SIDE TRIPS I JAMAICA. IIjIjU RATE., Class _X-i 12 i- fiook '^g Copyright )J° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/sidetripsinjamaiOObrad SIDE TRIPS I N J A M A I C A By MARY F. BRADFORD ^^^:^m:MBf^mmm^^^M^^m^^^ ^^^^ 9^^mmmmm ^^Mjy-^^ :.:mi^ ILLUSTRATED THIRD EDITION ,,,,,. ...,., ^ ' 'j 3 ^ ^ / "" j' ^ I ^ ] ^ D D ^ 3 3 ^ :> 3 BOSTON AND NEWYORK SHERWOOD PUBLISHING COMPANY 1902 COPY 8 Copyright, igoo By Sherwood Publishing Company 140 Nassau Street, New York, N.Y. Tkemont Temple, Boston, Mass. A II rights reserved TWENTIETH THOUSAND • • • c a c e fiEO. H. ELLIS CO., PRINTERS; 272 CONGRESS ST., BOSION. "^ % "0 r / ^ 'T^HIS little book is intended to supply the need of a practical guide for tourists contemplating a visit to the island of Jamaica. It contains a variety of trips arranged both for those having limited as well as unlimited time. The book opens with brief but comprehensive sketches of Jamaica, "the Princess of the Antilles,"' including the early and more recent history, physical features of the island, agriculture, government, prin- cipal cities and towns, with their location and special points of interest. The itineraries follow. Tour I. is arranged for those who have but nine days to spend on the island, the usual time in staying over one steamer. Tours II., III., IV., V., VI., and VII. are arranged for tourists having comparatively unlimited time or may be combined with a portion of Tour I. In condensed form complete and accurate information is given regarding points of interest, hotels, trains, distances, and necessary expenses, — the result of experience gained by personal tours of the island, — and the tourist may feel perfect confidence in following the suggestions offered. No attempt has been made to give elaborate descriptions of peoples or places, but merely to introduce the tourist to the prin- cipal points of interest, how to reach them, and the cost of the different trips. This third edition (1902) is revised to date. £ o c n t e n PAGE Practical Hints 9-21 Historical Introduction , 23-27 Physical Features of the Island 29-37 Mandeville, Carriage Drives 38 Port Antonio, Carriage Drives and Saddle Rides 38 Kingston, Carriage Drives and Saddle Rides . 39, 40 Tour I., from Port Antonio to Kingston 41-53 Tour II., from Port Antonio 55-':7 Tour III., from Port Antonio to Kingston 58-63 Tour IV., From Port Antonio or Kingston or Ocho Rios 64 Tour V., from Kingston to Kingston 65-75 Tour VI., from Kingston -jy Tour VII., from Kingston to Port Antonio 78-S2 Bell Time ON Shipboard . . . 83 Rates FOR Buggies 84 Railroad Time Tables 85-87 Hotels and Lodgings in the Island 88-91 -Cabin Plans of "Admiral" Steamers United Fruit Company, follows p. 82 Large Map of Jamaica cover insert CO Practical Hints. \ TRIP to a foreign country, especially to the Island of Jamaica, "^^makes suggestions valuable and they can most properly be given in this portion of the book. How TO Go. — ■ There are several lines of steamers that visit Jamaica. The United Fruit Company make sailings as follows : — Twin-screw U.S. mail steamship, "Admiral Dewey," twin-screw U.S. mail steamship -'Admiral Farragut," sail from Long Wharf, foot of State Street, Boston, Wednesdays, at lo a.m.; twin-screw U.S. mail steamship " Admiral Sampson," twin-screw U.S. mail steamship " Admiral Schley," sail from Pier 5, North Wharves, Philadelphia, Thursdays, at 9 a.m., to Port Antonio, Jamaica, with railroad connections to Kingston. The ships are excellent, and will compare favorably with European steamers, both in build, speed, accommodations, and cuisine. Fresh fruit and vegetables and the best of American cooking are to be had on the steamers. Representatives of the United Fruit Company may be found at the following ports : St. Ann's Bay, Ora Cabessa Bay, Port Maria, Annotto Bay, Buff Bay, Orange Bay, Hope Bay, St. Margaret's Bay, Port Antonio (headquarters), Manchioneal, Port Morant, Morant Bay, Kingston. Location. — The Island of Jamaica is the largest and most valu- able of the British West Indies in the Carribean Sea, 90 miles south of Cuba, North latitude 17° 43'-i8° 32', and 76° 11^-78° 21' West longitude. Distances. — Boston to Port Antonio, Jamaica, 1,600 miles; Boston to Port Morant, Jamaica, 1,650 miles. Time of Passage to Jamaica. — Four to four and one-half days is the average from these sailing points. Expense of the Trip. — The expense of a trip to Jamaica de- 9 . S c TS CJ CU ■^ J" ^ "u, JJ jS ri •'-' H ° ■V HiiiWu pends on the length of stay in the island. Fare from Boston, New York, or Philadelphia to Port Antonio, $40; round trip, ^75, including meals and state-room. On arrival at the island, good hotel accommodations can be secured at Hotel Titchfield, Port An- tonio, from $24. per week upward. Mail and Cable Address. — Persons visiting the island should have all mail and cables addressed Care United Fruit Company, Port Antonio, Jamaica. Mail can be forwarded from this address to parties touring through the island. The cost of postage is 5 cents per half-ounce for letters, and i cent for two ounces for papers. The expense of cabling is 48 cents per word. Cable addresses : Boston, " Banana " ; New York, " Banana " ; Philadelphia, *' Banana " ; Bal- timore, " Banana " ; " Baker," Port Antonio. Letters are received five days from date of sailing from Boston, and four days from New York and Philadelphia. The time required for unloading a steamer usually allows for a reply to letters on the return trip of the same steamer. When to Visit Jamaica. — The best months to go to Jamaica are between December i and May i, although many tourists visit the island during the summer. The even temperature and the cool sea breezes make Jamaica a summer resort as well as a winter one. Teachers and others who have a summer vacation are finding the voyage to this island one of the most delightful yachting trips im- aginable. In summer the weather is almost sure to be perfect, the sea smooth ; and already it is b^^coming well known for summer outings. Money Values. — The relative value between our own and the money of the island is about two to one in favor of the Enghsh coin. An English penny is worth 2 cents, a shilling is 25 cents, and an English pound figures $4.83 with exchange. Charges at Jamaica. — The following charges are made tourists in connection with coast-wise service after arrival at Jamaica : — Passengers holding return tickets and remaining on board steamers after arrival at Jamaica will be charged $2.50 per day while ship remains in local waters. Tourists holding return tickets and remaining at the hotel will be charged ^4.80 per day. Passengers holding tickets reading from Port Antonio to Boston are exempt from above charges only in the event of ship sailing from Port Antonio to Boston via Kingston or Port Morant, etc., thereby neces- sitating their coming aboard at Port Antonio previous to ship's arrival at outports. Passengers holding tickets reading from Kingston to Boston and return are also exempt from local charges from Port Antonio to Kingston, when making continuous trip from Boston to Kingston via Port Antonio and (or) Port Morant. Money and Exchange. — For the convenience of passengers, drafts on the Jamaica Division of the United Fruit Company can be obtained at the office of the company when leaving Boston, New York, or Philadelphia; and returning Jamaica passengers can purchase drafts on the home Division, thus saving the annoyance of the per- sonal care of money en route, as well as the trouble of exchanging United States currency for sterling and vice versa. Passengers' Baggage. — Passengers' baggage can be sent to the pier a few days in advance, and will be kept in the baggage-room there at the owner's risk until claimed. All baggage must be marked plainly with the name of the passenger and steamer. Cabin passengers are allowed 150 pounds of baggage free. Baggage in excess of this allowance will be charged for at freight rates ; but neither merchandise, specie, bullion, valuables, wines, nor stores, will be carried as baggage. Tags and labels can be obtained from the company's agents and at the pier. Bicycles. — If crated, bicycles will be carried at owner's risk, free. Articles wanted during Voyage. — Articles wanted during voyage should be put in a vaUse or steamer trunk : the latter must not exceed thirteen inches in height, to enable it to be placed under the berth or the sofas in the state-room. No baggage will be put aboard 13 Twelve O'clock. ship until checked by passenger, steamer trunks and small packages for state-room use excepted ; and these should be plainly marked by cabin label. Dogs and Birds. — Dogs and birds will be charged for at the rate of ^5 each dog and $2 each bird. Dogs and birds not allowed in cabin. Steamer Chairs. — Steamer chairs can be rented upon application to the purser. Rental is $1 for each chair for the trip. Clothing. — One of the most important things is very warm cloth- ing for the first two days at sea. Heavy overcoats are needed at first, but, as the steamer goes south, are soon discarded. Golf capes are invaluable for ladies. Heavy steamer rugs are indispensable for com- fort at sea. On arriving at the island, the lightest gauze clothing should be worn. Usual summer attire is in order ; but, owing to the very cool nights and mornings, light wraps are needful for driving. Lightest wool under garments are very desirable, and have the advantage of safety, preventing a chill after the profuse perspiration incident to exercise in the tropics. An ample supply of underwear is a necessity. One or two light- weight wool skirts with foulard, cotton, linen, and lawn shirt waists^ and one light wool or silk dress for evening wear at hotels, will be sufficient for an extended visit. Rubbers, waterproofs, and umbrellas are indispensable ; but a heavy mackintosh is too warm. One's summer wardrobe of the previous year, of muslins and ginghams, will answer all purposes. A soft felt travelling hat is very good for driving, and an ordinary sailor hat will be suitable for other occasions. Ippi-appi hats (Pan- amas) are made on the island, and may be bought for from 4 to 2a shillings, according to fineness of weave. The atmosphere is fatal to colored kid gloves, spotting them badly. Silk or chamois are preferable. 15 pq If there is room in the trunk, sUp in a simple decollete evening gown. The Jamaica ladies wear such dresses a great deal ; and one is almost a necessity, in case of an unexpected invitation to a dance or dinner. Gentlemen will find their summer suits, neglige shirts, and ducks useful; and it is well to carry a dinner coat, especially if the stay is to be prolonged. Connected with the hotel at Port Antonio is an excellent laundry, but in other parts of the Island one's washing is always problemati- cal. In some places the women wash in the rivers, using rocks as scrubbing-boards. It is not feasible to carry a trunk on any of the driving trips ; and, consequently, suit-cases, light-weight valises, or other luggage that may be placed on the trap, are necessary. A " hold-all " is most convenient for carrying about clothing, etc. Linens, piques, and certain muslin and cotton goods may be bought and made up in Kingston and Port Antonio at reasonable prices ; and oftentimes in the shops in the smaller towns, like Browns Town and St. Ann's Bay, there is quite a good variety to select from. The shops recommend reliable dressmakers and tailors. Gentlemen can have made up very satisfactory suits of linen or khaki. Length of Trip. — The question of what to see depends on the time and proposed expense of the trip. In the briefest possible visit one stays over a single steamer, and, being absent nineteen days, has nine days on the island, ten being consumed in travel, five days being the usual allowance each way. Hotels. — The hotels of the island are good, especially the new Titchfield at Port Antonio, the Myrtle Bank at Kingston and the Constant Spring, about four miles out froni' that city. The other cities and towns have unusually good and attractive accommodations. English. — The language of the island is English, our mother tongue ; and, as a result, there is the greatest ease in adapting one's 17 self to environment, the cockney " h " adding quaintness to the lan- guage of the natives. The food is excellent, the native cooking being an interesting feature of the smaller towns. Their honesty and integ- rity together with the unfaiHng courtesy of the natives, combined with the restfulness of the atmosphere and its luxurious warmth, make travelhng in the island a joy from beginning to end. Dutiable Goods. — As Jamaica is an English port, all baggage is subject to inspection by foreign officials. Personal baggage is exempt from duty, and the officials are courteous and considerate. A reasonable amount of tobacco and hquor is allowed to be taken home, free of duty " for personal use," particulars of which are posted on the ships of the company. Souvenirs. — The quaintness of the environment makes souvenir collecting a most agreeable duty. The ippi-appi baskets are to be had in the shops or by the roadside for threepence up, according to size, those for a shilling being large enough to bring home a good deal. They are strong, light, and most serviceable. The opportunity to make purchases in the shops is most unusual, hnens. Madrases, silk and lisle stockings, etc., being much cheaper than at home. At the " Self-help " shop in Kingston, and in all the hotels, there are sou- venirs to be had at different prices and varying degrees of usefulness and value. The coolie bangles and brass pots are favorites to bring home; while nearly every one desires a "machete," the large cutlass used by the natives as a tool for every conceivable purpose. Ippi- appi hats (Panamas) are always acceptable presents. Snap-shots. — One of the especial delights of a Jamaican trip are the numberless pictures, each quaintly unique, that may be taken on the road. The light is so bright that on a cloudy day a short-time snap only is necessary, the danger to avoid being over-exposure. Amateur pictures are almost sure to be successful. A supply of plates and films should be taken. Developing is well done at the photographic shops in Kingston, notably Duprey's on King Street. Films should be developed before leaving the island, as they are very 19 ?*^ii1 Fan Pah likely to "go bad," owing to the climate and the sea trip, unless care- fully sealed in tin. Fine photographs are for sale at principal points throughout the island at i shilling up. Carriage Drives. — Much of the island must be seen by carriages, as the railroad merely connects the larger cities and runs across the island. The roads are perfectly maintained, finely macadamized ; and either driving or riding is a joy. The best hours are before noon and after four in the afternoon. Easy-riding mountain wagons seat four to six; and the expense is about ^3 each or less for a drive, the price varying with the length of time required. One may glean much information from an intelligent driver ; and they are all wiUing and anxious to tell foreigners about the points of interest, vegetation, and habits and customs of the people. Fees. — Be sure to carry a plentiful supply of small change for fees on the island, 'bus hire, and car-fares. A fee should never exceed i shilHng (25 cents) for services rendered, and sixpence (12 cents) is more usual. Oftentimes three- pence (6 cents) will answer the purpose. Railway Trains. — There are approximately two trains per day each way from various principal points. Time tables are to be had at hotel offices. The usual railway charges are about 4 cents per mile first class and 2 cents per mile third class. The schedule of railway trains and 'bus charges is given on pages 84-87. - ././'r^^^-V-^i; >._-«:fe^.€iSS?-l%/^'ih-'*^iil /. Historical Introduction ^ I ''HE Early History of Jamaica is intertwined with the history of Cohimbus on his voyages. The island was discovered by that ad- venturer on May 3, 1494, while sailing south from Cuba. Two days later he anchored off what is now known as Port Maria on the north- ern coast of Jamaica. Columbus named it Santa Gloria on account of the beauties of the harbor. Later he sailed to Ora Cabessa, land- ing amid some opposition from the Indians, although they were soon subdued. The discoverer named the island Santiago, though it still retains its Indian name, Xaymaca, now called Jamaica. Later the voyage was continued to Montego Bay and Morant Point, which ended the first vis'it of Columbus to the island. On May 9, 1502, he started on his fourth voyage with a fleet of four ships and one hundred and fifty men. On June 23, 1503, he made Dry Harbor, and on June 24 put into Don Christopher's Cove, in a desperate condition, his vessels bored full of holes, and with a disheartened and mutinous crew. The ships were grounded, being run ashore as the only alternative. Columbus stayed on his ships for more than a year, awaiting the arrival of relief from Spain, de- pending for food on the generosity of the natives and the pillaging journeys of his crews. At length aid arrived ; and Columbus set sail for Spain June 28, 1504, and died heart-broken and in poverty at Seville, May 20, 1506, never knowing that he had discovered a new continent. The Later History of the island has been one of almost con- tinuous progress, beginning with the conquest of the Spanish invaders by the English. The first capital of the island, Sevilla Nueva, was founded by Diego Columbus, the son of the discoverer, and is now marked by only a few stones on the estate of Seville, near St. Ann's Bay. Later Spanish Town was established as the capital of the island, then called St. Jago de la Vega. The English conquest 23 dates back to the attacks of Sir Anthony Shirley in 1590 and of Colonel Jackson in 1635, ^^^h retiring after extorting ransom. In 1654 a fine fleet left England for the express purpose of conquering the island, under command of Colonel Venables and Admiral Penn, the father of William Penn. St. Jago was taken in May, 1635. Golden Vale Plantation. The last remnant of the Spaniards was at length driven from the island ; but a number of fierce and warlike slaves of mixed African and Indian blood took to the mountains, and successfully defied conquest. These people are still known as the Maroons, and their descendants now live at Mooretown. The Next Chapter of Jamaica's history is the record of her pirate chiefs, who preyed upon Spanish shipping and founded Port Royal as the headquarters of their ill-gotten gains. The city is said to have been the richest and the most licentious in modern history. On the 17th of June, 1692, a great earthquake shook the island, and in two minutes destroyed the city, transforming the richest spot on earth to the poorest. This was looked upon as the direct judgment of the Almighty upon this most wicked city. Pestilence 24 followed the earthquake floods, and those who survived the one died from the other. The overthrow of Port Royal led to the establishment of Kingston on the Liguanea Plain. The enmity be- tween France and England was reproduced in the island, where the French burned plantations, and took away slaves to the value of $325,000. This culminated years later, at the time of the American War for Independence, the recognition of that country by France causing martial law to be proclaimed on the island. Admiral Rod- ney, Jamaica's beloved hero, won a great victory over the French admiral, De Grasse, saving the island at a most critical period. Rodney's statute, by John Bacon, is located in the pubhc square at Spanish Town. The Emancipation Act of the imperial government was epoch- making in its far-reaching effects. It provided that "from and after the I St of August, 1834, all slaves in the colonial possessions of Great Britain should be forever free, with an intermediate state of four and six years." Although ;^5, §53,975 sterling was awarded as compensation, it went mostly to pay creditors ; and the condition of the sugar-planters was most pitiful. They were left without re- sources, a scarcity of labor, and a poor market. The adoption of a free-trade policy a few years thereafter reduced the price of sugar one-half and made the profits correspondingly less. As a result, many estates were abandoned, and are to-day in a state of decay. The Government of the island from the first has been administered by the home country through a governor. The first assembly dates back to the time of Charles II. Members were returned from twelve districts, and met at Spanish Town.^ The colonial history of Jamaica is one of constant wrangling, the constitution being repealed and restored from time to time. The uprisings of the slaves caused mas- sacres of their white masters, among the most horrible in all history. By an order of the Queen in council. May 19, 1884, a new constitu- tion was granted the island, in which it was declared that the legis- lative council of the island should consist of the Governor, the Senior Military Officer, -the Colonial Secretary, the Attorney-general, and the Director of Public Works ; not more than five members nomi- nated by the crown, and nine members elected by tax-payers of twenty shillings and upwards. There are nine electoral districts, and a member was appointed from each. The governor is president of the legislative council. There is a Privy Council of not exceed- ing eight persons appointed by the King, also a Parochial Board in each parish which manages its affairs. 27 Physical Features : The Island and its People. 'HE Political Divisions of the island are three counties and fourteen parishes, namely: — Middlesex County. Parishes. St. Catherine. St. Mary. Clarendon. St. Ann. Manchester. Surrey County. Parishes. Kingston. St. Andrew. St. Thomas. Portland. Cornwall County. Parishes. St. Elizabeth. Trelawney. St. James. Hanover. Westmoreland. The Area of the Island is 4,207 square miles, the extreme length being 144 miles, and the width varying from 20 to 50 miles. The 500 miles of coast line give many beautiful and safe harbors for commerce. The highest mountains are the Blue Mountains, the highest peak being 7,360 feet above sea level. The Physical Features of the island make Jamaica essentially an agricultural country. Banana, cocoanut, orange, grape fruit, and pine growing are carried on most profitably. Sugar was the powerful interest previous to the freeing of the slaves. Rum is manufactured extensively, and unrefined sugar is made in small quanti- ties. Coffee is grown in large quantities, the Blue Mountain being the choicest product, a large share of this coffee being shipped to Delmonico's in New York. Pimento, logwood, and lime culture are among the principal industries. One may often see a collection of fruits and v^egetables of the island, including bananas, yams, both white and yellow, sweet potatoes, cocoa, ackie, sour sop, pome- granate, pumpkin, pineapple, garden egg, cho cho, star apples, and bread fruit. The coffee and fruit industries have increased enor- omusly under the patronage of foreign companies, the increased shipping facilities and the opening up of the railroad naturally result- ing in an era of marked prosperity. 29 h The agricultural work of the island is done with a cutlass called a. " machete," which, tradition has it, is manufactured in America. These machetes are their only tool, and the natives carry them at all times. Naturally, the tourist is surprised and sometimes alarmed at the warHke appearance of the inhabitants ; but the presence of the machete in no way makes against safety, as its murderous use is- practically unknown in the island. It is used for preparing food, cutting out underbrush, cutting bananas, cultivating the crops, and every conceivable purpose to which tools are put in other countries. They make interesting curios, and may be bought for i shilling six- pence or 2 shillings in the evening after the day's work is over :. otherwise the man loses a day's work. The Flora of the Island. — One of the most delightful features of a trip to Jamaica is the wild luxuriance of its tropical foliage. It is said that there is growing in the government Botan- ical Garden at Castleton everything representative of the tropics in every part of the world. One may, therefore, in this island see tropi- cal foliage at its best. There are known to be two hundred and eighty varieties of lace ferns, of which two hundred and twenty-eight have been found in the island. There are seventy different varieties of Crotons, while oleanders, begonias, oxalis, and numberless varieties of cultivated ferns and plants grow here by the roadside in the rankest profusion. The brillancy of the fohage is most noticeable, scarlet being the predominating color. The hibiscus grows single and double, in pink, cream, cerise, and scarlet coloring : it is called by the natives " shoe-black," and is used to polish shoes. The poinsettia is a brilliant red and very abundant. The Caladii grow in great variety and luxuriance. The long ferns and broad palms are every- where ; while the fan palm, the cabbage palm, royal palm, and cocoanut palm become dear to the heart of every traveller. There are rare specimens of flora to be- found in the swamps ; but swamp- hunting is a thing that the natives will not do, and it means yellow fever in every instance to the white man. The experiment has beeni tried many times, and the results are invariably the same. 31 O (U o '♦^ o «- The Climate of the Island is wonderfully varied, owing to the very low and very high altitudes to be found within its borders. The fact that in the lowest altitudes one requires a blanket for sleeping indicates cool nights insuring delightful rest. The air is dry ; and an average of 80 degrees during the hot season, with a maximum of 87 degrees, is not nearly so oppressive as the same heat would be in America, owing to the humidity of our atmosphere. The Jamaican of lower altitudes seeks the higher ones for a change, but is apt to suffer from the cold. The constant blowing of the sea breeze dur- ing the day, called by natives " The Doctor," is succeeded at night- time by a breeze from off the hills, producing a delightful tempera- ture at all seasons. Visitors should avoid any violent exertion during the heat of the day, say 11 a.m. till 3 p.m., before and after which tramping and other exercise can be taken with impunity. The remarkable equality of the temperature, both summer and winter, is making Jamaica a summer as well as a winter resort ; and tourists report delightful trips to the island between July and Octo- ber. The rainy season covers the month of May in spring and October in the fall, beginning to rain at the new or full moon, con- tinuing day and night for a fortnight. The rule in the island is to keep under cover after sunset, to avoid the night chill, the darkness shutting down immediately without any twilight, as in the northern hemisphere. No European can stand the mid-day heat, wet clothes, exposure at night, or excessive use of alcoholic stimulants. Let him exercise proper care in these particu- lars, and he will find Jamaica much more healthful than many por- tions of the North, the recuperating effects of a visit being every- where recognized by physicians as marvellous. The Scenery of the Island surpasses description. No one ever visits Jamaica without an ardent desire to return, and the memories of the trip are as enchanting as fairyland. Everywhere surprises await one, the lavishness of Nature's bounty being nowhere more evidenced than in this exquisitely delightful island. 33 The Inhabitants of the Island are nearly all colored, there being few white residents. The original inhabitants were a race of peace-loving Indians of the Arawak tribe, such as still inhabit British Guiana, Cuba, Hayti, Porto Rico, and the Bahamas. The Spaniards promptly exterminated these peaceful people, and were in turn ex- pelled by the EngUsh, at their conquest of the island. The importa- tion of slaves from Africa was begun at an early date, and continued up to March, 1808. The African slaves imported by the Spanish were left by their masters to fight the English ; and their descendants, being a mixture of negro and Indian, proved most warlike in actual combat. These people are to-day known as the Maroons of the Blue Mountains, — an unconquered people with whom the English made treaties, and who proved an able ally in the various negro up- risings. The inability of the English to carry on agricultural pursuits in the cane-growing lowlands led to the importation of more slaves from Africa, a people native to the heat of a tropical sun. The traffic increased with sugar cultivation : and more than half a million slaves were landed in the island during the eighteenth cen- tury, not including those who were re-exported to other countries. The Emancipation Act of British Parliament went into effect Aug. i, 1834. Expediency and the uncertainty of negro labor have caused planters to introduce coolies from India, and 20,000 of them have thus been added to the population. They are an ambitious people, and thoroughly reliable, by whom much of the work of the island is done. The 1 89 1 census in Jamaica showed a total population of more than 700,000, of which there were registered : whites, 14,692 ; colored,, 121,955; black, 488,624; East Indian, 10,116; and 4,104, of which 481 were Chinese, and the others not indicated. The white man in the West Indies is the master, it being out of the question for him to perform field labor • and he must depend upon his intellect for supremacy. 35 The Principal Cities of the Island are Kingston, latitude 13° 11' N., longitude 61° 15' W., the capital, and Port Antonio, the com- mercial centre of the island. There are many smaller towns that enjoy much prosperity. Among these are Spanish Town, the former capital, with its historical interests, Mandeville, in the orange and cofifee growing section, and other towns prominent for their agricultural and shipping location. A full description of the various points of interest is given in the itineraries. The special points of interest of three of the cities of the island are here given : — In Kingston. The special points of interest are : — 1. Parade Grounds; statue of Sir Charles Metcalfe. 2. Shops : Gardener's for books ; Nathan Sherlock & Co., dry goods, etc. 3. The Self-help, for the purchase of souvenirs, 8 Church Street. 4. Theatre Royal. 5. Hospital on North Street. 6. Colonial Bank. 7. Parish Church. 8. Headquarters House. 9. Library and Museum Buildings on East Street. 10. Court-house, Harbour Street. 11. Tourist Agency, Gardener's. 12. Churches. 13. Myrtle Bank Hotel. 14. Victoria and Jubilee Markets. 15. Clubs, yacht clubs, and race course. 16. Rooms of Society of Agriculture and Commerce on Harbour Street. 17. Penitentiary. In Port Antonio. 1. Hotel Titchfield. 2. The Market. 3. Shops. 4. Old Fort. 5. Plant of the United Fruit Company. 6. Churches. 7. Drives to adjoining plantations and shipping ports. 8. Best sea bathing in West Indies. In Spanish Town. 1. Rodney " Temple." 2. The Cathedial; statuary by Bacon; tablets. 3. King's House. 4. Rio Cobre Hotel, native cooking. Carriage Drives and Saddle Rides from P^r/ Antonio. Time required. / r/c^ in a carriage. Destination. Hours. Miles. Enviro7iment. J persotts 3 persons. Blue Hole .... 3 round-trip 6 coast 12S. i6j-. St. Margaret's Bay . 2\ " 4i " 12S. ids. Hope Bay .... 4 10 " ^i £^ S^- Bowden .... 5i 38 coast and interior ;/^ t^ lOS. Swift River to Para- dise 6 round-trip 12 " river valley Burlington 2 " 4 coast 12S. 1 6s. Castleton Gardens from Annotto Bay 6 12 interior /I lOS. Fellowship . . . li " 4 " 8s. I2S. Golden Vale . . . 2i " 5 '< I2S. 1 6 J.. Windsor .... 3^ " 7 (( 14s. £1 Moore town 4 9 (( iSs. £1 4-f. Saddle Rides ; Park Mount . . . 2i - 3i u 1 1^ Shot Over .... 3 3i " 1 Williamsfield . . . Cuna-Cuna Pass to 2 " 3 it 1 fD > 2^. per hour. Bath Springs . 6 25 " 1 < Richmond Hill . I round-trip I '( J i'J Good saddle horses can be procured from several stables in Port Antonio. The rides described as saddle rides are to elevations not accessible by carriage and to points where the view is beautiful beyond description. Drives about Mandeville. To be taken in the early morning or afternoon. To Spur Tree (7 To Fairview (9 To Belretiro (8 To Kendal (6 To Brokenhurst (7 (Coffee Plantation es from Mandeville) and back takes 3 hours. ) " " " 3i " ) " " " 3i " ) " " - 2i " ) " " " 3 " Cost. — Charge for a buggy for 2 persons, loj-. Charge for a buggy for 3 per- sons, \2S. 38 Carriage Drives and Saddle Rides from Kingston. INSPECT Parish Church, Parade Garden, Law Courts, Jamaica Institute (mu- seum and public library), Market, Penitentiary, Up -Park-Camp. Ommhis {^ Buses) for _^ Persons. — Fare from one place to another within the limits of the city, 6d. each. Special arrangements should be made for distances beyond. Omnibuses can be hired in Kingston at y. per hour. Carriages for j> Perso7ts. — Double buggies can be hired in Kingston at 20s. per day. Excursions by Electric Cars, from kingston to constant spring and hope gardens. The cars start from the bottom of King Street about every half an hour. 7 tickets are sold for \s. To the Constant Spring Hotel (6 miles from Kingston), take car with red signs and lights. Fare from Kingston to Constant Spring and back, each way, 2 tickets, ^d. in money. Special cars can also be had for private parties. To the Hope Botanic Gardens (5 miles from Kingston), take car with blue signs and lights. Fare from Kingston to Hope Gardens and back, each way, 2 tickets, i\d. in money. Drive from Kingston through Half-v^ay Tree Village, king's house gardens and hope botanic gardens to GORDON town AND BACK. Gordon Town is 9 miles from Kingston. An interesting morning or afternoon drive of about 4 hours. Refreshments can be had at Gordon Town. Charge for buggy for 3 persons, i6j-. Drive from Kingston to New Castle. (CAMP OF the white TROOPS.) I DAY's OUTING. New Castle is 19 miles from Kingston, — elevation, 3,974 feet. The drive there takes about 4 hours. Start at about 7 a.m. Lunch at New Castle. Drive back to Kingston at about 2 p.m. Arrangements to be made. — Engage buggy to be ready at 6 a.m. Provide lunch, liquors, and ice. Rubber coats should be taken. Cost. — Charge for buggy for 3 persons, 40^-. Lunch, 3J- , if provided by hotel. One can also drive to Gordon Town, and ride from there to New Castle. Ponies can be hired at Gordon Town. Charge for buggy from Kingston to 39 Charge for pony from Gordon Town to New Castle and back, 8s. Drive from Kingston through Rock Fort to Cane River Falls. I day's outing. The Cane River Falls are 15 miles from Kingston. The drive there takes about 3 hours. Start at about 7 a.m. Lunch at the P^alls. Drive back to Kings- ton at about 3 p.m. Arrangements to he made. — Engage buggy to be ready at 6 A.M. Provide lunch, liquors, and ice. Cost. — Charge for buggy for 3 persons, 30^'. Lunch, 3j\, if provided by Myrtle Bank Hotel. Drive from Kingston over Stony Hill to Castleton. I day's outing. Castleton is 19 miles from Kingston, and 13 miles from Constant Spring. Start at about 7 a.m. Lunch on the banks of the Wag Water River^ Inspect the gardens. Drive back to Kingston at about 2 p.m. Ai'rangeme?its to be made. — Engage buggy to be ready at 6 a.m. Provide lunch, liquors, and ice. Rubber coats should be taken. Cost. — Charge for buggy for 3 persons, 40^^. Excursion from Kingston to Spanish Tovs^n and Bog Walk, occupying I day. 7.30 A.M., by train to Spanish Town (12 miles from Kingston), inspect Cathedral and King's House. Breakfast at the Rio Cobre Hotel. 10 A.M., by buggy to Bog Walk (9 miles from Spanish Town). 12 M., by buggy back to Spanish Town. Lunch at the Rio Cobre Hotel. 3 p.m., by buggy back to Kingston (2 hours). Arrangements to be made. — Engage buggy in Kingston to be ready at the Rio Cobre Hotel at 9 a.m. 40 Island Tours. 'T'HE trips given in Tour I. are for tourists with limited time ^ stay- ing over one steamer only, giving nine days on the island. The usual time of arrival is Monday morning, although from stress of weather the steamers are vSometimes a few hours late, which would shorten the trip proportionately. The time of saiHng is practically unchanged. '«!*Xi «^, Titchheld Hotel from the Harbor — Port Antonio. our THIRST DAY. — Tourists landing at Port Antonio from the United •^ Fruit Company's ships are met by an agent from the Hotel Titchfield, who will take charge of their luggage and conduct them to carriages for the hotel, where they will find comfortable rooms, good table and beds, and excellent sanitary arrangements. On arriving at the hotel, — beautifully situated on a hill, — the selection of rooms, adjusting one's self to new surroundings, and pos- 41 sibly a few hours' rest are in order. At Port Antonio there are neither flies nor mosquitoes, strange as it may seem in a warm cli- mate. One of the notable features of Port Antonio is the exceptionally fine sea bathing, — the finest in the West Indies. The temperature of the water is about 80°, and so delightful that very few miss their daily swim. Bath-houses and bathing suits are provided by the Titchfield. There are no sharks, as the bathing grounds are pro- tected by reefs. After luncheon, carriages may be secured at the hotel ofiice at reasonable rates, and a drive of seven miles taken, either to Blue Hole along the eastern coast or into the country to the banana plantations, and possibly on as far as Mooretown, one of the towns inhabited by the Maroons. They are descendants of runaway slaves who fled to the mountains, and, secure in their natural strongholds, defied capture, and finally became an independent people. Second Day. — If the drive to Blue Hole be taken on the first afternoon, the second morning may be devoted to a stroll about the town, visiting the ruins of the old Spanish fort near the hotel, and an excursion to the lower town, taking a peep into some of the little shops, which, though perhaps uninviting from the outside, often con- tain pretty cotton and muslin dress goods. This trip can be easily taken on foot ; but, if one is too weary to climb the hill on the return to the hotel, there are carriages or 'buses, as they are called, which will make the trip for sixpence, or 12 cents, apiece. A delightful way to visit Castleton Gardens * is to make the trip from Port Antonio, leaving there on the 6.20 train in the morning for Annotto Bay, thirty miles by rail, where carriages are in waiting (per telephone order) for Castleton, twelve miles, returning on train ar- riving in Port Antonio at 6.20 p.m., making this trip before going to Spanish Town. * See also pages 50 and 55. 42 On the second afternoon the drive which was not taken the first day may be enjoyed. On the second evening the necessary luggage for the Kingston trip should be packed. The articles not required, such as heavy clothing, etc., may be left in charge of the hotel agent, to be put on board the steamer which is to be taken for the home trip. Due notice should be given at the office, in order that early breakfast may be served and a carriage ordered for the station. Third Day. — The train leaves at 6.20 a.m., and tickets to Kings- ton are 12 shillings, or $3, first class, and 6 shillings, or $1.50, third class.* The distance is seventy-five miles. (The round trip, Port Antonio to Kingston, may be made on Sunday for half-rate.) Check baggage through to Kingston, but leave train at Bog Walk. There a trap, seating three persons and driver, may be obtained from Mrs. Gibson (who keeps a lodging-house near by the station) for the drive to Spanish Town, which will cost 10 shillings, or $2.50. This drive of about nine miles is very beautiful, following the course of a river for some distance through a wild gorge, passing the power house for the Kingston Electric Car Company, then across the level country of the Leguanea Plain to the once famous old town. It is advisable to drive directly to the Rio Cobre Hotel, dismiss the trap, and order luncheon. The price of board is $3 per day (12 shil- Hngs) or $15 per week (£s). There will then be about two hours in which to see Spanish Town. It will be found rather warm to walk at this time of the day ; and a 'bus had better be engaged, at a cost of 3 shillings, or 75 cents, per hour. An interesting feature of Span- ish Town is the cathedral, f with its varied architecture, the proper name of this ancient church being San Jago de la Vega, St. James on the Plain. The Most Reverend Enos Mittall, Archbishop of the West Indies, Bishop of Jamaica, is also dean of the cathedral. The verger is of the typical English type, a slight man in build, who from a boy has grown up in his place, and who knows and loves the * Many tourists prefer to travel third class, where a better opportunity is given to see the people of the country. t About three minutes' walk from the Rio Cobre. 43 cathedral with the devotion of the true churchman. A thorough inspection is well worth the two hours required to do it justice. In the churchyard to the left of the entrance is an old grave dated 1638. Among the older epitaphs are these : — Here Lyeth the body of Dame Elizabeth the Wife of Sir Thomas Modyford Baronet Governor of His Maj- esty's Island of Jamaica who died the i2TH of No- vember 1668 being the 20TH YEAR OF THEIR HAPPY wedded LIFE. Here Lyeth the Body of Mr. Gary Helyar Marchant WHO dyed the 5th Day of July 1672 and in the 39 Yeare OF HIS AGE Rev: 14TH Blessed are the Dead that Dye in the Lord They Rest from Theire Laboure. At the cathedral one may obtain a shp reprinted from St. Jago Gazette Nov. 3, 1791, giving a quaint account of the funeral of the Countess of Effingham, who died in Jamaica, and was buried with appropriate honors. Other points of interest are one or two excellent monuments, works of the famous English sculptor, Bacon, the government build- ings, — now silent and deserted, except for a few offices, — and King's House, with its great ballroom, banquet-hall, and many chambers. It was here that the governors resided when Spanish Town was the seat of government, and many and grand were the levees held in this famous building. In the public square, Spanish Town, there is an exquisitely chiselled marble statue of Queen Victoria, life-size, bear- ing the inscription : — VIGTORIA OF Great Britain and Ireland Queen Empress of India and of Jamaica Supreme Lady. 1837-1901. 45 Drives out of Spanish Town are Port Henderson, six and one- half miles ; into interior, one and one-quarter hours. Price, 4 shil- lings each ; 1 2 shillings for cab. Saddle horses, 4 shillings per hour. To Bog Walk, nine miles. Price, 12 shilHngs each way, for trap, three passengers. Rio Cobre Hotel, Spanish Town. Irrigation Head Works, 8 shillings for trap, three persons, one hour ; four miles on way from Bog Walk to Spanish Town. Take a boat down the canal, and row for about an hour, then meet the carriages by the bridge. Fine fall of water over the rocks. This drive is best taken after an early breakfast, returning in time for luncheon. United Fruit Company's Plantation, Great Salt ponds, from which we get the famous Cahpeva, or river, salmon. Drive through the plantation, — bananas, oranges, pineries. Price, 3 shillings 10 pence ; distance, four miles ; time, one hour into the interior. 46 The Cayman's sugar estate for making Jamaica rum and sugar is on the road to Kingston, six and one-half miles from Rio Cobre ; time, one and one-quarter hours. Price, lo shillings each way for trap, three persons. A short drive about the town to see some of the old houses now in ruins will fill up the time till luncheon at the Rio Cobre, which is Gardens in Rear of Myrtle Bank Hotel, Kingston. always good, and largely of Jamaican dishes, including fried ackie, stewed guavas with cocoanut cream, and other native delicacies. The hotel will provide a trap to the station at sixpence a person, and the train leaves for Kingston at 2.07 p.m. The Rio Cobre Hotel is clean and cool, with broad piazzas, up- stairs sitting-room, general parlor, and reading-room. It is owned by Elder Dempster Company. Miss Agnes Preston, Proprietor ; price 12 shillings per day, 3 pounds per week. On arriving at Kingston, take 'buses or electric cars for hotels, the principal ones being Myrtle Bank Hotel, beautifully located near the harbor, and yet directly in the city. Park Lodge on same street, or 47 " Constant Spring " Hotel, six miles from railroad station, towards the mountains, 500 feet above sea level, on line of electric road. The fare on the electric railway in Kingston is 2^. / 7 tickets for i shilling. If Myrtle Bank is selected, the afternoon may be profitably spent rest- ing on the veranda until the cool of the evening, when a short drive Constant Spring Hotel (just out of Kingston). can be taken about the city and to Up Park Camp, where the West India Regiment is stationed. The black soldiers, in their pictur- esque Zouave costume and white turbans, present a fine appearance. Fourth Day. — In the morning the train may be taken for one of the two trips here given, Mandeville or Moneague. The reader will remember that these suggestions are for those having only a Hmited time on the island. Therefore, but one of the two tiips can be taken. If the Mandeville trip is selected, the train from Kingston should 48 be taken at 11.30 a.m. for Williamsfield. Tickets: first class, 9 shil- lings, or $2.25 ; and just half the price, third class. Traps are wailing at Williamsfield station to meet this train ; but. Fete Day on Plantation of United Fruit Company near Rio Cobre Hotel, Spanish Town, on the Way to the Great Salt Ponds. if a later train is taken, it will be necessary to telegraph to The Grove, or Brooks Hotel, Mandeville, for a trap. The fare is 2 shilUngs and sixpence, or 62 cents, a person. Comfortable board maybe obtained at Brooks's Hotel ; also at Miss Roys's, Mrs. HaUiday's, Mrs. Dillet's, and other lodgings. 49 Mandeville is a pretty little town, quite English in its appearance; and the afternoon may be pleasantly spent driving about and visiting the different coffee and orange plantations. Fifth Day. — The next morning the train may be taken either at 6.18 A.M. or 12.07 P-^^- for the return trip to Kingston, arriving there at 8.45 A.M. or 2.35 P.M., respectively. If one prefers to go to Moneague on the fourth day, it will be better to leave by an afternoon train for Ewarton, the terminus of the branch. From here on there is a beautiful drive of nine and one- half miles over Mount Diabolo to the pretty little Moneague Hotel, situated in the heart of the country, where a quiet, restful night may be spent. Board is from 10 shilhngs to 14 shilHngs per day ($2.50 to $3.50 in our money). One of the greatest charms of this trip is the return drive in the early morning over the mountain, while the mist Ues in the valleys below. If the early return is made, then on the fifth morning a carriage or trap may be engaged for a trip to Castleton, a beautiful drive of nineteen miles to the government Botanical Gardens. This will be an all-day trip, and the start would better be made early in the morning. Luncheon may be obtained at the Castleton Cottages Hotel, or, if one prefers to picnic, luncheon can be taken from the Kingston Hotel, and tea will be served from the Cottage Hotel, in the pretty bamboo arbor. The gardens contain specimens from all parts of the w^orld, and the palm gardens are especially beautiful. The drive home is best delayed until rather late in the afternoon on account of the heat, which is, however, at no time very severe. See also page 42, trips from Port Antonio. Distance from Kingston is nineteen miles, from Annotto Bay is twelve miles. Sixth Day. — The next day should be devoted to Kingston, vis- iting the Victoria Market early in the morning. Among the other principal points of interest are : the Museujn, which, while not very large, is full of interest, containing portraits of all the governors of 50 Jamaica, specimens of Jamaica woods, fish, and minerals, and some old relics, together with an interesting model of the island of Jamaica. The Self-help, an institution similar to the Women's Exchange in the United States, is located on Church Street, and is well worth a visit. There are on sale baskets, photographs, articles made of the famous lace bark and dagger plants, carved cocoanuts, and other curious and useful articles. One should not fail to visit Princess Street, and see the quaint little negro shops and buy the bright-colored bandanna handker- chiefs, so distinctively Jamaican, to be obtained here in great variety. King's House, the home of the governor, or Hope Ga?'den, can be visited in the late afternoon, when it will be pleasant driving. No special directions have been given regarding the location of the places visited, as all coachmen and 'bus drivers are familiar with these places. If one prefers, the electric cars may be used for many of the trips around Kingston. 'Buses can always be engaged in the court-yard of the Myrtle Bank Hotel or on the street ; and a carriage and pair of horses may be had at prices ranging from £\ to £2, according to the distance to be travelled. Seventh Day. — The next day may be devoted to the various churches, the Parish Church (Episcopal), Choke Chapel (Wesleyan), and the Presbyterian Kirks being the principal ones. Eighth Day. — On the eighth day a trip to Port Royal may be taken. The time and place of departure of the boats can be obtained at the hotel office. Port Royal is the naval station, and has been greatly strengthened by the Engfish government. It has an inter- esting history, and was wholly destroyed by earthquake at half-past eleven o'clock on the morning of June 17, 1692. If one prefers, Newcastle, the camp of the white troops, situated on the steep sides of a mountain, may be substituted for the excur- sion to Port Royal. This is a driving and riding trip ; and, if the 51 day is clear, the view from Newcastle is very fine. A carriage and pair, and, later in the journey, horses may be obtained to go to Newcastle for three persons the round trip about 54 shiUings ($13.50) : arrange price with drivers (see pages 39 and 40). Another trip is to the sugar estate Mona, where one may see the interesting workings of a sugar-mill. It is but a short distance outside the city, and can easily be seen in a morning or afternoon. Ninth Day. — The Bosto7i steamer is due in Kingston on Tues- day, and her time of sailing can be ascertained at the office of the United Fruit Company on King Street. If the New York, Balti- more, or Philadelphia steamer is to be taken for the home trip, it will be necessary to return to Port Antonio, as those steamers do not go to Kingston. 53 ho a o 6 ^i Tour II. [In three parts.) 'T^OUR I. was arranged for the benefit of tourists having only nine ■*• days on the island. For the traveller whose time is unlimited more extended itineraries follow. Time required, Part I., One Day ; Part II., Three Hours ; Part III., Two and One-half Hours. From Port Antonio, beginning with the arrival of the steamer, the short excursion already given may be supplemented by the following : — To Castleton, via Annotto Bay. (I.) — Time required. One Day. The trip to Castleton from Port Antonio is, perhaps, more attractive than from Kingston. It will be necessary to arrange at the hotel for carriages to meet the train at Annotto Bay. This should be done the day before ; at the same time order luncheon put up for the trip. Take the early morning train for Annotto Bay, a pleasant ride of thirty miles. Annotto Bay is not attractive enough to claim much time, and it will be better to start immediately for the Gardens. This is a beau- tiful drive of eleven miles over an excellent road, the scenery of which is almost unrivalled. It should take about two hours, and on arrival extra wraps and luncheon may be left at the Castleton Cottages. On all trips on the north side of the island do not fail to take waterproofs and umbrellas. Arrangements may be made at the Cottages for tea or coffee to be served with the luncheon, which, if the day proves pleasant, will be best taken under one of the bamboo shelters in the garden. From the Cottages a path leads directly into the Gardens ; and a longer or shorter time may be spent in seeing the beautiful plants, trees, palms, etc. It is desirable to see as much of the Gardens as possible before the middle of the day, and by twelve o'clock to repair to the cool shade of the bamboo arbors in the lower or river garden, the part situated on the river. 55 If one is fond of river bathing and has remembered to bring a bathing suit, a dip in one of the many pools will be found most re- freshing. Two hours may be pleasurably spent in rest and refresh- ment before the return drive to catch the afternoon train at Annotto Bay for Port Antonio. Leaving the Gardens at two o'clock will give ample time to reach Annotto Bay. The Castleton trip for three persons should cost 4 shillings six- pence, round trip, for railroad fare; 10 shilUngs each for carriage to Castleton; in all, 14 shilUngs sixpence, or $3.62. To Spring Bank, via Shot Over. (II.) — Time required three hours, horseback. Another trip which will fully repay the tourist is a ride up Spring Bank and back by way of Shot Over, — a corruption of the ancient name of Chateau Vert, — both estates located on the mountains near Port Antonio. For this horses must be engaged at the hotel office, and the trip is best taken in the very early morning. Be sure of a clear day, for the charm of this trip is in the beautiful view. It can be done easily in less than three hours, and should certainly be taken, as the view from the top of the ridge, embracing as it does the Blue Mountains and valleys on one side and a long stretch of coast line on the other, makes it not only one of the finest in Jamaica, but scarcely to be equalled anywhere. To Park Mount. (III.) — Time required two and one-half hours, horseback. Another delightful horseback ride is to Park Mount, over a well- kept bridle path, overlooking Golden Vale, Tom's Hope, Windsor, Port Antonio, and a long stretch of coast. The color effects on Blue Mountain peak and its ravines at sunrise are beautiful to a de- gree surpassing description. 57 Tour III. 'T'HIS tour is arranged so that the traveller may see something -^ of the interior, which may best be had by driving. The price is largely a matter of agreement with the driver. The territory covered includes Port Antonio to Albany by train, and driving to Port Maria, St. Ann's via Roaring River Falls and Ocho Rios, to Moneague via Fern Gully, thence to Kingston via Mount Diabolo and Ewarton. Total cost, including railroad fare, each person, 40 shillings each for a party of three, not including board and lodging. Tours II., III., and IV. may be taken from Port Antonio either as a part of Tour I. or independently. Time, three and one-half days. A Driving Trip. The tourist may digress and take in White River Falls, Tour IV. (p. 64), and then continue Tour III. as indicated. First Day. — Port Antonio to Port Maria via Albany. By tak- ing the 6.20 A.M. train to Albany, fare 2 shilHngs 9 pence, third class each way, the trip can be made delightful, the coolness of the morning and the coloring of the sea and the mountains adding to the pleasure of travelling. For miles the railroad fol- lows the shore ; and, in choosing his seat, one may take the sat- isfying grandeur of ocean scenery on the right or the high lights and shadows on the mountains to the left of the coach. The train arrives at Albany at 8. 11 a.m.; and by telegraphing the day before to Mr. Savaramo, office United Fruit Company, Port Maria, a buggy and horses will be at the station on arrival of the train. Liveryman Samuel Campbell is intelligent and thoroughly trustworthy. A good luncheon, with native dishes, may be had at Mrs. Rankin's lodgings. Main Street, Port Maria, for 2 shilhngs. It is well to spend the night at Port Maria ; for the town is quaint and restful, and a night's rest must be had. A drive of about two or three miles should be taken to visit Kin Fauns, the Went- 58 worth cocoanut " pen " of about six hundred acres. This estate is leased by the United Fruit Company, and on a high knoll at the end of a long driveway is located a fine old West Indian mansion- house. The view from this height, overlooking the vast grove of cocoanuts, is something that baffles description. The soft light of Moneague Hotel, Moneague. the moon upon the with Galena Point at open sea to the left, Second Day. — To dew-covered leaves of the cocoanut trees^ the right, the mountains beyond, and the make a picture never to be forgotten. St. Ann's via Roaring River Falls and Ocho Rios. The drive from Port Maria is through the heart of the coun- try and far enough from the railroads to enable the tourist to see the natives in their own environment. And this is the advantage of a driving tour, — the native point of view. The road leads through the 59 little village of Ocho Rios to Roaring River Falls, well worth the trip for their unique beauty. Under no conditions should the tourists be tempted to go to the Upper Falls ; for, although the view is beautiful, it is a long, hot walk, and the ticks are so numerous as to remain with one during his entire visit to the island. The little town of St. Ann's is delightfully located on the side of a hill that descends sharply to the sea. This is the " garden of Jamaica," most healthfully located, cool and high, with a magnificent view of the harbor and the island extending like a panorama in every direction. There are many picturesque drives about the town, in- cluding St. Ann's Bay {the Sevelle d'Ora of the Spaniards). One may find lodgings at Mrs. Isaacs's or Mrs. Mcintosh's at lo shillings per day, board included. Third Day. — To Moneague via Ocho Rios and Fern Gully or via Claremont. There are two ways to go to Moneague ; and, if the Claremont road is taken, the attractions are the fine estates passed and the good views of the country. If one has not seen Fern Gully, that road via Ocho Rios should be chosen. With an early start from St. Ann's the Gully is reached about i p.m., in time for eating the luncheon that has been taken. For about two miles the road is between enormously high cliffs, refreshingly cool, and covered with a most delightful growth of ferns and other tropical foliage. The approach to the Gully is through the little town of Ora Cabessa, with a post-office and telegraph station. The Moneague Hotel is at the end of this day's drive, and is reached about 5 p.m., after a most interesting trip, in ample time for rest and dinner. Moneague Hotel is situated on the top of a hill overlooking the town of Moneague. The accommodations are excellent, at 12 shillings per day or £t^ 10 shillings per week, the cuisine being one of the best on the whole island, while the coolness and dry airiness of the place remind one that he is high among the hills. The drives from Moneague are many and varied, and the scenery is quite different from that in any other part of the island. 61 Fern Gully on the Way to Moneague. Fourth Day. — To Kingston via Ewarton. The drive to Ewar- ton, of nine miles, where the railroad is taken for Kingston, is about one and a half hours, and would best be taken in the early morning, arranging for an early breakfast and a start by 6 a.m., at the latest. The joys of a morning drive in the tropics are well worth the extra effort of early rising. The road is over Mount Diabolo, about two thousand feet above sea level ; and the view of the mist of St. Thomas in the Vale is one of the features of this unique drive. The roads, always good, grow higher and higher over the mountain ; and the scenery is most delightful. Ewarton is reached in the early morning ; and a short railway ride — fare, first class, 5 shillings ; third class, 2 shillings sixpence — brings one to Kingston. 63 .-^^■^^i».- .^£^...- J... ^:^- a ^ ^, ^^ ^ J mmm:fi:^.:W'^^^' '■ - • .' ,^^^- ' ^w: ^. -^^^v^ -_^ ^^^-I,,;:i4 -r ^-n.Je.:vV-/; -•.■/-" ^^fe ■■B^^iifc;^^.^&-'^ ■■,...; , . ^_ - , . ■ ^.,^* : :;,: ' '"""""^"'''^S^s^^SSH^HBHII^^HH ^lEig^^m Galena Point, near Port Maria. T u r IV. 'npRIP TO White River Falls (off the road from Ocho Rios). -'' From Point Antonio via Albany by train and carriage to Ocho Rios. Riding and Driving Trip. Time, one day. From Port Antonio. — Take the train to Albany 6.20 a.m., having telegraphed the day before to Miss Fletcher, Clifton Lodge, Ocho Rios Post-office. Buggy will meet the train at Albany. Have luncheon at Mrs. Rankin's Lodgings at Port Maria. Price per day, 10 shillings ($2.50) ; per week, 60 shillings ($15). Driver with carriage will meet tourists at Frankfort. The trip may also be taken from Kingston or Spanish Town, in which case ride as far as Ewarton, having arranged for a buggy to drive to Moneague Hotel. The drive can easily be made from that point to Clifton Lodge. The secretary of the Moneague Hotel will arrange with driver regarding the directions for the trip. The drive is about two hours from Moneague, and is always more delightful in the morning. State in message the number in the party and probable time of arrival. It is possible to arrange a most enjoyable trip, to sleep that night at the Lodge, see the wonderful White River Falls and go on to Roaring River and Fern Gully the same day. 64 Tour V. 'TpHIS chapter is devoted to the itinerary of a trip around the -'■ island with Kingston as the starting-point. To Mandeville via Williamsfield. — Taking the train which leaves Kingston at 11.30 a.m.^ WilHamsfield is reached about two o'clock. The distance from Kingston to Williamsfield (the railway station nearest Mandeville) is forty-five miles. The fare is about 8 shillings, first class ; third class, 4 shillings sixpence. A pleasant uphill drive of four and one-half miles by stage from Williamsfield brings us to Mandeville, where we have a choice of the Brooks Hotel and good lodging-houses, — Miss Roys's, Mrs. HalHday's, and Mrs. Billet's. The Grove ; also Brooks Hotel, 8 to 1 2 shillings per day, American plan. Lodging-houses, Miss Roys's and Mrs. Halliday's, 6 shilhngs per day, American plan, £2 2s. per week. The principal points of interest about Mandeville are the orange and coffee estates and the drives, of which Spur-tree Hill is the most noted. The cUmate of Mandeville is delightful, and its people friendly and hospitable. To Malvern, Santa Cruz Mountains. — From Mandeville one may drive to the Santa Cruz Mountains, the air of which is dry and clear and exceptionally beneficial for lung complaints. This is about twelve miles from the railway station ; but stage-coaches pass daily, and letters and telegrams may be had from Santa Cruz office. The Astor House is kept by Mr. Lawrence. The Pavilion Sanatorium is located at Santa Cruz Mountains, Jamaica, elevation 2,300 feet. The proprietor is Mrs. Leslie Alexander. The post-office address is Malvern. With equable temperature and dry atmosphere, it is highly commended by the medical faculty of the island. The accom- modations are of the best. There is also the Malvern House in the Santa Cruz Mountains. 6s Proprietor, Mr. Isaacs. Rate, lo shillings sixpence per day, £2 2 shillings per week. One mile from town, at Longwood, comfortable lodgings may be had at 10 shillings per day. E. M. Nowra, proprie- tor. The railway station is Balaclava ; and the drive is twenty-four miles into the mountains, with fine scenery along the way. The rail- way fare is 10 shiUings sixpence, first class, from Kingston; third Public Market, West Street, Port Antonio. class, half-rate. Further information about this trip can be had by applying at the office of hotels in Mandeville. From Kingston or Mandeville to Montego Bay (including Christiana, Balaclava, Troy, Savanna-la-mar, and Lucea). — This trip may be made from Kingston or Mandeville on the way to Montego Bay. Take the train to Kendal, and from there by a trap (ordered from Miller's livery stables, Christiana Post-office, cost 10 shillings, one passenger, 12 shiUings for two) to Christiana, eight and one-half 66 miles. Christiana is 2,800 feet above sea level, is about eight hundred feet higher than Mandeville, and possesses a cooler and drier dimate. Plain but comfortable quarters may be had at Miss Mulling's lodgings. From Christiana a trap may be hired to go to Balaclava via Troy. The distance is about twenty-two miles. This is a magnificent drive, with some of the grandest and wildest scenery in Jamaica. The road passes through the ginger district, where the finest ginger in the world is grown, then through lands that are just being settled, and through the Cockpit Country. In passing through the woods, the note of the Solitaire may be heard. A few miles from Balaclava a halt will be made to allow a visit to the famous Oxford Cave, as it is not far off the road, extends a considerable distance, and is well worth a visit. At Balaclava, lodgings for the night may be had, and the journey to Montpelier continued next day. To Montpelier via Kendal or Williamsfield. — The next stage in the trip around the island is to drive either to Kendal or to Williamsfield^ where the train is taken for Montpelier. This is the most interesting portion of the railroad ride, crossing, as it does, a part of the famous Cockpit Coimtry, both wild and desolate. By this time the tourist will have become familiar with the train ser- vice, and will arrange his time to suit. The train reaches Montpelier in the early afternoon. The Montpelier hotel is one of the most comfortable in the island, and a good table is served. Board ranges from 12 to 16 shiUings per day ($3 to $4). The especial points of interest are the large and beautiful pens, or grazing farms, of Montpelier and Shuttlewood, where may be seen fine specimens of the famous Zebu Indian cattle imported for labor and breeding purposes ; also the large tobacco fields and cigar factory. To SaV ANNA-LA-MAR AND MONTEGO BaY VIA LUCEA. From Montpelier the coach may be taken to Savanna-la-mar, a distance of twenty-four miles. The road passes the famous pen of Knockalava, belonging to Lord Malcolm. This pen is famed for its splendid (>7 ^ breed of Hereford cattle, from stock imported at great expense from Great Britain. Savanna-la-mar is a thriving little town, and its one street is said to be made from the ballast dumped by vessels going there to load sugar. A large amount of sugar and logwood are shipped from this point. There is a choice of lodging-houses, Miss Franklin's and Mrs. Hales's. A drive of ten miles across the island, with the Dolphin's Head hardly ever out of sight, brings the traveller to the pretty Uttle town of Lucea, famed for its yams. Here lodgings may be had with Mrs. Rogers. From Lucea to Montego Bay is twenty-five miles, and the distance may be made by trap or stage-coach. The road follows the shore, and is always cool and pleasant. To Montego Bay. — It is only nine miles by train from Mont- pelier to Montego Bay, the end of the railway journey ; and, as one emerges from the tunnel high above the town, a beautiful view is presented, — the harbor with its many tiny islands, the distant sea, and the town with its surrounding hills. The Bogue Islands (or atolls) are extremely interesting. Arriving at Montego Bay, cabs may always be found at the station for a drive around the town. Mrs. Jervis's lodgings is reliable, and a place where one may be sure of good food. One of the first places visited will be the Parish Church, which contains one of Bacon's masterpieces, the monument erected to the memory of Rose Palmer. As the legend runs, this woman was famous, not for her good deeds, but for her misdeeds, having in the course of her life married and disposed of four husbands. She was finally mur- dered by her slaves, whom she had treated with extreme cruelty. The discoloration around the neck of the figure, and also the mark on the pedestal resembling a blood-stain, are said to have appeared some time after the erection of the monument, showing positively her guilt. This fact may be taken for what it is worth, but no one wants to spoil a good story. 69 There is another story to the effect that this monument was erected to a Httle Enghshwoman who was as sweet and good as Rose Palmer was the reverse. Montego Bay is the second largest town on the island, and con- tains a number of fine old houses. There is an excellent sanatorium .•&-''^ . -V^ 'wk*^**.'' }i^- •^^:T r % ^^ms^ ' ,^!- ' 1^ „.^ "i : •,.,.«• / W Coolie Family. here, well located, just out of the town and near a good bathing beach. From Montego Bay one may drive to West Lucea, one of the prettiest towns on the island, having a strong resemblance to Port Antonio as seen from the eastern harbor. The town has a most thrifty appearance 5 and many of the houses are very attrac- tive, not unlike the houses of the Southern States. To Falmouth. — If one prefers, he may return to Montpelier on 70 the late afternoon train for the night, having first made arrange- ments for a trap to continue the journey in the early morning along the shore road to Falmouth. The other plan would be to spend the night at Montego Bay at one of the two lodging-houses, Harrison's on the hill, or Mrs. Payne's^ in the town. The start for Falmouth would better be made quite early in the cool of the morning. The road follows the shore very closely. At times the coachmen even drive through the water. No one can fail to notice the vivid coloring of the sea, which at this point is particu- larly beautiful. A drive of about nine miles brings us to Rose Hall, the home of Rose Palmer, mentioned on the previous page. Driv- ing into the grounds, the courteous overseer is always pleased to show tourists through the old sugar-works, vv^hich are still in operation. About a quarter of a mile beyond, on a sHght elevation at the end of a winding drive, stands the old hall, now partly in ruins. The old care-taker is proud to show visitors the splendid mahogany floor, still kept finely polished, the mahogany balustrade to the stair- way, and the carved mahogany frieze in the drawing-room. The rest of the house is in a state of great dilapidation, but a few of the trees of the old garden are still standing. Resuming the drive, we continue on the beautiful coast road, reaching Falmouth (about sixteen miles further on) in time for luncheon at one of the lodging-houses. Comfortable lodgings may be had with Mrs. Jacobs at Falmouth; price, 8 to lo shillings per day ($2.00 to $2.50) with 10 per cent, discount for a week. Falmouth is a quaint old town, and was formerly one of the most important sugar centres. If one has leisure, a couple of days may be spent here, the time being employed in visiting the old sugar estates and orange properties, and, of course, the usual walks and drives about the town. To St. Ann's Bay via Dry Harbor or Browns Town. — Continuing the journey, there is a choice of two roads, — still keeping on to the coast road or taking what is known as the interior road. 71 The especial attractions of the coast road are the caves situated at Dry Harbor, about half-way between Falmouth and St. Ann's Bay. For a part of the way the interior road is mountainous, and also passes many sugar estates. Browns Town, by the interior road, is about twenty miles from Falmouth. Washing in the Brook. Browns Town is a prettily situated village in the Parish of St. Ann, "the Garden of Jamaica," eight miles from the seaports of Dry Harbor and Runaway Bay. This town has been the seat of great commercial activity, being the outlet for the products of the fertile and populous Dry Harbor and Alexandria Mountain districts ; but, owing to the present lov/ price of coffee (the principal product of those mountains), and the in- creased railway facilities, by the extension of the line to Kendal, much of its former prominence in a commercial sense has departed, 72 though the people still dispose of their large coffee crops amongst the dealers in the town. Browns Town proper had a population at the last census of two thousand, and is i,ioo feet above the level of the sea. It is thirty-four miles from Ewarton, one of the termini of the railway, eight miles from Dry Harbor (where two coasting steamers, with passenger accommodations, call weekly), eighteen miles from St. Ann's Bay along the coast road, and twenty-five miles from Fal- mouth, whence the traveller proceeds along the seacoast to Montego Bay, another of the termini of the railway. Another road through the mountains, passing through the coffee, pimento, and orange plan- tations, takes the traveller to Mandeville, thirty-seven miles distant. All these roads, like most of the main roads in the island, are in perfect condition. Browns Town has some fine public buildings, a court-house and town hall, a fine market, an Episcopal church (the interior of which is extremely interesting, the pulpit and reredos being works of art), a Methodist chapel, and two Baptist missions. Many features of interest are to be found in the locality. Between Dry Harbor and Runaway Bay is the celebrated Oxford cave, with numerous chambers glistening with stalactites and stalagmites, where the Spaniards are supposed to have deposited their treasure ; and the whole coast line breathes the spirit of romance and legendary lore. The mountain drives are also very interesting and pretty, while the walks along the shaded lanes afford glimpses of beautiful landscape with occasional sea views. The temperature is cool, dry, and bracing ; and visitors with weak constitutions derive great benefit from their sojourn here. The only hotel in the town is kept by Mrs. Delisser, and affords comfortable accommodation for a limited number of guests. The rates are reasonable, lo shillings ($2.50) per day. Livery carriages can always be obtained at reasonable rates. Here, too, one may obtain photographs of all parts of the island from the genial Dr. Johnston. 73 When the journey is resumed, a drive of twenty miles brings us to Sif. Ami's Bay, in the parish of St. Ann's, often called " the Garden of Jamaica." On the way the estate " Trenant," formerly occupied by Julian Hawthorne, is passed. Lodgings in St. Ann's may be had at " The Seville," Mrs. Harris's, Mrs. Isaacs's, or Mrs. Mcintosh's. Banana Steamer. Two or three days may be pleasantly spent in this beautiful parish. The first place visited will probably be the Roaring River Falls, and it is quite impossible adequately to describe their unique beauty. An enjoyable trip may be had by taking luncheon and loitering some time near the bridge about \ miles from the falls by the roadside under the cool shade of the trees and then driving on to Ocho Rios, crossing the white river and returning in the same way to St. Ann's Bay. Another point of interest on the road is the ruins of the Priory Church, a reHc of the old Spanish days. The church was connected with the monastery by a long, paved walk. A diligent search will be 74 rewarded by finding remains of this flagged walk, which is near Doctor's Runaway. The parish of St. Ann's abounds in beautiful estates, greatly re- sembling the old English places. They are principally grazing pens, and pimento is grown in large quantities. Jamaica is the only place in the world where pimento is raised commercially. Any one in- terested in schools will enjoy a day at York Castle, delightfully situ- ated high up in the Pedro Mountains. To Claremont. — Continuing the journey, a drive of about fif- teen miles takes us through the pretty town of Claremo7it to the Moneague Hotel. (See Trip IV.) From here drives to other parts of the parish may be taken, the most beautiful of which is the drive down Fern Gully, back to the Moneague by way of St. Ann's Bay. This drive may be taken in the reverse order, if desired ; but it is prettier to go down than to come up the gully to Moneague. A choice of two ways of returning to Kingston is open to the traveller, — either from the Moneague over Mount Diabolo to Ewar- ton, thence by train to Kingston, or continuing the drive through Fern Gully to Fort Maria, famous for its large cocoanut plantations, and then from Albany, eight miles further on, by train to Kingston or to Port Antonio. A double trap with driver from Montego Bay to Browns Town should cost about £4. ($20 of our money). From Browns Town to St. Ann's Bay should be about £2 ($10) more. The ordinary drives are from 10 shilhngs to^i, according to distance. The traveller having ample time will have no difficulty in finding other points of interest. The coachmen are always ready to give information, as, indeed, are all the people on the island. 75 Tour VI. 'T^O Chester Vale Coffee Plantation from Kingston via "*■ Newcastle. — Driving and horseback trip. Time required, three days. One of the pleasantest of the side trips is to Chester Vale Coffee Plantation, owned by Robert Sidgwick, post-office address Gordon Town. This plantation is 3,000 feet above the sea level, and blankets and fires are always necessary. The house is over two hun- dred years old, and sets in a basin between the hills on which there is a wonderful play of Hght and shadow. The food is good, the house well kept, and the accommodations for a small party are excellent. The trip is made from Kingston to Newcastle, five miles, horse- back, 5 shillings ($1.25), then driving from Newcastle to Papine Corners, ten miles, at a cost of 30 shillings ($7.50) for the trap, to be divided if more than one person. The drive is one of unusual in- terest, the scenery being grand beyond description. The special interest is in visiting a Blue Mountain coffee property, which cannot fail to be desirable if one is strong enough to take the trip. There is good river bathing, and excursions can be made from Chester Vale to Cinchona, Blue Mountain Peak, and St. Catherine Peak. No one should attempt the trip who is not prepared to stay over at least a day for rest, as it is exhausting, but well worth while. For taking this trip, telegraph for rooms in advance. In the tropics more time than at home should be allowed ; and the tourist would best take a day for going and a day for coming, with a day's rest in between. 77 Tour VII. T?ROM Kingston to Blue Mountain Peak. — Driving and Riding -*- Trips. — The mountain lover has probably looked longingly at Blue Mountain Peak, and the trip to the summit is easily taken from Kingston. A drive of nine miles in the early morning brings one to Gordon Town, where arrangements must be made for guides and ponies for the peak. This trip may be taken in two ways, — either to go on from Gordon Town, reaching the peak late in the afternoon and spending the night there in the rather dilapidated hut, or to make arrangements previously to spend the night at one of the estates below the peak, going on early in the morning. Information concerning these estates can be obtained at the Myrtle Bank, as it is not always convenient for the same people to entertain guests. If there are ladies in the party, the latter is the better plan, as there are no sleep- ing conveniences in the hut. If the former plan is carried out, one must be provided with extra wraps and rugs, the thermometer often dropping to below forty dur- ing the winter months. February and March are the best months in which to take this trip, as then one is surer of clear weather. It is well to carry a good stock of provisions, as the appetite increases with the altitude. If the weather is clear, views on the way up and from the peak are magnificent, and certainly repay one for the hardships and fatigue of the trip. To Yallahs and Morant Bay. — From Kingston the trip is con- tinued by carriage around the eastern end of the island. The first object of interest is Rock Fort, the remains of the old fort and wall which once protected Kingston on the east. This is a coast drive entirely. One of the oldest and best equipped of the sugar estates, Albion, is passed, and may be visited if desired. 78 Passing through the pretty Httle town of Yallahs, the next impor- tant point is Morant Bay, from which large quantities of bananas are shipped. It was here, in 1866, that the uprising of the black people commenced. There is nothing of special interest in Morant Bay, but a rest of a few hours would better be made here before resuming the journey to Bath. To Port Morant (Bowden) and Bath. — Twelve miles further on is the little town of Port Morant (known as Bowden), from which much fruit is shipped. Any one who wishes to avoid the drive may take the United Fruit Company's steamer at Kingston and come to Port Morant ; and then by carriage, six miles beyond, the famous old town of Bath is reached. Bath is very pretty, and is noted for its hot springs. Usually one gets good Jamaican cooking at Mrs. Duffey's lodgings. Of course, the baths are the objective point. A beautiful walk or drive of a mile and a half through the gorge brings one to the building, which contains a number of bath-rooms, attendants, etc. Accommodation for lodgers may be obtained in this building, if desired ; and meals will be furnished by the attendant. These baths are particularly efficacious in cases of rheumatism, liver and kidney troubles. Cost of single bath, i shilling (25 cents), or sixpence (12 cents), if several are taken the same day. To Milk River. — There is no surer cure for rheumatism in all the world than the Milk River baths. If one can brave the lonehness and mosquitoes, the most sorely afflicted may hope for great relief, and often positive cure if a sufficient time is given to this place ; but no half-way measures will do. Unless one is willing to take the prescribed number of baths, stay away, for the comforts are few. Milk River is easily reached from Clarendon Park by carriage. These baths are reached from Kingston by train to Clarendon Park, about an hour and a half's ride by train, thence by road, either coach or carriage, to Milk River. 79 o ) CO > Cl: From Bath the large banana estates of Golden Grove and Plantain Garden River may be visited. Bath also contains the oldest botanical garden on the island, but it is not now kept up. One should not fail to notice the enormous palm-tree in this garden. The main street of the town is lined with rows of Otaheite apple- trees, which in blossom or in fruit are equally beautiful. To CuNA-CuNA Gap. — A horseback ride of six miles may be taken from here to the famous Cima-Cuna Gap, passing through the Ma- roon village of Hayfield on the way. This ride may be continued across the island through the Cuna-Ciina Pass to Mooretown, and thence to Port Antonio, — a distance of twenty-five miles in all. The path is in many places steep and rocky ; and it is essential to have good horses and to be familiar with riding, if one intends making this trip. This way leads through one of the wildest parts of the island, intensely tropical in its vegetation, and here the note of the solitaire may be occasionally heard. It rests with the traveller to decide whether he will return to Kings- ton from Bath or continue his journey by carriage to Port Antonio. To Holland Bay. — Gentlemen will find alligator shooting at Holland Bay, which is also the location of the cable station, and may be reached from Bath. To Port Antonio. — The drive from Bath on to Port Antonio is principally along the coast, about thirty-eight miles. In some places the surf is very beautiful, especially near the little village of Manchioneal. To the tourist who has made this trip it will seem quite like reaching home to be again at an American hotel, with its good food and its general air of comfort and cleanliness. Of course there are no hard-and-fast rules in this little guide- book. The trip around the island just mentioned can be taken start- ing first from Moneague, and going on to St. Ann's Bay, Montego Bay, and back "by way of Mandeville, if preferred. Those fond of travelling by water can always join one of the United PYuit Company's steamers at Port Antonio, for the trip up and down the north coast and around to Kingston, going ashore at the different ports where fruit is shipped. One of the most inter- esting sights is to see the fruit loaded from lighters at the ports where there is no wharf. There are a great many other places of interest in Jamaica, which it is impossible to mention in so brief a work ; but, in spending any length of time there, the tourist will find them out for himself. One ot the greatest pleasures of travel is that of discovery. Bird's-eye View of Port Antonio. 82 » MAIN DECK Cabin Plans of United Frn o's " Admiral " Steamships. MAIN DECK booooooo SALOON Bell T i ??2 e on Shipboard. Time. 1 Bell 2 Bells 3 " 4 " 5 " 6 " 7 " 8 *' 1 Bell 2 Bells 3 " 4 " 5 " 6 " 7 " 8 " 1 Bell 2 Bells 3 " 4 " 5 " 6 " 7 " A .M. 12.30 1. 00 1.30 2.00 2.30 3.00 4.00 4-30 5.00 5-30 6.00 6.30 7.00 7-30 8. 00 8.30 9.00 9-30 10.00 10.30 11.00 11.30 Noon rime. P.M. 1 Bell 12 30 2 Bells I 00 1.30 2.00 2.30 3.00 3-3° 4.00 3 " 4 " 5 " 6 " 7 " 8 " 1 Bell 4.30 2 Bells 5.00 3 " 5-30 4 " 6.00 1 Bell 6.30 2 Bells 7.00 3 " 7-30 4 " 8.00 1 Bell . 8.30 2 Bells 9.00 • 9-30 . 10.00 • 10.30 . 11.00 • 11-30 Midnight Four to eight p.m. is divided into two " dog watches,'' called " first dog watch" and "last dog watch," so as to change the watches daily: otherwise starboard or port watch w^ould be on deck the same hours day after day. Distance at sea is reckoned by knots. The circumference of the earth is 360 degrees, each degree containing 60 knots of nautical miles. A knot equals 1.15 land miles. 15 knots equals 17.28 land miles. Rates for Buggies.' From Port A utoino to Park IVagotifor J. Double Buggy. Single Buggy. £■ s. d. £. s. d. £. s. d. Rio Grande Bridge 0140 0100 060 St. Margaret's Bay 0160 0120 080 Hope Bay 140 100 0160 Orange Bay 1150 iioo 150 Buff Bay 2100 200 itoo Annotto Bay 400 300 2100 Port Maria — 500 400 Castleton Gardens — 500 400 Kingston — 600 500 Golden Vale 0160 0120 080 Fellowship 0120 080 060 Windsor 100 0140 0100 Mooretown 140 0180 0140 Williamsfield 0120 080 060 Blue H0I3 0160 0120 080 Priestmans River 180 100 0160 Manchicneal 2100 200 1100 tPort Morant — 5100 4100 Morant Bay — 600 500 Bath — 500 400 Kingston, by way of INIorant Bay . — 700 600 In Kingston the omnibus fare for three persons within city limits is 6d. each. 'Buses can be hired at 3^-. per hour. Special arrangements always save misunder- standings, and are necessary beyond the city limits. Double buggies in Kingston, 20J-. per day. * Commonly known as 'buses, t Special rates for three or five persons at £1 each may be arranged for between Port Antonio and Port Morant and Bowden. Many tourists avail themselves of the trip to Bowden by Boston ship. The '■ Peak View Cottages" at Bowden afford excellent accommodations. Return by car- riage makes a very interesting trip. ^i w'.sM '^ « o f^ •oci coo 5 0iC5aiOc.-ir-ii,^ , q" c'CC-t< CD O L- t-^ t- t- CC 00 00 00 00 ^5, ^ 2 »- ^^ S ^ M-^ ^ ri 'A • ^ CO CO ># »o q T-< CO iq q i-i rtn S « ■■*'■*•<# "#' Tt ic 10 lO o cc CO CO CO 32 ^S^'^S -cooooc^ico-* CO Tt ic q g q CI ^N iq o c^_ CO ■ i-J ^' r-i (N • O rn- O ^ ».^ ' 85 X u z < (^ » z o h 0^ CA! < ^ ^ < M p:i Q h z f4 < H O u ^ S2 W ^ C/2 C/2 2 <1^ P-i ■OC5OCDb-C0O00Ot-t-i J X «)' ;0 «D CD t-^ t-^ 00 00 00 05 05 OS p o ) p cc fo ■* o I Tj< iri o ic lo <»' gC^COlOO'-H'>#i-HC<50i-lTj<0'-'?4-:fM S*". ' K-Q ^ o o g "^ rt ^ *^ >• S ■ g M CO •* lo (N Ti; p c^ in rH Tt< ic '-I i?» t; J^^ (m" s. 6d. per day, £2 10s. per week. Mrs. Cooke, proprietor. Kingston. — Mrs. Harris's Lodgings "The Seville." Mrs. Harris, proprietor. Kingston. — The Hamburg-American Cafe, 107 Harbour Street, I'^able dWiote, also a la carte. Restaurant only. 10 a.m. to ii p.m. Conrad Simon & Co., proprietors. Kingston. — Marine Gardens. Detached cottages for rent, partly furnished, 2 to 4 bedrooms. £-2^ to £'i per month. J. J. G. Lewis, manager. Malvern. — Malvern House, Santa Cruz Mountains. 10^. per day, £2 2s. per week. Mrs. Lawrence, proprietor. Mandeville. — Brooks' Hotel. 10 to 14^-. per day, ;^3 to £^ los. per week. A. S. Lindo, proprietor. Mandeville. — The Grove Hotel. 10 to 12^. per day, £2^ 10s. per week. H. England, proprietor. Mandeville. — Newleigh Lodgings. 9^. per day upward, £2 10s. per week. Mrs. T. M. HalHday, proprietor. Mandeville. — Renfer Cottage Lodgings. 6s. per day, £2 2s. per week. Ann R. Hardy (Miss), proprietor. Mandeville. — Woodbine Cottage Lodgings. 6s. per day, £2 2s. per week. Miss Sarah F. Roy, proprietor. Mandeville. — Alexandria Villa Lodgings. 7^-. per day, £2 per week. Mrs. A. A. Alexander, proprietor. Milk River. — Milk River Baths Lodgings. $2.50 to $3 per day, 10 per cent, discount by the week. Mrs. Dent. Moneague. — Moneague Hotel. 126-. per day, £;^ 10s. per week. Moneague Hotel Company. A. N. Sutherland, secretary. Moneague. — The Lodgings. Ss. per day, £2 2s. per week. Miss Mary Ann Hutchinson, proprietor. Montego Bay. — Harrison's on the Hill Lodgings. 8s. per day, £1 los. per week. Miss Hannah Harrison, proprietor. Montego Bay. — Miss Payne's Lodgings, St. James Street. 8s. per day, £1 10s. per week. Miss Emily Payne, proprietor. Montego Bay. — Mrs. Jervis's Lodgings, Union Street. 6 to 8s. per day, £1 10s. to £2 IS. per week. Mrs. H. G. Jervis, proprietor. Montpelier. — Montpelier Hotel. 12^-. per day, £^ 10s. per week. John E. ElHs, proprietor. Port Antonio. — Titchfield Hotel. $3=00 to ^6 per day. United Fruit Company, proprietors. St. Ann's Bay. — Mrs. Mcintosh's Lodgings, Market Street. 10 to I2S. per day, 10 per cent, discount by the week. Mrs. Mcintosh, proprietor. Santa Cruz Mountains. — Longwood Lodgings. lo^-. per day, £5 to £6 per week. E. M. Nowra, proprietor. Santa Cruz Mountains. — Malvern House, Malvern, loi-. per day, £2 2s. per week. Mrs. Lawrence, proprietor. Spanish Town. — Hotel Rio Cob re. 12s. per day, £s per week. St. Catherine's Hotel Company. Agnes Preston, proprietor. Spanish Town. — Commercial Hotel, 36 Young Street. los. per day, ;^3 per week. Bertram Musgrove Andrade, proprietor. 90 Spanish Town. — -St. Alban Hotel, 25 Adelaide Street. 8>f. per day, £2 \os. per week. Bertram Musgrove Andrade, proprietor. Savanna-la-mar. — Phoenix House. 8 to \os. per day, £2 \os, to ^3 per week. Miss Anna Maria Vaz, proprietor. Savanna-la-mar. — Miss Franklin's Lodgings, Great George Street. \os. per day, £2 5^-. per week. Mrs. Jemima R. Franklin, proprie- tor. HOTEL TITCHFIELD W. C. DAVIS, Manager PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA Comfortable, clean rooms A?nerican sanitary plufnbi? Good beds First-class table Beautiful scenery Splendid drives over excellent roads No dust, no fies, no mosquitoes Best sea bathing in the IV est Indies Engage rooms through the United Fruit Company at their offices, — Boston, Philadelphia, or Baltimore, — or by cable. United Fruit Company {cable address, '''-Baker,'' Port Antonio), or by letter to the manager at Hotel Titchfield 91 Baltimore <£^ Jamaica Steamships I Barnstable ^ Brookline Leaving Baltimore every Wednesday at lO A.M. Round trip $60.00 Single trip 35-00 United Fruit Co., Bowley's Wharf, Baltimore, Md. 92 # Nathan Sherlock & Co. # I Limited I J METROPOLITAN HOUSE J "^ 08-100 Harbour Street, Kingston, Jamaica *" iSfcmml ©mpers ^ * * antr ©utfittera 1 ^ The latest Novelties in all departments received by every mail. ^ ^ Tropical Underwear, high-class Tweeds and Suitings. ^ ^ Suits made to order by experienced cutter and fit guaranteed. ^ ^ , f ^ BOOTS AND SHOES l|> 93 * Gardner's Tourist Agency } * # <:^ Call at Gardner's early and get all information about the island, ^ <^ the best places to visit and the best houses to stay at. ^ * ^ S SIDE TRIPS IN JAMAICA. Illustrated, is. ; post free, is. 2d. ^ ^ TOURIST GUIDE TO THE ISLAND. Illustrated. is. 6d. ; ^ "^ post free, IS. 9d. "^ <^ JAMAICA IN 1901. 6d.; post free, 8d. ^ <^ A SELECTION OF ANANCY STORIES. By Wona. is. 6d.; ^ ^ post free, is. 8d. ^ ^ JAMAICA COOKERY BOOK. is. 6d.; post free, is. 8d. ^ ^ BLACK JAMAICA. By W. P. Livingstone. 2s. 6d. ; post free, ^ "^ 2S. lod. "^ * f * MAPS f ^ A HANDY POCKET MAP. 3s.; post free, 3s. 2d. ^ ^ THE GOVERNMENT SURVEY MAP. Large. 12s. 6d. ^ ^ BICYCLE MAP. is. 6d. "^ * i ^ JAMAICA PROVERBS. An illustrated booklet. is. 6d. ^ "^ JAMAICA ALPHABET. Specially illustrated, zs; post free, ^ f ^^- ^^- t "^ JAMAICA POST CARDS. is. per dozen. Hand colored, ^ *^ 3s. per dozen. ^"^ "^ GARDNER'S DIARY TIME TABLE AND MONTHLY ^ ^ VADE MECUM. Price, id. ^ * t <» AT GARDNE R'S * 94 * Photographic Material <|t Aston W. Gardner & Co., yamaica 4- * #• ^^ Agents for the Eastman Kodak Com- ^_^ %^ pany and other leading manufacturers. ^^ <» ^ # c^ Visitors will find a full and fresh stock of .^ <^ FILMS, PLATES, P A PE RS, etc., etc. ^ %^ CAMERAS, KODAKS and ACCESSORIES # ^ At ASTON W. GARDNER & CO., '%' ^ Kingston and Montego Bay. % * MEMO. — Goods fresh by nearly every mail. A dark-room free for the use of Amateurs. Developing and printing carefully and expeditiously undertaken. * ■ * <^ THE BEST JAMAICA CIGARS ^ ^ a^^BLUEMOUNTAINCOFFEE "^ 95 M. E. CROASDAILE lo FORT GEORGE STREET PORT ANTONIO WAREHOUSE FOR JAMAICA PRESERVES, PICKLES, AND CURIOSITIES Levien & Sherlock Turtle Factory HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON, JAMAICA WESTINDIES 96 B. ^ J. B. MACHADO ''LA TROPICAL'' Cigar and Cigarette Manufacturers .... 86 Harbour Street, KINGSTON, JAMAICA 97 I A. DUPERLY & SONS I g^ (ESTABLISHED 1842) 2 93 King Street, KINGSTON, JAMAICA * * # * * <^ Honorable Mention Paris Exhibition, 1867 ^ <^ Gold Medal Jamaica Exhibition, 1891 ^ *^ Premo Cameras, Photographic Sundries, Photo ^^ "^ Mounts from Berlin, Develooing for Amateurs ^ * T <^ A FINE ASSORTMENT OF VIEWS OF THE ISLAND # * .4 ^ Developing and printing for Tourist ^ ^ Free dark-room for the use of Tourist ^ ^ Over 1,000 view^s of the Island to select from ^ ^ Charges very moderate ^ ^ OUR STUDIO IS OPENED TO VISITORS ^ 98 ATLAS TRUNKS ^^^^^^^^^^1fi^fi¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥ PO RTABLE! COMMODIOUS! WATERTIGHT! 26 inches, - _ _ 8s. 6d. 28 inches, - - los. 6d. 30 inches, - 12s. 6d. 32 inches, 14s. 6d. # ¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥¥ Aston W. Gardner & Co. United Fruit Company's . . . Steamship Lines UNITED STATES MAIL AND PASSENGER SERVICE ... TO ... litest Indies and Central and South America ... FROM ... BOSTON, NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, and BALTIMORE ... TO ... Banes and Sama, Cuba; Port Antonio, Port Morant, and Kingston, Jamaica; Puerto Plata, San Domingo; Santa Marta, Republic Colombia. ... FROM ... NEW ORLEANS, LA., and MOBILE, ALA., ... TO ... BELIZE, British Honduras, PUERTO BARRIOS, Guatemala, LIVINGSTON, Guatemala, PUERTO CORTES, Spanish Honduras, CEIBA, Spanish Honduras, TRUXILLO, Spanish Honduras, BLUEFIELDS, Nicaragua, RAMA, Nicaragua, PORT LIMON, Costa Rica, BOCAS DEL TORO, Republic Colombia. Connecting with all railroads to interior points. Steamships aggregate 69,987 tons, and include the fastest and best equipped twin-screw American steel ships in passenger service. For information respecting sailings apply at office of Company in NEW YORK BALTIMORE PHILADELPHIA BOSTON NEW ORLEANS, and MOBILE, ALA., by letter or in person. /Kingston , f/b h King's House ■« HopeGaracne v Kingsfdn ^ ConSranT Spring '^ SBnyHill^yvaiKhaffs (0 SmnyHlll-consranrSpr/ngs-HQpcGoad'King^m- II Kingefi>/?in a}n€rar7rSpr}ngs- ,3 Monca0L4&~Fx:rneulley-Oc^ro;5ios. ,4 Oc^o Qios -» Qoaring /=aHG ^afTroaa) iS Roaring fistts "^ St Jin 16 St Anns Bay -X> eunaway Bay: n QunaWay Bay 10 Fa/moi/7F7' IB Runaway Bay-D Browng^i^n= generally up OfPAOS ' QlSX^£:iSS' Birvwn^Jdyvn - SBwatrfs^wn - Faimoom ■■ Falmoi^tyi ~0 MorT^gd Bay: A/torT7&0o Bey 1& Lucgct ■■ MoriTe^a Bs^y 15 MonTporior-- ( Gar Shi^stHewcxxJ BsTa^ n 7& Mancieviile- 7 i/i/Hliegmsnoict- z>iru9 — Clarefieton , Moy p/^n ' KingsTon-ConsBnt Spirings^Cit&Jl^lon c Ca&riefon a? AnndnTa Bay -■ (-jn ~" ' Boiy lb Por^ ^rifonio' r-)C'^^^^ ^-, DEC 26 W02 015 819 992