4 o ... . /^W.v \^/ /^', -,^^^^ , °' / ..„ 'v. '•-• /,.,. '^- MARY POLK BRANCH. Nee Mary Jones Polk, Tennessee. MEMOIRS OF A SOUTHERN WOMAN " WITHIN THE LINES" AND A GENEALOGICAL RECORD By Mary Polk Branch THE JOSEPH G. BRANCH PUBLISHING CO. Publishers, Chicago Copyright, 1912, Joseph G. Branch. £CU3200 5 4 u FOREWORD. THIS little book is written for my children and the descendants of those whose lives are herein chronicled. From its perusal may they learn still more to reverence the memory of their forefathers, and to prize the heritage left by them of noble and honorable lives. To this record I have added my memories of the home of my youth, under Southern skies. Then later the experiences of a Southern woman during the Civil War, ^'within the lines.'' This long retrospect of mine, a retrospect of eighty years, portrays faithfully life in the South as it was in ante-bellum times, and afterward in her mourning vestments, the beautiful, heroic South. I write with a loving hand as I pay this trib- ute to the past. IMary Polk Branch. December, 1911. MEMOIRS OF A SOUTHERN WOMAN CHAPTER I. IN ANTE-BELLUM DAYS. ]\Iy father, Dr. Wm. Julius Polk, was married to my mother, Mary Rebecca Long, at Mt. Gal- lant, Halifax County, North Carolina, in 1814. ]\It. Gallant was an estate, inherited by my mother, from her grandfather, Gen. Allen Jones. In 1828 they moved from North Carolina to Columbia, Tennessee, where five brothers had already preceded my father — making their homes on plantations near the town. My father was a devoted member of the Episcopal church, and noted for the purity and integrity of his character — his word being considered ' ' as good as his bond." He Avas elected again and again president of the First Bank, in Columbia, and for years trus- tee of the old St. Peter's church. My mother was an able assistant in all good works, and the blameless lives of this old couple were marked by deeds of neigh])orly kindness, charity and hospitality, for which the South was so noted in ante-bellum days. Their nearest neighbor was Bishop Otey, who lived on an adjoining place, called Ravencroft, and as both he and my father had a keen sense of humor, many a good joke had they at the expense of the other. My mother and the bishop, both fine chess players, usually ended the evening- with a hotly contested game of chess — the victor triumphant and the vanquished insisting- that the battle should be renewed at a later day. My mother was a woman of beauty and unus- ual courage. She needed it as she said farewell to her three soldier sons, and bade them do their duty. But she had higher attributes than cour- age—the charity which thinketh no evil, the love which includes the sinning and the sinless, recognizing the stumbling blocks that beset our path. All beautiful things appealed to lier. flow- ers and poetry. She often recited verses that she had learned in her youth. She seemed to me to be a link connecting us to a far-off period, bind- ing the present to the past. The rare courtesy of her manner, which told of her gentle breeding, combined with a slight formality, which, while very kindly, precluded any familiarity. As I have looked at her lovely old face I have thought her the embodiment of all the virtues of her race. In her ninetieth year she joined the great cara- van, and now, with the husband of her youth, as much of her as coulcj die awaits tlie resurrec- tion, at St. John's cemetery. My fatlier first rented the house owned by his cousin, tlien Governor of Tennessee, James K. Polk, afterwards President of the United States. Then he bought a home, whicli I owned later, at present the property of ]Mrs. Towler. At this house, at the dinner table, was first proposed the buikling of tlu- Columbia Female Institute. Pres- ent upon this occasion was Bishop Otey and my uncle, Leonidas Polk, who was afterwards bishop of Louisiana. The building- was partly finished in 1836, and I was carried there by my nurse to be entered as a scholar. Preparatory to the coming' of the Rev. F. G. Smith, who was first principal, his assistant teacher taught the school in a room back of the old St. Peter's church. The church was the second house at the corner of Garden street next to the old Masonic hall. The lady whose portrait is at the Institute was Mrs. Shaw, of Philadel- phia; her daughter, a beautiful young woman, taught music. She was engaged to be married to the Rev. Mr. Odenheimer, then pastor of St. Peter's church on Second street, in Philadelphia; afterwards he became Bishop Odenheimer, of New Jersey. An event of those early days was a reception on the Institute grounds to President Andrew Jackson. He w^as on his way to visit his niece, Mrs. Lucias Polk, at "Hamilton Place," accom- panied by Paulding, the novelist. I do not know why he should have selected Paulding as a com- panion, as Paulding was not a politician. On the important occasion two little girls were chosen to present bouquets to the distinguished visitors. Accordingly, little Kittie Puryear, and I, in our best white frocks, and w^ith our hair curled, pre- sented them. One bouquet was given to General Jackson, mine to Paulding, who sent me a little poem in response. This was, I think, in 1840. Two years later my cousin, Sarah Jackson Polk, and I were sent to a French school in New York — Madame Cauda 's — and afterwards to a 10 seho(>l in Philadelphia. 'Phis cousin, who niarriod my mother's nephew, l\ol>in ap C. .lones. was one of the kn-eliest eharaeters 1 have ever known, and the dearest friend of my life. AVe went to Nash- ville on our way to l*hiladelphia. in «>nr rarriaiics, dininii' at Cartri^ht's. near Spriniihill : stayed all ni^ht at a plaee a mile from Fi'anklin. and next morninii' proceeded to Nashville, a ilistanee of forty miles whieh now takes three hours ti) travel. There we took passaije on a small stern- wheel boat — there was no stateroom, and we slept in a lar^e ladies' eabin witli berths piled one above another. Our party was eomposed of my unele. Lueias Polk, his dauahter imy eousin Sarah ^. ^liss Dorothy Dix and myself. ^liss Dix. the noteil philanthropist. Iiad known my unele in Nashville, where he oeeupied some publie position, in the leg:islature, I think. Her visit to Nashville was to petition the legislature to build an asylum for the insane. She had vis- ited every State for that purpose, traveling: alone, yet, she said, had never met with the sliiihtest discourtesy. She was from Boston, and had been en*:aired to be married, and her lover became insane. She visited him. found him in a eell with a rock tloor; not a eomfort ; treated as thouirh he were a criminal." She then bejran the erusade to which slie devoted her life, and throuiih her instrumentality asylums were built in many eities where before the insane had been contined in jails. I think throuiili her efforts the asylum in Nashville was founded. This was about 1847. She was charmiuii in appearance, and her 1 11 sweet voice had a soothinjr effeet upon maniacs. She often sanjf to them. In Philaflelphia we were irjvit^d to the homes of many of her friends, and introduced to some f'f^Jebrities through her kindness, among others, Doctor Hare, and I had the pleasure of dancing with Weir Mitchell at his father's house. After the return of my cousin and myself to Tennessee our lives were like most Southern girls of that period. Wealthy Southerners usually r('s\(\('(\ r)n their plantations, and visited friends in their carriages, many miles apart, staying two or three days. Some of these carriages were very liarjdsome, and drawn by four horses, as were lliose of my uncles. George and Andrmv. The Old Southern Mammy. In the "quarters," as the negro cabins were called, tlu-re was usually a band, which played at night for the "white folks" to dance. "Old Master" always led off in the "Virginia Reel." Negroes are always fond of music, and as they would play "Jim Crack Corn, I Don't Care." or "Run, Nigger Run," or "The Patrolers AVill Catch You," or some other especial favorite, they would become wildly excited and beat the tam- bourines over their heads. Our nurses we always called "]\Iamiiiy."" and it was not considered good manners to address any old negro man or woman otherwise than as "uncle" or "aunt," adding the name whatever that might be — the surname was always the master's. We were taught to treat them with respect. There was such a kindly feeling on both sides between the owners and their slaves — inherited kindly feelings. How could it be otherwise? Many were descendants of those who had served in the same family for generations — for instance, the nurse who nursed my children was the daughter of my nurse, and her grandmother had nursed my mother. My maid, Virginia (I can not recall the time when she was not my maid) was a very handsome young mulatto to whom I was especially attached. When she was married in her white dress and long veil flowing to her feet, the ceremony was performed in our back parlor, and Bishop Otey, the first bishop of Tennessee, officiated. How great the pride the negroes felt in the wealth and importance of their owners, and interest indeed in all of their affairs, amusingly so, sometimes ! I recall an old woman, coal black, a red bandanna handkerchief tied over her kinky locks, and great dignity of manner, she said to me : ' ' Young missis should marry her cousin, ]\Iarse Tom, and keep our family likeness in our family. ' ' Our Social Life. Indeed, ours was a gay and free-from-care life. I can recall delightful summers at Old Point Comfort, and the Greenbrier White, in Vir- ginia — winters in which I journeyed from my father's plantation, near Helena, Arkansas, to New Orleans. There were palatial boats on the ^Mississippi river then, for there was no other way to reach 13 New Orleans. At each landing-, often at night, lighted by the pine torches on the bank, the roustabouts would roll aboard the heavy bales of cotton, singing as they crossed the gangway their gay negro songs, often throwing piles of wood into the roaring furnace as they raced with some other boat, which they were trying to pass, amid shouts of triumph, or cries of defiance for the rival firemen. At their nearest landing, planters would come aboard with their wives and daughters to do their annual shopping in the "city," and the big boat would plow its way doAvn the broad river with gay passengers laughing, dancing, singing, and many a love tale, told upon the guards until it rounded at the dock of delightful New Orleans — the city of camelias, cape jas- mines and violets. But sailing down the broad jNIississippi was not always an unalloj^ed pleasure, sometimes there were terrible experiences. I recall how my bright and beautiful cousin, ]\Iary Brown Polk, and I started from Nashville on "The America," for New Orleans. After an evening of dancing and cards, we retired to our staterooms. It was quite late, and most of the passengers, including our chaperones, had already sought their berths. All at once there was a cry of "Fire!" and looking out we saw a man dashing down the cabin, while the carpet rose beneath his feet from the gusts of March wind, while he cried to the sleeping passengers : ' ' Fire ! ' ' Hand in hand, my cousin and I ran to the 14 deck. Around us women were shrieking wildly, in every stage of undress. Men were getting from their trunks money and valuables, for the boat seemed doomed. The angry river, lashed by the wind, bore upon its troubled surface bales of burning cot- ton, which burst as they were thrown into the water, and floated otf like little boats afire, lighting the dark and threatening river. The pilot Avas ordered to land, threatened and im- plored, but he was obdurate. He kept the boat to the middle of the stream. He said: "The river has overflowed its banks from the heavy rains, and the boat would l)e burned before we could reach the landing." He turned the boat so the Avind swept through the deck, carrying the flames far from the guards, which were cov- ered with wet ])lankets, so to the strong winds we owed our salvation. When the morning came, lovely and calm, as if to compensate for the terrors of the night, we floated on our way to New (Orleans, the beautiful metropolis of the South. At Greenville, ^Mississippi, a large party came on board, of young planters paying their an- imal visit to their commission merchants, or with their sisters and sweethearts, going to en- joy the gaieties of the city. Formerly all families of any prominence in the South knew of each other, so we soon formed one party, and they added nnich to our enjoy- ment. 15 Some Famous Beauties. Patti was then on her first visit to New Or- leans. She w^as very young, and accompanied by her sister, Amalia Patti, whose husband, Strakosch, played their accompaniments for them. I remember how she pouted at some little thing that did not please her. The most beautiful assemblage of women I have ever seen I then saw. There was Madame Yznaga ; I had known her as a schoolmate as Ellen Clement. Her husband was a Cuban planter, and she owned plantations on the Yazoo River, which -had taken her South. Her sym- pathies were strongly Southern, and I heard of her playing the banjo and singing Dixie songs when abroad during the war. She was the mother of the Duchess of IManchester, and grand- mother of the young Duke, who married Miss Zimmerman, of Cincinnati. Among the beauties was IMiss Sallie Ward, of Louisville, wdth the soft warm coloring and blue eyes which Kentuckians often inherit from their y i rgini a ancestry. Then the Tennesseans, a very ditferent type, with clearly cut, regular features, brunettes, and slight, graceful forms, brilliant eyes, but not v\'ith the languor which characterized the Creoles. AVhile admiring them, a gentleman said: ''No one here compares with Madame Bienvenu, ' ' and looking where I was directed I certainly saw a beautiful woman. I w^as told she was sixty, ])ut it was beyond belief, although upon her shapely head were piled puffs of sno^\y hair. 16 Her large, velvety eyes had a lovely expression, her creamy-white skin with but little color, but her lips were crimson. Her neck and arms showed to advantage in the black velvet gown by contrast, and a single white camelia she wore as a bouquet de corsage. I admired her en- thusiastically. The next summer I went to the "Greenbrier White," in Virginia, with my uncle, Andrew Polk, his wife and daughter, then a child, Antoinette Polk, afterward the Baronne de Charette. There could not have been a more delightful place. Brilliant belles from all over the South — gay cavaliers, chivak*ic and cour- teous. I recall my saying: ''There is nothing more I wish for on earth ; I am perfectly happy." CHAPTER II. It was on the morning of November 29, 1859, that Col. Joseph Branch and I were married at "Buena Vista," my father's, afterwards my, home, at Columbia, Tennessee. Colonel Branch was finely educated, benevolent and honorable, and I may be excused for saying, handsome, though I have now no photograph of him. Every advantage had been given him by liis uncle, Governor Branch, of Florida, liis guardian, who was Secretary of the Navy under Jackson. First he was sent to Chapel Hill, North Carolina ; afterwards to Princeton, where he graduated as valedictorian, about 1835, in a w^arm contest be- tween a Northern and Southern champion. His 17 brother Laurence was salutatorian, afterwards Congressman for many years from North Caro- lina, and in the war brigadier-general, lie was killed at Sharpsburg. The two brothers, after their matriculation, went to their uncle's home, "Live Oak," in Tallahassee, and practiced law together. Colonel Branch was very successful; a mem- ber of the legislature at twenty-one, and presi- dent of a bank, when he married his first wife, Annie Pillow Martin, amiable and vivacious. She died five years after her marriage, leaving two sons, George Martin and Henry. Colonel Branch then left Florida and formed a partnership with his father-in-law, and their plantations were in the name of Martin and Branch. There were two plantations, seven miles long-, in Desha and Arkansas Counties, Arkan- sas — the Davis and Dayton plantations. The Davis half-way encircled the lake, reflecting the white cabins and green trees of the "quarters" in the water. It was laid out in regular rows of houses with streets between, two hospitals — one for the men, one for the women — a nursery for the children, and two old women to take charge of them. In approaching the place there Avas first a cotton field of one thousand acres, level as the floor, and at regular intervals sheds with light- ning-rods attached in case of storms, and at each shed a cistern. A field of cotton would be one day white, the next day the blooms changing to pink, and presenting a beautiful appearance. Upon these plantations were four hundred 18 slaves before mine came,