\ LIBHARY OF CONGRESS. ;/ te-JK. \ ♦UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, THE OIL REGIONS OF PENNSYLVANIA. WHERE PETROLEUM IS FOUND ; HOW IT IS OBTAINED, AND AT WHAT COST. WITH Ijints for tttyom it Ma% Concern. BY WILLIAM WR1 NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 186 5. ^ Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, by HAEPEE & BROTHERS, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. PEEFAOE. In the latter part of March, I left *my home for the South-West, design- ing to pass through the heart of West-Virginia, Eastern Kentucky, East- ern Tennessee, and thence down the Tennessee valley — directly as a cor- respondent of the New-York Times ; indirectly with a view of collecting materials for a volume on the Border States, their soils, minerals, climate, water-power, social condition, etc., for the guidance of those who might desire to migrate thither after the war. On the way, I proposed to spend a few days in the oil regions of Ve- nango county, Pennsylvania, and afterward visit those of West- Virginia, supposing that a week would probably suffice to do both all needed justice. In accordance with this plan, I walked, jumped, or waded the valley of Oil Creek, from Titusville to Oil City, collecting what facts and observations I could during the three days consumed in the passage. Arrived at the journey's end, I found a discordant, contradictory mass of facts and figures on my memorandum-book ; and came to the conclusion that, whatever I knew the first day, I knew much less the second, and nothing at all the third. Further, that no person outside of Petrolia, and very few in it, were in a much more enviable condition of mind on the subject, if they would own up to the truth. After deliberating afresh, I formed the resolution of visiting every pro- ducing well in that county ; gathering from men, who were supposed to have no interest in misrepresenting, its actual yield ; comparing the figures with those given by officials and neighbors, and out of the whole endeavoring to ascertain the truth, as nearly as might be. At the same time, to " bore," 4 Preface. and "ream," and "pump" every practical man for the results of his observations, if so be it were possible to arrive at one general law or con- clusion respecting the oil regions. The residue of March and nearly three weeks in April were faithfully devoted to this object. The distance traversed on foot was fully two hundred miles — how agreeable the trip, will be easily inferred from what follows. An interest, having more than $100,000,000 of bona fide capital in- vested in it, had until then never received more attention than could be given it in newspaper correspondence or a magazine article. The financial aspect of it had not even been scratched. Indeed, honest writers seemed to avoid reference to it, except in the most general terms, as if it were going beyond their depth. Of course, the Oily Gammons of the press, who had been hired as claqueurs at a theatre, applauded every thing. That was their vocation ! In the following pages I have described the processes of boring the wells, of repairing them after getting out of order, and of refining the oil. I have entered somewhat minutely into the physical formation of the coun- try — a topic which had been almost overlooked, and on some points of which, I hope to have thrown out some valuable ideas for the first time. When adopting the views there presented, I had not perused the Geological Report of Prof. Rogers ; and it is highly gratifying to find that in the main features of the argument advanced, I am fully borne out by that eminent name. But it is to the statistical and financial discussions that I desire princi- pally to direct attention. Those chapters will be read by large numbers who are eagerly in quest of the information therein contained. The facts and figures now given to the public for the first time, together with the modes of taking in over-smart, shrewd, keen, knowing Eastern people, will tell Petrolia needed a searching examination and a scathing exposure ; it has got both. Yet let me not be misunderstood. Underneath a system of falsehood and fraud, that might almost be termed magnificent^ there is a great Preface. 5 basis of fact, which needs to be presented in its true light ; needs to be pro- tected from the misrepresentations of its own pretended friends, who would have ruined it loug since if it had not possessed genuine worth of a high order. It is to censure what is worth censuring ; to strip off and expose what is false and deceptive ; to denounce the cruelty, the lying, the roguery, the abject selfishness of many, that I have for the time being turned aside from my original object to prepare these sheets for the press. I have aimed to state the truth without calumny or prejudice ; to express it clearly and forcibly ; to be as thorough as it was possible within moderate limits. How well or how ill these objects have been accomplished, the reader will judge for himself. It is with a feeling of gratitude that I acknowledge the courtesy, in im- parting information, of Messrs W. H. L. Smith, of Corry ; A. Morrell and Robert B. Gamble, of Titusville ; Edward Fox, of Petroleum Centre ; fra. Boniface, of Rouseville ; T. S. Truaire and C. B. Bliss, of Oil City ; Thomas R. Hennon, of Tideoute ; Col. McClure, then of Plumer ; George S. Siggins, of Howe ; and many others, whose names I do not now recall. Since this volume went to press, reports have been received to the effect that the United States well on Pithole Creek has increased its flow to nine hundred or a thousand barrels per day ; other wells in that local- ity are also said to have improved. On the other hand, certain wells, as the Jersey, on Oil Creek, have fallen off or dried up altogether. No doubt, however, the summer product of petroleum in Venango county is consid- erably larger than that of March and April. By referring to the last chap- ter but one, it will be seen that a margin of about two thousand barrels per day has been allowed for this increase. W. W. Paterson, N. J., May, 1865. CONTENTS. -•-♦-♦- C HAP T E R I. Physical Features and Geology of the Country, v . . 9 CHAPTER II. Appearance of the Country — The Climate — Characteristics of the People, 33 CHAPTER III. Locating and Sinking the Wells, 61 CHAPTER IV. " Struck Oil " — The Law of Lawlessness, .... 79 CHAPTER Y. Obstacles in the Way — The Means used to Overcome them, 97 CHAPTER VI. Statistics of Production, 112 CHAPTER VII. Oil Refining and Refineries, 194 CHAPTER VIII. How Strangers are taken in, 206 CHAPTER IX. Ought I to Invest in Petroleum, and How .... 228 CHAPTER X. Practical Considerations, 260 * The Oil Regions of Pennsylvania. •-♦♦ . CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL FEATURES AND GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. The physical features of the oil region of Pennsylvania are simple, easily understood, and full of interest. The most productive portion of it consists of an irregular quad- rangle, each of its sides being from fifteen to twenty-five miles in length, and its axial line nearly corresponding with the course of Oil Creek between Titusville and Oil City. As far as known, it is limited almost exclusively to the Alleghany Eiver valley and a section of its north- western slope, the principal streams which enter it from that direction having an average fall of about twenty feet to the mile, while that great artery of Western Pennsyl- vania, between "Warren and Pittsburgh, has an average fall of one foot to the mile. At Franklin, the mouth of French Creek, it is nearly eight hundred feet above tide- water, or two hundred and forty feet higher than the sur- face of Lake Erie. The lake shore proper is a compara- tively narrow strip of land, descending from the range of heights which separate it from the Alleghany slope, by 10 Physical Features, etc. frequent and abrupt terraces, to the water. In the oppo- site direction the descent toward the south-east is for a long distance so gentle as scarcely to be noticeable along the water- courses. The country is nearly level, or rolled up into hills of moderate elevation and easy ascent. Such is its general appearance immediately back of the oil region along the line of the Atlantic and Great Western Railway. On leaving Corry for Titusville, the passenger is con- veyed up a rather steep incline for a few miles, on passing which the railroad traverses the summit, a table-land with occasional ridges of very moderate height, or round hil- locks formed of drift — that is, sand and boulders, ground, rounded, and more or less polished. By and by the road enters a slight depression, which increases till it be- comes a ravine, and finally the bottom of a noisy stream, with banks twenty, fifty, and finally one hundred and fifty feet high, at which it reaches Titusville. The railroad extends down the valley seven or eight miles further, the heights on each side becoming more lofty and precipitous, until, at Shaffer's, they reach two hundred and fifty feet, and at Oil City, twelve miles lower, nearly four hundred feet above the Alleghany River, the difference in their summits being inconsiderable. The approaches to that river by the railroad from Mead- ville to Franklin, and by that from Corry to Irvine and Warren, are still more simple than on the route already described, there being no elevations to be climbed before reaching the descent ; but a gentle, downward grade for the entire distance. Starting from a nearly level country, however, the same phenomenon is perceptible as on the Titusville road, namely, heights gradually increasing in altitude and abruptness, until the common objective point Physical Features, etc. 11 (the Alleghany valley) has been reached, where they are found at about the usual elevation of four hundred feet. Starting from that river in the direction of the Alleghany Mountains, along any of the tributary streams which flow through that part of the country, an exact counterpart to this formation will be found, for the twenty, thirty, or forty miles immediately east of the Alleghany. Not alone in the oil regions of Pennsylvania will this observation be found to apply. The same physical fea- tures are noticeable in "Western New -York, West- Virginia, Eastern and Southern Ohio and Indiana, and Northern Kentucky — in fact, throughout the entire prairie States, along both sides of the Mississippi and the Missouri. Whatever may have been the cause, it is evident that agencies essentially alike have been at work in producing the effects visible to-day. The observant visitor will notice, further, that all this is accompanied by hardly a perceptible inclination or " dip " of the rocks, which, as high up and as far down as he can trace them, are disposed in beautiful horizontal lines, gray, yellow, or brown sandstones alternating with blue, red, or brown shales, in regular and frequent succession. At no point will he detect " faults " or dislocations in the arrangement of these, whether on the surface or beneath, nor will he find the inclination at any point exceeding five degrees. If he has read or observed carefully the structure of mountains elsewhere, he will remember that the rocks are tilted up at various angles with the horizon, in some cases almost ninety degrees ; while at every few paces he can discern marks of disturbance in their situa tion with respect to each other. He will begin, perhaps, to reason within himself how very improbable it must be 12 Physical Features, etc, that those heights could have been individually upheaved, inasmuch as thej evince no signs of such action, having no inclination save that south-eastern or south-western dip common to all the formations from Lake Ontario to Ken- tucky and Tennessee. If he climb the heights, the mystery at first may increase ; for while toward the principal streams the bluffs are usu- ally abrupt, precipitous, pyramidal, or ridgy ; on looking in the opposite direction, he will observe the same table- lands; with gentle elevations formed of drift here and there, such as he encountered between Corry and Titus- ville. *Ke can hardly fail to suspect the truth, that the river-beds, with all their tributaries and the bottoms of ravines, have been, in the course of ages, scooped out of very slight original depressions by the action of water, which has dug out these vast channels to their present depth, and is still engaged in deepening and widening them. This is the view taken by all geologists of eminence, who have examined that portion of the State. Professor Vm. D. Eogers, in his admirable Geological Report, says : " The Alleghany flows through a deep and narrow trench, excavated in the north-west plateau, and within the coal- basin of the State. ... It enters the north-western margin of the coal-basin at Warren." . Eeferring to the remarkably irregular course of that river and the Ohio through Pennsylvania, he further observes : " It is evident that while the main discharge of the eroding wave was south-westward, one large influx of eroding waters swept north-westward from the Apalachian Mountains, and an- other south-eastward from the region of the lakes." The expression "eroding wave" must not, however, be understood to imply that, by a single deluge, whether Physical Features, etc. 13 lasting a day or a twelvemonth, the troughs in which those rivers now run could have been hollowed out. JSTo sin- gle accumulation of waters, collected on the Apalachian Mountains or in the lake basin, would be sufficient to ex- cavate those valleys to the depth of a single inch, much less hundreds of feet. The joint action of time and water was necessary to "write those wrinkles on the brow" of that Piedmont section ; and of the former it would be silly to assign less than myriads of our years. It is true that in an earlier stage the denuding process would go on more rapidly, inasmuch as the mouth of the Mississippi was sev- eral hundreds of miles higher up than at present; while the Ohio and its tributaries, flowing down from the table- lands, would rush forward and abrade their bottoms and banks at a rate which can hardly be understood at present. The hard limestone bed crossing that river at Louisville has prolonged resistance till this day ; but that is also des- tined to wear away, together with the softer rocks above ; the fall or rapid thus, step by step, retreating to Pittsburgh, unless prevented by artificial obstructions. Along the Ohio, as it passes between Pennsylvania, West-Virginia, and Kentucky, on one side, and Ohio and Indiana on the other, it may be observed that while there is substantially the same horizontal stratification, with abrasion of the uplands, the action there has been on a still larger scale than further northward. The causes of this difference are unquestionably to be found in the cir- cumstances of the larger bodies of waters at work lower down, and the beds of rocks forming the upper series along the Ohio consisting of soft shales, which readily dis- solve, and, in places, are so constantly crumbling away as to form little streams of gravel, which become beds of 14 Physical Features, etc. stiff clay or mud upon reaching the bottoms. This is carried off in immense quantities every year, on the melt- ing of the snows and after rains, to the Ohio, the Missis- sippi, and the Gulf, to form fresh additions to the area ot Louisiana, or some other of the Cotton States. For the whole of the sugar region, and at least one half of the cotton, rice, and tobacco zones of the South consist of allu- viums, carried down the eastern and western slopes of the Apalachian and the Eocky Mountain systems, along river- courses, whose beds have been carved tens and hundreds of feet below what was once the general level of the country. In the oil region of Pennsylvania, the uppermost rock in the series (vespertine) is a hard, gray conglomerate, which resists the action of water until undermined bv the dissolution of the soft shales underneath. When this has been brought about, down tumble huge masses of the vespertine, in uniform and often quadrangular blocks, which in turn become the natural protectors of the bases and sides of the bluff, as they had been of its summit. But for these efficient safeguards, it is reasonable to infer that the channels of the Alleghany and some parts of the Ohio would have been as wide as they are found else- where, particularly near the mouth of the latter, where the country for miles on each side has been washed away. This explanation of the origin of those valleys finds abundant confirmation at every bend in the streams, par- ticularly the large ones. In proportion to the sharpness of their curves is the precipitous character of the hills forming their exterior lines ; while on the opposite side, the heights slope gently and gracefully to the water. Al- most the only fields cultivated on the slopes are those Physical Features, etc, 15 headlands around which the river describes a semicircle. On rivers flowing through alluvial countries, as the Poto- mac and the James, the same rule will hold good, as to the areas embraced within their several bends or loops, while the opposite shore will invariably be found lofty and abrupt, the channels keeping well outward, as if de- sirous of increasing their circuit, instead of proceeding " on interior lines " or cut-offs. The phenomenon is thus explained : Like all other bodies, water has a tendency to move in straight lines, as have all the objects which move upon or are carried down by it. At every bend, for ex- ample, the raft is naturally thrown somewhat out of the middle toward the convex side of the river, and the shore there is struck with all the weight and momentum of the current, until it is undermined, when the portions lying highest up fall down and are gradually ground up and their particles carried off, making room for the water to renew its action upon the bluffs. Hence the two processes of lengthening and deepening the stream may be said to go on pari passu. At the principal bends, the river, which at one time flowed on a bed hundreds of feet higher, also described hundreds of yards of a shorter course than it now does. As it deepened in one direction, it struck out- ward in another. During century after century, it thus kept forsaking its old channel and entering one more crooked, rounding the headlands, which were afterward covered with surface soil washed down from above, or made by vegetation on the spot. Every mile or two along the Alleghany, Oil Creek, French Creek, etc., these addi- tional evidences of erosion or denudation become manifest in the formation of the river-beds. The unavoidable in- ferences are, that the depositing of oil, or the constituents 16 Physical Features, etc, composing it, has had no possible relation to existing river systems; that curves, headlands, slopes, table-lands, and bottoms, have no connection, as such, with the finding of petroleum ; the only cause why it was discovered in the last-named being, that that which was stored in the first sand-rock beneath the surface could more readily find its way to it in localities where the deposit had been approach- ed to within short distances. It was only because it could come more easily to the surface in springs along the river- bottoms than on the uplands, that it was originally dis- covered in the former ; but on the latter, the veins in the second or third sand-rocks, which are unable to manifest themselves above ground, are quite as likely to be reached as on the former, the only drawbacks being the greater cost of boring and of pumping the wells afterward. Though rather foreign to the subject discussed in this work, I may add, that the views advanced above explain the cause why " cut-off" canals, as those at Yicksburgh and Dutch Gap, have been unsuccessful. They were dug at points too far down-stream, with their upper extremities some distance below the bluffs, against which the current had struck and been deflected toward the opposite bank. Had General Butler's famous work taken "the line ot beauty," its northern terminus opening against the chan- nel as it struck the bank, there could hardly be a doubt of its success. - » If the length of time required to effect • such changes on the earth's surface be bewildering, our wonder will not subside on inspecting more closely the several strata be- tween the uplands and the lowest point yet reached by the drillers, a range of about fourteen hundred feet. Mar- vels, indeed, never cease in Petrolia, whether we regard it Physical Featwres^ etc. 17 in its natural aspect, or its lately developed condition. If we take our stand on any of the elevations along Oil Creek, French. Creek, the Brokenstraw, or any other trib- utary of the Alleghany, in that quarter, in the masses of gray, brown, or flaggy sandstones, even on the conglom- erates forming the uppermost rock in the series, we shall discover multitudes of the impressions of what once was vegetable or animal life — shells univalve and bivalve, shells of all shapes and sizes, rough and smooth casts of shells. The plants belong largely to a species known among naturalists as fucoids. The organic remains of the shell-fishes indicate that they lived and moved in salt, not fresh, water ; that they died a natural death, the con- sequence of ordinary decay, closing up the doors and windows of their abodes, and quietly dropping to what had been their couch e're it became their cemetery — the ocean-bed — as composedly as Caesar wrapped himself up in his toga, at the base of Pompey's statue. Nothing out of the natural course, no marks of violence are percepti- ble in the circumstances attending their dissolution. ]So deluge appears to have swept them away five hundred or one thousand miles from their native settlements to end their existence on the tops of the mountains. " Once, in the flight of ages past, There lived a crab ; and who was he ? Mortal, where'er thy lot be cast, That crab resembled thee !" This testimony is not confined to one rock or series in the several geological formations of Western Pennsylva- nia. In the numerous layers of sandstone, slate, shale, 18 Physical Features, etc, clay, and soap-stone, evidences of mineral and vegetable life may be found as low down as the beds of the streams, and hundreds of feet beyond. At different points on the railroad between Meadville and Franklin, the rock- cut- tings pass through what once were dense forests of tall trees, the petrified ends of their stems projecting through the soft layers, which are beautifully bent around them, the petrifactions lying in places as closely together as they could have fallen.* Their diameters range from ten inches to three feet. The pores of the bark are still visible, as is its general arrangement on the outside of the quondam trees. The grooves on the exterior, the layers of the inte- rior, with several of the lines radiating from the heart, are still observable. These petrifactions may be found at various depths, from ten to forty feet below what is now the surface of the height, but which was hundreds of feet below it previous to the eroding action of the waters. Shell-marks in abundance are discoverable in the lowest of those rocks, as in all the intermediate strata. Mr. A. Morrell, now of Titusville, an experienced operator and a careful observer, assures me that the sand-pump has brought up, from the depth of four hundred and eighty- five feet, specimens of petrified shell-fish, which are now in his possession, having been obtained in a layer of hard, fossiliferous limestone, termed by most operators, " the third sand-rock." Here we have an aggregate thickness of fully seven hundred and fifty feet, containing probably twenty distinct layers, in most or all of which the re- mains of vegetable and animal life are discovered. Should it turn out that the Niagara limestone underlies that re- * The remains of a mastodon are said to have been discovered in that vicinity, while the railroad was being graded. Physical Features, etc. 19 gion, there is no telling how many hundreds of feet lower such remains may yet be discovered. The groups of sandstones above the river-beds differ somewhat in various localities, one of a coarser texture being replaced by a finer, or the opposite, a pure sand- rock, by one more or less argillaceous, a gray by a yel- low-colored conglomerate, containing pebbles of quartz, sienite, gneiss, etc. In some places they afford excellent materials for building purposes ; in others they are made into grindstones ; superior flag-stones are to be met with everywhere. But such are mere local variations, brought about by the deposition of the several materials of which the layers are composed. In general, it will be found that they belong to rocks which terminate toward the north in the State of ISTew- York, and, in South-western Pennsyvania and West- Virginia, are found hundreds of feet below the surface, the several coal-formations, with the intermediate layers, being there superimposed on these formations. Counting downward, in Yenango county, the following is the succession which most frequently occurs : 1st. Vespertine conglomerate and sandstone. This is a white, gray, or yellowish rock, varying in texture, and alternating with a coarse, silicious conglomerate, or with dark-blue and olive-colored slates. In places it contains beds of dark, carbonaceous shales, with thin seams of coal. Among its organic remains are numerous fragments of coal-plants. In some parts of the State this series is found of immense thickness — as much as twenty-six hun- dred feet, according to Professor Kogers, near the Susque- hanna Eiver. In Yenango county I have not observed it more than one one hundred feet deep, and seldom more than fifty. " This group has a wide distribution in Penn- 20 Physical Features, etc. sylvania, encircling as with a sort of girdle, all the coal- fields, both anthracite and bituminous. ... It undergoes gradual but important changes of type, growing thinner, and assuming a finer and finer texture in its materials, as it spreads westward. Its orographic position is on the ridges and external escarpments of the table-lands, which enclose or support the coal-fields ; but, except in the north-western district, it does not immediately adjoin the conglomerates and sandstones of the coal-measures. . . In this north-west belt, and along the north side of the State, it is a somewhat argillaceous, micaceous sandstone. . . An absence of fossils, and a close assimilation of the ves- pertine and umbral series render it difficult to define their common boundary. . . Around Warren, this group of rocks, reposing directly on the vergent series, and over- laid by the serai white sandstone, consists of four mem- bers — the lowest a group of thin-bedded sandstones and olive-gray shales, the sandstone containing a perpendicu- lar, bifurcating, stem-like fossil. The second is a massive quartzose conglomerate of smooth, ovoid pebbles, about ten feet thick. The third is a thick mass of olive-gray shale and thin-bedded sandstones, about one hundred and seventy -five feet. The fourth, or uppermost, is a fossilif- erous gray sandstone, from ten to fifteen feet. . . The ves- pertine conglomerate caps the hills north-west of the Al- leghany Eiver. It is often mistaken for the serai conglom- erate and sandstone of the coal measures." (Kog-eks.) 2d. The vergent series. This consists of a rather fine- grained gray sandstone, the layers parted by thin alter- nating bands of shale. According to the authority just quoted, it abounds with remains of marine vegetation. In Huntington county it attains a thickness of seventeen Physical Features, etc. 21 hundred feet. In Yenango county it comes down to the river bottoms, a distance of nearly three hundred feet be- low the vespertine rocks ; how far beneath the valleys is unknown. Toward the west this series has a wide exten- sion, spreading out in Ohio, in Kentucky, and even Mid- dle Tennessee, as well as stretching through West-Yir- ginia and East-Tennessee. Some geologists have classi- fied this series as follows, counting downward : Slate and flaggy sandstone. Two layers of hard, silicious sandstone. Beds of thin, pebbly rock. In places, a stratum of yel- low sandstone. Several beds of gray sandstone, of more or less thickness. Two or three thin layers of sandstone, with shells. Beds of shale, usually very dark, alternate between each of the above-mentioned layers. This second series comprises what are known in New- York as the Chemung and the Portage groups. They belong to the class denominated palceozoic rocks, because containing the most ancient remains of animal and vege- table life yet discovered, stretching all the way between the gneissic formations beneath, and the lowest of the coal-deposits above. Sometimes they are denominated, " fossiliferous," "sedimentary," or "secondary" rocks. "In Pennsylvania," says Kogers, "this class have been deposited during all the four earliest periods of the great European divisions, namely, the cambrian, the silurian, the devonian, and the carboniferous. No traces of the fifth or permian group have yet been discovered in North- America. . . . The prolonged succession of sedi- mentary action ceased with the close of the cambrian system, being terminated by the upheaval of the ocean, in whose broad bed, and around whose margin these depo- sits had been collected." The aggregate thickness of all 22 Physical Features, etc. the rocks belonging to this class, measured at their great- est depths, is not less than thirty-five thousand feet. As mention has been made of the coal-beds found in that vicinity, and as the coal and petroleum formations are generally believed to be intimately related to each other, both being largely carbonaceous, it may be proper to re- mark here, that the oil region is bounded by the coal- fields, on the south and the east. On both sides of the Alleghany, near Franklin, coal crops out, in a thin bed, and of a rather poor quality, along the summits of the hill, from two hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty feet above water. Farther down the river it occurs at a lower elevation, until on reaching Pittsburgh the deepest beds are found below the water-courses. In some localities near Franklin, the coal- vein appears to have filled a cup-like depression once existing on the surface where it was formed, the bed now dipping downward, and afterward rising to its former level. In that neigh- borhood the coal-bed may be traced as a dark, even line, extending along the highest eminences, while at the foot of the bluffs operations at boring have been going on. Toward the east the coal-fields are more distant ; but their margin in that direction has not been clearly traced and defined. Owing to the absence of large streams and broad bottoms, operations at searching for petroleum have also been greatly restricted east of the Alleghany. The near- est practicable point at which coal can be reached is on the line of the Philadelphia and Erie Eailroad, above Warren. As far as I am aware, no actual test has yet been made, or if made, none has succeeded, in boring for oil through the coal-measures. The experiment is one that ought to Physical Features, etc. 23 be instituted, its results haying something to do with ver- ifying or disproving the theory as to the genesis of petro- leum commonly entertained. By some it is stoutly maia- tained that the one is never found immediately above or below the other ; hence, that it is idle to expect oil on coal-lands. Others assert that they have, in West- Vir- ginia, passed through the coal, and found oil beneath. It devolves upon the owners of coal-lands to prove the con- tiguous existence of the two, or else be satisfied with lower prices than they are now demanding. At all events, the two formations in Pennsylvania are geologically separated by great distances. Between the coal-beds and the first sand-rock where oil appears, at least four hundred feet intervene, and at least eight hun- dred feet between the coal and the third sand-rock, from which the largest yield has been derived. As to the pos- sibility of the one being supplied from the other, some fur- ther remarks are offered elsewhere. Descending to the formations helow the river-bottoms, as traversed by the drill, and brought up (as mud) by the sand-pump, it becomes necessary to take the " records" of wells as kept by operators of more or less acquaintance with the subject. Mr. Morrell gives the following as the series found on the Watson flats below Titus ville, in sink- ing five hundred feet : First. Schist rock, with mica and a little hornblende. This is what the drillers usually term " the first sand." Second. A very soft, silicious rock, resembling soap- stone. Feels very soft and greasy at first, and has a nearly white color ; but hardens, and becomes bluish after a time. Third. A hard transition rock. Fourth. Fossiliferous limestone, containing fissures 01 24 Physical Features, etc. caverns in which oil is found. This is usually termed "■ the second sand-rock ;" and as it contains sand in various proportions, it will be so termed in this work. Mr. E. B. Gamble, also of Titusville, who is superin- tendent of the Pennyslvania Oil Creek Company's Deep well, (now fully twelve hundred feet below the level of the Watson flats, and still in progress,) furnishes the follow- ing as the results of his observations : The first sand-rock commonly occurs there between one hundred and fifty and one hundred and sixty feet down, and is about sixteen feet thick. Drillers then bore through different layers of slate and soap-stone, (not the common variety of the latter,) in which the tools often stick fast. Between four hundred and eighty and four hundred and ninety feet, they strike a pebbly bed, often mixed with slate, and usually five feet thick. What is known as the second rock occurs about four hundred feet down, and is between fifty and sixty feet thick. In this bed, oil is most commonly obtained in that locality. In this particular instance, the company decided to keep on boring for the purpose of making an experiment, with the annexed re- sult : At twelve hundred and fifteen feet, they had not reached the third sandstone ; and the general belief among practical men on the flats is, that none such is to be found there. But they passed through shale, slates, soap-stone, etc., as above the second layer. This well is, at least, four hundred feet deeper than any other whose record I was able to examine. In passing, it may be mentioned here that a company has been formed at Petroleum -Centre, with Mr. D. W. Davies as superintendent, to sink a shaft, about seven by seventeen feet, as far down as practicable. The organiza- Physical Features, etc. 25 tion is known as the Shaft Company. The experiment cannot fail to be highly valuable to the cause of science, and may repay all outlays upon it one hundred times over. Every company and land-owner in Petrolia ought to en- courage the attempt. The evolution of gas will constitute the chief difficulty to the progress of this undertaking ; and may prevent the introduction of artificial lights alto- gether. As, however, it is much lighter than common atmospheric air, it is believed the latter can be forced down in quantities sufficient to render the operations innocuous. Much interest will attach to the work as it progresses. Mr. T. S. Truaire, a refiner and a gentleman of veracity and much intelligence, furnishes the subjoined statement from his record of a well, sunk under his direction, one mile above Oil City : " At the depth of two hundred and five feet, we struck the first sandstone, and went through it at two hundred and forty-three feet. From that point to three hundred and fifty feet, we found hard-pan clay, beyond which we struck the second rock, thirty feet thick. From three hundred and eighty to four hundred and fifty feet, we found another shale ; and on passing this, we en- tered the third sand-rock, of forty feet in thickness. In this we struck a seventy -barrel well." The points selected above are nearly eighteen miles apart, or fifteen in a direct line, the difference in elevation between their surfaces being nearly two hundred and fifty feet. It is reasonable to conclude that, while the under- lying rocks are nearly horizontal, the layers in some places disappear altogether, and in others are modified, both as to quality and thickness. . Several persons report that on the Watson flats, immediately above the oil-vein, they find a hard, flinty rock, a few feet in thickness, black 2 26 Physical Features, etc. and smooth, like that used for whetstones. Others report rinding a mud- vein, from three to five feet thick, in the very heart of the second rock. It is supposed that this has settled as a sediment, where oil and gas formerly ex- isted, after exhaustion of the former. Whatever the or- igin, it is productive of much trouble and loss in boring. Mr. Fox, an experienced manager and a close observer, showed me numerous specimens of the inferior rocks. As compared with the first, a fragment of the third sand-rock at Petroleum Centre is harder, finer, and better polished, somewhat resembling a whetstone ; its color is gray. Among the sand brought up from the bottom were found mixed black particles, as if of a carbonaceous origin. The specimen also had a distinct odor of the gas which comes off petroleum. At Tideoute, on the Upper Alleghany, in sinking one hundred and fifty feet, they passed through layers of earth or gravel, slate, soap-stone, slate, gray sand, and white sand, finding oil in a gray, pebbly conglomerate. There and at West-Hickory, crevices were found, into which tools often dropped and got fast. On the Lower Alleghany, it is not customary to sink more than four hundred 'and fifty or five hundred feet, and the observations are of less value. One superintendent reports that below the second sand- stone, they usually get shale and soap-stone ; sometimes beds of hard shales ; sometimes a third sand- rock is pierc- ed, but not often. Another states that, on or near West- Sandy Creek, at the depth of five hundred and eighteen feet, they went through a substance of a bright, silvery appearance, which he believes to be a metal. It was very hard, and the bed about nine inches thick. The gentle- man was evidently trustworthy, but he could only describe Physical Features, etc. 27 the substance from memory, having bored through it some years ago. The wells put down five or six years since, in several cases got petroleum in the first sand-rock, their owners haviog been led to select such spots from " surface indica- tions ;" that is, petroleum oozing out of the ground. The famous Drake well struck oil at the depth of only sixty- nine and a half feet. In only some instances did men think of going down to the second rock, and in none to the third till long afterward. The article found in the uppermost layer is darker, thicker, heavier, and more valuable than that coming from the next, as the latter is apt to be supe- rior to that obtained from the third rock. On French Creek, the splendid lubricating oil is got in the second se- ries exclusively ; the only instance in which I could hear of oil having been got lower down, showing that it was of the illuminating kind. But experiments, sufficient to prove the existence of a general law on this subject, have not yet been made ; and of all regions, Petrolia is the last where a general principle can safely be inferred from particular facts, Nature having apparently taken a delight in setting all her own regulations at defiance. The only law which can be recognized with certainty is that of lawlessness. If people wonder that sagacious and truthful men should sometimes vary so widely in their descriptions of the same object or phenomenon, let it be borne in mind that few ot the superintendents, and none of the drillers, however ex- perienced as operators, have received a regular scientific training ; while professional savans have kept far too clear of the oil regions, as if they dreaded to come in contact with petroleum, except when their opinions were solicited and paid for by interested parties. This is not all the dif- 28 Physical Features, etc. Acuity, however. The evidences of what the nether for- mations consist of, and what they contain, come up in the sand-pump, before passing into which the matter is ground fine, and being mixed with the water forms a paste or fluid. Seldom is a pebble bigger than a pea brought up by the ordinary process. Only when the workmen introduce some extraordinary agent like the torpedo, can they cal- culate upon getting fragments of the rocks to furnish data for observation and reflection. ]?or the same reason, the relation of petroleum to salt water is difficult to be gathered. The two liquids have been found, in almost immediate contact very generally, in first, second, and third sandstones ; although it is now rare to get either in considerable quantities from the first. But the sand-pump coming up with a load of dissolved and mixed sand and clay, brings with these and the brine more or lessrfresh water which falls down from above, so that the precise spot where a salt-spring may be reached can not be ascertained. All that we know with tolerable certainty is that, on passing the second layer of sandstone, little by little the water begins to taste brackish ; but not until the well has been " seed-bagged" and pumped for a time does it reach the full degree of strength, which is often equal to that of the strongest sea water. In some instances, this was struck, on Oil Creek, at depths of only seventy or one hundred feet. At Tideoute and West- Hickory, the salt was reached, in connection with the oil, at various depths between one hundred and ten and one hundred and fifty feet, the rule there being — no brine, no petroleum. But why this close neighborhood on the part of liquids which do not mix mechanically, have no known chemical Physical Features ', etc. 29 relationship, and are never found associated in either the animal or vegetable world, except as traces ? It is a com- mon proverb that oil and water cannot be made to mingle, yet Nature, in her subterranean laboratories, seems to de- light in setting this rule at defiance ; for while the brine usually manifests itself first in order, when the pump is applied, it never entirely forsakes the oil, the two clinging to each other like brother and sister. They are found to- gether in West- Virginia, Ohio, and Kentucky, as well as in Western Pennsylvania. And whence the brine ? it may be asked. This ques- tion admits of a ready answer, and but one, by means of the fossiliferous remains and impressions of marine plants found in the sandstone, all going to show that every suc- cessive layer of it and of clay shales was formed in a shallow sea, which kept sinking gradually, as the coasts of certain countries are known to be doing at present. All this must have been going on through an untold succes- sion of ages before the upheaval of that portion of the American continent began, or any river had begun to thread its devious course along the slight depressions. Added to the above is the following remarkable fact, stat- ed by Mr. Ludovici, of the Humboldt Kefinery, near Plund- er, a most intelligent gentleman : From one of their wells, about seven hundred feet deep, was brought up a fibrous, yellowish substance, closely resembling salt meadow-grass, and not quite decomposed. The inference is clear that the sand-beds and clay deposits, the latter of which turned to shales, cracking and cleaving, as we may behold them, under the influence of heat, any day, were, in their "half- baked" condition, completely saturated with the salt water, which remained in their seams and crevices long after the 30 Physical Features, etc. great valley had been upheaved from the ocean-bed to its present elevation. While on this subject, I may relate a curious experi- ment made by Mr. Morrell, who placed a quantity of pe- troleum and salt water in an atmospheric pump, and then exhausted the air, having previously shaken the two to- gether, so as to mix them as perfectly as possible. The result was, that the water settled to the top and ftottom, the oil remaining in the middle of the vessel. This is the more worthy of notice since it conforms to common experience in the oil regions, brine coming first up in the pumps, next petroleum, accompanied by gas, and lastly salt water. Why this disposition in the tube ? Who can explain the cause of capillary attraction ? On the geographical and geological relations of coal and p etroleum, I have already made some general observations. Even with the imperfect information within reach, the subject has a practical bearing. It is very certain that companies- issuing prospectuses which intimate that hecause coal exists on their property, therefore oil will likely be reached, reckon without their hosts. The intervening space between the two (from four hundred to one thousand feet) is so great, and contains such an immense variety of rocks, that I regard the passage of petroleum downward by filtration as an impossibility. If the heavy sea water, for example, existing in the second series, has in thousands of years been unable to work its passage downward to the ocean-level, is it to be supposed that beds so completely filled with it would admit the entrance of a lighter liquid from above ? Fresh water, we know, is scarcely ever found more than two hundred feet beneath the surface of the riv- ers, and never at the depth of four hundred feet, except Physical Features, etc 31 by passing down the oil-wells. Could petroleum, still lighter, have made its way through slate, hard-pan, soap- stone, and all the other sedimentary formations, passing through a band of stone so hard and unfractured that it would seem to have been thrown like a lid upon the pre- cious deposit, to keep it down ? If it now bursts its bar- riers with such violence upward, would it enter them by the mere force of gravity ? These are not the only difficulties in the way of that ready theory which traces the creation of oil to the distillation of coal. A still greater difficulty is to account for the existence, in such quantities, of in- flammable gas. Did the carbonetted hydrogen — so many times lighter than atmospheric air — also work its passage downward ? If it be replied that, in common with petro- leum, it was extracted from the coal at such low depths by subterranean heat, applied subsequently to its depo- sition, I ask again : Would not this heat have decomposed the water, which would have parted with its oxygen, and thus have converted the gas into carbonic acid, which is poisonous and not inflammable, instead of carbonetted hy- drogen, which has the very opposite qualities ? No theory is hedged in with difficulties so numerous and insuperable as that which traces to the coal-fields the existence of rock-oil. But if the manifest truth be admitted, that previous to the formation of our upper sedimentary rocks, an atmos- phere, containing its present constituents of oxygen, nitro- gen, carbon, and hydrogen, only in different proportions, perhaps, must have enveloped our globe, it is easy to see that " from the beginning," how far back soever we fix that date, hydro-carbons of various kinds must have been formed, whenever and wherever the temperature of the 32 Physical Features, etc, earth, s surface permitted this. Whether coming into ex- istence, as bogs, fens, forests, and the like, to be converted by pressure into coal-fields and thence distilled into petro- leum and gas, or whether manufactured directly by heat, which might be generated by mere pressure or force as the equivalent of heat, in the laboratories of nature, we know nothing. One thing, however, seems probable, if not certain, namely, that as coal takes us back geolo- gically to a carbonaceous era anterior to existing bog or forest, so petroleum discloses to us another such era equally anterior to coal, at least anterior to the coal found on this continent. And witrrthis hasty attempt at solving what may, reasonably enough, be regarded as beyond the reach of an ordinary observer, I dismiss this part of the subject. At the same time, I would most earnestly invoke men of science everywhere to give it a more thorough exam- ination than it has hitherto received ; to come to the oil regions, and remain there for weeks and months, collect- ing pebbles, fossils, fragments, and all other materials ob- tainable from the nether world. Let them spend their time and labor as enthusiastic explorers of truth, not with a view to lend their names to this or that Mammoth Gas Bubble Company, for a consideration in dollars or dollars' worth, thus fastening a stigma upon science, as indolent and behind the age, while it panders to deception, if not by misrepresenting some facts, at least by a studied con- cealment of others. CHAPTER II. APPEAKANCE OF THE COUNTRY — THE CLIMATE — CHAKAC- TEEISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. The oil region of Pennsylvania *is entered at four principal points, which, may be termed the natural gate- ways of the country. Two of these the Alleghany River affords, it being navigable on the south from Pittsburgh, and (occasionally) on the north from Irvine, on the line of the Philadelphia and Erie Railroad. Rafts and flat-bot- tomed boats, indeed, come down from much higher points during spring and autumn. While a considerable propor- tion of the imports come by way of Pittsburgh, and large quantities of petroleum, both crude and refined, are daily sent down to that city, the great volume of travel to and fro passes by railroad. The Atlantic and Great Western Railway proceeds in a direction nearly parallel with Oil Creek, and at the average distance of about thirty miles, to the westward. The points affording communication with this trunk-line are Corry and Meadville, about forty miles apart, the former also touching the Philadelphia and Erie, now operated, under a lease, by the Pennsylvania Central Company. Taking the cars of the Oil Creek Railroad at Corry, the passenger is apt to find himself inconveniently packed by the way, and may not, indeed, be able to procure admis- 2* 34: Appearance of the Country •, etc. sion further than the platform, feeling only too happy that he is not among the disappointed company who have been left behind. After traversing an upward grade for a few miles and the table-land beyond, he finds the road entering a branch of the famous Oil Creek. Passing near Oil Lake and the village stations of Centre ville and Hyde- town, he at length reaches Titusville, distant twenty- eight miles, the two hours' ride costing only one dollar. At the depot he may bid adieu to cheap fares, good beds, clean sheets, and other characteristics of civilization "in the States." From Titusville the railroad proceeds down the valley to Shaffer's Station, nearly eight miles ; but most of the passengers stop off at the former, it being the business centre of the upper end of Petrolia, and the point from which future operations of any kind can best be carried on. The other gateway is Meadville, from which a branch railroad has been built by the Atlantic and Great Western Company to Franklin, twenty-seven miles, and thence to Oil City, seven miles farther, the latter section under the charter of the Oil Creek Eailroad Company. Between Meadville and Franklin this route follows the eastern bank of French Creek ; and from Franklin to Oil City, the south-western bank of the Alleghany. Around Mead- ville, which is very pleasantly situated among the hills, and nearly all the- way to Franklin, the country has been cleared and is under cultivation. The bottom-lands, though here and there washed away by recent floods, are as inviting in quality as the prices of farm produce are tempting in amount. The uplands have also been much more generally reclaimed along this line than on that be- tween Corry and Titusville. The line of the Philadelphia Appearance of the Cowmtry, etc. 35 and Erie, from Corrj to Irvine, may be regarded as a medium between the other two. In general, it may be observed that the wide distribution of boulder-stones over the surface, and the difficulty of ascent and descent of the uplands, constitute more formidable impediments to farm- ing than the cold or tenacious nature of the soil. On some of the uplands or slopes, thirty bushels of wheat, and , more than twice that quantity of corn to the acre, have been raised. At either Titusville or Oil City the stranger finds him- self in a new world, this impression being no way lessened by hearing others speak about the latest news from " the States," or returning to them. This change addresses it- self to every sense. The objects which he is too apt to touch, in spite of all precautions, have a greasy, clammy feel His nostrils are assailed by gaseous odors, such as they probably never before inhaled in the open air. Into his ears is continually poured a stream of speceh, in a dia- lect essentially different from that taught in Webster or Worcester. Such phrases as " surface indications," " dry territory," " developed territory," " oil-smeller," with the names of a dozen implements unknown to the outside world, all uttered with earnestness and volubility, at once set his half-bewildered wits at work in quest of their meaning. He tastes petroleum and salt water, of course, to satisfy his curiosity or acquire information of their qualities. Then he sees — what does he not see, in the line of novelties ? — tall derricks and huge tanks standing on side-walks or in gardens ; engines running and walking- beams moving sedately up and down in the midst of what remain of the original forests ; drilling apparatus at work ; immense flat-boats or rafts floating down-stream with the 36 Appearance of the Country, etc. current, or drawn upward by three or four horses abreast, plunging along the bed of the creek or river. If the wea- ther be cold, these poor creatures will be seen not only straining their muscles with desperation, as the inhuman driver applies the lash, but with their manes, tails, and sides thickly incrusted with ice, formed from the water splashed up, as they stumbled in the river-bed. If it be later in the season, he may behold a mile in length of boats rushing violently down-stream, that being the day when an artificial freshet has been made for this purpose by the opening of dams in the upper part of Oil Creek. As preliminary to all these novel spectacles, he has been treated to the filthy streets and wooden side- walks of Cor- ry, Titusville, and Oil City, the last bearing away the palm in point of disarray and disgust. He has also been made acquainted with the luxuries of hotel life, especially in regard to sleeping accommodations, with from four to ten straw beds in a single room, each tenanted by one, two, or three sufferers, according to the pressure exercised by the travelling public. On the parlor floors he has learned to become reconciled to an inch deep of mud or dust, while leathery beefsteaks are no longer regarded with contempt ; for with its many disadvantages, Petrolia has the one transcendent merit of creating a vigorous appetite. "With very little loss of time he takes to exploring the valley. I shall assume that he begins with the region back of Titusville, that Pennsylvania Venice, arising out of the mud, which in April is still sufficiently deep and liquid to float a whole navy of gondolas. If the side- walks are a little uneven, let them not be despised ; for the time is coming when a single plank will elicit an out- burst of welcome, as a god-send. Then there is Oil City, Appearance of the Country, etc. 37 at the mere mention of which, Titusville is transformed into a capital with all the charms of Dublin or the neat- ness of Philadelphia. In the heart of that borough he finds large hotels or caravansaries by the half-dozen, and as many more in course of erection. On every hand new houses are rising under the incessant blows of the carpen- ter's hammer. At morning, mid-day, and evening, the screams of steam-whistles at the various machine-shops, foundries, and refineries, are painfully long and loud. In the various houses or sheds thrown up on the principal streets, where lots sell at New- York City prices, he finds whole platoons of land agents, lawyers, speculators, the agents of merchants and manufacturers, whose wares are likely to be in demand there, " drummers " of all kinds and from all parts of the country. He can hardly turn a corner without being " drilled to the third rock " by a pair of keen, inquisitive eyes, followed by the inquiry : "Do you wish some first-rate oil territory, sir?" "I would like to sell you a fourth interest in a fifty-barrel well." " Can't I furnish you with Jones's new patent blower or an Excelsior steam-engine ?" In the midst of such interrogatories, it is gratifying to learn that Mr. Smith yesterday " struck " a two hundred barrel well on Cherry Eun, and that Mr. Brown's has doubled its yield since he had it "reamed" out and that new "blower" put in. Determined, however, on piercing the heart of the coun- try, he hires a horse at ten dollars per day, and sets out on his pilgrimage down the valley. Immediately below Titusville, and above the confluence of the east and west branches of Oil Creek, he enters the celebrated Watson flats, a short distance beyond which he observes the der- 38 Appearance of ike Country, etc. rick of Colonel Drake, erected in 1859, the first work of the kind in Petrolia. More than one hundred others, new and old, may now be counted within one mile of Titus- ville, especially near the point of confluence. Every thing betokens disorder, disarray, indifference to all except the one grand object of pursuit. There are no roads, no fences, and scarcely laws or regulations, except a few laid down in the leases or imposed by common consent. In a place where seemingly meum and tuum are confounded ; where every man appears to act for the day, regardless of the morrow, one might reasonably suppose that violence and even bloodshed would be matters of almost hourly occur- rence. So far from this, however, I am happy to say that there is probably no place in Christendom where human life is safer, and less danger to " portable property " exists, except from freshets and extravagant charges, than in and around Titusville. Proceeding down the creek, where one's best road, off the railway, is the uneven bottom of that impetuous stream, the valley is found to grow quite narrow — barely one hundred yards from bluff to bluff. On the heights, overhanging the railroad and creek, where heavy forests of pine, hemlock, or white oak once grew, little now, save brushwood and stumps with long, horizontal lines of shale and sandstone behind are visible, the scene being here and there diversified by a small unpainted cabin, or by the ubiquitous derrick. Between the precipitous heights the creek describes numerous sinuosities, always apparently butting its head with full force against the steepest banks ; in reality having made them such by dashing with such impetuosity against the rocks underneath. Here, as well as higher up, one meets tall gentlemen, Appearance of the Country, etc. 39 encased in tall, shining boots, or what were such in their primitive state ; wearing tall, black coats, tall, black beards, and carrying tall, black valises. They are adventurers, in search of lands, appointments, interests in wells, or in- dividuals, whom they can sell and deliver equally with their property. For the five or six miles immediately below the Watson flats, little boring has been done — ten or a dozen wells to the mile or so. The section is pronounced " dry terri- tory." At Miller's farm or station symptoms of more activity are manifest ; and at Shaffer's, where the railroad terminates, a cluster of hotels and another of shipping- offices have sprung up. To that point boats, filled with petroleum, in bulk or in barrels, are dragged up-stream at nearly all seasons. The arrangements for unloading this from the boats, hoisting it (by means of horse-power) to the top of a high trestle-work, and thence conveying it to the extensive sheds which adjoin the railroad, are exten- sive and well adapted to the purpose. The only draw- back to the whole is the cruel treatment of the horse, whose lot has been made worse by the great discovery, though its benefits have been felt by whales disporting themselves in the Arctic seas. One's first impulse is to curse the day petroleum was first discovered, and to knock down the barbarians by whom the task of applying the lash has been voluntarily accepted. Beyond Shaffer's the nearly level bottoms begin to widen, affording the creek more abundant space for its frequent gyrations. Each of the half-moon flats beyond has a distinct name, usually given it after that of the for- mer proprietor, in connection with the farm lying imme- diately above and behind. Every flat has also its sys- 40 Appearance of the Country, etc. tern of derricks, and, in general, characteristics of its own distinguishing it from those above and below. In passing downward the derricks will be seen to hug the bluffs more closely, and even to climb them, in places, to the height of one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet. For about midway between Titusville and Oil City the stranger has entered the great heart of the 'oil region, where the Sher- man, the Noble, the Empire, the Craft, the Wild-cat, the Jersey, the Coquette, and other famous wells were former- ly, or are now, wont to discharge (by flowing) their hun- dreds of barrels per day. Each of these famous producers has its own street or block of black, dirty, greasy tanks, from two or three to ten or twelve in number, with an aggregate capacity of between five thousand and fifteen thousand barrels. Most of these are roofed over and lo- cated close to the creek, with a view to easy loading in the barges. From their bottoms exude streams of the dark green liquid, which crawls along by slimy paths to the creek, covering its entire surface with a film of petro- leum. Many barrels of it thus escape every day, to the deep regret of the looker-on, who wishes he had the facil- ities, with the right to use them, for preventing such a waste. "With a clear sky overhead, the different hues formed by this " oil cast upon the troubled waters " are exceed- ingly delicate and beautiful, and can hardly have failed to suggest the extraction of certain rich and rare colors, as analine, from this wonderful product. On every farm henceforward is a village, bearing the farm, name, or the affix " ville " as a substitute. The names and the settlements are, indeed, about equally out- landish. If the one be prosy, the other is slatternly, in muddy weather indescribably so. Thus, within the space Appearance 'of the Country, etc. 41 of ten miles, we have the names of " Funkville," " Mc- Clintockville," " Tarr Farm," " Kouseville," " Ehind Farm," as well as other places of less repute. " Petroleum Centre," as it has a decent name, has a pretty situation, a good bridge, and is laid out with some degree of regular- ity. But as its site is the prettiest, so the naming of it would seem to have absorbed all the poetry in the valley. The village usually consists of a number of oil companies' offices, about twice as many boarding-houses, perhaps a school-house, where religious services are held occasionally on Sundays, a hotel or two with their wonted accommo- dations, in the shape of sitting-rooms and bed-rooms, for which the modest price of three to four dollars per day is charged. In Kouseville, Plumer, and one or two other points, banks have been established. Post-offices abound, nearly every farm having one ; and the telegraph extends to every nook and corner in the country as fast as a good well is struck. The number of houses in these villages or hamlets ranges from ten to fifty, and the population, exclusive of strangers and pilgrims, from one hundred to eight hundred. The houses are built of weather-boards and strips only, being guiltless of paint on the outside or of lath and plaster within. On some farms the streets are laid out with a fair degree of order, and the more elevated spots are selected ; in others, the law of lawlessness pre- vails, and a goodly number got immersed in the late freshet. As to drainage, fencing, shrubbery, or gardening, these are all in the future tense and conditional mood. Once, and only once, I did notice a discharged soldier en- gaged in planting a little grass-plot in front of his cabin. Probably one half the engineers and laborers sleep in cribs attached to the engine-houses, and some even cook 4:2 Appearance of the Country, etc. their own meals there, in order to escape a charge of seven or eight dollars per week for board and the coarse accom- modations had in the boarding-houses. If there is one cow in that part of Petrolia, she escaped my observation. Even the dog-tribe are far from being numerous. Nearly every mile along the lower part of the valley, a " run " discharges its waters into the creek, running at the bottom of a ravine, more or less deep and wide, ac- cording to the volume of its waters. The principal of these entering from the east are Bull Eun and Cherry Kun, (the latter at Eouseville, three miles above Oil City.) On the west side are Bennehoof, Cherrytree, and Corn- planter Buns. On Cherry Run, however, are more works than on all the other tributaries of the creek ; while in point of productiveness it disputes with Oil Creek the claim of supremacy. At its mouth, and for some miles above, the derricks stand as thickly as the masts of ship- ping in the East River, at New-York. They evidently mean to dispute possession of the uplands with the squat- ter sovereigns. One of the most remarkable phenomena of the valley is the large proportion of idle wells — in some localities at least nine tenths, and in the most active three fourths. The visitor will hear various reasons assigned for this un- expected idleness — reasons which I propose to discuss elsewhere, contenting myself for the present with noticing the fact. The highway is coextensive with the bottom ; and if that be not found sufficiently capacious, the traveller is at full liberty to annex a portion of the bluff or table-land. As the soil is clayey, and as it rains every other day, dur- ing the spring months, while literally no attention is paid Appearance of the Country, etc. 43 to the roads, (so-called,) the reader will please fill up the picture, as to travelling facilities, to suit his own taste. If to the sticky paste be added wriggling rivulets of water, coated with grease, settling in numerous basins or pud- dles, across which one has to work his passage, by leaping from, prostrated tree-stem to stump, plank, rail, iron tube, stone, old boiler, walking-beam, or whatever other object he can reach — these operations being accompanied by an occasional downfall, and a frequent splash of mud and oil up to the hat — perhaps the indescribable enjoyments of a foot-march through Petrolia may be conceived. But I had almost forgotten that the stranger who has been thus far conducted through the country is supposed to be a gay cavalier, not " doing " the region on his own nether extremities. As if to afford frequent opportunities to wash and be clean, the creek cuts across the highway, that is, the val- ley, every half-mile or mile. The horse can ford it with- out trouble ; but for the humble pedestrian there is no means of crossing save by a ferry-boat or rope-ferry, where the toll is five cents for each trip. These " institu- tions " are chartered under authority of the State, to whose treasury each pays an annual tax. of ten dollars. For this paltry sum he secures a monopoly for a long distance above and below ; and as it sometimes happens that, af- ter a good well has been struck, a new ferry must be started, it becomes necessary to pay Charon ~No. 1 a " roy- alty " of so much on every passenger transported a dis- tance of seventy-five feet 1" I fully agree with the obser- vation made by one of these boatmen, that he would not exchange his skiff for a good oil-well. Added to the natural disorder prevalent in the oil re- 44 Appearance of the Country, etc. gions, are the wrecks produced by the great freshet of this spring, the most destructive that ever visited any portion of the Northern States. It not only swept down the river numbers of houses and immense quantities of pe- troleum, but deposited all along the low lands fragments of boats, dwellings, engine-houses, furniture, fuel; over- turning derricks, carrying off wooden platforms laden with engines, and hurling the whole with resistless force against bridges, which shared the common fate. The side-walks in Oil City have been left wherever the capri- cious element chose to deposit them ; a huge flat-bottomed boat was dropped in the principal street ; dwellings and factories were lifted from their foundations, and moved hither or thitheri— perhaps to encroach on the thorough- fares, perhaps to stand at a different angle to them. With- in half a mile of the built-up portion of that u city," boasting of its burgess and council, the carcasses of no fewer than twenty horses, which had perished during the flood, were suffered to lie unburied nearly a full month, and may be perfuming the atmosphere to this very day I Oil refineries, belching forth clouds of black smoke, or (as is quite common) lying idle, form one of the features in the landscape of those valleys. They are for the most part small establishments, each with a capacity not ex- ceeding three hundred barrels per week. The mode of treating petroleum, so as to prepare it for use, is explained in another chapter. The stranger will quickly master the difference between wells in progress and those completed. The engine- houses and derricks of the one are comparatively clean and white ; after striking oil, however, they get coated with the universal pigment, and turn as black as the Appearance of the Country ', etc. 45 smoke rolling out of the chimneys. Men's clothes aie, of course, in keeping with the general scene. "Water- proofs are made without cost in Petrolia. The various tributaries of Oil Creek, and the Upper Alleghany, are too small and rapid to afford facilities for boating ; hence, the oil has to be conveyed by wagons, which are hauled over roads, whose equals exist no- where else. Formed originally by the teamsters to suit their own convenience, they are kept in order only by the debris which is washed down from the heights, and remain floating masses of slush, huge fragments of rock filling more or less of their unfathomable depths. It would appear that the only conceivable way of mending their ways in Petrolia was to apply fresh curses and kicks to the poor horses. Arriving at that perfection of filth and disorder, Oil City, the visitor finds a newly extemporized borough, a mile and a half in length, which hugs the base of the heights west of Oil Creek; then crosses it, and pushes up the face of the eastern slope for one hundred and fifty feet, where at length it begins to expand itself, as if con- scious that it can do so safely for the first time. The view presented from " Cottage Hill " is certainly picturesque, and the contrast presented between that charming spot and the slovenly avenue beneath cannot fail to make a profound impression. The noble Alleghany, three hun- dred yards wide, sweeping along the bases of the hills, and receiving, not only its tributes of numerous creeks, with their many-colored waters, but scores of barges, steamboats, and other vessels, constitutes a most attractive part of the scene, the effect perhaps heightened by the physical lawlessness of the lower city. In the distance 46 Ajipewrance of the Country r , etc. round-shouldered and pyramidal hills, their angles and terraces standing out sharply, constitute a grand back- ground to the picture. Up and down the Alleghany for about twenty miles; along French and Sugar Creeks for half that distance, as also along the various tributaries of all those waters, with- in the distance stated, the scene is similar to Oil Creek, though mostly in a less marked degree. THE CHIEF TOWNS. The principal centres of population and business in Petrolia are the following : Corry, situated at the point where the Atlantic and Great Western Eailroad intersects the Philadelphia and Erie, and where the Oil Creek line terminates, is a thriv- ing village, containing between three thousand and four thousand inhabitants. Half a dozen years ago it had nei- ther a local habitation nor a name, and scarcely as many log-huts in the heavy forests. Indeed, it is still literally " in the woods," the valuable portions of which have alone disappeared, leaving the stumps and roots standing in the principal thoroughfares. Corry is pleasantly situated, is regularly laid out, and is fast becoming a prominent busi- ness point. The establishment of the Downer oil-refinery there, (the largest in that region,) by some sagacious men from Boston, gave the place a great impetus, which prom- ises to continue for some time. Ordinary sized lots on the principal street sell at from two thousand to three thousand dollars each. In no part of the country are more new houses in progress. Corry contains two banks, four churches, one respectable hotel, public schools, Appearance of the Country, etc. 47 a lecture-room, (in which poor concerts draw better than lectures,) a newspaper-office, from which a weekly inde- pendent journal (The Telegraph) is issued. In its popula- tion the Eastern element predominates. Ttiusville, named after one of the early settlers in that valley, contained about one hundred and fifty inhabitants before the oil excitement ; it now contains probably five thousand, besides a considerable floating element. It has four or five refineries, barrel-factories, machine-shops, and foundries, (the whole employing nearly five hundred men ;) also two banks, the usual assortment of churches, (which appear to well sustained,) a theatre, and a large number of hotels. The only newspaper issued is a week- ly, (The Reporter,) which is independent in politics, and conducted with spirit. The proprietors contemplate the establishment of a daily shortly. The situation of Titus- ville is too level and low to be easily drained ; and in fact the attempt would seem to have been given up. The place is regularly laid out, however, and the outskirts are decidedly attractive. Population orderly, enterprising, and largely on the increase. The derrick is already be- ginning to make inroads on the gardens. If successful in the search after oil, there is no telling to what figure the price of lots will advance. Already they are higher than in Corry. As Oil City has the most disgusting name in all Petro- lia, so every thing else is in keeping therewith. One of its first and best sustained institutions was a race-course, laid out on the summit of the highest hill, " for improving the breed of horses;" while those wretched quadrupeds were left to flounder, lie down, and die on the horrid thoroughfares, termed streets, below. Folly kills itself ; 48 Appearance of the Country, etc. for, except on Cottage Hill, the place has almost ceased to grow. Even with the extension of the railroad thither, it is "a finished town." Population, about five thousand, besides a thousand or two of floating elements. Oil City has two banks, half a dozen hotels, ten oil refineries, four or five churches, (including those in progress,) and a pub- lic school building, nearly completed. Two weekly news- papers, representing the great political parties, are printed there. The creek at Oil City is about sixty yards wide, and is crossed by a trembling structure, termed a bridge, which the authorities permitted a company to erect on the foundations of the one swept away, charging five cents for the privilege of crossing ! The creek divides Oil City into two nearly equally large sections ; though that on its western side is more populous. A suburb is rising on the opposite bank of the Alleghany, which is connected with " the city " by two rope-ferries. The place is altogether a new creation. An interesting fact in connection with it is, that an Indian tribe has recently put in a claim for the ownership of two thirds of its site, which, it is asserted, was granted by the State to " Cornplanter," a noted chief of the Senecas, about thirty years ago. The matter is about to be litigated. Franklin is situated at the mouth of French Creek, seven miles below Oil City, and contains nearly three thousand inhabitants, besides a large ingredient of " drift." Its site is on the whole pleasant, and the streets are spa- cious and regularly laid out. Having been a county-seat before the era of petroleum, its public buildings (court- house, churches, etc.) are more substantial than either stylish or outlandish. New churches and public schools, both spacious and elegant, are among the improvements Appearance of the Country, etc. 49 contemplated at an early day. At different points in the village derricks have arisen ; but many of them are now idle, and withal far from being attractive objects. Frank- lin is situated on the south-west side of French Creek, which is there one hundred yards broad. The lower bridge crossing it was carried away by the flood ; but the magnificent suspension bridge across the Alleghany es- caped. Franklin has two weekly newspapers, which ap- pear to be well supported. The bulk of its population still belong to the old stock of settlers. Excepting a bar- rel-factory, and some small oil refineries, (on the other side of the creek,) the manufactures of the place are of little account. As a distributing point, it ranks next in im- portance to the places already noticed. Franklin boasts of an antiquity of a full century. The point below the confluence of the river and creek was selected by the French for the site of one of their chain of forts connecting their Canadian possessions with Louis- iana ; but of that work not a trace is now visible. In 1754, General Montcalm visited the place, and in his re- port of it took occasion to describe the war-dances and religious worship of the aborigines. Among other mat- ters he refers to their mixing oil, gathered from the neigh- boring creek, with their war-paint ; also to their use of it in sacrifices, kindliDg it with torches, at the sight of which they set up a shout that made the valleys ring. Strange that a whole century should have elapsed before the pale- face set up his shout over the discovery. Meadville is the largest, prettiest, and most cultivated place in the oil regions, having between eight thousand and nine thousand inhabitants. Its situation on a trib- utary of French Creek, surrounded by gently swelling 3 50 Appearance of the Country, etc. and well-cultivated hills, is equally healthy and attractive. Meadville is noted as a seat of learning, having, besides an excellent system of public schools, two colleges, one (Al- leghany) belonging to the Methodist, and the other (a theo- logical school) to the Unitarian denomination. The open- ing of the Atlantic and Great Western Eailway has con- tributed greatly to the progress of that place ; and it de- rives a portion of its prosperity from Petrolia, though twenty miles west of the field of operations. "Three week- ly newspapers are printed there, and the Eailway Hotel claims to be the best in the world. Warren, like Corry and Meadville, lies on the outskirts of the oil region, being about fifty miles above Oil City by river. Navigation, however, is open only to Irvine, and that after a rise of water. Warren is an old county town, on the line of the Philadelphia and Erie Kailroad, and contains nearly twenty-five hundred inhabitants, with the usual public buildings and newspapers. It has just begun to feel sensibly the ground-swell of the petroleum development. A number of wells are in progress near Warren, and, if successful, it will leap upward like Corry or Titusville. Irvine is an unpretending railroad station, seven miles below Warren, with a well-kept hotel, and two or three small factories. Tideoute is an old village, or rather two villages joined together, pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Al- leghany, fourteen miles below Irvine. It has two church- es, hotels, barrel-factories, and about two thousand inhab- itants. The famous Economy wells lie on the opposite side of the river. Tionesta is a growing village, with perhaps five hun- dred inhabitants, about ten miles below Tideoute. It is Appearance of the Country, etc. 51 situated on the east side of the river, at the mouth of Tionesta Creek. East and West-Hickory are incipient villages higher up-stream, as is President lower down on the Alleghany. All these have their groups of wells completed or going down ; and may be said to have been called into existence by the discovery of petroleum. THE CLIMATE of that section of Pennsylvania is a subject of universal complaint in the spring season, when it is certain, the in- habitants say, to rain at least every other day. There is a good deal of truth in this remark. From the middle of March till the latter part of April, there were never three consecutive days, and seldom two, without rain or snow falling. As .throughout the whole Mississippi valley, the prevailing winds are from the cardinal points, the south and east gales being hot and moist — in other words, bringing thither from the Atlantic and the Mexican Gulf the moisture-laden vapors, which, upon being struck by dry, cold, currents from the north and west, give out their superabundant moisture in the form of rain, hail, snow, etc., according to the season. The atmospheric current preceding such a visitation is invariably succeeded by one blowing from the opposite direction, except where it is deflected from its course by mountains or waters. In fact, it would appear as if the precipitation of rain were di- rectly due to two currents blowing in contrary directions at the same time — the lower from the south or east, and the higher from the north- or west, and that with the gra- dual descent of the former toward the earth's surface the wringing-out process in the latter took place, thus creating a vacuum, into which a fresh gale rushes from the ocean. 52 Appearance of the Country, etc. The dry, magnetic winds from the interior would soon lick np the moisture not carried off by the streams, were it not for puddling of the surface to so great a depth by animals and vehicles. These general observations extend to the entire heart of the continent, as well as to the oil region of Pennsylvania. In the latter, however, a local influence exists, such as is not so sensibly felt further westward and southward. At the lower end of Lake Erie, large quantities of ice remain long after the "Western rivers, and even the upper portion of that lake, have been cleared. The hot, moist winds from the Atlantic naturally make for the lower end of the lake, where they assist in thawing the ice ; but in so doing are themselves wrung out by coming in contact with the belt of cold atmosphere immediately above it. Hence those frequent changes in the direction of the winds at that season, the numerous rainy days or parts of days, not making, in the aggregate, perhaps more inches of water than elsewhere under the same latitude ; but coming at short notice, and upsetting calculations, make living there more unpleasant than it otherwise would be. One interest alone, the hotel-keepers, reap large profits from this dis- pensation ; while the servants are oppressed with double duty if they attempt to preserve cleanliness in spite of muddy boots, muddy clothing, muddy luggage. If it be true that every man must eat his peck of dirt some time, in no other region is there an opportunity for dispatching this task so hastily as in Petrolia. THE PEOPLE. That man should be superior to his accidents is, we are told, the fundamental principle of true democracy. On Appearance of the Country, etc. 53 the whole, the Petrolians are superior to their surround- ings or circumstances. It takes time, however, to study their good and less good points of character. The stran- ger who visits that country in quest of fortune or infor- mation, is apt to form erroneous conclusions respecting them, the first few days. At the principal gateways lead- ing thither, he is certain to encounter a class different from the great body of operators in the valleys. The former consist largely of hangers-on about hotels and boarding- houses, who are in quest of victims ; of roystering, blas- phemous teamsters and boatmen ; of disappointed fortune- hunters, preparing to return home, and having a very low estimate of life and manners in Oildom. Everywhere he finds exorbitant charges, without an apparent disposition to oblige. If he be a religious man, he will be hourly shocked by profanity ; if a humane man, at the brutality with which the lower animals are treated ; if a man of generous instincts, at the intense selfishness, the sordid love of gain, so widely prevalent ; if a man of taste and culture, at the outlandish condition of the houses and the streets, with the indifference of the people toward intellectual pur- suits, beyond the immediately practical. If he proposes to introduce any other topic of conversation beyond the never-ending, still-beginning themes of oil and war, oil and politics, he will presently find his company thinning out. Ten minutes' loud conversation on philosophy, literature, science, or religion would give him full command of a parlor, or even a bar-room. For the inhabitants of those large towns removed thither to make money, and do not mean to be turned aside from the one grand object of existence. It would be wrong, however, to judge the entire popu- 54: Ajppeavcmce of the Country, etc. lation by this ingredient. Nay, (in Titusville,) I met one saloon-keeper who keeps up his old reading habits. Hav- ing pierced the crust of mere adventurers, speculators, and peculators, bespattered men and dowdy women, let the visitor traverse " the rural districts," and he will discover intelligence, refinement, even generosity. As a class, the superintendents of the large companies are gentlemen of culture, who would adorn any society. Not a few of them were commissioned officers in their country's service, who have gained honorable distinction ; some were conductors of newspapers, who have carried with them to that solitude their abundant knowledge of men and measures appertain- ing to the outside world. They are ready, at all reason- able times, to impart useful information, and the observa- tions gathered by this body of officials ought to be regarded as treasures of no ordinary value. And in point of kindness of heart and readiness to oblige, the engineers, drillers, and others engaged about the works will compare favorably with any other body of men I have ever seen. Where they could not give the trustworthy information sought, they were ever ready to put me on the trail after it. Of hoggishness, or a deliber- ate purpose to deceive, not one in fifty could be justly charged. Can the outside world produce a cleaner record ? Not that any class of employes are perfect in every re" spect. The officers are supposed to comprehend clearly more than one mode of raising gas as well as oil ; and in many instances, I fear, are too ready to wink at the bad schemes of stock-jobbers and speculators, if not to lend them active support. A kind of lax morality prevails that misrepresentation is, if not justifiable, at least excusable,, when committed in the interest of one's employers. Hence Appearance of the Country, etc. 55 the vast exaggeration in the yield of wells, and the studied concealment of facts that would injure the sale of stocks or interests at fictitious prices. The Spartan law, as a so- cial regulation, is still too generally obeyed ; for most of us chuckle when we hear of a dishonest operation, provid- ed the performer has been smart and successful in his stratagems to pick other persons' pockets. No community on the face of the earth has a smaller proportion of drones to the number of working bees than Petrolia. This observation applies to city, village, and single shanty. Nobody but has a hand engaged in some business or pursuit ; many in half a dozen. If a man be- takes himself to mercantile life, he reckons upon giving it from twelve to fifteen hours per day, filling up his leisure moments with speculation or an agency. The young fel- low who would stand at the street-corners elsewhere, there kills two birds with one stone by offering to sell wells, or interests in wells, or leases, or refusals to those whom he can button-hole. If Satan found mischief only for the idle, his occupation would be gone in the oil region. Per- haps the high cost of living has impelled the slothful as well as the diligent to this remarkable activity, but it seems to be an admitted principle on all hands that people have gone thither to work. On this account, the country is es- sentially orderly. Property as well as life is more secure than in any Eastern city. Even drunkenness is by no means as common as might be expected, in view of the rough-and-tumble modes of life prevalent. I have seen less of it in Oil City or Titusville than in country towns of the same size elsewhere. Yet I clo not believe that one ( man in fifty is a member of the temperance association. It is said that the vice of drinking prevails to a consider- 56 Appearcmce of the Country, etc. able extent on Sundays on some of the farms, but the wonder is that it should not have become universal. Last fall, intense excitement prevailed near Oil City, caused by the dead body of a resident having been found close by it. He had been murdered in open day. An indignation meeting held appointed a vigilance committee, and the whole population joining in chase of the crim- inals, they hastily decamped. It is supposed they were part of a gang from the East, who expected to " operate" in Petrolia as some of them had done in California. During the first three or four years of the oil excitement, little respect was shown to the first day of the week, and few attempts at establishing Christian worship were made outside the focal points. The flowing wells poured out their wealth on that day as on the remaining six, and the pumps copied, as far as possible, after the others' example ; so the people pumped, and barrelled, and drove, and ship- ped petroleum on Sunday as well as Saturday. Man lives not by oil alone, however, any more than by bread. A change has been gradually taking place in this respect, giving man and beast the advantage of a septennial day of rest. Perhaps this improvement was brought about by the men refusing to work ; perhaps as a stroke of policy, to retain the more sober and steady portion of the mecha- nics and laborers ; perhaps from conscientious motives on the part of the large companies. Sunday work seldom takes places now, except in wells which have been flood- ed, or are in danger of becoming unserviceable for a time, in consequence of the water getting the upper hand. At Eouseville, Petroleum Centre, and a few other points, small buildings have been erected, to serve for chapels on . Sunday and school-houses during the week. I am inclin- Appearance of the Country, ete. 57 ed to believe these are better sustained by commutations in money than bj personal devotiou, and that the worship- pers are more disposed to purchase tickets to the Celestial City for their friends and relatives than to get aboard of the cars and ride themselves. Like some other matters of importance, this is left till the fortune-hunters return to "the States." The fact is, in Petrolia, the church uni- versally believed in is an engine-house, with a derrick for its tower, a well for its Bible, and a two-inch tube for its preacher, with mouth rotund, "bringing forth things new and old," in the shape of two hundred barrels per day of crude oil, mingled with salt water. In the prin- cipal business-centres, regular societies have been insti- tuted ; but that practical Christianity which leads men not only to love and fear God, but love mercy and hate covetousness, is not in a flourishing condition. Indeed, I fear some of the " under shepherds" are more intent on oil development than in rebuking the vices and fol- lies of the community ; otherwise, it seems to me, profan- ity would be a little less common ; some sympathy would be shown to the brute creation ; selfishness and swin- dling would at least feel ashamed of themselves. I heard of a promising young divine who was making a good impression among his auditors, one of whom made him a present of a one- sixteenth interest in a well then go- ing down. Oil was struck, and the gift was converted into twenty thousand dollars; whereupon the preacher retired on a competency. Let us hope that others will not thus be drawn aside by a glance at the hill Lucre. The former proprietors in that part of Pennsylvania -were largely descended from the Protestant part of the Irish population ; and to this day retain many of the char- 58 Appearance of the Country, etc. acteristics of their ancestors. As a rule, they are slow, stead j, cautious, thrifty, and strong-willed. Nearly all have, on selling out, removed to Ohio or Western New-York, purchasing farms, and investing their surplus means in public securities. Many of them expect, after this whirl- wind blows over, to regain possession of their farms at a tithe of what they pocketed from Eastern agents. The new-comers are a mixture from all parts of the country. California, Iowa, Kansas, Minnesota, and Missouri being represented with New-England, New- York, and Pennsyl- vania. Even Yirginia, the Carolinas, Kentucky, and Tennessee have representative men there. The Petrolians are nothing if not geological. Nearly every operator is ready to discourse learnedly on rocks, formations, strata, (in the singular number !) shales, sand- stones, (comprising every thing from limestone to conglom- erate.) As in nature, so in human nature — no two agree. A, after describing "a most remarkable phenomena," is positive that the best wells are to be found on the east side of all runs and " criks." B asks you to examine " that strata,' 1 and concludes that prudent men should bore only on the slopes. C, an old gentleman, fussy and seedy-look- ing, avers that the country is of volcanic origin, and is. ready to point out certain rents in the hill-tops, through which Yulcan and his helpers found passages for the smoke and cinders of their forges ; whence the petroleum. It would be uncharitable to surmise that either of these sa- vans had a personal object in view, in the sale or leasing of land ; yet stranger things have happened in Petrolia. But of all original characters, the most amusing is the ancient ploughman, wood-chopper, or flat-boatman, meta- morphosed into a millionaire and a scholar. "This is Appearance of the Country, etc. 59 Sugar Crik," observed one of these newly extemporized linguists, " and that is a contributory to Sugar Crik ; and the symptoms of ile is very premonitory I" Others are in the habit of pointing out the great benefits certain to flow from the further " envelopment" of the country. It is clear that Dame Partington has given some valuable lessons in Western Pennsylvania ; indeed, who knows but that her ladyship has " oil on the brain " ? Health is the rule, and sickness the exception, there, in spite of the many drawbacks. Few persons exhibit the lean forms and sallow complexions so common in other parts of the country. On the contrary, as the men have a look of boldness and vigorous purpose, so they present the appearance of physical robustness in an unusual de- gree. This may be traceable, in part, to the circumstance that the hardships and privations felt there drive away the more feeble in mind, body, or purpose, who are thus strained out of the community. But there is more than this. The rough, wholesome, open-air exercise connected with this new life, the fresh mountain air, the fresh water pouring forth from a thousand springs, have built up the physique of hundreds of young men who previously lan- guished behind desks and counters in the cities ; have given them buoyancy of spirit as well as strength of limb, such as they never before enjoyed. The diseases to which strangers are said to be liable are principally connected with the digestive system, as diarrhoea, dysentery, etc. ; but it is questionable whether these are traceable to the water so much as to exposure and over-exertion, especially working up to the knees in water, and remaining in damp clothes. Of preparations for farming or gardening operations, 60 Appearance of the Country, etc. this spring, there are none. Speculation has become so rife that it extends to the uplands, which are accounted "too valuable" (such is the slang) for agricultural pur- poses. The little supply of milk that reaches the valleys, and nearly all the vegetables, equally with the supplies of meat and grain, come from great distances. The author believes that the best paying wells this year may be struck within eighteen inches of the surface, by drilling with a plough, reaming with a hoe, tubing with garden-seeds, and pumping with manure. " Olei sacra fames /" The insane desire of oil is demor- alizing. It leads to every imaginable kind of misrepre- sentation and cheating. In every transaction involving profit and loss, falsehood is expected, is looked upon as the rule, truth as the exception. This indifference to veracity and honor does not merely extend to matters connected with the oil- wells, but to those of every- day life — to en- gagements entered into by landlord and tenant, by me- chanics, laborers, etc., whenever a slight advantage may arise by violating them. This " covenant-breaking," where no other obligation than a man's word exists, forms a topic of general complaint in Petrolia ; and at this mo- ment, it is not too much to say that no one expects his neighbor to certainly fulfil the conditions of a merely verbal contract CHAPTER in. LOCATING AND SINKING THE WELLS. In the earlier days of well-sinking, the inexperienced operator planted his derrick and drilled his well wherever he detected " surface indications " of petroleum,- probably little thinking that it might show itself on the ground at a point far from vertical to its proper source in the sand- rocks. In general, the margins of rivers and creeks were preferred to spots more distant, even though equally low ; hence the first crop of derricks grew up close to Oil Creek and the Alleghany. Even at this late day there is little to guide the adventurous operator beyond the con- ceded existence of oil-veins in the inferior rocks, which circumstance, however, could only become known by mak- ing numerous experiments. A new profession of men, claiming to be gifted with extraordinary powers, has arisen in Petrolia, namely, " oil-smellers "or " diviners." Let not the pious reader start with alarm, lest the practice of divination, (whatever it may have been,) condemned so repeatedly in the Mosaic code, has been revived in West- ern Pennsylvania and Yirginia. ISTo devil, demon, ghost, ghoul, fairy, goblin, or table-tapping spirit is known or believed to be at work, albeit the use of a twig of witch- hazel or peach might readily enough suggest to some the calling up of spirits from their vasty deep by modern en- 62 Locating and Sinking the Wells. chanters. The mode of operating is substantially as fol- lows : The diviner cuts from one of the trees mentioned, a bifurcated bough or twig, reducing the stem and the forks to about a foot in length, for convenience' sake. In each hand he grasps firmly one end of the fork, letting the stem point upward and a little inward. The hands should be held with their backs downward. With this simple ap- paratus off goes the "smeller ;" and, on arriving above an oil- vein, it is claimed that the twig will turn round in his hands, in spite of his utmost exertions, until the stem points directly downward. It may be grasped so tightly that the rind will peel off by the operation ; yet this will not prevent the revolution in his hands. The author once witnessed this operation going on in the hands of a gen- tleman of much intelligence and the utmost veracity, who was not a believer in the oil-smeller's claims or preten- sions, yet had to acknowledge the existence of the phe- nomenon for which he could not account. It appears that the twig has not this remarkable power in the hands of all persons ; for the author was unable to perceive any change or tendency in the wand in his own hand, on arriving at the same spot. Whether the difference were owing to magnetic influence or other cause, is unknown ; as also whether the motion betokens the presence of water, petro- leum, both, or neither. In England, it is said, the witch- hazel has long been used in this manner for the discovery of coal; in some parts of the Eastern States people try it to alight upon water-veins. In the oil-regions, some of the most productive wells have been located by oil-smell- ers ; in more cases, however, their vaticinations of first- class works turn out mere moonshine. However, the di- viners have become a power in Petrolia, among a people Locating and Sinking the Wells. 63 as keenly inquisitive and practical as are to be found, who reason in this way : " If there be any thing in oil-smelling, we may as well avail ourselves of it as not; for the diviner charges only from twenty -five to one hundred dollars for his services in examining a tract ; and this is an inconsiderable item in the general expense, seeing we mean to bore any how." There is a pretty general impression that he is a better guide negatively than positively ; that while oil may not be struck just where he directs, it is useless to sink where he has pronounced none to exist. In a word, the charmer, magnetizer, or natural magician has more real power among the operators than the latter are willing to openly concede. The principal matters now attended to in locating a well are the following : The ground ought to be low, to make as little drilling as possible suffice ; yet not so low as to be subject to floods. The lesson taught by the late freshet has been a most costly one in this respect. There should be sufficient space nearly level, for the derrick, en- gine-house, tank, etc. ; this secured, they may be placed on the top of a knoll or the face of a bluff. There should be no hard boulders on or immediately below the spot where it is proposed to drill, as the driving-pipe must descend perpendicularly. It is of some consequence to have facil- ities to reach navigation for shipping the product and re- ceiving a supply of fuel. But the one prime considera- tion on the part of experienced men is, to plant the der- rick on a spot directly on a line between two paying wells, where there is doubtless the best chance of striking a good vein. Indeed, without breaking ground, the managers, whose well-springs are thus threatened, may take the alarm, and offer to buy out the new-comer at his own 64 Locating and Sinking the Wells. price. For this is one of the methods by which operators sometimes make their fortune. A spot having been selected, the next business is to get an engine, erect the engine-house, the derrick, and other out- works. The house is a simple structure of rough boards, with perhaps a bunk for the engineer's sleeping apartment. The derrick stands at the distance of thirty or forty feet, the walking-beam, which plays upon a heavy upright pil- lar, called "the samson-post," stretching between them. The walking-beam is a heavy timber, from fifteen to twenty feet long. The derrick is a sort of pyramidal structure, resting on a square base, each of its sides being * from ten to fifteen feet long, and rising to a height of forty or fifty feet, the summit approaching a point. The four principal pillars are strongly laced together by cross-tim- bers, into one of which rungs are driven, to make it serve as a ladder. Occasionally the whole structure is covered with boards, making it look like a tower ; but more fre- quently they are content with protecting the driller from the elements. Under the apex rests a pulley -block, through which passes the long and powerful cable used in the work. The object in making the derrick so tall is to enable the workmen to use a longer and heavier drill- ing apparatus than formerly ; its various parts, when put together, forming a continuous iron bar of thirty feet in length. It also enables them to withdraw or put down the tubes more readily. The weight of the tools now used in drilling commonly exceeds one thousand pounds, striking a powerful blow at each revolution of the crank. The next step is to put down the surface-pipe or driv- ing-pipe to a sufficient depth, so as to prevent earth or stones from falling into the pit, either while drilling goes Locating and Sinking the Wells. 65 on or afterward. This is a work both of difficulty and delicacy, since the pipe must be forced down through all obstructions to a great depth ; while it must be perfectly vertical. Sometimes a hard boulder is encountered below the surface, which bends the tube to one side, in which event the work has to be abandoned. The depth to which operators usually force this down varies, many striving to drive it some distance into the first sand-rock, while others content themselves with reaching twenty, thirty, or forty feet. The pipe, made of cast-iron, has commonly a five- inch aperture and is one inch thick, being cast in lengths of nine feet. The apparatus for forcing it into the ground is a pile-driving machine, very simple in its construction and mode of 'Operation. A wooden wheel and axle, termed the " bull- wheel," is geared to the engine by means of a stout rope, which, in the hands of one of the work- men, can be made tight to the axle or let slip at any mo- ment, the rope being wound four or &ve times around it. When the engine and crank move, up rises the ram, a block of ibur hundred or five hundred pounds, to a height of perhaps six feet, between strong wooden shears to keep it in its place ; the rope is then let slip, and the ram descends with a stunning blow on a plate or cap placed on the top of the pipe. At every blow a percepti- ble movement of the tube downward takes place ; and it has sometimes happened that the driving-pipe could be put down its required length in little more than a day ; in very hard ground, however, the operation may consume a whole week. The object of the bull- wheel, to the outside of which hold-fasts are nailed at short distances apart, is to operate as a brake, in the first place, so that a downward motion can be checked at any point in operating the well, 66 Locating and /Sinking the Wells. and also to enable the workmen to raise or lower the tools, tubing, etc., in case the engine should not be run- ning. By the aid of the pulley above, and the leverage of the wheel below, one man will, using hands and feet, bring half a ton up from the nether regions. Sometimes, indeed, the pile-driver proves unable to force the driving-pipe to its desired depth, owing to a bed of sand- rocks intervening. In this case, it is customary to set the drill at work, making a three-inch opening through the obstruction. This creates a vacuum, into which the fragments broken off by the pipe in its descent can fall, when the ordinary appliances above are apt to force it downward. Otherwise the men will be compelled to pull up stakes and try elsewhere. Colonel Drake was the man who introduced this implement into the oil regions, as also sundry other valuable improvements. Now begins the task of drilling — a task requiring from four weeks to as many months. A strong cable is coiled round the bull-wheel axle, and passed through the pulley- block at the top of the derrick, its other en