Class Book ^ GoRyriglit}!"- COPnUGHT DEPOSIT. / 26 Cents. THE ^^^ Etiquette — OF — Men s Dress. New York : "the men's outfitter,' Mercantile Exchange Building, cor. Hudson and Harrison Sts. 1888. *^- •(ri- FISK, CLARK & FLAGG, Men's Neckwear, GLOVES, BRACES, SHIRTS, NIGHT SHIRTS, BEARING OUR NAME ARE THE BEST THAT CAN BE MADE. ■m- f — ■ f BUDD. (( Madison Square, NEW YORK, QjTFITTl[MGS°QEpLEP]Ef^'s STREET AND EVENING WEAR WEDDING OUTFITS A SPECIALTY- ■r THE Etiquette — OF Men's Dress New York: ' the men's outfitter," Mercantile Exchange Building, cor. Iludion and Harrison Sts. lSS8. ^\o^ Copyright^ 1888, By CHAS. CLUCAS. All rights reserveO. yo-io sj PUBLISHER'S ANNOUNCEMENT. This volume is published by " The Men's Outfitter" (formerly The Furnishing Goods Trade Review), for ten years the standard authority on men's dress for the United States. It has been prepared wiih great care, and \vhat it presents mry be relied upon as correct, and authoritative, and as repesentirg the prevailing metropolitan customs. Many of the articles have been prepared by writers of well known familiarity with the several subjects treated by thtm. For instance tlic chipter on bicycling is from the pen of Mr. Thos. S evens, and that on racing was written ly Mr. Charles Victor Sass, while others are the contributions of specialistf of ec^ual prominence and authority. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAOE. AFTERN'OO?^ RECEPTIONS, - - - - 48 BALL ROOM, --. -. --15 BICYCLING, ----- -- 56 BUSINESS, - - . . . - - 22 CALLS, (ev^ening) ------- 37 CANOEING, - --.---_ (35 DINNERS, - , . - » - - - 35 DRIVING, -------- /6 FUNERALS, ------ . '/I HUNTING, - - - - - , - _ (J2 LOUNGING, ------- 29 NIGHTWEAR, ----... 29 OCEAN STEAMERS, r)9 OPERA, - ;},S RACE-COURSE, 85 U " CONTENTS. PAGE. RECEPTIONS, ---C.O-..-48 RTDINa, - -_.--- 73 SHOOTING, - - ------65 TENNIS, ----»-. 51 THEATRE. - - -----38 TOBOCrGANrNG, ------ 90 TRAVELING, (R. R.) - - - - - - 79 " (steamer) ----- 5& WALKING, - - - . - - - 45 WEDDINGS, (day) - -. •- - - . 39 " (evening) ----- 44 YACHTING > ---.-- 82 InlroJuctory. " •^if'''^ ^^ ^^® ^"^ ^^^''^* ''^ "^''^^ ^^^^ *^^ society," i^l'^ says Abbe Latour, "to divss like a geiitle- J(^'^ man." This fact beinjj; iiiuversallv conceded, '^ as it incontestably is in polite society, the problem for the neophyte entering within the ^^ats a trilie imperial, hut tlie effect upon the early luornini; caller of a spick and span costume of this kind is somewhat more af^reeabh? than tlie less formal con- ventional robe-wrap usually alfected as an undress costume. THE LOUNGING SACK. As lounging is not a custom constitutionally pre- valent at all hours of the day, the man of taste, after removing his morning robe, will require no further consultation with the oracle of fashion in dress, so far as this department is concerned, until he has finished his routine of daily duties and worn the various suits that his business or pleasure may have demanded. But when dinner is over and the evening is before him at home, for a cosy rubber at whist or euchre, or a turn with the cue at the billiard table, he dons a lounging coat. This gar- ment is, in cut, a short sack, and is made with a standing collar, with a full, rolling collar or without any collar. It is variously known as a billiard, poker, or smoking jacket or house coat, but the distinctions are in name rather than in style. The materials used for winter wear are heavy silk or wool stidfe, the latter in plain colors, heather mixtures or plaid effects, and for summer, light, colored flannels, Madras and pongee. . THE DRESS SACK. But if he has worn evening dress at dmner, and the occasion is formal enough to require the sem- blance of dress during the evening, he must, if lie would be dressed as fashion dictates, remove his dinner coat and lay out his new evening dress sack, or "tailless dress coat," as it is some- times defined. There has been a deal of nonsense tired off by the uninitiated regarding this inno- vation, which is comparatively recent. The reader 32 LOUN-GING DRESS AND NIGHT WEAR. may be assured that tliis garment is not such a very formidable novelty after all. It is in fact as old as the hills as a garment, althougli it is un- familiar in Europe and in the United States. The " tailless dress coat " is in fact nothing more or less than the East India tea coat which has been worn in Calcutta and all the oriental capitals for probably a quarter of a century. It was designed to meet the requirements of an informal dress gar- ment, for use in a warm country where such ex- traneous nuisances as tails or anything that added to the weight or density of a garment were unde- sirable. It is not improbable, indeed, that the nobby dress jacket of the Eton school boy suggested this convenient and stylish garment to the English officials, who first devised it for their use in the East to define 'by their dress the social gatherings, like general receptions, high teas, and the like, as less formal than' the exceptional state occasions, where full dress with all regalia is worn. And now these " swagger '^ coats, as they appear to us Ameri- cans, have become a regular fashion for wear at home in the evening, at card parties, private billiard bouts and the like. Disciples of Darwin would de- fine this garmsnt probably as an evolution of the claw-hanmer, and claim it as a triumphant demon- stration of the origin of the species. At all events the tailless coat seems destined to fall alike upon the just and the unjust, but the intrepid dude how presumes upon its novelty as warranting its appearance at a ball or evening reception will be severely frowned upon. It is not intended to re- place the claw-hammer for these occasions, and it must not be worn at formal affairs. It is simply designed to afford a man of taste an opportunity for wearing a special and appropriate costume in which to meet his friends in a stylish neglige yet dressy evening garb. Sitting at a table a gentleman looks precisely as if dressed in a neat- fitting claw-ham- PA.IAMA Sl'IT 84 LOUNGING DRESS AND NIGHT WEAR. mer, tlie sack being made of the same materials, but it is alwavs made with rolling shawl collar with fac- ings of silk. The vest, shirt front, collar, necktie and other details are precisely as described for full evening dress. In the selection of cloth for the tail- less coat, diagonal will probably find the most pre- ference. SLEEPNG COSTUME. A word as to a gentleman's sleeping costume may be relevant here. For a healthful change from the old-time conventional night-shirt made of cotton, the pajama has of late years been pretty generally introduced. This, as is well known, is in form like a French bathing suit, made loose, and of light ma- terial. Pongee silk is very generally used for these garments; they are also made of light flannels or cashmere, madras and priated percales. To gen- tlemen sensitive to exposure to draughts the pajama recommends itself, and the silk material is accredited as desirable from a sanitary point of view. THE BATH WRAP. The bath wrap is a mantle, ample and liberal in proportions, sufficiently large to wind about and en- velope the whole figure. It is caught at the neck by a hook, button or cord, a girdle encircles the waist and it is often embellished with a cowl hanging from the collar. Its legitimate use is to provide a covering while in transit between the bath-room and dressing-room, but it often serves for a lounging garment after all the business and pleasures of the day are over, in the seclusion of the private apart- ment. These come in fancy flannels, Turkish towel- ings, and other fabrics. ^^ * Dinner5. j:j HE matter of a regulation dress for dinners, evening calls and theatres must be adjusted to s:^ the customs prevailing in the localities wherfi these social indulgences are exercised. In New York Cit}- more formality in dress on these oc- casions undoubtedly prevails than in Boston or Chicago for instance, while in those cities there is more formality than in many others. INo sensitive man likes to be conspicuous, and if he violates the customs of the community in Avhi'di he may be resid- ing, either permanently or transiently, he gives him- self a prominence that is sure to call forth remark that will prove embarrassing. Therefore, in spite of any rule of Metropolitan life he is perfectly justified in adopting the costume generally in vogue in the locality in which he is moving, and if he is in doubt ot what this is, he cannot be criticised for displaying his ignorance by enquiry. ^ In Xew York, largely in Boston, less so, perhaps, in Philadelphia and Chicago, and on a receding scale in other cities proportioned to their size, for a formal dinner the dress is precisely the same as at a formal evening; reception or fashionable ball, viz : a swallow tail coat, low cut vest, and black trousers to match coat, one, two or three button shirt, white lawn necktie or bow, square cuffs and link sleeve 36 DINNERS. buttons. The gloves should be as for balls, of a delicate pearl color with, preferably, a stitching of the same shade. For what is known as the " stag " dinner, that is, where no ladies are expected, the dress described above is sometimes varied by a change in necktie, viz : the substitution of black satin for white lawn. For an informal dinner, where a gentleman meets intimate family friends, and especially where there are no guests save himself, he may wear the same dress as at an afternoon tea, viz. a double breasted Prince Albert or a dark cut-away coat of diagonal or rough Saxony cloth, vest to match, cut rather low, dark steel colored or stone colored trousers with a rich corded stripe in the figure, and four-in- hand scarf, preferably of white silk gros grain or ottoman, but not a fancy scarf striped or spotted with colors. f^ Evr>nii)6 f i\Il5 y UCn the same usage as that described for hrl-" ^""^*^^s prevails. The dress is influenced K^-fV by the character of the occasion. AVhere a gentleman is calling to return the cour- tesy of a formal invitation previously accepted to an afternoon tea or reception, he should call within one week after the affair, preferably npon the hostess' usual "at home" or regular reception evening, and he should wear full evening dress. Or, if he receives "at home" cards for Monday evenings in January for instance, he will know that the hostess will be at home in evening dress on these occasions, and he must call in full evening dress, or leave or send his card with his regrets if engaged or unable to accept the courtesy. If, on tlie contrary, he is making an informal call without special invitation, and not expecting to find other guests, he may, if he prefers, wear his after- noon reception dress as he would at an informal family dinner, with the addition of gloves of a light shade, but not as light or dressy as with full evening dress # TKe Oper^ ^nJ IKe TKe^Ire. ^^ P'T tlie grand Italian or German opera the only : proper dress is the full dress snit. In Lon- ' don no man is admitted to the floor or boxes of the opera house if he is not in full evening dress, and while there is no such regulation in the New York Metropolitan opera house the custom prevails almost as universally as in London. As to dress at dramatic performances, the lines are not so closely drawn. If a gentleman joins a regular theatre party, either in a private box or in orchestra seats, he should wear full evening dress, and in fact at all times full dress is admissible at the theatre in the evening, but its absence is of course excusable when a gentleman has accepted an informal invitation to dinner, and goes dressed in afternoon costume, and afterwards invites his friends or is invited to the theatre informally. Light clothes are especially common and objectionable at the theatre and, indeed, in some European theatres no gentleman is admitted in the boxes or stalls save in full evening dress. Of course the same influences are at work to de- termine the costume for the theatre as are described in a preceding chapter on dinners. There are cities in the Union where a full dress suit would at- tract attention and excite remark at the theatre. In such, a man should adopt the custom of the town. (^ D(xy V(?dJin<^5. # ''iJ^fUT little latitude is allowed in the outer 'j.V clothing for this occasion. A choice of two '^*-^'\ styles of coat is permitted, the ciit-a-way and ^ the Prince Albert, with a preference for the former distinctly npnarent. At many of tlie most fashionable affairs of tliis nature occurring in New York this year and last, the cut- a- way coat was worn l)y all the members of the bridal parties. In Eng- land it is superceding the Prince Albert for all oc- casions, and there is no doubt it is in this country making rapid progress in the same direction. Never- theless the double breasted frock has been too long recognized as the only proper garment for dressy day entertainments to ])e driven from its supremacy without a struggle, and at some of the affairs in New York, where matters of this nature have received careful attention, it has prevailed in spite of the decline that is apparent elsewhere. Ihe cut-away coat is unquestionably a great popular favorite for all day occasions, but it must be borne in mind that the coat for an afternoon canter, for instance, though in cut nearly the same as the one provided for a wedding, presents differences in fabric and in iinish tliat individualize it and mark a distinction. These are important points to the man who studies the art of dress, and they should be to a certain ex- DAY WKDDIN'CS. 41 tent observetl by all. Whichever r-oat is worn it must be black, and of a linished fal)ric, usually a fine diagonal. If a cut-a-way, four buttons are looked uiK)n as more dressy than three, and the buttons must l)e covered eitlier with silk or the ma- terial of whicli the coat is made, and never of an un- covered substance as liorn, rubber, etc. The Prince Albert reaches a little above the bend of the knee, is double breasted, is bound witli silk braid and silk- faced, lias four buttons, and the materials diagonal worsteds. THE VKST. The vest accompanying either style is of the same cloth as the coat; it has live buttons to match those on the coat, and the notch collar. It is cut rather lower than last season, w^ith tlie intention of giving a fuller display of the scarf and shirt bosom. TimrsEKs. The trousers should be of cassimere, or other fine, smooth finished goods in a light ground, relieved by a darker stripe or invisible check. The tone of the trousers should be on tlie drab or stone color, and tills shading should be produced by tlie combination of the ground color with the figure eilects, in prefer- ence to plain goods. THE SCAUF. The scarf should be the four-in-hand, of a width of two or two and a quarter inches. The fabric should be a rich silk gros grain or ottoman, and white. Sometimes pale shades of heliotrope, strawberry and sky are worn, but white is the prevailing style and is recommended as more appropriate than colors. (J LOVES. Light tan, embroidered on the back in the same shade or black, or pearl grey embroidereil in black are the two styles of gloves preferred for afternoon weddings. The kit r^r is largely the favorite of the two. 42 DAY WEDDINGS. JEWELRY. For jewelry, a small scarf pin is permissible this season. It pierces the scarf at the top of the knot well over to the side, or in the centre below the knot, but as it does not serve to fasten or secure the knot into which the scarf is formed, it offends that canon of good taste which abjures scarf jewelry that does not really or apparently serve some purpose of utility, and which seeks to exclude the scarf pin from all forms of neckwear save those in which the ends or aprons cross each other, as exemplified in long scarfs tied by hand, or in the imitation of them known as the " fiat " scarf . COLLARS, HAT, SHOES, ETC. Only one style of hat is permissible for this occa- sion ; it must be the dress silk hat. The shoes should be of buttoned calf skin, the collar, standing, with either turned points or a Y ojiening, and link cuffs. UNIFORMITY OF COSTUME. The dress described above is usually adopted by the groom, best man, ushers and guests alike. There is seldom any variation from it, although there have- been notable occasions in New York this season at which the groom, or the groom and best man, with the view of presenting some contrast, or of dis- tinguishing them from the rest of the party, have appeared in Prince Alberts and the ushers in cut-a- ways, and again where there was a contrast in the trousers only, as checks in the one case and stripes in the other. THE ORDER OF PROCESSION. The order of procession for a day wedding, whether held in the morning or afternoon, as observed at some of the most stylish events in New York this season, is as follows : The ushers go at the head, in couples. The number varies at different events, but the customary com- plement is four, though eight is not unusual. Fol- DAY W i;i)l)INle alike 52 LAWN TENISIS. for ladies and gentlemen. This explains wLy lawn tennis lias so quicldy come to find the army of its votaries larger than that of any other out-door summer sport. Whenever ladies and gentlemen meet in friendly contest on the field of out-door sport, dress becomes a very important and interesting branch of the sub- ject. In this critical and inventive a^re, it was but natural that a bright and graceful sport like lawn tennis, should attract to itself a correspond- ingly bright and graceful costume. The evolution of lawn tennis costume has finally developed into the almost universal adoption of bright-striped cap and blazer, and white flannel trousers. The blazers worn by the gentlemen of a lawn tennis club, should be patterned in stripes or figures of the club colors. Thus, for example, the colors of the Staten Island Lawn Tennis Club being black, blue and yellow, the stripes of the members' blazers would be alternately of these colors. Whether the stripes are broad or narrow is a matter of indi- vidual taste, but they should always be perpen- dicular. Horizontal stripes are too unpleasantly suggestive of a peculiar stripe of gentlemen with curtailed liberty, which few of us care to emulate or take for our pattern. Innovations there are in the shape of checked or dotted blazers ; but the strii)ed patterns are likely to remain the favorite. For head-dress, the peaked cap, matching the blazer in color, pattern and material, is the more correct for the lawn tennis player, and as such is adopted by the clubs. Individual tastes outside the clubs, however, have embraced several different pat- terns, the more favorite being the well-knoAvn Tam- o'-Shanter and the broad brimmed, cavalierly felt '' tennis hat" of cardinal red. The trosuers should be of white flannel, full length, sufficiently loose to afford free and easy motion, and yet, not so ample as to ajjpear baggy. LAW N I I:N MS. 3'.i 'Pliis sryleof trousers has almost entirely siipercedfd knickerbockers, althoni^h sonie few lag^^anis in tlin rear of i)ro^ress still clin^ to tlie latter. Tliey should be supjK)rte(l by an Kn;j:lish silk tennis belt, or a silk sash— never with susi)en(lcrs The correct tiling Is to have the belt striped and in color to match tho blazer. More latitude in regard to color is allowable with the sash, but a gentleman of taste will always avoid anything startling and conspicuous in belt or sash. Not too much of the tasseled end of the sash should be displayed, but three or four inches hang- ing at the left hip is not in bad taste. The shirt should be of soft French flannel, (f striped pattern, and in color somewhat lighter than the blazer. Some club members have carried their enthusiasm for their colors to the length of wearing shirts to match cap and blazer, the only difference being in the width of the stripes. This, I considei' rather over-doing the matter, and, moreover, spoils all harmony of the costume. The shirt should con- tain a watch-pocket on the right breast and a larger one on the left. It should have a turn-down collar; and a striped muggadore is the proper form of neck- tie. The muggadore should harmonize with the blazer in color, but may ])e of different pattern. As tennis is a summer pastime, the underclothing should be very light. There is nothing better than the netted under-garments of silk or lisle thread, material which admits of free ventilation and is, at the same time, absorptive. Low shoes are always worn in playing tennis. They are made of canvas or soft leather, and j^rovided with rubber soles. Leather soles should never be allowed on a tennis court as they are too hard, and soon gouge and impress the smooth surface to its ruin. The soles must be of some soft, yielding material, either rubber or the new felt soles recently introduced. The "sweater," a heavy, soft wool Jersey, is 54 LAWN TENNIS. sometimes used by professional players, to pull on at the close of a heated game, to avoid catching cold. Like all athletic costumes, the lawn tsnnis dress is allowable at informal club balls and receptions. J-AWX TE>'NIS SUIT. Bicycling. jrM HE popular and growing sport of bicycling •Olil tas now reached the stage where it may prop- %;#. erly be regarded as one of the permanent institutions of the country. As such it be- comes entitled to the intelligent consideration of the public at large, for gathered in its ranks are already some sixty thousand young men of a well-to-do, de- sirable class. Having looked about and decided upon the style of wheel he prefers, the young gentleman who aspires to become a wheelman next turns his atten- tion to the equally important subject of dress. It seems to have been universally accepted that the proper dress for bicycling is knee breeches, short jacket, cap or helmet, ribbed stockings and low shoes. This costume sprang into existence contem- poraneously with the modern bicycle itself, as though, by the eternal fitness of things, it formed, perforce, an integrant part of the centaurish trinity of athlete, costume and wheel. Only in matters of detail, such as color, material, etc., do clubs and individual riders ever venture to display independent preferences, and these are now far less conspicuous than in the earlier stages of the sport. American cyclers have arrived at the sensible and settled conviction that anything in the incYci.iNc}. Tj? nature of theatrical display in tlu.'ir dress is iinlui- coinin.:::. The writer's preference of color and material for a cycling costume lias always been blue ser^e, with stockin;;s and cap to match. I5nt, on the other hand, the Uniform Committee of the League of American Wheelmen have adopted for the regula- tion costume of that organization a snulf-coloretl material which is claimed to be less sensitive to the dust and soil of tlie road tlian blue serge. The choice of color, however, is ]»ureh' a matter of in- dividual taste. Next to the skin the wheelman should always wear under- clothes of silk or wool, or, better still, a material composed of half silk and half wool. The drawers should fit as snugly to the form as a pair of tights, so that any dialing from the saddle may be expended on them instead of on the rider's skin. Another advantage of tight- fitting drawers is that the breeches may then be worn sufficiently loose to avoid the ungraceful, jockey ish suggestion that comes of skintight riding breeches. Breeches should always be made double seated, but the extra seat should always be of the same material as the body of the garment, and never of leather, buckskin or other foreign substance. They should button or buckle snugly just below the knee, and should be sustained by a belt of some solid, in- conspicuous color. A broad belt of brown leather with a neat clasp or nickel buckle makes a very good belt for a wheelman. The only pockets in the breeches should be at the hips, as knife. i)urse, keys, etc., in front pockets are a source of annoyance and irritation when riding on a bicycle. For a coat, the choice is between the well known Norfolk jacket and a plain, semi-military jacket, with a lov,', upright collar. Tli3 jacket should alwaj'^s have the watch pocket placed middling high up on the breast, to avoid the 58 BYCT CLING . annoyance of tlie chain catcliing on the rear corners of the saddle when mounting. The riding-shirt should be of some neat woolen pattern, and provided with small breast pockets. When the coat is habitually worn buttoned up, the best effect about the neck is obtained with a collar- less shirt and a stand-up white collar. This collar should be of zylonite or linene, either of which is equal to the ordinary linen collar in appearance, with the great advantage that they withstand perspiration. For ordinary country touring, where comfort is t!ie first consideration and appearance the second, then the woolen shirt should have a turn-down collar, and neckwear of the sailor-knot pattern be worn. The most becoming head-dress for wheelmen is the semi-military cnp with the drooping, crescent peak. The cap should be of a color to match the uniform. The stockings should be woolen, neatly ribbed, matching the coat and breeches in color, or very nearly so, and fastened with garters out of sight above the knee. To be d' accord the shoes should be of russet leather if the uniform is light, and black if the uniform is dark. With these little niceties of detail attended to, the bicycle uniform is permissible in lieu of the dress suit at nearly all club balls and receptions, like the regimentals of an army officer. Some wheelmen have even appeared at club hops in knee-breeches and swallow-tail coats. Although the wheelman thus arrayed certainly comes very near to Oscar Wilde's ideal, it is thought in very bad taste never- theless; quite as much so, as if an army officer were to appear in dress coat and regimental trousers. It should be either one thing or the other. -:i'^ Oceiin S^^^ni^^i^S * '••""if' '^ ^^^ formerly the custom for a man to wear i^jj: the oldest and shabbiest clothes he could rake ,ii(y^ and scrape together on an ocean voyage; for *0' the reason, probably, that he was sure to replace them by new and cheap English clothes be- fore his return voyage. Within the past two or three years, however, since the epoch of the ocean greyhounds in the way of fast steamers, a marked improvement in the dress of travelers to Europe has been perceptible. And now shabbily dressed men are the exception on board ship. This is all very natural, for the steamers' equip- ment, although by no* means ideal yet, is vastly improved, and men's dress must keep pace with the times even in this direction. The most marked characteristic of men's steamer dress is the almost uniform adoption of the Inverness cape coat, for the overcoat. This, by recent custom, is of a dark shade, is an invisible check pattern, and, set olT with a tennis cloth cap of the same material, the wearer looks at least properly encased. Uis next "layer" of dress may be a Norfollv tourists coat of gray or drab tweed, or Scotch mixed suiting of the same cut of coat with trousers and vest to match. For shoes, light leather base ball shoes CO OCEAlSr STEAMERS. are very generally worn, and these, with a broad scarf of thin silk of dark colors, i3eacock blue, or on that shade, complete a. fitting costume for morning on board. In the afternoon, before dinner, a change is usually made, and the well-dressed man puts on, as he would in town, his dark cutaway coat and vest, and his four-in-hand tie, and he may change his pantaloons to a darker shade if he has the time and the inclination. A dress suit is seldom or never worn on ship-board unless some extraordinary occasion arises. If a gentleman is to take part in a concert or reading on board, be he professional or non-professional, it gives his company and himself a comfortable feeling to distinguish the event, by dressing in his claw- hammer coat and all its accompaniments. Occasionally a formal dinner is given on a steamer, but this is unusual, and it must be a very formal affair to demand as full dress as a similar occasion ashore. As to choice in steamer dress, blue yachting cloth, or blue fiannel, is frequently worn, and there is an approj^riateness about the material and color of these cloths that is especially attractive on ship-board, particularly if it happens to surround a well- formed man with a clear complexion. That a blonde man looks better on ship-board in such a suit, goes without saying, and as to the coat, a Norfolk, or a "reefer " is the correct cut when either of these blue cloths is used. Tweed suits or Scotch cloth suits, with the regulation sack coat, are always in order in the morning for those to whom they are becoming. Shoes for steamer use need not be as heavy-soied for lazy men, but active walkers will find heavy soles less fatiguing than a light welted one. For a steamer outfit, an India rubber gossamer coat, or a double mackintosh is desirable; also, India rubber shoes for wet weather. A steamer-rug, or a heavy blanket shawl is as indisj)ensable as a steamer chair. Then OCKAX STKAMKKS. 01 a neck-niulll«>r, warm and substantial, is worth takin;:^ along "when the breezes blow." Gloves of various kind come in handily, according to the temi^erature, and a rubber covering for the hat is very convenient. In fact, in the way of hats, one shoidd take a cloth tennis caj^ for morning wear, a Derby for afternoon ; a cloth croquet caj), a little thicker than the tennis cap for colder days and India rubber coverings; and if traveling in summer, there are times wh^n a macki- naw straw hat, a Panama, or a manilla, feels about right on a calm day in a blazing sun. In summer, too, on such a day, a complete white duck suit or one of white flannel, ("whites," as the English define such a dress,) looks well and feels as well as it looks, or a black or blue reefer or sack is often worn with white trousers and vest ; or the vest may be dispensed with where a reefer is worn. Then a turban smoking-cap of black silk may be put in the pocket for those votaries of the weed who liaunt the smokers' cabin from morning to night, and grudge even this scanty head-covering in the close and heated atmosphere of this social resort. Noth- ing loud in the way of dress is permissible to a gentlemen on shipboard. A man who puts on a lawn tennis suit is as wide of the mark as if he had donned a Sing Sing convict's dress, and alTects his company in a kindred way. For sensitive men, who take cold readily, wristers are desirable. Flannel yachting shirts are worn with the morning suit in medium weather, and in fact at all times in the morning if found becoming. They are common sense in such a place, and with the loose bow-tied scarf look even more appropriate than the conven- tional white linen-bosomed shirt, which, however, should be worn with the afternoon coat at dinner. As to high silk hats, no returning voyager will be without one, as the street dress is invariably donned by the experienced traveler an hour or s j before landing. ^I'c Hunting. ^^ %^ ox - HUNTING is a sport that is better known r/««jf :| in England than in the United States. Nor llji I is it ever likely to make much headway here, '" ''k for the conditions of American social life are all against its propagation. It has long been con- sidered the most royal of out-door sports, and was always a prerogative of the rich and aristocratic classes of the community. Hunting game on horseback has been a favorite pastime in England from the earliest ages. King Arthur, he of the round table, was an enthusiastic huntsman; the Norman Kings were all "hunting mad." Later on we learn that Queen Elizabeth was a " notable huntress," and still later we lind that the Duke of Wellington was so passionately devoted to the chase that he took a pack of hounds with him on some of his European campaigns. During the Peninsular war, the gallant duke always kept a pack of fox-hounds at his head -quarters, and " chased the fox as vigorously as he did the French." The iH'oper costume for the hunter is the ordinary tall silk hat, scarlet coat, knee breeches and top- boots. The hat must always be provided with a hat guard, a strong silk cord fastened to the hat, and tied at the other end to the peg-loop of the coat. This insures the easy recovery of the hat, if blown III-NTINC. 03 or knocked olT w hen tukiii;^ a lied.i^e or fence, as very frequently happens. Tiift coat should he a hright scarlet cut-a-way of smooth, solid cloth, and lined throughout with Ihinnel of neutral tint and line texture. It should have a turned-down collar of the same material as the hody of the coat, and should he provided with a handkerchief pocket on the left hreast. The lining of the sleeves should terminate in llannel spring culTs that fit tightly around the wrist and exclude wind and dust from thft sl-^eves. The waistcoat is a special feature of the fox- hunter's costume. In the case of clubs, every gentleman rider should wear the same pntterned waistcoat. It should De of some strikingly rich color and material, orange, green or blue silk, checked Kersey, or something of that nature. Every pocket in the waistcoat should have large (laps, and it should b3 lined with chamois leather or flannel. The buttons of both coat and waistcoat should bear the initials or monogram of the club. Un- attached huntsmen, too, should always wear some special figure or monogram on their buttons, a fox- liead, hound-head, or other emblem of the sport. The knee breeches should be made to button fairly tight about the knees, but should be loose every, where else. The material of the breeches may be wliiie-tanned buckskin, cloth buckskin, or white velvet cord, and should be substantially strapped. All breeches should be provided with a continuation about six inches long, and which must be made so as to button closely around the calves. On the side of the knee, just above the boots, the conservative huntsman, who takes pride in following the pre- cedents of the six)rt, should fasten a tiny buckskin bow. The watch should be carried in the breeches fob, where, in case of a cropper, it is less likely to get injured than if carried in a breast pocket. 04 HUISTTIKG. The over-shirt of the fox-hunter should be of French or English wool, but should always be worn with a linen collar. The neckwear should be a neat tie bearing appropriate figures, as fox-heads, dog- lieads, or brushes, and should be embellished with a horseshoe pin. The huntsman must wear top-boots of polished or patent leather, the upper portion of which, however, must be either white, cream-colored or brown. The tops of the boots should reach a point where four knee-buttons of the breeches are left visible, no more, no less. This is one of those little niceties of the fox- hunters' tory conservatism that is not to be lightly ignored, unless one wishes to be considered other than a thoroughbred, than which, for a true hunts- man, there could be no more ignominious dis- tinction. ■ White buckskin gloves are always to be worn, and must fit as perfectly' as society kids. Add to these details, wnip and spur, and the ideal fox-hunter is before us in all his picturesqueness and his fine old crusted conservativeism. ^^>^ <^ C^nooin^. o M'lIILE lawn tennis, cricket, cycling, and, in- ' deed, almost all of the sports now familiar ^^^^y- ' to US, were introduced into America from other lands, cana^ng forms a noteworthy exception. When the pale-faced voyagers discovered America, they, at the same time, discovered, the American canoe and the American canonist. The Indian may therefore very properly claim to be the father of American cananng. In treating of the costume of the cannoist, how- ever, we shall be under the necessity of ignoring to a great extent the noble redskin, but yet, not entirely, as will l)e seen at the end of the chapter. The ideal costume tor the cancinist consists of Xor- folk jacket, knickerbockers. Tarn O'Shanter hat, woolen- stockings and low shoes. The most service- able and ajipropriate color for the jacket and knick- erbockers is a neutral grey; the Tarn O'Shanter and stockings should also be grey, but of a deeper shade. This neutral grey, trimmed neatly with black braid, is the regulation uniform worn by the Mohi- can Canoe Club, one of the most prominent clubs in the country, and is universally conceded to be the best and most serviceable color. The material of the f-ancrist's dress should always be woolen, of flexible, open texture;. as in the exer- bb CANOEING. cise of paddling- elasticity is very necessary, and a close, perspiration confining garb is especially to be avoided. In the matter of nether garments, the distinction between knickerbockers and knee-breeches should not be lightly overlooked. With the canoeist the knee breeches, fitting somewhat tightly about the thighs and knees, is far less suitable than the genu ine knickerbockers, which gives perfectly unre- strained knee action, and, moreover, harmonizes better wdtli the Tarn O'Shanter. The knickerbockers should be supported by a silk tennis sash or kammerbund, that passes twice or more around the waist. Owing to the peculiar atti- tude and movement of the canoeist while paddling, the soft, yielding folds of the silk sash is much better than the somewhat rigid outlines of a belt and buckle. Merino underwear and wool^^n overshirt of some inconspicuous striped pattern, chosen to match har- moniously with the knickerbockers and jacket^ should be worn Everything the canoeist wears, save his necktie and kammerbund, should be of wool, pure and simfJe, owing to his ever jJ^esent liability to get a wetting. Ihe overshirt should have a turn-down collar, and a pocket on the right breast. The watch should never be carried in the breast-pocket of the shirt, because that would expose it to danger when the canoeist is engaged in carrying his craft over a port- age, or lifting it into the club-house. The watch should be carried in a fob in the knickerbockers, and should bts protected against water by a neat, oiled-silk case. The neckwear of the canoeist should be a silk hand- kerchief of some solid, dark color, tied in a neat, ;quare bow. No long ends should be left to flop ibout in the breeze, as they will prove troublesome in handling th^ sail, by getting caught in the lines ( AN()i:iyri)per si/r, may, very appropriately, bo worn in the scarf as a i)in. Shoes of tlie ordinary atldetie ])att,ern sliould 1)0 worn, but always of material that will not be ruiiu'd by getting wet. fcioft, oil-tann»'d russet leather for the uppers, and soles of rubber, are the correct thing. ^lo iron pegs should be allowed in the shoes, for the same obvious reasons. If, aftei: a club meet or regatta, a ball or reception is to take place, the candust must always carry among his stock of extras a pair of patent leather pumps, as his canaMng shoes nro very likely to be wet and stained. With this addition to his regulation canoe costume he may enter the ball room or reception room with impunity. An oilskin suit is always to be numbered among the effects of the cambist, and a rubber bag in which to carry extra clothes. These are stowed away out of sight in the water-tight compartment at the bow of the canoe. Among these extras, also, should be found a good, thick " sweater," to slip on Avhen the canoeist changes from paddling to sailing, if the weather is chilly While the above may be considered the proper costume of the canceist, great latitude is indulged in and freer rein given to individual whims and prefer- erences than in most other branches of sport. In deference to the paint and feathers of their Indian brethren, and the traditions and associations that couple the two together, the canwists, at their meets and regattas, sometimes adopt most fantastic cos- tumes. Some are gotten up as Indians, out and out, feathers, tattooing and mocassins, all complete. Others endeavor to outdo one another in the extrav- agance of their dress and grotesqueness of api)ear- ance in general. 5IiOotin$ ^pl^:, HOOTING game is a practice almost as old •^dl' ^^ ^^® history of man. Nimrod was " a ^^^- mighty hunter before the Lord," and Esau was devoted to the pursuit of game. Whether these ancient followers of the chase were sportsmen, or merely pot-hunters, however, the Old Testament historians have not seen fit to explain. The genuine sportsman has in all ages been a product of civiliza- tion. The ideal pot hunter is always found among the savagest people, and the ideal sportsman among the most civilized. There is little in common between the two, beyond the mere fact that both are intent on killing game. As the shooting season, proper, comes in the coldest and more blustering seasons of the year, the correct dress of the sportsman is of a most substan- tial character. The true sportsman is at all times fully prepared for unpleasant developments in the weather, and he often enjoys better sport on a cold, rainy day than at any other time. Especially is this the case in the popular sport of duck-shooting, or the pursuit of rail and snipe. The sportsman cannot load himself down with extra clothing, consequently that which he does wear must be of a character to resist rain and cold. The best shooting jackets are made of pliant and ■sii(K)Ti\(]. 69 s!n()()tli-lannt'(l do,!i:-skin, or liorso hide, and slioiiM be lined witli (dianiois Itiather or Afackinaw blanket. It should be donblo-lireastcl, the len^'th of an ordi- nary pea-jacket, or, if anytliliii;, a trille shorter, and should be made to fit and button snu.i^ly about the throat. The jacket should be i)lentifidly supyjlied with ])0ckets of various sizes, as many as ten beint^ sometimes exacted of their outfitter by experienced s[)ortsmen. These pockets come in handy for carry- iivj; jack-knife, ^un-cleaninf;^ tools, matches, ci^ld lunch, brandy flask, etc.. and the larger ones at the back, as temporary receptacles for smaller game, such as quail or snijie. A waistcoat of the same material, though some- what lighter, should be. worn, the front of which may be provided with rows of little pouches for the insertion of cartridges. The ideal nether garment of the sportsman is tightish fitting trousers of the same material as the jacket, and should be worn with leather leggings. Knee-breeches, however, are preferred by some, with leggings that meet the breeches in the bend of the. knees. With the trousers, one may wear leggings that come half-way up the thighs, or those that only come up to the knee. In shooting over marsh-land among tall reeds or grass, of course the hii:)-legging3 would be more suitable than the others. In such matters tlie sportsman is always governed by his common sense and conception of the fitness existing between his dress and his surroundings. Whenever the shorter leggings are worn, they may be of stifTer leather than the hip- leggings. Suspenders should never be worn by the sports- man ; the trousers should be sustained by a stout buckskin belt. A cartridge belc is very appropriate, answering at once the double purpose of carrying ajumunition and supporting the trousers. In case the cartridge belt is tvorn beneath the coat, however, and the coat is worn buttoned u^), a few cartridges 70 SHOOTING. slionld always be ready to liand in tlie riglit-liand pocket of tlie coat. The head-gear of the sportsman should be a cap with a double visor; the shorter visor in front shielding the eyes and the larger one protecting the neck from the rain. The material of the cap should be identical with that of the suit. The foot-gear of the sportsman is a very important item. It should be water-tight, high- topped shoes, or, in lieu of shoes and leggings, top boots. The best material is oil-tanned russet leather, heavy but soft, and the soles should be both broad and thick, and always hand-sewed, never nailed or pegged. If shoes are worn the tongue must be sewn to the uppers quite to the top, and must be soft and of ample width, to accommodate itself to the putting on and off of the shoe, and to fold neatly about the instep when the shoe is laced. The top-boots should be provided with lacing at the instep and part-way uj) the sides, so as to unlace for easy pulling on, and then to lace for a snug fit. The under-garments of the sportsman should always be of woolen material, heavy or light, as the conditions of health and weather suggest. The game-bag should be slung with the strap over the right shoulder and the bag resting against the left hip. Beside the pocket it should have an outer addition of twine netting. This net forms an airier receptacle for the accommodation of game in warmer weather when the inner pouch would be too confining. Where lighter material is desired than those advised, the same pattern of garments may be made of corduroy or brown duck. In a warm climate, such as Florida or California, leather gar- ments would be altogether too warm. In this matter the sportsman would, of course, be governed by common sense. I * Funordl^ * -rf.^ N men's dress at funerals, the relation or asso- it»lj: elation of the mourner is to be especially con- J^}^ sidered. In the loss of a near member of one's •'g own family, a "weed" of crape, reaching to within about one inch of the crown of the hat is worn. For a more distant relative the band is made smaller, according to the closeness of the relation- ship. Societies, Grand Army Posts, etc. frequently order that a band of crape shall be worn upon the left arm in token of respect to a dead comrade ; and this mark of bereavement should be worn as stipu- lated by the resolution in the form passed. In the case of societies, the ordinary dress remains unchanged, except upon tlie day of the funeral. Then all members of societies should dress in the uniform, or regalia of the society, if it have such ; or if not, in plain black clothes if possible, wearing black hats and black gloves. Tall silk hats are pre- ferable to Derby s on such an occasion. At a funeral of a prominent lawyer which occurred in December, several societies, of which the deceased was a member, were in attendance. The church was almost a solid mass of men, uniformly dressed and gloved in black. But there was one exception; a well known lawyer, who has also been a physician, from haste in dressing, or from some carelessness, 72 FUNEKALS. liad put on a pair of worn, tan-colored gloves, aad lie stood out against the sombre background of f anereal black like a calcium light. At all funerals, friends attending should, if possi- ble, wear black — a cut-a-way or frock coat, with black diagonal or corkscrew pantaloons, or of a shade bordering on black in tone — and, as indicated, black gloves are indispensable. The best neckwear is a plain, black gros- grain four-in hand tie. If any jewelry is worn, a very small pearl scarf-pin is cor- rect. A gentleman in mourning for one of his family should at all times wear black neckwear in some shape, either a four in- hand, a bow-tie, or a liat scarf; and no gold jewelry whatever. He may wear jet studs, or white porcelain bordered with black. Handkerchiefs, black bordered, are no longer desir- able for gentlemen in mourning. ^•^ Eque5tri