^^ .J if 1/ :>i'<- Asm' ■Saif- Si '^i A N D !! ?j « -t siiitc^ .;«• ■■?'■ 1-f '■'•■', S'ft''"^i .,'"-1 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. OUR \ New Cook Book AND Household Receipts. CAREFULLY SELECTED AND INDEXED. 1^^ o • StitlcU S. ANNIE FROST. oo\. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. PHILADELPHIA : THE PRESBYTERIAN JOURNAL COMPANY, No. 15 North Seventh Street. 1883. .\" <^'''' h Copyright by Ferguson Bros. & Co., 1883. FbRGUSON BROS. Sl CO., PRINTERS AND ELECTROTYPERS, PHILADELPHIA. PREFACE. In offering to the public the present vol- ume of valuable receipts, we feel that we are supplying a long-felt and urgent want. Al- though the market is over-stocked with so- called Cook Books, yet none of them contain the receipts here presented, nor do they con- tain those that will supply their places in a satisfactory manner. It has been in answer to frequent urgent inquiries from those who have tested these receipts as to where to find certain directions, that this book has been most carefully com- piled and published. It is almost needless to remind all house- keepers, that the best way to make a husband happy and contented is to feed him well. Nothing is of more importance in a household 2 PREFACE. than good cooking ; and when so much com- fort and happiness can be gained at such a small expense, we wonder that more attention is not paid by housekeepers to this all-impor- tant subject. No trouble has been spared in the endeavor to render it complete and useful, by the addi- tion of a complete alphabetical index, that will aid those in search of any subject treated, to turn at once to the page wanted, without hunting through the whole book. TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER. FAOB I.- — Soups 17 II.- —Fish 35 III. —Sauces and Pickles .... 47 IV. —Meats 79 V. —Vegetables and Salads 145 VI.- —Puddings and Pastry 188 VII.- —Creams and Desserts 245 VIII. -Preserves and Jellies 273 IX.- —Butter, Cheese, and Eggs , 296 X. —Bread, Biscuit, Cakes, and Yeast . 309 XI. —Beverages ...... 879 XII. —Invalid Cookery .... 406 XIII. —Miscellaneous 414 XIV.- —Weights and Measures . . . , 429 Alphabetical Index .... 481 SOUPS. PAGE How to make soups ... 17 Stocks for soups .... 18 Good stock for ordinary pur- poses 19 White stock 19 Economical stock ... 20 Rich, strong stock ... 20 Plain beef soup .... 21 Beef soup 21 Mutton soup 22 Mutton broth 22 Nursery soup ... Economical veal soup , Imitation of mock turtle soup . . . Veal gravy soup White soup . . Calf's-head soup Vermicelli soup Salt meat 9oup Chicken broth . Brown chicken souP Partridge soup FAGR 23 23 23 24 24 25 25 26 26 26 27 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Rabbit soup . , Carrot soup Vegetable soup Clear gravy soup Gumbo . . , Okra or gumbo soup Southern gumbo soup Soup for the million Lobster soup . . . Now England chowder Oyster soup . . . Clam soup .... Bisque of lobster . . Coloring for soups Roast veal and chicken soup To bake a large fish virhole . 35 Rock fish 35 Stuffed fish 35 To fry trout 36 Sturgeon 36 Fried codfish and halibut . 36 Fried eels 37 Potted salmon .... 37 To pickle fish 37 To pickle herring ... 38 Salt fish :^8 Salt fish with parsnips . . 39 Picked up codfish ... 39 Codfish balls 40 Cod sounds ..... 40 Fish cakes 4U Kedjeree 41 Lobster patties . . .41 Lobster rissoles .... 42 To fry oysters .... 42 Pickled oysters .... 42 Oyster stew 43 German receipt for oyster powder 43 Crumbed oysters .... 43 Scalloped oysters ... 44 Oyster forcemeat .... 44 Oyster patties and batter . 45 Oyster omelette .... 45 Oyster sauce 45 Clam fritter^ 45 Boiled crabs 45 Terrapins 46 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Sauces .... Fish sauces . . Mushroom catsup Tomato catsup Tomato marmalade Belsize tomato sauce Tomato vinegar Lemon pickle . Chutney . . Browning . . Mushroom powder Fish sauce . . Tomato sauce . Mushroom sauce Bread sauce Sauce for fowls Sauce for boiled poultry Savory sauce for a roast goose Giblet sauce . . . Sauce for wild duck Venison ravigote sauce Green mint sauce Sauce Robert . Celery sauce Horseradish sauce Potato sauce . Rice sauce . . , Wine sauce Madeira sauce Pudding sauce, No. 1 Pudding sauce. No. 2 Lemon sauce . . . Orange sauce Sweet egg sauce . . Sweet pudding sauce Pickles To pickle string beans To }iickle red cabbage Pickled nasturtiums To pickle cabbage a good color To pickle mushrooms Smiill onion pickle . Spiced onions . Pickled onions . . To ])ickle beet-root . Carolina chow-chow Pickle chow-chow Chow-chow ., . . ■ 47 48 49 60 60 60 51 61 62 63 63 64 64 64 65 65 65 56 56 66 66 67 67 67 68 68 68 69 69 69 59 59 69 60 60 6(t 61 62 6.i 63 63 63 64 64 64 65 M M TABLE OP CONTENTS. Old Virginia chow-chow India pickle . . . Yellow pickle . . . Pickled red cabbage Artichokes, pickled . Gherkins .... To make lemon pickle Tomato catsup, No. 1 Tomato catsup. No. 2 Tomato soy . . . Ripe cucumber pickle Green cucumber pickle Pickled eggs, No. 1 . Pickled eggs, No. 2 , Piccalillie .... Pickled walnuts. No. 1 Pickled walnuts, No. 2 Sweet peach pickle . Sweet pickle . . . Sweet tomato pickle Green tomato pickle Tomatoes . . Spiced tomatoes Mixed pickle . Cold catsup Pepper catsup Stewed beef 79 Rump of beef ..... 79 Spanish steak 79 Beef stewed with onions . 80 Brisket of beef stuffed •. . 80 A la mode beef .... 80 Bfe-ef cutlets 81 Fillet of beef with mush- rooms 81 Fillet of beef 82 English beef pie ... . 82 Beefsteak pie 83 Beefsteak pudding ... 83 Beefsteak smothered with onions 83 S3 84 Si 84 85 85 85 Minced beef Beef balls Mock venison of corned beef Hash balls of corned beef . ITorkshire pudding with roast beef Corned beef, boiled . . . Corned beef hash * . . Pickling beef , . Potted ox tongue Tongue toast . . Tongue .... Spiced tripe . . Potted beef . . Bubble and squeak Beef cakes, No. 1 Beef cakes. No. 2 Beef croquettes . To roll loin of mutton Panned mutton Mutton cutlets Mutton cutlets a la bene Shoulder of mutton . . Mutton prepared like venison Saddle of muttoH a la Portu- guese Cold mutton . . . Minced mutton . . Baked minced mutton Browned minced mutton To roast lamb . . Fore quarter of lamb Leg of lamb . . Ribs of lamb . Garnish and vegetables for roast lamb .... To stew a breast of lamb To boil a neck or breast of lamb Lamb chops .... Lamb cutlets and spinach Loiri, neck, and breast of lamb Broiled lamb steak . . Leg of lamb to boil . . Leg of lamb to roast Boned quarter of lamb . Fricassee of lamb . . Savory lamb pie . . . Stewed breast of lamb with peas or cucumbers Stewed leg of lamb . Lamb sweetbreads . . Larded lamb .... Chops with cucumbers . To dress kidneys . . Fried sheep kidneys Mutton kidneys, broiled Kidney omelette . . • PAOI 86 86 87 87 87 8S 88 89 89 89 90 90 90 92 92 93 94 97 79 98 98 98 99 99 99 99 100 100 101 101 101 102 102 102 102 103 103 104 104 105 10£ 105 106 106 TABLE OP CONTENTS, Kidney 5, la brochette . . 107 Roast veal 107 Spiced veal 107 Curry of veal 108 Fricassee of veal .... 108 Veal cutlets vfith sweet herbs 108 Calf's head 109 Veal chops, breaded . . 109 Veal cutlets with ragout . 110 Fillet of veal, boiled . . 110 Breast of veal with oyster sauce 110 Shoulder of veal .... Ill Hashed calf's head . . . Ill Collared calf's head . . • 112 Tea pie of veal .... 112 Veal pot-pie 112 Veal, minced 113 Minfted veal with poached eggs 113 Minced veal 114 Fried patties 114 Veal forcemeat . . . . .115 Veal croquettes . . . . 115 Veal sausages 116 Veal rolls 116 Superior veal rolls . . . 116 Veal sweetbreads .... 116 Sweetbreads 117 Fried sweetbread . . . . 117 Veal olives 117 Boast leg of pork . . . 118 Fresh pork pot-pie . . . 119 Pork chops "119 Pork steak, broiled ... 120 Pork cutlets 120 Pork and apple fritters . 120 English raised pork pie . 121 Fresh pork pie .... 121 Scrambled pork .... 121 To cure hams 122 Baked ham 122 Ham pie ...... 122 Ham omelette 123 Ham Toast 123 Omelette of ham, tongue, or sausage 123 Sausages, No. 1 . . . . 124 Sausages, No. 2 . . . . 124 Sausagedumplings . . . 125 Saufage cakes 125 Scrapple 125 To prepare fowls for cooking 126 Fowl stewed with onions . 127 Steamed fowls . . . . . 127 Fowl cutlets 127 Choice fowl pudding . . 128 To bone fowls for fricassee . 128 To roast a fowl . . . . 123 To bake a fowl . . . . 129 To roast a turkey . . . 129 To bake a turkey . . . . 129 StuflBng for a turkey . . 130 Baked turkey 130 Giblet pie 130 To fricassee small chickens 131 To broil chicken without burning 131 Chicken pot-pie . . . 132 White fricassee . . . 132 To fry cold chicken . . 132 Chicken baked in rice • 133 Chicken puffs .... 133 To boil a goose . . . 133 To cook partridges . . 134 To roast partridges . . 134 To broil partridges . . 134 Partridge pie .... 135 To boil partridges . . . 135 To stew partridges . . 1.35 To fry partridges . . . . 136 Quails cured in oil . . 136 AVoodcock , 136 Snipes . 137 Wild ducks . 137 To keep game .... . 137 Venison steak .... . 138 . 138 Roman pie . 138 Potted fish and meats . . 139 Potted salmon .... . 141 Potted lobster .... . 141 Potted rabbit .... . 142 Potted pigeons . . . . 142 Potted birds .... . 142 To pot veal .... . 142 Botted calves' feet . . . 143 Potted veal and bacon . . 143 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Vegetables 145 To boil potatoes . . 145 TABLE OF CONTENTS. To broil potatoes Potato chips Steamed potatoes Baked potatoes Pommes de terre, k la Da noise ..... Potato surprise Mironton of potatoes Potatoes, mashed and fried Potato rolls Stewed potatoes Browned potatoes Potato fritters . New potatoes . Potato salad Potato patties . Potato sconces Potatoes in meat, puddings, and pies . . Roasted potatoes Jury pie . . Potato croquettes Potato pone Stuffed potatoes Pommes de terre en pyram Potatoes fried with batter Potatoes a la creme . . French mashed potatoes Savory potato cakes Cauliflower . . Boiled cauliflower Cauliflower omelette Cauliflower in milk Fried cauliflower Corn balls . Corn oysters Corn in cans Corn porridge Succotash Green corn dumpl Corn fritters Broiled tomatoes Tomato fritters Browned tomatoes Tomato soup Tomato toast To bake tomatoes Breakfast tomatoes Chinese rice . . . Carolina riee . . Bice and milk . . ids PAGE 146 146 146 147 147 148 148 149 161 152 152 152 153 163 153 153 154 154 154 155 165 165 156 166 156 167 167 157 169 160 160 160 161 161 161 161 162 163 163 163 164 164 164 164 166 166 166 166 166 Strina beans for winter use 166 To cook beans in a French style 167 String beans 167 Boiled beans 163 Parsnips 168 Broiled parsnips . . . . 168 Parsnip cutlet 168 Parsnip fritters, No. 1 . . 168 Parsnip fritters, No. 2 . . 169 Fricassee of parsnips . . 169 Fried plantains. or bananas 169 Vegetables and sauces . . 169 Carrots . 170 Carrot fritters 170 Parsley and butter . . . 171 Fried artichokes . . . . 171 Summer squashes . . • 171 Stewed spinnch . . . . 172 Spinach to boil . . . 172 Boiled onions .... 173 Buttered onions . . . 173 Roasted onions . . . 173 Flaked onions .... 173 Onions and caper sauce 174 Stewed celery .... 174 Fried celery 174 Essence of celery . . 174 Vegetable oyster cakes . . 175 Egg plant 175 Boiled beets .... 175 Aspa-ragus 175 Stewed asparagus . . 176 Asparagus soup . . . 177 Asparagus toast . . . . 177 Asparwgus omelette . . 177 Turnips a la poulette 177 Turnips 177 Turnip tops .... 178 To boil peas .... 178 Green peas . 178 Lettuce peas .... 178 To stew peas .... 179 Peas au Sucre . . . 179 Cabbage boiled with meat . 179 To stew cabbage . . . . 180 Cold cabbage .... . 180 Dressing for cold slaw . . 180 Red cabbage, stewed . . 180 Stewed cabbage . . . . 181 Cabbage jelly .... . 181 TABLE OF CONTENTS. for Hot slaw .... Broiled mushrooms . Stewed inusb rooms . To dry mushrooms . Preserving mushrooms winter uso . . . To stew okra . . . To fry okra . . . To dry okra for winter u Cucumber sahvd Sahid dressing without oil Salad dressing . . Italian salad dressing Salad Potato salad . . Chicken salad . . . Lobster salad . . . English salad sauce . Sweet salad s;iuce Swiss salad dressing Piquante sauce for salads Mayounaise for salad PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Puddings 188 191 192 192 193 193 193 193 194 195 19ti 196 196 PAGE 181 181 182 182 182 183 183 184 184 184 184 185 185 185 186 186 186 187 187 187 187 St. Claire pudding Ice pudding . . Half pay pudding Minute pudding . Queen pudding Gray pudding Cottage pudding . Soyer's new Christmas pud ding .... Christmas pudding Plum pudding . . Suet plum pudding Barbara's plum puddin Rich plum pudding without flour . . ... Cottage plum pudding . Unrivalled plum pudding Christmas plum pudding Apple pudding . . . Boiled apple pudding Baked ap|)le pudding . Rich sweet iipple pudding Pippin pudding . . . Apple loll Cocoanut pudding . . Fine oocoanut pudding 196 197 19b 198 199 199 2()U 2l)(l 2(10 201 201 201 Cocoanut custard pudding Cocoanut cup puddings Lemon pudding . . . Excellent lemon pudding Iced lemon pudding . Baked lemon pudding Sponge pudding . . Baked sponge pudding Clara's sponge pudding Boiled fig pudding . Fig pudding . . . Raisin pud'ling . . Boiled r:iisin pudding Plain raisin pudding Fruit raised pudding Tomato pudding . Caromel pudding Cassandra pudding Brighton pudding Golden pudding . Luncheon pudding Moulded pudding Stale loaf pudding Farmer's pudding Steamboat pudding Treacle pudding . Rich pudding . . Economical pudding Family pudding . Flour pudding Simple pudding . Suet pudding . . Boiled suet jmdding Tapioca pudding Arrowroot pudding Potato suet pudding Boiled Indian pudding Corn meal pudding . Indian meal pudd' Pound pudding Potato pudding Biscuit pudding Macaroni pudding Cake pudding . Sago pud'ling . Cruinb pudding Custard pudding Cup pudding , Cold cup pudding Green corn pudding Carrot pudding . PAOB 202 202 202 203 203 203 204 204 204 204 204 205 205 205 206 206 206 207 207 207 208 208 208 209 209 209 210 210 210 211 211 211 211 211 212 212 212 212 213 213 213 213 214 214 214 214 214 215 215 215 216 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Chocolate pudding . Rice pudding . . . Boiled batter puilding Quaking pudding Pennsylvania pudding Variety puddings Blackberry pudding Ripe gooseberry pudding Green currant pudding Orange pudding . . . Almond pudding . . . Citron pudding Supper pudding . . . Peripatetic pudding . . Fortunatus pudding . . Transparent pudding Cream pudding . . . Chocolate cream custard pudding .... Cream tapioca pudding Railway pudding Simple bread pudding Bread pudding . . Brown bread pudding Steamed bread and butter pudding Souffle pudding . . . Prince Albert pudding . German pudding . . . Syllabub pudding . . Bird's nest pudding . . Omnibus pudding . . Biddle pudding . . . Birthday pudding . . Orris pudding .... Grandmamma's pudding West Point pudding Union pudding . . . Snow pudding . . . Persian pudding . . . Various kinds of pastry Flaky and short crusts . Raised crust .... Puff-paste Superior puff-paste . . Sweet paste .... Crust for savory pies Icing pastry .... French crust for raised pies Pie crust fur meat plea F»rmer'B pie . . . PAOE 216 216 21ii 217 217 217 218 218 218 218 219 219 219 220 220 220 220 221 221 222 222 222 222 22.3 22:i 223 223 224 224 224 225 225 225 226 226 226 226 227 227 229 23(1 231 231 232- 232 232 233 233 234 Cracker pies Soda cracker pie Orange pie . Aunt Harriet's pie Washington pie German puffs . Lemon puffs . Spiced puffs Preserve puffs Apple puffs . . Egg puffs . . Lemon custard tart Lemon pie, No. 1 Lemon pie, No. 2 Custard cream pie Crenm pie . . . Cornstarch pie Fronted pie . . . Macaroni pie . Su])erior peach pies Cranberry tart Sand tart . . . Black Currant tart Cherry currant tart Raspberry cream tart Orange tart Lemon tart . . Almond tart Rhubarb tart . Greengage tart Rich mince pie Mock mince pie Miucement . Pastry sandwiches Florentines Rhubarb pie PAfll 234 234 234 235 235 235 23t5 236 236 237 237 237 237 233 238 238 238 238 239 239 239 239 240 240 240 241 241 241 241 242 242 242 242 243 244 244 CREAMS AND DESSERTS. Chocolate creams .... 245 Scotch creams 245 Caledonian iream ... 245 Orange cream 245 Snow cream 246 French cream 246 Velvet cream 246 Apple cream 247 Italian cream 247 Madeira cream .... 247 Spanish cream .... 248 Lemon cream . . . . • 248 Lemon rice 248 10 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Lemon flummery . . . . 249 Meringues . 249 Trifle . 260 Sweet soufB4 .... . 251 »3weet dish of macaroni . . 251 Lemon honeycomb . . . 251 Bibavoe .... . 252 Delicate dessert . . . . 252 German flottkreugel . . . 252 Custard and whey . . . 253 Fine floating island . . . 253 Floating island . . . . 253 French island .... . 254 floats . 254 Tapioca blanc mange . . 254 Blanc mange .... . 254 Chocolate blanc mange . . 255 Cornstarch blanc mange . 255 Peach rolls . 255 Spiced sugar for fritters . 256 Snowballs . 256 Suet dumplings with cu r- rants . 256 Oxford dumplings . . . 257 Suet dumplings . . . . 257 Apple custard .... . 257 Solid custard .... . 257 Orange custard . . . . 258 French custard . . . . 258 Milk pancakes . . . . 258 Cream pancakes . . . . 258 Orange nuts .... . 259 Compote aux confitures . 259 Washington or cream pie . 259 Custard fritters . . . . 260 Bun fritters .... . 260 Apple fritters .... . 260 Cherry fritters . . . , 261 Elegant fritters . . . . 261 Snitz and knep . . . . 261 Stewed pears .... . 262 Chocolate caromel . . . 262 Caromcls 262 Burnt sugar .... . 263 Friar's omelette . . . . 263 Angel's food .... . 263 Chocolate butter . . . . 263 Chocolate charlotte russe . 264 Charlotte russe . . . . 264 Charlotte de russe . . . 265 Jam or marmalade charlol te 265 PAttl Buttered orange juice . . 266 Cakes for dessert .... 266 Apple charlotte .... 266 Pommes au riz .... 267 Delicious dish of apples . 267 Gateau de pommes . . . 268 Apple Souffle 268 Apjile in jelly 268 Apple float 268 Apple snow 269 Floating island of apples . 269 Apple island 269 Apple cheesecakes . . . 270 Apple pique 270 Sponge cake for dessert . 270 A dish of snow .... 271 Sugar drops . . . . 271 Ice creams 271 Water ices 272 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. Directions for preserving fruits, etc 273 To preserve peaches . . . 273 Peach marmalade . . . 274 Peach jam 275 Raspberry fool .... 275 Raspberry jam .... 275 Celer3' preserve .... 275 Preserved lettuce stalks . 276 To preserve watermelon rind *76 Preserved citron .... 276 Apricot jam 277 To preserve hedge pears . 278 Pears for the tea table . . 278 Preserving pears .... 278 Blackberry jelly .... 278 Blackberries 279 Greengage jam .... 279 Greengages 280 Bottled green gooseberries 280 Gooseberry jelly .... 281 Gooseberry and raspberry jelly .' 281 Red gooseberry jam . . . 281 Green gooseberry jam . . 282 White gooseberry jam . . 282 Dried strawberries . . . 282 To preserve strawberries . 283 Strawberry jelly .... 283 Strawberry jam .... 233 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 11 PAGE Preserved pineapple . . 284 Pineapples without cooking 285 Pineapple jelly .... 285 Pineapple marmalade • . 285 Pineapple preserve . . . 285 Rhubarb jam . ... 286 Rhubarb preserve . . . 286 Plums, to preserve . . . 286 To preserve purple plums . 287 Preserved cherries . . . 287 Cherry marmalade or jam . 288 Spiced cherries .... 288 Bottling cherries .... 288 Cherry or strawberry fool . 288 Cherry jam 289 Currant jelly . . . . . 289 Black currant jelly . . . 290 Black currant jam . . . 290 To can fruit and vegetables 291 To can peaches . . . . 291 To can raspberries, etc. . 291 To can vegetables . . . 291 Brandy peaches .... 291 Quinces preserved whole . 292 Quiuce marmalade . . . 292 Quince jelly 292 Quinces for the tea table . 293 Quince and apple jelly . . 293 Apple jelly 293 Apple jam 294 Apple marmalade . . . 295 Apple preserve .... 295 Crab apple jam .... 295 BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS. Butter that threatens to turn rancid 296 Butter making .... 296 To preserve butter . . . 297 Curled butter . . * . . 297 Rancid butter, to restore . 297 Manufacture of pineapple and potato cheeses . . 298 Cheese biscuit 299 Cheesecakes 299 Buttermilk cheese . . . 300 Potted cheese 300 Cheese straws 300 Cream cheese . . . . ■ . 301 How to cook and serve eggs 302 Eggs, sour le plat . . . 302 Eggs, plain boiled Lait de poule . Egg balls . . . Eggs a I'ardennaise Eggs k I'aurore Broiled eggs . . Minced eggs . . Brown eggs Egg dumplings Rumbled eggs Omelette souffle Omelette a la creppe Egg cheesecakes Egg sandwiches . Preserving eggs Egg omelette . . Buttered eggs . Bacon omelette . Kidney omelette . Omelette aux crouton 302 303 303 303 303 304 304 304 305 306 305 306 306 306 306 307 307 307 307 308 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES, AND YEAST. Bread Rolls and bread .... Bread receipt Wheaten bread . • . Potato bread Homemade bread . . . Premium rye bread . . . Rice bread Corn bread Brown bread Light corn bread .... Cornuieal bread .... Graham loaf Graham biscuit .... Graham crackers .... Graham bread .... Italian bread Potato bread Indian corn bread . . . Scotch short bread . . . Coinraon corn bread . . . Genuine Scottish short bread Short bread . . . .' . Dinner rolls French rolls Pennsylvania rusk . . • Tea rusks Rusk 309 309 310 310 311 311 312 312 312 312 312 313 313 313 313 314 314 315 315 315 315 316 316 317 317 317 318 318 12 TABLE OP CONTENTS. Light biscuits Biscuits . . Butter biscuits Biscuit cakes Cream biscuits German cream biscuits Sour creaui biscuits Milk biscuit . . Potato biscuits Soda biscuit . . Judge's biscuit Abernethy biscuits Sally Lunn . . Superior Sally Lunn Light Sally Lunn Johnny cakes . Indiiin cakes . Short cake . . Corn cake . . 3reen corn cakes Soda cake . Rice cakes . . Muffins . . . German waffles Waffles . . . Baised waffles Crumpets . . Cornmeal muffins Buttermilk breakfast cakes Bre;ikt'ast short cakes Hominy breakfast cakes Breakfast waffles . Breakfast Johnny cake Fried breakfast cakes Breakfast puifs . . Coffee cake .... Virginia breakfast cake Bre.ikfast soda cake French breakfast rolls Breakfast Sally LunL Light breakfast rolls French lea cakes . . Tea cakes .... German tea cakes Pennsylvania tea cake Plain tea cakes . . Superior tea cakes . Simple tea cakes . . Lemon tea cakes . Hints for making and bak- ing Bweet cakes . . . PAGE 318 318 319 319 319 319 320 320 320 320 321 321 321 322 322 322 322 3li2 323 323 323 323 323 32-t 324 324 324 325 3.-5 325 326 326 326 326 327 327 327 327 328 328 328 328 328 329 329 329 329 330 330 330 Plum, pound, and bridecakes Rock cakes Love cakes Buns . . Bath buns Rich buns Ground rice buns Spanish buns . Excellent Spanish bun Children's cake Molasses drop c;ikes Molasses cup cakes Cornstarch cake . Soda cake . . . Rye drop cakes . Good plain cake . Cbildren's loaf cake Cheap cake French cake . . Thick gingerbread Soft gingerbread Ginger biscuits Gingersn;ip3 . . Gingerbread Almond peppernuts Ptppernuts . . Lemon drop cakes Superior lemon cake Lemon cake . . Lemon cheesecakes Orange cheesecakes Sweet macaroon . Bitter macaroon . Pop overs . . . Ginger sponge cake Ginger loaf cake . Ginger jumbles Connecticut loaf cake New England loaf cake Cbiy cake .... OM fashioned doughnuts Doughnuts . . Crullers .... Bordeaux cakes Christmas cake Yule tide cake .Jelly cake Rose water cake Almond jelly cake Army cake . Navy cake . . . 332 334 334 334 335 335 335 335 335 336 336 336 337 337 337 337 338 338 338 338 338 3H9 339 339 339 340 340 340 341 341 341 341 342 342 342 342 343 343 343 343 343 344 344 344 345 345 346 346 346 346 34« TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 . . .347 Fruit cake without eggs . 347 Good fruit calce . . . . 347 Soda fruit cake • . . . 347 Molasses fruit ca,ke . . . 347 Pound cake . . . . . 348 Rice pound ca;ke . . . 348 Almond cake . . . . . 348 Almond oup cake . 349 Sweet almond cake . . 349 Seed cake .... . 349 Caraway cake . . . . 350 Frosted loaf cake . 850 Maximilian cake . . . 350 Bitter almond cake . . 351 Stevens cake . . . . 351 Good boy's cake , . . 351 Cup cake .... . . 351 Traveller's cake . . . 351 Apple cake .... . 352 Pippin cake . . . . 362 Gateau de pommes . , 352 School cake . . . . 352 . 352 Black cake .... . 35o Arrowroot biscuits . . 353 Marble oitke . . . . 353 Railroad cake . . . . 354 Josephine cake . . . 354 Jenny Lind cake . . . 354 Jeflferson cake . . . . 354 Apple cheesecakes . . S54 Cocoanut cheesecakes . 355 Citron cheesecakes . . 355 Blackberry cake . . . 355 . 356 French jumbles . . . 356 Soft jumbles . . . . 35fi Jumbles . 356 Cocoanut jumbles . 356 Cookies . 357 Butter cookies . . . 357 Good cookies . . . . . 357 Ground rice cake . . . 357 Bride cake . 358 Wine biscuits . . . . 358 Rock biscuits . . . . . 358 Rough biscuits . . . . 359 Almond biscuits . . . . 359 Biscuits . 359 Sweet biaouits . . . . . 360 PAOK Lady fingers 360 German ladies' fingers . . 360 Ladies' fingers .... 300 Cake sandwiches .... 36] Cocoanut cake . . . . 361 Grated cocoanut cake . . 361 White coco.inut cake . . 362 Cocoanut loaf cake . . . 362 Chocolate cake .... 362 Chocolate drop cake . . . 363 Chocolate paste cake . . 363 Currant loaf cake . . . 363 Bachelor buttons .... 363 Princess cakes .... 363 Queen's bii^cuit .... 364 Lincoln cake 364 Boston cake 364 Gold cake 364 Silver cake 365 White cake 365 Mrs. W's. snow cake . . 365 Snow cake 365 Scotch cake ..... 366 Dutch cake 366 Derby short cake . . . 366 Queen cake 366 Medley cake 367 Congress cake 367 German sponge cake . . 367 Sponge cake 368 Sponge biscuits .... 368 Berwick sponge cake . . 369 Superior sponge cake . . 369 Fine sponge cake . . . 369 French cream cake . . . 369 Cream cake 370 Cream biscuits .... 370 Washington cake . . . 371 Washington pie cake . . 371 German cornucopia cakes . 371 Swiss cake 372 Molly's cake 372 Luncheon cake .... 372 Lady cake 372 Bun loaf 373 French cake 373 Honey cake 373 Almond custard cake . . 373 Jumbles 374 Wine cakes 371 Trafalgar oake .... 374 14 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Raisin cake 374 Mountain cake .... 375 White mountain cake . . 375 Ash cake 375 Fine icing for cakes . . . 375 Hot icing 376 Yeast 376 Potato yeast 376 Homemade yeast .... 377 Sweetened yeast .... 377 Hops and potato yeast . . 378 BEVERAQES. To make good tea . . . 379 To make good chocolate . 379 Chocolate a la francaise . 379 Cocoa shells 380 Broma 380 Coffee and its preparation . 380 Cafe au lait . . , . . 382 Caf6 noire 382 Good coffee 384 Concentrated coffee . . . 385 Fruit syrups ... .386 Currant syrup .... 388 Morello cherry syrup . . 388 Mulberry syrup .... 388 Gooseberry syrup . . . 388 Lemon syrup 388 Raspberry vinegar syrup . 389 Sour orange syrup . . . 389 Syrup of cloves .... 389 Orange syrup 390 Lemonades 390 Excellent portable lemonade 391 Mock lemonade . . . . 391 Superior lemonade a la soyer 392 Lemonade a la soyer . . 392 Orangeade a la soyer . . 392 Barley lemonade .... 393 Barley orangeade . . . 393 Another mock lemonade . 393 Plain orangeade .... 393 Orange lemonade . . . 394 Orangeade ...... 394 Fruit vinegars .... 394 Strawberry vinegar . . . 394 Raspberry vinegar . . . 396 Gooseberry vinegar . , . 396 Norwegian raspberry vinegar 397 Mixed fruit vinegars . . 397 PAOI Strawberry drink. . . . 397 Lemon water 398 Tomato wine 398 Muscadine wine .... 398 Rhubarb wine 399 Ginger wine 399 Lemon wine 399 Imperial 400 Imperial pop 400 Capilliare 400 Pleasant drink in summer 400 Decoction of sarsaparilla . 401 Soda water 401 Cooling summer beverage . 401 Ginger beer 402 Common ginger beer . . 402 Ginger pop 402 Ginger beer powders . . 403 Lemonade powders . . . 403 Eau Sucre 403 Agrag . 403 Sherbet 403 Watermelon sherbet . . . 404 Nectar 404 Lemon water ice , . . . 404 Blackberry cordial . ., . 404 Tamarinds 405 INVALID COOKERY. Beef tea 406 Liebig's soup 406 Beef tea and baked flour . 407 Flaxseed jelly for a cough 407 Sago 407 Tapioca 407 Oatmeal porridge .... 408 Milk and oatmeal gruel . 408 Panada of fine flour . . . 409 Chicken panada .... 409 Baked crumbs of bread . 409 Bread panada 410 Bouiilie of baked flour . . 410 Bouillie of boiled flour . . 410 Glycerine and yelk of egg . 411 Wine whey 41 1 Arrowroot pap with milk . 411 Port wine jelly .... 412 Orange jelly 412 Porter jelly 412 Sngo jelly 412 Gelatine 413 Jelly from gelatins ... 41S TABLE OF CONTENTS. 15 MISCELLANEOUS. PAGE A hill of fare 414 Coloiing for gravies and ragouts 414 Rich gravy 415 Meat or fish omelottee, gen- erally 415 Milk toast 415 Breakfast dish .... 416 Small egg balls to serve with calf's head 417 Good meat cake . . . . 417 Superior meat pies . . , 417 To use the meat and gristle of a soup bone .... 417 Rissoles 418 Rissoles of cold meat . . 418 Rissiibles 419 L;ird 419 Forcemeat 419 Forcemeat for veal, turkeys, fowls, r half an hour. Have ready some crackers (Philadelphia pilot bread is the best) soaked in water until they are a little softened ; throw them into the chowder five min- utes before taking it off the fire. Serve in a tureen. Oyster Soup. — To one hundred oysters take one quart of milk, half a pint of water, four spoon- fuls of flour, half a cup of butter, and one teasjjoon- ful of salt, with a very little Cayenne peppt^r . Boll and skim the liquor of the oysters. Steam the flour and butter over the teakettle until soft enough to beat to a froth ; then stir it in the liquor while boil- ing; after which add the other ingredients, and throw in the oysters, allowing them merely to scald. Clam Soup. — Separate fifty small clams from the juice, which put into a stewpan, and let sim- mer five minutes, put it on to cook and slowly add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour rubbed together, stirring it well ; after this add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a nutmeg, and one pint of cream or milk, stir all well ; let it simmer ten min- utes; chop up parsley and add the clams. One boil up is sufficient, as clams require little cooking. If large clams are used, it is necessary to chop them up. Bisque of Lobster. — A soup made with fish is always called a bisque. It is made either with SOUPS. 33 crabs or lobsters. Remove a portion from either side of the head and use the rest. To boil a lobster, put it in a fish-kettle, and cover it with cold water, cooking it on a quick fire. Two lobsters will make soup for six or eight persons, and also salad. All the under shell and small claws are pounded in a mortar to make the bisque. When it is pounded, put it in a pan and set it on the fire with broth or water. The meat is cut in small pieces to be added afterwards. The bisque is left on the fire to boil gently for half an hour. Then pour it into a sieve and press it with a masher to extract the juice. To make it thicker a small piece of parsnip can be added and mashed with the rest into a pan, so that all the essence is extracted in that way from the lobster. When you have strained it, put a little butter with it, and add as much broth as is re- quired. Put some of the meat in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over it. Coloring for Soups. — As soups often require coloring, it is well to prepare browning for that purpose. Two baked onions, well browned in the oven and then chopped fine, make an excellent coloring and flavoring. The shells of green peas dried in the oven brown, but not black, will also answer to brown soup, and will keep all winter if hung in a perfectly dry place. It will be found much better to use either of the above for coloring soup than the caramel or brown 34 SOUPS. sugar used by many cooks, as the sweet taste is apt to be perceptible. Roast Veal and Chicken Bones make a very nice soup, boiled with vegetables ; but add a hand- ful of macaroni, break it up fine, and boil the soup half an hour after it is put in. Color the soup with a little soy or ketchup. CHAPTER II. FISH. To Bake a Large Fish Whole. — Cut off the head, and split the fish down nearly to the tail; prepare a nice dressing of bread, butter, pepper and salt, moistened with a little water. Fill the fish with this dressing, and bind it together with fine cotton cord or tape, so as to confine it; the bindings may be three inches apart ; lay the fish on a grate on a bake pan or a dripping-pan, and pour round it a little water and melted butter. Baste frequently. A good sized fish will bake in an hour. Serve with the gravy of the fish, drawn butter or oyster sauce. Rock Fish. — Rock fish or bass are best boiled plain, leaving on the head and tail. Boil steadily for half an hour. Serve with drawn butter with hard boiled eggs in it, chopped fine. Stuffed Fish. — Soak some bread in water, and squeeze it out, add a small onion, chopped fine, fried with butter till nearly done ; add to the onion the bread, salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, a little broth, the yelk of one egg. Stir rapidly, cooking over a clear fire ; when done, add a little parsley, 35 36 ■ FISH. chopped fine. Cut the back-bone out of a two pound fish, put the stuffing in its place, and sew it up with a trussing needl» and twine ; put a little salt and pepper on the fish, inside and outside, a few pieces of butter under it in the pan, cover with a gill of broth, and bake in the oven. To Fry Trout. — Dry them thoroughly, and fry in hot oiled butter without scorching, or in pork fat. If the latter rub salt on the fish. Lay on the fish, before serving, lumps of sweet butter. Sturgeon.' — The meat of this tenant of the deep waters partakes very much of the properties of veal, both in flavor and appearance, and is of an insipid character unless it is treated with conrliments so as to render it commendable to the palate of the gas- tronomist. When purchased at the fishmonger's it should be cut into small fillets about one inch in thickness, and these should be covered over on both sides with a liberal supply of crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, lemon rind, and an egg to cause the above to adhere to the meat. Wrap the fillets in clean v/hite writing paper, which has been buttered on the inside, and place on a gridiron over a clear fire until they are well done. Serve them with a sauce of melted butter, caviare and catsup, with salt and pepper to taste. Fried Cod-Fish. — Take the middle or tail part of a fresh cod-fish, and cut it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season them FISH. 37 with a little salt and Cayenne pepj>er. Have ready in one dish some beaten yelk of egg, and in another some grated bread crumbs. Dip each slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them. Halibut may be fried as above. Fried Eels. — Clean and skin the eels. If large cut them into pieces, if small skewer them round and fry them whole. First dust them over with flour, then rub them with yelk of egg and sprinkle them with bread crumbs. Put them into boiling lard and fry until nicely browned. Potted Salmon. — Salmon, pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to taste, three bay leaves, a quar- ter of a pound of butter. Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a cloth (water M'ould spoil it). Cut it into square pieces, which rub with salt, let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a dish with the other in- gredients, and bake. When quite done drain them from the gravy, press into pot"? for use, and when cold pour over it clarified butter. To Pickle Fish. — Take any freshly caught fish, clean and scale them, wash and M'ipe them dry. Cut them into slices a few inches thick, put them in a jar with some salt, some allspice, and a little horse- radish. When filled cover them with good strong vinegar. Cover it well with a good cover. Let it 38 FISH. stand in your oven a few hours. Don't let the oven be too hot. This will keep six months. Put it immediately in the cellar, and in a few months they will be fit for use. No bones will be found. To Pickle Herrings, — Wash fifty herrings well, and cut off their heads, tails, and fins. Put the fish into a stewpan, with three ounces of ground allspice, one tablespoonful of coarse salt, and a little Cayenne. Lay the fish in layers, and strew the spice equally over it, with a few bay leaves and anchovies inter- spersed. Pour over the whole a pint of vinegar mixed with a little water. Tie a bladder over the stewpan and^bake in a slow oven. Skim off the oil, and with a little of the liquor boil about half a pint of claret or port wine. The fish should be baked so slowly and so thoroughly that when cooked the bones should not be perceptible. Salt Fish. — Lay the fish to soak over night in cold water with a little vinegar in it. Wash it thor- oughly, put it into a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it. Let it heat gradually, but not boil quickly, or the fish will become hard. A large fish will require to be kept boiling half an hour. Before taking the fish from the kettle remove all the scum from the top of the water. Drain well. Parsnips may be laid around the fish on the edge of the dish, and hard boiled eggs, cut in slices, between the parsnips. Parsnip and egg sauce, in sepamte dishes, should also be served with salt fish. FISH. 39 Salt Fish with Paesnips. — Salt fish must always be well soaked in plenty of cold water the whole of the night before it is required for the fol- lowing day's dinner. The salt fish must be put on to boil in plenty of cold water, without any salt, and when thoroughly do-ne should be well drained free from any water, and placed on a dish with plenty of well-boiled parsnips. Some sauce may be poured over the fish, which is to be made as follows, viz. : Mix two ounces of butter with three ounces of flour, pepper, and salt, a small glassful of vinegar, and a good half pint of water. Stir this on the fire till it boils. A few hard-boiled eggs chopped up and mixed in this sauce would render the dish more acceptable. PiCKED-up Codfish. — This is an old-fashioned dish and name, but none the less to be admired on that account, being with most persons, when prop- erly prepared, a great favorite. Pick up the fish in small particles, separating the fibres as near as pos- sible, the finer the better. Freshen by leaving it in water one hour. Pour off the water and fill up with fresh. Bring it to a scald, pour it off, and put on the fish just enough water to cover it. Add to a quart of the soaked fish a bit of butter the size of half an egg, a very little flour, and a dust of pepper. Beat up tAvo eggs, and after taking off the fish thicken it by stirring in the egg. Some let it boil after the egg is added, but if this is done the egg will be cur- 40 FISH. died. Another way is to boil eggs, chop and mix them in the gravy. Codfish Balls. — Pick up as fine as possible a teacup of nice white codfish. Freshen all night, or if wanted for any other meal than breakfast, from the morning. Scald it once, and drain off the water. Chop and work it until entirely fine. Put it in a basin with water, a bit of butter the size of an egg, and two eggs. Beat it thoroughly, and heat it until it thickens without boiling. It should, when all is mixed, be about a quart. Have some potatoes ready prepared and nicely mashed. Work the fish and potatoes thoroughly together as above, make it in flat cakes, and brown both sides. Cod Sounds (An Entree). — Boil the sounds gently, and not too much. Take them out of the water and let them remain until quite cold. Make a forcemeat out of choppedrf)ysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, spice, pepper and salt, and the yelks of two eggs. Fill the sounds and skewer them up in the shape of chickens, and lard them down each side in the same manner as though they were the breasts of fowls. Dredge them with flour, put them before the fire to bake, basting them well with butter. When they are sufficiently cooked, pour upon them some oyster sauce. They make an excel- lent entree. Fish Cake. — Carefully remove the bones and skin from any fish, previously cooked, and let it FISH. 41 soak for a short time in warm water. After taking it out, press it dry, add to it an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, and beat together in a mortar to a fine paste; season to taste. Then make up the mass into round flat cakes, sift a little flour over each one, and fry in butter or lard till they are brown. Codfish recooked in this way is an ex- cellent breakfast dish. Kedjeree. — Take some fish that has been dressed, bone it carefully, and pull it into very small bits. Add hard-boiled eggs chopped, and as much rice well boiled as you require to fill your dish. Mix all these well together, with sufficient butter or cream to moisten .them, adding a little Cayenne, mustard, and salt. Put all into a sauce- pan and stir with a fork (not a spoon) until quite hot. The fire must not be too fierce, and the dish must be served up very hot. Lobster Patties. — Make some puff paste, and spread it on very deep patty pans. Bake it empty. Having boiled well two fine lobsters, extract all the meat and mince it very small, mixing with it the coral smoothly mashed, and some yelks of hard boiled eggs, grated. Season it with a little salt, some Cayenne, some powdered mace or nutmeg, adding a little yellow lemon rind, grated. Moisten the mixture well with cream, fresh butter, or salad oil. Put it into a stewpan, add a very little water, and let it stew till it just comes to a boil. Take it 42 PISH,- off the fire, and the patties being oa^ed, remove hem from the tin pans, place them on a large dish, and fill them to the top with the mixtures. Simi- lar patties may be made of crabs. Lobster Rissoles. — Extract the meat of a boiled lobster, mince it as fine as possible, mix with it the coral, pounded smooth, and some yelks of hard-boiled eggs, pounded also. Season it witL Cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and a very littk salt. Make a batter of beaten egg, milk, and flour. To each egg allow two large tablespoonfuls of milk, and a large teaspoonful of flour. Beat the batter well, and then mix the lobster with it gradually, till it is stiff enough to make into oval balls about the size of a large plum. Fry them in the best salad oil, and serve them either warm or cold. Simi- lar rissoles may be made of raw oysters, minced fine, or of boiled clams. These should be fried in krd. To Fey Oysters. — Beat up an egg in one ves- sel and grate one or two crackers in another. Dip the oysters singly, first into the egg, then into the cracker. Fry the oysters so prepared in equal parts of butter and lard. It is also recommended to dry the oysters with a towel, beforehand. Clams may be fried in the same way. Pickled Oysters. — Lay the oysters on a siev3 to drain the liquor from them ; leave it to f ittle, then pour off the clear portion, and boil it nj well with pepper, salt, mace, and ginger to the taste then PISH. 43 wash the oysters well in several waters to remove all the slime, and give them one boil up in the liquor. Oyster Stew. — To one hundred oysters, take one quart of milk, a half pint of water, four table- spoonfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, a half cup of butter and a little Cayenne pepper. Put the liquor of the oysters on to boil. Mix butter and flour and steam it in a bowl over the teakettle till soft enough to beat to a froth, then stir it into the liquor, after which add the other ingredients. German Receipt for Oyster Powder. — Take fresh oysters, beard them, and place them in a vessel over the fire for a few moments in order to extract the juice, then put them to cool, and chop them very fine with pounded biscuit, mace, and finely-minced lemon-peel ; pound them until they become a paste; make them up into thin cakes, place them on a sheet of paper in a slow oven, and let them bake until they become quite hard, pound them directly into powder, and place the powder in a nice, dry tin box. Keep in a dry place, and when oysters are out of season you will find this powder very serviceable in impartin g the flavor of the fish to various sauces and dishes. Crumbed Oysters. — Eight square soda-crack- ers rolled fine, seven ounces of butter, one quart of oysters ; drain the oysters ; put the crackers and oysters in alternate layers; divide the butter equally, 44 FISH. putting it on the oysters at each layer, witii a dust of pepper ; be careful not to salt too much, leaving the bottom and top layer crackers. A moment before baking add a coffee cup of tiie liquor from the oysters ; bake a light brown. Scalloped Oysters. — Wash out of the liquor two quarts of oysters, pound very fine eight soft crackers, or grate a stale loaf of bread ; butter a deep dish, sprinkle in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of oysters, a little raace, pepper, and bits of butter ; another layer of crumbs, another of oysters, then seasoning as before, and so on until the dish is filled ; cover the dish over with bread-crumbs, seasoning as before ; turn over it a cup of the oyster liquor. Set it into the oven for thirty or forty minutes to brown. Oyster Forcemeat. — Open carefully a dozen fine plump natives, take off the beards, strain the liquor, and rinse the oysters in it. Grate four ounces crumb of a stale loaf into fine light crumbs, mince the oysters, but not too small, and mix them with the bread ; add one and a half ounce of good butter, broken into minute bits, the grated rind of half a small lemon, a small saltspoonful of pounded mace, some Cayenne, a little salt, and a large tea- Bpoonful of parsley; mix these ingredients well, and work them together with the unbeaten yelk of one egg, and a little oyster liquor, the remainder of which can be added to the sauce which usually accompanies this forcemeat. FISH. 45 Oyster Patties in Batter. — Make a batter with the yelk of one egg (or more, according to the quantity of oysters you intend to prepare), a little nutmeg, some beaten mace, a little flour, and a little salt; dip in the oysters, and fry them in lard to a nice light brown. If preferred, a little parsley may be shred very fine, and mixed with the batter. The batter may also be made thicker, and formed into the shape of a patty, or put into a small tin mould, the oyster being dropped in and covered over, and the whole baked as a pudding would be. Oyster Omelette. — Three eggs well beaten, a little parsley, and an onion well minced, a little pepper and salt, one dozen good oysters ; fry in butter with a little cream. The omelette must not be turned, but when done on the one side must be browned, or held close to the fire when it rises and browns ; serve hot with good gravy. Oyster Sauce. — Boil the oysters in their own liquor until they look plump, then take them out and strain the liquor; add to it wine, vinegar, and pepper to your taste, and pour it over the oysters. Clam Fritters. — Strain the clams thoroughly from •the juice, chop them fine, season with pepper and salt, and add an egg or two, with a little cream or milk ; sift in flour enough to make them stick together — and fry. To Boil Crabs. — Boil for twenty minutes, wipe and crack the claws, rub the shells with oil, and 46 FISH. dish as with lobster. To cook soft- shell crabs, re- move the claws, cut open and take away the sand- bag and spongy part ; then put some butter in a pan and fry brown on both sides. Terrapins. — Boil three terrapins till the bones can be easily removed, after which chop the meat very fine ; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one pint of tomato catsup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard, two onions, boiled and chopped fine, salt, black and red pepper to taste ; stir tlie mixture well ; scrape and clean two of the backs. CHAPTER III. SAUCES AND PICKLES Sao<'ES. — Melted butter, a sauce, is, in its simplest form, a mixture of butter, flour, salt and water; and the talent consists in bringing those ingredients together, and in the quantities employed of each. It ouffht not to be a mixture of flour and water with a little butter added to it — this is the common form — but, as its name implies, it ought to be butter and water, 'with a little flour added to it to thicken the mixture. If you like your sauce thick, put more flour ; and if thin, put less. To be well made, the sauce should be smooth and velvety in appearance, and, above all, devoid of what are called knobs. To obtain this result proceed in this way : Melt the butter in a saucepan, and then add the flour, which will amalgamate very easily with it ; salt and stir in enough of hot water, keep stirring the mixture on the fire until it thickens ttien serve. The above is the simplest form, but like all simple things, it is the foundation of an imposing array of sauces, to be eaten with fish, flesh, fowl, and vege- tables without end. 4 47 48 SAUCES AND PICKLES. 1. Beat up the yelk of an egg and the juice of a lemon, and stir in just before serving, off the fire. 2. Use milk, or milk and water, instead of water. 3. Throw in, just before serving, some chopped parsley, capers, or pickles chopped small. These additions are not incompatible with the arrange- ments Nos. 1 and 2. 4. Let the butter and flour get a good brown color, then add water, and when the sauce is made, Worcester Sauce, ketchup, pepper and other spices and condiments to taste. 5. Use a mixture of half water and half tomato sauce instead of water, and add condiments to taste, if the tomato sauce is not sufficiently flavored. N. B. — This is not to be used in dressing maca- roni, but only for cutlets, boiled fowls, with rice, various vegetables, etc. 6. Cut up some onions, a very small piece of garlic, and boil in milk, with whole pepper, mace, a clove or two, etc., tied up in a piece of muslin, and some parsley. When the mixture is well flavored, strain and use the milk instead of water to make your sauce ; egg and lemon may be added if wished. Without these last two it is not a bad substitute for onion sauce. Shad or rock fish boiled in the flavored milk, and served with the sauce over them, are not bad eating. The great rock to be avoided is excess of any one thing in flavoring the milk, chiefly in the spice line. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 49 7. For puddings and sweet dishes the sauce is made in the same way, excepting that the salt is replaced by sugar, in larger quantities, of course. This should be made with milk, or milk and water, find an egg or two used, with or without lemon, according to taste; or the egg should be beaten up with brandy or wine. Mushroom Catsup. — Get fine-grown, fresh- gathered mushrooms, break them up, and sprinkle a good handful of salt over every layer. Let them lie for all the juice to run out, stirring them up often, but put no v/ater. When the juice has run out, strain it off, and boil it well, with very little ginger, and a sufficient quantity of pepper. It is a mistake to give mushroom catsup all kinds of fla- vorings, as it is the full flavor of the mushroom which it is all-important to preserve, and in using it the cook can add the spices her dish requires. All that is necessary or good to make the catsup keep is to put salt and pepper enough. A mat- ter of yet greater importance is to use the pure juice without water, as any mixture of water spoils the flavor and the keeping, too. There is no better- sauce for fried or broiled fish than a really good mushroom catsup, and nothing else; and mixed with equal parts of soy and lemon pickle, it makes a delicious flavoring for any sauce or gravy. Make it a quartette with a fourth equal part of red wine, and " it 's no ill," as the Scot says. 60 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Tomato Catsup. — Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle them with salt, let them remain for a day or two, then boil them until the skins will separate easily ; press them through a colander or coarse sieve, leaving the skins behind. Put into the liquor a handful of shalots, a pint of Chili vinegar, a pint of wine, salt, pepper, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Boil all together until a third is wasted, bottle it, and when it is cold cork the bottles very well. Shake it before using it. Good either for sauce or for flavoring. Tomato Maemalade. — Take fine ripe toma- toes, cut them in halves, and squeeze out the juice. Put them in a preserving- pan, with a few peach- leaves, a clove of garlic, some slices of onion or shalot, and a bundle of parsley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done, pulp them through a sieve, and boil them down like other marmalade, adding salt. Put them into small jars, pepper the tops, and pour clarified butter over. Eat it with fish, etc., or stir the contents of a small pot into the gravy of stews or fricassees. Belsize Tomato Sauce. — Slice tomatoes in a jar, and sprinkle salt over every layer of slices, place the jar in a warm place by the fire, stir the contents pretty often for three days, and let it re- main untouched for twelve days. Press out the juice, and boil it with mace, pepper, allspice, gin- ger, and cloves. There should be two ounces of SAUCES AND PICKLES. 51 spice to a quart of juice, the pepper and allspice greatly predominating. At the end of three months it should be boiled up with fresh spice. Tomato Vinegar. — Quarter three dozen fine tomatoes, leave the bottoms undivided ; rub half a pound of salt over them, place them in a wide- mouthed jar in a cool oven, or by the side of the fire, for a day or two ; add a little mace, cloves, and grated nutmeg; slice in a clove of garlic, sprinkle in half a pint of mustard seed, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar ; tie a blad- der over the jar, and let it remain five or six days more by the fire, shaking it well every day. Put it by in the same jar as long as convenient, and when you wish to bottle it press out all the liquor ; let it stand several hours to clear, and then bottle the clear, and keep that which is not quite clear for present use. Tomato vinegar and tomato sauce should both be kept in store, as the sub-acid flavor is sometimes an improvement in the dishes in which it is used, whereas at other times we require the flavor of the tomato unmingled with acid. Lemon Pickle. — Grate off the rind of twenty lemons, or pare it off so thin as to cut through the little globules, grating or cutting it into a small quantity of vinegar, to be added to the lemon pickle with the vinegar. Cut the lemons in quarters, leav- ing the bottoms whole. Rub over them equally 52 Sx^UCES AND PICKLES. half a pound of bay salt, and put them into a stone jar in a cool oven, or on the hob by the fire, until the juice is dried into the peels. Then put in amongst them a blade of mace, a few cloves beaten fine, some grated nutmeg, a clove of garlic peeled and sliced, and half a pint of mustard seed bruised, and pour over all two quarts of boiling vinegar. Close the jar well, let it stand in its warm place five or six days, shaking it up every day. Tie it down tight with a bladder, and put it by for three months to take off the bitter. After this it may be bottled when convenient. Put all into a hair sieve, and squeeze out the liquor. Let the liquor stand until the next day, and bottle the fine. Let the remain- der stand two days, bottle the fine part, and repeat the same until all is bottled. A little will not hurt the color of white sauce, and it is capital for flavor- ing stews and ragouts, and also makes a very nice fish sauce. In using it for flavoring put it in before the gravy is thickened, especially if cream be used, lest the sharpness should make it curdle. Chutney. — Pare and core a quarter of a pound of sharp apples, weigh the same quantity of toma- toes, raisins, figs, brown sugar, and salt. Pound them in a mortar, and pound and mix Math them a quarter of an ounce of chilis or Cayenne pepper, the same of powdered ginger, half an ounce each of garlic and shalots. Mix all well together in a large jar, put in three pints of vinegar and one of lemon juice, and stand the jar where it will be in heat amounting SAUCES AND PICKLES. 53 to 130° Fahrenheit for a month, stirring it twice a day. If sour apples are not to be had, gooseberries will do, but not so well. The top liquor or quihi may be poured off and bottled. It is an excellent fish sauce. The thick part is the chutney, and should be put into wide-mouthed bottles. Both are excellent for flavoring sauces or gravies, or to eat as sauce. Browning. — Beat fine four ounces of refined sugar, and put it into a very clean frying-pan, with one ounce of butter. Mix them together over a clear fire, and when the sugar froths in dissolving, hold tlie pan a little off the fire, and when the sugar is of a deep brown pour in by degrees, little by little, and stirring the mixture all the time, a pint of red wine. Stir in half an ounce of allspice, six cloves, four shalots, peeled, a blade of mace, a wineglass of catsup, and the rind of a lemon. Simmer it for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, pour it into a basin to get cold, then skim it very clean, and bottle it for use. It is good for any brown gravy. Browning is often made for present use by burning a good tea- spoonful of brown sugar in a large iron spoon. Stirred into brown gravy it gives both richness and color. Another browning is made by allowing flour to bake until it is of one uniform dark-brown color. It takes many days, and must be stirred about from time to time while doing. Mushroom Powder. — Peel the thickest large 54 SAUCES AND PICKLES. buttons you can get, and just pare off the root end, but do not wash them. Place them on jDcwter dishes, so that their liquor will dry into them, and put them into a slow oven until they will powder. Beat them up in a mortar, sift the powder through a sieve with a little Cayenne pepper and pounded mace, bottle it, and keep it in a dry place. Fish Sauce. — Take half a pint of milk and cream together, two eggs well beaten, salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Put it over the fire and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken. Tomato Sauce. — Take seven pounds of ripe tomatoes. Skin them, put them in a preserving kettle, with four pounds of sugar, and boil until the sugar penetrates the tomatoes ; add one pint of vinegar, one ounce of cloves, and one ounce of ground cinnamon ; boil thirty minutes, and then seal up close in stone jars. This will keep for years. Mushroom Sauce. — Half a pint of button mushrooms, half a pint of good beef gra\y, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, thickening of butter and flour. Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks, and wiping them free from grit and dirt; the large, flat mushrooms cut into small pieces will answer for a sauce, when the buttons are not obtainable. Put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very SAUCES AND PICKLES. 55 gently for ten minutes, then add the catsup, and serve. When fresh mushrooms are not in season, the mushroom powder makes a good sauce for roast meats. Bread Sauce. — Cut some bread into slices, adding to it some pepper, an onion, a little salt and butter, and enough boiling milk to cover it. Let it simmer gently before the fire, until the whole of the milk is soaked up by the bread, then add a little thick cream, remove the onion and rub through a hair sieve. Serve very hot in a sauce tureen. Sauce for Fowls. — An excellent white sauce for fowls may be made of two ounces of butter, two small onions, one carrot, half a teacupful of flour, one pint of new milk, salt and pepper to taste. Cut up the onions and carrots very small and put them into a stewpan with the butter ; simmer them until the butter is nearly dried up ; then stir in the flour, and add the milk. Boil the whole gently until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and Cayenne, and serve. Sauce for Boiled Poultry. — Chop a stick of blanched celery very fine, in a quart of new milk ; let it boil gently in a stewpan, with a few black pepper-corns till reduced to one pint. Stir till the whole is a smooth pulp. Thicken with the yelk of a fresh egg well beaten with half a teacupfuJ of fresh cream. 56 SAUCES AND PICKLE.S. Savory Sauce for a Roast Goose. — A table- spoonful of made mustard, half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and three spoonfuls of port wine. When mixed, pour this (hot) into the body of the goose before sending it up. It wonderfully improves with sage and onions. GiBLET Sauce. — Take the livers* lights, gizzards, and hearts from fowls. Boil very tender, and chop them fine. Make a nice thin drawn-butter, and stir them in ; or boil and chop them, and use the water in which they were boiled ; season with butter, pepper and salt ; beat up the yelks of two eggs, add them, and keep the sauce stirring until it thickens. This sauce is best for roast fowls. Sauce for Wild Duck. — A tablespoonful of made mustard, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a wineglass of claret. Mix the mustard and anchovy essence thoroughly in a saucepan, add the Cayenne, then the ketchup, a few drops at a time ; the claret last ; heat over a clear fire. Slice the breast of the duck, and pour the sauce over it very hot. Venison Ravigote Sauce. — Put three pounds of venison in a vessel ; set on the fire in a pan one pint of vinegar, two bay leaves, two cloves, two leaves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme, four of parsley, and one dozen pepper-corns. Let it boiJ, and turn it over the venison. Leave il SAUCES AND PICKLES. 57 for a day, turning the venison occasionally. Then put the venison in a pan with some spices, and pour the juice and vinegar back over it, adding salt and a few pieces of butter, and bake it. If you roast the venison, put the vindgar and spices in the dripping pan, and baste with it. For the sauce take an onion chopped fine and set on the fire with one ounce of butter; when nearly done, add a dessertspoonful of flour, one gill and a half of broth, and stir. Then add the drippings from the venison, and boil gently over a slow fire. The ravigote sauce can be used with beef, mutton or pork. Keep it on the fire five minutes, add chop- ped parsley, and serve. Green Mint Sauce. — The French use this for boiled lamb. It is made by putting green mint, chopped fine, and parsley, in vinegar. Sauce Robert. — Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a frying-pan with a bit of butter, and fry them lightly ; when nicely browned, add a dessertspoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, some salt and pepper ; reduce it to a proper thickness, and when ready for table stir in two dessertspoonfuls of mustard. Celery Sauce. — Make half a pint of melted butter, of course, using only milk or cream, or both mixed. Have ready three heads of celery, the white parts well washed and cut up into small bits, and boiled for a few minutes in water, which strain 58 sAlUces and pickles. off; put the celery to the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for ten or twelve minutes. It is better to put the celery in before the melted butter boils up — as soon as it is hot will do. Thia is a very nice sauce for boiled fowl or turkey. Horseradish Sauce. — One tablespoonful of grated horseradish, one saltspoonful of mustard, a pinch of salt, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and two tablespoonfuls of white vinegar. Mix well together, adding the vinegar last, and stirring very rapidly when pouring that on the mixture. Potato Sauce. — Smoothly mash one large steamed potato when it is hot, and add a little salt, shred-lemon peel and white pepper; mix with it some dissolved butter, the beaten yelk of a new- laid egg, and pour over it enough boiling milk to render it sufficiently thin in consistency. Gravy instead of milk may be added when a white sauce is not wanted, and potato flour, instead of mashed potato used when easily procured. Any particular flavor may be imparted to this sauce according to taste, such as chopped herbs, olives or pickles. * E-iCE Sauce. — This is a delicate white sauce for eating with game or chicken, as a change from the usual bread sauce, and is a great deal used in India. Soak a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with onion, pepper, and salt. When it is quite tender rub it through a sieve into a s-tewpan, and boil it. If too thick, thin with cream or milk. SAUCES AXD PICKLES. 59 WiNi: Sauce. — One cup of butter and t'o o cups of sugar stirred to a cream ; one cup of wine added slowly. Set the bowl in a kettle of hot water three- quarters of an hour before you wish to use it. It must not be stirred or poured out of the bowl. Madeira Sauce. — Two cups of white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of butter ; beat to a cream, and add by the teaspoonful, a cup of Madeira wine. Mix well, place the bowl containing the mixture in a vessel of boiling water, and stir to a cream. Serve hot. Pudding Sauce, No. 1. — Beat to a cream one cup of butter with two cups of sugar, one cup of wine to be added slowly. Set the bowl it is in in a kettle of hot water three-quarters of an hour be- fore you wish it for use. It must not be stirred before placing on the table, or poured out of the bowl. Pudding Sauce, No. 2. — Dissolve two cups of sugar in a cup of butter, and add a wineglassful of wine; beat them well together, and flavor with nutmeg or mace to suit the taste. Lemon Sauce. — Melt two ounces of butter in a little water; put in two ounces of sugar, the juice and grated rind of half a lemon, and the pulp and juice of the other half. Boil together five minutes, and serve hot, for cold puddings. Orancje Sauce. — Rub together one ounce of flour and two ounces of butter ; put it into a sauce- 60 SAUCES AND PICKLES. pan, with the juice of four large oranges, the shred rind of half an orange, and two tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar. Stir gently over the fire until all ia well mixed, and serve. Sweet Egg Sauce. — Put the yelks of four hard boiled eggs into a mortar, with an equal weight of fresh butter and sugar ; beat it smooth, then dilute with a sufficiency of either milk or white wine. Add the grated rind of half a lemon ; boil five minutes, and serve. Sweet Pudding Sauce. — Mix with half a pint of melted butter tAvo dessertspoonfuls of pounded loaf-sugar (with or without a wineglass of sherry), make it quite hot, and pour it over and around the puddings when they are turned out into the dish. PICKLES. The general principle of pickling may be soon stated, although it is not universally applicable to all varieties. The vegetables are in the majority of cases placed in strong brine for some hours or days. This is done to extract part of the watery fluids they contain, for by a law well known to chemists, when two liquids are separated by an aninaal or vegetable membrane, an interchange takes place; but the lighter fluid is more rapidly attracted by the heavier. It follows, therefore, that if vegetables are put into strong brine, the more fluid parts are extracted, and the vegetable becomes less watery than before. SAUCES AND TICKLES. Gl Great advantage, especially in wholesale manufac- ture, is taken of this circumstance, for, instead of placing the substances in the first instance, in vinegar, which would be so weakened that it would have to be renewed at a considerable cost, the vege- tables are first pickled in strong brine, and, when the water is extracted, they are finally preserved in vinegar, and bottled. As an example of this method of proceeding we give the following : — To Pickle String Beans. — String beans make a deservedly popular pickle, but they should not be more than half grown when gathered ; have them as much of one size as possible, and let a little of the stalk remain upon each. Put them into a brine strong enough for an egg to float in ; let them stay in it for three days, stirring occasionally; place them in a preserving pan, with plenty of vine leaves both over and under them ; cover them in the brine in which they have steeped ; put some- thing over them to keep the steam from escaping, and set them jver a very slow fire until they turn green, but they should not be allowed to boil ; drain them in a sieve, and arrange them in a jar; pour upon them a pickle made by heating some of the best white wine vinegar, which you hSye flavored with mace, ginger, and pepper. If the beans are already properly greened, the pickle may be employed cold, otherwise use it hot. It is needless to say that in following out these 52 SAUCES AND PICKLES. directions the vinegar used should not be boiled in a copper, but, if possible, in an enamelled pan. Sometimes the salt is more advantageously used dry, as extracting the moisture of the plant more rapidly. The following receipt is an example of this mode of procedure: — To Pickle Red Cabbage. — Choose a medium- sized fresh red cabbage ; tear ofif the coarse outer leaves, quarter it, remove the stalk, cut the cabbage into slices of about the third of an inch in thick- ness ; place it in a bowl, strew amongst it two good handfuls of salt ; let the whole stand for twenty- four hours ; stirring it once or twice ; drain it as dry as possible ; place it loosely in wide-mouthed jars, and fill up with either the prepared vinegar given above, or use strong raw vinegar, adding pepper- corns, capsicums, pieces of ginger, or what other spice you may fancy. This in a day or two will be of a splendid crimson color, and eat deliciously ci'isp. Those cooks who prefer to boil their vine- gar and spices in an iron pot, and forthwith pour the pickle boiling hot upon the cabbage, may rea- sonably expect soon to find the latter limp, ill- flavored, and of a dismal purplish blue. The caution here given respecting the boiling the vinegar in an iron vessel is perfectly correct. For, if done, a small quantity of the metal will be dis- Bolved by the acid, and, although perfectly whole- some, alter materially the fine color which is so much esteemed in this pickle. SAUCES AND PICKLES. 63 Pickled Nasturtiums. — Very frequently nas- turtiums are merely thrown into seasoned vinegar ; they should be gathered in sunshiny weather. Al- though this method answers tolerably well, it is preferable to put the freshly pickled nasturtiums into a strong brine of salt and water, and let them remain in this till they grow somewhat soft; then cov^er them with strong vinegar, and they will keep for years. To Pickle Cabbage a Good Color. — Put a few slices of beet-root amongst it — will find it makes it a very beautiful color, besides being a nice addition to the pickles. To Pickle Mushrooms. — Rub the buttons with flannel and salt, throw them into a stewpan with a little salt over them, then sprinkle them with some pepper and a small quantity of mace. As the liquor comes out shake them well, and keep them over a gentle fire until all is dried into them again, then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them. Give it a scald, and pour the whole into bottles. Small Onion Pickle. — Small onions, not larger than marbles, must be carefully peeled and thrown into strong brine. Let them remain eight days, changing the brine every other day. Dry in a cloth, place them in bottles, add spice, and fill up with strong distilled vinegar. A teaspoonful of olive oil will prevent the onions from turning yellow. Mus- tard seed, horseradish, allspice, cloves, black pep- 5 64 SAUCES AND PICKLES. per-corns, and mace are all excellent spices for onions. Spiced Onions. — Peel large onions and lay them in a jar. Put as much cider vinegar as will cover them in a pot, with cloves, allspice, cinnamon, mace, mustard seed, horseradish. When the vinegar boils pour it over the onions. Let them stand twelve hours. Pour off the vinegar, heat to bailing point, and pour on again until the vinegar has been heated three times, when the onions will be fit for use. Pickled Onions. — Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and with the fingers tiike off the thin outside skin, then with a knife remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast a.s the onions are peeled put them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, add two teaspoonfuls of allspice and two teaspoonfuls of black pepper, taking care that each jar has its share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most simple receipt, and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They should be eaten within six or eight months after being done, as the onions are liable to become soft. To Pickle Beet-root, — This vegetable makes an excellent pickle, and from the brightness of its color has a very pretty effect in a glass pickle dish or jar. Wash the beet perfectly. Do not cut off SAUCES AND PICKLES. 65 any of the fibrous roots, as this would allow the juice to escape, and thus the coloring would be lost. Put it into sufficient water to boil it, and when the skin will come off it will be sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid upon a cloth to cooK Having rubbed off the skin cut the beet into thick slices, put it into a jar, and pour over it cold vine- gar, prepared as follows : Boil a quart of vinegar with one ounce of whole black pepper, and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let it stand until quite cold. The jar should be kept closely corked. Carolina Chow-Chow. — The evening before you wish to make your pickle take the cabbage, chop it up fine, say a water-pailful, put a layer of cabbage, sprinkle with salt, and so on until the ves- sel is full, place a plate on it to press it down, and let it stand until morning. Prepare ten large onions in the same way, spread the cabbage on a cloth, and let it remain while you are preparing your vinegar. Take one gallon of the best vinegar and swSeteu to your taste, put into a bowl some mustard, two ounces of pulverized cinnamon, two ounces of tur- meric, two ounces of white mustard seed, two ounces of celery seed, half a pint of grated horseradish, mix all well together in the vinegar, and let it come to a boil, then put in the cabbage and onions and let them boil about ten minutes. If too thick add vinegar. You can use salad oil, half a teacupful, if you like it, and other spices. 66 ■ SAUCES AND PICKLES. Pickle Chow-Chow. — A quarter of a peck of green tomatoes, a quarter of a peck of white (uiions, a quarter of a peck of pickling beans, one dozen green cucumbers, one dozen green peppers, one large head of cabbage. Season with mustard, celery seed, salt, to suit the taste. Cover the mixture with the best vinegar. Boil two hours slowly, continually stirring, and add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil while hot. Chow-Chow. — (Excellent.) — To one peck of green tomatoes add three good sized onions, six pep- pers with the seeds taken out. Chop together and boil three minutes in three quarts of vinegar. Throw this vinegar away after straining. Then to three quarts of new vinegar, when scalding hot, add two cups of sugar, one cup of mixed mustard, one table- spoonful of cloves, one of allspice, two of cinnamon, three of salt. Pour over the tomatoes hot. Old Virginia Chow-Chow. — Three pecks of ripe tomatoes, three of green tomatoes, five large heads of cabbage, one dozen large onions, one dozen ripe peppers, one dozen green peppers, half a pound of celery. Chop all very fine, cover with salt, and soak twenty-four hours. Then drain the brine off, thoroughly cover with strong vinegar, and add three pounds of sugar. Scald one hour, add one cup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of white mustard seed, one of cloves, two of allspice, two of ginger, and one of ground mustard. Cover close for one month, when it will be ready for use. SAUCES AND PICKLES. . 67 India Pickle. — Quarter of a pound of ginger, half an ounce of ground cloves, half an ounce of chil- lies, four ounces of black pepper, two of ground all- spice, four of coarse salt, two of garlic, two of escha- lots, quarter of a pound of mustard seed, and a small piece of alum, all put into two gallons of pure cider or white wine vinegar, and boiled half an hour. Mix half a pound of mustard and quarter of a pound of tannin, smoothe with a little vinegar, and add to the above pickle. Let it just come to a boil, then pour into a deep jar. Put into this pickle all vege- tables as they come in their season, being careful to have them well dried. Let them remain in the pickle three weeks, then bottle for use. This will keep perfectly good three years. Yellow Pickle. — Have firm white cabbages cut in quarters ; put into strong brine for two or three days; then scald them in clear water until you can run a straw in them ; take them out and dry them for twenty-four hours in the sun, or by the stove, as may be most convenient; tKen put them in strong cider vinegar, with powdered tur- meric sufficient to color the cabbage, and let them remain in the vinegar about ten days. White onions managed the same way ; also lemons whole. Cucumbers — white are the best — must not be scalded or dried, but only changed from the brine to the vinegar colored with the turmeric. After re- maining in the turmeric vinegar ten or twelve days, take the fruit and vegetables out of it, and put 68 . SAUCES AND PICKLES. them in a sieve or on a plank, and let all the vine- gar drain from them for two or three hours. Have the following spices, etc., prepared ready, and pack them in a jar, a layer of fruit and vegetables and a layer of spices until the jar is three parts full ; then fill up with vinegar — cider vinegar; after a day or two pour the vinegar from them, scald it, and to every gallon of vinegar add five pounds of sugar while the vinegar is boiling. Be sure to keep the pickle covered with the vinegar. For each gallon of pickle, three ounces of turmeric, two ounces of white ginger, two ounces of white pepper, quarter of an ounce of mace beaten fine, four ounces of horseradish shredded fine, four ounces of garlic, two ounces of white mustard seed, half an ounce of celery seed, whole. The pickle should have a tight cover at all times, and, during the warm weather, be frequently placed in the sun. Pickled Red Cabbage. — Cut the red cabbage In thin slices, spread it on a sieve and sprinkle with salt. Let it drain for twenty-four hours, dry it, pack it in pickle jars, fill them with cold vinegar, put in spice to taste, and tie the jars up firmly with bladder. Open the jars in a few days, and if the cabbage has shrunk, fill up with vinegar. Artichokes Pickled. — Boil the artichokes till you can pull the leaves off; take out the choke and cut away the stalk, but be careful that the knife does not touch the top ; throw them into salt and SAUCES AND PICKLES, . 69 water. When they have lain an hour, take them out and drain them ; then put them into glasses or jars, and put a little mace and sliced nutmeg be- tween ; fill them with vinegar and spring water, and cover your jars close. Gherkijts. — Steep them in strong brine for a w(H*k, then pour it off; heat it to the boiling point, and again pour it on the gherkins. In twenty-four hours drain the fruit on a sieve ; put it in wide- mouthed bottles or jars ', fill them up with strong pickling vinegar, boiling hot, bung them down at once and tie them over with bladder. When cold, dip the corks into melted bottle- wax. Spice is usually added to the bottles, or else steeped in the vinegar. To Make Lemon Pickle. — Take some lemons and grate them slightly; cut them down at one end in four places, which fill up with salt; lay them at the bottom of a jar, and strew over them horse- radish, (shred,) pepper, garlic, bruised ginger, Cay- enne, a little turmeric, or, if preferred, half a spoon- ful of curry powder, and plenty of mustard seed ; then add some more lemons again, and so on with the different ingredients until the lemons are all in the jar. Pour over some strong cold vinegar, as much afi will cover the pickle; tie the jar over with a bladder, and F,et it in a })an of water. Let it boil slowly until the lemons l>ecome tender. The pickles will he fit for use in less than a week, if required. 70 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Tomato Catsup, No. 1. — Scald ripe tomatoes, and remove the skin. Let them stand a day, covered with salt ; strain thoroughly to remove the seeds. To every two quarts of the liquor add three ounces of cloves, two of black pepper, two grated nutmegs, a little Cayenne pepper, and salt. Boil all together for half an hour, then let the mixture cool and settle ; add a pint of the best cider vine- gar ; bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a cool place. Tomato Catsup, No. 2. — Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes until |)ei*fectly soft,; squeeze them through a fine wire sieve, add half a gallon of vinegar, one pint and a half of salt, two ounces of cloves, quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of Cayenne jx'pper, three teaspoonfuls of black pepper, five heads of garlic, skinned and separated. Mix together, and boil three hours ; it should re- duce to one-half. Bottle without straining. To^f ato Sov. — To one jxx-k of green tomatoes, sliced thin, add one pint of salt; stand twenty-four hours, strain, and put on the fire v/ith twelve raw onions, an ounce of black pepper, one ounce of all- spice, quarter of a jiound of ground mustard, half a pound of wfiite nuistartl seed, and a little Cayenne pepper. Cover Avith vinegar and boil till as thick as a jam, stirring o(X'asionaIly with a wooden spoon, to prevent burning. KiPE Cucumber Pickle. — Pare them, take out SAUCES AND PICKI.ES. 71 the seeih, cut in rings an inch thick; then simmer in weak alum water an hour; take them out, drain tliem, and lay them carefully in ajar; then prepare a syrup of one gallon good vinegar, two cups sugar, one ounce cinnamon, one ounce ginger-root ; pour it hot over your pickles. This is a delightful pickle, anil will keep sealed up a long time. Green Cucumber Pickle. — Make a brine by putting one pint of rock-salt into a pail of boiling water, and pour it over the cucumbers ; cover tight to keep in the steam, and let them remain all night and part of a day ; make a second brine as above, and let them remain in it the same length of time ; then scald and skim the brine, as it will answer lor the third brine, and let them remain in it as above; then rinse and wipe them dry, and add boiling hot vinegar; throw in a lump of alum as large as a nut to every pail of pickles, and you will have a fine, hard, and green pickle. Add spices, if you like, and keep the pickles under the vinegar. A brick on the top of the cover, which keeps the pickles under, has a tendency to collect the scum which may arise. Pickled Eggs, No. 1. — ^Obtain a moderate-sized, wide-mouthed earthen jar, sufficient to hold one dozen eggs ; let the latter be boiled quite hard ; when fully done, place the same, after taking them up, into a pan of cold water. Remove the sheila from them, and deposit them carefully in the jar. 72 SAUCES AND PICKLES. Have on the fire a quart (or more, if necessary) of good white wine vinegar, into which introduce one ounce of raw ginger, two or three blades of sweet mace, one ounce of allspice, half an ounce of whole black pepper, and salt, half an ounce of mustard seed, with four cloves of garlic. When it has sim- mered for half an hour take it up, and pour the contents into the jar, taking care to observe that the eggs are wholly covered. When quite cold, stopper it down for use. It Avill be ready after a month. When cut into quarters, they serve as a garnish, and afford a nice relish to cold meat of any kind. Pickled Eggs, No. 2. — Boil two or three dozen eggs for half an hour, then, after removing the shells, lay them carefully in large-mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, allspice, a few races of ginger, and a few cloves of garlic. When cold, they are bunged down close, and in a month are fit for use. Where eggs are plentiful, the above pickle is by no means expensive, and, as an accompaniment to cold meat, it cannot be outrivalled for piquancy md gout. Piccalilli. — Take anything that can be j>ickled, su«h as onions, sliced cucumbers, cabbage, mangoes, peppers, squashes, small green tomatoes, cauliflowers, martenoes, celery, green beans, ntisturtiums, radish pods, watermelon rinds, small green cucumbers, and Chili peppers. Lay them in salt and water, with SAUCES AND PICKLES. 73 enough turmeric to turn them yellow. Let them stand twenty-four hours, stirring frequently ; then drain, and dry them and put them into the jars. To every quart of vinegar, allow a tablespoonful of mustard seed, one of turmeric, and a handful of whole black pepper, one clove of garlic. Spice to your taste with mace, ginger, cloves, red pepper, and horseradish. Boil all but the mustard seed in a bag in the vinegar. Let the vinegar stand till cold. Boil one dozen eggs quite hard, mash them in enough sweet oil to make a paste ; then stir it in the vinegar, which pour over the pickles. Put one handful of salt in every jar. They should stand three days, well tied up, when they will be fit for use. Pickled Walnuts, No. 1. — One hundred wal- nuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar allow two ounces of whole black pepper, one ounce of allspice, one ounce of bruised ginger. Procure the walnuts while young, and prick them well with a fork. Prepare a strong brine of salt and water (four pounds of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the walnuts, letting them remain nine days, and changing the brine every third day. Drain them off, put them on a dish, and place it in the sun until they become perfectly black, which will be in two or three days. Have ready dry jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them for ten minutes, with spices in the above proportion, and 74 SAUCES AND PICKLES. pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite covered with the pickle. Tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use In a month, and will keep good two or three years. Pickled AValnuts, No. 2. — Take one hundred walnuts, soft enough to allow a needle to pass through them, lay them in water, with a good hand- ful of salt, for two days, then change to fresh water and another handful of salt, for three days, then drain and lay them on some clean straw or a sieve in the sun until quite black and wrinkled ; after- wards put into a clean, dry glass bottle or jar a quar- ter of an ounce of allspice, quarter of an ounce of mace, quarter of an ounce of ginger, half a pint of mustard seed, and half an ounce of pepper-corns ; these to be mixed in layers with the walnuts until your Avalnuts are all used, then pour over them boil- ing vinegar to cover them. Ready for use in two months. Sweet Peach Pickles. — To nine pounds of firm clingstone peaches (peeled) take three pounds of brown sugar and an ounce each of cinnamon bark, cloves, mace, and allspice, and a quart of good vine- gar. Put the sugar, vinegar, and spices in a clean preserving kettle, and let it boil thoroughly. Have the peaches in a large jar, and when the vinegar, sugar, and spices have been skimmed, and while boiling, pour over the peaches. Do this for nine consecutiye days, pouring off the liquid every morn- SAUCES AND PICKLES 75 ing, and boiling again and scalding the peaches. Tie and put in a cool place. Sweet Pickle. — Select fine cantaloupe or citron melons, ripe, but firm, pare and seed them, and sh'ce or quarter them. Weigh the fruit, and to five pounds of melon allow two and a half pounds of white sugar and one quart of vinegar. The vinegar and sugar must be heated, well skimmed, and poured boiling over the fruit six times. In the last boiling of the syrup add the spices — stick cinnamon, white ginger, and a few cloves — and when the syrup boils put in the citron and let it boil for ten minutes, then put it in the jars, skim the syrup clear, and pour over it. Sweet Tomato Pickles. — Chop one peck of green tomatoes, four onions, and six green peppers. Strew over ^lem one cup of salt, and let them stand all night. Next day drain off the water from them, and add to them one cup»of sugar (or more, if liked), one cup of grated horseradish, one table- spoonful of cinnamon, one of cloves, and one of allspice. Cover with vinegar and cook till tender. Geeen Tomato Pickle. — Slice two gallons of green tomatoes, put them into a pan with a layer of salt, and then of tomatoes, with half a dozen of onions sliced, and alternately put with the toma- toes and salt, and let them remain in salt all night. The next morning rinse and drain well. Put them into a kettle with one gallon of strong cider vij»*»- 76 SAUCES AND PICKLES gar, half a gallon of brown sugar, four tablespooii- fuls of mustard, four of ground allspice, four of ground ginger, five of cinnamon, four of cloves, four of black pepper, four of celery seed, half a dozen red or green peppers, sliced fine, two teaspoon- fuls of ground mace, and four tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Let it boil three or four hours, then, if the vinegar is not as strong as it should have been, while the pickles are still warm, add a quart of cold vinegar. This pickle has been considered as good as " chow chow," and will keep for years. Tomatoes. — Always use those which are thor- oughly ripe. The small round ones are decidedly the best. Do not prick them, as most receipt books direct. Let them lie in strong brine three or four days, then put them down in layers in your jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horse- radish, then pour on the vinegar (cold), which should be first spiced as fqr peppers. Let there be a spice bag to throw into every pot. Cover them carefully, and set them by in the cellar for a full month before using. Spiced Tomatoes. — Two pounds of tomatoes, one pound of brown sugar, half a pint of good cider vinegar, one dozen cloves, and two dozen grains of allspice. Put these ingredients into a preserving Kettle, and stew them over a slow fire. When they have been in sufiiciently long to cook the tomatoes tolerably well take them up and place them on a SAUCES AND PICKLES. 77 dish to coo], but continue slowly boiling the syrup. When the tomatoes become cool put them back into the syrup and boil them until they are of a dark red color ; then take them out again, put them on a dish to cool, and continue boiling the syrup until it is as thick as molasses. When the tomatoes and syrup are both cool put it into jars and tie paper over the mouths. INIixED Pickle. — To each gallon of vinegar allow quarter pound of bruised ginger, quarter pound of mustard, quarter pound of salt, two ounces of mus- tard seed, one and a half ounce of turmeric, one ounce of ground -black pepper, quarter ounce of Cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucum- bers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsi- cums. Have a large jar, with a tightly fitting lid, in which put as much vinegar as is required, reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pep- per, and Cayenne. Mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain ; add all the ingre- dients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon, when Jt will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it. As these come into season have them gath ered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle. The cauliflov/ers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches. Put all these 78 SAUCES AND PICKLES into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when there have been added as many of" tiie vegeta- bles as could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over witii bladder. As none "of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till twelve months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar ; and its contents, it may be re^icated, must be stirred every morning. Cold Catsup. — One half peck of tomatoes, one half gallon of vinegar, half a teacup of salt, half a teacup of mustard seed, ground or broken, four pods of red pepper, cut very fine, one teacup of grated horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of ground pepper, two tablespoonfuls of celery seed. After peeling and mashing up the tomatoes the whole must be well mixed, put into bottles, and corked tightly. It is soon ready for. use. Pepper Catsup. — Fifty pods of large red pep- pers, with the seeds. Add a pint of vinegar, and boil until the pulp will mash through a sieve. Add to the pulp a second pint of vinegar, two spoonfuls of sugar, cloves, mace, spice, onions, and salt. Put all in a kettle and boil to a proper consistency. CHAPTER IV. MEATS. Stewed Beef. — A rump of ten pounds weight will require three hours' stowing. At first, it may be slowly but partly boiled, after which it is to sinnner very slowly indeed. Have a saucepan, not over large, for the meat, and, at the bottom, fix two skewers, to prevent the meat touching the pan. Pour over it one pint and. a half of cold water at the sides, two or three onions — if not very large — partly in pieces, and on the top put as many carrots as you may wish, cut into good-sized dice. Before dishing the meat, you must thicken the gravy as usual with flour and a little burnt sugar, to make the gravy (of which there should be a good deal) brown. Rump of Beef. — This is one of the most juicy of all the joints of beef, but is more frequently ste^\'ed than roasted. As it is generally too large to serve whole, cut as much from the chump end as will make a handsome roast. Manage it as the sirloin. When boned, roll it into the form of a fillet of veal, and bake. Spanish Steak. — Cut some onions veuy fine a 79 80 MEATS. and put into a frying pan witli plenty of butter, boiling hot. When fried quite tender, push to the back of the pan. Season a tender loin of beef with pe])per and salt, put it on the pan, and (,'ook till done. Put the onions over it, and pour in the pan sufficient boiling water to make a rich gravy. Let all stew five minutes, and serve. Beef Stewed with Onions. — Cut some tender beef into small pieces, and season ^vith jx^pper and salt ; slice some onions and add to it, witli water enough in the stewpan to make a gravy. Ijet it stew slowly till the beef is thoroughly cooked, then add some pieces of butter rolled in flour, enougli to make a rich gravy. Cold beef may be cooked in the same way, but the onions must then be cooked before adding them to the meat. Add more water if it dries too fast, but let it be boiling, when poured in. Brisket of Beef Stuffed. — A piece weigh- ing eight pounds requires about five or six hours to boil. Make a dressing of bread crumbs, ix!p]xjr, salt, sweet herbs, a little mace, and one onion choj)ped fine and mixed with an egg. Put the dressing between tlie fat and the lean of the beef, and sew it up tightly ; flour a cloth, pin the beef in it, as closely pressetl as possible, and l)oil five or six hours, Remove the cloth, and press the meat until it is cold. Cut in thin slices, and eat cold. Ex- cellent for sandwiches. A LA MODE Beef. — Prepare a drcssing with MEATS. 81 bread or crackers, moisten with water seasoned witli butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and, if relished, allspice ; add two eggs, and mix the whole well together. Have ready a round of beef of the proper size for the family ; cut gashes in it, and fill them with the dressing. Bind it together with skewers, and put it in a bake-pan with water enough to cover the bottom of the pan, in which is dissolved a little salt. Baste it three or four times with the salted water while cooking. Let it stew gently. When nearly done, cover it with dressing reserved for the purpose. Heat the lid to the pan sufficiently hot to brown it, cover and stew until done. It can be stewed in a dripping-pan, in a stove-oven, and browned when done by holding over it, if not already browned, a heated shovel. The dressing should be poured over it half an hour before taking it from the pan. Beef Cutlets. — Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in slices half an inch thick; trim them neatly; melt a little butter in a frying-[)an ; season the cut- lets ; fry them lightly ; serve with tomato sauce. Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms. — Cut tho fillet into slices, and pour over them some melted butter, seasoned with pepper and salt; let them stand for an hour; then put them in a frying pan over a quick fire, to brown lightly ; take them out, and put in the pan flour enough to thicken and brown, mix smoothly, add some stock, and some 82 MEATS. mushrooms half stewed or parboiled ; put the fillet back and cook all together till done. When ready to serve, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. The gravy should be smooth and thick. This dish is good substituting tomatoes for mush- rooms, and may be varied by using wine instead of lemon-juice. Fillet of Beef. — Take the sirloin or second cut of the ribs ; take out the bones with a sharp knife, skewer it round in good shape; lay the bones in a large saucepan, with two ouions, one carrot and a dozen cloves; add the meat, just covered with water. Let it cook slowly two hours; dish the meat ; skim all the fat from the gravy, add some flour mixed with cold water, aud two spoonfuls of walnut catsup ; give all one boil. Turn part of the gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a gravy tureen. English Beef Pie. — Cut cold roast beef, or beefsteak into thin slices, and put a layer in a deep pie dish; shake in a little flour, pepper and salt; chop a tomato or an onion very fine, and spread on this. Another layer of beef and seasoning, another onion, and so on, until the dish is filled. Add beef gravy, or dripping, and water sufficient to make a gravy. Mash one dozen large potatoes, with half a teacup of milk or cream, and a little butter and salt. Spread this over the beef as a crust, an inch thick. Brush with beaten egg, and bake half an hour. MEATS. 83 Beefsteak Pie. — Cover the bottom of a deep plate with paste. Cut the beef in pieces convenient for the month ; spread them evenly over the paste ; then add butter, flour, pepper, salt and water; cover with paste, press the edges firmly, and cut a gash in the centre of the pie ; it is good cold or hot. If to be used cold, make a gravy by boiling a bit of the bone, seasoning it the same as the pie ; heat the gravy, and serve it with the pie. Potatoes are all the vegetables needed — they should be mashed. These pies can be made from cold beefsteak left the day before, but are not quite as good. Beefsteak Pudding. — Prepare a good suet crust, and line a cake tin with it ; put in layers of raw steak, with onions, tomatoes and mushrooms, chopped fine, a seasoning of pepper, salt and Cayenne, and half a cup of cold water. Cover with crust, and bake two hours. Serve very hot. Beefsteak Smothered with Onions. — Cut up six onions very fine , put them into a saucepan with two cupfuls of hot water, about two ounces of good butter, some pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour. Let it stew until the onions are quite soft ; then have the steak broiled ; put it into the saucepan with the onions ; let it simmer about ten minutes, and send to the table very hot. Minced Beef. — Take the lean of some cold roast beef. Chop it very fine, adding a small 84 MEA'lS. mincp'^ onion ; and season it with pepper and salt. Put it into a stewpan, with some of the gravy that has been left from the day before, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then put it (two-thirds full) into a deep dish. Fill up the dish with mashed potatoes, heaped high in the centre, smoothed on the surface, and browned witli a salamander or a red- hot shovel. Beef Balls. — Mince very finely a piece of tender beef, fat and lean ; mince an onion, with some boiled parsley ; add grated bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel ; mix all together, and moisten with a well- beaten egg ; roll into balls ; flour, and fry them in boiling beef dripping. Serve with fried bread crumbs, or a thickened beef gravy. Mock Venison of Corned Beef. — Cut tho l)eef in thin slices, and freshen by soalcing for three or four hours in tepid water. When sufficiently fresh, lay the slices on a gridiron, and heat through quickly. Make a gravy of drawn butter; add a little pepper, and the yelk of an egg chopped fine, and pour over the meat ; or butter, pepper and salt, like beefsteak. This will be found a savory dish when only salt meat can be procured, but is better with fresh beef. Hash Balls of Corned Beef. — Prepare the hash by mincing with potatoes ; make it into flat MEATS. 85 cakes ; heat the gi'iddle, and grease it with plenty of sweet butter ; brown the balls first on one side, and then on the other, and serve hot. Yorkshire Puddixg, with Roast Beef. — Five tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with one of salt, one pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. Butter a square pan, and put the batter in it ; set it in the oven until it rises and is slightly crusted on top ; then place it under your beef roasting before the fire, or in the oven, and baste it as you do your meat. Corned Beef, Boiled. — Wash it thoroughly, and put it in a pot that will hold plenty of water. The water should boil when the beef is put in, and great care should be taken to skim it often. Half an hour for every pound of meat is sufficient time. Corn beef, to be tender and juicy, should boil very gently and long. If it is to be eaten cold, take it from the pot when boiled, and lay it in an earthen dish or pan, with a piece of board upon it, the size of the meat. Upon this put a heavy stone or couple of flat irons. It greatly improves salt meat to press it. Corned Beef Hash. — The best hash is made from boiled corned beef. It should be boiled very tender, and chopped fine Avhen entirely cold. The potatoes for hash made of corned beef are the better for being boiled in the pot liquor. When taken from the pot, remove the skins from the potatoes, and when cold chop them fine. To a cup of 86 >IEATS. cliopped meat allow four of chopped potatoes ; stir the potatoes gradually into the meat, until the whole is mixed. Do tliis at evening, and, if warm, set the hash in a cool place. In the morning put tlie pan on the fire with a lump of butter as large as the bowl of a tablespoon ; add a dust of pepper, and if not sufficiently salt, add a little; usually none is needed. When the butter has melted, put the hash in the pan ; add four tablespoons of water, and stir the whole together. After it has become really hot, stir it from the bottom, cover a plate over it, and set the pan where it will merely stew. This is a moist hash, and preferred by some to dry or browned hash. Pickling Beef. — Rub a quarter of a pound of saltpetre and a little brown sugar on the beef; the following day season it Avith half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of allspice. Let the beef lie in pickle fourteen days, turning it every day, adding a little common salt three times per week ; then wash it, and put it into a glazed earthen pipkin, deep enough to cover it. Lay beef suet under it; add one pint of water, cover the top with paste and then paper, or with a plate instead of paste. Bake seven hours in an oven ; pour off the liquor, but do not cut till cold. Will keep three months. Potted Ox-Toxgue. — Broil tender and un- smoked tongue of good flavor, and the following MEATS. 87 flay cut from it the quantity desired fjr potting, or take for this purpose the remains of one which has already been served at table. Trim uif the skin and rind, weigh the meat, mince it \ery small, then pound it as fine as possible, with four ounces of but- ter to each pound of tongue, a small teaspoonful of mace, half as much of nutmeg or cloves, and a tolerably high seasoning of Cayenne. After the spices are well beaten with the meat, ta'tc it, and add more if required. A few ounces of ajiy well- roasted meat mixed with the tongue, will give it firmness. The breasts of turkeys, fowls, partridges, or pheasants may be used for this purpose with good effect. Tongue Toast. — Take coM tongue that hag been well boiled, mince it fine, mix it with cream, or a little milk, if there is no cream at hand; add the beaten yelk of an egg, and give it a simmer over the fire. Toast nicely some thin slices of stale bread, and having buttered them, lay them in a flat dish that has been heated before the fire ; then cover each slice with the tongue mixture, which should be kept quite hot, and serve up imme- diately. Tongue, after it han been boiled, cut into thick slices, and stewed in a rich, brown gravy, makes a very nice corner-dish. Spiced Tkipe. — Take fresh tripe, cut it up in pieces four or five inches square ; take an earthen 88 MEATS. jar, put in a layer of tripe, then sprinkle a few cloves, allspice, and peppers (whole) over it ; then another layer of tripe, then spice, and so on till the jar is full ; take good vinegar, scald it, pour over it, filling the jar full ; cover it up and stand it away in a cool place for a few days, until it tastes of the spice, then serve it up cold for supper or any other meal. It is an excellent relish. Potted Beef. — Salt three pounds of lean beef, with half a pound of salt, and half an ounce of salt- petre. Let it stand three days. Divide it into pieces weighing a pound each, and ])ut it in an earthen pan of just sufficient size to contain it; pour over it half a pint of water, cover it close with paste, and set it in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven, pour the gravy into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten it with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thor- oughly in a marble mortar, with fresh butter, until it becomes a fine paste ; season it with black pepper and allspice, ground cloves, or grated nutmeg ; put it in pots, press it down as closely as possible, put a weight on it, and let it stand all night; next day, cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, and tie paper over it. Bubble and Squeak. — Take from a Vound of cold, boiled beef, one pound and a half of meat cut in thin slices, two carrots which have been boiled with tJie meat, cold, and the hearts of two boiled I MEATS. 89 greens, cold. Cut the meat into small squares, and chop the vegetables together ; pepper and salt the whole, and fry in a pan with a quarter of a pound of sweet butter. When fully cooked, toss into the pan half a gill of catsup, and serve, with mashed potatoes. Beef Cakes, No. 1 . — Pound some beef that is under-done with a* little fat bacon or ham ; season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or garlic ; mix them well, and make into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick ; fry them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick gravy. Beef Cakes, No. 2. — Take the best sirloin of beef, one pound; boil it until soft; boil also a beef tongue until soft. Take one pound of tongue, chop it and the sirloin very fine, with quarter of a pound of suet, and quarter of a ]jound of raisins. After you have made them as fine as you can, add pepper and salt to taste, also one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of allspice, one onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful of flour. Mix all well together, form into cakes, and fry in butter. Beef Croquettes. — Mince some dressed beef very fine ; melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, add three or four onions chopped fine, and fried a light brown ; add a spoonful of flour, and moisten with gravy or stock, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and chopped parsley. When the sauce is cooked, 90 MEATS. put in the minced beef, stew ten minutes, or till the sauce is dry, form the meat into balls, dip each into beaten white of egg. Have some lard and butter hot, but not boiling or the balls will break. Put each ball gently into the frying-pan, shaking a little flour over them; roll them about gently in the pan, to brown evenly, and when a good color, drain and serve on dressed parSley. To Roll Loin of Mutton. — Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and lay a seasoning of pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few cloves, all in fine powder over it. Next day prepare a stuffing ; beat the meat, and cover it with the stuffing ; roll it up tight and tie it. Half bake it in a slow oven; let it grow cold ; take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan ; flour the meat, and put it in like- wise; stew it till almost ready ; and add a glass of port-wine, some catsup, and a little lemon pickle half an hour before serving ; serve it in the gravy, with jelly sauce. Panned Mutton. — Remove all the fat from mutton cutlets, and trim neatly. Set them in melted butter, luke-warm, with pepper and salt Dip each into beaten yelk of egg, and afterwards in grated bread crumbs. Repeat the dipping till the cutlets are well covered with crumbs. Broil on a gridiron over a clear fire for ten minutes. Serve plain or with sauce, as preferred. Mutton Cutlets. — The most economical way MEATS. 91 of proceeding is to purchase a piece of the best end of a neck of mutton and divide and trim your chops at home. Every particle of gristle and almost all the fat should be removed from each cutlet, the bone or rib should not be more than two inches long, from the cutlet itself or "nut," and it should be scraped quite clean. Saw the bone at the end, as it looks badly chopped. Cut the meat about one-third of an inch thick, prepare neatly, and beat gently with the flat side of a meat chopper ; you may cook them plain or crumbed. The plain process consists in broiling them on the gridiron over or in front of a clear fire. The z^re should be a brisk one, and the cutlets should C le turned quickly and frequently while cooking. Chey should be thoroughly cooked, but not kept looking till hard and tough. Plain cutlets may also be fried in butter and lard. Crumbed cutlets require more trouble to prepare. The streak of meat with the fat and gristle which adheres to the bone need not be cut oif, but detatched from the bone, and turned up on the side of the " nut." Smear the cutlet thickly with well beaten egg, and dip several times in bread crumbs till thickly covered. Fry in butter and lard. Cutlets may be served in a plain, clear gravy, or with tomato or mushroom sauce. Mutton cutlets may also be stewed in a variety of ways, of which ,the following may be taken a.s 9^ MEATS. the common form : Put some butter in a stewpan, and place your cutlets in this, turning them over and over until they are well saisies (seized) by the butter ; then add a small quantity of well-flavored stock or gravy, and let them simmer in this till done, when they are served with the gravy, which you thicken, if necessary, with a little flour, over them. Vegetables may be cooked with the cutlets, and served with them, or a garniture of vegetables, cooked separately, can be put round the dish. MuTTOX Cutlets a la Bexe. — Take six chops from the best end of a neck of mutton, and after sawing off the. ends, braise them until they are tender. Put them aside to cool. Make a thick, rich onion sauce, season it well, and run it through a sieve ; then take the braised chops, when they are perfectly cold, and cut them into cutlets, and trim them into a proper shape. Dip each cutlet into the onion sauce, then into bread crumbs, and afterwards into egg and bread crumbs. Fry them in boiling lard, a light brown color ; drain them well, and serve with or without tomato sauce. Shoulder of Mutton. — A shoulder of mutton weighing six pounds requires one hour and thirty minutes to roast; if stuffed, fifteen minutes longer. Before cooking, take out all the bone and fill the space with a dressing of bread crumbs, pepper, salt, parsley, sweet marjoram, one egg and a small p<3ce of butter, all well mixed. "l MEATS. 'S^ MUTTOX PREPARED LIKE VeNISON. ChoOSe a large leg of mutton, and let it hang in a cool place ten days. Prepare a good forcemeat, and make a deep slit near the bone at the fillet end. Put in the forcemeat and sew over it a piece of linen to keep it in. Roast for two hours and thirty minutes. Make a gravy with the shank bone, one pound of soup beef, one onion, a few whole peppers, salt, and a pint and a half of water. Let this simmer for two hours. Add a dessertspoonful of flour to thicken it ; a little burnt sugar, if not dark enough in color, and more seasoning if necessary. When the meat is done, remove the linen cloth, strain part of the gravy over it, and serve. The remainder of the gravy should be served in a gravy-boat. Currant jelly should always be served with this dish. Saddle of Mutton, a la Portuguese. — To make this dish to look well, the saddle should be so carved as to have the sides left. When cold, the fillet, or undercut, and surplus meat is to be removed and cut small, and placed in a stewpan, with a little thickened gravy, mushroom catsup, pepper and salt. It should not be allowed to boil, but when hot should be placed on the saddle in the space from which the meat has been cut, and sjtrlnkled over with bread crumbs. It must be levelled to the sides, and placed in the oven. If the bread crumbs are not brown enough, a sala- mander must be made hot, and placed over it; it should be served very hot with currant jelly. 94 MEATS. COLD ilUTTON. There are not many people who object to eating cold beef, but there seems to be a popular prejudice against cold mutton. As far as loolcs go, when two or three persons have dined off a leg of mutton the day before, no amount of parsley, be it ever so curly and fresh, can make it look nice ; but as a matter of taste cold meat, be it beef or mutton, is by no means devoid of merit at certain seasons, and witii a proper accompaniment of salads, pickles, and sauces. Only to be perfect a cold joint should not be touched until it is cold ; the joint of yesterday's dinner is quite a different affaii*. It is not every- body who can indulge, however, in such niceties of taste. Given a leg of mutton it must be used, and made to go as far as possible to furnish the second and even the third day's dinner. If you wish to be very economical with a leg of mutton you should carve it pretty much as you do a ham, then the next day put it for twenty minutes into a vessel containing boiling water, take it out and sprinkle some salt and a little flour over it, and })ut it to roast for twenty minutes before a good fire, basting frequently with some dripping, melted for the purpose. The result will be a very fair second edition of roast leg of mutton. Some, however, may object to carving mutton after the fashion of ham, and in that case a hash or a mince are the only ways of turning cold mutton to account; but there MEATS. 95 are many ways of hashing mutton and other meats, and of mincing them, too. The great desideratum of a second-hand dish, so to speak, is that it should not taste as such. Noth- ing is more abominable than the bad taste which is so prominent in the attempts at warming up cold meat, which your plain cook is pleased to call minced veal, hashed mutton, etc. The only means to avoid that taste is to remove carefully from the cold meat you are going to use every part that has seen the fire, as well as gristle and fat. Let every slice be carefully trimmed, and let them all be as near as possible similar in size and shape ; then make your hash, and, even if you are not an expert at combining sauces and spices, at any rate it will not have a warmed-up taste. The following are various formulas for warming up mutton and other meats: Cut an onion in slices and fry it in butter till it assumes a deep brown color, then put in a table- spoonful of floor, and when it is well amalgamated with the butter add a little less than half a pint of stock broth, or even water previously warmed. Stir a few minutes on the fire, and then proceed to flavor your sauce with walnut or mushroom catsup, tomato sauce, spices, and pepper and salt, in such propor- tions as taste may suggest and practice will teach. A little burnt onioB browning may be put in if the sauce is not of a sufficiently deep color. When the flavoring is completed, strain the sauce through a 7 ^6 MEATS. fine colander into a saucepan and place in it yont slices of meat. Keep the saucepan at a moderate beat till it is time to serve^ and send up your hash with a garland of bread sippets fried in butter round jt. The longer the meat lies in the sauce the better "will your dish be. Proceed as in the above receipt as far as the butter, flour, and onions are concerned ; then add to your sauce a moderate allowance of mustard ; then add the stock and a wineglassful of wliite or red wine. Season with catsup, spices, pepper, and salt. Strain and put in the meat, serving with pickles or not, according to taste. Beef and pork are best warmed up in this Avay. A homely mode of warming cold meat is in this wise : Fry some slices of onion in butter, and when they begin to take color put in your slices of meat, pepper, salt, and a sprinkling of flour. Keep on frying till the onions are thoroughly done and the meat warmed, then adtl a small quantity of stock, broth, or water, with a small quantity of vinegar, and serve. Minced parsley may be added to any of the above dishes with advantage. If the state of the joint you have to work upon will allow it, cut your slices the thickness of your finger, trim them all nicely, as near as possible the same shape, then dip them in egg, and cover them with a mixture of bread crumbs, powdered, sweet herbs, pepper, and salt in due proportion. Let them MEATS, 97 rest a couple of hours, and egg and broad crumb them again; then fry them in plenty of lard till they are a nice color. Serve either alone with fried parsley as an ornament, or with any sauce, such as tomato, etc., which taste may suggest. Cold veal or pork treated in this way makes a very toothsome dish. Of course it is necessary to carry out these warm- ings-up, that the cold joint should not have been too heavily punished when it first appeared on the dinner table. When a joint has not enough left upon it to cut nice slices, then mincing is the best way to utilize it. Minced Mutton. — This is a very useful prepa- ration of " cold mutton," and will be found an ex- cellent mode. Cut slices ofif a cold roasted leg of mutton and mince it very fine; brown some flour in butter, and moisten it with some gravy ; add salt and pepper to taste, and let it simmer about ten or fifteen minntes to take off the raw taste of the flour; add another lot of butter and some parsley chopped fine, then add the minced meat, and let it simmer slowly, but not to boil, or the meat will be hard. Baked Minced Mutton. — The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton, one or two onions, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper and salt to taste, two blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, one teacupful of gravy, mashed potatoes. Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-bro\vn color ; add the herba and mutton, both of which should be also finely 98 MEATS. minced and well mixed ; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and moisten M'ith the above proportion of gravy. Put a layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton, and then another layer of potatoes, and bake for about half an hour. If there should be a large quantity of meat, use two onions instead of one. Browned Minced INIutton. — Cut some lean meat from a roast leg of mutton, chop it fine, season it with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and a little onion ; mix all together with a quarter of a pound of grated bread, moisten with a tablespoonful of vine- gar and a cup of good gravy; when put into the dish lay an ounce of butter in small bits on the top, grate bread over it, and add a little more butter; brown before the fire. HOW TO CX)OK LAMB. To Roast Lamb. — The hind quarter of lamb usually weighs from seven to ten pounds ; this size will take about two hours to roast it. Have a brisk fire. It must be very frequently basted while roast- ing, and sprinkled with a little salt, and dredged all over with flour, about half an hour before it is done. Fore Quarter op Lamb. — A fore quarter of a lamb is cooked the same way, but takes rather less time, if the same weight, than the hind quarter; MEATS. 99 because it is a thinner joint ; one of nine pounds ouglit to be allowed two hours. Leg op Lamb. — A leg of lamb of four pounds' weight will take about an hour and a quarter ; if five pounds, nearly one hour and a half; a shoulder of four pounds will be roasted in an hour, or a very few minutes over. Ribs of Lamb. — Ribs of lamb are thin, and require great care to do gently at first, and brisker as it is finishing; sprinkle it with a little salt, and dredge it slightly with flour, about twenty minutes before it is done. It will take an hour or longer, according to thickness. Garnish and Vegetables for Roast Lamb. —All joints of roast lamb may be garnished with double parsley, and served up with either asparagus and new potatoes, spring spinach and new potatoes, green peas and new potatoes, or with cauliflowers or French beans and potatoes ; and never forget to send up mint sauce. The following will be found an excellent receipt for mint sauce : With three heaped tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped young mint, mix two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best vinegar ; stir it until the sugar is dissolved. To Stew a Breast of Lamb. — Cut it into pieces, season them with pepper and salt, and stew them in weak gravy; when tender, thicken the sauce, and add a glass of white wine. Cucumbers, sliced and stewed in gravy, may be served with the 100 MEATS. lamb, the same being poured over it. Or, tlie lamb may be served in a dish of stewed mushrooms. To Boil. A Neck or Breast of Lamb. — These are small, delicate joints, and therefore suited only for a very small family. The neck must be washed in warm water, and all the blood carefully cleaned away. Either of these joints should be put into cold water, well skimmed, and very gently boiled till done. Half an hour will be about sufficient' for either of them, reckoning from the time they come to a boil. Lamb Chops. — Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it half an inch thick, retaining the kidney in its place ; dip them into egg and bread crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. When chops are made from a breast of lamb, the red bone at the edo-e of the breast should be cut off, and the breast parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced carrot and two or three onions, before it is divided into cutlets, which is done by cutting between every second or third bone, and preparing them, in every respect, as the last. If house-Iamb steaks are to be done white — stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of lemon-peel, a little salt, some pepper and mace. Have ready some veal gravy, and put the steaks into it ; mix some mushroom- powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour; shake the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get MEATS, 101 quite hot, but not boil. Just before you take it up, j)ut in a few white mushrooms. Lamb Cutlets and Spinach. — Eigftt cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little clarified butter. Take the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fit -and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bgnes quite clean. Brush the cutlets ov^er with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and season with j)epper and salt. Now dip them into clarified but- ter, sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sliarp fire, turning them when re- quired. Lay them before tlie fire to drain, and arrange them oa a dish with spinach in the centre, which should be prev:iously v/ell boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned. Peas, asparagus, or beans may be substituted for the spinach. Loin, Neck, and Breast op Lamb. — A loin of lamb will be roasted in about an hour and a quarter; a neck in an hour; and a breast in three- quarters of an hour. Do not forget to salt and flour these joints about twenty minutes before they are done. Broiled Lamb Steak. — Broil slowly until quite done, then make a gravy with fresh butter meked by the steak, add a dust of pepper, and a little salt dissolved in a tablespoonful of water; serve with peas, ^)otatoea, luid salads. 102 MEATS. Leg op Lamb to Boil. — It must be put into boiling water, then the saucepan (or deep fish-kettle with a di'ainer is best) drawn back, and the water allowed to simmer gently, reckoning eighteen minutes to each pound ; if it boils fast, the meat will be hard and the skin broken. It should be lifted out of the water with the drainer, and no fork be stuck into it ; if the scum has settled upon it, wash it oiY with some of the liquor before sending to table. Pai-sley and butter are served with this, or delicate caper sauce and young carrots. Leg of Lamb to Eoast. — All lamb should be very well cooked, and not put too near the fire at first ; from eighteen to twenty minutes to the pound before a clear but not fierce heat. It may be served with spinach, peas, or asparagus. Boxed Quarter of Lamb. — Bone a quarter of lamb, taking care not to injure the skin. Make a seasoning in the following manner : Cut three onions and fry them in lard ; when these are nearly done, add some parsley, chopped very fine, spice, two spoonfuls of cream, and four eggs. Simmer this mixture over the fire until quite thick, then stuff it into the meat in the spaces left by the bones, roll the meat up and roast it, basting with bread crumbs and butter. Serv^e with a rich sauce. Fricassee of Lamb. — Cut the best part of a breast of lamb into square pieces of two inches each ; wash, dry, and flour them. Boil together MEATS, 103 four ounces of butter, one of fat bacon, some pars- ley or sweet marjoram for ten minutes, and tlien add the meat; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; chop an onion with pepper and salt and throw in. Simmer all for two hours ; add the yelks of two eggs well beaten, shake over the fire two minutes, and serve. Savory Lamb Pie. — Cut the meat into pieces, and season it with finely-beaten pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Make a good puff-paste, and put the meat into it, adding some lambs' sweet- breads, seasoned in the same manner. Put in some oysters and forcemeat balls, some yelk of egg, and tops of asparagus, boiled green. Put butter all over the pie, and put on the covering paste, and let it bake for an hour and a half in a quick oven. Mix a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill of wine, and a little nutmeg, with the yelks of two or three eggs well beaten, and stir it in the same direc- tion all the time. When it boils, take the cover off the pie, pour the mixture into it. Cover again and serve. Stewed Breast of Lamb, with Peas or Cu- cumbers. — First roast the lamb to a nice brown color. Mix a tablespoonful of flour smoothly in cold water, burn a teaspoonful of sugar in an iron spoon, pour boiling Avater over it into the flour, mix all smoothly ; strain it ; add as much boiling water as will barely cover the meat, putting it into 104 . MEATS. a stewpaii wltli tlie bones upwards, add a blade of mace, and a little salt; let it stew for two hours, till the meat is very tender and the bones will slip; M'hile the meat is cooking boil some peas, or, in their place, peel some small cucumbers, put them into boiling water, with a little salt and a small piece of butter, and boil for twenty minutes; drain them. When the meat is ready, thicken the gravy if neces- sary; add a little butter and a tablespoonful of catsup, place the meat on a dish, bones downward, strain the gravy over it. Drain the i)eas, or cut the cucumbers across in three pieces and place round the meat. Stewed Leg of Lamb. — Dredge the joint with flour, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of butter, some paisley, pepper, and salt. Stew gently for half an hour. Choose some small, sound heads of lettuce and cut in small pieces ; put them in a stewpan with a little sorrel, and stew with the mut- ton for ano'.her hour. Dish the joint, and add to the liquor in the stewpan half a })int of water. Boil up, pour over the meat, and serve. LA:\rB SwEET-RREADS. — Blanch them, and put them into cold water. Soak five minutes; put them into a stewpan with a ladleful of broth, some pej)- per and salt, a small bunch of button onions, and a blade of mace; stir in a piece of butter braided in flour, and stew for half an hour. Have ready the yelks of three eggs well beaten in cream, with MEATS. 105 a little minced parsley and grated nutmeg. Add some boiled asparagus tops. After the cream is in, simmer, but do not boil, as it would curdle. French beans or peas, if very tender, are an im- provement. IjArded Lamb. — Lard the upper side of a fore quarter of lamb with lean bacon, and cover the lower side thickly with grated bread. Cover the whole with paper to prevent burning, and roast it. Take it from the fire when nearly done, and cover the lower side once more with gi'ated bread ; season it with salt, pepper, and finely-chopped parsley ; put it before a brisk, clear fire to brown. Pour over all a little cider vinegar, and serve. Chops, with Cucumbers. — Fry the chops of a light brown, and stew them for half an hour in good gravy ; thicken and flavor the gravy, and add to it some cucumbers, thickly sliced and previously stewed. Boil them up together, and put the cucum- bers on the dish, and the chops on them. To Dress Kidneys. — Cut them through the centre; take out the core; pull the kernels apart ; put them into the-saucepan without any water, and set them on the fire where they may get hot, not boil ; in half an hour put the kidneys into cold water, Avash them clean, and put them back into the saucepan, with just enough water to cover them ; boil them one hour, then take them up ; clean off the fat and skin ; put into the frying-pan some 106 MEATS. butter, pepper and salt; dredge in a little flour, half a pint of hot water, and the kidneys ; let them simmer twenty minutes; stir them often; do not let them fry, because it liardeus them. This is a very nice dish for breakfast. Fried Sheep Kidneys. — Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for seven or eight minutes, turning them when they are half done. Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney ; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot. Mutton Kidneys Broiled. — Skin and split without parting asunder ; skewer them through the outer edge and keep them flat ; lay the opened sidea first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk ; in ten minutes turn them ; sprinkle with salt and Cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterAvards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, squeeze some lemon- juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. Kidney OxMELETTE. — Remove all the fat and skin from six kidneys. Cut into very fine pieces, season with salt and pepper, and fry quickly iu butter. Beat together two dozen eggs with a wine- glass of wine. Heat quarter of a pound of butter MEATS. 107 in a frying-pan, pour in the eggs, and just before they are set, put the kidneys in the middle. Turn over the ends of the omelette, and brown on top, before a clear fire, and serve, with thin slices of lemon on the edge of the dish. Kidneys a la Brochette. — Remove the thin skin from the outside of the kidneys. Split in two, without entirely separating the halves. Lay flat with a little skewer passed through each to keep the halves apart. Powder with salt and pepper, put them on a gridiron, with the inner side of the kidneys next the fire. When one side is brown, turn them, and when the outside is done, the edges will turn up to form a cup ; fill this with a little cold butter beaten with minced herbs; squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and serve. Roast Veal. — Season a breast of veal with pepper and salt ; skewer the sweet-bread firmly in its place, flour the meat and roast it slowly before a moderate fire for about four hours — it should be of a fine brown, but not dry ; baste it with butter. When done, put the gravy in a stewpan, add a piece of butter rolled in browned flour, and if there should not be quite enough gravy, add a little more M'ater, with pepper and salt to taste. The gravy should be brown. Spiced Veal. — Cut the thick portion of a loin of veal into small pieces, and cover it with hot spiced vinegar. To every half pint of vinegar put 108 MEATS. a teaspoonful of allspice, a little mai^e, salt and Cayenne pepper to taste. Stew till tiie meat is tender, adding more vinegar if it dries too fast. Curry of Veal. — Cut part of a breast of veal in moderate sized pieces ; put it in a stewpan with an onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice of lemon, one ounce of butter, a little parsley and thyme, and a tablespoonful of curry-powder mixed with the same quantity of flour ; let the whole sweat together until the meat is slightly brown ; add sufficient broth or water for the sauce ; let it boil gently till the veal is done ; strain the sauce through a sieve, pour it over the veal quite hot, and serve with rice in a separate dish. Fricassee of Veal. — Cut in bits lean veal, and parboil in salted water. Drain oif the water, dust the veal with flour, and brown in butter ; add sufficient of the broth for the gravy to the browned butter, and thicken very little with flour. Toast bread, lay the slices on the platter, lay on each slice a part of the veal, and pour the gravy over the whole. Serve with mashed potatoes. Veal Cutlets with Sweet Herbs. — Chop all sorts of sweet herbs, mushrooms, onions, pepper and salt, with a spoonful of butter ; dip the cutlets in this, and reduce the sauce to make it stick; do them over with egg and bread crumbs, and set them in the oven to bake ; then add a glass of white wine to the sauce, skim it well, and when the cutlets are MEATS'. 109 done lay them on a dish, and send them- to table with the sauce poured over. Calf's Head. — Split the head in two parts, and remove the brains, wash the brains in three waters, and lay them for an hour in cold salted water. AVash the head clean, and soak it in tepid water, until the blood is well drawn out. Put it in cold water ; when it boils remove the scum, and simmer gently, until a straw can be run through it. A head with the skin will take three hours, if large, and without the skin two. Scald the brains, by pouring over them boiling water, take them out and remove the skin or film, put them in plenty of cold water, and simmer gently fifteen minutes. Chop them slightly, stew them in sweet butter ; add a teaspoon half full of lemon-juice, or not, as desired, and a little salt ; when done, skin the tongue, lay it in the centre of the dish, and the brains round it. Send the head to the table very hot, with drawn butter poured over it, and more in the tureen. Veal Chops, Breaded. — Take six or seven handsomely cut chops, season them with salt and pepper, and put them into melted butter. When sufficiently soaked put them into beaten eggs, take them out, and roll each separately in bread crumbs; make the chops as round as you can with your hand, and lay them in a dish. When all are breaded, broil them slowly over a moderate fire, that the bread may not be too highly colored. Serve with clear gravy. 110 MEATS. Veal Cutlets, with Ragout.— Cut some large cutlets from the fillet, beat them flat, and lard them ; strew over them pepper, salt, bread crumbs, and shred parsley ; then make a ragout of veal sweet- breads and mushrooms; fry the cutlets of a nice brown in melted butter ; lay them in a dish, and serse the ragout very hot over them. Fillet of Veal, Boiled. — Choose a small, delicate fillet for this purpose ; prepare as for roasting, or stuff with an oyster forcemeat; bind round with a tape ; cover it with milk and water in equal quantities, and let it boil very gently for four hours, keeping it carefully skimmed. Send it to the table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oyster forcemeat, with oyster sauce; garnish with stewed celery, and slices of bacon. Breast of Veal, with Oyster Sauce. — Rub the veal all over with salt and pepper. Cover it with buttered paper and then with coarse paste, baste frequently, to prevent the paper and paste from burning ; half an hour before serving, remove the paste and paper. Beat the white of an egg, add a very little loaf sugar, and wet the veal with the egg and sugar, without leaving any lumps of the glazing, and brown it nicely. Prepare drawn butter with oysters, and serve the sauce in a tureen. This sauce can be used with roast or boiled veal, to good advantage, if oysters are plenty. Serve with mashed potatoes and celery. MEATS. Ill Shoulder of Veal. — Cut the veal into small, square pieces, and parboil them. Put the bones and trimmings into another pot, with a very little water, and stew them slowly, to make the gravy. Put the meat into a pie-dish, (deep) and season it with salt, Cayenne, tiie yellow rind of a large lemon grated, and some j>owdered mace or nutmeg. Add pieces of butter rolled in flour, or cold dripping of roast veah Strain the gravy over the meat. Set in a hot oven, and bake brown. When nearly done, throw in a glass of wine, and serve hot. Hashed Calf's Head. — Calf's head, one egg, a teaspoouful of flour, a grating of nutmeg, three tablespoonfuls of milk, some slices of bacon, a dozen forcemeat balls, pepper, salt, mace, an onion, bunch of herbs, one wineglassful of port wine, eight mush- rooms, pint of gravy, lard. Carefully cleanse the head of a freshly killed calf, boil it three-<(uarters of an hour, let it stand till cold, then slice it up into uice looking pieces. Peel the tongue and cut it into thin slices; boil the brain in a cloth, chop it fine, and beat it up with the egg, flour, milk, and nut- meg- Have ready a frying-pan of boiling lard, and fry the mixture in fritters the size of a crown piece. Flavor the gravy with the whole pepper, mace, cloves, herbs, onion, aad Cayenne pepper. Let it simmer ten minutes, strain, and add the wine and mushrooms. Place the sliced head in this, and let it heat gently for ten minutes. Serve in the centre S 112 MEATS. of tlie dish with the brain fritters, bacon, forcemeat balls, round. Strew little egg- balls over the whole. CoLLAEKD Calf's Head. — Boil half a calf's head in just enough water to cover ft. Let it boil for two hours. Remove it from the broth and cut all the meat from the bones. Return the bt)nes again to the broth and let them continue to stew. Put into the broth some sage leaves ; take out the brains and put the meat into a jar with some slices of ham, pepper, and salt, and the t&ngue. Set the jar in a good oven for two horn's ; let it be closely covered. Beat up the bi*ains with two eggs and pour them in. Remove the whole to a mould, and fill it with strained broth. Dish when Cfuite cold. Tea Pie of Veal. — ^The scrag, breast, or neck of veal will be suitable for this disl:^. Cut the meat into slices about an inch thick, fry some slices of salt pork in an iron pot, flour the slie-es of vetil, put them in the hot fat, and brown them ; cover them with water, and simmer half an hour. Season with salt and |>epper, and di^etlge with ifonr. Make a common paste, roll half an inch thick, and cover the meat. Cover t?)e pot with a hot Iran cover; ceok gently for an hour. VeaIl Perr-PiE.. — Cii aiiiy piece- of veal intO' small pieces;, wash and seaso-n it vnth |«pper and salt. TArte the sides ©f an iron: pot with common paste. Put in tlie veal with som..e pieces af piste- I'olletl thin and cuit in squud'es, stMne pieces of butter i'olle<:l iu MEATS. 113 flour, and as much water as will cover all. Cover with a sheet of paste, cutting a hole in the centre, put the lid on the pot, and cook slowly for two hours. Place the soft crust on a dish, put the meat on that, and on the top lay the hard crust with the brown side up. Serve the gravy separately. To have the crust of a pot-pie brown, set the pot for a few moments over a clear fire, after the meat is out. Veal Minced. — Mince the veal as finely as pos- sible, separating the skin, gristle, and bones, with which a gravy should be made. Put a small quantity of the gravy into a stewpan, with a little lemon-peel grated, and a spoonful of milk or cream. Thicken it with a little butter and flour, mixed gradually with the gravy ; season it with salt and a little lemon- juice and Cayenne pepper. Put in the minced veal and let it simmer a few minutes. Serve it up with sippets of bread, and garnish with sliced lemon. Minced Yeal, with Poached Eggs, — Mince part of a fillet of veal extremely fine, put it into a stewpan, and pour over it a sufficient quantity of good hot sauce to make it of a tolerable thickness ; then have a stewpanful of water, with a little vine- gar in it, and as soon as it boils break in two eggs, and keep boiling quickly, but not so as to boil over. AVhen they are done take them out with a cullender spoon, put them into another stewpan with clear warm water, and so on till six are done. When you want to serve, squeeze a little lemon-juice in the 114 MEATS. mince, pour it on a hot dish, taKe the eggs out of the water, neatly trim them, lay them on some veal, and serve. Minced Veal. — Take three or four pounds of the lean only of a fillet or loin of veal, and mince it very finely, adding a slice or two of cold ham, minced also ; add three or four small young onions, chopped small, a teaspoonful of sweet marjoram leaves, rubbed from the stalks, the yellow rind of a small lemon, grated, and a teaspoonful of mixed mace and nut- meg, powdered ; mix all well together, and dredge it with a little flour. Put it into a stewpan, with sufficient gravy of cold roast veal to moisten it, and a large tablespoonful or more of fresh butter. Stir it well, and let it stew till thoroughly done. If the veal has been previously cooked a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. It will be much improved by adding a pint or more of small button mush- rooms, cut from the stems, and then put in whole ; also, by stirring in two tablespoonfuls of cream about five minutes before it is taken from the fire. Fried Patties. — Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham and two-thirds veal. Add an egg, boiled hard and chopped, and a season- ing of pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel ; moisten with a little gravy and cream. Make a good puff-paste, roll rather thin, and cut it into round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may also be baked in patty- MEATS. 115 pans. In that case they should be brushed ovei with the yelk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety, oysters may be substituted for the ham. Fry the patties about fifteen minutes. Veal Forcemeat. — Free a piece of lean veal from skin and sinews. To one pound of meat put one pound of suet, chopped very fine, and one pound of grated bread crumbs, two drachms of chopped parsley, one drachm each of lemon-peel, sweet herbs, and onions, half a drachm of powdered allspice. Pound all in a mortar, adding a well-beaten egg or two if too dry. Rub all well together and season with pepper and salt. Veal Croquettes. — Half a pound of veal, minced fine, quarter of a pound of stale bread crumbs. Put on in a saucepan and moisten with the liquor the veal was boiled in, and the raw yelk of two eggs mixed in with the bread crumbs; cook it until it begins to leave the sides of the pan. Two teaspoon- fuls of chopped pai'sley, one of thyme, one of chopped onions, half a nutmeg, quarter of a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, quarter of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter; mix the above into the bread crumbs, then add the veal after well mixing. Roll out each croquette into the shape of a pear, then dip them into the whiteof anegg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Sauce served with them should be brown sauce with spices and wine in it. 116 MEATS. Veal Sausages. — Chop equal.quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a little salt, pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat all in a mortar, and, when used, roll and fry it, and serve with fried sippets or on stewed vegetables. Veal Rolls. — Cut thin slices, and spread on them a fine seasoning of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scraped ham, and a little suet and parsley, pepper, salt, and a small piece of pounded mace. This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage, or rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up very tight and stew it very slowly in gravy. Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely. Superior Veal Rolls. — Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal half an inch thick ; rub them over with egg ; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of veal ; brush these with the egg, and over this spread forcemeat thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy. Fry the roll from ten to fifteen minutes. Veal Sweet-bread. — ^Trlra a fine sweet- bread ; parboil it for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. Roast it plain, or beat up the yelk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread crumbs. A¥hen the sweet-bread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; run a skewer through it ; egg it with a paste-brush, powder it well with bread crumbs, and MEATS. -.. 117 roast it. For sauce, fried bread crumbs round it, and melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup and lemon-juice, or serve them on buttered toast, garnished with egg sauce or with gravy. Sweet-breads. — Scald them in salt and water, and take out the stringy parts. Then put them in cold water for a few moments. Dry them in a towel, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry brown in but- ter. When they are done, take them on a dish, pour into the frying-pan a large cup of sweet cream, a little pepper and salt, and a little green parsley, chopped fine. Dust in a very little flour, and when it boils up pour it over the breads, and send to the table hot. Fried Sweet-bread. — Sweet-breads should al- ways soak half an hour in tepid water with a pinch of salt in it, to make them white. Put them after- wards in cold water, and pljjce over the fire to boil ; boil ten minutes. Cut them into slices, brush them with beaten egg, and cover with grated bread crumbs. Fry each slice till brown, in butter. Serve with rich gravy. Veal Olfves. — Cut two thin steaks from a fil- let of veal ; beat them, and rub them over with the yelk of an egg ; cut them in strips four inches long. Over every strip lay a very thin piece of fat bacon, and strew each witii grated bread crumbs, a little lemon-peel, and chopped parsley, and season with salt and Cayenne. Roll each strip up and fasten 118 ^ MEATS. With a little wooden skewer. Dip each roll into egg, grated bread, and chopped parsley. Put some clarified beef dripping into a frying-pan, let it boil; then throw in tlie rolls, and fry light brown. To a pint of good gravy add a dessertspoonful of lemon pickle, a dessertspoonful of walnut catsup, and a tea- spoonful of browning, Cayenne pepper and salt to taste, and thicken with butter rolled in flour. Place the fried olives on a dish, strain the gravy over them hot; garnish with lemon pickle and forced meat balls, and strew over all pickled mushrooms to flavor. Roast Leg of Pork. — Cut a slit n,ear the knuckle, and fill the space with sage and onion, chopped fine, and seasoned with pepper and salt, with or without bread crumbs. Rub sweet oil on the skin, to prevent it blistering and make the crackling crisp ; and the outer rind may be scored with lines, about half an inch apart. If the leg weigh seven or eight pounds, it will require from two and a half to three hours' roasting before a strong fire. Serve with apple sauce and potatoes ; which are like\vise eaten with all joints of roasted pork. If the stuffing be liked mild, scald the onions before chopping them. If pork is not stuffed, you may serve it up with sage and onion sauce, as well as apple sauce, which should always accompany roast pork, whether it is stuffed or not ; and also MEATS. 119 with mustard. Roast leg of pork must always be served up with plenty of nicely boiled potatoes. Fresh Pork Pot-Pie.^ — Boil a epare-rib, after removing all the fat, and cracking the bones, until tehJer; remove the scum as it rises, and when ten- der, season with salt and pepper ; half an hour be- fore time for serving the dinner, thicken the gravy with a little flour, have ready another kettle into which remove all the bones and most of the gravy, leaving only sufficient to cover the jjot half an inch above the rim that rests on the stove ; put in the crust ; cover tight, and boil steadily twenty-five minutes. To prepare the crust, work into light dough a small bit of butter, roll it out thin, cut it in small square cakes, and lay them on the mould- ing-board until very light ; if made with brewers' yeast, the butter should be melted in the wetting of the crust, and rolled out before rising, as the first effervescence of brewers' yeast is the strongest; work the dough well before making up the cakes. Pork Chops. — Cut the chops about half an inch thick ; trim them neatly, (few cooks have any idea how much credit they get by this;) put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of butter ; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all over; they will be done enough in about fifteen minutes; take one upon a plate and try it; if done, season it with a little finely-minced onion, powdered sage, and pepper and salt. A little pow- 120 MEATS. dered sage, etc., strewed over them, will give them a nice relish. PojRK Steak, Broiled. — The tenderloin is the best for steak, but any lean white meat is good. Broil slowly, after splitting it so as to allow it to cook through without drying or burning. When ready to turn over, dip the cooked side in a nice gravy of butter, pepper, and salt, which should be prepared on a plate, and kept hot without boiling. It must be. well done. It requires slow broiling. It Avill take at least twenty minutes to broil a pork steak. Pork Cutlets. — Cut slices an inch thick from a delicate loin of pork, trim them neatly ; take ofi* a part of the fat, or if the fat is not liked, remove the whole of it. Dredge a little pepper and salt on the cutlets, and broil them over a clear fire about twenty minutes. They may be dipped in beaten egg and afterwards in grated bread crumbs flavored with minced sage, and then broil. If fried, they should be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and dredged with flour before being put in the fat. The best fat is fried from bacon or salt pork. Pork and Apple Fritters. — Prepare a light batter, freshen or use cold boiled or baked pork ; cut it fine enough for hash, and fry it a little to extract some of the fat for frying the fritters. Peel sour apples, and cut or chop them not quite as fine as the pork ; mix first the pork and then the apples MEATS. 121 in the batter, and fry them brown. Potatoes, parsnips, salsify, or any vegetable desired, can be used in the same manner. English Eaised Poek Pie. — Put into a stew- pan six ounces of lard, with a teacupful of cold water ; let it stand by the fire till boiling, then put to it one pound of flour. Mix it well with a spoon till cool enough to raise. When you have raised your pies, let them stand for half an hour before }'0u put in your meat; put on your cover and orna- ment to your fancy. To prepare the meat,, cut up the pork to about the size of dice, add pepper and salt to your taste (but take care that the pepper be equally distributed), add one tablespoonful of water to each pound of meat. One pound of flour will bake three good-sized pies. They require three hours' baking in a very moderate oven. Fresh Pork Pie. — Boil lean, fresh pork, and make the paste as for beefsteak pie ; add to the pie, after putting in the meat, two potatoes cut fine, which have been before boiled ; season with pepper, salt, and a dust of summer savory. If there is not fat enough in the pork, add butter; thicken the gravy with a little flour. The pie should contain as much gravy as possible. It is good cold or hot. Scrambled Pork. — Freshen nice salt pork, cut it in mouthfuls, and partly fry it. Just before it is done break into the pan with the pork from six to twelve eggs, break and mix the yelks with the 122 MEATS. whites, and stir them quickly with the pork. If the pork is fried brown before the egg is added, there may be too much fat for the egg ; if so, put it in a gravy-boat if needed for the table, or sav^e it for shortening. Baked potatoes are excellent with salt meats that have a gravy of their own. To Cure Hams. — To each green ham of eighteen pounds, one dessertspoonful of saltpetre; quarter of a pound of brown sugar rubbed on tho fleshy side of the ham, and round the hock. Cover the fleshy part with fine salt half an inch thick, and pack away in tubs ; let them remain from three to six weeks, according to size. Before smoking, rub off any salt that may remain on the ham, and cover well with ground black pepper, especially on the bone and hock. Hang up to drain for two days ; smoke with green wood for eight days, or until the rind is a light chestnut color. The pepper is a certain preventive of the fly. Baked Ham. — Soak for an hour in water, and wipe very dry ; cover with a thin batter, and put it in a deep dish, with a grate under it, to keep it up ■from the gravy. When fully done, take off the skin and batter. Cool and garnish as boiled ham ; serve with wine sauce. Ham Pie. — Make a crust the same as for soda biscuit; line your dish; then put in a layer of potatoes sliced thin, pepper, salt, and a little butter; MEATS. 123 then a layer of lean liara; add considerable water, and you will have an excellent pie. Ham Omelette. — Two eggs, four ounces of butter, half a sultspoonful of pepper, two tablespoon- fuls of minced ham. Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for two minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelette, stir in the ham, and proceed as in tlie case of a plain omelette. Do not add any salt to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavor to the omelette. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well for this dish ; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy. Ham Toast. — Grate a sufficiency of the lean of cold ham. Mix some beaten yelk of egg with a little cream, and thicken it with the grated ham. Then put the mixture into a saucepan over the fire, and let it simmer awhile. Have ready some slices of bread nicely toasted (all the crust being pared off) and well buttered. Spread it over thickly with the ham mixture, and send it to table warm. Omelette of Ham, Tongue, or Sausage. — There are three methods of making a ham or tongue omelette : first, by simply cutting the meat into small dice, tossing it in butter, and pouring the well beaten and seasoned eggs upon it in the pan, and letting them remain until set, when serve ; or pound the meat to a paste in a mortar, and beat it 124 MEATS. up with the eggs, and fry in the usual manner The third method is to beat the eggs and fry them, then lay upon them the meat (which has been pre- viously tossed in butter), fold in the ends of the omelette, and serve as hot as possible. Sausages, No. 1. — The proper seasoning is salt, pepper, sage, summer-savory, or thyme ; they should be one-third fat, the remainder lean, finely chopped, and the seasonings well mixed, and proportioned so that one herb may not predominate over the others. If skins are used, they cannot be prepared with too much care; but they are about as well made into cakes ; spread the cakes on a clean white- wood board, and keep them in a dry cool place ; fry them long and gently. Sausages No. 2 are best when quite fresh made, Put a bit of butter or dripping into a clean frying- pan ; as soon as it is melted (before it gets hot) put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them (be careful not to break or prick them in so doing) ; fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides ; when they are done, lay them on a hair sieve, placed be- fore the fire for a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret of frying sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually ; they then will not burst, if they are not stale. The common practice to prevent their bursting is to prick them with a fork ; but this lets the gravy out. MEATS. 125 Sausage Dumplings. — Make one pound of flour and two ounces of dripping, or chopped suet, into a firm paste, by adding just enough water to enable you to knead the whole together. Divide this paste into twelve equal parts, roll each of these out sufficiently large to be able to fold up one of the beef sausages in it, wet the edge of the paste to fasten the sausage securely in it, and, as you finish off each sausage dumpling, drop it gently into a large enough saucepan, containing plenty of boiling water, and when the whole are finished, allow them to boil gently by the side of the fire for one hour, and then take up the dumplings with a spoon free from water, on to a dish, and eat them while they are hot. Sausage Cakes. — Chop a pound of good pork fine ; add half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a spoon- ful of cloves, half a spoonful of coriander seed, and four tablespoonfuls of cold water. Mix all well together, form them into small cakes, and fry in a hot pan. Scrapple. — Take eight pounds of scrap pork, that will not do for sausage, boil it in four gallons of water; wlien tender, chop it fine, strain the liquor and pour it back into the pot ; put in the meat, season it with sage, summer savory, salt and pepper to taste, stir in a quart of corn meal ; after simmering a few minutes, thicken it with buckwheat 126 MEATS. flour very thick; it requires very little cooking after it is thickened, but must be stirred constantly. To Prepare Fowls for Cooking. — Professor Blot, in his lectures on cooking, gives the following directions for preparing fowls : Never wash meat or fowls. Wipe them dry if you choose, and if there is anything unacceptable it can be sliced ofif thinly. In cooking a chicken whole, no Avashing is to be done, except the gall-bladder be broken, when it is best to cut the chicken up and wash it thoroughly. Again, in cleansing chickens, never cut the breast ; make a slit down the back of the neck, and take out the crop that way. Then cut the neck-bone close, and after the bird is stuffed the skin of the neck can be turned up over the back, sewed down, and the crop will look full and round. Further, the breast-bone should be struck smartly with the back of a heavy knife, or with a rolling-pin, to break it. This will make the chicken lie rounder and fuller after it is stuffed. The legs and wings should also be fastened with thread close to the side, running a long needle through the body for that purpose. A good stuffing for baked or roast chicken may be made by chopping an onion fine, and stirring it Avith two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire. It is taken off a moment, and bread, which has been soaked in water and the water squeezed out, is added, with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and some parsley, chopped fine. Then one yelk of an egg, mixed in thoroughly on MEATS. 127 the fire for half a minute. This stuffing is then inserted in the chicken. It is important in choosing poultry to ascertain, if possible, its age. A young fowl has smooth legs and combs. When old they are rough, and have long hairs on the breast. They should be plump- breasted, with fat backs, and have white or light yellow legs. Fowl Stewed with Onions. — Wash it clean, dry and truss it as for boiling ; put a little pepper and salt into it, rub it with butter ; butter a sauce- pan ; put the fowl in the pan with a pint of veal stock, or water, seasoned with pepper and salt. Turn it while stewing, and when quite tender add a dozen small onions, split. Stew all together for half an hour. A young fowl will take one hour, an old one three hours to stew. "-* '■''"'' Steamed Fowls. — Fowls are better steamed than boiled, especially when there is no veal' stock on hand to boil them in. When steamed, the juices, should be saved by placing a pan under the strainet to catch all the drips. Drawn butter, plain or sea- soned with parsley or celery, is the most common sauce used for boiled fowls. Liver sauce ife gobd'; but when oysters can be had, oyster sauce is to 1)6 preferred above all others. Fowl Cutlets. — One fowl, one egg, pinch oi^ pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of gravy. Cut lirp a fowl, and bone it, form the legs, wings, breast, 9 128 MEATS. and merry-thought into six cutlets, flattening and giving them a good shape ; take the meat from the remainder of the fowl, and the liver, pound it in a mortar with pepper, salt, and a spoonful of gravy ; brush the cutlet over with an egg, spread the force- meat over them, egg again, and cover with fried bread crumbs, and fry them a light brown color ; serve with lemon rind and gravy in a separate dish. Choice Fowl, Pudding. — Take a cold fowl and mince it, cutting it into small square pieces. Make a white sauce with a small piece of butter, some flour, and cream or milk. Put the mince into the white sauce, and set it aside to cool. When quite cold, make up into balls. Cover them with egg and bread crumbs ; do this twice, to prevent them from bursting. At dinner-time, fry them in hot lard or dripping ; serve them up on a serviette ; garnish with parsley. To Bone Fowls for Fricassees, Curries, AND Pies, — First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones, beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone; hold this with the fingers, and work the knife carefully all round it. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to require any instructions. To Roast a Fowl. — Having nicely dressed the fowl, have ready a dressing seasoned with pepper, salt, and summer savory; fill the body of the bird, sew up the opening, truss it nicely, oil it with butter, MEATS. 129 and put it before a moderately hot but bright fire ; heal the skia evenly as soon as possible, cover it with paper if there is the least danger of its browning too soon, roast pretty fast, without scorching, the first half hour, and baste the fowl all over every five minutes; after this let it roast steadily, but rather slowly, three-quarters of an hour, when, if young and tender, it will be done quite through. Stick a fork through the breast and thighs, and if the fluid which follows the fork is entirely free from blood, it is done. If not browned, replenish the fire, wet the fowl over with very little yelk of egg, dust it lightly with flour, and let it brown evenly all over. Remove the skewers and strings before sending it to the table. To Bake a Fowl, — Prepare a fowl as for roast- ing ; have the oven of good but not a raging heat. Lay the fowl on skewers ; baste every five minutes, and manage the same as the roast. If young, it will bake in one hour. To Roast a Tuekey. — Proceed as directed in roast fowls ; allow from two and a half to three hours for a good-sized tender turkey. The dress- ings of fowls can be varied by using oysters, etc. To Bake a Turkey. — Follow the directions for baking fowls, and allow from two to two and a half hours steady baking for a common-sized young turkey ; serve with a browned gravy. All roast fowls sliould be served with dressed vegetables, 130 . MEATS. currant, grape, or cranberry jelly, and a baked pudding or pie. Stuffing for a Turkey. — Take some bread crumbs and turn on just enough hot water to soften them ; put in a piece of butter, not melted, the size of a hen's egg, and a spoonful of pulverized sage, a teaspoonful of ground pej^per, and a teaspoonful of salt; there may be some of the bread crumbs that need to be chopped ; then mix thoroughly and stuff your turkey. Baked Turkey. — Let the turkey be picked, singed, and washed and wiped dry, inside and out ; joint only to the first joints in the legs, and cut some of the neck off if it is all bloody ; then cut one dozen small gashes in the fleshy parts of the turkey, on the outside and in different parts of the turkey, and press one whole oyster in each gash ; then close the skin and flesh over each oyster as tightly as possible ; then stuff your turkey, leaving a little room for the stuffing to swell. When stuffed sew it up with a stout cord, rub over lightly with flour, sprinkle a little salt and pepper on it, put some water in your dripping pan, put in your tur- key, baste it often with its own drippings ; bake to a nice brown ; thicken your gravy with a little flour and water. Be sure and keep the bottom of the dripping pan covered with water, or it will burn the gravy and make it bitter. Giblet Pie. — Wash and clean your giblets, put MEATS. 131 fcliem in a stewpan, season Avith pepper, salt, and a little butter rolled in flour, cover them with water, stew them till they are very tender. Line the sides of your pie-dish with paste, put in the giblets, and if the gravy is not quite thick enough, add a little more butter rolled in flour. Let it boil once, pour in the gravy, put on the top crust, leaving an open- ing in the centre of it in the form of a square ; ornament this with leaves of the paste. Set the pie in the oven, and when the crust is done take it out. To Fricassee Small Chickens. — Cut off the wings and legs of four chickens; separate the breasts from the backs ; divide the backs crosswise ; cut off the necks; clean the gizzards; put them with the livers and other parts of the chickens, after be- ing thoroughly washed, into a saucepan ; add salt, pepper, and a little mace ; cover with water, and stew till tender. Take them up ; thicken half a pint of water with two spoonfuls of flour rubbed into four ounces of butter ; add a tumbler of new milk ; boil all together a few minutes, then add eight spoonfuls of white wine, stirring it in care- fully, so as not to curdle ; put in the chickens, and shake the pan until they are sufficiently heated; then serve them up. To Broil Chickens without Burning. — Re- move occasionally from the fire and baste with a gravy prepared as follows : Simmer together one- half cup of vinegar, a piece of butter the size of 132 MEATS. an egg, and salt and pepper to the taste. Keep it hot to use. Chicken Pot-Pie. — Clean, singe, and joint a pair of chickens. Pare and slice eight white pota- toes ; wash the slices and put with the pieces of chicken into a stewpan lined with pie-crust ; season Avith salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and cover with water. Cover with paste, making a hole in the centre; cover the kettle, and either harig it over the fire or set it in the oven. If in the oven, turn occasionally to brown evenly. Two hours' cooking is sufficient. When done, cut the upper crust into moderate-sized pieces and place them on a large dish ; with a perforated ladle take up the potato and chicken, put it upon the crust ; cut the lower crust and put on the top. Serve the gravy hot in a gravy tureen. White Fricassee. — Boil a chicken; joint it; lay it in a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, a tablespoonful of flour, a little mace or nutmeg, white pepper, and salt. Add a pint of cream, and let it boil up once. Serve hot on toast. To Fry Cold Chicken, — Cut up the chicken, and take off* the skin, rub it with egg, cover it with seasoned bread crumbs and chopped parsley, ana fry in butter. Serve with brown gravy, thickened with flour and butter, and seasoned with Cayenne, mushroom catsup, and lemon pickle. Or, the chicken may be seasoned, and fried in plain butter. \ MEATS. 133 Chicken Baked in Rice. — Cut a chicken into joints, as for fricassee, season it well with pepper and salt, lay it in a pudding-dish lined with slices of ham or bacon, add a pint of veal gravy, and an onion finely minced; fill up the dish with boiled rice, well pressed, and piled as high as the dish will allow ; cover with a paste ; bake one hour, and serve. Chicken Puffs. — Mince up together the breast of a chicken, some lean ham, half an anchovy, a little parsley, some shalot, and lemon-peel, and season these with pepper, salt, Cayenne, and beaten mace. Let this be on the fire for a few minutes, in a little good white sauce. Cut some thinly-rolled- out pufF-paste into squares, putting on each some of the mince, turn tlie paste over, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them. These puffs are very good cold, and they form a convenient supper dish. To Boil a Goose. — After it is well dressed, singe it thoroughly. Have ready a dressing pre- pared of bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt and butter, with the addition of two finely-chopped onions, a little sage, and more pepper than would be used for turkey. Fill the body and close it firmly ; put it in cold water, and boil it gently an hour, if tender; if not longer; serve with giblet sauce. The onion can be omitted if not relished. 134 MEATS. TO COOK PARTRIDGES. In making partridges ready for roasting leave the heads on, and turn them under the left wings ; cut off the tops of the toes, but do not remove the legs ; before a proper fire, twenty minutes' roasting will be ample for young partridges. After being shot, these birds should not be kept longer than from two days to a week. The plumage is occasionally allowed to remain upon the heads of the red partridges, in which case the heads require to be wrapped in paper. To KoAST Partridges. — Rightly to look well there should be a leash (three birds) in the dish ; pluck, singe, draw, and truss them ; roast them for about twenty minutes ; baste them with butter, and when the gravy begins to run from them you may safely assume that the partridges are done; place them in a dish, together with bread crumbs, fried nicely brown and arranged in small heaps. Gravy should be served in a tureen apart. To Broil Partridges. — Split them in half; do not wash them, but wipe their insides with a cloth ; dip thera into liquid butter, then roll them in bread crumb^s; repeat this process; lay them inside downwards, upon a well-heated gridiron, turn them but once, and when done serve them with a piquante sauce. If you do not employ butter and bread crumbs, a little Cayenne and butter should be rubbed upon them before they are MEATS. 135 served. Cold roasted birds eat well if nicely broiled, and sent to table with a highly-seasoned sauce. Paeteidge Pie. — Two braces of partridges are required to make a handsome pie ; truss them as for boiling ; pound in a mortar the livers of the birds, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and some shred parsley; lay part of this forcemeat at the bottom of a raised crust put in the partridges, add the re- mainder of the forcemeat and a few mushrooms; put some slices of bacon fat on the top, cover with a lid of crust, and bake it for two hours and a half. Before serving the pie remove the lid, take out the bacon, and add sufficient rich gravy and orange juice. Partridge pie may also be made in a dish in the ordinary way. To Boil, Partridges. — Properly prepare the birds ; put them into plenty of boiling water ; do them quickly for fifteen minutes; make a rich sauce by adding an ounce of butter to half a pint of good thick cream; stir it one way over the fire till it is quite hot, and pour it into the dish with the partridges. To Stew Partridges. — Cut up the birds, after seeing that they are properly plucked, singed, etc. ; shake the following mixture over the fire until it boils ; an onion, sliced and pulled into rings, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a tablespoonful each of water, wine, and vinegar; put in the partridge; 136 MEATS. let it simmer very gently till done ; decorate the disli with small slices of toast; put into it the partridge, and pour the sauce over it. To Fey Partridges. — Take a brace of cold partridges that have been either roasted or braised ; cut them into quarters ; dip them into beaten and seasoned yelk of eggs ; make some butter or friture perfectly hot in a frying-pan ; put into it the birds, and do them over a moderately hot fire until they are beautifully browned. Quails Cured in Oil. — Procure a sufficient number of fine, plump quails. Pluck them, draw them, clean them thoroughly, cut them open so that they Avill lie flat, as for broiling, and rub them over with salt. Let them lie in the salt, turning them every morning, for three days. Let them dry ; and then pack them down close in a stone jar, covering each layer of quails tightly with fresh gathered vine leaves. Fill the jar with pure salad oil, and cover it securely with bladder, so as quite to exclude the air. When they are wanted, take them out and broil them. They make a delicious dish for breakfast. AVoOD(X)CK. — Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is considered a " bonne bouche ;" truss their legs close to the body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, close to the body, and tie them on a small bird spit ; put them to roast at a clear fire ; cut as many slices of bread as you have birds, MEATS. 137 t»ast or fry them a delicate brown, and lay them in the dripping-pan under the birds to catch the trail ; baste them with butter, and froth them with flour ; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on the toast ; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, and serve. Snipes differ little from woodcocks, unless in size ; they are to be dressed in the same way, but require about five minutes less time to roast them. • Wild Ducks. — For roasting a wild duck you must have a clear, brisk fire and a hot spit. It must be browned upon the outside without being sodden within. To have it well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen or twenty minutes will do it in the fashion- able way ; but if you like it a little more done allow it a few minutes longer ; if it is too much it will lose its flavor. To Keep Game. — If there be any danger of birds not keeping, pick and draw them, wash them well in water, and rub them with salt. Plunge them singly into a large saucepan of boiling water, draw them up and down by the legs to let the water pass through them. After they have been in the water for five minutes hang them up to dry in a cold place, sprinkle them with pepper and salt well inside. Before dressing them they must be again washed. By this means the most delicate birds may 138 MEATS. be preserved, with the exception of those which live bj suction, as they are never drawn ; but they may be kept a long time by putting lumps of charcoal, or placing a small quantity of mould in muslin bags in their insides. Venison Steaks. — Cut them from the neck; season them with pepper and salt. When the grid- iron has been well heated over a bed of bright coals, grease the bars and lay the steaks upon it. Broil them well, turning them once, and taking care to save as much of the gravy as possible. Serve them up with some currant jelly laid on each steak. Rabbit Pie. — Cut the rabbit into jo'nts. Take out the leg bones, which, with the head and breast bones well stewed, will make a good gravy. Put the joints of the rabbit into a pie-dish, with half a pound of salt pork in rashers, or a little ham or bacon, if preferred to the pork. Mix in a saucer a little flour, pepper and salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Sprinkle this mixture in, add half a pint of water, and cover with a suet, dripping, or butter crust, as you please. You may improve the pie by putting in forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs. Bake about an hour and a half; pour in the gravy you have made before serving. Roman Pie. — Boil a rabbit ; cut all the meat as thin as possible. Boil two ounces of macaroni very tender, two ounces of Parmesan or common cheese, grated, a little onion, chopped fine, pepper and salt MEATS. 139 to taste, not quite half a pint of cream. Line a mould, sprinkled with vermicelli, with a good paste. Bake an hour and serve it either with or without brown sauce. Cold chicken or cold game may be used for this pie instead of a rabbit. POTTED FISH AND MEATS. The preservation of potted meats is mainly due to the exclusion of the air by the vessels in which they are inclosed, and the layer of fat with which the meat is covered. For home purposes we should always recommend butter to be employed for this purpose, and hence the first operation necessary in potting is the purifi- cation of that substance. Butter, as ordinarily made, contains a considera- ble quantity of curdy matter, derived from the cream. This, after a time, turns rancid, even in spite of all the salt that may be added ; and consequently the length of time that butter will keep is limited. By removing the curd, butter will keep a very great length of time without change. The only method by which this can be done is by clarifying. In some parts of Switzerland they put the butter into earthenware glazed vessels, these are placed in large saucepans of water and heated very gently until the contents melt, the greatest care being taken not to overheat the butter, and as soon as it becomes liquid the vessels are allowed to cool with the slightest agitation. In this manner all the impurities are got 140 MEATS. rid of, some being lighter rise to the top, others, as the card, sink to the bottom. The pure butter so clarified will keep sweet for a long time, and it is in this condition that it should always be used in pot- ting. If butter is clarified in a saucepan over a fire, the curdy matter is certain to be overheated, and the whole mass becomes unpleasantly flavored. Clarified butter is better than suet or melted fat to pour over the top of the potted meats, as the suet in cooling cracks away from the pot and admits the air. This evil does not generally happen when butter is used. Having made these preliminary observations we will now give some receipts for potting meats, premising that small pots should generally be used for two reasons — firstly, the cov- ering of butter is less likely to crack wdien small pots are used than when large ones are employed ; and secondly, the contents are sooner eaten when opened, so that there is less chance of their being spoiled by exposure to the air. Any kind of meat — as beef, tongue, ham, chicken, etc., — may be potted if first baked or stewed until tender, and the fleshy parts pounded in a mortar with salt, such spices as may be approved, and a proportion of clarified butter. It should then be pressed firmly into the pots, melted clarified butter poured over it, and the pot tied down when cold In most cookery books a marble mortar is recom- mended. This is a mistake. There cannot be a much worse material used for mortars than marble. MEATS. 141 It is soft, and, what is still worse, readily absorbeni; of grease and flavors, so after having been used for one substance, if high flavored, cannot be safely used for another. A good wedgewood-ware mortar, such as used by chemists, is the cheapest and best that can be employed. Many potted articles require special treatment, the directions for which we subjoin : Potted Salmon. — Split a salmon down the back, and divide it into two pieces, removing the back- bone, head, and tail. Wipe the two sides with a clean napkin, but do not wash them. Salt them slightly, and let them drain. Put the drained pieces into a baking pan, after having well rubbed them all over with a mixture of powdered cloves and mace and four or five bay leaves and some whole pepper. Cover the fish with cold clarified butter, and the pan with strong paper. AVhen baked take the salmon out and let it drain from the gravy. Take off the skin and put the fish into the pots. Sprinkle the upper surface of the potted salmon with a little spice, and pour clarified butter over it when cold ; then close the pots. Potted Lobster. — Boil the lobsters yourself. Choose hens in preference, on account of the spawn. When the lobsters are cold pick out all the parts that are eatable. Beat the flesh in a mortar, season- ing it with salt and a mixture of pepper, mace, and nutmeg, finely powdered. As you beat and mix it. 142 MEATS. incorporate with the paste a small quantity of clari-i fied butter. Press the meat strongly into the pot- ting pots, and pour over it hot clarified butter. Lob- sters may also be potted by putting into the pots lumps of the meat, and pounding only the spawn, and filling up with clarified butter. Potted Rabbit. — Take off the legs and shoul- ders of the rabbits, also the fleshy parts of the back. Cut off the leg bones at the first joint, and the shoulder bones at the blades, but without cutting off the meat. Take also the livers, season these limbs and livers, put plenty of butter over them, and bake them gently; then stow them lightly into pots, covering them with clarified butter. The remainder of the rabbits may serve for any other purpose in the culinary arrangements of the day. Potted Pigeons. — Clean them well, bone them, season them in the usual manner, and lay them very close in a baking-pan. Cover them with butter, tie very thick paper over them, and put the pan into the oven. When cold put them, closely packed side by side, into pots that will hold three each, and cover them with clarified butter. Potted Birds. — Bake them in a pan under a crust, with plenty of seasoning and butter. When they are cold put as many in a pot as can be forced in side by side, and cover them with clarified butter. To Pot Veal. — Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal, or it may be done as follows : Season MEATS. 143 a large slice of the fillet before it is dressed with some mace, pepper-corns, and two or three cloves ; lay it close into a potting-pan that will just hold it, fill it up with water, and bake it three hours. Then pound it quite small in a mortar, and salt to taste; put a little gravy that was baked to it in pounding, if to be eaten soon, otherwise only a little butter just melted; when done, cover it over with butter. Potted Calves' Feet. — Boil the feet for five hours; flavor half a pint of the jelley in which they are boiled with nutmeg, garlic, and pounded ham, and let them simmer together for a few minutes; cut up the feet into small piecas and season them ; dip a mould into cold water, and put in the meat, mixed with a little grated lemon-peel and minced parsley. Some persons add beet-root, baked or- boiled, cut in slices and mixed with the meat, when this is arranged in the mould, fill up with the flavored jelley. Turn out when quite cold. The remainder of the jelly in which the feet were boiled can be used as a sweet jelly. Potted Veal and Bacon. — Cut equal quanti- ties of veal and bacon into thin slices. Rub together some dried sweet-basil or summer-savory, very fine; lay in a stewpan a layer of bacon and a layer of veal, and on these sprinkle the powdered herbs, a little grated horseradish, pepper and salt. Put layers in the same order, seasoned, till all the meat 10 144 MEATS. is iu the pan. Squeeze over all the juice of a lemon, and grate on it the yellow rind. Cover very tightly and hake for three hours in a moderate oven, then take out and drain off all the gravy. Shake over the meat a little catsup, press under heavy weights for three hours, and put away in a tightly covered pot. CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. VEGETABLES. Vegetables should be carefully cleaned from insects and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty of water, and drain them the moment they are done enough. If over-boiled they will lose their beauty and crispness. Bad cooks sometimes dress them with meat, which is wrong, except carrots or cabbage with boiling beef. In order to boil vegetables of a good green color, take care that the water boils when they are put in. Make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but watch them, and if the water has not slackened you may be sure they are done when they begin to sink. Then take them out immediately, or the color will change. Hard water, especially if chaly- beate, spoils the color of such vegetables as should be green. To boil them green in hard water, put a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda or potash into the water when it boils, before the vegetables are put in. To Boil Potatoes. — Pare or merely wash them, as preferred, and put them in a covered saucepan 145 146 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. of cold water, with a teaspoonful of salt ; boll tliera till they are done (which can be ascertained by running a fork into them) and begin to break a little ; then pour the water from them, and hold the saucepan with the lid off, over the fire for two or three minutes, shaking well at the end of the time ; put the lid loosely on so as to allow the steam to escape, and sprinkle a very little salt over them ; let them stand till wanted (the sooner the better), but they may remain in this way, if necessary, half an hour or more. Time, twenty to thirty minutes, or longer if very large. To Broil Potatoes. — Parboil, then slice and broil them. Or, parboil, and then set them whole on the gridiron over a very slow fire, and when thoroughly done send them up with their skins on. This last way is practised in many Irish families. Potato Chips. — Wash and peel some potatoes, then pare them, ribbon-like, into long lengths; put them into cold water to remove the strong potato flavor; drain them, and throw them into a pan with a little butter, and fry them a light brown. Take them out of the pan, and place them close to the fire on a sieve, lined with clean writing-paper, to dry, before they are served up. A little salt may be sprinkled over them. Steamed Potatoes. — Either peel them or not, according to their quality, but any rate wash them VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 147 thoroughly ; put them into a steamer, cover them down closely, and place them over a saucepan of boiling water. Endeavor not to lift the lid until you have reason to suppose the potatoes are done. Unless of a very small size, potatoes usually require forty minutes or an hour's steaming. Baked Potatoes. — Potatoes are either baked in their jackets or peeled ; in either case they should not be exposed to a fierce heat, which is wasteful, inasmuch as thereby a great deal of the vegetable is scorched and rendered uneatable. They should be frequently turned while being baked, and kept from touching each other in the oven or dish. When done in their skins be particular to wash and brush them before baking them. If convenient, they may be baked in wood-ashes, or in a Dutch oven in front of the fire; serve them in damask napkin. When pared they should be baked in a dish, and fat of some kind added to j)revent their outsides from becoming burnt ; they are ordinarily baked thus as an accessory to baked meat, Pommes de Terre a la Danoies. — Peel six good large mealy potatoes, cut them into rather thin slices, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water, do them quickly until they are tender enough to mash ; strain off the water and mash them smooth with a spoon, add some fresh butter or oil, salt^ pepper, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, together with two new-laid eggs. Stir all well, 148 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. heat some very good butter or salad oil in a frying- pan, place in it spoonfuls of the potato, turn them as they become brown, drain them from fat, and serve very hot. When preferred, spoonfuls may be arranged upon a buttered dish and baked. Potato Surprise. — Take some good-sized cold, boiled potatoes, cut a piece from the end of each, and M'ith a round-topped knife remove a good deal of the inside of the potatoes; fill them with oysters, bearded, chopped, peppered, and mixed with raw egg ; replace the tops upon the potatoes, moistening the edges with raw egg to make them adhere together, and place the potatoes in a slack oven, while you prepare a batter, into which dip them, and afterwards fry them in lard ; when very nicely browned serve hot. Some pickled sauce may take the place of the oysters, if more convenient, or a few bread crumbs soaked in beaten egg. MiROTON OF Potatoes. — Peel and nicely steam eight good mealy potatoes ; when done, mash them and season them with pepper; chop up one medium- sized onion and the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs, fry them in plenty of oil or butter ; when the onion is quite tender drain it and the eggs from all fat, add them to the mashed potato, mix with them two raw eggs, and a dessertspoonful of catsup ; place all together in a mould buttered and sprinkled with bread cr.umbs ; bake for half an hour, and turn out of the mould to serve. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 149 Potatoes Mashed and Fried. — What are called mashed potatoes should, to be properly made, be passed through the hair sieve, and then stirred up in a saucepan with milk, butter, and salt ; by this process you avoid coming upon pieces of hard potato. Another simpler mode is to pass the potatoes through the sieve, and, before they have time to cool, put them into a vegetable dish, with a lump of butter under them, keeping them, hot till the time of serving. With some dishes fried potatoes are de rigueur. To fry them well you must attend to the following points : Plenty of fat. Wait till the fat is very hot •before you throw them in. Let them be thoroughly dry, for, if at all damp, they will never be crisp. When they have got a fine golden tinge, take them out and lay them on a piece of blotting paper before the fire, giving them a good sprinkling of salt. Do not attempt to fry boiled potatoes ; they must be raw, and you can cut them either in dices the thickness of a shilling, or in pieces about the size of a French Bean and the length of the potato. Boiled potatoes can be warmed up by frying, and one very good way is to fry some shalots or onions, and, when they begin to take color, throw in the potatoes, any how, and keep turning them until warm. Cold mashed potatoes make excellent little side 150 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. dishes, the simplest of which is this : Stir an egg or two with your potatoes ; add a few finely-pow- dered spices, pepper and salt to taste, and some minced parsley; mix well, and roll the mixture into balls, or any shape you like; cover with fine, bread crumbs, fry a nice golden color, and serve garnished with fried parsley. This dish can be varied ad infinitum, by either inserting in the mid- dle of each ball, or incorporating with the mixture, any of the following : The flesh of fowls or game, any kind of fish, lobsters, crabs, etc., all finely minced. If you have some very rich stock, moisten the minced meat or fish with it, and your dish will be improved ; only, in that case, you must put a small portion of the mixture in each ball, and not mix it up with the potatoes. The above combina- tions can be erected into a more imposing dish by placing the minced fish or meat in a pie-dish, and covering over with potatoes, then baking until the top is of the desired color ; in this case, however, a regular ragout should be made for the animal part of the dish, and the potatoes only play second fiddle. A favorite way of dressing potatoes is this : Cut them up into quarters ; rub a saucepan with a piece of garlic, put into it a goodly piece of butter, and when it is melted throw in your potatoes ; add a very little water, pepper and salt, and a small quantity, of grated nutmeg; let the whole simmer till done, and, before serving, add some minced VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 151 parsley and a little lemon-juice. Cooked in this way they can be eaten as a separate dish. Boiled potatoes cut up into quarters, and with a white sauce, with minced parsley put over them, make a very nice dish. A delicious way of eating new potatoes is to put them into a saucepan with plenty of butter; toss them about till done, sprinkling with salt, and serving very hot. With potatoes a most excellent good, swefit dish can be made. It is made thus : Boil and pass through a hair sieve three or four potatoes; stir to them powdered sugar and the yelks of two eggs ; add a few drops of essence of vanilla, or any other essence ; beat up the whites of the two eggs into a froth, mix quickly and thoroughly with the pud- ding, pour into a shape (previously buttered and bread-crumbed) and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes or less. This will be found a very effective dish. The only difficulty about it is the timing of the cooking thereof, as it requires to be taken up to table as soon as it is done, and the cook must know her company well to be able to judge how long they will take over the previous dishes. The preparing of this dish is very good practice for making souffles; and, in fact, if less potatoes are used and more eggs, you produce, with- out knowing it, a sowffli of pommes de terre, as it is called. Potato Rolls. — Wash some potatoes of a me- 152 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. dium size, pare them, and cut them in the form of small rolls of about three inches in length and an inch and a half across ; dip them into beaten egg, have some thin slices of fat bacon large enough to envelop a potato ; wrap one in each rasher, arrange them in a small baking dish, put them into a mode- rately hot oven, and bake them until the potatoes are done ; rasp a little toast upon them, and serve them directly. Stewed Potatoes. — Cut into slices four cold potatoes that have either been boiled or steamed ; season them, dredge them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with some fresh butter or olive oil ; fry them slightly on both sides for five minutes, drain off the fat, pour upon them half a pint of good gravy nicely flavored, and let them stew by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Serve to- gether with the sauce in which they were stewed. Beowned Potatoes. — Steam or boil some rather small-sized potatoes, peel them, and throw them into a stewpan of boiling butter ; shake them occa- sionally, and when done and well browned, serve them upon a thin slice of toast which has been dipped into either essence of anchovy, or catsup. Potato Fkitters. — Take seventeen large-sized Mercer potatoes, grate them finely ; when all are grated, add three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of flour, and one tablespoonful of salt ; mix it well. Drop into hot lard or butter and bake until done. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 153 New Potatoes — To Boil. — Procure them of equal size, and if very young, wash them only ; if older, rub off the skins with a scrubbing-brush or coarse cloth. Put them into boiling water till ten- der, and sprinkle a little salt over them, and put a lump of butter in ; shake up and serve. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Potato Salad is made with vinegar in the fol- lowing manner, viz. : Boil your potatoes, (select the smallest,) and, as soon as they are done, peel them as quick as you can ; cut them in small slices, and after seasoning them with salt and pepper, pour over them (while hot) five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar to about one quart of potatoes, and turn them thoroughly. Cut a large onion very fine and put it in, still turning. Half an hour after, add three or four tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and after turning again, serve. Potato Patties. — Butter some small patty-pans ; ' strew bread crumbs over the insides and fill them with some nicely-mashed potatoes, flavored with either mushroom catsup, grated lemon-peel, or sav- ory herbs, chopped fine; add sufficient lard or fresh butter, and sift more bread crumbs on the tops ; place them in an oven till properly browned, lift them out of the patty-pans to serve. Potato Scones. — Mash boiled potatoes till they are quite smooth, adding a little salt; then knead out with flour, to the thickness required; toast, 1 54 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. pricking them with a fork to prevent them blister- ing. AVhen eaten with fresh butter, they are very nutritious. Potatoes in Meat, Puddings, and Pies. — • The introduction of a potato or two into family pud- dings is a generally acknowledged improvement, inasmuch as the farinaceous nature of the potato causes it to absorb fat, and thereby act as a correc- tive to the over richness of most meat pies and pud- dings. Potatoes are especially of advantage with beef or mutton, one or two to an ordinary sized pasty being sufficient. Roasted Potatoes. — Wash some good sized potatoes and boil them for ten minutes. Take them up and peel them, well butter them outside, sprinkle some salt and pepper upon them, and dredge them with a little flour ; arrange them in an oven and roast them before the fire, turning them as they require it. When thoroughly brown serve in a hot dish. \ Jury Pie. — Steam or boil some mealy potatoes, mash them together with some butter or cream, season them, and place a layer at the bottom of the pie-dish, upon this place a layer of finely chopped cold meat or fish of any kind, well seasoned, then add another layer of potatoes, and continue alternat- ing these with more chopped meat until the dish be filled. Smooth down the top, strew bread crumba upon it, and bake until it is well browned. A very VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 155 small quantity of meat serves in this manner to make a nice presentable little dish. A sprinkling of chopped pickles may be added if handy, and when iish is employed it eats better if first beaten up with raw egg. Some dressed spinach, tomatoes, aspara- gus tops, etc., may be made use of in place of the meat, if convenient, but the potatoes should pre- dominate three-fourths more than the other ingre- dient introduced. Potato Croquettes, a Sweet Dish. — Take some nicely baked potatoes, scoop out the mealy part, and mash it thoroughly smooth ; press it through a sieve, make it into stiff paste with some cream, butter, orange flower water, powdered loaf- sugar, and raw eggs well beaten. Make it into cro- quettes by rolling portions in sifted bread crumbs, and dipping them in white of egg whipped to a snow. Fry them in plenty of lard or fresh butter. Potato Pone. — This is a favorite dish in the West India Islands. Wash, peel, and grate two pounds of potatoes, add four ounces each of sugar and butter (or beef dripping), melted, one teaspoon- ful each of salt and pepper, mix well together, place it in a baking-dish, and put it into a brisk oven until it is done and becomes nicely browned. Stuffed Potatoes. — Take five large potatoes, wash and peel them, and scoop them out, so as to have them hollow from end to end ; fill the holes with sausage or forcemeat, dip the potatoes into dis- 156 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. solved butter, and arrange thera in a baking-dish. Put them into a moderately hot oven for about tliirty or forty minutes. Serve directly after they are done. They may be accompanied by a sauce or not, accord- ing to choice. PoMMES DE Teree EN Pyramide — Either steam or boil some very good mealy potatoes, mash them and put them into a stewpan, together with some butter, a little salt, and milk. As the mixture be- comes stiff add more milk, but let it be of the desired consistency to arrange it in the form of a pyramid in a buttered dish. Place it in a hot oven, or brown with a salamander, and serve. Potatoes Fried with Batter. — Nicely wash and pare some floury potatoes. Cut each into any form you fancy, such as a large lozenge, etc., then thinly slice' them, so that the pieces may" be of a uni- form shape. Dip them into either a sweet or savory batter, fry them in plenty of butter, and serve them quite hot, with either salt or pounded loaf-sugar strewn upon them. Potatoes a la Creme. — Put into a saucepan about two ounces of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour, some parsley, chopped small, salt, and pepper. Stir them up together, add a wineglassful of cream, and set it on the fire, stirring continually until it boils. Cut some boiled potatoes into slices and put them into the saucepan with the mixture^ boil all together, and serve them very hot. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 157 French Mashed Potatoes. — After well boil- ing some potatoes in their jackets peel, and mash them with a fork. Put them into a stewpan with some butter and salt, moisten them with fresh cream, and let them grow dry while stirring them over the fire ; add more cream, and so continue for nearly an hour. Dish them, and brown them on the top with a salamander. Serve directly. Savory Potato Cakes. — Quarter of a pound of gmted ham, one pound of mashed potatoes, and a little suet, mixed with the yelks of two eggs, pep- per, salt, and nutmeg. Roll it into little balls or cakes, and fry it a light brown. Sweet herbs may be used in the place of ham. Plain potato cakes are made with potatoes and eggs only. CAULIFLOWER. One of the prettiest dishes of vegetables we know consists of a cauliflower of ivory whiteness resting upon a bed of well made tomato sauce. To insure the immaculate appearance of the cauliflower, a moderate quantity of flour should be put in the water it is boiled in, and the cauliflower should only be put in \Yhen the water is boiling fast. When two or more cauliflowers are used, they should be moulded into one to serve them. To do this, when they are boiled, cut off the stalk, and dispose the pieces of cauliflower head downwards in a basin ; press them gently together, turn them out dexterously on a dish, and two or three small cauliflowers will by 158 VEGETABLES AXD SALADS. this means present the appearance of one large one. Care must be taken to have the basin quite hot and to operate quickly. This cannot very well be done with the small purple cauliflower or brocoli ; but all the formulas given for cauliflowers proper may be applied to brocoli likewise. The sauce should be put into the dish and the cauliflowers over it ; but if the moulding process has not been successful, or if the cauliflowers are not very nice looking ones, then pour the sauce over them, so as to hide their deformity. The very best way, however, to treat cauliflowers is au gralin, and this has the advantage that it may be applied to the remains of the cauliflowers served at the dinner of the day before. This is the simplest form of it : Dispose the pieces of cauliflowers on a dish, pour a good supply of liquified butter over them, and plenty of grated cheese, with a judicious admixture of powdered white pepper, salt, and nut- meg. Put the dish into the oven for a few minutes, or brown with a red-hot salamander, and serve. Here are other modes of proceeding : Rub the dish very slightly with garlic, mould your cauli- flowers in a basin, and pour into them, before turn- ing them out, some melted butter, into which you have dissolved a good allowance of cheese; turn them out on the dish, strew plentifully with grated cheese, a few bread crumbs, pepper, and salt, pour- ing the remainder of the sauce over. Brown and serve. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 159 Instead of moulding the cauliflowers, dip each piece in the sauce, and dispose them flat on the dish, filling up the interstices with bread crumbs and cheese in equal parts; pepper and salt accord- ing to taste ; brown and serve. The great thing to be avoided is not to make these preparations too dry, and yet there should not be over much butter. The browning must be carefully done, so as to produce a surface of a uniform golden color — not in patches, some burnt black, and others not browned at all, as is too often the case in the preparations of the careless and hasty operators who preside in kitchens. To such people as may object to cheese, I can recommend the following receipt, which has great merit of its own : Dispose your pieces of boiled cau- liflower upon a dish well rubbed with garlic, over them strew a mixture of bread crumbs and ancho- vies, capers, and olives, mixed fine pepper, and salt ; over all pour a judicious quantity of fine salad oil. Bake for about ten minutes, and serve. Celery may be dressed according to the above formulas also; but we prefer treating the latter in the same way as asparagus, which it emulates in delicacy of flavor — i. e., by plain boiling in salt and water, and serving with some simple sauce. Boiled Cauliflower. — Soak the head two hours in salt water, and cook until tender in milk and water ; drain and serve whole with drawn but- ter. This makes the best appearance, but it will be 11 IGO VEGETABLES AND SALADfi. found to suit the taste better cut up and seasoned richly with butter and a little salt and pepper. In either case it must be well drained. Cauliflower Omelette. — After boiling a firm head of cauliflower allow it to grow cold, chop it very fine, mix it with sufficient well beaten egg to make a very thick batter. Fry brown in fresh butter, and serve hot. Cauliflower in Milk. — Choose those that are close and white, cut oft' the green leaves, and look carefully that there are no caterpillars about the stalk ; soak an hour in cold water, with a handful of salt in it ; then boil them in milk and water, and take care to skim the saucepan, that not the least foulness may fall on the flower. It must be served very white and rather crimp. Fried Cauliflower. — Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an hour, put it into a pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted (milk and water will be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, or till the large stalk is per- fectly tender. Then divide it equally into small tufts, and spread it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient quantity of batter made in the proportion of a tablespoonful of flour, and two tablespoonfuls of milk to each egg. Beat the eggs very light ; then stir into them the flour and milk alternately ; a spoonful of flour, and one of milk and eggs ; season with pepper and salt. Dip the cold e:udi- VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 161 flower into the batter, and fry each piece in butter and lard until brown. Corn Balls. — Grate five eara of partly dried corn, and powder it in a mortar. Roll the powder into small balls and boil them twenty minutes. Take them out of the water; cool them; mash them with some crushed white sugar and two eggs. Form again in balls and fry in boiling lard and butter. Sprinkle them with finely powdered sugar, and serve hot. Corn Oysters. — Grate the corn. To every pint, take three well beaten eggs, and sufficient flour to bind the mixture together. Season with salt, form in the shape of oysters, and fry brown in butter and lard. Corn in Cans. — Dissolve one ounce and a quarter of tartaric acid in half a pint of water. Cut the corn from the cob, and add sufficient water to cook it properly. When cooked, add two table- spoonfuls of the acid solution to every quart of corn. Can it immediately ; seal securely, and put it away in a cool, but not damp place. When wanted for use, stir half a teaspoonlul of soda through two quarts of corn, and let it stand three or four hours before cooking. This will remove all the acid taste, and render the corn as fresh as when cooked in the summer. Corn Porridge. — Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. Measure it, and to each Iij2 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of milk. Put the corn and milk into a pot, stir them well together, and boil them till the corn is perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh butter dredged with flour, and let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in at the last some beaten yelk of egg, and in three minutes remove it from the fire. Take up the porridge, and send it to table hot, and stir some fresh butter into it. You may add sugar and nutmeg. Succotash. — If old beans are used, they must be soaked over night, and parboiled in two waters before putting in the pork. The corn should be added to the beans and pork about fifteen minutes before the hour for serving the dinner. It is well to boil the cobs with the beans and pork in the last water. Remove them before adding the corn. For using beans not fully ripe, one change of water is sufficient ; the pork can be parboiled at the same time. Beans for succotash should remain whole; care must be taken that they boil gently, so as not to break them. Considerable water is generally used in boiling the beans, that no more need be added when the corn is put in ; most persons like considerable soup in this dish. Families can be governed by taste in this. Dish the corn and beans in a deep dish with the froth, and season with butter and a very little salt: use no pep- per; if any person desires it, it is easily added. Serve the pork on a platter, after taking off the VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 163 skin and dotting it with pepper, by dipping the little finger in ground pepper and pressing it on the pork. Green Corn Dumplings. — A quart of young corn grated from the cob, half a pint of wheat flour sifted, half a pint of milk, six tablespoonfuls of butter, two eggs, a saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and butter for frying. Having grated as fine as possible sufficient young fresh corn to make a quart, mix with it the wheat flour, and add the salt and pepper. Warm the milk in a small saucepan, and soften the butter in it. Then add them gradually to the pan of corn stirring very hard, and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs light, and stir them into the mixture when it has cooled. Flour your hands and make it into little dumplings. Put into a frying-pan a sufficiency of fresh butter (or lard and butter, in equal proportions), and when it is boiling hot, and has been skimmed, put in the dumplings, and fry them ten minutes or more, in proportion to their thickness. Then drain them, and send them hot to the dinner table. Corn Fritters. — One dozen ears of young corn grated ; one pint of new milk or rich cream, two eggs, a little salt and flour sufficient for a stiif batter. Fry brown in butter and lard. Broiled Tomatoes. — Wash and wipe the tomatoes, and put them on the gridiron stem down. Set the sridiron over a clear fire. When brown on 164 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. one side, tn:-!i them; let them cook through. Pepper, salt, and serve on a hot dish, with a small piece of butter on each tomato. Tomato Fritters. — Take one quart of stewed tomatoes, stir in one egg, one small teaspoonful of saleratus or soda, and flour enough to make it the consistency of jiancakes. Browned Tomatoes. — Take large round toma- ^ toes and halve them ; "place them, the skin side down, in a frying-pan in which a very small quantity of butter or lard has been previously melted ; sprinkle them with salt and pepper and dredge them well with flour ; place the pan on a hot part of the fire, and let them broivn thoroughly ; tlien stir them and let them brown again, and so on until they are quite done. They lose their acidity, and the flavor is superior to stewed to- matoes. Tomato Soup. — Wash, scrape, and cut- small tlie red part of three large carrots', three heads of celery, four large onions, and two large turnips; put them into a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter and half a pound of lean new ham ; let them stew very gently for an hour ; then add three quarts of browa gravy soup and some whole black pepper, with eight or ten ripe tomatoes ; let it boil an hour and a half, and pulp it through a sieve ; serve it with fried bread cut in dice. Tomato Toast. — Remove the stem and all the vegetabt.es and salads. 165 Beeds from the tomatoes ; they must be ripe — ^but not over ripe; steAv them to a pulp, season with butter, pepper and salt ; toast some bread, butter it, and then spread the tomato on each side, and send it up to table two slices on each dish, the slices cut in two, and the person who helps it must serve with two half slices, not attempt to lift the top slice, otherwise the appearance of the under slice will be destroyed. To Bake Tomatoes. — Season them with salt and pepper ; flour them over, put them in a deep plate with a little butter, and bake in a stove. Breakfast Tomatoes. — Tliis is a nice break- fast dish ; prepare the tomatoes, and stew them. Toast a slice of light bread for each member of the family, and spread the stewed tomatoes evenly on each slice. If any is left, pour it over the whole ; serve immetliately. Chinese Rice. — The process of boiling one pound of rice is as follows: Take a clean stew- pan, with a close-fitting top, then take a clean piece of white muslin, large enough to cover over the top of the pan and hang down inside nearly to, but not in contact with, the bottom. Into the sack so formed place the rice, pour over it two cupfuls of water, and put on the top of the stewpan, so as to hold up the muslin bag inside, and fit tight all round. Place the pan on a slow fire, and the steam generated from the water will cook the rice. Each 166 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. grain, it is stated, will come out of the boiler as dry and distinct as if just taken from the hull. More water may be poured into the pan if necessary, but only sufficient to keep up the steam till the rice is cooked. The pan nuist not be heated so hot as to cause the steam to blow off the lid. Carolina Rice. — Pick the rice carefully, and wash it through two or three cold waters till it is quite clean. Then (having drained off all the water through a colander) put the rice into a pot of boil- ing water, with a very little salt, allowing as much as a quart of water to half a pint of rice ; boil it twenty minutes or more. Then pour off the water, draining the rice as dry as possible. Lastly, set it on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam may not condense upon it and render the rice watery. Keep it dry thus for a quarter of an hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it up from the bottom with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains may appear to stand alone. Rice and Milk. — To every quart of good milk allow two ounces of rice ; wash it well in several waters ; put it with the milk into a closely-covered saucepan, and set it over a slow fire ; when it boils, take it off; let it stand till it is cold, and simmer it about an hour and a quarter before sending it to table, and serve it in a tureen. String Beans for Winter Use. — String them and cut them in small pieces as if for boiling ; put VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 167 them raw in stone jars, in alternate layers, with coarse table salt, each layer about one inch in thick ness, leaving a layer of salt at the top, tying paper over the whole. During the winter use the beans, (boiling and seasoning them in the ordinary way, after soaking them in cold water for twelve hours,; and they prove quite equal to the best beans cooked fresh from the vine. The appearance and flavor are precisely the same. To Cook Beans in a French Style. — Choose small young beans, and strip oif the ends and stalks, throwing them, as prepared, into a dish full of cold spring water, and, when all are finished, wash and drain them well. Boil them in salted boiling water, in a large saucepan, and drain them, after which put them into an enamelled stewpan, and shake them over the fire until they are quite hot and dry; then add about three ounces of fresh butter, and a tablespoonful of veal or chicken broth ; the butter must be broken up into small lumps. Season with white pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon strained. Stir them well over a hot fire for five minutes, and serve them in a vegetable dish very hot. String Beans. — Gather them while young enough to break crispy ; break of both ends, and string them ; breark in halves, and boil in water with a little salt, until tender ; drain free from water, and season with butter. 168 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Boiled Beans. — Soak over night any small white beans in soft water, put them in a strong bag, leaving room to swell ; let them boil in a potful of water until done; hang them up to let all the water drain off, and season with butter, pepper, and salt, to the taste. Parsnips require a good deal of boiling. When young wipe off the skin after they are boiled ; when old boil them with salt meat, and scrape them first. (Parsnips should always be scraped.) Average time, from twenty to forty-five minutes. Broiled Parsnips. — After they are boiled ten- der let them become perfectly cold. Slice thin lengthwise, and broil until nicely browned ; spread them with butter, and season with pepper and salt. To be served with roast, broiled, or fried meats. Parsnip Cutlet. — Slice boiled parsnips length- wise, and brown them in lard, after rubbing them with pepper and salt. When browned on both sides, dip one side in batter made of egg and flour, let them brown, not burn, then dip the other side, and brown in the same manner ; spread over them a lit- tle butter, or not, as desired. Serve with roasts, etc. Parsnip Fritters, No. 1. — Boil and peel two large parsnips, scrape tliem to a fine pulp, beat them up with the whites of two and the* yelks of four eggs, t\vo spoonfuls of cream, half a glass of sherry, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat all together for nearly VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 169 half a^a hour until the batter becomes light. Fry them well covered with lard, aud serve with lemon or orange-juice and sugar, or with sweet or wine sauce. Parsnip Fritters, No. 2, — Boil the parsnips, in salted water, so as to flavor them through. Make a light batter, cut them round, and dip them in the batter. Have ready hot lard, take them up with a a tablespoon, and drop them in while the lard is boiling. When they rise to the surface turn them ; when browned on both sides take them out. Let them drain, and set them in the oven to keep hot. Serve with broiled, fried, or roast meats or fowls. Fricassee of Parsnips. — Boil in milk till they are soft, then cut them lengthwise into bits two or three inches long, and simmer in a white sauce made of two spoonfuls of broth, a bit of mace, half a cupful of cream, a bit of butter, and some flour, pepper and salt. Fried Plantains or Bananas. — Buy some sweet plantains, or bananas. If not thoroughly ripe, hang them up in the room to ripen. Take off the skins, cut in slices, and fry in hot lard until browned. The long, green, hard, plantains are peele-d and roasted in the ashes, when it closely resembles bread. It is also cut in slices and fried a nice brown in hot lard. They are also boiled in soups, stews, hashes, etc. Vegetables and Sauces. — Potatoes are good 170 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. with all meats. With fowls they are nicest mashed. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens, and cabbage are eaten with boiled meat ; and beets, peas, and beans are appropriate to either boiled or roasted meat. Mashed turnip is good with roasted pork. To- matoes are good with every kind of meat, but especially so with roast ; apple sauce with roast pork ; cranberry sauce with beef, fowls, veal, and ham. Currant jelly is used by many persons with roast mutton. Pickles are good with all roast meats, and capers or nasturtiums with boiled lamb or mut- ton. Horseradish and lemons are excellent with veal. CarJiots. — Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. An hour is enough for young spring carrots. Grown carrots must be cut in half, and will take from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. When done rub oif the peels with a clean, coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size. The best way to try if they are done enough is to pierce them with a fork. Carrot Fritters. — These very nice fritters are simply made, and we can recommend them as being an agreeable variety for a side dish at a small party. Beat two small boiled carrots to a pulp with a spoon, add three or four eggs, and half a handful of flour. Moisten with cream, milk, or a little white wine, and sweeten to taste ; beat all well together, and fry them in boiling lard. When of good color take VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 171 them off and serve, having squeezed over them the juice of an orange, and strewed them over with finely sifted sugar. Parsley and Butter. — Wash and tie up a bunch of parsley. Put it in boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes. Drain it, cut off the stalks, and chop the leaves very fine. Put it into the melted butter, which may be made by smoothly mixing a tablespoonful of flour with half a pint of water and two ounces of butter. Stir all one way ; let it boil about two minutes. Fried Artichokes. — Cut the artichokes into six or eight pieces, according to their size, remove the choke and the large leaves which will not become tender, and trim off the tops of the remainder of the leaves with a pair of scissors. Wash them in sev- eral waters, drain them, and dip them in a batter made with flour, a little cream, and the yelk of an egg. Let the artichokes be well covered with the batter, and fry them in lard. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve them on a bed of parsley. fried in the lard which remains in the pan. Summer Squashes. — When these vegetables are fresh, the rind will be crisp when cut by the nail. If very young and tender they may be boiled whole, if not pare them. Extract the seeds and strings, cut them small, put them in a stewpan with water enough just to cover them, add one teaspoonful of salt to each common sized squash, boil them till the 172 VEGETABLES A>CD SALADS. pieces break, half an hour is generally enougli, and then press them through a colander with a skim- mer. Mix them with butter to your taste, and a little salt if necessary. Stewed Spinach. — Pick the spinach very clean, and wash thoroughly through several waters. Drain it and put it in a saucepan with only the water that clings to it. Add salt and pepper and stew for twenty minutes, or till quite tender. Turn it often while stewing and press it down with a wooden spoon or ladle. When done, drain and press as dry as possible; chop it up fine; set it again over the fire; add to it some pieces of butter rolled in flour, and the beaten yelks of two eggs. Simmer five minutes, and take it off without allowing it to boil. Serve upon thin slices of well-buttered toast cut in small squares. Spinach to Boil. — Spinach requires a great deal of water to free it ft-om the grit in which it is covered from its low growth. The stalks should be broken off, and the spinach washed well with the hand. Put it into a saucepan with a little salt. A very large quantity of uncooked spinach is needed to make a dish, as it wastes considerably in cooking. Boil it for about twelve niinutes, pressing it down when quite tender. Drain it thoroughly and squeeze out tlie water. Chop it quite small. Put it into a fresh saucepan with some butter, and stir it till it is hot. Spinach is frequently dished around minced VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 173 meats; it is also sometimes served with poached eggs upon it. Boiled Onions. — Take the outside skin from white onions as uniform in size as possible, lay them in cold salt and water one hour, boil them in milk and water until thoroughly tender ; lay them in a deep dish, and pour over them melted butter. Buttered Onions. — Peel enough small onions to fill a vegetable dish ; throw them into a stewpan of boiling water ; add a little salt and a piece of fresh butter. Stew for five minutes. Drain them; put them into a saucepan with a large piece of butter, some pepper, nutmeg and salt. Toss them about over a clear fire until they begin to brown ; add a tablespoonful of gravy^ and a dessertspoonful of chopped herbs. Stew gently for fifteen minutes, and serve upon cream toast. Roasted Onions. — These should be cooked in their skins; but before putting them into the oveu, brush off all grittiness. Place in a moderate oven, cooking gradually until nearly done, then quicken the oven and brown. Serve with plenty of fresh butter. Flaked Onions. — Boil two good-sized Spanish onions in plain water, put aside until cold. Flake on two forks; season to taste. Make some butter very hot in a frying-pan, put the onions into it, and toss over the fire till brown. Drain, and serve on toast with parsley. 174 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Onions and Caper Sauce, — Boil a dozen large onions in milk, do not press them, but simply drain them ; put them immediately into a vegetable dish, and pour over them a good caper sauce made quite hot. This is the proper way of serving onions with a dish of boiled mutton. Stewed Celery. — Wash the celery very clean, and cut it to the length that it will lie evenly in a saucepan. Cover it with water, but do not use more than necessary. Salt the water rather freely. Let the celery boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty-live minutes, according to the size of the heads. Drain it, and serve it on toast as you would asparagus. A tureen of melted butter should be served with it, or some persons prefer white sauce. Fried Celery. — Is prepared as follows : Cut off the green tops of six or eight heads of celery, aiid remove the outside stalks. Wash them well and pare the roots clean. Have ready half i pint of white wine, the yelks of three egg* finely beaten, and a little salt and nutmeg, and mix them all well together with some flour into a batter. Dip every head into this batter, and fry them in butter. When sufficiently done, lay them in a dish and pour melted butter over them. Essence of Celery. — This is prepared by soaking for a fortnight a half ounce of the seeds of celery in a quarter of a pint of brandy. A few VEGETABLRS AND SALADS. 175 drops will flavor a pint of soup or broth, equal to a head of celery. Vegetable Oyster Cakes. — Select good, large-sized oyster plant roots, grate them, and add milk and flour sufiicient to make a stiff batter, about a gill of grated oyster plant, two eggs, one pint of milk, and flour to make the batter, and salt. Drop it by tablespoonfuls into hot lard. Bake till brown. Egg Plant. — Select long purple if possible ; the next best is the round kind with prickles on the stem. Peel and slice them, spread salt on each separate piece, and lay them in a colander to drain; let them lie one hour, parboil, and fry them, until thoroughly cooked, in pork fat or butter'; egg plants, unless well cooked, are insipid, and even disgusting; they must be cooked through and browned. Boiled Beets. — Beets must not be cut before boiling, as the juice will escape and the sweetness be destroyed. Select small-sized, smooth roots, wash them nicely, and boil in clear water until tender. When sufficiently cooked, skim them into a pan of cold water, and slip off the skin. Cut them in thin slices, and while hot, season with butter, salt, pepper and vinegar, and serve. If preferred cold, slice lengthwise and lay in strong cold vinegar. Asparagus. — Set a stewpan with plenty of water in it on the fire ; sprinkle a handful of salt in it ; 12 J 76 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. let it bt)Il,and skim it; then put in your asparagus, prepared thus : Scrape all the stalks till they are perfectly clean ; throw them into a pan of cold water as you scrape them; when they are all done, tie them up in little bundles, of about a quarter of a hundred each ; cut off the stalks at the bottom that tiiey may be all of a length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle for the green part; when they are tender at the stalk, which will be from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done enough. Great care must be taken to watch the (exact time of their becoming tender ; take them up just at that instant, and they will have their true flavor and color; a minute or two moi"e boiling de- stroys both. While the asparagus is boiling, toast some bread about lialf an inch thick ; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the mid- dle of a dish ; melt some butter, then lay in the asparagus upon the toast, which must project be- yond the asparagus, that the company may see there is a toast. Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a deep dish. Stewed Asparagus. — Use it as soon as possible after cutting; there are several ways of cooking this, each of which is good. Discard all not brittle enough to break easily, tie it in small bunches, and boil it in very little water, slightly salted, until tender; take off the strings, put it in a covered dish, add butter to the water sufficient to make a VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 177 rich gravy, and thicken it with very little flour, arid pour the gravy over the asparagus ; be careful to lay the heads all one way. Asparagus Soup. — Gut the asparagus in pieces a half inch long, boil in water with a little salt, and add rich sweet cream to thicken the soup. Asparagus Toast. — Tie the stalks in small bunches, boil them in very little salted water until tender ; toast as many slices of bread as there are bunches of asparagus, butter them while hot, lay a bunch on each slice of toast, add a little butter to the water, and pour it over the whole. Asparagus Omelette. — Boil some tender, freshly-cut asparagus in a very little water, slightly salted, or steam till tender. Chop up very fine ; beat with it the yelks of six and the whites of three eggs, (which must be beaten separately till light;) add two tablespoonfuls of sweet cream. Fry in butter, and serve hot. Turnips a la Poulette, — Cut the turnips into dice in a saucepan ; boil till tender, and drain. Put in the saucepan a piece of butter rolled in flour, and stir gently" over the fire ; add a gill of milk, stir again ; ]mt in the turnips, pepper, and salt. Stew five minutes, and serve. Turnips. — Full-grown turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling; if you slice them, which most people do, they will be done sooner; try them witli a fork ; when tender, take them up, and 178 VECETAET.ES AND RAT, ADS. }ay tlieni on a sieve till the water is tlioroughly drained from them. Send them up whole ; do not slice them. Turnip Tops. — Boil thoroughly, with plenty of water, salt, and soda in due proportions ; drain and pass through a hair sieve. Melt a piece of butter, to which add a little flour and the pulp of your turnip tops; stir on the fire a few minutes, adding a little milk or cream, and a little broth or stock, wdth pepper or grated nutmeg to taste. When a nice consistency, not too thick, dress on a dish as you would spinach, and serve with fried sippets of bread around it. If properly cooked, this dish has a better color than spinach, and a very pleasant, nutty, bitter taste. To Boil Peas. — They should be young and of a good sort. Must not be over-done, nor in much water. Boil some mint with them, and chop it to garnish them, and stir a piece of butter in with them. If either too young or too old, a little sugar boiled with them is an improvement. Green Peas. — Put into a stewpan a quart of peas, one onion, two ounces of butter, a sprig of mint, a teaspoonful of white sugar, and two table- spoonfuls of gravy ; stew till soft, when take out the onion and mint, and thicken with flour and butter. A lettuce is sometimes stewed with them. IvETTUCE Peas. — Ilaving washed four lettuces and stripped off the outside leaves, take the hearts VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 179 and chop them up very fine ; put them into a stew- pan with two quarts of freshly-shelled green peas, a few lumps of loaf sugar and a few leaves of green mint, finely minced. Add a slice of cold ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into four pieces and rolled in flour, two tablespoonfuls of water and a pinch of black pepper. Let all stew for half an hour, or longer, if the peas are not ten- der. Take out the ham and add half a pint of cream. Stew five minutes longer, and serve hot. To Stew Peas. — Take a quart of shelled peas, a large onion, or two of middling size, and two lettuces cut small ; put them into a saucepan with half a pint of water; season them with a little salt, a little pepper, mace, and nutmeg. Cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour, then put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and a small piece of butter as big as a nutmeg ; cover them close, and simmer gently an hour, often shak- ing the pan. Peas au Sucre. — ^Boil the peas and throw into cold water, then put them in a pan with a little butter, a tablespoonful and a half of sugar, a table- spoonful of broth, one yelk of egg ; stir fast, and they are done. Cabbage Boiled with Meat. — Select for boiling, small white cabbages with firm heads ; cut these in quarters, and wash perfectly clean. Lay 180 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. the pieces in salted water for an hour. Skin the fat from the pot when the meat is boiling, and put in the cabbage, an hour before the meat is done; drain well before serving. To Stew Cabbage. — Parboil in milk and water, and drain it, then shred it, put it into a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, a small teacupful of cream, and seasoning, and stew tender. Or, it may be stewed in white or brown gravy. Cold Cabbage, — Chop fine and heat it in vinegar, season with pepper and salt ; if not boiled with meats, add a little butter. It can also be fried ; cauliflower and brocoli can be prepared in the same manner. Dressing for Cold Slaw, — To the well-beaten yelk of one egg, add a little milk, two or three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a small piece of butter. Stir it over the fire till it comes to a boil. Red Cabbage Stewed. — After slicing a small red cabbage, and washing it perfectly clean, put it into a saucepan with pepper, salt and butter, and whatever water clings to the leaves from washing. Let it stew until perfectly tender ; add two s})()on- fuls of vinegar and boil up once. Or, shred the cabbage, wash it, and put it in a saucepan over a slow fire, with slices of onion, a little gravy, pepper and salt. When quite tender, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, three spoonfuls of vinegar, and boil up once before serving. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 181 Stewed Cabbage. — Parboil in milk and water drain, shred, put it in a etewpan with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, a small teacup of cream ; season and stew till tender. Or, stew in meat gravy. Cabbage Jelly. — Boil cabbage in tfee usual way ; squeeze it in a colander till dry, and chop very fine. Add a little butter, pepper, and salt. Press all closely into an earthen mould, and bake one hour. Turn out of the mould and serve. Hot Slaw. — Cut cabbage into fine shreds; boil it in clear water until it is perfectly tender. Mix in a saucepan a teacupful of sharp vinegar, a piece of butter, salt and pepper ; stew gently for five minutes. Drain the cabbage, place it in a deep dish, pour the dressing over it, and serve hot. Broiled Mushrooms. — A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish. Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon-juice. Cleanse the mush- rooms by wiping them with a piece of flannel and a little salt; cut oif a portion of the stalk, and peel the tops ; broil them over a clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them on a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter on each mushroom, season with pepper and salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place the dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot and quickly. Moderate-sized flaps are better suited to this mode of co"bking than the buttons ; the latter are better in stews. 182 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Stewed Mushrooms. — One pint of mushroom buttons, three ounces of fresh butter, wl)ite pepper and sal< to taste, lemon-juice, one teaspoonful of flour, cream or milk, quarter of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of mushroom buttons ; put them into a basin of water, with a little lemon-juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from the water with the hands, to avoid the sedi- ment, and put them into a stewpan with the fresh butter, wliite pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; cover the pan closely, and let the mush- rooms stew gently from twenty to twenty-five minutes ; then thicken the butter with the above proportion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk, to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender, stew them for five minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating on the top, and serve. To Dry Mushrooms. — Wipe them clean, take away the brown part and peel off the skin ; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly their usual size. Preserving Mushrooms for Winter Use.— VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 183 Peel small some freshly-gathered mushrooms, cut off the stems, and scrape out the whole of the fur, then arrange the mushrooms singly on tins or dishes, and dry them as gradually as possible in a moderately-heated oven; put them into tin canisters and store them in a dry place. Another way. — Wash large buttons, lay them on sieves, with the stalks upwards, sprinkle salt over them to extract the water; when they are drained put them into a saucepan and set them in a cool oven for an hour, then ta.ke them out care- fully and lay them by to cool and drain ; boil the liquor which comes out of them with a little sauce until reduced to half the quantity. Put the mush- rooms into a clean, dry jar, and when the liquor is cold, cover the mushroom in the jar with it and pour boiling suet over it; tie the jar well down with bladder and store it in a dry closet. Okra Stewed. — Cut into small, round slices, and to a quart add a wineglass of hot water, a table- spoonful of butter, into which has been rubbed a teagpoonful of flour ; salt and pepper to taste ; put into a covered stewpan and stew until tender, shak- ing occasionally. Okra Fried. — Strain a quart already boiled, mash it smooth, and season with salt and pepper; beat in one or two eggs and add flour enough' to thicken into a paste ; fried as fritters, and served upon a napkin hot, as fried. 1 84 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. Okka to DiiY FOR Winter Use. — Use only the young and tender ones, quarter and string them in a dry place, they must be soaked half a day before cooking. Cucumber Salad. — To one hundred cucumbers add a quarter of a peck of small onions. Peel both and cut them into thin slices : cover with salt, and stand in the sun for six hours ; rinse clean, and stand in clear cold water for one hour. For the dressing take a box of the best mustard, put into it a little salt, pour in sufficient olive oil to stir it easily, add vinegar, and oil alternately till thin enough to pour smoothly. Put the cucumbers in jars, cover with the dressing, and cover closely. Seal the jars. Salad Dressing without Oil. — Take the yelks of two fresh eggs, boiled hard, mash them in a plate with a silver fork, and a saltsj^oonful of salt, and two spoonfuls of mustard ; rub the whole well together. Add by degrees three spoonfuls of fresh cream and two of good vinegar, stirring all the time until quite smooth. Salad Dressing. — Beat together one raw egg and a saltspoonful of salt until smooth. Then in- corporate with it a teaspoonful of mustard, made rather thicker than usual. When these are quite smooth add, by degrees, one, two, or three table- spoonfuls, or even more, of good salad-oil, taking care to blend each portion of it with the egg before VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 185 adding more. This ought to make anj quantity, up to a teacupful, of a tenacious mass so thick that a teaspoon will stand up in it, and as smooth as lioney. Dilute it with vinegar till it assumes the (X)nsistence of thick cream. No salad mixture is so smooth and rich as this, and at the same time the original oily flavor is completely lost, from the raw egg converting the oil into an emulsion. A little anchovy may be added if desired. Italian Salad Dkessing. — Peel two well boiled potatoes and rub through a sieve, add a few shreds of raw onion, and the pounded yelks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix these ingredients on a deep plate with two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of made mustard, three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and one tablespopnful of vinegar ; add, lastly, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, mash and mix the whole together thoroughly. Having cut up a sufficiency of lettuce (previously well washed in cold water and drained), add to it the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing with a wooden fork. Salad. — Look over carefully the tender half blanched leaves of head-lettuce, and cut them slightly. Make a dressing of the yelks of hard- boiled eggs, mixed mustard, black pepper, butter, and vinegar. Slice three hard-boiled eggs, lay them upon the lettuce, and pour the sauce over the whole. Potato Salad. — To make a potato salad the potatoes must be boiled and cold, cut in slices with 186 VEGETABLES AND SALADS. salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, and a little parsley. ISIix the sauce, stew gently five minutes, and pour over the potatoes. Chicken Salad. — Mince the white meat of a cliicken fine, or pull it in bits ; chop the white parts of celery; prepare a salad dressing thus: Rub the yelks of hard-boiled eggs smooth with a spoon, put to each yelk a teaspoonful of made mustard, half as much salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and a wineglass of strong vinegar ; put the celery on a large dish, lay the chicken on that, then pour it over the dressing. Lettuce, cut small, in the place of celery, may be used. Cut the whites of the eggs in rings to garnish the salad. Turkey meat prepared in the same way makes almost as good a dish. Lobster Salad. — Boil the fish for half an hour, afterwards rubbing the shell with oil ; preserve this with the coral to garnish the dish. Extract the meat, and lay carefully on some nice white lettuce in the centre of the dish. Make a dressing of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth in two tablespoon- fuls of vinegar ; add one tablespoonful of English mustard, three of salad oil, one of white powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, some of black pepper, one pinch of Cayenne, and ihe yelks of two raw eggs ; mix together and pour over the fish, dressing with cut hard-boiled eggs, the coral, and the clawa and selected parts of the shell. English Salad Sauce. — Pound in a mortar the hard-boiled yelk of an egg ; mix with it a salt- VEGETABLES AND KALADS. 187 spoonful of salt, a tablespc manful of ground mustard, a mashed mealy potato, two dessertspoonfuls of cream, a tablespoonful of olive oil, and a tablespoon- ful of vinegar. Sweet Salad Sauce.— Mix together two table- spoonfuls of olive oil, the raw yelk of an egg, a lit- tle pepper, one tablespoonful of the best vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a dessertspoonful of moist sugar. Swiss Salad Deessing. — Pound in a mortar two ounces of cheese, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and, by degrees, dilute it with olive oil. PiQUANTE Sauce for Salads. — Two hard- boiled yelks of eggs, two raw yelks of eggs, mashed smooth, with a tablespoonful each of cream and olive oil ; add sufficient vinegar to make it pretty sharp. Mayout^^aise for Salad. — Beat together the juice of a lemon and the raw yelks of two eggs; then slowly drop in enough olive oil to make a thick cream, stirring gently and continuously while add- ing tht oil. Vinegar may be used instead of lemon- juice. CHAPTER VI. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. PUDDINGS. A few general remarks respecting the various in- gredients of which puddings are composed, may be acceptable as preliminary to the receipts in this de- partment. Flour should be of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and sifted before being used ; if iu the least damp, the paste made from it will certainly be heavy. Baiter, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt, and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water and buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy. Lard should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard is good. Suet should be finely cliopped, perfectly free from skin, and quite sweet ; during the process of chop- ping, it should be lightly dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together. Beef suet is considered the begt, but veal suet, or the out- side fat of a loin or neck of mutton, makes good 188 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 189 crusts, as also the skimmings in which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but without vegetables. Clarified Beef Dripping answers very well for kitchen pies, puddings, cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be made by mixing with it a small quantity of moist sugar ; but care must be taken to use the dripping sparingly, or a very dis- agreeable flavor will be imparted to the paste. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one bad article will taint the whole mixture. When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one separately in a cup before mixing them all together. Should there be a bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away ; whereas, if mixed with the good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yelks and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into much lighter. Raisins and dried fruits lor puddings should be carefully picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Cur- rants should be well washed, pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they should then be picked carefully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them before the fire. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To insure this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, and add the 190 PUDDINGS AND PASTE V, remainder by degrees. Should the pudding be very bimpy, it may be strained througli a hair sieve. All boiled puddings should be put on in boiling wafer, which must not be allowed to stop simmer- ing, and the pudding must always be covered with the water ; if requisite, the saucepan should be kept filled up. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan, place a small plate or saucer underneath it, and set the pan on a trivet over the fire. If a mould is used, this precau- tion is not necessary, but care must be taken to keep the pudding well covered with water. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the pot, dip it into a basin of cold water, and the cloth will then not adhere to it. Great expedi- tion is necessary in sending puddings to table, as, by standing, they quickly become heavy, batter puddings particularly. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or batiins should be always buttered before the mix- ture is put in them, and they should be put into the saucepan directly after they are filled. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the clean- liness of pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this par- ticular, the outsides of boiled puddings frequently taste very disagreeable. As soon as possible after it is taken off the pudding, it should be soaked in water, and then well washed without soap, unless it be very greasy. It should be dried out of doors, PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 191 then folded up, and kepi in a dry place. When wanted for use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour. The dry ingredients for puddings are better for •being mixed some time before they are wanted; the liquid portion should only be added just before the jiudding is put into the saucepan. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the gener- ality of puddings ; but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the flavor should not be detected. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them, fine sifted sugar. When baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly cooked ; \this prevents them from getting burnt. All batter puddings fall soon after they are baked. They ought to be served immediately after they are done. Indian puddings require long and slow baking. Rice should be baked quickly. Tapioca and other puddings of the kind should bake in a moderate oven like custards. All cake puddings should be baked in the same manner as cakes of nearly the same composition ; as, for instance, sponge puddings quick, and plum puddings a long time. St. Claire Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk with sugar and lemon-peel to taste, and a pinch oi* powdered cinnamon; add one ounce of disyolved 13 192 PUDDINGS AND PA8TRY. isinglass or gelatine. When boiling, add the yelks of four eggs, well beaten. Fill a mould ; stand it in water and boil fifteen minutes. Put it on the ice for two hours. Make a sauce of sugar and wine, thickened with a little arrowroot, and stand also on the ice. Pour over the pudding when it is turned out of the mould. Ice Pudding. — Take one pint of cream, lialf a pint of milk, the yelks of four eggs, one ounce of sweet almonds pounded, and half a pound of sugar; put them in a stewpan on a gentle fire, and stir the mixture until the cream sets about the consistency of custard. When cold, add two wineglasses of brandy; freeze, and when sufficiently congealed, add one pound of preserved fruits, with a few cur- rants ; cut the fruit small, and mix well with the ice. Let it remain to set in the moulding pots, and keep it in ice till required for the table. Half-fay Pudding. — Quarter pound of suet, quarter pound of currants, quarter pound of rai- sins, quarter pound of flour, quarter pound of bread crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, half a pint of milk. Chop the suet finely ; mix Avith it the currants (which should be nicely washed and dried), the raisins (which should be stoned), the flour, bread crumbs, and molasses ; moisten with the milk, beat up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered basin, and boil the pu<]-- dina: for three and a half hours. PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 193 Minute Pudding. — Mix five tablespoonfuls of flour with half a pint of cold sweet milk, a very little salt, one-fourth of a nutmeg; stir it into a pint and a half of boiling sweet milk ; boil one minute, stirring constantly; set it oif from the fire until it gets lukewarm ; add three beaten eggs ; stir until it boils, and eat Avith cream and sugar. Queen Pudding. — One pint of nice fine bread crumbs, one quart of milk, one cup of sugar, the yelks of four eggs beaten, the grated rind of a lemon, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Bake until done, but not watery. Whip the whites of the eggs stiff, beat in a tcacupful of sugar in which lias been strained the juice of the lemon, spread over the pudding a layer of jelly, pour the whites of the eggs over this ; replace in the oven ; bake lightly. To be eaten cold, with cream, if preferred. Gray Pudding. — Take three eggs, weigh them in the shell ; take an equal weight of sugar and of butter, and two-thirds of the weight of flour. Half melt the butter, and beat it to a cream ; beat the eggs also, and mix them with the butter and sugar, beating the whole to a froth ; then add the flour and the rind of a lemon, grated ; beat all together and pour it into a mould. An hour will boil it. Cottage Pudding. — A pound and a quarter of flour, fourteen ounces of suet, a pound and a quar- ter of stoned raisins, four ounces of currants, five of sugar, a quarter pound of potatoes smoothly 194 PUDDINGS AUD PASTP.Y. mashed, half a nutmeg, a (quarter teaspoonful of ginger, the same of salt, and of cloves in powder ; mix the ingredients thoroughly ; add four well beaten eggs with a quarter pint of milk, tie the pudding in a well-floured cloth, and boil it for four hours, Soyer's New Christmas Pudding. — This re- ceipt, if closely followed, would, at this festive sea- son of the year, save tons of fruit and other expen- sive ingredients, which are partly wasted for the want of knowing how to turn them to the best ad- vantage. This pudding will be found sufficient for eight persons after a Christmas dinner. Carefully prepare the following, previous to mixing the pud- ding : Four ounces of stoned raisins, four ounces of sultanas, half a pound of well-cleaned currants, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, two ounces of powdered white sugar, two ounces of flour, half a pound of bread crumbs, twelve bitter almonds blanched, chopped small, half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied citron, the peel of half a small lemon chopped fine, separately, put in a basin, break over four eggs, and add half a gill of brandy. Mix these all well the evening before wanted, cover over till the morning, and when all is prepared, add half a gill of milk, again well stir your pudding ; slightly butter a cloth, sprinkle a little flour over, put it in a basin, pour in the mixture, tie your cloth in the usual way, not too tight ; put in half a gallon of boiling water, add more now and then, PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 195 if required ; let it simmer two hours and thirty minutes, turn out of the cloth and serv^on a hot dish. Serve plain, if preferred, or with the sauce only. After wliich, when at the dining-room door, pour round a gill of either brandy or rum, wiiioh set on fire with a piece of paper; place the dish on the table, let burn half a minute, and pour the fol- lowing sauce over from the sauce-boat; after which cut seven or eight slices from the pudding cross- wise, or according to number, when help, and serve very hot. The sauce I prefer with it is as follows : Make half a pint of ordinary plain melted l)utter, rather thick, add to it two teaspoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a pat of butter; stir quickly, pour over your pudding when very hot, or serve the sauce separately in a sauce-boat. Though the above pudding is not very expensive, it requires a little time and attention to do it prop- erly; and well will be repaid the housewife who will take the trouble, as above described. In the event of some of the ingredients, such as almonds, candied orange or lemon-peel, not being obtainable in some country places, the pudding will still be good, although not so delicate in flavor. Christmas Pudding. — One pound of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of suet, three- quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, one pint of milk, ten eggs, three-quarters of a pound of citron and orange-peel mixed, one small nutmeg, one glass of brandv. Stone the raisins and divide thcia, 106 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. wash and dry the currants, and cut the peel into sh'ces. Mix all these with the bread crumbs, flour and suet, chopped very fine ; add the grated nut- meg, and then stir in the eggs well beaten, tlie brandy, and the milk. When the ingredients are well blended, put it into a mould, tie a floured cloth over it, and boil it six hours. When done turn it out, and serve it with brandy and arrowroot sauce. Plum Pudding. — Four eggs, about one dozen crackers, one pint of new milk, one teacup of but- ter, half a pound of sugar, one pound of raisins, one ])0und of prunes, a grated nutmeg. Bake about an hour. Suet Plum Puddinc;. — One cup of molasses, one cup of finely-chopped suet, one cup of milk, three cups of flour, one cup of stoned raisins; add currants and citron, if liked; one teaspoonful of sodti, .one teaspoonful of ground cloves and cinna- nu>n, one nutmeg. Tie up loosely in your pud- ding-bag, and boil three or four hours. Eat with wine sauc;'. Barbara's Plum Pudding. — One cup of chop- ped suet, one cup of chopped apples, one cup of molasses, two cups of raisins, one cup of sweet or pour milk, four cups of flour, quarter of a teaspoon- ful of saleratus, and a little salt. Boil or steam five hours. Rich Plum Pudding without Flour. — One PUDDINGP AND PASTRY. 197 pound and a half of grated bread, one pound and a half of raisins, one pound and a half of currants, one pound of beef suet, peel of one large lemon, three ounces of almonds, a little nutmeg or mixed spice, sugar to taste, three-quarters of a pound of candied orange, lemon, and citron, eight or nine eggs, half a pint of milk, two wineglassfuls of brandy. Stone the raisins, wash and pick the cur- i-ants, chop the suet very fine, and mix with them a pound and a half of grated bread ; add the candied peel cut into shreds, tlie almonds blanched and minced, and the mixed spice and sugar to taste. When all are thoroughly blended, stir it well to- gether with eight or nine well beaten eg^s, two glassfuls of brandy, and half a pint of milk, tie it in a cloth, and boil it for five hours or five hours and a half, or divide it into equal parts, and boil it in moulds or basins for half the time. Cottage Plum Pudding. — A pound and a half of flour, four or five eggs, a pinch of salt, a little nutmeg, one pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, sugar to taste, and a little milk. Make a thick batter with five well beaten eggs, a pound and a half of flour, and a sufficient quantity of milk. Then add the currants, washed and picked, the rai- >sins stoned, a little nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Mix all well together, and boil it in a basin or floured cloth for quite five hours. The peel of a lemon grated, and a few pieces of citron cut thin may be added. 198 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Unrivalled Plum Pudding. — Two and a half pounds of raisins, one and three-quarters of a poimd of currants, two pounds of the finest moist suo;ar, two pounds of bread crumbs, sixteen eggs, two pounds of finely-chopped suet, six ounces of mix candied peel, the rind of two lemons, one ounce of ground nutmeg, one ounce of ground ciunamon, half an ounce of pounded bitter almonds, quarter of a pint of brandy. Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them ; wash and dry the cun-ants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, and moisten them with the eggs, which should be well beaten and strained; then stir in the brandy, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a stout new pudding cloth ; put in the pud- ding, tie it down very tightly and closely, boil from six to eight hours, and serve with brandy sauce. This quantity may be divided and boiled in buttered moulds. For small families this is the most desir- able way, as the above will be found to make a pudding of large dimensions. Christmas Plum Pudding. — A pound of suet, cut in pieces not too fine, a pound of currants, and a pound of raisins stoned, four eggs, half a grated nutmeg, an ounce of citron and lemon-peel, shred fine, a teaspoonful of beaten ginger, half a pound of bread crumbs, half a pound of flour, and a pint of milk ; beat the eggs first, add half the milk, beat them together, and by degrees stir in the flour, then PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 199 the suet, spice, and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it together very thick ; then take a clean cloth, dip in boiling water, and squeeze dry. Wiiile the water is boiling fast, put in your pudding, which should boil at least five hours. Apple Pudding. — Pare four or five large tart apples, grate them fine ; then make the following custard, into which stir the grated apple : Flour, four tablespoonfuls; one pint of milk, five eggs, and a little grated orange-peel. After you have these ingredients well mixed, pour them into your pudding-dish, and bake about one hour and a quarter. Boiled Apple Pudding, — Make a butter-crust, or a suet one, using for a moderate-sized pudding from three-quarters to one pound of flour, with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin ; line it with some of the paste; pare, core and cut the apples into slices, and fill the basin with these ; add sugar to taste, flavor with lemon-peel and juice, and cover with crust; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it over the pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling water. Let it boil from one and a half to two and a half hours, according to the size ; then turn it out of the basin, and send it to table quickly. Apple puddings may also be boiled in a cloth without a basin ; but, when made in this way, must be served without the least delay, as the crust so soon becomes heavy. 200 PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. Baked Apple Pudding. — Four large apples boiled, some grated bread, four ounces of butter, four yelks and two whites of eggs well beaten, sugar to taste ; edge a dish with pufp-paste, and bake half an hour. Rich Sweet Apple Pudding. — Half a pound of bread crumbs, half a pound of suet, half a pound of currants, half a pound of apples, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, twelve sweet almonds, half a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one wineglassful of brandy. Chop the suet very fine; wash the currants, dry them, and pick away the stalks and pieces of grit ; pare, core and chop the apple, and grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds. Mix all these ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg; beat up the eggs, omitting the whites of three; stir these to the pudding, and when all is well mixed add the brandy, and put the pudding into a buttered mould ; tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil for three hours. Pippin Pudding. — Boil six apples well; take out the cores, put in half a pint of milk thickened with three eggs, a little lemon-peel, and sugar to the taste ; put putf-paste around your dish, bake it in a slow oven, grate sugar over it and serve it hot. Another. — Take the pulp of two large roasted aj>])les, the peel and juice of one lemon, the yelks of six eggs, two Sa^^oy biscuits grated, a quarter of PUDDINGS AND PASTKY. 201 a pound of butter melted, and sugar to your taste. Beat the ingredients together, put a pufl-paste around your dish, and bake it. Apple E,oll. — Make a paste with one-fourth of a pound of butter to one of flour mixed with water, not very stiff. Peel and slice rather thick, tart apples, roll the paste very thin, or as thin as the bottom crust of a pie; spread the apples on the crust, so as to cover it, dredge on a little flour, and roll it as tight as possible. Cut the ends even, and put it in the steamer, or wrap it in thick cloth and boil it. It will take one hour steady cooking. Serve with butter and sugar; cut it in thin slices from the end when serving. CocOANUT PuDDiNCJ — Half a pound of loaf- sugar, half a pound of butter, half a cocoanut, grated, the whites of six eggs, one tablespoonful of rose water, two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Pare the brown skin off the nut, wash it in cold water, wipe it dry, and grate it. After the butter has been prepared as for lady-cake, and the sugar pounded fine, beat them to a cream ; whisk the whites of the eggs until stiff and dry, and add to the butter and sugar; stir the whole well together^ and add gradually the nut, brandy and rose-water — • then stir well, but do not heat it. Bake on rich pastry, without a top crust. Fine Cocoanut Pudding. — Pare the dark rind from one cocoanut and grate the meat. Break into 202 PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. a bowl six eggs, adding a heavy tablespoonfiil of sugar for each egg. When very light, jDonr in a pint of cream or milk to stir in the cocoanut. Melt a teacup half full of butter and add to it, with a small portion of soda. Put a puff-paste into your dish, and fill it with the mixture. Cocoanut Custard Pudding. — Grate half a cocoanut meat; stir it into a good custard, and bake in a buttered basin. Make the custard of four eggs to a quart of milk. This may be baked with an under crust. A quick oven for this — thirty or forty minutes. Serve with the following wine sauce : One cup of butter, one cup of sugar ; stir to a cream ; then one cup of wine added slowly. Put the bowl into a vessel of hot water, one half hour before using it. It must not be stirred. Cocoanut Cup Puddings. — Melt two ounces of butter, cut small, stirring in two ounces of sifted sugar; boil up for a minute. When cool, grate in two ounces of cocoanut, add two ounces of shred citron, the grated rind of a lemon, and four eggs ; beat with the juice of half a lemon. Mix, and ])ut into well-buttered coffee cups, and bake half an hour. The same may be made as one pudding in a dish, and baked longer. Lemon Pudding. — To a pint of new milk boiled, add two spoonfuls of flour, and boil till smooth ; then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter and four well beaten eggs, add the peel of a lemon shred PUDDINGS AND PASTEY. 203 very fine, and sweeten to your taste ; line a dish with very h'ght puff-paste, pour in the mixture, and bake half an hour. Excellent Lemon Pudding. — Beat the yelks of four eggs ; add four ounces of white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it to take the essence ; then peel, and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a lemon, and mix all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish, nick the edges, and put the above into it. When served, turn the pudding out of the dish. Iced Lemon Pudding. — Quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, the yelks of five eggs, one quart of milk, one lemon, the rind grated anound add three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil the whole until of due consistence, which will occupy more than half an hour ; keeping the jam in constant agitation, lest 284 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. the bottom should burn. When done enouo;h, take it off the fire and put it into pots. Preserved Pineapple. — Twist out the crown of the pineapple, and pare off the hard yellow rind ; next slice the fruit about half an inch thick, and trim it quite clean around the edges, taking care of the trimmings. Put them into a preserving pan with one quart of cold water, and boil till reduced to half a pint ; strain it, then put the slices on the lire with the juice and equal weight of fine white sugar ; boil gently half an hour. Or : Make a thin syrup, a quart of water to two pounds of sugar. While this is dissolving, prepare the pineapples, eight medium-sized ones, by remov- ing the skin, and cutting the flesh into slices, about half an inch thick. AVhen the sugar is dissolved, and while the syrup is still hot, throw in the fruit. Give one boil up ; let it boil for a quarter of an hour, and put it aside to cool. When cool, boil up again, and repeat this three times. This is some trouble; but the pineapple will not be enough cooked with less than three-quarters of an hour's boiling, and if boiled for that time without a break, it is apt to get pappy. Lastly, make a thick syrup of four pounds of sugar to a quart of water, and add this to the other while both are hot. Bcil up once more for a few minutes, and put away in a well-corked or stoppered bottle with a wide mouth. The preserve made as above is most delicious. PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 285 Pineapples without Cooking. — Peel very ripe pineapples, cut them in slices, take out the cores, and weigh the fruit ; allow a pound of double- refined loaf sugar to every pound of fruit. Spread the sugar evenly over the fruit ; pack it in layers, and let it stand twenty-four hours ; then drain off the syrup, and boil it as long as any impurities rise to the surface ; skim it constantly, and pour it over the fruit boiling hot. Pineapple Jelly. — This is set with isinglass. To every quart of syrup allow one ounce of shred isinglass. To make the syrup, allow to a pint of juice a pound of the best loaf sugar. Pineapple Marmalade. — To -every pound of grated pineapple allow a pound of double-refined loaf sugar. Boil until thick ; then pack in tumb- lers, and paste over them papers wet with the ])eaten whites of eggs. Keep in a dry, cool place until wanted. Pineapple Preserve. — Twist off the top and bottom, and pare off the rough outside of pineapples ; then weigh them, and cut them in slices, chips, or quarters, or cut them into four or six, and shape each piece like a whole pineapple ; to each pound of fruit put a teacup of water ; put it in a preserving kettle; cover it, and set it over the fire, and let them boil gently until they are tender and (jlear ; then take them from the water by sticking a fork in the centre of each slice, or with a skimmer, into a dish. 2vSG PRESERVES AND JELLIES. Put to the water white sugar, a pound for each pound of fruit ; stir it until it is all dissolved ; then put in the pineapple, cover the kettle, and let it boil gently until transparent throughout; when it is so, take it out, kt it cool, and put it into glass jars ; as soon as the syrup is a little cooled, pour it over them ; let them remain in a cool place until the next day, then secure the jars, by tying them over in the usual manner. Pineapple done in this way is a delicious preserve, but in preserving it, by putting it into the syrup without first boiling it, makes it little better than sweetened leather. Ehubarb Jam. — Out into pieces about an inch long (not peeled), put three-quarters of a pound of powdered lump sugar to every pound of rhubarb, and leave till morning ; pour the syrup from it and boil till it thiokens, then add the rhubarb and boil gently a quarter of an hour ; tie down with tissue- paper dipped in white of egg. It will keep good for a year, and is excellent. Rhubarb Preserve. — To every six pounds of rhubarb add six pounds of sugar and a quarter of a pound of bruised ginger ; the rhubarb to be cut into pieces two inches long and put into a stone jar, with the sugar in layers, till the sugar is dissolved ; take the juice or syrup and boil it with the ginger for half an hour, then add the rhubarb and boil another half hour. Plums. — Prick them with a needle to prevent. PKESEKVES AND JELLIES. 287 bursting, siimuer them very gently in thin syrup, put lliem into a china bowl, and, when cold, pour the syrup over. Let them lie three days, then make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to five pounds of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar dipped quickly and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this fresh syrup, after draining them from the first ; do them very gently till they are clear and the syrup adheres to tliem ; put them one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor over them. To Preserve Purple Plums. — Make a syrup of clean brown sugar; clarify it; when perfectly clear and boiling hot, pour it over the plums, hav- ing picked out all unsound ones and stems; let them remain in the syrup two days, then drain it off, make it boiling hot, skim it, and pour it over again ; let them remain another day or two, then put them in a preserving-kettle over the fire, and simmer gently until the syrup is reduced, and thick or rich. One pound of sugar for each pound of plums. Preserved Cherries. — Take large cherries not very ripe; stew and stone them; save what juice runs from them ; take an equal weight of white sugar ; make the syrup of a teacup of water for each I)ound, set it over the fruit until it is dissolved and boiling hot, then put in the juice and cherries, boil them gently until clear throughout ; take them from the syrup with a skimmer, and spread them on flat dishes to cool ; let the syrup boil until it is rich and 19 288 rjiivSKiiVEs and jeli.ieh. quite tliick ; set it to cool and settle; take the fruit into jars and pots, and pour the syrup carefully over ; let them remain open till the next day ; then cover as directed. Sweet cherries are improved by the addition of a pint of red currant-juice, and half a pound of sugar to it, for four or five poundh of cherries. Cheery Maemalade or Jam. — Take out the stones and stalks from some fine cherries, and pulp them through a cane sieve ; to every three pounds of pulp add half a pint of currant-juice, and three- quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit ; mix together, and boil until it will jelly. Put it into pots or glasses. Spiced Cherries. — Seven pounds of sour cher- ries seeded, three pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, and mace. Boil six times ; last time put cherries in and let it come to a boil. Bottling Cherries. — To every pound of fruit add six ounces of powdered lump sugar. Fill the jars with fruit, sliake the sugar over, and tie each jar down with two bladders, as there is danger of one bursting during the boiling. Place the jars in a boiler of cold water, and after the water has boiled, let them remain three hours ; take them out, and when cool, put them in a dry place, where they will keep over a year. Cherry or Strawberry Fool. — Pick tha PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 289 stems from your fruit; if cherries, stone them, bruise them to a pulp, add a sufficiency of loaf sugar pounded and sifted, and half a pint of cream to a pint of pulp ; put it into custard-glasses with a layer of raw cream upon the top, and serve. Some housekeepers, to avoid the trouble of frequent bak- ings, line several tart-dishes with an edge of crust ; bake them and keep them for use as required, when some preserve or raw fruit as above may be simply laid in, and au easy-made tart produced upon an emergency. Cherry Jam. — To every pound of fruit, weighed before stoning, allow half a pound of sugar; to every six pounds of fruit allow one pint of red cur- rant-juice, and to every pint, one pound of sugar. Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight of sugar ; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan until nearly all the juice is dried up ; then add the sugar, which should be crushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing one pint to every six pounds of cherries, (original weight,) and one pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from twenty minutes to half an hour ; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a few minutes before it is done, crack some of the stones and add the kernels. Currant Jelly. — Pick fine red, but long ripe currants from the stems; bruise them, and strain the juice from a quart at a time through a thin 290 PRESEEVES AND JELLIES. muslin ; wring it gently, to get all the liquid ; put a pound of white sugar to each pound of juice ; stir it until it is all dissolved; set it over a gentle fire ; let it become hot, and boil for fifteen minutes ; then try it by taking a spoonful into a saucer ; when cold, if it is not quite firm enough, boil it for a few minutes longer. Black Currant Jelly. — It is necessary to add a little water to the fruit, in order to strain it, it is so very thick, unless jam is made at the same time, when a part can be strained for the jelly, and the remainder used for jam. After it is boiled so as to heat the fruit through, press it little by little until all the juice is extracted ; measure the juice, and allow one pound of sugar to every pint of juice; mix the juice and sugar, and boil ten minutes gently, stirring constantly,, when it will be ready to put in moulds. Cover with paper wet with brandy. Black Currant Jam. — To every pound of black currants pulped, put a pound of sugar. Boil up Uie fruit, stirring it continually, until reduced by evaporation to the proper consistence. Jams may also be made of red and Mdiite currants, but as they are scarcely ever used, the jelly being so much preferred, few persons make them. The black currant is one of the most wholesome of jams, and certainly very useful. It has many medicinal virtues, in addition to its agreeable fla- PEESERVES AND JELLIES. 291 vor. As a foundatidh in a glass of whipped cream, it is delicious. To Can Fruit and Vegetables. — Peaches should be skinned and cut in halves if clingstones, or quartered if freestone, and thrown into water to keep fresh. Put them in a can, adding half as much sugar as fruit, in alternate layers. Let stand until the sugar is dissolved, then put in a preserving kettle and let boil until the fruit is boiling-hot. At once fill the cans and seal tight. Raspberries, and such other small fruit, are done as follows: Pick and wash the fruit carefully, and to every pound of fruit add half a pound of sugar. Put in a vessel in alternate layers and let stand for one hour. Boil in preserving-kettle for ten min- utes, can whilst hot. No water need be used, as the fruit yields sufficient juice. Corn, peas, okra, etc. : Boil for half an hour, with just sufficient water to cover them ; can whilst hot. The corn, of course, should be cobbed before boiling. Tomatoes : Scald only enough to remove the skins, boil for half an hour in their own juice. Can boiling-hot. To seal hermetically, place the jars in a pan of hot water, which will expel the air, seal at once, and the fruit will keep an indefinite period. Brandy Peaches. — Four pounds of ripe peaches, two pounds of powdered loaf sugar. Put the fruit over the fire in cold water, simmer, but not boil, till the skins will rub off easily ; stone them, if liked. 292 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. Put the sugar and fruit in alternate layers in the jars till filled, then pour in white brandy, and cover the whole. Cork tightly. Quinces Preserved Whole. — Pare and put them into a saucepan, with the parings at the top, then fill it with hard water, cover it close, set it over a gentle fire till they turn reddish. Let them stand till cold, put them into a clear, thick syrup, boil them for a few minutes; set them on one side till quite cold, boil them again in the same manner. Tlie next day boil them until they look clear. If the syrup is not thick enough, boil it more. When cold, put brandied paper over them. The quinces may be halved or quartered. Quince Marmalade. — To one gallon of quinces three pounds of good loaf sugar. Pare the quinces and cut them in halves, scoop out the cores and the hard strip that unites the core with the string. Put the cores and some of the parings in a saucepan with about a quart of water; put the halves of quinces in .a steamer that fits the saucepan, boil them until the quinces are softened by the steam, then mash them with a wooden spoon in a dish and pour the water from the saucepan on them, which is now of a thick glutinous substance. Put them with the sugar in a stewpan or enamelled saucepan, and let them boil for about half an hour, keeping them well Btirred. Quince Jelly. — Take some sound, yellow PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 293 quinces, which are not over ripe; peel them, cut them in quarters, and boil them in as much water as will cover them. When they have been well boiled, squeeze them through a linen cloth, clarify the juice in a filtering-bag, weigh it, and put it with three-quarters of its weight of sugar in a brass ket- tle. Do not forget to put in a piece of cinnamon. Cook the whole together until it has become a jelly. Take it from the fire, and tie up in pots when it is cold. Quinces for the Tea Table. — Bake ripe quinces thoroughly. When cold, strip off the skins, place them in a glass dish, and sprinkle with white sugar, and serve them with cream. They make a fine looking dish for the tea table, and a more lus- cious and inexpensive one than the same fruit made into sweetmeats. Those who once taste the fruit thus prepared will probably desire to store away a few bushels in the fall to use in the above manner. Quince and Apple Jelly. — Cut small and core an equal weight of tart apples and quinces. Put the quinces in a preserving-kettle, with water to cover them, and boil till soft ; add the apples, still keeping water to cover them, and boil till the whole is nearly a pulp. Put the whole into a jelly- bag and strain without pressing. To each quart of juice allow two pounds of lump sugar. Boil together half an hour. Apple Jelly. — Cut off all s])ots and decayed 294 PRESERVES AND JELLIES. places on the apples, quarter them, but do not pare or core them. Put in the peel of as many lemons as you like, about two to six or eight dozen of the apples. Fill the preserving-pan, and cover the fruit with spring water. Boil them till they are in pulp, then pour them into a jelly-bag ; let them strain all night; do not squeeze them. To every pint of juice put one pound of white sugar. Put in the juice of the lemons you had before pared, but strain it through muslin. You may also put in about a teaspoonful of essence of lemon, let it boil for at least twenty minutes ; it will look redder than at first; skim it well all the time. Put it either in shapes or pots, and cover it the next day. It ought to be quite stiff and very clear. Apple Jam. — The apples, which should be ripe, and of the best eating sort, being pared and quar- tered, are put into a pan with just water to cover them, and boiled until they can be reduced to a mash. Then, for each pound of the pared apples, a pound of sifted sugar is added, being sprinkled over the boiling mixture. Boil and stir it well until re- duced to a jam ; then put it into pots. The above is the most simple way of making it; but to have it of the best possible clearneas, make a thick syrup with three pounds of sugar to each pint of water, and clarify it with an egg, as before directed. Then add one pint of this syrup for every three pounds of apples, and boil the jam to a propei thickness. PRESERVES AND JELLIES. 295 Apple Marmalade. — This is a useful thing to make, as it may be put aside for future use, and will keep a long time. Pare, core, and cut your apples into small pieces, put them into water with a little lemon -juice to keep them white; take them out after a short time and drain them, weigh and put them into a stewpan, with an equal quantity of sugar, a stick of cinnamon, and the juice of a lemon. Place the stewpan over a brisk fire and cover it. When the apples are pulped, stir the mixture until it becomes of a proper consistency, and put the mar- malade into pots. Apple Preserve. — Procure fresh gathered ripe apples of a fine sort, peel them, take out the cores, and cut them in quarters. Place them in a preserv- ing-pan, with a glass of water, a little lemon or or- ange-peel, and a pound of sugar to a pound and a half of fruit. Let it boil thoroughly, and then put t out into preserve pots. Crab Apple Jam. — Pare the crab apples when quite ripe, put them into a stone jar, cover it well, and put it in a pan of boiling water for an hour and a half. Then prepare the syrup with two pounds of sugar in half a pint of water for every pound of the apples. Clarify the syrup. Then put the ap- ples into it and boil the whole to a jam. CHAPTER IX. butter, cheese and eggs. Butter that threatens to turn rancid. — Butter that has not been properly churned, or that has not been carefully separated from the butter- milk, has been improperly packed, or from any other cause threatens to turn rancid, should be immediately washed and kneaded in spring water, changing the water several times, then resalted with salt pounded as fine as possible, and sifted through a hair sieve. Butter making. — Strain away the milk in Jlat, stone jars nicely cleaned and scalded. Skim the cream off when it rises. In the summer season the ci'aam should not be kept longer than twenty-four hours before it is churned. After churning take the butter up in a wooden bowl without any water at all, and let it set by over night, and in the morn- ing, while cool and pleasant, beat it well and season with salt to taste. After a day or two it should be beaten over again to get all the milk out of it (for this is the true secret of keeping butter well). Season it with a little more salt, and pack. 206 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. 297 To Preserve Butter. — Take good, sweet, June butter, work the buttermilk carefully out ; then add a handful of salt to a pound of butter ; pack a good layer of butter in your stone jar, then a layer of salt; repeat until the jar i^ full ; then place a good weight on top, and stand in a good cool place ; cover with brine, to bear an egg. Curled Butter. — Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the wall ; make a knot with the other two ends so that a stick might pass through. Put the butter into the cloth ; twist it tightly over a dish, into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small and pretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley, if to serve with a cheese course ; or it may be sent to table plain for breakfast in an orna- mental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing hams, salads, eggs, etc., is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in the shape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from the hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon or scooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly and thin. In warm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the spoon. Rajstcid Butter, boiled in water with a portion of charcoal (say a tenth part), will be entirely divested of its rancidity, and may be used for cook- ing purposes, although its fine flavor will not be restored for the table. 298 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. MANUFACTURE OF PINEAPPLE AND POTATO CHEESES. The Netherlanders supply the market with what is popularly known as "pineapj^le" cheese. Very excellent cheese it is, too — this Dutch pineapple — keeping in all climates capitally, and always com- manding ready sale at good prices. This is the Hollanders' formula for making Edam or pine- apple cheese. It is simple enough, and the Holland "pine-apples" may just as easily be made in Ame- rica, wherever four or five cows are kept, as it is in the Netherlands. The fresh sweet milk is curdled with muriatic acid or spirits of salt, and the curd cut and chopped and manipulated in the most thorough manner in order to expel every particle of whey. The curd is then soaked in a brine of sufficient strength to float an egg for an hour. The brine is then worked out, and the curd subjected to a heavy pressure in iron moulds, that give the pineapple form to the cheese. After from four to five hours' pressing, the cheese is taken from the form and anointed with soft butter, having as much fine salt worked into it as it will hold. Thus finished up they set singly in rows on shelves in a cool, airy place, and with a month's curing are in a fit condition to send abroad, and will keep for years in any climate. The largest of these Dutch cheeses never exceed four and a half pounds weight, to make one of BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. 299 ^^'hioll requires about six gallons of milk. So at •my farm-house, where three or four cows only are kept, an Edam cheese may be made every day with- out interfering with other duties, and the aggregate for a year would make a very respectable increase of income. In Saxony the smalles farmers manufacture very palatable cheese from the milk of a single cow by the addition of potatoes. The potatoes are boiled until perfectly cooked, then mashed, and to four pounds of potatoes one quart of thick sour milk is added, with salt enough to season, and the mass kneaded as thoroughly as bread dough. In four days it receives another vigorous kneading, and is divided into balls of three to five pounds weight, pressed with the hand as compact as possible into small baskets, and dried, in summer, in the shade; in winter, by the fire or stove. When thoroughly dry, the cheese is put into tin cans, sealed up, and set by for use in a cool, dry place. Cheese Biscuit. — Two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, two ounces of grated cheese,^ little Cayenne, and salt. To be made into a thin paste and rolled out very thin, then cut 'in pieces four inches long and one inch broad, bake a very light brown, and send to table as hot as possible. Cheesecake. — Bruise one cottage cheese with one-eighth of a pound of butter, add four eggs and milk enough to render it the consistency of 300 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. thick gruel ; sweeten to taste ; add one-half a lemon and spice to your liking. Bake with bottom crust. Buttermilk Cheese. — Scald the buttermilk; then set it over the fire to boil ; skim the top, and put it in a jug to drain ; add a little salt, and it is ready for use. Potted Cheese. — This is a useful luncheon dish, and, being in a glass jar, it looks light and pretty on the table. One pound of cheese must be well beaten in a mortar, and to it must be added two ounces of liquid butter, one glass of sherry, and a very small quantity of Cayenne pepper, mace, and salt. All should be well beaten together and put into a pretty-shaped glass potting-jar, with a layer of butter at the top. It makes a delicious relish for bread or toast. Cheese Straws, No. 1. — Haifa pound of puff- paste, three ounces of Parmesan cheese, grated, a little Cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper, roll it verf thin, cut it in narrow strips, bake in a moderate oven, and serve hot. 2. Quarter of a pound of flour, and two ounces of butter worked through the flour with the fingers, and rubbed till quite smooth ; two ounces of grated cheese, the yelks of two eggs, and the white of one. Season to taste with Cayenne pepper and a small pinch of salt. Mix all together, roll it out thin, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. 301 place it on a well-buttered tin pan ; cut into narrow strips about five inches long. Remove from the tin carefully, after baking ten minutes. 3. Quarter of a pound of puiF-paste, a quarter of an ounce of Parmesan (or any other good cheese) grated very fine, a little salt and Cayenne pepper mixed, sprinkle the cheese, salt and pepper over the paste, and roll it two or three times ; cut it into narrow strips about five inches long. Bake them in a slow oven, and serve hot. Cream Cheese. — The cream cheese we make at home is much admired. We put a quart of cream into a clean jug, with half a teaspoonful of salt stirred in, and let it stand a day or two till thickish. Then we fold an ordinary grass cloth about six or eight times, and sprinkle it with salt, then lay it in a sieve about eight inches in diameter. The gides of the cloth should come up well over the sieve. Then pour in the cream, and sprinkle a little salt on it. Change the cloth as often as it becomes moist, and as the cheese dries press it with the cloth and sieve. In about a week or nine days it will be prime and fit to eat. The air alone suffices to turn the cream into cheese. • Another : Take about half a pint of cream, tie it up in a piece of thin muslin, and suspend it in a cool place. After five or six days take it out of the muslin, and put it between two plates, witli a small weight on the upper one. This will 302 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. make it a good shape for the table, and also help to ripen the cheese, which will be fit to use in about eight days from the comnieneeinent of the making. HOW TO COOK AND SERVE EGGS. When we inform our readers that in the wide and ever-extending circle of French cookery, no less than six hundred and eighty-five ways of preparing eggs are recognized, it will be obvious to them that our chief difficulty has been, in preparing this collection, what to choose, and what to avoid. Our principle has been to present to our readers the choicest, the most useful, and palatable varieties. Eggs, Plain Boiled. — This being beyond ques- tion the most popular way of serving eggs, we must commence by giving it in the approved French method. Get ready a saucepan of boiling water, place in it some fresh eggs, immediately remove the saucepan from the fire, put on the lid, and let the eggs remain exactly four minutes. Take them up, and serve them, well warmed, in a dish. The eggs, if so preferred, may be put into cold water over a quick fire, and when the water comes to a boil, they are done. Eggs sur le Plat. — Heat some butter upon a tin or pewter dish ; carefully break into it as many eggs as you think sufficient; arranging them neatly; season with salt and pepper ; add a few teaspoonfuls BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. 303 of good, thick cream, and place the dish for six minutes over a clear fire, and serve dirretly. EoG-BALLS. — Take the yelks of six hard-boiled eggs; pound them in a mortar, together with a little salt, one dessertspoonful of flour, and a small quantity of pepper. When a smooth, but stiff paste is formed, add as much raw yelk of egg as will serve to mix it of the consistency required. Make it into balls, and serve them upon buttered toast. Lait de Poule. — Beat until light the yelks of two fresh eggs, add two teaspoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and the same quantity of orange flower water. Stir quickly and add a teacupful of boiling water. Drink while hot. Eggs a L'Aedennaise.— ^Break the'shells of one dozen eggs. Separate the yelks from the whites and keep each yelk by itself. Beat the whites to a froth ; add to them a little salt, pepper and thick cream. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered deep dish, and arrange the yelks upon the top. Put the dish into a gentle oven, and, when set, serve hot. Eggs a L'Aurore. — Boil some eggs until they are hard. Remove the shells ; cut each egg in half and scoop out the yelks, put these into a mortar with some pepper, salt, savory herbs and cream. Beat all to a paste; place some of it in each halved whiie of egg, and lay the remainder in a buttered dish. Arrange the stuffed eggs on the top with the forced 30 3U4 lilTTKR, CIJEKSE AKD ECG8. meat uppermost. Brown in a moderate oven, and serve hot. Broiled Eggs. — Cut a large round of bread ; toast it on both sides, and butter it. Carefully break six eggs, and arrange them upon the toast ; sprinkle over them some salt and pepper, and slowly pass a red-hot shovel up and down over them until they are well set. Squeeze upon them the juice of an orange, and strew over a little grated nutmeg. Serve as quickly as possible. If preferred, the toasted bread may be dipped into some warmed cream, and some poached eggs placed upon it, and then glazed with a red-hot shovel. MiNCEp Eggs. — Shell four or five hard-boiled eggs, and mince them ; but not very fine. Thicken a breakfastcupful of gravy or milk, with sufficient flour rolled in butter; add some savory herbs, chopped small ; season with Cayenne or white pepper, a little nutmeg, and salt ; simmer it for ten minutes, put in the. eggs, shake it gently round and round over the fire for a few moments, and serve garnished with sippets of toast and small pieces of sliced lemon. Any particular flavor may be given to this dish, to suit the taste. Brown Eggs. — Hard boil some eggs, put them into cold water, shell them and slice them ; lay them upon hot buttered toast, and season them according to taste. Strew fried bread crumbs over BUrrER, CHEESE AND EGGS. 305 theui, then sprinkle them with catsup and brown thejn. Egg Dumplings. — Make a batter of a pint of milk, two well-beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and flour enough to make a batter as thick as for pound cake. Have a clean saucepan of boiling water; let the water boil fast; drop in the batter W'ith a tablespoon. Four or five minutes will boil them. Take them with a skimmer on a dish ; put A bit of butter and pepper over them, and serve with boiled or cold meat. To serve sweet, put butter and grated nutmeg, with syrup or sugar over it. Rumbled Eggs. — Very convenient for invalids, or, when required, a light dish for supper. Beat up three eggs with two ounces of fresh butter, or well- washed salt butter; add a teaspoonful of cream or new milk. Put all in a saucepan and keep stir- ring it over the fire for nearly five minutes, until it rises up like souffle, when it should be immediately dished on buttered toast. Omelette Soufflee. — Put three tablespoonfuls of sugar in a bowl with four yelks of eggs, and mix them well, addiug a few drops of essence. (Omelette soufflde is an entremet and comes after the vegetables.) Then beat the whites, adding a pinch of salt, and mix with the rest, putting in tw3 tablespoonfuls of the mixture with the whites at first, and then adding the rest. Stir gently 306 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. until well mixed, and serve in the dish that it is cooked in. After putting it in the pan smooth with a knife, dust with powdered sugar and bake. The salt is added to the white of egg to prevent its curdling. The omelette is cooked at 310° Fahrenheit. For puff-paste, 500°. It must be served at once, as it falls rapidly. Powder with sugar and serve. Omelette a la Creppe. — Put into a basin eight tablespoonfuls of flour ; beat six eggs into it, with as much milk as will make it into a batter, with a pinch of salt. Bake till brown. Egg Cheesecakes. — Twelve eggs, boiled hard and rubbed through a sieve (wliile hot), with half a pound of butter ; then add half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, half a pound oi' currants, and a little nutmeg. Brandy may be added, which flavors them nicely ; or, if preferred, a few drops of essence of lemon or almonds. Egg Sandwiches. — Hard boil some very fresh eggs, and, when cold, cut them into moderately thin slices, and lay them between some bread and butter cut as thin as possible ; season them well with pep- per, salt, and nutmeg. For picnic parties, or when one is travelling, these sandwiches are far preferable to hard-boiled eggs au nahirel.' Preserving Eggs. — In order to keep well, eggs must be perfectly fresh when packed. Take a stone pot wliich will hold three gallons ; pack the eggs BUTTEE, CHEESE AND EGGS. 307 closely, sharp end down. Suit one pint of un- slacked lime, and dissolve it in sufficient water to cover the eggs. When cold, pour it over them, be- ing sure no eggs float. Egg Omelette. — Scald one pint of new milk ; into this stir the yelks of five eggs, and a table- spoonful each of sugar and flour. Beat the whites of the eggs till stiff, and add to the yelks ; beat all well together, and bake in a quick oven. Buttered Eggs. — Four eggs, well beaten ; three tablespoon fuls of cream or rich unskimmed milk, a little grated tongue or ham, pepper, salt, and thiee ounces of butter. Put all the ingredients, excepting the eggs, into a stewpan and heat ; when quite hot, add the eggs, and stir while cooking till quite thick. Spread upon buttered toast, and serve hot. Bacon Omelette. — Either simply mince some cold boiled bacon, and mix it with eggs which have been spiced and well beaten ; or take some raw bacon, chop it well, toss it in a frying-pan till nicely browned, and then pour the beaten eggs upon it ; or, place the tossed bacon upon some eggs that you nave just poured into a frying-pan ; when set, fold the omelette, and serve with a tomato sauce in the dish. Kidney Omelette. — Remove all skin, fat, and sinew from a fresh kidney, whether sheep's or calf's. Cut it small, season it well, and fry it quickly in hot butter. Beat six eggs together with a glassful of 308 BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS. white M'ine ; heat a little butter in the frying-pan, pour in the eggs, and before they are regularly set place the kidney in the middle; turn in the ends of the omelette and serve ; garnish with thin slices of lemon quartered. Omelette aux Croutons. — Beat the yelks of six and the whites of four eggs ; season with salt and spice according to taste. Cut some nice little pieces of bread no larger than dice; fry them in butter till they are well browned, then throw them quickly into boiling gravy or milk, or sauce of any particular flavor; mix them with the beaten egg, and fry as an ordinary omelette. CHAPTER X. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Bread. — Sot your sponge over night with one- half pint of lukewarm water, one teacupful of yea^t, and one pint of flour (measure before sifting). In the morning warm half a cup of milk (or water with a little butter in it), and stir into the sponge wnth one tablespoonful of lime-water, and one and one-half pint of flour. Knead into two loaves and put them in your pans to rise, they will bake in about half an hour. Rolls and Bread (Superior). — Sift three quarts of flour. Take two eggs, one teacupful and a half of liquid yeast, two pints of lukewarm water, one tablespoonful of brown sugar, one of salt, and four handfuls of flour taken from the measured flour. Beat the eggs .very light, and make these ingredients into a smooth batter. After the batter is well beaten, divide the remaining flour into two equal parts, and put one part of the flour into a tin pan or bucket, pour in the batter, and cover it with the remainder of the flour. Set it in a moderately warm place, and, in an hour and a half, or when light, turn the whole out and work it well. It may require more flour in kneading it. Work it quickly, 3U9 310 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. but not until it is cold, and set it to rise again, rub- bing a little lard over the top of the dough. In three or four hours it will be ready to knead over again, and, after it has risen a second time, it is ready for baking in a quick oven. If you wish rolls, work in a spoonful of lard durmg the last kneading, and mould the dough into small cakes. Do not keep the dough too warm, and it will be more flaky. If you wish a smaller loaf of bread, use only a pint and a half of water in making up the batter, but do not diminish the other ingre- dients. Bread Receipt. — Take three pints of warm water, one tablespoonful of lard, one teacupful of warm yeast ; thicken with flour to form a dough. Let it stand to rise, then work into loaves. Let it rise fifteen or twenty minutes, then bake about three-quarters of an hour. Wheaten Bread. — One spoonful of hop yeast, two potatoes boiled, and one pint of water ; make a sponge, and when light, or sufficiently raised, mix hard and let rise, and when it is light again, mould it over, and bake while light. Another way. — Grate half a dozen potatoes, and add one quart of water ; put in one cup of hop yeast at night, and in the morning, when light, add three teaspoonfuls of sugar, and flour to form a dough. Let it rise; when light, put it in tins; let it rise again, and bake for half an hour. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 311 Potato Bread. — Take four or five good mealy potatoes, and after boiling, peel and masli well ; add a large spoonful of flour and enough hot water to make a thin batter; when cool enough, add a small (pmntity of good yeast and a spoonful of -sugar; set to rise in a moderately warm place, say by the stove o\- fire-place ; it rises very c^uickly. When risen, take two large spoonfuls of it for a pint and a half of flour, a small spoonful of lard or butter, a half pint of milk, and hot water enough to make into a stiff batter, (over night ;) beat well ; next morn- ing work it well into a smooth dough and make into rolls or loaves ; set in a warm place to rise again, and bake in a quick oven. Do not forget a teaspoonful of salt and one of yeast powders sifted in the dry flour that you wofk into the batter in the morning ; a tin bucket is best, with a tight cover, and a towel between it and bucket. If your flour is good, there is no better receipt than this; no hops are needed. Homemade Bread. — Save a gill of bread dough made with hop yeast, cover it tightly and place it in a cool room or cellar until baking day; then make a sponge of it by adding warm water and flour, and a good teaspoonful of sugar. This should be done early in the morning. When the sponge is very light, mix the bread as usual with warm milk, or water, and a teaspoonful of soda or saler- atus, and when light, bake This always insures ,M2 BREAD, RISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Jiglit, sweet bread, and entirely does away with yeast making. Of course, a piece of dough must be saved out each time. Premium Rye Bread. — One quart of Indian meal, one quart of rye meal, one quart of wheat flour, one teacup of yeast, one teaspoon of salt. Make a thick batter with warm milk ; pour into pans and let it rise. Bake until well done. Rice Bread. — Boil half a pound of rice in three pints of water till the whole becomes thick and pulpy. With this, and yeast, and six pounds of flour, make your dough. In this way, it is said, as much bread will be made as if eight pounds of flour, without rice, had been used. Corn Bread. — One quart of sour milk, one tablespoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of salt, one cup of molasses or brown sugar, three large cups of corn meal, and three of flour. Mix well, and bake in a slow oven at least two hours. Brown Bread. — One quart of corn meal, wet thoroughly with boiling water ; then add one quart of lukewarm water, one quart of raw corn meal, one quart of Graham flour, one tablespoonful of salt, four tablespoonfuls of good hop yeast, one tea- cupful of molasses ; mix thoroughly; when light, bake two hours in a moderately heated oven. Light Corn Bread. — One quart of boiled milk poured over one pint of corn meal, salt, three well beaten eggs, four tablespoonfuls of flour, half a BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 313 spoonful of soda, one of cream of tartar, and a little butter.. Corn Meal Bread. — Beat two eggs very light and mix thera with one pint of sour milk ; add a teaspoonful of soda, and stir in one pint of corn meal and one tablespoonful of melted butter. Beat it well, and bake in a quick oven. Graham Loaf. — Take one quart of warm water, one teacupful of good yeast, and one tablespoonful of salt. Put into a pan, make a stiff batter w ith flour, which has been sifted, and keep it very warm until it is light; then take flour, which has been half sifted, to thicken it, knead it well, but do not let it get cold; let it rise again. Then work it down, and put in one teacupful of sugar and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Knead it half an hour, put it in pans, and let it rise very light. Bake three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Graham Biscuit. — Two pints of buttermilk, half a pound of butter or lard, one teaspoonful of finely pulverized soda in the flour ; flour of desired quantity. Graham Crackers. — To flour sufficient to make a batter add two pints of cold water, quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of a teaspoonful of soda ; mix as stiff as can be worked. Cut out, pick with a fork, bake in a moderately hot oven. These crackers, with a cup of sweet cream, make a very light, wholesome meal for dyspeptics. :]]\ F5READ, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. % Graham Bread. — Graham flour. Tlie wheat imi.vt be of the best quality, and either run through a ginut-inill, or washed and dried before grinding. It should be ground rather coarser than common flour, and used without bolting. It takes more wetting than fine flour. For every loaf allow three large tablespoonfuls of molasses, one quart of wet- ting, a teaspoortful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of brewer's yeast. Mix the yeast, molasses, and salt in the wetting, add a half teaspoonful of soda, and mix in as much coarse flour as can possibly be stirred in with a spoon. Now knead the bread briskly, until it cleaves from the hand. Put the loaves in the pan, and pat it in place and shape. If made with homemade yeast, sponge the bread, and add the molasses and other wetting after the sponge rises. Knead until the dough cleaves from the hands ; set it in a warm place until it rises. When light, knead it again as before, and put it into the pans to rise. Add no flour after the first mix- ing ; the dough will not be stifi^ enough to form into loaves. Shape the loaves after they are in the pan with the hand. Italian Bread. — One pound of butter, one pound of powdered loaf sugar, one pound two ounces of flour, twelve eggs, half a pound of citron and lemon-peel. Mix as for pound cake. If the mix- ture begins to curdle, which it is most likely to do from the quantity of eggs, add a little of the flour. When the eggs are all used, and it is light, stir in BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 315 the remainder of the flour lightly. Bake it in long narrow tins, either papered or buttered, first put in a layer of the mixture, and cover it with the peel, cut in large thin slices. Proceed in this way until it is three parts full, and bake it in a moderate oven. Potato Bread. — There are many ways in which potato bread may be made, the most generally prac- ticed being to add hot mashed potatoes with wheat flour ; but potato bread proper is prepared by mak- ing use of potato meal and mashed potatoes only, adding one-fifth the quantity of water, with yeast and salt as for ordinary bread. This composition also makes excellent crumpets. A little butter in- troduced, and milk used instead of water, is a ma- terial improvement to potato bread. Indian Corn Bread. — One cup of sour milk, one cup of sweet milk, half a cup of lard, half a cup of molasses, one cup of wheat flour, four cups of Indian meal, one teaspoonful of saleratus, one tea- epoonful of salt. Steam it three hours. Scotch SeoRTBREAD.^-Take half a pound of fresh butter, one pound of flour, quarter of a pound of finely pounded loaf sugar ; work the butter into the sugar by degrees, then add the flour in small quantities. Knead it with the hand into either a rfjund or square tin about an inch thick. Prick all over with a fork, and mark neatly round the edges, and bake in rather a cool oven for half an hour. Common Corn Bread. — One pint of sifted corn 316 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. meal, a pinch of salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and a quarter of a cup of cream, two eggs. Add milk till it is a thin batter. Bake in deep tin pans. Or: A pint of sifted meal, one egg, a teaspoonful of soda, and a heaped one of cream of tartar, a little salt, a bit of butter half the size of an egg, and the same of lard ; thin this with milk, so that it will pour quite freely. Bake just twenty minutes. Genuine Scottish Shortbread. — Take two pounds fine flour, one pound fresh butter, half pound fine sifted sugar. Thoroughly knead these together without one drop of water (the prevailing mistake is to add more or less water), roll out the cake to half an inch in thickness, and place it over paper in a shallow tin, and fire slowly until of proper crisp- ness. It is usual to insert in upper surface a few caraway confections and small pieces of orange-peel. Good cake should be most brittle — Scotice, "short," — hence its name. Shortbread. — One pound of flour, half a pound of fresh butter, three ounces of powdered lump sugar. Thoroughly mix the flour and sugar. Place your butter in the middle of the pasteboard, and j)ile round it the mixed flour and sugar, which you must gradually and thoroughly work into the butter. When you have worked it smooth, roll it out. Cut in the form you wish, pinch round the edges, and put some caraway comfits or citron on the top. Bake in a very slow oven. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 317 Dinner Rolls. — One pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, one tablespoonful of good yeast, one egg, a little warm milk. Rub the butter into the flour, then add the yeast, breaking in one egg. Mix in with a little warm milk poured into the middle of the flour ; stir all well together, and set it by the firo to rise ; then make it into light dough, and again set it by the fire. Make up the rolls, lay them on a tin, and set them in front of the fire for ten minutes before you put them into the oven, brushing them over with egg. French Rolls. — Work one pound of butter into a pound of flour ; put to it one beaten egg, two tablespoonfuls of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, and as much warm milk as will make a soft dough ; strew flour over it ; cover it with a cloth and set it in a warm place for an hour or more, until light ; flour your hands well ; make it in small rolls ; bake in a quick oven. Pennsylvania Rusk. — Two pounds of flour, one pint of good new milk, two spoonfuls of good yeast ; set the sponge to rise over night. Early in the morning add a little salt, two large spoonfuls of pulverized white sugar (brown will answer), three large spoonfuls of butter, two well-beaten eggs, and half a nutmeg ; add flour until it is the consistency of bread. Knead it well for fifteen or twenty min- utes ; set it to rise again. When it has risen mould ilj,9i}t, into cakes about the size of a small hen i egg ; 318 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. place them in a large iron pan a little distance apart; set them to rise. When they are well raised, beat the white of an egg with a little sugar, and brush them over the top. Bake them fifteen or twenty- minutes, not longer. If you do not have the very nicest of rusks after trying this receipt, you must try it over again, as it will certainly be your own fault. Tea Rusks. — Haifa pint of new milk, and one cup of hop yeast ; add flour to make a batter, and set the sponge at night. In the morning add half a pint of milk, one cup of sugar, one of butter, one egg, one nutmeg, and flour to make it sufficiently stiffi Let it rise, then roll it, and cut it out ; let it rise again, and then bake. Rusk. — One pint of milk, one teacupful of butter, one cup of sugar, one cup of yeast ; mix stifi*, and set in a warm place to rise three hours. Light Biscuits. — Put half a pound of butter into a basin and turn it about well with a spoon. Whisk six eggs well, add half a pound of powdered sugar, whisk another ten minutes, and then mix with the butter, after which stir in six ounces of cur- ranis, and an equal quantity of dried flour. After mixing these all well together, drop the mixture on paper, each about the size of a shilling, and bake in a quick oven, taking the biscuits off the paper while hot. Biscuits. — Take some of the bread dough in the BEEAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 319 morning, as much as would make a loaf of bread and add one cup of butter; mix well, let it rise^ and then make into biscuit. Let it rise again, and then bake. Butter Biscuits. — Dissolve half a pound of butter in half a pint of warm milk, and with four pounds of flour make up a smooth, stiif paste ; roll it out very thin, and cut with a tin or the top of a tumbler into shape ; prick the biscuits over with a fork, and bake on tins in a quick oven. Biscuit Cakes. — One pound of flour, five eggs, beaten and strained, eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or orange flower water; beat the whole well together, and bake it one hour. Cream Biscuits. — Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of powdered sugar, upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed pre- viously to pounding, and three whole eggs. Mix the eggs well with the sugar, and then mix all to- gether, forming a flexible paste. Cut it into round pieces, each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a butter stamp of the size of a half dollar, and bake them in a slack oven. German Cream Biscuits. — Take four ounces of butter, six ounces of powdered loaf sugar, seven ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of fresh cream, and one egg. Make the above into a dough, beat- ing it well ; then roll it out very thin, cutting it 21 '820 BREAD, BISCUIT, fJAKES AND YEAST. into square pieces two inches long and one broad Bake in a quick oven, and when done, they should be of a light yellow brown. Sour Cream Biscuit. — Sift a teaspoonful of salt and one of soda with a quart of flour in the bread- pan. Have ready a large pint of sour cream, beat one egg, add it to the cream, mix, roll, cut, and bake the biscuit as quickly as possible. Milk Biscuit. — Take one pound of flour, quar- ter of a pound of butter, eight tablespoonfuls of yeast, and half a pint of new milk. Melt the butter in the milk, put in the yeast and some salt, and work into a stiff paste. When light, knead it well, roll it out an inch thick, cut out with a tumbler, prick them with a fork, and bake in a quick oven. If butter is not abundant, you may take two ounces of lard and the rest Initter. Soda Biscuit. — One pint of buttermilk, two tablespoonfuls of sour cream, one teaspoonful of soda, three-quarters of a cup of lard. Make a very soft dough, and bake quickly in a hot oven. Potato Biscuits. — Xicely peel and steam four middling-sized potatoes, mash them, and pound them in a mortar. Moisten them with a little raw egg. When perfectly smooth, add to them sufficient loaf sugar to make them pretty sweet. Beat the whites of four eggs ti^ a snow, mix it with the pota- toes, etc., add a dessertspoonful of orange flower water, and when well mixed, place portions of the BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 321 preparation upon paper, to form either round or oblong biscuits. Bake thena slowly, and when of a fine color, they are done. Remove the paper when the biscuits are cold. Judge's Biscuits. — Having broken six eggs into a basin, whisk them well for five minutes. Put in half a pound of powdered sugar, and whisk again for ten minutes ; add some caraway seeds (if liked) and half a pound of dry, sifted flour, mixing all thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Drop the mix- ture on paper, each being about the size of a half dollar and high in the middle. Sift sugar over them and bake them. Remove them from the paper while they are hot. Abernethy Biscuits. — Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter in half a pint of warm milk, and with four pounds of fine flour, a few caraways, and half a pound of sugar, make a stiif, smooth paste ; and, to render the biscuits short and light, add half a drachm of powdered carbonate of soda. Roll out very thin, stamp the biscuit, prick each with a fork, and bake in tins in a quick oven. vSally Luxn. — Warm a quart of new milk with a quarter of a pound of butter and a tablespoonful of sugar, beat up three eggs and put tiiem i)>, with a little salt, and 'flour enough to make the dough a little stiff'er than pound cake. Boat all well together, add a teacupful of yeast. Let it rise eight hours, and bake in a quick oven. 322 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Sui^ERiOR Sally Lunn. — Three pints of flour, three teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, three ounces of butter, one cup of sugar, and a saltspoonful of salt. Mix all together dry, add four well beaten eggs and a dessertspoonful of soda, dissolved in a pint and a half of milk. Bake in a quick oven. Light Sally Lunn. — One pound of flour, one pint of milk, three well beaten eggs, salt, three ounces of butter, half a cup of baker's yeast. Set in pans to rise the usual time. Johnny Cakes, — Scald a quart of Indian meal with Avater enough to make a very thick batter, add two or three teaspoonfuls of salt, and mould it into small cakes with the hands. The hands must be well floured, or the batter will stick. Fry them in iiearly suflicient fat to cover them. When brown on the under side, turn them ; cook them about twenty minutes. When done, split and butter them. Indian Cakes. — Indian meal, two cupfuls ; wheat flour, one cupful ; cream, half gill ; white sugar, half pound ; five eggs ; new milk, half pint, a little salt, and a little baking soda. Bake in a quick oven. Short Cake. — One pound of flour, one pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, and a teaspoonful of caraway seeds. Spread on a tin sheet with an edge, and bake slow. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top. when it is taken from the oven. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 323 , Corn Cake. — A pint of buttermilk or sour milk, a pint of corn meal, one egg, a teaspoonful of soda, one of salt, two of sugar or molasses. Dissolve the soda in a little warm water and add it the last thing. Bake half an hour in a quick oven. Green Corn Cakes. — Grate the corn ; make a rich batter with cream, or according to directions given for batter cakes. Use just enough of the batter to hold the corn together, and lay the cakes on the griddle as you would a common griddle cake. Serve with butter. Soda Cake. — One cup of sugar, one teaspoon- ful of soda, one cup of sweet milk, one egg, one tablespoouful of butter, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Rice Cakes. — Take eight yelks and four whites of eggs, and beat to a foam ; add six ounces of powdered sugar, and the peel of one lemon grated ; then stir in half a pound of ground rice, and beat all together for half an hour. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake twenty minutes. This cake* is recommended as very easy of digestion. Muffins. — Strain into a pan a pint of warm milk and a quarter of a pint of thick yeast; add sufficient flour to make the whole into a batter, cover it over, and let it stand in a warm place to rise. Then add a quarter of a pint of warm milk and one ounce of butter rubbed in some flour quite fine. Mix these well together, and add flour 324 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. enough to make into dough. Cover, and let it stand for half an hour. Next work it up again and break it into small pieces, roll them into a round form, and cover them for a quarter of an hour. Lay them on an iron plate to bake, watching them carefully. When done on one side, turn to tlie other. German Waffles. — Half a pound of butter stirred to a cream ; the yelks of five eggs, stirred in a half pound of flour; half a piut of milk gradually stirred in, and lastly the white of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and beat into the batter. Very rich and delicious. Waffles. — (Simple receipt.) One pint of sour cream, one pint of flour, three eggs, half a spoonful of soda. Thin with a little sweet milk. Raised Waffles. — One quart of sweet milk a little warmed, four eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, a ten 'upful of yeast, flour enough to make a stiff batter; let it raise three hours; heat the iron hot before baking. Flannel cakes are baked the same way, but made thinner with milk and baked in small cakes on a griddle. Sometimes they are made with sour milk and soda in place of raising, but are neither as good nor healthy. Crumpets. — Set two pounds of flour, with a little salt, before the fire till quite warm. Then mix it with ^arm milk and water till it is as stiff BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 325 as it can be stirred ; let the milk be as warm as it can be borne with the finger; put a cupful of this witii three eggs well beaten and mixed with three spoonfuls of very thick yeast ; then put this to the batter and beat them all together in a large pan or bowl ; add as much milk and water as will make it into a thick batter; cover it close, and put it before the fire to rise; put a bit of butter in a piece of thin muslin, tie it up, and rub it lightly over the iron hearth or frying-pan; then pour on a sufficient quantity of batter at a time to make one crumpet; let it do slowly, and it will be very light. Bake them all the same way. They should not be brown, but of a fine yellow color. Corn Meal Muffins. — To one quart of corn meal add half a cup of melted lard, two eggs, a teaspoonful of soda, and salt to taste ; beat it to a stiff' batter with buttermilk, and bake in muffin rings by a brisk fire. '' ' Buttermilk Breakfast Cakes. — Two cups of buttermilk, or sour milk, one cup of sugar, one piece of butter the sice of a walnut, a teaspoonful of saleratus, spice to taste, and as much flour as will make a thin batter. Bake on a griddle, or stiffen the batter and bake in a pan in a quick oven. Breakfast Short Cakes. — One pound of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, a few caraway seeds, quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, a tea- spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in a teacup 326 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. of warm milk. Mix well ; stand for fifteen minutes before the fire ; roll out ; cut into rounds ; bake in a quick oven. Hominy Breakfast Cakes. — A pint of small hominy, a pint of white Indian meal, sifted, a salt- spoonful of salt, three large tablespoonfuls of fresh butter, three eggs, or three tablespoonfuls of strong yeast, one quart of milk. Soak the hominy all night, boil it till soft; drain; mix with the meal, and while hot add the salt and butter. Mix gradu- ally in the milk and stand till cool. Beat the eggs light and stir in gradually. Beat all together to a stiff batter, and bake on a griddle. Breakfast Waffles. — One quart of sweet milk, nine well beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk and strained, and two of cream of tartar sifted with the flour. Make the batter as thick as pound cake. Serve with maple syrup, or cream and sugar. Breakfast Johnny Cake. — One cup of flour, three cups of meal, one cup of molasses, two cups of sweet milk, one of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, and one of salt. Bake one hour in a sponge cake tin. Frif:d Breakfast Cakes. — One and a half cup of sour milk, one cup of sugar, four tabldlpoonfuls of melted butter, three eggs, one tablespoonful of Boda, flour enough to roll out. Fry in hot lard. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 327 Breakfast Puffs. — One teacupful of milk, one egg, a little salt, one teacupful of flour; bake in plain tins in a quick oven. Coffee Cake. — Melted butter one pint, white sugar two pounds, mace quarter of an ounce, a tea- cupful of yeast, one quart of milk. Add flour suf- ficient to make a stiff batter. Beat a little, then set it in a warm place to rise ; that is, make it up at night and let it rise until morning. Then add one pound of raisins, work well through, and half fill your cake moulds. Let them bake half an hour in a hot oven. Virginia Breakfast Cakes. — One pint of sweet milk, two eggs, one tablespoonful of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Take two eggs and beat them well, melt the butter in the milk, then pour the eggs into the milk, add the salt and yeast. Beat enough In- dian meal into it to make it the consistency of pound cake. Set them to rise two hours, and bake in bread pans. Breakfast Soda Cake. — One pound of flour, dried, quarter of a pound of butter, beaten to a cream, six ounces of moist sugar, half a pound of currants, two ounces of mixed peel, a few drops of essence of almonds, half a pint of milk. When these are well mixed, add a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda mixed with a tablespoonful of warm milk. 328 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Give all a good stir. Put in a well-buttered tin ; bake an hour and a half. Fhench Breakfast Rolls. — Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour ; mix one egg, beaten, a little yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk as will make a dough of a middling stiffness. Beat it well, but do not knead ; let it rise and bake on tins. BiiEAKFAST Sally Lunn.^ — One quart of flour, four eggs, one gill of yeast, and a little salt ; mix with milk to a stiff batter; add a piece of butter melted. Pour it into your baking tins and let it rise over night. Light Breakfast Rolls. — Two quarts of flour, one pint of milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Bake it im- mediately. Breakfast Rolls. — Take one pint and a half of flour, one large teas])oonful of soda, a small quantity of lard. Mix with sour buttermilk. Bake immediately. French Tea Cakes. — Beat ten eggs to a high froth ; dissolve half a teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar in hot water, and let it stand to cool ; then put it with the eggs, and beat them for ten minutes ; add four ounces of powdered loaf sugar and the same of fine flour ; put the mixture in square tins, and bake in a quick oven. Tea Cakes. — One pound of butter, one pound of BREAD, nrscurr, cykes axd yeast. 329 !=n rar, (nux batter and sugar together,) two eggs, two and a quarter pouuds of flour, but if too thin, add a jittle more. Season to taste; roll thin, and bal<(^ brown. German Tea Cakes. — Into eight ounces of flour rub four ounces of butter. Mix eight ounces of currants, six ounces of fine sugar, two yelks of eggs, one white of egg, and a teaspoonful of brandy ; make a stiff paste of these ingredients and roll out the thickness of a biscuit. Cut into rounds with a wineglass, that they may round up on the top. Brush with the white of the second egg, well beaten,. dust with sugar and bake. Pennsylvania Tea Cake. — The yelks of six eggs, and whites of two ; thi'ee quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, half a pound of butter, one teaspoon- ful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of vinegar. Beat all well together in a deep pan, then add sifted flour gradually till a stiff paste is formed, knead and roll out. Cut into biscuit and bake in a mode- rate oven. Plain Tea Cake. — A half cup of butter, two of sugar ; work the sugar and butter together, add four beaten eggs ; three teacups of sifted flour, au even teaspoonful of soda dissolved and strained, ground coriander seed, and lastly a teacup of sour milk. Superior Tea Cakes. — ^To each pound of flour allow a dessertspoonful of bread-powder, one egg 330 BEEAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. and half a pint of cream or new milk, half a tea- spoonful of suet, and two teaspoonfuls of loaf sugar, powdered. Rub the dry things well to- gether, then quickly mix in, fii'st the cream and then the egg. Bake quickly in buttered tins. If yeast be preferred, the milk should be a little warmed, and strained through the yeast, as for bread. Add the egg last. Let the dough stand to rise, then bake half an hour in a quick oven. Simple Tea Cakes. — Two pounds of flour, two spoonfuls of yeast, made into a dough with warm milk. When ready (as for bread) to make into cakes, mix well two ounces of butter and two ounces of sifted sugar ; let the cake stand to rise, brush over with milk, and bake in a quick oven. Lemon Tea Cakes. — One pint of flour, into which put two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar; one cup of sweet milk, into which put one teaspoon- ful of soda. Two tablespoonfuls of butter and one cup of sugar mixed well together ; then break into it two eggs; add milk and flour; flavor with grated rind and juice of a lemon. Cakes. Hints for Making and Baking Sweet Cakes. — Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yelks separated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, the bad ones may be easily rejected without spoiling BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 331 the others, and so cause no waste. As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be very thor- oughly whisked ; they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick enough to carry the drop that falls from the whisk. Loaf sug^r should be well pounded, then sifted through a fine sieve. Currants should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, and then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be left amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire, to become thoroughly dry ; as, if added to the other damp ingredients, cakes will be liable to be heavy. Good butter should always be used in the manu- facture of cakes ; and if beaten to a cream, it saves much time and labor to warm, but not melt, it before beating. Less butter and eggs are required for cakes when yeast is mixed with the other ingredients. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large cakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the butter will not rise. If the oven is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning or catching, put a sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paper that has been printed on, should never be used for this purpose. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knife into the middle of it; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the least sticky, put the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake ib done. 332 bread, biscuit, cakes and yeast. Plum Cake, Rich Tound Cake, Twelfth, OR Bride Cakes. — The following table will give the ingredients necessary for cakes of different sizes : — Ingredients. 1 2 3 4 5 6 lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. lb. oz. Butter 11 13 11 14 16 2 1 Sugar 7 08 10 12 10 16 Currants 14 16 1 10 2 2 8 .3 12 Orange, lemon and | ^ g „ ^ ^ g ^ ^^ q ^2 12 citron (mixed) j Almonds U 2 2 3 3 4 Mixed spices OJ 0| 1 li Flour 11 13 11 14 16 2 1 Eggs (number) 6 7 9 10 12 18 Brandy, or brandy 1 ^^r- i r i i ^ j-^ '. •' Y Wincglassful fpt. and wine J These proportions allow for the cake being iced. If more sugar is preferred, the quantity must be the same as the butter ; but less is used in this instance, that the cake may be light, and also to allow for the fruit, which would make it too sweet. Double the quantity of almonds may be used if required, as some persons prefer more. Warm a smooth pan, large enough for the mixture ; put in the butter, and reduce it to a fine cream, by working it about the pan with your hand. In summer the pan need not be warmed, as it can be reduced to a cream without; but in winter keep the mixture as warm as possible, without oiling the butter. Add the sugar and mix it well with butter, until it becomes white and feels iight in the hand. Break in two or three eggs at a time, and work the mixture well, before any more is added. Continue doing this until they are all used and it becomes light ; then add the spirit, cur- BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AxVD YEAST. 333 rants, peel, spice, and almonds, some or most of these being previously cut in thin slices, the peel having also been cut into small thin strips and bits. When these are incorporated, mix in the flour lightly ; put it in a hoop with paper over the bottom and round the sides, and place on a baking-plate. Large cakes require three or four pieces of stiff paper round the sides ; and if the cake is very large, a pipe or funnel, made either of stiff paper or tin, and well buttered, should be put in the centre, and the mixture placed round it; this is to allow the middle of the cake to be well baked, otherwise the edge would be burnt two or three inches deep before it could be properly done. Place the tin plate con- taining the cake on another, the surface of which is covered an inch or two thick with sawdust or fine ashes to protect the bottom. Bake it in an oven at a moderate heat. The time required to bake it will depend on the state of the oven and the size of the cake. A large cake in an oven of a proper heat will take from four to five hours. When the cake is cold, proceed to ice it. Wedding cakes have generally, first, a coating on the to]) of almond icing ; when this is dry, the sides and top are covered with royal or white icing. Fix on any gum p^ste or other or- naments whilst it is wet ; and when dry, ornament it with piping, orange-blossoms, ribbon, etc. ; the sur- face and sides are often covered with small knobs of white sugar candy whilst the icing is wet. Twelfth cakes are iced with white or colored icing, and 334 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. decorated with gum paste, plaster ornaments, piping- paste, rings, knots, and fancy pajjcrs, etc., and piped. Rock Cakes. — A pound of currants cleaned and dried, the same quantity of flour well dried, hulf a pound of powdered sugar, half a. pound of butter, the yelks of eight eggs and the whites of six. Mix the whole well together, having first beaten the batter to a cream ; drop the paste in small quanti- ties on buttered paper, and bake on tins in a quick oven. Love Cakes. — Three eggs, five ounces of sugar, six ounces of flour, salt, mace, or rose water, to be dropped, and sugar sprinkled on before baking. In cake making every article employed therein should be ready one hour previous to their being wanted, and should be placed before the fire or upon a stove, that they may become gently heated, with- out which no good cakes can be produced. Cakes keep best in tin canisters; wooden boxes, unless well seasoned, are apt to give them a dis- agreeable taste ; brown paper should be avoided for the same reason. Buns. — One pound of flour, quarter pound of sugar, quarter pound of butter, quarter pound of currants, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, six eggs. The salts to be dissolved in a little cold milk, and put in last. Drop on tins and bake. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 335 Bath Buns. — Haifa pound of flour, six ounces of butter, two eggs, and a little white sugar and yeast. Mix and bake in small tins ; rub over with white of egg. Rich Buns. — Mix one pound and a half of fluiir with half a pound of sugar, melt a pound and two ounces of butter in a little warm water, add six spoonfuls of rose water, and knead the above into a light dough, with half a pint of yeast. Then mix five ounces of caraway comfits in, and put some on them. Ground Rice Buns. — Beat three eggs well to a froth, quarter of a pound of butter, melted, half a pound of sugar, browned or crushed lump, quarter of a pound of ground rice, and a few drops of either essence of almonds or lemon. To be baked in small paste tins. They are soon baked. Spanish Buns. — Take one pound of fine flour, rub into it half a pound of butter, add half a pound of sugar, the same of currants, a little nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon. Mix it with five eggs, well beaten. Make this up into small buns, and bake them on tins twenty minutes. When half done, brush them over with a little hot milk. Excellent Spanish Bun. — Take one pound of fine flour, rub into it half a pound of butter, add half pound of sugar, the same of currants, a little nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon ; mix it with five eggs, well beaten. Make this up into small buns, and 22 336 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND VEAST. bake them on tins twenty minutes. When half done, brush them" over with a little hot milk. Children's Cake. — Rub a quarter of a pound of butter, or good, fresh, clean beef dripping, into two pounds of flour ; add half a pound of pounded sugar, one pound of currants, well washed and dried, half an ounce of caraway seeds, a quarter of an ounce of pudding spice or allspice, and mix all thoroughly. IMake warm a pint of new milk, but do not let it get hot. Stir into it three table- spoonfuls of good yeast, and with this liquid make up your dough lightly, and knead it well. Line your cake tins with buttered paper, and put in the dough. Let it remain in a warm place to rise for an hour and a quarter, or more, if necessary, and then bake in a well heated oven. This quantity will make two moderately-sized cakes ; thus divided, they will take from an hour and a half to two hours baking. N. B. Let the paper inside your tins be about six inches higher than the top of the tin itself. Molasses Drop Cakes; — One cup of molasses, one half cup of butter, one h.alf cup of water, three cups of flour, two teaspoonfuls of ginger, one of soda. Beat the ingredientij well together, and drop with a spqon in a buttered tin. Bake quick. Molasses Cup Cake. — Two cups of molasses, two cups of butter, three eggs, one-third of a cup BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 337 of cold water, and one tablespoonful of soda; then bake. CORNSTAECH Cake. — Stir to a froth three-quar- ters of a pound of butter and one pound of pow- dered sugar; add one half cup of sweet cream and the whites of nine eggs, beaten very light. Take from a pound package of cornstarch two tablespoon- fuls, and replace it with the same quantity of wheat flour and add it to the above. Flavor with lemon. Soda Cake. — Half a pound of butter, half a pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, four eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, and the rind of one lemon, grated. Beat the eggs for twenty minutes, the yelks and whites separately, melt the butter, and add the ingredients to it separately, heating them all the time. Bake for two and a half hours in a moderate oven. Rye Drop Cakes. — One pint of milk, three eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar, and a little salt. Stir in rye flour till about the consistency of pan- cakes. Bake in buttered cups or saucers half an hour. Good Peain Cake. — Two pounds of flour, three dessertspoonfuls of baking powder, one pound of loaf sugar, powdered, one pound of currants, quar- ter of a pound of raisins, cut small, twelve ounces of butter, four eggs, and a pint of milk ; candied orange and lemon-pccl to taste. Bake two hours and a half in rather a slow oven. S38 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Children's Loaf Cake. — Five cups of dongli, two of sugar, one of butter, caraway seed, ground, and two eggs. Line pans with buttered paper, and bakejas soon as light. Use homemade yeast. Cheap Cake. — One pint of flour, one egg, one cup of sugar, butter as large as the bowl of a spoon, milk to make stiff as ponnd cake, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half teaspoonful of soda. French Cake. — Five eggs, weight of five egga in flour, weight of five eggs in sugar, weight of three eggs in butter. Beat until light, then add one teacu]ifiil of raisins. Bake in a quick oven. Thick Gingerbread. — One quart of molasses, quarter of a pound of butter, quarter of a pound of coarse brown sugar, a pound and a half of flour, one ounce of ginger, half an ounce of ground allspice, a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, quarter of a pint of warm milk, and three eggs. Put the flour into a bread-pan with the sugar, ginger and allspice ; mix these together ; warm the butter, and add it with the molasses, to the other ingredients. Stir well ; warm the milk and dissolve the carbonate of soda in it; beat the eggs light, and mix the whole into a smooth dough. Pour the mixture into a butfered tin and bake about one hour in a moderate oven. Just before it is done, brush the top with the yelk of an eg<^ beaten in a little milk, and replace it in the oven to glaze. Soft Gingerbread. — Two cups of butter, two BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 339 cup.s of sugar, two cups of molasses, one cup of milk, four eggs, a teaspoouful of pearlash, fiv^e cups of flour, two tablespoonfuls of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of allspice, one teaspoouful of cin- namon. Ginger Biscuits.— Rub half a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of fine flour, add half a pound of sifted sugar, and three ounces of pounded ginger. Beat up the yelks of three eggs, and take a little milk, with which make the above ingredients into a paste. Knead it all well together, and roll it out extremely thin, and cut it into the form of round biscuits with a paste-cutter. Bake them in a slow oven until crisp, taking care that they are a pale brown color. GiNGERSNAPS. — One quarter of a pound of butter, and the same of lard, mixed in a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, a pint of West India molasses, ginger according to its strength, and cinnamon according to taste; add one quart of flour, two teaspoonfuls of soda, dissolved in a wineglass of milk and flour, to enable you to roll it thin. Bake in a moderate oven. Gingerbread. — One cup of molasses, one of sugar, one of milk, three eggs, four cups of flour, one small cup of butter, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of soda, ginger, and cloves. Almond Peppernuts. — Half a pound of loaf BOgar, and three eggs ; beat together half an hour. 340 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Pound two ounces of blanched almonds very fine> chop an ounce of citron as fine as possible, grate in the yellow rind of a lemon, add cinnamon, nutmeg, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of bUnk pepper, half a teaspoonful of cloves, and seven and a half ounces of flour. Measure and shape the dough in a tea- spoon, and bake in a moderate oven. Pepperxuts. — Take four eggs, beat them light, with one pound of sugar ; then take half a pound of butter, beat it up with the eggs and sugar; one gill of milk, one nutmeg, half an ounce of saleratus, and flour enough to make a dough stiff to roll out. Lemon Drop Cakes. — One pound and a quarter of flour, three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, six ounces of fresh butter, four eggs, one ounce of lemon-peel, two dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice. Rub the flour and butter well together ; powder the sugar and stir it in with the lemon-peel grated ; when these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, beaten light, and lastly the lemon-juice. Beat the mixture well together; drop it from a spoon on a buttered sheet of tin, leaving two inches space for each cake to spread ; when warm place the tin in the oven, and bake twenty minutes. The cakes should be a pale brown. Superior Lemon Cake. — One cup of butter, three cups of sugar, the yelks of three eggs ; dissolve a teaspoonful of saleratus in a teacup of milk j add BREAJ), BISCUI':^, CAKES AND YEAST. 341 'the grated peel of one lemon, and the whites of throe eggs, and sift in, as light as possible, four teacups of flour. Lemon Cake. — Beat six eggs, the yelks and whites separately, till in a solid froth ; add to the yelks the grated rind of a fine lemon and six ounces of sugar dried and sifted; beat this a quarter of an hour; shake in with the left hand six. ounces of dried flour; then add the whites of the eggs and the juice of the lemon ; when these are well beaten in, put it immediately into tins, and bake it about an hour in a moderately hot oven. Lemon Cheesecakes. — Rasp the rind of a large lemon with four ounces of fine sugar, then crush and mix it with the yelks of three eggs, and half the quantity of whites, well whisked ; beat these together thoroughly ; add to them four tabl'espoonfuls of cream, a quarter of a |)ound of oiled butter, the strained juice of the lemon, which must be stirred quickly in by degrees, and a little orange flower brandy. Line some patty-pans with the puff-paste, half fill them with the mixture, and bake them thirty minutes in a moderate oven. Orange Cheesecakes are made as in the last receipt, except that oranges are substituted for tlie lemons. A few tiiin slices of candied lemon or orange-peel may be laid on the cheesecakes before baking. Sweet Macaroon. — One pound and a half of 342 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. crushed sugar, one pound and a half of grated almonds, the whites of four eggs, and the skin of a lemon. The almonds, sugar, and peel are beaten for some time with the thick froth of tlie eggs ; in the meantime have ready a hot tin plate d of pulverized loaf sugar, and one pound of sweet butter, free from salt and water, worked with the sugar to a light cream ; one teaspoonful extract of lemon, and tlie same of vanilla, the whites of twenty eggs, beat stiff, and lastly one pound of flour, stirred in lightly. BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 351 Bake immediately in round pans, and frost it before cold. The frosting, if flavored, should have the same extracts as the cake. It should not be cut fresh. Bitter Almond Cake. — Three cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one of sweet milk, five of flour, the whites of twelve eggs, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda; flavor with bit- ter almonds ; to be frosted or not. Stevens Cake. — Six cups flour, four of molas- ses, one and a half cup butter, two and one-third cups milk, two cups currants, four eggs, two nut- megs, one large spoonful saleratus, and a little cinnamon. Good Boy's Cake. — One cup^f butter beaten to a cream, two cups of light sugar, four eggs beaten separate, three cups of flour, one cup of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, 'add a little extract of lemon ; bake one hour. Cup Cake. — One cup of butter, two cups of "white sugar, four of flour, one cup of sweet milk, five eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of. tartar. Traveller's Cake. — One coffeecup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter (not melted), one tea- cup of sweet milk, the whites of two eggs (or one whole egg, if you do not want it very delicate), two coffeecups of flour, one teaspoonful of cream of tar- tar, half teaspoonful of soda. 23 352 BREAD, BLSCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. Apple Cake. — Take two cups of dried apples, stew just enough to cut easily, chop about as fiue as raisins, and simmer in two cups of molasses three hours, one cup of sugar, one cup of sour raillc, one of butter, two eggs, five cups of flour, two teaspoon- fuls of soda, some salt, cloves, and cinnamon. Mix with molasses warm. Put apples and molasses in before the flour. Bake in large cake dishes; it makes one large one, or two small ones. Pippin Cake.: — Flour one pound, sugar half a pound, two eggs, a little salt, and one yeast powder. Grate six large apples, and rub them well into the other ingredients; add milk suiBcientto make a dough, cut into thin cakes, and bake quickly. Gateau de> Pommes. — Take a fev/ apples, boil them with as little water as possible, and make them into apple-sauce, then add one and a half pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon ; boil all together till quite firm, and put it into a mould. Garnish it with almonds stuck over it. It will keep for many months if allowed to remain in the mould. School Cake. — Half pound dried flour, one- fourth pound fresh butter, one-fourth pound sifted loaf sugar ; mix the flour and sugar together, then rub in the butter and yelk of an egg beaten with a tablespoon to a cream ; make into a paste, roll and cut into small round cake; bake upon floured tin. SuGAB Cake. — Three pounds of flour, one pound of butter, one teaspoonful of pearlash dissolved in BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 353 half a pint of water. Put in the water a pound and a half of sugar, rub the flour and butter together, roll thin, and bake in a quick oven. Black Cake. — One pound of sugar, one of browned flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter, twelve eggs, one pint of molasses, one glass of wine, one of brandy, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one of mace, two nutmegs, two pounds of raisins, two of currants, one of citron, one tablespoonful of soda, two tablespoonfuls of cream of tartar, one pinch of black pepper. Dredge the fruit in flour and put in last. Arrowroot Biscuits. — Rub together three- quarters of a pound of sugar, the same weight of but- ter. Beat three eggs well and mix with this ; stir in two cups of sifted arrowroot, and two cups of sifted flour. "When well kneaded, roll out thin, cut round, and bake on buttered tins in a slow oven. Marble Cake— The White CaJce.—^Yh\tes of seven eggs, one cup of butter, two cups of sugar, half a cup of sweet milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, one of cream of tartar, three cups of flour. Bake two hours in a slow oven. The Dark Cake. — The yelks of seven eggs, one cup of molasses, two cups of brown sugar, half a cup of butter, spice to taste, one cup of sweet oiilk, one teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of tartar, five cups of flour. This makes two good-sized cakes by putting in 354 BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. first a spoonful of white and then a spoonful of black, and the next layer alternate. Railroad Cake. — One cup of white sugar, one cup of flour, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, three eggs, one teaspoonful of essence of lemon. All ingredients stirred in together, and baked in a long narrow tin. Josephine Cake. — Two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one nutmeg grated, a little leraon-peel, three table- spoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of cream, iwo cups of milk, four cupfuls of flour, four eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Bake half an hour. Eat hot, with fresh butter. Jenny Lind Cake. — Half cup of sugar, three cups of flour, two of milk, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one of soda, a little salt. Bake twenty minutes. Jefferson Cake. — Butter, one pound ; sugar, ooe pound ; flour, two pounds ; a little salt ; soda, quarter of an ounce; one grated nutmeg, a little cinnamon, and milk sufficient to form a dough. Cut into cakes, and bake. Apple Cheesecake. — Peel, core, and boil some apples till they are quite soft, with a few cloves and some lemon-peel. The saucepan in which they are boiled will only require about a tablespoonful of water at the bottom to keep the apples from burn- BREAD, BISCUIT, CAKES AND YEAST. 355 ing. AVhen they are soft, remove the lemon-peel and cloves, and beat them up in the saucepan with moist sugar and a little piece of butter. Cut up some candied peel, and add to the apples with cur- rants in the proportion of a quarter of a pound to one pound of apples. Mix well together, and let the mixture stand till quite cold. Line a dish or patty-pan with light paste, fill with the apple, and bake. CocoANUT Cheesecakes. — Grate the cocoanut according to the quantity you wish to make (on a fine grater,) weigh it, and add the same quantity of butter, with two ounces of loaf sugar, and the yelk of an egg to every ounce of the cocoanut, a large W;i -k' BouiLLiEOF Boiled Flour. — Instead of baked flour, boiled flour may be used. It is prepared as follows : Tie up a pound of flour tightly in a linen cloth, and boil it for five hours. Peel off the outer rind. A tablespoonful of the inside must be finely grated, and used for bouillie, in the following man INVALID CXDOKERY. 411 ner : Take of the grated boiled flour one table- epoonful, and mix smoothly with a little water in a basin. Then pour upon it, gradually, one pint of milk that has simmered, and mix all well together. Pour into a saucepan and boil gently for ten minutes, or rather longer. Add a few grains of salt and sweeten with loaf sugar. Glycerin and Yelk of F,gg. — The Phila- delphia Journal of Pliarmacy has made known a formula for a preparation which is likely to prove valuable for external use. Four parts, by weight, of yelk of egg are to be rubbed in a mortar with five parts of glycerin. The compound has the consistence of honey, and is unctuous like fatty substances, over which it has the advantage of be- ing easily removed by water. It is unalterable, a specimen having laid exposed to the air for three years unchanged. Applied to the skin, it forms a varnish which effectually prevents the action of air. These properties render it serviceable for broken surfaces of all kinds, particularly erysipelas and cutaneous affections, of which it allays the itching. • jV\''lNE Whey. — Boil a pint of new milk, add to it a glass or two of white wine, put it on the fire until it just boils again, then set it aside until the curd settles, pour off the clean whey ; sweeten to the taste. Cider is as good as wine to curdle, if it is good apple cider. Arrowroot Pap with Milk. — Put into a 412 INVALID COOKERY. saucepan, to boil, one pint of milk ; stir very smoothly, into a cup of cold milk, a dessertspoonful of arrowroot ; when the milk boils, stir in the arrow- root ; continue to stir until it is cooked, which will be in five or ten minutes; remove from the fire, sweeten and flavor to the taste. Port Wine Jelly. — A pint of port wine, one ounce and a half of isinglass, three-quarters of an ounce of gum-arabic, four ounces and a half of powdered loaf sugar; stand it on the hob until dis- solved ; when cold it is fit for use. Orange Jelly. — Grate the rind of two oranges and two lemons, squeeze the juice of three of each and strain, and add the juice of a quarter of a pound of lump sugar and a quarter of a pint of water, and boil till it almost candies. Have ready a quart of isinglass jelly made with two ounces ; put to it the syrup and boil it once up ; strain off the jelly, and let it stand to settle before it is put into the mould. Porter Jelly. — Half an ounce of isinglass to a quart of porter ; put into the oven till dissolved ; strain and sweeten to your taste. When cold it will jelly. Sago Jelly. — A teacupful of sago, boiled in three pints and a half of water till ready. When cold, add half a pint of raspberry syrup. Pour it into a shape which has been rinsed in cold water, and let it stand until it is sufficiently set to turn out INVALID COOKERY. 413 well. When dished, pour a little cream round it, if preferred. Gelatine. — This is prepared for jellies by soak- ing over night in very little water; allow one ounce for each quart of jelly. If the isinglass is not pure, it must be clarified. Mix, in half a pint of water, a teaspoonful of the white of egg and a little lemon- juice; beat well, and stir it into two ounces isin- glass, which is dissolved in half a pint of water; heat these together gradually, constantly stirring; remove all the scum, and pass it through a flannel jelly-bag. Jelly from Gelatine. — One ounce and a half of gelatine put over night into a pint of cold water, with the rinds and juice of three lemons. Next morning add a pint of boiling water, half a pint of sherry, the whites and shells of three eggs, and sweeten to your taste. Boil the whole ten minutes, and strain through a jelly-bag. This will make a quart of jelly. Be sure not to stir the mixture after it is placed on the fire. It is excellent. iq «1 aid CHAPTER XIII. MISCELLANEOUS. ""'A Bill of Fare. — Put the soup first ; always eat the melon immediately after ; then the fish ; then butcher's meat — beef, next mutton, next veal and lamb; then poultry, and last of all game. A roasted fish is served after the roast beef. VegetabU^s au suei'e are served after the other vegetables. Cheese is served before dessert. Tin-liued utensils for the kitchen are preferable to porcelain, because porce- lain cracks so easily. Copper is the best, if kept perfectly clean. For boiling milk, block-tin is the best. Always use a stone mortar, not a wooden one, and have a sharp-pointed knife for boning meat or fish. Coloring for Gravies and Ragouts. — Take four ounces of sugar (moist), and set it over the fire in a clean stewpan or earthen pipkin. When the sugar is melted and looks frothy, raise it higher from the fire, that it may not burn ; keep stirring it all the time till it is a fine brown ; pour in some red wine, taking care it does riot boil over, add a little salt, lemon, mace, and a few cloves; boil all up gently for ten minutes, and pour it into a basin. When cold, put it into a bottle well corked. 414 MISCELLANEOUS. 415 Rich Gkavy. — Cut beef into thin slices, accord- ing to the quantity wanted ; slice onions thin, and flour both; fry them of a light pale brown, but do not on any account suffer them to get black ; put them into a stewpan, pour boiling water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme, and savory, a small bit of knotted marjoram, the same of tarragon, some mace, allspice, whole black pep- pers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, or slice of bacon. Simmer till you have extracted all the juice of the meat, and be sure to skim the moment it boils, and often after. Meat or Fish Omelettes Generally. — Take cold meat, fish, game or poultry of any kind ; re- move all skin, sinew, etc., and either cut it small or pound it to a paste in a mortar, together with a proper proportion of spices and salt ; then either toss it in a buttered fiying-pan over a clear fire till it begins to brown, and pour beaten eggs upon it, or beat it up with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set in the pan. In any case, serve hot, with or without a sauce, but gar- nished with crisp herbs in branches, or pickles, or sliced lemon. The right proportion is one table- spoonful of meat to four eggs. A little milk, gravy, water, or white wine, may be advantageously added to the eggs while they are being beaten. Milk Toast. — Boil a pint of rich milk, and 27 416 MISCELLANEOUS. then take it off, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mixed with a small tablespoonful of flour. Then let it again come to boil. Have ready- two deep plates with half a dozen slices of toast in each. Pour the milk over them hot, and keep them covered till they go to table. Milk toast is generally eaten at breakfast. The warming of the bread gradu- ally through on both sides is a very great improve- ment upon the quality of the toast. All kinds of toast must be done the same way ; but if to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier. Dry toast should not be made until quite ready to serve; when done, place it in a toast rack, or upon its edges, one piece resting against an- other. Any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating. Breakfast Dish. — Two kidneys, one table- spoonful of flour, pepper and salt, half a teaspoon- ful of each, one tablespoonful of walnut catsup or walnut pickle juice, two tablespoonfuls of gravy, one round of buttered toast, half a glass of claret. Skin and cut the kidneys into fine, thin slices, and shake the flour well over them ; place all the other ingre- dients, except the toast, in a saucepan, and let it boil gently for five minutes. Place it at the side of the fire till it ceases boiling, add the kidneys, and let it ^tew gently for ten minutes, but be sure it does not boil. Have the toast ready in a hot dish, pour it on the toast, and serve immediately. MISCELLANEOUS. 417 SMALii Egg-Balls to Serve with Calf's Head. — Four eggs, a teaspoonful of flour, M'ater. Bpil three eggs for six minutes, take the yelks, and pound them in a mortar, add the flour and the yelk of the raw egg, beat all together till quite smooth, then roll the mixture into little balls, and throw them into boiling water for two minutes just before the dish is served, and strew them over the head. Good Meat Cake. — Mince the lean of cold Iamb or veal very finely ; soak a large slice of bread in boiling milk ; mash it, and mix it with the minced meat ; also a beaten egg, some boiled chopped pars- ley and thyme, a little grated lemon peel, pepper and salt. Make it into small, flat cakes, and fry them in butter or lard. Serve them up dry, or with good gravy, Superior Meat Pies. — Take the meat of a good- sized, fat chicken (boiled) ; add to it half a pound of good boiled beef's tongue, quarter of a pound of fresh butter, pepper and salt to taste, and about a dozen good boiled potatoes, and four good-sized onions. Chop all these ingredients fine, make a good crust, and cover the bottom of your dish. Put the ingredients in, and cook or bake it well. To Use the Meat and Gristle op a Soup Bone. — Cut all the gristle from the bone, boil until perfectly tender. If there is enough to serve for a dish, add vinegar, butter, pepper, and salt, and it will resemble souse ; if not, mix the meat with it, 418 MISCELLANEOUS. fricassee brown, and add butter, salt, pepper, a dust of flour, and sufficient water to make the gravy, and serve with dry bread toasted. Lay the bread on the plate and pour over it the fricassee. Rissoles. — Chop the meat very fine ; if mutton, a little parsley will be an improvement; season it, and rub some butter in. Make up the rissoles iu the form of a sugar loaf, beat an egg and roll them in it, and then in bread crumbs, very fine, twice. Fry them a nice golden brown, and serve up with good gravy in the dish. Or: The meat must be chopped very fine. Take an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of flour, a little all- spice, salt, and half an onion, chopped very fine, indeed. First mix the bread crumbs, flour, and spice together, then mix the meat well with it, sprinkle the onion over, stir all well together, and stir in two tablespoonfuls of bacon fat, or a rasher or two of bacon, finely minced. Make the mixture into balls with a very little milk, press them flat, roll each in flour, and drop them one at a time into a saucepan of boiling dripping, frying each simply in this way. When brown, take it out with an egg-slice, let the fat drain from it, place it on a pad of paper before the fire, so as to become quite dry. Rissoles of Cold Meat. — To one pound of cold meat allow three-quarters of a pound of bread crumbs, salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a little finely-chopped lemon-peel, and two eggs. MISCELLANEOUS. 419 Mince the meat very fine ; mix all together. Divide into balls or cones, nicely shaped. Put them intx5 a pan of boiling lard ; there must be enough lard to cover them. Fry the rissoles till they are a nice light brown. Serve with parsley for a garnish, or, if preferred, with gravy poured over them. Chicken or rabbit makes very delicious rissoles. RissABLES are made with veal and ham, chopped very fine, or pounded lightly; add a few bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little parsley and lemon-peel ; mix all together with the yelks of eggs, well beaten ; either roll them into shape like a flat sausage, or into the shape of peai^s, sticking a bit of horseradish in the ends to resemble the stalks. Egg each over, and grate bread crumbs. Fry thera brown, and serve on crisp-fried parsley. Lard. — Leaf lard is the nicest for all cooking purposes. Skim all the fat that is to be tried into lard, and commence by frying gently a little leaf lard, or your fat will scorch. Let it cool slowly, and dip oif the fat as soon as it is liquified, and strain it through a cloth. When all is strained that can be dipped off, squeeze the remainder by itself in the cloth. If the lard is to be used for cooking, salt it a trifle when first put on. Much of the salt will be found at the bottom of the kettle undissolved, still it would seem to be better that salt should be used. Forcemeat. — Half a pound of bread crumbs, a 420 MISCELLANEOUS. tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a teaspoon- ful of sweet herbs, a little grated lemon-jDeel and nutmeg, seasoning of salt, pepper, and Cayenne, two ounces of beef suet, very finely chopped, and two eggs, a little beaten. Mix all together. The flavor of a little chopped lean ham or bacon is relished by some persons. Forcemeat for Veal, Turkeys, Fowls, etc. — Two ounces of ham or bacon, quarter of a pound of suet, the rind of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of minced parsley, one teaspoonful of minced sweet herbs, salt, Cayenne, and pounded mace to taste, six ounces of bread crumbs, two eggs. Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and herbs, tak- ing particular care that all be very finely minced ; add a seasoning to taste, of salt, Cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly together with the bread crumbs before wetting. Now beat and strain the eggs, work these up with the other ingredients, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice brown in boiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. As we have stated before, no one flavor should predominate greatly, and the force- meat should be of sufficient body to cut with a knife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate forcemeat it is advisable to pound the ingredients together before binding with the egg ; but for ordi- nary cooking, mincing very finely answers the pur- pose. MISCELLANEOUS. 421 Ramakins. — Beat up well two eggs, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour, two ounces of warm butter, and two ounces of grated cheese. Mix all these well together, and bake them for a quarter of an hour in small boxes made of writing paper. They should be served hot in the paper boxes, and eaten after the game course. They require care in the preparation. Eggs may be preserved by applying with a brush a solution of gum- Arabic to the shells, and after- wards packing them in dry charcoal dust. Farm-House Syllabub. — Fill a china or earthenware bowl of any size nearly half full of cider (if sour, it is of no consequence), sweeten to the taste with coarse brown sugar, grate nutmeg and cinnamon to taste ; then send the bowl out to the cow to be milked on till quite full of froth. A better syllabub for company is made of port wine and cider mixed (or port wine only), sweetened with white sugar, and spice to taste. Lait Sucre. — Take one pint of milk, add loaf sugar, and flavor with lemon. Drink cold. Nutmegs. — Oil of nutmegs being of great value, it is often extracted from the nuts which are exposed to sale, and which are tliereby rendered of very little value. To ascertain the quality of nutmegs, force a pin into them ; and if good, however dry they may appear, the oil will be seen oozing out all 422 MISCELLANEOUS. round the pin from the compression 'occasioned in the surrounding parts. Essence of Nutmegs. — Dissolve one ounce of the rectified oil of nutmegs in one pint of rectified spirits of wine. Essence of Rose. — Take one ounce of ninety- five per cent, alcohol, and drop into it thirty drops of ottar of roses. Shake it up well, let it stand two days, when it is fit for use. How TO Mix Mustaed. — Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and allowed to cool ; hot water destroys its essential properties, and raw cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with a small pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, as mustard properly mixed should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-pot should not be more than half full, or rather less, if it will not be used for a day or two, as the mustard is so muoh better when fresh made. To Make Good Vinegar. — One pint of strained honey and two gallons of soft water. Let it stand in a moderately warm place. In three weeks it will be excellent vinegar. Excellent Vinegar can be made without any cost at all, by simply putting your apple-peelinga MISCELLANEOUS. 423 into a large stone jug, and filling the jug up with water. After leaving it quietly stand in some moderately warm place for about four or five weeks (always putting in the apple-peelings of every day), you will find that you have as good, or rather better vinegar than you can buy from any grocer, and which -does not cost you one cent. Mint Vinegar. — Put into a wide-mouthed bottle fresh, nice, clean mint leaves, enough to fill it loosely; then fill up the bottle with good vinegar, and after it has been stopped close for two or three weeks, it is to be poured off clean into another bottle, and kept well corked for use. Serve with lamb when mint cannot be obtained. Cayenne Vinegab. — Half an ounce of Cayenne pepper, half a pint of strong spirit, or one pint of vinegar. Put the vinegar or spirit, into a bottle, with the above proportion of Cayenne, and let it steep for a month; then strain off and bottle for use. This is an excellent seasoning for all kinds of soups and sauces, but must be used very spar- ingly. QuAJADA. — Make a large pan of curds and whey or sour milk ; cut a piece of rennet the size of a dinner-plate, put it in a stone crock, pour over it all the whey, and add a large handful of salt; set it behind the stove all night. Next morning, pour this whey slowly through a sieve into "four or five quarts of milk ; leave it until it thickens ; then, 424 MISCELLANEOUS. with the open hands, gently press the curd down without breaking until it .separates from the water. Take a napkin and gently place the curd in it, double it squarely, and tie tightly in a cross tie. Hang this to drain all night. It will be fit for use the next day, and is to be served with preserved fruit. Toad in the Hole.— Six ounces of flour, one pint of milk, three eggs, butter, a few slices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, and two kidneys. Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the above proportion ; butter a baking-dish and pour in the batter. Into this put the mutton, well seasoned, and the kidneys cut into small pieces. Bake one hour, and serve in the baking-dish. Oys- ters may be substituted for the kidneys. A Relish. — Put bread crumbs into a saucepan with cream, salt, and pepper ; when the bread has absorbed the cream or milk, break in a few eggs, and fry as omelette. Pikelets. — Take three pounds of flour ; make a hole in the middle with your hand. Mix two spoonfuls of yeast with a little salt and as much milk as will make the flour into a light paste. Pour the milk, with the yeast, into the middle of the flour, and stir a little of the flour down into it; then let it stand all night, and the next morning work in all the flour ; beat it well for a quarter of an hour ; let it stand for an hour ; take it out with a large spoon, lay it in round cakes on a board, well MISCELLANEOUS. 425 dusted with flour; dredge flour over them, pat theai with your hand, and bake them. Cheesikins. — Quarter pound of stale bread, quarter pound of cheese, two ounces of butter, two eggs, a teaspoonful of mustard flour, half teaspoon- ful of pepper, a few grains of Cayenne. Rub the bread into fine crumbs, grate the cheese, melt the butter, and mix with the rest of the ingredients, and the eggs, which should be previously beaten. Let the mixture stand for about an hour, and then knead it into a paste, roll it out very thin, cut into small pieces, and bake in a quick oven. Time, about fifteen or sixteen minutes. A German Entremet. — Boil eight eggs quite hard, and when cold cut them in two lengthwise. Take the yelks out very carefully, pass them through a fine sieve, and mix them well with half a pint of cream, (or more, if required,) and then add pepper, salt, and herbs. Pour this sauce into a very flat pie-dish that will stand heat, and place the white half eggs carefully in it, arranging them in the form of a star, or any other pattern preferred. Fill up the vacancy left in them by the yelks having been removed, with the same mixture, and strew a few " bread crumbs over them. Bake this very slightly, just enough to give it a bright yellow color, and serve it up in the dish in which it has been baked. Gravy for Fowls, or other Delicate Dishes. — Take half a pound of lean beef, slice 426 MISCELLANEOUS. and score it, and a piece of butter the eize of a nut- meg. Sprinkle it with flour, add a small onion, then put it all into a stewpan ; stir it round over the fire for ten minutes, then pour into it one pint of boiling water ; skim it carefully ; let it all boil together for five minutes ; strain it, and it is ready. To Keep Sausage Fresh all the Yeae. — Make into cakes, and fry as if for present use ; pack in stone jars, and if the grease that fries out of the meat is not sufficient to cover it, pour over hot lard so as to cover it, and entirely exclude the air. Rolled Patties from Remains of Meat. — The remains of roast veal, or any roast meat, is chopped very fine with fat or ham, adding to it a little nutmeg, salt, and butter, some eggs, parsley, and chopped shalots. Stir this over the fire till thick enough for stuffing; fill some rolls with tHjs, and bake as the patties for field-fare. CULINARY COUPLETS. BY A RHYMING EPICURE. Always have lobster sauce with salmon, And put mint sauce your roasted lamb on. Yeal cutlets dip in egg and bread crumb — Fry till you see a brownish red come. Grate Gruyere cheese on macaroni ; Make the top crisp, but not too bony. In venison gravy, currant jelly Mix with old port — see Francat«lli. MISCELLANEOUS. 42? In dressing salad, mind this law — With two hard yelks use one that's raw. Roast veal with rich stock gravy serve ; And pickled mushrooms, too, observe. Roast pork, sans apple sauce, past doubt^ Is " Hamlet" with the Prince left out. Your mutton-chops with paper cover, , And make them amber brown all over. Broil lightly your beefsteaks — to fry it Argues contempt of Christian diet. Kidneys a finer flavor gain By stewing them in good champagne. Buy stall-fed pigeons. When you've got them, The way to cook them is to pot them. Woodgrouse are dry when gumps have marred 'em— Before you roast 'em always lard 'em. To roast spring chickens is to spoil 'em — Just split 'em down the back and broil 'em. It gives true epicures the vapors To see boiled mutton, minus capers. Boiled turkey, gourmands know, of course, Is exquisite wfth celery sauce. The cook deserves a hearty cufiBng Who serves roast fowls with tasteless stuffing. Smelts require egg and biscuit powder. Don't put fat pork m your clam chowder. Egg sauce — few make it right, alas ! Is good with blue-fish or with b^as. 428 MISCELLANEOUS. Nice oyster sauce gives zest to cod — A fish, when fresh, to feast a god. Shad, stuffed and baked, is most delicious- 'Twould have electrified Apicius. Roasted in paste, a haunch of mutton, Might make ascetics play the glutton. Bst one might rhyme for weeks this way, And still have lots of things to say. And so I'll close — for, reader mite, This is about the hour I dine. CHAPTER XIV. PROPORTIONATE WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 1 lb. of Butter equals 1 quart. 1 lb. of Loaf Sugar equals 1 quart. 1 lb. of Flour equals 1 quart, 1 lb. 2 oz. of Indian Meals equals 1 quart. 1 lb. 2 oz. of Brown Sugar equals 1 quart. 1 lb. 1 oz. of Powdered Sugar equals 1 quart. 1 tablespoonful of Salt equals 1 ounce. 10 unbroken hen eggs equals 1 lb. A teaspoon contains about 20 drops of a liquid. A wineglass contains about 4 tablespoonfuls. A so-called quart bottle contains about a pint and a half. One gallon equals half a peck. Sixteen tablespoonfuls equals half a pint. i29 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Abernelhy biscuit, 321. A bill of fare, 414. A dish of snow, 271. Agrag, 403. A la mode, beef, 80. Aliuoad biscuit, 359. cake, 348. cake, bitter, 351. cake, s\?eet, 349. cup cake, 349. custard cake, 373. jelly cake, 346. peppernuts, 339. pudding, 219. tart, 241. Angel's food, 263. Apple and quince jelly, 293. a delicious dish, 267. cake, 352. Charlotte, 266. cheesecake, 354. cheesecakes, 270. crab, jam. 295. cream. 247. custiird. 257. float, 268. floating idand, 269. in jelly. 268. island, 269. jam, 294. jelly, 29:!. marm:ilade, 295. pique, 270. preserve, 295. puff, 237. pudding, boiled. 199. baked, 200. rich and sweet, 200. 28 Apple roll, 201. snow, 269. souffle, 268. Apricot jam, 277. A relish, 4;J4. Army cake, 346. Arrowroot biscuit, 353. pap with milk. 411, pudding 212. Artichokes, fried, 171. pickled, 68. Ash cake, 375. Asparagus, 175. omelette, 177. soup, 177. stewed, 176. toast, 177. Aunt Harriet's pie, 235. Bachelor buttons, 363. Bacon and veal patties, 114, omelette, 307. B:ike ii large fish whole, to, 35. Baked apple pudding, 200. chicken in rice, 133. crumbs of bread, 409. flour and beef tea, 407 flour bouillie, 410. ham, 122. lemon pudding, 20S. minced mutton, 97. potatoes, 147. sponge pudding, 204. tomatoes, 165. turkey, No. 1, 129. No. 2, 130. Baking sweet cakes, hints for, 330. Balls, beef, 84. codfish, 40. 431 432 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Balls, corn, 161. corned beef, hashed, 84. small egg, with calf's head, 417. Bananas, fried, 169. Barbara's plum pudding, 196. Barley lemonade, 393. orangeade, 393. Batn buns, 335. Batter, oyster patties in, 45. potatoes fried in, 156. pudding, boiled, 216. Beans, boiled, 168. cooked in French style, 167. string, 167. for winter use, 166 to pickle, 61. Beef a la mode, 80. balls, 84. brisket stuffed, 80. Beef, cakes. No. 1, 89. No. 2, 89. corned, boiled, 85. hash, 85. hash balls, 84. mock venison, 84. croquettes, 89. cutlets, 81. fillet of, 82. fillet, with mushrooms, SI. minced, 83. pickling, 86. pie, English, 82. potted, 88. roasted, Yorkshire pudding, 85. rump of, 79. soup, 21. plain, 21. stewed, 79. stewed with onions, 80. tea, 406. tea and baked flour, 407. Beefsteak pie, 88. pudding, 83. smothered in onions, 83. Beer, ginger, 402. common, 4"2. powders, 403. Beet-root, to pickle, 64. Beets, boiled, 175. Belsize tomato sauce, 50. Berwick sponge cake, 369. Beverage, cooling summer, 401. Bibavoe, 252. Diddle pudding, 225. Bill of fare, 414. Bird's nest pudding, 224. Birds, potted, 142. Birthday pudding, 225. Biscuit, abernethy, 321. almond, 359. arrowroot, 363. butter, 319. cakes, 319. cream. No. 1. 319. cream. No. 2, 370. German cream, 319, ginger, 339. Graham, 313. judge's, 321. light, Hi 8. milk, 320. No. ], 318. No. 2, 359. potato, 320. pudding, 213, Queen's, 364. rock, 358. rough, 359. soda, 320. sour cream, 320. sponge, 368. sweet, 360. wine, 358. Bisque