^Ao^ 
 
 % .^v^ 
 
INDUSTRIAL EDUCATION 
 
 OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION 
 
 IN THE 
 
 NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE 
 
 By J.° V.'Lynn 
 
 ^^o^ 
 
 __^ 
 
 FOR USE IN 
 PUBLIC PART-TIME AND FACTORY VESTIBULE SCHOOLS 
 
 ENGINEERING EXTENSION DEPARTMENT 
 
 IOWA STATE COLLEGE 
 
 AMES, IOWA 
 
1 LIBRARY Or O. ■ 
 
 I RECEIVED 
 
 SEP 201922 
 
 I DOCUrVtlZKTS c •- = 
 

 OUTLINES OF INSTRUCTION IN THE 
 NEEDLE-WORKING TRADE 
 
 Bv J. \ . Lvmi, Associate Professor \^)eati()iial Education 
 
 I. INTRODUCTION 
 
 Education is a four-fold i)rocess in preparation for full or complete 
 livinii'. To be adequately prepared requires that the individual shall 
 not he lacking- in any one of the four elements necessary. First of 
 all there must 1)e health. Such instruction as will promote physical 
 ^\•('^LiM"ill,^ is the foundation. Ujion this foundation is laid the ability 
 to earn a livelihood, so the second instructional process is prepara- 
 tion to do one's siiai-e of the productive work of the world. Third, 
 and perhaps the hu'ii'est in point of volume, are the social and civic 
 relationships, the ability to live amoiiu' one's fellows. Fourth and 
 last is the protitabh,' employment of leisui'e time. A well rounded 
 education therefore includes the i)hysical, vocational, social-civic, 
 and avocational elements. Each is required, and each should have 
 a controllin.u' puri)ose within its own ti^ld. Physical education is 
 concerned with ))hysi()ue and nothing else. Vocational education is 
 concerned with intelligent skilled production, and that alone. One 
 cannot usurp the i)lace of the others, but each is supreme in its 
 own field. 
 
 Having all this i]i mind, this study which lias been made of the 
 needle-Avorking trade has the vocational elenunit as its basis. While 
 recognizing the other three, it is not jiroposed to discuss them nor 
 to include them as factors in this i)rol)lem. The i)uri)ose of this 
 study may be stated as an attempt to provide instructional material 
 for use in schools where girls are anticipating entrance upon or have 
 already entered the needle-working trade. It is designed, moreover, 
 for a local situation, and can only serve suggestively under any 
 other circumstances. 
 
 The local situation was found at Dulmque, Io\ya, where the public 
 part-time school was faced with the problem of giving civic and 
 vocational instruction to girls now working for the H. B. Glover 
 Company, manufacturing an extended line of sleepingwear and 
 overalls. In the factory there is also a training organization for 
 assistance to ncAvly emi)ioyed girls. Mr. Harvey L. Freeland, State 
 Supei-visoi- of Tra(U> and Iiulustrial Education, suggested the benefit 
 which would come through a survey of the [)rol)lem along some 
 definite lines, and bi-ought the matter to the attention of those con- 
 cerned with vocational education at Iowa State College. The H. B. 
 Glover Company, directly interested in the part-time school, and 
 
in the prospect of improvino- its own training school, kindly offered 
 all its facilities for use in making tlie necessary analysis of the 
 industry. 
 
 Tlie survey was made witli the assistance of the part-time school 
 teachers and the factory instructors. Officials of the company in- 
 cluding foremen and forewomen were highly co-operative, making 
 availai)le all necessary information, and checking the work to ensure 
 its authenticity. Each department Avas visited and a skeleton draft 
 of the production organization, was made with the payroll jobs in 
 each department and the work jobs included in each payroll job. 
 It was necessary, however to make a more complete study of those 
 departments where girls are employed, and this was done pai'tly 
 through conferences with the factory instructors, and partly through 
 direct observation of processes. The conferences were necessary to 
 establish a point of view and create a general concept of the instruc- 
 tion given in making certain garments. When the conferences had 
 accomplished this they had served their purpose, and thereafter the 
 analysis of processes could be made more speedily and accurately 
 l)y direct observation of the girls at work on the garments. By 
 observation and questioning, a mass of information was obtained 
 regarding garment-making in four departments. Additional in- 
 formation was secured from foremen and forewomen, whicli lias 
 l)een arrangied as a part of tliis study under general or common 
 insti'uctional material. 
 
 While the direct purpose of the survey was to assist in the solution 
 of a local problem, it is felt that it can serve in a suggestive way to 
 other part-time school ott'icers having similar problems in other 
 industries. It will also be serviceable to heads of vestil)ule schools 
 in the needle trade elsewhere, and may suggest to plant instructors 
 of other industries a way out of some dift'iculties. 
 
 II. METHODS OF PREPARATORY TRAINING 
 
 There are two i)ossil)le agencies for training workers in the semi- 
 skilled employments. The public may provide for it in certain 
 cases where the community value is sufficiently apparent to receive 
 attention from the public school board. It is here that the part-time 
 school can serve as the particular agency in such training. If needle- 
 work is suft'iciently important in the community enterprise, it is 
 possible to provide special training for girls anticipating employ- 
 ment in garment factories. These girls may be employed in various 
 occupations, but have expressed a desire to learn power machine 
 operating in order to change to an occupation with greater earning 
 capacity. They may already be employed at junior clerical service 
 in a garment factory, and meantime be preparing themselves at part- 
 time school to master the operation of a machine sufficiently well to 
 enter one of the making departments. In either case it is a part-time 
 
preparatory class in power machine operatin<>-, and the public school 
 l)()ar(l would l)e serving' the interests of the community directly by 
 meeting' the vocational desires of these younj^' people. 
 
 Tlie second trainin<i' agency is what is called the factory vestibule 
 seliool. It presupposes no i)reparation in advance of employment 
 in some factory. The girl is hired to operate a sewing machine, and 
 must l)e prepared to do so. Many factories place these novices on 
 the ])roduction tloor and train them tliere. There are several im- 
 portant ditficulties in successfully carrying through such a process 
 of training. These may be itemized as follows : (a) learner is over- 
 awed by speed and volume of work seen all around; (b) others are 
 wholly engrossed with production so that the learner is very much 
 alone at a time when a personal interest and a common prol)lem is 
 most appreciated; (c) learners are so scattered that personal super- 
 vision by the instructor is made less effective; (d) if instruction is 
 a part of the forewoman's duty, the supervision is rendered still 
 less effective because of the duties incident to production. For these 
 and other reasons it is best to segregate learners in a training room 
 until they have aecpiired sntt'icieiit knowledge about the processes 
 and the iirm organization to take their place on the production floor 
 as a unit in the plant and with an interest common to those already 
 there. 
 
 In the series of Training Bulletins issued by The Training Service 
 of the Ignited States Department of Labor there are four devoted to 
 the garment trade. All of these have a very clear and adequate 
 description of the vestibule school, so that it is not necessary to 
 enlarge this ]ioint. The purpose here is rather to provide suggestive 
 material for use by instructors in either a public part-time or a fac- 
 tory vestibule sehool. A word is necessary as to the organization 
 for instruction. At the factory there is provision of machines, power 
 and material with but little extra expense. Instructors are selected 
 from among the most capable operators who may have at least a 
 liking for the job, and possibly a "knack" of putting across the 
 ideas required in operating a machine. These instructors, however 
 excellent, are sericmsly handicapped by the fact that they are simply 
 ]>assing on certain skills in much the same way that they themselves 
 were taught them some years ago. They have not learned the new 
 trade of instructing, and are not aware perhaps that they have 
 actually changed trades completely. Executives in the plant have 
 little to oft"er in the way of suggestion for their interest and effort 
 is in production rather than instruction. Consequently the vesti- 
 bule school instructor is left to "go it alone," under the impression 
 that because no one can give her any suggestions, she knows as much 
 about it as anyone else and probably more. There are two points 
 at which the vestibule instructor usually breaks dowm to a degree. 
 The first is the failure to inelude sufficient teaching material in the 
 outline of what should be taught. Probably there is not even such 
 
an outline in existence. This bulletin is an attempt to set up some- 
 thing in the way of an objective. The second error is the impression 
 that showing- and telling is teaching. Remedy for this lies in a study 
 of the art and science of teaching. Instructors must be trained to 
 teach just as operators are trained to manipulate goods in the 
 machine. 
 
 In the part-time school one of two policies may he pursued. The 
 instruction given may include both acquiring of skill on power ma- 
 chines, and the imparting of essential auxiliary information related 
 thereto, or it may cover only the general facts about employment in 
 the trade, the auxiliary information of a more general type regard- 
 ing the materials used, and the story of its production up to the time 
 it comes to this factory as raw material. Unquestionably the former 
 is better since it includes the latter. Such a course of instruction 
 will mean the installation of a number of power sewing machines. 
 The instructor for this part of the work must be familiar Avith quan- 
 tity' production on such machines, and it is recommended that the 
 school board secure the service of some factory instructor for a 
 limited time each week to give the necessary manipulative instruc- 
 tion. The provision of sewing material must also be arranged By 
 cooperation with the management of the company from whom the 
 machine instructor comes, it should be possible to arrange for divert- 
 ing certain parts of lot nund)ers to the part-time school for use by 
 the instructor, who would l)e respoiisilile for them in just the same 
 way as she would be when instructing in the factory. The auxiliary 
 instruction may be given l)y regular part-time instructors who know 
 the factory organization and have learned the personnel and duties 
 which go with each position, together with such information as ap- 
 pears later in this study. 
 
 As indicated previously there will be two types of girl taking such 
 part-time instruction. Some are already emx>loyed in the garment 
 factory at other employments than machine work, and are looking 
 forward to a change which will be in the way of a promotion. Others 
 are emploj^ed at various occupations in the city, or are staying at 
 home, but are anticipating a change of occupation in favor of the 
 garment factory. In an eiglit-hour period of schooling per week, 
 tlie time miglit be divided in the following way: 
 
 Power machine operating 8 liours 
 
 Auxiliary information 1 hour 
 
 General improvement 4 hours 
 
 If twelve girls desired to learn power operating, they could be 
 accommodated with a unit of six machines if formed into two groups, 
 A and B. Half of the eight hours would be required to segregate 
 these girls for special instruction, while the other four of general 
 part-time instruction would be spent in regular classes. The two 
 groups would meet together for the auxiliary trade instruction, but 
 
would get tlieir macliine operating at a different time. A suggested 
 schedule follows : 
 
 First Half Day 
 
 Group A — Machine ()i)erating 3 hours 
 
 Group A — General Work 1 hour 
 
 Group B — General Work 4 hours 
 
 Second Half Day- 
 Group A — General Work 8 hours 
 
 Grouj) B — Machine Operating 3 hours 
 
 Groups A & B — Related Instruction 1 hour 
 
 This would mean that a factory instructor would he reciuired for 
 two half-days of three hours each. 
 
 III. VOCATIONAL TEACHING OBJECTIVES 
 
 Before any body of material can be set up for instructional pur- 
 poses, either in a part-time or a vestibule school, it is necessary to 
 have very clearly defined aims as to what is to be done for those 
 trained. Here are some Avhich might be adopted. 
 
 1. To train the learner as a high speed operator of some particular 
 
 machine doing a special operation. 
 
 2. To train the learner as a skilled operator of some ])articular 
 machine doing a number of operations. 
 
 3. To train the learner as an intelligent, skilled employee giving 
 full time to operation of some machine. 
 
 4. To train the leariier as an intelligent, skilled employee giving 
 full time to variety work on some one or more machines. 
 
 These are each worth some careful thought so that they may be 
 evaluated, for on the choice of ol)jective hangs a great deal of the 
 success attained, provided its requirements are adequately met. It 
 is safe to predicate that the first objective is more frequently chosen 
 than any of the others, or that the methods adopted and teaching 
 content used indicate such to l)e the result where probably no aim 
 had even been formulated. It will be noted that three ideas dom- 
 inate, namel.y, high speed operator, machine, and one operation. The 
 instructor has in mind the minimum time and effort to approximate 
 the aim, and considers the essential elements a machine and an 
 operator to feed it with material. It presupposes an automaton 
 whose only activity is physical like the machine. 
 
 The second objective is an improvement upon the first in that it 
 enlarges the physical effort to a degree, providing a range of dif- 
 erentiated motions which themselves go through a cycle. Here 
 again the elements are a machine and its attendant. 
 
 The fundamental error in the assumption in both cases is that the 
 individual is merely i)hysical. Man is a product of Mind, not of 
 
matter, and as such he is expressing ideas which are more real to him 
 than any material things, because they affect his conduct with ten- 
 fold more force than anything else. Man tights for an idea and 
 strikes for certain principles which he calls fair play, justice, equal- 
 ity, etc. So that to assume that an operator who is trained to attend 
 a machine will do that and nothing more is a fallacy. She thinks, 
 and unless her thoughts are wisely directed they may assume im- 
 proper relationships and induce wrong conclusions. Fancies arise 
 in lieu of facts, and seem as real as the true. Had the training ob- 
 jective included ideas on industrial relationships, there would be 
 much better satisfaction and increased earning power on the part 
 of each learner. 
 
 The third statement of an objective brings in the new element 
 that the learner is an employee as well as a machine attendant. 
 That is, she has human relationships with other employees, who as 
 a whole form the personnel of the force from management down. It 
 is an industrial team, not a collection of persons. They are harnessed 
 together by an organization which demands that eacli unit pull its 
 share. The learner in this case must not only l)e skilled, l)nt also 
 intelligent along such lines as will be indicated later. 
 
 The fourth aim differs from the third in that the learner is trained 
 with advancement to executive positions in view. It may not be 
 purposely entered at the beginning. That is, a learner might have 
 been trained according to the third aim, but manifests ability which 
 would make it advisable to train for the fourth. She would then be 
 taken off the production floor and placed on a time basis while being 
 trained to do a variety of work, and have an adequate jn-esentation 
 of the problems related to that work. 
 
 It is possible that management oft'icials will feel that there is no 
 time for training in anything else than tlie l)are bones of the pro- 
 cesses ; that it will cost too much to follow what looks to be mere 
 idealism. Yet these same officers are spending far more in adjust- 
 ing differences, listening to grievance committees, hiring and train- 
 ing for an abnormal labor turnover than would meet the additional 
 cost of more effective initial training. Ignorance is the l)reeding 
 ground for a large part of the labor dissatisfaction, and when this 
 has been opened up at the beginning, much grief will have been 
 eliminated. 
 
 IV. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONAL CONTENT 
 
 With the purpose of assisting instructors who are faced with the 
 responsibility of giving instruction preparatory to employment in 
 the garment trade, the following outlines have been prepared. They 
 deal with a local situation, and have been itemized from particular 
 data, so that they can serve as a whole only for the schools and 
 factory in this particular city. Elsewhere the material can only be 
 
a sn<>'<i'estioii of what mi<»ht be ]n'epared under parallel eiciimstaiices. 
 Under this hea(lin<>' will l)e included those subjects which shouhl 
 be taken up with every learner who is enrolled, regardless of wliat 
 place she is to occupy in the factory or office. Every clerk should 
 have a day or two in the vestibule school to get acquainted with the 
 local organization, learn who its officers are, catch its spirit, get a 
 good acquaintance with the factory program, and join the team in 
 purpose as well as in letter. There is not any suggestion as to the 
 order in which it is to be discussed because it is all classed as 
 auxiliary information, and as such is simply imparted rather than 
 taught. Instructors will I)e guided by the situation in hand when 
 selecting a sequence of topics. The numerals attached to tlie topics 
 are therefore only for identification purposes. 
 
 Topical Outline 
 
 1. The Local C(nni)any 
 
 a. formed — years ago. 
 
 b. Purpose (enlarge jiresent situation). 
 
 c. fSet up standard of excellence (enlarge i)resent standard). 
 
 d. Com])any organization and duties of (>aeh head (see chart, 
 
 page 10). 
 
 e. Function of each department in factory proper. 
 
 f. Learner is introduced personally to each official with wliom 
 
 she will have relations. 
 
 2. Manufacturing costs 
 
 a. Tal)le showing relation of costs 
 
 I I I 
 
 I Labor | Factory | 
 
 1 1 
 
 -Selling pri 
 
 b. Prime costs include : 
 
 (1) Direct material going into produ(d for sale. 
 
 (2) Indirect material sncli as coal, oil, water, gas, ])oxes, 
 
 crates, factoi'v olTicc supplies. 
 
 (3) Direct labor upon product made for sale. 
 
 (•4) Indirect labor including entire service force. 
 
 c. Factor^' costs include : 
 
 (1) All prime costs. 
 
 (2) Factory supervision, as foremen, foreladies, superin- 
 
 tendents. 
 
 (3) Factory office lalior, as desk girls, label markers, 
 
 clerks. 
 
 (4) Interest on money invested in buildings, or rent for 
 
 same. 
 
KJ 
 
 COMPANY ORGANIZATION 
 
 Oenerv/ Management 
 
 Office Management- 
 Mr. B 
 
 3a/e5 Management 
 Mr.C 
 
 factory Management 
 MrD 
 
 3tvr65 
 Mr.E 
 
 Overa/I 
 
 Mj33 O 
 
 Cutting 
 
 MrF 
 
 Sleeping l^fleor 
 M133I 
 
 Childrenb 
 5/eeper3 
 M135H 
 
 \6tock /3Dom 
 MrK 
 
 fb/d/ng 
 MI33J 
 
 3eruice 
 
 U^lfare 
 Mi3sL 
 
 Machinist 
 MrN 
 
 Cafeteria 
 Mb3M 
 
 Janitor 
 MrO 
 
 1 
 
 
 dchool 
 M135P 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 RDu^er 
 Mr.Q 
 
11 
 
 (5) Interest on money invested in machines, or rent for 
 
 same. 
 (()) Taxes, insurance and repairs. 
 
 (7) All spoila<i'e and waste ot* <i'oods. 
 
 (8) All desi<>nin<i' and experiments. 
 
 (!)) Replacement of all machines as they become useless 
 (dei)reciation). 
 (1. Total costs include : 
 
 (1) All prime costs. 
 
 (2) All factory costs. 
 
 (3) Salaries of ji'eneral olfice and sales force. 
 
 (4) Expense of selling other than sfdary, as travel, etc. 
 
 (5) Rent, taxes, insurance and maintenance of general 
 
 office. 
 
 e. All costs over tliat of direct material and labor are called 
 
 overhead costs. A failure to see relative values is found 
 in assuming that the making cost is the only one. There 
 are many others which nuist be added to this, as shown 
 above, and when all are included it will be found that the 
 selling i)rice of the garment exceeds the total production 
 cost by but a few cents. Get exact company figures to 
 illustrate this in a series of examples. 
 
 f. Profit means the balance or sur])lus which remains of the 
 
 selling price after all costs have been ])aid. It is a rising 
 and falling sum depending upon the amount of goods sold, 
 state of the markets and amount of competition. At times 
 there is no profit at all, and sometimes a real loss must 
 be sustained. 
 Markets and Competition 
 
 a. Manufacturers can only sell when the public wants to buy. 
 
 This want establishes a market. Business market de- 
 pends absolutely on the wants of the people. 
 
 b. When wants an^ nuule known there is a bid by two or more 
 
 manufacturing firms to get the business. This l)idding is 
 called competition. It means cutting the selling price 
 to the limit. 
 
 c. Price cutting means eliminating 
 
 (1) Unnecessary or perhaps all lu-ofit. 
 
 (2) Unnecessary overhead costs. (Local plant examples.) 
 
 (3) Unnecessary factory costs. (Local iilant examples.) 
 
 d. Necessary costs cannot be reduced. They include 
 
 (1) Low^est buying cost of matei-ial. 
 
 (2) Lowest fair Avage for labor, sui)ervision, office and 
 
 selling force. 
 
 e. Fair wages, hours and conditions mean willingness and 
 
 teamwork, resulting in least amount of spoilage and 
 waste, and largest output of product. 
 
12 
 
 f. A sale order at a sliohtly lower price and more frequently 
 made is better than a sale order at a higher price and 
 less frequently made. (Local plant examples.) No sales 
 mean no work at our factory. 
 4. Capital Turnover 
 
 a. Two meanings are given to the term. 
 
 (1) Volume of business transacted in tlie vear. Example 
 
 with an investment of .t(iO,0()0, $60,000 worth of' 
 material w^as bought, made and sold. One turn 
 over was made. 
 
 (2) If the $60,000 total was reached by having only 
 
 $'20,000 available cash, this being used to purchase, 
 make and sell, then again purchase, make and sell' 
 and again a third time, then the companv is said 
 to have made three turnovers in the vear on a 
 $20,000 investment. 
 
 b. Company having two turnovers in a year can sell at 3% 
 
 profit, and earn as much as it AV(uild with one turnover 
 selling at 6% profit. It is therefore better for public, 
 company and employees if turnovers can be made as fre- 
 quently as possible on a small investment. Show why. 
 Get local data for use on this topic, and enlarge as much 
 as needed. 
 
 V. COMMON FACTORY KNOWLEDGE 
 
 This auxiliary information is given in addition to the i)recedin<'' 
 material to all employees who are to enter the faetorv. It is some^- 
 vvhat more specific in character so that the w^orkers have an immedi- 
 ate knowledge which will not only serve them, but will help them 
 know their place in the industrial team and fill it intelligently and 
 satisfactorily to themselves. 
 
 There is also a body of information which is required by every 
 machine operator, irrespective of the particular tvpe of machine 
 which she may be operating. All sjx'cial descriptions of machines 
 foi- exami)le will appear in the detailed analysis of that part of the 
 production duty in which such machines are used. All information 
 whicli would otherwise have to be repeated with each machine has 
 been assembled under this heading for convenience. Likewise with 
 materials used, where all who are working with flannels, or caml)rics 
 or pongees, would need to know the properties of each of these in 
 order to handle them intelligently, it saves effort and time to cover 
 this common subject matter once only. 
 
 Topical Outline 
 
 1. The local organization for production : 
 
 Make a trip over the factory and point out main features, tlien 
 discuss more fully in school. Study the followinu' chart. 
 
13 
 
 Chart of Production Organization 
 
 Cuffing 
 Deparfmenf 
 
 Stores 
 Deparfmenf 
 
 Cuf Parfs 
 
 for all 
 
 Garments 
 
 Overall 
 Deparfmenf 
 
 Sleeping wean 
 Deparfmenf 
 
 Trimmings 
 Accessories 
 
 q: 
 
 Children 's 
 
 Sleeper 
 
 Deparfmenf 
 
 Pajamas 
 
 PaJ unions 
 
 Pajuneftes 
 
 Nightgowns 
 
 Nightshirts 
 
 Fancy Shirts 
 
 Bloomers 
 
 Children's 
 Sleepers 
 
 Overalls 
 Rompers 
 
 ^ Work Shirf^ 
 
 Stock 
 Room 
 
 Boxed 
 Garments 
 
 Folding 
 Departmen f 
 
 Pins 
 
 Boxes 
 
 Paper 
 
 The foUowin-' clescriptinii of the oi-anizatiou will add further to 
 the uiulerstandinji' of the chart, 
 a. Purchasing- Agent 
 
 Material or stock is l)ought by (name), who is part of the 
 office staff. Goods on arrival are sent to the stores de- 
 partment for record and distribution as needed. 
 1). Planning and Designing De]iartment 
 
 Designs for i>arments are worked out m a division ot the 
 general office. When a design is approved it is then de- 
 tailed onto a deseriptive sheet showing quantities, kinds 
 and sizes of various piece-goods, trimmings, buttons, etc., 
 re(iuired. An order number or lot number is assigned to 
 it, and the descrii)tive sheet is then sent to the store room, 
 along with a master work chart and cutting ticket. Get 
 these and discuss samides fully, 
 c. Stores Department 
 
 (1) Requisitions materials. 
 
 (2) Receives and enters record of all materials. 
 
 (8) Piece-goods (yardage) kept in stock room distinct 
 
 from small stores. 
 (4) On receipt of order from i)lanning department, 
 
 (a) Enters order or lot number on books. 
 
 (b) Sends master work chart and cutting ticket 
 
 with piece-goods to cutting department. 
 
 (c) Retains descriptive sheet. 
 
 (d) Makes out size ticket for the lot and sends 
 
 them to cutting rocnii. 
 
14 
 
 (e) Removes from store l)y perpetual inventory 
 
 system (deseril)e) all trimmings, etc., indi- 
 cated on (c) and places them in a box mark- 
 ed with the lot number. This goes to sew- 
 ing department on re(iuest of desk girl when 
 needed. 
 
 (f) Kecpiisition boxes or cartons for packing the 
 
 order when it reaches folding department, 
 d. Cutting Department 
 
 This is the department in which production actually be- 
 gins. The large room is filled with long tables on which 
 Avhole webs of piece goods can be laid up one upon an- 
 other until two or three inches deep. A set of patterns 
 is laid upon the lays and marked, then the cutters use the 
 cutting machine to separate all the parts, following the 
 lines very carefully. These parts are asseml)led into 
 l)undles of twenty-four complete garments, and the neces- 
 say cut trimmings and size labels wliich go witli tliem. 
 Tlie tied l)undles are ticketed with lot immber and sent 
 to the sewing room in wlieeled trucks. 
 A picture of the department is shown in tlu' following tal)le. Pay- 
 roll job means the name under which a given worker is identified. 
 Sometimes this name indicates exactly what the employee works at, 
 l)ut in many cases it does not, so tlie names of all the jol)s each 
 employee works at are ]:)laced opposite the i)ayr()]l jol) to nuike clear 
 just what duties the payroll jol) includes. 
 
 Cutting Department 
 
 No. 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 1 
 
 Layer 
 
 Sort yardage, sort colors, check quantities, lay up. 
 
 2 
 
 Marker 
 
 Select patteins according to master work chart, check yard- 
 age, mark lays. 
 
 3 
 
 Cutter 
 
 Cut lays with machine, trim lay^ with short knife. 
 
 4 
 
 Assembler 
 
 Split into 24's, put in labels, put in cut trimming, etc., attach 
 
 
 (Trimmer) 
 
 job ticket. 
 
 5 
 
 Matcher 
 
 Match stripes on parts of fancy shirts before cutter cuts to 
 
 
 (Not a reKular 
 
 pattern line. 
 
 
 job) 
 
 
 e, 
 
 Transfer boy 
 
 Distribute bundles to sewing departments. 
 
 e. Overall Department 
 
 For descri])tion see introduction to analysis of this de- 
 partment on page 20. 
 
 f. lSleei)ingwear Department 
 
 For description see introduction to analysis of this de- 
 partment on pages -42 and 5(1 
 
 g. Children's Sleeper Department 
 
 For description see introduction to analysis of tliis de- 
 ment on page 65. 
 h. Folding Dei)artment 
 
 For descri])tion see introduction to analysis of this de- 
 ment on page 74. 
 
15 
 
 Machinist Departinent 
 
 While this department is not directly concerned Avith pro- 
 duction, because it does not handle the goods, yet its 
 indirect relationship is very intimate because the service 
 rendered is in care of the machines. A small shop is pro- 
 vided where machines can be taken down and repaired, 
 or adjustments made. The following chart indicates the 
 service rendered. 
 
 No. 1 Payroll Job 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 1 1 Machinist 
 1 
 
 2 1 Belt boy 
 
 1 
 
 Take down machines, repair parts, replace parts, make ad- 
 justments, install machines. 
 
 Repair belts, oil shafting and motors, assist on repair work, 
 aHiu-t liahts. minor service jobs. 
 
 Stock Room, also Shipping Room 
 This department receives the finished goods in boxes, 
 cartons and parcels from the overall and folding depart- 
 ments. The overalls are not wrapped, being simply tied 
 in dozens. Goods are asseml)led according to orders re- 
 ceived from the oifiee and prei)ared for sliipping. 
 A chart of the (U'partment sliows tlic folb)\ving duties: 
 
 No. 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 1 
 
 Stock Clerk 
 
 Receive goods from factory, place them in stock room, pick 
 out and prepare order for the shipping room. 
 
 
 Checker 
 
 Check order sheet with goods in shipping rocm. 
 
 3 
 
 Packer 
 
 Wrap parcels and tie them, fill cases with cartons or wrapped 
 bundles. 
 
 4 
 
 Receiving Clerk 
 
 Record weights and numbers of cases. 
 
 5 
 
 Shipping Clerk 
 
 Record shipments. 
 
 6 
 
 Helper 
 
 Open empty cases, nail up cases, brush on addresses, load 
 wagons. 
 
 2. Materials used in factory production 
 a. Denim 
 
 (1) Used for overalls, work coats, i-ompers. 
 
 (2) Bought in hab-s of 1000 yards each, tlie yaiubigc com- 
 
 ing ill pieces of 50 to 60 yards each in length. 
 Width, 28 inches. 
 
 (3) Described in catalog as two-twenty, two-forty, two- 
 
 sixty or three yard denim, meaning heavy, medium 
 and light weight goods respectively, and referring 
 to fact that there are 2.20 yards, 2.40 yards, etc., 
 to a pound of cloth. 
 
 (4) (^istomary in factoiy to refer to goods by lot number 
 
 to which the siiecial kind has been assigned in de- 
 scriptive sheet, as \-l()2, ()-2(i3, P-:1558, etc. 
 
 (5) ^Tannfactiirers will guarantee only one bale of vat- 
 
 dyed piece-goods to be uniform in color, hence 
 when lot inunhers run s(>veral bales it becomes 
 necessary for cperator to match colors, to see that 
 each overall suit is same shade throughout. 
 
16 
 
 (6) Some deninis arc washed in a solution of iron, wliicli 
 
 when dried out h'aves tlie iron in the cloth to make 
 it heavier. This iron is hard on sewinfj; machine 
 needles, dullin<i' them rapidly. Remedy is to soap 
 needle or use as fine a size of needle as will stand 
 up against the drive. 
 
 (7) Kinds used are plain l)lue. plain wliite, ])lain khaki, 
 
 blue and white stripes. 
 
 (8) Close weave makes the <i'oods somewhat stiff and 
 
 heavy to handle. 
 
 (9) Len<i-th of stitch. 10 to 14 to the inch. 
 
 b. Flannelette 
 
 (1) Used for Avinter sleeping' wear for men, women and 
 
 children. 
 
 (2) Cases contain 1500 to 2000 yards, 50 to 60 yards to a 
 
 piece. Width, 36 inches. 
 
 (3) Woven and napped on both sides so that tliere is no 
 
 right and wrong side to the goods. 
 
 (4) Variety is secured hy stripes of various widths and 
 
 spaces. Stripes may l)e one color or composed of 
 several narrow colored stripes together, forming 
 a larger stripe. 
 
 (5) Comi)osite strijies are two kinds. 
 
 (a) Balanced, in which there is uniform arrange- 
 
 ment of the narrow stripes on each side of a 
 center line. 
 
 (b) "One way" patterns, in which there is no sym- 
 
 metrical arrangement. 
 
 (6) In the latter case parts of garments requiring to be 
 
 matched, like i)ocket pieces, can only be placed 
 "one way" when attached. Balanced patterns are 
 preferred. 
 
 (7) Softness of the weave allows the sewing machine 
 
 thread to siiik easily into the goods, so that length 
 of sticli can l)e 14 to the inch and still do a good 
 piece of work. Cottons and harder goods require 
 16-18 stitches to the inch. 
 
 (8) Much lint gathers on the macliinc ])arts when using 
 
 flannelette, requiring more fre(|uent cleaning. 
 
 c. Information similar to the above sliould l)e secured and 
 
 given on the following : prints, eanibries, muslins, pongees, 
 percales, nainsooks, jacquards, silks ,any other ])iece 
 goods made up into garments. 
 
 d. Sundry materials in store room 
 
 (1) Folding Department 
 
 Pins are Itonght in l)ulk in 5-11). boxes, 20 l)oxes to 
 case. 
 
17 
 
 (2) ()v(M'all Depai'tmeiit 
 
 {i\) Patent l)Utt()iis. Bon-ilit in livcat iiross (12 
 gross) paekaties, 2.-) packages to the case. 
 Bnttons and tacks in separate packajz'es. 
 Made in jajianned, brass, or nickel finish. 
 Sizes measured l)y -'lines," a line beinti' one- 
 fortieth of an inch. Two sizes, usually 22- 
 line and 27-line, used on each garment. 
 
 (b) Buckles, loops, snap loops, slides. Bought by 
 
 double-gross or in barrel lots, bulk ; made in 
 brass and nickel. 
 
 (c) Elastic webbing. Bought per yard l)y 1000 
 
 yards, in 50-yard rolls. Marked to order 
 with firm name and space marks for cutting 
 into lengths. Widths used are %", 1", IVs", 
 1%". !%"• 1-^sed in straps or suspenders. 
 Cut into bundle lengths of one dozen pieces 
 by store clerk, and into separate pieces by 
 operator. 
 
 (d) Labels. Paper and cloth lal)els are printed to 
 
 order with firm trademark and lot number. 
 Sizes are stamped on labels with rubber 
 stamps before being sent to cutting room. 
 
 (e) Thread. White, black, olive drab and canary 
 
 vellow colors used. Size of thread indicated 
 bv number, and hyphenated with it the 
 number of cords in the twist, 24-3, 36-3, etc. 
 Eight hundred and forty yards of thread of 
 any size is arbitrarily called a "hank"." If 
 30 "hanks of a ])articular size of thread weigh 
 one i)ound, then that size is said to be No. 30 
 thread, etc. This is also called the ' ' count. 
 Thread may be glazed (starch) or soft. Top 
 thread (needle) is 30-3, soft, and comes in 
 9,600-yard spools. Spools cost 10 cents extra 
 over cones, but expense is saved in knotting 
 trouble as it comes oft' on the machine. Bot- 
 tom thread (bobbin or looper) is 36-3, soft, 
 and comes in 12,000-yard cardboard cones. 
 The way it is wound on does not cause 
 trouble "in machine and saves expense for 
 spools. Buttonhole thread is 56-3, glazed, 
 for the Reece machine, and 30-3, soft, for 
 Singer machine; colors black and bronze- 
 brown. Buttonhole cord is a heavy black 
 3-cord which is sewn in around edge of hole 
 for reinforcement purpose. 
 
18 
 
 (3) Sleeping wear and children's sleeper departments 
 
 (a) Labels. Bought in 500,000 lots, 1000 labels 
 to the roll. Trademark and firm name 
 printed on them. 
 (1)) Size tabs. Bought locally and printed in 
 20,()()() or 80,000 lots with the sizes and 
 classes such as "men's," ladies', boy's, 
 l)aby's, etc. Tabs are stuck under edge of 
 label when sewn to garment. 
 (g) Thread. Top is 60-3 and 80-3, white, soft, on 
 spools. Bottom is 70-3 and 80-3, white, soft, 
 on cones, laibleaehed white is cheaper and 
 stronger than bleached, and is used on flan- 
 nelette where possible. Bleached must be 
 used on cambrics and muslins. Colored cot- 
 ton or silk thread to match is used on all 
 garments of pongee, silk, etc. Buttonhole 
 thread is 4()-(), white, on top and 70-(), white, 
 on t)ottom. 
 
 (d) Buttons. Freshwater native j^earl I)uttons are 
 
 white opalescent. Japanese pearl buttons 
 are yellow semi-transparent and higher 
 grade buttons in every respect, and yet can 
 be purchased at almost same price because 
 of cheaper labor. Two-thirds of freshwater 
 are used for the bulk of garments. The 
 higher priced garments have Japanese but- 
 tons. Ocean pearl buttons, highest grade of 
 American make, are used exclusively on 
 shirts. Sizes used vary with position on 
 garment, being 18-line, 20. 22, 24, 28 and 
 30-line - diameters. 
 
 (e) Trimmings 
 
 Mercerized crochet cotton, Nos. 3 (coarse), 
 11 and 20, all 2-cord, is bought in bulk in 
 Vo-lb. cones in white and all desired colors. 
 Smallei- (puintities bought locally in balls. 
 Used for fancy stitching on garments, like 
 briar, wave, hem and shell stitching. Ex- 
 plain jn-ocess and purpose of mercerizing 
 yarn. 
 
 Feather stitch In-aid (silk thread designs in 
 white and colors on cotton braid 3/16" to 
 %" wide) is frequently sewn on garments. 
 Woven braids in two forms, bought bulk in 
 gross yards on spools. 
 Kik-rak is a zig-zag weave of silk thread 
 
19 
 
 over a lieavy strai^lit cotton eoi-d, and is 
 sewn (lireet onto <i'ann('nts. Coloi-s as de- 
 sired. 
 
 Ed<»'in<>' and plain braids in white and eolors 
 for sewing- along' edges of garments 
 Middy laces for pajiiiiions and pajuni^tes. 
 Ribbons, plain and faney, white and colored, 
 for knots, bows, etc. 
 
 Elastic for bottoms of ]>ajiinettes and bloom- 
 ers, with straight lining for covering same. 
 Bought in 2-gross yard spools. 
 Bindings, straight and ])ias cotton, for doub- 
 ling over edges and sewing to garment. Bias 
 binding is made by cutting piece-goods at an 
 angle of 45 degrees in widths of about two 
 feet and sewing tlie selvages end to end 
 without overlapping. Special machine stag- 
 gers the needle alternately across the joined 
 edges. The bias strip is then rolled on a 
 tube and sawn off int 
 rolls. Edges are raw. 
 Fringe is a narr(n\' cotton tape with silk or 
 cotton fringe along one edge, bought in 
 half-gross yards on a card. Used for sew- 
 ing to ends of pajama girdles. Is cut up l)y 
 operator as needed. 
 
 Loops (frogs) in white and colors are bought 
 111 gross-lots for sewing on l)uttonliol(' posi- 
 tions on i)ajama jackets. 
 E(iuipment 
 
 a. Instruction about construction, operation and care of ma- 
 chines 
 
 (1) Principal parts of machine are: 
 
 (a) Head, the sewing part, fastened to table top. 
 
 (b) Transmitter, the power link, fastened to under 
 
 side of table. 
 
 (c) Control system, the foot treadles or knee lifts 
 
 which start and stop action. 
 
 (d) Tiiread standard, from floor or tabic to]), hold- 
 
 ing two, four or six spools according to 
 machine. 
 
 (2) Principal parts of the head are: 
 
 (a) Base, the iron casting supjiorting all machin- 
 ery and attachments. Parts called bed, 
 column and arm. Beds may be flat (regular 
 type) or special (shaped to do special work) 
 
20 
 
 as on huttoiiliolt', felling' or tacking ma- 
 chines. 
 
 (b) Main Shaft and llandwliccl. The shaft lies in 
 
 the arm, witli lianchvlieel for hand control 
 and belt lirooye at right oi- back. On Ihe 
 sliaft are all needed cams to ehaiige revolv- 
 ing motion into reciprocating motion. One 
 cam operates a link down through the col- 
 umn to the underside of bed, controlling 
 feed dog and shuttle or looper. Another 
 cam operates the needle. Other devices on 
 special machines may l)e operated by cams 
 or gears. 
 
 (c) Presser foot is a smooth shoe which is attached 
 
 to the bottom end of an upright sliding bar 
 just behind the necMlle. A spring presses 
 this shoe downwards to kvep the cloth 
 against tlie surface of the bed. The needle 
 usually is so placed as to work through an 
 opening in the foot. It is lifted to insert 
 cloth by a link or rod and chain to either 
 a treadle or a knee-lift. 
 
 (d) Feed dog is the serrated moving pai-t which 
 
 comes np through the bed beneath the 
 presser foot far enough to grip the cloth 
 against the foot and draw it l)ack after the 
 needle has been withdrawn. Its motion is 
 compound reciprocating, first rising, second 
 moving backward, third dropping, fourth 
 moving foi'ward. The feed dog controls the 
 length of stitcli, as its back and forward mo- 
 tion can be shortened or leiigtliened by a 
 stitch regulator. 
 
 (e) Stitch regulator is an adjustment which alters 
 
 the proportion of the link motion operating 
 the feed dog so that it moves thr(mgh a 
 smaller or greatei- spact>. In some machines 
 the regulatoi' is placed on tlu' end of the 
 main shaft outside the handwheel, and in 
 others on the front of the column just near 
 the bed. 
 
 (f ) Tensions are regulating devices for controlling 
 
 the "pull" or tautness of the thread, in 
 which the thread passes between two plates 
 or discs whicli have i)ressure upon them by 
 si)ring and adjusting nut. One is on the 
 
arm for llic top thread and the oilier under 
 tlie bed for the bottom thread. 
 
 (<>■) Take-nps are the movin<>' eyeh'ts tlirough 
 which tlie thread must pass, foi' tlie purpose 
 first, of drawing' thread tlirough the tension 
 as the needle descends ; second of slacking 
 off thread for the looping operation indi- 
 cated by the slight backing up of the needle ; 
 and third, to take up the thread taut again 
 as the needle rises. One take-up is on the 
 arm, and the other beneath the bed. Mo- 
 tions of both tally exactly witli that of the 
 needle. There is no lower take-nj) on a 
 shuttle machine, that action being pi'ovidcd 
 in the motion of the shuttle itself. 
 
 (h) Looper and shuttle. Two distinct methods of 
 feeding the lowci- tlwcad to the needle. The 
 shuttle is a revolving oi- reciprocating part 
 containing a bobbin or spool of thread, and 
 so timed as to pass its point or nose through 
 the loop of the u|)p('i- thread wiien formed 
 by the partial lowei-ing of the needle. Thread 
 is wound onto the bobbins and put into the 
 shuttle as required. In the looper system 
 the loAver thread comes direct from the 
 spool to the lower tension, through the take- 
 up and into the looper, which passes i1 
 behind the needle thread in exactly the 
 same manner as the upper thread came 
 through the upper series. Further descrip- 
 tion of these mechanisms is impossible with- 
 out the machine to demonstrate. 
 
 (i) Bobbin winders on the shuttle machines are 
 fastened to tlie table so as to receive motion 
 by friction against the handwhetd. The 
 thread passes througli a tension onto a bob- 
 bin, which when tilled autonuitically throws 
 the windei- out of contact with the hand- 
 wheel. 
 
 (j) Multiple-needle bar. Some machines sew two 
 and three rows of stitches, by having that 
 many needles in the bar. In these machines 
 the looper system is used beneath the bed, 
 so that either two, four, or six spools of 
 thread are fed directly into the needle ac- 
 cording as it is a one, two or three-needle 
 machine. 
 
22 
 
 (3) Transmitter 
 
 (a) Purpose to transfer i)()wer fron* the line shaft 
 and control its use or non-use. It is simpl}' 
 a jack shaft on hangers under the table and 
 guarded at all danger points. 
 
 {})) Di-iven Pulley. Either a flat or grooved belt 
 pulley connected with the line shaft by a 1" 
 fiat or a round leather belt, and running 
 loose on the jack shaft. It runs continuous- 
 ly with the line shaft. 
 
 (c) Driving Wheel. A grooved wheel fastened to 
 
 the jack shaft and belted by round leather 
 through holes in the table to the handwheel 
 on the head. It stands still wlien machine 
 is out of action. 
 
 (d) Clutch and brake. By special device on side 
 
 of the two wheels, called a clutch, the two 
 can be locked together so as to run as one 
 wheej. Momentum of the machine is check- 
 ed so as to stop when the clutch is released 
 by immediate application of a brake. Loos- 
 ening the clutch applies the l)rake at the 
 ' same time, and vice versa. 
 
 (e) Speed ratios. Machines are constructed to 
 
 run at certain capacities, usually 2500 to 
 3500 stitches per minute of continuous run- 
 ning, and to maintain that speed always 
 while actually sewing. With a mainshaft 
 running at a certain known speed, and the 
 machine speed known, only a certain size 
 for each of the two pulleys of the trans- 
 mitter will give the right speed. Two-step 
 transmitters are sometimes made so that 
 machines may run at different speeds ac- 
 cording to tlie goods being put through. In 
 this case tlie line shaft and driven pulley 
 have each two steps (called a two-step cone) 
 on which the belt may be placed. 
 
 (4) CVuitrol system 
 
 (a) Transmitter treadle. A foot tread linked to 
 
 the clutch and Ijrake of the transmitter. 
 Pressure of the foot releases the brake and 
 cuts in the clutch. Removal of the pressure 
 reverses the action. 
 
 (b) Presser foot control. Already described un- 
 
 der presser foot. Either a foot lift or a knee 
 lift. 
 
23 
 
 (e) All machines have si)eeial controls and ad- 
 jnstments wliich can only be tanji'ht by dem- 
 onstration (111 those machines at which the 
 learner is to he employed. 
 
 (5) Attachments 
 
 (a) Folders. Very many forms for special duty, 
 
 and only describable when actual part is 
 present. They are made of thin sheet metal 
 formed in such a way as to lead the edg'e 
 of the cloth niuler the needle in some ar- 
 ranged manner. Single scroll folders turn 
 only one edge of cloth. Double scroll fold- 
 ers work two edges together so as to form 
 seams of various kinds and sizes. Double 
 scrolls may be either right or left, that is, 
 make upper side of seam face right or left 
 of the needle. Fastened as a rule to l)ed 
 just in front of the presser foot. Vary in 
 weight and strength according to goods to 
 be handled. Must be placed "fair" so that 
 scam or liem is correctly under the needle 
 Must be ill some cases adjusted for runs of 
 thick and thin goods. 
 
 (b) Combination presser foot and folder. ITsed 
 
 for pleating work in shirts. 
 
 (c) Gatherer. Works in combination with a 
 
 double folder, where one part of garment 
 must be gathered in as it is sewn ])etween 
 two other hemmed edges. T^sed alone on 
 any piece of goods. Operates l)y lever at- 
 tached to bottom of needle bar. 
 
 (d) Numerous attachments for special purposes 
 
 described only to those who will operate 
 them. 
 
 (6) Needles 
 
 (a) Needles are marked by numliers according to 
 size, ranging from No. 2 (smallest) to No. 8 
 for garment making purposes. The size of 
 
 Needle 
 Number 
 
 Thread Sizes 
 
 Cotton 
 
 Silk 
 
 2 
 
 150-100 
 
 000-00 
 
 214 
 
 100- 90 
 
 00 
 
 3 
 
 90- 80 
 
 
 
 3 Mi 
 
 80- 70 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 70- 60 
 
 A 
 
 41/3 
 
 60- 50 
 
 B 
 
 5 
 
 50- 40 
 
 C 
 
 6 
 
 40- 30 
 
 C 
 
 7 
 
 30- 24 
 
 D 
 
 8 
 
 24- 16 
 
 G 
 
24 
 
 the eye has a distinct ratio to diameter of 
 the needel, hence certain sizes of needles 
 are best used Avith certain sizes of thread. 
 A table is given to indicate this relation. 
 {])) The method of setting- needles in the machines 
 is the same in principle, but may vary 
 somewhat in ai)plication on different ma- 
 chines. A set screw is tightened against 
 the shank of the needle after it is placed in 
 a hole or a groove in the needle-bar Direc- 
 tions which go with the machine indicate 
 method of placing the needle at the right 
 height to have the eye make the loop in cor- 
 rect place for the slnittlc i)oint or looper to 
 pass through it. 
 
 (c) Any facts regarding essential shape or size of 
 
 the needle for specific purposes should be 
 taught. 
 
 (d) Method of threading needle is a point for 
 
 careful instruction. It includes how to 
 shape end of the thread, how to hold thread 
 properly, best method of passing it into eye 
 and drawing through, best position of eye 
 and light to strike the eve "fair." 
 
 (7) Line Shaft 
 
 Placed l)eneath a doul)le row of machine tables and 
 serving two rows of machines. Motor drive con- 
 nected usually at one end of line shaft. Safety 
 precautions. 
 
 (8) Threading machine 
 
 (a) Upper thread. Each learner must be taught 
 
 to thread her individual machine. The 
 fundamental things about threading are that 
 thread goes first through a guide, second 
 through a tension, third through a take-up, 
 and fourth through guides to needle. 
 
 (b) Lower thread. In general, take out throat 
 
 plate, remove empty bobbin, place full bob- 
 bin and close shuttle, draw tliread through 
 tension, turn hand wheel till needle brings 
 up lower thread, replace throat plate. 
 
 (9) Feeding 
 
 (a) Underply must always be retarded and over- 
 ply allowed to run through freely. Reason 
 is that the feed dog pulls the ply next to it, 
 while the presser foot restrains the upper 
 ply giving a tendency to slide and pucker. 
 
25 
 
 Only exception to this is when the inuh'rply 
 is bias <i()0(ls, in which case it sliouhl l)e al- 
 h)we(l to rnn through freely. 
 (h) Simihii- instruction, with intelli<icii1 reasons 
 ill all eases, on method of operating' when 
 starting seam, turning corners, removing 
 work, taekinu' with presser foot lifted, etc. 
 
 (10) Oiling Machine 
 
 All places re(piiring oil should he located and 
 method of getting to them with oil-can demon- 
 strated. The grease cup on the transmitter is also 
 to 1)6 explained. Frequency of oiling is deter- 
 mined by the need, and once established, every 
 operator should conform to the schedule. All 
 parts do not require oil with the same frequency, 
 so that judgment as to when and how much oil to 
 ap])ly is an essential teaching point. Garments 
 may be I'uined by spattering, and machines may 
 be ruined by burnt bearings. There is a proper 
 condition which mnst be learned and maintained. 
 
 (11) Cleaning machine 
 
 The machine is the operator's friend. When treat- 
 ed rightly it responds by increased earnings. 
 Neglect it and it cannot serve so well. If factory 
 rules retpiire that machines be giv(Mi a jieriodie 
 cleaning, the ruling has been made in tht^ best 
 interests of all. It should l)e observetl oidy as the 
 least that might be done. Lint, dust, grit, excess 
 aiid used oil gather and reduce earning power. 
 Two minutes sj^ent in cleaning occasionally will 
 return several times that in earnings. Learners 
 should be taught how to clean, and required to 
 clean their school machine, say daily, as a pre- 
 liminary to ])eginning work. Each cleaning should 
 be inspected and graded. 
 
 (12) Trouble Shooting 
 
 (a) Thread l)reaks repeatedly. Look for rough 
 
 needle hole in throat plate, worn eye in 
 needle, tension too tight or grooved, uneven 
 size of thread, knots, snarls, etc. Remedy 
 for each case when found. 
 
 (b) Skip stitches. Look for cause of looper or 
 
 shuttle failing to get through loo]) made by 
 needle, or maybe looper tension is too slack, 
 allowing more thread to come thi'ough tlian 
 lower take-uj) can control. Remedy for 
 cause when located. 
 
26 
 
 (c) Similar instruction for all forms of trouble 
 which may arise. 
 1). Cafeteria and Recreation Rooms 
 
 (1) Necessary description and rules as to its use. 
 Routin<;' System 
 
 a. General plan 
 
 (1) Route of material from cutting' room to top floor 
 thence by stages back to gromul tioor. Banks of 
 similar machines installed on tables in number suf- 
 ficient to <iet balanced i)roduction. Stationary 
 bins at ends of machine tal)les and close to examin- 
 ing tables for storing bundles between processes. 
 Counter between tables and bins at which desk 
 girls make records of bundles handled into and 
 out of bins, with record of operators and processes. 
 
 b. Methods of transportation 
 
 (1) Trucks with racks or l)oxes for bringing stock to and 
 
 from cutting room, and finally to stock room as 
 finished product. 
 
 (2) Shutes for passage fi'om tioor to floor. 
 
 (8) Bundles carried by individuals to and from machines, 
 examining tables, folding tables, boxing tables, etc. 
 
 Card and Ticket Systems 
 
 All lots and bundles are distinguished l)y cards l)earing desci'ip- 
 tive numbers, and work cards for tlie ])ayr()ll number of each 
 operator performing certain ])roductive tasks on the goods. 
 Necessary instruction regarding these cards must be included 
 li(M-e. samples of same being prepared for demonstration, and 
 practice afforded in filling them out. 
 
 Employment and training 
 
 a. All beginners must be trained to ])roduce at a jirofit to 
 
 themselves. From the first they should know that they 
 are not profitable workers for themselves, and a distinct 
 loss to the company. The piece rate earnings represent 
 their real value to themselves and the company. The 
 cost of training and any other wages than piece rates 
 earned arc tlierefore given to tliem without any returned 
 value. 
 
 b. The eom])any considers that a girl cannot learn to earn 
 
 profital)ly to herself at the piece rates under less than 
 seven wrecks, and in order to be fair it pays a Ijonus or 
 free gift in addition to the amount earned. The schedule 
 of wages ])aid during the training jieriod is as follows: 
 
 Week Piece rate earnings Bonus 
 
 1st Record of bundles sewn and .$7.00 
 
 2nd Record of bundles sewn and 6.00 
 
 3rd Record of bundles sewn and 5.00 
 
 4th Record of bundles sewn and 4.00 
 
27 
 
 5th Record of bundles sewn and 3.00 
 
 6th Record of bundles sewn and 2.00 
 
 7th Record of bundles sewn and 1.00 
 
 8th Record of bundles sewn and none 
 
 Get actual figures of several cases to show constancy of the sum. 
 
 c. Piece rate system is established to make it possible for 
 
 girls to earn according to their skill. By it a certain 
 price is set for doing a i)iece or unit or perhaps a dozen 
 l)ieces. This jirice is established in as fair a manner as 
 can be found. Two methods are used in setting the rate, 
 each of whicli is intended to find the average speed of 
 production and to set opposite that average a fair wage. 
 
 (1) P]xperienced girls picked at random (say six) are set 
 
 to work upon bundles of the same kind, and a 
 record of the time of each girl is kept. This trial 
 is repeated several times (say four) and the time 
 of each girl is kept. The time of the twenty-four 
 records is then added and a fair wage set for the 
 time required to make twenty-four bundles. The 
 piece rate or rate ]^er dozen would be one-forty- 
 eighth of this amount. 
 . Examples of these should be worked out as jirob- 
 lems with actual data to show how it is done. 
 Knowledge satisfies. 
 
 (2) A skilled girl is jnit at the new work on a time basis. 
 
 The amount of work which she does is considered 
 to be 80'/ of what she will do when she gets up 
 to her full speed. This amount which she has done 
 is taken as the amount required to earn the wage 
 for that time. That is, the normal rate is set at 4/5 
 of a high speed day's work for a day's pay. The 
 incentive will be to earn more than the day's pay 
 by doing better than 4/5 of a day's work. 
 Examples are needed to make clear how this 
 method works out in actual practice. 
 
 d. Relation of piece rate to turnover 
 
 It is essential that employees get clearly in mind that 
 quantity production affects the making cost per unit in 
 a way that is frequently forgotten or neglected. If a 
 company invests $150,000 in a factory to make garments 
 and the turnover in a year is 100,000 dozen, it has to 
 figure very closely on the making cost. An item in the 
 price even as small as one cent ])er garment means $12,000 
 difference in the making cost for the year. If the com- 
 pany had been making 6^ on its investment and had to 
 al)sorb such an amount it would mean that the 6% would 
 be wiped out and a 2', loss on the year's l)usiness would 
 
28 
 
 take its place. Hence the rates have to be considered 
 carefully for Vs cents here and 14 cent there per garment. 
 A series of questions taken from actual rates and with 
 the company's actual invested cajjital sliould be given to 
 drive this point home. 
 
 Factory rules 
 Every employee is required to conform to a number of 
 regulations which have been put into effect from time to 
 time as need arose. They were not made up arbitrarily 
 at one time, and enforced just for the purpose of showing 
 a desire to rule things. Every rule has a reason, and 
 each employee should be informed before going into 
 actual production what rules there are, and have a reason 
 given for the existence of each rule. Furnish a printed 
 or mimeographed copy for each employee, but do more 
 than hand over a copy. Teach the reasons. 
 There is also the matter of courtesy and general factory 
 etiquette. Rules do not cover everything, and there is 
 much which is left to the judgment and good sense of 
 every employee in regard to relations with others. Many 
 local examples of desirable conduct should be collected 
 and discussed with every employee. 
 
 Safety and shop hygiene 
 Aside from such rules as have been made governing safe- 
 ty, it is necessary to give some training in first aid and in 
 general habits of careful action. There should be fire 
 drill for the entire force occasionally, and every new em- 
 ployee needs instruction on points connected with such 
 driil. Some of this instruction will be given when in- 
 structing about use of the machines, but there is also 
 need for some time being given to formal discussion of 
 principles of safety as applied in the particular plant. 
 Upgrading and promotion 
 Provision should be made for training girls provided they 
 show ability and ambition to work up in the service of 
 the company. A promotional schedule for such training 
 ought to be worked out and the objective kept clearly in 
 mind by foreladies, instructors, management ami tlie 
 candidate herself. Systematic preparation for super- 
 visory positions Avill surely pay for effort expended in 
 this way. 
 State and Federal laws governing safety, employment, 
 workmen's compensation, liousing, etc. 
 
 Interpretation of graphs and charts showing production 
 records of quantity, perfects and imperfects, and otlier 
 types. 
 
20 
 
 VI. DETAILED ANALYSIS OF CERTAIN DEPARTMENTS 
 
 Elsewhere it was stated that machine operatoi-s shoiihl he familiar 
 with the construction of a garment from first to hist — not in the 
 sense of being able to make it necessarily, hut so that her own part 
 of the process may be properly located together with its significance 
 and relation to those coming before and after. An analysis has been 
 made of those departments where girls are employed so that these 
 details might be available. The operations are described in such a 
 way as might l)e called a Standard Operation Sheet, though that 
 was not the purpose. They describe operations as they are now 
 performed. This analysis meets two needs, first, as indicated above ; 
 and second, to provide a basis for more thorough instruction on spe- 
 cific operations by noting points which might otherwise escape at- 
 tention. 
 
 In this study there is no repetition of data wjiich is general enough 
 to appear in Section V. In any job where such information is re- 
 quired, .but is not peculiar to this job alone, the fact is inferred by 
 the expression, "nothing s]H'cial" or "nothing additional." 
 
 Overall Department 
 
 Three types of overalls are made, namely the pant overall, the bib 
 overall, and the one-piece overall. The pant overall comes only to 
 the waist line. The bib overall is waist high at the back, but has 
 a bib covering tlie eliest. Usually no jacket is worn with this 
 garment, l)ut it mux be worn. The one-piece overall is a continuous 
 garment, buttoning from neck to crotch. 
 
 The making of a complete bil) overall may be described by stei)s 
 as follows : 
 
 No. I 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Pocket girl 
 First part girl 
 
 Seamer 
 
 Second part girl 
 
 Feller 
 
 Hemmer 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Marker 
 Button tacker 
 Strap maker 
 Buckler 
 Sorter 
 
 Folder 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 Sew on hip and rule pockets. 
 
 Hem side facings, put on seat-pieces, make and sew in fron' 
 
 swing pockets, sew in fly, hem button side. 
 Join backs together, join fronts and backs together at out- 
 side seams, Join halves of bib together. 
 Hem bib, make and sew on bib-pocket, join fronts together, 
 
 join bib to front sew on backhand, tack outside seams. 
 Join fronts and backs together at inside seams. 
 Hem bottoms of legs. 
 Examine all previous workmanship, check for defects in 
 
 goods. 
 Make fly (for first part girl), make buttonholes in strap 
 
 tabs, make side opening buttonholes, make buttonhole 
 
 for watch chain. 
 Mark for buttons. 
 Put on patent buttons. 
 Make suspenders or straps. 
 Put slides and loops on straps. 
 Sort all overalls by sizes, tie dozens after folding, pack in 
 
 truck for stock room. 
 Put straiis on bib, fold, stack in dozens of uniform size. 
 
 The overalls to be made up e()in<> from tlie cutting ro(»m in l)undles 
 of twenty-fours, each l)nndle having in it all the parts which are 
 
30 
 
 to be sewn toji'ether to make tweiity-fdur complete overalls. There 
 is a tag' with each bundle to show tlie lot number, bundle number, 
 and blank spaces for the payroll numbers of the operators who make 
 up particular parts. Each l)undle is opened and the parts distrib- 
 uted to those operators who have particular things to do on tliem. 
 After an operator finislies her part of the work on each of the 
 twenty-four overalls, the parts on which she has worked are tied 
 into a bundle with the operator's number written on the card, and 
 turned in to the desk girl, who makes a record before giving out 
 the bundle to tlie next ojierator. 
 
 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 
 
 In actual factory production the overalls are nuule l)y units or 
 bundles of twenty-four pairs. The oi)erator does some operations 
 singly. That is it is reiieated twenty-four times before the next 
 operation is l)egiin. Sometimes tlie operations go in pairs, that is, 
 it is best to do two of tliem on one piec- of goods while it is under 
 the machine than to do only one l)efore proceeding to a similar piece 
 of the next pair of overalls. Similarly it is possil)le to have oper- 
 ations grouped in threes, fours and ])erhaps fives. There is always 
 a great need for study to grou)) these operations in the best way. 
 Where pieces are cut in ])airs, as in sleeves, with rights and lefts it 
 is usual to go through an operation alternately on a right and then 
 on a left or vice versa, until the twenty-four pairs of rights aiul lefts 
 have been put through. 
 
 In the detailed anal>-sis wliich follows it is not always possible to 
 indicate exactly a factory process. The orders will appear as if 
 only one pair of overalls is being made, but tlu' reader should be 
 able to visualize the process with a "factory eye." 
 
 PAYROLL JOB -POCKET GIRL 
 
 Tlie ])ocket gii'l operates a two-needle machine, which sews two 
 rows of stitches about V4" ai)art. She makes and sews two lii])- 
 pockets and a rule-pocket onto the backs of the overall. 
 
 1. Hem top edge of hip-})ockets : Put pocket outside on machine 
 
 right side up. Fold %" under and stitch once across. 
 
 2. Hem slanting face of rule pocket : As in 1. 
 
 '4. Sew on left hip-pocket : Put left back in machine right side 
 up. Place ]K)cket with top edge at punch-marks. Folding 
 under edge in front of the needle, tack right top corner, 
 stitch around jxtcket to left toj) and tack. 
 
 4. Sew on right hip-pocket : As in 8, on right back. 
 
 5. Sew on rule-pocket: Place ])ocket just below right hip-pocket 
 
 even with outside edge of back. Folding in edges, tack and 
 sew down and around from side-seam corner to lefl lop 
 corner then aci'oss to]) to slanting face and tack. 
 
31 
 
 Auxiliary Infonuation 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Material — hip and riile-poeket i)ieees, hacks, \vhit( cotton tln-ead. 
 
 Tools — two-needle tlat-hed machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — hemmin«i', t'oldin*!' under, tnrnin;^- in, separatinu', 
 
 pairin<>', stitching', tackinji'. 
 Location — top edge, right side of cloth up, slanting face, left 
 and right side of garment, punch-marks, right and left top 
 corners, below, outside edge, side seam. 
 Stock: 
 
 Recognition — ])lain blue, white or khaki denim, striped denim, 
 A\'eight hy description on tags, all parts by shape, rights and 
 lefts, Xo. oO upper thread. No. 36 lower or loop thread. 
 Working properties — cloth is heavy and somewhat stiif for fold- 
 ing, dulling and breaking needles frecpiently. 
 Safety : Folding under and hemmiiig is done with fingers, Avhich 
 
 are protected by a needle guard. 
 Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing : None. 
 
 Mathematics: Folding under %" by eye, si)acing pockets side- 
 wise accurate to i/4" either way. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
 The first-part girl makes and joins together various parts of both 
 fronts and backs of the overall, operating a one-needle machine. 
 Most of the work is on the fronts, as the ily, swing pockets and fac- 
 ing of side openings. On larger sized overalls the cloth is not wide 
 enough to cut the backs out complete, so small triangular pieces 
 have to be added to the crotch or seat. The cutters make small 
 notches on edge of cloth at all necessary points to locate positions 
 for joining or folding. 
 
 1. Sew on seat-pieces: Put left back inside the machine wrong 
 side up, placing corresponding seat-piece beneath it right 
 side up, and seam edge extending out about %". Stitch 
 once down and pull out the seat-i)iece from beneath into 
 place. Move l)ack i)iece around to outside position on the 
 machine, fold edge of seat-piece seam flat and sew down 
 along the edge. Re]ieat with right back piece. Trim off 
 ends of seams. 
 L'. Hem side facings on backs: Put riglit back inside machine 
 wrong side up. Fold over hem for side opening 1/4" wide at 
 lower side notch and as far as notch on top of back. Stitch 
 down from top and out at l)ottom i'(\*x(' of hem (edging out). 
 Repeat \vith left back, sewing upwards from bottom of fac- 
 ing. 
 3. Sewing swing-pocket facings to di-ill : Put drill flat on ma 
 chine, inside of pocket face up. Lay denim facing on drill 
 
32 
 
 right side up with ano'ular corners and edii'es corresponding. 
 Stitch around inner edge of facing. Make rights and lefts 
 in pairs. 
 
 4. Make button side of fiy : Place right front inside on machine 
 
 wrong side up. FoUl over from side cut to notch on top. 
 Turn in edge of this facing and stitch from top down and 
 edge out at bottom. 
 
 5. Make button liolc side of fly: Put h'ft front inside on machine 
 
 w^rong side up. Fohl over from side cut to notch on top. 
 Lay fly (see button-hole girl) over this fold with its folded 
 edge 1/16" inside the lower fold. Stitch from edge at bot- 
 tom end of fly up just back of the buttonholes straight out 
 at top edge. Trim ofl extra goods at top end. 
 (). Put swing pockets in fronts : Place left front outside on ma- 
 chine right side up. Lay drill for pocket flat underneath 
 with inside of pocket face down, locating by notches on top 
 and side. Fold under from notch to notch to form oblique 
 facing for pocket, and stitch down Vi" (a "foot") away 
 from edge. Roll tlie entire front over onto inside of machine 
 wrong side up. Fold drill over to form the pocket, match- 
 ing notches at lower side seam (pocket now inside out) 
 Stitch bottom of pocket from notches over to folded edg«. 
 and tack at eiul of run. Roll the front over pocket back 
 into outside i)osilion again. Pull drill pocket through itself 
 to bring right side in, and at the same time bring triangular 
 d(>nim facing into i)osition just beneath and squaring out 
 the shape of front at oblique edge of front pocket-facing. 
 Stitch across top edge of front and triangular facing. Lay 
 button-stay wrong side up on the front at side opening and 
 sew from top to bottom at edge. Fold stay-piece underneath 
 front, stitching up to top near the edge and return a "foot" 
 away for a double seam, tacking at bottom angle of swing 
 pocket in process of last downward seam. Repeat with right 
 front swing pocket. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Material — seat-pieces, backs, swing pocket di-ill, triangular 
 pocket facings, buttonhole fly, l)uttoii-stay, white cotton 
 thread. 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 Operations — folding under, folding over, hemming, edging out, 
 
 stitching, matching notches, i)ulling inside out, tacking. 
 Location — wrong and right side up, outside and inside on ma- 
 machine, on to]i and beneath, right and left, side openings, 
 a "foot" away, bottom angle of swing pocket, notches at cer- 
 tain points. 
 
33 
 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — (Icniiii, drill, pni'ls hy shape. No. 30 upper, No. 3() 
 lower thread. 
 
 Workino' properties — notliiiii:' additional. 
 Safety : Notliing special. 
 Care of tools: Nothiii<i' special. 
 I)rawiii<>' and Science: None. 
 Mathematics: Measurin«i' %", Vi" «iic^ 1/1(5" by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— S3AMER 
 
 The seanier operates a two-needle tlat bed machine with folding- 
 attachment, to joi]i together certain ])ai'ts of tlie overall before it 
 goes to the second stage of one-needle work. 
 
 1. Join right and left backs : Place hacks in folder right side np. 
 
 stitching from top to crotch. 
 
 2. Join outside of legs: Put bottom ends of left front and back 
 
 outside and inside resiiectively on macliine, right side up. 
 Insert in folder and sew from bottom to notch at side fac- 
 ing. (Side seams must always face back, that is, front?, 
 always over backs). Similarly put top ends at right front 
 and back in folder, sewing from notch at bottom of side facing 
 to bottom of leg. 
 
 3. Seam bib: Put right and left halves right side up in folder, 
 
 stitching fi-om top to bottom. 
 Aux iliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — backs, fronts, bib-])ieces, white and colored thread. 
 Tools — tw^o-needle machine, folder, scissors. 
 Operation — seaming. 
 
 Location — right side up, fronts over backs, rights and lefts, 
 crotch, bottom, side facing notches, setting folder fair, and 
 forward or back to suit goods. White thread always in 
 needle, any color for lowei' oi* looji thread. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — parts by shapes. No. 30 upper and No. 36 lower 
 
 thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety: Nothing special. 
 Care of tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SECOND PART GIRL 
 The second part girl continues with a single-needle machine the 
 joining work which was interrupted by the seaming process. 
 
 1. Hem bib : But bib inside on machine wrong side up. Fold 
 over and turn in a %" hem, stitching uj) right side of l)ib, 
 across top and down left side. 
 
34 
 
 2. Hem toi) and watch sides of bib-poeket : Lay iiocket outside on 
 
 machine wrong side up. Fold top and watch side over and 
 stitch along edge returning a "foot" away. 
 
 3. Sew pocket on bd) : Put l)ib in machine right side up, and 
 
 place pocket in ])osition on left half. Turn in edge opposite 
 watch side, tacking at tn\) then sewing down and around 
 bottom to bottom of watch opening, and finishing with a 
 tack. Return a "foot" away for double seam to lower 
 back corner. Stitch obliquely up the back edge to a 1" 
 opening between steams, forming a pencil pocket. Tack top 
 of pencil-pocket seam and also at top of watch opening. 
 
 4. Tack top of side steams : Put garment in machine right side 
 
 ui), making a cross tacking at bottom of each side opening. 
 
 .■). Join fronts at bottom of fly: Lay i)arts right side up with 
 right inside and left outside on machine. Lay buttonhole 
 side over button side in position and turn in edge below fly 
 to icrotch. Sew up edge of turned in part %" onto fly. 
 Make a 1" cross tacking. Break tliread and return to crotch 
 on wrong side, width of foot from edge. 
 
 (). .Join bil) to front: Put garment in machine right side up, lay- 
 ing buttonhole side of fly over button side in position. Stitch 
 across top of fly. Lay bib on top of garment wrong side up 
 with joining edges even. Put bib facing under garment 
 wrong side up, that is, with the tliree layers lying edges 
 even and like sides of cloth together. Join three layers to- 
 gether across top edge from right to left. Turn bib over 
 into position and sew back a ' ' foot ' ' aAvay from left to right 
 side. Turn garment over with wrong side up. Fold over 
 bib-facing into position and trim ends. Turn in edges of 
 bib-facing at ends and along top, sewing with a single seam 
 around edge. 
 
 7. Join backhand t(» overalls: Lay two halves of backhand in 
 macliine right sides together and sew once across. Open 
 ov^t full length and flatten seam edges. Put back of garment 
 in machine wrong side up and lay back band over it wrong- 
 side up wath top edges even. Stitch once across. Fold back- 
 band over into position. Turn garment right side up in ma- 
 chine and fold backhand over to cover last seam. Turn in 
 ends and lower edge and sew all around four edges of back- 
 band. When within about 6" of right end of backhand in- 
 sert label under foot and sew once around it before com- 
 l)leting seam. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — l)ib, bib-pocket, bib-facing, partly assembled overall 
 
 or garment, backhand, label, white thread. 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 
35 
 
 OptTjit ions - licimniii^', foldiiiu- over, t iii'iiiiii;' in. Ijickiiit:', scw- 
 
 in<i', Iriiinnin.u', joiniiiLi'. 
 Location — rijiht iuul wroiiii' side np, like sides toLi-etliei', outside 
 and inside on nuudiiiic, a "foot" away, walcli side, biittonliole 
 side, l)utt()n side, top and bottom of fly, over and nnderneath, 
 ci-oteli, backhand, riiilit and left. 
 Stock : 
 
 Reco<inition — all ])arts l)y shapes, No. :i() uppei' and Xo. ."!() bob- 
 bin thread. 
 Workinfi' properties — nothiniz' additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing- special. 
 Drawinij' and Science : None. 
 Mathematics: Measurinji' %", •;4" and 1" by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 
 
 The fellinii' uirl operates a special two-needb' machine made with 
 its sewing- head extendiiiu' forward towards the operator, and clear 
 of the table tdge about twelve inches, thus making clearance for 
 imshing closed-in ])arts like b'gs or sleeves back past the needle 
 where they may gather aronnd the arm-like bed. There is a folder 
 attachment which turns in the goods one side over the other. The 
 job is confined to closing in legs, sleeves and bodies of garments. 
 1. Put inside edges of bottom of right leg in folder right side out 
 (always fronts over backs), and stitch tlirongh to crotch and 
 continue down left leg to bottom. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials-— garment, white and black or khaki ihrt-ad. 
 Tools — felling machine, folder, scissors. 
 Operations — felling. 
 
 Location — right and left, bottom, crotch, right side out. AVhite 
 thread in needle, any color for lower or loop thread. 
 Stock: 
 
 Recognition — garment, No. .']() up])er. No. o(i lower thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL .JOB— HEMMER 
 
 The hemming girl ojierates a one-needle special machim> whicli 
 has a head j)ointing forward in advance of the table allowing the 
 ovei'all leg to be pushed easily into jilace under the needle. A spe- 
 cial foldei- attachment turns in the bottom once then once again. 
 , 1. Hem bottoms of overall : Place bottom of leg of garment 
 
 around bed. Put upper side into the folder and sew once 
 
 ai'ound. Repeat with other leg. 
 
36 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — overall, white thread. 
 
 Tools — one-needle special machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — hemming. 
 
 Location — bottdm of overall le<^'. 
 ytock : 
 
 No. 30 upper and No. 36 bobbin thread. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing- special. 
 Drawiniz', Science and Mathenjatics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 
 
 The examiner insi)ects all ])revi()us worknuinsliip on the overalls. 
 
 1. Measure inseani to check len<i-th of leg- with label. 
 
 2. Examine for straight seams, taekings, run-offs, raw edges, skip- 
 
 stitches on side facings, outside and inside seams and bottom 
 finish. Check even lengtli of Itack and front of side oi)en- 
 ings. 
 
 3. Examine outside as in 2 on joining seams, fly, swing pockets, 
 
 l)il) and bib-pocket. 
 
 4. P]xamine inside as in 2 on fly, joining seam, seat pieces, 1)il)- 
 
 facing, l)ack seams and backhand. 
 T). Examine outside as in 2 on hip and rub^-i^ockets, seat-i)ieces, 
 back seam, backhand and label. 
 
 6. Measure waist size to check with label. 
 
 7. Snip all ravels and odd thread ends wliile in jirocess of exaniin- 
 
 ing 2-5 al)ove. 
 
 8. Chalk mark all repair woi-k to l)e repaired and send to oper- 
 
 ators to repair. 
 !). Examine for tears or cuts, thin spots or otlier defects in goods. 
 Stamp label on defective garments as "seconds." 
 10. Re-examine all returned repaii- work. 
 Auxiliary Information. t 
 
 Trade "Terms: 
 
 Materials — overalls, all i»;uis by name. 
 
 Tools — yard-scale on edge of examining table, scissors, tailor's 
 
 chalk, rubl)er stamp and pad. 
 Operations — Examining, inspecting, checking, chalking, stamj)- 
 
 ing, placing in repair box. 
 Location — All parts l)y name. 
 
 Special — Run-olfs, ski]) stitclies, raw edges, thin spots, straight 
 seams, lie even. 
 Stock : 
 
 RecogJiition — Parts diffei-ing in color by vai-yiiig shades of blue 
 
 or khaki, weight of goods by its thickness. 
 Working properties — None. 
 Safetv and Care of Tools : None. 
 
37 
 
 Drawing' and Rcienco..: None. 
 
 Malliciiialics : Measuring' on yiwd stick in iiiclics. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 
 
 The buttonhole pirl has three separate jobs to perform on the 
 overalls. She prepares the button-side of fly for the first part girl. 
 She also puts buttonholes in the tabs of the suspender straps after 
 they are made but before they <i'o to the bucklers. Lastly she puts 
 all needed buttonholes in the overall itself. The buttonhole machine 
 is a special, which sews all around *where the hole is to be then cuts 
 the cloth. Some machines have a cording- attachment which re- 
 inforces the edge of the hole with a heavy black cord bound inside 
 of the stitching. Holes are reinforced at side openings, on strap- 
 tabs, and for watch chain in bib, but the fly buttonholes are not 
 reinforced (done on a smaller machine). All machines make what 
 is called a pearl stitch, using number 30 thread. 
 
 1. Make buttonholes in fly: Fold goods over lengthwise right 
 
 side out, with upper edge lying 14" inside the lower. Turn 
 fly over and mark tiie first of the lot with a gauge according 
 to its size for number and position of holes. (Others of that 
 size need not be marked.) Place in machine folded edge 
 first, marked side up and make the three or four holes in 
 series. 
 
 2. Make strap-tab buttonholes : Place tab end of suspender end- 
 
 wise into machine and make hole in center of the goods. 
 
 3. Make buttonholes on overall : Set garment in machine right 
 
 side up at desired ])ositioii, making lioles in the following 
 order — two at right side (>])ening, one in bib for watch chain, 
 two at left side oix-ning. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials— overalls, strains, buttonhole flys, reinforcing cord, 
 
 No. 30 thread in needle and bol)bin. 
 Tools-Especial buttonhole machines, scissors, marking gauges. 
 Operations — folding over, nuirking, stitching holes. 
 Location — side ojx'nings, bil) t<ip, strap tabs. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — lot numbers by sizes. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing : Marking at notches in gauge. 
 Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics: Spacing holes by eye, correct to 14" on % aii(^ 
 side openings, and to Ys" on ends of backhand. 
 
PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 
 
 The marker locates positions for buttons in advance of the patent 
 l)nttou tacker. 
 
 1. Mark fly: Lay ov<-rall on table fi'ont side down, and turn 
 
 baekband down to ex])ose inside of fly. Turn ediie of button 
 side back over far enough to show part of bnt1onhol(>s. Chalk 
 button side opposite each hole. 
 
 2. Mark side ojienings : Replace backhand and straighten gar- 
 
 ment out fiat. Mai-k for button at middle of side openings. 
 Band buttons nt>ed jione. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 T]-ade Terms : 
 
 Matei-ials -ovei-alls. 
 Tools — tailor's chalk. 
 
 Operations — laying out Hat. folding Itack, mai-king. 
 Location — button and buttonhole sides of iiy, side openings^ 
 baekband. 
 Stock: Nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Di'awing : Markiiig positions with chalk. 
 Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON TACKER 
 The button girl operates a patent tack button machine which 
 l)ushes the metal tack part of the button up through the cloth and 
 clinches it inside the button i)roi)er. It can-ies magazines and dies 
 for two sizes, smaller ones for the fly and a larger size for sides 
 and suspenders. The magazines, called cu]»s or turrets, are in 
 pairs, one feeding tacks and the other buttons down through tlie 
 ways to the dies. 
 
 L Put on fly buttons: Place front of button side u\) in machine 
 on small size die. Set according to mark and press treadle, 
 repeating at required luimber of marks. 
 2. Put on side and suspender buttons : Put overall under large 
 size die right side up, attaching buttons in the following or- 
 der : two at opposite corners of bib, two at left side open- 
 ing, two on backhand for suspenders, two at right side open- 
 ing (all but lower side buttons i)ut on without nuirks). 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade 'Terms: 
 
 Materials — overalls, buttons and tacks. 
 Tools — special patent button tacker. 
 Operations — tacking. 
 Location — as in 2 above. 
 Stock : 
 Recognition — buttons and tacks, each in separate cartons, sizes 
 indicated by "lines," as 22-line or 27-line buttons. 
 
Workiii;^' |)i-()|)cr1it'.s -Imlloiis jam in dies aiid miss liitliii«j,' fair. 
 Safety: Tse a wii'c lo fisli out jammed hiillons. P\dl off (hd'ee- 
 
 live buttons with pliei-s and noteiied sleel plale. 
 Care of Tools: Clian.uc dies for different kinds of l.ullons. 
 
 Drawing' and Seienee: None. 
 Mathematics: Spaeinj^' hnltons hy eye eon'eel lo ' |" for sus- 
 penders, l/Ki" foi- ends of hihdxdt, and exactly on side marks. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— STRAPMAKER 
 
 The strapmaker works uj) tlie suspenders completely with excep- 
 tion of buttonholes and wire slides and loops. She opei-ates a one- 
 needh^ machine. 
 
 1. -loin web and tab: ( 'u1 (dastic web into hMi<<tlis. Lay tab- 
 
 piece insicb' on ma(dnin\ wi-ong' si(h' uj) and fohl over %" of 
 outside edge. Lay end of web on tins fold %" from far 
 coi'uer and ta(d< the two touethei'. l^'old ovei- nearest ed«i'e 
 to far ed<i'e, swiiiLi' tab into outside position on matdiine and 
 sew aci'oss to •;s" from edt-c. T>irn in edges of both \ipper 
 and lower layers of tab then complete stitching. Turn in 
 side edges to end of tab and sew till %" from bottom end of 
 tab. Turn in both layers of l)ottom end and comi)l('te stitch- 
 ing around and up folded edge to web. 
 
 2. Make straps and join to web: Place strai) on machine \vrong 
 
 side up. Fold over lengthwise as far as side cut for strap 
 part. Turning in edges of botli upper and lowau* layers along 
 side and at end, sew all arouiul the double portion of strap. 
 Fold over opi)osite end of remaining i)art '■%<", 1^7 ^ree end 
 of web over it ami tack the two together. Rei)eat with an- 
 other stra}), forming right and left of a paii". 
 o. -loin sti-aps together: Lay a ])air one over the othei- right sides 
 together, and stitch the joining i)arts togethei- in line with 
 folded edge of sti-ap and tab. Pull out Hat and laj^ wrong 
 side up. Lay facing piece right side up over the joining 
 seam. Turn in all four edges of facing and sew all around to 
 cover seams and complete the joining. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — elastic webs, top ])ieces, strap-])ieces, facing-piece. 
 
 No. 30 and 36 white thread. 
 Tools — one-needle flat-top machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — separating, tacking, folding over, turning in, stitch- 
 ing. 
 Location — right and left, joining part, right and wrong sides 
 up, No. 36 thread in bobbin. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — elastic web in lengths of a dozen pieces trade 
 
40 
 
 marked and spotted for separating' with scissors, (dotli parts 
 by name and shape. 
 Workin<>' properties — notliin^' spf^eial. 
 Safet}' and Care of Tools: Notliintz- special. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics : Measnring %" hy eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUCKLER 
 
 The buckle girl adds the wire loops and slides to suspender straps 
 after they have come from the huttonholer. T)ie loop is the part 
 which hooks over the bib-button, and the slide is foi- adjusting length 
 of strap. 
 
 1. Put on slides and loops : Draw 10" or 12" of strap end through 
 slide over middle bar and about (i" back tlirough slide again. 
 Put loop over free end of strap. Put this end up inside over 
 middle bar of slide and back inside belov/ it with i/o" free 
 end. Draw outer i)art of str.-ip down through slide to hold 
 free end in ])lace. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — straps, slides, loops. 
 Tools — none. 
 
 Operations — drawing through, sliding on. 
 
 Location — over and umler middle bar of slide, inside and out- 
 side strap. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — strai) end of susi)eiuler, loops and slides in cartons. 
 Working properties — straps stiff to ])ull tlu'ough. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing and Science: None. 
 Mathematics: Measuring 10" or 12", (i" and Vl>" I'y fJ^- 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SORTER 
 
 The sorter may have two duties, the main one of sorting coming 
 first in preparation for the folders, and the second, tjdng up bundles, 
 following after the folders are through. If work is coming through 
 in large volume this job may be divided on that l)asis so that the 
 sorter would be confined to the one operation only. It follows after 
 the button tacker is through. 
 
 1. Sorting overalls by sizes: Bring lots from bins to sorting 
 
 table. Sort by Avaist-size and leg-length mmdx'rs on label. 
 Pile in stacks by sizes for folders. 
 
 2. Tie in dozens after folders : Hang a bunch tie strings about 
 
 neck. Place string around dozen near one end, slipping end 
 through the wire loop and drawing tight. Pull end into 
 grip of the wire loop and put a half loop on to hold. Pack 
 tied dozens in elevator truck. 
 
41 
 
 Auxiliary Iiifonuation 
 Trade Tei-ms: 
 
 Materials — overalls. 
 
 Tools — tyin^' strings. 
 
 Operations — sortiii;^', stacking', t\iii<^', i)aekiii<i'. 
 
 Loeation — sortin.u', staekiii.u' and f()l(liii<>' tables. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recofinition — label numbers indicatin<>' first waist size and sec- 
 ond leng-th of leg- in inches, as 40-31, 40-32, 38-32, 36-33, etc. 
 
 Working properties — nothing. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing and Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FOLDER 
 
 The folder, as the name indicates, arranges the overall into neat 
 and compact shape for packing, so folding it that the lal^el sewn to 
 the right end of backhand is easily seen by those handling the gar- 
 ment afterwards. 
 
 1. Folding: Lay overalls flat on table front n\). Button strap 
 tabs to bib, and fold both under at belt line inside the gar- 
 ment. Fold right side to left side bringing label on top. 
 Reverse with label below and fold bottoms to belt. Stack in 
 dozens of uniform size, half of stack being placed end for end 
 to balance its shape. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — overalls, suspender straps. 
 Tools — none. 
 
 Operations — l)uttoning, folding, counting, checking sizes. 
 Location — inside, front down, front up, end for end. 
 Stock: Nothing additional. 
 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics : Counting in half and full dozens. 
 
 Sleeping Wear Department 
 
 The slee]iing garments for adults are made exclusively in this 
 departmeiit, which is the most extensive from standpoint of quantity 
 and variety of product. Four main types of garment are made, 
 nightgowns and shirts, pajama suits, pajunions, and pajunettes. 
 Some special garments are made such as heavy woolen, hooded, out- 
 door sleeping gowns, but these form a negligible item. In addition 
 to the different sizes in the four main lines, there are very many 
 varieties and designs of finish, so that operators are provided with a 
 great many changes. During the winter season the factory works 
 on summer varieties of sleeping garments, and the summer is spent 
 
42 
 
 in working up next winter's supply of flannel garments. In all there 
 are some 125 varieties of sleeping garments to make, ranging from 
 the extremely plain to the most ornate. 
 
 Ladies' nightgowns, men"s niglitsliirts, and pajamas are familiar 
 enough to need no delining. Tlie j^ajniiioiis and i)ajunettes are fancy 
 styles of ladies' sleeping wear made somewliat after the fashion of 
 the men's pajamas. The pajunion is a union of the pajama jacket 
 and i)ants into one garment, the joining being made at the waist, 
 and the jacket extending down around the l)ody for 8" or 10" out- 
 side. The pajunions are simply hemmed at the bottoms. Pajunettes 
 are the still more ornate styles, made in one piece, without the 
 jacket effect, and having elastic inserted at the bottoms, or being 
 completely footed. Various special machines are in use for briar- 
 stitching, hemstitching, wave-stitching, and the use of braid and 
 ribbons for trimming extends the scope of the department to an 
 unlimited degree. 
 
 Winter garments are made almost exidusively of flannelette in 
 white, pinks and blues, either plain oi- with woven stripes of differ- 
 ing shades and colors. Summer garments are made from prints, 
 cambrics, silks, satins, soisetTe and oilier trade names for i)roducts 
 of cotton and silk. 
 
 The cut goods come from the cutting room in l)undles of twenty- 
 four. All accessory materials like l)raid, ribbon, loops, buttons, etc., 
 are lu'ought in boxes or crates from the stores department where 
 tliey W(M-e assend)led according to tlie descri])tive sheet ready for 
 
 No. 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Work .Job3 
 
 1 
 
 Girdle maker 
 
 Pants — Make girdles. 
 Jacket— 0. 
 
 
 2 
 
 Seamer 
 
 Pants — make outseams, sew on seat-pieces, joii 
 Jacket-- 0. 
 
 1 backs. 
 
 3 
 
 First part girl 
 
 Pants — Hem or tassel ends of girdle, make fly, hem top. join 
 
 
 
 fronts. 
 
 
 
 
 Jacket — Make yoke and neck-facings, sew on 
 
 pocket, join 
 
 
 
 shoulders, sew on yoke, hem fronts. 
 
 
 4 
 
 Sleeve piecer 
 
 Pants— 0. 
 
 Jacket -Join sleeve-pieces. 
 
 
 5 
 
 Sleeve maker 
 
 Pants— 0. 
 
 Jacket— Sew on cuffs, tack at wrist. 
 
 
 6 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Pants — Inspect previous workmanship. 
 Jacket — Inspect previous workmanship. 
 
 
 7 
 
 Bundle boy 
 
 Pants — 0. 
 
 Jacket— ^latch sleeve and body bundles. 
 
 
 8 
 
 Sleever 
 
 Pants— 0. 
 
 Jacket — Join sleeves to body. 
 
 
 9 
 
 Feller 
 
 Pants— Fell inseams. 
 
 Jacket — Fell sleeves and sides. 
 
 
 10 
 
 Marker 
 
 Pants — Mark for fly buttons. 
 
 Jacket — Mark for buttonholes, mark for buttons 
 
 
 11 
 
 Loop girl 
 
 Pants— 0. 
 
 Jacket — Sew loops or frogs on front. 
 
 
 12 
 
 Hemmer 
 
 Pants — Hem bottoms. 
 Jacket — Hem bottom. 
 
 
 13 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Pants— 0. 
 
 
 
 
 Jacket — Inspect sleeving, felling, hemming, and 
 
 looi)s. 
 
 14 
 
 Buttonholer 
 
 Pants-Make buttonholes in fly. 
 
 Jacket — Make buttonholes through loops. 
 
 
 15 
 
 Button sewer 
 
 Pants — Sew on fly buttons. 
 Jacket — Sew on front buttons. 
 
 
43 
 
 use wlicu t'cillcd foi-. Mmii>' of these Hceessorics are in l()t-leii<i'ths 
 and re(|uire to be eiit into iiKlividual pieees by the ()])ei-at<)i- when 
 needed. 
 
 For pui-jjoses of ^cttiii^' iiist ruelional material in the opei-atioii of 
 tliis de]»ai'tnient it will he suf^'ieient to make a study of two typieal 
 standard garments — the ])ajama suit, and inji'ht g-own. The night 
 gown has one-i)iece fronts and hacks witli yoke construction, while 
 the pajama suit has open coat and pants construction. 
 
 An airplane view of the making of a typical pajama suit will show 
 the organization outlined on page 42. 
 
 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 
 
 The fact that there are two parts to the suit makes it possible to 
 organize production on the parts individually or with the suit as a 
 unit. Of two tirst part girls, one may work exclusively on pants and 
 the other on jackets, or each may work on l)oth ]:»arts. The organi- 
 zation scheduled above may be used either way. In the analysis 
 which follows, the form adopted will be simply an expansion of the 
 outline just presented. The form may appear to read as if but one 
 suit is being made. I)i all eases i1 is necessary to int(M'pi'(>t (pian- 
 tity production on the basis of units or bundles of twenty-four. In 
 some cases one single operation will be done on each of twenty-four 
 pieces of the garment. Sometimes the oi)erator will do two oper- 
 ations on the i)iece while it is in the macdiine before taking the next 
 similar piece. In this Avay she may lunc studied and experimented 
 until she has found for herself that pieees nuiy have one, two, three 
 or four operations performed wliib^ going through once, according 
 to conditions, parts, and her own skill. This study results in higher 
 speed, and consequently higher wages on the piece-rate basis. 
 Sleeves and other duplicate parts usually go through in pairs, that is. 
 one operation done on a right will be done ])erhaps in a reverse order 
 on the left before the next right is put under the machine. 
 
 It should be noted particularly that auxiliary infornuition which is 
 common to all payroll jolts and woi-k jobs has not been i-epeaird each 
 time a job is analyzed. The words "nothing additional,'" "jiothing 
 si)ecial," or "none" do not mean that if a girl is being taught some 
 particular payroll job where such words are used descriptively, she 
 has nothing on these points to l)e taught. It does mean that for 
 sake of saving endless repetition of this data, it has been stated 
 elsewhere in this study as common or general auxiliary knowledge, 
 which must be taught to this girl now, and that on these items there 
 is no s))eeial information peculiar to tliis job Avhich requires teach- 
 ing in addition to the general facts. This general information 
 includes instruction on ])roperties of materials used, on operating 
 principles of machines, on their care, and on factory procedure and 
 organization. 
 
44 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— GIRDLE MAKER 
 
 The girdle maker operates a special two-needle machine and folder. 
 It is used also for making' what is called continuous facing, but the 
 work is identical exce])t for lengtli of the ])ieces put through. The 
 needles are spaced about five-eiglith inches apart, and the folder 
 doubles the cloth strip over, turns in both raw edges forming a strap 
 about ^" wide which is tlnni sewed along the edges. The girdles 
 are sewn in half-lengths and are joined by the first part girl later. 
 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Make girdles : Feed strips of cloth into the folder. Count out 
 l)undles of 48 half-lengths. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — girdle stock, thread. 
 
 Tools — special two-needle flat-bed machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — feeding the folder, counting out bundles. 
 
 Location — setting folder fair, keejung edges of stock runnin<* 
 out against the edge of folder. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — girdle ])ieces hy shape, Xo. (SO white tliread. 
 
 Working ])roperties — Nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics: Counting in forty-eights. 
 
 B. Jacket : Nothing. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SEAMER 
 
 The seamer operates a two-needle flat-bed machine Avith folder. 
 The operations have to do with preparing the pants for the first part 
 girl. With extra large sizes of pajama pants it becomes necessary to 
 cut and make w^ith an outseam, but otherwise there is none. This job 
 is done first if needed, and the leg piece treated thereafter as if there 
 were no seam in it. 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Make outseams if recpiired : Lay front part of right leg inside 
 
 and back part outside on machine right side up. Place in 
 folder and sew from top to l)ottom of seam. Lay parts of 
 left leg in same relation, l)ut sew from bottom to top. 
 
 2. Sew on seat-pieces : Put right leg outside on machine, right 
 
 side up, and insert in lower part of folder. Place correspond- 
 ing seat-piece in upper part of folder, sewing from l)ottom 
 upwards. Put left leg inside on machine right side up, and 
 insert in upper part of folder. Place corresponding seat- 
 piece in lower part of folder and sew from bottom upwards. 
 8. Seam right and left legs together at back : Put right and left 
 legs in lower and upper parts of folder as they lie at finish 
 of operation 2 above. Stitch from crotch to top of goods. 
 
45 
 
 B. Jacket : Nothing. 
 Anx iliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — leg'-pieces, seat-pieces, thread. 
 Tools — two-needle flat top machine, scissors. 
 Operations — seaming, joining. 
 
 Location — top and bottom of ontseams, seat-piece seams, joining 
 seam, crotch. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — parts by name and shape, Xo. 80 white thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
 
 The first part girl does a nnmber of single needle oi^erations. On 
 the ])ants she practically finishes the garment, since it only remains 
 to have the bottoms hemmed and the buttons sewn on the fly after 
 it leaves this machine. On the jacket she does all the single needle 
 work. In a sense therefore the name of the payroll job is a mis- 
 nomer, since there is no second part or stage of single needle work 
 to be done as there is in making the gown. The name sticks how- 
 ever, because it is single needle constrnction which constitutes the 
 main part of making all garments. 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Hem, or hem and tassel, ends of girdle: If simply hemmed, 
 
 fold over Y/' and once again, sewing across and tacking. If 
 a tassel is added, lay base of tassel on hem before sewing a 
 box tack. 
 
 2. Make fly : Put left front of garment outside on machine right 
 
 side up. Lay buttonhole fly (see buttonholer) over with its 
 raw edge even with raw edge of front, and top end I/2" above 
 the lower of two notches on front edge, near the top corner. 
 Sew %" from raw edges, starting at bottom and ending at 
 top of buttonhole piece. Lay left front inside on machine 
 wrong side up. Fold fly over so as to bring its folded edge 
 just even with folded edge of goods to which it is sewn. Turn 
 in back edge of fly and se\\- from bottom end clear through 
 to top of garment. Put button side outside on machine 
 wrong side up. Lay button-stay underneath wrong side up 
 with edges even and top end at upper of two notches on 
 front edge of button-side. Sew along edges from bottom of 
 stay to lower of two notches on front edge of button side, 
 then sew from this notch across button-stay until 1/2" from 
 its inner edge. Tack end of this run. Cut with scissors 
 through two layers of goods across the button-stay just above 
 the last seam and as far as the tacking. Trim out the per- 
 
46 
 
 tion of l)iitt()ii-stay only aljovc the cut just made. Tni-ii huttoi) 
 stay mside out until seam comes to edov, pnshino' angle of seam 
 out srjuare with tip of finger. Lay button side at inside posi- 
 tion wrong side up, and sew up along outer edge of button- 
 stay as far as top corner, tlien in across the end as far as it 
 was cut away. Fold over part of right front which lies at 
 top end of the stay as far as it M^as cut with scissors and 
 continue the seam up this folded edge to top of garment 
 Return a seam down a "foot" away from this edge to top 
 of button stay. Turn in back edge of button-stav and con- 
 tinue this seam down to bottom of stay. 
 
 3. Put in girdle: Lay garment in machiiie wrong side up and 
 
 stitch down at joining seam (middle of back) about 1" 
 Overlap ends of two half-lengths of girdle under the needle 
 at this point and tack them to garment. Fold top edge of 
 garment over the girdle, forming a wide hem Iving exactly 
 between the two notches on front edge of buttonhole side. 
 Turn in lower edge and tack corner of hem. Sew clear 
 through lower edge of toj) hem until 1" from end of right 
 or button side. Stich label under lower v(h^v of hem at tliis 
 |)oint and continue seam to od^c of garment with a tack. 
 (Care is needed to see that girdle is not sewn in with the hem 
 at any point.) 
 
 4. Join fronts below tiy : (Uieck position from top hem of gar- 
 
 ment, laying outsides of fronts together and flv edges even. 
 Sew from lower end of fly to crotch %" from raw edges. 
 Pull garment out flat on machine, right side up, and sew 
 oyer this last seam from crotch back to fly. Tack bottom 
 of fly crosswise. Sew back from fly to crotch a "foot" 
 away to catch raw edges of hem beneatli. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials— garment (leg-pieces joined at back), flv, button-stay. 
 
 half-length girdles, tassels, label, thread. 
 Tools — one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. 
 Operations— hemming, folding over, turning in, turning inside 
 
 out, tacking, trimming, checking, joining. 
 Location— left and right fronts, outside and inside on machine, 
 right and wrong side up, toj) and bottom of fly, folded and 
 raw edges of fly, lower of two front notches, outer and inner 
 angles at top of button stay, top edge at joining seam, bottom 
 of fly, crotch, a ''foot" away 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition— all parts by name and shape. No. 80 white thread. 
 Working properties— nothing additional. 
 Safety: Needle guard on the foot prevents fingers from gettino- 
 under the point. * 
 
47 
 
 Care of Tools - Xothin.u' s])(H'ial. 
 l)ra\viii<>- and Science: Xotliini;- six'cial. 
 
 Matliematics: Measui-inu' '/..", ]". ■•^" hv eve coi-rect to '/s". 
 B. -lackef : 
 
 1. Sew labels and size tab on yoke: ('n1 apart with scissors and 
 
 fold or ci-ease nnder ends of labels. I'lace yoke in machine 
 ri^ht side up, and |)iit label in position 1" from middle of 
 top ed^'e. Sew all around label, insertinj^f size tab under one 
 end. 
 
 2. Sew front or neck facin<is on yoke: Place yoke outside on 
 
 machine rig'ht side ui). Lay left slioulder facin<i' on yoke 
 wrong side up with notclied end at shoulder edji'e of yoke, 
 edges even, and stilch towards neck %" from raw edges. 
 Repeat with right shoulder facing, sewing from neck to 
 shoulder. Cut threads. 
 8. Make and sew on pocket: Lay ])ocket in machine wrong side 
 np. Fold over top edge as far as side notches, turn in edge 
 for hem and sew once across. Put left front in machine 
 right side up. Lay pocket in position with top edge opposite 
 bottom of armhole and front edge in line with meeting point 
 of neck and shoulder edges. Vary position nearest distance 
 sidewise to match stripes. Box top coi-ner at armhole, turn- 
 in edge, and sew around bottom to front to]) with a box 
 finish to seam. 
 
 4. Join fronts to back: Lay back outside on machine wrong side 
 
 up. Place right front on top, right side up, with its shoulder 
 edge Vi" inside shoulder edge of back. Stitch across a 
 "foot" away from shoulder edge of front, sewing toward 
 neck. Repeat with left fi-ont, sewing from neck to arm- 
 hole. Pull garment out flat with fi'onts at inside position 
 right side up. P'ohl raw ('d<j:c in, and sew from armhole to 
 neck. Repeat with right shoulder, sewing from neck to 
 shoulder. 
 
 5. Join yoke and neck facings to garment: Lay garment outside 
 
 on machine right side up. Fold over upper end of left front 
 hem as far as notch. Refold over %" of this hem and press 
 flat. Lay left neck-facing and yoke over these hem folds, wrong 
 side up with shoulder seams of yoke and body i)art matching 
 and neck edge Ms" below neck edge of body. Sew from left 
 front edge around neck until 4" from right front edge. Fold 
 over top of right front edge as far as notch and refold over 
 %". Lay these front hem folds under the right end of the 
 neck-facing then continue the seam to right front edge. Trim 
 off front end of facings. Snip raAv edge of the neck at inter- 
 vals with scissors so that in next operation it will lie flat. 
 Turn yoke and facings over to inside position on body (or 
 turn neck seam inside out), pushing the angles or points of 
 
48 
 
 front hems out sharp and definite on the closed end of scis- 
 
 6. Finish front hems and iieek facings : Lay garment on machine 
 wiono side up and flatten out tlie neck seam all around, 
 lack at right front angle or point then sew a "foot" away 
 from neck edge clear around to left front point. Continue 
 this seam down left front hem a "foot" away from folded 
 edge to bottom of jacket. Turn in back edge of left front 
 hem and sew up from bottom to edge of neck-facincr Turn 
 m ower edge of neck facings and yoke, sewing around to 
 righ trout and down to bottom of jacket on back edge of 
 right tront hem. (The right front has no seam a "foot" 
 away from edge, as it is tlie button side and is covered over 
 when buttoned up.) 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials-labels size-tabs, yokes, neck facim-s, fronts, pocket 
 pieces, backs, tliread. ^ i i^» i 
 
 ^vv.x^ ill,, ly,^, luacjiiiif, scissors. 
 
 Operations— cut apart, crease, join, box, turn in, fold over, re 
 
 fools— one-needle flat top machine, scissors 
 "•perations — cut apart, crease, join, b 
 fold over, trim, snip, turn inside out 
 Location-top edge of yoke, notched end of neck facings, out- 
 side and mside on, machine, wrong and right side up edo-e^ 
 even or offset %- or 14", opposite left armhole, below meet- 
 ing point of neck and left shoulder edges, facings over top 
 ends of front hem folds, facings inside on bodv, an-'les or 
 points at top of front hems, a "foot" away from .^dge, bottom 
 Stock "'' ' ''^"'' "^' ^""""^ '""''' ^''"""^ ''"" m.tches. 
 
 Recognition— all parts l)y name and shape. No. 80 wliit.- tliread 
 Working properties—nothing special. 
 Safety: Nothing special beyond needle guard 
 Care of Tools : Nothing s])ecial. 
 Drawing and Science .- None. 
 
 Mathematics: Measuring y^" exact, 1/4" accurate to 1/16" 3/''... 
 accurate to i/s" and 1" accurate to 1/4" by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE PIECER 
 
 foldino.'i?7' /''''?" T''^"'^ ' ^^^■'-»<'*'<1'<' flat bed machine with 
 folding attachment. Her duty is to jom the sleeve parts with a 
 cam running lengthwise of the arm. Sleeves come in two parts 
 because they can be cut to advantage from the goods in that way, 
 would L'f'LP''";;^ ^^'"^ f "°^ '^ 8'^^^t as the loss of goods 
 
 run so i. tn ff Tif l^T '^ ''^'^''- '^^''' ^^^^^ "^^^^t always be 
 run so as to face the back. 
 
 A. Pants : Nothing. 
 
49 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Put pieces of right sleeve in the machine right side up with 
 front piece at inside position. Sew from shoukler to wrist. 
 Repeat with left sleeve sewing from wrist to shoulder. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — sleeve pieces, tliread. 
 
 Tools — two-needle machine Avitli attachment, scissors. 
 Operations — joining. 
 
 Location — right side ui), front piece inside on machine, right 
 and left, wrist and shoulder ends. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — sleeve parts by size and shape. No. 80 white 
 
 thread. 
 "Working properties — nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing additional. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE MAKER 
 
 The sleeve maker uses a one-needle machine without folder. Her 
 work is to i)ut on the cuff and tack the ends of the cuff together 
 ready for the feller. The latter operation, however, does not come 
 until after the sleeve has been put in the garment. That is, the 
 sleeve is sewn in after the cuff is on, but while the shoulder end is 
 still in the flat. Cuffs may be just plain bands or they may have 
 angular points or curved lines for their upper edges. In the ir- 
 regular designs the widest part of the cuff' is placed on the up])er 
 side or back of the arm. 
 
 A. Pants : Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Put cuff' on sleeve: Put left sleeve outside on machine wrong 
 
 side up. Lay cuff' on top wrong side up, straight edges even, 
 and widest part towards back of sleeve. Sew across a "foot" 
 away from edge. Repeat with right sleeve. Fold cuff over 
 into outside position with seam exactly at edge, and crease 
 goods flat. Put sleeve outside on machine right side up and 
 sew across a "foot" away from edge of cuff. Swinging 
 sleeve to inside position right side up, turn in and sew along 
 upper edge of cuff*. Trim oft' ends of cuft' even with sleeve. 
 Repeat with right sleeve. 
 
 2. Tack ends of cuff: Put sleeve outside on machine wrong side 
 
 up, and cuff end furtliest off. Fold outer end of cuft' over 
 and in until ^4" from inner end. Tack i/o" along this upper 
 raw edge and edge out. Fold the i/4" lower extension over 
 to meet the upper tacked edge, and fold over (nice more 
 making a hem aliout 8/16" wide. Sew a box tack 1" long- 
 in this hem. This holds cuff, and makes a starting place for 
 
50 
 
 the fellinji' machine. This ()i)ei'ati()ii is identical for both 
 ri^ht and left sleeves, no acconnt l)ein<»' taken of the direction 
 wliich the felled seam faces, botli l)eiii<z' start(>d at the cnif. 
 Arran<i'e sleeves in pairs. 
 Anxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — sleeves, cuffs, thrccid. 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 Operations — cuffing', Jiemmin^', tacking-, ediiiiiji- out. 
 Location — outside and insid(> on machine, right and wrong side 
 up, right and left sleeves, hack or outer side of sleeve, shoulder 
 and wrist ends. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — sleeves riglit and left by seam, cuffs riglit and left 
 by sliape, No. 80 thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety: Needle guard on foot of machine. 
 Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Science: None. 
 
 Mathematics: Measuring ^4", 3/16", I/2". 1" '»>' t'yc, a "foot" 
 away. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 
 
 At this stage the examiner receives the jacket Ixxlies from tiic 
 first part girl and the sleeves from the sleeve makei" in separate 
 bundles. Thev ai'e each insix'cted before uoinu' to the sleever. 
 
 A. Pants: 
 
 1. Examine pants: ("heck length of sides and evenness of fly. 
 Inspect all seams for runoffs, skijjs and raw edges. Look for 
 defects in goods. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecing seam, looking for straight 
 
 seams, runoff', skip stitclies and raw edges. Insi)ect cuffs 
 for similar things, and also for width of tacked hem to see 
 that it is not too wide for the folder of the felling machine 
 
 2. Examine jacket body : Check for even distance on each side 
 
 of neck from shoulder seam to front points. Check length 
 of front hems and see that they are of uniform width. Check 
 position of pocket. Look in all three cases for runoff's, skip 
 stitches, raw edges, and for defective goods. 
 
 3. Report to forelady all imix-i-fect garments for i-e])aii-. 
 Auxiliarv Information 
 
 Trade 'Terms: 
 
 Materials — ])ants, jacket Ixxlies, sleeves. 
 Tools — none. 
 
 Operations — checking lengths, inspecting seams. 
 Location — all parts of garment by name. 
 
51 
 
 Special — runoffs, ski]) stitches, vn^\■ ('(l<ies. 
 Stock : 
 
 Keco'i'iiition — all i)ai'ts of yanuent by name. 
 
 Working' i)i'()perties — nothiiiu' special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: None. 
 Drawin<i- and Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics: Measurinu' unifoi-m widths hy eye, measuring- 8/1 (i" 
 l)0xed hem hy (\ve. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUNDLE BOY 
 
 The sorter or huiidle boy takes bundles of jacket bodies and 
 sleeves in the racks and carefully checks body and sleeve bundles 
 by nund)ers on tag's so that the sleever will get mated bundles tied 
 together. Each heretofore were coming tlirough tlie processes en- 
 tirely independent of each other, and must now bt' checked for as- 
 sembling. 
 
 A. Pants: Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Sort and tie bundles together: Find two bundles in bins hav- 
 ing tags with identical lot and bundle ]uiml)ers. Tie same 
 together. Place in bin. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — bundles. 
 Tools — tie strings. 
 Oi^erations — sorting, tying. 
 
 Location — position of bins containing certain lot numbers. 
 Stock: 
 
 Recognition — tags by lot and l)undle numbers. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVER 
 
 The sleever operates a two-needle fiat l)ed machine with folder 
 She joins sleeves to l)odies. 
 
 A. Pa,nts : Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Join sleeves to body: Sni]) raw edges of ai'udiole at various 
 points to help it si)read in seam. Lay l)ody inside on machine 
 right side up, and sleeve in right position on outside. Sew 
 left sleeve from front to back of armhole and right sleeve 
 from hack to front (seam facing sleeveward). 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — bodies, sleeves, thread. 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 Operations — joining, snipping. 
 
52 
 
 Location — edge of armliole, outside and inside on machine, riglit 
 side up, front and l)ack of arnihole, seam faces sleeve, right 
 and left sleeve. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — body, right and left sleeve, No. 80 thread. 
 Working properties — nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Mathematics: None. 
 
 Science: Reversing edge of shoulder gootls back into the seam 
 requires that it take a larger circumference of a circle, that is, 
 the edge must expand. If not snipped it will not expand l)ut 
 will draw and i)ucker. The sni]iping allows goods to open 
 up at the cuts and thus lie tlat. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 
 
 The felling girl runs a two-needle si)ecial macliine with a f(»lder. 
 The head extends forward from edge of tal)le about 10" or 12", and 
 the bed is small and round like an arm so tliat sleeves may be pushed 
 back over it when joined into tubular sha|)e. The work consists of 
 closing sleeves and bodies. 
 
 A. Pants : Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Fell sleeve and body seams : Insert tacked end of cuft' behind 
 the folder under the needle. Bring edges in through the 
 scrolls to position. Sew from cuff to armhole then down 
 side of body to l)ottom. Rei)eat with othei' sleeve. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — jacket, thread. 
 
 Tools — two-needle special with folder, scissors. 
 Operations — felling. 
 
 Location — cuft' behind folder, sleeve edg(>s iu folder, armhole, 
 bottom of jacket. 
 Stock : Nothing special. 
 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing additional. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 
 
 The markiug girl has two stages or operations on the jacket, and 
 one on the pauts. In the former she must mark position of loops, 
 then after the buttonholes are sewn through the loo])s she marks for 
 the l)uttons. 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Mark for fly-buttons: Lay garment flat on ta])le front up. 
 Turn back edge of outer or buttonhole fly until holes are 
 partly exposed. Mark opposite them on button side. 
 
53 
 
 B. Jacket: 
 
 1. Mark for loops or froiis : Lay ^^annciit flat on table front \\\). 
 
 Select |)attern by size number on label sticker and place over 
 left front hem. ^lark at notches in i)atteni with jiencil or 
 chalk. 
 
 2. Mark for buttons (at a later tinu' on this <;aruient) : Lay gar- 
 
 ment flat on table facin<i' up. Put loop side over button side 
 in exact position and mark throuiih buttonholes with pencil 
 or chalk. 
 
 Auxiliary Tiiformation 
 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — pants, jackets. 
 
 Tools — black ]iencil or colored to show on various colors of 
 jirints, pattei'n. 
 
 Operations — markinu'. 
 
 Location — butlonhole and button side of fly, loop and button 
 side of jacket, fronts up. 
 Stock: Notliinu' additional. 
 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Do not waste pencil or chalk. 
 Drawin<i' : Markin<i' positions. 
 Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— LOOP GIRL 
 
 The loop girl sews the loops or fro<i's on the buttonhole side of the 
 jacket at marks indicated. The loops are made of fancy braid and 
 are already tacdced into shape, so that they can be sewed with a row 
 of stitching' all around, Following middle of the braid except around 
 the buttonhole part, where the stitcliing is along the inner edge to 
 insure neat buttonhole. 
 
 A. Pants: Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Lay left front hem on machine right side up. Place loop over 
 mark and follow all around the braid with a row of stitching. 
 Repeat as many times as marked. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — jacket, loops or frogs, thread. 
 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — stitching. 
 
 Location — front hem, right side uj). 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — thread in color to be inconsi)icuous on loo])s. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
54 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— HEMMER 
 The hemming- liirl operates a siiifi'le needle flat l)ed maehiiie with- 
 out folder, and hems the bottom of both pants and jackets. 
 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Hem bottoms: Place le^- of garment inside on machine draw- 
 ing back the upper part so as to expose lower part against 
 the bed wrong side up. Fold over %" then over again for 
 a %" hem. Stitch once around along the tunn-d in edge. 
 Repeat with other leg. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Hem l)()ttom: Place garment inside on machine wi-ong side 
 up. Fold ovei' -Mi" hem, turning in the raw edge and stitch- 
 ing. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — pants, jacket, thread. 
 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — hemming, folding ovei", turning in. 
 
 Location — bottom of garments. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — No. 80 white thread. 
 
 Working properties — ^nothing s))ecia1. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing sjx'cial. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics: Measuring %" and %" l)y eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— EXAMINER 
 
 The jacket is i-e1nrned to the examiner after it has been sleeved, 
 felled, looped and hemmed, so that these operations may be in- 
 spected. 
 
 A. Pants: Nothing. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Examine jacket: Insjiect seams at shonldei-, frlliiig seams, 
 loops and bottom hems for st raightness, I'unoffs, ski|)s and 
 raw edges. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 
 (See under first stage of examining tiiis garment.) 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 
 
 The buttonhole machine is a sjiecial automatic machine wliich 
 sews a pearl stitch all aronnd the position where the buttonhole is 
 to be,then cuts throngh the cloth inside the stitches. Its head stands 
 forward somewhat from the table so that garments can be readily 
 put in the foot in any recpiired i)osition. This foot moves forward 
 and back, carrying the goods witli it, and its niotion may be ad- 
 justed to any length of l)Utt(»nliole reiinired. The work ccmsists of 
 two jobs which are timed widely a|)art in the making of the i)ajama 
 
suit, the huttoiihole fly hciii^- rcciuircd at the l)('<^iiiiiiii<i' of iiuikiii<;' 
 the jiants, and the jacket eoininu' almost a1 the end. 
 
 A. Pants : 
 
 1. Make huttonliole fly: Fold piece alon^' the middle leniitlnvise, 
 wrong' sides in, and ])ut into tlie machine. Xumher of holes 
 is indicated by a table of sizes. The spacinji' of these is a 
 matter of judjiment and is generally arbitrarily set by notic- 
 ing- where the end of the fly or the last buttonhole made lies 
 with respect to some part of the l)ed of the machine. There 
 is no divided scale of any kind on the machine for spacing- 
 buttonholes. 
 
 B. Jacket : 
 
 1. Sew buttonholes in jacket : Put one of the loops, which have 
 already been sewn over the front hem at marks indicated 
 by the marker, under the machine right side up. Repeat in 
 any desired order with remaining loojis. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — fly-])ieces, jacket, threatl. 
 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — folding, buttoidioling. 
 
 Location — nuddle of fly, front hem. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recogniti()n--fly-])ieces by sha))e, Xo. of thread. 
 
 Working properties — nothing s])ecial. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Xothing si)ecial. 
 
 Drawang, Science or Mathematics : Spacing buttonholes by eye, 
 accurately to i/4" lengthwise of goods and 1/16" crosswise. 
 
 PAYROl.L JOB— BUTTON SEWER 
 
 The button sewing machine is a si)ee'ial nuichine with its head 
 staiiding foi-ward from edge of table. The buttons are ]ilaced in 
 the upper pai't of the foot, and the garment in the lower part of this 
 same foot. The whole foot is eonti-olled l)y a cam which makes it 
 move sidewise back aiul foi-th just the distance between holes in the 
 button, and keep time exactly with the needle. If four-hole buttons 
 are used a second cam is brought into use which compounds the side- 
 Avise motion with a back and foi'ward motion at the same tinu'. This 
 brings the needle first over two holes in a diagonal direction, and 
 then over the other two diagonally. The record of number of but- 
 tons sewn on is made by an automatic counter attached to the ma- 
 chine. 
 A. Pants: 
 
 1. Sew buttons on fly: Sjnll buttons from carton conveniently 
 on bed of machine to right of needle. Put one in foot of 
 nuichine. Place button side of fly right, side up in foot of 
 
56 
 
 machine with mark under center of button. Sew until it has 
 been sul"ficiently well attached. Repeat with other positions. 
 B. Jacket: 
 
 1. Sew^ buttons on jacket : Put button in foot. Lay button side 
 of front in foot with mark under center ofbutton. Sew until 
 judg-ed sufficiently attached. Repeat with balance of posi- 
 tions. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — buttons, pants, jacket, thread. 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 Operations — button sewin<i-. 
 Location — l)utton side of fly and jacket front. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recoji'uition — pearl l)uttons by sizes in cartons, No. 80 white 
 
 thread. 
 Working properties — nothini-' special. 
 Safety : Nothing special. 
 
 Care of Tools: Buttons must be placed fair, that is with lioles in 
 a line parallel with l)ack of foot, otherwise needle will strike 
 "off" and break. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 So far as the sleeping wear department is concerned the ])ajama 
 suit is nov\' comiilete. The de])artmental ]n-oduct is checked by the 
 desk girl, and goes down the chute to tlie folding department. 
 
 The second of two tyjiical garments which are to be described in 
 detail as a i^art of tlie sleeping wear de])artment ])roduct is the night 
 gown. The type selected •will be a plain white flannelette with 
 double front and back yokes, the front yoke being trimmed with 
 braid and hem stitching. Sleeves will be full length and cuff'ed. 
 
 A skeleton outline of the making of this nightgown follows : 
 
 No. 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 1 
 
 First part girl 
 
 Join lininj? and upper front yokes together, sew on braid. 
 Hem front opening. Sew front yokes to body, sew label 
 on back lining-yoke, join back lining-yoke to body, join 
 front and back yokes. 
 
 2 
 
 Hemstitcher 
 
 Hemstitch around edge of braid. 
 
 3 
 
 Sleeve piecer 
 
 Piece sleeves. 
 
 4 
 
 Sleeve maker 
 
 Put cuffs on sleeves. 
 
 5 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Inspect previous workmanship on bodies and sleeves. 
 
 6 
 
 Bundle boy 
 
 Sort bundles of sleeves and bodies to match. 
 
 
 Sleever 
 
 Join sleeves to body. 
 
 8 
 
 Feller 
 
 Close in sleeves and bodie;. 
 
 9 
 
 Eemmer 
 
 Hem bottom. 
 
 10 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Inspect finished garment. 
 
 11 
 
 Marker 
 
 Mark for buttonholes and buttons. 
 
 12 
 
 Buttonholer 
 
 Make buttonholes. 
 
 13 
 
 Button sewer 
 
 Sew on buttons. 
 
 14 
 
 Buttoner 
 
 Button up garment. 
 
57 
 
 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 
 
 As in the pajama jackets, it will be noted that after the bundles 
 come from the cutting room, the sleeve parts are separated from the 
 others, and two sub-bundles are made with identical numbers on the 
 tags. These run through separately, the bodies going to operators 
 1 and 2, and the sleeves to 3 and 4, then both to operator 5 separately, 
 after which they are mated into one bundle again by the bundle boy. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
 The llrst part girl uses a one-needle machiiie and is employed ex- 
 clusively on the yoke construction. In plain yokes her work is 
 continuous, l)ut when certain kinds of fancy stitching are added, 
 the operations are interrupted l)y tliis extra work which is done 
 upon other machines by other operators and then returned for com- 
 pletion. In the case of the garment being described, the first pari 
 girl joins the front lining and upper yokes together and sews tlit 
 braid to the upper yoke according to whatever design has beei 
 written into the specification for that lot number. It then goes to 
 the hemstitcher and is returned for further processes hy the first 
 part girl. 
 
 1. Join front upper and lining yokes: Put right half of upper 
 
 yoke outside on machine wrong side up. Lay correspond- 
 ing lining yoke on top with wrong side up (i. e. parts both 
 rights together). Sew along neck edge a "foot" away as 
 far as bottom of front edge of yoke. Turn parts right sides 
 out and press seam flat. Lay yoke on machine right side up. 
 Place braid in position a uniform distance from neck and 
 l^ottom edges, cutting at angles and sewing along all edges. 
 liepeat with left front yoke. 
 
 2. Hem opening of body front : Lay front on machine wrong 
 
 side up. Fold over right or buttonhole side as far as notch 
 on top edge and uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn 
 in the edge and sew along it from top to l)ottom of opening. 
 Swing garment in machine, repeating with left or button 
 side, but sewing from bottom to top. 
 
 3. Join front yokes to body front : Lay right half outside on 
 
 machine with lining yoke up and bottom edge towards right. 
 Fold back the front or upper yoke underneath far enough to 
 escape being sewn in. Lay body front over right half of 
 yoke right side up and sew to lining yoke from armhole to 
 1" from notch. Arrange pleat at notch, facing towards arm- 
 hole and wide enough to ])ring front hem even with front 
 line of yoke. Complete seam to frcnt edge. Repeat with 
 left front yoke, but work from front opening to armhole. 
 Pull out both yokes from beneath into position, laying uppei 
 fi'ont yoke over the body front and turning in the lower edg( 
 to cover seam. Sew from right shoulder joining armhole 
 
58 
 
 edges together as far as body, then across to right front. 
 Repeat with left part, bnt work from front hem to armhole 
 then up left armhole to shoulder. 
 
 4. Box bottom of front opening : Put body front in machine 
 
 right side up. Lay right front hem over left, checking 
 length from neck to bottom. Sew a box tack at lower end. 
 
 5. fSew label on back lining yoke: Lay back lining yoke in ma- 
 
 chine right side up. Place label 1" from top edge at middle 
 and size tab under one end. Sew all around edge of label. 
 
 6. Join lower back yoke to body: (Note: This operation re- 
 
 quires a single folder and also the use of a gathering attach- 
 ment to take up the extra width of goods in the body back 
 just at the middle of the yoke.) Lay body outside on ma- 
 chine wrong side up. Lay back lining, yoke inside on ma- 
 chine l)ody side up. Insert yoke in folder. Work from 
 right armhole to say 2" from middle of back. Start gather- 
 ing attachment and allow it to operate until V)ody and yoke 
 are both taut between needle and hands which hold parts at 
 left armhole. Stop gathering attachment and continue seam 
 to end. 
 
 7. Join l)ack and front yokes at shoulders: Lay Ixxly back out- 
 
 side on machine wrong side up with lining yoke out in posi- 
 tion. Lay l)ody front over it i-ight side up with shoulder 
 edges of front parts of yoke and back lining yoke even. 
 Lay upper back yoke wrong side up over front yoke with 
 shoulder edges even. Sew a "foot" away from shoulder 
 edges, working from right armhole around back of neck to 
 left armhole. Pull out l)ody back from beneath to inside 
 position on machine and riglit side up. Pull upper back yoke 
 over so as to cover its own lining yoke. Sew along shoulder 
 seam from right armhole, then a "foot" away around back 
 of neck, then along shoulder seam to left armhole. Turn in 
 bottom edge of upper back yoke to cover seam, and stitch 
 across from right sleeve opening to left. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — front and Imck yoke i)ieces, back and front of ])ody, 
 thread, braid, label and si/e tab. 
 
 Tools — single-needle machine, folder, gatherer, scissors. 
 
 Operations — joining, hemming, boxing, gathering, turning in. 
 
 Location — upper and lower (or lining) yokes, right and left 
 halves of front yoke, back yoke, top edge of body front and 
 body back, right and left armholes, shoulder, neck and lower 
 edges of yoke, right and wrong side up, inside and outside 
 on machine, pleat and pleat notches, a "foot" away, pleats 
 facing towards armliole, front o])ening. 
 
59 
 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — yoke and body pai'ts l)y shape, colors and stripes, 
 
 No. 60 white thread. 
 AVorking properties — stitch may be made longer in flannel he- 
 cause the soft goods allows it to sink out of sight. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Notliing additional. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics: Judging accurately to '4" the distance from cen- 
 ter to start gatherer so as to have tlie gathered portion of 
 body l)ack centrally spaced. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— HEMSTITCHBR 
 This operator runs a special machine which requires six threads, 
 two being colored floss and four the usual cotton. Just in front of 
 the needle is a plunger which separates the fibres of the goods. The 
 sewing threads below and above hold tliese openings permanently 
 in shape and at the same time enclose the colored floss along the 
 edges. It is entirely an automatic process. 
 
 1. Hemstitch halves of front yoke: Lay piece in machine right 
 side up. Sew through the goods just along and outside of 
 the edge of the braid. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade "Terms: 
 
 Materials — halves of front yoke, tliread, coloi'ed floss. 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 Operations — hemstitching. 
 
 Location — right side up, just outside edge of In-aid. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition^ — right and left halves of front yoke. No. ()() tliread, 
 
 colored floss by shades. 
 Working properties — nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing sjiecial. 
 Drawing, Science and ]\Iathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE PIECER 
 The sleeve piecer operates a two-needle machine with folder. 
 Sleeves come in most cases from the cutting room in two parts or 
 pieces and these have to be sewn together. 
 
 1. Piece sleeves : Lay first sleeves in machine right side up, so 
 that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve 
 seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and sew 
 ])airs, rights running through from shoulder to wrist, and 
 lefts from wrist to shoulder. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — sleeve-pieces, thread. 
 
 Tools — two-needle machine witli folder, scissors. 
 
 Operations — piecing or hemming. 
 
60 
 
 Ldcatioii — front and hack of sleeve, slionlder and wrist ends. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — front and \)i\ck parts l)y shape, No. ()0 white 
 thread. 
 
 Working- ])i-opei-ties — nothiii<i- special. 
 Safety and Cai'e of Tools: Xotliin<i' additional. 
 DraAving', Science and Matlieniatics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVE MAKER 
 
 The sleeA'e niakei- puts cuffs on the sleeves with a sin<i'le needle 
 machine. 
 
 1. Attach cuffs to sleeve : Pair sleeves as check on i)iecer. Place 
 
 first sleeve outside on machine ri«iht side up. Lay cuif 
 underneath right side up, and edges even. Sew a "foot" 
 away from edges half way across. Make pleat in shu've 
 part facing l)ack of sleeve and taking up exti'a goods until 
 length of cuff and width of sleeve at wrist are equal. Con- 
 tinue seam to end of cuff'. Pull out cuff from underneath 
 and fold back over to cover seam. Turn in edge and sew 
 across. Sew across folded edge of cuff a "foot" away. 
 Trim ends of cuff if needed. 
 
 2. Tack cuff': Lay sleeve outside on machine wrong side up and 
 
 cuff edge furthest away. Fold outer end of cuff' over and 
 in until %" from other end of cuff'. Tack along this raw 
 edge about i/^" then edge out. Fold the lower end of cuff 
 over to meet raw edges together and then fold over once 
 again making a 8/16" hem. Sew a box tack 1" along on 
 this hem. This holds the cuff' and makes a starter for the 
 felling machine. This oi)eration is identical for both right 
 and left sleeves. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — sleeves, cuff's, thrt»ad. 
 Tools — one-needle machine, scissors. 
 
 Operations — cuffing, hemming, pleating, tacking, edging out. 
 Location — outside and inside on machine, right and wrong side 
 up, right and left sleeves, back or outer side of sleeve, shoulder 
 and wrist ends. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — sleeves right and left bv seam, cuff's bv shape. No 
 ' 60 thread. 
 
 Working pro})erties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing sjiecial. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics: Measuring %", 1/2", 8/16", 1" by eye, a "foot" 
 away. 
 
01 
 
 PAYROLL JOB^EXAMINER 
 
 Tlie examiner receives the '■{irjueiit in two separate, sub-bundles, 
 wliicli are inspected possibly at different times and Avitliont any 
 thonjiht of their connection. 
 
 1. Examine sleeves: Inspect piecin<^' seams, cuifs iuid tackinj^', 
 
 lookinji' for run-offs, skips, raw edges and possible defects in 
 ii'oods. Check pairs accordin<i- to pleat and cut of cuff. 
 
 2. Examine bodies: Inspect bodies for similar points, and in 
 
 addition see that all parts of the yoke fit easily or sit well, 
 that seams a "foot" away ai'e not too far from the edj^i'c, and 
 that colors and strijx's ai-e not mixed. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — sleeves, I)odi(»s. 
 Tools — scissors. 
 ()])erati()ns— ins])ectin^-. 
 Location — all parts of garment l»y name. 
 Sjx'cial — run-offs, skips, raw edges, lie flat or sit well. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — sleeves, bodies. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing and Science : Nothing special. 
 Mathematics: Measuring a "foot" away by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUNDLE BOY 
 
 The duty of bundle boy is to match the sul)-I)undles by their lot 
 and bundle numbers on card. 
 
 1. Select l)undle of sleeves from sleeve l)in. Find bundle of bodies 
 with similar nund)ers on tag. Tie these together and place 
 in a third bin. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade' Terms: 
 
 Materials — sleeves, bodies. 
 Tools — none. 
 
 Operations — checking numl)ers, tying. 
 Location — special bins. 
 Stock : Bundles by numbers. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawdng, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SLEEVER 
 
 The sleever uses a two-needle flat-bed machine with folder for join- 
 ing sleeves to body. 
 
 1. Join sleeves to body : Check length of edges of sleeve and trim 
 off at shoulder end if unequal. Snip edges of armhole at 
 intervals. Lay body inside on machine and sleeve outside, 
 
62 
 
 l)oth rijilit side up (seam faces sleeve). Put parts in folder, 
 sewin*-' left sleeve from front towards back, and right sleeve 
 from hack to front. Edges must start and end even. Notch 
 on sleeve must meet shoulder seam. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — sleeves, bodies, thread. 
 
 Tools — two-needle flat top machine with folder, scissors. 
 Operations — checking lengtli, trimming, snipping, joining. 
 Location — Right and left, front and back, inside and outside on 
 machine, right side up. 
 8tock : 
 
 Recognition — right and left sleeves, bodies, No. (iO thread. 
 Working properties — nothing si^ecial. 
 ►Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Mathematics : None. 
 
 Science: The turning back of edge of body part in the armhole 
 seam causes it to take a position on a larger circle than at 
 the folded edge. That is, it must be increased in length. If 
 snipped the edge will open up and lie flat. If not it Avill draw 
 the seam into a ])uckered etfect. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FELLER 
 
 The feeling girl operates a two-needle special machine with folder. 
 The head stands forward from the table 8" or 10", and the bed is 
 small and round so that a closed cuff or tubular sleeve may slide over 
 it l)eliind the needles. The duty of this machine is to close in the 
 arm and side of body. 
 
 1. Fell garment: Put cuft' of sleeve (already tacked) l)ehind 
 folder and bring edges of the sleeve part into place in folder, 
 Sew from cuft' to armhole and down side to bottom of t)ody. 
 Repeat with other side. No thought is taken in this oper- 
 ation for direction in wliicli the seam faces. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — garment. 
 
 Tools — two-needle special macliine witli foldei-, scissors. 
 
 Operations — felling. 
 
 Location — cuff, armhole, bottom of body. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — garment. 
 
 Working- properties — nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
63 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— HEMIVIER 
 
 The l)()11(»iii of llic uaniiciil is licniincd on a oiK'-ticcdlc niacliine 
 without f()l(liii*i- attaehnieiit. 
 
 1. Tlcin l)()ttom : Place ^arinent inside on niaehine. Fold over 
 1" of underneatli layer at eenter of back and t\irn in edi>e 
 as stitehiiiLi' is done eoni|)letely around to stai'tin^' point. 
 A ux i 1 i a ry Inf oruia tion 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Material~<i'arment. 
 
 Tools — one-needle flat bed machine, scissors. 
 Operations — hemming, foldinji' over, turnin<i' in. 
 Location — bottom edge of gown at eenter of back. 
 Stock : Nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics: Measuring 1" by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL .JOB— EXAMINER 
 
 The garment is inspected a second time to check on the sleeving, 
 felling and hemming work. 
 
 1. Examine garment: Inspect sleeve seams at shoulder, felled 
 seams and hem at bottom. Check for lying even, straight 
 seams, and foi- the usual defects on seams. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 
 (See former stage of examiner's Avork.) 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 
 
 The marker spots positions for buttons l»y marking through the 
 buttonholes. Only on such garments as have long buttoned parts 
 is it necessary to mark positions for buttonholes. In these cases it 
 is done by marking at V-shai)ed notches on the edge of a pattern 
 made of heavy cardboard. This part of the job would come natural- 
 ly before the buttonholer gets the garment. Button positions must 
 always be marked after the holes are sewn. 
 
 1. Mark for buttonholes : Lay garment flat and even. Select 
 
 right size of pattern. Place pattern on right hem of front 
 opening and mark at notches. 
 
 2. Mark for buttons : Lay garment flat with fi-ont up. Straighten 
 
 out front hems and mark through holes with a soft black 
 or colored pencil. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade "^Terms: 
 Materials — garment. 
 
 Tools — pencil, patterns by sizes and designs. 
 Operation — marking. 
 Stock : Nothing special. 
 
G4 
 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Notliino- special. 
 Drawiii<>', Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 
 
 The hnttonholes are made on a special machine, described under 
 pajamas. On ladies' nifi'litgowns there may he no buttons or front 
 opening' so that the job preceding' this job and the one following it 
 may also frecpiently be unnecessary according to the design. In this 
 design the yoke is close fitting about the neck, so that a buttoned 
 opening is needed. 
 
 1. Make buttonholes: Place gai'meiit in machine with buttonhole 
 hem (riglit) in tlie foot. Sew buttonholes as marked. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — garment, thread. 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 Operations — sewing l)utton holes. 
 Location — right hem of front opening. 
 Stock : Nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Notliing six'cial. 
 DraAving, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON SEWER 
 
 The button sewing machine was described under pajamas. On 
 those night gowns wdiich have front openings, buttons are sewn at 
 marked points. 
 
 1. Place button hem of garment in foot of nuichine. Plcae l)utton 
 in upper part of foot. Sew until secui-ely fastened. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — garment, l)uttons, thread. 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 Operations — placing l)uttons, sewing. 
 Location — left hem of front opening. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — pearl buttons by sizes in cartons. 
 Working properties— nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Blunt needle bi-eaks buttons. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONER 
 The button girl has simply to button up the garment. It is a 
 monotonous job with no attractive features and requiring no partic- 
 ular knowledge. 
 
 1. Button front of garment : Start at neck and work to bottom 
 of pleat. Tie into bundles. Deliver to chute to folding de- 
 partment. 
 
Auxiliary I.iiforiiiatioii 
 Trade" Terms: 
 
 Location — Imtlon sdincliincs otT place by hcin^' sewn on a mis- 
 taken mark. Ivcport to forclady. 
 Safety: Sharp eiliics on imj)crfect Inittons may eut tin<;ers. 
 
 Children's Sleeper Department 
 
 Cliildren's sleepers are madc^ lai-^'ely from flannelette, but other 
 li<i'litcr cotton goods are used for summer wci«>'hts. Flannelette is 
 woven and napped so as to be the same on both sides so that there 
 is no rijilit and wrong side to the cloth, but cotton goods are sized 
 and ironed so as to produce a glaze on one side which is generally 
 used as the right side. Some cotton goods are printed on one side. 
 When speaking of the right side of flannelette, we mean the side 
 which becomes the outside of the garment. 
 
 Sleepers are union garments, made sometimes with a hood attached 
 at the neck, and also as a nde, though not always, with attached 
 feet. They are mostly footed, and without the hood. Sizes are 
 indicated on the labels by years, ranging from 1 to 14. The design 
 of the garment provitles for buttoning from neck down front to 
 bottom of a boxed ])leat, and also across the top of a back tiap reach- 
 ing to side openings. 
 
 The construction of a slef^jiei" may l)e summarized in the follow- 
 in u' wav : 
 
 Payroll Job 
 
 Hemmer 
 
 Fii-st part srirl 
 
 Second iiart g 
 
 Feller 
 
 Examiner 
 
 Tacker 
 
 Buttonholer 
 
 Markers 
 
 Button sewer 
 
 Buttoner 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 Hem bottoms of backs. 
 
 Sew belt on back, hem buttonhole and button side of fronts, 
 
 join fronts, make and sew on pocket, sew on toe-pieces. 
 Piece sleeves if needed, join backs of pants, join sleeves to 
 
 body, join shoulders. 
 Hem side openings on pants, sew backhand to pants, heel 
 
 bottom of pants, sew cuffs on sleeves, sew on collar. 
 Fell sleeves and outside and inside seams of legs. 
 Inspect workmanship. 
 
 Tack wrist and side ends of felled seams. 
 Make buttonholes on front, backhand and cuffs. 
 Mark for buttons. 
 Sew on buttons. 
 Button garment ready for folding department. 
 
 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 
 
 Tlnu-e is sufficient instructional material connected with the 
 various machines and goods used throughout the ])rocesses of making 
 this sleejier, to warrant a detailed study of the operations in order 
 that new operators may be given adequate instruction on ]irocesses 
 and auxiliary information which goes with them. 
 
 In the study which follows it may appear as if but one garment is 
 being made. The reader must interpret always that twenty-four 
 similar garments are going through in each case. Sometimes the 
 operations go singly, sometimes in pairs, or maybe in threes or fours 
 
66 
 
 as the pieces go through once. This is a matter for careful study 
 by operators to determine just wliat is for them individually the most 
 rapid and efficient method of handling. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— HEMMER 
 
 The hemming girl operates a one-needle machine with folder at- 
 tachment, running a hem across the bottom of the back piece. 
 1. Hem backs : Lay back outside on machine wrong side up. Put 
 left bottom edge in folder and stitch across to right corner. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Material — flannelette, caml)ric or print backs, white tliread. 
 Tools — one-needle flat-top machine with folder, scissors. 
 Operations — hemming. 
 
 Location — wrong side up, left and riglit, bottom edge, setting 
 folder fair. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — backs l)y shape. No. 60 white thread. 
 Working properties — flannel gives off a great deal of lint, mak- 
 ing it necessary to clean machine more frequently. Absence 
 of starch or sizing makes goods limp, edge of goods must be 
 fed in with fingers close to the folder, and an even tension 
 held on goods to prevent gathering or drawing. 
 Safety: The folder acts as a guard to the needle. 
 Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— FIRST PART GIRL 
 
 The first part girl operates a one-needle flat top machine without 
 attachments. She works on the front part of the garment with 
 exception of sewing the belt across the middle of back. This belt 
 serves no function beyond being a button-stay. 
 
 1. Sew belt to back : Check for even length of riglit and left side 
 
 from arm's eye to notch. Lay back iuside on machine right 
 side up, bottom edge to the k'ft. Place l)elt-piece right side 
 up with upper edge opposite notches. Turn in edge and 
 stitch across from left to right, returning similarly on lower 
 edge of belt, but leaving both ends open. 
 
 2. Hem front opening: Lay right front (l)utt<)iiliole side) inside 
 
 on machine wrong side up. Fold over hem to notch, making 
 uniform width to bottom of opening. Turn in edge and sew 
 down from neck to bottom along inner edge of hem. Lay 
 left front (l)utton side) inside on machine wrong side up. 
 Fold over hem to notch at neck, but narrowing to 1/2 '' width 
 at bottom. Turn in edge and stitch from bottom to neck 
 along inner edge. 
 
67 
 
 3. -loin fronts: Lay fronts in luacliine ri^lit side up. Check for 
 
 lenji'th from neck to bottom of hems. Lay rijiht front hem 
 over left and stiteli across at bottom of ])h^at. Turn in edge 
 of right front h(>lo\v ])l('at to crotch ami stitch along edge 
 returning from crotcli to front a "foot" away. I'.ox bottom 
 of front hems. 
 
 4. Make and sew on pocket: Lay pocket-piece inside on machine 
 
 wrong side up. Fold over top as far as notches and stitch 
 across top of fold. Lay right front of garment in machine 
 right side u)). Place pocket with top edge 1" below arm's 
 eye, and "3 fingers" away from right hem. (If striped goods, 
 match strijies nearest way right or left.) Turn in side edge 
 nearest fi'ont, boxing top corner and stitching around to 
 arm hole corner with a box tack at finish. 
 .'). Se\v on toe-pieces: Lay garment outside on machine riglit side 
 uj). Place toe-piece over bottom of leg w^rong side up at 
 level of notches. Stitch around near edge from notch to 
 notch, nothing being turned in. 
 Auxiliary Infoi-mation 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — back, back-belt or button-stay, fronts, pocket-piece, 
 
 toe-pieces, white thi'ead. 
 Tools — one-needle fiat top machine, scissoi-s. 
 Operations — checking lengths, hemming, tni'iiing in. folding 
 
 over, boxing, joining, tacking. 
 Location — arm's eye oi- arndiole, right and wrong side uj), out- 
 side and insiib' on macliine, right and left sides, buttonhole 
 and button sides, neck, bottom of front hem, crotch, a "foot" 
 aw^ay, "3 tingei-s away," bottom of leg. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — all i)arts by name and shape, No. (iO thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety: Needle guard on foot to protect fingers. 
 Cai'e of Tools: Nothing s]>ecial. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 Mathematics: Measuring i/o", 1" and "3 fingers" by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— JOINER 
 
 The joiner oi)erates a two-needle flat bed machine with a folder. 
 Sleeves may come from the cutting room in whole pieces or in two 
 pieces, some bundles having some of each kind. The joiner checks 
 this and joins or pieces those necessary. She also joins all other 
 parts wdiich are done on the flat with double seams. 
 
 1. Piece sleeves : Lay first sleeve in machine right side up. so 
 that back of sleeve lies at outside position (that is, all sleeve 
 seams must face back of sleeve). Set in folder and stitch in 
 
68 
 
 })airs, right running tlirougli from sliouldcr to wrist, and 
 left from wrist to shoulder. 
 2. Join shoulders: Lav back of yarmeut inside on macliine riglit 
 side up. Lay front in outside position right side up (that is, 
 shoulder seam always faces front). Set right shoulder in 
 folder, sewing towards neck, following Avitli left shoulder 
 from ]ieck to arm hole. Trim ends of seam if needed. 
 8. Join sleeves to 'oody: Lay body inside on machine right side 
 up, and left sleeve outside in position (that is, shoulder seam 
 must face the sleeve). Set front corners of sleeve and arm- 
 hole in folder and stitch through to back of sleeve. Place 
 right armhole and sleeve in position, stitcliing from back of 
 sleeve over shoulder to front corner. 
 4. Join backs of pants : Place riglit l)ack outside and left back in- 
 side on machine I'ight side up. Set in folder, sewing from 
 crotch to top. Ti'im ends of seam even if needed. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — sleeve-])ieces, front and back of garment, backs of 
 
 pants, thread. 
 Tools — two-needle, flat bed macliine with foldei-, scissors. 
 Operations — seaming. 
 
 Location — right side up, outside and inside, shoulder and wrist 
 ends, armhole, neck, back and front of sleeve, right and left 
 back of pants, crotch, seam faces backward or sleeveward, 
 Stock : 
 
 Reco^niition — all parts by name and shape. No. (50 white thread. 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— SECOND PART GIRL 
 The second part girl continues the single needle work, putting on 
 cuffs and collars, and hemming sides and top of the pants. 
 
 L Hem side openings on pants : Lay back of pants inside on ma- 
 chine wrong side up. Fold over to depth of side cut on left 
 o])eniing, and to notch on top edge. Sew from bottom of 
 Ikmu to top edge, turning in edge. Repeat witli right side 
 oi)ening, sewing from top down and edging out. 
 2. Sew backhand to pants: Double band end to end, and in)tch 
 edge at middle fold with scissors (used as a marker to notch 
 rest of bundle). Put pants outside on macliine wrong side 
 ui). Lay band along top edge wrong side up with notch at 
 joining seam. Fold over end of l)and until even with hem 
 of right side opening. Stitch across top edge, folding over 
 left end of band at finish of seam. Swing garment to inside 
 ])osition, right side up. Pull backhand out into position and 
 
GO 
 
 fold over. just to cover scam. Tui']! in ri^lit end of band, and 
 lower edge. Sew down riuiit end and across lower edge to 
 left opening. Turn in left end of l)and and sew up, then 
 across top edge towards right. Near right end of band in- 
 sert label under needle with size tab under its lower edge. 
 Sew once around label and continue seam to end. 
 o. Heel bottom of pants: Put garment outside on machine right 
 side up. Fold inside bottom corner of right leg over to out 
 side corner. Sew across from outside to fold, about %" 
 away, turning no edges in. Repeat with left leg, sewing 
 from fold to outside edge. 
 
 4. Sew cuff's to sleeves : Place sleeve of garment in machine 
 
 wrong side up. Fold over hems for wrist opening from seam 
 cut to v]id notch, sewing up sleeve on one hem and down 
 sleeve on the other. Swing sleeve into outside position and 
 lay cuft' over it wrong side up with edges even. Sew across 
 near the edge, folding over ends of cuff band even with sleeve 
 at start and finish of seam. Swing sleeve to inside position 
 right side up and pull cuff out from beneath into position. 
 Fold over onto sleeve to cover seam. Turn in ends and edge 
 of cuff and sew all around. Repeat with other sleeve. 
 
 5. Sew on collarband : Fold and mark middle and quarters of 
 
 collarband by notch with scissors. Put garment outside on 
 machine wrong side up. Lay collarband wrong side up over 
 garment with edges even. Fold over ends even with front 
 hems and sew across near tlie edge. Swing garment to in- 
 side position right side up. Pull collarband from beneath 
 out into position and fold bacd-c over to cover seam. Turn 
 in ends and lower vd'j:^' and sew all around. 
 Auxiliai-v Information 
 Trade" Terms: 
 
 Materials- garment (fronts and back sleeved), pants, backhand, 
 
 label and size tab, cuff's, collarband, thread. 
 Tools — one-needle machine without folder attachments. 
 Operations — hemming, folding, heeling, cuff'ing, collaring. 
 Location — right and wrong side uj), outside and inside on ma- 
 chine, folding over, turning in, edging out. side openings, 
 bottom of leus, top of ])ants. wrist, neck, front hems. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — all pai'ts by name and shape. 
 Working ))roperties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB -FELLER 
 
 The feller girl operates a special two-needle machine with folder 
 attacliment. The machine head extends forward over the table so 
 
70 
 
 tliat the closed in ^sianneiit may pass liack over the arm-like lied. The 
 operation consists practically of joininji' a continuous felled seam 
 from wrist opening to wrist opening, having passed along sleeves, 
 ontseams, inseams and feet. 
 
 1. Place end of right sleeve o])ening in folder. Stitch from wrist 
 to armhole and down right side, joining front to back as far 
 as bottom of right side opening. Repeat with left sleeve 
 and side. With garment still in machine, lay left end of 
 backhand of pants over belt on l)ack, checking length by 
 notches on front and back at l)ottom of left side opening. 
 Sew from notch down left outseam, joining front and back 
 of leg. Turning heel and toe parts right side in, continue 
 seam around under arch of the foot to and along left inseam. 
 Continue from crotch around right leg to notch at bottom of 
 right side opening, checking right ends of backhand and belt 
 when needle has reached about knee height on the up seam. 
 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials^ — garment in two parts, front and pants, thread. 
 
 Tools — two-needle, sjiecial machine with folder, scissors. 
 
 Operations — felling, joining. 
 
 Location — right and left wrists and side openings, ends of back- 
 band and backbelt. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition—body and i>ants, No. 60 white thread. 
 
 Working properties — nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL .I0B--EXA1VIIXER 
 
 The examiner inspects all previous workmanshii) on the sleeper. 
 
 1. Examine collar, front pleat and pocket, looking for run-ofPs, 
 
 skip stitches, raw edges, tacking, and seeing that i>arts lie 
 even. Check length of sides of front opening. A difference 
 of Vt" niust go back. 
 
 2. Examine felling, backhand and backbelt for run-offs, skip 
 
 stitches, raw edges, and see that parts lie even. Check length 
 of side openings. 
 
 3. Examine cuff's and sleeves at shoulder for run-ott's, ski]) titches, 
 
 raw edges, and see that cuff's lie even. 
 
 4. Check for mixed colors or stripes, thin spots or holes in goods. 
 
 Report defects to forelady, who repairs and marks such 
 garments as seconds. 
 
 5. Report defective workmanslii]) to forelady, who returns them 
 
 to the operator responsil)le. 
 
71 
 
 Auxiliary Iiiforuuition 
 Trade "Terms: 
 
 Materials — child's slee])er, all parts by name. 
 
 Tools — none. 
 
 Operations — examining-, inspcetinii', cheeking' lengths. 
 
 Location — all parts l)y name. 
 
 Special — run-oti's, skip stitches, raw ed<i'es, thin spots, straijiiit 
 seams, lie even, seconds. 
 Stock : 
 
 Reco<i'nition — parts dift'erinji' in color by shades and stripes, and 
 differing in Aveight or thickness. 
 
 AVorking properties — none. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing- and Science : None. 
 Mathematics : Measuring Vj." and less by eye. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— TACKER 
 
 The tacker ojierates a special machine which has an automatic 
 movalde foot slitling over the maiii l)ed. The garment is slid into 
 this foot, and when machine is set in operation it slides the goods 
 under the needle three times sidewise, with a straight seam return- 
 ing the fourth time with a staggered or sawtooth seam crossing the 
 iirst three stitchings six or eight time;^. The length of this tacking 
 can be adjusted, but it is usually set for %" or 1". The head is set 
 forward so that sleeves may be slid over the end of the arm bed. 
 Record of work done is read from a registering counter linked with 
 the machine so as to indicate the number of tackings made by o])er- 
 ator. 
 
 1. Tack end of felhnl seams at wrist openings. Tack end of felled 
 seams at bottom of side openings. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade 'Terms: 
 
 Materials — garment. 
 
 Tools — special tacking machine, scissors. 
 Operations — tacking. 
 
 Location — left and right wrist and side openings. 
 Stock: Nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTONHOLER 
 
 The special automatic machine used in making buttoidioles, sews 
 around tlie jiosition with a peai'l stitch, then cuts through the goods 
 inside the stitcliing. Buttoidioles are made in cuff's, front pleat and 
 backhand. 
 
 1. Place outside end of cuff* in machine and sew buttonhole. 
 
 2. Place outer pleat of front opening in machine, and sew as many 
 
T2 
 
 holes as reqiiired for size of garment, workiii"' from top of 
 pleat to I)ottoin and spaein<i' l)y eye or chosen i^oints on bed 
 of maeliine. 
 3. Place backl)and in machine and sew as many holes as required 
 for size of garment, workin**' end holes first, then intermedi- 
 ate positions bj' eye or marks on machine. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Material — garment, names of parts, thread. 
 Tools — special machine, scissors. 
 Operations — buttonholing. 
 
 Location — outer ends of riglit antl left cuffs, front pleat, ends 
 of baekband. 
 Stock : No. 60 Avliite tliread. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics : Measuring ]K)sition of holes by eye correct to 1/16" 
 on cuff's, Vs" *>ii pleat or backhand. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— MARKER 
 
 Tlie marker locates position of buttons by nmrking with soft pen- 
 cil through all l)uttonholes. 
 
 1. Lay garment flat with buttonlioles and l)utton sides in i)osition 
 and mark through middle of bnttotdioles. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Material — garment. 
 Tools — soft black pencil. 
 Operations — laying flat, marking. 
 Location — cuff's, front pleats, l)ackl)and and baekl)elt. 
 Stock : Nothing additional. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing: Marking locations tlirougli lioles. 
 Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BUTTON SEWER 
 The ])utton sewer operates a special machine which holds the 
 button in a foot which moves along with the cloth back and forth 
 sidewise far enough to bring the two holes alternately under the 
 needle. Tliis oscillation keeps exact time with the movement of the 
 needle. Foi- four-hole buttons, a second adjustment adds a forward 
 and back motion so that the UfM'dle registers over the four holes, first 
 two diagonally till fully sewn, llicii the remaining two. The num- 
 ber of threads sewn through is a matter of judgment of the operator. 
 1. Lay buttons of required sizes conveniently on table of machine 
 near foot. Put button in foot with holes square across. 
 Place uarmeiit with mark underneath foot and release foot 
 
73 
 
 treadle. Sew aeeoi-diii^- to judiinient. Sew on butt' n;-; in 
 following' order: front pleat from bottom to top, one cnff", 
 across backbelt or button stay, remaining' enlT. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — garment, pearl buttons, thi-ead. 
 Tools — special machine, scissoi's. 
 
 Operations — sewing on l)uttons, adjusting machines. 
 Location — machine bed, button foot, cuffs, front pleat, l)ack belt. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — two or fourdiole buttons, firsts or seconds. No. 60 
 
 white thread. 
 Working properties — nothing special. 
 Safety: Second buttons have shar[) or wane edges wbich fre- 
 quently cut fingers. 
 Care of Tools: Button must be set in fair or lU'edle will strike 
 
 "off" and break. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics: None. 
 
 PAYROLL .JOB— BUTTONER 
 
 The buttoner closes up all parts of the garment. There is no 
 given series for buttoning operations which would be better than 
 another. The girl adopts an order which is for herself most rapid 
 and saving of eft'ort. Auxiliary konwledge is so slight as to be 
 almost negligible. 
 Auxiliarv Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — garnuMit. 
 Tools — none. 
 Operations — buttoning. 
 Location — front, cuil's, backband. 
 Stock: Nothing additional. 
 Safety: Handle buttons so as to avoid cuts from sluii'p edges on 
 
 seconds. 
 Care of Tools : None. 
 
 Drawdng, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 The child's sleeper is completed so far as the Sleeping Wear De- 
 partment is concerned wdien the buttoner has finished. The bundles 
 are turned in to the desk girl for recording, and are afterwards sent 
 down the chute to the Folding Department. 
 
 Folding Department 
 
 All garments fi'om the Sleeping Wear and Childreirs Sleeper 
 Department are delivered to the Folding Department in bundles of 
 twenty-four. It is the work of this department to fold, press, sort 
 and box the garments. In tliis particular department there is in- 
 cluded also the product oi' bi'Miudi factories which have made up 
 
74 
 
 special lines such as men's fancy shirts and work shirts. The range 
 of jiarments folded and hexed covers men's night shirts, pajamas, 
 inijunions, work shirts and fancy shirts ; ladies' nightgowns, pajamas, 
 pajunions and pajunettes; and children's sleepers. A few children's 
 rompers and ladies 'bloomers are i)rodnced, hnt these are only spe- 
 cials. The standard lines are sleeping wear and shirts. 
 
 A general view of \\\e department is shown l)y tlie following 
 schedule : 
 
 No. I Payroll Job 
 
 1 I Folder 
 I 
 
 2 I Presser 
 I 
 
 3 I Label girl 
 
 4 I Boxer 
 I 
 
 Work Jobs 
 
 Fold nightshirts, pajamas, pajunions, pajunettes, night- 
 gowns, sleepers, work shirts, fancy shirts. 
 
 Press fancy shirts, work shirts, pajamas, pajunions and 
 pajunettes, white nightshirts, all summer garments. 
 
 Label boxes. 
 
 Sort folded and pressed garments according to size and 
 colors, tie in bundles and wrap, box and tie. 
 
 DETAILED JOB ANALYSIS 
 
 Since the purpose to be served by this study is to ]n-ovide data 
 which may be used by instructors particularly with girls who are 
 employed in departmental jobs, a detailed analysis will cover only 
 such .employments as are suitable for girls, and will include only 
 among these such as are concerned with the garments which were 
 detailed in manufacture, namely, nightgowns, pajamas and sleepers. 
 All garments are folded in the same general way, slight differences 
 can be enlarged only on the job. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB FOLDER 
 
 This work is done exclusively by girls. The folding table is some- 
 what higher than ordinary tables so that working conditions may be 
 comfortable. The folder thinks of the left end as the top and gar- 
 ments are always laid top to left. The surface of the table is marked 
 crosswise from a top line to indicate the sizes of boxes into which 
 garments are afterwards jiacked. Folds are then made within these 
 particular lines. Small sleepers are folded extra small for packing 
 two side by side in boxes. Folding-boards made of heavy millboard 
 are used in some garments to control shape and size. The board is 
 withdrawn before iiinning has been completely finished. 
 
 1. Fold pajamas: Straighten out pants at top and with legs 
 even. Lay on table with top at top line. Arrange and pin 
 girdle with fringed ends out at middle of top end. Fold legs 
 up until bottoms are past top line 8" or 10". Lift upper leg 
 and fold underneath itself, its fold being even with top line, 
 leaving end of lower leg extending out. Pin and place aside. 
 Lay jacket front down, even with top line. Lay pants over 
 jacket with tops even. Lay over the near and far sides and 
 liin. Fold sleeves back out with cuffs extending over edge, 
 and pin. Fold bottom up to required line on table and pin 
 
end in [)lace. Fold rciiuiiiiii!^' ])ant Ic^' htick over onto body 
 and pin into position. Turn jiarment ovei- and pin cuffs to 
 front of jacket. This leaves garment so that front shows 
 jacket and style of cuff's, and label on inside of back yoke, 
 while back shows ends of <i'irdle (plain or fringed) and style 
 of pants bottom — ])lain, or looptnl and l)uttoned. 
 
 2. Fold sleeper : 
 
 a. Large sized garment — Lay face or front up, with top at 
 top line. Fold sleeves across breast. Fold feet up to re- 
 (piired folding line" on table. Fold over again even with 
 top. Turn garment over and pin at edges. 
 1). Small sized garment — Lay face up. Lap over sides to 
 near middle and fold sleeves in to neck edge and then over 
 and down with cuff's lying side by side. Fold bottom to mark. 
 Fold over once again to top. Turn garment over and pin 
 at edges. Both of these folds show label on outside neai- 
 right end of backl)and. 
 
 3. Fold nightgown : Lay garment face down. Fold over sides 
 
 part way to middle. Ke-fold edges back over so as to get 
 sleeves outside side lines. Fold bottom up until at required 
 mark on table. Fold over once again to top. Pin parts to- 
 gether. Turn gai'ment over and pin sleeve cuffs across 
 front of gown. This shows label on inside of back yoke, 
 and style of cuff's, yoke, and front ideat. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms : 
 
 Materials — pajamas. sleei>ers. nightgoAvns. 
 Tools — folding-boards, ]nns. 
 Operations — folding, lapping over, pinning. 
 
 Location — top line on table, various folding lines on table, front 
 of garment up or down on table, near side and far sides of 
 garment as it lies on table, fold under, fold over, fold up 
 (from right to left or toj) end). 
 Stock : Nothing special. 
 Safety and Care of Tools: None. 
 Drawing, Science and Mathematics : None. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— PRESSER 
 
 The i^ressing of ganuents varies considerably. Some are partly 
 pressed l)efore folding, and finished afterwards, others are not 
 pressed until after folding, and some not at all. The work beingr 
 relatively heavy, it is not given to young girls, but is given to men 
 and women who are physically able to work without undue fatigue. 
 Two types of irons are used, one being gas heated, and the other 
 electrically heated. The latter is the tyjie commonly used in the 
 home, and is used by the women pressers. The gas heated iron also 
 
76 
 
 has steam comieetion to moisten the garment as it is ironed. This 
 iron is considerably heavier and is used exclusively by men. 
 
 No detailed analysis is made of this job because girls are not 
 except in exceptional cases given this work to do. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— LABEL GIRL 
 The duties in tliis are two-fold according as the garments are to 
 be enclosed in cardboard boxes or wi-apped in paper bundles. 
 
 1. Prepare wraj^pers : Tear off paper from roll in size according 
 
 to descriptive sheet specification for particular lot number. 
 Stick gummed label on each sheet in such position that it 
 will show later on wrapped bundle just at the end of the 
 bundle. 
 
 2. Prepare l)oxes : Consult descriptive sheet for size and kind of 
 
 l)ox for particular lot immlier. Count out number of boxes 
 required. Stick labels on boxes or covers according to kind. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 Materials — wrai)ping i)ap('r, boxes, labels. 
 Tools — paste and brusli. 
 
 Operations — tearing off, lal)eling, counting out. 
 Locaticn — position of laltel on sheet for various sized bundles, 
 label on end of l)ox or cover according to its style or size, 
 stock-iiiles of empty boxes by sizes, and lot numbers. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — know empties l)y description on sheet, know labels 
 by stamped sizes. 
 Safety : None. 
 
 Care of Tools: Nothing special. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 
 IMathematics : Figuring ]mml)er of l)oxes needed for particular 
 lot number. Counting out boxes as tied in bundles of 8's, 
 4's, (i's, or more. 
 
 PAYROLL JOB— BOXER 
 
 The boxers have two main work jobs, one boxing and the other 
 bundling, tluit is wra]>ping in paper l)ouiul bundles instead of in 
 boxes. 
 
 1. Sorting: Sort garments into i)iles according to sizes, and also 
 
 to colors in goods, or color of trimmings. Collect from piles 
 in dozens, or in fractions of a dozen as 3/12, 4/12 or 6/12 
 dozen, having same size but assorted colors. 
 
 2. Bundling: Check sizes, style and quantity on garment laliels 
 
 with those on wrappers. Lay wrappers on table, labels 
 down. Tie bundles. Place bundle of garments in position. 
 Wrap and tie. Stack on truck. 
 
 3. Boxing : Check sizes, style and (pumtity on garment lal)el with 
 
77 
 
 those on l)o.\. Place sorted l)undles in box. Put on lid and 
 tie box. (In higher priced garments and all summer lines 
 the boxes are lined with special tissue paper carrying- the 
 tirm trade mark, l)efore buiulles are ])laced in the boxes. 
 Auxiliary Information 
 Trade Terms: 
 
 ^Materials — garments, wrappers, l)oxes, twine, lining tissue i)a)ier. 
 Tools — Scissors. 
 
 Operations — checking, tying, wrapping, laying in boxes, stack- 
 ing on truck. 
 Location — wrappers with label side down. 
 Stock : 
 
 Recognition — folded garments by name and shape. 
 Safety and Care of Tools : None. 
 Drawing and Science : None. 
 
 Mathematics : Estimating length of twine correct to 6" for com- 
 pleting tied bundles, counting out garments in dozens or 
 fractions of a dozen. 
 After bundles and boxes have been tied and stacked on the trucks 
 by the folding department, the manufacturing has been completed. 
 They are then sent to the Stock Room. 
 
 VII. USE OF INSTRUCTION SHEETS 
 
 Instruction is measured as to its success by what the learner can 
 do as a result of it. Good instruction is also, a cost cutting factor 
 in the degree that it is accomplished in the shortest possible time and 
 with the elimination of unnecessary effort on the part of instructor 
 and learner. This means the use of any efit'ective teaching devices 
 which can be worked up. Good instruction sheets prepared in ad- 
 vance save considerable time, and make possible a better selection, 
 arrangement and presentation of subject matter. The sheet is not 
 a substitute for personal instruction. It is a supplement to it. It 
 is the h'sson summary in ])enuanent form with some test exercises 
 attached, and is intended to l)e handed to tlie learner only after a 
 personally conducted lesson has l)een put over. 
 
 The following sample instruction sheet has been prepared to illus- 
 trate what can be done in part-time and vestilnile schools by means 
 of such a device. The vestibule school may not make use of all the 
 material which appears on these slieets because its objective is not 
 so inclusive as the public part-time school objective, but the objective 
 of the vestibule school should be inclusive of nnich more than it has 
 l)een in the ])ast, if it is to accomi)lish results that emplovers expect 
 of it. 
 
 It will be rightly judged that the sample is somewhat long. The 
 fact is that such a lesson sheet would be fitted in among others ahead 
 of and following it, so that some questions appearing here might 
 appear with equal etfectiveness on other sheets. Their presence 
 
liere in such numbers is rather to indicate the possibilities than to 
 suggest exactly what might appear on this instruction sheet when 
 placed among others in service. It is necessary, however, to have 
 "repeat" questions frequently. 
 
 Charting the operations will lead to some study of their efficiency, 
 and should produce frequent revisions by the up-to-date instructor, 
 showing shortened time or reduced number of motions. The result 
 will be standardized operation sheets. 
 
 Under the heading of related instruction the purjiose is to start 
 the new girl tliinking about her job, as her own, and also in relation 
 to the whole product. It is evident that many more questions could 
 be added. 
 
 The reference to a drawing clears up points of doubt, and also 
 serves as a record of things talked about which might otherwise slip 
 l)y. Have the learner draw her own at times. 
 
 Tlie mathematics will bring the question of relative speed to the 
 girl's attention at the start and will give her a means of computing 
 her attainment from day to day. It will also reveal the fact that the 
 company is losing money in proportion as she is paid a bonus. In 
 the early training period the company loses most, in the later train- 
 ing period she herself loses most by not being up to average speed. 
 
 In the part-time school there should be as much exercise work in 
 English as can be worked in about the job which is to be, or has 
 been done. These will suggest themselves to every interested teacher. 
 In the vestibule school it is not expected, that such exercises would 
 be carried through but it is advisable that the instruction suggested 
 by these exercises be given. 
 
 Instruction sheets ought to be ])repared in advance of the lesson 
 to l)e taught, and carefully checked through with someone in the 
 employ of the ''om]iany competent to pass authentic judgment njion 
 TJiem. The checking of these in ])reparation is a real co(u-(lin;i1 iiig 
 duty of tlie part-time school instructor. When so passed, they shonhl 
 be stencilled and sufficient copies run off to serve the purpose of the 
 school for some time in advance. That is, there should be available 
 a copy to give to each learner, so that she has at the end some real 
 reference material to use when needed. Once the labor of preparing 
 these has been exjiended, the instructional job of the teacher will l)e 
 considerably lightened in the checking and follow-up part of lier 
 duties particularly. 
 
 Instructors will find in sections IV, A" and Xl of tliis analysis a 
 large field for suggestive questions. 80 large in fact is it that the 
 problem of the teacher will be not, what can I find to put in, but 
 rather what shall I leave out? It is hoped that with such suggestive 
 material at hand for use of instructors in the needle trade, and an 
 assurance that these instructors can use it advantageously, the labor 
 of compiling it will have been a service worth rendering to the cause 
 of vocational education. 
 
70 
 
 Part-Time Trade Preparatory School 
 Job Instruction Sheet 
 
 Needle Trade Lesson 
 
 Job — Piece two do/eii i)(iirs of men's ])cijania jacket sleeves. 
 
 Enlarged view of seam af XY 
 
 ^— 
 
 (c) 
 
 (b) 
 
 Operations 
 
 Note: Instructor will have iziven inslructii 
 the nse and care of machine in prcxions 1 
 knows the macliine and can ojierate it in rni 
 stitchin*;-. 
 
 II and demonstrated 
 ns, so that learner 
 ii' a straiii'ht row of 
 
 1. Open bundle and check ed^es A and B of sleeve-pieces. 
 
 2. Lay bundle of larg'er pieces in convenient position on la]\ and 
 
 the other at left side of machine on top of table, having" the 
 right side of both bundles up. 
 8. Place smaller piece ontside on macliine riglit side up, and enter 
 shoulder end of joining edge (if right sleeve) in lower scroll 
 of folder. (If left sleeve, insert cuff end in scroll.) 
 
 4. Place larger piece inside on machine right side up, and insert 
 
 corresponding end of joining edge in upper scroll of folder. 
 
 5. Start machine, and guide ]iieces through to end of seam. 
 
 6. Repeat operations .'!, 4 and -") with next on top of bundles. (It 
 
 will be the mate of the first sleeve to form the pair, and wilJ 
 be run through from opposite end.) 
 
 7. Continue operations 3, 4, 5 and 6 until bundle is all through. 
 
80 
 
 8. Pull mass from behind machine, snippin<i- threads connecting- 
 
 each sleeve, trimming shoulder end of seam when necessary, 
 and laying sleeves in flat bundle (by pairs) on lap as trimmed. 
 
 9. Tie bundle, and mark tag with operator's number. 
 
 Related Instruction 
 
 Shop Knowledge — 
 
 1. The seam should be so placed as to lie on the back of the sleeve 
 
 Avhen sewn into jacket, and lap of seam should face towards 
 the back. What reasons can you give for this? 
 
 2. Why should the smaller pieces be placed to the left of the 
 
 machine head and the larger pieces in the operator's lap? 
 
 3. AVhy check the A and B edges of the first two pieces ? 
 
 4. Would it make any difference to you if you performed opera- 
 
 tion 4 before doing operation 3 ? If so, what and why ? 
 
 5. Why do you retard the lower or outside jiiece, and allow the 
 
 upper to feed through freely .' 
 
 6. What is the name of the goods you are using.' Is it cotton. 
 
 silk, linen or wool? Is the i)attern woven into or printed 
 onto it? 
 
 7. AVhy is it suitable for the purpose for which it is used? Why 
 
 do you think the purchasing department selected it ? 
 
 8. In certain sizes of garments the sleeves may be cut with half 
 
 of the bundle in one-piece sleeves, and the other half in two 
 pieces. How do you account for it ? 
 
 9. What length of stitch are you using ? Why .' What size of 
 
 thread? 
 10. To whom will the sleeves go after this job .' What will he done 
 to them then ? Should the trimming operation belong to this 
 jol) or the next ? Why ? 
 Drawings 
 
 1. In figure (a) of the drawing, what do dash lines "C" repre- 
 
 sent ? Are there any such lines on the cloth ? 
 
 2. Indicate the position of the "C" lines in figure (c). In figure 
 
 (b). Where are these places on the scrolls of the folder? 
 
 3. Is figure (1)) a sketch of a right or a left sleeve? W^hy? 
 
 4. What do the two vertical lines in figure (c) mean? 
 
 5. What difference do you find in starting the shoulder end from 
 
 that of starting the cuff end into the scrolls of the folder? 
 Which is the easier? Why.' 
 Mathematics — 
 
 1. Make a record of the time you start and finish the bundle. 
 
 Subtract to find the time required. How many bundles per 
 day could you run at this rate ? 
 
 2. If the piece-rate is 5 cents per dozen, how much would you earn 
 
 per day of factory length? Per week of factory length? 
 
81 
 
 3. How many bniullcs wouUl you have to do in a day to cai'ii tlic 
 
 average daily wa<ie of $2.00 .' 
 ■1. What fraction represents your daily rate in bundles compared 
 
 with the average daily rate .' 
 
 5. Which one of the folloAving fractions comes nearest to repre- 
 
 senting your efficiency: i/s, y^, %, 1/2, %, %, v^. .' What 
 would it be in per cent f 
 
 6. How much are you being paid for this week's work.' If your 
 
 earnings are indicated by your answer to question "J, how 
 much is the company "out" because you are only learning 
 how to earn.' How much are you yourself "out" because 
 you are not yet up to the average.' 
 
 7. If you spoiled six i)airs of sleeves irretrievably, and had the 
 
 cost of the goods deducted from your pay, how much would 
 you lose if the goods cost lO^/o cents per yard of 36" width, 
 assuming that the i)ieces wei-e cut side by side in the most 
 economical ari-angement .' 
 English — 
 
 1. Write in your notebook the meaning of tlie following terms: 
 
 sleeve-pieces folder 
 
 joining edge scroll 
 
 shoulder end presser foot 
 
 seam faces back tension 
 
 cambric retard 
 
 2. Head from some selected source about the manufacture of 
 
 cambric. 
 
 3. Write from memory a half page or more telling how it is made. 
 
82 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Page 
 Section I. Introduction 3 
 
 Section II. Methods of Preparatory Traininii' 4 
 
 1. Pnblic part-time preparatory scliool. 
 
 2. Factory vestil)nle school. 
 
 Section III. Vocational Teaching 01)jectives 7 
 
 Section IV. General Instructional Content S 
 
 1. The Local Company. 
 
 2. Manufacturing costs. 
 
 3. Markets and competition. 
 
 4. Business turnover. 
 
 Section X. Common Factory Knowledge 12 
 
 1. Tlie local organization for production. 
 
 2. ]\Iatei-ials used in factory production. 
 
 3. Eipiipment. 
 
 a. Construction, operation and care of machines. 
 1). Cafeteria and recreation rooms. 
 
 4. Routing system. 
 
 5. Card and ticket sj^stems. 
 
 6. Employment and training. 
 
 Section VI. Detailed Analysis of Certain l)e])artm;Mits 29 
 
 1. Overall. 
 
 2. Sleepingwear. 
 
 3. Children's sleeper. 
 
 4. F'olding. 
 
 Section VII. Use of Job Instruction Sheets 77 
 

 583 
 
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