Class _ Book __ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT ^/ '-;»' ■ ■'^'^•■^■'^■- ^^^^^^^-^^'-^^.ffSi^^ rj^B^m^f^^^mm si>i Glimpses of Lake Champlain Chas. H. Possons, Publisher and Printer (%> Glens FaUs, N. Y. ^ Copyrighted 1896 -K , AUG ?li 1896 M^ 1 1 '• srv^^ .C^^ 6 Oh fake 6hamplain For more than one hundred years after the discovery of the American continent by Christopher Cohimbiis in 1492 the beautiful Cliamplain valley lay hidden from the civilized people of the earth. In the year 1603 Samuel de Champlain, a nobleman of France, visited several places in America, and returned to his country filled with the burning zeal of an explorer. In 1608 the French court fitted out a fleet and placed it under his command. He arrived at Quebec in the earh- part of July, where he remained until the following spring. Learning from the Indians, the Algonquins, who inhabited the ter- ritory north of tlie St. Lawrence, that there was a large body of water in the south, between them and a powerful tribe of Indians, the Iroquois, who were their enemies, he resolved to explore it. He set out for this purpose April 10, 1609, and on the morning of the 4th of July entered the lake to which he afterwards gave his own name. The lake was known among the aboriginal Indians as Pe-Tonbonqne, or " the Waters which Lie Between," viz.: between them and the Iroquois. The Iroquois themselves called it Caniaderi-Giianinie ^ that is, the " Lake that is the Gate of the Country." Lake Champlain lies between the States of New York and Vermont, more than half being within the limits of the latter State. From Whitehall to Fort Montgomer}', according to U. S. coast surve)', the distance is 107 ys miles ; its greatest width, across from the mouth of Ausable River, 12% miles ; its mean width is about 4.14 miles, and its greatest depth — at a point i 7q miles southeast of Essex Landing — 399 feet. Measuring down into Missisquoi Bay, on the east side, extending into Canada and separated from the outlet by Alburgh Tongue, the extreme length of the lake is about 118 miles. Its elevation above tide is 93 feet. At the time of French occupancy the southern end of Lake Champlain was designated at Fort St. Frederic, the waters below that point being considered Wood Creek. Previous to the settlement of the country by the Europeans Lake Champlain had long been the thoroughfare between hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the scene of many a mortal con- flict ; and after the settlement it continued the same in reference to the French and English colonies, and subsequently in reference to the English in Canada and the United States. In consequence of this peculiarit>- of its location the name Lake Champlain stands connected with some of the most interesting events in the annals of our country ; and the transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga, and Crown Point, and Plattsburgh, and many other places, united with the variety and beauty of the scenery, the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, render a tour through this lake one of the most interesting and agreeable to the enlightened traveler. The shores of Lake Champlain are indented by numerous bays, most of which are small. Missis- quoi bay is the largest and belongs principally to \"erniont, extending some distance into Canada. There are several islands in the lake, the principal ones being South Hero, North Hero, Isle la Motte and Val- cour. South Hero, also called Grand Isle, is thirteen miles long, and is divided into two townships. North Hero is about eleven miles long, but is very narrow, and constitutes a township of the same name. Isle la i\Iotte constitutes a township b^■ the same name. No part of the United States is more interesting from its historic incidents than Lake Champlain. Every bay and island of the lake, and nearly every foot of its shores, has been the scene of some warlike movement — the midnight foray of the predatory savages, the bloody scont of frontier settlers, the rendez- vous of armed bands, or the conflict of contending armies. These stirring incidents extend in tradition far beyond the first discovery of. the lake, and brought down by scattered and uriconnected history in an almost uninterrupted series of strifes and contentions to the close of the war of 1812. The territory now distinguished by the general designation of the Valley of Lake Champlain was, for nearly a century, a debatable ground between the powers of France and England. Claimed by each under arbitrary charter, or imaginary title, overrun and subverted in turn by both, and permanently occu- pied by neither, it derived from the presence of their armies little amelioration of its primitive savage aspect. As early as 1730 the French conceived the idea of founding a great political power on the shores of the lake, the capitol of which should be at Crown Point. Here they built a fort called Fort St. Frederic, and laid the foundation of an extensive settlement. Twenty-five years later, in 1755, a fort was built at Ticonderoga. Ticonderoga was called Carillon^ a French word meaning chime, the name being given with reference to the perpetual music of the falls. The idea was suggested by the Indian name Cheonderoga , which in the Iroquois tongue signifies " Sound- ing Water. gteamcrs on %n\\c (^bainplain... e e tf To Lake Champlain is credited the origin of the steamboat. Robert Fulton obtained his first idea of the Clermont while stopping on the lake, and one year after the memorial trial trip of this steam- boat, or in iSoS, Burlington parties built a steamboat, which was launched the following year. The Champlain Transportation Company, which operates the regular passenger steamers on this lake, is the oldest steamboat company in the United vStates. It was chartered in 1826. The Vermont, of this line, runs between Fort Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh. It is 226 feet long, 36-foot beam, 9-foot hold, and has a capacity of 11 25 tons. The boat has fifty-six staterooms. The Chateaugay runs between Westport, N. Y. , and North Hero, Vt. The Chateaugay is a steel boat, 203 feet long, 30-foot beam and 9-foot hold. steamers ot dbamplam ttransportation Co. IRuins ot.. port ITiconbcvotja e e e The remains of Fort Ticonderoga are situated on a peninsula, elevated about a hundred feet above the lake, a position of consider- able importance, being protected on three sides by water. On the west is Mount Defiance, nearly 800 feet high. Between it and the fort the outlet of Lake George joins Lake Champlain. To the south- east is Mount Independence. The first attempt to fortify the posi- tion was made by the English in 1691. In 1755 the French began building the present fort. The earthworks were constructed between the lakes. A stone fort, star-shaped, was built on the east side and called Vaudrille. In 1759 the works spread over a large part of the peninsula. Baron Dieskau's troops stopped at Ticonderoga when thev were marching to attack the English, in 1755, and also when the^• returned, broken and defeated. From here Montcalm marched to the attack of Fort William Henry in 1757. Here Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, and suffered a loss of nearly 2000 in killed and wounded. In 1759 Amherst, with an army of 12000, intrenched be- fore the lines, when Montcalm evacuated the place and fled to Can- ada. Amherst repaired and enlarged the works on a scale of great magnificence. IRuins ot ffort CiconCicroga In 1762 peace was ratified by the cession of Canada to Great Britain, and Lake Champlain was no longer the portal between hostile nations. Fort Ticonderoga fell into bad repair, and when the Revolution broke out was garrisoned by but fifty men. At daybreak on the morning of May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and captured by 83 " Green Mountain Boys," under command of Ethan Al- len, " in the name of the Great Jeho- Sontb from ffort ^iconc>crofla ^,^^^ ^^^^ ^1^^ Continental Congress." By the capture of Ticonderoga the American colonies secured what cost the British government eight millions of pounds sterling. The American forces held Ticonderoga until July, 1777, when Bur- goyne came sweeping from the north. The Revolutionary war closed, Fort Ticonderoga fell into decay. It is now a heap of mouldering and picturesque ruins, where the historian ,ind the antiquarian love to linger, dwelling in thought upon the olden time. Many localities and objects can still be easily identified. ^. CRom''PofNrncHf^"'PORT Henry Oh THE BROAD Lake :^'^^ The Crown Point of history is a nat- ural peninsula, formed by Bulwagga Bay, a broad estuary on the west, and by the lake on the east, which here abruptly changes its course at nearly right angles, and from which a wide expanse at the north is compressed in- to a narrow channel scarcely a fourth of a mile wide. There is a stone light- house on the point, but otherwise it is abandoned to its ancient remains. On the east side of the lake is Chimney Point. The visitor at once perceives Crown iPotnt IRuins that this position commands the entire navigation of the lake. The French project was to establish a new Canadian province, extending from the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, with Crown Point as its capital, and here, in 1731, Louis XV caused Fort St. Frederic to be erected. It consisted of a wall of limestone enclosing stone barracks, a church, and tall bomb-proof tower. The French also fortified Chimney Point. Amherst fortified Crown Point about 1760 at a cost of f 10, 000, 000. The ruins of the forts still attest their former strength. The mounds of Fort St. Frederic are easily perceptible, although fallen and dilapidated. The fort erected b}- Amherst is better preserved. The form of the vast quadrangular bar- racks which enclosed the esplanade may still be distinguished, although partially demolished or removed by unappreciative farmers for building material. Two of the barracks remain in partial preservation, one one hi; ndred and ninety-two feet, and the other two hundred and sixteen feet in length. The ramparts were about twenty-five feet thick and nearly the same in height, of solid masonr}-. The curtains varied in length from fifty-two to one hundred yards, and the whole circuit, measuring along the ramparts, and in- cluding the bastions, was eight himdred and fifty-three yards, a trifle less than half a mile. A broad ditch cut out of the solid limestone surrounded it. The fragments taken from the excavation were used to con- struct the reveting and four rows of barracks erected therein. On the north was a gate, and from the northeastern bastion was a covered way leading to the lake. Within the bastion was the garrison well, eight feet in diameter and ninety feet deep. The community established by France at Crown Point numbered some 1500 inhabitants. A large tract of land was cleared and occupied, and many evidences of their presence still exist. A street may be traced, extending a long distance from the point towards the mainland, raised and covered with broken stones. The ruins of cellars line this street on each side, and there are indications that along the margin of the bay the ground has been graded and formed into an artificial slope. Fragments of stone walls, en- closing gardens and orchards, are visible. Flagstone walks, smooth and worn, remain. The ruins of a cemetery are also to be seen. ( of... ,Ouvlinoton Burlington is the largest town on Lake Champlain, the metrop- olis of Vermont, and the capital of Chittenden County. It has a population of 20,000, and is a progressive, wide-awake town. The '7T'K/> (Ttf V) physical features of Burlington are striking. The hill upon which it is situated rises gradually back from the lake front until its highest point is reached, a mile from the shore. Upon the highest point — College Hill — is situated the University of A^ermont. From the north- ern part of the shore a narrow neck of land extends into the lake, «^ fe^ «^ terminating in Appletree Point, south of which, extending to Rock Point, is Appletree Ba}-. South of Rock Point, and extending to Red Rocks Point, is the broad, crescent-shaped Burlington Bay, with its long stretch of silvery-white sand beach and extensive wharfage. About a mile from Red Rocks Point is Shelburne Point, with the entrance to Shelburne Bay between them. This bay ex- tends for several miles. Lake Champlain is ten miles wide at Bur- lington. The outlook across the broad lake is pronounced by trav- elers to be the finest lake view in America, and it is generally com- pared to Naples. Attractive as the scene may be to the casual ob- ser\-er, he misses the great charm to residents who see its changes. P5*^ ^'^^%f^U0MGTdM With mountains behind and mountains in front, and one of the most picturesque lakes at its feet, Burlington stands indeed in imperial beauty. To the north and south stretches the beautiful Champlain Valley. On the west lie the waters of historic Champlain, with beautiful islands nestling here and there, and white sails flitting across its surface. Across the lake the Adirondacks raise their lofty crests, while to the east the view extends Burlington from TRci> IRocfts ^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ Mountains. The University of Vermont and State Agricultural College is the pride of Burlington. The college grounds embrace fifty acres. The main building was re-constructed in 1884. In front is a statue of Gen. Lafayette, who laid the corner stone of south college in 1825. North of the main building is the Science Build- ing, and north of that is Billings Library, built in the Romanesque style of architecture. A fine dormitory is to the east of the main building. The Medical Depart- ment is at the north of College Park. Its amphitheatre seats 350. The larger amphitheatre of Mary Fletcher Hospital is also used for clinical lectures. There are commodious Mechanical Buildings, also. TRcO 1Rock6, Xoohinct Soutb The Department of Agriculture has an experiment farm of 104 acres and has all appliances for the inves- tigations conducted. The college museum is rich in minerals, rocks, birds, mammals and fossils found in the State. IRocft IPoint Afan 1Rc86 ® • • If^ouse The Van Ness is the largest hotel in Vermont. It is opposite the Public Square, and near-by all the public buildings. Being high above the lake, its rooms afford a fine view of matchless Cham- plain, Shelburne Bay, the islands, and the towering Adirondac^s to west, while to the east are the fertile fields of Vermont, Mansfield, Camel's Hump, and the various peaks of the Green Mountain chain. The Van Ness has broad double piazzas, and an observatory and promenade upon the roof. Burlington being the point at which tourists cross routes be- tween the White Mountains, the Adirondack Mountains and Sara- toga, it is a natural point for a tarry aside from the attractions of the place, and the citv is always filled with tourists during the summer months. 'ovt... Fort Ethan Allen, a U. S. cavalry post, is about four miles to the north of Burlington. The reservation covers about 700 acres. Near the reservation is the permanent camp-ground of the Vermont "jCfKc*** Wrr^tl militia. The fort and camp-ground are connected with Burlington e b}- trolley road. Fort Ethan Allen accommodates four troop of cav- * airy, and is planned for eight troop. The buildings include barracks, stables, officers' quarters, hospital, bakery, and store house. There are complete systems of water- works and sewage systems. Fine roads extend over the reservation. Nearly 300 men and officers and 250 horses and mules are stationed here. There has been expended on the reservation over a third of a million dollars. A visit to the fort is interesting, particularly at drill time. v^N 'prcniblcau Trembleau Hall is in the picturesque village of Port Kent, nearly opposite the city of Burlington. From its broad verandas one can obtain a magnificent combination of mountain and lake scenery. Across the lake is the lofty peak of Mansfield, flanked by mountains that extend as far as the eye can reach. Looking^south a charming view of real Adirondack beauty lies before the eye — a IFDHH mountain sloping down to the water's edge. The central location of Trembleau Hall affords e\ery facility for taking excursions to different points of interest and returning the same day. The various roads afford many fine drives to places of interest — to Ansable Chasm, Poke-o' -Moonshine pass, etc. Port Kent is one of the gateways to the Adirondacks, via Wil- mington Notch, and formerly was an important port on the lake. Relics of its greatness still exist in large storehouses. The hamlet is quite attractis'e and has many quaint features. ttremblcau Iball, iport Ikent IPostoftice— ausablc Cbasni ©ranD fflume from above— Susablc Cbasm Tlusable. Chasm This remarkable natural wonder is three miles from Port Kent, and is formed by the Ausable River in its impetuous course from the Adirondack Mountains to Lake Chaniplain. The river has carved a channel in the Potsdam sandstone formation, in some places reaching a depth of 200 feet, leaving precipices of every shape towering above the dark water. At one place the river is compressed to a breadth of only ten feet, and again widens to fifty. The waters dash madly through their confined channels, and are precipitated over falls and cascades of from sixty to eighty feet in height, struggling, foaming, tearing and whirling over their rocky bed, as though bent on being freed from the thraldom of the gigantic cliffs. The length of the chasm proper is about two miles, and its sides and tops are fringed with cedars which cast a sombre shadow over it and add to its mys- terious grandeur. There are side or lateral gorges which greatly add to its interest, and the boat-ride through its marvelous flume is without its equal. Thousands of tourists pronounce their visit to the chasm as being the most enjoyable and gratifying of their sum- mer experience. "Hip from Znbie TRoch, ausable Cbasm IRunning tbc IRapi&s, ausable Gbasm H otel Bluff Point, nearly 200 feet high, puts out from the mainland nearly opposite the north end of \'alcour. The Point is crowned by the magnificent Hotel Champlain, which, with its auxilliar}- build- ings, and the embellishment of the grounds, recpired the expenditure (TbaniDlHin °^ ^ half-mimon dollars. A park of 265 acres surrounds the hotel, much of which is wooded. Bluff Point is one of the most charming sites in the country. Magnificent views are to be had from all parts of the hotel, while from the central tower nearly a thousand square miles of valley, lake and mountain are within range of the eye. Ibotel Cbaniplain ^atboltc The Catholic Summer School of America owns a magnificent estate of 450 acres, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, adjoining Bluff Point, which is the steamboat landing. It is about three miles from Plattsburgh, and a trolley road makes that place easy of access. The Catholic Summer School Building and Improvement company is engaged in developing this property. A casino and several cot- tages have been erected and plans are made for the erection of several hundred more cottages. The Summer School has a several weeks' session every year, beginning in July, and attracts people from all parts of the country. The grounds have been laid out in an attractive manner by means of winding roads and the preservation of stately forest groves and natural elevations. A deep and narrow ravine traverses about one-third of the property, running almost west and east, and carrying a crystal brook in its bed. Casino aiiD ©rounOs of Catbolic Summer Scbool pouquet UDouse Paul Smith's Foiiquet House has long been a prominent institu- tion of its kind, and familiarly known for scores of years to the trav- eling community. It is close by and overlooking the railroad depot, and but a short distance from the steamboat landing. It is an im- posing structure, capable of accommodating 150 guests. The *■ grounds and flower garden afford a most agreeable retreat. There ^ are broad piazzas on two sides of the house, and these, with a prom- enade upon the roof, afford a fine view of the lake, the battle-ground and the scene of the naval engagement, the U. S. barracks, the vil- lage, the Green Mountains of Vermont, and the Adirondacks. The Fouquet furnishes delightful accommodations for a residence during the summer months. ^ piattsbuvGb ^ anO ■m. S. Barracl^s Plattsburgh is a wide-awake village of 9000 inhabitants, the shire-town of Clinton County. It is built on both sides of the Saranac River, at its mouth. The one great event in the war of 1812 was the Battle of Plattsburgh. On Sunday morning in September, 1814, Commodore MacDonongh, commanding the American fleet, and Gen. Macomb, commanding the land forces, embracing 3000 men, three ships and ten gunboats, whipped the British, with a land force of 14,000, four ships and twelve gunboats. The British sustained a loss of their fleet, 2500 men and a large amount of stores and ammu- nition. The Americans lost less than 150. The remains of the forts, built to resist the attack of the British, are interesting, and fre- quently visited by tourists. The British commander. Commodore Downic, and several officers of the contending forces rest in Platts- burgh cemetery, and the men who fell were buried on Crab Island. About a mile south of Plattsburgh is the extensive barracks be- longing to the U. S. government. Troops have been stationed at Plattsburgh since 1846. The post embraces a score of buildings, in a large tract of land that is traversed by fine roads. At present a force of infantry is stationed here. t "i'rtt^*' "J^KTSSV' :ii?C-».A,- ircnrrrrtT trrt-rf ■""''m-r'rm'. jjT. i?^j^-ir« 1^ n^ .jsM^ laniteO States armg iPost, plattsburgb \