ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
It DJattTs to #L 0opl)ia; 
 
 OR, 
 
 SKETCHINGS IN EUROPE. 
 
 / 
 
 BY 
 
 RICHARD C.^ McCORMICK, 
 
 AUTHOR OF " THE CAMP BEFOKE SEVASTOPOL," " THE 
 ITALIAN WAR OF 1859," ETC. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 SHELDON & COMPANY, 115 Nassau Street. 
 
 BOSTON: GOULD & LINCOLN. 
 1860. 
 
0<i 
 
 .< 
 
 ': 
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by 
 
 SHELDON & COMPANY, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of 
 New- York. 
 
TO 
 
 ALEXANDER LOVETT STIMSON, 
 
 To whom they were mainly addressed, and who was among 
 the first to suggest their compilation in the present volume, 
 these sketchings are respectfully 
 
 Hmtxxbtb, 
 
 by his attached friend, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following locodescriptive sketchings are from letters 
 principally written at the places they describe,* during a tour 
 through Great Britain, and from London to Constantinople, 
 made under circumstances very favorable for accurate observa- 
 tion. 
 
 They are published in the present form at the instance of 
 those for whose entertainment they were originally penned, 
 and others of the author's friends, in the belief that from 
 their familiar style, and frequent minuteness of detail, (and 
 they claim no higher merit,) they will be acceptable to the 
 public, even in this day of travel, and books of travel. 
 
 * Half a word fixed upon, or near the spot, is worth a cart-load of 
 recollection.— 7%e Poet Gray to Mr. Palgrave. 
 
Vlll PREFACE. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to state that they do not profess 
 to treat of all the notable places and objects between the 
 leaden dome of St. Paul's and the golden minarets of St. 
 Sophia, nor yet of all that came within scope of the author's 
 recorded observation, but simply of some of such as in his 
 humble judgment will be most likely to interest the general 
 reader. 
 
 New York 1860. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 st. paul's 11 
 
 streets and parks . 23 
 
 shops and markets 33 
 
 house of commons 60 
 
 churches .and chapels 68 
 
 ragged schools 79 
 
 shoe-blacks 101 
 
 suburbs of london" 114 
 
 windsor castle and farms 133 
 
 sheffield and chatsworth 143 
 
 OLD YORK 160 
 
 " MINE OWN" ROMANTIC TOWN" 170 
 
 AN EVENING WITH HUGH MILLER .... 4 189 
 
 THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON" 196 
 
 PARIS AND THE EMPEROR 209 
 
 A DAY IK GENEVA 215 
 
 (ix) 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 CROSSING THE ALPS 223 
 
 TURIN 235 
 
 PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES 241 
 
 FLORENCE 252 
 
 " THE HOLY CITY" 266 
 
 NAPLES AND POMPEII 280 
 
 HERCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS 294: 
 
 " THE CITY OF THE SULTAN" 302 
 
 THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP 317 
 
 THE DOGS 331 
 
 THE ENVIRONS 339 
 
 ST. SOPHIA 358 
 
ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 ST. PAUL'S. 
 
 A ceowning glory of the " World of London " is 
 the stately and venerable cathedral of St. Paul. Its 
 sightly dome meets the traveler's eye from every ap- 
 proach to the metropolis, and serves as an obliging 
 beacon by which his perambulations through the 
 labyrinthian streets are guided, by which he starts 
 forth at early morn and returns at close of day, never 
 to cease amazement at the manifold wonders of the 
 largest city in the world, whose inhabitants are in in- 
 tercourse, commercial, political, or religious, with 
 almost the whole human race — " which has been the 
 scene of the most stirring events of history — which 
 has been a city of progress from its first foundation, — 
 which has sent forth its literature through four centu- 
 ries to the uttermost ends of the earth, — and which is 
 
 (ii) 
 
12 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 full, therefore, not only of material monuments of the 
 past, but of the more abiding memorials which exist 
 in imperishable books." 
 
 Washington Irving, in his sketch of " Little Bri- 
 tain," which must be read here to be rightly appreci- 
 ated, speaks of the great dome of St. Paul's as swell- 
 ing above the houses of Paternoster Eow, Amen Cor- 
 ner, and Ave Maria Lane, and looking down with an 
 air of motherly protection on the antiquated neigh- 
 borhood he so inimitably describes — and this mother- 
 ly protection seems to extend to all London, great as 
 it is — for no structure, not even the classic Abbey of 
 Westminster, or the Eoyal Exchange, ventures to dis- 
 pute the supremacy and dignity of St. Paul's. 
 
 Certainly no ecclesiastic edifice in all Britain, is 
 more opulent in historic interest, or more distinctively 
 attractive. The very ground on which it stands has 
 from time immemorial been associated with memora- 
 ble events in the progress of Church and State. Sir 
 Christopher Wren, who dug deep into all parts of the 
 ground in laying the foundations of the present cathe- 
 dral, discovered no indications to confirm the tradition 
 that the site had been originally occupied by a tem- 
 ple of Jupiter or Diana ; but he found under the choir 
 of the old building, a preshyterium, or semicircular 
 chancel, of Roman architecture — a structure of Kent- 
 ish rubble-stone, cemented with their inimitable mor- 
 
13 
 
 tar, which proved that the first Christian church had 
 been the work of the Roman colonists ; and he also 
 clearly ascertained that the northern part of the 
 churchyard had been a depository for the dead from 
 the Roman and British times.* The first church is 
 supposed to have been destroyed in the Dioclesian per- 
 secution, and to have been rebuilt in the reign of Con* 
 stan tine. This was again demolished by the pagan 
 Saxons ; and restored in 603, by Sebert, a petty prince 
 ruling in these parts under Ethelbert, king of Kent, 
 the first Christian monarch of the Saxon race ; who at 
 the instance of St. Augustine, appointed Melitus the 
 first Bishop of London. f 
 
 "When the city of London was destroyed by fire in 
 1086 this church was burnt ; the bishop Mauritius be- 
 gan to rebuild it, and laid the foundation which re- 
 mained till its second destruction from the same cause 
 in the great fire of 1666. 
 
 Street preaching appears to have been early sanc- 
 tioned in London. " Paul's Cross," a famous pulpit 
 of wood, mounted upon steps of stone, and covered 
 with lead, in which the most eminent divines were 
 appointed to preach every Sunday in the forenoon, 
 was erected in the space adjoining the cathedral at 
 a very early date. We hear of its being in use in the 
 
 * Knight's London. f Pennant's London. 
 
14 st. Paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 year 1259. It was used not only for the instruction 
 of mankind, by the doctrine of the preacher, but for 
 every purpose political or ecclesiastical ; for giving 
 force to oaths, for promulging laws, or rather the 
 royal pleasure ; for the remission of papal bulls, for 
 anathematizing sinners, for benedictions, for exposing 
 penitents under censure of the church, for recanta- 
 tions, for the private ends of the ambitious, and for 
 the defaming those who had incurred the displeasure 
 of crowned heads.* 
 
 The reign of Queen Elizabeth was wisely ushered 
 in by the appointment of good and able men to preach 
 from this Cross the doctrine of the Reformation and 
 rejection of the papal power. The last sermon here 
 preached was before James I., who came in great 
 state on horseback from Whitehall on Midlent Sun- 
 day, 1620. The object of the sermon was the repara- 
 tion of the cathedral, which had become quite out of 
 repair. In 1633 the celebrated Inigo Jones was ap- 
 pointed to the work, and began, (says Pennant) with 
 the most notorious impropriety, that of adding a por- 
 tico of the Corinthian order (beautiful in itself,) to 
 the west end of the ancient Gothic pile, while to the 
 end *of the two transepts he put Gothic fronts "in a 
 most horrible style." The great fire of 1666 made 
 way for the restoration of the magnificent building 
 
 * Pennant's London. 
 
15 
 
 by Wren, then Surveyor General of his Majesty's 
 works. But Sir Christopher had difficulties of all 
 sorts to contend with, in the prosecution of his 
 work — his plans were interfered with, his monej^ was 
 not paid, and his genius was undervalued. Tet he 
 lived to see the completion of his work, and died at 
 the good old age of 90. He was buried in the vaults 
 underneath the church, and a fine epitaph was writ - 
 ten on him by his son, of which the concluding words 
 are so well known : — " If you would behold his mon- 
 ument, look around you," and a grand and imperish- 
 able monument it is. The first stone was laid June 
 21, 1675, and the building completed in 1710, but 
 the whole decorations were not finished till some years 
 later. In the reigns of James I. and Charles I. the 
 body of the cathedral was the common resort of the 
 politicians, the news-mongers, and the idle in general. 
 It was called " Paul's Walk," and the frequenters 
 known by the name of " Paul's Walkers." It is now 
 more sacredly devoted to religious purposes. 
 
 Among the more interesting meetings annually 
 held at St. Paul's, is that of the " Society for the pro- 
 pagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts," which So- 
 ciety has now been engaged for more than 150 years 
 in endeavoring to plant the Church of Christ among 
 Englishmen abroad and among the Heathen. From 
 North America its operations have gradually been 
 
16 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 extended to the West Indies, Australia, India, South 
 Africa, New Zealand, Ceylon, and Borneo. When 
 the Society was first founded, there were probably 
 not 20 clergymen of the Church of England in these 
 lands. There are now congregations under the pas- 
 toral care of 2,965 clergymen, of whom 447, stationed 
 generally in the most destitute places, are assisted by 
 the Society. There have been established in the 
 British Colonies 17 Colleges, in which clergymen are 
 educated : to 14 of these the Society lend aid. The 
 demands on its resources increase year by year. The 
 Be v. John Wesley was originally a missionary of this 
 Society, and in that character proceeded to America 
 in 1735, returning to England in 1738. I was success- 
 ful in securing a ticket to the 153d anniversary, held 
 few days since, and more fortunate in that the exer- 
 cises were held in the rotunda under the dome, a room 
 now but seldom used. The attendance of Bishops 
 and state officers was very great. At the appropriate 
 time the Lord Mayor and High Sheriff came in with 
 their attendants, bearing the enblems of their respec- 
 tive offices. A sermon was preached by the Bishop 
 of Dublin, a stout, gray-haired old gentleman. There 
 was a full choral service ; the performers a selection 
 from the best choirs in London. The audience was 
 very numerous, temporary seats being arranged 
 throughout the rotunda. At the close of the services, 
 
17 
 
 I had an opportunity of seeing the Lord Mayor, Sheriff 
 and Archbishops of Canterbury and London ride 
 off in their pompous state carriages. The Lord 
 Mayor's turn-out is gaudy beyond imagination. The 
 officers of the society, the bishops, and clergy, having 
 been invited to dine with the Mayor, the whole pro- 
 cession of carriages passed through Cheapside, a short 
 distance, to the Mansion House, where the customary 
 awning had been erected over the stairways and 
 piazza, and the guests alighted and passed in, amid the 
 gaze of a great crowd of curious citizens : and if reli- 
 ance may be placed upon the newspaper reports of the 
 following morning, a glorious good time was had that 
 afternoon and evening, in the enjoyment of the 
 Mayor's elegant hospitality. 
 
 Next to the architectural magnificence which 
 ever charms the visitor, the monuments to 
 those buried within the walls of the Cathedral 
 attract his attention. They are not so numerous 
 or elaborate as those at Westminster Abbey but 
 commemorate not a few of Britain's most distin- 
 guished sons, whose fame reached to the uttermost 
 parts of the earth. Those of Nelson, Pitt, and Wel- 
 lington are the most striking, but besides them the 
 visitor, from their prominence, will easily distin- 
 guish those of Lord Collingwood, Lord Heathfield, 
 Dr. Samuel Johnson, Abercrombie, Sir Thomas Pic- 
 on, Sir William Jones, and Sir John Moore who fell, 
 
18 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 at Corunna, and before which Marshal Soult is said 
 to have stood and wept. 
 
 But passing all in its interest to my own mind, is 
 the statue at the entrance way to the choir, to the 
 memory of John Howard the philanthropist, the sa- 
 viour rather than the destroyer of his fellows — the 
 peaceful hero, to whose pure name all ages will do 
 homage, and whose career, far better even than that 
 of a Nelson or Wellington, illustrates a truly courag- 
 eous and useful life. It was by a singular felicity the 
 first statue erected in St. Paul's. 
 
 The outward appearance of the cathedral bespeaks 
 much of gross neglect. The walls are sadly in need 
 of sweeping, not to say scrubbing, and the many fig- 
 ures standing at different points should have their be- 
 grimed faces thoroughly washed. The decorative 
 paintings and ceilings in the interior are now being 
 carefully restored. 
 
 The great bell " St. Tom," still hangs in the south- 
 ern campanile tower. Irving enumerates it among 
 the wonders of Little Britain, and says it sours all the 
 beer when it tolls ; and many years since the inhabit- 
 ants in the vicinity of the cathedral petitioned not to 
 have it tolled in the usual manner, as it shook the 
 foundations of their houses. It has been since struck 
 on the side, without being swung like other bells by 
 the wheel. Indeed it is now never tolled but on the 
 
ST. Paul's. 19 
 
 death of one of the Eoyal family, or the Bishop of 
 London. 
 
 The clock is quite as worthy of note as the bell ; 
 the dial on the exterior is fifty-seven feet in circum- 
 ference, and the minute hand eight feet long. 
 
 The district just around St. Paul's, embracing Lit- 
 tle Britain and Paternoster Row, the latter now the 
 great bookselling street of the city, has ever been 
 famed for its literary associations. St. Paul's Church- 
 yard, as the irregular circle of buildings enclosing the 
 cathedral and burial ground is called, was before the 
 destruction of the old cathedral, chiefly inhabited by 
 stationers, whose shops were then distinguished by 
 curious signs, such as now seem to have passed into 
 disuse save for public houses. At the sign of the 
 White Greyhound, the first editions of Shakespeare's 
 Yenus and Adonis, and Rape of Lucrece, were pub- 
 lished by John Harrison ; at Flower de Luce and the 
 Crown, appeared the first edition of the Merry "Wives 
 of Windsor ; at the Green Dragon, the first edition of 
 Richard the Second ; at the Angel, the first edition of 
 Richard the Third ; at the Spread Eagle the first edi- 
 tion of Troilus and Cressida ; at the Gun the first edi- 
 tion of Titus Andronicus ; and at the Red Bull the 
 first edition of Lear.* 
 
 After the fire, the majority of the booksellers moved 
 
 * Cunningham's Hand Book of London. 
 
20 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 to Little Britain and Paternoster Row, but the Tare 
 was not wholly deserted. At No. 65 lived John New- 
 bery, the philanthropic bookseller, with the red pim- 
 pled face, to whose kind catering for the public we 
 are indebted for the entertaining histories of Mr. 
 Thomas Trip and Little Goody Two Shoes. At No. 
 72, now the extensive drapery warehouse of Messrs. 
 George Hitchcock & Co., lived Johnson, the publish- 
 er of Cowper's " Task," who, notwithstanding it was 
 almost universally denounced by the literary censor- 
 ship of the day, had the courage to publish it and the 
 subsequent poems of Cowper, and the satisfaction of 
 sustaining his own, and reversing public opinion in 
 their favor. 
 
 This quere in " The Task," is as appropriate to- 
 day as when first suggested : 
 
 " Where has commerce such a mart, 
 So rich, so thronged, so drained, and so supplied, 
 As London ? opulent, enlarged, and still 
 Increasing London ?" 
 
 What an enlargement has there been since Johnson 
 wisely undertook " The Task" ! In three score years 
 and ten, just the allotted age of man,* how have the 
 great sides of London expanded, and its insatiate ten- 
 drils grasped the surrounding villages, till all are con- 
 centered in a still more opulent and increasing me- 
 tropolis than the poet dreampt of. The population is 
 
 * i( The Task " was published in 1785. 
 
st. paul's. 21 
 
 so vast that one is apt to lose sight of items which, 
 considered separately, would appear enormous. Thus 
 there are eighty thousand children born yearly in 
 London, and fifty thousand persons always resident in 
 poor-houses, prisons, and other establishments, where 
 they are daily fed out of national or public resources. 
 Then there are twelve hundred places of worship, in 
 which it is supposed about one million worshippers 
 attend every Sunday ; there are also six thousand 
 schools, on the books of which are about six hundred 
 thousand scholars. 
 
 There are nearly thirty thousand tailors plying the 
 needle in London, and forty thousand bootmakers cob- 
 bling or fashioning leathern understandings. The 
 professional men amount to twenty-five thousand, 
 with an equal number of authors and printers. The 
 domestic servants in London, male and female, reach 
 the almost incredible number of two hundred thou- 
 sand. The ancient dames of the Gampian school, to- 
 gether with their co-laborers the charwomen, washer- 
 women, and manglers, number sixty thousand, and 
 as many as one hundred thousand women and girls 
 endeavor to earn a subsistence by their needle. Alas I 
 how many of this illy requited class, 
 
 "Stitch, stitch, stitch, 
 In poverty, hunger and dirt, 
 Sewing at once with a double thread, 
 A shroud as well as a shirt !" 
 
22 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 It lias been calculated that if the population of 
 London continues to increase in the same proportion 
 it has of late, before the end of the present century 
 London will contain six millions of souls ! Gloomy 
 forebodings occupy some minds on the subject of this 
 large metropolis. History does not record such a stu- 
 pendous civic population ; and having no precedent to 
 serve as its basis, men are at a loss to picture the pos- 
 sible economy of six millions of human beings living 
 in one city. 
 
 But without waiting to dream of what may be some 
 thirty or forty years hence, London already affords 
 sufficient food for astonishment, admiration, and de- 
 light. 
 
STREETS AND PARKS. 
 
 "When Edmund Burke spoke of London as " clean, 
 commodious, and neat," he could scarcely have in- 
 tended the second of these adjectives to apply to the 
 streets, for many of them are ridiculously crooked and 
 absurdly narrow. The modern population must not 
 be blamed for these faults however. We must throw 
 the censure upon their narrow minded ancestors— 
 who must have thought cow paths and donkey trails 
 amply convenient for the business of that unimportant 
 creature man. It is a wonder how such great men as 
 Johnson, Reynolds, Wren, and their large minded 
 cotemporaries ever managed to get through such con- 
 tracted lanes. But there are some wide streets in 
 London, more than the stranger would expect to find, 
 from general report. Portland street, Regent street, 
 Piccadilly, The Strand, Pall Mall, Holborn, The City 
 Road and other prominent avenues are agreeably spa- 
 cious; and the city's pride, New Cannon Street, a thor- 
 (23) 
 
24 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 onghfare just cut through from St. Paul's to the Lon- 
 don Bridge, is as wide and well regulated as any 
 street in New York. The buildings lining it on the 
 Thames side are really noble, and much resemble 
 the best stone stores on Park Place and Murray street. 
 In fact it is about the only street in London appropri- 
 ate for comparison with any of the new mercantile ave- 
 ues on the west of Broadway. 
 
 The popular stone here is, when first quarried, of 
 a rather pleasing hue — a sort of light drab — and 
 when exposed to a few months of London smoke and 
 air, it turns to a dismal brown, and all attractiveness 
 is gone. It would be hard to tell, from outward ap- 
 pearance, of what material the old buildings are built. 
 The stone of St. Paul's, "Westminster Abbey, 
 and Old Bailey, is so deeply dyed with smoke, and 
 dust, and fringed with cob webs, that a practiced 
 geologist would have to labor hard to make anything 
 of a guess as to its class. The stone of which all the 
 old buildings are made must be rather a soft one, as 
 it appears to have been cut and carved with great 
 readiness. 
 
 In the old portions of London, or in the city proper, 
 for but a small part of London is known as " the city," 
 the buildings are many of them of brick, and stand as 
 firm as if just finished. The bricks are somewhat larger 
 than those used in the States, and are both red and 
 
STREETS AND PARKS. 25 
 
 brown, or were so originally. The roofs of most of the 
 buildings are of red tile, and the appearance of 
 the metropolis from a housetop is exceedingly 
 curious. The chimney tops are ornamented with 
 " chimney pots." It being very hard to get the flues . 
 to draw, these artificial aids are almost universally 
 applied. A chimney without " pots" is a rarety, a phe- 
 nomenon. In the outskirts and suburbs of the me- 
 tropolis the buildings look more cheerful, and are 
 generally disconnected and surrounded with liberal 
 and well arranged garden plots. The cottages are two 
 to three stories in height, and usually nearly square — 
 say 30 by 40 feet — and having four chimneys. They 
 stand from 10 to 25 feet back from the street line, and 
 are all fitted with the " modern improvements" — gas 
 being always introduced, and in much greater use 
 than in America. 
 
 There is not a street about London destitute of gas 
 lamps, and for 10 to 20 miles out, you may enjoy the 
 company of the artificial light. In fact there is hardly 
 a city or village in England without gas, and the pipes 
 appear to run through many of the country roads and 
 fields. I have often wondered to see a beautiful gas 
 light wasting its brilliancy beside some untraveled 
 farm road, or peeping over a six foot hedge. It seems 
 sad to think of, does'nt it ? that so much light should 
 
 be spent for naught when " Gotham" sighs in darkness 
 
 2 
 
26 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 almost universal, when perchance the almanacs and 
 the moon agree to disagree. But the English people 
 lose nothing by their abundant light. Good lamps 
 tend as much toward the protection of life and prop- 
 erty as the most vigilant policemen. 
 
 The gas posts are several feet higher than those in 
 New York, which is decidedly disadvantageous. I be- 
 lieve that pro bono publico, the lamps are on duty 
 every night the year round. The moon, or almanac 
 makers having failed to gain the confidence of the 
 authorities. The pavement of the London thorough- 
 fares is with an occasional exception, all of square 
 blocks of stone, in size and color not at all unlike that 
 used by Russ. There are no cross walks. The pave- 
 ment appears to stand remarkably well, and is very 
 smooth, yet not slippery, and kept astonishingly clean. 
 The sweeping, for the most part, is done at night, and 
 the dust kept quiet by frequent sprinkling, both by 
 nature and art, daring the day. It would be quite 
 safe to do away with the sprinkling, carts, so regular 
 and copious are the clouds in their outpourings. 
 
 The roads leading to the city are McAdamised and 
 kept in beautiful order, so that vehicles glide over 
 them as over a parlor floor. A few of the city streets 
 are thus paved, and a few with the old fashioned 
 wooden blocks, which appear to stand well. 
 
 The side walks are usually not so high above the 
 
STREETS AND PARKS. 27 
 
 street as in American cities, and are well preserved. 
 The gutters of all the streets appear perfectly free from 
 stagnant water, slops and filth. The excellent drain- 
 age of London, with the strict police regulations, 
 serves to make the highways wholesome and decent 
 promenades rather than mud holes as too often in 
 other cities. There are 30,000 or more streets in Lon- 
 don, and you may at almost any day meet more filth 
 in Chatham street (New York,) than you can find in 
 the whole of this immense number of crowded thor- 
 oughfares at any one time. How much sickness, and 
 discomfort, and inconvenience is arrested by such a 
 creditable regard to cleanliness. 
 
 To the passionate fondness of the early English sove- 
 reigns for the chase, is probably due the origin of the 
 noble parks of which London is so justly proud, and 
 which amid a world of narrow, crooked, dingy, and 
 tumultuous streets, alleys, and lanes, are as spacious 
 and inviting as those of any city in Christendom. 
 It is to be regretted however that they are somewhat 
 remote from the very classes of the population most in 
 need of the healthful recreations they so generously 
 afford. Nevertheless they are visited by many of the 
 poorer people who are ambitions enough to walk 
 across the city to enjoy their pure atmosphere, and the 
 contrast from the stifled courts of Spitalfields, Field 
 
28 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 Lane, and St. Giles's is enough to repay a much 
 longer walk. 
 
 Pleasant is it to the hard-working Londoner to 
 escape at the termination of the fatigue of the 
 counting-house and the shop, to the refreshing pres- 
 ence of trees, and grass, and flowers ; to wide, unpaved 
 avenues, to meadows, to the banks of quiet glassy 
 lakes, to all the luxurious refreshings of actual coun- 
 try, even in the heart of the city. A day in Hyde 
 Park is equal to a day in the retirement of Kent or 
 Surrey ; a day under the great trees in the Regent's 
 Park will well compare with a day in any rural 
 district I wot of. 
 
 Hyde Park boasts 387 acres of lovely landscape, pic- 
 turesque *in the extreme, now rolling, then smooth, 
 and everywhere intersected with charming carriage 
 drives, romantic footpaths, and wide spreading trees. 
 
 It is the great driving park of London, and on a 
 fair summer afternoon thousands of fashionable ladies 
 and gentlemeu may be seen lolling in their elegant 
 coaches, or enjoying the more active and healthful 
 exercise of the ride on horseback. Rotten Row as the 
 main riding avenue is strangely called, often presents 
 a cavalcade of prancing steeds and graceful riders, 
 both male and female, worthy a more chivalric age. 
 There is little fast driving or riding, and London has 
 no " Bloomingdale Road." 
 
STREETS AND PAKKS. 29 
 
 An attractive feature of Hyde Park is the Serpen- 
 tine River, a pretty sheet of water, fringed with boats, 
 and the sail upon its silvery bosom seems like a trip 
 to fairy land. In winter this is a favorite skating 
 resort and is greatly prized by " young London." 
 
 Hyde Park is also used for military reviews, and has 
 witnessed the mustering of real as w r ell as of holiday 
 warriors. It was the frequent rendezvous of the 
 Commonwealth troops during the civil war. Essex 
 and Lambert encamped their forces here, and here 
 Cromwell reviewed his terrible Ironsides. 
 
 The Regent's Park, if slightly less romantic than 
 Hyde or St. James' Parks, and without their age and 
 historic associations, is scarcely less popular as a resort 
 for all classes of the London people. Its vast acres 
 are thoroughly shaded with trees, and I have often 
 noticed large flocks of sheep contentedly grazing on its 
 beautiful meadows. Wide, smooth, pebbled roads 
 and footpaths intersect the Park in every direction, and 
 when the evening twilight sheds its rich azure tints 
 on every side, throngs of peaceful denizens, the titled 
 and lowly, the merchant and the mechanic, mingle 
 and linger to enjoy the rural grandeur and comfort of 
 the ever-attractive resort. 
 
 There is an indescribable loveliness in the genial 
 quietude that marks the hours of parting day mid the 
 drooping foliage of the Regent's Park. The thought 
 
30 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 of strife, the perplexities of mercantile care, seem to 
 pass from remembrance, and man holds happy com- 
 munion with pure spirits, and bright golden visions of 
 peace, and plenty, joy and rest, occupy his contempla- 
 tive mind. 
 
 The Botanical Gardens covering a portion of the 
 Park are extensive, and the lovers of the rare and 
 exquisite in the wide botanical world, here find an 
 elaborate congregation of the plants of every clime 
 and country. Hours, days, and even long weeks may 
 be passed in a careful examination of the countless 
 varieties, and yet there is room for continued and 
 profitable study. To the thousand lovers of the beau- 
 tiful in nature, who from the limit of acres and the 
 avarice of landlords are deprived the pleasure of cul- 
 tivating the rose or lily, the privileges of such a col- 
 lection are inestimable, and I doubt not highly es- 
 teemed. It is to the credit of a nation, that a taste for 
 gardens and flowers, for agriculture and horticulture, 
 pervades its society, even from the most elevated to 
 the more humble ranks. 
 
 The renowned Zoological Gardens, second to none 
 in the world, are also located in Regent's Park. 
 Their extent surpassed my imagination, their interest 
 would have kept me within their percincts for days, 
 rather than hurried hours. The arrangements made 
 for the care and exhibition of the vast gathering oi 
 
STREETS AND PAUKS. 81 
 
 zoological specimens, many of them very rare, are of 
 the most complete and creditable character. Every- 
 thing, from the elephant's house to the head-quarters 
 of the chattering monkeys, shows the results of good 
 taste and judgment on the part of the intelligent di- 
 rectors and keepers. 
 
 The Regent's Park is now almost surrounded by 
 elegant mansions, fit to compare with the most luxuri- 
 ous and extravagant of our Fifth Avenue palaces. 
 The aristocracy look out upon the waving grass and 
 shadowing trees, but to enjoy the peaceful sight no 
 more, or reap any advantage not guaranteed the 
 poorest subject of the royal command. Thanks to the 
 liberal laws controlling the public places throughout 
 Britain, the lord and the boot black are allowed their 
 equal enjoyment. Pleasantly is this demonstrated at 
 the British Museum, where every day its valued 
 stores are freely inspected by all, and the masses feel 
 they have a full right to treasures of which the rich 
 might well be proud. The fruits of such a right 
 must ever prove potent to the best interests of the 
 commonwealth. 
 
 With the expansion of the metropolis, new parks 
 are being laid out. One of these is in the Eastern 
 District, called after the sovereign, is spacious, and 
 already very attractive. Every great city should 
 have just as many parks as are necessary to give a 
 
32 st. paul's to st. sopiiia. 
 
 breathing space to all its denizens, and if too neglect- 
 ful of their breath, to frequent them of their own 
 accord, they should be forced by law to do so. The 
 English are, as a people, fond of out-door recreations; 
 but, even they, too often do their nature wrong by 
 neglecting 
 
 " The bodily joys that helps to make them wise, 
 The long day's walk, the vigorous exercise." 
 
 Thanks to the early closing and Saturday half-holi- 
 day movement, of late so vigorously and successfully 
 prosecuted, the clerks and apprentices now find time 
 to snuff the fresh air, and enjoy the parks and rural 
 districts, more than ever before. As civilization ad- 
 vances, shop keepers and shoppers will more and 
 more realize the manifold advantages of early closing 
 to all concerned. London finds no inconvenience 
 worth naming, in the now almost universal custom of 
 closing the shops at six .or seven o'clock, and earlier 
 on Saturdays. 
 
SHOPS AND MAKKETS. 
 
 As a people, the Londoners do not rise early. Scarce- 
 ly any shops are open before half-past eight or nine 
 o'clock, and no one is seen in the streets at an earlier 
 hour, save the market men, and no business at all 
 transacted except at Billingsgate, Covent Garden, and 
 other market places. The shops of London are gener- 
 ally small. Not one in an hundred is over forty feet 
 deep, and thousands are much less, and in no way are 
 they superior or seldom at all approaching to the 
 myriad palaces of retail trade to be found in the 
 thriving cities of the States. 
 
 The enormous panes of glass, found in most of the 
 shop windows, nevertheless give them to the casual 
 observer, a more elegant appearance than those on 
 Broadway. The sashes are often of brass, and kept 
 well polished. The window glass in the modern 
 houses is much larger than that used in the States, 
 and many of the London buildings have but one or 
 (33) 2* 
 
34: st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 two panes in a large window. The shops in the 
 plebeian portions of the city, depend much on out- 
 door show, and are brilliantly illuminated at night 
 with outside gas lights. The largest and most 
 fashionable ice cream and refreshment saloon in 
 London, of the " Thompson" or " Taylor" order, is not 
 fit to be named in the same day with the elegant 
 establishments of either of these enterprising caterers. 
 I do not think the first refreshment saloon here is more 
 than quarter the size of Taylor's palace, and it is not 
 half so superb* I visited one of the best saloons here 
 in company with some friends a few evenings since, 
 and found one waiter in service, and at the most like- 
 ly hour, not over a half dozen customers f Chop 
 houses suit John Bull far better. He don't care for 
 ice. His blood and climate is cold enough at all 
 times. He wants his beef, his mutton, his cheese, and 
 his stout Poor fellow, how he grumbles at a slight 
 attack of the sun. How he'd foam under an American 
 August day, with the mercury near the summit of 
 the tube and rising ! 
 
 Oysters are not popular here, nor are they as plenty, 
 as cheap or as good, as in New York. The chop 
 houses are quiet nooks, in which one may refresh the 
 inner man in a very comfortable manner. They are 
 frequently up narrow alleys and gloomy courts, and 
 appear to be made as unattractive as possible. Those 
 
STREETS AND MARKETS. 35 
 
 on Fleet street and Cheapside, in the city proper, are 
 many of them honored with having been patronized 
 by such famous men as Johnson, Goldsmith, Garrick 
 and their illustrious cotemporaries, who it is well 
 known were wont to live well. I have dined at 
 several of the more antique and celebrated, for the 
 purpose of examining the curious places. The " Che- 
 shire Cheese/ 5 on Fleet street, is one of the oldest and 
 most notorious. The building is a dilapidated one — 
 the kitchen at the top ; no carpet on the floors. You 
 lounge in, order a chop, and if an Englishman, a pint 
 of " 'Aff and 'Aff," or Barclay, Perkins & Co. entire, 
 and proceed to eat and drink in the slowest possible 
 manner. The chops are generally well cooked. The 
 charge is from 12^- to 25 cents, according to the 
 standing of the house. Bread and butter are always 
 subject to an additional charge of 4 to 6 cents, and 
 potatoes at the same rate. The waiter's fee is a penny 
 on every shilling laid out. The eating tables are 
 placed a la Taylor's ice cream stands, although never 
 so elegant, I have been provoked at the tedious 
 delays to be met at these shops, but to the Londoners 
 they are not offensive. One can scarcely imagine 
 greater pokes than the waiters. To be in the fashion, 
 you must always take either ale, beer or stout, and 
 afterwards a huge piece of cheese. The plainness of 
 the chop houses is surprising, but by no means objec- 
 
36 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 tionable. At one or two places the chops are served 
 on leaden plates, and at many of the establishments 
 nothing is cooked but chops. 
 
 On Cheapside, and other public places, there are 
 public dining saloons in the Fulton street style, and 
 very little if any better. At these you may get 
 almost any kind of meat, vegetables or pudding. 
 The charges are higher than in New York, and the 
 waiters have to be paid extra. Coffee, tea and cocoa 
 or chocolate may be had at all times. The latter are 
 much more in vogue here than in the States. Butter 
 is never brought upon the table unless especially 
 ordered, and the commonest brown sugar is given 
 for use on pies or puddings. At "Simpson's," 
 Billingsgate, there is an ordinary, or table (T hote, at 
 1 and 4 o'clock daily, where for 37|- cents you may 
 get some half dozen kinds offish and two varieties of 
 meat, all decently cooked. There are many other 
 places furnishing a table d' hote. The best place to 
 get a dinner is at some of the hotels, where joints are 
 served up at certain hours every day. Here you may 
 be well served, everything clean and excellent. But 
 you must expect to wait a full half hour or more after 
 you have given your order, before you see any thing 
 in the shape of " feed," and if you get half so good a 
 variety for $1 00 as you could in New York for 50 
 cents, you may think yourself fortunate. There is an 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 37 
 
 air of quiet ease about these resorts, however, which 
 is certainly pleasant, yet one cannot afford to indulge 
 in ease at such an outlay of time and money. The 
 lady of the house (usually a very fat and polite 
 woman) superintends in person the eating department, 
 and the waiters are always very neatly dressed in 
 black, with white cravats. They would be voted 
 parsons in America. 
 
 Here too you are looked upon as a curiosity if you 
 do not order some sort of liquor. Pies, such as are 
 commo.n in the States, are comparatively unknown. 
 If you ask for a pie, you get what we would denomin- 
 ate a tart. The cutlery and crockery arrangements 
 are much more complete than in America ; each eater 
 has two knives and forks, two or three plates, always 
 warmed. A muffin, hot and well buttered, is invari- 
 ably given with breakfast or tea. 
 
 When you enter a hotel your name is not asked, 
 but you are immediately conducted by " Mr. Boots" 
 to your room, which has over the door a number in 
 prominent figures. To this number everything you 
 have is charged. If you order cab, postage stamps, 
 paper, or in fact anything, the expense is not men- 
 tioned, but quietly charged to your number, and all 
 brought out in bold -relief when you ask for your bill. 
 Servants are allowed one to two shillings per day. 
 
 The most fashionable London hotels are at the 
 
38 
 
 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 West End. Fenton's and Morley's are resorted to by 
 wealthy Americans, who stop in town but for a short 
 time : private lodgings are secured by all who wish 
 to make a long stay. To live well at these hotels, 
 costs about a guinea per day — double the price 
 charged at the best Broadway house. There is no 
 regular hour for meals ; you order what you please, 
 when you please. There is none of that bustle and 
 excitement about the premises always to be found at 
 American hotels ; no carriages or porters meet you at 
 the depots or wharves. If you wish to go to a hotel, 
 you must liire a cab. The landlords seem perfectly 
 indifferent as to whether they get any custom or not. 
 Signs of any size are seldom hung out, and he is in- 
 deed a lucky fellow who having walked out from 
 these sleepy and obscure stopping places, manages to 
 find his way safely back again. 
 
 You will feel interested in hearing something of 
 the wholesale warehouses or stores. There are 
 many of them large, and it is the custom for 
 the clerks to eat and sleep on the premises. I have 
 visited two or three establishments, where some one 
 hundred young men are employed, and all live on 
 the premises. They have dining rooms, libraries, sit- 
 ting rooms, and bedrooms conveniently arranged, and 
 servants and housekeepers are supplied by the pro- 
 prietors. At Morley's, one of the first establishments, 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 89 
 
 the accommodations for the clerks are excellent. The 
 library and reading room is supplied with the best 
 literature of the day. The young men have their 
 evenings to themselves, and are obliged to be at 
 home by eleven o'clock. 
 
 The largest Dry Goods establishment in London is 
 not a circumstance to " Stewart's." The term " Dry- 
 Goods," is entirely unknown. The dealers in linen, 
 silk, and calico, are called Linen Drapers, Silk Mer- 
 chants, &c. The display of goods mad.e in the win- 
 dows of the retail shops on Regent and other leading 
 streets, is often dashing, and advertising is quite as 
 popular, excepting perhaps in the newspapers, as in 
 the American cities. Many novel ways are resorted 
 to for attracting the attention of the almighty public. 
 Men walking with banners, and at night with illumin- 
 ated advertising hats, and other oddities, may be 
 frequently seen. The custom of issuing blazing 
 posters and attractive handbills, is quite as prevalent 
 as with the Yankees. Every inch of unprotected 
 wall is covered with all manner of notices. In the 
 printing of monstrous and variegated show-bills, I 
 thought several of my New York friends had attained 
 perfection, but they are yet behind the printers of 
 this country. I was satisfied of this as soon as I jump- 
 ed on the dock at Liverpool, near to which was a large 
 wall, completely sheeted with advertisements — bills 
 
40 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 of shipping, of theatrical and other performances, 
 many of them (if my eyes be true) full five yards long 
 and four wide, and of the richest colors, and the type 
 of an amazing size. The theatre handbills are smaller 
 than in the States, and are sold by men and women 
 at the doors, for a penny each. This would not " go 
 down " at the Chatham, eh ? The inner sides and 
 ceiling of the railw r ay carriages, on many of the 
 roads, are closely lined with advertisements, neatly 
 printed, in a style to suit the panels. " ISTicoll & Co.," 
 shirt makers, and Hyam, " the tailor," have their 
 cards prominent everywhere. They should sell gar- 
 ments enough to keep a regiment of sewers at work. 
 Messrs. Smith & Son, of the Strand, are the contrac- 
 tors for railway advertising. They pay the com- 
 panies so much for the entire control of the stations 
 and carriages, and charge advertisers a good sum for 
 the privilege of inserting their notices, which they 
 agree to protect. To this end, they have large cau- 
 tion bills in each carriage, offering a reward of sev- 
 eral pounds for the detection of any one caught in the 
 act of mutilating any of the advertisements. This 
 same enterprising firm has elegant book-stalls at most 
 of the stations, beside being the agents of most of 
 the London papers. 
 
 Sermons are advertised much more than in America. 
 Bills are circulated widely when any strange preacher 
 
SHOPS AND MAEKETS. 41 
 
 is to appear. Special prayers, whenever ordered, 
 are hawked about the streets at a penny each ! The 
 contents of the papers of the week are announced in 
 flaming letters, a la the New York Sunday press. 
 Just at present there is a great outcry for paper. 
 What is to be done, no one can tell. It is certain that, 
 for a long time, the supply has not equaled the 
 demand, and now it does not approach it. Large 
 rewards are offered for the discovery of some new 
 process of manufacturing the useful article. The 
 paper used, is generally much superior to most of 
 that used for American publications. 
 
 Of the daily newspapers, I had thought to say a 
 few words. The Times stands head and shoulders 
 above all its cotemporaries. Its mammoth pages are 
 widely read. It circulates all over the kingdom. 
 Hotel keepers, in announcing the features of their 
 establishments, are sure to say " the Times taken inP 
 It is not served to city subscribers until nine or ten 
 o'clock. The price, five-pence, (ten cents,) is no 
 higher than that of most of the other dailies, though 
 I believe no other has sixteen pages regularly. The 
 supplement to the Times is filled with advertisements, 
 and the paper is delivered to all dealers, by Messrs. 
 Smith & Son, the grand agents, to whose office the 
 copies are carted every morning. It is the custom 
 for the proprietors of reading rooms and hotels, to sell 
 
42 st. Paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 their papers to the country folk at a slight reduction 
 from the first cost, and deliverable the next day. So 
 that you may scarcely ever find in any reading-room, a 
 copy of the Times for a day or two back. The Daily 
 JVews comes next to the Times in estimation: on 
 many accounts it is as good, its city reports being 
 more minute. Its editorials are not so much thought 
 of, though, perhaps, often full as worthy.* 
 
 But to return to the shops. Every one of much 
 pretension has the Royal coat of arms and the mot- 
 toes, " Dieu et mon droit," and " Honi soit qui mal y 
 pense," emblazoned in large size over the door-way, 
 or carved on the front of the roof. Hundreds of 
 tradesmen display after the title of their business, the 
 words, "To her Majesty:" thus, "Carriage-maker 
 to her Majesty," "Stationer to her Majesty;" and 
 others thus, " Boot-maker to his Boyal Highness, 
 Prince Albert," "Hatter to the Boyal family;" 
 others, " Patronized by Boyalty ;" others, " Under the 
 immediate patronage of the Nobility ;" and others, 
 "Stationers, &c, to the Honorable the East-India 
 Company." It is evidently thought " a great card " 
 to get the name of some scion of royalty as a patron 
 of an establishment. 
 
 Signs like the following are met with in all parts 
 
 * Since the above was written, the removal of the stamp duty has led to the 
 starting of several penny dailies in London, some of which are well supported. 
 
. SHOPS AND MARKETS. 43 
 
 of tlie kingdom, viz. ; " Carriage Broker," " Sworn 
 Stock Broker," " Bacon Factor," " Poulterer," 
 j Green Grocer," " Silk Mercer and Haberdasher," 
 " Iron-Monger," " Assurance Company," " Linen 
 Draper," " Licensed Yictualer," " Corn Dealer," (all 
 grain, such as rye, wheat and barley is called 
 corn,) " Purveyor," "Licensed to sell Stamps," 
 "Livery and Bait Stable," "Fruiterer," "Carrier," 
 " Cheesemonger." 
 
 Over a small beer-shop, just out of Liverpool, an 
 unpretending sign-board makes the following an- 
 nouncement : " Susannah Smith, licensed to sell ale, 
 beer, porter and tobacco by retail, to be consumed 
 upon the premises." Is not the word " retail " 
 quite superfluous, inasmuch as a customer could 
 hardly be expected to consume awholesale quantity of 
 any of the articles on sale in the premises ? perhaps, 
 however, it was introduced to keep great drinkers 
 away. 
 
 I was inclined to smile, (though, perhaps, it would 
 have been smiling at too solemn a business,) when 
 I first saw a sign announcing that " Funerals would 
 
 be performed by ." " Funerals performed " 
 
 is a common sign, to be seen at every undertaker's 
 shop ; and, doubtless, many funerals are heartless 
 performances ; but it did, at first sight, appear ex- 
 ceedingly novel to me, to find an undertaker publish- 
 
44 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 f-nm 
 
 ing his readiness to " perform " a funeral. Custom 
 lias rendered this expression so familiar as to 
 attract no special notice from the people. Under- 
 takers, also announce themselves as " Funeral Feath- 
 ermen." This means, I believe, that they supply the 
 feathers and other paraphernalia, for setting off a 
 funeral in great style. In this connection, though 
 I had not intended it, it will not be amiss to allude 
 to the manner of conducting funerals in this country. 
 In scarcely anything is the antiquity of the nation so 
 perfectly illustrated at the present time. The pomp 
 and show at the burial of a wealthy or noted person, 
 are great beyond description. Mourners march two 
 by two in front of the procession, carrying immense 
 staves, covered with deep black cloth and crape. 
 These men, who are not relatives of the deceased, but 
 furnished by the undertaker at a heavy charge, are 
 dressed in black throughout, and have weeds attached 
 to their hats, and flowing down their backs. They 
 march at a solemn pace, and look so sorrowful, one 
 would naturally suppose them to be near friends of 
 the departed. The hearse is usually of great size, 
 and trimmed in very rich style, mounted with six or 
 eight immense black feathers, standing some two 
 or three feet high. The driver is dressed throughout 
 in mourning, and so are the drivers of all the 
 coaches. The coaches are clumsy affairs, decked in 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 45 
 
 black, and used, I judge, for funerals only. (A very 
 proper plan. I have often felt it to detract from the 
 solemnity of a funeral, to see persons riding in vehi- 
 cles in which, perhaps, not longer than twenty- 
 four hours previous, they had gone to a party or 
 ball.) 
 
 The horses used for funerals, have attracted my 
 special notice. They appear a distinct breed. They 
 are about sixteen hands high, long, and well built, 
 not over heavy, and of ebony black, (I have not seen 
 other than black horses attached to any funeral train,) 
 and have shaggy manes and fetlocks, appearing some- 
 thing on the Canadian pony order. I have noticed 
 them in no other service. There is, on the whole, an 
 air of mournful solemnity attached to a funeral in 
 England, which we never see in the States. Whether 
 it is calculated (affected, of course, as much of it 
 is) to impress the living with a greater idea of their 
 frailty, and the approach of the time when they 
 must yield to death, I am, on the whole, much in 
 doubt. 
 
 The " Beer-shops " should, by every right, have 
 preceded the funeral. Pray pardon the improper 
 precedence given the corpse. It is generally granted 
 that New York can show as great an array of drinking 
 saloons as any one city in the world ; but New York 
 is yet far behind London or Liverpool in this unenvi- 
 
46 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 able point. In either of these places one can hardly 
 walk ten yards without seeing a beer-shop, and at 
 most of these shops, gin, whiskey, and all the strong 
 liquors are sold. The name of " gin palaces " has 
 been appropriately applied to these countless depots 
 of intoxicating drinks. As the inhabitants are divi- 
 ded, so are the saloons. There are gorgeous ones, 
 there are quiet ones, and there are miserable holes — 
 and the latter apparently predominate. Beer, ale, 
 porter and stout, are the principal beverages, and it 
 is customary to display the names of those whose 
 liquors are kept on sale in dashing letters ; so that 
 you may see in every street huge signs on the house 
 fronts like the following ; — " Barclay, Perkins & Co.'s 
 Entire," " Truman, Hanbury, Buxton & Co.'s Entire," 
 " Whitbread & Co.'s Entire," " Keed & Co.'s Entire." 
 These are among the most extensive and popular 
 brewers in London. The word entire is probably 
 added to signify that the liquors are kept unadulter- 
 ated and of the first quality. When very often you 
 cannot find any intimation of the name of the pro- 
 prietor of a shop, you may see such signs as I have 
 exampled stretching over the whole front of the 
 establishment in gayly painted letters. You can 
 have little idea of the immense consumption of beer 
 and stout which every day witnesses in London. I 
 have repeatedly seen notices in shop windows to the 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 47 
 
 effect that a fresh barrel of beer was put on draught 
 every twelve hours. The shops have two entrances, 
 (the extensive ones) — one labeled " Bottle and Jug 
 Department ;" the other, " On Draught Department." 
 The beer is sold for a mere song ; the ale and porter, 
 also, at a very low rate. Everybody drinks, or 
 nearly everybody — men, women and children. I 
 have been astonished to see respectable women 
 quaffing their glasses in the shops, while at night the 
 saloons will often be almost entirely filled with 
 females, generally of the lowest character. 
 
 Brilliantly illuminated with gas, and conveniently 
 situated, they undoubtedly attract many who would 
 naturally abstain from drinking. I think they gener- 
 ally find much more patronage than in the city of 
 New York. It is not common to see a drinking-room 
 crowded there, except on an extraordinary occasion — - 
 the time of an election or a fire ; but here you may 
 find them swarming with customers every day and 
 night. There is much drunkenness, but few of the 
 drinkers ever become so top-heavy as to attract 
 notice. Out and out tipsy fellows are no more com- 
 mon than in other large cities. 
 
 I have seen parties stop their carriages before the 
 shops and have glasses brought to them, and drink in 
 the open street ; and I have been in an omnibus when 
 the driver pulled up at a shop, and detained his 
 
48 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 passengers a number of minutes, until both he and 
 the conductor went in and quaffed a glass or two. 
 Late at night, shouts of boisterous merriment issue 
 from these crowded establishments, and sounds of 
 maudlin song echo from many voices. Once or twice 
 I think I have detected the rollicking words of bully 
 "Wagstaff's " Confession of Faith," 
 
 " Though I go bare, take ye no care, 
 I nothing am a colde, 
 I stuff my skyn so full within, 
 Of joly good ale and olde." 
 
 Certain it is, that, as at the "Half-Moon and Bunch 
 of Grapes," the whole club join in the chorus with 
 a fearful thumping on the tables, and clattering of 
 pewter mugs. But with all their apparent jollity, I 
 doubt not many of these inveterate beer drinkers go 
 far more bare and cold than consistent with their 
 physical comfort ; for while, in view of the climate, 
 and general usage, a prudent use of malt liquors 
 might prove harmless, if not beneficial, it cannot be 
 gainsayed that this practice of excessive tippling is 
 productive of the worst results, and quite sufficient to 
 warrant legal interference, though I am hardly ready 
 to believe, with some enthusiastic tee-totalers, I have 
 met here, that the passage of a Maine law would be 
 either practicable or wise. Colquhoun, in his valu- 
 able treatise on the police of the metropolis, published 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS, 49 
 
 about 1800 — a copy of which I have been greatly- 
 interested in perusing, says ; " It is a mistaken notion 
 that a very large quantity of malt liquor is necessary 
 to support laborers of any description. After a cer- 
 tain moderate quantity is drank, it enervates the body 
 and stupefies the senses. A coalheaver who drinks 
 from twelve to sixteen pots of porter in the course of 
 a day, would receive more real nourishment, and per- 
 form his labor with more ease, and a greater portion 
 of athletic strength, if only one-third of the quantity 
 was consumed. He would also enjoy better health, 
 and be fitter for his labor the following day." 
 
 With the highly respectable classes — "our best 
 society" — wine is a sine qua non ; you scarcely enter 
 a mansion before you are asked to partake. And I 
 would not for a moment intimate that it is not offered 
 with the utmost innocence and good-will. There is 
 no thought that temptation is being put in one's way ; 
 on the contrary, you are invited to drink as a mark 
 of friendship and respect, and in the most orderly and 
 pious families — even those of clergymen— wine is 
 prominent on all occasions ; and I have scarcely 
 been able to make some of my religious acquaintances 
 believe that in the United States it is demanded in 
 the covenants of many of the churches that the mem- 
 bers shall conform to principles of the strictest total 
 
 abstinence. The indifferent character of the London 
 
 3 
 
50 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 drinking water is anything but favorable to the 
 increase of cold water men. Such insipid, lifeless 
 stuff, may you never have to depend on. I would 
 not give one glass of pure crystal " Croton," or 
 " Cochituate," for a hogshead of this miserable liquid. 
 If there is any place under the sun where an indul- 
 gence in beer and similar drinks may be tolerated 
 that place is London. The citizens are heartily 
 ashamed of the poor water, and I am told that, at a 
 comparatively insignificant expense, the city might be 
 supplied with an unobjectionable article. Its intro- 
 duction would, perhaps, do as much towards stopping 
 intemperance as the eloquent appeals of Mr. Gough,* 
 who seems like " Uncle Tom" to have literally taken 
 England by storm. And indeed his mission is very 
 timely, if we may accredit the startling facts and fig- 
 ures of the Rev. Newman Hall, who estimates the 
 money spent in strong drink in Great Britian would 
 every year support, 
 
 200,000 Missionaries (which would be about one to every 3,000 
 
 adult heathen) at each £200 
 
 2,000 Superannuated Missionary Laborers at " loo 
 
 100,000 Schoolmasters at tt iqq 
 
 Build 2,000 Churches and Chapels ... " 2 000 
 
 Build 2,000 Schools at " 500 
 
 * If all the stories be true, the old Spanish maxim is scarcely applicable to 
 London : viz. , " Drinking water neither makes a man sick, nor in debt, nor his 
 wife a widow." 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 51 
 
 Give to 50,000 Widows, each per week 5s. 
 
 Issue 50,000 Bibles every day at , each Is. Gd. 
 
 And 100,000 Tracts every day at per hundred 4s. 
 
 And present to 192,815 poor families £10 each on Christmas Day. 
 
 or it would in one year, supply each human being on 
 the globe with a bible ; or it would, in one year, pro- 
 vide 
 
 200 Hospitals at each £200,000 
 
 12, OOOChapels at " 2,000 
 
 10,000 Schools at ... „ " 600 
 
 2 ,000 Mechanics' Institutions and Lecture Halls at " 2 ,000 
 
 25,000 Almhouses at " 600 
 
 l,O0OBaths " 2,000 
 
 2,000 Libraries at " 500 
 
 200 Public Parks at " 5,000 
 
 Give 400,000 poor families £10 each, and present a new bible to each man, 
 woman, and child in Great Britain. 
 
 So that the money spent in Great Britain alone, 
 for strong drink, would, as far as outward ministry is 
 concerned, evangelize the world — besides providing 
 largely for temporal distress. 
 
 That illustrious character, Tony Weller, gave his 
 son the best education in his power — he turned him 
 into the street to shift for himself; and whether to 
 their intellectual advantage or not, thousands of sons 
 aud daughters appear to be literally turned into the 
 streets of this metropolis to shift for themselves. 
 
 Men and women, boys and girls, all engage in 
 street hawking. Apple stands (though apples are 
 nowhere to be seen at present) are quite as much in 
 
52 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the way as in JSTew-York. Cherries, strawberries and 
 oranges, are the chief articles on sale at these way- 
 side markets. The cherries are not in the best con- 
 dition this season, owing, it is said, to the continued 
 rains. They retail at about 12^c. per pound. You 
 get a very fair bunch, as many as you ought to devour 
 at once, for two cents. They are mostly of the 
 ox-heart species. Strawberries appear very plenty, 
 and are sold in " pottels" — baskets somewhat in the 
 shape of those used in the States, only much deeper. 
 They are sold at from 12^c. to 25c. each. 
 
 The berries grow to an enormous size, but very 
 seldom attain that perfection in color or shape peculiar 
 to the " Hovey" and other choice American seedlings-. 
 I have seen some very excellent white strawberries. 
 
 The " British Queen," one of the best varieties of 
 the English strawberry, is often as large in diameter as 
 an American silver dollar, and generally of a trian- 
 gular shape, and should be cut in slices like a melon. 
 Stawberries are cried about the streets, being carried 
 in huge hampers on the heads of the pedlers ; but, of 
 course, the extra choice ones are only to be found at 
 the confectioners. The strawberry beds about Lon- 
 don are very extensive ; I passed by one at or near 
 Hounslow, a few days since, w^hich covered a num- 
 ber of acres. Still the delightful berry is not enjoyed 
 here as with you. It does not appear to be looked 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 53 
 
 upon as so great a luxury, and in truth it lacks that 
 delicious flavor which characterizes it in America, 
 Raspberries are plenty hereabouts, and they attain a 
 size much greater than in the States, Their color is 
 very rich, flavor good. Gooseberries are produced in 
 abundance, and are held in high esteem. Everybody 
 munches them, the same as cherries or plums. They 
 too, grow to a wonderful size, and appear much more 
 inviting than those cultivated in the States, Goose- 
 berry pies and tarts, are very fashionable here at this 
 season, 
 
 A novel and pretty feature of London custom, is 
 the practice of selling roses in the streets, followed 
 by large numbers of women and girls, They present 
 to yon a beautiful bunch of " opening buds," fre- 
 quently of the most exquisite moss species. You 
 may take your pick for a penny. Where these ele- 
 gant flowers are obtained I do not know ; but the but- 
 ton-holes of the coats of hundreds of merchants and 
 clerks testify to the large number of customers daily 
 met by the fair rose dealers. 
 
 The vegetables of the kingdom are generally excel- 
 lent. Cabbage and salad are devoured by all. The 
 latter eats beautifully, and I wonder it is not more 
 popular with the Yankees, Immense dray-loads of 
 this article are brought into the markets daily. It 
 is piled up like cord-wood and readily sold, I have 
 
54: st. paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 not yet been fortunate enough to get a real good potato, 
 and my disappointment in this particular is great, 
 I had hoped that, with the good beef and mutton of 
 Old England I should be able to enjoy good mealy 
 potatoes — something better than the watery trash so 
 common in the IsTew York markets. 
 
 Perhaps a brief allusion to the London markets 
 would be apropos at this point, particularly when I 
 tell you there are 20,000 persons engaged in killing 
 and selling animal food, and a greater number in 
 preparing and selling vegetables. I have not been 
 able to visit all the markets, but have been at Covent 
 Garden, Hungerford, Smithfield, and Leaden- 
 hall. The former is the great fruit and vegetable 
 depot, and is situated in one of the most noted portions 
 of the metropolis, viz., in the neighborhood of Drury 
 Lane theatre, and age has attached many inter- 
 esting reminiscences to the market itself. The 
 vegetables are piled up all around the outside, and 
 beside the avenues through the market. The fruit is 
 chiefly exposed in the stalls. There is a centre walk 
 through the market-house, on each side of which are 
 small shops, occupied by the dealers in the choicer 
 fruit and berries, the windows of which are tastefully 
 decorated, and the fruit displayed in luscious order, 
 I have been in this market a number of times, and 
 always enjoyed a stroll through this avenue, Apri- 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 55 
 
 cots, nectarines, pine-apples, plums, and even a few 
 rich-looking peaches are offered for sale, at anything 
 but reasonable prices. Indeed, it would be folly to 
 ask the price of a peach. I have heard shopkeepers 
 on Cornhill and other streets, talk of 25 cents each, 
 and the peaches are in no way equal to those raised 
 in New Jersey, Hungerford market is mainly a fish 
 market, and presents not much of interest. Leaden- 
 hall market is but a short way from Cornhill and the 
 Eoyal Exchange. It is the principal poultry market of 
 the city, and much live and dead poultry is sold there. 
 The chickens and ducks are dressed more neatly 
 than in Washington market. They are no cheaper, 
 however. The coster-mongers, or small green-grocers 
 assemble at the markets very early in the mornings, 
 and cart away loads of produce to every section of 
 the metropolis. Donkeys are their locomotives, and 
 usually their main dependence. The coster-mongers 
 are a race by themselves, a sturdy, quick-witted, 
 laborious class of travelling shopkeepers, with many 
 singular characteristics. 
 
 I was intensely interested in a visit to Smithfield 
 market this morning. Monday is the great market- 
 day, and going early in the morning, I had the oppor- 
 tunity of seeing business under full headway. Such 
 a multitude of cows, oxen, sheep and pigs, I have sel- 
 dom, if ever, seen together. The market is, in fact, 
 
56 
 
 the street, or several streets — an open area> containing 
 five acres and three quarters, and surrounded by 
 bone-houses, public-houses, and knackers'-yards. On 
 Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, hay and straw are 
 sold at this market. All the sales take place by com- 
 mission. The city receives a toll upon every beast 
 exposed for sale of one penny per head, and on sheep 
 of twopence per score. The total produce to the 
 corporation is from $25,000 to $30,000 per year. The 
 sales are always for cash, and the salesmen estimate 
 the weight of the cattle by the eye, and seldom make 
 a mistake of even a few pounds. The average weekly 
 sales of beasts is about 3,000, and of sheep 30,000, 
 which is increased in Christmas week to 4,000 beasts 
 and 47,000 sheep. There are some 5,000 butchers in 
 the metropolis. I do not think you would be sur- 
 prised at the enormous number of sheep sold, were 
 you to see the shops for selling lamb and mutton : 
 they line the streets, and, as I have heretofore intima- 
 ted, everbody feasts on " chops." 
 
 Smithfield market is in the very heart of the city, 
 and, as you may presume, such a collection of ani- 
 mals, brought together every few days, and kept 
 kicking and bellowing, is not at all well suited to 
 the comfort of the community. And then the driv- 
 ing of herds of cattle through the city, to and from 
 the market, is neither safe nor pleasant. It is sur- 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 57 
 
 prising that the people have not routed the butchers 
 long ere this. In 1836 a good market was built in 
 the outskirts of the city, but such was the prejudice 
 in favor of " Old Smithfield," that the new locality 
 had to be abandoned. It appears, however, that by 
 act of parliament, the market can now only remain 
 at Smithfield until the completion of a metropolitan 
 market out of the city. 
 
 I cannot begin to describe the scenes afforded my 
 eyes at Smithfield this morning. Indeed, I have 
 seen no greater curiosity than this cattle market. 
 Every stranger in London should make it his business 
 to visit it. The cows and sheep were penned with 
 temporary bars, put up all around the streets and 
 were as closely packed as goods destined for Isthmus 
 transportation. In an extract from McCulloch's " Lon- 
 don in 1850-51," it is estimated, that in 1851 the 
 annual consumption of butchers' meat amounted to 
 240,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 sheep, 28,000 calves, and 
 35,000 pigs, exclusive of vast quantities of bacon and 
 ham. Is it any wonder that John Bull is a fat old 
 fellow ? 
 
 There is much of sad history associated with this 
 
 old market place. Of the two hundred and eighty holy 
 
 men, who in different places in the kingdom, were 
 
 led to the stake in the Marian persecution, besides 
 
 those who perished of disease and famine in various 
 
 3% 
 
58 st. paul 5 s to st. sophxa. 
 
 prisons, not fewer than forty-six died at Smithfield, 
 all nobly confessing Christ and his truth. 
 
 The first on the list of these sufferers was John 
 Rogers, the editor of the first English translation of 
 the entire Bible. The date of his martyrdom is Feb. 
 4th, 1555, Others followed him in quick succession. 
 Before the expiration of the year, six more victims 
 were added to the list. In 1556, sixteen ; in 1557, 
 ten, and in 1558, the closing year of Mary's fearful 
 reign, thirteen martyrs were burned on the same spot. 
 Among these, Rogers, Cardmaker, Bradford, and 
 Philpot were distinguished by their position and 
 learning. Of the rest, who were chiefly from the 
 lower ranks of society, it may be said — 
 
 " They lived unknown, 
 Till persecution dragged them into fame, 
 And chased them up to heaven." 
 
 The present* being the three hundreth year from 
 the date of this persecution, and, a favorable opportu- 
 nity presenting itself in the removal of the cattle- 
 market from Smithfield, a desire has rapidly sprung 
 up thoughout the kingdom, and is extending itself to 
 America also, that a monument should be erected on 
 the site of these sufferings, as a perpetual memorial 
 of those who " counted not their lives dear unto 
 them," so that they might " testify the Gospel of the 
 
 * 1855. 
 
SHOPS AND MARKETS. 59 
 
 grace of God." With a view of carrying this desire 
 into effect, the Protestant Alliance earnestly invites 
 the help of all who value Protestant truth. Their 
 appeal is made to all sections of the Church, as hav- 
 ing a common interest in these fathers of our Pro- 
 testantism, 
 

 THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. 
 
 Introductory letters to the Hon. Arthur Kinnaird, 
 M. P. for Perthshire, Scotland, and banker in Pall 
 Mall, gave me an early acquaintance with that gentle- 
 man, and I was enabled to accept his invitation to 
 visit Parliament. According to appointment, I met 
 him at his office at 6 o'clock, P.M., and we w r ent 
 together to the session. On our way to the buildings, 
 Mr. K., who is an exceedingly affable and democratic 
 gentleman, pointed out to me many of the M. P.'s as 
 they were jogging on to their labors. Several were on 
 horse. At the members' entrance stood a row of 
 policemen, and a number of anxious lookers on, evi- 
 dently longing to get in among the law makers. It is 
 no easy matter to gain an entrance. The members 
 have the privilege of giving but two orders each per 
 diem, and if a man has many friends, he usually has 
 these orders promised for days in advance. The mem- 
 bers have, however, the right to the personal introduc- 
 (60) 
 
HOUSE OF COMMOKS. 61 
 
 tion of one friend per day in addition to the two 
 admitted by order. 
 
 We passed through a spacious hall, the largest I ever 
 stood in, and thence through divers passage-ways, 
 until we came to the hat-room, and a large apartment 
 where the printed copies of the acts are kept, and the 
 clerks have their quarters. The Parliament buildings 
 are as convenient as elegant, and when fully comple- 
 ted will be unrivalled by any legislative halls in the 
 world. The doors and seats of the House of Commons 
 are of oak, and trimmed with brass. The hall is lighted 
 from the roof. There are good seats for visitors, and 
 on occasions when any important debate is looked for, 
 the attendance of outsiders is very great. 
 
 We entered the hall without delay. Lord John Rus- 
 sell was on the floor. I recognized him instantly, 
 having seen him on several occasions, of one of which 
 I must tell you. A few weeks since he accepted 
 her Majesty's appointment as president of her Cab- 
 inet, and it is necessary here for a member of Parlia- 
 ment thus promoted, to go to his constituents and 
 procure a re-nqmination or election to his old office. 
 Well, Lord John, as he is invariably called here, had 
 to ask his friends to stand by him. He represents 
 the city of London ; a most important district. 
 While sufficiently popular to entertain no serious 
 fears of a non-election, in order to assure his friends 
 
62 st. Paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 of his political soundness, and silence any opposition 
 that might have arisen, he was to appear on a certain 
 day at the hustings, in the Guild, or City Hall, and 
 address the liverymen of London, as those who have 
 the right to vote are called. By good fortune more 
 than by arrangement, I was in the vicinity of the hall 
 just at tbe time of his lordship's arrival in a carriage, 
 accompanied by two ladies (said to be his wife and 
 daughter) and a little boy. A great crowd had assem- 
 bled, and as he alighted a number of gruff English 
 cheers were given him. He smiled pleasantly, and 
 entered the hall. How shall I get in? thought I. 
 They were refusing admittance to any but liverymen, 
 but luckily a friend came up, and though not a voter, 
 contrived to assist me. Stopping a sturdy gentleman, 
 whom he said he knew to be a liveryman by his phiz, 
 he told him in as plain a manner as possible, that I 
 was an American, anxious to hear Lord John. 
 " Very well," said the good-natured liveryman ; 
 " follow me :" and we passed the police, and I stood 
 among the London electors. At one end of a large 
 hall a stage had been erected ; and upon it stood the 
 Lord Mayor, the Sheriff, and other officials of the city. 
 The hall was crowded, and there was much excite- 
 ment. The Sheriff having read the call of the meet- 
 ing, and legally explained its purposes, a well-known 
 banker, in an appropriate speech, nominated Lord 
 
HOUSE OF COMMONS. 63 
 
 John for a re-election to Parliament. A gentleman 
 seconded the nomination in flattering remarks. The 
 Sheriff asked if any other nomination was to be made. 
 No response was offered, and Lord John was declared 
 duly elected amid cheers and excitement. It appears 
 that when no opposing candidate is named, there is 
 no poll held. Lord John was then loudly called for, 
 and stepping on the rostrum, delivered a very good 
 stump speech of thirty minutes' duration, in which he 
 succinctly stated his views as to the leading topics of 
 the day, but mainly as to the course to be adopted by 
 the government in the present war crisis. He was 
 interrupted several times by questions from his hear- 
 ers, which he answered in an off-hand and independent 
 style quite worthy of Tammany Hall. During his 
 speech, the members of his family, to whom I have 
 alluded, occupied a private box above the stage, and 
 seemed much gratified at the proceedings. 
 
 As Lord John retired, amid much applause, one 
 Urqhart, a violent political opponent, attempted to 
 refute his sayings, but the audience would give no 
 heed. This man is a most singular genius, and was 
 at one time, if I mistake not, a member of Parlia- 
 ment. He affects to believe that her Majesty's gov- 
 ernment is " going to pot," that Lord John is a per- 
 fect desperado, and that the country can only be saved 
 by his (Urqhart's) re-election to Parliament. He has 
 
 
64 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 been advertising his principles, and making speeches, 
 for several weeks past ; but the fact that no one would 
 come forward to put him in nomination, shows his 
 ill success. I went to one of his electioneering meet- 
 ings at the old London Tavern, a few evenings before 
 the election day, and received a capital idea of Lon- 
 don political, manoeuvres. 
 
 I have made too great a digression. Lord John 
 Kussell was calmly speaking as I entered the Chamber 
 of Com mons. He was merely offering an explana- 
 tion concerning the war measures, and soon resumed 
 his seat and hat. Lord John is not a brilliant or 
 attractive orator. A man under the usual size, slen- 
 der and care- warn, with sunken eye and sober expres- 
 sion : his head betokens no lack of brains, though 
 minus a fair quantity of hair, time and hard legisla- 
 tion having flirted away the locks and left a portion 
 quite bald. The portraits as frequently presented 
 in Punch, give a good idea of the honorable gentle- 
 man's personal appearance. When he rises to speak, 
 he generally manages to say something to the point, 
 and his long and intimate connection with the 
 British government and present position of high trust 
 in the same, has been earned by effectual and severe 
 labor, rather than maintained from party favoritism 
 or political intrigue. He is no idler in the council 
 chambers of the countrv. I can think of no Ameri- 
 
HOUSE OF COMMONS. 65 
 
 can Congressman less pretending in his dress and 
 mien, and more free from aristocratic " airs " than 
 this celebrated statesman. 
 
 After Lord John, Sir James Grahan and other 
 prominent members spoke, but with no especial inter- 
 est. The main discussion was upon a bill concerning 
 the interests of the Irish tenantry, Mr. Napier, one 
 of the Irish members, made a long and powerful de- 
 fence of his position, which had been assailed by 
 other members. The arguments were highly personal, 
 and in an American assembly, would, I fear, have 
 led to serious results. The speakers were, none of 
 them, very eloquent, The members all sat with their 
 hats on, jerking them off, however, when rising to 
 speak. The Lord Chancellor sat upon the wool-sack, 
 appropriately wigged, and several of his attendants 
 wore wigs. The Sergeant-at-arms sat on a high seat 
 near the door, and wore a long cue, and had a sword 
 dangling by his side. From my seat in the visiter's 
 gallery ; on the ground floor, I had an admirable 
 view of the whole hall. The members are, many of 
 them, young men, and their indifference to the pro- 
 ceedings, the running in and out, and the side-talk, 
 reminded me of other legislative bodies of which I 
 have some knowledge. Whenever a speaker would 
 say anything thought to be very good, the cries of 
 " Hear ! hear !" became so numerous and loud as 
 
66 
 
 to echo throughout the building. The sessions com- 
 mence in the afternoon, and generally terminate at 
 two o'clock in the morning. The reporters have a 
 large gallery to themselves, just over the seat of the 
 Lord Chancellor. They work very hard, and are 
 completely exhausted at the close of the season. Their 
 wages are liberal, and they are mainly men of emi- 
 nent attainments. 
 
 The members of the House of Commons, though 
 generally shrewd and able men, are by no means all 
 from the highest ranks of society. Many instances 
 have been brought to notice in which, from circum- 
 stances the most unfavorable, men have won high 
 parliamentary honors — and from all I can learn, it is 
 about as easy for one who has perseverance, political 
 sagacity, and a long purse, to secure a seat in the 
 Commons, as in America to obtain an election to Con- 
 gress. Marvellous stories are told, however, of the 
 costs in hotly-contested districts, and bribery and 
 corruption that would shame even New York, are, if 
 report be correct, sometimes resorted to, to secure 
 success. 
 
 There is however on the whole a healthy political 
 atmosphere, and few of the restraints to advancement 
 which I had expected to find. George the Third 
 frequently uttered the liberal axiom, "No British 
 subject is by necessity excluded from the peerage." 
 
HOUSE OF COMMONS. 67 
 
 Consistently with this sentiment, he once checked a 
 man of high rank who was lamenting that a very 
 good speaker in the Court of Aldermen was of a mean 
 trade. " What signifies a man's trade ?" said the old 
 monarch, " a man of any honest trade may make him- 
 self respectable if he will." And in the House of 
 Lords, to which I was conducted from the Commons 
 Chamber, there is pleasing proof of the truthfulness 
 of the King's assurance. Several of the more promi- 
 nent and influential peers of the realm sprang from 
 untitled families, and hold their seats by virtue of 
 their Sovereign's appreciation of honest worth and 
 ability. 
 
OHUKCHES AND CHAPELS. 
 
 After Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, there 
 are perhaps an hundred church buildings in London, 
 each worthy a chapter of careful description— and I 
 have notes of much of interest chat I have found with- 
 in the walls of those I have been able to visit, but 
 must not attempt to incorporate them in this letter. 
 Not a few of the older buildings have been remodel- 
 led, or " beautified," as it is here expressed, and often 
 but little to their improvement. There is now a pro- 
 ject on foot to take down several dozen of the struc- 
 tures in the city proper, inasmuch as the residents 
 have, (like those of New York) gone further up-town ; 
 but the old settlers, some of whom still cling to their 
 old homes, protest, and it is likely nothing will be 
 done yet awhile. The congregations in attendance at 
 many of these city churches are very small, and not 
 sufficient to warrant their support— but on the other 
 
 hand the architectural richness of the buildings is too 
 (68) & 
 
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 69 
 
 great to be ruthlessly blotted out. Happily there is 
 less vandalism here than in many American cities. 
 
 The chapels of the dissenters are every year becom- 
 ing more elegant, and will soon be without the severe 
 simplicity in their exterior and interior finish which 
 has hitherto so much distinguished them from the 
 churches. The difference will be rather in name than 
 architecture, upholstery, or cost. There are many 
 very wealthy dissenting congregations and there are 
 few if any governmental obstacles to the rapid aug- 
 mentation of chapels. 
 
 The pulpit orators of London, both among the 
 Churchmen and Nonconformists, are in the main 
 faithful, learned and eloquent men. I have been 
 pleased with their manner of preaching. It is gener- 
 ally free from the rhetorical display so prevalent in 
 America, and far better calculated to win souls. 
 
 On my first Sabbath here I started forth without 
 any fixed determination as to what church or chapel 
 I should attend — and strangely enough chanced to 
 enter what proved to be St. Mary-le-Bow, Cheapside, 
 which, next to St. Paul's, is better known in civic 
 story, than any other church in London. It takes its 
 name of Bow from having been one of the first built 
 in England upon bows or arches. A romantic inci- 
 dent connected with this church is known to all the 
 youth of England. The bells of Bow were those that 
 
70 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 rang the prophecy in the ears of Richard Whittington 
 when he sat down disconsolate upon the milestone at 
 Highgate, the world and all its troubles before him, 
 and knew not where to go. 
 
 " Turn again, Whittington, 
 Lord Mayor of London I" 
 
 said the bells ; and he did turn, as all the little boys 
 and girls in Great Britain devoutly believe, and be- 
 came indeed that high dignitary. The same bells, or 
 their worthy successors, still ring melodiously from 
 Bow steeple, and persons born within their sound are 
 as ever denominated " Cockneys," and made the butt 
 of much good-natured ridicule. 
 
 Rev. Mr. Yine, the rector of St. Mary-le-Bow, gave 
 an impressive discourse, and the singing by the chari- 
 ty children, whose prim gowns and bonnets enlivened 
 the galleries, added to the interest of the service. It 
 was difficult to tell the extent of the audience from 
 the extraordinary high backs to the pews — indeed 
 they completely shut the worshippers from each oth- 
 er's view. 
 
 In the evening I wound my way to John street 
 Chapel, to listen to the celebrated Hon. and Rev. 
 Baptist "W". Noel, formerly of the Established Church, 
 and at one time Chaplain to the Queen — but who, 
 some two years since, joined the Baptists, and is now 
 considered one of the first dissenting ministers in 
 
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 71 
 
 London. The John street Chapel is very plain, but 
 the honest, intelligent look of the large and attentive 
 audience assured me I had fallen in good company. 
 The church numbers some six hundred members, and 
 the Sunday schools are very large. There is nothing 
 remarkable in Mr. Noel's style of preaching. He has 
 a sweetly persuasive voice, and his forte seems to be 
 calmness and kindness rather than novelty or boldness 
 — and there is a delightful simplicity and sincerity in 
 every word that falls from his ready lips. Those most 
 hostile to his separation from the Establishment, 
 where his name and talent would certainly have in- 
 sured him great influence and honor, never for a mo- 
 ment question the conscientious integrity with which 
 he entered his new ecclesiastical relations, and made 
 a change involving a sacrifice of which an American 
 can scarce form an adequate idea. 
 
 The Eev. Dr. dimming, of the Scotch chapel near 
 the Drury Lane Theatre, is very popular with the 
 masses. He is a smooth, deep preacher. There is 
 nothing startling in his manner, but much to delight. 
 His chapel, rather an awkward building, is always 
 full, and generally crowded to excess. Strangers 
 happening in London over the Sabbath, make it a 
 point to attend, and consequently the galleries contain 
 mixed and strange audiences. I have been to hear 
 
72 st. paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 the Doctor twice, and could secure a seat on neither 
 occasion. 
 
 Dr. Cumming enjoys a high reputation as an author. 
 His " Yoices of the Day," " Voices of the Night," and 
 " Apocalyptic Sketches," have had a wide sale, and 
 withal he may be said to occupy the front rank in 
 popularity among the metropolitan clergy. He is 
 rather a comely man, with heavy- bushy hair, and 
 large, black whiskers, and is yet young in years, and 
 apparently fitted for a long and energetic career.* 
 
 The Rev. "William Brock is one of the ablest Bap- 
 tist ministers in London. His chapel is on Blooms- 
 bury-street, near Oxford-street — a very spacious and 
 neat edifice. Mr. Brock is a regular John Bull in 
 appearance and action. His sentiments are ejected 
 with a sturdy emphasis, and one can but realize the 
 preacher's devotion to his holy calling. He is a man 
 of great talent, and enjoys the esteem of all denomi- 
 nations. Though differing in every respect from the 
 Hon. and Rev. B. "W". Noel, he has a reputation 
 equally high ; and together, these eminent divines 
 
 * Soon after Dr. Cumming was licensed to preach, he went to London, poor 
 and unknown, taking with him a letter of introduction to a baker, whom he 
 asked what he could do for him. The haker replied that they had a small 
 church, but could not pay a minister ; but if he would stay a month with them 
 he would board him. The young preacher assented, and said if they would 
 give him the pew rents he would always be satisfied. " Why," said the baker, 
 "they will not find salt for thy porridge.' ' The bargain still remains, and 
 it is said the popular preacher now receives £6,000, per annum. 
 
CHUKCHES AND CHAPELS, 73 
 
 give the Baptists a prominence and good standing in 
 the metropolis, which they fail to have in many other 
 portions of the kingdom. 
 
 TheEev. James Hamilton, D. D., F. L. S., the tal- 
 ented author of the " Eoyal Preacher," " Life in Ear 
 nest," and other justly popular religious works, is yet 
 a young man. His preaching is of that plain and 
 earnest style which at once impresses the hearer with 
 its truthfulness. Dr. Hamilton holds a high position 
 He is a Scotchman, and most of his church-members 
 are from the " Land o' cakes." I had the pleasure of 
 breakfasting with him a few days since, and found 
 him as amiable in the domestic circle as in the pulpit. 
 
 The Eev. Thomas Binney is the " main stay" of the 
 Congregationalists of London. He is a noble-looking 
 man, and a forcible and popular preacher. I have 
 met him on several occasions. 
 
 Having heard that Dr. McISTeile was to preach in 
 London, and having lost an opportunity of hearing 
 him while at Liverpool, I was in attendance at the 
 Eev. Mr. Nolan's Chapel, St. Johns, Bedford Eow, 
 where it had been announced that the eloquent 
 preacher would appear. Long before the time of 
 commencing, the sidewalk was thronged with per- 
 sons anxious to get a hearing. 
 
 Eev. Hugh McNeile, D. D., of Liverpool, has long 
 maintained an exalted reputation as a preacher of the 
 
74 ST. PAUl/s TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 Gospel. He is about sixty years of age, some six 
 feet in height, not very stout, and has as fine a head 
 of silvered hair as you may meet in a day's walk. 
 His voice is peculiarly fitted for attracting the atten- 
 tion — neither harsh nor faint, but melodious and 
 most agreeably distinct. Standing in the pulpit, 
 enrobed in the clerical gown of the Church of Eng- 
 land, he presents at once a dignified and graceful 
 appearance. He had no notes, but held a small Bible 
 in his hand. Taking for his text the words recorded 
 in the twelfth chapter and second verse of Hebrews, 
 he discoursed for nearly an hour in a thoroughly prac- 
 tical and highly eloquent vein. His allusions to the 
 war between England and Russia, and other exciting 
 topics of the day, satisfied me that unlike many mod- 
 ern preachers, he sought to deal with his hearers as 
 rational creatures, rather than as persons of fancy and 
 fine spun theory. The large chapel was crowded to 
 excess, every aisle and nook filled with eager listeners. 
 Aged women officiated as sextons or pew-openers. 
 The singing charmed me : " Old Hundred," sung 
 with a will by the vast assembly, sounded more beau- 
 tiful to my ears than the choicest opera ditty Maretzek 
 ever imported. 
 
 Once or twice I have dropped in to listen to the 
 " Golden Lectures," founded by a fund left many 
 years since, and now delivered in St. Margaret's 
 
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 75 
 
 Church, opposite the Bank of England, on successive 
 Tuesday mornings, by the Rev. Henry Melville. 
 These admirable discourses are listened to by hun- 
 dreds of the principal citizens and merchants of Lon- 
 don, and it would be difficult to speak too highly of 
 their practical value. 
 
 Sheridan Knowles, once a popular actor and long 
 noted as a dramatic writer of much ability, having 
 lately entered the ministry (of the Baptist Church) I, 
 with no little curiosity, embraced an opportunity to 
 hear him in his new character and calling. His ser 
 mon or more properly lecture, given in one of the 
 Islington chapels, was alike eloquent and powerful ; 
 and the rare talents so long directed merely to the 
 entertainment of his fellows, are now fully consecra- 
 ted to a higher and nobler end, that of their eternal 
 well-being. 
 
 The City Road Chapel remains very -much as in 
 the days of the "Wesleys, and is one of the modest 
 lions of London. It is still in regular use, and is the 
 home of a flourishing and influential congregation 
 of that ever extending sect, for the etablishment of 
 which the intrepid brothers learned : 
 
 " How sublime a thing it is 
 To suffer and be strong " 
 
 On the right of the chancel are plain tablets to the 
 
 memory of John Wesley, Adam Clarke, Thomas 
 
76 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 Coke, and Ei chard Watson, and on the left, are those 
 of Charles Wesley, John Fletcher and Joseph Ben- 
 son. In the yard just back of the chapel, and very 
 nearly in a line with the pulpit, is the grave of John 
 Wesley, around which thosuands of pilgrims from 
 all lands gather every year, to drop a silent tear in 
 memory of the great and good apostle. It has been 
 well said by a recent English writer : " The moral 
 state of that man is not to be desired who can enter 
 within the gates on the right of City Eoad Chapel, 
 and tread the narrow path which leads to the obelisk 
 tomb of the founder of Methodism, without solemn 
 thoughts and reflections, or throbs of deep emotion." 
 Close beside Wesley's honored grave, repose the re- 
 mains of Dr. Adam Clarke, the wise and popular 
 commentator. Immediately opposite the City Road 
 Chapel is the small cemetery called " Bunhill Fields." 
 After the showy and costly sculptures of the Abbey 
 and St. Paul's, with their fulsome and" oft unmerited 
 inscriptions, the plain grey gravestones here com- 
 pactly crowding one another, offer comparatively 
 little to attract the casual observer, but to him who 
 patiently treads its winding walks, and honors the 
 world's true heroes, " Bunhill Fields " discovers a 
 rare interest. Here is the tomb of that sweet singer, 
 Dr. Isaac Watts, whose beautiful songs range from 
 those taught us in our nursery days, and never forgot- 
 
CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 77 
 
 en, to the sublimest of our church hymns— and 
 here also is the grave of Dr. Bippon, another eminent 
 Christian psalmist. The chief attraction, however, 
 amid the thousand monuments, is the unpretending 
 slab, on which is written :. 
 
 "MR. JOHN BUNYAN, 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE ' PILGRIM^ PROGRESS,* 
 
 Died August 31, 1688, 
 
 AGED 60." 
 
 From my earliest recollection, Bunyan and his 
 immortal " Pilgrim's Frogress " have occupied no 
 small space in my affections, and to stand in the pres- 
 ence as it were, of the ashes of the "marvellous 
 dreamer," was quite enough to stir the liveliest emo- 
 tions of my nature. "What writer has exerted a 
 wider and happier influence than honest John Bun- 
 yan ? What book has been so universally read and 
 re-read, as his wonderful allegory ? Next to the 
 Bible, and no book could more properly follow the 
 divine word, it is every where cherished and admired. 
 Even the poor Feejees (or Fijians) are soon to have it 
 translated in their native tongue, and it will to them, 
 as to the better civilized, prove a volume of the 
 purest and most captivating interest. I wish I 
 might enumerate the editions that have been printed 
 in English alone. Every publisher has striven to 
 give it a richer dress, every succeeding age claims for 
 
78 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 it a higher value, and now, though the bust of the 
 Elstow tinker, who living had no friend at an earthly 
 court, has an honored place in the gallery of sculp- 
 ture in the House of Commons, he lives far more 
 imperishably in the hearts of the brave and good of 
 every land. As, on the occasion of my visit to the 
 cemetery, several pretty children were lightly trip- 
 ping through the narrow pathways, stopping here 
 and there to decipher the well worn inscriptions on 
 the moss-grown stones, and finally to silently gaze 
 upon the tomb of the stern old pilgrim, I was re- 
 minded of the never ceasing charm of his glorious 
 dream to the youthful mind, and its many lessons for 
 the young. Who may more appropriately linger in 
 " Bunhill Fields" than the children ? Only the other 
 day, I was told of a sweet little boy, who, after read- 
 ing the " Pilgrim's Progress," said to his grand- 
 mother : " Grandma, which of the characters do you 
 like best?" She replied, " Christian, of course, he is 
 the hero of the story." He responded, "I like 
 Christiana best, because when Christian set out on 
 his pilgrimage he went alone ; but when Christiana 
 started out she took the children with her." I wish 
 the little fellow was here that his tiny hands might 
 scatter flowers over the quiet grave of him who 
 counselled Christiana to take her four boys with her 
 to the celestial city ! 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 
 
 When" I stood before the statue of Howard, in St. 
 PauPs, I was reminded of his admirable prescription 
 for shaking off trouble : u Set about doing good to 
 somebody ; put on your hat, and go and visit the 
 poor, inquire into their wants, and administer unto 
 them ; seek out the desolate and oppressed, and tell 
 them of the consolations of religion." 
 
 1 I have often tried this,' 5 said the great philanthro- 
 pist, " and found it the best medicine for a heavy 
 heart," and many in all lands have fortunately had 
 the same experience. Here even in this wilderness of 
 trade and worldly gain, there are not a few who find 
 their chief joy in doing good to their fellows, in feed- 
 ing the hungry, clothing the naked, educating the 
 ignorant, watching with the sick, and smoothing the 
 pillow of the dying. 
 • The English have good reason to think highly of 
 
 their numerous and well directed charitable institu- 
 (79) 
 
80 ST. FAUl/sf TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 tions and societies, especially those of a directly 
 religious character. All classes of the well to do 
 people, from the peer of the realm down, apparently 
 have an intensely practical method of doing good, and 
 few if any of their benevolent organizations fail to 
 accomplish tangible and important results. Of late 
 years a happy sympathy for the long neglected poor, 
 and obdurate, so numerously existing in all the larger 
 cities, has developed itself in many judicious and 
 eminently praiseworthy efforts for their temporal and 
 spiritual relief. Indeed it is necessary to look care- 
 fully to the former to insure success in the latter. " I 
 have invariably found," says a keen observer of 
 society, "that advice to a poor man goes best with a 
 glass of beer, and the leer first <." The English philan- 
 thropists of the present day fortunately recognise the 
 indisputable accuracy of this quaint observation and 
 accordingly they now to a great degree feed, and 
 clothe, and house the homeless and degraded before 
 attempting to train them, in the things pertaining to 
 morality and religion. I pass by the older and more 
 pretentious charities, numerous and estimable as they 
 are, to speak a word of the Ragged Schools now so 
 generally and efficiently established in all the more 
 destitute districts of London. What prodigious pro- 
 gress has been made in the provision for the children 
 of the streets, since the days of John Pounds and 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 81 
 
 Jonas Hanway, the worthy founders of the Eagged 
 School. 
 
 No organization of all the well managed philan- 
 thropise enterprises of the day is more efficient than 
 the " Eagged School Union." At its head is that 
 sterling noble-man and Christian, the Earl of Shaftes- 
 bury, who amid all the cares and perplexities of 
 exalted public position and popularity, — has been 
 neither too proud nor too busy to listen to the cry of 
 the needy and suffering, nor in any wise to neglect 
 the service of Him whose commands are infinitely 
 above those of kings and princes. It is not in my 
 power to enumerate all the excellent societies in 
 which this truly remarkable and yet always humble 
 man, is interested, and the interests of which he does 
 much to advance. I have been told there is scarcely 
 a day in the year that he does not give more or less 
 time to earnest and often enthusiastic labor in their 
 behalf. He is unquestionably the foremost philan- 
 thropist of his age and country, and there can be no 
 higher compliment than the world wide recognition 
 of the fact. 
 
 It has been my privilege to enjoy several interviews 
 
 with his lordship, and to find him an acute observer 
 
 of men and things, a sagacious and persevering 
 
 reformer, and a warm friend of America and the 
 
 Americans. At the annual meeting of the " Protes- 
 
 4* 
 
82 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 tant Alliance" of which, he is president, I was solicited 
 to speak for the new world in place of my absent and 
 venerated friend, Dr. Baird, and shall ever gratefully 
 remember the exceedingly cordial welcome and 
 introduction of his lordship. 
 
 Lord Shaftesbury is the son-in-law of Lord Palmer- 
 ston, and was till within a few years past known as 
 Lord Ashley. His personal appearance is dignified 
 and noble, A pleasant smile ever glistens upon his 
 cheek. His voice is smooth and distinct, and though 
 not distinguished for oratorical perfection, he possesses 
 the happy faculty of being ready to speak, and to 
 speak to the pointy at the shortest notice ; but his 
 speeches are never protracted or tedious. In the 
 House of Lords his course has always been straight 
 forward, and fearless. While less brilliant in debate 
 than many of his associates, his amiable and sincere 
 disposition, his consistent and constant opposition to 
 the wrong, and his general good sense, have com- 
 bined to secure him great influence and esteem. In 
 his religious views he is apparently above sectarian 
 prejudice, and mingles as freely with, and is as great- 
 ly esteemed by the dissenters, as the Churchmen. JSTo 
 public man was ever more widely beloved, or more 
 worthily. 
 
 The Eagged School Union now embraces upwards 
 of an hundred efficient schools in operation in Lon- 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 83 
 
 don alone. Of these,* I have visited a large number, 
 but shall refer to only one or two, and indeed they 
 are characteristic of the whole. Perhaps the most 
 prominent, certainly the most successful, is that in 
 Field Lane, a by-street near Holborn-Hill, and a 
 short walk from St. Paul's, This school has attached 
 to it, as several other schools now have, a night refuge 
 for the utterly destitute— a place where any poor 
 outcast, old or young, black or white, may secure a 
 night's lodging free of all expense, and to this impor- 
 tant department I will first refer. For a long period 
 it was a source of the deepest and most painful regret, 
 that after dismissal from reading the Bible at Field 
 Lane, many of the scholars — boys, youths, men — 
 were turned back into the streets to sleep in dry 
 arches, sheds, on door-steps, or wander shelterless 
 about, a prey to hunger and uncurbed desperation. 
 The knowledge also that a vast number of persons 
 were daily released from the metropolitan prisons, 
 who had expiated the violated laws of the country 
 by limited imprisonment, for whom no provision was 
 ma( ie— outcasts without character and without hope 
 of finding food or shelter, except by the commission 
 of some offence, through which they might be taken 
 
 * The total sum raised by the various Schools and Refuges in the year 1858 
 exceeded £28,000, and the whole income of the Union gives the sum of £33,240 
 raised for Ragged Schools during the year. 
 
84 st. paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 back to tlieir prison home — induced the committee to 
 cause these and similar facts to be brought under the 
 notice of the Earl of Shaftesbury, when his lordship 
 at once, through the munificence of a benevolent 
 lady, caused the Eefuge for the Destitute to be opened 
 in May, 1851, and to be enlarged at the close of the 
 same year. The Eefuge can now sleep 100 hundred 
 persons nightly — eacli person having a separate berth 
 and warm rug : an excellent lavatory, together with 
 hot and cold baths, A 6-oz loaf pf bread is given to 
 each inmate night and morning, A Christian master 
 takes the superintendence, who does not leave his 
 post after the inmates assemble, till their dismissal. 
 The scriptures are read night and morning, to the 
 practice of which very great importance is attached, 
 it being believed that the word of God has a salutary 
 influence upon the human soul, stifling the bad pas- 
 sions of men, awakening the recollection of that pres- 
 ence, under whose eye we live, amidst the struggles 
 and casualties of chequered existence. 
 
 This Eefuge has become a moral filtering machine 
 for all the different Eefuges of London, and receives 
 many whom all the others reject. Eegarded physi- 
 cally or morally, its introduction has proved a great 
 blessing to a large class of miserable outcasts, who 
 have far too long been neglected. The warmest expec- 
 tations as to its utility have been abundantly realized. 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 85 
 
 It lias proved a comfort and a real refuge to thou- 
 sands who have sought its shelter. It is systemati- 
 cally opposed to vagrancy. Indoctrinated by the 
 word of God, all the inmates ar$ carefully taught to 
 rely upon the faculties with which they have been 
 endowed by a merciful Creator as responsible agents 
 for their proper use. While sheltered from cold and 
 exposure, no luxury is provided for the night beyond 
 a boarded berth and a rug. A small loaf and water 
 are not strong inducements to deter the idle from 
 work. The periodical reading of the Bible, the reg- . 
 ularity of prayer, the washing night and morning, 
 the baths, the -cleansing of the Eefuge by the inmates, 
 the strict discipline enforced, the necessity of attend- 
 ing the Bible and Secular Classes in order to keep 
 their ticket — these things are not attractions for the 
 lazy and the vagabond ! but placed before the mind 
 under the affectionate interest of the teachers of the 
 Bible Classes, they are duly appreciated, and without 
 this Christian influence the Eefuge would have been 
 a failure. In the majority of instances the Eefuge 
 has been a great boon in sheltering, rescuing, and 
 assisting many really destitute fellow-creatures ; it 
 has been the means of distributing imperishable les- 
 sons of hope to hundreds, whose degradation had 
 reduced them to despair.* 
 
 * At an Industrial Exhibition of the London Reformatory Institutions, 
 held in June, 1856, the following were given as a few of the practical results of 
 
86 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 A few extracts from the diary, most carefully kept 
 by the Eefuge Master, in which the history of the 
 inmates is daguerreotyped, will serve to show that, in 
 real life, " fact is much stranger than fiction :" — ' 
 
 u spf Yf. } aged 28, whose father was a soldier, was brought up at the Duke 
 of York's School. After he left it, he lived at a grocer's, a butcher's, and 
 lastly at a cheesemonger's as porter. In this situation he amassed £15. 
 Having this sum by him, he became proud and. independent, and if told to do 
 a job which did not suit him, he refused, and his employer discharged him in 
 consequence. Reduced to extremities, he sought lodgings in Unions, etc. 
 About four years ago two women were executed at Chelmsford, when he and 
 a friend purchased ajquantity of papers, purporting to contain their last dying 
 speech and confession, which had been printed several days before. He then 
 lived by the precarious trade of the mendicant. After being imprisoned at 
 Kingston for begging, he was placed in the stocks in a village in Surrey for the 
 same oifence. On one occasion while in Winchester, being rendered desperate 
 by cold and hunger, he with a companion entered a baker's shop and asked for 
 a half-quartern loaf. He broke the loaf in two, giving half to his friend. The 
 mistress said, 'You have not paid me.' To which he replied, 'We cannot.' 
 A policeman was sent for, who said, ' Why did you take it?' * Because we were 
 hungry,' was the answer. 'But why did you not take a smaller one?' 
 ' Because it would not fill us,' he replied. They were then marched out of the 
 town. On reaching Salisbury, they determined to get into prison, and with 
 that view each of them broke a lamp. As no one saw them do it, they gave 
 information against themselves ." 
 
 W. is now chief monitor ; and during the absence 
 of the Refuge Master for two weeks, he, with two 
 others, had charge of the Eefuge, and effectually pre- 
 served discipline during that period. 
 
 the Field Lane Refuge, from its opening to that date: "Strangers admitted 
 since May, 1851, 5,261 ; admitted into the Refuge by ticket, 126,575 (average 
 71 per night since the opening) ; obtained imployment, 551 ; restored to friends, 
 117 , emigrated, 14 ; enlisted, 46 ; admitted into permanent Reformatories, 256. 
 Distributed ?>44,2fi7 fi-oz. loaves of bread. 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 87 
 
 The following is an amusing instance of perse- 
 verance : — 
 
 " R. W., aged 18. He went to the Union to get a night's lodging. He was 
 refused admittance by the porter. Upon this he began knocking with all his 
 might, using both knockers at the same time. The porter secured these, when 
 he searched till he found a bell-handle, and made a tremendous ringing. The 
 porter put an end to this nuisance by stuffing something into the bell. But as 
 W. was not to be daunted, he took a large stone in each hand, with which he 
 hammered so loud that the porter surrendered at discretion, saying, < Come in, 
 for I see you will let me have no peace all night. f " 
 
 Many grateful letters are yearly received from 
 those who have enjoyed the benefits of the institution. 
 Recently one came from a young man who had 
 emigrated to New- York, in which he gives a graphic 
 picture of the Five Points, the Field Lane of the 
 American London. The Committee often encourage 
 Emigration as being more likely to result in the 
 future well being of the youths, especially where a 
 career of crime has been embraced, and bad compan- 
 ions are known to watch for any tendency to relapse, 
 the only possible safety consists in emigration. I may 
 here remark that a peculiar characteristic of the 
 Refuge is, that it provides a home for the outcast after 
 he leaves its immediate privileges, and provides 
 shelter, food, and education, industrial and religious, 
 for several years, until a great process has been com- 
 pleted. 
 
 The day schools, the secular and religious evening 
 
88 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 classes for both youths and adults, the industrial 
 classes, the Bible Schools, and the Woman's Bible 
 class, all work admirably under the patient and wise 
 supervision of the honorary superintendent, Mr. 
 Kobert Mountstephen, and the honorary secretary, 
 Mr. Samuel Tawell, to both of whom I am under 
 many obligations for much courteous attention on all 
 my visits to Field Lane. In the day schools, boys, 
 girls, and infants are trained by experienced teachers, 
 and as they are expressly intended for the children of 
 destitute or profligate parents every precaution is 
 taken to exclude others. By means -of an active 
 school missionary who is constantly on the alert, the 
 superintendent is enabled to know the temporal con- 
 dition of every applicant for admission. Hence it is 
 that the offspring of scavengers, costermongers, 
 sweeps, match-sellers, street minstrels and others 
 whose callings none but the police could adequately 
 describe, form the staple of the school. The number 
 on the books is about 300 with an average attendance 
 of 180. The classes for youths and adults on Monday 
 and Thursday evenings, are devoted to the secular 
 instruction of the inmates of the Eefuge, and other 
 lads and men, who are employed during the day. 
 The average attendance is nearly an hundred. Of 
 the industrial classes, the tailoring and shoe-making 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 89 
 
 pasters report the average attendance is about 65 
 boys and men. 
 
 A new feature of the institution is the " Ragged 
 Church," established in the hope of securing the 
 preaching of the gospel to many who would otherwise 
 never be brought under its influence. 
 
 During the past year the service held on Lord's 
 day morning, has been conducted with undiminished 
 success. The average attendance for the first quarter 
 of this year reached 341. On several occasions 
 upwards of 400 persons have been present. At least 
 one-half of the congregation consists of females ; not a 
 few of these are aged women; most of them are 
 mothers ; and the lives of too many supply painful 
 evidence that sin is often judged by God even in this 
 world. 
 
 Again it is pleasing to find that though the con- 
 gregation continually changes, yet that upwards of 
 one-third are regular attendants. This renewal in the 
 elements of the congregation renders the service 
 peculiarly solemn. It cannot be doubted that nearly 
 10,000 souls heard the Gospel proclaimed in this Rag- 
 ged Church during the past year. 
 
 As a whole the Field Lane Ragged School with its 
 many adjuncts is at once a remarkable and emi-- 
 nently useful institution. Little wonder that Lord 
 Shaftesbury or any other enlightened statesman is 
 
90 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ready to detect in its salutary influences much of 
 hope for the uplifting of the illiterate and virtueless 
 the bane of the metropolis. Little wonder that the 
 press is ready to acknowledge their efficiency in reliev- 
 ing the police and magistrates of much of their labor, 
 and materially lessening the demoralization hitherto 
 characterizing such neighborhoods as Field Lane.* 
 
 The average annual outlay for the carrying on 
 of the Field Lane School is about £1,000, most of 
 which is raised by donations and special appeals. 
 The Teachers are ardently interested in their work 
 and win many friends to it by their untiring zeal. I 
 have attended several of their meetings and always to 
 enjoy them. During the reading of the reports and 
 discussions the ladies employ themselves in knitting, 
 sewing or otherwise working for the benefit of the 
 
 * The London Times recently devoted a leader to this valuable institution. It 
 appears that during the year (1859) 30,302 lodgings have been supplied to 6,786 
 men and boys, who have received 101,193 either six or eight ounce loaves of 
 bread. At the same time 840 women have been admitted during the year, to 
 whom have been supplied 10,028 lodgings, averaging eleven nights' shelter to 
 each person, by whom 14,755 loaves have been consumed. The applicants in the 
 winter months are admitted at five o'clock p.m., and in the summer months 
 at seven o'clock. They obtain shelter for the night, a piece of bread, and a cup 
 of coffee upon admission ; in the morning only bread and water . On the whole , 
 10,000 persons annually participate in the advantages of this Institution, and 
 1,222 of the most folorn and wretched creatures in London were last year 
 taken from the streets and placed in a position where they might earn their 
 own bread, and all this at the cost of 3s. 6d. per head per annum. Out of 
 upwards of 7,000L received in consequence of the Times appeal last year, the 
 Committee have funded 5,500Z. for the permanent relief of the homeless. 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 91 
 
 more destitute children, and each meeting is enlivened 
 by the passing of tea and well spread bread. There 
 is a sympathy and fellowship among all interested in 
 the enterprise which does much to insure its success. 
 I have thus far omitted to speak of the appearance 
 of the lads and adults attending the institution, for it 
 is not confined to persons of any age. Those who are 
 only present on Sunday are less forlorn in their 
 appearance than those who frequent the night refuge. 
 These latter are often indescribably wretched, indeed 
 in some of the vacant faces it is hard to trace the 
 lineaments of humanity. So near an approach to the 
 brute creation is scarcely to be found among the low- 
 est and vilest population of America. With a 
 depraved and debauched ancestry for many genera- 
 tions, these unfortunate creatures have all the rude- 
 ness and ignorance of the savage, with far more of 
 downright stupidity and inertia. Many of them 
 appear to have received their first washing and comb- 
 ing in the lavatories of the refuge. And it is only by 
 the severest discipline that when they first enter they 
 are kept decently clean and in any approach to order. 
 It requires a deal of patience and godliness to treat 
 with such degraded objects, and yet they above all 
 others demand our sympathy and care. It is matter 
 for congratulation that already the agency of the Lon- 
 don Ragged Schools and Refuges has accomplished so 
 
92 ST. PATTl/s TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 much for this large and literally abject class,* and 
 undoubtedly much more may be accomplished for 
 their improvement if the Committees, Superintend- 
 ents, and teachers, continue to labor with the same 
 self-denial and earnestness. Upon this latter charac- 
 teristic of the teacher much depends. As Lord 
 Shaftesbury has well observed : " He must have great 
 zeal, very great zeal ; his heart must be in the work. 
 The work must be his meat and drink, it must be al- 
 most his life's blood ; if he be not so, depend upon it 
 lie never does as he ought with the children." 
 
 In the various schools under the auspices of the 
 Union, about two thousand voluntary teachersf give 
 themselves to a most difficult task, which — in the out- 
 set at least, dealing with the wildest of both sexes — 
 implies and involves great self-denial and moral cou- 
 rage. 
 
 Prizes are annually awarded to boys or girls over 
 twelve and under seventeen years of age, who having 
 been six months in a Ragged School, have since been 
 
 * At a recent annual meeting of one of the Refuges, Lord Shaftesbury 
 said : 
 
 " Refuges and Ragged-schools had done more to humanize and civilize the 
 people than any Institution that ever was invented, and if they persevered in 
 developing their operations, he believed that in five years they would be the 
 means of doing away with every vestige of vagrancy that demoralized and dis- 
 graced the metropolis at the present time." 
 
 f Now (1860) nearly three thousand. 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 93 
 
 in situations for twelve months with satisfaction to 
 their employers. It is a proof of the value of this 
 movement to note that the recipients of such prizes 
 increase in number each year. In 1853, they were 
 144 ; in 1854, they were 327 ; in 1855, 366.* 
 
 Besides the Ragged and industrial Schools proper, 
 there are various excellent institutions existing in all 
 parts of London, for the bettering of the youth. 
 Many of them are wholly supported by private munifi- 
 cence, and often by the members of a single wealthy 
 family. An example worthy the emulation of the 
 well-meaning millionaires of JSTew York, many of 
 whom if we may judge from their misplaced 
 benevolence, have yet to learn, 
 
 " The use of riches in discretion lies." 
 
 One of these London charities, a model in its way, 
 was lately established chiefly through the instrumen- 
 tality of Messrs. Truman, Hanbury & Co., the emi- 
 nent brewers of Spitalfields. This institution, located 
 in Commercial Street, Whitechapel, in a neighbor- 
 hood principally occupied by thieves and vagrants, is 
 called " The Boys 5 Kefuge," and is intended for the 
 prevention of crime. The boys admitted are either 
 friendless orphans, or the children of parents so 
 depraved as to make it absolutely essential that they 
 
 * In 1859, they were 578. 
 
94 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 should be removed from them. The mere fact of a 
 boy having been convicted does not necessarily ex- 
 clude him, for it is felt that many may have been led 
 into crime, either from sheer starvation or from the 
 baneful influence of bad example ; but conviction is 
 * not, as in other institutions, a sine qua non. On the 
 contrary the fact of a boy having been in prison is a 
 reason for investigating his history, in order to dis- 
 cover whether or not he has voluntarily adopted 
 criminal courses and become thoroughly depraved ; 
 in which case he is not admitted, other institutions 
 providing for such cases. A few examples will 
 serve to show the nature of the classes from amongst 
 whom the boys already admitted have been taken. 
 The narratives have in some instances been taken 
 from their own lips ; in others they have been furnish- 
 ed by City Missionaries. 
 
 " S. Gr. , aged 14, a native of Oxfordshire ; an orphan. Both his parents died 
 about two years and a half ago, when he and his little brother were left entirely- 
 destitute. After trying unsuccessfully to get work in their native town, they 
 walked up to London. On arriving there they lost each other, and never met 
 again. S . has lived in the streets for upwards of two years, subsisting by beg- 
 ging, getting occasional employment at the markets, &c, sleeping in passages 
 or wherever he could find shelter. He was often tempted to steal, ' but never 
 had pluck enough to do it.' S. Gr. says his father was a drunkard; but his 
 mother was a good woman, very kind to him, and who used to pray with him and 
 his or other every evening before going to bed. He wept bitterly when speaking of her 
 and of his lost brother. So great had been his sufferings, that almost immedi- 
 ately on his being admitted into the 'Refuge' he was seized with fever and had to 
 be removed to St. Thomas' Hospital, where he speedily gained the good opinion 
 of the officials by his patience and good conduct. " 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 95 
 
 J. W., aged 12 years ; father and mother both alive, and subsisting by beg- 
 ging. They are both drunkards, and grossly immoral. His two sisters, at the 
 almost incredibly early ages of 14 and 17, are living in sin. A Missionary, 
 who knew the family for several years, thus describes their present dwelling :— 
 * They were in a damp underground kitchen, to which I had to grope my way 
 in the dark ; and as there was a grating over the window, with articles of sale 
 put upon it for exposure, the light was so excluded that on first entering it 
 was impossible to discover the state of the room. There were in the room two 
 old broken chairs, a few broken plates, and some filthy rags in a corner on 
 which was lying a dog, but on which a dog of mine should not sleep ; and I 
 believe this constituted the whole of their household furniture. In this miser- 
 able den, however,' says the missionary, ' I was frequently assured that, after 
 nine o'clock in the evening, the family was usually feasting, not only upon 
 the best necessary food, but also upon positive luxuries.' No share of these 
 luxuries, however, fell to poor J.'s lot. He was left entirely to his own 
 resources, and was often reduced to starvation." 
 
 " W. B., aged 14 ; an orphan. His mother died when he was a child ; and 
 his father, who was very kind and used to take him to church regularly, mar- 
 ried again. Stepmother married again after his father's death, and she and her 
 second husband both became drunkards. They used W. very harshly, and 
 ultimately deserted him. For about a month he slept under butchers' blocks ; 
 was taken into the employment of a Merry Andrew, but was dismissed because 
 he could not bend his back ; fell into the hands of a band of strolling gipsies 
 with whom he wandered about for nearly three months ; found his way into 
 Field Lane Refuge, and earned his living by holding horses, &c." 
 
 " W. G. , aged 13. Mother dead, and father a drunkard. In consequence o 
 ill treatment, he left his father and earned his living in the streets ; sleeping 
 where he could find shelter. Slept for about six weeks in some wagons in 
 Shoreditch. About two years ago he was found guilty of stealing some horse- 
 hair, and imprisoned." 
 
 These extracts will sufficiently show that the class 
 of boys who are received into the Refuge are exposed 
 to influences of such a character that they cannot fail 
 to become criminal unless rescued from them ; and 
 the intention of the Institution is to afford an opportu- 
 
96 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 nity of rising above their degraded condition to such 
 as really have a desire to do so. In order to test the 
 sincerity of applicants, and prevent depraved and cor- 
 rupted boys from becoming inmates, those who apply 
 are subjected to a probation. They are sent at first to a 
 Dormitory in Colchester Street, established by the 
 Rev, Mr, Champneys, Rector of Whitechapel, where 
 they have to sleep on the boards. They come to the 
 " Boys' Refuge " during the day, and while on pro- 
 bation are employed in scrubbing, chopping wood, or 
 other household work. They are allowed breakfast 
 and supper ; but if they work steadily, they have 
 dinner also, and are made to understand that the 
 period of their probation depends entirely on their 
 own conduct. This simple method is found to answer 
 the purpose. The boys who are willing to do well, 
 get through their probation with ease ; while the lazy 
 vagrant or criminal, commonly walk off in the course 
 of a few days, of their own accord. So large a pro- 
 portion as one-fourth of the entire number of appli- 
 cants have already withdrawn themselves and re- 
 turned to the streets. And here a question presents 
 itself : Is it right that boys who have had the oppor- 
 tunity of doing well should be allowed thus to ruin 
 themselves and become pests to society ? Their doing 
 so is very frequently the result of mere waywardness 
 and impatience of control; and surely the law ought 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 97 
 
 to interfere and compel them for their own 
 good and tlie good of the country to remain 
 steady. 
 
 As soon as a boy is admitted, he is put to a trade ; 
 the stouter boys being set to carpentering, while the 
 lesser ones are made tailors or shoemakers. The 
 industrial department has been placed upon a footing 
 of considerable efficiency ; none but first-class trades- 
 men being employed, and only a small number of 
 boys are placed under one man ; and although the 
 Institution is but of yesterday, already the advantages 
 of the system are beginning to develope themselves. 
 Thanks to the zealous endeavors of the excellent 
 tradesmen who have been appointed, the boys are 
 making such rapid proficiency in their several trades, 
 that at no distant date every one of these branches 
 seems likely to become self-supporting, or even remu- 
 nerative. A part of every day is also devoted to the 
 secular education of the boys; but while due care is 
 taken to impart to them such an amount of knowledge 
 as may fit them for taking their places as useful 
 members of society, the greatest attention is paid to 
 their moral training. 
 
 It would be indeed a grievous mistake to cultivate 
 
 the hand and head, and neglect the heart. Now the 
 
 true key to the human heart is kindness ; but as this 
 
 can be exercised by women better than by men, 
 
 5 
 
98 st. paul's to st. sofhia. 
 
 female influence has been brought to bear upon the 
 inmates. While it is the special duty of the Gover- 
 nor to look after the moral well being of the boys, a 
 Matron has also been appointed, to assist him, and 
 to superintend the household affairs of the Institution. 
 The results have been of a very gratifying character. 
 The authority and influence of both have thus been 
 blended together ; and through their united efforts 
 the rugged nature and rough habits of the boys are 
 gradually being moulded and softened, so that com- 
 paratively little difficulty has been experienced in 
 managing them. 
 
 But all this agency would be exerted in vain, and 
 the boys, although reduced to outward obedience, 
 might remain callous and indifferent to everything 
 that is good, without Divine aid. They, therefore, 
 have been placed under the ministry of the Rev. 
 Hugh Allen, of St. Jude's, Whitechapel, who kindly 
 visits the Institution regularly, to give them more 
 personal instruction ; and constant endeavors are made 
 to impress their minds with a belief in the reality of 
 divine things. 
 
 Such is a brief outline of the character and opera- 
 tions of the " Boys' Eefuge." The Institution com- 
 menced with two boys, and there are now upwards 
 of 30. That number have been removed from 
 wretchedness and degradation, and placed within the 
 
RAGGED SCHOOLS. 99 
 
 influence of Christian kindness and comparative 
 comfort. If funds sufficient be obtained, more than 
 
 four times the number may be received* I can only 
 imagine one answer to that question. I cannot con- 
 ceive it possible that the London public, now that 
 their attention has of late years been so fully drawn 
 to the subject of juvenile delinquency and destitu- 
 tion, can allow an Institution like the " Boys' Refuge 5 ' 
 to languish for want of support. The political econ- 
 omist, the philanthropist, the Christian, although dif- 
 fering perhaps on other subjects, may all unite in 
 supporting it, for it meets the views of all. It ap- 
 peals to the political economist, because it effects a 
 saving of public money, prevention being cheaper 
 than cure ; to the philanthropist, inasmuch as it les- 
 sens the amount of human misery ; and it appeals 
 most powerfully to the Christian, because its main 
 
 . design is to bring the inmates to that blessed Saviour 
 who said, " Suffer little children to come unto me, 
 and forbid them not." Every consideration demands 
 that we should be up and doing on behalf of our 
 sunken population. Either we must elevate them 
 or descend to their level ; for it is impossible that a 
 nation can flourish while vice is festering at the base 
 of the social system. We might as well expect a 
 plant to thrive with a worm at the root. 
 
100 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 The Institution is open daily to the inspec- 
 tion of all those who feel an interest in its 
 object. 
 
 TIME TABLE. 
 
 6 to 8 a.m Cleaning the Dormitories, &c. 
 
 8 " 8^ " Breakfast. 
 
 8)£ " 9 " Prayer, Scripture Reading, and Singing. 
 
 9 " 11 " ^.... Secular Instruction, Reading, Writing, &c. 
 
 11 " 1 p . m Industrial Employment. 
 
 1 " 2 " .....Dinner and Play. 
 
 2 "4 " Industrial Employment. 
 
 4 « 4K rt Play- 
 
 4K * * 6 " • Industrial Employment. 
 
 6 " 6>£ " Supper. 
 
 G% " %%" Secular Instruction, Reading, Writing, &c 
 
 %% " 9 " Evening Worship. 
 
 On Sundays the boys attend divine service morn- 
 ing and evening, at St. Jude's Church : during the 
 remainder of the day they receive religious instruction 
 from voluntary teachers. 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 
 
 " Clean your honor's shoes ?" was for a long time 
 prior to the beginning of the present century, a 
 familiar cry in the streets of London, but about the 
 year 1820, with the improvement in the side walks 
 and street pavement, the shoe-blacks reluctantly 
 retired to private life, thinking undoubtedly that, 
 like Othello, they had utterly lost their occupation. 
 The " last of the Mohicans" is said to have been a 
 negro, who, under the new order of things murmur- 
 ingly retired to the work-house to end his poorly 
 requited days. But with the high-noon of the century 
 and the Crystal Palace, came many wondrous things, 
 not the least in the long catalogue, the revival of the 
 shoe-blacks. The credit of the restoration to society of 
 a class of humble artizans so eminently useful, even 
 in a cleanly city, belongs to my versatile and excel- 
 lent friend John Macgregor, Esq., of the Temple, who 
 in his devotion to many of the important charities of 
 (101) 
 
102 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the metropolis, ranks as a second Shaftesbury, and 
 enjoys an enviable reputation, as a most intelligent 
 and untiring public benefactor. 
 
 It occurred to Mr. Macgregor, that on the opening 
 of the Hyde Park palace, (in the summer of 1851,) 
 London would be thronged with foreigners in attend- 
 ance at the great exhibition, many of whom were 
 accustomed in their own countries to have their shoes 
 cleaned in the streets, (such has long been the prac- 
 tice in continental cities,) and would be pleased to 
 find such accommodation in London. And some 
 London folks might like it, besides many poor boys 
 might earn an honest penny thereby. But the pro- 
 ject did not meet general favor, and but for Mr. 
 Macgregor's dauntless perseverance would probably 
 have been abandoned. Five boys picked from the 
 ragged schools, and carefully instructed in the " art 
 of polishing," were sent out early in April to different 
 parts of the metropolis. How the people stared at 
 the one that first appeared in Trafalgar Square, and 
 how they crowded around Mr. Macgregor when he 
 put his foot upon the box to give him a fair start ; 
 but the shoe-blacks that very day obtained a footing 
 in London. There were on an average about twenty- 
 five boys constantly employed during the Exhibition 
 season, and they cleaned 101,000 pairs of boots and 
 bhoes, for which the public paid them over £500. 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 103 
 
 Kind nods of approbation were bestowed upon the 
 industrious and polite shoe-blacks, by all classes of 
 the people, and many a word of encouragement 
 spoken to cheer their hearts. Shop-keepers often 
 took a fancy to them, and gave them dinners. Ladies 
 feasted them in their houses, and called them to 
 their carriage windows to give them a sixpence, and 
 old gentlemen asked them many strange questions, 
 and told them they would all become Lord Mayors. 
 Boots and shoes were regularly brought out from 
 private houses to be cleaned, and sometimes large 
 establishments employed the boys ; in one instance 
 several hundred pairs of shoes had to be cleaned in a 
 hurry, and a cab-load of the lads went to do the work. 
 A great deal of their success came from the knowl- 
 edge of the good auspices under which they were sent 
 forth to their humble yet honorable employment, and 
 from the honest, courteous and industrious habits of 
 the lads themselves. Once a half-crown was given 
 by mistake for a penny, the regular fee, but the boy 
 quickly ran after the gentleman and returned it. 
 Once a sovereign accidentally slipped into a boy's 
 hands between two coppers, but the honest little fellow 
 after searching some hours discovered who had given it 
 him, and was rewarded for his trouble by a simple 
 " thank you." 
 The first company of shoe-blacks wore red-jackets, 
 
104 ST. PAULAS TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 and were mainly employed in the city proper, but 
 the business proved so encouraging that there are 
 now yellow and blue jacket brigades or societies, and 
 the well behaved lads are to be found in every quarter 
 of the metropolis ; indeed they now have positions 
 regularly assigned them by the police authorities, and 
 are protected from interference by idlers and others 
 who have heretofore somewhat troubled them. Each 
 boy bears on his breast, two badges of cloth, on one of 
 which the words " Sagged School Shoe-Black Soci- 
 ety," and on the other, his distinctive letter or number 
 are worked in white glass beads by the girls of one of 
 the Refuges. The box on which the foot of the 
 customer rests while his boot is receiving its polish, 
 and the mat on which the shoe-black kneels, are made 
 by the boys of the Grotto Passage Refuge — thus 
 the outcasts gathered in the refuges are being 
 taught to make themselves very useful. 
 
 I have frequently been in attendance at the office 
 of the red brigade, York place, Strand, at half after 
 six o'clock, the hour the lads return from their day's 
 toil. Each boy marches in with orderly step, deposits 
 his box, blacking, brushes and mat, puts his uniform 
 in a bag provided for the purpose, and counts his 
 receipts in presence of the superintendent. A daily 
 account is kept with each lad, and the money is 
 applied upon the following system: sixpence is 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 105 
 
 returned to the boy as his allowance : the remainder 
 is divided into three equal parts; one third part 
 is paid to the boy immediately, together with the 
 sixpence ; one third part is retained by the Society 
 to meet the salary of the superintendent, and other 
 expenses, and the residue (including odd money,) is 
 paid to a fund which is reserved as a " bank" for the 
 boy's own benefit* The weather and the season of 
 the year make a great difference in the receipts of the 
 boys ; warm sunny days, after rain, are the most auspi- 
 cious for them ; and, in general, fine weather is more 
 profitable than wet. A public holiday always yields 
 large returns. The largest sum yet earned by any 
 boy in one day is about twelve shillings sterling, for 
 which at the established fee of a penny per pair, he 
 must of course have blacked one hundred and forty 
 four pairs of boots or shoes — a pretty good day's work. 
 The different stations occupied by the boys were soon 
 found to bear very different values. Originally they 
 were all occupied by all the boys in succession ; but 
 subsequently the stations were divided into three 
 classes. The boys were also classed in three divisions, 
 
 * In other words, each boy carries home as his day's wages, eightpence out of 
 the first shilling which he earns, and fourpence out of every other shilling. Of 
 the remainder twopence out of the first shilling, and fourpence out of every 
 other is retained by the society ; and an equal sum, together with any odd 
 pence not divisible by three , is paid unto the boys' bank . Some of the lads have 
 £40 and £50 in bank. 
 
 5# 
 
106 st. paul ? s to st. sophia* 
 
 corresponding to the divisions of the stations ; and 
 each boy is confined to the stations in his own divis- 
 ion, which he occupies in rotation. "When a boy 
 enters the society he joins the third division, but he is 
 quickly promoted to a higher rank if his conduct is 
 good. When a boy rises to the second division he 
 pays 2s. 6d. and when advanced to the first 5s. from 
 his bank to the funds of the society. This tax was 
 set on foot with a view to make the societies more 
 self-supporting and is willingly submitted to by the 
 boys, to whom promotion is an object of eager emu- 
 lation. 
 
 The punishments for misconduct usually adopted 
 are : — 
 
 1. Fines* for late hours, absence, or other misbe- 
 haviour. 
 
 2. Degradation from one division to a lower, either 
 permanently or for a limited period. 
 
 3. Suspension from work for a fixed time. 
 
 On the other hand, the rewards consist of prizes in 
 money, medals, and promotions, for those whose 
 monthly earnings are the largest. 
 
 Having rendered their accounts, the lads essay to 
 the wash-room, where as may well be presumed, the 
 scouring is long and vigorous ere they come forth suffi- 
 
 • The money received for fines is reserved as a relief fund for those who 
 are ill. 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 107 
 
 ciently clean to be admitted to the supper department, 
 where those who have no inviting homes to repair to 
 are wont to refresh themselves. It w r ould be hard to 
 find a more hilarious or apparently happy company 
 of youngsters than gather every evening around the 
 well spread supper tables. Each lad pays for what 
 he has, and with an air of amusing independence. On 
 one or two evenings in the week the whole brigade is 
 detained at the rooms for a series of lessons in read- 
 ing, singing, etc., interspersed with addresses from the 
 Committee and other friends. 
 
 I have on several occasions spoken to the lads, and 
 always remarked their excellent attention. For the 
 bringing up, or want of bringing up most of them 
 have had, tlleir deportment and intelligence is quite 
 surprising. There can be little doubt that the instruc- 
 tion given them at the Ragged Schools from Sabbath 
 to Sabbath, which they are obliged to regularly attend 
 in order to retain their standing in the brigade, is of 
 the happiest character, inculcating not only principles 
 of honor, virtue and integrity, but a taste for general 
 knowledge scarcely to be expected in a class hitherto 
 so degraded and un cared for. 
 
 Many amusing incidents are told of the ready wit 
 of the lads. An Irishman paying one of them with 
 rudeness, the urchin drily said — " All the polish you 
 have is on your boots, and I gave it to yon." A. gen- 
 
108 
 
 SOPHIA. 
 
 tleman asked one of the boys, " How do the Commit- 
 tee know that you bring in all your earnings ?" " Oh 
 sir," he answered, " they always leave that to our 
 honorP 
 
 The Committees directing the brigades are usually 
 composed of barristers, merchants and other gentle- 
 men of means, who, while they employ the strictest dis- 
 cipline, devise every ingenious and liberal method to 
 please and benefit the lads. Out-of-town treats 
 are given every summer, and entertainments are not 
 unfrequently provided at the different city institu- 
 tions. A few days since, Mr. Macgregor invited 
 me to accompany the " Red-Coats " to the Zoological 
 Gardens, Regent's Park, where they had been invited 
 by the Directors. I was glad to embrace the oppor- 
 tunity to see how a parcel of boys, picked up from 
 the lowest strata of London life, and heretofore en- 
 tirely unacquainted with the Gardens, would conduct 
 themselves. The society marched from their rooms at 
 an early hour in the afternoon. Mr. Macgregor and 
 myself took a 'buss at a later hour, and found the 
 youngsters all in ecstasy amid the lions and tigers, the 
 monkeys and the orang-outangs. The behaviour of 
 the lads throughout was highly creditable, and the 
 interest manifested by many of them in the peculi- 
 arities of the animals, would have done honor to 
 more refined minds. 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 109 
 
 The distinguished hippopotamus, over which Mr, 
 Punch has made so much sport, would not conde- 
 scend to come out of his bath, notwithstanding the 
 reiterated invitations of the keeper and swarms of 
 visitors. The old fellow, who has grown to a gigan- 
 tic size, would adroitly swim about, with his mouth 
 just far enough above the water to catch every parti- 
 cle of biscuit or cake that might be thrown him. 
 One of the shoe-blacks was put near, in hope that his 
 red shirt might induce old hippo to come out ; but 
 it was in vain : he w x ould not be persuaded. 
 
 The collection of animals of the deer species at 
 the gardens is most superb. Specimens of almost 
 every known variety of the light and graceful race 
 may be found. The rhinoceros, the giraffes, the 
 bears, are all of the choicest kind. The monkeys 
 have a large mansion to themselves, and a curious 
 crew they are. The room is kept warm, and as com- 
 fortable as a parlor. The birds and water-fowl are 
 magnificent ; the reptiles all that reptiles could be. 
 
 At four o'clock the lions were to be fed. For an 
 hour before that time, every available spot near the 
 lion cages was occupied by hundreds of men, women 
 and children, waiting for the " feeding." The pro- 
 prietors of the Gardens have actually erected a mar- 
 ble platform immediately opposite the dens, from 
 which the " very best view " can be had. Anxious 
 
110 st. paul ? s to st. sophia. 
 
 to have a sight at the four-legged beef-eaters, I 
 wedged my way in at the appointed time. The 
 keeper soon made his appearance with a huge stick ; 
 an assistant carried a tub of joints. For some cause or 
 other, the brutes did not appear so savage as usual, and 
 loud and long were the lamentations of the lookers 
 on, at the lack of growls, yells, and all those vocifer- 
 ations which lions are wont to indulge in when hun- 
 gry and put into possession of liberal chunks of un- 
 cooked beef. I could hardly sympathize with those 
 who were so anxious to see the brutes display their 
 rudeness. 
 
 The shoe-blacks were permitted to take a ride on 
 the elephant, to their great delight. Their dashing 
 shirts gave them an odd appearance, as, mounted upon 
 the huge fellow, they rode through the shaded paths 
 of the gardens, and their visit was in every respect 
 eminently satisfactory. 
 
 " Once a shoe-black always a shoe-black," is by no 
 means the motto of the Committees. They desire 
 to make the occupation a stepping-stone to some 
 higher and permanent employ, and so soon as the 
 lads give evidence of established good habits, they 
 use their best endeavors to obtain positions for them, 
 in such trades or professions as they may desire. 
 Many of the lads go to the country, and many emi- 
 grate to America and. Australia. The outfit of ome 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. Ill 
 
 enterprising little fellow was lately provided at the 
 expense of Charles Dickens, who has a practical sym- 
 pathy with every movement for uplifting the lower 
 classes ; but in most cases the boys have defrayed the 
 whole, or the greater part of their outfit from their 
 own earnings, 
 
 " Many a widowed mother," says Mr. Macgregor, 
 "has been supported by her son, and the childish 
 tears of a little sister wiped away by her brother's 
 blacking brush." Taken in all their aspects, I consider 
 the shoe-black societies among the most interesting 
 and praiseworthy, reformatory and industrial organi- 
 zations I have ever known,* and sincerely hope 
 
 * There are at present (1859) , ten shoe-black societies for the employment of 
 scholars from the Ragged Schools, in London, and its vicinity, based upon the 
 same principles, and governed in the main, by the same rules as the original 
 Society. All these societies comprising over S00 lads, met at a Winter treat at 
 St. Martin's Hall, in February last, and had a grand time. A London paper 
 says: 
 
 " They occupied the centre of the hall, and their varied uniforms, together 
 with the flags and other insignia of the respective Institutions j formed a most 
 picturesque and interesting scene. There was a large assemblage of noblemen, 
 clergymen, and gentlemen, who had evidently come not only as witnesses, but 
 with a view to welcome and encourage the boys. 
 
 ' l The arrival of the Earl of Shaftesbury was the signal for tremendous applause 
 by the boys, and their cheering was renewed on several other occasions. The 
 bringing in of the plum-cake, after they had partaken of the more ordinary 
 accompaniments of tea, was one of the things which appeared to give them 
 special pleasure. The instrumental band of the Yellow (South London) Bri- 
 gade rendered essential service to the musical entertainments of the evening." 
 
 Lord Shaftesbury, who presided, congratulated the lads in a stirring address 
 and those who had received medals during the year were presented to him , and 
 
112 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ,, their success will lead all Americans visiting London 
 
 * to rightly appreciate and generously patronise the 
 
 deserving lads who nobly prefer to gain an honest 
 
 received each a cordial shake of the hand, and an interesting book. A feature 
 of the evening was the singing by the lads of the American revival hymn, 
 
 " Say, brothers will you meet us V 
 
 a copy of which had been procured by Mr. Macgregor during his recent tour 
 in the States. 
 
 The dates of the establishment of the various Societies and other particulars, 
 
 are shown in the following table : 
 
 Date of No. Earnings 
 Establish- of during 
 ment. Boys, the Year. 
 
 Ragged School (Red Uniform) 1851 71 $1 ,785 
 
 East London (Blue) ..1854 82 934 
 
 South London (Yellow) 1854 40 625 
 
 North- West London (white) 1857 20 135 
 
 West Kent (Green) 1857 13 90 
 
 West London (Purple) M 1857 21 196 
 
 Islington (Brown— Red Facings) .1857 25 235 
 
 Notting Hill (Blue— Red? Facings) 1857 15 109 
 
 Kensington (Brown— Purple Facings). 1857 14 119 
 
 Union Jack, Limehouse (Red— Blue 
 
 Facings) , 1858 16 80 
 
 326 £4,308 
 
 Or about twenty thousand dollars ! 
 
 An arrangement has been made between these Societies, by which each is 
 confined to its particular district, in order that no rivalry or jealousy may be 
 felt between those who are engaged in the same work. 
 
 There is, besides these, a Roman Catholic Society, which is not confined to 
 any particular district/ but occupies stations in all parts of London. This 
 Society employs about fifty boys: their badges are marked with the letters 
 « S. V. P." 
 
 The total number of boys employed in the original or Red Coat Society 
 since its establishment, April, 1851, is eight hundred and twenty-nine, and their 
 total earnings amount to £10,206. 
 
THE SHOE-BLACKS. 
 
 113 
 
 livelihood by the most lowly vocation , rather than 
 grow np in idleness and crime . 
 
 The earnings of the boys in each year, and the mode of division, are shown 
 in the following table (in which shillings and pence are omitted) :— 
 
 
 1852. 
 
 1853. 
 
 1854. 
 
 1855. 
 
 1856. 
 
 1857. 
 
 1858. 
 
 1859. 
 
 Average of boys em- 
 ployed 
 
 24 
 
 37 
 
 37 
 
 41 
 
 48 
 
 55 
 
 59 
 
 61 
 
 
 Earnings 
 
 £656 
 372 
 142 
 111 
 
 £760 
 450 
 148 
 161 
 
 £899 
 491 
 205 
 203 
 
 £1193 
 614 
 
 289 
 288 
 
 £1,432 
 724 
 355 
 352 
 
 £1,735 
 857 
 843 
 434 
 
 £1,785 
 887 
 454 
 443 
 
 £1,746 
 893 
 432 
 421 
 
 Boys' Wages 
 
 Boys' Banks 
 
 Retained by Society 
 
THE SUBUKBS OF LONDON. 
 
 Cowper in his " Task," if I mistake not, sings of 
 
 " The villas with which London stands begirt, 
 Like a swarth Indian with his belt of beads," 
 
 and these, and they have multiplied greatly since the 
 sweet singer passed away, have seemed to me quite 
 as worthy of consideration as many of the more grand 
 and noted structures that crowd the business streets. 
 The British are naturally fond of the country. Every 
 man who can possibly do so, plants his residence 
 amid trees and vines, and pure air; and for many 
 miles around, may be found charming villages, built 
 up almost entirely by merchants, tradesmen and 
 mechanics, doing business in the metropolis." 
 
 London a hundred years ago was only winter 
 quarters ; when it went out of town (which it did m 
 May and returned in October,) the fashionable world 
 at first resorted to Islington " to drink the waters," 
 to Hampstead, or to Chelsea. Swift, in his Journal 
 (114) 
 
THE SUBUKBS OF LONDON. 115 
 
 to Stella, repeatedly alludes to " Addison's country- 
 house at Chelsea ;" and on taking lodgings there 
 himself, talks of the beautiful scent of the new-made 
 hay around, and says he gets quite sunburnt in his 
 journeys to and fro, and whenever he stays late in 
 London he congratulates himself on having no money, 
 so that he cannot be robbed on his way home. The 
 facilities for egress and ingress are so numerous, the 
 fares so low, that one may live almost as conveniently 
 at five or ten miles from his shop, or workhouse, as 
 upon the next square. The railway arrangements 
 are infinitely better suited for promoting out of town 
 life, than those of New-York. One may go and come 
 from almost any place within thirty miles of London 
 every hour, and the accommodating railway which 
 encircles the city, has a train every fifteen minutes, 
 going to most of the villages, while the fares range 
 from six-and-a-quarter to twelve-and-a-half cents. 
 "Busses" also start from the Royal Exchange, and 
 other central localities at frequent intervals, by which 
 those who do not fancy the whirling cars, may be 
 carried home with almost equal speed; for the jehus 
 are given to rapid driving. The roads are kept in 
 such admirable order that cabs may proceed as easily 
 out of the city as within ; and as I have before stated, 
 gas lamps are to be found for ten or twenty miles 
 from the metropolis, lining the roads on either side, 
 
116 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 and making them as passable and cheerful at night as 
 Fleet-street or Cheapside. 
 
 I have been, on several occasions, to Hampstead, 
 the most elevated village in the vicinity of London, 
 standing on a bold hill several hundred feet high. 
 From Hampstead heath one may get a better view of 
 the giant city, than from almost any other point. 
 The "busses" to Hampstead run every fifteen min- 
 utes; the fare is twelve-and-a-half cents, and the 
 distance about five miles from Oxford-street. On the 
 heath (sometimes used for horse-racing) there may 
 always be found a choice array of donkeys and their 
 carts, ready for hire. It is customary for children 
 and invalids to walk out here in the afternoon, to 
 snuff the clear air, and enjoy the pretty scenery, and 
 often to take a donkey conveyance for a ride in the 
 country. I wanted to reach Hendon, a few days 
 since. It is about three miles beyond the heath, and 
 as there was no " buss" going, to meet my engagement, 
 I thought it necessary to charter some means of con- 
 veyance. Winking my desire to secure the services 
 of a donkey and chaise, the crowd of youthful drivers 
 literally swarmed about me, and the vehement ejacu- 
 lations of praise they bestowed in rapid succession upon 
 their respective establishments, would have led a 
 blind man to suppose them all equal to the royal 
 carriages. I soon struck a bargain with a ragged 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 117 
 
 fellow, who repeatedly assured me his " donkey was 
 a donkey as would go as fast as a pony." Indeed 
 from his representation, I might honestly have taken 
 the donkey to be a Lady Suffolk with lengthened 
 ears. The chaise was a very poor one, and as I got 
 in, the unpatronized drivers set up a vociferous cry in 
 favor of their carriages, " which were fit for a gentle- 
 man to ride in." For the first five minutes our don- 
 key moved sufficiently slow to render any one at all 
 in haste, exceedingly uncomfortable. The jehu yell- 
 ing and screeching at every step ; first jumping out 
 and taking the beast by the head, then beating the 
 poor specimen of stupidity with an enormous stick, 
 which seemed to have no other effect than to knock 
 it almost heels over head at every blow. Suffering a 
 mile or so of this asinine conveyance, and provoked 
 with the tediousness, as well as nearly deafened by 
 the hooting of the excited driver, I ventured to tell 
 him that, in my humble opinion, his donkey was far 
 from being a fast one ; and, in fact, that I had never 
 met a quick one in all my wanderings. There was 
 no reply to this insinuation, but donkey got another 
 terrible whack of the ox-gad, accompanied by a 
 furious jerk of the lines ; which jerking, I may say, 
 was kept up incessantly. Finding the place of my 
 destination not far distant, I abandoned the intracta- 
 ble and deceiving donkey and driver, with a much 
 
118 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 worse opinion of both, than when I bargained for my 
 ride, and would willingly have given a half crown to 
 have saved the time wasted in the vain attempt at 
 haste. Let me advise all travellers to have as little 
 to do with the Hampstead Heath donkeys as possible. 
 If you want to kill an hour or two, and pay twice as 
 much as you would to ride in a cab, employ one of 
 these absurd conveyances ; otherwise avoid them as 
 you would any abominable nuisance. 
 
 Donkeys saddled for ladies and children are seen 
 all about the heath. They never run away with their 
 freight — the only consolation attending their use. 
 Hendon, or that portion to which I had made my 
 way under such trying circumstances, was purely the 
 country. I had gone to the farm of Tanqueray, one 
 of England's most extensive and celebrated cattle 
 breeders, whose stock of short horns is perhaps un- 
 surpassed by any in the world. Meeting, as per ar- 
 rangement, my good friend Strafford, the author of 
 the " Herd Book," and Mr. Tainter, a somewhat dis- 
 tinguished stock breeder of Connecticut, and having 
 the honor of a letter of introduction to Mr, Tanqueray 
 from Colonel Benjamin T. Johnson, of the New 
 York State Agricultural Society, I was heartily com- 
 fortable in my rambles in the company of the intelli- 
 gent amateurs named. Mr. Tanqueray has a farm of 
 some, three hundred acres of very choice land, all, or 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 119 
 
 nearly all of which is in grass, and used for pasture. 
 About one hundred and forty head of cattle now make 
 up his stock, and among the number are several of 
 the finest specimens of the short-horn species the 
 country has ever produced. The noble cow recently 
 purchased by Mr. Becar, of New York, at the cost of 
 seven hundred guineas, may be justly called the 
 " Queen of cows." Drafts have repeatedly been made 
 upon the Hendon herd by the principal amateurs or 
 breeders, such as Col. Morris, Mr. Thorn and Mr. 
 Becar. 
 
 The cows are all named, and cared for as carefully 
 as canary birds. The long ranges of convenient and 
 comfortable stables attest to the good judgment of the 
 proprietor, whose experience in the rearing of choice 
 stock has placed him in the front rank of European 
 breeders. All the milk from the cows — some seventy- 
 five, I should think — is given to the calves ; and tak- 
 ing into consideration the great expense continually 
 incurred by Mr. Tanqueray, it seems absolutely ner 
 cessary that he should now and then get an enormous 
 price for an animal, to compensate for his great out 
 lay. A six hundred and fifty guinea bull was shown 
 me, (the Duke of Gloucester.) He is a valiant fellow, 
 and now the property of a distinguished American,— 
 Judges pronounce him superior to any bull ever im- 
 ported into the States, il Why don't some of you 
 
120 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 Yankee dealers buy me out entirely ?" said Mr. Tan- 
 queray, good-naturedly, as we walked through the 
 sheds ; " they are constantly making inroads upon my 
 stock — let them take it all." It is undoubtedly the 
 fact that Mr. Tanqueray's best customers are Ameri- 
 cans, enterprising gentlemen who have done much to 
 improve American stock ; and the time is not far dis- 
 tant when we may find as extensive and valuable a 
 variety of thorough-bred cattle at our great shows, as 
 at any of the English or Scotch fairs. 
 
 To give some idea of the value of land at Hendon, 
 say eight miles from London, I may state that Mr, 
 Tanqueray informed me he had been offered two hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds per acre for his farm, (three 
 hundred acres,) by a cemetery company, and that he 
 could readily get three hundred pounds per acre, The 
 land is well situated for building purposes. 
 
 The other day I had another enjoyable time at Hen- 
 don. I accompanied my friend P. and his agreeable 
 family to the annual commencement of the "Mill 
 Hill School" at that place. This school was instituted 
 in the year 1807, with the view of giving an educa- 
 tion equal to that furnished by the leading public 
 schools of the country, but free from those conditions 
 which restrict their advantages to the members of one 
 religious body. It was founded by religious men, for 
 the sake of extending the means of religious educa- 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 121 
 
 tion : and the manner in which this design has been 
 carried out is attested by the confidence it has secured 
 from all bodies of evangelical dissenters, as well as 
 from many members of the established church. The 
 estimable Dr, John Harris, author of " Pre-Adamite 
 Earth," and other valued works, was once the head- 
 master of this school. The He v. Philip Smith, B. A. 
 now occupies this responsible position. The com- 
 mencement exercises were attended by many friends 
 of the pupils, and passed over very creditably ; one 
 lad recited Longfellow's Excelsior with good effect. 
 At the close the visitors were invited to a sumptuous 
 dinner, at which after diligent eating and drinking, 
 many toasts were offered and responses made. The 
 lads then joined their parents and friends and started 
 for their summer vacation, but not without an affec- 
 tionate parting with their teachers. " Dotheboys 
 Hall" has no counterpart in Mill Hill School, where 
 there would seem to be constant good living and the 
 best feeling between teachers and pupils. 
 
 The school building is on an elevation command- 
 ing a most beautiful prospect. Near at hand is the 
 village of Harrow-on-the-Hill where Lanfranc built 
 a church, Thomas a Becket resided, and Wolsey was 
 rector, but better known for its school founded in 
 1592 by a substantial yeoman named John Lyon, and 
 ever since a celebrated educational establishment. 
 
122 ST. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 The scholars are chiefly the sons of noblemen and 
 wealthy gentlemen. Among the eminent Harrow- 
 vians are Sir "William Jones, the Oriental Scholar : 
 the Rev. Dr. Parr ; Lord Rodney, Lord Palmerston, 
 Lord Elgin, Lord Shaftesbury, Lord Byron, Sir Rob- 
 ert Peel, and the distinguished American the Hon. 
 John A. King. 
 
 In the chapel, the church, and the school, there is 
 no distinction of seats for the sons of noblemen, and 
 it is said that it was for this reason that Rufus Xing 
 when American Ambassador to London sent his sons 
 to Harrow, as the only school where no distinction 
 was shown to rank. 
 
 Hackney is one of the prettiest surburban villages 
 of London. It w r ears a deligtful rural aspect, and is 
 easily approached by " buss" or rail at all times, and 
 is but three or four miles from the heart of the great 
 city* I need hardly remind you that the term 
 " Hackney," as applied to coaches, was derived from 
 this village. In former times, before London had 
 expanded so greatly, it was a good drive to Hackney, 
 and many coaches were employed in carrying pleas- 
 ure parties, to enjoy the pleasant scenery of the place; 
 hence the term now so general. 
 
 Hounslow, upon the South-western railway, twelve 
 miles from the "Waterloo Station, is a quiet retreat. 
 I have been there on two occasions to visit a friend. 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 123 
 
 By " buss" it may be reached in two hours from the 
 Strand, London, (fare twenty-five cents) passing by 
 Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens. A beautiful 
 route. 
 
 I sailed up the Thames as far as Chelsea a few days 
 since, in one of the little black racers — for the insig- 
 nificent little steamers move along at a furious pace. 
 The sides of the river, even so far up, are thickly 
 built upon. — There are several docks where the boat 
 stops, one near Lambeth (above the Houses of Parlia- 
 ment and on the opposite side of the river,) where 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury resides. — It is a dreary 
 looking old place, set up more like a State than a 
 Church establishment. The Houses of Parliament 
 are seen to the best advantage from one of the ferry 
 boats. 
 
 " Can you go to "Woolwich and Greenwich on 
 Thursday ?" said my friend M., as I sat in the great 
 chair at his elbow, in his quiet chambers, near the 
 dusty Temple Bar, that famous relic of ancient 
 London. 
 
 " At your service," I replied, with no little satisfac- 
 tion ; and so, when Thursday came, we took to one of 
 the dingy Thames steamers, paid our sixpence, and 
 started for "Woolwich and Greenwich, some six or 
 eight miles down the river from St. Paul's. The day 
 was a genuine English day — dark, and suggestive of 
 
124 stv paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 rain. The sky looked black, and the atmosphere was 
 fairly dense with fog. Bnt we had our umbrellas, 
 and, as usual, it did not rain, although the sun failed 
 to get his bright face clearly out of the gloomful 
 clouds during the whole day. 
 
 Woolwich is of great note for being the oldest mili- 
 tary and naval arsenal in England, and for its royal 
 dockyard, where men-of-war w r ere built as early as 
 the reign of Henry the Eighth. The Thames is here 
 so deep that the largest ships may at all times ride 
 with safety. Having made a hasty survey of the 
 extensive artillery barracks, and the royal military 
 academy, we soon reached the gateway to the great 
 dock-yards. It was the dinner hour, and as the men 
 were all away, we could not get immediate admission. 
 The renowned "Woolwich common was but a little far- 
 ther, and to that we turned our steps. Conceive of a 
 beautiful plot of ground, as nature made it, a parallel 
 for our justly prized Boston Common, and you will 
 have a clever daguerreotype of this, the chief of John 
 Bull's training schools. Here many a fresh recruit 
 has first appreciated the science of war. Here many 
 a time-worn soldier has returned, to show his scars to 
 a grateful country. We could not gain admittance to 
 the dockyard after all. A curious dilemma presented 
 itself. It was against the rules to admit foreigners, 
 without a permit from the Admiralty Office. The 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 125 
 
 register called for my residence, as well as name, and 
 when I honestly wrote " New York," the polite offi- 
 cial " was sorry to say" I could not be allowed to 
 enter. M. became highly excited, and demanded to 
 see the Commander-in-Chief. " Certainly," said he at 
 the gate, "I'll send a guard with you," So a tall, 
 orderly policeman went with us, and heartily did he 
 laugh at the idea of calling any one a foreigner who 
 spoke the English language so well. M. saw the 
 Commodore, was kindly received, but it was of no 
 avail. "It would cause great difficulty to infringe 
 upon the rules ; was very sorry," etc. ; so we took the 
 boat for Greenwich, and an inspection of its celebra- 
 ted hospital. 
 
 Greenwich is a fine, quiet old place, closely tied to 
 London by railway, coach and steamer. The hospital 
 buildings are numerous and imposing, built of dark 
 grey stone, and in a massive style. The extensive 
 and elegant grounds are admirably kept. Troops of 
 veteran mariners were strolling about in cocked hats 
 and blue coats. Some were lame, others blind, and 
 not a few had one leg less than nature originally pro- 
 vided them. "We entered the painted hall, or picture 
 gallery — sixpence was the fee. A lofty room is hung 
 with a variety of superb oil paintings, chiefly repre- 
 senting distinguished naval commanders and noted 
 naval engagements. The brave Nelson's victories are 
 
126 
 
 ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 appropriately commemorated. Our attention was 
 called to a neat case containing the identical coat and 
 vest worn by the daring hero when he fell mortally 
 wounded on the deck of the Victory. The English 
 sailors all delight to talk of Nelson. He is the Wash- 
 ington of their imagination. Surely he was a man 
 whose memory will be preserved to the latest gener- 
 ation. Many beautiful incidents of his affectionate 
 and endearing manner, both in public and private 
 life, live in the warm hearts of his admiring country- 
 men. " I have seen him," says the poet Rogers , 
 " spin a tetotum with his one hand a whole evening, 
 for the amusement of some children." His universal 
 kindness to those under his command was a notable 
 feature of his excellent character ; when forced to see 
 men whipped upon his ship, he ascended to the deck, 
 read rapidly and in an agitated voice the rules of the 
 service, and then cried ; " Boatswain, do your duty . 
 Admiral, pardon !" He would then look around upon 
 his officers, and all keeping silence, would say, — 
 " What ! not one of you, gentlemen, not one of you 
 has pity upon that man in his sufferings? Untie the 
 man ! My brave fellow, on the day of battle remem- 
 ber me," It was very seldom that the sailor thus ad- 
 dressed by his commander did not distinguish himself 
 in the hour of conflict. It is related that one, John 
 Sykes, saved his (Nelson's) life twice by parrying the 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON. 127 
 
 blows aimed at him, and on one occasion actually in- 
 terposed his head, receiving a severe cut intended for 
 the admiral. 
 
 The Greenwich hospital is not, like our American 
 hospitals, merely an abode for the sick. It is the 
 grand retreat of all the old and homeless members of 
 the Royal family, and a comfortable place it is. In 
 one of the buildings we walked through a long corri- 
 dor, and saw the snug little rooms where the venera- 
 ble tenants have their quiet homes. In nearly every 
 one there was some memento of Nelson — a splinter 
 from one of his ships, a picture of one of his memora- 
 ble battles, or a wood-cut, lithograph, or steel engrav- 
 ing of the great victor himself —and not a few of the 
 old men seemed to envy the good fortune of the dar- 
 ing John Sykes. You will remember how some of 
 these veterans who were at the hero's burial at St. 
 Paul's seized the tattered flag that was to have been 
 placed by his side in the grave, and moved by one 
 impulse, rent it in pieces, keeping each a fragment. 
 
 The Greenwich fair is a relic of old English cus- 
 toms, which has thus far escaped the devastating 
 hand of progress. It is held annually, continues for 
 several days, and brings together a vast concourse of 
 the scum of the London populace. It was, in fact, 
 a day after the fair, but the oddly mingled attractions 
 had not all been removed, and a. few fast boys and 
 
128 
 
 ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 rude girls were amusing themselves with the various 
 games which the ingenuity of a regiment of showmen 
 had devised, to fill their pockets with coppers. Punch 
 and Judy were busy as usual, and their grotesque 
 antics met the satisfaction of the idle throngs. An old 
 and curious custom always in vogue at this fair, is 
 that of the " scratchers." Both men and women, boys 
 and girls, large and small, provide themselves with 
 what Yankee urchins denominate " crickets." "With 
 these they not only keep up an incessant clatter, but 
 it is considered highly proper to scratch them over 
 your back, when your eyes are not on the watch. A 
 large one will do serious damage to a coat. Fortu- 
 nately, the majority of these amiable performers had 
 left the fair grounds before our arrival, and we 
 escaped a scratching. 
 
 Donkey races are always popular at Greenwich 
 fair. A certain sum, ten shillings or upwards, is put 
 up as sweepstakes, and the donkey rider going 
 over the course and arriving at the judges' stand first, 
 merits the money. It. matters not whether the pace 
 be a trot, canter or gallop. As may be presumed 
 these popular races afford a vast fund of amusement. 
 
 The world-renowned Greenwich observatory, built 
 by Charles II., on the summit of a hill, called Flam- 
 stead Hill, from the great astronomer of that name, 
 who was here the first astronomer royal, is a small 
 
THE SUBURBS OF LONDON, 129 
 
 building. The spires of London may be plainly seen 
 
 from it on a clear day — so my friend said, as we 
 
 walked across the broad Greenwich Common, and 
 
 caught the omnibus for Charing Cross and our city 
 
 lodgings. 
 
 x x x * x -x- x 
 
 I was at Aylesbury a few days since, forty miles 
 from London, The fare to go and return, second 
 class, was $2 16. Taking the London and North- 
 western rail from Euston Square to Chadington Junc- 
 tion, from whence by single rail there is a train to 
 Aylesbury, a perfect sample of an English inland 
 town ; old and secluded, a place where one might 
 live undisturbed by the din of progress ; a capital 
 home for superannuated parsons or politicians, or 
 even a congenial retreat for mercantile fogies. The 
 agricultural district around about is extremely rich 
 and fertile. Indeed, the vale of Aylesbury is thought 
 to be second to no section of England in the produce 
 of good crops. I happened to enter the town while 
 the annual wool fair was being held. Large bales of 
 wool were piled in the market and town square, I 
 mingled among the farmer salesmen, and, if they did 
 not pull the wool over my eyes, (they had no cause 
 to, knowing I was not trying to speculate,) the prices 
 obtained were in advance of those of any recent sales. 
 
 The market is a building well suited to the town. 
 
 6* 
 
130 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 Beneath the clock, upon the tower, the words, " The 
 hour is at hand," are painted in large letters, and can 
 but be observed by every passer-by. A singular 
 position for such an intimation, and yet what should 
 be kept in mind more constantly by those who engage 
 in the uncertain business of earth ? 
 
 The fame of the Aylesbury duck ia world-wide. 
 Over $100,000 has been returned to the town during 
 the past year, from the sale of ducks ! Think of it ; 
 and think better of the poultry trade than you ever 
 have before ! I visited the duck breeders, or several 
 of them. One has had as many as 2,500 at once. 
 They are mainly devoured by the London epicures. 
 
 Having indulged in an agreeable dinner at the 
 White Hart Hotel, on the day of my arrival in 
 Aylesbury, I had - the good fortune to make the 
 acquaintance of the amiable host, Mr. Fowler, to whom 
 I am greatly indebted for interesting information 
 relating to the town and surrounding country, the 
 crops, stock, and many other matters. The antiqui- 
 ties of his hotel, one of the oldest buildings in the 
 south of England, (long kept by his father, and con- 
 sidered one of the best public houses in the country,) 
 merit notice. Let me speak particularly of the large 
 room of the house — the ball, or dining room. It is, 
 according to mine host, some thirty-nine feet long by 
 twenty-three wide. It is paneled from top to bottom, 
 
THE* SUBURBS OF LONDON. 131 
 
 and has recesses formed for the reception of paintings. 
 It has the " egg and tongue" ornament carved around 
 the cornice, richly gilt; and the fire-place is hand- 
 somely carved with scroll work, and gilded in like 
 manner. The upper part of the paneling is arranged 
 alternately with groups of fruits and flowers, and 
 warlike trophies. The ceiling is divided into nine 
 compartments, with gilt bosses at the intersection of 
 the beams. The centre compartment is filled with a 
 painting on canvas of two figures, representing Peace 
 and Concord, holding palm branches and cherubim 
 flying from behind clouds ; two of the jolly urchins 
 are bearing a crown and the initials 0. E., above the 
 principal figures, where two others are below, bearing 
 a scroll with this legend : — 
 
 " Let Peace and Concord sit and* singe, 
 And subjects yield obedience to their Kinge." 
 
 A motto meeting a much wider response now than 
 when it was painted upon this scroll. 
 
 The sides of the room were undoubtedly meant to 
 represent a statue and picture gallery. They are 
 lined with well-painted figures, such as Diana, Juno, 
 Venus, and Mercury. Over the fire-place is a picture 
 of " Thomyris," queen of the Scythians, receiving the 
 head of the great Cyrus, first king of the Persians, 
 after she had defeated him, and uttering the memo- 
 rable words, " Satiate sanguine quern semper sitisti" 
 — " Satiate thyself with that blood which thou hast 
 
132 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 always thirsted for." The huge grate in this curious 
 room was from Nell Gwynne's house London. 
 
 Mr. Fowler, besides being a popular landlord, is a 
 .skilful and extensive farmer. A walk through his 
 wide fields proved he was no novice in the science of 
 agriculture. " Step with me," said he, " into this 
 wheat field. 'Tis acknowledged to be the best in the 
 vale of Aylesbury." The stalks measured over six 
 feet ; we were as much hidden from view after wander- 
 ing through them a few yards, as we should have 
 been in a dense forest. Passing further on, he pointed 
 to the circle taken by the steeple-chase riders, meet- 
 ing at Aylesbury, annually. Various ditches and 
 hurdles were designated as having been the scenes of 
 severe accidents to both horses and riders. Near by 
 we inspected a half-dozen two-year old colts — mam- 
 moth fellows — brought from Belgium by Mr. Fowler, 
 where, he informed me, he secured them at a price 
 very far below that for which such animals could be 
 purchased in England. They were much like the 
 large dray-horses, and I doubt not the investment will 
 prove a profitable one to him. Mr. Fowler also took 
 me to see his sheep and poultry, and in fact, treated 
 me with rare kindness, and when I left his establish- 
 ment, gave me a most pressing invitation to visit him 
 again at my earliest convenience, not as a traveler? 
 but as his welcome private guest. Such is a good 
 specimen of English hospitality. 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE AND FARMS. 
 
 I have made two trips to Windsor. On the first 
 occasion, it was not my privilege to enter tlie castle, 
 owing to the presence of the Royal family. But on 
 my last visit, thanks to the Royal absence, I had the 
 pleasure of going all over the stone mansion and 
 fortress, having secured an order from Messrs. Acker- 
 man, the long-established dealers in Artists' materials 
 on the Strand, who are empowered to issue gratuitous 
 tickets of admission. 
 
 The distance to Windsor is twenty-six miles, per 
 South-western railway, from Waterloo Station. The 
 train puts you down adjoining the castle, an imposing 
 sight of which is had long before nearing the village. 
 It looms up in the dim distance like a mighty moun- 
 tain of art, and is indeed a truly massive and im- 
 posing structure, in every way fulfilling my boyish 
 ideas of a regal stronghold of the olden time. 
 
 The first part of the Royal establishment at Wind- 
 (133) 
 
134 st. paijl's to st. sophia. 
 
 sor to which attention is called, is the mews or stables. 
 Entering the office of the " keeper of the horse," you 
 are provided with a pass, and a guide, who, without 
 fee, conducts you throughout the magnificent and 
 extensive stables and carriage-houses. Over a hun- 
 dred of the most superb horses were standing in the 
 stables. Several white Arabian ponies, presented to 
 the Queen by his Imperial Highness, Omar Pasha, 
 struck me as being unusually pretty. There were 
 whole ranges of saddle-horses; some for the use of 
 Her Majesty, others for the Prince, and many for the 
 sporting juniors of the crown family. The stalls are 
 all of the most spacious area, and the name of each 
 horse is placed over his head. One in particular, is 
 honored with the strange title, " Arsenic ;" and ano- 
 ther showy animal, often driven by her Majesty, 
 bears the real rustic name of " Phoebe." The posting, 
 or road horses, large bays, were almost as elegant as 
 the noble animals of the American Express Compa- 
 nies. In each department the grooms were busily at 
 work, all in the Royal livery. The carriage-houses 
 are stocked with every species of vehicle : carriages 
 for State occasions, carriages for pleasure riding about 
 the farms ; light carriages, with India-rubber cover- 
 ings upon the tires of the wheels, for riding through 
 the garden paths ; carriages for posting long jour- 
 neys ; carriages for shooting ; carriages for the ser- 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE AND FARMS. 135 
 
 vants to go to the races, and carriages for the ladies- 
 in-waiting upon the Queen. Most of these vehicles 
 are painted black, and striped with red, and are less 
 clumsy than many English, conveyances. One old 
 and rusty-looking green coach, the guide said, was 
 used by the Queen when she wished to go anywhere 
 in cog. On such occasions she has no outriders, and 
 the carriage would be generally supposed to belong to 
 an humble farmer's wife. Under one roof, I was 
 shown a parade of the " coaches of other days," 
 including one in which George the Third was wont to 
 travel, and several used by other defunct kings. 
 There are also many carriages which have been 
 presented to the Queen — several really elegant ones 
 from the Emperor Nicholas ; also, two sledges from 
 his highness. These were used last winter. The 
 stables and horses, the carriages and sets of harness 
 belonging to the royal establishment, are all kept in 
 a manner worthy their magnificence. The various 
 rich kinds of harness, and scores of saddles and 
 bridles, would make a wholesale saddlery wareman 
 think his stock insignificant. 
 
 Passing from the mews, I entered the Castle, and 
 with a party of like strangers, under the attendance 
 of a polite guard, had a full and minute inspection of 
 the celebrated and interesting premises. The historic 
 associations of the time-honored building are among 
 
136 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the most exciting in British annals. The royal, or 
 state apartments, the all-attractive portions of the 
 Castle, are unoccupied during much of the time. 
 Her Majesty having the Buckingham Palace, the 
 Osborne House, Isle of Wight, the Highland home, at 
 Balmoral, and several other mansions, it is expected 
 that but a few months of the year will be devoted to 
 Windsor, though the connection of the royal farms, 
 etc., makes it by far the most pleasant place, I should 
 presume. The state apartments comprise some half 
 dozen spacious rooms. We were first shown into the 
 Audience Chamber, a pleasant room, well lined with 
 paintings, and, if my memory serves me, some fine 
 specimens of Gobelin tapestry. Next came a large 
 hall, in which we were pointed to many paintings 
 from the pencil of Van Dyke, and other eminent 
 masters. One or two small but elegantly furnished 
 rooms being examined, the attendant ushered the 
 delighted party into the grand ball-room, which far 
 outvies anything of the kind I remember to have 
 seen. The ceiling, some forty feet in height, is 
 gorgeously decorated with gold, while the walls of 
 the room are illustrated in superb style. At the 
 end toward Eton College, is the famous window, 
 from which the prospect is surpassingly sublime. I 
 fancied myself in fairy land, as I looked above, 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE AND FARMS. 137 
 
 around, and on all the splendor, both natural and 
 artistic. 
 
 We were conducted into the immense dining-room, 
 which is two hundred feet long, and proportionally 
 wide. The shields of the knights of the kingdom are 
 displayed on the walls, and at one end of the room is 
 a beautiful throne of oak, on which her Majesty may 
 preside at great festivals. Passing out of the room at 
 a door opposite to the throne, we came to the Armory, 
 where there is an endless variety of weapons, ar- 
 ranged in beautiful order, forming stars, crowns, etc. 
 A piece of the ship "Victory," surmounted by a 
 superbly wrought marble bust of the immortal Nel- 
 son ; several captured cannon, and a host of other 
 trophies of war and naval and military accoutrements, 
 fill up the room. I dare not attempt to enumerate 
 half of the articles, though scarcely one of them is 
 devoid of great historic interest. 
 
 The living apartments of her Majesty are not 
 shown. Very properly so, for the scores of visitors 
 would soon sadly interfere with their neatness. 
 
 The scenery adjoining the Castle is chaste, elegant, 
 and truly English. The large parks, the rows of 
 trees, especially those beside the " Long "Walk," — a 
 road leading directly from the front of the palace to 
 the end of Windsor Park — are grand beyond descrip- 
 tion. The walk alluded to is, I think, the most 
 
138 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 enchanting I have ever strolled through. A consid- 
 erable improvement has been made to the palace and 
 grounds during a few years past, and, with the excep- 
 tion of one or two dilapidated sections, there is nothing 
 to lead you to believe it of so long standing. Wind- 
 sor Oastle is thought by many to be the most noble 
 and extensive building of its order now remaining in 
 the kingdom. Its size is immense. The view from 
 the Castle terrace, -out upon Windsor and Eton, the 
 College and the shallow Thames, is picturesque in the 
 extreme, and the whole vicinity has, you know, been 
 honored with the criticism and admiration of Pope, 
 and others of those whose names are immortal. 
 
 To see the stables and the palace, is generally the 
 sum total of the ambition of the visitors (unless the 
 Queen should be " at home," when they would be 
 anxious to peep at her.) But I had no thought of 
 returning to London without making myself some- 
 what familiar with the manner of Royal farming. A 
 letter from a good friend in the metropolis to Mr. 
 Wilson, her Majesty's head agriculturist, gave me 
 access through the fields. There are two or three 
 very large farms connected with the Castle. One is 
 known as the " Shaw Farm," and one as " Prince 
 Albert's Model Farm ;" for Bis Eoyal Highness 
 pretends to be a practical farmer. Indeed, I believe 
 his love is much stronger for plowshares and pruning- 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE AND FARMS. 139 
 
 hooks, than for swords or battle-axes. Not. a bad 
 feature, this, in his otherwise admirable character. 
 
 I had to walk several miles to the farm entrance- 
 gates, and was first directed to the gardens, where 
 were large supplies of vegetables, fruits and flowers, 
 and the evidence of skilful attention. Several veteran 
 gardeners were lounging about. 
 
 From thence I stepped into the poultry-yards, and 
 had a pleasant welcome from the royal crowers and 
 cacklers, and an agreeable conversation with the 
 poultry-keeper. Two independent-looking roosters 
 were pointed out as the pets of the young princes. 
 Her Majesty's collection of poultry is not so good as 
 I anticipated, nor is it at all in keeping with the per- 
 fection of her stock of cows and pigs. But who 
 could expect Yictoria to pay much attention to 
 chicken-breeding? By-the-by, I saw a few half- 
 feathered relics of the choice lot of " Gray Shanghais," 
 presented her Majesty by a Yankee amateur, a year 
 or two since. He would scarcely recognize them in 
 their English condition. They seem to thrive sadly, 
 (pardon the bull) upon anti-republican care. 
 
 'Twas but a short distance from the poultry-yard to 
 the dairy buildings. I had to pass through the milk 
 room to find the royal butter makers. An odd old 
 brace of souls have charge of the dairy operations. 
 No " up country" village could produce a more rustic- 
 
140 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 looking couple. They were indulging in a quiet meal 
 in a side room of their cozy cottage. I waited a few 
 minutes for the completion of the repast, when the 
 good dame set earnestly to work informing me on 
 the important duties of her office. I was first 
 marched through a long room filled with pans flowing 
 with the richest milk, not inferior even to "pure 
 Orange County." The pans or dishes were all of 
 porcelain, pure white, and oval shaped, and the old 
 lady descanted merrily over their many good qualities. 
 Acknowledging them the most convenient and taste- 
 ful articles of the kind I had ever seen, and express- 
 ing intense satisfaction at the looks of the milk, I was 
 conducted to several mysteriously covered wooden 
 platters, and before I could give a thought as to their 
 contents, the covers were jerked off, and my eyes 
 feasted upon a great array of table rolls of rich-look- 
 ing new-made butter. 
 
 " And where are these consumed ?" said I. M Oh t 
 at Buckingham Palace," replied the proud mistress of 
 the rolls ; " we send them away every morning at two 
 o'clock, and they are on her Majesty's table at break- 
 fast time." On examination, I found that each roll 
 bore the stamp of the sovereign, Y. E., and a crown. 
 " These are also sent to Buckingham every day," said 
 my guide, pointing to several portly cans of bona fide 
 cream. " Why, what can they do with it all at the 
 
WINDSOR CASTLE AND FARMS. 14:1 
 
 Palace ?" I asked, " Oh ! use it for coffee and tea, 
 fruits and the like." I concluded that there was at 
 least one place in the world where strawberries and 
 cream could be enjoyed in perfection. Ke-assuring the 
 obliging old lady of my profound gratification at the 
 condition of the dairy, I was shown by her husband, 
 a much less enthusiastic spirit, into the barns and cat- 
 tie yards. Fifty cows are kept, and many of them are 
 famous milkers. The short horns compose the prin- 
 cipal part of the herd. They were quietly chewing 
 the cud in the yard, and one or two men were 
 engaged in milking. An elegant stone edifice, with 
 high clock tower in the centre, is so divided and 
 arranged as to give the most ample and queenly 
 accomodation to all the royal stock. The building is 
 conceived in beautiful taste, and designed, as all such 
 erections should be, to afford complete comfort to the 
 useful occupants, and prove an ornament to the farm. 
 The royal pigs deserve more than a casual notice. 
 The " Prince Albert Suffolk" is a deservedly popular 
 species. His Eoyal Highness has given considerable 
 attention to the improvement of the breed, and has 
 been a successful competitor at many of the recent 
 important shows of stock in different parts of England. 
 On the whole I was well satisfied with the reward 
 attending my honest curiosity in the investigation of 
 her Majesty's plantations. One visitor in a thousand 
 
142 
 
 st. paul's to st. so^hia. 
 
 would not care to roam beyond the Castle walls. I 
 found much more of interest in the farms, than in all 
 the venerated rooms of the old building. 
 
 The well-known fact that both the Queen and the 
 Prince take much personal interest and pride in their 
 farms and farming, has elevated them in my regard 
 more than all the political prowess they have ever 
 displayed. "lis in the communion with nature that 
 refinement and worth of character are revealed far 
 more than in the study of courts and parliaments. 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWOKTH. 
 
 One might easily anticipate a dingy town from the 
 appearance of the outskirts of Sheffield. For miles 
 we passed through avenues of factories and furnaces. 
 The thick, black smoke rising from a regiment of 
 dignified chimneys, the throngs of strong-armed men, 
 the clatter of a hundred trip-hammers, the whirl of 
 a thousand grindstones, the puffing and snorting of a 
 host of steam-engines, combine to assure the new- 
 comer that Sheffield is truly the seat of industry. 
 Cabs attend the station, as in all English towns and 
 cities, and for a sterling shilling I was carried, bag 
 and baggage, to a convenient hotel. 
 
 Architecture has scarcely dawned upon Sheffield. 
 With one or two exceptions, there is not an edifice 
 worthy of note. The streets are many of them 
 narrow,* and the houses universally plain and dreary 
 
 * One of the main thoroughfares is called " Washington. Road." There is a 
 M Washington Street" in Glasgow 
 
 143) 
 
144 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 — mostly built of brick. He who can draw satisfac- 
 tion from an acquaintance witli the progress of 
 mechanism, may, however, at almost every step, 
 discover something to delight his fancy. It has been 
 my fortune to visit many of the extensive manufacto- 
 ries. The Sheafe Works, long widely known, were, 
 until recently, carried on by the Messrs. Greaves. 
 They are now conducted by other parties. Although 
 rather after hours this afternoon, I was kindly permit- 
 ted to go through the premises. About a thousand 
 men are employed, and the buildings are most 
 extensive, lying on both sides the canal. Cart and 
 coach springs, chisels and files, are the principal 
 articles manufactured. 
 
 Kodgers &Sons, the world-renowned cutlers " to her 
 Majesty," have their works in Norfolk Street, and 
 have for many years carried on a most extensive 
 business in the manufacture of knives, scissors, razors, 
 etc. Their show-rooms are well worthy of examina- 
 tion. 
 
 I went into an establishment for making silver and 
 Britannia dishes, covers, etc. The process is both 
 curious and interesting. Most of the articles are 
 stamped, but the most expensive are hammered out 
 by hand. The stock of stamps astounded me, as well 
 as the rapidity with which the dishes are completed. 
 Powerful hammers stamp the handles and ornaments 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWORTH. 14:5 
 
 at a single blow. A number of persons follow this 
 business, and I noticed, as in all English manufacto- 
 ries, that most of the journeymen were men advanced 
 
 4 
 
 in years. Such able and experienced workmen are 
 seldom found doing journey work in the States. 
 
 Dixon & Sons, makers of plated wares, are among 
 the largest manufacturers in Sheffield, employing 
 nearly, if not full, a thousand workmen. But I must 
 not attempt to even give the names of the enterprising 
 firms. Sheffield manufacturers have a world-wide 
 fame, and their city is strongly bound to America by 
 commercial ties — more strongly, perhaps, than any 
 other English city. " If it were not for the American 
 trade, I don't know what would become of us," said a 
 manufacturer to me yesterday. Everything per- 
 taining to America is eagerly listened to. I have 
 seen several public notices concerning " our land." 
 The following which I copied this morning from 
 a large poster, may amuse you, as it has me : — 
 
 AMERICA AND THE BIBLE. 
 
 MR. J B 
 
 Will lecture in the Adelphi Theatre on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, 
 August 6, 7, and 8. Three Lectures on America, as follows :— 
 
 Sunday, August 6th. 
 
 America — its Soil and Climate ; its Government and Institutions and Laws * 
 its Botanical and Zoological Productions, etc. Game and Vermin. 
 
 7 
 
146 ST. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 Monday, August 7th. 
 
 America— its Reforms and Reformers, Political, Civil, Legal, and Moral, 
 including the Anti-Slavery, Woman's Rights, Temperance, and Maine Law, 
 Land and Labor Reform, Bible and Religious Movements. 
 
 Tuesday, August 8th. 
 
 America— the Customs and Manners of the People ; Education, Music and 
 Songs, with specimens of Negro and other popular Melodies ; Prospects of 
 Emigrants, Labor, Wages, and Prices of Provisions ; Difficulties and Dangers 
 of Emigration ; Spirit Rapping, Clairvoyance, &c. 
 
 Questions may be put at the end of each Lecture, or one hour's discussion* 
 Ten minutes being allowed to each speaker. 
 
 Prices of admission, 3d, 2d, and Id. 
 
 I would give much to attend this promising course 
 of lectures, but cannot stop long enough. The lec- 
 turer will have his hands full, if he does justice 
 to all of the topics enumerated, and many strange 
 questions will be put to him, if his hearers are as 
 inquisitive as most Englishmen. 
 
 I also find attractive advertisements announcing 
 that " The great American Doctors have arrived !" 
 
 M. M. Ji. JZ. Ji. J£. M. .A!. «J£. 
 
 w w w *3F *7p w w w ^F 
 
 Sheffield has long been justly proud of her Mont- 
 gomery, and it is but a few months since he was 
 called to exchange worlds. A Christian warrior, ripe 
 in years, hoary in the service of his Master, he was 
 not dismayed at the summons from time to eter- 
 nity. Those familiar with his beautiful poems, 
 have not failed to admire their devotional spirit. 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWOKTH. 147 
 
 Seldom has a writer of such rare genius and earthly 
 fame evinced so much of religious feeling and faith. 
 With a desire to visit the spot where the good man 
 had so long lived, I found my w r ay to his mansion on 
 " The Mount," a very pretty elevation, just in the 
 outskirts of Sheffield ; a location fit for the abode of 
 a lover of the picturesque, and retired. Just across 
 the road are the popular Botanical Gardens. Having 
 taken the precaution to procure an order from a pro- 
 prietor, I readily secured admission. Every pro- 
 prietor has a right to give cards of free admission to 
 persons living over seven miles from Sheffield, and I 
 had little difficulty in proving I lived at a greater 
 distance. Almost every shopkeeper in Sheffield is a 
 proprietor, and strangers find no trouble in getting 
 tickets at any time. The gardens are tasteful and 
 extensive, well sustaining the repute in which they 
 are held by the people of Sheffield. They abound in 
 pretty plants and shrubbery, long secluded walks, 
 and shaded avenues. A large green-house contains 
 the choicest flowers. There are several ponds of 
 water, and various hills and dales, setting off the 
 grounds very nicely. I am not surprised at their 
 popularity as a place of resort. Such an oasis is 
 especially to be prized in a closely-built manufactur- 
 ing city 
 
 Montgomery took much pride in these gardens, 
 
148 ST. PAUI/S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 visiting them very often. Near tlie main entrance 
 are several thrifty evergreens, planted by him. Long 
 may they keep his memory green. The dust of the 
 poet was deposited in the new Sheffield cemetery ; a 
 few moments' walk from the gardens brought me to 
 the grave. A new and imposing stone chapel has 
 just been completed on the most elevated portion of 
 the grounds. Immediately in front of this chapel is 
 a large circular plot, directly in the centre of which 
 lies all that remains of the Sheffield poet. The grass 
 has scarcely grown over the mound. " He was much 
 esteemed," said I to an Irish laborer engaged in 
 raSing the dry leaves off the adjoining pathway. 
 u Indeed he was, sir ; no man in Sheffield ever had so 
 great a burial."* 
 
 An elegant monument will be placed over the 
 grave. The cemetery promises to vie with Green- 
 wood in beauty, and its precincts will ever be 
 hallowed by the memory of the honored poet whose 
 sainted spirit is far from the gloomy shades of earth, 
 
 * Somebody once robbed Montgomery of an inkstand, presented to him by 
 the ladies of Sheffield. The public execration was so loud, that the thief 
 restored the booty with the following note : 
 
 " Birmingham, March, 1812. 
 
 Honored Sir— When we robbed your house, we did not know that you wrote 
 such beautiful verses as you do. I remember my mother told some of them to 
 me when I was a boy. I found what house we robbed by the writing on the 
 inkstand. Honored sir, I send it back. It was my share of the booty, and I 
 hope you and God will forgive me." 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWOETH. 149 
 
 for now lie rests in the happy land he so well 
 described : 
 
 1 Where chilling winds and poisonous breath 
 
 Ne'er reach the healthful shore, 
 Where sickness, sorrow, pain and death, 
 Are felt and known no more." 
 
 A monument, or statue, to further commemorate 
 his memory, will be immediately erected in a promi- 
 nent place in Sheffield. 
 
 Af. 4U Jg. J2. M. JA, J&, 
 
 W W "7P W W W W 
 
 It was my original plan to reach Chatsworth from 
 another place than Sheffield; but good friends here 
 having satisfied me that I could find no more conve- 
 nient point of approach, I concluded to make an 
 excursion there on the day after my arrival. 
 
 The scenery immediately around Sheffield is highly 
 picturesque, and most refreshing to the eye after a 
 sojourn amidst the noise and smoke of the manufac- 
 turing town. The houses in the suburbs are built of 
 stone similar to that used in the erection of the 
 Houses of Parliament, for the quarries are near here. 
 The coachmen pointed out the residences of many of 
 the princely manufacturers. I don't wonder they pre- 
 fer living several miles from the town. Our road 
 then passed through the moors — desolate looking 
 enough. Here the late Sir Robert Peel came regu- 
 larly to shoot. He is said to have been an excellent 
 
150 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 shot, often bagging forty brace of birds in a day. His 
 sporting house where he lived in good style when at 
 the moors, may still be seen. Game-keepers' lodges 
 are placed at appropriate distances over this sporting 
 territory. Portions of the scenery farther on were 
 compared to that of Wales, by two fellow-travelers 
 who had just been rambling in that country. We 
 met scarcely a vehicle upon the road. A halt of a 
 few moments at the " Peacock," a half-way, road-side 
 inn, gave our coachman and the anti-teetotal share of 
 our passengers a good opportunity to "whet their 
 whistles." It is strange to notice how much a man 
 will drink when traveling. Many travelers never 
 pass an inn without taking a glass of something more 
 potent than Adam's ale. 
 
 Chatsworth, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire, 
 and a fine specimen of a well preserved and extensive 
 ducal estate, the magnificence of which John Bull 
 never wearies in extolling, is in the county of Derby- 
 shire, near Buxton, a celebrated watering-place, and 
 thirteen miles from Sheffield. The nearest approach 
 by railroad is to Rowsley, distant six miles, where 
 'busses and coaches are at all times in readiness for 
 Chatsworth. Visitors usually adopt this route. 
 
 Having prevailed on two gentlemen who had been 
 my coach companions to tarry and visit the palace 
 with me, and meeting two other Sheffield gentlemen 
 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATS WORTH. 151 
 
 just about to start from the " Wheatsheaf," where we 
 had left the coach, we all put off together. A mile 
 across the fields brought us to the kitchen gardens. 
 Passing a chaste and spacious house, which we found 
 to be Sir Joseph Paxton's new mansion, we came 
 upon the gardens, A gentlemanly fellow appeared 
 as our guide, and forthwith we entered upon our 
 examinations. 
 
 Sir Joseph Paxton has been in the Duke of Devon- 
 shire's employ for twenty-eight years, and was first 
 engaged, I believe, as an ordinary gardener. He 
 stays here but a small portion of his time. Our 
 guide said that he had been employed on the prem- 
 ises for six months, and had never yet seen Paxton ! 
 We were not allowed to approach very near to his 
 mansion on account of the presence of Lady Paxton. 
 One of my companions was trying to decipher the 
 following enigma, viz. : If visitors are not allowed to 
 come within gun-shot of the Duke of Devonshire's 
 gardener's lodge, when the gardener's wife happens 
 to be at home, how near may they be allowed to 
 approach to the Duke's palace when his lordship is 
 on the premises ! 
 
 The pine-apple house, and the houses for all foreign 
 plants, are crowded with elegant specimens. In one 
 green-house we were shown a very large peach-tree, 
 said to be forty years old, and the largest in England. 
 
152 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 It has borne as many as ninety dozen peaches in one 
 season. The conservatories are of the most approved 
 construction. Tan bark is used to protect the vines 
 and increase the heat ; water is constantly kept on 
 top the furnace flues, to render the air moist. There 
 are three ranges of hot-houses, each eighty-five yards 
 long, and several extensive peach-houses ; also a 
 mushroom-house. About one hundred and forty men 
 are constantly employed. In the room devoted to 
 the rare East India plants, the thermometer stood at 
 85 degrees. The Victoria Eegia Mansion (for such it 
 deserves to be called) next attracted our admiration. 
 The famous plant only flowers at 8 o'clock at night, 
 or on a very dull day. At first opening the flower is 
 of a delicate French white. It usually closes at 6 
 o'clock the next morning, and on the following morn- 
 ing is quite dead and withered. 
 
 " We bloom to-day ; to-morrow die." 
 
 Paxton was the first to flower this fine plant. 
 
 We visited the vineries. There are three ranges, 
 two hundred and forty-nine feet in length* But we 
 must proceed to the palace. We saw several groups 
 of from twenty to fifty deer quietly grazing upon the 
 lawn, and were informed that the Duke's stock con- 
 sisted of two thousand head. The graceful creatures 
 were, many of them, of a rich mottled color, and all 
 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWORTH. 153 
 
 so tame as to permit of our close approach. The dis- 
 tance from th.e vegetable gardens to the palace is 
 nearly a mile. The pathway, through the middle of 
 a retired vale, forms an attractive walk. We met a 
 number of ladies and gentlemen enjoying it, and soon 
 came to the "bower of Mary, Queen of Scots," a 
 small tower shaded with trees, encompassed by a 
 moat, and approached by a flight of stairs. It is said, 
 that in the garden which formerly occupied its sum- 
 mit, that beautiful princess passed many of the tedious 
 hours of her confinement, and the communion with 
 nature's lovely handiwork on every side, must have 
 gone far to relieve the sadness of her unfortunate lot. 
 
 As we neared the palace, its noble dimensions 
 loomed up in all their grandeur. There is not very 
 much of regularity in the buildings, additions having 
 been made from time to time, without regard to a 
 likeness in their architecture. We were admitted at 
 ^a grand gateway, and were soon gazing upon the 
 internal grandeur of the mansion. The great stairway 
 and reception hall amaze everybody. But we are 
 already among the pictures. 
 
 A picture of several of the children of one of the 
 former lords of Devonshire, painted by the immortal 
 Hogarth, amusingly illustrates his genius. In one 
 room we found a most extensive collection of etch- 
 ings, by the most illustrious of the old masters. Our 
 
154 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 guide intimated that we were fortunate beyond most 
 visitors, in gaining access to this department, as 
 it was seldom opened. The elegance of the picture- 
 galleries, and their extent, I cannot attempt to de- 
 scribe. I have seen nothing to approach them in 
 any private residence, nor, indeed, do many of the 
 public collections at all equal them. 
 
 The present Duke of Devonshire, unlike most of 
 the English noblemen, is no sportsman ; but that one 
 of the old dukes had a love for the turf, is evident 
 from the annexed certificate, the original of which I 
 found attached to a large and unartistic picture (in 
 one of the halls of Ohatsworth House) of that world- 
 renowned steed, " Flying Childers," 
 
 Sept. 28, 1719.— This is to certify that the bay horse, his Grace the Duke of 
 
 Devonshire has this day bought of me, was bred by me, and was five years old 
 
 last Grass, and no more. 
 
 Witness my hand. 
 
 GEO. CHILDERS. 
 
 The red velvet room, or billiard room, is con- 
 veniently located. This room was used as a sitting- 
 room by Queen Yictoria, on her last visit to Chats- 
 worth. It is tastefully ornamented. One of the 
 most attractive pictures found on its walls is that 
 called the " Spartan Isadas," representing a noble 
 youth who, by his intrepid valor, saved Sparta from 
 plunder by the Theban soldiery, and was awarded a 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATS WORTH, 155 
 
 crown of honor for liis distinguished services. This 
 masterly and energetic composition is by Eastlake, 
 the Royal Academician. In this room I also feasted 
 my eyes on Sir Edwin Landseer's original and elegant 
 picture representing " Bolton Abbey in the olden 
 time." The painting is one of rare perfection, and 
 has given much honor to the painter, *who is con- 
 sidered one of the first artists in the land. In 
 this room there is also a superb likeness of the 
 Hon. Mrs. Norton, whose exquisite poems are popular 
 the world over. 
 
 Throughout the house there are numerous presents 
 from the " Autocrat of all the Russias," who only a 
 few years since, spent a long time at Chatsworth, as 
 the intimate and esteemed friend of the duke. The 
 splendid portraits of the Emperor and Empress hang 
 over the main stairway, and the lady-like guide told 
 me, in reply to my inquiry, that the duke would 
 allow 7 none of the emperor's gifts to be put aside 
 because of the present antagonism of the countries, 
 having received them as a private friend, and not as 
 tokens of political regard. 
 
 There is no stated charge for inspecting Chatsworth 
 House and grounds, but the servants expect a fee for 
 their attention. One of the gentlemen in our party 
 had been over the premises repeatedly. Thinking he 
 could manage the ropes to our advantage, we 
 
156 st. paul ? s to st. sophia. 
 
 appointed him purser. He reckoned our outlay at 
 about three shillings each. The visitors cannot feel 
 any repugnance at paying, for the liberality of the 
 duke in allowing his private mansion to be shown, is 
 quite condescension enough, without expecting him 
 to pay a regiment to exhibit it to the throngs that 
 annually visit it. 
 
 Visitors are admitted only between the hours of 11 
 A. M., and 5 P. M. Our guide gave us the most 
 minute description of every one of the wonders. She 
 was a young lady, more refined, attentive, and grace- 
 ful than the generality of females occupying similar 
 positions. 
 
 Leaving the statuary hall, we passed into the gar- 
 dens, having exchanged our fair attendant for one of 
 the rougher sex. Leisurely tripping it over the 
 grass, and through the secluded avenues, we first 
 came to the waterfall, where, by an ingenious machin- 
 ery, a flood of water from the surrounding hills is so 
 turned as to show a young Niagara, at the will of the 
 master of the fall. Huge steps have been placed up 
 the side of a steep hill, and the sight of the foaming 
 flood leaping over them is very pretty in a country 
 where natural waterfalls are few and far between. 
 Then we came to the " Spouting Tree" — a dead tree 
 filled with water pipes, and so perforated in its trunk 
 and branches as to throw water in every direction, 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATSWORTH. 157 
 
 like rain — a very cute affair- — quite worthy a Yan- 
 kee's inventive genius. We next came to Sir Joseph's 
 artificial mountains, and so closely do they imitate 
 the genuine article, that it is hard to discover the 
 counterfeit. Great rocks are seldom put together so 
 skilfully and naturally. A huge, swinging stone 
 gate surprises us, and in a few moments the magnifi- 
 cent Crystal Palace bursts upon our view. 
 
 This building, erected ten years since by Sir 
 Joseph Paxton, then plain Mr. Paxton, suggested the 
 famous Hyde Park wonder, which gained the Chats- 
 worth gardener his honorary title, and a reputation 
 for taste and architectural skill, second to that enjoyed 
 by no man in Great Britain. It is a most symmetri- 
 cal and spacious building, two hundred and seventy- 
 seven feet long. Of the expense incurred in keeping 
 it properly warmed, you may attain a conception 
 from the well-authenticated statement of our guide, 
 that the furnaces devoured five hundred tons of coal 
 per annum ! Trees, shrubs, and plants of the choicest 
 tropical species, fill this extensive palace, and all 
 seem in luxurious growth. The cocoa-nut and bread- 
 fruit trees are of a size far beyond any in Europe, if I 
 am correctly informed. The fountains were next 
 showm us ; one of them will throw a jet two hundred 
 and sixty-seven feet high. It is called the emperor's 
 
158 st. paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 jet, having been first used during the presence of the 
 Emperor of Russia. 
 
 Another half hour devoted to a careless wandering 
 about the front of the premises, the examination of 
 several distinguished trees, or trees planted by distin- 
 guished persons, (the Queen, Prince Albert, and oth- 
 ers,) and we made our way back to the hotel. 
 
 We were prepared for a hearty dinner, and such we 
 enjoyed. A cosy parlor had been set aside for our 
 use, and everything was neat and good. A well- 
 roasted duck, a brace of stewed pigeons, a dish of 
 freshly caught trout, joints of different kinds of meat, 
 and a dessert of delectable tarts, made up the " bill of 
 fare." Expense about three shillings sterling each, 
 minus the wines, in which my English friends in- 
 dulged freely. The luxury of the ample repast was 
 materially heightened by the graceful attention 
 shown us by the pretty waiting-maid. Just such a 
 rosy cheeked modest creature as a fellow having a 
 heart at all tender, would find it difficult to resist 
 falling in love with, after the dishes were removed. 
 
 My companions were deeply interested in America. 
 One of them, an extensive manufacturer, has an 
 agency in New York. They toasted the stars and 
 stripes, and cheered to the long endurance of the 
 kindly feeling now existing between the old kingdom 
 and the young republic. I was to return by coach, 
 
SHEFFIELD AND CHATS WORTH. 159 
 
 but my kind friends insisted on my accepting a seat 
 in their carriage, and so, the dinner comfortably 
 finished, we rattled over the smooth road at a rapid 
 rate, and were in the dingy city to an early tea. 
 
 In the long day's conversation with my intelligent 
 companions I could but observe as I had in London, 
 and everywhere else in England, the marked pecu- 
 liarities in the everyday language of the people. To 
 many words in ordinary use, there is quite a different 
 meaning attached, from that which we would think 
 them to convey. For instance, if you say a man is a 
 " smart man," you are supposed to intimate that he 
 is foppish, rather than that he is intelligent ; and 
 again, if you call a man " clever/' it is understood 
 that he is witty, original, or cute, instead of merely 
 sociable. To say that you are " well posted up " on 
 a subject, will always make an Englishman laugh ; or 
 to make use of that Yankee-ism, " I guess," or worse, 
 " I reckon," has the same effect. An Englishman 
 most always commences a question with "I say:" 
 thus, " I say, Cabbie, do you want a fare ?" "We 
 would say, " Halloo, driver, what will you take me 
 to so and so for ?" When I want to appear a true 
 Briton, I invariably prefix to my interrogatories the 
 " I say." It acts like a charm ! 
 
OLD YOEK 
 
 In all England there is no city more rich in historic 
 associations, and, certainly, none more inviting to the 
 American tourist, than York on the Ouse. Its hoary 
 age and ivied quiet are in striking contrast with the 
 vaunting youth and bustling progress of our republi- 
 can metropolis. Like the veteran of many wars, the 
 one rests, laureled and honored, while the other, 
 though ardent and sanguine, has yet scarcely expe- 
 rienced the first skirmish with time, the common 
 enemy. 
 
 Like most of the old cathedral cities of England, 
 York never possessed an especial fame for either 
 commercial or manufacturing enterprise. Shell 
 combs and kid gloves have, however, been produced, 
 in considerable quantities, for a long period. The 
 Archbishop of York has the title of Primate of Eng- 
 land, with the privilege of crowning the queen-con- 
 sort, and ecclesiastical authority over the province of 
 (160) 
 
OLD YORK. 161 
 
 York, comprising the Sees of York, Durham, Carlisle, 
 Chester, Kipon, and Sodor and Man. 
 
 Yestiges of the old Roman road from York to 
 Scotland are still visible, and, throughout the city, 
 relics of the Roman occupancy may frequently be 
 found. After three years' residence, the Emperor 
 Severus died at York, in the year 210, and was 
 succeeded by his sons, Caracalla and Geta. The 
 former soon murdered the latter and made his escape 
 to Rome. Carausius landed in Britain a hundred 
 years after, and was proclaimed Emperor of Rome at 
 York. In the year 272 Constantine the Great was 
 born, and in 307 his father died at York. It was the 
 Eboracum of the Romans — at that time the first city 
 in Britain — and continued in great power till the 
 time of William the First, by whom it was destroyed, 
 after having surrendered to him through famine. 
 
 The " Black Swan " is one of the oldest inns in this 
 part of England, and has always been widely known. 
 In coaching times it was the grand depot of the Lon- 
 don coaches. The following quaint announcement is 
 copied from the well-preserved original, now hanging 
 in the coffee-room. It is a curious relic : 
 
 " YORK in Four Days. 
 
 "stage coach 
 
 " Begins on Friday the 17th of April 1706— 
 
 " All that are desirous to pass from London to YorJc, or from York to London, or 
 to any other place on the road, Let them repair to the Black Swan on ITolbourn 
 
162 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 in London or to the Black Swan in Coney street in York, At both which places 
 they may be received in a Stage Coach every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 
 which performs the whole journey in four days (if God permits) And sets forth 
 at five in the morning. And returns from York to Stamford in two days, 
 and from Stamford by Huntington to London in two days more. And the like 
 stages on their return. 
 " Allowing each passenger 141. weight, and all above 3d. a pound. 
 
 f BENJAMIN KINGMAN, 
 " Performed by 1 HENRY HARBISON, 
 ( WALTEB BAYNES. 
 
 " Also this gives notice that the Newcastle Stage Coach sets out from York 
 every Monday and Friday, and from Newcastle every Monday and Friday." 
 
 How changed the times! Oh, steam, thou great 
 invader ! 
 
 The churches, and they are numerous, form the 
 main attraction of the city. Connected with many 
 of them are extensive burial-grounds, ivied and 
 grim — 
 
 " Where many a tomb is graved to stand unseen, 
 And waste its record on the heedless throng." 
 
 In one of these church-yards were interred the 
 remains of Richard Turpin, the notorious highway- 
 man, who was tried for horse-stealing at the York- 
 shire Assizes, and executed April 7, 1739. The 
 inhabitants of the neighborhood still point out his 
 grave, and tradition asserts that, early on the morning 
 after the execution, the body was stolen for the pur- 
 pose of dissection, but a mob having assembled 
 on the occasion, it was traced by them to a garden, 
 whence it was borne in triumph through the streets 
 
OLD YORK. 163 
 
 on men's shoulders, and replaced in the same grave, 
 and a quantity of slaked lime deposited around the 
 body. 
 
 In all the churches are tablets to commemorate the 
 virtues and services of the distinguished dead. In- 
 deed, these well-wrought mementoes are now the 
 chief interest of the venerable buildings ; for, what- 
 ever may have been their architectural magnificence, 
 time, the great destroyer, has sadly disfigured it. 
 
 The old gateways under the city walls are, many 
 of them, still preserved, and massive affairs they are. 
 The city extends beyond the walls for a goodly dis- 
 tance. The streets are narrow, and many of the 
 houses have the projecting upper stories, so that you 
 might almost jump from one to another. How such 
 top-heavy buildings have been kept from tumbling 
 over, one cannot imagine. There are many fine 
 shops, and the railway station is a magnificent affair — 
 better than any in New York, with all its boasted 
 thrift and enterprise. Trains, for all parts of the 
 kingdom, start almost every hour during the day and 
 night* 
 
 The walls surrounding the city merit more than a 
 passing notice. These mighty and impassible bul- 
 warks in the sieges and battles of yore, are in most 
 
 * At present we fly from York to London by the light of a single winter's 
 day. — Macaulay. 
 
164: st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 excellent preservation. Their ancient builders knew 
 well tlie honorable art of masonry. The top of these 
 noble barriers forms a delightful promenade. Far 
 and near, the dainty landscape offers a picture of 
 unbroken and unrivalled beauty. 
 
 The river Ouse winds its peaceful way through the 
 heart of the city. It is a much better-looking stream 
 than the Thames, though not so wide. The water is 
 quite clean and clear, and boats of two or three hun- 
 dred tons may come up to the wharves. Steamers 
 ply regularly between York and Hull. Opposite the 
 city the Ouse is sixteen feet deep. Beautiful walks 
 extend along the banks of the river for several miles, 
 huge trees shading them on either side. It was in 
 the Ouse near Bedford, that John Bunyan fell when a 
 young man, and very narrowly escaped drowning. 
 
 The far-famed Minster, or cathedral, is the absorb- 
 ing wonder of York, and to the examination of its 
 gigantic proportions visitors invariably devote their 
 first hours. It is considerably larger, and, internally, 
 in a much better state of preservation than the 
 Lincoln minster, and it is of much easier access, being 
 almost in the centre of the city, and on a level with 
 the leading streets, as well as very near to the hotels. 
 It is a massive and superb structure, well w r orthy the 
 study of all who delight in architectural grandeur. 
 Near to the door which opens into the interior, is a 
 
old yoke; 165 
 
 Latin inscription, in Saxon characters, which reads 
 thus : 
 
 " Ut Rosa flos florum 
 Sic est Domus ista Domorum." 
 
 It has been thus rendered ; 
 
 " This is the chief of Houses 
 As the Rose is the chief of Flowers ." 
 
 This is said to have been a compliment paid to the 
 building by a Hollander, who had travelled the world 
 over. 
 
 In the words of another : " How individual is every 
 cathedral. York is not like Westminster, nor like 
 Strasbourg, nor Cologne, any more than Shakspeare 
 is like Milton, or Milton like Homer. The cathedral 
 of York has a severe grandeur peculiar to itself." 
 The entire structure covers some six acres. The 
 stained glass windows, elaborate carvings, and superb 
 statuary, surprise the beholder. Magnificence on 
 a scale so extensive is scarcely dreamed of in this 
 modern age of gold and extravagance. 
 
 From the north transept a vestibule leads to the 
 chapter-house ; this is an octagonal building, sixty- 
 three feet in diameter, and sixty-seven feet ten inches 
 in height, supported on the outside by eight massive 
 buttresses. "The more minutely," says Hickman/* 
 
 * Gothic Architect, p. 265. 
 
166 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 " this magnificent edifice is examined, the more will 
 its great value appear. The simplicity and boldness, 
 and, at the same time, the great richness of the nave, 
 and the very great chastity of design and harmony 
 of composition of the choir and great tower, render 
 the building more completely one whole than any of 
 our mixed cathedrals ; while the exquisite beauty of 
 the early character of the chapter-house and its 
 approach, forms a valuable link to unite the early 
 English transepts and the decorated nave. This 
 chapter-house is by far the finest polygonal room 
 without a central pier in the kingdom ; and the deli- 
 cacy and variety of its details are nearly unequalled. 
 Too much praise cannot be given the dean and chap- 
 ter for their careful restoration of every decayed 
 portion. By this restoration, the whole of the west 
 front may be considered in as good a state as when 
 first erected." 
 
 Many rare relics are shown by the aged guides. 
 A chair in the chapel is designated as the one in 
 which those amiable kings, Richard III. and James 
 VL, were crowned. A good idea of the impressive 
 grandeur of the Minster is conveyed in the following 
 incident related by Mr. Catlin, the well-known pain- 
 ter and friend of the Indians. That gentleman says : 
 " I took a party of American Indians into the build- 
 ing — you know they never express surprise — and yet, 
 
OLD YOEK. 167 
 
 when they entered, all instantly lifted up their hands 
 in awful astonishment, breathing a low-whispered 
 hush, as if fearful that their deep-struck imagination 
 might break out into words ! On coming out, they 
 said to me : ' "We never thought anything of the white 
 man's religion before V " 
 
 York Cathedral stands on the foundations of the 
 old Norman church, built in 626, by Edwin, the 
 Saxon king of Northumberland. It was fired, and a 
 portion of it very seriously burned, some years since. 
 A man concealed himself in the building on a Sab- 
 bath afternoon, and soon after the service carried out 
 his infamous design. He escaped by au ingenious 
 contrivance placed at one of the side windows (the 
 window was particularly shown us), but was finally 
 captured, tried, pronounced insane, and confined 
 during the remainder of his days in a lunatic asylum. 
 The wood- work of the towers, etc., injured by the fire, 
 was all speedily repaired. The new roof is wholly 
 constructed of teak, presented by the government, 
 and is covered with lead procured from the mines of 
 the Greenwich Hospital estates. It is stated by Gent, 
 that Cromwell granted permission to a person to pull 
 down one of the handsomest portions of the building, 
 and build a stable with the materials. The statement 
 is quite too gross to be credited. 
 
 Remaining in York over the Sabbath, I of course 
 
168 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 attended service at the Minster. The Dean of York 
 was present — a very aged man. The exercises were 
 conducted by several younger clergymen, one of 
 whom delivered a sermon. The music was at times 
 grand beyond description ; one of the pieces in the 
 afternoon being the most exquisite that I ever lis- 
 tened to, and the voices of several of the singers 
 remarkably clear and bold. "When the organ-pipes 
 opened to their fullest extent, and the singers " did 
 their loudest," we could compare the noise to nothing 
 but that of a thunder-storm, and the lowering clouds 
 having overshadowed the Minster with darkness, all 
 that was wanting to make the simile perfect was a 
 few vivid flashes of lightning. When, at the end of a 
 bar, the instrument and voices would suddenly pause, 
 the echo of notes rang through the building like the 
 sound of distant artillery. 
 
 As the audience retired I noticed it numbered 
 many of the aged and humble, as well as many repre- 
 sentatives of wealth and nobility — and not a few 
 dashing fellows, and extravagantly dressed belles, 
 whose appearance did not at all chime with the 
 ancient and solemn edifice. 
 
 At York Castle, and Mary's Abbey — the latter one 
 of the most interesting ruins in Britain — the traveler 
 always finds much worthy of his attention. The cas- 
 
OLD YORK. 169 
 
 tie is still used as a prison. Within its walls the 
 poet Montgomery was once confined for publishing a 
 patriotic song on the destruction of the Bastile ; and 
 here in 1795, he wrote his " Prison Amusements." 
 
 8 
 
"MINE OWN KOMANTIC TOWN." 
 
 Such was the fond appellation given the proud 
 capital of Scotland, by Sir Walter Scott, who, born 
 within its precincts, never failed to extol its indisputa- 
 ble merits with the warmest enthusiasm, while Cole- 
 ridge, critical Coleridge, named it first, of the five 
 finest things in Scotland. 
 
 Such laudatory mention by two lettered worthies, 
 if nothing more, should lead the tourist to a scrupu- 
 lous inspection of its varied wonders, and he will not 
 regret his painstaking. After the dull, rusty towns 
 of North England, its bright busy streets and clean 
 faced buildings, wear an air of freshness and life 
 altogether pleasing. I refer especially to what is 
 known as the new city, for the old part of Edinburgh 
 is crooked and time-worn beyond measure. Indeed 
 the two great divisions of the city, the old and the 
 new, are as different as possible, and stand in striking 
 contrast, fit exemplars of the past and present. 
 
 I naturally wandered over the old city first, and 
 (170) 
 
"mine own romantic town." 171 
 
 much there is within its confines to attract the obser 
 vant eye. What a world of ancient lore concentrates 
 in its every street and close. What visions of by-gone 
 days, and church history loom up, in the old awk- 
 ward house in the crowded Canon-gate which our 
 guide proudly announces as the home of John Knox, 
 that staunch servant of the Lord, who, through long 
 years of persecution poured forth the truths of the 
 gospel with marvellous eloquence and effect. 
 
 I entered the venerable pile with much reverence, 
 for the name of Knox has from boyhood been honored 
 on my lips. The identical room in which the great 
 reformer studied, and where it is safe to presume 
 many long hours were spent in silent and solemn 
 communion with the divine source from whence his 
 strength was drawn, is still shown in its original con- 
 dition or with little alteration. Within this room is 
 the pulpit which was used for his street preaching, 
 and the communion table around which his devout 
 followers were wont to unite, and from time to time, 
 re-affirm their faith and renew their zeal in the holy 
 service to which they had pledged their hands and 
 hearts. These relics carry one back to the every 
 day life of the Scotch reformers, and you almost look 
 for the modest figure of their valiant leader, he who 
 " never feared the face of man," at every opening of 
 the ponderous door. 
 
172 ST. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 It was from a comparatively small window in this 
 room, that the eager crowds in the street were often 
 addressed by Knox, and even his hard-hearted perse- 
 cutors were more than once made to weep by his 
 searching eloquence. One of Queen Mary's worst 
 charges against him, was, that he caused her to weep 
 by his plain and pointed conversation. 
 
 The stout timbers, low ceilings, and massive walls 
 all denote the great age of the building, and the 
 protestant world has reason to rejoice that it is to be 
 carefully preserved, and that the receipts from its 
 exhibition, a small fee being required of each visitor, 
 are to be given to the preaching of that word which 
 the fearless reformer so faithfully and successfully 
 dispensed. Within a few years past a neat and com- 
 modious building, called the "Knox Chapel" has 
 been erected on a lot immediately adjoining the 
 house, and as it is in a densely populated part of the 
 city it is not found difficult to secure large audiences. 
 I once attended service at this chapel, and was much 
 impressed with the solemnity of the occasion. 
 
 Not far from the " Knox Chapel" is the old palace 
 of Holy-rood, the only Royal palace of Scotland that 
 has not fallen into ruins. The chapel exhibits some 
 curious features in the enriched pointed style of 
 architecture, and in many of the rooms the antiquated 
 furniture is admirably preserved. In one of the 
 
173 
 
 towers are the Presence Chambers in which Queen 
 Mary had the well-known interview with Knox, the 
 Dressing-Room, and the small apartment adjoining it, 
 w r hich has a secret stair case leading from the chapel 
 to the palace, by which Darnley and his associates 
 entered and murdered Eizzio ; and the Bed-Chamber 
 in which is still the Queen's bed and bedding, with 
 some other relics of those days. This is by far the 
 most interesting portion of the palace, and will ever 
 remain so, from its associations with the unfortunate 
 Mary. Rizzio's blood (despite Sir "Walter Scott's 
 whimsical episode of the Brummagen Bagman and 
 his "scouring drops" in the introduction to "The 
 Chronicles of the Canon-gate,") is still shown at the 
 head of the stairs leading to the Queen's apartments : 
 his body was pierced with fifty-six wounds. 
 
 What are now known as the Royal apartments, or 
 those used by Her Majesty Victoria, and the mem- 
 bers of the Royal family when in Edinburgh, w r ere 
 recently re-decorated and contrast strangely enough 
 with the other portions of the superannuated building. 
 Her Majesty not unfrequently tarries here on her 
 way to and from the Highlands. 
 
 After Sir Walter Scott I will not presume to speak 
 of the Canon-gate with its historic associations, and 
 present interest, save to say that I have in many 
 strolls through its still bustling limits, found it diffi- 
 
174 
 
 ST. PAULS TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 cult to realize its former glory. Where are the 
 crowds that gathered anon to applaud, and then to 
 insult the heroic Knox, himself the same alike in 
 prosperity and adversity, in sunshine and in storm ? 
 Where are the actors of whom Scott's chronicles pre- 
 serve so vivid a picture ? Where is the amiable Sir 
 Walter himself, whose footsteps so often pressed the 
 rough pavement of the historic neighborhood, and 
 whose genius revelled in its legendary lore ? 
 
 Like a vigilant sentinel, the castle of Edinburgh 
 frowns from its lofty height, alike upon the plebian 
 hordes of the Canon-gate and the lordly throngs of 
 Princess-street. From every point in the consolida- 
 ted city it is impressively prominent. I can compare 
 it to no fortified building I have seen ? excepting 
 Stirling Castle, to which it bears a close resemblance. 
 From 1707 to 1818, a long and eventful century, the 
 massive regalia of Scotland slumbered within one of 
 its inner chambers, its whereabouts unknown even to 
 the citizens of Edinburgh, and only discovered by a 
 fortuitous circumstance. The royal baubles are now 
 shown with evident pride, and constitute the chief 
 interior attraction of the fortress. From the lofty 
 parapets of the outer-walls the survey of Edinburgh 
 and all the country round is such as to well repay the 
 tedious ascent of the castle hill, and the united cities 
 are remarkably fortunate in possessing many admir- 
 
"mine own romantic town." 175 
 
 able points for viewing their rare beauty of local- 
 ity. 
 
 It is Miss Martineau in her " Retrospect of Western 
 Travel," if I remember correctly, who says, " it would 
 be wise in travelers to make it their first business in a 
 foreign city to climb the loftiest point they can reach, 
 so as to have the scene they have to explore laid out 
 as in a living map beneath them. It is scarcely cred- 
 ible how much time is saved, and confusion of ideas 
 obviated by this means." Most heartily subscribing 
 to the doctrine, I had been in Edinburgh but a few 
 hours, ere I mounted the ramparts of the Castle, the 
 Calton Hill, the footpath on Salisbury Crags, and sat 
 composedly in Arthur's seat, whence in the felicitous 
 words of the guide book, " the old and new town are 
 seen in beautiful contrast to one another, the former 
 looking like some ancient mother of a numerous and 
 thriving progeny, placed in the chair of precedence, 
 and surrounded by her gay and youthful family." 
 So grand is the survey from either of these eminences 
 that one is never content with a single view, but can- 
 not resist the temptation to frequently clamber to 
 their peering heights, and is always abundantly 
 rewarded for his labor. Though a clever companion 
 is scarce ever an intruder, I am of the opinion that 
 one best enjoys the striking and romantic views from 
 these lofty galleries, when solitary and alone. The 
 
176 st. paijl's to st. sophia. 
 
 mind and eye want no interruption, not even that of 
 a friend alive to all the grandeur of the panoramic 
 scene. 
 
 How indissolubly connected with the great relig- 
 ious and philanthropic interests of Scotland, is the 
 revered name of Chalmers. How precious his mem- 
 ory to all good men. His mortal remains mingle 
 with their mother dust, in the " Southern Cemetery" 
 opened but a few weeks prior to his death and situated 
 at the grange, a singularly beautiful spot, near the old 
 town, surrounded on all sides by green fields, and 
 on the South and West by lines of well-grown forest 
 trees, that must have seen at least their century, while 
 in front it commands one of the finest views of the 
 city. Never in the memory of man did Scotland 
 witness such a funeral as that of Chalmers. " Great- 
 ness of the mere extrinsic type," says his devoted 
 friend Hugh Miller, " can alwaj^s command a showy 
 pageant ; but mere extrinsic greatness never yet 
 succeeded in purchasing the tears of a people ; and 
 the spectacle of yesterday (June 4th, 184/T,) in which 
 the trappings of grief, worn not as idle signs, but as 
 the representatives of real sorrow, were borne by well 
 nigh half the population of the metropolis, and black- 
 ened the public way for furlong after furlong, and 
 mile after mile, — was such as Scotland has rarely 
 witnessed, and which mere rank or wealth, when at 
 
" MIKE OWN ROMANTIC TOWN." 177 
 
 the highest or the fullest, were never yet able to buy. 
 It was a solemn tribute, spontaneously paid to 
 departed goodness and greatness by the public mind." 
 
 The same good authority estimates the number of 
 spectators at the funeral of the "mighty dead" at 
 rather over than under an hundred thousand persons. 
 There were few indeed, even among those who dif- 
 fered widely from many of his views, who did not 
 feel the deepest emotion at the remembrance of his 
 great and eminent merit. His actions, his efforts, and 
 his written works, have all too deeply impressed the 
 public mind to ever be forgotten. 
 
 I was glad to gain an interview with his son-in-law, 
 the Rev. Dr. Hanna, now a prominent minister of the 
 Free Church in Edinburgh, and by whose advice I am 
 going to study the comparatively unknown but really 
 wonderful mountain scenery of the Isle of Skye — 
 which he thinks will in a few short years, or so soon 
 as rightly appreciated, be one of the most popular 
 summer resorts on the coast of Scotland. 
 
 Many of the more noted ecclesiastical structures 
 are in the old town. Here, on High Street, is the 
 High Church or Cathedral of St. Giles, the tutelary 
 Saint of Edinburgh, In the reign of James II., Pres- 
 ton of Gorton got possession of the arm-bone of the 
 saint, which he bequeathed to this cathedral, where it 
 
 was kept among the treasures of the church until the 
 
 8* 
 
178 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 Reformation, when with a deal more superstitious 
 trumpery it was thrown to the four winds. The 
 building contains three places of worship. The divi- 
 sion called the High Church has a gallery w r ith 
 a throne and canopy for the Sovereign, which is used 
 by the Lord High Commissioner to the General 
 Assembly when attending divine service during the 
 sitting of that body. Eight and left of the throne are 
 pews appropriated to the magistrates of the city, who 
 appear there on Sabbath in their robes, and the 
 Judges of the Courts of Session and Exchequer, also 
 in their robes. The musical bells of the cathedral 
 are rung every day from one to two o'clock P. M., 
 the ringer being paid from a fund left for the purpose 
 by a generous resident of the city. 
 
 In the ground between the church and the court- 
 houses were interred the remains of John Knox, and 
 within the cathedral repose the bodies of JRegent 
 Murray, who was shot at Linlithgow in 1570, and the 
 great Marquis of Montrose, who was beheaded in 
 1650. On the outer wall facing the High Street, is a 
 mural tablet, pointing out the family burying-ground 
 of Napier of Merchistan, the celebrated inventor of 
 the logarithms. The Parliament House is hard by, 
 and full of interest; and far down the street is 
 the " Tron Church " where Chalmers preached. 
 
 On Sabbath 1 went to hear the Rev. Thomas 
 
" MINE OWN EOMANTIC TOWN." 179 
 
 Guthrie, D.D., whose writings are not unknown in 
 America, and who is here esteemed as one of the 
 leading preachers of the Free Church. His chapel, 
 called " St. John's," is very near Victoria Hall, 
 a building erected for the meetings of the General 
 Assembly, or Convocation of the Church of Scotland, 
 and the spire of which is two hundred and forty-one 
 feet high, and esteemed the most symmetrical of its 
 kind, excepting (says the guide-book) that of Grace 
 Church, New York. 
 
 Dr. Guthrie reminded me not a little of Dr. Duff, 
 whose visit to America will ever be remembered. 
 He is the same order of man — physically, if not men- 
 tally. His practical discourse was made the more 
 impressive by the strange gestures of his long swing- 
 ing arms, and a broad dialect more forcible than 
 mellifluous. But while eminent as a minister and 
 theological writer, he is quite as well known for his 
 long and assiduous labors in behalf the destitute 
 children and youth of Edinburgh. " Dr. Guthrie's 
 original Ragged Industrial School " in Ramsay Lane, 
 (so called from the house of Allen Ramsey the poet, 
 adjoining) is one of the most interesting and useful 
 institutions in all Scotland. It has been (1854) nearly 
 eight years in operation, and every year the Direc- 
 tors, in reporting on their progress, have done so 
 with increasing satisfaction. I have visited the estab- 
 
180 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 lishment, and would that it had a counterpart in 
 every destitute section of this and all other great 
 cities. It is in some respects superior to any of the 
 industrial schools in London, and in its every depart- 
 ment reflects the highest credit upon its patriotic 
 founder and intelligent management. The children 
 appear in excellent health and spirits, and there is a 
 cheering air of industry, comfort and happiness* 
 throughout the building. From the Seventh Annual 
 Report, lately issued, and kindly handed me by the 
 Superintendent, I glean a few. suggestive statistics : 
 
 One of the best evidences of the discipline of a 
 school is the average daily attendance. In the pres- 
 ent instance, the average numbers on the roll being 
 304, the average daily attendance was 250. The av- 
 erage number of absentees was 74 ; but of these 24 
 were absent on account of sickness, leaving 30 as the 
 number which represent the daily amount of truan- 
 tage whether forced or voluntary. It is worthy of re- 
 mark that in calculating the average attendance, the 
 Sundays are included, on which days the attendance 
 is alwa3 r s somewhat smaller than on the other days 
 
 * It is no less interesting than instructive to know that the Cholera, which 
 committed such ravages among the poor in Newcastle, did not attack one of the 
 children at the Ragged Industrial School of that town. The only means of 
 prevention were — wholesome food, cleanliness, warm clothing, and well-venti 
 lated school-rooms. 
 
"mine own romantic town." 181 
 
 of the week. The difference in the average being as 
 230 on the Sundays to 260 on the week-days. 
 
 The most serious difficulties to be contended with, 
 in securing regular attendance, are twofold ; 1st, The 
 utter indifference, or worse, of many of the parents in 
 reference to this matter ; and, 2d, The strong errant 
 propensity which the majority of the children exhibit 
 on their first admission, and especially those children 
 who are sent to school by the magistrate, and over 
 whom there is, at present, no legal power of deten- 
 tion. In the majority of cases, no doubt, the moral 
 power exerted in the school regimen ultimately pre- 
 vails ; but were the legal power referred to possessed 
 by the School officials, it is confidently believed that 
 the regular attendance of all these unfortunates 
 would be secured. The subject of the treatment of 
 destitute and delinquent children has been recently 
 investigated by a Select Committee of the House of 
 Commons, and the Directors are glad to think that 
 there is a high probability that the want of power re- 
 ferred to will be supplied during the next Session of 
 Parliament. 
 
 The following table exhibits the educational work 
 that has been done in the school during the year : 
 
182 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST, SOPHIA. 
 BOYS' SCHOOL. 
 
 Number at present on the Roll, 110. 
 
 Unable to read 
 
 Could read a little 
 
 Could read tolerably 
 
 Could read well 
 
 Total 
 
 Unable to write 
 
 Could write a little , 
 
 Could write tolerably 
 
 Could write well , 
 
 Total. , 
 
 Could do nothing in arithmetic 
 
 Could do a little 
 
 Proficient in elementary rules. 
 
 Total 
 
 When 
 Admitted. 
 
 Present 
 Date. 
 
 60 
 20 
 20 
 10 
 
 5 
 14 
 
 28 
 63 
 
 no 
 
 110 
 
 102 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 55 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 31 
 
 110 
 
 110 
 
 104 
 6 
 
 61 
 36 
 13 
 
 110 
 
 110 
 
 GIRLS' SCHOOL. 
 
 Number at present on the Roll, 91. 
 
 When 
 Admitted. 
 
 Present 
 Date. 
 
 Unable to read 
 
 73 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 10 
 27 
 36 
 
 Could read a little 
 
 Could read tolerably 
 
 Could read well 
 
 Total 
 
 91 
 
 91 
 
 Unable to write 
 
 88 
 
 o 
 14 
 
 50 
 13 
 14 
 14 
 
 Could write a little 
 
 Could write tolerably 
 
 Could write well , 
 
 Total 
 
 91 
 
 91 
 
 Could do nothing in arithmetic 
 
 91 
 
 51 
 40 
 
 Could do a little , 
 
 Proficient in elementary rules 
 
 Total 
 
 91 
 
 91 
 
 
 
 
"mine own komantic town." 183 
 
 Of the Industrial training the following table is 
 given : 
 
 Number of Boys employed in tailor's shop 
 
 " " " in shoemaker's do 
 
 " " " in carpenter's do 
 
 " " " in boxmaker's do 
 
 " " " in bracemaker's do 
 
 Younger boys employed in hair-teasing and other simple work. 
 
 Total 
 
 10 
 5 
 
 4 
 30 
 12 
 49 
 
 Number of Girls learning to knit. 
 
 " " to sew.. 
 
 62 
 91 
 
 Number of Girls who take their turn in washing 
 
 " " who have regularly done kitchen work 
 
 « lt who take their turn in cleaning the school-rooms . . . 
 
 30 
 36 
 60 
 
 Number of Girls employed daily in assisting in the Kitchen 
 
 " " in washing the rooms three times a week.. 
 
 " " in washing their own and the boys' clothes 
 
 once a week 
 
 3 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 Another Table exhibits the amount and the finan- 
 cial value of the work done in the School during the 
 bygone year. It appears as if several of the depart- 
 ments had been self-supporting, and in one sense they 
 have been so, for they have paid their own expenses. 
 But in another sense, they have not been self-support- 
 ing ; for the profits realised from them are fractions 
 when compared with the sum paid for the education 
 and support of those from whose labor they were 
 derived. The difference between these profits and 
 the whole sum paid for the management and support 
 of the school is the price of the education and train- 
 
184 st. paul's to st. sophia* 
 
 ing which the children have received ; and viewing 
 the matter financially, all that can be said of it is that 
 the Industrial Department of the Boys' School, after 
 paying its own expenses, aided to the extent of £20 
 in meeting the general expenditure of the Institution. 
 In doing this it has done much. 
 
 The moral training of the scholars is carefully 
 looked to, the Bible being the daily text book. 
 
 Some £1,400 have lately been subscribed toward 
 purchasing an Industrial Farm for the school, which 
 will greatly add to its usefulness. Many touching 
 incidents of the gratitude of the poor little ones 
 already rescued from want and misery by its kindly 
 instrumentalities are recorded on the reports, and 
 pleasant recollections of my visit to Ramsey Lane 
 and its noble charity will be ever associated with my 
 sojourn in the Scottish capital. 
 
 On the same Sabbath that I listened to the fervent 
 Guthrie, I heard Dr. Candlish, another noted Free 
 church pastor. At precisely the announced hour the 
 Doctor and precentor entered the chapel, preceded 
 by a sexton carrying the pulpit bible and hymn book. 
 Both the Doctor and precentor were dressed in large 
 loose black gowns, such as are w T orn by the Episcopal 
 clergy. The worship was initiated by the singing of 
 a psalm to the tune of " Brook Street ;" the psalm 
 having been first read, and the tune announced by 
 
"mine own bomantic town." 185 
 
 the Doctor. The clerk who sat immediately beneath 
 the pulpit was an agreeable looking young man, and 
 started the tunes in good style, and stood during the 
 whole singing. The audience, which was large and 
 highly intelligent though very plain, joined in the 
 singing with hearty good will, and I thought the 
 music superior to much of a more artistic cast to 
 which I had listened in the English Churches. 
 
 Dr. Candlish is a nervous, powerful preacher, some- 
 what singular, but certainly very impressive in his 
 manner. He has been prominent in the history of 
 the Free church movement and is classed among the 
 foremost of its many able and eloquent defenders. 
 
 Outside the walls of church or chapel, I have atten- 
 ded a very curious religious meeting. It was held in 
 one of the large public halls, and was convened to lis- 
 ten to a debate or controversy on Romanism vs. Prot- 
 estantism. Neither of the disputants were educated 
 men, or men of much note, yet they were well 
 informed on the various cardinal points at issue, and 
 the emphatic manner in which they expressed them- 
 selves, seemed to vastly delight the auditory, which 
 was composed of very plain people about equally 
 divided in their sympathies, as they clamorously 
 evinced by their vociferous applause at the more pal- 
 pable hits of their favorite disputant. At one time 
 the excitement ran so high that a riot appeared 
 
186 
 
 imminent, but no blows were exchanged, and at a 
 late hour with an agreement to meet again at an 
 early date, the champions and their friends retired in 
 comparative order. These popular discussions are 
 very common here, and throughout Great Britain. 
 They are often had in the open air, indeed the street 
 preachers of London spend much of their time in con- 
 troverting the fallacies of Eome, and a fierce and 
 unrelenting war is waged against the Pope. Whether 
 this course is calculated to make converts to protes- 
 tantism is a question to which, for one, I am by no 
 means ready to give an affirmative response, though 
 many prudent men believe it quite effectual. 
 
 The rooms of the Eoyal Highland Agricultural 
 Society well repay examination. There is a growing 
 taste for enlightened agriculture throughout Scotland. 
 The modest Ayrshire ploughman would hardly know 
 how to wield the improved implements now in vogue. 
 At the Annual Fair of the Eoyal Highland Society, 
 held at Berwick upon Tweed, a few r days since, there 
 were as intelligent farmers, choice cattle, fine grain' 
 and other products as at the English Fair at Lincoln, 
 which I lately attended. 
 
 Eeferring to the ploughman of Ayrshire, it would 
 perhaps be inexcusable to leave Edinburgh without 
 allusion to the enthusiasm in which his memory is 
 still held by all classes of the people. As has been 
 
"mike own komanttc town." 187 
 
 gracefully said : "Everyman's and boy's, and girl's 
 head carries snatches of Burn's songs, and can say 
 them by heart, and, what is strangest of all, never 
 learned them from a book, but from mouth to mouth." 
 
 The Burns monument near the High School is not 
 so elegant as fliat near the Doon in Ayrshire, and is 
 quite surpassed by that to Scott on Princess-street, 
 which displays much architectural taste, and rightly 
 commemorates his immense genius and literary 
 achievements. It forms an appropriate centre to the 
 united city, while Scott alone rivals Burns in the 
 hearts of the people of Edinburgh. 
 
 From the gardens surrounding the Scott monument 
 the new city with its regular and well built streets 
 presents a most inviting appearance. With less of 
 historic interest than the old city it yet boasts no 
 insignificant claim to a first rank among the great 
 cities of Great Britain. 
 
 There is indeed a classic air about the very streets, 
 and one instinctively feels himself in contact with a 
 scholarly and refined people. A visit to the art 
 galleries and other institutions materially adds to the 
 favorable impression. 
 
 A place of decided interest is the spacious book- 
 store of the Messrs. Blackwood, whose venerable mag- 
 azine is equally a favorite on both sides the Atlantic, 
 
188 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 and has for more than a generation past enlisted the 
 best literary talent, of all lands. 
 
 Of the many extensive and elegant stores and shops, 
 I have been most taken with those where the High- 
 land plaids, tartans, and tweeds are sold. You know 
 each Scottish clan has its peculiar tartan and adheres 
 to it with great tenacity. The tartans are of Saxony 
 wool and spun silk, and are often very rich and costly. 
 They are not however worn on all occasions except 
 by a few who will listen to no innovation in dress. 
 There are also shops expressly for the sale of what is 
 termed Highland jewellery, which appears to include 
 snuff-boxes, segar cases, and an hundred other articles 
 of every day use, all tastefully manufactured in wood 
 colored in .keeping with the various tartans. 
 
AN EVENING WITH HUGH MILLER* 
 
 Having found from several attempts that it was 
 quite impracticable to secure an interview with Mr. 
 Miller (who of all living Scotchmen, I most desired 
 to know), at the office of the Witness, I accepted a 
 kind invitation to spend the evening at his surburban 
 residence, " Shrubmount," some five or six miles from 
 the city. Starting just at sun down the ride by coach 
 in the cool of the evening over an excellent road and 
 'mid scenery the most picturesque, was exceedingly 
 pleasant. My open air companions, for I had taken 
 an outside seat, were chiefly tradesmen and clerks, 
 who, unlike their more fortunate professional and 
 mercantile brethren, had been unable to escape 
 
 " The heartless city, with its forms, and dull routine," 
 
 until the close of the day. They were however in 
 much good humor, and to the timely courtesy of one 
 
 * It may add to the interest of this sketch to state that the interview it 
 recounts was had but a short time prior to Mr. Miller's melancholy death. 
 
 (189) 
 
190 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 or two who sat nearest me, I was indebted for a grat- 
 ifying description of the various points of interest in 
 the charming region through which our ambitious 
 team whirled us with surprising speed. As we passed 
 beyond the Calton Hill with its imposing monuments, 
 and 'neath the ever awing shadow of Arthur's Seat, 
 the busy marine towns of Leith and Portobello opened 
 to our view, and beyond their forests of masts, lay the 
 broad, deep sea, 
 
 " The blue, the fresh, the. ever free !" 
 
 as placid as Lomond or Katrine in an August day. 
 On either side the smooth roadway, fine mansions and 
 tasteful gardens attracted my envious admiration, and 
 indeed I had scarce enumerated the teeming beauties 
 of the unrivalled panoramic view from the coach-top, 
 ere the heavy vehicle rattled through the rough steeets 
 of Portobello, and the obliging driver delivered me 
 at. the very gate of Shrubmount, the comfortable yet 
 altogether unostentatious home of the distinguished 
 man who, with certainly far more of genuine respect 
 than idle curiosity, I so longed to meet. 
 
 A gentle tap at the bell soon brought a smiling 
 lassie by whom I was ushered into the presence of 
 Mrs. Miller, a lady in every way worthy her estima- 
 ble husband, and whose face, though long years have 
 past, retains not a little of that " waxen clearness of 
 
AN EVENING WITH HUGH MILLER. 191 
 
 complexion" which the Cromaty poet so admired 
 when like " a fair child rather than a grown woman" 
 she " came hurriedly tripping down the garden-walk." 
 All the romance of the curious courtship which ulti- 
 mately made her Mrs. Miller came to my mind, as 
 announcing my name and place of residence, I was 
 given a true Highland welcome, such as Burns irrev- 
 erently commemorates : 
 
 " When death's dark stream I ferry o'er, 
 A time that surely shall come ; 
 In heaven itself I ask no more, 
 Than just a Highland welcome." 
 
 Mrs. Miller, herself an accomplished writer and 
 scholar, was quite ready to converse intelligently 
 upon American affairs, and I had a delightful chat 
 ere Mr, Miller came in from the Museum building in 
 process of erec ion within the Shrubmount grounds. 
 To this structure he was giving much devoted atten- 
 tion in the expectation of securing a place of safe 
 keeping for the many rare and valuable geological 
 specimens accumulated in his passionate fondness of 
 the noble science which, while yet a boy, he so suc- 
 cessfully studied among the pebbles of the Cromarty 
 shore.* 
 
 Shrubmount is within the precincts of Portobello, 
 
 * I afterwards found some of Mr. Miller's first collected specimens in an 
 unpretending museum at Stromness in the Orkneys. 
 
192 
 
 ST. PAULS TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 a favorite sea-side resort of the citizens of Edinburgh, 
 and Mrs. Miller told me her good husband had 
 secured the place, which is quite aside from the bath- 
 ing grounds, purely for its seclusion and amplitude of 
 land. There is certainly much space, and room for 
 the most extended improvements, and Mr. Miller 
 undoubtedly has it in view to here establish a home 
 stead worthy his illustrious name and fame. 
 
 Mr. Miller's entrance was with an apology for 
 having detained me, and a hope that " Lydia" (Mrs. 
 Miller) had given me a hearty welcome to Shrub- 
 mount, " where from his close application in Edin- 
 burgh, he was only able to receive his friends, and 
 then sometimes too fatigued to rightly entertain 
 them." 
 
 After hastily reading my letters of introduction 
 from several of his American acquaintances, he sat 
 himself close beside me, and began an earnest and 
 minute inquiry regarding the geological peculiarities 
 of the United States, and especially of the State of 
 New York. " Pray how far are you from the great 
 forests of which I have heard so much ?" asked he with 
 a broad Scotch accent, and ere I could reply, with 
 boyish eagerness he exclaimed, " Ah ! how I should 
 like to see your great rivers and mountains." 
 
 And then with almost breathless attention he 
 listened for many minutes to my humble description 
 
AN EVENING WITH HUGH MILLEK. 193 
 
 of some of the more marked geographical features of 
 the different States of the Union. 
 
 " Tour great country has many geological won- 
 ders/' he remarked, as I paused for any comment he 
 might offer. " Ah !" he continued, " I do indeed wish 
 I might study them, and your enterprising people." 
 u Will you not come then," I replied, " the journey is 
 now made comparatively short and safe, and all 
 America would gladly welcome you; indeed," I 
 added, (as was the fact,) " I have now with me an invi- 
 tation for you to give a series of your instructive 
 geological lectures under the auspices of an associa- 
 tion in Kew Tork — come, and we will give you large 
 audiences, and practical proof of our admiration of 
 ' The old Red-sand stone,' and your other works, as 
 well known throughout the new world as here in 
 your native Scotland." " But," he naively answered, 
 " I am too busy here, — Edinburgh gives me editorial 
 work enough — to say nothing of my attention to 
 geology — I can't go to America, it's of no use to think 
 of it — I have not the time." " But you really need 
 relaxation, and as you have well said, we have many 
 geological wonders that would delight you." 
 
 Here Mrs. Miller interposed and made several 
 
 suspicious inquiries regarding the streets of New York. 
 
 She had heard marvellous stories of their iilth, and 
 
 wondered if they were true and the city healthy. It 
 
 9 
 
194 
 
 was no easy task to conscientiously evade a direct 
 reply, which must certainly have been derogatory to 
 the sanitary regulations of the American metropolis. 
 Mrs. Miller also expressed a doubt as to the comforts 
 of a sea voyage, and in this was joined by her hus- 
 band, who jokingly thought " he was too cumbersome 
 for ocean travel." They both, however, evinced no 
 little admiration of our broad republic, its free institu- 
 tions and happy people, but the evening's conversa- 
 tion was mainly upon its geological formations, and 
 fossiliferous remains. Nearly every query put to me 
 by Mr. Miller was expressive of his favorite science, 
 although he is equally at home upon other scientific 
 subjects, and upon the great political, religious, phi- 
 lanthropic, and educational questions of the day, and 
 everywhere honored as the defender of revealed truth, 
 and the champion of the church of his fathers. 
 
 "When the ever memorable contest in the church of 
 Scotland had come to a close by the decision of the 
 House of Lords in the Auchterader case, Mr. Miller's 
 celebrated letter to Lord Brougham attracted the par- 
 ticular attention of the party which was about to 
 leave the Establishment, and he was selected as the 
 most competent person to conduct the Witness, the 
 principal metropolitan organ of the Free Church. 
 The great success which this journal has met is owing 
 
AN EVENING WITH HUGH MILLER. 195 
 
 doubtless, to the fine articles, political, ecclesiastical, 
 and geological which Mr. Miller has written for it.* 
 
 If, as in his own words, he was " but a slim, loose- 
 jointed boy, fond of the pretty intangibilities of 
 romance, and of dreaming when broad awake, " he is 
 now a stout wide-shouldered man, of fine physical 
 presence, though of far from ruddy health. When 
 recently lecturing in Exeter Hall he was obliged to 
 keep his chair during the evening, and it is painfully 
 true that toilsome devotion to the various duties rest- 
 ing upon him, apart from his intense application to 
 geological study has seriously undermined his sturdy 
 Highland constitution. It was with much of sincere 
 regret at this too obvious fact, that I left Shrub- 
 mount and bade adieu to him, who to say nothing 
 of his other masterly achievements, has by his 
 own unaided energies, and while yet in the prime of 
 life, rendered himself, " first among his countrymen 
 in an interesting and important department of Natural 
 Science, to which there is no aristocratic or royal 
 road." 
 
 * Prof. Agassiz' Memoir. 
 
THE BIRTHPLACE OF THOMSON. 
 
 Though I have been to the " land o' Burns," and 
 studied the manifold attractions of Abbottsford, I pass 
 them by to give yon some account of a visit to Ednam, 
 the birth-place of Thomson, immortal as the author of 
 " The Seasons," the " Castle of Indolence," and 
 " Liberty," for the reason that while every tourist in 
 Scotland writes elaborately of Burns and Scott, com- 
 paratively few make allusion to their illustrious com- 
 peer whose name shonld be equally precious to all 
 lovers of true poetry. The glowing admiration in 
 which he was held by Burns is perpetuated in the 
 manly and graceful poetic tribute beginning with the 
 stanza : 
 
 li When virgin Spring, "by Eden's flood, 
 Unfolds her tender mantle green, 
 Or pranks the sod in frolic mood, 
 Or turns iEolian strains "between." 
 
 The train took me from Edinburgh to Kelso on the 
 Tweed, or at the junction of the Tweed and Teviot, in 
 (196) 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 197 
 
 a fine fertile plain, and near to the tract of country- 
 called the " Merse." Nothing can exceed the 
 beauty of this neighborhood, which abounds with 
 wood and water, and is adorned with all that 
 wealth, taste and industry can bestow. The 
 venerable structure of " Kelso Abbey" one of the old- 
 est in Scotland, is a fine specimen of the purest Saxon, 
 and well worthy the attention of the artist and anti- 
 quarian. The only son of King David I. and many 
 other illustrious persons are interred within the walls 
 of the Abbey, and it was here that Henry III. of 
 England and his Queen, met Alexander III. of Scot- 
 land and his Queen, on which occasion history tells 
 us, that great pomp and splendor were displayed. 
 In 1460, James III. was crowned in Kelso Abbey. 
 It frequently suffered from the hostile incursions of 
 the English, and was demolished in 1569, at the time of 
 the Keformation. At which period it passed, by grant, 
 with all its possessions, to the Duke of Eoxburgh. 
 The environs of Kelso are happily painted in Ley- 
 den's " Scenes of Infancy :" 
 
 " Bosom'd in wood where mighty rivers run, 
 Kelso's fair vale expands before the sun, 
 Its rising downs in vernal beauty swell, 
 And fringed with hazel, winds each flowery dell, 
 Green spangled plains to dimpling lawns succeed, 
 And Tempe rises on the banks of Tweed ; 
 Blue o'er the river Kelso's shadow flies, 
 And copse-clad isles amid the waters rise." 
 
198 st. paul ? s to st. sophia. 
 
 In 1787 Burns made a tour on horseback through 
 this country,* which strongly interested his fancy. 
 His journal contains frequent reference to the 
 " enchanting views and prospects on both sides of the 
 Tweed." 
 
 Two-and-a-half miles to the north-east of Kelso, and 
 three miles from the border, is Ednam, one of the 
 most retired and humble villages in Southern Scot- 
 land. Aside from the great thoroughfares, and far 
 from the smoke and confusion of the manufacturing 
 districts, it presents a picture of exquisite rural quiet, 
 to whose honest and peaceful denizens, 
 
 " Contentment gives a crown, 
 Where fortune hath denied it." 
 
 I found the wayside cottagers mainly ignorant of 
 Thomson or his works, and it is remarkable that while 
 Burns and Scott o'ershadow the whole country, and 
 their poems are household words alike in palace and 
 cabin, the gifted author of the "Seasons," whose 
 works are equally well-known and admired in Amer- 
 ica, is scarcely remembered in many parts of his 
 native land. It is true he spent much of his time in 
 England, yet this is no good reason why he should be 
 forgotten in the " land o 5 cakes." 
 
 The walk to Ednam, for on such excursions I 
 
 * Called by Beattie » the Arcadian ground of Scotland." 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 199 
 
 usually prefer to depend upon my perambulatory pow- 
 ers — was through a winding pleasant country road, 
 environed by flowery meadows and thrifty gardens, the 
 varied beauty of which was much enhanced by the mel- 
 low summer sun and exceeding stillness on every side. 
 More than once I felt the aptness of the poet's own 
 exclamation : 
 
 " These are the haunts of meditation, these 
 The scenes where ancient hards, the inspiring breath 
 Extatic felt." 
 
 Just fairly out of Kelso village I passed a park 
 over the superb stone gate-way to which is inscribed : 
 
 " Erected by the inhabitants of Kelso in testimony of their respect for Mrs. 
 Robertson of Ednam House, and of their gratitude for her munificent gift." 
 
 , I had not time to enter its tempting precincts, but 
 pressed forward, and soon on a graceful slope to my 
 right saw what I presumed must be the monument 
 to Thomson, and on my left the scattering cottages 
 composing the village of his birth. The vale of 
 Ednam is distinguished for its quiet beauty, and as I 
 crossed the tiny river Eden, which Burns with poetic 
 license calls " Eden's flood," I paused before entering 
 the village, to admire the singular loveliness of the 
 peaceful scene — a scene I can never forget. 
 
 The one long street of which the village of Ednam 
 is composed, is lined with thatched cottages of the 
 humblest order : indeed, I noticed but one or two 
 
200 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 pretentious houses. There is the usual village school- 
 house, and as if to make the scene complete, a smoky- 
 shop, where the blacksmith 
 
 " Bares his sinewy arm, 
 And early strokes the sounding anvil warm." 
 
 I had no difficulty in finding the manse, and Mr. 
 Lamb, the rector, to whom I had been directed as the 
 proper person to give me all the information I sought, 
 received me with the warmth of an old friend. I 
 was instantly at home in his comfortable library, and 
 lost no time in broaching the object of my visit. He 
 was quite as enthusiastic in Thomson's memory as I 
 could desire. After assuring me the house in which 
 the poet was born had been torn down, and the 
 school-house erected upon its site, he pointed to the 
 new church, upon the spot where stood the venerable 
 kirk of which the Kev. Thomas Thomson, the poet's 
 father, was long the faithful pastor. The new build- 
 ing is as uncouth a specimen of church architecture 
 as I have seen in all Scotland, a fact to be regretted 
 the more for the interesting associations by which its 
 locality is surrounded 
 
 Mr. Lamb kindly produced for my inspection, the 
 old church records, which were commenced as early 
 as 1666. This entry remains in a clear bold hand : 
 
 1693, September 9th. This day, Mr. Thomas Thomson, minister of Ednam, 
 and Beatrix Trotter, in the parish of Kelso, gave up their names for proclama- 
 tion in order to marriage." 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 201 
 
 In 1697 there is mention of the baptism of a son 
 (Alexander), the result of this marriage, and in 1699 
 (January 4) of a daughter called Isabel if but by far 
 the most interesting is the following : 
 
 " 1700. Mr. Thomas Thomson's son James, baptized September 15th." 
 
 By this it appears that the future poet was baptized 
 when but four days old, having been born on the 11th 
 of the same month. He was educated at Jedburgh 
 school, then kept in the aisle of Jedburgh Church, 
 and went from there, in March, 1715, to the Univer- 
 sity of Edinburgh, being intended for the church. 
 An essay on " Country Life," written by him while 
 at the University, shows how early the love of rural 
 scenery and pursuits took possession of his mind. 
 
 When in 1725 he sailed from Leith to try his 
 fortune in London, Dr. Johnson says : " His first 
 want was a pair of shoes ;" and adds, that " he had 
 many letters of introduction ; but having tied them 
 up in a handkerchief, they were stolen from him — an 
 accident sufficiently disastrous to a young stranger in 
 the metropolis, to explain his condition." But with 
 all his hard fortune, the early death- of his father, his 
 want of means and other sore troubles, he sang so 
 sweetly that his name soon became familiar to culti- 
 vated ears, and the world, while he yet trod its mazy 
 
 * There were nine children in all. 
 
 9* 
 
202 st. paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 paths, began to shower upon him the honors his 
 memory now so universally enjoys. His life was on 
 the whole much less chequered and sorrowful than 
 that of Burns or even Scott. 
 
 There are many quaint entries in the old church 
 records at Ednam. The following, which Mr. Lamb 
 kindly allowed me to transcribe, speaks well for the 
 church discipline : 
 
 " September ye 6, 1G85. 
 
 This day after prayer Roger Dickson being summoned and cited, composed 
 and said that he had called John Dickson's wife and Marion Dedds witch-birds, 
 but would not be convinced that it was a fault, being removed ye Elders now 
 consulted what their censure should do : which was unanimously ordered that 
 he should stand during ye whole of ye sermon at ye pillar. And after sermon 
 to confess his fault. And to beg God and the people's pardon. And particu- 
 larly the persons offended ; he refusing from ye sentence is referred to the 
 judge." 
 
 This reminds me of a passage in the records of the 
 parish of Cortachy, in the county of Forfar, which 
 runs thus : 
 
 " No sermon at Cortachy this day, the minister being at Clova, at the trial 01 
 a witch." 
 
 On the 7th of January, 1853, a person called on 
 Mr. Lamb, and stated that he wished to have the 
 parish register searched with a view to ascertaining 
 whether the birth or baptism of one James Cook was 
 recorded therein ; or in other words, he wanted evi- 
 dence that the Parish of Ednam was the birth-place 
 of the father of the renowned Captain Cook, the hero 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 203 
 
 of our school-boy days. The person's name was 
 Cook, and he claimed relationship to the intrepid 
 voyager, and assured Mr. Lamb it had always been 
 the belief of the family that the said James Cook 
 came from this part of the country, and on leaving it 
 had taken up his residence at Ayton in Berwickshire, 
 and subsequently at Martin, Cleveland, where the 
 future captain was born. Mr. Lamb was not a little 
 surprised to find in the records the following entry 
 fully confirming the accuracy of the family tradition : 
 
 " 1693. Dec. 24. John Cooke in this parish and Jean Duncane in the parish of 
 Simaillhume, gave up their names for proclamation in order to marriage. A 
 certificate was produced of her good behaviour. 
 
 " John Cooke and Jane Duncane were married Jan. 16, 1694." 
 
 Mr. Lamb also subsequently ascertained that John 
 Cooke, the father of James Cooke and grandfather of 
 the Captain, was an elder in Ednam parish in 1692. 
 Rev, Thomas Thomson, being then the parish minister. 
 
 As I admired the rich landscape view from the 
 windows of the manse, Mr. Lamb directed my atten- 
 tion to an aged elm in a garden hard by, such an one 
 as Hood sung of : 
 
 " A goodly elm of noble girth, 
 That, thrice the human span- 
 While on their variegated course 
 The constant seasons ran— 
 Through gale, and hail, and fiery bolt, 
 Has stood erect as man." 
 
204 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 This noble tree is in girth at the ground 23 feet, 
 and at the height of 10 feet where the first large 
 branch springs, 10 feet, and at the height of nearly 25 
 feet where the second large branch springs, 9 feet. 
 It is nearly 60 feet in height, and its branches spread 
 over some 25 yards in circumference. The trunk is 
 sculptured with ridges like a cork tree, and orna- 
 mented with some fine tufts of polyjpones sqiremosus. 
 It is safe to presume that beneath the leafy canopy of 
 this old hereditary tree the gentle poet of Ed nam 
 passed many of the innocent hours of his infancy, 
 though at a very early age he removed to Ancrum, 
 and here too perhaps, the pious ancestor of the famous 
 ocean navigator may have found a grateful shelter 
 from the sultry sun of refulgent summer. 
 
 Reluctantly leaving the time honored manse of 
 Ednam, and the truly Christian courtesy of its intelli- 
 gent rector, I silently retraced my steps toward Kelso. 
 Crossing the musical Eden on the dry stones, above 
 the water mark, I soon came in sight of the Thomson 
 monument, and could not resist a closer inspection of 
 it, than was to be had from the road side, though at 
 the risk of being seized as a poacher upon the highly 
 cultivated field through which I forced my way to its 
 modest inclosure. The tall waving grain was quite 
 as high as my head, and white for the harvest. I 
 found the monument a plain affair, not to be com- 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 205 
 
 pared with those to Burns and Scott, and the 
 enclosure over-run with shrubbery less choice than 
 luxuriant, and evidently sadly neglected. A very 
 little care would make the spot far more neat and 
 creditable. 
 
 On one side of the cenotaph, which is a four sided 
 cone thirty feet high, of drab stone, is this inscrip- 
 tion : 
 
 ERECTED 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 JAMES THOMSON, 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE SEASONS, 
 BORN AT EDNAM, 
 llTH SEPTEMBER, A. D. 1700. 
 
 Thomson died at Richmond, near London, on the 
 27th of August, 1748, having within a few days com- 
 pleted his forty-eighth year. He was buried in 
 Richmond Church, where there is a small brass 
 tablet with the following inscription, no word of 
 which can be said to exaggerate his merits : 
 
206 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 In the earth below this tablet 
 
 are the remains of 
 
 JAMES THOMSON, 
 
 Author of the beautiful poems entitled, 
 
 " The Seasons" the " Castle of Indolence," etc., 
 
 who died at Richmond 
 
 on the 27th of August 
 
 and was buried 
 
 On the 29th O. S. 1748. 
 
 The Earl of Bucham 
 
 unwilling that 
 
 So good a Man and so sweet a Poet, 
 
 Should be without a memorial, 
 
 has denoted the place of his interment, 
 
 for the satisfaction of his Admirers, 
 
 in the year of our Lord, 
 
 MDCCXCII. 
 
 Beneath, this inscription his lordship added this 
 striking passage from " Winter :" 
 
 " Father of Light and Life ! thou God Supreme ! 
 O teach me what is good 1 teach me thyself I 
 Save me from folly, vanity, and vice, 
 From every low pursuit ! and feed my soul 
 With knowledge, conscious peace, and virtue pure ; 
 Sacred, substantial, never fading bliss !" 
 
 There is also a monument to Thomson in West- 
 minster Abbey, between those of Shakespeare and 
 Nicholas Howe, poet laureate under George the First.* 
 
 * Thomson appears sitting, leaning his left arm upon a pedestal, and holding 
 a book with the cap of liberty in his right hand. Upon the pedestal is carved 
 a bas-relief of " The Seasons," to which a boy points, oflfering him a laurel 
 crown as the reward of his genius. At the feet of the figure is a tragic mask 
 and ancient harp. The whole is supported by a projecting pedestal : and on a 
 
THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THOMSON. 207 
 
 But except to rebuke the shameless indifference of 
 some who have the honor to reside where he first saw 
 the light, there is little need of a marble pile to per- 
 petuate his exquisite works, and keep his memory 
 green : 
 
 " Nature for him assumes herself the task, 
 1 The Seasons' are his monuments of fame 
 With them to nourish, as from them it came." 
 
 Returning to Kelso I embraced the opportunity of 
 an hour's leisure before the departure of the train for 
 Edinburgh, to visit the St. James' Fair, held at Kelso 
 annually on the fifth of August. Crossing the Tweed 
 a short walk brought me to the grounds, which were 
 spacious and thoroughly occupied. All sorts of cattle 
 and horses were on sale, and though there were few 
 specimens of ingenious handi-work, or fine fruits or 
 flowers, as common at the American fairs, there was 
 all the bustle of busy tradesmen, of boisterous drovers, 
 of roystering horse-jockeys, of minstrels, puppet- 
 shows and drinking booths, requisite to make up a 
 successful fair, according to the old country estimate 
 of such an institution. I walked carefully through 
 
 panel is inscribed his name, age, and the date of his death , with the following 
 lines from his " Summer :" 
 
 " Tutored by thee, sweet poetry exalts 
 Her voice to ages ; and informs the page 
 With music, image, sentiment, and thoughts, 
 Never to die!" 
 
208 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the long avenues of busy traffickers, and was urgently 
 besought to buy everything, from a dray horse to one 
 of gingerbread, from a score of sheep to a mug 
 of beer. Great exuberance of spirits marked the 
 assembled crowds, and the occasion was only marred 
 by the number of intoxicated men literally lying all 
 over the grounds. I never saw one tithe of the 
 drunkenness at any fair in the States, and felt indeed 
 proud that the rum-fiend had no such undisputed 
 sway in the new world. 
 
 The locality of the fair grounds was beautiful 
 beyond description. From a rugged range of wooded 
 hills they ran across a lovely plain embracing perhaps 
 an hundred acres, to the very edge of the Tweed, 
 while just across the swift-running stream, in the 
 centre of a broad and magnificent lawn, stood " Fleurs 
 Palace," the seat of the Duke of Roxburgh, a stately 
 structure well preserved by its noble owner. As far 
 as the eye could span the fertile banks of the gentle 
 river, they were attired in nature's richest garb, and I 
 turned to the cars exclaiming, with the enamored 
 poet: 
 
 " What beauties does Flora disclose ; 
 How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed I" 
 
PAEIS AND THE EMPEKOB. 
 
 Twice have I tarried in Paris, and many were the 
 novelties presented to my observation on each occa- 
 sion. I shall never forget my first stroll up and 
 down the beautiful streets, and through the gardens 
 adjacent to the royal palace of the Louvre. The 
 grandeur of every thing around me, the gaiety of the 
 chatting multitude, the whirl of the vehicles, the 
 steady pace of the gens d'arms, and a thousand other 
 things made an indelible impression upon my mind. 
 
 Paris has never been too highly praised as a gay, 
 gorgeous metropolis. Its architectural triumphs are 
 among the choicest in the world and afford food for 
 prolonged and careful study. Its historic associations 
 render it intensely interesting to the student of the 
 wonderful in the world's transmutations. One fancies 
 he can almost see the blood in the streets, lingering 
 from the fearful revolutions so memorable among the 
 sanguinary conflicts of civil excitement. 
 (209) 
 
210 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 The bayonet has been fearfully used all about that 
 great palace of the Louvre, and no one knows how 
 soon it may again glisten in open revolution against 
 the singularist now claiming the French throne, and 
 holding it by might rather than right. 
 
 But let us hope for peace, so long as no greater 
 injustice is done to the people. They can endure the 
 Napoleon of to-day, vile as he may be politically, for 
 there are some good traits in his nature, and not the 
 least, a constant regard for the employment of the 
 working classes. This has led him to the demolition 
 of whole rows of old rookeries, the building up of 
 magnificent structures, the cutting through of new and 
 spacious avenues, and other significant improvements, 
 all adding vastly to the glory of the metropolis 
 it is true, but obviously conceived to keep laboring 
 Paris in a state of quiet, or in other words to spike 
 the guns of rebellion with bread and cheese, and thus 
 save the crown to the cunning " nephew of his uncle." 
 There is every variety of condition and life in Paris, 
 and the representatives of all classes nowhere mingle 
 so freely as in the parks. Turning into the Tuilleries 
 gardens or Champs Ely see of a sunny afternoon a 
 new world reveals itself to the observant eye. There 
 range the children laughing, chatting, singing. There 
 patrols the stiff laced guardsman. There comes the 
 witching flirt as naive as a Yankee belle, and twice as 
 
PAKIS AND THE EMPEEOS. 211 
 
 polite ! There lounge the beaux, prim and haughty, 
 Bee how they wink at yon black eyed maiden, the con- 
 fectioner's daughter of the Rue Yivienne ! 
 
 Then we meet the men and women of toil, off for 
 an hour's diversion, and as usual in the best possible 
 humor. Indeed Paris is a grand smile, a broad grin, 
 and scarce ever sad. 
 
 On the Champs Elysee, let the afternoon be fine, 
 and whole troops of horsemen, fashionable and cheer- 
 ful, fill the shaded avenues, while coach loads of ladies 
 give richer grace to the scene . 
 
 " There is no policy like politeness," says Bulwer, 
 and the shop-keepers of Paris practice it to a nicety. 
 One is apt to purchase innumerable articles by force 
 of their irresistible gentleness. Shopping is made a 
 positive luxury. In several days spent in making 
 various purchases, I have not seen an impatient or 
 ill-humored salesman or woman, and I am sure I have 
 been a tedious, if not troublesome customer. "When 
 will our American tradespeople learn the value of 
 such courteous manners ? "When they do they may 
 be sure of quick sales and large profits. 
 
 And yet withal, Paris is a soulless place. Amid 
 all the sunshine and fashion and even courtesy, nobody 
 seems to really care for you, and instinctively you 
 seem to care for nobody, while you loiter within its 
 gaudy precincts. It is a well authenticated fact that 
 
212 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 one out of every three thousand Parisians commits 
 suicide, London with all its fog — its saturating mist 
 — its narrow endless lanes — its cobwebs and soot, 
 suits me infinitely better than the glittering French 
 capital, and the sturdy, gruff Englishman with his 
 round cheek, lion voice, great heart, and marvellous 
 self-esteem, is extremely difficult to beat in all that 
 pertains to the noblest style of man. 
 
 Paris has few homes and no Sabbath ; and a city or 
 country without these seems to me like a great des- 
 ert, a barren waste, quite destitute of a relieving oasis. 
 Man wants one quiet day in the week to rest, to col- 
 lect his thoughts, to indulge in a reverie, to say noth- 
 ing of a prayer. Paris gives six days to business, 
 and the seventh to the devil — little time left for home 
 and the service of the Almighty. 
 
 I saw the Emperor and Empress this afternoon. 
 They ride out every fair day. Passing by the Seine 
 side of the Tuilleries, an irregular gathering of peo- 
 ple in the vicinity of the great gates attracted my 
 attention, and upon inquiry I found the Eoyal pair 
 were expected " out " in a few minutes. Quite ready 
 to see the show, if I could do so by waiting a short 
 time, I fell into the ranks. Soon the police stopped 
 all vehicles from passing, and just as we all strained 
 our eyes for the imperial cortege, imagine our chagrin 
 to find that it had gone out by the gate upon the Eue 
 
PARIS AND THE EMPEROR. 213 
 
 de Rivoli. A portion of the crowd ran pell-mell 
 across the gardens, a quarter of a mile, to get a 
 glimpse at the illustrious party. I have learned bet- 
 ter than to damage my boots either for an Emperor or 
 Empress. Concluding, without much hesitation, that 
 it was a court trick to avoid the outsiders, I was for the 
 moment rather out of humor, and turned off for a 
 walk along the Seine, over the bridges, and away 
 toward the gloomy JSTotre Dame. Having completed 
 my stroll, I turned toward my hotel by the Tuilleries, 
 when, nearing the gates, I saw some dozen people 
 loitering about. Presuming it was about time for 
 the third Napoleon and his lady to return from their 
 drive, I inquired of a cocked hat if the Emperor was 
 expected to enter by that gate upon bis return. He 
 replied in the affirmative ; so I sat cosily down upon 
 one of the stout stone seats, on the edge of the broad 
 sidewalk. In a moment or two the royal carriages 
 came dashing on ; the golden dress of the outriders 
 and drivers, the prancing of the spirited horses, enliv- 
 ened the scene. The Emperor and Empress rode in 
 a beautiful open barouche, drawn by four bay horses, 
 richly caparisoned. A second barouche, of nearly 
 equal elegance, contained an elderly gentleman and 
 some ladies, whose position I did not ascertain. The 
 Emperor sat at the left of the Empress. He appeared 
 careworn and tired. His mammoth moustache and 
 
214 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 goatee seemed quite out of place on a face so pale 
 and haggard. He was dressed in a plain citizen's 
 dress of black cloth, and wore a black hat. 
 
 The Empress was richly dressed, and her prominent 
 and somewhat pretty features gave her an attractive 
 and handsome appearance. She is generally admired 
 both for her beauty and gentle disposition, and is pro- 
 bably quite as much of a lady as an Empress can be. 
 
 !N"ot more than two or three dozen people were near. 
 As the carriages entered the gate, several bowed to 
 the Emperor, who raised his hat in return, but there 
 w r as no cheering, no shouts of " Vive le Emjoereur" 
 no enthusiasm of any stripe. 
 
A DAY IN GENEVA, 
 
 It was after nightfall when we reached the out- 
 skirts of the Swiss capital, and the long rows of glit- 
 tering lights lining the roads, and here and there sus- 
 pended across them in the singular continental fashion, 
 looked cheerful and inviting. A moment's halt at the 
 guard-house, an exchange of our well-worn passports 
 for the more portable " cards of leave," serviceable 
 during the continuance of our visit in the city, and on 
 we rattle over the hard smooth pavement, at a rate 
 positively startling to the reposing denizens. The 
 Diligence office is soon reached, and a busy scene 
 ensues. Boisterous porters, clerks and obtrusive beg- 
 gars, crowd around our heavy laden conveyance, the 
 great black trunks are removed from their traveling 
 quarters, we stretch our wearied limbs, fairly stiffened 
 from the long confinement in the uneasy coupe, and 
 soon bargain with a stout fellow commanding a cum- 
 berous wheel-barrow to take our luggage to the 
 (215) 
 
216 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 " Hotel des Berges," whither we turn our steps, care- 
 fully following the beautiful bridge across the "arrowy 
 Rhone," halting for an instant to admire the placid 
 countenance of the silvery lake, and the splendor of 
 its mountain, frame-work, and then enjoying the easy 
 chairs of the spacious reception room of our resting 
 place. Few hotels present better accommodations, 
 more careful attendants, or greater comfort and quiet : 
 while from every window the land and waterscape 
 looms up with impressive magnificence. Tall, rugged 
 Alpine steeps cluster in gorgeous profusion, and the 
 white-capped pinnacle of Mont Blanc, the glorious 
 old mountain monarch o'ershadows every thing with 
 royal dignity and grandeur. The sun, as though 
 proud of the privilege of gilding such imperial scenery, 
 shines with a double brilliancy, while the azure and 
 richly tinted clouds fairly smile on the sublime pano- 
 ramic picture. 
 
 Geneva may justly prize its sightly location. The 
 explored world has few combinations of natural and 
 exquisite scenery equal to that in the very heart of 
 which it has its "local habitation," and I make 
 no wonder that tourists of every clime unite in its un- 
 qualified laudation. 
 
 We slept sweetly after our long journey from Paris, 
 our hours of quick railway travel, and tiresome Dili- 
 gence experience. There were two parlors, each 
 
A DAY IN GENEVA. 217 
 
 with a pleasant fire-place, and sharp crackling wood, 
 and our rooms opened out into cosily furnished 
 corners, all plain, but delightfully neat and clean. 
 
 I have an instinctive liking for morning explora- 
 tions, and before breakfast had an experimental and 
 highly satisfactory experience with the chief streets 
 and places of the honest old capital. The market- 
 women with hearty, smiling cheeks, furrowed by time 
 and toil, but fresh with rural health and trading 
 earnestness, were out in great numerical strength, and 
 very polite. I bought pears and grapes, yellow and 
 white, ripe, rich and delicious, for a sum so trifling 
 that my companions would scaax^e believe my report. 
 We had a fruit breakfast, a fruit dinner, and munched 
 mellow pears and juicy grapes, as we rode all day in 
 our cushioned cabriolet ; for we could command but 
 little time before turning toward Turin, and it must 
 be well improved to do justice to our contemplated 
 sight-seeing. 
 
 The situation of Geneva, saving the lake and 
 Alpine scenery, is much like that of Edinburgh — 
 indeed there are two distinct cities, divided by the 
 Rhone, as its blue waters sweep toward the valleys 
 of France. They are not so widely different as the 
 old and new Edinburgh, and the march of improve- 
 ment is noticeable in many new buildings in progress 
 
 of erection. It seems to me one of the most desirable 
 
 10 
 
218 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 places of residence in Europe. The people appear 
 peaceful, cleanly, and industrious. We saw many 
 women of the poorer classes vigorously washing at the 
 washing houses on the river banks. These do not 
 extend, however, to the lake shore where there are 
 fine streets, and a beautiful park has recently been 
 laid out. 
 
 Judging from the signs and shops, a large propor- 
 tion of the residents are directly or indirectly inter- 
 ested in the manufacture of watches. We went into 
 several of the larger establishments and saw the inge- 
 nious artisans at work. The reputation of Geneva 
 watches is world-wide, and immense numbers are 
 annually sold. America is one of the most steady 
 and remunerative markets, and there is the same 
 deep interest among the manufacturing classes in our 
 national prosperity that I remarked in Sheffield and 
 other English cities. Nor is this interest solely with 
 an eye to. sordid gain. 
 
 We had, as I have intimated, but a single day for 
 Geneva and its wonders, and therefore took a cabrio- 
 let soon after breakfast, first for a ride about the city 
 and a glance at the more noted public buildings, and 
 afterward to call on various friends to whom we bore 
 letters of introduction. Just in the suburbs is the 
 sequestered residence of Dr. Caesar Malan, a patriarch 
 whose white locks and radiant face few Protestant 
 
A DAY IN GENEVA. 219 
 
 travellers are willing to miss seeing. As an earnest 
 evangelical pastor and writer, lie is widely known. 
 
 A mile or more from the business districts, on the 
 lake shore road, in commanding view of the city and 
 the Jura mountains, is the cottage home of Dr. 
 Merle D'Aubigne, literally encompassed with flower- 
 ing shrubbery and luxuriant vines. Over the door- way, 
 in accordance with an old-established custom among 
 the Swiss Christians, is the motto, " Tempe Breve," 
 and we deeply felt its too oft forgotten truth, as we 
 entered to present our introductions to the eminent 
 and honored historian of the Reformation. It was 
 said of Burke, that no one could stand under the same 
 gateway with him during a shower of rain without 
 discovering that he was an extraordinary man, and 
 ' the first sight of Dr. D'Aubigne is sufficient to satisfy 
 the most skeptical of his indisputable claim to celeb- 
 rity. I think Dr. Cheever, who has spent much time 
 in Geneva, compares his personal appearance to that 
 of the late Daniel Webster, and the simile is very 
 striking.* He is tall, erect in carriage, and has just 
 such a lofty brow, penetrating eye and dark shaggy 
 eye-brows, as had the lamented sage of Marshfield. 
 We were heartily welcomed to his study, and there 
 had an unrestrained and delightful conversation on 
 
 * Others have compared it to that of President Way land, of Brown Uni- 
 versity. 
 
220 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 Genevese and American topics. The Doctor was 
 curious to know all about the " American party" now 
 creating such a furore in the States, and gave us 
 much interesting information regarding the religious 
 and political aspects of Switzerland. He spoke indig- 
 nantly of a recent governmental insult to the Protes- 
 tant populace of Geneva, in ordering that the annual 
 election should be held upon the Sabbath and in 
 a .Roman Catholic Church, and is evidently apprehen- 
 sive of the inroads constantly being made upon the 
 established customs of the fathers, who in their day 
 a made Some tremble at the name of Geneva." 
 
 From the historian's flowery nest we returned to 
 the city, and had a brief interview with the celebrated 
 Madiai family, " sufferers for righteousness 5 sake," for 
 whom so much sympathy has been shown in America. 
 Both Monsieur and Madame are in improved health 
 after their long season of trial in Tuscany. The fresh 
 air of Switzerland, and the kind attention of devoted 
 friends, have served to cheer their troubled spirits, 
 and renew their physical strength, while, like all true 
 martyrs, their enthusiasm is in no wise abated: 
 
 " The good are better made by ill, 
 As odors crushed are sweeter still I" 
 
 They speak warmly of the affection of their Ameri- 
 can friends, but in answer to my inquiry as to 
 whether they would visit the States, Madame 
 
 ■ 
 
A DAY IN GENEVA. 221 
 
 replied that she feared she should never enjoy the 
 privilege. The husband was in the new world sev- 
 eral years since, and has a great admiration for it.* 
 
 In the afternoon R. and I drove some miles out of 
 the city to call upon Colonel Tronchan, a prominent 
 benefactor of the Waldenses, His mansion is just 
 under the shadow of Mont Blanc, and an evidence of 
 his philanthropy and well spent wealth, is shown in 
 the recent erection on a portion of his lands, and 
 entirely at his own expense, of a commodious and 
 well appointed hospital, to which I believe all worthy 
 Protestant sufferers are admitted free of charge. The 
 Colonel told us much of the Italian evangelical 
 churches, and appeared a man of clear intellect and 
 fine heart. We were over-persuaded by his courtesy 
 to remain to dinner, and were throughout most gener- 
 ously entertained. 
 
 I must not forget that in the city we were carried 
 back to the stern days of the Eeformation, by a visit 
 to the house in the Rue de Chanoines long occupied 
 by Calvin, and now by a happy coincidence the home 
 of the Young Men's Christian Association of Geneva, 
 one of the most efficient institutions of its class in all 
 
 * To-day (1860) the Duke of Tuscany is a fugitive from his kingdom, and the 
 Madiai are husily engaged in circulating the Scriptures, the Provisional Gov- 
 ernment of Tuscany having proclaimed freedom of conscience and full religious 
 liberty. 
 
222 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 Europe. The cathedral of St. Peters, where Calvin 
 preached, also remains and is still in possession of the 
 established church, the portico of the pulpit is daily 
 pointed out as a portion of the desk from whence he 
 nobly and fearlessly proclaimed the truths of the gos- 
 pel. His grave is said to have no distinguishing 
 mark, save the initials J*. 0. on a plain slab — never- 
 theless it is a Mecca to which hundreds of reverent 
 pilgrims from all quarters of the Christian world, 
 annually pay their heartfelt homage. 
 
 What an example was Calvin's to the labor-saving 
 ministry of the nineteenth century. Some have reck- 
 oned his yearly lectures to be an hundred and eighty 
 six, and his yearly sermons two hundred and eighty- 
 six, besides other labors incalculably numerous and 
 burdensome. Even in his dying illness, when his 
 friends endeavored to persuade him to rest, he replied, 
 " What ! shall my Lord come and find me idle?" 
 
CKOSSING THE ALPS. 
 
 After a delicious sleep, we left Geneva at nine 
 o'clock in the morning, the weather being agreeably 
 clear and cool, for Turin, via Chambery and Mount 
 Cenis. Yery beautiful are the environs of Geneva, 
 with their snowy Alpine and Jura framework. We 
 were loth to proceed from the splendrous mountain 
 pictures unfolded to our gaze at each advancing mile, 
 and found no language competent to give expression 
 to our admiration of their exquisite and imposing 
 grandeur. For one I am quite ready to accept the 
 poetic theory : 
 
 " Who first beholds the Alps— that mighty chain 
 Of mountains, stretching on from east to west, 
 So massive, yet so shadowy, so ethereal, 
 As to belong rather to heaven than earth — 
 But instantly receives into his soul 
 A sense, a feeling that he loses not— 
 A something that informs him 'tis a moment 
 Whence he may date henceforward and forever." 
 
 What constitutes an exceedingly impressive feature 
 (223) 
 

 224 BT. PAIJl/s TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 of the Alps, is their imposing continuity, and their 
 striking contrast with the mellow, sunny, fruitful 
 plains at their feet. One is constantly surprised at 
 the proximity of winter and summer, the bleak and 
 the mild, the gentle and the austere. The Alps in 
 Labrador would be robbed of half their charms. 
 
 But despite the sublime scenery, the diligence car- 
 ried us through many poverty stricken towns, and we 
 were beleaguered by pertinaceous beggars, from the 
 infant to the grandsire, at every turn in the circuitous 
 road. Our passengers, excepting our own party, 
 were all natives of the continental countries and very 
 companionable travelers : seldom out of patience, but 
 by no means communicative. I was so fortunate 
 however as to excite the conversational powers of a 
 Sardinian soldier who sat beside me much of the time. 
 "When he discovered I was an American he grew rap- 
 turous, and filling from a convenient bottle, a cocoa- 
 nut cup of toothsome wine, pressed it upon me, at the 
 same time himself drinking with great gusto to the 
 prosperity of " des etats unisP Throughout Europe, 
 especially among the lower classes of the people, I 
 have found an admiration often amounting to an irre- 
 pressible enthusiasm for our great republic, and its 
 free institutions. We passed Aix les Baines, a popu- 
 lar watering place, amid the most romantic natural 
 surroundings, in the afternoon, and, after several hours 
 
GROSSING THE ALPS. 225 
 
 of driving through a region of vineyards, broad fields 
 of Indian corn and buckwheat, and scenery even more 
 magnificent than that of the morning, just at dusk 
 descended the long steep hill to the historic town of 
 Chambery the capital of Savoy, and were soon at din- 
 ner in the " Hotel D' Europe." Fair rooms were 
 supplied us, and fire proved very comfortable. The 
 dinner w T ould not have pleased John Bull, but for the 
 less fastidious and hearty Yankee, its soups, veal, 
 poultry, pears, grapes and maccaroni, to say nothing 
 of very palateable wines, were quite sufficient. After 
 its deliberate discussion we walked through the town, 
 but saving a few fine old buildings, some odd stores, 
 and a curious fountain in which the water gushes from 
 the trunks of several huge Elephants of bronze, found 
 little to admire in its narrow and poorly lighted 
 streets. It was in Chambery that our roving country- 
 man, Joel Barlow, wrote the " Hasty Pudding," the 
 most popular of his poems. In the morning we took 
 to the diligence at an early hour, and better realized 
 the extremely picturesque situation of Chambery. 
 The day proved worthy its predecessor. An uninter- 
 rupted view of surpassing mountain scenery, of luxu- 
 riant vineyards and prolific orchards feasted our 
 delighted and unwearying eyes. The diligence, 
 though less comfortable, presents many of the advan- 
 tages of the English stage coach, and is vastly prefer- 
 
 " 10* 
 
226 st. paitl's to st. sophia. 
 
 able to the railway where one desires to study the 
 country through which he is passing. The cumberous 
 vehicle is not unfrequently propelled by mules and 
 even horned cattle, whose speed is a guaranty that no 
 point of interest will be lost to the anxious eye by 
 any undue haste. 
 
 It was nearly forty-eight hours after we left Cham- 
 bery when we descended from the crowded coupe,* at 
 four o'clock in the morning, and entered the venera- 
 ble hotel in the sleeping village of Lanselebourg. A 
 little mummy-like old man, with an exceedingly insig- 
 nificant head, enveloped in an exceedingly insignifi- 
 cant night-cap, came groping out, an antiquated 
 lantern in his right hand, and a suspicious look- 
 ing ladder in his left. Placing the latter against the 
 vehicle, and mounting up, as a boy would to look 
 over a fence, he stuck his nose into our compartment, 
 and asked if we would not like a cup of coffee before 
 proceeding to cross the snowy mountains. We ac- 
 cepted his curious French invitation to dismount, and 
 so did our English friend in the "interior," and our 
 Italian companions in the " parquet." 
 
 All the continental country hotels have enormous 
 kitchens, and they are put just where you would 
 expect to find the drawing-rooms, viz., upon the front 
 
 * Name of the division of the Diligence. 
 
CROSSING THE ALPS. 227 
 
 of the first floor. Why this arrangement is so tena- 
 ciously adhered to, I cannot divine, unless it be with 
 the supposition that marching all the visitors through 
 the cooking department may tend to impress them 
 with the dignity of the establishment. To do this 
 effectually, the dishes, the floors, tables, and servants 
 should be kept in better order than they are. We 
 tumbled in, half asleep and half awake, as merry as 
 circumstances would allow. Servants were flying 
 round the kitchen in genuine French confusion, and 
 a number of inquisitive villagers, who should have 
 been in bed, stood ready to stare at us. The kitchen 
 walls were profusely decorated with huge frying- 
 pans, mammoth kettles, spits, griddles, and an endless 
 variety of copper dishes — for nearly all the French 
 cooking utensils are of copper. On a mammoth 
 stove in the centre of the room, stood a famous pot of 
 scalding water, and the servants were soon busy in 
 preparing the coffee. A long, rough table was filled 
 with large blue cups and saucers, good-sized pitchers 
 of milk, and huge loaves of black bread. Our com- 
 panions, particularly the Italians, poured down the 
 scalding coffee at a rapid rate. I enjoyed the survey 
 of the apartment, the manoeuvres of the servants, and 
 the jollity of the travellers far more than the coffee, 
 clear and refreshing as it was. The greatest good- 
 humor prevailed. The hot liquid had opened every 
 
228 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 one's throat, and all were gaily jabbering. Our con- 
 ductor — a remarkably clever fellow and good-looking 
 withal — amused himself by toasting broad slices of 
 brown bread in the ashes, and vigorously courting a 
 good-natured French lassie, the prettiest servant in 
 the kitchen. Her coquettish smiles seemed to make 
 a deep impression upon his open heart, and very loth 
 was he to leave her pleasant society. 
 
 Luxuriating in a half-hour's lounge, and warming 
 ourselves well by the blazing fire, we responded to 
 the cry of " Montez !" and took our seats. We were 
 to commence our new post with no less than twelve 
 animals to pull us — our eight sturdy horses and four 
 gigantic mules. The blue-shirted drivers crack their 
 tremendous whips ; conductor cries " All right ;" and 
 on we move. A few rods and the cattle stop. The 
 yells of the drivers and furious strokes of their lashes 
 soon start us again ; but the hill proving very steep, 
 we conclude to get out and stretch ourselves. What 
 an odd appearance we make, struggling up the steep 
 ascent beside the trundling omnibus. It is as cold as 
 mid- winter; the thermometer loiters at twenty -five 
 degrees. H. vows he'll freeze, but we are in good 
 humor, and that is half the battle. Closely wrapped 
 in our overcoats and plaids, we walk on. Our lady 
 friends grow enthusiastic as we proceed ; one gay 
 Italian girl sings merrily, and with her classic beauty 
 
CROSSING THE ALPS. 229 
 
 gains the attention of all the young men. Soon the 
 broad crystal daylight brought out the towering moun- 
 tains' height in bold relief. Rising in all their state- 
 liness toward heaven, their stalactical peaks looked 
 more grand than anything imagination could por- 
 tray : and when, in a short time, the morning sun 
 burst forth in unusual brilliance, and added a golden 
 tint to the pure, snowy landscape, we united in pro- 
 nouncing the effect the most sublime we had ever 
 witnessed. Certainly, nothing in this world could 
 appear more magnificent, and had we not been satis- 
 fied, from the earth at our feet, that we remained on 
 terra firma, we should have been slow to allow that 
 our pathway was not supercelestial. Oar raptures 
 increased at every step, as we wound round and 
 round the ascending roadway. Napoleon would have 
 had just claim to immortal fame if he had accom- 
 plished no other achievement than the construction 
 of this important and astonishing pass. None but a 
 mighty mind could have conceived so noble a work ; 
 none but a mind of extraordinary perseverance could 
 have perfected it. The pass is 6,700 feet high ! — and 
 though the pass of the Simplon, also constructed by 
 Napoleon, is generally considered the more remarka- 
 ble, it cannot possibly exceed the grandeur of this 
 w r onderful road. 
 
 After winding our way for an hour or two after 
 
230 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 sunrise, we were surprised to find the village of Lan- 
 selebourg lying just at our feet. So crooked is tlie 
 way, that, though we were many miles from the 
 village, by the road, we were comparatively near, in 
 a bee-line. The higher we reached, the more lively 
 our party, and particularly the romping Italian belle. 
 At times we were far ahead of the diligence, which 
 the dozen sturdy animals appeared to find difficult to 
 move, though emptied of its cargo. Some were 
 roving across the hills, others running over the frozen 
 road, and it was hard work for the most active to 
 keep comfortably warm. At last we reached the 
 perpetual snow — the hills, the road, all covered except 
 the track, and that frozen with Greenlandish solidity. 
 Here we saw the first of the four and twenty houses 
 erected as places of residence for the keepers of the 
 road, (those who keep the track clear,) and also as 
 refuges for fatigued or storm-stayed travellers. These 
 houses are one story high, built of stone, the windows 
 all protected with massive iron bars. I determined 
 to gratify my curiosity by entering the first one. On 
 the side, in large Roman letters, were the words, 
 " Regia Gassa di ricovero, (iVtf. XXIIIL)" The 
 inscription is prominent on all of them. I found two 
 rooms carpetless, but decently clean and comfortable ; 
 one appeared to be used as the sleeping apartment, 
 while the other served as a reception and cooking- 
 
CROSSING THE ALPS. 231 
 
 room, saloon, or what you may choose to call it. A 
 good-sized stove, placed in the middle of the latter 
 room, gave forth a glowing heat, of which I was glad 
 to avail my pinching lingers and toes, even for a 
 moment. One corner of the apartment was filled 
 with fire-wood ; a dining-table occupied another part, 
 while on the side, a rack attached to the wall was 
 covered with bottles of wine (and something stronger), 
 plates, cups, saucers, tumblers, etc., enough to serve a 
 small regiment. The lady of the refuge, a tall, polite 
 Italian, was dealing out miniature glasses of a mix- 
 ture, which the drivers of our cattle, who had left 
 their duty for a moment, appeared to swallow with 
 famous gusto. She gave me a chair by the stove, 
 stirring up the fire, and I enjoyed my visit greatly. 
 I went into several more of the retreats, and w T as well 
 received. The men were all off at work. We had 
 met many of them, muffled in a world of cloaks and 
 mittens, with their great snow-shovels on their backs. 
 They seemed more stern and industrious than any 
 laborers we encountered. 
 
 As we neared the summit, the atmosphere became 
 intensely cold. Having exercised to our satisfaction, 
 we took to our seats, and found it difficult to keep 
 from freezing, even under our extra heavy Scotch 
 plaids. The snow here appeared frozen upon the 
 surface, so that we could walk upon it as upon icej 
 
232 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 without leaving an impression. We passed a number 
 of store-houses and abandoned refuges. They wore 
 an air of the most dire desolation, blocked up in the 
 snow-drifts, without a shrub or a tree to relieve 
 the cold cheerless monotony. At last the top 
 came — or we came to the top — at about half-past 
 eight — over four hours after we commenced the 
 ascent. Here we made a brief halt, and entered 
 a curious little building nicknamed a " hotel." In one 
 of its dingy rooms was an old chap surrounded with 
 account-books. Our conductor obtained a slip of 
 paper from him, which I think was a receipt for toll. 
 From this post to Lanslebourg the peasants use sledges, 
 in the winter, when the snow has filled up the 
 ravines, and by this means they descend the moun- 
 tain in about ten minutes. 
 
 Unhitching our mules and horses excepting the 
 two at the wheels — sending our extra drivers back 
 with them to Lanslebourg — the whip was furiously 
 cracked, and we were rapidly making the descent. 
 We did not escape the snow for several miles, and 
 saw two or three tightly frozen lakes — capital skating 
 ponds. At one point, we passed a mass of dilapi- 
 dated government buildings, a fortification which a 
 boarding-school military corps might readily over- 
 throw. All the way along we saw the houses of 
 refuge : at the top of the mountain they are very near 
 
 
CKOSSINO THE ALPS. 233 
 
 together. If we were surprised at the ingenuity dis- 
 played in the construction of the ascending portion of 
 the pass, we were more than surprised at the difficul- 
 ties overcome in the descent. Such masterly engin- 
 eering and masonry would do credit to any nation 
 or age. The road became more winding than ever — 
 in fact, twisted like a jack-screw, and more than once 
 we were in fear of being thrown from the diligence, 
 which our driver whirled about the acute corners as 
 recklessly as he did his long whip-lash about the 
 heads of our faithful horses. At many places the road 
 is cut directly through the solid rock, while at others 
 it is built up of heavy masonwork. It is, perhaps, 
 sixty feet wide. We were not at all crowded by the 
 numerous carts conveying goods across to Switzerland, 
 A stout stone and wooden railing protects the outer 
 edge of the road for many miles. The telegraph poles 
 w T hich we had for grim companions through the snow 
 still kept by our side, and accompanied us all the way 
 to Turin. 
 
 Two hours more of rapid riding, and we reached 
 the village of Susa, each one voting himself a regular 
 Napoleon, having fairly crossed the Alps ! For miles 
 before arriving at Susa, that place appeared within a 
 stone's-throw ; the long turns in the road were, innu- 
 merable. On the descent we had many magnificent 
 views, and were ever and anon upon the very verge 
 

 234 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 of startling precipices. Susa looked pretty in the dis- 
 tance, and so did the entire valley through which our 
 peering eyes could almost discern the distant and ele- 
 gant city of Turin. "We were glad to wash and brush 
 up, get our breakfast and easy chairs, though the accom- 
 modations were rather shabby and we were not in very 
 good condition for eating. The poets are not always 
 reliable and my experience goes to prove him quite 
 the contrary who coolly sings : 
 
 " Travel all night 
 Till broad dayight, 
 
 Tou'U breakfast well in the morning." 
 
 Susa proved hot and unattractive, an old-fashioned 
 dirty town, with the usual Italian variations of revolt- 
 ing beggary and indolence, surprising architectural 
 remains, and melancholy quiet. 
 
 The thermometer paced up to 75°, a sensible 
 change from our morning temperature, and after two 
 hours of pleasant rest, we took the luxurious cars for 
 Turin, the transalpine Paris. As we whirled rapidly 
 through an uninterupted and enchanting chain of 
 orange and mulberry groves, richly interspersed with 
 blooming gardens, and vineyards clustering with 
 ripening grapes, the receding mountains with their 
 white-capped peaks kissing the silvery clouds and 
 shadowing the surrounding landscape, the, eager eye 
 found " nothing vile but man." 
 
TURIN. 
 
 Oue first surprise was at the freshness and regular- 
 ity on every side. The streets straight, clean and 
 well paved, the houses tall, even and elegant, peering 
 to a height even surpassing that of the loftiest Paris- 
 ian palaces, and adorned with exterior and interior 
 finish and decoration alike tasteful and elaborate. 
 
 An omnibus carried us to the diligence ofiice, from 
 whence our trunks were taken on a band-cart to the 
 " Hotel de Grand Britaigne," which we reached after 
 a brief walk. Fronting the broad piazza on which 
 the Royal palace and state buildings are erected, we 
 were well located for sight-seeing, and certain to 
 have the benefit of the daily military parade of the 
 royal guard. The manoeuvres were usually very cred- 
 itable, but we were better pleased with the soul-stir- 
 ring music of the bands. The Sardinian army is one 
 of the best in Central or Southern Europe, and with 
 the zealous and intelligent supervision of the King is 
 likely to improve with every year. 
 (235) 
 
236 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 We made an early visit to the Royal palace and 
 were kindly shown its many elegant apartments, not 
 excepting the living rooms of the royal family, a priv- 
 ilege extended us no where else. The furniture is 
 very rich and only inferior to that of Buckingham 
 and the Tuilleries. Many trophies are preserved in 
 one of the large halls and shown with pardonable 
 pride. We saw neither the King or Queen during the 
 few days we remained in Turin, they having gone on 
 a brief visit to one of their rural palaces. It is a 
 note-worthy fact that all the soverigns of Europe 
 have country resorts of which they are apparently 
 very fond, and to which they hie at every available 
 opportunity, evidently but too glad to escape 
 
 " The public burden of the nation's care." 
 
 Looking either way from the rectangular streets of 
 Turin the eye feasts upon natural scenery the most 
 rare and enchanting : here upon the coruscant snow 
 wreaths of the Alps, whose rivulets of crystal water 
 generously wash the pavements of the city : here 
 upon the perspicuous face of the "wandering Po," 
 and here upon the blooming olive and orange groves, 
 and fruitful vineyards of the elysian valley through 
 which we came from Susa. 
 
 Few European potentates have more loyal, con- 
 tented or prosperous subjects than the brave Yictor 
 
TUKIN. 237 
 
 Emanuel. His throne depends for its security rather 
 upon the affections and graitude of an intelligent and 
 hopeful people than upon the bayonets of a standing 
 and mercenary army. You will remember it was at 
 the hands of his magnanimous though unfortunate 
 father, the late Charles Albert, that the people of 
 Sardinia, in 1848, were granted a constitution, of 
 which religious liberty was a bright feature, and 
 which both Victor Emanuel and his parliament have 
 manifested a surprising firmness in upholding, and it 
 has received the cordial support of two eminent 
 prime ministers, first, the all-accomplished Marquis 
 d'Azeglio, and now that truly enlightened and able 
 statesman, the Count Cavour. Though restricted 
 until within a few year, that historic and interesting 
 people the "Waldenses, are now allowed all the privi- 
 leges enjoyed by other inhabitants of the kingdom — 
 and throughout its length and breadth the country 
 wears an air of wholesome life and activity surpassed 
 by none other upon the continent, not excepting 
 France* Railroads and telegraph lines, admirably 
 managed, traverse every section. The press is quite 
 untrammelled ; some thirty newspapers are published 
 in Turin alone, and while the State Religion is Roman 
 Catholic, the college of that church at Turin has, 
 according to official • announcement, but seven pupils, 
 and that at Geneva but one ! 
 
238 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 My companions had some business with General 
 Charles Beckwith, the English soldier, who has won a 
 world wide and honorable reputation as the firm 
 friend of the "Waldenses of Piedmont, and we accord- 
 ingly called at his pleasant home in one of the main 
 streets of the city. Some thirty years ago this benev- 
 olent Christian espoused the cause of the Waldenses, 
 and after living at La Tour in the valleys for some 
 time, recently removed to Turin, thinking he might 
 do his favorite people better service here. His con- 
 versation entertained us exceedingly. Though ad- 
 vanced in life he possesses all the ardor of a young 
 soldier, and looks as though he might yet endure a 
 long campaign. He lost a leg at Waterloo. The 
 General deprecated the scheme of emigration to 
 America, as urged by various Mormons who had trav- 
 ersed the valleys. He thinks the habits of the Wal- 
 denses are such as to incapacitate them for enduring 
 the severe hardships attending emigration and settle- 
 ment in a strange country. 
 
 Nearly opposite Gen. Beckwith's house, we saw 
 the neat edifice recently completed for the Walden- 
 sian Church of Turin. This is the first Protestant 
 house of worship built in Italy since the Reformation, 
 The Roman Catholics made a desperate effort to pre- 
 vent its erection, but an appeal was made to the King, 
 who, with his usual liberality, said " the Waldenses 
 
TURIN. 239 
 
 should have a church when and where they pleased. 
 Many of them had proved his best soldiers." After 
 this the " Board of Inspectors," whose duty it is to 
 examine all buildings in course of erection, endeav- 
 ored to prevent its resemblance to a church, and to 
 have it like an ordinary dwelling-house. Another 
 appeal being made to the King, he promptly said 
 u the building should be of any style of architecture 
 the Waldenses might desire." Finding their evil hopes 
 all frustrated, the Romanists threatened to blow the 
 building up, but the King kindly stationed a guard 
 about it until their rage had subsided. 
 
 General Beckwith collected funds for its erection, 
 and superintended it. It is a handsome Gothic struc- 
 ture, prominently situated, and must be looked upon as 
 one of the most interesting buildings in Europe. Ser- 
 vice is performed every Sabbath, in the Italian lan- 
 guage, as most of the residents of Turin are Italians. 
 A good congregation is always to be had, and the 
 existence of such a home of Protestantism in the midst 
 of Romanism should be the cause of great good. The 
 corner-stone was laid by the Hon. William B. Kin- 
 ney, of Newark, ]ST. J., who, I was glad to hear, dur- 
 ing his residence in Turin as American Minister, had 
 thrown his influence in behalf of the Waldenses, and 
 being an esteemed friend of the King, had secured to 
 ihem certain privileges which no other person could 
 
24:0 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 have obtained. It is very generally regretted that 
 Mr, Kinney's health forced him to resign his import- 
 ant position, and remove to a more genial clime. The 
 people of Sardinia have had few better friends, the 
 United States few representatives of greater dignity 
 and intelligence. 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 
 
 The sympathy of American Protestants for their 
 brethren in the valleys of Sardinia, is such as to ren- 
 der any account of the "Waldenses acceptable, and 
 without the pretence of advancing any novel or extra- 
 ordinary information concerning this most interesting 
 people, I have concluded to write a few particulars of 
 my tour among them. 
 
 From Turin to Pignerol there is an admirable rail- 
 way. After an hour's ride I found myself with my 
 companions safely landed at the spacious depot at 
 Pignerol, twenty-two miles distant. The seats in the 
 omnibus being all engaged, we chartered a coach, 
 and with an energetic post-boy and lively team were 
 driven to La Tour in an hour and a half. The scenery 
 by the way was fine, but the evening air harsh and 
 penetrating. 
 
 La Tour, the chief town in the valleys, is a place of 
 little beauty, though handsomely located. It is about 
 (241) 11 
 
242 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ten miles from Pignerol, and lies just at the entrance 
 to a romantic valley, under the shadow of the highest 
 mountain, the one in which is the large cave, where 
 so many of the inhabitants fled in the days of perse- 
 cution. The snow clad peaks looked strangely, beside 
 the smiling, sunny valley-scenery. Winter and sum- 
 mer never stood so closely together, and yet so good- 
 naturedly. It is not at all difficult to reach the Wal- 
 denses, and we were surprised to find that so few of 
 our countrymen travelling on the continent had made 
 it a point to visit them. 
 
 From Great Britain the visitors are more numerous. 
 The Hon. and Rev. B. W. Noel, of London, had 
 lately spent a month at La Tour and vicinity. He 
 manifests the deepest interest in the Waldensian 
 Church, and as one of the prominent members in- 
 formed us, " knows as much or more of its history 
 than they do themselves." 
 
 The morning after our arrival was the Sabbath 
 morning. We were anxious to make the best of the 
 day, and bearing letters to the Rev. B. Malan, pro- 
 fessor in the college at La Tour, called upon him at 
 an early hour. The professors reside in a plain but 
 tasteful row of cottages, adjoining the new church, 
 and nearly opposite the college building. We found 
 the Professor ready to give us a cordial welcome, and 
 to offer us the information we desired. He proposed 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 243 
 
 that we should attend morning service at one of the 
 churches in the adjoining valley, Angronia. The 
 walk of three or four miles up the steep mountain 
 path was full of interest, more so for the explanations 
 offered at different points by our esteemed guide. 
 We passed cottages at every few rods, snugly located 
 on the hill-side, and charmingly enveloped in vines. 
 These humble dwellings are mostly of stone, two 
 stories in height, with spacious piazzas and flat stone 
 roofs. The morning was warm, and delightful as one 
 of spring. For some distance before we came to the 
 church, we met the unpretending worshippers throng- 
 ing the way, and when we arrived, were much sur- 
 prised to find so large a gathering. A military 
 company composed of the residents of the valley, was 
 being trained near the church-yard, but when the 
 hour for service had come, the music ceased, the arms 
 were stacked, and with a reverential air the uni- 
 formed men entered the sacred walls. It was strange 
 to see so much of martial bearing marking a devo- 
 tional assemblage. 
 
 The pastor, the Eev. Matthew Gay, is considered 
 one of the ablest of the "Waldensian preachers. His 
 discourse was at once timely, eloquent, and powerful, 
 and withal so simple that a child might understand 
 every word. The closest attention w r as shown by all 
 present, and when, after the singing and benediction, 
 
24:4: st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the large audience quietly parted, every countenance 
 told that the good man's faithfulness had made an im- 
 pression time should not wear away. 
 
 The chapel was of the most humble order, the seats 
 rude in the extreme, the floor paved with stones. 
 The women sat at the right of the preacher. ~No 
 elegant silks or de laines were to be seen. A species 
 of dark blue, coarse, but comfortable looking muslin, 
 was the richest article worn, and snow-white caps, 
 with very large erect ruffles or frills in front, covered 
 the heads of all. 
 
 The men were attired in a homespun cloth, plainer 
 than that worn in any secluded agricultural district 
 in America. The singing was conducted by a pre- 
 centor, as in England. We were introduced to the 
 pastor, and to several of the elders. One of them 
 said, " Americans have done much for us, they have 
 given us a college ;" and all gave us a most hearty 
 welcome to Angronia, and evinced deep interest in 
 our far-off native land. 
 
 After we had passed from the chapel, Prof. M. sug- 
 gested that we should devote a moment to a visit to 
 an interesting spot near at hand — the rock over 
 which so many of the devoted "Waldenses were hurled 
 to instant death in the time of the persecutions. 
 Shaded and adorned with verdant foliage, we could 
 scarcely realize it as a point where cruelty had once 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 245 
 
 developed its most terrible forms. Plucking a few- 
 leaves from tlie trees at its edge, and breaking off 
 several bits of tlie rock itself, as mementoes more sub- 
 stantial, we paused for a moment to observe the 
 valley at our feet and the overshadowing hills, and 
 then turned into the roadway and slowly walked to 
 La Tour. The people were wending their way home- 
 wards from the service. Ever and anon a party 
 would disappear in some side cut which we should 
 not have imagined passable, much less the road 
 to the residences of human beings. Many of the 
 men had their guns upon their shoulders, and we 
 were employed much of the time in returning the 
 salutations, as every man, woman, and child we 
 passed made it a point to wish us a " good morning." 
 Nowhere in our travels have we found a people so 
 universally polite. 
 
 The new church at La Tour reminded us of a New- 
 England house of worship. Its pure white spires and 
 neat exterior contrasted strongly with the dingy look- 
 ing ecclesiastical structures we had seen in France. 
 We were present at the afternoon service. A large 
 audience was in attendance. The Rev. George Appia, 
 a young graduate, preached, in the absence of the 
 pastor. The sermon was full of love — a fervent 
 appeal to an increase of brotherly affection, one 
 toward another. The house is commodious and taste- 
 
24:6 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ful in its interior. During tlie delivery of tlie sermon 
 three or four irreverent dogs kept marching to and fro 
 in the aisles with the utmost nonchalance. N"o one 
 appeared to notice them, however. 
 
 In the evening we were invited to a reunion of the 
 professors and students, held at the house of Professor 
 Malan. The younger boys read an able article upon 
 the " State of Eeligion in America," from the erudite 
 pen of M. Roussel. The selection was a happy compli- 
 ment to our presence. After singing and prayer, P. and 
 P., my travelling companions, offered a few remarks 
 expressive of their great satisfaction with the even- 
 ing's entertainment, and their sympathy in all the 
 movements of the Yaudois, when I had the pleasure 
 of giving a brief account of the operations of Young 
 Men's Associations, as established throughout the 
 United States, and in which both the professors and 
 students evinced the liveliest interest. Tea was 
 passed round, and, after a half-hour of informal con- 
 versation, we parted. 
 
 Early on Monday morning we were off to the col- 
 lege. "We found all the professors in the library, but 
 did not see the students, as the sessions were sus- 
 pended, and had been for some time, by order of the 
 Government, on account of the prevalence of the 
 cholera, though its ravages had been mainly confined 
 to Turin. The college-building is of stone, large and 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 247 
 
 substantial, and surrounded with a liberal plot of land. 
 It was erected in 1837 with funds collected in Great 
 Britain, by General Beckwith and Rev. Mr. Gilly, the 
 two indefatigable friends of the "Waldenses. The 
 library is well stocked with French and English 
 books, many of them rare and valuable. Philosoph- 
 ical apparatus, and all the appointments necessary to 
 the study of the sciences are supplied. The number 
 of students averages nearly one hundred. A theolog- 
 ical department will shortly be opened in this institu- 
 tion, and two or three professors appointed. Hitherto, 
 the young men of the "Waldensian Church have been 
 under the necessity of going to Geneva, Lausanne, or 
 Berlin, to pursue their theological education. This 
 has been attended with much inconvenience. Here- 
 after, they will be able to pursue all their studies for 
 the ministry at home as it w T ere, and in doing so, they 
 will perfect their knowledge of the Italian language, 
 and thus be better fitted for the missionary work to 
 which many of them will certainly be called by the 
 state of things in the kingdom of Sardinia, where 
 there is now an " open door" of usefulness set before 
 this church. 
 
 Leaving the college, we met Moderator Ravel, who 
 had come in from a long distance to meet us. Dr. 
 Ravel and his estimable lady spoke in terms of enthu- 
 siastic praise of American institutions as they found 
 
248 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 them during their visit last year. The sympathy 
 manifested in the New World in behalf of the Chris- 
 tians of Piedmont, has undoubtedly proved a source 
 of mueh encouragement to them. Dr. Havel inquired 
 particularly of the New York pastors, and the many 
 warm friends made in America. 
 
 At the hospital, a few moments 5 walk from the col- 
 lege, toward the mountains, we met Joseph Malan, 
 of Turin, the representative of the Waldenses in the 
 Sardinian Parliament. He is the only Protestant in 
 office, and was elected by the union of a few liberal- 
 minded Catholics with the Yaudois — aii affable gentle- 
 man, who spoke English, and gave us much inform- 
 ation as to the character of the Government. 
 
 There were only about a half-dozen patients in the 
 hospital, and they were improving. I learned that 
 none but Protestants were admitted unless in extreme 
 cases. The hospital is supported by funds received 
 from England. 
 
 Spacious grounds are attached, and tastefully ar- 
 ranged. A more retired or agreeable retreat for the 
 sick could not be conceived. Dr.Eavel and Mr. Malan 
 accompanied us to the young ladies' school. Miss 
 Appia, a sister of the young preacher whom we had 
 heard on the Sabbath, is the Principal. She received 
 us cordially, and the scholars, (about fifty in all,) 
 went through a variety of interesting exercises much 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 249 
 
 to our gratification. "We were pleased with their 
 intelligence and perfect order. General Beckwith 
 was the founder of this school. 
 
 The Waldensian valleys contain a population of 
 about 22,000 Protestants and 5,000 Eoman Catholics. 
 The French language is generally spoken. There are 
 fifteen churches and four preaching stations. The 
 lowlands and many sections of the highlands produce 
 in good quality all the kinds of vegetables grown in 
 the United States. The grape crop has signally failed 
 for three years past, and I was sorry to learn that the 
 potato disease prevailed to an alarming extent. In 
 the shops at La Tour we saw as fine apples and pears 
 as we could wish for, and at our hotel we were served 
 with as great a variety of meats, vegetables, and fruits 
 as the most fastidious epicure could desire, and the 
 charges were reasonable ; the rooms neat and com- 
 modious. Indian corn is grown on the mountains in 
 large quantities. The bright yellow ears may be seen 
 hanging out to dry, at nearly every dwelling. Hominy 
 and Indian meal are coming into general use. The 
 people are industrious, honest, and frugal, though not 
 what we would call enterprising. They appear con- 
 tent with a little, and satisfied with their country. 
 They are mainly agriculturists. A few are employed 
 at the silk manufactories near La Tour. Many mul- 
 berry trees are grown, and chestnut trees cover the 
 
 10* 
 
250 st. Paul's to st, sophia. 
 
 hill-sides. An old writer called the chestnuts the 
 manna of the Waldenses. 
 
 The large Roman Catholic Church at La Tour was 
 erected by the Bishop of Pignerol. It contains a 
 number of rich paintings, but is free from the super- 
 fluity of gilt decoration found in most of the churches. 
 A crafty priest has been selected as the pastor, 
 and every means is taken to win converts from the 
 Waldenses. The Sabbath was quietly observed. 
 The shops were many of them open, but there was 
 less confusion and traffic than in most continental 
 towns. The people looked clean, and were excessively 
 polite. We saw no beggars, and were told that 
 among their one hundred and thirty institutions, for 
 social discipline, there is neither a prison nor a poor- 
 house, and it is probably the only community in 
 Europe, certainly the only one in Italy, of equal num- 
 bers, without a beggar or a drunkard. 
 
 We were inquired of concerning the proposed line 
 of American steamers from New York to Genoa. All 
 united in expressing the greatest desire for the estab- 
 lishment of such a communication, so they might 
 hear more readily from their American brethren. 
 I sincerely hope the capitalists who have long had 
 the matter under consideration, may conclude to try 
 the experiment. At present the passengers and mails 
 from Italy, Southern France, Switzerland, and Sardi- 
 
PIEDMONT AND THE WALDENSES. 251 
 
 ma, have all to go to Liverpool or Havre, before they 
 can secure steam conveyance to tlie United States. 
 A heavy loss of time and much expense would be 
 saved by a line from Genoa, and there can be no 
 doubt that quantities of merchandise would be for- 
 warded by such route, and many worthy emigrants 
 find their way to the western world. 
 
 We continued to enjoy the company and kind 
 attention of Messrs. Malan, Ravel, and other friends 
 during our entire visit, and returned to Turin well 
 satisfied with our tour in the romantic and historic 
 valleys. 
 
FLOKENCE. 
 
 " In Florence," says Willis, " one lives like a 
 prince and pays like a beggar," and the assertion is 
 comparatively correct. We have our quarters at the 
 "Grand Hotel de New York," directly upon the 
 peaceful Arno. Spacious and well furnished rooms, 
 with unexceptionable beds, are given us at about 
 twenty-five cents per day. A substantial and well- 
 cooked breakfast of eggs, continental beef-steak, (very 
 different from that of old England), potatoes and 
 coffee, costs but forty cents, and a Table-d'Hote din- 
 ner, with innumerable courses, good enough for any 
 one, is provided for sixty cents — vastly cheaper this 
 than any comfortable hotel yet found in our continen- 
 tal tour. At the restaurants, and the city abounds in 
 them, a refreshing breakfast may be had for twenty- 
 five cents, and a tempting dinner for thirty to forty 
 cents, but one cannot well endure the company. We 
 have experimented at various places, but never to our 
 (252) 
 
FLORENCE. 253 
 
 satisfaction. Once we went with some artist friends 
 to one of the leading saloons, but in additon to the 
 clatter of the slatternly servants, a dozen rapacious 
 pedlars entered in rapid succession. Their great 
 trays of fancy wares were literally poked under our 
 eyes, and refusals to purchase needles only provoked 
 urgent appeals to buy pins. Absolute denials to lib- 
 eral offers of matches brought persistent proposals to 
 take soap. First came a wily Italian lad of perhaps 
 twelve summers, round faced and black eyed, who 
 seemed bent by every ingenious persuasion to make 
 us his customers, "We begged him to retire, and 
 appealed to the waiters to expedite his removal, but 
 to no effect. Then followed a Jewish gray beard, 
 with sallow cheek and hook nose, who with all the 
 pertinacity of his despised and unfortunate race 
 besought us to select hose and handkerchiefs from his 
 varied stock. An obstinate old fellow indeed, from 
 whom it was hard to escape. Then an aged woman 
 with glittering trinkets came to annoy us, and while 
 we were heartily wishing her away, a flower girl 
 sought to tempt us with bursting rose buds, but save 
 this last intrusion which, owing perhaps quite as much 
 to the beauty of the fair seller as to that of her dainty 
 merchandise, we were willing to excuse, our meal 
 time was an hour of continued and provoking interrup- 
 
254 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 tions, and henceforth we preferred eating in the quiet 
 and agreeable saloon of our hotel. 
 
 The streets of Florence are generally narrow, but 
 well paved and decently clean. One may walk or 
 ride in them with ease and comfort, and not very 
 often lose his way, for their intricacies are not to be 
 compared with those of many of the older British 
 cities. Coach hire is very cheap, marvellously so, and 
 the drivers unusually polite, a pattern for the hard- 
 ened " cabbies" of London and Paris. 
 
 I must not venture to tell of all the fine build- 
 ings in this city of palaces ; in architectural 
 grandeur it has much, very much to boast, and I 
 make no wonder that lovers of art so richly enjoy 
 both the exterior and interior magnificence of its 
 State and Ecclesiastic structures. The Pitti palace, 
 the present 1854) residence of Leopold, Duke of Tus- 
 cany, is a wonderfully massive building, a perfect 
 fortress in itself. The front, which seems full five 
 hundred feet in extent, is composed of rough blocks 
 of brown stone, many of them ten and fifteen feet in 
 length, one that I particularly noticed measured over 
 twenty feet. The effect of this unhewn facade is 
 grand beyond description. The whole edifice looks 
 as though it had been quarried from some gigantic 
 Gibraltar. Several stalwart men, attired in rich uni- 
 forms, and wearing huge cocked hats, the Duke's por- 
 
FLORENCE. 255 
 
 ters, met us at the main entrance, and having signified 
 our desire to examine the palace, or the state apart- 
 ments, we were directed to a sprightly servant, who 
 speedily opened to us the mysteries of the place. 
 The apartments consist of a reception room, ball room, 
 saloon, and an endless variety of square rooms, about 
 fifty by fifty feet in size, and splendidly furnished — 
 such as we have seen in every royal palace, but the 
 use of which has never been satisfactorily explained. 
 These rooms open one into another, and when all 
 the doors are left ajar, as they are in a parallel line, 
 the tout ensemble is very fine. Rich carpetings, and 
 elegantly frescoed ceilings adorn each room, and the 
 walls are more or less decorated, bat not so elabor- 
 ately as those of the state apartments at Turin. The 
 mosaic tables are beautiful beyond any we have seen, 
 and are said to be worth untold gold. But after all 
 there is an air of stately desolation about these spa- 
 cious halls, and about all the royal palaces we have 
 visited. Mayhap the crowned residents would be far 
 happier in some vine-clad cottage. Here amid the 
 stiff forms of courtly etiquette and relentless fashion, 
 
 " There's sic parade, sic pomp and art, 
 The joy can scarcely reach the heart." 
 
 Yet how tenaciously are the baubles of royalty held, 
 and how much ambitious men undergo and endure 
 
256 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 for the sake of getting and holding power over their 
 fellows. 
 
 In the private chapel of the Pitti Palace, in an out- 
 of-the-way corner, we saw Carlo Dolce's " Madonna," 
 and for one, I thought it worthy to compare with 
 Raphael's master-piece, the " Madonna della Seg- 
 giola," The artist's mild modest style of coloring — 
 especially the mellow blue of which he was so passion- 
 ately fond, and introduced in most of his paintings — 
 is greatly to my liking — although critics deal very 
 harshly with poor Dolce. The picture is elegantly 
 framed, but why obscured so, no one could tell. It is 
 deserving a place beside Raphael's, which we had 
 paused to admire with many other gems of art, in 
 the saloons through which we had passed. Artists are 
 constantly copying it, and applicants often have to 
 wait several years for an opportunity. The picture 
 galleries are the chief attraction of the palace, and 
 in some respects the finest in Europe — too wealthy 
 almost for concentration at a single point. The grand 
 old artists whose works are here preserved, all seem 
 to have mixed their colors with brains, and that with- 
 out stint. 
 
 The Boboli gardens behind the Pitti palace are 
 well worth visiting, and have occupied our careful 
 attention. They abound in every floral attraction. 
 
 Opposite the palace, or nearly so, is the residence 
 
FLORENCE. 257 
 
 of the Brownings, whose mysterious poetry is as well- 
 known in America as in Britain. They are perman- 
 ent residents here, and often met at the house of our 
 esteemed countryman, Mr, Kinney, who since his 
 withdrawal from Turin, has made Florence his home 
 — and with his accomplished lady dispenses a refined 
 hospitality exceedingly grateful, not only to the artists 
 and residents, but to all their countryfolk, who pass 
 through the city, Mr. Kinney has kindly accom- 
 panied us in our walks, and. greatly interested us by 
 his ready knowledge of all places of interest. He has 
 made the city a study, until its every street, house, 
 historic and art association, is apparently -as well- 
 known to him as to the oldest and most intelligent 
 resident. But you will have premised all this from 
 his admirable letters to the Newark Daily Advertiser ', 
 of which he was so long the able and respected 
 editor. 
 
 We rode out the other afternoon, to the Oascine, 
 the Hyde Park of Florence — a long strip of beautiful 
 land and forest interspersed with enchanting roads and 
 shaded paths. Passing out at the city gate and by 
 the railway station, we were soon on the confines of 
 the grounds. The drives are very long but never 
 tedious. Midway in the main route of pleasure riders 
 is a large building, a saloon or hotel, on the broad 
 piazza of which a military band was playing gay tunes 
 
258 
 
 ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 to the gossiping throng. The Oascine is one of the 
 most lovely public parks we have yet met. The 
 great rivalry between Rome and Florence, can never 
 seriously disturb the latter until the eternal city has 
 Cascine. 
 
 Sunday is a dazzling holiday in most continental 
 cities, in none more so than in Florence. The streets 
 are crowded from early morn with giddy pleasure 
 seekers, and all manner of amusements are indulged 
 without restraint. After dinner I inquired, of one 
 of the waiters at our hotel, at what hour the English 
 church service commenced. He could give me no 
 information, but with apparent delight announced 
 that a balloon would go up at 3 o'clock, and already 
 the streets near the point of ascent were thronged 
 with an eager assemblage, copiously interspersed with 
 the military, whether from fear of a disturbance or 
 from simple curiosity I did not learn. After a deal 
 of delay, and any number of false and mischievous 
 reports, the airy messenger was cut loose and soared 
 gracefully toward the clouds, amid the enthusiastic 
 cheers of the excited multitude. It was nearly sunset 
 when the crowd tired with gazing at the fast receding 
 balloon, began to disperse, and as the surging throng 
 passed beneath my window, my mind instinctively 
 reached across the Atlantic to the quiet Sabbath- 
 keeping villages of New England, where, and in other 
 
 
FLORENCE. 259 
 
 parts of my native land, the sacred day was profaned 
 by no such unblushing desecration, no such childish 
 amusements, no such forgetfulness of the divine com- 
 mand touching its devout observance. And to this 
 gross disregard of the Sabbath, we may reasonably 
 charge no small portion of the vice and crime of the 
 continental cities. Where there is no observance of 
 the Sabbath, there is no regard for the Bible, and 
 where the Bible and its teachings are ignored, there 
 are few restraints upon the human passions. It 
 requires the experience of but one Florentine Sab- 
 bath, to dissipate all wonder at the recent cruel 
 imprisonment of the righteous Madiai. If there is 
 an alarming apprehension regarding the annual arri- 
 val in America of thousands of adventurers from 
 Europe, it is that they will bring with them an hab- 
 itual disregard of the Sabbath. Americans should 
 see to it that, under the guise of innocent rest and 
 necessary recreation, the Sabbath of their fathers is 
 not ruthlessly prostituted to a mere season of revelry 
 and license, and that by those who should cheerfully 
 uphold, rather than unblushingly infringe the laws 
 and sanctities of the land so prompt to shelter them 
 from the poverty and oppression of the old world. 
 
 A curious Florentine custom — an excellent one by 
 the way — is that of designating the houses of historic 
 
>. 
 
 260 
 
 note by inscriptions neatly carved in marble slabs 
 usually placed upon the fronts of the buildings 
 Many of the residences of the great men of medieval 
 Florence are thus distinguished, much to the interes 
 and convenience of the curious stranger, who might 
 otherwise even with the lucid light of Murray pass 
 them by unnoticed. 
 
 The house of Michae Angelo is carefully preserved 
 — a narrow building, but deep, and with many con- 
 tinuous rooms, teeming with mementoes of the great 
 artist. I viewed them with much of genuine rever- 
 ence, for Angelo has ever held a high place in my 
 estimation. It was Alls ton, I think, who said, " there 
 is something in his works that so lifts one above our 
 present world, or, at least, which so raises one above 
 ordinary emotions, that I never quit the Sistine chapel 
 without feeling it impossible to believe any charge to 
 his discredit." Hilliard has well denominated him 
 " the Columbus of Sculpture." There is a striking 
 boldness of originality in all his works. 
 
 In the church of San Lorenzo several of Angelo's 
 master pieces in marble are shown the visitor, and in 
 the church of Santa Croce, the "Westminster Abbey 
 of Florence, his remains repose, with those of Machi- 
 avelli, Galileo, Leonardo Breuno, Lanzi, and Filicaja. 
 
 The cathedral is a sumptuous building, and in the 
 same square the Baptistery, and Campanile or Bell 
 

 FL0BENCE. 261 
 
 Tower, excite the traveler's admiration. The tower 
 is nearly three hundred feet high, and the bronze 
 doors of the Baptistery, or the two made by Ghiberti, 
 are those which Angelo, with pardonable enthusiasm, 
 pronounced worthy to be the gates of paradise. They 
 are not very large but ornate in the highest degree, 
 and take front rank among the Florentine wonders. 
 An incalculable expenditure of time, taste, patience, 
 and gold must have been involved in their pro- 
 duction. 
 
 I have already made incidental allusion to the 
 flower-girls. They are scarcely attractive enough to 
 warrant matrimonial advances, else we should often 
 hear of romantic matches, and many a young Ameri- 
 can would return to his native heath with more than 
 one trunk ! Nevertheless, their avocation is a pretty 
 one, and their manners are, with an occasional excep- 
 tion, unobtrusive and pleasing. When you first 
 nestle by the sluggish Arno, they greet you with a 
 merry bienvenu, and filling your hand with fresh-cut 
 and fragrant flowers, hie away ere you are through 
 wondering at their feminine audacity. Every day as 
 you walk or ride through the streets, or loiter in the 
 Cascine, they crowd your button-holes with delicious 
 buds, and blossoms, and when at last you repair to 
 the diligence or railway office to depart from fair 
 Florence, they as by instinct stand by your side to bid 
 
262 st. patjl's to st. sophia. 
 
 you a ~bon voyage, and press upon you a boquet larger 
 and better than all you have had before, and then 
 when you reluctantly say good bye, and not till then, 
 the patient creatures expect a liberal doceur. Need 
 I say, they are seldom disappointed : after the slov- 
 enly and importunate beggars, their modest manners 
 and quakerly cleanliness, no less than their floral 
 favors, make refusal quite impossible — and thus they 
 earn an honest and merited livelihood, and the good 
 wishes of all who have seen their rosy cheeks and 
 lustrous eyes. 
 
 The streets of Florence at all hours present a motley 
 mixture of military, church and civil dignitaries, and 
 the sonorous bells of the grave old cathedrals ring 
 with an endless melody, distasteful to many, but to 
 my campanalogical ear never annoying. The church 
 doors, as in all continental cities, are always open, 
 and worshippers go to and fro often with sincere 
 devotion, but frequently with a formality and indiffer- 
 ence but illy concealed. 
 
 The other night I was startled by one of those pecu- 
 liar Italian exhibitions, the funeral procession of an 
 ecclesiastic. Suddenly as I stood opposite a large 
 hall near the cathedral, the doors burst open, and a 
 number of carefully cowled " brethren of the Miseri- 
 cordia" filed silently forth in grim array. Each car- 
 ried a flaming candle or torch, and as they bore the 
 
FLORENCE. 263 
 
 body of their departed brother through the dark nar- 
 row streets, the glaring light, the strange wild chant, 
 no less than the melancholy grotesque dress of the 
 pious mourners, combined to make the nocturnal 
 scene one long to be vividly remembered. 
 
 w w w w w 
 
 It is with much of honest pride, the American 
 traveller finds his countrymen so accomplished in art 
 as their studios in Florence abundantly reveal. All 
 the world pays willing homage to Hiram Powers, the 
 Buckeye Sculptor, whose cunning chisel wrought the 
 " Greek Slave" and " Proserpine." Mr. Powers is 
 not only a skillful, but a most diligent workman. It 
 is now nearly twenty years since he left the land of 
 his birth, and not once has he found time to revisit it. 
 His fame is' the result of untiring perseverance, and 
 as such is doubly honorable. He has frequently as 
 many as twenty visitors in a single day, and it 
 is highly complimentary to his good-nature, to say 
 that he receives all with the utmost cordiality. Fame 
 is not without its perplexities : a man cannot enjoy 
 greatness undisturbed. 
 
 Hart, of Kentucky, is fast winning an enviable po- 
 sition, and my Virginia friend Barbee, my fellow- 
 passenger from New York to Liverpool, has already 
 far advanced his exquisite work, the " Coquette." 
 Mr. Powers, who is an fait in such matters, and not 
 
 
264 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 apt to speak flatteringly, says " it is the best first 
 effort he has ever seen." 
 
 I am surprised to find good marble both scarce and 
 dear in Italy. I had always thought a chief induce- 
 ment to artists to locate here, was the abundant 
 supply, and cheapness of the article. The price usu- 
 ally received for completing a bust is from $400 to 
 $600. Hart is to get the latter amount for one or two 
 of those in his studio. Powers now asks $1000. 
 
 Gould, whom you will remember as the painter of 
 the best portrait of Kossuth, is driving a good busi- 
 ness. He has been to the East during the summer, 
 and is now amusing himself with a sketch of oriental 
 life— a scene at Constantinople. His works are all 
 highly creditable : his copy of [Raphael's Madonna 
 is said to be the finest in Florence. 
 
 Kellogg has also been spending the summer, or a 
 portion of it, in the Orient. He has several fine pic- 
 tures in hand, but is mainly engaged on a life-size 
 painting of two English girls, and if they are nearly 
 as pretty as he represents them, it would be danger- 
 ous for a bachelor to venture in their neighborhood. 
 Kellogg bears a very high reputation, and justly. 
 
 T. Buchanan Eead, whom you know as a Pennsyl- 
 vania poet of some fame, has two or three really 
 charming pictures in hand : the " Kescue of Undine," 
 and the "Lost Pleiads," would either of them do 
 
FLORENCE. 265 
 
 credit to any living artist. The conception and 
 coloring of the former is truly exquisite. Another 
 work, nearly completed, the " Trial of Culprit Fay," 
 as described in Dr. Drake's well known and happy 
 poem, will also tend to increase the artist's renown. 
 
 It is fortunate for the artists that living is so cheap 
 in Florence. It is on many accounts preferable to 
 Rome as a place of residence. It is impossible to 
 remain in Home during the summer months, while a 
 regard for health and comfort does not require that 
 Florence should be abandoned at any season. Occa- 
 sional summer days are rather hot, and cold winds 
 prevail in the autumn, but to those w T ho work in 
 doors, these peculiarities are not objectionable. 
 
 Thera are so many American students of art now in 
 Florence that the natives take all who speak English 
 for children of the new world. A young English 
 painter tells me he can scarce make any one believe 
 he is not a Yankee ! 
 
 Besides artists, there are at all seasons not a few 
 Americans resident in the beautiful villas about the 
 city, and delightfully they live at an economy quite 
 incredible. 
 
 12 
 
"THE HOLY CITY." 
 
 Here I hang out my latch string from the topmost 
 story of a very comfortable hotel, demi-French, demi- 
 English, named the " D'Amerique," and yet more 
 Italian than anything else. They say it is unhealthy 
 to live anywhere near terra firma. It is certainly 
 fashionable, in modern Rome, to abide up stabs, and 
 of course I must do as others do. 
 
 I congratulate myself on passing safely through the 
 regiment of genscParmes and cocked hats of every 
 order, that have stuck their bristling bayonets at me 
 ever since I left old England. I have been so fortu- 
 nate as to avoid being arrested as Kossuth, or locked 
 up as Mazzini, or hauled before the police on suspi- 
 cion of being in communication with the revolution- 
 ists. The trouble which I have taken to have my 
 passport scratched at every few miles, should insure 
 me exemption from all trouble. . It may not however. 
 Tottering kings and haunted dukes must keep an eye 
 (266) 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 267 
 
 on the harum scarum Yankees that impudently invade 
 their dominions. May the fates save me from incar- 
 ceration in any of the continental dungeons. If their 
 internal air is half as gloomy as that of their exterior, 
 one might as well be killed off at once. 
 
 The agents of his Papal highness took my passport 
 from me when I first entered the city gates, and will 
 probably restore it when I make up my mind to 
 move on ; that is, if I pay them enough. Everything 
 here goes by pay. One may have his trunk loaded 
 with incendiary documents, but if he will pay the 
 officers even a reasonable sum, he need not give up 
 the key. 
 
 One wants two things above all others, to accomplish 
 continental travel : a passport, and a well filled purse. 
 These requisites secured, he may go anywhere with 
 comparative ease ; without them, he may smoke his 
 pipe and whistle anything but the Marseillaise, but 
 make no progress. Good looks, or good manners are 
 of no avail. 
 
 Since the genuine Romans went by the board, 
 everything in Rome seems to have degenerated. 
 There is nothing modern at all creditable, and the 
 people are about as destitute of the poetic fire and 
 genius, the intelligence and enterprise of their noble 
 ancestors, as the insignificant donkeys that crawl 
 through the narrow streets. Now and then you 
 
268 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 m 
 
 meet an intellectual countenance, a life-like eye, but 
 a filthy lazzaroni constitutes the main feature of the 
 population of modern Eome, and in the rural districts 
 the beggars seem to have sole and undisturbed pos- 
 session ; every other man you meet sticks out his 
 unwashed hand for a baocchic, or some larger coin 
 of the country. The diligence drivers won't go unless 
 they are well fed with extra coppers. In fact it is 
 dangerous to look in the face of man, woman or child. 
 I have dared to do so once or twice, and been instantly 
 besieged for alms. 
 
 The streets of Eome are more cleanly than I 
 expected, but the people swarm in them like drones. 
 The houses look gloomy and uncomfortable ; one 
 might live in Italy a month, and never get a smile, 
 for were you to bestow pence or shillings upon every 
 mendicant, you would insure their continued demands 
 rather than gratitude. The pretty girls, and they are 
 precious few, only now and then put forth a loving 
 look, and I am at loss to discover the Italian beauty 
 of which poets have so long and fondly sung. It evi- 
 dently does not belong to the present day. 
 
 You have heard of the down-easter who in answer 
 to the inquiry, how he liked Eome, replied it was a 
 fine city but he thought the public buildings very much 
 out of repair. I can readily conceive how a monied 
 Yankee, traveling, as too many do for fashion's sake 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 269 
 
 rather than a love of the grand or beautiful, could make 
 such an expression. The propinquity of the ancient 
 and the modern, the almost indiscriminate comming- 
 ling of the ruined, half -ruined and unbroken edifices, 
 give to the whole city a strangely dilapidated air. 
 The ruins are many of them stupendous and convey 
 to the most skeptical mind abundant evidence of the 
 superior architectural taste and skill of the early 
 Romans. It is impossible to disappoint the most 
 exalted expectations in a survey of these remarkable 
 relics. 
 
 How immensely grand and suggestive the remains 
 of the Colosseum : 
 
 " That noble wreck in ruinous perfection." 
 
 And how instructive the crushed and fallen palace 
 of the Csesars. 
 
 Of course I have paid due attention to St. Peter's. 
 Midway between St. Paul's and St. Sophia, it is in 
 many respects more wonderful than either. Its gigan- 
 tic proportions are not fairly realized at the first visit, 
 but soon impress their reality upon the surprised 
 beholder. As a stately monument of the wealth and 
 superstition of Rome, and an architectural wonder, it 
 will ever be the central attraction of the Holy City. 
 From its roof in the clouds we looked with delight 
 upon the far spread landscape and its dotting villas, 
 
£70 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 and within the copper hall surmounting the dome, 
 which from the street looks no larger than an apple 
 dumpling, some half dozen curious Americans, more 
 patriotic than reverent, sang " Hail Columbia" with 
 the utmost nonchalance. 
 
 I dropped in at St. Peter's on Sunday morning, and 
 found a whole company of soldiers on their stiff knees 
 before one of the priests. What they had been about 
 I did not learn ; that they have at all times very 
 much to repent of, there can be no doubt ; they 
 always will while they remain in the service of one 
 of the greatest of earth's despots. But their penance 
 was wonderfully brief. In half a shake, they bounced 
 on their feet, shouldered their arms, and walked off. 
 Gaunt and cowardly looking chaps they were ; better 
 suited to squatting on their indolent knees in St. 
 Peter's, than standing up to skirmish with a handful 
 of truly courageous men. 
 
 The sumptuous art galleries of the Vatican have 
 been so often described that I shall not refer to our 
 visit to them further than to remark that weeks 
 rather than days may be spent in examining their 
 wealth of wonders. The present government cannot 
 preserve them too sacredly as indubitable proof of 
 the former glory of Rome. As a recreant descendant 
 boasts of his ancestral dignity, and thereby hopes to 
 cover his own shame, so to a certain degree may 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 271 
 
 these noble galleries plead a lenient criticism of the 
 present fallen and forlorn condition of the papal states. 
 
 In the mosaic manufactories attached to the Vatican 
 we saw, in process of completion, a number of mosaic 
 portraits of the popes, for the new church of St. Paul, 
 (without the walls.) "What patience and care with 
 little things it requires to prepare these conglomerate 
 and valuable works of art. I never before realized 
 the labor and consummate skill necessary to combine 
 the ten thousand distinct pebbles in a grand and accu- 
 rate whole. But commensurate with the toil and time 
 given to the perfection of these portraits will be the 
 truthfulness and endurance they are likely to enjoy. — 
 To this day the elegant mosaic representations of the 
 Apostles remain in St. Peter's as clear and undimmed 
 as when first completed. 
 
 From the patient mosaic workers of the Vatican we 
 may draw a golden lesson, viz : that in the undertak- 
 ings of life, strict and scrupulous accuracy in every 
 detail, however insignificant or tedious in itself, will 
 alone insure a career of perfect and enduring success. 
 It was shrewdly observed by Michael Angelo — " Tri- 
 fles make perfection, but perfection itself is no trifle." 
 
 It is rather a singular coincidence, that his Grace 
 Archbishop John Hughes, or " Sa grandeur Mon- 
 seigneur Ilqiies, Archveque de New York" as here 
 announced, and your very humble correspondent 
 
272 
 
 should have entered the Holy City on the same day. 
 Cardinal "Wiseman is also here, and one of the Hunga- 
 rian Cardinals, having never visited Rome since his 
 appointment until the present time, has to-day been 
 formally confirmed. The ceremony of giving him the 
 hat, or cap, was celebrated this morning at the 
 Vatican. I feasted my republican eyes on the great 
 display of uniformed State and Church authorities in 
 attendance. Cardinal after cardinal rolled up in the 
 rich coaches, and entered, followed by rows of gaudily 
 attired servants. The Swiss guard, the Pope's life 
 preservers, with their harlequin dress looked dashy 
 enough, as they mingled with the ecclesiastics. 
 
 I managed to get several admirable glimpses of the 
 Pope, as he sat at the far end of the chapel under his 
 mammoth mitre, surrounded by guards and red-coated 
 Cardinals. He is a fair-looking man, rather younger 
 than you would suppose, and possessed of fine eyes 
 and a good voice. The necessary oath having been 
 administered to the new Cardinal, the small red cap 
 was given him, and instantly he was saluted with a 
 kiss on each cheek from each of the Cardinals present. 
 Indeed these venerable dignitaries kiss one another 
 like school-girls. I saw them at the feminine work all 
 the morning, while passing from room to room, and 
 very good-natured and complacent they appeared. — 
 If common rumor be true, there is little of humility 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 273 
 
 and self-denial practiced by these high-living ecclesi- 
 astics. They quite ignore the old proverb — " A true 
 Cardinal shonld have his soul in sackcloth, though his 
 body be in scarlet." 
 
 In Rome you see all the extremes to which the pa- 
 pal faith tends. How much less of odium would attach 
 to the Pope and his religion had he no temporal pow- 
 er — no concern in the uncertain and even vexatious 
 political movements of his hot-headed countrymen- 
 no state battles to fight — no hireling army to cajole. 
 I quite agree with Coleridge, " The Pope ought never 
 to have affected temporal sway, but to -have lived re- 
 tired within St. Angelo, and to have trusted to the 
 superstitious awe inspired by his character and office. 
 He spoiled his chance when he began to meddle in 
 the petty Italian politics." 
 
 Since the return of Monsieur Bedini, the American 
 papers are subject to a more intolerant censorship than 
 ever. One of the bankers here tells me that his Boston 
 and New York files are frequently mutilated. P. re- 
 ceived a copy of the 'New York Observer this morn- 
 ing. It had been detained at the office a long time 
 and shows the marks of censorship ; an article from 
 the " Irish Correspondent," speaking rather plainly of 
 the Holy Church, is rendered unintelligible by the 
 grating of pumice stone ; you cannot decipher the cor- 
 respondent's remarks at all, but a long extract from 
 
274 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 one of the Pope's latest "bulls which lie liad introduced 
 to comment upon, is left untouched ! P. says he is 
 much obliged to the gentlemanly inspectors for deign- 
 ing to use pumice stone rather than the scissors, as he 
 is thereby privileged to read a most interesting article 
 printed on the back of the unbearable communica- 
 tion.* 
 
 Speaking of newspapers, perhaps in no other way is 
 the supreme darkness and superstition of the Church 
 of Rome more glaringly exhibited than in the surpris- 
 ing fact, that here in a city numbering its residents by 
 tens of thousands, the boasted centre of ancient and 
 modern art, but two newspapers are published, and 
 those with a paucity of materials, and editorial impo- 
 tence, of which the most obscure rural district in Eng- 
 land or America would be heartily ashamed. Thanks 
 to the liberty-loving Charles Albert and his worthy 
 successor, Sardinia is kept in no such barbaric night. 
 There are, as I have already written, some thirty well 
 conducted newspapers published in Turin alone. — 
 How much of the intelligence of that Capital^ 
 and all Sardinia, is due to their influence. 
 
 * " Postal arrangements at Rome are slightly out of joint. A comedian re- 
 cently applied for a letter at the post-office, and was told there were forty cents 
 to pay for it. < I can't pay that,' said he, < for I know what's in it.' <■ Well, 
 how much will you give V asked the postmaster. « Four sous is all it is worth 
 to me,' said the comedian. ' Well, take it then,' replied the postmaster, < for I 
 have read it, and it's only a love letter.' " 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 275 
 
 The strictest surveillance is kept over all who are 
 suspected to he anywise interested in advancing the 
 Protestant faith, and yet not a little would appear to 
 be annually done to expose the fallacies of the estab- 
 lished Church. My friend R. has been making inqui- 
 ries concerning the circulation of the scriptures in 
 Home. His inquiries have elicited many interesting 
 facts. One of the most efficient agents, is a Jewish 
 Rabbi, who, although making no pretensions to Chris- 
 tianity, says he considers Romanism closely akin to 
 idolatry, and that observation has satisfied him that 
 there is nothing so well calculated to reveal its absurd- 
 ities and improve the condition of the degraded Ital- 
 ians, as a knowledge of the revelations contained in 
 the Old and New Testaments. That he is sincere in 
 his statement we may judge from the activity which 
 he has long shown in favor of Protestantism. 
 
 Another individual, recently a Roman Catholic 
 priest, is constantly engaged in circulating the Word 
 of life, though every step must be taken with great 
 caution, the police being always on the alert, and 
 every other man a governmental spy. The time will 
 come when Rome shall no longer be sealed to the 
 entrance of the gospel light. May God hasten the day ! 
 The hotels of Rome are unexpectedly comfortable, 
 not only cheap, but one gets an equivalent for his 
 money in excessive attention. Indeed one is obliged 
 
276 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 to spend much of his time in acknowledging the salu- 
 tations of the well trained waiters. Ranged on every 
 floor, standing by the doors and doorways, you can't 
 move a step without seeing a half-dozen hats jerked 
 off, and a scraping and bowing beyond parallel. 
 Better be this way than surly or rude, as too often the 
 case with American servants. 
 
 The weather is exceedingly whimsical ; thermom- 
 eter stood at 38 degrees at seven yesterday morning, 
 and w r e had a regular snow-storm in the afternoon! 
 The natives stared as though a Daniel had come to 
 judgment. I was with a party of friends at the new 
 church of St. Paul's, when the furious storm com- 
 menced, but succeeded in getting back to the hotel 
 dry and comfortable, thanks to the good cover of our 
 carriage. Yivid lightning and stunning thunder 
 accompanied the snow, rain, and hail— for all came 
 down in liberal quantities. 
 
 Strange weather for southern Italy ; but I found, 
 some time since, that the boasted climate was about 
 as changeable and severe as our own. In some 
 respects it is really much worse. I think I never suf- 
 fered from more acute or penetrating winds. Not 
 content with irritating one's skin, they strike to the 
 very vitals. One never goes out at night unless abso- 
 lutely necessary. The sun, moon, and stars have no 
 better lustre than in America, and the skies are seldom • 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 277 
 
 more gorgeous than you may see them after an April 
 shower. 
 
 . As in Florence, so here, the American artists occupy 
 a very creditable position. "We have visited nearly 
 all the studios, beginning with that of Crawford, who 
 seems to rank first, and is unquestionably worthy the 
 wide reputation he enjoys. It is a pleasing indication 
 of the growing taste for art in our young country, that 
 the greater portion of the wealthy Americans who 
 visit Rome from year to year leave with our artists 
 generous orders for the best fruits of their patient and 
 skillful industry. 
 
 The suburbs of Rome abound in interest and must 
 be carefully studied to complete the understanding of 
 its former glory. Others have so oft and well described 
 their wonders that I shall not enter upon any recapitu- 
 lation of the same, but close my letter by a reference 
 to a visit to the graves of Shelley and Keats — two 
 English poets, each of whom with positive errors often 
 wrote with transcendant beauty. 
 
 Shelley, you remember, was drowned off the Italian 
 coast, and had not completed his 29th year when he 
 died. His body was consumed on a funeral pyre, in 
 the presence of Byron, Trelawney, and other of his sor- 
 rowing friends. A curious coincidence happened in 
 connexion with this ceremony ; when the flames were 
 extinguished, and they proceeded to gather up the 
 
278 ST. PAUI/S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 poet's ashes, it was found that every part of him was 
 consumed except his heart, which was untouched. 
 
 A little way out of the city we found the Protestant 
 or English cemetery. There is an old portion and a 
 new. In the former a dark flat marble slab, near to 
 the back wall, marks the tomb of Shelley. It bears 
 the following curious inscription : — 
 
 PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY, 
 
 Cor Cordian 
 
 NatusIV. Aug. MDCCXCII. 
 
 Obiit VIII. Jail, MDCCCXXI. 
 
 " Nothing of him that doeth fade, 
 
 But doth suffer a sea change 
 Into something rich and strange." 
 
 But it was to the grave of the youthful Keats in 
 the same yard, that my especial attention was attracted. 
 His poetic romance " Endymion," to the memory of 
 Chatterton, has ever been to me, 
 
 " A thing of beauty. " 
 
 His last words were " I am dying : I shall die easy : 
 don't be frightened, be firm and thank God it has 
 come." No doubt he looked to death as a glad relief 
 from the cares and malice of earth, which alas, his sen- 
 sitive nature was but too poorly fitted to endure. 
 There was much to admire in his character, and many 
 an earnest tear is dropped upon his quiet grave — 
 where amidst rich, glossy, and clustering ivy, a small 
 
THE HOLY CITY. 279 
 
 white marble slab, ornamented with a harp and bro- 
 ken strings, bears this striking epitaph : 
 
 This grave 
 
 Contains all that is mortal 
 
 of a 
 
 YOUNG ENGLISH POET, 
 
 who 
 
 on his death bed 
 
 In the Bitterness of his heart 
 
 At the Maliciousness of his enemies 
 
 Desired 
 
 These words to be Written 
 
 On his tomb-stone &c. 
 
 " Here lieth one 
 
 Whose name was Writ in Water." 
 
 Feb. 24th, 1821. 
 
 As I scattered a few fresh buds o'er the tomb of 
 this unfortunate son of genius, who at the early age 
 of twenty-four passed from life's battle, I could but 
 wish that, in the pretty imagination of his hours of 
 illness, he might feel the daisies, he loved so dearly, 
 growing over his silent resting place. 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 
 
 "We are delighted with Naples. It is a really lovely 
 and bewitching place, despite the stupid and ragged 
 lazzaroni crowding its every street, alley and lane. It 
 amply sustains the high character claimed for its 
 grand and enchanting bay, and surrounding gorgeous 
 landscapes. Let prejudiced tourists, (and there are 
 such) doubt and hesitate as they may, where, where, 
 oh ! where, can they find a spectacle so unspeakably 
 resplendent as Naples and its vine-clad vicinage, when 
 seen from the deck of the steamer entering from the 
 tossing Mediterranean, or better, from the summit of 
 Yesuvius on a cloudless day ? There is a magnitude 
 of grandeur, a striking variety and completeness of 
 romantic beauty in the dazzling and marvellous pano- 
 rama, that must inevitably satiate the most critical 
 eye. 
 
 The sun shines gaily and warmly at Naples, prying 
 into every nook and corner of the long high- walled 
 (280) 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 281 
 
 streets, sweeping across the rich suburban country, 
 gaily tinging the blue restless waves, playing on the 
 ever throbbing bosom of the great volcano, and auda- 
 ciously peering into the awful jaws of the fathomless 
 crater. 
 
 The streets of Naples are long, and many of them 
 straight to a degree quite unusual upon the continent. 
 Tall, dark-faced, black-haired, large-eyed men crowd 
 in at every corner ; commerce commands its votaries ; 
 trade has its disciples, and crafty they often are. Na- 
 ples is not an idle city. He who brands it such has 
 no knowledge of its characteristics, or willingly mis- 
 represents. Go into the main streets, turn into the by- 
 ways, and the din of honest industry everywhere 
 rings upon the opened ear. True, Naples deals lightly 
 in great articles of commerce. Her manufactures are 
 not such as the world talks loudly of, but yet just such 
 as every man, woman and child feels happy to patron- 
 ise. What dandy would go without his " kids," Paris 
 gives them to him in style. Naples, if not quite so 
 chaste, certainly at half the price, for Naples is econo- 
 mical. Pennies do the work of shillings — copper goes 
 where silver would in Britain. At a well-kept, clean, 
 light, well-aired, quiet hotel, with good waiters, good 
 meals, and a landlord full of smiles and skilled in half 
 a dozen useful languages, we have rooms, fronting the 
 bay, for the reasonable charge of a dollar to two dol- 
 
282 
 
 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 lars per day, as we happen to eat, drink, and ge 
 merry. 
 
 Good pavement and good gas lamps make a ride 
 through the streets of Naples highly agreeable by day 
 or by night. For something like fifteen cents per 
 hour, we are rattled about the city at a trotting-course 
 pace, in a more comfortable than attractive looking 
 two-wheeled vehicle, with a small ebony pony, driven 
 by a tall whiskered, amiable Neapolitan, a man of un- 
 usual capacity for his position. 
 
 Naples has many curious street customs. Here, for 
 the first time, I have seen herds of goats driven about, 
 and milked at the doors of the customers. The lactific 
 and sprightly creatures appear to heartily enjoy going 
 the rounds, and most accommodatingly " stand and 
 deliver " wherever required, and no one can question 
 the freshness or purity of the milk. 
 
 The maccaroni eaters have duly exhibited to me 
 their capacious and wonderful gullets, but it would be 
 supererogant to dwell upon their hackneyed charac- 
 teristics. They form an amusing faction of the lazza- 
 roni, and draw much small change from the traveler's 
 pocket, and for this very reason, perhaps, refrain from 
 any thing like labor. 
 
 "When it rains here, it certainly rains. None of your 
 London drizzling or Scotch mist, but an out-and-out 
 pouring, such as we have found quite too severe for 
 
 1 
 
 ' 
 
 [ 
 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 283 
 
 our out-door enjoyment during nearly all the present 
 week. The streets are deluged, and sometimes im- 
 passable. But they perhaps get no other thorough 
 cleansing, and it is a wise provision of Nature thus to 
 wash and purify them. Returning from a visit to the 
 catacombs, we were caught in one of these terrific 
 showers, and found the streets speedily transformed 
 into canals through which good-sized boats might pass 
 at ease. It was only by the kindly provision of im- 
 promptu bridges made at the crossings by the oblig- 
 ing guardsmen and others, that we were enabled to 
 make any progress whatever. 
 
 In churches Naples has much to show. The cathe- 
 dral known as St. Gennaro is said to occupy the site 
 where originally stood a pagan temple of Apollo. — 
 Many of the churches contain very rare works of art, 
 and all are well worth visiting — though less vivid in 
 interest than those of Florence and Rome. "What 
 with the crowds thronging, to worship, such as it is, 
 the swarming of the lazzaroni, the bustle of the busy 
 shopkeepers, and the net-work of soldiery, Sunday is 
 made a very lively and eventful day. 
 
 The population of the city is about five hundred 
 thousand, and the number of visitors (tourists) is said 
 to annually average about twelve thousand : — they 
 come chiefly from Great Britain, France, and the Uni- 
 ted States, and none are welcomed more heartily than 
 
284 
 
 ST. PAULS TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 the money-spending, curiosity-hunting Americans, 
 whom I have every day met in the shops, especially 
 in those for the sale of lava and coral ornaments or 
 jewelry, of which the most beautiful specimens are 
 made by the ingenious Neapolitan artisans. 
 
 The British chapel here is a neat affair, attached to 
 the palace of the Embassy, but in common with all 
 American tourists, we have been alike surprised and 
 indignant to find it necessary to pay four caiiini 
 (about thirty-two cents) each for a seat. If the Church 
 of England, with its vast wealth, and the large British 
 population of Naples, cannot sustain the preaching of 
 the gospel, except by this petty and contemptible 
 course, they had better abandon the field until they 
 can control sufficient means to do so. Their present 
 custom is disgraceful, and unworthy an intelligent and 
 generous people. I was sorry to find it practiced at 
 Florence, where there is even a larger number of per- 
 manent English residents of extensive means. 
 
 The King of Naples* is said to be the largest as well 
 as the ugliest man in the kingdom. He holds his chief 
 strength among the gens de pen, while with the more 
 intelligent classes he is very generally unpopular ; and 
 if his character is as reported, it is strange that his 
 wife or children entertain the slightest affection for 
 him. I was standing in one of the streets of Portici 
 
 * The late King Bomba. 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 285 
 
 one morning, when loud cries of the king ! the king ! 
 attracted my attention to a plainly "built carriage, 
 drawn by a pair of horses that would have made Sne- 
 diker's eyes sparkle. Three portly individuals were 
 the passengers ; they all smoked long segars with evi- 
 dent gusto. The stoutest man was pointed out as the 
 king. His dress was slightly military — small bands, 
 gilt buttons, and a fatigue cap. He made a very low 
 bow when I tipped my Yankee beaver. A royal 
 summer house is located at Portici, and to this his 
 Majesty was going, in company with two friendly 
 scions of imperial blood. 
 
 The Neapolitan army numbers 180,000 men, all 
 blessed with good appetites, but by no means excel- 
 lent soldiers. If half the idle fellows were at school, 
 the prosperity of the kingdom would be infinitely 
 more certain. Fortified by men of sound education, 
 by institutions of learning, by sound religious princi- 
 ples, a land may bid defiance to ugly men of war and 
 frowning castles. Strange does it seem, that with the 
 prosperity attending education and Protestantism, (as 
 developed wherever these important advantages are 
 enjoyed,) staring in the very eyes of the Italian rulers, 
 they yet hesitate to permit their introduction, and 
 cling with an incomprehensible tenacity to the false 
 power of ignorance and Pome. 
 
286 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 A railroad to Pompeii ! Te gods, what an idea ! — 
 But it is an iron reality. "We found ourselves at the 
 station just in time for the train, bought our tickets, 
 and took seats in ears quite as comfortable and elegant 
 as any in England or America. With a thrilling 
 whistle, we move on ; our long train, well crowded, 
 mainly with third-class passengers. The outskirts of 
 the city are soon passed, and we dash along the edge 
 of the lovely bay — the angry waves seeming ready to 
 inundate the road at every surge. Yesuvius nears ; — 
 the great black volcanic pile rears up a lofty, striking 
 picture. "We shudder lest the coarse black cinders 
 fall upon us, and ever and anon start as though the 
 ever-expected eruption had come ; but all is quiet. — 
 The grape yards and picturesque gardens decking the 
 base of the mighty mountain, look doubly beautiful as 
 the sun suddenly glitters from his dishabille, bringing 
 into bold relief every charming leaf and flower. Gar- 
 dening under the shadow of "Vesuvius ! Does it not 
 seem like rearing lambs on a lion's bosom ? Who 
 knows but that at any moment the liquid rock may 
 rush into the heart of the apparently secure garden, 
 and make a Pompeii of it, and a Pliny of its proprie- 
 tor ? For the time, danger may be distant ; but who 
 would not rather live a hundred miles than a hundred 
 rods from seething, treacherous Vesuvius ? 
 
 A few moments, and we stop at Herculaneum, or 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 287 
 
 the station adjoining it. The rocks hereabouts show 
 their volcanic nature. The stones all appear like 
 lava — they are of lava. Two or three additional brief 
 stoppages, and the Pompeii station is reached — -just 
 sixty minutes from Naples. An unwashed, uncouth 
 vagabond addresses us in broken English, and conveys 
 us a few rods to the entrance to the long buried city. 
 A government guide is here introduced — a brown- 
 faced old fellow, with dark blue trowsers, a heavy 
 cloak, and blue naval - cap, trimmed with faded scar- 
 let. Passing a guard of indolent soldiery, we wind 
 around a narrow pathway, and soon enter the well- 
 paved streets of ancient Pompeii, which are even 
 with the surrounding country, and not below, as those 
 of Herculaneum. The house first examined is said to 
 have been the residence of Diomedes. It was the first 
 discovered, and there is enough remaining to satisfy 
 the most skeptical of its surpassing splendor. Exten- 
 sive rooms, halls and gardens, elaborate fountains and 
 baths, prove its proprietor a man of taste and wealth. 
 In the long cellars may still be seen the ancient wine 
 jars, and at one point the imprint on the wall of the 
 skeletons of the suddenly smothered family. The 
 apartments on the ground floor appear to have been 
 exquisitely decorated with delicate stucco and elabor- 
 ate paintings. 
 
 "We walked leisurely through the vacant streets, 
 
288 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ever and anon halting to listen to the monotonous ex- 
 planations of our guide, who was particularly atten- 
 tive. The streets are remarkably straight, much more 
 so than those of many of the modern cities and towns 
 of Italy. 
 
 The pavement consists of irregular shaped flat stones 
 of large size, admirably preserved. Sidewalks remain 
 in most of the streets, and, in all, the curb-stone is per- 
 fect. The crossings consist of three large stones ; but 
 gutters do not appear to have been in vogue. "What 
 strange sensations filled our minds as we gazed 
 
 " On the wheel- track worn for centuries 
 And on the stepping stone from side to side, 
 O'er which the maidens with their water urns 
 Were wont to trip so lightly." 
 
 . Many street wells or fountains remain, and from the 
 public baths and bathing rooms in the private man- 
 sions, we may presume the city was well supplied 
 with water, and the people given to cleanliness. — 
 Around nearly all the houses open courts were built, 
 and there are numerous indications of a devotion to 
 floriculture on the part of the citizens. Beautiful mo- 
 saic floors still remain, though it is to be regretted 
 that nearly all the choice relics of a moveable nature 
 have been carried off to the Neapolitan and other mu- 
 seums. The walls of all the palaces, and many of the 
 more humble abodes, were frescoed. But few of the 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 289 
 
 buildings were above one story in height, and all were 
 built up to the line of the street. At one place we 
 saw a barber's shop ; the actual post or stand upon 
 which his chair had been placed. A number of ra- 
 zors were found on the premises. The ancients knew 
 enough to shave. Pliny observes that up to the 454th 
 year of Rome, precisely the most uncivilized period 
 of their empire, the Romans had no barbers ; but that 
 at that epoch P. Ticinius imported a supply of those 
 artists from Sicily. He gives to Scipio Africanus the 
 credit of introducing the fashion of shaving every 
 day. 
 
 The Tragic theatre is one of the finest edifices in 
 Pompeii, where the characteristics of an ancient thea- 
 tre may be closely studied. It is evident that the sur- 
 viving inhabitants returned after the destruction of 
 Pomeii, and carried away the decorations from the 
 buildings as far as possible. The Comic theatre must 
 have been a splendid affair ; the stone seats and mam- 
 moth stage are yet visible. The building was roofed 
 which was by no means common. Pew theatres of 
 the present day are so strongly, handsomely, or conve- 
 niently planned as this. 
 
 The temple of Isis is one of the most interesting rel- 
 ics. It measures about sixty-eight feet long by sixty 
 wide. The penetralia are shown, where the priests 
 concealed themselves when delivering their oracles. — 
 
 13 
 
290 st. paul's to st. sophia, 
 
 Our Italian guide grew irreverent when designating 
 this, and to our venture that the priests were hardened 
 characters in those days, boldly intimated his belief 
 that they were not a whit better at the present time ! 
 " But are you not a Roman Catholic ?" we asked. — - 
 " Oh, yes ; but I believe in the religion, not in the 
 priests !" 
 
 We found our greatest pleasure in a careful examin- 
 ation of the ruins of the amphitheatre — a colossal edi- 
 fice containing thirty-two rows of seats, capable of 
 containing twenty thousand spectators. A wide cor- 
 ridor, paved with lava, leads down to the entrance, 
 from which branch the passages to the arena, used for 
 the ingress of gladiators and beasts, and the egress of 
 the dead In many respects this building is more in- 
 teresting than the Colosseum at Rome. The massive- 
 ness of its masonry can but be admired, and remains 
 an imperishable monument to the skill of its trusty 
 builders. 
 
 Excavations are constantly being made at Pompeii, 
 though it is known from the old charts, that the main 
 portions of the cinerulent city have been found. It 
 was one of the finest cities of the Romans, and its tem- 
 ples are surpassed by no modern erections. 
 
 We continue our walk up the deserted streets, no- 
 ticing on either side the remains of buildings bearing 
 to this hour clear indications of the variety of purpo- 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 291 
 
 ses to which they were once appropriated. Here is 
 an inn, and here a stable ; and here, in close proxim- 
 ity, a row of tombs, in several of which are to be seen 
 the niches in which were placed the urned ashes of 
 the dead. We enter the shop of a baker, and are sur- 
 prised to find implements of his trade, resembling 
 closely those used by his craft at the present day. — ■ 
 There is the oven, the kneading trough, the tank for 
 water, and the marble counter ; and yet more, for the 
 bakers of Pompeii seemed to have united the trade of 
 a miller with their proper calling, the huge stones by 
 which the grain was ground. Here are several wine- 
 shops, in which are still to be seen the large earthen 
 wine and oil vessels, places for cooling wine, and what 
 is very curious, the stains discoloring the marble from 
 which the wine was sold. And here is a dungeon, in 
 which were found the remains of a prisoner, the chains 
 of his captivity still clinging to the bones of his wrists 
 and ankles — useless fetters for the captive of death. 
 
 It were easy to fill a volume with a description of 
 what may be seen at Pompeii, and more than a vol- 
 ume to record the impressions and to picture the mel- 
 ancholy images with which its desolations thrill the 
 soul. We look upon a city once filled with the pride 
 of life — the abode of luxury, the resort of the gay and 
 licentious, the mart of an extensive commerce, and 
 the receptacle of treasures of art of unsurpassed value. 
 
292 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 Now, it lies in silence before us a city of tlie dead, its 
 rains remaining like sepulchral monuments, to bear 
 witness to the manners and employments, the luxuries 
 and vices, the woes and final doom of the vast popula- 
 tion which once thronged its streets. 
 
 After visiting the city of Pompeii, the traveler natu- 
 rally repairs to the Museo Borbonico, in Naples, in 
 which storehouse of things curious and rare are many 
 apartments, in which the government preserves the 
 articles found at Pompeii. Here may be seen works 
 of art in mosaic, painting and sculpture, dug from the 
 ruins, which show that its inhabitants were as fine in 
 their artistic taste as they were corrupt in their morals. 
 Here, too, are articles of jewelry, finely wrought in 
 gold and precious stones ; bracelets, necklaces, and 
 rings, some of these latter yet encircling the bony fin- 
 gers they once adorned. Many of these ornaments are 
 as exquisite in their workmanship and as tasteful in 
 their style as any which are to-day to be found in the 
 shops of Pome. The lapse of eighteen centuries has 
 witnessed little improvement in the art of the jeweler. 
 Here, too, are articles of domestic use, lamps and can- 
 delabras curious and graceful in their construction ; — 
 kitchen furnaces, with all the conveniences of modern 
 articles df the kind ; steel-yards and weights, tea-urns 
 and water pitchers of bronze, vessels for cooking, and 
 dishes of all kinds ; also many articles of food, in some 
 
NAPLES AND POMPEII. 293 
 
 cases partly cooked ; bread, bearing yet the name of 
 the baker ; walnuts and prunes charred by the heat ; 
 eggs, and honey, and olives. In fact, such is the vari- 
 ety of things of this sort in this vast repository, that 
 one may form an idea of the domestic life of the 
 Pompeians, almost as perfectly as if to-day the city 
 were living, and he a guest within its walls. 
 

 HEKCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS. 
 
 After Pompeii, or even before, the now subterra- 
 nean city of Herculaneum, and the burning mountain 
 of Vesuvius merit, and abundantly remunerate the 
 most careful survey. They are genuine wonders whose 
 interest it would be difficult to exaggerate, and the 
 study of which must remain among the traveler's 
 more vivid and agreeable remembrances of Southern 
 Italy. 
 
 Like the Acropolis at Athens, or the castle of old 
 Edinburgh, but with far more of savage dignity, the 
 huge volcano o'er-shadows the fair city of Naples, and 
 is alike an object of fear and admiration. Fear lest 
 at any moment its sulphurous mouth may open and 
 vomit hot destruction over the land, and irrepressible 
 admiration of its colossal proportions and royal bear- 
 ing, no less than the wildly beautiful glare of the 
 fiery smoke ever, even in its most peaceful moods, 
 escaping from the belching crater. A dark night 
 
 brings this lurid flame into bold relief and furnishes an 
 (294) 
 
HERCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS. 295 
 
 awful light, whereby, for many leagues around, the 
 noctivagant landsman or mariner may know his course 
 and bearing. This friendly office has naturally won 
 grim Yesuvius many grateful friends. 
 
 Herculaneum is in the same direction though not 
 so far from Naples as Pompeii. 
 
 The scattered ruins of the buildings of that ancient 
 city, lie directly within the modern, and not at all 
 attractive, town of Portici, some fifteen minutes' ride 
 by railway from Naples. A guide met me at the 
 railway station, and in ten minutes we had walked to 
 the gateway to the old theatre, the most grand of the 
 buildings yet discovered. An odd old genius, wear- 
 ing a faded military uniform, proceeded to light three 
 wax candles ; taking two to himself, and giving me the 
 other, he beckoned me to follow. We made the 
 descent of a long flight of modern stone steps, and 
 came to the stage of the building. There it stood, 
 perfect and grand, apparently none the worse for its 
 age. With a dexterous move, the acquirement of 
 great experience, the old guide fastened one of the 
 candles to the wall at one extremity of the stage, and 
 bid me walk with him to the far end, to get an idea 
 of its size. Then we passed into the galleries, dress- 
 ing-rooms, rear passage ways, and a variety of well- 
 preserved nooks and corners, all of which served to 
 increase my admiration for the genius, ingenuity and 
 
296 st. patjl's to st. sophia. 
 
 taste of tlie ancient architects. The whole structure 
 was buried in lava to the depth of some fifty feet, and 
 now buildings stand directly over it. On several 
 points in the walls were remnants of choice frescoes, 
 and though most of the ornaments have been taken 
 off to the museums, enough of sculpture remains to 
 tell that the edifice was one of great richness of dec- 
 oration. A few rods from the theatre, in another 
 street, we visited the discoveries of cottages recently 
 made. The remains are quite as interesting, though 
 not nearly so extensive, as those at Pompeii. 
 
 " You will have to pay one piaster for the pony, and 
 one for the guide," said the Frenchman to whom I 
 had made application for an outfit to Vesuvius. 
 Knowing this to be merely an asking price, and far 
 more than generally paid, I offered the fellow half the 
 amount, and the proposal was quickly accepted. He 
 certainly provided an excellent pony. Trotting up. 
 narrow streets and lanes, with the guide close behind, 
 swinging his long mountain stick, I soon reached the 
 outskirts of Portici, and struck upon the trail for Vesu- 
 vius. Here we were surrounded by a score or more, 
 of young and old men, all claiming to be guides, and 
 capable of rendering material assistance. The reiter- 
 ated assurance that one guide was quite sufficient, did 
 not at all allay their impertinent offers, nor prevent 
 them from following in rude procession. The bad 
 
HEKCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS. 297 
 
 weather had kept all visitors away for a number of 
 days, and the leeches were anxious to bite. Putting 
 the pony to speed we soon cleared the whole party, 
 save two resolute fellows, who, though terribly hurried, 
 managed to catch up, after we had somewhat reduced 
 our speed. They rendered us a little service in the 
 ascent, but did not make any thing great of it. 
 
 The pathway from Portici is one of the worst over 
 which I ever drove a horse. At spots it was only by 
 cat-like climbing and clinging that the little nag got 
 along. Repeatedly it seemed as though he could go 
 no farther, but he never even hesitated or missed his 
 footing during the entire distance. Those who have 
 made the perilous ascent of Mount "Washington may 
 form some idea of the precipitous journey. 
 
 In a little more than an hour we arrived at the her- 
 mitage, the famous old inu where all voyagers halt 
 and refresh. A few rods on, and we passed the neat 
 observatory building, recently erected by the king. 
 A grand view of the mountain may be had from this 
 point, and the fine building, surrounded with its 
 curious fences of lava, seems to stand like a defiaut 
 work of art, daring the very jaws of one of nature's 
 most furious creations. 
 
 On, over perhaps a mile of desolate roadway, in the 
 heart of the plains of the lava, and we come to the 
 foot of the cone where the horses are left to rest, and 
 
298 ST. patjl's to st. sophia. 
 
 
 the more difficult part of the ascent commences. Two 
 or three large chairs were lying near, and the guides 
 wanted to take me upon their shoulders. I much 
 preferred to walk, and the task was immediately com- 
 menced. It proved no joke ; at every step my boots 
 would plunge nearly a foot deep into the fine sand or 
 gravel, and, combined with the dreadfully steep 
 ascent, made it hard work to get along at all. Three- 
 quarters of an hour, and an unusual stock of persever- 
 ance and patience, brought us to the top. A slight 
 fog, which had overtaken us when part way up, now 
 changed to one of startling density. A few moments' 
 rest, and we set off for the crater, not without some 
 doubt, however, as to the propiety of venturing near 
 such a fearful opening without a clear sky and consid- 
 erable less wind. Walking around the top of the smo- 
 king mountain, the wind so strong that on one or two 
 occasions we had positively to cling to the lava, to keep 
 from being blown heels over head, into the crater, or 
 somewhere else — scrambling and scratching, hanging 
 on to the guide, and he hanging on to me — I tumbled, 
 rather than otherwise, to the very edge of the boiling 
 abyss. Hurling a huge stone down the dreadful open- 
 ing, the distant echo told us loudly of its mighty 
 depth. At times the sulphuric vapor came into our 
 nostrils at such a rate as to make us quite despair of 
 ever regaining our breath. From the seams of the 
 
HERCULANEUM AND VESUVIUS. 299 
 
 rocks issued forth steam and hot air, hot enough to 
 boil an egg ; while, to my infinite surprise, at a few 
 feet distant, and actually within the crater, I stuck 
 my boots into two feet of snow, or accumulated hail- 
 stones ! This was a union of fire and water more 
 strange than any I had ever encountered. Think 
 of it — two feet of snow in the calorific crater of Vesu- 
 vius, and that, too, in Southern Italy, in the month 
 of November ! 
 
 But with so much of sulphur, fog and wind, it was 
 judicious to think of a return to lower regions, and 
 with much difficulty we made our way up from the 
 crater, (for we had with perhaps undue temerity, 
 descended full an hundred feet into its very jaws,) 
 and taking one more survey of the chaotic mass around 
 — for the fog would permit us to see but a few feet off 
 - — started on the descent. Such a getting down hill 
 cannot be described. Eeally it seemed as though we 
 were going by telegraph. Such strides ; yards instead 
 of feet at a time. Less than ten minutes, and we were 
 down to the pony's stall. At about midway of the 
 descent I made a brief halt, to enjoy the superb view 
 of Naples and the surrounding country — the world 
 renowned bay, and its blooming islands, — scenery, 
 which the best pens of the world have ever praised 
 without bounds. The sun's bright rays — for the fog 
 had only visited the heights of the mountain — threw 
 
300 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the 
 
 a golden hue over everything, which added to 
 rainbow tints of the foliage, the peering spires of the 
 city, and the dancing waves of the bay, rendered the 
 tout ensemble one of rare and boundless splendor, equal 
 to any I had enjoyed in all Italy. 
 
 At the bottom of the hill we found pony all right, 
 and hoped for a speedy and comfortable return to 
 Naples, but when near the hermitage, a dreadful storm 
 of rain and wind overtook us. So hard did the wind 
 blow, that at times the pony had to stop abruptly in 
 the road to catch his breath. Arriving at the hermit- 
 age, we were soaking wet from head to foot. A gloomy 
 stone shed sheltered pony from the pitiless storm, 
 while I retired with the guide to the house, which 
 proved almost as rude as any Irish cabin I remember 
 to have entered in " ould Erin." Here we met a 
 clownish old fellow, and a more decent soldier, but 
 neither could afford satisfactory information as to its 
 clearing up. So, after a half-hour's delay, and a taste 
 of very poor Lacrimi Christi, we made off. If the 
 ascent seemed impracticable, the descent appeared 
 doubly so ; but pony never winced at the rocky path- 
 way — now rendered more difficult than ever, by the 
 fearful current of water rushing over it. Step after 
 step, down, down, down we came, all as wet as sop, 
 and sadly forlorn. The rain continued, and at times 
 poured with increased vehemence. At last we reached 
 
IIERCULANEUH AND VESUVIUS. 301 
 
 the village of Portici, where every one seemed deter- 
 mined to add eclat to our return, and as I pushed the 
 pony to a Gilpin pace, and plunged through alley and 
 lane ; 
 
 " The dogs did bark, the children scream'd, 
 
 Up flew the windows all : 
 
 And every soul cried out, well done ! 
 
 As loud as he could bawl." 
 
 Whether every returned pilgrim from the crater, is 
 thus cheered, I cannot tell. Certain it is that in my 
 excursions in Italy, I enjoyed nothing more than the 
 pellmell return to this town, from whence I took the rail, 
 and in a very short time was back safely at the hotel in 
 Naples, well satisfied with the day's adventures, though 
 rather uncomfortable from the dampness of my gar- 
 ments. 
 
 The ascent of Vesuvius though by far the most 
 hazardous and fatiguing excursion to be made in the 
 vicinity of Naples, should not, as I have intimated, on 
 any account be neglected. Better leave Paris with- 
 out entering the Louvre, or Florence without a stroll 
 in the Cascine, than quit Naples without scrambling 
 up the cone and venturing at least a reasonable dis- 
 tance down the mouth of the crater, which with its 
 sulphurous fumes and impenetrable blackness, is more 
 eminently suggestive of the infernal hereafter than 
 any place short of the great original. 
 
« THE CITY OF THE SULTAN." 
 
 Ordinarily the approach to the " City of the Sul- 
 tan," either by the Marmora or Euxine is exuberantly 
 superb. Travelers of all nations have literally 
 exhausted the vocabulary of extasy in attempting to 
 portray its bewildering romance. But we were doomed 
 to misfortune, and forced to forego our anticipated 
 raptures, by the stern decree of the storm-king, who 
 reigns in the Orient quite as imperiously as in the 
 Occident. 
 
 It was a night full of shadows, starless and dreary, 
 as our crowded steamer ploughed the tumultuous 
 waves of the angry Marmora, and with the morning, 
 the dense mist which had filled the atmosphere since 
 the going down of the sun, changed to a drenching 
 rain, penetrating to every nook and corner of our roll- 
 ing home, and completely shutting out the view of 
 the distant and longed for city, which the captain's 
 careful reckoning assured us would otherwise be 
 plainly visible. 
 (302 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 303 
 
 We were nearly opposite the Seraglio point, when 
 we caught the first glimpse of the graceful minarets 
 of ancient Byzantium and its clustering suburbs. 
 
 As the anchor was dropped opposite the Custom 
 House, and the great valve of the boiler opened for 
 the escape of the surplus steam, the boatmen swarmed 
 about the vessel like so many industrious fleas, and 
 the comparison will not be thought inapt by those 
 who have had to submit to their sharp biting, for more 
 unblushing extortionists are not to be encountered 
 even among the flagrant swindlers of Italy. 
 
 Making the best bargain we could, we were soon 
 taken bag and baggage to the Custom House, a ver- 
 minous rookery, jammed with an indiscriminate mix- 
 ture of goods in box, bale, and parcel, and vocal with 
 the cries of excited porters, and vexed merchants and 
 clerks. Under the peculiar circumstances the air of 
 cool indifference and ease assumed by the cross-legged 
 officials who sat around the building was as amusing 
 as provoking. Not one that I noticed in answer to 
 the torrent of inquiries and complaints, offered a 
 response at any length without pausing to take several 
 distinct and prolonged puffs upon his chiboque. But 
 luckily we were detained but a moment, and mivabile 
 dictu ! had nothing to pay. 
 
 A stout hamel, or porter, undertook the double task 
 of guiding us and transporting our luggage to Misser- 
 
304: st. Paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ie's Hotel, the St. Nicholas of Constantinople, but only 
 resembling the great American caravansary in the 
 exorbitance of its charges. Now began the ascent of 
 the steep streets from the landing at Galata, for Con 
 stantinople has no wharves or piers, and in the graphic 
 language of that prince of French travelers, Gautier, 
 "the town every where plunges its feet into the 
 water." And such streets as we were forced to climb ! 
 even the contracted Italian towns had failed to give 
 us a premonition of their infamous character. It was 
 truly amazing to find the hamel making good progress 
 with his burden, while we without incumbrance 
 found it next to impossible to keep upon our feet, for 
 the 
 
 " Pavements fang'd with murderous stones." 
 
 The holes, the sloughs, the ups and downs, were 
 worthy a prairie trail, rather than the leading streets 
 of a metropolitan city. But these were endurable 
 when compared with the test to which they put our 
 nasal organs. The two and seventy stenches Cole- 
 ridge counted in the streets of Cologne, could not pos- 
 sibly have been more horrible than the effluvias 
 exhaling from the ofial and garbage, left to decay in 
 these cumulous by-paths. How those doomed to per- 
 manently tread their stifling mire, manage to survive, 
 is a question fit to puzzle the most intelligent sanitary 
 student. Little wonder that when an epidemic devel- 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 305 
 
 opes itself here its victims fall like grain before the 
 reaper's sickle. Even for that favored class of the pop- 
 ulation, the dogs, (of which I shall have more to say 
 anon,) who have the best portions of the streets for 
 their hunting grounds, the accommodations are far 
 from inviting, and not at all in accordance with the 
 spirit of the Koran. 
 
 As you may presume much of the vapory enchant- 
 ment which the city presents from the harbor, is dis- 
 sipated on entering its rude and nauseous streets, and 
 ere the traveler reaches his hotel he is satisfied that 
 its unique buildings and novel customs, its filth and 
 irregularity are to say the least a very disagreeable 
 and discreditable feature, and one which must greatly 
 lessen the pleasures of his visit. 
 
 A very slight expense would provide several thor- 
 oughfares of which any city in Christendom might 
 well be proud. I know of no place so susceptible of 
 improvement, and yet more inexcusably neglected. 
 If Abdul Medjid would devote only one-half of his 
 palace and harem expenses to the improvement of the 
 streets, his name would henceforth be far more grate- 
 ful in the ears of all the Frank population and tourists, 
 if not in those of his own subjects, a portion of whom 
 at least, have a progressive tendency. 
 
 Pera, the district to which we had been directed, is 
 the new Edinburgh of Constantinople. It is now the 
 
306 
 
 st. paul 9 s to st. sophia. 
 
 main place of residence of the foreign population, 
 that is to say the English, French, Italians and such 
 Americans as may be here from time to time. It is 
 higher and usually more cleanly (if cleanliness is 
 known here at all,) than Stamboul, and in many 
 respects a better district, while the influence of its 
 large Frank population is at once perceptible. There 
 are even yet streets in Stamboul where the giaour can 
 not walk without being liable to insult, while here he 
 is, in the day time at all events, as entirely free from 
 molestation as the most venerable Mohammedan. 
 
 «5fr X # ■& •& X 
 
 We were at Misserie's and the Globe Hotel for sev- 
 eral weeks, but are now more economically and com- 
 fortably located in private apartments with an Arme- 
 nian family, and I make the city and its peculiari- 
 ties my daily study. Of course it is vastly different 
 from any of the strictly European capitals, and pre- 
 sents many novelties which none of them can boast. 
 
 All travelers have written elaborately of the 
 Bazaars, and I have found them an entertaining, if 
 not profitable resort. In the vast concourse of eager 
 traffickers you encounter every variety of face, from 
 that of the fanatic dervish and timid Jew, to that of 
 the Armenian belle, fresh, rosy and laughing — and 
 the goods and wares have all the gaudy and unique 
 finery of finish peculiar to the East . 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 307 
 
 " A dazzling mass of gems, and gold, and gliter, 
 Magnificently mingled in a litter." 
 
 The cafes cannot be compared to those of Paris or 
 Marseilles. Furnished in the most ordinary manner, 
 and often positively filthy, they offer little to attract 
 the stranger, until by dint of much perseverance, he 
 shall have acquired a taste for the " dark and turbid 
 coffee" of which the Orientals are so extravagantly 
 fond. 
 
 It was Bentikoe, a Dutch physician, if I remember 
 rightly, who said that tivo hundred cups of tea might 
 be drank in a day by a single person, and with great 
 benefit to the individual ! and Horace Smith was per- 
 suaded, as all the English people appear to be, of its 
 " benign influences upon vitality, hospitality, convivi- 
 ality, comicality and all the ' alities.' " 
 
 The Turks substitute Java and Mocha for Young 
 Hyson and Oolong, and drink morning, noon and 
 night, though nothing can excite many of the " alities" 
 in their staid and decorous nature. The coffee is 
 served in small cups at an incredibly low price, and 
 to those who cannot endure its strength, furnished as 
 it ever is without milk or sugar, there is not a little 
 pleasure in seeing the solid comfort with which the 
 lounging Moslem sips cup after cup, and smacks his 
 unctuous lips, as though fully and gratefully accepting 
 the Bentikoe-ian theory. 
 
308 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 The cafes take the place of the porter houses of 
 New York, and the gin palaces of London, and are an 
 excellent substitute, for coffee, however strong, does 
 not entail " woes and mischief, wounds and sorrow, 
 sin and shame" upon those who partake of it even to 
 apparent excess. 
 
 London is famous for its street cries and pedlars, 
 but I have nowhere met more motley and persistent 
 hawkers than here. Before we are out of bed in the 
 morning our ears are filled with their stentorian shouts, 
 for all the Orientals have powerful lungs and do not 
 allow them to suifer for exercise. First comes the 
 coffee dealer, for, as if the cafes were not numerous 
 enough, the liquid is a common street commodity. 
 He will sell us a cup or a gallon all scalding hot, and 
 if we may believe his story, immensely palateable. 
 Then follows the blancmange merchant and the sherbet 
 vender, with his cool and popular beverage, in a warm 
 day very refreshing. And amid a swarm of other per- 
 ipatetic tradesmen, the confectioner approaches, and 
 much of the confectionery is delicate and good. The 
 Orientals have a sweet tooth, and in the shops great 
 quantities of sugar mixtures are daily disposed of. 
 The fig paste or rahat-el-hulkum often sent to America, 
 is a standard article, though not so much sought as 
 the halva, which is consumed like bread and butter 
 and largely relished by all classes. It is prepared in 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 309 
 
 large forms, and sold by the slice or by weight, and 
 much resembles molasses candy. 
 
 Perhaps the most novel of the street brokers are 
 those who shake their bags of coppers in your face, 
 and beg to exchange for a small discount any coin or 
 bill you may hand them. These nomadic cambists 
 are callid enough to shave a Wall street bear, and yet 
 every Frank must have found them a great conven- 
 ience, especially if he sallied forth to the bazaars, 
 with his pocket full of paper piasters. 
 
 The bakers have a curious fashion of supplying 
 many qualities of bread from that as nearly black as 
 soot, to a fair Genesee hue, and the loaves are retailed 
 slice by slice and at a price to which the starveling 
 cannot demur. The industrious bakers work with a 
 will, and in many cases their shops are so exposed to 
 the public gaze that every step of their labor, from 
 the kneading of the dough to the selling of the loaf, 
 or its fractions, can be plainly seen by all. Perhaps 
 such public exposure would insure better bread from 
 bakers in other and more refined communities. 
 
 It is a belief of the Moslem that when the blessed 
 are all received into Paradise, then the earth will be- 
 come one vast loaf of bread, which the hand of the 
 Almighty will hold out to them like a cake. 
 
 The stores and shops are usually small and unpre- 
 tending. There are no great windows, and showy 
 
310 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 cards as in English and American cities, and adver- 
 tising except by word of mouth, is evidently unknown. 
 The women never appear as shop-keepers, though 
 they are apparently as fond of shopping as their 
 Occidental sisters, and crowd the bazaars almost to the 
 exclusion of the other sex. 
 
 Constantinople may be said to be in a constant 
 cloud of smoke, but it does not arise above the house- 
 tops, and comes from the universal pipe^ rather than 
 the industrious chimneys, as in Liverpool and London. 
 Everybody carries his tobacco with him, and should he 
 perchance forget his pipe, there are pedlars ever ready 
 to supply him ; indeed he can at any corner have a pipe 
 filled and lighted at a moment's notice. Smoking has 
 been pronounced " necessary to the existence of the 
 Turk." From the zeal with which it is practiced one 
 would think it a catholicon for every ill Oriental flesh 
 is heir to. It is a strange thing, says Gautier, " that 
 tobacco now in such universal use throughout the 
 East, has been the subject of the severest interdiction, 
 on the part of many former Sultans, More than one 
 Turk has paid with his life, for the luxury of smok- 
 ing : and the ferocious Amurat IV., more than once, 
 made the head of the smoker fall with his pipe." 
 
 The tobacco and pipe shops are very numerous, 
 and the social position of the Turk is easily told by 
 the value of his pipe, or its amber mouthpiece, which 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAH. 311 
 
 to be unexceptionable, should be of a pale lemon color, 
 partly opaque, and without spot, or flaw, or vein. 
 Such a one will command from one to three hundred 
 dollars, and sometimes much more. 
 
 A collection of pipes worth from twenty to thirty 
 thousand dollars, is said to be not unusual among the 
 high dignitaries and richer private persons. It is in 
 fact an Oriental mode of displaying the possession of 
 wealth. 
 
 It is perhaps not remarkable that a custom so prev- 
 alent in the East as smoking should grow apace upon 
 all who linger among the Orientals. Let the stranger 
 abhor tobacco as he may, if he remain here a few 
 months, he will as inevitably take to his chibouque 
 or nargilhe as to his kaique, and the fragrant fumes 
 incident to the burning of the weed, will become his 
 daily and indispensable solace and delight. Even 
 the dignified missionaries give way to the universal 
 passion, and vary their sacred duties with frequent 
 recourse to the seductive narcotic. 
 
 The foul American habit of chewing tobacco is 
 made the subject of much derision by the Moslems. 
 
 The Bazaars, the post office, and the public build- 
 ings generally, are in Stamboul, which is divided 
 from Pera, by the Golden Horn, a branch of the sea, 
 bridged at several points, and always alive with 
 small boats, or kaiques, as they are called — a graceful 
 
312 
 
 ST. PAUL'S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 sort of canoe, by far the prettiest water conveyance I 
 have yet seen ; propelled by one, or two, or more 
 sturdy oarsmen as the case may be, they cut the blue 
 waters with surprising velocity, and offer a means of 
 travel at once expeditious, agreeable and inexpensive. 
 We have made many excursions in them and always 
 to our great enjoyment. 
 
 But I was about to tell you of the Post office, where 
 with diligent search we failed to discover a single 
 letter ; though the other appointments were generally 
 good. The correspondence of the country is by no 
 means extensive, the postage high, and the depart- 
 ment consequently not of the first importance. All 
 about the building were stationed letter writers, a 
 useful class of men, who, furnished with pens, ink, 
 and paper, and a good supply of brains, for a small 
 compensation, direct, write or translate a letter in 
 almost any language you may suggest. I have 
 thought such public chirographers and translators 
 might prove an exceeding convenience even in New 
 York, where those who have stores adjacent to the Post 
 office are constantly annoyed by requests to write, 
 read, answer, direct, or interpret letters, for those 
 who are themselves incapable to the task, and who 
 often express as much surprise at receiving a letter 
 as did Mr. "Weller, who you will remember, said, he 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 313 
 
 didn't know as how any of the gentlemen of his 
 acquaintance could write. 
 
 I confess to no little surprise at the stalwart and 
 graceful physical bearing of the Turks. Nowhere, 
 have I seen such uniformly well developed and 
 muscular men. Those from twenty to thirty years of 
 age, are extremely athletic and powerful, while those 
 farther advanced in life hold their strength to a 
 degree that must surprise the robust and broad 
 shouldered European. . 
 
 In a company of an hundred Turks not ten will be 
 found to measure less than six feet in height, indeed 
 the small of stature, deformed and weak, are appa- 
 rently a smaller proportion than in any European 
 nation. The face is often very finely formed, the eye 
 sharp and brilliant, the hair dark and glossy, and the 
 cheeks tinged with a bronze hue glowing with health 
 and vigor. As a race, though of less swarthy com- 
 plexion, they much resemble in figure, and nobility 
 of carriage, the North American Indian. This will 
 not hold true however of the epicurean pashas and 
 state dignitaries, who are often disfigured by an 
 unnatural corpulency, the result of indolent habits 
 and inordinate appetites. 
 
 The Armenians, whom Dr. D wight denominates, 
 the " Anglo-Saxons of the East," are a shrewd clear- 
 headed race, in appearance not so sturdy as the Turks 
 
 14 
 
314 ST. PAUl/s TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 but nevertheless well proportioned, and often posi- 
 tively handsome. They form nearly a third of the 
 whole population of the city, and it is among them 
 that the American and other missionaries, have met 
 the greatest success in their work of evangelization. 
 
 Most of the crime and disorder of the city is 
 attributed to the Greek population (which is very 
 large), and not without reason, for it is the lowest and 
 most unscrupulous. Nearly every night the dark 
 streets and by-ways of Galata, the district along the 
 water's edge, are the scene of robbery, assault and 
 assassination. The Greek ruffian has the least possible 
 regard for human life, and would cut his fellow's 
 throat from ear to ear with as little hesitancy as he 
 would plunge his glittering stilletto to the heart of a 
 dog. And in turn the Turk has so little respect for 
 the Greek, that when he is caught in any of his mis- 
 demeanors, his punishment is prompt and terrible. 
 A short time since, several Greek pirates were caught, 
 and brought to Stamboul, and this morning their 
 headless bodies were exposed to the public gaze in 
 the chief thoroughfares. A ghastly spectacle and a 
 fearful warning to all transgressors. Turkish justice 
 is usually speedy and severe. An English gentleman 
 had reason to suspect a few days since that certain 
 articles of wearing apparel had been pilfered from his 
 trunks by his Mohammedan servant. He brought 
 
THE CITY OF THE SULTAN. 315 
 
 the case before the court, but quickly withdrew it 
 when after a brief examination the presiding justice 
 was about to sentence the culprit to have his mouth 
 slit from ear to ear, and afterwards the ears taken off 
 close to the head. 
 
 The Turkish females and many of the Armenian, 
 still rigorously adhere to the provoking yashmak^ 
 which makes it next to impossible to satisfactorily 
 define their facial lineaments, but no language can do 
 justice to their great kohinoor eyes, black, brilliant 
 and captivating, though not so wicked as those of the 
 French and Italian coquette. Their stature is often 
 short and dumpy, and in this particular they form a 
 striking contrast to the men, who by the by, though 
 allowed (the Turks) to have four wives, seldom have 
 more than one. 
 
 Only the Sultan, the viziers, pashas, beys and other 
 persons of great wealth or high rank have large 
 harems, as the luxury is enormously expensive. 
 
 The Turkish pasha will never allow a word of 
 conversation regarding his domestic affairs, and his 
 home is never open to the male giaour, consequently 
 little is known as to what sort of wives or house- 
 keepers the women make. They are certainly out 
 
 * The yashmak is not a mere semi-transparent veil, but rather a good substan- 
 tial petticoat applied to the face : it thoroughly conceals all the features except 
 the eyes. — Eothen. 
 
316 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 of doors a great deal, and for this should look more 
 ruddy and healthful than they usually do. 
 
 Of course I have not been in the imperial harem, 
 but on two or three occasions have met the court 
 ladies riding in their cumberous araba's through the 
 main street of Pera. Once I saw them at a photo- 
 graphist's, evidently much pleased with the specimens 
 of his skill. Their fine veils were scarcely sufficient 
 to hide their pale features, which had all the charac- 
 teristics of the passive Oriental beauty, strikingly set 
 off by the large penetrating eyes. 
 
 In all their excursions these houris are attended by 
 stalwart eunichs, who are very prompt to clear the 
 way, and so far as possible shield their fair charge 
 from the public gaze. They are not always success- 
 ful, however, and I am half inclined to think the 
 eloquent eyes rather desire than otherwise to escape 
 the closely drawn curtains of the araba, and hold 
 converse with the outer world, so repulsive to the 
 ebony gentlemen. 
 
 The habitual covering of the face throws a romance 
 about all the fair Orientals and adds immensely to 
 one's desire to know them better. Debarred, how- 
 ever, by the stern rule of the land, an outside 
 barbarian can only interchange glances with the 
 gentle houri, and reserve his heart for the less restrain- 
 ed and more beautiful daughter of his own land. 
 
THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP. 
 
 February, cold, dreary* and boisterous in the 
 States, is exceedingly quiet, sunny, and bland in the 
 oriental world. Friday last was one of the best days 
 imaginable, and R. and I concluded we might as well 
 improve its inviting noon by a look at his serene 
 highness, Abdul Medjid, the reigning Sultan of all 
 the Turkeys. Neither of us had the slightest idea as 
 to where he thought of going to perform his devo- 
 tions, as he vacillates from one mosque to another 
 with strange irregularity — first favoring Stamboul, 
 then Top-hana, then Orta-keuy, arid so on. By dint 
 of intense perseverance, and the aid of two Turkish 
 words, all we could command, we finally got a boat- 
 man to understand we w^ere anxious to see the Sul- 
 tan, and we wished him to take us to him, wherever 
 he might be, intimating at the same time that by do- 
 ing so, we would assign him a liberal backsheesh ; 
 but failing, he would in all probability go home with 
 (317) . 
 
318 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 his pockets comparatively empty. With a peculiar 
 expression of satisfaction at our intimations, of which 
 he probably did not understand a word save the ever 
 welcome " backsheesh," we jumped into the frail 
 kaique, stretched ourselves on the smooth floor, and 
 greasing his great white oars, unshifting his bright 
 calico jacket, and attending to other duties always 
 rigidly observed by those of his profession, he quickly 
 pulled us out into the deep channel of the broad, gay 
 Golden Horn. Skillful indeed were his movements, 
 as we swept swiftly through the throng of huge black 
 steamers and sailing craft anchored on every side — 
 the winged representatives of nations far and near. 
 E. smilingly said he meant to take things easy, and 
 getting the good-natured kaiquejee to fill his long 
 cherry- stick pipe, he went to puffing as though he 
 were born and bred in the land of the prophet. I 
 turned to the pages of " Christianity Eevived in the 
 East," a copy of which I had just received from Dr. 
 Dwight. For a long time w r e were gliding rapidly 
 along, as softly as though upon a sea of paper. No 
 discordant ripple appeared on the fair bosom of the 
 oriental waters : and when E. had cleverly exhausted 
 his tobacco, and I raised my eyes from my interesting 
 volume, we were opposite the grand palace of the 
 Sultan, at the pretty suburb Beshiktash, some three 
 miles from our starting point. A long row of royal 
 
THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP. 319 
 
 kaiques moored to a pier adjoining the palace, served 
 to assure us that we were in ample time to see the 
 imperial departure, and getting out at the landing- 
 place, we had a fine opportunity to inspect the splen- 
 did boats and athletic boatmen. The " Sultan's own" 
 was a majestic-looking kaique, some seventy-five feet 
 in length, painted a snowy white, and ornamented 
 with an abundance of carving both chaste and ele- 
 gant. The Sultan's apartment was upon the after- 
 quarter, under a rich canopy of scarlet broadcloth 
 and velvet, trimmed with golden fringe. His seat 
 was a superb sofa, with richly embroidered cushions. 
 His kaique, and five others nearly as large and mag- 
 nificent, were moved up to the palace gates. "We re- 
 entered our boat, and bid our kaiquejee pull out op- 
 posite the palace, that we might deliberately view the 
 embarkation. The boatmen all ranged themselves 
 with their faces toward the grand gate, and a large 
 band of musicians, with brass instruments, was sta- 
 tioned on the beautiful stone platform. In a few mo- 
 ments a middle-sized, calm, cool and collected-look- 
 ing gentleman came slowly down the wide garden 
 pathway, with a most dignified step. No attendants 
 were visible, save two or three eunuchs, with start- 
 ling black faces, who walked at a good distance in 
 the rear. As soon as the Sultan (for the plain gen- 
 tleman was no less a personage) came opposite to his 
 
320 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 kaique, the band struck up a pleasant and popular 
 national air, the brace of cloudy eunuchs bowed al- 
 most to the ground, and five or six singers in livery 
 shouted with anything but delectable emphasis — 
 " Long live the Sultan !" or something of the sort. 
 
 The six and twenty oarsmen brought their heads 
 nearer to their feet than they are wont to do on ordi- 
 nary occasions, and the Sultan took his seat, and 
 seemed quite as comfortable as though in the grand 
 saloon of an Albany steamer. At the instant the 
 royal kaique started, a Turkish war vessel near by, 
 let her guns off at a rapid rate, and in a minute the 
 great ships up the Golden Horn caught the sound, 
 and the whole harbor was darkened with gunpowder 
 smoke, while the noise was fairly deafening. We 
 urged on after the Sultan (the other five kaiques had 
 been filled by members of his household, pashas, and 
 other attendants, and were in his wake,) and passed 
 right under one of the land batteries, which poured 
 forth its warlike salute directly over our heads ; then 
 the batteries on the Asiatic side took up the echo, 
 and it seemed as though we were in the midst of the 
 final bombardment of Sevastopol. 
 
 The Sultan was but a very short time in reaching 
 the new mosque at Orta-keuy. His boatmen were 
 unusually powerful fellows, and plied their long oars 
 with great vigor and precision. They were dressed 
 
THE SULTAN AT W0KSHIP. 321 
 
 in a tasteful uniform, long trowsers and long shirts, 
 with flowing sleeves, all white and nice and clean. 
 Each one wore a well-regulated moustache, which, as 
 such, was rather graceful than otherwise, and all 
 appeared quite young and handsome. At the prow 
 of the boat, which was elevated and gorgeously- 
 gilded, a man was stationed with a long pole to clear 
 the way, or assist in stopping when desirable ; another 
 stout fellow acted as steersman. At various points 
 along the shore, all the way from the palace to the 
 mosque, (perhaps a mile,) companies of the gray- 
 coated Ottoman troops were drawn up in good order, 
 and at the mosque landing stairs, a guard carefully 
 kept off the intruding subjects. When we reached 
 the place, or the nearest point where we could get 
 our kaiquejee to go, (who seemed to have a profound 
 reverence for the Sultan, so much so, as to be unwill- 
 ing to mention his name in a tone above a whisper,) 
 the illustrious ruler and his train had already entered 
 the mosque. "We forced our w T ay through the guard, 
 and R. had got pretty well into the religious edifice, 
 and I was close at his heels, when a portly pasha 
 chanced to espy us, and ordered his servant to say we 
 could not be admitted. We were in long enough, how- 
 ever, to get an idea of the service, which consisted of 
 of the usual superabundance of bowing, and crying 
 Allah ! Allah ! The Sultan occupied a private box in 
 
 14* 
 
322 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 the gallery ; tlie principal pashas were near him, and 
 the mosque was thronged with devoted worshipers. 
 We spent some time in roving about the mosque yard, 
 and the landing platform, which was spacious and of 
 stone. The military gentlemen offered no opposition 
 to our approach, and that of some half dozen French 
 naval officers, though the masses were ordered to 
 remain at a distance and roughly dealt with. 
 
 As we were straining our eyes to see the Sultan 
 come out in awful pomp, thinking he ought to be 
 through with his prayers, an order was given that the 
 royal kaiques should retire, and as quick as a flash, 
 all but one, the smallest and plainest, were hurried 
 away. The troops were also dismissed, save a few 
 guards. We were disappointed, and began to surmise 
 we were " done for," and that his Majesty had 
 slipped out the back door, or gone off in disguise ; 
 but seeing there was evidently something yet in 
 the wind, we tarried, secured a good post by the 
 remaining Kaique, and kept our eyes very wide open. 
 In a little while there was a marked sensation among 
 the officials ; the boatmen sprang to their feet, and 
 soon the Sultan came out in the same dignified style 
 we had before noticed. He took an easy survey of 
 everything around him as he paced measuredly along, 
 and seemed wholly unaffected by the homage paid 
 him. The aldermanic-looking pashas stood in a row, 
 
THE SULTAN AT WOBSHIP. 323 
 
 and bowed exceedingly low as he passed ; while the 
 guards jerked their heads up and down like top-heavy 
 sun flowers in an autumn gale. 
 
 We could but admire the simplicity of the Sultan's 
 dress ; black trowsers, a black coat, and black cloak, 
 with an ordinary red fez cap — the same as worn by 
 thousands of his subjects. His countenance was 
 rather downcast, and his face somewhat worn with 
 disease and care. IsText to the President of the Uni- 
 ted States, I think him the most unostentatious- 
 looking ruler of any considerable territory I have 
 ever seen. No feather or diamond glittered about his 
 person. How different from my school-boy notions 
 of a Sultan. How changed from the custom of even 
 a quarter of a century since. \ 
 
 As he stepped into the Kaique, a black soldier 
 came rushing up with a petition. The pashas and 
 guard succeeded in arresting him before he reached 
 the imperial presence ; but as the Sultan hoisted his 
 red silk umbrella, and rowed off with his two plainly 
 dressed servants, and dozen oarsmen, I heard him say 
 a few words to one of the guards. It was probably 
 his acceptance of the petition ; as by an old law, the 
 Sultan must never neglect to notice a request made at 
 any place, even from his humblest subject. 
 
 After the Sultan had gone, the pashas' boats were 
 drawn up, and one by one the dignitaries went their 
 
324 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 way. Among the number we saw the Capitan Pasha, 
 or Secretary of the Navy or Admiralty, and Ali 
 Pasha. All the pashas seemed to be in excellent 
 health and spirits. They were dressed somewhat like 
 the Sultan, though nearly all wore diamond stars, or 
 other decorations. They were fat and hearty, and 
 evinced an intimate acquaintance with good living — 
 a familiarity with turtle-soup and champagne, or their 
 Turkish equals. Each pasha had a long retinue of 
 servants, and as he entered his Kaique, two riflemen 
 took seats by him as a body-guard, and the other 
 attendants crowded around him. Long pipes were 
 promptly produced, and the pipers had a fresh supply 
 of tobacco in hand. The pashas appeared very inti- 
 mate with each other, and laughed like ordinary 
 men! 
 
 After all the illustrious officials had decamped, we 
 thought it well to try to get a good view of the 
 mosque, so jerking off our overshoes, we marched in. 
 The building is one of the latest order, having all 
 the modern improvements. Fine marble, and richly 
 variegated composition work, gives the interior an 
 attractive appearance. ISTeat carpets cover the floor. 
 In the gallery we saw the Sultan's seat, and those of 
 the pashas, and also a sitting-room with chairs, sofas, 
 and tables in regular Christian order, with washing 
 rooms, and on the lower floor, at one side, we found a 
 
THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP. 325 
 
 reception and private coffee-room, where the Sultan 
 had just been indulging. The outside of the mosque 
 is very chaste, purely white. The minarets, with 
 gilded points, look exceedingly beautiful at a little 
 distance on a sunny day. 
 
 Again in our own kaique, we ordered our oarsmen 
 to pull to the new palace of the Sultan. At first we 
 were refused admittance, even to the grounds, as the 
 Sultan had adjourned from the mosque to an examin- 
 ation of the building; but impressed with our 
 importance, from our near approach to the royal 
 mosque, our Kaiquejee insisted that we should be 
 allowed to land. We did so, but found that it was 
 against the rules for visitors to enter during the 
 Sultan's presence, and accepted a very polite invita- 
 tion to call some other day. Steering for Top-liana, 
 we soon reached the miserable wharf, and again stood 
 upon terra firma. 
 
 A half-crown, or about sixteen piastres, (fifty cents,) 
 satisfied our faithful kaiquejee, who, to our infinite 
 amazement, never even winked for backsheesh. We 
 allowed him some in our settlement, and hurried 
 home through the mire, the dogs, and the donkeys ; 
 exceedingly well pleased with the morning's results, 
 and quite ready to extol the amiable Abdul Medjid. 
 In the words of his courtiers, " May his virtue in- 
 crease ! May his honor be increased ! 
 
326 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 *■ * 
 
 I have just returned from -a visit to the Sultan's 
 new palace at Beshik Tash, adjacent to Top-hana, and 
 near to Pera ; indeed, it lies between the Bosphorus 
 and the eastern extremity of the latter suburb. It 
 embraces the choicest view of the Seraglio point, the 
 mouth of the Marmora, the Maiden's Tower, Scutari 
 and its peering framework of mountain grandeur : old 
 Olympus, " high and hoary" forming the prominent 
 jewel in the continuous chain. And here with this 
 superb combination of exquisite land and waterscape, 
 Abdul Medjid has chosen the site for a new and 
 gorgeous palace. The most skilful and ingenious 
 artisans have been gathered from, among his own 
 subjects, and those of other sovereigns throughout 
 Europe, and no expense is to be spared to render the 
 construction perfect beyond parallel : far outstripping 
 in the extent of its accommodations and the magni- 
 ficence of its finish, the. most elaborate and costly 
 erections of his illustrious predecessors. 
 
 With a bevy of sprightly friends, among whom 
 were a number of the younger members of the 
 missionary families, I appropriated the better part of 
 this brilliant morning to a careful examination of this 
 imperial structure now in course of rapid completion. 
 Our appearance at the grand gateway, minus any- 
 thing approaching to a pass, or shadow of authority 
 
THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP. 327 
 
 for entering, was the signal for sturdy opposition to 
 our admission upon the part of the guards and 
 attendants generally, but with resolute indifference to 
 all their attempts at hindrance, we urged forward and 
 soon stood unmolested, in the tasteful grounds sur- 
 rounding the building ; a fresh and extremely 
 satisfactory triumph of our national perseverance, 
 and assurance. Several acres of admirably arranged 
 ornamental grounds are attached to the palace, and 
 with the growth of a few years, the grass and shrub- 
 bery must become an elegant addition to the loveliness 
 of the situation, enabling it to rival in its beauties the 
 far famed charms of the old and romantic Seraglio 
 gardens. The front of the palace is parallel with the 
 Bosphorus, and at a distance of not more than one 
 hundred feet from the boundary of its azure tinted 
 waves ; the intermediate space being gracefully 
 decorated with fountains, flower beds, and smooth 
 walks. A wall of granite, massive, and well built, 
 suggestive of the superior masonry of the famous 
 docks of Liverpool, receives the laving of the rolling 
 flood, and nobly confronts its foaming power. Steps 
 extending the entire length of the wall and pier, 
 facilitate the embarkation and landing of the members 
 of the royal household and such other parties as are 
 allowed to touch their kaiques to the hallowed pre- 
 cincts. A tall iron railing, of heavy but beautiful 
 
328 st. patjl's to st. sophia. 
 
 design, and English manufacture, protects tlie gardens 
 from the pier, and from the posts of several capacious 
 gates, gas lamps of rich patterns, shed their brilliant - 
 rays over the bosom of the clear waters, when the 
 better light of day is no longer present. 
 
 The eminent luxury of gas light is as yet known in 
 Constantinople only to the Sultan's establishments, 
 and to but few of these. The contrast of the dazzling 
 flame, as it beams over the Bosphorus, from the 
 palace burners, side by side with that of the flickering 
 olive oil tapers suspended from the gate-ways of the 
 private mansions crowding its banks, is such as to 
 inspire the frank traveler with a deeper admiration 
 for the perfection of artificial illumination as enjoyed 
 in his own land — and to my own mind is strikingly 
 suggestive of the variance between the cheerful 
 radiance of evangelical Christianity, and the gloomful 
 shadowings of Mahommedan superstition. 45 ' 
 
 I was not so fortunate as to secure the precise dimen- 
 sions of the new palace, and from the irregularity of 
 its outlines, it would be dangerous for one unskilled in 
 such matters to attempt their definition merely from 
 casual observation. It will not be improper, how- 
 ever, for me to suggest a comparison, and if I were to 
 say a frontage of twice the extent of that of our City 
 
 * A company is now (1860) about to light the streets of Pera with gas. 
 
THE SULTAN AT WOESHIP. 329 
 
 Hall, (New York) and a proportionate depth, I am 
 persuaded I should not encourage an idea very far 
 from correct. There appears to have been an addi- 
 tional division added to the structure after the main 
 portion had been considerably advanced. The appear- 
 ance of the whole from the Bosphorus, from which it 
 is seen to signal advantage, and much better than from 
 any other point, is that of a long row of distinct build- 
 ings, joined as onr city houses are, but without simil- 
 arity of architecture or dimensions. I was surprised 
 that the architect, whom I heard it stated, was an 
 Englishman of high repute, had not been more careful 
 to secure a symmetrical appearance, particularly for 
 a building of such unusual pretension and magnitude. 
 Internally this elaborate palace is quite unlike any 
 I have elsewhere visited. Of course the eccentricities 
 of oriental life and taste would not allow of its con- 
 formity to those of the Christian world. Here the 
 harem, that lingering relic of barbarism must be pro- 
 vided for, and the accommodations are unexception- 
 able if an outsider may judge. Large rooms and 
 small ones, all with the close shielding blinds, are in 
 course of rapid completion. A large reception hall or 
 banquetting room is a marked feature, and is the first 
 such room, I believe, introduced in any of the Sultan's 
 palaces. But for the proximity of the harem I should 
 think it suggestive of the early imitation of European 
 

 530 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 royalty. In truth I am vandal enough to prophesy 
 that ere a dozen years this finely frescoed hall will 
 have been witness to many a feast and merry-making 
 graced by all the refinement and fashion of Conti- 
 nental and British manners. The intelligent Turks 
 have no thought of eating with their fingers and 
 thumbs in this age of improved cutlery. 
 
 We left the great building by the cellar, a depart- 
 ment not materially different from other cellars, unless 
 in its amplitude : its stout arches and unique pavement 
 of miniature cobble stones, such as we had seen 
 applied to the same purpose at the Seraglio, and in 
 other places, and arranged in tasteful figures looked, 
 at a distance, like delicate mosaic work, and on a 
 closer inspection extremely neat and compact. 
 
 The outward irregularities of the new palace are 
 well matched by the interior confusion. The whole 
 building is little less than a grand maze, and in case 
 of fire the royal occupants might give over all hope 
 of escape. The architect should be advertised as a 
 puzzle maker. Nevertheless the building has many 
 accommodations and conveniences unknown in the 
 older palaces, and is in fair keeping with the steady 
 advance of enlightenment in the East. It will stand 
 a creditable monument to the pardonable ambition of 
 Abdul Medjid, and an ornament to the already richly 
 adorned shores of the Bosphorus, 
 
THE DOGS. 
 
 If in his walks about dilapidated Byzantium, and 
 his study of the now imbecile but once powerful gov- 
 ernment of Islam, the traveler is ready to exclaim 
 Stat nominis umibra, he will be careful to except the 
 dogs from his sweeping declaration, for their presence, 
 or omnipresence, is still a reality more palpable than 
 agreeable to the faithless Frank, and worthy the palmy 
 days of the immortal Mahomet. 
 
 They serve at least one good purpose in their capac- 
 ity as city scavengers, for they clean away the offal 
 like the hyenas at the Cape : does a horse, a camel, 
 or even one of their own number die in the open 
 street or road, the carcase is not left to taint the air, 
 but in a very few hours these ravenous creatures have 
 eaten all the flesh, and left the bones picked to per- 
 fection. They are a fierce race, but will not usually 
 attack you in Constantinople (in the day time) though 
 dangerous to meet in the rural districts, if one has no 
 (331) 
 
332 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 means of defence : but from a stick or stone they will 
 fly, apparently knowing the effect of both by exper- 
 ience. An English tourist, some years since, strayed 
 from Constantinople, and was enjoying his classical 
 stroll exceedingly, when he found his progress sud- 
 denly interrupted by a pack of dogs, all barking at 
 once, and making a dead set at him : he stopped and 
 faced them, then they halted too ; he started and then 
 again the pursuit commenced, until quite exhausted 
 he sank on the ground to rest ; the dogs immediately 
 sat down in a semi-circle before him, left off barking, , 
 and patiently awaited his rising, and then the hunt 
 recommenced until he sat down again, when his 
 canine foes very gravely did the same. Provoking as 
 it was he could not help laughing, as it recalled a sim- 
 ilar circumstance in the Odyssey which he had re- 
 garded as a poetical fiction : however most luckily for 
 him, a shepherd came in sight, who seeing his 
 dilemma, called off the dogs, and told him how dan- 
 gerous they were : indeed as he justly observed, the 
 story of Action, who was devoured by his own dogs, 
 might not be all a fiction. 
 
 Ross Browne, that merriest of eastern pilgrims, 
 provokes us to laughter in his Crusade in the East, 
 by his amusing allusion to the canine population of 
 the city of the Sultan, whose support he avows, and 
 
THE DOGS. 333 
 
 whom lie introduces to his readers with, the following 
 dog-matical defence : 
 
 " The dogs of Constantinople are a legitimate part of 
 the population. Without them it would be no longer 
 Constantinople. They are as much a part of it as the 
 mosques, or the Turks, the Armenians, or the bazaars. 
 Dogs are here protected by public sentiment, or some 
 superstition, or by law ; so they swarm in immense 
 numbers ; they do not belong to anybody, but roam 
 in freedom; enjoying the fullest immunity from 
 molestation. Travelers generally set them down as 
 the great nuisances of the East, and heap unmeasured 
 abuse upon every cur that dares to bark his senti- 
 ments. This is unjust ; they might as well abuse the 
 Turks for wearing beards and worshipping Mahommed, 
 as denounce the poor dogs for showing hostility to- 
 wards Christians." 
 
 This may be so, and had the canine brutes one part- 
 icle of attraction about them the majority of travelers 
 would cheerfully defend them, but of all creatures it 
 has been my lot to encounter, these are by odds the 
 most repulsive. In vain have I searched among them 
 for a generous specimen, for an open-countenanced, 
 free hearted, smiling cur, one to whose acquaintance 
 I might advance with somewhat of confidence and 
 respect, by whom courtesy would be appreciated or 
 at least decently acknowledged. Of a dark yellow, or 
 
334: st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 dingy brown, an indescribably ugly color, with glar- 
 ing gray eyes, a diabolical grin, and ever grating 
 teeth, there is certainly nothing in their personnel to 
 admire, and their habits present no redeeming feature. 
 From the windows of my room upon one of the prin- 
 cipal streets, a loathsome group of the carniverous 
 vagrants is always in full view. Sprawling in every 
 conceivable attitude of indolence, over the filthy sur- 
 face of an open plot of ground, a receptacle for the 
 garbage of the neighborhood, they mingle in great 
 numbers, and with commendable quiet, and harmony, 
 during the day, only now and then growing boister- 
 ous in an attack upon a fresh deposit of fragments 
 from the table of some high living Moslem : but at 
 night every soothing propensity of sleep or repose is 
 effectually banished, as from the going down of the 
 sun to the rising thereof, one incessant uproar rings 
 in my susceptible ears, and wantonly riots upon the 
 hours I would assign to Somnus, without let or hind- 
 rance. 
 
 Now there comes a startling combination of sounds, 
 harsh, thrilling and discordant beyond any that ever 
 ventured to my disturbance, and such as I am irrevo- 
 cably persuaded only Ottoman canine lungs could 
 produce, and beside which the united vocal exertions 
 of a forest of screech owls, or a wilderness of cata- 
 mounts would be "like flute notes in a storm." 
 
THE DOGS. 335 
 
 Tlien after a momentary mumbling of low croaking 
 growls, as destitute of melody as an Italian hurdy- 
 gurdy, louder, ten times louder, as with the oral 
 powers of Stentor, with all respect for that thunder- 
 ing ancient, bursts forth a fresh volley of the demon- 
 iacal yells : a charge is commenced, the victim, a 
 thoughtless cur off his limits, or one of the district 
 temporarily offensive to his guild, is mauled and torn 
 with frightful ferocity, and only makes good his 
 escape from fatal consequences by prompt recourse to 
 his ambulatory powers. Again, a foot passenger of 
 the human community stumbling over the light-less 
 streets, lantern in hand, as the law directs, uninten- 
 tionally arouses the antagonism of the crabbed 
 whelps, and but for his trusty cudgel and athletic 
 arm, his chances for escaping an impression of their 
 sharp ivory upon his corporeal outlines would be far 
 more dubious than desirable. And so the night, every 
 night, wearies away ; fruitful in unmitigated clamor. 
 To sleep through the din is only the privilege of 
 those to whom nature has given the enviable facility 
 of commanding repose amid the most unnatural 
 affinities. 
 
 Major B. whose room is just under mine, though 
 long subject to the nocturnal hubbub of the four 
 legged miscreants, has not yet acquired a total indif- 
 ference to their rioting, and night after night his air 
 
336 
 
 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 gun, skilfully aimed from the uplifted window beside 
 his bed, carries silent and summary destruction to 
 prominent members of the horde, and sends others 
 limping and howling away ; but yet to little purpose, 
 for like crows, scores respond to the death knell of a 
 departed comrade, and no perceptible diminution in 
 the numerical strength of the crew is observable with 
 the return of day-light. 
 
 The mysteries and miseries attending the existence 
 of one of these Byzantian curs, from the opening of 
 his eyes in innocent puppyhood, to the closing of the 
 same in hoary and ill-requited dogdom, would unfold 
 a tragic catalogue of facts, could they be authentically 
 recorded, and set off with the descriptive coloring of 
 a Sue or Dickens, with etchings " from life" in pencil 
 or oil, by Sir Edwin Lanseer. Think of the days of 
 fruitless search for breakfast, dinner and tea, the days 
 even destitute of a consolatory bit of bread and cheese 
 by way of luncheon. Think of the nights, long, black 
 and dreary, passed without even the homely shelter 
 of a damp area, or the lee-side of a stone wall ; and 
 then the 'battles to be fought, those only of defence, 
 necessitated defence, from the unprovoked assaults of 
 cruel and intrusive contemporaries. Reckon the 
 fractured bones, the bleeding feet, the mangled ears 
 and aching craniums. What a sorry picture we may 
 paint without going beyond the ordinary vicissitudes 
 

 THE DOGS. 337 
 
 of the every-day experience of these ill-starred quad- 
 rupeds, for whom the partiality of the Koran appa- 
 rently avails but little. 
 
 But amid all the hardships of their seniors many of 
 the juvenile curs lead lives of surprising jollity. 
 Often by the fences, in the corners and under the 
 piles of refuse matter conglomerated on the vacant 
 lots about Pera, have I watched the youngsters 
 studying their way into active life : commencing to 
 scratch for a competency, and that with laudable 
 ingenuity and perseverance. Already though ac- 
 quainted with terrestrial haps and mishaps for fewer 
 days than they have toes, the little dependents (for 
 parental neglect had abandoned them to their own 
 resources almost at birth), were adroit scavengers 
 and adepts in the invaluable knack of living by 
 their wits. In the clear sunshine of noon-day, lolling 
 lazily on their backs, with heels sky-ward (after more 
 than ordinary success in foraging,) rolling one another 
 over, tumbling here and there in a style truly grand 
 and lofty, and ambling about like petted kids, anxiety 
 seemed to form no part of the nature of these rising 
 members of the generation of Mussulman dogs. 
 (Strikingly in contrast with the demure and sombre 
 existence of their adult brethren was this frivolous 
 conduct. A type of the innocence and sprightliness 
 of youth, and comparative freedom from care having 
 
 15 
 
338 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 its counterpart in beings of a higher intellect and 
 better fortune. 
 
 An hundred thousand dogs are said to be constantly 
 wandering about the streets of Constantinople. It 
 would not be unsafe to reduce this estimate one half, 
 and then the city may boast a greater canine popula- 
 tion than any I wot of. It is related, although I 
 discovered nothing of the kind, that at Pera the dogs 
 look with more favor on the Europeans than at Stam- 
 boul, and that the Turks do not think it strange that 
 there should be a sympathy between the two races 
 u Should you ever find them to incommode you," 
 says a French writer, (M. Charles Emanuel,) " you 
 must cry ' Houst P the Turkish word for away ! " But 
 then," he continues, " you must cry it out a la Turqiie, 
 that is calmly, with dignity, and in a voice issuing 
 from the chest, slightly cavernous. At the first 
 * Houst P so articulated, they will fly." 
 
 A regard for candor compels me to allow that I 
 have not been in a single instance, attacked by any 
 of the numerous gangs by which, by day and night, 
 we are ever surrounded, alike in Pera and Stamboul 
 — and if the virtuous and wise Moslems entertain a 
 kindly feeling for this vast canine population, surely 
 it is not for a giaour, a Christian dog, to complain, 
 however he may differ in sentiment. De gustibus non 
 disputandum ! 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 
 
 The kaiques have been called the omnibusses of 
 Constantinople. They certainly are a favorite, and, 
 owing to the position of the city, most convenient 
 means of conveyance from one district to another. — 
 Thousands of them are constantly plying to and fro 
 upon the Golden Horn and Bosphorus, and the 
 kaiquejees form a distinct and numerous class of the 
 population— the " cabbies" of Constantinople. They 
 make the best bargains they can, and though often 
 noisy and excited, are seldom unmannered. Con- 
 stant practice has given them arms of oak, with mus- 
 cles of iron, and they jump their spicular boats 
 through the water with surprising skill and velocity. 
 The passenger sits on a soft carpet placed immediate- 
 ly on the floor of the kaiquc, and must balance him- 
 self very carefully, or he may capsize the feathery 
 craft. 
 
 The most tempting excursions about the city, and 
 (339) 
 
340 
 
 st. Paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 , 
 
 its environs, may be made in the kaiques. Now the 
 traveler explores the broad Golden Horn to its grace- 
 ful terminus at the " Valley of the sweet waters." — 
 Anon he breasts the Cimmerian waves of the com- 
 mingled Marmora and Euxine, as he crosses to the 
 " silver city" of Scutari, on the Asiatic shore, where 
 beneath the shadow of 
 
 " Olympus high and hoar," 
 
 he may find much to entertain his leisure hours ; — 
 where are the dark cypress groves, and the camel 
 trains have their starting point for interior Turkey in 
 Asia. 
 
 But his most satisfactory excursions will be up the 
 Bosphorus, to Therapia, to Bebek, to Buyukdere, to 
 the Giant's Grave, to Kulalee, to Tcheranagun, the 
 favorite palatial residence of the great Mahmoud, 
 and to other charming places on either banks of the 
 palace-studded Hudson of the Orient, whose rolling 
 seas 
 
 " Lash and lave 
 Europe and Asia." 
 
 After Miss Pardoe, and Theophile Gautier, whom you 
 must have read, to say nothing of an hundred less 
 captivating but capable writers, I will not attempt to 
 daguerreotype the unique and teeming beauties of 
 the Bosphorus. I may say, however, that to my own 
 mind, they have not been over- rated by their most 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 34 L 
 
 enthusiastic admirers, and that the best hour to scan 
 their wondrous magnificence is that just preceding 
 the going down of the sun, when the rich purple 
 clouds clustering in a thousand fantastic and dainty 
 shapes, form a sublime, and fitting peroration to the 
 long, brilliant day. The hum of the busy city falls 
 lightly upon the ear, the glittering minarets sparkle 
 like burnished stars, the vine-robed kiosks reflect the 
 delicate hues of their living drapery, and the rolling 
 seas dance to their own aqueous music and that of 
 the soft South wind. 
 
 At such an hour you may well ask the kaiquejee to 
 rest upon his oars, while in mute ecstacy you drink 
 in the impressive and inspiring fullness of the trans- 
 porting scene. 
 
 Let no one talk loudly of Italian sunsets until he 
 has witnessed one of these gorgeous spectacles in the 
 Orient. The celestial Alps with their crystal crowns, 
 could add little, if aught, to the measure of its spirit- 
 stirring and poetic sublimity. 
 
 And to the lover of sunshine, in all its enlivening 
 fulgency, the mellow and apricious East offers a per- 
 petual treat. Here assuredly (if it be not so else- 
 where,) it would seem 
 
 " No task 
 For suns to shine." 
 
 After twilight little if any business is done in Con- 
 
342 
 
 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 stantinople. Long and wholesome custom renders 
 unnecessary the " early closing movement," and more- 
 over, the character of the streets would make noc- 
 turnal shopping somewhat unsafe. Those who of ne- 
 cessity venture out, go armed with a trusty lantern 
 and cudgel wherewith to grope their w r ay and keep 
 off those who prefer darkness to light for their dubi- 
 ous deeds. Over the face of the Bosphorus ten thou- 
 sand feeble lamps glimmer from either shore, but the 
 quiet everywhere reigning indicates a complete ces- 
 sation of trade and toiL 
 
 "When, as on several occasions, w r e have gone late 
 in the day to visit friends at Hass-Keuy, Bebek and 
 other districts, we have remained all night ; indeed the 
 early barring of the great gates which divide one 
 ward of the city from another, would have prevented 
 our returning, except in case of fire, when at the boom- 
 ing of the signal gun (bells having no favor with the 
 authorities) the gates are thrown wide open and remain 
 so during the night. 
 
 Returning quite late from the American Minister's 
 and other other favorite resorts in Pera, we have al- 
 ways managed to make our way without accident or 
 molestation, but should have found it very difficult to 
 make any progress whatever without our lanterns. 
 The dogs, who in the day time have the good manners 
 to leave a portion of the streets to their superiors, take 
 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 343 
 
 full possession of them at night, and have to be routed 
 up or trod upon at nearly every step. The watchmen 
 shout lustily every few moments, and strike the pave- 
 ment with their great clubs, with a vigor which serves 
 alike to intimidate the rogues and disturb the honest 
 men. R. has more than once threatened to put a 
 summary end to one of these municipal nuisances 
 who makes it a point to batter his cudgel upon the 
 stones near our domicil, during a great portion of 
 
 the night. 
 
 ■* •& * ■& ■& x 
 
 The streets of Stamboul and Pera are alike unsuited 
 for vehicles ; occasionally the clumsy arabas flounder 
 through the widest of them, but in general they are 
 quite impassable. The carriers are men and horses. 
 Of the porters or hamels the most extravagant stories 
 are told. Their broad shoulders do not quake under 
 burdens that would overwhelm an Irishman or negro. 
 It is said they carry with apparent ease, and for long 
 distances, as much as any two laboring men in Eng- 
 land or America. The more bulky goods are carried 
 on large poles supported by the shoulders of two, four, 
 or six men as the case may be. "Woe to the luckless 
 pedestrian who happens in the route of these trains 
 when under full headway. He might almost as well 
 encounted the Eoyal express. Not that the speed is 
 great, but the power with which the stalwart men ad- 
 
344 st. paul's to st. sophia* 
 
 vance is wholly irresistible. Mncli of the confusion 
 of the business streets comes from the piercing shouts 
 of the hamels to those who chance to obstruct their 
 way, and an accidental, much less an intended collis- 
 ion with the nicely balanced load, is a signal for re- 
 sentment as much fiercer than that attending the 
 knocking a chip off a school-boy's shoulder, as the 
 load is larger than the chip. 
 
 Mules and donkeys are perhaps more used as por- 
 ters than horses. They carry wood, building materi- 
 als, and market truck, and are driven by noisy fellows 
 with long w T hips, which they apply with little cessa- 
 tion. "When R. orders a load of wood for his New 
 England stove, it is brought on the backs of perhaps 
 an half dozen donkeys, and long before they near the 
 house we know of their approach by the clatter of 
 their shodden hoofs on the jagged stones. There is a 
 lively time in the unloading, and an amusing elevation 
 of heels, and shaking of long ears when the relieved 
 carriers trot away at a pell-mell rate, closely followed 
 by their ragged and hooting masters. 
 
 A peculiar and convenient custom is that of station- 
 ing saddle-horses for hire at prominent points through- 
 out the city. Like the omnipotent cabs of London, 
 they may be engaged at a moment's notice. The 
 charges are somewhat exorbitant, but the taking price 
 is not out of the way. For twenty piastres (about sev- 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 345 
 
 enty cents) I have liad the undisturbed use of an ani- 
 mal of more than usual carriage and speed, for three 
 full hours, and that to go beyond the city limits, for 
 which liverymen usually exact an increased charge. 
 
 Near the " Grand Champs des Mort" in Pera, is 
 the equine station which receives our chief patron- 
 age. Here for a distance of a quarter of a mile or 
 more, upon the unusually broad and pleasant road- 
 way, may always be seen a group of animated Greek, 
 Turkish, and Armenian men and. lads, leading their 
 sleek animals up and down, and keeping a sharp look- 
 out for customers. At the approach of a Frank they 
 clamorously extol the merits of their respective beasts, 
 while the prancing cattle so literally hem you in on 
 every side, that a speedy choice must be made to 
 escape their clustering feet. The attendants, who in 
 most cases are not the owners of the horses, usually 
 make it a point to accompanj^ you on foot, running 
 close behind with whip in hand, and apparently never 
 tiring; but we have made it a rule to decline their 
 attendance. The horses are often very handsome, fat, 
 glossy and agile to a remarkable degree for hacks. 
 They pick their way through the irregular pavement 
 and steep acclivities of the streets with great dex- 
 terity. Long custom has given them the sure feet of 
 mountain ponies. Their trappings are for the most 
 part shabby enough, and the saddles uncomfortably 
 
 15* 
 
346 
 
 ST. PAUL S TO ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 hard. Nevertheless, we have greatly enjoyed our 
 rides both in and out of the city, and of one of the 
 latter made a few days since, I venture to give you a 
 somewhat detailed account, as it took lis over much 
 interesting ground : 
 
 The day was as mild and balmy as though it were 
 midsummer, and the ever-brilliant sun gave us the 
 smile of his brightest Oriental face. What an almoner 
 of good-cheer is the sun. A Persian visiting Great 
 Britain was taunted by a native of that Island, be- 
 cause some of his countrymen worshipped the sun. 
 " So would Englishmen," w T as his reply, " if they 
 could see him." Assuredly, the influence of sunshine 
 is productive of joy wherever it penetrates. 
 
 Winding our way through the circuitous and 
 crowded streets of Pera, we soon came out into the 
 broad fields behind the great French hospital. For 
 perhaps a mile, there was a way bearing a slight 
 semblance to a road, but afterward we were com- 
 pelled to force a passage through ravines and gullies 
 bold enough to have startled an Indian hunter. The 
 face of the extended country — for we soon cleared 
 the suburban houses — presented a naked treeless 
 appearance. Hill followed valley in close proximity, 
 and the whole landscape forcibly reminded us of 
 many points in the highland districts of Perthshire 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 347 
 
 and Aberdeenshire, in the East of Scotland, though 
 the hills were never at all lofty. We did not see a 
 single ferme ornee^ and in only one or two instances 
 could discover any signs of cultivation. The plough 
 and the spade seem almost unknown, even so near 
 this great metropolis. "We met a drove of sheep, and 
 another of cattle. The animals were in good condi- 
 tion — healthy, and decently fat. They probably 
 came from some fertile district in the interior, and 
 were better than much of the f/ live stock sent to the 
 Constantinople markets, where it is usually hard to 
 secure a good piece of beef or mutton. 
 
 Having remarkably sure-footed and fast horses, we 
 were not long in reaching the little village situated 
 at the head of the Valley of the Sweet Waters of 
 Europe. A long, grassy plain, extends from it for 
 several miles, on either side of the " Waters," which 
 are a narrow continuation of the famous Golden 
 Horn. Handsome shade trees add to the picturesque 
 beauty of the locality, which in spring and summer is 
 the chief place of resort for the Turkish, Armenian 
 and Frank ladies of Constantinople. Here the fair 
 maidens come to enjoy the pure and refreshing air of 
 the open country, and here gossip has its greatest 
 exchange. Here the merits of the city beaux are 
 coolly discussed ; and here many a flirtation is as 
 coolly practiced. The Sultan is often in the merry 
 
848 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 throng; and during tlie later hours of Friday, the 
 Mohammedan Sabbath, after all the religious forms 
 have met attention, the number of visitors is truly enor- 
 mous and Felicitas would seem to reign triumphant. 
 Thus you see the hypocritical Parisian fashion, of 
 devoting the morning of the Sabbath to worship, 
 and the afternoon to recreation and deviltry of every 
 sort, has gained favor even among the inhabitants of 
 the staid city of the prophet. 
 
 The Sultan has two summer palaces or kiosks, in 
 the Valley of the Sweet Waters, (or, more properly, 
 of " Fresh waters," which Dr. D wight tells me is the 
 correct interpretation of the Turkish name, and there 
 is nothing particularly sweet in the waters.) They 
 are of wood, in the Turkish style, ornamental and 
 spacious, with the usual araneous windows. One was 
 built by Sultan Mahmoud, and is seldom inhabited, 
 and never repaired, so that it now presents a some- 
 what dilapidated appearance. It is said that Mah- 
 moud, having built this charming nest for a favorite 
 odalisque, refused again to visit it, after an early 
 death had taken her from him. 
 
 At the large gateway leading to the grounds 
 immediately connected with this palace, we asked an 
 aged Turk if we might drive in and have a look at 
 things. "It is forbidden," said he, with the sang 
 froid of a thorough-bred Mussulman ; but as he 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 34:9 
 
 offered no serious opposition, we entered, and took a 
 careful survey, finding nothing, however, sufficient to 
 pay for our trouble. A small, but pretty, artificial 
 water-fall, constructed from the stream, was the only 
 feature worthy of note, and that seemed meagre 
 enough after the artificial wonders of Chatsworth. 
 
 The roads all around the royal kiosks are of the 
 meanest order, if, indeed, they may be said to be of 
 any order at all. The Sultan generally goes to and 
 from his metropolitan residence in his elegant 
 kaiques, and probably thinks little, and cares much 
 less, for the convenience of those who go on horse or 
 in carriages. 
 
 Near to where the waters open into the broad 
 Golden Horn, on their way to the Bosphorus and its 
 connected seas, we saw extensive buildings erected 
 for the manufactory of " tiles," such as are used for 
 roofing many of the Constantinople houses. They are 
 of red clay, brick color, and closely resemble those 
 in use in the States. Turning a little way into the 
 country, in order to cross the waters by the upper 
 bridge, we met several long trains of camels, on their 
 way to the distant inland towns. ~No sight seems to 
 me more purely Oriental than this. I well remember 
 when I saw it for the first time, on my arrival at 
 Smyrna, how all my juvenile fancies of the East 
 came rushing into mind. These animals are natural 
 
350 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 to the East, and to the East only, and are wholly in 
 Eastern service, though for years there has been a 
 movement towards their introduction into our great 
 Western prairies. 45 " They go rolling along at an easy 
 and dignified pace, as though they had no care, no 
 want, no regard for anybody or anything. A demure 
 little donkey is at the head of each train, with the 
 driver upon his back. Strange customers these 
 drivers, but always content as they fife some oriental 
 ditty, or draw on their venerable pipes, and ever and 
 anon give Mr. Donkey a dexterous poke in the ribs, 
 for donkeys here as everywhere need such persuasive 
 arguments. 
 
 Once upon the elevated land at the head of the 
 Golden Horn, we secured a superb view of the great 
 city, and its countless suburbs ; of the beautiful 
 Bosphorus ; of the rolling sea of Marmora, and in the 
 dim distance, the foaming, ever-restless waves of the 
 turbulent Euxine; while the high hills behind 
 Scutari, and all along the Asiatic coast, loomed up 
 in all their encrimsoned grandeur. Constantinople 
 looks remarkably well a little way off. "lis essentially 
 true, that 
 
 " Distance lends enchantment to the view." 
 
 The evergreen cypress groves that shade the vast 
 
 * I think the dromedary preferable to the camel. It is a more hearty animal, 
 and can stand almost anything, as I have witnessed in the Crimea. 
 
 . 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 351 
 
 burial grounds throughout tlie city, give it a rural 
 aspect, quite unlike that of auy other city I have 
 seen ; and the unnatural absence of large mercantile 
 establishments, and huge factories with their sky- 
 pointing chimneys, does much to increase the distinc- 
 tion. 
 
 It cannot be denied that the Golden Horn makes 
 one of the best harbors in the world. I may compare 
 it to the East River, if you can suppose that that 
 great stream came to a quiet termination somewhere 
 in the vicinity of the ]STovelty Works. Where the 
 " Horn" first branches off from the junction of the 
 Marmora and the Bosphorus, seamen complain that 
 the water is altogether too deep for safe or ready 
 anchorage ; but when you come near to the first 
 bridge, beyond which merchant vessels seldom go, it 
 is in every way suited to port use. War ships pass 
 up above the second bridge, to the navy yard, which 
 is admirably located. The width of the Golden Horn 
 averages about a quarter of a mile from beach to 
 beach. As there are no docks, the vessels all anchor 
 pell-mell in the stream, and the sight of the mingled 
 spars from our point of observation was enough to 
 delight the heart even of an amateur sailor. 
 
 We soon struck an old road. The large flat stones 
 proved very troublesome to our ponies, and we could 
 not urge them into anything like a decent pace, for 
 
352 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 the many irregularities of the ancient pavement. It 
 was the old highway to Adrianople, and by it, for a 
 mile or more, we passed through great fields of the 
 dead — acres of tomb-stones, many of them showing 
 the marks of time's abuse. At last we reached the 
 city walls at the Adrianople gate. Having carefully 
 examined this, we entered the broad and rudely 
 paved road, following immediately along the outside 
 of the walls. It extends for nearly a league between 
 the mass of ruins, and a great cemetery. The walls 
 are sadly mutilated and destroyed : they were origin- 
 ally three in number, and flanked with tall square 
 towers, but scarcely a tower remains in sufficient 
 perfection to afford an idea of its former grandeur. 
 The walls appear to have been composed of stone and 
 brick, carelessly combined, and were probably very 
 strong. Even now it would be difficult to overturn 
 them. 
 
 An intelligent continental writer (Gautier,) has well 
 t described their present condition : 
 
 " These are the walls of Constantine, at least ; such 
 as has been left of them, after time, sieges and earth- 
 quakes have done their worst upon them. In their 
 masses of brick and stone, are still visible breaches 
 made by the catapults and battering-rams, or by that 
 gigantic culverin, that mastadon of artillery, which 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 353 
 
 was served by seven hundred cannoniers, and threw 
 balls of marble of nearly half a ton in weight. 
 
 "Here and there, a gigantic crevice severs a tower 
 from top to bottom ; farther on, a mass of wall has fal- 
 len into the moat : but where masonry is wanting, the 
 elements have supplied earth and seed ; a shrub has 
 supplied the place of a missing battlement, and grown 
 into a tree ; the thousand tendrils of parasitical plants 
 sustain the stone which otherwise would have fallen ; 
 the roots of trees, after acting as wedges to introduce 
 themselves between the joints of the stones, have 
 become chains to confine them ; and the line of wall 
 is still (to the eye) continued without interruption — 
 raising against the clear sky its battered profile, and 
 displaying its curtains and bastions, draped with ivy, 
 and gilded by time, with tints by turns mellow and 
 serene. 
 
 "As you pass along the outer road it is difficult to 
 realize, that a living city lies behind the defunct ram- 
 parts. It would be easier to believe one's self near 
 some of those cities of the Arabian legends, all the 
 inhabitants of which had been by some magical pro- 
 cess, turned into stone. Only a few minarets rear 
 their heads above the immense circuit of ruins, to tes- 
 tify that there is life within, and that the capital of 
 Islam still exists." 
 
 The conqueror of Constantine XIII., if he could 
 
354 st. paul's to st. sobhia. 
 
 a 
 
 
 return to the world, could make again, with striking 
 appropriateness, his celebrated quotation from the 
 Persian : — 
 
 " ' The spider shall weave her web in the palace of 
 emperors, and the owl cry by night from the towers 
 of Ephrasaib.' " 
 
 "We rode a number of miles on the antiquated road, 
 and finally arrived at the shore of the dashing Mar- 
 mora, but found no gate, and had to return to the 
 last or Narli-Kapur, or pomegranate gate, in order to 
 enter the city. Immediately on the right we came 
 upon the " Seven Towers," or rather the spot where 
 the " Seven Towers" used to be : — 
 
 " He saw with his own eyes the moon was round, 
 
 Was also certain that the earth was square, 
 Because he had journeyed fifty miles, and found 
 
 No sign that it was circular anywhere. 
 His empire also was without a hound ; 
 
 'Tis true, a little troubled here and there, 
 By rebel pashas and encroaching giaours ; 
 
 But they never came to the Seven Towers " 
 
 Three of the towers have disappeared, and the 
 whole building or inclosure which appears to be con- 
 nected with the old walls, is in a ruinous state. The 
 towers were formerly very high and secure, they were 
 used as prisons. One is now a powder magazine. 
 "We were at first refused admission, but evincing a 
 determination to go in at all hazards, the guards loiter- 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 355 
 
 ing about the doors in goodly numbers, gave way 
 without delay, but with evident reluctance. It is said 
 to be against orders to admit visitors, without a fir- 
 man, or some official authority. Creeping up the 
 dilapidated stairway, to the top of one of the towers, 
 we secured a capital survey of the city and surround- 
 ing country. Our promise of backsheesh had produced 
 a favorable impression on the part of the two Turkish 
 military gentlemen, who officiated as guides, (one of 
 them was about as black as ebony,) and they lost no 
 opportunity to carefully point out and describe every 
 famous locality within our gaze. Several old cannon 
 were lying about the top of the walls. They seemed 
 as much used up as the Ottoman government at the 
 present day — perhaps a trifle more so. 
 
 Descending, we found that the gates and doors, 
 excepting one very small one, had all been closed, 
 and that a swarthy sentinel was stationed at the main 
 entrance. We were not prevented from passing out, 
 and our backsheesh seemed to give much satisfaction 
 to all hands, although the grim sentinel looked as 
 though he would not let in another party of " Christian 
 dogs" on any consideration. 
 
 Again on our faithful horses, we plunged into the 
 narrow city streets, aud commenced a rapid transit 
 through the Greek quarter. The streets were even 
 more contemptible than those of Pera. The houses 
 
356 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 gloomy and closely jammed : the projecting windows 
 almost coming together over our heads. The pave- 
 ment unusually rough ; the mud deep and dangerous ; 
 the dogs numerous and vicious. We rode for a long, 
 long distance, without meeting anything whatever, to 
 relieve the tedious monotony, save now and then an 
 eloquent girlish eye peeping from those coquettish 
 overhanging windows; and there was a degree of 
 modesty, and innocence in the " sly glance," we 
 could but admire. Most of the dark-eyed Grecian 
 witches were knitting or weaving, with much ap- 
 parent industry. 
 
 Passing the Greek quarter, we came to where the 
 Turks and Armenians congregate. The streets wore 
 a commercial air, shop followed shop, and stall 
 crowded stall. Our iron shod animals fairly made 
 the welkin ring with their sharp clatter on the hard 
 stones ; while the dogs of every degree, even the low- 
 est, came yelling after us. 
 
 We passed under the venerable aqueduct of Bosjo- 
 han-Kemeri. A double row of forty gothic arches 
 remains in condition, and puts to blush much of the 
 masonry of to-day. 
 
 Crossing the Golden Horn by the second or middle 
 bridge — a well built modern structure — and passing 
 through the road over the little burial ground back 
 of the main street of Pera, we came to the high walls 
 
THE ENVIRONS. 357 
 
 around the new British Palace, and soon after to our 
 own appreciated home, where we delivered our ser- 
 viceable horses to their waiting owners, and sat down 
 to a sumptuous repast at our friend Yan L.'s hospitable 
 table, which we relished no less than a jovial recapit- 
 ulation of our animated adventures. 
 
ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 It has been aptly said, " the stranger, as he views 
 the glittering minarets and innumerable domes that 
 rise above the streets of Stamboul must forget for 
 awhile that this was once the patriarchal throne of 
 John Chrysostom : he is not prepared at the first 
 sight of Constantinople to recognize the city which 
 contended with Rome for ecclesiastical dominion." 
 
 If Rome has her seven papal basilicas, Constanti- 
 nople has her seven imperial mosques, which with 
 their satellites engross the whole atmosphere of 
 external religion, and while I am as loth to take part 
 in the hackneyed chaunt about " mosques and mina- 
 rets," as was the matter of fact author of " Eothen" 
 you would account it very strange were I to pass 
 these remarkable structures in utter silence. They 
 are a prominent feature in every Mohammedan city 
 and the chief pride of Islam. In architecture they 
 have the facility of external showiness and interior 
 (358) 
 
ST. SOPHIA. 359 
 
 simplicity, but usually neither will stand a very 
 critical examination. 
 
 I have already referred to one of the latest built, 
 in speaking of the Sultan at his devotions, but it was 
 by no means worthy to compare with those of 
 Stamboul. 
 
 The chief of the imperial mosques, originally a 
 Christian temple, and dedicated to the Divine Wisdom, 
 " Agia Sophia," (as personified by the Greeks, and, 
 according to their teaching, mother of the three 
 theological virtues,) attracts the traveler's early 
 inspection. It was converted into a mosque the very 
 day on which Mohammed II. took possession of 
 Constantinople and its magnificent crescent, gilded, it 
 is said, with fifty thousand gold pieces, and mounted 
 upon the dome by the successor of the Caliphs, can 
 be seen dazzling in the sunbeams an hundred miles 
 at sea. It is only within a few years that St. Sophia 
 has been accessible to the Frank without an imperial 
 firman, the obtaining of which involved a very 
 considerable outlay of patience and piasters. Now, 
 however, the sacred temple may be entered as readily 
 as St. Paul's or St. Peter's, the only expense being 
 the reasonable backsheesh with which the keepers are 
 content. 
 
 The position of St. Sophia is unfortunate as is that 
 of nine-tenths of the superb ecclesiastic edifices of the 
 
360 st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 old world. Instead of a great open space all about 
 the ponderous pile, it is literally crowded and 
 obscured by a world of shops and petty bazaars, 
 which ever attract to the neighborhood a swarm of 
 chattering buyers and idlers whose confusion is at 
 times intolerable. There are also groups of pilgrim 
 merchants ever lingering in the vicinity, venerable 
 men with huge green turbans and flowing beards, 
 who expose for sale "all descriptions of chaplets, 
 perfumes, relics from Mecca, charms against the Evil 
 eye, amber and ivory mouthpieces for the chibouque, 
 and dyes, and toys for the harem," 
 
 Passing all these, with a deaf ear to their impor- 
 tunities, and the graceful fountain where the faithful 
 perform their vodu, a necessary preliminary to prayer, 
 (Mahomet says, the practice of religion is found in 
 cleanliness, and that it is the key of prayer,) we 
 enter the mosque, not however without the jealous 
 glance of the pious Moslems ever lolling about the 
 grand doorway. Nor can it be accounted at all strange 
 that these devout disciples of the prophet and the 
 Koran should be thus apprehensive of our entry into 
 their " holy of holies." The cool irreverence of the 
 Western giaour, and his obvious contempt for the 
 traditions and customs of the Moslem religion, give 
 abundant reason for a suspicion of his every move- 
 ment. But we are offered no insult, having duly left 
 
ST. SOPHIA. 361 
 
 our shoes in the broad vestibule — an Eastern practice, 
 to neglect which would be alike ill-mannered and 
 hazardous. 
 
 Judged by the richly furnished churches of France 
 and Italy, St. Sophia is well calculated to disappoint 
 the visitor at first sight. Islamism has little partiality 
 for the pictorial and plastic arts. Nevertheless the 
 structure is amazingly grand, and upon careful 
 inspection impresses the beholder with its gigantic 
 proportions* and its lofty columns of jasper, porphyry 
 and verd antique. The majestic dome is unques- 
 tionably one of the finest in the world, and must 
 have shone " like a sun of gold and mosaic" before 
 its splendors were despoiled by the Moslems. 
 
 Many costly carpets cover the floor, all apparently 
 awry, but this is that they may be in the proper 
 direction toward Mecca, as St. Sophia was not origin- 
 ally intended for a mosque, and is wanting in that 
 particular. 
 
 Manuscript and richly ornamented copies of the 
 Koran are disposed about the mosque carefully 
 supported on wooden tressels. As you are aware the 
 Koran is held in the greatest possible respect among 
 the Mohammedans. They never touch it without 
 being first washed or legally purified ; and lest they 
 
 * About 25,000 persons can stand within the building. 
 
362 st. paijl's to st. sophia. 
 
 should inadvertently do so, they put an inscription on 
 it, " Let none touch it but those who are clean." 
 
 From the dome, cords to which are suspended tufts 
 of silk and ostrich eggs, sustain lamps wherewith the 
 vast edifice is occasionally illumined. Green disks 
 presented by the several Sultans, and bearing selec- 
 tions from the Koran, ornament or disfigure the walls 
 according to one's taste. 
 
 About the only lona-fide curiosity shown the visitor 
 is a small piece of rusty carpet, said to be one of the 
 four carpets on which Mahomet knelt to perform his 
 devotions. It is unnecessary to say that this modest 
 relic is valued beyond all price by the Turks. 
 
 Strange as it may appear, the side chapels of the 
 building, which are not used for purposes of worship, 
 are stored with trunks, and goods of all kinds, for, 
 the mosques serve as store-houses, and those who are 
 going away on a journey, or who fear being robbed 
 at home, deposit their wealth under the immediate 
 protection of Allah ; and Gautier is responsible for 
 the statement, that there has never been an instance 
 of the loss of a farthing under such circumstances. 
 
 At the hour of our visit a venerable priest was 
 preaching from one of the slightly elevated pulpits. 
 Before him on the floor sat a score of devout hearers, 
 including several women. What was the precise 
 tenor of Ins discourse we were unable to learn. As 
 
ST. SOPHIA. 363 
 
 m 
 
 in the Eoman churches there is a constant going and 
 coming of worshippers, and here and there all over 
 the carpets (for there are no seats,) pious Moslems are 
 to be seen with their faces Mecca-ward offering their 
 humble prayers. There is no wandering of the eye, 
 no turning of the head, to indicate any abstraction of 
 the thought, but an intense and profound devotion. 
 Nor is the duty of prayer confined to the mosques. 
 Throughout the empire at various places beside the 
 highways, are square enclosures of stone, called Nas- 
 nasgirk, with ground inside, as high as the top of the 
 walls; annexed to them are fountains for ablution, 
 and here daily prayers are offered by passengers. 
 "When there are none such, the kebla, or direction to 
 Mecca, is pointed out by a table which every Mussul- 
 man carries about him. A small carpet is spread, 
 and the person, turning his face to the Holy City, 
 prostrates himself with his forehead touching the 
 ground, occasionally rising on his knees, and again 
 laying his face to the ground, during his prayer. 
 "When done he folds up his carpet and proceeds on 
 his way.* 
 
 Of course in this legendary and superstitious land a 
 structure so venerable, historic and eminent as St. 
 Sophia, must be the centre of many strange and thrill- 
 
 * Dr. Walsh's Constantinople. 
 
¥ 
 
 364: st. paul's to st. sophia. 
 
 ing traditions. Of these I will only repeat one of the 
 most current. Thus it is told. "When the doors of 
 the ancient Christian temple were forced by the bar- 
 barous hordes of the Sultan, there was a priest at the 
 altar engaged in saying mass. At the noise made by 
 the hoofs of the Tartar horses upon the marble pave- 
 ment and the shouts of the Moslem soldiery, the priest 
 interrupted in the holy sacrifice, took up the sacred 
 vases, and proceeded with slow and solemn step 
 toward one of the lateral naves. The soldiers, brand- 
 ishing their cimeters, attempted to reach him, when 
 he suddenly disappeared in the wall which opened to 
 receive him. They believed at first that he had 
 escaped by a secret passage, but the masonry was 
 solid, compact, and impenetrable. Sometimes it is 
 said the listening ear will catch the murmur of vague 
 psalmodies within the wall. It is the priest still liv- 
 ing, like Barbarossa in the cavern of Kiefhausen, and 
 muttering in his sleep the interrupted liturgy. When 
 St. Sophia shall be restored to the Christians, the wall 
 will open and the priest, leaving his retreat will again 
 appear at the altar to finish the mass begun more than 
 four hundred years ago. 
 
 105S