Tuesday \\\ every month; Quarlerly from the maple tree. There is a very! in MttrcA, June, August, and Novem great curiosity in the meanders oilier. Deer creek. About .'j miles below' Judge Taylor holds his Circuit Green Bank, the creek runs several [Superior Court of Law and Chance- miles round a cun-siderable hill, and; ry on the 2d of May a?id October. thence back within thirty poles of the! " JMatthjewsville, P. O. 205 ms. place it had passed, aflording some! from R. and 247 W. of W., situated fine seats for manufactories, with suf-ion the main post road leading from ficieiit water powerto force machiaery| Huntersville to Clarksburg, the touc- to any extent. j ly seat of Harrison, 15 miles from HUNTERSVILLE, P. V. andl the former, and on Settlington's creek, county seat, 191 ms. N. W. by W.'a branch of the Greenbrier, 2.^ miles of R. and 233 S. W. by W. of W., from hs junction with the river. This situated in lat. 38° 12' N. and long 3° i ' W. of \V. C. It is situated be- tween Greenbrier and Alleghany mountains, at an elevation above the post o/Hce is located in a densely set' tied neighborhood, in its immediate vicinhv are a considerable number of scattering dwelling houses, 1 house Atlantic of upwards of 1,800 feet, onlof public worship, (Presbyterian,) 1 Knapp's creek, 6 miles from its junc-i school house and 1 merchant mill, tion with the Cireenbrier river. Ill with a populaiion of about 400. The contains besides the usual countyiland of the surrounding country is buildings, 23 dwelling houses, (most-l fertile, producing wheat, rye. oati, ly frame,) 3 mercantile .stores, 2 ta-jd^c, but is more generally famed for verns, and 1 school in which the or-! fine meadow and pasture grounds. dinary branches of English educa-' Knapp'.s Ckeek, P.O. 242 ms. S. tion are taught, 2 tailors, 2 house car-; W. of W. penters and cabinet makers, 1 boot' Traveller's Repose, P. O. 179 and shoo maker, and 1 blacksmith; ms. from R. and 221 S. W. by W. of shop. There arc in this place 2 well! W., situated in a thickly settled neigh- organized bible classes, and 1 temper-i borhood, on the head of Greenbrier, ance society. A turnpike road has between the north and east forks of lately been located from the Warmjthat river, immediately on the main Springs in Bath county to Hunters-j post road leading from Stauntoil.to ville, thence to intersect the north-j Clarksburg, and 32 ms. from Hun- westcrn road between Clarksburg andj tcrsrille, the county seat. It contains Parkersburg, or to strike the Ohio! 12 dwelling house, 1 tayern, 1 .store, river below the latter place. Theiand several mechanics. The soil is road when finished will add greatly; productive of wheat, rye, oats, buck^ to the advancement of this village, wheat, potatoes, &c., affording exceU and the surrounding country, there| lent pasturage for stock. It is hound- being as fine lands in this section asled by various mountains, the most perhaps in any part of Virginia, noted is the Alleghany on the east, H'lntersville is 22 miles from thd the Laurel Ridge on the west, and the Warm Springs, 65 from Beverly in' Elk mouuiani on the north— which 420 WESTERN VIRGINIA— PRESTON. still abounds with the elk. The soil I is froqueutly met with here. The of these mountains is rich and affords Cheat mountain turnpike runs thro' immense ranges for cattle, &c. The this place and the mail is received timber is generally sugar maple, once a week on horseback, chesnut, oak, and pine. The fir tree PRESTON. Preston was created by the Legislature in 1618, from a portion of Monongalia county. It is bounded N. by Fayette county of Pennsylvania, — E. by Alleghany county of Maryland, — S. by Randolph, — and W. by Monongalia Its mean length is 3f3 mileS; mean breadth 20; and area 601 square miles. Its mean lat. is 39° SO' and long. 2° 38' W. of VV. C. Its extent and population have been somewhat increased, though we do not know precisely to what degree, since the taking of the last census and the publication of Boyee's map of the State, by extending its eastern border to the "Fairfax Stone," situated at the extreme southwestern angle of Mary- land. The main Alleghany chain runs near the eastern border of this county, and the Chesnut ridge separates it from Monongalia on the west. The body of the county is a valley between these two chains. Cheat river enters the southern side and winds to the N. Vv. dividing the county into two nearly equal sections. The general face of the county is mountainous, interspersed on the east- ern and western sides with large natural meadows called "glades," which afford support for large herds of cattle in simrnier, and in v;inter also, when it is mown and cured ior winter food. The glades are destitute of timber but covered in summer with grass and weeds, with frequent projecting points of timber, low bushes, &c. The soil of this section of the county is better suited to grass than grain, though small quantities of corn and wheat are grown in the glades, and abundant crops of oats, buckwheat and rye. The alluvial or bottom grounds are small but productive and many of the mountain and hill sides produce abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, oats, &c. The principal water is Cheat river, about 180 yards wide at the Dunkard Bottom; though branches of the Monongahela and Youghiogany water a large part of the county. The general strata of rock so far as known, is a kind of sand stone, occasional portions of Avhich are intermixed with flinty pebbles so compact as to be used for mill stones to advantage ; but much ot it is easily wrought for building houses, &c. Slate and lime- stone is common : the county is abundantly supplied with bituminous coal, and specimens of iron ore are often found. Population in 1820, 3,480— 1830, 5,144. This county belongs to the twentieth judicial circuit, and tenth district. Tax paid in 1833, $437 91— in 1834 on lots, $24 54— land $264 31—56 slaves, $14 00— 1SS2 horses, $112 92—17 studs, $73 50—2 carryalls, $3 00. Total $492 97. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $306 94--in 1833, $361 92. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. ^Brandonville. P. V. 280 ms. N.la newly settled village, plea.santly W^ of R. and 202 from W. This is Isituated' in the centre of a rapidly WESTERN VlllGlNIA— PRESTON. 421 improving neighborhood, in the north- ern section of the county, about four jniles from the Pennsylvania line, on the road leading from Smitlifield in Pennsylvania to Morgantown, Vir- ginia. It contains 20 dwelling- houses, 1 house of public worship, (Methodist,) 1 tavern, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 1 hatter, 1 wagon maker, 2 cabinet makers, 1 wheelwright and chair maker. 1 silversmith, 1 tailor, 1 blacksmith shop, 2 mcrcantiie stores, 1 common school, 1 temperance and I colonization society. Popula- tion KJU. EvANsviLLK, P. O. situated in the western part of the county, near the north western turn])ike road. German Skttlkmknt, P. O. 270 ms. from R. and 270 N. W. by W. of W. situated 18 ms. S. E. of Kings- wood. This setdement, in the midst of which is situated a small village called Moruit Carmel, took its name from its first settlers, who Vvfere Ger- mans. It contains between 80 and 100 dwelling hou.ses, besides me- chanic's shops, &.C , I house of public worship, free for all denominations, 2 mercantile stores, 3 grist mills, 4 saw mills, 1 wool carding machine, 2 tan yards, 2 gun smiths, 4 blacksmith shops, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon ma- ker, 1 millwright, several house car- penters, cabinet makers, house-join- ers, &;c. But the principal pursuit of the inhabitants is agriculture. This settlement is watered by tlie Youghiogany,the north fork of which heads near Mount Carmel, and is known by the name of Ryan creek. Wolf creek which empties into Cheat river, also heads near this place. The soil is of the first quality, and pro- ductive of all kinds of grain; and es- pecially productive of grass. An abundance of potatoes and turnips are raised in this section of countrv- The climate is cool and salubrious. Pure springs of never failing water flow in abundance through tliis set- tlement. The principal staple com- modities raised for market, are live stock of every discription, and large quantities of butler of the first quali- ity, &c. This settlement, like many others in Western Virginia, has been sealed up ever since the settling of the same, for want of suitable roads for transportation through the Alle- ghany mountains in order to unite in commerce with the eastern country. The northwestern turnpike road of Virginia from Winchester to Par- kersbnrg, passes immediately through the (ji-rman Settlement. This road is in rapid progress, and there is no grade through tiie Alleghany moun- tains that exceeds four and a half de-- grees. This ap))ropriation of money by the Legislature of Virginia is of the greatest utility to this section of the State. The number of families, which may be called attached to this settlement will not exceed 70, the ag gregale number of inhabitants about 500. and what may be further worthy of remark (in Virginia,) that in this number are not more than three or four blacks. KINGWOOD, P. V. and seal of justice, 261 ms. irom R. and 183 N. W. bv W. of VV., in lat. 39^~ 27' N. and long. 2° 45' W. of W. G, situated on a beautiful and healthy eminence, 2 ms. W. of Cheat river». 20 E. of Morgantown, 43 from Clarksburg, in Harrison county, and 60 from Beverly, in Randolph countv- It contains besides the ordinary couii- ty buildings, which are substantially built of stone, 25 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, and va- rious mechanics. Population about 150 persons; of whom 3 are resi- dent attorneys, and 1 a regular phy- sician. County Courts are held on the 2^ Monday in every month: — Qvaiter- /// in March, May, August and No- fcmber. .TuDGE Fry holds his Circuit Su- perior Court of Law and Chancery, on the \st of April, aud September. 422 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RANDOLPH. RANDOLPH. Randolph was established by act of Assembly in the year 1787, and formed from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Preston, — N. E. by the Alleg-hany mountain, which separates it from Hardy, — E. by the same mountain, separating- it from Pendleton, — S. by Pocahontas, — S. W. by Nicholas, — W. l)y Lewis and Harrison, — and N/W. by iMononga- lia. Its mean length is 61)^ miles diminished by the difference which would be occasioned by taking from it that portion which is laid down in our maps as coterminous with Maryland, — which has been added to Preston, — its mean breadth 31; and its area ;i,()Gl square miles, diminished by the area of the above space alluded to: extending- in lat. from about 38^ 18' to 39° 1 r N. and in long, from about 2" 15' to 3° 23' W of W. C. This county is one of the finest on the western side of the Alleghany mountains, and is made up of several parallel ranges of mountains with their intervening vallies. 'i'he largest of these mountains commencing on the east is the Alleghany, which runs north and soutli dividing this county from Pendleton; the next in order are Rich, Middle and Shaver mountains, running in the same direction. At the foot of the latter, flows Shaver's Fork, which is stocked with some of the finest fish which the western wa- ters afibrd. This stream empties into the Monongahela, 12 miles below Morgantown. The next mountain is the Valley mountain, which derives its name from Tygart's valley. This valley constitutes a considerable por- tion of the county, being about 35 miles in length, and 2 in breadth, and a body of as fine land as any in Western Virginia, and in a high state of im- provement. Through this valley flows the middle branch of the Mononga- hela, or Tygart's valley river, to which it gives source. The next moun- tain is the Laurel, which runs also a north and south course, the whole length of the valley; at the extromity of which it makes a bend and takes a northeast difcctioii, till it meets Cheat rivi'r, whence it flows nearly in a north course, till it enters the State of Pennsylvania. At the foot of Ty- gart's valley, where the Laurel hill makes its angh; to the east, Chester river breaks through the mountain. The valley and mountains pr<'senting the strongest evidence that at some early day they had formed a lake. These mountains alTord some of the finest streams of water in Western Virginia, the principal of w^hich are tlie Dry fork — Laurel fork — CJlade fork — and Shaver's fork — all handsome streams, having their rise in the S. W. part of the county, running parallel within a few miles of each other, and after tra- versing a considerable distanc(> through the county emptying into Cheat river. The mountains are well stocked with the fine.-st timber, such as every de- scription of the oak, poplar, cherry, pine, fir, red cedar, &,c, — and they are almost a mass of stone coal and iron ore. The soil of these mountains is very rich, and abounds with lime stone, slate and freestone. In some parts of these mountains are found small caverns or caves, in which is found a kind of copperas — fit for dye, and which is used for that purpose,— and along some of the water courses is found the allum peeping out of the joints of the rocks, forming in the shape of icicles. Among all these watercourses and low grounds are found salt springs. There has been salt made to a considerable amount, but for the want of funds and men of enterprise, these useful minerals remain in their natural state. In this county are a considerable number of fine .'^to;•k farms, which graze and raise annuully l\46 00 — 3 coaches, ^G 00 — 3 carryalls, ft3 00 — 'I'otal, SG39 47. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, ft280 04 — in 1833, $600 09. TOWNS. VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. BEVERLY, P. V. and seat o/"jdists, are met with. This village con- justice, 210 ms. N. W. by VV. of R. tains a population of 166 whites, of and 221 S. W. of W. — in lat. 38°50'|whom two are resident attornies, and N. and long. 2° 55' W. of W. C. — two regular physicians, — 16 slaves situated near the centre of Tygart's and 2 free colored — Total, 184. Valley, near Tygart'.s Valley river. County Courts are held oji the Atk on a handsome plain, stretched out be- 1 Mo?/r/^7/ in every month; — Quarter- tween Phillis's creek, and Dotson's run. The former entering the river a little above, and the latter about a quarter of a mile below the town. — Beverly contains besides the public builduigs, 3 mercantile stores, 2 ta- verns, I common school, 1 tanyard, 2 ly in March, June, August and .Vo- r ember. Circuit Superior Courlsof Law and Chancery are held on the 19/// of A- pril and \3th September by Judge DuNC.W. BiLLSBURG, P. O. 240 ms. from R. saddlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 3 and 224 from W. blacksmith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon | Boothe's Ferry, P. O. 240 ms. maker, 1 house carpenter, 2 tailors, from R. and 299 W. of W. — Situated creek, are inconsiderable streams, falling into Clinch river on the north; and Cedar Spring, Beckys branch. Mill creek, and Castle Run on the south. The principal streams of the Sandy is the Louisa Fork in the northeastern section, running nearly north west; The Pound Fork (so called from a bend in the river resembling somewhat in shape a horse shoe) takes its rise towards the Guess' river, runs east near to Cumberland mountain and unites, with McClure's Fork, and afterwards Russell's Fork at the state line of Kentucky. There is a remarkable cascade upon Big Cedar creek. In its passage through Cop- per ridge its waters are precipitated over a rock of considerable height, and they then wander in a circuitous route of many miles to seek a union with the Clinch river, which here runs at a short distance from it by a direct line, and which also rolls over a very shoally and serpentine chan- nel above and below their junction, and at one place is very narrow and rapid, occasioned by the projei-.tion of rocks from the north side. The whole county occupies an elevated region, independent of the mountain ridges, from 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the ocean tides. Roads. — By a late act of Assembly a road has beeii esinbli.-^hed on the joint stock plan, leadiufi from Prices turnpike in Boteiouri. tu V.'uiii-berlarwl 436 WESTERN VIRGIMA— RUSSELL. Gap, which will pass through Lebanon. Its route was surveyed by the Engineer to cross Copper ridge, 3 miles west of Lebanon, and through Castles' Woods, into Scott, &c. Its location by the Copper creek valley so as to cross Copper lidge in Scott county, is strongly recommended by some, and the people on both routes are engaged with spirit in working out the respective advantages. The road from Lebanon to Abingdon passes by the way of Little Mocasin Gap, — that to the Salt Works in Washington, andj Smyth, by Hayter's Gap, — that to Scott C. H. (Estillville,) either by Dickensonville, or down the valley of Mocasin Creek. A road has been opened along ihe Louisa Fork ol Sandy, as a line of communication with Kentucky, aided by an appropriation from the State of $3000; but it was so injudiciously located and badly constructed, that it is almost impassable, A track has also been opened from Castle Woods, via Guess' river and the Pound Fork of Sandy, to the State of Kentucky, passing Cumberland mountain, communicating with Pike and Ferry counties, Ky. Meetitig Houses. — The Episcopalians, Methodists, and Baptists have about 12 meeting houses in this county, besides various other places of meeting at private houses. There is no other sect having a congregation, society or church. The Methodists are the more numerous body of chris- tians. Manufactures. — There are no merchant mills (properly speaking) in Russell. Hendrick's on Cedar creek is the best establishment of that kind; flour from it is sometimes sent down the Holston and Tennessee to Hunts- ville. There are no factories of iron, wool, or cotton in this county, ex- cept carding machines, although there are many sites suitable for Avater power. Capital, and an opening for market, are wanting to give encour^ agement to these branches of industry. Productions. — This county having many parcels of rich and fertile soil, produces in abundance most of ihe necessaries of life. Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats clover, and the grasses introduced, succeed well; but its distance from market and the late neglected state of improvement of \\ie roads, have hitherto compelled the farmer lo rear stock as the principal means of ad- vancing his estate. There are several quarries of marble not far distant from Lebanon, of a greyish complexion. It is used for tomb stones, and for the fronts of hearths. Some specimens of it have been taken to the South. The liine stone is a prevailing mineral in the southern section of this county ; amongst it are found many caverns, few of which, however, are of much notoriety. Thei'e are two remarkable rocks upon the range of mountain between Clinch river and the upper waters of Big Cedar creek in the eastern pan of the county; the one from its form is called a house, and the other a bam, and hence the name of the Hoiise and Barn mountain. Several extensive beds of iron ore exist in this county, but are not at present worked. Stotie coal is found in .some of the ravines north of Clinch river, and is deemed of excellent quality by the blacksmiths who use it. This county had its name in honor of Gen'l William Russell, who formerly resided on an estate of about 600 acres in Castles Woods, but who at the time of his death lived near to and had an interest in Presto/i's old Salt works, in Washington county, now Smyth. The principal population of this county is contained between Clinch mountam and a distance of from 12 to 15 miles north of its base ; the northern and greater portion of its territory being so mountainous, sterile, WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 437 and inconvenient of aceess, tliat the population is, and will be for many years hence, very inconsiderable. There are several rich and valuable sections of land in this county ; the principal are, Gilmer's Settlemenf, be- tween Lebanon and Big Cedar creek, — JElk Garden, in the vicinity of Hayter's Gap,-^Castle' s Woods, between Copper ridge and Clinch, west of Lebanon, — and the Mocami Valley, lying between a ridge of that name and Clinch mountain opposite and below Little Mocasin Gap. In these sections the first settlements of the country were made. Professions. — There are two resident attornies in the county, one living in the village at Lebanon, and the other in the country; — one resident phy- sician in Lebanon and two in the country : but the exemption heretofore of this section of the Slate from many of the diseases prevalent more frequent- ly in other places ; and the scarcity of litigation in the Courts, have not presented either to the one or the other, the prospect of much gain from a reliance upon their respective professions. Early Traditions. — In this part of Virginia, as in most other frontier settlements, the first settlers encountered manj^ hardships, and experienced many scenes of dreadful suffering from the hostile Indians, who made fre- quent incursions from beyond the Ohio river for purposes of plunder, or savage revenge. In these incursions the most tragic scenes of cold blood- ed butchery were acted ; and the survivors sometimes carried into a cap- tivity more painful and distressing than the excruciating deaths to which their relatives had been subjected. Many well authenticated accounts of these cruelties, and of hair-breadth escapes, are still preserved. We give in a note* an example of the sufferings and heroism displayed by the early * A NARRATIVE of the Captivity and Escape of Mrs. Frances Scott, of Wash^ ington coimly, Va. On Wednesday, the 29th day cf June, 1785, late in the evening, a large company- of armed men pa.ssed the house on their way to Kentucky ; some part of whom en- camped within two miles. Mr. Scott, living on a frontier part, generally made the- family watchful; but on this calamitous day, after so largp a body of men had pass^ ed, he lay down in his bed and imprudently left one of the 4pors of liis hotise open; the children were also in bed and asleep, Mrs. Scott was nearly undressed, when to, her unutterable astonishijient and horror, she saw rushing in through the door that was left open, painted savages with presented arms, raising a hideous shriek. Mr, Scott, being awake, in.slantly jumped from his bed, but was immediately fired at ; he forced his way through the middle of the enemy and got out of the door, but fell a few paces from thence. An Indian seized Mrs. Scott, and ordered her to a particu- lar spot and not to move; others stabbed and cut the throats of the three youngest children in their bed, and afterwards lifted them up and dashed them on the floor near the mother; the eldest, a beautiful girl of eight years old, awoke and escaped out of the bed and ran to her mamma with the mo.st plaintive accents, cried, "O mamma! mamma! save me!" — the mother in the deepest anguish of spirit, and with a floo i of tears, entreated the savages to spare her child : but with a brutal fierceness they tomahawked and stabbed her in the mother's arms. Adjacent to Mr. Scott's dwelling-house another family lived of the name of Ball. The Indians also attacked them at the same instant they did Mr. Scott ; but the door being shut, the enemy fired into the house through an opening between two logs, and killed a lad, and then essayed to force the door open: but a surviving brother fired through the door, and the enemy desisted and went off"; the remaining part of the family ran out of the house and escaped. In Mr. Scott's were four good rifles loaded, belonging to people Uiat had \eil them on llieir way to Kentucky. — The Indians loaded themselves with the plunder, being liiiiteen in number, then speedily made oft', and continued travel- ling all night ; next morning tlieir chief allotted to each man his share, and detach- ed nine of the party to steal horses from the inhabitants on Clinch. The eleventh day after Mrs. Scott's captivity, four Indians that had her in charge stopped at a place fixed on for rendezvous, and to hunt, being now in great want of provisions. Three went out, and the chief being an old man was left to take care ol llie prisoner,^ who by this time expressed a willingness tu proceed to the Indian towns, which 438 WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSETX. settlers, in the narrative of Mrs. Scott of Powell's Valley, which is now in Lee county, but which was formerly in Russell, and before its formation, in Washin>2fton county, which was published in the New Haven Gazette of Dec. 27th, 1785. .seemed to have the desired effect of lessening her keeper's vigilance. In the day- time while the old man was graining a deer skin, the captive, pondering on her situ- ation, and anxiously looking for an opportunity to make her escape, took a resolution and went to the Indian carelessly, asked liberty to go to a small distance to a stream of water to wash the blood olf her apron, that had remained besmeared since the fatal night of the murder of her little daughter. He told her in the English tongue, "go along;" she then passed by him, his face being iu a contrary direction from that she was going, and he very busy. She, after getting to the water, proceeded on with- out delay, made to a high barren mountam, and travelled until late in the evening, when she came down into the valley in search of the track she had been taken along; ht)ping thereby to find the way back, without th., risk of being lost and perishing with hunger in uninhabited parts. On coming across the valley to the river side, — .supposed to be the easterly branch of Kentucky river — she observed in the sand, tracks of two men that had gone up the river and had just returned. She concluded these to have been her pursuers, which e.xcited emrtions of gratitude and thankfulness to Divine Providence for so timely a deliverance. Being without any provisions, having no kind of weapon or tool to assist her in getting any, and almo.st destitute of clothing — also knowing that a vast tract of rugged high mountains intervened between where she was and the inhabilams easterly, and she almost as ignorant as a child of the method of steering the woods, excited painful sensations. But certain death, either by hunger or wild )jea.sts, seemed to be better than to be in the power of beings who excited in her mind such horror. — She addressed Heaven, and taking courage proceeded onward. After travelling three days, she had nearly met with the Indians, as she supposed, that had been .sent to Clinch to steal horses, but providentially hearing their approach, cottcealed herself among the cane until the enemy had passed. — This giving her a fresh alarm, and her mind being filled with consternation, she got lost, proceeded backwards and forwards for several days; at length she came to a river that seemed to come from the east — concluding it was Sandy river, she accordingly resoh'ed to trace it to its .source, which is adjacent to the Clinch settlement. After proceeding cip the same several days, she came to where the river runs through the great Laurel mountain, where is a prodigious waterfall, and high craggy cliffs along the water- edge ; that way seemed impassable, the mountain steep and diliicult ; — however, our mournful traveller concluded the latter way was best. — She therefore ascended for some time, but coming to a range of lofty and inaccessible rocks, she turned her course towards the fool of the mountain and the river side ; after getting into a deep gulley, and passing over several high steep rocks, .she reached the river side, where to her inexpressible affliction she found that a perpendicular rock, or rather one that hung over, of fifteen or twenty feet high, formed the bank. — Here a solemn pause €nsue<^ ; she essayed to return," but the "height of the .steeps and rocks she had des- cended over prevented her. She Ih* n returned to the edge of the precipice, and viewing the bottom of it as the certain spot to end all her troubles, or remain on the top U) pine away with hunger, or be devoured by beasts. Alter serious meditation and devout exercises, she determined on leaping" from the height, and accordingly jumped off. Although the place slie had to alight was covered with uneven rocks, not a bone was broken; but being exceedingly stunned by the tail, she remained unable to proceed for some space of tjme. The dry se&,son caused the river to be shallow — she travelled in it, and, where she could, by" its edge, until she got through the mountain, which .she concluded was several iniles. After this, as she was travelling along the bank of the river, a veno- mous snake bit her on the ancle; she had strength to kill it, and knowing its kind, concluded that deatli must .soon overtake her. By this time, Mrs. Scott was reduced to a mere skeleton with fatigue, hunger, anlie would never see a human crcQiiire. During tlii.* WESTERN VIRGINIA— RUSSELL. 439 Population in 1820, 5,536 — in 1830, 6,714. This county bclonj^s to the fifteenth judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in lb33, 8668 60 — in 1834 on lots, $22 54— on hind, $247 00—306 slaves, $01 50—3301 horses, $198 06— 23 studs, $103 00— 7 carryalls, $7 00— Total, $660 98. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $418 44 —in 1833, $485 64.- TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Bichley's Mii.ls, p. O. situated in Castle's Woods. Clifton, P. O. 312 nis. S. W. of R. and 374 from W., situated on the INlaiden Spring Fork. DicKEXsoNviLLE, P. O. This ! village was formerly the seat of jus-j tice, but since that has been removed i to Lebanon, it is almost depopulated,! and the houses in a state of dilapida-' lion. ! LEBANON, P. V. and seat of\ justice, 330 ms. from R. and 394 S. W. by W. of W., in lat. 36° 53' N.| and long. 5^ 03' W. of W. C, situat-l ed about 130 ins. N. E. by E. ofj Knoxville, Ten., on Little Cedar' creek, a branch of Clinch river hav-' ing its source in Clinch mountain,! on a southern inclination, near the centre of the population of the coun- ty. It is well watered by springs, and commands a beautiful prospect of Clinch mountain on the south, whose lofty summits present an almost un- broken range from Little Moccasin to Hayter's Gap, a distance of 12 miles. On the lett of the latter gap, and directly east of this village, the mountain rises to a considerable height and is covered on the .sunihiit with evergreens, — an)ongst whicJi is the balsam tree, from which a resinous substance is extracted, and which is celebrated as useful in the cure of chronic diseases. This village was located in 1816, and in 1818 the seat of justice was established here. The court house which is of stone, is the only permanent building in the place, the rest being all wooden tenements and most of them rather indifTerent. It contains 6 mercantile stores, 1 grocery, 2 tan yards, 2 blacksmiths, 2 tailors, 1 hatter, 1 cabinet maker,, and in the vicinity 1 school house. The main road from Botetourt, thro' Montgomery and Giles to Cumber- land Gap, passes through this village, and will when completed, contribute much to the prosperity of this place and the adjoining country. County Courts are held on the Tuesday after the first Monday in every month: — Quarterly in March, June, August and November. Circuit Superior Courts of Law and Chancery are held on the Sri Monday in April and September, by Judge Estill. doubt, a beautiful bird passed close by her, fluttering along the ground, and went out of sight up one of the valleys. This drew her attention, and whilst considering what It might mean, another bird of the .same appearance in like manner fluttered past her, and took the same valley the former had done. This determined her choice of the way ; and in two days, which was on the 11th day of August, she reached the settlement on Clinch, called New Garden ; whereas, (she is since informed by wood- men,) had she taken the other valley it would have led her back towards the Ohio. Mrs. Scott relates that the Indians told her that the parly was composed of four dif- ferent nations, two of whcmi she thinks they named Delawares and Mingoes. She further relates, that during her w luidenng from the lUili of .July to the 11th of August, she had no other subsistence but chewing and svvalhiwing the juice of young cane stalks, sassafras leaves, and some oilier plants she did not know the names of; that on her journey she saw bivfi'ak)es, elks, deers, and frequently bears and wolves — not one of which, although some passed very near her, offered her the least harm. One day a bear came near her wiili a young fawn in his mouth, and on discovering her he dropped his prey and ran oil'. Hunger prompted her to go and tnke the Hesh and eat it ; but on reflection she desisted, thinking that the bear might return and de- vour her — besides, she had an aversion to taste raw flesh. 440 Western virginIA— scott. SCOTT. Scott was established by act of Assembly in 1814, and formed from por- tions of Lee, Washington and Russell. It is bound N. and N E. by Rus- sell, — E. by Washington, — S. by Sullivan and Hawkins counties of Ten- nessee, — tind W. by Lee. Its mean lat. is about 46° 47' N., its long. 5° 40' W. of W. C — its mean length 26 mileS; mean breadth 24, and area 624 square miles. The face of the country is mountainous and uneven. — Clinch mountain passes through the county from N. E. to S. W. — all the principal ridges and streams take the same direction. The county is exceedingly well watered by good springs, creeks and rivers, and possesses water power in abundance. The soil is generally good, some of superior quality, (he poorest well suit- ed to small grain, — good meadows can be made almost any where. The county is well suited to rearing stock. The principal groicth consists of poplar, hickory, beech, sugar maple, white Etnd black oak, lynn, buckeye, black walnut; chesnut on the mountains and ridges, and wild cherry is found in many places. The chief productions are, Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, el. The aspect of the surrounding country, and espe- cially of that to the northward of the tunnel, and constituting the southerly slope of the mountain just mentioned, is exceedingly diversified and broken, by elevated spurs and ridges, separat- ed from each other by deep chasms, walled with cliffs and mural precipi- ces, often presenting exceedingly nar- rovtT passes, but occasionally widening into meadows or bottoms of considera- ble extent. The mural precipices just mentioned, occur very frequently, bounding the valleys of the streams generally in this part of the country, and opposing ramparts of formidable heighl, and in many places utterly in- surmountable. Such are the features peculiarly characteristic of Wild Cat Valley, the Valley of Copper Creek, of Powell's and Clinch rivers, and of numerous other streams of less note, all of which are situated within a few miles of the natural tunnel. " To form an adequate idea of this remarkable and truly sublime object, we have only to imagine the creek to which it gives a passage, meandering through a deep narrow valley, here and there bounded on both sides by walls or revetements of the character above intimated, and rising to the height of two or three hundred feet above the stream; and that a portion of one of these chasms, instead of presenting an open thorough cut {rom the summit to the base of the high grounds, is- intercepted by a continu- ous unbroken ridge more than three hundred feet high, extending entirely across the valley, and perforated trans- versely at its base, after the manner of an artificial tunnel, and thus af- fording a spacious subterranean chan- nel for the passage of the stream. " The entrance to the natural tun- nel on the upper side of the ridge, is imposing and picturesque, in a higk degree; but on the lower side, the grandeur of the scene is greatly heightened by the superior magnitude of the clifis, which exceed in loftiness, and which rise perpendicularly — and in some instances in an impending manner- — two to three hundred feet; and by which the entrance on this side is almost environed, as it were, by an amphitheatre of rude and frightful precipices. "The observer, standing on the brink of the stream, at the distance of about one hundred yards below the debouchure of the natural tunnel, has, in front,-a view of its arched entrance, WESTERN VIRGINIA— SCOTT. 44S rising seventy or eighty feet above the water, and surmounted by horizontal stratifications of yellowish, white and grey rocks, in depth nearly twice the height of the arch. On his left, a view of the same maral precipice, de- flected from the springing of the arch in a manner to pass thence in a con- tinuous curve quite to his rear, and towering in a very impressive man- ner, above his head. On his right, a sapling growth of buck-eye, poplar, linden, &.c. skirting the margin of the creek, and extending obliquely to the right, and upward through a narrow, abrupt ravine, to the summit of the ridge, which is here, and elsewhere, crowned vvilhatimber growth of pines, cedars, oaks, and shrubbery of various kinds. On his extreme right, is a gi- gantic cliff lifting itself up perpendi- cularly from the water's edge, to the height of about three hundred feet, and accompanied by an insulated cliff, called the chimney, of about the same altitude, rising in the form of a tur- ret, at least sixty feet above its base- ment, which is a portion of the impos- ing cliff just before mentioned. " In order to give a more full de- scription of the magnificent spectacle which forms the subject of this article, I shall transcribe some of the minutes taken from my private notes, whilst on the ground; but first I shall give an extract from a letter addressed to me by my friend P. C. Johnston, Esq. of Abingdon, in the adjoining county to Scott, a gentleman well acquainted with this interesting locality. " 'The rocks through which Stock creek flows, are a light blue and gray limestone, of a subcrystalline charac- ter; the strata are nearly horizontal; and this arrangement of the strata is obvious for several miles northeast- wardly; but in every other direction, very near the bridge, (natural tunnel,) they have the dip usual in the coun- try to the S. E. at an angle generally of from 30° to 50°. This tunnel is near what I have believed to be the N.W. boundary of the transition for mation, a little within it. I have not been able to discover any organic re- mains in the limestone there, or in the neighborhood. On the little projec- tions of the rock which occur on the walls, near the lower (S.) end of the tunnel, a crystallized deposit is lodged, which you no doubt recollect, that seemed to my taste to be a mixture of saltpetre and alum. No attempt has been made to analyze it. The earth found near the upper (N.) extremity of the tunnel some years ago, (the first time I visited it,) afforded saltpe- tre. The crystallized deposit seems to be made from a stratum apparently not more than six inches thick, which is so high that it cannot be reached for examination. The growth of tim- ber is such as is common in the neigh- boring country, white, red, Spanish, black oaks; hickory, white walnut, dogwood, poplar, chesnut, birch, iron- wood; some hemlock and pawpaw (asimina triloba) on the banks of the creek, and the edges of the cliffs fring- ed with cedar. On the creek, below the tunnel for two miles, is found that variety of ash called the fringe tree, (ch ionanth us virginica,) the long white fringe-like blossoms of which are so deligMfuHy fragj-ant.'* The following passages are front my own private journal: 'Saturday, Aug. 13, 1831. Hav. ing ascended Cove ridge, Ave turned aside from our route to visit the natu- ral bridge, or tunnel, situated on Buck^ eye, or Stock creek, about a mile be- low the Sycamore camp,t and about one and a half miles from a place call- * This plant, in the natural system, be- longs to the oleo.cetz, or olive tribe. The flowers of the olea fragrans are u.sed for flavoring tea in China. We offer this hint to our readers who have access to the chio- nanthus. — Ed. + Thi.s designation hasbeen given toa spot in the valley of the creek, where formerly stood a hollow sycamore (planlanus occi- dentalis) tree of an enormous size, the i^e^- mains of which are still to be seen, and in the cavity of which, whilst it stood, fifteen persons are said to have encamped at the same time together. 444 WESTERN VIRGI NIA— SCOTT. ed Rye cove, which .occupies a spa- cious recess between two prominent spurs of Powell's mountain, the site of thenatural tunnel being included with- in a spur of Coveridge, which is one of the mountain spurs just alluded to. Here is presented one of the most re- markable and attractive curiosities of its kind to be witnessed in this or any other country. The creek, which is about seven yards wide, and has a general course about S. 15 W. here passes through a hill elevated from two to three hundred feet above the surface of the stream, winding its way through a huge subterraneous cavern, or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a peculiar manner, and rises from se- venty or eighty feet above its floor. The sides of this gigantic cavern rise perpendicularly in some places to the height of fifteen or twenty'- feet, and in others, are formed b\' the spring- ing of its vaulted roof immediately from its floor. The width of-the tun- nel varies from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet; its course is that of a continuous curve, resembling the let- ter S, first winding to the riglu as we enter on the upper side, then to the left, again to the right, and then again to the left, on arriving atthe eiitranee on the lower side. Such is its pecu- liar form, that an observer, standing at a point about midway of its subter- ranean course, is completely excluded from a view of either entrance, and is left to grope in the dark through a distance of about twenty yards, occu- pying an intermediate portion of the tunnel. When the sun is near the meridian, and his rays fall upon both entrances, the light reflected from both extremities of the tunnel, contributes to mollify the darkness of this interior portion into a dusky twilight. " ' The extent of the tunnel from its upper to its lower extremitv, followina: its meanders, is about 1.50 yards, in which distance the stream falls about' ten feet, emitting, in its passage over a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur,; which is rendered more grateful by .its reverberations upon the roof and sides of the grotto. The discharge of a musket produces a crash-like report, succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which has a deafening effect upon the ear. " 'The hill through which this sin- gular perforation leads, descends in a direction from east to west, across the line of the creek, and affords a very convenient passage for a road which traverses it at this place, having a de- scent in the direction just mentioned, of about four degrees ' " The rocks found in this part of the country are principally sandstone and limestone, in stratifications nearly horizontal, with occasional beds of clay slate. A mi.xture of the two for- mer frequently occurs among the al- ternations presented by these rocks. I A A'ariety of rock resembling the j French burr, occurs in abundance on [Butcher's fork, of Powell's river, about twenty miles northwardly of the natural tunnel. Fossils are more or less abundant in these and other rocks. Fossil- bones of an interesting character have been found in several places. Saltpetre caves are numerous. Coves, sinks and subterranean caverns are strikingly characteristic, not only of the country circumjacent to the na- tural tunnel, but of the region gene- rally situated between the Cumber- land mountain and the Blue Ridge or Apalachain mountain. Bituminous coal, with its usual accompaniments, abounds in the northerly parts of this region ; and in the intermediate and southerly portions, iron, variously combined, often magnetic, together with talcose rocks, &,e. &.c. are to be met with in great abvindance. " The mountains in this vicinity, long. 82° to 84° W. from Greenwich, lat. 35° to 36° N. are among the most lofty of the Alleghany range. Seve- ral knobs in this part of the range, among which may be enumerated the Roan, the Unaka, the Bald, the Black, and Powell's mountains, rise to the height of at least four thousand five hundred feet above tide." WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 445 SHENANDOAH. Shenandoah was established by act of Assembler in 1772, from a por- tion of the county of Frederick under the name of DirNMORE, from the name of Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Virginia; but in October 1777 after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonies in the contest with the mother country, one of the delegates from the county stated that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a coun- ty, bearing the name of such a tory, he therefore moved to call it Shenayi- doah,a.ker the name of the beautiful stream which passed through it; which was accordingly adopted. Shenandoah is bounded N. and N. E. by Fred- erick,— E. and'S. E. by Page,— S. and S. W. by Rockingham,-^ W. and N. W. by Hardy. Its average lat. is about 38° 50' N. and long. 1° 30' W. of W. C. ; — its greatest length from S. W. to N. E. is 32 miles, — average width 15, — and area 384 sq. ms. This is a fertile and populous county, situated in the valley. The whole county is traversed by the North Fork of Shenandoah river, lying between the Massanutten and North mountain. The North and South branches of the Shenandoah river pass through the entire length of the county and Page, and unite immediately below its north-eastern line, and form the Shenandoah river. They admit of a descending naviga-. tion when the waters are a little swollen, — its creeks are Cedar creek. Pas- sage creek, Stoney creek. Mill creek and Smith's creek. It is divided into four valleys, two of which are long and two small, — by the Three Topped or Massanutten mountain and the Little North mountain. 1'he larger val- leys are watered by the North and South Shenandoah rivers, the smaller vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land in the vallies is principal- ly limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian corn and oats, and is divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour, bacon, beef, butter and iron. Thtcre are within it 34 manufacturing flour mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar iron, and another furnace and forge are now be'ng erected. Its mineral re- sources have been but partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in suf- ficient quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate and sulphur springs which are places of resort in the warm season. The Valley oe the Gooney is situated in the eastern part of the county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge, It is bounded on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits of the Blue Ridge, on the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the N. and W. by Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently produc- tive, and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye, «fec. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster acts with an astonishing effect. There is a great proportion of excellent meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere; the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robu.st, having uniformly es- caped those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of Virginia. The principal stream is the Gooney, which is a creek of the largest class. It rises near the top of the Hog back, and running a N. W. 446 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. course about 12 miles, empties into the South River about 5 miles, above the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works, and mqves several merchant mi'ls and saw mills. The mountains, with ^yhieh it i« surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber. Tl^ere is a woollen factory, I common school, 2 churches (Methodist and Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain, — whiskey, plank and flour being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy, honest and indu.strious people. From the top ot the Blue Ridge, at Dade's gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahan- rjock, there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenan- doah (now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there is a remarkable rock called the Raven's Den, it having been occupied as the aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to pian. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch ,of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling GO or 70 feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed hy the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the wa- ters of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch. The Fort Mountain. This name has been given to a range of moun- tains in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and ex- tends in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with the meanderings of the North branch ot the Shenandoah river. Unlike the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is pre- cipitous and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with ja thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, &c. Its forests afford a shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with which the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the jCounty of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western base "by the North branch ot the Shenandoah river. At this place the fountain torks, and instead of one, there arc two distinct mountains, stretch- ing in the same direction, and running parallel to each other. These mountains form what is termed the Fort. Thfy have received the name " Fort Mountains," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose, which, with the addition ot some slight military fortifications might be ren- dered impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one >vhich leads from Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the Fort, and which at the expense of much labor is kept passable for light loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is about 2.5 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably fruitful in grass, corn, rye, buck-wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the up- per end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain current, which works several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is about 30 miles. The Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores, of which iron and copper are among its di.scovered mineral productions. There are in the Fort, several con)mon schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a sufficient number of mechanics. The population is about 700 souls. In making an excavation for a well, a few weeks since, (.Tan. 1S34,) some fine specimens of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below the present WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 447 surface of the earth. These pel rifar I Ions eonBi'st of toads, snakrs, &..c. in a state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terminate abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The points opposite this place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above the level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forms one of the most awful defiles in America. The space between the mountains is barely wide enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes in the bed of the large and rapid creek Avhich rushes impetuously over the rugo-ed surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises soper- pendicularly as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain espe- cially exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the ap- proaches of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vul- tures basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling breeze. In the cav^erns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures re- main in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest land- scape views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and look "down east" the beautifiil valley of the South river is presented Ml to his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent coxintVy m" te.rspersed with elegant country villas, fertile fan'ns and thifek forests alter- nately meet the eye. If he look a little higher his horizon is bounded hy the indented top of the Blue Ridge, which stretches N. and S. as far as the vision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the pro- found aby.ss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he station himself on the N. end of the West mountain, he has a full view d/ the valley of the North river. Strasburg, which is 4 miles distant, f*n]i^ars' almost under his feet. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middleto-wiV, 5 miles; further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large and' populous town of Winchester, — its stately dwellings and towering steeples glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen irr fwli perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps in the world, is seen from a point on the West Fort mountain nearly oppo- site Woodstock. Here, if the observer look toAvards " the far ea.st," t'hft' "blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further t^ii^n the eye can view, appears to peep into the clouds and to tower ahdve them, niany of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley which lies between the North- mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that a person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the farms which are seen from this point, the view from which, extends over a country about 1.5 miles in extent. The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is seen so plain- ly, that the observer may count almo.st every house in that beautiful village. Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley Avhich is watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mean- derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable distance towards Woodstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns to the mountain without the bend at either place being perceived. ' Thus it 448 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents the appearance of seven distinct rivers running parallel to each other. The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and forms a beautiful sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large enough for a beautiful farm, and the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the whole scene presents one of the most picturesque landscapes in the world. Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the Blue Ridge and the Massanutien mountain was taken off, and with a small part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When the county was first settled, about the year 1735, its population was com- posed principally of Irish and Scotch; but few of their descendants are now found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by Germans from Peimsylvania, — and the greater part of its population, now consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious people. A few j'ears since the German language was very much spoken and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English, which is now universally taught in all the schools. Population in 18-20, 18,926 — in 1830, 19.750. By the separation of Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the 14th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, 83,506 09 — in 1834, on lots, $253 33— land, $2,479 68—984 slaves, $246 00—5,575 horses, $334 50—22 studs, $128 00—23 coaches, $53 00—27 carryalls, $27 00 — 16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor chil- dren in 1832, $1,512 16— in 1833, $827 29. TOWNS, VILLAGES. POST OFFICES, &c. Allen's Cave. In the county of Shenandoah, a short distance from the town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave, which may with propriety, be styled a great natural curiosity. It is situat- ed on the right bank of the Shenan- doah, about a quarter of a mile from the river, in the side of a hill of con- siderable elevation. The face of the country in its vicinity, is romantic in the extreme, being a thick forest of oak, pine and cedar, intej'spersed with ledges and clifls of limestone. The entrance into this cavern is bj- a gradual descent of about 45'^. The mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15 in heiglit. After proceeding alunii 60 feet, the explorer reaches what may be termed the vestibule ol this grand work of nature, after which the floor becomes con)parativrly level. Upon looking back, towards the entrance. the beholder is struck with the singu- lar beauty and regularity of the mag- nificent arch, which is composed of solid liine. The cavity here is about 10 feet in width and 30 in height. Proceeding some distance, it becomes very narrow and so low, that it is ne- cessary to stoop much in order to ad- vance. Upon emerging from this narrow defile, the admirer of the works of nature, is presented with one of the most magnificent scenes which the fancy can imagine. He fiiids himself ushered into a vast room, the extent of which, from end to end; is more than 150 feet, and of very con- siderable width. The height of the roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50 or 60 feet, forming some of the finest arches that the eye ever beheld. The ceiling and walls of this apartment, which is called Sarah's saloon, are WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 449 covered with sparry incrustations lextremity of the cavern. This cham- which have been "formed by the jber which is called the Sylph's dress- drippings of the water from the roof In some places, they have the appear- ance of pendant icicles ; in other places they bear a strong resemblance toxhe folds of drapery, arid appear to hang in festoons which art can neither ri- val or imitate. In some places the sparry stalactites resemble the most ing-room, is about the size of the sa- loon, with a lofty ceiling of sparry concretions, — once clear as crystal — novv rendered dingy by the smoke. It has several outlets, too small to ad- mit the body of a man ; but it is pro- bable that if they were enlarged, they might lead to other rooms in this sub- bcautiful sculpture, at one point pre- terraneous abode, which it is possible senting the image of a magnificent |and even probable, may extend to tha pillar or colossal statue, at another I river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a the curved and wavy appearance of a narrow passage, which turns to the cataract in miniature. If a piece of right, called the labyrinth. After va- the spar be thrown into a crucible or Irious mazes and intricate windings even into a hot coal. fire, it fuses, and j under low arches, so contracted in becomes as transparent as glass. breadth as to admit only one person It is, however, to be regretted, that 'abreast, the winding ceases, and the the most beautiful specimens of the [explorer finds himself in a straight spar have been abstracted by the [passage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in numerous visiters; and that, the walls 'breadth, and 7 in height, and which, and roof of Sarah's saloon, which j without doubt, forms one of the most were once of the most glittering trans- ; beautiful, regular and symmetrical parency, have been blackened by the larches in the world. Issuing from smokeof the pine torches, which have; this passage the explorer finds him- been used in exploring it. Upon jself in the ball-room, which is decid- leaving the saloon, it becomes neces- edly the best room in the cave. The sary to ascend about 12 or 15 feet; length is 160 or 170 feet, and the perpendicular, which is done byjbreadth at least 30 feet. Here, too, meansof a ladder, at the top of which !as in the other rooms, the hands of is a small room which is evidently vandal visiters, have torn off the the highest and yet the closest apart- beautiful spar from the wall, thus ment in the cave, as the candles burn ; having robbed the cave of its glitter- less freely here, than in any other iing orn-iiments, and deprived posteri- part of the cavern. On speaking, or jty in a measure, of one of the most striking with the hand against the jmagnificent scenes that ever met the wall the sound is increased to an as- 'eye of man. The floor is of soft clay tonishing loudness. At the fartheriand remarkably level and smooth, extremity of this upper apartment is a | Here, before the invention of dandies, reservoir of water of a circular shape, tights,corsets,balloen sleeves, prunella about 5 feet in diameter and 4 in depth, slippers, large combs and leghorn called the Fairy's bath, and within aifiats, the beaux and belles of by -gone few feet of the bath, is a small basin days met, and held social parties, and called the Fairy's wash-bowl, — both (while "mmglmg in the giddy mazes formed in the solid rock and full ofiof the sprightly dance," the foot and water of the most limpid clearness. , hand kept time with the clarionet and After leaving this place, the passage violin; and the merry song, the wild forks. That passage which leads jmusic, the free jest, the witty retort straight forward, passea through 3om.e:and the hearty laugh, all telling of small rooms and narrow defiles, until jenjoyment, reached the remotest jt leaches a largp apartmeni, at the df-pths. of this spacious grotto, — while 57 4$« VVESTEKN VIRGIMA— SHENANDOAH. pleased echo caught the sound, andla fine stream running entirely thro' reverberating from grotto to grotto, jit called Passage creek, on which told the deities of the place, of the 1 are situated many springs oi pure mirth and innocent amusement which i water at various distances. were to be found in the ball-room ofi Mount Hope, P. O. 144 ms. from Allen's cave. | R- and 80 S. W. by W. of W. Even in these, our degenerate! Mount Jackson, P. O. 157 ms. days, the cave is still visited by hun- from R. and 113 W. of W. It con- dredsof persons who generally speak j tains 8 dwelling houses, I Presby- in terms of the highest praise of the terian house of public worship, 1 wonders which they have seen in this subterranean world. The ex- tent of this cavern has never been ascertained — but it is supposed to be about 1200 feet. common school, 1 mercantile store, 1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 smith shop, and 1 boot factory. The country around is a little broken, the soil gray and sandy, of ordinary quality, produc- Cedar Creek, P. O. 162 miles' ing Indian corn, wheat and oats tol- from R. and 83 from W lerably well. FoRTsMouTH, P. O, 147 ms. from! Strasburg, P, O. 153 ms. froutt R. and 83 W. of W. This village iR. and 89 W. of W,, situated in the is pleasantly situated in a narrow; northern part of the county, on the valley, and in the fork of the North North branch of the Shenandoah and South branches of the Sheuan- river, immediately on the main road doah river, surrounded on the south leadincr from Woodstock to Winches- and west by the Fort mountain. It contains several dwelling houses, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw- mill, 1 distillery, and various mechanics. ter, 12 ms. N. of the former and 18 S. of the latter. This is a healthy and thriving village, containing 78 dwelling houses, 3 houses of public- Population 30. There are in the im-| worship, (1 Presbyterian, I Lutheran,, mediate vicinity two houses of public' and 1 free for all denominations,); 3; worship, the one Baptist, and the oth- er free for all denominations. It is distant 25 ms. from Winchester and schools, including an academy, (a handsome building with a valuable lot of land attached, on which has 1 8 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth : been erected out of the income an derives its name from Powell's Fort,] excellent house as a residence for the at the mouth of which it is located, and which is a great natural curiosi- ty, — the valley bei:ng formed by the Massanutten mountain, springing up on the west side of the Shenandoah river, commencing between New Market and Staunton, running south west and north east until it reaches a short distant below New Market, — it principal.) There are also 3 mer- cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2 taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet makers, 1 turner, 4 blacksmith shops, I plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gun smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe fac- tories, and 4 cooper shops. Popular tion 470 persons; of whom 6 are then breaks off into two mountains, ! regular physicians. The inhabitants the one running down the North andlare principally Germans, of indus- the other down the South branch of the Shenandoah river. These two mountains form Powell's Fort, which receives its name from an individual who it is said was the first settler within the fort. This Fort, as it is trious and economical habits. New Market, P. V., delightfully situated in the great valley of Vir- ginia, between the Massanutten and North mountains, 120 ms. W. by S. of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R., in called, is thirty miles in length, with lat. 38° 36' 30" N. and long. 1° 37' WESTEJ?N VIIK.IMA— SHENANDOAH. 451 "W. from W. It is a central point botweiMi the towns of Winclioster and Staunton, beings 50 miles distant from either place. The main road leading from the counties of Pendle- ton and Hardy, eastward across Thornton's Gap in the dirci'tiou of Fredericksburg, intersects the great valley road at this place. The town was founded about the year 1784. Itj is at this time three-fourths of a mile] in length, containing above one hun-l dred dwelling houses, with a popu-j lation of 700 persons. The streets arc retnarkably level, straight and well laid out, bearing south 25 west, a direction nearly parallel with the Massanutten mountain and two miles distant from its base. There are 3 houses of public worship, viz. 1 Lu- theran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, 1| large and commodious brick acade-j my, in which is taught all the branches of liberal and polite educa- tion, 1 book and job printing office, 5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attor- ney, and 4 regular physicians. — , There is perhaps no town in the state! of the same size, where the mechani-j cal pursuits are earned on to a great- er extent than in this. There arcj here in active and extensive opera! tion — 1 manufactory of threshmgl machines, 6ic., 2 wheelwrights, 4' cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4| tanneries, 2 saddle and harness mak-l ing establishments, 2 chair factories, 4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hati factories, 1 silversmith and jeweller,! i coppersmith and tin plate worker, 2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths, ) lock-j smith, I eleymaker, 1 saddle tree j maker, 1 diaper weaver, and 2 potte- ries, at one of which stone ware of a! superior quality is manufactured.! There are also in the vicinity 2 forges j for the manufactory of pig metal into bar iron, both of which are at this time in active operation. The coun- try around abounds in iron ore of the best quality. The North fork of the Shenan doah river runs within a mile of the town on the western side; and is na- vigable at high water for boats car- rying one hundred barrels of flour to the Plain Mills 2^ miles above the town: but the navigation is some- what hazardous, as the river is pas- sable for boats of this burden only during a freshet. The Massanutten mountain on the east of the town presents a beautiful and unbroken view to the eye of an observer, free from any spurs, or secondary moun- tains, to obstruct his sight, lor many miles in extent, presenting upon the whole a spectacle highly grand and picturesque. There is a cascade on this mountain about 3^ miles from the to\vn, which as it appears not to be embraced in any written account of the State, deserves to be noticed— It presents the curious spectacle of a beautiful sheet ef water falling from the height of fifty feet perpendicular. The large table rock over which the water falls is so perfectly level and smooth, that the water falls in an en- tire and unbroken sheet of several yards in width, which it retains until it strikes the bottom, sufficiently far from the perpendicular for a person to pass conveniently between that and the sheet ef water, without dan- ger of getting wet. This falling sheet of water is so perfectly trans» parent, that it may be seen for several hundred yards, glistening thro' the thick surrounding woods, presenting a beautiful spectacle. Among the rocks of this country are the blue and grey limestone, slates, sand-stone and burr-stone. — The adjacent country i.s famed for its fertility, and is well adapted to the cul- ture of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and grass. No country can boast more of its healthy situation than this ; in short nothing seerhs to be wanting to render it among the most desira- ble sections of country in the State, but a facility of access to market, and whenever that is given, it may 458 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. be confidently predicted, that no part of the United States will present greater rewards to enteprise and in- dustry. Stony Cheek, or Shryock, P. O. 162 ITS. from R. and JOS S. W. of W.. situated on Stony creek, near the North Fork of Shenandoah. The creek empties into the rivt-r one mile E. of this place. It is distant 8 ms. S. S. W. of Woodstock, and 35 in a similar direction trom Win- chester, This village contains 17 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 house of public entertainment, 1 rifle manufactory, and 1 blacksmith shop. Population 130 persons; of whom I is a physician. The land is fertile, producing well all the ordi- nary staples, and the county. is thick- ly settled. Stoney creek is a bold stream, affording some excellent sitcsJ for manufactories. There are locat- ed on it, and within 2 miles of the village, at various distances, a consi- derable number of dwelling houses, 2 extensive manufacturing fiour mills, 2 grist mills, 7 saw mills, 1 well es- tablished fulling mill, and 2 wool carding machines, 1 still-house, 1 tannery, and 1 forge in active opera- tion, manufacturing pig metal into bar iron, and 1 furnace called Co- lumbia, with about 200 persons de-' pendant on it for support. WOODSTOCK, P. V. and scat of justice, 156 ms. from R. and 100 S. W. of W. in lat. 38° 51' N. and long. 1° 34' W. of W. C, situated on the main valley road 32 ms. S. S. W. of Winchester and about 1 mile W. of the North Fork of the She- nandoah river. It contains besides the usual county buildings, 1 18 dwel- ling houses, 3 houses of public wor- ship, (1 Lutheran, 1 Methodist and 1 German Reformed,) 1 Masonic Hall, 1 handsome brick academy, 3 other schools, and 2 sabbath schools, 1 printing office from which a weekly paper is issued, 5 mercantile store&, 2 taverns, 3 tan yards, 4 saddlers, 2 hatters, 5 boot and shoe factories, 5 house joiners and carpenters, 3 vt^heelwrights and chair makers, 4 tailors, 2 smith shops, 1 earthen and 1 stone ware manufactory, 1 watch maker and silver smith, 1 wagoii maker, 1 tm plate worker, 2 saddle- tree makers, 2 saddle-tree platers, 2 bricklayers and masons, and 2 plas- terers. Population 950 persons: of whom 3 are resident attorneys, and 4 are ministers and 3 regular physi- cians. County Courts are held on the Monday before the 2d Tuesday in every month; — Quarterly in March, May, August and November. Judge Smith holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on the 9//; of April and Septe^n- ber SMYTH. Smyth was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a portion of Washington and Wythe. It is bounded W. by Clinch moun- tain separating it from Russell, — N. W. and N. by the same mountain, separating it from Tazewell, — N. E. and E. by Wythe, — and by the Iron mountain separating it from Grayson S. E. and S. It is located on the head waters of Holston river. The eastern line dividing Smyth and Wythe crosses within fifty yards of the head spring. The count}--" is divi- ded into three valleys, — the North, South and Middle Forks of "the Hol- ston running parallel w-ith the difl^erent valleys. The North Fork rises between Clinch and Walker's mountains, pursues a northerly course some WESTERN VTKC;iN[A— SMYTH. 453 distance, and then winds to the west. Tiie mountains are lofty, — the bot- tom lands are rich and productive. On this fork is found gj-psum of the best quality, and sufficient in quantity to supply the whole western coun- try. In that neighborhood is situated the salt works belonging to Gen'l Preston. These works, and King's in Washington county, are denomi- nated Sa/ii-iUe, — they are within 40 feet of each other. The place has risen up in consequence of the salt works. The .cptinty line sepai'ating Smyth and Washington counties runs between them. (For further particulars sec Saltviile in this county.) An experiment lately made on the water of Preston's works was attended with complete success, — twenty bushels full produced a deposite of five bushels of salt, which weighed one hundred and fifty-one pounds, shewing it to be in proportion of one-fourth to the water which contains it. it is supposed that no other water ap- proaches this strength, and it is quite free from the slightest quantity of bittern or other foreign matter. From this supply five hundred biishels of gait may be manufactured in twenty-four hours. Qn the middle fork of the Holston are situated the Chilhoicce S'ulphur Bpruig>\ within or.- mile of the great road. They stand as high for llie medicinal qualities of their waters as any spring in A'^irginia. There are also in the same vicinity several chalybeate springs. The productions are wheat, rye, Indian corn, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, hemp, fiax, and every species of the vine; being one of the best grape counties in Vir- ginia. This county is well timbered with the best of white and black oak, buckeye, poplar, hickory, black walnut, lynn, pine, sassafras, dog wood, birch, beech, and the spice wood tree. Along the branches are elder of difierent qualities, spruce pine, and the hemlock tree. It also abounds with the maple or sugar tree. This tree is more valuable than all others ; if it is notched in the month of March, and bored with a small auger or gimblet some distance below the notch and a tube placed in, one tree will afford in a season from 30 to 60 gallons of sweet water, which when boile.d will always produce from 3 to 4 pounds of good sugar, besides the m.olasses, which is superior to any other. The tops, of these' itccs are large, taper- ing something lik'e a sugar loaf, the bark is rough and body straight, some. of them are of a light color, others black. The latter always ])roduce the sweetest water. Some of these maple trees grow to an enormoiis size. The wood is precious, and when cut and corded, one tree, will make from 6 to 7 cords. The next in size is the j'-ellow pojiktr, which exceeds in growth any timber in the United States. It is no uncommon thing to find this timber from 3 to 4 feet and upwards in diameter, and the trunks 44 feet in height before a limb .shoots. The white oalc and other timber is in proportion. There are in this county one cotton manufactory, (at the court house,) 3 iron works, 14 tan yards, 16 grist mills, 14 houses of public worship, (5 Methodist, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Baptists, 3 free for all denominations, and I Lutheran,) and 8 taverns or houses of public entertainment. The eleva- tion of Davis's town, situated 2 miles from the east line of the county, and on Pleasant Hill, is 200 feet above James River at Lynchburg. Pojnila- tion not taken at the last census, the county having been since created, but supposed to be between 6 and 7000, of which there are 100 free per- sons of color, and 1400 slaves. It belongs. to the fourteenth judicial cir- cuit and eigth district. Tax paid in 1833, $941 .57 — in 1834 on land- $572 04—470 slaves, $117 50—2675 horses. Si 60 50—20 sluds, $123 50 454 WESTERN VinOTNrA— SMYTH. — 5 coaches, $10 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $989 04. No report of school commissioners for 1832. Expended in educating poor children in 1833, $220 2G. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. MARION P. V. and county seal, was located two years since. The im- provements have rapid) V progressed. A handsome court house, clerk's of- fice, and jail, have been erected, 10 or 12 neat dwelling houses have been completed and several others are in progress of erection, 2 mercantile stores have been established, and 2 others are about going into operation. One cotton manufactory on a small scale, and various mechanical pur- suits are carried on : the principal of which are bricklaying, stone ma- sonry, house carpentry, tailoring, saddlery, and blacksmithing. Popu- lation about 100 persons; of whom 3 are resident attorneys, and 2 regu- lar physicians. County Courts are held on the Thursday after the third Monday in ■/every month; Quarterly in Febru- ary, May, July and Octohcr. Judge Estill holds his Circuit Superior Court of Law and Chance- ry on th'^" Monday after the fourth jSlovAaii in AprU and September. Pleasant Hill, P. O. 269 ms. from R. and 341 S. W. by W. of W. Saltville, p. O. This settle- ment derives its name from the justlj' celebrated Saltworks of Pre.ston and King. Preston's well being located in Smyth, and King's in Washing- ton county. They are not more than forty feet apart, the line dividing the two comities running between the wells. The following topograjihical, geological and general remarks res pecting them, and the surrounding country, are taken from an article published in the Abingdon Republi- can. "The place called Saltville, is situ ated in a narrow plain of about 700 acres of land, lietween the Rich Val- ley and the North Fork of the Hol- .ston, having its greatest length from 'he northeast to the southwest, bound- ed on the eastern side by conical peaks and ridges which are appen- dages of W^alker's mountain: and on the western side by conical peaks and highland intervening between it and tlic North fork of the Holston ri- ver, which washes their bases for many miles. This branch of the Hclston is declared a pub-ic highway, but has many obstructions, which it is be- lieved could be removed by expend- ture of $6,000, so as to be suitable for batteaux and flat bcnits, from Saltville, to its mouth at Kingsport, a distance of 65 miles by water. "The present point of manufactur- ing salt is on the bank of the river, to which for convenience of timber ind fuel the water is conveyed, about two miles, in a northwardly course, n wooden tubes. On the opposite bank of the river lies Little moun- tain, an apjjendage of Clinch moim- tain, which is parallel and continuous with that mountain for hundreds of miles, and between which, lies a nar- row stoney valley, commonly called the Poor Valley. The numerous streams having- iheir source in the Clinch mountain, pass through thf» breaks of Little mountain into the North Fork', along its course. To the northw'est of Clinch mountain, and parallel with it, lie Copper Ridge, Powel's mountain, Cumberland moun- tains, and the Log mountains, having narrow valleys; and the rivers Clinch, Powefs and Cumberland, and their waters, interspersing, beautifying and enriching, these inviting, but for the present, neglected regions. Beyond Log mountains and the adjacent ridires in Kentucky, lip streams WESTEliN \ IRUINJA— SMY'IU emptying into the Ohio; on one of which is the Goose Croek Salt Manu- factory, about 150 miles from Salt- ville. "Viewing the country from Salt- ville, towards the south of Walker's mountain, fine valleys and fertile ridges are passed before you reach the middle and south fork of Holston river, and thence towards the south- west; passing many tributaries, you cross the Watauga, French Broad, Nolachucky, and the hundred streams rising in this mountain district, and winding their way westward, to form ihe broad and beautiful Tennessee river; whilst those running from the same quarter caslwardly, compose the bold and restless waters of the Great Kanawha, — all adding utility and beauty ; either to the valleys bordering on the large rivers, or the irregular but level depressions called coves, hemmed in all around except a sino'le pass way; which sometimes exhibits a cataract in its little stream. "East of tlie New River waters, the Alleghany mountain directs the streams to the Atlantic, and at some points you might stand with one foot in the waters of the Atlantic, the other in those which wend their weary way to the hot Mexican gulnh, and the great mart for the efiective indus- try of the millions of people which the valley of the Mississippi, is invit- ing from other extremes to those parts. Standing at such a point, your admira- tion would be excited, that amidst such a. boundless viev/ of masses beyond masses, of high parallel and irregu- lar mountains, the rivers should all find their way to their destinations, wirhout falls or other impediments to navigation, which thtj skill and ener- gies of man, at trifling expense, may not remove; thus addinjj viijor to the giant heart, the Estuary of our thou- sand rivers, which is to receive, com- mercially cherish and return, as it were, the vitalized fluids to all the extremities. With amazement still heightened, Avould you bi'hold from the great White Top, (the neutral ground of North Carolina, Virginia and Teiuiessee,) the Spinal Allegha- ny and the Bine Ridge, with its gra- nite clifi's and basaltic rocks, running diagonally athwart each other, and as if in the formative day of their crea- tion, each of these huge columns of uplifted matter had been shot forward from the north and northeast; and neither having the advantage of force over the other, a contest terrible com- menced, in which the champions botli discomfitted, glanced; each tak- ing its own path southwardly, leaving their cast awa\' remnants piled fear- fully "Ossa upon Pelion, and Peli(jn. upon Ossa," rolling confusedly into thousands of rude shapes. But in- this field of old Avarring elements are every where, as you would also per-- ccive, evidences presented, that the prin:jiple of order has been passing and nestling, has changed and given: new capacities; striking the Avaste "rocks with the rod," millions o9 springs of purest water gushed forth;' the uptorn hills became verdant, anri all the glories of redundant vegetal- tion do more than honor to the silent' mountains; thousands of choicest animals browse and revel on the spon- taneous herbage; and man invitetV- last, has made his home in these high-: places ; and being far removed from the great commercial haunts of luxu-- ry and vice, hope m.ay long rest in security, that here at least, some' .shaie-— a large share of health, hap- piness, independence and freedom- will be enjoyed ? Why do the in- habitants of these regions, so bounte- ously fitted for tlieir use, desert thmv for Eldorado's in the great and labor- ing and slave holding and money grasping west? Too many have quit, have left their mountains, — but the day of return is commencing in our favor; it was not so with those who listened to the song of William lob WESTERN V LRG 1 N 1 A—SMYTH. Tell; for deeds of .iirnis \vhen-ueces-|high, like clilTs of rock. The coun- sity calls; or for hearth-talks .'in --pip- 1 ties of Green, Washington, Sulli van, ing times of peace,' there is no 'place iGampbeJ], Claiborne, Anderson, like a. home in the mountains and in Knox, Rhea, Hamilton in Tennessee, the \:;illeys.'. You- haveiio,' doubt Harlan, Ky., Ash, Buncomb, Ruth- seen the surprise of strangers on theierford and other -counties of North highway, when reaching in somei Carolina, and Monroe, Giles, Mont- parts of this country (as Bark's gar den with its ten thousand eleA'ated level acres) the (irs.t view of valleys gomery, Floyd, Grayson, Preston, Wythe and other counties in - Vir- ginia abound in exluuistless q-uanti- bdow, in foggy mornings; whilst .on | ties of iron, and many of those. coun- the mountain the sun is brilliantly ties have quarries of various soits of beaming; the stranger's eye will be i stone coal and innumerable seats for arrested with what he supposes is a broad and lengthened lake below. The deception is perfect, the very waves are seen rolling and tempest tossed, nor will the appearance of islands and of trees breakins' through water power. "In Grayson and Wythe are large bodies . of rich copper ore, not- yet fully tested, and in the latter county, lead ore of the best quality, worked by Col. James White and Alexander the mist as it. evaporates, nor. the | Pierce , — what amount of lead could sounds of ploughmen, the screaking! be made is unknown, as the ore. bank of iron works, or the monotonous i seems inexhaustible, and coal in beat of the forge hammer, issuing abundance, as near as. - Graham's from the gulph below (till then un-j forge and iron furnace. The capaci- heard of,) dispel the optical illusion, ty of the soil to produce different — the rolling mist must btj disper-.; sorts of timber after the first is. cut sed before he can believe the decep- off is very remarkable in this coun- tion. try — those acquainted with the soil "Let the James River improve- ai^d first groAvth of timber can fore- ments have an arm extended towards the Tennessee, and the latter be im- proved with that spirit- whieh has characterized Tennessee for the last twelve months: or let a Macadam road be constructed through the naui- ral depression of all the mountains, from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, and it requires only the slightest knowledge of things, to be convinced, that in internal resources no part of the union can vie with this, especially in minerals. Preston's salt-works are in Smyth county, and King's in Washington, and the same counties abound in immense banks of iron ore. In the adjoining county of Car- ter, are above twenty iron making es- tablishments now in operation, some of which are small bloomeries, and in some places solid masses of ore tell what will be the se<'ond and third growth on land once culti\ated or on new land. ti- - "Preston's Saltville land contains a description of millstones, •e'Ssily quarried, which are equal to the.-best French burr stones for flourimills; and at A'arious points in the vicinity, and in Russell county a-re quarries of varrous- marbles. In the valleys, buried in the soil,-are innumerable rounded sandstone rocks, some of which are flinty, others of- marly in- gredients, and many such teose stones occupy the shoal'y beds of the streams; but the channels bf all streams are -chiefly bedded by lime- stone, mica, sandstone, and slaty- for- mations, whose- lamella or divis.ion3 are seldom horizontal, until yo-ii ar- rive -at the level of the great v\-<»stern containing seventy-five per cent of river.=i-. '"You may here find ledges metal, are exposed tliirtyor forty feet {of rocli? extending hundred? of miles WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. 457 in a perpendicular posture, occasion- The lead, iron and salt minerals ^r^ ally broken where ridges transverse found in, or bedded upon limestone, each other; but in the general these slate and other rocks of the transi- ledges are either massive and of wav- tion kind, while stone coal and gyp- ing configuration and striated irregu- sum and sandstone are evidently all larly, or are inclined at angles whose of a much later fcrmaton, as they do medium may be 45 degrees of the not run under, but stop short, on horizon, and it would seem, that they reaching masses of primitive and had perpetually sought to reach that transition rocks The great upper angle, notwithstanding such promi- body of the Clinch and Cumberland nent failures so to do. The declin- mountains, and their appending ing direction is continuous through the body of the hills and ridges generally, and the upper plane is facing the south, as far as parallelism with the general course of the ridges will permit; and in consequence of this southern exposure of the planes of the rocks in all the mountains west of the Alleghany to the verge of those mountains east of the Mis- sissippi, chemical nature has not the same A'ariety of surface to work upon, that it has where the upward direc- chains are chiefly formed of strata and irregular masses of sandstone, which is undergoing great changes, decomposing in soine parts and in- creasing and hardening in others ; much of the limestone composing the basis of these mountains is a very coarse and impure carbonate. The multitude of sulphur and chalybeate, hot and cold springs, and their vari- ous medicinal qualities in Bath, Mon- roe, Buncomb and other places that deserve to have celebrity for their tion of the rocks expose their edges,! waters, exhibit astonishing chemical on the northwardly side of the ridges, j changes yet going on far below the and as might be expected, the south- 1 earth's surface. After passing west- ern faces are comparatively barren, [wardly, beyond the verge of these whilst the opposite side is rich and broken ranges, you perceive great productive; and such difTerences are observable even on the south side, where deep ravines expose the broken ends of rocks one side, and their rather plane surface on the other. This conformation holds immense quantities of water and pours it forth even on the pinnacles of the highest hills, decomposing the ground by winter freezes and summer drought uniformity and order in the confor- mations of rocks and soils. The rivers and creeks are based with gccd Ijmfeetone, lammellated horizontally, and having fissures at unequal dis- tances, extending perpendicularly to gryat depths. Commencing at the surface, there will be found rich, loamy soils, and clays, often mixed with gravel or sandstone to the depth and adding fertility even to the rocks; of six or ten feet, then limestone a the timber growing to enormous' described, next a white coarse lime- sizes, by passing its roots into the in-j stone four to eight feet, in one, two. terstices of rocks. The region of or three strata, next limestone of North Carolina and Tennessee, in thicker laj'^ers, sometimes fifty feet; then a layer of gray, blue, or black liin*, three to six feet ; next blue brit- tied limestone all fissured and 1am- which gold is found, about 60 to 100 miles from Saltville, borders on the primitive granite and basaltic walls that rise under the Blue Ridge, and mellar, then slate of a dark brittle are rarely exposed on its western' kind, horizontal and of considerable face; and in Virginia, the copper j depth, containing brilliant yellow, mines of Grayson and Wythe are notjoval lumps of sulphur and iron, be- remote from similar constructions, low which are lav^^r'^ '^f hard, flintr 58 458 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SMYTH. dark rocks, with occasional layers of slate. At places like these, and other formations of a standard kind, those! who would undertake to classify rocks into different ages, might form plausible theories which would 'van- ish into thin air' when tested by the mixed up productions of this moun- tainous country. Here rude shapes of simple organization are sometimes seen in the transition, or what little agrees with the secondary limestone of the west. "Saltville was the property of, General AVilliam Campbell, the hero of Kings' mountain, and after hisi decease his only child Sarah, mar- ried General Francis Preston, who rented the well and salt marsh to Wm. King, an enterprising young Irishman, who conducted the busi- ness profitably, returned to Ireland for his father and brothers and sifters, and in a few years in partnership with the late Joiiah Nichol of Nash- ville, and other worthy mercantile partners, on whom fortune has al- ways smiled, had amassed very hand- some profits. Wm. King apprised General Preston and lady, that a tract of land adjoining theirs was for sale, and advised ther^i to purchase, as salt-wa.ter could be procured upon it, and upon their declining, he pur- chased it for about $2,000. King and Nichol then dug a twelve foot square well, cribbing it with timber, and paying the Rev. Mr. Col- ley about $2,000 for its expenses, un- til the opening was about two hun-| dred feet in depth. King had mark- ed out the spot and declared he would go on until water was found, and Nichol withdrawing from the con- cern, on digging twelve feet deeper, the well filled to within forty feet of the surface of the earth with salt water, of which thirty-two gallons would make, on drying tlie salt, a measured bushel -of 50 lbs. weight. This was on the 6th of April, 1797,' and the quantity of water being in- I exhaustible, by any use made of it, salt was reduced from $5 to $1 50 cts. per bushel ; and a more liberal rent was given General Preston of S9,00t) per annum for his v^'ell, which then ceased to be worked ; and the parties continued on the most friend- ly term.s towards each others' wel- fare. William King having in view to encourage every branch of indus- try, and calculating that thereby im- mense wealth would flow to himself, enlarged his mercantile pursuits, dealt with great liberality, and be- coming very popular, his wealth so increased, that at his death, the 13th October, 1808, his personal estate was estimated at above one million dollars. "Preston's and King's works were then conducted by bis widow, now Mrs. F. Smitl), James King and- Wm. Trigg, as devisees of a life estate; and since by Col. Jas. White; at present by Wm. King & Co.; Mr. King being the only son living of James King and devisee of the es- tate in remainder from his uncle Wm. Kmg, vi^ho died without chil- dren. Gen. Preston's and King's works in the first lease to Col. White were rented at $30,000 each per an- num, but have not been so productive of late years as is understood. "During the yea? 1832, Gen. Pres- ton not being satisfied with the good- ness of his well, employed Mr. An- thony, an ingenious mechanic and ■partner of Dubrough's in a patent plan of boring, to sink cast iron tubes of five inch bore 218 feet or the depth necessary, where was found a supply of salt-water, sufficient for 400 iJushels of salt daily, the water being stronger than any known, 22 to 24 gallons producing 50 lbs. salt. "The space in which good salt- water can be procured in large quan- tities is very small — in the vicinity of Saltville has been expended above ^40,000 in fruitless digging and bor- ing by the owners of land. Pres- WESTERN VIRGINI A— SM YT H. 459 ton's new tubed well is only 40 yards from King's, and an experiment on King's land, within 40 feet of the old well made last month, produced no water at the depth of 270 feet, though the borings were for many feet through the salt rock, and partly through gypsum, blue and red clay and half formed sandstone. — The formation below the depth of 200 feet, in which salt-water is found, seems to be on a slaty basis, at an in- clination of about 15 degrees facing the south east, and in King's old well, whence has been drawn water for 40,000 bushels of salt in the last 60 days, there are large irregular columns of plaster or gypsum, and a plaster roof supporting the ground above, the interior clay for 40 or iriore feet in some directions having been washed away. Into these open- ings near 100 cords of wood were thrown, but all disappeared. From all the borings and the most careful observation, it is evident, at this place, that both the sand-stone and plaster are above, and of more recent forma- tion than the muriate of soda. "The crater-like sides of the tran- sition rocks exposed around Salt vi lie, at some points, into which the plaster never intrudes, has given rise to a conjecture, that at some ancient peri- od, the plane on which stands Salt- ville, was as high as the adjacent hills; and that by a dissolution of the saline substratum which the river (being lower) may have received, the upper earth gave way, throwing the rocks into their present disjointed state, and the surface of all which has been levelled by the washings from the hills, and by the impercep- tible workings of time; and this con- jecture would seem to be supported by the numerous bones and teeth of the Mastodon and other animals found at any depth yet approached. "The surface of the saltAvater be- ing some thirty feet higher than the river water, has suggested to Mr. Anthony the use of a syphon, half a mile in length to draw the water from the well, without a force pump ; and the facility of conveying the water to wood or more convenient points of navigation, is now clearly tested by its transfer in tubes two miles. Salt at the works is now reduced to two cents per pound, which will, no doubt, cause more economy to be used in its manufacture and transpor- tation ; so far, there Appears, how- ever, to have been no advantage taken of the great evaporating improve- ments used at the salines in New York, or the sugar factories of the South. At Sallville, the furnaces are trenches dug in the earth, the kettles several inches thick— :-the fur- nace doors large and open, and placed under open sheds ; and in some in- stances streams of fresh water sweep- ing from the hills issue out of the furnace flues; but doubtless the pre- sent proprietors will make the neces- sary improvements. The salt made is free from all impurity, its chrys- tals are large by slow, and fine by rapid evaporation ; and white and brilliant, and when thrown from the basket, soon becomes as dry as corn meal; never deliquescing or giving off any water, even in the wettest weather. No settling or clarifying process is necessary, the water being a clear semi-transparent, somev.'hat whitish fluid, which after being re- leased from its great pressure in the deep parts of the well, seems incapa- ble of holding in solution, the former quantity of saline material. The slight excess of muriatic acid over the soda is united in the boiling with some tree gypsum, and precipitated to the bottom, where attaching itselt to the mettle and becoming heated, additions of salt are constantly made, till it endangers breaking the kettle, and is very difficult (once weekly) to separate from the iron by pick-axes. In the whole process of manufactur- ing this water, no trace ot iodine oi 460 WESTERN VIRGINIA— TAZEWELL. bittern water is to be found — and no species of settling or clarifying is pecessary, the salt being deposited as soon as milk warm, is three or four times daily ladled out of kettles of 96 gallons each. At present, mea- dow lands, pasture and farming to the extent of 2,.500 acres appears to be in use; a saw mill, two grist mills and about 100 persons, and as many horses, compose the force of the place; but as the market is limit- ed, and not more than four cords of wood are necessary to make 100 bushels of salt, the apparatus of the place is unnecessarily large and wasteful. "The gypsum-beds on the Saltville lands are perhaps the most conven- ient and abundant in the world, be- ing only five to ten feet from the sur- face of the earth and of the very best quality. Hundreds of boats and wagons could be usefully employed m its transportation, as the whole lands of this interior country are ad- mirably adapted to its use." "There are few places in the world which can vie with Saltville in beau- ty and novelty of scenery. The ex- tended meadows, — rich ridges — high conical peaks, — mountain coves, — clear springs, and the remarkable verdure covering the soil — set off to great advantage the lofty Clinch mountain. The Chilhoway springs are in the vicinity, and often the summer visiters add new interest." Seven Mile Ford, P. O. 362 ms. S. W. by W. of W., and 287 from R. TAZEWELL. Tazewell was created by act of Assembly in 1799, and formed out of portions of Russell and Wythe counties. It is bounded N. by Tug Fork of Sandy river, separating it from Logan, — N. E. by Giles, — E. and S. E. by Walker's mountain, separating it from Wythe, — S. by Clinch mountain, separating it from Smyth, — S. W. by Russell, — and W. by Floyd county. Kentucky. Its mean length is 66| miles, mean breadth lOf; and area 1,305 square miles: — Exte^nding inlat. from 36° 54' to 37° 32' N. and in long, from 4° to 5° 12' W. of W. C. It is situated immediately within the vicinity of the sources of Clinch and Great Sandy rivers. T^e Clinch takes its rise seven miles N. E. of JefTersonsville, and pursues a course nearly W- From the eastern section of the county, the great Kanawha receives many tributary branches; the principal of which are the Blue Stone and Wolfe creeks. These have their sources within a few miles of JefTersonsville, and after some inconsiderable meanderings assume a N. E. direction. This county is traversed by several ranges of mountains, some of which rise to an immense height; the chief of which are the Clinch, Rich, East River, and Paintlick. Their general course is a little S. of W. Between some of these mountains are interspersed beautiful valleys, of a black, deep and rich soil, surprisingly fertile, and perhaps inferior to no county in the state for grass, which thickly covers every cultivated portion to the" very tops of the mountains. Ten miles N. E. is' Abb's valley a delightful vale.— Situ- ated at its entrance is the Stonefort, a large circular wall of stone, bearing on its image the stamp of great antiquity, from the ages of the trees on it, ■ and various other data. 'The modern savages that were first found in pos- session of this county appear totally ignorant, not only of this ancient cas- tle, but of other relics of antiquity in different parts of this valley. Here WESTERN A^mOINIA— TAZEW ELL. 40^ areslso deposited in lonely caverns, human skeletons of both sexes, and of various ages preserving in their composition an outline of those general features that characterise the Indian race. When brought into contact with the external air, they quickly moulder into dust. Five miles S. W. of Jef- fersonsville is a broken continuation of Rich mountain, termed Morris's Nob, a noted object of curiosity. Near its S. W. extremity, and 12 miles from the county seat, is the Maiden Spring Cove, a flourishing settlement, watered by the Maiden Spring, a S. E. branch of Clinch river. On the summit of Rich mountain, in view, and one and a hall miles S. is a pre- cipitous ledge of rocks, of .stupendous height, called the Peak — command- ing {I magnificent view of the surrounding country for 20 or 30 miles. From this, some 4 or 5 miles a little S. of E. may be seen on the top of Clinch mountain (immediately before it divides to form Burk's Garden) a rornantic assemblage of huge rocks, thrown together by the hand of nature, in the wildest confu.sion, clothed with a variety of perennial growth and matted with in:ipenetrab!e thickets of laurel; while far beneath are formed between their interstices, horrible caverns, and subterraneous recesses, the retreat of numerous wild beasts, that frequent the surrounding wilderness, hence its name of Bear Town. On this spot flourishes extensive groves of balsam copavia, a variety of copaifera officinalis and other strange vegeta- ble growth not found elsewhere in this region of country. Inexhaustible quarries of limestone rock, extending in a series of vertical strata from N. E. to S. W. are found in many parts of the county. Stretch- ing across the northern boundary are extensive beds of stone coal of excel- lent quality. , . The principle staples are cattle, horses, hogs, feathers, tow and flax-linen, beeswax, genseng, seneca, snakeroot, serpentaria, &c. &c. Compared with the elevation of the water in Great Kanawha, at the influx of the Greenbrier, ascertained to be 1,333 teet, the lowest elevation that can be given to the central mountain valleys of this count)^ must be 1,500 feetjr-; and the mean relative height of the arable soil of the county, at the lowest estimate 1,200 feet. Population in 1830, 5,749. It belongs to the fifteenth- judicial circuit and eighth district. Taxes paid stale government in 1833, $686 35 — iiijj' 1834, on lots, $14 88— on land, 313 11— 42G slaves, $106 50—2851 horses, $171 06—14 studs, $117 00—5 carryalls, $5 00— Total, $727 55. No report of school commissiouer for 1832. Expended in educating poor children in 1833, $184 23. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Blue Stone, P. O. 279 ms. S. W. led. It is msulated by Clinch moun- ofR. and 337 S.W.ofW. —Situated ou! tain, except a narrow pass through Blue Stone river, in the southeru part] which its waters, by uniting into one of the county. i stream, are discharged into Wolf Burk's Garden, P. O. 274 ms.!creek, — its form is somewhat oval, W. of R. and 349 from W. — Situat-! 1 1 miles long and 5 wide, a beautiful ed 10 ms. E. of Jefl^ersonsville.i and perfect level, and naturally very Burk's Garden is one of the most re- 1 fertile. The settlement contains 62 markable spots in Western Virginia, 1 families, amounting to 450 souls, but being out of the track of the tou-' There are 1 house^f public. worship,. - rists, it has not hitherto been deserib- 'free for all denominations. 1 exten- 462 WESTERN VIRGINIA— TYLER sive manufacturing flour mill, 2 tan-f yards, and various mechanics. It is well timbered with sugar maple, cher- ry and white oak. The under growth consists of Crab apple and hawthorn. JEFFERSONVILLE, P. T. and eoitnty seat, 352 ms. S. W. by W. of Washington,— 290 a little S. of W. from Richmond, — and 30 ms. N. W. by W. of Evansham in Wythe coun- ty;— lat. 37" 05' N. and long. 4° 32' W. of W. C. — Situated on the south side of Clinch river, one mile from its bank, and near the base of the Rich mountain. Besides the ordina- ry county buildings, it contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 house of public Avorship, free for all denominations, 1 common school, 4 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 tan^'ard, 1 saddler, 6 joiners, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 blacksmith, 2 hatters, 1 painter and 1 grist mill — and a manufacturing flour mill is situated a mile to the north of the village. Population 150 persons; of whom 2 are attornies, and 2 regu- lar physicians. County Courts are held on the 3i Monday in every month ; — Quarter- ly in April, June, August, and No- vember. Circuit Superior Courts of La-w- and Chancery are held on the 22(Z of April and 2od of September, by Judge Estill. Four miles N. W. of this village are situated CeciVs Mineral Springs, which bid fair to rival any mineral waters that have yet been discovered in the western country. TYLER. Tyter was created by Act of Assembly in the year 1814, and formed jfrom a portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by Marshall,- — N. E. ^y Greene co. of Pa., and Monongalia of Va. — E. and S. E. by Harri- son, — S. and S. W. by Wood, — and W. by the Ohio river, separating it from Washington county, Ohio, — and N. W. by the same river separating |t from JVfonroe county. Its mean length is 27^^ miles — mean breadth 23 ; ^and area 855 sq. miles; — extending in lat. from 39° 13' to 39° 42' and in long, from 3° 25' to 4° 12' W. of W. C. This county declines to the ■:\v>est towards the Ohio, and is drained by Middle Island and Fishing creeks, both running diagonally through the county and emptying into the Ohio. The surface is exceedingly hilly and broken, but the soil is generally of excellent quality. Population in 1820, 2,314,-1830, 4,104. It belongs to the twentieth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax — no returns. Ex- pended in educating poor children in 1832, $259 46— in 1833, $309 23. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c. Centrevillk, — situated on the west bank of Middle Island Creek, 7 ms. E. of Middlebourn, and 16 from Sistersville. It contains 15 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, and several mechanics. Fishing Creek, P.O. 330 ms. from R. and 266 N. W- by W. of W. This P. O. is situated on the head waters of the creek of the same name. which is a small stream rising in Tyler, flowing nearly N. W. in a winding course, and Avhich about 50 ms. from its source empties into the Ohio about 39 ms. below Wheeling. Grape Island, P. O. 316 ms. from R, and 289 W. of W. Ingram's Mills, P. O. 313 ms. from R. and 279 from W. AUDIiLEBOURN, P, V and WESTERN VIRGINIA— VVASillNCiTON. 463 scat of justice, 307 ms. from R. and 273 W. of W. in lat. 39° 32' N. and lonn^. 3° 55' W. of W., situated on Middle Island creek, 45 ms. S. W. of Wheeling. It contains besides the ordinary county buildings, 25 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house of worship, I common school, 2 mer- cantile stores, 2 taverns, 1 manufac- turing flour mill, 1 tan yard, and 1 saddler. The principal mechanics are cabinet makers, house-joiners, and blacksmiths. In the neighborhood of this place on Middle Island creek, there is an excellent site for a manu- factory. The stream is large, and after making a bend, five miles in ex- tent, it returns to within 00 feet of the same bed, — making a fall at the nearest point of approximation of 12 or 15 feet. It is thought that there is an abundance of iron ore and stone coal contiguous to this site. Middle Island creek is one of the principal streams watering this county, — it is about 200 miles in length, running a course east and west through a fer- tile valley, and emptying into the Ohio river. Population 160 persons; of whom 1 is a resident attorney, and two are regular physicians. Co-uniy Courts are held on the 2(1 \Motiday in every month; Quarterly in March, June, August and Noccm- ber. JuDGF Fry holds his Circuit Su- perior Courts of Law and Chancery on tlie24//t of April and September. Pine Grove, P. O. 327 ms. from R. and 247 W. of W. SisTERsviLLE, P. O. 320 ms. from R. and 274 N. W. of W. This vil- lageis pleasantly situated on the south bank ot Ohio river, 50 ms. N. W. by W. of Clarksburg in Harrison Co., in a remarkably healthy neighbor- hood, commanding a fine view of the river; and possessing one of the best landings for steamboats and other craft on the Ohio. It contains about 30 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns, a school house, t lanyard, and various mechanics. — Population about 200 persons; of whom 1 is a regular physician. This town was laid out in 1814 by com- missioners appointed by the Legisla- ture, as the county seat of Tyler; but by a petition presented from the in- habitants at the session of ' 1 5 and ' 1-6,' the Legislature was induced to re- move the seat of justice to Middle- bourne, 9 ms. nearly east from this- place. WASHINGTON. WASHrNGTON was created by Act of Assembly in 1777, and formed from a portion of the now extinct county of Fincaslle. It is bounded N. by Clinch mountain, separating it irom Russell, — E. by Smyth, — S. E. by Grayson, — S. by Carter county of Tennessee, — S. W. by Sullivan county of the same state, — and W. by Scott. Mean length (including Smyth) 41 miles, — mean breadth 18f; and area 754 square miles. — We have no means of ascertaming its precise extent since the severance of Smyth ; but an approximation may be made by reference to that county. It extends in laf. from 36° 35' to 36-^ 52' N. and in long, from 4° 34' to 5° 19' W. of W. C. This county occupies part o[ the valley between the Blue Ridge and Clinch mountains, and is watered by the North, Middle, and South Forks of llolston, which rise in Wythe and flow through this county, di- viding it into three fertile valleys. But Washington is not less celebrated for its valuable minerals, than its fertile soil, excellent pasturage, and de- lightful climate. The gypsum found in this county in great quantities, is 464 WESTERN VIRGINIA— WASHINGTON. said to be equal, if not superior to that of Nova Scotia, and is now being extensively applied to the same purposes by the farmers of Western Vir- ginia and Tennessee. A full account of its valuable salt works and other minerals has however already been given in connexion with Smyth coun- ty, — especially in the article on Saltville, — which village is divided by the line which separates the two counties. Population in 1820, 12,444, — 1830, 15,614, — both of which numera- tions wefe taken before the severance of Smyth. It belongs to the fifteenth judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1834 on lot.s, $195 25 — land, $1,131 96—1122 slaves, $280 50—5364 horses, $321 84—39 studs, $226 00—33 coaches. $94 50—31 carryalls, $31 00—6 gigs, $4 50. Total, $2286 10. The poor children in this county are educated on the district system, and we have no means at present of of ascertaining the exact amount. TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, mark its boundary was set in Jones's Point, the uppermost cape of Hunting: creek, on the 15th of April, 1791, in presence of a large concourse of spectators. Of the 100 miles square included in the District, 36 lying south of the Potomac, and included in the county of Alexandria, were ceded by Virginia. A strip 10 miles long, by about 8 broad )ying N. of the Potomac and comprehended in Washington county was ceded by Maryland. The surface of the District is gently undulating, affording fine sites for the cities within its limits. In a commercial view its situation is highly fa- vorable. Ships of any draught can be navigated to Alexandria, and those of very conside5able size to the Navy Yard on the East branch of the Po- tomac, at Washington. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and the fine roads which the government has made in every direction, also contribute much to its commercial advantages. SOIL. There is as much variety of soil as of surface in the District. The hills are for the most part covered with forests, and the vales arc cultivated or 472 GENERAL DESCRIPTION covered with uilJ shrubbery, presenting a landscupe, almost every where, of great beauty. Springs of the finest quality abound. Rock creek, Tiber creek, and the Eastern Branch of the Polomac on the north, — and Oxeii Rvnon the south, — and Four Miles Run on the west, — irrigate a great portion of the District. The Potomac presents a vast sheet flowing from N. W. to S. E. View- ed from Fort Wasliington, — with the mouth of the Ea.?tern Branch on the left, — tiie main stream on the right, — and the opening of Four Miles Run in front, it presents the appearance of a great inland sea, rather than of a river. The composition of the soil on the banks of the Potomac and the Eastern Brancli, is a deep alLiiolal — rich and various — accumulated from the depo- sites of successive ages, — and tlie gradual retreat of the waters. Frag- ments of primitive rocks, pyrites, gravel, sand, shells and decayed ve- getable substances arc mingled togetiier. The soil generally near the river is fertile and productive, elsewhere ra- ther thin, and sometimes sandy; but susceptible of great improvement. The most forbidding and barren looking with ordinary attention, and by the use of manure and gypsum, may be fertilized to an extraordinary de- gree. With such a soil, nothing is wanting but enterprise and perseverance to change the face of nature from a barren waste, to a blooming garden, and one would tliink that a market of suflicient extent to stimulate to the requi- site exertion was presented almost at the very doors of the farmer and hor- ticulturist; — if indeed tlie facilities for water transportation afforded by the Potomac and its branches do not bring the more distant, but more fertile portions of Virginia and Maryland into injurious competition. The Rock creek lands are of a light, loamy nature, with a substratum of clay. The staple produce of tlie country is the same with that grown in the adjoining portions of Virginia and Maryland, viz: tobacco, wheat, Indian corn, fruit, and the esculent roots. There is near the District, on Acquia creek, an extensive quarry of free- stone, and on the Seneca one of beautiful variegated marble, or pudding stone from which the columns in the Hall of the House of Representatives were made. The composition of the city low grounds, lying below the bights, from the Capitol to Halorama and to the margin of the Potomac, are alluvial, and appear to have been reclaimed but recently. Within the memory of many now living, seines have been hauled, and fish taken, where handsome stores now stand, in the pari', of Pennsylvania Avenue in which most business is now carried on, namely— between 0th and 10th streets. The extent of the marshes below (,'olumbia College bears evidence that a part of the stream of Rock creek once found its way across towards the Eastern Branch, along the foot of the bights Avhich flank the northern part of Washington. By judicious draining these swamps have been recently limited to a ccm- paiatively small space, but their existence has still an injuncus effect upon the health of the inhabitants residing in their vicinity. This fact i.s clearly established by the improvement of the health of all situated in the vi'-jmty of the low grounds from the centre market to Capitol Hill OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 473 • Pieces of sound timber are often discovered from ten to fifty feet below the surface. In digging wells, several pieces of black looking limbs of trees, and entire roots have been found at a considerable depth. — An exten- sive stratum of carbonated limbs of trees has been discovered near Bla- densburg, and north of the City, and traced for a considerable distance. Many of th« blocks of stone that compose the walls of the Capitol con- tain specimens of the leaves of trees, and ligneous fragments, — and when exposed to the air they have sometimes shrunk. On turning up the surface of the soil some curiosities of Indian origin have been found. Round stone vessels in the shape of common pots, or bowls, and slone axes are sometimes picked up. A good specimen of an Indian axe in excellent preservation was found on the farm of Mr. Dunlop in Montgomery county, M6. — and is yet in his possession. Points of darts, and arrow heads of stone, used in Indian warfare are met with in many parts of the District. In some ancient records an Indian fort is mentioned, as standing on the banks of the Eastern Branch, not far from the spot on which the powder magazine is now located, — but there are now no traces of It to be found. The tenipcralure of the water of the city springs, when brought to the surfece of the earth at midsummer may be set down at 68° of fahrenheit, — the Bladensburg chalybeate at 64^, — and the stream of the Potonjarr at 85°, — and the Avater in the hydrants in Pennsylvania Avenue generaily, where the pipes ai-e sunk to a proper depth, at 56°, though it may issue "from the fountain at 5S°. GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY. A few years ago a correspondent of a New York print, (generally under- stood to he an intelligent member of Congress) took a glance at some of the prominent geological features of this District; and although there be some imagination in the sketch, yet, there is enough of science to justify its inser- tion. It is obvious, says he to the most careless observer, that over the site of the Capitol of the United States, and the country far around, the waves of the ocean once rolled, and that these fields, now quietly tilled by the planter, were thrown from beneath it by some tremendous convulsion. Where the great concerns of this nation are now canvassed, and our politicians are miagining that they may provide for the perpetuity of our republic, memo- ry, as if mocking their schemes, points to the period when the monsters of the deep flowed over the spot; and no human being conceived that the wa- ters would not continue to hide it forever. The proofs of the amazing changes are numerous and conclusive. It is announced by the strata of earth; by the rounded stones, like those which grind and polish each other on the sea shore; and by the numerous secon- dary formations, which without analysis, instruct us satisfactorily on the slightest inspection. In many of the stones found even on the hights around us,^are distinct impressions of marine shells. The lime of which these shells were constituted, has been decomposed, and has vanished, or been incorporated with the general mass, which, when broken, exhibits the con- cave and convex surfaces of the marine substance, and the vacant space pro- duced by the slow waste of ages not now to be numbered. These stones are of various coinpoiition, some beiiig e-\ceedingly hard, and others soft, 60 474 GENERAL DESCllIPTIOIN' and others having the character of the coarse grey sandstone, or what has I think erroneously been called gr-anvilar-quartz." The material of the soil is clay, discolored by the oxide of iron. It be- comes fixed by fire, and no place can boast of greater facilities for brick making. Rock creek, and its immediate vicinity, is the h'ne between the primitive formation and the tertiary ; from Rock creek up the Potomac, the borders of the stream is pregnant with primitive rocks in situ and in boulders, with the exception of a few small pieces of alluvial soil here and theie, in she valley of the river. This is the case for twenty miles or more, when the country changes to old red sandstone, which continues 20 or 25 miles fur- ther up the river, with occasional ridges of brecca or pudding stone: mar- ble shows Itself in various places along tire vall-ey below and above Mono- cacy. Aboirt a mile, however, east of the entrance of Rock ereek into the Potomac, on the southern point of the city, near the Glasshouse, the final termination of the primitive rocks that line the bed and banks of the Poto- mac above, clearly takes pfece, In digging wells beyond this point, rocks or stones seldom obtrude: the all»via,l soil every where prevails. — Rock creek separates the primitive from the alluvial soil. In the former gneiss abounds, which is succeeded by the amphibolic rock or grunstein. The gneiss contains small crystalised tubes of magnetic iron, veins of feldspath and quartz of opaque white color. The rock of the Great Falls of the Potomac consists chiefly of micaceous schist, — the mica schistoide of Hauy, or glimmer schiefer of the Germans, and contains grains of iron which attract the magnetic necdfe. The stone, with which the basins of the Pe^ tomac canal are lined, is a species of sandstone (gris) similar to that know^n by the name of gris des mouilliores [sandstone of coal-beds.] The rock employed to form the foundation or base of the houses of Washington, is a species of gneiss, composed of feldspath, quartz and mica, of a leafy tex- ture, owing to the abundance and disposition of the mica. It contains primi- tive sulphurous iron — and also particles of the same metal, which are at- tracted by the needle. At Fort Washington there is a ferruginous clay^ kncvwn hy the name of hot, whicii is employed to dye cloth and thread, of a reddish color. This substance, when heated, attracts the magnetic needle. The moulds of petrified shells of the genus area weighing several poimds, have been dug up at this place. Robinson, in his catalogue of American mineralogy, furnishes the folluw-' ing for the District of Columbia : Flint, — on the shores of the Eastern branch of the Potomac near tfie Navy Yard, in small nodules, — Hornstonc, containing organic rertnains, agatized wood, woodstone, — three miles north from Washington, sometimes invested with minute crystals of quartz, — fine specimens and abundattt. Schorl — In Georgetown — in gneiss — lignite and pyritical fossil wood ate found abundantly in digging wells. Iron ore — in the vicinity of the wood- stone locality, in detached masses on the surface — organic remairis in sand- stone — abundant. CLIMATE. The prejudices that some time back existed averse to the general health of the District, have been dissipated by the monthly publication of meteo- lological observations, and the interments in the public grive yards, authen- OF THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 475 ticated by the board of health. The climate of course resembles iliat of the adjoining parts of Maryland and Virginia. The severity of the winters, or cold seasons, is no doubt of lute years much mitigated. In 1780, Mr. Jefferson says, the Chesapeake bay was solid ice from its head to the mouth of the Potomac. At Annapolis, where it is 5^: miles between the nearest points of land, the ice was from 5 to 7 inches thick quite across, so that loaded carriages went over it. In January, 1772, the snow in the District of Washington was nearly three feet deep, and in some places it drifted to ten or twelve feet. Of late years not more than as many inches have fallen. Formerly the river, near Dumfries, was frequently frozen over in Novem- ber, — heavy snows fell in the same month, and loaded the forest trees, till their brafiches broke under the pressure. The climate, as cultivation progresses, is rapidly improving. The District js now seldom visited with the long or severe winters, of which our early settler.? so feelingly complained. Fraiice, as well as America, in its uncultivated state, had hard winters. — In the time of Julius Caisar, the Rhine was frozen over, and neither the olive nor the vine was then cultivated. A Gallic winter, once proverbially severe, is now, under a state of high cultivation, mild and pleasant. In the daj-s of Horace, mountains near Rome were covered with snow. The climate of Britain, ho\vever, is a remarkable exception; it appears, in our days, to continue as it was, in the times of Tacitus, moist, cloudy, and rainy. — So we are encouraged, on the authority of the ancients to look forward to a progressive improvement and material mitigations on the rigors of winter, when our soil shall be more generally opened by cultivation ; we may not then be tortured with those e.Ktremes of heat and cold, under which we now labor, varying from 18° below zero, to 98° above, of fohrenheit. In summer, the District is visited with fi-equent thundergusts, though, on the whole they are beneficial, as they tend lo purify the atmosphere, and mitigate the sultriness of the season, which is often as oppressive as within thc-tropics. The most remarkable of these tempests or tornadoes occurred in June, I81I, and August, 1814; during the former, large hailstones weighing three or four ounces, fell, and destroyed every pane of glass on the north side of the houses in Alexandria: and, in the latter instance, many houses were blown down and trees laid prostrate, much to the terror of the British, who at that time held for 24 hours the occupation of the city. We have no doubt that the deg-ree of caloric has considerably increased, since the forest trees were cut dowai on our commons, and wide gravelled avenues formed: the difference of temperature in favor of the forest shade is, by some philosophers, reckoned at one fifth less than on an open space. Bordering as the District does on so many water courses, it may be naturally presumed, that its inhabitants, in the summer months, are not free from the annoyance of insects. The m,usquetoe is the most formidable of this de- scription ; but houses on an elevated site, or with a thorough draught of air, are seldom troubled with them. On the low grounds, and on the borders of swamps, ephemeral insects, chiefly of aquatic origin, in swarms of va- rious descriptions, make their appearance; musquetoe curtains, however, so cotDmor} in Carolina, are here very seldom required for the comforts of the bed chamber. It may naturally be e.xpected that the sudden changes of the atmosphere, — ^though in sound constitutions, they may harden the body, — yet with the more delicate, produce in winter and spring, colds, coughs, rheumatic affec- tions, — and in the fall, bilious fevers, agues, &c.: nevertheless that part of 476 GENERAL DESCRIPTION, &c the District in which Washington is located, is at least as healthy, if not more so. than any other portions of the Union, containing an equal number of inhabitants. ABORIGINES. Of the aborigines of the District we have a very imperfect account. In 1608 the first attempt to explore the Chesapeake and its tributary streams was made by Smith. Forty principal and subordinate tribes, occupied the shores of Virginia and Maryland at the time, of whom the Powhatans, the Manahoacs and Monacans were the chief. The Powhatans roamed from the shores of the Chesapeake to the Patuxent in Maryland: the Manahoacs and the Monacans on the territory contiguous to York and Potomac rivers. The Shawanees probably inhabited that part of Mary- land which lies between the Patuxent and the Patapsco rivers, and from the Chesapeake to the Alleghanies. The Susquehanocks, it is believed, lived on the banks of the Susquehannah in Harford county, Maryland, towards the westward, penetrating considerably into Pennsylvania. The Fockwocks and Nanticokes possessed Kent, Q.ueen Anns and Talbot counties, Maryland, from the Sassafras river to the Choptank : and the lat- ter tribe, Dorchester and Somerset counties. The Manahoacs and Monacans were in alliance with each other, and waged a confederate and perpetual war against the Powhatans. It is pro- bable, and it is generally admitted, that they were occupiers of the terri- tory which forms the present District of Columbia. The Manahoacs, it is asserted by Colden, afterward assumed the name of Tuscaroras, deserted their country in Virginia about 1712, and repairing to the west, joined the Iroquois. In 1669, when a census was taken, it was found that in sixty-two years, one-third of their number were wanting. The valley at the foot of the Capitol Hill, washed by the Tiber creek, the Potomac and the Eastern Branch, it is stated on the authority of some of the early settlers, was periodically visited by the Indians; Avho named it their fishing- ground, in contradistinction to their hunting ground; and that they assem- bled there in great numbers in the spring months to procure fish. Green- lief's Point was the principal camp and the residence of the chiefs, where councils were held among the various tribes thus gathered together. The comcidence of the location of the National Legislature, so near the site of the council house of an Indian nation, cannot fail to excite interesting re- flections in the mind of the intelligent reader. It is highly probable that General Washington was acquainted with this tradition, POPULATION In 1800 14,093 Slaves, .3,244 " 1810 24,023 Increase in ten years, 9,930 " .5i395 " 1820 33,039 " " 9,060 " 6,377 " 1830 39,868 " » 6,819 " 6,054 GOVERNMENT. The Congress of the United States is the Legislature of the District of Columbia, and the President of the United Statea its highest ALEXANDRIA. 477 eTecutive officer. The ordinary municipal control is exercised by a Mayor and Corporation. Judiciary — Circuit Court. WiLLiAiff Cranch, of Washington, BUCKNOR ThRUSTON, James S. Morsel, Francis S. Key, Alex. Hunter, William Brent, Edmund J. Lee, Georgetown, IVashington, Alexandria, Chief Judge, Assista?(,t, Attorney, Marshall, Clerk, Clerk- Salary, $2,700 2,500 2,000 Fees, &c. The Chief Judge of the Circuit Court holds also a District Court. Orphan^ s Court. Samuel Chase, of Washington, Chief Judge, Salary, $1,000 Henry Neal, " " Register, Fees, «fcc. Christopher Neal, " Alexayidria, Judge, " $800 Alexander Moore, " " Register, Fees, &c. The Circuit Court for the District is held at Washington, on the first Monday in May and December, and at Alexandria on the second Mon- day in April and the first Monday in November. The District Court is held on the first Monday in June and November. ALEXANDRIA, Alexandria originally called Belhaven, a Post Town and Sea Port, situated on the western bank of the river Potomac, near the head of tide water, on the south corner of the District, 6 miles south of the City of Washington, and 180 ms. from the ocean. The meridian of Washing- ton passing through the Capitol, leaves the central part of Alexandria, near 3' to the E. — Lat. of Alexan- dria 38° 48' N. This town lies principally in the District of Columbia, but a small part of it is in the state of Virginia. It was incorporated in 1779 by the state ©f Virginia, and that part of it which lies within the District was ceded to the General Government in 1801. The laws of Virginia, enacted previous to that time, still remain in force in the town and county of Alex- andria, except those which have been repealed by Congress. The muni- cipal government consists of a Coun- cil of IG representatives and a Mayor Four members of the Council are an- nually elected in each of the 4 wards into which the City is divided, an^ the Mayor is elected every year by the Council. The political situatioi'\ of Alexendria in common with the. other portions of the District of Co- lumbia is singular. The President of the United States is the Governor, and Congress, the Legislature of the District, but the people have no voice nor are their sentiments officially heard, in. any of the political concerns ot the country. The Circuit Court of the United States, for the District of Columbia, sits in Alexandria twice a year, and its expenses are defrayed by the General Government. From the decision of the Court, there are appeals to the Supreme Court of the United States. Alexandria is very handsomely situated. The streets are laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, crossing each other at right angles, and are generally well paved. It is consider- 47S DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, ed remarkably healthy, and the view from the City is very fine. The town is situated in the bottom of a v^alley which to the eye of an observer is terminated in every direction by lofty and verdant hills. To the north he sees the City of Washington, — the Capitol with its beautiful columns, white walls and towering dome, form- ing a most conspicuous object; to the south, the broad translucent expanse of the Potomac opens upon him, with Fort Washington, lying like a white line on its distant margin, opposite to Mount Vernon. The river opposite to the town is a mile in breadth, and varies from 34 to 52 feet in depth, in the ship chan- nel, which here washes the shore, — of course the harbor is naturally very fine, and it has been much improved by the erection of large and commo- dious wharves. Commerce. — Alexandria carries on an extensive trade in flour, tobac- co, sumach, fish, lumber and other articles, with the Southern states, West Indies and Europe. Barrels. Half Barrels. The.mspectionof flour in 1829, was 178,874, and 5,789 1830, " 166,386, " 6,385 1831, " 206,294, " 6,001 Besides an extensive trade with tlie eastern ports of the United States, the exports to foreign countries for the last 3 years, were in amount as follows: 1809 - - - - - $687,259 1830,' . , - - - 628,142 1831, ... - - 864,484 On the 31st of December 1831 the)clear revenue from the town of Alex- tonnage belonging to the town wasjandria, during the period above men- 8,230 tons, and it is still increasing, tjoned, to upwards of four millions of There are 3 Banks in Alexandria dollars. with an aggregate capital of one mil- Religious and Moral Associa- lion, seven hundred thousand dollars, tion.s. Manufactories, &lc. — and 3 incorporated insurance compa- There are in this town 9 houses of nies. The amount of real estate is public worship, 2 Episcopalian, 2 assessed al two millions seven hundredjPresbytt-rian, 1 Friends', 2 Metho- thousand dollars; and according toidist, 1 Catholic and I Baptist. There authentic information from the treasu-jis also a phi!o.sophical society, and ry department of the United States, an incorporated Library, containing the town paid into the treasury from about 4,000 volumes, a Library insti- the 31st of December 1791 to the 31st tuted by an association of apprentices December 1829 inclusive, on account and other minors, a savings fund in- of customs, three millions, seven hun- dred and thirty seven thousand, one hundred and sixty one dollars and stitution, an orphan asylum, a poor house and dispensary, a bible, mis- sionary and temperance society, a twenty seven cents, — on account of the colonization society, a benevolent so- post office, one hundred and seventy|ciety for improving the condition of three thousand, seventy three dollarsithe people of color, a society for fur- and thirty four cents, — for direct tax'nishing employment to the indus- in the years 1815-16, eleven thou-!trious, indigent, and several for sup- sand, one hundred and fifty dollarsiplying food, clothing and fuel to the and seventy cents. The amount ofjpoor in winter. There are several internal revenue which cannot be ac-jbaking establishments, where ship curately ascertained would swell thejbread and crackers arc made equal to ALEXANDRIA. 479 any iiianafacturecl in the United States or elsewhere, 2 ship yards, an exten- sive brewery, and several tanneries, a foundry upon a large scale, with a manufactory of steam engines and va- rious machinery for cotton factories, &c. and several manufactories of se- gars, on an extensive scale. Alexan- dria contains a handsome market house, at which a market is held eve- ry morning. It is generally Avell siipplied with meats, fish, fruits and vegetables in their season. In the latter part of the spring, wild straw- berries abound in the adjacent coun- try, and are brought in great quanti- ties to market. Over the market house is the Court-house, clerk's of- fice, council chamber, town hall and library; and in the upper story of the same building an extensive and well arranged Museum. Over the centre of this building is a steeple in which an excellent clock tells the hours on a bell, that weighs fifteen hundred pouitds. There is a boarding school for young men, in which the languages, mafbemiatics, philosophy, and every useful branch of education is taught. A part of the course consists of a se- ries of lectures on astronomy, chemis- try, «fee. in which the principles of the sciences treated of are illustrated by experiments with suitable apparatus. There are also boarding schools for young ladies, conducted by ladies, in which are taught all the branches of polite and fashionable education, and a boarding school for young ladies under the charge of Four Sisters of Charity from Emmittsburg, in the state of Maryland. This institution, though but lately established, and not yet completed, is in a flourishing con- dition. 'When finished it will have connected with it an orphan asylum. There are also in Alexandria, free schools for children of both sexes, and about dO othet schools, exclusive oi Sunday schools. In the vicinity of Alexandria is established a Protestant Episcopal Theological Seminary on an elevated situation, commanding an extensive and delightful view of the District of Columbia, the river Poto- mac and the surrounding country. This institution at present occupies two large four story buildings, hav- ing space enough between them for the erection: of a centre structure. Population oj Alexandria, at different periods. Population 1810— Free white males, Do. Females, 2,525- 2,378 All persons except Indians not taxed. Slaves, • .i . . - Total white population tStO, 4,90-3 .... 836 .■---■ - 1,488 Total population in 1820, 7,227 In 1820— Free white males, Do. Females, Foreigners not naturalrzed, 2,667 2,948 153 Total white population 1820, 5,768 480 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, Free colored males, Do. Females, Slaves, male, Do. Female, - In J830— Whites, Colored, free, Slaves, nlales. Females. 2,712 2,969 565 816 462 739 A III u. lit foi waidi. - 461 - 707 . 606 - 820 n in 1820, 8,371 Total. 5,681 1,381 1,2013,- -8,263 Internal Imfrovements. — A may appear almost incredible. The canal is now in progress, which will probably bring a great accession o( business to this town. This canal is designed to continue the C/iesaj}cakc and Ohio Canal to Alexandria, and will be connected with that great work by a magnificent aqueduct thrown across the river Potomac, im- mediately above Georgetown. The perpendicular descent from the sur- face of the river, above the Little Falls to tide water, is about 36 feet, and as the canal will be brought on a level from the head of the Falls to Alexandria; it is obvious that at the latter place, it will afford water power for manufactories to a very great ex- tent. Towards the construction of the Alexandria canal, the government of the United States have appropriat- ed $100,000. This city is connected with the interior of the state of Vir- ginia by several turnpike roads, — down which the principal part of the flour is brought that comes to market; and there are 8 steamboats that regu- larly ply between this and other ports, several of which arrive and depart daily. Fisheries. — As Alexandria is the shipping port of the District of Co- lumbia, and one of the principal marts for the immense fisheries of the Poto- mac, it may be well to mention, that in the spring of the year quantities of shad and herrings are taken, which. number of shad frequently obtained at a haul is 4,000 and upwards, ahd of herrings from 1 to 300,000. In the spring of 1832, there' were taken in one seine at one draught, a few more than 950,000 accurately counted. — The prosecution of the numerous fish- eries gives employment to a large number of laborers, and affords an op- portunity to the poor to lay in at very reduced prices, food enough to last their families during the whole year. The shad and herrings of the Poto- mac are transported by land, to all parts of the country, to which there is a convenient access from the river; and they are also shipped to various ports in the United States and West Indies. The lowest prices at which these fish sell when just taken, are 25 cents per thousand for herrings, and $1 50 per hundred for shad, but they generally bring higher prices, often $1 50 per thousand for the form- er, and from $3 to 4 per hundred for the latter, — in the height of the sea- son a single shad weighing from 6 to 8 pounds, is sold in the market of the District for 6 cents. Herrings, how- ever, are sometimes taken so plenti- fully, that they are given away, or hauled on the land as manure for want of purchasers. Some idea may be formed of the importance of these fisheries from the following state- ment: — Number of fisheries on the Potomac, about " of laborers required at the Landing 150 6,500 ALEXANDRIA. 481 Number of vessels employed, .... '• of men to navigate these vessels, " of shad taken in good season, which lasts only about 6 weeks, *• of herrings under similar circumstances, Quantity of salt required to cure the fish, — Bushels, Number of barrels to contain the fish. 460 1,350 22,500,000 750,000,000 995,000 £95,000 The herring is not eaten at the best tables when fresh, but cured, they are admired by all, keep remarkably well, And are most highly flavored when they have been for 2 years in salt. \ The Potomac river can boast of the largest shad fisheries in the United States. The advantages of the her- ring fisheries, she divides with some other rivers of the south, but it is equalled by none, unless it be the Susquehanna. Should the Chesapeake and Ohio canal be continued to the Ohio river, it is obvious that the fisheries of the Potomac will be of great advantage to the country west of the Alleghany mountains, in supplying in great abimdance a delicious and A'aluable article of food of which its waters are entirely destitute. Taken into view the vast number of fish annu- ally caught, and the probable in- crease in the demand, one might be led to fear that the supply will at length beexhausted,^rhowever ample at the present time, but when we re- flect that the spawn from an exceed- ing small number will generate into myriads and myriads of fish, such a fear is at once done away ; the quan- tity is now very great and increas- ing, — it is admitted that next to the small and delicate Nova Scotia her- ring, that of the Potomac is by far m.ore nutricious than any found elsewhere in the waters of North America. During the summer, the fall, and winter months, the variety of good fish is small, consisting principally of the large white perch and rock fish of moderate size, taken with the line, and of carp and winter shad . but at certain seasons o\ the year the 61 supply is abundant indeed. In the latter part of the winter and early ii» spring, great numbers of large rock fish, weighing from 25 to 120 lbs. are taken in seines, just above the salts and brought to the markets in the District of Columbia. About 8 years since there were taken at one of the fisheries on the Virginia side of the riverj about 3 miles below Washington,* at one draught of the seine, four hundred and fifty rock fish averaging sixty pounds each, as is well attested, and was recorded in the newspapers of the day. Sturgeon also abounds in the Potomac, and are of enormous size weighing from 75 to 150 pounds, in some places they are considered a great delicacy, as in the James, the Potomac, and the Hud- son rivers, — while on the Delaware they are considered worthless and scarcely eaten. The sturgeon comes up the Potomac twice a year, which is in the months of iMay and August. — presses up to the very fool of the first fails, and is taken in the great- est quantity within the District, in times of freshets in the strong water between Georgetown and those falls. They are taken either m floating nets, with large m-cshes, or by an_ inge- niously contrived hook, not baited, but by a curious device, prepared to pierce him on the body so certainly and so deeply, as to hold him and bring him in, notwithstanding his great size and strength; this latter mode of taking the sturgeon is be- lieved to be peculiar to the Potomac. f *The noted fiahery called the Sycamore LANDiyG, belonging to Gen. Mason. +" The hook is made of stout, well-tem- pered iron, keenly pointed and barbed 482 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Water Fowl. — The celebrity of|necessary. In the following account have availed ourselves largely of the information contained under the "Water Fowl," in a useful little the water fowl of the Potomac, and the scarcity of information upon the subject, render an article upon them with steel, is about thirty inches in length, bent at the lower end, and much in the way with ordinary tish-hooks, in propor- tionately larger dimensions, and so as to place the barb on the inside of the curva ture; but the stem, or that part to wiiich the line is attached, and which is about twenty-four inches long, instead of being straight, is bent nearly as the segment ol a circle, the diameter of which would be! below, and the facility with which the equal to the length of the hook — to this! stem plays in the open loop, so operates as to cause a sudden turn in the hook and to reverse the position of the barbed ^nd, and thn^w it directly under the fish, with so smart a tug, that it at once designates to the practised hand of the wary fisher- man, the critical instant at which he is to make his last eiTort ; and he succeeds the more readily m the thrust, because from the line touching the fish, consequently that part of the stem of the hook attached to the line reaches the fish, with the barb part turned from it, and as the back of the stem is drawn on, being circular, only a small part of it at a time is in contact with the fish ; but at a certain point of this con- tact, near the middle of the entrance of the curve, the weight, from its position circular part is attached an iron weight cylindriacally, formed of three or four pounds weight by a stifi' loop, but roomy enough to allow the weig:ht to slide up or down the stem, to which the hook is thrown into the water, this weight not on- ly answers the end ot the common sinker to keep the line stretched at the depth re- quired, but by its superior gravity, so scon as it has reached the point prescribed by the length of the line given out, it draw's the hook down in a perpendicular position in the direction ol* the line, and by its power of sliding on the stem of the hook, adjusts itself just at the bottom of this, and where the curvature in the opposite direction, that forms the hook proper, be- gins, by the instrumentality of this weight so placed, and opeialing on the peculiar form of the hook — while suspended by a tight line, the hook remains, with the back of the circular stem turned towards the hand of the fisherman that holds the other end of the line, and "of course with the barbed end turned from him, whether held still, or kept in motion. Thus prepared the fisherman, some- times drags, as it is termed, for the stur- geon ; that is, he rows his light little boat the position of the barb, it is brought up directly against the belly of the fish, which is of soft skin, unprotected by the bony shields dispersed over the back and sides, So soon as the sturgeon is hung, he makes ofi' with great strength and swiftness, the line is plaid out to give him play, and the little boat, if before stationary, is cast loose, so that when the line is out, the boat, to which one end was secured, is for a time darted so rapidly through the wa- ter that her bows are brought almost under^ his speed however presently slackens, his strength exhausted, and he yields himself up to be drawn in and hoisted on board. An instance occurred near the Little Falls some years ago, of the strength and power of this fish. A noted fisherman, whose name is well known, had incautiously made fast one end of the line to his leg, and having hung a sturgeon, was dragged slowly backwards and forwards, with his; over board and drawn cff by it, to a'con line suspended from the stem at a given depth ; or, sometimes at anchor he lays in wait, his line stretched perpendicularly under him, with the hook near the bottom —when the fish strikes against any part of the line, it is so stirred by its great weight as to be sensibly felt by the fisher- man, Avho then hauls rapidly but steadily up, until he feels that the hook has come in contact, and has turned suddenly in- ward, the barbed part towards the fish; when by an instantaneous and strong jerk, he buries the barb in its body Here is the development of the contrivance of this hook, and here too is exerted all the tact of the fisherman — the hook is drawn up as before described with the convex part of the stem towards the fisherman. si-derable distance in the river, sometimes above and sometimes under water, but from his intrepidity and skill in swim- ming, he was enabled to get through this perilous conflict safely, aiKl to conquer the sturgeon and tow him on shore, with- out the aid of his boat. It remains to ac- count, as to this interesting fishing, by which the amateurs for sport, as well as the more humble, for gain, are much at- tracted, hoAv it happens that the stugeon would seem to seek, rather than avoid the line put out for his destruction, when there is no bait about it to invite him. Sportsmen and fishermen, to be good in their way, as is known, must be well ac- quainted with the habits of the animal they would circumvent and bring within ALEXANDRIA. 483 work upon the District of Columbia, are denominated drift fowl, from the by Jonathan Elliot, Esq. circum.stance of their collecting in The summer duck {Anas Sponsa vast bodies, when at rest, in the mid- of Wilson,) is the only specie.s of the die of the river, or feeding in deep numerous water fowl which frequent I water, obtaining their food by diving the Potomac, which breed upon its borders; the others are migratory. The whole tribe has been sensibly to the bottom. The bald face and the sprig tail, although they avoid the marshes, leed on the margin of the diminished of late years, by the newirivcr in shallow water, as do the method of taking them which willjmarsh fowl, by dipping their heads and necks under only ; and all these described as marsh fowl, are found feeding on the shores of the rivers occasionally, except the blue winged teal, which frequents the marshes ex- clusively, and only such as produce the wild oat, his favorite food. This duck too differs from all the others in the time and period of his visits to this quarter of the country; they are earlier made and of shorter du- ration : he comes about the first of September, and goes about the first of November; all the other kinds of duck arrive with us, as the swan and geese, from the middle of Octo- ber to the middle of November ; and depart from about the first to the middle of March. As to the quali- ties for the table, of these fowl, the lyoung swan is considered a great delicacj"^ — while the old one is always hard, and vi'ithout agreeable flavor. The wild goose is deemed much su- perior to the tame goose. The can- vass back, it is known, stands unri- valled in the taste of the epicure, as the most delicious bird in this or any other country. The red head sho- veler, and the blue winged teal are but little inferior to it, in the estima- tion of connoisseurs, in that way; and of all the other kinds of these ducks, there is not one, when in good con- dition, that is not fine game. Most of them are found in abundance dur- ing the season from the immediate vi- cinity of the city of VVashington, down the salts, and some of them are seen in both the salt and fresh water ha- bitually or occasionally. The Swan is not found nearer be presently described, and the in creased avidity with which they are sought by persons to supply the mar- kets. They are still, however, nu- merous, — and consist of various spe- cies, — The sican, the wild goose, and a great variety of ducks, as the canvass back, the red head shoveler, the black head shoveler, the duc-a-malard, the black duck, the blue wing teal, the gree?i tving teal, and the loidgeon. "Of these, the fiv-e species first mentioned are what are called river fowl, frequenting only the fresh river; and the last five kinds are known by the name of marsh fowl, feeding principally in the marshes bordering on the river. Again, of the river fowl — the canvass back, the red head shoveler, and the black head shoveler their toils; the simple solution, in this case, is said to be, that it is the habit of the sturgeon to rub itself against any thing stationary that it meets with in the narrow waters. We can't dismiss this subject without mentioning another singular habit belong- ing peculiarly to this fish, that of occa- sionally throwing itself to a considerable distance above water, to the height of at least eight or ten feet, so that in the pause between the ascent and descent, the whole fi.sh is seen suspended in a horizontal po- sition for a moment, in the air. They have sometimes fallen in this way, very much to the risque of those on board, in the boats plying at the Ferry in George- town, in this District: and an unfortunate occurrence took place during the revolu- tionary war, productive of a most serious accident, on the North river. A sturgeon came down from one of these leaps into a ferry-boat while crossing that river, on the lap of an American officer, who was a passenger and sitting in the sturn, with such violence as to break his thigh and occasiion his death " 484 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA' than about 30 miles below Washing- ton : at the mouth of Occoquan, on the right bank of the river is his highest feeding ground, which is the lowest spawning place of the white shad. Here, and for some 30 or 40 miles below, this noble bird is seen floating near the shores, in flocks of some two or three hundred, white as the driven snow, and from time to time, emitting fine sonorous, and oc- casionally melodious songs, so loud that they may be heard on a still eve- ning two or three miles ; there are two kinds, so called from their res- pective notes — the one the trumpeter, and the other the slooper ; the trum- peter is the largest — and when at full size, will measure from five to six feet from the bill to the point of the toe, and from seven to eight feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other, when stretched and expand- ed. They are sagacious and wary, and depend more on the sight than on the sense of smell. On a neck nearly three feet in length, they are enabled to elevate their head so as to see and distinguish with a quick and penetrating eye objects at a great dis- tance, and by means of this same length of neck they feed in slack tides, by immeriing, as is their ha,bit, nearly all of the body — and ihromng only their feet and tails out, in three or four feet water, and on the flatty shores they Irequent, generally be- yond gun-shot; the sportsman avail- a few weeks before their departure about the first of March, they gradu- ally become thinner in flesh, and m the latter part of their sojourn here, are found so poor and light, that when shot, the gunner gets nothing fit for use but the feathers: whether this circumstance be owing to their having exhausted the means of sub- sistence at their feeding places, or that they are taught by him who rules the universe, in small as well as great things, thus by abstaining, tp prepare themselves for the long aerial voyage they are about to undertake, we pretend not to determine with cer- tainty, there is nothing more won- derful in this, than in the fact, which is notorious, that they by exercise, regularly and assiduously fit them- selves for this continuous effort, to bear themselves through the air. to the distance of perhaps a thousand miles or leagues; large flocks are seen every day rising from the river and taking a high position, flying out of sight and apparently moving in a circuit to a considerable distance, again returning at or near the same place, during the last two or three weeks of their stay.* The Wild Goose is yet more wary and vigilant to keep out of harm's way than the swan. He too is sharp sighted, but depends much on his sense of smell for protection ; this is so well known to the hunts- man, that he never attempts, however ing himself however of a peculiar! he may be concealed from this bird, propensity (of which we shall pre- to approach it from the direction of sently speak more particularly) pre- the wmd, since he would assuredly vailing with them and some of the other water fowl, often toll them with- in reach of their fire : the swan re- main here the Vvrhole winter, only shifting their ground in severe Avea- ther from the frozen to the open part of the river, and dropping dovvn into the salts where it is rarely frozen. They get into good condition soon after their arrival in autumn, and re main fat until toward spring be scented before he could get within gun-shot, and left to lament his errgx^;; by the sudden flight of the whole flock. These geese toward spring; often alight on the land, and feed oa. the herbage in fields, and sometimes, in such numbers as to do great in- *Perhaps this exercise may account for the leanness — and perhaps to produce this I leanness may be a motive for the exercise. ■\Yhen^ Ed. Gaz. ALEXANDRIA. 485 jury to the wheat fields on the bor- ders of the river. When so employ- ed they are difficult of approach, al- AtTiys taking a position at a distance fiom cover of any kind — and march- ing in a single and extended rank flanked by a vi^atch goose at each ex- tremity, which, while all the others are busily feeding and advancing with their heads down among the herbage, moves erect, keeping pace with his comrades, his eye and nose in a position so as to convey to him the earliest intelligence of the pre- sence of an enemy, though at a great distance ; and the moment such is perceived, it is conimunicated to the whole company by certain tones used for alarm, and immediately is res- ponded to by a halt and the lifting of heads, and an instant flight, or a de- liberate return to feeding takes place, according as the nature of the dan- ger, after the examination may be considered. In the progress of this march the centinels on the flanks are regularly relieved at intervals of some fifteen or twenty minutes, they falling carelessly into the feeding ranks, and others taking in their place the tour of duty on their march. In this arrayed state, they are attacked with great difficulty by the gunner ; his only chance of approach, is by means of a horse trained for the pur- pose — and much precaution is used in this petite guerre. He first, on perceiving the flock feeding in an extensive field — and on none other will they commit themselves — recon- noitres the locale, and takes cogni- zance of the direction of the wind — he then having observed the course of march, enters the field at a point so remote, as at the same time to es- cape close scrutiny, and place his game in such a relative situation to him, as that he has the wind, — that is, be the air light or strong, — it is to blow from them toward him, and notj from him toward them. Next he is I to estimate by the pace at which he I finds the flock advancing, and by that he is to assume, under cover of the horse, at about what point, each mov- ing in oblique lines, he will be brought within gun-shot of them. All this being settled in his mind, he com- mences his movement, first having taken ofT the saddle and tied up the bridle, so as to show as little as pos- sible of it, he then, with his gun in one hand, and the other on the bridle, places himself on the side of the horse opposite to the game, his legs placed behind the forelegs of the horse, and his body so bent as to be concealed by the shoulder and neclf of the horse : in this constrained at- titude, he urges his faithful coadjutor slowly in the direction fixed on, al- lowing him every now and then to slop and regale himself on the young wheat or the herbage over w^hich he is making his way. The geese, ac- customed to find the domestic ani- mals, and none more common than the horse, pasturing on the fields they frequent — see in his approach no cause of alarm — and if due precau- tion has been taken to guard againsl the snuffing of the taint of man^ which there is no question that na^. ture has taught him readily to distin-. guish, he arrives in due time Avithin the deadly reach, and manoevering a while to get a raking fire, presently deals out destruction on the thus cii- cumvented troop. But to attain the object, great patience and endurance are necessary. Hours are consumed in taking and keeping the position with the requisite accuracy, as we have been assured by our informant, who has been an expf^rienced sports- man in these regions, and often him- self gone through the ordeal of wet feet, benumbed hands, bare head, and this crooked position of the body for several hours, on a stretch, w^atching under the neck of the horse, with snatched glance, the bearing of the centinels, and on the slightest indica- tion of suspicion, setting the horse to 486 DISTRICT OF COLUiMBIA. feed, with his own limbs and body so disposed behind him as not be ex- posed to the line of vision from the other quarter until suspicion was lulled again. "Ducks. — Of all the duck tribe, the cani-ass hack, as well on account of their vast numbers, as their supe- rior value, are to be placed in the first class. They breed, as is sup- posed, on the borders of the northern lakes or of Hudson bay, thej^ come to us periodically, as has been before said, from the north, and what is re- markable, have never before been known to visit, unless rarely and in small numbers, any other than the waters of the Chesapeake — and of these, of late years, they have con- fined themselves entirely to the Po- tomac and the Susquehannah. For- merly they frequented also James river, but for the last thirty or forty years have deserted that river alto- gether ; they were called shcUdrakv there — as they were in those days in the Potomac the white, duck — on the Susquehannab, the ca?irass boxk ; but latter'y thename of canvass back has been given to them on both these last named rivers, where they are now only known. It is well ascertained and that from that time to'the present, the canvass back duck ceased to make his annual visit to that river: and it is added, tTiat about the same time the carp-fish ceased to frequent it, and indeed it is affirmed, that this fish is only found in the rivers, to which that duck resorts. If this really be so, it must be, that both are enticed by the same kind of food, or that the grass in question, by some other quality, suits the purposes of the carp fish. "The canvass back feeds in from 6 to 1 feet water ; he is an e.xpert diver, and with great strength and agility, seizing it probably near the bottom, eradicates the grass, brings it up root and branch to the surface, where he bites off the root, (which is bulbous, white and about four tenths of an inch across, and six tenths long,) and eating that only, leaves the long herbaceous part to float on the water. "Very fre?quently there are found feeding among these fowl, the Bald Fall Duck ; he has not the power of diving entirely under water in search of his food, and here he is employed in watching the rising of the canvass back , and in snatching the grass from his grasp, much to that they feed on the bulbous root of his annoyance, — and though the bald a grass which grows on the flats in face is the smaller duck, as he is the fresh water of these rivers, be- sprightl}' and active, he often suc- cause it is always found in their craws, and which has very much the ceeds to get hold before the other has done more, than put his bill above color and the flavor of garden celery;! water, and to obtain and make ofl' it is to this food, that is attributed, and| with the prize, (precious part, the we believe correctly, the peculiarly delicious taste of their flesh. "It is said that during a remark- ably hard winter some forty odd years ago, the wind having prevailed a long time from the northwest, and blown so much of the water from the flats of James river, that it froze to root and all,) but generally he con- tents himself with swimming about among the industrious divers, and devouring their leavings, the grassy part of the plant. The favorite pas- ture ground of the canvass back on the Potomac is between Crane and Mason's Islands, the first about twen- ty-five miles below Washington, and the latter within the District of Co- the bottom, inclosing the long tops of this grass so closely in the ice, that when it broke up and was floated off;lumbia opposite to George Town.* in the spring, it tore the whole of itl^^^en this part of the river is con- up by the roots and took it away — Ideated, usually in January, they are driv- ALEXANDRIA. 487 "Of late years, because of the in-j crease of hunters constantly in the pursuit, and the quantity of craft fly- ing, they have been in a great mea- sure driven from tiie upper beds of their favorite food, and are seldom, but in small numbers, seen above the bridire, across the river at Washino- ton. But a little lower down, and where the river becomes wider, when at rest at night, or when they have retired from feeding during the day, they ride in the midst of it in such numbers as literally to cov-er acres of water. When they resort to the flats for feeding, they separate in a degree, but yet are found thus em- ployed in flocks of many hundreds, and sometimes thousands. Until within the last five and twenty years, this game was obtained in no other way than by shots from the land, and it was therefore, an object of great interest and sport with the amateur- gun-ners. "The positions opposite to their feeding places were known, slight blinds of brush wood were thrown up on the edges of the banks, previous to their arrival in the fall, of four or five feet height, under cover of which, in a stooping posture, the sportsman can reach the desired point undiscovered by the sight, (for it happens that this bird is not like some of its tribe, as the malard and others, armed with a strong sense of smell) and here post- ed, if one of skill and patience in his vocation, he waits often no inconsid- erable time for the proper occasion to giv^e the greater eflfect to his fire. Sometimes when the tide makes high- er, deepening the water near the bank, and so inducing the ducks to run closer in, but most generally forego- ing fair opportunities during every en by the ice lower down, to the brackisli or salt water, and return on it.s dissolution towards spring, biu never in such condi- tion, or with such j^ood llavor; nor do they recover these after such an absence, during that season. few minutes, to fire on detached par- ties, snuiU in number, until a good portion of the flock has placed itself well huddled together, in the desired position. The habit of these ducl^s, which, as we have said, are most ex- pert divers, is when feeding in flocks near the bank, to take their course across the shoal from the outer to the inner part of it, beginning on the out- er part where the water is deepest, and progressing inwards with great bustle and activity, each darting down headforemost, with much velocity, and presently returning to the surface with the sought morsel in its bill, des- patching this, and repeating inces- santly the operation presenting a con- stant and rapid succession of comers up and goers down, without order, and amidst a great splashing of wa- ter, until they find they have ap- proached the inmost edge of the growth of grass, when suddenly they all rise in succession to the surface, those first up waiting a morrtent for the last to come, and now the whole flock being above water, and exhibit- ing three times the number it before seemed, with one accord, they fall in- to close order, wheel and swim slow- ly along, in a direction parallel for some two or three hundred feet with the bank, as well to recover from their fatigue, as to place the column over ground, not yet foraged ; and this done, facing outward, they re-com- mence their work of diving and feed- ing, now moving toward the outer edge of the shoal. " It is at this critical moment at the proper stage of the wheeling motion, that the sportsman in ambush, seeks to open on his unsuspecting victims the deadly fire; it is when with ele- vated heads and the greater part of the body out of the water, the ducks huddled in contact, have presented their sides to him, that he directs his sight and draws his trigger on that section of the flock, which, from its, position, best suits his object. In 488 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, sportsman's phrase, "when he has got the eye, can ruffle the feather and String," in other words, when the game is so near that their eyes can be seen, and in such position that the shot may not glance off on the fea- thers, and that they can be raked by the fire; the proper observation of which rules often gives it more than double the effect. To gain and com- bine all theseadvantages, only belongs to the practised and patient sportsman : he must be acquainted with the habits of his game, and altho' they pass of- ten in review very near him, in the foraging process just described, he must lie close, and often endure cold and wet for a coiisiderable time, and to make his shot tell well, resist temp- tation, until m its A^arioas manoeuvres, the flock puts itself most in his pow- er; frequently during the ambuscade, the wary flock takes alarm from some "movement of the real, or a supposed enemy, and fly suddenly off"; at other times, in a sense of danger, not so confirmed, it scatters and swims di- rectly from the land with great ra- pidity, each duck as it emerges, drop- ping the fruit of its dive, and taking in haste the same track; an inexpe- rienced gunner believing his chance gone of doing better fires on them in this state, before they get out of his i-each, but does little execution. Not so w ith the old sportsman ; he reserves his fire, well knowing that if he re- mains covered, or when other cause of apprehension, as of some person Accidentally appearing, shall cease or have passed away, the flock will, af- ter reconnoitering at a distance for a while, return again to its feeding ground, and particularly will this last, so determine, because he is fully aware of the fact, that this swimming retreat is always performed under the signal of sa,uv<- qui 'pent, and the dou- ble precaution of each, separating as widely as possible from the other, and sinking itself so far under the water that nothing but the head and part of, the neck remains as a mark. "There is a singular device prac- tised too, by sportsmen, for shooting the canvass back, as well as the other ducks, denominated drift fowl, in the Potomac, — the red head and black head shovder, and also the swan, from the banks; it is called tolling them in, and there can be no question of the fact, that each of this descrip- tion of water fowl are often brought within gun shot, by an artifice prac- tised on some propensity with them, not easilj' accounted for. It is some- times done by means of a dog, train- ed for the purpose, and sometimes by moving or shaking in a particular way, the branch of a tree with the dried leaves yet attached, a colored handkerchief or some similar thing, the color, however, in each case, be- ing of a reddish or yellowish hue; and an instance of a hunter yet liv- ing on the banks of the Potomac, who has a thick head of red hair, that he wears in a large old fashioned queue, with a long square brush at the end, often using this brush, shak- en by one hand when lying in wait, with the rest of his body concealed, as a decoy to toll in ducks, has been given us from good authority. "The Swan is only tolled by a dog, that is taught to play about with- in easy call of his master, at the edge of the water; the several species of ducks just enumerated, are to be toll- ed by the dog in that way, or by the other device. In all cases the hunter contrives to place himself behind a log or some other cover well conceal- ed, before he begins his operations, taking care to observe that the direc- tion of the wind is not unfavorable to him, and that the flock he means to toll is'near enough to distinguish such objects on the shore, and under no alarm at the time. By what motive these fowls are influenced, we have not heard satisfactorily explained ; but ertain it is, they are very commonly brought in from some hundreds of yards distance, in this way, to within ALEXANDRIA. 489 point blanket shot. It is said, and perhaps truly, in the case of the dog, that they fancy themselves in pursuit of some animal, as the fox, or mink, by which their young are annoyed at their breeding places. "Of late years, however, these sports enjoyed by the inhabitants of the banks of the river, have been ve- ry much interrupted, by the practice of shooting from skiffs, with long ■guns of large calibre, by that class of gunners, who hunt for the market. They use a very light small skiff made quite sharp at the bows, capable of taking only one man and his enor- mous gun, so low that when thus la duck have sensibly decreased since the practice was introduced, and we can but join in the opinion, that this terrible destruction of them at their resting- places in the night, where not only are great numbers killed, but ve- ry many are wounded and escape in the dark, for the time, only to linger and die, must ultimately drive off the whole tribe to some plai'e of greater safety, if not offering such grateful food. The other drift fowl of this river have much the habits of, and are hunted somewhat as are the canvass back. There is nothing remarkable either in the habits or the manner of taking the rest of the Avild fowl, ws den, the gun-wales are within two jhave enumerated and not particularly inches of the surface, and painted of {described. the color of the water: in the bottom of this skiff, scarcely wider than his body, the man lays prostrate, his face downwards, his gun fixed on a dou- ble swivel, to the bow-piece, muzzle out, and the breach being close by his head, so fixed with an arm over each side, and grasping a short paddle in either hand, when within a certain distance of the flock, he bears down on it so slowly and regularly, and keeping the little bark in such direc- SoRA. — There is yet, however, one other description of water fowl frequenting the Pomac, although, of smaller size, less than the snipe, yet affording so great a delicacy for the table, and so much amusement to the sportsman, that we must not omit to notice it. It is the Sora of Virginia, and Rail of Pennsylvania, sometimes called improperly, Ortolan in the mid= die states. It frequents the tide wa- ter marshes of the fresh water of this tion, that from its very small eleva- river, and is here only for a few weaks, tion above the level of the water, and arriving early in September, and de- the sharpness of the bow always pre- parting toward the latter end of Oc- sented toward the flock, he often sue- 'tober. It is common also we learn, ceeds in the day, and always in the ion the Delaware, and the Sehuylkill. night time, to arrive within good dis-lthe James river and most of the rivers tarrcc for such a piece as he uses, iin the middle and southern states, which is very long, and so heavy as The natural history of this bird ha not to be fired by the usual method of briti^inff to the shoulder, and with bafiled the eflorLsof the most diligent and acute enquiries on such subjects. four 'or'' five times the charge oi a iit is not known which are its breeding com-mon fowling piece, he commits 'places, whence it comes to, or whith- great slaughter. Most of this mis- [er it goes from us. It is only certain, chief, if mischief it be, is done m the ithat it appears suddenly in great num- night, among the flocks in the/^id- ibers, comes lean, soon gets very fat die oi the wide part of the river, Ion the seed of the wild oat, which where they retire for rest, and are jconstitutes lis principal and favorita found ridinir asleep with their heads I food in these waters,— and disappears, under their wmg;.; and mischief wejon the apprcacih of the first smart can but think it, since it b believed jfro.?t. all at once, a3 it would oesm in that the numb*?rs of the canvass bark ja single night,— no person can give 62 '' 49Q DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, evidence of the manner or direction, of its arrival or departure; but it is notorious among sportsmen and oth- ers, that they may be found in great numbers and affording fine sport, on a given day in the fall, when if a night of smart frost intervenes, on the next day, not one is to be found, nor ano- ther seen until the return of their time of visit on the next year. And what makes this the more remarkable is, that they seem badly provided as a bird of passage, having short wings and flying heavily, and not being in the habit, while here, of congregat- ing; some conjecture that they plunge into the mud, and lie in a torpid state all the rest of the year, b>Jt this, like the story of the immersion of the swallow, is scarcely credible. Wil- son supposes them to be migratory — that they have, when it is necessary to exert it, greater power on the wing than is attributed to them generally, and that they come here from a more northern, and pass on to a more south- ern climate which seems to be most probable. " They afford fine sport to the gan- ner without the necessity of much fa- tigue or address, they are generally shot on the wing, and as they fly slowly they are easily brought down with a light charge of small shot. The time of the tide must be observ- ed — the gunner in a light skiff, push- ed with a pole, by a man in the stern, goes into the marsh on the rise of the tide, an hour or two before high wa ter, and has to leave it the same time on the ebb, not only that he may have a sufficient depth to float his skiff over the flats and fallen grass, but because the birds dont rise as freely! on alarm, when by the absence of water they can escape on ioot, by run- ning over the mud, and hiding them- selves among the grass, at which they are very adroit. At a favorable tide, and when the birds are plenty, there is busy work for 3 or 4 hours for the gunner; he may fire almost as fast as he can load, always, however, at sin- gle birds: for although hundreds are often all round him, and springing at every moment ivithin gun shot, even two are rarely seen together. In the marshes on the upper part of the Eastern Branch, and within a few miles of Washington, this game is very plenty, and affords much amusement to the sportsmen every fall. Lower down the Potomac they have another mode of taking the So- ra, with less cost, and more expedi- tiously, much practised on the gentle- men's estates in that quarter. It is done in the night by means of a light. A canoe is preprtred before hand, by placing across the gunwales amid- ships, a kw boards constituting a plat- form, of about 3 feet square; this is covered with clay, to the thickness of two or three inches, and when dry, affords a good h^a rih; a quantity of light wood, so called, (the heart of the yellow pine, which after lying fallen in the woods until the sap part is de- cayed, and having concentrated its resinous matter, burns fiercely) is split into small pieces, and thrown into the bottom or the canoe near the hearth, and a boy posted by it to keep up the fire: two or three men now embark, provided, one with a stout common pole to push the canoe, and the others with light poles 12 or 15' feet long, having a flat board 5 or 6 inches broad, and a foot or so long, nailed on at one end; and enter the marshes frequented by these birds on a dark night, at a time of the tide, when pretty well covered with water, the Sora are found perched upon the long stalks of the reeds and wild oats, to get out of its way. The blazing fire throws such a glare of light all- around for twenty or thirty paces, that it not only discovers quite plainly the birds to those at the fire, but it so de- coys or stupifies them as to detain them in their positions, peeping and peering at the light, until they are approached within striking distance GEORGETOWN. 491 with the flattened poies, and knocked on the head one by one; thirty or for- ty dozen are sometimes killed in this way by the crew of one canoe on a single tide." GEORGETOWN. Georgetown is a Port of Entry,been recently completed. Its princi and Post Town in Washington coun- ty. It was originally laid out under an act of the Colonial Assembly of Maryland, passed in May 15th, 1751. In 1789 the town was incorporated, and is under the government of a mayor, recorder, alderman and com- mon council. This town is situated on the left bank of the Potomac river, at the head of tide water and the na- tural navigation of that river, and is separated by Rock creek from Wash- ington, with which there is a ready communication at present by means of two bridges crossing the creek at two principal streets of Geoi'getown, and an additional means of commu- nication by a pier, of the width of 160 feet, lately constructed across the mouth of Rock creek. The town is remarkably salubrious, and it has at all times escaped those summer epidemics that have prevail- ed some years in the adjacent coun- try. It is handsomely situated on a succession of hills, rising gradually from the river and creek, to which all its streets incline. So that every considerable rain thoroughly cleanses them of all impurity. For some years after the late war, a very active business was transacted in the town, and the improvements during this time were very numerous and orna- pal export trade consists of tobacco, flour, leather, soap, candles, beer, anies and a Masonic Lodge. Regular lines of steam-boats ply from Washington to Alexandria, Baltimore, Norfolk, &,c., and numerous stages run to other places, — among which are 8 daily coaches to Baltimore. The territory now Washington was form- erly a part of P*rince George Co. Md. and was ceded to the United States in 1790. In 1800 it became the seat of government, and 1802 was incorporated as a city. In 1812 it was remodelled, and fu:tally chartered in 1815. The . government is com- posed of a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and a corruTion Council of 18 memiers ; these are elected by the citizens, the latter for 1, and the Mayor and. Al- dermen for 2 years. - _; .: - ^ '-^ -:;.- The Navy YARf> in this eity^was established and organized by the act of Congress, approved 27th March, 1804. It containb within its limits about 28 acres; and io enclosed by The"6W«.;«iift»//iNi!t/!tt,f!f,"forthe|a high brick wall, with an entrance promotion of the Arts and Sciences, from the north, through an arched was formed at Washington in 1816, gateway, ,on each side of which at« and incorporated by Congie:-H in' accommodation;; for the mauneofficer 64 506 DISTRICT OP COLUxMBIA, and guard, attached to the Yard. The\saw gates, each capable of receiving buildings for the officers are commo- and working any number of saws dious, — and appropriate, quarters for the Commandant, Master Com- mandant, Lieutenant, Sailing Master, Surgeon and Boatswain : for store houses, shops, &c. and a Navj^ Store, with a sail loft in tlie second story ; iron store, with a rigging loft in the second story; Commandant's, and other oflices ; labratory for the pre- paration ol ordinance fixtures and sufficient for converting a log to any dimensions by one passage through the gate. Two hammers for forging anchors, &c. 2 large hydraulic bel- lows, 2 circular saws, 1 turning and boring lathe, which when required, can be converted into a machine for boring steam engine cylinders; 9 turning lathes, 5 grind stones, 4 drill lathes for boring sheaves, &c. with stores, in the second story of which is other machinery, required to facilitate a beautiful and well arranged armory An armorer's shop for repairing •small arms ; an iron foundry ; a brass and composition foundry ; a chain ca- ble, and caboose shop ; an anchor shop, smithery and plumber's shop ; a block maker's shop, a saw mill, and rooms for machinery work, «fec. 2 tim- ber sheds on arched columns, one vidth a joiner's shop, and the other with a mould loft in the second story; 2 ship houses over foundations, and ways for buildings and launching ships of any size. All the buildmgs are large and of substantial construc- tion, andafTord every convenience for building and equipping vessels for sea. There is in the Yard a fresh water deck for seasoning timber, &c. For the purposes of the Navy there are some valuable manufactories es- tablished in the Yard ; and for it gen- erally, are made, anchors, chain ca- bles, cabooses, blocks, ordnance fix- tures, and stores of every kind; brass and composition castings, &c. To facilitate the operations hi the manu- facture of these articles, much labor- saving machinery has been erected; the principal of which is a steam en- gine, computed of 14 horse power, by which there is kept in continual mo- tion 489 feet of shafts, with their or- dinary wheels, drums, &c. to the weight of 40 tons, 8 cwt., 1 qr. lbs. By power derived from the opera- tion of the above shafts, a requisite the operations of the several depart- ments in the adjoining buildings. Tiiere is also, situated in the S. E. corner of the Yard, a machine for proving rope and chain cables; the mechanical force of which is so pow- erful, that two men can part a cable suitable for a ship of the largest size. Considerable as a strain must be, suf- ficient to part a 24 inch cable, (or a strain of 100 tons,) such is the accura- cy of the operation of the index, that two ounces thrown into the scale sus- pended from the end of the lever, will sensibly affect the index, thereby af- ording an opportunity of calculating the strainon the cable with the great- est precision. About a mile above the Yard is a large pow-der magazine, and a ware- house for the storage of salt petre, &c. There is generally employed in the Yard for the manufactories, and as laborers, about 200 men ; when ships are building or repairing, the number is proportionably increased by the employment of carpenters, caulkers, boat-builders, mast makers, gun car- riage makers, sail makers, coopers, &c. The Yard is beautifully situat- ed on the right bank of the Eastern branch ; the channel of which affords an easy navigation for small frigates, sloops of war, &c. The United States' Arsenal is situated at the southern extremity of the city, on the point oi land form- power and motion is conveyed to two ed by the junction of the Potomac and WASHINGTON CITY. 507 Anacostia rivers. This position, be- ing at the head of ship navigation — at the seat of government — and cen- tral in a national point of view, was Selected in 1804, as a favorable site for aw Arsenal, intended for the man- xjfacture and depository of Military Stores. For these purposes it was exclusively devoted until ISl'^; when immediately after the declaration of war with England, strong batteries were erected on the sides, approacha- ble by water, both, to protect the Arse- nal and guard the jiver channels lead- ing to the Navy Yard and other parts of the city. From this time, the place was known by the name Fort Wash- ton; notwithstanding its entire want of defence on the land side ; which made it necessary, after the British army had entered Washington, for the American troops to vacate it. — This was done during the night of Captain Frazer, acting Adjutant Geu-* eral of the British army. In the autumn of 1814, the work shops were rebuilt ; and the manufac- ture and preparation of army supplies went on as before. In 1816 a large store house and officers' quarters were erected, forming the north front of the fort. In 1828-24, the garrison was withdrawn — the ramparts re- moved, and permanent buildings ex- clusively for Arsenal purposes erected on the same ground, making, with those built in 1816, the four sides of a rectangular parallelogram. Ac- cording to present arrangements, there are two buildings for the depo- site of muskets, rifles, pistols, swords and other small arms; 3 for the dwel- lings of officers and artificers; and 4 large work shops, besides other smaller buildings. One of the shops contains a steam engine which drives the 24th of August, 1814, after burn- j various machines, made use of in re- ing the work shops and removing asipairing small arms, and in manufac- much property as time would permit, ituriug artillery carriages. Of the The next morning a detachment of I latter, a considerable number are an- ."SOO British troops marched to the [nually made at the place — mostly for fort, and commenced the destruction 'the use of the militia. of wnatever had been left in a ser- 1 The Arsenal contains many thou- viceable state. Among other things, |sand arms, consisting of all the usual were a number of 18 pounder guns, (varieties. Tlaey are neatly arranged 'left by the garrison in the haste of in open frames, and being kept in per- ] departure, mounted in battery and un- feet order, present an imposing ap- * spiked — these they attempted to des- pearance. Forty thousand soldiers troy by discharging one against the can be fully armed and equipped at trunnion of another ; but, most unfor- an hour's notice. On the plain in tunately for the operators, the first front of the Arsenal, are 855 pieces of piece discharged happened to be 'ordnance, including cannon, howitzers pointed in the direction of a well near |and mortars of various calibres. — "by, into which, some of the wadding j Among them are seen trophies of the of the gun was thrown by the dis- lateand revolutionary wars.capturedat charge ; this communicated fire to a j Bennington, Saratoga, Yorktown and large quantity of powder, previously iBridgewater. placed there by the garrison to pre' There i^ also a cannon, relick of vent its falling into the hands of the enemy, and a tremendous explosion was the immediate consequence ; by which one half of the 500 m«n, who entered the place 30 minutes before, with all the pride'and hilarity result- ing from victory, were killed and the revolutionary contest, made in Virginia of hammered iron. It bears the name of " Q,ueen of France," which was marked upon it at that pe- riod. The geological formation of the Arsenal grounds, does not differ from wounded. Among the killed, was a other parts of the city. From the msi DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. surface there is an average of 10 feet in depth of ferruginous clay, resting on alternate horizontal strata of sand and gravel, in which are found de- tached parcels of bog iron ore. The following statement of expen- ditures, (by the United States) in building the public edifices at Washt ington, which were destroyed by fire in 1814. The building of jails for Alexandria county and Washington county, — the purchase of a C. H. for Washington county, — the erection of a United States' Penitentiary, and a. Washington, to January 1st, 1830, j variety of other items, not chargable includes the entire expenses of re- 1 to the sales of city lots. Prior to 1816. Pui'chase of ground for public purposes, - 38,697.92 Purchase of stone quarries, - - - 30,225.31 Surveying and marking boundaries, - - 67,469.76 Opening and improving streets, ... 33,646.82 Bridges over Rock, Tiber and James' Creeks, 15,041.99 Building wharfs, 9,130.17 Building sheds for workmen, - - - 4,681.23 Digging canal Irom James to Tiber creek, - 5,670.61 Interest on loans, conimissions, &c. - - 165,533.93 Salaries, &c. . - . = . . 119,906.65 Capitol, &.C. Prior to burning in August, 1814, ■■ - 788,071.28 From 1814 to January i, 1830, - - 1,704,250.27 Temporary Committee rooms, - - - 2,771.96 Enclosing the square, . , - - 71,602.57 Alterations in the Capitol, - - - 5,507.84 Graduating and improving the square, - 20,716.99 Allegorical clock, , . . . . 2,000.00 Furnishing committee rooms in centre building, 3,579.30 President's House, &c. Prior to burning in August, 1814, - - 333,207.04 From 1814 to January 1, 1830, - - 300,072.37 Alterations, ...... - 1.945.63 Covering the roof, - . - . . 5,405.32 Erecting walls and gates, - - - 5,887.73 Graduating and improving the square, - 19,009.51 490,004.3^ 2,596,500.21 Offices. Prior to burning in August, 1814, - - 93,013.82 From 1814 to January, 1830, - - - 268,850.68 Contingencies between 1814 and 1820, - J5,673.Q2 Engine Houses, Engines, &c. - - 12,917.37 Paved footways, - - . . . 9,064.04 Purchase of part of the City Hall, for Court, &c. 1 0,000.00 Purchase of square 249, for water, - - 1 ,246.94 Jail of Washington County, - - - 4,746.2Q Jail of Alexandria County, - - . 11,186.03 Penitentiary of the District, - - - 70,127.23 • Total, — 665,527.60 361,8a5:3>Q 140,96^83- $4,254,858.53 WASHINGTON CITY. 509 Washington County is bounded N. W. and N. by Montgomery Co. Md., — N. E. by Prince George's Co. Md., — S. E. by the Eastern branch of Potoniac, and S. W. by the main stream of Potoniac. In form it ap- proaclu'S a parallelogram, 8 ms. in length from S. E. to N. W. ; mean breadth 5j ms.; area 42 sq. ms. or 42-lOOths of the whole district, ex- tending in lat. from 38° 51', to 38° 58' nearly, and in long, from 0° 6' 6" E. to 0o"03' W. the Capital, The surface of this Co. is very finely di- versified by hill and dale. Rock creek enters near the northern angle, States and foreign powers; and cor- responds officially with the public iVlinisters of the United States at Fo- reign Courts, and with the Ministers of Foreign Powers resident in the United States. — He performs, also the main duties of what, in other Go- vernments, is called the Home De- partment—Salary, $6,000. The office of Secretary of the Treasury was created by act of the 2d of September, 1789. He superin- tends all the fiscal concerns of the Government, and, upon his own re? sponsibilitv, recommends to Congress measures for improving the condition and n^eanderi ng in a general direc- of the revenue. He holds his office at the will ot the President; is, by usage, a member of the Cabinet; and, ex-officio, one of the Commissioners of the Sinking Fund. — Salary, $6,^ 000. Accounts of the government are fi- nally settled at the Treasury Depart- ment: for which purpose it is divided into the office of the Secretary, (who superintends the whole, but who is not therefore, absolute, with respect to the power of adjusting claims or of paying money;) into two Comptrol- lers, five Auditors, a Register, and a Treasurer. The" Firsi Comptroller examines all accounts settled by the First and Fifth Auditors, and certifies the bal- ances arising thereon to the Register, countersigns all warrants drawn by the Seceretary of the Treasury, if warranted bylaw; reports to the Se- cretary the official forms to be used in the different offices for collecting the public revenue; and the manner and form of keeping and stating the accounts of the several persons em- ployed therein. He superintends the preservation of the public accounts subject to his revision, and provides for the regular payment of all mo- neys which may be collected. — Sala- and, by usage, a member of the Ca-;ry, $3,500. binet. He conducts the negotiation,! The Seco7id Comptroller cxamiuos of ^11 treaties between the United! all accounts settled by the Second, tion from N. to S., enters Potomac between the city of Washington and Georgetown. The slope of the whole county is indeed from N. to S., and the descent very rapid. The soil generally thin, though some favora- ble exceptions exist. Exclusive of W- C. and Georgetown, it contained in 1830 a population of 2,994. The entire population of the two cities and the county, was in 1830, 30,262. The Civil List of the United States, though relating rather to the whole Union, than particularly to the District of Columbia, is a matter of such general interest, that we will in-! sert it here: CIVIL LIST, Shelving the nature and extent of the duties of each officer of the Gene- ral Government of the U. States, atid their salaries — toith the mim- ber of clerks employed in each de- partment, and the aggregate amount of their salaries. The Department of State was cre- dited by the act of 15th September, 1798. Previously to that period, by act of 27th July, 1789, it was denomi- nated the Department of Foreign Af- fairs. The Secrtary, is ex-officio, a Commissioner of the Sinking Fund, 510 DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, Third, and Fourth Auditors, certifies I his decision upon them.— Salar^, the balances to the Secretary of the $3,000 Department in which the expenditure has been incurred; countersigns all requisitions drawn by the Secretaries of the War and Navy Departments, warranted by law; reports to the Se- cretaries the official forms to be used in the different offices for distributing the public money in those Depart- ments, and the manner and form of keeping and stating the accounts of the persons employed therein. It is also his duty to superintend the pre- servation of the public accounts sub- ject to his revision. — Salary, $3,000. The Fiist Auditor receives all ac- counts accruing in the Treasury De- partment, and in relation to the reve- nue and the civil list; and, after exa- mination certifies the balance, and transmitstheaccounts, with the vouch- ers and certificates, to the First Comp- troller, for his decision thereon.— Sal- ary, $3,000. The Seco7id Auditor receives and settles all accounts for the pay and clothing of the Army, subsistence of pfHcers, bounties, and premiums, Me- dical and Hospital Department, and National Armories, armingand equip- ping the militia, Ordnance Depart- 7i>ent, Indian Department, Purchas- ing Department, the contingent ex- penses of the War Department, and all store accounts growing out of the foregoing. He examines the accounts, certifies the balances, and transmits the accounts with the vouchers and certificates, to the Second Comptrol- ler, for his decision upon them. — Sal- ary, $3,000. The Third Auditor receives all ac- counts relative to the subsistence of the Army, the Quartermaster's De partment, and generally all ai^counts of the War Department, other than those referred to the Second Auditor. He examines the accounts, certifies the balances, and transmits the ac counts, with the vouchers and certifi- cates to the Second Comptroller for The Fourth Auditor receives all accounts accruing in the Navy De- partment, or relative to it. He exa- mines the accounts, certifies the bal- ances, and transmits the accounts with the vouchers and certificate, to the Second Comptroller, for his decisioii upon them. — Salary, $3,000. The Fifth Auditor receives all acr counts accruing in, or relative to, the Department of State, the Cxeneral Post Office, and those arising out of Indian Trade, examines them, certifies the balances, and transmits the accounts with the vouchers and certificate, to the First Comptroller for his decision upon them. To the Fifth Auditor, also, has been assigned the duties of Commissioner of the Revenue, which are considerable, embracing a super- intendence of the light house estab- lishment, and a correspondence with, and superintendence over, the collec- tors of the direct tax and internal re- venue.— Salary, $3,000. ■ To this office has been assigned by the President also, the duty of agent of the Treasury, under the act of 15th May, 1820, for conducting all suits at law, in which the United States ax^ concerned. The Treasurer receives and keeps the money of the United States, and disburses the same upon warrants drawn by the Secretary of the Trea- sury, countersigned by the proper Comptroller and Auditor, and record- ed by the Register.— Salary, $3,000. The Register of the Treasury keeps all accounts of the receipts and expenditures of the public rnol'iey, and of all debts due to or from the United States; he keeps the District Tonnage Accounts of the United States; he receives from the Comp- trollers the accounts which have been finally adjusted, and, with their vouch- ers and certificates, preserves them ; he records all warrants for the receipt or payment of moneys at the Treasn- WASHINGTON CITY. 11 ry, certifies the same thereon, atidicd in the discharjje of his duties by transmits to the Secretary o(" the! two Assistants. He has the sole ap- Treasury copies of the certificates ol] poiiilnient of all Postmasters through balances of accounts adjusted. By an act of the 10th February, 1820, it is made the duty of the Register of the Treasury, to prepare statistical accounts of the commerce of the Unit- ed States, to be laid before Congress. —Salary, $3,000. The War Depart i/kc III was created by act of 7th August, 1789. The Secre-tary of War, at first, had the su- perintendence of Naval Affairs. On out the United States; the making of all contracts for carrying the mails; and, in short, the control, according to law, for every thing relating to the institution. Since the commencement of President Jackson's administra- tion, he is a member of the cabinet. — Salary, $6,000. Board of Cummissioners for Ike Naci/. — This Board was established by act of 7th of February, 1815. It the 30th of April, 1798, however, aicon.sists of three Captains of the Na- separation took place, and a Navyj vy, in rank not below that of a Post Department was established. The Captain. The Board is by law, at- Secretary of VVar superintends every tached to the office of the Secretary branch, of the military department ;| of the Navy, and under his superin- and is, by usage, a member of th cabinet. He holds his office at the will of the President. Attached to the War Department, and under the immediate direction of the Secretary, are an Engineer Office, an Ordnance tende'.!ce; discharges all the ministe- rial duties of that office relative ta the procurement of naval stores and materials, and the construction, arma- ment, equipment and employment oi vessels of war, as well as other mat- Office, an Office for the Commissary ters connected with the Naval Estab- General of Sub.sistence, a Paymas-jlishment of the United States." ter General's Office, a Surgeon Gene-l The number of Clerks employed ral's Office, a Bounty Land Office,' in the State Department, including and a Pension Bureau. All these oflSces, together with the Head-Quar- ters of the Commanding General, (Major General Macomb,) and the Adjutant General's and Quartermas- ter General's Offices, are located at Washington.— Sa ar^-, $6,000. ^. The office of Secretary of the Na- vy was created by act of the 30th of April, 1798. He issues all orders to the Navy of the United States, and superintends the concerns of the Na those in the patent office, with three messengers, are 20 — whose joint sala- ries amount to, $22,(MX>. In the Treasury Department there are employed ten clerks with one messenger. — Their joint salaries are $13,750. In the First Comptroller's Office there are employed fifteen clerks with* one messenger — whose joint salaries amount to $18,450. In the Second Comptroller's there are employed eight clerks, -with one salaries a- val Establishment generally. A Board of Navy Commissioners wasj messenger — their joint instituted by act of 7th February,! mount to $10,300. 1815, to aid him in the discharge of In the First Auditor's Office there his duties. The Secretary of the Navy is, by usage, a member of the cabinet, and holds his office at the will of the President— Salary, $6,000. are employed eleven clerks, with one messenger — whose salaries amount to $13,000. In the Second Auditor's Office there General Post OJir.e. — This De- are employed fourteen clerks — whose partment is under the superintendence! joint salaries amount to $16,350. of a Post Master General, who is aid-' In the Third Auditoj's Office there 513 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER OF are employed sixteen clerks, with one messenger — whose joint salaries a- mount to $20,600. In the Fourth Auditor's Office there are employed fifteen clerks — whose joint salaries amount to $17,050. In the Fifth Auditor's Office there are employed twelve clerks — whose joint salaries amount to $14,400. In the Treasurer's Office there are employed five clerks — whose joint salaries amount to $6,050. In the Register's Office there are employed twenty clerks, with two messengers, whose joint salaries a- mount to $23,500. Commissioner General of the Land Office, with a salary $3,000.— In this office there are employed eighteen clerks, with one messenger — their joint salaries being $20,150. In the War Department, there are employed fifteen clerks, with one messenger whose joint salaries are $19,850. In the Adjutant General's Office are employed two clerks — their joint Salaries being $2,950. In the Paymaster General's Office there are employed three clerks and one messenger — their joint salaries being $4,600. In the Ordnance Department there are employed three clerks — whose salaries amount to $2,950. In the Surgeon General's Office, there are employed one clerk with a salary of $1,150. In the Quartermaster General's Office there are employed two clerks — their joint salaries being $2,150. In the Navy Department there are employed seven clerks, whose salaries amount to $9,400. There are three Navy Commis- sioners, whose joint salaries amount to $10,500. The Secretary's salary is $2,000. In this office are employ- ed six clerks — their joint salaries amounting to $6,750 — also a Drafts- man, whose salary is $1,000, and a Messenger at $700. There are two Navy Constructors, whose salaries amount to $5,300, and a Naval Storekeeper— at $1,700 per annum. Besides the General Postmaster there arc two Assistant Postmaster Generals, whose salaries amount to $5,000— and in the General Post Of- ifice there are employed forty-four iclerks and one messenger — whose Isalaries amount to 40,200. Addenda to the Gazetteer of Virginia and District of Columbia. CONGRESSIONAL DISTRICTS OF VA. By an act of Assembly, 1833, the counties and towns of this state were divided into 21 Congressional Districts, in the manner following, to wit: District 1st — Contains the counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nanse- mond, borough of Norfolk, Elizabeth City, and Ise of Wight. " 2d — Is composed of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince George, Greensville and the town of Petersburg. K 3d — Is composed of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Goochland and Nottoway. « 4th — Is composed of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and Dinwiddie. 5th— Is composed of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckmgham and Cumberland. " 6th— Is composed of Campbell, Halifax, and Pittsylvania. 7th— Is composed of Franklin, Bedford, Patrick and Henry. VIRCUNIA AND DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. 513 District 8lh — Is composed of York, Mathews, James City. Gloucester, Warwick, Accomac, Northampton and the City of Wil- liamsburg-. a 9t|i — Is composed of Essex, Caroline, King and Glufeen, King William and Middlesex. " loth — Is composed of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince William. 11th — Is composed of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, City of Ivichmond and New Kent. " 12th — Is composed of Albemarle, Nelson, Fluvanna, Louisa and Amherst. 13th — Is composed of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock, Madison and Orange. 1.1th — Is composed of Loudoun, Fauquier and Fairfax. I5tli — [s composed of Morgan, Jefferson, Berkley, Hampshire and Frederick, lijih — Is composed of Rockingham, Shenandoah, Page, Hard}"-, Pen- dleton and Bath, llth — Is composed of Rockbridge, Augusta, Alleghany, Botetourt, Montgomery and Floyd. - ». i3tli — Is composed of Wythe, Washington, Grayson, Scott, Lee, Smyth, Tazewell and Russell. 19th— Is composed of Fayette, Nicholas, Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, Logan, Kanawha and Cabell. .. 20th — Is composed of Harrison, Lewis, Wood, Mason, Jackson, Randolph and Pocahontas. 2 hit— Is composed of Monongalia, Preston, Tyler, Ohio and Brooke. ELECTORAL. 13ISTRICTS. By act of Assembly, 1833, this state was divided into twenty-three Elec- toral Districts — to provide for the appointment of Electors to choose a Pre- sident and Vice-President of the United States, and are as follows, viz: District 1st— Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond, the borough of Nor- folk, Elizabeth City and the Isle of Wight, shall form one district. 2d— The counties of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince George, Greensville, and the town of Petersburg, shall form another district. ij --N 11 J oJ— The founties of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Gooctiland and Nottoway, shall form another district. 4th— Th« counties of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and Dinwiddle, shall form another district. 5th— The counties of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckingham, Cumberland and Fluvanna, shall form another district Gth— The counties of Halifax, Campbell and Bedford, shall form another district. j r» » • i 7th— The conntiei of Pittsylvania, Franklin, Henry and Patrick, shall form another district. 65 514 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. District 8th — The counties of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester, Warwick, Accomack and Northampton, shall form another district. " 9th — The counties of King & Queen, King William, Essex, Ca- roline and Middlesex, shall form another district. " loth — The counties of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Nor- thumberland, King George, Stafford and Prince AVilliam, shall form another district. " 1 Ith — The counties of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, New Kent, and the City of Richmond, shall form another district. 12th — The comities of Albemarle, Nelson, Louisa and Amherst, shall form another district. " 13th — T'he counties of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock, Madison and Orange, shall form another district. " 14th — The counties of Fauquier, Loudoun and Fairfax, shall form another district. " 15th — The counties of Jefferson, Berkley, Morgan and Hampshire shall form another district. " 16th— The counties of Frederick, Shenandoah and Page, shall form another district. " 17th — The counties of Hardy, Preston, Randolph, Pendleton and Rockingham, shall form another district. " 18th — The counties of Augusta, Rockbridge, Bath and Alleghany, shall form another district. " 19th — The coitnties of Greenbrier, Nicholas, Pocahontas, Fayette and Monroe, shall form another district. " 20th — The counties of Botetourt, Giles, Montgomery, Grayson, Floyd and Wythe, shall form another district. " 21st — The counties of Washington, Tazewell, Russell, Scott, Lee and Smyth, shall form another district. " 22d — The counties of Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Logan, Lewis, Harrison and Jackson, shall form another district. " 23.d — The counties of Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, Monongalia and Wood, shall form another district. 2. Be it further enacted, That the elections for president and vice-presi- dent of the United States shall be held and conducted in all respects, accord- ing to the provisions of the said act to provide for the appointment of elec- tors to choose a president and vice-president of the United States, passed at the last session of the general assembly: Provided cmJy, That the voters in said elections shall each vote for twenty-three electors, which number shall be composed of one person from each electoral districts, as arranged by this act. 3. Be it further enacted, That if the executive of this commonweahh shall fail to appoint commissioners to conduct the election of electors of pre- sident- and vice-president within any county or corporation of this common- wealth, or if no one of the said commissioners so appointed, should attend at the time and place prescribed by law, then it shall and may be lawful for any two justices of the peace of the county within which the election is to be holden, to conduct the said election, and to make returns thereof in the same mamier as if they had been regularly appointed and commissioned for that purpose by the executive of this commonweahh: Prodded, how- ever, That the said justices of the peace shall take the oath prescribed by VIRGINIA ELF.CTION LAWS. 515 law for commissioners appointed by the execulivo for conducting such elec- tion, before tliey shall be authorized to perform the duties prescribed by this act. VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. "The election of delea^ates, and of the eight senators for one of the four classes of senatorial districts, in the room of those wiio will beannually dis- placed, shall be held in the several counties, cities, towns and boroughs on tlieir respective court days in the month of April of every future year. 2. No elector shall vote more than once for any senator in the same district, at any one election. 3, Every white male citizen of this commonwealth resident therein, aged twenty-one years and upwards (other than such as have refused to give as- surance of fidelity to the commonwealth) being possessed, or whose tenant for years, at will or at sutierance is possessed of twenty-five acres of land, with a house, the superficial content of the (ouudation whereof is twelve feet square, or equal to that quantity, and a plantation thereon ; or fifty acres of unimproved land; or a lot or part of a lot of land in a city or town estab- lished by act of general assembly, with a house thereon of the like super- ficial content or quantity, having in such land an estate of freehold at the least, and (unless the title shall have come to him by descent, devise, mar- riage or marriage settlement) having been so possessed six months, shall be qualified to vole for delegates to serve in general assembly, for the county, city, town, borough or election district respectivel)^ in which the land lieth. If the fifty acres of land, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, the holder shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only; and if the twenty-five acres of land, being one entire parcel lie in sev- eral counties, the holder shall vote in that county wherein the house stand- eth only. In right of land held by parceners, joint tenants, or tenants in common, qualified to exercise the right of sufTvage according to the former constitution and laws, but one vote shall be given by all the holders capable of voting, who may be present, and agree to vote for the same candidate or candidates, unless the quantity of land, in case partition had been made thereof, be sufficient to entitle every holder present to vote separately ; or unless some one or more of the holders may lawfully vote in right of another estate or estates in the same county ; in wJiich case, the others may vote, if holding solely, they might have voted. 4. Every white male citizen of the commonwealth, resident therein, aged twenty-one years and upwards, being qualified to exercise the right of suf- frage, according to the fourteenth section of the third article of the constitu- tion, shall be qualified to vote for members of the general assembl)', in the manner therein prescribed. If the land in the said constitution mentioned and referred to, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, and be in- sufficient in value to entitle the person interested therein to vote in all the said counties, such person, whether he be possessed of an estate of freehold or leasehold ; whether he be tenant in common, joint tenant or parcener, shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only, and any citizen claiming the right to vote, in consequence of being entitled to a reversion, or vested remainder in fee, expectant on an estate for life or 5iG ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. lives, in land, which, being one entire parcel, may happen to lie in several counties, and be insufficient in value to entitle such citizen to vote in all the said counties, shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only. In case of two or more tenants in common, joint tenants or par- ceners, in possession, reversion or remainder, having an interest in land, the value whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, and who, not being qualified to exercise the right of suffrage, according to the former constitution and laws,- have had that right conferred upon them by the pre- sent constitution, their vote or votes shall in such case be given in manner following, th«t is to say: if the value of land be sufficient to entitle them to one vote only, the same shall be given by all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree to vote for the same candidate or candidates. If the value of the land be suf- ficient to entitle them to more than one vote, the votes to which the}'- are en- titled, shall be given by all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or par- ceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree as to the candi- date or candidates to whom the said votes shall be given. No one of any number of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, shall give more than one vote at the same election ; nor shall any greater number of votes be given by such tenants in common, joint tentants or parceners, than the value of tlie undivided land held by ihem may entitle them to give, ac- cording to the constUution. When a vote or votes shall have been given as aforesaid, by such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, the wbole of the said tenants in common, joint tenants and parceners, not having been present, and not having agreed to the said vote or votes, if he or ihey, who were absent at the giving of the said vote or votes, should afterwards appear at the said election, before the taking of the votes is at an end, and to the of- ficer conducting ihe said election, object to the said votes as given, the same shall be stricken from the poll. When an election shall be held at differ- ent places in the same county, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, entitled to only one vote, shall be polled at diflercnt places, and for a different candidate or candidates, their votes sliall be stricken from the poll. When an election shall be held at different places in iiie same coun- ty, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, entitled to give n\ove votes than one, shall give their -votes at difierent places, and in oppo- sition to each other, the said voles shall be stricken from the poll, if it shall appear that all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or pnrceners, did not agree, before such votes were polled, to whom they should be given. In case of two or more of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parce- ners in possession, reversion or remainder, having interest in land, the va- lue whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, if some one or more of them may lawfully vote in right of another estate or estates in the same county, the others may vote in the same manner as if he or they, holding such other estate or estates in the same county, had no interest whatever in the undivded land belonging to the said tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners. 5. If any person shall vote a .■second time at any election for members of general assembly ; or if any person shall claim and exercise the right of suf frage, in consequence of having paid a part of the revenue of t]ie\;ommon- wealth, with which he may have been, by his own procurement, falsely as- sessed; each and every such person shall, for his offence, forfeit nnd pay to the commonwealth, for the benefit of the literary fund, the sum of thirty-three VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 5J7 dollars thirty-three cents, recoverable by motion in the superior or inferior court of law held for the county, city, town or borough, in which the ofi'ence is committed, in the name and on behalf of the president and directors of the literary fund, provided ten days notice shall have been given of such motion. 6. Every elector going to, abiding at, and returning from, an election, shall be privileged from arrest one day for every twenty miles he shall ne- cessarily travel, exclusive of the dq.y of election: and any process against such elector, executed during such privilege, shall be void. 7. And it shall be the duty of the sheriH'or other officer conducting such election, not to enttU" on the poll the vote of any person who may offer to vote, unless he believes such person to be qualified to vote, or unless such person shall take an oath, which the said sheriff or other officer conducting said election, is hereliy authorised to administer, or malce solemn affirma- tion before the said sheriff or -other oflicer conducting the said election, in this form: " /, A. B. do swear, (or do sQhmiily affirm, as the case may be,) that I do ill my con.scie/ice beliene viyseJf to 1)p. duly qiuilijicd to vote for r other proper officer conduct- ing such election at the court-house, and the superintendents of any sepa- rate poll, (if such cause shall exist at any separate poll, for the adjournment thereof,) may and shall, by request of any one or more of the candidates or their agents, adjourn the proceeding on the poll until the next day, and so from day to day, for three days, (Sundays excluded,) giving public notice thereof by proclamation, at the door of the court-house or othej;,,>^lace of holding such election, and shall, on the last day of the election, cone lude the poll according to the directions aforesaid; but if the poll to be held at any such election, is not closed on the first day, the saiia^ ,! ...11 be kept open two (days thereafter. 11. In all cases whatsoever, where by law the sheriff is directed to hold an election, in case of the death of the said sheriff, or other officer, whose duty it shall be to conduct such election, or where there shall be no such officer, the senior magistrate, and in his absence, inability, or incapacity, by being a candidate, the second, and so in succession to the junior magistrate, is hereby authorised empowered and required to perform the duties of the sheriff, prescribed by law in similar cases. And if the mayor of any town, city or borough, entitled to representation in the general assembly, shall, by death or any other cause whatever, be unable to attend and conduct Uhe election according to the provisions of this act, the recorder, or if there be no recorder, or he be unable to attend, the senior alderman capable of at- tending, shall attend and conduct such election according to law. 12. On complaint to either house of assembly, of an undue election or re- turn of any member to their house, which complaint shall be lodged against guch member wjthjn ten days after the meeting of the assembly, where the contested election shall have been held at the stated annual period, or within thirty days after the day on which the election shall have commenced, (if jt be the election of a delegate,) or within thirty days after the day on which the last election in the senatorial district shall have commenced, (if it be the election of a senator,) where such election shall have been held in conse- quence of an intermediate vacancy, and such house shall be in session, or jf not in session, within twenty days after the nieeting of the general assembly, such house shall forthwith appoint some day for trying the same, as shortly as shall be consistent with fair enquiry, whereof notice shall be given by the speaker to the party against whom the complaint is, if he be absent, which day of trial may "be lengthened from time to time, on good cause shewn to the house, and notice to the absent party. On the day appointed for the trial, the committee of privileges and elections shall proceed in the said disputed election, and report to the house of which they are members, their opinion thereon, before they proceed to any ether business; and the said house sliall, on receipt of the said report, immediately proceed to deter- mine thereon, and either confirm or disagree to such report, as to them shall seem just. If any person sworn before the said committee, shall give or withhold any evidence, under such circumstances as would have consti- tuted the same to be perjury, if done in the presence of a court of record, the same shall be deemed perjury. If upon such trial, in the case of a contest- ed election of a delegate, it shall appear that equal numbers of qualified electors shall have voted for the petitioner and the sitting member, and the officer who conducted the election at the court-house of the county, city, town, or borou'2:h, (if it be the election of a delegate from a county, city, town, or borough,) or a majority of the returning- officers of the election district, (if it be the election of a delegate from an election disLrJcf,) shall swear, or VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 619 solemnly aflinn, thait if such equality had appeared at the election in the former case, or at the time of their nieetini;- to make the return in the latter case, he or tht^y would have declaimed the pelilioner elected, such petitioner shall be deemed duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting member, (which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return. If upon such trial, in the case of a contested election of a senator, it shall appep" *'iat t-qtral numbers of (pialified electors shall have voted for the pe- titioner a'i^tl the sitting- member, and a majority of tlie officers who made the' return upon such election, shall swear, or solemnly affirm, that if such equa- lity had appeared avlk-'time of their meehng ?o make the said return, they would have declared the petitioner ehxted, such petitioner shall be deemed duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the silting member,' (which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return. 13. The officers directed to make certiHcates of elections as aforesaid, shall cause them to be delivered, those of delegates, to the clerk of the house of delegates, and those of senators, to the clerk of the senate, one day at least before the succeeding session of general assembly. 14. For election of a delegate or senator, when a vacancy shall occur by death or resignation, during the recess of the general assembly, a writ or writs shall be issued by the governor: and in all other cases of vacancy, such writ or writs shall be issued by the speaker of that house whereof he was a member; but if the vacancy be occasioned by acceptance of an office, the writ or writs shall not be issued without the special order of the house. And the officer or officers to who-m such writ or writs shall be directed, so soon after the receipt thereof as he or they may be able, shall give to the electors notice thereof, as well as of the time and place of election, by ad-- vertiscment to be affixed at four of the most convenient places in the county, city, town or borough, and shall cause the election to be made in the man- ner herein before prescribed, and shall have the same power of adjourning the proceeding upon the poll, as in case of a general election. 15. Any person who shall be a candidate for any counter, city, town, bo- rough, election district or senatorial district, to sersev-if elected, in the gene- ral assembly, who shall, directly or indirectly, give or agree to give, any elector or pretended elector, money, meat, drink, or other reward, in order to be elected, or for having been elected, or who shall treat, directly or indi-' rectly, being a candidate for such or any other county, city, town, borough, or election district, or senatorial district, upon due proof thereof to either house, shall be expelled. Provided, nevertheless, That nothing herein con- tained shall be so construed, as to prevent any candidate from his usual in- tercourse of friendship with his neighbors at his own house. 16. If any sheriff or other officer conducting an election, shall, directly or indirectly, so interfere in the election of scnatois or delegates, as to shew partiality for any of the candidates, he shall forfeit and pay the sum of six hundred and sixty-six dollars sixty-six cents, to be recovered by bill, plaint or information, in any court of record, one moiety to the use of the inform- er, and the otlver to the use of the ('ommonwealth, for the benefit of the lite- rary fund. 17. All and every member and members of the general assembly are, and ought to be and forever sluiU be, in their persons, servants and estates, both real and personal, free, exempt and privileged from all arrests, attach- ments, executions, and all other process whatsoever, save only for treason, felony, or breach of the peace, during his or their attendance upon the gene- 520 ADDENDA TO THE GAZETTEER. ral assembly, and one day before and aftei", for every twenty miles they must necessarily travel to or from home; and, in the mean lime, process in which they are parties, shall be suspended without abatement or discontintjunce; and, if any person taken in execution, be delivered by privilege of either house of the general assembly, so soon as such privilege ceaseth, he shall retnrn himself a prisoner in execution, or be liable to an escape. 18. Whereas, the freedom of speech and proceedings appertaineth of right to the general assembly, and the preservation thereof is necessary to secure the liberty of the people: Be it c/iaclcd, That if any per- son shall arrest or prosecute, or be aiding or abetting in arresting and pro- secuting a member or members of the senate or house of delegates, for or on account of any words spoken or written, any proposition made, or pro- ceedings had in the senate or house of delegates, every such, person so of- fending, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be apprehend- ed, committed and tried therefor, as in other cases of misdemeanors, before the general court, or a superior court of law of this commonwealth; and, being thereof convicted by the verdict of a jury, shall be adjudged to suffer imprisonment for a term not exceeding one year, and shall pay a fine not exceeding two thousand dollars; which imprisonment and fine shall be as- sessed by a jury. 19. And if any member or members of the said senate or house of dele- gates, shall be arrested or imprisoned, for, or on account of any words, spo- ken or written, or for any proposition madcj or proceedings had in the said senate or house of delegates, such member or members may apply to the general court, or a superior court of law, or any judge thereof in vacation, for a writ of habeas corpus, who are hereby empowered and required to issue the same, returnable before the said court, or said judge, or any other judge, and, upon the return thereof, to liberate and discharge such member or members. 20. The provisions of this act shall be extended to the arresting and pro- secuting any person or persons, for words spoken or written, or for any propositions made, or proceedings had in the said senate or house of dele- gates, and to the discharging and liberating any person or persons, by habeas coi'pus, as aforesaid, although such person or persons shall, by disqualifica- tion, or from any other causes, have ceased (o be a member of the said senate or house of delegates, at the time of such arrest or prosecution, or of the trial, judgment; or imprisonment, in consequence thereof: Provided, That nothing herein contained shall, in any respect, extend to the power which either house of the general assembly now hath or may exercise over their respective members 21. Any person intending to contest the election of any other person, as a senator or delegate from any senatorial district, county, city, town or bo- rough, or election district, shall, within twenly-fiive days after the day on which the last election in the former case shall have commenced, or within fifteen days aftei the day on which the election (if it be the election of a delegate for a county, city, town or borough,) shall have commenced, or within twenty days after the day on which the last election (if it be the elec- tion of a delegate for an election district,) shall have commenced, give to the person whose election he intends to contest, notice thereof in writing; and moreover, shall deliver to him, ;it the same time, a list of those persons to whose votrs he hath objection, with the objection to each voter written opposite to his name, stating that the person ol jccted to, in nut qualified to VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS. 521 vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that he labors under some express personal disability, according to the provisions thereof, to exercise the right of suffrage; and where he hath any other objection to the legality of the election, or eligibility of the person whose election he intends to contest as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of siich person, being founded upon his want of all, or any of the qualifications required by the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, distinguishing his particular objections; and the person whose election is contested as aforesaid, shall, within twenty days after receiving such notice, deliver the likg lists on his part. 22. Whensoever the election of any j)('r.--w)n as a senator or delegate, is intended to be contcstt-d, the petitioner and the returned mend)er slrall res- pectively begin to take their depositions within one month after the delivery of the notice in writing as aforesaid, given by the petitioner to the returned member, informing him as aforesaid, of his intention to contest his (dcction ; and they shall finish taking the same at least thirty days jneccding the com- mencement of the ensuing session of the general assembly. And where such contest shall arise in consequence of any return made, on any writ or writs issued by the governor, or by the speaker of either house' of the general assembly, to supply any vacancy which may have happened, the party contesting shall give notice in writing to the returned member of his intention to contest his election, and moreover shall deliver to him a list of those persons to whose votes he hath objection, with the objection to each voter written opposite to his name, slating that the person olijecled to is not qualified to vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that he labors under some e.xpress personal disability, according to the provi- sions thereof, to exercise the right of suffrage; and if he have any other objection to the legality of the election, or the eligibility of the member returned as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such member being founded upon his want ©f all or any of the qualifications required by the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, distinguish- ing his particular objections, within ten days after the last day on which votes shall have been taken in the said flection 7 a»d the member relurr>€d as aforesaid, shall within five days after receiving such notice, deliver the like lists on his part. 23.. Notice in any of the cases before menlionod, as well as the li.st.s WA with his wife or any other free person over the age of twenty-one yea^s, belonging to his family, other than a negro or mulatto, or in case of their absence, then at some public place at the dwelling house, shall be deemed sufficient. The depositions shall be certified by the commissioners raking the same, sealed up, and sent by them to the clerk of that house of which the person was returned a member, without delay; and ihe depositions taken as aforesaid, shall be by the clerk of the house, respectively, delivered to the speaker thereof, to be committed with the petition of the party com- plaining, and shall be received and read as evidence upon the hearing there ol ; subject, however, to the exceptions of the opposite party. 24. Subposnas for witnesses shall he issued by the clerks of the courts of the counties, cities, towns or boroughs, upon the application of either party; and the witnesses shall be entitleil to the same allowance, be privi- leged from arrests, and be subject to the like penalties, as witnesses attend- ing the county courts. 25. It §hali b<^ lawful to Iiold a Mparale poll to choose an elector or elec- 66 522 ADDENDA TO THE GAZATEER, as •84B3A j|0 UIJ3X r-( 1-H ^-H r-;.i '^ -H,^-H,^^r-,r-,C;jrt ^S4(Ji^^-« JiC* •jaqiunjj S28§ O G^ M^M -^ C<5 O TJ* l> CM i-H — (M so S^ C>» 00 •siBS^t J" wjax ^ -1 '-' "^ ■^ TtiM-^MiO'^'^-'T'-iCCCO-^CM-^tMCOrrrti •Xjeibs O O O O -rO -i^O ooooooooooo ^ CO i-H CO •SJB3^ JO tujax c^'^cororHco-H(r»(y>c^cM'*t>}-<*cMco-*-^ •uoijBindoj I O t- CO 'J? 'N O Cr. QD Ci lO — < O CO O O O C-, ! 00 T? m CTJ CO — "X l-~ O fN — ' O 'M — O "I Ci ! ai_i-^^_ co_^QD o_t-; o_'>>^c:i^co_o\'-c o^i^_^co_^in_' co^co"-- -^"ox^crl'o -^co •^''— "c* '^"-^co ^~i > O ^O o > r-H !^ X i CO in o ac' o o o I O in -H 0} r-( •Xj!3 iioi2n!i|sB,vv tuojj aouBjsia •0C8[U! uoijBiudoj in ^^ ■^ '71 -T CO lO O O O T 4^ OJ '-Cj O ' -' ^ .^ a; 5 c2--^ 1 ,« X! :d O •^ IS c S m oc CO CO c» o I ■^ CO o_-<*i .-< CO 'T? s ^ .il t- « c3 a a 'V ^ ci ci - S K-" t-r, ^- ^ -;- 5 _^ ^ fc^ f. y; ■- aj 3 _^ g . "^ S U- > = ci C" fcr 1- -- ~ ^ ;;-■;=:=: t:; o .5 5S 529 ^P ft; ;? q fr > ■ .^ O o y g" « S2 ^-58 g^S ^:^^J ^ <^ ••/> »> 22 B 5 O O "■ ^ so ■ - - •-• o O .:2!0 S3 <= *= a a. w a ^2 s- :t HI "< \4 ■— K; >— I— I— (n a ^ Vi V o Z? 9 ST ~ :^ S != '^ 3 o o -< w ^ S^-%> ,■■ cJ O c • Cfq rt era ' O S .,, r-^ w 1— ' Cfl »* cL ^. M 5- M r p M X n popooooo OOOOOOOO p o o^ O..L p 5 !X c c p 3' O 3' 3 ^ o ie ^o o p M c. c a. & p- & a. a- (s.:-^^ «> EL- 2- £ f^-(^ Ci. a- ooooocooO'po' groooo »« OJ ^1 «3 OJ W W ti ty 'JD -.j; W t^ X *-' OC "J"- O <5i 62 t5 '-^ ■- 67 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION, PROGRESS OF COMMERCE, ROANOKE SETTLEMENTS, Merit of discovering America, —Advancement of Commerce by the cru- sades — ill the Italian cities — in Spain, in Portugal, — Discovery of Ame- rica, — England, — Want of Commerce in early times, — Voyages oj the Cabots, — Progress of English discovery — Frobisher — Gilbert — Ra- leigh, — Failure of the Roanoke settlements. The c-laims of the Icelanders, the Welsh, and even the Norwegians* to the discovery of America, seem in modern times to be universally set aside in favor of a native of a milder clime. Indeed the evidence by which their respective claims were sought to be established was so vague, contradicto- ry and unsatisfactory;! and their discoveries if proven, so entirely acciden- tal, and useless to mankind, that it is not at all astonishing that all the me- rit should be given to that individual whos^ brilliant genius first demon- strated a priori the existence of a continent in the western waters, and whose adventurous daring^ led him to risque hia life in the search of a world, of the existence of w^hich he was only informed by his science, with little aid of any human experience; or that posterity should give to Colum- BTTs the undivided glory of an exploit for which he receiA-ed only the igno- miny of his contemporaries, and to Italy the honor due the birth place of so distinguished a son, from whose brilliant atchievernents she has received little else. The spirit of commerce and navigation had been spreading extensively in Europe, for some time prior to the discovery of America. The mari- time towns of Italy early perceived and enjoyed, the advantages of trade, and Venice, Genoa and Pisa sprung under the magic of its influence, from insignificant towns to the wealth and splendor of populous and magnificent cities. This favorable result was much promoted by the crusades. In the Holy Avars the Italian cities furnished the transports necessary for the con- veyance of the immense hordes of northern and Avestern Avarriors, Avith their accoutrements and attendants, which a love of military adA-enture, and reli- gious fanaticism, A\^ere pouring upon the plains of Asia. The vast sums received for these servicer, and for the supply of provisions to the christian * Winterbotham's America, vol. I. p. 1 and 3., and Hinton's United States. + Bancroft's Hist. U. States, vol. I. p. 6, and notes. t " L'ltalie reparut, avec les divins tresors que les Grees fugilifs rapporterent dans sou sein; la ciel lui revela ses lois; Vaudace de ses enfanfs decouvrit nn nouvel hemis- phere," — Dc Stael — Corinne. 532 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. host, together with the privileges granted them in many of the conquered places, — the discovery ot new subjects of commerce, and opening new ave- nues of trade, — the extension of the knowledge of the countries of the east and the people who inhabited them, — conspiring with the freedom of com- merce and boldness of enterprize of the Italian towns themselves, and the taste spread through Europe by the returning soldiers of the cross for those eastern luxuries and refinements to which they had become accustomed, — expanded the commerce of the world immensely beyond all former bounds, and threw that commsrce alaiost exclusiyely into the hands of the towns of Italy.* . ,. The spirit of discovery and commercial adventure so happily aroused and extended by the wild and visionary s/zheines of religious bigots for the emancipation of the holy land was destined to be yet further extended by religious zeaL mingled v\'itb ignorant supex.stition. Benjamin, a Jew,rtra- velled from Constantinople through the countries of the Euxine and Cas- •pian Seas to Chinese Tartary, in ihc yain hope of discovering his own. sect niling in opulence and power, some country of which Europe was igno- rant. Innocen* IV. sent two monks, to Zengis Khan in the midst of his victories, and equally ignorant of the Pope as of the christian doctjines, with orders to embrace the chrietian religion, and to cease, dcsolatibjgithe earth. St. Louis of France being made .to helieve that a Tartar Chan had embraced the christian faith, and perceiving- the advantages AvhioJi the christiaas. could have by the exertions of such an ally, in their, tJature wars vvith the Saracens, immediately dp:p!patched two iiionks to him:as ambassa- dors; and one of these made a more extensive.ci.rcuit through the interior ■of Asia than any European had .done before liira: ::.. ,j.. .l . >■* yh To these succeeded the loug comaierciaL and.exploritig.expediitionsiiof the celebrated Venetian adventurer, Marco Polo, who in tlie course of his rambling perigrination^ of 2G years d:urati-on, penetrated to Cambala or Pekia the capital of thf' great empire :Qf Cathay or China, and increased immenseJ^r the intormalio.n of Europe as. to. tke situation and eondicioTX' of countries, from which l.liiiy had long drawn luxuries, through, circuiloug commerce, without knowing evfn.tbe pogllioa of thf country u heh>'e they came. ..■: -^ .•'.,'•..;:.:,:•.. . Half, a century after the Venetian had astonished the yet ignorant and A D 1 ■?•>"' almost semi-barbarous inhabitants of Europe, with his ac- "" count of the vast extent, wealth, population,, variety of manu- facture!^ and extent of trade of the east, his account was confirmed "in the most essential particulars by Sir John Mandeville an English gentleman, who excited by his example visited most of the countries of the east which he had described. Whilst this spirit of enterprise was. developing itself, and Europe, be- coming more settled aruj civilised, was looking with eager anxiety to war^i the vast fields for commerce opening to the east, — another son of, Italy, so obscure or so neglected, that we know not his, history, habits or profession, was abput to produce a new era in the history of cornmerce, and to advance the world a great step in the progress of knowledge and civili.?:ation.-^ l^LAVio &WIA, a citizen of Amalfi, discovered the properties of the wa^Tte;", and applied it to that^ indispensable instrument of modern navigation, the . mariner's com2)ass., 'I'his discovery rendered it no longer necessary for * Robertson's Ch. V. and History of Americ HISTORY OF VIRCIINIA. 533 the cautions marinrr to lino tlie coast lor his sufrty, lait he might boldly venture npon the broad bosoia of the deep, and thonyh the sun went down, ami the stars shone not, he feared nothing, for the hunnble citizen of Amalfi had provided him with a guide safer than the coast, and an unerring pilot, whose knowledge darkness and storms could not ob.scure or obliterate. The first dawning of this bolder spirit seems to have been exhibited by the Spaniards in the discovery of the Canary and Fortunate Islands, which lie near five hundred miles from the coast of Spain, and more than a hun- dred and fifty from the African coast. But although Spain was destined to surpass all other nations in the magnitude of her maritime discoveries, by the discovery of xVmerica, yet she was not the immediate agent of extending that spirit o( maritiiuo adventure, and nautical information which contribut- ed so materially in bringing about that event. Tier di.-^coveries of the For- tunate and the Canary Isles seem rather to have been the result of accident than a permanent course of well directed experiments. It is to one of the smallest and least powerful kingdoms of Europe that we are indebted for that boldness of conception and persevering enthusiasm of execution, in voyages of discovery, from which only grandeur of results in any under- taking can ever be expected to spring. The final expulsion of the Moors from Portugal, left many ardent and adventurous .spirits without occupation, and Portugal being a small mari- time staie, too weak to cope with the powerful kingdoms iii its neighbor- hood, whose prowess was efjual to its own, naturally looked upon the sea . p. .... as the field of its future exploits, and source of its future great- ^ ■ ■ ■ ness. John I. surnamed the Bastard, having fixed his own ti- tle to the crown by a peace with Castile, determined to find employment for the restless spirits of his kingdom by an expedition against the Moors on the neighboring coast of Africa, but wliilst it v/as fitting out he des- patched a few vessels along the coast of Africa in search of undiscovered countries. This expedition succeeded in doubling Cope Nou, -which had hitherto been the Ultima Tliv.ie of modern navigation. A n lit" The success of the king's expedition against the Moors in- ■ '■ fused into the nation a spirit for new enterprises. Prince Henry, duke of Viseo, the fourth son of .Tohn by the sister of Henry IV. of England, became the patron and superintendant of the new enterprizes. A n 119 Under his auspices Porto Santo, and Madeira were discover- 111-- p^i j^i^fj L'olonized. It was to his care that the latter island was indebted for a stock of domestic animals, a supply of seeds, and slips of the A n ion ^'''"^' ^'"*^ cultivation of which, produced such a valuable article . *'*-^' of eommerce for the Portuguese, and of luxury for the Avorld. The discovery of these islands introduced among the Spaniards a bolder sy-stem of navigation. They no longer crept along the coast from head land to head land, which was in truth the most diflicult and dangerous navigation, but they ventured to keep the open sea, and were thus enabled to pass with ease dilTiculties which had before seemed insuperable. Cape Bojardor which had been a barrier for twenty years, was passed, and the whole coast explored from Cape Blanco to Cape de Verd. Prince Henry whose mind seem.s to have been in advance of the age in which he lived, manifestly contemplated a passage to India, around the southern coast of Africa. He was not deterred by the idea which many had taken up frojri the writings of the ancients that the regions of the torrid zone were render- ed uninhabitable by their excessive heat, even v\-hen this idea seemed to be S34 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. confirmed as they advanced south, by finding the inhabitants jet black, their hair short and curled, their noses flat, and their lips thick. Nor was he deterred by the captious objections of the envious little politicians about his father's court But with the double view of silencing objections, enlisting religious zeal in his favor, and acquiring a title to his discoveries, the ■va-' lidity of which no christian prince or country of that day would have dared to dispute, — he obtained a bull from Pope Eugene IV. giving hira an ex-' fJusive right to all countries which he should discover from Cape Non to the continent of India. The fame of prince Henry's discoveries spread rapidly through Europe;" and attracted to him all of the adventurous spirits of the age, who had ac- A n llzlQ ^"i'"^^^ ^"^y knowledge of the science of navigation. The ■ ■ Cape de Verd Islands, and the Azores were discovered, and .every discovery added new stimulus to naval enterprise, as every yoyage added new information to naval scien^'e. A D iir^ ^'^ the midct of his successful career he was unfortunately * checked by the hand of death, and Alphonso who occupied the throne at the time of his death, being busily engaged in other pursuits, suf- fered the spirit of enterprize to languish during the remainder of his reign. A n 1191 ^'^ ^°'^ ^^^^ successor John II. speedily revived the spirit of ^ ' discovery among his subjects, and by his zeal and efficiency' more than compensated for the supiueness of his predecessor. He soon- found out the advantages of a trade with the natives of the African coast,; after he passed the Great Desert, and reached the regions of ivory, gold and precious gums. He had the merit of demonstrating' the fallacy of the opinion that the torrid zone was uninhabitable, and found that so far from this, it was populous and fertile. He too conceived the idea of opening. an intercourse with India, around the southern point of Africa, and persevered in his favorite object withunwarering zeal, until the practicability of accom- plishing his wishes, was fully established by Bartholomcio Diaz, who reached the extreme southern point but was unable to pass it, by reason (if the violent storms which he there encountered, and the crazy condition of his vessel. This point which Diaz named Caho Tor7)ientozo, in commerfio^ ration of the diificulties which he had taere encountered, John called the Cape of Good Hope, in manifestation of his delight at the certain prospect of the accomplishment of his wishes. It has retained the latter name. This near prospect of an eaaier and more direct route to India, had al- ready began to excite the jealousy of the Venetians, who then nearly mo- nopolized the trade of India, and to elevate the hopes of the Portuguese, who expected to enjoy a portion of the wealth and luxury which the Veni- tians derived from that trade; when the mind.? of both, and indeed of all Europe were turned in another direction by the occurrence of ah event. in the history of maritime discovery, compared with which all others sunk into insignificance. This event was the discovery of America, by Christopher Columbus,, n>t 11 11QO '^^'^ education of this daring mariner, his disappointments "" ' ' '^' and dangers, his difheullies and his brilliant success, or the melancholy story of his sad reverses, and the example afforded in him of the ingratitude of kings it is not the purpose of the writer to narrate. He refrains from recounting so temptingly interesting a narrative, because it would lead him too far from his purpose, which is only to narrate giic- einctly the progress of navigation and discovery to the time of the first cd^o- HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. S3S ny settled in Virginia, — and because tlie same story has been so well told by Robertson, Irving* and others, tliat it ought to be familiar to all. Notwithstanding the advances in navigation which have been enumerat- ed, the art of ship building was still in such a rude and imperfect state, that, the vessels in which Columbus embarked on an unknown sea, a modern mariner with all the advantages of modern science would scarcely venture in, to cross the Atlantic. The largest was a vessel of no considerable bur- den,! and the two others scarcely superior in burden to large boats, and the united crews of the three only amounted to ninely men, including officers, and a few gentlemen, adventurers from Isabella's court. But notwithstanding these inadequate means for the prosecution of mari- time discovery, the ardour of enterprise was so much excited by the brilliant achievements of Columbus, the greedy thirst for gain, and hope of finding, .^ome country abounding in gold, together with the eager desire which still prevailed of discovering some passage through the great continent of Ame- rica, which might lead to India, that in twemy six years f>-c>m the first disco- very of land by Columbus; — the Spaniards had visited all of the islands of the West Indies, they had sailed on the eastern coast of America from the Rio de la Plata to the western extremity of the Mexican Gulf— they had dis- e&vered the great southern ocean, and had acquired considerable knowledge of the coast of Florida. It is also said that these voyages in search of a nearer passage to the East Indies, had extended much further north, but not however until that country had been discovered by the sea-men of another nation, of whose exploits in the field of maritime adventure we shall presently speak. The great interior was still unkown, the whole western and the extreme south eastern coast was still undiscovered, and the long line of coast from Florida to Labrador had only been seen, and touched upon in a few places. England did not at an early period make those advances in navigation, to which the eminent advantages of her insular situation invited, and gave no promise of that maritime distinction, and commercial wealth, to which the wise policy of her subsequent rulers have led her to attain. From the times of the conquest to the disco-ve];y of America, England had been en- gaged in perpetual wars, either foreign or domestic, and thus while the southern portion of Europe and the free cities on the Rhine were advancing sa rapidly in opulence and power, England was destitute of even the gerin of that naval strength to which she is so much indebted for her preseni greatness. Every article of foreign growth or fabric which she consumed, was wafted to her shores in the barks of other nations, and the subsequent mistress of the seas scarcely dared to float her flag beyond the limits of her own narrow jurisdiction. Scarcely an English ship traded with Spain or Portugal before the beginning of the fifteenth century, and it required another half century fo give the British mariner courage enough to ven- ture to the east of the Pillars of Hercules. J Feeble as the marine of England then was, her reigning monarch Henry VII. did not lack the spirit required for undertaking great enterprises, and accident only deprived him of the glory of being the patron of the discoverer *This work the writer regrets that b)" some accident, he has never had an oppor- tunily of looking into until reccnth', and that very superficially and hurriedly, or it might have been useful to him in this sketch. It seems to be unaccountably scarce, and far too little known for its great merit, t Robertson— Hist. America, 49. t Robertson's Virginiaj p. 18—19. r> 1 tn 1 \i--. _ The progress of maritime adventure extended rapidly. The evidence hceredibus," etc. and again Lis permission, "tertio die Febimrij, anno 13, licentiam dedit loanno Caboto, quod ipse capere possit .sex naves Anglicanas, etc." sufficient!}' prove that Jokn was not dead wlien Sebastian was seized with a "flame of desire to do some notable thing," and go to discredit the legate of his holiness. For the authority that he was not a Venetian born, but a native of Bristol, — See Bancroft, vol. I. p. 8., note 1,-— authority of Eden quoted in his history of Travayles in the East and West Indies, " Sebastian Cabot told me-^h»t he was born in Brystow," etc' See also Edward Haie,s' account of Gilbert's voyage in 1583, in Hacklyt, vol. III. 184. He calls him an "En- glishman born." After all it is not wonderful that Sebastian should have carried off most of the credit of this discovery, since he was a yoiing and active mariner, who subseqiiently distinguished himself not only in England, but in the service of the en- terprizing Ch. V. and thus became known all over Europe to seamen and to literary men in the most advantageous light, whilst his father probably died soon after his first expedition to this continent. *See Robert Fabians, Chronicle, quoted, Hacklyt III., 'SO. t See memoir of Seb. Cabot, 85, quoted, Bancroft I., 12. tThe diversity among writers upon these matters is astonishing, Baptista Ramiisftis :in the account quoted above in note +— p. 557of a conversation held between Galeacius Butigarius, and Cabot himself, makes the latter say "I found the land still continent to the 56 degree under our pole. And seeing that "there the coast turned towara \ffie east, despairing to find a passage, 1 turned back again, &c. and came to that part of the coast which is now called Florida, where my victuals failing, I returned to England, where I found preparation for wars with Scotland, &c. This same Baptista Rariiti- sias says in the preface to the third volume of his navigations, that Sebastian'Cabot wrote to him that be sailed beyond the land of New France, at the charge of Henry VII. of England, imto the latitude of 67 degrees and a half under the North Pole, an-d at the 11th day of June, finding still the open sea without any manner of impediment, he thought to have passed that way to the east, and would have done it, if the mutiny of the shipmaster and ma.ri7iers had not hindered him, and made him reiurn homenmrd from that place. In opposition to this Peter Martyr says in the sixth chapter of his Mrd Decade, that he was stopped by ice— et prim.o tendens ad septentrionem donee HISTORY OF VIRGINIA SS# exists of several Eng-iish voyages having- been made not only to the coast pf North America, but the Levant, the harbors of northern Africa and Bra- A T) r''i9 '^'^^' The visits to the fisheries of Newfoundland hnd become ' ■' ' ^ *" frequent, and the commerce from that source had become of such importance, and to have been the subject of such long and oppressive exactions, slb to require the action of Parliament for their prohibiten. .-; India was still the great object Avith the merchants, and the discovery of An if'T) ^ nearer ]»assage than that offered by the Cape of Good f ,' ■ '^'^ ' Hope, the great desideratum with mariners. The north- western passage had been attempted thrice by the Cabots in vain, a north- eastern expedition was fitted out, and sailed under the command of Wil- io«ghby and Chancellor. Willoughby with his ship's company were found in tlieir vessel frozen to death in a Lapland harbor; Chancellor with his A r> I'-'-'i vessel entered the port of Archangel, and "discovered" the vast ■ . "^"^ empire of Russia, till then unknown to western Europe. — This discovery led to the hope of establishing an intercourse by means of 'A' n irro caravans across the continent to Persia, and thence to the A. U. Ijbtf. distant empire of Cathay. , Elizabeth afforded every encouragement to the maritime enterprises of ker subjects, and especially encouraged the newly established intercourse ;^i jiji't. ^ p with Russia. The hope of discovering a north west passage T^ '-'f ^'^' ^- vvas by no means as yet relinquished. Martin Frobisher, after revolving in his mind the subject for fifteen years, believed that it might be accomplished, and "determined and resolved with himself to go and make full proof thereof," "knowing this to be the only thing in th^ eliam Julio raeiise vastas repererit glaciales moles pelago natantes, et lucem fere per- peluam, tellure tarnen libera, gelu liquefacto: quare coacths fuit uti ait vela verUrt et occidenlem sequi; tendedit que tantum ad meridiem, ut Herculli freti lalitudtnis fere gradus (cqiuirii : ad occidentemque profectus tantum est ut Cuham ftisulam a laev*, longitudine graduum pene parem, habuerit." The autjior further says-." Fa.- miliarem habem domi Cabotum ipsum, et contubernalem interdura," from which on€ would think he ought to know the truth. Francis Lopez de Gomara, a Spaniard, says ■that Cabot .sailed north 58 degrees, and betier,ihsit in tL«e moath oi July, he was stop- ped by cold and ice,- that the days were long, and "in a manner" without any nigla, and the night they had was very clear, that he sailed west, and south to 38 degrees^ and then returned to England. This Spaniard had probably an acquaintance also with Cabot, who resided a long time in Spain, holding the office of Pilot Major.-- ,These last quoted accounts which seem most credibje, are followed by Hackjyt, vol. V, p. 283, Bancroft, vol. I. p. 12. ■ Holmes in American Annal's, vol. I. p. 18, does not meation the. ice, but supposes him to have gone as far N. as 67= 30', and S. as the south of Florida, T\'e find upon re- ference to a note which he makes that hehas been struck with the same difficulties with which we have been contending in this, and gets over the difficulty by the extreme age of Cabot at the date of the conversation and the letter, but nothing short of dotage can account for the inconsistences. We see also, that he confounds the first and second expeditions of the Cabots by supposing the first was never carried into effect, placing the second in 1497, and supposing it conducted by both John and Sebastian Cabot. This at first seemed plausible as the date of what we have supposed, the .second expedition was 13th of Henry VII. and the battle of Bosworth being fouglit August 22, 1485, the I3th year might .seem to embrace June of 1497, but this hypothesis is exploded by re- ference to the statement that on the 11th of June Sebastian Cabot was at 67° 30' N. lat. whilst his map states that the first land discovered by John and Sebastian was on the 24iA of June, which could not of course have been on the same year. Bancrolt's ex- planation of these difficulties seems best, he supposes another voyage to have been made by S. Cabot from England in the reign of Henry VIII. to the north west coast of America, to which he alluded in his conversation and his letter. This idea is strong- \y confirmed by his reference to Hacklyt, v. III. p. 591,2. 5m HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. AyorJd-that ^vas left yet undone, whereby a notable mind might be made fa^ raous and fortunate."* Frobisher Avas too poor to supply himself with the means of carrying his designs into execution, but after much solicitation at court he was patronized by Dudlejr, Earl of Warwick, who supplied him with two small barks, the one of twenty and the other of twenty five tons bur- then, and a pinnace often tons. With this little fleet beset sail, the expedi- tion was entirely unfortunate, one of his barks deserted and returned home, the pinnace went down in a storm, " whereby he lost only four men," with such small vessels and crews did the hardy m.ariners of that day venture to cross the Atlantic. The Admiral's mast was sprung, and the top mast blown overboard by the same storm in which he lost the pinnace, but noth- ing daunted, he persevered, and entered Hudson's bay. The only thing accomplished by the voyage was the taking possession of the cold and bar- ren wilderness in the name of Elizabeth, carrying home some of the gravel and stones, one of the latter of which resembling gold, or probably, having some gold artificially mingled with it after it reached London, caused the gold refiners nearly to go mad, and the merchants to undertake one of the wildest expeditions recorded in the annals of discovery; besides this show of gold, which was pronounced very rich for the quantity, the only other acquisition was a poor native, whose simplicity was imposed upon by the most treacherous device.-^, qntil lie was decoyed to the English vessel, and then seized by force, and carried away from his friends. He bit off. his tongue from despair a)id died soon after his arrival in England fforn icold taken on the voyage. ■; The mania which the siory of the little bit of gold produced in London A D n""/ f^aused a fleet, of several vessels to be fitted out, of which the Q,ueen herself furnished one, to bring home the rich produce of these icy mines,— the ships returned with black earth, but no gold. The spirit of avarice wa^s not to be stopped in her career by a single fai- A D 1578 ^'*^*^' ^ new fleet, of 15 vessels was fitted out, and Martin Frobisher was given the command, a colony was to be plant' ed for the. purpose of working the mines, while 12 vessels were to be sent home with ore. Aft^tr almost iiicr^dible difficulties encountered :amidst storms and "mountains of floating ice on every side," the loss of some ves- .■sels, and the disertion of others, they reached the northern Potosi, and the ships Avere well laden with the black earth, but the colonists being disheart- ened by their hardships declined settling on the coast, and all returnedto England, — we are not informed of the value of the proceeds of the cargo;'.: W^hilst the British Q,uecn and her merchants were indulging themselves in fancies as brilliant and as evanescent as the icebergs Avhich encumbered the scene of the delusion, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a man of insuperable En- ergy and fearless enterprize, formed a desigir of proraoting (he fisheries, and engaging in useful colonization. -.-tl With this view he obtained a patent of the same character with mostarf June 11 1576 ^^.^-^ "^^'^i^h were granted to the early promoters of cofeni^ zation in Amerieca, conferring unbounded privileges upon the proprietor, and guaranteeing no rights to the colonists. Thefirstexpe- *Hacklyt III. 86,— Bancroft 1. 92. This latter -w-riter does credit to otir counfr}'- by the extent of His research, the soundness of his judgment, and the beauty of his style ^e feel no hesitation in taking his opinions whenever the vi'^orks he quotes are not ac- cessible, or tooTiumerctts and voluminous for us'to be able to examine them in our ex- ceedingly limited time HISTORY OF A^IRGmiA. 5*15 A ' tS T"*'n '^'''"'^ "^ which Gilbert had oxpended much of his private ■ '^ '■ fortune failed, from what cause is uncertain. The second expedition undertaken four years afterwards, was still more A r> 1i'9'^ unfortunate, for it lost to the world the gallant, and accom- "^ ■ plished projector of the expedition. Five vessels sailed from Plymouth on Tuesday the 11th of June 1583; two days afterwards the Vice adrPtiral complained of sickness aboard, and returned with the finest ship in the fleet to Plymouth. The admiral nevertheless continued his course with his little squadron and took possession with the feudal ceremo- ny of Newfoundland, to be held by him as a fief of the crown of England, in accordance with the terms of his charter. ;. The looseness of morals displayed by the mariners of that day is truly disgusting, and increases our wonder at the daring of men who could ven- ture so far from home, in such frail barks, with almost a certainty of en- countering on the great highway in their fellow-men, greater perils than were presented by all the terrors of the deep. Robbery by sea was toq common, and often committed in violation of the most sacred obligations, even upon persons engaged in the very act of relieving the distress of the depredators.* Gilbert seems to have bepn cursed with a remarkably riotous and insubordinate company. The sick and disaffected were left at Newr foundland to be sent home with theSwallow, and the Admiral proccedecl with his three remaining barks. On Tuesday the 20th of August they sailed from the harbor of St. John's and on the 29th in about latitude 44 degrees, the largest remaining vessel, by the carelessness of the crew, struck, and went to pieces, and the other barks were forced by a high sea and a lea shore to struggle for their own preservation, which they accomplished with difficulty; afleging at the same time that they could see none of the crew of the wreck floating upon tim- bers, but all seemed to have gone down, when the ship broke up. A tew however escaped to Newfoundland in the ship's pinnace, as was afterwards discovered. This calamity followed by continual storms, in an unknown and shoaly ses, enhanced by an extreme scanlines.s of provisions, and want of clothes and comforts in the two little barks, which yet remained, induced the Admi- ' Auo- '^1 ^^^' ^^ '"'^^ earnest solichation ""of his men to return home- '=* * wards. Sir Humphrey Gilbert was vehemently persuaded by the crew of the Golden Hind to remain with them during the voyage, but^as some malicious taunts had been thrown out by some evil disposoci person accusing him of being afraid of the sea, he chof^.e to continue to sail in his little pinnace the Squirrel, Avhich was burthened beyond her strength. ■ After the vessels had left the Azores to the south, and reached the lati- itude of England, they encountered violent and continued storms. On Mon- day the ninth of September the Squirrel was nearly cast away, but recover- ed, and the Admiral was seen sitting abaft with "a book in his hand, and he-ard to cry out to those in the Hind, " we are as near to heaven. by sea as by land." That same night at 12 o'clock, the Squirrel being in advance her light suddenly disappeared, and her hardy crew with their'gallant com- A^'^D'Sep 2-^ niander sleep forever in the deep. The Hind reached FaT- _• P- '-'-• niouth in safety, but after encountering eminent peril 4.a ttie last moment t : -'-:cT- ♦ See a remarkable instance in Hacklyt, vo\. III., 191. 196, site • tHackiyt, III., 134to202. 642 HISTORY. OF VIRGINIA: . Tbe daring spirit of the mariners of that day is amazing*. Sir Walter Raleigh, the step brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, so far from being in- timidated by the melancholy fate of his relative, or disheartened by the un- protitable and disastrous termination of most of the voyages to America, March 25 1"34 "'^'^'^^'o^^^ io ^'^^ ^^''"7 "^^xt year, an expedition to the coast ' ' ■ of the present United States. He easily obtained one of the usual unlimited patents from Elizabeth, and leaving the cold north with its barren snows, its storms, icebergs, and certain evils, together with its imaginary wealth, he spread his sails for the sweet south, where he was sure to find a fertile soil and a delightful climate, though his ship's compa- ny might not all be enriched by the discovery of gold. - ,. ; On the second of July they founded shoal water, "and smelt so sweet and J I 2 strong a smell, as if they had been in the midst of some delicalg'gar-- ■' ■ den abounding with all kinds of odoriferous flowers." .^ On the thirteenth they entered Ocracock inlet, on the coast of the pre-seut' Julv 1*^ ^^'^'■^ °^ North Carolina, and landed on Wocoken Island. They , •^ ^' commenced an intercourse with the natives, who proved to be bold; confiding, intelligent and honorable,* to their friends, but treacherous, re- vengeful and cruel towards their enemies. '.' "{ilfifjh The English explored a little the surrounding islands, and bays, aiid^^ cj v^tpf^t. y turned home in September, carrying with them two natives;^ " ■ Manteo and Wanchese. The glowing description given by the' adventurers on their return of the beauty of the country, the fertility of the soil, and pleasantness of the climate delighted the Queen, and induced her to name the country of which she had taken possession, Virginia, in com-' memoration of her unmarried life. ■ -' It might be expected that so favorable an account would soon lead fa-ti' , pop new expedition; accordingly another was prepared tor the sut'^eeeding year, consisting of seven vessels. Ralph Lane was appointed by Raleigh, govenor of the colony, which consisted of one hundred and eight persons.! Sir Richard Greenville took command of the fleet, and sevc¥at learned and accomplished men attended the expedition, one of whom has transmitted to posterity many interesting particulars of the nature, ol -^^ jeountry, and the habits, manners, and government of its in habitants. ;{: . .t The Englisii soon began to maltreat the harmless, unpretending, anif T 1 r 1 1 1 J^^r ^''^P^*^ natives, and they on the other hand to grow jealo'us ^ ' ' ■ of the power of the overbearing strangers. They soon learned the inordinate passion of the new comers for gold, and takin^'ad- vantage of their credulity inflicted upon them the labor of many fruitless ex- peditions in search of pretended mines, hoping at the same. time by these divisions to weaken the power of the little colony to such a degree that they might be able to destroy it in detachment; but the English were too cautious for this, and went too short a distance, and in force too powerfutl for the Indians to encounter, with the great disparity of arms. The great- est advantage which accrued from these expeditions, and indeed from the whole attempt at a settlement, was the discovery of Chesapeake bay. The little colony finding no gold and receiving no supplies from Eng"- land had begun to despond, when most unexpectedly Sir Francis Drake • See a very pleasing account of this interesting intercourse in Hacldyt, III. 304; ^c*:- + Bancroft says 108, Robertson 180, Holmes 107. tHariot in Hacklyt, in. 334, 40, HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. "^ arrived, on his return from his exjicdition against the Spaniards, in South America, with a fleet of throe and twenty ships, 'i'he sagacity of Dralce perceived in a moment wliat was necessary for the colony, and his gener- osity supplied them with provisions, vessels, and other things necessary to maintain their position, extend their researches, and if necessary to return to England; but the accomplishment of his purpose was defeated by a violent storm which suddenly arose, and nearly wrecked his whole fleet, driving the vessel of provisions intended tor the colony to sea, and destroying the vessels which had been set apart, to be left for their use. He would have supplied others, but the colony with their governor at their head, earnestly J iq requesting permission to return to England, he complied with '.rj* ,..' their wishes. Thus terminated the first English settlement in America. This little colony during its sojourn with the Indians, had acquired some- thing of their fondness for the use of tobacco, and learned to regard it with almost the same superstitious reverence as a powerful medicinal agent. IJpon their return they introduced the use of this plant into England, and a weed at first disgusting and nauseating to all who use it, has become gra- dually the favorite luxury (and indeed with many a neccssarjr of life) of all classes of society and of both the young and the old throughout the world, and this after e.xperience has proven that in most cases it is an injury r9tljus,'j| than a benefit to the health. A few daj's after Lane's departure, an English vessel arrived on the coast with every necesssary for the colony, but finding it deserted returned home. Sir Richard Grenville arrived soon after with three ships well burnished with stores, for the colony, but not finding it, he also returned, leaving fif^- teen men on Roanoke Island, to keep possession in the names of Great Britain.* ^ |-. I'ST ^^^ genius of Sir Walter Raleigh was not of a nature to succumb to slight failures, or ordinary difficulties. The suc- ceeding year anocher colony was despatched to settle in Virginia, and that they might consider their settlement permanent and Virginia their home, many persons with wives and familias wei-e sent. 7 -7 tcQ-y A charter of incorporation Avas granted for a town to be rall- 1,;'- ed the Lity of Kaleigh, a name revived m aK not until another A D 1590 y^^ '^^*^ elapsed, that White was sent in quest of his cub- jects and his daughter. When he arrived the colony was gone, an inscription on the baric of a tree, indicating Croatan as the place whither they had gone, was the last re- cord of their existence seen by a civilized eye. Conjecture has pointed to an amalgamation with the tribe of Hatteras Indians as the history of their destiny, and old Indian traditions and the physical characteristics of that tribe are said to confirm the idea, but whilst humanity may indulge a hope, credulity itself must entertain a doabt of the truth of the hypothesis. White returned to England as soon as he found out that the colony wa.s gone, and Raleigh is said to have sent five several times in vain, to search for his liege-men, but no tidings were ever received of their existence or -their fate. Thus terminated the attempts at settlement on the coast of North Carolina, then called Virginia, the scene next opens upon the broad bosoni of the "mother of the waters."* CHAPTER 11. ■StTTtEMENT AT JAMES TOWN SUFFERINGS OF THE COTONISTS AC ■ VENTURES OF SMITH. New Company raised — its charter, — James Town^^—MachiTuriions against Smith, — Difficulties of the colony, — Smith taken prisoner — his release, — Arrival of Newport, — Discovery of earth believed to be gold, — Depar- ture of Newport, — Survey of the Chesapeake and its icaters by Sriiith,— Smith made President, — Second arrival of Neicport, — Judicious con- duct of Smith, — Neil} Charter, — New arrival of emigrants, — Badness of the selection, — New settlements, — Accident to Smith-^-his depariJA,re, — his character. We have now approached the period m which the British were destined to make a permanent settlement m Am.erica. England already possesSfed a population considered redundant, in consequence of the inadequate rheans of support afforded by her limited commerce, and inefficient agriculture. The pacific and timid character of James I. threw out of employment many of the brave spirits who had served under Elizabeth, and left them the choice of only two means of acquiring wealth or distmction, — and these were either to draw a mercenary sword in the quarrels 6f strangers, or to se.rve their king and country by transplanting their energy and enterprise to a new world. Bartholomew Gosnold chose the latter. He was a person of Ta«k and intelligence, and had already acquired distinction by his courage and skill in arms. He solicited his "friends for aid for m.any years in vain, but ♦This is the translation usually given of the Indian name " Cbesapeak''-bul Chilly Mcintosh, the celebrated Georgia Creek Chief, now removed west ol the Mississippi -with his tribe, told the writer another meaning which he said was the true one, bat which the writer has forgotten ; but which was however not so unlike the one given above but that the same word might well convey the two different impressions, in dif- rent Idioms of the same language, 69 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. at lefigth attracted the alteiUion of the distinguished adventurer Capt, John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield, a merchant, and Robekx HxTNT, a clerg-ymcn, who after taking a year for reflection entered zealous- ly into his projects. Hothing however coald be eflected until pctsons of Wealth and distlnc- {ion could be found to patronise by their favor, and aid by their capital the enthusiasm of the adventurers. Sir Ferdinand Gorges, a man of wealth, rank, and influence, had been informing himself by conversation with several American Indians who had been carried to England by pre- vious voyages, and by every other means in his power of the nature of the country ; and from the information he obtained became exceedingly anxious to possess a domain on the western side of the Atlantic. He per- suaded Sir John Popham, lord chief justice of England, to unite in his view.'?. Richard Hacklyt, the distinguished compiler of narratives of maritime adventures, and one of the assignees of Raleigh, had not yet re- linquished his hopes of a permanent settlement in America, notwithstand- ing the frequent previous discouraging failures, and cheerfully joined in this new scheme of American colonization. The exertions of these ener- getic and distinguished individuals speedily raised a company, and procured a charter from King James. " As this was the first charter under which a permanent settlement was made, it may be worth attention to notice some of its prominent features. A "l in irnfi '^^^^ charter bears date on the tenth of April sixteen -^^^ ' ' hundred and six.* It grants all the country from four and thirty to five and forty degrees of north latitude, and all islands within one hundred miles of the coast. This immense extent of country was divided by the charter between two companies, for the more speedy accomplishment of their purpose, — which have beeh ever since designated as the London and the Plymouth companies. The London company wished to establish a colony between the 34th and 41st degrees of lati- tude, and the Plymouth between the 38th and 45th, and (he grants were made in conformity to their wishes. But as there Avas room for collision between the 38th and 41sf degree of latitude, the colony which first settled was to possess the land for fifty miles north and south of its location, and the other colony was forbidden to settle within one hundred miles of the colony first planted. Each of the colonies was to be governed by a coun- cil of thirteen! persons, under the management and direction of a council of thirteen in England, which was to regulate both colonies. The council in the colonies were to govern according to laws, ordinances and instruc- tions prescribed by the king himself The colonies had full power given to search for and work mines, paying to the king a fifth part of the gold and silver obtained, and a fifteenth of the copper ; and they were further allowed to coin money to pass current in the colonies. They were alsp empowered to levy a duty of two and a half per cent upon the property of the king's subjects trading within their limits, and five per cent upon all others so trading, for the use of the colony for twenty one years, and afler- wards for the use of the king. Certain articles of necessity were allowed to be carried to the colonies * See this charter preserved in Stith, — Henning's Stat, at Large, p. 60, and in T- Rjnier. t It appears afterwards that only seven were appointed ; no reason is assigned for the change. HISTORY OF VIRGTNTA. r,47 .1 fVbiTl any pavf of the king's dominions free of duty for the first Bevew years; and the colonists and their descendants were to have forever the privilefi^es, franchises, and immunities of native horn Englishmen. The English council was to have power to nauie the persons who were to compose the colonial council, and the latter elected their own president, and supplied vacancies in their own body. The religion of the church of England, was established ; lands were to descend as at common law : man- slaughter, adultery, and dangerous tumults and seditions Avere to be pun- ished with death. The president and council constituted the supreme tri- bunal in all cases. The properly of the colonists was to continue in joint stock for five years. Gae hundred and nine years from the discovery of the North American D m irnr continent by Cabot, three small vessels whose joint tonnage Uec. 1 J, lt>UD. aj^^ounted to only IGO tons burthen, sailed for the coast of Virginia with a colony of 105 men. They were detained for six weeks in sight of England by adverse winds. The voyage was prosecuted under the command of Captain Newport, who sailed by the old route of the Ca- naries and the West India Islands ; thus consuming the valuable time and provisions of the colonists in a voyage unnecessarily long and circuitous. He did not arrive in the Chesapeake until the 2Gth of April, Dissensions had sprung up in the course of the voyage, which there Avas no competent authority to quell, as the absurd alfectation of diplo- matic m)^stery on the part of King James had sealed up his instructions and the names of those who were to constitute the council, in a box which was not to be opened until after they arrived in Virginia. The southern cape of the Chesapeake received the name of Henry, and the northern that of Charles, after the names of the sons of James. Aiter landing on cape Henry, the box of instructions was opeued, and Smith* was found to be named as one of the council, but he was excluded by the jeah das malignity of the rest. Wingfield was chosen President. ' ■ Soon after passing the capes they reached the mouth of a large and beautiful river which they named after their sovereign James, but which the natives called Powhatan. About fifty miles from the mouth of this , , o I'iver they selected a spot for their settlement, to which they gave May lo. ^^^ ^^j^g ^|. J^^,„^gs Toio7i. There could not perhaps he a company more unfitted for the duty which it had to perform than that which now commenced the foundation of the British empire in America. The colonists were in a wilderness surrounded by savages, without a forti- fication to repel their incursions, possessed of a scanty supply of provis- ions, without means of planting, — and without a habitation, to protect them from the weather, save such as they might themselves erect; yet in the whole company there were but foii>r carpenters, and twelve laborers, to jifty-foiir gcnthmtn. At first however this rare collection of pioneers fell to work with spirit, each to his appropriate duty. The president who seems to have been a very weak man and ill-suited for his station, was too jealous of his own men to allow exercises at arms, or a fortification to be erected; and the only protection provided was a sort of half moon formed of the boughs of trees by the exertions of PCendaU. Newport, Smith, and twenty others were sent to discover the head of the river.. In - *'The council named was Bart. GosnoUl, John Smith, Etiward Whigfield, Chiislo- pher Newport, John Ralclili'e, John Martin and George Kendall. n^ HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. six days they arrived at a town called Powhatan, belonging to king Pow- hatan, situated at the falls of the river, near the site ot the present city of Richmond,— they were kindly treated by the Indians. When the expe- dition returned, ttiey found that James Town had been attacked by the savages, and 17 men wounded, and a boy killed. They were attacked while at Avork, and their arms out of order; so that the whole w-ere only saved from destruction by the timely aid of the vessels. After this expe- ■rience of his folly the President permitted the place to be fortified, and the labor necessary to effect this, with so small a force, whilst it was necessary at the same time to guard their workmen by day, to watch by night, to prepare ground for corn, and lumber to relade the ships, may be better conceived than described. After a stay of six weeks, Newport prepared to depart, and the council affecting a tender regard for the character of Smith, whom they had falsely accused of a treacherous design to usurp royal authority in the colony, and kept out of his seat in the council under these charges, now proposed that he might not be utterly ruined by a trial, to send him home to the council to be disposed of as it might think proper. ■But Smith conscious of innocence of the absurd charge, boldly defied them, and demanded a trial. His accusers suborned witnesses, who instead of answering the expectations of their employers, only exposed the subor- nation. The company were so incensed at the infamous conduct of his accusers, that they condemned the President to pay him £200, which, when j-eceived, ne generously threw^ into the common stock. New- port sailed on the 15th of June, leaving 100 men in Virginia. The condition of the nien thus left was the most melancholy that can well be imagined. Tiiey consisted ior the most part of men entirely unused to labor, or hardship ; who were doomed to encounter every kind of difficulty, in the midst of summer, in a hot and sickly climate. In ten days from the departure of Newport scarce ten men could stand from sick- ness and v\'-eaknes.s. T^^e food was scanty in quantity, and of the .most unwholesome quality. The allowance of each man was half a pint of wheat, and as much badey, boiled in .water, which was served out from. a common kettle, and wMch having- been closely stowed in the ship's hold for 26 weeks in a warm and moist atmosphere, was reduced to a condition any thing but tempting. Smith, the narrator of these suffering-s, humor- ously remarks, "If we had been as free from all sins as from gluttony and drunkenness, we might have been canonized for saints." As mig^ht i>e supposed in such an unfortunate state of affairs great mortality prevailed, and fifty were buried between May and September, and those that survived relied principally for their subsistence upon sturgeon and sea crabs. The suffering in this state of affairs must have been greatly aggravated by the knowledge, that the President was indulging himself in every luxiiry which the stores afforded, — and his detection in an attempt to escape in toe pinnace, from the suffering colony. This last act of treachery was more than the little colony could endure, and weak as it was, it deposed him^ and Kendall his accomplice. Ratcliffe was made President. The council do not seem to have exercised the power granted them in their charter, of filling up vacancies, and it was now reduced to three, — Ratclijfe, Smith, and Martin; Gosnold had perished, Newport sailed for England, and Wingfield and Kf.ndall had been deposed. The President and Martin being unpopular men, and very deficient in judgment and energy, committed the control .of affairs nearly entirely to: HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 649 Smith, who by his example and his skill in managing men, speedily reduc- ed aft'airs to order, induced the men to work, and provided oomlortable ha- bitations. His next object was to obtain a supply of corn Ibr the irrmiediate necessity of the people, which he did effectually by frightening the people of Kecoughtan, an Indian village situated near the site of the present town of Hampton, — after first trying every means to purchase their provision. Smith now constituted the only hope not only for the existence of the colo- ny as such, but for the lives of the individuals of whom it consisted. Their recent wretchedness was not a sulHcient warning to them to preserve order, jand to hueband their resources with prudence, now that plenty was provid- ed, but they lived as wastefully as if they liad boundless magazint?s at com- mand. Smith seeing this, caused the pinnace to be fitted up for a cruise, and in the mean time availed himself of the opportunity to become ac- quainted with the country lying on the Chickahominy. During one of these temporary absences of Smith, Wingfield and Keu- dall, who had lived in disgrace since they were deposed, kiid a plot to car- ry off the pinnace to England, which the fortunate return of Smith before they had time to effect their purpose, prevented. But not even then were they defeated, without firing on the pinnace, by which means Kendall jost his life. ?■:■ Smith having gained possession of the pinnace, ascended the Chicka- hominy, and procured an abundance of corn. Winter coming on soon af- ter afforded an ample supply of game, and wild fowl, so that plenty Avas once more restored, and thought no longer entertained of going to England. Little souls cannot look upon the greatest exploits of nobler creatures, without suffering a captious and jealous malignity to detract from their merit. The very beings whom Smith had preserved by his g-ood conduct, now murmured against him their absurd complaints — because he had not discovered the head of the Chickahomiu}', although he had returned only to supply them with food. His spirit could not braok reproach, howevev undeserved, for any thing which was yet possible to be accomplished. He ag^in ascended the Chickahominy as iar as was practicable in the pinnace, and leaving it in a position which he supposed to be safe, he advanced yet higher, with two whites and two Indians in a canoe. He left his men with his little boat, and taking only his Indian guide, advanced into the fbresl witli his gun to procure them provision. Unfortunately, in disobedience to his orders, the men in the pinnace went ashore, and one of them was taken by the Indians, who learned from their prisoner whither the Captain had gone. The savages pursued him, and slew the men left with the canoe whilst they slept. They next sought Smith, but found him no easy prey, tar tying his guide to his arm as a buckler to keep off' their arrows, he de- fended himself so gallantly that they dare not approach him, until falling accidentally into a marsh, he was at length forced by cold and fatigue to surrender. The savages conducted him to their Chief Opechankanough, king of Pamunkee. Smith endeavored to impress the king with a high idea of his powers, by presenting him with a mariner's compass, explaining its uses, and instructing him in the rudiments of astronomy, by explaining the motion of the earth, its shape, and the motion of the sun, moon and planets; truths \vhich it is difficult to believe he could make the savage comprehend, especially as he had but little knowledge of their language. It is. more probable that the king was pleased with the ivory case of the compass,- and the mysterious play of the needle, which- he could se« but not touch, and 550 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. which moved without an apparent cause. Accordingly, we find when hi§ men had tied Smith to a tree and Avere about to slay him, the king did not attempt to prevent it by explaining the motion of the earth around the sun, but merely held up the compass, the sight of which, seems to have befen sufficient to disarm their wrath. For six or seven weeks Smith was led about in triumph by these simple people, and exhibited to the tribes between the James and Potomac rivers, during the whole of which time he was in hourly apprehension of being put to death; but was generally well treated, and provided with most of the luxuries which their simple state afforded. At length he was brought be- fore their Emperor, Powhatan, who received him with all the formal pomp and state known to his savage court. A long consultation was held by the council there ass(-mbled, upon the disposition lo be made of him, which ter- minated unfavorably. He was seized by a number of the savages, and his head laid upon two great stones which had been brought there for the pur- pose. His executioners had already raised their clubs to dash out his brains, and thus at once end his toil and difficulties, and cut ofT the only hopfe of the colony, when an advocate appeared, as unexpected as would have been the appearance of an angel sent immediately from heaven to ask his release. 7'his was Pocahontas, the Emperor's favorite daughter, who generously stepped forth and entreated with tears, that Smith might be spared. Arid when she found this unavailing with the inexorable judges, she seized his head, and placed it under her own, to protect it from the blows. This sight so moved Powhatan, that he permitted Smith to live, intending to retain him to make trinkets and utensils for his family and himself. But a few days afterwards Powhatan told hini they would be friends again, and sent him back to Jamestown, wiih an ofFer of a large district of country in ex- change for two oreat guns, and a grindstone, but the party who were to carry these things found them so heavy, and were so much terrified by the effect of the guns when discharged at a tree, that they were well satisfied to return without theai, having received a few paltry baubles and trinkets. Smith's return a^ain pre*«nled a party from running off with the pinnace; which so incensed them that they laid a plot to slay him, by a mock trial for the death of the two men he had left in the canoe, and who were slain by the savages, but he was too prompt for the conspirators; whom he seized and kept close prisoners until he had an opportunity of sending them to England for trial. The colon v was now only preserved from perishmg by the\indness of Pocahontas, who brought ample supplies every four or five ■days. During this time the liale colony had not been forgotten by the company in England, but Newport soon after his return was again despatched m compa'^iy with another vessel commanded by Francis Nelson, furnished with all things which could be imagined necessary either for the crews or the eolonistsr Nelson when in sight of Cape Henry was driven by a storm so far to sea, that he was obliged to land in the West Indies to refit and re- new his supply of water. Newport arrived without an accident. Before the arrival of this supply Smith had establislied a regular intercourse with the savao-es, and bought their provisions at moderate prices, which the hifrh estimation in which he was held by them, and the awe which his name inspired, enabled him to fix for himself But now the poor colonists were so grateful to the mariners who had come to their relief that they were perlnitted to trade at such price as they thought proper, by which ritStOUY OF VinCJlNlA. 551 nionns il followrd in a short tiiiK- lliat a pound ofooppcM- would not piirchase what had In loro soJd for an ounce. Nt,\\ port thought proper to jiay a visit of ceremony to Powhatan, who received the party with <,neat dignify and slate. During- tliis visit a contest of wits took place between the two par- ties in which Powhatan evinced infinitely greater diplomatic skill than Ckiptain Newport, and by working upon his pride was very near consum- mating a highly advanlageous bargain; but he in his turn was out-witted by the ingemiity of Smith, who having passed many bawblcs before his eyes, and finding that his attention was attracted by some blue beads, af- fected to value them exceedingly, and intimalid that they were not to be worn except by the greatest personages. This inllamed the desire of the Emperor to such an extent that he cheerfully gave several hundred bushels of corn for a pound or two of these rare jewels, whose beautiful color re- sembled the pure ether of heaven. The same stratagem was afterwards played olf by Smith with equal success upon Opcchankanough, king of Pamunkee. Unfortunately when Smith and Newport returned to Jamc,<^town with this new supply, and added Jt to their former store, it took fire and the greater part was consumed ; together with many of their dry thatched dwel- lings, a portion of tJieir paljisade fortifications, and some of their arms, bed- ding anil apparel. Instead of returning home with all possible expedition Newport remained 14 weeks in the colony, consuming the precious provision which should have been applied to the support of the unfortunate individuals he was to leave behind him. Unfortunately too he had brought out some gold refin- ers in his ship, who having discovered a glittering earth near Jamestown thought it gold, and all hands were diverted from their useful toil for the purpose of lading his ship with this worthless article. To such an extent did this mania prevail, that Smhh says, "there was no talk, no hope, no work, but dig gold, wash gold, refine" gold, load gold." Newport having completed his cargo at length returned home. Soon after his departure the PhcDuix, the vessel of Nelson, which had been gHren up for lost arrived, with all his men in safety, and a good stock of provisions, which he freely and fairly gave to the colonists to the extent of his ability. The next sub- ject, for consideration, was the return cargo, — to obtain which the Presi- dent wished Smith to examine the commodities to be found in the country above the falls, — others wished the lading to be of the same gold with which Newport was freighted, — but Smith more prudent than ehher suc- ceeded in loading the Phcenix with cedar, which was the first available cargo sent from Virginia to England. Smith accompanied the Phoiuix as far as Cape Henry in a small open lunc 2 1G08 '^^'"S"^ .^^'^''^ }'* '"''"> ^^'^'^ which equipment he proposed to ac- complish his long cherished obji-ct of exploring the Chesa- peakand its tributary waters. It is not our purpose to follow him through his two wonderful voyages, undertaken for this purpose, but we will merely present an outline of his course from the pen of an able modern author,"* from w^hom we have before quoted. "Two voyages, made in an open boat, with a few companions, over whom his superior courage, rather than his station as a magistrate, gave him authority, occupied him about three months of the summer, and embraced a navigation of nearly three thousand ♦Baacrort, Hast. U. States, vol. I. p. liy. 552 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. miles. The slenderness of his means has t)een contrasted with the dignity and utility of his discoveries, and his name has been placed in the highest rank with the distinguished men, who have enlarged the bounds of geo- graphical knowledge, and opened the way by their investigations for colo- nies and commerce. He surveyed the bay of the Chesapeake to the Sus- quehannah, and left only the borders of that remote river, to remain for some years longer the fabled dwelling place of a giant progeny. The Pa- tapsco was discovered and explored, and Smith pi-jjbably entered the harbor of Baltimore. The majestic Potomac, Avhich''at its mouth is seven miles broad, especially invited curiosity; and passing beyond the heights of Mount Vernon and the City of Washington, he ascended to the falls above George- town. Nor did he merely explore the river and inlets. He penetrated the territories, established friendly relations with the native tribes, and laid the foundation for future beneficial intercourse. The map which he prepared and sent to the company in London is still extant, and delineates correctly the great outlines of nature. The expedition was worthy the romantic age of American history." The map is indeed astonishingly accurate, we can- not forbear adding the corroborating testimony of the distinguished Robert- son* upon this subject, which is also quoted and approved by Marshall :t " He brought with him an account of that large portion of the American continent now comprehended in the two provinces of Virginia and Mar.V- land, so full and exact, that after the progress of information and research for a century and a half, his map exhibits no inaccurate view of both couii- tries, and is the original upon Avhich all subsequent descriptions have h'e&n formed." When Smith returned to Jamestown he found that little had been done, Sent 7 IfiOS ^^^ ^ whole summer, which was a season of plenty, was '" ' ' ■ wasted in idleness by the folly and imbecility of the President whose conduct was so outrageous that the company had been at last forced to depose and imprison him. Smith was now elected President, and his energetic conduct speedily Sent 10 '^'"^"S''^^ affaiTS into good order, and repaired as far as possible the ^' ' injuries occasioned by the misconduct of his predecessor. Soon after Smith's election Newport again arrived, with the preposterpus ' order, supposed to have been procured by his own representations, not to return without a lump of gold, discovery of a passage to the south sea, or one of the lost company sent out by Sir Walter Raleigh. He also ahsurdly brought some costly articles for the royal household of Powhatan, which served only to inflate the pride, without conciliating the affection of that Prince. Some Poles and Dutchmen were also brought for the purpose of manufacturing, pitch, tar, glass, ashe.g, &c. which would have been well,enotigh if the colony had been in a condition always to defy famine, but which it Avas impossible to accomplish now, w^hen every man's exertions wereyne- cessary to procure a sufficiency of food. Notwithstanding Smith's remon- strances, Newport insisted upon his trip of discovery above the ialrs of James river, for the purpose of discovering a rout to the south sea, althotlgh Powhatan had assured them that the story they had heard of there being a sea in that direction was utterly false. The party returned as SmJth had predicted, disappointed and disheartened. Since this project had failed * See Robertson's Hist, of Va. p. 71. + Marshall's Introduction to life of Washington, p. 41. HISTORY. OF vmamU. 658 Smith having first procured a supply of provisions which Newport and the rest witli all iheir vain boasting and their costly presents had tailed to do/ and knowing that it was as impossible to find a lump of gold, or one ol Raleigh's company as it was to find the south sea on James river; set him- self to work to supply a cargo of tar, pitch, boards, ashes and such articles as they had it in their power to procure, although with great difliculty and labor. So efTeclually did he exert himself, and so much authority had he acquired over the delicate gentlemen under his controul, whose tender hands blistered with the use of the axe, that in a short time he had provided a suflicient cargo, for Captain Newport, who at length departed, leaving two hundred souls in the colony. By the return of the vessel Smith wrote to the council a letter detailing the cause of their mishaps, assuring them that they need not expect a sudden acquisition of wealth, and that nothing was to be obtained but by labor. He cotnplainerl of the want of judgment and economy in the expenditure for the benefit of the colony, which pre- vented them from reaping an advantage of greater value than a hundred pounds judiciously expended would purchase, from an actual outlay by the company of two or three thousand, lie also especially complained of the Jiabils and character of the men sent out, and entreated them when they sent again, rather to send "but thirty carpenters, husbandmen, gardeners, fishermen, blacksmiths, masons and diggei's up of ti;ee-roofs, well j)rovided, than a thou^and such as they had, for unless they could both lodge and feed them, they would peri.'^h with want before they could be made goodfol any thing." From the departure of the ship, until the next arrival the- men Avere only A n ifiOQ pi'<^servcd from perishing by the most active and unremittiog A. U. .ibUJ. g,.gjjJQj^3 Q^ their President,' the detail of whose conduct in his intercourse with the savages, and his management of the ill-assorled, disor- derly, turbulent spirits under his controul, is one of thl-Vnofe't interesting sto- ries in history, and proves him to have been -a mail oi^extiao-rdinary. abili- ties.. " ;.■.., . ■"■- -'^^-'i.'' -'- ■- ^■'^"- ■■"■ •- ., Although the fond antic!pation3'-of'the'yirginig;^c^mpan3r had been en- tirely disappointed, a spirit seems to^-iiaveprfe^'aiiftfHvhich ^vas ra'.b ex dis- posed to surmount all difficulties' by "increased exertion, than to suicumb to .the accumulated misfortunes Avhich had already been enoouHter^d. The company seemed to have perceived their errov in ejq>--;cting a sudden atquisition of wealth from their .American possessions; and the defects in the.govcrnment established by the fiirst chailer. To renKdy these evils a M- ■ 9-^ tfiOQ "®^^ charter* v/as obtained, in which; many individuals, May Z6, tbU. . ,^^^^ corporate bodies Aveie included, of ^reat.weaith,- power and reputation. . • • ^ By the new charter the power which had before been reserved by the king was now transferred to the company itself; which was to have the power of choosing the supreme council in England, and of legislating in all cases for the colon}'-. The powers of the governor were enlarged tiom those of a mere president of the council, to supreme and absolute, civ.ii and military controul: the instructions- and regulations of the supreme council feing his only guide or check. There can be no dou-bt but that this was the only praeticable government which could bs cfTered to a cglony in the situation and composed of the materials which then existed in Virginia. •See Stith and Hennmg. 70 §$4 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. The members of the council had only been so many petty tyrants, — the in- dolent and weak thwarting the exertions of the industrious and the intelli- gent, and the cowardly and factious disputing the authority, and impugning the motives of such as were brave and honorable. In truth whenever any thing good had thus far been done it was by the exercise of absolute author- ity by a mind superior to the rest, and whatever had gone wrong might with truth be attributed almost as much to the opposing views of the various members of the council, as to the disposition of some to do wrong. Lord De La Ware received the appointment of governor for life under the new charter, and an avarice which would listen to no possibility of de- feat, and Avhich already dreamed of a flourishing empire in America, sur- rounded him with stately officers, suited by their titles and nominal char- ges to the dignity of an opulent kingdom. The condition of the public mind favored colonization ; swarms of people desired to be transported ; and the adventurers with cheerful alacrity contributed free-will offerings. The ividely diffused enthusiasm soon enabled the company to despatch- a fleet of nine vessels, containing more than five hundred emigrants.* Newport wag made Admiral, and was joint commissioner with Sir Thomas Gates and Sir George Somers to administer the affiirs of the colony until the arrival of the governor. Bat these three individuals, with a ceremonious punctilio characteristic of littJti minds, seeking that distinction from artificial positions in society, which they cannot obtain by their own merit, could not agree in a contest for precedence^ and>hence were compelled as a compromise, all to go in the same ship. Thus exposing the colony to all the danger of anarchy rather than that one should appear by the ship he occupied to be a greater man than the other. i They accordingly embarked with their commission, their directions and much of the provision in the Sea Venture. When near the coast of Vir- ginia they encountered a violent storm which destroyed one small vessel, and drove the Sea Venture so far to sea that she stranded on the rocks of the Bermudas. Seven ships arrived in safety. When Smith heard of the arrival of this immense fleet, he at first sup- posed it belonged to Spain, and was sent to take possession of the colony, he accordingly made all things ready with his usual promptness and energy of character, to give them a warm reception, and little fear was entertained of the result. Smith had by this time by his good conduct brought the savages so completely into subjection by their admiration for his qualities and fear of his power, that they had become subjects and servants, planting and working for him as he required ; and now when it was thought he was about to be attacked by the. Spaniards they lent him all the aid in their power. The company in England had not attended to the wise advice of Smith in the selection of their colonists, for it must be remarked that he had no friend at home, whilst his enemies were suffered there to make their own representations. In the new batch of ofRcers Ralcliffe and Archer were sent back, who had been sent home in disgrace for their idle, dissolute and mutinous conduct. They prejudiced the minds of the other officers so much against Smith, on the voyage, that they hated him mortally before they had seen him. The historian of the times regrets that the fleet was ♦Bancroft U. S. I., p 153 and authorilies there quoted. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. W* not composed of Spaniatds instead of English men, and thinks it would have been better for the colony.* Tile newly imported "unruly gallants, packed hither l)y their fritnds to escape ill destinies," taking sides with liatclitie, Archt-r and their conkde- rates against the President, whose commission they affected to consider aS having been superceded by the new commission, conducted themselves very riotously, and refused to remain in subordination to any authority. Smith bore this for some time patiently, expecting every moment the arri- val of the new commission, and wishing when that event happened to de- part lor England, and leave the scene of his great sufferings and glorious exertions; being willing to quit the service of a company who could so unceremoniously dispense with his authority for the purpose of putting individuals over him who had no claims upon them, and who knew nothing of the management of the colony. Fortunately the commissioners had been stranded and did not arrive, and Smith could no longer suffer affairs to remain in confusion. After his resolution was taken he quickly laid by the heels the most factious, who had been perpetually plotting his des- truction and engaging in all kinds of mischief, until he could have leisure to do ihem justice. The number still remaining at large in James Town being too great for that position, and more than could be well supported or easily managed, — he despatched West with a hundred and twenty of the best men he could select to form a settlement at the falls ; and Martin with nearly as many niore to Nansemond ; providing them with a fair proportion of food and other necessary articles. Martin managed badly; — his jealous fears in- duced him to attack the savages in his neighborhood who had treated him well, and take possession of a large quantity of their corn and other pro- perty, — whilst his cowardly caution or criminal tenderness permitted them to rally and in their turn attack his men with impunity, to kill and wound several and retake all they had lost. He sent to James Town for a rein- forcement, which he did not employ when he received, but hastened thither himself, cowering under the protection of Smith's jirowess, and teaving his men to their fate. "- r^-^'^ . ■ > The President set out for the falls a few days after West had departed, and found that he had located himself m an exceedingly inconvenient stn tion, subject to inundation, and surrounded by other intolerable inconven- iences. He offered a fair proposition to Powhatan, for the purchase' of his place called Powhatan, which he was willing- to afcept, biit the disorderly spirits he had sent thither, who were dreaming that the country imme'di'itr ly above them was full of gold, to which they uashed no one to'have a'ccers but themselves, refused the place, or to ratify the contract, despising alike his kindness and his authority. The President with his five men Avent boldly among them, and seized the ringleaders of the mutiny, but the whole number of a hundred and twenty gathering in upon him, forced him to retire, but not without seizing one of their boats, with which he * "Had it so been we had been happy ; for we would have trusted them but as our foes, where receiving them as our countrymen and friends, they did what they could to murthur our President, to surprise the store, the fort, and our lodgings, to usurp the government, ard make us all their servants and slaves, till they could consume us and our remembrance; and indeed rather to supplant us than supply us, as master William Box, an honest gentleman in this voyage relateth." — "Narrative of Witliam Potts, clerk of the councell, William Tankard and G, P." in Smith's Hist, of Va, pa. 243. "i^t HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. look possession of the ship, iii which their provision was lodg-ed. For- tunately for Smith he was sustained b)^ the mariners who had learned his character from his old soldiers, and their own observations of his conduct, as well as by several of the officers who had learned the error of their first prejudices, deserted his adversaries, and become his firm friends. The Indians eame to Smith, whom they considered as their friend and protec- tor,complaining bitterly of the maltreatment of the party at the falls, stat- ~ing that they were worse than their old enemies the Monocans, from whom it was the dutj'- of the party to protect them, and seeing- thar turbulent disobedience, they ofl^ered their aid to chastise them. Smith remained nine days longer trying to heal these differences, and to convince them of the absurdity of their "guilded hopes of the South sea mines." But finding all in vain he set out for James Town. Such visionary and disor^ierly persons were the first civilized inhabitants of the present polished, intelli- gent and hospitable city of Richmond. No sooner was Smith's voyage commenced down the river, than the savages attacked those he left behind him, and slew many and so frightened the rest that they suftered the pris'on- ers they held in custody to escape. The terrified wretches fled for safety to Smith, whose ship had grounded, and submitted without stipulation to his mercy. He seized six or seven of the lingleaders, and imprisoned them ; the rest he placed in the savage fort Powhatan, which from t4w beauty of its position, the excellence of its houses and fortifications, and Other advantages, was called Non-such. He also satisfied the savage.". This fair prospect was again marred by the imbecility of West,- wholisteil- ed to the deceitful tales, and whining entreaties of the prisoners, and re- leased them, wliich again threw all things into disorder; the evil disjiosf^d being the more encouraged in their mutinous conduct now by the posses- sion of their provisions and stores which had been returned to them at the time of their previous submission. They abandoned Non-such and re- turned to their former inconvenient station at West's fort. Smith finding it impossible to restore tranquility, again set sail down the river. In his progress an unfortunate accident occurred Avhich deprived the colony of his services, and was near depriving him of life. His powder bag accidentally exploded whilst he was sleeping, and tore the flesh from his body and thighs in a horrible manner. The pain was so acute that he threw himself into the river to cool the burning sensation, and was near drowning before he could be recovered. He had yet to go nearly one hun- dred miles in this situation before he could reach a surgeon, or have any soothing application applied to his wound. When he returned to James Town, the time for the trial of Ratcliffe and Archer was approaching, and these worthies fearing the result, hired an assassin to murder him in his bed, but the heart of the wretch failed him, ere he could fire the fatal shot. Failing in this, their next hope was to save their lives by possessing themselves of the government, but in this they were disappointed by Smith, who having in vain urged all those he thought most worthy to accept the Presidency, resigned it to Mr. Percy, who was about to sail for England but was induced to stay under the pre- sent embarrassing circumstances, to prevent the supreme control of the colony from falling into the hands of the miscreants who aspired to it. Smith finding himself disabled by his wound, the pain of which almost deprived him of his reason, and seeing that there was not sufficient surgi- cal skill in the colonj' to restore him, determined to depart for England. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 557 He Well knew that in his disabled state tlie colony was no place for him, for it had rociuired his utmost exertion in health to suppress faction at liomc, keep the Jndians in awe, and by the most unceasing activity supply the colony with pi'ovision. He departed under the most mortifyiufr cir- cumstances ; — "his commission was suppressed he knew not whj-, liiinself and soldiers to be rewarded he knew not how, and a new commission granted they knew not to whom." After his determination was known the ships which were to have departed the next day were retained three weeks, whilst the mutinous captains were perfecting some colorable charge to send home against him. Never had the colony sustained such a loss. His conduct and his character will be best given in the language of those wlio knew him best. A wrher who was with him in his troubles speak- ing of the attempt to usurp the government immediately before his depar- ture, says : — "But had that unhappy blast not happened, he would qiiickl}' have qualified the heat of those Immors, and factions, had the ships but once left them and us to our fortunes; and have made the provision from among the savages, as we neither feared Sjianiard, .savage, or famine; nor would have left Virginia nor our lawful authority, but at as dear a price as we had bought it and paid for it. What shall I say but thus, we lelt him, that in all his proceedings, made justice his first guide, and experience his second, even haling baseness, sloth, pride, and indignity, more than any danger, — that never allowed more for himself, than his soldiers with him; that upon no danger would send them where he would not lead them him- self; — that would never sec us want what he cither had, or could by any means get us; — that would rather want than borrow, or starve than not pay ; — that loved action more than words, and hated falsehood and covet- ousness worse than death ; whose adventures were our lives, and whose loss our deaths." 558 CHAPTER III. PROGRESS OF THE COLONY MASSACRE OF 1622 DISSOLUTION OF THE LONDON COMPANY. State of the colony at Smithes departure, — its conduct and consequent suffen?igs, — Arrival of Gates — of Lord Dc La Ware, — his departure. Arrival of Dale, — Martial law, — Gates Governor, — Grants of land to individuals, — New charter, — Marriage of Pocahontas, — Friendly relations toith the Indians,— Subjection of Port Royal and Manhat- tan, — Cultivation of Tobacco, — Tenure of lands, — Tyranny of Ar gall, — Propriety of reform in the government, — Yeardley Governor, — First colonial assejubly in IG19, — Introduction of women, — Introduction of negroes by the Dutch in 1620, — Constitution brought over by Sir Fran- cis Wyatt. — Relations with the Indians, — Massacre of the 22d of March, 1622, — its consequences, — Struggles between, the king and the company, — Commissioners sent to Virginia, — Firmness of the Vir- ginians, — Dissolution of the company. When Smith left the colony, it contained four hundred and ninety odd persons. The harvest was newly gathered and there was provision for ten weeks in the stores. . The savages were in a good state of subjection and readily yielded at a reasonable price whatever they could spare. All things were in such a condition that prudent management might have in- sured the most brilliant success, but the wildest confusion and anarchy pre- vailed. The new President was so ill that he could not attend to business, and twenty others endeavored to hold the reins of government. When the savages found that Smith was gone they speedily attacked and broke up the establishments at Powhatan and Nansemond, driving in the I'em- nant of the men their butcheries left, to subsist upon the rapidly wasting provisions of James Town. Ratcliffe with a vessel and thirty men attempt- ing to trade with Powhatan was by his carelessness cut oil", and he himself with all his company perished except two, who were saved by the humani- ty of Pocahontas, West with a crew of thirty escaped in a ship to be- come pirates.* The miserable company now left without control or authority, and composed wiih a few exceptions of "gentlemen, tradesmen, servingmen, libertines, and such-like, ten times more fit to spoil a common- wealth, than either begin one, or but help to maintain one," now gave free rein to all their evil dispositions. Each one sought only to gratify his passions or preserve his own life, without regard to the wants or suffering's-' of the rest. There was no union, no concert, no harmony. Vice stalked abroad in her naked deformity, and her handmaids, misery and famine followed in her train. The savages attacked and slew the whites u}X)n every occasion, and forming a systematic plan to starve the remainder, they would supply no further provisions ; after they had bought every disposa- ble article at the fort, even to most of their arms, at such a price as they ♦Smith in book 4, pa. 2, says, "sailed for England." — Bancroft 150, says on the authority of Stilh— "became pirates." HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 559 chose to exact. The corn was speedily con.sumcd, next followed the domestic animals, poultry, hogs, goats, sheep, and finally the horses; all were consumed even to their skins. The only resource was in roots, acorns, berries, and such other unwholesome stuff as could be found ; nay so pinching was the hunger, that savages who had been slain and buried were disinterred to be consumed, and even some of the whites who had perished were used to preserve life by the rest. Of nearly five hundred that Smith left, in six months only sixty emaciated beings remained alive; and these were without the possibilhy of support for longer than ten day^. When Gates and Summers were shipwrecked on the Bermuda rocks, their good management saved the life of every individual, and a large proportion of their provision and stores. On this island although unin- habited, nature was so bountiful, and presented spontaneously such a rich variety of productions suitable to the sustenance of man, that their hun- dred and fifty men lived in ease and abundance for nearly ten months. The disagreeable idea of remaining thus upon an island, cut off fVom all intercourse with the rest of the world, stimulated them to the exertion necessary to build two barks, with such rude instruments as thtry possessed, from the wreck of their old ship and the cedars of the island. In these they embarked for Virginia, expecting to find in the comforts and plenty of a flourishing colony ample solace for all their toil and difficulties. What then it/f no was their astonishment when they reached James Town, after a ^^ more prosperous voyage than they could have expected in their crazy vessels, to meet instead of the warm and joyful welcome of their coun- trymen, in the full fruition of health and plenty, only the greedy cravings of a few miserable wretches, begging for a sufficiency of food to preserve their existence. Not anticipating this melancholy situation they had only provided themselves with enough provision for the-ir voyage, and were unable to releive the necessities of their fellow creatures, whose sufferings it was so painful to witness. It was impossible in this situation to r('- main longer in the colony. All were embarked on board the vessel?, James Town was abandoned, and it was with difficulty that its depart- ing citizens could be prevented from setting fireto'the habitations in which they had suffered so much misery. All the provisions which could be raised did not amount to more than would support them for sixteen days, at the most limited allowance, yet with this they set out Avith the hope to reach Newfoundland, where they expected to be relieved by the British fishing vessels. But although it had been the will of heaven to permit the colonists to receive an awful chastisement for their misconduct, j-et it was not decreed by the ruler of all human affairs that the colony should be entirely aban- doned, and so much labor and suffering be useless to mankind, or so fine a country left in its original wild and unimproved condition. Before Gates and his associates had reached the mouth of James river, they were met by Lord De La Ware with three ships, having on board a number of new settlors, an ample stock of provisions, and every thing recjuisite for defence or cultivation. By persuasion and authority he prevailed upon them to T in lAin ^^^^r" ^0 James Town, where they found their fort, and ' ' houses and magazines in the same situation in which they iiad been left. A society with so bad a constitution and such a weak and disordered frame required skillful and tender nursing to restore it to vigor. Lord De La Ware was fully competent to his stafiori. H^ held a icfng 5G0 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. coiisullation to asccrlain the cause of tlie previous difliciilties, and concluded after listening to tlieir mutual accusations, b}'^ a speech full of wholesome advice, rocouimending the course they should pursue, and assuring them that he should not hesitate to exercise his lawful authority in punishing the insubordinate, dissolute, and idle. By unwearied assiduity, by the respect due to an amiable and benificent character, by knowing how to mingle severity with indulgence, and when to assume tht; tlignity of his office, as well as when to display the gentleness natural to his owirtemper, he gradually reconciled men corrupted by anarchy, to subordination and discipline, he turned the attention of the idle and profligate to industry, and taught the Indians again to reverence and dioad the English name/ Un- March^S 1611 '^^^ such an administration, the colony began once mofje ' ' to assume a promising appearance : when, unhappily for it, a complication of diseases brought on by the climate obliged Lord De La Ware to quit the country: the government of which he committed to Mr. Percy.* The colony at this time, consisted of about two hundred men; but the departure of the governor was a disastrous event, whfch produced not only a despondency at James Town, but chilled the zealous warmth of the London company, and caused a decided reaction in: the popular mind in England, which was exhibited [in the mamter in wfesick popular feeling delights to display itself- by exhibiting the Virginia CQlony as a subject of derision upon the stagcj ^ ^ -; .-, - • . ■ ; :. > .-4 Before the departure of Lord Ue La Ware the company in England-had despatched Sir Thomas Dale with supplies, and it was w'ell he arrived so Mav 10 IfiM ^o*^"^' fo'i' ^''t' company w^as. already fast relapsing to their "' ' ■ forjner s-tate of idleness and iitiprovidence, and had nc- "glected to plant corn ; which he caused to be doae iiinnediately. The com- pany having found all their previous systems of government inefficient, granted to Sir Thomas Dale more absolute authority than had been grant- ed to any of his predecessors, impowering him to rule by martial law.;; a short code of which founded on the practice of the armies in the lo^v countries, the most rigitl school at that time in Europe, .they sent outwith him. This system of vioientaiwl ttjibiirary government was reconnTiend^ ed by Sir Francis Bacon, the most enlightened philosopher, and one of th$ most eminent lawyers of his age.- It proves the depth of his sagacity, for It would have been absurd to apply .the- refined speculative theories of- civil government to a set of mutinous, undisciplined, idle,- ignorant fxeatures, shut up in a fort, surrounded by hostile nations, and dependent upon t^ieir own exertions for support. Surely in such a case a strong government was as neces.sary as in a ship at sea, and more so than in oi;dinary military stations, where habitual discipline preserves order, and ensures respect to the officers. , - . > The governor who was now entrusted with this great but necessary power exercised it with prudence and moderation. By the vigor which the summary mode of military-punishment gave to his admini.st4-ation, he introduced into the colony more perfect order than had ever been estabr lished there ; and at thesame time he tempered its vigor with, so much discretion, that no iihtrm seems to baye been given, by this innovation. In May Sir Thomfts Dale wrote to England fuU-infoimation of the * Robertson's Virjrinia, pa. SO. + Bancroft, 150. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. '561 weakness of the colony, bUt recommending in sliong terms the importanre of the place. His favorable representations were fully confifm . v^^'t' j s HTSTOIIY OF VTROtNIA. 50S we can trace* he called together a General A.ssomV)ly consistin": of two mem- bers from every town, borough or h mi dred, besides the governor and coun- cil, which met at Jamestown, near the end of June 1619. In this assembly seven corporations were represented, and four more were laid oft" in the course of the same summer. In this first North American Legislature, wherein was "debated all mat- ters thought expedient for the good of the colony," several acts were passed which were pronounced by the treasurer of the company to be "well and judiciously carried," but which arc unfortunately lost to posterity. This was an eventful year to the colony, for in addition to their assembly, a col- lege was established in Henrico, with a liberal endovvment. King James kad exacted £i.'5,()U0 from the several bishops of his kingdom for the purt pose of educating Indian children, and 10,000 acres of land were now ad- ded by the company; and the original design was extended to make it a seminary of learning also for the Fmglish. One hundred idle and dissolute persons, in custody for various misdemeanors, were transported by the au- thority of the king and against the wishes of the company to Virginia. They were distributed through the colony as servants to the planters; and the degradation of the colonial char-ncter produced by such a process, was endured for the assistance derived from them in executing the various plans of industry, that were daily extending themselves. This beginning excited in the colonists a desire for using more extensively other labor than their own, an opportunity for the gi'atificalion, of which unfortunately too soon occ4jrred. In this eventful year too, a new article was introduced into the trade of the company with the colony, by the good policy of the treasurer Sir Edwin Sandys, which pi-oduced a material change in the views and feel- ings of the colonists with regard to the country. At the accession of Sir Edwin to office, after twelve years labor, and an expenditure of eighty thou- sand pounds by the company, ther^ was in the colony no more tharj six hundred persons, men, women and children. In one year he provided ^ passage for t^velve hundred and sixty one new emigrants. Among these were ninety agreeable young women, poor but respectable and incorrupt, to furnish wives to the colonists, 'i'he wisdom of this policy is evident,— j- the men had hitherto regarded Virginia only as a place of temporary so- journ for the acquisition of wealth, and never dreamed of making a perma^ nent residence in a place where it was impossible to enjoy any of the com- forts of domestic life. Thev' had consequ.ently none of those endearing ties of home and kindred to bind them to tlie country, or attach them to its in- terests which are so necessary to make a good citizen. This new comr modity was transported at the expense of the colony, and sold to the young planters, and the following year another consignment was made of sixty young maids of virtuous education, young, handsome, and well recommend- ed. A wife in the first lot sold generally for one hundred pounds of tobac ca, but as the value of the new article became known in the market, thg *It is not however probable that such an. important step was taken without authori- ty. The assembly seems to have been convene J in conlbnnity to principles laid down in the instructions to Sir Francis Wyalt in lG-21, and probably was procured at the so- licitation of the colony after the deposing of Argall. The authority o^i which the statement that such an assembly was held is Siith IfiO: (See Hen. Stat, at Large, t. 1-31.) The acts passed were pre.sented ou ihc ^'.hh of March t'ullowing, to the court of the company for confirmalion, and were pronounced by Sir Edwin Sandys then trea- surer, to be well and judiciously formed : See also Smith, vol. II. 39, for an account of this assembly in confirmation of Stith. 566 HISTORY OF VIRGmiA. price rose, and a wife would brino- a hundred and fifty pounds of tobacco; A debt for a wife was of higher dignity than other debts, and to be paid' first. As an additional inducement to marriage, married men were gene- rally preferred in the selection of officers for the colony. Domestic ties were formed, habits of thrift ensued, comforts were increased, and happiness diffused; the tide of emigration swelled; within three years fifty patents for land were granted, and three thousand five hundred persons found their way to Virginia. In the month of August of this year an event occurred which stamped ,pg^ its impress upon the constitution of Virginia, and indeed of the whole southern portion of America so deeply, that it will be difficult to erase it save by the destruction of society. This was the introduction of 20 A'l-ican slaves by a Dntch vessel, which availed itself of the freedom of commerce which had been released from the shackles of the company's monopoly in the early part of this year, to rivet forever the bonds of slavery upon a portion of their fellow-creatures and their descendants. The in- dented and covenanted servants which had been long known in Virginia, and whose condition was little better than that of slavery, was a small evil and easily removed, because they were of the same color and country with their masters; when they were emancipated they leaped at once from their shackels to the full dignity of freedom. No one scorned to associate with them, and no one spurned their alliance, if honorable and worthy in other respects they were equal to their masters and might even rise to di.stinction. But not so to the poor African. Nature has fixed upon hnn a stamp wlvich cannot be erased or forgotten, the badge of his bondage is borne with him, when his fetters have crumbled to the dust, the curse of Cain is upon him, and no one will mingle with him. By the white man he is loved and che- rished as a distant and humble dependant — but he is despised with disgust as a companion ; — and the contamination of a mixture with his blood is loathed as a deep, endless, irremediable stain. Under such circumstances emancipation is impossible without removal, but when and where and how is this to be effected? This question posterity must answer, — all that wfe' can do is to treat them with kindness and humanity, and this is done. The overbearing disposition of king James created a powerful popular party in England, which being unable to establish a liberal government at home, was determined to secure for free principles a safe asylum in the col- onies. The accomplishment of this determination was accelerated- by the!^ disposition of the king to intermeddle with this very subject. He Avas ex- ceedingly jealous of the company, in which the patriot party prevailed, and suspicious of the liberal principles discussed in its meetings with nncOntrol- ed freedom: he feai-ed it as the school of debate, and nursery of Parliamen- tary leaders. Upon the resignation of Sir Edwin Sandys of his office as M T7 iron tr^^^isurer, the king determined to try the extent of hisinfJii- May 1/, lb.^U. ^^^^^ -^ ^j^^ election of a successor to this first office in the company. He accordingly sent in a nomination of four individuals, to one of whom he desired the office to be given; but he proved unsuccessful in his attempt at dictation, and none of his nominees were elected, but the choice fell upon the earl of Soulhompton. The company having thus vindicated its own privileges, proceeded next to guarantee freedom to the colonists, by a constitution remarkably liberal for the time and circumstances. This charier of freedom, the principles of which the Vir.ginians never could be brought subsequently to relinquish, has HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. S&f been preserved to posterity in "summary of the ordinance and constitution of the treasurer, council and company in England, for a council of stalo,and another council to be called the General Assembly in Virginia, contained in a commission to Sir Francis Wyait (the first governor under that ordinance and constitution) and his council," dated July 24, 1G21.* The council of state was to be chosen by the treasurer, council and com- pany in England, with the power of removal at pleasure, their duty was to advise, and assist the governor, and to constitute a portion of the General Assembly. This General Assembly was to be called by the governor once a year, and not oftener, unless on very extraordinary and important occa- sions; it was to consist, in addition to the council of state, of two burgesses, out of every town, hundred or other particular plantation, to be respectively chosen by the inhabitants; in which council all matters were to be decided, determined and ordered by the greater ])art of the voices then present, re- serving to the governor always a negative voice. "And this General As- sembly was to have full power, to treat, consult and conclude, as well of all emergent occasions concerning the public weal of the said colony, and every part thereof, as also to make, ordain and enact such general laws and or- ders, for the behoof of said colony, and the good government thereof, as from lime to time might seem necessary." The General A.ssembly and council of state were required to imitate and folloAV the policy of the form of government, laws, customs and manner of trial, and of the administration of justice, used in the realm of England, as near as might be, as the company itself was required to do, by its charter. No law or ordinance was to continue in force or validity unless it was so- lemnly ratified in a general quarterly court of the company, and returned under seal ; and it was promised that as soon as the government of the colo- ny should once have been well framed and settled, that no orders of court should afterwards bind the colony, unless they were ratified in the same manner by the General A.ssembly. Thus were the elements of a free government established, at the arrival of Sir Francis Wyatt, on a soil from which Ehey wt^e never to be eradicated, in less than one year from the time \^hen domestic slavery was instituted in the same place, on a footing which promises equal permanence. When Sir Francis arrived he found that negligence and security amongsf the colonists, which is the inevitable consequence of a long peace. Old Powhatan had died in 1618, honored by the esteem and respect ol all who knew him, — his own people, holding in grateful remembrance his prowess and policy in youth, and ins mildness in age, — and his English friends and brethren admiring his firm support of his dignity, his paternal affection, his mild simplicity, and his native intelligence. He was succeeded in his pow- er by Opechancanough his younger brother, who was cunning, treacher- oas, revengeful and cruel. He renewed the former treaties, with every as- surance of good faith, and wore the mask of peace and friendship so suc- cessfully as completely to lull the whites to security. But this crafty prince had always viewed with peculiar jealousy and hate the progress of the colony. He had given much trouble, and engaged in frequent hostili- ties, whilst he was king of Pamunkee, and it was not to be supposed that he would patiently submit to the continued and rapid encroachments of the whites upon his lands, to the entire extermination or banishment of his peo- *See Henning's Stat, at Large, vol. I. p. 113. 568 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. pie, now that he possessed the empire oi his brother. But to rn ret thein i-n the field was impossible, the dispariiy in arms was too great, and the num- bers in fighting men now equal,* the attempt would be madness and des- peration, and lead to that extermination of his race which he wishc d to avoid. His only resource was to strike some great and sudden blow which should annihilate the power of the colony at once. He had applied to a king who resided on the Eastern Shore, to purchase a subtle poisonf which grevv only in his dominions, but this king being on good terms with the .whites and wishing to enjoy their trade refused to gratify him. His ne^\t resource was in a general massacre, to take effect upon all of the scattered plantations on the same day. The situation of the whites favored this de- sign, they not only placed confidence in the words of the savages which had now been so long faithfully kept, but in their weakness and cowardice. They had extended their plantations over a space of one hundred and forty •miles, on both sides of James river, and made some settlements in the neigh- borhood of the Potomac; in short wherever a rich spot invited to the culti- vation of tobacco, there were they established, and an absence of neighbors was preferred-l The planters were careless with their arms, never using their swords, and their fire-arms only for game. The old law making it criminal to teach a savage the use of arms was forgotten, and they were fowlers and hunters, for many of the planters, by which means they became well acquainted with the use of arms and the places in which they were kept. One great object with the settlers, and with the company, in whose instructions we find it perpetually enjoined, had beenthe conversion of the Indians to the christian religion. To promote this pious object, they had always been received in the most friendly manner, they became market people to the planters, and they were fed at their tables, and lodged in their bed-chambers as friends and brothers. Opechancanough had renewed the treaty with governor Wyatt, and- took every other means in his power to avoid suspicion. He told a messenger about the middle of March, that the sky should fall ere he would violate the treaty of peace; only two days before the fatal 22nd, the English were guid- ed in safety and kindness through tWe forest by the unsuspected Indians, and a Mr. Browne who had been sent to live among them to. learn their language was sent safely to his friends, — nay, so Avell was the dread secret kept that the English boats were borrowed to transport the Indians over the river to consult on the '! devilish murder that ensued," and even on tJie,dg.y itself, as well as on the evening before, they came as' usual unarmed into the settlements with deer, turkies, fish, fruits and other provisions to sell, and in some places sat down to breakfast with the English. Tlieconcert and secrecy of this great plot is the more astonishing when we reflect that the savages were not living together as one nation, and didnot Imve for most purposes, unity of action, but were dispersed in little hamlets (Jontarn- ing from thirty to two hundred in a company; "yet they all had warning given them one from another in all their habitations, though far asun/ier, M- Vi oo ifi09 ^° ^^Gt at the day and hour appointed for the tiest ruction , — . ^j- ^j^g English at their several plantations ; some directed to. one place, some to another, all to be done at the time appointed, which they did accordingly; some entering their houses under color of trading, so _ : : 1 — -.: : — ^-,- ; • '"■;-- ■ '. .j JD » ♦Bancroft 193 and references tliere quoted; tSmith II. 71. ^.i. } Smith, vol, 11.66. HISTORY OF VIRC4INIA. 569 took their advantage ; others drawing thcni abroad under lair pretences, and the rest suddenly falling upon those that were at their labors." 'J'hey spared no age, sex, or condition, and were so sudden in their indiscriminate slaughter that fcw could discern the blow or weapon, which brought them to destruction, 'i'heir taniiliarity with the whites led them with fatal pre- cision to the pojnts at which they were certain to be found, and that "fatal morning fell under the bloody and barbarous hands of that perfidious and inhuman people, three hundred and forty seven men, women and children, principally by their own weapons." Not content with this destruction, they brutally defaced and mangled the dead bodies, as if they would perpetrate a new murder, and bore ofTthe severed portions in fiendish triumph. Those who had treated them with especial kindness, and conferred many benefits apon them, who confided so mnch in them that to the last moment they could not believe mischief was intended, fared no better than the rest. The ties of love and gratitude. the sac red rights of hospitality and reciprocal frienship. oaths, pledges and promises, and even the recent and solemn profession of fidelity to an all-merciful and omnipotent God, were broken asunder or for- gotten in obedience to the command of their chief for the execution of a great but diabolical stroke of state policy. With one and onlj^ one of all who had been cherished by the whites, did gratitude for their kindness and fidelity to his new religion prevail over his allegiance to his king, and afTec- tion for his people. A converted Indian who resided with a Mr. Pace, and who was treated by him as a son, revealed the plot to him in the night of the 2lst. Pace immediately secured his house and rowed himself up to Jamestown, where he disclosed it to the governor, by which means that place and all the neigboring plantations, to which intelligence could be con- veyed, was saved from destruction ; for the cowardly Indians when they sa.w the whites upon their guard immediately retreated. Some other places were also preserved, by the undaunted courage of the occupants, who never failed to beat off their assailants, if they were not slain, before their suspi- cions were excited. By these means was Virginia preserved from total an- nihilation in a single hour, by this well co»ceiv^dj,\vell concealed, and well executed plot of her weak and siiopie adversaries. The larger portion of the colony was saved; for a year after the massacre it contained two thou- sand five ^hundred persons; but the con?:tei nation produced by it, caused the adoption of a ruinous policy. Instead of marching at once bold- ly to meet the adversary and driving him from the country, or reducing him to subjection by a bloody retaliation, the colonists were huddled to- gether from their eighty plantations into eight, the college, manufactories and other works of public utility, were abandoned, and cultivation confined to a space almost too limited, merely for subsistence. These crowded quar- ters produced sickness, and some were so disheartened that they sailed for England. In England this disastrous intelligence so far from dispiriting the com- pany, excited their sympathies to such a degree, that it aroused them to re-' newed exertion, and a more obstinate determination to secure at all hazards a country which had cost so much blood and treasure. Supplies w-ere promptly despatched, and even the king was moved to the generosity of giving some old rusty arms from the tower, which he never meant to use. and promising tuilher assistance, which he never meant to reiider Serious discussions now took place in the courts of the company as to tb« policy proper to be pursued w ith the Indians, and some advocated their 72 571> HISTORY OF VIRGINIA, entire subjection, in imitation of t\w. example of the Spaniards, which poH-. cy would surely have been more merciful than that war of extermination which was carried into effect, whether by deliberate design or a system of temporary expedients does not appear. Smith offered the company to pro- tect all their planters Irom the James to the Potomac, with a permanent force of one hundred soldiers and thirty sailors, with one small bark, and means to build several shallops ; and there is no doubt but that he would have accomplished it, by which means the planters could have employed themselves much more successfully in attending to their crops, than when they had to keep perpetual watch, and occasionally to take up arms to de- fend themselves, or rnake an attack upon the enemy. Smith received for answer that the company was impoverished, but that he had leav« to carry his proposal into effect, if he could find means in the col" ony, and would give the company half the booty he should acquire; upon which answer he observes, that except some little corn, he would not give twenty pounds for all the booty to be made from the savages for twenty years. The colonists, although they could not be soon again lulled to their former security, speedily recovered from their recent panic, and on July of the same year* sallied forth with three hundred men to seize the corn and inflict other punishment on the Indians ; but they suflered themselves to be deceived by false pretences until the corn was removed from their reach so that they got but little ; ihe^^ ""succeeded however in burning many of their villages, and destroying much of their property, by which they said they Avere likely to suffer much during the ensuing winter. "We find, that a law was passed on the following sessionby the General Assembly, requiring that on the beginning of luly next, the inhabitants of every corporation should fall upon the adjoining .savages as had been done the lastj'ear; and enacting that those who were hurt .should be cured at the public charge, and such as were maimed should be maintained by the country, according totheirquality.f We find it also further enacted in 1630, "that the war begun upon the In- dians be effectually followed, and that no peace be concluded with them ; and that all expeditions undertaken against t hern should be prosecuted with dili^ gence.| This slate of fierce wa?&pe«<)iatinued to rage with unmtejrupted fury until a peace vvas concluded in 1632, under the administration of go- vernor Harvey.^ In the course of this warfare the Indians were not treat- ed with the same tenderness, with which they had generally been before |j the massacre, but their habitations, cleared lands, and pleasant sites, \yhen orice taken possession of, were generally retained by the victors, and- the rv^a^ quished forced to take refuge in the woods and marshes. ^"Whilst tliese events were transpiring in th^ colony, an important change iji rgoo the character-of their government was about to take place in England. The company had been uusuccesslul ; the fact could no longer be denie.d. They had transported more than nine thousand persons, at an expense taijt ceeding a hundred thousand pounds, and yet in nearly eighteen years there \yere only about two thousand persons in the colony, and its annual exports did not exceed twenty thousand pounds in value. The king took advantage *Mr. Bancroft makes this the following year, but if he will look to the date of the law to which he refers, he will liiid his error: (I Hen. Stat. L., p. 1-23, — Act No. 32.) + HenniBg, vol. I. p. 128.' tHenuiiig, vol. I. 153. § Burke, vol. II. p. 37. - .. II See an instance tp the contrary in the case of the Apponiattucks— ante pa, 561^" HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 5fl of the present unfortunate state of affairs, to push his plans for the dissolu- tion of the company. He carefully fomented the dissentions which arose, and encouraged the weaker party ; which readily sought the aid of his powerful arm. He had long disliked the democratic freedom of their dis- cussions, and had of late become envious of their little profits on the trade of the colonists, which he felt every disposition to divert into his own cof- fers ; and determined to make good use of the present state of despondency in most of the company, and unpopularity with the public, to eflect his dt*- signs. Wishing however to gain his end by stealth, and secret influence ir2^ with their officers, rather than by open violence, he again tried his strength in the nomination of four individuals from whom the com- pany were to choose their treasurer. But he was again signally defeated, and the earl of Southampton re-elected by a large majority, the king's can- didates receiving only eight votes in seventy. Failing in this, it was manifest that the company was not to be brow- beaten into submission to his dictation, and he only considered how the charter of the company migiit be revoked, with the least violation to the laws of England. To efTeet this with plausible decency some allegation of improper conduct was to be made, and some proof ferreted out. The first of these objects was effected by two long petitions by members of the Roy- al faction in the company, setting forth at full length every evil which had accrued to the colony, from its earliest establishment to that hour, and charg- ing all upon the mismanagement of the company. For many of these charges there was too much truth, and the faults of the company could be easily seen after the accidents had happened, but whether they were not necessarily incidental to the situation of things in Virginia, or they might have been avoided by the king or a corporation diiferently constituted, are questions difficult to answer; but these petitions contained, mingled with these truths, a great proportion of glaring falsehood as to the physical and moral condition of the colony. They had been prepared and presented with great secrecy; but the company contrived, to obtain copies ofthen?i| arnl refuted their slanders by the most irvef/agiblefeslimouy, ma.ny facts Hew- ing in thecognziance of the membtfrs'tlwiinl^el'e^Ptand others established by the evidence of respectable persons who had long resided in Virginia. This mass of evidence was laid before the king, in the vain hope, that he might be induced to disregard the petitions; but part of his object wa.s now gained, the charges were made, the next step was to procure a semblance of proof; for this purpose in a few days, m answer to the prayer in one of the petitions, he issued a commission under the great seal, to seven persons to enquire into all matters respecting Virginia, from the beginning of its set- tlement. • . The better to enable these commissioners to conduct their investiga- tions, by an order of the privy council, all the records of the com' pany of whatsoever nature were seized, the deputy treasurer was imprison- ed, and on the arrival of a ship from Virginia, all the papers on board were inspected. ■ . ■; ■■ ■■ • -■ ■ The report of these commissioners hasnever transpired, but if was with- „ K Ifto^l out doubt,. such as the king wished and expected; for by an October, Ib-d, qj.j|^^ ;,., council he made known, that having taken into his princely consideration, the distressed state of Virginia, occasioned by the ill-government of the company, he had resolved by a new charter, to ap- point a governor and twelve assistants to reside in England; and a govern- 578 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. or and twelve assistants to reside in Virginia; the former to be nominated by his majesty in council, the latter to be nominated by the governor and assistants in England, and be appointed by the king in council; and that all proceedings should be subject to the royal direction. This was a return at one step to the charter of 1606. The company was called together to consider upon this arbitrary edict, under an alternative similar to the one given to witches upon their trial; if they could switn with a heavy weight about their necks, they were burned as guilty, if they sunk and drowned they were acquitted; the king gave the company the privilege of accepting his proposition and resigning its charter, or of refusing and having the charter annulled. The company wliich had refused to gratify the king in the choice of iis officers, was less disposed to comply Avith this suicidal requisition. The astounding order was read over three several times before they could con- vince themselves that their ears informed them correctly of its purport. At length the vote was taken and one hundred and twelve votes were against the relinquishment, and twenty-six, the precise number of the king's fac- tion, in favor of it. The company asked further time for a more deliberate decision, as there had not been sufficient notice, few members were present, and it was one of those matters of importance which could not be decided, by the teims of their charter, except at a regular quarterly meeting; but the council would not listen to the proposition, ordering the company -to meet again in three days, and give a clear, direct and final answer. In obedience to this order an extraordinary court w^as summoned, and the ques- tion of surrender submitted to their consideration, upon which only nine of the seventy present voted in its favor; an answer was returned that they would defend their charter. The knowledge of these proceedings transpi- ring produced a shock to the credit of the company, which palsied for the time the spirit of commercial enterpri.se; to remedy this evil the privy council declared that the private property of every one should be protected, and secured by additional guarantees if necessary; that tliey should pro- ceed with their regular businessj and all ships bound for Virginia should sail. To endeavor to diseever gomjetkisag more authentic against the com- pany than his secret conclave of commissioners had yet been able to obtain, Oct 24 IP'^"^ the king now thought proper to send John Harvey, John ' "^ ' Pory, Abraham Piersey, Samuel Matthews, and John Jef- ferson, as commissioners to Virginia. "To make more particular and dili- gent enquiry touching divers matters, which concerned the state of Virgi- nia, and in order to facilitate this enquiry, the governor and council of Vir- ginia were ordered to assist the commissioners in this scrutiny, by all their knowledge and influence."* The commissioners early in the ensuing year arrived in the colony. In 1624 ^^^ °^ '^'^ controversy between the king and the company, the colony not supposing its chartered rights were likely to be violated by either party, and feeling little interest in the discussion of rights which belonged entirely to others, Avhich they never supposed that they were to possess j had acted with entire neutrality, and cared little whether they were to be un- der the general superintendence of the courts of the company, or a council chosen by the king, so long as they could regulate their own affairs by their own General Assembly.f ♦ Burk I. 273^ ~ '■ '■ ~ tThe king and company quarrelled, and by a mixture of law and force, the latter were ousted of all their rights, without retribution, after having expended £100,000 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 573 In such a mood would the commissiDners have found the colony and General Assembly, had they not procured copies of the two slanderous pe- titions, in spite of all the precautions of the king and the secrecy of liis council and commissioners. Althouirh they felt little interest in the con- troversy, they felt great interest in defending themselves from defamation, and their country from false and malicious representations, well calculated to disparage and depreciate it in the estimation of those, with whom they F h 90 iro4 wished it to stand foirest. In six days from their meeting teo. M, lb:.4, ^j^^^ j^^^j pj.j,j^^red spirited and able answers to these peti- tions; declarmg in their preamble, "that they holding it a sin against God and their own sufierings, to permit the world to be abused with false re- ports, and to give to vice the reward of virtue,— They, in the name of the whole colony of Virginia, in their General Assembly met, many of them having been eye-witnesses and sufferers in those times, had. framed out of their duty to their country, and love of truth the following answer given to the praises of Sir T. Smith's government, in the said declaration." They next drafted a petition to the king, which with a letter to the privy council and the other papers, were committed to the care of Mr. John Pounr tis, a member of the council, who was selected to go to England to repre-r sent the general interests of the colony before his majesty and the privy council; and whose expenses were provided for by a tax of four pounds of the best merchantable tobacco for every male person sixteen years of age, who had been in the country for one year. This gentleman unfortunately died on his passage. The "letter to the privy council marks very strongly the value which they set even at that early day upon the right of legisla- ting for themselves, the principal prayer in it, being "that the governors may not have absolute power, and that they might still retain the liberty of popular assemblies, than which, nothing could more conduce to the public satisfaction, and public utility." A contest of wit.'* was commenced between the commissioners and thp Assembly. The former under various pretexts withheld from the latter a a sight of their commission, and the other papers with which they had beer\ charged, and the governor and the Awrem-My thottghi proper to preserve an equal mystery as to their own proceedings. In this dilemma Mr. PoTy, who was one of the commissioners, and who had been secretary to the company, and discharged from his post for betraying its councils to the eo the Puritans to settle on Delaware bdy, — Harvey governor,— Erro-r with regard to his early administration, — Dismemberment of the colo- ny^ — Grant of Carolina and Maryland, — probable cause of discontent, ^-Harvey deposed — restored, — Wyatt governor, — Acts of the Legisla- iwe im.properly censured, — Berkeley governor, — Indian relations,— Ope-.hancanough prisoner — his death, — C/mnge of governmeniin Eng- land, — Fleet and army sent to reduce Virginia, — Preparation for de- fence by Berkeley, — Agreement entered into between the colony and the- commissioners of the commonwealth, — Indian hoslU'Uics, — Matthews elected governor, — Difficulties between the governor arul the legislature — adjusted, — State of the colony and its trade, — Commissioners se%t to England, — The Restoration, — General legislation. The dissolution of tlie London Company was soon followed by the death A/i u or IP.-)- 0^ James, and the accession of his son Charles I. The March 27, lb'.,;). j.j^^ troubled himself little about the political rights and privileges of the colony, and suffered them to grow to the strength of estab- lished usage by his wholesome neglect; whilst he was employed in obtaining a monopoly of their tobacco. This valuable article, the use of which ex- tended with such unaccountable rapidity, had early attracted the avidity of king James. The 10th article of the charter of 1609 had exempted the company, their agents, factors and assignees from the payment of all sub- sidies and customs in Virginia for the space of one and twenty years, and from all taxes and impositions forever, upon any goods imported thither, or exported thence into any of the realms or dominions of England ; ex- tiept the five per cent usual by the ancient trade of merchants.* But not- withstanding the express words of this charter, a tax was laid by the farm- ers of the customs in the year 1620 upon the tobacco of the colony ; which .was not only high of itself, but the more oppressive because it laid the same tax upon Virginia and Spanish tobacco, when the latter sold in the market for three times the price of the former. In the same year, the mmf prince was guilty of another violation of the charter in forcing the cm*- pan y to bring all of their tobacco into England; when he found that a portion of their trade had been diverted into Holland, and establishments made at MiddJeburg and Flushing. The charters all guaranteed to the colony all of the rights, privileges, franchises, and immunities of native born Englishmen, and this act of usurpation was the first attempt on the part of the mother country to monopolize the trade of the colony. The next year the king, either "his avidity being unsatisfied, or not liking the * Henning St. at L. v. I. p. 94. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA 577 usurped and prccaiious tenure hy which Jiis gains were held, invingled the Virginia and Soiner's Isle's company into an arrangement, by which they were to become the sole importers ol'tobacco; being bound however to import not less than forty nor moretlian sixty thousand pounds of Spanish varinas, and paying to the king in addition to the six pence duty before paid, one- ihird part of all the tobacco landed, in the realms. The king on bis part was to prohibit all other iniporlation and all planting in England and Ire- land; and t\MM which was already planted was to be confiscated. When the company petitioned Parliament to prolong its existence in opposition to the efforts of the king, titey failed, — but that portion of their petition which asked for the exclusive monopoly of tobacco to Virginia „ oa K'oi ^""^^ ^^^^ Somer Isles, was granted, and a royal proclamation p. ^ , -)~ . jj^g^^j accordmgly ; whether this exclusiveness was under- stood with the liuiitation in I he previous contract between the king and the two companies, it is impossible to say, as the original documents are not accessible to the writer.* But the probabilities are greatly against the limitation. Charles had not been long on the throne before he issued a proclamatiort A "10 tfi'-:>=5 t^onfirming the exclusive privileges of the Virginia and P"^* ' "" ' Somer Isles tobacco, and prohibiting a violation of their monopoly, under penalty of (-ensure by the dread star chamber. This was soon followed by another in which he carefully act forth the forfeituie of their charter by the company, and the innnediate dependance. of the colony upon the crown ; concluding by a plain intimation of his intention to be- come their sole factor. Soon after this a rumor reached the colonies that an individual was in treaty with the king for an exclusive contract for tobacco, one of the con- ditions of which would have led to the importation of so large an amount of Spanish tobacco as would have driven (hat of the colonists from tlie market ; the earnest representations of the colony on this subject caused an abandonment of the scheme, but. in return the colony was obliged to excuse itself from a charge of trade with the lower countries, and promise to fra7 '^^i^'^t^'^^io" IS exhibited in the history of the colony ; and ' " ■ the e&timate placed upon his character by those who were best accpiainted wi'th his conduct, and who were little disposed to flatter undeservedly either the living or the dead, is to be found in a eulogy Avrit- f en by the government ol Vifginia to the privy council, announcing his death. In obedience to the king's commission to the council, they elected Francis West governor, the day after the burial of Yeardley. He held the commission muW the 5th of March 1628, when designing to sail for England, John Pott was chosen to succeed him.f Pott did not continue long in ofKce, for the king, when the death of Yeardley w^as known, issued his commission to Sir John Harvey, who arrived sometime between Octo- ber 1628 and March 1629. In the interval between the death of Yeardley and the arrival of Har- vey, occurred the first act of religious intolerance, which defile the amials of Virginia. ' • . Lord Baltimore, a c;?f^'CTO; lyblileitt&ft;" allured by the rising repntati oil of the colony, abandoned his settlement in Newfoundland and came to Vir- ^^inia; where instead of being received with the cheerful Ave 1 come of' a friend and a brother, he was greeted with the oath of allegiance anrl su- premacy, the latter of which it was well known his conscience would' hot allow him to take. ; ^ .-/ Much allowance is to tie made for this trespass upon religious freedom, before we attribute it to a wilful violation of natural liberty. "The times and circumstances ought to be considered. ' The colony had grown into life while the violent struggles between the Romish and Protestant churches were yet rife. The iincient tyranny and oppression of the Holy See Were yet fresh in the niemory of all, its cruelties and "harsh intolerance in 'Eng- land were recent, and yet continuing in the countries in which its votaries had the control of the civil government. The light of Protestantism' itself was the first dawn of religious freedona, and the thraldom in which man- kind had b©&n held by Catholic fetters for so many ages was too terrible, * Burk, V. 2. pa. 18. + Burk, V. 2 p.- 23. ^Hening v. I. p. 4 and ]M. Burk v, II. p. 33. is at a loss to ac- count tor the fate ol West. .:.Jl .: HISTORY. OI7 VIRGINIA. 579 to risque the possibility of their acquiring any authority in government. Eye-witnesses of the severities of Mary were yet alive in England, and idoubtU^ss many of the colonists had iiearJ fearful relations of the religious sufferings during her reign, probably some had suflered in their own fami- lies; most of them had emigrated whilst the excitement against the Papists was still raging in England with its greatest fury, and continually kept in faction by the discovery or pretended discovery of Popish plots to obtain possession of the government. Was it wonderful then that a colony which with a remarkable uniformii3r of sentiment professed a dillerent religion, should be jealous of a faith which sought by every means in its power to obtain supreaje control, and used that control for the extermination, by the harshest moans, of all other creeds I . The colony in Virginia was planted when the incestuous and monstrous connection of church and state had not been severed" in any civilized coun- try on the globe; — at a period when it would have been heresy to attempt such a divorce, because it required all the aid of the civil power 10 give inen sufficient freedoui to "proft;ss and by argument to maintain" any oiher creed than one, — and that one the creed of Rome. The anxiety of ihe British government upon this subject, so far from being unnatural was Iiighly laudable, since all its efforts were necessary.jo sustain its new-born power of professing its own creed. The awful effect" br"OatH6iic-§upre- jnacy, displayed in a neighboring kingdom, afforded a Avarning too terrible^ to be easily forgotten, and it would have been as unwise to allow the Catholics equal civil privileges at that daj^ as it would be' impolitic and unjust now to exclude them. We find this regard for .religious freedom, (for emancipation from the Pope's authority was a great step in religious freedom.) carefully fostered in the colonies. Every charter required the establishment of the church of England, and authorises the fnfliction of punishment for drawing off the people from their religion^. as a matter 6t equal importance with their allegiance. For at that period, before any im- portant differences between the Protestants had arisen, when but two reli- gions were struggling for existence, not to be of the church of England was to be a Papist, and not to aclcnowledge the. secular supremacy of the King, was to bow to the authority of the Pope. The catholics as the only subject of terror, were the only subjects of intolerance; no sutficient num- ber of dissenters had availed themselves of the great example of Protes- tantism in rejecting any creed which did not precisely satisfy their con- sciences, to become formidable to mother church ; nor had she gro.wn 50 strong and haughty in her new.-fledged power as to level her blows at any but her first great antagonist, t The colony in Virginia consi.^ted of church of England men, and mapy of the first acts of their Legislature relate to provision for the churjcji. .Glebe lands were early laid off^ and livings provided. The ministers were considered not as pious and charitable individuals, but as officers of the * The massacre of the Protestancs by the Catholics on St. Bartholomew's day,jn France, in 1572. t The persecution of the Puritans was an exception to this. Thpy were persecu- ted with considerable rigor, but their numbers were small, consisting: only of-two churches, and most of those who then existed went to Holland with their leaders John Robmsou and William Brewster, in 1G07 and 8, and settled in Am.sterdam, whence they removed to Ley den in IGOO, whence they sailed to America in 16:30, and landed in Cape Cod Harbor on the 7ih of November, find settled Plymouth on the 31st of December foUowiii-?. — Holmes' Am. An. 156 — 203. 580 HISTORY t>F VIRGINIA: state, bound to promote the true flaith and sound morality by authority of the community, by which they were paid and to which they were held responsible for the performance of their duty. The very first act of As- sembly, which was passed, required that in every settlement in which the people met to worship C4od, a house should be appropriated exclusively to that purpose ; and a place paled in to be used solely as a burying ground; the second act imposed the penalty of a pound of tobacco for absence from divine service on Sunday without sufhcient excuse, and fifty pounds for a month's absence ; the third required uniformity, as near as might be, with the canons in England; the fourth enjoined the observance of the holy days, (adding the 22d March, the day of the Massacre to the number) dis- pensing with some 'by reason of our necessities ;' the fifth punished any minister absenting himself from his church above two months in the year with forfeiture of half of his estate, — and four months, his whole estate and curacy; the sixth punished disparagement of a minister; the seventh prohibited any man from disposing of his tobacco or corn until the minis- ter's portion was first paid.* This sacred duty discharged, the Assembly next enact salutary regulations fur the state. We find at the session of 1629 the act requiring attendance at church on the Sabbath specially en- forced, and a clause add'-^ forbidding profanation of that day by travelling pr v/crir" also an act declaring that all those who work in the ground shall pay tithes to the minister. We find requisition of uniformity with the canons of the English church not only repeated in every new commission from England, but re-enacted by the Legislature of 1629-30, and in 16S1-2, as well as in the several revisals of the laws. In the acts of 1631-2, we find many acts conveying the idea advanced of ministers being considered public officers; and churchwardens required to take an oath to present ofTences against decency or morality, which made them in eftect censors, of the public morals. In these acts it is made the duty of ministers to teach children the Lord's piayer, commandments, and the articles of faith; also to attend all persons dangerously sick, to instruct and comfort them in their distress; to keep registers of christening, marriages and deaths; and. to preserve in themselves strict inaral conclu,ct, as an advancement to religion and an example to others. We find also frequent acts passed providing for the payment of the ministers, untilthe session of 1657-8, when church- and state seem to have been effectually divorced; for though no act of re- ligious freedom was passed, but all were still expected, rather than com- pelled, to conform to the church of England, yet the compulsory pay-m^rrt of ministers was abandoned, and all matters relating to the church were left entirely to the control of the people. f From the review which we have given of the religious condition of England and the colony, it must be mEinifest that the tender of . the oath of. supremacy to Lord Baltimore was not only a religious but a civil duty i»; the council, which they could by no means have omitted without a viola- tion of their own oaths, laws and charters. But if any further ptoof AveYe necessary, to show that it flowed from this source and not from a dispose tion to religious intolerance, — it is afforded by the liberal invitation given in the instructions to Captain Bass to the Puritans who had settled at New Plymouth, to desert their cold and barren soil and come and settle upon Delaware Bay, which was in the limits of Virginia.| . ' * Hening, v. 1. p. 121-4. 1 1st ITening, 433 t Burk, v. II. p. 35, OH autlioiitv of ancient records. HISTORY OF VfFJOTNlA. 581 Ilarvej' mot lu's first Gfiierul Assembly in Marrh, and its acts as those ipon of several succeding' sessions, only consist of the usual business acts of the colony. We liave now approached a period in our history, upon which the few scattered and glimmering lights which exist, have rather served to mislead than to guide historians. It is a period replete with charges made bv historians, of the most heinous character against the governor, with no evidence upon record to support them. The truth is that Sir John Harvey was deposed and sent home by the colony for some improper conduct, but what tliat was, does not fully appear, and historians Seem to have thougiit it their duty to supply the defect in the record, by abusing his administra- tion as arbitrary and t3'rannical from the lirst; the charge is without evi- dence, and every probability is against its truth. During the whole of his administration the General Assembly met and transacted their business as usual. The fundamental laws which they had passed to which we have before referred, restraining the powers of the governor, and asserting the powers of the Assembly, were passed again as of course. There could manilestly be no oppression from this source. The General Assembly or- dered the building of forts, made the contracts, provided the payments, pro- vided garrisons and soldiers for the field when necessary, and disbanded them when the occasion for their services had ceased.* The Assembly and the soldiers were planters and they could be little disposed to oppress them- selves, their families and friends. The only evidence which exists against Harvey is the fact of his being deposed, and sent home with commissioners to complain o[ his conduct to the king, but this did not occur until IG35, after the extensive grants had been made to Lord Baltimore and others, which dismembered the colony, and were so displeasing to the planters; and we shall see that aid or connivance in these grants were the probable causes of Harvey's unpopularity. Burke supports his charge of attempted speculation and tyranny, upon the fact that the assembly of 1G31, provideiJl against the raising or expending of money, or levying men without the consent of the assembly ; but this was a mere re-enactment of the laws of 1 623-4, which we have seen, and which were passed undei the popular admin- istration of Wyalt, and seem to have been very justly looked upon by the legis- lature as fundamental laws.f The same remark applies to the provision of security for the B u rgesses from arrest, — that was provided in the first set of laws of which we have any record. Since Burke has committed such an error, whilst he finds great fault with those who went before him, it will be unnecessary here to notice the wild and unfounded speculations in which his predecessors indulged. ;[: ♦ 1 Hening 140, 1, 3, 3. 150, 130. 171. 2, 5, 7, 9, 180. 202. tThe.se frequent repetitions so far from being a special blow at Harvej', was a mere matter of course, " it was customary too to repeal all lormer laws at each ses- sion, and either re-enact them in the very same words of the act repealed, or with such amendments as experience might suggest." Hening, preface, p. VI. {Robertson evidently does not perceive the distinction between taxing the produce of the colony upon its arrival in England, which they could not prevent, and laying taxes on them at home to which their Icgi.slature never would lend its sanction, or the people peaceably submit. He also includes in his censure the popular Yeardley, as suppressing those very assemblies which he was the first to establish, and which eulo- gised him after his death, — He says, " from the tenor of the king's commission, as well as from the known spirit of his policy, it is apparent, that he interKlcil to vest every power of government, botli legislative and executive in the governor and coun- cil, without recourse to the representatives of the people, as possessing a right to enact laws for the community, or to inipo.se ta.\es upon it." How can this be said of the commission referring to the executive authoriry of the " five years last past" during^ which the Assembly had ruled every thingl 582 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. flic first act of tyranny towards the colony which we find recorded against Charles, was his grant in 1630 to Sir Robert Heath of a large por- tion of the lands of the colony ; commencing at the 36th degree of latitude^ " Yeardly and his council, who seem to have been fit instrumenis for carr5ing this system ot" arbitrary rule into execution, did not fail to put such a construction on the words of their commission as was most favorable to their own jurisdiction. During a greater part ot Charles's reign, Virginia knew no other law than the will of the so- vereign. Statutes M'ere published, and taxes imposed, without once calling the rep- resentatives of the people C„ authorize them by their sanction. At the same time that ♦he people were bereaved of political rights which they deemed essential to freemen and citizens, tht ir private property was violently invaded. A proclamation was is- siied, by which under pretexts equally absurd and frivolous, they were prohibited from selling tobacco to any person but certain commissioners appointed by the king to buy it on his account." Robertson's Virginia, p. 107, 8. Again, p. 100, he says " the murmurs and complaints which such a system of administration excited, were aug- mented by the vigour with which Sir John Harvey, who succeeded Yeardly iji the government of the colony, enforced every act of power. Rapacious, unfeeling and haughty, he added insolence to oppression, and neither regarded the sentiments, nor listened to the remonstrcvuces of the people under his command. The colonists, far from the seat of government and overawed by authority derived from a royal com- missioD, submitted long to his tyranny and exactions. Their patience was at last ex- hausted, and in a transporl of 'popular rage they seized their gorcrnor and sent him s, prisoner to England, accompanied by two of their number," &c. To say nothing where there is no authority for saying anything, is not only excusable, but praise- worthy, to give in such cases ingenious conjectures as such may be useful, but to pre- sent a tissue of ctinjeclures as facts cannot be excused in an}' one, and the le.ss in Dr. Robertson, as his high character would stamp them wifli an authority which few oth- ers could give. Judge Marshall unfortunately copies Robertson verbatim, thus show; ing at once that one great mind has been mislead by his standing as -a writer, to take Jhat as truth which is not only unfounded, but contradicted by well established f^rts. As long as Robertson had Smith and Stith to guide him, he is very good authority, but when he is left by them he is at sea. We will conclude this note by a quotation pf an opposite character from a judicious and laborious modem writer. Ba.ncroft, p. 215, after asserting that the colony enjoyed during this season, represented as so op- pressive, an " independanl colonial legislation," he appends the IblloAving note: "as an oppqsite statement has received the sanction, not of Oldmixon, Chalmers and Ru-» pertson only, but of Marshall and of Story : (See Story's Commentaries, v.. I. p. 28, f without the slighest ellbrt to convene a colonial assembly,") I deem it necessary- to state that many of the statttte.S'OfVM'guiia, under Harvey" still exist, and that though piany others are lost, the firstvoluine of Hening's Statutes at Large proves, beyond a auestion, that assemldies were convened at least as often as follows: ■ 1G30, March, H. v. I. p. 147, 153. " April, ibid, 2.57, 1032, February, ibid, 153,177. l(;32, Sept., ibid, 178, 202. 1(533, February, ibid. 202, 209. " August, ibid, 209, 222. 1031, ibid. 223. 1035, ibid, 223. 1030, ibid, 229. 1037, ibid. 227. 1039, ibid, 230. 1010, ibid. 208. 1041, June, ibid. 259. 202. 1G42, January, ibid. 207.' '" April, ibid. 230. (< June, ibid, 209 •Corisidering how imperfect are the early records, it is surprising thatso considerable a list can be established. The instructions to Sir William Berkeley do not first order assemblies; but speak of them as if a thing established. At an adjourned session of Berkeley's first legislature, the a.ssembly declares "its meeting exceeding c-i^.<;/owia?-i/ limits in this place used." ITcning, v. I. p. 233. This is a plain declaration, that as- semblies were the custom and u.se of Virginia at the time of Berkeley's arrival, ■ If any doubts remain, it would be easy to multiply arguments and references." HISTORY OF VinoiNlA 5^3 ftnci including fho whole southern porlion of the United States, under the name of Carolina. But as this country was not settled until lonir after- wards, and the charter became void by non-compliance with its terms, it couhl not be regarded as ijijurious by the colony, except as an evidence of the facility with which their chartered rights could be divested. Another ,^0,.-, instance of a more objeolionablc character soon occurred. Cecilius Calvert, Lord Baltimore, obtained a grant of that portion of Vir- ginia which is now included in the state of Maryland, and immediately commenced a settlement upon it, notwith.'itauding the value which the Vir- ginians set upon it, and their having actually made settlemenf.s within its limils.* William Claiborne who had been a member of the council and secretary of state for Virginia had obtained a license from the king to "traffic in those parts of America, where there was no license," which had been continued by Harvey. In pursuance of this authority he had settled him- self at Kent Island near the city of Annapolis, and seemed by no means in- clined tamely to relinquish his possessions. He resisted the encroachments of Maryland by force. This was the first controversy between the whites which ever took place on the waters of the Chesaj»eake. Claiborne was in- dicted and found guilty of murder, piracy and sedition, and to escape pun- ishment he fled to Virginia. When the Maryland commissioners demand- ed him, Harvey refused to give him up, but sent him to England to be tried. It is highly probable that the conduct of Harvey in giving up instead of protecting Claiborne, incensed the colony against him, for they clearly thought the Maryland charter an infringement of their rights, and they were little inclined to submit to imposition from any quarter. Burke himself who thinks the colony wished Claiborne to be given up to Maryland, says that in the year 1633 there Avas a developemcnt of a land speculation on the part of the governor, highly injurious to the colony. "It appears that by a collision with the king's commissioners, large tracts of land were disposed of to absentees, not unfrequently interferring with the rights of actual set- tlers, and involving subjects of fiiture litigation. By this proceeding, the colony was threatened Avith dismemberment, and :the niischiefs were ag- gravated by the conditions of those grants, which exempted the proprietors from the payment of quit rents. Property conveyed wilii such absolute and unqualified formalities, seemed to give the proprietors the rights of sovereign authority, instead of the guarded restraints of a foedal tenure ; and an abundant source of litigation was laid up for posterity by establishing an iviperiv.m inimpcrio^; within the bosom of the colony." Surely this specu- lation was ol itself sufficient cause for dissatisfaction, and renders it unne- cessary to look further to account for the conduct of Che colony. To have the lands for which they had fought and struggled with so much persever- ance, and through so many difficulties suddenly wrested from them by an act of arbitrary authority ; and their governor not only conniving, but making a speculation on the alienation of their blood bought territory, was enough to have excited a people to take even more summary vengeance than that aiTorded by a trial and ejection from the gubernatorial chair. Nor was it any palliation to the evil that few of their actual settlements were within the ceded territory, for they had not struggled so strenuously only for such small portion of groxnid as they might actually live upon, but upon ♦ Holme's Am. An. v. I. p. aUl, 2C.5. t Lord Fairfax held a Couil Barun,— Burke v. VI. p. 3b. 584 HISTORY OF VIRGmiA. a grant of a vast leiritory, wilh all its bcpad . waters, magnificcnl. forests, lofty mountains and fertile plains, — a niigJity empire worthy of the people who had strived so hard to win it. But now the whole south was cut off at one blow; the jurisdiction of the upper portion of their own beautiful bay which they actually occu])ied, was torn from th^m, their territory \a as se- vered into two portions by the intrusion of a new power into its centre, and the hardy citizens who had won the country and established the blessings of a free government, were to btnd the knee in feudal vassalage, or surren- der their homes and possessions to their new lords, who never struck a blow in the acquisition of their vast estates. Virginia sent a remonstrance in the name of all her planters, against the grant of Maryland: and the privy council unable to deny the manifest justice of their representations, but unwilling to offend the king by a decision against the validity of lord Baltimore's patent, decided that he might retain it, and the Virginians have their remedy at law. The law at that time in the king's courts, in cases in which he wasconcernedbcingtheking's will; the Virginiansdeclined.entering the tribunal, and making a virtue of necessity, entered into a treaty of com- merce and amity with their new neighbor. The account wliich we have of the trial of Harvey is c.vtrcmely mea'gte, detailing neither the accusations or the evidence, but only the fact. The manner of proceeding however, as it appears on the record, is as little Kke that of an enslaved people as it is like a "transport of popular rage and-iri-- dignation." The whole matter seems to have been conducted with calin de- ^liberadon, as a free people acting upon the conduct of an unworthy "servant. The first entry upon the subject runs thus : — "an Assembly .to be called to receive complaints against Sir John Harvey, on the petition of many inhab- itants, to meet 7th of May." Could as much cooltress, deliberation and publicity be given to action against a tyrant who had already trodden liber- ty under foot, or is a transport of popular rage so slow in action ?' The ~ next entry upon this subject is the following :— " on the 28th of April T685, Sir John Harvey thrust out of his government, and Captain John West acts as governor, till the, lying's pleasure known."* It appears frmh another ancient recordf that before the as,semtdy.me.t which was to hav6 heard complaints against Harvey, he agreed in, council to go to England to an- swer them, and upon that West Wcis elected governor. ' -/- '•''■ ' - How long AVesl governed is uncertait), but it appears By a papef'anSd^'g the records that Hiuvey was governor again in .l;inuary/1636. It "appears that Charles regarded the conduct of the colony as an unwarrantable' piece ■ of insolence little short of treason, and would not even hear themleast' the spetacle of so noble an example might inflame the growing discontents in his own kingdom, which finally rose to such a pitch as not only to take the same unwarrantable liberty of.deposing him, biit even laid violent hands ' upon his sacred person. He accordingly sent the conrmis.'^iorfefs Irbitie with their grievances untold, and Harvey was re instated in his power without undergoing even a trial. 7'he conduct of the colony appears 'to ^ have been a salutary lesson to him; and he probably feared that for the next ofTence they would take justice into their own hands; for we hear no complaints of him during his administration, which e.xpircd in November 1€39. Sir Francis Wyatt succeeded him. ♦ Hening v. I. 223. tList of governors; Hcning, v. 1. p. 1. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 665 In 1634 the colony vvas divided into eight shires,* which were to be go- verned as the shires in England, lieutenants were to be appointed in tha same manner as in England, and it was their especial duty to pjiy attention to the war against the Indians. Sheriffs, Sergeants and Bailiffs were also to be elected as in England. In 1628-9 commissions were issued to hold monthly courts in the different settlements, which was the origin of our county court system. f At the first assembly which was held after the return of Wyatt, several acts were passed, which from the inattention of historians to the circumstan- ces of the times, have received universal reprobation, but which when pro- perly considered, will be found to be marked with great shrewdness and dictated by the soundest policy. The act declares that, "tobacco by reason of excessive quantiiies made, being so low, that the planters could not subsist by it, or be enabled to raise more staple commodities or pay their debts: therefore it was tnocUd that the tobacco of that year be viewed by sworn viewers, and the rotten and unmer- chantable, and half the good to" be burned. So the whole quantity made would come to 1,500,000 lbs. without stripping and smoothing; and the next two years 170 pounds tobacco per poll, stript and smoothed, was to be made, which would make in the whole about 1,300,000 lbs. and all creditors were to take 40 lbs. for a hundred.'" By a second act it was declared that, "no man should be obliged to perform above half his covenants about freightmg to- bacco in 1639." Nothing -could be more absurd than such acts at the pre- sent day, and hence they have been pronounced absurd at that time. But let us look to the circumstances. Except the little tobacco made in the Somer Isles, Virginia at that time had the monopoly of the English market. The taste for tobacco vvas new, existed with feAv and could not be suddenly extended; consequently the consumption could not be increased in propor- tion to the increase of supply, but those who used it would obtain it at a price proportionably less. Thus a superabundant supply so glutted the market as to reduce the article to a price ruinous to the planters. On the other hand Avith those who had acquired a taste for tobacco, it was nearly indispensable, and if less than a usual crop \v9t made the demand enhanced the value of the remainder beyond that of the full crop, hence the propriety of burning half of the good tobacco. This seems to have been perceived, and we have seen no fault found with the first portion of the act, but the latter part, forcing creditors to take less than their full dues, has been pro- nounced flagrantly unjust. But if this had not been done what would have been the condition of the planter ? If he had m.ade a hundred pounds, and owed fifty, the burning and his creditor would deprive hirn of his whole crop, whilst the creditor receiving the fity pounds at its enhanc^ value, would receive more than double what was due him This would have been highly oppressive to the debtor, and made the whole act redound en- tirely to the benefrt of the creditor. Whereas making him take 40 pounds in the hundred, when that 40 was enhanced to more than the value of the hundred, was no hardship. r _f In the early stages of the colony, the planters vvanted the cxjmfoTts of life from Eng'l and and not money, for money 'could purchase nothing in ♦ Viz: James City, Henn.o, Charle.s City, Elizabeth City. War«,. k nv^r, Warros quoyokp, Charles rivpr and Accomark. tSee Note A at the end of thi^ chapiri . 74 5^6:^ HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. America. It would bave been wasteful extravagance to have brought it. The Virginians liad but one article of export, — all trading vessels came for tobacco, — whence that would purchase every thing, and became on that, account useful to every man and an article of universal desire as money is ia other countries, and hence the standard of value and circulating medium of the colony. We find when money first began to be introduced, as the keeping accounts in tobacco was inconvenient to the foreign pier-; chants who came to trade, an act was passed with the following preamble, — "Whereas it hath been the usual custom of merchants and others deal- ing intermutually in this colony, to make all bargains, contracts, and to keep all accounts in tobacco, and not in money," &.c. It then goes on to eniact that in future they should be kept in money, and that in all pleas and ac-r tions the value should be represented in money. This was in 1638.* But it was found so inconvenient to represent value by an arbitrary stand- ard, the representative of which did not exist in the colony, that another act, Avas passed in January 1641, declaring that, — "Whereas many and great inconveniences do daily arise by dealing for money, Be it enacted an(t confirmed by the authority of this present Grand Asseinbly, that all money debts made since the 26th day of March, 1642, or which hereafter shall be; made, shall not be pleadable or recoverable in any court of justice under this government,"! An exception was afterwards made in 1642-3, in favor of debts contracted ior horses or sheep,;}: but money debts generally were doJ, even made recoverable again until i656.|| We thus see that tobaccqi ;\vas the currency, and an excess as injurious as an over issue of bank paper^ depreciating itself in th<^.-)[narket. or in common parlance causing every thing to rise. We. see ry-Oreover, the cause of the excessive care taken ,ia burning bad tobacco, since ttxat wa? as important to the uniformity of their currency as the -eiclusion of counterfeits in a money currency. All the viewings, censorships, inspections, regulations of the amount to he culti- vated by each planter, each hand, — the quantity to be gathered from each plant, — the regulations prescribed as to curing it, — are to be regarded more as mint regulations than as regulations of agricultural industry. Indee4 we iind the attempt to seiL^aap pay;,ha4-jli»t>3cco is made a crime precisely as it is now to sell or pay counterfeit rnoney.^ This act of Assembly then allowed debtors to dischai=ge themselves by paying half their debts i» amount, did in effect make them pay all in value, ■AnA can by no means be compared to the acts of slates or princes in debasing the coin and allow,- ing it to retain it&j&ld nominal value, «r by introducing valueless papej money; in these cases, the debt is- paid nominally or in words but not in value, whereas in Virginia it was not paid nominally as it had beeji coii- fera«ied for so many jjounds o( tobacco, but it was paid in /(?w«^r pouiMls rendered of greater actual value than the debt would have aaaaojint«d,t(j.|f paid in 7?o?i»(is -before the burning. of half the quantify made.H - > .- » jfgj * Hening, v.'l. p. 21G. VHenning, v. I. p. 26-2. •-'■■^■' •' '* " t Ibid. 268. - - If Ibjd. 417. ' §Henning, v.T'p: 15-i. "~-' IT We are sorry to see even Mr. Bancroft (p. 218.) cen.snring this as an act of injtis- jice, ami comparing it with debasing the coin. In order to acconnt for the Act he even casts a shir upon the Cormcil and Assembly, and says, " Probably the members of the Legislature and the Council were themselves much in debt." If they had passed the burning act wi4;hout the other clause one might well have supposed them large creditors, since it woiild have more than doubled in value what was due to them, whilst the amount in pounds would have remained the same.. In short the, act would have been to make every planter loose the tobacco jDurOed, and his creditors g«t the advantage of the burning, HISTORY OF VIRGINIA.' 587 Wyatt remained g-overnor only for one year and a few months, when h^ was succeeded by Sir William Berkeley. Historians who have not been awartf of the intermediate administration of Wyatt, and have heard no com- plaint of Berkelev, have delightL-d to deck his character in the gayest colors, in contrast to the black character which they have drawn of Harv* y. There can be no doubt that he was esteemed an accomplished and chivalric gentle- man; but his accession brought no increase of political freedom to Virgi- nia, and his commission did not difler from those of his predecessors. On the contrary the instructions which he brought, so far from granting ne\^ franchises, imposed new, severe, and unwarrantable restrictions on the lib- erty of trade; England claiming that monopoly of colonial commerce, which was ultimately enforced by the navigation act, and which was a per- petual source of contention, until all differences were finally healed by the revolution.* Berkeley arrived in February, 1642; an assen^bly met in March, and soon after passed a solemn protest against a petition which Sir George San- dys had presented to Parliament for the restoration of the company. This paper is drawn with great ability, and sets forth the objections to the petition in very strong and striking terms. They enlarge especially upon the wish and power of the company to monopolise their trade; the advantages and happiness secured to them by their present form of government, with its annual assemblies and trial by jury; the fact that a restitution of the power of the company would be an admission of the illegality of the king's au- thority and a consequent nullification of the grants and commissions issued by him; and the impossibility of men, however wise, at such a distance and unacquainted with the climate or condition of the country, to govern the colony as well as it could be governed by their own Grand Assembly. t The king in reply to this declared his purpose not to change a form of go- vernment in which they received so much content and satisfaction. ' ' ' Other important matters were settled at this legislature. A taxfor thef benefit of the governor was abolished. The punishment by condemnatron to temporary service was abolished, which had existed ever since the foun* dation of the colony; and this preteetion' to Ifberty was considered as so important to the Assembly that they declared it was to be considered as a record by the inhabitants of their birthright as Englishmen, and that the oppression of the late company was quite extinguished. The governor probably received some benefit from these considerations, for he is praised for giving his assent to an act in which he preferred the public freedom to his particular profit. A nearer approach was made to the laws and cus- toms of England in proceedings of courts and trials of causes. Better re- gulations were prescribed for discussing and deciding 'and titles. The bounds of parishes were more accurately marked. A treaty with Mary- land, opening the trade of the Chesapeake was matured; and peace Tvith the Indians confirmed. Taxes were proportioned more to men's estates and abilities than to the numbers, by which the poor were much relieved, "but which through the strangeness thereof could not but require much time and debating." They published a list of their acts in order to show to the colony that they had not swerved from "the true intent of their hap- .py. constitution," which required them to "enact good and wholesome laws, :;)V^ancroft,V. I. p.219. .,--..- -^'"tHening.V. I. P.-231-4. " " ' : > S^t HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. and rectify and relieve such disorders and grievances as are incident to all states and republics; but that their late consultations would redound g-reatly to the. benefit of the colony and their posterity." In the conclusion of that list they state that the gracious inclination of his majesty, ever ready to protect them, and now more particularly assured to them, together M-ith the concurrence of a happy parliament in England, — were the niotives which induced them to take this opportunity to "establish their liberties and privi- leges and settle their estates often before assaulted and threatened, and late- ly invaded by the corporation; and to prevent the future designs of mono- polizers, contractors, and preemptors, ever usurping the benefit of their la- bors; and they apprehended that no time could be misspent, or labor mis- placed in gaining a firm peace to themselves and posterity, and a future im- munity andease to themselves from taxes and impositions, which they ex- pected to be the fruits of their endeavors." The Indians had been driven back, and weakened by a perpetual succes- sion of hostilities from the time of the great massacre until the year 1644. During the latter years of this period we have little account of their pro- ceedings, hut the rapid increase of the settlements had drjven them from the rich borders of the rivers in the lower country higher into the interior, and the new grants were ev^ery day diiving them still further from the homes of their fathers. This incessant warfare, whilst it weakened them as a na- . „ . tion, had increased their cunning and skill in partisan warfare. Op'e- chancanough, though now so old that he had to be carried in a litter, and so feeble that he could not raise his eyelids without assistance, still re- tained sufficient strength of mind to embody a combination of the various tribes under his control* and make a sudden and violent attack upon many of the frontier settlements at once. Little is known of the circumstances attending this second great massacre. An act of Assembly of 164.'>, mak- ing the eighteenth day of April a holyday and day of thanksgiving, for escape from the Indians, marks the period of the massacre. Other evidence makes the number of their victim.s three hundred.* The precautions which the whites had been tausriit to taie by the previous massacre, in trading with them only at particular places, iii always going armed, in never admitting them to the same familiarity, efTeclually prevented them, with all their cau- tion in approach^ and violence of attack, from committing as great slaughter as they had upon the former occasion. The whites do not seem to have been stricken with a panic now gs fornnerly, but quickly sallied upon their assailants, and drove them hack so rapidly that their venerable chieftain himself had to be deserted by his attendants, and Avas taken by Sir William Berkeley, at the head of a squadron of light cavalry. He was carried to Jamestown,. and manifested in his imprisonment the same haught}'^ dignity which had always distinguished him. He preserved a proud and disdaiii- ful silence, and such indifference to the passing scenes, that iie rarely re- quested his eyelids to be raised. In this melancholy condition, he was basely shot in the back by his sentinel, with whom recollection of former injuries overcame all respect for helpless age, or former greatness. The only subject which called forth any show of i*egret from him was a flash of angry indignation, at being exposed in his dying hours to the idle and curious gaze of his enemies. ♦Bancroft, p. ^24— Burke, V. II, p. 55, says— on authority of Beverley— " five hun- dred." inSTORY OF VIRGINIA. C89 - So liule regaiil was now paid lo the Indian lio.stiliti<;s, that on the follow- ing June, Sir William Berkeley sailed for England, and Uie council elected Richard Ivemp to occupy his post until his return. In the mean timp, the warfare with the Indians continued without remission. It appears by an act of the latter part of the year 1G44, that many of the inhabitants, proba- bly on the frontiers, had been collected in large bodies; but leave was therj given them to dispose of themselves "for their best advantage and conve- nience, provided that in places of danger, there yhould not be less than ten men allowed to settle."* Sir William Berkeley again took possession of his government in June, Oct *" ^CdC ^^^^- And in the following year a treaty of peace was con- ' ■ eluded with the Indians, by which Necotowance, the succes- sor of Opechancanough, acknowledged that he held his kingdom of the crown of England, and agreed that his successors should be appointed or confirmed by the king's governor; on the other hand the Assembly on be- half of the colony, undertook lo protect him against rebels and all enemies wliatsoever. In this treaty the Indians were permitted to dwell on the north side of York river; but ceded to the whites all the country from the falls of the James and York to the bay, forever; and any Indian coming upon that territory was to suffer death unless he bore the badge of a messenger. The Indians were also to surrender all prisoners, negroes, and arms taken. Other articles were added prescribing the form of intercourse.! Thus were the Aborigines at length finally excluded from their father-land, leav- ing no monument of their having existed, save ihe names of the waters and mountains, and the barrows containing the ashes of their ancestors. | Thus the colony of Virginia acquired the management of all its con- cerns; war was levied, and peace concluded, and territory acquired, in con- formity to the acts of the representatives of the people; whilst the people of the mother country, had just acquired these privileges after a long and hloody conflict with their former sovereign. Possessed of security and quiet, abundance of land, a free market for their staple, and practically, all the rights of an independejit slate, having. Engl.iijd for its guardian against foreign oppression, rather than its rrjler, the colonii^ts enjoyed all the pros- perity which a virgin soil, equal laws, and general uniformity of condi- tion and industry, could bestow. Their numbers increased; the cottages were filled with children, as the ports were with ships and emigrants. At Christmas, 1G48, there were trading in Virginia, ten ships from London, two from Bristol, twelve Hollanders, and seven from New England. The number of the colonists was already twenty thousand; and they, who had sustained uo griefs, were not tempted to engage in the feuds by which the mother country was divided. They were attached to the cause of Charles, lfi4Q *^°^ because they loved monarohv, but because they cherished the lib- ■ ■ erties of which he had left them in the undisturbed possession; and ♦ Hening, p. 285-6. tHening, V. I. p. 3-23, 32t;. }I know uf nu such thing existing as aij Indian monument — of labor on the large scale — I think there is no remain as respectable as would be a common ditch loi the draining of lands; unless indeed it would be the barrows, of which many are lo be found all over the country. — That they were repositories of the dead has been obvious to all ; but on what particular occasion constructed, was a matter of doubt. — Jefferson's Notes on Va., p. 132. W HISTORY OF VIRGINIA- after his execution, though tliere were not wanting some who favored Re- publicanism, the government recognised his son without dispme.* : ■ •■ - " The loyalty of the Virginians did not escape the attention of the royal Tine IfO ^^^^^'i ^'"oni his retreat in Breda he transmitted to Berkeley a ' ■ new commission, and Charles the Second, a fugitive from Engi land, was still the sovereign of Virginia.t . - .. But the Parliament did not long permit its autViority to be denied. Hav- ing, by the vigorous energy and fearless enthusiasm of republicanism, tri- umphed over all its enemies in Europe, it turned its attention to the colo- nies; and a memorable ordinance at once empowered the council of state to reduce the rebellious colonies to obedience, and at ihe same time, estab- lished it as a law, that foreign ships should not trade at any of the porta* "in Barbadoes, Antigua, Bermudas and Virginia." Thus giving the first example of that v^-holesale blockade afterwards rendered so notorious by the celebrated orders in council during the Avars of the French revolution. Maryland, which was not expressly included in the ordinance, had taken care to acknowledge the new order of things; and Massachusetts, alike unwilling to encounter the hostility of parliament, and jealous of the rights of independent legislation, by its own enactment, prohibited all intercourse with Virginia till the supremacy of tlie commonwealth should be establish- ed; although the order, when it was found to be injurious to commerce, was promptly repealed, ev^en while royalty still flourished at Jamestown.]; - A powerful fleet with a considerable body of laud forces on board, sent out to bring the colonies to submission, having subdued Barbadoes and- Antigua, cast anchor before James I'own. Sir William Berkeley and his hardy colonists had not- been inactive, the growing strength of the colony iiad recently been mcreased by the acquisition of many veteran cavaliers from the king's army, and it now presented no comtemptible force. Seve- ral Dutch ships which were lying in the river, and Avhich as trading con- trary to the prohibition of Parliament, were armed'to provide againstsur- ^rise by the commonwealth's fleets, were also pressed into service. This, show of resistance induced the commissioners of ParliamBut to hesitate, before they attempted to reduce tl^ colony to obedience by force; and to (oflfer them fair and honorable terms of submission. The terms offered be- ing such as completely satisfied the Virginians that their freedom was to ^e preserved inviolate, and their present happy constitution guaranteed, whilst they were to suffer nothing for past conduct, readily acquiesced, since they gained all by such a surrender which they could effect by the most successful warfare. It appears that they never anticipated anything more than the preservation of their own liberties from wanton violation from the new and untried power which now held the reins of government in England ; and could scarcely have been mad enough to hope to effect anything favorable to the king by their resistance.)] , ♦Renins, V. 1, p. 359--60. Act 1. tBancroft, V. I, -i^S-e. t Bancroft, V. I, p. 226-7. II We have differed from Bancrof't upon this suLject, who savs, p. 240. "No sooner had the Guinea frigate anchored in the waters of the Chesapeake, than 'all thoughts of resistance were laid aside,' [Clarendon, B. XIII. p. 4fiG, 467.] and the colonists having no motive to contend for a monarch, vvliose fortunes seemed irretreivable,. were earnest only to assert the freedom of their own institutions." There can be np; doubt but Burke, vol. II. p. 82, drew largely upon his imagination for the briUiaat colors in which he paints Berkeley's attitude of resistance, the outline of -the picim^ HISTORY OF VIRGINIAS 591 The articles of surrender are roiii^ltulcd belween tlie (•nriiini>sioiicrs of the comnionwoiillh, and the council of st;ile, and Uraud AsrseinKly of Vir- ginia ; as equal trrating with equal. It secures: — 1st. That this shouJd be considered a voluntary act, not forced or con- strained by a conquest upon the country; and that the colonists should have and enjoy such freedoms and privileges as belong to the freeborn people of England. 2dly. That the Grand Assembly as formerly should convene and trans- act the affairs of Virginia; doing nothing contrary to the government of the commonwealth or laws of England : 3dly. That there should be a full and total remission of all acts, words or writings against the Parliament ; 4thly. That Virginia should have her ancient bounds and limits granted by the charters of the former kings, and that a new charter was to be sought from Parliament to that efiect, against such as had trespassed upon their ancient rights: — [This clause would seem to be aimed at some of the neighboring colonies.] 5thly. That all patents of land under the seal of the colony, granted by the governor, should remain in full force : 6thly. That the privilege of fifty acres of land for every person emi- grating to the colony should remain in full force : 7thly. That the people of Virginia have free trade, as the people of Eng- land enjoy with all places and nations, according to the laws of the ccfm- monwealth, and that Virginia should enjoy equal privileges in every respect with any other colony in America : 8thly. That Virginia should be free from all taxes, customs aiKl imposi- tions whatsoever, and that none should be imposed upon them without the consent of their Grand Assembly. And no forts or castle be erected, or garrisons maintained without their consent : 9thly. That no charge should be required from the country on accouhi of the expence incurred in the present fleet : lOthly. That this agreement should be tendered to all |>ersons, and that such as should refuse to subscribe to it, should ha^e a years time to remove themselves and effects from Virginia, and in the meantime enjoy equal jus- tice. The remaining articles were of less importance. This was followed by a supplemental treaty, for the benefit of the governor and councils and suclt soldiers as had served against the commonwealth in England ; allowing them the most favorable terms. If this v^'tls a conquest, — happy would it be for most colonies tobe co«-- quered ; every privilege was secured which could pos.sibly be -asked, and the liberties of the colony were established more thoroughly than they had he probably found in his ancient rccord.s. The authority upon which we rest is the act of indemnitj' itself (Hening, p. 3G7.) issued by the Parliamentary coniinissioners, — that act recites that having brought a fleet and force before James Cittic in Vir- ginia, to reduce that colony under the obetlience of the commonweallli of England, and finding force raised by the governor and country to make opposition against the said fleet, whereby a.ssured danger appearing of the ruin and destruction of the plantation, for prevention whereof the Burgesses of all the several plantations being called to advise and assist therein, upon Ions; and serious debate, [during which we must suppose the hostile attitude was continued,] and in sad contemplation of the great miseries and certain destruction, which were so nearly hovering over thLs whole country," &c. — We suppose there might have been also smne little danger to the commonwealth's men and ships. 592 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. ever been, and the conquest was only less favorable to Virginia than her declaration of independence, by having her rights depending upon the pledged faith of another nation, instead of having them entirely under her cwn control. The correspondence between the rights now secured, and the rights mentioned in the Declaration of Independence as violated by the British king, is remarkable. All matters were thus happily and amicably arranged, and as Sir Wil- liam Berkeley was too loyal a subject to be willing to take office under Parliament, — Richard Bennett, one of the commissioners was elected gover- nor. A council was also elected with powers to act in conformity to the instructions they should receive from the Parliament, the known law of England, and the Acts of Assembly, and such other powers as the Assem- bly should think proper from time to time to give them. It was declared at the same session that it was best that officers should be elected by the Burgesses, "the representatives of the people;" and after discussion upon the propriety of allowing ihp governor and council to be members of the Assembly, it was determined that they might, by taking the same oath which was taken by the Burgesses. The Assembly thus having no writ- ten constitution as their guide, took upon themselves the office of a con- vention of the people, and granted or resumed powers as it might seem beat for the good of the country. The whites and the remnants of the neighboring Indian tribes continued to be upon good terms, and the latter were kindly and humanely treated by the guardian care of the Assembly. A slight irruption of the Rappahan- nocks, seems to have been soon terminated. But a new scene in the his- tory of the colony now presented itself The Rechahecrians, a tierce and warlike tribe came down from the mountains and took up a strong position on the falls of James river, with dx or seven hundred warriors. This ex- cited no little uneasiness, as it had been very difficult to extirpate the In- dians Avho had formerly possessed the spot. The first expedition against them failed, a new one was prepared and the subject Indians being called upon for aid furnished a hundred warriors, most of whom with their chief Totopotomoi, fell fighting gallantly.* When Bennett retired from office, and the Assembly elected Edward Digges M h'^\ IT'" his successor. The conmiissioners of the commonwealth a c o , oo. ^^^ ]\i\\e^ lo do with controling the destinies of Virginia, but were engaged in settling the afTairs and adjusting the boimdaries of Maryland. The Assembly reciting the articles of Agreement with the comniission- IVI h 1'^ ir=;R ^'^ °^ Parliament, which'admitted that the election of all ' ■ officers of the colony appertained to the Btirgesscs, the representatives of the people proceeded to the election of a governor and council until the next Assembly: and the choice fell upon "worthy Samnel Matthews, an old planter, of nearly forty years standing, a most dx^serving commonwealth's man, who kept a good house, lived bravely, and was a true lover of Virginia." t But this worthy old gentleman seems to have conceived higher ideas of his powers than the Assembly was willing to allow. The Assembly had determined not to dissolve itself but only to adjourn until the first of November.^ They then proceeded with their *Biirk, vol. 3. 104-106. TBancrofi, v. I. p. 213— quoiing II. M. lli:>t. Coll. v. IX. p. 110. mcnin", v. I. 497. i klS'l'URV OF VIRCJIJNIA. 593 ordinai'y businoft3, the first act passed for regulating lawyers; though they had cer- tainly attended the several courts befiire that period. By the first law on the subject, no attorney was permitted to jilead, without a license; which was grantable by the court in which he practised ; nor could an attorney have a license from more courts than the quarter, and one county court, — Their fees were twenty pounds of tobacco, in the county, and fifty pounds in the quarter court : and no attorney could refuse to be retained unless employed on the other side. In lG-15, all mercenary atlornies were expelled trom oflice: In ItilT, that act was amendcil by adding a clause to it declaring that no attornies should take any fees; and if the courl'should i)erceive that either pai> ts', by his weakness, was likely to lose his cause, they themselves should either open the case or " appoint some fit man out of the people," to plead the cause, and allow him a reasonable compensation : no other attornies were admitted. In U>5G, the act prohibiting altoinies was iei)ealetl; the governor and council were autlR)rised to li- cense them tur the (piuiicr ciiurts, and iIk- commi.ssioners for the county courts, and r>98 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. if any controversy should arise concerning their fees, it was to be settled by the courts respectively. In 1G57-8, tlie law against mercenary attornies, was again revived. An inspection of the diflerent fee bills will shew the simplicity of judicial proceed- ings, and the small compensaiion allowed to the oflicers of court. The first officers whose fees were established by law, were the secretary who was clerk of the quarter court, and the marshall, who executed the same duties which devolved upon the she- riff, after the appointment of that olticer, which was not until the year 1034. The fees of clerks and sherifts embraced but few objects, and were very moderate. Clerks of county courts were, at one time, appointed by the governor, but after- wards by the courts themselves. Commissioners of county courts, (the same as jus- tices of the peace) were formerly appointed by the governor, afterwards by act of as- sembly ; but at the commencement of the commonwealth they were appointed by the house of burgesses ; afterwards they were recommended by their courts, and commis- sioned by the governor and council, and finally their appointment was confirmed by the assembly. During the same period the county courts recom)nended three or more to the governor and council, out of which they made a selection forsherids, who were to continue in office for one year only. No representative government was ever instituted in which the principles of iini- versal suffrage, and o\ full representation, were carried further than in Virginia. The right of suffrage was originally exercised by all freemen; who were not compellable to go from their plantations to vote for burgesses; but might give their suffrages by subscribing a paper. This mode having been attended with considerable inconveni- ence, it was provided that all future elections should be by plurality oixuices present ; and a fine was imposed on dAX freemen, who should fail to attend at the time and place appointed for the election. The number of burgesses to di plantation or settlem,€nt (be- fore the formation of counties) was unlimited; nor does it appear that, at that time, any particular qualifications were necessary. After counties were laid ofl', the num- ber of representatives to a county remainedwithoul limitation, until November, 1645, when they were reduced to four to each county, except James City county, which might send five, and the city itself one; and the election was directed to be held where the county courts were, except in those places which were specially authorised by act of assembly to hold elections. These were certain jfwr^sAt.b- to which that privilege was granted; and it was afterwards extended to all parishes, they paying the expenses of their burgesses, as the counties in general were compelled to do in relation to tl>eirs. At the March session, lfifiO-1, the number of burgesses was limited to two for each coumy, and one for James City, it being tiie metropolis. The first act which in the smallest degree abridged the right of suflYage, or pre- scribed- the qualifications of the members, passed at the March session, 1G54-5. By this act it was declared, that the persons who should be elected to serve rn assembly be such, and no "oilier than such, as were persons of known integrity and of good "conversation, and of the age of one and twenty years." That all house keepers, " whether freeholders, lease-holders, or otherwise tenants, should only be capable lo elejt burgesses ;" provided that the term " house-keepers shoiild extend no further than " to one person in a family." At the next session, however, so much of this act as excluded any freeman from voting was repealed: the assembly declaring " that they conceived it something hard and unagreeable to reason that any persons should pay " equal taxes, and yet have no votes in election." In the revisal of 1657-8, the same principle is preserved ; the right of .suJfVage being extended to " all persons inhabiting " in the colony, that are phee men." By an act of lG7i», that right was, for the first time, confined to free holders only ; and the necessity of this qualification was fur- ther enforced by instructions from king Charles II, to sir Wm. Berkeley, governor, in 1676: " You shall take care," says the second article of the instruction.s, " that the "members of the assembly be elected, only by free holders, as being more agreeable " to the custome of England, to which you are as nigh as conveniently you can to con- form yourselfe." Bridges and ferries were at first established and maintained at public expense; but this being considered burthensome to the inhabitants of many of the counties, espe- cially the poor, who seldom used them; the law, as to ferries, was repealed, and the county courts vested with power to establish ferries on the application of individuals, and fix their rates. The exclusive right of c:stablishing ferries was afterwards re- sumed by the assemblv ; and having exercised it for a .series of years, to the great in- terruption of other public business, the iegislnture at the session of ISOf., re^lore(l lo tlie county courts the power eyercisei; by iliem s.i ]< opponents, — Cruelty of Berkeley, — King' s commissioners, — Departure of Berkeley awl his death. — Acts of Assembly passed during Bacon s in/lnence. — Conduct of king^s comfnissioners, — Culpeper governor, — Discontents, — Conduct of Beverly. — Howard governor. ^-General conduct of Virginia and progress of affairs. — Plan of Callier for dividing the British colonics. As Virginia had provided for herself a government substantially free^ the political changes in England could have little cflect upon her repose, provided no attempt was made to interfere with the freedom of her trade, or her local government. She seemed content to be under the protection rather than control, of whatever power the people of England thought proper to place at the head of affairs, provided Lliat power did not seek to extend the conceded authority. In this mood she had adhered to Charles I. until the Parliament by its commissioners promised a preservation of all her privileges; she aclaiowledged Cromwell upon a similar promise, and his son Richard under the same idea; upon his resignation she held her- self aloof, thus proving how perfect and how independent was her own local government, until the voice of England should declare who should rule; and upon the accession of Charles II. she gave in her allegiance to him. As in all these British changes she remained unconcerned and un- moved, so the last caused neither extraordinary joy or regret. The colo- nists thus free from external sources of uneasiness, proceeded to legislate upon internal matters ; providing rewards for the encouragement of silk and other staples ; negociating with Carolina and Maryland for the adop- tion of uniform measures for the improvement of tobacco, and diminishing its quantity; and providing for the erection of public buildings, the improve- ment of James Town, and other subjects of general utility. Whilst the colonists were pioceeding in this useful occupation they were 1663 ^'^''"**^^ ^y ^^^ intelligence of the recnaction of the navigation act, od'""-, with new prohibitions, and armed with new penalties. The 600 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA Virginians had long enjoyed a very beneficial trade with other countries besides England, and had early perceived its advantages, often urging the propriety of its continuance-, and contending that "freedom of trade was the life of a commonwealth." But the object of the navigation act was to con- fine its trade exclusivel)^ to England, for the encouragement of English shipping and the emolument of English merchants, as w^ell as. the promo- tion of the king's revenue ; without regard to the gross injury, done to the colony by depriving her of the benefit of competition in her harbors. Tiie, colony remonstrated in vain, and continued boldly her trade with all sue-h- foreigners as would venture to encounter the risque of being taken by the English cruisers and encountering the penalties of the act. It appears to have been for some time the practice to send felon.s and other obnoxious persons to the colony, to expiate their offences by serving the planters for a term of years. At the restoration many of. the veteran soldiers of Cromwell to \vhom it was anticipated the'relurn of the .ancieii. regime would not be particularly palatable, were- shipped -to Virginia to work olT their .'^pleen in the cultivation of tobacco. It appears that this new business was not as agreeable to them as they had found the psalm- singing and plundering of the royali?ts under the command of their devout leader; and they accordingly quickly organized an insurrection, by. the operation of which they were to change places with such of their, masters, as were left alive by the process. But this outbreaking which sc.en^s..l0- have been well planned and extensively organized, was prevented by t.b^e compunction of one of their associates, who disclosed the AvJ^oJeafT^ir l§ the governor the ev^ening before it was to have gone into effecL; and ade? p, , -o quate means were taken to prevent the design. Four ol the con-... spirators were executed. B-ut this evil of imppririig- jcui-LurjU as they were called, increased to such an e.\ tent that it was prohibited by the General Court in 1670, under severe penalties.* The increase in the amount of tobacco.raised by the increa.'^e oi i In- < pjoiiy T r- ^nrr- and thc Settlement "of IMarvlaRd and Ca rol iua, far oulyLnDped the increase of tiistc for it, rapid as that was, and caused such-af; glut of the commodity that its price Jell-to an anwunt utterly ruinotis to the planter. In this the exclusive privilege of purchase-which England enjoyed, notwithstanding the e.vtensive contraband trade, no doubt largely contributed; but this the planters could not prevent, and their only remaining resource was in diminishing the amount of tobacco raised.. To effect this vani.^it§: schemes had been devised, but they were all liablefo^be evaded, and were if successful, too partial in their operation to eflect' th^e objpct desired. Nothing could be efficient, short of a total rcsxn.linv, from planting for one year, and this was at last accomplished after long negotiations with-Mary- larid and Carolina. -- --^..^^ Many other staples had been recommended fiom time to time to the planters, and even encouraged by bounties and rewards, and this year it was thought would give them more leisure to attend to the subject. But it is not probable that many engaged in the occupations proposed, which re- quired the investment of capital, the acquisition of skill, and. the aid of time to render them profitable; and the year's leisure only served to increase the growing discontent, especially a.'^ towards its cndAIaryland began to be suspected of bad fiiith. • • ♦Hening, v. II. p. 510. HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 601 There were other causes of discontent which probably prevailed between different classes of society. Loud complaint was made of the manner in which taxes were levied, entirely on persons without regard to property, which as there must have been a very large class of poor free p'-^rsons now existing from the frequent emancipation, and expiration of the terms of those who came over as servants, besides those who were free but poor when they came to the country, must have created considerable excitement. An effort was made to remedy this evil by laying a tax on property but ineffectually; the only result being a small export duty on tobacco, in aid of the general revenue. While the taxes bore thus hard upon the poorer portion of the communi- ty they also had just reason to complain of exclusion from the right of suffrage by an act of 1670, and from the Legislature, to which none but freeholders could be chosen ; as well as of the enormous pay which the Burgesses appropriated to themselves, of one hundred and fifty pounds of tobacco per diem, and one hundred for their horses and servants. The forts were also complained of as a source of heavy expenditure without any benefit; their chief use indeed being rather injurious, as 'they kept off traders who violated the navigation acts. But these evils in domestic legislation were trivial compared wilh those produced by the criminal prodigality of Charles, who wantonly made exorbitant grants to his favorites of large tracts of lands, without a knowl- edge of localities, and consequently without regard to the claims or even the settlements of others. To cap the climax of royal munificence the gay monarch in perhaps a merry mood, granted to Lords Culpeper and Arlington the whole colony of Virginia for thirty-one years, with privileges effectually royal, as far as the colony was concerned, only re- serving some mark of homage to himself This might be considered al court perhaps as a small bounty to a favorite, but was taken in a very seri- ous light by the forty thousand people thus unceremoniously transferred. The Assembly in its extravagance only took from them a great proporlion ol their profits ; but the king was filching th^ir capital, their lands, and their homes which they had inherited from their fathers, or^laboricusly ac- quired by their own strenuous exertion. The Legislature sent three deputies to England to remonstrate with the king against these intolerable grants, to endeavor to procure his assent to some charter which might secure them against &uch impositions for the future : and if they should fail in the first of these objects to endeavor to buy out the rights of the patentees. To bear the expense of these three deputies, Mr. Ludvvell, Mr. Morryson. and JMv. Smith, the enormous annual tax of fifty pounds of tobacco was laid upon every tithable person for two years, which, though it was for a popular object, was considered as of its<^lf an intolerable grievance, at which we cannot wonder when we reflect that many who had to pay this tax did not own a foot of land. The amourt can only be accounted for by supposing much of it was to be used as secret service motiey, with such of hio majesty's minions as could only see justice through a golden medium. These deputies e.verted themselves uith remarkable success, and pro- cured from the king an order for a charter, preeiiely in conformity to the petition which they presented, and providing against the grievances oi which they complained; especially grants from the crown without infor- mation from the rrovf-rnor and coiuicil in Virginia that c-uch grant would 76- 602 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. be of no injury; dependence immediately upon the crown of England and not on any subfeudatory ; and exemption from taxation without consent of the Grand Assembly. His majesty ordered the solicitor general and attor- ney general to prepare a bill embodying these and the other matters em- braced in their petition in due legal form for his signature ; but the matter, notwithstanding the most assiduous attention of the deputies, was so long delayed in going through the official forms that it was finally stopped, be- fore its completion, in the Hanaper office, by the news of Bacon's Rebel- lion.* Soon after the deputies left Virginia, the difTiculties of the colony had been increased by the addition of an Indian war, which although not now as formerly a matter causing danger of destruction to the whole colony, and requiring all its strength to repel it, was yet a subject of great terror and annoyance to the frontier. A standing army of five hundred men, one-fourth of which was to consist Mar 7 1675 °^ •^'^^''^'''7' '^'^^^ ^^'^^^ by the Legislature, and every provision made for their support and regulation ;t but after It was raised and in a complete state of preparation to march against the Indians, it was suddenly disbanded by the governor without any apparent cause. ;}: This was followed by earnest petitions to the governor from various quarters of the coun- try, to grant a commission to some person to chastise the Indians, the petition- ers offering to serve in the expedition at their own expense. This reasonable request was refused, and the people seeing their country left defenceless to ^the inroads of a savage foe, assembled of themselves in their primary 'Capacity, in virtue of their right of self-defence, to march against the ene- ' my. They chose for their leader Nathaniel Bacon, junior, a young gen- ■tleman of highly respectable family and education, who although he had returned to Virginia but three years before, from the completion of his studies in England, had already received the honor of a colonel's rank in the militia and a seat in the Legislature for Henrico, in wh-'ch county his estate lay, — exposed by its situation to the fury of the Indians. He stood high in the colony, and was possessed of courage, talent and address which fitted him well for such an enterprise. After Bacon had been selected :by this volunteer army as their leader, his first step was to apply to the governor for a commission, in order if possible to have the sanction of the legitimate authorities for his conduct. The governor evaded this rational and respectful request, by saying that he could not decide upon so impor- tant a matter without his council, which he summoned to consult, at the same time artfully hinting to Bacon the injury which he migiit probably •*0o himself by persevering in his course. i^ Baron despatched messengers to James Town to receive the commi&siun which he did not doubt would be ultimately granted ; and as public impatience would not abide the dila- tory proceedings of the governor, and he was probably nettled at the in- sinuations addressed to his selfishness, in the governor's conmnmication, — he proceeded on his expedition, authorized only by the will of the pepple, the danger of the country, and the anxious wish of those who trusted their lives to liis conirol. »Heriicg, vol II. p. 531. t Henmg, vol. 11. 327. t Breviare and Conclusnm in Burke v. II. p. 2.')(>. 9 Ancient Records quoted by Burk, vol. II. p. 163. niSTnRY OF VIKCJIMA. 609 Sir William Berkeley, (wliose coudurt nolwitlistanding- the high enco* miums bestowed upon him, seems to have been marked in ordinary times only by a haughty condescension, which in his excellency was called suavity of manners, and in times of difficulty, by vacillating imbecility,) after tem- porising in the most conciliating manner with Bacon until bis departure, now denounced him and his followers as mutineers and traitors for daring to defend their country after his excellency had refused them a commission; and gathering together such forces as he could collect consisting princi- pally of the wealthy aristocrats in the settled country, who probably liked the mode of taxation which was least injurious to them, and who .iufiered little from Indian incursions upon the frontier, he marched to put down the rebellious troops. He had not proceeded further than the (alls of James river, when he received intelligence of a rising in the neighborhood of James Town of a more formidal)le nature than Bacon's, which compelled him to retreat and lake care of affairs at home. This new ebullition of feeling was headed by Ingram and Walklate, and was probably produced by the indignation of the common people at the absurd conduct of the governor in first refusing a commission to Bacon, and then marching to destroy him, whilst engaged in so useful an occupation ; be this as it may, we find them insisting upon dismantling the forts which were intolerably oppressive, without producing any good effect against an enemy whose progress was by stealth, whose onset was sudden and furious, and whose retreat was immediate. Against such an enemy active operations in the field were required, and the vigorous prosecution of the war in liis own country. The forts probably were, regarded by the poor as instruments of power in the hands of the rich; whicii they kept up by oppressive acts whilst they took measures to put down Bacon's operations, which consti- tuted the only hope which the pex>ple had for protection. The governor *'was obliged to yield to the storm. -The forts were ordered to be dismant- led, and the obnoxious Assembly W&.S dissolved, and writs issued for a new election, in which for the first time freemen, as distinguished from freehold- ers, were elected. ., ; ..v.*.".;-.- , In the mean time Bacon had been very stKceessful in defeating the In- dians, destroying their towns, and taking them captive, and Avas returning leisurely to James Town when he heard of the revolution there. This induced him to leave his little army and with a few followers embark for •-James Town, but he was taken on his voyage by Gardiner who was cruis- ing to intercept him ; and sent a prisoner to the governor. Bacon had been elected a member for Henrico in the new Legislature, and was par- doned and permitted to take his seat upon his confessing the impropriety and disobedience of his conduct, praying pardon of the governor and pro- -•nising future obedience. Credible report* says that he was induced to make this full and humiliating acknowledgmentf upon a promise by the governor not only of pardon but of a commission ; and indeed without supposing it the result of a compromise, it is difficult to account either for this act, or his subsequent conduct. 'I'he causes which induced his next step are not sufficiently explained by the historians of the times, but it was probably produced by the solicitations of bis friends in the Legislature, who found that they could gain no redress of grievances. He collected ♦See Breviareand Conclu.suni in Burk, v. II. p. ^.M. t Helling, v. II. p. 5i:}. 604 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. troops in the country, and marched to James Town ; he surrounded the state house with his enraged soldiers, demanding a commission for him, which by the earnest solicitation of the Council and Assembly was at length obtained from the governor, together with a full act of indemnity for his present conduct, and a letter highly applauding his designs and his proceedings addressed to the king and signed by the Burgesses, the Coun- cil and the governor. Thus relieved from all former sources of fear and provided against fu- ture contingencies Bacon again sallied forth towards the frontier. But the governor had not long been relieved from his preseiice before he dis- solved the Assembly and retiring into Gloucester again declared Bacon a rebel and his army traitors, and raised the standard of opposition. Upon being informed of this Bacon immediately fell back by forced marches upon Gloucester, and compelled his puissant excellency to retreat with precipitation to Accoraac. This county was at that time considered as a distinct territory although under the control of Virginia, and Bacon taking advantage of this against an unpopular governor, called a convention for the purpose of settling the government, declaring that the governor had abdicated. This convention met at Middle Plantation on the third of August, 1676, and declared that the governm.ent was vacant by the abdi- cation of Sir William Berkeley, and that by invariable usage the council or the people might fill the vacancy until the king's pleasure should be known. Writs were then issued by five* members of the council ibr a new election of Burgesses. The convention next declared Sir William Berkeley guilty of aiding and abetting certain evil disposed persons in fomenting and stirring up the people to civil war ; and that they would aid in discovering all such evil disposed persons and opposing their forces until the king be fully informed of the state of the case; and that they would aid Bncon and his army against the common enemy, and in sup- pres. Id . i|; iiniii-i (Miirages and murders daily committed by them. Bacu.i iwiviiig i!o\v provided a regular government for the country pro- ceeded once more again.5t ti)^-._J[ndia,ns, .who had formed a confederacy and gained several advantages since his retreat. He destroyed the Pamunkey, Chickahoniiny and Mattaponi towns and their corn, in retaliation of the late e,\cesses. The Indians retreated before him, with 0(xasional skir- mishes until they reached their place of general rendezvous near the falls of James river. He there found their whole force posted on an eminejcice overhanging a stream which from the sanguinary nature of the conflict has been since called Bloody Run. They were protected by a stockade fort, which was stormed by the impetuous ardor of Bacon and his follow- ei-s, who made great slaughter arnong them, encumbered as they were with their old men, women and children. .^ In the mean time Berkeley had not met with that warm reception which he had anticipated amongst the loyalists of Accomac, but on the other hand he had been presented with a strong and spirited remonstrance against the objectionable acts of Parliament, and a requisition that they should be suspended at least so far as regarded that portion of the country. How the matter terminated v»-e are not informed. * Burk, vol. II. p. 179, say.s — by Bacon and four other members of the Council, but the member of the Council was "Nathaniel Bacon, sen., and the General was Nath'l Bacon, jun., delegn,te for ficnrico. — Hening, vol. II. p. 544-5. HISTORY OF VIRCINIA, B05 The governor was not allowed to remain undisturbed in Accomac, until he could again succeed in raising a force which might give trouble. Ba- con's party u as in possession of all the vessels in the colony, and two of his friends, Giles Bland and William Carver, went with their force to cut off supplies from the governor, or as his friends surmised, to surprise him. But if such was their object they were defeated, for Capt. Larimore from whom one of the vessels had been taken, gave intimation to the governor's friends that he would betray his vessel into the hands of a party sufficient- ly strong to keep possession. The proposal was acceded to, and at mid- night six and twenty men, obeying Laiimorc's signal, were along side of his ship and had possession almost before the crew were aroused from their slumbers; the other vessels were then easily taken. Thus Sir Wil- liam finding himself in possession of the whole naval force of the colony whilst Bacon was absent in his expedition against the Indians, he collected together a force of some six hundred men, consisting mostly of aristocratic ge'ntlemen and their servile dependants, and took possession once more of James Town. As usual bis first act in returning to poAver was to disavow his acts in favor of Bacon as made under duress, and again to declare him a rebel, and his soldiers traitors. Bacon was on his return from his successful campaign w^hen this news reached him; most of his followers had dispersed, but he hastened on with the remainder without regard to their fatigues in the recent campaign. He arrived before James Town late in the evening, fired his artillery and sounded a defiance, and then cooly dismounted and laid off' his trenches. His men that very night by the aid of trees, earth and brush-wood formed a tolerable breast-work, and the next morning advanced to the palisadoes of the town and fired upon the guard, without loss. Sir William Berke- ley well knowing that time would increase the force of his adversary whilst it diminished his own, next resolved to try the effects of a sally, and some of his men at first behaved u-ith some show of courage, but the whole body soon retreated in disorder before the well directed fire of Bacon's men, leaving their drum and their dead as trophies to the victors. Bacon would not allow the victory to be followed up, as it would have placed his men under the range of the guns of the shipping. To prevent the use which might be made of this auxiliar}^, he planted several great guns, so as to beai^on the ships, which served also to alarm though they could not a>»noy the town. Now the marked difference which existed between the character of Ba- con's troops and those of the governor was exhibited, and that too in a man- ner well calculated to exhibit the character of Bacon's proceedings. Berkeley's troops consisting principally of mercenary wretches, Avhom he bad scraped together by the hopes of plunder, deserted every day when they found that'the governor was determined to defend the place, and that they were likely to get more blows than booty in the contest, until at last the governor was left with little more than twenty gentlemen, whose sense of honor would not allow them to desert his person. Bacon's troops on the other hand were daily reinforced by accessions from the country people, who clearly considered him as an intrepid soldier who had delivered them from the butcheries of the savages, and a patriot who was now endeavor- ing to put down an odious and oppressive government. The governor finding his followers reduced to so small a number that it would be madnes.s 1o attempt to defend the place, at length yielded to the 606 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. earnest solicitations of those about him, and deceiving his adversaries as to his real design by exhibiting evidences of a contemplated attack, he went on board a ship at midnight and was seen next morning riding at anchor beyond the reach of the guns in the fort at James Town. Bacon with his followers, after their week's seige marched into the empty tOAvn the next morning, the governor and his party having carried off or destroyed every article of value. The possession of James Town in this situation was of no advantage to Bacon or his followers. The men who had left their homes to defend their country from the incursions of the Indians, could not remain together for the purpose of defending the capital from their hostile governor, who was quietly waiting in the river for them to depart, in order that he might again resume possession. What could be done with a town which could not be defended, and if defended was of no value to the possessors; but which was all-important to the enemy? The answer to this question was manifest, and Bacon's proposal for its destruction was received with acclamation ; several of his followers, who owned the most valuable houses, applying the firebrand with their own hands to their own property. The sight of the flames started Sir William Berkeley on a cruize to Accomac ; and Bacon having overcome all opposition to the government established by the convention, dismissed his troops to their homes. We have little account of Bacon's proceedings after this successful ter- mination of his labors; we presume he did not do much as he was ill of a disease caught by sleeping exposed in the trenches before Jamestown, which in a short time terminated his existence. He died at the house of a Mr. Pate in Gloucester county. Thus died the distinguished individual, who overcame both the foreign and domestic enemies of his country, and ^eft it enjoying the blessings of a free government. Had he lived precisely a century later he would have been one of the distinguished heroes of the fevolulion, and historians would have delighted as much in eulogizing Kts conduct as they have, under existing circumstances in blackening his cha- racter. He accomplished »\\ which it was possible for him to do. He pever opposed the British government but only foreign enemies, and do- mestic mal-administration, which he succeeded in defeating. He seems al- ways to have acted by the consent and wish of the people, and never to ^ave sought self-agrandizement. It was manifestly impossible for him to elevate himself to absolute power in Virginia without the consent of the government in England, and the people of Virginia; and the idea of resist- ing both of these powers was absurd. For all the evils which accrued to the country after his death, and the restoration of Sir William Berkeley, he has been unjustly made responsible, whilst he has received no credit for his good conduct, or the beneficial acts passed by the legislature during his as- cendency. In short we can see no difference between his course, and that pursued in the previous expulsion of Sir John Harvey from the government, or the subsequent treatment of Lord Dunmore and many other royal go- vernors at the commencement of the revolution. The only difference be- tween the patriots of 1676 and 1776 was in the establishment of a free go- vernment, subject to the general controul of Great Britain, which was all that could be done in 1676, and the establishment of a free government in- dependent of Great Britain, which was accomplished in 1776. The unfor- tunate death of Bacon, and the power of the mother country, destroyed in a great measure the benefit of the exertion of the little ]»and of patriots of HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. 607 the first period, whilst the benefit of the latter have coiitiniied to exist. The loyal writers after the re-establishment of Ber^veley, sought to hide his pu- sillanimity by extolling his virtues, and blackening his adversary, in which they have been blindly followed by other writers, who have attribut- ed llie subsequent misery to the pruvious rebellion instead of to the avarice, malignity and revenge of the governor and his party, seeking to overawe and suppress popular indignation, and break the strength of the popular party by the forcible exertion of arbitrary authority, as w-ell as to avenge themselves for the indignities to which their own folly subjected them. On the other hand the patriots of the revolution have only received the just re- ward of their merit, in the lavish praises of a grateful posterity; and the loyal party of their day, has been justly handed down to universal execra- tion.* * It will be seen that we have formed a more favorable opinion of Bacon and his co- adjutors than has been generally expressed. This opinion was formed by a hasty perusal of all the documents to be found on the subject in Hening and Burke. We have followed in our account of his life the Breviare and Conclusum in Burke, which we believe is authentic; 1st. Because it was written by the king's commissioners, who would naturally be in favor of government, and were sent over at the special in- stance of Sir William Berkeley and upon his representations ; 2nd. Becau.se their ac- count is impartial, and consistent with itself and with other evidence; 3rd. Because they took every means to inform themselves, and could not have been infected with the warm partizan feeling of either side; 4th. And lastly, because the "justification of Sir William Berkeley," which M-as manifestly written by a warm friend and parti- zan, whilst it denies the truth of the Breviare and Conclusum, with regard to Sir William's conduct subsequent to the rebellion, does not deny its truth with regard to* the history of the rebellion itself. We see no act of aggression on the part of Bacon; the civil war is always commenced by the governor, whilst Bacon's attention is constantly diverted to hostilities with the Indians. We do not see Bacon arrogating power to himself but to the people. We find him after his first conduct acknowledging himself in error and asking pardon, and when we .see him afterwards bringing citizens to Jamestown, it is not to put supreme power into his own hands or to over- awe the legislature which was favorable to him, but it is to force the governor by the clamors of the people, to give him the commission wJ^ch was so necessary to the pre- servation of the colonists from the incursions of the savages. When he obtains this commission we do not see him use it agamst his country but its enemies. But the go- vernor first signs an indemnity, and even a letter to the king justifying and extolling the conduct of Bacon, and then when he is out of sight declares him a rebel and a traitor and prepares troops to oppose him, not in making war upon his country, but in actually fighting the Indians under his commission, and after his letter of praise. tjTnder these circumstances, when the govemor acted in a manner so friendly to the Indians and so hostile to the country, it was the duty of every honest man to resist his efforts, and to deprive him of his authority, to prevent his ruining the country which he ought to have protected. This Bacon "did. But did he then seize the reins of go- vernment, and play the tyrant,— no, he defeated the Indians, and would have di.-^- banded his army, had not the governor put down the government which the pcopie established, and a^ain set up his own authoritv, and declared Bacon's gallant little army traitors. Would it have been just to have then disbanded them to become the victims of his vengeance 1 Surely not. But it was his dutv to drive out the hostile governor, and establish the power of the people, and then retire. We may obtain much light upon the subject of Bacon's character and conduct by observing that an immense majority of the people were alwavs on his side, and that he acted by their advice and authurity as far as po.ssible. The governor was only sustained by a few haughty aristocrats of his o\ra stamp,— his warmest friends admit (Burke, vol. II. p. I8.'i,') that when he went to Accoinac he had not more than 20 men to stand by him; and that most of his followers in his return to Jamestown, were des- picable wretches, who were only induced to take sides with him against their country by the protnise of plunder, to be taken from the discomfitted rebels. TBreviare and Conclusum: Burke, vol- II. p. 2.52.) 608 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. The death of Bacon, by leaving the republicans without a head, revived the courage of the governcir so far, that he ventured in his ships to move about upon the bay and rivers and attack the inhabitants wherever he could find them defenceless, and snatch a little plunder to gratify his needy fol- lowers; always retiring when the opposite party appeared to oppose him. This predatory species of warfare, preventing the quiet pursuit of agricul- tural labors, and destroying all the comfort and happiness of society with- out producing any beneficial result, soon grew wearisome to both parties. Sir William Berkeley whose cruelties, especially to his prisoners* had gone far to keep up the enthusiasm of popular excitement, finding that his name had ceased to strike that awe which habitual respect for one high in authority had formerly given it, and that his punishments excited indigna- tion rather than terror, felt disposed to take advantage by milder means of the returning pacific disposition on the part of a people whose stubborn tempers could not be brought into obedience by force. With this view he treated his prisoners with more liberality, published an act of general in- demnity, and proposed a treaty of peace to Ingram and Walklate, the prin- cipal leaders oi the opposing party since the death of Bacon. So anxious were the people to be relieved from the present confusion and anarchy, and the governor once more to rule with uncurbed svvay, that a treaty was speedily concluded, onlj'- stipulating on the part of the governor a general oblivion, and indemnity of past offences, and on the part of his opponents a surrender of their arms and a restoration of such property as they had taken. Thus easily did these unfoitunate men deliver themselves again into the lions power, after having defeated him at all points, and inflicted deep and irremediable wounds upon his inflated vanity, and pompous mock- dignity. The governor when he had his enemies in his power, instead of trying to heal the wounds of the bleeding state by mildness and concilia- tion, only added to its sufferings by a bloody retribution for all the trouble which he had been made to endure. Fines and confiscations for the bene- fit of his excellency became the order of the day, and an occasional execu- tion as an extra treat to his vengeance. He at first attempted to wrest the honest juries of the county to his purpose, but in vain, — ten prisoners were acquitted in a single day. Finding that his enemies were thus likely to escape his grasp by the unflinching integrity, and sense of justice prevailing among the people, he determined to avoid (he use of a court constituted upon principles of the English constitution, which he found so little subser- vient to his will; and tried his next victims under martial law. He here found a court of more congenial spirits. The commissioners of the king give an account of some of these trials, such as they were carried on even after their arrival, which mark well the spirit of the times. " We also ob- served some of the royal party, that sat on the bench with us ai the trial, to be so forward in impeaching, accusing, reviling, the prisoners at bar, with that inveteracy, as if they had been the worst of witnesses, rather than jus- tices of the commission; both accusing anri condemning at the same time. This severe way of proceeding represented to the afrsembly, they voted an address to the governor, that he would desist from any further sanguinary punishments, for none could tell when or where it would terminate. So the governor was prevailed on to hold his hands, after hanging 23. "f A notable way which the governor adopted to replenish his purse ♦See Sarah Drummond's petition,— Henin?, vol. II. p. 558. tBreviare and Conclusum in Binkc, vol. II. p. 258. HISTORY 01-' VIRCJINIA. 609 slier liic disasters ol the war, was to relieve llie rebels from a trial in one of his courts martial, in which they were to be condemned, upon their paying him a great portion of their estates, by way of compromise. This method of disposing of nlen's estates without trial or conviction was protested atrainst by his majesty's commissioners as a gross violation of the laws of Hug-land, but which Sir William's friends seem to thtnk only a just retri- bution for the losses sustained by himself and the royal party during the rebellion,.* Enormous fines payable in provision were also found a conve- nient method of providing for the king's troops which had been sent over lo subdue the colony. His majesty's commissioners fortunately arrived in time to stay the wrath of the vindictive old man, who would as an eye witness says, " he verily believes, have hanged half the county if they had let him alone."t They urged him in vain to publish the king's proclamation of a general pardon and indemnity, and then proceeded to hold their commission for hearing and redressing grievances. As the proceedings of the governor difTused a gloom, the generality of which was co-extensive with the immense num- bers that were engaged in the rebellion, so did the proceedings of the com- missioners spread a universal joy. Crowds of persons now came forward to present their grievances; widows and orphans to ask for the confiscated cstites of their husbands, and fathers who had been butchered by the mili- tary tribunals of the governor; others come in to complain of the seizing their estates without the form of a trial, cind many who had submitted them- selves upon the governor's proclamation of indemnity and pardon, con- plained of subsequent imprisonment and confiscations of their property. The commissioners state in their report to the king and council,— that " in the whole course of their proceedings they had avoided receiving any complaints of public grievances; but by and under the hand of the most cred- ibli!, loyal and sober persons of each county, with caution, that they did not do it in any mutinous manner, and without mixture of their old leaven, but in such sort as might become dutiful subjects and sober, rational men to present." When they found that all their renresentatioiis to Sir William Berkeley, to endeavor to induce him to restore ftie confiscated estates, which .were in the possession of himself or his most faithful friends, were in vain, they ascertained as many of the possessors as possible, and riaade them give security to take care of^them, until his majesty should determine as to the restitution, which they recommended him to make. The commissioners also 'devised several matters of utility for the peace, good government and safety of the colony, which ihey recommended his majesty to adopt. Sir William Berkeley returned in the fleet to England, leaving Sir Herbert Jeffries, who had been sent over with the commissioners, as governor — Upon his arrival he found that his cruel conduct in Virginia was looked upon with horror by most of his former friends, and the council and was not sustained by the king, subservient loyally to whom had been the source and'sprino- of "his high-handed measures. The old knight, thus finding himself execrated in Virginia, and despised in England, soon .languished and died under the load of infomy, with which he had crushed the fair fame of his earlier years. Thus ended the life of Sir William Berkeley, a go- vernor whose early character historians have delighted to honor, and ♦ Jusiilk-ation of Bcrkcloy, in Burke, vol. II. p. -263. tprc^sly, quoted in Burke, vol. 11. p. •208. 77 610 HlSTOfiY OF VIRGINIA whose subsequent conduct lliey have sought to ex(;usc: but of whom we can find nothing better upon record, than the negative merit of not opposing the legislature in its schemes of government, in the early part of his reign; but whose latter years are disgraced by cowardly imbccillity, and stained with crane. Before we take leave of the transaction which has been termed in com- plaisance to the royal governor, Bacon's Rebellion, it may not be amiss to cast a hurried glance at the laws passed by the Legislature which met under his influence; which must go far with posterity in determining whether the name of rebels or patriots would be most consistent with the character of their acts. They strike first at the most important and pres- sing subject, and the one which had been most neglected, — the Indian war. They provide efficient means for conducting it, and for regulating the army. The next act prescribed regulations for Indian trading, the abuse of which was thought to have been very mischievous. They next pray his majesty's governor and council that tlie lands which had been set apart at the last peace exclusively for the Indians, and which had been or might be subsequently deserted by them, might not be granted away to individu- als, but might be used for the purpose of defraying the expenses of the war. The fourth act looks very little like an encouragement of rebellion, — reciting that tumults, riots and unlawful assemblies had recently been frequent, they make it the duty of every officer, civil and military in the country, to aid in suppressing them, and the duty of all citizens to assist suorh officers under penally of punishment for refusal, and the gocernor is specially requested to assemble a force at the public charge with all possi- ble expedition, to suppress such tH.imults, and inflict condign punishment upon the oftenders; which says the act "will conduce to the great safety and peace of this country, and enable us the better to defend ourselves against the barbarous and common enemy." This single act sheds more light upon the history of the times and exhibits more plainly the history of the views of the principal actors than any or perhaps all other docu- ments ; we see in it the reason why no private persons took advantage of the unsettled state of affairs to disturb the public peace, and that there was no tumult or armed force except the regular army raised by the Assembly and put under Bacon's command, and no rebellious assembly except the miscreant crew raised by Berkeley in opposition to the government estab- lished by the people. Having thus provided for safety from foes without and for peace within, the Assernbly next proceeded to the investigation of abuses by civil officers. Under this head they made several provisions for the prevention of abuses, which have been found so well devised that they have continued in use to the present day. They next provide against the long continuance of ves- tries in office ; for the election of burgesses by freemen as well as freeholders, and against false returns of burgesses. Their eishth act provides against, abuses committed by the justices in laying county levies, and requires that a number of discreet men chosen by the people, equal in number to the jus- tices appointed by the governor, should act with the justices in laying the county levy. They next empowered the county courts to select their own collectors of county levies and dues; and prohibit any member of the council from sitting on the county court bench. Passing some ai'ts of less general importance, but which were wise and useful, we come to an act of general pardon and indemnify for all crimes committed between the fir^t of HlS'l'oHY OF VIRGINIA. 611 Maii'li ami twentyiirtli of hme, passed "out of a lioarty and pious desire to put an end to all suits and fontroversies, that by occasion o( the late fatal distractions liave arisen," "ami to bury all seeds ot future discord and remembrance of anything whereby the citizens might be obnoxious to atiy pains or penalties whatsoever." Their last act ^t'prives Edward Hill and John Stith (brever of the right to hold any office of trust, judicature, or profit, because it was notoriously manifest that they had been the greatest instrunients in raising, promoting, and stirring up the late differences and misunderstanding that had arisen between the honorable governor and his majesty's good and loyal subjects. The acts of this Assembly were signed by Berkeley in all due form, but were subsequently all declared void, though many of them were re-enacted by the Legislature, which under the induence and control of Berkeley, de- clared them void. Although tlie people of Virgmia had laid down tlieir arms they were not subdued, but continued to manifest through their Legislature the same undaunted tenacity of their rights which had ever characterised them. This was exhibited towaids the king's commissioners in one of the boldest defences of privilege which the records of any nation can exhibit, and shows how strongly imbued with the spirit of freedom the people must have been when they could snuff the approach of tyranny at such a dis- tance, and put themselves on their defence against tlieir friends, lest their enemies might take advantage of their concessions. The king's commis- sioners were empower-^d to call for persons and papers, for the purpose of prosecuting more effectually their inquiries into the grievances of the colo- ny. In conformity with their powers they called upon the secretary of the Legislature for its journals, but were surprised to find that although their proceedings were popular, and their object was to investigate and re- dress grievances of which these very men complained, that they refused to allow Uiem to inspect their journals, returning for answer that it was a dangerous precedent which might be used in violation of their priviliges. At this time the governor and commissioners had complete physical power over the colony by the entire absence of anything like organized opposi- tion, and from the presence of the king's troops : and availing themselves of this power they did not hesitate to wrest the journals of the A.ssembly from the hands of its oHicer by force. Upon which the Virginia Assem- bly published a bold and manly declaration, .setting forth "that his majesty's commissioners having called for and forced from the clerk of the Assembly all the original journals of the Assembly, which power they supposed his majesty would not grant them, for that they find not the same to have been practised by any of the kings of England, and did therefore take the same to be a violation of their privileges, desiring wilhall satisfaction to be given them that they might be assured no such violation of their privileges should be offered for the future." The king was so much displeased with this declaration, that although he pardoned the members of the Legislature, he directed the record of it to be erased, and required the governor to propose a bill to the next General Assembly condemning the proceeding, and de- claring the right of his majesty and his officers to call for all the public records and journals whenever" they shall think it necessary for his royal service.* ♦Hejiiiis:, vel. II. p. 561. 1312 HISTORY OF VIROTNIA. Sir Herbert Jeffries deserves the merit due to an advantaovous treaty with the Indians, and a successful opposition to the petty intrig\ies of the loyal- ists. He died in 1678, leaving the colony in the hands of the Lieutenant governor, Sir Henry Chickerly, during whose administration magazines and forts were established at the heads of the four great rivers to overawe the savages, and a silly act passed prohibiting the importation of tobacco from Carolina and Maryland for the purpose of transhipment, wliich praC' tice if they had suffered it to continue might have proved very profitable to the colonj^, besides putting the tobacco trade more exclusively into its own hands. In the succeeding spring Sir Henry delivered the government to Lord Culpeper. The first act of his lordship was to declare full and un- qualified indemnity to all for their conduct in Bacon's rebellion, and allow- ing reparation to those who should be reproached for their conduct upon that occasion. This popular act, added to the pleasing and conciliatory manners of his lordship, so won upon the good-natured simplicity of the Assembly, that they passed an act which probably no force could have ex» torted from them. They raised the duties and made them perpetual instead of annual as before, and what was at once surrendering up the great bul- wark of that freedom for the safety of which they had been so long con- tending, they made the duties henceforth subject to his majesty's sole direc-i- tion and disposal. The king rewarded Culpeper's address in obtaining this acquisition to his power, by the addition of a thousand pounds to his salary and one hun- dred and sixty pounds per annum for his rent. The Assembly too, as if they could not do enough for a royal governor who could condescend to smile upon them, granted his excellency a regular duty proportionate to the tonnage of every vessel trading. to Virginia. Culpeper having thus obtained a considerable increase to his revenue by his trip to Virginia, proceeded to England to enjoy it, leaving the colony once more with Sij' Henry Chicherly. The discontents of the people again began to extend to a degree wliich eould scarcely be kept within bounds. The troops which had been sent over to suppress Bacon's Rebellion were still kept up. There Avere no barracks and the people positively refused to receive these idle and trou- blesome drones into their houses, although they were regularly billeted by the government. The low price of tobacco too w^as a never failing source of complaint, as well as the commercial regulations which aided in pro- ducing it. The colony had urged Culpeper to exert his influence at court to procure a cessation from planting, to which they had for some time in vain endeavored to obtain the assent of Carolina and Maryland. To these evils another was now added which struck another blow at commerce. The idea had been conceived that the colony could not pros- per without towns, and to promote their growth the planters living pri^ici- pally on the shores of the magnificent Chesapeake and the broad naviga- ble rivers of Virginia, were required to bring their produce to particular spots for the purpose of being shipped. Thus taxing the planter with unnecessary ireight and commission for the benefit of such idlers as might congregate in the towns. These acts were enforced by heavy penalties, and as they contributed very much to the benefit of the town's people, the penalty for the violation was rigorously enforced. These prosecutions drove many traders from the country, and the poor planters to whom it ^vns physically impossible to ronvey their crops to these paper-towns, wrrc HISTORY (>f VIRGINIA. G13 (Joomod to soo tliPi'r crops rolling on their hands by this injudicious legis- lation, or if they attempted to evade the law, have them wrested from them iu the shape of penalties.* These several subjects of complaint induced the people of several counties to petition the deputy governor to call an assem- bly, to endeavor to provide a remedy for the evils. At the meeting of the Assembly, there was much debate and declamation upon the condition of the country, but no measure of relief was adopted. By order of the king" however the two comjianies of infantry were paid ofi' and disbanded, which put an end to one of the subjects of difficulty. The dissolution of the As- sembly without effecting anything caused the impatience of the poor and ignorant people of several of the counties to break through all restraint, and expend their wrath in the destruction of tobacco plants, at a season of the year when it was too late to sow more seed. Sir Henry Chicherly wHh commendable moderation only took measures to stop these misguided people, without resorting to harsh punishments, but lest it should be drawn into a precedent, the Legislature not long afterwards made it treason.! In the mean time LordCulpeper arrived, and his haughty bearing to the Council and the Burgesses soon gave intimation to them that his Lordship's feelings towards the colony had undergone a change. He enlarged, in his speech to the Assembly, much upon the favor of his majesty in disbanding the troops, and spoke of permission which he had obtained to raise the value of the current coin, — he then went on to declare that the colonists did not deserve these gracious favors, but rather punishment for their recent turbu- lence ; he also expressed his majesty's great dissatisfaction at the refusal of the journals, and desired that that portion of their proceedings should be expunged. The Assembly expressed their gratitude for the concessions w-liich had been made by the king, but at the same time with admirable good sense, and a knowledge of the principles of commerce which shows that they were not acting blindfold with regard to the alterations in the price of tobacco heretofore alluded to, protested by a large majority against raising the value of the coin ; stating as a reason that the exercise of this dangerous power would be made a precedent, and specie which of course as the standard of other value should be as fixed as possible itself, would be blown about by the breath of the governor, and the people would have no cer- tainty of the value of the coin in their pockets. They stated moreover that it was the duty of the Legislature to enact all laws for the regulation of commerce, and of course to prescribe the current price of specie, and they accordingly introduced a bill for that purpose; but this bill, which was necessary, as the coins of many different countries were in circulation, was stopped short in its progress by the governor, who declared that it was trespassing upon executive prerogative, and that he would veto any bill which the legislature might pass upon the subject. He then proceeded to fix the value iiimself by proclamation, raising the (uirrent price considera- bly, Init making exception o-f his own salary and the revenue of the king. This exception was in effect nothing more or less than a new tax of the most odious and oppressive character, and the colony plainly recognised it as such, and refused to regard the exceptions, but paid the revenue as other debts according to the new standard. And the governor afraid to bring ■^Heninsr, vol. II. 561-2-3., and Burk, vol. 11. p. 230. tllening, vol. III. p. 11. CAi HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. such a case bofure any eourt of law, which he well knew would expose his contemptible meanness, and yet afraid to allow his proclamation to be openly disreirarded, which would have put an end at once to the authority of his edicts, was compelled by the dilemma to lower the value of the coin as suddenly as he had raised it. This was at once realizing all the worst anticipations of the legislature as to the arbitrary fluctuations in the standard of value, besides being highly unjust and oppressive to such persons as had made payment of debts according to the new standard, and such as had given credit during the time of the alteration. The governors had by some means been stifTered to e.xercise the power of dissolving the Assemblies, and this having now grown into a usage was a favorite method of silencing their clamors, and they having rashly made the provision for the revenue perpetual and put the control of that subject into the king's hands, were bound hand and foot, and could not control executive usurpation by slopping the wheels of government. The governor now made use of this danger- ous power and dissolved the Assembly. The governor thus left without a watch or control over his actions proceeded to a vigorous exercise of ex- ecutiv^e powers. The unfortunate plant-cutters who had merely been im- prisoned, and such of them dismissed from time to time as would give assurance of penitence, and promise a peaceable demeanor, were now pro- ceeded against with the utmost rigor for what the king was pleased to call their treasonable conduct. But the noblest victim for tyrannical persecu- tion was Robert Beverly, the former clerk of the Assembly, Avho had re- fused to give up its papers without authority from "his masters, the house of Burgesses." For some reason it seems that an inspection of journals Avas demanded by the council again in 1682, and Beverley again refusing to deliver them was thrown into prison, in a king's ship, the Duke of York, then lying in the river, his persecutors being afraid to trust him to the keeping of the jails among his countrymen. Whilst he was in prison a committee of the council was appointed to seize the papers, which he fore- seeing this event had secreted. The pretence for this imprisonment were the most frivolous that can Well be imagined; he is accused of fomenting discord and stirring up the late partial insurrections, but the only specific act of which he was accused was setting on foot petitions for an Assem- bly.* Under these arbitrary proceedings he was detained a prisoner, de- nied the writ of habeas corpus, and hurried about from prison to prison until the governor at last thought proper, after two years searching for charges, to commence a regular prosecution. The accusation consisted of three heads : — 1st. That he had broken open public letters, directed to the Secretary's office, with the writs enclosed for calling an Assembly, in April 1682, and took upon him the exercise of that part of the government, which belongs to the Secretary's office and was contrary to his ; — 2nd. That he had made up the journal, and inserted his majesty's letter therein (which was first communicated to the house of Buigesses at their prorogation) after their prorogation; — 3d. That he had refused to deliver copies of the journal of the house of Burgesses in 1682, to the lieutenant governor and council, saying, "that he might not do it without leave of his masters." This was all which could be charged against this faithful officer, after so *Henin- vol. ITT. p. 5«, HISTuliV OF VlliGLMA. 013 loiijr ail iiiiprisoiiiiient, ami so long a prcpanilion for the prostriilion. But of course tliey will not bear scrutiny, beiun: only a flimsy vtil thrown over their dosigiis, rather indicating a wish to hide the naked deforniity of the prosecution, than actually concealing it. Before this notable prosecution was ended Lord C'ulpeper forfeited his commission, and was superceded by Lord Howard, who took the oaths of office on the 2tith of February 1G34. His first measure was to cnW an as- sembly which as a popular act, induced the colony to iiope some degree of mildness in his administration ; but these hopes were soon dissipated. He pursued the unfortunate plant-cutters with renovated vigor, and such of them as had been excepted in a proclamation of general pardon, were now executed and their estates after paying officer's fees, appropriated to the go- vernor's own use. The assembly met and refused to proceed with business for the want of a clerk, as their former clerk was in prison, and they refused to elect another. In this situation of affairs the matter seems to have been compromised, the governor no doubt despairing of his conviction upon the absurd charges made, and Beverley and his friends willing to end his long imprisonment and sufferings, by asking pardon, at the same time not giving up the pa- pers or the principles for which he suffered. Be this as it may Beverley threw himself upon the mercy of the court, declining to employ counsel or make any defence, and was pardoned.* Probably these long continued sufferings, with other persecutions afterwards endured, injured the constitu- tion of Beverley, for we find that he died prior to April 1687. His noble conduct induced king James the then reigning monarch, to deprive the Burgesses of the election of their own clerk, ordering the governor to elect him, and requiring the assembly to make the clerk so elected, the usual al- lowance for his services. The accession of James H. was proclaimed with the usual demonstrations 17- u 1 - iro- of respect in the colonv, and complimentary assurances of loyalty on the one side and gracious regard on the other were exchanged between his subjects and the assembly. But nothing was done to secure the freedom of the colony, and Lord Iloward took advan- tage of the succeeding recess of the assembly, to enlarge the fees and per- cpiisites of his office, and to impose new ones without tlie advice or authori- ty of the assembly. This body which met in November, immediately took into consideration these arbitrary exactions, and passed spirited resolutions in reprobation of them, and made provision for the defence of the citizens from similar encroachments in future. To these, acts the governor applied his negative, without assigning any reason Lord Howard not satisfied with thus stopping the legislation of the colony, proceeded in eflect to acts of executive legislation, by issuing a proclamation, in obedience he said to the king's instructions, repealing several acts of the legislature, which were themselves repeals of former acts, and declaring the acts repealed by that body to be revived, and in full force as before the passage of the repealing acts. This proclamation the assembly protested against as illegal and un- warrantable, as utterly subversive of the government, annihilating the right of the popular branch, and bringing all to bow in humble submission to the Hcnin?, v. HI. p. .318 f ll>iil p. 550. me lilSTOkY OF VIRGINiii fnercy of the prerogative. The spirited conduct of the Burgesses, coald r)>t 20 irsr "°' ^*^ endured by the gevernor and he prorogued them. ' ■ The governor had sent to James an account of the conduct of this assembly. This representation produced in reply from James, a furious, quarrelsome order, calling their conduct mutinous, and attributing it to their "unquiet dispositions and sinister intentions to protract the time of their sitting to the great oppression of his subjects, from whom they re- ceived wages;" concluding by an order for the prosecution of their clerk Beverley, to whom he ascribes all of these evils. In the same year several persons were imprisoned and punished for treasonable expressions. The council was now as servile as the governor could wish, and he proceeded without interruption ia his system of arbitra- ry innovation upon the established usuages of the colony, and the liberties of its citizens. The province of New York belonged to the king as proprietor as well TVT iA iro~ ^^ sovereign; and in order to strengthen this his own es- Nov. 10, 168/. , . 1 ° ' J f 11 .1, .V I • . • » • tate, he sent orders lor all the other colonies to assist m building forts, and sapplyhig garrisons for its western frontier, alledging that these measures were equally necessary for the protection of all; in con- formity to these orders a nnessage was received from governor Dungan, re- quiring the quota of Virginia, but the legislature refused to appropriate a man or a farthing for purposes from which they were to derive no benefit but rather an injury, as the protection of the north-western frontier would drive the Indians further south, where they might commit their depreda- tions upon the unprotected citizens with more impunity. Whilst the colony was contending against their governor, a revolution (r^o ^^^ England had dethroned the sovereign, and placed William and Mary upon the throne. This change whilst it placed the council which had made rnany loyal professions to James, in an awkward position, was an event producing analloyed joy to the people of Virginia, as they could now hope for justice to be done to their oppressive governor. Soon after this occurrence the war broke out between the allied powers and Lewis XIV. of France, and the colony was ordered to place itself in the best posture of defence. The complaints of the Virginia legislature against their governor at length were taken up by the privy council, and although the charges against Howard were not tried, yet redress against his usurpation was granted, at the same time that the principles upon which they contended that their rights had been violated, were denied to be correct. Howard pleading ill- health was not deprived of his commission for not returning to the colony, but as it Avas necessary that there should be a governor upon the eve of a war. Sir Francis Nicholson was sent over. His conduct was mild and con- ciliatory, and consequently popular; among other highly beneficial acts passed under his government, was one for the establishment of a college which was very liberally endowed. He was succeeded by Sir Edmund Andros as governor-in-chief, who is n . T^nL iff\n represented to have been actuated in his administration by Sept. %0, 1692. jj ,ji-uir .u I. r ^ a sound judgment and a liberal policy; to have been exact, diligent and methodical in the management of business; of a conciliatory deportment and great generosity.* Sir Francis Nicholson was again made ■'Burk, vol. II. p. 21G. HISTORY UF VIRGINIA. 617 g-overnoi-in-cljief, in November 1698. He was an ambitious man, who had served in the capacity o( a governor, and deputj^ governor in several of the colonics, and taken great pains to become popular, and to make himself well acquainted with the situation of all the colonies, — their wants, — their trade, and their capabilities, with a view to unite them if possible under one government, over which he hoped to obtain the appointment of governor general. The pressure of war with the combined foice of the French and Indians, which seemed now about to fall upon the colonies, and rendered some union necessary for the purpose of defence, seemed highly favorable to his design. The French at an early day conceived a correct idea of the importance of the British colonies in America. The Count De Gallier, governor of Montreal, during his residence in Canada, after a long experience derived from observations on the spot, had formed the bold project of separating in two the English colonics by the capture of New York. I'he success of this scheme would manifestly have destroyed that concert so necessary to har- mony and eflicicncy of co-operation, and left the othei colonies liable to be cut oir in detail, and would effectually establish the safety of Canada by enabling the French to keep in check the powerful .savage confederation, composed of the Five Nations which had lately by a furious irruption laid waste the country even to the gates of Montreal and Gluebe-. This plan of Sent 160'^ Callier's was adopted by the French government. A fleet was ^ ■ ' "■ sent to the bay of New York, with orders to retain possession of it, until December, when if no further orders were received, it was to sail for Port Royal, land its munition and stores and return to France. The land force were to have marched from Gluebec by the route of the Sorel river and Lake Champlain. This expedition was defeated by a destructive inroad of the Five Nations, which carried death and desolation over the whole country, even to the very gates of the capital. This unforeseen oc- currence rendered it necessary to retain the v/hole force at home in mea- sures ol self-defence, and saved New York, without her having to strike a blow in her own behalf The British government daily beco'ming'lt^re sensible of the importance of the North American colonies, and seeing the danger to which they were exposed by the plan of De Callier, set on foot a plan of general defence in the year 1695, adjusting the quotas of each colony to the ratio of its popu- lation, and forwarding the scale to the diiTerent governors, to recomnien3 for the adoption of the respective colonial assemblies. Several oi the colo- nies rejected this scheme, because several of those wh'rli were thought most exposed Avishcd to employ it as their own interest dictated. Among the re- fractory was Virginia, which could not be prevailed upon by all the art and ingenuity of the governor, aided by his great enthusiasm in this his favor- ite plan, — to vote a cent to the enterprize, — to his inconceivable chagrin and mortification. Nicholson finding his own efibrts utterly unavailing, laid the matter before, the king, and urged the propriety of forcing Virginia to see her true interests upon this occasion. William in reply recomrnend- ed a new consideration of the matter by the General Acsembly, alledging upon the authority of Nicholson's report, " that New York was the barrier of Virginia against the Indians and the French of Canada; and as such it was but justice she should defend it." The assembly deemed iibut due respect to his majesty to take the subject again into consideration, but found no rea- son to change their former opinion, declaring "that neither thefor^s th^n in 78 618 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. being, nor any others that might be built in the province of New York, could in the least avail in the defence or security of Virginia; for that either the French or the northern Indians, might invade the colony, and not come within a hundred miles of such fort." The failure of this great subject irritated the governor beyond expression; and excited in his mmd the most inordinate antipathy to the assembly. He charged the conduct of the assembly to a spirit of rebellion, and inveighed against what he called its parsimony in the most unmeasured terms, offering to pay the quota of Virginia out of his own pocket, and boasting afterwards that he had done it, but at the same time, taking the obligation of the gen- tleman to whom he gave the bills, that no use should be made of them un- til the Queen should remit money to pay them. This affectation of gener- osity was designed to gain popularity with the other colonies. The history of Virginia from this period to the breaking out of the war with France, presents a remarkable dearth of interesting or striking inci- dent, all of which could be related would be a list of the governors, a detail of petty domestic affairs, a gradual extension and improvement of the colony, and a developement of the designs of France ; designs which were seen by some more penetrating spirits in the colonies, and measures recommended to defeat them, but which received no effectual check until the war broke out in 1754. We have now traced the progress of Virginia as far as it is possible to go with her affairs as an isolated province, cut offfrom all the world, and only struggling for existence at first with the savages, and afterwards for freedom with the mother country. She now becomes of importance in the political world, she emerges from obscurity and becomes a prize to be contended for by two of the richest and most powerful nations upon earth. She herself begms to' feel her strength, and dares to wrestle with the civilized nations of the world. She becomes one of a confederacy of colonies for the purpose of resisting the attacks of a foreign enemy, and finally to resist successfully the power of the mother country itself, and then a leading member of a con- federacy of independent nations. Our presumption and the necessity of the case have led us to attempt much more than will be forgiven, but cannot al- lure our feeble wing to essay a flight so daring as would be necessary to survey the broad field which now expands before u§. We leave it ricfr, tempting and beautiful as it is, to be painted by some master whose skill will enable him to exhibit the grandeiir and symmetry ot the whole, and yet present upon the same canvass a detail of each separate beauty. For ourselves, we cannot be so barbarous as to disfigure so magnificent a sub- ject by daubing it over with the same wretched colors, which we have laid on the preceding piece, in such extreme haste that we fear it will be difficult to distinguish the characters or design. For the rest our readers must be content with a very brief and general outline of the progress of affairs pre- sented in the following: — Sketch, of Virginia, )i,isl.ory from the hcgmning of the French wo.r to the beginning of the Revolution. After the accidental failure of De Callier's design upon New York, the HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. Gi9 French governors in possession of Canada and Louisiana, endeavored to strengthen themselves by uniting as far as possible their respective provin- ces. With this view, acting in concert they made no direct attacks, but con- tinued to extend their forts and strengthen their power by alliances with the wild Indian tribes located between them; thus at once endeavoring'to connect their possessions, — to monopolize the Itulian trade; and to limit the British seWlewents. These designs of France produced a mission from the governor of Vir- ginia to the commander of a fort, erected on the Ohio, in jthe year 1751. The Gonjmissioaer sept was George Washington, then 19 years old. The answer of the coramandant was evasive. The Virginians prepared for war and the French commenced an attack on the American trades and forts. An expedition was soon sent against the French, the command of which devolved upon Washington after the death of Col. Fry. Washington at first gained a trividA success against a detachment under Monsieur Jumon- ville, who wqis killed, and was proceeding to the attack of fort Duquesne, the main object of his enterprize, when he learned that the French, consid- erably fevjnforced were advancing; this induced him to retreat to Fort Ne- cessity, a small stockade work which he had erected at the Great Meadows; in this work he sustained tJie incessant fire of the French for a day, when the French asked gt parley and Washington surrendered the place upon highly honorable ternis, being allowed to pass with his troops and baggage into the settled parts of Virginiij. Great Britain began to see the necessity of aiding the colonies in their manly efforts to repel the enemy from their borders, and she sent an army under General Braddock, to protect the colonies and drive the French from the Ohio. Braddock met a convention of war from the several colonies at Annapolis on the 14th of April 1755, composed of the governors of New England, Maryland, Pennsylvania and Virginia, at which convention con- cert of military operations was agreed upon. The legislature of Virginia made liberal appropriations, Washington accompanied the expedition as a volunteer aid to Braddock. ^ ., The fate of this unfortunate expedition is too well known, Braddock va- lued too highly his own military skill, and the discipline of the British troops, he knew nothing of the character of his enemy, and so little did he esteem the provincials, (in his situation the best troops of his army,) that he left them all behind at fort Cumberland, — the Little and the Greaf Mea- dows, — and with General Dunbar, — except three companies of Virginians. Braddock advanced with too much confidence, and kept iip in a savage wilderness all the "pomp and circumstance of war" which his military education had taught him were indispensable in Europe; he advanced un- molested until he had crossed the Monongahela, and arrived within a few miles effort Duquesne, when he fell into an ambuscade of French and In- dians; his troops were thrown into confusion, and after sustaining the mur- derous fire of an enemy concealed from their view for several hours, and having most of their officers killed, and their General mortally wounded, retreated in confusion: their rear was protected by the friendly Indians and few provincials left. The army ft.-ll back upon Col. Dunbar,'Avho was next in command; and who marched off to Philadelphia, leaving two companies of provincials with the sick and wounded at Fort Cumberland. Braddock's defeat was of course followed by barbarous and distressing cruelties of the Indians to the frontier settlers •, th^se were resisted by Wash 6a0 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. ington as well as he was able with the small force under his command ; but no regular expedition was undertaken against the enemy until the year 1758, when General Grant was disgracefully defeated before the walls of fort Duquesne, by the same rigid adherence to European tactics which had defeated Braddock. After the defeat of Grant the scattered and terrified troops were again collected, and the fort taken by Washington in the third year of the war, who repaired and garrisoned it, and named it Pittsburgh, in honor of the minister, who then presided over the councils of Great Britain. The treaty of Fontainbleau in November, 1762, between Great Britain, France, Spain and Portugal at length put a period to the war. Questions touching the power of the British Parliament to interfere with the concerns of the colonies had arisen more than once before the war, and during its continuance the delicate question arose of the proportions which the several colonies should pay lor the common defence; the British ministry proposed that deputies -should meet and determine the amount necessary, and draw on the British treasury which in turn should be reim- bursed by an ecjual tax on all the colonies to be laid by Parliament; but the colonies were afraid to let the lion put his paw in their pockets even to to take back his own, and this being no time to raise difficulties the colo- nial legislatures were left to their own discretion in voting supplies, which they did with a liberality so disproportioned to their ability as to excite the praise and in some instances to induce a reimbursement on the part of the mother country. Virginia had always resisted any interference on the part of Parliament, especially in the navigation acts, and asserted as early as J 624 that she only had the undoubted right "to lay taxes and impositions, and none other," and afterwards refused to let any member of the council of governor Berke- ley, in the height of his popularity, to assist them in determining the amount of the public levy. Again in 1676 even stronger language was used and acquiesced in by the king.to whom it was immediately addressed. The slight taxes imposed' mr the regulation of commerce and the sup- port of a post-office were borne by the colonies without a murmur, being considered only a fair compensation for a benefit received. In March, 1764, the ministers declared it "expedient to raise a revenue on stamps in America to be paid into the king's exchequer," the discussion of this was postponed until the next year in Parliament, but commenced immediately in America, and the proposition Avas met by every form of respectful petition and indignant remonstrance ; which were however equally unavailing, and the stamp act passed in 1765. The passage of this act excited universal and indignaut hostility through- out the colonies, which was displayed in the forms of mourning and the cessation of business; the courts refused to sanction the act by sitting, and the bar by using the stamps. In the succeeding Virginia legislature Patrick Henry introduced and earned among others the following resolution: — "Resolved, that the General Assembly of this colony, together with his majesty, or substitute, have in their representative capacity, the only ex- clusive right and power to lay taxes and impositions upon the inhabitants of this colony; and that every attempt to vest such power in nnj person or persons whatsoever, other than the General Assembly aforesaid, is ille-^ gal, unconstitutional and unjust, and has a manifest tendency to destrov British as well as American freedom." HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. C21 After the passage of Henry's resolutions the governor dissolved the As- sembly, but the people re-elected the friends and excluded the opposer of the resolutions. The spirited conduct of Virginia fired the ardour of the other colonies, they passed similar resolutions, and a general congress was proposed. The deputies of nine states met in New York on the first of October; they draftfd a Declaration of Rights, a petition to the King, the Commons, anxl the Lords, The stamp act was repealed, and Virginia sent an address of thanks to the king and Parliament. The joy of the colonies was short-lived. British ministers imagine4 that they could cheat the colonies out of their opposition to taxation withr out representation, by laying an import duty instead of a direct tax, and accordingly a duty was laid upon glass, tea, paper and painter's colors ; but this was equally against the spirit of the British constitution, and met with a warmer and more indignant resistance on the part of the colonies, who now began to believe they had little to hope from the justice of Parliament. The Legislature of Virginia passed very spirited resolutions, which it ordered to be sent only to the king: upon the passage of which the gover- nor dissolved it ; and the members immediately met and entered unani- mously into a non-importation agreement. The British ministers perceived their error and determined to pause u) their violence, to effect this object the governors were directed to inform the colonies that his majesty's ministers did not intend to raise a revenue in America and the duties objected to should be speedily repealed. These assurances made to Virginia by Lord Botetourt, a governor whom they highly respected, served with his own good conduct for a time to allay her suspicions of the ministry, but the course they pursued towards Massar chusctts was more than sufficient to re-kindle her jealousy. She passed a protest declaring that partial remedies could not heal the present disorders, and renewed their non-importation agreeiiient. In 1771 Botetourt died, and Virginia erected a statue to his memory, which still stands in the towrj of Williamsburg. The delay of Lord Dunmore in New York for some months after his appointment to the gubernatorial chair of Virginia, excited the prejudices of the colony, which his sending a man of some milhary distmction as a. clerk, and raising a salary and fees for him out of the colon}', were by nq means calculated to dissipate. The first legislature that met compelled the governor to dispense with the emoluments of his secretary Capt. Foy ; and the next after thanking him for his activity in apprehending some counterfeiters of the colony paper, strongly reprove him for dispensing with the usual forms and ceremonies with which the law has guarded the liberty of the citizen. The same legislature having provided for the sound- ness and security of the currency, the punishment of the guilty, and re- quired the governor to respect the law; turned their eyes to their sister colonies, and appointed a committee of correspondence to inquire into the various violations of their constitutional rights by the British ministry. Whilst Virginia was employed in animating her sister states to resis- tance, her governor was employed in the ignoble occupation of fomenting jealousies and feuds betwet-n the province, which it should have been his duty to protect from such a calamity, and Pennsylvania, by raising difficult questions of boundary and exciting the mhabitants of the disputed territory to forswear allegiance to the latter province: hoping ihu.s by affording a 622 HISTORY OF VIRGINIA. more ininaediately exciting question to draw off the attention of these t\yo important provinces from the encroachments of Great Britain. This scheme as contemptible as it was iniquitous wholly failed, through tKe good sense and magnanimity of the Virginia council. Lord North full of his feeble and futile schemes o( cheating the eobnie? out of their rights, took off the obnoxious duties v/ith the exception of three pence pei^ pound on tea, and with the ridiculous idea that he might fix ihe principle upon the colonies by a precedent, which should strip it ot all that was odioue, offered a draw-back equal to the import duty. This induced the importation of tea iato Boston harbor, which being thrown .overboard by some of the citizens, called down upon their city all the rigor ,of the celebrated Boston port bill. A draught of this bill reached the Virginia "legislature whilst in session, an animated protest, and a dissolution of the Assembly by the governor of course followed. On the following day the merftbers convened in the Ra- leigh tavern, and in arj able and manly paper expressed to their constitu- ents and their government those sentiments and opinions which they had not been allowed to express in a legislative torm. This meeting recom- mended a cessation of trade with the East India company, a congress of deputies from all of the colonies, "declaring their opinion that an attack upon one of the colonies was an attack upon all British America," and a ^<•.onvention of the people of Virginia. The sentiments of the people accorded with those of their late delegates,— they elected members who met in convention at Williamsburg on the first of August_1774. This convention went into a detailed view of their rights and grievances, dis- cussed measures of redress for the laUer, and declared their determina- .iion never to relinquish the former; they appointed deputies to attend a general congress, and they insinicted them how to proceed. The congress met in Philadelphia on the 4th September, 1774. Whilst Virginia was engaged in her efforts for the general good she was nat virjthout her peculiar troubles at home. The Indians had been for •some time waging a horrid war upon the frontiers, when the indignation £i( the people at length compelled the reluctant governor to take up arms and march to suppress the very savages he was thought to have encouraged and excited to hostility by his intrigues. Lord Dunmore marched the army in two divisions, the one under Col. Andrew Lewis he sent to the junction of the Great Kanawha with the Ohio, whilst he himself marched to a higher point on the latter river, with the pretended purpose of destroying the Indian towns and joining Lewis at Point Pleasan-t; but it was believed with the real* object of sending the whole Indian force to annihilate Lewis' detachment, and thereby weaken •the power and break down the spirit of Virginia. If such was his object he was signally defeated through the gallantry of the detachment, which met and defeated the superior numbers of the enemy at Point Pleasant, after an exceeding hard fought day and the loss of nearly all its officers. The day after the victorv an express arrived from Dunmore with orders for the detachment to join him at a distance of 80 miles, through an ene- my's country, without any conceivable object but the destruction of the ♦ See Memoir of Indian wars, &c. by the late Col. Stuart of Greenbrier presented to the Virginia Historical and Philosophical Society by C. A. Stuart, of Augusta, for a i-irciBs; corroburaliiyii of these suspic-ions. HISTORY OF V1RC41NIA. 623 corps. As these orders were given without a knowledge of the victory, Col. Lewis was proceeding to the destruction of the Shawanese villages, when he was informed that the governor had made peace. The state of exasperation on the part of the colonies and the stubborn determination of the ministry made it manifest that there must soon be some overt act of hostility: this act was first committed in Virginia by its governor, who removed the gunpowder belonging to the colony from the magazine in Williamsburg to his Majesty's ship Magdalen, on the night of the 19th of April, 1775. This act threw the whole colony into a blaze, the people of Williamsburg demanded immediate restitution, and their demands were politely evaded. The citizens of Fredericksburg offered assistance to the town of Williamsburg, which was deemed in danger from the governor, and Patrick Henry marched at the head of a company of Hanover volunteers and forced the king's treasurer to make just compen- sation for the powder. The governor called a council which advised him to issue a proclamation calhng the people to their duty, which he accord- ingly did, but with an effect so little beneficial to himself, that feeling no longer safe he sent for marines to protect him in his palace, and Captain Montague threatened to fire upon York if the detachment was interrupted. This threat excited in a still greater degree the animosity of the people, whose open and bitter denunciations so alarmed the governor as to make him again have recourse to his council, which advised recourse to an as- sembly to appease and alleviate the excited wrath of the citizens. The meeting of this assembly at once proclaimed that all confidence between the governor and people was gone, many met in arms, they fear^'d the solemn sanctity of their character would not be respected, and they depended for protection upon their individual prowess. It was a humilia- ting and exciting spectacle for the people. The governor was alarmed and fled by night to a British ship, and refused upon invitation of the Assembly to return to his palace, or to sign bills presented to him, of the utmost importance to the colony, and refused to perform this branch of his duty unless the assembly would come and hold their meetings under the guns of his ship. In this emergency the governor was declared to have abdicated, and the president of the council appointed to act in his place, and as it appeared that on his retreat he had liberated the Indian hostages without having ratified the treaty, commissioners were appointed to ratify in behalf of the colony. His Lordship after the termination of intercourse between himself and the Assembly, sailed down the river, attempting to enlist citizens against their country, and slaves against their masters. He never again resumed his power. From that moment to the present day the people of Virginia have governed themselves. GENERAL INDEX OF PLACES AND SUBJECTS. ARRANGED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER. Abbeville, Abingdon, Aborigines of the Dis- trict of Columbia. Abstract of scj^ool com missioners reports, ACCOMAC AccoMAC county, Agriculture, I^LBEMARLE COUnty, Albemarle Sound, Aldie, Alleghany Mountain, Alexandria City, D. C. Alleghany county, Allen's Cave, Amelia county, Amelia C Amendments to the Fed. } Con. proposed by Va. ) Amherst county, Amherst Amissville, Amsterdam Annalostan or IVIason's Island, D C. Anthony's Creek, Appalachian system, Appomattox river, Aquia, Arnoldston, Arnold's Old Place, Ararat, Archville, Augusta county, Augusta Springs, Austinville, 79 P. O. P o. C. H. P. O. H C. H. P. O. P. O. P. O. O. V. o. o. P.O. P. o. p. o. 233 464 476 111 ib. 99 112 36 210 30 477 308 448 126 127 525 128 129 158 328 494^ 352 31 36 285 \SQ 171 260 405 309 313 457 Bacon Castle, Back Creek Vallei^ Baileysbutgf, Balrcrny Falls, Ballardsville, Ballsvilte, Banister River, Barboursville, Barboursville, Banks, Barnes' Mills, Batesville, Bath county, Bath, or Berkley springs, Bath Iron Works, Battletown or Berrysville Barksdale, Bays, harbors, rivers, } p. 0. FO. p. o p. o. p. o. p. o. p. V. p. V. o. o. o. o. o. p. o. swamps, Beaverdam, Bedford county, Beeler's Station, Bell Haven, Bell Isle, Bellona Arsenal, Bellona, Belleville. Belle Valley, Bennett's Store, Bentleysville, Berger's Store, Berkley county, jBerhngton Mills, Bethany, I Bethlehem Xi Roads ; Beverly, 'Bichley's Mills, S 286 338 286 425 387 264 37 254 333 104 390 113 319 402 425 338 184 36 P. o. 151 129 p. 0. 405 p. 0. Hi P. o. 229 152 p. 0. 195 p. o. 465 p. o. 425 p. o. 185 p. 0. lb. p. o. 260 325 p. 0. ib. p. o. 330 p. 0. 279 p. V 423 p 0. 439 GENERAL INDEX. Big Creek, P. O. 387 Burning Spring, 378 Big Sandjr River, 37 Burtons viUe, P. P. 254 Big Spring, P. O. 348 Burk's Garden, P. P. 461 Birch River, P. 0. 403 Burksville, P. P. 268 Billsburg, p. o. 423 C Blacksburg, p. o. 401 Cabell county. 332 Blacksvi'le, p. 0. 390 Cabin Point, P. P. 286 • Blacks & Whites, p. o. 252 Cackley's Store, P. P. 418 ' Black Walnut, p. o. 185 Calahan's P. P. 308 Blackwell's Mills, p. o. 172 Calland's, P. P. 260 Black AValer River, 37 Calloway's Mills, P. P. 177 Bloomsburg, p. 0. 185 Calvin's Tavern, P. P. 158 Bloomfield, p. o. 2U Campbell county, 136 Blovi^ing Cave or Pan- ) 432 Campbell C. H. 137 ther's Gap, ^ Capeville, P. P. 251 Blue Mountain, 31 Carlton's Store, P.P. 201 Blue Stone, p. p. 461 Caroline county, 142 Blue Ridge, 32 Ca.rter's Store, P. P. 268 Blue Sulphur Springs, 352 Carters ville, P. V. 161 Boon's Mills, p. 0. 177 Ca Ira, P. P. 160 Booth's Ferry, p. 0. 423 Cavesville, P. P. 255 Botetourt Springs, p. o. 328 Cedar Creek, P. P. 450 Botetourt county, 327 Cedar Grove, P. P. 425 Boswellville, p. 0. 221 Centreton, P. P. 185 Bowling Green, p. V. 142 Centreville^ P. P. 168 Bowers, p. 0. 279 Centreville, 462 Bowman's Mills, p. 0. 433 Chalk Level, P. P. 261 BoYDTON, p. V. 233 Chambless' Store, P. P. 131 Bradleysburg, p. o. 221 Chancellorsville, P. P. 282 Brandonville, p. 0. 420 Chapman's Mills, P. P. 348 Brandywine, 204 Charlottesville, P.T. 113 Brentsville, p. V. 273 Charles City county, 144 ; Bruington, p. 0. 201 Charles City C. H ib. Bridgeport, p. 0. 362 Charlotte county, 145 Brock's Gap, p. 0. 433 Charlestown, P. V. 367 Brooke county, 330 Cheat River, 38 Brooklyn, p. a 185 Chesapeal 150 Mitchell's, P 0. 182 Charlotte C H. S Modesttown, P. V. 112 Marysville, P. V. 134 Monongahela river, 46 Mason's or Analostan } 494 Monticello, 115 Island, ^ Montague, P. 0. 167 Mason county, 388 Monroe county, 392 Massanutten, 415 Montpelicr, P. 0. 187 Matchapiengo river, 45 Mont vi lie. P. o. 213 Mathews county, 225 Monroeton, — -P. 0. 261 Mathews, C. H. 224 Monongahela county. 389 Mathewsville, P. O. 419 Montgomery county, 400 Mattaponi river, 45 MOORFIELDS, P. V. 361 Mayfield, P. V. 196 Morgan county. 402 Maysville or } 134 Moreman's river. P. 0. 115 Buckingham C.H. ^ Morganville, P. 0. 252 McGaheysville, P. 0. 433 Morris' Hill, P. o. 309 McRaevilIe, P. 0. 173 Morrisville, P. V. 173 McFarland's P. 0. 223 Moore's Ordinary, P. 0. 269 McWhorter's Mills, P. o. 386 MORGANTOWN, P. V. 391 Meadsville, P. o. 185 Mountains, 27 Mechanicsville, P. o. 221 Alleghany, 30 Meadow Dale, P. 0. 354 Bhie, 31 Meherrin Grove, P. o. 228 Blue Ridge, 32 Meherrin river, 45 Mount Alto, P. o. 117 Mecklenburg county. 229 Mount Israel, P. 0. ib. Meigsville, P. V. 424 Mount Vernon, 169 M-emoirs of Indian Wars , 350 Mount Laurel, P. 0. 185 Merritnan's Shop, P. o. 269 Mount Gilead, P. o. 213 Mersey's, P. o. 131 Mount Horeb, P. o. 241 Middlebourn, P. V. 462 Mount Airy, P. o. 262 Middletown or > Polsley's Mills, ^ P. o. 391 Mount Meridian, Mount Sidney, P. P. 0. V. 317 318 Middletown, P. V. 339 Mountain Cove, P. 0. 336 Middlebrook, P. V. 316 Mount Lineus, P. o. 390 Middlesex county, 235 Mountain Cove, P. 0. 403 Middleburg, P. V. 212 Mount Crawford, P 0. 433 Midway, P. 0. 159 Mount Hope, P. 0. 450 Middleway or Smith- ) P V. 372 Mount Jackson, P 0. ib. field, S Murrell's Shop, P. 0. 241 632 GENERAL INDEX. N Nansernond liver, Nansemond County, Narrative of Mrs. Scolt, Natural Bridge, Natural Tunnel : See > Stock creek, ^ Navy Yard, Washinq-to Negro Foot, Election } Precinct, i, Nelson C'ountv, New Glasgow, New York, New Canton, New Store, New London, New Baltimore, New Found Mills, New To'.vn, Newark, New-market or Tve ri- ) ver warehouse, ^ New Kent County, New Kent Newby's Cros.s Road, New Hope, New Castle, New Town, or Stevens- ) burg, ^ New river, Newbern, New-market, Nicholas County, Nicholas C. H. or ^ Summersville, ^ Ninevah, Norfolk County, Norfolk Borough, Northampton County, Northumberland Co. Northumberland ( North river mills. North river Meeting > House, ^ North-west river Bridge, North End, Nottoway river, Nottoway Count}', Nottoway Noland's Ferry, Nuttsville, o 47 Oak Grove, P. 0. 292 23;^ Oak Grove, P. O. 223 437 Oakland, P. o. 403 42? Oakville, p. V. 135 P, 0. 44^ Oak Hill, p. o. 173 [Oatland Mills, p. 0. 214 )n, 50.- Occoquan, p. V. 274 . ^.^ (Jccoquan river, 47 '■' (Jfiice Tavern, p. 0. 127 23'.!, Ohio county. 404 P. V. 12ti,Ohio river, " 47 P. V. 117 iOid Church, p. 0. 187 P. V. 135 Old Point Comfort, p. 0. 164 p. 0. ib Onancock creek, p. 0. 112 p. V. 141 Orange county, 253 p. V. 173 Orange C. H. 255 p. 0. 187 Orange Spring, p. o. ib. p. 0. 201 •Orleans, p. o. 173 p. 0. 222 iOrsborn Ford, p. 0. 442 p. 0. 24 1 ' Otter Bridge, Otter Peaks, p. o. 132 ib. 242 Overall's, p. o. 415 C. H. 243 Oxford, p. 0. 143 P. o. 27G P p. V. 318 Paddy Town, p. V. 359 p. y. 329 l^AGE county. 408 p. V. 339 Pain's Cross Roads, Painsville, p. 0. p. V. 206 128 P.O. 393 Palmers's Springs, 234 p. V. 401 Palatine Hill, p. 0. 392 p. V. 450 Palmyra, p. V. 176 403 Pamunkey river, 49 ib Panther's Gap, p. 0. 432 Paris, p. V. 173 p. 0. 340 Partlow, p. o. 283 243 Parham's Store, p. o. 287 p. T. 247 Parisburg, p. V. 348 249 Parkersburg, p. V. 465 C. H. 251 252 Pattonsburg and Buc- hannan, I p. V. 329 p. 0. 359 Patrick county. 256 p. 0. ib. Patrick, p. 0. 201 Paytonsburg, p. o. 262 p. o. 248 Peaks of Otter, 132 p. 0. 229 Pedlar's mills. p. o. 129 47 Pendleton, p. 0. 442 252 Pendleton county, 415 C. H. ib. Penn's, P.O. 260 p. o. 214 Penitentiary system } 501 p. o. 206 Dis. Columbia, ( GEiNEUAL INDEX 633 O. v. PeiiiteDt.iary sysleni ) of Virginia, ) Peninsula Chesapeake, Pen nsbo rough, Pembroke Springs, Petersburcj, Perterstown, Philmont, Physic Spring, Pig river, Pine Grove, Pipnig Tree, Pittsylvania County, Pleasant Hill, Pleasant Valley, Pocotalico, Pocotalico liver, Pocahontas coiuiiy, Poindexter's store, Point Plkasant, Political and Moral I condition, S Poplar Run, Poplar Mount, Port Republic, Population of the Dis- ) trict of Columbia. ^ of Alexan- } dria. D. C, ^ of George- } town, D. C. 5 » of Wash- } ington, D. C. j " of Eastern i and Western Vir- > ginia. ) Port Royal, Portsmouth, Potomac river, Pottiesville, Powhatan county. Powel's, Primary Schools. Preston county, Prince Edward county. Prince Edward, C. H Princess Ann county, Princess Ann, C. H Prince George county. Prince George, C. H Prince William county. Principal Towns,. 80 466 P. 0. 340 p. T. 162 p 0. 393 p. V. 214 p. o. 135 50 p. 0. 463 p. o. 205 260 p. o. 454 p. o. 171 P. 0. 381 50 417 P. V. p. T. P. O. F O. o- 1 Principal rivers, '''I Prospect Hill, 39 Prospect, Pryor's Vale, Public Buildings, D. C. I'ungoteague, Purcell's Store, Prunty Town, R Racoon Ford, Raines' Tavern, Randolph county. Randolph Macon Col- ^ lege, S Rapid Ann Meeting Hon Rapid Ann river, Rappahannock river, Rappahannock Academy, 222i Rappahannock coimty, 388 1 Ratification of Federal ) ^,. Constitution, S 661 255 434 476 479 404 499 Rebecca Furnace, Rector Town, Red Hill, Red House, ^ Red Sulphur Springs, , Red Sulphur Seminary, Reed's, Reedy Spring, Religion, Religious and Moral As sociations of Alexan- dria, D. C. 23 P. 0. 171 p. o. 269 P. o. 129 499 p. o. 112 p. (). 215 p. V. 364 p. o. 159 p. 0. 161 422 234 se. 225 52 ib. p. 0. 143 276 523 P. o. 329 P. V. 173 142 P. 0. 151 P o. 393 396 P o. 366 P. o. 142 76 478 Republican Grove, P. O. 185 66 Revenue, 103 Rexeville, P. O. 159 143 RichardsviHe. P. O. ib. 248 RICHMOND crry, 188 50 Richmond county. 277 222 Richmond, c. H. ib. 262 Right of Suffrage, 71 182 Richieville, P. O. 164 77 Ripley, P. V. 366 420 Rivanna river, 52 265 River Bank, P 0. 255 269 Roanoke Bridge, P. 0. 151 271 Roanoke river, 53 ib. Robertson's Store, P. 0. 262 269 Rock Creek, 52 270 Rocky Mount, 178 271 Rock Mills, P. o. 159 23 RocKBDiDGE county, 424 G34 GENERAL INDEX Rockingham county, ROMNEV, Rose Mi]b, Rough Creek Church, Rose Hill, Ruckmanville, Rutnford Academj', Russell county, " s Saint Tammanv's, Saint James's Church Salem, Salem, Salem, Salt Sulphur Springs, Saltville, Sand lid oe's, Sandv Mount, Sandj^ river, Sandy river church, Sappoiiy Creek, Sannderson\s, Shulti^'s Range, Scottsburg, Scenery and Natural ) Curiosititrii. ) Scottsville, SCOTTSVILI.E, ScoTT county. Section First, rsaturnl ^ and Political, S Sf.'cond, Natu f ral and Political, S 'i'hiid, iXafuial j and Political, \ Fourth, Naru '^ ral and Political, », Siege ot York a Gloucester, Seven Mile Ford, Sevveirs, Sewell Mountain, Shackelford, Shady Grove, Shai^ion Hill, Sheetz's Mill. Sherrard's Store, Sheppardstown, Shenandoah river, Shenandoah cuUh Shi^nston, Short Puaup, nd ^ S P. V. P. o. p. o. p. o. p. o. p. o. o, o. V. V. o. 0. o. o. o. p. o. p. o p. o p. o. p. o. !* V p. A P. o P o P o P o p. o p. o. F o. P o. P V P V. P u 4 321 Situation, Boundaries, ) 360 and Extent of Va. j 129 Sistersville, 151 Skidmore's, 384 Slate Mills, 323 Smith's Creek. 205 Smithtield, 434 Smithsville, Smith Store, 23.5 Smith field, 132 SsiYTH county, 1 /'4lSuickersville, 3oO)Snicker's Ferry, 364|SoiloftljeDis/of Col 396 Somerville, 454|Somnierton, 129;,?outh Quay, 183|SouthHill," 54{South Landing, or ^ 2691 Brownsville. ^ ir»4!So.rTHAMPTON countv, 182|Sp:u-ta, 466|Spanish Grove, I^dJSpottsylvania county, -jrjSpOTTSVLVAMA, ''jSpoltedville, 1 17 Spring Farm, 2 6 5 1 S p r i n g C roe k' , 4 to'Springiield, . ,^ ■"'piing (-Tarden, Siiiisaidsville, . .Siaiiord Springs, 17 ibi ■ » r A V V K D c u i ! ! y . iS J' A FIORD. I'ArXTO.S". ,>t;'\vn<\ ill'', :.-,H'\ enslurg. jSiociv' Creek. jriiuncy Point MjIIs. 4oDjStoue Wall Mills, 3ii6jSroney Point, 354lstoney Creek Ware- ^ ;tJ ■i'J-l 201 178 182 3G0 ih. 373 54 4 1^ 364 195 house, Stoney Man, Stoney Creek, or s ock, Stras.sburg, Sturgeonville, Sublett's Tavern, Sugar Tree, SCFFOLK, Surry county. \ ny P. 0. 463 P, 0. 424 p. 0. 276 p. 0. 434 392 p. 0. 265 p. 0. 262 F. V 197 45a p. V. 215 P. 0. 340 471 P. V. 173 P. V. 238 P. 239 P. 0. 235 P. V. 334 278 P. 0, J 44 P. 0. 235^ 279 C. H. 284 P. 0. 285 P. o. 348 P. 0. • 354 P. V. 360. P 0. 262 P 255. P o, 286. 284 c. H 285 p V. 318 p 0. 201 p V 159 442 p o. 161 p o. 135 p 0. 117 p. o. 287 415 p 452. p. 0. 450 p. V. 133 p. o. 265 p 0. 262 p V 238' 286^ GENERAL INDEX. 635 SURRV, Sussex count)', Sussex, Suttonsville, Sweet Springs, System Appalachian, Table of Penitentiary ) convicts, ) Tanner's Store, Tan yard, Tappahannock, ■Taylor's Store, Taylorsville, Taylorsville, Tazewell county, Teages' Valley, . Templeton, Tennessee river, Thompson's X Roads, Thompson's Store, Thompsonville, Thornburg, Thortitons Gap, Thoroughfare, Thorn Hill, Tiber or Goose Creek, ffodd's Store, Traylorsville, Travellers' Repose, Triadelphia. Tjout Run, Turner's Store, Twyman's Store. Tye river, Tye River Mills, Tyler coiuuy. V Union Halt, Union, Union, Union Mills, Unted Statrs Arsenal. University of Virginia. Upperville, Urbanna, Urquhart's Store, V Vadensbu rg. Variety Mills, Veilleboro', Verdon. C H 286\Verdiersville, P. 0. 256 ib. ^ V^a. House of Delegates, 469 C. H. 287 " Senate, 470 P. V 404 " Election Laws, 515 P.O 397 31 W Walkerton, P. 201 Walker's Church, P.O. 269 86 Walnut Branch, P.O. 174 P 0. 235 Walnut Grove, P. o. 381 P. 252 Warm Springs, P V. 323 P. V 167 Warminster, p. 0. 241 P. (_). 178 Warren's Store, p. o. 185 P. 0. 187 Warrenton, p. V. 174 P. V. 260 Warren, p. V. 126 460 Warren Ferry, p. 0. 135 P. 0. 381 Warwick county. 288 p. 0. 270 Warwick C. H. ib. 54 Washington, P V 276 p. 222 WASHINGTON City I 496 p. o. 187 Washington co. D. C 509 p. 0. 159 Washington Co. Va. 463 p. V. 284 Water Fowl of Potoma(: 482 p. 0. 159 Watkins' Store, ' p. 0. 262 p. V, 275 Waterford, p. y. p. 0. 255 Watkinsville, p, 6! 183 p. 0, 132 WattsboiV, p. 0. 223 p. 0. 284 Waylandsburg, P.O. 159 P.O 196 Waynsboro', F, V, 319 p. 419 Waugh's Ferrv P 129 P, 0. 40.? [ Weaver's Mills. P 175 P 362 i Wellsburg, P V 332 P 0. 144 i Western Ford, P o. 424 p. 0. 284 j West Liberty, P. 405 56 j Westmoreland c'tv- 288 P o ■li 1 i Westmoreland C H 292 -lf,v Western "S'irginia — In- r 297 troduction. s p. o. r,^ West Union, P 0. 405 P. V. 215 j Wharton's Mills, p. o 132 P V 400 i Wheatley, P V J75 p. 176 j Wheeler's Spring, p. o 151 506 j Wheeling City, p. T. 406 p. 0. 117 i White Dav, p o. 392 p. V 215 1 White Hail. p. V 340 P T. 236 i White Chimneys, P 144 P n . 279 ' While Plains. P 0. 133 (White Oak Grove, p. 0. 132 p. 0. 153 I White House. p. 0. 235 p. 241 ! White Sulphur Springs . p. 0. 354 P 1 14 [White Post, p. 0. 340 P 187 1 Whittles' MilLs. p. o. 233 GENERAL INDEX Wicomico Church, P. O. Wigwam, Wilderness, WlLLIAMSBlTRG, William's Store, Wilsonville, Wilmington, Winchester, Winn's Tavern, Wonders of Cave Hill or Ruffner's Gave, Wood Grove, WoodlawH; Wood county, Woodstock, P. A^. 252 128 284 198 262 324 176 340 176 409 216 187 465 152 Woodville, P. V. 277 Woodpecker's Level, P. O. 178 Wright's Mills, P. O. 366 Wyatt's Ferry, P. O. 424 Wyer's Cavel 311 Wyliesburg, p. Q. 151 Wythe county, 455 Y Yanceyville, P. O. 222 Yancey's Mills, P.O. 126 Yellow Branch, P. O. 142 York county, 292 York Town, P. V. 293 York river, 56 Youghioghany nver. 57 FINIS.