THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN en a K =: > 5 c W ■J h: CQ 'I r>. 3 Z ^ h S O 'a THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN A HANDBOOK OF INFORMATION AND INSTRUCTION FOR THE AMATEUR BY LOUISE SHELTON ILLUSTRATED SECOND EDITION REVISED AND ENLARGED CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS NEW YORK:::::::::::::::::MCMVII LISRARY of CONGRESS Two Cooles Recetved (WAV 10 i9or •V Copyngtrt Eatry CLASS (? 4 XXc'.ni' Copyright, 1906, 1907, by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS TROW DIRECTORY PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY NEW YORK TO THE MEMORY OF MY LITTLE SPANIEL "IDOL" FOR TWELVE YEARS MY SHADOW IN MY GARDEN INTRODUCTORY These pages are for the most part a condensed record of flower-time — just a little garden wisdom, which may guide others who, unaided by an "experienced man," do give love- labor to the "green things growing." They are especially prepared for those who have small gardens where space must be economized in order to welcome the variety of posies that are the heart's desire. After some short directions on Plans, Planting, and Soil, the book is arranged in the order of months, beginning with September, for reasons explained later, and giving under each month a few introductory suggestions and a list of its flowering plants, together with practical hints for garden work during that month. After November winter intervenes, and the record begins again with March. After a little study it should not be too difficult, I hope, for any one to select suitable plants and arrange them in such a way as to make even a small garden show well during the whole season of flowers. If the eye is trained in the harmony of colors, no fairer castle in the air can be imagined than a garden in its proper color- blending, abloom in every section all through the summer. The setting of plants with regard to height as well as to color adds to the intricacies of this fascinating scheming, which will bring a summer morning into the dreariest of winter days — the time for sketching plans for outdoor planting. INTRODUCTORY Following the monthly record there is added some condensed information about Wild Gardens, Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Seeds, and various important subjects relating to the culture of summer flowers. In naming flowers I must needs leave unnamed a host of comely plants that help to fill the catalogues. My choice is of those I have tried and found best suited for making a garden on a small scale show well. L. S. MORRISTOWN, N. J. Tiii CONTENTS GARDEN TERMS I. Plans II. Planting . III. Soil . PART ONE PREPARATIONS PAQB 2 3 7 11 PART TWO THE GARDEN RECORD IV. September V. October . VI. November VII. March VIII. April IX. May . X. June . XL July . XII. August MIDWINTER 15 23 27 33 37 41 47 53 59 CONTENTS PART THREE GENERAL INFORMATION PAGE XIII. The Wild Garden 65 XIV. The Water Garden 70 XV. Shrubs 72 XVI. Vines 75 XVII. Roses 76 XVIII. The Seed-Bed 81 XIX. How TO Make a Hot-Bed and a Cold-Frame . 84 XX. Seeds op Hardy Plants 86 XXI. Seeds op Annuals 88 XXII. Flowers for Special Places 90 XXIII. Garden Pests and Remedies 92 XXIV. Some Notes on Popular Plants . . . .97 XXV. DoNT's 106 XXVI. Bird-Houses in the Garden 109 Chart op Garden, 40 x 30 Feet, to Bloom from May 20 until Late September, with Remarks, Cost op Plants, etc 110 INDEX OF ENGLISH AND LATIN NAMES OF THE GARDEN FLOWERS Ill ILLUSTRATIONS Nothing but Flowers Frontispiece FACING PAGE An Attractive Garden Plan 16 A Box-Edged Garden 34 An Ideal Design 60 A Grass-Path Garden, with Rose-Bower in the Centre 78 A Grass-Path Garden, with a Pergola on Three Sides 100 PART ONE PREPARATIONS GARDEN TERMS Hardy Perennials (h. p.). — Plants that withstand the winter in the ground, and are long-lived. They increase in root, and divided roots make new plants. Plants may be also raised from seeds, and will bloom the following season, but rarely sooner. Some h. p. seeds may take six months to germinate. Such seeds soaked in water for twenty-four hours and then planted will germinate soon after. Seeds may be sown under glass any time in early spring or out of doors after April 10th. Hardy Biennials (h. b.) may be left in the ground during the winter. They are sown one year, bloom the next year, and die. They should have a light winter protection. The seeds are sown under glass or out of doors in April. Half Hardy Perennials (h. h. p.) and Half Hardy Biennials (h. h. b.) . — They require heavier winter covering, and the seeds are generally started under glass, but can also be started in open ground after May 15th. Tender Perennials and Tender Biennials (t. p. and t. b.) require more care in starting them. They are sown under glass and are not trans- planted to open ground until after May 15th. Hardy Annuals (h. a.). — They can be sown in open ground, some in April, some in May, or in frames in March. They last through certain months of summer and then die. They are perpetuated by their seeds. Tender Annuals {t. a.) require more care. Seeds must be sown under glass. Seedlings must be protected from much sun and cold ; they are transplanted from boxes to pots, and set out after May 25th. Halj Hardy Anmials (h. h. a.). — ^Treat as tender annuals, but these can be sown out of doors by June 1st. To continue the stock, cuttings are sometimes made of both hardy and annual plants. Mulching plants means to place a layer of grass-cuttings or old leaves, etc., on top of the soil about the plant to keep the ground from drying out. THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN PART ONE— PREPARATIONS I PLANS Suggestions to a Beginner In laying out a garden, begin with a definite plan in drawing. If your aspirations lead you to design a garden too extensive for one year of the garden's allowance, be satisfied with remember- ing that other years are to follow, and confine the first season's efforts to the planting of the central part of your plan, and grad- ually work from within outward. Boundary Line. — Every garden needs a definite boundary line, for the place should be the enclosed retreat of the flower- lover — a place set apart from the rest of the world. The best border is of shrubbery, unless it may be a vine-covered wall. The Large Garden. — In a large garden all the favorite flowers and many of the shrubs of spring and summer can have their place. The Small Garden. — In a small garden, where a bright display is desired throughout summertime, most of May's hardy plants, as well as some of summer's large spreading plants, should be omitted, and even June's Pseonies, on account of their size, should be planted elsewhere; they are too beautiful to ignore entirely. S THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN Shrub Bloom for May's Small Garden. — If, for lack of space, May's earliest posies are to be omitted from the main garden- plot, it may still be possible to encompass it with May-blooming shrubs, and to have the smaller May-blooming fruit trees and other dwarf blossoming trees outside, peeping here and there over the shrubbery, loading the air with their fragrance, and suggest- ing a veritable garden in the air. GARDEN DIMENSIONS FOR FORMAL PLANS In order to be more definite, I would suggest that a small garden might measure possibly about 25 x 30 feet, wherein no bed is wider than six feet and the shrub border is not included; instead, a low vine-cov- ered wire fence {5\ feet) may be the boundary line, but a cheaper and more effective plan is to set cedar posts ten feet apart and six feet above ground. At- tach drooping chains or wire between the posts and train Roses, Clematis paniculata, or other vines up the posts and across. The first bloom in this garden is in late May, when Blue Salvia, Columbine, Pyre- thrums, Ranunculus, a few German Irises, Lupine, Clove Pinks, Garden Heliotrope, and Pansies come forth in strong contrasts, and help to give the rich coloring to June's garden; the choice of flowers after May being left to the fancy of the gardener. If possible, add three feet to the width of the out- side beds to give room at the back for a few more of such spreading plants as Irises, and for July red 31 X 36 ft. Turk's-cap Lily and Hollyhocks, which would be crowded in the smaller garden with the plants al- ready named and the many more to be chosen; or else 4 25 X 30 ft. PLANS add six feet to the outside border of the first plan, to .^ ^^ allow for a row of shrubs, if preferred, instead of vines 37 X 43 ft. . ^ as a boundary line. None of these dimensions yet named are large enough to contain plants like Roses, Dahlias, Sweet Peas, Pseonies, Heliopsis, Golden Glow, Clematis Davidiana, Helianthus, and if an- nuals are desired it is best also to omit Monarda, Bleeding Heart, Sweet Rocket, Anemone Japonica, hardy fall Chrysanthemums, and to include but few Irises. They would only occupy the space that can be better filled by certain annuals, which are showier and longer flowering. A garden of medium size might measure, for in- stance, 50 X 60 feet, which would give space enough 50 X 60 ft. for a shrub border and almost all the popular plants except the earhest May bloomers, Roses, Sweet Peas, and would include a few Dahlias. Add ten feet, or more, each way to these last dimen- sions, and in this garden there would be room for 70 X 80 ft. Roses and Dahlias, the Sweet Pea treUis, and all other old-fashioned favorites blooming from May 1st till frost. The number and variety of annuals to be grown depend upon the space left for them after the perennials are placed. Except Tulips and Hyacinths, the early hardy bulbs, Daffo- dils, etc., and Lilies-of-the-Valley are always at their best away from the garden, preferably in the grass, and where their tops need not be cut down until six weeks after flowering. They blossom early under leafless trees, and do not require much sun. The Plan in Brief. — If the space is not large, I repeat that the main garden should be reserved for the succession of bloom that begins the last week in May and ends with the frost, omitting 5 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN some of the too rampant growers of summertime. It should be designed to give the most effective coloring possible in harmo- nious blending throughout the season, and to give bloom in all parts of the garden at all times.* It may be several years before satisfactory results are obtained. WALKS In some gardens the beds are laid out in well-kept grass, so that the walks are over the green sward; otherwise, pebble paths are made, edged with low Box or Privet, or a narrow border of raised sod. The pebble paths should have a bottom of cracked stones, broken shells, or coal cinders. Few weeds will settle in such a walk. PLANS FOR IMPROVING A SMALL YARD In some places where there is not space enough for even a little formal garden, the boundary lines of the property can be softened by shrubbery which will be a congenial background to broad border-beds of hardy plants, interspersed with annuals. Except in the formal garden, the border line of any long flower- or shrub-bed laid out over the turf should be made in curves rather than in a straight line through the grass. The house can be surrounded with shrubs and plants and covered with vines. (See chapters on Vines and Shrubs.) There will be some path, however short, that can be bordered with flower-beds, while all necessary but unsightly objects can be concealed by vines and tall growths of various kinds. If much is to be expected of a garden, it is very important to have a water hydrant near by. * Consult garden diagram at the end of the book. II PLANTING WHAT TO PLANT For a wide bed. — In a broad bed (over twelve feet wide) bordering the garden, plant at the back Clematis and Rose vines or else shrubs three feet or more apart — according to their size — and in front of them, groups or lines of the taller hardy plants — such as Golden Glow, Hollyhocks, Miniature Sunflowers, Physostegia, etc. Then plant the next in height, such as clumps of Achillea Pearl, Late Phlox, Pyrethrum ulig. Delphinium, Foxglove, Oriental Poppies, Day Lilies, Irises, Lupine, Yucca, Veronica, Anemone Japonica, Coreopsis, old- fashioned Valerian, Hyacinthus candicans, etc. Lower plants to be set nearer the front are: Lilies, Platycodon Anthemis, Campanulas, Gaillardia, Sweet William, Early Phlox, Shasta Daisy, June Pyrethrum, Pentstemon, Lychnis, and others of about the same height. The little annuals, such as Portulaca, Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, Torenia, Ageratum, Stock, Vinca, Lobelia, Phlox Drummondi, Purple Everlastings, and the Pinks, will make a gay finish to the front edge of the border. Remember that each month of summer should find an array of color throughout the garden, and not on one side in June, and on the other side in July. Leave ample room among the hardy plants for the host of lovely annuals. Place the plants close enough to allow the foUage to shade the ground space about them, which will prevent the soil from drying out too much. 7 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN In Very Small Gardens. — Omit from the beds plants as large or as spreading as hardy Chrysanthemums, Paeonies, hardy Asters, Anemone Japonica, Cannas, Monardas, Cosmos, Sunflowers, Roses (except climbers), Dahlias, Helianthus (h. p.), Bocconia, Sweet Rocket, Bleeding Heart, Sweet Peas, Clematis Davidiana, Hibiscus, Heliopsis, Scabiosa Caucasica. Plant more of the hardy plants for late May, June, and early July than for later months, because in hmited space the annuals will furnish the most bloom for mid and late summer till frost. WHEN TO PLANT At any time when frost is not in the ground the work of laying out a garden into paths and beds can be done. In the Autumn. — A new garden may be planted in late March, April, or even May, but the results obtained for the first summer are far more satisfactory when the beds are prepared in autumn, when also at least May's and June's hardy flowers had better be planted. The more work that is accomplished in autumn the more time will there be in spring for sowing and rearing the annuals, and for all the other pleasant labor which makes spring the busiest season in the garden. In autumn, finish planting most things, except late bulbs, by October 15th, so that the roots may be well estabhshed before frost. Plants set out in autumn must be especially well protected by leaves and brush for the following winter. In the Sprmg.—li a garden is to be made in spring, do not plant the hardy flowers for May and June unless it can be done by April 25th, for otherwise some will not bloom that season. Their places can be given to annuals, and the hardys planted the next autumn. Any time before May 15th the later summer hardy plants 8 PLANTING may be set out, and then prepare to fill the spaces with Gladi- oli, Dahhas, Begonias, and the brightest of the annuals that may be put out as late as June 15th. Many annuals can be bought in small plants by the dozen if you have not started them earlier from seeds. The time for sowing these seeds is explained in Part Three of this book. Early spring is the season for planting Anemone Japonica (in May, when they first appear), hardy Chrysanthemums, fall Tritoma, Althaea, Yucca, and Magnolias, all of which are apt to die the winter succeeding autumn planting. HOW TO PLANT In moving plants do not allow the roots to lie exposed to the hot sun or to the cold. Cut off bruised roots. Always put a good bed of manure, stamped down and covered by four inches of earth, under each hardy plant set out. In setting a plant do not double up the roots, but spread them out and press some earth gently about them; then fill the hole with water, let it absorb, add the rest of the earth, water again, but don't depend on soil that is damp from the rain. If plants arrive in a wilted condition, soak them in tepid water for an hour at least. If roots are matted and caked from being pot-bound, loosen the hardened soil by crushing it with the fingers. Keep new plants well watered, especially if the season is dry. Plant in groups of several of one kind, if the plant is not very spreading; the number of plants in a group depends upon the size of the plant and the size of the garden. If there is room, have masses of each color. Plant white and yellow on every side for each period of the flowering season, and place blue or dark red flowers next to white or pale yellow. This arrangement not only adds to the THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN garden's brightness, but makes the more sombre hues show better. Plant with a view to having a well-balanced bloom in all parts of the garden continuously. DATES OF PLANTING DEPENDENT ON CLIMATE The dates mentioned in this book apply to gardens within sixty miles of New York City. Wherever winters are more severe and set in earlier, the fall planting should begin from one to three weeks earlier, depending on the climate, and in these colder places the spring work is somewhat deferred, and the spring bloom begins later. In very cold localities, and where the ground is stiff and damp and cold, it is often best to prepare the ground in autumn, and to plant as early as possible in spring. The September page of "Practical Hints for Work" will give the beginner still further instruction in planting. SELECTION OF FLOWERS FOR A SMALL GARDEN For a garden not large enough to contain all the flowers listed under each month select at least those marked with itahcs, they being the most effective ones, as well as the longest in bloom, and add as many more as possible. THE NAMES OF THE FLOWERS In the flower-lists to follow the most familiar names are used, whether scientific or common. 10 Ill SOIL Better begin a garden with one flower-bed properly made than to attempt it with a larger garden in poor soil. Manure in sandy soil is about as wasteful as burying coins. The next year there is nothing left but the memory of the cost of the fertilizer; therefore if the soil is poor a bed for hardy plants should be made as follows: Remove the soil and stones to the depth of from eighteen inches to two feet. If the ground is very sandy, spread a thin layer of packed ashes over the bottom, or preferably two inches of light clay ; then put in several inches of good soil and broken sod, then several inches of well-rotted manure, more soil, another layer of manure, and finish it off with a top-dressing of fine rich soil. The bottom layer must not exceed two inches. If the natural soil is clay, mix with it one-fourth part of sand before using it in layers with the manure, and omit the ashes at the bottom. If the natural soil is sandy, some of it may be used by mixing one part of it with three parts of clay before adding the manure and some rich soil. If the natural soil is good loam, dig it out just the same, in order to remove all stones and to intermix the manure. A bed for annuals alone need not be enriched for more than one foot in depth. Drain wet land where a garden is to be made. Occasionally in early spring or autumn sprinkle air-slaked lime around but not on top of the plants. Lime not only sweetens soil, but helps to rid it of insect pests. 11 PART TWO THE GARDEN RECORD MY GARDEN A garden is a lovesome thing, God wot! Rose plot. Fringed pool, Ferned grot — The veriest school of peace; and yet the fool Contends that God is not — Not God! in gardens! when the eve is cool? Nay, but I have a sign; 'Tis very sure God walks in mine. Thomas Edward Brown. PART TWO— THE GARDEN RECORD IV SEPTEMBER If you ask why I begin this record of the flower seasons at the end of summer, I will tell you that this is the month of spring- hopes in the gardener's dreamland, the time to plan for the next far away birth-time of flowers, when gardens burst forth in blos- som and perfume after the long, deep sleep. This is also resting-time in the harvest sunsliine, a breathing space when the summer's work is done and we revel in the fruits of our labor. The birds, too, no longer toil, but feast and play and murmur in the tree-tops. The bolder ones — Goldfinch, singing on wing his joyous melody of content, and Ruby- Throat Hummingbird — fearlessly invade this domain, revelling in the nectar of every flower, and vying with bumblebees and butterflies in their happy right to everything. It is mid-September before we need cease our all-day idling in the garden. Practical Hints for Work planting and transplanting September 15th. After the fifteenth there is work to be done in preparation for another summer. In an established garden but little can be accomplished within the crowded borders until after a killing frost, but in new beds planting is a part of the programme in gardendom until November 1st. From now until October 15th most of the hardy plants may be moved; after October 15th few people care to risk moving 15 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN anything but shrubs and trees and summer-flowering Lily bulbs. The earlier it is done the better, in order that the roots may become well established before frost. Hardy perennials and biennials may also be planted in early spring if necessary. SPECIAL ADVICE ABOUT CERTAIN PLANTS For safety there are a few rules to be remembered: never move in autumn hardy Chrysanthemums, Anemone Japonica, Yuccas, late Tritomas, Magnolias, and Althaeas; wait till April. The young plants of Hollyhocks, Foxglove, Hardy Gail- lardia, Sweet William, and Clove Pinks should be transplanted by September 20th, otherwise it is unwise to disturb them until early spring; even when older they are not always safely moved much after this date, especially where winters are severe. In a much-exposed garden, if a cold-frame is available, winter under glass those plants just named above, when they have been started in the seed-bed the past spring or summer. Cam- panula, Pansies, and Snapdragon, besides, generally require this sort of protection. After November 1st spread about some fine manure, not quite covering them, and give them a light litter of leaves; by December 10th fasten down the glass frame. In weather when the temperature is over 35 degrees above zero, admit some fresh air in daytime. PLANT MAY AND EARLY JUNE BLOOMERS To obtain plentiful blossoms the first season, Oriental Poppies and other early bloomers should be moved, if possible, by the fifteenth of September. Paeonies require, like Roses, the richest, deep soil beneath them, and must be covered by soil only three inches above the crown. They give but one or two flowers the first year after 16 SEPTEMBER being moved. Manure now all old Paeonies, and divide large clumps every six or seven years. GENERAL WORK Gather what is left in summer seed-pods if you wish to avoid buying seeds. Remove dead stalks. Stake up late-blooming plants. Transplant Pansies. Sow grass seed where grass is needed. Sow Silene, Bluets and Larkspur seeds in open ground in early September. Also sow in the open ground annual Poppy seeds and Forget-me-nots (or sow the latter in August) for another year. Both require some moisture. Poppies need sun, Forget-me- nots need partial shade. The earliest blooming spring bulbs are set out by September 15th, as explained on a later Sep- tember page. The Flowers of September FIRST FLOWERING IN SEPTEMBER AVERAGE HEIGHT 5 ft. Vine 2 ft. September 1st. Pyrethrum ulig inosum . Late Aster (annual) . . Late Phlox Clematis paniculata . . . Roses, ever-blooming. . September 15th. Hardy Asters 2-5 ft. Helianthus Max, etc 5 Delphinium (late bloom) 3 Anemone Japonica (or earlier) 2 Cosmos (Sept. 25 or later) 6 " COLOR white various white various yellow various BLOOM HARDINESS 4 wks. 4 " 4 " 4 " 4 " till frost white, pink white, pink, red h.p. h. a. h.p. h.p. t. p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h. a. 17 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTHS •fGypsophila, fVeronica, fCardinal Flower, Purple Heli- chrysum, -j-Monarda, fHyacinthus, fPhysostegia, fClematis Davidiana, Scabiosa, Lobelia, early Cosmos, Nicotiana, Portu- laca, Sweet Alyssum, Ageratum, Helenium, Stokesia, Larkspur, Calliopsis, Golden Glow, Arctotis, Verbena, Salpiglossis, annual Gaillardia, hardy Gaillardia, Stock, Zinnia, Marigold, annual Chrysanthemum, Petunia, Geranium, Achillea Pearl, Nastur- tium, Dianthus, Snapdragon, Coreopsis, Hunnemannia, Canna, Celosia, f Lilies, Salvia, Sunflower, Calendula, fLiatris, Begonia, dwarf Convolvulus, Lavatera, Toreuia, Aconitum Nap, Didiscus. FRAGRANCE September 5th. It is a month since some of these blossoms first came into bloom. Most have been flowering even longer, and linger on as if loath to leave an earth so fair. If the season is not too dry, the ripeness of summer gives the fulness of color and vigor to the heavy wealth of flowers nodding now to right and to left as we walk along the garden paths. In the upper part of my terraced garden — at twilight and evening especially — the air even beyond the garden limits is filled with odors of Box and LiUes, mingled with Phlox and fragrant Nicotiana afiinis. Down in the lower garden, Stock, Petunia, Phlox, and Clematis paniculata weight the air with fragrance, till I wonder whether the upper or the lower terrace holds the more intoxicating per- fumes. Only the bee could tell, for by them is he allured. COLOR The color scheme is too extensive a subject for this little volume, and but one late summer garden-bed can be described t Die early in September. 18 SEPTEMBER by way of suggestion : A luxuriant curtain of Clematis paniculata clambering high over a ten-foot fence gives a beautiful milky background to a line of alternate groups of crimson plume Celosias, tall pink Hibiscus Moscheutos, and pink Physostegias, the last two offering inviting drinking cups to the honey-sippers. In front of them is a long row of golden Zinnias, before which grows a maze of many colored Asters and Sweet Scabiosas, while the border-front is banded with the little bright-hued Portulacas that seem to catch all the light and color afloat in the air where- with to sparkle. Earlier this bed (ten feet wide) contained the bloom of Lilium candidum and Campanulas. To quote another's suggestion: "A progression of color in a mixed border might begin with strong blues, light and dark, grouped with white and pale yellow, passing on to pink, then to rose color, crimson, and the strongest scarlet, leading to orange and bright yellow. A paler yellow followed by white would distantly connect the warm colors with the lilacs and purples, and a colder white would combine them pleasantly with low-growing plants with cool- colored leaves." Still another good suggestion for a larger garden is to assign certain colors to different parts of the beds throughout the flowering season. For instance, keep one or more sections for innk, beginning with May's pink Phlox, pink Pyrethrum, and pink Columbine, June's pink Foxglove, pink Sweet William, etc., and so on till October. It would be almost impossible for a beginner to lay out a garden with an idea of having this color effect at first. He must first become acquainted with the habits and peculiarities of his flowers. 19 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN Bulbs Planted in September LILIES Lilium candidum, the earliest summer (June) tall Lily, should be planted as near September 10th as possible, because the bulbs, which increase rapidly, make an autumn growth. These lilies require full sun. Other Lilies are planted about October 25th, or in early spring. Most Lilies need a light, rich, deep, well drained soil. They do their best where there is some moisture. Lihum speciosum rubrum should grow in partial shade; the others must be only somewhat sun-protected by the low foliage of surrounding plants, or mulched with moss, old manure, or leaves, so that the ground will not dry out about them. In planting, it is best to set the Lily bulb in a handful of sand. Manure must not come in contact with bulbs. Lilium Canadense, L. superbum, and L. tigrinum will grow almost anywhere. Plant Lilies in groups of three or six or more, or in a row, about ten inches apart, and set in holes from six to eight inches deep, depending on their size. When Lilies need to be separated it should be done after the stalks have withered. EARLY SPRING BULBS Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, Scillas, Crocuses, Narcissi, or Daffodils, and Jonquils do their best growing in the grass or wild garden in partial shade, in rich, deep, stiff, natural soil. Daffodils thrive also in the full sun and near water. Plant spring bulbs by September 15th. Bulbs of a kind must be set at regular depths to come up evenly. 20 SEPTEMBER Set Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops three inches apart; Crocuses in holes three inches deep, Scillas and Snowdrops four inches deep. Their tops must not be cut off for at least three weeks after bloom ceases — not until leaves turn yellow. Narcissi, or Daffodils and Jonquils in grass must grow only where the grass can be left undisturbed by the scythe until June 25th. Daffodils are planted six or seven inches deep. Jonquils five inches deep, and ten inches apart. Tulips and Hyacinths, following Daffodils in the spring procession, are not planted until October. For Lilies-of-the- Valley, see Practical Hints for October and June. All bulbs will increase in number if their tops are left undis- turbed until they are yellow, when they are ripened. Table for Bulb-Plantinq Lilies, three times depth of bulb (large bulbs) 7-8 inches deep. 10 inches apart. Lilies (small bulbs) 6 " " 10 Daffodils 7 " " 10 Hyacinths 7 " " 5 " " TuHps 6 " " 5 " " Jonquils 5 " " 6 " " Chionodoxas 5 " " 6 " " Crocuses 3 " " 3 " " Scillas 4 " " 3 " " Snowdrops 4 " " 3 " " Anemones 3 " " 6 " " 21 It was a day that sent into the heart A summer feeling; even the insect swarms From their dark nooks and coverts issued forth. To sport thro' one day of existence more; The soUtary primrose on the bank Seem'd as though now it had no cause to mourn Its bleak autumnal birth, while it partook The universal blessing. South EY. OCTOBER Summer is at rest by the first of this month, and though some of its color lingers still, it is a matter of only a few days before the change which heralds winter's approach will wipe out every plant but Marigolds and hardy Chrysanthemums. Providing the season has not been too dry, the September flowers are with us still, and even August loans some garden favorites. October's airy, dainty "Daisies," the pink, white, and red Cosmos, are now waving their glory in the face of the coming frost, and the wax-like Anemone Japonica, far too beautiful to meet an early death, is another precious blossom gathered hurriedly for the flower-bowls indoors. By October 10th the first breath of King Frost has swept the garden and taken from it all the color and fragrance that had lingered on so long. Nothing remains there; but outside, the Garden of Trees, in robes of gold and crimson, will give us a color feast for yet awhile. There are rare warm days ahead, although few, and a period at the end of the month when the hardy Chrysanthemums blos- som forth in autumn tints to thrive gayly even with snowflakes on their sturdy petals, but with them ends this month of change, closing the flower season. Practical Hints for Work ^ . , , . tender plants October 1st. Take into the house all tender plants. Geraniums, etc., that are to be saved from the frost for house culture. Geraniums 23 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN should be hung, free from soil, in a moderate temperature until spring, when they are cut back and planted again. Before hard frost, also, the tuberous Begonias should be lifted, dried, and stored in the cellar in a box of coal ashes or sand, and out of danger from the frost. HARDY PLANTS Dig up and divide the roots of plants that are too large; reset them in fresh soil and add manure. This is necessary every three or four years in order to produce better flowers; finish transplanting by October 15th, if possible. Shrubs are the exception, as they can be moved after the leaves begin to fall (or in early spring). BULBS Tulips and Hyacinths should be planted between the first and the fifteenth. If the flower-beds where they are to go have been occupied all summer, well-rotted cow manure should be dug in a foot deep, with care not to disturb the roots of hardy plants or to let manure come in contact with the bulbs. These bulbs require light, rich soil, and sun. The earth should not be pressed too closely over them. Bulbs of a kind must be set at regular depths, or else they will come up un- evenly. Set them five inches apart. Tulips in six inch holes. Hyacinths in seven inch holes. Many Tulips can be left in the ground, preferably in the grass near the Daffodils, and if undisturbed they will increase where the soil is favorable to them. Tops must not be cut down or bulbs moved until leaves begin to fade. October 15th. general work After the killing frost the garden must be clean swept. Take up bulbs of Dahlias, Gladioli, and Cannas, and as 24 OCTOBER soon as they are dry place them in boxes or barrels in a moderate, even temperature. Label unmarked plants on deep-driven stakes. Burn the light chaff, and keep the stalks of taller plants for covering the beds in late November. Gather the remaining seeds for keepsakes, to renew the garden favorites. If not already done, dig manure in around the plants that make an early start — Pseonies, Phlox, Iris, Bleeding Heart, Columbine, Valerian, Hollyhocks, etc. Plant LiHes-of-the- Valley in deep, stiff, rich soil, each pip one inch apart and three inches deep. Plant bulbs of Lilium speciosum, L. auratum, etc., now or about March 25th. The Flowers of October first flowering in october AVERAGE HARDI- HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM NESS Cosmos (sometimes earlier) . 5 ft. red, wh.,pk. till frost h. a. Aconitum Fischeri " " , 2 " blue " " h. p. Tritoma Uvaria grand 3 " red " " h. h. p. Chrysanthemum, late Oct. or Nov. 1st 2 " various " " h. p. BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTHS Asters, Stock, Petunia, Salvia, Dahlia, annual Sunflower, Helichrysum, Zinnia, Anemone Japonica, Scabiosa, Arctotis, Nicotiana, Gaillardias, Dianthus, Nasturtium, Canna, Celosia, Portulaca, Snapdragon, Sweet Alyssum, Ageratum, Coreopsis, Convolvulus (dwarf), Hunnemannia, Helianthus, Helenium, Marigold, Calendula, Larkspur, Achillea Pearl, Roses, Didiscus. Die to the root, sweet flower. If so God wills, die even to the root; Live there awhile, an uncomplaining mute. Blank life, with darkness wrapp'd about thy head, And fear not for the silence round thee spread. This is no grave, though thou among the dead Art counted, but the Hiding-place of Power. Die to the root, sweet flower Anon. VI NOVEMBER The garden has gone to sleep! Six weeks ago the birds ceased to sing over it, and since that signal the flowers have been slipping away to dreamland, and even the warm breath of Indian summer's sunshine cannot tempt them above ground. In the first week of this month a snow-flurry played over the heads of the lonely Chrysanthemums, but they bowed serenely and tossed their brilliant colors bravely until they were ready to go. In Indian summer the garden is a lonesome place. Chrysan- themums are passed, and the earth and trees are laid bare; yel- low haze and summer-like air hover silently over empty borders. November's garden work is chiefly for protection against cold, until December places the final covering over the sleepers — a white, downy counterpane of snow. All is at rest, and not to be aroused until springtime, with the first call. of meadow- lark and robin. Practical Hints for Work covering Late November is the time for covering the garden. About the jijteenth, six or eight inches of manure may be laid over the hardy bed to good advantage, and about the twenty-fjfih, a light layer of leaves, kept in place by plenty of stalks or boughs, should be spread on top. 27 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN The tender plants, however, such as tender Roses, need the manure and a deeper covering (nearly three feet) of leaves or straw. Too many leaves are injurious to certain plants, seeming to sweat and to rot them. Plants are covered, not so much to keep the cold out of the ground as to prevent the too frequent thawing and cracking of the ground in the warmer days, which injures the roots and bulbs. Even extreme cold affects but few of the hardy perennials if they are lightly covered. Foxgloves, Sweet Williams, Clove Pinks, and Yuccas should not be covered over completely. They seem to need some fresh air. If the garden holds an exposed position. Althaeas are better for a light covering above the roots, and the Crimson Ramblers, which are sometimes killed by exposure to severe cold, can be strapped to the ground and covered. In most gardens it is unnecessary, as Ramblers are naturally hardy. Do not cover too early, or the htter may become an abode for mice. Cover only after the ground has frozen soUd. SPRAYING Spray fruit trees, etc., affected with scale. The Flowers of November HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM Chrysanthemums 3 ft. various 3 weeks hardy Chrysanthemums, Pompoiie. — ^This variety blooms the last of October. It may be found at any dealer's. The flowers are smaller than those of the other variety. Chrysanthemums, the Old-fashioned. — This variety, often seen growing against old farm-houses, in colors of white, gold, deep rose, or rich red, is more difficult to secure. 28 MID-WINTER UNDER THE 5NOW It is pleasant to think, just under the snow. That stretches so bleak and blank and cold. Are beauty and warmth that we cannot know, — Green fields and leaves and blossoms of gold. Yes, under this frozen and dumb expanse, Ungladdened by bee or bird or flower, A world where the leaping fountains glance, And the buds expand, is waiting its hour. And often now when the skies are wild. And hoarse and sullen the night winds blow. And lanes and hollows with drifts are piled, I think of the violets under the snow; I look in the wild-flower's tremulous eye, I hear the chirp of the ground bird brown; A breath from the budding grove steals by, And the swallows are dipping above the town. So there, from the outer sense concealed. It lies, shut in by a veil of snow; But there, to the inward eye revealed. Are boughs that blossom, and flowers that glow. The lily shines on its bending stem. The crocus opens its April gold. And the rose up-tosses its diadem Against the floor of the winter's cold. T. Hempstead. 31 All nature seems at work. Slugs leave their lair; The bees are stirring — birds are on the wing, And Winter, slumbering in the open air. Wears on his smiling face a dream of Spring. Coleridge. First came the forward darlings of the Spring; Snowdrops, and violets, and daisies white. The year's faint smiles before its burst of mirth, The soft sweet-breathing babies of the earth. Frances A. Kemble. VII MARCH Spring is in the air! The birds and zephyrs proclaim it, and down in the woods there are signs of the spirit of hfe astir in the underground dreamers. The tiny heralds of spring — Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, Cro- cuses, and Scillas — arrive in March and are the advance guard of the floral procession, strewing the way with waxen buds, and bringing welcome tidings of the flower-train to follow. Robins, song sparrows, bluebirds, and meadowlarks sound the bugle- notes over these early messengers, and the gardener is about again, glimpsing below and above for signs of renewed life. Practical Hints for Work before frost is out of the ground March 1st. In February and March, trees and shrubs and vines affected by scale should be sprayed. A tree may be moved when the frost is in the ground and the roots are "balled," or it may be moved later, preferably just before budding. Manure shrubs, vines, and grass. Pruning. — Cut off limbs of fruit trees where such pruning is necessary. Prune hardy Roses early. Prune considerably Hydrangea paniculata, but with all other shrubs remove only the dead wood, and cut back overgrown 33 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN shoots to preserve the proper form of the bushes, without actually pruning them at this season. Seeds. — As soon as possible sow seeds under glass or in window-boxes, and watch these seedlings closely. Do not allow them to be chilled or to dry out; neither should they be too much soaked or they will " damp off." (See chapter on The Seed-bed.) AFTER FROST IS OUT OF THE GROUND March \5th. As soon as the frost is out of the ground plant Sweet Peas five inches deep. Grass seeds may be sown, and sod rolled. Sow the seeds of Annual Poppies and Silene Pendula, if not done in the early autumn, which is the best time. Shrubs and Roses. — Move Magnolias and Althaeas ; also Box and Privet for hedges ; other shrubs, small trees and vines, may all be moved now or later. Hardy Roses may be parti ally uncovered . They can be planted by March 25th, and every year they should be cut back to within one and one-half feet (or less) of the ground. (See chapter on Roses.) General Work. — Begin to clean up. New garden-beds may be made. Gradually lift the heaviest part of the covering from the hardy plants. At the end of the month Pseonies, Irises, Fox- gloves, Oriental Poppies, Valerian, Phloxes, etc., should be freed from all litter, unless it is unseasonably cold. The Flowers of March HEIGHT COLORS HARDINESS Snowdrops 4 inches white hardy bulbs Chionodoxas 4 " blue " " Crocuses 4 " various " " Scillas 6 " " The First Wild Flowers. 34 I wandered lonely as a cloud That floats on high o'er vales and hills. When all at once I saw a crowd, A host of golden daffodils; Beside the lake, beneath the trees. Fluttering and dancing on the breeze. Continuous as the stars that shine And twinkle on the milky way. They stretched in never-ending hue Along the margin of a bay; Ten thousand saw I at a glance, Tossing their heads in sprightly dance. Wordsworth. VIII APRIL Color and life are fast returning to the Willows and Red Maples. Misty green and hazy yellow tinge the landscape. Many of the wood-plants are up, and in the garden by April 1st Paeonies are pushing through the soil. It is the month of Daffodils, and through their rapid increase their number is redoubled each year. Early TuHps, too, are here on the 15th. Animal Ufe abounds toward the end of the month, and the garden's best friends, birds, bees, toads, and butterflies, almost as welcome and needful to plant-life as sunshine and rain, busily share our interest in the green things. Frogs are piping by the stream, early birds are mating, and the love-song begins. Practical Hints for Work April 1st. If frost is out of the ground, remove all litter from hardy beds and from Pansies. Finish spraying affected trees, shrubs, and vines. If Rose plants and vines have scaly crust on them, rub them carefully with a sponge or fine brush dipped in a weak solu- tion of kerosene emulsion, before they have shown sign of buds. Finish neglected March work. Manure shrubs and vines every other year. In alternate years dig in old leaves early about them, or if economy is un- necessary, give manure annually. 37 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN Finish moving hardy Roses, and manure all Roses by April 1st, if possible. Buy new hardy biennials and perennials early this month. The later they are moved the fewer flowers they will yield the same season. Keep the newly planted late May and early June varieties damp if you want blossoms the coming months, and even then some will not bloom till another year. Prune grape-vines early. Prune back the tender Roses to a height of one foot, and uncover them. SEEDS SOWN Finish sowing seeds of annuals under glass. Certain hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground by the 15th, e. g., Cornflowers, Candytufts, Sunflowers, etc. (Read the chapter on Seeds of Annuals.) Prepare the ground for seeds by enriching and pulverizing the soil. April 15th. Sow hardy perennial seeds in the open ground if they were not sown earlier under glass; or sow them in July or August. Not later than April sow Hollyhocks (h. p.). Foxgloves, (h. p.). Campanula (h. b.), and other biennial seeds. They will not bloom until next year. When sown as late as July or August perennials and biennials will make only small plants for the next season. PLANTING Set out Pansy plants from the frame-bed or greenhouse. Dig deep, turning in the manure with the soil where all hardy plants are up, but beware lest, digging near the invisible things, something is killed underground. After hardy perennial shoots are a few inches high, trans- 38 APRIL plant and divide roots where necessary, if it was not done in the autumn. '^ Two tablespoonfuls of fine bone-meal or wood ashes stirred in lightly around each of the plants will improve their flowers. Transplant tender Roses. Continue planting hardy flowers. SPRAYING Spray Roses when the first small leaves appear with whale- oil soap or kerosene emulsion. Do not apply these too strong. Spray with Bordeaux mixture the plants that have a tendency to rust or mildew— Hollyhocks, Phlox, Delphinium, and Aconi- tum are sometimes affected ; if previously diseased spray before the first signs of the trouble appear, and dig in a httle dry Bordeaux around the crown of the plant. SEED-BED All this month carefully tend the seedlings started under glass, and transplant them at the proper time. Further in- structions on this subject are to be found in the chapter on The Seed-bed. The Flowers of April FLOWERING IN APRIL HARDI- HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM NESS Tulips. 12 inches various 4 wks. hardy bulbs Daffodils (Narcissi) 12 " wh., yellow 4 " Jonquils (Narcissi). 10 " yellow 4 " " Hyacinths 10 " various 4 " " Pansies 8 " " 12 " h. a. Wild Flowers MAY And the Spring arose on the garden fair, Like the Spirit of Love feU every where; And each flower and herb on Earth's dark breast Rose from the dreams of its wintry rest. And the sinuous paths of lawn and of moss, Which led through the garden along and across, Some open at once to the sun and the breeze, Some lost among bowers of blossoming trees. Were all paved with daisies and delicate bells As fair as the fabulous asphodels, And flowrets which drooping as day drooped too Fell into pavilions, white, purple, and blue. To roof the glow-worm from the evening dew. Shelley. IX MAY In early May, for a fortnight, blossoms are overhead. Cherry-bloom is passing, covering the ground with snow- flakes; Apple-blossoms are opening, and the green landscape is wreathed in its snowy fruit trees. It is the bumblebees' season of revelry, when thousands of them hover amid the blossoms in a grand droning chorus, and sip from perfumed chalices. May is also the time of fairest shrubs and of bird-song, but not until the end of the month is the gardener's dream realized in the first burst of radiant bloom in the hardy beds. Practical Hints for Work May \st. Some gardens bloom earlier than others, depending on soil and location. TREATMENT OF HARDY PLANTS Probably by May 1st, in the vicinity of New York, all the hardy plants but Anemone Japonica are above ground; and if this is the case, finish digging in the winter's covering of manure. It need never be wasted, and if necessary to rake off some of it, keep it for mulching LiUes, etc. The best of its value as a fertihzer is gone. Transplanting of hardy plants may still be done (until the fifteenth) if the holes are soaked and the plants afterward kept 41 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN watered. Spring-planted summer-blooming things will prob- ably not flower as well the first season as those that were autumn-planted. If the season is dry, soak thoroughly, and mulch with grass- cuttings or old leaves, etc., the Sweet Peas, Lilies, and Pentste- mons. Water other plants too. Slight sprinkling is useless; the ground must be soaked, and not earlier than 4 p.m., so that the sun will not prevent the plants from getting the full benefit of the wetting. The bulbs of Dahlias, Cannas, and Gladioli may be set out by May 1st, or as late as July 1st; except in the case of Cannas, the somewhat later planting is preferable. PESTS May 15th. If rust or mildew has appeared on anything, spray with Bordeaux mixture every other week till July. Dig in a little dry Bordeaux around the crown of the plant. If Roses are threatened treat them weekly with insecti- cides. One class of pests succumb to oily applications, an- other class to arsenical poisons. (See chapter on Roses.) Look for signs of cutworms in withering, drooping stalks. The worm is generally found a half-inch under soil, near or at the base of a stalk. Kill it and surround the plants with the powdered ashes of range coal, or use a solution of one ounce of saltpetre to one gallon of water, sprinkled about the base of the plants. THE SOIL FOR ANNUALS Prepare in rich earth the beds for the annuals. Dig deep, turning under the top soil ; then cover the bed with a layer of manure, and dig that under not too deeply. Make the top of the bed smooth with pulverized soil, and if the earth is not rich 42 MAY enough sprinkle the top of it with sheep's manure; turn it un- der Hghtly, water it well, and the bed is ready for seeds or for small plants. TRANSPLANTING YOUNG PLANTS Toward the last of the month transplant the hardier annuals from the seed-beds to permanent positions. If there are perennials in the seed-beds which are too young to flower until another year, keep them there with the young biennials until autumn or the following spring, or else they may be smothered in the crowded border of larger plants. The Flowers of May FIRST FLOWERING IN MAY AVERAGE May 1st. HEIGHT COLOR Phlox subulata 4 in. white, pink Bellis perennis (English Daisy) 6 " white, pink Doronicum 1^ ft. yellow Saxifraga cordif olia 1 " pink Saxifraga pyramidalis .... 2 " white Saxifraga ligulata 1 " " Anemone coronaria 6 in.-l ft. white, purple Anemone apennina. 4-9 in. blue, white Lindelofia 2 ft. blue Anthericum 2 " white Bluebell (Mertensia) 1^ " blue Late Tulip and Hya- cinth 1 " various Lily-of -the- Valley (outside of garden) 8 in. white Lychnis Haageana 1 ft. scarlet Pentstemon grandiflorum 2 " blue Sweet Rocket 1^ " lilac Bleeding Heart 2 " pink 43 HARDI BLOOM NESS 3wks. h.p. 4 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 2 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 5 " h.p. 5 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 6 " h.p. 6 " h.p. 3 " h.p. 3 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 6 " h.p. 4 " h.p. 5 " h.p. THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN FIRST FLOWERING IN MAY AVERAGE May 1 5th. height color bloom Phlox Carolina 1 ft. rosy red 5 wks. German Iris 2 " various 4 " Columbine 3 " " 6 " Ranunculus aconitifolius fl.pl 2 " white 6 " Ranunculus acmfl.pl... 2 " yellow 6 " Paeony oflScinalis (early variety) 2^ " deep red 3 " Valerian (or Old-fashioned Garden Heliotrope) .... 4 " white 4 " Salvia pratensis 2 " blue 4 " Flags (outside of garden) 2 " purple 3 " Pyrethrum 2 " various 5 " Silene pendula 1|- " white, red, pink 4 " Lupinus polyphyllus .... 2-3 " various 4 " Myrtle creeper blue 4 " Lemon Lily (Hemerocallis) \\ ft. yellow 4 " Clove Pinks 10 in. white, pink 4 " Achillea tomentosa 1 ft. yellow 4 " Primroses 1 " various 4 " HARDI- NESS h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h. a. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. h.p. BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTH Daffodils, Pansies, Violets, Tulips, Jonquils, Hyacinths. 44 Soon will the high Midsummer pomps come on, Soon will the musk carnations break and swell. Soon shall we have gold-dusted snapdragon; Sweet-William with his homely cottage-smell. And stocks in fragrant blow; Roses that down the alleys shine afar. And open, jasmine-muffled lattices. And groups under the dreaming garden-trees, And the full moon and the white evening-star. Matthew Arnold, X JUNE June is the queen of all the months. May's later blossoms linger to bloom in the June garden near the choicest flowers of summer and through the longest and fairest days of the year. Perfumes that are only June's commingle and follow the winds even through open windows, coming as fragrant mes- sengers from Roses, Honeysuckle, Clove Pinks, and old-time Garden Hehotrope. June brings the Roses' rivals too, deep, ardent Paeonies, and, "Here are Sweet Peas on tiptoe for a flight, With wings of gentle flush o'er delicate white, And taper fingers catching at all things, To bind them all about with tiny rings." Practical Hints for Work late-sown seeds June 1st. Sow seeds of Portulaca out of doors; sow also Salvia if it has not been started earlier under glass, which is the better way. These are the last annuals to be sown. PLANTING OUT Finish transplanting from cold-frame or hot-bed or window boxes, and, if possible, do this when the ground is rain-soaked and the weather cloudy. 47 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN Bedding-out plants — tender annuals like tuberous-rooted Begonias, Geraniums, Heliotrope, and Fuchsias are all set out now, or by June 15tli at the latest. Transplanting time is supposed to be over for these plants, but they may be moved later if they are watered and shaded for a few days afterwards. STAKING, PINCHING BACK, ETC. Staking is important for the plants liable to be blown over and broken by high winds. Golden Glow needs six-foot stakes. By June 1st, if not sooner, Sweet Peas need the brush or wire trellis. Strings must not be tied too tight about branches of any plants. Pinch off the tops of hardy Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Salvia, Cosmos, and Zinnias, to make them bushy. (See chapter Notes on Popular Plants.) Weed the beds, and loosen the soil with a hoe. Water shallow-rooted plants in drought, especially annuals. SPRAYING Watch for signs of destructive insects and diseases, and do not let them get ahead of you. If you cannot account for a plant's bad condition, spray it with Bordeaux mixture, and a few days later spray it with tobacco water. Repeat this treatment the following week. Spray Roses as directed in chapter on Roses. GENERAL WORK June 15th. Allow but few flowers to form seed-pods if continued bloom is desired. Bring Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs into the cellar. 48 JUNE Dig in lightly some wood ashes around Asters and hardy Chrysanthemums. The Daffodil bulbs have now ripened, and their foliage with the grass over them may be cut by June 25th. Enrich Lily-of-the- Valley bed if the bloom was not satis- factory. Keep it weeded, and if in a semi-sunny position and not thickly grown, mulch the bed with grass cuttings. Thin out the young plants that have come up too thickly from seeds sown out doors, i. e.. Petunia, Candytuft, Portulaca, etc. To keep moisture about the roots of plants, continue to loosen the top soil frequently PRUNING Prune shrubs that have finished blooming, but only as much as they require it. If a shrub has foliage only at the top, prune it back severely, otherwise cut out only dead wood, and cut off the small end branches that have borne the blossoms; remove also over-crowding branches, and cut back one-third of each of those new shoots that have grown too long. Cut out suckers which take the strength from branches that would otherwise bloom freely. Read books on pruning. The Flowers of June first flowering in june AVERAGE June 1st. HEIGHT COLOR Forget-me-not 8 in. blue Pseonies 3 ft. various Roses (all) 1-6 " Oriental Poppies 3 " red, pink, white Foxglove (treat as h. b.) . . 3 " various 49 HARDI- (LOOM NESS 4 wks. h.p. 3 " 4 " 3 " 5 '• h.p.-t.p, h.p. THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN FIRST FLOWERING IN JUNE AVERAGE June \st. HEIGHT COLOR Sweet William 1^ ft. various Valerian, new variety. .. . 2 " white, pink Lilium candidum 3 " white Caiwpanula 2 " blue, wh., pk. Delphinium 3 " blue, white, etc. Sweet Sultan 2 " various Cornflowers 2 " " Lychnis Viscaria 1 " deep red Lychnis chalcedonica fl. pi., etc 3 " red, white, pink Lijchnis dioica rosea 1^ " pink Pentstemon diffusus 2 " blue Pentstemon Digitalis .... 2 " bluish white Pentstemon harhatus tor. . 3 " red Japanese Iris 2-3 " various Shasta Daisy 1^ " white Gaillardia 2 " yellow, red June I5th. Coreopsis lanceolata gran- diflora 2^ " yellow Dianthns Pinks 1 " various Annual Poppies Ij " " Yucca 3 " white Phlox sufjruiticosa 2 " white, etc. Achillea Pearl 2 " white Anthemis 1^ " yellow Sweet Peas 5 " various Petunias fringed 1 " " Petunias common white Geraniums 1 " red, white, pink Snapdragon (treat ash. a.) 1^ " various Spiraea Chinensis, etc. . . . 2-4 " white, pink Agrostemma coronaria . . 2 " pink, red, white Feverfew, double If " white Jacob's Ladder 1 " blue, white Crimson Rambler Rose, climbing vine crimson The sign * means blooms till frost. 50 HARDI- ILOOM NESS 5 wks. h.p. 5 " 4 " " 8 " h.b. * h.p. 8 " h. a. 8 " h. a. 4 " h.p. 6 " " 4 " " 4 " " 4 " it * « * * h.p. h.b. 2 " h. a. 4 " 4 " h.p. * " 8 " " 10 " h. a. * " * h. h. a, * t. a. * 3 " 8 " h. h. p. h.p. 10 " " JUNE BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS Pyrethrum, Lemon Lily, Ranunculus, Garden Heliotrope, Clove Pinks, Columbine, Pansies, Flags, German Iris, Lupine, Blue Salvia, Silene, Lychnis Haageana. 61 Hea\'y with sunshine droops the golden-rod, And the red pennons of the cardinal flowers Hang motionless upon their upright staves. The sky is hot and hazy, and the wind. Wing-weary with its long flight from the south, Unfelt: Through the open door A drowsy smell of flowers — gray heliotrope, And white sweet clover, and shy mignonette — Comes faintly in, and silent chorus lends To the pervading symphony of peace. Whittieb. XI JULY Midsummer's carnival of flowers is celebrated by the arrival of the annuals in bloom. They crowd into every crack and cranny assigned them, to bloom and bloom and bloom till frost. Their long sojourn in the garden makes up for the fact that none of them can compete in beauty with perennials such as Roses, Pseonies, Irises, and Fox- gloves — the advance guard of June — but the annuals will fill the borders with color and fragrance for many weeks to come. July with her annuals and fewer perennials is ushered in by the tall Hollyhocks, as dear to the heart of the simplest countrywoman in her quaint garden as to the eye of the artist. Was ever a garden painted without them ? They are the half- way signs in the garden calendar, standing midway between the time when Nature begins to stir in March and when the sap ceases to flow in autumn. They mark the beginning, too, of a respite from our pleasant toil — a leisure time gained after untiring ministrations to all these responsive spirits of the soil. Between July 15th and September 10th there is com- paratively little work to do, except weeding, hoeing, and possibly watering, and we may gather more blossoms than ever, to send to some of the stifled and weary folk whose evening rest can- not be found in the cool of a garden. 53 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN Practical Hints for Work staking, watering, weeding, hoeing July 1st. Finish staking plants that are inchned to blow over or to grow crooked. Water plants and shrubs if there is a drought. Weed and hoe the ground around plants and shrubs to conserve the moisture underneath, and thus avoid frequent watering. If roots are near the surface, use the fingers to loosen soil (e.g., Phlox). MIDSUMMER-SOWN HARDY SEEDS The seed-bed is now empty, and the soil may be replaced or thoroughly enriched in order that hardy perennial seeds may be sown after July 15th, if it could not have been done in spring. Hollyhocks and Foxgloves, treated as biennials. Campanulas, and other biennials, should always be sown earlier. Read chapter on Seeds of Hardy Plants for further informa- tion regarding them, TREATMENT OF ANNUALS Trim back the overgrown Pansies, and give them some fertilizer. Finish thinning out where annual plants have come up from seeds sown late in the open ground. If any of the annuals look weak and ill nourished, dig in lightly around them wood ashes, or sheep's manure, or a mixture of both. July 15th. For continued bloom of Sweet Peas give a treatment of liquid manure. Soak the ground thoroughly and mulch it. 54 JULY If Dahlias are not growing in the best of soil, give them a similar treatment, and if thickly grown with leaves and hav- ing few buds, remove some of their lower branches. In a moist climate and congenial soil Dahlias need no such care. PRUNING By the fifth, prune back by a few eyes the Rose-bushes that have finished blooming for the present and will bear later buds. Give treatment as required in chapter on Roses. Cut off all fading flowers in the garden to encourage further blooming. Remove and burn any dead stalks and dead leaves on plants or shrubs. GENERAL WORK Continue to train the extending vines that require it. Give treatment of weak kerosene emulsion to shrubs and fruit trees if affected with scale. The Flowers of July FIRST flowering IN JULY AVERAGE July 1st. HEIGHT Hollyhocks (sometimes earlier) 5 ft. Pentstemon ovatus 2 " Platycodon li " Stokesia cyanea 2 " Monarda 3 " Hemerocallis fulva (Day Lily) '. 3 " Liatris 3 " California Poppy 1 " Gladiolus (bulb) U " 55 HARDI- COLOR BLOOM NESS various 6 wks. h.p. purple blue, white 8 6 » a blue 10 " « red 8 n « orange 4 « <( rosy purple yellow, etc. 8 8 « h. a. various 4 " tender THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN FIRST FLOWERING IN JULY AVERAGE July \st. HEIGHT COLOR Dahlia 4 ft. various Begonia li " Hunnemannia 2 " yellow Cardinal Flower 2 " red Lilies longiflorum 2-4 " white Stock Ij " various Salvia 2-4 " scarlet Zinnia, crimson, rose, white, yellow 2 " various Nasturtium climbing " Nasturtium, dwarf 1 ft. " Sweet Ahjssum 6 in. white Nicotiana affinis 3 ft. Nicotiana sanderoe 3 " red Verbena 1 " various Gaillardia (annual) 2 " yellow and red Hardy Phlox paniculata. 3 " various Phlox Drummondi ...... 1 " " July I5th. Larkspur H " Calliopsis 2 " yellow, brown Earbj Cosmos 4 " white, pink, red Lavatera 2 " pink Marigold, African 2-4 " yellow Candytuft 1 " various Love-in-a-Mist 1 " blue Arctotis grandis 2 " white Lobelia Erinus 6 in. blue, white Torenia fournieri 8 " blue Portulaca 6 " various Ageratum 1 ft. blue Canna (bulb) 4 " red, yellow Convolvulus, dwarf 1 " various Sunflowers 4-6 " yellow Salpiglossis 1 " various Calendula 1 " yellow Balsam 2 " various The sign * means blooms till frost. 5Q HARDI- BLOOM NESS * tender * " * 6 wks. h. h. p. h.p. 4 " * h. h. a. * " * h. a. * " * << * " * h. h. a. * " * h. a. * " 8 " * h.p. h. a. * « * C( 10 " it 10 " to give the bright colors in early July, when they are often needed in case the annuals are late in blooming. Plant 8 INCHES apart — Sweet William, Lychnis, Achilleas, Ranunculus, Prim- roses, Gaillardia, Aconitum, Tulips, Pinks, .\sters, Larkspurs Pansies, Helichrysum, Stocks, Vinca, Lobelia, English Daisies, Gladioli. Plant 18 INCHES ap.a.rt — Hollyhocks, Delphinium, Dictamnus, Oriental Poppies, Fo.xgloves. Plant 12 INCHES apart — .\11 the others. Sometimes it saves room to set three or lour plantsof a kind in a triangle or diamond shape instead of in straight lines. If lower leaves of Hollyhocks overshadow other plants, remove some of them. The curved lines over the entrances indicate vine-covered arches. A SMALL, CHEAPER GARDEN A small garden could be made attractive with plenty of plants in the following few varieties: Ranunculus, Columbine, Lupine, Irises, the Phloxes, Foxglove, Del- phinium, Lychnis Viscaria, Sweet William, Gladioli, Campanula, Gaillardia, Coreopsis, Achillea Pearl, Platycodon, a few Lilies, and the annuals, Silene, Zinnias, Salvia, Mari- golds, Lavatera, Cal. Poppies, Asters, Portulaca, and Sweet Alyssum. Most of them may be raised from seeds. "Hose v?ne.-^'>^gay Aoc/:s"^l7lL|.su/).|-^7/oUt/he?clg:>^^?j^^^j yfc/c/OQr vi-uxopir>jy Ln OS- <-^ I 77^77J-^7/ t^y^o C.^ TTr^ rt3 '"Si:? 10 ;= =. 7X7)9/ ^^ ^ tV (O, ^ooi{^22oihr:c X p. .* '^ ;i^ ^ ^ J Aoiaxa^.^ ppnji^o^^^ ■U2qd2^a )(02ii^ijM {sKo^^ UZ d'^j-^ 7. '^I'^n'^D-^ S?-6J HO «4^ ■H THE NUMBER AND COST OF PLANTS IN THE CHART TOTAL COST FOR PURCHASE OF PERENNIALS (PLANTS) AND ANNUALS (SEEDS) $47 ^ru;l^ *^® ''°®* °^ ^^n'^^ Pi?"** ^"^ too ™uch for one year, buy half the number of bulbs which increase rapidly. From seeds then, raise some of the perennials and of the rest— buy half of them the first year and half the next year. From seed "too thi annuals may be had at a small cost. seeus, too, tne Plants (h. p.) by Purchase, First Year. Cost, $20. Quantity 4 Honeysuckle vines. 6 Rose vines. 3 Clematis paniculata. 24 White Phlox paniculata. 12 Pink Phlox paniculata. 6 Red Phlox paniculata. 12 Phlox suffruiticosa. 16 Phlox Carolina. 12 German Iris. 6 Japan Iris. 12 Lilium speciosum. 12 Lilium longiflorum. 12 Lilium candidum. 6 Lilium Henryi. 6 Lilium superbum. 24 Gladioli. ■ Purchase, Second CcsT, .114. Plants (h. p.) by Seeds. Sown in April Bloom the Next Year. Cost by Seeds, $1.25, or, Cost for Plants, Sll. Plants (h. p.) b Year. Quantity 36 Ranunculus acris fl. pi. and Persian. 12 Evening Primroses, (Enothera spe- ciosa. 18 Achillea tomentosa. 24 Platycodon. 12 Lychnis viscaria. 48 Late Tulips. 6 Coreopsis lanceolata. 2 Valerian officinalis. 1 Yucca filamentosa. 3 Pyrethrum uliginosum. 6 Pyrethrum hybridum. 4 Liatris pycnostachya. 3 Veronica longifolia subsessilis. 3 Pentstemon digitalis. 2 Dictamnus fraxinella. Annuals from Seed. Cost, S2. Quantity 12 Zinnias of each shade, pink, white, yellow, dwarf red. *20 Salvias, red. 22 .\frican Marigolds. 12 Calendulas. 8 Early Cosmos. 12 Japanese Pinks, Dianthus Heddewigi, h. b. 12 Chinese Pinks, Dianthus Chinensis. h. b. 4 Feverfew, double white. 8 Petunias, white. 36 Asters. *18 Celosia, feathered, red. 18 Larkspur. *12 Stock, ten-week Stock. *24 Ageratum. *24 Helichrysum, dark red. 18 Vinca. *12 Lobelia compacta. 24 English Daisies, buy plants. 28 Pansies, sow in August. 8 Nicotiana affinis, white. Sow in borders and thin out. Bluets, Poppies, Lavatera, Portulaca, Silene, Sweet Alyssum, California Poppies. as e.tlvTs Tnlf iT'"'' M '{''l'" ""^' ""''7 F'^'' '"' ?^^''<=^ ^^^ ^ny others wanted for bloom as earlj as July 1st. Helichrysum and Asters will not bloom till August. 'luai 20 24 24 14 14 10 itity Hollyhocks. Sweet William. Campanula, medium, h. b. Foxgloves. J Lupins, blue, white. I Lupiuus polyphyllus. Delphinium elatum, etc. Delphinium Chinense. Columbines. Anthemis. Oriental Poppies. Lychnis Chalcedonica. Achillea Pearl. Aconitum Napellus. Gaillardia grandiflora. INDEX LATIN AND ENGLISH NAMES OF GARDEN FLOWERS (The figures in italics refer to pages giving the plant's first flowering month.) PAGES Achillea, The Pearl— White Yarrow 7, 50, 86 Achillea — Yarrow 60 Aconitum — Monkshood 25, 61, 80, 90, 97 Ageratum — ^Floss Flower 7, jd, 88 Agrostemma — Rose Campion, Mullein Pink 50 Anemone Japonica — Windflower (Alttumn), 5, 7, 9, 16, ly, 23, 86, 97 Anemone — Windflower (Spring) 4.J Anthemis — hardy Marguerite 7, 50, 86 Anthericum — St. Bruno's Lily 4J Antirrhinum — Snapdragon 16, 50, 88 Aquilegia — Columbine 4, 19, 44, 86, 90 Arctotis grandis jd, 88, 97 Aster, h. a /;, 19, 59, 61, 88, 90 Aster, h. p. — Starwort, Michaelmas Daisy ... 8, 77, 97 Balsam — Lady's Slipper 5<5, 97 Bachelor's Button — Ranunculus acris fl. pi. . . . 4, 44, 97 Bellis perennis — English Daisy 4J Begonia— Elephant's Ear 9, 24, 48, 5<5, 90 Bergamot — Bee Balm, Oswego Tea, Monarda . . . 5, 8, 55 Bleeding Heart — Dicentra spectabilis 5, 8, .^5 Bluebell — Mertensia 43 111 INDEX PAGES Bluets — Centaurea 38, 50, 88, 97 Bocconia — ^Plume Poppy 8, 55, 86, 90 Calendula — Pot Marigold jd, 88 Calliopsis 56, 88 Campanula— Bellflower, Hairbell . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 86 Campanula Medium — Canterbury Bells . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 97 Candytuft, h. a.— Iberis 7, 38, 56, 88 Canna— Indian Shot 8, 24, 42, jd, 86 Canterbury Bells — Campanula Medium . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 97 Cardinal Flower — Lobelia jd, 90 Catchfly— Silene 17, 34, 4.4, 88, 90, 102 Celosia — Coxcomb and Plume Flower, 2 Varieties . 19, 61, 88 Centaurea — Sweet Sultan, Cornflowers, Ragged Sailor, Kaiser Blume, Bluets— Dusty Miller .... 38, 50, 88, 97 Chionodoxa — Glory of the Snow 20, 5^ Chrysanthemum— Pompone, etc., h. p. . 5, 8, 9, 16, 23, 28, 48, 86, 97 Chrysanthemum, single — Painted Daisy, h. a. ... 61, 88 Clematis Davidiana (Bush) 5, 8, do Clematis paniculata (Vine) 4, 77, 18, 19, 75 Cockscomb — Celosia 19, 61, 87 Columbine — Aquilegia 4, 19, 44, 86, 90 Convolvulus — Morning Glory (Dwarf) .... ^6, 87, 90 Coneflower — Rudbeckia . . . . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 Cornflower — Centaurea 38, 50, 88, 97 Coreopsis lanceolata — Tickseed . . .9, 50, 86, 89, 90, 97 Cosmos, late and early ... 8, 17, 23, 25, 48, 56, 88, 97 Crocus 20, 54 Daffodil— Narcissus 5, 20, 59, 49, 60, 100 Dahlia 5, 8, 9, 24, 42, 48, 56, 86, 97 112 INDEX PAGES Delphinium — hardy Larkspur 7, 77, 39, §0, 98 Dianthus — Pinks, h. b 50, 86, 97 Dianthus Barbatus — Sweet William . . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 50, 86 Didiscus 61, 88 Digitalis— Foxglove . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 34, 38, 49, 86, 90, 98 Doronicum — Leopard's Bane '43 Everlasting Flower — Helichrysum 1, 61 Flag — Iris, purple 44 Fleur-de-Lis — Iris 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 99 Forget-me-Not— Myosotis 17, 4g, 86, 90, 98 Foxglove— Digitalis . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 34, 38, 4g, 86, 90, 98 Fuchsia 48 Gaillardia— Blanket Flower, h. p. and h. a., 7, 16, 50, 5<5, 86, 88, 98 Garden Heliotrope, see Valerian . . . 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 98 Gay Feather — Liatris §5 Geranium 23, 48, 50 Gilliflower— Stock 7, 18, 36, 88, 102 Gladiolus— Sword Lily .... 9, 24, 42, 55, 98, 102 Glory of the Snow, see Chionodoxa ^0, ^4 Golden Glow— Rudbeckia . . . . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 Gypsophila — Baby's Breath 60 Helenium — Sneeze-weed 61 Helianthus— Sunflowers 5, 8, 17, 60, 86, 90 Heliotrope 48 Helichrysum — Everlasting Flower 7, (5/ Heliopsis— Orange Flower 5, 8, 86, 90, 99 Hemerocallis— Yellow Day Lily, Lemon Lily, etc., 4, 7, 44, 55, 86, 99 113 INDEX PAGES Hibiscus — Swamp Rose Mallow 8, 19, do Hollyhock— Althaea . . . . 4, 7, 16, 38, 39, jj, 86, 98 Hunnemannia — Giant Yellow Tulip Poppy . . . . cd, 88 Hyacinth 5, 24, 59, 4J, 48 Hyacinthus candicans — Cape Hyacinth 7, 60 Iris, German— Fleur-de-Lis . . . . 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 99 Iris, Japanese — Fleur-de-Lis 7, 34, 50, 86 Jacob's Ladder — Polemonium cq Jonquil — Narcissus 20 ?o Larkspur, h. a 17, jd, 88 Larkspur, h. p. — Delphinium .... 7, ly, 39, jo, 98 Lavatera — annual Mallow c<5 88 Liatris — Gay Feather cc Lilium candidum 19, 20, co 99 Lilium Canadense 20 Lilium auratum, speciosum, Henryi . 18, 20, 25, 60, 90, 99 Lilium superbum — Swamp or Turk's-cap Lily . 20, 60, 86, 99 Lilium tigrinum — Tiger I^ily 20, do Lilium longiflorum c<5 99 Lily, Yellow Day— Hemerocallis flava, fulva, florham, 4, 7, 44, 55, 86, 99 Lily-of -the- Valley— Convallaria . . . . 21, 25, 43, 86, 100 Lindelofia ^, Lobelia, h. a 7 k6 Ivobelia, h. p. — Cardinal Flower 5<5, 90 Love-in-a-Mist — Nigella 5<5, 88 Lupine . 4, 7, ^^, 90, 99 Lychnis — Campion 7, 47, §0 114 INDEX PAGES Marguerite, h. p. — Anthemis 7, 50, 86 Mallow, Swamp, h. p. — Hibiscus 8, 19, do Mallow, annual — Lavatera . . . . . . j6, 88, 101 Marigold— Tagetes . . . . . . 23, 5<5, 88, 89, 90 Mignonette — Reseda 88, 100 Michaelmas Daisy — hardy Aster 8, 77 Monarda — Bergamot, Oswego Tea, Bee Balm . 5, 8, 55, 86, 90 Monkshood — Aconitum 25, 61, 86, 90, 100 Mullein Pink — Agrostemma 50 Myosotis — Forget-me-not 17, 4g, 86, 90, 98 Myrtle — Periwinkle, Vinca minor 44, QO Narcissus— Daffodil 5, 20, jp, 49, 60, 100 Nasturtium 56, 88, 90, 100 Nicotiana— Tobacco Plant .... 18, 56, 88, 90, 100 Nigella — Love-in-a-Mist 5(5, 88 Paeony 3, 5, 8, 16, 34, 44, 4g, 86, 100 Painted Daisy — Chrysanthemum 61, 8S Pansy— Heart's-ease . 4, 16, 17, 38, 39, 59, 86, 90, 100, 102 Pentstemon — Beard-tongue 7, 4J, §0, 55 Periwinkle — Myrtle ^^,90 Petunia 18, 50, 87, 88, 89, 90, 101 Phlox subulata — pink Moss 4^ Phlox Carolina 34, 44, 50, 86 Phlox paniculata, late 7, 17, 18, 39, 56, 90, 100 Phlox Drummondi, h. a 7, 5<5, 88, 90 Physostegia — False Dragon Head .... 7, 19, 60, 86 Pink, Chinese — Dianthus 50, 86, 97 Pink, Clove— hardy garden Pinks, Dianthus . 4, 16, 28, 44, 86, 97 Platycodon — Chinese Bell-flower "^ 55 115 INDEX PAGES Plume Poppy — Bocconia 8, 55, 86, 90 Polemonium — Jacob's Ladder 50 Poppy, Oriental 7, 16, 24, 4g, 86, 101 Poppy, annual 17, 34, 50, 87, 88, 90, 101 Poppy, Yellow Tulip — Hunnemannia 56, 88 Portulaca— Sun Plant 7, 19, 47, 56, 88, 90 Pyrethrum hybridum — Feverfew . . . . 4, 7, 19, ^^, 86 Pyrethrum uliginosum — Giant Daisy ... 7, 17, 86, 90 Ragged Sailor — Centaurea 38, §0, 88 Ranunculus — Bachelor's Button 4, ^-/, 102 Red-hot Poker — Tritoma 9, 16, 25 Rose Campion — Agrostemma 50 Roses ... 5, 8, 17, 33, 34, 38, 39, 4g, 76-80, 89, 101 Roses, climbing — Ramblers, Wichuriaiana, etc., 4, 7, 50, 60, 77, 90 Rudbeckia— Coneflower, Golden Glow . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 Rudbeckia purpurea — Coneflower 102 Salpiglossis — Painted Tongue jd, 88, 102 Salvia — Flowering Sage, red .... 47, 48, §6, 88, 90 Salvia — Flowering Sage, blue ^> 44 Saxifraga — Rockfoil 4^ Scabiosa — Mourning Bride, Sweet Scabious . . 19, 61, 88, 104 Scabiosa Caucasica 8, ^o, 90, 104 Scilla — Squill 20, 3-/ Shasta Daisy — Moonpenny Daisy, Chrysanthemum . . 7, 50 Silene— Catchfly 17, 34, 44, 87, 88, 90, 102 Snapdragon — Antirrhinum 16, ^0, 88, 103 Snowdrop — Galanthus 20, ^4 Speedwell — ^Veronica 7, <5o, 90 Spiraea §0 116 INDEX PAGES Stock— GilHflower 7, 18. 5^, 88, 102 Stokesia — Cornflower Aster jj:, 102 Sunflower, h. p. — Helicanthus . . . 5, 8, 17, do, 86, 90 Sunflower, h. a. — Helianthus 7, 77, 38, §6, 88 Sweet Peas 5, 8, 34, 48, ^o, 102 Sweet William — Dianthus Barbatus . .7, 16, 19, 28, 50, 104 Sweet Alyssum — Madwort 7, 56, 88 Sweet Sultan — Centaurea 38, 50, 87, 88 Sweet Rocket— Hesperis 5, 8, ^3, 86, 90 Tobacco Plant — Nicotiana .... 18, 56, 88, 90, 100 Torenia Fournieri 7, ^6, 90 Tritoma— Red-hot Poker, Torch Lily .... 9, 16, 25- Tulip 5, 24, jg, 4j, 48, 90 Valeriana — Spurred Flower ^o Valerian — Garden Heliotrope . . 4, 7, 34, 4.4., 86, 98 Verbena 5<5, 88, 104 Veronica — Speedwell 7, 60, 90, 104 Vinca rosea 7 Vinca, trailing — Myrtle ^^, 90 Water Lilies — Nymphaea 70 Windflowers — Anemone Japonica, etc., 5, 7, 9, 16, ly, 23, 86, 90 Yarrow — Achillea 60 Yucca— Adam's Needle 7, 9, 16, 28, 50, 104 Zinnia— Youth and Old Age 19, jd, 87, 104 The names of the Shrubs, Vines, Wild Flowers, and Ferns will be found under these headings in Part Three. 117 A List of Outdoor Books PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS How to Know the Wild Flowers. By Frances Theodora Parsons (Mrs. Wm. Starr Dana). With 40 colored plates and new black-and-white drawings. Enlarged, rewritten and reset. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 mt. ", I am delighted with it. . . . It is so exactly the kind of work needed for outdoor folks who live in the country but know little of systematic botany, that it is a wonder no one has written it before." — President Roosevelt. " It is exactly what has long been wanted, by one who loves nature and longs to be formally introduced — so to speak — that is, to know her treasures by name, but who has not time to study botany. Your arrangement by colors is a gieat help to ready reference, and the illus- trations are invaluable." — -Olive Thornk Miller. " It is not often that a book so suggestive of pleasure, pure and simple, comes our way. So far as we recall books on flowers, it is the first that makes country walks an intelligent joy for those who know nothing of botany and who have eyes to see and minds to question." — New York Times. How to Know the Ferns. By Frances Theodora Parsons (Mrs, Wm. Starr Dana). With 150 full- page illustrations. Cr. 8vo, ^1.50 net. " This is a notably thorough little volume. The text is not voluminous, and even with its many full-page illustrations the book is small ; but brevity, as we are glad to see so many writers on nature learning, is the first of virtues in this field. . . . The author of ' How to Know the Ferns ' has mastered her subject, and she treats of it with authority." — New York Tribune. " The inspiration that entered into and made ' How to Know the Wild Flowers ' so deservedly popular has not been last in ' How to Know the Ferns.' " — New York Ti?nes. " After a delightful introductory chapter on 'Ferns as a Hobby,' the author goes on to the explanation of terms, to the fertilization, development, and fructification of ferns, the notable fern families, and the description of individual ferns. The illustrations, by camera and pencil, are numerous and exceedingly fine, completing a book that must prove a lasting delight to all nature-lovers." — Boston E-vening Transcript. A List of Outdoor Books According to Season. By Frances Theodora Parsons (Mrs. Wm. Starr Dana). Talks about the Flowers in the order of their appearance in the woods and fields. With 32 full-page illustrations in colors from drawings by Elsie Louise Shaw, i 2mo, $1.75 net. " Tlie writer is on intimate terms with Nature and familiar with her varied manifestations." — The Dial. "The charm of this book is pervading and enduring as is the charm of nature." — New York Times. " Avoiding technicalities, aiming above all to inculcate a love for nature, the author writes accurately and gracefully of her favorite pur- suit, and is sure to win many disciples." — Boston Beacon. Trees, Shrubs and Vines ofthe Northeastern United States. By H. E. Parkhurst. With over 250 illus- trations, maps, etc. $1.50 net. " The book will be found one of the most generally satisfactory of the many ' nature' books now on the market." — Baltimore Sun. " The book is excellently arranged. The text of the narrative part is devoid of all scientific terms, being told in the familiar style which appeals to the unscientific mind." — Chicago Tribune. " A complete classification of the trees, shrubs and vines of the Northeastern United States is given . . . and is so introduced that even the most scientific reader can readily recognize all the varieties." — New York Times Re-vieiv. Nature for Its Own Sake. First Studies in Natural Appearances. By Prof. John C. Van Dyke, i 2mo, ^1.50. " No one can read it without having his knowledge of nature enlarged, his curiosity quickened, and his sensitiveness to the beauty that is all about him in the world increased and stimulated." — Chicago Tribune. A List of Outdoor Books Our Northern Shrubs and How to Identify Them. By Harriet L. Keeler. With 205 photographic plates and 35 pen-and-ink drawings. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 net. " It is just such a book as any true Nature lover will delight in as an accompaniment to woodland rambles, and will make prowling about in country places all the more delightful, for the quiet and easy way in which it helps one to become acquainted with the shrubby things that grow along the way." — Philadelphia Telegraph. "Each of the two hundred and thirty species that are included are analyzed scientifically and described popularly, generally with special reference to its origin and history, its hardihood and its decorative pos- sibilities. . . . The photographs, all of shrubs in flower or fruit, are very beautiful, and so clear as to make identification perfectly simple." — The Dial. Our Native Trees and How to Identify Them. By Harriet L. Keeler. With 178 full-page plates from photographs and 128 text drawings. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 net. "Of such popular books the latest and by far the most interesting is by Miss Harriet L. Keeler. . . . Miss Keeler's descriptions are clear, compact, and well arranged, and the technical matter is supple- mented by much interesting and reliable information concerning the economical uses, the history and the origin of the trees which she de- scribes. Outline drawings of the flowers and of the fruits of many of the species, and beautifully reproduced full-page photographic plates of the leaves or of branches of the principal trees, facilitate their deter- mination." — C. S. Sargent, Professor of Arboriculture in Harvard University. " The plan of the book must be heartily commended. No admirer of trees should be without it, and if you go away into the country for even a short stay, and care to know — as you should care — anythmg about our native trees, you will find this volume an invariable guide. One can bring home from a walk a collection of leaves and then, with the aid of the illustrations in this book, identify them all. Then you will know these trees the next time you encounter them, and they will take on a new interest and meaning to your eyes." — Brooklyn Eagle. A List of Outdoor Books The Seasons in a Flower Garden. A Handbook of Information and Instruction for the Amateur. By Louise Shelton. Illustrated. i zmo, ^i.oo net. Postage extra. The Fruit Garden. By Geo. Bunyard, V.M.H., and Owen Thomas, V.M.H. With numerous sketches and foil-page photographic illustrations of every variety of fruit. Square 8vo, $7.50 jiet. Gardens Old and New. The Country House and its Garden Environment. In two volumes. Illustrated. Each ^ I 2.00 net. The Book of Gardening. A Handbook of Horti- culture. Edited by W. D. Drury. With over 750 illustrations. Thick 8vo, $6.50 net. Gardening for Beginners. A Handbook to the Garden. By E. T. Cook. Illustrated. 8vo, ^3.75 ;/^/. W^all and ^A^ater Gardens. By Gertrude Jekyll. Illustrated. 8vo, $3.75 net. Roses for English Gardens. By Gertrude Jekyll. Illustrated. 8vo, ^3.75 net. Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens. By Gertrude Jekyll. Illustrated. 8vo, $3.75 net. Lilies for English Gardens. By Gertrude Jekyll. Illustrated. ^2.50 net. Sweet Violets and Pansies. Edited by E. T. Cook. Illustrated. 8vo, $1.25 net CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, New York H 1 ^»