rcxc ^H «« ^-«« -"dec c< Vc«? Z^^t c ex: -«e:c e e rccc rccv EDWIN -WILK INS- FIELD H7YMPSTE7YD AN OP THE TOWN & CASTJLE OB WARWICK; AND OF THK $tis$btmxm$ Spa LEAMINGTON? TO WHICH ARE ADDED. Short Notices of the Towns, Villages, &;c. WITHIN THE CIRCUIT OF TEN MILES. Intended principally for the Information of Strangers. Miratur, facilisque oculos fert omnia circum jEneas, capiturque locis ; et singula IebIus Exquiritque audWque virum monumenta priorum. ViRG. i©artoicft : PRINTED BY AND FOR H. SHARPE, ^nSfwaS* And Sold by Messrs. Rivington, St. PauV sChurch-Yard, London t and all other Booksellers. 1815. Ztfottti&tmmt THOUGH the principal object of the fol- lowing Work, as expressed in the Title Page, is, the information of Strangers, especially those resorting to the celebrated Spa of Leamington : y£t the Writer had another object in view — to whlch s he acknowledges, his hopes and his wishes were, with equal or greater ardour, directed. During his residence in Warwick, or Its im- mediate vicinity, he has often had occasion to witness the regret, which, he believes, has long been felt, that no work of the nature of the present has yet appeared, of easy access, and comprising, within a moderate com- pass, the information, that might be collected concerning a town of such remote antiquity, and so much early and present celebrity. The hope, he ventured to entertain, if supplying that deficiency, and of offering to the In- habitants of Warwick an acceptable present, the Writer is provd to own, has contributed more than any other A 2 consideration to animate his exertions, in the collection of his materials and the choice of his topics. Having re- sided amongst them, nearly the fourth part of a century, differing from many in certain political, and from more in certain religious opinions, which he conceives to be of no small importance — he would hold it most unjust and most ungrateful not to acknowledge the nu- merous instances of real candour and kindness, which he has verij generally received from them, during the whole course of that time. He has only to lament one striking exception, ivhich occurred long ago ; and which if still remembered with feelings of regret- — it is regret, he is sure, unaccompanied with the slightest resentment. Should the present attempt to lay before the Inhabitants of Warwick an Historical and Descriptive Account, tolera- bly complete, and in the main correct, of their ancient and interesting Town, and of other neighbouring places, be accepted by them, as some return for the great obli- gations, which their favo, able opinion and their kind and friendly civilities have conferred upon him ; the dearest ivish of the Writer will be accomplished, and his labours will obtain their best and most valued reward. Leam, Sept, \, 1815, ij^toucal anb Dcsfcriptiijc 3G«ount WARWICK, &c CHAP. I. <£arlp i^igtorp. | WARWICK founded by Gutheline — enlarged by Guiderius— 'destroyed ty the Picts — repaired by Car act a cm— fortified by the Romans — destroyed « second time by the Picts — rebuilt by Const ant ine — destroyed a third time bu the Pirts — rebuilt by Gwdyr — a fourth time destroyed by the Saxons — rebuilt by Warremund — disputed whether a Roman Station — a fifth time destroyed by the Danes — rebuilt, and the Castle founded by Ethelfieda — a sixth time destroyed by the Danes — rebuilt— fort ified t and the Castle strengthened by order of William I. — paved and improved by Guy de Beauchamp — its ancient Churches and Edifices enumerated — represented early in Parliament — incorporated — destroyed by Fire — rebuilt. VTUTHELINE, or, as he is otherwise called, Kimber- line, who was King of the Britons, about the Christian era, is said by Rous, the celebrated antiquary, himself a native of the place, to have been the FOUNDER of WARWICK.* Its name originally, according to him, was Caer-guthleo7i, and, by contraction, Caer-leon; from Caer, which signifies a city, and Giithlin, the name of its founder. He, also, asserts that the town was considerably enlarged and improved by Guiderius, another British King ; that it afterwards suffered greatly, during the wars of the Picts and Scots ; and that it continued in a ruinous condition, till it was rebuilt by Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early British Princes, who erected in it a manor-house for himself, and founded a church in the market-place, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. * ; 'i Reg. Aug!, p h:;, &c EARLY HISTORY Destroyed by the Picts— Rebuilt by Gwdyr — Made a Bishop's See. When this high-spirited but unfortunate prince, after a brave and vigorous resistance of nine years, was completely subdued by the power of the Roman arms, in the reign of the Emperor Claudius ; his general, Pub. Ost. Scapula^ A. D. 50. in order to secure his conquests, as we are informed by Tacitus, erected various fortifica- tions, on the rivers Avon and Severn ;■* one of which, there is considerable reason to believe, was at Warwick, as will be more distinctly stated in the sequel of this chapter. After its restoration and enlargement under the fostering cares of Caractacus, and the final secession of the Romans, from the whole Island in the year 426, Rous farther asserts that Warwick was again laid in ruins, during one of those sudden and frequent wars which usually mark the character of barbarous ages ; and that it was again rebuilt by Constantine, another British king, who called it Caer-Umber. Upon his death, it was a third time exposed to the desolating calamities of war ; and, from that period, continued in a ruinous state, till it was a third time, rebuilt by another British king, named Gwdyr, who called it after himself, Caer Gwar. About that period of its history, if the fact be sufficiently verified, Warwick was made a Bishop's see, by Dubre- tius, afterwards Bishop of St David's, who chose for his episcopal church, not St Johns, but another, AU Saints', which stood on the site, where the Castle was afterwards built. This season of its prosperity was, * however, short ; and the town was exposed to new and dreadful devastations, during the time of the Saxon * — - — cinctosque eastris Antomim et Sabrinam fiuvios cohikere parat. — Tac. Ann. lib.su. a. Si>. OF WARWICK. DestTWi/ed by the Saxons — Rebuilt by VSurremund — and calCd Warrcuyk. invasions. But when that warlike people had completely established themselves in the country, and had divided it into provinces, the Kingdom of Mercia was allotted to Warremund ; and by him the town was once more rebuilt, and was called, after his name, Warrewyk. In the time of the Anglo-Saxons, however, this town was certainly called werhica, as appears from the inscrip- tion on an existing and genuine Saxon penny,* of Harthacnut, minted at this place. It is also written in the Saxon Chronicle werinca, and w^ringwic, and the county is called wiERiNWiCKSHiRE.^ But to this account of the foundation and the subsequent events, in the early history of Warwick, as related by Rous, and recited with approbation by Dug- dale, some considerable objections have been opposed, by several antiquarians, and particularly by Dr. Thomas,|| the learned Editor of an enlarged edition of the Antiquities of Warwickshire, published in 1730. In his opinion, tho town was not of British but of Saxon origin ; and that it was ever a Roman station is a supposition utterly rejected by him. The facts, on which he principally relies, are, that no Roman antiquities have ever been discovered here*, and that, there was a military station, beyond all doubt^ at Chesterton, only six miles distant — whence it seems improbable that another should have been established, so near as Warwick. Upon the whole, however, not only * This curious coin, huherto unpublished, and as to the name of this town^ unique t is in the cabinet «f William Staunton, Esq. of Longbridge, near Warwick. § From w&ring, a mound or bulwark, and wyk, or wick, a town, the curved bank of 4 river, or a castle. Sax. Chron. p. 101. § bee Thomas' E-Jif. of Dwgdale, vol. i. p. 371. Ward's New Survey, p. 49.9' A % EARLY HISTORY Disputed whether a Unman Station — Destroyed by the Danes. Pugdale, but most of the great antiquarians, as Camden, Baxter, Stukeley, Salmon, and Bartlett,* admit as credible the account of Rous ; and assert not only that Warwick was originally a British town but that it was afterwards a Roman Station. This account, they think, is greatly confirmed by one of its ancient names, Caer- Gwar, derived, they say, from a British word, signifying prcesidium, a garrison : and is still further confirmed by the situation of the place— which is on a fine rocky elevation, such as was usually chosen by the Romans — on the banks of the Avon, where, Tacitus affirms several fortifications were actually erected — in the very center, ioo, of the island, like the Prcesidium in Corsica — and closely adjoining to the Fosse Way leading from Ciren- cester, and uniting with the great Roman Road, called Waiting Street. A situation so happily adapted to all the purposes of a military station, it may well be sup- posed, could scarcely be overlooked ;|| and some have even ventured to give it, as their opinion, that Warwick is the Prcesidium Romanorum, mentioned in the Notitia Imperii ;§ where, it is said, a cohort of Dalmatian horse was placed, under the immediate command of the Dux Britanniarum. But this last opinion, though supported by most of the great antiquarians, just enumerated, can * Cammn Gough's Ed. v. ii. p. 444. Baxter's British Antiquities. Stuke- ley's Iiin. Curios. II. i'O. Salmon's Surv. of the Rom. Stations, p. 489. Bartlett's Hist, and Ant. of Manceter, p. 6. J| Dr. Stukeley thought he discovered traces of an encampment, on the east side of the river, in a field opposite to the Castle. It. p. 20. § Not. Imp. Sectio. lxiii. «• Sub dispositione viri spectabilis ducis Britanniar-mr., Praefectus equitum Dalmatarum, Prajsidio." — Praesidium is not mentioned in the Itinera? y ©f Antoninus; but Mr. Ward and the learned Horseley suppose ilie Presidium of ihe Notitia to be the Praetorium of the Iter, and they fix the place of it, not at Warwick, But at Broughton, ill Lincolnshire, Nevr Survey, p. 493. Brit. Aut. 481. OF WARWICK. Repaired, and the Cast/e founded by Klke.tjleda. only be received, and indeed, is only given, as purely conjectural.* After the establishment of the Saxons in Britain, the town of Warwick continued peaceful and prosperous, till at length it was destroyed by the Danes. It speedily rose, however, to more than its former consequence, under the auspices of Ethelfleda, the accomplished daughter of the great King Alfred, and the inheritor,!] in a high degree, of her fathers genius and enterprizing spirit. By this Princess, who was married to Etheldred, Earl of Mercia, the town was completely repaired and considerably enlarged and improved : and by her, also, the foundation of the Castle was laid in 915; which soon became the residence of the reputed Earls § of those times, and proved of important consequence in securing the peace, not only of the town itself^ but of the whole surrounding country. Thus re-edified, enlarged, and embellished, by the cares of that active and spirited Princess, and defended by its newly-erected fortifications, Warwick enjoyed long and uninterrupted repose : till it was doomed once more to sustain dreadful injuries, from the incursions of the Danes, under Canute, in the year 10 lo\ This was * It is carious to observe how very far lue strength of confidence L9 sometimes suffer !/« > ' . - — — ■ — - — — — - — * Henrt V. 38 r. H HiBt. Reg. p. 203v OCCURRENCES. 13 1 , ■ 1 ■ .,...,., ■ ■ , 1 in.,,,,,,,, .i 1 ■ii..i. i m aggg— WM3— Round Tables — Gaveston beheaded at Black tow- HUt. according to Rous, was held with great splendour at Warwick) in the year 1281 ; when crowds of natives and foreigners flocked together, from all parts, to be present on the great occasion. That either this or ano- ther similar meeting was held here seems also probable, from the curious Compoti Roll\\ of the Collegiate Church, made in the 5th Edward IV. in which 20 shillings is accounted for " de Jirma cujusdam pastur' voc* le Rownde Table" It must be admitted, however, that a piece of ground might be called by the name of Round Table, without absolutely proving that an assembly of the kind in question was ever convened in that place. In the year 1312, Piers de Gaveston, the vain and haughty favourite of Edw. II. fell a victim to the envy and hatred, he had so vehemently and even justly ex- cited. Closely besieged by the Barons, in the Castle of Scarborough, whither he had fled for refuge, he was oblig- ed to capitulate, and surrendered himself into the hands of the Earl of Pembroke, on the faith of certain con- ditions which were afterwards, totally disregarded. From Scarborough, the unfortunate Gaveston was conveyed to Deddington Castle, near Banbury ; where, being pur- posely left in the custody of a feeble and faithless guard, he soon found himself assailed by Guy de Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwick, one of his most furious and implacable enemies. That nobleman, indeed, besides other causes of complaint in common with the rest of the Barons, had received a particular and personal affront, from the insolent favourite, who usually designated him, from his f| This ancient document is now in the possession of William Hamper, Esq. of Birmingham. It is beautifully written on paichraentj[2 ^ard» long and 12 inches wide. 14 REMARKABLE Order of St. Michael, celebrated at St. Mary'i swarthy complexion, by the name of the u black dog of Arden" On the 17th of June, the Castle of Deddington was suddenly attacked: little or no resistance was at- tempted ; the miserable captive was seized and carried to Warwick Castle ; whither the Earls of Lancaster, Here- ford, and Arundel, the heads of the party leagued against him, instantly repaired. After some consultations, it was agreed to put their prisoner to death, as a public enemy, without the slightest regard to the faith of express agree- ment, or to the forms established by law. Accordingly on the first of July, the wretched Gaveston was conducted to Blacklow Hill, about a mile from Warwick-, and there, in the presence of his cruel and relentless foes, who beheld the horrid spectacle with savage delight, his head was severed from his body.* Cut in the rock, near the summit of the hill, are still to be seen his name, and the year of his death : but the inscription is evidently of much later date than the event it records. In the year 1566, the Order of St. Michael, instituted in France, was, by special favour of Charles XI. conferred on two English noblemen, who had been selected for this high honour, by Queen Elizabeth herself; and of these, as might have been expected, one was her great favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. In the following year, this nobleman, resolved to gratify his piety or vanity by the celebration of that Order in the Collegiate Church of Warwick. On this occasion, the Bailiff and Burgesses were invited to attend the Earl : who, from the Priory, where at that time he lodged, * Dugdale's Bar. vol. ii. p. 44. Thomas's Dugdale's War w. p. 273. Hume vol. II. p. 336. Henry, vol. vii. p. 134, 6cc. OCCURRENCES. 15 Death qf'W. Parr — Visit of Queen Elizabeth. went in grand procession, accompanied by a numerous train of noblemen, and a vast concourse of people, to the Church ; and here, with solemn pomp and stately shew, the intended ceremony was performed. A circumstantial account of this ceremony., of which some further notice will be taken hereafter,* is preserved in a curious manu- script, called The Black Book, written by an eye witness, which is still in the possession of the Corporation, Shortly after the conclusion of this splendid ceremony, at which he had assisted, died suddenly, at the Priory, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, the brother of Catherine Parr, the last of the numerous Queens of Henry VIII. He was buried in the chancel ©f Warwick Church \ and the account of his funeral forms the second article in The Black Booh. A third and a more interesting article is an account of the visit of Queen Elizabeth " in her highnesse's person," to the town, which took place on Monday, Aug. 12, 1572. Her Majesty had dined that day, at the house of Edward Fisher, at Long Itching ton; whence, on account of the bad state of the direct road, through Teachhroke and My ton, she was obliged to travel round by Chesterton and Oakhy ; and, at a place, called Four (I Myl Hill, she was met, in due form, by the Bailiff and principal Burgesses, attended by Edward Aglionby, the Recorder, Mr. Griffyn, Master of Leicester Hospital \ and others. About three o'clock, her Majesty arrived at the spot, attended by Lady Warwick in the same coach ; and, in other carriages, by all her great officers of state, * See the Account of llie Priory, 16 remarkable: Itecorders spttcli to Queen Elizabeth. Lords Burleigh, Howard, and others, and by a long train of Lords and Ladies* The royal carriage then drew up as near as possible to the place, where the Bailiff and his company were all reverently kneeling, in their due order; the Bailiff first, behind him Mr. Griffyn, next the Re- corder, and then the twelve principal Burgesses. After a respectful pause, the Recorder began his oration, which, though he promised to be " short of speche," he was himself obliged at last to confess a cc lardge one." It opened with a learned allusion to the ancient Grecian and Roman panegyrical ; on which, however, he unintention- ally passes the severest censure, by observing that they were all alike commendatory, whether addressed to good or bad princes. He then speaks of the lofty stile proper for an address to a royal personage • and modestly excuses his own inability for the task assigned him. " The very lookes," he says, of such exalted persons as Alexander •the Great, Caius Marius, Octavius Caesar, " the wise King Henry VII." " the valiant King Henry VIIL" and finally, of her excellent Majesty, then present, must " appal the stout corages of their beholders." He hopes, therefore, to be excused, if he should be put " bothe out of countenance and out of remembrance.*' He then speaks of the " commendation, " that might be justly conferred on her highness herself, on the " rare vertues of her mynde," on the ce wealth of her domy- nyons," on the prosperous achievement of her noble affaires," — not forgetting that flattery, which, he knew, wonld most of all please,— on u the divyne giftes of her roial person." But these fruitful topics he declines, for fear of saying more than her " modest eares could abide." He then shortly details the history of " this towne of Warwik) " from early to later times, closing with an OCCURRENCES. 1 7 Answer of the Queen to the Recorder. acknowledgment of its great obligations to her grand- father, her father, her sister, and most of all, to herself. He next bestows high and just praises upon Ambrose, the good Earl of Warwick ; and praises, also, equally high, though not surely equally just, upon his detestable brother of Leicester; whose numerous and horrible crimes seem to have been totally lost to the view of that age, amidst the blaze of brightness, which his own splen- did charities, and the dazzling beams of royal favor threw around him. He then expresses his rejoicing, and that of the whole people of Warwick, u for that it has pleas- ed her to blesse them with her comfortable presence;" and concludes with offering a small present to her Ma- jesty, which he humbly hopes, she would condescend to receive, as Alexander was pleased " to accept a hand- full of water from a poore soldier of his," — finally, wishing her " a long and a prosperous reign, even to Nestor's years, if it so please God!" After this long oration, Robart Phillippes, ris- ing from his knees, approached the royal carnage : when, again bending in the same humble posture, he tendered to the Queen a purse, "very fairre wrought" containing twenty pounds, "all in souereignes"; which, alter some affected scruples, was condescendingly accepted, and the Bailiff had the honor of kissing her Majesty's hand. Mr. Aglionby had also the same honor ; to whom the Queen thus familiarly expressed herself: "Come hither, little Recorder; it was told me that youe wold be afraid to look upon me, or to speake boldly ; but you were not so fraid of me, as I was of youe, and I now thank you for putting me in mynde of my duety". Her Majesty next offered her grateful acknowledgments to the Burgesses, and c 18 REMARKABLE Baggage ! i .. . i mi l i n u i ji - i-i j i j i i n- ..' . ■ : i i Royal Procession to Warwick Castle. all the company present, and then expressed her wish to proceed. But further honors still awaited her ; Mr. Grif* fvn, the preacher, humhly advancing, craved permission, on his bended knees, to offer to her majesty a copy of Latin verses * which he had composed expressly for the occasion ; and which were, also, graciously received, though the Queen declined reading them at that time ; if, indeed, she ever did at all, as, froni the story, appears doubtful. The command was now given, and the whole procession moved forwards, in the following order. First the Bailiffs attendants led the way, 32 in number, dressed " in coates of puke " i. e. grey, " laid on with lace;" then, the 12 principal burgesses , "in gowns of puke, lyned with satten and damask, upon foote clothes ;* then, two Bishops followed; next the Lords of the Courts $il; and immediately before the Queens coach, were the Bailiff, arrayed in scarlet, on the right, and Lord Comp- ton, as Sheriff of the county, on the left. With this state, was her Majesty conducted to the Castle, where she continued the remaining part of Monday, and the whole of Tuesday. On Wednesday, she went, with- out her train of attendants, taking the road through the Priory grounds and the Wbodloes, to Kenilworth Castle, where she was sumptuously entertained by the Earl of Leicester, till Saturday. || On the evening of that day, she returned to Warwick Castle: and, on the following Sunday, dancing was exhibited for her amusement, in the afternoon ; and, in the evening, fire works. These last, which consisted principally of a sort of an attack upon two They may be seen in Bib. Top. Brit. No. xvir. This was three years before Iter far-famed entertainment there. OCCURRENCES. 19 f ■ ■ Visit of James 1. and William III. to Warwick. SSSmS m ■ '■ ■ ... temporary wooden forts, were attended with some serious accidents. A ball of fire fell on a cottage near the Bridge End, which was instantly reduced to ashes ; and its in- habitants, a poor old man and woman, were with difficulty saved. Two or three cottages adjoining were also des- troyed; and, by a similar accident, four houses in the town were burnt down. The next day, the Queen very graciously sent for the two poor aged sufferers into her presence ; and made them all the reparation which kind words, and a present amounting to about 25 ^£* could do. Whether the other sufferers, in consequence of these royal sports, received any recompence for the injuries they had sustained, does not appear. The ensuing week the Queen spent at Kenilworth, in the company of her favorite ; and on Saturday, returned by Charlecott, to London.* On the 4th of September, 1617, it appears that King James I. honored this town with his presence, and Sir Fulk Greville, then Chancellor of the Exchequer* with his company; by whom a magnificent entertainment was given in the hall of Lord Leicester's Hospital. An inscription, recording the event, is still to be seen in that halL But of this royal visit no further account has been discovered. In connection with this, though somewhat out of chronological order, we shall mention the honor of another royal visit which Warwick received from Will. III. in the month of November, 1695. It was then the eve of a general election, and by the advice of his ministers, in order to recommend himself to popular favor, of which that See " Q. Eliz. Progresses," by Nichols, C2 20 REMARKABLE great and glorious monarch never enjoyed a share equal to his extraordinary merits, he was induced to set out on a tour, through the country ; and to visit the seats of some of the principal nobility. After having witnessed the di- versions of Newmarket^ he honored with his company the Earls of Sunderland, Northampton and Montague ; and afterwards went to Wetbeck, the seat of the Duke of Newcastle, Thence he proceeded to Warwick ; and took up his residence at the Castle, which was at that time the seat of Fulk Lord Brooke, posthumous son of the accomplished and patriotic Robert Lord Brooke, who was killed at the siege of Liclifield. From Warwick, the king proceeded to Eye Fort, the seat of the Duke of Shrews- bury ; and, after having visited the university of Oxford, returned to London.* During the unhappy contest between Charles I. and his Parliament, Warwick Castle was regarded as a for- tress of great importance, both from its own strength, and from the situation of it, in the centre of the kingdom. Its noble proprietor, Robert Greville, Lord Brooke, was one of the most active and zealous supporters, on the side of the Parliament and the people : and, by his powerful influence, he carried with him, to the same side, almost the whole of the county. In the months of June and July, 1642, under the authority of a parliamentary commission, he assembled the militia of Warwickshire and Staffordshire: and, as his presence was necessary in London, for the purpose of procuring arms and ammunition, he left Sir Edward Peto, of Chesterton, governor of the Castle, in his absence. f Smollett, vol. i. p. 366, OCCURRENCES. 21 Skirmish, near Southam — Warwick Castle besieged. Returning from the metropolis with a train of artillery, he was met, at Edgehill, by the Earl of Northampton, at the head of a considerable force. Both parties prepared for action ; but, to prevent the effusion of blood, it was at length agreed that Lord Brooke should retire to Ban- hury with his artillery, and that neither party should attempt to remove it thence, without the previous notice of three days. On the faith of this agreement, Lord Brooke went again to London, when instantly the Castle of Banbury was surprized by the Earl of Northampton, and the artillery carried off. The Earl then advanced to Warwick ; and immediately summoned the governor of the Castle to surrender. On his refusal, the siege began 1 * Aug. 7* an d was continued till Aug. 23, when Lord Brooke marched once more from London, at the head of a powerful body : and, between Southam and Ichington, within 5 miles of Warwick, found himself once more op- posed by the Earl of Northampton. A skirmish ensued, which terminated to the advantage of Lord Brooke. The Earl of Northampton retired towards the north ; the siege of the Castle was raised ; and Lord Brooke entered it, to the great joy of the garrison, who, with slender provision, had defended the place for a whole fortnight. The hooks, upon which wool sacks were suspended, as a means of protecting the walls, during this siege, are still to be seen over the principal gateway of the Castle. About the end of September, in the same year, when Lord Brooke w r as still at the Castle, the Earl of * A curious account of this brave defence of Warwick Castle by Sir Edwa rd Peto, is contained in a small tract printed in 1642, entitled •* True and new Newes from War. wick Castle, with a True Relation of Sir Edwakd Pbto's bunging out bis winding sheet and the Bill- in hh Colours at Warwick Castle-" 22 REMARKABLE =£ Battle of Edge Hill. Essex arrived, at the head of the parliamentary troops ; and the two commanders immediately advanced, with their united forces, into Worcestershire, in quest of the royal army ; which, however, had turned aside towards Shrews* bury, and was then making its way from that town into Warwickshire. The Earl of Essex prepared to follow it ; whilst Lord Brooke hastened back to Warwick, to forward Some supplies that were necessary. He arrived, accord- ingly, at the Castle, Oct. 22 ; and, on the following day, sent from its magazines several cart-loads of arms and ammunition to the army ; which, in the mean time, had followed the royal forces as far as Kineton, two miles from Edgehills* On that day, Sunday, Oct. 23, 1642, was fought, in a vale at the foot of those hills, the first pitched battle between the forces of the King and those of the Parlia- ment. Whilst resting with his army at Egeat, a village on the borders of Northamptonshire, in the middle of the preceding night, intelligence from Prince Rupert had been received by the king, that the enemy's forces were within a few miles ; and it was in consequence immediately re- solved to give them battle the next day.§ But so little prepared was either party for the encounter, that it was not till 3 o'clock in the afternoon that the battle began. After an equal display of courage, attended with various success on both sides, the night separated the combatants. The following day neither party discovered any inclination to renew the contest; and, towards the evening, both retired from the field. * Clakendon's Hist, of the Rebellion, vol. ii. p. 44. § Edmonson's Account oi the Grerille Family, p, 9J. OCCURRENCES. 23 Ketreat of the Purliamcnt Army to Warwick. In the early part of this battle, Lord Brooke was not present. Setting out from Warwick, on the very day on which it was fought, the first intelligence he received of it, was on the road, from the crowds, who had been put to flight by the charge of the king's horse. Upon many he prevailed to return ; and, proceeding with all possible expedition, he arrived time enough to render considera- ble assistance to his party. In the evening of the fol- lowing day, Lords Essex and Brooke marched with their whole army towards Warwick ; where they remained some time, to refresh themselves, and to prepare for new encounters. These appear to be the principal events, in which the history of the Civil War connects itself with that of the Town and Castle of Warwick. 24 HISTORY OF THE Rohand — Guy — Reynburn, fyc. CHAP. III. i^igtorp of tf>c €arl£ of 3©artokft* Saxon Earls— Rohand— Guy— Reynburn — Wogeat — Ufa — Wolgeat — Wigod — Alwine—Tur chill — De Newburgs — Henry — Roger — William — Wale- ran — Henry — Thomas — John de Plessites — William Manduit — Beau- champs — William — Guy — Thomas — Thomas — Richard — Henry — Ne- ville — Richard — Plantagenets — George- — Edward — Dudleys— John — Ambrose — Rich — Robert — Robert — Robert — Charles — Robert — lid- ward — Edward Henry — Grevilles — Fulk — Robert — Francis — Robert — jPm Ik — Fulk — William — Fra ncis — G eorge. XN connection with the history of Warwick Castle, which forms of course a leading object in the present work, it will be proper to give some brief notices of its noble pos- sessors : and this is what we shall now attempt, beginning with the earliest, and proceeding to the latest times. I. €%&$ of t$e d&axon Ulace* Of the reputed Earls of the Saxon race, little is related, worthy of credit. The first whose name is re- corded is Rohand, a successful warrior, in the days of Alfred. His only daughter was Felicia, married, as the story tells, to the famous Guy, who, in her right, became Earl of Warwick. This renowned champion is said to have been the son of Siward, Baron of JVallingford, Yet the Welch EARLS OF WARWICK. 25 Guy's Combat with the Danish Champion* claim the honor of numbering him, amongst their own heroes of British extraction. According to vulgar belief, he was of gigantic height, exceeding nine feet. Amongst other instances of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant, in single combat; and killed, with his own arm, a wild boar, a dun cow of enormous size, and even a green dragon. * Some very old histories of Guy speak of the dragon, but omit the circumstance of colour. The Saracen Giant, above mentioned, was Col- i*rand, chosen by the Danish invaders as their champion to decide the contest between them and the English, ac- cording to the proposal made to Athelstan, the Saxon monarch, and accepted by him. The celebrated Gu\ ? returning from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, at that instant, arrived in England. Pointed out to the king, it is said, by an angel in a dream, as the chosen hero of England, tho' disguised in the habit of a pilgrim, he was entreated to accept the challenge, and finally consented* On the day of battle, the two champions appeared, fully accoutred, in the appointed field, near Winchester. Col- brand was so heavily armed, that his horse could scarcely support his weight. Soon after the first encounter, the giant cut off the head of Guy's horse. But, in a fresh attack, as Colbrand was stooping to take up his sword, of which he had lost hold, Guy seized the favorable opportunity, and, with one mighty blow, struck off his right hand. Yet the giant continued to fight with the other hand till, in the evening, faint with the loss of blood, he was obliged to yield ; and the English hero was * See the Legend of Guy E. of Warwick.— Sro alio in Dodslei's Rcliquts nf Ancient I»g, Poetry, ** A Pleasant Song of the valiant Deed* of Sir Guj of Warwick/* D 26 HISTORY OF THE Guys Armour preserved — Truth of his Story disputed. ■ =^=^ i i — — ■ .,, declared victorious. After the battle, Guy first made himself known, under an oath of secrecy, to the Saxon monarch; and then retired to Guys Cliff, near Warwick; where he lived the life of a hermit, without discovering himself even to his wife Felicia, who resided at the Castle, till near his death, which happened in 929, Colbrand's battle axe was formerly preserved in Winchester Cathedral. Guy's armour, so called, still remains ; and is to be seen, as well as the vertebrae of thQ Wild Boar, and the ribs of the Dun Cow, in the PorterV Lodge, at the entrance of Warwick Castle — as will be distinctly noticed hereafter. One of the rooms of the castle was formerly adorned with arras, in which the story of the battle was represented. This suit of arras, together with the armour of the great champion, was, for many generations, bequeathed, as an heir-loom, in the family of the Beauchamps, and other Earls of Warwick; and in the reign of Henry VIII, the custody of the sword was granted by patent to William Hoggeson, yeo- man of the buttery, with a salary of 2d. per day. The story of Guy, as above recited, is received as true by several authors of high celebrity, as Rous, Leland, Camden, Heylin, and Dugdale ;* yet, it must now be added, that many great and weighty, even insurmountable objections, have been opposed to its credibility, particularly in a memoir by Dr. Pegge, read to the Society of Anti- quaries, May 7? 17°Yj to which we must refer the curious reader. § Upon the whole, that there was a renowned warrior, of the name of Guy, of large size and great * Lei. ltin. iv. 63— Camd. Brit. Col. 143. Heyltn's History of St. George, p. 65. Pugpalb, p. 183, § Biblioth. Togopr. Britan. No. xviu EARLS OF WARWICK. if Successors of Guy — Origin of " the Bear and Ragged Staff'* prowess, living in the Saxon times, the fair and reasonable enquirer will, probably, not be disposed to deny ; but that he was Earl of Warwick^ he will hesitate to admit ; and the account of his combat with the Danish Giant, and most of the other wonderful accounts related of him, he will certainly reject, with decided conviction, as the tales of monkish delusion or imposture. Of the reputed successors of Guy, in the Earldom of Warwick, (if he ever attained that dignity,) so little is known, that a bare enumeration of their names may here be thought sufficient. The first is said to have been Reyn- burn, in the reign of Athelstan ; the second Wegeat, in that of Edgar ; the third Ufa, in that of Edward the Martyr ; the fourth Wolge at, in that of Ethelred ; the fifth Wigod, in that of Edmund ; the sixth Alwyne, in that of Edward the Confessor; and the last, Turchill, of whom some notice has already been taken.* We shall only subjoin, here, the account, which Rous has given, of the origin of the device, a bear and ragged staff, adopted by the Earls of Warwick, as ensigns of their dignity, from the earliest periods. The former, he says, was taken from the name of one of the British Earls of Warwick, Arthal, which signifies in the British language a Bear: and, when another British Earl, named Morvi, had vanquished a giant in a duel, with a young tree plucked up by the roots, and stripped of its branches, in token of that event, to the bear was added the ragged staff. This badge of distinction, adopted by many of the successive families, was re-assumed by the first of the present Earls, Francis Greville, in the year 1760. iee page 6. D2 28 HISTORY OF THE 1 sag Henry — Roger — William — Waleran de Newburg. -■'--,■■ " ' w . II. f mmlp of t$e $eto6ut0&* Henry de Newburg was the first Earl of Norman extraction. With that dignity, he received from the Congiueror the Castle, the Manor, and the Royalty of the Borough, then vested in the Crown. It was by him that Wedgnock Park was begun, and the Priory founded. He- died 1123* Roger de Newburg, his eldest son and successor, was one of the witnesses to the laws of St. Stephen, and one of the supporters of Maude, against that King. By him the Priory was completed, and St* Marys made a Collegiate Church. By him, also, the Hospital of St. Michael, for Lepers, in the Salsford, and the House of the Templars, ne^v the Bridge, were founded. He was greatly distinguished by his piety, displayed, according to the pre- vailing notions of the times, in large donations to religious houses, and frequent visits to the Holy Land. He died* happy in the high reputation he had acquired and de- served, 1153. William de Newburg, his eldest son, was the third EarL He founded two Hospitals in Warwick, St- JohfLS and St. Thomas* ; and built and endowed a Church for the Templars. He died Ajz the Holy Land, 1184. Waleran de Newburg, brother of William, was the fourth Earl. He died 1205. Henry de Newburg, his eldest son, the fifth * Iu sketching these short biographical notices, great use has been made of Edmonsoh's " Account of the Greville Family;" to which work recourse may be had by those, who wish for more particular accounts, or for references to the proper; authorities. EARLS OF WARWICK. 29 Henry — Thomas de Newburg — John de Plessetis — William Mauduit. Earl, was attached to the part of King John in all his contests with the Barons. He died 1229. Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, died without issue, 1242, leaving Margery, his sister, heir to the Earldom, who was married to John de Plessetis, a Norman, and the distinguished favorite of Henry III. John de Plessetis took upon himself the title of Earl of Warwick, in right of his wife ; and afterwards received from the King, the title of Comes Warwici. He died 1262, without issue. His Countess was beneficent; and among other acts of charity, bestowed upon the poor of Warwick, a Common Pasture, called Clay Pits, on the west side of the Town. William Mauduit, grandson of Waleran, by his daughter Alice, succeeded as the next heir to the Earklom. He was one of the adherents of Henry III. in his wars with the Barons ; and was surprized in his Castle at Warwick, by John Giffard, Governor of Kenilworth Castle, The walls of his Castle were destroyed from tower to tower; himself and his Countess were carried prisoners to Kenilworth ; and he was obliged to pay for his ransom 1900 marks. He died without issue 1267 ; leaving as heiress, Isabel, his sister, who was married to William de Beauchamp, Baron of Elmley, in Worcestershire. III. jfamilp of tf)e 25eaucl)amp£* At the time of the conquest, the Beauchamps were considered as one of the principal Norman Families. They received from their royal master, on his advancement to the 30 HISTORY OF THE '■ " f ! ■■ ' " \ William — Guy — Thomas de Beauchamp. English Throne, great addition of power and possession ; and still greater accrued to them from the marriage of William, one of the family, to Isabel, in her own right Countess of Warwick. It appears, however, that Isabel had previously taken the monastic vow ; and that neither she, /nor her husband, according to the custom of the times, assumed the dignity to which they were entitled. William de Beauchamp, their eldest son, there- fore, even in the lifetime of his parents, received the title of Earl of Warwick. He was greatly distinguished by the eminent services, which he rendered to his country, in various civil and military employments, for 26 years, in the reign of Edward I. He died 1298, and was buried in the Chapel of Worcester Cathedral, where his tomb still remains. Guy de Beauchamp, his eldest son, succeeded to the Earldom. At the battle of Falkirk he obtained high distinction, and received, for his reward, by royal grant, large possessions in Scotland. It was this Earl who seized the person of Gaveston, the royal favourite, and caused him to be beheaded on Blacklow Hill. Though he afterwards obtained the King's pardon, he was never again received into favor. He died, as some say, by poison, 1315. Thomas de Beauchamp, his eldest son, besides other high and important offices, was created Sheriff of Warwickshire 8$ Leicestershire for life, and Earl Marshal of England. He attended the king in his Scottish and French wars ; and was one of the commanders under the Black Prince, who led the van of the English army in the EARLS OF WARWICK. 31 The second Thomas de Beaucfutmp. celebrated battle of Cressy ; and greatly distinguished himself, also, in the equally celebrated battle of Poictiers. He afterwards attended Prince Edward, in an expedi- tion against the Infidels to the Holy Land. His ardor, however, for military achievements abroad, did not pre- vent his attention to the welfare of his own country, and particularly to the improvement of his paternal abode and his native town. He rebuilt the Avails of the Castle, which in Earl Maiidaifs time had been demolished ; added strong gates ; and fortified the entrance, with em- battled towers. He founded, also, the choir of the Col- legiate Church; built a Booth Hall, in the Market-place; and made the town toll-free. His last exploit was; an ex- pedition for the relief of the English army, reduced to the greatest difficulties before Calais ; in which, he completely succeeded. But here his career of glory was suddenly arrested ; and, by a fever, he was brought to the grave, 1370. His body was conveyed to his native town, and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, where his tomb still remains, with his effigy and that of his countess, who died before him, admirably executed in white marble. He had seven sons, and ten daughters, whose port? aits were formerly to be seen in the windows on the south side of the chancel of the same church ; but they have long since disappeared. Thomas de Beauchamp, the second son, in conse- quence of the previous death of his elder brother, Guy, succeeded as heir to the earldom. He was appointed by the Parliament, governor to Richard II. during his minority : and was ever after highly and honorably distinguished by a firm opposition to the unjust and impolitic measures of his unworthy favorites. Dismissed, with the rest of his great 32 HISTORY OF THE The second Thomas — Richard de Beauchamp. * - : . sassssaasssBir officers, from the court, when the young king assumed the government, the Earl of Warwick retired to his Castle ; where he spent some years, occupied in building and other improvements, suited to the extent of his fortune and the liberality of his spirit. By him, the noble tower at the north-east corner was built, and called, in honor of the Saxon hero, Guy's Tower, By him, also, the body of St. Marys Church, in 1314, was completed. But though peaceful and retired, occupied only in works of public utility ; he was still an object of resentment to the king. The misguided monarch had already effected the death of his uncle, the Duke of Gloucester ; and he now formed designs against the life of his late Governor. Invited to a royal feast, his person was seized ; and, by a servile parliament, sentence of death was pronounced upon him. At the solicitation of the Earl of Salisbury, the sentence was afterwards changed, to that of forfeiture of title and estate, and banishment to the Isle of Man. Thence, however, he was soon brought to London, and committed a close prisoner to the Tower ; where he remained till the Revolution, which placed Henry IV. upon the throne, happily restored him to his liberty, and to all his lost rights. He died 1401, and was buried with his countess, in the south part of St. Mary's Church. Their monument was destroyed by the great fire ; but their portraits, engraven on a brass plate, were recovered, and placed against the wall near the same spot. Richard de Beauchamp, the only son and suc- cessor of the late Earl, was one of the most considerable personages of the age, in which he lived. He was made Knight of the Bath, at the coronation of Henry IV ; and was engaged in almost all the principal transactions EARLS OF WARWICK. Henry de Beauchamp, Duke of Warwick, King of the Isle of Wight. of his reign. In 1408, he visited the Holy Sepulchre, followed by a splendid retinue. Besides other honours, he was created Earl of Albemarle, expressly as a reconi- pence for his bravery at the sieges of Caen, Rouen, and other places. In 1418, he successfully negociated a treaty of marriage, between Henry V. and Catherine daughter of Charles VI. By the will of that prince, he was appointed governor to his infant son, Henry VI. ; and, on the death of the Duke of Bedford, was called to succeed him as Regent of France. He died at the Castle of Rouen, 1439 ; and, according to his directions, his body Avas brought over to England in a stone coffin, and placed before the altar in St. Marys Chancel; till the chapel, began by himself, should be completed, to which his re- mains were then to be removed, and where a stately monument was to be erected to his memory. All this was done by his executors ; and the monument, finely executed, is still in good preservation. Amongst other acts of liberality, this nobleman rebuilt the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene at Guy's Cliff ; established a Chantry there ; and erected the statue of the famous Guy, which still remains. Henry de Beauchamp, the eldest son of Richard, at the age of 14, became Earl of Warwick; and soon obtained the highest place in the favor of the reigning monarch ; who heaped upon him, with lavish hand, all the honors which royalty had to bestow. He was first created premier Earl of England ; then Duke of War- wick ; and, finally, with unheard-of extravagance, was declared and crowned King of the Isle of Wight. But all his honours could not secure him from an early grave. He died 1445^ at the age of 22, in his Castle of Hanky, E 34 HISTORY OF THE i. ' i v. Richard Neville, the Stout Earl of Warwick. 1 i ■ r Worcestershire : and was buried in the Abbey Church of Tewkesbury, near the tomb of Edward, son and heir of Henry VI. He married Cicely, daughter of Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury. By her he had only one daughter, who died in her infancy; and thus her aunt Ann became the heir to the Earldom, and the great inhe- ritance of the family. IV. f mtrilp of $etriHe* Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, grandson ©f Ralph Earl of Westmoreland, and Joan daughter of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, married Ann, sister to the late Duke Henry ; and, in right of his wife, assumed the title of Earl of Warwick, which was after r wards confirmed by letters patent. He is known, in Eng- lish history, by the name of the i( Stout Earl, or the King Maker." " He was the greatest, as well as the last," says Hume, u of those mighty Barons, who formerly 06 over-awed the Crown, and rendered the people inca- " pable of any regular system of government ."* In the beginning of the dispute between the houses of York and Lancaster, he took the side of the former ; and was the means of placing the Earl of March upon the throne, with the title of Edward IV. Constantly engaged in all the violent contests and intestine wars of these unhappy times; at length, April 14, 147.1, he was slain, in the battle of Barnet, fighting at the head of his soldiers, in favor of Henry VI. whom, a few years before, he had dethroned. He was buried with his ancestors at Bisham, Berks. He left two daughters, his only issue : Isabel married to George Duke of Clarence ; and Ann married, Humk ▼. iii. p. 182. EARLS OF WARWICK. 35 George Plantagenet — Edaard tlantagenet. first to Edward Prince of Wales, and next to Richard Duke of Gloucester, afterwards King Richard III. His Countess, who survived him many years, being despoiled of all her estates, lived and died in the greatest privacy and distress. Once, indeed, for a moment, she was re- called from her obscurity, and re-instated in the possession of her family inheritances. But this was only for the cruel purpose of making her the instrument of transferring, with some shew of legal form, the whole of her immense estates to the Crown ; which was accordingly done, by special deed, in the 3d of Henry VII. V. 3famtfp of plantagenet George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- sequence of his marriage with Isabel, eldest daughter of Richard Neville, was created Earl of Warwick, by his brother Edward IV. His chief residence was at Warwick Castle. Here he projected vast plans of enlarging and improving both the town and the castle, some part of which he accomplished ; the rest was prevented by his death. Having incurred the suspicion of his brother, he was sent to the Tower ; attainted by the Parliament of high treason , and, according to his own strange choice of the mode of death, was drowned in a butt of malmsey.* He was buried near his dutchess, who died of poison, not long before. Edward Plantagenet, son of George, succeeded to the Earldom of Warwick. Unfortunate almost from * So the story of his death is to!d by Humi, Rapin, and most of tho modern Hiitoriani. But the account »er mi to depend chiefly, if not entirely, on tha evidence of Fabias; who lived, indeed, at the time, but was then very young. The other coa- teoipoiary Historiam say only that he was privately exqputed in the Tower. E 2 36 HISTORY OF THE ""r— jM . - ,. .. '-j ■ t mm John Dudley — Ambrose Dudley. his birth, he was nursed* and lived the greatest part of his short life, in a prison. During the reign of his uncle Rich. III. he was confined at the castle of Sheriff Hutton, \\\ Yorkshire ; and after the death of that prince, in the Field of Bosworth, he was removed by Henry VII. to the Tower of London. Here, his sufferings were of no long duration. He was accused, upon the most frivolous pre- tences, of entering into the conspiracy of Perkin War- beck ; and* in the 25th year of his age, was beheaded on Tower-hill, 1499, After his death, the title of Earl of Warwick lay dormant, 48 years. VI. f amilp of 2DitfcIep* John Dudley, Lord Viscount Lisle, was a des- cendant of the eldest daughter of Richard Reauchamp, Earl of Warwick, His father, for his oppressions and extortions, had suffered decapitation, in the reign of Hen. VIII. The son was, however, soon afterwards restored in blood ; created, first, Lord Viscount Lisle ; then Earl of Warwick ; and, finally, raised to the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. Rut, after the death of his royal master, Henry VIII. failing in an attempt to elevate to the throne, Lady Jane Grey, wife of his son, Lord Guildford Dudley, he was beheaded 22d August, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, son of John, who had been restored in blood, was in 1557, created Viscount Lisle, and Earl of Warwick ; and at the same time, obtained a grant of the castle, manor, and borough of Warwick, together with other estates, which, in consequence of his father's attainder, had escheated to the Crown. He died in 1589^; and was buried in the Beauchamp Chapel, where a noble monument, erected to his memory, still EARLS OF WARWICK. 37 Robert — Robert— Robert Rich. 1 remains, in excellent preservation. He married three wives; but left no issue ; and thus the title became a second time extinct. One title, however, belongs, by universal consent, to this nobleman, which, if justly bestowed, must for ever remain; and which, if men were truly wise, would always be regarded as the highest and most enviable of all — that of the Good Earl of Warwick. VII. familpofiSicft. Robert Lord Rich, was the first of this family, who, in the year l6l8, by the favor of James I. received the title of Earl of Warwick. But he did not long enjoy his new dignity ; within only a few months after his elevation to it, he died. Robert, his eldest son, succeeded him. He was created Lord High Admiral of England ; but, though not destitute of abilities, he displayed little knowledge of naval affairs. He was a man of sprightly gaiety, of varied and pleasing conversation; and possessed, in a high degree, the charms of agreeable and fascinating manners. Under much affected piety, he endeavoured to conceal still more real profligacy ; and though he was considered in that age, as the head of the godly party, his real place, it is feared, must be fixed amongst the irreligious and the licen- tious. He died, l658. Robert, his eldest son, who became the next Earl, enjoyed his title and honors only one year ; and died, without male issue, 1659. Charles, his brother, as next heir, succeeded to the earldom. His only son was married to Frances, 38 HISTORY OF THE Robert — Edward — Edward Henry Rich — Fulk Greville. youngest daughter of Oliver, Lord Protector : but died before his father. Robert, Edrl of Holland, cousin of Charles, was the next Earl. He died 1689. Edward, his son, succeeded to the title and honors of Earl of Warwick and Holland, and died 1701. Edward Henry, the last of the Earls of this family, dying without issue, 17^9, the title of Earl of Warwick, became a third time extinct. VIII. familp of tf>e 45wtifle& Of the families, which sprung from that of the Beauchamps, the ancient Earls of Warwick, all of which either are now extinct or have transferred, by heiresses, their estates and honors to other families, few have been more considerable than that of Alcester and Powyke ; from an heiress of which, the present family of the Grevilles are descended. Sir Fulk Greville, the first of the family who was ennobled by the title of Lord Brooke, was born 1554. Of the same age with his cousin, the highly- distinguished Sir Philip Sidney, they were educated together, at a school in Shrewsbury. Fulk Greville, thence removed to Oxford ; and, soon afterwards, to Cambridge. He then travelled abroad, for some years ; and, at length, returned home, the well informed and greatly accomplished gentleman. Introduced by his uncle, Robert Greville, at the Court of Queen Elizabeth. EARLS OF WARWICK. 39 Fulk Greville, first Lord Brooke. he was soon regarded as a person of extraordinary merit ; and was successively advanced to several high and honorable employments. Himself a man of letters,* and a lover of the arts, he diligently cultivated the acquaint- ance of most of the learned men and ingenious artists of his time. But he especially devoted himself, with fervent admiration, and fond aifection to his cousin, Sir Philip Sidney ; whose intimate associate he was, from his earliest years. After his death, he endeavoured to perpetuate the memory of their mutual esteem and attachment, by writ- ing his life, which was printed in l652 ; and, on his own tomb, by his own direction, it was recorded that he regarded the friendship of that great and excellent man, as the chief honor and happiness of his life. In l6oi ? he obtained from Queen Elizabeth, the grant of Wedge- nock Park; and, from her successor, James I. that of Warwick Castle, and its immediate dependencies. The castle, he found in a ruinous condition. Its towers and strong holds were employed as the common gaol of the county. But at the expence of upwards of ^20,000. he repaired and adorned it ; and made it tbe seat of his family. He also purchased the adjoining grounds, and formed in it stately and extensive plantations. — Though in his own right, he possessed the claim to nobility, as the heir of Robert Willoughby, Lord Brooke; yet, to remove all ground of dispute, he accepted letters patent, in the reign of James I. by which he was advanced to the dignity of a Baron, with the title of Lord Brooke, Baron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in the county of Warwick. — But a life of honor and usefulness, was terminated * Besides " The Life of Sir P. Sidxky " she following works written b\ him, were published. — « ffistory of lint Five Yt&ra of Jam El I." 1G4S, mid " The Remains \>f Foik Lofio Brooks," 1670. 40 HISTORY OF THE Robert Greville, second Lord Brooke. -^mmmmmmmmmmmmmm^mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Sept. 8, 1628, by a calamitous death. He was stabbed by bis own servant, whom he had displeased ; and who, immediately afterwards, killed himself. He was buried in the Chapter-house, on the north side of St. Mary's Church ; where his monument, erected by himself, with its remarkable inscription, is still to be seen. Robert Greville, son of Fulk Greville, of Thorpe Latymer, in Lincolnshire, Esq. adopted in his in- fancy, by his cousin, the first Lord Brooke, succeeded to hi9 honors and estates. He soon afterwards married Cathe- rine Russel, eldest daughter of Francis Earl of Bed- ford. The political principles, imbibed in his earliest youth, and confirmed by his intimate connection with the Bedford family, taught him to regard civil and religious liberty as the first of national blessings; and inspired him with sorrow and disgust, at the measures pursued by the Court, in the unhappy reign of Charles I. He in consequence formed a design of removing to America in company with Lord Viscount Say and Sele ; and a settlement was formed for their reception in New England, to which was given the name of Sayhrooke. But when a spirit of opposition to the arbitrary government, which oppressed his native country, broke forth, he determined to remain, and to exert all his influence in support of its rights and liberties. He took, accordingly, the side of the Parliament, as already mentioned ; * and proved him- self a firm and powerful supporter of their cause. After the Battle of Edge-hill, he was appointed Commander-in- Chief of the associated counties of Warwick and Stafford. In the former of these counties all opposition to him * See page 20—23. EARLS OF WARWICK. 41 Francis— Robert Greville — third and fourth Lord "Brooke. soon ceased ; and he hastened to dislodge Lord Ches- terfield from his position at Lichfield. At the head of 1,200 horse and foot, he speedily drove his enemy from the town, into the close of the Cathedral ; and this place he instantly prepared to assault. But, whilst he was in the act of looking out of the window of a house, in order to give some directions, he was shot in the right eye, by a bullet; and immediately died, March 1, 1 642— leaving behind him a character for talents, for courage, and for many great and amiable qualities, which his friends have ever affectionately admired, and which even his adversaries have candidly acknowledged, and impartially applauded.* He left issue by his wife, five sons, Francis, Robert, Edward, Algernon, and Fulke ; of whom the third and fourth died early, and the other three succeeded to the title. Francis Greville, the eldest son of Robert, was the third Lord Brooke ; but enjoyed his dignity only a few months. He died unmarried, 1642. Robert Greville, the second son, succeeded his brother as Lord Brooke. He was one of the six Peers sent to Charles II. in Holland, by the House of Peers, to present their humble petition that his majesty would be pleased to return. He was appointed Lord Lieutenant of the county of Stafford, High Steward of Stafford, and of Stratford-on-Avon ; and in the new Charter granted to the Corporation, was constituted Recorder of Warwick. * Dugdale's Bar. v. ii. p. 443. Clarendon, v. it. p. 149. Baxter's Saints' Rest, p. 82, 33. Edit. 1649. Milton'* Prose Wo:ks, v. i. p. 133. Ma- e*eLEY, v. iii. p. 414. Wood's Ath. Oxon, F 42 HISTORY OF THE Fulke — Fulke — William— fifth, sixth, and seventh Lord Brooke. He contributed much to the embellishments of the Cos- tie, and fitted up magnificently its suite of State Apart- ments. He died at Bath, l6?6 7 leaving no male issue. Fulke Greville, his youngest brother, succeeded to his title and estates. On the renewal of the Charter, he was appointed Recorder of Warwick for life. He died at Twickenham, 17 10. By his wife Sarah, daughter of Sir Francis Dashwood, Knight, he had seven sons and four daughters. Of these his eldest son, Francis, married Ann, daughter of John Wilmot, Esq. but died hefore his fathei^ leaving issue two sons, Fulke, and William. Fulke Greville Lord Brooke, survived his father and grandfather only five months. He died at Oxford, 171 lj unmarried. William Greville succeeded to the title on the decease of his elder brother ; and, on coming of age, was chosen Recorder of Warwick. He married Ann daughter and coheir of Thomas Thynne, Esq. ; and died July 28, If 22, leaving his honors and estates to Francis, his third > but only surviving son. Francis Greville succeeded to the title of Lord Brooke, when he was but eight years old. Soon after coming of age, he was chosen Recorder of Warwick, In May, 1742, he married the Hon. Elizabeth Hamilton, eldest daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton, son of William, Duke of Hamilton, By this Lady he had three sons, George, who succeeded him ; Charles-Francis, who died unmarried, 1809; Robert-Fulke, afterwards Groom, EARLS OF WARWICK. a% Francis Greville., eighth Lord Brooke, the first Earl of Warwick. •a. ii ii ■ S i ■ sassaasssss of the Bedchamber to the King, who married Louisa, Countess of Mansfield ■; and five daughters, Louisa- Augusta, married to Wm. Churchill, Esq. ; Frances- Elizabeth, married to the late Sir H. Harper ; Char- lotte-Mary, married to John, Earl of Galloway; Isabella, who died in infancy ; and Anne, who died in 1/83. — In the year 1746, Francis Lord Brooke was raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke. On the death of the Duke of Montague in 1749, he was appointed Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Warwick; and in 1753, he was created Knight of the most ancient Order of the Thistle, On the 13th Nov. 1759, he was advanced by George II. to the further dignity of Earl of Warwick; and afterwards obtained a grant to himself and to his descendants, to bear the ancient crest of the bear and ragged staff. — His Lordship died July 6, 1773. — The Manor of Warwick, which, after the death of Ambrose Dudley, had remained in the possession of the crown, until granted by Charles I. to the Corporation of London, and by them sold to Wm. Bolton, Esq. of London, was purchased of his family by this Earl, in the year 1742; and was, thus, again united to the Castle. George Greville, Earl Brooke and Warwick, Baron Brooke, of Beauchamp Court, in Warwickshire ; Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County; Recorder of Warwick ; Fellow of the Royal Society ; succeeded his father 1773. On the 1st of April, 1771, he married Georgiana, only daughter of James I^ord Selsey, who died April 1, 177 2 ? leaving one son George, who also died at the age of 14. His Lordship again married July 9, 1776, Henrietta, daughter of Richard Vernon, f 2 44 HISTORY OF, &c. George Greville, the present Earl of Warwick. Esq. and of Evelyn, Countess of Upper Ossory, and sister to Granville, Marquis of Stafford. By this Lady his Lordship has had three sons, and five daughters : Henry., Lord Brooke, Colonel of the Warwickshire Mili- tia, and Member for the Borough of Warwick, in three successive Parliaments ; Charles, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 38th regiment of foot ; Robert, who died July l6, 1802 ; Elizabeth, who died Jan. 23, 1806; Henrietta, married to Thomas Scott, Earl of Chnmell ; Caroline ; Augusta Louisa; and Charlotte, SOrmottal Sfoaring^ Arms. Sable, on a cross, within a border ingrailed, or, five pellets. Crests. Out of a ducal coronet, gules, a swan with wings expanded, argent, beaked, of the first. And on a wreath of his colours, a bear erect, argent, muzzled, gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. Supporters. Two swans, with wings expanded, argent, legged, sable, beaked, and ducally collared, gules. Mot-* jo. Vix ea nostra vocq. PRESENT STATE, &c. 45 Situation of the Tozon. CHAP. IV. $«£ent .State of t^attokft. Situation — Principal Streets — Improvements after the Great Fire — Recent Improvements — Paving — Flagging — Lighting — Trade — Markets — Public Amusements — Population — Corporate Body — Number of Electors — Prin- cipal Inns — Banks — Daily Posts — Land and Water Communication — Geographical Position — Surrounding Roads— Objects of curiosity in the Vicinity* JSI OTHING can well be imagined more happily chosen, than the situation of Warwick; "in which" says Dug- dale," this town may justly glory beyond any other." "It " stands on a main rocky hill," ^rising in every direction, particularly in that of east and west : and the ascent, which marks the immediate approach into the town, terminates in the central streets. In one of the oldest descriptions of Warwick, it is remarked that "the entrance " into it is, by four roads, leading by as many religious '*: houses, thro' a rock, over a current of water." The works of nature are not frail and transient, in an equal de- gree at least, as those of art : and whilst the same rocks still rise and the same currents still flow, all the religious edifices, here alluded to, have either ceased to exist, or have long since been converted to different purposes. The four roads, however, are, probably, the same as the present roads to Birmingham, Stratford, Coventry, and Banbury. * Leland. § They were, probably, St. Michael's in theSaltsford; St. Lawrence'* in the West Street ; St. John's near the Coton-End ; and St. Helen's near the Bridge-End. 46 PRESENT STATE Tract of country surrounding the Town. The fine rocky eminence on which the town stands, is itself seated in the midst of a spacious and beautiful amphitheatre, formed by a circuit of hills, gently rising, at the distance of about two or three miles, and bounding its prospect on eveiy side ; except to the north-east, where the view extends into Northamptonshire ; and to the south-west, where it opens over a vast expanse of country, terminated by the Gloucestershire and Worcestershire hills. This whole surrounding tract is naturally fertile, and highly cultivated ; intersected every where with remark- ably fine hedges, to which great attention is paid ; richly embellished with flourishing trees and woods ; and beau- tifully watered by the meanderings of the Avon, which is here a considerable stream, and its tributary river, the Learn, which joins it near Warwick. This delightful situation is further recommended by the salubrity of its atmosphere, which is pure, dry, and so warm, that the seasons are usually a fortnight earlier here, than in many places not more distant than twenty or thirty miles, " The beauty and glory of Warwick" says Ice- land, " is in two streets, whereof one is called the High * c Street, and goeth from the East Gate to the West, " having a right goodly cross in the middle of it ; the cc other crosseth the middle of it, making a quadrivium y u and goeth from north to south. " The cross has long ago been removed ; but the principal streets still retain the same direction ; and continue to deserve, in the same degree, the praise of spacious and handsome streets. Since the days of Leland, who flourished about the year 1530, as may well be supposed, the town has witnessed many and great changes, especially in consequence of the dreadful fire which, in 1694, destroyed so large a part of it. OF WARWICK. . 47 Principal Streets — Recent Improvements But this calamity, deplorable as it was at the time, proved in the end truly beneficial. For, from its ashes, the town once more arose, erected upon a plan of greater spaci- ousness, regularity and beauty : and thus, in its improved appearance, and especially in its superior convenience and healthfnlness, the most important advantages have been secured, and transmitted down to all its future inhabitants. But notwithstanding these great advantages of appearance and situation, Warwick has long been consi- dered and described as a place, remarkable for dull inac- tivity, and for the careless inattention of the inhabitants to all that might obviously contribute to its improvement, and its embellishment. This reproach stands recorded against it in many publications, both in prose and poetry.* But it will now be allowed, we think, that such reproaches if ever just, are so no longer, or at least are becoming less so every day : and that there is the fairest prospect of seeing Warwick rise to a distinguished rank amongst the most considerable county towns of England. The inha- bitants have lately displayed their spirit and liberality, as well as their taste, in many great and important improve- ments ; of which the last, though not the least, is the culverting, flagging and paving of all the principal streets. This is now substantially and handsomely done, at the expence of upwards of c ^?5 ? 000. the whole of which was defrayed by voluntary subscription. During the winter months, the town is also lighted, the expence of which is defrayed out of the funds of the corporation. The streets are of ample breadth ; and built with considerable J « Appendix, No. 4S PRESENT STATE Trade — Markets — Public Amusements. attention to uniformity. Most of the narrower parts have heen widened; and almost every inconvenient ob- struction or unsightly appearance removed. Many of the private houses are modern and handsome ; many of the shops are newly fronted, and tastefully fitted up ; and all the public edifices are at once substantial and ornamental. In short, by these and other improvements, conducted both with spirit and judgment, Warwick has been greatly raised in its general appearance and character: and may now fairly claim to be described, not only as a neat, airy, and cleanly ; but also, to a certain extent, as a spacious, regular, handsome and flourishing Town, With no pretension to rank amongst the larger commercial or manufacturing towns of England, War-* wick may yet boast of some considerable share of trade, which is in a progressive state: and of exhibiting a little more than formerly of that stir and bustle, which trade usually produces. Its markets, held every Saturday, which were formerly inconsiderable, are now large, well- supplied, and numerously attended. The Canal lately completed from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, where it joins the Oxford, and with it the Grand Junction Canal ; the two Cottony the Lace, and especially the Worsted Manufactory, lately esta- blished, upon a large scale, by some ingenious and en- terprising individuals, have already contributed much to its chearful activity and growing population. The assizes, the quarter sessions, the several fairs amounting to twelve in a year ; the horse races in September, followed by a second in November; the winter assemblies, the occasio- nal theatrical amusements, the long-established and well- supported hunt, lately under the direction of Mr. Corbet, OF WARWICK. 49 Population — Municipal Government. now of Lord Middleton, whose principal center is iii its vicinity ; and above ail, the numerous and fashionable resort of nobility and gentry, attracted either by the fame of its magnificent Castle, or by the celebrity of the medicinal Springs at Leamington, a rapidly-rising Avater- ing-place, in its neighbourhood — all these circumstances have concurred to give a considerable and an increasing life and spirit to the place. — Upon the whole, if we may hazard a prediction, founded on the experience of only a few past years, Warwick bids fair, perhaps at no very distant period, to all its other attractions, to add those of numerous and handsome shops, lively and bustling streets, increased and improved buildings, and an enlarged and thriving population. In the time of Dr. Thomas, whose edition of Dugdales Warwickshire was published in IpO, the number of houses were, in the parish of St. Mary 6j6, and in that of St. Nicholas 240. According to the last Census, taken by order of government, in 1811 ,— in Sf. Marifs parish were, — inhabited houses 960 — families 1059 — males 2272 — females 268 1, — In St. Nicholas'' parish — inhabited houses 29 1 — families 376 — males 740 — females 804. The total population, therefore, will be 6497 persons. The municipal government of the town is vested in a mayor, a recorder, 12 aldermen, and 12 principal burgesses, with a town clerk ; who have power to make laws for the regulation of the borough, and to impose reasonable fines and penalties upon all offenders. The first recorder appointed by the present charter was Fulke Lord Brooke, and the recorder at this time is, his des- cendant, the present Earl of Warwick. G 50 PRESENT STATE Right of Election — Public Buildings — Churches. This borough sends two members to Parliament, as already noticed. The right of election depends on the payment of certain rates to the church and poor, com- monly called scot and lot. The number of electors is about 500. The present members are, the Rt* Hon. Lord Brooke, and Charles Mills, Esa. The principal public edifices are, The County Hall, The County Gaol, The County Bridewell, The Court- House, and The Market -House. The churches are two, St. Marys, and St. Nicholas. St. James' Chapel, at the lower end of the High-street is private, and belongs to Leicester s Hospital ; and that of St. Peter's, at the east- ern extremity of Jury-street, has long been used for the purposes of a Charity School. There are places of worship belonging to the different classes of Dissenters, the Presbyterian, the Quaker, the Independent, the Baptist, and the Westleyan. The principal Inns are, the Warwick Arms, the Black Swan, and the Woolpach. At the latter, the Post- Office is established. There are two Banks ; of which, the firm of the first is, " Tomes, Russell, Tomes, and Russell;" that of the second, " Whitehead, Weston, and Greenway." In Jury-street, is a News-Room ; and near the Market Place, a Public Library, respectably supported by annual subscription. A Newspaper is pub- lished weekly. The Post from Coventry, and the north-eastern parts of the country, arrives every day at eleven, and that from London, at about the same hour. The former returns at twelve, the latter at three. There are com- OF WARWICK. 51 Geographical Position — Surrounding Roads. ■Hi i ■ ■ ■ j mi J 8 munications, by coaches, with Birmingham, Coventry^ Leicester, Gloucester, Bristol, and London ; and, by waggon, with these, and most other places in the king- dom. The Birmingham and Warwick Canal opens a communication by water, with all the northern parts ; and the Warwick and Napton Canal with all the southern parts of the kingdom. The geographical situation of Warwick is 52.° 4. N. Lat. 1.° 35. W. Long. The distance from London is J)3 miles, bearing N. W. and from some of the principal surrounding places the distances are as follows ; — from Leamington, 2 miles ; from Ken il worth, 5 ; from Coventry 10; from Rugby, 15 ; from Southam, 9; Daventry, 20; Kington, 11; Banbury, 20; Stratford, 8; Knowle, 10; and Birmingham, 21. The roads in Warwickshire are remarkably good; and those in the neighbourhood of Warwick are some of the best in the kingdom. Nothing can easily exceed, in all that contributes to the pleasure of a fine ride, the road from Stratford through Warwick to Coventry ; and there are other roads, singularly pleasant, in various directions round the town. Amongst the numerous objects of at- traction, besides the Castle, in the town itself; there are, in its vicinity, Guy's-Cliff, Ruins of Kenilworth Castle, Stoneleigh Abbey, Charlcott House, Combe Abbey ; and, at the distance of eight miles, is Stratford-on-Avon, dis- tinguished as the place where England's favorite Poet, tc sweetest Shakespeare, Fancy's child," was born, and where he died. G2 52 PERAMBULATION High Street — Bank — Warwick Arms — Presbyterian Chapel. CHAP. Y. ^e^amButetion of 3©artoicfe* High Street — Cow Lane — West Street — Jury Street — Smith Street — St. John's — Coton-End—the Butts— Back Hill— Castle Gates— Mill Street— Bridge End — Castle Street — Church Street — North Gate Street — Priory Park Entrance — Oil Mill Lane— Salt sf or d— Market Place— New Street — Bowling Green — Friar Lane— Race Course. JlN taking a more particular survey of TVarwick — or in guiding the walk of the stranger through it — we may observe, that what Leland calls the High Street, is now divided into two : of which, that which runs in a westerly direction alone retains the name, and is one of the best in the town. Most of the houses here are good ; and some, large and handsome. Their want of sufficient ele- vation, however, and the tiled roofs standing out too strongly to view, somewhat diminish the general effect. About the middle, on the south side, is the Bank of Messrs. Whitehead, Weston, and Greenway. Lower down, on the same side, one of the principal inns, the Warwick Arms, presents a spacious front, built of white stone, in a pleasing style of simple elegance. Opposite is the Printing-Office, whence issues, every Saturday, a Newspaper, which, though in its infancy, has already ob- tained an extensive circulation. Still lower down, on the south side, stands one of the Dissenting Chapels, a small but neat edifice, belonging to those who are commonly, but OF WARWICK. 53 Quaker's Meeting — Independent Chapel — St. James's — West Street. improperly, called Presbyterians. Near it, concealed from sight, is the Meeting House of a society of Quakers, con- siderable in number, and respectable, as they ever are, in character. Almost opposite, at a small distance, in Cow Lane, but retired from view, is the Independent Chapel, a plain, unadorned, but large and commodious building. In the same lane, stands Pickering's Alms Houses, of which, as well as of all the charitable and other institu- tions, distinct notice will be taken hereafter. The High Street is terminated, in a striking manner, by St. James's Chapel, belonging to Leicester's Hospital, for the relief of maimed soldiers, and decayed tradesmen built on an arch, which presents the appearance of a gate-way en- trance into the town. It was anciently called Hongyngate. Near this chapel, on the south, began the dreadful Fire, so often mentioned in the course of this Work, just be- hind one of those houses, which, by their antique appear- ance, still shew that they belong " to other times. " Extending from this to the opposite side, and proceeding easterly, the devouring flames left the whole street, a heap of smoaking ruins. Through the high but dark Gate-way, beneath St. James's Chapel, is the passage leading to the West Street, which is broad and airy ; chiefly inhabited by industrious labourers and artisans ; forming a wide en- trance into the Town, from the Kington and Stratford Roads. In Leland's Itinerary, it is noticed "as a very large Street." Towards the extremity of it, anciently stood the Church of St. Lawrence, one of those religious edifices, of which formerly there were so many ; but of which, no remains can now be traced. At what time this church was founded is uncertain : but even almost 54 PERAMBULATION Jury Street — Court- House — Black Swan. five hundred years ago, it is expressly described as being in a ruinous state ; and, by an ecclesiastical decree in the reign of Edward III. it was formally dissolved. Pro- ceeding up the West Street, from the Stratford Road, a fine view of St. James's Tower presents itself, appearing boldly in front, and rising loftily on its arch-way.* This chapel existed prior to the reign of Henry I. more than 700 years ago : but the present tower was erected by Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Richard II. Returning back to the Cross — branching from it easterly, is the Jury Street — so called from the matted room in it, where the Juries were formerly impannelled. In this street stands the Court-Honse, a stately edifice, substantially built of stone. Over its door is placed the Royal Arms above, and those of the Borough under- neath ; in the centre, is the figure of Justice, with her usual insignia, the sword and the balance. Lower down, on the same side, is another of the principal Inns, the Black Sivan, with a new and good front. Many of the houses in this street, are old, and afford striking specimens of the ancient mode of architecture, especially the remains of one which was formerly the residence of the noble family of the Archers. But some are modern, and built in a style which indicates the opulence of their possessors. The older buildings on each side, mark the points at which the destructive progress of the great fire, in this direction, was happily arrested. — In moving down the * It is to be lamented, that the good effect of a large aud well-proportioned window in this tower is entirely destroyed, by the miserable economy of bricking up the lower part of it. The bricls are even left uncovered with plaster. OF WARWICK. 3d St. Peter s — Smith Street — St. John's. whole of this street, St. Peter's Chapel will not fail to strike the eye, as a fine object. It was built as a place of religious worship in the reign of Henry VI. but is now converted to the benevolent purposes of a Charity School. In the centre, is the room appropriated to the boys ; and the newly added wing, built on the remains of the old town-walls, was intended for the use of the girls. It is pleasing to remark, of the two edifices, at the extremities of the two principal streets, at once ter- minating and adorning them, that one is devoted to the instruction of indigent youth, and the other to the con- solation of destitute and declining age. Passing through the arch-way of St. Peter's, the Smith-Street opens to view — i( once distinguished" says Leland, " as the residence of many Jews," — and a little beyond, is a large and ancient mansion, still retaining marks of its former grandeur. It was originally the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, founded in the reign of Henry II. by William Earl of Warwick, intended for the reception of the houseless poor, and the wandering stranger. This institution had however, from some un- known cause, ceased to exist, even prior to the general dissolution ; at which time the estate was in the possession of Anthony Stoughton, of the family of the Stoughtons, in Surrey. By him, probably, the present mansion was erected, which seems not to be much older than the time of Elizabeth. In consequence of the marriage of one of his female descendants to James Money, Esq. the estate passed into this family ; and, by his son, it was sold to the present Earl of Warwick. It is now a private Academy. Oppo- site to it, is the spacious and delightful Road to Coventry ; and, at a small distance from it ; appears a considerable. 56 PERAMBULATION Colon End — The Butts—Back Hill — Baptist Meeting. range of neat and comfortable habitations, recently erect- ed, intended chiefly for the accommodation of persons, employed in the newly-established Lace Manufactory. Beyond St. Johns, is Coton-End, a wide street, principally inhabited by the more laborious, but not the least useful, class of the community. It is mentioned in Domesday Book, by the name of Cotes, an old English word, which signifies House. It was originally part of the estate of Edwyne Earl of Mercia ; then, it became the possession of the Conq,ueror himself; afterwards, it was granted to Henry Earl of Warwick ; and, from him, was transmitted down to his descendants. Beyond Colon- End, is the Emscote Road. Returning back to St. Peter's Chapel, on the north side is that part, which is called the Butts, pro- bably, because butts were formerly erected here for the practice of archery,* so much encouraged by our former sovereigns. In this part is situated the College. School, a large and ancient building, almost concealed from view, by the luxuriant trees and shrubs of the surrounding gardens. Near it, is the Vicarage, belonging to the adjoining church of St. Mary ; and beyond it, is a range of houses, of the second rank, newly and uniformly built. On the south side of St. Peter's, opposite the Butts, descends a gentle declivity called the Back Hill, where, with unostentatious front, stands the Baptist Meeting-House. Adjoining, are some comfortable Alms * This was usual in the vicinit}' of most Towns. There is a place still called the ISvTTe at Leicester, and also another of the same name at Stamford, OF WARWICK. 57 Castle Gates — Milt Street — St. Nicholas. Houses, part founded by Thomas Oaken, and part by Nicholas Iffeler ; who both acquired affluent fortunes in this town, and were both liberal benefactors to it. On the opposite side, is the Castle wall ; and, at the lower extremity, stands its Castellated Entrance, plain and un- pretending, in its exterior appearance — of which, how- ever, if it be said that it is scarcely worthy of the magni- ficent structure, to which it conducts ; at least, it may be remarked, that it excites no previous expectation : and therefore leaves the mind open to the full impression of that astonishment and delight, which the unanticipated view of any object of extraordinary sublimity or beauty naturally produces. — Beyond the Castle gates, to the right, is the Mill Street, formerly the great eastern en- trance into the town, over an ancient Bridge of fourteen arches ; now fallen to decay, and purposely left in its ruinous state, to aid the effect of the fine view, which the venerable Castle, with its rising rocks and towering bat- tlements, and its whole surrounding scenery, here presents. This near view is seen to the best advantage, from the meadows, within the Castle Park, on the eastern bank of the river. Opposite the Castle gates, rurally seated, at a short remove from the road, is the Church of St. Nicholas, built in the style of modern gothic; of which if the exe- cution be good, the design, in the opinion of all the best judges, is bad. Between this church and St. John's, stood the ancient House of the Templars, founded by Roger Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry I. It was well endowed with lands, of which the neighbouring meadows, pastures, and other fields, including the water mill, were pan. Upon the suppression of the whole order in 1311, H 58 PERAMBULATION Nezo Bridge — Bridge-End— Castle Street* these lands passed into the possession of the Hospitallers of Balsall, in this county ; and, after the general dissolu- tion, into that of the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. At a small distance, easterly, is the New Bridge T lately erected over the Avon, consisting of one large cir- cular arch, measuring in its span 105 feet. Just beyond this bridge, three roads meet — of which the first, in front, divides at the toll-gate, within view, into the Tachbroke and Banbury roads — the second, to the right, conducts to the scanty remains of several considerable streets, known under the general name of the Bridge-End. Here anciently stood the Church of St. Helens, of which some small traces, in what was then used as a barn, were till very lately to be found. The third road, on the left, conducts to My ton, written in Domesday Book, Muitone; formerly a considerable village, though now entirely de- populated — with the exception of one single house, a handsome modern structure, called My ton House. It had formerly a chapel belonging to it, in which several Can on 3 officiated, to whom it is recorded, that many valuable grants of lands were made by Roger, Earl of Warwick? and others, in the time of King Stephen. From My ton 9 the road leads on to Leamington ; proceeding thence to Southam, and Daventry^ Returning once more to the Cross — at right angles to the High and Jury Street, oii the south side, is the Castle Street, formerly of considerable extent, but now much contracted, by giving way to the wi- dening circle of the Castle pleasure grounds. — On the north side, is the Church Street, in which are many good, and some handsome houses. Both sides of it wera- OF WARWICK. 59 Church-Street — St. Mary's — North Gate Street — County Hall. -* - - ■ — - ■ kid in ruins, by^jhe great fire; which, extending westerly, involved in one dreadful destruction, all the houses and streets between it and the Market Place. — Proceeding tip this street, a fine near view of St. Marys Church h presented — which, notwithstanding some great and asto- nishing faults in its plan, is yet a grand, imposing, and extensive pile. On the right, appears the Chapel of the Beauchamps, one of the finest structures of its kind, in the kingdom. It is in the rich gothic style, and the view of the exterior will afford scarcely less delight, than that of the beautiful interior — Turning, with regret, from this noble monument of ancient architecture, towards the cen- tral parts of the church, the large indeed, but surely uncouth and cumbrous windows, will particularly strike, and at the same time, justly offend the eye — constructed, as they are, in utter defiance of all rule, and all taste — The two rows of arches, in these windows are Saxon, heavy at best, and here strangely out of place ; and of the grotesque forms above them, neither name nor resemblance can be found, either in that or any other system of ancient or modern architecture. — Turning, however, to the left, the eye is better pleased — where the light and elegant tower is feen, rearing its lofty pinnacles, producing great effect, in spite of all the faults in the form of its arches and windows. Passing through the wide arch-way. formed by the four piers on which St. Mary's Tower is built — the North Gate Street opens to view— which, though more retired, is spacious and handsome ; the residence chiefly of the gentry of Warwick. It is particularly distinguished by its two noble and substantial buildings the County Ha!!, and the County Gaol. The former displays a front of wide extent, and considerable elegance, supported by pi ■ " ■ i i ■— — a» the southern extremity, stands the Market House. Near it is the IVoolpack, the third of the principal inns, newly erected, conveniently arranged, and well conducted. It is much frequented by travellers. In the Market Place was anciently a church, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, of which the first foun- dation is ascribed by Rous, to Caractacus, the most distinguished of all the early British chiefs. The walls of it were standing in the time of Dugdale : but even of these not the smallest trace is any longer to be found. Here, also, was formerly the Booth Hall, which was taken down only a few years ago : leaving, instead of an old and ruinous building, the present open and spacious area. At the northern extremity of the Market Place, in a short street, leading towards the church, is the Public Library. — At right angles to this street, is ano- ther, New Street, so called from having been built in the place of one, that was utterly destroyed by the great Fire. At the corner of this, with a handsome stone front, stands the Bank of Messrs. Tomes, Russell, Tomes and Russell. From one side of the Market Place, over the Iron Bridge, is the way to the Theatre ; of which, if its ex- ternal appearance promises nothing, the interior affords ample space, and convenient accommodation, for all who usually resort to theatrical amusements. At the southern end of the same place, a small street conducts to the Bowling Green, delightfully situated on an eminence, commanding a rich, pleasing, and exten- OF WARWICK Cs Bowling Green — Friar Lane — Race Course. — ■'■■■■■ — . . - , . . sive prospect. Further on, is the Friar Lane, so called, from a large building, which stood near it, belonging to the fraternity of Preaching Friars, called the Black Friars, who came over to England, and settled here, in the reign of Henry III. Their habitation was surrendered, by deed, into the hands of Henry VIII. and was soon after demolished. The lands were granted,, by Edward VI. to the Dudleys, Earls of Warwick. The Friar Lane is the principal road to the Race Course. The Race Course is esteemed one of the best in the kingdom. It extends round a large compass of ground, everywhere flat, except in one part ; and measures, in its whole extent, nearly two miles. For the accommo- dation of the numerous spectators, who usually resort to these diversions, a commodious Stand has been lately erect- ed, by private subscription. It presents, in its appearance, a handsome structure ; and, in its arrangement, is well con- trived for all the purposes intended. On the second floor is the principal apartment; which is a large room, whither the company may retire, in case of unfavorable weather: and, before it, on a kind of spacious balcony, tiers of seats are- placed ; whence is commanded a fine and extensive view of the course. Above, on a large open area, a still more extensive view is obtained; including the entire circum- ference of the course. Below, one convenient apartment is provided for the use of the company ; and the others, are formed into a comfortable dwelling for the herds- man, whose business it is to take charge of the nu- merous cattle sent to graze in these wide and fertile grounds — which is common land. The right of com- monage, which is now a valuable consideration, U vested in the inhabitants of certain houses, within the parish of 64 PERAMBULATION, &c. Views from the Race Ground — Marble Yard. St. Mary, under certain regulations, which were settled, immediately after the great Fire, in 1694; and of which a copy will be given in the Appendix.* In different parts of the Race Ground, are several good views of the town, with most of its principal objects, the Market House, the Prisons, the High Church, and St. James's : but its proud boast, the magnificent Castle, is not here to be seen ; except only in some of the more distant parts. — Standing forward, conspicuously to view, are two houses, called the Marble Yard, one § of sin- gular construction, but both substantially built, and most delightfully situated. They are the residence of the proprietors of the Worsted, Manufactory — of which the extensive buildings appear, also, in full view ; presenting an animated scene of busy and useful industry. * Appendix, No. IV. § An indifferent view of tliis House is given in the Beauties of England, v. xi — A view of the ancient Bridge mentioned p. 57, may be seen in Gilpin's Northern Tour, v. i. p. 38, and part of the fine view, noticed in the same page, is well given in one of the engravings of " Warwick Castle" a Poem, lately published. A WALK &c. 65 View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. CHAP. VI. % Walk rounU iEarimcft. View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road—from Tachbrooh Road- from the Nezo Bridge— from St. Nicholas' Meadow — from Blacklow Hill- front Coventry Road—from Guy's Cross Kill— from Hampton Hill- from Wedgenock Park — Distant Viezo of Kenilworth Castle. Jb ROM many points, in the immediate vicinity, the view of the Town and Castle of Warwick is highly picturesque and beautiful : and to some of these we shall proceed to direct the notice of the Stranger, in the course of a Walk, at a small distance round it. Passing over the New Bridge — and proceeding a little way on the Leamington Road — from this point, one of the finest views of Warwick presents itself, and displays, indeed, a scene of uncommon beauty and gran- deur.* In the fore-ground appears the rich meadows, through which the Avon gracefully takes its gentle and winding course : and, at a short distance, on the opposite bank, standing conspicuously forward to view, is the church of St. Nicholas, darkly shaded with trees behind. Near it is the Castellated Entrance of the Castle ; and, * This 'u the View of Warwick which is given in the present Wort, I 66 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Castle from Leamington Road. a little above, the small but elegant tower of St. Peter's Chapel. Further back to the right is the Priory, em- bosomed in its own beautiful woods : and, still further to the right, is the ancient Hospital of St. John, which, no pleasing object in itself, is well relieved by the interpos- ing shade of trees. The town is seen, scattered about, interspersed with wood, rising in the center ; and crowned with its noble tower of St. Mary's, ascending far above the richly variegated and extensive groves of the Castle. On the left, eclipsing by its solemn grandeur every other object, appears the CASTLE, proudly seated on a bold and elevated rock, and raising high its towers and bat- tlements above all the lofty and spreading trees, which encircle it, and lend the aid of their varied shades, to diversify and enrich the prospect. The majestic tow T ers of C^sar, on the one side, and of Guv, on the other, with the grand embattled Gate-way in the middle, richly clad in the thickest foliage, would of themselves form a fine and a complete picture. * The New Bridge, in the front, may seem, by its modern elegance, to disturb the harmony of the scene. It, besides, somewhat awkwardly interposes between the eye of the spectator and the view of the Castle. It is, however, a noble object in itself, stretching across the river with one mighty span of 105 feet ; and contributes, perhaps, by the very contrast, to heighten the effect of the whole.- — Such are the outlines of the striking and beautiful scenery, which marks the approach to Warwick, on the eastern side ; and few persons, it is believed, have ever beheld it, entering into the town, especially for the first time, without something * This is given in the present Work. The same View may also be seen in Ireland's Vict, View, p. 13 1. and in The Beauties of England and Wales. WARWICK. 67 View of the Town and Castle from Tachbrook Road. of those high-raised emotions, which, possibly, may be termed enthusiastic — but which he who has never felt, in contemplating views like this, is not to be envied. Perhaps, it may be considered as a defect in the view to which we have just pointed " that the modern and meaner buildings are too near; and, by their dis- tinctness, break and divide the whole too much into patches ; and thus impair the effect."— Let, then, the lover of picturesque scenery, remove from the Learning* ton Road; and, at the Bridge, turning on the left, let him proceed along the road that leads to Tachbrook. Here, on a rising ground, about a mile from the town, his eye will be gratified by a view, which, in all that constitutes a beautiful and impressive landscape, few can surpass. Being on the same side of the town, it is of course, in many respects, the same as the former; but here the prospect is more extensive ; in its several parts, more harmoniously blended ; and, in its whole effect, more strikingly grand. In this, as in the former view, appears in front St. Nicholas' Church, distinctly, yet not glar- ingly seen. The small tower of St. Peter's may be discerned a little above it, but almost concealed and lost in the verdant shade. The New Bridge scarcely appears, but its balustrade may be imperfectly seen. On the right, the Priori/ boldly discloses to view the summits of its spacious mansion, ascending above the beautiful groves, which encompass and adorn it. The ancient Hospital of St. Johns appears further to the right, partly screened from view, by its surrounding trees and shrubs. The noble tower of St. Marys Church majestically soars in the center, the most elevated object in the picture : even the nave and wings of that stately edifice rise to 1 2 6s A WALK ROUND View of the Castle from the New Bridge. view with just dignity. The Castle, super-eminently the glory of the scene, next presents itself to the astonished eye, in all its magnificence. The whole range of front, of ample breadth, and lofty height, displays itself, at once, with great effect : and its long line is finely broken and interspersed, by large and luxuriant trees, which throw their spreading arms about it, or push their aspir- ing tops above it. The towers and battlements, loftily rising, look with imposing grandeur. In front Ccesar's Tower presses forward to view ; whilst, behind it, Guys Tower ascends, as if in scorn, far above it, It is, however, a defect in this view, that these two magnificent towers are seen too much in the same straight line, and that the embattled Gateway is entirely lost to the sight. On the left appears the Maiden and other small towers. Still farther to the left, a new and a striking object is intro- duced, in the tower of St. James's Chapel ; bursting on the sight from the thickest of the woods, which seem to encompass it. Its antique form, and sombre hue truly harmonize with the solemn air of the Castle, and of the whole surrounding scene — which is shut in by a gently rising, and deeply wooded country, stretching to a con- siderable extent, on every side. Having thus surveyed two of the finest prospects, which the town and castle of Warwick presents on its eastern and southern side — we shall next, conduct the Stranger to one or two that may be seen, on the northern and north-eastern side. Repassing the New Bridge — he will hence see, in near and striking view, the Castle, with all its beautiful scenery — the winding waters, the towering trees, and es- WARWICK. 69 View of Wane ick from St. Nicholas Meadow— from Guys Ciiff. pecially the prodigious rock on which it stands, and to which it seems united, rather by the hand of nature than that of human art. It is this view,* which, oftener per- haps than any other, is chosen by the numerous artists, whether amateurs or professors, who are so frequently at- tracted hither, in search of grand or pleasing subjects for the exercise of the pencil. — Removing from the bridge towards the town, on the right, are the fertile meadows of St. Nicholas ; in the more distant parts of which, the stranger, desirous of seeing it in all its different points, may obtain another view,§ remarkably fine, of the town and the Castle, on the one side, and the river, with its noble Bridge, on the other. The rich woods which every where encircle the town, and those especially which sur- round the Castle, from this point, appear disposed in a manner singularly striking and beautiful. Hence, passing the Church, and bending to the right, let the stranger next proceed along the Coventry road, till he reach the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff. Here, turning, through a small gate, into a spacious field, on the right, his eye will be gratified by a view, entirely different from all the former ; and which, for fine and picturesque effect, may be considered as even superior. From this point the Castle and the Churches of St. Mary and St. Nicholas, rising from the bosom of stately and spreading trees, present the appearance of a rich and beautiful cluster of towers and groves ; nor is this fine assemblage injured by the obtrusion of any modern or meaner buildings. It is in scenes, like this, where, if less * This View may be seen in Ireland's Picturesque Views on the U «ra ickshire Avon, p. 140. § This View is also given in the same Work, p. 129. 70 A WALK ROUND View of the Town and Castle from Blacklow Hill— from Guys Cross Hill. is disclosed to the eye, that more is left to the imagination ; and what the imagination touches, it generally embellishes and improves. Hence, probably, it is that the partial view of towers and battlements " bosom'd high in tufted trees,*' according to the idea of the great Poet, or al- most concealed in the deep shade of woods, produces a greater impression on the mind, than the uninterrupted view of larger parts of the building, or the full display of the whole edifice at once. Nearly the same view of Warwick, as that just noticed, may be seen, to great advantage, from the top of Blacklow Hill, at a short distance farther, on the Coven- try road. — From this eminence, also, a striking view is seen of Guy's Cliff 1 House, deeply ambushed in towers of its own ancient groves, with the " softly flowing Avon " winding along, in a great length of course, through the fine tract of country, which it fertilizes and adorns. Near the summit of this hill, the stranger may read, commemora- tive of the melancholy event which here took place, the following inscription, cut in the rock, c( P. Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, beheaded 1311."* Leaving the neighbourhood of Guy's Cliff, and returning towards the town, on reaching the summit of a gentle ascent, in the road, the towers and woods of War- wick again present themselves in nearer, but striking view.^ This rising ground is still remembered by the name of Guy's Cross Hill — probably from an ancient Pillar, erected on it, which certainly once existed, though it has * The letters are of modern form : and the date is erroneous. It ought to he 1312. § This view is noticed as finelj picturesque, by Mr. Warner. See Norther* Tour, vol. ii. p. Distant View of Kenilworth Castle. grown trees. Behind, and on every side, a country of nearly the same description extends, including the villages of Cubbington, Lillington, Offchurch, Radford, ZJfton, Harbury, Chesterton, Tachbrook, and Barford. In the distance are seen the hills of Napton, those of Shuckburgh Park, near Dav entry, and the Edge Hills dividing this county from Oxfordshire, on the one side ; and the lofty Breedon and Broadway, on the other. After having sufficiently contemplated this view — let the spectator turn in an opposite direction ; and, moving only a few steps, he will be equally surprised and delighted to see, in full prospect before him, the ruins of Kenilworth Castle, This stupendous pile, even at this distance, presents a grand appearance ; rearing its ivied summits, above the deep and solemn shades, which sur- round it. On one side appears the village of Kenilworth, with its spired Church, its ruined Priory, and its scattered habitations, pleasingly interspersed with wood. In the front is Goodrest, a substantial farm-house, built on the site of the ancient manor house, belonging to JVed^enock Park. It was so called, as Dugdale conjectures, be- cause some of the Countesses of Warwick were accus- tomed, during the period of childbirth, for the sake of quiet seclusion, to retire to this place ; where, it appears upon record, many of their children were born. In the distance, may be discerned, besides several village, churches, the three spires of Coventry. — It will be thought, not a little remarkable that, from the same station, should thus be obtained a view at once of two of the most anci- ent and most magnificent Castles in the kingdom — the one Still towering in all its pride and pomp — the other fallen prostrate, yet exhibiting venerable marks of former power and splendour, in its grand and av»ful ruins. K »T4 TRADE OF Royal Mint in the time of the Anglo-Saxons. CHAP. VII. €ta&e of 3©arimc&, Ancient Mint— former Stuff Manufactory — present state of general Trade—* Hat Manufactory — Worsted Manufactory — Cotton Weaving — and Cotton Spinning Manufactory — Lace Manufactory— 'Navigation Mill. JO ROM all remaining records, it does not appear that Warwick was ever distinguished in ancient times, as the seat of any extensive or important manufactory. Yet the fact must not be entirely omitted here, though it may not strictly belong to the subject, that in the age of the Anglo- Saxons, a Royal Mint was certainly established in this town. This is decisively proved by the curious coin of Hardicanute, mentioned in an early part of this work ;* and also from two other coins, one of Canute, and the other of Harold II. minted here ; of both which un- doubted specimens still remain. In proof of the same fact, the authority of the celebrated John Rous may also be adduced, who gives the following account of this royal mint. It was established, he says,|| in the eastern part of Warwick, as he discovered from certain records, pre- served in the Collegiate Church of St. Mary ; in which he frequently read the names of Baldred, Everard, and other moneyers. He further adds, as what he had * See page 3. || " Warwiciensium prioribus temporibits omagium erat ad oricntem,<$;c. n Rous p. 194, WARWICK. 75 Former Stuff' Manufactory* clearly ascertained, that the place, where the Vicars of the College lived, in his time, was the very place where the persons employed, in this ancient mint, resided. It is, indeed, sufficiently known, that, in the time of the Anglo-Saxons, there were mints in most of the counties of England : nor was it till after the reign of William the Conqueror, that the business of coining was carried on principally in the Tower of London; as it now is in the New Mini, erected on the eastern side of Tower Hill. But if from early, we descend to later times — so far as the present researches have been able to discover, it appears that, for many ages after the Norman conquest, the whole trade of Warwick was limited to the single object of supplying the wants of the inhabitants, and those of the immediate vicinity : nor was there any article, the produce of human ingenuity or labour, that could ob- tain for it celebrity, as a commercial or manufacturing town. About the beginning of the last century, however, we find a manufactory established, in this place, for the making of cheneys and arrotines ; and this was conducted, according to the notion of the times, on a scale of very considerable magnitude. It even appears that a large proportion of the poorer inhabitants were then engaged in the business of weaving these stuifs ; and that in almost every house, belonging to the labouring class, three or four wheels were constantly employed in spinning, for the use of the weavers. But this manufactory has since gra- dually declined ; nor, till within a very few late years, have the views of trade in general extended, in any other direction, beyond the demands, which the daily necessities of civilized life create, within the precincts of the town itself, and the surrounding country. With that k 2 ?6 TRADE OF Present State of Trade — Hat Manufactory. increased population, however, which we have before noticed, even this source of trade must of course have opened for itself a wider and deeper channel : and when the great resort of nobility and gentry to the neighbour- ing Spa of Leamington is further considered ; it will not surprise the Reader to be told, that the number of shops, within the last twenty years, has greatly multi- plied, and that the quantity of internal trade has been nearly doubled. But it must now be added that, of late years, some of the more enterprising traders of Warwick have enlarged their views ; and entered into several branches of the wholesale trade, particularly that of linen and cotton. A considerable Manufactory of Hats, of very superior excel- lence, has, also, been carried on, for several years, under the direction of Messrs. Lamb. Near the Back Hill, an Iron Foundry was established, in the year 1810, by Mr. T. Roberts who has obtained much reputation for the making of all sorts of machinery. The Canal, too, brought from Birmingham to this place, and continued thence to Napton, Braunston and London, has opened new and important sources of trade, particularly in corn and coal. But, for its great increase of reputation as a trading town, Warwick is principally indebted to the establishment of the four folio wins: Manufactories — of which we shall proceed to give some account — concluding with a short notice of the newly erected Navigation Mill. THE WORSTED MANUFACTORY. The first in magnitude, though not in order of time, is the Worsted Spinning Manufactory , which was first established in 1796, under the firm of Parkes, WARWICK. 77 Wo r sted — Cotton, Weaving Manufactory. Brookhouse and Crompton. A large and commodious building has been erected, furnished with every conve- nience for carrying it on, in the most complete manner : and the main building is surrounded by others, adapted to the various purposes connected with this great under- taking. The works are put in motion by means of a Steam Engine, erected by Messrs. Bolton and Co. of which the power is equal to that of thirty horses. The number of hands employed is about 500. The wool is here conducted from the fleece, through all the successive processes of sorting, washing, combing, dying, and spin- ning into worsted and yarn, both of finer and coarser qualities. The former is for the hosiery ; and the latter for the carpet manufactory. The worsted finds its prin- cipal markets at Leicester, Hinckley, and Nottingham ; and the yarn at Kidderminster. THE COTTON WEAVING MANUFACTORY. This was established in 1797, under the firm of Messrs. Parker. Extensive and well-adapted buildings have been erected for the purpose of carrying it on, in large and open grounds, near the Oil Mill Lane. The number of hands employed is about 200. Here, the cot- ton is woven into various articles, as dimities, calicoes, fustians, velveteens, and velverets. The raw material is chiefly procured from Manchester ; and the manufac- tured goods are returned to the same place, as the great mart for sale. the cotton spinning manufactory. This manufactory was established in the year 1792 at Emscote, about a mile from Warwick, but within the precincts of the borough, under the firm of Messrs. 78 TRADE OF, &c. Cotton Spinning — Lace Manufactory — Navigation Mill. Smart. Tlie works are carried on partly by means of water and partly by that of steam. The number of hands employed is about 50. The raw material is chiefly procured at London and Liverpool : and when spun is sent to Manchester. LACE MANUFACTORY. This manufactory, established in 1810, is carried on under the firm of Nunn, Brown, and Freeman. The lace is made entirely by machinery, for which a patent was obtained in 1811 ; and is considered as equal in every valuable quality, to that which is made, in the usual way, by hand. It is of all the various kinds known by the name of common Bobbin, Mechlin, and Valenciennes lace. It is made both of British and Foreign thread ; and the lace is principally sent to London for the supply of the home trade and also for exj^ortation. About 80 hands are employed in this manufactory. navigation mill. This is situated near the Navigation Bridge, on the Emscote Road. It was erected in the year 1805, by Messrs. Tomes and Handley. The wheel is of that kind which is called back-shot, and is turned by the superfluous water, flowing from the TVarwick and Napion Canal, down a fall of 27 feet, and thence runs into the Avon. This great wheel is of cast iron and excellent construction, which does credit to the maker, Mr. Roberts, of PVarwick; measuring in diameter 24 feet. The mill is furnished with five pair of stones ; three of which are kept con- stantly in motion. The apparatus is, in every part, well constructed : and the contrivance is singularly good for loading and unloading. This mill is capable of grinding and dressing, for bread flour, upwards of 300 bushels per day. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &c. 79 County Hall. CHAP. VIII, County Hall — Court House — Market House — New Bridge — It on Bridge- Theatre — Public Library — College School. F the principal public buildings of Warwick, as enumerated in a former part of this work, we shall here subjoin a short account — reserving, for distinct chapters, that of the County Gaol and County Bridewell. THE COUNTY KALL. This is a spacious and magnificent building, de- signed and finished under the direction of Messrs. J. and H. Hiorne, architects of Warwick, about the year 17/6*. Its elegant stone front is supported by a range of pillars of the Corinthian order, and the intervals are ornamented with festoons of flowers. On each side of the grand entrance are two niches, intended for the reception of statues ; but these are still unoccupied : and over it, a space is left, apparently designed for some appropriate inscription, which still remains a blank. — Ascending a flight of stone steps, through large folding doors, is the entrance into a noble room, of lofty elevation and just proportion, which measures 94 feet in length and 3G m breadth. At each extremity, in semi-circular recesses, so PUBLIC BUILDINGS Court- House. properly fitted up, crowned with handsome cupolas, and surrounded by convenient galleries, are held the two Courts of Justice: one, on the right, for the decision of criminal, and the other for that of civil causes. Between them, is a room, for the accommodation of the servants, and attending officers of the court. Above, is the apart- ment for the occasional retirement of the petty juries : and adjoining to it, is the Grand Jury Chamber. — In this great Hall, besides the assizes, the quarter sessions are held ; all county meetings are convened ; and, once a year, at the time of the races, it is converted into a ball- room. The stone floor is then covered by a boarded one ; the circular recesses are fitted up in the manner of card- rooms ; the pillars are encircled with wreaths of lamps ; and the whole solemn appearance of a court of justice is changed into the brilliant and sportive scene of gaiety and fashion. THE COURT HOUSE. This stately building was erected about 1 730, under the direction of John Smith, an architect of considerable celebrity, at the expence of the Corporation. For this, however, under the charge of a misapplication of the public money, they were summoned to appear in the Court of Chancery; and were suspended from the exercise of all their power and privileges : to which they were not restored till the year 1738. It is, indeed, a spacious and handsome edifice ; but not more so, it will now be thought, than suitable to the dignity of such a corporate town as that of Warwick. The principal entrance is from Jury- Street. On the ground floor, are two apartments of ample space. In that, on the right hand, the Mayor and Alder- men hold their assemblies. In this room, is a good OF WARWICK. 81 Market- House — New Bridge. portrait of Hen. VIII. who, out of the spoils of the ruined monasteries, bestowed upon this town so many valuable benefactions. It is the gift of John Bohun Smyth, Esq. the present Mayor. Opposite is the Court Room, properly fitted up for the purpose of holding the borough sessions. On the second floor, is the principal apartment, which is spacious, well-proportioned, and ele- gantly fitted up — measuring 60 feet by 2/. It is furnished with cut-glass chandeliers, large and beautiful. At one extremity is the orchestra; and there is a card-room adjoining. In this great room, annual entertainments are given by the Mayor ; public meetings are convened ; public lectures on philosophical and other subjects occa- sionally delivered ; and here, the winter dancing assem- blies, held monthly, at least till lately, were usually graced with all the beauty and fashion of the county. THE MARKET-HOUSE. This, like all the other public buildings, is sub- stantial and good. The lower and open part is appro- priated to the use of those, who attend the market. The upper apartments are chiefly used for the purpose of storing the arms and accoutrements, belonging to some of the military corps of the county. From the summit, a bird's-eye-view of the town may be obtained, and a fine prospect of the surrounding country. THE NEW BRIDGE. About the year 1785, the old Gothic Bridge over the Avon, near the Castle, which was narrow and incon- venient, was found, also, to be much out of repair. An Act of Parliament was therefore obtained for the erection of a new one ; and for the alteration, in consequence, of i 8-2 PUBLIC BUILDINGS ' ' i — Iron Bridge, the public road to Daventry and Banbury, from its former to its present direction. The Bridge consists of one grand arch 3 forming the segment of a circle, measuring in its span^ 105 feet, in its breadth 36, and in its height to the rise of the arch 25. It is built in a chaste style of simple elegance, which does honour to the architect, William Ebboral, a native of Warwick, who died very soon after its completion in 1790. The stone of which it is constructed, was procured, and conveyed in boats, from the Rock Mill near Emscote. The whole expence amounted to ^4,000 ; which was defrayed by the Earl of Warwick, assisted by the sum of ^1,000 from the Corporation. But no inscription records either the date of the erection, the name of the artist, or that of the noble person at whose expence chiefly it was built. In no long time after the finishing of this noble bridge, the old one gave way to the overwhelming force of a great flood ; and it is left, by the taste of its noble owner, in its present ruinous state, as a striking addition to the scenery of the vene- rable castle, THE IRON BRIDGE. This light and handsome Bridge, consisting of one arch, which measures in its span 24 feet, was erected in 1804, over the road, cut out of the solid rock, leading from the Market -Place to the Saltsford. It was a pre- sent to the town from one of its members, Charles Mills, Esq.. and it would be ungrateful not to acknow- ledge how much the inhabitants are indebted, on this and many other occasions, to the zeal and liberality, with which that gentleman has ever directed his attention to all that concerns the improvement and the prosperity of the place, which he has so long represented in Parliament. OF WARWICK. 83 Theatre — Public Library. THEATRE. This building, though small in extent, sufficiently affords all the accommodation required: and, though humble in its external appearance, is neatly and conveni- ently fitted up within. It is always opened, during the week of the races ; and occasionally, at other times. The character of the performers is, in general, nearly the same as that of most of those, who tread the boards of a provincial theatre. But not unfrequently some of the more eminent actors on the British stage have condes- cended to display their talents, on this humbler scene. PUBLIC LIBRARY. This literary institution was first established in the year 1/92. It is supported by Unnual subscription, and the number of its members is now above 100. The pay- ment of two guineas entitles to a share hi its property, which is transferable at pleasure. It is placed under the management of a committee, consisting of seven persons, chosen* annually by ballot. The collection of books i^ now considerable, and, upon the whole, well-chosen ; consisting chiefly of works in the various branches of modern literature. The room, in which they are placed, situated at the extremity of the Market Place, is not considered as very commodious. But it may be expected that the public spirit, which has lately displayed itself in so many important improvements of the town, will in due time, be directed to the object of providing; a more detached and suitable apartment, not unworthy of beim** compared with others of a similar description, which have been appropriated or erected, in so many towns in various parts of the kingdom. This prevailing and increasing attention to public institutions^ ^o intimately connected L 2 84 PUBLIC BUILDINGS College School. with the general diffusion of knowledge, may he regarded, indeed, as one of the most auspicious circumstances, in the aspect of modern times, in this enlightened and favoured country. COLLEGE SCHOOL. This building, situated in the Butts, is of considerable size and antique appearance. It is built in the form of a quadrangle, encompassing a court, and having a clois- ter, or passage, both on the first and second floor, nearly all round it. It was originally begun by Richard Beau- champ, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry VI. and finished by his executors. It was designed for the residence of the Dean and Canons of the ancient Colle- giate Church oj St. Marys ; and a piece of ground lately given to it by the Earl of Warwick, is still called the deanery. There is an excellent garden adjoining, sur- rounded by a high wall. — The present institution owes its foundation to Henry VIII. ; and its purpose is to provide, free of expence, for the education of all the native chil- dren of the town, who chuse to avail themselves of this advantage. But as the course of instruction, prescribed by the statutes, includes only the learned languages, its Utility, as a free school, for the purposes of general edu- cation, is of course very limited.— The salary of the master, who must be a clergyman of the Church of England, was originally fixed at ^20 : but, at subsequent periods, was raised, first to ^40, and next to Jzfb. An assistant teacher has also been since appointed, with a salary, first of ^£\2, afterwards advanced to ^£30. To these salaries further additions have been made, by the will of Mr. W. Viner and Mr. T. Oaken. — In the year 1723, by the will of Mr. Fulke Weal, a native of the OF WARWICK. 85 College School. town, and one of its great benefactors, two estates were left in trust, the one at Langly and the other at Hampton- on-the-Hill ; for the purpose of providing two exhibitions, each of them now of the annual value of ^/0, to be given to two young men, natives of the town, towards defraying the expence of their education at Oxford, for the space of seven years. --Trt 86 CHARITIES Henry the Eighth's Charity. CHAP. IX. €fyaniu$. Henry the Eighth's — Sir Thomas White s — Oaken s — Griffin s — Various. J. HE estates and monies appropriated to charitable and other public uses, for the benefit of the town of Warwick, are very considerable ; of which we now propose to give some account — beginning with those which are intended for charitable and other public purposes more generally — proceeding, in the following chapter, to those which are assigned to the specific purpose of supporting hospitals- schools — and alms-houses. HENRY THE EIGHTH'S CHARITY. At the general dissolution of the monasteries, in the reign of Henry VIII. several valuable grants were made, by letters patent, to the corporate body of Warwick. These consist of the rectories of St. Mary and St. Nicho- las, in the borough ; the rectories of Budbroke in this county, and of Chaddesley in Worcestershire ; and various houses and lands belonging to these rectories, amounting in the whole, at this present time, to the annual rental of ^2,335. After the necessary charges are paid, under the various heads of taxes, repairs, and improvements, the remaining sum can scarcely fall much short of ^2,000 per annum : out of this large fund, the annual AT WARWICK. s; - ■ i Y | i ; i Sir Thomas White s Charity. stipends are paid to the vicar of St. Marys and St. Nicho- las, to the assistant Preacher at the former ; to the Vicar of Budbrook, to the Master and Usher of the Free School ; to the Clerk and other officers of St. Mary's ; and to the Mayor and other officers of the borough — amount- ing in the whole to about ^=660 per annum. The remain- ing sum is expended in repairs of the churches and other public buildings ; in the improvement of the town ; in providing relief for the aged and other poor ; and in bind- ing out orphan or indigent children as apprentices. SIR THOMAS WHITE'S CHARITY. By an agreement made in 155 1, between Sir Thomas White, Alderman of London, and the Corpo- ration of the city of Coventry, the sum of <^ 1,400 was laid out in the purchase of lands, part of the possessions of the Priory lately dissolved, in the neighbourhood of that city. By the same agreement and by subsequent decrees of the Court of Chancery and the House of Lords, four-seventh parts of the nctt produce of these lands, is directed to be paid, once in every five years, to the Corporation of Warwick. — The share, belonging to this borough, now amounts to ^7,000 ; and a recent letting of the estates has produced so considerable an increase of rental, that the future periodical payments to Warwick, will be upwards of ^800. — The object of this great and growing fund is to assist young tradesmen, ft inhabitants , being of good fame," setting up in business, by the free loan of ^50, on finding good security for nine years. — But owing to the smallness of the original sum, compared with the present value of money, the utility of this cha- rity is much circumscribed. The Trustees for the appro- priation of this money are the Corporation. 88 CHARITIES Oaken s Charity — Griffin's Charity. OAKEN S CHARITY. Mr. Thomas Oaken, a native of Warwick, from a low origin, by industry and success in his trade, which was that of a mercer, raised himself to a respectable rank, and acquired an affluent fortune. On his death in 1573, he left, vested in certain feoffees, several estates, situated in Warwick, Badsley, Beausall and Harbury, amounting in the whole to the value of about ^£350. Amongst the various purposes for which these estates were given, the following annual payments are some — ^£2 to a schoolmaster to teach poor children ; — ^Qa to the poor ; 6s. Sd. for a sermon ; 3s. Ad. to the poor, and 20s. for a dinner after it ; 20s. for paving the Market Place ; 5 s. towards a bonfire on St. Peter's and St. Johns day ; 3s. Ad. to the herdsman ; AQs. for four ser- mons at St. Mary's, &c. &c. After the payment of these and some other specified sums, the remainder is to be laid out, first in the repairs of the bridges and highways ; and the surplus, if any, devoted to the relief of the poor, and the improvement of the town. He left also ^10O for the purpose of enlarging the commons, and several pieces of plate, for the use of the Bailiff and Burgesses, who are his feoffees. griffin's charity. A considerable estate, situated partly at the Bridge- End, and partly at Myton, within the limits of the bo- rough, was given, for the benefit of the poor inhabitants, by Mr. R. Griffin, who was a mercer and a principal burgess. The annual value at present falls not much short of ^200. It is distributed in small sums of 10s. or 20s. at the discretion of the trustees, who are usually four respectable tradesmen. AT WARWICK. 89 Charitable Benefactions. VARIOUS CHARITIES. Besides the larger charities, just enumerated, other charitable benefactions remain to be noticed ; which may be arranged under the five following heads — for providing food and clothing for the poor— for putting out poor children apprentices — for buying coals for the use of the poor — for the relief of poor widows — and for general pur- poses of charity, at the discretion of trustees. Of the par- ticulars referred to under these general heads, an account will be found in the Appendix.* That account is taken from printed tables ; according to which, many years ago, the aggregate amount of these various charitable donations fell little short of ^300. per aim. By additional be- quests, or by improved rents, in the case of houses and lands, the annual amount is, probably, at this time, very considerably more. * Appendix, No. 5. M go CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Chapel School. CHAP* X. €Ija«taMe ^institutions?. Chapel School — School of Industry — Sunday Schools — Lying-in Charity— Okens Alms Houses — Iffeler's Alms Houses — West Gate Alms Houses ^Puckering's Alms Houses — Saltsford Alms Houses — Yard-leys Alms House — St. Mary^s Poor House — St. Nicholas* Poor House. vJ^F the various charitable institutions established and supported in Warwick, for the instruction of friendless ignorance, or for the relief of aged or helpless poverty, we propose to give some account in the present chapter. CHAPKL SCHOOL. In this small but elegant building, besides two commodious school rooms, are apartments for the resi- dence of the master and mistress. The boys, to the number, at present, of 39, are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic ; the girls, in number 36, are taught read- ing, writing, knitting, and sewing. Of these, 24 boys, and 24 girls, are indebted, for their education, to the charitabl v e bequest of the Honourable Sarah Greville ; 12 girls to that of Earl Brooke.; 13 boys to that of Mr. T. Oken, and 2 boys to that of Mr. F. Weale. The first 48 of these are clothed in a uniform dress of blue and AT WARWICK. 91 School of Industry. yellow; the 12 girls next mentioned, are clothed in grey; and the 13 succeeding boys receive a coat and a pair of stockings annually. The whole school is invited to par- take of an annual dinner, commonly called Chen's Feast, which usually takes place in the month of September. SCHOOL OF INDUSTRY. This excellent institution was established, and is still chiefly supported, under the patronage of the Coun- tess of Warwick, by the benevolent exertions and vo- luntary subscriptions of several Ladies, residing in Warwick, or its vicinity ; aided by a collection, made after an annual Charity Sermon, at St. Marys. The object of it is, to provide for the education of poor girls, and to form them to habits of virtuous order and industry. The school- room is situated in Castle-Street ; and is light and aii y. It is in the very house, formerly the residence of Mr. Oxen, so often mentioned in these pages, as one of the great benefactors of the town. The number of girls is usually about 40. They are completely clothed, and wear a uniform dress, consisting of a brown stuff gown, straw bonnet, &c. ; and are provided, at a very small charge, with a dinner, every day, at the school-room, from Michaelmas to Lady-Day. Besides reading, writing, and arithmetic, they are taught sewing of all kinds, knitting stockings, and spinning jersey and flax. Their earnings contribute to the support of the institution. They meet on the Sunday, as well as on other days, for the purpose of receiving religious instructions, and attending together divine service at St. Mary's. Four of the elder girls are employed as monitresses, nearly on the plan, first sug- gested by Dr. Bell, and afterwards adopted, enlarged, and pursued so zealously by Mr. Lancaster. m 2 92 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS Sunday Schools — Lying-in-Cha? ity. -■■' • ■ - SUNDAY SCHOOLS. These most useful and important institutions have received the same general attention, and the same zealous support at Warwick, as at so many other places through- out the kingdom — to the high honor of the present age ; and, as may reasonably and confidently be expected, to the great and lasting benefit of all future ages. Of these the first mention is due, as first in order of time, to the Sunday School belonging to St. Marys Church, in which about 65 boys and 80 girls are instructed in reading, and the great principles of religion. In this school the plan of Dr. Bell has been lately adopted with great success. — Into a second school, belonging to St. Nicholas' parish, about 30 boys and 40 girls are admitted — A third school, supported by the Presbyterian Dissenters, provides for the instruction of about 30 girls and 30 boys. — And a fourth school, belonging to the Independent Dissenters, receives no less than 120 boys and 100 girls ; all of whom are in- structed by the gratuitous services of 39 teachers. Of these thirteen attend in rotation every Sunday. — To the eye of enlightened benevolence, what a gratifying spec- tacle ! to see all the different sects, with the national establishment at their head, emulously, yet harmoniously, labouring in this great field of generous exertion, so long neglected, yet so promising of the richest fruits, in the general diffusion of useful knowledge and virtuous princi- ple, amongst the lowest, but largest, and most useful classes of the community. Prosperity to these, and to all similar institutions must surely be the ardent wish of every friend to human virtue and human happiness ! LYING-IN CHARITY, This excellent charity is of very recent institution ; but it has already found much encouraging support from AT WARWICK. 93 Oken's and Iffeler' s Alms Houses. that female compassion, in which it originated, and to which it so peculiarly and powerfully recommends it- self. The whole management of it is placed under the direction of a Patroness, and of a committee, consisting of TO Ladies, chosen annually by ballot. Its object is to pre *de relief for poor married women, residing within the borough, during the time of confinement at their own houses. Every person applying, with proper recommen- dation, is entitled to the use of a set of child-bed linen for a month ; and receives also a pound of candles, a pound of soap, and, during the winter months, two hun- dred weight of coals. A sufficient supply of caudle is also to be provided, together with proper attendance, and all necessary medical advice. — The Patroness is the Lady of the Rev. Henry Wise ; there are now about 120 mem- bers, and the subscription amounts to nearly ^300. oken's alms houses. These houses, intended for the reception of six poor women, were originally situated in Pebble Lane, now New Street, but were destroyed by the great lire. The present houses were, afterwards, erected by the feof- fees of the same charity, on the Back Hill, for which the ground was given by Mr. N. Iffeler. From six, the number is now increased to twelve poor women : each of whom receives 2s. 6d. quarterly, and a black gown once in three years. The feoffees are the members of the Corporation. iffeler's alms houses. Nicholas Iffeler, a native of Westphalia, in Germany, settled in this borough as a glazier, became a principal burgess, and acquired a good fortune. He 94 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS West. Gate Alms Houses — Puckering's Alms Houses. erected an asylum, on the Back Hill, adjoining Oken's Alms Houses, for the reception of eight poor women ; each of whom receives 2s. id. quarterly, eight hundred of coals, and a gown annually. * WEST GATE ALMS HOUSES. These were established at the same time with Leicester's Hospital : and the buildings were part of those which once belonged to the two united Guilds of the Trinity and St. George. By whom they were appropriated to their present use does not appear. Into them, eight poor women are received, to each of whom is paid Is. id. quarterly, out of the estate of Sir Thomas Puckering,^ puckering's alms houses. Of these there are two, one situated in Cow Lane, and the other in Bridewell Lane, both founded by Sir Thomas Puckering: built, as Dugdale expresses it, of fair Ashler stone. They were both intended for the accommo- dation of poor and honest tradesmen ; in order to assist and encourage that industry, on which, as the inscription || * In the front of these buildings is the following Inscription : — »« Whereas 3 Alms Houses standing in Pebble- Lane in Warwick, which received " 6 poor persons, given by Mr. Thomas Okew deceased, vterc burnt by the Dreadful «• Fire upon the bth Day of September, 1694, these Alms Houses to receive 12 persons; " were by the charity of the said Thomas Oken, built upon the ground given by Sir " Nich. Iffeler, deceased, to the same charitable office, by the Feoffees of the said *' charity, upon the %0th day of May, Anno Dom. 1696" § Of whom, see in the account of the Priory, where he resided, and where he died. || This Inscription is as follows;— " Dom iiTicuIas hasce Thomas PucKEnixc, miles et Baronettus benevolo^ ntpote ** amiciy viciivque in hune. Burgum afectu motus, (cujus mcliorem statum resqv.e secundiores * l ex animo cptit) sibique in hac parte Exccutoris munere fungi optimum rotus, dnm esset " cetatis adhuc medice, suis sumptibus in proprio fundo extrui curavit, industriaque (sine " qua urbes Burgique marcescunt) cxcitancLs, adaugendeque perpetuo dedicavit, An : " Sulutis, MDCXXXIIX." AT WARWICK. 95 Saltsford Alms Houses — Yardleys Alms House. imports, the prosperity, not only of individuals, but of whole communities, so much depends. — About fifteen years ago the second of these alms houses, standing in Bridewell Lane, were given, in exchange for some lands of equal or superior value, situated within the neighbour- ing parish of Budbroohe. SALTSFORD ALMS HOUSES. These are situated near the remains of the ancient Church of St. Michael. They are four in number ; and are inhabited by eight poor women, to each of whom an allowance of 2s. 6d. is paid quarterly. These alms houses were founded also by Sir Thomas Puckering, out of whose estates the quarterly allowances are paid. yardley's alms house. This house, situated in the Saltsford, was given by Mr. John Yardley, for the use of poor women ; four of whom are received into it. There is a good garden adjoining. The Trustees are the Minister and the Churchwardens of St. Mary's* st. mary's poor house. This is situated in the Saltsford. The premises are airy and spacious, properly and commodiously fitted up. On the ground floor, are the apartments inhabited by the Master and Mistress ; a large common room, for the use of the poor inhabitants ; a good school-room, for the children ; and various convenient offices for baking, brewing, washing, and other domestic uses. In the up- per part are the lodging rooms. Behind is a piece of ground used for drying linen ; at the extremity of which ara two workshops, one for carding and spinning, in which 96 CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, &c. St. Mary's and St. Nicholas' Poor Houses. the women are chiefly employed ; arid the other for weav- ing, in which the men are employed. Of their earnings, 2d. in every shilling is given, to encourage habits of indus- try. The whole house is kept in a state of perfect order and neatness, which does credit to the present Master and Mistress : the table is furnished with sufficient and whole- some food ; a large garden, at a small distance, affords abundant supplies of vegetables ; and, once a year, at Easter, every poor person receives a complete suit of new clothing, plain, but neat and comfortable- — almost every article of which is the produce of the manufactures, car- ried on within the house. The children are instructed in reading, and in the principles of religion ; prayers are said in the common room every evening ; and regular at- tendance is required on the public service of the Church on the Sunday. The number of poor inhabitants seldom exceeds 60, and does not often fall much short of 30. The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. ST. NICHOLAS* POOR HOUSE. This occupies a very airy situation at the extremity of the Coton End, and has a large and productive garden adjoining. The number of its inhabitants seldom exceeds 20 or 30 ; and these principally consist of women and children. They are chiefly employed in spinning. Good provision, in sufficient quantities is provided ; and every article of necessary clothing is furnished, when wanted The whole expence is paid out of the parish rates. LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 97 Present edifice anciently the mansion pf tzco united Guilds. CHAP. XI. %eitt$tet'$ f$o^itah The present edifice — anciently the mansion of two united Guilds — granted, at the general dissolution, to Sir N. Le Strange— -appropriated and endozced by Dudley Earl of Leicester, for the purpose of a Hospital — Appointment of a Master — number of members— qualifications for admis- sion — regulations — great increase in the value of its endowments — new Act of Parliament in consequence — provision made for the reception of additional members, and increase of the Masters salary — present state of the buildings — and of the chapel. _DE SIDES the various charitable institutions, already noticed, an account still remains to be given of Leicester's Hospital, one of the first in magnitude and growing importance ; which is reserved, therefore, for the subject of a distinct chapter. This very ancient building, situated at the wes- tern extremity of High-Street, appears to have been originally the hall or mansion, belonging to the two united guilds, or lay fraternities, of the Holy Trinity and St. George. These were established in the reign of Rich. II. ; the former by William Hobkins, John Cooke, and eleven others, all inhabitants of Warwick; the latter by John de Dynelay and two others, also of Warwick. They had power to purchase estates ; to re- ceive other brethren into their fraternity ; and to build and found a chantry in the chapel, which stood over the 98 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. I———.— ■ llll 1 llll I III I III III .III Appointment of Master — number of Brethren— Endowments. West Gate. The union of the two Guilds, certainly took place before the 10th of Hen. VI. ; though the precise period is not known : and in the reign of Hen. VIII. it appears, there were four priests, belonging to this frater- nity ; of whom two were employed to celebrate mass in St. Marys Church, a third in the chapel of St. Peter, and a fourth in their oAvn chapel of St. James. In the latter reign, when so many other religious institutions were dissolved, the united Guilds shared in the general fate; and, in the year 1551, their mansion was granted by Edw. VI. to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knight, and his heirs. But in the succeeding reign, it became the property of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester — whether by purchase or otherwise does not appear — by whom it was converted into an asylum or hospital, for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are called brethren, together with a master who must be a clergyman of the church of England ; and, in preference to all others, if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Mary's. The land, with which it is endowed, was at that time valued at ^20Q. per ann. but the clear annual value at present falls little short of ^2,000. The vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden is in the gift of the brethren, who have hitherto usually bestowed it upon the master. The appointment of the master and of the bre- thren is vested in the heirs general of the noble founder^ who is, at this time, John Shelly Sydney, Esq. of Penshurst Place, in the county of Kent. In filling up the vacancies, as they occur, natives, or inhabitants for five years at least, of Warwickshire and Gloucestershire, alone are eligible ; and of these the priority of choice must fall upon such as are natives or inhabitants of the LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 99 Qualifications for Admission — Internal regulations. five following places, each taken successively in the fol- lowing order — Warwick, Kenilworth, Str at ford-on- A von, Wooton-under-Edge, and Arlingham. In all cases the preference must be given to those, if any, who have been wounded or maimed in the service of their country. Every candidate must be in such circumstances of indi- gence as not to possess more than the value of ^g5 a year ; and he must, also, produce a written testimonial to his character from the minister and churchwardens of the parish, where he last resided. On their admission, all the members are required to wear an appropriate dress, con- sisting of a blue gown, with the crest of a bear and ragged staff fastened to the left sleeve : and, without this badge of distinction, they are forbidden to appear in public. — The whole institution is placed under the control of the Bishop, the Dean, and the Archdeacon of Worcester, who are the appointed visitors, and of the Recorders of Warwick and Coventry. Such were the regulations, established by the founder of Leicester's Hospital ; and these continued un- altered, till the year 1813; when, on the application of the Heir General, some important and beneficial changes were introduced by Act of Parliament. It had long been known that the clear annual rental of its estate greatly exceeded all that could be required for the comfortable support of the number of the brethren, hitherto admitted into the hospital. It had also been remarked, with regret, that the salary of the master, unalterably fixed, by the statutes of the founder, at ^50 per annum, was, for a person of the rank of a clergyman, a very inadequate provision ; though, as the original value of the estate was ^200 a-year, it was the evident intention to give one- 100 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. — — — — — — ggg — — — — — — — ■ ^— — i ——————— ——^ Increase of the Master s Salary — and of the number of Brethren, fourth of the rental, whatever might be its amount, to the master. But the introduction of the words "fifty pounds" defeated the intention ; and, according to the rules of law, left the master without the possibility of the smallest increase of income, however necessary to support the dignity of his station. To advance, therefore, the salary of the master, and to increase the number of the bre- thren, were the two great objects proposed by the new act. From the statement, laid before Parliament, it ap- pears that, after the payment of certain sums, under the head of taxes, coals, candles, kitchen expences, repairs of the hospital, and wages of the nurse, the brethren received about ^130 a year each. With a humane and generous regard to the interests of the present brethren, the act leaves them in the undisturbed possession of this large annual income ; but provides, on the admission of every new member, as vacancies occur, by death or otherwise, that the annual income of every such new member shall not exceed ^80 ; and that the surplus, being about ,^50 per annum, shall be appropriated, one moiety to the gra- dual increase of the master's salary, till it amounts to ^400 per annum ; and the other moiety to the formation of a fund for the support of additional members, who are to be admitted in succession, till the number of the whole is increased to twenty-two. The qualification of property, also, before fixed at ^5 per annum, is now very properly changed to ^50, being not more than a due proportion to the decreased value of money, and the increased pre- sent rental. After having provided for the establishment of these new and most important regulations, the act re- cites all the original statutes and ordinances of the foun- der, and declares them to be in force, and to continue so, without any abatement or variation whatever, LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. 101 Present State of the Edifice. The buildings of Leicester's Hospital, though rery ancient, as already mentioned, are still kept in good repair. They form a complete quadrangle, enclosing a court of considerable space, having a cloister or passage round two of its sides. Entering into this court, under a gate-way, the house, appropriated to the master, appears in front. This is spacious and good ; and, behind, is a large garden. On the right, are the stairs, leading to the lodgings of the Brethren ; each of whom has a sepa- rate and convenient apartment : besides which there is a large kitchen for common use. On the left, is the great hall, once the scene of splendid and even royal festivities ; which still retains striking marks of its ancient grandeur. It is, however, by the new Act of Parliament, soon to be converted to the humbler and more useful purpose of fur- nishing suitable apartments for the ten additional mem- bers. It measures 90 feet by 24 ; but, probably, once extended at each extremity much farther. There is an inscription, still preserved on one of its walls, importing that, in this hall, James I. was entertained in a manner becoming his high dignity, by Sir Fulk Greville, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Sept. 4, l6lf. Adjoining to Leicester's Hospital, and belonging to it, is St. James' Chapel. This was given by Roger de Newburg, in the reign of Hen. I. to the church of St. Mary, when it was made collegiate. It afterwards fell into disuse and decay. But in the reign of Rich. II. the advowson of it was granted * to the guild of St. George, by Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of IVarwich, who built * In this grant it is called the Church of St. James; but ufiei wards the original appellation of Chapel was resumed. 102 LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL. St. James' Chapel. the present chapel, or at least the tower of it. After the general dissolution, this Chapel, together with the Hall, and the other buildings, passed into the possession of Sir Nicholas Le Strange, and finally into that of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, by whom it was assigned to its present use. It is small, but well-proportioned and beautiful ; handsomely fitted up, and kept in the most perfect order, for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, who daily assemble here for morning and evening prayer, except on those days when service is performed at St, Mary's, where their attendance is then required. Round it, are hung the statutes of the Founder, which are ap- pointed to be publicly read once every year; and, also, on the admission of every new member.— At the eastern extremity is the Communion Table ; over which is a good picture of the Ascension, painted by Millar, a pupil of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and an artist of considerable talent and reputation. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 103 Founded prior to the Conquest— made Collegiate by H. de Ncwburg. CHAP. XII. g>u 0?arpg Cijurrf)* Early history — destruction by the great fire — re-erection— the tower— the interior — monuments in the north and south transepts — retnains of the second Thomas Beauchamp's monument — the choir — grand monument of the first Thomas Beauchamp — other monuments — the lobby — the chapter- house — monument of Fulk Lord Brooke — the vestry-room. V/F the original foundation of St. Mary's Church, there is no remaining account. It existed prior to the Norman conquest : since it is mentioned in Doomsday Book, as having one hide of land belonging to it, which was given by Turchill, the last of the Saxon Earls. The design of making it collegiate, with a dean and secu- lar canons, was formed by Henry de Newburg, first Earl of the Norman Line ; and it was afterwards carried into execution by his son Roger, the second Earl of the same line. This took place in 1123, the 23d of Hen. I. when the other churches were united to it. During the reign of Edward III. the present choir was founded by the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick ; and, in 1394, the whole body of the Church was rebuilt by his second son, Thomas, who, on the death of his eldest brother succeeded to the Earldom. In the same reign, by an ecclesiastical decree, as already men- tioned, divine service was discontinued in ihc other 104 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Supposed ancient relics — Destruction by Fire. — -- churches ; and all the inhabitants were ordered to repair for their devotions to this church, and that of St. Nicho- las only. Of Valuable relics, as they were esteemed, in the days of superstition, few religious edifices possessed more than St. Mary a. Amongst many others were the follow- ing — part of the chair of the patriarch Abraham — part of the burning bush of Moses-— part of the hair of the Blessed Virgin — part of the manger in which the infant Jesus was laid — part of the pillar to which he was fas- tened, when scourged — part of his crown of thorns — part of his cross — part of the towel in which his body was wrapt by Nicodemus — part of the hair of Mary Mag- dalen — part of the face of Stephen.* It has been already mentioned that, at the general dissolution, this Church, together with that of St. Nicho- las, was granted, by letters patent, bearing date May 15, 1546, to the inhabitants of Warwick, and their succes- sors. It was then valued at ^333 2s. Ad. Out of this sum, were paid the stipends of the several officers, em- ployed in the celebration of divine service ; which then consisted of a dean, six canons, ten priests, and six choristers. In 1694 great part of the Church was destroyed by the dreadful fire, so often mentioned in the course of this work. Though the progress of the devouring flames was stopped before they reached this noble edifice ; yet unhappily the fire was communicated, by means of some * V. Dugdale's Warw. org. E. p. 306. ST. MARYS CHURCH. 105 He-erection after a design of Sir C. Wren. half-burnt goods inadvertently deposited within it, as a place of safety. Mbst fortunately, the venerable choir, and the exquisitely beautiful chapel, on the south side, together with the chapter-house, the lobby, and the vestry- room, on the north, escaped uninjured. The erection of the new portion of this edifice, as it now appears, was completed in the year 1704 ; and the expence defrayed partly by royal bounty, but chiefly by public liberality. The architecture is a singular, and in- deed absurd mixture of different modes ; and yet the design of it is attributed to no less a person than Sir Christopher Wren. It is well known, however, that most of the walls in the body of the church were, after the fire, left standing ; and that these were repaired, and the tower erected, by John Smith, an architect of some note at Warwick. But whether the plan, he adopted, was, in whole, or in part, the work of that consummate master of his art, just mentioned, one would be strongly inclined to doubt. * Certain, at least, it is, that the utter incon- sistency of the newly erected with the old remaining part ;§ that the strange violation of all architectural rule in the formation of the great windows, with their double row of cumbrous Saxon arches, terminated above by such grotesque and barbarous forms as were never before • The fact, however, must not be concealed, that in the Library of All Saints College, Oxford, amongst the architectural drawings and designs of Sir C. Wren, is the design of Warwick Church. § What will be said to the following account of Mr Gilpin ? " The Church is " an elegant Gothic structure. A considerable part of it was lately destroyed : but it "is rebuilt with great symmetry." North. Tour, v. i. p. 37. — Surely so accmate an ob- server and so excellent a judge could* not have seen what he pretended to desciibe; or else, what he had seen, he must afterwards have totally forgotten ! Never were- three words — elegant— gothrc — symmetry — so strangely misused. O 106 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. — ■■■ ■■■- - »'■' ■ ■ ' ■ ' ■ !'.■ ■—■« ■■■ «* Prinapal Entrance — Interior. seen ; and that the jumbling mixture of round and pointed arches in the tower, discover little of that taste and judgment, which usually display themselves in the other works of one of the first and greatest of British architects.* But notwithstanding these great faults, upon the whole, St. Mary's Church presents the appearance of & handsome and stately pile. The tower in particular is finely proportioned : and, from a base of 36 feet square, rises to the lofty height of 130 feet, with uncommon beauty and grace. It is built on four groined arches ; and contains within it ten bells and chimes. Those, whose curiosity may lead them to ascend to the summit of this tower, while the bells are ringing, will perceive in the surprising degree of vibratory motion, communicated to the whole body of it, a proof of its true and excellent workmanship. INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH. Under the tower is the principal entrance intfr the interior of the church ; and from this point, the view down the middle aisle, through the chancel, terminated by the east window, is strikingly grand. The whole length is 186 feet : and the breadth, measured along the transept, 106 feet. * It 'swell known that Sir C. Wren entertained strong prejudices against the ancient ecclesiastical architecture of this country. In his admiration of the regular proportions and exquisite symmetry of the classical buildings of antiquity, he was led ta despise the bold and grand irregularities of the ancient English style ; by him, first, named Gothic, an epithet, intended to convey ideas of ignorance and barbarism. That Sir C. When did not well understand this style of building, is evident, amongst other instances, from the incongruous manner, in which he finished the towers of Westminster Abbey. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 107 Middle Aisle — Monuments in the JVW*/t Transept. At the entrance of the middle aisle, is the baptis- mal font; of marble ; and above, is a loft, containing the large and excellent Organ, built by Swarebrick, and lately removed from the eastern extremity : by which judicious alteration, the fine view just mentioned, down the "long drawn aisle" is left uninterrupted and uninjured. The galleries are spacious and regular, and the whole interior is commodiously and handsomely fitted up. One arrangement deserves notice, as removing a serious in- convenience, frequently complained of, in attending pla- ces of worship, during wet or wintry seasons. At the four extremities of the principal aisle, four large stoves are placed, concealed under the form of urns, standing on pedestals. The monuments in the body of the church, are chiefly to be seen in the north and south transepts. They are not very numerous, nor, with one or two exceptions, very remarkable ; as might, indeed, be expected, when it is remembered that all the ancient monuments were destroyed by the great fire, of which few have been re- placed by others. In the north transept are the six following marble monuments, each with a Latin inscription — one, to the memory of John Gibbon, of a good family, in Stafford- shire, 1693, — another to the memory of Will. Johnson, Physician, of Warwick, and Anne, his wife, who bequeathed all her estates to charitable uses 1 7 33 — a third, to the memo- ry of Francis Charrocke, of an ancient and honorable family in Bedfordshire, lf2J, — a fourth, remarkable for its quaintness, to the memory of Francis Holyoak, and several of his family, 1730; some of whom were consi- o 2 108 ST, MARY'S CHURCH. Monuments in the South Transept. derable scholars ; and one of whom was master of Rugby School, for the long space of 43 years — a fifth, to ths memory of Thos. Hewitt, 1735, prepared by himself, ju- dicious and impressive in its topics ; and, for its latinity, one of the best, though not quite faultless— -and a sixth, to the ancient family of Staunton of Longbridge, within the precincts of the borough 177 8 - I n this transept is, also, a marble monument to the memory of George and Mary Webb, 1743 : and another, more remarkable than all for its singularity, and its antiquity, to the memory of Thomas and Joan Oken, with their portraitures in brass, 1573.* To this monument, damaged by the fire, a marble tablet has been added by his feoffees, with a long inscription, commemorating the private worth, the public honors, and the charitable bequests, of that distinguished benefactor of his native town. In the south transept, are three marble monuments, one, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of Will. Viner, the honored and faithful steward, for 40 years, of the celebrated Fulk Lord Brooke, 1 639,- -the se- cond, also, with a Latin inscription, to the memory of John Norton, deputy recorder of Warwick; and several of his family, 1709-^and the third, with an English in- scription, to the memory of Henry Beaufoy, Esq. of Edmonscott, in this county ; one of whose daughters was married to Sir Samuel Garth, distinguished as a poet of some eminence ; and, still more, as an enlightened, an active and benevolent physician. The two last were erected in the place of others destroyed by the fire. * The inscription is as follows, " Of your charyte give thanks for the sooles of " Thomas Oken and Jone his Wyff; on whose souls Jesus has mercy; Jestjs ha,3 ♦'mercy — Amen — Remember the charyte of the poor for ever, iiDLxxni." ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 109 Monument of the Second Thomas Beauchamp, Ecrl of Warwick. But in this transept, are to be seen the small remains of a most splendid monument, which will attract particular attention. It was erected to the memory of Thos. Beau- champ, second Earl of that name, and Margaret Ferrers, his wife, daughter of Lord Ferrers. The original monument,* which stood near the present, was an altar tomb, surmounted with a rich canopy, forming a half subast arch, adorned with the arms of Beauchamp and Ferrers. The long, pompous, and wretchedly af- fected Latin inscription, put up by the Parliamentary Commissioners, in 1706, is a perfect contrast to the con- ciseness and simplicity of the ancient, which, also in Latin, may be thus translated — " Here lies Thomas " Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, who died Ap. 8, 1401, ''and Margaret his wife, who died Jan. 22, 1409. God ^ be merciful to their souls!" The present monument consists only of the brass plate, § which was taken out of the ashes after the great fire, and fixed against the east wall. On it are two effigies. One represents the Earl in plated armour, with a mail gorget, wearing a helmet, with a fronton of square studds. On his armour are two armorial bearings ; at his side, are a sword and dagger ; and at his feet, is a bear lying. The other represents his lady, wearing a kirtle, with long mitten sleeves, charged with her family arms, and a mantle, on which are those of her husband. Her hair is bound with a fillet ; and at her left foot, is a dog, looking up. Upon the upper border of the plate, were * A Print of it may be seen in Dcodale's Wario. : and in Gough's Deicrip- tion of the Beauchamp Chapel. $ See an exact representation of it in Gough's Descnption, affording two of the finest specimens of sepulchral sculp- ture in the kingdom. THE CHOIR. Ascending three steps, through handsome portals of iron, is the entrance into The Choir. This, as already mentioned, is a part of the ancient church, which escaped the destructive fire of 1694 ; and it remains, a noble specimen of all that characteristic grandeur and beauty which marked what is called the gothic, or, more properly, the pointed architecture, prevalent in the fourteenth and two following centuries. Scarcely can even the most insensible spectator here enter, and look around, without feelings of awe, mingled with delight. There are four floors, ascending one step above another, towards the altar. On each side, are two ranges of stalls, in four divisions. The roof will particularly arrest attention. It See an account of him, p. St. ST. MARTS CHURCH. Ill Monume-it of the First Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. I. 111 ■ ass is of stone, lofty in elevation; and, at once, novel and pleasing in design. The intervals between the ribs, that branch from the pillars towards the center, are left unfil- led; and thus a kind of open work is formed, of which the effect is singularly striking. The arms of the founder, impaled with those of his wife are here seen, richly carved and surrounded with seraphim. There are four windows of four days, on each side. These were formerly enrich- ed with painted glass, exhibiting the portraits and the arms of the Beauchamp family, which have long since disappeared.* The east window is large and grand ; but the fine effect of it is greatly impaired by the painted glass with which it is disgraced ; § representing, indeed, various subjects of sacred history, baton a scale so diminu- tive, that even the more prominent figures can scarcely be distinguished at the distance, whence they must neces- sarily be seen. The altar, itself, is also modern and mean, utterly inappropriate to the venerable antiquity and grandeur of the structure, in which it is placed. In the middle of the Choir, lie buried, its founder, Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of JVarwich,\\ and his wife Lady Catherine Mortimer, under a massive tomb, of the altar kind, formed of composition of plaister, and suiTounded with a cornice, which is also composition, in beautiful imitation of marble ; the ground grey, with yel- * Engravings of all these may be seen in Dugdale's Warw. § It is much to be wished that, availing themselves of the talents of such artists, as Mr. Lowe, of Handsworth, or Mr. Rathael Egginton, of Birmingham, the Corporation would employ a part of their ample funds in procuring a new east win- dow, adapted to the peculiar magnificence of the Ckuncel, and the general solemnity of the whole adjoining edifice. !J See an account of this Earl, p. 30. 112 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monument of the First Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. low and white stripes. The whole monument is pro- nounced, by that distinguished antiquary Mr. Gough, to be one of the most elegant and beautiful of its kind, in the kingdom ; and has suffered much less, as he remarks, from the injuries of time and accident, than might have been expected. On the slab, are placed two white marble statues, of the Earl and his Countess, finely executed, in recumbent postures, the heads resting on pillars, a female watching at each, a lamb lying at the feet of one, and a bear at those of the other. The EaiTs figure is habited in armour, with a gorget of mail, wearing a pointed hel- met, studded round, except in the front. The inside of the upper half of the sleeve is mail ; the outside plated armour. His armorial bearings are painted on his breast and waist. His left hand, covered with a gauntlet, rests on his sword ; his right uncovered, clasps the right hand of his consort, whose left hand is on her breast— a pleasing emblematical representation of fond and faithful affection^ She is dressed in a mantle and petticoat, with sleeves below her wrists buttoned: and the lacing of her close gowri, extends below her girdle, like Queen Phillippa's in Westminister Abbey. Her head-dress is reticulated. — Round the sides and ends of this tomb, are thirty- six figures, male and female, alternately ; representing, ac- cording to Mr. Gough,* the relations of the Earl. Under them are coats of arms, of which the bearings are defaced. Of the remaining monuments within the choir, one near the altar, is very deserving of notice. It is of highly* polished alabaster, supported by Corinthian pillars ; with a Latin inscription, long and cumbersome, to the memory Ssk his description of «ach. App, No. 6. ST. MARY'S CHURCH. 113 Monuments in the Chancel. of Sir Thomas Puckering, Knt. and Bart.* youngest but only surviving son of John Puckering, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, who lived at the Priory, and died there, March 20, 1636. Below this, on a fiat stone, are affixed three brass plates, inscribed to the memory of Cisseley, second daughter of Sir Thomas ; the first simply recording her parentage and early death ; the second containing an anagram on her name ; and the third an epitaph in verse ; of which the last is written quaintly, and the second, not quite consistently with rule. On the south side, fixed to a slab of marble, is a rhyming epitaph, to the memory of Elizabeth Chow, 1597 : and on the same side, are two elegant modern tablets, one to the memory of William and Mary Hiorne ; the other to that of Francis Hiorne, of War- ivick, an architect of considerable merit, amongst whose various works, the church of Tetbury, in Gloucestershire, and that of Stony Stratford, in Buckinghamshire, are particularly admired. On the floor, also, are many other memorials of the dead, little remarkable : and underneath it, is a capacious vault, commonly called the bone house, chiefly used as a burial place for the mayors, and other members of the body corporate. Within the choir, were buried, William Parr, Marquis of Northampton, brother of Queen Catherine Parr, and John Rous, the celebrated antiquary of Guys Cliff. Bat of these, all memorials have perished ; as also of some other distinguished persons, who were interred * See some notice of hira in the Account of the Priory, P 114 ST. MARY'S CHURCH. Monuments in the Lobby. either here, or within the hody of the church, Dean Berkeswell arid Allstree, executors to Earl Richard, under whose direction the Lady's Chapel was built; Dean Hasely, schoolmaster to Henry VII.; and Thomas Cartwright, first master of Leicester's Hospital. North of the choir, is an ancient and substantial building, formerly belonging to the religious fraternity of deans and canons, first established here in the reign of Henry II. It consists of three distinct apartments, the lobby, the chapter house, and the library or vestry room. THE LOBBY. This apartment, nearest to the body of the church, is now chiefly used as an engine house — But here is to be seen a monumental tablet, well deserving a more conspi- cuous situation, It is of marble, charged with an inscrip- tion, pleasingly and not inelegantly written in Latin, to the memory of Francis Parker, who served in the several capacities of tutor, secretary, and steward, to Lords Fran- cis, Robert, and Fulke Brooke, for the long space of 45 years, and died Nov. 10, l6<)3. By an ancestor of the present Earl, this handsome monument was erected, in the spirit of grateful and respectful regard, to the memory of an old and faithful servant : and in the same spirit, the present Earl has erected near it, a sepulchral tablet of marble, to the memory of one of his own domestics, John Bayley, who after a long course of honest and active service, ended a worthy and useful life, Sept. 15, 1792. chapter-house. This second, or middle apartment, is of an octago- nal form, and was originally the place, as its name imports, where the dean and canons held their assemblies. The ST. MARYS CHURCH. 115 Chapter- House — Monument of Lord Brooke — Vestry. seats around it still remain. But, in the reign of James I. it was converted by Fulke Lord Brooke, into a mausoleum for himself and his family. The vast, heavy, but sumptuous monument, to be seen here, was erected by himself, in his life-time. It is of black and white marble. The design is a sarcophagus, placed under a sort of massy canopy, doubly arched, supported by Corinthian pillars, and surmounted by pyramidical ornaments. In large let- ters, running round the cornice, is the following inscription, remarkable at once, for simplicity, conciseness, and dignity. t. Sharp's! Cljajpd. Entrance — interior — altar-piece — great east window — monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick — of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester — of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick — of Robert, his infant son — and of Lady Catherine Lewison — supposed Library of Rous — the chantry — the confessional — west room — exterior of the ChapeL JB ROM the south transept of St. Mary's Church, is the principal entrance into the Lady's ChapeL This is formed by a grand frontispiece, in the gothic style, design- ed and finished in the common sand stone of Warwick, by a poor mason of the town, in 1704; whose name, it is discreditable to say, is no where recorded, nor even re- membered. INTERIOR. Descending a flight of stone steps, through fold- ing doors, opens, to the astonished and delighted gaze, the interior of this beautiful and magnificent structure, justly pronounced to be one of the finest specimens of gothic architecture in the kingdom ; or even, as some good judges have said, in Europe. It is in that pointed style of the middle order, which is considered by some as the most perfect; and which chiefly prevailed at the time in which it was built. It was begun in 1443, according to the di- 118 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, Interior, rection of the will of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, by his executors, Lords Cromwell, and Tip- toff ; John Throckmorton, Richard Curson, Thomas Huggeford, William Berkeswell, priest, and Nicho- las Rody, his steward. It was not finished till 146*4, twenty-one years after its commencement ; and cost, in-* eluding the Earl's monument, ag2481. equal at present to ^40,000.* Proceeding through the entrance—on each side appear, the ranges of stalls, in four divisions. The seats have on their backs, twelve blank shields, in quatre foils. On the edges of the eastern seats, are a lion, a griffin, a bear muzzled and collared ; on the western, a lion, griffin, hear and lion ; and on the northern, a griffin, lion, bear. The knobs on the sides of the stalls have ragged staves, an angel holding arms cheque a chevron Erm, a griffin collared and chained, a bear and staff, staves, acorns, &c. The floors are of black and white marble, four in number, of unequal sizes, ascending one step above another towards the altar. The ceiling is of stone richly carved, ornamented with shields, charged with the arms of the old Earls of Warwick single, and those of Warwick and Beauchamp quartered; but is greatly injured, in its effect, by the gaudy colouring of the painter. There are three windows on each side, of six days. Under the south win- dows are seven flat niches, of which the upper half is tracery, divided from the lower half by an embattled fascia, and under the north windows are five niches. * According to the calculation of the intelligent and ingenious traveller, Mtf* Wardw.— Ncrthtrn Tour, Vol. 2. p» 265. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 119 Altar-Piece — Great East Window. On each side the haut-pas, or highest step towards the altar, is a desk furnished with two steps. The altar- piece is a fine bas-relief of The Salutation, modern, design- ed by Lightoler, and executed by Collins. It is placed under a gothic canopy, between two shrines, of which the appearance is little in harmony with that of the surround- ing structure. Raised high against the wall, on each side the altar, is a shrine, highly and elegantly wrought, though injured by the daubings of the painter ; in which, according to Dugdale, were formerly placed two images of pure gold, each of 20lb. weight. On each side of the west entrance, is a beautiful slender niche : and over the door, is an intended organ loft, of which the front, is ornamented with shields in quatre foils, with a rich fascia of vine-leaves and grapes, and another of roses above it. In the centre of both ^re the arms of Beauchamp, quartering cheque or and az, a chevron JErm, being the arms of the old Earls of War- wick ; and on a shield of pretence, the arms of Fitzwalter quartering those of Despenser : the whole is supported by an angel. On each side the door is a fascia of great and small oak leaves, in which are introduced a rose, a griffin 7 flowers, lion, horse, two bears supporting a shield, two ragged staves and a vine branch. It cannot be sufficiently regretted that the window over this entrance is glazed with modern sash square, and is, in every respect, discord- ant with the architecture of the Chapel. The great eastern window, over the altar, still in a good state of preservation, is composed of two mould- ings, surrounding a central compartment, divided into three davs of two stories,; the whole of which is filled with 120 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Richard Beauchamp y Earl of Warwick. ' ' ' "' • painted glass, representing numerous figures, coats of arms, and various devices, with names and broken sentences in-* terspersed. Of these a minute account is given by Mr. Gough, from which an extract will be found in the Ap- pendix.* In the north and south windows, there is no paint- ed glass except in the tracery ; and these are damaged and indistinct. The figures appear, however, to have been angels, playing on musical instruments. Those in the centre of the north window, robed and playing on musical instruments, are peculiarly fine. Broken sentences and musical instruments are interspersed. Having attempted some account of this small but most beautiful chapel — we proceed to describe the stately and elegant monument of its founder, Rich. Beau champ ; for the reception of which it was expressly designed. This is an altar tomb of grey marble, placed near the centre of the chapel. On the slab lies the figure of the Earl, iri brass gilt, large as life, and inferior to none in England, except that of Hen. VII. in Westminster Abbey. It is placed on a table of the same metal, and is protected by a herse of brass hoops gilt. The hair is short and curled ; and the head rests on a helmet, encircled with a coronet. The hands are elevated, but not joined. The body is clad in plate armour, and the sword hangs at the left side. At the feet are a griffin and a bear muzzled, both sitting. At the extremities of the poles of the herse, are enamelled shields, pendant from oak leaves, in starred quatre foils. Four of these shields, at each end, have the Beauchamp Arms quartered with those of the old Earls ; * Appendix, No. 7. ST MARYS CHAPEL. 12 1 Monument of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. and a shield of pretence, charged with three chevroneb, and a fret quarterly, the last of which is the Despensers arms. At the eastern extremity of the middle pole, are the arms of England and France ; and at the western, SL Georges Cross. The niches, or housings, which surround this tomb, are exceedingly rich and beautiful. They are fourteen in number ; and in them are placed elegant statues, in copper gilt, male and female,- all of them representing noble per- sonages, and relations of the founder.* Underneath are their coats of arms* enamelled on shields, in starred quatre foils. They are divided by smaller niches, in which are whole length figures of angels, holding scrolls, supported on perks. On the scrolls are inscribed "sit Deo laas et gloria : defunctis misericordia" The inscription in old English, comprised in two lines, is let into the upper ledge of the tomb, and is whim- sically interspersed throughout, with the bear and ragged staff, which occurs not less than 40 times. It imports that "Richard, Earl of Warwick, after a long illness, died at the castle of Rouen, in Normandy, where he resided as Lieutenant-General of France, during the minority of Henry VI. ; that his body, deposited in a stone coffin, was brought over to England, and conveyed with funeral pomp to Warwick ; that it was placed near the monument of his father, till the chapel was finished ; and that, finally, it was interred beneath the tomb prepared for it, according to the direction of his will, 1460.J * See Appendix, No. 8- "{ See the Ilistcrj of 'bis Earl, p. 3>2. 122 ST. MARTS CHAPEL. Monument of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. ■'■'■■' - ■ i mB& sss s& Sz .■ ■ . ^g About the middle of the 17th century, the floor of the chapel fell in; when Earl Richard's coffin, being either accidentally broken, or purposely unclosed, the body was found perfect and fresh : but on letting in the air, it rapidly fell to decay. The Ladies of Warwick had rings and other ornaments made of the hair. Besides the tomb of its founder, there are, in this chapel, three other splendid monuments, of which the first in order of time, is that of Robert Dudley, Earl of Lei- cester, the favourite of Queen Elizabeth, which stands against the north wall. It consists of four Corinthian pillars, supporting an entablature, placed over an arch, adorned in front with a rich fascia, formed by cinque foils and the ragged staif, alternately disposed. Above the entablature, is a grand atchievement in the centre; and on each side, a kind of pyramidical temple, before which, stand a male figure on the right, and a female on the left. Just below the arch, on a table of marble, recline the statue of the Earl, in his coronet, clad in armour, covered with a mantle, and that of his Countess Lady Letitia, daughter of Sir Francis Knolles, in her coronet and mantle of ermine. The hands of both are elevated. These statues are finely sculptured ; but the appearance of the whole monument is ostentatiously massy, without elegance of design, or proportion of parts. Within the arch, are sixteen flags, charged with as many armorial bearings. On the key stone, appears a cinque foil Erm. ; in the spandrils of the arch, and under each pair of pillars, the arms of Dudley impaling Knolles. In front of the tomb, the arms of Dudley again appear in quartering*. The atchievement over the entablature, pre- ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 123 Monument of Robert Dudley* Earl of' Leicester. sents the arms of Dudley with quarterings impaling Knnlles, encircled by the garter, supported by two lions rampant, and surmounted by a crest, the bear and ragged staff, between two other crests, and a lion's head issuing from a helmet. Over these arms, is a cinque foil Erm. and above all, the bear and ragged staff. Under the arch of this grand monument, is placed a Latin inscription, which proclaims the honors bestowed, witb profusion, but without discernment, upon the royal favorite, who owed his fortune solely to his personal attractions, for of moral worth or intellectual ability, he had none. Respecting his two great military employments, here so pompously set forth, prudence might have recom- mended silence : since, on one occasion, he acquired no glory, as he had no opportunity ; and, on the other, the opportunity he had, he lost, and returned home, covered with deep and deserved disgrace. That he should be ce- lebrated, even on a tomb, for conjugal affection and fidelity, must bethought still more remarkable by those who recol- lect that, according to every appearance of probability, he poisoned his first wife ; disowned his second ; dishonored his third, before he married her ; and, in order to marry her, murdered her former husband. To all this it moy be added, that his only surviving son, an infant, was a natural child, by Lady Sheffield. If his widowed countess did really mourn, as she here affects, it is believed that into no other eye but her's, and perhaps that of his infatuated Queen, did a single tear stray, when Sept. 4, 1588, he ended a life — of which the external splendor, and even the affected piety, and ostentatious charity, in vain, endeavours to conceal or soften the black enormity of its guilt and shame. o. 2 124 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. Monument of Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick. To the memory of the Countess herself, Lady Letitia, relict of Walter Devereux, Earl of Essex, is hung against the wall, a wooden tablet, containing a long string of jingling couplets, replete with pun and quibble, which come, however, from the pen of Gervas Clifton, a poet of some consideration in his day. To understand the last line, it is necessary to be known, that she died on the morning of Christmas Day, 1634. At the head of Earl Richard's monument, stands that of Ambrose Dudley, brother of Robert, but of far higher and purer character. He was usually known by the honorable appellation of the good Earl of Warwick ; and to a certain degree, he was great as well as good. His monument is an altar tomb of beautiful marble. On the slab, lyipg in full stature, is the EaiTs figure ; clothed in armour, with a mantle thrown over it. His head, en- circled with a coronet, reclines on a mat, rolled up; his hair, short and curled, and beard long. At his feet, lies a bear collared and muzded. The sculpture is a good specimen of ancient art. Round this monument, are shields, with armorial bearings,* finely executed : and under the slab, is an English inscription — setting forth his birth and claims, as the surviving son of John, Duke of Northumberland; recounting the progress of his honors, successively be^ stowed by his Queen, the reward of great and real merit ; and finally closing with the account of his death, at Bedford House, Feb. 2], 1589, in consequence of a wound he received in the service of his country, though * For a description of thesr, see Appendix, No.- 9. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 125 Monument of Robert, son of Robert, Earl of Leicester. that honorable circumstance, is here modestly suppressed. According to his own desire, his body was conveyed for interment in this place, where the present monument was erected by his surviving Countess. Near the altar, against the south wall, is the monument of Robert, infant son of Robert, Earl of Leicester. It is an altar tomb, the slab supported by four Corinthian pillars, on which lies the figure of a child, dressed in a coat and mantle. His head, bound round with a double row of pearls, rests on a cushion ; and at his feet, is a bear chained. Above the tomb, against the walls, are the arms of Dudley, with the quarterings, and on each side, the bear and staff. Around the sloping mouldings, are ragged staves ; belov/ which, at each corner, and in the centre, are cinque foil Erm. On the front, an inscription appears, in English, to admit a view of which, the shaft of a Corinthian pillar, is represented, aukwardly enough, as broken off and removed, leaving both the base and the capital behind. This inscription declares the relationship of the infant, or, as it is here expressed, "the impe," with all the noble personages whose dust lie near, unconsciously mingled with the common earth. One remaining monument, requires still to be noticed. It is a marble tablet, placed over the north entrance, against the wall, inscribed to the memory of Lady Catherine, wife of Sir Richard Lewison, of Trentham, Staffordshire, grand-daughter of Robert, Earl of Leicester : to whose generous cares, as the inscription informs, we are indebted for the admirable state of pre- servation, in which this ancient fabric itself, and the precious remains of old English sculpture it contains, now 12S ST. MARYS CHAPEL. Monument: of Lady Lewison — Rous' supposed Library. appear. For the purpose of necessary repairs, she gave during her life, ^50 ; and left after her death, ^40 per annum, to be paid out of the manor of Foxley, North- amptonshire* Sir William Dugdale, the celebrated antiquary, is said, by his representations, to have prompted this bequest ; of which, himself and his heirs, conjointly with the Mayor of Warwick, were made trustees for ever. We cannot conclude the account of this beautiful and venerable structure, without uniting our expressions of deep regret, with those of every judicious spectator, that a chaster mode of restoring the beauty of the interior had not been adopted, when, about thirty years since, it was put into a state of complete repair. Nor can we yet con- sent to relinquish the earnest wish, expressed moie than fourteen years ago, by Mr. Ireland, and since repeated by many others, though it still remains ungratified, that the gaudy colours of the painter may be entirely removed, and the whole restored to its primitive simplicity and elegance ! ROUS' SUPPOSED LIBRARY. To the left of the altar, a door opens into a small room, which is commonly supposed to be the library built by the celebrated John Rous ; but upon the authority of Leland, and after him of Dugdale, we may venture to say, that this supposition is erroneous ; for, by them, it is expressly said, that this library was built over the south porch of St. Marys Church* * Bibliothccam etiam instituit in ipsa australi porticu fani Marise Warwici. — Let. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL. 127 » — —^— — ri— i— — — — — — ^— — — ■ I ■ ■ I—— — — a— III II II — — H— — WI MI T ill . The Chantry — tlte Confessional. THE CHANTRY. On the north side of the Lady's Chapel, ascending by four steps, is the Chantry. This is a small room 18 feet by 8, paved with red and black glazed tiles. The roof is formed by pendant capitals. On the south side are three grated windows, looking into the Chapel : near one of which is a small basin, about six inches in the diameter, with a small orifice at bottom, and a shaft, intended per- haps for holy water. At the east end is the scite of an altar, under the window, with a fascia of lozenge work ; and over it a lion's face and a Beauchamp cross. On each side, is a very fine niche, Avith pedestals. In this window, on painted glass, appears a scroll, held, by a hand reversed, inscribed with imperfect sentences. THE CONFESSIONAL. On the north side of the Chantry, ascending by four well-worn steps, is a small apartment, called the Confessional. The roof is fan fashioned with a central slip of quatre foils. There are three north windows, grated and closed, by sliding shutters, pierced in the gothic manner. At the eastern extremity is the confessional seat : near which is an oblique aperture, opening into the choir of St. Marys, through which according to common report, confession was made. Bat it is doubted by several anti- quarians, whether this room was ever used for any such purpose. The situation so near the Choir and the high altar, they observe, was a very unusual place for re- ceiving confessions. Besides, confessionals were nothing more than small moveable desks ; and, in the present case, confessions, if made at all, must have been made to one of the Chantry Priests — contrary to prevail- ing practice. The grated windows are singular; but the 128 ST. MARY'S CHAPEL, West Boom — Exterior of the Chapel. oblique aperture was intended, they assert, for the pur- pose of enabling the chantry priest to see the high altar, at the time when the host was elevated. THE WEST ROOM. To the west of the confessional, on the same floor y is a passage, in which are four seats ; and opposite to them, the upper part of a window, closed ap, as if once opening into St Mary's Choir, This passage leads to a western room, nearly of the same size as the chantry ; the floor of which is paved with red and yellow tiles, and the roof is formed with pendant capitals. On the south, are three grated windows, looking into the chapel ; and oppo- site, the upper part of a window closed, similar to that in the passage. EXTERIOR OF THE CHAPEL. After this account of the interior, we must not omit to mention that a view of the exterior, will exquisitely gratify the admirer of ancient architecture. Under the three southern windows, are flat niches ; and above them is a fascia, formed of blank shields and oak leaves, dispo- sed alternately. The flying buttresses are richly ornamen- ted. At the extremities of these are niches, with pedestals for images : on the sides, are four small pinnacles, and a large one rises and crowns the whole. The east window is grand, and the tracery beautiful.— Above this window, are three niches, occupied by as many figures ; that of the virgin, in the middle, seated, and her infant child, reclining on her lap ; and on each side, are two male figures robed. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 129 Early His tort/. CHAP. XIV. Early History— present Structure— the Touer—the Interior— the Monuments — Vicars since the Revolution, VV HEN the Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was ori- ginally founded, is entirely unknown. There is reason, how- ever, to believe, that it existed, as a religious edifice of some description, prior to the Norman conquest. For, accord- ing to Rous, the Chancel of the Church, in his time, was more anciently the Choir to the House of Num, who oc- cupied the ground on which it stood, and much of the surrounding land, as far, in one direction, as St. John's Hospital. This very ancient Nunnery was destroyed by Canute, the Dane, 101 6. Yet, it should seem, it was afterwards rebuilt; since the town of Clopton was expressly granted* to the Nuns residing here, by Henry De New- burg, the first of the Norman Earls. After this time, however, as a Nunnery, it did not long subsist. For, by FiOGER, the second Norman Earl, 1123, it was granted, under the name of the Church of St. Nicholas, to the fraternity of Deans and Canons, lately established at St. Mary's. Dpgd.ue's Worxickthi e, pag" 336. Jones' Edit. \76l Ft 130 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. . i. u iiii I I ir n i — — — l| t ill i i II Present Structure. From that time, two Priests were appointed, by the Deans and Canons, with fixed salaries, to conduct the rsligious services of the place, to one of whom, the charge of all the inhabitants, on the north side of the Bridge was committed ; and those on the south side, to the other. But, in progress of time, these salaries were injuriously withheld; and, by the interference of Tideman, Bishop of Worcester, in 1401, instead of the former arrange- ment, a vicarage was established here, to which a certain proportion of tithes was appropriated. At the time of the general dissolution, this Church was granted, by royal authority, to the Burgesses of Warwick, and their suc- cessors for ever. The present Church is a recent stricture — of which the design is greatly and justly censured — as exhibiting a lamentable specimen of modern gothic. It is, indeed, a wretched jumble of different styles; and,, in no part,, discovers a single instance of correct taste or judgment. The windows must strike every eye as disproportionably large, so as to give to the whole exterior, that lanthorn appearance, which some have strangely affected to ad- mire:* whilst the excessive glare within, is very different from " the dim religious light," which is so truly described by Milton, as best suited to a place of worship, and is, indeed, so awfully striking in most of our ancient eccle- siastical edifices. The old tower, found to be in a ruinous state, so long ago as 1748, was then taken down; and, on its scite, was erected, by Johnson, an architect of Warwick, the present tower, deformed by misshapen windows, and crowned with a spire, which, in * See Mu.nsr's Eccles. Architect- p. 1 14 and 333. ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 13 1 Tower — Interior — Monuments. itself,* is never well adapted to Gothic structures, and which, in the present instance, from the want of due elevation, has lost its just proportion. In course of time, the body of the Church began to discover the decays of age; and, in 1779? that too was taken down. In its place, arose the present edifice, built under the direction of Job Collins, an architect also of JVarwich ; and it is for ever to be re- gretted, that a plan, so totally devoid of merit, should have been chosen in preference to another, far superior, which was offered at the same time by Francis Hiorne, whose name has already been mentioned with respect in these pages. — The Church was finished, and opened for divine service, Sept. 17. 17 80. At the west end, are the two principal entrances into the Interior of the Church, which is neat and com- modious ; and, during the winter season, is kept dry and warm, by means of two large stoves, in the shape of urns. The monuments within this Church are neither numerous nor remarkable. Of these, two erected in the vestry, and one in the body of the Church, are dedicated to the me- mory of several individuals of the family of Stoughton, who were formerly seated at Stoughton, in Surrey, and who trace their descent to a Norman ancestor, so far back as the Conquest. One of these is dated \666 ; the other two are without dates. A fourth monument, is in- scribed to the memory of Katherine, daughter of Sir G. Tipping, Bart, of Dray cot, Oxon, who married into * Even Salisbury Spire, though one of the loftiest and finest structures of tlie kind in England, will scarcely be admired, considered as an appendage to a noble Gothic Cathedral. It is observabk, tint as the Gothic taste advanced in purity, Spires vet-re laid ;tside, and the Tower was generally udopied. SeeGa.iMN's Western Tour, p. 55. R 2 132 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Vicars since the Revolutinji. the family of Stoughton, and died 1724 : and a fifth, to the memory of Aaron and Bridget Rogers, 1709. The presentation to this vicarage is vested in the Corporation, Vicars since the Revolution. Rev. Samuel Jemmet, 1672 — W. Greenwood, M. A 17 1 3 — Marmaduke Mathews, M. A. 1769 — Robert Miller, M. A. 1778 — Arthur Wade, M. A 1811 The second of the above mentioned divines, Mr. afterwards Dr. Greenwood, was an author of some con- siderable merit. Amongst other works, he published in 1763, Essays on the Creation, or an attempt to explain, upon rational principles, the first chapter of Genesis; and this was followed, in 1765, by a Harmony of the Gospels, which adopts the plan of Dr. Macknight, with slight deviations, and to which a well-written preface, contain- ing some judicious observations, is prefixed. He likewise published an exposition of that most interesting and im- portant chapter, the 15th of the 1st Corinthians. He also furnished Bishop Newton, to whom he was related, with the notes on Paradise Lost, published, with his name af- ^Ted, in the learned Prelates edition of Milton. These notes are not, however, very considerable in number ; nor, in excellence, can they be said to vie with the criticisms of Addison, Pierce, or Newton. — With the vicarage of St. Nicholas, Dr. G. held that of St. Marys, to which he was presented, on the resignation of Dr. Hodges, in 1724, through the interest of the Lady Dowager Baroness ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. 133 .^ — — — ^—— ■ — i— «— — ■ — — — — i BBBBB g " * ' Biographical Notice of Dr. Greenzcood. Torrington. A curious account of what passed on that occasion, is still preserved, in the hand-writing of the Doctor himself.* The patronage of St. Mary's, it ap- pears, was then supposed to be in the Lord Chancellory who was at that time the Earl of Macclesfield ; but, on making the proper application to him, Lady Touring- ton was informed that the gift was in the Crown and not in himself. The application was next made, therefore, through the Secretary, Lord Townshend, to the King ; the living was immediately given, as desired ; and fat when the instrument was presented to the Chancellor, he refused to affix the seals ; alleging that, on further en- quiry, he found the gift was really in himself, and not in the Crown. At the same time, however, he made an offer of it, on his own presentation, to the Doctor, who very properly refused to accept it, from him, without the previous consent of the King. But, on a second applica- tion for that purpose, the King insisted on his right ; long delays and disputes ensued ; till, after the Doctor " had been tossed a good while" as he himself expresses it, " from pillar to post, between Lincoln s- 1 mi -Fie Ids and St. James\" the Chancellor at length yielded, and the presentation passed the Great Seal. — On the next pre- sentation, which was that of Dr. Tart, the same disp te again arose; which ended in finally determining the right to be in the Crown, and not in the Seals. § — In the year 1739, Dr. G. obtained another preferment, more valuable than all, in the rectory of Solihull, to which he was pre- sented by Lord Archer. He then, resigned the living * In the possession of a Lady of Warwick. § From this account our Readers will easily correct the error into which we iiave inadvertently fallen, p. llfj. 134 ST. NICHOLAS' CHURCH. Biogrnphi al Notice of the Rev. M. Mai&ws. of St Mary's, but retained that of St. Nicholas. He died in 1750; and was buried at the entrance of Lea- mington Church. Of his successor, first, in the vicarage of St, Nicholas, and afterwards in that of St. Marys, the Rev. M. Mathews, the following short biographical notice, from the pen of one of his clerical brethren, was given in the Warwick Advertiser, Oct. 2, 1810. u On Tuesday evening last, died, aged 73, " the Rev. Marmaduke Mathews, vicar of St. " Marys, in this borough, and of Wellingborough, in the " county of Northampton, Domestic Chaplain to the ' « Earl of Warwick, and one of his Majesty's Justices of " the Peace for this county. — During a residence of 50 ce years in this Borough, spent in the offices of the sacred " ministry, first as curate, next as vicar of St. Nicholas , " and then (for the last 32 years,) as vicar of St. Mary's, Ci he had endeared himself to its inhabitants by his sim- " plicity of heart, great benevolence, and strict integrity, ci And it was his enviable lot to go through the several ct duties incumbent on him, as a magistrate, a clergyman, " and a christian, with an irreproachable character. After " a short illness, borne with resignation and cheerfulness, " he calmly closed his long series of active and laborious *' services, without a groan, generally respected, esteemed, tc and regretted." DISSENTING PLACES, &c. 135 Presbyterian Chapef. CHAP. XY. SDi^cnting $Utt$ of Wntgfyip. Presbyterian, Chapel — Independent Chapel — Baptist — West leian —Quaker's Meeting House. X O the account, given in the preceding chapter, of the o two remaining Churches, we subjoin the following short notices of the places of worship, belonging to the various classes of Dissenters. PRESBYTERIAN CHAPEL. This Chapel, situated in the High-street, was built in 1780, on a piece of ground, given for the purpose, by the late Lord Warwick, together with an adjoining house, in exchange for the ancient edifice, which stood in the way of an intended enlargement of his pleasure grounds. It is a small but neat building, presenting a stone front, with an urn at the summit. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. Carpenter, 1700 — James Kettle, 1746 — B. Kingsbury, 1786 — William Field, 178,0 136 DISSENTING PLACES Biographical Notice of Rev. J. Kettle — Independent Chapel. Of the second of these divines — the following short notice is copied from the Warwick Advertiser, Ap. 19, 1 806. " On Sunday last, died, at the advanced age of " 90, the Rev. James Kettle. He was born at Eves- cc ham ; and, after the usual grammar education, was " sent to Glasgow; where he completed his classical " and theological studies, preparatory to the ministerial u office, for which he was destined. His prior settle- cc ment, as a Minister, was at Dorchester ; whence he cc removed to Warwick. Here he preached 40 years, and " resided almost 60 ; and, through the whole course of " his long life, by the gentle, yet potent influence of that " unaffected piety and goodness, which become the Chris- " tian Minister ; recommended by the placid and amiable " dispositions, which adorn the man; and accompanied " by the graceful and agreeable manners, which bespeak " the gentleman ; he secured to himself the esteem of his " friends, and the respect of all who knew him." INDEPENDENT CHAPEL. This Chapel, situated in Cow-lane, was erected about the year 1760 ; and was greatly enlarged and im- proved in 1798. It is a good building, of considerable size, and is well attended. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. Newton, 1759 — J. Lombard, 1763 — A.Rowley, 1773 — J. Moody, 178O — W.Williams, I807 — J.Percy,... 1811 OF WORSHIP. Biographical Sketch of the Rev. J. Newton. The nrst of these divines — Mr. Newton — the favored friend of Cowper — and, in himself, no ordinary man, was born in London, 1JT25. . He was educated at a Boarding School, in Essex ; and, early in life, was sent to sea. Here, in the course of several voyages, he went through many surprizing adventures ; of which he has given us an interesting account, in his Letters of Omkron. AfterwarcU renouncing a sea- faring life; and, with it, many evil courses, into which he had unhappily run ; he became a religious character, and turned his thoughts to the Christian Ministry. In 1 759, he came to Warwick; and officiated, for a short time, as Minister to the Independent Society, then newly formed. Soon changing his views, however, he thought proper to conform to the established Church, and received ordination from the hands of the Bishop of Lincoln, 1764. By the recommendation of Lord Dartmouth, he was appointed Curate of Olneij Church. Here, he continued .5 years; and here, he first formed an intimate acquaintance with the interesting and amiable recluse of Weston. It was afterwards his sinffu- lar fortune, of which he was duly and even proudly sensi- ble, to introduce to the world, the most distinguished of modern Poets, by writing the Preface to the first of his published works. That Preface, it must be owned, is not very pertinently or happily written : and Cowper himself hesitated at first to admit it ; and seemed not well satisfied with it at last.* But the diffidence of the Poet, and the ambitious desire of his friend, to connect his own name with a name of so high a promise, finally prevailed; and the Preface was printed. From Olney, in l/79> Mi • N. removed to London, in consequence of a presentation, ij\ e HajlrjTs I ifc of Cowj> e - : Ho v. iii. p. 123, 126, 132. 138 DISSENTING PLACES Biographical /Notice of the Rev. J. Moody. the interest of John Thornton, Esq.. to the Rectory of St. Mary, Wbolnooth, Lombard-street. Here his earnest and assiduous preaching, recommended and enforced by a considerable degree of natural and fervid eloquence, aided, no doubt, by the recollection of the extraordinary events of his early life, long attracted crowded audiences. In \S06, at the advanced age of 81, he retired from his public duties: and, within a few months following, a long and eventful life, highly chequered by the good and the bad, greatly in- structive as a warning in its earlier, and as an example in its later period, was closed by an easy and tranquil death. His writings are numerous ; and, amongst that class of Christians, to which he belonged, which was that of Cat- wimsts y they are still held in great estimation. The Rev. J. Moody, the third of the Independent Divines, was orginally engaged in trade, but afterwards attended the instructions of the Rev. Messrs. Brewer, Barber, and Kello, with a view to the profession of a Christian Minister. In 178I, he settled at Warwick; and here for twenty-five years, continued his unwearied and most useful labours, in the sacred cause of religious truth, as it appeared to his own honest conviction. His principles were those of the great Genevan Reformer, held in their utmost strictness. But his faith and piety were sincere and fervent; his heart was benevolent; his morals were correct and exemplary; his manners amiable and sprightly; his theological and general knowledge was respectable ; and his ministerial services zealous, persevering, and emi- nently successful. He died in 1806; and was buried in his own chapel, where his merits are recorded upon a handsome tablet, the work and the gift of that distinguish- ed artist, his friend and his admirer, Mr. Bacon. Kfe OF WORSHIP. 139 Baptist Meeting House — llev. J. Ryland. published several single Sermons ; and, after his death, ap- peared a volume of Letters, which give abundant proof that he was a sensible, reflecting and studious, as well as a religious man. BAPTIST MEETING HOUSE. This was originally two dwelling-houses. About the year 1744, it was converted into a place of worship, and given for the use of a Society of Baptists, by Mr. Thomas Hurd, a native of Warwick ; who, also, left an estate in trust, towards the support of it. It is a small building ; but, by means of galleries carried round three of its sides, is capable of accommodating considerable numbers. It is furnished, as are all the places of worship belonging to this class of Dissenters, with ground for sepulture, im- mediately adjoining. Ministers since the Revolution. Rev. J. Rvland, 1746 — Knight, 1759 — Stennett, 1777 — P. Reece, 178O — J. Wilson, 1795 — Ed. Mabbutt, 1799 — Wm. Read, 1 804 The first of the above Divines, Mr. Ryland, was a man of no little celebrity in his time, especially amongst the class of Dissenters, to which he more immediately be- longed. He was born October 12, 1723, at Ditchford, near Shipstone, on the borders of this county. He received his education, preparatory to the ministerial s 2 140 DISSENTING PLACES Wesleian Methodist Meeting- office, in the Academy at Bristol; over which his son, Dr. Ryland, now presides. In 1746, he was chosen Pas- tor of the Congregation, at Warwick : and here, for the snace of thirteen years, he continued to preach with much approbation and usefulness. In 17^9, he accepted an in- vitation to the pastoral charge of the Baptist Society, at Northampton; where, with his ministerial labours, he united those of an instructor of youth ; and, in this new and important character, soon acquired high reputation. From Northampton, he removed to Enfield: and here, at the age of 69, he finally closed the course of an active and a useful life, devoted to all the great interests of knowledge, virtue, and religion, July 24, 1792. He was possessed of considerable abilities : but a strong and ardent imagination was not controlled by equal soundness, or strength of judgment : and a great degree of what is usually called eccentricity, marked not only the manner of his public services, but even his conduct in private life. He publish- ed several single Sermons, and some other small Treatises ; among which latter one of the principal is, Ci Contempla- tions on the JVorks of Creation.'* WESLEIAN METHODIST MEETING. This is situated in Gerard Lane, small in extent, and humble in appearance. The society to which it be- longs, as the name imports, is a branch of the numerous and growing sect, originally established by the highly distinguished, and truly pious and virtuous Wesley. Like the other Methodists, they have no settled Preachers ; but their public services are conducted by a succession of Preachers, of whom those that officiate in this place, belonged formerly to what is termed, by them, the Hinckley Circuit, and now to the Banbury Circuit. OF WORSHIP. 141 Quakers Meeting; House. Q.UAKERS MEETING HOUSE. This is situated in the south-western extremity of High Street. It was built about the year 1671, on a piece of ground given by Mr. Edward Tustian, an inhabitant of Warwick, for the use of the Society of Friends, residing in the town and its vicinity. It is a small edifice, fitted up with all the characteristic neatness, which belong to this truly respectable class of Dissenters ; and there is a spacious ground for sepulture, immediately adjoining. J*r% 142 COUNTY GAOL. State of the Old Prison — Foundation of the New Gaol. CHAP. XYX. Coimtp <*BaoI* State of the Old Prison— foundation of the New Gaol — front — entrance — Dead Room — Turnkey a Lodge — Keepers House — Male Felons' 1 Court — Spacious new building for their use — the cells — the baths — the work-shops — the Chapel — Female Felons' Court — apartments for their use — Masters' side Debtors — Common side Debtors' — Female Debtors' apartments — Dun- geon — present state of the interior — allowance to the Prisoners. lS OTHING could be more deplorable than the condition of the Old Prison, as described by Mr. Howard, at the time, when, by his astonishing and most humane exertions, that great philanthropist first directed the public notice, to the state of prisons in general, and amongst others, to that belonging to the County of Warwick. His feeling and forcible representations were received with all the grateful and respectful attention, to which they were so deservedly entitled, by the gentlemen of this, as well as of every other County in the Kingdom: and, as the happy fruits, in the place of the old, unsightly, unsafe, and un- healthy Gaol, arose the present large, substantial, and commodious pile, in every respect so complete, as to leave nothing to be desired, but that its situation had been nearer to the extremity, than the centre of the town. The whole area is surrounded by a wall, 23 feet high, and strong in proportion; which incloses a space, not much less than an acre of land. COUNTY GAOL. . 143 Front — Entrance — Dead Rnom—Gao^ \s H use. The solid stone front of this great and important building, is in North Gate Street, standing in a line with that of the County Hall; supported by massy pillars of the Doric Order, three quarters length ; and measuring in its whole extent, 126 feet. Of this front, nearly the whole is separated from the rest of the building; and is converted into Public Offices, for the use of the Clerk of the Peace, and others. In the Bridewell-lane, is the principal Entrance into the Prison itself. Here, on passing the outward gate, is the Turnkeys Lodge; and over it, what is called the Dead Room; through which unhappy sufferers are conducted to the place of execution, immediately before the Gaol doors — but for which, it is to be hoped, at no very distant period, there will be much less use, if the spirited and benevolent exertions, now embodied and employed, to awaken in the public mind a sense of the inefficacy, as well as injustice and cruelty of the frequent capital punish- ments, prescribed by the present laws, should not fail of success.* Next beyond the entrance, is a small Court Yard: on the left of which is a kind of summer apartment, be- longing to the Gaoler: and on the right, and in the front, are the Turnkey s apartments. Over these last, is the Goalers House, which forms nearly the central building of the whole ; and which commands, from its windows a view into all the different court-yards. Near the door leading into the Turnkeys apart- ment, is fixed an Alms Box, for the benefit of poor * Sre '• An Account of t he origin and object of the Society for 'lie diffusion of Knowledge upou the puirsliment of Death." 144 COUNTY GAOL. Male Felons' Co7irt Yard — New Building for their use. Debtors, put up in 1798; when he was High Sheriff, by that enlightened and ardent friend of his country, and of humanity, the late Blackett Wise, Esgl; on which are inscribed the following lines, so much admired for their simple pathos, as to have been since adopted, for a similar purpose, at the Debtor's Prison, in Dover Castle. th O ye ! whose hours exempt from sorrow flow, lc Behold the seat of pain, and want, and woe! '* Think, while your hands, the entreated alms, extend, *' That, what to us ye give, to God ye lend!" Immediately within the Turnkey's apartment are the four doors, which lead to the four principal divisions of the Prison — of which the two first conduct to the Male and Female Felons' Cornet Yards, and the two last to the Masters' side, and the Common side Debtors. On the right, is the door leading to the Male Felons Court Yard, which is spacious and airy; measur- ing not less than 96 feet in length, and 54 in breadth. Entering this Yard, on its left, or south side, stands the principal range of building, extending in its whole length 96 feet, and rising to the heighth of four stories. It is newly and substantially built of stone. At its two ex- tremities, on the ground floor, are the two Day Rooms, each of which, measures 31 feet by 19. Between these, is a range of eight sleeping cells, in front, looking into the Court Yard; and another range "of the same number behind, looking into a Garden, belonging to the Gaol These two ranges, are separated from each other, by a wall and passage, on each side of it, five feet wide. On the ground floor, are also three solitary cells. Tbese, and all the cells, are formed with arched roofs, 9 feet high: COUNTY GAOL. \Ah Mute Felons' Apartments — Hot and Cold fiat Its. and every cell measures 29 feet by 6. — Ascending a flight of stone steps, on the second story, are likewise two ranges of cells; one in front, the other behind ; separated from each other, by a wall and two passages, in the same manner as those upon the ground floor. The whole number of cells on this story, are 20, of which two are solitary cells, and eight are called double, because they are twice the size of the others, and are intended for the reception of two prisoners. — On the third and fourth stories, are also two ranges of cells, of the same number, and the same dimensions, divided from each other, in the same manner, as those in the lower story. On the whole, therefore, there are 79 cells ; and as 24 of these are double, the number of prisoners capable of being received and lodged in this part of the Gaol, is 103. — All the cells have glazed windows . and all are perfectly dry, and exceedingly airy. Each cell is secured with double doors ; the inner of vt ood, and the outer of iron grating. In every cell is an iron bed- stead, with wooden bottom; furnished with a chaff bed, and two rugs. Two of the double cells are provided with fire-places, and are appropriated to the use of the sick. Such is the large, lofty, and airy building, which occupies the south side of the Male Felons' Court: and, on the opposite side, is another building of nearly equal length, but only one story in height. This consists, amo g other convenient offices, of a hot and a cold bath, for the use of the prisoners; and a room, in which the irons are deposited. The man of humanity will rejoice to hear, as a happy consequence, resulting fom the present secure state of the Gaol, that the use of these irons, especially those of the heavier kind, is now become almost mi- ne cess arv. 146 COUNTY GAOL. The Work Rooms — the Chapel — Female Felons' Apartments. Beyond this first and low building, parallel to it, and separated from it, by a yard 10 feet wide, is another building, which rises two stories in height. Here on the ground floor, properly divided from each other, are two work-rooms, one for the men, and the other for the women. The former it was proposed to employ in weav- ing; and the latter, in spinning. But hitherto, this part of the plan has never been carried into execution : and, at present, one of the work-rooms is used by those debtors, who employ themselves in their several occupations, as of tailors, or shoemakers: and the other is occasionally used as a day-room, when the number of prisoners is more than usually great. — Over these rooms, on the second floor, is the Chapel; which is large, light, and com- modiously fitted up. It is divided by a partition, so high, that the sexes are out of sight of each other. But the officiating Clergyman, and also the Gaoler himself, from an elevated seat, command a view of the whole. All the prisoners, unless prevented by illness, attend divine service, every Wednesday and Friday. The second of the four principal doors, already mentioned, within the Turnkey's apartment, conducts to the Court-yard, belonging to the Female Felons, which is nearly in the form of a triangle, whose base is 56 feet, and perpendicular heighth 24. Along one side, are the apartments, appropriated to their use. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day-room, 18 feet by 14, two sleeping-rooms of the same size, and a wash-room; and, on the upper story, two sleeping-rooms, and a third, pro- vided with a fire-place, to be used occasionally as an in- firmary, all of nearly the same size as the day-room. The third and fourth doors, within the Turnkey's COUNTY GAOL. 147 Apartments at the Matters' side — Common side — and Female Debtors' — Dungeon' apartments, conduct to the different Court-yards, of the Masters' side Debtors, and of the Common side Debtors. The former measures 82 feet by 37; and the latter is nearly of the same extent. — On the Masters side Debtors, is a day-room, 20 feet by l6: nine lodging- rooms on the ground Moor, each about 10 feet square; and, on the upper story, eighteen sleeping-rooms, of the same size, opening into a passage only three feet wide. The prices to be paid for the use of these rooms, fixed by authority, are marked on a table, and publicly exhibited. ,For the Common side Debtors, a day-room is provided, about 14 feet square, on the ground floor; and three sleep- ing-rooms, on the upper story, furnished with chaff beds, and two rugs each, for which nothing is paid At one extremity of the Court-yard, belonging to the Common side Debtors, is a door which leads into that of the Female Debtors. Their apartments consist of two rooms, the larger, 20 feet square; the smaller, l6 feet by 9. Their bedding is the same as that of the men ; but here, bedsteads with sacking bottoms, are al- lowed. In the Court-yard, belonging to the Common side Debtors, is the old Dungeon; to which the descent is by 21 steps; and which is lighted only by one small grated aperture, at the top. Those who would enter into the feelings of iust indignation, with which the great Philanthropist describes this Dungeon* as a place of con- finement for human beings, will rejoice to be informed, that it has not, for many years, been used for any such purpose; and that now, prisoners are never conveyed thither, * Howard 011 Prisons v. i. p. 270, v. ii. p. 208. 148 COUNTY GAOL. Present state of the Interior. except when conducted, in order to take their respective trials, through a subterraneous passage, which opens near it; and of which the other extremity terminates, by a good contrivance, near the Prisoners bar, in the County Hall. Such are the several divisions of this well-planned a^d spacious Prison — every part of which, we must now add, is plentifully supplied both with hard and soft water. It is white washed, once every year; and the whole is kept in a state of the most perfect order and cleanliness, so as to reflect great credit on its present superintendent; and to justify, it is hoped, the warm and liberal com- mendations, bestowed upon it, in his late excellent and most useful publication, by Mr. Neild* — of whom it is high, as well as merited praise, to say, that he zealously pursues the plans, and nobly emulates the glory, of Howard. — Alas ! since this was written — the afflicting in- telligence has been announced to the public, that the second Howard, is no more ! A life of laborious and benevolent exertions, directed, with little encouragement from those in power, to the great object, of discovering and removing the abuses, and of preventing or alleviating the distresses of Prisons, terminated— unhappily for the miserable tenants of those gloomy abodes !— Feb. l6, 1814.§ He has left, however, to the wisdom and humanity of his country, for the benefit of the most wretched of our species, an invaluable legacy, in his important volume, already alluded to, entitled, after those of his Great Predecessor, " The state of Prisons in -England and Wales? — a work which he had completed only a short time previous to his death. — If this is a di- gression — the Reader capable of appreciating, and honoring JSiild's Stale of Prisons, page 577. See Gent. Wag. February , 18J4. COUNTY GAOL. 149 Allowances to the P?*isoners — Officers belonging to the Gaol. what is most exalting^ in human character, will easily pardon it. — To return to the short remainder of our account — The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are conspicu- ously exhibited to view in several places. The daily allowance to each prisoner is one pound and a half of bread, sent in loaves from the baker, and always of full weight. Besides this stated allowance, the prisoners re- ceive from a legacy eight three-penny loaves, twice a month. They are regularly sent by Bernard Dewes, Esgl. of Wellesbourne , in this County, who gives also a ton of coals to the Debtors, and the same to the Felons, every Christmas. At that season, also, a sum is usually given for the relief of the Poor Debtors, which fre- quently amounts to 40 or ^50. Gaoler, Mr. H. Tatnall, salary. . ^300 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, do. 70 Ditto, gratuity 30 Surgeon, Mr. Birch, salary 60 § Nihil est tarn regiuro, tarn liberate, taraque mumficua^quani opeiu fene so^plicibus, *5citare afflictog. &c 150 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Keeper's House— Vagrants' Apartments. »Ciii CHAP. XVII. Countp 25ri&etoeH. Keepers Mouse— -Vagrants Apartment — Mem' Court Yard — The Factory— Mens 1 Apartment's — Womens' Apartments — New Apartments for the Women — New Warehouse and Dye House — New Building for disorderly Apprentices and Servants — The Chapel — The Articles manufactured— Internal Regulations — Present state of the Interior — Allowance to Prisoners. jt\ T a small distance from the entrance into the Gaol, on the opposite side of the same street, stands the Bride- well. It presents to view, the Keepers House, with a handsome stone front ; terminated at each extremity by a gate-way; measuring in its whole extent 80 feet; and di- vided from the public street, by a garden, which belongs to it. Of its two Gates, one conducts to the part appro- priated to the men ; the other, to that appropriated to the women- Passing through the former of these, and entering a small yard, on the right, is the Keeper's House, which, from its windows, commands a view into the two nearer and principal Courts : and, on the left, is the Vagrants' Apartment. This is entirely detached from the rest of the Prison, by a high wall ; and consists of two sleeping cells, properly divided from each other ; one for the men, COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 151 JMens' Court Yard — Vhe Factory, and the other for the women. Each cell is ahout 10 feet square ; and to each is attached a Court-yard, 21 feet long, and 12 broad. From the outer Gate of the Prison, just mention- ed, proceeding directly forward is another, which leads, down a flight of stone steps, into the Mens' Court Yard. This is dry, airy, and spacious, measuring 99 feet by 36- and is nearly surrounded by the various buildings, so humanely and judiciously provided, not merely for the necessary shelter, but also for the profitable employment of those who are doomed, by the offended laws of their country, to suffer confinement in this Prison* Of these various buildings, there are no less than four, besides the Keepers House, and the Vagrants' cells, already mentioned, which form so many distinct depart- ments in this great and important establishment. These we shall proceed to notice in the following order — the Factory — the Mens" apartments, in which is the Chapel — the Womens new apartments, in which are also the dye house, and the warehouse — and the new building, for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants. On the left side of the Mens" 1 Court-yard, stands the Factory, two stories in height ; in which the comb- ing, spinning, and weaving of worsted, are carried on, to a considerable extent, and with the happiest effect, in the mutual advantage of the prisoners themselves, and of the. country which they have wronged. On the basement story, is the first workshop, 80 feet long ; containing a loom, a. considerable number of spinning wheels, a carding ma- chine, and a twisting mill. Close to it, on the same floor, 152 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. Mens' Apartments — Womens* Apartments. is a combing and sorting room/ On the upper story, is the second workshop, of the same size as the first ; in which are seven looms, ten spinning wheels, and a carding machine. Opposite to the Factory, stands the second, which is the central and principal building, extending along the whole eastern ^*de of the court yard, and containing the apartments for the men. Here in the basement story, are a warm and a cold bath, an oven and a boiler, with pipes to convey water into it, from the reservoir. The second story contains a day-room for the common use of the men ; and another for the exclusive use of the convalescents. Over this is the chamber story; in which is the chape], three sleeping cells, and a sleeping room about 15 feet square. In the attic story, is a sleeping room, 30 feet by 15, with partitions on the floor, to serve for the purpose of beds ; a sick room, l6 feet by 14, furnished with wooden turn-up bedsteads ; and adjoining to it, another room, pro- vided with a fire place, which is also for the use of the sick. In the same building, are distinct apartments for the women. These consist, on the ground floor, of a day- room, 27 feet by 16 ; on the second story, one sleeping room, l6 feet by 14, and two sleeping cells, 7 feet square ; on the upper story, one sleeping room, 30 feet by 16, and one sleeping cell, 7 feet square. The womens' day-room opens into their own court yard, 83 feet long, though not more than 15 feet wide. Such are the apartments, at present, appropriated to the women; but it must now be stated, that the whole of these are intended to be added to the apartments COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 153 Nero Building for the Women. occupied by the men ; as soon as another spacious building, preparing for the reception of the women, is completed. This, which is the third of the four great buildings, extends along the northern extremity of the Mens* Court-yard, at right angles both to the Factory and the Central Building ; measuring 89 feet in length, and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor are the Dye-house, 30 feet by 15, properly fitted up with coppers and stoves ; the stove- room ; the wash-house, 15 feet by 15 ; and the womens' day-room, 31 feet by 15. On the second floor, is a spacious work-room, 65 feet long, and 14 broad, capable of receiving from 40 to 50 spinning wheels ; a light and airy room for the use of the sick, 1 7 feet by 1 5 ; and a sleeping room, 31 feet by 15. On the upper story, is a sleeping-room, the same size as the lower one, and the whole remaining part forms a capacious warehouse for receiving and storing the manufactured goods. From the regular system of employment, established iii the Bridewell, it has long been considered, both by the judges and the magistrates, preferable, as a place of confinement, even to the County Gaol; though the latter is so much more spacious and commodious. In conse- quence, the number of prisoners sent hither, has of late years, greatly increased; and in 1808, it was determined to enlarge it. About that time, accordingly, the foundation of another building was laid, which has since been com- pleted. This immediately adjoins the newly erected building, last noticed, at right angles to it, standing in a spacious garden, from which a piece of ground 38 feet by 30, is taken for a court-yard, and surrounded by a hjgk wall. It is substantially built, extending in front 54 feet, u 154 COUNTY BRIDEWELL. ___, ^igjiMiMMliiniMMM ii m»— »a— — a^ — — — aw — — — — — ■<■ JView Building for disorderly Apprentices. - and rising to the height of three stories. On the ground floor, are a day-room, l6 feet by 12; a workshop 28 feet by 12; and two solitary cells. On the middle story are 8 single cells, 1 2 feet by 5 ; and on the upper story, 2 single cells of the same size, and three double cells, measuring 12 feet by 10^. Every cell has a glazed window, and ail iron door ; and they are all furnished with iron bedsteads and chaff beds. This new building, the Fourth within the pTe- cincts of this great Prison, will no doubt be found a very important addition to the various accommodations, which the well-judging humanity of the County .has provided for those unhappy persons, whose crimes have rendered seclusion from society necessary: and it will certainly contribute to raise still higher the opinion, which has been formed of it, by competent judges, as one of the best in the kingdom. It is intended exclusively for the reception of disorderly apprentices and servants, and of person* convicted of smaller offences ; who will thus be kept en- tirely separated from others, whose crimes are of a deeper dye, or whose term of imprisonment is of longer duration. The Chapel, it has been already mentioned, is in the chamber story of the central building. It consists of two distinct rooms ; one for the men, 36 feet by l6 ; the other for the women, 13 feet by l6. These rooms have no other, communication with each other, except that of one high and barred window ; close to which, the Clergy- man's desk is placed, who is, therefore, seen and heard equally well in both. The womens' room is an addition lately made to the Chapel, which before consisted only of that part; now appropriated to the men ; and as it has COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 155 Articles manufactured — Allowance to the Prisoners. been so pointedly noticed both by Mr. Neild* and by Dr. Lettsom,§ as much too small for tbe accommodation of the great numbers ; with which this prison is generally filled, and sometimes even crowded — we have great pleasure in thus distinctly stating, that a place of confinement, which has obtained from them and others, such high and deserved commendation, is no longer liable to the reproach of that single but serious defect. The following are the principal of the various articles manufactured in this Prison, — Scotch and Venetian carpets — woollen webs — rollers — braces — Jersey aprons— Linsey petticoats — coloured tammies — blankets — bed rugs — and horse cloths. — The goods are most of them sent to London, Birmingham, Walsall, Dudley, Lincoln, and Stamford. All prisoners who work, receive 2d. or 3d. in every shilling out of their earnings, which is paid them weekly. The amount of earnings from January 1813, to January 1814, was about ^3 50, and the number of hands employed during that time, was from 40 to 50. The stated allowance to all the prisoners is one pound and a half of bread each per day. One hundred weight of coals a day, in the winter months, and half a hundred in the summer months, are allowed to the men, and the same to the women ; besides firing for the sick rooms. Chaff beds, and two rugs to each, are allotted to" all the prisoners. The men are attended by a barber weekly ; and they have clean linen once every week, which is washed and mended by the women. Soap and towels are allowed to all. In cases of sickness, the Surgeon * Neild's State of Prison*, p. 675. $ Lettsom's Letter, Gent. Mag April, 1810. U 2 156 COUNTY BRIDEWELL, ""J" ■1111,11. I. JITI.II.HI.IIHIH, .III ■■■ ! ■. I ,1 , I. 1 .' ■ ""■ ■ ■""^ Internal "Regulations. ' • " i i . ==T orders what he judges necessary, at the expence of th@ County. The women are generally supplied with clothing from the prison manufactory ; which , if wanted, is given them, when discharged. A donation is also made to every prisoner, on being released, according to the distance from home, and behaviour during confinement. One or two shirts, or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented to those, who have been imprisoned six months. The act for the preservation of health, and the clauses against the use of spirituous liquors, are hung up conspicuously to view in the prison. The whole of it is white-washed once every year ; and the greatest order and cleanliness prevail through every part of it, under the careful management of the present conductor, whose services have been deservedly marked with public appro- bation, by the very considerable addition made to his salary. Before we close this account of Warwick Bride- well, we cannot refuse ourselves the pleasure of transcribing the following favorable notice of it, from the pen of Dr. Lettsom— so long known, and so highly distinguished for his indefatigable exei dons to improve and perfect in itself, and to promote throughout the world, the astonish- ing and truly humane system of recovering persons from apparent death ; as well as for his ardent and active en- deavours, on all occasions, to prevent or relieve, in every most wretched form, the distresses of human life. " We * f have frequently occasion, "says that enlightened and benevolent Physician," to notice the lamentable state " of Bridewells and Workhouses— but, as a contrast, let * s the attention be transferred to that of the Bridewell in COUNTY BRIDEWELL. 157 Officers belonging to the Ptison. " Wanvick ; where industry is encouraged, and where the " product of labor is appropriated to promote its exercise. " It should, indeed, he contemplated by every Magistrate " and Overseer in the kingdom." Gent. Mag. April, 1810. Keeper, Mr. Jos. Chaplin, salary ^200 Chaplain, Rev. H. Laugharne, . . Surgeon, Mr, Birch, r ... , -m 15* HISTORY OF Founded by Ethdfeda, daughter of Alfred. Vmmmmimmmmammmimmm^alfmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmt i inn CHAP. XYIII. ^iiStotp of i^attoicft Cattle* Founded by Ethelfeda— strengthened and enlarged by order of William f.— and granted by him to Henry de Newburg— garrisoned by the royal troops in the reign of Henry II.— surprised, and in port destroyed, in the reign of Henry TIL — transferred from thejamily of De Nezvburg, to that of De Beauchatnp, in th p reign of Edward I. — repaired by the first Thomas de Beauchamp — Guys Tozcer built by the Second Thomas de Beauchamp-— seized by the Crown* in the reign of Richard II. — restored— enlarged and improved, by George D. of Clarence— again seized by the Crown — Bear Tower begun by Richard III. — granted to John Dudley — escheated to the Crown—granted to Ambrose Dudley— reverted to the Crown— granted to Sir Fulke Greville — repaired and adorned by him— greatly improved and embellished by the late and the present Earls of Warwick. J T appears, according to the Saxon Chonicles,that a Castle was founded at Warwick, by Ethelfleda, the accom- plished daughter of Alfred the Great, in the year 915.* In these early times, a Castle usually consisted of a mound of earth, taken from the fosse, surrounding the whole ; on which a square tower was erected, called the Keep or Dungeon : though the former of these terms be- longs more properly to the higher parts of the building, in which the family resided ; and the latter, to the deep cells, designed for the detention of miserable captives. - _-_^ * Dug'i. Junes' fi-iiiou, 1765, p. 308, &c. WARWICK CASTLE. 159 Strengthened by order of William J. — granted to Henry de Newburg. i — ~~ ' spa Of the ancient Saxon Castle, at Warwick, probably, nothing more remains except the mound of earth ; within which, however, there is every reason to suppose, the lower parts of the Dungeon, if sought, would still be found. The several parts of the Castle, as at present it appears, were built, it is certain, at different times ; nor can it be proved that any of these are older than the period of the Norman Conquest. Caesar's Tower is ge- nerally considered as the most ancient ; but of its erection nothing is known : and the name was, in all probability, given to it, as well as to one of the Towers of the neigh- bouring Castle of Kenilworth, from no other motive, but that of veneration for the Ancient Romans. At the time of the conquest, as already related,* Turchill, the reputed Earl of Warwick, was employed by Will. I. to repair and enlarge this important Fortress; and, on that occasion, four houses were destroyed, which belonged to the Priory of Coventry. Distrustful, however, of Turchill, the Congluerqr soon removed him from the custody of the Castle ; and committed it to one of his own followers, Henry de Newburg, who was the first Earl of the Norman line. Wedgnock Park was formed by him, and added to the domains of the Castle. In the reign of Stephen, the royal garrison, here stationed, was driven out, by Gundred, Countess of' Warwick ; and the Castle delivered to his great rival, afterwards Henry II. In the reign of this latter prince, when his son appeared in arms against him, the Castle again received a royal garrison. Bertram de Verdon was then Slieriff of the county ; and the amount of his charges, for supplies of Page 6. 160 HISTORY OF Transferred by marriage to the family of De Beauchamp. provision, for wages of the soldiers, and repairs of the Castle, still remain upon record. || In the same reign, the garrison was increased, by the addition of two knights; which before consisted of five knights and ten Serjeants. A remarkable proof of the importance, that was attached to this Castle, occurs, in the reign of Hen. III. On account of its strength, and its advantageous situation, as expressly mentioned, § by a royal precept, directed to the Archbishop of Fork, and to William de Cantalupe, Margery, sister and heiress of Thomas de Newburg, sixth Earl, was required to give good security, that she would not contract herself in marriage to any person, in whom the King could not place his most entire confidence* But strong as the Castle was by its fortifications, or by the nature of its situation, it soon appeared that it was not impregnable. For, in the same reign, 1265, William Mauduit, then Earl of Warwick, who had taken part with the King against the Barons, was surprised in it, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth Castle. Great part of the walls was destroyed :* the Earl and his Countess were earned away captives ; and were afterward* obliged to pay for their ransom, 1900 marks.^ From the family of De Newburg, the possession of the Castle, and its surrounding domains, passed into t of De Beauchamp, by the marriage of Isabel, in Iqrs or bread corn, £6 13s 4d. — 20 qs of malt, £l.—o0 oxen salted d r — 90 cheesfes, £i 10s. od. salt £i— soldier's wages, ,,£30 10s 8d.— repairs, is'rn n habet insrentis fortitndinis et situm versus partes Marchiae." itien, which one of the smaller towers still bears, was given from a IK- > 'v.is imwt taken, this, it appears, in erroneous. WARWICK CASTLE. I6'l Castle Gate-uai/ built and fortified with Towers — Gu/s Tower erected. r n i i ii— ' her own right, Countess of Warwick, with William, son of Walcherine de Beauchamp, as already related.* During the minority of the first Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, the government of the Castle was committed, after several other persons in suc- cession, to Roger, Lord Mortimer. It was this Earl, admitted by special favor, at the age of 17, to the full possession of all his honors and privileges, who rebuilt the walls of the Castle, left m a ruinous state, since their demolition, in the time of Earl Mauduit. By him als6. the strong gates were added, and the gate-ways fortified by embattled towers. In the year 1394, the strong and stately tower, at the north east angle, was built by the se- cond Thomas Beauchamp, son and successor of the former, in the Earldom ; and called, in honor of the ancient hero of that name, Guys Tower. In 1397, this Earl was banished, on a false charge of treason, and the custody of the Castle was given to John de Clinton. Soon afterwards, however, on the accession of Henry IV* he was restored to all his honors and estates. From this time, the Castle remained in possession of the successive Earls, till the death of George, Duhe of Clarence, who had married the daughter and heiress of Richard, commonly called the stout Earl of Warwick. By him much was done, and more was designed, in order to strengthen, enlarge, and adorn this Castle, which he had chosen for his principal residence. But the murder- ous hand of his unnatural and brutal brother, King Richard III. stopped short his course: and, after his • Page 30, 162 HISTORY OF Bear Tower begun by Richard III. — Castle granted to Dudley, Earl of Warwick. deaths during the minority of his son Edward, the Castle was seized by the Crown, 1477 ; and remained in the royal possession, during the whole reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. Edward himself, no less unfortunate than his father, fell a victim to the jealousy of the former of those Princes ; and, in him, the title of Earl of Warwick, became extinct. According to Leland,* " a mighty fayre tower" was begun and half finished, on the north side of the Castle 3 by Richard III. " for to shoot out gunnes." The first stone, it is even said, was laid by his own hands. This 5 no doubt, is that unfinished tower, which appears in the inner court, near the gate, leading into the pleasure grounds* It is called the Bear Tower ; because in it bears were kept confined, with a view to the diversion of bear baiting : which was formerly a favorite amusement even to the higher classes of society ; and was one amongst the many other amusements, provided by the Earl of Leicester, for the entertainment of Queen Elizabeth, during her fa- mous visit at Kenilworth Castle. In the year 1547, ^ rst °f Edward VI. the title $f Earl of Warwick, and the Castle, together with con- siderable part of the estates, anciently belonging to it, were granted to John Dudley, afterwards Duke of Northum- berland. On his attainder, the estates escheated to the Crown : but were afterwards granted, together with the title, by Queen Elizabeth, to Ambrose Dudley, his son, who died without issue, 1589. The Castle, and its ap- pendages, then reverted once more to the Crown ; and in its possession continued, till the 2d of James I. * Lei, iv. 1q2 } 163. WARWICK CASTLE. lC3 Castle granted to Fulke Lord Biooke — repaired and enlarged by him. m .. ■ ■ ■ , , . In that year, 1605, the Castle, with all its gardens and other dependencies, was granted in fee to Sir Fulke Greville, Knight of the Bath, afterwards created a Baron, hy the title of Lord Brooke. He was already in possession of the large and ancient park of Wedgenock ; which had been granted to him, by Elizabeth. At this time, the Castle was in a very ruinous state : and the strongest parts of it were used as a County Gaol. Sir Fulke, determined to make it the seat of his family, and ex- pended ^20,000, in repairing and adorning it. He also purchased, and added to its surrounding pleasure grounds, the fields opposite its principal front, which formerly bolong-* ed to the Knights Templars ; and were thence called Temple Fields. Here, he formed large and beautiful plantations ; and he, it should seem, as well as the Duke of Clarence, be- fore him, had conceived in idea, though it was reserved for a distant successor, to carry into execution, the plan of that noble park, which now stretches, in extensive and delightful view, before the Castle windows. In short, under his trans- forming hand, this ancient and venerable pile, as Dugdale relates, became a place, " not only once more of strength, 6i but also of extraordinary delight ; being planted with (i the most pleasant gardens, walks, and thickets ; forming " the most princely seat within the midland parts of the * realm."* In his family, it has continued, without inter- ruption, to the present time. * Dugdale, Jones's Edition, p. 509. So also it was described, neaily 40 years before, by Bishop Corbett, in bis Iter Boreale, referred to, page 71. A place of strength and health ; in the same fort You would conceive a castle and a court. The orchards, gardens, rivers, and the aire, Doe with the trenches, rarapires, walls compare: It seems not art, nor force can intercept it, As if a lover built, a soldier kept it. X 2 l6-i HISTORY OF, &c. Castle and its -sounds enlarged nd adorned bit the late and the present Earls. But the title of Earl of Warwick, after the death of Ambrose Dudley, lay dormant thirty years ; and when revived, it was in favor of another family, as already related.* When, however, it again became extinct, on the death of Edward, Earl of Warwick and Holland, with- out male issue ; it was once more revived, in the person of Francis Greville, father of the present Earl, great grandson of Robert, the nephew and adopted heir of the first Lord Brooke. He had been previously raised to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl Brooke ; and was created Earl of Warwick, by letters patent, bearing date November 2"J, 1759- By Francis, Earl of Warwick, and by his son, the present Earl, great and extensive improvements, have been made in the Castle, and its grounds ; of which we shall now proceed to give some account — in an attempt to describe its present state. But here all description must fail ; and, in order to form a just, or at least, an adequate idea, either of its external grandeur, or internal splendour, it must be seen. We hope, however^ to succeed so far as to point out, with some degree of taste and judg- ment, whatever is most deserving the attention of the stranger ; and to furnish such information, as will enable him to see, with greater pleasure, and to recollect after- wards, with more distinct impression, what he has seen. Page 57, APPROACH, &c. 165 Castellated entrance to the Castle. CHAP. XIX. 38p5roacI> to tf>e Cattle, The Entrance — Near View of the Castle — Inner Court, V/N the eastern side, near an open space of ground, adorned with thriving plantations, is the principal en- trance into the Castle. — Here an embattled gate-way, with a lodge, has lately been erected : looking, indeed, with scarcely sufficient dignity,* for the situation it occu- pies, but intended only as a temporary erection. Passing through this entrance, the grand approach is conducted, by a broad and winding road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; which in itself presents a striking appearance, and is clothed on each side, with moss and ivy, and crowned with trees and shrubs of every diversified form, and every various hue. So judiciously curved, and thickly planted, is this approach — forming a fine sweep, extending in length, more than 300 feet — that every other object is excluded from the sight ; till, at a sudden turn, the Castle itself, in all its magnificence, bursts, at once, on the astonished and delighted view, with great, and even sublime effect. — The part of the ground, now entered, was anciently the Vineyard; where, it is recorded, abundance of fruit was • See, however, what is said, p. { f)7. Considering: ihe impossibility, fr«m thw great distance, of sufficiently connecting Ihe Lodge with the Castle; and the difficult of forming any design for the former, which could at all vie with the venerab'e grandwer of the latter— it may, also, be questioned whether a plain erection, like the present, vumouC any pretensions whatever, is not preferable to any attempt at something greater. 166 APPROACH TO M .HI.— II 1 II 1 I H l . »ll »W I M M>Ma«««ag«B«»»MMWMgBMMMM WM»» III M l i BM^ Fin* near view of the Castle. «■■■ ■'» *■» — — - ■ i gathered, even so far back as the time of Henry IV. § but whether this fruit was really the grape, has been the subject of much dispute. It is now inclosed ; divided from the town, and shut out from the view of all its meaner buildings, by a screen of trees — -whose rising summits, even St. Mary's Tower, and St. Nicholas' Spire, lately to be seen here, are no longer able to overtop. In the higher grounds, however, they still appear — forming, from several points, fine objects. Approaching towards the inner court — the near view of the Castle, with all its solemn towers and battlements, mantled with ivy, and shaded with trees, and shrubs, of large size, and luxuriant growth, affords a display of picturesque beauty and grandeur, scarcely to be exceeded. On the right, appears the mighty Tower of Guy, a polygon, of twelve sides, whose walls are of two feet thickness ; rising, with the most exact and beautiful proportion, from a base of thirty feet diameter, to the lofty height of 128 feet. It is of the kind, called ma- chicolated — having its open parapets projected from the walls of the tower itself, and supported by brackets, so as to leave a considerable interval between ; through which, boiling lead might be poured, or stones thrown down, on the heads of the assailants. Erected in the days of Bichard II. this tower has stood unmoved, through the long course of four revolving centuries, nor does it yet discover any marks of decay. But even this appears little, when compared with the age of Cesar's Tower, on the left ; the most ancient of the whole ; which, in all pro- * From the B