J. JACKSON, 
 
 Printer and Bookbinder, 
 
 BARTON. 
 
 
 Class. 
 
 Ronk 
 
 
THE 
 
 SCARBOROUGH 
 GUIDE, 
 

Scale 
 
 IsMiIes 
 
 
 JT.Cav^^Xoniyr 
 
THE 
 
 SCARBOROUGH 
 GUIDE. 
 
 ■ 
 
 *—Inquirat denique ah AngHs de Fontibus istis famigeratis 
 apud Epsom, Tunbrdge, Barnet, Knaresborough, et de 
 cnrationibus ibidem prcestitis, dum nosier Fons apud Siar- 
 Borough non modo non illis cedere, sed et ip^is ca?terisque 
 omnibus Europceis Fontibus palmam longe pixnpuisse vide- 
 fur. 
 
 Felix, qui potuit boni 
 
 Fontem visere lucid um Boeth. 
 
 (Wittie, Fons Scarb.) 
 
 g*arbarawgfp 
 
 PRINTED AND SOLD BY THOMAS COULTAS. 
 
 Sold also by 
 
 Lacktnoton, Allev, & Co Finsburv-Square, London \ 
 
 Todds and Wolstenholme, York; Peck, Hull; Ron 
 
 gers, and Clarke and Medd, Whitby, 
 
 * 1815, 
 
\fcnoi 
 
 ■ * • » • 
 
TO 
 THE REV. FRANCIS WRANGHAM, A. M. F. R. S. 
 
 AND 
 VICAR OF HUNMAKBY. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 To your kind superintendence in the 
 compilation, this small volume is indebted for 
 whatever merit it may possess. 
 
 Under the sanction of your patronage, therefore, 
 it is ushered into the world, with a lively hope of 
 success. 
 
 This little tribute of gratitude is justly due for 
 numerous favours conferred upon, 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Your most obedient, 
 
 and faithful servant, 
 
 THOMAS COULTAS. 
 
 Scarborough, June 30, 1S15. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 From the usual fluctuation of circumstances 
 connected with a flourishing Watering-place, a 
 Ns-tf Guide is occasionally rendered necessary* 
 
 The following pages will, it is trusted, be found 
 to comprehend every information, not only upon 
 subjects which interest the Antiquarian or the 
 Naturalist, but also upon such as respect the amuse- 
 ments and the comfort of the gay and the invalid. 
 Considerable attention, likewise, has been employed 
 in combining the more important traits of local 
 history. 
 
 With such improvements, the Publisher hopes 
 he is not too presumptuous in anticipating for it 
 a kind reception on the part of those, for whose 
 use U has been principally drawn up s 
 

SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 ) 
 
 jL HE unnumbered bathing-places, which now 
 attract and divide the public favour, are of a date 
 altogether modern, when compared with the well- 
 founded reputation of Scarborough, and it's Spaw. 
 
 This place was a favourite resort for the opulent, 
 the gay, and the infirm, while the refinements of 
 civilisation were yet in a very early stage of their 
 progression in Great Britain : and long before 
 Dr. Russel plunged a single patient in the sea at 
 Brighthelmstone, Scarborough had been celebrated 
 for it's waters, it's air, it's situation, and it's 
 cures. 
 
 B 
 
Zfous* 
 
 .Vrit's/toom 
 TJbeaXre 
 
 ' r r We Mojo/ij /7osfae 
 
 /<> ( r //s7ow J/ows 
 // 7,'ao/ 
 72 OM />'<>/ 
 
 t5 Maw iter 
 
 76 NortAJiaM:, 
 
 // Soul/? Steel Jiattery 
 
 /# Crofi 
 
 79 7bum JZaZl 
 
 2 oJZoman'C2f/Sr*>Zbr (7bop>e/ 
 
 27 Z einca&lrvan a¥c<&o&7- 
 
8 KOTJTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 From the metropolis, and central or southern 
 parts of the kingdom, the most direct route t& 
 Scarborough lies through York, or Hull, 
 
 ROUTE 
 To SCARBOROUGH, through HULL, 
 
 MILBS. 
 
 From Lincoln to Spital, . * 12 
 
 Redbourne 6| t 
 
 Glamford Bridge, (vulg. Brigg) 5g 
 
 Elsham, 4 
 
 Barton Water-side, 8 
 
 Across the Humber to Hull, 7 
 
 Newlind, 9 
 
 Beverley, ? 
 
 Leconfield 2J 
 
 Scorborough, 1 ^ 
 
 Beswick, 2£ 
 
 Watton, 1£ 
 
 Driffield, 5£ 
 
 Ganton-Dale, 12 
 
 Seamer, 7 
 
 Scarborough, 4 
 
 The cathedral * at Lincoln, beside it's venerable 
 outward appearance, has many claims to notice. 
 It's extent, though exceeded in dimension by only 
 
 * It may not be out of place here to remark, that a visit 
 to Scarborough from the central or southern parts of Eng- 
 land affords an easy opportunity of visiting three gotbic 
 edifices, of the first character for grandeur and beauty — 
 Lincoln cathedral, St. John's of Beverley, and York minster. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 9 
 
 four in the kingdom, displays less dignity and 
 grace, than it's judicious internal proportions. 
 These, with respect to height and breadth, are sin- 
 gularly harmonious ; and recal, as in some degree 
 applicable, Mr. Addison's descriptive sketch of 
 the architecture of St. Peter's at Rome: 
 
 " St. Peter's seldom answers expectation at first 
 entering it, but enlarges itself on all sides insen- 
 sibly, and mends upon the eye every moment. 
 The proportions are so very well observed, that 
 nothing appears to an advantage, or distinguishes 
 itself above the rest. It seems neither extremely 
 bigh, nor long, nor broad, because it is all of 
 them in a just equality '. '? 
 
 From Barton, the oblique passage across the 
 Humber to Hull is frequently run in half an hour. 
 The time for sailing depends on the age of the moon, 
 and is weekly advertised in the Hull Papers: the 
 ferry-boats are strong, and the pilots and men are 
 well acquainted with the river. Strangers, there- 
 fore, may fearlessly enjoy the scenery of the 
 Humber. A delightful sheet of water, as large as 
 many of the Westmoreland lakes ; great numbers 
 of vessels sailing to one or other of the twelve 
 
10 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 branches of the river, and carrying their treasures 
 into five neighbouring counties; country-houses 
 and villages, rising on the side of the Yorkshire 
 hills; with numerous vessels usually riding at 
 anchor before the garrison, or coasting along the 
 shore, will sufficiently employ the attention of a 
 stranger till he is landed at Hull, 
 
 Of this flourishing emporium of commerce some 
 account will be endured, perhaps welcomed by the 
 reader. It's history briefly states, that u in the 
 year 1312, being the 5th of Edward If, the large 
 and stately church of Holy-Trinity, a magnificent 
 and beautiful structure, was erected. The King, 
 then at York, contributed liberally toward the 
 expense of it. The merchants and tradesmen in 
 the town, and the principal gentlemen of the neigh- 
 bouring country, supplied the rest. It's east end 
 and steeple were then completed." But though 
 it's uniform lightness and consistency of stile, 
 might afford good grounds for supposing it built 
 wholly by the same architect, it is understood that 
 " the west end, where divine service is now 
 performed, was erected in the reign of Henry VH, 
 about one hundred and eighty years afterward." 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 11 
 
 The town, in general, is close-built and populous; 
 the streets being so intersected with alleys, that 
 there is no vacant ground behind the streets, and 
 but few yards behind the houses. The new streets, 
 however, on the Dock-side remind the traveller of 
 the best parts of the English capital. 
 
 Few places, indeed, in Great-Britain have ex- 
 perienced such a rapid improvement. Whether 
 we consider the numerous drainages in the neigh- 
 bourhood or the alterations made in the town itself, 
 the extension of it's buildings or the advance of 
 it's population, the variety of new canals, the 
 accession of shipping, the confluence of opulent 
 families, or the rise of landed property, we shall be 
 equally surprised. The tonnage of Hull is now 
 only inferior to that of London, Liverpool, and 
 Bristol: it's customs, only to the customs paid 
 by the two former. In the time of Edward IV, 
 it had fewer ships than the smallest maritime 
 towns, and employed scarcely any fishing vessels : 
 at present, it sends to Greenland one third of the 
 number of ships sent by London, and exclusively 
 of that port, more than all the rest of England. 
 The Hans-Towns in Germany, and subsequently the 
 
12 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Dutch, so long the carriers of Europe, supplied 
 this port with British articles manufactured 
 abroad: at present, Hull imports German and 
 Russian articles, and re-exports them into those 
 very countries, after they have undergone the 
 processes of English art. Such is the versatility 
 of commerce ! The HigluStreet, formerly a line 
 of poor dwelling-houses or the huts of fishermen, is 
 now a long street of large and commodious ware- 
 houses, several of tbem insured to the aggregate 
 amount of nearly a quarter of a million. 
 
 In 1774 and the three following years, after 
 levelling the walls and ramparts near the river 
 Hull, a dock was formed in width 255 feet, in 
 length 2100, and in depth 22, and capable of con- 
 taining 130 ships of 300 tons burthen. A second 
 has recently been added; and the extension of 
 commerce and the diffusion of wealth may pro- 
 bably in process of time demand and create a 
 third, uniting it's two predecessors. 
 
 "The first great encreasing of the towne (says 
 Leland) was by passing for fisch into Iseland; from 
 whens they had the hole trade of stoke-fisch into 
 
&OUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 13 
 
 England, and partly other fisch. In Richard lid 
 dayes, the towne waxed very rich ; and Michael de 
 la Pole, merchauntof Hulle, and prentyce (as sum 
 say) to one Rotenhering of the sara towne, cam 
 into high favour for wit,actyvite, and riches, that 
 he was made Count of Southfolk; wherupon he got 
 of King Richard the lid many graunts and privi- 
 leges to the town . And yn his tyme the towne was 
 wonderfully augmentid yn building, and was en- 
 closid with ditches and the waul begon, andyn 
 continuance endid and made all of bricke, as most 
 part of the houses of the towne at that tyme was. 
 At such tyme as al the trade of stoke-fisch for 
 England came from Iseland, because the burden 
 of stoke-fisch was light, the shippes were balissid 
 with great coble-stone brought out of Iseland, 
 the which in continuance pavid al the towne 
 of Kingestone (Hull) throughout." 
 
 A good and level road conducts the traveller to 
 Beverley, through nine miles of the country once 
 little better than a swamp, and distinguished chiefly 
 ns the haunt of beavers. A small observatory, or 
 rather prospect-tower, at Newland two miles from 
 Hull leads the view toward Cottingham ? where a 
 
14 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 good church still remains, and where once Baynard^ 
 Castle stood. Henry VIII, who often visited and 
 occasionally resided in Hull, hearing that Lord 
 Wake, who then possessed this property, was 
 married to an accomplished and beautiful lady, 
 fixed a day for honouring them with his company. 
 His Lordship however, less ambitious of the honour, 
 than alarmed for the too probable consequencp of 
 such a compliment, on the eve of the royal visit 
 set fire to his Castle, and burned it to the ground ! 
 
 The moat and ramparts of earth, now it's only 
 remains, are appropriated to a market-garden; 
 several of which, with a number of small villas 
 for the inhabitants of Hull, enliven the precincts 
 of this agreeable village. 
 
 Long before the stranger enters the town of 
 Beverley, it's noble minster, in various points of 
 view, meets and detains his eye: on entering the 
 town, he is struck with a noble view of it's east 
 end and double cross aisles, * which irresistibly 
 invite to a nearer inspection. 
 
 * What presents itself, on entering Beverley, of the min- 
 ster's eastern part, with the transept or north and south cross 
 
BOUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. IS 
 
 Beverley was some time called Deir Wold, or 'the 
 wood of the Deirans;' and subsequently Beverlac, 
 *the place or lake of beavers,' an animal then 
 abounding throughout it's neighbourhood. " A 
 benedictine monastery was here founded and 
 endowed by John, fifth Archbishop of York, 
 commonly called St John of Beverley. It was 
 destroyed by the Danes, A. D. 860. September 
 6, 1088, it was totally consumed by an accidental 
 fire. It's dissolution happened in the first year of 
 Edward VI, upon the authority of an act of parlia- 
 ment, 26th Henry VIIL The present beautiful 
 fabric, though much decayed, is what was left at 
 .the dissolution of the monastery, and it's dimensions 
 are as follow : 
 
 Feet. 1 nches. 
 
 n Length from east to west 334 4 
 
 Breadth of nef, and side aisles 64 3 
 
 Length of the great cross aules 16T 6 
 
 Height of the nef, from the pavement J fi7 « 
 to the under side of the vaulted roof J 
 
 Height of the side aisles 33 
 
 Height of the two west towers 200 
 
 aisles, is (exclusive!}- of some few subsequent additions) a 
 fine specimen of the best Norman Gothic. St. Mary's, erected 
 when the art had nearly reached it's most perfect state (in 
 the time of Henry VI.) displays a splendid view of well- 
 $hii_shed British improvement of Saracenic building. 
 
16 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 "The fabric is of different work, and neither 
 built all at one time, nor in the same stile ; but the 
 whole is of an admirable taste and execution, espe— 
 dally the west front, which is both grand, durable, 
 and beautiful." 
 
 St. John of Beverley, of a Saxon family of re- 
 spectability, settled at Harpham about fourteen 
 miles from Beverley, was a personage of extraor- 
 dinary acquirements and great sanctity. He was 
 at first educated under that celebrated nursing- 
 mother of Christianity in England, St. Hilda, abbess 
 of Whitby. Theodore, archbishopof Canterbury, 
 afterward distinguished him by his special patron- 
 age ; and after due preparation removed him at 
 length to Oxford, where he became a doctor in 
 divinity. Retiring thence, he for some time led 
 the life of an hermit at Harnesleigh, i. e. 'the 
 mountain of the Eagle/ on the banks of the river 
 /Tyne near Hexham. From this secluded situation, 
 he was first raised to the bishopric of Hexham 
 (then Halgulstad) by his archiepiscopal tutor and 
 friend; and eventually through the same unvaried 
 kindness recommended and promoted to the see of 
 York. In conformity with tire superstition of the 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 17 
 
 times, he devoted himself to his tutelary saint, 
 John the Evangelist ; to whose honour he erected 
 this distinguished church, monastery, and college, 
 about A. D. 704. * 
 
 A church is recorded (with what authenticity, 
 we do not pretend to decide) to have been built on 
 the site where Beverley now stands, in the days of 
 Lucius the first christian King of Britain, about 
 the year 126; and destroyed, A. D. 450, by 
 Hengist and his pagan followers. It was subse- 
 quently restored by Archbishop John, who added 
 to it a monastery of Benedictines; rebuilding the 
 choir nnew, and establishing a college of seven 
 secular canons and seven clerks, to whom he assign- 
 ed the nave of the minster, wherein they might 
 officiate independently of the monks. On the south 
 side of the western end, he dedicated an oratory to 
 St. Martin, and added to it a society of religious 
 women or nuns. This illustrious prelate, after 
 having maintained his divinity upward of thirty- 
 three years with the greatest respectability, 
 resigned it with the approbation of his clergy to his 
 faithful chaplain and disciple Wilfred, and passed 
 * (According to gome, 708.) 
 
IS BOUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 the remainder of his days in the college which he 
 had built and endowed for secular priests at Bev- 
 erley. There he died A. D. 721, and was buried 
 Jn the church-porch. 
 
 "The towne of Beverle (says Leland in his 
 Itinerary) is large, and wellebuildid of zcood; but 
 the fairest part of it is by north, and there is the 
 market kept. There was much good cloth made 
 at Beverle, but that is no we much decayid. The* 
 collegiate chirch of St. John, of a fair and uniform 
 making, wherein beside the tumbes of sainctes be 
 large tumbes, most notable in the north side the 
 quire; yn one of them, with a chapel archid over 
 it, is buried Percy Erl of Northumberland, and his 
 son, father to the late Erl. In another, is buried 
 Eleanor wife to one of the Lord Percys ; and yn 
 an other, of Q white alabmter y Idonea Lady Percy, 
 wife to one of the Lord Percys. Under Eleanor's 
 tumbe is buried one of the Percys, a preste. 1 * 
 
 The traveller will be surprised to find, so near 
 to Hull, a town so extensive as Beverley. It is 
 more than a mile in length: it's principal street is 
 spacious, and the houses are remarkable cleanly m 
 
STOUTS TO SCARBOROUGH. \$ 
 
 {heir appearance. It is rather a resort for genteel 
 families, however, than a place of trade. The 
 only traffic at present carried on is in corn and 
 coals, articles conveyed upon the river Hull, and 
 a navigable canal called Beverley Beck. Every 
 other line of business has sunk under the over- 
 whelming preponderance of Hull : and even if st 
 great fair of twenty days, which thirty years ago 
 was attended by numerous tradesmen from the me- 
 tropolis, in a lane (thence called Londoner-Street) 
 has gradually been superseded. Trade, generally, 
 wears itself an easy channel. In barbarous coun- 
 tries alone, where little intercourse subsists between 
 the natives and foreign nations, and in those 
 counties of England, where inns and high roads 
 are indifferent, you meet with great fairs. In 
 Arabia, Russia, and Tartary caravans travel at 
 stated times, and in large numbers, in quest of the 
 necessaries of life. In the rude'and early ages, we 
 read of the travelling merchants of Dedan : "we 
 looked, and behold, companies of Ishmaelites 
 with their camels, bearing spicery, balm, and 
 myrrh, going to carry it down to Egypt." At 
 Brough-Hill Fair, in Westmoreland, Irish and 
 Scotch tradesmen arrive from a great distance, to 
 exchange their horses, cloths, and-cattle for Englisb 
 
20 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 commodities. In the feudal times,? the vassals of 
 the English Barons were only permitted to assem- 
 ble a few times in a year (in general, on a Saint's 
 day) around the walls of the castle, and purchase 
 articles brought on pack-horses by the itinerant 
 merchants of those days. Hence, these castles be- 
 came the emporium of the neighbouring country; 
 and villages were built, and large fairs held, in their 
 vicinity. But good roads and inland navigation, 
 iri process of time, introduced more convenient 
 raddes of supply. 
 
 What Leland, early in the time of Henry VIII, 
 observed at Leconfield, he describes as follows : 
 u Leckinfield is a large house, and stondish within 
 a great mote, yn one very spacious courte; 3 parts 
 of the house, saving the meane gate that is made of 
 bricke, is al of tymbre. The 4 parte is fair, made 
 of stone, and sum bricke. I saw in a little study- 
 ing chaumber there, callid Paradice, the genealogie 
 of the Percys. The park thereby is very fair and 
 large, and meatly welle woddid. Ther is a fair 
 toure of bricke, for a logge yn the park. " * 
 
 * One can hardly read the following ancient bill of fare, 
 for the breakfast of a noble Earl and Countess, without a 
 smile : u First, for my Lord and Lady, a loaf of bread on 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 21 
 
 A, D. 1541, Henry VIH. on his progress to 
 Hull, lodged at ''Leckonfield castle.' 
 
 The following moral inscriptions, in the cham- 
 bers of this noble mansion, were chiefly collected 
 by Henry Algernon Percy, fifth Earl of Northum- 
 berland, who about A. D. 1520 erected the 
 celebrated monument in Beverley minster. 
 
 u In the side of the garet of the gardynge^ in 
 Lcckengjield. 
 
 Punish moderatly, and discreetly correct 
 
 As well to mercy as to justice havynga respect; 
 
 trenchers; two manchets of the finest meal, weighing each 
 six ounces; a quart of beer; a quart of wine; two pieces 
 of salt fish ; six bacoucd (i. e. smoked) herrings ; four white 
 herrings; or a dish of sproiis,'' (i. e. sprats.) This was 
 during « the holy fast of Lent.' " On flesh- days, the bread 
 as before; a quart of beer; a quart of wine; half a chine 
 of mutton, or a piece of beef boiled " This about the year 
 1430 (as appears from the house-book) was in useat Leeon- 
 field. iVor was the general hour for meals among persons 
 of condition, at that period, less remarkable They break- 
 fasted at seven, dined at ten, and supped at four: after 
 which, between eight and nine o'clock in the evening, they 
 had their 'liveries' — that is to say, "for my Lord and 
 I«ady, biead, as at breakfast; a gallon of beer, and a quart 
 of wine" (the wine hot, and mixed with spices) f soon after 
 which they went to bed ! 
 
<@2 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 So shall ye have meryte for the punishment, 
 And cause the offender to be sorry and penitent. 
 If ye be moved with anger, or hastyness 
 Pause in your mind, and your ire repress 
 Defer vengeance unto your anger assuaged be, 
 So shall ye mynyster justice_, and do dewe equyte j 
 
 Proverbis in the roof of my Lordis library ^ at 
 Leckengfield. 
 
 To every tale give thou no credens 
 Prove the cause, or thou give sentens 
 Agayn the right make no dytfens, 
 So hast thou a clene consciens. 
 
 Proverbis of the garet over the bayne, af 
 
 Leckengfield. 
 
 (A supposed dialogue) 
 
 THE PART SENSATYVE. 
 
 Thesermountynge pleasure who can express, 
 Which is in armony of song and the sweetnes; 
 All pensyvence it puttith away, 
 And with myrthe and solas dryvethe furth the day. 
 
 THE PART INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 On suche momentary pleasure yf thon sett thy mynde 
 The joy that is everlasting thou may never finde ; 
 Joy here, and in hevynthou canst not optayne* 
 Vamtss vanilatum, all that is but vayne. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 23 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 Ofallerthly snbstance better is none 
 
 Than sylver, golde, and precious stone ; 
 
 For he that hathe haboundance of suche treasure, 
 
 In this worlde can want non of his pleasure. 
 
 INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 Vanitas vanitatum, beholde and see, 
 
 In worldly gyftis is mutabilite : 
 
 Gyftis of grace gett the, 
 
 For they be of suerte. 
 
 Earthly things be fletynge aud vanitej 
 
 And as transitory they passe, 
 
 Vanitas vanitatum, et omnia vanitas. 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 To walke in gardyngg all garnyshede with floures, 
 What pleasure it is by cause of the swete odoures 5 
 And in the arburis to here the byrdis synge, 
 Whiche to mans hart grete comfort doth bryngel 
 
 INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 For thesoule thou shaltfyned more quyetness 
 Of repentance, to walke in the wilderness 
 Among thorns of adversite: yf thou take payne 
 To sweet flowris of paciens thou maist attayne^ 
 Vanitas vanitalum, all other is butvayne. 
 
24 HOUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 God and nature to me most frendly be, * 
 
 For right gracius yshers * they have sent me, 
 Whiche ar inclynede to vertu and grace ; 
 Nedis must grete comfort my heart embrace. 
 
 INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 If such gracis of God towarde the rebownde, 
 To his bounteus g:oodnes thou art the more bounde ; 
 Yet set not in them to much thyne afFeccion, 
 For God may take them away for thy correcclon. 
 Corporal lyf here is not certayne ; 
 Vanitas vanitatum, all that is but vayne # 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 My ship is fraught with marchandyse 
 Of substantial riches, and great price ; 
 When it is arrived, yf I do my dever * 
 Doubtless I am made a man for evyr. 
 
 INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 If fortune be favourable extoll not thy mynde, 
 A sodeyne pyrry, or a great blast of wynde 
 By myschaunce may all confounde : 
 Where is thy goode, when thy ship is drowned } 
 It bootis not afterwarde to complayne, 
 Vanitas vanitaium, all that is but vayne. 
 
 * Issue, or children. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 26 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 1 floure in youthe, delight, and pleasure: 
 To feed all my fantasys I want no treasure 5 
 I synge and daunee, I revell and play, 
 I am so lovede, ladyes I need not to pray. 
 
 INTELLECTYVE. 
 
 Buche corporal pleasure is but momentary, 
 
 Fastynge and pTayer for thy soule more necessary ; 
 
 All worldely pleasures vanyshethe away, 
 
 To day a man in golde, to morrow closyde in clay ! 
 
 Repress vice, let vertu obtayne ; 
 
 Manilas vanitatum > all that is but vayne. 
 
 SENSATYVE. 
 
 So great is my pusiance,so much is my myght, 
 That I am most dreadful to every wight. 
 Every man afforsyth to content me and please: 
 Who that dothe contrary shall not leve in ease. 
 
 IMTELLECTYVE. 
 
 Cast thy sight upward?, and thou shalt see 
 One myghtier than thou a thousande degree: 
 Compare thy myght to his, and thy myght is none ; 
 Drede hym that is moste myghty when thy myght is gone : 
 Love and drede hvm, and in hevyn thou shalt reignej 
 When all other thynge is vanite 3 that is not vayne ! ,? 
 
26 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH* 
 
 Next upon the road is Scarborough, where the 
 ancient family of the Hothams formerly resided. 
 It's mansion-house, during the civil wars, was 
 supplied with stores and cannon and garrisoned by 
 Sir John Hotham, governor of Hull. But it fell 
 suddenly with it's master, after being ravaged by 
 those whose party he had supported against Charles 
 I. On his flight from Hull, he was seized near 
 Beverley-Gate, as he made an effort to regain his 
 house at Scorborough. * His eldest son acted, 
 one while, as a spy over him; and his sister's 
 husband, Sir Matthew Boynton, not only opposed 
 all his measures, but sent orders by express to 
 Beverley at all events to secure his person ! From 
 his imprisonment at Beverley, to the scaffold on 
 Tower. Hill, his transition was short. A small 
 remnant of decaying trees, bald-headed with dry 
 antiquity, hard by where the Hotham's mansion 
 stood, and closer to the road, still affords protection 
 to a company of herons; and an extensive castle- 
 moat is still preserved, 
 
 * He had previously been knocked off his horse, at the 
 command of his nephew Colonel Boynton, by a common 
 toldier. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 27 
 
 Beswick, six miles and a half from Beverley, is 
 distinguished only by a deserted old mansion, pro- 
 tected by some groups of trees from the visitation 
 of northern winds. Here once lived the Nimrod 
 of the north, William Draper Esq., who bred and 
 hunted the best pack of fox-hounds in Europe. He 
 was uncle to Sir William Draper, who conquered 
 the Manillas. Singular in many traits of character, 
 and amiable in most of them, upon an annual income 
 of about 700/. he educated respectably eleven sons 
 and daughters; * kept a noble pack of dogs with 
 suitable horses, and maintained a carriage for his 
 kidy and family ! 
 
 At Watton (Olim Vetadun, quasi Wet Town) 1 
 was a nunnery, about the year 686. Afterward 
 u Eustace Fitz-John founded a priory of Gilber- 
 tine nuns, in this place (says an old MSS.) 
 surrounded by waters and marshes. He endowed 
 it for the sustentation of thirteen canons, perpetu- 
 
 * Miss Di Draper, one of them, attained almost equal 
 celebrity with her father. 
 
 + " Situm est in loco, qui aquis et Paludibus septus ex re 
 nomen hahet, diciturque Watton, id est, Humid a Villa." 
 
 (alredijs rusvallensis.) 
 
23 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 ally to serve the nuns therein, in divine and terrene 
 matters." Fifty three $uns were here consecrated 
 at once by William de Mel ton , archbishop of York, 
 A. D. 1326. When dissolved, * the monastery, 
 valued at 453/. 7s. Sd. per ann.y was bestowed 
 upon John Earl of Warwick, 
 
 The building occupied by the nuns, which stood a 
 little distance from a convent of monks here es„ 
 tablished, is now wholly gone to decay ; but it's 
 site, an irregular surface of pits with cavities ill 
 filled up, is still called 'the Nunnery.' Among 
 various and well-preserved remains of the monks' 
 apartments, a considerable bow-window attracts 
 notice, as well from the excellence of it's freestone 
 material, as the good proportions and simplicity 
 of the lower part, and the well-executed figures on 
 the top. These consist of four bustos of persons, 
 as in the act of prayer, and are of considerable 
 size. On the north retired angle, is a venerable 
 head (probably, that of the founder) with the 
 singular drapery of head-dress used by persons of 
 distinction about the time of Henry IV., of which 
 some specimens also exist among the ornamental 
 
 * It was surrendered December 9, 1540, 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. g$ 
 
 figures on the back of the altar-screen in Beverley 
 minster : opposite, and to*the southward, a nun in 
 the act of prayer possibly represents the abbess of 
 that time. Over the projecting angles stands the 
 head of a cheorl, or country-man, in a hat which 
 from the effect of time and weather has contracted 
 a whimsical expression of countenance; and, 
 contrasted with it, a good head of a citizen in his 
 deep-crowned bonnet. The antiquary will regard 
 the whole of this window,, as highly worthy of his 
 notice. 
 
 Johanna de Stuteville, widow of Hugh de Wake 3 
 granted to the canons of Wat ton ail her lands in 
 Hessle near Hull. The seal, which she attached 
 to this grant, exhibits a woman riding sideways 
 with the bridle in her right-hand, and an escut- 
 cheon bearing the arms of Stuteville in her lefL 
 This refutes what has been remarked by historians, 
 that Anne, Queen of Richard II., was the first who 
 introduced this fashion into England. This lady 
 Johanna died 4th Edward I., possessed of great 
 property in Yorkshire and Cumberland. 
 
30 ROt/TE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 From Watton, to Driffield, little remarkable 
 offers itself. 
 
 In the days of blind superstition, about the early 
 part of the fourteenth century, the tower of Great- 
 Driffield Church appears to have been built ; the 
 church itself (which is very ancient, and variously 
 patched up) it abundantly surpasses in architec- 
 ture, solidity, and excellence of material. This 
 tower, as tradition reports, was erected by one of 
 the Hotham family, under the injunction of his 
 confessor, to expiate a murther ! 
 
 Little-Driffieid, about a mile to the west, was a 
 town of some consideration in the time of the 
 Anglo-Saxon Kings of Northumbria, and in it's 
 neighbourhood many battles were fought. Upon 
 digging for stone or gravel in the environs, human 
 bones and remains of armour, swords, spears, and 
 spurs are frequently cast up. Danes-Dale farm, 
 two miles to the north-east, is so called from a 
 number of small tumuli thrown up near each 
 other, the graves of invading Danes slain (as tradi- 
 tion informs us) on that spot. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. SI 
 
 To Ganton-Daee inn, a twelve mile stage, the 
 road lies over the wold-hills, dreary and uninter- 
 esting. 
 
 From thelatter place, however, to Scarborough 
 (eleven miles) the prospect widens and improves. 
 At Seamer, on St. Swithin's day (July 15.) is held 
 one of the most considerable cloth and linen fairs 
 in Yorkshire. Many cattle are, also, bought and 
 sold here. From this day the neighbourhood date, 
 -sts from a general epocha ; and the visiters of 
 Scarborough have often found it a day of no incon- 
 siderable amusement. 
 
32 HOUTE TO SCARBOROUGH* 
 
 ROUTE 
 To SCARBOROUGH, through YORK.* 
 
 MILES. 
 
 From York to Malton . . . ,„ . 18 
 
 Scampston . . , « 5 
 
 Yedingliam- Bridge 4 
 
 Brompton 4 
 
 Wy keham , 1 
 
 Hutton Bushel I J 
 
 Ay ton 1 ^ 
 
 Scarborough «... 5 
 
 From York to Malton the road is far from 
 unpleasant. Castle-Howard, with* it's Mauso- 
 leum and it's Park, lies a little to the west; and 
 with it's statuary, and it's paintings, amply repays 
 a deviation from the direct line. It's front exceeds 
 by 339 feet that noble monument of national 
 gratitude, Blenheim. Of both, as well as of Bun- 
 combe-Park near Helmsley in this neighbourhood. 
 Sir John Vanbrugh + was the architect. 
 
 * The antiquities of York it would indeed be absurd to 
 attempt to comprehend in this small volume. The Cathe- 
 dral alone would swell far beyond it's limits. To the local 
 guide, therefore, the stranger must be referred. 
 
 t Ill-nature composed for him the fallowing epitaph : 
 kfc Lie heavy on him, Earth ; for he 
 Laid many a heavy load on thee/" 
 For a more detailed a^ccount of these noble mansions see- 
 the Appendix. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. S3 
 
 MALTON(alias, New Malton) a borough, and "a 
 market town, of four furlongs in length on the 
 road, and more transversely, is divided into two 
 parts, the old and the new. It is watered by the 
 navigable river Derwent, over which it hath a good 
 stone-bridge ; is well inhabited, and accommodated 
 with good inns. It hath a weekly market, on 
 Saturdays. The fairs are here on the second 
 Monday after Easter, and Michaelmas Day. Old 
 Malton, about one mile to the left of the new town, 
 hath a church, a mill, and the ruins of an abbey.'* 
 Eustace Fitz-John, " to whom Henry I. gave this 
 town and Alnwick in Northumberland, disgusted 
 with King Stephen, gave up that place and Mal- 
 ton-Castle to David King of Scots, who putting a 
 garrison here, greatly harassed and laid waste 
 the neighbouring towns. Thurstan, archbishop 
 >of York, defeated the Scots, took the castle, and 
 burned down the town. Eustace, at length re- 
 conciled to the King, rebuilt the town, which hath 
 ever since been called New Malton. Ralph Lord 
 Evers, who had very extensive possessions in this 
 country and neighbourhood, built a large and 
 sumptuous house here, in the reign of James I. 
 It descended to two daughter^ and after a long suit 
 
34 KOUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 at law respecting it, the determination was, that it 
 should be pulled down and the materials divided 5 
 which was accordingly done, under the inspection 
 of Sir Henry Marwood, the then high-sheriff. It's 
 lodge only, which is a very handsome structure, 
 was suffered to remain.' * The borough of Mai ton 
 belongs to Eari Fitzwilliam, of whom it would be 
 superfluous to add more than the universal wish, 
 that there never may be wanting a continuance of 
 lineal descendents to support and perpetuate the 
 esteem, which that great name has merited* — and 
 obtained. 
 
 From Malton to Scabborough, the distance is 
 twenty-two miles* Rillington church and 
 steeple are peculiarly well situated, terminating 
 several handsome vistas. At Scampston, the park 7 
 
 * A cross was heretofore erected at Sprotsburg in this 
 county (where the Fitzwilliams had a magnificent seat) in 
 the High-Street of the town, bearing a brass plate with the 
 following inscription ; 
 
 " Whosoe is hongry,andlyst well to eate, 
 Let hymcometo Sprotsburg for his meate ; 
 And for a nyghte, and for a day, 
 Hys hors shall haue bothe corn and hey, 
 And non shall ask hym whan he goth awaye ! 
 This cross was pulled down in the year 1520. 
 
 ,-l 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 35 
 
 ornamented grounds, and splendid mansion on the 
 left are the property df the St. Quintins. The 
 fifth and last baronet of that lineage died A. D. 
 1795. 
 
 Yedingham-Bridge inn is the most useful stage, 
 though a short one from Malton. This place 
 was anciently called Little Harris, or de Parvo 
 Marisco. Here Roger Le Clere endowed a nun- 
 nery, about the year 1241. Sir William Bugdale 
 relates, that there were delivered in this house, u to 
 the prioress and convent, sixty-two loaves * daily ; 
 to nine brethren, twelve loaves a-piece weekly; 
 to brother James, fourteen loaves ; to three priests, 
 four chaplains, and other officers accordingly ; an J 
 canibus in singulis maneriis, triginta novem panes 
 depane duriori: — i. e. to the dogs in each manor, 
 thirty-nine loaves of the coarser sort of bread." 
 These are Supposed to have been wolf-dogs kept, 
 at first by permission (wolves being anciently a 
 royal game) afterward by obligation, to protect 
 both cattle, inhabitants, and travellers from those 
 dangerous animals, which formerly abounded upon 
 the wolds. 
 
 * Each conventual loaf weighed fifty shillings steiling. 
 
36 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Nearer to Scarborough and about half a mile t© 
 the left is seen Ebberston, an elegant stone-man. 
 sion, built on the plan of a Roman villa, in the 
 front of a handsome grove of stately trees. It's 
 present owner is Lord Hotham. 
 
 The village of Brompton, through which the 
 road leads, gives variety to the landscape. It's 
 mansion-house is the family-residence of the 
 Cayleys, ancient baronets. 
 
 Wykeham was in former times the site of a 
 monastery of Cistertian nuns, founded by Pain 
 Fitz-Osbert de Wickham, about the year 1153, 
 dedicated to* the Virgin Mary and St. Helena. 
 Of the abbey itself there remain only part of it's 
 north wall, and it's chapel where parochial duty 
 is still performed. At it's dissolution, nine religi- 
 ous belonged to it; and the valuation of it's rent 
 was 251. 17s. Sd.per aniu This nunnery with it's 
 church, cloysters, and twtnty-four other houses 
 being casually destroyed by fire, Edward III. 
 relieved them, for t^nty years, from a payment 
 to the crown of 3/. 12s. 7d.per ann. 
 
ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH. 37 
 
 Hutton-Bushel, the next village, stands to the 
 left: little of it however is caught from the road, 
 beside a view of the church-tower, and a glimpse 
 of the manor-house.* 
 
 Ayton, with it's handsome bridge of four Roman 
 arches, is the last object deserving of notice. A 
 ruin of some antiquity is indeed seen to the left', 
 on crossing the Derwent, which was formerly a 
 mansion-house of the Evers family, once very great 
 proprietors of territory in this county. But from 
 Ayton to Scarborough the view degenerates ; the 
 husbandman, from the niggardliness of the soil, 
 being forced to protect his slender crops with dry 
 stone-walls. 
 
 The approaches to sea-ports from the land are 
 seldom particularly beautiful. A considerable 
 difference in the air is perceptible soon after pass- 
 
 's Of this a great portion was by accident burnt to the 
 ground, January 4, 1809; and has not yet been rebuilt. 
 
 By those who have reached Scarborough through a differ- 
 ent route, Hutton-Bushel, Wykeham, Brompton, Ebber- 
 Mon, and Scampston may be seeu with ease in a morning; 
 and comfortable refreshments may be had at YediHghanij 
 Siiaimon, or Wykeham. 
 
38 ROUTE TO SCARBOROUGH, 
 
 I 
 
 ing Hutton-Bushel. The atmosphere, tempered 
 (particularly, during the hot months) by the salu- 
 brious influence of the sea, not only protects the 
 district from oppressive and relaxing heats, but also 
 from violerit tempests of thunder and lightning. 
 Such tempests rarely visit Scarborough ; and when 
 they do, under the rapid T attraction of the ocean, 
 they usually waste upon the waves their alarming 
 force. 
 
 After a long and tedious ascent, the scene by 
 degrees expands, till a noble spread of $ea beams 
 on the sight. The proud coast, beautifully irregu- 
 lar, with it's rugged mass of hills bars the assailing 
 waves. Ships, in groups or scattered, with unceas- 
 ing variety delight the eye. On a smaller scale, 
 fishing-boats and cobles, like the buoy a almost 
 too small for sight," animate the vast field of water. 
 Few towns open upon travellers more gradually, or 
 more satisfactorily. * The castle-hill in particular, 
 with it's ancient tower and romantic line of defence, 
 forms an uncommonly striking back-ground. 
 
 * Among the buildings, distinguishable in the imraedate 
 vicinity of Scarborough, stands foremost Belle-Vue House, 
 the residence of Miss Collier ; aptly so named, as occupying 
 one of the finest of situations for mixed and beautiful 
 prospect. 
 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 39 
 
 Anciently, the road to the Temple of Honour^ay 
 through that of Virtue : at Scarborough the ap- 
 proach to health and pleasure passes under the arch 
 of misery; and, we trust, repentance! Over the 
 gateway leading into the town, stands the Borough- 
 Gaol, or Prison. 
 
 Through this the stranger enters Newbrough, a 
 wqll.built street, presenting the mingled ideas of 
 comfort, opulence, and improvement. It's ground, 
 plat, on a gradual descent, is nearly a thousand feet 
 in length, and generally about fifty wide; with an 
 excellent flagged footway, nine feet broad, on each 
 side. The houses, which have a cheerful air, 
 though not upon a large scale, are chiefly built of 
 brick ; though some of them arp faced, or orna. 
 men ted, with squared stone. 
 
 The second opening on the left exhibits Queen- 
 Street, whose buildings and dimensions would 
 scarcely discredit a metropolis. The markets, on 
 Thursdays and Saturdays, and the two fairs (on 
 Martinmas-Day, and Holy-Thursday) are chiefly 
 held in this street. To the right, about one 
 p 
 
40 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 hundred yards from the town-gate,, a narrow open- 
 ing leads to Long-Room-Street, a street almost 
 wholly destined to the accommodation of visitors : 
 in it stand the public rooms, and several of the 
 largest lodging-houses in Scarborough. Passing 
 this, by a short turning to the right, you reach the 
 new buildings upon the cliff; which from their airy 
 situation, and fine view of the sea, * are generally 
 preferred as lodgings to every other. Many of 
 them are either divisible into separate ranges of 
 appartments, or capable of being occupied as single 
 houses; and they are universally fitted up with 
 proper attention to the convenience of those, for 
 whom they are designed. 
 
 * From the cliff parade-walk, and indeed from every sur- 
 rounding* height, this splendid scene presents on a fine 
 morning a source of various entertainment, both to the eye 
 and to the mind ! 
 
 " For to behold, it was ane glore tose 
 The stablit windis, and the calmytsee, 
 
 The soft seasoun, the firmament serene, 
 The louue illumined air, and firth amene ; 
 Kirkis, castelis, and ilke fair cityes, 
 Stude payftit, every fane, tower and stage, 
 Upon the plain ground, by thare own umbrage!' 1 
 
 (GAVVIN DOUGLAS.) 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 41 
 
 SCARBOROUGH SPAW. 
 
 " Fons eiiam. ut nee 
 
 Frigidior Thracam, nee purior ambiat Hebrus; 
 Infirmo capitijluituiilis^ utilis alvo" 
 
 HOR. 
 
 The SPAW, consisting of two distinct wells, 
 is not more than half a mile from any of the prin- 
 cipal lodging-houses. There a superintendent 
 resides during the season, and receives subscrip- 
 tions; * two-thirds of which are appropriated to 
 the Corporation, to reimburse their expenses in 
 supporting the Spaw-House, the Platform, and 
 the Walks; and the rest to the water-servers, who 
 are usually widows appointed by that bod T v ?,!/. 
 Pt-ai son, the present governor, is notonly possessed 
 of the knowledge appropriate to his appointment, 
 but has considerable information also upon many 
 other subjects. 
 
 The Spaw-House, which is generally the object 
 of the stranger's earliest visit, lies S. by E. from 
 the cliff-terrace at a distance of about 700 yards. 
 This building was raised to it's present form, in 
 
 * Seven shillings and sixpence per head. 
 
 . 
 
42 SCARBOROUGH, 
 
 the year 1739. In 1737, the former spaw.house 
 and staith, or wharf upon which it had been built, 
 were destroyed by a quantity of solid earth from 
 behind sinking in, and forcing up the sands and 
 spongy soil around, for the space of more that 100 
 yards, to the height of 18 or 20 feet above it's 
 previous level. 
 
 The medical powers of this water were first 
 brought into notice, about the year 1627 (says Dr. 
 Wittie,) " by one Mrs. Farrow, a gentlewoman of 
 good repute, who lived at Scarborough. She walk, 
 ed sometimes this way ; and observing the stones 
 by which this water passed to have received a 
 :^353- tincture, and finding the water to have an 
 acid taste different from ordinary spring.water, 
 and discerning it to receive a purple tincture from 
 gall (being a discreet gentlewoman, and also phy. 
 sically addicted) she thought it probably to have 
 some medicinal quality ; and thereupon did both 
 try it herself, and persuaded others also, that were 
 sickly, to drink of it; finding that it did both 
 loose the belly, and also amend the stomach and 
 cure some distempers, it became the usual physic 
 of the inhabitants of Scarborough ; and by degrees 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 43 
 
 it came into use and reputation among those of the 
 East-Riding near adjoining. At length it became 
 well known to the citizens of York, and the gen. 
 try of the county ; yea, and to several persons of 
 quality, who upon the large recommendatiors of 
 such as knew it's operations and had made trial of 
 it, came above a hundred miles to drink of it, 
 preferring it before all other waters they had form- 
 erly frequented : nay (adds the Doctor) I have met 
 with several that have been at the Italian, French, 
 and German spaws, who prefer this for it's speedy 
 passage and innocent working both ways, before 
 them all." 
 
 A traditionary account states that several of the 
 neighbouring loyalists, having assisted in defend- 
 ing the castle of Scarborough against Sir John 
 Meldrum and the parliament-forces, suffered much 
 by scurvy from long confinement and unwholesome 
 food ; but, on drinking the waters of this spring, 
 were very shortly altogether recovered. 
 
 The fame of Scarborough-Spaw, owed much of 
 it's extension to the recommendations of the great 
 Doctor Mead ; by whose patients of distinction 
 
44 SCARBOROUGH, 
 
 Such benefit was received, as to bring the placs 
 into the fullest vogue. In general, the water, when 
 fresh taken up, is extremely clear and of a quick 
 and pungent taste, leaving a pleasant flavour on 
 the palate. Mildly opening and powerfully diu-i 
 retic, it possesses the peculiar quality of bracing 
 and strengthening, at the same time that it pleas- 
 antly disincumbers the body, comfortably aiding 
 all the natural secretions. It invigorates relaxed 
 and debilitated stomachs ; and much promotes the 
 first concoction, whence 
 
 " Good digestion waits on appetite, 
 And health on both ! " 
 
 By a judicious mode of administering, it is easily 
 accommodated to the tender and delicate ; nor does 
 it fail to act with effect, when sufficiently perse- 
 vered in, upon the most robust. Sedentary persons, 
 and those whose powers of digestion are naturally 
 languid, invariably experience it's beneficial oper- 
 ation. Too little exercise combined with too much 
 animal or alcalescent food, late hours, and an un- 
 wholesome seclusion from open air, are the fruitful 
 parents of a long line of diseases; and, the conse- 
 quences of a town life ; as it is now generally passed 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 45 
 
 during the winter-months, render this water, of 
 all others most invaluable as an antidote. Lowness 
 of spirits, hypochondriac disorders, and unpleasant 
 humours often follow the irregular distributions 
 of time prescribed by the habits of fashionable life, 
 and too frequently precede still more serious com- 
 plaints. One complaint, it must however be 
 acknowledged, these springs are subject to substi- 
 stitute in lieu of those which they remove — an 
 unusual impatience respecting the hours of meals ! 
 The very plain maxims, of temperate regularity in 
 the hours of rest and of diet, exercise in the open 
 air, and participation of the cheerful amusements 
 of the place, rationally pursued,, may be considered 
 as the regimen to be observed. The exact pro- 
 portion, and season of taking them, ought to be 
 implicitly submitted to a medical director; as medi- 
 cines of every description (it should be remembered) 
 which have a known power to do great good, 
 possess the qualify, when injudiciously taken, of 
 doing at least as much harm. 
 
 The subtile volatile spirit, which most authors 
 represent as characteristic of mineral waters, seems 
 lobe fixed air or carbonic acid, upon the escape 
 
46 SCARBOROUGH* 
 
 of which the metallic particles are precipitated, 
 their menstruum being no longer able to hold 
 them in solution. Hence it appears that all 
 mineral waters should be drank at or near the 
 fountain-head. 
 
 A medical gentlemen of Edinburgh describes the 
 waters of Scarborough, as chalybeate, purging, &c. 
 
 a The two wells (he observes) are both impreg. 
 
 t 
 nated with the same principles, in different pro- 
 portions ; though the purging (or southern) well 
 is the most celebrated, and the water of this in 
 pre-eminence called the 'Scarborough water.'— 
 When these waters are poured out of one glass 
 into another, they throw up a number of air-bub- 
 bles ; and if they are shaken for some time in a 
 phial close stopped, and the phial be suddenly 
 opened before the commotion ceases, they displode 
 an elastic vapour with an audible noise, which 
 shows that they abound in fixed air. At the 
 fountain, they have a brisk, pungent, chalybeate 
 taste ; but the purging water tastes bitterish, 
 which is not usually the case with the chalybeate 
 one. They lose their chalybeate virtues by explo- 
 sive, and by keeping ; but the purging water the 
 
SCARBOROUGH, ^ 
 
 -nest. They both putrify by keeping, but i tt 
 t. me recover their sweetness. Fonr or five half 
 pmts of the purging water, drank within an hour" 
 g've twoor three easy motions, and raise the spirit 
 J^ke quantity of cha , y beate purges less, but 
 e.hdarates more, and passes off chiefly by urine. 
 These waters have been found particularly bene. 
 *c.al ln hectic fevers, weakness of the stomach, 
 and .ndigestion; in relaxations of the system, i„ 
 nervous, hysteric, and hypochondriac disorders 
 scurvy, asthmatic comp Ia i nts , habitual costiveness.' 
 and sexual indispositions. 
 
 D \ B fr L !L 0MBE,S QEm **L ACCOUNT 
 of SCARBOROUGH SPAIV WATERS. 
 
 The place where two springs issue from the 
 bottom of the cliffs, to the southward of the town 
 -called the Sr.w. These springs are distinguished' 
 by the names of <*, Chalybeate,, and 'the Salt' 
 ,'pnng, 0r W °»- The first well, on descending 
 he steps, isthe chalybeate water, sometimes ca.led 
 the North-Well; and near it, the Salt or South. 
 Well. The water of the South-Well owes it's 
 P«™pal virtues to carbonic acid gas, vitriolatrf 
 
4S SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 magnesia, muriated natron, muriaied lime, and 
 carbonate of iron. The North-Weil water con- 
 tains the same principles ; but in different propor- 
 tions. From both wells the water is perfectly 
 clear, of a bluish cast, sometimes sparkling ; has 
 not a disagreeable taste, nor the least unpleasant 
 smell. Although the North-Well has been called 
 'the Chalybeate,' it is found not to hold more iron 
 in solution than the other; but containing much 
 less vitriolated magnesia, it's taste is stronger, or 
 more inky. The taste of the South -Well water is 
 brisk, and not disagreeably saline. When suffered 
 to stand in an open vessel exposed to the sun, or in 
 a warm room, the sides of the vessel are soon 
 covered with air-bubbles, and the water becomes 
 somewhat turbid : in a day or two, it deposits a 
 little yellow or orange-coloured sediment. The 
 water then grows clear again, and if suffered to 
 stand lightly covered for some weeks, a thin skim 
 or peliicle forms upon the surface, and under it a 
 number of beautiful crystals, which on the least 
 motion fall to the bottom. Phenomena, nearly 
 similar, may be observed in theNorth.Well watei 
 except that few or no crystals form by this spoil, 
 taneous evaporation. These crystals are vitriohu 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 49 
 
 ted magnesia. It is said, that the water from both 
 wells, on being kept for some time corked, will 
 becorre fetid; and, on being again exposed to the 
 air, will recover it's former purity. 
 
 Much of the orange-coloured sediment is obser- 
 ved in all the channels near the spaw, and it 
 sometimes comes down the pipes, which conduct 
 the water, in considerable quantities : this the 
 water-servers call, 'the coming down of the mineral.' 
 It is chiefly carbonate of iron , and carbonate of 
 lime. The temperature of these springs varies very 
 little: which is considered as a proof, that they 
 rise at a considerable depth in the earth. The 
 thermometer generally stands at 45° in the North- 
 Well water, when it is at 32° (or freezing) in the 
 open air. In the South-Well water, it is com- 
 monly half a degree higher. I have seldom seen 
 it more than 46° or 46° 5 even in summer. The 
 specific gravity of the South -Well water is 10038, 
 06, of the North-Well wator 10033,23; and of the 
 sea-water 10270,54; distilled water being consid- 
 ered as 10000. 
 
 From remote ages, mineral waters have been 
 considered as very efficacious medicines in almost 
 
50 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 all those diseases, which have not yielded to the 
 use of other remedies, and not unfrequently as in- 
 stances ot~ God's peculiar goodness to his creatures : 
 consequently, their effects have been esteemed 
 miraculous. So prone is human nature to super- 
 stition, and so apt to attribute to the partial inter- 
 position of the Diety the effect of general laws, 
 which it's finite reason does not comprehend. 
 Scepticism commonly succeeds superstition; and 
 accordingly, it is now the mode with some physi- 
 cians to regard mineral waters as remedies of little 
 value. 
 
 The surprising advances which chemistry has 
 made within a very few years, by enabling men to 
 ascertain with accuracy the contents of mineral 
 waters, has, it is true, enabled them to judge more 
 correctly of their probable effects; and, conse, 
 quently, rendejs them less liable than formerly to 
 imposition from supposed cures, which may have 
 been the effect of other unnoticed circumstances 5 
 but until they can explain, more satisfactorily than 
 at present, the way in which medicines act, they 
 ought not to decry the valuable effects, which ex- 
 perience informs us are frequently produced by 
 small quantities of miueral substances diffused 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 5 1 
 
 through large portions of pure water. Chemistry 
 has, also, enabled them to imitate the mineral 
 -waters with considerable success ; but it has been 
 found extremely difficult to make the waters as 
 agreeable and pure, as at the fountain. 
 
 Drs. Wittie and Simpson published, above a 
 century ago, some accounts of the virtues of the 
 Scarborough waters. And although they quarrel! ed 
 very acrimoniously about the contents of the 
 waters, they agreed in vouching for their efficacy in 
 scurvy, hypochondriacal disorders, stone and 
 strangury, agues, jaundice, dropsy, zcorms, ster- 
 ility, and many diseases peculiar to the sex. I 
 acknowledge, I have never tried the waters in 
 several of the disorders above enumerated. I shall 
 however rather give the result of my own experi- 
 ence, during upward of four years that I resided 
 at Scarborough, than refer to these authors, or to 
 those who have copied them. 
 
 Dr. Wittie insists much upon some preparation 
 previous to drinking the waters; but none seems 
 to be required, where the nature of the disease, or 
 the present state of it, admits their use. 
 
52 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 The general effect of the South-Well water, 
 when drank in a sufficient quantity, is to act gently 
 upon the bowels and kidneys, and sometimes on 
 both; but without harassing, or fatiguing: on 
 the contrary, it strengthens and exhilarates. It is 
 serviceable in debility , and relaxations of the sto» 
 mack, in nervous disorders, scurvy, struma or 
 swelled glands, chlorosis, and particular weak* 
 nesses. I have found it very useful in a variety of 
 chronic complaints attended by habitual costive-, 
 ness. These complaints are often accompanied by 
 some degree of jaundice, or are frequently subse- 
 quent to it; to a sedentary life^ to long-continued 
 and painful affections of the mind, to long and 
 tedious illness , to agues, to residence in hot climates, 
 and sometimes to intemperance. In such cases I 
 have known a small glass of this water, repeated 
 every day for some time, produce the most desired 
 and permanent eSect ; even when very powerful 
 medicines have been found not to answer, or only 
 to afford temporary relief. Most commonly how- 
 ever two, three, or even four half-pints, taken at 
 proper intervals and repeated daily, are required; 
 although no very great constipation may have 
 preceded. 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 53 
 
 Some diseases of the stomach, as I have already 
 observed, are much relieved by this water; others 
 are increased by it's use : especially all those pro- 
 ceeding from long-continued intemperance. But 
 the sickness arising from occasional excess is often 
 wonderfully relieved by a glass or two of it. 
 It sometimes affords relief in the gravel, as 
 well as in several pains of the loins whose seat 
 seems to be in the kidneys, although they are ge- 
 nerally called rheumatic. Diseases commonly 
 comprehended under the appellation of scurvy, as 
 pimples j red face, eruptions in various parts of the 
 body, roughness of the skin, or scurf, fyc. are often 
 cured by a long-continued use of the South-Well 
 water. Some remarkable instances of this kind 
 have come to my knowledge, both in the inhabi- 
 tants of the town and in strangers. In these 
 disorders so much water should be drank daily, at 
 proper intervals, as will produce some sensible 
 effect upon the bowels. Sometimes a single glass, 
 even of the smallest size, will be sufficient: but 
 when three or four half-pints are not found to 
 answer, it is better to add a little Scarborough salt, 
 or drink a glass of sea-water^ than to increase the 
 quantity. 
 
54 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 The Chalybeate, or North-Well water, has little 
 or no opening property. It braces, and generally 
 passes off by urine. Hence it is preferable in most 
 of those complaints, in which the bowels will not 
 bear the South.Well water. In all cases of ge- 
 neral weakness and relaxation it's virtues are ac- 
 knowledged: and I observe, that the water-servers 
 generally recommend it to the delicate of their own 
 sex; I believe*, with good success. This water is, 
 however, apt to heat; and sometimes sits heavy. 
 This may be prevented by the means hereafter 
 mentioned, or by taking a glass of the South- Well 
 water at the same time. 
 
 The North-Well water is peculiarly useful in a 
 variety of nervous cases ; particularly those con- 
 sequent on confinement, dissipation, and a town* 
 life, where the bowels require no assistance. It 
 is likewise serviceable in those very numerous 
 cases, which occur to females at that time of life, 
 when the growth seems disproportionate to the 
 strength. This complaint is mostly distinguished 
 by a pale complexion, depraved appetite, weariness 
 and pains in the limbs, palpitations, Sfc. 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 55 
 
 To reap any material advantage, these waters 
 must be drunk at the fountain : for as their virtues 
 in some measure depend upon an elastic fluid or 
 gas, which quickly escapes from the water, they 
 must necessarily lose some of their properties by 
 being transported to any distance. This circum- 
 stance, although of importance, is not much 
 attended to, except by a few who have already 
 experienced the advantage of it. The custom, 
 therefore, of sending for the water to the lodging- 
 houses ought as much as possible to be avoided ; 
 more particularly as some kind of exercise should 
 be taken between each glass, to assist it's effect, 
 In all cases where the patient is able, walking is 
 preferable to every other; next, riding on horse- 
 back; and, last of all, in a carnage. The best time 
 for drinking the waters is, before breakfast: but 
 some persons cannot bear their coldness fasting; 
 in which case, they may be conveniently drunk 
 about two hours after breakfast. When they sit 
 heavy, or when the stomach is delicate, they are 
 sometimes taken a little warm : but by this prac- 
 tice their virtues are diminished. The addition of 
 a tea-spoonful of brandy , tincture of cardamums y 
 or ether, is preferable. The dose cannot be ascer*, 
 
 K 
 
56 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 tained, but by trial. It is best to begin with a 
 small glass, and repeat it every quarter of an hour 
 or twenty minutes, using exercise between each, 
 until some effect be produced. If the small glass 
 be not found sufficient, the half-pint may be tried, 
 with such additions as have been already mentioned. 
 
 Those, who bathe and drink the water the same 
 day, generally bathe first. And this seems a pro- 
 per precaution, in particular for such as are deli- 
 cate, who ought indeed rather to bathe and drink 
 the waters on alternate days. Those, who are 
 robust, will sometimes drink the waters on the 
 same day, both before and after bathing. Every 
 year, however, furnishes some instances, that both 
 bathing and drinking the waters are practised in- 
 cautiously; often in diseases, in which they are 
 improper. 
 
 Sea-water is served at the Spaw, to those who 
 are recommended to use it internally. 
 
 The Spaw was first superintended by one Dicky 
 Dickinson, whose very singular portrait is prefixed 
 
 \ 
 \ 
 

SCARBOROUGH. 57 
 
 to this work. In a periodical miscellany, pub- 
 lished in 1733, this gentleman is described as 
 "one of the most deformed pieces of mortality. ?nd 
 of the most uncouth manner of speech ; however 
 with JE sop's deformity he has some of his wit. 
 He rents the well of the Corporation at a small 
 rent, and has built two houses for the conveniency 
 of the company, one for the use of the gentlemen, 
 and the other for the ladies. The custom is, as 
 soon as you enter the room, to subscribe your 
 name in Dicky's Book, and pay five shillings ; 
 after which you have the free use of his retire- 
 ments." — The following humorous lines were 
 written under his picture, engraved by Mr. 
 Vertue ; 
 
 44 Behold the Governor of Scarborough Spate, 
 The strangest Phiz and Form you every saw ; 
 Yet, when you view the beauties of his mind, 
 In- him a second JEsop you may find. 
 Samos unenvied boasts her jEsop gone, 
 And France may glory in her late Scarron, 
 While England has a living Dickinson." 
 
 \ 
 
58 SCARBOROUGH 
 
 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 There is something altogether noble, as well as 
 beautiful, in the situation of Scarborough, when a 
 clear atmosphere gives you a fair view of it with 
 it's vast and irregular bay. This can only be well 
 seen from the castle-cliff, or some of the other near 
 heights* Whitby promontory is it's northern 
 limit ; and Flambrough-Head terminates it to the 
 south. The interval, of nearly forty miles, is 
 marked by an undulating line of cliffs, frequently 
 indented inward ; at the bottom of the most re- 
 tired of which, nearly in the midst of the huge 
 u>weep, stands Scarborough, forty-two miles N. 
 E. by E. from York, and two hundred and thirty- 
 six N. of London; is 0° 3 1 E.Long. 54° 18 
 N. Lat. 
 
 The Castle-Hill is seen conspicuous at every 
 point, boldly projecting to the N. W. the cham- 
 pion and defender, by sea as well as by land, of 
 the town which lies beneath. Placed on the steep 
 sides of it's semicircular bay, and sheltered and 
 overlooked bv the romantic ruins of it's castle, 
 Scarborough with it's crescent like buildings pre- 
 
SCAKBOROUGH. 59 
 
 sents a most pleasing appearance, whether viewed 
 from the sea, the castle, the cliff-terrace, or the 
 hill immediately overhanging the Spaw. The 
 great improvements, however, of the upper town 
 are of a modern date : it's ancient streets and 
 houses argue little in favour of the taste, or the 
 magnificence, of it's early inhabitants. The sur- 
 face, which Scarborough covers, is more extensive 
 than might be imagined; and it's population^ as 
 estimated in the return made in 1811, is 6,573. 
 
 Coal was anciently used in smaller quantities., 
 when wood abounded, and formed an inconsi- 
 derable article of commerce till the time of Charles 
 I. In this neighbourhood, where turf was plenti- 
 ful, the vicinity of Newcastle and it's store of pit- 
 coal then profited little. In the abbey-accounts 
 of Whitby, that species of fuel seems to have been 
 deemed a matter rather of luxury, than of general 
 use; as the only entry of conventual expenses un- 
 der the head of 4 Coal' amounted only to twelve 
 chaldrons for the years 1394, 1395, and 1396. 
 Here we must conclude, when we reflect upon the 
 great hospitality of those days, that their general 
 fuel must have been wood and turf: an inference 
 
60 
 
 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 justified, likewise, by the construction of the old 
 chimneys throughout the whole district. In later 
 times, this article of trade has employed many 
 ships belonging to, or built in, this port; the 
 quantity now brought, for the consumption of the 
 town and it's neighbourhood, amounting to above 
 8000 chaldrons^ Winchester measure, per ann. 
 
 Scarborough is a borough and town-corporate, 
 governed bj two bailiffs, two coroners, four cham- 
 berlains, and thirty-six common-council-men* 
 
 It's first charter on record, dated as early as the 
 year 1181 (28 Henry II.) grants certain immuni- 
 ties, on payment of fee.farm rents, and establishes 
 the civil government under Bailiffs aud Bur&esses. 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 61 
 
 This charter was confirmed or enlarged by each 
 succeeding monarch until Richard IK., vtho 
 changed the more ancient form of administration 
 to that of a Mayor, &c. That charter however 
 not being confirmed in council, the mode by bailiffs 
 was restored, and continued until 1685, when 
 Charles II. reappointed a Mayor. But upon the 
 accession of King William, the original custom of 
 Bailiffs was re-adopted, and has since remained 
 unaltered. These magistrates are elected annually 
 on the thirtieth of September. 
 
 Scarborough sends two members to parliament. 
 This privilege, first conferred in 1282 (11 Edward 
 I.) has continued without interruption ; and the 
 exercise of it was determined by the house of com- 
 mons, April 21, 1736, to be exclusively in the 
 Corporation; it gives the title of Earl, to the 
 noble family of Lumley. 
 
 The Officers of the garrison are, the Rt. Hon. 
 Lord Mulgrave, Governor of the Castle; Wil- 
 liam Travis, Esq. Ordnance Store-Keeper; and 
 Mr. B. Wilson, Barrack-Master. 
 
 ffdr The list of the Corporation , 5fc. is given in the Appendix, 
 
62 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 The situation of the town is, in several respects, 
 unfavourable to much extension of trade. Placed 
 in a hilly region, without inland navigation, on the 
 diameter of a thinly inhabited semicircle of eighteen 
 miles radius, of which the opposite half is sea; 
 and rivalled in various ways by Whitby, Mai ton, 
 Bridlington, and Hull; it has little chance of 
 improvement as an emporium of commerce. 
 
 Ingulph, from the authentic registers of Croy- 
 land abbey, gives a venerable list of certain 
 monks, with their names and ages. ** Father 
 Clarenbald, died A. D. 973, aged 168. Father 
 Swarling, aged 142. Father Turgar died the 
 year after, who arrived only to the 115th year of 
 his age IV In these more intemperate days, we 
 look up with a mixture of reverence and surprise 
 at every person, whose span of life is much pro- 
 tracted beyond the Psalmist's period; and na^ 
 turally conclude that region wholesome, where 
 men live long. Such surely is this district, and 
 it's wide environs. Towns were ever held, com- 
 paratively, less healthful than open villages ; yet 
 in Scarborough, among the register of burials in 
 the year 1786 ? occur sixteen persons between 80 
 
 fe 
 
SCAREOROXTGH. 
 
 63 
 
 and 90 years of age; between 90 and 100, five; 
 and one, aged 105 ! In the year 1787, beside a 
 very considerable list of persons between 70 and 
 SO, there were then living, between 80 and 106, 
 nearly one hundred individuals! From Decem- 
 ber 31, 1795, to January 23, 1796, six were 
 buried at Scarborough, whose ages together a. 
 mounted to 500 years ! 
 
 CHURCH. 
 
 Of four monasteries and two hospitals, which 
 were formerly built and endowed at Scarborough, 
 there remain no vestiges worthy of attention, 
 except a portion of the Church of St. Mary. This 
 sometime appertained to a convent of White or 
 
64 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Carmelite Friars, founded by Edward II., and 
 suppressed in the reign of Hmry V. It is no w 
 converted into a parish-church, and is the sole 
 edifice for the established worship in this town, 
 containing (as above stated) a population of nearly 
 seven thousand inhabitants ! Before the Refor- 
 mation, we read of it's being adorned with three 
 fair towers ; two at the west end, and one over the 
 middle of the cross aisle: but the ravages, which 
 generally attend violent reform, aided by those of 
 time and civil war, have left us only imperfect 
 remains of it's original grandeur. 
 
 During the siege of Scarborough-Castle by Sir 
 John Meldrnm, a lodgement was made by his 
 troops in this then extensive church. It's lofty 
 towers, within a small distance of the castle-gate, 
 enabled them greatly to annoy the defenders: they 
 drew several pieces of artillery within it's walls by 
 night, and forming there a masked batterj r , opened 
 their fire upon the castle through the windows. 
 This the besieged, however, returned in so 
 well-directed a manner, as speedily obliged the 
 assailants to abandon their post : but the edifice 
 suffered greatly in the conflict. In the preamble 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 65 
 
 of a brief, obtained by the inhabitants for the re- 
 building of this venerable fabric, then nearly in 
 ruins (12 Charles II.) It appears, that "their two 
 very fair churches were by the violence of cannoa 
 beaten down; and that in one day there were 
 threescore pieces of ordnance discharged against 
 the steeple of the upper church of St. Mary, and 
 the choir thereof quite beaten down; and the 
 steeple thereof so shaken, that notwithstanding 
 the endeavours of the said inhabitants to repair the 
 same, the steeple and the bells upon the tenth day 
 of October last fell, and brought down with it 
 most part of the same church : but the other 
 church, being called St. Thomas' * (situated near 
 the upper part of Newbrough-Street) was by the 
 violence of the ordnance quite ruined and battered 
 down. So that the said church, called St. Mary's, 
 must be rebuilt; or otherwise the said inhabitants 
 will remain destitute of a place wherein to assem- 
 ble themselves for the public worship of God : 
 and the charges of rebuilding the church, called 
 St. Mary's, will cost 2,500/. at least, which 
 
 * St. Thomas' Churcb, having been converted into a 
 magazine for the parliament-forces, when besieging Scar- 
 borough-Castle, was beatea <Jowa by the fire from the 
 €astle-batteriei. 
 
36 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 of themselves tney are not able to disburse ; their 
 fortunes being almost ruiued by the calamities of 
 the late wars, as aforesaid: and therefore the said 
 inhabitants, &c. &c." In consequence of this 
 brief, and other contributions, the body of St. 
 Mary's church and the tower at it's eastern end 
 were rebuilt upon the foundations and ruins of the 
 former edrfice, A. I>. 166&. 
 
 The civility of the inhabitants has constantly in- 
 duced them to accommodate strangers, in the best 
 manner their situation will admit, with the use of 
 their pews : and for the better convenience of the 
 company, during the summer, divine service is 
 performed every day at eleven o'clock. The right 
 of presentation to this slender vicarage is in the 
 lord of the manor of Northstead, which originally 
 belonged to the church, and is now in the posses* 
 sion of Lord Hotham. 
 
 The following is a list of the different classes 
 of Dissenters, and of their respective places of 
 public worship. Quakers, St* Sepulchre-Street ; 
 Independents, Ditto; Anabaptists, West gate ; 
 Methodists, Church-Stairs; Roman Catholics, 
 Aldbrough-Street, It is but justice to these several 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 67 
 
 denominations of Christians to say, that they live 
 together in a friendly and affectionate manner ; and 
 it is much to be wished, that such harmony were 
 more generally found between the members of the 
 established church, and those who dissent from it. 
 
 PIER. 
 
 Although the original of a pier at this place can- 
 not be accurately traced, we are well assured of 
 it's being a very ancient construction. Though 
 the date however be obscure, the use is obvious. 
 The old pier was 400 yards long, and from 6 to 10 : 
 yards wide. It's height within was 10, and with- 
 out toward the sea 13 yards. 
 
 In the 5th George II. an Act was passed for 
 enlarging the pier and harbour of Scarborough, 
 estimating the cost of the same at nearly 12,000/.^ 
 and imposing a duty of one halfpenny per chal- 
 dron, for all coals loaden on board any ship or 
 other vessel from Newcastle, or any port or place 
 belonging to Newcastle, until June 24, 1763j 
 together with sundry other duties on imports^ 
 exports ; and shipping, payable in Scarborough : 
 
63 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 the receipts and disbursements to be examined by 
 commissioners, appointed from among the neigh- 
 bouring gentlemen. These (to whom, by a sub- 
 sequent act continuing the aforesaid duties, the 
 bailiffs for the time being are joined) meet as 
 occasion requires, to examine the proceedings and 
 accounts, and give such farther directions as may 
 be necessary for accomplishing the original design 
 of improving the harbour, and rendering it a safe 
 asylum for ships in distress. 
 
 The new pier will be upward of 1300 feet in 
 length. About forty feet are annually completed, 
 when not prevented by peculiar stress of weather. 
 Many of the stones, employed in it's construction, 
 weigh from twenty to thirty tons each : they are 
 conveyed by lighters from the quarry of White 
 3fabb, an opposite point about two miles to the 
 south of the harbour. The strata in this curious 
 quarry are laid with as much exactness, as if they 
 had been deposited by human means, in order to 
 facilitate the taking of them up and applying them. 
 The machinery for lifting and placing them, when 
 brought to the pier ; is simple^ but of ingenious 
 contrivance. 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 69 
 
 SCARBOROUGH CASTLE. 
 
 Of this edifice the celebrated William of Brid- 
 lington, who was bcrn and spent the chief part of 
 his life Jn it's neighbourhood, gives the following 
 account as it existed in his Time, A. D. 1197 
 * c The rock," he remarks, ;c on which the castle 
 stands, is of a stupendous height and magnitude: 
 inaccessible, by reason of steep crags, almost on 
 
70 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 every side ; and stands in the sea, which very near 
 surrounds it. On the top is a delightful grassy 
 plain of about thirty acres * (though once account- 
 ed sixty, or more) with a little fountain of fresh 
 water, flowing from a rock. In the narrow bit of 
 land or passage, which leads to the west, and to 
 which on that part it cannot be ascended without 
 some labour, is a stately edifice J Underneath it 
 the entrance of the town begins, spreading on both 
 sides to the north and south, carrying it's front to 
 the west, which is strengthened with a wall, but 
 from the east fenced with a rock where the castle 
 is erected, and on both sides of the said rock by 
 the sea ! " The present remains of this once, 
 formidable citadel afford but an imperfect idea 
 of what it's real strength has anciently been. 
 Toward the sea, and on the north-west, nature 
 has done infinitely more for it's security, than 
 art could either accomplish or subvert. To the 
 south, a considerable outwork was carried on 
 which well defended the flank of the castle-gate, 
 and was itself also commanded by every part of the 
 castle near it. The outer gate, according to the 
 Military architecture of the times, was flanked 
 
 * Now only nineteen acres. 
 
 1 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 7 1 
 
 with towers, and provided with a portcullis be- 
 hind, above which was an opening for throwing 
 down stones, boiling water, melted lead, hot 
 ashes, lime, &c. as well as darts and arrows on 
 the assailants. Behind this gate is a deep perpen- 
 dicular trench, cut through the narrow neck unit- 
 ing the land with the castle-hill; in the centre 
 of which still remains a high tower, whence a 
 draw-bridge communicates with the gate. An- 
 ciently, a wide space separated this tower from the 
 castle ; and a communication was made to the gate 
 from within, as Leland describes, by two other 
 towers and draw-bridges. To protect the inner 
 gate, formidable works were added. This stood 
 at the foot of a noble tower of extraordinary 
 height, of which the walls, twelve feet thick in solid 
 masonry, are so cemented by lime-mortar, that it's 
 stones are by far the most perishable materials ! 
 Guarded in e\ery sense by this majestic keep 
 were circumvallations, which contained most of the 
 habitable buildings appertaining to the castle. Of 
 one of these the outer walls remain, within which 
 a well was sunk; but whether originally leading 
 to a reservoir, or to a spring, is not now perfectly 
 known. An embattled line.wall ran along the 
 
 K 
 
12 SCARBOROUGH* 
 
 outward edge of the hill, as may still be observed, 
 tanking the town, and continuing onward to the 
 sea. This was strengthened by many a small pro- 
 jecting turret, and from the steep slope in it's 
 front was, indeed, in little danger of any sudden 
 attack. Lest an enemy however should attempt 
 to storm and scale it, large spars and bodies of 
 timber-trees, we are informed, were kept in re- 
 serve; that upon any alarm, by night or by day, 
 they might be rolled down the steep to the inevita- 
 ble destruction of the assailants. In this manner 
 fell Sir John Meldrum, while attempting to 
 storm Charles' Fort (since demolished) near 
 the south-east limit of the cliff, On the south*. 
 west an outwork, as already mentioned, of rather 
 modern date was erected to defend the right flank 
 of the gate, without the draw-bridge. Seven guns 
 were here mounted at the siege of the Castle., 
 when defended by Sir John Hotharo. 
 
 In the reign of Edward II., we read of this cas- 
 tle being taken by the barons. The King, who 
 was with his favourite Gaveston at Newcastle, 
 when he heard the discontented nobles were 
 ©a their march against him 5 lodged him here^ 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 73 
 
 as in an assured place of safety 5 while be proceed- 
 ed himself to raise a force at Warwick. It proved 
 insufficient, however, to protect from the irritated 
 nobles the royal minion, whom they soon after* 
 ward beheaded on Gavesley-Heath. * 
 
 To detail the various fortunes of this picturesque 
 citadel, would lead to unnecessary prolixity, t 
 The figure however, which it made during the 
 civil wars under Charles I., will justify a some, 
 what minuter account. 
 
 * June 20, 1312. 
 
 + It's siege however by Thomas Stafford, son of T.ord 
 Stafford, iii the reign of Queen Mary, deserves to be re- 
 corded, as having: given rise to a proverbial phrase still 
 current in the neighbourhood : — *Scai borough warning ; a 
 word and a blow, but the blow first V This daring and 
 unfortunate gentleman entered Scarborough, on a market- 
 day, attended in a manner not likely to awaken jealousy ; 
 and, as if merely to satisfy his curiosity, strolled into the 
 neighbourhood or the castle. Under the disguise of peasants, 
 with baskets banging on their arms, aj^out thirty men gained 
 admittance within the castle-gate. These Mr. Stafford 
 presently followed, without any seeming knowledge of 
 them ; when they took their opportunity of coming up at 
 the same moment to the different sentries, whom they in- 
 stantly knocked down and secured, without uttering a single 
 word They then se : zed the gate, and admitted the re- 
 mainder of their party, who under their rustic garb had 
 concealed armour and accoutrements. But short was t!i$ 
 
74 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 During this eventful period, it was twice taken 
 by the parliament-forces: in 1645, by Sir John 
 Meldrum and Sir Matthew Boynton; and in 1648, 
 by Colonel Bethell. 
 
 Of the first and principal siege an exact jour- 
 nal was kept by Sir Hugh Cholmley, who bravely 
 defended it, for above a twelve-month, against it's 
 assailants. But this record has, unfortunately, 
 perished. 
 
 From other documents however, written by the 
 same gallant officer, we learn that in 1644 Sir 
 John Meldrum, a Scotch soldier of fortune employ- 
 ed by the parliament, after taking Scarborough by 
 storm, regularly invested it's castle. Sir Hugh 
 Cholmley it's governor, who had at first been an 
 active partisan against the King, but under some 
 disgust had recently come over to the royal party, 
 sustained a tedious siege with extraordinary re. 
 
 dominion obtained by this successful stratagem! After the 
 Castle had been held for two days, the Earl of Westmore- 
 land, attended by a formidable power, recovered it without 
 loss. Stafford, with some of his principal followers, was 
 sent to London ; where, after lyinfigtfbr some time in the 
 Tower, they were tried, condemned, and executed. Thig 
 transaction happened in the rebellion of Sir Thomas Wyat 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 75 
 
 solution and fortitude. Of the neighbouring 
 gentlemen, and their adherents, not a few retired 
 into the castle in aid of it's loyal garrison, or for 
 their personal security. With memorable affection 
 and nobleness of spirit, Lady Cholmley determined 
 to remain at any risk, rather than to abandon her 
 husband. Her humane attentions to the sick and 
 wounded, as exemplary instances of female 
 tenderness and magnanimity, well destrve both 
 gratitude and fame.* 
 
 * Extract from Sir Hugh Cholmley's own Memoir. "At 
 the beginning of February following, the siege began of 
 Scarborough town : be seat into Holland two of his chil- 
 dren ; but Lady Cholmley would not forsake him, but deter- 
 mined on facing all danger she continued with him the 
 twelve months, during the siege of the town and castle. 
 She endured much hardship, yet with little show of trouble, 
 and in the greatest danger would never be daunted, but 
 showed a courage above her sex ; and while they were be- 
 sieged in the castle, she did not omit to visit the sick persons, 
 and to take extraordinary care of them, making such help 
 and provisions as the place would afford ; insomuch as her 
 maids were so overwrought and toiled with it, as one of them 
 in the night stole away, thinking to get into the town. But 
 the enemy's guards, taking her for a spy, caused her to re- 
 turn, which was acceptable to his lady ; there not being 
 sufficient persons in health, to attend the sick. At the sur- 
 render of the castle, she procured an article, that the garri- 
 son at his house at Whitby might be removed, and she have 
 the liberty to live in it: but the captain in possession, liked 
 ihe place so well, he would not quit it, until one of his ser- 
 vants died of the plague ; and before he durst return again,, 
 
76 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 After various successes on either side^ and a 
 long continuance of the siege, by which marfy of 
 the garrison-works were ruined, Meldrum in May 
 sent a menacing summons to Sir Hugh Cholmley, 
 requiring his immediate surrender. Upon it's re- 
 jection, two assaults took place ; the chief one di- 
 rected against the gate and entering port, and the 
 other a feint, at the farthest extremity of the line- 
 
 she unexpectedly (leaving her two daughters behind her, at 
 one Mr, Percy Hay's, near Mai ton) adventured over the 
 moors in a dangerous season, they being then covered with 
 a thick snow, and so got to the house and kept possession, 
 though in a sad condition. Her two sons were beyond sea; 
 and her girls she durst not bring thither, in respect of the 
 late illness. She was ill accommodated with all things ; the 
 house being plundered, having nothing but what she bor- 
 rowed, yet her spirit would not submit her to complain* 
 And when Sir John Meldrum had sent propositions to Sir 
 Hugh, with menaces that if they were not accepted, he 
 would that night be master of all the works and castle ; and 
 jn case one of his men's blood was shed, would not give 
 quarter to man or woman, but put all to the sword : Lady 
 Cholmley, conceiving Sir Hugh would more relent therein 
 in respect for her being there, came to him without any di- 
 rection or trouble, and prayed him that he would not, for any 
 consideration of her, do aught which might be prejudicial to 
 his honour or the King's affairs By the article of render, 
 they had liberty to march to the King, or of passing to go 
 bevond sea: and hearing the King was then removed into 
 Wales at Ragland, and Sir Hugh neither in bodily health 
 nor having force to serve him ; that he would in all likeli- 
 hood have died in the way, had he attempted to pass to the 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 77 
 
 wall toward the sea, where then stood Charles' 
 Fort. In the former the assailants, after having 
 penetrated as far as the inner gate at the foot of the 
 great square tower or keep, found themselves so 
 annoyed with showers of stones and other missiles, 
 that they were compelled to retreat. And in their 
 false attack, they were still more unfortunate ; 
 Meldrum, their general, having there received his 
 mortal wound. 
 
 From the time of this assault, the siege was 
 continued to July 1645 by Sir Matthew Boy uton, 
 who succeeded to the command of the parliament- 
 forces; and to him the castle surrendered, upon 
 honourable terms. Of relief, it's garrison could 
 no longer entertain a hope : and fatigue, hard fare, 
 and illness (for the scurvy raged among them) had 
 rendered them incompetent to the task of longer de. 
 fending themselves. The articles of capitulation 
 were much grumbled at (says Rushworth) by some 
 
 King;; he took a Ship at Bridlington, for Holland. His 
 brother Henry Cholmley, when he came out of the castle, 
 sent him 2001 ., which he distributed among the officers and 
 soldiers, to relieve their distresses ; leaving his wife not 
 above 10/. in her purse, and himself not above 51, mare 
 than would discharge his passage." 
 
78 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 of the parliament-party, as too favourable. They 
 were in substance chiefly as follows: "That the 
 castie be surrendered, upon Friday next (being the 
 twenty-fifth day of July, 1645) by twelve o'clock 
 at noon. That the governor, Sir Hugh Choi al- 
 ley, and those officers and gentlemen-soldiers (if 
 he desire it) shall have a safe convoy from thence 
 into Holland. That no person whatsoever going 
 from the castle be plundered, or arrested. That 
 Lady Cholmley shall have liberty to live at her 
 own house in Whitby, and enjoy such part of her 
 estate, as is allowed by ordinance of parliament: 
 that she may have two men-servants, and two 
 horses, to carry such necessary things as shall be 
 granted her. That all inferior officers or common 
 soldiers, and others who have a desire to live at 
 home, shall have passes granted them for that end, 
 and shall not be forced to take up arms against 
 their minds. That all gentlemen of quality, and 
 clergymen have liberty to march ; gentlemen with 
 their swords ; that none of them carry above the 
 value of five pounds in money or plate about their 
 persons, and nothing in their cloak-bags but their 
 own wearing apparel, writings, evidences, or 
 bills." Beside thirty-seven pieces of ordnance 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 79 
 
 then found in this castle, there were one thousand 
 stand of arms, great store of powder, match, bul- 
 letSj and also 'much pillage.' 
 
 The second siege of the Town and Castle of 
 Scarborough was of shorter duration. In July 
 1648 Colonel Boynton, then governor, with his 
 garrison declared for the King. The town was 
 taken by storm on the fifteenth of September ; and 
 the castle surrendered by capitulation to Colonel 
 Bethell on honourable terms, the nineteenth of 
 December following ; being the last fortress, with 
 the exception of Pontefract, which evinced it's 
 attachment to the royal cause. 
 
 In 1666 it appears that Scarborough-Castle was 
 fully garrisoned, when Sir Jordan Crossland was 
 governor, and that many prisoners of state were 
 about that time confined within it's walls. Among 
 these was George Fox, the memorable quaker, 
 who was committed as deemed guilty of a praemu- 
 nire. In his Memoirs, he speaks of three different 
 rooms in which he was confined; one of them on 
 the sea-side, "lying much open, the wind drove in 
 the rain forcibly, so that the water came over his 
 
80 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 bed, and ran about the room, so that he was fain to? 
 skim it up with a platter." To the list of his suf«* 
 ferings and persecutions he adds, that "a three- 
 penny loaf lasted him three weeks, and some 
 times longer, and most of his drink was water with 
 wormwood steeped in it ! ■ " 
 
 The devastations of time, and the above two 
 formidable sieges, had reduced the castle to 
 little better than, a mass of ill-patched ruins; in 
 which condition it continued till the rebellion of 
 1745, when government gave it a temporary re- 
 pair, witfi'the view of preventing a surprise, and 
 deposited in it military stores (especially, of gun. 
 powder) to a great amount; 900 barrels of that 
 article being stored in the dungeon, under the keep 
 or tower. Warlike accoutrements also, and 
 stands of arms for 36,000 men, sent northward 
 for the supply of our army, were chiefly placed 
 here : the town-ditch w as cleared : all the avenues 
 were barricadoed : batteries were thrown up ; and 
 ninety-nine cannon mounted to defend the town.* 
 
 * See the Inscription en the wall without the town-gate. 
 
SCARBOROUGH, 81 
 
 In the centre of the line-wall bounding this bold 
 and picturesque object the Duke of Montagu, as 
 Master-General of the Ordnance in 1746, erected 
 a barrack for two companies of artillery. By the 
 Board of Ordnance it was, subsequently, resigned 
 to the Barrack-Office; and it now receives a part 
 of whatever infantry are ordered for the defence 
 of Scarborough, during war. 
 
 There is an excellent battery of eighteen poun- 
 ders, under the care of a small detachment of 
 invalid Royal Artillery. 
 
 The air upon the hill is so pure, that by Doctor 
 Mushet late physician to the army, and for many 
 years a constant attendant on Scarborough, it was 
 pronounced the best in England, when the wind 
 was not easterly : and, with the permission of the 
 late Marquis of Granby (then Master-General of 
 the Ordnance) he usually made one of the officer's 
 rooms in the barrack his summer's residence. 
 
 The only spring of water now remaining ap„ 
 pears under an arched vault in the castle-yard, by 
 gome deemed a cellar built under the chapel; by 
 
82 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 others a consecrated spring, as being still de- 
 nominated 'the Lady's Well.* It's appearance 
 in such a situation is, at any rate, extraordin- 
 ary. At a distance from the cliff-precipice of 
 about twenty-five yards, and three hundred 
 feet in perpendicular height above the sea, 
 with no high lands above or on it's level in it's 
 immediate vicinity, this reservoir contains about 
 forty tons of water ; and in the most remarkably 
 dry years (particularly that of 1765, when most 
 of the wells and springs throughout the district 
 were dried up) has experienced no diminution of 
 it's usual quantity. It has been ascertained to 
 be specifically lighter, by one ounce in the 
 Winchester gallon, than any other water in the 
 country. An engineer, who superintended build- 
 ing the barracks and other military works, had the 
 curiosity to search from what source the Lady's 
 Well was supplied. Hg dug round it in every 
 direction to a considerable depth, and found that 
 drains or conveyances were laid underground, so 
 as to carry thither whatever rain-water should fall 
 on the area of the castle-hill. If we reflect that 
 upon every square inch of surface at least twenty* 
 geven cubic inches of water on an average annually 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 83 
 
 fall, such supply will be held as of consequence ; 
 though it will hardly, perhaps, account for the 
 entire phenomena. 
 
 The various destinies of the Castle are traced 
 with historical precision in the following short 
 Poem, * ascribed to the Rev. Francis Wrangham 
 of Hunmanby. 
 
 High on yon foreland's rugged brow, 
 Which beetles o'er the surge below, 
 Of yore in military show 
 
 A stately Fortress stood. 
 Seven centuries have roll'd away, 
 Since first those towers, with lichens grey, 
 Reflected bright the western ray 
 
 Upon the foaming flood. 
 
 Since first by Albemarle + it's crest 
 In war's accoutrements was drest, 
 
 * Extracted from 'Poetical Sketches of Scarborough,' a 
 work lately published with Views and Descriptions of it's 
 principal scenes. 
 
 + This Castle was built about the year 1136, by William 
 Le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, a nobleman 
 described by an early chronicler as juvenis strenuissimus, in 
 armis multum exercitatus, 
 
 Hinderwell's Hist, of Scarborough 
 
84 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 How many a gallant corse unblest 
 Has bleach'd it's walls around ! 
 
 For stormy have it's fortunes been ; 
 
 And, oft of battle-broils the scene, 
 
 It bears upon it's time-worn mien 
 The deep-indented wound. 
 
 Nor from the stroke of civil rage, 
 When hosts with kindred hosts engage, 
 And sire and son sad conflict wage, 
 
 Has Scarbro' singly bled. 
 Oft too the Scot, with onset rude, 
 Fierce issuing fromhii solitude, 
 His hands in borderer's gore imbrued, 
 
 The bolt of death has sped. 
 
 And lo ! through fields of flame and blood 
 
 Remorseless pouring like a flood, 
 
 They rush o'er moss, and wold, and wood! 
 
 'Tis Scotia's grim array. 
 By infant's scream and matron's shriek 
 Unsoften'd, southron spoil they seek : 
 But O, foul foray ers ! this your freak 
 
 Full dearly shall ye pay. 
 
 On Cuton-Moor, to your pale gaze 
 His standard * Albemarle displays ! 
 
 * In 1136 was fought on Cuton-Moor, near Northaller- 
 ton, between the Earl of £lberaarle and David King of 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 85 
 
 flallow'd by many a mystic phrase, 
 It's silken foldings flow ; 
 
 Scotland, the battle of the Standard; so called from a mast 
 borne upon a wheel-carriage, surmounted by a silver cross, 
 under which were suspended three banners dedicated to St. 
 Peter of York, St. John of Beverley, and St. Wilfrid of 
 Kipon. With this Standard in their van, the English count- 
 ed themselves invincible. Ralph, bishop of the Orkneys, 
 harangued, absolved, and blessed them before the engage- 
 ment; and, infirmity alone prevented Roger, Archbishop of 
 Yurk, from accompanying them to the field. Of the Scot- 
 tish infantry above 10,000 were left dead upon the field. 
 
 A memorable instance of humanity, recorded by J ire- 
 dus de Rievaulx, which took place immediately before this 
 celebrated battle, we need not apologise for inserting: 
 t% In the third year of King Stephen, Robert baron de Brus 
 of Skelton (Skelton-Castle) lord of forty -three lordships in 
 the Eastand West-Ridings of Yorkshire, and fifty-one in the 
 North-Riding, beside large possessions in Scotland, brought 
 his son and the whole of all the forces he could raise to join- 
 the northern British barons at Northallerton, where the 
 King's standard was erected, and all had rendezvous upon 
 notice and exhortation from the venerable Thurstan arch- 
 bishop of York, who had likewise caused all the clergy of 
 his diocese to repair personally thither with their crosses, 
 banners, &c, to defend the church and realm against the 
 rage of their barbarous invaders. When this noble baron be= 
 held the Englisb army diawn up ready for battle, the priests 
 and monks in their sacred vestments, with their crosses and 
 relics, walking amidst the ranks, exhorting and encouraging 
 the soldiers ; he being then a very aged person, exceeding 
 wealthy, likewise of grave deportment and singular elocu- 
 tion, made a speech to,, them with great dignity and 
 weight; wherein he represented to them, that though he 
 Was of right a subject to the king of England, nevertheless 
 
86 SCARBOROUGH 
 
 For there, as erst to Constantine, 
 The cross's silver splendors shine, 
 Arid broider'd characters divine 
 In rich effulgence glow. 
 
 from his youth he had been a friend and familiar to the king 
 of Scots ; and moreover, being an old soldier skilled in 
 military affairs, and not ignorant of the danger impending 
 (considering likewise the ancient friendship between him- 
 self and that king, and that he stood obliged to him not only 
 b}' the band of friendship, but by a kind of necessary fide- 
 lity) desired leave of his fellow-soldiers to go to him, with 
 purpose either to dissuade him from fighting or friendly to 
 leave him. Whereupon, coming into the Scots king's pres- 
 ence, he told him that 'what he had to advise should be 
 'honourable to himself, and profitable to his realm: adding, 
 'that the English had been his best friends, and that they had 
 'so approved themselves to Duncan and Edgar, his brothers, 
 'in their greatest exigencies ; instancing in sundry particu- 
 lars, wherein they had obliged him, when he stood most in 
 'need of their aid 5 demonstrating likewise the unavoidable 
 'consequences of war, which were mutual rapine, spoil, and 
 'destruction ; and that though the Scots army Was more 
 'numerous, yet were the English more valiant and strong, 
 'resolved to conquer or die.' These expressions so deeply 
 affected the guilty and cruel king's mind, that he burst into 
 tears, andf would have condescended to a peaceable agree- 
 ment, but that William his nephew, a person of savage 
 disposition and brutal courage, the chief instigator of this 
 invasion, came in, and with great fury charged Robert 
 baron de Brus with treachery, dissuading the king from 
 harkening to him. Whereupon, returning with sorrow to 
 the English host, preparation was immediately made for 
 battle, which took place, and the event was a most glorious 
 and decisive victory to the English. '* 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 87 
 
 And venerable bishops there 
 Lift high their feeble arms in air, 
 With pious rite and fervent prayer 
 
 Invoking Heaven to bless: 
 Nor shrink they from the bannerd fields 
 To plumed casques where mitres yield ; 
 Nor shun the patriot blade to wield, 
 
 The flying foe to press. 
 
 But not with Scottish blood-drops wet 
 That sword could charm Plantagenet, 
 Or guard the princely coronet 
 
 On Albemarle's red brow : 
 Not zeal for England's honour shown 
 From royal wrath could shield his own, 
 Nor all his laurel-wreath'd renown 
 
 Avert the lightning blow. * 
 
 His vassal hinds and yellow strand 
 Obey another chief's command ; 
 And, echoing o'er the orphan'd land, 
 
 The stranger's horn is heard : 
 'Tis Ebor's crosier'd lord I ween, 
 Whose standand flouts Ihe drooping scene, 
 "Where yon proud rock o'erhar.gs the green, 
 
 In pomp prelatic rear'd. 
 
 * On the accession of Henry it., Albemarle being 
 deprived of his government rebelled : and through the in- 
 tercession of the archbishop Roger alone obtained hi* 
 fevereign's pardon. 
 
 M 
 
88 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Boots not young Bardolph's * fate to te\% 
 "Who by his monarch's mandate fell, 
 When back from Acre's citaiel 
 
 (Besmear'd with pay nim gore) 
 And treacherous Austria's dungeon-cave, 
 Bounding across the ocean wave, 
 Great Ceeur de Lion wildly brave 
 
 Re-trod his native shore. 
 
 O blame not thou the red-cross zeal 
 Which sharpen'd Europe's pious steel, 
 To win the tomb, where myriads fell, 
 
 Of Him who died for all : 
 Though famine perch'd upon their board ; , 
 And many a noble heart was gored 
 By Saladin's heroic sword 
 
 Beneath the Holy Wall! 
 
 Yet blessed they, who 'mid the storm, 
 Where death display'd his grisliest form, 
 Their breasts with patriot passion warm, 
 Bore from the field of strife 
 
 * The younger son of Lord Bardolph, appointed in ll£rf 
 to the command of Scarborough Castle by Richard I., with 
 whom he was a great favourite. During that prince's ab- 
 sence in the Holy Land, he was guilty of various misdemean- 
 ors, which cost him his ofiice. William de Dacre, of the 
 North, was appointed by Henry III. ; and John and 
 William de Vesci (brothers), successively, by Edward I. 
 ta the same splendid station. 
 
SCARBOROUGH. S9 
 
 Arts, which with flowers of Eden drest 
 The wildernesses of the west; 
 And, giving eacial hours their zest, 
 The courtesies of life ! 
 
 Great names it next was thine to boast, 
 Dread Empress of Brjgantia's coast ; 
 Nor may they, in oblivion lost, 
 
 Escape the muse's eye : 
 She notes where, flaunting in the beam 
 Of noon-day suns, with golden gleam 
 The northern Dacre's banners stream 
 
 Athwart the azure sky. 
 
 And there with rival radiance glows 
 De Vesci's helm, whose sovereign chose 
 To give his mailed limbs repose 
 
 Within thy pleasant halls ; * 
 Ere thundering o'er the Scottish strand, 
 He twangs the bow and hurls the brand, 
 And his by battle-right the land 
 
 Triumphantly he calls. 
 
 Nor leave we Gaveston + unsung:, 
 Carnarvon's minion, stout in wrong, 
 
 * Edward I. resided for some time in Scarborough Castle. 
 
 HlNDERWBLL. 
 
 -r This noble Gascon was 'a goodly personage, of a haughty 
 and undaunted spirit, brave and hardy inarms* $ as he showed 
 
90 SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Supple and stiff by turns, whose tongue 
 
 With insolent disdain 
 Braved England's barons to the joust; 
 Whose sinewy arm's resistless thrust 
 Overthrew her mightiest in the dust, 
 
 On Berkshire's tourney'd plain. 
 
 Yet for the prince's dear-bought choice 
 The Gascon's manly soul and voice, 
 Which made the listener's heart rejoice, 
 
 Some frail excuse might lend : 
 No vulgar sycophant was he, 
 Bending for wealth the sordid knee, 
 But train d to feats of chivalry — 
 
 A great, though guilty friend. 
 
 Witness, ye fields of Munster green, 
 And Thomond, of his toils the scene j 
 When Ireland, shrinking at his mien, 
 Pled from the mortal shock : 
 
 himself in the tournament he held at Wallingford, where he 
 challenged and foiled the flower of the English nobility, 
 which more inflamed their malice against him. In Munster 
 and Thomond likewise, as lieutenant of Ireland, he per- 
 formed everywhere great service with much valour and 
 worthiness. When he at last, in 1312, surrendered Scar- 
 borough Castle (of which he ^vas governor) to the Earl of 
 Pembroke, the articles of capitulation were totally disre- 
 garded, and he was beheaded. 
 
 (Ed,) 
 
SCARBOROUGH. S 1 
 
 But nought avail his gallant deeds, 
 In vain the foe's pledged faith he pleads ; 
 By vengeful Pembroke's axe he bleeds 
 Upon the patriot block ! 
 
 "Now Mowbray, * Beau champ court my quill ; 
 And well my swelling verse might fili 
 Percy, De Burgh, and Somerville 
 
 Willi acts of bold emprise : 
 Nor will I not transmit to fame 
 Fitzwilliam, ever-honour'd name ! 
 When Yorkshire still, with loud acclaim, 
 
 Re-echoes to the skies. 
 
 And he on whom no parent smiled, 
 Glo'ster, + by many a crime defiled, 
 With her his flattering tongue beguiled, 
 
 These gilded cushions prest; 
 Happ} r , ere Bosworth's fatal right 
 Gave Richmond to his aniious sight, 
 Within the tomb's protecting night 
 
 Here had he sunk to rest ! 
 
 * Ralph Fitzwilliam, John de Mowbray, Giles de BelU 
 Campo(or Beauchamp), Henry de Percy, Alexander de 
 Burgh, and Roger de Somerville, aie all found in the list of 
 governors of Scarborough Castle. 
 
 + Richard III., after his coronation in 1483, visited Scar- 
 borough with Anne, his queen, and resided for some time in 
 the Castle. 
 
92 SCARBOROUGH, 
 
 But my faint step denies to trace 
 Through years remote each noble race,^ 
 To whom this ancient pile to grace 
 
 By favouring fate was given : 
 Yet ere from it's loved towers I turn, 
 Befits to clasp the tear-stain'd urn 
 Of beauteous Cholmley, + changeless borne 
 
 To bloom a saint in heayen. 
 
 Cholmley ! — oh could I breathe that name, 
 Nor tingled at the sound my frame, 
 Nor glow'd afresh thy hallow'd flame, 
 
 Pure Friendship, in my mind — 
 Remembering many a letter'd hour 
 In Bransby's sweet sequestered bower, 
 Dead weie I to each generous power, 
 
 Which thrills and melts our kind. 
 
 Backward I bend my sad regard, 
 Where Stuart with his country warr'd, 
 And Falkland here, there Hampden bared 
 His breast to civil rage : 
 
 * Such as St. Quiniin, Lumley, Ever3 (or Eure) Boyn- 
 ton, Robinson, &c» 
 
 + The wife of Hugh Cholmley, who latterly held the 
 Castle for Charles I. — See Hinderwell, p. 79 ; and for his 
 lady's heroic fortitude, surpassing beauty, and great bene- 
 volence, see p. 85—87 
 
SCARBOROUGH. 95 
 
 Alas ! that natures form'd for love, 
 
 Whom all the loftier passions move, 
 
 Such stern antipathies should prove, 
 
 Such deadly feuds should wage ! 
 
 Even in that spirit-stirring hour, 
 "When o'er the crest of despot power 
 War's crimson cloud was seen to lower, 
 
 In gloom disastrous spread ; 
 'Twas thine, with erring ardor warm, 
 Proud fort (though shatter'd was thy form) 
 For faithless Charles to brave the storm, 
 
 Which burst on Cholmley's head. 
 
 And see ! his angel consort, calm 
 While furious hosts dispute the palm, 
 With healing drugs, religion's balm, 
 
 The anguish'd pillow tends ; 
 Nor, to her bosom-feelings true, 
 Inquires with party's narrow view, 
 Whose brow she steeps in pity's dew, 
 
 A foeman's or a friend's. 
 
 Such feelings thou, of wedded love 
 Chaste model, Hutchinson, * did'st prove. 
 When legions round thee madly strove 
 In dire fraternal fray ; 
 
 * See 'Memoirs of Colonel Hutchinson,' by his widsw 
 Lucy, a most interesting piece of biography. 
 
9 r i SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 Though, in a different cause, o'erplied 
 For liberty, thy soldier died : 
 Virtue, nor bound to rank nor side, 
 Holds on her steadfast way. 
 
 — But, hark ! as from yon holy fane 
 The bell proclaims the hour, in vain 
 I clasp it — ghost-like^ from my brain 
 
 The light illusion flies ! 
 No more around that foreland's brow 
 Imagination's phantoms glow ; 
 Where, Dacre — Cholmley, where art thou ? 
 
 All melted in the skies ! 
 
 And now, of all the pageant sheen 
 Quick-flitting o'er the trophied scene, 
 ^Memorial of what once hath been, 
 
 No glittering wrecks remain ! 
 Before mine eye, uncharm'd, is spread 
 Of vulgar roofs the crescent red, 
 And heaving on it's pebbled bed, 
 
 The blue and billowy main. 
 
HACKNESS. 95 
 
 RIDES . 
 
 Among those Hackness, romantically situated 
 about six miles N. W. of Scarborough, stands de- 
 cidedly foremost. The direct road, lately very much 
 improved, is by the villages of Newby and Scalby ; 
 and the excursion may be agreeably diversified, by 
 returning along the bank of the Derwent through 
 the beautifully-wooded Forge-Valley to Ayton 
 upon the York road, 
 
 The accomplished Hilda, descended from the 
 king of Northumbria, had in this neighbourhood 
 long exerted her influence and abilities for the 
 service of religion and learning. To her the minds 
 and morals of a hardly-civilised people were in- 
 debted for a great part of their improvement. 
 And after a series of the noblest efforts to 
 promote the cause of virtue and religion, she at 
 length succeeded in completing one of the first 
 and greatest ecclesiastical establishments of her 
 time, the monastery, church, and abbey of Strean- 
 shall, or Whitby. At last, exhausted by her exer- 
 tions, in the delightful vale of Hackness she took 
 
 N 
 
96 HACKNESS. 
 
 up her temporary abode. For the accommodation 
 of herself and eight attendant nuns, a small cell 
 was prepared where the old Manor-Hall lately 
 Stood; and here they enjoyed needful repose, 
 without however abandoning those holy offices, to 
 which they had originally devoted themselves.* 
 
 This cell or monastery, it has been generally 
 supposed, was destroyed by the Danes, in some of 
 their invasions under Hubba and Inguar ; and the 
 one, afterward founded by Abbot Cerlo, was erec- 
 ted upon it's ruins. The dining-room and hall of 
 the old Manor-House constituted it's refectory,. 
 At the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry 
 VIII., four monks of the Benedictine order were 
 all that remained of this establishment. The 
 tithes were impropriated, and twenty pounds a,, 
 year assigned out of them, for the support of the 
 officiating curate. 
 
 * The abbess Hilda, and her inseparable companion 
 Bega, an Irish lady of distinguished rank and sanctity, were 
 beyond all their contemporaries occupied in instructing 
 youth of both sexes (but, more especially, of their own) in 
 the orthodoxy and the accomplishments of their times. In 
 after-days, every abbey had at least one person, whose 
 office it was to educate youth. Godstow-Nunnery in Ox- 
 fordshire, continued the central seminary for young women 
 
ha£kness. 97 
 
 For the more interesting particulars of the his- 
 tory of the lady Hilda, who in after-times was 
 canonised, the curious are referred to Mr. Charl- 
 ton's 'History of Whitby/ Her general character, 
 selected from Venerable Bede, is inscribed under 
 an urn dedicated to her memory in Hackness 
 church : "This servant of Christ, the Abbess Hilda, 
 whom all that knew her called 'mother' for her 
 singular piety and grace, was not only an example 
 of good life to such as lived in her monastery 3 but 
 also afforded occasion of reformation to many that 
 lived at a distance, to whom the fame of her virtue 
 and integrity was brought. By her own example, 
 she admonished all persons to serve God dutifully, 
 while in perfect health ; and likewise to praise and 
 humbly to return him thanks, when under any ad- 
 versity or bodily infirmity. Her life was a light 
 of example, to all that desired to live well. She 
 died A. D. 680, aged 66 ; having lived thirty- 
 three years most nobly and royally in a secular 
 habit." * 
 
 of quality in the south (as Whitby had been for the north) 
 to the time of Henry VIII. ; who, though powerfully soli- 
 cited in it's favour, sordidly refused to spare it. v 
 
 * "Walter Scott, in his •Marmion,' has introduced St. 
 Hilda and her Nuns, with a very striking affect. And 
 
98 HACKNESS. 
 
 The monumental inscriptions, in Hackness 
 church, are not numerous* Two of some length 
 in the chancel record the ages and demise of two 
 of the Hobbys, a family now extinct, to whom it 
 belonged. The last, in letters of gold upon black 
 marble, preserves the memory of Sir Thomas 
 Posthumous Hobby, born four years after his 
 father's death. * 
 
 Mason in his 'Argentiie and Curan' has very graphically 
 described the peculiar beauties of Hackness, as 
 
 — " a pleasant valley, rather say 
 
 A nest of sister vales, o'erhung with hills 
 Of varied form and foliage ; every vale 
 ■ Had it's own proper brook, the which it hugg'd 
 In it's green breast, as if it fear'd to lose 
 The treasured crystal. You might mark the course 
 Of this cool rill more by the ear, than eye, 
 For though they oft would to the sun unfold 
 Their silver as they past, 'twas quickly lost ; 
 And ever did they murmur. On the verge 
 Of one of these clear streams there stood a cell 
 O'ergrown with moss aud ivy ; near to which, 
 On a fall'n trunk that bridged the little brook, 
 A hermit sat. Of him we ask'd the name 
 Of that sweet valley, and he call'd it Hackness." 
 
 (Poems, hi.) 
 
 * From the monument it appears, that Lady Margaret 
 Hobby was born in 1570, and bmied in 1633, aged 63. 
 Sir Thomas Posthumous Hobby, born in 1570, died in 1640 r 
 aged 70. "Said Margaret disposed of herself in marriage 
 unto Sir Thomas Posthumous Hobby knt., the second son of 
 Sir Thomas Hobby knt, who died in Paris in the year 1566!** 
 
FILEY, $9 
 
 Another pleasing ride, having great extent and 
 variety of prospect, is to Oliver's Mount, or 
 Weaponness, lately rendered conveniently acces- 
 sible by a road of very practicable ascent, and 
 affording a beautiful drive round the summit. 
 
 In the introduction to this work, the objects 
 in a westerly direction most worthy of a stranger's 
 attention, have been already described. South- 
 ward however, in addition to the neighbouring 
 Cornelian, and Cay ton-Mill bays, which justly 
 attract a considerable portion of notice, 
 
 FILET, 
 
 A small fishing town about eight miles S. E. of 
 Scarborough, is much visited. It is particularly 
 celebrated for it's excellent fish and lobsters. The 
 sands, which sweep round a beautifully-curved bay 
 of four or five miles in extent, are bounded on the 
 north by a remarkable ridge of rock, projecting 
 nearly half a mile into the sea, and distinguished 
 by the name of Filey-Bridge.* Their southern 
 limit, is a stupendous range of chalk-cliffs, run- 
 
 * This is thought to resemble the celebrated Mole of 
 Tangier in Africa, 
 
 LofC. 
 
100 FtLEY. 
 
 Ming onward to Flambrough.Head. Abotre this 
 very striking bay 5 and commanding all it's vane* 
 ties of sublimity and of beauty 5 in the midst of 
 iine plantations^ which at once afford it shelter 
 and embellishment (decus et presidium) stands 
 the pleasant village of Hunmanby ; * of which a 
 more particular account will be found both in the 
 Beauties of England and Wales, Vol. XVI. and 
 Hinderwell's excellent History of Scarborough. 
 
 The aspect of the coast, the fishing-business^ 
 and an examination of it's strand^ generally amuse 
 as much time as strangers, who mean to return in 
 the evening, wish to employ. 
 
 * About four miles to the south-west from Hunmanby an 
 obli.sk, erected by Edward Topham Esq., denotes the place 
 where the celebrated Stone fell in Dec. 1795. 
 
 Mr. James Wallace, minister of Kirkwall, inhisdescrip* 
 tion of the isles of Orkney observes t "The air and clouds 
 here, by the operation of the sun, sometimes generate 
 strange things 5 for instance, not many years since, while 
 some fishermen were fishing half-a-league from land over 
 against Copinsha in a fair day, there fell down from the air 
 a stone about the bigness of a foot-ball : it fell in the midst 
 of the boat, and sprung a leak in it, to the great hazard -of 
 the lives of the men who were in it. The stone was like 
 condensed or petrified clay, and was a long time in the 
 custody of Captain Andrew Dick, at that time steward of 
 tfie country." 
 
FLAMBROUGH HEAD. 101 
 
 FLAMBROUGH HEAD,* 
 
 The easternmost point of view from Scarborough, 
 is about eighteen miles distant. Parties are often 
 formed to visit it by water, in August and Septem- 
 ber; though it's peculiarities are most striking 
 about the beginning of June. The crag of this 
 place, of a white crumbling rock, is from one to 
 about three hundred feet in perpendicular height; 
 full of small cavities and projecting ledges, which 
 afford both resting-places and recesses for nests 
 to an inconceivable multitude of dilferent sea-fowl. 
 At their foot, which the sea washes, are many 
 caverns, one in particular (called 'Robin Lyth's 
 Hole') of magnificent dimensions. This range of 
 cliff, forming divers little bays for an extent of 
 about six miles, is in moderate weather so covered 
 with awks, gulls, black guillimotes, kittywakes, 
 puffins, cormorants, and sea-parrots, that an idea 
 can hardly be conveyed of their numbers and va- 
 rieties. It must be seen, to be comprehended; and, 
 
 * "DeTdajprimo Northumbriorum Regf\"Idavenitcum 
 40. [180] Navibns adFlambrngbjuxta 'Scarbruch.' 
 
 Leland, Col. III. 44. 
 
102 FLAMBRQUGH HEAD. 
 
 $nce seen, will never be forgotten ! The contem- 
 plation of a cliff, thus "covered with hatching-birds 
 (says Dr. Goldsmith) affords a very agreeable 
 entertainment; and as they sit upon the ledges of 
 the rocks, one above another, with their white 
 breasts forward, the whole group has not unaptly 
 been compared to the view of an apothecary's 
 shop ! In breeding too, they have frequent con- 
 tests : one bird, who has no nest of her own, 
 attempts to dispossess another, and put herself in 
 the place. This often happens among all the gull- 
 kind ; and I have seen the poor bird, thus displa- 
 ced by her more powerful invader, sit near the nest 
 in pensive discontent, while the other seemed quite 
 comfortable in her new habitation ! Yet this 
 place of pre-eminence is not easily obtained ; for 
 the instant the invader goes to snatch a momentary 
 sustenance, the other enters upon her own, and 
 always ventures another battle, before she relin- 
 quishes the justness of her claim !" In the month 
 of May and June they lay their eggs, and hatch 
 their young, in a situation apparently inaccessible 
 to any but the winged part of the creation. Yet 
 what is safe from the appetite, or avarice, of man ! 
 By means of stakes driven into the ground above, 
 
JXAMBROUGH HEAP. 103 
 
 urid ropes made fast to them, persons of light 
 r/eight are let down the face of the rock with 
 baskets, who rob the nests of eggs, and send them 
 in loads to the sugar. works at Hull, &c. Notwith- 
 standing these depredations, however, their usual 
 increase seems to suffer no visible diminution ! It 
 would be idle to attempt describing the effect pro- 
 duced by such myriads of birds, thickly spread 
 cer this vast wall of rock, more than two leagues 
 in length, all confusedly following their differ- 
 ent pursuits; croaking, screaming, feeding their 
 clamorous young, calling the mates, soaring or 
 settling on their nests, some in groups floating 
 like a distant navy on the water ; others skimming 
 along it's surface in search of food : but, if a gun 
 is fired, all within reach of it's terrifying sound 
 leave their occupations — nay, their nests and 
 young ; rush together in dark clouds of complain- 
 ants, remonstrating, as it were, on the cruelty of 
 such unprovoked invasions, upon so harmless and 
 secluded a tribe S Many of the birds of beautiful 
 plumage, diversified forms, and gay colours, to be 
 seen to advantage should be viewed by a near 
 approach to the rock ; which can only be safely 
 effected, however, in very calm weather* E?ea 
 o 
 
104 FLAMBROUGH HEA0, 
 
 then, trie solemn roar 4 of the waves running ini® 
 the huge caverns beneath, and returning in Vast 
 momentary cascades, added to the immense sur- 
 face spread around, the confused din of screams 
 over head — in short, the various unusual circum- 
 stances on every side — fill the mind with a new 
 and sublime train of ideas I The Light-House, 
 also with it's splendid revolving lamps, forms- 
 a very striking additional object of philosophical 
 curiosity,, * 
 
 Burlington, about four miles from Flam- 
 borough, and eighteen from Scarborough, affords 
 a commodious headquarter for those who wish to 
 make the preceding excursion chiefly by land : 
 Thence, to the village of Flamborough, the road ifr 
 exceedingly good over an open country, with a fine 
 command of Burlington- Bay ; passing the seats 
 of John Greame, Esq. of Sewerby, and Ralph 
 Creyke, Esq. of Marton, the latter very near. + 
 
 * To the praiseworthy exertions of Benjamin Milne, Esq. 
 the nation is principally indebted for this very useful 
 section. 
 
 f About a mile to the south of Bridlington, lies Bessing* 
 by, the very beautiful seat of Harrington Hudson, Esq. 5 
 two miles westward, in a fertile valley, amidst some finely 
 
FLAMBROUGH HEAD* 106 
 
 At Flamborough, a guide may easily be obtained, 
 who will conduct the stranger to the most interest- 
 ing scenes. 
 
 Ida the Saxon, who first subdued this part of 
 Great-Britain, landed at Flamborough. It's name 
 Fleamburg is supposed to relate to a light-house, 
 beacon, or watch-tower, originally established 
 on it's cliff. This little village, it appears from 
 Sir William Dagdale and others, gave birth to 
 the very respectable family of the Constables of 
 Flamborough. The manor and estate belonged to 
 Harold, Earl of the West-Saxons, afterward King 
 of England, who lost his life in defending his 
 crown against the Norman Invader. It subse. 
 quently passed by gift to William le Gros, Earl 
 of Albemarle and Holderness, the founder of 
 Scarborough-Castle, who married a niece of Wil- 
 liam I. It appears to have been strongly defended 
 by ditches and ramparts, especially toward the 
 land, as may be perceived in a deep valley traver- 
 sed by the road from Burlington. 
 
 grown wood, Boynton, (Sir William Strickland's) and twp 
 miles farther in the same direction, Thorpe, the mansion of 
 the Hon, Major-General Bosville. 
 
106 FLAMBROUGH HEAP. 
 
 Sir Robert 1g Constable and his fishermen ai 
 ^Flayriburg* had a controversy respecting the tithe 
 of fish, which being terminated amicably, it was 
 agreed (says the record) "the prior and the con- 
 vent shall out of their grace give on every 
 Martinmas-day, in the ancient house of the court 
 of Flaynburg, to the whole consort of each fisher- 
 boat twelve loaves of white bread, and sixpence 
 for companage ; and to every the said fishers, four 
 flaggons; and to the governor (steersman) eight 
 ilaggons of ale accustomary : by the view of two 
 of the servants of the said Robert, and the prior 
 and convent, so as they may at their pleasure 
 drink the whole quantity of the said ale in the 
 house, or carry it away with them elsewhere." 
 After which the fishermen took their oaths, and 
 swore to acknowledge themselves excommunicate^ 
 if ihey broke this part of the contract ! 
 
 BRIDLINGTON, 
 
 (Commonly called Burlington) presents a grand 
 but gloomy vestige of it's once-magnificent pri- 
 ory, of which the church is now almost the sole 
 remain. 
 
bobin hood's ba£ 107 
 
 ROBIN HOOD'S BAY* 
 
 Lies to the N. E. of Scarborough , at a distance 
 ♦f about thirteen miles and a half. It is often 
 visited by strangers, attracted by the fame of the 
 alum-works in it's neighbourhood, + and the 
 peculiarity of it's grotesque appearance. 
 
 The quantity of fish which is dried at Robin 
 Hood's Bay, as well for home-consumption as for 
 exportation, is surprising. The fronts of it's houses 
 and the surface of it's paddocks are often covered 
 by them, as they are spread to dry. 
 
 The road to it is by no means good for car- 
 riages. On this account therefore, and also from 
 it's distance, it is usually visited by gentlemen 
 only. "An eye," says Dr. Johnson, "accus- 
 
 * What reference the name of this place has to the cele- 
 brated 'Earl of Huntington' is now, perhaps, no longer to be 
 ascertained. Probably he may have sought shelter in these 
 parts, at some period of his illegal archery, from the pursuit 
 of offended power ; as some butts for archers, near the spot, 
 still go by his name. 
 
 ■f Of these alum-works the curious 'Will find an accurate 
 account in Mr. Pennant's Tour. 
 
10S &OBIN hood's bay. 
 
 tomed to flowery pastures and waving harvests, U 
 astonished and repelled by a wild extent of 
 sterility ! Dismissed by nature from her carje^ 
 and undistinguished by her favours, left almost in 
 it's original state, with an uniformity of barren- 
 ness that can afford very little amusement to the 
 traveller; regions at rest mountainous and wild, 
 thinly inhabited and little cultivated ! — what must 
 be the solitude of him, who should be wandering 
 among these crags, bogs, and hollows; benighted, 
 ignorant, and alone ? " 
 
 From the alum-works to the village of Robin 
 Hood's Hay, the road which lies along the beach 
 under a steep cliff is occasionally, from the flowing 
 of the tide, impassable : nor is it reckoned safe 
 to attempt it, unless there be a wide space of sand 
 uncovered, or the tide be ebbing. A distance of 
 about seven miles farther northward, conducts the 
 traveller from this village to 
 
 WHITBY. 
 
 Whitby is a considerable town, distinguished 
 however principally by the success of it's whale- 
 fishery. Many lar^e ships, also, are built at this 
 
WHITBY. 100 
 
 place. It's upper buildings are singularly situa~ 
 ted on the two sides of a hill, divided by the small 
 river Esk ; whieh forms a spacious mud-harbour 
 at the back of the town, where a number of vessels 
 lie in safety among the ouze. The bason toward 
 the sea, and the pier, with the parish-church and 
 the ruins of St. Hilda's Abbey are noble features. 
 The Church is worth visiting, both on account of 
 the Cholmley monuments in it's chancel, and the 
 curious bee-hive stile of it's seats and galleries. 
 The Abbey, like many of the first ecclesiastical 
 edifices in Christendom, was erected in fulfilment 
 of a religious obligation contracted under a strong 
 sense of danger. Oswi King of the Northumbri- 
 ans, powerfully attacked by Penda King of Mercia, 
 vowed that if he overcame his enemies, he would 
 dedicate his daughter to perpetual virginity, and 
 give twelve manor-houses to be converted into 
 monasteries. In performance of this engagement 
 he devoted his only daughter, then scarcely one 
 year old, to a nunnery ; and the ground at that 
 time called Streanshall, uc-w Whitby, for building 
 a monastery, which was afterward accomplished 
 by St. Hilda. Oswi had offered Penda, as the 
 price of peace, " all the royal ornaments he was 
 
110 WHITBY, 
 
 possessed of, and a very large sum of money ; ** 
 but that monarchy old and obstinate, in proud relU 
 ance upon the numerical superiority of his forces, 
 refused all his overtures. Edilwald however the 
 nephew of Oswi 3 who had joined Penda 3 relenting 
 on the day of battle, withdrew from him in the 
 midst of the action : and the Mercian army, with 
 it's prince and thirty of his chieftains, was cut to 
 pieces. This great victory was speedily followed 
 by the submission of all Mercia. Such was the 
 origin of Whitby- Abbey. * 
 
 * For a more minute account of this venerable fabric, see 
 Charlton's 'History of Whitby.' 
 
 In Whitby-Abbey account-book, A. D. 1369, we find 
 an article charged in these words, Protewing XIV pellium 
 Luporum 01. Is. 9d. i. e. 4 for dressing or rendering supple 
 fourteen wolves' skins.' Item, pro Irete pro feris 01 6s. Sd. 
 i. e. 'a net to take wild beasts.' Wolves, as well as foxes 
 and boars, were at that time dangerously abundant in seve- 
 ral neighbouring districts. Of wolf-dogi kept to guard 
 travellers, we have authentic accounts at Flixton, near 
 Hunmanby, where King Athelstan formerly endowed an 
 hospital (hod. 'Spital') to receive benighted travellers, 
 and to maintain dogs for their protection. Certain sums of 
 money are to this day paid by many otherwise independent 
 estates, for the feeding of such dogs. It has already been 
 fetated, that the nuns of Yedingham were charged with the 
 weekly delivery of certain loavei of coarse-bread for (he 
 same purpose. 
 
KATTTRAL PRODUCTIONS. Hi 
 
 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 For the following catalogue of the less common 
 plants, which have been observed in this neigh- 
 bourhood, we are obliged to Mr. William Travis, 
 Surgeon. It will contribute much to the gratifi- 
 cation of such among our readers, as cultivate the 
 study of that* elegant and amusing branch of. 
 natural philosophy, botany. The list is arranged 
 systematically, with the addition of the places of 
 growth, and the time of flowering., 
 
 Pwguicula vulgaris. Common Butterwort. Bogs 
 below the Race-Ground. May. 
 
 Lemna trisulca. Ivy (eaved Duck-meat. Castle- 
 Yard. June — September. 
 
 Salvia verhenaca. Wild Sage, or Clary. Castle- 
 Dikes. June. 
 
 Eriophorum vaginatum. Single-headed Cotton- 
 grass. High Moors. May — June. 
 
 Agrostis stolonifera. Fiorin Grass. Spaw T -Cliff, 
 July. 
 
 Poa maritima. Sea Meadow-Grass. Near the 
 Pier. June. 
 
112 NATUHAE PRODUCTIONS 
 
 Planlago maritima. Sea Plantain. Near the 
 
 Castle. June-^July, 
 Camus suecica. Dwarf Honey-suckle. Hole of 
 
 Horcum 5 on the Moors. June — July. 
 Campanula latifolia* Broad-leared Bell-flower. 
 
 Lanes neaT Hackness. July — August. 
 Viola odorata. Var. White Violet. Hills near 
 
 Peaseholm. March — April. 
 Qrosera rotundifolia. Round-leayed Sundew. 
 
 Bog near the Mere. July — August. 
 Selanum dulcamara* Woody Night-Shade. 
 
 Weaponness. July. 
 Symrniumohisatrum. Alexanders. Castle-dikes. 
 
 June — July. 
 Sambucus ebulus. Dwarf Elder. CastleJDike& 
 
 July. 
 Narthecium ossifragum. Lancashire Asphodel, 
 
 Bogs on the Moors. July — August. 
 Triglochenmaritimum. Sea Arrow-Grass. Coast 
 
 near Filey. July. 
 Trientalis europcea. Chickenweed Wintergreen. 
 
 East-side of Seamer-Moor. May — June. 
 Vacciniwn oxycoccos* Cranberry. Bog in St 
 
 Thomas' Fields^ Seamer-Lane, June. 
 Daphne laureola. Spurge Laurel. Near Pease- 
 holm. March — ApriU 
 
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. IIS 
 
 Butomus umbellatus. Flowering Rush. Mere. 
 
 July. 
 Pyrola retundifolia. Round leaved Wintergreeo . 
 
 North-side of Seamer-Moor, July. 
 Pyrola minor. Lesser Wintergreen. East-side 
 
 of the Race-Ground. July. 
 Chrysosplenium oppositifolium. Opposite leaved 
 
 Sengreen. Raincliff-Wood. April — May. 
 Saxifraga granulata. White Saxifrage. Valley 
 
 beyond Chapman's Pasture. May. 
 Saponaria officinalis* Soap wort. Holms. 
 
 August— September. 
 Arenaria peploidcs. Sea Chickwecd. North- 
 Sand. {June — July. 
 Sedum acre. Pepper Stone-crop. Old Town's 
 
 Wall, Castle, &c. July. 
 Prunus padus. Bird Cherry, Banks of the 
 
 Derwent near Hackness,,, May. 
 Spirea filipendula. Drop wort. Cliffs near the 
 
 Nab. July. 
 Jlosa Spinosissima. Burnet-Rose. Near the 
 
 bottom of Raw-Brow. June. 
 Qomarum palustre. Marsh Cinquefoil, Bogs 
 
 near the Mere. June— July. 
 Nymphoea Alba. White Water Lily. Mere, 
 
 July — August. 
 
114 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Nuphar lutea. Yellow Water Lily. Mere* 
 
 July— August. 
 Cistus helianthemum. Dwarf Suiwflower. York 
 
 Road, four miles from Scarborough. July. 
 Digitalis purpurea. Fox-glove. Weaponness. 
 
 June — July. 
 Bunias cakile. Sea Rocket. North-Sand. 
 
 July — August. 
 Cardamine amara* Bitter Cuckow-flower. Near 
 
 Ayton-Forge. May. r 
 Geranium columbinum. Long-stalked Cranes- 
 bill. Near Ayton-Forge. July — August. 
 JLaihyrus sylvestris. Narrowleaved Pea -Ever- 
 lasting. Wood beyond Chapman's Pasture. 
 
 August. 
 Vicia sylvatica. Wood Vetch. Wood beyond 
 
 Chapman's Pasture, near Ayton-Forge, &c. 
 
 July — August. 
 Astragalus glyciphyllos. Liquorice-Vetch. Cliffs 
 
 near the White Nab. July — August. 
 Astragalus D aniens. Purple Liquorice- Vetch. 
 
 York Road, three miles and a half from 
 
 Scarborough. June — July. 
 Trifolium scabrum. Hard knotted Trefoil, Old 
 
 Town's Wall. May—June. 
 
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 115 
 
 Medkago lupulina, Trefoil Medic, Castle- 
 Hill. May — August. 
 
 Hypericum humifusum. Trailing St. John's Wort. 
 Hay-Brow. July. 
 
 Hypericum pulchrum. Upright St. John's Wort* 
 "Hay-Brow. July. 
 
 Carduus marianus. Milk-Thistle. Castle-Dikes, 
 August, 
 
 Cnicus eriophorus. Woolly-headed Thistle. 
 Hackness Roacl. August — September. 
 
 Carlina vulgaris. Wild Carline Thistle. North- 
 Cliffs. June — July. 
 
 Gnaphalium dioicum. Cat's Foot Cudweed. 
 Race-Ground. June. 
 
 Solidago virgaurea. Golden Rod. Race- 
 Ground. August. 
 
 Orchis brfolia. Butterfly Orchis. Moors, May — 
 July. 
 
 Ophrys ovata. Common Tway-blade. Wood 
 near the forge. May — June. 
 
 Ophrys cor data. Least Tway-blade. Race- 
 Ground. June — July. 
 
 Bryonia dioica. Bryony. Raincliff-wood. 
 June. 
 
 Empctrum nigrum. Black Crowberry. Seemer- 
 Moor. April — May. 
 
116 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Mgrica gale. Sweet Gale. Moors. May*— 
 June. 
 
 Humulus lupulus. JJops. Lane near the Com- 
 mon. July. - 
 
 Equisetum hyemale. Shave-grass. Near Ayton~ 
 Forge. August — September. 
 
 Osmunda regalis. Flowering Fern. JNear Ayton 
 forge. August — September. 
 
 Lgcopodium clavatum. Club^Moss. Race- 
 Ground. August. 
 
 Asplenium scolopendrium. Hart's Tongue. 
 Castle-Dikes. August — September. 
 
 Lichen Islandicus. Iceland Liverwort. Race* 
 Ground. 
 
 Fucus sanguineua. Dock-leaved Fucus. Shores 
 and rocks in the sea. January — December. 
 
 Fucus hypvglossum* Sharp tongue-bearing Fucus. 
 Ditto. May— October. 
 
 Fucus siliquosus. Podded Fucus. Ditto* 
 January — December. 
 
 Fucus serratus. Serrated Fucus. Ditto. Ditto* 
 
 Fucus vesiculosus. Oak-leaved Fucus. Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Fucus ceranoides* Suck's horn Fucus* Ditto. 
 June — November. 
 
NATtTCAL PRODUCTIONS. 117 
 
 Fucus alatus. Winged Fucus. Ditto. May- 
 October. 
 
 Fucus laciniatus r . Jagged Fucus. Ditto. April- 
 October. 
 
 Fucus saccharinus. Sweet Fucus. Ditto. January 
 — December. 
 
 Fucus digitatus. Fingered Fucus. Ditto. Ditto. 
 
 Fucus canaliculatus. Furrowed Fucus. Ditto. 
 June — August. 
 
 Fucus lorews. Narrow-leaved Fucus. Ditto. 
 June — September. 
 
 Fucus nodosus. Knotted Fucus. Ditto. May — 
 October. 
 
 Fucus pinncdifidus. Wing-cleft Fucus. Ditto. 
 Ditto. 
 
 Fucus coccineus. Scarlet Fucus. Ditto. June — 
 October. 
 
 Fucus plumosus. Feathered Fucus. Ditto. 
 August — October. 
 
 Fucus filunu Thread-leaved Fucus. Ditto. 
 January — December. 
 
 Fucus purjjurascens. Purple Fucus. May — 
 October. Shores. 
 
 Fucus capillaris. Capillary Fucus. Ditto. 
 August-»-SeptcinbfcF. 
 
118 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS. 
 
 Fucus articulatus. Jointed Fucus. Ditto, 
 
 December. 
 Fucus viridis. Green bushy Fucus,* Ditto. 
 
 June — September. 
 Ulva factum. Oyster Ulva. Ditto. January — 
 
 December. 
 Ulva umbilicalis. Navel Ulva. Ditto. Ditto, 
 Ulva compressa. Fiat Ulva. Ditto. Ditto. 
 Uha plumosa. Feathered Ulva. Ditto. April — . 
 
 October, 
 Conferva cerea. Sea-green Conferva. Ditto. 
 
 June — October. 
 Conferva diaphana. Dotted Conferva. Ditto. 
 
 January — December. 
 Conferva spongiosa. Sponge Conferva. Ditto. 
 
 January — December. 
 Conferva rubra Red Conferva. Ditto. May — 
 
 October. 
 Conferva coccinea. Scarlet Conferva. Ditto, 
 
 January — December. 
 Conferva parasitica. Feathered Conferva. Ditto, 
 
 Ditto. 
 Conferva pennata* Feathered Conferva. Ditto. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
FISH, &C 110 
 
 FISH BROUGHT TO SCARBOROUGH, 
 AND THE MODE OF TAKING THEM. 
 
 The principal fish brought to Scarborough for 
 sale are cod, haddock, ling, scate, hollibut, cod- 
 ling, herrings, turbot, whiting, parr, billits, cole- 
 fish, lobsters, crabs, and shrimps* The season for 
 cod has been erroneously supposed to be altogether 
 confined to the winter-months: as a proof how- 
 ever, to the contrary, many of them are daily seen 
 in the market in June, July, and August, in the 
 greatest condition. Besides, during those months, 
 both on these coasts and on the banks of New- 
 foundland, immense quantities in" the highest 
 perfection are taken and salted for the winter- 
 consumption of the catholic world. The healthy 
 and fine fish are caught on a rocky bottom ; and 
 this coast chiefly consists of covered rocks, occa- 
 sionally intermixed with sand, which both shelter 
 crabs, lobsters, &c. and produces the most accept- 
 able food for the larger species of fish. 
 
 It may be in general remarked, that after June 
 the fish taken on this coast are, for the most part, 
 Q 
 
120 fish, &c. 
 
 good, Soals are seldom brought in any abundance- 
 to (his market, but are to be found of a superior 
 species, in all the sandy bays of the neighbourhood,, 
 particularly at Filey. The whole coast, indeed,. 
 is richly supplied with varieties of excellent fish. 
 
 There are two kinds of boats used by the fish- 
 ermen at this port, which differ from those in the 
 south, viz. the coble, and the five-men-boat. The 
 coble is twenty feet six inches long, five feet in 
 extreme breadth, wide-floored and nearly flat- 
 bottomed ; about one ton burthen, and rowed with 
 three pair of short oars or skulls, occasionally 
 stepping a mast and hoisting a lug-sail. This is said 
 to be an admirable boat; but we hardly know any 
 port in Europe, where the same is not asserted of 
 constructions as different, as we can well suppose 
 to be used on the same element* The five-men- 
 boat is forty feet long, fifteen broad, clincher-built, 
 and twenty-five tons burthen ; navigated by six 
 men and a boy, but called ^a five-men-boat,' from 
 the number who share in it's profits ; the addi- 
 tional man and boy are hired to cook, &c. for 
 the co-owners. A fishing coble is attended by 
 three men •/ each, of whom is provided with fliEe«j 
 
Ftsn, Sic. 121 
 
 lines neatly coiled upon an oblong basket con* 
 structed for the purpose. Their hooks are baited, 
 and placed regularly in the centre of the coil : 
 each line is furnished with 280 hooks, at six feet 
 two inches distance from each other. The hooks 
 are fastened to strong horse^hair lines, twenty*, 
 seven inches in length. Nine of these larger lines 
 fastened together extend about three miles, and are 
 furnished with above 2,500 hooks. An anchor 
 and buoy axe fixed at each end of the line, and one 
 at the end of each man's sets; in all, four anchors 
 and four buoys. The line is always laid across 
 the current, The tides of flood and ebb continue 
 an equal time on this coast, running (when undis- 
 turbed by winds) six hours each way. They are 
 so rapid, that the fishermen can only shoot and 
 haul their lines at the turn of the tide : consequent- 
 ly, the lines always remain upon the ground about 
 six hours. The same rapidity of tide prevents their 
 using hand-lines. 
 
 The five-men-boats in September proceed to the 
 herring.fishery at Yarmouth, and return in No- 
 vember ; after which, they are generally laid up 
 until the beginning of Lent. The fishermen then 
 
122 FISH, &c. 
 
 go off to the edge of the Dogger Bank and other 
 places, taking two cobles on board ; and on coming 
 to an anchor, fish from their boats in the same 
 manner as those who go from the shore in a coble. 
 They commonly run into harbour twice a. week to 
 sell their fish. These boats are decked at each 
 end, but open in the middle, and carry two con- 
 siderable lug-sails : they are remarkably swift 
 sailers, but being built very slight, require great 
 management in a heavy sea. 
 
 Some unaccountable superstitions are still retain- 
 ed among the fishermen. When proceeding out 
 to sea they will not, upon any account whatever, 
 litter a single word : the whole preparation, as 
 well as embarkation, is carried on in the most 
 profound silence. Whatever it may accidentally 
 be necessary to express, is done by significant 
 signs; nor does this water-pantomime conclude, 
 until they arrive on the fishing ground. A second 
 absurdity is, that a new ship is never suffered ttj| 
 go to sea on a Friday. 
 
ASSEMBLY ROOMS. 123 
 
 THE ASSEMBLY-ROOMS, 
 
 In Long-Room-Street, are properly stored and 
 accommodated with whatever is requisite; not 
 excepting various article's of the highest luxury 
 and expense, to gratify persons of the first fashion 
 and taste. 
 
 Rules for the better accommodation of stran- 
 gers, and to regulate those, whose business it is to 
 administer to their public amusement are establish- 
 ed as follows : 
 
 RULES OF THE ROOMS. 
 I. 
 
 The subscription to the Rooms for the season, 
 U. Is. 
 
 II. 
 The dress night is on Friday, on which night 
 non-subscribers pay 5s. each. 
 III. 
 Tuesday is an undress night, on which non- 
 subscribers pay the same. 
 
124 BAKERS, &C. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Every gentleman, who dances, pays %s. for him- 
 self and partner toward the music. 
 
 V. 
 Every lady or gentleman, who drinks tea, pays 1-*;' 
 
 BAKERS. 
 
 Mr. Christopher Pecket, Long-Room-Street ; 
 Mr. William Parke, Queen-Street ; Mr. Story 
 Sleightholm, below the Cross; Mr. Scott, Cross- 
 Street; Mr. John Simpson, Newbrough-Street ; 
 Mr, Charles Newton, ditto. 
 
 BANKERS. 
 
 Old Bank, Messrs. Woodail, & Co. Queen- 
 Street. 
 
 New Bank. Messrs. Listers, Moorsom, & Co, 
 Queen -Street. 
 
 BOOKSELLERS 8f STATIONERS. 
 
 Mr. W. Ainsworth, Mr. T. Coultas, and Mr. 
 T. Whiting, Newbrough-Street ; and Mr. E. 
 Anderson, Merchants' -Row ; Mr. Coultas, and 
 Mr. Whiting, have Printing-Offices ; and all of 
 them have Circulating Libraries, at five shil« 
 lings each for three months. 
 
EXERCISE. 125 
 
 COMMON BREWERS. 
 
 Mr. W. Tindall, Huntriss'-Row ; Mr. George- 
 Nesfield, Upper End of Aldbrough-Street ; Mr, 
 W. Hutchinson, Tanner-Street ; Messrs. Page & 
 Pickup, Ditto. These furnish good beer at the 
 Lodging-Houses, in large or small casks, at differ* 
 ent prices. They, likewise, supply Goals. 
 
 EXERCISE. 
 
 This grand specific against low spirits, indiges- 
 tion, gout, and a thousand other evils, may be 
 taken at Scarborough in almost any weather. In 
 a very few minutes indeed after the heaviest show- 
 ers, the flagged ways and the gravel walks on the 
 Cliff are perfectly dry. The sands afford good 
 space for riding, driving, and every other species 
 of moderate exercise. The south sands are most 
 frequented on several accounts : upon these stands 
 the Spaw ; they are nearer to the part of the 
 town usually occupied by strangers, and more easy 
 of access : but those, who love quietness anct 
 ^elusion, will find the north sands extremely 
 
126 SXERCIS& 
 
 agreeable. The view of the Castle, whidi they 
 afford, is particularly impressive. * 
 
 " Why dost thdu loiter on the beach, 
 Where peaceful plays the placid ware ; 
 And often, with fantastic speech, 
 To the deaf ocean idly rave ? 
 Why dost thou bid the billow bear 
 Thy frame, unnerved by fancied care. 
 
 To realms more pure, where genial souls inspire } 
 Why dost thou view the little skiff, 
 W r hich flutters near the frowning cliff, 
 
 With many an 'aching wish,' and importune desire? 
 
 When in the crowded walks of men, 
 
 'Mid festive scenes thou'rt doom'd to mix, 
 
 Why with unlucky bias then 
 
 Thy thoughts on some disaster fix ? 
 
 Why dost thou spurn alluring mirth, 
 
 And bend unconscious to the earth, 
 Mute and unknowing, absent and unknown ? 
 
 Why dost thou frown on every sport, 
 
 And curse indignant those, who court 
 The motley phantom Joy, on Folly's tinsel throne ? 
 
 * Scalby Mills, a much-frequented Tea»House, is near 
 the northern extremity of these sands; 
 
EXERCISE. 1§7 
 
 Is it because each tie is gone, 
 
 That bound thee to this fragile state % 
 
 Because thou'rt left forlone, alone, 
 
 No friend to love, no foe to hate ? 
 
 Has keen affection often brought 
 
 The pleasures of a tender thought ; 
 And is such thought for ever now bereft ? 
 
 Say, has thou felt an arduous flame, 
 
 Which not eternity could tame, 
 And are it's joys expired, and all it's vigour reft ? 
 
 Is it because thou loved'st mankind, 
 With ardour warm as angels feel ; 
 And did they spurn thy generous mind, 
 And wanton wound, nor wish to heal ? 
 If causes dark as they have wrought 
 The mournful wreck of splendid thought, 
 
 I weep • ' , " 
 
 Lloyd's Melancholy Man. 
 
 Considerable additions have been lately made to 
 the accommodations for public exercise. The 
 Corporation have inclosed Weaponness Hill, or 
 Mount OiiYer. * A driving road is made round 
 
 * The latter name it has received from a mistaken opi- 
 nion of it's having been the scite, from which the parliamen- 
 tary forces battered the church and castle, during the 
 nnhappy feuds of the seventeenth century, 
 R 
 
128 EXERCISE. 
 
 the hill, winding to a fine level plain on it's top, 
 whence the view is very extensive. 
 
 Beside such amusements as hunting, shooting, 
 and coursing, which gentlemen acquainted in the 
 neighbourhood may obtain occasional leave to pur- 
 sue, and exclusive of the pleasant rides in the 
 Ticinity, sea-parties in fine settled weather (espe- 
 cially in the month of August) are abundantly 
 entertaining to such as enjoy little trips around 
 the bay, in sailing boats, for fishing, &c. with the 
 prospect of a fine coast from the seaward. 
 
 Haddock, small whiting, codling, gurnet, and 
 mackarel frequently come so near the shore, as to 
 be angled for with success from the outward pier. 
 Cobles put off behind the castle, or near the rocks 
 eastward in the bay, and catch small-sized fish, 
 often almost as fast as they can bait. This amuse* 
 ment, however, depends on the appetite of the 
 fish, and the wind being off shore : when* both are 
 favourable, it is highly successful ; and it is 
 observable, that they bite most greedily as the 
 evening closes. There is another mode of line- 
 
EXERCISE. 129 
 
 fishing here, which though not without the same 
 uncertainties, often affords good pastime : angling 
 for billet, parr, and cole-fish from the neighbour- 
 ing rocks, or in a coble anchored at a little distance. 
 When in a humour to bite, these fish afford rr ach 
 diversion, and require far more play to be taken 
 than the smaller tribe of salt-water fish in com- 
 mon. * As a pleasant change, parties occasionally 
 repair (with wejll-stored panniers) tc / he a cold 
 repast among the grotesque rocks of v. )ioughton- 
 Wyke, four miles from Scarborough. A boat 
 provided with bait, rods, lines, &c. should be 
 ordered round in waiting : the landlord at Clough- 
 ton public-house is a ready guide through th^ fields 
 to the cliff, and supplies many requisites for the 
 completion of the day's entertainment. In this, 
 
 * To those, who may wish to make a fishing party, every 
 requisite apparatus wilj be supplied on application to the 
 seafaring people. Many of this description are to be 
 found in the very respectable list of housekeepers who let 
 lodgings; and to their advice the nobility and gentry may 
 be most safely referred. Experience has taught, how 
 dangerous it is for strangers to depend upon their own judge- 
 ment, in choosing a vessel and hands for such excursions. 
 Three young men and the boatman were drowned one 
 afternoon, by some mismanagement, in no very unfavourable 
 weather. 
 
130 EXERCISE. 
 
 as in many other situations about Scarborough % 
 ladies will find a thick pair of shoes, a good spy- 
 glass, and a great coat admirable auxiliaries, 
 When the tide suits, there is good fishing, either 
 from the boat or the shore : but it is always indis^ 
 pensable to the pleasure of such an excursion, that 
 the wind should be off land ; when the water in 
 the little bay becomes perfectly smooth, and even 
 ladies may, if they choose, without alarm or in- 
 convenience go on board and fish from the coble. 
 
 The view of Cloughton-Wyke is eminently wild 
 and striking, on various accounts, to inland visi- 
 tors. Often a succession of vessels passing or 
 repassing, standing near the shore, enlivens the 
 scene: From behind the high point of land on 
 either end of this small inlet they gradually reveal 
 themselves, as it were, in a moving picture : first 
 a bowsprit, then a mast and sail (the rest hidden 
 by a rugged line of rocky cliff) and soon gliding 
 onward the whole ship, appears agreeably heigh- 
 tened by the romantic foreground, previously it's 
 screen ! Here also the abrupt precipices, which 
 shelter and over-hang behind ; the masses of high 
 rock, tumbled irregularly around; the hollow 
 
EXERCISE. 131 
 
 sound of 'many waters,' slowly rolling their vast 
 and sluggish load and bursting at the foot, have 
 an effect of solemn grandeur, magnificently de- 
 lightful ! 
 
 To Cayton-cliff Mill also, romantically situated 
 on the margin of a sequestered bay three miles 
 south of Scarborough, a pleasant excursion by 
 water may be made in any of the pleasure-boats 
 or cobles, which may be engaged either by the 
 hour, or by the voyage, under the management of 
 experienced mariners. 
 
 This bay has long been the favourite resort of 
 pebblers. The whole coast indeed, more particu- 
 larly to the south, is strewed with onyxes, moss- 
 agates, and cornelians, 
 
 FRESH WATER FISHING 
 
 For trout, greyling, &c. may be had in the 
 Derwent, a few miles from the town, in consider* 
 able perfection, upon proper application to the 
 proprietors of the river. The mere, a sheet of 
 water about half-a-mile long and two miles distant 
 from Scarborough, abounds with pike, perch, and 
 
132 Hospital. 
 
 eels : it is the property of the Corporation, from 
 whom, leave for fishing may easily be obtained. 
 
 THE HOSPITAL 
 
 Fcr worn out and disabled seamen, or 'Seamen's 
 Hospital,' as it is called, is an appendage to, 
 and uuder the government of the Trinity-House, 
 Deptford-Strond. It stands upon the road to the 
 North-Sands, or Peaseholm, and affords a comfor- 
 table asylum to many families and individuals. 
 The funds for it's support arise from ships belong, 
 ing to the port of Scarborough, in the merchant- 
 service; each of which pays sixpence per month 
 for every person on board, as long as the ship is at 
 sea. 
 
 SURGEONS Sf APOTHECARIES. 
 
 Messrs. Wilson & Travis, Mr. Willis, and 
 Mr. Tute, Newbrough-Streel. 
 
 WARM SEA-WATER BATHS 
 
 Are much employed as a preparative to bathing 
 iu the open sea, as also in numerous cases to 
 which the cold bath may not be stictly applicable; 
 and in a great variety of complaints, experience 
 has fully proved their utility. 
 
BATHS. 133 
 
 The visitant, who is recommended to try their 
 efficacy, may here be commodiously gratified. A 
 set of rooms on the Cliff is very neatly fitted up 
 for that purpose by Messrs. Wilson & Travis, 
 Surgeons, and a similar establishment by Dr, 
 Thompson and Mr. Tute, near the Pier. 
 
 The terms of the former are three shillings for a 
 sea-water bath, two shillings for a shower-bath, 
 and sixpence for the attendant: of the latter two 
 shillings and sixpence each bath, and sixpence 
 the attendant. Servants and others are accommo- 
 dated at reduced prices. These baths are under 
 the immediate superintendence of the respective 
 proprietors, whose professional character and ex- 
 perience are well-known and acknowledged. 
 They liberally give their advice upon the subject, 
 and may be referred to ut their respective resi- 
 dences. 
 
134 LOftGlNfes. 
 
 LODGINGS. * 
 
 These are in general large, airy, clean, and 
 well-furnished. Families, who wish to have a. 
 partments ready upon their arrival, may by letter 
 addressed to any of the owners know exactly what 
 accommodation they can have, and upon what 
 term9 : the latter dependent in a great degree on 
 the time for which they choose to engage them, in 
 some instances ; on the time of the year, in others ; 
 and on the prospect of a good or bad season, in 
 almost all. There is a sort of customary rate of 
 half-a-guinea or twelve shillings per week for each 
 room, and half-price for servants' apartments : but 
 many houses in this list the proprietors will not 
 break into separate engagements, so long as the 
 Season is likely to be a good one \ and in others, 
 Visitors making a bargain on the spot may procure 
 good apartments at less than the customary rates. 
 Families, who choose to have a house entirely to 
 themselves, can always engage it by letter, with 
 the greatest certainty of it's being welkaired ; for 
 
 * A list of houses, appropriated to the occupation of visi- 
 tors, is given in the Appendix. 
 
LODGINGS* 135 
 
 it is not more than justice to say, that many of the 
 best houses are the property of persons truly 
 respectable. 
 
 Bed and table-linen are furnished: but the 
 washing forms an extra, and at Scarborougn no 
 trifling expense. A kitchen with cooking utensils, 
 and services for the table, is one guinea per week; 
 servants' hall, halLa-guinea. 
 
 Some few houses furnish a boarding-table, to 
 accommodate their lodgers, viz. Mr. Hodgins, 
 Mrs, Parke (late from the coffee-house) and 
 Mr. Huntriss, Huntriss-Row ; Mr. Cowiing, 
 Newbrough-Street, and Mr. Crathorne^ Mer* 
 chants'wRow. 
 
 Single gentlemen frequently establish a tempo- 
 rary mess at one of the inns, where they are amply- 
 supplied with whatever provisions the district 
 affords; and may rest assured that their wines, 
 especially port, are of a good kind. During lulL 
 seasons, an ordinary is occasionally provided by 
 most of the inns. Many families choose to have 
 
136 LODGINGS. 
 
 their provision dressed at home ; ind some fisrd 
 an amusement, both in seeing the humours of the 
 market, and in selecting it's produce. But din- 
 ners and suppers are supplied, and sent to the 
 respective lodging-houses from all the inns in a 
 comfortable stile, exact, expeditious, and hot; at 
 rates extremely reasonable, when compared with 
 the price of the articles ; as meals may be ordered, 
 from 2* . for each person up to any amount. The 
 chief profit, in these instances, accrues from the 
 sale of their wines. 
 
 The markets for butcher's meat, and poultry, 
 are on Thursdays and Saturdays. Those on 
 Thursdays, however, are by far the most consider- 
 able. Yet, during the summer, meat is slaughtered 
 six days in the week- Compared with neighbour- 
 ing markets, that of Scarborough is not a dear one. 
 It has long been celebrated for it's excellent moor- 
 mutton : and some of the best kind still continues 
 to be brought in. Poultry and vegetables, espe- 
 cially potatoes, are abundant. 
 
FRUIT. 13? 
 
 PLEASURE-BOATS or COBLES 
 
 May be engaged either by the hour, or by the 
 coasting trip, under the management of experi- 
 enced mariners, by applying to George Cowlam, 
 Benjamin Lancaster, and others, 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Considering the disadvantages inseparable from 
 go northerly and maritime a situation, may be justly 
 stiled very good. Mr. William Bean has at a 
 great expense perfected a pinery, and can likewise 
 supply fresh. gathered grapes of high flavour; 
 melons, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plumbs^ 
 pears, &c. &c. every day in the season, of the very 
 best kinds. Mary Merry also, in King-Street, 
 furnishes fruit at all the Lodging-Houses. 
 
 Mr. Bean has likewise laid out his grounds 
 which are of considerable extent, to accommodate 
 the public with walks and flowers, as well as fruit. 
 A subscription of Five Shillings entitles an indi- 
 vidual to walk in them at any time of the day, 
 
138 GARDENS, 
 
 throughout the summer, aud Ten Shillings and 
 Sixpence extends the privilege to a whole family. 
 A band of music sometimes attends this fashion- 
 able promenade in the evenings. 
 
 At Pearson's also, in Falsgrave, where a very 
 striking view of the castle and the northern sea is 
 enjoyed. Tea-parties are occasionally formed, and 
 the walk thither will to many visitors form an 
 additional recommendation. The approach to his 
 Garden, which stands very near the division of the 
 York and Driffield roads, isdessignated by a neat 
 stone arch. 
 
 HORSES FOR HIRE. 
 
 Several persons, beside innkeepers, let out good 
 horses ; some for the saddle only, and others to 
 carry double; a mode of exercise frequent with 
 invalid famales of moderate income, as at once 
 more airy and less expensive than that of a carriage. 
 Matthew Beecroft, without the Gates ; Mark Dove, 
 Queen-Street ; Thomas Jackson., Jonathan Major, 
 and Thomas Glaves, Tanner-Street; William 
 Peacock, Queen-Street ; Thomes Mosey, East- 
 
INNS. 139 
 
 Sjand-Gate. The three latter, likewise, furnish 
 Gigs. 
 
 JOB HORSES FOR CARRIAGES 
 .^re furnished by the principal inns. 
 
 D&NKIES 
 
 Fully caparisoned, and Donkey or Pony. Car- 
 riages attend every day at the foot of the Terrace- 
 Cliffy and may be engaged by the hour. 
 
 INNS. 
 
 Pied Bull, without the Gates; New Inn, 
 Nezvbrough-Street ; George Inn, ditto ; Bell 
 Inn, Bland' s Cliff; Blacksmith's Arms, Queen- 
 Street ; London Inn , Neiobrough- Street ; Talbot 
 Inn, Queen. Street. All these, with the exception 
 of the last two, are posting-houses, having carri- 
 ages and horses to let; the carriages generally 
 very neat, and the horses extremely good. Beside 
 these, there are other inns of yery respectable 
 character. 
 
140 SEDAN CHAIRS, &C. 
 
 SEDAN CHAIRS 
 
 Are regulated, as to the charges and distances, 
 by the commissioners for the improvement of the 
 town, who meet every Tuesday at the Town- 
 Hall. Every complaint meets with immediate 
 redress. 
 
 The fares are 800 yards for One Shilling, 1409 
 for Eighteen-pence, &c. regard being had to time, 
 which is estimated at the rate of Sixpence for every 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 WINE and SPIRIT MERCHANTS. 
 
 Messrs. Thirl wall & Vickerman, and Mr. 
 Hugall, Quaen-Street ; and Miss Corbett, Mer. 
 chants' -Row, sells Foreign Wines and Spirits: 
 
 Mt. Cowling, und Mr. Allanscn, Newbrough- 
 Street; Mr. Hart, St. Sepulchre-Street; and 
 Mr. Estill, Long-Room-Street, sell Foreign Spirits 
 and British Wines. 
 
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, &C. 141 
 
 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 
 
 Are letoutby Mr. Wilson, Long-Room-Street ; 
 Mr. Ainsworth, Newbrough-Street ; and Mr. 
 Hartley, Huntriss-Row. 
 
 The naturalist may be amply gratified on the 
 rocks and the beach. The Tariety of sea-weed, 
 corallines, pebbles, and petrifactions (as has been 
 already stated) is very considerable. Those, who 
 prefer a less fatiguing mode of collecting, may 
 purchase very good specimens at the shops ia 
 Newbrough-Street, Long-Room-Street, and upon 
 the Cliff. 
 
 NEWS-PAPERS. 
 
 Those, who choose to take the London or coun- 
 try-papers while they reside at Scarborough, may 
 have them for any period, by giving orders to the 
 booksellers or at the Post-Office. The governor 
 of the Spaw takes London papers for the use of his 
 subscribers. 
 
14S POST-OFFICE, &C. 
 
 PHYSICIAN. 
 
 Dr. Thompson, the present resident Physician, 
 is acknowledged to possess great professional ta- 
 lents and acquirements. His residence is in 
 Huntriss-Row. 
 
 POST-OFFICE. 
 
 The Post comes in every morning between 
 Seven and eight o'clock, and goes out every after- 
 noon at half-past-two. On Fridays there is no 
 Mail out for London, and on Tuesdays none from 
 London is received. The Post-Office is on Palace- 
 Hill. 
 
 • 
 
 PACKETS 
 
 Sail about once a fortnight from London to 
 Scarborough, and vice versa. The passage is one 
 pound six shillings. Particulars may be had on 
 application to Mr. Marflitt, King-Street, or Mr, 
 Edmond, near the Bell Inn, 
 
CARRIAGES AND CARRIAGES, 143 
 
 COMMERCE. 
 
 In pronouncing Scarborough c a place absolutely 
 without trade,' Mr. Pennant departed from his 
 usual accuracy. Much of it's prosperity, indeed, 
 depends upon the patronage of those who visit it 
 for it's waters ; but it has some foreign commerce, 
 and builds a considerable number of ships + for 
 the transport-service, the East and West-Indies, 
 the coasting and the coal trade. A considerable 
 quantity of corn, potatoes, dried fish, &c. is 
 exported coastways. There is likewise a sail-cloth 
 manufactory, and three rope- walks. 
 
 CARRIAGES AND CARRIERS. 
 
 The MAIL-COACH sets off from the Bell Inn 
 at half past two o'clock every Monday, Wednes- 
 day, Friday, and Saturday, and arrives at York 
 about nine the same evening. It leaves York on the 
 arrival of the south mail, and returns to Scar- 
 brough about eight o'clock the following mornings. 
 
 + It's present amount of shipping is supposed to average 
 About 25,000 tons, 
 
 T 
 
144 CARRIAGES AND CARRIERS. 
 
 Other good COACHES, connected with Leeds 
 Coaches to and from York, run daily during the 
 summer, setting off in the morning from Scar- 
 borough, and returning every evening by eight 
 o'clock. 
 
 A DILIGENCE to and from Hull runs, during 
 the summer, from the Bell Inn on Tuesdays, Thurs- 
 days, and Saturdays, through Hunmanby, Bridling* 
 ton, and Beverley. Fare to Hull 16$. 
 
 From the above Inn, likewise, a DILIGENCE 
 runs to and from Whitby every Wednesday. — 
 Fare Ss. 
 
 CARRIERS to York; Thomas Burniston, 
 Newbrough-street, sets out on Mondays and 
 Thursdays about twelve o'clock at noon, and 
 returns on Wednesday and Saturday mornings 
 about eleven : James Craggs, also, from the Nag's 
 Head, Newbrough-Street, runs on the same days 
 and at the same time. Carriage Id, per ston'e. 
 
 LIGHT WAGGON to Hull ; James Donkin, 
 Newbrongh-Street, sets out with Goods and Pas- 
 
THEATRE. J 45 
 
 sengers on Mondays and Fridays at six o'clock in 
 the morning; and returns on Tuesday and Satur- 
 day evenings at seven o'clock: David Bulmer, 
 also, Long- Room-Street, sets out every Wednesday 
 morning at six o'clock, and returns on Friday 
 evening at seven. Carriage Sd. per stone, 
 
 CARRIER to Whitby ; Robert Jefferson, Mer- 
 chants'-Row, sets out on Mondays and Thursdays 
 at nine o'clock in the morning, and returns on 
 Tuesdays and Fridays about seven o'clock in the 
 evening. David Bulmer, also, travels the same road* 
 
 CARRIER to Bridlington ; Porter O wston sets 
 out from the Star Inn, King-Street, on Tuesdays 
 and Fridays at nine o'clock in the morning; and 
 returns on Mondays and Thursdays, at six o'clock 
 in the evening. Carriage 3d. per stone. 
 
 THE THEATRE 
 
 Is much attended at Scarborough. The house 
 is extremely neat, and the performance is generally 
 well executed. The scenic decorations have been 
 much admired. 
 
u$ 
 
 LIFE-BO AT, 
 
 L1FE.BOAT. 
 
 ^ayAC* 
 
 COAHOU 
 
 A Life-Boat upon Mr. Greathe ad's plan, built 
 in the year 1801, has been the means of preserving 
 many vessels, "ancUhe lives of their crews ; and the 
 testimonials of it's services at this place have con- 
 tributed much to introduce the invention into more 
 general use. Donations for it's repairs and sup- 
 port are received at the Spaw, the Assembly- 
 Room, and the Libraries. The Boat itself may be 
 viewed at the building lately erected for it, on the 
 road to the Spaw. 
 
SCHOOLS. 147 
 
 SCHOOLS. 
 
 First in this list should stand the one supported 
 by the Amicable Society. It was instituted in the 
 year 1729 by Robert North Esq., and consisted 
 of about forty members ; by whose subscriptions, 
 and other donations, were clothed and educated 
 20 children : it has since gradually increased to 
 upward of 320 members, and the number at present 
 under it's care is 37 boys and 22 girls. As it's 
 established funds however are inadequate to it's 
 expenditure, two sermons are preached annually 
 for their benefit in the summer, and frequently by 
 some distinguished ecclesiastic who happens to be 
 a temporary resident. The collections upon these 
 occasions are worthy of the cause, for which they 
 are made. There Js also another sermon preached 
 in winter; but, most of the auditors at that sea* 
 son being constant subscribers, the collection is 
 usually inconsiderable. 
 
 SUNDA Y- SCHOOLS 
 
 Are the next in priority of establishment* These 
 are conducted, after the usual mode, in a School- 
 
148 SCHOOLS. 
 
 room adjoining the Church; and the children 
 regularly attend divine service. This School is 
 entirely dependent upon voluntary subscriptions 
 for it's support. 
 
 THE SPINNING~SCHOOL, 
 
 Founded by the ladies of Scarborough of the 
 present day, is exclusively under their patronage. 
 About 20 girls are educated and clothed, till fit for 
 employment ; when they are taken by their patro* 
 nesses, or comfortably settled in other services. 
 
 THE SCHOOL OF INDUSTRY, 
 
 On principles somewhat similar, is not only 
 supported but superintended by the ladies of 
 Scarborough. 
 
 THE LANCASTERIAN-SCHOOL 
 
 Is of a more modern date. A building, capable 
 of accommodating 450 children, was erected in 
 1810 near the north-cliff by the subscriptions of 
 the inhabitants, and the superintendence of the 
 school is vested in a permanent committee. 
 
SCHOOLS. 149 
 
 To parents in general it will be pleasing to 
 learn, that Scarborough affords good classical and 
 commercial instructors, at moderate rates; as well 
 as masters for music, and drawing. 
 
 The Re?. T. Irvin, a minister of the established 
 church, teaches the classics, and other branches of 
 learning, with much ability: he also boards a. 
 select number of pupils in his own house, in 
 Queen-Street. 
 
 Mr. John Hornsey, King-Strept, beside being 
 an excellent School-Master, teaches drawing, and 
 boards a limited number of pupils, He has a 
 museum consisting chiefly of subjects illustrative 
 of Natural History, which he obligingly opens to 
 the visits of the curious on Thursdays and Satur- 
 days, at three o'clock in the afternoon. Mr. 
 Hornsey is well known as the author of several 
 excellent elementary works on Education and 
 Natural Historv. 
 
150 SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY. 
 
 GENERAL SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY, 
 
 INSTITUTED IN 1811. 
 
 PATRONS. 
 
 His Grace the Archbishop of York. 
 His Grace the Duke of Leeds, 
 
 PATRONESSES. 
 
 Her Grace the Duchess of Leeds, 
 The Rt. Hon. Lady Grantham. 
 
 PRESIDENT. 
 The Rt. Hon. Earl Fitzwilliam. 
 
 VICE-PRESIDENTS. 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Lord Middleton, 
 
 The Rt. Hon. Lord G. A. H. Catendish, M. P. 
 
 The Members for the County of York, for the 
 
 time being. 
 The Bailiffs for the Borough of Scarborough, 
 
 for the time being. 
 
SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY. 151 
 
 The Rt. Hon. the Lord Mayor of York, for the 
 time being. 
 
 Sir George Cayley, Bart. 
 
 Sir Francis Lindley Wood, Bart. 
 
 G. G. V. Vernon, Esq. M. P. 
 
 Robert Chaloner, Esq. M. P. 
 
 Walter Fawkes, Esq. 
 
 William Joseph Denison, Esq. 
 
 George Osbaldeston, Esq. 
 
 George Johnstone, Esq. 
 
 Sunderland Cooke, Esq. 
 The Rev. Francis Wrangham, M. A. F. R. S. 
 
 TREASURERS, 
 
 Messrs. Wood all and Co., Bankers. 
 
 SECRETARY, 
 Mr. Brearey, Solicitor. 
 
 PHYSICIAN. 
 Dr. Thompson. 
 
 In 1796 a GENERAL SEA-BATHING IN- 
 FIRMARY for the use of the diseased Poor was 
 established at Margate, under the very sanguine 
 recommendation of Sixteen distinguished medical 
 authorities. 
 
152 SEA-BATHING INFIRMARY. 
 
 In 1804 five Physicians and Surgeons, who had 
 been desired by the Medical Board of the Institu- 
 tion to examine and to state it's effects, reported 
 
 c That by the benefits which it had afforded in 
 the probable saving of limbs, by subduing the most 
 pressing diseases of the joints ; in conquering in- 
 flammation of the eyes, which had resisted former 
 endeavours, and threatened permanent blindness; 
 in healing obstinate weakening and distressing 
 sores ; in resolving and removing the evils attend- 
 ant on indurated glands in various parts ; in 
 restoring health and vigour from conditions of body 
 the most emaciated and deplorable; in altering to 
 all appearance constitutions, where striking char- 
 acters of a strong scrophulous disposition had been 
 manifested ; and in preserving the lives of persons 
 seemingly at the (b fink of death— it had equalled 
 their hope, and exceeded the promise and declared 
 expectation of iVs founders and early promoters.* 
 
 Such was the salutary efficacy of the Margate 
 Bethesda, estimated upon the experience of more 
 than eight years by professional gentlemen, whose 
 names are their sufficient panegyric. During that 
 
SEA- BATHING INFIRMARY. 153 
 
 period, upward of eight hundred patients had been 
 admitted, of whom a great majority were "restored 
 to health and strength." 
 
 The Baths haie been established in the lower 
 town; in order both to remove unpleasing objects 
 from the public eye, and to consult economy as 
 well in the purchase of the site, as in the procur- 
 ing of water from the Sea. The advantages, which 
 have already accrued from the Institution, fully 
 justify the anticipations of it's most sanguine 
 supporters; and place it on an entire level with 
 the most useful of Public Charities, 
 
 Subscriptions are received at the Banks in 
 Scarborough, and in the principal Towns in the 
 County, or by their Correspondents (Down, 
 Thornton, & Co,, &c.) in London. 
 
 N. B. Subscription-Books are left at the Lodg- 
 ing-Houses, and all the public Rooms; and it is 
 hoped, that the Nobility and Gentry visiting Scar- 
 borough will not think it too much to give Half- A- 
 Crown each to this useful Institution, 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 CASTLE.HOWARD. 
 
 The Hall is thirty-three feet square, by sixty 
 high 5 terminating in a dome at the top. It is 
 ornamented with stone-columns; but these are so 
 massive, and the height of the room so much out 
 of proportion, that the area has rather a diminu- 
 tive appearance. The walls are painted by Pelle- 
 grino with the history of Phaeton, and adorned 
 with several antique statues and busts: among 
 these are Sabina in the character of Plenty, in 
 which the attitude and drapery are fine ; Diadu- 
 menus, successor to Caracalla, whose drapery is 
 esteemed admirable; Vitellius, Lucius Verus, 
 Marcus Aurelius, and many others. 
 
 The Saloon, thirty-four feet by twenty-four, 
 contains the busts of Didius Julianus ; Apollo, the 
 
 head modem ; Cupid, admirably fine ; Marcus 
 
APPENDIX. 155 
 
 Aurelius, Hadrian, Jupiter, Serapis, &c. &c. 
 The pictures are, four pieces by Ricci ; a very 
 fine portrait of Pope Gregory, Mars and Venus, 
 and the Holy Family, by Titian ; Vulcan, by 
 Albert Durer; and a Bohemian Shepherdess, by 
 Ptembrandt. 
 
 TheDining-Room, twenty-eight (eet by twen- 
 ty-one, is elegantly furnished with pictures, 
 busts, and slabs. The chimney-piece is supported 
 by fluted columns of Sienna marble, it's cornice is 
 of Sienna arid white marble, and in the middle are 
 groups of polished white. The slabs are of Sicilian 
 jasper, and in this apartment stands an urn of the 
 finest green granite, with two busts, Marcus Au- 
 relius, and a Bacchanal. The pictures are, two 
 beautiful landscapes by Zuccarelli ; a fine piace 
 of ruins, by P. Panini ; Cupid and Psyche, by 
 Tintoret; the Prodigal Son, which has amazing 
 expression, by Spagnolet; and Christ at Emmaus, 
 by Paulo Veronese. Upon the chimney-piece are 
 three bronzes, Laocoon, Cassius, and Brutus. 
 
 The Drawing-Room is twenty-one feet square, 
 the slab is of yerd antique, and the payement 
 
156 APPENDIX. 
 
 Mosaic. It is also adorned with an urn of por- 
 phyry, and a considerable number of pictures. 
 
 The Antique Galxery contains many slabs of 
 the most curious antique marble, some inlaid with 
 different kinds of marble and precious stones. 
 Here are the busts of Cato, M. Junius Brutus, 
 Caius Caesar, Geta, Virgil, Homer, and Hercules, 
 a basso relievo of Victory (the attitude and dra- 
 pery of which are excellent) a Satyr holding a goat, 
 &c. There also are several fine pictures, by 
 Raffaelle, Rubens, Bassan, &c. 
 
 The State-Chamber, twenty-eight feet long 
 and twenty-four broad, has a very elegant chimney-, 
 piece supported by Corinthian columns, the shafts 
 of Sienna marble, and the capitals and bases of 
 white : the cornice is also of white marble, and in 
 the centre of the frieze are pigeons in white marble 
 polished. In the ornaments above, is the Marriage 
 of the Sea, by Canaletti. The room is hung with 
 excellent Brussels tapestry, done after the designs 
 of Teniers. 
 
 The Dressing-Room, thirty feet by twenty* 
 four, contains two fine slabs of blood-jasper: 
 
APPENDIX, 157 
 
 and a third of extraordinary elegance, an oval of 
 agate surrounded by modern Mosaic. Upon the 
 chimney-piece, of white marble, stands a Venus, 
 a Mercury, and a Horse. There are also, in this 
 room, an elegant cabinet of Amboyna wood, and 
 two landscapes by Canaletti. 
 
 Since the above was drawn up, several changes 
 may have been made in the distribution of the pic- 
 tures; and they have received a most wealthy 
 addition from the celebrated Orleans collection. 
 Of these, ought more particularly to be specified 
 The Adoration of our Saviour by the Wise Men, 
 by Mabeuse ; a most wonderful production of the 
 art, both from the singular freshness of it's colours 
 and the laborious minuteness of it's execution. 
 The draperies, jewellery, &c. are, in themselves, 
 sufficient for the employment of years. It contains 
 spirited portraits of the Duke of Brabant, John of 
 Leyden, Albert Durer, and the Artist himself, with 
 many others; of which, however, the names are 
 not now to be ascertained. But a still more 
 sulendid ckef*d y ceuvre is, the Three Maries from 
 
153 APPENDIX. 
 
 the pencil of Annibal Caracci; almost doing jus. 
 tice by it's drawing, it's colouring, and it's expres~ 
 sion to it's aweful subject. The court of Spain, it 
 is said, offered to cover it's surface withlouis-d'ors 
 for the purchase, which would have amounted to 
 .^£8,000 : and double that amount, if we may trust 
 report, was once tendered to it's late profligate 
 owner, the Duke of Orleans, but in vain. 
 
 The subjoined lines were written on seeing a 
 Lady burst into tears, while she was contemplating 
 this unequalled performance : 
 
 "The veil withdrawn, in plenitude of art 
 The tragic subject storm'd the christian heart; 
 Still, as she bow'd with reverential awe 
 O'er the dead author of the living law, 
 And viewed the anguish of contrasted woes, 
 Congenial sorrows in her breast arose. 
 Rooted she stood, entranced in speechless grief, 
 Pure as her love and strong as her belief: 
 Her bosom glow'd, her heart refused to beat, 
 Till gushing tears allay'd the fervent heat — 
 Such hallow'd tears as saints and angels shed, 
 When from the Cross Redemption rear'd her head ; 
 Tears sooth'd by hope, which now maturely beanvd, 
 A Saviour martyr'dj but a World redeemM, " 
 
 R. E, 
 
APPENDIX. 159 
 
 An old Grecian altar likewise, presented by the 
 Hero of Trafalgar, bears a Tablet with the follow* 
 ing Inscription, from the poetical pen of it's nobla 
 proprietor: 
 
 * Pass not this ancient altar with disdain, 
 
 'Twas once in Delphi's sacred temple rear'd: 
 From this the Pythian pour'd her mystic strain, 
 While Greece it's fate in anxious silence heard. 
 
 What chiefs, what heroes of th' Achaian race 
 Might not to this have bow'd with holy awe! 
 
 Have clung in pious reverence round it's base, 
 And from the voice insp.red received the law ! 
 
 A British Chief, as famed in arms as those, 
 Has borne this relic o'er th' Italian waves; 
 
 In war still friend to science, this bestows, 
 And Nelsok gives it to the land he saves.' 
 
 In the grounds stands an Ionic temple, which has 
 four porticoes, and forms a handsome room, fit* 
 ted up chiefly with marble. The cornices of the 
 door-cases are supported by Ionic columns of black 
 and yellow marble, and in the corners of the room 
 are pilasters of the same. In niches over the doors 
 <ue placed busts of Vespasian 5 Justina, Trajan^ 
 W 
 
160 APPENDIX, 
 
 and Sabina. The floor is in different compartments 
 of marble, and the room is crowned with a dome 
 ornamented with white and gold, but the windows 
 are not proportionally noble. 
 
 u There is in another part of the park a Mauso- 
 leum, a circular building surrounded by a colonnade 
 of Tuscan columns, and crowned with a dome. 
 Above the vault is a circular chapel, thirty feet in 
 diameter, by sixty-nine high. Eight Corinthian 
 pillars support the cornice, over which the dome 
 rises. The floor, in different compartments, is 
 inlaid with marble; and it contains a fine table of 
 antique Mosaic. Beside these, several other orna- 
 mental buildings are scattered about the park. 
 
 DUNCOMBE-PJRK * 
 
 Is a fine building. The Hall is a well-propor- 
 tioned room, sixty feet long and forty round, 
 surrounded with fourteen Corinthian columns of 
 stone, and ornamented with the statues of Jupiter, 
 Mercury, Mars, Venus, and Diana. 
 
 * The direct road from Scarborough, to this noble man- 
 iion 3 lies through Pickering. 
 
APPENDIX. 161 
 
 The Saloon, which is eighty-seven feet long 
 and twenty broad, is thrown into three divisions 
 by Ionic columns, and adorned with the statues of 
 Apollo, Bacchus, Mars, and Mercury. The ceil- 
 ing contains relievoes in stucco, in the centre of 
 which is Flora encircled with festoons. The 
 chimney-piece is supported by double Ionic 
 columns, and the tables are of fine Sienna marble. 
 
 The Dining-Room, thirty- three feet by twenty^ 
 five, has it's ceiling also adorned with stucco 
 admirably executed, and is furnished with three 
 excellent landscapes, by Weston ; the Holy Fami- 
 ly, by Julio Romano; Venus and Adonis, a 
 beautiful piece by Titian ; and Garrick, in the 
 character of Richard III., by Hogarth. 
 
 The Drawing-Room, twenty-five feet by twen- 
 ty-two, beside a small statue of Antoninus, con- 
 tains the Adoration of the Shepherds, a noble 
 picture ; the daughter of Herodias, very fine ; and 
 the head of Ceres, by Elizabeth Sirani. 
 
 In the Yellow Bed-Chamber, of the same di- 
 mensions, among many other excellent picture?. 
 
162 APPENDIX. 
 
 are the Scourging of Christ, of extremely fiti8 
 expression, painted by Old Palma in successful 
 competition with Titian ; the head of St. Paul, by 
 Leonardo de Vinci, esteemed the finest work of 
 that great painter ; the Salutation of the Virgin, 
 by he Brun; St. Catharine, by Dominichino; 
 Bacchus offering marriage to Ariadne, and Christ 
 visiting St. John, by Guido; a Morning and an 
 Evening Landscape, by Claude Loraine; and a 
 magnificent Land-storm, by Nicola Poussin, 
 
 In the Dressing-Room also, are a considerable 
 number of fine pictures. Several, indeed, have been 
 recently added by the present owner ; more parti- 
 cularly, a Hawking-piece by Wouverman's, and 
 a Candle-light scene (Old Woman and Girl) by 
 Rubens, purchased (it is said) for nine and fifteen 
 hundred guineas respectively in 1807; and 
 Guido's Supplication of Abigail to David (600)^ 
 and a Landscape by Bath (300) in 1808. Upon 
 the whole, the collection, though not very numer* 
 ouSj is remarkably splendid. 
 
 The garden adjoining to the house has a terrace 3 
 Which awards a number of delightful prospects. 
 
APPENDIX. 163 
 
 An Ionic temple, at one end, looks down upon a 
 valley with a beautiful river, winding at the bottom 
 of a noble amphitheatre of hanging woods. At 
 the other extremity, rises a second with a Tuscan 
 colonnade. The yalley is formed into fine en- 
 closures, and the meanders of the river are bold, 
 arid well broken by scattered trees/' 
 
 But the glory of Duncombe. Parke is Rivalx 
 Abbey, founded in 1130 by Walter-de l'Espec,* 
 who died in it's romantic seclusion in 1158. For 
 an account however of this fabric, and the buildings 
 and pictures on the terrace from which it is usually 
 viewed, the reader is referred to the local guide; 
 as well as for what relates to another considera- 
 ble ecclesiastical ruin at Byland, near Coxwold, 
 which may tempt the antiquarian to extend his 
 ride a few miles. 
 
 * He also founded Kirkham near Castle-Howard in 1132 ? 
 and Warden in Bedfordshire in 1136. 
 
104 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 CORPORATION OF SCARBOROUGH. 
 
 J. H. Couuoh, '{Esquires, BAILIIFS. 
 
 Mr. John Coulson, > rnt)nxT n rc 
 Mr. Johx PiersonJ CO RON RES, 
 
 FIRST TWELVE. 
 
 Mr. James Tindall, 
 Mr. Thomas Hinderwell, 
 Mr. John Woodall, sen. 
 Mr. Thomat Foster , 
 Mr. Valentine Fowler, sen. 
 Mr. Benjamin Fowler, 
 
 Mr. Robert Tindall, 
 Mr Anthony Beswick, 
 Mr. John Travis, 
 Mr. Gawan Taylor 9 
 Mr. William Travis, 
 Mr. John Woodall,jun. 
 
 CHAMBERLAINS. 
 
 Mr. James Cooper. 
 
 Mr. Richard Williamson, 
 
 Mr Robert Marflitt, 
 
 Mr. E. Doniier, Churchward. 
 
 SECOND TWELVE. 
 
 Mr. Thomas Keld, 
 Mr. George Fowler. 
 Mr Samuel Wharton, 
 Mr. Joseph Wilson, 
 Mr. William Chambers, 
 Mr, Joseph Thirlwall, 
 
 Mr, William Moorscm, 
 Mr. John Maling, 
 Mr Thomas Dueebery. 
 Mr. Cant Candler, 
 Mr Robert Porrett. 
 Mr. Thomas Adamson, 
 
APPNEDIX. 
 
 165 
 
 THIRD TWELVE. 
 
 Mr. Christopher Coulson, 
 Mr. Henry Byron, 
 Mr. George Harrison, jun. 
 Mr. Valentine Fowler, jud. 
 Mr. Thomas Parkin, 
 Mr. Musgrave Robinson, 
 
 Mr Henry Cooke, 
 
 Mr. Richard WilsoH, 
 
 Mr John Bell, 
 
 Mr John Tindall, 
 
 Mr John Foster Fowler, 
 
 Mr. H. Hugall, Churchwar. 
 
 Those in Italic letters have served the Office of Bailiff. 
 
 LAW OFFICERS OF THE CORPORATION. 
 
 His Grace the Duke of Rutland, Recorder. 
 John Travis, Esq., Deputy Recorder and Common Clerk, 
 
 REPRESENTATIVES IN PARLIAMENT. 
 
 Lieutenant-General the Honourable Edmund Pbtpps. 
 The Right Honourable Charles Manners Sutton. 
 
 Elected 9th October, 1812. 
 
 LIST OF 
 
 LODGING AND BOARDING-HOUSES. 
 
 Those in Italic letter are Boarding-Houses. 
 
 ON THE 
 
 Mrs. Esther Henderson. 
 
 Messrs. J. cS R Hendersons 
 have several houses, two 
 of them very spacious. 
 
 Mrs. Go w land. 
 
 Mr;. C. Sollitt. 
 
 Mrs. W. Sollitt. 
 
 Mr. Johnson. 
 
 CLIFF. 
 
 Mrs Glass. 
 
 Mr. Wood. 
 
 Mr. Ling two houses. 
 
 Mr. Cockerill. 
 
 Mrs. Featberstonehaugh. 
 
 three houses. 
 Mrs. Peacock. 
 
 fj^f These Houses have a good Sea-prospect. 
 
166 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 HUNTRISS* ROW. 
 
 Mrs. Tindall, jun. Brewer. 
 
 Mr. Tindall. 
 
 Miss Huntriss. 
 
 Mr Huntriss. 
 
 Mrs. Parke. 
 
 Mrs. Porter. 
 
 Mr. Hodgen. 
 
 Mr. Hartley. 
 
 Mr. Williamson. 
 
 Mr. Lowson, Cabinet-maker. 
 
 Mr. Beecroft, Stable-keeper, 
 
 Mr. Scaley. 
 Mrs. Holiday. 
 
 WITHOUT THE GATES. 
 j Mrs Todd. 
 Mr. Bean. 
 
 NEWBROUGH-STREET. 
 
 Mrs. Rudsdale, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Allanson, Spirit-Mereh. 
 
 Mr. Tortle, Breeches-maker. 
 
 Mr. Todd, Toy-man. 
 
 Mr. Crawford, Watch-maker. 
 
 Mr. Dale, Tin-man. 
 
 Mr. Tisseyman, Stay-maker. 
 
 Mr Mallory, Grocer. 
 
 Mr Cullcn, Draper. 
 
 Mr. Smith, ditto. 
 
 Mr. Frankland, Saddler. 
 
 Mr. Estill, Draper. 
 
 Mr. Cracknell, Jeweller. 
 
 Mr. Bland, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Men net 1, Draper. 
 
 Mr. Bancroft, Watch-maker 
 
 Mr. Harrison, Tea- Dealer. 
 
 Mr. Bye, Tin-mart. 
 
 Mr. Wei bourn, Grocer. 
 
 Mr Powley, Taylor. 
 
 Mr. Fowler, Draper. 
 
 Mr. Barton, Breeches-maker 
 
 Mr. Percy, Shoe-maker. 
 
 Mr Windle, Grocer. 
 
 Mr Tomlinson, Shoe-maker. 
 
 Mr White, Grocer. 
 
 Mr Stephens. 
 
 Mr. Anderson, Saddler. 
 
 Mr. Watkinson, Grocer, 
 
 Mrs. Fox. 
 
 Mr Buhner, Taylor . 
 
 Mrs. Cooper. 
 
 BELOW THE CROSS. 
 
 Mr. Cowling, Spirit- Mercht. 
 
 Mr. Law, Weaver. 
 
 Mr. White, Brazier. 
 
 Mrs. Armstrong. 
 
 Mr. R. Woodall, Taylor. 
 
 Mr. Simpson. 
 
 Mr. Parkinson, Shoe-maker 
 Mrs Simpson, China-Shop 
 Mr. Wood, Grocer. 
 
 Mrs. Tatham. 
 
 Mrs, Rowles. 
 
 Mrs. Cowton. 
 
 Mr Wilson, Music-Shop 
 
 Mrs, Chrinceller, 
 
 LONG-ROOM-STREETi 
 
 Miss Harper. 
 
 Mrs. Seamer. 
 
 Mrs. Darley. 
 
 Mr. Skelton, two houses 
 
 Mr. Leake. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 161 
 
 TANNER-STREET, Mr. Major. 
 
 Mr. Chambers. 
 Mrs Smith, Milliner. 
 Mr Cowper. 
 Mrs. Gibson. 
 
 QUEEN-STREET. 
 
 Mr. Wilson. 
 
 Mr. Boyes, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Taylor, Gardener. 
 
 Mr. Bradshaw, Shoe-maker, 
 
 king-street, Mr. Newham. 
 
 BLANr>'s CLIFF. 
 
 Mr. Cowling. Mr. Edmond. 
 
 Mr. Wilson. Mr. Westerman, Hair-dresser, 
 
 Mr. Lilley. Mr. Nichols, Shoe-maker, 
 
 MERCHANTS'-ROW. 
 
 Mr. Moorsom. 
 
 Mr Clarke. 
 
 Mrs Bradshaw. 
 
 Mr. White, jun. 
 
 Miss Hodgson, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. White. 
 
 Mr. Davison, Shoe-maker. 
 
 Mr- Collins, Hair-dresser. 
 
 Mr. Park. 
 
 Mrs Lister. 
 
 Mr Mtddleton, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Woodall, Taylor. 
 
 Mr. Wood. 
 
 Mr. Marshall, Shoe-maker. 
 
 Mrs Parkin. 
 
 Mr. Crathorne. 
 
 Mr. Fox, Shoe-maker. 
 
 Mr. Allan, Tailor. 
 
 Mr. Allanson 
 
 Mr. French, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Wardle. 
 
 Mrs. Davison. 
 
 Miss Dowker. 
 
 Mr. Dods worth, Grocer. 
 
 Mr. Bradshaw, Ho&icr. 
 
 Mr. Hutchinson, 
 
IIBEI, 
 
 Page. 
 
 Assembly Roams c , ...... 123 
 
 Ayton...... . 37 
 
 Bakers ., 124 
 
 Bankers .'. . ...... 124 
 
 Barton 9 
 
 Baths . 132 
 
 Beswick • .'... 27 
 
 Beverley . 14 
 
 Booksellers e 124 
 
 Brompton ........... ^ 36 
 
 Burlington 106 
 
 Carriages and Carriers .. v 143 
 
 Castle-Howard...., 154 
 
 Commerce 143 
 
 Corporation ...... 164 
 
 Church. 63 
 
 Donkys 139 
 
 priffield 30 
 
 Duncombe-Park 160 
 
 Ebberstone 36 
 
 ^Exercise «.,..«• .. » ( i «....«. «.mm 125 
 
INDEX. 169 
 
 Pageo 
 
 Filey... 99 
 
 Fish 119 
 
 Flamborough-Head . 101 
 
 Fresh Water Fishing 131 
 
 Ganton Dale 31 
 
 Gardens ,, 137 
 
 Hackness 95 
 
 Hospital ....!"!!"... 132 
 
 Horses for Hire 138 
 
 Horses for Carriages 139 
 
 Hull 10 
 
 Hunmanby 100 
 
 Ilutton Bushel 37 
 
 Lodgings 134 
 
 Lodging Houses 16$ 
 
 L e c o n fi e 1 d 20 
 
 Life-Boat 146 
 
 Lincoln 8 
 
 Malton . 33 
 
 Musical Instruments — 141 
 
 Natural Productions Ill 
 
 Newspapers.. ... 141* 
 
 Packets 142 
 
 Physicians 142 
 
 Pleasure-Boats 137 
 
 Pier 97 
 
 Post-Office.. ........ ........... i 142 
 
170 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Rides 95 
 
 Robin Hood's Bay .. 107 
 
 Route to Scarborough through Hull 8 
 
 Route to Scarborough through York 32 
 
 Scampston ;.... 34 
 
 Scarborough i. a 58 
 
 Scarborough-Castle 69 
 
 Schools ..... - 147 
 
 Scorborough 26 
 
 Seamer... ......;.<,... 31 
 
 Sea-Bathing Infirmary 150 
 
 Sedan Chairs 140 
 
 Spaw 41 
 
 Surgeons and Apothecaries 132 
 
 Theatre 145 
 
 Verses on Scarborough Castle 83 
 
 Watton 27 
 
 Weaponness 99 
 
 Wine and Spirit Merchants 140 
 
 Whitby, - • . . 108 
 
 Wykeham 36 
 
 Yeddingham Bridge • . 85