THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING By AMBROSE TAYLOR AMBROSE TAYLOR '(She TAYLOR SYSTE:M o/ PRUNING By AMBROSE TAYLOR Being an efficient method of pruning deciduous fruit trees for best results, as developed by the author after twenty-five years of practical work and study, and containing valuable information as to the care and irrigation of the orchard, the preparing of the ground for planting, the handling and drying of the fruit, etc., etc. PRESS OF EATON a CO. 1917 SAN JOSE. CAL. (COPYRIGHT, 1917 BY AMBROSE TAYLOR) / ro\vn in an orchard that has been pruned hy tlie Ta\"lor svstem for three vears. ^-m Limb of an Imperial Prune tree, 9 inches long, with about 16 prunes on it. This tree has been pruned the last two years by the Taylor system. This orchard was non-productive before using this sys- tem to renew it. CONTENTS Page Cluipter 1 1'^ Preparing" the soil for tree setting — Time to set trees — Selecting the trees — Laying off the ground and setting the trees — How to cut trees for setting. Chapter II 27 How to cut the tree after it has had one gear's growth — The importance of forming a good crotch and how it is accomplished — The season for prun- ing. Chapter HI of) How to prune the trees the second and third years — Pruning in windy sections — Spraying for curl leaf. Chapter IV 43 Pruning the tree the fourth year. Chapter \' 50 The Apple and the Fig trees. Chapter \'I 57 Renewing the life of the tree. Chai)ter VU 6S Cultivation and Irrigation. Chapter \11I 71 The im])ortance of drying fruit |)roperly and how it should be done. Cha])ter IX 75 Cultivation of grape vines. Chapter X 78 Fruit growing in the Eastern States. FOREWORD I WISH to explain to my readers my motive in writing- this little book. I have spent half of my lifetime, or over twenty-five years, in studying the effects of pruning decid- uous fruit trees. The main part of my experience has been adapted to California soil and climate. Any knowledge gained from reading" books 1 did not consid- er as knowledge until 1 proved it, by my own experimenting. I had no idea of writing a book on this subject when 1 start- ed to study the life of a tree. My great love of Xature led me to become more interested in the underlying principles that gov- ern this particular phase or expression of .life. The tree lias the same iriterest to me that the human body has to the surgeon. The same plan or system exists in the life of a tree that exists in our own physical body. I regret that I have not kept exact records of all m\- experi- menting along these lines, though I feel that it would have been a difficult task, had I luidertaken to keep notes of the many dis- coveries that 1 have made, as my whole life and mind has been absorbed in this very interesting study. I sometimes feel that words are inadequate to express all that I wish to give out to my fellows-workers in the fruit industry, and I am not able lo express all that I know on this great subject in this little book. I only hope to awaken the minds of the fruit growers to the value of careful and scientific methods of pruning deciduous fruit trees and give to them an exact system in concise form which they can readily follow and prove the merit of same to their own satisfaction. Through experience T have learned that there is no sucli thing as chance in Xature. There is a cause for every outward manifestation of life we see. We may not be familiar with the first ]:)rinciples that g(^v- ern what we see. I agree with the Apostle Paul when he said that it was the "Unseen that was real." It is the unsc^en that is the cause. There is little use to deal witli ettects when we over- Inok the cause. When wc have an uiidcrstaiiclinf;- of the eausc that will ])ro- diice certain eiYects, it is possible to formulate a system. This is what I endeavored to do, and I have been snccessful in formulating" a system of pruning deciduous fruit trees favor- able to the soil and climate of Caifornia. After spending- so many years to establish this system of jM'uning, I felt that 1 did not want to monopolize what I knew for my own exclusive use. It was my earnest desire to give the general public the opportunity to receive it. I felt that I wished that every man who was interested could have the advantage of what it has taken me so many years to prove. At first I thought of trying to teach. This was the only medium I could think of through which to give out my knowl- edge to the world. I- soon found, hov/ever, that it w^ould over- tax my strength to try to teach all who were eager for informa- tion on this subject. I realized that, if it could be given out in some effective form, it v;oidd mean millions of dollars added to the income of those engaged in the fruit industry. When I affirm that I have proved the system I am giving out, I wdsh to emphasize it in such a way that it wall make an impression on the minds of my readers, so that they may have faith and not doubt that I have not thoroughly tested every rule, or the different cuts, on the several varieties of fruit trees that this book treats of. 1 am not writing of some one else's ex- periments, or of some experiments that I have not had safficient evidence of the result to prove that it can be satisfactorily re- lied upon. That there is a system in Nature, I know every close ob- server of Nature or one who lives in close touch wdth natural laws giAcrning the \miverse will concede to be a fact. If this is true, there is no reason wdiy we should not discover the system that governs any particular depaitment of Nature. I claim that I have discovered many of the natural laws that govern the life of fruit trees in California. I ask m}- readers to make use of my rules, and when they have tested them thor- oughly they wnll have the knowledge that I wish them to gain through a careful reading and sludv of this book. ]{xperience is the only true teacher. We cannot always de- ]-)cn(l on what we read in bocks. Practical experience can be depended on. We are helped by being given rules to follow from the other fellow's experience. I have tried to be the pathfinder, or pioneer, in this work, although there is an awak- ening of interest at the present time in this subject. The latter part of 1914 I discovered that the University of California had opened up a department dealing with Pomology. Since that time I have been very much interested in the growth of their work, and there has been a co-operative interest ex- istin.g between m}self and the Professors in charge, as well as the class of students that are under the instruction of that de- partment. I sincerely sympathize with this work, and I feel that the interest has just begun in trying to understand the ef- fects of scientific principles in cutting a tree. This system that I have decided to give out in book form, 1 know will benefit many people. I have decided to use this me- dium for teaching what I can conscientiously say is a reliable system of pruning deciduous fruit trees, because of the many requests of interested friends and fruit growers, and also be- cause of my own consciousness of the great need in the fruit growing industry of scientific knowledge, gained through a life- time of practical experience. Yours sincerely, AMBROSE TAYLOR. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OE PRL'XIXG 13 CHAPTER I. Preparing the Soil and Setting Trees T HE first thiiip- to be thought of in startino- the s^rowth of trees is to see that the soil is in a good productive state. It is a good idea to make some investigation of the ele- ments of the soil and its adaption to the growth of certain vari- eties of trees, and also study the scientific methods of su.oply- ing the elements that are lacking to produce the active grov/th of trees. There is so much that can be written about the many vari- eties of soils in the State of California, it would fill a book it- self, which 1 have no idea of doing. I intend to confine myself to a few useful hints necessary to fruit growers, in order for them to get the best results from selecting suitable soil for their purpose, also to aid them by giving them some simjole rules tr; follow in preparing the different soils for setting trees. In preparing the soil for setting trees, it is well to begin by sowing vetch, barley or oats after the first rains in the fall of ihe } ear and plowing this crop under the following year, the lat- ter part of ]March or the first of April, and plow it over again in June of the same }'ear. This will be enough cultivation un- til the first of the next }ear. Wdien the trees are set in January or February the soil should l)e thoroughlv cultivated at that time, ]olowed deepl}' and disked so that the soil is well pulverized and in a good tillable condition. This method of using a cover crop to enrich the soil requires tlie sacrifice of a year's crop, which man\' fruit growers cannot aft'ord. For that reason, I would not advise this treatment of the soil if it is in a good productive condition, but if it is in an impoverished condition it is not a waste of time to start from the foundation by building up the soil, giving it the proper stimulation necessary to feed and nourish strong and fruitful trees. 14 THE TAYLOR S\'ST]{M Ol- PRUXIXG Showing an Apricot tree in its natural form when brought from the nur- sery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. Cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 15 I will irieiitiou a few well known varieties of soil in the State. There are the heavy soils snch as the doby and clay. These soils need special cultivation. They should be plowed deep, not less than 8 or 10 inches in depth, and thoroughly disked, so that the ground becomes well pulverized. The light soils, such as the sandy, need not be plowed over 5 or 6 inches deep, and less cultivation in other ways. The latter grade of soil is easy to cultivate. It does not require much more than half of the work that the heavy soils need to keep them in a good condition. There is a section of land in this State that is called the hard- pan soil. I mention this because in its natural state it is vei y poor land for fruit trees. It can be used for berries or small fruit. It cannot be made profitable for fruit trees unless the hard surface is dynamited through to the under soil, which is very productive. With good drainage and plowing this soil can be brought out. I have known trees to thrive well in thi< s(>il after the dynamiting process. It is not necessary to use a fertilizer on the heavy soils at tree setting time. The lighter soils will be benefited by the use of manure, if care is used not to let it come in close contact with the trees. It should not be pennitted to be any closer than -i inches to the tree. It has the effect of burning the tree if it is too near, and at the setting time stage the tree has not strength to survive. Many people make this mistake and the result is that they lose their trees, by them dying at an early age. I think it is the safest not to use a fertihzer until the second year. I especially recommend it to be used on the light soils not later than the second year. It is not my intention of treating extensively of the soils, as this is not in my line. There are soil experts that specialize in analyzing difterent soils and discovering the elements that are lacking and advising just what kind of a fertilizer should be used to supply the elements that are needed. It is not extravagance to secure the best knowledge on a subject of so much import- ance to the fruit grower as the productive elements of the soil. l(j THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Showing a two-vear-olcl French Prune tree, n. its natural tonu when brought from the nursery, and the same tree properly eut to a stub ready for setting-. The cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNIXCx 17 NURSERY STOCK. I feel that a fe^v remarks regarding nursery stock may in- spire my readers to take a deeper interest in tliis important fac- tor in successful fruit growing. The more interest and appre- ciation that the fruit grower gives to nursery stock, the more the nurseryman will try to become efficient in his special part of carrying out the purpose cf obtaining the best results in hor- ticulture. I assume that the majority of my readers have some knowl- edge of the life and growth of trees. In what is termed in hu- man life as the prenatal period, in tree life it is the presetting period, or the period of growth that takes place in the nursery previous to the setting. For those that have no knowledge regarding the nursery work or the beginning of the life of a tree, I will explain that the seed is planted in the nursery usually in November or De- cember, Trees grown from seed planted from October the 24th un- til November the 23rd will produce trees that would have more fruitful and reproductive qualities. This is owing to planetary conditions. The sun is passing through the zodiacal sign of Scorpio at this time of the year, which is a fruitful and repro- ductive sign. This comes under the heading of astrology. If more attention were given to the influence of planetary condi- tions on the earth and its products, there would be greater re- sults derived from the resources of the earth. The planting of the seed is to form the root part of the tree. My readers may not think that it is important to have the ele- ments of fruitfulness in this part of the tree, but that is a mis- take. The root of the tree is the source of supplying the life principle to the tree. After the seed is planted it should grow from two to three years before it is budded. The season for budding trees is usu- ally the months of August and September. The last part of August, after the 21st of the month, up to the 20th of Septem- ber, planetary conditions are favorable, because the sun is pass- 18 THF. TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Shcnving a Cherry tree with a one-x ear-old top budded onto a four-year- old root, and the same tree properly cut to a stul), ready for setting. Tlie cross marks indicate where the tree was Imdded onto tlie ror^t. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 19 ing through the zodiacal sign of A'irgo at this time of the vear. It is a sign that favors any kind of chemistry, and it is at this time that the chemical process of blending the root stock and the scion or the tree takes place. This time of the year is favor- al)le for any kind of tree grafting. In fact it has been used in moderri times unconscious of the natural laws governing it. There are many rules we follow today that have been given us by former generations, that had more scientific knowledge than we have about the laws of Nature. The nurseries have been using almond, apricot, peach and myrobolin root to form the stock or the body of the tree. Af- ter this is two or three years of age the budding of the scion or tree onto this root takes place. The growth above the bud is cut away to give the new tree or scion a chance to draw the vitality from the root. I wish to make it impressive that the scions that are used for budding trees should be chosen from the strong and vigorous ])art of the tree and not from the wild growth that is lacking in fruitful properties. After the tree has been budded onto the root, it should grow from one to three years, and sometimes it is let grow a much longer period. Personally I prefer setting trees one and two years of age. There are some roots better adapted for certain soils. The myrobolin root is better adapted to the heavy soil, .especiall\" for French and Sugar prunes. The almond root is best adapted to Ihe light sandy soils. The nurseries use both almond and apricot root for Imperial prune trees. The apricot is much better than the almond. I find it is better for the fruitfulness or productive qualities of the Imperial prune. I have made these few^ remarks in order to assist the fruit growers in making good selections of trees for the purpose of setting. In making a selection of trees for setting, choose trees that have good roots. The root is the main source of supplying the life-^ivin^- forces to the tree and if it is not in a o-ood healthv 20 THE TAM/IR SVSTKM ()F rRUNIXC Showing an Imperial Prune tree in its natural form when broui^ht from the nursery, and the same tree properl}- cut to a stul). ready for setting. The cross marks indicite where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SVSTE:\[ OF PRUNING 21 condition, free from knots and insects, it is deficient. Clioose trees on which the buds are not too scattered. They are apt to be more fruitful. Of course, the strength and vitality of the tree is equally to be considered. Learn to detect the differ- ence between trees grown from strong wood growth, and trees that are grown from wild and unfruitful wood. Demand the best from the nurseryman and he will surely meet the demands. The selection of good trees regardless of expense is the best economy. It is difficult to have good results from anything that is not started right. This is the reason that every fruit grower should be interested in the nursery stock, and seek to co-operate with and support the nurseryman that supplies the best trees, because it is one of the most important factors in the productiveness and longevity of the tree. LAYING OFF THE GROUND AND SETTING THE TREES. For setting prune trees, lay olT the ground so that the trees will be set in squares 22 ft. apart. The old system of setting- prune trees was to set them 18 ft. apart, but we find that after the tree is over 20 years of age it needs more space for growth. Examine the tree and the roots, and cut oft" all parts of the root that have been broken. Set the tree so that the roots are spread apart sufficiently to give it space enough to grow ; see that the roots are perpendicular, giving them a chance to grow deep into the soil, instead of growing too much on the surface. Set the tree so that the bud of the tree will not he over 2 inches below the surface. By close observation the fruit grower will be able to recognize the part of the tree called the bud. It is the mark where the tree has been budded on to the root stock. Notice illustrations in this book of different varieties of trees selected from nursery stock, showing the markings of the bud on them. Cut all deciduous fruit trees, such as prune, peach, apricot, pear, nectarine and their several varieties, to a heading 2^ inch- es above the earth, just above a bud. Remove all the lateral 22 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Showing a Peach tree in its natural form wlien l)rought from the nursery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. The cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 23 limbs, leaving it in tlie form of a stub, according to ilKistrations in tbis book. ^^llen a tree is set tbe eartb sbould be tramped around it, eo tbe soil comes in close contact with the tree. If there is quite a lot of moisture in the soil at the time the tree is set, the moisture will pack the soil enough. This assists nature in help- ing the tree to become well grounded or firmly rooted in the earth. Apricot, peach, pear and nectarine trees should be set 24 feet apart. This will give them plenty of room for spreading growth, and at the same time there is no waste of space. Cherry trees need more space. They should not be set closer than 28 feet. \\^alnut trees should be set 85 feet apart. They recjuire more space than fruit trees. I hope my readers have a clear understanding of hovr fruit trees should be set with the bud two inches beneatli the surface of the earth, and cutting the tree about 24 inches above the earth, just above a bud. This is left on the tree to form its new growth. Remove all the lateral limbs, and ]ea^'e the tree in tlie form of a stub. This method applies to fruit trees of the deciduous type. In cutting the tree just above the bud or cut- ting it to a head, care should be used to cut it so that there will not be a stub left on it caused from too much of the old growtii left above the bud. It should be trimmed off even. Walnut trees should be set so that the bud is two inches be- neatli the surface of the earth, the same as the fruit trees. The dift'erent nature of the walnut tree requires that it should be cut dift'erently. Cut the walnut tree so that there is 86 to 40 inches of growth above the surface of the earth. Cut it be- tween buds, and wax the cut so that it does not lose too much of the vitality of the tree. Remove all the lateral limbs, just the same as the fruit trees, leaving it in the form of a stub. The almond tree is set the same as the fruit trees. Cut 24 inches above the earth and leave a few of the lateral limbs on the almond tree. Notice the illustration in this book of the al- mond tree showing the lateral liml)s that liave been left on it at setting time. 24 THE TAYLOR S\ STEM OF PRUNING Showing- an Almond tree in its n.'itnral form when l)rought from tht nursery, and the same tree properly cut for setting. The cross iViark; show where the tree was budded onto the root. THE TAYLOR SYSTExAl OF PRUXIXG 25 Cut the almond tree between buds, the same as the walnut. If there are no buds between the lateral limbs, then cut just above a lateral limb, and cut the lateral limb back to 3 inches from the main limb. You will notice a picture of the almond tree that does away with the necessity of cutting to a lateral limb. The picture shows buds, and it is much better to cut to buds if possible. It requires less work and attention. This is a good point to remember in making a selection of trees in the nursery. If the tree has buds between the lateral limbs, it may seem to be a small thing to be considered, but it amounts ro something in labor saving later. The time of the year for setting trees in California is in January and Februar}'. The earth at that time is in readiness to start the growth of trees. If any other time of the year should be selected for setting trees, they would have a tendency to be retarded in their growth. The laws of Nature are such that if auything is retarded in its infancy, it has a hard struggle to overcome this stunted con- dition and form new habits of growth. 2(i THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING French Prune tree, one year after Pl-^l^;^-i^,|;:;;;,'^,;;:g'H :;o;al; out from the main body of the tree^ ^^.l^J^^g ow Use the system of be hard to form a good croteh *5°'? '"7„,f„oT a ml cut it hack leaving cutting all these limbs oft except 'he/™ ^o^ ami ^^^_^^^_ ^^^^ ^^^^^ only 4 inches of the new growth. \ on will na\c „ vear. THE TAYLOR vSYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 27 CHAPTER H. How to Cut the Tree After It Has Had One Year's Growth THIS chapter deals with cutting the young tree properly, af- ter it has heen set one year. Pruning the young tree at this age is very important, and should not he neglected, hecause this is the time to cut the tree to form a strong center or crotch. The young tree that we cut in the form of a stub, at setting time, v.ill have several small lateral limbs, after it has had a year's growth. Cut all of tliese new lateral limbs ofif except one, which we choose to form the main body of the tree. Choose the strongest and most vigorous of the lateral limbs for this purpose After cutting off all the lateral limbs excejn one, cut this one that is chosen back uiitil there is only three or four inches of the new growth left on the main body of the tree. The purpose we have had in cutting back this new lateral limb was to draw enough strength from the roots of the tree to form a strong body before we permit it to put forth its main branches. The tree has been given sufficient time for the strength and vitality of the root of the tree to become established before it starts the growth of its main branches. Cut the tree just above a bud so that there will not be a stub or knot on the tree where the new branches .^tart their growth. Cutting the tree by this system, if strictly adhered to, will form a center or foundation of the tree that will stand the bur- den of lieavy crops for many years without any danger of the crotch splitting. This system applies to the several varieties of deciduous fruit trees such as apricot, ap])le, peach, pear, prune, plum and nectarine. Walnut trees should have quite a different system of form- 28 THE TAYLOR SVSTl-AI ( )I^^ PRIWIXC .^ . y ^ ^^' / / 1 « . ^ - / / / / / X ,.-- ..<-'"' ..^^^' A French Praiie limb, showing where it was cut the year liefore and the growth it has made. ing the crotch fi-oni the frtiit trees. Their nattire is different. They are slower in growth. It reqnires more time for them to reach matnrity. If my readers will recall we left 36 inches of growth on the walnnt tree. It was cut to a heading of 36 inches instead of 2-1: inches, as for the frnit trees. I will mention again that the cuts made on a walnnt tree should be waxed because walnut trees have larger peth than the fruit trees, and if it is left exposed to the air, its strength is exhausted by drying out. This can be prevented by using a grafting wax, asphaltum or anything that will protect the cuts from the air. The lateral limbs that grow out on the walnut tree the first year shotdd not be cut off". Let them grow until the second year. Olive trees are of a difi"erent natural growth fron^. the fruit trees. 1'hev should be treated the same as the walnu.t trees at THK 'jwvi.oR s^■s'^^:M oi- prlxixc 29 A French Prune limb, showing the second-year cutting. This second- year cutting is needed very much on old limbs, to develop new fruit spurs. this stage of growth. Almond tixcs should not he prtmed tho first year. They are of the slow growth the same to some ex- tent as the walnut. I do not like to leave this suhject without trying tc make a strong impression on the minds oi" my readers of the value and importance of forming a strong crotch to the tree. This is an absolute necessity in securing the health, longevity and strength to endure storms and heavy fruitage, and is necessar\- to get the best out of a tree. It represents the same principle that permeates all life. It is of little value to try to improve a structure of any kind wdien the framework or the foundation of the structure is deficient. This system of cutting back the first year's growth of the fruit trees conserves the vitality of the tree, and gives it a ciiance to draw sufficient nourishment from the root and at the same time gives the root a chance to conserve its energy before it assumes the responsibility of supporting the life of new branches. The best season of the year to prune trees is from October 10 r]]]\ TAYLOR SYSTE^r OF PRUNING French Prune liml) that shows where the fruit spurs are out to the end of the limh. There cannot he much new growth when the hmhs are like this, as they are becoming weak. The ilUistration l:)elo\v shows how to cut the Hmb to renew its life. Frencli Prune limh, sliowing- wliere it has 1)een cut to a Imd, leavin.u half of the new .growth on tlic tree. Tliis will produce an acti\'e urowlli and renew the life of the limh. THE TAYLOR SYSTEiAI OF PRUNING 31 the 20tli until February the 20th. The saps in the trees are not aetive at this time of the year. In tlie spring, from the first of Alarch until the first of July, the saps of the fruit trees are flowing upward. It is at this time of the year that a tree makes most of its new wood gro\vth. Af- ter the first of July the sap begins to flow downward. Th(3 downward course is more gradual and less active. After the tliird month it begins a settled or restful period. Experience has taught me that it is the safest to wait until after the twentieth of October to begin pruning fruit trees. The first of the pruning season is the best for productive and fruit- ful results. Planetary conditions are favorable at this time of the year. The sun passes through the zodiacal sign of Scorpio, which is a fruitful sign, at this time of the year. I do not expect my readers to follow up the rule of pruning all of their trees at this time of the year, I know that the pruu- ing season is '^ood until after February the 20th, and it is nec- essary for those that have large orchards to niake use of the en- tire pruning season to give their trees the care that is neces- sary for them. Try pruning trees that have not been very fruit- ful in the past in the early pruning season and see if there is not a marked improvement in their productiveness. Some fruit growers make the uiistake of pruning trees later, after they are in blossom and when the sap has l^ecome active in its upward course. This theory of pruning at this time of the year is with the idea that they can thin the fruit at the same tim.e they prune the tree. I believe that it would ouly require a little investigation and observation to an interested uiind to prove the follv of this system of pruning. The effects are that the tree begins to decline, and, in four or five years, if this is kejit u]), the tree will die. Perhaps one who is not deeply in- terested in the life of a tree would not notice the results in one year's time, and would continue to practice this metliod of prun- ing until it would be too late for the trees to survive. This is the main purpose T have in writing- this book, to save the in- experienced fruit grower from practising such disastrous the- ories, which are so detrimental to. the fruit growing industry. jNTy aim is to give them theories pnd principles that hp.ve been choroughlv tested through manv vears of experience with clo-e ;^2 THE TAYLOR SVvSTEM OF IVRTXIXC Limb of a Pear tree, showin.f;- it before it was eiit. Same liml) atlcr it has iiceri cut. Tliis is tlie i)roper way to cut a i)ear limb THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 33 A Freiich Prune liml). showing where to cut 1)ack, and also how to cut off the lateral limhs to keep life in this limb. Do not cut back to a lateral limb if it can be avoided. This picture represents a cut made to a limb, Init in tliis case it could not be avoided because the wood was dead back to this limb and had to be removed to renew the life forces in the remain- ing part of the limb. In a case of this kind, cut back the ends of the lat- eral limbs also, because the dead wood indicates that the whole limb is in an impoverished condition and in need of the end clipping to renew its strength. attention to the subject. I realize that very few people are will- ing or have the opportunity to focus so much attention on this subject. This is the reason I wish to make it possible for oth- ers to understand this system as I do, after many years of hard and dif^cult study and experimenting- with different theories. Having finished with the subject of pruning fruit trees and the natural flow of the saps in their anmial course, 1 will men- tion the walnut tree. It differs from the fruit tree in its mani- festation of life's forces. The saps are active at a diff'erent sea- son of the year. It must have different care. It cannot be ])runed properly the same time of the year that fruit trees are ;i4 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING An Apricot limb, showing how the lateral limbs grow, and where the buds are in between them, and an Apricot limb showing where it has been cut between buds instead of cutting to a lateral limb. prtmed. The entire nattire of the tree is different. It has a very short season of inactivity or restfulness of the saps of tlie tree. This season comes after the 15th of March, and lasts un- til the 20th of April. Prtining the walnut tree at this time of the year is safe. At any other season there would he a risk of it heing a detriment to the tree as well as to the fruitfulness for the coming season. The almond tree can be pruned more like the fruit trees. The nature of the flow of the saps in their upward and down- ward course are similar and the season for pruning- is about the same. The olive tree is about the same. The only difference is in the first year's growth of the almond and olive tree. They are slower in growth and the system of removing all of the lateral limbs except one, to form a new trimk of the tree, should not be used. They should be let grow in their natural state until the second year before pruning them. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 35 CHAPTER HL Pruning the 1 rees the Second and Third Years THE second and third year's prunino- of fruit trees should be with the idea of forming- the main l3ranches of the tree. The second year the tree will have several new lateral limbs. They will branch out from the new growth that was left on the tree from the preceding year — the new liml) that was chosen to form the new body of the tree, and was cut back to 3 or 4 inch- es of the old wood. We must choose the strongest of the new lateral limbs to form the main branches of the tree. Choose from 3 to 5, judge as to their merit from their strength and vitality, and cut out all the rest of the lateral limbs except those that are chosen. The limbs that have been chosen to form the main branches of the tree should be cut back according to the strength and vital- ity of their growth. If the growth has been vigorous, amount- ing to 24 inches or more, cut it back to 8 inches of the main limb. If it has not been over 12 or 15 inches, cut it back to 4 or 6 inches of the main limb. The principle is to cut back more vigorously when the new growth is weak. This principle of prtming applies to the deciduous fruit trees mentioned in the preceding chapter. The reason for cutting back weak limbs vigorously is to conserve the life givnig forces in the root of the tree, giving it more time to generate more of the creative force, before there is a drawing to supply the vital- ity of the limb. It is useless to exhaust this creative force on a weak growth when it can be stored up to produce a more active growth later. This is a system that few understand and T hope to make it plain to my readers. We also cut the tree at this age to give it the proper form in choosino- the main branches. Of course, thev should be 36 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Four-year-old French Prune tree, showing the crotch and how it is pruned. THE TAYLOR SYSTEAI OF PRUXIXG 37 The same tree as on preceding page, showing its growth and the foliage ihe same vear after it had leaved out. 38 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING chosen so that they will be alternating as much as possible. This gives the tree a better form and makes it well balanced. The walnut tree at the second year period has just about ar- rived at the same stage of development that the fruit trees have readied the first year. There will be several lateral limbs branching cut from the main part of the tree. They should not be cut off like we did with the fruit trees. Instead of cutting them all off, and leaving the tree in the form of a stub to form a new crotch, as we did in the case of the fruit trees, we choose from 3 to 5 of the best lateral limbs to form the main branches of the tree, the same as we do with fruit trees the second year of their growth. Thin out the weak lateral iimbs, and use the system of cutting back the limbs that are chosen to form the main branches. Use judgment in the cutting back or end clip- ping. A weak growth should have a vigorous cutting back. A strong healthy growth does not need so much of the end clipped off. Always cut just above a bud so that the tree is smooth and free from knots and stubs caused from too much of the growth left above the bud that will start the new growth on the tree the following year. The olive tree has a tendency to gTow more of the lateral limbs than the walnut. This makes it necessary to do more thinning out. Just leave enough to form the main branches of the tree. The almond tree is very similar to the olive. It requires about the same pruning. The difference in the soil and climate affects the nature of a tree in its tendency to form a spreading or an upward growth. In very hot climates a spreading growth is desirable, because it protects the trunk of the tree from sunburn. The red clay soil in some sections of California produces a spread- ing growth. In sections of the State where the spreading growth is not needed, the pruning should be wdth tlie idea of producing more of the upward growth. This can be accom- plished by cutting to an inside bud and thinning or cutting out more of the outside lateral limbs, changing the growth to the in- side of the tree, which creates an upward growth. The op- posite system, or cutting to an outside i)ud and thinnin^- out tlie inside lateral limbs, will produce a spreading growth. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 39 There are many points to be considered in pruning trees at tlie age of two and thiree years. This is a formation period. \Ve depend on the pruning to form the tree on practical and use- ful lines that will fit the conditions that the tree will have to en- dure during its entire lifetime. The red clay soil is in the section of the Sacramento Valley and in the foothills of San Joaquin Valley. There is a sandy soil of a different variety in a section near Fresno. This soil produces an upward growth. It has the hot climatic conditions to contend with. It is very necessary in tliis section to prune the trees to form the spreading growth. The two main points in pruning the tree when it has reached its second year's growth is, first to cut it back vigorously enough to store up or conserve the life giving forces of the tree, so that it is not over- taxed by supporting a weak growth that will not be strong enough in vitality to stand the burdens of fruit bearing in later years. Our m.ain object should be to fortify the tree with enough strength before it is permitted to form too much wood growtli. The secondary object or idea we should have in view is to prune the tree so that it will be formed in harmony with tlie requirements that are necessary for practical use in its na- tive climate. This is also the time the fruit grower should protect his trees by spraying them. The menace of the curl leaf on the peach, pear and nectarine is causing the fruit grower much loss and may counteract the benefit that is derived from proper priming. I recommend spraying these varieties of trees in February with a mixture of bluestone, sulphur and lime. THE THIRD YEAR'S GROWTH. The third year the new growth will start from near the ter- minal part of the main branches of the tree, or where we made cuts on the tree at its second year's pruning. From the bud below the place we made the cut, after the tree has been cut back, the new growth will be strong and vigorous, which it would not have been if we had not cut back the ])receding year. This new crrowth usuallv ranqes from 36 to 40 inches. If it 40 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING French Prune tree, six years old, that has been properly pruned. had not been cut back to give it renewed strength, there would be at least half of this growth lacking. I hope my readers will test this system for themselves, and prove its value to their own satisfaction, and derive the benefit of understanding this principle that produces so nmch assist- ance in the growth of a tree. The necessity and importance of the cutting back of weak limbs I wish to make as impressive as I can, because 1 know how reluctant the average fruit grower is in cutting their trees this way. They usually cut ju.st the o]:)posite. Tlie stron.g THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 41 French Prune tree, seven years old, sliovvin^- the old method of pruning. Compare it with the six year- old tree, shown on preceding page, that has been pruned properly. branches ate cut more than the weaiv branches. I'his is jnst the principle that keeps an uneven growth. Cut the weak branches l3ack more than the strong- branches, and tk.e tree will soon be brought out equally well proportioned. The third year apricot trees will have a cluster ot small lat- eral limbs on the main branches of the tree. If the new growth has been strong enough there \vill be some buds above this clus- ter of lateral limbs. If the limb is strong- and has made a 42 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING growih of 3 feci: or more, cut back to tlie buds above the lateral limbs. Note that the principle is not to cut back too vigorously healthy and strong branches. If the new growth is not more than 15 inches, cut below the cluster of lateral Imibs. If the new growth has been very weak, cut back more vigorously, so that it has a renewal of its vital power before it supports the cluster of lateral limbs. All fruit trees have new lateral limbs the third year. They branch out between the lateral limbs that were chosen to form the main branches of the tree. The new lateral limbs should be thinned out. Choose the strongest as far as possible and give them enough s])ace to grow and receive enough strength from the parent limb and with the idea of forming the tree on symmetrical and practical hues. I will mention again that we depend on the pruning at this time to form the foundation of the tree. There are some points about the prevailing winds of differ- ent localities that should be considered in pruning. They have the effect of driving the growth of the trees to one side. Cut the side exposed to the wind more vigorously so as to strength- en it so it will be able to cope with the wind. Cut back the ends of the main limbs, leave more of the lateral limbs, do more thinning of these limbs on the side that is protected from the wind. This method will keep the tree well balanced. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 43 CHAPTER IV. Pruning the Tree the Fourth Year THE fourth year's pruning of fruit trees sliould be for the purpose of preparing the tree for bearing fruit. At this early age there should not be too much fruit bearing wood left on the tree. It overtaxes the strength of the young tree before it is ready to assume the responsibility of productiveness. The earh^ years in the life of the tree are similar to life in the higher kingdoms. It is the period for developing the body that will stand for many years. The energy or life-giving forces should be directed so as to form strong vigorous ^vood growth and not be permitted to exhaust this energy in the creative or reproductive centers. The life of the tree can be prolonged b}' the proper care in its formative period. We left between 6 and 8 inches of the new growth on the main limbs of the tree the second and third years. We do the same again the fourth year. Cut according to the strength and vitality of the new growth. If the new growth is vigorous, leave about 8 inches of new wood on the tree; if medium, about 6 inches : if very weak, only leave 4 inches of the new growth en the tree. The fourth year the tree will have several new lateral limbs. About one-third of these should be thinned out. Leave the short fruit spurs on the tree. Thin out the limbs so that the remaining limbs have room for growth and also for the purpose of giving the tree enough ventilation and the sun exposure that is necessary for a strong, hardy tree. These cuts have no influence on the strength and vitality of the tree. It is the end clipping from the main branches that we depend on to draw forth the life-giving forces in the tree. The cherry tree is more sensitive than other fruit trees and it has a tendency to grow upward in the state of California. The fourth year's end clipping should be with the idea of pro- ducing a spreading growth. Use the system of cutting back to about 6 inches. Make die cut just above an outside bud. Cut to a leaf bud. 44 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Cherry tree, three years old, th.al has been pruned properly lo produce the spreading growth. I wish to explain the difference in the appearance of a leaf l)tul and a fruit bud. The leaf bud is a long pointed bud. The fruit bud is a round, short bud. A little observation will soon teach the fruit grower the dift'erence between leaf buds and fruit buds. This is an important thing to know, as it has so much to do with making the eft'ective cuts on a tree. Cutting to a fruit bud often affects the new growth and coimteracts the end clipping. All fruit trees are influenced bv this. On account of the sensitive nature of the cherry tree, it is more deeply af- fected than any of the other variety of trees. The cherry tree does not have as many lateral limbs as other fruit trees, so it is not necessary to thin out the lateral liml)s. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXJXG 45 Careful end clipping is all the pruning- that is needed for the cherry tree. This has caused many fruit growers to form the idea that cherry trees should not be pruned. This is a mistake. It is just as necessar}- that they sliould have the end clipping to draw forth the vital forces from the root of the tree as any other tree, and they should be cut to form the spreading growth that is practical for easy fruit gathering and it aids the setting of the tree. Pruning the walnut tree the fourth year should be guided by the growth of the tree. If the growth has not been vigor- ous, cut off about 6 inches from the main limbs. Use the same system of end clipping that is used on the fruit trees. It has tlie same effect of renewing the life of the tree. If it has been very vigorous in its growth, do not cut it, because its growth will be sufficient for this stage of the growth of a walnut tree. The maturity of walnut trees is slower than fruit trees, and it is best not to force a too rapid growth for its nature. The almond tree, if it is not very weak in its growth, does not need the end clipping the fourth year. It will need the thin- ning out of the lateral limbs. If there has been some unnatural retarding of its growth, resort to cutting back about 6 inches to a cluster of buds, leaving the buds on the main limb. The olive tree does not require the end clipping the fourth year because the growth should not be hastened. Give it plenty of time to form its wood growth. The attention should be giv- en to cutting the lateral limbs. Thin them out carefully. Lut them close to the parent limb so that there are no knots or dead stubs left on the tree. These are points that seem small, but they are worthy of giving some attention to. Some soils do not produce a very active growth of the olive tree. Do not make the mistake of trying to crowd the growth by end clipping, if the soil is weak. Time is the only proper method for the olive tree at this age. Strengthen the soil by using the proper fertilizer and cultivation. Thinning the lateral limbs of the olive tree keeps the vital forces stored in the tree, thereby retaining its strength for new growth, and does away with the necessity of the end clipping, which is so essential to the fruit trees at this age. Mf t ^ o >. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OE PRUXIXG 47 The different varieties of prune trees should ])e cut Ixick about half of the new growth the fourth year. Thin out all cross lateral limbs. Leave all the fruit spurs.' Do not thin out the fruit. Use the same system on the peach, pe-ir, apricot aiul nectarine trees, and continue the same system of pri;ning these \arieties of deciduous fruit trees every year until thev are 8 or 9 years of age. Leave about the same amount of new wood growth each year. This will form strong healthy trees, well able to survive for many years of active fruit bearing. The prune trees, excepting the sugar prune, do not need any pruning after the fourth year until they are about 7 years of age, except to thin out the cross limbs, cut out tlie weaker lat- eral limbs. It is always best to cut out the limbs that Nature has not endowed with the strength to survive. They will die cai the tree if left on it, after the expenditure of the strength of the tree has been given to the useless limbs. This is poor econ- omy to carry useless burdens. It is the lack of attention to these little things that exhausts the life of a tree, and there is no compensation for it. The sugar prune requires the end clipping every year. The hmbs need this to strengthen them sufficiently to bear the bur- den of their heavy fruitage. There are many different varieties of walnut trees. Some iof them diff"er so much in their nature that it is necessary to make some difference in pruning them after the fourth year. The Eranquette and the common English walnut are more vigorous in their growth than the Mayette. It requires more tiuie for the Mayette walnut to mature. It is a heavier fruit bearing tree, which makes it necessary to form a strong body to enable it to carry the heavy burdens that will be put upon it in its mature life. It is very necessary to use the end clipping every two or three years on the Mayette walnut trees. There is very little need of thinning out the lateral limbs. The Eranquette and common English walnut should have the end clipping when they are 8 years of age. This will be enough pruning for them until they have reached their tenth year. 48 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Cherry tree, nine years old. This tree is 30 ft. high, ll It liad been properly cut back and tiiinned out, it v.onld not have been so difficult to gather the fruit. I wish to remind my readers again that the season for prun- ing walnut trees is very short and different entu'ely from the fruit trees. This is an important point and should not be over- looked, because the flow and activity of the saps of the tree has everything to do with the health and longevity of a tree. Cut- ting at the right time conserves these saps and there is no use- less waste of vitality. The season for cutting the walnut trees is March and April. T prefer to cut as early in the season as possible so that they will not begin to bud before the pruning is completed. f'"'''^ y I \ 1=- V 'It Row of French FranquctLe Walnut trees. The picture shows that this varietx- of Wahiut tree does not develop many long lateral limbs of the wood growth variety. The nature of the lateral limbs of this tree is of the fruit spur variety. 50 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING CHAPTER \'. The Apple and the Fig Trees IHlW'E not nientioned the apple or i'v^ trees. I have had a purpose in not dealing with them at the same time 1 did the other fruit trees. The system of pruning- them is different, and I wish to deal with the system of pruning- these two trees in the form of a synopsis of the entire system of pruning the tree from the hrst year until it has reached maturity. My oh- ject in doing this is to make this system of pruning so plain and impress it on the minds of my readers so that they cannot fad to understand it. This book is written for the men that deal with the products of ^Mother Earth, and it is my aim to give theui the knowledg:e that will enable them to assist nature in l^ringing out the best in a tree. I realize that the man who deals with the scnl has very lit- tle time for studying horticulture from books. His lessons are usually gained from the study of Nature, usually at the expen -e of experimenting without any knowledge as to what will l)e the result of the experiment. I do not wish to elaborate on the subject of horticulture, ^ly aim is to interest my readers in my system of pruning a tree so that they will understand it and have enough confidence in it to give it a trial and demonstrate its value for theniselves. The apple tree is specially adapted to soils that have plenty of moisture. It is only in the damp sections of the state of California that it is profitable to raise apples. The states of Oregon and Washington, where they have a nuich heavier rain- fall, is much more adapted to apple growing. Some of the apple growing sections of California draw their moisture from the fogs, but extensive irrigation is required, ll would not be wise to set apple trees where there are not abun- dant resources to draw moisture from, either natural or arti- ficial means of supplying the need. THE TAYLOR SYSTEAI OF PRUNING 51 Apple tree that has a i;ni. skiukr .muwili. This tree should have been cut back, so it would carr\- its fruit without breaking down or lien ding the limbs of the tree, and at the same lime preventing sunburn. 52 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING The setting- of tiic a])plc tree varies a lilUc h-oni llic othcr fruit trcos. Set tlu' l)iul '2 inehes below the surface aiul cut tlie tree just above a bud, a1)0ut 20 inehes al)ove the earth. Do no{ re- move the lateral linilis. Lay off the i; round so that the trees are set in 30 ft. squares. This gives plenty of space for spread- ing growth. L'se more irrigation with apple trees than wdth other fruit trees. 1 will refer to this later in a chapter dealing with cultivation. Tlie growth of apple trees the first year is not as vigorous as other fruit trees. They are slower in reaching th.eir maturity antl they should not be cut back as vigorously as other fruit trees. Like the walnut, they should have time to mature. Clip the end of the new growth back one-tliird tlie first year, leaving two-thirds of the new growth on the tree. Cut between buds, just above a leaf bud if possible. The second year should be a resting period for the apple tree. There will be several new lateral limbs on the tree the sec- ond }ear. Leave these on the tree. The growth of the apph' tree slunild not be hurried by pruning. Cutting the tree pro- duces too nuich wood growth before the tree is old enough to supply the new growth with strength to support it. The third year's pruning is about the same as the second with other fruit trees. The tree should be pruned to form the tree. The apple needs a spreading growth as much as possible. L'se the system of cutting back about 6 inches of the main limbs. Cut to out- side buds for spreadnig growth. Thin out the lateral limbs about even or alternately, one on the insitle and one on the out- side. Leave them about 4 or 6 inches apart. Cut out all cross limbs close to the parent limb so that the tree will be smooth and free from knots caused from carelessness in pruning. The fourth year should be a resting period the same as the second year. The fifth }-ear thin mit the lateral and cross limbs the same as the third year, Imt do not cut back the ends of the main branches of the tree. The sixtli year is tiie right time to do the enil clipping again.. Cut back b inches of the main limbs. This will strengthen them before they assume the responsibility of bearing fruit. Cut to an outside bucl. This creates the sj^reading gnnvth that is de- THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 53 '' \^.\^' ^EM*^-'^;-'^ Apricoi iree, showing the proper pruning to be done each year. 5^ THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING sirablc for easy gathering of the fruit and it will stand the hard- ships of wind and the weight of the heavy load of fruit better than the upward growth. The horizontal growth has more strength to endure the hardships that the apple tree is_ subject to, from its heavy and burdensome fruit. A tall tree wnth up- ward growth is in danger of splitting when heavily laden with a full crop of fruit. After the sixth year of the apple tree, care should be used to keep the lateral limbs well thinned out so that there is no waste of strength and at the same time it gives the tree enough space for ventilation, and exposure to the sun of all parts of the tree. This insures its health and strength to produce a high «rade of fruit. The lateral limbs should be cut out every year, unless there is a rest needed because of the tree not forming much density of growth. The end clipping every three years is enough for the apple tree. This will be sufficient to renew the life forces by drawing the saps to the terminal parts of the tree in a way that it is equally distributed to all parts of the tree, disseminat- ing its strength so that there is no danger of part of the tree dying. This system can be applied through the entire life of the apple tree. All that is necessary in assisting the grow^th of the apple tree is this scientific system of pruning it from the time it is set. This system of pruning the apple tree is adapted to Califor- nia climate. The eastern climate requires a different sysiem. The end clipping- cannot be relied on where the climate is cold. The thinning out of the lateral limbs is successful, but the short season for pruning makes the end clipping risky. The favorable season for pruning is after the ground has thawed out and be- fore the beginning of the activity of the saps of the tree. This season is not very long. Sometimes not over three days, and very seldom lasts over ten days. The end clipping is not advis- able. It has a tendency to weaken the tree in the eastern cli- mates. However, I am confining my advice to California cli- mate, as my experience has not been extensive in the eastern climates. I will mention the apple tree again in a chapter dealing- with ^ a 56 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING the subject of renewing the hfe of trees that have been neglect- ed through the lack of proper pruning. THE FIG TREE. The setting of the fig tree varies very little from other trees, except that it should not be cut to a heading. Leave it in its natural state. The young fig tree has too large or coarse a pith to stand cutting. The first few years of the life of a fig tree should not be dis- turbed with pruning. There is very little pruning needed un- til it is 10 or 12 years of age. Then thin out the lateral limbs. Cut them close to the junction of the parent limb. Never use the end clipping on fig trees. The pith of the tree is too coarse to stand it. Thinning out the lateral limbs after it has reached maturity will produce a better grade of fruit. Like the apple tree the fig tree needs plenty of irrigation, but it will thrive better in soils that have less moisture. There are very few of the fruit growers that do any pruning to the fig tree. I have tested the thinning out of the lateral limbs, and I find that this is a wonderful assistance in the growth of a fig tree, if practised every two or three years. Cut ofif all the sprouts springing up from the root of the tree. These should have attention every year. They draw the strength from the root of the tree that should be directed to the main part of the tree. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 57 CHAPTER VI. Renewing the Life of the Tree THIS chapter deals with principles that are more important than any other, as they are the principles that will be of more general use and will reach the needs of every fruit grower. They teach the system of renewing the life of the tree that has net had the assistance of the right principle of pruning. Many orchardists are discouraged because their trees are in a dying condition, brought on through neglect or wrong meth- ods of pruning, and many have orchards in wdiich some of the trees are beginning to lose some of their productive qualities. In fact, there are very few orchards that cannot be improved and brought up to a higher standard of productivity, both in quantity and quality of fruit. There are many trees that have had a short life, because they have not had the assistance they should have had m their early age. However, there is a chance for the orchardist to renew the life of his trees at any age. I have been able to dem- onstrate this through my own experience with an old orchard at Evergreen, in Santa Clara County, California. There are many orchards that can be saved as this one was. It was in a very poor condition and almost everybody doubted that it could be renewed. It is a living demonstration of what can be accom- plished in restoring the life and productiveness of an orcliard in a few years wdthout resorting to grafting. There are very fevv' orchards that have reached that stage of decline where it is necessary to have the entire orchard reset. I will start this subject of renew^ing the life of old trers witii some helpful remarks regarding the resetting of trees. Trees can be reset the first year after old trees have been re- moved from the soil, although many orchardists believe that the soil is in too impoverished a condition to reset voung trees at once. Set the tree as described in a previous chapter and use the system of cutting off all the lateral liml)s except one after 58 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Aw old ClK-rry tree that has liad its lite renew <-'(l by proper prnning — cr.tting off the ends of (he limbs. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 59 the hrst gear's gr(n\th and cutting- it l^ack to 8 or 4 inches, which will strengthen the young tree, so that it will thrive, even if the soil is not up to a high standard and has hecome impov- erished through the growth of old trees. If the tree should be weak when it has reached its second year's growth, cut it back more vigorously than you would a tree that had been set in soil that had not been exhausted from the growth of eld trees. Peas, Ijarley or vetch sowed and plow^ed under the follow- ing year enriches the soil and is very good for young trees, es- pecially where trees are reset. Trees that are reset may need a little more Lime, but they scon grow out equal to other trees. If pruned carefully and the soil is cared for, there is no need of loss of time in resetting, as so many orchardists think. In caring for peach, pear and nectarine trees tliat have been neglected, I would advise spraying them for the curl leaf, with a mixture of lime, bluestone and sulphur. This is the best mix- ture to overcome the curl leaf that these variety of trees are subject to. This should be used in February before the leaves start. Old trees that have not had the proper prtniing in their youth need more careful pruning than those that ha\e had prop- er pruning. Where the tops of the trees are dying, cut back the new w^ood to 4 to 6 inches of all the main branches of the tree. If this should require cutting into wood over an inch in diameter, use a dressing of wax, made out of asplialtum and paraffin, pro- portioned 1 lb. of paraffin to 4 lbs. of asphaltum. The cutting- back of the main limbs will make a drawing from the roots of the tree to these terminal parts. Thin out the lateral limbs, leaving only those that are strong and give them enough space to receive a stipply of vitality from the parent limb. A surplus of non-productive lateral liuii)s on a vreak tree is more than it can afford to support. W'q want to avoid all waste of energy until the tree has regained its normal condition. Care should be used in cutting to bi^ls instead of little limbs. Cutting to little limbs or fruil spui> weakens ihe 60 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Apple tree that has been grafted. The picture shows how the limbs have been cut off properly. This is a good practice in Colifornia, l)ut not in Eastern climate. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 61 life-giving- forces of tlie tree. Cnltiiig to a leaf bud is the best cut that can be made on a tree. The long slender bud is the leaf bud. The round buds are the fruit buds. All deciduous fruit trees, after they have reache^^ 10 years of age, or mature growth, require the end clipping c r cutting back of the main limbs from 4 to 6 inches. There is some varia- tion as to how often this should be done. Some trees need the end clipping every year and some do not need it so often. I would advise the end clipping every year when the tree has been neglected, until it has been restored to normal and healthy con- dition. Soils that produce an active wood growth do away with the necessity of the end clipping e^'e^y year. The sugar prune tree requires strong and vigorous wood growth, because it produces so many fruit spurs. It needs a strong wood growth to support its heavy crop. The principal difference in pruning a tree that has been ne- glected, and one that has had- proper pruning, is cutting off all the dead wood on the tree and then cut it back just the same as an ordinary tree. Thin out the lateral limbs the same. ( )f course, there will be more thinning to do. It requires more work and attention to build up the strength of the tree after it has lost its health. Just the same principles of life that exist in the human body. If we neglect our health, we must have care and not overtax our strength until we have time to recup-er- ate. It is the same in the life of a tree. iCut out all the lateral limbs that are weak. Only retain those that are best fitted to survive. If close attention is gi\en to the tree that is on the road to decline, I can promise that sur- prisingly favorable results will be obtained. Every orchardist can be a physician to the tree if he will use the right system. The nature of tree life responds readily to assistance given by pruning, although there has been such little attention given to the systematic pruning of trees. I know of nothing in the scheme of life that has been so neglected. Man has accomplished great things with the cultivation of vegetable and animal life, but the life of the tree has not been sriven the at- G2 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Pear tree, 11 years okl. Tliis pieture shows the proper pruriin of pear trees, which should 1)e done every year. tention that is due it. Let us hope that it is coming into its owu higher expression, at the present age. I hope my readers will take an interest in what every cut on a tree means for its health, productiveness and longevity Before I leave the subject of pruning trees, I will go over seme of the main points again. The end clipping is necessary to draw tlie vitality and strength from the root of the tree to the terminal part of the tree. It disseminates its strength to all parts of the tree and produces a vigorous new wood growth and at ihe same time adding enough vigor to produce new fruit spurs. The life of the tree is prolonged to a very okl age, more than 60 years of age, perhaps much longer. THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 68 Imperial Prune tree on an almond root, showing the proper pruning of a neglected tree. Cutting back the main limbs should be done with care. Cut to buds instead of lateral limbs, a leaf bud if possible. Cuttini; to a limb ^vastes the saps of the tree and weakens the tree. Thin out the lateral limbs, remove the weakest, those that will not survive if left on the tree, give the remaining- limbs enough space for light, ventilation and growtli. Fruit spurs live from one to seven years. P>uit spurs live longer on some varieties of trees than they do on other trees. Apricot, peach, pear and nectarine fruit spurs usually do not last over two years. vSometimes three years if the tree is strong and healthy.. The proper end clipping and thinning out of ^he lateral limbs v.ill strengthen the vitality of the tree enough to produce new fruit s]:)urs as often as they are needed. 64 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING Picture of a Peach tree. 11 years old . The picture shows the tree after it has been pruned properly. This should be done every year. Thin the fruit of the peacli, pear, apricot and nectarine be- fore the pits become hardened. Thin them so that the fruit is from 4 to 6 inches apart. I will mention again the season for pruning trees. From October the 20th until February the 20th. If the trees have not been fruitful, try pruning them before the 28rd of November. This is a fruitful season, and cutting at that time assists Na- ture, or it is in harmony with Nature in its productive qualities. If the orchardist will be loyal in practising the end clipping every year on old trees, he will soon have a renewed orchard. The first year's growth will be weak and perhaps will not yield a large crop. Tlie new growth on the tree may not be over 3 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 6: Showing a Sugar Prune tree grafted onto an old tree, and how it should be pruned. inches. Cut half of this back. The next year's growth will be stronger. Cut away about half of the new growth each year i