Wn MlEmCTTNMlSSIOimRY
Re V^iWilliam 71. Judge, S.J.
ClassTE-V^Leoi.
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
REV. WILLIAM H. JUDGE^ S. J.
An American Missionary
A RECORD OF THE WORK
OF
RET. WILLIAM H. JUDGE, S. J
BY
REV. CHARI.es J. JUDGE, 8. S
INTRODUCTION BY
His Eminence, Cardinai. Gibbons
ILLUSTRATED
SECOND SOITION, BBVI8BD AND AUGUMENTBD
CATHOIilC FOREIGN MISSION BUREAU
63 UNION PARK ST., BOSTON, MASS.
3mprtmatur: L
lUBRARYofCONSRE^Sj
Two Copies Receivec
DEC 26 1907
, Copyngni tntry
COPY B.
4 1#( -A
> ^<\^
\
^ James Card. Gibbons,
Archie p. Baltimorensis.
Baltimorae, die 26 Aprilis, 1904.
Copyright; imj, by
Rev. Charles J. Judge, S. S.
i
I
HIS MISSION.
'Twas not for gain of glittering gold, he trod
Alaska's frozen loin;
Nay, but the superscription of their God,
On colder hearts to coin.
John B. Tabb.
CONTENTS.
Introduction ....
Preface to the Second Edition
Preface
CHAPTER I.
The Preparation ....
CHAPTER II.
The Priesthood
CHAPTER III.
The Rocky Mountain Mission
CHAPTER IV.
Off for Alaska ....
CHAPTER V.
On the Yukon
CHAPTER VI.
Forty Mile Post and Circle City
CHAPTER VII.
The Rush to the Klondike
CHAPTER VIII.
Dawson City
CHAPTER IX.
His Death and Funeral
CHAPTER X.
Tributes of Respect and Affection
ix
XIII
XVII
Page.
. 1
8
. 16
. 28
. 47
. 128
. 189
. 200
. 255
. 278
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Portrait of Father Judge .... Frontispiece.
FACING PAGE
College of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Woodstock, Md. 4 *"
Souvenir of the Rocky Mountain Missions . . . 22 '^
Unalaska , , Z2^
St. Michael, Alaska 48 •
Alaskan Missionary in Winter Costume . . . 64y
Anvik, Yukon River 77^
Archbishop Charles J. Seghers, the Apostle of Alaska . 95
Nulato, Yukon River 105^
Yukon River in Winter 121 /
Forty Mile Post 128-
Holy Cross Mission 145"'
An Eskimo and His Kyak 177"
Dawson City in the Summer of 1898 — Catholic Church
and St. Mary^s Hospital 200/^
The First Catholic Church in Dawson .... 203/
Summer Work at the Mines 214.
Front Street, Dawson 217 •
Bird's-eye View of Dawson City — Catholic Church in /
right foreground 240
Captain Jack Crawford 251
Interior of St. Mary's Church — Tomb of Father Judge 277
Map of Alaska, showing Yukon River Missions and the
Klondike , At end.y
INTRODUCTION.
THIS biography, from the pen of one who
is in complete sympathy with his sub-
ject, will prove to be, it is hoped, for the
young Levite into whose hands it may fall,
an incentive to Apostolic zeal.
Reared in a family in which the Christian
virtues were, in all patience and meekness,
daily practised as a matter of course, what
to others might have appeared unusual, Wil-
liam H. Judge deemed not extraordinary;
what to others might have had the appear-
ance of the heroic, he aspired to as but a step
above the ordinary. Whatever duties he
was assigned to he fulfilled to the best of his
powers, but throughout his life there was
the undercurrent of the missionary's zeal.
Truly he might say, '' Zelus domus tuae com-
edit me.''*
Nothing daunted by the hardships that a
life in the far Northwest most certainly had
in store for the venturesome soul that en-
tered its icy confines, he hailed with delight
* " The zeal of thy house hath eaten me up."— P^. Ixviii, 10.
ix
X An American Missionary
the command to go and preach. The story
of his work, its sufferings, its privations, its
disappointments, its consolations and joys, is
here told by one eminently fitted for the
labor of love.
What I would particularly ask the reader
to note is the tone of cheerfulness which
characterizes the letters of Father Judge.
These, we may believe, reflect the spirit of
joy which illumined his soul ever, in spite of
the dark days of hardship and privation
through which he passed. In this we find a
lesson. The true missionary's life is not one
of sadness and brooding over what, to the
world, would seem a sad lot. His life is
hidden in God. Is he successful, God be
praised; is he unsuccessful, God be praised
none the less. This joyful spirit in the midst
of what is calculated to produce the opposite
effect is characteristic of those generous,
holy souls whose life reads '' per Ipsum, et
cum Ipso, et in Ipso est Tibi Deo Patri Om-
nipotenti in unitate Spiritus Sancti, omnis
honor et gloria.''*
He who would follow in the footsteps of
Father Judge, in the like spirit of patience
and meekness, may confidently expect, even
in this life, peace and tranquility of soul oc-
* Through Him, and with Him, and in Him is to Thee God
the Father Omnipotent in the unity of the Holy Ghost, all
honor and glory. — Canon of the Mass,
Introduction xi
casionally brightened by the sweetest conso-
lation, according to the promises of our
Lord, of a hundredfold even in this life.
May this biography inspire other gener-
ous souls to take up the burden from which
God has called Father Judge to his reward.
This, I think, is the main purpose of this
book — '' Ut Ecclesia Dei aedificationem ac-
cipiat."*
J. Card. Gibbons.
Baltimore, June loth, 1904.
* " That the Church may receive edification." — L Cor, xiv, 5.
PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
THE kindly reception accorded ''An
American Missionary ^^ has cheered and
encouraged the editor. The Httle volume
has given pleasure and edification even be-
yond his expectations. That this pleasure
and edification may be extended to others
and perpetuated is sufficient reason for of-
fering to the public this second edition.
We take this opportunity to thank Arnold
F. George, of Dawson, J. W. Crawford
(Capt. Jack) — the well-known Lecturer —
C. H. Higgins of Steelton, Pa., and E. C.
Gerow of Seattle, for their assistance in fill-
ing out the narrative, and E. A. Hegg of
Seattle, for permission to use photographs.
A happy result of the publication of Father
Judge's letters, has been to bring us into
communication with some of his old Klon-
dike friends, and to elicit further expressions
of their love and admiration for the Mis-
sionary.
These and other communications have
given us the comforting assurance that our
effort to tell the simple truth without frater-
nal bias has been successful. The following
xiii
xiv An American Missionary
words of the editor of the Dawson Daily-
News show that, if we have erred, it has
been on the right side : " I fancy . . from
the tenor of your whole letter, that you are
being made a convert. I mean that your
correspondence with those like myself, who
had the felicity of a personal acquaintance
with your brother in the last years of his life,
has not been without its effect .... You
are now reaching the point of view of some-
one outside of the family. The love and ad-
miration of a brother or sister .... is a
beautiful thing, but altogether a different
thing from the sentiment of love Father
Judge inspired in the thousands here ....
It was of the nature of reverence, and those
who knew him most intimately experienced
the most of this reverence.
So I fancy in future editions of the book
I shall see more of the same spirit as my
own, and less of the brotherly diffidence no-
ticeable in the first edition. I realize, after
all, that though a brother's touch may be
most truly loving, there are curbs, checks,
and bounds. So let me suggest that brother-
ly apprehension lest too much be said, while
indicating family modesty, is not necessary
in the case of Father Judge. The most that
family and personal love could dictate in
affectionate adulation, would yet come far
short of the general estimate here. '^
Preface xv
There is then reason to hope that it will
now do the work no injury, for the public to
know that it is edited by " my brother's
brother. '' A source of great satisfaction
is the fact that this edition is published by
and for the benefit of the Catholic Foreign
Mission Bureau of Boston. Thus, Father
Judge will still be working for the Missions ;
the usefulness of his words and labors will
not have ended with his short missionary
career.
St. Chables' College, Md.
Feast of the Assumption^ August 15th, 1901,
PREFACE.
"God speaks to us still, as He spoke to our forefathers."
— Fr, Caussade.
TO the youth of America, who feel them-
selves called to the Priesthood or the
religious life, this narrative is dedicated, in
the hope that it may cheer them on their
way, and encourage them in times of diffi-
culty. It is the simple story of one like
themselves, born in the same circumstances,
living for years in the same everyday world,
and encountering the same difficulties that
they may encounter in corresponding to the
call of God. Yet, with all this absence of
the extraordinary, there is evidence in this
life, of a call from God, of a heavenly voca-
tion, and of the divine assistance for its
perfect accomplishment.
Is it not a happiness to think that, in the
midst of this work-a-day world of ours,
amidst the bustle of city life or the humble
occupations of an ordinary home, " God
speaks to us still, as He spoke to our fore-
fathers"? Yes, He speaks to us as He
spoke to the Saints whose lives we read with
awe and admiration.
xvii
xviii An American Missionary
If we look around us, as we jjass through
the crowded street, or enter the busy store
or the trolley-car, we see youths or maidens
who, to all appearance, are occupied with
temporal business or intent on pleasure; but
could we look into some of those hearts, how
our impressions would change ! We would
find that there is One, Who is omnipotent.
Who is divinely benignant, knocking at the
door, and calling to those souls to give them-
selves to Him, and Hib knocking is not
always disregarded. His call is not always
rejected. There may be clouds of doubt,
there may be obstacles innumerable, but
the voice of God is potent in its goodness,
and in its patient condescension. The
Word of God that thus speaks to a soul is
light and life, as St. John says : " In the be-
ginning was the Word In him was
life and the life was the light of men.'' *
Little by little the ligrht enters the soul of
a youth, and gradually new vistas open,
paths to him untrodden, which lead to great
and good things, to God and heaven. Then
with the light come strength and courage;
and, after a time, his young heart feels that
no prospect of difficulty or sacrifice can deter
it from following the gracious call of the
Lord; no temporal pleasure, no earthly
happiness can have any weight, when
* St. John i, 1, 4.
Preface
XIX
balanced against the joy of doing the will
of God.
Hence we see the young man or the young
woman quitting gladly what others may
look upon as bright prospects, but which
these favored souls consider only as liga-
ments, which would bind them too closely
to this lower world, and from which they
are glad to be free. They feel in greater or
l^ss degree the noble sentiment which the
Church attributes to St. Henry, Emperor of
Germany, when she says of him, " Not con-
tent with the narrow limits of a temporal
kingdom, he sedulously served the Eternal
King, in order to obtain the crown of im-
mortality,'' and that other, expressed by St.
Stanislaus Kostka in these words : '' I was
not born for temporal things, but for eter-
nal."
St. Charles' College, Md.
Feast of the Sacred Hearty June 10th, 1904.
CHAPTER L
THE PREPARATION.
" Speak, Lord, for Thy servant heareth."— / Kings, Hi, 10.
I WAS in Paris, in 1875, when I received a
letter from the subject of this sketch, in
which he informed me that permission had
been given him to go to the Jesuit Novitiate
at Frederick, Md. '' It was the happiest day
of my Hfe,'' he wrote, " for you know that
ever since the time of my First Communion,
I have wished to enter the Society/' " I
knew no such thing,'' I said to myself; for
I had not been aware that he thought of the
priesthood, or of entering the Society of
Jesus. However, I was pleased to hear that
he was thus able to take the first step
towards realizing his long-cherished desire.
One element in his joy was the fact that he
had found he was not, as he had supposed,
too old to begin the preparation.
Born in Baltimore, April 28th, 1850,
William Henry Judp^e was twenty-five years
pld when he was admitted to the Novitiate.
About ten years before, he had begun to
study at Loyola College, Baltimore: but,
after one year, he was obliged to quit his
1
2 An American Missionary
studies for an occupation better suited to the
state of his health. For ten years he was an
active clerk in one of the largest planing-
mills of Baltimore. Here he gained a
practical knowledge of woodwork and of
building, which afterwards in his missionary
career he found vastly useful.
What was going on in his soul during
those years of business life appears in some
lines which he wrote to one of his brothers
in March, 1874. " You spoke of the thoughts
and feelings which you experienced in
church the Saturday evening following the
reception of A's letter and mine, both of
which contained much concerning N's recep-
tion and my intention of soon following her
example. This naturally made you think as
you did ; and I do not know any better time
or place for serious reflection, than Saturday
night in church. There in the stillness of
the night, by the dim light of the Sanctuary
lamp, we see our intentions, as well as the
pride and ambition of the world, much more
clearly than at almost any other time. I
have often, when in the Cathedral or the Col-
lege (St, Ignatius Church) at that time,
thought : * Here another week has passed,
and now that it is gone what difference does
it make whether it has passed pleasantly, or
I have had many trials and much worry and
trouble, if my conscience does not reproach
The Preparation 3
me with having misspent it ' : and I judge
that we shall feel very much the same, when
we come to look back on our whole life, for
the last time/' The reception spoken of in
his letter was that of one of his sisters, who
entered the convent of the Sisters of Mercy
on the same day that another sister made her
profession as a religious of the Good Shep-
herd.
As time wore on, he resumed his studies,
as far as his duties at the office would permit.
No wonder that after ten years of longing
and suspense, his heart bounded with joy and
gratitude when, on August 23, 1875, he was
admitted into the Novitiate at Frederick.
The years of prayer and study which fol-
lowed, were happy ones for him; indeed,
from that time, he was always joyous: for
we shall see that, even amid the hardships
of the Alaskan Mission, he usually ended his
letters with the expression, " I am well and
happy/^ In truth, what happiness can com-
pare with that of being in the way of one's
vocation, of feeling sure that he is doing
God's will, and that consequently he is on
the road to peace and usefulness in this life,
and eternal happiness in the next : — '' Qui
facit voluntatem Dei manet in aeternum."*
He said to one of his brothers, that he had for
*"He that doeth the will of God, abideth forever."—
/ John J ii, 17.
4 An American Missionary
years pictured to himself the happiness of
the Novitiate, but that he had never thought
it was so great as he found it to be.
His novitiate and juniorate over, the
young Jesuit taught for three years in Gon-
zaga College, Washington, D. C. ; gave a
year to the study of philosophy at Wood-
stock; acted as prefect and teacher in
Georgetown College, for a year; and then, in
1883, returned, for the study of theology, to
the great House of Studies, the College of
the Sacred Heart of Jesus, at Woodstock,
Md.
Here, again, his heart must have been filled
with gratitude to God for his vocation, and
for the privilege of studying in a place so
well fitted to foster the spirit of so high a
calling. Even a casual visitor to Wood-
stock would pronounce it an ideal place for
study, elevated as it is high above the wind-
ing Patapsco and the railroad, and separated
thus from the ordinary world. The student
is aided by his very surroundings to raise his
mind to heaven; and yet, as he casts his eye,
from time to time, far down to the river, the
little village, and the rushing trains, he is
reminded that, as a priest of God, he is to
live not for himself alone, but for the up-
lifting, and the salvation of his neighbor.
In September, 1883, William Judge wrote:
C
o
o
o
a»
H
o
n
The Preparation 5
'' I am glad to be back at Woodstock again,
and if all goes well, I hope to be ordained
two years from next Easter. We have a very
large community this year, a splendid body
of young men, and I expect a very happy
time/' Later in the came year, he shows
how he was beginning to combine fraternal
affection with zeal for a brother's spiritual
good. '' I cannot tell you how glad it makes
me to find you so comfortable and happy, but
especially to see 5^ou, while you are enjoying
these blessings, laying up for yourself an
eternal reward by the faithful practice of
your religious duties. At the same time, by
your good example, you are forming the
hearts and minds of your little ones to the
love and esteem of virtue; thus giving them
a treasure as much greater than the goods
of this world, as heaven is above earth."
Busy years were those of the scholasticate ;
the time wisely divided between study and
prayer, with hours of recreation and rest in-
terspersed. Although some may wonder
how so long a preparation is required to fit
the scholastic or the seminarian for his work,
the initiated find, as did the future mission-
ary at Woodstock, that the days of twenty-
four hours, are only too short.
Finally the great day of ordination to the
Holy Priesthood arrived. On August 28tH,
6 An American Missionary
1886, William H. Judge, with a number of
his fellow scholastics, received the sacred
order of the Priesthood from the hands of
Archbishop Gibbons, in the beautiful chapel
of the College at Woodstock.
Thus, after eleven years of prayer and
study, the young Jesuit found himself
clothed with the character and blessed with
the powers and the graces of the Priesthood.
He would have been content to be even a
Brother in the Society of Jesus, but he found
his good-will rewarded with that superem-
inent gift which raises a mortal man so
near to God, his Savior. Jesus says to all
His. priests, as He did to His Apostles: " I
will not now call you servants, for the ser-
vant knoweth not what his lord doeth. But
I have called you friends, because all things
whatsoever I have heard from my Father, I
have made known to you."*
The young priest feels the truth of these
words of St. Ephrem : '^ O tremendous mys-
tery of the Priesthood, spiritual and holy,
venerable and blameless, which Christ, com-
ing into this world, has bestowed even upon
the unworthy ! On bended knee, with tears
and sighs, I beg that we consider this treas-
ure of the Priesthood. A treasure it is for
those who worthily and holily guard it. It
is a bright and incomparable shield, a firm
♦St. John XV, 15.
The Preparation 7
tower, an impregnable wall, a solid and
stable structure reaching from earth to the
heights of heaven/'^
t Sermon of St. Ephrem the Deacon — De Sacerdotio.
CHAPTER 11.
THE PRIESTHOOD.
" If I were to meet a priest and an angel, I would salute
the priest before the angel; for the angel is the friend of
God, but the priest holds His place." — Cure of Ars.
THE reception of the Holy Priesthood was
a joy not only for the young levite, but
also for his relatives. One of his brothers was
present on the solemn occasion, but others
who could not enjoy that favor, awaited his
coming to receive his blessing and assist at
his Mass. It must have been especially con-
soling for him to visit his sisters in their
convent homes and to offer the Holy Sacri-
fice in those sanctuaries, where faith and
love spare no pains to render the altar and
its surroundings worthy of the Divine Visi-
tor, who comes at the consecration.
After a few days passed in holy joy and
thanksgiving. Father Judge took up his ap-
pointed work as Minister at Woodstock.
No doubt, in selecting Father Judge for
this important office, his superiors wished to
utilize his experience in the world; and in
this, they were not disappointed. The young
8
The Priesthood 9
Minister threw his whole heart into the
work of superintending the great House of
Studies, and of ministering to the wants of
his brethren, with earnest zeal and cheerful
alacrity.
Any one acquainted with such Institu-
tions knows how heavy is the task of the
Minister, or, as he is called in some places,
the Procurator or Treasurer; what patience
and benignity he needs to meet properly the
thousand and one demands of perhaps two
or three hundred persons. Yet this active
life of business, charity, and zeal seemed to
have a charm for the young priest. He
thought he had found his life-work in the
fruitful labors of a '^ Minister " ; but he was
not to stay long amid the charming scenes
and studious associations of the College of
the Sacred Heart.
However, the years that He spent there as
Minister, were no bad apprenticeship to the
life of active charity and zeal which he was
later to lead as a Missionary.
As an instance of the cheerfulness with
which Father Judge gave himself up to this
labor of love, we may mention an excursion
of the vacation time. According to custom,
a number of Novices, or Juniors, from the
house in Frederick, were spending their
weeks of relaxation at Woodstock. To vary
their recreation, an excursion to the grounds
10 An American Missionary
of St. Charles' College, some five miles off,
was arranged for them. The Father Min-
ister accompanied the young men, and spent
the day with them joyously and obligingly.
To the west of the College campus is a fine
wood of oak, chestnut, and hickory. Here
the excursionists established themselves and,
as noon approached, prepared their rustic
dinner. A two-horse team had brought all
that was necessary, even down to the pepper
and salt for the soup, and the sauce for the
slapjacks. Little stone furnaces were im-
provised, and soon soup was simmering,
potatoes boiling, and beefsteak frying. It
was a pleasant sight to see the Rev. Minister
moving among the impromptu cooks, cheer-
ing them with his joyous activity, and taking
a generous share in the work. One of the
faculty of St. Charles\ who was invited to
join the company, declared that he had never
before eaten such slapjacks as those cooked
on that occasion by Father Judge. This was
a prelude to the good work that he did later
on for the inmates of his hospital in Dawson.
After two years, Father Judge was sent to
the Novitiate at Frederick, there to exercise
the same useful functions that had claimed
all his devotion at Woodstock.
About this time he wrote to his youngest
sister, who was not yet settled in her voca-
tion. The letter discloses his love for the
The Priesthood 11
religious life, and also his desire to go to the
Western Missions.
Woodstock College,
Woodstock, Howard Co., Md., July 3, 1888.
Dear Sister,
Pax Christi !
I received your letter of June 24th a few
days ago, but I have been so very busy that
it was impossible to answer sooner. I think
you overlooked one clause in my last letter,
for I think I said '' if you were once settled
in the cloister, I would be less anxious about
writing to you,'' because then you would not
need my letters. But while you are in your
present state, I shall do my best to repair my
past want of regularity in writing to you,
especially as you tell me my letters encour-
age you to go on more courageously in the
service of our dear Lord, and therefore any
time I can steal from my work for that pur-
pose, will be well spent.
Since receiving your letter, I have redou-
bled my prayers in your behalf, and I shall
not rest until I see you safe in the cloister, or
perfectly happy, as far as one can be happy
in this land of exile. Why do you hesitate?
Do as I did at the time of ordination. With
good reason, I was unwilling to take the re-
12 An American Missionary
sponsibility on myself, so I left it entirely to
my superiors to say what I should do, and
they said, '' Go ahead, we take the responsi-
bility/' Now, no matter how unfit I find
myself, I have no anxiety, for I feel sure that
in following their advice, I did what God
wished and that He will turn all to His own
glory, and my good. I shall say Mass for
you to-morrow, and again next Sunday,
which will be the 8th, and after that, I shall
say it for you every Friday, until we obtain
from the Sacred Heart for you that peace
which can come from It alone.
I shall also make a novena to St. John
Berchmans, who, you know, was canonized
at the time of the Pope's Jubilee, hoping the
Sacred Heart will grant our petition more
readily when presented by one whom He has
been pleased to raise so lately to the honors
of the Altar. We should derive great con-
solation from the canonization of St.
Berchmans, because all his sanctity consisted
in doing his ordinary actions with great
purity of intention, which is so easy, and
adds nothing to the burden of life, but rather
lightens it very much, since nothing seems
hard to do for one we love.
Our Provincial has lately been changed,
and I have renewed my request for the Rocky
Mountain Missions, and it has been more
favorably received than by the late Provin-
The Priesthood 13
cial, but I have not received a positive answer
yet. If I am allowed to go, I may pass your
way; and, if possible, I shall get permission
to see you. I expect an answer within a few
weeks, and I shall let you know the result as
soon as I hear.
In concluding, I beg you to put yourself
entirely in the hands of your superiors, re-
ceiving as the certain will of God whatever
they determine.
I must stop, it is now eleven P. M., and my
alarm goes off at a quarter before four. I
need not tell you that I am very happy,
thanks to the goodness of God; not that I
have nothing to trouble me — for I have had
no end of causes of worry and vexation in the
management of a big community like this —
but I know that no matter what happens, it
is God's will it should be so, and therefore I
would not wish it to be otherwise on any
account.
Begging you to pray often for me, and to
thank our dear Lord for all his goodness to
one so unworthy, I must say good-by.
Your loving Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
Another year passed before he obtained
leave to go to the Missions, and that year he
spent as Minister at Frederick.
May I2th, 1889, he wrote to one of his
14 An American Missionary
sisters : " I intend to start for the West on
Monday, May 20th, and, if agreeable to Rev.
Mother and yourself, I would like to say
Mass for you on that morning at the Con-
vent/'
Then came the farewell visits to his rela-
tives, before setting out for the Rocky
Mountain Missions. These partings were
not sad, for all expected to see him again.
After leaving Baltimore, he stopped in St.
Louis and spent a pleasant evening with his
eldest brother, and again in Denver, to pay
the promised visit to his sister in the Good
Shepherd Convent, where he said Mass, on
the feast of the Ascension, May 30th. Al-
though this last adieu must have been,
naturally speaking, a trial, it was no doubt
with a heart full of spiritual joy and consola-
tion, that Father Judge started on the trip
through the Rockies.
It is a delightful experience to journey, as
he did, through such scenes at the end of
May. The gorges and canyons between
Denver and northern Idaho are always grand
and inspiriting, but how lovely they must be
in the spring season, when the resurrection
of nature clothes forest and plain in verdure,
awakens to new life the animal kingdom on
the earth and in the air, and whispers to the
heart of man that this earth of ours has not
been wholly corrupted. And yet, much as
The Priesthood 15
our traveller must have enjoyed the novelty
and the beauty of this trip, we are inclined
to think that he took the same gen-
erous view of the matter that we have
heard expressed by a Missionary in Oceania,
who said : '' The scenery along the way is
superb, but as I am not a tourist but a Mis-
sionary, I will leave it to others to describe.
What is picturesque from my point of view
is that the valley is well populated and that
there are plenty of young people fresh from
school, so that our services are carried on
with enthusiasm."*
We may well suppose that Father Judge
said to himself: ''This is sublime indeed,
and blessed be God who grants us such joys,
in this our exile; but what is most joyful to
me is that this swift-moving train is bearing
me to the scene of a labor of love, to the Mis-
sions established by Marquette and De
Smet."
* Annals of Prop, of the Faith. May and June, 1902. p.
132.
CHAPTER HI.
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN MISSION.
" Forgetting the things that are behind ... I press towards
the mark, to the prize of the supernal vocation of God in
Christ ]tsns:'— Philip, Hi. 13, 14.
IT would seem that our Missionary went
* first to Spokane, Washington, where the
Fathers of the Society of Jesus have a Col-
lege and a church; and there or at Walla
Walla, he helped in the parish work at
Christmas and in Lent. The year however
was to be chiefly spent by him in making his
" Tertianship,'' or third year of probation, as
a Jesuit, at the De Smet Mission in Idaho.
He went there on August 28th, the third an-
niversary of his ordination to the holy
Priesthood.
He gives us an idea of the Mission and of
his Tertianship in a letter, under date of
September 15th, 1889:
" This Mission is in the Coeur D'Alene
Reservation in the northern part of Idaho,
and is a delightful place. The Reservation
is about thirty miles long and twenty wide.
We are in the southern part of it, about six
miles from the Washington line.
16
The Rocky Mountain Mission 17
'' I have never enjoyed so good health any-
where else as I have here; nor do I think
that I have been so completely happy even
in my noviceship; for then there v^as always
the fear of not being received, to mar my
happiness; and besides, I now have the
Priesthood with its joys, which I had not
then. But this is the last resting-place, so
you must pray hard for me this year, that I
may lay in a good store of piety and solid
virtue, so that I may be able hereafter to do
something for God, in return for all that he
has done, and is doing for me.
" Do not think that I am leaving you be-
hind; for, although I came to the Mission
with the desire of suffering something for
our Lord, as yet I have had no opportunity,
nor do I hope for any this year. What may
be in store for me when I leave here I do not
know, but God's will be done! We must
always remember that perfection consists
not in this or that, but in doing God's holy
will. Let us pray for each other that we
may never have any other intention in all we
do than that of fulfilling His holy will."
In another letter, written towards the end
of the year, April 20th, 1890, he tells us what
was expected to be the fruit of this last year
of probation and spiritual exercises. " By
a special permission of Very Rev. Father
General, I am to take my last vows on the
18 An American Missionary
Feast of the Ascension, May iSth. I shall
begin my retreat, on the 6th. Pray for me
especially during this retreat, that God may
give me the true spirit of the Society, to
which, in His great mercy. He has called me.
When we make these vows, we are expected
to be perfect Jesuits, men who are crucified
to the world, and to whom the world is cru-
cified, men who have but one object in life,
namely, to promote God's greater glory/'
And now we have an example of how the
grace of God leads men of good will and of
generous love to do with ease and joy, what
less faithful spirits would deem impossible;
nay, what they themselves, earlier in their
course, would have thought a romantic fancy
or a pious dream.
We have seen how the grace of his voca-
tion had enabled William Judge to quit the
busy world, to sever himself from the scenes
of his youth, and to bid adieu to his friends
and relatives in the East. He is now in the
Rocky Mountain Mission, happy in the
thought that he is soon to do something for
God and souls.
But the spirit of charity and zeal urges
him to go still further. He has heard that
volunteers are needed for the distant and
arduous mission of Alaska, and promptly he
offers himself for the work. Writing to
Woodstock about this time, he says : '^ I
The Rocky Mountain Mission 19
am going to Alaska on the next steamer. I
offered myself when I first came; but, as
there are so many who would be happy to be
sent, I hardly hoped to be selected this year/'
In a letter to one of his sisters, he speaks of
the intended step in these terms : '' You
may have heard, by this time, that I am go-
ing to Alaska. Much to my joy, I have been
appointed to join the five Fathers already
there, and I shall leave about the middle of
May for San Francisco, where I shall take
the steamer for St. Michael.''
The buoyancy and strength of the mission-
ary spirit which now animated the young
Jesuit, are shown in a letter written to con-
sole his younger sister, in the grief that she
naturally felt at the thought of his departure
for so distant a field of labor.
De Smet Mission, April 27th, 1890.
Dear Sister:
Pax Christi !
The promptness with which you answered
my last letter, urges me to write at once, that
I may thus in some sort allay the sorrow that
the news of my going to Alaska has caused
you. Your letter came to me, as mine did to
you, late in the evening, so that I could not
read it until this morning. It has edified me
very much ; for, while I understand fully the
tears you shed, your spirit of perfect resigna-
20 An American Missionary
tion makes me thank God exceedingly. It
shows me that your sorrow is that true
Christian sorrow, which our Lord has prom-
ised will be turned into joy, and which, so
far from robbing you of the merit of the
sacrifice that God demands of you, only in-
creases its value.
Is it not a coincidence that the Gospel of
the day,* and my meditation, should be on
the joy that our Lord promises to those who
suffer here for his sake? We make this sac-
rifice because we believe it is pleasing to
Him; and therefore we may be sure He will
keep His word and give us a joy that no man
shall take from us. I am sure neither of us
would refuse our Lord anything He might
ask from us, no matter how hard it might be
to nature. I like very much what you say
about prayer being our telephone and the
Sacred Heart the main office. How great
should be our love and gratitude towards
God for His great goodness to us! This
thought affects me very much and makes me
feel an intense and personal love for God,
and makes me realize how personal is his
love for us. He has ever been a most sweet.
* Gospel of the third Sunday after Easter, St. John xvi,
in which occur these words of our Lord : " Amen, amen, I
say to you that you shall lament and weep, but the world
will rejoice; and you shall be made sorrowful, but your
sorrow shall be turned into joy . . . and your joy no man
shall take from you."
The Rocky Mountain Mission 21
bountiful, and indulgent Father to us, so we
must try our best to prove ourselves most
loving children.
Remember above all that it is our love He
v^ants, our hearts, and nothing else. He
stands not in need of our goods or our labor;
He can do all things by an act of His will,
but He will not force us to love Him ; and yet
it is that alone that He cares for, '' Son, give
me thy heart.'' Let us not refuse it to Him,
but let us cast ourselves into His arms, and
tell Him to do with us whatever is most
pleasing to Him, and to grant that hence-
forth we may never have any will but to do
His holy will. From my childhood, I have
always found an intense pleasure in the ac-
complishment of God's holy will, and my
favorite ejaculation has been: '' Lord, only
be it Thy divine will, and be it done unto me
a sinner, even unto death !''
Such were the sentiments with which
Father Judge made his retreat at De Smet,
and took his last vows on the feast of the
Ascension, May 15th, 1890.
Though we have no account of the cere-
mony of that day, we can easily imagine the
fervor and the joy of soul with which the
would-be apostle received his Lord in Holy
Communion, and offered himself once more
to be all for God. ^' Laetus obtuli universa."*
* " I have joyfully offered all."—/ Par. xxiv, 17.
22 An American Missionary
That must have been a day of joy in the
humble Mission-house of the Fathers at De
Smet.
The little souvenir reproduced on the op-
posite page is of interest as it gives us auto-
graphs of Father Judge and other Mission-
aries of the North West. According to
Father Barnum, it was Father Joset, the sec-
ond on the list, that composed the prayer,
adapting it to the use of the Sons of St.
Ignatius from the prayer used by the Church
for the octave of St. Lawrence, August 17th.
In English it would run thus : '^ Stir up, O
Lord Jesus, in thy Society, the spirit which
animated our Blessed Father Ignatius, that
we being replenished with the same, may
strive to love what he loved, and to practise
what he taught.''
Almost immediately, on May 17th, our
Missionary bade farewell to his fellow
priests and started for the Pacific coast.
Fifteen days after the feast of the Ascension,
he wrote from San Francisco. Distance
seemed only to render stronger the bonds of
affection for his brothers and sisters, and
religious devotion elevated and purified that
affection. In spite of the absorbing duties
of preparation for the long voyage, he found
time to write several letters. We may
quote from these some passages which show
A. M. D. G.
fsts
(Mil
S8U
SS8
Excita, Domine Jesu, in tua Societate «a
spiritum, cui Beatus Ignatius Pater noster '^
servivit, ut ecdem nos repleti, studeamus ?5?
amare quod amavit et opere exercere quod s|i^
8S«
docuit. Qui vivis
^i^ /*♦«/• *<^^#K
^8
ail
I)Rf>MKT
SOUVENIR OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN MISSION
Found in Father Judge's Breviary after his death
The Rocky Mountain Mission 23
the gratitude and joy that animated him on
the eve of his departure from San Francisco.
San Francisco, May 30, 1890.
Dear Brother:
Pax Christi !
Your last letter came this morning. The
other I received on the day of my vows,
together v^ith the '' Vade Mecum''; but, as
I had only one day to pack up, it v^as im-
possible for me to w^rite before starting. I
know not how to acknowledge the many
marks of kindness you are continually show-
ing me. My breviaries have been a constant
reminder of your affection, and now you
send the " Vade Mecum/' that I may have
you with me not only while reciting the
Office, but also when going to visit the sick.
The boat I am going on — the St. Paul — is
now in port, but the time of starting has been
changed to the loth, so I have a little more
time. I am very glad of the delay; for
otherwise, I could not answer all the kind
letters that I have received from members
of the family and others during the last few
weeks. You need not envy me the happiness
that God has been so good as to bestow on
me by calling me to the Missions, for your
mission is not less meritorious, and it may
even be more trying to soul and body. Be-
24 An American Missionary
sides, you know that all our perfection
consists in doing God's holy will, and you
have no reason to doubt that you are fulfill-
ing it most perfectly.
On the same day he wrote to a younger
brother: '' When I read your letters, so full
of affection, it is hard to keep back the tears;
and yet they do not make me sad or unnerve
me, for I know that by leaving you for our
dear Lord's sake, I do far more for your hap-
piness than I could by remaining with you.
We cannot outdo Him in generosity. He
always repays, a hundredfold, every little
sacrifice we make for His sake. If men
would only believe our Lord when He tells
them ' My yoke is sweet and my burden
light,' how much happier they would be both
now and for all eternity! To me there is
nothing so sad as to see men, created to
know and love God here and to be happy
with Him for all eternity, living like mere
animals, with no higher aspirations than to
eat, drink, and enjoy themselves. And yet
how many thousands there are who live and
die in these sentiments.
How thankful we ought to be for the gift
of faith, and how careful not to lose it.
Try always to remember that God is our
father, and heaven our true home, and that
now we are as travellers, journeying towards
home, and we must not be cast down if we
The Rocky Mountain Mission 25
meet some difficulties and hardships on the
way; for the more we suffer now for God's
sake, the more happy we shall be for eter-
nity."
On June 4th, he writes to one of his sisters,
'' I have been so busy preparing for my long
journey, or rather providing for the time to
come, that I have not been able to answer
the many kind letters I have received from
all sides, wishing me ' God speed ! ^ Now my
time is so limited, I shall have to be much
shorter than I would wish. I find that dis-
tance cannot separate us from our friends,
for it seems to me that the farther I with-
draw from you, the nearer I feel; and this is
especially the case with those who have
learned how sweet it is to leave all for
Christ's sake, and to be united with their
friends in the most loving Heart of Jesus.
May we ever find a sweet home and a safe
refuge in that Sacred Heart, and let us plead
for each other at that throne of grace, until
our term of exile is past and we meet again
in Its sweet embraces never more to be sep-
arated."
While waiting for the day of departure, he
paid a visit to the College of the Society in
Santa Clara, a short distance south of San
Francisco. No doubt he experienced in both
places the happiness of being a member of a
widely spread Order, as he found a home and
26 An American Missionary
congenial surroundings in each place.
Whilst in Santa Clara College, he wrote:
" When I consider all tliat God has done for
me, it fills me with a most ardent desire to
do and suffer great things for His glory, and
awakens in me a most childlike love and an
unbounded confidence in Him. Let us then
once for all resign ourselves into the hands
of our loving Father, and take care never to
desire anything but what He pleases to or-
dain both for ourselves and for our friends,
and for all and in all things. Then all the
changes of Superiors, companions, places
of abode, etc., will have no power to disturb
our peace of soul, but will rather make us
happier, because we shall rejoice to see the
will of our dear Father thus accompHshed.''
Returned to San Francisco, he wrote the
night before his departure for Alaska : " I
cannot tell you how happy I feel. I thank
God exceedingly for His great goodness to
me, and hope you will help me to make some
return of gratitude for so many favors."
One day earlier, he wrote to his Superior:
" We shall sail on the St. Paul on Tuesday,
loth, at II A. M. All here have been very
kind, have given me many things, and helped
me in many ways. I am sorry I have no
word to take to Fr. Tosi about the Sisters.
My health is good, and I was never happier
in my life. May God grant me grace and
The Rocky Mountain Mission 27
strength to do and suffer something for His
glory/' Thus it was with buoyant spirits
and a joyful heart, that on June loth, 1890,
our missionary embarked for the distant
Mission of Alaska, practically bidding adieu
to his own country.
CHAPTER IV.
OFF FOR ALASKA.
"Go ye therefore and teach all nations." — Matt, xxviii, 19.
WE can imagine with what feehngs of
mingled joy and hope Father Judge
stood upon the deck of the St. Paul, that
June morning, and, with all the supplies and
presents for the Mission safe on board, and
the faithful Brother by his side, watched the
deck hands casting off and hauling in the
hawsers that held the steamer to her moor-
ings. There was the usual feeling of relief
and repose after a busy season of prepara-
tion and farewell; but there were also
sentiments of joy and gratitude as he realized
that now he was actually a Missionary,
about to imitate in an humble way the Apos-
tle whose name, by a happy coincidence, the
vessel bore — St. Paul.
The voyage was to be a long one, lasting
over a month, with one or two stops between
San Francisco and St. Michael; the first
stage being an uninterrupted run across the
waters of the Pacific to Unalaska Island.
28
Off for Alaska 29
We have only one letter written during the
thirteen days of this, Father Judge's first ex-
perience of ocean travel, and we give the
greater part of it here.
On the Pacific, 2,000 miles from San
Francisco,
June 22nd, 1890.
Dear Sister:
I have been listening to you for the last
half-hour speaking through your letters.
My rule has been not to keep letters after
I have answered them, but I have made an
exception with regard to the six that you
have written since you heard of my appoint-
ment to the Alaskan Mission. I have felt
that they would be useful to me as spiritual
reading during the year; for, I assure you
that your letters have always had the effect
of spurring me on to greater generosity in
God's holy service.
This is the first attempt that I have made
to write on the boat, so you must not wonder
at the character of the writing, as the vessel
is not over steady.
I do not remember whether I told you
about my visit to Victoria, or not. From De
Smet I went to Spokane Falls for a few days,
then by rail to Tacoma, a fine growing City
on Puget Sound, where I took a steamer for
Victoria, Vancouver Island. Victoria is an
30 An American Missionary
old town, with about forty thousand inhabi-
tants. There I saw our Bishop, the Rt. Rev.
J. N. Lemmens, and returned to Tacoma the
next day.
Thence I went straight on to Portland,
Oregon, where I arrived on Saturday after-
noon (May 24th), the eve of Pentecost, and
stopped at the Archbishop's in order to be
able to say Mass on Sunday.*
Portland is a fine large city, with a Cathe-
dral and four or five other churches. All
these cities would surprise a person from the
East. Though they have not the population
of the great eastern cities, they have all the
appearance of large cities, and no doubt they
will soon be such. From Portland I came
direct to San Francisco, a distance of about
seven hundred miles. It takes two days to
make the journey, on account of the heavy
grades on the mountains. The scenery
is the grandest that I have witnessed
anywhere. The road winds up the moun-
tains like a serpent, and at some points you
can see below you three and even five sec-
tions of track, over which you have passed.
In Oregon the weather was warm, but when
♦The Most Rev. Wm. H. Gross was Archbishop of Port-
land at the time. If Father Judge found his Grace at home,
he must have been encouraged by the genial manner and
the earnest zeal of the good Prelate, who was himself full
of the Apostolic devotion, and the energetic charity of a
Missionary.
Off for Alaska 31
we reached San Francisco, to my surprise,
overcoats were quite comfortable; and yet
one sees palm-trees and vegetation of all
kinds proper to a warm climate. It seems
that although the sun is strong, the breeze
from the water keeps it from ever being very
hot, and besides there is a great deal of
cloudy weather. The forenoons are gener-
ally warm and the afternoons cool during
the whole year.
As I told you before, we left San Francisco
on the loth, a few minutes after eleven
o'clock. The day was fine, but there was a
strong breeze which made the sea a little
rough. About one o'clock, I tried to take
some dinner, but did not keep it long, and I
did not make another attempt to eat until
the evening of the second day. It was only
on Saturday, the 14th, that I felt perfectly
well again. After the first few days the sea
was quite calm, and we enjoyed the voyage
very much until the i8th, when it got very
rough and I had to fast again until evening.
When the vessel rolls very much, even some
of the old hands feel it. We are expecting
to see land this evening, and I hope to be at
Unalaska Island, our first stopping place, in
time to say Mass to-morrow — a happiness
I have not had since we left San Francisco.
With the exception of a few days that I
was sick, the time has passed very pleasantly.
32 An American Missionary
I brought with me a flute and some music,
which, with my Office and the reading of
some books, have made the days seem short.
I had not played any since I entered the So-
ciety; but, to my surprise, I find I can
manage the flute very well. Music is use-
ful on the Mission, as the Indians like to
sing, and an instrument helps greatly to give
them the air. We have only eight fellow
passengers, and all of them are going up on
business for the Fur Company, except one
man, not a Minister, going to help at the
Episcopalian Mission, not far from one of
ours, and two young ladies sent out by the
Moravian Church, which has several Mis-
sions some distance south of the Yukon.
The letter was continued, after landing, as
follows :
Unalaska Island,* June 24th, 1890.
We sighted land Sunday evening (22nd)
but did not get into port until yesterday
(Monday) morning, about six o'clock.
As soon as the boat was made fast, I said
Mass in my stateroom for the first time since
we left the continent. There is here a nice
Httle settlement, with about 200 residents,
whites and natives. All the former are em-
* See map at the end of this book.
#
Off for Alaska 33
ployed by the Alaska Commercial Company,
or by the United States Government, and the
natives work for both.
The whites here have no doubt that the
natives are of Japanese descent. There are
many points of resemblance. Like the
Japanese, these natives are very intelligent
and extremely handy in making all kinds of
carving and woven work. They say that a
Japanese, who came to these islands not long
ago, could understand the natives and be un-
derstood by them.
Both the Brother and myself are very well.
Last evening I visited the Custom-house
Officer, whose wife is a Catholic. I have
promised to take tea with them this evening.
They pride themselves here on their '' Rus-
sian tea " : even the natives, who are poor,
have fine urns for making tea in Russian
fashion. I have not tried it yet, but I expect
to do so this evening. I feel exceedingly
grateful to God for the fine voyage we have
had thus far. St. Michael is about eight
hundred miles from here; but we shall have
to go two or three hundred miles out of our
way to land one of the passengers. We
shall very likely leave here to-morrow, and
reach St. Michael before the Fourth of July.
I must say ''Good-by!'' for the present.
May God bless you and all your good Sisters
in Religion.
34 An American Missionary
I remember you all every day in my
prayers and at Mass, when I can say it.
Again '' Good-by! '' May the Divine Heart
of Jesus ever grant you Its most abundant
consolation!
Writing on the same day to his Superior,
he says : '' These Islands, as far as I have
seen, are clumps of high mountains covered
with grass and moss; no trees are visible. It
is generally cloudy and it rains nearly every
day. It is not cold now and, even in winter,
the temperature, they say, is never below
zero. There is here a Russian church which
the natives attend. They keep the Czar's
birthday as a holiday and know nothing
about the United States. Fine coal-mines
have been discovered on the peninsula be-
tween this and the mainland, and they expect
to have a great coaling station for all Pacific
steamers. It is still daylight here at lo P.
M., and yesterday morning I was up soon
after 3 o'clock and it was already bright day.
From what those who have been to St.
Michael say, it seems the weather is quite
mild there now. August is rainy, and the
cold begins in September and October."
He found time that same day for another
letter to one of his sisters, in which he says:
" We arrived here safely yesterday, after
thirteen days on the Pacific. We had an
Off for Alaska 35
unusually pleasant trip, they say, thanks no
doubt to the prayers of my many friends.
During the first two days I was very sick,
but after that I got used to the motion and
enjoyed the voyage. The greatest part of
our journey is over; we have left the ocean
and have now to cross Bering Sea, which,
they say, is much calmer than the Pacific.
They have very little sunshine in this part
of the world; it is cloudy most of the time.
The temperature was about 50"" all the way
out, and it is about the same now. They
say it does not go below zero here in winter.
I do not think I shall find it as bad in Alaska
as is generally thought; but, whatever
comes, I am sure that, with the help of your
prayers and those of my other friends, it will
all be sweet. I am very well and happy and
anxious to get to work. I pray for you
every day. Good-by! May God bless you
all ! "
The day after these letters were written
was the feast of St. William, Father Judge's
patron Saint; and the joy of saying Mass on
that day must have been some compensation
for the privation of Mass and Communion
which he had to endure on the feast of St.
Aloysius, the 21st of June, a day so dear to
all the members of the Societv of Jesus.
The party evidently remained at Unalaska
until the evening of the 26th or the morning
36 An American Missionary
of the 27th. Then the St. Paul, weighing
anchor once more, headed her course north-
east along the Alaskan Peninsula to Bristol
Bay. As intimated above, this departure
from the direct route to St. Michael was nec-
essary in order to land a lady passenger at
the Moravian Mission on the Nushagak
River. Our voyager did not find Bering Sea
so calm as he might have expected, as we
shall see from the following letter which he
wrote after the steamer made land.
Nushagak, Alaska, July 4th, 1890.
Dear Sister:
I know you are anxious to hear from me
now that I am so far away; so I take the
occasion offered by a sailing vessel, which
we have met here and which will start soon
for San Francisco, to let you know that I
have arrived thus far without accident. This
place is only about three hundred miles from
where I wrote last; but, on account of a
storm that made it too rough to come in, we
were just seven days getting here instead of
three. We have yet at least eight hundred
miles to go before we reach St. Michael. I
thought we would be there to-day, but now
we cannot make it before the nth or 12th.
God has been so good to me at all times,
but especially during the past year, that I
Off for Alaska 37
am convinced that He has heard your
prayers for your little brother; and I am en-
couraged to hope that He will be pleased to
use so unworthy an instrument to help these
poor souls so dear to the Sacred Heart of
Jesus. Always remember that you can save
souls as well in the convent as on the Mis-
sion, for prayer is the most powerful of all
the means of salvation. May God bless you
always !
It was a novel way to spend the Fourth of
July, moored in an Alaskan harbor. The
thought of the '' Fourth '' inspires a page
that he wrote to his youngest brother. '' As
I am so fortunate as to fall in with another
vessel bound for San Francisco, I must give
you the benefit of it and spend a little while
with you on this great day, imagining I see
you sending off fireworks for the children;
for, although it is only two o'clock here, it
is eight o'clock with you. This would be a
bad place for fireworks, as it seems never to
get dark at this season. One can read at
ten o'clock at night, and I cannot say how
much later; and it seems impossible to get up
before the sun.
This place (Nushagak) is on a river of the
same name, which empties into Bering Sea
north of the Peninsula. There are four
salmon canneries on the river. A gentleman
38 An American Missionary
who came on board this morning from one
of them, said they caught thirty thousand
salmon yesterday My health is very
good. I believe the voyage is making me
fat. God grant I may use all the strength
He gives me for His glory ! ''
We have no record of the seven or eight
days spent in going from Nushagak to St.
Michael. The St. Paul had to retrace her
course and take up again the route from
Unalaska to St. Michael. It would seem to
the uninitiated, that the natural course
would have been to pass along the coast and
through Etolin Strait.* But that is rendered
impossible by the immense deposits of sand,
earth, drift-wood, and debris of all kinds
brought down and cast forth by the Yukon
and the Kuskokwim. Thus the water near
the shore is so shallow that steamers are
obliged to keep forty miles or more from
land, and to pass to the west of Nunivak
Island. They then steer northward sighting
the eastward extremity of St. Lawrence
Island, and curving northeast towards Cape
Nome and Cape Darby, descend to St.
Michael.
Whatever may have been the experiences
of this week on the water, when our Mis-
sionary reached St. Michael he was too busy
* See map.
Off for Alaska 39
to write about them. A week after his arri-
val, he wrote to his Superior:
St. Michael, July 20, 1890.
Rev. and dear Father Superior, P. C.
Brother and I arrived here last Sunday
evening, the 13th, nearly thirty-four days
from San Francisco. I sent you two letters
on the way, one from Unalaska, and one
from Nushagak, which you should have
received before this. We found Father
Tosi and Father Treca waiting for us.
The first thing they asked was : '' Where
are the Sisters?'' And I cannot tell
you how disappointed they were when I
told them no Sisters were with us;
and all the people here were equally dis-
appointed. Everybody is praising the Sis-
ters' school. Mr. Petroff, a Russian, who is
taking the census, was here a few days ago ;
he had just come down the Yukon and had
stopped at the school, where the children
gave him a specimen of what they could do
in reading, speaking, etc. I heard him say,
" I am ashamed of my church ; we have been
here for fifty years and have not done as
much as you have done in two or three."
From all I hear and see, I am sure we can get
all the children we can accommodate. The
Sisters have made a good impression on all
40 An American Missionary
classes, and the disappointment at not seeing
more come is great in proportion. I hope
you will be able to get us six for next year;
for schools seem to be more necessary here
than anywhere else. The Indians are most
anxious to learn and are very smart.
A letter written in August to a fellow
priest gives us some interesting details of
Father Judge's first work in Alaska.
St. Michael, Alaska, Aug. 17, 1890.
Dear Father Laure, P. C.
We arrived here just five weeks ago to-
day. I had no idea then that I would be here
so long. Father Tosi and Brother Cunning-
ham left three weeks ago for Koserefsky on
one of the Company's steamers, leaving me
here to look after the provisions for all three
Missions. We bought a little steamer from
the Company, and it left here on the ist of
August with Father Treca and his provis-
ions, for Cape Vancouver, which is on the
coast about four hundred miles to the south,
where he and Father Muset with a Brother
have been since last fall. They have a small
log-house, which they built themselves, and
which is divided in two, one half being used
for a church and school, the other half for a
dwelling. Both of them picked up the Ian-
Off for Alaska 41
guage very quickly and are doing great
good; they have baptized more than two
hundred already.
I am v^aiting for our steamer to return
and take me and the provisions up the river
to Koserefsky and Nulato; the former is
about four hundred miles from St. Michael,
and the latter six hundred. I expect to re-
main at Koserefsky, and I think Father Ro-
baut will go to Nulato with Father Ragaru.
The latter, I believe, has been without flour
for two months, unless he has been able to
borrow some lately from the boats going up
the river, which I doubt; so he must be look-
ing anxiously for the steamer.
The weather has been unusually windy for
this time of the year, which has made the
sea too rough for small steamers, and has
very much delayed both ours and those of
the Company. The best idea I can give you
of this place is to ask you to recall the villa
of St. Inigoes.* If, instead of the houses
there, you imagine a dozen large log-houses
one story and a half high, and the Russian
church as shown in the photograph at De
Smet; and, on the Rosecroft side, a range of
mountains, you will have a good picture of
St. Michael. All the houses belong to the
Company and are used as dwellings and of-
*In St. Mary's Co., Md., on the peninsula between the
Chesapeake Bay and the Potomac River.
42 An American Missionary
fices for their agents, and as store-houses for
their goods. The Russian priest does not
live here and seldom comes. There is a
small village of natives about a mile distant
on the other side of the island. There were
a great many Indians here when the St. Paul
came, living in tents; they come every year
to help in unloading the steamers, for which
they are paid. These Indians are very dif-
ferent from yours — finer looking, fond of
work, anxious to learn, and very good-na-
tured. I think they would make good Cath-
olics. The country is also quite different
from what I expected; there are no trees on
the coast, but it is all covered with grass and
moss, and has a pleasing appearance. It is
not the barren waste I expected to find.
Nor is it so terribly cold as we were led to
believe. From May to October, and some-
times much later, it is about the same as at
present — that is a temperature ranging
from 40° to 60° or 70*", and the coldest
weather they had here last winter was 40""
below zero, and at Koserefsky 45"". All these
temperatures and those that follow are, of
course, Farenheit. The following is taken
from an official report for the years 1879
and 1880: —
Off for Alaska 43
THERMOMETER AT ST. MICHAEL.
Mean. Min'm. Max'm.
July 53 36 68
August 50 35 62
September 45 19 58
October 26 13 42
November 17 —12 36
December 6 —32 36
January • — 19 — 45 16
February — 41 ?
March 8 —37 ?
April 19 —27 ?
May 28 — 1 ?
June — not given, but about the same as July.
So you see it is not so bad; for the most
part, nothing worse than you have already
experienced; so you need not be frightened
if you get orders next year to come to St.
Michael. All the whites and those of the na-
tives who can get them, live in ordinary log-
houses, and say they are warm enough.
Most of the natives live in tents in summer
and in baraboras* in winter. If it were not
for the frequent rain it would be very fine
here in summer; but, as at every place on this
coast, it rains nearly every day. Up the
river however, they say it is much better;
even here, the Agent has a garden of rad-
ishes, turnips, spinach, lettuce, etc., and
Father Tosi cultivates cabbage and potatoes.
I have tried to give you, as best I can, my
impressions of the place after five weeks'
♦Alaskan huts — See page 58.
44 An American Missionary
observation, and I hope they will enable you
to form a more correct idea of it.
I forgot to state that there are a good
many wild flowers here, and also three kinds
of wild berries — the salmon berry, the blue
berry and the red currant; they all grow on
creeping vines and are very plentiful.
Many of the useful things which you gave
me have done good service already, and your
flute which I got at Spokane, is my best
friend. It helped very much to make the
time pass pleasantly on the steamer, and now
I find it a good companion. I have been
kept quite busy arranging and packing the
supplies for the different missions, but I have
finished that, and I am now trying to make a
beginning with the Indian language. There
is a half-breed boy here, who is helping me,
so that the time I am detained here will not
be wholly lost. Father Muset did not leave
until the 14th of November; that is, as soon
as the bay was frozen over. It would be
good for those who come to have a stand,
and a waterproof cover for their chapel, rub-
ber boots, coat, and cap, as there is so much
rain here in the summer. We have a room
in the Company's house this year, which was
intended for the Sisters; if they had come,
we would have had to camp out in a tent. I
have told you all I can think of that might
Off for Alaska 45
interest you. I need hardly add that I am
well and happy.
Best wishes and kind regards to all.
Your brother in Christ,
Wm. H. Judge.
The foregoing letter is supplemented by
one written five days later to one of his
sisters : —
St. Michael, Alaska,
Aug. 22nd, 1890.
Dear Sister: —
This will be a Httle surprise for you. You
see, by the heading, that I am still at St.
Michael. It is nearly six weeks since I ar-
rived, and I did not expect to be here as many
days. The U. S. Revenue Cutter, the Bear,
Captain Healy, is here on her way to San
Francisco from the Arctic, where she has
been on her annual cruise, and it is by her
that I send this — it is the last chance this
year.
The Captain, who is a brother of Bishop
Healy, and of our Father Healy, has his wife
with him. They have invited me to take din-
ner with them on the steamer this evening.
I am more than pleased with what I have
seen both of the country and the natives.
The natives are very good-natured, quick,
and anxious to learn. Many of them are
46 An American Missionary
fine-looking and very intelligent. Pray for
our good Indians that they may have the
grace to embrace the true faith, which has
brought us so much happiness ; that so they
may share our joy. Good-by! May God
bless you and all your community !
CHAPTER V.
ON THE YUKON.
"I most gladly will spend and be spent myself for your
souls." — 11. Cor., xii, IS.
THE Missionary is now in the field; and
the work demands all his energy, atten-
tion, and devotion. He will have little time
to write letters, and less facility for sending
them to the East.
And here it is well to recall the state of
communication with Alaska in the nineties,
before the discovery of gold in the Klondike.
The territory was little known and little
spoken of. There was no mail to Alaska, and
letters were not accepted for delivery there.
Correspondence had to be directed in care
of some one in San Francisco, to be for-
warded by the steamer that left, once a year,
for St. Michael. The return mail followed a
similar course. A letter from the Yukon
Missions took about two months to reach
Baltimore; and, when handed to the eager re-
cipient, it was redolent of bacon, tar, or other
ship's stores, owing to its long voyage across
Bering Sea and the Pacific. The Alaskan
47
48 An American Missionary
Missionary was as effectually cut off from
the outside world, as if he were in China or
the interior of Africa.
On these annual letters, which Father
Judge wrote to his brethren in the Society
or to members of his family, and a few others
sent when an opportunity offered, we must
depend to follow him in his work from 1890
to 1897.
The reader need not look for elegance of
diction in these letters, which were not in-
tended for publication, and were often
written under difficulties. The unstudied
narrative of the Missionary's work has
pleased those who have heard or read it,
more than fine phrases or rhetorical descrip-
tions would have done.
The work of the first year in Alaska is
summed up in the following letter: —
St. Michael, Alaska,
Dear Brother: June 30th, 1891.
I know you and all the family will be
anxious to hear how I have spent my first
year in this unknown land, so I will try to
give you as faithful an account as I can, and
you will have to pass it to all our brothers
and sisters, as it would be impossible for me
to write at length to all.
I thought to begin my letters during the
year, but I have been so very busy that it
On the Yukon 49
was simply impossible. I made the days
as long as possible — often from five A. M.
to twelve P. M., and yet they were not long
enough.
I reached the Mission on the i6th of Sep-
tember, and found there Father Tosi, our
Superior, and Father Robaut, who left for
Nulato, two hundred miles up the Yukon,
the next day; also two Brothers, and three
Sisters of St. Ann, and fifty children. The
Mission is located on the right (west) bank
of the Yukon, about four hundred miles from
the coast, on a level piece of land about a
quarter of a mile wide, with high mountains
to the west and north. Both the mountain
and the plain are covered with thick woods
of spruce, birch, and cottonwood. We have
cleared about ten acres. For the Sisters'
house and school we have a log-house seven-
ty-five feet long by twenty feet wide, and
one and a half stories high; and for ourselves
another, forty-six by twenty-four feet, the
same height; and a church thirty by twenty
feet.
Until last March the present church had
to serve for everything. It was divided into
six rooms, two for the Fathers, one for
kitchen, one for chapel, one for dining-room,
&c., and one for the Indians when they came
to trade, &c. The chapel had large doors,
which we opened for Mass, Benediction, &c.,
50 An American Missionary
making the chapel, dining-room, and Indian
room all into one; and sometimes we had as
many as eighty in it. The upper story
served as a dormitory for thirteen larger
boys and the two Brothers, and as a store-
room for provisions. Although it was very
small for the purpose, it was quite comfort-
able, and required little fire to keep it warm.
I am quite sure I suffered less from the
cold last winter than you did. We did not
keep fire at night generally, and had only one
stove, which was in the common room, into
which all the others opened, and yet it froze
in my room only two nights when it was 50°
below zero. Since we got into the new house
we have been very comfortable, and the boys,
twenty-two now, have a fine high dormitory.
We have turned the old house into a church
and it looks right well for these parts. I
papered the sanctuary and whitewashed the
body of the church after filling up the cracks
between the logs with mortar, and painted
the six windows in imitation of frosted glass,
making the centre panes red, so as to form
a red cross, and the others white. I painted
the altar white; and, with some fine altar-
cloths, ten silver candlesticks, and some
flowers, all of which, though not new, are
very good and were given to me by our
Fathers in California, it makes a very re-
spectable-looking altar. The sanctuary is
On the Yukon 51
covered with matting made by the Indians,
which is nearly as good as what you buy.
Thanks to the generosity of the Altar So-
ciety in Washington we are well supplied
with vestments.
Now for the events of the year. The day
after I arrived at the Mission, while carrying
a heavy box, about three hundred pounds, I
slipped, and it fell on my leg, and although
it did not break it, it bruised it very badly
and made it so stiff that I could not make
a decent genuflection for three months; but,
thank God, I was able to keep about and did
not miss Mass once. At Christmas we used
as a church the new house, which was then
under roof, but had no partitions in it yet.
In the corner, at the Gospel side of the altar,
I fixed a very pretty crib, with a fine set of
figures painted on tin by a Brother in Spo-
kane Falls. The Rector gave them to me
when I was coming away. They are in six
groups, and I like them better than those
that I paid $130 for, when in Frederick. The
church was dressed with evergreens, and
looked quite Christmas-like. Father Tosi
sang midnight Mass, and in the morning at
nine o'clock we baptized thirty-four children
of the school. Afterwards I sang High
Mass, which was over at one o'clock. At
two o'clock we had Benediction. There
were about sixty Indians from the village
52 An American Missionary
at Mass and Benediction. At three o'clock
I dressed up in fur from head to foot and
played Santa Claus for the children. They
did not know who it was, and enjoyed it very
much. Thus ended my first Christmas in
Alaska, and I do not think I ever spent a
happier one.
On the loth of February I started with a
sleigh and seven dogs to visit the Indians on
the Shagaluk river, which runs into the
Yukon a little below us. I had a boy for my
interpreter and a man to help with the
sleigh. The first day we went only fifteen
miles to an empty barabora, as the Indian
houses are called. They are built of logs,
starting three or four feet below the ground,
in this shape.
They are from twelve to twenty feet or
more square, and eight to twelve feet high,
and covered with clay, so that they look like
hillocks, rather than houses. The door is a
hole two or three feet high covered with
a piece of skin or matting, and generally
it is reached through an under-ground pas-
On the Yukon 53
sage of the same size, through which you
have to crawl to get in; this is to protect
the inmates better from the cold. In the
centre of the roof there is a window two or
three feet square covered with a piece of
bladder or thin skin, which admits all the
light needed. On three sides there is a
bench or shelf about six feet wide and
eighteen inches above the floor, which they
cover with mats; and there they sit in the
day time, and sleep at night with their heads
to the wall and their feet towards the middle
of the room. In the centre of the floor just
under the window, they make the fire, once
or twice a day, and when it is out they close
the window, and the room remains comfort-
able all day even in the coldest weather.
In every village there is what is called the
Casino."^ It is a building just like a bara-
bora only it is very much larger, generally
thirty to forty feet square and fifteen to
twenty-five feet high, and instead of the
broad berths for sleeping, there is a narrow
shelf about two feet wide and three feet high
running all around. The Casino is for the
men ; they work there during the day making
sleighs or snow-shoes, dressing skins, &c.
*This Alaskan inn or club-house is called by the natives
" Kazhga," and by the Russians " Kazhim " or barracks.
The Russian word has been variously rendered " Kachime,"
"Cazine," or " Casine " and "Casino." This last expresses
the idea better than any other word in our vocabulary.
54 An American Missionary
Their wives or children bring their meals to
them, which they eat, sitting tailor-fashion
on the shelf, while their wives sit on the floor
ready to wait on them. The young men
also sleep on the shelf, and all travellers are
lodged in the Casino. It is also used for
their dances and all pubHc meetings.
To return to my trip. As soon as we had
put our things into the barabora we made a
fire, cooked our supper and went to bed.
Next morning I said Mass, we took break-
fast and started. Soon we met three Indian
sleighs going our way and we gave them
part of our load; at noon we stopped and
cooked some fish for dinner, and about three
o'clock we reached a log house belonging to
an Indian, where we stopped for the night.
Next morning I said Mass, made a little in-
struction, took breakfast and started for the
first village, which we reached at four
o'clock, and took up our abode in the Casino.
As soon as I went in, I found all the In-
dians sitting around as quiet as mice, and I
saw that they had up what they call ^' spirit-
sticks." These are four sticks about six feet
high, painted different colors, with feathers
stuck into them here and there. They place
these sticks one at each end of the Casino,
and one at each side; and while they are
there, no one can speak loud or do any work.
The Indians firmly beheve that these sticks
On the Yukon 55
have the power to kill them or do them good.
When I went to hang up my coat on one of
the sticks, they said '' No/' because the
spirits would hurt them if I did. When I
had taken my supper I spoke to them, show-
ing how foolish it was to believe that those
sticks could hurt them, and I then asked
them to let me break them up. The young
people were willing and I was just going to
do it when some old women cried out:
" Our souls are in those sticks, if you break
them we will all die,'' and then some old men
jumped up and grabbed the sticks and I
could not prevail on them to let me break
them up. But they promised never to bring
them into the Casino again.
I staid there two days teaching the chil-
dren. I baptized three infants and one old
woman, the mother of one of our school
girls, who had never been baptized, heard
the confession of her husband, whom I bap-
tized conditionally, and then married them.
They did not belong to the village, but lived
alone about ten miles below it. They do
not believe in the sticks and seemed to be
good people anxious to do what is right. I
was just in time, for the old man died sud-
denly, a few days afterwards. They wanted
me to stay longer but I told them I could do
nothing for them as long as they refused to
break up the sticks.
56 An American Missionary
Then I went ten miles further to a small
village of very good people, who did not be-
lieve in the sticks and were anxious to learn
the prayers. They have no doctors or
medicine men. These doctors are our great-
est obstacle, they have most of the people
completely in their power. They pretend
to have great power to kill or cure by their
incantations and also to be able to cause the
fish and game to come or not as they please,
and the poor people believe it all firmly.
Sometimes they put all the people in the
Casino with strict orders not to leave it, and
then they (the doctors) go out, telling the
people they are going to the moon, and after
several hours they go to the Casino and tell
all they have seen and learned there. There
is nothing, no matter how foolish, the doc-
tors may say, that can shake the faith of the
people in them. Many of them are ventrilo-
quists, hence they make the spirit-sticks and
also the dead appear to speak. Father
Ragaru saw one of them making a dead child
speak and showed him up, much to his dis-
pleasure.
To return to my trip. At this village I
staid four days, taught the people a short
offering of themselves and of their actions
to God, the Our Father, Hail Mary, Glory
be to the Father, &c., and the formula for
baptizing in danger of death; all of which
On the Yukon
57
they learned well, as also a little hymn, and
two chapters of catechism. There I bap-
tized one infant and twenty-eight others, and
married seven couples. I also taught them
how to know the days of the week, so that
they could keep Sunday and Friday. I did
it in this way, and they liked it. I took a
piece of board, and cut it, and marked it
thus:
A
^ • » •
o o o o o o o
The triangle I told them was for God's
day or the first day, then two holes for the
second day, three for the third day, four for
the fourth, five for the fifth, and a fish for
Friday, and seven holes for Saturday. I put
a pin, which they were to move downward,
one hole every day, until they got to the bot-
tom, and then jump to the top again. I met
one of them several weeks after I left, and
he had a small one of the indicators nicely
made to carry in his pocket, and had the pin
in the right hole.
58 An American Missionary
When I left that village I went to another
six miles up the river, the Shagaluk, and as
soon as I got there they told me there v^as
an old man very sick at a village two miles
further, on the other side of the river; so I
left my sleigh and everything else, and went
to see the sick man. I found when I got there
that he was an old man, very sick, who had
never been baptized. So, after giving him
some medicine to try to relieve his pain, I
prepared both him and his wife for baptism,
and promised to return in the morning. Next
day as soon as I had said Mass and taken a
little breakfast, I went over and found him
very low. There was no time to lose. I bap-
tized him and his wife, and gave him Ex-
treme Unction. In less than an hour he died.
It looked as though he had been waiting for
me to come to baptize him.
I went back to the other village, and
stayed there two days, teaching the children
the prayers and catechism, but I could not
do anything with the old people, because, as
at the first village, they would not give up
the sticks. I baptized one infant, two young
men and one young woman belonging to the
second village, and married a couple. The
young woman has died since. Then I went
over to the village where the old man died.
I knew that it would be useless to try to get
them to give him Christian burial, so I did
On the Yukon 59
not try. When I got there, they had the
body sitting in the Casino, with a dish of fish
and a can of water beside it, and all the wo-
men and children were sitting around on the
floor looking at it. But it is at night that they
have the principal part of the funeral rites.
They keep the body four days, and every
night they sing and dance from about six
P. M. to six A. M. in this way. The women
sit on the floor around the corpse, and behind
them the children stand shaking themselves
from side to side and up and down, by bend-
ing their knees a little, and behind them
again the young men stand beating sticks
together and singing a song composed for
the occasion, referring to the life of the dead
person, to a tune that sounds like ya-ya, ya-
ya. They beat the sticks and sing as hard as
they can until they are all in a sweat, and
then others take their place, and they keep
that up the whole night. The old men sit on
the shelf and look on. The only source of
light is a dim taper burning in a dish of oil
before the corpse. While they were thus
performing their antics, I fixed up my bed in
one corner of the shelf and turned in, and
although I often woke up, I managed to get
enough sleep. I shall not soon forget that
night. It was the most savage-looking thing
I have seen. I am sure a New York paper
would be glad to have a photograph of it.
60 An American Missionary
Next day I started for another village
about forty miles off, because I could not
teach the children after they had been up all
night dancing, but I promised to call on my
way back. When I reached the village in the
evening I went to the Casino as usual. They
were glad to see me and I stayed, I think,
four days, teaching the children all day; but
as they, like the others, would not give up
their superstitions, I could not do much for
them. Then I returned again to where the
man had died, but I could not do anything
but teach the children, as the doctors kept
the people strong in their superstition. From
there I crossed over to a large village on the
Yukon called Anvik, about forty-five miles
from the other, where there is an Episcopa-
lian minister. I did not go to his house, but
put up in the Casino — his house is across
the river from the village. It was late when
we reached there, so after supper we went to
bed. The Casino was so crowded that I
could not get a place on the shelf, so I fixed
my bed on the floor, — just as good. For
my bed I have fallen heir to Archbishop
Seghers^ travelling bed, which is a large
bearskin.* He was lying on it when he was
*This bearskin is now in the museum of Georgetown
University. Father Judge used it for five years, taking it
with him up the Yukon to Forty Mile Post. In 1896 Father
Barnum sent the interesting relic to Georgetown. On Arch-
bishop Seghers, see p. 105.
On the Yukon 61
killed, and it has his name painted in large
letters on the back. I use it all the time, both
at home and when travelling.
I said Mass in the morning and had a good
congregation. While we were taking our
breakfast, the minister came in to hire some
men to work for him, and was not a little
surprised to see me there. I told the Indians
I did not stop with the minister, because I
did not want them to think that I approved
his religious teaching, but that I would go
to see him so that he would not be angry
with them. It pleased them that I stopped
in the Casino instead of at the minister's.
Very few go to his church on Sunday. I
went over and took dinner with the rev.
gentleman and told him plainly why I did
not stop at his house. My frankness pleased
him and he was as kind as could be. I stayed
in Anvik one day and did not teach, as I did
not wish to make open war with the min-
ister. I expect to go there frequently this
year and don't think the minister will be able
to keep me from making the people Catho-
lics. From Anvik I came towards home,
about fifteen miles, to a small village, Bane-
jilla, where I did some good; because like the
people of the other small village, the second
I visited, the inhabitants of Banejilla have no
Shaman nor sticks, and besides some natives
from the second village, by telling how I
62 An American Missionary
taught, made them anxious to see me. I
stayed three days teaching the prayers and
catechism, baptized three infants and sixteen
grown persons, and married several. I re-
turned home March 6th. The whole dis-
tance was just about two hundred miles. I
took with me some bread, corn-meal and
flour mixed for making cakes, and some tea
and sugar. I got all the dry fish and rabbits
we wanted from the Indians for a little tea or
tobacco. My bread began to get short before
I was half way round, so we had to eat dry
fish instead. I cooked the rabbits and eat
the dry fish with them just as bread and did
not find it bad. The last few days, we had
no sugar and very little salt — the salt I miss
more than anything else.
Such was my first trip with dogs and
sleigh and I was surprised to see how much
the dogs can do. I started with seven and
bought four on the way, making eleven,
which is a good team. It was lo'' below
zero the day I started, and 20° below the day
I returned, but it had been higher many days
during the trip. The Fathers had told me
when I came, that the best temperature for
travelling was from 10° to 15° below^ zero.
At the time, I could hardly believe it, but I
found it true. The sun is so strong that as
soon as the temperature gets above that, the
dogs get too warm and cannot run as well.
On the Yukon 63
I expect to go over the same trip in a boat as
soon as I get back — if I go back, and not
to some other mission.
Six days after I returned, Father Tosi
started to see the Fathers on the coast at
Cape Vancouver about five hundred miles
from St. Michael. He arrived there on
Good Friday, stayed about a v^eek, and re-
turned on the 2ist of April (if I remember
rightly), making a trip of more than one
thousand miles. He had to travel fast, as
the v^eather v^as getting v^arm, and there
v^as danger of the ice on the river breaking.
In returning he travelled all night and rested
in the day, because the snow was too soft
after the sun got high.
At Easter I was the only Father at Kos-
erefsky, so we could not have very grand
services; but we had what we could. The
Sepulchre looked well. Easter was a beauti-
ful, warm day. We had High Mass sung
by the children, who sing well, and the day
was a happy one.
During the whole of April the weather at
the Mission was fine, warm days with bright
sunshine, and cool nights. The average
temperature for the past twelve months,
taken at five o'clock in the morning, was as
follows : July 52°, August 45°, September 40°,
October 27°, November 4 3-4'', December
-II 2-3°, January -8°, March 13 1-4°, April
64 An American Missionary
19°, May 30°, June 50'', all Fahrenheit. The
coldest spell was from the 6th to the 26th of
December. On the loth it was 50° below
and on the nth 52° below. For one week
it did not get above —30'' at any time, but we
did not suffer. The days were bright, and
the nights beautiful and clear, and our
houses are so warm that we do not mind the
cold. The Fathers on the coast suffered
much more than we did, although the cold-
est they had was 23"" below zero; but their
house is not as good as ours, and they have
much more wind. I am sure I did not suffer
as much from the cold as you did last winter.
What I feared most was cold feet, but to my
great surprise I was agreeably disappointed.
The Indian boots which we wear in winter
are splendid. They are made of sealskin,
with the fur outwards. In the bottom of
each boot we put a handful of straw or hay.
We put on a couple of pairs of woolen stock-
ings or a piece of blanket wrapped around
the foot, and then the boots with the straw,
and unless one gets wet the cold will not
trouble him. Instead of a coat, when trav-
elling, we wear what they call a Parky,
which is made of fur, deerskin or other
skins, in the shape of a bag with sleeves, and
a hood that has an edging of long fur which
blows across the face and keeps the wind
from cutting. The Parky is very warm, and
ALASKAN MISSIONARY IN WINTER COSTUME
On the Yukon 65
as it has no opening Hke a coat the wind can-
not get in. It generally reaches to the
knees.
The ice on the Yukon broke on the 13th
of May, and on the 22nd the Company's
steamer came up. Every spring as soon as
the river opens, the Alaska Company sends
a steamer up the river, principally to take
provisions to the miners far north, and bring
down the traders to get their supplies for the
coming year. It goes up more than 2,000
miles. When the steamer comes down, we
have a little exhibition and entertainment
by the school children, as we have then more
whites present than at any other time. This
year the steamer came on the 27th of June.
About 4 o'clock in the morning its whistle
woke us up. It was a beautiful morning.
Now the sun is as high here at four as it is
with you at nine o'clock.
As soon as I was dressed, I went down to
the boat and invited all the white men and
some Indians to come to see the school, and
they all came except two ministers. The
children, fifty-two in all, were already up and
dressed. The boys had nice suits from the
States, and the girls very pretty dresses
made by the Sisters, and all looked well.
When the people came, the children were
already in the large school-room ready to
begin. The program was as follows: — A
66 An American Missionary
welcome song by all the children; a little
play by the girls, which was very well given;
then the boys came in as a company of
soldiers with wooden guns and an American
flag. After drilling for a few minutes they
sang three songs, and six of them spoke
pieces. Then they marched out, and the girls
came in, and performed their calisthenic
exercises ; after which they all sang the Star
Spangled Banner. Then each class gave a
specimen of reading, writing, spelling, and
arithmetic. Both the entertainment and the
lessons pleased and surprised all present.
All the children speak English. We do not
allow a word of Indian. After all was over,
one of the Government Survey party took a
photograph of all the children, the Sisters,
and your humble servant in a group, another
of the whole Mission, and one of each build-
ing. Then all our visitors returned to the
steamer, one of the Sisters and myself ac-
companying them.
Father Tosi and a Brother went down in
a sailboat a week ago to get our steamer
which was left about two hundred miles be-
low. A Father came here from Nulato a
short time ago to remain until Father Tosi
or I return. We reached St. Michael on
June 30th, and found here the steamer from
San Francisco, on which were Father
Barnum, a Brother, and three Sisters of St.
On the Yukon 67
Ann. This was good news for us. Father
Barnum dehghted the Captain of the
steamer, and both the latter and the Com-
pany's Agent here congratulated Father
Superior on receiving so fine a man. He
will do great good I am sure. When I left
the Mission our garden was looking fine.
We have cabbage, turnips, potatoes, onions,
radishes, lettuce, &c., &c. Last year we had
a good deal of cabbage and turnips, but as
we had only a few potatoes as seed, we got
only about two bushels of potatoes, all of
which we kept for seed, and have planted
them this year and hope to have a good crop.
Now I think I have given you all the news
I can from this quiet little world of ours.
When Father Barnum tells me all the news
of the year — wars and rumors of war, &c.,
&c., I feel thankful that I have been called
to this sweet solitude. We hear nothing of
all the events that agitate the world until
they are all over and have become mere facts
of history.
July 4th.
We are living in tents. Fathers Tosi and
Barnum and I have one, and Father Treca
and two Brothers have another. Father
Barnum brought a nine-foot American flag,
which we put up in front of our tent last
night with a string of Chinese lanterns. The
68 An American Missionary
Government Survey party v^ho came down
last year too late for the steamer and had to
winter here, have a house and a tent near
ours and have two flags up. The Company
also have one on their store-house, and the
four small steamers in the bay and the St.
Paul from San Francisco are all flying their
colors, so you see we have some Fourth of
July here too; besides, the Survey Party
fired a salute of ten guns in the morning,
and the Company fired ten at noon.
Father Barnum will go to the coast with
Fathers Treca and Muset to learn the lan-
guage, and in the spring will probably be
sent to start another mission somewhere in
those parts. Fathers Ragaru and Robaut
will remain at Nulato and I shall stay at
Koserefsky with Father Tosi. All the Sis-
ters will stay at Koserefsky at least till
spring or later, until we have another school
ready.
We have not been able, as yet, to make any
great showing in the number of adult con-
verts. They have more on the coast than
we have on the river. I think we have bap-
tized about six hundred, mostly children, or
adults in danger of death. I think six chil-
dren and two adults whom I baptized last
winter died soon after. I cannot say yet
how many children we shall have at the
school next year. We are not losing any
On the Yukon 69
this year and will get a good many more;
so I am sure we shall have a good school the
coming year. We can have as many chil-
dren as we can take. We are trying to have
some from all parts, so as to make the school
and its advantages known throughout the
country. It has already done us immense
good.
All the whites are loud in their praise of
what we are doing. None of the Protestants
have boarding-schools, and none of their
children speak English as ours do. It is
very slow work to teach them in day-schools.
I had from twenty to thirty children from
our village every day for three or four
months last winter. I taught them their
catechism and prayers, and some spelling
and reading, for about three hours every day.
I gave most of the time to the catechism;
yet they were doing well in English. But
when they stop for some time — as they
must when they are not boarders, because,
as soon as spring opens they leave their
homes and move about from place to place,
wherever the parents can find the best fish-
ing, — they forget much of what they have
learned. We have not the great numbers
that are to be found in other missions, but
we have plenty to do, and these poor souls
are as dear to our Lord as those of more
favored lands. Besides, the Gospel must be
70 An American Missionary
preached here before the Book of Life is
closed. God is blessing our Mission very
much, and we have reason to hope that He
will before long bring the great majority of
these poor people to the knowledge of the
true faith. Good-by for another year ! May
God bless you always during life, but es-
pecially at the hour of death !
Your Brother,
William H. Judge, S. J.
A month later he wrote a few lines about
his experience on the river.
Steamer St. Michael, Aug. 6, 1891.
Dear Brother:
I was very sorry I had to be so brief in my
last, but I could not help it; and now I am
writing under difficulties, on board our little
steamer, going from St. Michael to our Mis-
sion.
This is our second and last trip this year.
I am Captain and Second Engineer; and a
Brother, who came up this year, is First En-
gineer and First Mate. We run the boat
turn about, six hours each. I ought to be
asleep now, but I give up sleep to have a
little chat with you; although it will be a
long time before my words reach you, if
indeed you get them at all; for I am writing
On the Yukon 71
in the hope that the U. S. Revenue Cutter
will not reach St. Michael before this gets
there.
We came down from the Mission, a dis-
tance of about four hundred miles, in three
days; but it takes nearly six and sometimes
more to go up.
I am in excellent health and spirits, and
could hardly be happier in this world. We
have beautiful weather here now. Last
month there was no night, now there are
only two or three hours of it; we shall have
a little frost in September, but no great cold
before October. May God bless you all!
Good-by !
Your loving Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
The next year's work is reported in a let-
ter from the Mission station on the Shagaluk
River:
Shagaluk River, Alaska, Aug. 3, 1892.
Dear Brother:
I write this in a tent on the bank of the
Shagaluk River, about 75 miles northeast
from Holy Cross Mission. I came here ten
days ago to build a log-house, which is to
serve as a church and a residence. It will
be 30 by 24 inside and two stories high.
72 An American Missionary
I believe Father Superior intends to put a
priest here as soon as he can spare one, and
until that time it will be a station visited as
often as possible from Holy Cross Mission.
This is the village wrhere I baptized many on
my first trip, of v^hich I gave you an account
in my letter of last year. That letter closed
on the 4th of July, 1891. On the 12th of the
same month I left St. Michael in our steamer.
We had three boats in tow, two for Holy
Cross Mission, and a third belonging to the
Coast Mission, on board of which were
Fathers Treca and Barnum, and Brother
Cunnineham, with their provisions for the
year. They also had a large skin boat, and
four or five hundred feet of lumber with
which to fix up their house and church. We
towed the Fathers about 100 miles, and then
left them to sail the rest of their way, while
we continued our course to Holy Cross,
where we arrived on July 21st. On the 24th
of July we started back to St. Michael to get
the balance of our goods; but, just as we got
under way, we heard shouting and the report
of guns, and upon looking up the river we
saw several boats rounding the bend above
the Mission.
At first we thought they were miners, but
presently they ran up the American flag, and
then we concluded that it must be the U. S.
Survey party, so we went back and waited
On the Yukon 73
for them. When they came near we found
in fact that they were Mr. McGrath and his
men who had been up north for two years
determining the boundary hne between
Alaska and British America, and that they
wished us to take them in tow to St.
Michael.
After giving them time to see the school,
we started again and reached St. Michael in
three days — very good time."^ Having
loaded our boats and arranged all our affairs
with the Alaska Commercial Company we
started, on the evening of the 3rd of August,
to return to the Mission. It was raining and
the sea was very quiet, so we were hopeful
of a good trip. We have about 75 miles of
sea before we reach the mouth of the Yukon.
Once in the river we are all right, but our
boat is not built for rough seas ; hence we are
always anxious to have good weather for
that first part of our voyage.
On this occasion we had been only a few
hours out from St. Michael when it began to
blow, and in a short time the wind increased
to a storm. We were out of sight of land,
so we had nothing else to do but to commend
* This tow to St. Michael was of great service to the Survey
party. By aiding them to get out that summer, it possibly
saved them a year's delay. Father Judge took the kindest
interest in the party. It is surprising that Uncle Sam's men
allowed the missionaries to render this service, as. the angels
do, " all for love and nothing for reward."
74 An American Missionary
ourselves to God and head our little steamer
against the wind and waves. The sea soon
became very rough, and the waves washed
over us every moment, shaking our little
craft until we thought she would go down;
but, thanks to the Sacred Heart, whose pict-
ure we kept hanging in the engine room, and
to St. Michael, whose name the vessel bears,
we were not allowed to perish. During the
night the tow-line caught in the wood-work
over the wheel, and broke it so badly that we
had to stop the engine whilst Brother P. and
myself went out in the rain and darkness to
fix it with nails and ropes. At one moment
our feet were in the water, and the next we
were high in the air, so wildly was the boat
tossing on the waves. We were glad when
morning came, but it did not bring us calm,
and until about nine o'clock we had little
hope of saving ourselves and our goods.
God, however, watched over us, hearing our
poor prayers and those of our friends far
away, and by noon we reached the mouth
of the river, where we found shelter, safe and
sound, and with hearts full of gratitude to
God. Our goods were only slightly
damaged. The rest of our trip was very
good and we arrived at the Mission on the
9th of August. On the 17th we went to
Nulato, whence we returned on the 24th,
On the Yukon 75
and then we put up the steamer for the win-
ter.
Father Tosi was away all September visit-
ing the Indians on the Kuskokwim River.
As soon as he returned, I took the skin boat,
which we call a '' Bidarka ''"^ and with it
went to visit again the natives on the Shaga-
luk River. Our '' Bidarka '' is about twen-
ty-five feet long and two feet wide. It is
completely closed in, with the exception of
three circular openings in the top or deck,
where the occupants sit. Each rower has a
paddle about four feet long, with which he
paddles on one side or the other at pleasure.
A boat of this kind carries a quantity of
goods and goes very fast, thus affording the
most pleasant means of travelling in Alaska.
As I was saying, I started out to visit the
Indians on the Shagaluk River. I visited
all the villages to see if there were any chil-
dren to be baptized or any one sick, but I
could not stay long to teach, as it was late
in the season and there was danger of the
river freezing at any time. At the last vil-
lage on the Shagaluk we embarked on a little
river, which, the natives said, would lead us
to the Yukon. It is a very pretty stream,
and it bore us to a chain of three lakes, each
about one mile long, the last of which ended
*The Russian name for the Eskimo canoe, better known
as "Kayak" or " Kiyak."
76 An American Missionary
only a few feet from the bank of the Yukon.
At that season the river is very low, so we
had to let our boat and baggage down a
steep bank of more than twenty feet. The
river at that point is more than two miles
wide, but at low water it is divided in the
middle by a sand-bar of more than a mile in
width. It was Sunday evening when we
reached the Yukon. We thought it would
be clear sailing homeward; so, as it was cold
and windy, we camped for the night. After
fixing our tent in as sheltered a place as we
could find, we made a fire and cooked our
supper.
During the night it got very cold and blew
so hard that our tent could hardly stand it.
In the morning I was afraid to say Mass on
account of the high wind, so we took our
breakfast and started. We had not gone far
before we found that the near side of the
river was closed with ice too thick to break.
We thereupon left our boat and walked
across the sand-bar for about a mile to see if
the other side was also frozen. Much to our
relief we found it free from ice, except along
the bank. The current is much stronger on
that side, which fact accounts for its being
open. But now came the hardest part of our
trip; for we had to carry our boat and bag-
gage for a mile against a cold wind that
raised the sand in such clouds, that we could
On the Yukon 77
not see fifty feet ahead of us, and we had to
direct our march only by the sun on one side,
and a high mountain on the other. I had
but one Indian man and a boy with me; so
I, with the man, had to carry the boat. I
did not think that I could do it in such a
storm, but we can do much more than we
think when we have to. With a good many
stops we managed to get the boat over to
the clear water. Once in the open river we
made good time, for now we were going
down stream. We went as far as we could
that day, and stopped in an empty '' bara-
bora '' for the night. The next day we
reached home before noon, having made the
last 45 miles in six and a half hours.
On the 24th of November I started to
make the same trip again, but this time with
a sleigh and seven good dogs instead of the
boat. I visited all the villages, stopping
three, four, or more days in each, baptizing
the infants, and teaching the children their
prayers and catechism all day. I am accus-
tomed to say Mass every day, and, as our
days are short here in mid-winter, it was
generally ten or eleven o'clock before we
took breakfast. On my way home I stopped
again at Anvik. Here they were having an
Indian feast and the village was crowded
with strangers. It was with difficulty that
78 An American Missionary
I got a corner in the Casino, but some per-
sons kindly made room for me.
I shall try to give you an idea of these
Alaskan feasts. They are very common
among the Indians and are their principal
amusement during the winter. When the
people of a village wish to make a feast, they,
after making their preparations, send mes-
sengers to one or more neighboring villages
to invite the inhabitants to come on a fixed
day. All are invited, but every one that
comes is expected to bring some present
with him. All the visitors are fed by the
people of the village. I arrived in Anvik
just in time to see the whole performance.
About eight o'clock in the evening, when the
Casino was crowded to its utmost, they
cleared a place in the centre where they had
two dishes of oil with tapers burning in them
to light the room. The men of the village
then sat around the open space and began
to sing a song made for the occasion, in
which they told their visitors what they
would like to have. When the song was
ended the visitors went out and, after a little
while, returned with their presents, which
they threw in a pile in the clear space in the
centre of the Casino. The presents con-
sisted of skins of all kinds, great quantities
of drilHng, calico, tobacco, etc. When all
the presents were in, the Anvikians sang
On the Yukon 79
again; then two or three men took the pres-
ents and divided them among the people of
the village. When all had been given out,
the visitors sang as the others had done, and
then the men of Anvik went out and brought
in the gifts which they had prepared for their
guests. After another song these presents
were distributed among the visitors. Then
came the '' refreshments,'' which consisted
of an immense dish of what we call ice-
cream. The Alaskans make it of deer fat,
hard snow, and berries, which they beat to-
gether until the mixture looks just like
ice-cream. When well made it not only re-
sembles ice-cream, but tastes like it too.
When all was ready a stout Indian took the
dish, having, as if to add solemnity to the
occasion, taken off his shirt, and began to
deal out the ice-cream with his hand to all
the visitors as far as it went. After that the
entertainers sang again, and the visitors
brought in more presents, which were di-
vided up as before. Then all fell to eating
dry fish and oil before going to sleep. It
was midnight before all was over.
Such are the feasts these Indians are con-
stantly making in one village or another,
nearly all the winter. They are harmless,
but we cannot do anything while they are
going on or for some weeks before they be-
gin; because, while they are practising the
80 An American Missionary
songs and dances, the children are so excited
that they can think of nothing else. I forgot
to mention above that these people have
masquerades of their own for some nights
before the distribution of the presents. For
these dances, they carve, out of wood, faces
of men, some very large, say two feet or
more, and some only a few inches in length,
and also heads of animals of all kinds. When
they dance, they put on these masks and
imitate the animals that they represent. In
their dances, as a general thing, only the men
take part. They do not join hands nor even
touch one another, but each dancer simply
goes through certain motions or gesticula-
tions, in accordance with the character that
his mask represents.
I remained only one day at Anvik, on ac-
count of the feast, and then returned home,
stopping one day at a little village on the
way.
During this trip we had some very cold
weather, and it happened that I was travel-
ling in the worst of it. For two or three
days the thermometer fell to 50** below zero.
On those days I had ice on my eyebrows and
eyelashes and often a cake of ice on my
cheek. All my clothing too, was covered
with a white frost wherever the natural
warmth of the body penetrated and came in
contact with the glacial atmosphere. The
On the Yukon 81
weather, however, was clear and the sun
bright, and I ran all the time behind the
sleigh, guiding it. This kept me very warm
and even made my head perspire, but as soon
as the perspiration came from under my cap
it was turned to ice on my face.
We did not suffer much. When we
stopped for dinner, we started a big fire,
made tea, and warmed the bread that we had
with us. We had to eat fast, and right over
the fire. Once I went to pick up a tin plate
near the fire with my bare hand, but I
dropped it as quickly as if it had been red-
hot, and wherever it touched my fingers,
they were white as though burned. The
same happened on another occasion when I
touched a spoon. When it is so cold, you
cannot touch any metal without first holding
it to the fire to take out the frost. When
one touches metal at a temperature of 50"*
below zero, the sensation is just the same as
that produced by burning, but the injury is
more easily cured if the metal has not been
held long enough to take the skin off. When
we are frost-bitten, we have only to rub the
part affected with snow until the whiteness
disappears, and then no harm results from it.
I have not had my face frozen yet. The boy
that travels with me has been nipped two or
three times, but I always saw the discolora-
tion of the skin in time and ^' rubbed it out.''
82 An American Missionary
I returned from this trip on the i8th of
December, just in time to prepare for Christ-
mas. As one of the Fathers from the coast
was with us this year we were able to have
a Solemn Midnight Mass. Father Tosi was
celebrant, Father Muset deacon, and I sub-
deacon. We had the crib as last year, only
a little larger, and the church was dressed in
evergreen. I said my first Mass at 8 o'clock,
the second immediately after, and sang High
Mass at 9 o'clock. In the afternoon we had
Solemn Benediction. We got one of the
large boys to play Santa Claus this year, but
he did not succeed in disguising himself as
I did last year. We had a happy Christmas,
and I enjoyed the religious part of the cele-
bration especially.
I expected to make another trip in Jan-
uary or February, but a bad cold laid me up
for three weeks and the serious illness of
Father Superior prevented me from doing so.
On the loth of March our oldest boy and
best interpreter died. He was baptized
by Archbishop Seghers, and he was the first
boy that Father Superior took, about five
years ago. He was always sickly and suf-
fered nearly all the time, but he bore the
pains with patience. He was about seven-
teen years old, of far more than ordinary
intelligence, quick-tempered, but with a good
heart. His faith was strong and he was
On the Yukon 83
never happier than when he had an oppor-
tunity to speak against the medicine men.
He was taken seriously sick in January, and
about the ist of March he began to sink
rapidly. At first he did not want to die,
but when the end came he was perfectly re-
signed. Having received Extreme Unction
and Holy Viaticum, he died just as I had
finished giving the last absolution. His
death was a loss for the Mission, but it was
a great consolation to us to see him make
so good an end.
We have had in all 80 children this year —
38 boys and 42 girls. They are so good that
they have given us great consolation. Six-
teen or seventeen of them have made their
First Communion and are very edifying.
They would go to Communion every week
if we allowed them to do so. These children
are our greatest hope for the future. As they
are taken from all parts, we hope that when
they return to their homes they will sow the
good seed everywhere.
When the steamer came down, the chil-
dren gave a little entertainment for the visi-
tors, singing, speaking, and acting, all in
English, much to the astonishment of those
among the whites that had not visited our
school before; indeed, some of them sur-
prised myself, they did so well. Three more
Sisters came to our Mission this year, whilst
84 An American Missionary
one of those that were already here had to
return on account of sickness. As our sec-
ond school is not yet ready, all our Sisters,
eight in number, will remain at Holy Cross
for the present. Hence we may hope to
have a fine school there during the coming
year.
We made a large garden this year and
planted two bushels of potatoes, a quantity
of cabbage, turnips, beets, etc., but the sea-
son has been so very cool and wet that I fear
we shall not have half the crop we hoped for.
The ice on the Yukon broke, this year, on
May 15th, and as soon as the river was clear
I came up here to get logs for the proposed
new house. The Indians had told Father
Superior that he could get plenty of logs
when the ice went out, and he thought they
meant drift logs. When I came, I asked
them to show me where the logs were. After
taking me a long way up the river, they
pointed to a pine forest saying: ^^ There are
the logs.'' So we had to go to work and cut
our timber. We reached the woods on a
Wednesday evening and began work at once.
After cutting sixty-eight good logs, we made
them into rafts on the river and brought
them down to this place, so that by Saturday
night we had our lumber all piled on the bank
here ready for use. On Sunday morning I
said Mass in the village and then we returned
to Koserefsky.
On the Yukon 85
Now I have come up again to do what I
can on the new house, until our steamer gets
back from the coast and comes to take me to
Nulato. I expect to be here for three or four
weeks. We have two tents, one of which we
use for kitchen, dining-room, etc., and the
other I keep for myself, so as to have a clean
place in which to say Mass. I have two boys
from our school to cook and help generally,
and I take ten or twelve Indians every day
from the village to work. I have to board
them, so we have quite a little hotel. It has
been raining nearly every day since I got
here, which keeps the work back very much.
The weather is warm and the mosquitoes are
so thick that I have to smoke my tent every
morning to drive them out, else I could not
say Mass. To-day it is raining so hard that
the men cannot work, and I take the oppor-
tunity to send you this little account of the
year. The man that is to be the bearer of it
is waiting, so I must hurry and send it with-
out even looking over it. In the union of the
Sacred Hearts of Jesus and Mary,
Your Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
TKe work of this year was reported also to
his Superior in the form of diary, a part of
which we give, even at the risk of some slight
repetition.
86 An American Missionary
Holy Cross Mission, Alaska,
June 2nd, 1892,
Very Rev. and Dear Father Superior:
Another year has passed; how quickly
they go when we are busy ! The days,
weeks, and months are all too short, and the
year is passed before we know it.
On the 24th of November I started with a
sleigh and seven dogs to visit the Indians I
have been attending on the Shagaluk. I will
give you my diary for the trip so that you
may see what we do on these excursions. I
started with a boy and an Indian about 10
o'clock, halted at 12 o'clock to make tea, and
reached the first stopping-place about 5 P. M.
Good road, distance about 35 miles. Fixed
our supper of fried fish, tea, and hot steam
bread made in my patent oven which I used
for the first time on this trip and found to be
a great success. It consists of a sheet-iron
camp-kettle about 10 inches high, in which I
have put some pieces of iron so as to support
two round tin pans, one over the other.
When I want to bake, I fill the pot with wa-
ter up to the first iron, mix my soda bread,
put it in the pans, cover the kettle and hang
it over the fire. The steam cooks the bread
very nicely, and you have no trouble with it,
as it cannot burn; and, as the fire around the
kettle keeps it hot, there is no distillation;
On the Yukon 87
and, therefore, the bread comes out dry and
nice. One hour will cook a larg:e loaf. It is
a great improvement on frying cakes which
is always difficult on a camp-fire, and more
especially so when the weather is very cold.
After supper I gave a little instruction and
we went to bed. At this place there are only
two baraboras and about eight or ten In-
dians.
Next morning, the 25th, I said Mass and
gave an instruction. We took breakfast and
started at 10.45 ^^^ the next stopping-place,
about ten miles distant. We had clear ice all
the way and went as fast as the dogs could
run, and arrived there at 12.15. Took din-
ner — tea and crackers — taught catechism
to three children and four grown persons,
took a walk to say my Office, cooked supper
— rabbits, tea, and hot bread — taught cate-
chism, said Litanies, etc., and went to bed.
On the 26th, which was Thanksgiving
Day, I said Mass in a log-house belonging to
an Indian at this place, took breakfast,
taught catechism, and started at 1 1.30 for the
first village, which we reached at 12.30. Here
I made a big pot of tea in the Casino, and let
all present drink of it. We took some tea
and crackers for our dinner, taught cate-
chism, took a walk, had supper, and went to
bed. Thus I spent Thanksgiving Day.
On the 27th, I said Mass in the Casino,
88 An American Missionary
gave some instruction and catechism, took
breakfast at lo o'clock, visited the sick,
taught catechism, took a Httle lunch, taught
catechism, walked, took supper, gave an in-
struction, and went to bed.
On the 28th I said Mass, gave an instruc-
tion, took breakfast at 10 o'clock, and started
at II for the next village, which we reached
at 2.30 — road good most of the way. As
soon as we arrived, we went to the Casino,
took some tea and crackers, made a pot of
tea for the men, talked awhile, went for a
walk, took supper and went to bed.
The 29th was Sunday. Said Mass at 8.30;
instruction after Mass. Breakfast at 10
o'clock, taught catechism, visited the sick,
walked, taught catechism, gave some instruc-
tion, took supper, and walked till bedtime.
November 30th, Mass 8.30, instruction,
breakfast 10.30, catechism, walk, catechism,
supper, and bed. In winter the days are so
short that, when travelling, I generally take
only two meals, as after Mass we cannot get
breakfast before 10 and sometimes 11 o'clock.
Dec. I. Mass at 8.30, instruction, cate-
chism, breakfast 10.30, catechism, recess,
catechism, walked while they made fire in
the Casino, catechism, supper 6.30, prayers
for the Indians, and bed.
Dec. 2. Mass at 8, prayers, instructions,
catechism, breakfast 10.15, catechism, recess,
On the Yukon 89
catechism till 2.30, walk, catechism at 5,
singing of hymns, supper, walk, prayers, and
bed.
Dec. 3. Mass at 8, catechism, breakfast
10.30, baptized a little girl three years old,
catechism, walk, catechism, supper, and bed.
Dec. 4. Mass at 7.30, instruction, cate-
chism, breakfast 10.30, baptized Jane, four
months old, and started for the next village
12.30. This is the village where I baptized
most of the people last year. I take a boy
and a girl with me to the school. At 2.45
we reached the next village — road good,
but weather very cold, at least 30 below zero.
By the time we had put our things in order,
got warm, and taken supper, it was bedtime.
Dec. 5. Mass in the Casino at 8, instruc-
tion, talk, breakfast at 11, baptized two chil-
dren, walked while they made fire, catechism,
supper, etc., and bed.
Dec. 6. Sunday, Mass at 8.45, instruction,
catechism, breakfast 11. 10, baptized five chil-
dren, at 2 o'clock went about a mile from the
village and baptized one little girl, and re-
turned for supper.
Dec. 7. Mass at 8, instruction, catechism,
breakfast 10; went about three miles to a ba-
rabora where there were a woman and two
children who wished to be baptized. I found
them to be good, simple people, living alone
and seldom going to the village; so I in-
90 An America:!! Missionary
structed them as well as I could and bap-
tized them.
Dec. 8. Feast of the Immaculate Concep-
tion, Mass 8.30, catechism, breakfast 10.30,
catechism, baptized one girl, catechism,
walk, supper, bed.
Dec. 9. No Mass, breakfast 6.30, started
at 8 for the next village about forty miles off,
stopped at 11.30 to make tea, and reached the
village at 5.30. Very bad road, or rather no
road; we had to break the snow. Very cold,
50 below zero, but no wind. Supper 7.30,
bed.
Dec. 10. Mass at 8.30, catechism, break-
fast at 10.30, catechism at 12, went to an-
other village about 5 miles away and bap-
tized one Httle girl, returned at 5.45, supper,
bed.
Dec. II. Mass at 8, catechism, breakfast,
catechism, tried to get a dying man to receive
the last Sacraments, but could not, visited
some sick people and gave them medicine;
catechism, walk, supper, etc.
Dec. 12. No mass, breakfast at 6.30;
started at 8 to return to the villagfe we were
last at; stopped at 12 to make tea, very cold,
about 50 below zero, but not uncomfortable
as there was no wind. At four we reached
the village. We came by a different road
from the one by which we went; it was
longer, but much better; supper, prayers, etc.
On the Yukon 91
Dec. 13. Mass at 8.30, catechism, break-
fast at 10.45, catechism, walk, supper,
prayers, etc.
Dec. 14. No Mass. In winter when we
have a long distance to go we cannot say
Mass, as the Indians who sleep in the Casino
do not get up in time. Breakfast 5.30; at
6.30 started for Anvik, distant about 50
miles. Stopped at 12 for dinner, and reached
Anvik at 4.20. I found the people making a
feast, which means that a village invites the
Indians of one or more villages to come for
one or more days and eat as much as they
can; but all who come must bring some
present for their entertainers, skins, cloth,
tobacco, tea, etc. The visitors also receive
some gifts from their hosts. I gave eight red
handkerchiefs and received two mink skins
in return. After distributing the last gifts,
they began to eat, and it was past midnight
before I could get to sleep.
Dec. 15. No Mass, the Casino was too
crowded; no room to fix my altar. After
breakfast I went across the river to the tra-
der's house to get some flour. He received
me very kindly and offered me a place to
stay. As the village was so crowded I ac-
cepted his offer and went back to get my
sleigh and baggage. I spoke with the In-
dians in the Casino for some time about the
necessity of prayer, etc., and then went over
92 An American Missionary
to the trader's house. He is a brother of the
Russian priest, but could not have treated
me better if he had been my own brother; he
invited me to dinner with him, fed my dogs,
and paid me every attention.
I had intended to stay some days in the
village, but when they have these feasts, you
can do nothing; they are all too busy, even
the children are too excited to learn, and be-
sides, as they are up all night they must sleep
during the day.
Dec. i6. I did not say Mass, as I was in
the house of a Russian. Took breakfast with
the trader, and started towards home at 9.
Stopped at 12 for tea, and at 3 stopped at a
small village about twenty miles from home.
Dec. 17. Mass at 8, catechism, breakfast
10.30, catechism, walk, catechism, instruc-
tion, supper, prayers, etc.
Dec. 18. No Mass, started about 5 for
home, stopped at 9 for tea, started again at
10, and reached home at i — very cold, but
clear, fine weather. Several times during
this trip it was so cold that, when cooking
dinner outside, if I touched a plate, cup,
spoon, etc., it felt like picking up red-hot iron,
and made my fingers white immediately. On
the two or three days when it was 50 degrees
below zero, I had ice on my eyebrows, eye-
lashes, and even on my cheeks, every place
where any heat from the body came in con-
On the Yukon 93
tact with the cold; but still I did not suffer.
All I wore on the coldest days was one flan-
nel shirt, an old knitted jacket, and a squir-
rel-skin parky or Indian over-dress, very
light but warm.
Father Tosi returned from the coast on
Holy Thursday, April 14; and on Easter
Monday started for the Shagaluk to see the
Indians I have been visiting. It was the first
time he had been there. He had to go quick-
ly as the snow was melting, and he returned
April 28. He was much pleased with the
Indians and promised to build a house in one
of the most central villages this summer.
On the 15th of May the ice broke on the
Yukon. We were anxious for the safety of
our steamer, fearing that the ice might crush
it, but St. Joseph and St. Michael pushed the
ice all to the far side of the river and left the
boat in clear water. No one ever before saw
the ice go out as it did this year; this looked
like an answer to our prayers.
The Company's steamer went up the river
on the 25th of May and will be down again
about the 12th of this month ; that will be the
last chance to send our letters out, at least
by the St. Paul.
June 7. Father Muset started yesterday
in a three-hatch bidarka or skin boat to visit
the Indians on the Kuskokwim river. He ex-
pects to be away five or six weeks. So now
94 An American Missionary
I am alone. Brother John is hard at work on
the garden. He has planted about ten bush-
els of good potatoes which we raised last
year, and a good lot of cabbage, turnips,
beets, etc. Last year we had cabbage and
turnips for the whole winter, and this year
we hope to have a good crop of potatoes
which will not only be very agreeable and
healthy, but will save flour and thus lessen
expenses. The cabbage and turnips we had
this year improved our fare very much. One
in the States who has never been without
vegetables for any length of time, cannot
imagine what a luxury they are. When the
traders and others who have not had any for
years visit us, they enjoy them immensely.
From far and near, the natives, the traders,
and even the Russian priest, send to us for
medicine when they are very sick, and fre-
quently they come to be cured.
Brother and I are well. Two of the Sisters
are very sick, but they manage to keep up
and do a great deal of work.
Kind regards to all. Pray for us that God
may continue to bless us in the future as He
has in the past.
Your humble servant in Christ,
Wm. H. Judge.
The next year w^s soent by Father Jud^-e
at Nulato, that settlement on the Yukon,
ARCHBISHOP CHARLES J. SEGHERS
^The Apostle of Alaska
On the Yukon 95
which the Apostle of Alaska, the noble Arch-
bishop Seghers was striving to reach, when
he was so strangely murdered by his own at-
tendant.
When about forty miles from Nulato, the
Archbishop stopped for the night in a poor
cabin. He had with him two natives, and
his attendant, Fuller, whom the kind-hearted
prelate used to call '' brother." To say the
least. Fuller was weak-minded and eccentric.
For some time he had been acting strange-
ly and rudely. During the night in question,
he was restless and got up twice. The
Archbishop told him to lie down and try to
sleep.
Towards morning. Fuller went out and
got his gun from the sled. To rid himself
of one of the Indians, he sent him to get
some ice; the other seemed to be still asleep.
Fuller threw some handfuls of birch bark on
the fire to make a blaze, then called out,
" Bishop, get up ! '' and levelled his gun at
his victim.
The Archbishop had risen to a sitting posi-
tion on the bearskin which served him as a
couch, and when he saw Fuller's gun aimed
at him, he seemed to take in the situation at
a glance. He crossed his arms upon his
breast, and bowed his head as the assassin
fired. The bullet grazed the heart of the
devoted missionary, and his spirit passed
96 An American Missionary
from that cold and dreary scene of his labors
to the light, life, and joy promised to such
faithful servants of God.
Some idea of the year's work is given in
the following letters.
St. Peter Claver's Mission,
Nulato, Alaska, November 22nd, 1892.
Dear Sister:
There is a gentleman here who will start
in a few days to go to the States overland;
which means to go eighteen hundred miles
in a dog-sleigh, before he can get any of the
modern conveniences of travel. It will take
him about three months to make the trip;
so you will probably receive this next March
or thereabouts, if all goes well with him.
As you see from the heading, I am not at
Holy Cross Mission this year, but about two
hundred miles north of it. The cHmate is
about the same; the coldest we have had, so
far, this winter is 34 below zero. The In-
dians are more civilized than those lower
down the river, at least in their manner of
living. They all live in log-houses, and
some keep them very clean. They have
mixed much more than the others with white
men, especially the miners, which accounts
in part for the difference; but all the north-
On the Yukon 97
ern Indians are cleaner and have better
houses than those near the coast.
It is slow work to convert the grown peo-
ple. A Father has been here four years, and
he is only now beginning to get a few to
their duties. He has about sixteen com-
municants, mostly women, including two
young women who came from the school
last summer. It is wonderful what a change
a few years at the school make in these chil-
dren. When they go there, they know
nothing higher than this world; but after
three or four years, they are more anxious to
save their souls than to do anything else;
they go frequently to Confession and Holy
Communion of their own accord, come to
Mass every day when they can, say their
beads, and give great edification. But what
shows most of all how solid is their faith, is
the manner in which they die. So far we
have had three deaths among those who
have been at the school, and all have been
most edifying and consoling.
The last death was that of a boy about
fourteen years old. When he came to the
school he was a little wild Indian; but the
excellent training of the Sisters soon began
to bear fruit; and, although he was not as
bright as some others, he made up for it by
hard work; and, about a year before he died,
98 An American Missionary
he was well enough instructed to make his
First Communion.
First Communion makes a great change
in all these children, but especially was it^
effect noticed in this boy. From that day,
no one could make him angry, and he be-
came so obliging and kind to everyone that
all loved him exceedingly. It was a real pleas-
ure to give him any work to do, he did it so
willingly and cheerfully. He was always
smiling as though he could not hide the joy
and peace of his heart. But God wished to
try him for our edification and his greater
merit, and so, sent him a cross heavy for one
of his age and disposition, for he was natur-
ally very lively. Soon after Christmas last,
he sprained one of his ankles several times;
but, with treatment, it seemed to get all
right again. Soon after, one evening, with-
out any warning, when he was as lively and
happy as ever, he had a severe hemorrhage,
which weakened him very much; and while
he was in bed on account of that, the ankle
he had sprained began to swell and became
very painful, especially when he moved it.
So he had to remain in bed the greater part
of the time. All spring and summer he re-
mained in that state, often suffering great
pain but never complaining or even asking
for anyone to stay with him. In July, as we
were afraid he would not live long, we sent
On the Yukon 99
him here so that his parents might see him.
He came up on the steamer and Hved with
the Fathers. Here, as at school, he gained
all hearts, and surprised and edified the
Fathers by his piety and wonderful patience.
Every day he would read the life of the
Saint of the day, in a pictorial '' Lives of
the Saints " that we have, and he was not in
the least afraid of death. He died early in
the morning, after a violent hemorrhage, and
his last words were, '' Jesus, Mary, Joseph,"
which he said of his own accord. What
wonders the grace of God is able to work
when we do not put obstacles in the way or
refuse to follow its inspirations !
When I left Holy Cross, there were one
hundred children in the school. Three more
Sisters came this year; but one of those who
came four years ago, had to go back on ac-
count of her health. So there are eight Sis-
ters now, all at Holy Cross. They expected
to open a second school this fall, but we
could not get the house ready. It will be on
the coast at the mouth of the Yukon, about
four hundred miles from the present school.
In that part of the country there is not a
tree for two hundred miles, and not even a
bush for some distance, nothing but thick
moss. The place we have selected for the
school is a high bank on one of the streams
that form the delta of the Yukon. It is the
.ore.
100 An American Missionary
only high ground in the neighborhood; so,
from it, one can see on all sides as far as the
eye can reach, and not a tree to break the
view, nothing but water, moss-covered fields,
and banks. But it is a cheerful place and
very good for that part of the country.
Do not think that I have no need of your
prayers, for there are many dangers on a
Mission like this. I am very happy and have
not the least doubt that I am where God
wishes me to be ; but, when there is so much
to do, there is danger of neglecting oneself.
So we must always pray for each other. . . .
Every day, at Mass, I ask our Lord to keep
you ever pure in his sight, and to bring you
to a holy and happy death, which is the
greatest blessing I can ask for you, as we
say in the prayer to St. Francis Xavier —
^' that we may diligently seek and perfectly
find that one thing necessary, which is to die
and rest in peace.'' May God grant us this
grace.
Your loving Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
Nulato, Alaska, Nov. 26, 1892.
Dear Brother:
It is just 12 P. M. as I begin this, but there
is a chance to give you a pleasant surprise
and I cannot resist.
On the Yukon 101
Representatives of the Northwestern
Trading and Transportation Company came
here last summer and built a large river
steamer to run on the Yukon. It is a fine
boat built on the plan of the Mississippi
boats. The object of the Company is to
open up the country, trade in furs, supply
the miners, mine, or go into anything that
they see money in.
Their steamer is called the P. B. Weare,
after the head of the company, the great
corn-king of Chicago. He w^as up here but
has returned. They intended to go up about
a thousand miles above Nulato, where the
greatest number of the miners are; but, they
were too late in finishing the steamer, and
when they got here about the 6th of October,
the ice was too thick to allow them to go
farther. So they went about six miles be-
low us, and put up for the winter.
They have about three hundred tons of
freight, a splendid cargo of assorted mer-
chandise. The Agent and his wife, the
First Mate, and an Irish servant-girl, are
Catholics; and the Captain and the hands
are all nice people ; so, we have some pleasant
white neighbors for the winter. The dis-
tance is nothing, as it takes only about three
quarters of an hour to make it with the dogs.
Soon after I wrote last, I was called back
to Holy Cross, and had to leave the house I
102 An American Missionary
was building on the Shagaluk, only seven
feet high. I remained at the Mission, while
Father Superior and three other Fathers
went to plant a large cross on the spot where
Archbishop Seghers was killed. They made
the ceremony as solemn as possible, all the
Fathers saying Mass there.
On the first of October, I started to come
to Nulato on our steamer, but winter had
already begun — about two weeks earlier
than usual — and the ice was forming on
the river. However, we got on all right
until within thirty miles of this place,
when we ran on a bar and could not
get ofif. So we had to leave the steamer
and walk home. We did not know how
far we were from Nulato, but an Indian
told us we could reach it in a day. We
camped one night on the bank of the
river, where we had piled all the goods from
the steamer; and, in the morning after Mass
and breakfast, each one took what he could
carry and we started to tramp it. The walk-
ing was bad, the river bank being often stony
and rough, and our bundles began after some
time to be heavy; but we kept on, and to our
joy, about one o'clock, we met the Father
from Nulato with a party of men coming
from the new steamer to our rescue.
They had heard of our trouble, and started
as soon as possible to help us. We all took
On the Yukon 103
something to eat and after a Httle rest set
out again reheved af our baggage, which
was taken by the Indians whom the Father
had brought with him. On account of the
bad footing we could not make good time,
and it was not until about eight o'clock in
the evening that we reached the steamer.
We were all very tired but we met a hearty
welcome, got a good supper, and, what we
wanted most, a good night's rest. The
Transportation Company's people have
boarded up their steamer all around, and
they are living in it very comfortably. The
next day, after breakfast, we finished our
tramp and got home.
We are only two Fathers and two
Brothers here; so, it is much more quiet than
at Holy Cross. I must stop; it is too late,
and I am tired. Kind regards to all. May
God bless you always.
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
In May, 1893, he writes of his work at
Nulato : ^^ My life has been a quiet one, most
of my time being taken up with teaching
the children their prayers and catechism in
their own language, and a little English, and
in trying to learn their language myself.
The first task I like very much, for I am
fond of children and have no trouble to make
friends with them; but the second is very
104 An American Missionary
much like hard work, and my genius does
not run that way. So you must pray for
me, that the Holy Ghost may supply what
nature has refused, if it be for the glory of
God.
We have had a cold winter this year, the
average temperature having been a good
deal lower than that of the two preceding
years; but, thank God! I have had good
health, have not even had a cold.
The ice on the Yukon broke on the 19th
of this month, and from that event we date
the beginning of the summer season. Up
to about the middle of April the cold holds
its own; and one would think, to look at the
immense ice more than thirty inches thick
on the river, and the whole country buried
in snow, that it would take all summer to
melt it; but, as soon as the severe cold ceases,
the sun is so strong that the snow melts, and
the river swells so that it lifts the ice up
fifteen feet or more, forcing it to let go its
hold on the banks; and, of course, as soon as
it is not held, the current carries it off and
out to sea."
In July he wrote to another person: "I
was much pleased to hear that you had seen
Father Tosi. He has been through more
than anyone else up here; and, as you see,
he is not dead yet. As I told someone, this
On the Yukon 105
IS a bad place to come to if one wants to get
to heaven quick ; hot countries are much bet-
ter for that than cold ones.
I am sorry you had to send the box by ex-
press, on account of the expense; slow
freight, I suppose, would be much cheaper.
You have only hinted at what you have sent,
and therefore I don't know what I may find;
but, if you should ever be inspired to send
another box, I would be happy to find in one
corner a few pounds of common candy for
the little ones at Christmas. You see, I
have not changed in my love for the little
ones.''
The summer of 1894 found Father Judge
still at Nulato. He recounts the incidents
of the year in a long letter to one of his
brothers : —
St. Peter Claver's Mission,
Nulato, Alaska, June 30, 1894.
Dear Brother: P. C.
I think my last letter to you was written
in July, 1893, while I was on a visit to Holy
Cross Mission. In the latter part of Au-
gust I returned to Nulato. A few days after
my arrival, Father Ragaru left, having been
called by Father Superior, leaving me alone
with one Brother, to attend to these two vil-
106 An American Missionary
lages, one of which is within five minutes
walk of the house, and the other about two
miles down the river.
Here we have a small church and have be-
gun to build a better one; but at the lower
village we had none until last November,
when an Indian, who had there a good log-
house, sold it to me very cheap, because one
of his children died there about two years
ago, and the Medicine Man, or Shaman, as
they call him, told our Indian that his other
children would die if he remained in that
house. With a little work, I fixed it up,
made a temporary altar, and began on the
first of December to use it for a church.
My plan is to say Mass three times a week
there, and three times here, and in each place
on other days to say the beads and teach
catechism in the afternoon; so that every
day each village has either Mass or the
beads and catechism. On Sundays all
come here, and we have High Mass, instruc-
tion, and Benediction of the Blessed Sac-
rament.
The first Friday of the month, for which
we prepare by a Novena, we celebrate here
by a general Communion of all who have
made their First Communion, in all about
twenty-five, half of whom are grown chil-
dren who have been to school at Holy Cross.
We are slow to admit the Indian to Holy
On the Yukon 107
Communion, but this year I have secured
the baptism of all the children in both vil-
lages, and of nearly all the young people;
and, with few exceptions, these come to con-
fession at least once a month.
The Medicine Man could not have con-
ferred a greater favor upon me than he did
by causing that man to leave his house.
Thus we see how God makes use even of the
wicked, to accomplish His designs, and turns
all to the good of His elect.
On the 8th of December, the feast of the
Immaculate Conception, immediately after
Mass, I had to start on a sick-call to a village
about thirty miles down the river. We left
here, an Indian and myself, with a sleigh and
seven good dogs about nine o'clock, stopped
at noon at an Indian house for our dinner of
tea, dried fish, and bread, and then continued
our journey, arriving at our destination
about four o'clock. It was a cold day, forty
degrees below zero, but the wind was at our
back and we did not suffer. I found an old
man, the father of one of the children at our
school, very sick with something like pneu-
monia. I gave him some medicine, in-
structed him, heard his confession, and
anointed him. He was well disposed and
died in a few days after I left.
On the 15th of December Father Ragaru
returned from Holy Cross Mission. He
108 An American Missionary
spent a month on the road, having visited
all the villages on the v^ay, stopping a few
days in each. By the route he came, the
whole distance was about three hundred
miles.
Christmas day was a happy one for us
this year. I said two Masses at the lower
village, where I had nine communions, and
Father Ragaru had eighteen communions
here. At nine o'clock I sang High Mass
here, after which I had the Christmas tree
for the children, and some fun also for the
grown people. Our tree looked well, al-
though I had no candy. I made some small
cakes, and with them and a large tin of sweet
crackers, which some good soul sent us last
summer, I filled a number of small bags,
some of cloth, some of colored paper, which,
together with the toys you sent, set the tree
off in good style and made the little ones
jump with joy when they saw it. The tin
dogs, fishes, etc., which moved by them-
selves, amused not only the children, but also
the older folks. We raffled the toys, as
there were not enough for all, and gave each
child a bag of cakes. To the grown people
we gave a piece of sweet bread and a cup of
coffee, and all went away pleased.
On the 8th of January Father Ragaru left
to make a missionary trip up the river; and,
a few days after, he sent me word that there
On the Yukon 109
were two white men in great destitution and
with their feet badly frozen, at the house of
an Indian thirty miles above Nulato. At
once, I sent a Brother with two sleighs,
warm clothes, and a good provision of bread,
tea, and fish, to bring them down. He found
them with their feet so badly frozen that
they could not use them at all, with very
Httle clothing and barely enough food to
keep soul and body together. The Brother
made the trip in three days, and although it
was fifty degrees below zero when they ar-
rived here, they were so well wrapped up
that they did not feel the cold. As soon as
they came, we gave them a good supper of
stewed rabbits, slap-jacks, and tea, and they
enjoyed it as much as you would a first-class
feast. Until Father Ragaru met them, they
had not tasted bread for seven months; at
one time they had been two weeks without
anything but a kind of wild rhubarb, which
we have here, and again they had lived eight
days on one small salmon.
They are young men about twenty-one
years of age; one a Scotchman, a sailor by
profession, and the other the son of German
parents, from Minnesota, and a Catholic.
The Scotchman is a Presbyterian, or at least
his parents are, but he left home too young
to know much about religion.
When I examined their feet, I found them
110 An American Missionary
in a terrible condition; one had the heel and
toes of both feet badly frozen, and by that
time they were black. The other escaped
better, only his two heels and the sole of one
foot being hurt. For about two months
they were not able to use their feet, and it
was nearly four months before they could
wear shoes. They left on the first steamer
to go to the mining country to seek their
fortune, just five months from the time they
came.
These men were very clever. When they
were able to move about the room, I put up
a carpenter's bench, and although they were
not professionals, they made many useful
things for me.
We had to suffer a little for our charity,
as last summer we received provisions for
only two or three, and we had to make them
do for five or six, so that everything was
short. What we felt most was that we
could afford to take only a limited amount
of bread. We cooked twenty-five pounds of
flour every week, making twenty-one loaves,
one for each meal, which we cut into five
pieces, one for each. Our principal food was
rabbits — which, thank God, were very plen-
tiful this year — sometimes stewed, some-
times fried or baked, for variety; for, as the
two sailors used to remark, we were afraid
we would turn into rabbits.
On the Yukon 111
After Pentecost, when the snow became
too soft to hunt the rabbits, we often wished
we had more of them; but we had some sal-
mon that we salted last year, which took
their place, until the river broke. May the
27th. Although we could not get fish in the
main river then, because the water was too
high, we got some in a side stream and a lake
near by; but they did not continue to run,
and when the steamer came in sight, on the
14th of June, our last meal was on the table.
We had two fish-nets out, and the men and
the Brother had been out all the morning
fishing with hooks, but had caught nothing.
Rev. Father Superior, who had heard of
our need, came up on the steamer bringing
us all we wanted. Thus God in His good-
ness, that we might recognize His provi-
dence more clearly, waited until the last
moment to come to our assistance.
For my own part, I was not anxious, be-
cause I felt certain that, as we had deprived
ourselves for His sake, He would not fail to
help us in the hour of need.
This spring, I was also struck by a touch-
ing instance of His goodness in sweetening
even the little crosses He sometimes sends
us for our good.
On Sunday, March nth, I had a sick-call
twelve miles up the river. The next day, the
i2th, the feast of the canonization of St.
112 An American Missionary
Ignatius and St. Francis Xavier, I said Mass
there, but with difficulty, because the canon-
ical finger of my right hand was very sore.
After Mass, I gave the Viaticum and Ex-
treme Unction to a sick woman and then
returned home, when I recognized that I had
a bone-felon and therefore would not be able
to say Mass for some time; but that same
day, Father Ragaru, who had been away for
a month, returned. It was nineteen days
before I could again say Mass ; but, although
the Father intended to leave before that, the
weather compelled him to remain, so that we
had Mass every day and I did not miss Holy
Communion once on account of the felon.
The past winter was the longest and most
severe they have had here for many years.
The snow-fall was by far the greatest I have
seen, and the spells of severe cold more fre-
quent and longer than usual. Generally we
can travel only at night in April, because the
trail is too soft during the day, but this year
it was so cold that the sun was not able to
effect anything. It was only at Pentecost,
May 13th, that the sun got the better of Jack
Frost, and began his work of destruction,
when, as though conscious he had a mighty
work to do, he went at it in good earnest,
and in two weeks this immense river had
risen about twenty feet. On Sunday, May
27th, the ice began to go out. The next day
On the Yukon 113
at about seven o'clock in the evening, while
the whole river was one mass of broken ice
forcing its way out, the large cross, which
had been erected two years ago on the spot
where Archbishop Seghers was killed, passed
down the middle of the river, borne along
by the ice but standing perfectly erect and
facing the bank. It was a fine sight to see
it moving along in the bright sunlight, amid
the roaring of that immense body of ice and
water. We tolled the bell while it was pass-
ing. The place where the Archbishop was
killed is about forty miles above this. How
far the cross went down the river we do not
know. It looked as though it were sent
ahead to give us warning of what was to
come, for as soon as it passed, the river be-
gan to rise rapidly. We had to remain up
all night to watch it, and at three o'clock in
the morning we took every thing from the
church, which is nearer to the bank than our
house. All that day the water continued to
increase, forcing all the people in the village
to take refuge on the mountain, and com-
pletely surrounded our house, so that we
could not leave it, except in the boat. By
noon on Thursday, our cellars were full up
to the floors ; so, not knowing what was com-
ing, we boarded up the lower windows to
prevent their being broken by the ice, and
moved everything up stairs; but at 2 P. M.,
114 An American Missionary
the water began to fall rapidly, as if a gorge
had broken somewhere, and in about an hour
it fell two feet, after which it subsided very
slowly, and even now it is higher than it was
at any time last year.
When the water was at its height, we
could see no land except the mountains, a
thing which had never happened before in
the memory of anyone. Immense cakes of
ice three or four feet thick remained around
the house and in the village after the water
subsided but did no damage to anything,
owing to a high mountain just here, which
threw the current of the river to the other
side and broke the force of the floating ice.
The other village, which I have charge of,
two miles below here, did not fare so well,
as the water covered it completely, and the
ice carried my church and all of the houses
far back, leaving them a heap of ruins on the
hillside. Some of the people from the vil-
lage, who had gone to the other side of the
river before the ice broke, thinking they
would be perfectly safe there on the high
bank, had a narrow escape. When they saw
the water coming on them and had no higher
ground to retreat to, they built themselves a
house, elevated on poles as high as they
could, and there they sought a last refuge.
Fortunately it was just high enough, but
with nothing to spare, for their feet were
On the Yukon 115
already in the water when it began to fall.
All the villages for at least a hundred miles
below here were washed away.
Last summer was so wet that it was al-
most impossible to dry fish, and now all
along the river the Indians are in want of
food, because the salmon, which is generally
the first to come, has not begun to run yet.
Everything this summer is two or three
weeks later than other years. The Fathers
on the coast were compelled to give, until
they were in want themselves, because the
Indians were actually starving, but I hope
they have the salmon there by this time, and
that we shall soon have it here also.
Last January the most noted Medicine
Man here was taken sick, and thought he
was dying. He sent for me, saying he
wanted to save his soul. As he had two
wives and knew very well that was wrong,
he sent one away, and declared before all the
people that he would not take her back again,
that he did not believe in the Medicine Men,
and would not play any more, nor '' make
medicine," as they say, if he got well; and,
as he seemed to be truly in earnest, I heard
his confession and anointed him. It would
have been well for him if he had died then,
but God gave him a chance to prove his sin-
cerity, and allowed him to recover. But,
with returning health, he relapsed into his
116 An American Missionary
former ways. On the night of April 3rd, he
played as Medicine Man, and next morning
died suddenly, God calling him without a
moment's warning. Many looked on his
sudden death as a punishment from God for
not keeping his promises. I had many con-
fessions the following days.
Ten large girls or, as you would call them,
young ladies, returned from the school at
Holy Cross Mission, when the steamer came
up. They are truly a great credit to the
Sisters, so great is the change a few years
at the school have made in them. They
speak English without hesitation, have made
their First Communion and been Confirmed,
and are so zealous and devout. As soon as
they came, I noticed how much more cour-
ageous and open they were in the practice of
their faith than those who came back last
year, and before ; but the cause of the differ-
ence did not occur to me until now, namely,
that they have been the first to receive Con-
firmation; for it was only when Father Tosi
was in Rome last winter that the Holy
Father gave him power to confer that Sac-
rament. Never before have I seen its effects
more evident, and I sincerely thank the Holy
Spirit for thus manifesting His power in
these first fruits of the Sacrament, for their
own sanctification, and the great edification
of all who see them.
On the Yukon 117
I feel greatly encouraged by the hope that
when all our neophytes have received that
holy Sacrament, which I hope will be some
time during the coming winter, they too will
become courageous to do and suffer for con-
science' sake. In that case, this Mission
will be firmly established, and with God's
blessing we may hope to reap more abundant
fruit from our labors in the future, for good
example is a most powerful means to draw
souls to God.
On Wednesday, the 27th of this month, we
had, for the first time, the full marriage cere-
mony. Two of the girls from the school
were married to two young men, brothers,
one of whom has been living with us here for
several years as interpreter. The day was
the finest we have had this summer, warm
and bright, and our little church never before
looked so well, as only lately we put up a
new altar, which was adorned with all the
lights and flowers we have. Although not
grand, it was neat and devotional. I think
you would have been a little surprised, had
you seen the two brides in their new calico
dresses made for the occasion with all the
skill they acquired during the four or five
years with the Sisters, and their long white
veils and wreaths of flowers. We had the
Nuptial Mass, with all of its blessings, at
which the four contracting parties received
118 An American Missionary
Holy Communion; all of which was well cal-
culated to impress the Indians with the dig-
nity of this Sacrament and make them
understand how holy and inviolable is the
union between those who receive it.
Both couples live near the church, and as
they manifest such good dispositions and are
so well instructed, we have reason to hope
they will prove an important addition to the
Mission.
All our Missions are steadily gaining
ground, but the field is so large and the la-
borers so few, and, what is more, we are very
much cramped for means. Even with the
greatest economy, on account of the distance
from civilization, our expenses are great,
while the means at our disposal are very
limited.
A school here would do much good, but
we cannot afford it; and we ought to have
stations at several points north of this, where
many souls are being lost for want of atten-
tion, but with our present means we cannot
help them.
I am sure there are many good people in
the States, who would be happy to help us,
if they knew our needs; so, whenever you
have an opportunity, you will do a good
work by making those needs known, so that
all who wish may aid us in gaining to God
this remote corner of the Union; for, al-
On the Yukon 119
though so far away from you, we are still on
United States soil, of which we are con-
stantly reminded by the flag, and by hearing
the school children singing our national airs.
In a Mission like this, everything is useful.
All kinds of groceries and provisions, and es-
pecially flour, rice, beans, and corn meal;
dry-goods of every description, as blankets,
quilts, calico, muslin, &c. ; hardware, stoves
and kitchen furniture; church goods, candles,
oil for sanctuary lamps, candlesticks, vases,
flowers, altar linen, &c. ; boots and shoes for
large and small; in a word, everything for
church, school, or house use, or for food,
clothing, bedding, &c., provided it is good,
for the freight is too much to pay for worn-
out or useless things, as old books and papers
and the like. We are poor and therefore will
not disdain the smallest offering, and as our
field of labor is so vast, the largest may be
turned to the glory of God and the salvation
of souls.
As our work is not a thing of the present
only, but to continue year after year, it
would be desirable that those who mav wish
to help us by their charity, renew their offer-
ings each year, as far as their means will
allow. All offerings should be directed to
one of the Fathers of the Mission, thus:
Rev. , St. Michael, Alaska, care of
Alaska Commercial Company, Sansone
120 An American Missionary
Street, San Francisco, Cal., and should be
sent in time to reach there before the first of
May, and the freight should be paid at least
that far.
I nearly forgot to tell you about a little
experience I had on the 29th of January last,
feast of St. Francis de Sales. I had been at
the lower village to say the beads and teach
catechism, and about half past five started
to return. It was very dark and stormy, so
that I could not see five feet ahead, but I
thought I could keep the trail by feeling with
my feet. For the first half-mile I went all
right, passing a big snag that lay near the
trail, and going some distance beyond it; but
then I lost the trail, and only after feeling
around for some time found it and started
again. Presently I saw something black
ahead of me, and could not imagine what it
could be; so, with some misgivings, I kept
on until I reached it, and what was my sur-
prise when I found it was the snag I thought
I had left a mile behind me. In finding the
trail after I had lost it, I had turned around,
and instead of going towards home was re-
tracing my steps. After taking care to turn
right about face, and remembering that the
storm was blowing down the river, and
therefore I should face it all the time, I
started again, and made perhaps half a mile
more, when I lost the trail again, and this
^^m^^
^ii'Sntitllii
^^
On the Yukon 121
time for good. It was so dark that when I
tried to retrace my steps I could not see the
last footprint I had made. Once I was off
the trail, the snow was above my waist, and
every step was a labor. After trying some
time, I gave up all hope of regaining the
trail; and, keeping my face to the wind, tried
to make what headway I could in the snow.
After some time, I made a hole in the snow
to rest, but I felt so sleepy I was afraid to
stop long, and started off again, resolved to
keep up as long as I could. So I wandered
on for several hours, and was on the point
of stopping, intending to pass the night in
the snow, when I heard some one call. It
was a welcome sound in the stillness of the
night, and after answering the call for some
time I met two Indians, whom the Brothers
had sent out to look for me, and who led me
to the house.
The night was not very cold, about ten
degrees below zero, so perhaps I would not
have suffered seriously from sleeping out,
but I was so warm from the exertion of walk-
ing in the deep snow it would have been easy
for me to have taken cold. I was three hours
and a half, instead of a half-hour, coming up ;
but, besides being very tired, I was none the
worse for it. If I had taken my snow-shoes,
losing the trail would not have been so seri-
ous, but I knew the trail was good, and did
122 An American Missionary
not expect to be so late returning, nor did I
foresee the driving snow-storm that so com-
pletely shut out all view.
One of our Fathers on the coast had a
more narrow escape. He started with two
Indians and three sleighs, each one of them
taking a sleigh, to go from one station to
another, expecting to be two or three days
on the road, but the very day they started
they were overtaken by one of those driving
snow-storms, so common on the coast.
When it came upon them, they were follow-
ing close behind one another, the Father
being the last; but soon they lost sight of
one another, and of every landmark by which
they could guide themselves, and what made
it worse for the Father and the man in front,
the middle sleigh had all the provisions.
After a fruitless search for the others, as
night came on the Father made his camp
in the snow, and passed the night supperless.
The next morning, it had cleared off enough
to let him see the mountains, by which he
knew that he was not far from the place they
had left, so he returned, and all three met.
It was fortunate the storm did not last
longer, especially for the two without food.
We are expecting at any moment the
steamer which will take our letters to the
coast. It is more than two weeks later than
last year, and therefore may not be in time
On the Yukon 123
to catch the first boat leaving for San Fran-
cisco. I shall not write to the others until
I receive my mail, which I expect about the
middle of July.
I am well and have enjoyed good health
all the year, and in fact ever since I came to
the Mission, and the same may be said of all
here; so I do not think any one need be afraid
to come here on account of health.
Some, I believe, have been frightened by
things written from here in regard to food,
imagining we sometimes have to live on de-
cayed fish, &c., but as far as I have heard,
none of us have been reduced to that, nor
have we so far been in want of good, healthy
food, though occasionally, as in my own case
this year, we have been very near it, but God
has always come to our assistance in the nick
of time.
We have beautiful weather now, moder-
ately warm, clear, and bright, with full
daylight all the time, so that we almost for-
get during these three months what night
means, and what a star looks like, for we
never see one. In the fishing camps espec-
ially, the Indians pay no attention to time,
but each one sleeps and eats when he feels
like it, so that the camp is as busy at mid-
night as it is at midday. I know the sever-
ity of our winters has frightened some, who
have not been where the cold is severe, but
124 An American Missionary
it has no terrors for those who have ex-
perienced it, and there seems to be something
about this country that fascinates all who
come here, for I have never yet met one, even
of those who come to make money, who
wished to leave it as long as he could get
something to do.
Good-by for another year, unless I get
time to send you a few words by the last
steamer.
In the union of the Sacred Heart I remain,
Your affectionate Brother,
William H. Judge, S. J.
The Missionary's undiminished fraternal
affection manifests itself in a letter written
at this time to his younger brother:
Nulato, Alaska, July 24th, 1894.
Dear Brother:
I have just read a second time your two
letters, which I received on the 19th inst. I
cannot tell you what feelings of pleasure and
gratitude they awaken within me. Every
line tells me you are happy, and I can truly
say in your regard, what the old Romans
were wont to say when saluting a friend:
'' If you are happy, I am happy." You can-
not be too grateful to God for all He has
done for you; and there is no better means
On the Yukon 125
to obtain God's blessings in the future, than
to be thankful for those already received.
But remember that a true Christian blesses
God no less when He sends crosses and
trials, than when He gives things most
pleasing to nature. So, you must be always
prepared to say, with holy Job, '' the Lord
gave, and the Lord hath taken away; blessed
be the name of the Lord.''
If we keep well in mind the truth that
God loves us as His own children, with an
infinite and most tender love, and watches
over us with so great care that not a hair
falls from our heads without His knowledge
and permission, it will not be hard to under-
stand that whatever happens to us in this
life, is for our greater good, if we receive it
as we should. This truth is the philoso-
pher's stone, which has the power of turning
all things into gold; for, as soon as it is ap-
plied to the sorrows of this life, it renders
them sweet and delightful, because the love
of the Giver more than compensates for the
bitterness of the gift; or rather, it changes
the bitterness into sweetness.
Some one sent me the papers containing
the account of the Cardinal's Jubilee. It
was the first I had heard of it. Everything
concerning him has peculiar interest for me;
for, he was my confessor when he was only
a priest, and directed and encouraged me
126 An American Missionary
during the long years I was uncertain about
my future. For, although from my earliest
years I believed God called me to the Priest-
hood, still, for many years, I could not see
how I was to attain to it.
It is such a commonplace thing for me to
be well, that it is easy for me to forget to
mention it in my letters. This year has been
no exception to the common rule, a bone-
felon and a little neuralgia being the only
splinters of the cross, in that line, that fell
to my lot.
So far this promises to be a good year for
fish. I hope it may continue so, for dry fish
is here like flour in the States; if we have a
good supply of that, there is no real want or
suffering. Good-by. May God bless you!
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
The source of the Missionary's strength is
shown in a letter written two days later, in
which he says: '^As you say, we have the
same Sweet Heart to rest on as you have;
and, if He is with us what does it matter
what else is wanting; for ' he who possesses
God, possesses all things.' It was this
thought — namely that being a priest, no
matter where I might go, I could hope al-
ways to have our Lord in the Blessed Sac-
rament — that gave me courage to leave all
that was dear to me in the East, both in the
On the Yukon 127
family and in Religion; nor have I been dis-
appointed in my hopes. Without that
blessed Presence the mission life would in-
deed be a dreary one at times, or rather at
all times/'
A few weeks later an event occurred which
drew Father Judge a step nearer the scene
of his future great work. It is well however
to remember that the world was yet wholly
ignorant of the treasure that lay concealed
along the banks of the tiny tributary of the
Yukon, which was soon to become so world-
famous.
The change is described in the letters that
follow.
CHAPTER VI.
FORTY MILE POST AND CIRCLE CITY.
"Man proposes but God disposes."
Steamer Arctic,
Yukon River, beyond the Arctic Circle,
Aug. 23, 1894.
Dear :
I am on the go again; and this time, I
have more reason to say "good-by!''
than heretofore, because I am leaving the
United States. When the A. C. Company's
steamer came to Nulato a week ago, it
brought me orders from Father Superior to
go to a place called Forty Mile, v^hich is an
old trading-post, and now the largest min-
ing-camp on the Yukon. I believe there are
eight or nine hundred miners there this year
besides the Indians, who also are miners. It
is in British Columbia, about ten miles be-
yond our boundary, and 1,600 miles from the
mouth of the Yukon.
I shall be all alone there this year and a
thousand miles from any of our Fathers, too
far to send in a hurry if I should need them.
128
o
H
w
O
H
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 129
Father Superior wished to start a Mission
there long ago, but he could not spare the
men. This year the CathoHcs among the
miners begged so hard for a priest, that he
could hardly refuse them.
Four days later, but still on the steamer
heading southeast from the Arctic Circle, he
speaks of his new move in these terms : —
Steamer Arctic,
Yukon River, Alaska, Aug. 27th, 1894.
I send you this as a '' good-by '' for the
year, and to let you know where I shall
spend the coming winter This time
I believe I am coming nearer to you, al-
though I am leaving the United States.* . .
I have been taken from my good Indians at
Nulato, where I was so happy, and sent here.
I had no notice of the change until the
steamer, which was to take me away, came;
so I had to take hurriedly what I could, and
leave, without time to say '' good-by.'' But
I assure you, I have never felt happier or
more like a Jesuit than I do now; and I am
sure it will not be long before I am as much
attached to this new Mission as I was to the
other. ...
* A glance at the map will show the reader that the Yukon
flows from the southeast till it curves across the Arctic Circle;
when, as if recoiling from the polar regions, the great river
flows southwest to Bering Sea.
130 An American Missionary
Of course, miners, as a rule, '' ain't no
saints''; but I am not afraid, and in fact I
rather like to deal with such men. They are
from every part of the world; to-day I met
one, a Catholic, from Damascus I
trust much to your prayers.
Sacred Heart Mission,
Shag-aluk River, Alaska, May 25th, 1895.
Dear Brother:
When I closed my last letter to you, I left
you under the impression that I would spend
the winter at Forty Mile, among the miners,
and so I thought, and so the Superiors in-
tended, but '' Man proposes but God dis-
poses." How little do we know what the
future will bring, or what we shall do to-
morrow ! When I wrote you, I was already
on the steamer going to Forty Mile, and yet
God had other designs. The morning after
we left Nulato, I heard a crash in the Cap-
tain's cabin, which was next to mine, and
you can imagine my feelings when, shortly
afterwards, he told me he had broken the
demijohn of Mass wine, which had been put
in his charge at Holy Cross Mission, and
which was to serve me for the whole year.
This caused me not a little worry; but, as
they were confident then that they could
make another trip before the river got too
low, I went on, with the gloomy prospect of
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 131
being six weeks or more without Mass, for
it would take the steamer that long to re-
turn.
It was the first time I had been so far up
the Yukon. I had not been beyond Nulato,
which is about six hundred miles from the
mouth, while Forty Mile is about sixteen
hundred miles from St. Michael. The river is
very much the same all the way up, except in
one place, where there are mountains on both
sides,'^ while elsewhere they are only on one
side. The only little incident that happened
on the way up to break the monotony of the
steamer life, occurred one morning after we
had passed a place called Birch Creek, where
we took on twenty-six miners. About four
A. M., when many were not yet up, the pilot
saw two moose trying to cross the river some
distance ahead of the steamer, and at once
began to blow the whistle, which had a
double effect — first, to frighten the moose
and so keep them from gaining the banks,
and secondly, to arouse everyone on the
steamer. In a few moments the whole front
* The Lower Ramparts of the Yukon. " At this point,"
says a late writer, " the river emerges from a noble series of
steep hills guarding its waters on both sides. They extend
along its course for two hundred miles, and are so embattled
in appearance as to give to this part of the country the ap-
pellation of Ramparts. For this entire distance the Yukon
is half a mile wide, with rapid, smooth current, and deep
enough to float an ocean liner."
Lynch — '* Three Years in the Klondike."
132 An American Missionary
of the steamer was ablaze with repeating
rifles, so that the poor things had no chance
for life. Mr. G., one of the members of the
A. C. Company from San Francisco, was the
first to hit them while yet in the water, at
seven hundred yards. For ten or fifteen min-
utes there was a perfect rain of bullets all
around them, and yet they received only
three or four wounds.
When we reached Forty Mile, I rented a
cabin, got some flour, bacon, and tea from
the trader, and started housekeeping in true
hermit style. After looking around for a few
days I started to build a log-house for my-
self, but when I had the first round of logs
on, the steamer returned from up the river,
and then they told me that they might not
be able to get back from St. Michael, on ac-
count of low water in some parts of the river.
I had, in the meantime, tried to find some-
thing that could be used for Mass wine; but
no one except the Episcopal Bishop had any,
and he would not give it. So I thought the
safest thing would be to go down to Holy
Cross on the steamer, get the wine and other
things I needed, and return, if the steamer
could get up. Two things especially
moved me to this: first, I did not like the
idea of being a whole year without Mass;
and secondly, I thought it would make a bad
impression, in a mixed community like that,
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 133
to have Catholic service, without Mass.
Having taken this resolution, I at once ar-
ranged my affairs with the trader and started
down.
After I had been about a week at Holy
Cross, the steamer came on its way up again,
with a cargo of about one hundred tons of
provisions, which would be badly needed at
Forty Mile during the winter, the captain
hoping to get up, even if he could not get
back again. Again I started for Forty Mile,
having made sure of the safety of the Mass
wine this time. All went well the first two
days, but on the third day the captain, who
was making the trip against his will, quar-
reled with the purser and left the boat, say-
ing he would never be able to get up. The
next day, the chief pilot said he was
going to leave because he had no winter
clothes with him, but in truth because he
thought they would pay him whatever he
asked rather than let him go; but he was
mistaken, for they let him go. We were for-
tunate enough to find at one of the stopping-
places an Indian, who had been chief pilot
for many years, but who is now mining,
having discovered a creek, which bears his
name, and which is said to be as rich as any
yet found here."*"
*The name of this intelligent Indian was Manook or
Minook. The latter name was given not only to the creek
134 An American Missionary
After this, all went well until we got to
what is called Fort Yukon, a place where the
Hudson Bay Company had a large fort and
trading-post, but where there is now only a
warehouse, built last year, for storing the
goods of the trader. For some miles beyond
this point the river becomes very wide and
shallow, which makes it difficult for the
steamer to pass, except when the river is
high. We arrived at Fort Yukon in the
evening and remained there over night, so as
to have full daylight to make the trial, for
we knew it would be close work, if we got
through at all. At three o'clock next morn-
ing we started out, and in about one hour
came to one of the worst places. Here we
stuck and for more than an hour tried place
after place, and even sent a small boat to
sound and find out if there were water
enough anywhere for us to pass, but all in
vain; so we returned to Fort Yukon, where
we left the cargo. We sent word by an In-
dian to Forty Mile, which is about three
hundred miles from Fort Yukon, telling the
trader at the former place where we were
leaving the provisions, so that in case of ur-
gent need he could come for them with
sleighs when the river would be closed.
which flows into the Yukon at the western extremity of the
Ramparts, but also to the town just below the mouth of the
creek. The town is now known as Rampart or Rampart City.
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 135
I had now to make another election and to
decide whether to remain and try to get to
Forty Mile by sleigh in the winter, or to re-
turn to Holy Cross. After saying Mass, re-
citing the Veni Creator, and considering the
chances on the one hand of getting up to
Forty Mile, and on the other of being left at
Fort Yukon all the year, I determined to re-
turn. Of course, the Father Superior was
disappointed when I returned, and so was I;
but I had done my best and I felt confident
that it had all so happened by the special
appointment of God, to bring about what He
wished.
When I returned to Holy Cross, winter
was already setting in, so I could not go
anywhere until the sleighing season began,
which would be in about a month. This
time I spent very happily with the Father
Superior and Father Crimont, who had just
come from the States and whom I knew at
Woodstock, and the three Brothers. To-
gether they make up our largest community.
What added very much to the happiness of
those weeks of reunion was that we made
our retreat all together.
As soon as the retreat was over, I started
in company with a Brother and an Indian
for this station on the Shagaluk to open this
house, which I began to build three years
ago; but I had to leave before it was half up.
136 An American Missionary
In the meantime, two Brothers had come and
finished the walls and put on the roof, but
nothing more. We had two sleighs loaded
very heavily, for we needed so many things
— provisions, bedding, tools, stove, etc., and
besides we had only eleven dogs for the two
sleighs, which would not have been too many
for one, especially as they were not as good
as they might have been, half of them being
pups only one year old. However, we got
along very well, with a little hard work
when the road was not good. The first day
we made about twenty-five miles, and at dark
camped for the night in an old Indian sum-
mer house.
These summer houses consist generally of
a lot of sticks about as thick as a man's arm
standing side by side, making an inclosure
about eight feet square and six feet high,
and a roof of the same kind of sticks, with
a hole in the centre to let off the smoke, all
covered with moss and clay. The one we
camped in was minus the moss and clay on
two sides; but it was better than camping
outside, with a temperature of twenty de-
grees below zero, so we went to work to fix
it up as best we could.
I began by covering the two sides, from
which the moss had fallen, with my blanket;
then we covered the remaining holes with a
piece of drill, which we had brought for
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 137
trading, and made a fire inside, Indian fash-
ion; but we could not stand the smoke, so
we unpacked our sleighs and got out a box-
stove we had, put it up, with two or three
pieces of pipe running through the smoke-
hole in the roof, shut everything up as well
as we could, and made a good fire, which
soon made it quite comfortable. After cook-
ing and enjoying our supper, Brother and I
performed our religious exercises together,
filled up the stove, and prepared a supply of
wood for the night. We had a good sleep,
and in the morning I said Mass, after which
we took our breakfast, broke up camp, and
started. About noon we stopped for a din-
ner of dried fish, tea, and mush made of
boiled flour, which you might find a little
heavy; but when one is travelling in the cold,
it is very good eaten with a little molasses.
That evening we reached a place called
Nekakai, where an Indian has a log house,
the only one in that neighborhood, and
stopped there for the night. The house once
had a good furnace made of stones and mud
that made it very comfortable, but for want
of repairs it had become unfit for use, and,
Indian-like, the family had gone to live in a
mud house near by. As soon as we arrived,
we took possession of the log house, and
when we saw that we could not make a fire
in the old furnace, we got out our stove
138 An American Missionary
again and put it up. This house is about
10 X 14 feet and divided into two rooms, one
of which I had to myself. Here we had a
good night's rest, said Mass, and after
breakfast continued our journey. About
nine o'clock we reached the first regular vil-
lage on the road, and we stopped for about
an hour while I baptized two children.
About noon the same day we met a party
of Indians, who told me there was, at a little
village somewhat out of our way, a child
who was very sick, and who had not been
baptized. At once, I started to go there^
but it was after nightfall when I arrived, not
a little fatigued, and you can imagine my
sorrow when they told me the little one had
died in the morning. I did not mind the
fatigue of the journey, as long as I had the
hope of saving that Httle soul, but God
willed it otherwise. We spent the night in
the village, and next morning after Mass
and breakfast resumed our march, arriving
at our journey's end about ten o'clock.
We found this house, or at least the walls
and roof of the house (for there were no
floors or partitions yet) so covered with
frost inside that one would have thought it
was made of ice or snow. With very little
delay we spread some loose boards in the
middle of the house, put the stove on them,
and ran the pipe through an opening in-
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 139
tended for a door at the back. Then we
made a hot fire, and by two o'clock had slap-
jacks and tea ready for dinner. Very soon
the heat from the stove began to melt the
frost on the walls and roof, and for two or
three days it was difficult to find a place
where one could keep dry.
It was Saturday when we got here, and
immediately after dinner I went over to the
village on the other side of the river, to see
a young man, whom I had baptized when
here three years ago, and who, I heard be-
fore starting, was now dying of consumption.
When I went into the mud house where he
lived, I found him on the ground near the
fire, his face black with smoke, and so weak
that he could not move and could scarcely
speak. I had him put on the side shelf or
ledge, which is raised above the ground, and
got some water and washed his face and
hands, for which he was most grateful.
Then I heard his confession and tried to
prepare him for death, as I saw he was very
near the end. The next day, Sunday, I
anointed him, and when I went to see him on
Monday, I found him in his agony, so I re-
mained with him, saying the beads in Indian
and repeating the Holy Names until he died.
As soon as the death-stroke came, which
was some minutes before he drew his last
breath, all his relatives, men and women,
140 An American Missionary
stripped to the waist and began to cry or
wail in a most mechanical manner, waving
their arms over his body in a frantic way.
It was the first time I had been present when
one of the natives died, and I was not pre-
pared for this demonstration, but I remained
kneeling at his head repeating the Holy
Names until I was sure he was dead. Then
I made them put on their clothes and would
not let them touch him until I had said the
beads again for the repose of his soul. He
had been a good young man, and it seemed
as though God kept him alive until I came to
give him the Sacraments.
As soon as we got one-fourth of the floor
of our house down, I started to build an al-
tar, and in two weeks I was able to say Mass
on it; but, although I was very anxious to
have the Blessed Sacrament in the house, I
was not able to finish the altar and chapel
until Holy Thursday. The chapel is four-
teen feet wide and ten feet deep and
separated by folding doors from the Indian
room, fourteen feet by twenty feet, which
serves as the body of the church during ser-
vices. Just inside the door is the altar-rail-
ing, the first, I believe, in Alaska. The altar
has two steps and is nine feet over all. Noth-
ing gives me more happiness than to be able
to have things nice for our dear Lord in the
Sacrament of His Love, and therefore I am
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 141
most grateful to those who send me any-
thing for the altar or the chapel. The house
is thirty feet long and twenty-four feet wide.
Up-stairs there is a half-story over all, except
the chapel, which gives storage, a place for
one or two Indian boys, whom I generally
keep, and a room for a Brother, when I am
happy enough to have one. At present I
have charge of six villages, this one, two
down the river, and three up, so that I am
nearly in the middle of the Mission.
On the 7th of January I started to visit the
three upper villages. When I arrived at the
last of the three, which is about fifty miles
from this house, I found the people making
what they call a feast, which is a supersti-
tious performance, by which they believe
they will obtain all they need for the coming
year. At first they would not let me go into
the Casino. When I told them I would not
speak against their performance while in
there, they allowed me to go in. I was glad,
because I had never seen the whole business
before, and I wished to know just how much
superstition there is in these feasts. I will
try to describe all I saw that night, so that
you may know what we have to work
against.
This Casino is about twenty-five by forty
feet, the side walls about eight feet high,
with a roof slanting from the walls to the
142 An American Missionary
centre, where is the window, which is about
sixteen feet from the floor. During these
feasts they put four sticks (about six feet
high, and four or five inches wide, and dec-
orated with feathers and drawings of ani-
mals), one a few feet from each wall, at the
four sides of the room. They believe that
these sticks contain spirits, which have
power to make them live or die, and that if
anyone go between these sticks and the wall,
he will die. Then they make hundreds of
sticks about the size of a yardstick, on one
end of which they carve rudely different ani-
mals, fish, bags of flour or tea, and every-
thing they desire to get. These they place
side by side all around the Casino, just
where the roof joins the wall, and they be-
lieve the more of these sticks they place in
the Casino during the feast, the more things
they will get.
They never have their performances in the
day time, but always at night, and generally
begin them about six o'clock, which is full
night here in winter. When all is ready, all
the people come in, young and old, men,
women, and children, the men occupying the
large bench or shelf, which runs all around,
and the women and children sitting on the
floor and filling every corner, leaving only
the centre of the room clear. On one side of
this opening, that night, there were six men
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 143
with hoops covered with seal bladders
stretched Hke drum-heads, and all night long
they beat these with small, flat sticks, keep-
ing time to the singing, which they kept up
all night, sometimes in solo, sometimes in
chorus. It was the best Indian singing I
have heard since I came here. They sang
in this way until near midnight, when they
brought in another stick dressed with
feathers like the others, and placed it in the
middle of the room. Then a woman and a
girl dressed for the occasion with feathers
on their heads and feathers tied on their fin-
gers, came before the stick and began to bow
and bow to it, first at a little distance, then
gradually drawing nearer, until they got
close to it, when they got down on their
knees and bowed down to the floor many
times.
During all this, the men were beating their
drums and the people singing. After some
time the woman and the girl disappeared
through a hole in the floor, the stick that had
received so much homage was removed, and
the singing went on as before. When I
spoke with some of the most intelligent of
the men and tried to show them that these
sticks had no power to help them, their only
answer was : '' When we do this way, we
have plenty, but when we do not do it, we
have nothing." Again, to show you what
144 An American Missionary
reverence they have for the Medicine Man:
in another village, on one occasion, they shut
the window in the top of the Casino before
all the smoke was out; and when they per-
ceived that, one of the men took an old
Shaman's glove, put it on a stick, and stuck
it up in the middle of the room. When I
asked what that was for, they told me it
would prevent the smoke from making them
sick. After arguing with them for a while, I
took the glove and beat it as hard as I could
with my fist and said to them, " See, I beat
it, and it has no power to hurt me!" But, as
before, they only answered, '' If we do that,
we do not get sick; but if we do not put it
there, we get sick.'' On my trip I baptized
five infants, one of whom died about two
months afterwards. To see these little ones
go to heaven is one of our greatest consola-
tions at present. It is very hard to get the
old people to give up the superstitions they
have been educated in from their childhood;
all we can do is to instruct them as well as
we can, and try to save them at the last
moment . Many of the young are better
disposed, and I think, in time, with constant
teaching, they will give up these supersti-
tions.
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 145
Holy Cross Mission,
Feast of the Sacred Heart.
I started from my Mission to come here
on the 27th of May in a boat I had built for
the purpose. The distance is seventy-five
miles by the river, and I expected to make it
in one dav, but the mouth of the river was
gorged with ice, which almost stopped the
current, so we had to paddle all the way.
The second night we met the ice about fifteen
miles from the mouth of the Shagaluk and
had to stop. Next morning it had moved
down, so we started again; but, after going
about five miles, we overtook it and at first
thought we would have to wait. However,
after going along the bank for some distance
and examining it, we found that on account
of the little current in the river the ice was
not so compact as it generally is, so we
determined to try to make our way through
it. At first it was close work, and would
have been dangerous if there had been any
current, but after working among the ice for
about three hours, we came to clear water
again, which lasted until we got to the
mouth of the river, which we found entirely
blocked up.
As it was near noon, we stopped and pre-
pared our dinner, which consisted of a duck
roasted on a stick over a camp-fire, without
146 An American Missionary
any bread or vegetables. In fact, I had been
living chiefly on geese and ducks for nearly
a month, so that the prospect of waiting two
or three days for the ice to go out was far
from being pleasant.
While we were taking our simple dinner,
three Indians came down in their canoes,
wishing also to get over to the Mission.
After talking the matter over and sending a
man up a tree to try to see if the Yukon
were clear of ice, the Indians said they knew
a way to get to the Yukon by making a long
portage across the country and following a
slough. I determined to leave my boat with
my boy and an Indian, who would bring it
as soon as the river was open, and to go
myself with the three Indians by the portage.
After going a short distance in the canoes,
we landed and carried them two or three
miles across the country to a slough of the
Yukon, which, though not clear of ice, was
sufficiently so to allow our canoes to go.
After following this for about two hours,
we came in sight of the Yukon, which, to our
great relief, we found entirely clear of ice, so
all we had to do was to cross the Yukon and
we were at the Mission, where we arrived at
7 P. M., just in time for the Benediction after
May service.
Since I came here, I have been delighted
to see the piety of the school children, boys
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 147
and girls. In March, Father Superior made
the trip to Kotzebue Sound, and selected a
place for a Mission, which he hoped to start
this year, if we got any men. His health was
not good when he started, and it was a long
and difficult journey. For the success of this
undertaking Father Crimont who has charge
of the boys, and the Sisters, started a kind
of Apostleship of Prayer among the children,
by which they were to offer up prayers, good
works, and penances for Father Tosi and
the success of his trip. You would be aston-
ished, as I was myself, to see the list of heroic
acts of charity, mortification, and self-denial
performed by these Indian children during
the month of March — taking the discipline
at night, eating their meals on the floor,
keeping hours of silence during the time they
are allowed to speak, etc.
During the month of May they did the
same in honor of our Blessed Mother, offer-
ing the acts to her on the day of the May pro-
cession at the end of the month. But during
this month, June, and especially during the
novena to the Sacred Heart, they have sur-
passed themselves. I do not think they have
been outdone by the same number of white
children in any school; so their generosity
may be a spur even to your boys.
Just at the beginning of the novena to the
Sacred Heart, one of the girls was taken
148 An American Missionary
sick; the next day, as there were evident
signs that she was going into a coma, the
Father heard her confession, gave her the
Viaticum, and anointed her. When she re-
ceived the Sacraments, she was perfectly
conscious, but shortly after, the coma came
on However, at times she regained con-
sciousness, and Sunday night she prayed
all night and told the Sister she would go to
heaven on Wednesday. At noon on Monday
she again became insensible, and at seven
o'clock in the evening died without a strug-
gle. She had been a good girl, very devout
to the Sacred Heart. She was about four-
teen years old and had been with the Sisters
three or four years.
Our May procession, although not so
grand as yours, was very devotional, and
made me feel very happy, for they sang the
same litanies and hymns as we used to sing
in the grand processions at Loyola. We pre-
pared two altars outside for the Corpus
Christi procession. The feast-day itself was
a beautiful day; but, as we expected back,
for Sunday, Father Superior, Father Robaut,
and two Brothers, who were away, we put
off the procession to that day, and to our
great disappointment it rained nearly all day,
so we could not have it.
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 149
St. Michael, July.
On the 24th of June the steamer Arctic
arrived at Holy Cross Mission, having on
board all the traders from the upper river.
This first down trip of the A. C. Company's
boat is a great event at the Mission, because
the children always give a little entertain-
ment to the agents of the Company, the
traders, and any white passengers who may
chance to be on board. The children are
very anxious for the arrival of this steamer,
and often go to the top of the mountain to
see if there is any sign of it.
Its arrival was most opportune this year.
The children saw the smoke from the
mountain about one hour before the boat
arrived, and at once began to prepare for the
great event of the year. When the steamer
came, the weather was clear and bright, and
the Mission never looked better. The chil-
dren, boys and girls, were drawn up in two
lines to receive the visitors, and one of the
boys read a nice little address of welcome
to the head agent of the A. C. Company, who
was among them. After the address, the
children filed into the large schoolroom, fol-
lowed by the visitors. The Sisters had pre-
pared a long program; but the steamer had
been delayed, and the agent was very anx-
ious to reach St. Michael before the ocean
150 An American Missionary
steamer arrived there; so they left out much
that had been prepared, giving only a song
of welcome, some specimens of reading, a
second address and a few more songs, the
last of which was '' Wait for the Wagon."
Although the entertainment was so short,
all were astonished at what they saw and
heard. When the next steamer goes up, it is
likely the children will have a chance to give
the whole program. The boys read at table
for the Fathers, and I can safely say they are
not inferior to any white boys of the same
age.
The ocean steamer arrived here Saturday,
June 29th, bringing only one Father and one
Brother, while we were hoping for at least
three Fathers and as many Brothers. There
are so many calls on us, from both whites
and Indians, that Rev. Father Superior is
truly puzzled how to supply so many de-
mands with so few subjects.
During the past year this station has been
completely renewed by the new agent of the
A. C. Company. The old buildings have all
been remodeled or repaired, and many new
buildings have been added, among them sev-
eral large warehouses, a large boarding-
house for the traders and visitors, and pri-
vate houses. We have a double house for
the first time ; heretofore we had only rooms
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 151
in the Company's houses ; or, when they were
full, we lived in our tents.
The number of whites in the country is in-
creasing very rapidly and, consequently, the
demand for food. Every year since I came,
the A. C. Company has been doubling its
suppHes ; but, even with what the new Com-
pany brings, it has been, until this year, close
work, especially for the upper country.
The A. C. Company will put on two new
river steamers this summer, one very large
which will carry at least three hundred tons,
and one small which will remain in the upper
river to supply the stations above Forty Mile.
The Yukon river passes just in front of the
Mission, about a hundred yards from the
fence. This year we have extended the gar-
den to within a few feet of the river-bank.
Last year the Sisters raised a quantity of fine
cauHflower, and both Fathers and Sisters had
potatoes, turnips, cabbage, and other vegeta-
bles all the year, and were able to give them
frequently to the children, who are especially
fond of raw turnips, and who enjoy much
better health since we have been able to give
them in abundance.
This year we hope to have potatoes enough
to give them to the children daily. I have
not yet enjoyed the luxury of vegetables,
except for short intervals, as I have always
run away from Missions, when they began to
152 An American Missionary
have vegetables, to go to stations where
there were none.
Among our children is the daughter of
the Russian priest, which shows that our
school has a very good name. We also have
the children of nearly all the traders. One of
the larger girls is already able to play the
organ at Mass. Many of the children are
fond of music, and some show unusual talent
for it. I wish we had some violins and other
instruments for the boys. It would add very
much to the school if we could have a band,
but we are too poor to buy the instruments
and music.
Many boys and girls have left the school
and are doing well; some of the boys are em-
ployed by the A. C. Company, others are
clerking for the traders and giving great sat-
isfaction. Several girls who have been mar-
ried to good young men (Indians) give great
promise for the future, and they cannot fail
to do much good to those around them.
There have not been many children at the
new school, which we opened last year, but
only because we did not wish too many until
the Sisters had time to prepare. We can
have as many children at the school as we
wish; the only limit is, how many have we
the means to support. If we could only
make our needs known to those who have
the means to help us, I am sure many would
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 153
be happy to aid us in this good work. The
boarding-schools produce soHd fruit, and ac-
compHsh it more quickly and better than
any other means; but, of course, they are ex-
pensive, and we have been notified that the
little help the Government has been giving
us will be discontinued for the future, so we
now depend entirely on charity for the sup-
port of the Mission.
We have been blessed with an unusually
fine spring and summer this year, and what
adds very much, we have never seen so few
mosquitoes.
We now have ten Fathers, seven Brothers,
and eleven Sisters; but what is that for such
an immense country? When will the Lord
hear our prayers and send laborers into his
vineyard ?
Thank God I am well, and as happy as
ever. I love this Mission and would be very
sorry to return to the States, even for a
short time. Even to come here (to St. Mi-
chael) is a penance, as it keeps me from my
Mission so long; and, what is worse, as so
few new missionaries came to join us this
year. Father Superior may be compelled to
send me to some new station. Fiat volun-
tas Dei!
Now I think I have given you a good idea
of my simple year's work, and hope you will
not find it altogether uninteresting.
154 An American Missionary
I cannot tell you now where I shall spend
the coming year, but I shall try to write you
later, when it is settled. In the union of the
Sacred Heart, I remain.
Your affectionate Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
Fraternal affection, gratitude to God, and
cheerful courage, becoming stronger amid
the hardships of Mission work, are mani-
fested in other letters written from St. Mi-
chael in the summer of this year.
" You always ask me," he writes, '' to tell
you everything about myself, and I try to do
so; although I am almost afraid, because
you exaggerate things so much, making
what is nothing something very heroic.
''I was very happy this year with my good
Indians, at the Sacred Heart Mission, and I
had plenty to eat all the year; but, about the
first of May, my flour began to run out, so I
had to put myself on short allowance. At
first, I had two cups of flour a day, which was
good enough, although three cups would
have been much better; then I got to one cup
a day; and, the last week before I came to
Holy Cross Mission, I had no cup. Still
there was no danger of starvation or even of
being very hungry, as I had plenty of geese,
ducks, and fish ; but to eat these three times a
day without bread or vegetables is harder
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 155
than one, who has not tried it, would think.
When I had only two cups of flour left, I
woke up one night about twelve o'clock,
feeling very sick; and shortly after I began
to vomit as though I had been poisoned.
But I think it was only a bihous attack
brought on by eating so much meat at the
time of the year when we do not need it.
''The next day I was unable to eat any-
thing but broken ice. The second day was
the feast of the Ascension. With difflculty,
I said Mass and got my Indian boy to cook
the two cups of flour, making two short-
cakes, one of which I took that day, but kept
the other for several days, taking only a
little piece at each meal. If I had not been
sick it would not have been so hard, but I
could not bear the sight of meat for some
days. The day before I got sick, I had a sud-
den inspiration to communicate as though
it were my Viaticum, and I did so. When I
woke up the next night feeling so sick, I
could not help thinking that it might be the
beginning of the end and that the commun-
ion of the morning was really the Viaticum,
as there was no priest within fifty miles, and
it was impossible to send word at that season
when the snow was melting and the rivers
not yet clear of ice. But, as A Kempis says,
I was not worthy to pass to my reward yet ;
and so I must strive now with the help of
156 An American Missionary
your prayers to prepare better. I expect to
be alone again this year, for nine or ten
months; but do not fear, for I feel confi-
dent that He, for whose sake I am leaving
all, even the Sacraments, will not forsake
me in the hour of need/'
To one of his brothers, he says: '' I assure
you I have never felt really separated from
you. You are so constantly present to my
mind that it is hard to realize I have not
seen you for so long, or that there are so
many thousands of miles between us
I am very happy, and my happiness is not
a little increased by hearing that all the
dear ones in the States are well and happy."
On July 24th, he wrote to one of his sis-
ters : " As you say, it is not so much what we
do, that God regards, as with how much
generosity we do it. And what more can
any one do than to desire with his whole
heart that God's holy will may be fully ac-
complished in him, and to do all he can
to bring it about. This year, I have felt
more than ever before, how grateful we
should be for the many special graces we
have all received We should be
continually thanking His Divine Majesty for
these special tokens of His love; and we may
be sure that if we are grateful for graces
already received, He will not fail to grant
those we need for the future. I think there
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 157
is nothing sweeter or more soothing to the
soul than an ardent desire that God's holy
will may be fully and perfectly accomplished
in us; so, when we feel such desires in our
hearts, we should thank God for them, as
they are the fruit of His bounty towards
us
" I am very well and happy now. I shall
have to remain here (at St. Michael) about
two weeks more, to attend to our supplies
for the coming year and to look after what-
ever goods may be sent us by the steamer;
then I shall go to Forty Mile, and remain
there until next summer. I know I shall
have plenty of work, so the time will not
hang heavily on my hands. Ever since I
came to Alaska, I have been wishing that
the days and the years were twice as long.''
By September, Father Judge was once
more afloat on the great river, as we see from
the following letter:
Steamer Alice,
Yukon River, Alaska, Sept. 2nd, 1895.
Dear Brother:
I received the books you so kindly sent
me, and I am very thankful for them. As
you see from the heading, I am on the go
again, and with a good prospect of reach-
ing Forty Mile this time. I was hoping
158 An American Missionary
we would receive a good reinforcement this
year; but only one Father came, and two
had to return to the States. So Father
Superior had no one else he could send to
the whites, and I had to go.
We could not well refuse them a priest
this year; because, now that our Superior
is Prefect Apostolic, he has charge of the
whites as well as of the Indians; and be-
sides, the number of the former is increas-
ing very fast. I have already given you, in
my letters of last year, an idea of what my
life may be; but what it will be in reality,
I cannot say until next year. No doubt the
hardest part will be to be alone for ten
months, with no communication whatever
with the other Fathers ; but I hope it will be
'' alone with God.''
The letter you wrote May 28th, 1894, came
to St. Michael, but too late to be sent up the
river. It was forwarded to Holy Cross dur-
ing the winter, where I found it when I got
there about the first of June. So, it was just
a year old when I received it. . . .
Pray that God may send laborers into His
vineyard. Many children are dying without
baptism because the field is so large and we
are so few. I am well and happy. Natur-
ally I would prefer to remain with the In-
dians; but I know that what is done from
obedience, is more pleasing to God and more
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 159
profitable to us than what we do because
we Hke it; and, although I am in no way
suitable for the task that has been put upon
me, I have good reason to hope that He,
who sends me to this work, will supply what
is wanting in His poor servant.
Wishing you a very happy year, I remain,
Your affectionate Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
The year 1896 found the hopeful Mission-
ary in the new field of labor at Forty Mile
Post. The following letters give us some
idea of his life and work :
Forty Mile, N. W. T.,
Feb. 9th, 1896.
Dear Brother:
I hope this will prove a pleasant surprise,
coming, as it will, at a time when you are
not looking for letters from these parts.
About this time every year, some men go
from here to the States by way of Juneau,
having six hundred miles to make with
sleigh and dogs. I do not know what kind
of weather you are enjoying this evening,
but I would not be surprised if we were 100
degrees colder than it is with you. As I
am writing, it is 64 degrees below zero, and
last month it was 70 degrees below for ten
160 An American Missionary
days on a stretch. You see, however, that
my ink is not frozen; and, in fact, my log-
cabin is quite comfortable. We are in the
midst of winter, but the short dark days are
passed, and we begin to feel the joy of spring,
for it does one good to see the sun after it has
been out of sight for a month, as it happens
here during the period of shortest days.
At such times we have scarcely four hours
of light, but now we have ten hours of day-
light with six of sunshine. The days
lengthen very rapidly, and by the end of
March we shall not need lamps any more.
I am with the whites this year, for this is
a mining-camp ; everybody looking for gold,
some finding it, and some getting nothing,
a few becoming rich, but the greater number
only making a living, and all working very,
very hard. You would be astonished to see
the amount of hard work that men do here
in the hope of finding gold. They burn holes
like wells through the ice and the frozen
ground, some of them as much as thirty feet
deep. To sink these holes they have to cut
large quantities of wood, make a big fire
every evening, and next morning clean out
all that is thawed. You can imagine what
work they have; and yet, very often, after
sinking these holes, they find nothing. O
if men would only work for the kingdom of
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 161
heaven with a little of that wonderful energy,
how many saints we would have !
All my flock are not here at the Post; some
are scattered on the different creeks within
a range of a hundred miles; so that I have as
much travelHng as I had when I was with
the Indians. I was away, from January 8th
to February 4th, visiting the miners along
Forty Mile Creek.* I had some hard work
and was delayed by the severe cold, but I
was pleased with the result of my visit. All
received me well, Protestants as well as
Catholics, and I often had an opportunity
of explaining Catholic doctrine to those who
had never heard a true statement of our
faith. I expect to be on the road most of
March and April visiting the other creeks
where the men are working.
When at home, and generally even when
travelling, I am very comfortable. Still, we
have no Pullman cars, and when the snow
blows over the trail, it is a little like hard
work to go with sleigh and dogs. Here at
Forty Mile, I have two log-cabins under one
roof, one for our Lord and the other for His
poor servant. I am all alone, but it is a
happy solitude, for my room opens into the
chapel where I keep the Blessed Sacrament,
and I can enjoy His company as often as I
wish ; so, though all alone, I am never alone.
* See map.
162 An American Missionary
I made an altar nearly the same as the one
at the Sacred Heart Mission, and a good lady
gave me a nice carpet for the sanctuary,
which makes the chapel look passing well
for these parts. I am well and happy, as I
ought to be, seeing how good God has been
to me calling me to His sweet service. God
bless you!
Under the same date, he writes to another:
" We did not see the sun from the 8th of
December to the 4th of January; but that
is on account of the mountains which sur-
round us on all sides. During those four
weeks, the sun never rose high enough to
be seen above the mountains; but already,
the days are twice as long as they were at
Christmas.
''As you know, I am with the whites this
year, and therefore am enjoying some of the
comforts of civilization. For, even in this
last corner of the earth, there are some nice,
respectable people, and some good Catho-
lics among them. A great part of the
miners seem to be men who have been run-
ning away from civilization as it advanced
westward in the States, until now they have
no farther to go, and so have to stop here.
I am told there is one man, who although
born in the States, has never seen a railroad,
because he kept moving ahead of the rail-
roads until he got here.
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 163
"I have had the consolation of bringing a
good many back to their duties; but there
are many more who call themselves Catho-
lics, yet practice nothing of what their holy
faith requires of them ; and a greater number
who have lost their faith entirely. Pray for
them that they may not die in so wretched
a state. One of the last mentioned class
committed suicide last fall, a few days after
I had been urging him to come to Mass and
to make his confession. . . .
"Some come to Mass every morning, and I
try to have as many communions as possi-
ble on the first Friday of each month, that
the Sacred Heart may have some glory, even
in this frozen region.'^
To his youngest brother he writes : " It is
life in the Far West, and I think a little dif-
ferent from the ordinary 'Far West' of the
novels; although we have Indians, bears,
wolves, moose, deer, etc., all around us; and,
as a rule, log-cabins for houses. Some of
these, however, really deserve the name of
houses, as they are two or three stories high;
while even some one-story cabins are as
comfortable as one could wish, and it is hard
to realize that one is in a log-cabin, when it
is papered and furnished with carpets, lace
curtains, pictures, etc. There are a few of
that kind, but they are the exception, and are
found only where there are white ladies, the
164 An American Missionary
ordinary miner's cabin being a rather rough
affair but generally comfortable.
''I have two cabins, or rather, one with two
sections, each about fourteen feet square.
One serves for chapel and the other for
house. The latter is divided by a partition
into two rooms, one of which is bedroom,
kitchen, and dining-room, and the other, sit-
ting-room and reception-room. I keep the
Blessed Sacrament in the chapel, which has
a door opening into my sitting-room; so you
see how happy I am living under the same
roof and, I might say, all alone with our
dear Lord, night and day.
'' It is close on 60° below zero this evening,
but I am comfortable. We are having a very
cold winter but a fine one. I was travelling
all last month, and several times I had to lie
over because it was dangerous to be out. I
remained in one place from the 19th to the
29th, as the quicksilver remained frozen
during all that time, which means that it
was at least 40 "" below; and most of the time
it was in the neighborhood of 70° below.
''There are many poor men here who
have only the clothing they brought from
the States, and who cannot afford to buy
more. I gave the coat you sent me to one
who needed it very much : I never used it in
winter, as it was too light, and I have a fur
coat which is much better for the severe
-:j?.'
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 165
weather, but it was very useful in the spring
and fall, and even in summer. I would be
thankful for another of the same kind; but
I shall not suffer for want of it."
Two days later, he writes to one of his
sisters, a religious, who had had some expe-
rience in the Rocky Mountain region: —
Forty Mile, N. W. T.
Feb. nth, 1896.
You may have a better idea than the oth-
ers, what a western mining-camp is like ; but
I suspect that an Alaskan mining-camp is
different from what you have seen. There
are only about one hundred and fifty people
living here now; but there are about five
hundred in the neighborhood, who have to
come here for their provisions. There are
two trading companies with large stores, a
hardware store, a barber-shop, and a number
of saloons. The English Government has a
post with twenty soldiers or police, customs
collectors, etc. The officers have their fam-
ilies with them and are very nice people.
They all belong to the Church of England,
but are very kind to me, and have invited
me to dinner several times. The gentleman
who keeps the hardware store is a good
Catholic. He and his wife come to Mass
every morning Last week, they gave
me a nice carpet for the sanctuary. . . .
166 An American Missionary
On Jan. 8th I started to visit the miners
living on Forty Mile Creek. I had a sleigh
and only one dog, for dogs are scarce here
and sell for fifty to seventy-five dollars
apiece. The first day, I made twenty-five
miles and stopped at night with an old man
who makes a good living by cultivating po-
tatoes and turnips, which he sells like hot
cakes to the miners, for vegetables are
scarce. He is not a Catholic.
After leaving his place I found a cabin
about every five miles, and the inmates all
Catholics; so I stayed one night at each
house, and said Mass every day. Having
travelled thus for four or five days, I came
to a stretch of about forty miles, through-
out which there were no more inhabited
cabins ; but there were two vacant ones, with
stoves in them, used by those who make a
business of hauling provisions for the min-
ers.
About two o'clock on the i6th of January,
I started in company with one of those team-
sters to go to the first of the vacant cabins,
distant only about six or seven miles from
where we were. I do not know just how
cold it was; but the quicksilver was frozen,
so it was at least forty below zero. I had
never been over that road, but the teamster
told me to go ahead, as I could go faster
than he could with his heavy load, and so
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 167
would get more quickly out of the cold. I
did so, and all went well for about three
miles, when I came to a place where the
water had overflowed the ice. Although
the surface was frozen, the new ice was not
strong enough to bear the sleigh; it broke,
and I had to walk in the water, almost up to
my knees, for about two hundred yards ; and,
as I was not prepared to find water, my boots
were not suitable and my feet got wet. I did
not know how far I was from the cabin, but
thought it was not far; so I pushed on, try-
ing to keep my feet from freezing by walk-
ing as fast as I could. But the sleigh was
made much heavier by the ice that formed on
it and the snow that stuck to it after it had
passed through the water; so I could not go
as fast as I ought to have gone, and I
thought I would never get to the cabin.
About two hours after I got my feet wet, I
felt so tired that I was about to stop, wrap
myself in my blanket, and wait for the team-
ster who was behind me; for it was so dark
that I could not see well, and I was afraid
that I might have passed the cabin without
knowing it. But, just when I was about to
stop, my dog took a sudden start; so I
thought perhaps he saw the cabin ; and, sure
enough, in a few minutes we came to it.
It was on a high bank, which I had some
difficulty to climb. When I got to it, I found
168 An American Missionary
a log-cabin with no floor, no window, and no
hinges to the door; but there was a stove,
and at once I tried to start a fire, after mak-
ing some shavings with my knife. The
wood was so cold I could not succeed with
matches, and I had to go back to the sleigh
to get a piece of candle; but my gloves also
had gotten wet, in coming through the
water, and when I took them off to make the
fire, they froze so hard that I could not get
them on again, and I had to go down and
get up the bank without using my hands,
which was not easy, especially the coming
up.
I did not forget that it was the thir-
tieth anniversary of mother's death, and I
thought that it might be God's will to take
me on the same day. But, with some diffi-
culty, I got up again, crawling and using my
elbows instead of my hands; and, with the
help of the candle, I soon got a fire started.
As soon as I started to thaw the ice off my
boots, I felt a pain shoot through my right
foot, so I knew that it must be frozen. At
once I went out and filled a box, that I had
found in the cabin, with snow, then took off
my boot and found that all the front part of
my right foot was frozen as hard as a stone.
... I could not make a mark in it with my
thumb nail. So, I had to go away from the
fire and rub the foot with that awfully cold
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 169
snow, which is more like ground glass than
anything else, until I got the blood back to
the surface, which took at least half an hour.
After that I held my foot to the red-hot
stove for about one hour before it was com-
pletely thawed out. With such treatment,
no harm follows from the freezing; but if
you go into a warm room, or put the frozen
part to the fire before rubbing with snow till
it becomes red, it will decay at once and you
cannot save it. It is the first time I have
been frozen; but I have doctored others, and
I knew what was necessary, and so, thank
God, I escaped.
Three days later I got to the end of my
journey, about one hundred miles from here.
I was just in time, for that very evening the
most severe spell we have had began, and
for ten days the temperature remained be-
tween sixty and seventy below zero. I
stopped with an Irishman and his wife and
was very comfortable. I said Mass every
day and had six or seven present each time,
for there were other Catholics living nearby;
and six received Holy Communion.
As soon as the quicksilver thawed, which
showed that it was less than forty below
zero, I started to return, stopping to see
some people that I did not see on my way up.
It took me seven days to come back : in some
places it was very hard work as the wind
170 An American Missionary
had drifted the snow and covered the trail,
making it difficult to push the sleigh, and
even to walk. But I was well pleased with
my trip; and it is a great consolation to be
able to do some little for the glory of the
Sacred Heart, by leading these sheep to
Him, even though it cost some labor and
suffering. As long as I can thus do some
good, and have the Blessed Sacrament, I
have all I desire.
So you see I am happy. Pray for me that
I may always remain faithful to the great
grace of my vocation. How great is our
debt of gratitude to Almighty God for His
goodness in calling us to the religious life.
The older I get, the better I realize the great-
ness of this favor, and the obligation we are
under of doing all we can for the glory of
our Benefactor. I am very well and feel as
young as I did when you last saw me; but,
no doubt, time is doing its work on all of us,
and so we may hope soon to receive the
reward of our poor labors. God bless you
and all your good Sisters in religion!
Your affectionate Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
The incident related in the above letter
was one of the most trying in Father Judge's
missionary life. We can imagine what were
his feelings during those weary hours that
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 171
passed while he trudged on witli feet be-
numbed behind the slow-moving sleigh,
alone, almost in the dark, uncertain of the
way, and threatened with fatal freezing. No
doubt his prayers were more than ever
earnest, and his confidence in God unshaken;
and yet the accumulated miseries of the situ-
ation must have been a sore trial for even his
cheerful, generous spirit.
Here we see what the missionary spirit
enables a priest to do for God and the souls
of men; and we realize also that although
God is ready to aid His servant, yet He ex-
pects him to do, on his part, all that he can.
In the summer of 1896 Father Judge made
his usual annual visit to Koserefsky and St.
Michael. From the following letters we
learn something of the events of that trip
down the Yukon, and of his work : —
Holy Cross Mission, Alaska,
Dear Sister: Sept. 8th, 1896.
I feel ashamed when you exag-
gerate so much the little I have to suffer here
for our dear Lord. I mean the bodily suffer-
ings ; for I am sure that, if as great, they are
not greater than those you have passed
through.
Of course we have our cross here, the
same cross that all Religious are apt to have.
172 An American Missionary
and that makes the religious life so meri-
torious; but, as long as I have so many holy
souls praying for me, I hope to be able to
bear it.
I left Forty Mile on the last day of May; I
have been to the coast attending to the sup-
plies for the coming year, and I arrived here
only a few days ago. During all this time,
although I seldom missed Mass, I have not
had the Blessed Sacrament; for I was trav-
elling half the time, and at St. Michael we
have no chapel. I am now waiting for the
steamer to take me to Circle City, where I
am to spend the coming winter.
Circle City, so named because it is near
the Arctic Circle, is a large mining-camp,
about two hundred miles this side of Forty
Mile. I have to go first to Forty Mile to get
what things I left there, and bring them to
my new Mission, and begin again. This
constant moving from place to place is hard
to human nature, but it is what a Jesuit has
to be ready for. I hope to have things in
better condition this year than last. I have
received a small church-bell and an organ,
both of which I felt the want of very much at
Forty Mile.
There are several Catholic ladies at Circle
City, so I may hope for some assistance in
keeping the church nice. . . .
It would have made you happy to see me
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 173
when I opened the boxes you sent; I was
very happy to see so many things for the
altar. I had no altar-laces last year, but
now I am rich.
The breaking of the ice at Forty Mile, this
year, was a grand sight. It happened on the
17th of May, and on the 31st I started to
come down on a little steamer called the
Beaver.
We arrived at Holy Cross Mission on the
6th of June. As we expected to find at St.
Michael a new boiler for our steamer, we
took out the old one; and, with two Brothers
and some Indians, I started to drift the boat
down to St. Michael, which is four hundred
miles from Holy Cross. If we had had good
weather, it would not have been so very diffi-
cult a task; but the weather was very stormy
nearly the whole time, so that we were eigh-
teen days on the way, instead of being about
ten, as I had hoped. It was hard work, and
many times we were in great danger; so
much so, that I made a vow to say five
Masses and fast on five Fridays in honor of
the Sacred Heart, if we got down safely. I
need hardly tell you that my confidence was
not in vain; all ended well, and we arrived
safely at St. Michael on the 4th of July.
These summer months spent, in great
part, in going to the coast for supplies, are
generally troublesome and bring more dis-
174 An American Missionary
tractions than all the rest of the year. I
expect that there will be at least a thousand
white people at Circle City this winter, and
I know there will be many Catholics among
them ; so, I shall very likely have a pleasant
winter, and with the help of your good pray-
ers, shall be able to do something for the
greater glory of God. I am looking every
day for the steamer that is to take me up.
It is getting very late in the year, and there
is some danger of the water being too low
for the boat to pass some shallow places. If
I can arrange things as I hope to when I get
up to Circle City, I shall write to the Sisters
of Providence to come next spring to open
a hospital there. They are anxious to come,
and are only waiting for the word. . . .
May God bless you and all your good Sis-
ters in religion for your great goodness to
™^' Wm. H. Judge, S.J.
A few days later, in writing to another of
his sisters, who had celebrated the Silver
Jubilee of her religious profession, he mani-
fests his grateful appreciation of the grace
of a religious vocation.
Holy Cross Mission, Alaska,
Dear Sister: Sept. I2th, 1896.
Among all the blessings that have glad-
dened my heart and spread sunshine over
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 175
my life, there is none that I prize more
highly, or for which I am more grateful to
God, than the rehgious vocation of my sis-
ters. And with good reason do I feel thus;
for I cannot fail to see how many blessings
your prayers and those of your Communi-
ties, have brought down upon the family,
and on myself in particular. Besides, my
great love for you would not be satisfied to
see you have any other spouse than the Di-
vine Lamb Himself. On that account, as
long as our ^'Httle lamb'' was still exposed
to the dangers of the world, I never ceased
to implore for her the health necessary to
follow what I was convinced was her voca-
tion; and I cannot tell you the joy that filled
my heart when, after so long a delay, she too,
was safe within the cloister. The great
grace of perseverance with which God, in
His goodness, has blessed you all, is no less
a subject of joy and gratitude, than was your
first call. Therefore, although late, I con-
gratulate you most heartily on the happy
event of your Jubilee, and I hope you have
gained from its celebration new strength to
push on in the good fight, striving to become
ever more and more pleasing in the sight of
your heavenly Spouse, who has chosen you
out of the world, that He may have your
heart all to Himself and may adorn it with
His choicest gifts.
176 An American Missionary
Each year when your letters come to glad-
den my heart and fill it with new courage, I
realize anew the greatness of the happiness
I enjoy in having three sisters in rehgion.
God grant that helped by one another's
prayers and examples, we may all persevere
to the end, fulfilling perfectly the holy will
of God in all things. . . .
Now you must not think that our life up
here is so terrible; for, although the winter is
cold, we are prepared for it, and do not suffer
much from that source; and, as for provi-
sions, we are much better off than many
other Missions. We have our crosses and
heavy crosses too, but they are such as God
often sends even in more civilized places.
Bodily sufferings cannot be compared to
mental sufferings ; and, as 'A Kempis tells us,
sometimes God sends us the cross, and some-
times our neighbor will afflict us, and often
we are a cross to ourselves. Crosses of this
kind you no doubt share with us, although it
is true that small Missions are more exposed
to them, than more regular communities. I
do not ask you to pray that we may have no
crosses, but I do ask you to pray in a special
manner this year for this poor Mission; for
very great dangers threaten us, which can be
prevented only by a special protection of
Almighty God.
The trip from Holy Cross to St. Michael,
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 177
on our own boat, was very hard and dan-
gerous this year, and I felt ten years older
when I got back a week ago ; but now, after
a week of quiet and rest, communing with
loved ones by letter, reading, and writing, I
begin to feel young again. Age begins to
show its effects at times, especially in my
back, but only at times, and not sufficiently
to prevent me from performing all my duties.
Generally I am as active and lively as ever.
I am sorry that Father Barnum told you
I was so thin; for it caused Sister M. to make
two beautiful surplices, that she had made
for me, so small that I cannot wear them.
When I read your letter I had to look in the
glass to see if I were really so thin, for I was
not aware of it so you see there is a
mistake somewhere
I sometimes feel that I would like to have
some time to prepare myself for death ; but,
when I remember that our Lord died on the
cross, I see it is better to stand in the fight to
the end, trusting to Him to supply for all
defects.
Good by! May God bless you and your
good Sisters. Your loving Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
The next letter gives the first news of an
event, which was to prove of supreme impor-
tance to him — the discovery of the Klon-
178 An American Missionary
dike gold-fields. This letter announced the
fact of the discovery some months before it
was generally known.
Forty Mile N. W. T.
Dear Brother: ^ec. 27th, 1896.
I am sorry that I left you without a letter
the past summer. I was hoping to get yours
before it would be too late, but it did not
reach me until Oct. 9th, because it was put
into the mail-bag for Forty Mile, and I was
down the river all the summer, returning
here Oct. 6th. But I assure you it was no
less welcome for being late. It came like a
ray of Easter sunshine, just when old Winter
was spreading his mantle over us for another
eight months. I thank you very much for
all the family news, the good wishes, prayers
and kind thoughts, which it brought me;
all which I shall do my best to repay through
the Sacred Heart.
I have not seen Father Barnum since his
return, although he staid in my cabin here
two weeks, while I was away; but we passed
on the lower river without seeing each other.
You may be surprised to see this dated
from Forty Mile, after my telHng you and all
the others that I would be in Circle City this
winter. The proverb, " Man proposes, but
God disposes," is often verified here. In
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 179
fact, I was sent to Circle City, and I actually
shipped to that place all my supplies for the
year, together with all the presents I had
received, and an organ and a church-bell;
and I came here only to get my church-
goods, etc., when by an unusually early clos-
ing of the river, I was forced to remain for
the winter.
It was very providential; for, after I left
here in the summer, gold was found on a
creek fifty miles up the river, and later dis-
coveries show the region to be one of the
richest and most extensive gold-fields ever
known. All that they have had here so far
is nothing compared to it. Each man is
allowed five hundred feet, and some of the
claims are so rich that the owner of one may
take five or six millions out of that little piece
of ground, some already having had as high
as a hundred dollars in a shovelful of dirt.
The excitement is very high here now; and
when the news gets outside, no doubt there
will be a great rush for these parts.
They have started on the Yukon, at the
mouth of the principal creek, a town to be
called Dawson City, and lots there 50x100
feet are selling as high as a thousand dollars
already.
I have secured three acres as a site for a
church and a hospital, and I expect Sisters to
come up next spring to take charge of the
180 An American Missionary
latter. The new settlement will be by far
the largest place on the Yukon, and I believe
it will be a place of consequence for a good
many years, as the district where the gold is
being found is very large. Men are coming
from Circle City every day, and it is likely
there will be a general stampede from that
place in the spring.
I was away for a month before Christmas,
visiting the miners on two of the old creeks.
I have not been to the new diggings yet, but
I expect to go there in a month or so when
the days get longer. We are having a mild
winter this year, at least so far, the coldest
having been forty-two below zero, against
sixty or seventy last year.
We had one death a few weeks ago, that of
a Canadian, who came last spring looking
for gold. Happily I was here to give him the
sacraments and say Mass for his soul. God
grant that he may have found the one thing
necessary, which is above all the gold and
treasures of this world.
I am enjoying my two cabins again this
year. My little chapel is very devotional in
its Christmas garb. On Christmas day I
began my Masses at 7 o'clock, when I said
two, and the third I said at 10.30, which was
followed by Benediction of the Blessed Sac-
rament. I thought of you all on that day,
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 181
and more than once imagined what you were
doing, making allowance for the difference
of time.
The Epiphany, Jan. 6th.
Before I forget it, I mtist wish you a happy
New Year! How fast the years are sHpping
by! I can remember the change from '56 to
'57, and now we come to '97. You say you
are afraid the young folks will begin to class
you among the old people: you need not be
surprised if they do, for here they call me
'' the old man.''
To-day we saw the sun for the first time
since the 8th of December. It goes on a pic-
nic every winter about that time, and does
not show its face for some thirty days. I
assure you it is a real pleasure to see it peep
over the mountains when it returns ....
I am as well and happy as ever, although
at times I begin to find that old bones will
not stand as much as young ones. In the
union of the Sacred Heart, I am as ever.
Your affectionate Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
About a month later, Feb. ist, he wrote:
''In this little world of ours — for we are as
much alone as if we were on a globe of our
own — there is very little news to speak or
write about. The only thing spoken of here
182 An American Missionary
is the ^ prospects ^ from the different creeks
in the new gold district, which promises to
surpass anything ever known before. One
would think that gold is the one thing neces-
sary for happiness in time and eternity, to
see the way in which men seek it even in
these frozen regions, and how they are
ready to sacrifice soul and body to get it.
O, how terrible will be their disappointment
at the hour of death, when they will realize
the vanity of all they have loved so much.
Experience shows that most of those who
make money in mining, lose it as fast as they
make it. However, I am glad to be able to
say that there are here a good number of
sober, industrious Catholics, who, I hope,
will make a good use of all they get. I am
preparing to build a church, a house, and a
hospital at Dawson City, which will be the
town of the new mining region.''
So, during the winter of '96-'97, the pastor
of Forty Mile Post while attending to his
people at home or travelling along the neigh-
boring creeks, listened to the stories of the
wonderful discovery of gold in the Klondike
region. He foresaw the stampede that would
take place from the older mining centres, and
the influx from the States, when the news
would have found its way to the outer world.
He did not covet the precious metal for
which, as he said, some men were willing to
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 183
risk soul and body; but he knew that the
men around him, and many more would go
to the new fields, and if so, he should go with
them: where the flock is, there should the
shepherd be.
Most of his people, no doubt, left Forty
Mile before he did; but he must have early
set himself to study out the problems of the
new situation, while waiting for the days to
get longer.
Meanwhile, what was going on up on the
Klondike creek? The question is best an-
swered by the following quotations from
the special sixteen page Klondike number
of the New York World of August 22nd,
1897:—'' On Sept 6th (1896) Surveyor Ogil-
vie wrote: ' It is only two weeks since it (the
Klondike discovery) was known, and already
about two hundred claims have been staked
on it. The Klondike and its branches are
good for from three to four hundred
claims.' "
" On November 6th, Mr. Ogilvie wrote :
' One man showed me $22.75 that he took out
in a few hours on Hunker Creek ' . . . .On
this date Mr. Ogilvie thought he saw 1000
claims in sight, which would require 3,000
men to work them, and that would bring a
population of 10,000 souls in ' a year or two.'
He had to better this estimate later on."
" Naturally the new region, draining four
184 An American Missionary
or five old ones of their inhabitants, required
a town, and one was built almost like magic.
Joseph Ladue says : ' Dawson City is now the
most important point in the new mining re-
gion. Its population in June 1897 exceeded
4,000 .... I commenced erecting the first
house in that region on September ist, 1896.
Within six months from that date there were
over five hundred houses erected, which in-
clude stores, supply-stations, hotels, restau-
rants, saloons, and residences.' '^
At length, about the middle of March,
1897, Father Judge packed his sled and with
the aid of only one dog, started for the Klon-
dike. There were fifty miles to make, most
likely upon the still frozen Yukon, and the
trip must have taken two days. This first
visit of the Missionary to the scene of his fu-
ture labors, was thus touchingly depicted in
the '' Klondike Nugget," two days after his
death: "The stampeders from Forty Mile
to the Klondike in the winter of '96-'97 re-
member overtaking a solitary and feeble old
man with a single sled-rope over his shoul-
ders, and a single dog helping the load along.
This was the Father hastening to a field
where he was conscious his ministering serv-
ices were most required. Arrived in Dawson
he lost no time in securing the ground on
which St. Mary's hospital now stands.
Spreading his tents, he found that his serv-
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 185
ices, as one experienced in Arctic maladies
and frostbites, were instantly in demand.
He grasped the situation at once, saw that
a hugh task was laid out for him here, and
hastened back to Forty Mile for more med-
icine, more supplies, and the necessary equip-
ment for the care of the sick.''
Father Judge spent about one month at
Dawson, started men to work getting logs
from the upper river, and cleared the ground
for St. Mary's Hospital, before returning for
supplies to Forty Mile. From the latter
place he wrote : —
Forty Mile, N. W. T.
Dear Brother: ^^y ^^^^ ^^97-
On Palm Sunday I received your Christ-
mas Card, and yesterday the letter that you
began January loth. . . . You see I re-
ceived it on our reunion day, which made it
all the more enjoyable; and on the first day
of our Blessed Mother's month. . . . May
God continue to bless you all, as I am sure
He will, if you remain faithful to Him. O,
how foolish are all those who neglect their
religious duties, which alone can bring them
that peace and happiness for which the
heart of man is ever yearning ! If they would
only listen to the voice of reason, they would
soon perceive that there is nothing in this
186 An American Missionary
world capable of satisfying the craving of
their hearts for knowledge and happiness;
and so they would be led to seek them above,
knowing that that craving was not given
never to be satisfied.
From the middle of March to Easter
(April i8th) I was up at the new gold-dig-
gings. There are two creeks very rich-.
Some have sold their claims as high as fifty
thousand dollars apiece, that is five hundred
feet on the creek, which is what each man
is allowed to take. I myself saw one hundred
and twenty-three dollars' worth of gold in
one shovelful of dirt. Some expect to take
out milHons, if it holds out as it promises.
But there are far more men here than there
are good claims for. Those who are working
for wages have been making fifteen dollars
a day all the winter, which is not bad for hard
times; but if, as we suppose, a great many
men come in when the river opens, wages
will very likely fall to ten dollars and may-
be to six, as they were before the deposits on
these creeks were found.
I shall not try to settle for you the geo-
graphical position of Circle City, as there is
not much left of it since the news of the
Klondike diggings reached there. Dawson
City is the centre of attraction now, and
probably will be for some years. . . .
I have secured some ground there, and I
Forty Mile Post and Circle City 187
am preparing to build a church and a hospi-
tal, having sent for the Sisters to manage the
latter. I shall go there to see to the building
as soon as the river opens, which will be in
two or three weeks. I do not expect to go
down to the coast this summer, so your
spring letters will not reach me as soon as
usual, and they may not be answered so soon.
Although I am constantly going farther
away from you, that is if we count from the
sea; in reality I am coming nearer and
nearer, not only in point of miles, but espe-
cially as regards communication. Hereafter,
direct all your letters to Dawson City, N.
W.T.
When you speak of the happiness you ex-
perience in being able to attend services at
St. Ignatius', I envy you a little; for, I assure
you, there are no days in my life that I can
look back upon with more real pleasure, than
I do upon those which I spent around that
dear spot. It is a great sacrifice for me to
be deprived of all the surroundings that lend
solemnity to the Divine Service in civiliza-
tion; but, it is a great consolation to have our
dear Lord Himself so near to me at all times ;
and it gives me pleasure to honor Him here,
where there are so few who know Him, or
care for Him in the sweet Sacrament of His
love.
Give my kindest regards to all the family
188 An American Missionary
and tell them that even if I do not write to
them or mention them in my letters, at least
they all find a place in my heart, and are
never forgotten in my Holy Sacrifices and
prayers.
In the union of the Sacred Heart,
Your affectionate Brother,
Wm. H. Judge, S. J.
CHAPTER VIL
THE RUSH TO THE KLONDIKE.
"Gold, gold, gold, gold!
Bright and yellow and hard and cold.
Molten, graven, hammered and rolled;
Heavy to get and light to hold;
Hoarded, bartered, bought and sold;
Spurned by the young, but hugged by the old
To the very verge of the churchyard mold;
Price of many a crime untold;
Gold, gold, gold, gold!
Good or bad a thousandfold!" — Hood.
IT would be beyond the scope of this work
to give a full account of the Klondike
gold-fields, and of the rush that followed
the unearthing of their rich deposits. How-
ever, for the sake of those who may be igno-
rant of the facts and to throw light on the
work of the Missionary in Dawson, we must
say something of the general excitement oc-
casioned by the announcement of the dis-
covery.
Although the new gold-fields were discov-
ered in August, 1896, such were the difficul-
ties of communication between that icy re-
gion and the outer world, that it was not
until the early summer of 1897, that the
189
190 An American Missionary
newspapers startled the United States by the
story of the fabulous richness of the Klon-
dike. By the end of July, however, the whole
country was in a ferment of excitement.
From New York to San Francisco, the Klon-
dike and how to get there, was all that men
talked of. The papers teemed with facts, and
figures, and illustrations, that stimulated the
ardor of all who had the courage and the
strength to make the venture. We give some
specimens of these announcements: —
" Seattle, Wash. July 19th. The amount
of treasure brought down from the famed
Klondike by the steamer Portland, is now
placed at $1,500,000, and there is good reason
to believe that the sum was nearer $2,000,-
000."
'' Helena, Montana, July 19th. Over
$200,000 in gold from the Alaska diggings
was received at the United States Assay
Office to-day." From the New York World :
" The U. S. Mint authorities estimate the
amount of gold that has so far reached this
country from the Klondike, at about four
tons, worth something over $2,000,000.''
The Alaska Mining Record of Juneau,
quoted by the World, said: ''The excite-
ment is spreading, and by the time this is be-
fore our readers, the great army of gold-seek-
ers will have fairly started northward
There remains scarcely a man in Juneau or
The Rush to the Klondike 191
its neighboring towns or mining-camps, not
tied down by circumstances, but will start
within the next month, or in the early spring.
Not only has the fever reached the ambitious
young men, but the sturdy old-timer, who
packed his blankets to the Frazer and the
Cassair country .... is himself as eager
for the hardships and wealth of the Yukon.''
" New York, July 19th. New York has
been touched by the Alaskan gold fever.
The past twenty-four hours have seen come
to the front 2,000 Argonauts, who will be on
the way to the Klondike region as soon as
arrangements can be made for transporta-
tion. Some notion of how the craze is
spreading may be had from the fact that
within forty-eight hours, an advertisement
calling for those who desired to join an expe-
dition to Alaska and who had from $500 to
$2,000 to invest, was answered by more than
twelve hundred applicants."
" San Diego, California, July 19th. An in-
teresting letter, telling of the recent trip of
the steamer Excelsior, to Alaska, has been
written by Captain J. F. Higgins, of the
steamer, to a friend in this city. He says:
' As each claim is five hundred feet along the
creek-bed, there is half a million to the claim.
. . . . One of our passengers, who is taking
$1,000 with him, has worked 100 feet of his
ground, and he refused $200,000 for the re-
192 An American Missionary
mainder. He confidently expects to clean up
$400,000 and more. He has in a bottle $212
taken from one pan of dirt. His pay-dirt,
while being washed, averaged $250 an hour
to each man shoveling in. Two others of
our miners who worked their own claims,
cleaned up $6,000 from the day's washings."
Such statements caused an excitement
akin to that which reigned at the time of the
discovery of the California gold-fields, in
the summer of 1848. Of that event an his-
torian says: ''An excitement which tran-
scends description seized on the inhabitants;
forsaking their farms and shutting up their
houses, they flock to the fortunate spot. The
news soon reached the Atlantic States. Hun-
dreds at once set out for the land of gold;
and not from the United States only, but
from all parts of Europe, and even from far
distant China, did the tide of immigration
flow, men of every grade in society giving
themselves up to its current."*
This state of the pubHc mind in 1848
would likely have had its parallel in 1898,
had not a counter-irritant been applied in
the shape of the war with Spain. That ab-
sorbing topic called off, to a great extent,
the attention of the people of the United
States from the glittering prospects held out
by the Klondike placers. Had it not been for
*Hist. of U. S., Quackenbos, p. 443.
The Rush to the Klondike 193
this check, there would doubtless have been
a tremendous and disastrous rush to the Yu-
kon.
As it was, the more ardent and venture-
some of the gold-seekers determined to
start without delay, and a vanguard of one
hundred men left Seattle on July 19th, 1897.
But prudence is the better part of valor; and
mindful of this principle, the majority waited
for the spring of 1898; for winter travel over
the ice-clad mountains and snow-covered
trail between Dyea and Dawson was, at that
time, well-nigh impossible.
When spring came, there poured into
Juneau, Skagway, and Dyea, a constant
stream of adventurers, determined to reach
the wished-for goal by way of the Chilkoot
Pass and the rivers and lakes that lead to the
Yukon, a laborious journey of over five hun-
dred miles. Even at that season, the aspect
of the country was still that of mid-winter
in the latitude of Philadelphia or Baltimore.
The whole surface of the region was still a
magnificent expanse of white, except where
the rocky hills peered through the snowy
covering. The dark forms of the would-be
miners with their luggage stood out in sharp
contrast to the spotless background; so that
the long line of men, as they trudged in sin-
gle file along the trail or through the passes,
194 An American Missionary
looked at a distance like a train of creeping
blackness upon a white surface.
With heroic courage the eager army of
fortune-hunters pushed on, resolved to sur-
mount every obstacle that lay in their path.
On April 3rd about seventy persons per-
ished in a snow-slide. Nevertheless, every
day for three months, an unbroken line of
pack-laden men pursued the rugged trail.
Treading in one another^s footsteps the
hopeful gold-seekers pressed on; but when a
resting-place was reached, as at the summit
of the Chilkoot Pass, men and dogs, sleds
and packs, bags and bundles, were scattered
about in the snow and a scene of wintry con-
fusion resulted, that might remind one of
the flight of Napoleon's army from Mos-
cow. Many perished in the effort, but in
this and the following year, a sufficient num-
ber succeeded in reaching the site of Dawson
City, to make it ^' the greatest mining-camp
the world has even seen,'' and later, a city of
15,000 inhabitants.
The reader will be pleased to hear the
story of one of those pioneers, a friend of
Fr. Judge. " The party with whom I trav-
elled," writes C. H. Higgins, " left Buffalo,
N. Y., on February 8th, 1898, and arrived at
Tacoma, Washington, February 13th We
bought our outfits, and while thus engaged
we were startled by news of the blowing
The Rush to the Klondike 195
up of the U. S. steamer, Maine. This caused
great excitement, and many returned to go
to the war. We sailed from Tacoma on Feb-
ruary 23rd, arriving at Dyea, February 28th.
We were advised by many not to go on, but,
having bought outfits at considerable ex-
pense, about half the party took courage to
defy Chilkoot's heights and see the gold-
fields over which the entire world was
aroused. We stayed at Sheep Camp the
night of March 3rd, 1898, and on arriving at
the top of Chilkoot Pass we found a fierce
snowstorm in progress. The storm contin-
ued for two days. We slept in a tent on the
summit of the Pass during the nights of the
4th and 5th of March, started for Lake Lin-
deman on the morning of the 6th, and pulled
our goods on sleighs to a point about twenty-
five miles farther north, where we camped.
We cut down trees from which we whip-
sawed boards and made our boats, to be
ready to sail for Dawson when the ice of
lakes and rivers thawed. This opening of
navigation occurred on May 24th, 1898. We
had many exciting experiences on account
of sand-bars, and particularly at White
Horse Rapids. Several, whose boats struck
the rocks, were drowned. Many trying cir-
cumstances were met with : but we were tak-
ing these chances in order to obtain gold;
besides, we had the trials of others always
196 An American Missionary
present to encourage us in bearing our own.
How different was the case of our dear
Father Judge, who was nearly always alone !
" Let us hurry on to Dawson in order that
we may see the real hero of the Klondike.
We arrived in Dawson on June 13th, at 4
P. M., that is about 8 P. M. eastern time.
It was somewhat difficult to land, owing to
the swift current of the Yukon, supple-
mented here by the Klondike River. We
found along the river front a lot of houses
and cabins used as saloons, theatres, dance-
halls, restaurants, etc., and the river bank
was strewn with blankets and robes used as
bedding. Many slept on the bank of the
river until they could arrange to locate on
the hills back of Dawson, or on the creeks.
"About 9.30 P. M., having cleaned up
as well as possible, I set out for St. Mary's
Hospital, which I had no difficulty in finding.
Approaching from the rear, I saw seated
on a bed in the hallway, and saying his
rosary, a man whose hair was thin and grey,
and whose face was lined with care, but out
of whose eyes there seemed to issue a won-
derful light. He was in deep meditation,
and I had time to observe his clothes and
even his boots. The former were dark and
seedy, but clean, the latter were, to my sur-
prise, heavy boots with good sized nails, to
prevent them from wearing out quickly.
The Rush to the Klondike 197
After a few minutes he noticed me standing
outside, and cheerfully asked me in. He in-
quired my business, and informed me that
he would say Mass in a cabin at 6 A. M.
This was nine days after his church was
burned down.
'' Not having heard Mass for four months
I was hungry for it. Though our trials and
dangers caused us to lead good lives on the
trail, we needed something more, we needed
the ambassador of Christ, who had power to
say to us, ' Go in peace thy sins are forgiven
thee.' I was reminded of what the Follow-
ing of Christ says in regard to the Mass, that
if it were celebrated but at one place on
earth how anxious we would all be to be
present at it.
''Next morning, wanting to be in good
time for confession before Mass, I left the
boat at 5 A. M., — not having slept any, as
the sun merely hid behind the mountains
for a couple of hours — and reached the tem-
porary chapel ten minutes later. I waited
for two hours, and still no priest! I won-
dered, but my surprise was explained when
I asked a man what time it was and he an-
swered: 'Five fifteen.' Then the difference
of time between San Francisco and Dawson,
about two hours, occurred to me. I had
started three hours too early. It gave me
time for reflection. By this time many were
198 An American Missionary
about, mostly Protestants, and a priest,
whom I afterwards found to be Father Le-
febvre, had come out of the hospital, and
was reading his office, standing on a boulder.
This Father Lefebvre had come to Dawson
as if by a miracle a week after Father Judge's
church was burned, thus enabling him to
have Mass. All the vestments and sacred
vessels had been burned with the church.
After a short time the bell, saved from the
fire and fastened on a pole, rang out the An-
gelus. The good Father said it, and at ' The
Word was made flesh ' he reverently genu-
flected with hat in hand and head bowed.
The impression on the non-Catholic was
great, but to the Catholic, the Angelus bell
so far from civilization, and the confession
of faith by the priest were sublime. Many
shed tears of joy, because though far from
home and friends they were closer to God's
home, and though trials had been constant
in their journey, they had arrived in the har-
bor of the soul's peace.
'' In a moment appeared Father Judge
with cassock, but no biretta, it too having
been burned. He did not look like the man
I had met the night before; there was some
great difference. That difference was caused
by his cassock. His whole appearance
changed as soon as it was put on. That
morning he came stepping from stone to
The Rush to the Klondike 199
stone, his face illumined, and his movements
eager, as though some most pleasant event
were to come. And surely it was so — he was
about to offer up the Holy Sacrifice. Father
Judge heard our confessions and his instruc-
tions were very consoling to the penitents.
He vested for Mass and soon began it.
Every action was intensely devotional,
every syllable plainly spoken. His fervor
was that of a young priest saying his first
Mass, and it was always so, even to the end
of his life. You can well imagine it was an
impressive Mass, and a sincere Communion.
I do not think the sublime character of the
Mass was ever better impressed upon any
of us in the grand cathedrals of the States.
I attended Mass daily, and on Sunday, June
19th, the Feast of the Sacred Heart, our good
Father preached at High Mass on Jesus'
love. He always said he was no preacher,
and he could bear no mention of his good
sermons, but it is true that while he always
stood erect with hands folded, and made no
gestures, every word that fell from his lips
sank into his hearers' hearts.''
CHAPTER VIIL
DAWSON CITY.
" In this we have known the charity of God, because He
hath laid down His life for us; and we ought to lay down
our lives for the brethren." — / John, Hi, 16.
ABOUT the end of May, 1897, Father
Judge went to take up his residence per-
manently at Dawson, the growing center of
the Klondike region. Most likely he took
the first steamer that ascended the river
from Forty Mile after the breaking: up of the
ice. Thus he was able to transport most con-
veniently his little stock of furniture and
church goods, as well as any furnishings for
the projected hospital, that he might have
gathered together. On his arrival he found
an improvised town of some five hundred
houses or tents, with a population of about
four thousand.
This most northern of American cities lies
along the right bank of the Yukon, north of
the point where the Klondike creek empties
into the great river. The position seems well
chosen; for on the east and northeast the
town is sheltered by a noble mountain, be-
200
00
00
Dawson City 201
tween which and the river there is room for
a goodly city.
At the foot of this mountain, and not far
from the river, the Missionary located his
hospital and church.
During June, July, and August the pastor
occupied a large tent, in which he had four
berths ; so that he could lodge two workmen,
and, if need be, a guest. He arranged mat-
ters so as to be able to say Mass in the tent
before preparing breakfast for his men or
his guests : for, it seems that the spirit of the
Father Minister of former years still urged
him to cook for others, as he did at the little
picnics in the woods of Maryland.
We can hardly realize the magnitude of
the task of building a hospital, a church, and
residences, under the difficulties that beset
the builder on the banks of the Yukon in
1897. Logs had to be procured and rafted
down the river or drawn by dog-teams
to the site of the rising structures. Then
the thousand and one things needed in such
buildings had to be obtained or substitutes
invented. If hair and cotton could not be
had to fill the mattresses, dried grass or
herbs from the mountain-side or the river's
bank must take their place. If paper and
paint were not available, muslin and sizing
would, perhaps, do as well.
The claims of the sick were so urgent that
202 An American Missionary
the Missionary's first care was to complete
the hospital; and, despite many difficulties,
he was able to open it for the reception of
patients on August 20th.
This first building was of logs, the seams
being filled with earth and moss. It was fifty
feet by twenty, and two stories high with
slightly sloping roof. Windows four feet by
three, with rustic frames, admitted the light
into rooms nine feet high, the floors and
ceilings of which were finished alike in wood,
while the walls were lined with muslin sized
and coated with white lead. The furniture
consisted (later, at least,) of very simple lit-
tle bedsteads with mattresses stuffed with
dry herbage, plain wooden chairs, empty
boxes for washstands, some tables, a few
wardrobes, and many stoves.
Our imagination may fill up the details
of the priest's busy life during those summer
months. With some hundreds of souls to
care for, sick men to tend, workmen to di-
rect, and material to procure, he must have
felt that his desire to '' do some little for the
glory of the Sacred Heart " was being satis-
fied to the full.
As the work went on, he was cheered by
the thought that the Sisters of St. Ann would
come to take charge of the hospital; but he
was to have the merit of suffering a tempo-
rary disappointment in that regard. He tells
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