F 74 .S8ti32 copy 2 iS^i5f-« ([0'"' ■ ■■a# Class . 4r_Z_4- COPYRIGHT DEPOSm The History of Springfield in Massachusetts FOR THE YOUNG ' BEING ALSO IN SOME PART THE HISTORY OF OTHER TOWNS AND CITIES IN THE COUNTY OF HAMPDEN CHARLES H. BARROWS i|^ipj^::^;73uiiaiiiuiuiiiiiiiiiiijiii)iiiiuiiiiiiiuiiiw((iiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiuiiiuiuuuiiiiimiiii>iii>iiuiuiiiiiiUMi PUBLISHED BY The Connecticut Valley Historical Society Springfield, Massachusetts 1921 F74- Copyright IQ2I By Connecticut Valley Historical Society / ©aA617437^ TO THE CHILDREN AND YOUTH OF SPRINGFIELD AND THE Neighboring Towns and Cities THIS BOOK written that they may know what is interesting, good and true in the lives of those who have gone before them in this part of the connecticut valley IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR Pilgrim Edition 1620-1920 The Springfield celebration of the tercentenary of the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, Massachusetts, 1620, was held in January, 1921, under the auspices of the Con- necticut Valley Historical Society. CONTENTS CHAPTER I.— Pages 1-20 Geological History of Springfield and Its Neighborhood. The Lay OF the Land and the Run of the Water. Poem: To the Connecticut River. . CHAPTER n.— Pages 21-40 The Settlement. The Smithy. The Meeting-House. Poem: The Works of God. CHAPTER HL— Pages 41-58 The Early Government. The Pynchon Family. Witchcraft CHAPTER IV.— Pages 59-70 King Philip's War and Its Causes. Battles and Burnings in the Connecticut Valley. Poem: The Statue of the Puritan in Merrick Park. CHAPTER v.— Pages 71-86 King Philip's War Concluded. The Burning of Springfield. Captain Holyoke and the Falls Fight. Close of the War. CHAPTER VI.— Pages 87-102 Settlement of Chicopee and Other Towns. The Revolution. CHAPTER VII.— Pages 103-112 Shays' Rebellion. The Constitution. 1783-1789. CHAPTER VIII.— Pages 113-130 Old Times a,\d New. The Change to Modern Ways. The First Steamboat. The Armory. Distinguished Visitors. Poem: The Arsenal at Springfield. CHAPTER IX.— Pages 131-144 The New City. Anti-Slavery. The Civil War. CHAPTER X.— Pages 145-166 A Look Backwards. The Spanish War. The Twentieth Century. Anniversary Hymn. APPENDIX PAGES INDEX PAGES Chakles Henry Barrows CHARLES HENRY BARROWS "/ think a better man could ?wt be found in Springfield. Sincere, single-minded, gentle of nature, pure and honorable in life.'' C. G. W. DESCENDED from the same Puritan stock that he admired and from Wilham Pynchon himself, whose character he has so carefully portrayed in the following pages, Charles Henry Barrows was born in Springfield in Massa- chusetts on August 4, 1853. His father, Charles Barrows, was for many years the beloved Head Master of the school now bearing his name, while his mother, Lydia Smith, was of West Springfield heritage, having been born in the old farmhouse in Tatham in which the Hessian soldiers were billeted during the Revolutionary War. Mr. Barrows was educated in the Springfield Public Schools and at Harvard College and Law School from which he was graduated "with honor" and whose Phi Beta Kappa Key he always wore with pride and loyalty. His literary ability won him distinction at Harvard and he was one of the early editors of the "Advocate." Having been admitted to the Massachu- setts Bar, he spent two years in Boston as Assistant Attorney General of the Commonwealth. Returning to Springfield with great joy after his public service, Mr. Barrows made it his home for the rest of his life. It was the scene of the practise of his profession in which he won great confidence and respect. While devoted to the Law he had many other interests. His love of the best in literature won for him the friendship of many noted men of letters. His travels in Europe, often far from the wayfarer's beaten track, Mr. Barrows shared with his fellow-citizens in long letters to the Springfield Republican, of which he had been a Contributing Editor since leaving Harvard College. His battles with unsightly bill-boards and against the smoke nuisance caused Springfield to be known throughout the country as "Spotless Town" and letters so addressed were delivered at our local Post Office. As Trustee and for some years President of the Young Men's Christian Association Col- lege of Springfield, Mr. Barrows was especially interested in the foreign students and was doing Americanization work in his own way long before the need of such service was generally realized. He gave much time and interest to the wise distribu- tion of the Horace Smith Fund and made many friends among the boys and girls alike who were seeking a college education without sufficient means of their own. Mr. Barrows was a lover of children, of animals, of birds whose songs and habits he knew, of trees whose lives he sought always to protect and prolong. Though longing for the time when all war should cease, he was patriotically concerned in the World War and was a keen observer of its course and psychology. Showing his patriotism by serving as War Historian of the city by appointment of the Mayor, Mr. Barrows collected much valuable material which had to do with Springfield's share in the Great Conflict. On the 18th of October, 1918, just as the bells were ringing and the guns were firing in the prospect of a returning peace, his earthly life ended and he was laid to rest in the Peabody Cemetery which he knew so well and which he loved so much. J. R. B. CHAPTER I. GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.— THE LAY OF THE LAND AND THE RUN OF THE WATER. w- The Site oh Spkim SPRINGFIELD is located on the bank of a fine river. It is true that the river is not deep enough for any but the smaller craft, but in the summer many pleasure boats skim over its surface. The city itself, as seen on the approach from the west or south, with the !)road river in the foreground. NATURAL FEATURES 3 and its buildings rising on gradually retreating terraces, all embowered in foliage, is, indeed, as was said of an ancient city, "beautiful for situation." Before the days of railroads, or even of good wagon roads, the river was of great consequence to Springfield in the way of commerce. It was by the river that the early settlers got their beaver skins and other goods to market, floating them down the stream and thence by sea to Boston. In the summer the river helps to cool the heated air. From the city to its source, near the Canadian border, it is about three hundred and seventy miles and from the railroad bridge in Springfield to the lighthouse at the river's mouth seventy-one and a half miles more. The Agawam, which beyond Mittineague is called the Westfield, is one of its principal tributaries. While its name divides into three English words, this is a mere acci- dent, yet it does cut in two New Hampshire and Vermont and the eastern and western portions of Massachusetts and Con- necticut. The Indians named the stream and in their language Connecticut means "the long river." This is but one of many Indian names that belong to the locality of Springfield, some of which are in use today, like Pecowsic, Nayasset, Chicopee and Agawam. Mittineague was in Indian Menedgonuk, but has been worn by usage into the smoother form. The Indian place-names which are left to us in New England, like Wallamanumps, Massacksick, (Long- meadow) and Massachusetts are not so musical as those in the language of the western tribes, like Cayuga, Shiawassee and Minnehaha; but they all have a meaning which is worth finding out. Besides her share in "the great river," as the English set- tlers called it, Springfield has also a river almost all her own, a little one, indeed, but just big enough to be called by that HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD name. Its sources are at the foot of the Wilbraham moun- tains whence it flows by its north branch and south branch till these meet at the Watershops pond. After tumbling over two dams below the point of union the river loses itself in the Connecticut, near York street. It was so useful in the earliest times of the white settlers in grinding all the grain and sawing all the lumber that they thought ' ' Mill River ' ' a good and honorable name, and if those who come after us are sensible, by that name it will always be known. It still turns the great wheel at the Watershops and thus has a hand in making the ri- fles of the United States army. Next to Mill river, the stream that has been most important in the town's history, except the Chicopee, or rivers that are no longer in the limits of Springfield, was the "Town brook." The Town brook, called in its upper part "Garden brook," rises to the east of St. James avenue bridge and flow- ing down the valley, formerly divided near the corner of Spring and Worthington streets, one branch going north and circling to the north of Round Hill on its way to the river, while the Mill River at the Watershops. From " Marco Paul at the Springfield Armory," by Jacob Abbott, 1853. NATURAL FEATURES 5 other branch reached Main street, near Worthington, and flowed along the easterly side of the street, which it crossed near York street and thence entered the river. But the waters of the once famous "Town brook" are now diverted into sewers, where they do a very useful, if very dirty work. The brook as it flowed by Main street was once a clear, good stream in which to fish. Such has been also the doom of other pretty rural brooks that once flowed among grassy banks from the slopes of the higher lands in now thickly settled parts of the city. Some of them, before the days of steam, were ponded by dams in order to create power for small factories. One of these ponds covered the region of Avon Place. There is a little brook which even today rises not far from the corner of State and Walnut streets and flows, for its whole course, unseen to the river, passing on its way just in front of the High School. It once formed the "Card Factory" pond and turned the wheels of a factory east of the Wesson Hospi- tal. But in dry times the little brook was not able to do all the work required of it; so it was helped by a huge mastiff, who was made to walk in a treadmill and thus by the brook and the mastiff together, was the machinery kept going, a singular example of manufacture by dog power. Springfield has even yet some share in the Chicopee river, which touches its northeastern border, and to it Indian Orchard owes its importance. There are a number of natural ponds, mostly fed by unseen springs. They either have an outlet under ground, or else the water flowing in is so nicely balanced by the water passing into the air by evaporation that they need no outlet. Where this balance is destroyed by the lessening of the supply of water, as by the cutting of trees, the pond diminishes in size and incidentally peat is formed. An example may be seen HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD on the Wilbraham road beyond the North Branch. Goose pond, at first called Swan pond, because of the swans that stopped there on their spring and autumn journeys, was the very largest pond, and stretched northward from Winchester square. It was built over not many years ago. Two Mile pond seems likely • ••■..••■ to meet the same ^ -'■'.' fate. Five Mile • - pond, named from -^"its distance from ^^r^Ji^r^l ^ai^lBMMl M Mam street, is w. \ ^'^^»^r^^^sm^^m^m9^mmmA\M'0 divided by' the rail- road. Island pond, so called from its single island, a floating bog, is nearer, but little known. Loon pond is a pretty sheet of water and Venturer's pond is a pleasing feature of Sixteen Acres. The Sixteen Acres mill pond is perhaps a natural pond caused by a rock dam. In all there are ten natural ponds. The map accompanying this chapter shows the natural features and localities as they were in the days of the original settlers of Springfield. Before describing the lay of the land it is necessary to know something of its history; how in the story of the earth's making it came to be just what it is, its rocks and soil, its hills and valleys. To do this takes us back, perhaps, millions of years; for man's history is as nothing compared with that of the rocks. Deep down below the earth's surface lies the real floor on which all things above may be said to rest. It is com- posed of the strongest and oldest of the rocks, called crystalline. It was by the action of earth's great heat, melting and fusing together the original raw materials of the world, that the NATURAL FEATURES 7 crystalline rocks were made. Look at a block of granite and you will find it made up of several things that could only have been got together by heat. Although crystalline rocks lie at the bottom, they have sometimes got pushed up by the mighty forces of nature and so have made mountains. If you climb mountains even no higher than those surrounding Springfield, and find an exposed surface, you will come upon the hard rocks out of which they are built. In the valley they are not seen because of the over- lay of later rock and soil. Underneath Hampden county lies a bed of gneiss, a rock resembling granite. It is quarried in Monson and out of its blocks the Court House and Hall of Records have been constructed. After this solid old floor of gneiss was laid down, some very interesting things happened in this part of the Connecticut Valley, the story of which only the student of geology can fully appreciate ; but something of it may be told here. There was, first, the rising of the mountains; the easterly range running between Wilbraham and Monson and the westerly, through Blandford and other towns. This rising made the Connecticut Valley. Then the whole valley between these mountains, extending as far north as Greenfield, sank below the level of the ocean and of course the salt water flowed in. On the heights of the present Wilbraham, Blandford and other towns where the highlands penned the waters in, the tide rose and fell and the sea fishes, perhaps sharks, could swim from East Longmeadow to Holyoke and beyond, so some geologists think. Others believe that the Valley sank slowly and was occupied at times by shallow lakes. In those times sand and mud were being carried down by the Connecticut river from the northern mountains in a way which will be described further on, and dropped on the shores of this valley. Many 8 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD reptiles and amphibian, large and small, walked on the soft sand and mud. In the end this sand hardened and became a rock called sandstone, having sometimes imprinted in it the footsteps of these living beings. Sometimes too, raindrops left their marks in the sand and the raindrops and tracks have remained to tell a very old story in after ages. Specimens like that on this page may be seen in the Science Museum; but the best collection is in the museum of Amherst College. Footprints and Rainprints in the Triassic Sandstone OF THE CoNNECTICDT RiVER. It is this ancient sandstone, called by geologists, triassic, which is taken from the quarries of East Longmeadow. It was while the water extended from the Wilbraham mountains to the Blandford range that a great event happened a few miles from S]:^ringfield, caused by the action of sub- terranean heat. A great crack opened in the earth and up rushed a mass of melted matter which finally cooled into the hardest kind of rock, a rock called trap. After this, for a long time, more sand and mud were brought down from the moun- NATURAL FEATURES PTON EASTHAMPTQ tains. Again a crack opened in the earth, and another, thinner layer of melted rock oozed out over the sandstone. At the end of this outflow, pieces of the trap were thrown out with great force and dropped into the mud near by. More sand and mud were cemented into sand- stone and shales over the top of all this. The reptiles were very numerous in these re- gions, for one can find many tracks or prints in these lay- ers of sandstone. Some movement of the earth made the mountains, east and west, rise higher and the east side of the valley dropped a little, as the tilted rocks show. The Connecti- cut river flowed faster, so that it wore down the sand- stone and carried nearly half of it away. But the trap was so much harder and tougher that it was left standing as two ridges of hills, Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom, and the long ridge to the volcano work: map by william our. south, between West Springfield and Westfield, and the lower, parallel ridge, Little Tom, with the ridge between Tatham and Paucatuck, as well as Provin Mountain on which is our equalizing reservoir. The trap rock also forms Titan's Pier and Titan's Piazza. The volcanic rock can be seen exposed to view in the trap rock quarries; also in the railroad cut between 10 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD M- Tatham and Paucatuck in West Springfield. Out of it is made the macadam for the streets. The remains of the crater of this long extinct volcano can still be seen, not far from Titan's pier at the foot of Mount Holyoke. It was after this that, in an era not so very far from our own, perhaps, another one of Nature's great forces, not directly fire or water, but connected with "^ both in its origin, <(^ set itself in opera- ^tion to make changes in the sur- face of the earth in this neighbor- hood, and indeed, over a large part of North America. This was the Great Glacier, a sheet of ice that, starting in the Arctic regions, probably Labrador, extended, in some places, half a mile thick all down the continent to a line drawn a good deal south of Springfield. A mile measures the distance from Court Square up State street to Pleasant street or from Court Square down Main street to Mill River. The glacier was, as all glaciers are, really a great ice river; for it flowed slowly southward, bending itself to go over the mountains in its course and bearing the fragments along with it. These fragments, when the glacier finally melted, were dropped in places far away from their starting point and are now called boulders. In some places they are thickly strewn, but are not so common Boulders Dropped by a Glacier and Water-Worn Cobblestones. NATURAL FEATURES 11 in the immediate valley, for reasons that we shall see. One of them, however, now making a memorial stone on Benton Park, was found on the highlands near Brush Hill in West Springfield. The mountains, composed of the hard crystalline rocks, like the White mountains, and of trap, like Mount Tom, stood firm against the grinding power of the glacier, but many of the hardened deposits of sandstone were worn down. We cannot always tell just what damage was done to the sand- stone by the glacier and just what by the wearing away of it by the waters; but if you notice how high Mount Sugarloaf stands above the meadows of South Deerfield and Sunderland, and even how the sandstone hill at the south end of Main street is higher than the land around it, you will see how much bed-rock has been carried off to Connecticut which was once alongside. This bed-rock, broken up fine, as it would be by gradual water wear, makes the red earth so common in parts of Springfield, East Longmeadow, Suffield, Hartford and other Connecticut towns. At Locust street the sandstone is close to the surface and the sewer is cut in the solid rock which ex- tends southerly from a corner of the South Main street school. The long narrow rounded hill at Pasco Road, Indian Orchard, was made by the glacier and is a typical drumstick. When the great glacier melted away it left a big pond bottom stretching from Middletown in Connecticut on the south to Holyoke on the north, easterly to the Wilbraham and west as far as the range of hills that separates West Spring- field from Westfield. This big bottom became filled with water and is known to geologists as the vSpringfield lake. For a long time this lake remained, the deepest part being gradually filled with layers of clay. When you leave Court Square for Holyoke in the street cars your course is along the old lake bottom, the banks on either side being in plain view, until you reach the 12 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD top of the bank itself at the Holyoke City Hall. The powerful current of the Connecticut, entering the lake at the gap between Mount Holyoke and Mount Tom, as also Chicopee river com- ing down from the northeast, made important changes in the lake bottom. What were they? Away to the north were the mountains of crystalline rocks, the White mountains and the Green mountains. Heat, cold and frost were slowly wearing them away. Pebbles and sand came from them and fell into the little streams that ran among the hills. These pebbles and sand were carried downward by the streams into the great river. The river carried them into the great Springfield lake. The deepest part was in the western section, the part east from about Winchester Square being nearly or quite filled up. If the current was powerful it carried the pebbles further; if it lacked, then not so far: the sand, being lighter, would always go further than the pebbles. We have called the large pieces of rock, pebbles; but when they started on the southern journey they were rough edged. By tumbling over each other in their downward course they became rounded into pebbles. It was because this process was kept up for ages that the crystalline rocks underneath Springfield are covered deep with something quite different. Where the pebbles fell in masses they made gravel beds, the like of which can be seen on the line of the railroad, not far from Oak Grove cemetery. But the history of the sand dropping is the more interest- ing. Remember that, when the flow of water was swift and strong, the lighter grains went on and only the heavier ones were dropped. When the current slackened, the heavier grains stopped further up stream and the lighter ones in the spot where the larger ones were at first. So we expect to find layers NATURAL FEATURES 13 of sand of varying thicknesses, one or the other, according as the current was swift or slow. Sometimes the sand varies in color, as underneath Maple avenue in the Peabody cemetery. The children who discov- ered this by digging holes to China called one layer of it "fireman's sand," for its red color. In fact Armory Hill, extending for miles east, is covered with sand of varying sized grains. On the brow of the hill at Union street the grains exposed in building are coarse and good for mortar; a little distance east, on Walnut street, they are finer and not so good for this purpose. After you have noticed these different kinds of sand, look at one of the great stone posts at the gates of the Armory and you will find that it is composed of just such sand, only the mass of grains is compacted into stone, the color of which is a brown red. This post was taken out of the quarries of Longmeadow, where the sand droppings of a time long before the period of the great glacier had been pressed into stone by the great weight above them, and cemented by the iron making a stone or rock called sandstone. Some sand- stone is red, some is brown and some is grey, and it is called sedimentary, because made out of the sediment, or settlings, of water. Sometimes the mixture of sand and mud (the mud was only a wet mass of grains so fine as to be almost unnoticeable) was not coarse enough to make sandstone but only got pressed into a shelly state. This substance is called shale and may be seen in a bank at the foot of Walnut street. When the masses of grains are so fine as to be nothing more, when in the a pikcb of shale. 14 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD water, than mud mixed with a certain sticky substance, the deposit, or droppings, is called clay, such as can be seen at any brickyard. Clay banks mean, of course, that the water out of w^hich the fine particles were laid down, was moving very slowly, perhaps scarcely at all. Remembering, then, that deep down are the crystalline or fire-created rocks, we can read in the sand- stone, the shale, the gravel and the sand that hes above them, the various movings of the waters in this part of the sea, or, later, the Springfield lake. / ^Nf**^ -' 3^b==, Nay, more; for at the ' ' •»»«'- --flfc-^ Science Museum may be seen a specimen of stone all rippled over with the wave marks of the water that flowed back and forth over the muddy shore. Such deposits of sand, mud, clay, etc., as have been described, give to the earth, when a section of it is laid open, a kind of layer- cake effect, called stratification. There is another thing about the geological history of Springfield that ought to be noted. The lay of the land is very far from level; what is the cause of it? The reason is in the fact that the great body of water which once flowed through the valley, being some of the time more of a lake than a river, had, at different periods, different levels and made for itself more than one set of banks. If you will go down to the river, at the foot of State street, you v;ill find the bank somewhat high and rather steep. The stream is well shut in ana mav rise and fall in spring and summer without much eff'^ct except in the lower sewers. Stratified Rocks. NATURAL FEATURES 15 Look across and you will see that the western bank is not so high; in a freshet the water will be covering the Agawam meadows. If it were not for the artificial bank or dyke, Mer- rick would then be overflowed. Nevertheless, by continual deposits of mud the river is building for itself a higher western bank. How long this process of filling the river bottom and building the river banks has gone on is unknown; but cer- tain it is that twenty feet down in the side of a well, near A Bank of the Ancient Lake. the western end of the Chicopee bridge in West Springfield, there lies on its side a great tree two feet in diameter. It is the action of water, building up land in some places and wearing it away in others, that makes Springfield, in its most populous part, so uneven, yet picturesque. Imagine yourself standing at the foot of State street: turn about and go up the street to Dwight and you will then begin to ascend an incline, until, when you reach the statute of the Puritan, or better, stand in front of Christ church, you arc on another bank of the river, as it once was. Pursue your walk up State 16 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD street, and entering the Armory gate, go to the brow of the hill and you can see in your imagination, a still larger river or rather, lake, stretching at your feet. Then you have passed over two levels and are on the third. It would be well if these levels were called terraces, as they are in geology. The lower one extends through the whole length of the city; the next appears near Brightwood and with Chestnut and Maple streets at its western border, loses itself under Crescent Hill; the highest is continuous throughout the city and extends to the eastern limits. We may call the three the lower, the middle and the upper terrace. They are indicated on the map on a preceding page. The lay of the land in Springfield is not only affected by the motion of the great body of water from north to south but in a lesser degree by smaller currents flowing westward. If one should start at Cornell street for a walk, along the very brow of the hill, keeping as close to it as he could, except for the houses and private grounds that would prevent it being exactly close, and end his walk at Long Hill, he would find it 'f/S^;^ia^. r (.;" S Flagg'8 Hillock and Summerhouse. NATURAL FEATURES 17 a long walk indeed, much longer because of the windings and turnings of the different small valleys and ravines that cut into the general line of the bank. These are the work of water either surface water or water bursting from springs in the higher lands and cutting channels in the earth by carrying the earth itself away. In Springfield this process is pretty much stopped now, but it can still be seen going with striking efifect, at a place on the old Smith farm (now Fitch farm) in Tatham in West Springfield, a place that has for years been known as the "Cave Hole." The great ravines in Forest Park were produced in this way. Just how all the separate hills and hillocks of Springfield were made would be an interesting study and a few of them may be mentioned. Round Hill, for example, provokes a natural inquiry as to how it was made. There it is sand, rest- ing on stratified clay, standing right up between its three enclosing streets. How did it come there? One explanation is that while the sand lay that much deep in the valley, strong currents flowing in the old lake washed out the sand all around and for some reason left this mass of sand standing alone. It would be interesting to guess, likewise, on the geological history of Flagg's hillock, at the bend of the Bay road beyond Oak Grove cemetery. This is the highest hill entirely within the limits of the city, being 260 feet above sea level; but the slope of Necessity Hill, at the point where the Hampden road crosses the boundary line into East Longmeadow is about sixty feet higher. Such then were the forces, — fire, water, ice, gravitation, and heat and cold, — that make the lay of the land and the run of the water what it is in Springfield today. They were power- ful forces that did a deal of rough building work, sometimes in a very rough way. But when plant life began and the sand 18 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD and clay were covered with a life-giving soil, all over the plain of the upper terrace came the evergreen pine, and down on the middle terrace were chestnuts and maples and on the lower terrace, there took root those grand elms, which have not yet ceased to be the pride of the Valley. In the Science Museum may be seen a section of one that stood on Elm street, near the Hall of Records, and rose to the height of one hundred and fifteen feet. Thus a scene of geological interest became at last a scene of sylvan beauty. Fully to appreciate these changes, climb the stairs of the Arsenal at the Armory, on a summer day, and come out on the open platform. To the east and west are the mountains that once confined the sea; to the north are Mount Tom and Mount Holyoke that remain to tell the story of volcanic outburst. Beneath is the river, the mere relic of its ancient self, but still majestic. All about is a mass of green leafage, in which more than in almost any other city, Springfield is embowered.. The crash of mountains, lifting their heads for the first time to the sky, the flash and smoking of volcanic fires, the rush of molten lava to the surface, the awful approach of the great glacier, carrying destruction on every hand, the strange huge reptiles that trod the shores of the inland sea, — are forever gone. To the chaos and disorder of the old earth's making has succeeded peace. The time is ripe for man; for human happiness and love. It was into this scene of quiet beauty that the forefathers came to establish their homes. NATURAL FEATURES 19 TO THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. From that lone lake, the sweetest of the chain That links the mountain to the mighty main, Fresh from the rock and swelling by the tree, Rushing to meet and dare and breast the sea — Fair, noble, glorious river! in the wave The sunniest slopes and sweetest pastures lave; The mountain torrent, with its wintry roar Springs from its home and leaps upon thy shore : — The promontories love thee— and for this Turn their rough cheeks and stay thee for thy kiss. The young oak greets thee at the water's edge, Wet by the wave, though anchored in the ledge. — 'Tis there, the otter dives, the beaver feeds. Where pensive oziers dip their willowy weeds. And there the wild cat purrs amid her brood. And trains them in the sylvan solitude, To watch the squirrel's leap, or mark the mink Paddling the water by the quiet brink ; — Or to out-gaze the gray owl in the dark, Or hear the young fox practising to bark. Thou dost not stay, when Winter's coldest breath Howls throtigh the woods and sweeps along the heath — One mighty sigh relieves thy icy breast. And wakes thee from the calmness of thy rest. Down sweeps the torrent ice— it may not stay By rock or bridge, in narrow or in bay — Swift, swifter to the heaving sea it goes, And leaves £hee dimpling in thy sweet repose. Yet as the unharmed swallow skims his way, And lightly drops his pinion in thy spray, So the swift sail shall seek thy inland seas, And swell and whiten in thy purer breeze, New paddles dip thy waters, and strange oars Feather thy waves and touch thy noble shores. —Brainard, 1797-1828. FiKST Setti.i;i Wav to the Ci)NNEc:nciiT Valley CHAPTER II. THE SETTLEMENT— THE SMITHY— THE MEETING-HOUSE. I two. T WAS in mid-May of the year 1636 that the settlers of Springfield left Roxbury to find themselves a home in the valley of the Connecticut. There were not many, perhaps twenty, perhaps forty, who came at first. How many chil- dren there were we do not know ; but there were at least Their names were John and Mary Pynchon. John and LYCH-GATE -ALL- SAINTS • CHURCH SPRINGFIELD • ENGLAND Mary were both under twelve years old, but old enough to walk some part of the way and some of the time they probably rode on one of their father's horses. In fact, their father, William Pynchon, was the leader of the expedition and the founder of the new plantation. There could have been no better man for the purpose. He was alike good and true, brave and kind, and understood how to deal with white men and Indians. John and Mary grew up to be like him in many respects. The travelers were, of course, some days, perhaps a week, on the journey; for they had only the forest path to follow, good enough for Indians, but not so good for people incum- bered with luggage and traveling with horses or cattle. At night they made a camp around a blazing fire and someone 22 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD probably stayed awake to keep a lookout for Indians, while the others slept. When the morning broke, they read the Bible together and sang psalms before again starting on their way. As John and Mary Pynchon were born in England they were doubtless interested in the flowers that marked the spring- time in the new world and amused themselves every day, gathering columbine, lady's slipper, wake-robin and the novel kinds of violets. Now and then they would see Jack-in-the- pulpit sticking up his head under a green canopy, and curious pitcher plant meadow-cup, not yet in bloom. In the dry woods they would pick partridge berries. As for dandelions and buttercups, that now make such a bright show in the spring, Mary and John were to reach this region quite ahead of them ; for these are English plants that in after years were to spread over the country from seeds brought by the colonists. At last the settlers arrived on the banks of the wide-rolhng Connecticut. The shade of the forest was behind them and here were pleasant open spaces and rippling waters and the. bright sun shining over all. To the north was a mountain, outlined against the sky somewhat like a couched lion, but later to be known by the simple name of Mount Tom. In this new home they were, perhaps, sometimes lonely, thinking of the homes over in England, but they were not exactly alone. Older inhabitants of the land were about them, the friendly Indians who lived on the banks of the Agawam and on the heights of Long Hill and who were glad that the settlers had come, and sold them land on which to build and to plant. To John and Mary Pynchon the Indian children must have been both queer and interesting as they rolled down the banks in play or shot toy arrows at imaginary game. On the plains east of the river, and in fact, all about, their fathers and grandfathers, time out of memory, had chased the deer and THE SETTLEMENT 23 the rabbit and for many years to come the arrow heads that they lost in the chase will be turned out of the soil by those who never saw an Indian. A Springfield boy found one of these in the garden, years after another in a hen yard, and a third at the foot of a telegraph pole where workmen had been upturning the soil. The Indians could neither read nor write; they have gone, leaving their history untold as men write history; but the stone implements they made and the names they gave to rivers, ponds and hills, remain to tell how they lived and what they thought. The Indians planted some corn and peas; they taught the newcomers how to make the savory succotash, and the dish and the name, just as they gave it, are likely to last. But they lived mainly by hunting and fishing and did not use much planting ground. So they were willing to sell to William Pynchon and his companions a long stretch of excellent land on both sides of the river. Their own planting grounds were at the mouth of the Agawam river, near which they cured their fish for winter use and they sold to the settlers Massack- sick, (Longmeadow), Usquaiok, which is the land in the neigh- borhood of Mill river, and Nayasset, the meadow land stretch- ing north from Round Hill. All these lands were good for planting and pasture. That extending up the hills back from the river on both sides had no value to the Indians but for hunting, and they seem to have been willing that the whites should use it in common with them for that or any other pur- pose, like the cutting of firewood. The land was made over to the settlers by a written deed, the meaning of which was carefully explained to the Indians, and their chief men signed it by making, each, a picture at the bottom. Their pictures included an arrow, a canoe, a bow and a feather, things of everyday Indian use. The price ])aid was eighteen fathom of 24 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD wampum, eighteen coats, eighteen hoes, eighteen hatchets and eighteen knives. Why did the settlers choose this place right here in the valley, close by a tribe of savages, instead of establishing themselves on the highlands or remote from the river? First, because the land, all Massacksick, Usquaiok and Nayasset, was excellent land for cultivation; and, again, because being near the river was like being today on the line of a railroad. The Indians were continually going up and down the stream in their canoes and, by the river, beaver and other skins could be sent away to market and other goods brought from Boston or England. Mr. Pynchon was a shrewd trader and made much money by buying skins of the Indians to send away. The beaver, almost humanly wise in building its curious dams, has been, of course, long since gone, and is not now found nearer than northern Maine; but in those days, the region about and above Westfield was the heart of the beaver country, for the valley trade. The otter, (page 18) a fish-eating animal, was once common, but is now very rare hereabouts. A Settlement with Wellsweep and \'irginia Hail Fence. THE SETTLEMENT 25 Just where the houses of the settlers should be on this great tract of land which they bought was, of course, an im- portant question. At first they expected to settle on the Agawam meadows, and, in fact, had put up one house there; but the Indians told them that the meadows were flooded in high water; so they decided in favor of the east side of the "Great River," as they began to call the Connecticut, and they did, in fact, call it by no other name for a hundred years. From Round Hill and above, down to Mill river lay a good stretch of plough land, good for corn and wheat, and right across the stream was ample pasture. This meadow land was bounded on the east by a long narrow marsh, so full of hum- mocks that they began to call it "hassocky marsh." It occupied land between the present Main street and the line of Chestnut and Maple streets. Its west boundry was the brook mentioned in the previous chapter. It must have been somewhat troublesome and of course was filled long since; but by jumping from one hummock to another, the high and dry land could be reached, where there was a heavy growth of trees, some of them probably maple and chestnut; so that Maple and Chestnut streets are properly named. From these trees could be cut wood for the fire or timbers for canoes; but good, large canoe timber was so scarce that after a man, with much labor had got a canoe made, he was not allowed to sell it out of the town without consent of the inhabitants. It having been decided where the street should be, the houses all on the west side, each settler's land extended in a rectangular form eastward from his house across the marsh to the upper terrace and westward across the river for some distance into the meadows there. A century and a half were to pass before there would be a bridge over the stream. Connecting the street with the rive* was a narrow lane in the 26 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD line of the present Elm street and another which is the present Cypress street. At the foot of the first lane, close to the river, were the training field, the burying ground and the pound. Another lane was opened to the "lower landing" at York street. Nothing has been told us about the early house building, but many settlements resembling that in the picture have been made in New England and other parts of the country. It was warm weather and at first there were probably rude camps, made of the boughs of trees. The first house was presumably of logs, the cracks filled with clay or mor- Thatching the Shed. tar tO kcCp OUt the cold. For a roof there would be a thatch of straw or grass. When the long snowy winter began, so unlike the short open winters in England, where fiowers sometimes bloom in Febru- ary, they perhaps felt very comfortably settled. It may be that some of the first houses were not of logs. The falls in Mill river were set to work as soon as the machinery of a saw mill could be got from Boston; and the result was boards and shingles and clapboards, for those who could afford them. When the first crop of grain had been raised and threshed out with the flail, the same little stream was set to the grind- ing. No wonder that they called it Mill river, regardless of the Indian name. Its mills were all in all to them, for now, thanks to it, they had good housing and wholesome living. THE SETTLEMENT 27 In some respects, indeed, they lived better than in the old country. They had to get used to much colder winters; and many conveniences which they had enjoyed before, they could not have here. But the land easily gave them enough to eat in greater plenty than England could have done; partly because of their cultivated fields, partly because of the wild game, such as quail, partridge, ducks and pigeons. In fall and spring the pigeons passed over, sometimes in such num- bers as almost to darken the sky. These they caught in nets. Game birds were shot with a fowling piece for scattering the shot among a number of birds at once, like that on the shoulder of Miles Morgan in the Court Square statue. If woodchucks or moles became troublesome to the crops, there was a simple way of catching them by bending down a slender staddle fitted with a slipnoose and slightly fastening the end by a peg. When the offender nibbled the bait and was caught, he was jerked into the air and hung suspended. Established at last in the wilderness, all alone except for a few Indians, how was it that the forefathers, grown-ups and children, employed themselves? What did they do for work and play? There was plenty of work: cutting down trees for 28 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD firewood; hollowing great logs for canoes; planting corn in spring, hoeing it in summer and husking and threshing it in the autumn; boxing pine trees on the plains and making the oozing pitch into tar and rosin; cutting grass for hay and getting it into stacks for winter use. In these things the young folks, and even children, must have had an important share. The many mechanical helps to labor in these days were lacking and it was a time when "many hands make light work," even little hands. In that day and, indeed, well along into the nineteenth century, boys and girls had to invent and make many more of their playthings than they do now, when so much is done by machinery. Girls could make rude dolls and boys make traps and snares and little water wheels and pin boxes out of the stems of elderwood. Here is an English boy of five hundred years ago who probably made the windmill he is whirling, just such a one as boys make now; and below is "Mary Bump," an aged Springfield doll. Her body is a corn-cob. There was not much art but there was invention and imagina- tion, and it is from these, in the end, that art comes. Some of the comforts of the old country were wanting, but they were more than made up in the spirit of freedom and independence in a land where some great lord could not turn the people off the soil if he chose, and where they could worship God in the way they pleased. It was not so in England. Only Mr. Pynchon had been a land- THE SETTLEMENT 29 holder there and not many years after the settlement of Springfield the fierce struggle going on in England for politi- cal and religious liberty ended in a civil war, which cost King Charles his crown and life. The fact that the settlers here had land for the using of it made them all farmers, whatever calling they had followed in the old country. To cultivate the soil was the most natural and easy thing to do. At first there was no minister (we are speaking of all the early times) Old-Time English Children Playing Horse. who was not also something of a farmer, as many ministers were, even down to Dr. Osgood in the nineteenth century. But there is one trade which is very necessary even to a small community of farmers; there are horses and oxen to be shod, plows mended and all sorts of farming and domestic implements to be repaired, and in a place so far away from the rest of the world as Springfield, these would sometimes need to be made on the spot. For all this there was need of a blacksmith. After ten years had passed no one had come to the settlement who could do this work or do it well. There are many kinds of smiths, like whitesmiths and locksmiths, and how many people gave especial attention to smithery is 30 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD plain when one stops to consider how common is the name of Smith. But the blacksmith is, in a young settlement like Springfield, the most important of all. The townspeople felt that they must have a blacksmith, and just as one puts up a bird box expecting the birds to come and nest in it, they actually paid Francis Ball in wheat for building a blacksmith shop when there was no smith in sight. It had a chimney and forge, and one door and a window. There were rings in the chimney. ,j^T!f,V*r^J &et tbe sparhs; botu thc^i fl?! Hct the anliil rino! Cianiiiiticb hard, UJClDfO tichJ, 3 roil to iron shall clmg. The building done, Mr. Pynchon, through his agent in London, bought a blacksmith ; a strange thing to do, but this is the way it came about. There was war between England and Scotland and in the battle of Dunbar the Scotch were defeated and many of them brought as prisoners to England. Not knowing what to do with them, the English, following the custom of those days, sold them into slavery, but not a slavery for life. In the end they were to be free. Such was the lot of John Stewart, who was sent to Mr. Pynchon in this plantation and at once established in the new smithy. This was a great blessing to the village and, one can well imagine, THE SETTLEMENT 31 a source of never ending interest to its children. There is a charming mystery in the union of two pieces of red hot metal, whose explanation, if there be one other than the power and mystery of God Himself, lies far back in the secret laws and workings of nature. All that Longfellow has written of the Village Blacksmith, ' ' A mighty man is he With large and sinewy hands," was doubtless true of John vStewart, as all the children be- lieved, when they looked in at the open door. When the blacksmith had paid by his work for his passage over the sea and the other expenses Mr. Pynchon had incurred for him, he was given his freedom by Pynchon and the town presented him with the smithy. About the time that the smithy was built it was decided to build a meeting-house. Before this, when the townsmen met to make rules for the plantation, or all the people met for worship, they had gathered in a private house, or in summer, perhaps, under some wide-spreading tree. Everything was as yet very simple as compared with the old country, where they had churches of stone, some of them quite beautiful with tower and colored windows, and curious carvings without and within. Notice the contrast between the churches repre- sented on these pages. In the sim- ^ " Gargoyle or Eavespoxjt, plicity of the new world one building Stoney Stratford, Eno. must serve for all public gatherings, be it public worship or town meeting. So they spoke not of the church, but called the building the "meeting-house." In the language of the 32 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD law, in Massachusetts, this is the word still used. Town and church were pretty much the same in the early days of New ■England and the whole village supported the one and only minister. It was planned that the meeting-house should be forty feet long and twenty-five feet wide; that it should have two floors or stories, the lower one to be nine feet high. For a time the upper one was used for storing grain, until, at last, the people began to be afraid that the heavy weight would come down upon them and they took away the floor and built galleries round about the sides. But this was not for several years. The building having been planned, it was de- cided that it should be placed on the spot which is now the southeast corner of Court Square. Thomas Cooper was em- ployed as the contractor who should construct it. He agreed to take his pay in wheat, peas, pork, wampum, debts and labor. It is easy to see from this what, in those days, was most common in passing from hand to hand. Not a penny of English money was to be paid for building the meeting- house; it was too scarce. Wampum was the money of the Indians and made of shells. Upon the meeting-house there were built two turrets or little towers. One was for the bell; in the other a watchman could stay during service or at other times, should the Indians be hostile, and watch lest some Indian thief steal into the village or even a whole war party make a sudden dash into the street. In order that we may see all the townspeople gathered together, in these early days, let us make in imagination our attendance at the meeting-house at the hour of public worship on some Sunday. The sacred day had begun at sundown of Saturday and will end when the Sunday's sun has set behind the Berkshire hills. It is, we will say, the year 1663. Passing THE SETTLEMENT 33 along the main street and turning down the lane that has since been widened and called Elm street, we enter, as all the people do, by the side door on the south. There seems to have been no door opposite the pulpit. We find ourselves directly under one of the galleries. Some of the people are already seated and others are coming in. They know it is the Church of time of service, not because they have any clocks or watches (most of them), but because John Mathews has been beating the drum up and down the street and because the bell in the turret is now ringing. The people are seating themselves just where it has been voted that they shall sit. Anyone who should sit elsewhere would be liable to a fine of three shillings and four pence. 34 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD We are taken up the alley, as they called it, on the south side and are shown into a seat not far from the pulpit. Just before us, in the front seat, are some of the selectmen, among them Thomas Cooper, the builder of the house. Back of us is Thomas Day, who had married his daughter, Sarah, but neither Sarah Day nor her mother is sitting with the husband. In those days it was not thought proper that the women should sit with the men, and the women all found seats together. Up in the gallery we notice Miles Morgan in the place where the selectmen have appointed him to be in order to check any disorder among the boys or young men. Most of them are sitting there. Next the pulpit, in the deacon's seat, dis- tinguished in some way from the other seats, is Deacon Chapin. Just how he looked or how Miles Morgan looked, if one gazed directly into their faces, nobody knows; but the statues in their honor show us what kind of men they were, what sort of garments they wore and how they appeared as they went about the town. The sculptor has represented Deacon Chapin on his way to "meeting" and Miles Morgan going afield with his hoe and fowling piece. Most of the people whom we see in the audience are of English birth or descent, but Reice Bedortha probably came from Wales and John Riley was from Ireland. Peter Swink, who sits under the gallery, is a black man in the family of Mr. Pynchon and in the seventh seat is John Stewart, the Scotchman. Longfellow writes of the village blacksmith that " He goes on Sunday to the church And sits among his boys," but our blacksmith seems not to have been blessed with any family except his wife. We may suppose, though, that when THE SETTLEMENT 35 at his smithy be made friends with the children who ' ' coming from school, Looked in at the open door," if, indeed, there was a school in those days. We notice an especial seat, which we are afterwards told was made for a guard of soldiers, and therefore called "the guard's seat." No guard now occupies it, for the Indian war, that raged in the Connecticut colony about the time when the town was settled, is long since over and the Springfield Indians have always been peaceable; so the guard's seat is occupied by boys, who like to get together in it or to sit on the pulpit stairs. Anthony Dorchester sits with them to keep order, for even old time boys were mischievous. Sometimes on week days they broke the meeting-house windows in their games, and this meant a fine of twelve pence apiece. In some of the New England churches wealth and rank determined where people should be seated. This was at times, and perhaps always, to a certain extent, regarded in Spring- field; but not so much as in some other places. Age was also regarded. As much as the forefathers loved freedom and as much as they, in their sturdy principles, have done to promote equal rights for all, they were not yet free from many old world notions about rank and the importance of property in giving a standing in society. Outside the church these things are very liable to be wrongly estimated, but inside it might be supposed that those who studied the Bible would remember what is there said: "The rich and the poor meet together; the Lord is the maker of them all." Yet even as late as the early part of the last century, in the old white church of West Springfield, an all-compelling custom did not admit of a young HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD woman taking a front seat in the gallery where the unmarried women sat, unless she wore a silk gown, and of course some could never afford it. Thus sometimes do men forget that God is no respecter of persons and only a pure heart counts in his sight. First Meeting-House in West Sprimgfield. Soon the minister enters. He wears a black gown and white neck band. As he approaches the pulpit stairs, the boys who are sitting there give way and he mounts to his high seat. He prays and reads from the big Bible and then begins his sermon. There is no clock ; but by him stands the hour glass, and, if the sermon is very long, he has to turn the glass and THE SETTLEMENT 37 start the sand running again. Sermons were long in those days. Paper, too, was scarce and costly, and for this reason they were written so fine that they had to be read slowly. When the minister has finished, the people pass reverently out, pursuing their several ways up and down the village road, which is indeed the Main street, but almost the only one. Some of the boys have stopped on the edge of the hassocky marsh and are looking into the brook. They are -■^ planning to drop a fish V.-- line in there tomorrow. Perhaps, if they cross the marsh, they will flush a crane. A smithy had been built and a meeting-house, but as yet, after the lapse of forty years, there had been no schoolhouse. We read in the town records of no teacher paid by the town. Perhaps there were, irregularly, dame schools, taught by some woman, who like Goody Two Shoes, received her pay di- rectly from the parents. The most that the children learned was probably reading and writing, and it was not common for girls to write. Even some of the men, as a dame school. Miles Morgan, could not Our fathers learned the horn-book and thcTuks^^ . y ^^ — _ , . ^ They toed the line or topped the dunce's stool; write. In 1d70 there arrived An ancient dame presided as they road, . And If they erred, her thimble rapped each head; m the town one Daniel ^^^^ li^tle glrl a sampler niade, in time, And wrought thereon her simple faith, in rhyme. Denton, who was qualified Edhcr w. Bates. to teach. He was at once employed for this ])ur])Ose. He diaiir~i:).£jdi)/i 38 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD wrote a fair hand and was chosen to write the records of the town business. For a time he taught in a private house. Then a schoolhouse was built. It may seem strange that it was placed on the upper Ferry lane, now Cypress street; but the land was well taken up at the center of the village and then, again, the children would be coming from not only as far south as Long Hill or Longmeadow, but as far Autograph of the First ^ ^^, . Schoolmaster. nOrth aS ChlCOpeC. After a while a rule was made that for every child in attend- ance the parent must furnish a load of wood for the school- house fires. It was a simple school, not of much value for older boys and girls, perhaps. There was reading, writing and spelling, and perhaps some arithmetic; and if Daniel Denton came from England, as perhaps he did, he had some- thing to tell the children of the Old World, which they would' never see, and of w^hich there were no newspapers and very few books to tell them. There were no Sunday schools in those days and perhaps the best teaching in the school was concerning the great things of God such as those set forth in the following verses, which were taught to some of the Spring- field children in the nineteenth century by Dr. Peabody, of whom we shall read later on. THE SETTLEMENT THE WORKS OF GOD. To be Spoken by Children. The God in whom I ever trust Hath made my body from the dust; He gave me life, He gave me breath, And He preserves me still from death. He made the sun, and gave him light; He made the moon to shine by night ; He placed the brilliant stars on high. And leads them through the midnight sky. He made the earth in order stand ; He made the ocean and the land ; He made the hills their places know, And gentle rivers round them flow. He made the forest, and sustains The grass that clothes the fields and plains; He sends from heaven the summer showers, And makes the meadows bright with flowers. He made the living things; with care He feeds the wanderers of the air; He gave the beasts their dens and caves; And fish their dwelling in the waves. He called all beings into birth That crowd the ocean, air, and earth; And all in heaven and earth proclaim The glory of His holy name. —Peabody, 1799-1847. CHAPTER III. THE EARLY GOVERNMENT.— THE PYNCHON FAMILY.— WITCHCRAFT. WE HAVE already seen that the meeting-house was the town house as well as the church; here the men of the plantation met to arrange all its business. One who did not come or who was late had a fine to pay. Even Deacon Chapin was fined for an absence, such was the impor- tance which the forefathers placed upon a careful attention to public affairs. In our own day the President of the United States has often set the example for others by leaving his 42 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD pressing duties at Washington and traveling many hundred miles, in order to cast his vote, a vote that counted among the thousands no more than any other. After eight years the plantation decided to place its affairs in the hands of a committee, a committee which should be chosen once a year; so they selected Henry Smith, Thomas Cooper, Samuel Chapin, Richard Sikes and Henry Burt, to serve for the first year. They were called "select townsmen" or "selectmen" and were given power "to order anything that they shall judge best for the good of the town." After that the voters generally met only once or twice a year. Some of the declared duties of the selectmen were to lay out public highways, make bridges, repair highways, see to the scouring of ditches, to the killing of wolves, and to the training of children in some good calling. Some of these duties, like the laying out of streets, still belong to the city council and some have become obsolete. It seems odd to read about the scouring of ditches, for ditches are more used in the old countries, especially in Hol- land, for the dividing of lots, than here; but it was necessary to keep the town brook clean, for in it the villagers washed their fresh-killed beef and pork, and from it, to some extent, they probably got water for domestic purposes. For two centuries the town brook was a very useful institution and deserves to be remembered. The selectmen were especially charged with the killing of wolves, for these were a great trouble, howling and hungry when their food was scarce and picking up cattle and stray pigs that happened to be in the outlands. The town owned a wolf trap. Its stout jaws, hidden by a screen of leaves, when stepped on by the unwary animal, would come together with a powerful snap and hold him by the leg. He could be THE SETTLEMENT 43 baited by a bleating lamb as in the picture. Another scheme was to so adjust a gun that it would go off when the wolf stepped on a certain spot, to get the bait of meat; but occa- sionally an innocent cow got killed instead of the wolf. A large reward, equal in money of today to about ten dollars, was paid by the town for every wolf killed and the slayer had to bring the ears, or the head or the tail of the beast to the selectmen for proof. In those days children were more disturbed with stories about wolves than bears, but when in later years, the wolves had been killed off, bears began to be troublesome, for they liked pig pork, butchered by themselves, too well; so a re- ward was offered for bears and also for catamounts or pan- thers. It was not only the wild animals that the select- men had to look after. Everybody kept pigs and the porkers were always watching for a chance to roam about and root up pastures and break through fences with their strong snouts. In the fall they were looking for acorns, just as they do now in the southern states. So the town ordered that they should wear a yoke and have a ring in the nose. It must have been difficult to make a yoke stay on a pig and many were careless about it; so John Stewart, the blacksmith, was given power to catch every stray pig that was not yoked and rung, and then having put a yoke on his neck and a ring in his nose, to collect pay of 44 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the owner. A man who looked after swine in this way was called a hogreeve and for a long period hogreeves were an- nually chosen. There were also officers called field drivers, who were to take to the town pound any horse or cow found straying, especially if doing damage. The pound was on the northwestern part of what is now Court Square and was in charge of a pound-keeper. In after years it was on the spot where now Pleasant street is located. Another duty of the selectmen was that of perambulation. Perambulation is a very long word for a very long walk which is sometimes necessary in order to set right the boundary lines of a town. In our time, upon every road leading out of Springfield, except where the boundar}^ is a river, may be found a substantial stone, marking the division between the city and the next town; but in earl}^ times the lines were marked in a very rude way and on the occasion of one perambu- lation the book of the town records reads that "we first marked a little white oak by a pine stump, then next the bottom of the hill we marked a pine staddle and laid stones upon a rock and just over the brook we marked an ash staddle and then next a pine tree standing on the, south side of the county road and laid a heap of stones on a flat rock in the road." This custom, known as "beating the bounds," the settlers brought from the old country where perambulation from very ancient days had been attended with great ceremony. The lord of the manor, with a large banner borne before him, priests in white gowns and with crosses carried aloft and others with bells and banners, followed by many people, walked in procession around the bounds of the entire parish, singing and stopping to take refreshments and having a gala time generally. The procession kept to the exact bounds through fields and even directly through a dooryard, or THE SETTLEMENT 45 even a house, if it stood on the Hne. If a river formed the boundary, the procession walked along the shore, while some of the party stripped off their clothes and swam alongside, or, if the stream was navigable, some persons rowed along in boats. Sometimes boys were thrown into it at certain places. When a wall, or tree, or post was near the line, boys were swung against it and bumped. These were called "bumping places" and when the boys became old men their testimony, as to the location of the line, was considered especially valuable as to any point where they had been bumped. Perambulfe-tion of town boundaries is still the law in Massachusetts; but the towns were too large and the people too full of serious work for ceremony and the woods and swamps too numerous to make perambulation anything more than an occasional attempt to see that the bounds were all right. In the beginning of the previous chapter it was said that William Pynchon was the founder of Springfield and that he was good, and wise and kind. We must now return to him. While John and Mary Pynchon are growing up to manhood and womanhood, he has remained the chief man of the planta- tion. He was the richest man in it, in fact, the only man who had any considerable wealth. He had the most land and the most cattle. Of the cattle, Mrs. Pynchon took the immediate charge, and if she was like many farmers' wives of the early times, she had a good many cows to milk with her own hands and some of the churn- ing to do. Her husband, though a planter, was more prominently a mer- chant and had to spend much time in ^^ fur trade with the Indians and seeing 46 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD to the importation from Boston or Europe of things that the settlers needed and could not make. Besides, he owned the mills which ground the corn and sawed the logs on Mill river. And then, again, he was obliged to spend much time in the public service, because he was the man best fitted to do it, as everybody acknowledged. He was the judge before whom all the people brought their disputes for trial at law. He was a member of the General Court, which met at Boston and made laws for the whole colony. He was the commissioner of the colony to treat with the various Tribes of Indians between the Boston settlements and those on the Hudson River. It is a very important fact that the Indians, who, if they had been wrongfully treated might have caused much trouble, found in him one who would do exact justice between them and the whites. For fear of him as a judge, an Indian feared to wrong a white man and because of him and his just ways in trade they liked to deal with the white man. Pynchon feared no man; but he feared God and was a man of good will toward men. When the people met for town business it was he who was always chosen to preside. He lived in a wooden house on the spot which would now be the corner of Main and Fort streets and next north was the house of his trusted friend, Thomas Cooper. Posterity is fortunate in the existence of a portrait of him, painted from life. It is now in the Essex Institute, at Salem. He is the only citizen of Springfield, in its first century, the likeness of whose face is known. Like many good men who are called upon, by their high position, to do difficult things and sometimes to oppose the wishes of other people in doing them, there were those who did not understand and admire William Pynchon. But they THE PYNCHON FAMILY 47 did not live in Springfield. Some of them lived in Hartford. At a certain time, when grain was very scarce, it was necessary for the people of Hartford, Windsor and this plantation to buy corn of the Indians. Mr. Pynchon was given power, by all the towns of the valley below, to buy corn for them all at a certain price and if he could not buy it at the price, to ofTer more. The Indians held off and would not sell at a price that was reasonable. Mr. Pynchon did not buy; he thought it not best that the Indians should know of the weakness of the colonists; and he did not wish to disturb the market price for corn, feeling that this would be bad, not only for his own trade with them in the future, but for all the colonists. He believed in suffering some present loss, in order to keep a lasting gain. The people of Springfield believed with him, but those of Hartford did not. Both towns were suffering for lack of grain, and the cattle were getting poor, — Mr. Pynchon's, like those of everybody else. Still Pynchon stood firm. He felt that the white man must be firm and self-sufficient in presence of the savage; and there were Indians up and down the valley who had done much injury to the whites in the Pequot war and might, and in fact did, later, do more. Connecticut had conquered the Indians with the sword, but Pynchon believed in the arts of peace. He believed in suffering for the sake of peace; in getting people to do the things they ought to or the things that one wants them to do, of their own free will and not by force. S})ringfield was more exposed to dangers of the Indians and to the evil results of disturbing the regular course of trade with them than Hartford. So Springfield and Hartford differed about this matter and Hartford sent up Captain Mason, a famous Indian fighter, with money in one hand and sword in the other, as it were. 48 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD He was ready to give a higher price for the corn or to fight the Indians if they would not sell. They felt obliged to yield. Mr. Pynchon suffered many hard words from Hartford and Windsor about the matter, but Massachusetts stood by him, as especially did his own town, and in his honor the name of the plantation was changed from Agawam to Springfield, which was the name of his old home in England. In the parish church of old Springfield may be seen an ancient tablet bear- ing his name as one of the church wardens. After this Mr. Pynchon again found himself in difficulties with the neighboring colony. That colony had a fort at the mouth of the river, kept for protection against the Indians and Dutch, and insisted that Pynchon's boats should pay toll when they passed it. The tolls were to go towards its maintenance. This Mr. Pynchon would have been willing to do if both Massachusetts and Connecticut could have had control of the fort; but he did not relish the idea of taxation without representation, an idea which all the colonies after- wards revolted and thus brought on the Revolution. So he refused to pay toll. Massachusetts stood by him and re- quired a toll on Connecticut ships sailing into Boston harbor. Then Connecticut gave way. But now came real trouble for William Pynchon; for even Massachusetts, except Springfield, turned against him. Wil- liam Pynchon was not only a man of wisdom and peace but of godliness. For this reason he thought and studied much on the goodness of God to his children and the duty that they owed to Him. He loved and studied the Bible and had his own thoughts about it. Here in his house on Main street he wrote a book which he had printed in London and which gave his thoughts on these things. It was called "The Meritorious Price of Our Redemption." THE PYNCHON FAMILY 49 Some copies of this book came to America and three copies are still in existence, one of them in the Congregational Li- brary, Boston. Because this book was, in some respects, con- trary to the opinions then held, it caused much excitement, particularly in Boston and the neighboring towns. The General Court condemned it. By order of this court the book was publicly burned in Boston and its author removed from his position of judge at Springfield. Burning of Pynchon Hook. All these unhappy results of Mr. Pynchon's desire to set before the world what he believed to be the truth, were a serious blow to him. He had the best intentions and, perhaps, supposed that his efforts to do good would be met with a spirit of kindliness. On the other hand he found himself 50 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD punished and in the way of continued persecution. For himself he might have endured this. Already there had been thorns as well as roses in his path. Founding a settlement in the wilderness and being mainly responsible for its safety and happiness had not been easy. Yet he was not a man who would sacrifice the public's interests for his own. He apparently thought that though the settlement would suffer somewhat if he left it, yet, under all the circumstances, the responsibility had better be thrown on younger men, after his own leadership had become so much interfered with as, perhaps, to be an embarrassment to his fellow townsmen. Looking back from the long future and in view of the after career of his eldest son, who was early thrown upon his own resources, it really does seem that William Pynchon chose, for Springfield, what was the wisest course, in deciding to return to England, which he did in the year 1652. With him went his friend and minister, Mr. Moxon, and his own daughter Sarah, with her husband, Henry Smith. Thus ended the public career of one of the truly great colonial leaders, to whose character and the character of those whom he naturally drew about him, much of the stability and purity of the public and private life of Springfield has always been, and let us hope, for a long time to come, will be due. When Springfield learns what she owes to him, his statue will be seen in one of her public places. It was a dark day for Springfield when William Pynchon, Mr. Moxon and Henry Smith set out to spend the rest of their lives in England. It was the loss of the leaders. Other and younger men must now be called u]:)on and it remains to be seen how well they would fulfill their duties. As it turned out, there were good men and true to do what the lost leaders had done, namely, to work together for the good of the town. THE PYNCHON FAMILY 51 As we look back we see that of these men, the four most prominent were John Pynchon, Samuel Chapin, Elizur Hol- yoke and Thomas Cooper. Others there were who worked loyally with them. Deacon Chapin and Thomas Cooper we know already as selectmen. Who was Elizur Holyoke? In answering this last question we will take our last glimpse of Mary Pynchon. Hers is the first girl's name of any we know among the very first settlers and we could wish that more was known about her. When she came from England she was about the age of the girl in this picture. Soon after she had crossed the ocean to the New World her own mother died and it was after her father had married again that she came to Springfield. As she grew into girlhood so attractive was she, that when she was but fifteen years of age Elizur Hol- yoke of Hartford asked for her to be his wife. Her father giving his consent, young Holyoke removed to Springfield and they lived happily together for seventeen years until her death. In Holland's story "The Bay Path," there is much that is imaginary about Mary Pynchon, but aside from what is here told, scarcely anything more is known than is contained on the stone at her grave in the cemetery: "She that lies here was, while she stood, A very glory of womanhood." '^^^-:irr-: ^-^±,ii Upon a bank of violets sweet. Shakespeare. It was for either her husl)and or her son. Captain Holyoke, that the mountain was named. 52 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD But the hopes of the town might well have been placed on John Pynchon, who had many of his father's qualities of character and some others that were equally useful. Though born in England, he was but a boy when, after the long ocean voyage, he first saw the New World, and he grew up truly an American. Perhaps he could not, like his father, read the Bible in the original Hebrew ; and he may have known nothing of Latin and Greek, all of which William Pynchon had learned at the Uni- versity of Oxford. It may be, too, that his father had taught him something of these things. There is good reason for supposing that he was studious as a boy and when he became a young man he was so much of a scholar that he was some- times expected to preach a sermon of his own writ- ing, in the years when the people met for wor- ship, without any min- ister. On other occa- sions. Deacon Chapin, or another, would read a printed ser- mon of some clergyman. But John Pynchon had other training which was, perhaps, more useful to Springfield. He had grown up alongside the Indian boys who lived on Long Hill and the Agawam side and well knew the Indian character. This, in the trying times THE PYNCHON FAMILY 53 that afterwards arose with the Indians, was of much conse- quence. Sometimes he was called upon to settle differences between the Indians and other settlements, even as far west as Albany. The Indians called him "brother Pynchon." No likeness of him remains, as boy or man. In those days of hard struggle for a livelihood, probably none was ever made, but the picture on the previous page shows how he might have looked, in his earlier years, studious boy as he was. As the successor of his father, John Pynchon became the great merchant and trader of the valley. His vessels went down the river with merchandise to be landed at his own wharf in Boston. As an incident of his extensive operations with the Indians and others he furnished a good deal of work to the women and children of Springfield by giving them shells to string into wampum at a given price per fathom. These shells were either white or blue-black and were gathered by Indians on the shores of Long Island. Having been duly shaped they were sent to Springfield to Pynchon and sold to him by the bushel. On being strung they became wampum, the money of the Indians, and also to a large extent, of the settlers. Their value arose from the fact that they were so much used by the Indians for ornaments, just as the value of gold arises from the fact that, worthless as it is in the most useful arts, it is universally in demand for jewelry, and like the peculiar wampum shells, very scarce as compared with other metals. From a study of John Pynchon's account books, the historian, Judd, has stated that over 20,000 fathoms of wampum were strung by the women and children of this vicinity. As six feet make one fathom we have a string of beads which would reach from Court Square in Springfield through West Springfield to the Holyoke City Hall and back again through Chicopee. 54 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Besides being merchant and preacher, John Pynchon was also the recorder or register of deeds, the presiding officer in town meeting and the captain of the train band. He was also the judge before whom suits at law were tried and by whom law breakers were sentenced. There were some laws that he had to execute and some punishments that he had to inflict that seem strange to us. An ordinary punishment was standing in the stocks, an instrument of discomfort so put together that the feet, arms and neck of the cul- prit were pinned to a fixed position and his face exposed to public ridicule. The whipping post, even down to a late period, was a promi- stocks. nent object on the street and to it some of the wrong-doers were tied and whipped on the bare back. One of the rules of the army of Massachusetts was that, if any soldier should blaspheme, his tongue should be bored with a hot iron; but probably this punishment was not inflicted. Men were fined for wearing long hair and women were fined for wearing better clothes than they could afford. One of the most interesting trials that ever took place in Springfield occurred in the last years in which Judge William Pynchon held Court. It was the trial of Hugh Parsons for witchcraft. In England many thousand people had been hanged because they were thought to be witches in league with the evil one to injure others. In Springfield this suspicion fell on Hugh Parsons, whose house was at the south end of the street, near Mill river. Witches were always supposed to be ugly in appearance. Parsons was not a very agreeable man and probably not good WITCHCRAFT 55 looking. He was a brick mason and used to wear a red coat. Having, for some reason, got provoked with Blanche Bedortha, he said to her, "Gammer, I shall remember you when you little think on it." Parsons probably forgot all about it, but not so Blanche Bedortha. She kept thinking of him and wondering if he was casting the evil eye upon her. Everything strange Witches. that happened she laid to Hugh Parsons aided by the devil. She looked out on the marsh, where Mill river entered the Connecticut and saw strange lights. No doubt it was innocent "Will-o-the-Wisp." One night, when she went to bed in the dark, some sparks came from her flannel waistcoat, such little sparks as electricity brings in cold weather. But she knew nothing of phosphorescence and electricity; neither did her neighbors; so they began to think that Hugh Parsons was really a witch. The belief spread up the street, encouraged by every trifling coincidence. Parsons called at Mr. Edwards' house for milk and soon after the cow dried up. George Lancton took a bag pudding out of the pot and, laying it on "Ah, Witch! Ah, Witch!' WITCHCRAFT 57 the table, it separated right in the middle. Jonathan Taylor dreamed that he saw snakes on the floor and that one of them with a black and yellow stripe hit him on the forehead, when a voice like that of Parsons seemed to cry "Death." By this time the excitement was great and Parsons was arrested. As the constable was taking him past the house of Goody Stebbins (where is now the southeast corner of Court Square), on the way to Judge Pynchon's, she cried out, "Ah, witch! Ah, witch!" and fell in a fit. At the hearing before the Court it was decided that, on account of the im- portance of the case. Parsons must be sent to Boston where he would be tried on the charge of having "had familiar and wicked converse w4th the devil." His trial was accordingly held there and he was convicted by the jury, but he was finally acquitted by the General Court. Naturally he never returned to Springfield. In the picture the course of the town brook is seen and, in the distance, the wooded heights of the upper terrace from Crescent Hill to Fort Pleasant avenue. John Pynchon, the first judge, the fair recorder, the honest dealer, the able manager with the Indians, the godly teacher in a pulpit that had no minister, lived through all the events narrated in the next two chapters. In these he appears as the brave captain, major and colonel. "Major" was the title by which he came to be generally known. As he grew old such was the respect in which he was held and the gratitude that in the dark days when his father and mother had left the plantation, he had remained to be its protector, leader and friend, that he is described in the old records as "the worship- ful Major," "the worshipful Colonel" and as "the worshipful Major Pynchon, Esquire." His residence was in a house which stood on Main street, near the corner of the present Fort street, a house of brick, built l)y him and designed partly for defence 58 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD in war, so that it came at last to be known as "the old fort." Attached to the rear of it was a part of the old wooden building in which his father lived. The old fort stood until 1831, but nothing remains of these relics of the past, except a box made from the wood of the wooden house and a hinge from one of its doors. These are the property of the Con- necticut Valley Historical Society. Major Pynchon, honored and loved, lived to a good old age and died in 1703. A good picture of his house is given on this page in the book plate of the Historical Society. The view behind the house as in old times takes in the river and the West Springfield meadows. Besides the Indian and the Puritan, the steeple of the First church is seen from another point of view, with Mount Tom in the distance. The plate was designed by Clare Gardner, once a pupil of the Springfield schools. CHAPTER IV. KING PHILIP'S WAR AND ITS CAUSES.— BATTLES AND BURNINGS IN THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY. UP TO the time at which we have now arrived there had been peace between the colonies of Massachusetts Bay and Plymouth on the one hand and the various Indian tribes on the other. In the Connecticut colony there had been a war so bitterly waged by the whites, aided by their allies, the Mohegan Indians, that it had resulted in the utter destruc- tion of the Pequot tribe. The Pequot war happened about the time of the settlement of Springfield and though it made the settlers in this part of the valley very cautious in dealing with the Indians, and taught them that they lived in the midst of danger, yet nothing hostile occurred. Massasoit, the famous chief of the Wampanoags, was a neighbor of the Plymouth colonists and had always been their friend. The Narragan- setts, who lived in Rhode Island, influenced by the good of Roger Williams for had kept the peace the Pequot war. Kino Philip. From "Indian History for Young Folks" by Will Francis S. Drake. Copyright 1884 by Harper , and Bros. thCm, after the close of 60 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD The tribes of the interior, — those hving in what is now Worcester county and in that part of the valley extending from Hartford to Northampton, — were known by the general name of Nipmucks or "fresh water" Indians. They were small tribes, apparently independent of each other, and having each a chief, or sachem, who was advised by a few others of the most knowing of the tribe called Sagamores. The Indians who lived at the mouth of the Agawam, and had their fort, where, perhaps, they spent the winter, on Long Hill, were called the Agawams. They were about two hundred in number and their sachem was Wequogan. It was only natural that when the whites of these colonies were so few in number they should make every effort to make friends with the Indians. Possessed as they were with fire- arms and the arts of civilization they were but weak, living in a wilderness among so many savages. Besides, they were taught by their religion that the Indian was a brother man to whom it was their duty to bring the blessings of the white man's religion. There were men like John Eliot and David Brainerd, who suffered great hardships and underwent much toil in order to get the Indians to accept Christianity. In fact they were reasonably successful, for in fifty years after the Pilgrims had landed on Plymouth rock, there were as many as two thousand "praying Indians." Some of these were sincerely religious but all were called "praying Indians" who had begun to desert savage life and attached themselves in friendship and service to the whites, showing a willingness to learn the civilized way of living. They afterwards showed their good will by taking English names. There was, for example, in the Plymouth colony an Indian named Toto, who went by the name of Sam Barrow, probably because of his friendly KING PHILIP'S WAR 61 connection with a family of that name. Massasoit took his two boys, Wamsutta and Metacomet, to the governor, re- questing that they be given Enghsh names. They were therefore named respectively, Alexander and Philip. It was this Philip who figures so largely in this and the succeeding chapter. But, sad to relate, not all the whites were good to the Indians. Many bad men came to America and settled in the colonies. William Pynchon and his companions realized what might be the evil results of this in various ways and for many years no one was allowed to settle in Springfield who was not acceptable to the town. For a new settler someone had to become responsible that he would behave himself. In the seacoast towns this was not so easy. Consequently troubles arose and the whites sometimes bore themselves proudly towards the Indians. This, of course, irritated the Indians, for they felt that they had courteously allowed the whites to settle in their country and were entitled to respectful treat- ment. Here is an example of what happened. There was a sachem named Squando, chief of the Soko- nokis and a man of nobility and character. One day his wife was paddling down the river Saco in a canoe with her infant child. Some English sailors, coming along in a boat, said that they had heard that Indian children could swim like young ducks, and proceeded to upset the canoe. The child sank, at once, to the bottom of the river; the mother, by diving, brought it up, but although alive, it died shortly after. This, of course, was an extreme case, but it illustrates the wicked way in which the more ignorant or grosser members of a superior race sometimes look down upon and annoy those of a weaker race. 62 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD There were also, on the part of the Indians, those things that annoyed the whites. The Indians were incHned to thiev- ing; neither did they feel the importance of telling the truth. A long training in civilized life had taught the whites that truth telling is not only right but that without it business cannot well go on. The mind of a savage does not understand this; so that, as was said by Mr. Moxon, the first minister of this town, "An Indian's promise is like taking a pig by the tail." But without regard to the right and the wrong in the character of the white man or the red man, there was another cause, perhaps enough in itself, to lead at some time to a union of Indians against the whites, provided any leader should appear great enough to unite them. The whites came more and more to possess the land. It is true that they bought it of the Indians and at a price that seemed fair to both parties ; but, all the same, the Indians saw their hunting grounds dis- appearing and the game growing more scarce. They were trained to hunt and not to dig; all the corn was raised by the women. Besides, if the praying Indians kept on increasing, the true glory, as they understood it, of the Indian character, would be gone. No more war; no more scalping; no more of that wild life which they so thoroughly enjoyed. Instead of Indian braves there would only be peaceable Indian farmers. Today there are, on the Indian reservations, farmers, pros- perous and happy, having pianos and sewing machines in their comfortable homes; but an Indian, of colonial days, if he could have foreseen this as possible, would not have had it so, simply because he was born a wild Indian in a wigwam. A tame fox may be petted and well fed, but a wild fox, half starved, as he generally is, would never choose to become a tame one. KING PHILIP'S WAR 63 So, after fifty years had passed since the settlement of Plymouth, the Indians were reasoning among themselves in this way: "Now is our time. If we do not at once unite our scattered tribes and destroy the English, they will, in the end starve us out. They will soon grow so powerful that resist- ance would be hopeless. It is true that we cannot fight as they do. They have plenty of firearms and we must depend partly on our bows and arrows, but then we need not meet them in open battle. We can worry them out, we can shoot and poison their cattle, burn their houses and barns, and lie in wait for them in their fields and in the forest paths. When the men are away from home we can tomahawk the women and children. They may be more numerous than we are, but, in this way, we can in time destroy them all or drive them back whence they came." Some of the old sagamores gave different counsel, but this was the spirit that possessed the younger men of the tribes in Massachusetts. The disastrous Pequot war in Connecticut had taught the Mohegans that such reasonings were in vain and, under the leadership of the wily Uncas, they had been for a long time the allies of the English and were prepared to join with them even in war against their own race. To bring all this unfriendly feeling against the whites to a head, there was needed a warrior, who by his personal qualities, could unite under him the various tribes. Such a man was Metacomet, Massasoit's son, called Philip by the English. He had now become chief of the Wampanoags and was thoroughly convinced of the importance of making a stand against the whites. He is known in history as King Philip, and indeed, he had many kingly qualities. He was large in stature, of commanding appearance, agile and swift- footed as any Indian brave, and of superb muscular training. 64 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD As a leader he was quick to see and to do; and what he did not think safe or wise for himself to do he knew how to set others on doing. After war was once begun he would appear, now in south- eastern Massachusetts, now in Rhode Island and all at once in the Connecticut valley, like an angel of death, unseen in his coming or going, but his presence always recognized by the sign of burning villages and slaughtered English. He was, like other Indians, treacherous; yet, toward those who had befriended him personally, he proved, in the war, to be kind and magnanimous. Before an attack on a certain town, he directed that two small children of an old friend, should be spared; and he would not let Scituate be destroyed because in that town lived a family of Leonards who had befriended him. Perhaps nothing could make Philip more impressive than he was by nature; nevertheless on state occasions, it was his habit to assume a certain splendor of decoration. One of his decorations was a belt about ten feet long which went over his shoulders and being brought forward, hung down before him, nearly to his feet. It was embroidered with black and white wampum in figures of beasts, birds and flowers. Still another belt embroidered was placed on the head and hung down behind, and a third, ornamented with the figure of a star, was worn on the breast. These belts were edged with the red fur of some animal. The war began in June, 1675, within Plymouth colony, not far from Mount Hope, Philip's residence. Several villages were laid waste and some soldiers killed; but on the whole, thanks to the vigilance of Captain Church, a skillful Indian fighter, Philip was not very successful; so that he and his warriors were fortunate in escaping to the region of the Con- KING PHILIP'S WAR 65 -''■^t?'" necticut valley, where the settlements, being more separated, could be easier attacked. It was in early August that a horseman came riding in hot haste into the Main street of Springfield, announcing to the excited inhabitants that their neighbors of Brookfield, thirty miles away, were in great dis- tress. The horseman was Judah Trumbull. He had left Springfield but a few hours before. Arriving at Brookfield he had found the village in flames and the vil- lagers penned up in a single house, fighting for their lives ' against a horde of savages who were besieging it. Concealing himself, Trumbull crept up near enough to take in the situa- tion, then rushed to Springfield, as fast as his horse could carry him. Lieutenant Cooper immediately raised a troop of horse- men and hurried to Brookfield. On arriving he found that help had just come from another source. The Brookfield people were saved; but sad was their story. They had all, eighty-three in number, including women and children, gath- ered in a fortified house. To this the Indians tried to set fire in the hope of killing the inmates as they rushed out. To this end hay and fagots were piled against the side of the house and fired; but the blaze was put out from within. Blazing arrows were then shot upon the roof; but holes were Judah Trumbull's Ride. 66 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD cut in the roof and the fire put out. More water being wanted, a man who went to the well after it was shot. A woman, too, was killed by a bullet that entered through a loophole made for firing a musket from within. In a last effort to fire the house the Indians got a cart, lengthened the tongue or pole by splicing on other poles and, loading it with combus- tibles, set it on fire. Then they tried to push it against the house, but one wheel getting caught in a rut, the cart turned round and exposed those who pushed it to shots from the The Attack on Brookfield. house. A shower, just then coming up, extinguished the fire. Brookfield having been destroyed, it was naturally to be expected that Philip would now give his attention to the settlements up and down the valley. None knew whose turn would come next. Springfield was no longer the northern settlement. Above were Hadley and Northampton, Hatfield KING PHILIP'S WAR 67 and Deerfield, and still further north, Northfield, the most exposed of all. The only settlement to the west, in the valley, was Westfield. Of all the forces in the valley Major Pynchon had command, and in each town of course there was a militarv company. In his plans Major Pynchon showed more wisdom than the commissioners of the united colonies, who had gen- eral charge of the war. He proposed to disarm the peaceful Indians, like the Agawams, before they had a chance to do mischief. It was decided first to disarm the Nonotucks who lived near Northampton. For this purpose, two companies, under Captain Lathrop and Captain Beers, after relieving Brookfield, were marching thence northwards when they overtook the enemy near Mount Sugarloaf . The Indians suddenly stopped, plunged into a swamp, and poured a volley of bullets into the English. Into the swamp rushed the troops and, shelter- ing themselves behind trees, they and the savages fought for three hours. In this, the battle of Hopewell Swamp, a number were killed on both sides. Then followed an attack on Deerfield and next on North- field, under the command of Sagamore Sam and Onc-Eyed John. Some of the inhabitants of Northfield were killed and eventually the settlement was abandoned for the rest of the war. While Captain Beers and his company were marching to the relief of Northfield they fell into an ambush. An ambush was a favorite mode of warfare with Indians. They would carefully pick out some narrow passage, through which they believed their enemy would go, where, concealing them- selves behind rocks and trees, and waiting until the enemy were so far in the pass as to make retreat' difficult, they would make a sudden and deadly onslaught. Captain Beers and his force were thus caught while they were crossing a brook. 6S HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Thrown at first into confusion, they finally rallied and fought their way out of the ravine. Then on a slope of a hill, now known as Beers mountain, they made a last desperate resist- ance; but the Captain and most of his company were killed. A few days afterwards, when Major Treat came along, he saw the heads of the slain stuck on poles by the travelled path, the sign and threat of Indian vengeance. About the middle of September Captain Lathrop with his company were mil^^BJE SBMESSESniSm m marching from '^;.3 Deerfield to i| Hadlcy. In the '^'1 neighborhood of ^^ Mount Sugar- 51 loaf they stop- ^ ■;^; ped by a brook t^ to pick the wild fi; grapes that hung •;'.f temptingly on 5^ the vines about '"-" them. It was an excellent place for an am- bush and the Indians well knew it. No sooner were the troops scattered and their arms laid aside than the very bushes seemed on fire from the guns of, perhaps, hundreds of Indians, Pocumtucks, Nonotucks, Nashaways, Squakheags, led by Sagamore Sam, One-Eyed John, Muttaump, and, quite likely, Philip himself. The slaughter was well nigh complete. Almost the only person who escaped had thrown himself into the bed of the brook This cut is from "The Little Reader's Assistant," by Noah Webster, author of the Dictionary. It shows the clever escape of an Indian ally of the whites who, being pursued by one of King Philip's men, hid behind a rock and, raising his headgear on the barrel of his gun, drew the fire of his enemy. To reload the gun, a fiint lock, took so much time that the first Indian escaped. KING PHILIP'S WAR 69 and pulled the bushes over him. Although stepped on by more than one Indian, he lay quiet until all was over. This conflict is known as the battle of Bloody Brook. A monument near by now marks the burial place of the slain. Cradle of the Pynchon Family, Now in the Old Day House. 70 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD THE STATUE OF THE PURITAN IN MERRICK PARK. With sober foot unswerving, lip severe, And lid that droops to shield the inner sight ; Dark-browed, stem-willed, a shadow in the light Of alien times, and yet no alien here ; Revered and dreaded, loved, but yet with fear; He moves, the somber shade of that old night Whence grew our mom, the ghost of that grim might That nursed to strength the Nation's youth austere. Mark the grave thought that lines the hollow cheek, The hardy hand that guards the sacred book, The sinewy limb, and what the thin lips speak Of iron will to mould the era — look In reverence, and as ye mutely scan The heroic figure, see, rough-limned, a man ! — Whitmore, 1852. ■' -.\^-" ■* "■■/ ,i.n -^ The Indian Stockade on Long Hill, as it Probably Appeared, Looking S. E. CHAPTER V. KING PHILIPS WAR CONTINUED.— THE BURNING OF SPRINGFIELD.— CAPT. HOLYOKE AND THE FALLS FIGHT.— CLOSE OF THE WAR. THE war was by this time well begun throughout the two colonies. The upper settlements of the Connecticut seemed to be at the mercy of the savages. They were now gathering in the neighborhood of Hadley, which appar- ently was to be the next point of attack. It was to Hadley therefore that the English soldiers were sent. Major Pynchon beUeved that some troops should nevertheless be left in the other settlements for fear of a surprise ; but the commissioners 72 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD of the colonies made the mistake of not taking his advice Tn another respect he was overruled. With his usual fore sight and knowledge of Indian character he had suggested that the Agawams should be deprived of their firearms and a permanent guard placed in their fort. They were as yet peaceable and, being few in number, it could have been easily done. But he was obliged to content himself with taking a few hostages, who were then sent by him to Hartford for safer keeping. The gathering of troops at Hadley of course required Major Pynchon's presence there as commander of the army in the valley, and in accordance with orders he felt obliged to take with him nearly all the able-bodied men. Scarcely any men were left in the town, except a few old men, like Deacon Chapin, who was then in his last sickness, and boys under eighteen. Springfield's defenceless condition and importance gave Philip his opportunity. Through spies he knew what was going on. The blow was not to fall on Hadley, after all. To join forces with the Agawams, in the Long Hill stockade, was easy. He had only to hurry his light-footed braves down the line of the desolate Wilbraham hills and no one would be the wiser until it was too late. The farm houses of the open country were few and scattered and the occupants had fled into the villages for protection. By what defences had Springfield been made ready for an Indian onslaught? Major Pynchon and his fellow townsmen had their own way in this respect and they were fairly prepared. The Pynchon house, by its construction, being of brick with walls two feet in thickness, was in itself a good defence. There were two other houses in the lower part of the street, which, although built of wood, were especially protected KING PHILIPS WAR 73 against assault. Into these the inhabitants could flee. The ordinary means of garrisoning houses was by palisades. A palisade was made in this way. Trees of convenient size were cut to such a length that when placed firmly in the ground they would rise above it to the length of ten or twelve feet. Having been roughly hewn to a post-like form, or, if the work was hurried, perhaps not hewn at all, they palisaded houses. were then set close together around the house to be protected. They were also fastened together by a rude rail, held, it may be, by nails or withes. Sometimes several houses, or as at North- ampton, a whole hamlet, were thus enclosed. Loopholes were made here and there through which those from within could fire at an approaching enemy without much danger that a bullet or arrow would enter the loophole itself. At the entrance of the stockade or palisaded place, one line of posts was made to overlap the line from the other direction at a distance just wide enough for a man to pass. The narrow passage could thus be easily defended. Of course, if the enemy could get upon a rock or tree in the near neighborhood, they could fire upon the house, so that occasionally some one was shot when opposite a window. Feather beds, as was the case in Brook- field, could be hung against the inside wall to deaden the bullets that might penetrate the wall itself. It was with palisades that the Long Hill fort was constructed and the settlers wisely adopted the Indian mode of defence. The Indian fort or stockade was situated on the spot where now stands the house of the Vincentian Fathers. When exca- vations for this building were made the ashes of the ancient fires were uncovered and discolorations of the soil showed where the posts had been. 74 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD It was into this fort on Long Hill that some of Philip's warriors secretly entered on a night in early October, 1675. There were among our local Indians only about forty fighting men. They were probably so peaceably disposed, by reason of their weakness, their familiar intercourse in the village, and the fair treatment which they had always had, that had it not been for the incitements of Philip, they might have taken no part in the war. They were nearer to Connecticut than the Indians of the upper valley and in the Pequot war the Connecticut Indians had been taught a severe lesson. But to destroy Springfield was part of Philip's plan; he needed the help of our Indians and his clever arts prevailed. On Monday, October 4th, Major Pynchon set out for Hadley with his men. His object was to locate the Indians harboring around there and bring on a decisive battle at once. Meantime, Indian braves who had fired Brookfield and other places, were secretly got into the Long Hill fort. The terrible disaster and slaughter of women and children that impended was only saved from making a bloody page of history by a single circumstance. The Agawam hostages were still in Hartford and their relatives probably insisted on their relief from certain death by getting them out of the hands of the whites before the expected attack. Had this not been done some Indian would have betrayed the whole plot. Accordingly some messengers were sent to Hartford, who in some way effected the escape of the hostages. In passing through Wind- sor, either going or coming, the messengers or the hostages happened to come across Toto, an Indian who lived in a white family. Toto became aware of the plot and as he showed great excitement about something, he revealed it, on being questioned. No time was to be lost. The fate of Springfield now hung KING PHILIP'S WAR 75 on a family in Windsor, whose name we would be glad to know. A swift messenger was dispatched to the doomed town. Leav- ing his horse, probably, in West Springfield, and rousing the citizens there, he crossed on" the ferry, with some of them, at dead of night. The alarm was given all down the street. The people fled at once to the fortified houses and a messenger was sent to Hadley after Major Pynchon. It is probable that the Indians intended to make the attack at night. The betrayal of their plot and the sudden rush of the people for safety may have disconcerted their plans. At all events the morning broke with no sign of danger and some of the people went back to their homes. It was hard for them to believe that the Agawams had become their enemies. At this time the town was in command of Thomas Cooper, then known as Lieutenant Cooper. He no longer lived in his old place on Main street, but fifteen years before had removed to that part of the town now known as Agawam, and had a sawmill on Three Mile brook. He was an old man, but yet hale and hearty. He was not only a carpenter and farmer; he was something of a surgeon and in the absence of regular physicians, went far and near to set a broken bone. This he did in kindness and with no charge. In the absence of lawyers he also practiced before the courts. He was so often called to serve as selectman that he sought to avoid the office. He was particularly successful in dealing with the Indians and was probably personally acquainted with each one. Green, in his history, says that his descendants, of whom some still remain, may well place him beside Deacon Chapin as one of the pillars of the town. Another man besides Cooper, Chapin and the minister, who remained when the militia went to Hadley, was Thomas Miller. He was the constable and perhaps for that reason 76 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD was left behind. Unlike Lieutenant Cooper, he was probably not on particularly good terms with the Indians. In his younger days he had, for some reason, struck old Reippum- sick with the butt of his gun and the old man brought the younger one before Judge William Pynchon. As the matter was liable to lead to difficulties with the Indians, the judge called in several men. including the minister and Thomas Cooper, to sit with him as advisers. The result was that Miller was sentenced to be whipped at the public whipping post fifteen lashes, which, rather than undergo, he finally made his peace with the Indians by the payment of four fathoms of wampum. Perhaps unpleasant feelings remained on both sides, for ten years afterwards Miller complained to the court of Kollabaugamitt, Mallamaug and other Indians for striking his wife and throwing sticks at his children; whereupon ten men riding hard on five horses were sent in pursuit of the fleeing Kollabaugamitt, Mallamaug and other assailants into the country of the Nipmucks. Kollabaugamitt and Mallamaug were caught and fined by the Court in fourteen fathoms of wampum. Although the Indians did not like Thomas Miller yet, as he was constable and had been fence viewer, pound- keeper and committee on the allotment of new lands, he was evidently reckoned a worthy citizen. It is true that with the coming of the morning of the event- ful day the people had returned to their homes. Most of them, of course, were women and children and the distress and, anxiety must have been great. The defenders of the town had gone, and, although sent for, they might be unable to return. There may have been reports of strange Indians seen about the fort, and with another night death and destruc- tion might be upon the village. At some hazard Lieutenant Cooper determined to resolve these doubts. Taking Thomas KING PHILIP'S WAR 77 Miller with him, both mounted, they rode down the street in the direction of the fort. Arrived at some point not far from the bridge at Mill river, north of the stream and where the road passes alongside the natural bank at the foot of Long Hill, a shot was heard and then another. Miller was in- stantly killed. Cooper fell from his horse, but remounting, started up the street. Another shot made a mortal wound. The Ambush of Lieutenant Cooper and C instable Mii.leh. He reached the nearest garrisoned house and gave the alarm, but immediately died. Much as Thomas Cooper had done for the town in his life, in his death he really saved it from a great slaughter, for the alarm was none too soon. The ])cople had no sooner got into 78 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the fortified houses than the Indians, whooping and yelling, broke from the fort and were upon the town. "Alas, that direful yell So loud, so wild, so shrill, so clear, As if the very fiends of hell. Burst from the wildwood depths, were here." As compared with an Indian warhoop, the howling of a wolf or the cry of a panther had no terrors to the forefathers. At the head of the savage band were Philip's chosen braves, closely followed by the more timid Agawams, armed with fire- arms and bows and arrows. Some carried blazing pine knots, prepared to burn the houses, barns and haystacks. Thanks to the Windsor Indian, Lieutenant Cooper and the palisades, no one was killed in the mad rush up the street except Pente- cost Matthews, wife of the old town drummer, and Edmund Pringrydays, who was wounded and died a few days after. Some thirty houses were burned as were about twenty-five barns stored with fodder for the winter. Crossing the marsh, the enemy burned the house of correction near the present comer of State and Maple streets. In a short time the whole town, from the mills on Mill river to upper Ferry lane (Cypress street) was a burning, smoking ruin. Nothing escaped but the garrisoned houses, the meeting-house and one or two houses near it. Before being fired the houses were plundered of their valuables. One Indian got a pewter platter, which holding up before his person, either in defence or defiance, an enraged townsman sent a bullet through both platter and Indian. The platter remained in the town for nearly two centuries. While the Indians were still in the village plundering and burning and looking for an opportunity to kill the besieged, KING PHILIPS WAR 79 Major Treat of Connecticut arrived on the West Springfield side of the river with a company of soldiers. Could they have got across, the Indians would have fled, but the latter kept them back. Major Pynchon, however, having got the message sent the night before, had set out in great haste with the Spring- field men, whose wives and children, mothers and sisters, were in the "sacked and burning village." Perspiring with exertion and anxiety, they at last arrived on the scene. Their approach was the signal for the retreat of the Indians. These hurried eastward across the plain and encamped for the night about six miles away, tradition says at Indian Orchard. The next day they plunged into the forest to the north. The Agawams, afterwards uniting themselves with other tribes to the west of the Hudson, became, as a separate tribe, forever lost to sight. Although now and then a wanderer appeared about the home of his childhood, never again did Springfield have a tribe of Indian neighbors. One old squaw was left in the hasty flight. Perhaps she tried to follow the tribe and fell behind because of her age. Captain Moseley of Boston, who was engaged in the army of the valley, but not in Springfield, declared that she was torn in pieces by dogs. If true, this heinous act requires explana- tion and apology. Perhaps only a few were responsible. The shocking barbarities of the Indians were beginning to arouse the colonists to a fearful revenge. Captive Indians, including Philip's wife and little son, were sold into slavery in the West Indies, and even in Plymouth the heads of slain Indians were exposed on poles. There is nothing, however, on the part of the whites as barbarous as an act of the Indians in roasting a captive and eating slices of his flesh while yet alive. The saintly Eliot, who had been a successful missionary to the Indians, tried, with others, to lessen the brutalities of 80 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD war, so far as the whites were concerned, but without success. The Indians, however, had not so much feehng about this matter, even as concerned their own people, as one might expect. They looked upon death with a sort of indifference and probably felt that scalping and being scalped, burning alive and being burnt alive were a part of the glory of war. When Toto, mentioned in the fourth chapter (page 60), having himself killed nineteen whites, at last fell into the hands of Indians Killing a White Captive. From Noah Webster's "Little Reader's Assistant." Captain Church, he was told to prepare to die. He admitted that the sentence was just and said he was ashamed to live. He asked only the favor of being allowed to smoke a few whiffs of tobacco, which having done, he said he was ready. Then one of Captain Church's Indians sank a hatchet in his brains. At last winter began to set in, a time when even the Indians could not accomplish much in the way of active warfare. Philip and his Wampanoags retired from this region and entrenched themselves in a swamp in the eastern part of the KING PHILIPS WAR 81 State, where they were attacked with great slaughter. But it was a sad state of things here in the valley, with Deerfield, Northfield and Springfield destroyed and only Hadley and Northampton remaining. Springfield was in great straits. The people huddled together in the few houses and barns that were left and some probably found shelter on the west side where there were some houses. Major Pynchon was much inconvenienced by the crowding of his own house and dis- tressed by his great loss of property, — his grist mills and saw mills destroyed and the people who owed him unable to pay. It seemed like the ruin of his fortune, yet this is the way he wrote to one of his children, then in London: "Dear Son: I would not have you troubled at these sad losses which I have met with. There is no reason for a child to be troubled when his father calls in that which he lent him. It was the Lord that lent it to me, and He that gave it hath taken it away, and blessed be the name of the Lord. He hath done very well for me, and I acknowledge His goodness, and desire to trust in Him and to submit to Him forever. And do you, with me, acknowledge and justify Him." There was some talk of abandoning Springfield. Major Pynchon himself thought he would be better off to remove to Boston, where he had some property left. But, strong in the sense of duty, which was a family trait, he wrote to Gov- ernor Leverett in language of manliness and fortitude: //,/ ^j) / "I resolve to attend what ^--iy^^^^K. J-y'nx^h(nt^ God calls me to do and to V_— -^ -^^^^---'^'^''^ i stick to it as long as I can, ' AUTOOHAPH OF .loHN PyNCHON. and, though I have such great loss of the creature comforts, yet to do what I can in defending this place." Thus he furni'^hed a good motto for all the sons and 82 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD daughters of Springfield in times of stress and dijfficulty: ''STICK TO IT!'' At last the dreadful winter passed into an early spring, so that the crops were got early into the ground. The hopes of the people began to revive. They had not much more to lose and if the war might only be successfully ended in the campaign of the advancing year, all might yet be well. But the Indians had been greatly encouraged by the successes of 1675, and their dreams of sweeping the white men out of New England seemed nearer to becoming true. They started early on the war path. On a day in March a small party of Longmeadow people, who, out of fear, had been deprived of all church services since the memorable fifth of October, were on their way to the meeting-house at the center. They were protected by a few mounted soldiers, men from the eastern part of the state, who had been garrisoned in Springfield since the disaster. The company had got as far as the brook at Pecowsic, just where it comes out from Forest Park, when they were set upon by Indians. John Keep of Longmeadow was killed, his wife captured and his children either killed or captured. The Indians escaped into the region of the park and made for the north. As soon as Major Pynchon was notified he set off with others in pursuit, and overtaking the band, rescued a woman. It was learned from her that some, at least, of the attacking party were our own Agawams. Still bolder moves than this were made. Connecticut, after the Pequot war, seemed to be reasonably safe, but now an invasion into that colony was made; and Simsbury, only a few miles from Hartford, was attacked. Town after town in the eastern part of the colony was attacked or destroyed and the colonists were almost in despair. It seemed as if KING PHILIP'S WAR 83 savagery were indeed winning the day against civilization; as if a great continent were to have no better use than as a hunt- ing ground for wild Indians. But when it seemed darkest, it was really just before a decisive blow that shattered the Indians' hopes in a day. To show how this came about it is necessary to go back a little. Early in March the Indians, in one of their marauding expeditions down the valley, had captured a Springfield boy, Mrs. Uowi.andson and John (jIi-bekt at Tuunehs Falls. John Gilbert by name, whose father had lived in Longmeadow, but was now dead. John, who perhaps had wandered too far east of the village in order to snare partridges or something of that sort, was taken as far north as the present town of Hinsdale in New Hampshire. Here he fell very sick and was finally cast out into the cold along with a little Indian child who had lost both of its parents and was thrown out to die. They were found by Mrs. Rowlandson, the captive wife 84 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD of a minister. With great difficulty she got the youth to a fire and he grew better. He watched his chance to escape and on his eighteenth birthday he succeeded. On reaching the settlements he was able to give very important information. It had not been known where the Indians of Western Massa- chusetts were located, whether they had gone over into the Hudson valley or had remained nearer at hand. Could their rendezvous be discovered, and the whole body be surprised by a sudden onslaught their power for evil might be broken. When John Gilbert reached the settlements he made it clear just where the Indians could be found. It was at some falls on the Connecticut river, near the entrance of a river, now called Miller's river. It was a good place for fishing and here the Indians, by drying fish, were making themselves ready for the summer campaign. As soon as this information became known to Captain Turner, after whom the falls. were eventually named, he de- cided to attack at once. He was now in command in the valley, Major Pynchon having been allowed to resign at his own request. Pynchon, though a wise counsellor in the war, did not consider himself especially fitted for active military operations. Although he did not go to Turners Falls, Spring- field was well represented there by Captain Samuel Holyoke, the son of Mary Pynchon, a young man of brave and ardent temperament. He was second in command. The Indians were encamped directly on the bank of the river. With a sudden and terrible onslaught Captain Turner was among them without warning. Those who were not slain in their wigwams, plunged madly into the river and were carried down the falls to certain death. Such was the pitch of despera- tion to which the English had come in their fight against extinction by the savage, that Captain Holyoke slew five old KING PHILIP'S WAR 85 men, women and children with his own hand, as they were hiding under a bank. This is horrible to relate, like as it is to the stories of an older time; but when the life of a people is at stake means are not nicely measured. At best, war is terrible. The noise of the attack had aroused another band of Indians who were not far off and they at once attacked the invaders. It was said that Philip was approaching with a thousand warriors. The victory of the English was now turned into a retreat, and, owing to certain circumstances, a retreat which it was very difficult successfully to manage. To make it worse. Captain Turner was shot and the command devolved on Holyoke. Already he had nearly lost his life with the vanguard. His horse had been shot under him. As several warriors rushed upon him he killed one and his men drove back the rest. It was, nevertheless, his self-possession and courage that saved the day, and he marched into Hadley the surviving victor of the famous "Falls Fight." But the strain of those hours was too much. He returned to Springfield and in a few short months died from the effects of the exertion, a sacrifice to the cause of civilization in the Connecticut valley, and, indeed, the whole state. It is, per- haps for him, more likely for his father, Elizur Holyoke, that the mountain is named which looks down on the scenes of his life and victory. The Falls Fight, notwithstanding the rout of the English at the end of it, was really a great disaster for the Indians. It broke up the fisheries, on which Philip depended for his supplies during the summer campaign. Many sachems, saga- mores and braves were killed, and Philip, almost in despair, left the valley of the great river for his own country. As it turned out, the Falls Fight, in which John Gilbert and Captain 86 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Holyoke of Springfield had borne so important a part, was the last great event of the war, except the death of Philip himself. The Indian cause seemed all at once to collapse. Bereft of his family, his supporters killed in the Swamp Fight of the preceding winter and the Falls Fight of May 18th, Philip himself was at last corralled by Captain Church in a swamp. Swamps were a favorite place of refuge with Indians. As Philip was jumping from hummock to hummock in his flight, he was shot by sin Indian, an ally of the English. Thus ended King Philip's war, so far as he was concerned, in August 1676. It was continued for a time by sachems on the Maine and New Hampshire coast, and then peace was arranged. Henceforth the Indians of New England were a doomed race; doomed to weakness, disease, intemperance and decay. It had been the glory of Massasoit to win by kindness the friend- ship and good will of a new continental power. It was the fate of his son to destroy that good will and make his people, as a race in New England, first, to be feared and then to be ignored and forgotten. Two centuries were to pass before savage warfare was to cease beyond the Hudson and on the slopes of of the Rockies, and the last Indian warrior engaged in con- flict with the American People, Geronimo, of the dreadful tribe of Apaches, has died the week that this work goes to press ;* but for New England its Indians were soon to be as if they had never been. "Alas for them! — their day is o'er, Their fires are out from hill and shore; No more for them the wild deer bounds; The plough is on their hunting-grounds; The pale man's axe rings through their woods; The pale man's sail skims o'er their floods; Their pleasant springs are dry; Their children, — look! by power oppressed, Beyond the mountains of the west Their children go — to die!"— Sprague. ♦"Edition of 1911" CHAPTER VI. SETTLEMENT OF CHICOPEE AND OTHER TOWNS. THE REVOLUTION. Chicopee Falls in 1838. SPRINGFIELD had as yet but a very small population; all told there could not have been more than a few- hundred people. But the Springfield of that time, the time of King Philip's war, and for many years afterwards, occupies a large place on the map. The Indians having gone, there were none to dispute the English ownership, except the settlements made independent of Springfield and there were none of these in Massachusetts, except Westfield, nearer than Hadley and Northampton. Enfield and Suffield had once been practically a part of Springfield but it was finally decided that 88 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD they lay beyond the Massachusetts Hne. Although some went from Springfield to help settle Westfield, this town wanted Westfield to be independent. Some went over the river to establish their homes even before the war, like Lieutenant Cooper. Notwithstanding this scattering and the fact that the cen- tral village might be weakened by it, there was a friendly feeling all around and the dwellers on the west side are spoken of in old records as "our neighbors." Longmeadow was early granted a separate school and although there was a locality named Longmeadow Gate, it did not divide the in- habitants except in the matter of place. John Riley went as far away as the southern part of the present Holyoke and may be considered as the first settler of that city. Riley's brook perpetuates his name. In fact, when we consider the territory included and the settlers who branched out in one direction or another, for the sake of getting good, large farms all to themselves, yet were really inhabitants of Springfield and voted in its town meeting, we would find old Springfield to embrace the present towns or cities of Holyoke, West Springfield, Agawam, Chicopee, Ludlow, Wilbraham, Hamp- den, Longmeadow and East Longmeadow. The early settle- ment of Longmeadow was of the great meadow itself, down by the river, Chicopee was settled largely by Chapins and there were so many boys in the Chapin families that the name is unusually common hereabouts. So for many years was the name of Bliss; and no wonder, for Luke Bliss had sixteen children and Jedediah Bliss had as many and one over. For the sake of the good land and the river travel, the early settlers kept pretty near the water, but in 1721 Nathaniel Hitchcock decided to go to "the mountains," as they were called, and built for himself and his wife a house within the present limits NEIGHBORING TOWNS 89 of Wilbraham. Others soon followed him. These Manchonis mountains were the Indian hunting grounds. When the settlement of Wilbraham commenced there was one squaw remaining nearly half a century after her tribe had been gone. Her wigwam was on a little brook near the hill since called "Wigwam Hill." "Alone," says Stebbins in his history of Wilbraham, "the last of that tnysterious race, who had chased the deer over these fields, trapped the beaver in these streams, speared the salmon in these rivers, enjoyed the freedom of these hills, kindled their evening fires by these springs, and, as they smoked their pipes, beheld the western sky lighting up, as the sun went down, as if with the smile of the Great Spirit and of the braves, who had fallen in battle, and buried their kindred under these trees, she lived solitary, the curiosity of the early settlers, harmless, quiet, meditative, seldom entering any dwelling and providing for her own wants. At last she disappeared; of the manner of her death, or of her burial place, no man knoweth. She passed away, as a shadow of the vanished race and joined the company of her fathers." In 1750 Captain Miller went out and settled Ludlow. It thus happened that there were, before the Revo- lution, dwellers within the limits of all the cities and towns which have been made out of the old Springfield. When different localities came to be settled or used it is interesting to see what old Indian names they kept and what new ones they got. Take, for example, the Mill river valley. The land where the lesser river joins the greater one was known to the Indians as Usquaiok, which was, perhaps, the name of the stream. Mill river meant more to the settlers than Usquaiok, yet, just across the Connecticut they kept for the stream and the town, the word Agawam, the fish curing place of the Indians, where there were salmon and shad in plenty. 90 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Following up the Mill river valley, we pass the Water Shops, an odd name, indicating the use of water power. Fol- lowing the south branch w^e come to the neighborhood of Wachogue, formerly called Wachuet, an Indian word mean- ing "land near the hill." There were once "great Wachuet" and "little Wachuet," good meadow lands near hills on or near the Hampden road. Further on, along the stream, there was a good lot of land which measured about sixteen acres Chicopee from Springfield Street, 1838. in extent. This was allotted to early settlers and "The Sixteen Acres" grew into the name of a locality. Still further up was a tract called "World's End," because beyond this, for a time, nobody wanted to go. The dingles or old ravines which cut into the terraces of the thickly settled parts of the city all had their names. At the beginning of St. James avenue was, and is. Squaw tree dingle and, near the Chicopee line. Hogpen dingle. The dingle below the Wesson Hospital was Skunk's Misery and the NEIGHBORING TOWNS 91 one beginning at Avon Place was Thompson's dingle. To the south are Long dingle in Forest Park, and Entry dingle, which last is in Longmeadow. These localities are shown on the map in the first chapter. Suppose, now, we follow up the Chicopee river for a time, beginning at its mouth, at the place which the Indians called Chicopee. Passing Crowfoot brook, named for an early settler on its banks, and through the center, we arrive at the ancient Schonunganuck, now Chicopee Falls. Not far beyond is Skipmaug or Skipmuck. Noticing the outlets, as we pass, of Skipmuck brook. Poor brook and Higher brook, and the curve at Bircham's Bend we come to Indian Orchard, a name of which the origin is lost; the original locality of that name was on the north side of the river within the present town of Ludlow. We will return by way of the old Bay road. Crossing Poor brook again and coming into State street, near Squaw, tree dingle, and where "the log path," now upper State street, formerly left the Bay road, and crossing the Connecticut, let us follow the course of the Agawam. We would pass through Ramapogue at the West Springfield common and, reaching the stream just beyond, pass under the high bluffs which were once the banks of the old lake. We cross the little "Silver stream" flowing out from the hill in Mittineague or Menedgonuck and, passing through the village and a mile or more beyond, we come to a great bend called "the neck." The Indians, however, called this place Ashconunsuck. Just above is Tatham or Tattum, the meaning of which nobody knows. Pursuing our way west we cross Block brook and, rounding the course of the stream where it runs between the ridges of trap, we arrive at the fertile interval known to the Indians, and still known, as Paucatuck. This hamlet is the 92 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD last before we reach the Westfield hne. Paucatuck brook rises some miles to the north, beyond Bear Hole. Thus we see how English and Indian words of description are mingled in our names of places. Although, as we have seen, the Indians, as tribes, were no longer left in this part of New England, yet they continued to wander back from time to time and were occasionally employed on the farms. The danger from Indians was not yet over, but it was now the red men of Canada who kept the settlements in alarm. They had never been heard of before in these parts, but about ten years after King Philip's war ended and for more than half a century afterwards there were at times wars between England and France, which affected us. The French had settled Canada and, allying themselves with the Indians there, they made invasions of New England, particularly down the valley of the Connecticut. Northfield, Deerfield and Brookfield were most exposed. Men were killed and women carried captive to Canada. In Major Pynchon's day he was the military governor of the whole valley, and once when Brookfield had been attacked, he sent a force in pursuit of the Indians who were making fast for Canada. Among the pursuers was the same John Gilbert, who had once escaped from Indian captivity. The Indians were overtaken while at breakfast. Six of them were killed, and nine guns, twenty hatchets and about twenty horns of powder taken. It was just like John Pynchon, writing an account of the affair, to say, '"Tis God, not our twenty men that hath done it." Although the French were, from time to time, raising such dark war clouds to the north, yet in 1711, there arrived in Springfield a Frenchman who followed the ways of peace. He was a peddler, Samuel Malle- field by name, and appeared riding an iron gray horse. He NEIGHBORING TOWNS 93 brought more goods than one horse would carry, so, doubtless, the goods came by water from Hartford. There is in existence a list of all his wares, from which it appears that he brought something for everybody, — handkerchiefs, penknives and ink horns for the men, silks, fans and laces for the women and jewsharps and little books for the children. Among a multi- tude of other things were over 11,000 pins. All this we know because no sooner had the peddler arrived than he fell sick and died, and a complete inventory of his goods was made for the Probate Court. But the peddler, Samuel Mallefield, especially interests us, not so much because he came on an iron gray horse and brought 11,000 pins, but because on his deathbed he directed that all his property, after paying his expenses, should make a fund for the relief of the poor. The town accepted the bequest and erected a stone of table form to the memory of the French peddler, which may be seen among the ancient stones on the Pine street side of the cemetery. Very many years were to pass before his example would be fol- lowed; but in 1863 James W. Hale, a benevolent grocer, left most of his fortune to supply the worthy poor with coal, fuel and flour, from what is now called "The Hale Fund." These two men were the forerunners of many kind people who have made gifts and bequests for the use of the city. We are now come to the great days of the Revolution. Its battles were waged far away from Springfield; but, besides sending her men to join the armies of freedom, she had little James W. Hale. 94 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD glimpses and side-lights of events as they passed and made history for the now United States. It was on a day in June of the year 1775 when one, standing on Main street, near the Court House, and looking up street, might have seen a caval- cade of horsemen approaching from the north. They had just crossed the river and had turned into the Main street from PARsuNb Ta\l.i;.n, Main and Elm Streets. the upper Ferry Lane, now Cypress street. They advance down the street and halt in front of the tavern at (the present) Court Square. The central figure is a tall and really fine- looking man of dignified yet pleasing countenance. It is the new General, George Washington, on his way to Cambridge to take command of the Continental army. With him is General Lee. "He was," says Irving, in his "Life of Wash- THE REVOLUTION 95 ington," "in the vigor of his days, forty-three years of age, stately in person, noble in demeanor, calm and dignified in his deportment. As he sat on his horse with manly grace, his military presence delighted every eye." After dinner at the tavern, the afternoon saw the party again on their way up State street and along the old Bay road. We may believe that General Wash- ington, who was an ob- servant traveler, drew rein for a moment at the Wait monument, then rather new^ and read the inscrip- tion carved for the benefit of wayfarers. The battles of Lexing- ton and Bunker Hill had already been fought. The minute-men of Springfield were already stationed at the fortifications around Boston. Here is a letter, with misspelling corrected, which one of the young soldiers from Springfield wrote to his father. It was written about the day of Washington's arrival, written from the very town whence the settlers had started, as told in the second chapter. Roxbury, June 29, 1775. Honored Father: After my regards to you I take this opportunity to let you know that I am well, as I hope these lines will find you and all my brothers and sisters. I have some news to write. In the first place there was a skirmish between Charlestown and Cambridge and the Wait Monument. 96 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD King's troops drove our men out of our intrenchment because they had no powder and they have intrenched on Bunker's Hill and our men have intrenched on Winter Hill where the regulars retreated to when the first battle was at Concord which was June 16. They fired the same day at Roxbury and threw bombs and car- casses in order to set the street on fire, but by the goodness of God they did not, for our men, as soon as they had set it afire, would go up and put it out and the}^ fired no more until last Satur- day. Then they fired again and tried to set it on fire but they would go and put it out. One of our men took one of the car- casses and brought it up to the General before it went out. And they set two or three houses afire. But they were as fierce as a bloodhound to put them out. Then the Rhode Islanders went down on the Neck with two or three field pieces and fired at them and made their sentries run to the breast-work And then they fired upon our sentries and killed two of them. We are building a fort in Roxbury and digging a trench across the Neck. No more at present, so I remain your obedient son, JuDUTHAN Sanderson. It is plain that this young fellow was heart and soul with. the cause of the Revolution. So were the citizens of Spring- field generally, prominent among them being William Pyn- chon, grandson of the "worshipful Major." There were those, however, who stood by the King. "Adamses, where are you THE REVOLUTION 97 going?" said Colonel Worthington to the great patriots, Samuel and John Adams, when they appeared in this town DiscussiNQ The Revolution. in 1776, on their way to the Continental Congress. "To Philadelphia, to declare these colonies free," was the quick response. "Look out for your heads," replied Worthington. 98 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD The sound of battle was far away; but occasional travelers and soldiers returning from Ticonderoga and other posts kept the people fully interested and informed. It was this remote- ness of Springfield from the seat of war that, with other reasons, induced General Washington to designate the town as the place for the government manufacture of arms. He chose the plateau on which the Armory is now located, on the western edge of what he calls in his diary, describing the country between the Hill and Indian Orchard, "an almost un- inhabited pine plain much mixed with sand." The location cho- sen was then the town's training field, but it was readily yielded to the new enterprise. One of the great events in the early years of the Revolution, which is in a way connected with this and neighboring towns, was the surrender of the British General Burgoyne at Saratoga. Indeed, some of the soldiers of this vicinity were there and remembered the event as taking place on a clear and beautiful day in September. Standing in military array they saw the British general and six thousand of his troops pass by to the place where the latter laid down their arms. The soldiers of freedom were poor and wore no uniforms, but "they stood well arranged and with a military air." "The men," wrote the Hessian General Riedesel, then serving in the British army, "stood so still that we were filled with wonder. Not one of them made a single motion, as if he would speak with Costume of the Eighteenth Century. THE REVOLUTION 99 his neighbor. Nay, more, the lads that stood there in rank and file, kind nature had formed so trim, so slender, so full of nerve that it was a pleasure to look at them and we were all surprised at the sight of such a handsome, well formed race. Not a man was to be found, who as we marched by, made even a sign of taunting, insulting, exultation, hatred or any other evil feeling. On the contrary they seemed as if they would do us an honor." General Riedesel commanded some German troops from Hesse-Cassel who had been hired by the king to serve in America. In fact the great mass of the English people had not much sympathy with George the Third in his attempt to crush the liberty of the colonies. They were not eager to join the army and go to America for this purpose, so that the king bargained with the Grand Duke of Hesse-Cassel for 22,000 soldiers to fill up his army. It is not to be supposed that these mercenary troops had any heart in the war; but there was no German freedom in those days and they were compelled to go. Once here, both the English and German soldiers realized that the cause of liberty was the same everywhere and that what the Americans were fighting for was just what they themselves needed in their own country. It is not surprising that many of them deserted and made their homes in the United States, In the army that surrendered at Saratoga was a large body of Hessians, with their general. All these were ordered sent as prisoners of war to Boston. As there would not be enough to feed them if all went by the same route, three de- tachments were formed and one of these was sent over the mountains into and down the valley of the Westfield or Aga- wam river, by way of Springfield. It was at the close of a wet day in October when this large body of retired soldiers emerged from between the ridges of hills that divide Westfield 100 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD from West Springfield and encamped on the West Springfield common. More comfortable quarters, however, were found by many at the farmsteads. In a large farmhouse in Paucatuck lived a little boy, Seth by name, whose father had but recently, gun on shoulder, come back from the scene of the surrender. He was intensely interested in stories of Ticonderoga and the doings about there Revolutionary Officers in a Farmhouse at Paucatuck, West Springfield. and one can imagine his excitement when a party of fifteen or sixteen officers from the two armies arrived at his father's house with the purpose of spending the night. The officers made themselves comfortable in the house and hung their swords and trappings above the blazing hearth-fire to dry. To the end of his life the boy remembered the glistening THE REVOLUTION 101 steel and brass of the swords and scabbards as they flashed in the firelight. As for the common soldiers they staid out in the sheds at the cost of a good pile of cider apples that were waiting for the press. In the morning camp was struck on the Common, the farmhouses emptied of their visitors and the whole host crossed the river to Springfield, whence they proceeded towards Brookfield. But not all went. An Englishman named Worthy thought that this part of the country was good enough for him and contrived to drop out, as did a German named Wagoner. Worthy used to say that when the British common soldiers got over here they found that the Americans had the right of the cause. One other deserter there was, a horse, too lame, perhaps, to go further. He, too, found friends in West Spring- field and to the end of his days went by the name of "Old Burgoyne." ^^tii*-: ¥ f'_ ff \ ■ t^ 4 ^-.' J- Ndktheast Coknek of Coukt SyuAKE, 1J530. CHAPTER VII. SHAYS' REBELLION.— THE CONSTITUTION— 1783-1789. SHAYS' Rebellion was one of the unfortunate incidents in the history of Massachusetts. It is interesting because it shows a people, almost a majority, in opposition to the regular action of a government which they had just set up; and it is important in a history of Springfield because it was here that some of the most stirring scenes occurred. Sometimes it has been called an insurrection, sometimes a rebellion. An insurrection is a rising to prevent the operation of the laws by force of arms. A rebellion is such an opposition widely extended. In this case the movement, by spreading through the state, passed from an insurrection to a rebellion, although not a bloody one. It is included in the years 1783- 1877. What was its cause? During the Revolution the colonies had been too poor to pay the soldiers properly, too poor indeed, properly to feed and uniform the men; men who had, perhaps, left wife and children at home to get a very poor living on the farm while the husband and father served the cause. Money often had to be borrowed for them to live on. But the soldiers were paid in paper money, good so long as it would pass for the value stamped on its face, but it would so pass only so long as it could be exchanged for that which had a value in itself, gold or silver. In the colonies there was not enough gold or silver to go around and be exchanged for all this paper money ; so it began to get worthless, and the more that it was printed and given out the more worthless it got. 104 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD But the soldiers needed real money. When they got home to their farms they found, perhaps, that the oxen, which had not been needed for work during their absence, had been killed for beef. Now that the farmer himself was exchanging the gun for the plough, new oxen must be bought, or a new horse. Perhaps the farmer who had served in one or two campaigns was drafted for another and had to borrow money to pay for some one to go to the war in his place. The money was borrowed in coin and now the returning soldier found nothing in his hands with which to pay, except the now almost worthless paper. The former price of a yoke of oxen would scarce buy three mugs of cider; and if a man had borrowed a hundred dollars, he must now get four thousand dollars, in paper money to make it good. This farmer, pictured in an old broadside, "The Looking glass for 1787," has filled a bag with paper money and even then has scarcely enough to pay his taxes. When things came to this pass everybody was alarmed for the future. Business, of course, came very much to a standstill and it was hard to sell anything with which to pay anybody. People to whom debts were due began to collect them. If the debtor could not pay he was brought before the court and his farm or personal property was ordered to be sold to raise the money, and when nobody wanted to buy nothing would bring its real value. The debtor was ruined and under the old law of imprisonment for debt might have to go to jail. Thus it came to pass that a sense of distress, SHAYS' REBELLION 105 suffering and alarm overspread Massachusetts and involved a considerable portion of the population. The large portion of the people who were not so greatly troubled might have done more to make thing^ better. They might have passed certain laws which would have tided over the difficulties for a time till the cause was removed; but they were not wise enough to do so. The result was that here and there people began to consult together to see what they could do. All the danger was com- ing through the courts by the ordering of the collection of debts, so the malcontents decided to prevent the sitting of the courts. This was, of course, a high-handed proceeding. The courts had been established by the people of Massachu- setts for the purpose of doing justice between man and man and they tried hard to do so. The judges were not responsible for the laws but it was their duty to enforce them. The people had made the laws and it is pretty hard to justify the resistance of a free people to laws of their own making, even though some may unjustly suffer by it. In this case historians do not justify; they have done no more than to excuse on the ground of great provocation. Early in the history of the insurrection an important court was to be held in Springfield. The Court House stood on the east side of Main street, south of Sanford and, being just across the town brook, was reached by a small bridge. It was the sitting of the court here at this time that the insur- gents wished to prevent. Not wishing to proceed to blood- shed they left their guns of the Revolution at home and came armed with clubs. They gathered before the door of the Court House in so solid a mass that the judges as they arrived found their way obstructed. Before the judges walked the high sheriff, General Mattoon of Amherst. "Make way for 106 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the court," said the sheriff. Nobody moved. "Make way for the court, I say," he repeated; and struck David Smith, Jr., of West Springfield, a painful blow with the flat of his sword. It is said that one man was thrown into the brook. However that may be, the crowd then gave way and the court was duly held. There soon got to be a feeling among the towns, particularly towns in Hampshire, Berkshire and Worcester counties, that something was wrong that might be righted; so that from Springfield and elsewhere delegates were sent to a convention to talk about these matters and see what could be done. But nothing was effectively done and the opposition to the sitting of the courts kept growing. Sometimes it succeeded; but not so in Taunton, where Judge Cobb, a former general of the Revolution, was holding court. When the insurgents arrived, he urged them to yield to the laws, concluding with these words: "Sirs! I shall sit here as a judge or die here as a general." The mob dispersed. At last there appeared military leaders and the forms of military organization and there was no longer an insurrection but a rebellion. The rebellion took its name from one of these leaders, Daniel Shays of Pelham, a hill town not far from Ludlow. Shays had no great ability but he had served with credit as a captain in the Revolution, he was a good talker and, in concert with Luke Day of West Springfield, Eli Parsons of Berkshire and an ex-minister named Ely, was very successful in rallying the malcontents about him. Luke Day is reported to have said that liberty is liberty to do as you like and make everybody else do as you would have them. Perhaps, if he ever said it, he did not say it seriously; for true liberty is freedom subject to laws made for the good of all, as Day SHAYS' REBELLION 107 and every other soldier of the Revolution well knew. Day is thought to have been abler than Shays, but Shays was acknowl- edged as the leader and even in adjoining states where the same troubles prevailed "Hurrah for Shays!" became a popular cry. As between the cause of Shays and that of law the people of Springfield were divided. Springfield because of the Court House and the Ar- mory, became at once a great center of interest, as to which side should prevail, so that September Defending the Court House in Shays Rebellk 26, 1786, is memorable in our history. On that day the highest Court of the Commonwealth was to sit here, composed of the chief justice and three other judges and Shays meant to prevent it. His camp was near the corner of Main and Ferry streets. His men had no uniforms but could be told from the rest by a sprig of evergreen worn in the hat. The other side wore a piece of white paper in the same way. General Shep- 108 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD ard of Westfield, a brave and magnanimous officer, was in the town with a force ready to protect the court. Then there were seen three thousand armed men marching up and down Main street, ready to fight each other on sufficient provocation. Almost all of them were from outside towns; but among the citizens themselves, neighbor was set against neighbor and the next moment men might be firing from one house to the next. The excitement was great, women and children trembling with fear; and we are not told whether school kept or not. Men were continually coming in from other towns and joining one camp or the other. More than one company of the state militia which arrived to support General Shepard, carried away by the "hurrah boys'' of the other side, deserted in a body to Captain Shays. But there were staunch men left to the government side. Dr. Chauncey Brewer, going one night to see a sick person, had to pass through Shays' lines and was arrested by the sentries on Main street and brought into camp. Captain Shays ordered him to take the white paper from his hat. "No, Sir," said, the doctor, "I shall not do it! Just give me a place to sleep." Twice he was ordered to doff the badge and twice refused. At last he was allowed to go home with his badge on. When the judges arrived they got safely to the Court House but as the grand jury did not dare to come nothing could be done. So the Shays party, having really accomplished its object, went home. By this time the governor was thoroughly aroused. More and more he saw steady government going to pieces before his eyes and felt that something must be done. Loyal troops must be got and the state had no money to pay for them. He had to borrow money of Boston citizens to raise an army. This he did and was able to place General Lincoln at the head SHAYS' REBELLION 109 of 4,500 men. Of the troops raised here in the valley, General Shepard was in command. He at once proceeded to make himself strong at the Federal barracks, now called the Armory. None of the present buildings were there then; but there was a building containing arms and in the woods a powder maga- zine, of which Magazine street is still a reminder. Captain Day was, meanwhile, drilling his men on West Springfield Common and making occasional raids. He cap- tured General Parks and Doctor Whitney in their sleighs and making a dash into Longmeadow, pulled one man out of bed and took him to West Springfield. Eli Parsons with his, men of Berkshire was posted in Chicopee, so that, with Shays at Pelham, able quickly to descend upon the towns to the east, Springfield was in this way so surrounded that it was hoped to prevent General Shepard from being reinforced until Shays had captured the guns and ammunition at the arsenal, "of which he was much in need. In fact, Day did capture, at Chicopee bridge, a supply of provisions sent to Shepard from Northampton, and Shepard began to be desperately afraid that he could not keep his force together until Lincoln's army should come up. By this time Lincoln's army was on the move to relieve Shepard and Shays saw that he must attack the arsenal at once or lose his cause. So he came off the heights of Pelham and appeared in Wilbraham with 1,100 men. The women and children of Wilbraham fled to Somers, but Shays kept on his way to Springfield. It was in the dead of winter and slow marching ; so that vShepard was warned of their approach by a swift horseman from Wilbraham. He arranged his forces in two divisions; one on Main street, to keep Day from crossing over on the ice to join Shays, and the rest he drew up before the arsenal and planted a howitzer in a good position 110 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD with several cannon to the rear. Several times he sent his aids on horseback to meet Shays on the Sixteen Acres road and demand what he wanted. Shays' reply was that "he wanted barracks; barracks he would have and stores." He was told that he must purchase them dear if he had them. It was about four o'clock when Captain Shays with his more than a thousand men was seen moving down the present State street by Benton Park from off the Bay road. Reaching the vicinity of the present memorial boulder, they halted. General Shepard sent an aid to inform Shays that if he came nearer he would be fired upon, whereupon Shays started his men. Two shots were then fired by Shepard, not aimed directly at the rebels but only intended to frighten them. This having no effect, a howitzer full of grape shot was discharged into the center of their column. This caused a disturbance and the second or third shot put the whole army to rout. They turned and fled in confusion without firing a gun, leaving several of their comrades dead on the field. With such a ridiculous ending to the dreaded march of Shays, one cannot speak of the field of battle, and in all the rebellion there was nothing that came any nearer to a battle. Had Shays been more of a leader he would have done either less or much more. As it was, he proved very like that king of France, who, with 20,000 men marched up a hill and then marched down again. Henceforth there was no fear for the safety of the Armory until the days of the Civil war. If we may still use military language of such a fiasco, we would say that Shays, after the rout, fell back on Five Mile pond, where, making a stand, he next day joined Parsons in Chicopee with such of his men as had not deserted. General Lincoln meanwhile arrived on the scene, emerging from the Bay road and joining Shepard at the Armory. Being the SHAYS' REBELLION 111 superior officer, he was from this time in charge and proceeded at once to break up what was left of the rebellion. A part of his force pursued Shays to Amherst whence he retreated to the fastnesses of Pelham where he, perhaps, thought that nothing but death and taxes could get him. He afterwards went for safety into the State of New York where he died in poverty. His life and exploits, real and imaginary, were made the subject of a ballad which became a popular song, even beyond the limits of Massachusetts. The entire ballad of nineteen verses may be found in the "Poets and Poetry of Springfield." The ancient music is here given. My name was Shays in for-mer days, In Pel-ham I did dwell, Sir, ^^ 4=3t itzt w=w=w=w x~\=--~ :EE But now I'm forced to leave that place,Be-cause I did re - bel, Sir. '^' t: £3.: t^ :j: F- t:=t^z=t'" General Lincoln ordered another part of his force to cross the river to encounter Day, who was still posted on West Springfield common ; while the light horse meanwhile went up the river on the ice to cut off any union of Day with Shays. Day's men precipitately fled to some point beneath the terrace of the ancient river bank, perhaps not far from the site of/ the old white church where they made a stand and prepared themselves to receive an attack. Another flight and they 112 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD were on the heights where they were met by the Hght horse. Then began another rout. Some fled to Northampton and some fell out by the way. Among the latter was one Cooley . who hid under a con- venient haystack and thereafter went by the '^ name of "the haystack Colonel." The backbone of the rebellion was now broken. General Lin- coln was kept busy for some months in the counties of Worcester, Berkshire and northern Hampshire in suppressing small outbreaks; but, finally, a general pardon was granted to those engaged in the rebellion who would take the oath of allegiance, which they all did, and "lived happily forever after." Shays' Rebellion, though local, had results affecting the whole country. The news of it reached Washington, in the quiet of his Mount Vernon home, and he was greatly stirred. That such a glorious peace as ended the Revolution should be succeeded by such disorder he thought a disgrace. It was not a resistance to tyrants but free men resisting a govern- ment which they had themselves set up, — a government of law replaced by anarchy. He seemed to see the great work of his life undone. It was partly for this reason that he began to give the great influence of his character and wisdom to the creation of a strong central government which might help the states to maintain order. He again became the leader of the people, and, in part, out of such apparently unfruitful soil as Shays' Rebellion grew the final union of the states and the adoption of the Constitution. CHAPTER VIII. OLD TIMES AND NEW.— THE CHANGE TO MODERN WAYS — THE FIRST STEAMBOAT— THE ARMORY.— DISTINGUISHED VISITORS.— 1789-185'2. (ELL me about old fashioned times," a small boy used to say to his mother, mean- ing the times when she was a girl. What really are the "old- fashioned times?" What is the old world and what the new? We use these words in different senses. We say that modern times began with the invention of printing and the discovery of America and, again, we say that ancient history is the his- tory of the world before Christ, which we call B.C. But when we are thinking of old and new in Springfield we might prop- erly say that the old-fashioned times gave place to the new in the period between the birth of the nation by the adoption of the Constitution in 1789 and the incorporation of Spring- field as a city in 1852. During this period the ways of life had greatly changed and causes began to be which later re- sulted in still further changes. In the earlier days, men and women, boys and girls, lived in a different way. Their work, their amusements, their 114 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD studies, their mode of traveling and even of eating and drink- ing were different. The change in so simple a matter as get- ting a drink of water is typical of everything else. Once a well sweep (page 24) stood by every door, except where there was a convenient spring. "The old oaken bucket, the moss covered bucket" is no more; there is not now a well sweep within the limits of Springfield. One of the first ancient customs to pass away was that of slavery. From the day of John Stewart there had been slaves in Springfield, all, with Map of Hampden County. that exception, black. Finally people all felt that slavery was neither profitable nor right, and although the slaves had always been kindly treated as members of the family, yet the custom vanished of itself without the passing of any law against it. In this period, by the separation of Chicopee, Springfield came into the geographical form in which she has since re- mained, except for a slight change in the south line, and was henceforth the largest in population of the towns in the OLD TIMES AND NEW 115 valley. For a time this was not so. West Springfield, at one time, grew so rapidly as to be ahead of the mother town, and in the Revolution was called on to furnish more soldiers than Springfield; but the census of 1810 showed Springfield the more populous. Springfield, too, became the shire town of a new county. In the old county of Hampshire, which ex- tended from Connecticut to New Hampshire and Vermont and was flanked east by Worcester and west by Berkshire, Northampton had been a county town. When the old county was divided, the middle section retained the old name, taken from one of the old counties of Eng- land. The northern section was named for Benjamin Franklin and the southern for John Hampden, a famous English patriot, who, believing that "Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God," went of his free will to jail rather than pay the unjust ship money tax imposed by King Charles. He received his death wound fight- ing for the cause of liberty on one of the battlefields of the English revolution. Returning now to the ancient ways of life, we remember, as said in the second chapter, that in the very earliest times the people lived in houses made of logs and thatched with straw or grass. For windows they often had only oiled paper instead of glass. But things had gradually improved; so that many of the boys and girls whose fathers went as soldiers in John Hampden. 116 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the Revolution lived in much larger and more convenient houses. Nevertheless, the best of those houses were rather cold in winter. Neither furnaces nor stoves were known. The only fire was in the great kitchen fireplace, with some- times another fireplace in the parlor. The great fire, built from huge sticks, crackled and roared and looked very warm, as indeed it was, if one was near enough to it. It boiled the kettle, hanging on the crane, and baked the buckwheat cakes; but while it gave out heat it was sucking in a deal of cold from all parts of the house, so that one would be warm in front and cold on the back, unless he sat on a settle. A settle was a seat with a high back extending to the floor. Sometimes the chimney place was so large that the settle was inside and one could look up and see the stars. When bedtime came the great fire was useless. It con- sumed a vast quantity of wood, the preparation of which made the sound of "chop, chop, chop," a very familiar one at every house, and, as there would be no one to feed it during the night, it was carefully covered with ashes, in order to keep the coals alive until the next morning. Should it go out in those days when matches were unknown, somebody would go to the neighbors for live coals. The bedrooms were, of course, pretty cold, but, thanks to the great feather beds, the sleepers got warm after awhile and were able to keep so, sometimes by the aid of close curtains, all around and above the bed. Just before getting in it, the bed would be heated by the warming pan, a brass pan containing live coals and moved about between the sheets. OLD TIMES AND NEW 117 In the meeting-house there were no fireplaces; but the women tried to keep warm by the aid of a httle footstove, filled with hot coals. The children, too, were often very cold in school. In the school house at Tatham little Lydia would find the pie frozen in the dinner basket under her seat, but she lived through it all to a healthy old age. It is not so much what we endure as how well we learn to endure, that counts. People made their own but- ter and cheese and the boys milked cows and churned butter, while the girls early learned to Footstove and wakminl, pan, spin ; for the cloth generally worn was made in the family and for this reason called "homespun." It took continual spin- ning to make the clothes for a large family. The flax for linen was raised on the farm, then dressed and carded; the wool, too, was raised at home. For the colors, if brown was wanted, the children had to gather butternut leaves for the ^^^^^^^_ dye. With all this, milking and churning, spinning and weaving, plantmg and hoeing, haying and husking, thresh- ing and gathering apples for cider, all going on in the family, there was not much time for young folks to go to school. One of the most useful farming tools was the flail. With it all the grain that made bread for the family was pounded out by hand on the barn floor. The thumping 118 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD of the flail was as familar as the chopping of the axe as it cut the cords of wood for winter use. An old-time farmer used to say that he could always tell whether the man doing the threshing was working by the day or by the job. If the former, the flail seemed to say, "By the day, by the day, by the day;' ' if by the job, the flail sang merrily, "By-the-job, by-the-job, by the job, job, job." Such is hu- man nature that one is apt to accomplish more when he works for himself. When the right to do this is entirely cut off the result is slavery. Notice the farming operations, pictured on these two pages. Late in March or early in April comes maple sugar making and when the weather gets warm enough to put the sheep into the water, their wool is first washed and then sheared; during the slack time of summer, when planting and hoeing are over, rails can be split for mending the fences, and in the fall the boys can catch rabbits. All these were OLD TIMES AND NEW 119 familiar scenes hereabouts in olden times and are now in some parts of the country. One who wishes to recall in imagi- nation the way of living in the old days may visit the Day house in West Springfield and see the ancient relics. But about the beginning of the nineteenth century several events happened, which in the end changed all this and made Springfield, first, a large town, and then a city. The chief of these was the discovery of the useful power of steam; this meant steamboats and railroads. Others were the invention of the power loom and the spinning jenny, moved at first by water power; this meant the gathering of people into mills and the disappearance of cloth manufacture from the family. Modern machinery, in which Thomas Blanchard, of this town, won much fame as an inventor, began to take the place of human hands, the family life was all changed. There was less to be done and the bigger boys could go to school in summer, when before they could only be spared in the winter. With 120 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD all these changes there was more demand for work and more people began to come from other countries. As the population increased the wild animals gave way before it. The panther retired to forests more remote; the beaver left the streams and the deer went further north and were not seen after 1820. The last bear known at Bear Hole came out of that dark lair about 1790 when Seth Smith was hoeing corn. Wild turkeys lingered but the last survivors were those on Mount Nonotuck about 1850. The beautiful salmon that once leaped and danced in the rapids of Schonunganunk en- tirely disappeared, soon to be followed by the sturgeon and the shad. A century and a half had passed after the settlement and as yet all the crossing of the river had been by canoes, skiffs and scow ferry boats, when one day the minister of the old church foretold a bridge in coming time. "Parson Howard talks like a fool," said Colonel Worthington. But Parson Howard was right and in 1805 the first bridge was completed. Not being strong enough it went down stream; but in 1816 another was ready that was to outlast the century. Its great timbered arches were an object of admiration. When the large droves of cattle that once passed through the country were going over the bridge, running, pushing and throwing their horns about, it was up these arches that the foot traveler could run for safety. Both the bridges were built with money raised by a public lottery, for it was not until later that the evils resulting from getting money by chance were so clearly seen as to make games of chance to be forbidden by law. How Springfield looked from the river, below the town, in 1796, was described by President Dwight of Yale College. who was taking a horseback journey up the valley. "We took," says he, in his "Travels in New England and New OLD TIMES AND NEW 121 York," "a road along the bank of a river from Sufifield through an almost absolute wilderness and crossed a ferry, one mile below Springfield. On the river we were presented with a very romantic prospect. The river itself, for several miles, both above and below, one-fourth of a mile wide, was in full view. Agawam, a considerable tributary on the west, with a large and handsome interval on the tongue between the two streams. Agawam Ferry. joined the Connecticut at a small distance above. The peak of Mount Tom rose nobly in the northwest, at a distance of twelve miles. A little eastward of the Connecticut the white spire of a Springfield church, embosomed in trees, animated the scene in a manner remarkably picturesque. On the side, immediately below the ferry, rose several rude hills, crossed by a sprightly mill stream. At their foot commenced an extensive intervale called Longmeadow; above which, in 122 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the midst of groves and orchards, ascended the spire of Long- meadow church. The evening was just so far advanced, as, without obscuring materially the distinctness of our view, to give an inimitable softening to the landscape. "We arrived at sundown. The town is built chiefly on a single street, lying parallel with the river nearly two miles. 1 nii (til) Toll Bridge. The houses are chiefly on the western side. On the eastern a brook runs almost the whole length; a fact which is, I be- lieve, singular. From the street a marsh extends about forty or fifty rods to the brow of an elevated pine plain. The waters of this marsh are a collection of living springs, too cold and too active to admit of putrefaction on their surface; and for this reason, probably, the town is not unhealthy. Part of this marsh has been converted into a meadow. When OLD TLMES AND NEW 123 the rest has undergone the same process, the beauty of the situation will be not a little improved. The houses of Spring- field are more uniformly well built than those of any other inland town in the state, except Worcester. An uncommon appearance of neatness prevails almost everywhere, refreshing the eye of the traveler." On a Monday, the 27th of November, 1824, a crowd of people was gathered at the foot of Elm street and at other places on the bank of the river. They were watching the com- ing of the first steamboat seen in Springfield. The Barnett must have been an object of great interest as she rounded the bend of the stream and steamed towards the town. On this occasion the following are supposed to have been the words of THE STURGEON TO THE STEAMBOAT. ^^ Jf ■.■7?■^ "What for yc'rc makin' such a dashin' And through the water such a splashin'? I'll tell ye what it's no the fashion In these 'ere ])arts, To make such a confounded buzzin' ; Take care or yc'll disturb our dozin' ! What are ye? first or second cousin To the Sea Sarpent?" Thus did a local rhymer express hinself in one of the news- papers. It was in this period that river steamboats were displacing stages, afterwards themselves to be displaced by railroads. The sturgeon, a fish about as big and long as a man's body, has not, it is believed, been seen in this part of the river for the past twenty-five years. 124 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD A line of small steamboats was established between Spring- field and Hartford. On one of these Charles Dickens embarked when he came to this town in 1842. "It certainly was not called," he wrote, "a small steamboat without reason. I should think it must have been about half a pony power. Mr. Paap, the celebrated dwarf, might have lived and died happily in the cabin, which was fitted with common sash windows, like an ordinary dwell- ing house. These windows had bright red curtains too, hung on slack strings across the lower panes, so that it looked like the parlor of a Lilliputian public house, which had got afloat in a flood or some other water accident, and was drifting nobody knew where. But even in this chamber there was a rocking chair. It would be impossible to get on anywhere, in America, without a rocking chair." It was just before this visit of the great novelist that the railroad had been built from Boston to Springfield. The people of the town had been eager to bring this to pass. They knew that great things would come of it and Justice Willard declared in a public meeting that one would be able to go from Springfield to Boston "between sun and sun." But when he added and "back again," there were those who thought it a wild prophecy. Pictures of the early engines and cars look queer to our eyes. The passengers had to endure some bumping over rough track but they welcomed something faster Connecticut River Steamboat IN A Flood. From " Marco Paul at the Spring- fiold Armory" l.S.'>3. OLD TIMES AND NEW 125 than the old yellow stages, with four horses and a bugle, that connected Springfield with Boston, Albany, Hartford and other towns. The chief engineer of the new railroad was • Major Whistler, whose portrait hangs in the City Library. He brought his boy, James, with him when he came to reside here. James used to amuse his schoolmates with his clever draw- ings and afterwards went abroad, where he became one of the famous artists of the world. His paintings and etchings hang in the great galleries of Europe. When the rail- road was built from Springfield to Hartford it made necessary the removal of the ancient ceme- tery at the foot of Elm street. The training ground and the pound had long since gone and for the cemetery there was now provided a beautiful tract of hill and dell which, for a cemetery, is exceptionally near the heart of the city, yet so full of birds and squirrels, old oaks and tall pines, as to be interesting to a naturalist. To this place was removed the dust of Mary Pynchon, of her brother, the Major, of the brave Captain Holyoke and the good French peddler. The selection of this spot was made by William B. O. Peabody, clergyman, poet, naturalist and a man of pure and refined character, whose life, most of it spent here, was a blessing to the town. By reason of his knowledge of birds the celebrated Audubon once came here to visit him. Verses by him are given on page 39. Two notable men visited Springfield at about the close of this period. One was Louis Kossuth, the Hungarian patriot, a champion of freedom, an exile from his country, and a 126 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD master of thirteen languages. He made here an address in English. The other was Father Mathew, the great apostle of total abstinence, whose wonderful work in Ireland had filled the world with his fame and' made the temperance reform respected and popular. By his own efforts for temperance he had remarkably reduced the amount of crime committed in his own country. Coming to Springfield in 1849 and stand- ing in the church of his own faith, then located on the cor- ner of Union and Willow streets, he administered the pledge to people of all faiths. Many societies that are today organized for total abstinence bear his honored name. The Armory has been a great help to the prosperity of Springfield. We have seen that Washington ap- proved of the location here. When president, he passed through the town and his diary describes his careful inspec- -^^mmar j^gi,a«r' -^i/- tion. Little had ^'^^^^^^^^i*^^^^^ " as yet been done; but later such buildings were erected as Theobald Mathew. OLD TIMES AND NEW 127 A°or allowed a large manufacture. As the words are used in the United States, an armory is a place for the manufacture of arms and an arsenal a place where they are stored. It was decided that the heavy work of forging the bar- rels should be done at the Water- shops, where the trip hammer by water power, 'Armory Hill," ^--.^a« K / :!'' Hv^nffv-^IC^ Bk^HI jyliBMJI^^^-Hraj k^M" a^i ijTjSs ^^^^jSri^ p5^1 £- ir V ^ArlvirW^^^^^ t.>— - ^A »> jSa^ ['■'■ »— =*c -^' 'TT'k ly. -, :>•• • "^'Zi-^^^^r^ ■*SS^ jjfegSffri'wiw JrtBC mH The Spirit cf Training Day. around the lately accepted Gerrish Park. Training Day was one of the great days of the year to old and young. As the last of the soldiers of the Revolution were dropping into their graves, events began to happen which in the end brought forth a mightier army than was ever marshalled in this country before or since. One of these, as we have seen, was John Brown's raid in Virginia, voicing the feelings, though not the policy, of a large part of the north; but the culminating one was the election of Abraham Lincoln to the presidency. Brown ineffectually struck at slavery, but it was for the great president in the midst of a war that shook the very foundations of the nation, to strike slavery down and give freedom to millions of people. It was at Chicago, in 1860, that Lincoln was nominated, and the president of the convention was George Ashmun of this city, a distinguished and able man. He had been in Con- gress and was an intimate friend of the great Daniel Webster, whose famous speeches had already taught the people that the Union could not legally be broken by the secession of any one or more of the states. Webster used often to be in Spring- field, visiting Ashmun, and together they fished in the brooks of Granby or hunted woodcock within the present limits of Forest Park. A memorial of Ashmun remains on the lawn, where was once his residence, at the corner of School and Mulberry streets. Standing there with his little daughter and looking at a small THE CIVIL WAR 141 ffi^^L\ sapling, he remarked, "As the twig is bent, the tree's indined," and twisted the two stems of the saphng. The great elm still stands to teach its lesson that it is in childhood and youth that character is formed. After the Chicago Convention had nominated Lincoln, Mr. Ash- mun, as chairman of the com- mittee, went to Mr. Lincoln's home to inform him of the fact. Some friends had sent in a hamper of wine that the committee and others might drink his health. But Mr. Lincoln, having early in life seen the evil of intemperance, never touched strong drink or offered it in his home. On this occasion, also, he showed the courage of his opinions and cold water took the place of wine. The inauguration of Lincoln was quickly followed by the loss of Fort Sumter at the hands of the rising South. From Spring- field, of course, went forth brave men who should fight the dreadful battles of a four-years' war, to save the Union. Where are now Wilbraham avenue and others streets east of it was a regimental camp, drilling and awaiting orders to move. The children had a share in the great events. The girls made "comfort bags" which held needles, thread and other little needful things for homeless soldiers who had no sisters to sew on buttons or mend a rent, and the boys collected money to pay for those things. There were men needed in the Armory as well as on the field and the works were run night and day. ''^"^'^i/fUr/l,, ASHMUN MeMOKIAL. 142 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD For four years the war went on, with alternating successes and defeats for the north until at last the victories won by General Grant indicated that he would, in the end, bring all out right. Guiding all was the wise Lincoln, criticised, reviled, Making Comfort Bags. weighed down with responsibility, but looking always to a Higher Power for help for himself and the nation. One day the bells of Springfield rang out with joy; the President had made a proclamation freeing the slaves. It was very different from the time when the bell of the old Methodist church on the corner of Union and Mulberry streets was tolled, the day when John Brown was hanged. Only a few years had passed and what, at first, seemed an idle dream of an THE CIVIL WAR 143 enthusiast was now an accomplished fact. Thus "Man pro- poses and God disposes." With great wisdom Lincoln had chosen the day and made the proclamation in which may be read this sentence, "Upon this act, sincerely believed to be an act of justice, warranted by the Constitution, upon military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of mankind and the gracious favor of Almighty God." In the spring of 1865 came the close of the war,, quickly followed by the martyrdom of the President and the linking of his name as saviour of the country with that of Washington, its father. The regiments from Springfield and vicinity were mustered out of service and, returning to the city, made their last march through Main street, their ranks thinned by death and themselves looking worn and tired. But they had done their share in proving the truth of Webster's words, "Liberty and Union, one and inseparable, now and forever." Upon the results of the Revolution and the Civil War the nation rests in security. It was not many weeks after the end of this war that General Grant made a brief visit to this city. He had fought many battles in which his soldiers were armed with the Spring- field musket, and of course, he was interested in the place of its manufacture. He inspected the Armory on the Hill and also the Watershops. He was greeted by a great crowd of citizens near the railroad station and taken upon a high platform whence he was introduced by the mayor, but he made no speech. His deeds were mighty, but on public occa- sions his words were few. There seemed to be nothing military in his appearance, except a narrow cord of yellow braid around his hat and the single star on his shoulder. Among those who came to this city and spoke in the cause of freedom in the days of anti-slavery and the Civil war were 144 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Carl Schurz, the exiled German patriot, who, after becoming a citizen of the United States, became a general in the army in the Civil war and afterwards a famous statesman; and Frederick Douglas, once a slave and afterwards an eloquent orator, who held high positions in the gift of the nation. An interesting woman w^ho resided here was Eliza Farrer. a writer for children. She had had many experiences in various parts of the world and wrote about them in a book, which she called "Recollection of Seventy Years." Two men who had a very wide reputation were the editors, Samuel Bowles and Josiah Gilbert Holland. Doctor Holland wrote many books, of which his "Letters to Young People" were practical and popular. He wrote "Bay Path," an his- torical novel about Mary Pynchon, and started the Century magazine. There is a fine profile of his face on his monument in the old cemetery, made by St. Gaudens, the famous sculptor of the statue in honor of Deacon Chapin on Merrick Park. Samuel Bowles, the second in the line of four journalists "of that name, was one of the founders of modern journalism. He was once unjustly imprisoned in another state for telling the truth about a man who did much evil; for he believed that his journal should be outspoken when the public interests were at stake. CHAPTER X. A LOOK BACKWARDS.— THE SPANISH WAR. TWENTIETH CENTURY. -THE N THE year 1886, Springfield celebrated the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement. A quarter of a millennium had gone by and people looked back and compared the then present with the past. There was an oration and a great pro- cession, including an historical pageant in which many boys and girls took part. The times of William Pynchon were illustrated in costume by those in the procession. The chief marshal was William Pynchon, seventh in descent from the founder. It is when looking back from one of these view points that we realize how great has been the progress of the city in this long period. In this last chapter it will be well to select two examples and see how the modern times differ from the old. One of these examples shall be the means of putting out fires and the other the education cf children. In early days houses were, some of them, shingled, but many thatched with straw. Of course great care had to be taken lest a spark should get into the straw, as it might do from a burning chimney or from some one carrying coals through the street. So the town voted that no one should carry uncovered fire along the street and that every man should sweep out his chimney every month in winter and every two months in summer. He was obliged also to keep 146 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD a ladder of sixteen rungs for better getting at the roof. One man was fined for smoking on a haycock. In order that water might be always at hand the ditch or brook in front of the houses was to be kept well scoured and a good stream running. So when fire came and the roof caught some went up the ladder and others passed up water from the brook. Until after the Revolution this was the only way of putting out a fire. At last some of the citizens bought a little fire engine and gave it to the church for the use of the town. Of course there was no steam about it; the power of steam was not yet known. The engine was merely a pump on wheels. There was a small reservoir for water, called a tub, and the pump handles were long wooden rods at each side called brakes. In order to see it in action let us suppose that it is the year 1810, a year in which a fire occurred in a house on the corner of Dwight and State streets. Whoever has discovered the fire has shouted the alarm. Everybody who hears it shouts "Fire! Fire! Fire!" at the top of his voice. The cry is taken up until probably from Mill river to Round Hill people are shouting "fire!" The bell on the old church is ringing. Every man is obliged to keep a fire bucket and some have bags in which to carry out articles to a place of safety. When a man leaves his house he catches up his bucket, or if he is not at home, thp: old fire department 147 his wife tosses it out to some one who is hurrying by and will give it to the owner when he meets him at the fire. Meanwhile the engine men have opened the door of the engine house, then standing at a place which is now in the roadway of State street, near Market. The machine is pulled out and run up the street to the burning building. Men are Wk ,i^^- . -..-■- -y*v^*->l fit «i* .en/!' O, t :^-|. now running to the scene from all directions. No sooner are they arrived than they take their places in a double line which runs from the house to the town brook. Up one line the buckets full of water are passed only to go rapidly back again when they have been emptied into the tub. Everybody works lively and the tub is kept full. A man standing on the engine directs the stream u]X)n the fire through a short hose. 148 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD The hose is so short, only five feet in length, that the engine must be got very close to the building, and even then it is not very effective to reach the roof. The men at the brake are working with might and main, and between their efforts and those who have got upon the roof and poured on water, the fire is put out. Some of the boarding is burned but the huge beams are only charred, even yet to stand for three-quarters of a century before the old house was to give way to a modern building. It was some years after this that a longer hose came into use and also a suction hose, so that the engine standing by the brook could suck up its own water and the firemen could reach with the long hose the Main street houses. As building on Main street increased in height this was very im- portant. One night the Hampden house at the northeast corner of Court Square took fire. As the hose was being taken up the stairs the firemen met a colored songstress, who had given a concert that evening. She was known as "the Black Swan." Frantic with excitement, she exclaimed, "Save me, I'm the Black Swan." "Look out, then," said a fireman, "or you'll get your feathers scorched." Of course the town brook was of no use except in the old part of the town, so, as the city increased, large reservoirs kept full by rains were constructed under the streets. Several of these remain, as, for example, one on Union street near Mulberry. The old engine was in time replaced by another and then others were added, the "Lion," the "Tiger," the "Niagara" and the "Cataract;" THE OLD FIRE DEPARTMENT 149 then the "Eagle" and the "Ocean;" and there was a hook and ladder company manned by Germans. It was in those days of several hand engines that "Fire- men's Muster" was a favorite holiday. The procession was gay with the red coats, shining black hats and blue trousers of the men as they pulled at the ropes attached to their engines and hose carts. After the procession the "Lions" and the "Tigers," the "Niagaras" and the "Cataracts," the "Eagles" and the "Oceans" would have a grand trial of strength to see whose engine was best and who could pump the hardest and reach the highest point on a tall flagstaff, or, it might be, the steeple of the First church. The best engine, if well manned, could wet the rooster. To the comb of the rooster the distance is 169 feet. The bird himself is five feet high. He came over from London about the year 1750 and has looked down on generations of firemen and upon soldiers going out to several wars. A likely tradition has it that an eagle once alighted upon him and was shot from below. In 1902 one of these birds was seen hovering over St. Michael's cathedral. They are almost all gone who tried to reach the rooster in friendly rivalry with the old hand engines, and in these days the firemen have so much serious business that there is not much opportunity for sport. The great steam fire engines, the chemical engines, the hose tower, the extension ladders, the electric alarm and other devices for coping with big fires, aided by a water service that makes the town brook and rain water cisterns seem ridiculous, form a marked contrast be- tween old and new times. If a man's house burned down he lost all and his neighbors helped him to erect another. Now 150 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD he collects the insurance from some company that he has paid to guarantee him against loss. The fine building of the Spring- field Fire and Marine Insurance Company probably had in itself a cost of construction equal to the value of all the build- ings in the town when the Indians gave it to the torch. We have already seen how simple the schools were in olden times and what sort of things the boys and girls used to do when out of school. The schools did not change much until the Ancient Schoolhouse of West Springfield. nineteenth century. There were but few things taught and those not particularly well. Nevertheless hard work counted, as it always does when applied to something useful. As in the second chapter we made an imaginary visit to the meeting- house, so we will now look into one of the schools of a hundred years ago, say, the school on Armory Hill, or in the Water- shops district or at Putts Bridge or some other school of the outer districts. In the summer the school has been taught by a woman, but now the farm work is over and the big boys, no longer needed for work, are coming in for their winter schooling. OLD TIME SCHOOLS 151 A man is needed for the winter term and a strong one, for the big boys hke to show their strength and will measure it with the teacher the very first day. Some years they suc- ceeded in putting a school- master out of doors ; they have even been known to rub him in the snow. If he could not handle them his usefulness was over. The teacher of this year was a good wrestler. He de- termined to meet the boys in a friendly spirit and challenged the strongest for a wrestling match. He won and was henceforth the master, and thus he was always called; a title that meant a good deal, when the spirit of insubordination was liable to break forth, as often it did, in an old time school. This was not so strange, considering the fact that the teacher was supposed to rule with a rod. If it was not a rod, it might be a birch stick and many a boy has been sent out to cut one for his own back. This old master wished only to cause tem- porary pain in his punishments, so he generally used a strap, which only stung for a. moment The boys called it "the tug." 152 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD NEW ENGLAND PRIMER. As we enter the schoolroom we see the master at a rude desk in a corner. He is engaged in mending pens. They are 11 of goose quills and to be able to put a neat point on them is one of his valuable accomplishments. On the desk is a sand box. Blot- ting paper is unknown, and to dry the ink some black sand is poured upon it out of pin holes in the sand box. The older children who have need to write have long desks in front of them, while the younger are seated on benches with backs. Perhaps the As runs the Glass, Man's life doth pass. My book and Heart Shall never part. Job feels the Rod, Yet blesses God. Proud Korah's troop Was swallow'd up. The Lion bold The lamb doth hold. TheMoon gives light In time of night. no G H IJ K L M writing lesson comes first, in which case the master produces some slips of paper neatly written with such sentences as, "Command the mind and then the pen;" and these the scholars copy. These copies the teacher would take with him if he went to another school. The reading lesson may be from the "English Reader," or from "Webster's Spelling Book," or, perhaps, from the "New England Primer," in which last the younger scholars learned to re- member the alphabet by such verses and pictures as those on this page. Notice that I and J were con- sidered as equivalent in old printing. OLD TIME SCHOOLS 153 Peculiar punishments were more common in olden times than now. The dunce cap belongs to a forgotten past but the writer remembers a so-called dunce-block, — the end of a huge beam painted red, in one of the lower grades of the Springfield schools, upon which silly boys were made to sit. There are now scarcely any coun- try schools left in vSpringfield and the country work and sports have largely passed away. Few boys know how to milk and no girl can spin. The husking bees that made good times in the great barns on Main street are no more. Thanks to pond and hill, skating and coasting are yet in vogue, although for the safety of all, including children, restric- tions have to be imposed upon coasting on the more traveled streets. Sometimes the young To The Central Street Coasters Shout, boys and girls, The victory's won! The cranky folks Can't spoil your fun. Bring out your sleds An' let 'em speed ; The aldermen Have all agreed To let you have The jolly treat Of coasting still On Central street. 1887 people have successfully opposed the placing of these restrictions, as appears from some con- temporary verses in the Homestead. A spirit of independence, if in obedience to the laws, is admirable, as in the case of the Boston boys who remonstrated with General Gage when the British soldiers spoiled their coasting. Notwithstanding the more meager results and rougher ways, yet, so far as we can judge from what old scholars have left on record about it. the school life of other days contributed 154 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD to that happy joyousness which belongs to childhood and youth. Take, for example, from the High School Portfolio, published by the boys and girls in the fifties, these verses from which the fun bubbles up above all the mishaps. WADING THROUGH THE SNOW When the winds are blowing Hard, with all their might, And the snowdrifts measure More than half your height, Friends and schoolmates, have you — Now I want to know — Ever had the pleasure Of wading through the snow? TheTTWeathervane of THE Old High School, Court Square, Show- ing Bullet Holes. Height, Three Feet. Dozen books to carry, Dinner basket full, And a great umbrella. On our way to school. Sixty miles an hour Railroad cars do go; Mercy ! don't we beat 'em Wading through the snow? Falling into snowdrifts. Dropping every book, Losing all the cookies And the pie we took ; Feet and fingers frozen. Patience nearly so ; Ain't it awful funny Wading through the snow ? Opposite the arsenal Half-past eight we see; Goodness ! we must hurry, Else, tardy we shall be. So we set to running Fast as we can go, Take two steps and tumble Headlong in the snow. Finally we halted At the schoolhouse door. With our journey ended, And our danger o'er; So with joyful faces Up the stairs we go; Think again you'll catch us Wading through the .snow'' OLD TIME SCHOOLS 155 It was years after that the same girl described her hfe in one of the grammar schools in some verses, from which the following are taken, called A TRIBUTE TO AN OLD TEACHER Our memory wakes, and we recall The little, dreary, sandy yard. The schoolroom with its dingy wall, The straight-backed benches, stiff and hard; The songs, long since, gone out of date. With which the schoolroom used to ring ; And the old-fashioned book and slate. Yes, we remember everything. > But over all has come a change : This is an unfamiliar place; The only thing that is not strange Is our beloved teacher's face. Oh, could we take our dusty books, And once more trudge away to school. And sit beneath those gracious looks That softened e'en the strictest rule. "This is an Unfamiliar Place." And could we hear his words of praise. That were so precious to our ears. And feel the patience of his ways. That never failed through all those years, We should not tease and vex him now With whispering, carelessness, and noise; Of course, we should have sport somehow, But we should be good girls and boys. 156 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Sprirxgfield schools rank high among those of the country: in what respects do they excel those of the olden time? In many ways. In the matter of buildings the}^ are better housed and equipped. They excel in teaching children to put their thoughts into writing; in bringing them near to nature by the study of birds and flowers; in giving them the usefulness and joy that come from knowledge of drawing and painting; in connecting their studies with the many good books of a large city library and the collections in the Art Museum. The kindergarten and manual training work are new. In general, the methods ^ of teaching have so improved that more can be done in the same time, and the principles laid down by the great philoso- pher, Francis Bacon, and by modern ed- ucators have been most successfully applied. There was, in the schools of Springfield, a boy who, as he grew up, became a lover of good books, good pictures and good deeds. When he graduated from the high school his spoken essay, composed by himself, was on the subject, "The Measure of Life." It is remembered that in it he tried to make his schoolmates feel the truth of the saying "Man shall not "Man Shall Not Live by Bread Alone." OLD TIME SCHOOLS 157 live by bread alone, but by every word that proceedeth out of the mouth of God." Thus early did he come to know that the best things were to be chosen. He passed through college w4th credit but not long after that his earthly life closed. Nevertheless through him several things were made possible for Springfield. His name was Eugene Aston. He had a refined taste in art and for him is named the ' ' Aston Collection of Wood Engravings," in the City Library. The art of engraving on wood is an interesting one but now, unfortunately, becoming obsolete. It is one of the ob- jects of this history to show by its illustrations what work can be done by drawing or engraving with lines as compared with the work of photography. In the Aston Collection may be found some of the best examples of wood engravings that this country has produced. The effect is obtained with a sharp tool making lines on the surface of a block usually of the wood of the Box tree. As the block sometimes splits, the printing is generally done from an electrotype which ingeni- ously duplicates in the metal the raised and depressed surfaces of the block. Springfield has had good engravers on copper and steel, like Goldthwaite and Chubbuck, and on wood, like Cleaves and Howard. The cuts on pages 68 and 80, from a school book of early days are rude indeed, as compared with the highly finished work of Cleaves on page 121, or the piece of commercial work over-leaf. In this book photography has been used in reproducing engravings from old books, as on pages 26, 41, 45; but where the lines of the original are deli- cate, as on page 134, they cannot be equalled in the copy. The cuts on pages 31 and 54 are printed from electrotypes of blocks loaned by the publishers of Webster's dictionary, a book which has carried the name of Springfield all over 158 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the world. Illustrations like those on pages 77 and 115 are photographic reductions of pen drawings. The engravings on pages 118-119 are reproductions from Anderson, the pioneer wood engraver of America. This cut of a gun by Howard is electro- typed from wood. It would be well to take a magnifying glass and see by what delicate lines the engraver got the mottled effect of the French walnut knot of which the butt is made. Notice also how the surface of the iron parts is made to suggest the original. Results of a very different kind and yet equally artistic though often less difficult can be produced by the use of a very few lines, as in the cut of a woman churning, on page 45. In both cases careful drawing is of the very first importance. Good coloring cannot make up for bad drawing. It was in the nineteenth century that people began to be especially interested in the early history of the town. George Bliss, Oliver B. Morris, and his son, Henry Morris, gave much attention to this subject and the latter was the first President of the Con- necticut Valley Historical Society. This society was organized in 1876, the Centen- nial year, when the people of this country really began to look back on the nation's past. Its volumes of published proceedings contain interesting reading about old Springfield. THE STUDY OF LOCAL HISTORY 159 The city is also known outside by the historical publica- tions of the house of Gurdon Bill, who was the donor of the Soldiers' Monument on Court Square, and its successor, the C. A. Nichols Company. The publications of this house include Holland's "Life of Lincoln," Abbott's "History of the Civil War," "Our First Century," "History for Ready Reference," a book much used in school and college, and "Rise and Fall of Nations." Green's "History of Springfield," published at the time of the quarter millennial of the city, largely as a personal contribution of Mr. Nichols to the occasion, is a monumental work reflecting credit on author and publisher. To it this book is indebted for fourteen plates, like those on pages 20, 33, 12L Other books dealing with local history, to which the reader is referred for further study, are Morris' "Early History of Springfield," Holland's "History of Western Massachusetts," Copeland's "History of Hampden County," Everts' "History of the Connecticut Valley," Ellis and Morris' "History of King Philip's War," Burt's "First Century of the History of Springfield," King's "Handbook of Springfield," Wright's "Indian Deeds of Hampden County," Ward's "Springfield in the Spanish- American War," Stebbins' "Wil- braham," Bagg's "West Springfield," Chapin's "Inhabitants of Old Springfield" and "Old High School," Storrs' "Long- meadow," Palmer's "Chicopee Street," and Barrows' "Poets and Poetry of Springfield." "I have but one lamp," said Patrick Henry, "by which my feet are guided and that is the lamp of experience." The experience of the past, embodied in history, as it becomes better known, helps us better to understand our own time and thus to make better the coming times. Interest in histor- ical study is sometimes promoted by the drama, as with Shakespeare's Henry VIII and Richard III. How this can be 160 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD done locally was shown by the historical pageant presented by the Central High School in 1909, in which costume, music and action united in presenting to the imagination a striking picture of Colonial days. In 1892 occurred the four hundredth anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus. In Springfield the event was celebrated by the Hebrews. Rejoicing in this free republic, they gathered for religious services; and also listened to an address by one of the sons of Springfield, descended from the two townsmen who met their death at the foot of Long Hill, as described in the fifth chapter. As may be inferred from designs of the city seal, manu- facturers and trade have long since replaced agriculture as the basis of Springfield's prosperity. William Pynchon himself was a trader, an honest and successful one, and there have been others like him in these respects, some born here and others coming from elsewhere. Our mechanics and manu- facturers alone would make an interesting study. They are the direct representatives of William Pynchon, who dealt in native furs and foreign goods and made boards and shingles. If they know the history of the town they have before them his illustrious example of honorable dealing. It was just before the Civil war that Horace Smith and Daniel B. Wesson became partners in the manufacture of pistols. When the war came on there was great demand for pistols and these two men acquired fortunes, for they were good mechanics and understood business. They trusted each other and others trusted them and wanted their good work. They did not keep all their wealth to themselves and their families. One of Mr. Smith's ways of doing good was by helping young men and women to an education. He enjoyed this; and, dying without immediate heirs, gave most of his SOME FORMS OF PUBLIC SERVICE 161 property to charity. The Horace Smith Fund perpetuates one of his own favorite ways of doing good. His hfe may be taken as an iUustrious example of Benevolence, a quality of character which is not denied to any, whether rich or poor. Daniel B. Wesson was also benevolent, for, although he left a numerous posterity, he devoted an important part of his estate to the building of two hospitals. For our purposes, however, w^e may take his life as illustrating another moral quality. Whatever he made or had made, he determined should be made the best it could be, whether it was a pistol or a great hospital or the fence about the hospital. On one occasion, reading that a pistol of his manufacture had fallen from a shelf and, being fired by the fall, killed a woman, he lay awake nearly all night studying a device for preventing such an accident in the future, and before morning broke he had the invention in his mind. He thought whatever was worth doing at all was worth doing well and his life may be taken as an illustrious example of Perfection of Workmanship, a quality of highest import and almost universal application, if only in something so humble as the putting a point on a pencil or making a loaf of bread. A second man, Primus P. Mason, may be mentioned here, of the race of Peter Swink of the third chapter, who by industry and thrift acquired property and, dying without issue, exe- cuted a cherished plan by giving his estate to found a Home for Aged Men. In early times it was the men who did most of the things of which history has to tell; but in later times the women have taken a useful part in the public life of the city. Among them was Clara T. Leonard, who gave herself, heart and soul, to prison reform in the interest of women. Deeply interested in the welfare of the young, she founded the Hampden County 162 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD Children's Aid Society, whose work is still going on. A second organization working for the same purpose is the Society of St. Vincent de Paul, named for the famous French Philanthro- pist. Both exist for the care of homeless and suffering children. Another devoted woman was Adelaide A. Calkins, who, with Ellen B. Merriam, a graduate of the Springfield High School, was the first among the women of the city to fill one of its public offices by becoming a member of the school committee. She gave twelve years of fruitful service to the cause of educa- tion and other years sis an official of the Commonwealth towards improving the almshouses of the State of Massachusetts. United in friendship, Mrs. Leonard and Mrs. Calkins spent many years in work for the common good. Adelaide A. Calkins. Clara T. Leonard. In 1898 there was war between the United States and Spain, growing out of inhumanities practiced by the Spanish authorities on the Cubans. The seat of war was the island of Cuba. One morning in May the Springfield companies of the Second Regiment, composed almost entirely of young men, some of them scarcely out of their boyhood, marched from the State Arsenal through Main street to the railroad station. How much the composition of the citizens had changed since the early days when they were almost all of THE SPANISH WAR 163 English or Scotch stock is shown by the fact that among the list of officers and privates occur names that are Irish, Ger- man, Scandinavian, French, Italian and Hebrew. The regiment camped in Framingham and soon was on its way to Florida, whence it was to embark. Merrily did the soldiers sing "Tramp, tramp, tramp the boys are marching; Cheer up, Cuba, we will come," but once on Cuban soil they were face to face with the horrors of war. Young Arthur Packard, who first enlisted at fifteen, was killed at the battle of El Caney. Thomas Boon, having been transferred to the signal corps, was sent up in a war balloon for observa- tions on the enemy at the siege of Santiago. The balloon, having been struck at a great height by fragments of a shell, fell, and young Boon was caught in a tree and entangled with its anchor and was afterwards dropped in the water of a creek. He received severe injuries which proved fatal after his return to Springfield. There were others in these companies who met their deaths on the battlefield or at the hands of exposure and disease, including Henry Macdonald, chief of the city's police. They died for the freedom of Cuba and their names are on the monu- ment at the foot of Round Hill. There was an old saying of ^^BA U©^^ Arthur H. Packard. 164 HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD the Romans, "Didce et decorum est pro patria mori,'' — "It is sweet and fitting to die for one's country." These went at the call of their country to die for the people of another land and their names and deeds are cherished, together with the names and deeds of those who fell in the making and the saving of this nation. Equally honored, however, although not mourned, are those who returned to live honorable lives under the banner of peace. In the year 1800 the population of Springfield was 2250; in 1900 it was 62,059. A large part of the latter increase had, of course, been due to immigration from abroad. The large families of the older stock had become the exception and now came people from Sweden, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Greece, Armenia and China. There had been an increasing Irish and German element from earlier times. There were people of French descent from Canada but not in any number from France itself; nor from Spain, Portugal or Japan; but there were Hebrews from many countries. These all have come, giving up their old allegiance, to take the name American, to defend the Constitution and to love and honor the Stars and Stripes. Like the ancient settlers of Pynchon's day, they have had to give up many old ways and to learn what, for this country, are better ones. Like the earlier settlers it is for them gradually to lose sight of old customs, the old lan- guage and the old nationality in the fusion of peoples in the new land. "Americanism," as President Roosevelt has said, "is a question of principle, of purpose, of idealism, of character; and not a matter of birthplace, or creed, or line of descent." The one hundredth anniversary of the settlement was the occasion of a "Century Sermon," by Rev. Robert Breck and the two hundredth anniversary of an historical address by Judge Oliver B. Morris. A feature of the two hundred and THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 165 fiftieth anniversary was a procession illustrating the historical events and the industries of the city. The address was by Judge Henry Morris. In 1911 much attention was given to local history in the schools and the day commemorating the two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary was ushered in with a proclamation by criers and the public exercises included addresses, a poem, the singing of songs of the Civil War, and in the schools, of the anniversary hymn. A loan exhibition brought together many things ancient and interesting. The change to a new century was observed. The last century of the present era was the second millenium about to begin, called the twentieth century. The people of Spring- field felt the importance of the event. As the hour drew on to midnight, some gathered in their places of worship, others were upon the streets or awaiting in their homes the next stroke of the clock. The bells of the city rang out all together, tolling in slow and measured strokes the death of the old century. When the public clocks began to strike the hour of twelve, the bells changed to joyful notes of greeting for the century just beginning, and the great guns on Armory Square began to thunder their salute. This was in the two hundred and sixty-fifth year of the history of Springfield and the one hundred and twenty-fifth year of the independence of the United States. 166 r HISTORY OF SPRINGFIELD ANNIVERSARY HYMN Sung May 25, 1886 At the 250th Anniversary of the City of Springfield Tune: "Portuguese Hymn." O God of our fathers ! Their Guide and their Shield, Who marked out Thy pathway through forest and field, We stand where they stood, and with anthems of praise Acknowledge Thy goodness, O Ancient of Days ! Thou leddest Thy people of old like a flock ; They trusted in Thee as their Sheltering Rock; The centuries pass, — Thou art ever the same. And children of children still trust in Thy name. 'Twas here in the wilderness, silent, untamed. The gospel of freedom and grace they proclaimed, — The gospel of home, of the school, of the plow, — And this City of Homes is their monument now. O God of our fathers! By river and wood Where Pynchon and Holyoke and Chapin abode, Our heritage blossoms with glory and praise, To Thee, our Defender, O Ancient of Days! — £>ver, 1839-1896 APPENDIX 168 APPENDIX ^--■;9=5;:5^jre ■ / -i /V ^7 "tf^f^l^ -^v ■>",.. f^-' / ^»*«t:- ^cf^y-Ti S^ ..^^^^.^iSkJ Signatures to the agreement of the Indians with the eight original settlers of Springfield FACSIMILE OF DEED BETWEEN WILLIAM PYNCHON AND THE INDIANS A ('■ M~\je of Cjra- Ixhc^e.x C^<~--f^ Q^,r>^ 'f ^■'<^^*><'^i^<^entpa,^^'^j^^^. "»^ ^i t-^ &//• ^„:^ /r/^ '/'^^"^'ly^r*^ M*.T Oi.i) Indian Deki OUR FIRST NEWS OF THE BATTLE OF LEXINGTON Watertown Wednesday morning 10 o'clock. "To all the friends of American Liberty be it known that this morning before break of day a Brigade consisting of about 1000 or 1200 men landed at Phips' Farm at Cambridge and marched to Lexington where they found a company of our Colony Militia in arms upon whom they fired without any provocation and killed six and wounded four others by an ex- press this moment from Boston we find another Brigade are now on their march from Boston supposed to be about 1000. The bearer Mr. Isaac Bissell charged to alarm the country quite to Connecticut and all persons are desired to furnish him with such horses as they may be needed. I have spoke with several persons who have seen the dead and wounded. Pray let the Delegates from this Colony to Connecticut see this they know J. Palmer one of the Com. of S — y Col. Foster is one of the Delegates." "Spirit of 1917" THE AMERICAN CREED (National Society Sons of American Revolution) "I believe in the United States of America as a Kovernment of the people, by the people, for the people, whose just powers are derived from the consent of the governed; a democracy in a republic; sovereign nation of many sovereign States; a perfect Union, one and inseparable, established upon those principles of freedom, equality, justice, and humanity for which American patriots sacrificed their lives and fortunes. "I therefore believe it is my duty to my country to love it; to support its Constitution; to obey its laws; to respect its flag, and to defend it against all enemies." Note — The original of the above illustration, by Norman Rockwell, hangs in the Banking Room of the Third National Bank as a tribute to the young men who .served in the World War. SPRINGFIELD IN THE WORLD WAR The world war began August 2, 1914, and the armistice was signed November 11, 1918. Springfield contributed its part by furnishing men, money and materials necessary to conduct the plans of our government to a successful end. The city, during this period, raised thousands of dollars by successful drives known as the Red Cross drive, the Triangle drive, the Knights of Columbus drive, Hospital drive. War Chest drive. Liberty Bond drive, Victory drive and Library drive. (Citizens contributed 40,000 books.) During these several drives, soldiers who had been wounded in the war, came from England, France, Italy, Canada and Belgium, to Springfield and other cities to relate their experiences in battle and to urge people to make every sacrifice to bring the war to a close. Women and girls contributed their quota by working in- defatigably crocheting, knitting and sewing, at home, in halls, on street cars, and in places of amusement. The 104th regiment, which was known before the war as the 2nd Massachusetts regiment, under command of Col. William C. Hayes, left Springfield September 13, 1917, with about 1,200 men. On reaching France at a time when the crisis was near, this regiment was placed in the thickest of the fight and experienced some of the worst fighting which ever fell to the lot of soldiers of any period in history. Springfield gave its farewell to these men, and on their return, April 28, 1919, received and did them honor. The regiment lost during this sad experience about 800 men. France honored this regi- ment by decorating it oa the field of battle, and it was the only 174 APPENDIX regiment from the United States so decorated. The ancestors of Gen. Clarence R. Edwards, the commander of the 26th division, from New England, known as the "Yankee Division" lived in Springfield on Chestnut street, — Edwards street being part of the Edwards home lot. During the war the United States armory and the Water- shops, where rifles were made for our army, were strictly guarded, as were the buildings of the Eastern States Exposi- tion in West Springfield, which were used by the government for the storing and shipping of war material, and our Technical High School building on Elhot street which was used during the summer for instructing soldiers in technical work and drill. Cardinal Mercier, the primate of Belgium, a war hero, visited Springfield October 5 and 6, 1919. The French government sent thirty-three young girls to this city, at the close of the war, to be instructed in our Com- mercial High School. Many of them had practical experience in our local business offices before returning to France. WORLD WAR ROLL OF HONOR WAS REPRESENTED IN THE HIGH SCHOOLS OF SPRINGFIELD AS FOLLOWS: Central 505 Commercial 192 Technical 625 Parochial 145 HISTORICAL AND LITERARY LANDMARKS OF SPRINGFIELD Early settlers of Springfield lived on or near the present |^^'"^\y^g Main street. Henry Smith, one of the three first selectmen and a son-in-law of William Pynchon, had his home at the corner of Main and Bridge streets. Miles Morgan, a tithing master in the First church, lived on the south side of Ferry lane, the present Cypress street. (A statue of Mr. Morgan by J. S. Hartley stands on Court Square). The son of WiUiam Pynchon, John Pynchon, the strong business man of pioneer days, lived at the corner of Main and Fort streets. His house was used as a fort during the Indian attack on Springfield in 1675. It remained standing until 1831. A reproduction of it appears on the city seal. The first burying ground, "God's acre," was back of the The First J & & ' Burying First church at the foot of Elm street. The stones marking Ground the resting places of early settlers were removed when the tracks of the new New York, New Haven, and Hartford Rail- road were laid in 1848. They are now arranged in three rows near the Pine street entrance of the Peabody Cemetery. The Bay Path, a name which Holland has immortalized The Bay . . . . . I'lt^ by making it the title of an historical novel whose scene is laid in Springfield, is supposed to represent the route, at first a mere trail, by which the early settlers travelled to and from Boston. All Saints' Church, an Episcopal house of worship on ciJ^^plf**' Oakland street, is modeled after a church of the same name in Springfield, England, where William Pynchon worshipped. The First Church on Court Square was completed in 1819 chur^'h"' 176 APPENDIX and is the fourth building in its history. The architect was Isaac Damon who also built the toll bridge. The "rooster" weathervane was brought over from England about 1750. The first church building was finished in 1645. Lan7 Ferry lane, the present Cypress street, was the northern one of the three lanes leading from the "town street" (Main street) to the river. Here travelers took the ferry across the river to Woronoco. At the middle, or "Meeting house lane" (Elm street) and at the southern one (York street) ferries took townspeople to the opposite meadows. Washington landed at the foot of Ferry lane on his visit to Springfield. The Town Brook The Town Brook or Garden Brook is a stream made by the springs with which Armory hill abounds. It formerly ran on the surface and spread out over the plain, making a marshy tract between Dwight and Main streets known as the "Has- socky marsh". In order to affect a passage across this marsh a "causeway" or corduroy road, resting on logs and two rods wide, was built. The brook divided at Worthington street, part flowing north and the other south into the Connecticut River. the^stock- ^ marker on the grounds of the St. Vincent Home on Long village Hill Street, opposite Spruceland Avenue, indicates the site of the stockaded village of the Agawam Indians and their fort, both of which were vacated when they burned Springfield in 1675. CoTife^ A marker at the corner of Mill and South Main streets, and^south is near the spot where the Indians, during King Philip's war, streets on the 5th of October, 1675, killed Lieut. Thomas Cooper, the contractor under whose direction the first building of the First Church organization was built, and Constable Thomas Miller. APPENDIX 177 These two men had started out together to meet and treat with the Indians who were coming to attack the town. The "Boston stone" on Benton Park near Federal Street The "Boston was erected in 1763 "for the benefit of travellers" by Joseph Wait, a Brookfield merchant who had lost his way in a snow- storm. Masonic symbols are carved upon it and it bears the marks of the bullets fired during Shays' rebellion. The boulder on Benton park is a memento to the following The Bouider on Benton event as inscribed on the stone : ' * This tablet marks the battle Park place of Shays' rebellion, January 25, 1787." Shays' rebellion was an uprising due to discontent with existing conditions following the Revolutionary war. It was led by Daniel Shays of Pelham who raised a force of 2,000 men. Court Square, opened in 1819, is the central common of court ._ , . i-TTiA'i Square the city. It was made over to the county oi Hampden, April 14, 1821, by five well known citizens "In order", as they said, ' ' that there may be an open square or yard for the use of the inhabitants of the county near the courthouse, divers persons have, at a great expense, purchased this land." The site was once occupied by Parsons tavern, the old inn where Washington stayed on his way to Cambridge. The toll bridge was built in 1816 by Capt. Isaac Damon xheToii Hridgc who was the architect of the First Church. Tolls were taken until 1872. The first town hall was hiuilt in 1828 on the corner of State ^he First Town Hall and Market streets. It is now in use as a business block. A city hall on west Court Street succeeded this and the present municipal group is its successor. John Brown, famous in connection with the Civil War, ■^"'"' '^■""^■" conducted a business in Springfield as a wool merchant from 1846 to 1849. His warehouse was on the northwest corner of 178 APPENDIX Main and Lyman streets. He lived at 26 and 43 Franklin Street and on Gray's Avenue. The house, No. 43 Franklin Street, was later moved to Greenwood Street and is still stand- ing. He is said to have maintained a station of the "Under- ground railroad" here. £^®j^ Mrs. C. C. Chaffee, owner of Dred Scott, who figured in the Missouri Compromise, once lived at 154 Chestnut Street. Hous^''^ T^^ ^^y house in West Springfield, a quaint brick structure at the right of the Common, was built in 1754 by Joseph Day and occupied by Days for nearly 150 years. The front door shows marks said to have been made by the tomahawks of the Indians. Daniel Shays took formal possession of the house in 1787. The Hessians from Burgoyne's army encamped in front of the house on the Common in 1777. Many unauthentic legends center about the place. It is now in the possession of the Ramapogue Historical Society and is used as a museum of New England antiquities. First Roman jj^ 1835 thc Catholics assembled for their first mass, which Catholics in Springfield ^g^g }iq\(^ {^ a privatc housc near the corner of Mill and Dickin- son streets. A large Catholic population now worships in numerous churches, and Springfield is the home of the Bishop. Hon^George Hou. Gcorge Ashmun, a friend of Daniel Webster's, pre- sided at the Republican Convention which nominated Abraham Lincoln, 1860. His home was at the northeast corner of Mul- berry and School streets. J.G.Holland j_ G. Hollaud, author of "The Bay Path", spent the years of his literary career in Springfield. A part of the time he was on the editorial staff of the Springfield Republican. He wrote "Kathrina" at Brightwood, a name he gave his home in the north end of the city, which was afterwards applied to the whole section. When living at 115 High street, he wrote APPENDIX 179 "Bittersweet". The monument which marks his grave in the Peabody cemetery bears a bronze portrait rehef by St. Gaudens. George Bancroft, the historian, once hved at 49 Chestnut George ° Bancroft Street. It was later the home of a consul general of Paris and of Lieut. Governor W. H. Haile. Still later it became the residence of George Walter Vincent Smith, the donor of the collection in the Art Museum. Tames McNeill Whistler, an artist of world wide fame, james McNeill when a boy of five lived on Chestnut Street, just south of whistier Mattoon Street. While he was still a small boy his father, Major Whistler, was called to Russia by the Czar to assist in building railroads. His portrait of his mother is one of the famous paintings of the world. Jenny Lind, the "Swedish nightingale," gave a concert inJenny Lind the First Church, July 1, 1851. Tickets were $4.00, $5.00, and $6.00, and the church was crowded to the doors. She remained in the city nearly a week at the home of Jeremy Warriner, 43 Howard Street, in rooms newly furnished for her use. On July 4th, between five and six hundred children, some of whom were from nearby towns, headed by a band marched to the front of the Warriner home. Jenny Lind "dressed in a morning robe of heavy pink and white stripe took her seat upon the balcony of the house, receiving graciously the bouquets which the children threw her, and greeting with smiles of delight the songs which they sang to her." The Springfield Republican is the oldest newsijapcr now Ti.e . . SprinRfield published m the city. It had its beginning as a weekly paper Republican in 1824 with 250 subscribers, and owed its existence to Samuel Bowles. His son, grandson, and great grand nephew succeeded him as editors. The daily edition was established in 1844. 180 APPENDIX Dictfonary Wcbster's Dictionary is a Connecticut Valley product. The first edition, which appeared in 1828, was edited by Noah Webster, who spent twenty years in its preparation while living in Hartford, New Haven, and Amherst. This edition consisted of 2,500 copies and was published in Hartford. At Noah Webster's death in 1843, G. and C. Merriam, of Spring- field, purchased the work, and the numerous editions, cul- minating in "The New International," which have since appeared, have been published by their successors, the G. and C. Merriam Co. A FEW IMPORTANT INSTITUTIONS IN SPRINGFIELD The City Library opened the doors of its present building city . Library (the second in its history) in January, 1912, with a collection of 170,000 books. The number of books is rapidly doubling, and doubtless in the not distant future will reach the capacity of the building, 500,000 volumes. The cost was $355,000 of which $155,000 was given by citizens, the remainder by Andrew Carnegie. The architect was Edward L. Tilton. The Hbrary is governed by a corporation of which the Mayor, the President of the Common Council, and the Superintendent of Schools are members ex-officio. The city appropriates a sum annually for its use and large endowments have been made by citizens. It ranks very high among libraries in the country for its use- fulness. It has three branch libraries — at Indian Orchard, at Forest Park, and at Memorial Square, and has over 400 dis- tributing stations in such places as schools, fire stations, in- dustrial plants, etc. The City Library Association was organized in 1857. Previous to that the Young Men's Institute had purchased books and lent them to their friends. These they presented to the Association as the nucleus of the new library. In 1859 a room was secured in the City Hall, and in 1861 a librarian was appointed, Dr. William Rice, who held the position thirty-six years. Under his administration the first building was erected in 1871 at a cost of $100,000 contributed by citizens. In 1885 the library was made free — up to that time there was a fee of $1.00 a year. 182 APPENDIX The Art Museum contains a very unusual collection of works of art including paintings, sculpture, arms and armor, antique furniture, keramics, glass, cloisonne enamels, carved jade, ivories and wood, bronzes, silver, gold lacquers, illumi- nated missals, oriental rugs, laces, embroideries, textiles, etc., the gift of George Walter Vincent Smith who has spent a life- time in gathering the collection. In the same building is a collection of sculpture, purchased from funds left by Horace Smith of the firm Smith & Wesson. The building was completed in 1895 and the architects were Renwick, Aspinwall and Ren- wick and Walter T. Owen. The money was raised by private subscription. The Museum of Natural History, which began its existence in the library rooms in 1859, entered its present building October 16, 1899. Gardner, Pyne and Gardner, were the archi- tects, and it represents a cost of $30,000. The collections, which cover a wide range, were gifts, most of them from citizens. The museum not only serves as a place for exhibit, but is active in conducting clubs, classes, and lecture courses. It also has a collection of books on natural science, contributed and constantly added to by the alumnae of the Howard School. It is called the Catharine L. Howard Library in memory of the founder of the school. The Central High School was completed in 1898. At that time its seating capacity of 800 was sufficient to house the entire high school. The architects were Hartwell and Rich- ardson. The first high school was held at 43 to 47 School Street, the second one was built on Elm Street on the site of the court house in 1841, the third, in 1849, on the site of the Administration building. A fourth one, west of the present one, was erected in 1874. The enrollment in 1852 when APPF.NDIX 183 Springfield was made a city was 2,270. In 1920 it had about 25,000 inhabitants. The High School of Commerce was organized in 1898 in High school . .of Commerce the Central High School with two instructors. In 1906 it was transferred to the Technical High School, and in 1916 to the present building with an enrollment that year of 1058 pupils. The cost of the building was SI, 000, 000, and the architects were Kirkham and Parlett. Its seating capacity is 1,400. The Technical High School entered its present building H^g^"'''*' on Elliot Street in 1906. The beginnings of the school were in ^°'*°°' 1898, with 18 pupils in a building known as the Mechanic Arts School, on the site of the Hendee Manufacturing Co. The Vocational School on Spring Street was completed in vocational School 1921 with a capacity of 350 pupils. It has class and drawing rooms, and the appliances for teaching such trades as machin- ists, wood working, electricity, automobile repairing, sheet metal working, printing, etc. The American International College at 963 State Street, American " International founded in Lowell in 1885, began its life in Springfield in 1889 College as the French Protestant College. In 1894 the name was changed to the French American College, and in 1905 it took the present name. Its students are chiefly young men and women from other lands. Its teaching emphasizes citizenship and service. The International Young Men's Christian Association international <^ Young Men 8 College was founded in 1885. The present site on the shore of Asaociltron Massasoit Lake was secured in 1891. In addition to the academic course, stress is laid on athletics. Graduates of the college conduct Young Men's Christian Associations, and are physical directors all over the world. The Springfield Boys' Club building, corner Chestnut and Boy"*cfib 184 APPENDIX Ferry streets, was dedicated December 14, 1910. The work of the club is chiefly social and educational in its character. The Young Men's Christian Association was established in Springfield in 1852, the third of its kind in the United States. Its present building was occupied in 1916. The Young Women's Christian Association was organized in 1870. The present building was completed in 1910. The United States Armory which, more than by any other feature within her boundaries, makes Springfield known to the outside world, was established by an act of Congress in April, 1794. It includes not only the enclosures on Armory hill but the shops on Mill River, known as the " Watershops." There is at all times a steady manufacture of firearms and during the successive wars in which the United States has been engaged, the shops have run day and night. The Arsenal has been immortalized through Longfellow's poem "The Arsenal". It was built in 1846 and is modeled after the East India house in London. Little River water system, comprising a watershed of 48 square miles of hills and valleys, with its farthest point about 30 miles from the city, furnishes the water supply for Spring- field. Six different storage units furnish a capacity of almost three billion gallons sufficient for a population of nearly 300,000 people. The system was installed in 1910. The Ludlow reservoir supplied the water from 1875 to this date. Earlier than this the supply was furnished through the enterprise of private individuals, one of whom, Charles Stearns, the donor of Stearns Park, laid eight miles of log pipes through various streets. Forest Park had its beginning in 1884 when a tract of 65 acres was presented to the city by O. H. Greenlcaf. Numerous APPENDIX 185 small gifts with 178 acres from E. H. Barney, 21 acres from R. C. Born and 103 acres from Jas. B. Burbank together with a few purchases have augmented the park until it now (1920) contains 729 acres. In the park Porter Lake of about 40 acres has been constructed, utilizing a bequest from Sherman D. Porter. Springfield's park system also includes Van Horn park of 83 acres, ten other parks of from one to seven acres and 46 other plots of less than one acre each. Connected with the park administration are three large playgrounds embracing 17 acres, the gift of Nathan D. Bill, 14 others (school grounds) used as summer playgrounds, two swimming pools and six social centers during the winter. NOTED WORKS OF ART IN SPRINGFIELD Linden Hall, 284 State Street, is a fine example of past pj^cT""^^' colonial architecture. It was built in 1811 by Asher Benjamin, a noted architect of the time, for Col. James Byers for whom Byers Street was named. It was for a short time the residence of Chester Harding, a portrait painter of national reputation whose work is represented in this city by portraits on the walls of the City Library. Linden Hall, named from the linden trees near it, is often called the "Alexander place", from a prominent Springfield family which has occupied it for many years. The Church of Unitv on State Street, opposite the library, hh. mch- ' ' -^ ardson is a fine example of the work of H. H. Richardson. Other }'J^parge buildings in this city designed by him are the North Church, '^'^*°^' and the Hami:)den County court house. The Church of the Unity contains stained glass windows by Low, LaFarge, Tiffany and others. The municiiKil group is i)r()l)ably S])ringfield's most dis- K.-oup'"''*' 186 APPENDIX tinctive feature. Leading architects competed for the design and Pell and Corbett were chosen. It was completed in 1913 at a cost of nearly two millions of dollars. The auditorium seats 4,000 people, and because of its remarkable acoustic properties attracts the best musical talent in the country. The administration building contains the chambers of the city government and its various offices. The campanile is 300 feet high, and houses an electrically illuminated clock which can be read two miles away, and a chime of twelve bells. The bronze doors, commemorating historical events, were modeled by Gail Sherman Corbett. The pulpit at Christ Church and the rood screen at Church of the Holy Family were carved by Kirchmayer, a famous wood carver from Oberammergau. In Christ Church chapel is a stained glass window designed by LaFarge. The Puritan, a bronze statue on Merrick Park, was modeled by St. Gaudens in memory of Deacon Samuel Chapin. one of the early settlers of Springfield. The McKinley monument on the north side of the municipal building is the work of PhiHp Martiny. Daniel Thc bronzc tablet bearing a portrait relief of Samuel Chester o i <• t • French Bowlcs, on the Republican building at the corner of Mam Street and Harrison Avenue, is the work of Daniel Chester French. Pauiconoyer j^ Trinity Church is a mural painting "Beside the Still Waters" by Paul Conoyer. The mural painting "Light of Education" in the Central High School was the work of Robert Reid. Robert Reid INDEX A Adams, John 97 Administration Building 182 Agawam 9, 48, 52, 88, 89, Agawam Meadows 15, 25 Agawam River. . .3, 22, 23, 91, 99, 121 Agawams.67, 72, 74, 75, 77, 79, 82, 176 Albany 53, 125 Alexander 61 Alexander Place 185 All Saints' Church 175 American Creed 172 American International College . . .183 Amherst 105, 110, 180 Amherst College 8 Anderson A 158 Anniversary Hymn 166 Apaches 86 Arctic Regions 9 Armenia 164 Armory 12, 13, 15, 18, 98, 109 110, 126, 127, 141, 143, 150, 174, 184 Armory Hill 13, 127, 176, 184 Arsenal 18, 128 Aft Museum 156, 179, 182 Ashconunsuck 91 Aslimun, George 14, 141, 178 Aston, Eugene 157 Aaton collection of Wood Engravings 157 "At Home in Italy" 133 Audubon John J 125 Avon Place 5, 91 B Ball, Francis 30 Bancroft George 179 "Bamett, The" 123 Barney. E. H 185 Barrow, Sam 60 "Bav Path, The". . . .51, 144, 175, 178 Bav'Road 17, 91, 95, 110 Bear Hole 92, 120 Bedcrtha, Blanche 55 Bedortha, Reice 34 Beers, Captain 67, 68 Beers Mountain 68 Belgium 173, 174 Benton Park 11, 110, 177 Berkshire County . .106, 109, 112, 115 Berkshire Hills 32 "Beside the Still Waters" 186 Bianciardi, Elizabeth 133 Bible 22 Bill, Gurdon 159 Bill, Nathan D 185 Bircham's Bend 91 Bissell, Isaac 171 "Bittersweet" 179 "Black Swan" 148 Blanchard, Thomas 119 Blandford 7,8 Bliss, George 158 Bliss, Jedediah 88 Bliss Family 88 Block Brook 91 Bloody Brook 69 Boon, Thomas 163 Bom, R. C 185 Boston 3, 24, 26, 46, 79, 81, 95, 99, 124, 125, 153, 171, 175 Boston harbor 48 "Boston stone" 177 Bowles, Samuel 144, 179, 186 Brainerd, David 60 Brewer, Dr. Chauncey 108 Bridge St 175 Brightwood 16, 178 British army 98 British Province 135 Brookfield 65, 67, 74, 92, 101 Brown, John . . . 136, 138, 140, 142, 177 Brush Hill 11 Bunker Hill 95, 96 Burbank, las. B 185 Burgoync, General 98, 101, 178 Burt, Henry 42 Byers, Col. James 185 Byers St 185 188 INDEX C Calkins, Adelaide A 162 Cambridge 94, 95, 177 Canada 92, 135, 164, 173 Card Factory Pond 5 Carnegie, Andrew 181 "Cataract, The" 148 Catholics 178 "Causeway" 176 Cave Hole 17 Cayuga 3 Central High School, 160, 182, 183, 186 Century Magazine 144 Chaffee, Mrs. C. C 178 Chapin, Samuel 34, 41, 42, 51, 52, 72, 75, 144, 186 Chapin Family 88 Charles, King 29, 115 Charlestown 95 Chestnut St. . 16, 25, 174, 178, 179, 183 Chicago Convention 141 Chicopce 3, 38, 53, 88, 90, 91, 109, 110, 114 Chicopee Bridge 15, 109 Chicopee Falls 91 Chicopee River 12, 91 China 13, 164 Christ Church 15, 186 Chubbuck, Thomas 157 Church, Capt. Benjaman 64, 80, 86 Citv Guards 139 City Hall 133 City Library 125, 157, 181, 185 Civil War 110, 128, 138, 139, 143, 144, 160, 177 Cleaves 157 Cobb, Judge David 106 Colony Militia 171 Columbus, Christopher 160 Concord 96 Congregational Library, Boston .... 49 7, 18, 21, 64, 85, 180 Connecticut 3, 22, 35, 47, 48, 55, 59, 63, 64, 71, 74, 79, 82, 89, 91, 92, 115, 121, 171 Connecticut Indians 74 Connecticut River 7, 9, 12, 25, 84, 176 Connecticut Valley Conn. Valley Historical Society, 58, 180 Connecticut, Seal of 133 Conoyer, Paul 186 Constitution 112, 113, 143 Continental Army 94 Continental Congress 97 Cooley "Haystack Colonel" 112 Cooper, Thomas 32, 34, 42, 46, 51, 65, 66, 75, 76, 78, 176 Corbett, Gail Sherman 186 Cornell St 16 Court house 7, 94, 105, 107, 108 Court Square 10, 32, 44, 53, 57, 148, 175, 177 Court St 177 Crescent Hill 16, 57 Crowfoot Brook 91 Cuba 163 Cypress St 26, 38, 78, 94, 175, 176 D Damon, Isaac 176, 177 Day, Joseph 178 Day, Capt. Luke. . . 106, 107, 109, 111 Day, Sarah 34 Day, Thomas 34 Dav House 119, 178 Deeriield 66, 68, 81, 92 Denton, Daniel 37, 38 Dickens, Charles 124 Dickinson 178 Dorchester, Anthony 35 Douglas, Frederick 144 Dunbar, Battle of 30 Dutch 48 Dwight, President Timothy 120 Dwight St 15, 146, 167 "Eagle, the" 149 East India House 184 East Longmeadow 7, 17, 88 Eastern States Exposition 174 Edwards, Mr 55 Edwards, Gen. Clarence R 174 "Edwards, Grandpa" 139 El Canev 163 Eliot, John 60. 79 Elliot St 174, 183 Elm St 25, 33, 123, 175 Elmer, Rufus 138 Elv 106 Enfield 87 INDEX 189 England 22, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 52, 92, 173, 175, 176 English 3, 22, 67, 71, 84, 86, 87, 92, 99, 115, 126, 163 English money 32 Entry Dingle 91 Essex Institute 46 Falls fight 86 Farrar, Eliza 144 Federal Barracks 109 Federal St 177 Ferry Lane 38, 78, 94, 175, 176 Ferry St 107, 184 Firemen's muster 149 First Church 58, 149, 175, 176, 177, 179 Fitch Farm 17 Five Mile Pond 6, 110 Flagg's Hillock 17 Forest Park . .17, 82, 91, 140, 181, 184 Fort Pleasant Ave 57 Fort St 46, 175 Foster, Col .- 171 Fourth of July 139 Framingham 163 France 110, 173 Franklin, Benjamin 115 FrankHn St 136, 137, 178 French, Daniel Chester 186 French 164, 174 French American College 183 French peddler 93, 125 French Protestant College 183 Fuller, Bertha B 134. 135 Gage, Gen 135 Garden Brook 4, 176 Gardner, Clare 58 Gardner, Pyne & Gardner 182 General Court 46, 49, 57, 132 George the Third 99 Germans 149, 163, 164 Geronimo 86 Gerrish Park 140 Gilbert, John 83, 84, 85, 92 "God's Acre" 175 Goldthwaite, J. H 157 Goose Pond 6 Granby 140 Grant, Gen. U. S 142, 143 Gray's Avenue 178 Great Glacier 9, 10 Great River 25 Great Spirit 89 Greece 164 Green, Mason A 75 Green Mountains 12 Greenfield 7 Greenleaf, O. H 184 Greenwood St 178 H Hadley 66. 71, 72, 74, 75, 81, 87 Haile, W. H 179 Hale, James W 93 "Hale Fund " 93 Hall of Records 7, 18 Hampden, John 115 Hampden 88 Hampden County 7, 177 Hampden County Children's Aid Society 162 Hampden County Court House. . . 185 Hampden House 148 Hampden Road 90 Hampshire County 100, 112, 115 Harding, Chester 185 Harrison Ave 186 Hartford H, 47, 48, 51, 60, 72, 74, 82, 93, 124, 125, 180 Hartley, J. S 175 Hartwell & Richardson 182 Hatfield 66 Hayes, Col. Wm. C 173 "Havstack Colonel, The" 112 Hebrews 160, 163 Hendee Mfg. Co 183 Hesse Cassel 99 Hessians 99, 178 High School 5, 162, 182 " 2d 182 " 3d 182 " 4th 182 High School of Commerce 185 High School Portfolio 154 High St 178 Higher Brook 91 "Hillcrs" 127 Hinsdale. .■ 83 Hitchcock, Nathaniel 88 190 INDEX Hogpen Dingle 90 Holland, Josiah Gilbert 51, 144, 175, 178 Holy Family, Church of the 186 Holyoke, Elizur 51, 85 Holvoke, Capt. Samuel. 51, 84, 86, 125 Holyoke 7, 85, 88 Holyoke City Hall 12, 53 Holyoke, Mt 9, 18 Homestead, The 153 Hope, Mt 64 Horse Guards 139 Hospital Drive 173 Howard 158 Howard, Bezaleel "Parson" 120 Howard, Catherine L 182 Howard School 182 Howard St 136, 179 Hudson River 46, 79, 86 Hudson Valley 84 Hungary 164 I Indian Orchard .... 11, 79, 91, 98, 181 Indians. .3, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 32, 46, 47, 48, 67, 75, 76, 78, 79, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 89, 91, 92, 131, 150, 175, 177, 178 International Y.M.C.A. College. . .183 Irish 163, 164 Irving, Washington 94 Island Pond 6 Italian 163 Italy 133, 164, 173 "Italy, At Home in" 133 J Judd, Sylvester 53 K Kansas 138 "Kathrina" 178 Keep, John 82 Kirchmayer 186 Kirkham & Parlett 183 Knights of Columbus Drive 173 Knights Templar 139 KoUabaugamitt 76 Kossuth, Louis 125 L Labrador 10 LaFarge 185, 186 Lancton, George 55 Lathrop, Captain 67, 68 Lee, General 94 Leonard, Clara T 161, 162 Leonards 64 "Letters to Young People" 144 Leverett, Governor John 81 Lexington 95, 171 "Liberty Bond Drive" 173 "Library Drive" 173 Light Infantry 139 "Light of Education" 186 Lincoln, Abraham 140, 141, 142, 143, 172 Lincoln, Gen. . . 108, 109, 110, 111, 118 Lind, Jennv 179 Linden Hall 185 "Lion, The" 148 Little River Water System 184 Locust St 11 "Log Path, The" 91 Long Dingle 91 Long Hill, 16, 38, 52, 60, 72, 74, 77, 160 Long Hill Fort 73, 74 Long Hill St 22, 176 Long Island 53 Longfellow, Henry W 31, 34, 184 Longmeadow 3, 13. 15, 23, 38, 82, 88, 91, 109, 121 Longmeadow Gate 88 "Looking Glass, The" for 1787. ... 104 Loon Pond 6 Low, Will H 185 Ludlow 88, 89, 91, 106 Ludlow Reserv^oir 184 Lyman St 178 M MacDonald, Henry 163 McKinlcy monument 186 Magazine St 109 Miiin vSt 4, 25, 37, 46, 48, 65, 94, 105, 107, 108, 109, 136, 138, 143, 148, 153, 162, 175, 176, 178, 186 Maine 86 Mallamaug 76 Mallefield, John 92, 93 Manchonis Mountains 89 Mai)le Ave 13 Maple St 16, 25, 78 INDEX 191 Market St 147, 177 Martiny, Philip 186 "Mary Bump" 28 Maryland 135 Mason, Captain John 47 Mason, Primus P 161 Masonic 177 Massachusetts 3, 32, 45, 48, 54, 63, 64, 87, 88, 103, 105, 132, 138, 162 Massachusetts Bay 59 Alassacksick 3, 23, 24 Massasoit 59, 61, 63, 86 Massasoit Lake 183 Matthew, Father Theobold 126 Matthews, John 33 Matthews, Pentecost 78 Mattoon, General 105 Mattoon St 179 Mechanics Arts School 183 Meetinghouse Lane (Elm St.) 176 Memorial Square 181 Menedgonuk 3, 91 Mercier, Cardinal 174 "Meritorious Price of Our Redemption, The" 48 Merriam, Ellen B 162 Merriam, G. & C 180 Merrick 15 Merrick Park 144, 186 Metacomet 61, 63 Middletown . . •. 11 Mill River. . .4, 10, 23, 25, 26, 38, 45, 48, 51, 54, 55, 77, 78, 89, 90, 146, 184 Mill St 176, 178 Miller, Capt 89 Miller, Constable Thomas 75, 76,77, 176 Miller's River 84 Missouri Compromise 178 Mitrincague 3, 91 Mohegan Indians 59, 63 Monson 7 Morgan, Miles 27, 34, 37, 175 Morris, Henry 158, 165 Morris, Oliver B 158, 164 Moseley, Capt 79 Mount Vernon 112 Moxon, Rev. George 50, ()2 Mulberry St 140, 142, 148, 17S Municipal Group 185 Museum of Natural History 182 Museum of N. E. Antiquities 17S Muttaump 68 N Narragansetts 59 Nashaways 68 National Army 138 Nayasset 3, 23, 24 Necessity Hill 17 Neck, The 96 New England 3, 26, 32, 35, 82, 86, 92, 120, 174 New Hampshire 3, 83, 86, 115 New Haven 180 "New International Dictionary The" 180 N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R 175 "Niagara, The" 148 Nichols, C. A. Co 159 Nipmucks 60, 76 Nonotuck, Mount 120 Nonotucks 67, 68 North America 10 North Branch 6 North Church 185 Northampton 60, 66, 67, 73, 81, 87, 109, 112, 115 Northfield 66, 81, 92 O Oak Grove Cemetery 12, 17 Oakland St 175 Oberammcrgau 186 "Ocean," 149 One-Eyed-John 67, 68 Osgood, Rev. Samuel 29, 136 Owen, Walter T 182 Oxford University 52 P Packard, Arthur 163 Palmer, J 171 Paris 179 Parks, Gen 109 Parsons, Eli 106, 109, 110 Parsons, Hugh 54, 55, 57 Parsons Tavern 177 Pasc(j Road 11 T'aucatuck 9, 91, 100 Paucatuck Brook 92 Peabody, Rev. Wm. B. 3S, 125 Peabody Cemetery 13, 17."), 179 192 INDEX Pecowsic 3, 82 Pelham 106, 109, 111, 177 Pell and Corbett 185 Pequot Tribe 59 Pequot War 47, 63, 74, 82 Philadelphia 97 Philip, King 61, 63, 66, 68, 72, 74, 77, 79, 80, 85, 86 87, 92, 176 Phips' Farm 171 Pilgrims 60 Pine St ..93, 175 Pleasant St 10, 44 Plymouth 59,63, 79 Plymouth Colony 60, 64 Plymouth Rock 60 Pocumtucks 68 "Poets and Poetry of Springfield", 111 Poland 164 Poor Brook , 91 Porter, Sherman D 185 Porter Lake 185 Praying Indians 60 Pringridays, Edmund 78 Probate Court 93 Prophet's Chamber 136 Provin Mountain 9 "Puritan, The" 186 Putts Bridge 150 Pynchon, John 21, 22, 45, 51, 52, 53, 54, 57, 58, 67, 71, 72, 74, 75, 79, 81, 82, 84, 92, 96, 125, 132, 135, 175 Pynchon, Mary 21, 22, 45, 51, 84, 125, 144 Pynchon, William 21, 23, 24, 28, 30, 31, 34, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 52, 54, 61, 76, 96, 145, 160, 175 R Ramapogue 91 Ramapogue Hist. Soc 178 Red Cross Drive 173 Reid, Robert 186 Reippumsick 76 Renwick, Aspinwall & Renwick . . . 182 Republican Convention 178 Revolution 89, 93, 96, 98, 103, 105, 106, 107, 112, 115, 116, 139, 140, 143, 146, 177 Rhode Island 59, 64 Rhode Islanders 96 Rice, Caleb 133 Rice, Elizabeth 133 Rice, Wm 18 Richardson, H. H 185 Riedesel, General 98, 99 Riley, John 34, 88 Round Hill 4, 17, 23, 25, 146, 163 Rowlandson, Mrs. Mary 83 Roxbury 21, 96 Russia 179 Saco River 61 Sagamore Sam 67, 68 Sagamores 60 St. Gaudens, Augustus. . .144, 179, 186 St. James Ave 90 St. James Ave. Bridge 4 St. Michael's Cathedral 149 St. Vincent de Paul, Society of . . . . 162 St. Vincent's Home 176 Salem 46 Sanderson, Juduthan 96 Sanford St 105 Santiago 163 Saratoga 98 Schonunganuck 91, 120 School St 127, 140, 178 Schurz, Carl 144 Science Museum 182 Scituate 61 Scot, Dred 178 Second Regiment 162 Seth 100 Shays' Rebellion 103, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 177, 178 Shepard, Gen. Wm.. 107, 108, 109, 110 Shiawassee 3 Sikes, Richard 42 "Silver Stream" 91 Simsljurv 82 vSixteen Acres 6, 90, 110 vSixteen Acres Mill Pond 6 Skipmaug 91 Skipmuck 91 Skunk's Miserv 90 Smith, David jr 106 Smith, George W. V 179, 182 Smith, Henry 42. 50, 175 Smith, Horace 160, 182 Smith &- Wesson 182 INDEX 193 Smith Farm 17 Sokonokis 61 Soldiers' Monument 159 Somers 109 South Deerfield 11 South Main St 11, 176 Span-shWar 162 Spring St 4, 127, 183 Springfield Bovs' Club 183 Spfld. Fire & Marine Ins. Co 150 Springfield Lake 11 "Springfield Musket" 127 Springfield RepubUcan . . . 178, 179, 186 Springfield Rifle 128 Spruceland Ave 176 Squakheags 68 Squando 61 Squaw Tree 90 Squaw Tree Dingle 91 State Arsenal 162 State St 5, 78, 91, 95, 110, 131, 146, 147, 177, 183, 185 Stearns, Charles 184 Stearns Park 184 Stebbins, Goodv 57 Stewart, John. ' 30, 31, 34, 43, 114 "Street" 127 "Streeters" 127 Suffield 11, 87, 121 Sugarloaf, Mt 11, 68 Sumner, Charles 138 Sumner, Fort 141 Sunderland 11 Swamp Fight 86 Swan Pond 6 Sweden 1 64 Swink, Peter 34, 161 Tatham (Tattum) 9, 91 Taylor, Jonathan 57 Taunton 106 Technieal High School 174, 183 Thompson's Dingle 91 Three Mile Brook 75 Ticonderoga 98, 100 Tiffany Co 185 "Tiger, The" 148 Tilton, Edw. 1 181 Titan's Piazza 9 Titan's Pier 9 Toll Bridge 177 Tom, Little 9 Tom, Mt 9, 18, 22, 58, 121 Toto 60. 74, 79 Town Brook 4, 176 Training Day 140 Treat, Major Robert 68, 79 Triangle Drive 173 Trinity Church 186 Trumbull, Judah 65 Turner, Capt 84, 85 Turner's Falls 84 Two Mile Pond 6 U Uncas 63 "Underground Railroad" 135, 178 Union, Springfield 140, 141 Union St 13, 126, 142, 148 United States Army 4 United States Arsenal 133, 184 Unitv, Church of the 185 Usc}uaiok 23, 24, 89 Y Van Horn Park 185 Venturer's Pond 6 Vermont .■ ■ ■ 3, 115 Vermont, Seal of 133 Victory Drive 173 Village Blacksmith 31 Vincentian Fathers 73 Virginia 138, 140 Vocational School 183 W Wachogue 90 Wachuet 90 Wachuet, Great 90 Wachuet, Little 90 Wait, Joseph 177 Wales 34 Wallamanumps 3 Walnut vSt 13, 127 Wampanoags 5i), 63, SO Wamsutta 61 War Chest Drive 173 Ware, Edith M 133 Warrincr, Jeremy 179 194 INDEX Washington, George 94, 95, 98 112, 126, 143 Watershops 4, 90, 127. 143, 150, 174, 184 Watershops Pond 4 Webster, Daniel 140, 143, 17S Webster, Noah 180 Webster's Dictionary 157, 180 Wequogan *)0 Wesson, Daniel B 160, 161 Wesson Hospital 5, 91 West Indies 79 West Springfield 9, 35, 53, 58, 75. 79, 88, 101, 106, 115, 133. 174, 178 West Springfield Common 91, 101, 109, 178 Westfield 3, 9, 24, 67, 87, 88, 92, 99, 108 Whistler, James, (Major) .... 125, 179 Whistler, Jas. McNeil 179 White Mountains 11, 12 Whitnev, Dr 109 Wigwam Hill 89 Wilbraham 88, 89, 109 Wilbraham Hill 72 Wilbraham Mountains 4 Will)raham Road 6 Williams, Roger 59 Willard, Justice 124 Willow St 126 Winchester Square 6, 12 Windsor 47, 48, 75 Windsor Indian 78 Winter Hill 96 Worcester 115, 123 Worcester County 60, 106, 112 World War Roll of Honor 174 World's End 90 Woronoco 176 Worthington, Colonel John. . . .97, 120 Worthington St 4, 176 Worthy 101 Y Yale College 120 Yankee Division 174 York St 4, 26, 176 Y. M. C. A 183, 184 Young Men's Institute 181 Y. W. C. A .184 A\i L A^a^