TT 198 .U6 Copy 1 UPHOLSTERY TRADE NAMES Definitions of Principal Trade Terms— Helpful Facts for Buyer and Seller of Decorative House- hold Fabrics. PRICE, 25 CENTS UPHOLSTERY TRADE NAMES Reprint from The Dry Goods Economist^ U IV. 39th St., Ne^i) York City, Knowledge Is Power" Copyn\S[hted, 1911, by the Drv Goods Ecofiomist. '^^ SERIES OF 10 BOOKLETS ON RETAILING SUBJECTS 20 Store Leaks Special Sales Names and A Cost- Mark System Establishing A Mail-Order De- partment To Determine Frequency of Stock Turnover Finding Average Due Date Handling C, O. D.'s, "Memos." and "Approvals " Upholstery Trade Names Floor Covering Terms and Tables Card Records for Shoe Stocks Lace Terms Defined Price, 25 Cents E^ach ©CI.A292922 UPHOLSTERY TERMS DEFINED. Materials, Styles and Processes Described. Allover. — A term used in textile designing to indicate a pattern or series of figures which entirely covers the surface of the fabric. Antique^ — A term applied to imitations of ancient styles of lace; also to patterns ir- regularly or indistinctly woven to simulate effects produced in olden times. Applique. — Materials cut out and sewed, em- broidered or pasted on other materials. Arabesque.r — ^A type originated by Arabian ar- tists. This usually consists of geometrical figures, flowers, fruits, foliage, etc., grouped together, Arabian Curtain. — A lace curtain composed of a center of stout netting, edged with Ara- bian lace. Arrasene. — An ornamental cord, consisting of a central thread covered with a velvety pile of wool or silk. Art Deiiim. — A twilled cotton fabric, usually 36 inches wide. It is woven of selected fine yarns and dyed in plain, soft shades. This fabric is often printed in allover patterns and is used for draperies, table and furni- ture covers, pillow tops and other decorative purposes. See Denim. Art Fabric. — A term emi3loyed to designate various textures used for decorative pur- poses. Aubusson Tapestry. — One of the best known of the earlier tapestries. Made originally in the royal factory in Aubusson, France, its manufacture spread to private factories. 3 This fabric is used largely for wall hang- ings, curtains and furniture covers. Baize. — A course woolen fabric finished on one side. It has a short close nap, and is dyed in plain colors. It is used principally for desk and table covers, also for curtains. Banbury Plush. — A woolen variety of uphol- stery plush which was first made in the town of Banbury, England. Barre. — Materials having stripes or bars Tun- ing across the cloth, produced by various processes of weaving or printing. See also Bayadere, Basket Cloth. — A fabric largely used for dec- orative purposes, woven in imitation of the open pleated work employed in making bas- kets or other articles of straw, reed, cane, etc. The effect is always of a cross inter- lacing of one or more strands of warp and filling. Batting. — Raw cotton or wool carded into sheets of varying thickness, used for pad- ding chiefly. Bayadere. — A pattern effect produced by stripes running across the width of the goods. See also Barre. Binding. — A narrow strip of material used to protect raw edges. Bohhinet. — One of the simplest forms of cot- ton netting, in which a six-cornered mesh is produced by machinery. Bobbinet forms the foundation of lace curtains. See also Leavers Lace. Brocade. — A fabric upon which the ornamen- tal pattern is brought out in relief by rais- ing, or floating, a number of threads, either in warp or weft. Brocatel. — A form of brocade, heavy in tex- ture, woven of cotton or silk, or both, in • large, bold patterns. The figures are raised in strong relief. This fabric is used chiefly for draperies, furniture coverings, etc. Brussels Lace Curtain. — A window hanging consisting of a foundation of fine netting, ornamented with a delicate pattern, usually of vines, applied in heavy thread by a bon- naz machine, with additional details filled in by hand. Bunting. — A plain, soft-woven worsted fab- ric, used chiefly for flags and draperies. Burlap. — A coarse, heavy and very strong material of jute or hemp, used for founda- tion work by upholsterers, and also as a covering for walls and floors. It also forms the foundation of linoleums and floor oil- cloths. Cachemire. — A type of Oriental patterns and colorings resembling Persian efl*ects. Canopy. — A suspended covering intended as a protection or shelter. Bed canopies consist of metal frames, from which are suspended coverings of netting which completely en- close the bed. The term canopy is also applied to the tester of a bed, and some- times to the covering of a wall decoration, such as over a lambrequin. Chenille.: — A pile fabric used largely for draperies and table covers. It is made with a fringed cotton or silk thread for the weft and a fine cotton yarn for the warp. Both sides are finished alike, the design, if any, being formed entirely of the filling, or fur, the pattern being brought out in the weaving in the same manner as that of a tapestry carpet. Chenille Cord. — A fancy cord made of silk and wool, or entirely of silk or wool, for decorative purposes. It is used largely for upholstery fringes and embroidery and in appearance is thick and velvety. Chijimi. — A Japanese drapery silk, 30 inches wide, dyed in fast colors. %5 Chintz. — A species of calico printed in colors and generally glazed. It is used to some extent for draperies and furniture covering. Chintz Braid. — A species of cotton galloon printed in small patterns. Chirimen.< — Also known as Japanese silk crepe. A crinkled, puckered silk fabric printed in various bright colorings and de- signs, often used for drapery purposes. A similar fabric woven of cotton is used for various upholstery purposeis. Cluny Lace Curtain. — A curtain composed of a center of net ornamented with an edging of Cluny lace. Cluny Tapestry. — A strong, heavy variety of tapestry, usually woven in ecclesiastical de- signs and intended for use as hangings or curtains. The materials used are wool and silk. Corduroy. — A corded pile woven fabric pro- duced by a species of pile weaving in which the pile is formed in loops of varjdng length. When these loops are cut the ef- fect produced is that of a series of rounded ridges separated by depressions in which the foundation cloth is visible at times. In the lighter textures corduroy is used for draperies, furniture covering and other up- holstery purposes. Cretonne. — A strong cotton fabric, usually plain woven and soft finished, printed in floral designs suitable for draperies, furni- ture coverings, etc. Curtain Damask. — An upholstery fabric of silk or other material, woven with a satin ground and figure. Curtain Drapery. — Goods sold by the yard for sash and window curtains, such as or- gandies, nets, Swiss muslins, Nottingham laces and other open mesh fabrics. Curtain muslin includes all cotton or other fabrics 6 so used^ if woven in a fabric resembling muslin. Curtain Tapestry.^ — An upholstery fabric con- sisting of two systems of warp and weft, woven in large, bold patterns. Curtain tap- estries are usually woven with silk threads on the face and cotton, worsted or jute yarns for the interior portion. Cut Work. — A term used to describe various classes of applique work by which decora- tive designs, panels, etc., are applied or in- serted in various hangings. Damask. — A twilled fabric woven with satin ground and figure; usually self-colored, but at times different colored threads are intro- duced, as in a brocade. In the true damask the ground and pattern are worked out in satin weaves, one at a right angle to the other. Denim. — A heavy twilled cotton fabric, usual- ly dyed in plain colors, and sometimes woven in stripes and checks. Art Denim is a finer grade of denim, usually 36 inches wide, and sometimes printed in allover pat- terns. It is used for draperies, pillow tops, furniture covers and numerous other pur- poses. Drawn Work. — A method of ornamenting cer- tain fabrics by pulling out some of the threads, the purpose being to show openings through which contrasting colors may some- times appear. Embossing. — The process of producing raised figures upon the surface of textiles, leather, etc. Embossing on velvets and similar fab- rics is accomplished by passing the goods between heated metal rollers, upon which suitable patterns have been cut. In needle- work it is customary to emboss by working over and through a pad of fabric, cord or hair. Embroidery. — The art of producing ornamen- tal designs upon fabrics by needlework. Embroidery is conceded to be one of the earliest forms of decorating fabrics for either household use or dress purposes. The great value of embroidery lies in the in- dividuality of the v^^ork and in the modi- fications of which it is susceptible. It may be divided into two principal classes: (1) the production of designs entire, and (2) the fastening of detached pieces as in ap- plique or embossing work. There is no decorative fabric upon which embroidery of some form has not been used, and in the work every known fiber and numerous me- tallic threads are utilized. Embroidery Canvas.^ — A term embracing the various weaves of cotton, linen, silk and woolen fabrics used for making any of the numerous embroidered articles which enter into the decoration of the home. These fabrics, of whatever material, are woven in regular square meshes of uniform sizes so that the length of stitches may be easily regulated. Embroidery Cotton. — ^A soft twisted cotton thread, either dyed or bleached, used for embroidering. It is put up in balls and skeins and ranges in thickness from No. 6 to No. 24. Embroidery Silk. — Soft twisted threads of pure silk of various thicknesses. These in- clude twist, floss, filo, rope and etching silks. They are to be had in all colors. Escurial. — A term used in embroidery and textile designing to describe winding line effects. Festoon Drapery. — A ready-made curtain for windows and archways, usually made of damask and fringed. Filling. — The threads which extend from side to side of a fabric. In lace curtains the filling represents plain net^ upon which the pattern is mounted. Frieze. — Any horizontal strip or band of an ornamental nature placed upon a wall. Fringe. — An extensively used trimming made of threads or cords of various thicknesses. Fringes are also made by fraying or ravel- ing the edges of a fabric. Furniture Cord.> — A small rope of cotton, silk or other material, the strands of which may be of varied colors. It is used for uphol- stery trimmings. Gimp. — A narrow flat trimming of rather open design, used for borders of curtains, furniture trimming, etc. Genapping. — A process of singeing worsted yards, such as are used in some fringes. Gobelin Tapestry. — A class of rich French tapestries produced at the national estab- lishment of the Gobelins, in Paris. Holland. — A plain cotton or linen fabric largely used for window shades. It is to be obtained in two varieties, glazed and opaque, the latter being made impervious to the sun's rays by a sizing of oil and starch. Irish Point Lace Curtain. — A curtain with a foundation of fine netting, upon which is appliqued a large flowing pattern in strips of cambric. This cambric is basted in posi- tion, then stamped with the design, which is next worked in in coarse thread on a bonnaz machine. The curtain is next washed and starched, after which all sur- plus cambric is clipped away with scissors. Lambrequin. — A sort of shallow curtain used to cover the upper part of an opening; a short curtain or drapery suspended from a mantel-shelf. Leavers Lace. — A type of bobbinet made on a machine invented in 1809 by John Heath- coat, of Nottingham, England, and im- proved in 1813 by John Leavers. This lace forms the foundation of most lace curtains, the decoration being added either by ap- plique work, or by the use of jacquard mechanism in the weaving. Macrame. — An ornamental cotton upholstery trimming formed of a long fringe of coarse threads of cords, usually linotted into geo- metrical designs. Madras Works. — A species of embroidery up- on printed silk or cotton goods in which the embroidery outlines and emphasizes the pattern. Moreen.' — A closely woven fabric of wool or mohair filling with a cotton warp, woven in imitation of moire antique and used for curtains. Net Curtain. — A type of lace curtain consit:t- ing of a centerpiece of netting and a bor- der of lace; sometimes a net ornamented by some form of applique work. Nottingham Curtains. — A type of machine- made lace curtain. Originally made in Nottingham, England, but for the last twenty-five years they have been made in steadily growing quantities in this country. The machines on which these curtains are produced can be operated for any width up to 400 inches. They are always three or four yarns used in making these curtains — bobbin, warp, spool and extra beam. Pekin. — A term used to designate alternate stripes extending from end to end of the material, i. e., along the warp. Persian Pattern. — Any design made in imi- tation of those peculiar to real cashmere shawls. The conventional Persian type of 10 patterns consists of a grouping of curved cone figures with the background filled in with flowers, leaves, etc. Pile Fabrics. — Materials woven with a pile surface, as velvet, plush, velour, velveteen, corduroj^ and carpet. Pillow Cord. — A fancy string or small rope of cotton, or silk, used for trimming edges of chairs, couches or cushions. Plush. — A cut pile fabric of silk, cotton, flax or wool, woven with the pile deeper than that of velvet; used extensively for dra- peries and other upholstery purposes. Quilling. — A narrow border, pleated or fluted, to resemble a row of quills. Renaissance Lace Curtain. — Any curtain, whether of net or silken fabric, ornamented with Renaissance lace. Rep. — In furniture covering, a heavy wide material of cotton, wool or silk, or a mixture of these materials, woven with transverse ribs and sometimes ornamented with a pat- tern usually of a large floral design. Sash Curtain.^A short curtain intended to screen the lower sash of a window. Scrim. — A thin cotton fabric of loose, open texture, used for curtains and draperies. Shade Cloth. — Heavily sized, opaque cloth used for making window shades. See also Hollands. Srviss Tambour Curtain. — A net curtain very similar to Brussels, but coarser and of cheaper construction. There is none of the hand work as on a Brussels. Tambour Muslin Curtain. — A curtain of fine, sheer muslin, ornamented with chain stitch- ing in scrool designs. 11 Tambour Work.> — A form of embroidery es- pecially adapted to the ornamentation of curtains, etc. Tapestry. — A fabric used for hangings, screens, etc., originally made entirely by hand and consisting of a series of warp threads bound together by short colored threads, individually fastened in position and, by their selection, forming the pattern. Real Tapestries, as those so made are now called, are too expensive for general use and have been superseded by regularly woven fabrics which closely resemble in ap- pearance the originals. These machine- made goods are called Curtain Tapestries and are used for curtains, hangings, table and furniture coverings, etc. Tassel. — A pendant ornament consisting gen- erally of a mold covered with threads which hang in a thick fringe. Ticking. — A firm twilled fabric of cotton or linen, usually ornamented with woven stripes or printed figures, used chiefly as a covering for mattresses, pillows, etc. Valance. — A short curtain used upon a bed- stead, either around the frame upon which the mattress rests or around the head of the canopy. A valance is also used to fill in the upper part of an opening, such as arch or window, where other drapery is used. Warp. — The threads or yarns which extend lengthwise in the loom and across which the weft is thrown in the process of weaving. Weft. — The threads which extend across the fabric from side to side and with the warp form the foundation of the goods. Also called the woof or filling. 12 One copy del. to Cat. Div. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS MM 009 937 724