PUBLISHED BY The Outdoor Enterprise Publishing Co. KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI Price Fifty Cents &■>■ T THE BOOK THAT TEACHES Coined Rabbitology The reader actually learns HOW to ''coin" money in the raising and care of rabbits, as set forth in this book of all books for the rabbit breeder. FANCY — and — COMMERCIAL FOREWORD ^$ N O apology is made for the addition of this book to those already published in the interest of the Rabbit Fancy and Utility. It not only marks an epoch of progress — but is full of information of the WHAT to do — and HOW to do it — to map the progress of the future and to secure both the rabbit and the dollar. Breadth of view — sobriety of judgment — critical insight — con- sequent findings — and personal experiences — form the basis of the details given in a clear understandable manner manifesting the sterling qualities that pervade every page of this book. The instruc- tions and other writings, not only bear evidence of wide reading, but are conclusive enough to show that each contributor has given his BEST because of his practical and intimate knowledge in rais- ing rabbits and securing the dollars. They are the men who KNOW. There are, of course, quite a number of other books published for the rabbit fancier — all have their good quality points of teach- ing and instruction — B U T — in Rabbits & Dollars you have the fundamentals of a successful enterprise handled by more than one man and in more than one place. Here you get the fancy and com- mercial sides explained in such excellent and comprehensive man- ner as to give added stimulus to the present breeder and fancier — while the prospect is bound to grasp the principles pertaining to a successful business that he will not hesitate to enter upon if he has any love for animals at all. In the preparation of this work for the press, we have been assisted by Chas. S. Gibson, America's foremost Rabbit Authority and Judge; Edward H. Sta.nl, the Editor of Outdoor Enterprises and one of the pioneers of the rabbit industry in this country; James Bunt, the Managing Editor of Outdoor Enterprises; C. J. Coffman, late of Wheatridge, Colo., a noted fancier and man of business judgment, and system that pays; W. S. Preshaw of Ripon, Cal., the fancier who has originated the new breed of White New Zealand. We are glad to make this public acknowledgment of such worthy assistance, which makes Rabbits & Dollars all the more valuable to its readers because it is a compilation of ways and means to business success in rabbit raising from the actual experi- ences of men who have solved the HOW and give publicity to their success in the pages of this book. THE OUTDOOR ENTERPRISE PUBLISHING CO. Kansas City, Mo. December, 1920 Copyrighted 1920 By the OUTDOOR ENTERPRISE PUBLISHING CO. Kansas City, Mo. ©CU605234 J4N -3 , 92 , CONTENTS PART 1. Page THE BEGINNING— Successful Housing of Rabbits 7 Feeds and Feeding 11 Buying Stock 13 THE DIFFERENT BREEDS OF RABBITS— Rufus Red Belgian Hare 14 Breeding Belgian Hares •• 16 Flemish Giant , 19 New Zealand Red 22 Care of the New Zealand • • 23 FANCY BREEDS— By Chas. S. Gibson. Champagne D'Argent 24 American Blue • • 24 Himalayan '. 25 Angora • • ....•• 27 Dutch 27 Blue and Tans — Black and Tans • 29 English Spotted 30 Havana. - . . 31 Japanese 32 Silver Gray, Fawn and Brown 32 Silver Brown • • . . 33 American Checkered Giants 33 Lop Eared — English and French 35 Black Siberian 36 White New Zealand, by W. S. Preshaw 36 Blue Flemish Giant 38 White Flemish Giant ...-■... • • 39 GENERAL REMARKS ON RABBIT CULTURE 41 PART 2. THE COMMERCIAL SIDE 42 Dressing a Rabbit. . . 44 Wrapping the Meat . . • • 45 Rabbitry Management and Efficient Business Methods 46 Advertising 47 Stationery • • 48 Handling Inquiries and Answers 49 Carriers and Shipping Crates 50 Repeat Orders 51 Filing Records 52 Hutch Cards • • . . 52 Pedigrees 53 Cost " and Profit Records 55 Bookkeeping System for a Rabbitry 55 Storekeeping • • • • 55 PART 3. Diseases of Rabbits 57-63 GENERAL PRECAUTIONS • 63 ILLUSTRATIONS \ Page The Single Hutch Idea, No. 1 8 Hutch No. 2 9 Rufus Red Belgian Hare 15 Nest Box Showing Lid Construction 18 Light Steel Gray Flemish Doe • • • 20 New Zealand Buck 23 American Blue Rabbit . . • • 25 The Himalayan Rabbit 26 The Angora Rabbit 27 Dutch Doe 28 Black and Tan .« 29 White New Zealand Rabbit 37 White Flemish Giant Buck 40 Showing Method of Killing a Rabbit 43 PART 1 The Beginning SUCCESSFUL HOUSING OF RABBITS Some Facts and General Principles It Is Necessary to Observe THE desire to do something toward a successful issue means de- cided effort in the choice we have made. The effectiveness of an enterprise is largely to be judged from what one learns concern- ing his object in view and applying his services accordingly. In connection with the raising of rabbits, one of the most im- portant things to be considered is the selection of a place which is in every way suitable and where the quality of the stock can be maintained from generation to generation. This is progress and a sure means to success. One may enter upon the rabbit business with but little fore- thought as to the place where the stock is to be housed, but the enthusiasm of the enterprise will not last very long, because a wrong start has been made. There is just one way to succeed, and that is to do a thing in a right and proper manner. Such is the object of this book to instruct along those lines, which if followed by the enterprising party, will establish him in a very pleasant and profit- able business, the possibilities of which are absolutely unlimited. Of course, it is to be admitted, that so far as inside and outdooi hutches are concerned, there must be taken into consideration the essential factor of climatic conditions. It is almost impossible to state determinedly what class of housing is suitable in a universal way; still, the suggestions here offered will give to those embarking upon rabbit raising some ideas to work upon, and they will then have to size up the local climatic conditions and build consistently. The outside hutch is generally advocated, provided sufficient detail has been given in the construction of the housing quarters that they can be made secure from damp or draught, so necessarily to be avoided. Care taken in this wise will certainly avoid the in- vasion of sickness among the stock. Good, clean, healthy outdoor accommodation and the right stock selected in the very beginning will spur the breeder on to enthusiasm by which he can make noth ing but success. Now that the reader has been given to understand the necessity of correct housing, the following suggestions are offered by which he may go ahead and construct the rabbit quarters. RABBITS AND DOLLARS **-**& \V\vV \ 1 T, 1 m ss\ // N 1 /' ' ®L i 11*1 II P""!* ' P^* ' n'^l/j i >Hi /// i 1 ' 'Sri // i / 1 1 i/L rU>J LoJ. •- ' I'l/l/F ' / '/III ' / 'i/ir * / ' / /// » / '/ /// » / // /// ' O '/ '/ ill' • J \ 7 #/' ///• i/ '/'/// ll J'lll rj/L. J "v 111 ~" • lL /' // o ' ' ( \ HI ''If HOIH J r , •• • M HOIH lOOd T ill/ m , « • • * ♦ lJ a {•) v^ : :_::~ - :: z : " :_~: - ::: ._ _ i • • _ : :::: h u. t/\ *) * r— u. :::::::::: M-\ • > f.) ::t: :± ♦.31 - ^ iX^Tr^----.^ :!::::::::: ,_3j- 3*5i¥CCr»^r\ \ i: : ::: > L ._._ _ ! «< • MI-IB *^^^^^ % H o Q l-H $ w o Q o H n £ «H « o W <: i-J CO 1— 1 3 Xfl W Eh RABBITS AND DOLLARS Drawing No. 1 shows a hutch suitable for doe with litter; for -young stock as well as for single bucks. It can be seen that this style of hutch can be made very cheaply, inasmuch as common boards can be used of a good sized box for the shelter, feed and nest room, with short pieces of lumber and wire- to make the outside run. The plan as shown has ample room for a nest box, feed room and shelter which can be built to suit your fancy. However, it is advisable to have the nest box on the back side of the room, the feed crocks on the front side of the room, with the water and grain cups on the floor. The plan shows the height, length and width of the hutch. It is not necessary, however, to build exactly to meas- urements given; you can construct the size of the house you have figured upon, proportionately. Another idea in housing construction. HUTCH No. 2 A VERY FINE SELF-CLEANING HUTCH This hutch was built along the lines of drawing No. 1 but some- what larger and doubly accommodating. A number of these hutches have been in use on one of the largest rabbit farms in the country and have proven in every way to be successful. Many styles of hutches have been tried on this farm, and while a number have given satisfaction, still the one as per plan No. 2 has been the most satisfactory, stock raised in them being absolutely healthy and finely developed. The experience has been that when rabbits have not done as well as might be expected in other kinds of hutches, that by placing the animals in this particular hutch, marked 10 RABBITS AND DOLL ARS improvement has come about. Seemingly, the house is generally sat- isfactory, as stock raised in them are but seldom found to have cold or any other disease, and it was as "snuffle" proof as any hutch we know of. Hutch No. 2 is somewhat different to No. 1 in the following re- spects: First: It is a double hutch, with the feed racks so placed that both sides can be fed at once. Besides, another improvement is shown, that is, the underfloor space, which gives the stock a chance to live on the cool ground in hot weather. Then again, the outside runs have slatted floors, thus making the hutch practically self- cleaning. It is easily moved about which makes it an ideal hutch for the city breeder who may have to move into another house. By adopting the portable hutch, the breeder can take practically all of his rabbitry with him, whereas this could not be done in the use of stationary hutches. This is an important point for the city breeder to bear in mind. Many a rabbit raiser has had to quit the business not because it was not paying him, but it became necessary for him to move his quarters, and he could not take his rabbitry with him. You will therefore readily understand the advisability of the portable hutch for the city breeder. Generally speaking, outdoor hutches are adopted by most breed- ers. However, bear well in mind that the stock must be guarded against stormy weather and provision must be made accordingly. The hutches described are for outside use, and in the construction, therefore, consideration has been given for protection against severe weather. It will be well to also bear in mind that in case the sun shines directly upon the rabbits, it is necessary to offset this to some ex- tent by seeing that the shading is used, which will somewhat reduce the effectiveness of the sun's rays. Rabbits love to bask in the sun- shine, especially during the winter and early summer; still, it must be understood that they must be guarded against the intensity of heat, for this not only has a tendency to fade the fur, but is likely to dull the luster on the back which most of the rabbits possess. Wherever possible, all hutches should be placed facing south. Building large expensive places to raise rabbits is really a sheer waste of money, and it is usually difficult to afford the proper ven- tilation and health points generally, whereas, by use of the hous- ing according to the plans given, you are assured of giving that ac- commodation so necessary to the maintenance of healthy stock rais- ing all the time. RABBITS AND DOLLARS ll The three great enemies of rabbits are drafts, dampness and dogs. These points were considered in the planning of these hutches, and if built according to instructions given, are proof against these enemies. The nest boxes should be built in, or boxes can be used and re- moved when necessary, thus giving that extra space when there are no young requiring a nest. The boxes should be about sixteen inches long, twelve inches wide and ten inches deep. They should be made with a one-piece lid and an entrance cut at one of the ends. In making this hole, be sure and get it fairly close to the top, of course, giving plenty of room for the mother rabbit to get in and out, but it is necessary to make the entrance rather high, so as to pre- vent the young ones leaving their nest too soon. (See nest box pic- ture, page 18). Remember! the right kind of stock and proper housing with earnest personal attention will mean sure success. The hutches described are ideal in all climates and for all parts of the country. The reason that we do not- describe any other style of hutch is that after experimenting with many others it was found that these hutches came nearer meeting the requirements for raising rabbits right than any other. We also know of a number of breed- ers who are using these hutches and they will use nothing else. Build one; use a dry goods box for the nest room, if you want to build one without the outlay of much money. If you never raised good stock before you will when these hutches are used, but bear in mind that hutches don't make the rabbit but will go a long way toward it, if proper care is given. FEEDS AND FEEDING A GREAT many systems of feeds and feeding find advocates among rabbit men. Nearly all the systems advanced have some advantages, but it will be found that simplicity is the real solution of the problem. The rabbit will subsist and do well on practically any feed suitable for a good dairy cow. Sometimes, how- ever, it is necessary to adapt the rabbit gradually to a change of feeds, when it has already been accustomed to one thing or one kind of feed. A few of the most practical feeds, and remarks on their values follow here : OATS are a good feed, especially if rolled and hulled, but they are rather light in weight and do not provide much protein in pro- portion to their bulk. 12 RABBITS AND D OLL ARS BARLEY, rolled, makes the ideal grain feed for rabbits. It has both weight and protein making qualities, and with a little clover or alfalfa hay makes a full ration in ordinary conditions. Rabbits, like people, however, like variety, so green things and roots will be always acceptable in moderate quantities. WHEAT is rather starchy, but will do when other grains are not readily available. If it must be fed, an equal mixture of wheat and rolled barley or oats is very practical. BRAN is a good filler, and does well mixed with other grains, although the nourishment value is small. CORN, in meal or flour may be fed, but should be boiled first and fed as a- mash, with perhaps a half and half mixture of other grains. KAFFIR CORN, MILO MAIZE do fairly well as rabbit feeds, but the rabbit will need to be adapted to them. ALFALFA is the ideal hay for rabbits, because it is a clover hay, and a great milk producer. TIMOTHY, if this hay is used, it should be mixed with clover or alfalfa. STRAW. This is sometimes used as an emergency "roughness," but is not recommended, as it has practically no nourishment in it. Good clean water should be available at all times in the raising of rabbits. There may be yet some who have the old idea that 7 rabbit can be shaped better and prepared for the shows by not drink- ing any water, getting only such water as may be found in the root crops it eats. We trust that this idea has been well exploded by now, as some of the finest rabbits in this country have been raised and exhibited with plenty of clean, clear, cool water always available. The cruelty of keeping a warm blooded animal that sweats away its moisture, without water, must be apparent to any thinking person. The correct long shape may be easily attained by plenty of room and exercise, and care in not feeding too much green stuff to "pot-gut" the animal. MILK is frequently fed with profit, where it is to be had rea- sonably, especially to does with young. Sometimes it takes a time or two of feeding to get the animal accustomed to it. PEAS make a good fattener for market stock, but are not recom- mended for show stock as they are liable to bring on a potted stom- ach. If fed, they should be soaked over night in water or milk, rab- bits sometimes refusing them at first. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 13 BUYING STOCK RABBIT keeping is generally done for one of two reasons, as a stock raising proposition from a fancier's viewpoint, the breed- ing of thoroughbreds, or from a utility standard, the supply- ing of meat to a market. There are a few rules that apply to the purchase of stock under either of these or other conditions. The first thing in buying any rabbits is health, not only of the specimen bought, but also of all the rabbits in the vicinity that may have been housed with the one bought. That is, in buying stock be very careful as to the health of the rest of the rabbitry. Do NOT buy stock where you hear rabbits snuffling or breathing with a loud noise. Such diseases are transmittable and the one you are buying may be already infected. Examination of stock for health includes first the condition of the coat. A rabbit in good health will have a sleek smooth coat, and one with a rough coat may well be carefully guarded against no matter how plausible the excuse of the seller that she is nursing, or that the damp weather is the cause. A roughened coat practically always indicates a diseased condition somewhere. Then the ears. Look well down into them and any indications of ear canker should preclude your buying the animal. Ear canker is, as a rule, easily cured. BUT you cannot tell by looking at a case whether it is growing into the head, or out into the ear. It is generally fatal when it gets a good start into the head. Now a careful examination of the vent and parts, by holding the animal across the ears and skin of the neck with the left hand, and laying on the table or posing shelf on its back. Press gently above the parts and note whether they have a clean pink appearance. Any rashly inflamed spots or scabs is fair warning that you do not want the animal. As a last stage in the examination of the rabbit for health, hold it against your ear, resting it on your shoulder, and rub its back rather vigorously, noting the sound of the breathing. If there is a rasping or catching sound, or a distinct rattle in the breathing, you do not want that animal either. Use a little observation when you enter a rabbitry, and see that it is clean and well kept, with plenty of ventilation and light. It stands to reason that a well kept, clean rabbitry is liable to be the home of well kept, healthy stock. If you buy stock at a distance, see that you deal with a firm known to be reliable and who will make good if the stock does not. 14 RABBITS AND DOLLARS Do not be too hasty about buying, but look about a bit and have a little correspondence with the firm before purchasing. Note the kind of letter head they have, the way they write a letter and use all your senses to learn the most possible from what you can see of them. Be willing to pay a good price for the stock you get, because no fancier is going to spend his time and thought on stock to produce a good strain to give it away. So beware of the stuff that is offered "cheap," for it generally is cheap in color, size and type as well as price. The foundation of your herd had far better be good and few, than numerous and cheap- It will cost just as much to feed a scrub as a thoroughbred, and a good deal more, in view of the price you can get for the fancy stock, as compared with what you must take for the scrub stock. THE DIFFERENT BREEDS OF RABBITS RUFUS RED BELGIAN HARES THIS type of animal has probably had the greatest vogue of any rabbit in the world, and particularly in America. He is still very popular and his fine racy shape and beautiful color is to be admired. The rich red "Rufus" under coat and the fine black hair ends, or ticking, or a live Belgian Hare must be seen to be appreciated. Of course, the Belgian Hare so called is not really a hare, but a rabbit. The name Belgian Hare is given the type because of his hare-like appearance, shown by his racy shape and bright half-wild eye. In selecting stock of this type look first at the color. The back should have the deep red undercoat spoken of, which is best described perhaps, by the word auburn. The ends of the hairs to a large extent, but not entirely, should be black, giving a shaded or ticked appearance. The later types show less of this ticking than formerly, however, and care should be taken not to select too dark a kind of ticking. The feet and legs should be a nice clear red, with but little ticking.. The belly should be a rich cream color, with a distinct color difference at the sides, or in other words, a sharp line between the belly and back color. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 15 The ears should be as near as possible to four and one-half inches in the mature specimen. They should be carried up well and carried in style, points near together and straight throughout, some- what on the order of the following photograph, which is a good type of the Belgian Hare. RUFUS RED BELGIAN HARE By Courtesy of Joseph Blank See that the legs are slim and fine boned, but watch that the mature animal comes up to the standard in weight, eight pounds for the doe and seven pounds for the buck. The young should run a trifle over a pound for each month of age. In buying either young or old stock be sure to use the examina- tion methods suggested in the first part of this article, looking for symptoms of diseases. It is suggested that you study thoroughly all the diseases given in this book, and any others you may be able to find, in other books. 16 RABBITS AND DOLLARS You will not find many diseases that a rabbit is heir to, as compared with some other animals and with chickens, but the few there are, are frequently contagious and may be fatal, and the care- ful buyer will avoid having or buying any stock with any disease. BREEDING OF BELGIAN HARES HAVING selected your foundation stock with care, the next step is to move toward the perpetuation of the strain. If you have bought a trio, that is two does and a buck, for a starter, you have probably looked as well as you can to the point sof the animals, their coloring, length; shape, type, etc., and how they match as to points. You should see that the weak points of the one are well cov- ered by the other. A weak colored doe should be mated to a strongly colored or perhaps too dark a buck. Perfection comes only afttr long breeding and is not to be bought too cheaply. Hence, if you must start with stock a little off on account of the expense, try and mate up the points so that it will not show in the offspring. The same things apply to weight and to type, that is, length and carriage. Always balance point to point. In breeding a doe, always take her to the buck's hutch, and then stand there and watch until they have mated. This will be easily perceived, as they are very quick in their actions, but do not leave the doe there after they have mated once or twice, as the continual attentions of the buck may result in harming her. If they will mate at all it will be in the first three or four minutes, as a rule. If the doe runs away continuously with a whining noise, it is a sign she is not yet ready to mate, but if she merely runs away to tease him, and does not whine or cry out, leave her there a few minutes while you watch. After the doe is bred take her back to her hutch, preferably a light well ventilated hutch of at least thirty by thirty inches. She will drop her litter in thirty-one days and a card should be placed on her hutch to that effect. This card may be of the following form : HUTCH RECORD Name , Born Sire Dame Price Due Number of From young RABBITS AND DOLL ARS 17 This form gives the record of either doe or buck, as the date when due (thirty-one days from breeding) will apply either to the doe who is to produce the young, or the buck who is the sire. By this means the productive qualities of either doe or buck can be noted, by keeping the middle column in order, with the number of young produced. The last column may indicate a doe in case this record is being used for a buck, or for a buck, if the record is being kept for a doe. The form here is simple, purposely so, as the more elaborate records taking in the whole details of numbers of bucks and does, times of testing, and so forth, are very liable to be poorly kept. A simple record well kept tells more than a very elaborate record partly kept. About ten days before the doe is due to litter, it is well to start her on a little milk. If the fresh milk is not to be had, a little con- densed milk poured into the drinking water will be very fine for her and the coming babies. A proportion of one part ordinary condensed milk to six parts water is about right. If she will not take to this readily it will be found that depriving her of any other than the milk-water will bring her to it in a day or so. Of course, this will apply only to stock of sufficient value to warrant the expense, and the stock now under discussion is the thoroughbred Belgian Hare. About seven or eight days before the babies come place a nest box in the hutch. (See page 18). Fill this nearly half full of clean straw or a good grade of shavings, and it will be well to see that these are still in the box a day or so before she litters. The advantages of a nest box of this type are the cheaper con- struction, as it costs less than to build one into a hutch and is less bother, and mainly, that it is so much easier to keep clean and sani- tary. After the young are three or four weeks old, or a bit older in the winter, the nest box may be taken out, scraped, cleaned and painted. Then it is ready for the next doe to use. After the babies come keep up the milk diet as well as the regu- lar feeding, until they are about a month old, when the milk diet may be discontinued. But it should be borne in mind that no great change of diet should take place between the time the mother is bred and the time the young are weaned. Especially does this apply to the addition of new foods, so that the larger quantities you can purchase your hays and grains in, the better it will be, on account of the ability to keep on one style of feeding all the time. 18 RABBITS 'AND DOLLARS NEST BOX -SHOWING Lib CONSTkUCTION Do not examine the babies at all, nor attempt to clean the hutch until they are at least three days old. Then pursue carefully the following method : Remove the doe from the hutch and put her on the table or in another hutch. Put on gloves, if you wish, or not, but in either case rub your hands lightly in a dry place on the hutch floor, then stroke the stom- ach of the mother doe quite a few times. This is to get the scent of the mother on your hands or gloves. Now notice just what position the next box is in, and which way it faces. Take it out and pry off the cover which you have secured with a small nail or two. Count the young quickly, removing any dead, and replace the next box any way you found it. Put in some green stuff, or some bread, or else a little con- densed milk into the feed bowl to furnish some detraction, so she RABBITS AND DOLLARS 19 will not get immediately to her babies. By the time she does it will be all right. These precautions carefully followed will be well repaid in the production and successful raising of much stock that might be otherwise lost. Separate the young from the mother at eight to ten weeks of age. Any attempt to separate them from her sooner may result in slob- bers, or acute indigestion, seemingly due to the fact that she teaches them to eat, and has not had time to wean them gradually from her milk and break them in on solid foods. Separate the sexes between three and four months and the bucks from each other very shortly after, as they arc liable to fight and fight for months. Always be regular in your feeding and care of the rabbits and they will more than repay your efforts. Keep the cards up on your hutches regularly, and write out a new one every time you trans- fer a young rabbit from its mother or from another brother or sister. Do not rely on little books or memorandum, as these may get lost or mislaid, and then you are in the dark as to the rabbits' ancestry when you wish to pedigree them. THE FLEMISH GIANT IN buying the Flemish Giant the natural object is weight and a heavy frame to carry that weight. Color is desirable, especially for show purposes, but the anxiety to gain great weight in single specimens has led to the showing of stock under several classifica- tions for Flemish Giants, such as steel grays, light steel grays, dark steel grays, blacks, silver tips and possibly some others of less im- portance. The hardest color to maintain in this type, and correspondingly the most valuable, is the dark steel gray. This is as near as hair may come to a piece of new cast iron, just from the molds. When one can obtain this very desirable color and weight also in the same specimen, it is indeed a treasure, and should be held at a high figure if any desire is had to promote the rabbit business along these lines. The standard weight for the Flemish Giant is eleven pounds for the buck and thirteen for the doe. That is to say, these are the mini- mums. If one can produce a well fleshed, firm muscled individual of more than these weights, they bring a correspondingly larger 20 RABBITS AND DOLLARS price and attract great favor in the shows. Flemish Giant bucks have attained greater weights than there, up to 18£ pounds. Does run still heavier and have been known to touch twenty pounds. After getting a satisfactory specimen weight and color, look well to the manner of carrying the ears.. There is quite a tendency among the Giant class to lop their ears, and one should see that the ears are carried nice and straight, something on a rather wide V order. They do not need to be carried to a point as in the Belgian Hare. The frame or bone work of the Flemish Giant should be large and roomy and capable of bearing a large weight of meat. The coat, in any of the colors, should be sleek and healthy looking. Never buy a rough coated or ill-kept animal in any type or class. A rabbit in good health always keeps its coat in good, sleek condition, even while nursing. Any dead or rough looking coat is an indication that something is wrong with the animal, even though you may not be able to tell what particular disease it has. An unscrupulous dealer may assure you it is only because the animal is nursing, or some other plausible excuse, but always bear in mind that a healthy rab- bit is first of all a sleek one. Unscrupulous dealers in the rabbit game, are like rabbit dis- eases, rather rare, but that does not lessen our need of looking out for them. Be cautious, but be also willing to give your fellow man credit for as much honesty as you have until it is proven otherwise. Length should be a feature in the Flemish Giant, for without length of frame you cannot gain great weight, there is no place to put it. A glance at the following photo will illustrate the force of this argument. LIGHT STEEL GRAY FLEMISH DOE. WEIGHS 11 LBS. AT 5 MONTHS RABBITS AND DOLLARS 21 In the blacks the same general rules as the foregoing are in order, in' the buying of stock. Weight is really the primary con- sideration, if it can be attained without fat in too great quantities. The silver tips are not very desirable as fine specimens. The light grays are generally the largest animals. Their color is not as yet perfect. It is hoped that they may be bred to better color, and you may trust to the Flemish breeder to do so. The breeding of Flemish Giants follows much on the order of that given for Belgian Hares, except that allowances must be made in the feeding for the heavier weight of animal in the Flemish Giant. The mother doe will need more room before nesting than perhaps the Belgian would require, except where particular care was taken with the Belgian Hare to preserve the long, slim shape by giving a longer hutch with a dividing board in the middle. The nest-box, too, should be a little larger, measuring about twenty inches long by twelve by sixteen inches deep and wide, in- stead of the standard size. (See page 18). Especially is this true in the spring and fall months when the weather is warmer. No rabbit, whatever the breed, should be bred in the hot months, but should be managed in such a way that three or four litters re- quired may be produced in the months outside of June, July and August. This may be modified to July and August in the northern parts of the United States and similarly cool sections. In the heavier breeds three litters a year from good stock is a great plenty, as they require a longer time with the mother, three to four months. Four litters is a fair enough production in the lighter breeds. The fancier who has some consideration for his pets aside from a purely dollars and cents standpoint, will find that in a few years he has bred stock of such superior quality that the difference in price per individual rabbit will more than make the difference in litters he may have lost by not "pushing" his stock to too great an extent. The superior quality of the individual specimen makes more reputation for the fancier who cares, than the great quantity he may ship. In the case of the Flemish Giant, here weight is so desirable, it is generally the custom to provide a nurse doe for the young. This is done by breeding another doe of less value and of the good mothering types, such as the Dutch or other small rabbits. Then 22 RABBITS AND DOLLARS the young are born and are one or two days old, kill off the young of the cheaper doe and substitute those of the Flemish Giant doe. A few precautions should be observed here to make sure that the new mother will take to her foster babies, although as a rule they are not hard to manage along these lines. Take out the nurse doe and put her in another hutch, as in the instructions for inspecting Belgian Hare young. Kill off all or part of her young so as to leave plenty of space for the Flemish young. The nurse doe should not carry over five young, so if you are divid- ing a litter of eight Flemish Giants, you should kill off four of the nurse doe's young to make room for four of the Flemish, leaving four Flemish on the original mother, and four on the nurse doe with perhaps one of her own. After killing off the nurse doe's young, take a baby Flemish and rub it well over the stomach of the nurse doe, having scented your hands or gloves from the nurse doe's hutch. Repeat this opera- tion twice and then wait till the next day to chance over the other two. This makes it easier on both does. Sometimes it is not practical to have a nurse doe, or it may not litter when the other doe does. In this case the following plan will work well : After three or four days kill off the smaller ones of the litter down to six or seven, and then increase the milk diet, that is, make it stronger, to about one part condensed milk to two parts water, after the manner mentioned in the part on Belgian Hares. This increased milk strength will operate to supply milk to the doe and will result in practically as heavy young as by the other method, and with really less trouble. It costs considerably less by this method also, but, of course, a few cents per rabbit is of no great matter when high class stock is considered. NEW ZEALAND RED RABBIT THE selection of the correct type of the New Zealand rabbit is a little more difficult matter, owing to the fact that it is rather a recent breed to the average American fancier. The bit of advice given in the earlier portion of this work rela- tive to selecting a reliable dealer applies with especial force here. The breed being somewhat new and the standard not so firmly settled in the minds of the average fancier as yet, it is highly ad- visable to study out the ads in the rabbit magazines and journals RABBITS AND DOLLARS 23 carefully and select from a dealer of good reputation who has been breeding the species for some time. We believe that California is noted as the state in which the breed first became a commercial reality. The color of this rabbit is not so red as the Rufus Red Belgian Hare, but rather a tawney color, or heavy tan. It is distinctly off a yellow or golden fawn color, but it is really not a red at all in the exact color sense of the term. It might be said that it is on the half shade between a good yellow tan and a real Rufus Red color. The mature specimens will run in weight considerably heavier than a Belgian Hare, but not so heavy as a Flemish Giant. In length they should compare favorably with the Belgian Hare perhaps a little longer. The flesh should be firm and the poise or pose dignified and reserved. They will not, of course, have the racy wild appearance of the Hare, but should appear full of life and vim. The belly or under body color should be lighter than the coat on the back, but not white. FINE SPECIMEN NEW ZEALAND CARE OF THE NEW ZEALAND RED RABBIT THE same general rules for the care of the Flemish Giant and the Rufus Red Will apply here also. Provide the larger size nest box for the mother, as given under the heading Flemish Giants. Fancy Breeds By CHAS. S. GIBSON America's Foremost Authority and Judge of Kaliltits CHAMPAGNE D'ARGENT (French Silver) THIS beautiful rabbit is better known by the name of French Silver in America, and in California we find a flourishing French Silver Club. THEIR SIZE AND TYPE are similar to the New Zealand Rabbits of 9 pounds on the bucks and 10 pounds on the does, al- though these weights are hard to make and often we find them weighing 8 and 9 pounds. At the present time this rabbit is without a doubt the best fur rabbit we have when it comes to using the fur without dying it. IT OWES ITS ORIGIN to France and made its first appear- ance in this country in California during the year of 1913. ITS HEAD and ears are not quite as thick as the New Zea- land but more on the Belgian Hare. The ears should be 5 inches and over in length. THE COLOR should resemble the color of a new silver coin. This color should be even over the feet, chest, face, head, ears, body and tail. The nose usually is darker and in the form of a butterfly. The tail is also darker. The under color is a bluish color. When first born they are almost solid black and soon start becoming lighter in color. THE AMERICAN BLUE RABBIT The first American Blue was exhibited by Lewis Salisbury at Los Angeles, Cal., 1917, and judged and named by the writer. This rabbit was named "Major" and has been the sire of more prize winners than any other rabbit in America. This popular rabbit owes its popularity to that prince of fan- ciers, Judge Salisbury of Pasadena, Cal. Weight about 9 pounds on bucks and 10 pounds on does. AS A MEAT AND FUR RABBIT the American Blue is hard to beat. It reaches the frying age as quickly as any other breed and its beautiful blue fur can be used either as long or clipped fur. RABBITS AND DO LL ARS 25 AMERICAN BLUE RABBIT By Courtesy of Joseph Blank ITS TYPE is different than any of our other rabbits. Man- dolin in type, meaning its front quarteis are much more narrow than the hind quarters. Its hind quarters being large and good for meat. , ITS HEAD, ears and limbs should be on the graceful order and not thick and heavy like the Blue Flemish- Giant. They should be a dark rich slate blue with short, dense and smooth coat, free, from white hairs, rusty color or white toe nails. The eyes should match the body color. The light shades of the American Blue are often used to imitate the Blue Fox. ITS ORIGIN can be traced to the Flemish Giant but by care- ful breeding the Flemish type has been entirely bred out of them and today they are one of the most valuable rabbits we have in America. THE HIMALAYAN RABBIT One of our most valuable fur rabbits especially when made up into fur sets and sold for Ermine It is a small rabbit not very long, and very slender in body with short ears, pink eyes and a very silky coat of fur. In the early history of the rabbit it was known by the follow-. ing different names: "Egyptian Smut," "Antwerp" and "Chinese Smut Nose Rabbit." To Mrs. L. B. Hackett of Oakland, Cal., goes the credit of mak- ing this rabbit so popular throughout the United States. We find 26 RABBITS AND DOLLARS more Himalayans in California than all of the other states together. In California we find the Himalayan Rabbit Fur Farms. THE HIMALAYAN RABBIT By Courtesy of Joseph Blank This rabbit should weigh between three and four pounds in weight in maturity. WHEN BORN they are pure white, and the nose smut, feet and tail blackens up in a few days. THE HIND LEGS are the most important markings and the boosts as they are called should extend up well above the knees and be a solid black. THE FRONT LEGS should also be solid black but the boosts never extend up the legs so far as on the hind legs. THE EARS should be solid black and have the appearance of being set on the white color of the head. THE NOSE smut should be in the shape of an olive and with- out any jagged appearance on the sides or either end, and should extend below the jaws and well up between the eyes. TAIL should also be black. THE BODY and other parts should be a beautiful white and the fur soft, short and close and not wiry. When a Himalayan is in perfect coat the feet can be split after the hide has been removed, and split at each toe, making sixteen Ermine Tails, while the body fur is large enough for two Ermines. THE MEAT of this little rabbit is also very fine. Smudgy eye stains are disqualifications and specimens having the smudgy eye should never be bred. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 27 THE ANGORA RABBIT THE ANGORA is one of our most beautiful Rabbits. They are bred in WHITES, BLUES and BLACKS or "Smokes" as they should be called. They are never bred real black. This variety is supposed to have originated in Asia Minor and Persia. THE ANGORA, "GOLDEN FLEECE" By Courtesy of A. Weygandt Years ago the peasants of Switzerland and France are said to have bred them in large numbers for their fur. They clipped the fur and sold it to large manufacturers wiio then made it up into articles of clothing. A large firm in California has been trying to promote the breeding of Angora Rabbits for its wool. It is too early at this writing to know whether it will be a suc- cess or not. The price set by the English Government was 22 shillings per pound for the wool. The average Angora should produce 4 ounces at a clipping and with two clippings a year it would make 8 ounces each year from a fully matured Angora. This would give a value of $2.00 alone in wool from each rabbit besides having it still left for a breeder. THE MEAT is just as good as any other rabbit and they should weigh about 9 pounds at maturity. 28 RABBITS AND DOLLARS THE QUALITY of wool should be long and of a soft, fine Jexture. FEET AND TAIL to have fringe of wool hanging from them. CHEST AND HEAD should have wool as long and heavy as possible, with tufts of wool extending down over the eyes. EARS with good thick wool, and tufts of wool on tips of ears. WOOL must be free from mats of any kind. It is necessary to keep this rabbit brushed out every day and to also keep straw or hay from; becoming matted in its wool and a great many breed- ers cut the hay up into small pieces of five or six inches, and have them in a hutch above and away from the dirt or dust. DUTCH MARKED RABBITS The Dutch Rabbits have always been one of the most popu- lar rabbits in both this country as well as England. While it is a fancy rabbit, it is also highly desired on account of the does making such good foster mothers; also for their fine meat. mm*m*mm* sfy r' w wunintfiifc) nnn.miTwi i jm DUTCH DOE, MISS PERFECTION By Courtesy of Hale Prather THEIR COBBY SHAPE makes them a very desirable rabbit for fryers, and they take on fat much easier than any other rabbit. THEIR BEAUTIFUL MARKINGS place them in a class by themselves. They should weigh not more than 5 pounds at maturity. THE COLORS are black, blue, tortoise and steel gray. BODY COLOR: Chest pure white. A white collar starting just clear of front legs and running through to the ears, running in a clean cut circle on top flanks and belly, and forming what is RABBITS AND DOLLARS 29 called the saddle. Head, blaze in shape, white wedge, rounding and just missing the whiskers, and becoming narrow at the ears, and ending up with a tiny white line connecting the face blaze with the belt. The white back of the ears should also come into the ears in the shape of a wedge. THE HIND LEGS solid color to match body color with the exception of about one and one-half inches from the toes which should be solid white and even around on top and bottom. THE EYES should match the body color and a wall eye or an off colored eye disqualifies in this breed. THE DUTCH RABBITS also seem to be more hardy than any of the other varieties. BLACKS AND BLUES should be mated together in order that the colors may be kept up to standard. EARS should be solid colors and free from white hairs. The body should also be solid color and free from white hairs or white patches. THE COLLAR OR BELT should just miss the front legs and the body color should not show on the back side of the front legs at all. BLUE AND TANS— BLACK AND TANS This popular little rabbit is one of the oldest we have any rec- ord of but very scarce in this country. BLACK AND TAN RABBIT By Courtesy of Joseph Blank They are also classed among the fancy breeds. Many years ago in England it was a common thing to see many warrens of 30 RABBITS AND DOLLARS these rabbits and they have always been popular with the English fancier. THE BLACKS should have rich black over the head, body and face, outside the ears, feet, legs and top of the tail. Bright tan color inside part of feet, legs, under part of tail, back part of legs, flanks, belly, chest, under jaw, nostril, base of each ear, inside of ears, behind ears, a triangle, and to also form tan color at base of triangle to meet tan on chest, cheek and eyes. THE BLACK COLOR should be a rich shiny black and the tan a deep rich tan. TYPE should be similar to the Dutch. EYES : Hazel in black and blue in the blues. WEIGHT: Not over 4 pounds. . THE BLUES to be the same as the blacks only substitute the blue color where the black has been described. ENGLISH SPOTTED RABBITS THEIR TYPE is between the Belgian Hare and the Silvers. It has always been known as the hardest rabbit in the world to produce and when the eye beholds a specimen bred up anywhere near the standard of perfection of this rabbit it becomes an object of beauty. It is such a difficult matter to breed these specimens up t.> the standard that if the breeders succeed in producing one fine specimen in a dozen litters he may consider himself fortunate. This rabbit was first bred in England in the year 1885 from the common White Pink Eye. There has always been a few in America but it has only been during the past few years that we have found them in large classes in the American show rooms. COLOR: Black, blue,, tortoise and steel gray. SIZE: Not to be over 6 pounds. HEAD — White with solid butterfly or smut nose color to match body color. A white spot in this butterfly to disqualify. Also part of the butterfly absent to disqualify. One or more prongs absent, severe cuts. EYE CIRCLES: To be round and solid color around the eyes and pure white around the circles with a small eye spot directly beneath the circle and free from the circle with the white running between the circle and spot. The color of both to match body color. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 31 EARS: To be short and solid color. The ears are the hard- est points of all to breed and it is very seldom we ever find a good pair of solid colored ears on an English rabbit. BACK MARKINGS' Saddle markings with herring bone markings starting just back of the ears and gradually becoming larger down the back and running in an unbroken line to the end of tail. The widest marking of the line should be just above the hip bones and tapering off again to the tail. STOMACH: Pure white with six teat spots to match body spots. KNEE SPOTS : To have four knee spots, one on the out- side of each knee. CHAIN MARKINGS: To start near the base of the ear in a single line and becoming a double line on the sides to extend down the sides to the center of each side and in a slanting chain. At the center of the sides and about one inch from the stomach line the spots should become larger and run over the top and bot- tom of the flanks in rows of spots. These spots should all be as solid color as possible and not together but showing white between each spot. Like the Dutch the good English specimens can be picked out before they have their eyes opened. They are also used for meat and are very fine. Their fur is also used. THE HAVANA RABBIT Was first exhibited in America during the year of 1915 and are very hard to raise in this country. It originated in Holland and was perfected in France, and then exported to England and other countries. The sire is unknown, therefore it is not possible to state how it was bred. It was at first called "fire eye," then "castors" and finally Havanas by the French. It is the only rabbit having a fire red eye, and a peculiar thing is that by crossing it with a Himalayan rabbit the result will be black eyes and no red eyes. When they were first introduced they had very weak feet color, 32 RABBITS AND DOLL ARS which has been strengthened by crossing them with the Black and Tans. • Their fur is very valuable and sometimes used to imitate beaver. SIZE: Seven pounds and as much larger as possible. COLOR : Rich bright brown, somewhat resembling a cigar in color. Under color, pale and gray. EYES: Color of body with red pupil and soft expression. EARS : Four inches long and match body color. TOE NAILS: Brown. DISQUALIFICATIONS: All general disqualifications and white patches or gray hair. JAPANESE RABBIT The Jap Rabbit is very scarce in this country and when once seen is not easily forgotten. They can be made easily by crossing a Black and Tan buck with a New Zealand doe and then cross breeding by carefully selecting the proper matings. If you take a New Zealand Rabbit and a brush of black paint and try to paint tiger stripes on the New Zealand you will have a very good Jap Rabbit. The markings are very irregular and have the appearances of just blotches or splashes. One black eye and the other fawn some regular fine lines and other in spots over the head, and other places. Their fur is used for door-mats, pin cushions and many other useful articles. DISQUALIFICATIONS: All genera! disqualifications, also little or no distribution of colors. Too light or too dark, faded or washed colors, white markings except the white claws. Body too long or too steep at back. Fur rugged or defective. SHAPE AND SIZE: Short thick with powerful legs, weight about 8 pounds. HEAD MEDTUM size and well spotted with black patches. EARS MEDIUM size, spotted patches to match body color. MARKINGS: to be irregular and patches of different colors. UNDER COLOR: Shiny, and shading from a cream to brick red. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 33 SILVER GRAY, FAWN AND BROWN The Silvers have never been popular in America but in England they have always been verj' popular and especially the Silver Grays, which at one time was the most popular rabbit in England. The Silver Club in England today is the largest rabbit club they have. The Silver Grays are very valuable for their rich fur. This rabbit is supposed to have been bred up from the wild English rabbit called "Wild Grr.ys." It became popular in England about the year 1899. The young are born black and commence to show the light silvering at about 6 weeks of age. COLOR: It is a very difficult matter to describe the color. The first or bottom color should be rich, blue black, then an even distribution of silvering or white hairs, covering the chest, body, feet, head, ears and cheeks. The silvering should be uniform and govern the shade of color. The light shades will have the largest amount of silvering, while the dark shades will have the small amount. THE MEDIUM SHADE is the most popular. THE FUR should be of medium length, not too long and very silky. The ears are liable to run too light in color. SIZE AND SHAPE: Under 6 pounds. To be short, neat and sprightly. EARS: Short, erect and well colored. EYES: Large and blight. COLOR: On Silver Grays the under color is a deep blue black; in Fawns a rich orange color. SILVERING: Should be evenly distributed over the body, head, feet and ears. These Silvers are very valuable as a fur rabbit. SILVER BROWN RABBITS Same type size and silvering as the Gra)^3 only the under color starts at the skin with bright slate blue which should extend part way of the hair and meet a rich bright chestnut color. It is then finished with the silvering, same as the Grays. Silver Fawns same as the Grays only their under color is a beautiful orange color. 34 RABBITS AND DOLLARS The writer has always contended that our New Zealands came from the Silver Fawn. AMERICAN CHECKERED GIANTS One of America's most popular rabbits. This rabbit originated in Germany and at the present time we have both the German and American strains and types in this country. The majority of the American Rabbit Breeders are confused and not able to tell the difference between the two. The writer was amused a short while ago to see a writer in a prominent magazine write how much more beautiful the American strain was than the German strain. He then proceeded to describe the German strain as the type he was breeding. The American strain has been crossed with the Flemish until it has more of a flat back than the German strain and also has large patches instead of the smaller and more beautiful German Checkered markings. The German strain also has better saddle markings from the ears to the tail. This marking was called chain markings by the above writer. The American strain has poor saddle markings, also poor head and ears, and butterflys, and permits one cheek spot to be missing. By the American breeder requiring patches instead of the beau- tiful checkered markings we find the poor heads, faces and side patches joined onto the saddle markings. These are all wrong and the writer hopes in the near future to see us go back to the real Checkered Giants with their beautiful type and good clean markings. They are bred in blacks, blues, tortoise and grays. HEAD AND EARS: Nose should be a perfect butterfly al- though the standard permits one-half to be missing,' white patch or split butterfly disqualifies. EYE CIRCLES with cheek spot same as English. EARS are also very hard to breed solid color. SIZE: Bucks 11 pounds, does 12 or more. SIDE COLOR: Sides should be free from any chain mark- ings and no spots past the center of side nearest the ears. On the other side towards the tail two or more patches should appear and not attached together or to the saddle markings, but a clean field of white should appear between the white patches, also between RABBITS AND DOLLARS 35 the white patches and saddle markings. The stomach should be white. SADDLE MARKINGS: A. straight line starting back of the ears and becoming gradually larger near the hips when it again becomes gradually smaller to the tail and should be an unbroken line. The standard permits two-thirds to be missing before it is a disqualification. Three colors disqualifies. The fur and meat are very valuable in this rabbit and many beautiful sets of fur are made from its fur by the v/omen throughout the different parts of the country. LOP EARED RABBITS, ENGLISH AND FRENCH Few people in America realize what a valuable rabbit the Eng- lish Lop Ear is. It is one of the best fur and meat rabbits we have. The hide is a trifle thicker than other breeds and in the blacks we find the blackest color of any rabbit we have. THE PRINCIPLE POINTS of the Lops are the length and breadth of its ears, the size, color and condition. In the English Lops they should be as large as possible. Speci- mens weighing 14 pounds are not uncommon. COLORS: Blacks, fawns, blue, gray and orange. BROKEN COLORS: Any of these colors mixed, together with white. IN THE BROKEN COLORS the saddle should be a dark color and from this the color should run in two lines or large spots to the ears, which should be solid dark color. The nose and skull should be dark and a dark rim should encircle each eye, the re- mainder of the Lop being pure white. The head markings are very important because a fine lop is admired by the front view. EARS : A fully matured specimen should not have ears less than 20 inches long by 4 inches in breadth. The longest on record have 28i by 71. In measuring the ears first place a yard stick and place on the top of the ear, holding one end firmly at the end of the measuring stick, then stretch out firmly on the ears until they are at their full length. To obtain the width, turn the ears over and place the measuring stick on the bottom side and stretch the ears cross ways and at their widest places will be their width 36 RABBITS AND DOLLARS French Lops are judged the same only by a smaller in size, type and earage. BLACK SIBERIAN The rabbit, which originated in Canada and which was fought by the rabbit breeders in the States because at the start it was only the Black Flemish posing under a new name. During the past two years the Canadian breeders have changed the standard on it until it is the same size, as the New Zealand and resembles the Belgian Hare in type. There are many gpod arguments for the Black Siberian. To begin with the name pleases the public for they like to be fooled and dislike to think they are wearing rabbit fur or eating rabbit meat, and even the word "hare" makes a world of difference, and until we can educate the whole public into eating the rabbit meat and wearing the rabbit fur under their true names the Black Siberian will render us great assistance. HEAD: Medium, not too large or showing Flemish type. EARS : Large, long and inclined to be pointed. EYES: Dark brown. DOES: Dew laps as small as possible. BODY: Long, graceful and similar to Belgian Hare. LIMBS: Long, large bone and strong carrying the body well off the ground. TAIL: Very long. COLOR: Jet black throughout with exception of soles of feet, which are bluish brown. WEIGHT: Bucks, not over 9 pounds. Does, not over 10 pounds. FUR: Thick, dense, long. White patches to disqualify. THE WHITE NEW ZEALAND RABBIT "THE NEW FUR-BEARING RABBIT" By W. S. Preshaw, Ripon, California ORIGIN. Nearly three years ago the writer, who at that time was raising New Zealand Reds, in examining a nest of young, found that four of them were pure white and three were red. Three of the whites were does and one buck. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 37 Believing that a white New Zealand would be a profitable and popular breed, I thought I would see what would be the outcome of line breeding. One of the does I lost by heat before she was old enough to breed. The other two does were bred to the white buck. Not knowing what the outcome would be, I did not attempt to sell or exhibit them until I had the third generation. WHITE NEW ZEALAND RABBIT By Courtesy of W. S. Treshaw In October, 1919, I exhibited them at the Stockton, California, Fair, as White New Zealands. They have been exhibited at six dif- ferent shows and fairs in the last year and have always attracted a great deal of attention. At the big Championship Show in San Fran- cisco, January 29 to February 1, 1920, there were twenty-one entries. Judge C. S. Gibson in commenting on them at this show, said that they were of the true New Zealand type and with their pure white fur they were bound to become very popular. Judge Salisbury in commenting on them at the State Fair at Sacramento, said that they were absolutely perfect in New Zealand type. * THE FUR of the White New Zealand is as fine as the famous Himalayan fur and as they grow to about twice the size of the Him- alayan, they are sure to be very popular among the fanciers that are growing fur rabbits. FROM A FANCIER'S POINT OF VIEW, there is nothing that can beat the White New Zealand for beauty, fur or meat. I have raised nearly two hundred, and not one of them has been 38 RABBITS AND DOLLARS off in color or type. Have raised rabbits for the last twenty-three years and never raised as healthy stock as these have been. A STANDARD has been established for them, so that from now on they will be eligible to registry and will be judged by stand- ard, thus establishing them as a new breed of rabbit. THE BLUE FLEMISH GIANT The Blue Flemish Giant is of recent finding and a variety that will no doubt become very popular. In the first place, we have a rabbit that hss the size and weight and type of any of the other Giants and breeds true to color, which is a big point in its favor over the other Flemish, since it is well known that the different shades of gray and the black seldom litter true to color. However, it is true that some breeders by scientific mating of stock have produced strains that breed true to color (in respect to the grays and blacks) but the results are more the excep- tion than the rule. TRUE TO COLOR. A Blue Flemish breeding true to color surely has an advantage over the other kinds of Flemish in this re- spect, with the exception of perhaps the White, which also breeds true. ORIGIN. The writer contends that the Blue Flemish was cre- ated the same as the New Zealand Red, and a number of other vari- eties. That it is by "sports," so called, at times, a steel blue doe will throw a blue rabbit as will a steel blue buck by breeding a steel blue father to his own daughter. From this, good colored offsprings are likely to be the result, and is probably the origin of the Blue Flemish Giant. WEIGHT. There is no doubt but that the standard weights for this blue rabbit should be high, for the reason — that they are — as a rule, as large as the other breeds of Flemish; they carry the same large bone and frame. Then again, the heaviest rabbit at the Seattle, Wash., show, 1920, was a Blue Flemish, which is evidence in itself that in considering this rabbit, one of the most important factors should be in regard to weight. IN GENERAL. There seems to be a desire on the part of some RABBITS AND DOLLARS 39 of the prominent judges in the country to keep the Blue Flemish in the background. Some of the reasons are laughable, as for instance, that it will cause some ''unscrupulous" breeders to sell the small Blue Flemish for Blue Imperials; when medium size sell as American Blues; and when large sell as Blue Flemish Giants. Let it be un- derstood, however, that there is a vast difference in the three breeds mentioned and there is really nothing to these arguments. The Blue Flemish will doubtless become a popular rabbit in demand, and so far as supply is concerned, will be scarce for several years. Those who are starting to raise them now ought certainly to breed with enthusiasm of the highest, knowing that there is a market for every rabbit produced of quality, and at a very excellent price. THE WHITE FLEMISH GIANT THE WHITE FLEMISH GIANTS may reasonably compare with the Blue Flemish — the most important difference being the color. SIZE. Compares favorably with the others in a general way Some breeders claim that this breed is the most profitable to handle since some of the youngsters weigh about six pounds at three months. When matured, they come to close quarters of being high in weight of the Flemish kind, reaching 15* pounds. IN GENERAL APPEARANCE. They are large— but symmet- rical — most imposing and mighty attractive in looks. Head and shoulders finely set — ears well erect. Tn length they certainly do show up in excellency. BREEDING. This rabbit breeds true to color which makes it a favorite among breeders of Flemish who desire to produce a par- ticular kind. FUR. In its natural state can be used for many things. This also makes this rabbit rather popular. ORIGIN. Here is another rabbit — strange as it might seem — that is a "sport," so called, from other Giants. In instances of the other breeds of Flemish — there are rare occurrences where a White rabbit is produced — but it is a fact generally recognized, that a White Flemish — no matter of what parentage — will breed true to cojor at all times. 40 RABBITS AND DOLLARS ■a fc a Q RABBITS AND DOLLARS 41 GENERAL REMARKS ON RABBIT CULTURE Pointers Essential to Observe GENERAL REMARKS ON RABBIT CULTURE IT is well to avoid the breeding of freak or new type rabbits, espe- cially at first. Stick to established breeds and try to make all the improvements in them that you can by careful selection of the best specimens from each litter. Choose out what you think are the best two or three from a litter at three months of age, then go around to numerous rabbitries handling the breed and discuss the points of that type of rabbit, comparing with the specimens handled by the various breeders. Attend any shows that are in the neighborhood, or that you can get to, and listen to the discussions of the various breeders. Read up all the books you can get on the subject, and if they appear to disagree, write to the authors for their private opinions of the things you wish to know. They may have learned dif- ferently by then and be able to help you get the truth of the matter. Join as many of the rabbit associations that you can benefit by attending the meetings as much as you can, or read up the reports in the various magazines. About a month after you have selected the best from the litters, as shown above, try them out again by comparison, using the knowl- edge you have since gained by the attendance to clubs, other rab- bitries, magazines, books, etc. In short, CONSTANTLY STUDY THE INDUSTRY from every possible angle. Even if you are raising them only for meat, a little study along these lines will more than repay you. You may want to make some money from them some day. Subscribe to all the magazines you can. Read them, as they will mean as much as good rabbits for your success. There are rabbit departments maintained in various poultry journals and kept up more or less regularly. This idea is ra'pidly gaining ground and it may be well to look into them, if you have the time and inclination after subscribing to all the pet stock and rabbit magazines you can. These rabbit journals range in price from 50 cents to one dollar per year, at the present writing, but because of possible changes in price, it will be well to write for sample copies, which they will be glad to send you. By this means you will see which you like best and what they will cost you at that time per year. PART 2 The Commercial Side A Most Profitable Proposition MARKET STOCK. — The ultimate purpose of rabbit raising is for meat, either for oneself or to sell, or both. Of course, as long as there are sportsmen and fanciers in the world there will always be a good demand for the fancy type of rabbit at a good price. Fine specimens of the meat types, even, will always bring a better price than the pound value. This is true in hogs and cattle and will always be true in any type of utility animal. In feeding market stock, whether of a type or what are called "commons," accustom them gradually to various feeds, being careful not to make sudden changes in the diet of breeding does. But the young or fattening stock should be accustomed to eating as wide a range of foods as possible and should be fed quite heavily, all that they will clean up well. Bring these to killing weight as soon as possible- It will be found in most cities that the favorite weights for dressing are one and one-half to two pounds, dressed. This means a live weight of three to four pounds, as the animal when young will dress just half away. In the heavier breeds it will be found that they get these weights at a younger age, but the flesh is not set so well and is not so fine in texture. However, the difference is so slight in a well fed specimens that only a connoiseur or expert of the first water can tell it. For market use the heavier types are to be recommended, as they make good killing weight at seven to nine weeks, while the smaller type of rabbit will take from ten to twelve weeks. For market breeding, where the pedigrees are not to be watched in the young, it will be well to run them in a large pen, about six by eight feet. Keep a permanent hay rack in one side, built to the floor, so that the youngster can reach it. This may hold twenty or thirty pounds of hay and should be kept full all the time. Have the hopper type of feed cans for grain, such as are used for chickens, to hold ten or twelve pounds of grain. Be sure the feeding part, where the rabbit feeds, is small enough so they cannot get into it with the whole body and foul it. Have just enough room at the feeding point of the apparatus to allow the head and mouth of RABBITS AND DOLLARS 43 the animal to get the feed. Feed dry grains only in these hoppers. See the section on "Feeds and Feeding" for the kinds of grain to use. The water also may be given in one of the stone crocks made and sold for the purpose. Some are so made to prevent bursting by freezing in winter. In running rabbits in this manner, there will have to be exer- cised greater care in seeing that they all keep healthy and that the pen is kept extremely clean. A disease once started in so large a bunch, may result in great loss before you discover it- Have a small spring scales, with a platform built on it, by cleat- ing a board so it will hold to the top of the scales. Weigh the rabbit before and after dressing, until your judgment of its exact dressing weight will be sound. To dress a rabbit procure a short piece of broom or hoe handle, eighteen inches long. Have this with a hole in the end, so you can hang it up handy. Grasp the rabbit firmly by the loose skin across the hips, and not by the legs, as generally directed. The grip across the hips will prevent the rabbit struggling almost entirely, and does not frighten the animal nearly so much. It also gives fully as good a chance to strike a true blow, and better, because the animal does not struggle so. See illustration. SHOWING CORRECT METHOD OF KILLING A RABBIT 44 RABBITS AND DOLL ARS DRESSING A RABBIT EACH person will probably develop the details of dressing a rabbit to suit their individual ideas, but a few good suggestions are offered here to give those a start who have not already worked out a better method. Before killing the rabbit have a stout loop of heavy binding cord hung in a beam in such a way that the bottom of the loop will be about as high as your chin. After killing the rabbit hang it in this slip-loop by a half hitch, by one of the hind legs. Cut off the head of the animal first, which should be done over a tub or an old bucket. Then cut away the skin around the hocks, or heel-joint, of the leg by which the rabbit is suspended. Pull down the hide at the crotch of the hind legs, cut off the suspending leg at the hock- joint. Take out the foot, which has been left suspended in the loop, and put in the other hind leg. Cut away the skin as before, and strip to the crotch. Now thrust the finger under the skin and lift it, cutting across the abdomen. Cut out the tail and the skin around it. Strip down the whole body hide, taking clear off, cutting the forelegs at the wrist-joint. If the hide is to be saved a straight line should be cut from hock to hock on the hind legs, instead of lifting the hide after stripping each leg, as above. The first method is a little quicker, and with some, easier. After the hide is well off, and any stray hairs have been re- moved, take a firm grip of the free hind leg, on the thigh, and split the pelvic bone, which will readily split at the center. Thrust in two fingers in the opening thus made and slit the rabbit down to a point below the diaphragm, or the first ribs. A little cutting will easily drop out the entrails. Cut the stomach loose from the liver, and leave the liver, the kidneys, and the heart in the rabbit. The heart will be found in the lung cavity, below the diaphragm, as the rabbit is hanging by the hind leg, upside down. The diaphragm should be split and the lungs removed. Plunge the rabbit immediately into a clean bucket or kettle of cold water and rinse thoroughly. Pour off this water and put the rabbit to soak in about two quarts of water, to which has been added a tablespoon full of salt, stirred in well. It should soak at least three hours before cooking, and longer will not hurt anything. RABBITS AND D O LL ARS 45 If you are to deliver the rabbit to a customer, you should tie the hind legs together, before putting it to soak, and then tie them to the neck, thrusting the front legs between the hind legs. This makes a nice square package and draws the muscles of the back taut, giving a waxy white appearance to them after soaking. Turn the rabbit occasionally, so that it lies in free water, and weight it down with a plate. Before wrapping the rabbit for delivery, put it on a dry plate to drain. Then weigh it. It will be found that the soaking has in- creased the weight twenty to thirty per cent, according to the length of time it was soaked, and has increased the delicacy of the flavor. You may allow for this, if you wish, in selling the rabbit. To im- prove the flavor and delicacy of the rabbit by the addition of water, however, is part of the art of fine dressing, and is no more a matter of conscience in the sale of the rabbit, than is the water in kraut, or the water in a can of peas or tomatoes, or other canned fruit. Thus you may satisfy your conscience as to the sale of the rabbit, allowing or disallowing the added weight as you see fit. The usual price of rabbit meat, dressed as above, will be about five cents per pound more than that of a nice veal roast. The cost of raising this meat will be twelve cents per pound, with hay at twenty to thirty dollars per ton, and rolled barley or grain at three dollars per hundred. This is an estimate based on the killing of the stock at ten weeks of age, at which time they should dress a full two pounds, if well cared for. WRAPPING THE MEAT Good heavy wax paper may be had at the paper houses for a reasonable sum, and this makes the ideal first wrapping. Heavy butcher's wrapping paper may be used for the outside, with a neat stamp or printing on it, telling of your business. These two wrap- pers and the string, including the printing, should not cost over four cents per rabbit or package total. 46 RABBITS AND DOLLARS RABBITRY MANAGEMENT AND EFFICIENT BUSINESS METHODS A GREAT many people raise rabbits and pet stock simply for the love of them, and entirely as a hobby. This is well, and it is this branch that will always have a market for the fancy types at fair prices. But even as a hobby, one like to know that it pays its own way, and is not entirely a dead drag upon one's re- sources, however well off they may be. The rabbit and small stock business may be made a very profit- able venture, even as a hobby. When a person makes a hobby of anything, they are very liable to try to produce the best in their line, and it takes very little advertising to dispose of all you have of the best in anything. People soon find out you have it, and will pay well for it. As a business venture, however, many people will depend upon the rabbit and small stock industries, and some guidance is needed along these lines to prevent undue waste of money in the different branches of the business. We will now consider the commercial end of the industry. Read the forepart of this book carefully, and other good rabbit books as well, BEFORE you venture out upon the sea of business. The public is a funny fellow, but you will find him a very good fellow if you start off on the right foot. It must be borne in mind that the public is YOU. Do with the public exactly as you would like to have them do with you. This is an old rule that is coming more and more into practice among smart business men. Do not try to impress the public with the bigness of your plant, so much as with the value of your stock, or the excellence of your service. Endeavor always to get the "other fellow's" viewpoint, by figuring exactly what would please you best. Do not try to figure what would impress you most, or astonish you most, but what would give you the most lasting impression of pleasure, if YOU were the customer. RABBITS AND DOLLARS 47 ADVERTISING ADVERTISE just according to your plant. If you have a small plant, a few head of stock, just run small ads in the leading petstock or rabbit magazines, and maybe in your local paper. Remember the importance of circulation to get results. Don't overlook this. Each ad should be "keyed" so that you may know which is pull- ing. This may be done by inserting a clause in your address, such as Div. B, or Dept. 7. 'If you advertise, say, in the Outdoor Enter- prises, the words Div. B, on your ad as part of your address, will cause the writer of the inquiry to include it on his envelope, thus telling you where he saw the ad. For keeping an account of what ads are pulling, the following simple form will be found useful and may be ruled out at home : Name of Magazine Circ- ulation Ad Key : In ". 1 quiries Orders Amts. Per cent Ord to Inq Orders per 1,000 Circulation! 1 A liberal education may be had in advertising by watching the big ads used by the larger firms, such as auto companies, gum man- ufacturers, flour makers, etc. But it should be borne in mind that simplicity is the keynote of all the best advertising, that "he who runs may read." Use the big ads as a model for your smaller ads, only to the extent that they fit your case. In other words, absorb the idea and adapt it to your needs. More particularly, however, pay close atten- tion to the advertising of the men who are doing the best in your line, small stock raising. Emphasize some one feature of your ad with considerable regu- larity, until you find some other feature that will do better. To give one example, note the difference in the writing of the following ad : Belgian Hares- For fine stock, go to the John Brown Rabbitry, Brownville. This does not impress you' much, and would not be noticed, if you were not already reading this page. Now see this one, which would cost but very little more and do many times the work: 48 RABBITS AND DOLLARS BELGIAN HARES For FINE Stock Go to the JOHN BROWN RABBITRY Brownville, Colo. How much more quickly that took your eye, and we believe you will have noticed that ad before you started to read the page it is printed on. Considerable use may be made of billboards for local work, par- ticularly if one is running a store such as that described a little later in this work. But it will be found to be very costly in most cases. Should one be handy with a brush, or have a friend that is, one may go to real estate men and offer to keep up the real estate signs for half the space on them. Some real estate men, especially small owners of properties, who have fairly large signs on their places. If these signs seem to be a little worn or old, go to the owner with a proposition such as we have mentioned, to paint the sign up again and put it in good shape if the owner will let you have part of the space on it, say a third or so. It is good practice locally, to have signs all around your place, beginning at about one or two squares away, signs that point to your place in some suggestive manner. Let the wording be as simple as possible and few in number. The signs should be placed near street car lines, on main lines of traffic, auto roads, etc. Get permission from the owner of the land you place your signs on, if you find it necessary to go on private property, but for the most part signs in public places will not be dis- turbed. For the most part it will be found that white letters on a black or dark blue ground will be seen fartherest and read easier. A simple drawing of a rabbit will be found to be an eye-catcher. STATIONERY One of the first impressions the customer gets of the rabbit keeper is that of his stationery. It is like a suit of clothes, it makes the first impressions on the customer's mind, good or bad. Let the impression be good, then, by having a well set up, carefully printed set of stationery that you need not be ashamed of. Avoid "cheap" printing, done in a sloveilly manner. See that your printing is clear and free from smudges, that it is firm and well set up, as well as evenly printed in a nice clean impression. Study the samples of let- RABBITS AND DO LL ARS 49 terheads and envelopes the printer has on hand, and select the best types for yours. Do not attempt too elaborate a letter head at first, for you will always find that you will want to make changes, after you have used your letterheads a while. For the same reason you should not order more than about one thousand of each, letterheads, mailing envelopes at one time at first. Cuts, or pictures, will be found to be a considerable attraction to both your stationery and your advertising. There is nothing that will impress the public with a permanent idea of your business so much as a standardized picture of one of your fine stock, or your rabbitry, or even of yourself. The principal stationery needed in the average small business in rabbits, will be letterheads, mailing envelopes, return envelopes, which are very important, blotters of envelope size, something the customer will likely keep and remember you the better; and pedi- grees. All these pieces should be of one kind and color of paper, and using as much as possible the same general idea in cuts and style of type. The return envelope, while using the same style of type or cuts, may be more impressive if printed in a bright red ink. The reason of this is a psychological one. The customer gets the stationery all done in a sedate or modest color, and then comes across this glaring red envelope. The impression on his mind is that something should be done about it. He knows what you want done, you want an order, and the impression is borne in upon his subconscious mind that you are the man who should have that order, because you are businesslike and so well prepared to take care of it. If he lays the envelope aside, he will still be impressed with that bright red color, and if there is any order to be had you will be nearly sure to get it. It has been proved even after over a year had elapsed. In the pedigrees, it is much better to have your own, fully stan- dardized, than to have just the regular books of blanks, that have no individuality. The particular pedigree, made up on your own forms will impress the customer as a large business house. HANDLING INQUIRIES AND ANSWERS Some very successful rabbit breeders go so far as to advertise a complete list of the stock on hand, and the prices, and then to state that they will answer no letters that do not contain a check or money order. 50 RABBITS AND DOLLARS This is, however, only practical to those who have considerable capital and an excellent reputation for fine stock, won by honest competition in the shows. Such men are entitled to freedom from the many useless letters of the "curiosity seekers," that abound in any business. Promptness in answering inquiries is one asset that must not be overlooked. Always answer all of today's mail today. This is the MOST important thing in a mail order business, the principle of promptness. Equal to promptness, or even exceeding we should say in a sense, is the principle of truth. Make that your one guiding star, for it is the only winning road. Not only is this so from a moral standpoint, but psychology teaches that we impress those to whom we are writing BEFORE the letter reaches them. Those who are receptive to psychic influences, and nearly everyone is, will get the impression of the strength of your letters and your advertisements, knowing instinctively whether they are truthful or not. This is coming more and more to be the case, as people get informed along these lines and develop the latent powers of psychic influence in the individual mind. Truth is a straight road, and MUST lead to your ultimate object, success. As has been pointed out in some of our better magazines, the word "guarantee" is much misused. In the first place a guarantee can only be applied to a second person and not to one's own self or goods. You may undertake to guarantee another's performance at a certain date or place, as in contracting for an actor's appearance, but you may NOT, according to the best English language, guarantee YOUR stock to be right. Warrant is a better word- A good ad line is to say, in each ad for instance, as a trade statement that will impress the public, "Each Rabbit Warranted," or "Our Reputation is YOUR Warranty." As your business grows you will need to pay more and more at- tention to these details, although one may get by for a while as a small business without apparently paying much attention to the prin- ciples here set forth. CARRIERS AND SHIPPING CRATES The packages and boxes used in a business are a large index to the average person, of the standing of the firm. Note the immense business done by the large biscuit companies, principally on the strength of their packages, which they advertise to be "air-tight, RABBITS AND DOLLARS 51 water-tight, sealed, etc." This makes an ideal package for them and their business. The same idea will apply to the rabbit fancier, and while the crate or shipping box may be fairly cheap and inexpensive, it should be neat and individual to the shipper. That is, it is not good policy to use grocery boxes and other people's cast-off packages, unless they are painted and labeled for the present shipper. First impressions, as has been said, are important, and the average person receiving a crate of rabbits makes first judgment on the kind and style of package. REPEAT ORDERS The thing most sought after in- the large business concerns of the country, is repeat orders- Not only from the right principle of pleasing the customer, but from the fact that repeat orders are cheaper. There is less overhead, or office, expenses, there is less time and stationery wasted in getting them and each repeat order is a distinct advertisement, far more valuable than any that can be written in paid copy. The customer is more willing to talk about your rabbits after he has ordered the second or third time than he was at first. By that time he gets to saying that he "always" orders from Brown, or whoever the satisfying breeder may be. So from the first, you should be willing even to take some loss, in order to please the customer. And if you ARE going to stand any loss, do so very promptly and without argument. You can be careful NEXT time in dealing with the customer, but THIS time is the time to make that impression of the "square deal." Don't argue. If the customer was wrong and beat you a little, the matter will lie upon his conscience, so that even if he doesn't make it up to you in money, his conscience will drive him to tell others what a square person you are, and thus help your trade more than the actual loss you were put to- Then, too, there are no "hangovers" on your own conscience to thresh out and take your time away from productive thinking on your business. If you are square four ways, and know it, you can drive ahead with a great deal more force than the person that has to stop and tell himself that it was "all right anyway. It wasn't MY fault," with the slight doubt in mind that perhaps it WAS his fault, just a little. 52 RABBITS AND D OLL ARS FILING RECORDS A smaii box letter file, alphabetically indexed, is an absolute necessity to start with, and will usually repay its small cost of fifty cents or so, in a short time. A little later a regular box file should be had as soon as the business is large enough to warrant it. This will keep your letters all straight and in their order, so that you can always know just what was said. When a person purchases from you, you should have a cheap manila folder, with his name and address at the top, and file all the customers' letters in that one. Manila folders with the letters and the word Misc., or miscellaneous, at the top will do for the inquirers who do not order. When one sends in his order, get out the letter — miscellaneous file for his initial and get out of it all his past cor- respondence, filing it in a new file with his name on it, thus assem- bling all that customer's mail for convenience. For instance, you get an inquiry from Mr. R. M. Mills. You answer it. If you have no typewriter, which may now be had for $3.00 the month, on easy payments, you must jot down on the back of his letter the principal things you said, the prices quoted, the terms of shipment, such as C. O. D., express collect, or express pre- paid, as the case may be. This first inquiry should now be filed under "M Misc., M-" A few weeks later Mr. Mills orders a rabbit from you. Look in M Misc., and get out his inquiry, as well as all other letters he may have written you and your copies of what you wrote him. The ad- vantage of the typewriter is just here, in that you may have carbon copies of all you write, and thus be secure and certain in what you quoted or said. File Mr. Mills' correspondence, now that he is a customer, in a separate file, along the top flap of which you have written, "Mills, R. M., Seneca Falls, N. Y." This folder should then be inserted in your file under M. This is a simple method of filing that any one may follow and saves much time and labor. HUTCH CARDS A simple form of hutch card is here shown, to be kept in a tin pocket on the hutch door or front. These cards should be filed in the file that will be made for the pedigrees, mentioned later, under the name of the rabbit to whom they apply. RABBITS AND DOLLARS Pedigree. Name Sire Dame Born Price Due Amt. From Face Side. f Sire Sire I Dame Sire Sire. I Dam< 53 ("Sire . [Dame fSire . J i Dame fSire . [Dame fSire.. [Dame Reverse Side. This is a very complete and convenient record, and may be printed cheaply. The cards may be of light board and made to fit in a tin pocket that can be made at home, as in the section under "Rab- bitry Management." By making two more of the above kind of cards for each one, printed on a thin paper one will have the triplicates of the pedigrees all in one form, thus making a convenient method of filing and re- ducing the number of writings necessary in keeping records of the stock. Some kind of record MUST be kept if one is to be secure in the pedigrees and honest in his dealings. This method also does away with marking the rabbits separately to a large extent. PEDIGREES The principal value of a pedigree lies in its value to the breeder. In order to follow a set line of breeding, and in order to know which strain is the most productive of good stock, it is necessary to have a record of the parentage. For this reason pedigrees ought to be com- plete, containing the show winnings of the specimens in the ancestry of the rabbit pedigreed, and any exceptional weights that were made, in the case of the heavier breeds. A good form of pedigree is here shown, although many forms are easily procured. Where a typewriter is used, a piece of blank paper can be used to get the copy by carbon, or two pieces used where triplicates are desired, as explained later. 54 RABBITS AND DOLLARS AT THE TOP OF THE PEDIGREE HAVE YOUR RABBITRY STANDARD CUT Which Helps to Make a More Impressive Document Pedigree of Thoroughbred Born Sold to Address Note — All future sales of this animal should be noted on the reverse of this pedigree. Remarks (Such as registry, special winnings, etc.) Sire. f Sire.