0' «as taken by the daughter to a large room across the wide hall, opened country fasliion at both ends. This room was evidently the parlor though a bed was in it. Opposite the door was a huge fire place in which a few pine knots burning under and between an armful of green wood, gave for a time the semblance of a bright, warm fire. "What a nice room this is!" I said to the girl. "Do you play?" For there was not only one, but two organs in the room. "Very little," she answered. 'T am taking lessons." And I couldn't persuade her to give me a sample of wliat she could do. Then as I looked around the room I iioticed the incongruity of some of its furnish- CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 13 ings. Aside from the organs the furniture was very plain, the walls were nicely papered but on them hung gg^udy colored chromos. A rich lambrequin of &ilk adorned the mantel- piece, on whicli were little plaster figures among: paper flowers, pliotographs and home made little ornaments, all out of keeping with the lambrequin and organ covers. And last of all, in my discoveries, was a large and beautiful j hotograph album resting of all places in the world, on the cuspidor near the wall. "Well I declare! This beats all I ever saw!" was my mental ejaculation. But to the girl I praised all I could conscient- iously praise, and she soon left me to my reflections and investigations as to where the washstand could be. But that was too hard a problem to be solved that night and I left it till morning. By the time Mr. Chavannes joined me the pine knots had burned themselves out with- out doing any injury to the green wood. Our host's thoughtfulness however was appreciated, but as it was not cold we did not miss the fire and soon were in oblivion of all our surroundings. Next morning there was nothing to do but dress entirely and go out in quest of the 14 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. family wash place, which was likely to be on the back porch. Mr. Chavannes who was ready first went out sayino^ confidently : ''I know I can find all I need." "Well then, here is a towel," said I, taking one from the grip, "only please bring it back when you are done." But before I could follow him there was a. knock at the door and the bashful young lady came in carrying a basin of water which she deposited on a chair, and laid a clean towel on the back of it. ''Oh ! thank you," I exclaimed, "but J am sorry you took the trouble, I could have gone on the porch." "It is no trouble," she answered smiling, "do you need anything else?" I assured her I did not, feeling thankful that my handglass had been put in my grip, for not a sign of a mir- ror was there in the room, and how can one fasten a breast pin, or put up their hair with- out a bit of looking glass? Well! as soon as ready I went to the sitting room, where Mr. Chavannes, who as expected had found all the necessaries for his toilet on the back porch, had preceded me, and there I also found most of the family assembled, the Major with his back to the fire, talking to my husband at the same time that he combed his hair with a little tjl^ck comb. CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 16 "Good morning- Madam," said our host making room for me by the fire. "Good mor- ning, did you rest well?" ''Yes indeed," I answered. "I slept very well and feel rested." Then quite suddenly, handing me the comb from which he had been wiping off the hair, he said: "Will you have a comb?" T sup- pressed a gasp and tried to answer naturally, ''no thank you, T brought my combs." But dear me I couldn't the man see that my hair was freshly combed? •'Perhaps," he continued, "you are like my wife, she always took a comb with her when she spent the night away from home, was afraid of scalp disease." "Oh ! it isn't that," I hastened to answer mendaciously. "But I always carry with me those articles of toilet whenever I travel." And Mr. Chavannes cor- roborated what T said, not wishing to have the old man's feelings hurt. "Oh ! it's all right, it's all right," he rejoined, "and I think my wife was right too." And then came breakfast as bountiful as the supper had been, and very soon after we bade good by to our kind-hearted host and his family, to whom it would have been an insult to offer pay, and took our seat in the l>^g§:y which as a matter of course stoo4 16 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. ready at the front gate. Our good old mare, refreshed by a good night's rest, good feed and grooming, whinnied when she saw ns, and soon we were on our way towards new scenes, new people and new experiences. No matter where we stopx^ed we were well received, but nowhere, perhaps, with the same courtesy and hospitality of the southern planter as at Major Howard's. IV. Once during our canvassing tour we stopped at a Methodist Minister's, without being aware of the fact until we had been in the house some little time. It happened the day that Mr. Chavannes by appointment spoke in the Court House at Mary ville, where we stopped at noon, and in- stead of our out door lunch had a substan- tial dinner at the Jackson House. I did not attend the speaking that time, as it seemed not to be customary for ladies to go to the Court House in that little place, but as com- pensation I found some splendid reading in the parlor of the hotel, magazines and perio- dicals, and spent a very pleasant hour till it was time to start again. This afternoon driving was in a part of the CANVASSINa THE DISTKICT. 17 country entirely unk,nown to us. The roads were good and the weather delightful, but no matter how fast we might drive there was no chance of our reaching our next place of meet- ing that night. So we had to depend on the kindness of some well-to-do farmer to take us in. "And we'll have to be on the look out early for a place to stop," said Mr. Chavannes, "for it won't do to let darkness overtake us in these unknown regions." (I should mention that the houses were far apart.) Accordingly before it. was fairly sundown, we reined up in front of a large barn where several men were engaged in examining pieces of machinery. "Any chance of staying all night with you?" inquired my. companion. But the answer was not promptly forthcoming; there was even surprise and doubt expressed on the countenances of the men. Perhaps they were wondering what kind of people we were to be asking for hospitality. So Mr. Chavannes went on to explain that we were going from Maryville to Dandridge, and were strangers in that part of the country, and couldn't they take us in? "All right, I reckon you can stay," drawled out the boss, a tall, dark man, who probably by this time had made up his mind that we were no runaway 18 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. couple. "Drive on a bit," he added. So we drove on in front of the house where some flowers were still blooming, and mine host himself came to take care of the horse. Not long after, as we two sat on the porch reading and looking about us, Albert exclaim- ed, "Well! we are in for it. Here is a newspaper which shows that our host won't agree with us." "That is too bad, it comes of not knowing just where to stop," was my answer. But Mr. Chavann^s did not ca.re, "as we had stopped, there we should stay. Whatever is, is best." Our bit of conversation had been carried on in French, to the amusement no doubt, of a niece of our host, for she looked at us in- quiringly with wide open eyes, saying plainly: "What manner of folks are you?" But we didn't enlighten her, and when the owner came in he proved much more genial than our first impression of him had led us to believe. In the course of the evening he told us of having been a circuit preacher for more than twenty years, his wife sometimes accom- panying him, and when not, spending her time on the farm. He also told us of having been in districts where thore was sickness caused by milk poisoning, and how by dint of much studying CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 19 and experimenting on such cases as he could get hold of, he mastered the disease and be- came famous among these people. The supposition is that in certain localities there exists a mineral poison which affects the grass on which the cattle feed, and is through the milk communicated to the people, though the cows themselves do not seem to suffer. The first thing to do was to isolate these portions of the ground by building fences around, and for the sufferers he urged purgatives in the first place, and strong tonics next. And when his directions were followed the sick recovered. So after all we spent a very pleasant eve- ning with the Minister and his wife, and at its close there was family prayers where the blessing of God was invoked upon us as "the strangers within our gates", which petition might be favorable to us and certainly could do us no barm. And the next morning Mr. Lane took my husband over his farm, showed him his improvements, stock, etc., while his wife expatiated on the yield of the orchard, and told me all she did with her fruit. But at the time of starting we had a ge- nuine surprise. When Mr. Chavannes inquired of the preacher what our bill was, he made 20 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. the answer: "Nothing at all, I never charge candidates." For of course the object of our trip had been mentioned, and he couldn't but see that all the pamphlets and papers we had in the buggy to be distributed on the way meant some business. "Oh ! that's all right when they belong to your party,'' exclaimed Mr. Chavannes, "but it don't apply to me." "Yes it does," rejoined Mr. Lane, "it is against my principles to charge candidates. You are welcome to what you have had." So with many thanks we took leave of these kind people and continued our journey. But another time when we almost forced ourselves on strangers for the night, they turned out to bo warm and zealous members of our new party, who entertained us royally after their fashion. We had been far away from liome, and were on our return taking short cuts across hills and valleys, where the roads were very rough and where indeed we were not always sure of being on the right track, and had to ask directions, and also as to where there would be a chance to stay all night. "You might stop at Mr. Allen," we were told, "he has plenty of room." "Accommodation for my horse too?" inquired Mr. Chavannes who CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 21 would rather have inconvenienced himself than to let our faithful quadruped suffer. *'Oh! jes, plenty of room, and feed too," was the cheery answer. But when we stopped with our usual query in front of the Allen house, the owner proved to be of a different opinion. Was crowded, there was sickness, etc. "Well," persisted my companion, "couldn't you just give us a room? We'll board ourselves." No, he couldn't do that. "Why, look here,'' at last explained the man, "there's a woman being confined in this house; you surely don't want to impose yourself at such a time?" "Oh! of course not," hastily answered Mr. Chavannes, as I whispered to him: ''For goodness' sake, Albert, don't urge it any more. Let us go on, and if the worse comes to the worst we can always camp out." But as that wasn't the way in which Mr. Chavannes meant we should spend the evening or night, al- though it wouldn't have been the first time for us, be still asked for information and di- rections as to getting to the nearest house. ^'Oh! there's Squire Sea.rle a little ways off," said Mr. Allen, looking somewhat relieved to find that we gave up trying to force our- selves upon him. ''Ke'll take you in, I know, has plenty of room and not much family." 22 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. Indeed the champion of his own rights grew quite enthusiastic over his neighbor's hospita- lity, and from the way he urged us to go and stop there, it was evident he wished to get rid of us as soon as possible. AJl this time we sat in the buggy, the main highway far behind us, for we had taken a private road through Mr. Allen's property to reach his house. And now to help us to get to our destination before night, he showed us a nearer way through his fields, and we glad- ly took it after apologizing for having troubled him, but nevertheless grumbling a little at having to lengthen our day's journey; espe- cially as we had learned by experience that "a little ways off" might mean one or even two miles. It proved to be only one mile this time but darkness had set in as we reached the Squire's house, having been many times delayed by the opening and shutting of gates. We could hardly see each others' faces as we talked to the woman who answered o'lr call, and who hesitatingly permitted us to stay. It was plain that if she could have sent us onward she would have done so, but the fast coming night was in our favor, and Mr. Chavannes so bent on stopping anyhow, that before a man could be summoned to CANVASSING TPIE DISTRICT. 23 Avait on us, he had taken Kate out of the shafts and was leading her to the harn where the woman had directed. Very soon I found that the lady of the house had spent the afternoon away from home, and was only just back, and was doint^ her work alone. So finding her nice and kind- ly disposed, I volunteered to help her in the kitchen where I had followed her. "I won't have to cook much," she said, "there's plenty of cold victuals," for I had begged her not to put herself to any trouble on our account. But the inevitable southern biscuits had to be made and baked and brought smoking hot on the table, which she had let me set in the roomy kitchen. There were several men in the Squirt's household, and at supper the conversation was on general topics, Mr. Chavannes being cau- tious on the subject of politics, for not know- ing to what party these people belonged, he wouldn't have antagonized with them who, for the time being, were putting a roof over our heads. But quite unexpectedly our new party was mentioned in a friendly manner by one of the family — a somewhat unusual occur- rence in those days — and this immediately opened the way for better acquaintance on 24 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. both sides. And when the Squire found where Mr. Chavannes stood, and what doing, he was delighted. "I'm real glad to have you here," he said. "You're the very man we want; we have been trying to send a speaker to Jones- ville, but didn't know where to find him." And then followed inquiries and statements as to the feelings of the people of those re- gions, and Mrs. Searle even neglected to milk her cows, the longer to visit with us. "Let me help you," I said to her. "I know how to milk." But "no, no, the cows don't give much milk and can wait, and I'm not needing it," wa.s the answer. So what awkwardness there had been at first, in being uninvited guests among stran- gers, passed away as we realized that- these people were truly friendly. And the evening was spent pleasantly, the men staying to talk long after the ladies had retired for the night. The next morning arrangements were made for a speaking at Jonesville the following week, and when we left those new-made friends, who wouldn't hear to our paying our bill, it was with pressing invitations to come and visit them again. But time was short and we couldn't go twice to the same place, nor have we had occasion to see them since. CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 26 V. Our trip to Jonesville was effected the week following our visit to the Squire's, but we did not reach our destination without experien- cing some anxious moments. We had left home early on Monday mor- ning, late in October. Frost was on the ground and in the air, making it doubly comfortable to pull the heavy lap robe up and around us, ' so as to keep in all the warmth we were ^^.^ starting with. But in spite of the mist it was , delightful to drive in that cool, bracing air which strengthened us for the coming heat of the day. For when the sun did pierce the frosty atmosphere and dispelled the mist, we realized that his rays had lost none of their potency, and wondered that we could have dreamed' of being cold when we first started. At noon we stopped at the edge of a creek, where was plenty of evidence that other campers had been before us. The remnants . of a fire were there, also some grains of corn and oats were scattered about, and gave oc- cupation to some little pigs who seemed to be having a fine time, trying no doubt to see which could find the most grains in tlie least time, so busy did they show themselves. They 28 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. even proposed to share Kate's dinner, and though she might have made no remonstrance, we strongly objected to it and kept the ob- noxious litter at a safe distance, else our ovi^n lunch would have gone the way of the grain. The road to Jonesville lay past Oliver's Brick House, a hotel at which we had stop- ped on our wedding trip, many, many years ago, and which I at least, had never seen since. But so many changes had taken place in the surrounding country that I never would have recognized the place. And as it happen- ed, we were just in time to see it once more, for when a few days later we drove by on our return, nothing was left of that old and well-known building but a heap of ruins. It had burned to the ground the night before, and was still smoking when we went past. It was late in the afternoon when we reach- ed Oliver Spring, a little village insignificant in itself, but of some importance as a rail- road station in a mining district, and also for being a summer resort on account of its mi- neral waters. There Mr. Chavannes inquired at a store how far yet to Jonesville, and was told that it was five or six miles. What a disappointment! For we had exi^ected that two or three miles would bring us to our CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 27 destination. "If that is the case," said he coming back to the buggy where I sat wait- ing, "we have no time to lose. Old Kate is tired and cannot travel very fast, but we must be going on." And on we went facing the sun, leaving the main thoroughfare and turning to the left into a road by no means smooth, and which soon took us to low lands and a winding creek, that we had to cross several times. That rather retarded our pro- gress, but the shade from the trees bordering the creek was too welcome for us to quarrel with the unevenness of the road. Although acting as if we still had a long way to go, Mr. Chavannes had his doubts of the correctness of the information, and we had not gone far before he inquired of a far- mer taking an airing in his front yard : "How far do you call it to Jonesville?" "Oh! I dunno, 'bout two miles, I reckon," was the unexpected answer. '*I thought the other man didn't get it right," said my companion, "though this one perhaps errs in the opposite direction, and we may yet be many miles from our stopping place, so there must be no loitering on the way." Soon we left the low, shady road and came to rising ground very rough, sometimes rocky, 28 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. and gradually getting steeper, and of course more trying to our faithful mare, who could no longer stand whr?t she did in her youth, and to whom we talked encouragingly, but who had to stop once in a while for a breath- ing spell. It was still warm and Mr. Chavannes began to be uneasy for her. '^'m afraid Kate can't do it," he finally said, ''even if she holds out she can't travel fast enough to take us to Jonesville in time. We'll have to stop on the way and get another horse." ''In that case," I suggested, ''hadn't you better go on horseback? Never mind me, I'll wait till you come back." But it was easy to talk of get- ling another horse, though not quite so easy to find him, for houses began to be few and far between. Though some of the land was under culture, a great deal also lay waste, and occasionally we went through a bit of woodland, seeing or meeting no one. At last when the sun went down the air became cooler, the roads better, and old Kate picked up a little energy. About that time we had the chance of asking a man we met on the road, how far it was to Jonesville? "Oh! about three miles," was the discourag- ing answer. (Wo liad certainly already tra- CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 29 veiled five miles since we left Oliver St rings.) "Oh ! dear !" I exclaimed all out of heart. ''We shall never get there in time." "I wouldn't mind so much if the speaking hadn't been given out," Mr. Chavannes said, '*but there's no help for it; we must reach somewhere to-night, whether I speak or not, but I don't w^ant to disappoint the people if I can help it." And so we went on driving and discussing our chances of getting to Jonesville that eve- ning, congratulating ourselves that we had come to the end of those long steep hills", and in every way trying to keep up our flaj>ging spirits, when suddenly in the stillness of the fast coming twilight, we heard the lowing of cattle not far off. "Oh! good!". I exclaimed, "we must be near some farm house, I'm sure, and can't be far from Jonesville." And then as we turned a corner in the road and dis- cerned a barn at close proximity, we also heard distinctly the ringing of a bell in the distance. "What do you suppose that means?" I inquired of my companion. "Well! I imagine they are ringing to call the people to the speaking," he answered rather confidently. "And the speaker not there!" I exclaimed. *'Did you ever!" "That shows they expect him, and it's so far encouraging," rejoined 30 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. Mr. Chavannes. "It is only to be hoped that Mr. Ball lives not far from the Hall or school house, or wherever I am to speak. Anyway we'll soon get there. So hurry up Kate." By this time we could discern lights ahead, and in a little while we came to a knoll on which was situated the school house, whose big bell had not ceased ringing. A crowd of men and boys were standing around. Mr. Chavannes accosted them, ascer- tained they were getting together for a speak- ing, introduced himself as the speaker, and then inquired the way to our friend Ball, that a willing lad volunteered to show us. And as we proceeded on our way, Mr. Chavannes called out to the crowd: "Don't be discourag- ed boys, as soon as I've put up my horse and had a bite of supper, I'll come and speak to you." "All right." "We'll wait," and "hur- rah !" was heard from many mouths in a way that proved the people were interested, and was very comforting after the last hour or two of anxiety we had gone through. And when we finally reached our stopping place, Mr. Ball who had just got back from a ten miles trip made us heartily welcome. He had two boys by a former marriage, and they with their father and Mr. Chavannes CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. .31 went to the barn to care for the horses, leav- ing me with Mrs. Ball and her baby. She was a pleasant faced womai, with kindly manners, but not a bit of style about her, nor much education. But my! what proportions! I had never since my young days seen such a re- markable bust. She reminded me of the Brazillian Donnas I had often seen in their own country, and thought them wonders of flesh and blood. The next morning when Mrs. Ball was nursing her baby, I couldn't resist saying to her that I thought she might share her good things with those who were not so well endowed by nature, which made her blush and say shyly she "didn't know why she was that way." But this isn't writing of things in their pro- per order. Mr. Chavannes had been expected, but it wasn't known that I would come, and some excuses were made about accommoda- tions not being probably what I was used to. "We are plain folks," explained Mr. Ball, "live plain and do the work ourselves." This was said as we went in the kitchen which was dining room and store room as well, for there, heaped up in a corner, were bushels upon bushels of sweet potatoes, undergoing their "sweat" before being put away for the 32 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. winter; but I assured our host that we were used to work too, and were not afraid of plain living; and I think they became convinced, before we left, of the truth of my assertions. The supper was eaten somewhat hurriedly, so as to be in good time at the school house. All were going except Mrs. Ball and her baby. "I had better take a lamp too," said Mr. Ball as he lit the lantern before starting. "We may need it over there." And sure enough we did, and were glad of the light of that extra lamp among the very few that were there, brought by some thoughtful neighbors. This school house in which Mr. Chavannes was going to speak — by no means a stereo- typed speech — was a log building, rough walls inside and out, with a few windows to give light in the day time, and at night the aud- ience depended entirely upon the lamps and lanterns of their members, if they didn't for- get to bring them. Perhaps it often happened that they did, as on that particular occasion,' for the lanterns were few and far between that hung on the walls, and many corners were left in the darkness of shadows. But on a raised platform was a little table on which Mr. Ball set his lamp for the benefit of the speaker. There was a fire in the stove which CANVASSING THE DISTRICT. 33 stood in the middle of the room, and I sat according to my wont, at a little distance where I could watch both the speaker and the audience. This last was composed mo tly of men, eager listeners, as I was glad to see. Also some women, who had brought their little children along rather than miss the mild excitement a ''speaking^' brought in their neighborhood. This ¥as one of the occasions when Mr. Chavannes had an unusually appreciative au- dience, and at the end of his hour or hour and a half of speaking, many crowded around him for congratulations, explanations, etc.^ And on our return to the Balls in company with their neighbors I heard occasionally such expressions as ''fine speaker!" "'Never heard better." "That's what I call good prac- tical advice," etc., which was all very grati- fying, for Mr. Chavannes was in earnest about enlightening the people, and it was a pleasure to find he was appreciated. Here again we had to share the same sleep- ing room as our hosts, and as on a former occasion we took it in turnabout having some privacy about disrobing and getting into bed. But unlike that other time \^ e slept soundly, nn such a thick feather bed! and were hardly 34 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. disturbed by the baby crying for his midnight lunch. The next morning was a repetition of former experiences which were no longer new, and after a plain though substantial breakfast, we bade goodby to our hosts, after thanking them heartily for their kindness in entertaining us, and went on to other ap- pointments which were to close our canvassing tour. ADAIE. CREEK NOTES. I. Dear friend: As you have expressed the hope that you will visit us some time, I want to tell you something: of our home and sur- roundings, way of living, etc., for you will find many things very different here in the South to what they are in your Northern home. Although we have lived in this part of the country for over thirty years, yet after a six years' stay in the North, we had to get used again to a great deal that was like new to us, though we had no trouble learning to enjoy once more the mild, short winters. Why! think how pleasant it is to go out, as we did NOTE. "Adair Creek Notes" were written many years ago as a contribution to Tlie Sociologist, a Monthly Ma- gazine I was publishing at the time. They covered many subjects, and were received with much favor by my sub- scribers, and I hope that the few I reprint here will prove as acceptable to our readers. Since they were written Adair Creek has been absorbed by the growth of Knox- ville, and the post-oflice of that name replaced by the free delivery, while the turnpike is now a street and is called Broadway. — Albert Chavannes. EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. yesterday, in midwinter, with a party of friends, and put on no extra wraps — only our hiats, that is, the ladies put on hats, and I being- at home, wore my gingham bonnet. Well! before I describe our home, I must tell you how to get there. As you know, we live on a farm a little more than two miles north of Knoxville. As you leave the city you travel on a turnpike, on both sides of which are built pretty cottages, that are for the most part one or two story frame houses, the taste and means of the owners de- ciding the shape, size and outside decorations; a few assume the gothic style, and all look neat and inviting. As you leave the city in the distance, the houses are further apart; we have seen the building of most of them in the last twelve years, for when we first returned from the state of New York, some parts of the road were so isolated that I would not let my thirteen-year-old daughter make the trip alone. There are no telegraph wires on this road, but we boast of a telephone in the neighbor- hood, for the benefit of a gristmill that stands on a creek, about a half mile from our house. Over that creek is a good, high bridge, called ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 37 Long Bridge, not that it is particularly long, but because on the same creek, further on, are three more bridges, and this one being longer than the others, was given the name of Long Bridge. Standing on it, on a bright sunshiny day, one gets such a pretty view of the water-fall and the pond beyond, on which skaters from Knoxville have sometimes tried their skill, such winters as the ice has been thick enough to make skating safe. But that water-fall is a pretty sight when the sun shines on it, for the sheet of water is fifteen feet high, and below it is a large rock which catches the falling drops and sends them up again glit- tering in the light; often have we stopped to admire it on our way to and from town. And right here is quite a picturesque bit of scenery, especially noticeable as } ou walk on beyond the bridge, and come to a little knoll by the side of the road which has been cut almost through, the hill; this last rises abruptly on one side of the road, while down on the other side is the mill-pond, which ex- tends some distance along the turnpike, and beyond that are the fields, and then wooded hills or ridges; for we have left city lots be- hind and come to cultivated farms. 38 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. On the banks of the pond are some large fine oak, elm and sycamore trees, and we have many times watched fishermen and boys, both white and black, sitting under their shade and waiting patiently for the bite of fish which would not be caught; when how- ever patience did have its reward, it was in the shape of small perches and suckers that I have no doubt the fishing people enjoyed taking home. As you walk on, you will see in the dis- tance, on the opposite side of the pond, the district school house, built three years ago; it sei-ves for day-school, Sunday-school and occasionally for preaching; also for debates, where the young and middle-aged bring forth their powers of elocution, and sometimes oc- casion such bursts of laughter as it would please you to hear; we have also been present at some good school exhibitions and concerts given in that building. And in connection with it, I must tell you of a picnic we had on the occasion of choos- ing the location for the school-house; there were three lots offered, and it was hard to decide which would be best, so this neighbor- hood picnic was gotten up as an inducement for the people to come out and help in the ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 39 decision. I remember that a few were very much interested in the school business', but the greater part had come to enjoy themselves, roam about and have fun generally, and I don't blame them; it was a beautiful day and the place well chosen for a picnic. We had no table, but just spread table-cloths on the ground, and on them arranged an inviting supper of cold meats, bread, cakes and pies, and everything that one usually takes to a picnic, and the party did ample justice to the meal, and showed their appreciation of all the good things which had been brought; the water we had to carry from down the hill, our springs being all in the valley, and not as in New York state, on the hill-side. Well! the school question was decided by vote, and the land given by a resident in the neighborhood, a gentleman from the North, who came here many years ago and married and settled here; his house on the hill, sur- rounded a^ it is by tall trees, helps to make up the picturesque scenery I was telling you of. Now as we go on and leave the school-house on the left, we come to a blacksmith shop and another grist-mill, with sycamore and cedar trees all around it. The creek runs just behind it and in some places is almost hid 40 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. from view by the trees and bushes, and as it runs rapidly on its course, it makes num- berless murmuring- cataracts; I have many times gathered mosses and creepers along its banks and stepped across the stream upon rocking stones, and wished I might go bare- foot like so many children, and not mind a little wetting; but I must say there is a good foot-bridge, three feet wide, to cross over to the school-house, which is on high ground: And now, here is the toll-gate, with its old fashioned pole and office; the gate keeper's house is but a step from it, on the other side of the mill-race, over which a little private bridge has been built. In summer both sides of that bridge are lined with flower pots con- taining blooming geraniums, fuchsias, begon- ias and other flowers. Not far from the toll- gate is the country store, where is sold a little of everythidg, from the necessary groce- ries to queensware, dry goods and notions; we can even get fresh meats there in winter, which is a great convenience to us who do not go to the city every day. Right here in the store is tlie Adair Creek post-office, established only two years ago; it stands as a center to about fifteen or twenty houses, scattered within half a mile and ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 41 Which goes by the name of Adair Creek neigh- borhood. They have nearly all been built since we came to live here, so the people are well known to us, and very pleasant friends and neighbors they have always been; we have occasional gatherings at the house of one or the other, and although there are many different opinions on most subjects, nothing unpleasant occurs to mar the friendly inter- course. Our neighborhood is rather a mixed one; some of the people have come from the North and Eastern states, others from Ohio and Missouri, many are the children and grand- children of some of the first settlers in this part of the country; some are farmers, a few work in the mills, one is store-keeper and post-master, several are day laborers, we also have a doctor, but T am glad to say there is not much need for his services. It is a healthy neighborhood, the people work and enjoy them- selves, and though there are no idle ones, nei- ther are there any so bent on making money that they cannot take pleasure along with the work. You know that is the way we enjoy the most, to have recreation alternate with work, and I believe in first making work plea- sant, so it won't be looked upon as a hard task. 42 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. One of the few old houses is built of brick on the other side of the creek, and has a commanding- appearance with its high old- fashioned windows and heavy pillars support- ing the porches ; there are tall poplars around the house and some large old cedars with low spreading branches, and in the front yard are more violets and myrtle than I ever saw any- where else. The owner is a gentleman from the North, he keeps a dairy and takes the milk in Knoxville every day; in summer his wife often takes his place and delivers the milk that he may have more time to spend on his farm. T have taken you slowly along, dear friend, that I might tell you of everything which would interest you, but we are now very near home ; there is, however, one more stream to cross, very narrow this time, for it is only the water from our spring, so there is no need of a regular bridge ; two or three planks have bee n raised on one side of the road and ans- wer the purpose very well. And now, on the right you can see our house, but before we reach it we go by a place, on the left, which we have thought to be one of the prettiest this side of Knoxville. For not many years ago it was our home, which ABAIK CREEK NOTES. 43 We had built and fashioned with our own hands; it is there that we went to live when we returned to this neighborhood, ^nd it was a rather wild spot when we began to build on it, so much so that when we selected the location for the house, I had to gather my skirts close to me so as not to leave any part among the briars. But the place did not long retain its wild looks, we worked and improved it year after year as our time, strength and means permitted, and when we exchanged it for our present home we had built a pretty cottage with a picket fence around it, made winding gravel walks in the front yard, with flower beds alongside, which it was my plea- sure and my pride to care for, we had grape vines and fruit trees, and had made a very comfortable and pretty looking home, where now lives the family with whom we exchang- ed farms. There were many natural advan- tages on the place, one attractive feature be- ing the creek which runs at the back of it^ and sT) many fine large trees scattered on its rocky banks, but the graceful weeping-willow near the house is one that we planted our- selves a few years ago, and which has grown so fast as to be now quite a large tree. 44 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. 11. Dear friend: I will now tell you about our home, the one where we are living now. When \^e came to it three years ago, our friends and relations raised quite an outcry, and thought we were doing a foolish thing to leave a place on which ^e were doing well and come to one where all improvements and embellishments had jet to be made; but we begged them to remember that we had good reasons for our doings, and not to pass judg- ment until they had come to visit us in our new home, for you see at that time we held religious Sunday meetings, at regular inter- vals, with our Swiss friends; and it was also basket meeting, for each family would bring their dinner, and we would put them all toge- ther and have a picnic which we enjoyed very much. So the first time our friends came to this place they quite changed their minds about the farm, and about our doings, for although the house was, and is not attractive, there are many natural beauties around it in the shape of fine old trees, a good, cold spring of lime stone water, and running water in the pastures, all of which advantages are not often found ADAIK CREEK NOTES. 45 on a farm so near the city, and as our inten- tion in coming liere was to keep a dair^^ we were glad to secure tiiese conveniences, and at first put up with a little discomfort about the house. This farm joins one we owned during the war, and which we sold long ago, and when after my marriage I came to live in this neighborhood, the place we now live on was the property and home of an old widow lady with a crippled son and three unmarried daughters, themselves old ladies in my youth- ful eyes; they were kind, hospitable people, and much loved in the neighborhood. The house they lived in was a large, old log house, near it stood a loom house, further off there was an old barn, and some out- buildings, a spring house, etc., but everything looked dilapidated and neglected. There was at the back of the house an old- fashioned garden, with old cedars along one side of it, where the daughters raised what vegetables the.y needed, also a little corn and potatoes, etc., but it was hard work for them and yet there was no help for it, At that time fields were not so easily rented as they are now, and as there was no one in the family to take hold and manage affairs and 46 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. work the farm, which was then very large, everything was much neglected; the fences were old and broken down, the fields were overrun with sassafras and other sprouts, also with broom-sedge, a kind of grass peculiar to the South and which the cattle will not eat except when it is tender and green. So you see the good people had some trouble in making both ends meet, and to help them one year the neighbors got together to raise a crop on the MacCampbell place, and they worked it in turn through the summer until the corn was gathered. I have wanted to give you an idea of how the place looked twenty-five years ago, when we used to come to it often, the distance between the two farms not being considerable and the way mostly through shady woods, which are now a thing of the past, for the land is all under cultivation. But then it was so pleasant to walk over to visit the old ladies and have a quiet chat with them, at first carrying our little baby daughter, then later leading two little ones by the hand, and these kind ladies always made us welcome. I remember how Mrs. MacCampbell told us of her mother hiding in the woods, with her and other children, to keep out of the way A DA IK CKEEK NOTES. 47 of Indians, who about seventy-five years aj?o were yet disturbing the first settlers in that part of tlie country. Well, Mrs. MacCampbell died soon after I knew her, so that my acquaintanc.e was rather with the daughters, who remained several years on the farm before they sold it. Their brother was crippled by paralysis, he could just hobble along slowly with the help of a stick, and would come to our house for a short visit and to beg for some tobacco, which he also asked from everybody he met, for chew- ing was one of his few enjoyments, and he was not able to gratify it. I could hardly make out his talk, for his speech was also affected by palsy. He was fond of children, but was the terror of our little ones, for his ways were none of the gentlest, and his voice was deep and hoarse and frightened them. He was a big, fat man, and entirely depen- dent on his sisters for help in dressing, eat- ing, etc., but they were patient and kind and bore the self-imposed burden without a mur- mur. Sometimes the old man had fits, of what kind I don't know, but when the sisters got frightened or needed help, they would blow their tin-horn, used in those times as a dinner-horn instead of a bell, and the near 48 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. neighbors would come to assist, or advise, a? the case might be. Now, before I return to the present time, I will add that the MacCarapbell sold their farm during the war, and went to live in Knox- ville. The new proprietor built a small frame house and a stone spring house on this part of the farm, near the old buildings, then di- vided his land into small tracts which he sold. This portion has had many proprietors since that time, and each one has made some change about the buildings, both putting up new ones, or adding to what were there, or tearing down the old ones, so that to-day not a trace remains of what existed some years ago. Now you would think that a house which has been built in so many different times ought to be a convenient and comfortable one, but we did not find it so. It was evident that no woman had helped in the plan of the house, and no wonder for several of the pro- prietors were bachelors, who did not under- stand much about conveniences in house-keep- ing. There was no pantry, no shelves or cup- boards, which are so necessary to a good house-keeper, even if they do make so many more corners to clean up. ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 49 So after waiting till we were able as to time and means, we tried to improve the con- dition of things by building a large dining room, and a kitchen and pantry; that is the kitchen and pantry are new, and the dining room which used to be a kitchen separate from the house, we have only added to so as to bring it all under one roof, and now we have a large, convenient living room, which we calcimined and papered ourselves, and in which we eat and work, and in winter do the cooking. The appearance of the house is long and narrow, four rooms on the front, opening one into the other and also on the porches, mak- ing each room independent of the others; first at the west end is the spare bed room, sometimes occupied in summer by visitors or boarders, then comes our bed room, next a large, cool sitting room, and last on the east side is our boy's little bed room. From the sitting room we walk into the dining room, and from that by a side door into the kitchen and pantry, in which last there is a trap door to go down cellar; so now I feel quite set up, as the saying is, for besides these conveni- ences we have a water tank in the kitchen, with 9, pump to bring up the water. 50 EAS'J' TENNESSEE SKETCHES. I ought to have said at first that the house stands on rising ground, some distance from the pike; there are several large trees around it, and it fronts a meadow along the whole length of which runs in a serpentine way the brook from our spring, and that brook is at all seasons of the year covered with water- cresses which look so fresh and green, and in winter make a pretty contrast with the fallen dead leaves and the dried grass in the meadow. These cresses, cooked like greens or eaten as salad a,re quite a treat for those who l?ke them; we use them in early spring or in the fall when there is a new growth. Poor people come to gather these cresses and sell them in Knoxville, and sometimes there are as many as seven or eight women and children scattered along the edge of the stream, pulling and cutting away at the cresses, which we let them take so they do not come too near the house. Water-cresses grow and spread so fast that we have some trouble keeping them out of a little pond, caused by an enlargement of the brook, or branch, as we call it; this little pond is just in front ;0f the house, and near it is the only weeping-willow we found on the place, but we have planted more all along the bropk. ADATR CEEEK NOTES. 51 III. Dear friend: Now that I have somewhat made you acquainted with our surrounding's, I will tell you about ourselves and our doings as I know that you take an interest in what concerns us. T mentioned in my last letter that in coming to this farm we intended to keep a dairy, and we did carry out our plan very much to our satisfaction. There was al- ready a dairy business started on the place, but the milk was sold in Knoxville every day and we wanted to make butter and cheese, for we knew by experience that it was as profitable and less binding- than takin? the milk to town every day, and even twice a day in summer. So we began with twelve cows, and only sold milk for a few weeks to have time to get ready for cheese making, and give customers a chance to engage milk else- where, dairies being plentiful. We had before hand engaged a cousin of ours to come and milk and have the care of the cows. This cousin had come from Switz- erland when a young man, had bought a farm in our neighborhood several years before the war, had married an American girl and settled here. He and his family were our fellow- 62 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. travellers during the war, when we went north; we lived together six months in Ohio, then we went to the state of New York and they to Illinois; after a time they came back to Knoxville and bought a farm fifteen miles away from here, having sold the other before leaving Tennessee. A few years ago our cou- sin's wife died leaving six children, but he has taken another, and it was with her and his four youngest children that he moved on this farm some weeks before we did. He had while a young man been on a farm in Ger- many, where he had learned about the care of cows, so milking was nothing new to him, though it would be to most native farmers, the milking of their one or two cows being generally the work of women. Our cousin's oldest boy here was thirteen years old, and he helped his father take care of the cows and milk, but when that was ac- complished their share of the dairy work was done and mine began. I had as help an Irish girl we had befriended the year before, when her fatlierless baby was born at a neighbor's; she was young, strong and willing to work and help us, if we would only give her and her baby a home with us; she was already here, having lived a few months with the ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 53 family who had just moved out, and I was glad to secure her services, for I knew there would be some heavy work to do in cleaning-, which would be too much for me alone. Now, when talking over our cheese-making enterprise, we had planned a small house by the branch so as to have plenty of water at hand, and cool water too, to keep the milk sweet in summer,, and we thought of churning by water power, and have in fact a regular dairy house, but when the time drew near to start the cheese-making, we began to see difficulties in the way. Having a separate building was not going to be very convenient for me, who was, and am, cook and also cham- bermaid, as well as dairy woman, then also water at any distance from the spring gets warm very quickly in summer, and altogether what had seemed to be just the thing at the beginning, was not quite so feasible the nearer we got to the time of trial. So we made up our minds to begin right at home, in the kit- chen, and a very good way it proved to be. Again here in the manufacture of the cheese our plans had to be changed ; we intended to make rich cheese, that is, use new milk in the morning, and skim but little the night's milk, as is done in most cheese dairies, but 64 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. we knew that it was a. little risky and trouble- sonie to make and keep cheese in this climate. Before the war we had engag'ed in cheese manufacture, kept from thirty to forty cows, and had a regular dairy-man who gave great satisfaction; he loved his work and put his heart in it and succeeded fully in his under- taking, as was shown by our cheese receiving the first premium at an East Tennessee Divi- sion Fair. But T remember ho^ difficult it was to keep the cheese just right, neither too dry nor too damp; a proper situation had to be chosen for the cheese-house on the side of a wooded hill, so as to have shade in summer, and keep flies out; then a cellar had to be dug and the cheese kept always at the same temperature, and even v/ith all possible care some would often decay, still as we were working on a large scale we found profit in it. But here we were going to work in a small way, doing everything ourselves, and wanted to make it as easy and convenient as possible, and concluded to make skim-milk cheese, and butter, and have been very much pleased and encouraged in our undertaking; the cheese keeps well, and butter commands a good price in Knoxville. ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 65 Good butter can be made here just as well as in the north or west; there are so many springs all through the country that could be made available to keep the milk and cream cool durin^^ the warm weather, but the people are as yet too careless or ig-norant to take any pains to make good butter; and after all why should they when their white, foamy butter brings them sometimes as much money as that which is firm and j^ellow? Yet there are many townspeople who will pay an extra price for really good butter. I know by experience that good butter can not be made if the cream is kept and churned at a higher temperature than 60 or 65 degrees according to the season of the year, and then the butter must be worked over several hours after churning and salting. That is one thing the farmers' wives here cannot understand why it should be, and will not do because it is a little more trouble, yet it makes a vast difference in the looks and taste of the butter. I have to thank my northern friends for my knowledge and improvement in that line, for once I did no better than those we have around us. Well! now about cheese-making, we are going on in the samo way wo began, in sum- 56 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. mer the milk is kept in the spring-house, in winter here in the house, to make the work easier; every morning I skim the milk of the day before, make the cheese and keep the cream to be churned the next day when it is soured. When the cheeses are sufficiently pressed they are put in the cellar on a swing shelf, and are turned every day, and sold once a week after keeping twenty days at least. But though the cheese is made the same way now as then, our help is not the same; our cousin stayed with us only one year, and went back on his farm where he is now dai- rying, and our strong Irish girl left soon after hoping to better herself. It seemed to us when first one, then another left, that we would have some difficulty in going on by ourselves, still we did not feel discouraged. Mr. Chavannes could spare more time from the farm, our boy was getting strong and able to help, and I had got used to the work, so that our farming, dairy work and house-keeping have gone on smoothly, with the help of a hired man who lives on the place with his family, and of a colored girl in the house. ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 57 IV. Bear friend: I had not thought when I be- ^an to write about our home and work, that there would be so much to say about it, yet I find that I must take up the subject again if I would tell you, not only what the work of each one is, but in what spirit we do it. In the first place, you must know that each one of us has his own distinct department of work, in which no one interferes. For instance, Mr. Chavanues' department is the manage- ment of the farm and of our Monthly Magazine. Neither our boy or myself try to manage or direct in this matter; if help or advice is de- sired, it is asked for and willingly given, but all the responsibility of this share of the work rests upon him. In the same way, house- keeping and the management of the dairy business are my special work and care, and I don't expect the others to plan and work for me unless T need and ask for their help. Our son also understands that in his depart- ment he has some responsibility; part of his work is a daily routine, and we" require him to work so many hours each day, and during that time to accomplish a certain amount of work. 68 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES, We have been liberal with him as regards time for the amount of work we require from him, and, by steady application he often gains two or three hours in the day, that are his to spend as he pleases; sometimes he emploj'-s his spare time working on the farm, liis father having given him the use of a piece of ground on which this year he is raising oats, and last year he had wheat: Sometimes he goes out hunting; last fall he bought a new breech - loading shot gun, which he paid for himself, all the profits of the occasional job printing being his; thus we give him an incentive to work, and try to miake him feel that he is a part of our little community. Even our col- ored girl knows that she has an interest in doing lier work well and quickly; when her usual task is done, she can then have time for play or pleasure, but no one is going to undertake her task for her. Now I don't want you to think from what I said that we are strict and indifferent to one another's comfort for it is all the other way. We have ever j? thing in common, our plans for improvement of self and surroun- dings, our pleasures and recreations, are all made subjects of discussion at the table or during evening liours, and we find that it is ADAIR CEEEK KOTES. 59 the easiest and pleasantest way in which to work to the best advantage, that each one should have his or her appointed task. I may not be able to say as much about the farm as I would about house work, but will tell you that Mr. Chavannes cultivates himself loart of the farm, and rents the re- mainder to a man w^ho lives on the place, and who also works for him when he needs help. Sometimes Mr. Chavannes and our boy ex- chang:e work, farming for type setting, or per- haps while his father prints, our son drives the wagon, always trying to so arrange things that at no time either one should feel over- tired with one kind of work; also keeping in mind the rule that the work which suits one person best, is the one which he or she is the best fitted to do. Mr. Chavannes also has a small broom shop, for he has for many years engaged in a small way in the broom business; it is perhaps the only kind of work in which he does not get help, though before we bought our printing press, our boy sometimes helped his father in the shop; it is convenient work for rainy days, but Mr. Chavannes does less of it than formerly. I said before that our printing outfit, that eO EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. we use to print our Magazine, is in the din- ing room, so we are thrown a great deal to- gether during working hours, and I find it is encouraging to be able to tell one another how we are progressing during the day. There is generally one of us setting type or distri- buting it; our son is the quickest, while I am rather made fun of for being so slow; but I don't mind it, for every little helps the work along. The work which we three always do together is milking; very often when so engaged we sing, and you have no idea how much easier it seems to make the work. Years ago, when our daughter was with us, we used to sing a great deal, but since she married and took away her organ we have neglected our music very much, and only lately have taken it up again on account of our son who seems desirous to learn, and to encourage him we have bought a new ins- trument; and though I can play but little, many of our friends are musicians and please us with their music when they come. I have not yet told you about my cheese- making, so will tell you now, though the process may not be new to you. As a rule I make the cheese every morning; I skim when ready to warm the milk, and to avoid heavy ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 61 lifting of the boiler, I only put in half the milk in it and heat it more than necessary and enough to bring the milk to 100 degrees when the other half is added, after the boiler has been placed on the floor. Then I put in a few drops of cheese coloring, a vegetable extract which we get at the drug store, and lastly put in the rennet liquid, which I pre- pare myself by soaking one rennet in a gallon of water, salting and straining, and then put- ting away ready for use; one cupful of this liquor will curd twelve gallons of milk, and it takes twenty minutes to do it. Then I cut the curd with a wooden knife, and as fast as the whey rises I dip it up and warm it in a skillet so as t^ pour it back on the curd, for it is necessary that the curd should be warm- ed in order to separate it from the whey, and that is the easiest way to do it. While the milk is warming I go about my other work, and also while it is curding, and when comes the dipping up of the whey I get help from the girl until it is time to salt and break up the curd evenly with the hand, then put it in a cloth and in a hoop under the press. That finishes the cheese-making for that day, except that it must be turned several times in the following twelve hours. 62 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. All this work is very interesting and pleas- ing to me, for I like to T^^ork with the milk. The butter making goes on at the same time, but I hardly ever churn now, only get the churning ready. This year it is done by a daughter of our renter, who is paid with milk. Many a time when 1 have planned to go out visiting for a day and ch^^ese had to be made, I have got up earlier than usual and skimmed and warmed the milk before break- fast, so it might be curding while we ate; on such days I am excused from the milking. Or it might be the cheese was made on re- turning home after a day spent with friends, and if it was late I alwaj^s received the help I needed. All the cleaning up of utensils, I am glad to say, I can leave to our little mu- latto girl, but of course I superintend it. As much as possible T keep my afternoons for writing, sewing, visiting, magazine work, etc., the morning being pretty much taken up with the milk and housekeeping concerns, but if things do not turn out as we would like, we have learned, and are learning yet to make the best of whatever happens, and take life easy and have it pleasant for ourselves and others, and not fret over that which can not be helped. ADAIK CREEK NOTES. 68 V. Dear friend: In my letters to you I have been describing much of our life, associates, surroundings, etc., and now I feel like having a quiet ''talk" with you. I want to tell you my thoughts and feelings on some subjects. As you know, we lead a quiet, happy life here in our little family, but I would not have you believe that it is all chanc^ or good luck, as so many who have told us so. No, indeed, for not only is there no such thing as luck, but there was a time when we did not understand as much of the laws of nature and of what is conducive to happiness as we do now, so that our present' state of content- ment is the result of our studying what would make us happy and satisfied, and then putting in practice as much as possible what we have found would make us so. And the first requisite to happiness is health, for how can we enjoy and be glad if we suf- fer? Now I am willing to acknowledge that we have unusual good health, but we promote it as much as possible by wearing sensible clothing, eating and drinking what we find suits us best, by sleeping as much as our sys- tem requires, and by rest; yes, rest during 64 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. the day, before we get so tired that we can not enjoy even that. Now, I don't mean by rest that we ait down and do nothing, but a change of work is often a rest. But in this matter of work I must say that we have had to teach ourselves to do only that amount of it that is actually necessary, and leave the rest undone. Perhaps it does not sound right for a housekeeper to say this, but dear friend, have you not some- times thought how much work is done unne- cessarily, from habit, or because from child- hood we have been taught that some things must be done in a certain way, and that if we failed to perform them just so, we failed to accomplish our duty? I know that for my part, I have too long worked, and worked hard too, performing that which I considered ne- cessary and was tiresome in body and mind, and yet benefited no one. It might have been the sweeping and dust- ing of a room, so as to have it in extra good order, or the ironing of clothes which it made no difference to the wearer whether they were ironed or merely folded smooth ; or the nicely finishing up of some sewing that might have been more plainly done. In any of those things, and many more, that ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 65 are done from pride or as I said, habit, we have had to learn to do every day only so much as is necessary, so as to have some time left for reading-, music, recreation, etc., for you must know that work has by no means diminished with us of late years, rather the contrary, and if we did not act in this w^ay which is so much more satisfactory, m e would, like many we see around us, be overworked and overtired ; and if you try it you will find that it pays to "sift" our work. Of course there is a large amount of it that must be done; cows must be milked, meals must be cooked, and beds made every day, but a wife and mother is not always obliged to milk, and the food might often be plainer than it is, and if beds cannot be made in the morning for lack of time, why, the afternoon will do just as well. Although I say this, do not imagine that we have no order or system about our work. If we did not we never could get along, but we pay no attention to the established way of doing things, and have organized our work to suit ourselves. And that it is a good way we know by the results, and also because many friends who have staid w ith us have expres- sed their surprise that we could accomplish 66 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. so much in a day. And I will even own to you that we are by no means early risers, but when we do get up in the morning we feel refreshed and ready to work, and it is very seldom that night comes and does not find us in good spirits, ready for reading or music, a game of cards or backgammon, or whatever we may wish to do. Without boasting I will tell you that all those who have lived with us, even for a short time, have told us before they left that they had been impressed by the feeling of peace and contentment reigning in our home. And here I want to tell you how I have felt sorry for those poor women, farmers' wives they mostly are, who write to the pa- pers and tell of their hard lives, and how they long for the emancipation of women and welcome the efforts made in that direction, and who cannot see that the needed change is in themselves. It seems as though they expected some great and sudden revolution to set them free from bondage, when it is in all the minor details of life that the change must be made, and made through themselves. I have no doubt you have experienced it often that it is through little things that life is made pleasant, or becomes a burden to us. ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 67 I am sure that if these poor tired women had begun their married life on an equal footing with their husbands, and limited their fami- lies to only so many children as were welcome and could properly be taken care of, and then had taught their children to help themselves and be independent from their early years, the lives of both parents and children \\ould have been much happier. Another thing which is also necessary to our happiness, and the truth of which we re- alize more of late, is that we need change in whatever shape we may get it; and however small that change may be in the daily rou- tine of our lives, it is sure to be beneficial to us, for as T told you before, it is in pleasant little things that our happiness consists. As for ourselves we encourage all that can make us so, and though our life is quiet, it is by no means monotonous ; we have a good deal of intercourse with those around us, and also several persons on the place whom we must see every day about one thing or an- other; we also go to Knoxville quite often and see our friends and relations there. Another enjoyment is attending debates at the school house, generally once in two weeks, when Mr. Chavannes is always one of the speakers. (58 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. We Wave also entertained friends and rela- tions several times during the year for a few days or weeks, as the case might be, though on account of our worli we have refused to take summer boarders as we used to do All this, as you understand, makes a diversion in our life, by bringing us in contact with others, exchanging thoughts, and giving us an opportunity to learn as well as teach, many things of interest. Occasionally, once in a great while, we do a little travelling, only one at a time, for we cannot all be spared from home at present. Mr. Chavannes went north last year, our son went to the Louisville Exposition, and goes every spring to visit his sister, and stays a few weeks at her house, and I was there last winter on the occasion of welcoming our first grand-child. Before I stop this letter, I must tell you that a great source of enjoyment to us are the many pleasant missives we receive from subscribers to The Sociologist, they send \is words of encoura'gement and cheer such as we hardly expected to get, and it has been the means of our getting acquainted with many congenial spirits, and we look upon them all as dear friends. ADAIR CREEK NOTES. VI. Dear friend: Of late years, and especially quite recently, there has been a ^reat deal said and written about hygiene and improv- ed modes of living, so as to secure better health, but although these ideas are surely, if slowly,,, spreading and taking firm root in the people's mind, how many do you think really understand what it means to ' takp care of one's self"?. Usually one thinks that in making a tho- rough reform in one's ways of life a better state of health will be attained, and conse- quently more happiness be enjoyed. Some try to stop working, or work as little a^ pos- sible so as to not get tired, but they forget that one gets tired doing nothing. Many try hygienic food, but our observations have led us to believe that they enjoy no better health than those who indulge judiciously in what- ever they desire to eat. Others again in their endeavors to live right have taken to uncook- ed food; of this last trial we have no exper- ience, but we are sure of one thing, that as the world never moves backward, so it will not go back to a barbarous way of living. Well! now you may wonder if after finding 70 EAST tennp:ssee sketches. fault with othe^ people's experiments, I have any better method to bring forward. T think I have and will tell you of it. In the first place remember that I look upon the body as a machine, so we learn from those who have studied the subject. Now any one who owns or works a piece of machinery, wants to be thoroughly acquainted with all its different parts, so as to use it with judg- ment, and put no undue strain upon it. Take for instance a sewing machine. A woman who uses it constantly knows veil the neces- sity of oiling it every day; it will not do to neglect that performance and hear the ma- chine squeak, and think to-morrow will do as well to oil it, for to-morrow, for lack of the oil that is needed to make it run smooth, some parts of the machinery may be worn out so that no amount of future oiling, or rubbing and cleaning, will bring it back to its former state. And so it is with the body, if we are not careful all the time, it will not long stand the "wear and tear" that we are likely to let come upon it. This is our method: to work every day ac- cording to our ability, but to intermingle our work with plenty of rest. 1 have written this ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 71 to you before, and I say it again because I find it of so much importance. A tired mind and body cannot work advantageously. A tired person worries and frets and cannot enjoy or help the enjoyment of others. One who feels continually tired is certainly run- ning his or her machine without oil. What then is this oil which is to work such won- der in our feelings? It is Rest. When we are rested we can accomp'ish so much more than when we are tired ; the smile will come to our face instead of the complaint to our lips, and what may have seemed like moun- tains of trouble will dwindle down to a very small amount of labor. Perhaps you think I write on this subject, but have no experience in that direction. It is not so. for I have tested the manv different ways of working that are in vogue, and have found none so satisfactory as our present one. I will tell you something of how I came to learn and change to my actual belief and mode of action. From a girl I was always fond of house- keeping, but never had to exert myself much in that line until I was fourteen, at which time I was strong and well able to stand the unusual strain of work brought upon us by 72 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. adverse fortune. When 1 married I was, in a small way, quite competent to manage my household affairs, and took much pride and pleasure in doing- the work, and as I had plenty of leisure time and recreation, I did not feel the need of putting a check on my impulses of overdoing. But when we went north, during the war, ^rand settled in a small town where nearly every woman was a noted housekeeper, I found that I fell far short of being one my- self, and set to work to deserve as good a reputation as any of my lady friends. What gave them the name of good and tho- rough housekeepers was this, they did all their work themselves. Papering and; white- washing, house-cleaning, putting down carpets, washing and ironing, baking, sewing, etc. In fact there was nothing they could not do, and if some had, to have hired, help they were talked about as too nice to work, and T who had been used to do that only which was necessary, and take plenty of comfort in life, began to think that my education had been sadly neglected, and that it was time I should learn all that a woman ought to know. And I did learn, and with the knowledge of thorough housekeeping, as it was looked ADAIR CREEK NOTES. 73 upon there, came at times a feeling of weari- ness, and I was less ready to take enjoyment when it was at hand, I was, without know- ing it, sacrificing my health and also my com- fort and that of my family to the demands of King-Work. But then I had the satisfac- tion (?) of knowing that in matters of house- hold economy I could hold up my head with any of my neighbors. One intimate friend I had, who although she was a help to me in many ways, also had a baneful influence over me for many years. Enjoyment, comfort, rest, only came with her as secondary matters in life, and work was everything. To be sure we had social gather- ings, pleasant tea parties, etc., but they were not enjoyed in the spirit they should have been, for there was generally a lurking thought as to whether the rooms were in perfect order, or the supper table arranged as it should be, and would everything come off in the approv- ed style? You see all that was in itself a burden to carry when it should have been no burden at all. But I did not know much then of the laws of health and happiness. It was only after our return to Tennessee, when we had to make a new start as I called it, for there 74 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. was land to clear, a house and barn to build, prarden to make, etc., then the taking care of a little baby, that I began to see that a change must be made in the arrangement and quan- tity of my work, and I had to learn to dis- criminate between what it was actually ne- cessary to do, and what was done merely for show and through habit. I assure you it went against the grain, as the saying is, to have to leave undone what I had learned must not be neglected, but my health imperatively required it, for I had been spending more strength than I could spare and had to pay the penalty. Fortuna- tely I learned a better way of managing be- fore any serious trouble came upon me, and it was very encouraging to find that although I did not sweep, dust and mop and iron as much as had been my wont, no' one felt the difference, but we were all rather benefited by a little more rest and reading at what might seem odd times, and there was also more cheerfulness and pleasant exchange of thoughts, for mine were not always on work or fretting for what I had not accomplished. About that time I heard Mr. Chavannes tell a friend who was inclined to overwork herself, that if she had to carry a burden a A DA IK (REEK NOTES. 76 long distance, the best way to accomplish her object would be to rest often on the ^ ay. That gave me food for reflection, and I found through experience that he was right. Of course you know I do not mean that we should stop every little while during our work, but whenever we feel that what we are engaged in is a tax upon our strength, our power of thought, our sight, or any other of our facul- ties, it is high time we changed our occupa- tion and rested thoroughly. In fact we ought never to wait until a dis- like for exertion comes upon us, as that shows that we already have done too much, and that we must give our bodies a chance to recruit. As I have said before, we can actually accom- plish a larger task, and with greater ease, if we rest often than if we work right along, allowing ourselves no breathing spell in the hope of being through quicker. We may in that way accomplish a task a little sooner, but we shall have to pay in impaired health and contentment more than the work ever was worth. Now you will know that I can speak from experience on the subject upon which I have written to you. I am no longer over-particu- lar in doing my work, and yet I claim to be 76 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. neat and clean, and through a better system of management I am accomplishing now a greater variety of work than I did years ago. The results of independence are also keenly enjoyed now. As long as I entertained the idea of duty, I felt obliged to give up all my desires and thoughts of self to the accom- plishment of whatever was set before me to do. I have no doubt you have many times acted as I did, and although it may have been hard to obey the call of duty, yet there was a sort of grim satisfaction in knowing that we had acted right. (Though it really was not right. ) But I wish you would try as I did, not to do anything that would not repay you in some way. Let the trial be made gradually, that you may feel sure that you are moving in the right direction, but do not wait for a more fitting time. There is no better time than the present and our first duty is to our- selves, and if each one of us will be true to himself or herself, no one will suffer through our independence. SlUNDEES' RAID ON ENOZYILLE. In the summer of 1863, before Burnside came to Knoxville, we were living in the city where I was busy with some work connected with the commissary department. One morning I had occasion to go to the depot, and found everything in turmoil and confusion. Upon inquiry, T learned that a large force of Federal cavalry had crossed over from Kentucky into East Tennessee, and were 1 leading in this direction, with the object, it was supposed, to burn the railroad bridges at Loudon and Strawberry Plains, and to destroy the large military stores in Knoxville. As it was not known whether the city could be successfully defended, every available car was being load- ed with government stores, ready to be sent off toward Virginia at a moment's notice, if it should become necessary. All that afternoon active preparations were made for the defense of the place; ths few pieces of artillery in the city were put in 78 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. position, the men working in the government shops were organized into companies and ar- med, and every measure was taken to present the best possible front with the small force available at that time. One of these mea- sures was to issue a. call to the citizens to volunteer, and at night, in answer to that call, three young men who boarded at our house and myself decided to join the citizens' company. It was dark when we started to look them up, and it took us some time to locate them, which we finally did at the extreme left of our line of defense. Upon reporting to the Captain, we were first sent to the Armory for guns and ammunition, and on our return were X-)laced last in the line, which extended all along Summit Hill, above the railroad. A little later, Captain MacCluno, the officer in charge of the Armory, came up with his employees and formed on our left, thus further strengthening our position. Nothing was known of the movements of the raiders, except that they had reached the railroad between Knoxville and Loudon, for they had cut the wires between these two places, and it was supposed that they would follow the valley up to Knoxville. SAUNDERS' RAID ON KNOXVILLE. 79 The supposition proved to be correct, for after waiting in perfect silence for about a couple of hours, we suddenly heard in the stillness of the night, a brisk but desultory fire to the west of the city, in the direction from which the Federals were expected. I have been sufficiently tried to know that while I am not specially brave, yet I am no coward, but I shall never forget the effect that the hearing of these few shots had upon me. A cold shiver ran down my back, and I felt very solemn for a little while. But the feeling soon passed off never to come back, and I am glad to say that the next day, in the more serious fight which took place, my only anxiety was that we should present a brave front and beat off the enemy. We all expected that these few shots would prove the precursors of a night attack, but everything quieted down, and the night pas- sed without further alarm, the time being spent in talking over our prospects of success- ful resistance, or getting snatches of sleep stretched on the bare ground. In the morning we had the first reliable news of the movements of the Federals. A dispatch from Loudon — only thirty miles distant — sent all the way round by Atlanta, 80 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. and through North Carolina and Virginia, then back to Knoxville, was published in the morning papers, to the effect that a force of Yankee cavalry under the command of General Saunders, estimated to be two thou- sand strong, had made a demonstration against the railroad bridge at Loudon, but on finding its approaches well fortified and guarded by a regiment of Virginians, had turned in the direction of Knoxville. It was also rumored among us that the Federals, when met by our scouts during the night, had turned to the left, and were now camped in the woods in front of us, and that an attack might be expected at any time. Soon after the circulation of these news, an incident happened which goes to show what nerve and decision will do in deciding the fortunes of war. The position our company occupied guarded the entrance into the city through the Jacksboroui*-h pike, at that time the only macadamized road leading into Knoxville. We were on the side of a hill, and below and in front of us was the railroad. The pike ran straight in plain sight for seve- ral hundred yards, then turned and was hid- den from view by a large brick building, a steam flour mill. SAUNEERS' RAID ON KNOXVILLE. 81 About that time three or four private citi- zens started to ride up that pike to do a little scouting on their own account, and were soon lost to sight, hidden by the turn in the road. A few minutes later, we heard some shots in that direction, followed by a tremen- dous clattering noise, as if a thousand horses were coming toward us at full gallop on the stone road. We never doubted but that the enemy was charging upon us, and quickly falling into line, we got ready to give them a warm re- ception, our Captain walking back and forth repeating: -'Keep cool, gentlemen, do not fire too soon, wait for the word of command", when instead of the expected charge of ca- valry, we saw first our scouts waving white handkerchiefs, and right behind them, coming as fast as their horses could gallop, four pieces of artillery, escorted by a company of Confederate soldiers. Cheer upon cheer rent the air at the welcome sight of this unex- pected reinforcement. The explanation of this timely arrival was this. That battery had been stationed near Knoxville all summer, and at the first news of the raid had been ordered out to the Clinch river, some twenty miles off, to defend 82 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. a ford where it was expected the Federals would try to cross. When it was known that the raiders had taken another road, a courier was sent after them, with orders to come back in haste to take part in the defense of Knoxville. They had traA^elled all night, and having no means of learning the movements of the Federals, had when nearing the city fallen right among them where they had es- tablished their camping ground. Happily they did not strike the Federals in the centre of their position but at the extreme right, and caused them as much surprise by their unexpected arrival as it was to them to find the enemy between them and the city. Their Captain must have been a born soldier and a man of decision, for without a moment of hesitation, he ordered his men to dash at full gallop down the road past the Federals, who before they could realize what had hap- pened, allowed them to pass harmlessly through their midst and get beyond danger of capture. They had then met our scouts, who naturally had mistaken them for the Federals, and fired some shots to give us the alarm, but upon finding out their mistake, had taken position at their head so as to pre- vent their being fired upon from the city. The SAUJSDERS' RAID ON KNOXVILLE. 83 battery was sent at once to occupy a threat- ened position, and did good service in the fight which soon followed. Probably one hour passed without anything of importance taking place, and we had com- menced to believe that there would be no fight, when the Federals made a demonstra- tion, and in so doing gave us the finest mil- itary spectacle which it has ever been miy luck to see. In front of us, some fifteen hun- dred yards away, was a low flat ridge, along the whole length of which Fifth Avenue is now located. Then it was a piece of woodland, the trees large and far apart, with the under- brush cleared, and having very much the ap- pearance of a park. The Federals were encamped behind that ridge, out of sight, and forming in companies, suddenly rode up to the top in platoons, their numbers being sufficient to extend from one end of the hill to the other. Arrived at the top they deployed fronting us and gave cheer after cheer of defiance, to which we as defi- antly responded. It was a beautiful spectacle. The sky was perfectly clear and of the deepest blue, the trees covered with their green foliage, and the Federals in their dark uniforms, as they 84 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. rode up in sight with military precision, seemed when flnaMy formed in a line on the top of the hill, to have been drawn off for our inspection. But it did not last very long. No sooner had our cheers died away, when our two pieces of artillerj^ nearest to our com- pany opened upon them; the first shot went wild, but the second hit fairly in the center of one of the platoons, scattering men and horses in all directions. Before the guns could be reloaded the whole force wheeled back and disappeared from our sight, their place being taken by two light pieces of rifled ar- tillery which they had brought with them. The balance of the fight was an artillery duel, with few casualties on either side, but in which Knoxville lost one of its best citi- zens. This was Captain MacClung, of whom I have spoken as the officer in charge of the Armory. We had spent the night close toge- ther. I was the last man of the citizens' com- pany, while Captain MacClung stood at the head of his employees, who were next to us. After the artillery fire had commenced, and when there was no danger of a charge for the time being, we stood together looking at the firing. We could see the flash of the Fe- deral guns, and following the whizzing of the SAUNDERS' RAID ON KNOXVILLE. 85 shells, watch where they struck. The first went high over our men, and the next struck as much too low. After looking- a m hile. Cap- tain MacClung said tome: ''Mr. Chavannes, I am going up there, where I can have a better view of these fellows," and walked up to our cannons, standing by their side fully exposed. Unhappily for him about that time the Federals got the right range, and the next shell struck him, carrying oil both his legs. He was taken to his home, and an effort was made by the surgeons to save his life, but he died a few hours after. Until that time, our men had taken no ad- vantage of the cotton bales which had been placed for their protection, but I noticed that after tliat, they would watch for the flash and take refuge behind the bales until the danger was past. I do not know how long this duel lasted, but to me it seemed very short. When the Federals withdrew their pieces they kept out of our sight, and as we had no means of know- ing if they had left the vicinity for good, or only retired to prepare for a more serious at- tack, we spent the next hour or two in doing what we could to strengthen our position. Our compan;'-, which had stood exposed in full So KAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. sight, was drawn off behind a strong fence, and retrenchments were built with a pile of cord wood that was laying in a yard near by. But the Federals had left for Strawberry Plains, where they burned the railroad bridge, and then started back for Yankee land. In the afternoon, a j-trong body of Confederate cavalry, which had been sent for, reached Knoxville, and after a short rest followed in the track of the Federals. They did not over- take them, but managed to press them elo: e enough so that they had to abandon their ar- tillery, and make their way back to Kentucky over the mountains, by difficult and danger- ous paths, where no troops would travel unless compelled by dire necessity COMmG HOME TO KNOZYILLE, In 1896, after a prolonged stay in the East, Mrs. Chavannes and myself returned to our home in East Tennessee. It was in the leafy month of June, when nature is at her best, and the contrast between the sight of one of the busiest streets of New York, and the fresh colors of the landscape, made us doubly susceptible to the beauty of the region we traversed on our return journey. Part of the country through which we tra- velled has the distinction of bein^ the highest farming region east of the Rocky mountains. Within a distance of perhaps two hundred miles, we successively crossed the James river, which empties in the Chesapeake bay, the Roanoke and the New River which flow east through North Carolina, the KanaTah which flows west to the Ohio river, and the Holston, the main spring of the Tennessee river, which runs south until below Chattanooga, where it is turned to the west by a high spur of the Cumberland mountains Leaving Wasliington in the middle of the 88 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. night, our first view of this picturesque region was at Koanoke, a thriving little city at the junction of the Shenandoah valley and of the Norfolk and Western railroads. From Roan- oke the land rises steadily, and the railroad is built between and around a series of hills called knobs in that section of the country, and which I believe are not found elsewhere. Those knobs are a succession of small, hills, perhaps three or four hundred feet in height, scattered over the land in perfect confusion, presenting to the eye the same uneven appear- ance as the surface of a basket of eggs. The scenery they made was exceedingly pleasant to look upon at that time of the year. No abrupt lines offended the eye, but a suc- cession of scenes small in extent, but all graceful, cheered the sight of the traveller with their ever changing curves, painted in many shades of green against the blue sky. As the cars wound in and out around these numerous hills, vistas of miniature valleys were passing before our eyes in quick succes- sion, enlivened by glimpses of farm houses usually set just beyond the gaps in the hills, and which, Surrounded by ancient shade trees, and framed in by fields and woods, formed a very attractive rural picture. COMING HOME TO KNOXVILLE. 89 Not only has the country a special charm of its own, but it is also true of the occupants of the car who have some marked character- istics, and differ from the citizens of other parts of the United States. I find my attention arrested by four young- men who had come in together, and seem to me true specimens of the best class of the inhabitants of that reg-ion. They are all tall, well built, and with well bred faces. One of them, whom they call Doctor, comes nearer than any of them to my idea of the Old Virginian stock than any specimen I have seen lately. A courtly demeanor even with his friends, a careless expression as if life did not have to be taken very seriously, a laugh- ing eye and an honest face, are his chief characteristics; and as he jokingly discus-es with his friends the somewhat exciting topic of the political situation, lie shows his true descent from the easy-going slave owners who were at one time the ruling power of that land. In another respect they all show the persisten- cy of inherited traits, for while divided in po- litics, they are all agreed as to their contempt for the '^nigger", and show more anxiety to maintain the political supremacy of the white man than to vote for silver or gold. 90 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. After pullinjj: and puffing for two or three hours, the locomotive taking us higher and higher above the sea, we finally reach the rich valley which forms the south western part of Virginia. We have left the knobs be- hind us, and find ourselves in a broad valley, rich and well cultivated, and as we rush along we see on each side the j^arallel chain of mountains that form the Alleghany range. We pass many thriving cities, and find our- selves once more surrounded by evidences of progress and prosperity. At one of the stations the cars are invaded by delegates to some Sunday school conven- tion, and it is evidently looked upon as a picnic, for women and children predominate. The seat opposite to us is taken possession of by a middle-aged gentleman, whose face is a perfect fac-simile of that of an old En- glish statesiTian of revolutionary times It is not the face of a reformer or an idealist, but it is the face of a man prone to judge and advise his fellow-men, and is marred in my eyes by the condescension which lurks in all his actions. I take him to be a preacher, and my opinion is strengthened by his success in getting rid of the care of his infant son. His wife not feeling well brought their two years COMING HOME TO KNOXVILLE. 1)1 old child for him to look after, but the task evidently being an unpleasant one, he soon manages to turn it over to a more humble, but possibly more useful member of the pai'ty. Another man, with black coat buttoned to the chin, and white neck tie, has the face and manners of a catholic anchorite, and seems out of place in a protestant pleasure party. About noon we reach Bristol, the twin city, built partly on Virginian and partly on Ten- nessee soil. The dividing line between the states runs througli the main street, and the city boasts of two mayors and two councils. Bristol is the highest station on the railroad, being nearly two thousand feet above the sea, and from there to Knoxville the fall is over one thousand feet. As we leave Bristol, there is a curve in the road, and we see br( adside to us the valley of East Tennessee, encased between two high ranges of mountains which frame it grandly all the way to Chattanooga. The valley widens as we reach Morristown, and we admire the broad fields and rich farms which present themselves to our eyes. But we have but little time to observe the country. The train makes but few stops, and speeds on at a rate that would do honor to the fastest train at the West. »2 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. At Mossy Creek, our last stop and thirty- three miles from Knoxville, I look at my watch and find that we are due in that city in thirty-five minutes, and expect that we will be a little behind time, but we thunder along- at such a rate that we soon reach a neighbor- hood with which I feel well acquainted, and though only five miles from the depot, we have yet ten minutes to arrive at our desti- nation. Soon the train slacks and we are no longer whisked around the curves with a force that makes you feel like holding on to your seat, and as we reach the city limits we fall in the prescribed speed, and glide in the de- pot just on time. A good horse and buggy are waiting for us, and soon takes us back to our home and fa- mily, and in a few days our long absence has become a thing of the pa^t, and we fall back naturally into our old life in our southern country home. AN OLD REPROBATE. During our late unpleasantness, in the fall of 1862, I spent some months in buying cattle in the mountains of East Tennessee, and made the acquaintance of William MacLeod, or Squire Mac as he was familiarly called, a na- tive of the upper parts of the state, who had drifted to Knoxville in search of a fortune. Although born in the south, Squire Mac was much given to trading, for which he was as well qualified as any Yankee from the East. He was glib of tongue, sharp at a trade, and with a keen eye for a chance bargain, and had left his native mountains to exercise his gifts in more busy haunts of civilization. But so far he had not met with any brilliant success, probably because of his roving dispo- sition and a fondness for mild forms of dis- sipation. He used to deal a little in cattle, and thus we were often thrown together, and I was induced by him to make the trip on which I met my old reprobate. In coming to Knoxville, Squire Mac had not brought all his possessions with him, but 94 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. still owned an nn sal able farm some ten miles south frpm Cumberland Gap. On this farm lived his brother, and in his care the Squire had placed his motherless little girl, and it was because he wanted to see his child that he persuaded me to take the trip with him. At that time he had not been on his place for several months, being afraid to return in that vicinity on account of personal enemies he had left behind. He was a Union maru, while most of his neighbors were strong Se- cessionists, and he was afraid that if he should fall in the hands of the men he had angered, but little quarter would be shown to him. To show that his fears were well founded, I may as well state here that later on, after Biirnside had entered East Tennessee, and Squire Mac had joined the Federal army, he visited his home at a time when that section was disputed ground between Burnside's and Longstreet's commands, and having fallen in the hands of the men he dreaded, when they left the place where he had been overtaken, his dead body was hanging to a tree. But at the time of our trip there wa? a little more respect for human life. Kirby Smith was in command in East Tennessee, and while civil authority had been entirely AN OLD REPROBATE. 95 superseded, martial law was enough respected to protect the life of peaceable citizens. Ne- vertheless Squire Mac had not been willing to venture alone in that locality, and knowing that I was a southern sympathizer, proposed that we should together visit h's home. He would see his child and attend to some bu- siness matters, and I would likely be able to buy some cattle in that neighborhood. T gladly consented, and two days of horse- back riding took us over the sixty odd miles of mountainous country we had to traverse to reach our destination. On the afternoon of the second day, near sunset, we reached the farm of Squire Mac's father-in-law, and the first building we saw on the place was a small still-house, a common sight at that time over the mountains of East Tennessee. As we neared the still-house, T noticed a man lying at full length by the side of the road. His hat had fallen off and rolled to one side, and his bald head was fully exposed to the rays of the setting sun. My first impres- sion was that the man was dead, but Squire Mac, with a passing glance of recognition remarked: "That's old Fullerton, an old drunkard, he is not dead, he is dead-drunk." I paid but little further attention to the 96 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. incident, for we were used to strange sights in those days, but I recollect a feeling of disgust passing over me when I realized the true condition of the raan. He had evidently fallen by the roadside; his head lay lower than his feet, his arms were extended and his white fringe of hair covered with mud; a complete picture of utter prostration and annihilation of self-respect. "An old reprobate," I thought within myself, "and going to the devil as fast as he can." The next day it was arranged that while Squire Mac attended to some private matters, I would go and look at some cattle I was in- formed were for sale in the neighborhood, and that we were to meet for supper at the Squire's father-in-law. I dispatched my business a little quicker than I expected, and it was yet early when I stepped on the porch at our host's, and was cordially welcomed by the ladies of the house and requested to take a. chair and make myself at home until the ar- rival of the gentlemen. Seated in a corner of the porch was an old man who was pre- sented to me as Mr. Fuller ton, and whom, to my great astonishment, I recognized as the drunkard of the preceding day. But he looked like another person, for he AN OLD REPROBATE. 97 was sober, and I found him a man of mild manners, modest behavior, and considerable information. Instead of the disgust of the preceding day, I found myself attracted tow- ard him. There was something refined in his appearance, in marked contrast with the usual deportment of the mountaineers, who are more noted for virile determination than for gent- leness of behavior ; and the pathetic look in his mild blue eyes had something appealing, and well calculated to disarm the harsh jud- gment I had passed upon him. We gradually got into conversation, and I learned there of some events in his life which somewhat explained his conduct, and taught me to be more charitable in my judgments of my fellow-men. After a few words about the weather and the crops, I happened to mention the road by which we had come the day before, when he remarked that I must have seen him as he lay by the road side. "I was drunk then," he said in a matter of fact voice, and just as if he had said "I am sick," "but I am sober now." "Yes," I answered, "and I thought you were a sorry sight; you do not look to-day like the same man." And with the rashness of youth 98 1:aST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. I gave him a short lecture on the evils of drinking. He heard patiently what I had to say, and when I got through simply remarked: "It is all true enough, what you have told me, but what is a man to do if he cannot keep from it? Ever since I lost my boys I got drunk at times, and I do believe it is all that kept me from going crazy. There are times when I must forget myself, or it seems to me I will lose my mind." That was a new idea to me, and I was cer- tainly not prepared with a satisfactory re- ply. Mr. Fullerton was so different from all other drunkards I had known that I was get- ting interested. "Are you all alone?" I asked. "Have you no wife or child to help you keep sober?" A look of deep dejection spread itself over Jus countenance, and something very much like a tear ehone in his eye. ''My wife did not live very long after our marriage," he answered. "I have been a wi- dower more than thirty years. We had two children, as fine boys as ever lived, but I saw them both die not two weeks apart." I had lost a darling little girl not many months before, and my heart went out toward the man who thus had been doubly afflicted. AN OLD REPROBATE. 99 "That was hard indeed, Mr. FuUerton." I replied. "T have lost a child lately and can sympathize with you. What was the matter with your boys that they died so near to- gether?" "Smallpox is what killed them," he answered. "Smallpox!" I exclaimed, well knowing the dread in which that disease is held by these mountaineers. ^'Smallpox! What a hard time you must have had while they were sick! Could you get any help? Would any of your neighbors come and see you?" "No, I was left all alone with them all the time, and no one, not even a doctor was al- lowed to come near us." My curiosity being aroused, I plied the old gentleman with questions, and here is the substance of what he told me. "This happened over twenty years ago," he said, "and we were living in the same place where I am now, but the country was not nearly as much settled, and we were comple- tely surrounded by the woods. There had been no smallpox in these parts, but we heard some talk of it over on the other side of the Gap, but nothing to create a scare, or even make us specially careful. "Well Bill, that was the oldest, took a 100 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. notion to visit some friends on the other side of the mountain, and a few days after he came back he began to complain, and finally had to take to his bed. We had no women folks staying with us at the time, a. kind of keeping house by ourselves, and John and I thought we could take care of him all right. But he got worse, and I 'lowed I better go to Tazewell and fetch a doctor to see him, and the doctor he called it smallpox as soon as he set his eyes upon him. "That scared us bad, you may be sure, and we knew well enough the neighbors would not come nigh us. And so it was, for the doctor he stopped as he ought to at the first house to warn the people, and the news spread as wild fire all over the country. ' So the neighbors they met and talked over what they had better do to keep it from spreading, and the upshot of it was that the next morning at break of day, Johnson cal- led me, and when I stepped out he was stand- ing at the edge of the woods, and he would not come to the house or let me come near him. He told me how the neighbors had decided that we must not leave our yard, and they would see to it that we lacked for no- thing. Every morning they would bring food AN OLD REPROBATE. 101 and medicines and leave them where he stood, but on no account was any of us to cross the fence, for they were going to set guards, who if we did would shoot us down like dogj. '^Well Bill got worse and John helped me take care of him, but he took sick himself and I had them both to take care of. Oh ! it was a dreadful time. Bill went out of his head, and John got scared for he thought they would certainly both die. And sure enough Bill he died first, and the neighbors would not come near and help me bury him, but they dug a grave near the fence, and brought a coffin and let it down into it, and I carried Bill down in my arms and let him down in the coffin and covered him. After that John got worse and at times was so violent I could hardly keep him in the bed. But he got weaker and weaker, and soon fol- lowed his brother, and I was left alone with my dead. Oh! it was awful I" And the old man's face worked and he co- vered it with his hands, and I felt a deep compassion for him in my heart as I realized the mental sufferings he must have endured. After a moment he continued: '^I had to bury John the same way as Bill, and then had to come back alone to my lonely 102 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. cabin, and it was two weeks before I was allowed to show myself among my neighbors." "That was cruel," I remarked, "for surely some other way could have been found to destroy the danger of infection." "No, it was not cruel," he replied. "They did the best they could for us and knew of no better way to keep the smallpox from spreading. And it did it too. There was no other person took it, but it drove me to drink. I used to take a dram once in a while, but never enough to get drunk. But I got so lonely and broken down that I took to drink- ing so as to forget my misery, and it has stuck to me ever since, and will probably hold me to the end." I did not have the heart to say any more about the evil habit of drinking, and it taught me a lesson, for ever since I have been more charitable in my judgments, and no longer apply the term of old reprobate to every man who succumbs to the influence of liquor. 1 WAR EPISODE. Early in the fall of 1863 the Confederates under Buckner evacuated Knoxville, and a few days after the Federals under Burnside made their entrance in the place, and held it till the end of the war. In November of the same year the Confederates returned un- der Longstreet, and driving Burnside into the city, besieged him during three weeks, when Bragg having been defeated at Missionary Ridge, Sherman was detailed from Grant's army and coming to Burnside's assistance, compelled Longstreet to raise the siege. However he did not go very far, but re- treated to Strawberry Plain*!, where occupying a strong position behind the river, he threat- ened Knoxville all winter. His troops made continual raids near the city, often carrying off prisoners and cattle which were thought safe within the Federal lines. We were then living on a farm four miles north of Knoxville, and very near the dispu- ted portion of the country. We were within the outer line of pickets, but surrounded by 104 EAST tennp:ssee sketches. camps, and subject to numerous visits from stragglers and camp followers, who usually came in search of food, and were not very scrupulous as to their means of obtaining it. We were known as southern sympathizers, and thus more liable to depredations than our neighbors who were mostly union people, and in self defense had to hide our slender stock of food, and use all kinds of stratagems to prevent discovery. We also had visits from the soldiers cam- ped around us, but their behavior was very different. They usually wanted some work done, such as washing or cooking, and were polite and willing to pay liberally for what they >A anted. JTor greater security we had sold most of the product of our farm, and were reduced to very plain living. My last remaining horse had been stolen by a party of stragglers, and our only domestic animal was a cow which could find a scanty living in the open fields, helped out with the refuse from our kitchen. We had some wheat and corn hidden among a pile of loose lumber, and some bacon stored under the lining of the roof, and with some help from the garden managed to have al- ways enough of the necessaries of life. A WAR EPISODE. 105 Some two months after the arrival of the Federals, reports beg-an to be circulated in our neighborhood that some union soldiers had been visiting several farms, and had carried away boxes of chewing tobacco that were stored on them, but it was not known if it was done under military authority, or if it was a case of unauthorized plundering. In the latter days of the Confederacy, when paper money was daily losing in value, chew- ing tobacco in boxes, being compact and easy to keep, became a favorite investment. I had bought quite an amount, and the fact was generally known, but the tobacco had never been brought to my farm, for I stored it in the city, and sometime before the ar- rival of the Federals, I had disposed of it for another investment that suited me better. Under those circumstances, I was not sur- prised to see one afternoon four mounted soldiers ride in my front yard where I was at work, and the leader introducing himself as Captain Gale, said he had been pent to search my house for tobacco, rebel flags and arms. In those days we did not ask such visitors for their warrants; the loaded guns in the hands of his soldiers were sufficient warrant 106 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. for an^'thirig he might choose to do, so treat- ing him politely, I answered that I had no tobacco, flags or arms. I judge that my manner satisfied him that I spoke the truth, for he seemed disappoint- ed, but after some hesitation he finally said that his orders were to search my house, so I piloted them, and they made a very super- ficial examination, which would certainly have failed to bring anything to light that I would have cared to keep hidden. But T had nothing of a contraband nature, unless a small Reddington pistol and a sword cane could be so considered. I could easily have concealed them, but did not do so, for I felt confident that there could be no objection to my keep- ing them. But I soon found that the cane had attrac- ted the attention of Captain Gale, and that he meant to carry it off with him. It was quite a neat article, which I had bought while I was travelling in Europe, and on my return had given it to an older brother, who had died a few years later when the cane came back in my possession; and for these reasons I valued it highly. Captain Gale looked at it appreciatively, and probably equally prompted by the desire A WAR EPISODE. 107 to possess it and to punish me for his disap- pointment at finding no tobacco in my house, finally said that I was not to be trusted with such a weapon, and that he would carry it away. T first tried to argue with him that there could be no special danger incurred to the Union by my retaining possession of my cane, and that failing represented to him why I so highly valued it, but finding that what I said had no effect upon him and that he was bound to take away my cane, I changed my tune and told him that he had better clearly understand that I did not propose to let him retain possession of it, and that if he carried it off he would get himself into trouble. His only answer was a derisive laugh, and an intimation that as T was a rebel he could do with my property i)retty much as he pleased, and he and his men mounted their horses and rode away. I had in Knoxville a friend on whose as- sistance I could rely, and who had sufficient infiuence to secure attention from the Federal authorities. I wrote to him a succint account of the whole affair, and asked him to find out if Captain Gale had acted upon authority, or if he was doing business on his own ac- 108 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. count, and also try and ascertain if we rebels, who remained peaceably at home, had any rights left that Federal soldiers were bound to respect. This letter had the desired effect. My friend went to the officer in command in Knoxville, and gave him my letter to read, vouching for my character and reliability. It seems that reports of Captain Gale's depredations at other farms had already reached him, but he had not been able to ascertain his name or to what regiment he belonged. As my let- ter furnished the needed information, he gave orders at once to the Provost Marshall to have him arrested and held for trial. In pursuance of this order, my friend rode up to my house the next day, a little before sun down, in company of an officer whom he introduced as the Captain of the military police of Knoxville, and requested me to go with them and identify the accused officer. As I had no horse, I got up behind my friend, and we rode to the camp where I knew Cap- tain Gale was to be found. It was a camp of Tennessee cavalry, made up of men who had been Union refugees, and had returned home when the Federals took possession of East Tennessee: a class of men who were A WAR EPISODE. IQO naturally very bitter and abusive against the rebels,' and prone if they thought themselves insulted, to take their vengeance into their own hands. It was nearly dusk when we reached the camp, which being in a piece of woodland bordering on the creek, was already in semi- obscurity. The men were all busy building their camp fires and feeding their horses. We inquired after Captain Gale and found him without diflBculty. When he presented himself, the Police Captain asked me if that was the man who had visited my house the day before, and upon my affirmative answer turned and said to him: "Captain Gale, con- sider yourself under arrest and report to the Provost Marshall office in Knoxville to-mor- row morning at nine o'clock". At first -Captain Gale looked dazed, as if he did not clearly understand what had hap- pened to him, but when he realized that I had reported him, and that he had been put under arrest^ his rage against me knew no bounds. That he, a Federal officer, should be arrested upon the denunciation of a rebel, was something v^ hich passed his comprehen- sion. But his anger took an unexpected and prac- 110 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. tical form which might have resulted disas- trously for me. He launched at once and effectually in a passionate appeal to the sol- diers around him, denouncing me and urging them to revenge. At the sound of his loud and excited voice, soldiers came running toward us from all parts of the camp, and I soon found myself the center of a mob of armed men, with Captain Gale pointing at me and using all the power of his eloquence to arouse them to acts of violence. My friend and myself soon took in 'the unexpected danger of the situation, and that my only chance of safety lay in flight. Hap- pily for us the Police officer stood between us and Captain Gale, and as the horses had just been fed none of the men were mounted; nor had the soldiers yet had time to clearly understand the drift of the situation, and could at first only make out that an alterca- tion was going on. Besides, the Police officer who was trying to stop the torrent of words which was issuing from Captain Gale's lips, was in full uniform, which always commands the respect of the soldiers. Taking advantage of a moment when the attention of the fast increasing crowd was directed toward the Police officer by his A WAR EPISODE. m efforts to stop the tumult, my friend slowly and cautiously backed his horse free from the gathering throng, and when clear of the crowd turned him quickly around, and put him at a sharp gallop which very soon carried us out of sight and out of the camp. About a thousand yards off were some dense pine thickets with which I was well acquain- ted, and once there, thanking my friend and telling him I felt safe in the darkness and knew I could elude all pursuit, I dismounted and safely made my t. ay home. My friend returned to the camp, and found that during his absence things had come to a crisis. Captain Gale, as soon as he found that 1 was gone, had wanted to start with his men in pursuit, but the Police officer, drawing his pistol, had threatened to shoot him down if he moved a step. Finding him- self overmatched, and the soldiers unwilling to support him against one in authorit3^ he had submitted and promised to remain in camp that night, and report in Knoxville the next morning. The next day, when he reported himself, he was held for trial, and 1 was summoned as a witness, but there was some delay, and Longstreet's advance followed by the siege 112 EAST TENNESSEE SKETCHES. of Knoxville, and battles and important mi- litary movements around the city, threw all such things in the back ground, and so far as I know he never was tried, nor did I ever hear what became of him. But the cane was handed to my friend by the Police officer who had taken possession of it the night of the arrest, and it finally came back into my hands, and I still keep it, not only for the memories with which it was originally connected, but as a memento of one of the numerous episodes of the war. 570 '^Z i^. r -^^ oVJ^y.^ .^ V^ A ^ ' o « c . 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