'\ v*'"'/,-^^ O^ Ct,'^ or ^ ,^"1" » ,'^a_ ^^-M^^J^ "''"-■^'^'S A---^- fic o^' %. ^^ V' ^«^ ■^'^^ ,o- "t/> tP ,^^' - ^^ -^ ■0' 0^ -/. ,cXV v^% ^'^^ c ^^• '^z. V^ ^ ^^ .0^ X ^' ^^ ^^. ^' -^K .^^ ^^^x THE WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS THE WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS, OR LIFE AT THE SPRINGS WHgTlll^li^ \i7fl[^©a[F!a Q^, By mark pencil, Esa. NEW-YORK: [PUBLISHED BY SAMUEL COLMAN, VIII ASTOE HOUSE. 1839. ra 0? cr~7 - 3 Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by S. COLMAN, In the Clerk's Office of the District of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York. N E w - Y o R K : Printed by William Molineux, Cor. of Ann and Nassau-st. Jl TO JAMES CALWELL, ESQ. OF GREENBRIAR, THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, BY THE AUTHOR. MESSENGER. Information, it has been said, is generally best received when it comes in a pleasing form. In guidance of this passing idea, this book has been written. It has been estimated, that more than six thousand persons visited the various mineral springs of Western Virginia during the last summer months; and it is not improbable that as many, or more, will repair to them in each coming year. To meet, in a measure, the gene- ral wish so often expressed, for some descriptive guide of the localities and attractions of that celebrated region of country, this volume has been prepared, without pre- tence; but the Author claims one merit for the book, which is faithfulness in description. Road-Side, 1839. CONTENTS. Chap. I. Page Warm Spring Mountain ; Warm Springs ; Hot Springs ; Callaghans -3 Chap. II. White Sulpiiur Springs ; topography of the place - -21 Chap. III. Wliite Sulphur ; Amusements ; early discovery ; Bare- ges, &c. --.---.. 27 Chap. IV. \Aliite Sulphur ; Society ; Pic Nic, &c. - - - 37 X CONTENTS. Chap. V. Page Ride to the Sweet Springs , Sweet Springs - - 45 Chap IV. Deer Hunt at the White Sulphur ; Lewisburg ; Bridge of Sighs, &c. -.-...- 54 Chap. VII. Salt Sulphur; Red Sulphur; Grey Sulphur; Blue Sul- plur; - 60 Chap. Ylll. Autumns in the Mountains, 66 Chap. IX. Journal of a Lady during a season at the Wliite Sul- phur -..76 Chap. X. The Story of a Crutch — Scene Hot Springs, - .119 Chap. XL Beaver-Dam Falls ; Maid of the Cascade, - - 126 CONTENTS. Xi Chap. XII. Page Sketches of Character, .-.-._ jgg Appendix, ._. ^^j THE WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. CHAP. I. TRAVELLING IN THE UNITED STATES — WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN WARM SPRINGS HOT SPRINGS CALLAGHAN's. O tell me not of other skies ! The charms that foreign landscapes wear ; Within our own bright borders rise — Hills and scenes as grand — as fair. Summer in the United States is the season for ' travel, and it is then when all, whom inclination may lead and convenience will permit, are in motion for some quarter where health and recreation are the chief attractions for the journey; or where plea- sure has erected the temple of fashion. Fortu- nately, our dear country is very large, and the places of resort are numerous where every taste can be gra tified ; but, in no section of the Union are all the in- centives to an excursion from home more admirably concentrated than among the mineral springs of Western Virginia, and thither we were bound, like many others in midsummer, determined to make our head-quarters at the White Sulphur. 2 14 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. We had been travelling for two days, from the time we left the landing near Frederickburgh, upon the usual route for travellers from the north, coming from Washington, we had passed by Orange court house, Charlottesville, in sight of Monticello, and through Standton, and had become well initiated into all the modes of Virginia travel and road ac- commodations, of neither of which we had found any cause to complain, but w^hich, on the contrary, had afforded us much reason for being satisfied. We had left the last peaks of the Blue Ridge far behind us, and a few hour's further ride, brought us to the foot of the far-famed Warm Spring Moun- tain, whose frowning tops had been before us for some hours. We here descended from the stage, preferring to make our way on foot ; leaving the driver to follow w^ith his horses at his leisure. As the traveller approaches the mountain, he be- gins to surmise how or in what manner he shall ever be able to surmount this broad barrier of the Alle- gany, which rises up before him to dispute his pas- sage. The ascent to the top is about two miles, over a narrow, well-beaten road, which, rising gra- dually, edges around the body of the mountain like a great winding stairway. It w^as early in the morn- ing, the sun had but just risen, and, with elastic steps, we commenced the ascent; stopping ever and anon to admire the verdant glories which broke upon us in WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN. 15 some new scene at every turn. The road on one hand was studded with lofty trees, overlooking the precipices below, w^hilst copsewood and numerous masses of ill-shapen stone on the other hung over our heads, threatening to stop our progress at every moment. The dew was still upon the green leaves, and we inhaled the freshness of the abundant and luxuriant wild flow^ers blooming along our path. Among our party, in advance of the rest, were two foreigners; an English baronet from Bermuda, and the Chevalier L , a resident minister in the United States. The chevalier had been over the hills of Tyrol, and among the dofrafiels of Norway, and his heart expanded as he described to us the similarity of the picturesque scenery we were now traversing to the romantic beauties of the faderland. We reached the point where the road crosses the summit, called the mountain-pass, and paused awhile to take a survey of the prospect we had left behind us. A cool refreshing breeze sprang up to meet us, and water from the hands of the old man at the mountain hut gave us new life and vigor : we were directed to a path which led to a higher eminence, where the finest view it was supposed could be had of the surrounding scenery. We stood upon a rock, where a white flag was waving. It overlooked every thing within range 16 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. of several niiles. We looked on for some moments in silence, not even whispering onr admiration. Beneath us, as far as the eye could reach, a vast ampliitheatre of hills were rising one above the other, looking, in then- uneven siu'face, like the dashing waves of a troubled sea in their fmy. We fancied we could hear the roaring of the distant waters. And then again we saw the blue heavens seemingly resting upon the long-continued ranges of the same line where we stood. It looked to us — the abyss below — like a great crater formed by some revolu- tion of nature, into wliich moimtain on momitain had been thrown by some supernatural power to fill up tlie great chasm of earth. The hour, and the day, (it was Sunday.) filled us with great reverence for all things around us. There was no water view, which makes the Ufe of seaboard landscapes, but all was reposing in silent solemn grandeur as it had been for unnmiibered ages. Who has ever been among these moimtains and given theii' picture to the world ? Save in the stray leaf of some travellers portfolio, they have never been written down. This is the land where our poets and our artists should come, and see the ma- jestyof nature as it is in our own soil. What would have been the imaginings of the im- passioned Roscoe at a scene like this. With what eloquence he could have pictured it ! WARM SPRING MOUNTAIN. 17 Where is that master-spirit of our own age, whose wand w^aved over the ruins of the Alhambra and brought forth its buried images of romance ? Has he never been here? to change those towering piles of blackest rock, now shading all around us, into castles and fortresses, and people this solitude with his giants, and his knights, and his sceptred visions of antiquity ! Far below us, on one hand, we descried, in the narrow streak like a w^hite pencil-mark, the winding road by which we had ascended. At our feet, on the other side, v^ere the shining roofs of the cabins and bath-houses at the Warm Springs, where we were to remain a short while and revel, if we pleased, in the most luxurious of baths. The sound of the horn called us again to the stage ; and we were whirled down the steep to the base of the mountain with incredible velocity. The drivers of the stages in this part of the country (mostly young men) are very active and expert, and will wind a six-horse team round the shortest curves of the mountains w^th the same skill and ease as a Broadway whip will turn a phaeton. " A merry welcome to you, gentlemen," said the pleasant landlord, as we reined up before the door of the hotel at the Warm Springs, where a fine breakfast was waiting for us. And then we did 2* 28 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. justice to Mr. Fry in every shape: we made our respects to the fried venison, the fried fish, and the fried chicken; so very poUte had the morning air made us. On each plate at table v^as a card, with the visi- ter's name — but a beginning of the novelties of this region to some of us. We were weighed in the patent scale that stands in the colonnade, which runs the whole length of the main building here, somewhat after the fashion of the hotels at Sara- toga. A drawing room and ball-room are on the same floor with the dining-room. This place is chiefly celebrated for its delightful warm bath, and its waters are very efficacious for chronic diseases. The company here is the largest late in the season, when the visiters are returning from the other springs. We went to the bath. Luxury of all luxuries ! It is worth a pilgrimage of many miles to bathe in this delightful stream. The bath, over which is a wooden building in the form of an octagon, is about forty feet in diameter, large enough for fifty persons at a time ; the water rises from the bottom to the depth of five feet, in a warm state of about 97 de- grees Farenheit; but it has that peculiar tempera- ture which no other water, by artificial means, can be made exactly to attain. The sensations while WARM SPRINGS. 19 bathing are most delicious ; the water is so soft, and it plays in a most affectionate manner against the body, if I may use the expression. All the most glowing descriptions which have been given of the baths of Constantinople, and elsewhere, fall short in comparison with the actual enjoyment of a bath here ; which is sufficient to dispel the most obstinate disease of ennui or hypo. Some persons have fanciful notions as to their mode of entering a bath, and their manner of equip- ment. One young gentleman from the north, who had been here before, had a complete dress made after his own order — a loose gown to throw on and throw^ off, Turkish slippers, and ornamental cap, &c. He said it was more in keeping with the spirit of the ancients, for whose customs he had great re- spect. The spring where invalids go to drink the water, w^hich bubbles up from a little square rustic basin, is in the grove, not far from the bath-house, and covered by a little shed. The Vv^ator is too warm to be pleasant to persons in the flush of health; but it is said to act well on the system. Several little fountains of the same description are oozing up around about. It was here in the shade of these elms, that the sage of Monticello 20 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. was wont to spend so much of his time ; and the cabin is near by which he long occupied. A party were playing at nine-pins, on the green, the principal amusement here, (besides bathing;) and others were diverting themselves with quoits. We left the Warm Springs, intending to return again, at some day, on our way homeward. This is the place where the company meet on the wind- ing up of the season ; friendships, begun elsewhere, are here cemented ; promises to write are made ; and - maidens here take leave of their lovers. There are many bright recollections about the Warm Springs. Six miles beyond the Warm, we came to the Hot Springs. " I will get out here," says the invalid. "I will leave this place as quickly as posssible," says the man of pleasure, " for I will not look at the halt and the lame. " These springs are much celebrated for their hot baths, so beneficial for persons far gone in strength, and deeply affected with rheumatic affections, con- tusions, broken limbs, &c. Many w^onderful cures are performed here. The days of many a poor man have been lengthened, if not made happier, by re- covery. I saw a United States Senator who had left Wash- ington a few weeks before in a very low state of health ; he was now convalescent, and able to bear the fatigues of a journey home to the South. MOT SPRING. ^1 The piazzas of the hotels were filled with inva- lids, like those in front of a marine hospital I have somewhere seen. Some were limping; some were on crutches ; and some were wheeled about like children. At a little distance, walking in the shade of the trees, we observed a very infirm old gentleman on the arm of a young lady; some faithful daughter, we imagined, tending on an aged parent. There are several baths here of different temper- atures — the spout-bath, the boiler, and the pleasure- bath. The proprietor, a physician, is said to be a hu- mane and attentive person, and is making extensive improvements each year. We stopped once more on our road, at Calla- ghan's, a great breakfasting house, thirteen miles this side of the White Sulphur, at the interjunction of several mail routes. We were here very hospi- tably entertained by the facetious and obliging host, who never differs in opinion with his guests on any subject that's not fa?x. Dennis Callaghan, the father of the present proprietor, was immortalized by the author of Westward Ho ! long since. **0n what side of the question are you, Mr. Calla- ghan!" said one of us to him at parting. 22 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. «* Why, sir," said he, " I don't like to diifer — Fm sure we don't — but how do you stand ? " "Why," said my friend, "I am Van Buren — Anti-Sub-treasury — Administration — Ultra- Whig." "Well," said he, "Mr. Stranger, I am exactly where you are." In a few hours more, we came within the precincts of the White Sulphur. 23 CHAP. 11. THE WHITE SULPHUR TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PLACE. The white Sulphur Spring is in the county of Green- briar, western Virginia, embosomed in a beautiful valley, where the mountains recede on a sudden, forming at first an irregular opening, which at a little distance widens into an extensive plain. The main road runs directly through the valley, passing on one side the enclosure containing the spring anc^ the principal improvements ; then crossing the Ioujl meadows and finally losing itself in the shade of the mountain at the farther end. When we arrived at the springs, the company were going to dinner, and all the walks and avenues leading from the diflferent cabins were streaming with lively forms. A band of music was playing gaily in the portico of the dining hall ; and the whole face of things had the look of enchantment. It seem- ed to us travellers, arriving at such a time, as if the inhabitants of some fairy isle were turning out to welcome the coming of expected strangers. 24 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. Our coach door was opened by Major Anderson, who assigned to us our respective quarters. The la- dies of the party were escorted to Paradise Row, and the single gentlemen were sent some to Spring Row and others to Wolf Row, which latter place is re- served for bachelors, amateurs and philosophers. The grounds are laid out very prettily with gra- vel walks intersecting the green lawns, and the area is bordered on all sides by rows of neat cabins, some of them of a very attractive appearance. The whole looks like a well laid out little town. A countryman from the west, not long since, in passing by the springs late in October, when the place was quite deserted, was heard to remark, that he saw a great many houses in the village, but very few people. On the front square stands a large frame building containing the dining room, the public room, and the offices. A portico runs the whole length of this edi- fice, forming a fine promenade in wet weather. Near to this in a similar building is the ball room, with lodging apartments above. Immediately in front of these, on the acclivity of the hill, which overlooks the plain, and sweeping round before you, is Alabama Row, w^hich extends as far as the large centre building, where it is joined by Paradise Row, which has a similar range. The cabins which form these ranges are all built of brick, WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 25 with little piazzas in front. Carolina Row, fronts the walk, from the spring, beyond which are, Balti- more — Virginia — and Georgia Rows. There are besides many beautiful cabins on various parts of the premises, wliich are reserved for private fami- lies, who spend their summers here. A new row of six ornamental veranda cottages has lately been erected on a line with Paradise Row, and four large brick buildings on the hill beyond, the latter being occupied by Carolineans. The ac- commodations are at present sufficient for six hun- dred persons. A large hotel is about being erected in the course of another year, which will accommo- date several hundred more. At present each fami- ly or party reside in a separate cabin, being lords of their own castles for the time being, which is per- haps the most preferable mode of living. The noble fountain is immediatel}^ in front of Spring Row, and can be seen from any part of the square. It is ornamented by a handsome dome, supported by twelve pillars, which is surmounted by a statue representing Hygeia. There are circular seats beneath, and the area is roomy enough for near one hundred persons seated and standing. The water flows in an octagonical basin about three feet, and a half in depth, and gushes from an aperture in the wliite rocks, which line the sides of 3 26 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. the reservoir. It sparkles in the glass like liquid crystal, and it gives the frame of the invalid new vigor at every draught. It has a very strong smell of sulphur, and at first is not so pleasant to the taste, but after a few days this is not perceptible by the visitor, and he becomes very fond of it, desiring no other beverage. It cures almost every disease ; for affections of the liver — and for dyspepsia of whatever kind, it is peculiarly recommended. It produces the most enviable ap- petites — brings colour to the cheek — exhilirates the spirits, and lengthens life. The stream from the spring is very copious, and supplies the bath houses in the immediate vicinity. The old bath house has been removed within the last year, anrl a Inrge and improved one, wdth dress- ing rooms and other conveniences, has been erected on the same site. Thus much for the topography of the White Sul- phur; w^e will leave the reader at the spring, pro- mising to chronicle in coming chapters, the amuse- ments and pleasures of this delightful place. 27 CHAP. III. WHITE SULPHUR AMUSEMENTS FIRST WHITE SETTLER- BAREGES, &C. &C. The season at the White Sulphur commences early in June; the most fashionable period is from the middle of July, till the second week in September, and during the month of August the gaiety is at its height. It was now late in July, and the place was throng- ing with visitors; numbers daily not being able to gain admittance, were obliged to quarter in the neighbourhood, or turn off to some of the. other springs, and there remain until they could be accom- modated. The amusements here are various, and the days go by very rapidly to those who are determined to enjoy themselves. In the morning before breakfast, the spring is the first resort, by all who w^sh to drink the waters and exchange the salutations of the day. This is an ex- citing time, and for one hour, the whole area around 28 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. the spring is crowded with the old, the young, the gay, and the invahd. At eight o'clock comes breakfast, w^hen the tables are plentifully supplied with the best bread ever baked, and all the other necessaries to anticipate the finest appetites. After breakfast, the company disperse in various ways — some to their cabins, to prepare for visitors, and for visiting — some to the drawing-room for mu- sic — some ride on horseback — some walk — parties are arranged for a dinner at Crow's — a pic-nic on theGreenbriar,or an excursion to Lewisburg. There is a very good store, where every thmg can be bought — and many go shopping. Gentlemen w^ho have nothing else to do, amuse themselves at w^hist — some play billiards — others exercise at nine pins, or wdth the gymnasium — and the hunters prepare for a chase, and so passes the day until dinner time, all having made another visit to the spring at twelve o'clock, wiiich is called the lounging hour. For the half hour preceding dinner, the band of music is per- forming in the portico. Dinner — this is an important period to a great many, the twenty sheep and beef slaughtered . for that day are demolished with great sang froid, and a feed servant will place before you a fried chicken or some other dainty dish, which you will find very AMUSEMENTS, 29 acceptable after six hours abstinence, particulary if you have been down to the spring. There are twelve tables, each large enough for fifty persons or more, on a squeeze, and all the plates being labelled, there is no confusion in coming to dinner about finding your place. There is no ne- cessity for being in a hurry, or getting into a pas- sion — a little patience, and you will not fail to be satisfied. The desert is abundant and very good, and but for the hurry and flurry of the servants, you get through this meal very good humouredly. Little or no wine is drunk at dinner, one of the beneficial re- sults of the water, and a very conclusive one. After dinner, the ladies generally repair to the drawing- room, where an hour or two is wliiled av/ay in conversation and music: there are always a great many ladies here who perform well, and th's is one of the pleasantest hours of the day. Many who like the Spanish fasliion, sleep an hour or two, after din- ner — then at five o'clock, the equipages are brought out for those who may have them and like an even- ing drive, on the sweet spring road, or to the Green- briar bridge. A third general visiting is made to the spring during the evening, and from then until tea time, and till twilight, the whole grounds are in- terspersed with company, promenading, laughing, 3* 30 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. chatting, and many anticipating the coming plea- sures of the ball. The ball room is open every evening on week days, for a dance. It is a neat and appropriate room, and has been much enlarged of late. It is lighted by three handsome chandeliers, with a fine orchestra in the centre, and the music, a Baltimore band, is very fine. A piano is also part of the fur- niture, this is made the drawing-room during the day. After a great deal of dancing and waltzing, the company generally break up by eleven o'clock, and so ends a day at the White Sulphur. On rainy days, ladies can have their m.eals fur- nished them very comfortably in their own cabms, though many of them prefer to come trippingly to the dining hall. Sunday is religiously observed here; divine ser- vice is performed, and the attendance on such occa- sions is always large and respectable. I joined the venerable proprietor of the Springs in one of his customary morning walks over the estate : a gentleman of the old school, and one whose urbane manner and kindness of heart, have gained him the respect and esteem of all who make his acquaintance. We walked through several large cultivated fields, some filled with vegetables, of which a great supply is requisite here, and others FIRST SETTLER. 31 were waving with ripening corn and wheat. Pass- ing through several green meadows more than a mile in length, we came round by the stabling es- tablishment, where over four hundred horses were well provided for. In an adjoining field were seve- ral blooded colts, and cattle of the Durham breed — the latter a present from Mr. Clay. The meadows and grounds are watered by many streams, and several sulphur springs rise in various parts of the land. Mountains extend all around, forming a fine defence asjainst the storms and snows of winter ; and abound in deer, pheasants and other game. The first white settler in this part of the country, was a crazy man, who wandering from some of the lower counties, here fixed his abode in one of the rocky glens on Howard's Creek. The Indians hav- ing a superstitious dread of persons in his situation, were afraid to molest him, and even frequently sup- plied him wdth food. In the course of time other adventurers came — the Indians were driven off*, and the country in the adjoining counties has been rapidly settling ever since. The valuable qualities of the waters of the White Sulphur Springs, first became known about twenty- five years ago, and its celebrity has been increasing ever since, until it has become a resort for persons from all parts of the world. Its beneficial qualities 32 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. are undeniably good for persons in all conditions of health. A Spanish gentleman who was here during the past summer, and who had travelled a great deal, and visited all the springs on the continent and in Germany, gave these waters the preference over all others. The notice of persons was first attracted to this spring by the quantities of deer wliich came to drink at the licks round about, formed by the over- flowing of the waters from the spring, which have since been drained off. The discovery of the celebrated Springs of Bare- ges, among the Pyrenees, is attributed to a sheep, which was observed to stray from its flock, and di- rect its course towards them; when the people of the country soon became acquainted wath their efii- cacy. An English writer thus speaks of these springs, whose waters are said in many respects to be analagous to those of the White Sulphur: "Bareges was not much frequented until Mad- ame de Maintenon being at Bagneres, on account of the health of the young Duke de Maine, and hearing of Bareges, took the Duke tliither. Since that, they have been greatly resorted to by invalids from all parts, especially by w^ounded military men. BAREGES. 33 " The water is perfectly clear, and does not taste strongly of sulphur, but the smell is very decided. It is mineralized principally by the sulphuret of so- dium, but also contains carbonate of soda, a small quantity of sulphate and muriate of soda, azote, sul- pheretted hydrogen and glairine or animal matter. Taken internally, it often produces, like other sul- phurous waters, a degree of excitation, marked by acceleration of the pulse, perspiration more or less abundant, increased appetite, and sometimes sleep- lessness. It is not in general purgative, and even sometimes induces constipation, particularly when exclusively used for bathing — but is diuretic, dia- phoretic and expectorant. By its local or general stimulating properties, it cleanses foul ulcers, les- sens the induration of callous and fistulous sores — promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone and cicatrization. It is also highly efficacious in allaying bony pains, whether of a rheumatic nature, or arising from the wounds — ^in remedying the stiiT- ness and immobility of joints, when these symptoms depend upon tumefaction of the soft parts — in hem- orrhoidal affections, jaundice and chronic disorders, and especially long standing dysentery — in chronic syphilitic diseases, and those resulting from the use of mercury, dyspepsia, &c. The season begins on the first of June, and terminates in September." o^ 34 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. A young officer of the army, now stationed at Washington, remained the whole of the last season among the springs, the most of which time was spent at the White Sulphur, whither he had gone in a very feeble state of health, scarcely having the use of his Hmbs, and no one would now recognize the pale suffering invalid of that day, in liis present flushed appearance and stout manly form. The temperature of the White Sulphur water is 60 degrees Farenheit, and is the same during win- ter and summer. It is composed of the following inorredients : Sulphate of Soda. Sulphate of lime. Sulphate of magnesia. Carbonate of lime. Carbonate of magnesia. Chloride of Sodium. Chloride of Calcium. Pa. Oxyde of Iron. Sulp. Hydn. of Sodium. Phosphate of lime. .Organic matter. Precipitated sulphur. Gases. Sulph. Hydrogen. Carbonic acid. Nitrogen. Oxygen. WHITE SULPHUR. 35 Such a place as the White Sulphur so well fash- ioned and provided for by nature, cannot fail to be- come, in a very few years, the resort of thousands of persons, in search of health, and the head quar- ters of fashion, when the first people of the land will gather from all quarters, and meet to reciprocate mutual good feelings. In less than forty months from the present time, it may be predicted, a rail- road will sweep by, wdthin a short distance of the Warm Spring Mountain, and the inhabitants of Union, will find it but three days travel to New York, which less than twenty years since, was the journey of a month. The receipts at these springs are now very large, but the expenses are great. A considerable amount is annually appropriated for improvements, and by the summer of 1840, when the projected ones shall be completed, there will be accommodations for more than twelve hundred persons. ^ There is one great comfort here, in the good bed- ding and clean white sheets, not always to be had at watering places. The cabins are neat, small, but comfortable, generally having two rooms, many of them four. Do you want accommodations for some of your friends about to arrive, you call that stout active little man whom you see brushing across the plain 36 WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. in such a hurry. He is always engaged, but ever at your service. Discarding the use of pencil or pa- per, he has figured in his head the names and num- ber of the occupants in every cabin, their size and condition. He can tell you, who is coming, at what time they will arrive, and when tliey will start. He is the person who assigns the visitors to their respective quarters. He is, for the time being, the chief ruler and prime minister of the interior. They call him the Metternich of the Mountains. Crichton and Willard have both had their day, and Anderson is now in the full tide of his fame. The White Sulphur Hotel, is within a few hun- dred yards of the springs, where accomjuodations can be had for over one hundred persons ; it is ge- nerally filled during the crow^ded season, and is open during the year when the other establishment is closed. The proprietor is an attentive and gentle- manly person, and takes good care of his guests. 87 CHAP. IV. WHITE SULPHUR SOCIETY PIC NIC. It is advisable for all who come to the spiings, to remain any time, to bring with them some amusing and entertaining books ; they will find them very pleasant companions of a dull hour, during the heat of the day, and in rainy weather. The essays of Charles Lamb, is an admirable book for a watering place, many of his happiest thoughts being here illustrated. It is now the middle of August, and the White Sulphur and the whole neighbourhood is thronging with company. There is life in every breeze, and a continual hum of joy and merriment pervading the place. You are seated in front of your cabin in Carolina. row, with the whole panorama of passing events be- fore you. You hear the strunning of many guitar3, and the sound of flutes from various quarters — you listen again, to the screaming of some happy cliild- 4 88 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. ren, chasing a young fawn over the green ; hino- cence sporting with nature — see the young creature, he has outstripped his pursuers, and has stopped for a moment to strain his wild eyes in a longing look at his native hills ; but they are after him again. Yonder comes the cake-man, the children's friend ; he is punctual to the hour, and is expected daily by the inhabitants of every row ; there is music in the creaking of his tray to many .After him, in import- ance, in the same line, is that little boy with the straw hat, he brings the sugar maple from the moun- tains, and from near the sweet springs. There is a man with an armful of branches and cedar from the woods — he has laid them down before a cabin in Virginia row, and they are now decorating the piaz- za, bidding defiance to the hottest sun. The benches under the large shady elms in the grove, are filled with gentlemen talking politics, and discussing com- ing elections — comparing great men — or telling anecdotes — there is much to be learned at this place. There was one gentleman here — one of the great men of our country, who had been a senator, and governor of his native state ; morning and evening wherever he would take his seat, a large number would gather around him, young and old, and talent and genius would listen in silence, while in the most fascinating manner, he would discuss tlie first prin- PASSINGEVKNTS. 39 ciples of government, law, society, politics and cha- racter, and his frequent flashes of wit, would make the whole area ring with delight. There is an arrival. It must be a family from the south, from the extent of the train, and the number of horses and vehicles. First comes the baggage wagon— then a young gentleman on horseback — then follows the diligence, containing the children — nurses — and bandboxes — after that comes a close carriage, with the ladies of the family — then the gen- tleman liimself riding after — and the calvacade is brought up by several other vehicles and servants, as outriders. The opening of the mail — a scramble for letters and papers — expectation on tiptoe fcr the news — arrival of the Great Western — fourteen days from Liverpool — coronation of Queen Victoria — Wash- ington deserted — President at the springs, and the citizens at Piney Point. A lady is standing in her cabin door, a gentleman approaches, and holds up a letter bearing her ad- dress, her eye sparkles with joy, she runs to meet it — and retires, forgetting pleasure and gaiety for awhile, to read a few lines "from some one at home." The better affections of the heart, and many of the softer passions of our nature are called into play, on the receipt of a letter from home, in a strange place. 40 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. There are several resident physicians here ; also transient artists — dentists — and phrenologists — and a corn-doctor's card, has been posted up for several days. We have two or three itinerant jew^ellers also — they have been displaying their finery and tinsel spread out in the square, and their tables have been surrounded all day with nurses and cliildren, and all w^ho can satisfy themselves, with gilt ear or- naments and fino^er rin;]js. The president of the United States is here, and many other distinguished persons. Ladies of fasliion and belles from the principal cities — foreign min- isters — members of the cabinet, senators — and re- presentatives, prominent judges — officers of the army and navy, and polished private gentlemen, all combining to make the present company, as elegant and select as any party ever assembled at a water- ing place. There is great attraction at the ball-room at pre- sent, and it is brilliantly attended every evening by the light and gay hearted. Dignity, and power* and beauty, and grace, and wat, make up the com- pany, mingling their qualities and their fascinations. The afternoons now are very fine for w^alks — there are several very pretty ones, in and around the neighbourhood — parties and couples are straying in the beautiful paths of the mastin wood, in the SOCIETY. 41 rear of the hotel, and some are extending their steps as far as Lover's Retreat, a romantic spot, in the same direction. On that part of the sweet spring road which winds around by the Colonade, is another very pretty walk, with a fine prospect from the brow of the hill. Piu'suing this path, stepping over little rivulets which meander through the glades of this beautiful country, you come to a little white cottage where small parties of ladies and gentlemen are refreshing themselves wdth ice-cream and niceties that even Henrion would approve of If each individual in the society at a place like tliis, where it is generally so very good, would only feel convinced how much his efforts, however small, might contribute to the general pleasure — and if all would recollect that they are strangers on the same ground, equally ent'tled to each other's notice and attention, as sojourners from home, without refer- ence to their time of arrival — there would be more frequent intercourse of an agreeable and intimate nature among various persons, and the comfort and enjoyment of each would be mutually promoted. The general interchange of civilities exist to a greater degree among the company at these springs than atthose of the North; which doubtless results from the isolated position of the former, the ma- 4* 42 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. jority of southern people who attend them, and the natural propensity of independent persons who re- main together any length of time to be sociable. In the course of a few years, the tide of travel and fashion will flow this way, and it is to be hoped that neither parvenu pride nor unnecessary etiquette will destroy the social beauties of the old regime. Not that there is much fear of it at present. This is the hour for drives and excursions. You meet carriages and — (when is a carriage not a car- riage? why, when it 's a wagon, to be sure, says some one at my elbow; — vehicles of all descrip- tions, returning from pic nics — and going out with those desirous to meet the evening stages, to wel- come friends in advance, and to kiss hands to some lady passenger they may know in passing, and bring home wild flowers. You never thoroughly understand the pliilosophy of the word pic nic, until you come here. Ask a lady who has spent a summer at the White Sulphur to tell you. We had something of the kind a few^ days since at the Greenbriar, about five miles from the springs, but there were no ladies present — it was altogother a gentleman's affair. It originated with tlie dele- gate from Florida, and some others, who invited the company to the number of nearly a hundred, among whom were the President, the Secretary of AMUSEMENTS. 43 War, and many distinguished members of Congress and others. The party had all assembled before two o'clock at the brick tavern at the bridge. Parties on pi< nic excursions generally carry their own delicacies and baskets, but this was to be an uncommon affair We found every thing amply provided for us, as it were by invisible hands. Invisible hands had got ready the most tempting and cooling beverages for the dusty, thirsty guests, (it was a very dusty day) and invisible hands had prepared, under a large green arbor at the foot of the mountain, a most magnificent entertainment. And then with myrtle leaves for a canopy over our devoted heads, we all sat down with smiling faces to do justice to the delicacies spread before us. We had all the luxuries of the mountains, the farm-yard, and the streams. The noisy servants at our backs were duelling with champagne corks all the time, and the table was sparkling with wine and wit. At this stage of the proceedings, there was a sud- den cessation of knives and forks for a moment, the band striking up a well-known lively air, and all eyes were turned towards the host, who appeared leading in a sorry-looking gentleman who had just arx'ived. He had come late, and gave as his excuse 44 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. that the ladies at the springs finding themselves deserted by the beaux, had seized on him, and he had just made his escape from paradise row, and covered with dust and glory, had come to join our party. We were regaled with a fine refresliing breeze from the moimtain during the whole time, and the day w^ent by most agreeably. We all came home at seven o'clock in the even- ing, passing through the enchanting vallies, and arrived in time to meet the ladies in the ball-room, and give an account of our absence during the day. 45 CHAP. V. RIDE TO THE SWEET SPRINGS SWEET SPRINGS. One fTne racy morning, before sunrise, throwing our cloaks over our shoulders, we rolled off in an open carriage id make a visit to the Sweet Springs, and enjoy the ride before breakfast. We left the White Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Parad'.se row were stirring, and in a little wliile, our dapples were winding then' way through some of the finest scene- ry, romance or poetry had ever pictured. Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have been carved through the mountains, like the pass of mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, and afar for miles in front, we had a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Oc- casionally in coming to a turn in the road, some new wonder would open before us. At one time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade of some hundred feet in height. And again where the road was more narrow, we passed under natural arbors, formed by the meeting of the tops of tha 46 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. bending trees from each side of the way, and where the laurel was twining its ow^n garlands on the branches. My companion, Major V , had brought witli him a copy of Childe Harold, which was opened, and the finest passages sought out. He soon closed the book again, however, saying as we both thought^ that w^e had poetry enough around us. A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, wdth a fine relish for breakfast, or any thing else that might be offered us. This is the place, where so many excursions are made from the springs, for dinner parties and pic- nics. The tavern stands on the corner of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the sign board swings out in front, after the manner of that of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of the neighbourhood. We entered the white pailings through a w^icket gate, and were met on the piazza by Mr. Crow, quite portly, and good natured in appearance, somewhat of a politician, besides being a colonel. He promised us all we required, and brought us a frozen imperial to refresh us. There is not a tavern keeper, or a stage owner, in all Western Virginia — or a great wood chopper who SCENERY. 47 has not some military title — General, is very high — only the real militia men take that — Colonel predo- minates — and any one who kills a rattlesnake is made a major on the spot. We here met the President who had rode over on horseback accompanied by one of his sons, to breakfast. Several travellers in the house, on learn- ing that he was the chief magistrate, came in and made themselves known to him and were courte- ously received. Chateaubriand, in describing Ir's visit to the first president of the United States, remarks on the sim- pleness of his retired manner — and the plainness of every thing around him, and wonders how long such beauties of republicanism will last. We fell into a similar train of thought for a mo- ment, and were consoled with the grateful reflection, that the purity of our institutions, in one particular at least, had existed, for half a century. For here was the eighth president of the United States, after the lapse of nearly fifty years since the time mentioned by the great French writer, travel- ling in a wild part of the country, several hundred miles from the seat of government, without retinue, or even an attendant. Colonel Crow, has a large garden attached to his establishment, where we gathered a bouquet of jes- samines and went on to the Sweet 48 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. We left the picturesque behind us, and for tlie next six miles of our journey, we passed through a more cultivated country, with many large fields of waving wheat tops and corn blade. Witliin a mile or tw^o of the sweet, we came to w^hat is called the Red Spring, an old delapidated building, grey with age, and all its windows shattered. A young coun- tiy boy was swinging on the broken gate which led to the house from the road, and in reply to our ques- tion as to who lived there, he told us with an arch look, that it w^as haunted; and scampered off, leav- ing us much to marvel, with our curiosity excited. Mr. Paulding says in his letters from the South, written twenty years since, that the boys in. this re- gion are all born poets, but that they run about in the sun, without hats, and have their brains dried up. Before twelve o'clock, we entered the smiling valley of the Sweet Springs. As we passed to our lodgment, in the direction of the bath house, we heard the merry voices of the bathers, enjoying themselves at their usual hour. We made our first appearance at dinner, w^here over two hundred persons were struggling for elbow room at two tables only large enough for half that number. We were so fortunate as to be seated near a celebrated caterer, who having a dozen ser- vants in his pay, he w^as liberal enough to ^pply SWEETSPRINGS. 49 all his friends in his vicinity. We had air durinf^ dinner, from the many fans suspended above, and which vrere kept constantly in motion. Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place is redolent with life and animation, particularly at a time when thronging with company. You enter on your arrival into a large green area, having on each s:*de rows of white rustic-looking cottages, and directly before you at the further end is a green hill of a most ' peculiar diadem.' Many little cabins of brick and frame work are scattered in various parts of the grounds. The spring is under the piazza of the bath house, the water rises in a cylindrical reserv^oir. It is sparkling and exhilirating, and has a piquant acidu- lous taste, something like soda water which has been left standing. The temperature of the water is 73 degrees Fa.renheit, and contains sulphate of magne- sia, muriate of soda, and sulphate of soda, carbo- nate of magnesia, carbonate of hme, with traces of iron and silaceous matter, free carbonic acid, bi-carbonate of soda, and carbonic acid gas, the excess of the carbonic acid, gives the waters a great briskness. 5 50 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. The stream is very copious and supplies the two extensive baths in the adjoining building, which are reserved for the different sexes. The gentleman's bath is in a quadrangular form of five feet in depth, and surrounded by a wall wdth an opening at the top ; the water is continually flowing off. Upon first entering the bath, you receive a slight shock ; and in another moment, the most dehghtful sensations come over you. The water is soft and mictions to the body, and it stimulates powerfully the action of the skin, being of a tonic nature, improving its functions, and exciting the activity of the absorbent system. The carbonic acid gas is seen bubbling up, in little globules, on the surface of the water. We were recommended not to remain in the bath longer than three minutes at first ; but we heard of two persons, the day before, having remained in the other bath over an hour. At some of the baths in Switzerland, which have not a very high tempera- ture, the patients pass six or eight hours a day in the water. Bathing has become a science, and many treatises have been written on the subject. For those who would enlarge and extend such information, the waters of the springs of this region will afford them the best opportunities of judging, both by practical experiments of their efhcacy, and from observation of the various effects upon different systems. S W E E T S P R I N G S . 51 We conversed with Jean DeLorme, the old bath- keeper, who has been standing here, with a napkin on each arm, for the last forty years. " Peregrine Prolix" has given his history in full, so we were pre- pared for the antiquated guardian of the bath. The Sweet Springs are among the most ancient and celebrated w^atering places in the United States, and it is only surprising, that until very lately, so few improvements have been made in the buildings. A large and handsome hotel is now erecting, which will be ready for the reception of guests in the sum- mer of 1839, and the accommodations will then be sufficient for four hundred persons. Tliis has been long wanting, for the cottages are mostly old and dilapidated, each containing two small rooms The bar room of the present day, was once the theatre of quite a different display. The county court w^as formerly held in that room, where Patrick Henry, and other great men of Virginia, have been heard to thimder their eloquence. There is a continual flow and ebb of company here during the summer, and it is only in the latter part of August, and the first few weeks in Septem- ber, that the place is much crowded, when persons, with families, after having drank the waters of the other springs, come here to bathe in the waters, which possess so many secret and beneficial quali- 52 WHITE SULPHUR PAPEES, ties. Its influence is visible in the gay spirits and animation of the company. The amusements here are various — a ball room and a piano, where the ladies can amuse themselves; and many pretty walks of an evening over the gi^een hill, which leads to more sequestered retreats through the woods and to groves shaded by the maple trees: rides on horse- back and drives to water falls, and fishing streams, in the neighbourhood — a nd theyhave the most trans-parent of moonlights. The forests abound in game, particularly phea- sants — and gentlemen can have fine sport in that way. The Sweet Springs are destined, at no distant day, to become a great and favourite place of resort, and its vicinity to the White Sulphur, and the facili- ties of getting there, give it many advantages. The Sw^eet Spring water is ser\^ceable in the va- rieties of dyspepsia, accompanied by spasms, or with pains at irregular intervals. In secondary debility of the digestive canal, from the exhausting heat of summer, or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery with- out fever. Females of what are termed a nervous habit of body, who have been enfeebled by protracted con- finement, or long nursing their children, deprivation of exercise, and of the enjoyment of fresh air, and SWEET SPRING WATER. 63 who have in addition to these causes of dyspepsia, made excessive use of tea and coffee, will find their health and strength restored by drinking these w'aters, and by using the bath. The usual time for drinking the waters of the Sweet Springs, is early in the morning, before din- ner, and at tea time. This latter period is an im- proper one, it has been thought ; except the invalid suffer at the time from spasm of the stomach, or ex- perience a morbid and gnawing sensation of hunger. The Walter is also useful in calculus and nephritic complaints. It is efficacious in those deranged states of the digestive functions which are termed abdomi- nal obstruction. In chronic enlargement of the liver, or long standing stomach disorder with acidity, hemorrhoidal affections, and uterine derangement. The w^ater being only tepid, the bath is not recom- mended for chronic rheumatism or gout. The waters of the Sw^eet Springs, (save in tempe- rature,) for their cures and in their ingredients, may be likened to those of Vichy, a celebrated watering place in France, on the banks of the Allier, eighty leagues from Paris. 54 CHAP. yi. DEER HUNT AT THE WHITE SULPHUR LEWISBURG BRIDGE OF SIGHS ANECDOTES. One of the favorite amusements at the White Sul- phur, is the deer hunt. The season commences after the first of August, and continues until the close of November; and during those four months it is kept up continually, and with much spirit. A very fine pack of hounds, to the number of sixty, is owned here by one of the sons of the proprietor, and it is a beautiful and novel sight to see them all going out. The several Carolina gentlemen who spend their summers here, are particularly fond of the sport, and each morning during the season, they may be seen getting ready, with high hope in their faces, and arranging the routes and the drives for the day. And when the spoil is brought in, and displayed in the principal square, there is a great rejoicing among the sportsmen and good livers, and comparing of notes among the hunters. The fortunate hero of DEER HUNT AT THE WHITE SULPHUR. 55 the day has a feather in his cap until the next hunt, and claims the first haunch, with the privilege of making a present of the other to w^hom he pleases. Great preparations were making one morning for the hunt. A slight rain the evening previous had laid the dust somewhat, and the ground was thought to be in good order, and the dogs were keen for the scent. The President was to attend the hunt that day, and much pleasure was anticipated, and the southern men were anxious to show the northerners a Httle real good sport. There was a mounting and making ready among the party. Col. S — — , Col. H , of Carolina, and Dr. C , the leaders of the chase, and the crack shots were there — and Nimrod, raising his bugle, brought forth the wdiole pack wdth their music, as loosened from the kennel they came dash- ing through the square. Tliis being an uncommon day, it was given out that the ladies could accompany the party, follow- ing, those who pleased, in carriages. The party started and took the Greenbriar route. Nimrod with the hounds in front, and then the cava- liers with their velvet coats and caps, and rifles and double-barrels. Many of the gentlemen w^ho carried no guns, preferred ambling along with the carriages, as much more gallant than leaving them, for other deer in the mountains. 56 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. We went forth in gallant style, and only wanted the hawkers, to have imagined ourselves in the reign of Queen Elizabeth on a Holy-rood day. After driving for a few miles, we came to the appointed place on a turn off from the road, on a grassy knoll in the shade, which was to be our stand, and where we were left to shoot the deer if we pleased, with canes and parasols, whenever he might come by. Occasionally we would hear the baying note of a single hound, which would die away in the breeze, then again of the whole pack. Nearer and nearer they came. A horseman dashed by in the direc- tion of the springs. We were all again in motion, and from a station of greater eminence on the hill at a little distance, where we were promised in a short while a rare sight, as something fine had been started. We had not w^iited long before a large stag made his appearance from the brushwood at the side of the mountain, and bounded into the field, the dogs after him in full cry. It w^as a most exciting scene. The dogs were running beautifully, most of them two and two, at full speed, and the deer about twenty yards only, in front. Three times they went round and across Briar-field, the hounds gain- ing rapidly — now within a few feet of him — now DEER HUNT LEWISBURG. O? \\ie stag gaining, while many a fond wish from the softest hearts, was heard for his safety. •'I hope he will escape," said one fair lady. " I hope he wont," said Frank H , a great rider, " he has worried us enough to-day." We all looked on with great interest. The boys who had read Ovid, thought of Actaeon and a dark eyed girl, quoted a passage from Scott. The affrighted animal in the mean time, knowing his danger, was making for the stream, which he gained just as Ring, a famous hound, w^ould have had him, in another jump. The deer, after swimming for half a mile, and cooling himself was again routed, but too stiffened then for another race, he was soon overtaken and at the mercy of the dogs ; but this was out of our sia^ht. The company, after witnessing a deer hunt in our own times, and much pleased with the sport, went off to Lewisburg, many of them to finish the day. This is a little town ten miles from the White Sul- phur. The court is held here, where parties make frequent excursions to hear a speech at the bar, dine at Frazier's, and then return in the evening. We left Lewisburg after five o'clock, and came home in high glee, passing over the "Bridge of Sighs." This is a bridge thrown over the creek, 58 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. about two m'lss from the springs, and is a vei-y pretty place for a walk of an afternoon. It is so called from the fact of a young fliwn having been wounded by the hunters and escaping pursuit, hav- ing there fallen where a party just returning from a pic nic, were drawn up. The graceful animal, while expiring, yielded ' his last sigh at this spot, accompanied by more than one tear from pitying beauty — and hence it goes by the name of the ^'Bridge of Sighs." Hunting the deer is an ancient sport, and has been patronized by all the liberal nations. It was formerly in England a royal privilege, and all the crowned heads of the realm have taken part in it. Edward the Confessor, it is said, was a great hunter, and exacted three thousand loaves of bread from one of his manors for the support of his dogs. As an illustration of the eagerness and excite- ment which characterized the followers of the sport in former times, it is related in the field book, that the Duke of Grafton, while hunting, was thrown into a ditch, at the same time a young curate call- ing out, "lie still my lord," leaped over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of feel- ing we may presume was properly resented ; but no such thing. On being helped out by his attend- ants, his grace said — " That man shall have the first HUNTING AMONG THE INCAS. 59 good living within my gift, if he had stopped to take care of me, I never w^ould have given him any thing." A traditional account is given of the celebrated spring in Germany, called Hirchsprung, having been discovered by the Emperor Charles IV., who, while on the hunt, brought a stag to bay at this spot, whence it leaped down the valley; the stag was overtaken at the sprudel, which occasioned the dis- covery of the spring, from which the emperor, at a subsequent period, when he was wounded in the wars, derived so much benefit, that he founded and gave his name to the town, which soon increased considerably in size, and became one of the first watering places in Europe. In the time of the Incas, a grand semi-annual hunt was held throughout their land. About thirty thou- sand of the natives enclosed some twenty-five leagues of countrj'-, bordered by rivers and mountains. The hunters made a great hallowing and noise, and the animals alarmed, were hemmed in, and taken. Tlie lions, bears, lynxes, foxes and other beasts of prey, were extirpated. Sometimes as many as forty thousand of such animals as the roebuck, fallow deer and vicuma, were caught. All the best males and females were suffered to escape ; the old ones only were killed. 60 CHAP. VII. THE SALT SULPHUR THE RED SULPHUR THE GREY SVLPHUR THE BLUE SULPHUR. In no country within the same circumscribed space, can there be found so many valuable medicinal waters, whose qualities are of such high repute, as among the vallies of this region. The springs of the Pyrenees and of Germany, are very numerous in some parts, mostly within the different villages, but the qualities of but a very few of them can com- pare with the waters of the Sweet Springs, the Warm Springs, the Hot Springs, or the White Sul- phur, the Red Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, the Blue Sulphur and the Grey Sulphur — all of which are within the limits of a half day's ride. This is one of the advantages a traveller enjoys in a visit to the springs in this section. Without being compelled to remain at one place the whole summer, he can spend a portion of his time at each, and if his health is not benefited by the waters of one spring, ho can try those of another. t'heorgafcove. 61 We left the White Sulphur one morning, to visit the Salt Sulphur, remain there that day, and visit the Red on the next, and then return to the White. The distance to the Salt Sulphur is twenty-four miles from the white, over a very good mountainous road, running through a very picturesque part of the country. We were four in company, and were getting along very pleasantly, when having gone ten or twelve miles, our driver stopped and asked if any of us wanted to visit the Organ Cave. Upon our answering in the negative, he hesitated, surprised at our want of curiosity, and remarked with much em- phasis, that "it was John Rogers' Organ Cave, the most celebrated, and greatest curiosity in the states," but we still declined and pushed on. The question then arose among us, whether this was the original John Rogers, or merely some namesake, and we were very seriously discussing the matter, without coming to any decisive conclusion, when w^e arrived at the Salt S«iphur, in time for dinner, where the preparations were so abundant, that we were in- clined to thmk it an extra occasion, but we were told afterwards, that such was always the case at 2 o'clock, p. m., at the Salt. The buildings here are quite extensive, and can accommodate two hundred persons very conve- 62 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. niently ; the dining room is large and airy, and the attendance very good. The water of the spring is not so pleasant to the taste as that of the White Sulphur, though some- what similar; having an additional dash of the sulphate of soda in its composition. We enjoyed the fine walks in the neighbourhood over the heights, having on all sides of us the finest mountain scenery, and attended the ball in the even- ing w^hich was quite a brilliant one, where we met many of our fair acquaintances from the White. The living at this spring is so very fine, that many special excursions are made from the other springs to dine here, dance in the evening, and return homo next day. The thriving town of Union is within a few miles of these springs. We left the Salt S-alphur next morning after break- fast, not intending this should be our last visit, and continued our route to the Red Sulphur, the distance to which from this place, is seventeen miles, over a very good road, through a wildly beautiful and un^ cultivated part of the country, telling of romance and adventure in every sedge and cavern and shad- ed stream, which you pass on your route. You have a fine view of the whole establishment R E D S U L P 11 U R . 63 of the Red Sulphur at a sudden turn of the road be- fore you reach the springs. The buildings consist of two large and commo- dious hotels, and several rows of neat cabins ; the walks are well planned which intersect the lawns, and abound with large trees, of the sugar maple ; a beautiful green hill in the vicinity forms a fine pro- menade in the evening. The accommodations are excellent for invahds and others, and the place is much resorted to of late years, by persons suffering with pulmonary complaints, and it is thought when the water here, fails to effect a cure, there is no re- medy beyond. The spring takes its name from the red precipi- tate at the bottom: the water is sedative in its effects, and reduces irritation and the pulse. It is mostly taken before going to bed at night, and before breakfast. Its principal ingredients are sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate oflime, and mu- riate of soda. There is more quietude here than at the other springs, and the sound of some lone flute in the val- ley, will carry back the listener to the history of the Pantheon and the Sylvan deities. They dance here, as at all the springs, and the colored race of Virginia being born fiddlers, a musi- cian is never out of the way. 64 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. Our companions, the most of them being gay Lo* tharios, from the white, could not be prevailed on to remain more than one evening, and we left this romantic spot on the next morning to return to the white, a distance of forty five miles. We were denied the pleasure of a visit to the Grey Sulphur, wliich is nine miles from the Red. Those springs are owned by a Carolina gentleman, Mr. Legare, who has been extending the improve- ments of the place for the last three years. The waters are said to be very anti-dyspeptic, and con- tain sulphuretted hydrogen and several neutral salts. Those who have visited the Grey, speak very highly of the accommodations, and of the attention and politeness of the host There is an inducement for company to visit that place, arising from the num- ber of accomphshed Carolineans who resort there with their families. The Blue Sdphur is twenty-five miles from the Wliite ; the stage leaves the latter place regularly every morning, and arrives before dinner. The Blue Sulphur has become a very favorite and fash- ionable resort within a few summers past, and bids fair to be the chief watering place in the mountains, after the White Sulphur. The accommodations are sufficient for two hundred persons, and very ex- tensive improvements are in projection. In front of BLUESULPHUR. 65 the main brick building, is a handsome three storied piazza, forming a fine promenade, before which you have an extensive level plain, laid out in walks, and bounded on both sides by the mountains, and orna- mented with groves of the sugar maple, and several rows of pretty cabins. The bathing is unusually good, and the bath houses are in very fine order. The dining room is of an agreeable size, and airy of a warm day, and the table is abundantly supplied with many delicacies. The water in the spring very much resembles that of the White Sulphur in taste. The fountain is not so large, nor the stream so copious as theWhite; the water has a purplish color, and from its ingre- dients, it may be likened to the famous spring of Ba- den. It contains sulphuretted hydrogen and carbo- nic acid gas, sulphate of soda, muriate of soda, sul- phate of lime, carbonate of lime, sulphate of magne- sia, sulphur, and animal or glairine matter. The above enumeration of its ingredients, agrees pre- cisely with a published analysis of the spring at Baden near Vienna. 66 CHAP. VIII. AUTUMN IN THE MOUNTAINS. The summer has gone with all its bright days, its joys and its pleasures, and the soft mellow rays of declining September, are falling on the woods and the hills. The edges of the horizon wear a golden hue, and the setting sun is forming landscapes in the clouds. The mountains are robed in their highest beauty —the trees have put on their bright court dresses, ofa thousand different hues, and all nature looks serenely beautiful. "How call you this— the season's fall That seems the pageant of the year, Richer and brighter far than all— The pomp that spring and summer wear." But very few persons remain at the springs as late as the last week in September, which, with part of the month of October, is the most delightful period AUTUMN IN THE MOUNTAINS. 67 to those who are fond of autumn scenery and the quiet pleasures the season brmgs. There is a tran- quilhty of atmosphere at that time — a moral philo- sophy of weather which must be felt to be better described or enjoyed. The White Sulphur and the neighbouring springs are nearly deserted, a few still linger; but there is company, for those who like it, in the beautiful scenery of the surrounding country, and in the winged flutterers of the forest. The foliage of the woods, and the meadows is of the richest kind — of every colour and every shade, yellow, purple, blue, vermillion, orange, the modest orange, scarlet, and crimson. The Indian summer succeeds, in October, and it continues warm until Christmas. The mountai- neers are bringing down their deer to sell, and their prices have fallen considerably since the consumers have thinned off, and the gentlemen in this vicinity being all shots themselves, they never purchase. The mountains in the neighbourhood, and for some miles around, have been on fire for several days. It is a sublime spectacle to see them at night, their tops covered with sheets of living flame ; the young pine trees filled with rosin, burn with a terrible cracking; and bursting, send up their red hght to 68 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS the black clouds, while the beholder is reminded of volcanoes in their rage. Fires have to be kindled below the mountains to meet those from above, otherwise the fences and corn in the fields would be destroyed. These fires, so destructive to the verdure and growth of the trees, happen, almost annually, from the carelessness of the hunters, who fire the dry leaves and underwood to increase the facilities of procuring game, and not unfrequently from the burn- ing of a bee-tree. This particular region in the county of Green- briar, and as far as the Sweet Springs, w^as at one time a favourite resting place for the red man. The smoke has curled from many a wdgw^am on these high liills, w^here councils and war talks have been held, and along the banks of the creek can now be found the arrow points of quivers wasted in hunt and in battle. Kate's mountain, in view from the White Sulphur, was the scene of many a bloody fight between the white settlers and the Indians. The mountain takes its name from an old lady, Kate Carpenter — who after having her family butchered, took refuge there, where she remained for some days in great jeopardy of her life. But tales of border warfare of olden days have ceased to be interesting. The thrillmg occurrences INDIAN CHIEFS. 09 which are now daily happening, have too much reality in them and are sufficiently exciting. In a few years more these ancient stories will all be forgotten, and the men who came from the thunder will be gone. Pushamataha, a celebrated chief of the Chostaws. on being questioned as to his birth, replied, 'Pushama- taha was never born — a dark cloud passed over the horizon — a flash of lightning rent the tallest pine tree — the heavens opened, and out stepped Push- mataha, a full grown warrior, with his rifle on his shoulder.' Those who heard the gi'eat Keokuk when at Washington, will perhaps remember the opening of one of his speeches where alluding to the rapid de- cline of his race : "Father, I stand before you, one foot in my own nation and one foot here— the sun is before me, and the sun is behind me — he shines all day with the whites, but he sets among the red men." And again his touching remarks at a parting speech with the secretary of war : "Father, we have one thmg more to ask before we go, — during our last war with the whites, one of our young girls was taken prisoner. We loved her very much, her name is the Turkey child, and the woman, her mother, has grieved for her ever since — she is weeping her eyes away at 70 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. home, and they call her the lonely one ; if you will have the child restored, the woman's heart will be gladdened, and Keokuk and the nation will be pleased." Black Hawk, whose name was once a terror in the north-west, accompanied Keokuk and his war riors to Washington in the fall of Thirty-seven, but all his power had been taken from him — he was no longer a Chief. A few years before, he had been carried through the United States, by order of the government, to impress upon him the power and extent of the country. He had been through the principal cities, and had visited fortress Monroe, and the navy yard at Gosport and seen the shipping. After he had been liberated and had reached home, he astonished the natives of the forest, in describing the wonders he had witnessed. Among other things he told them he had seen a canoe, which would hold a thousand people and a hundred big guns. This last story was past believing— they suspected him of trying to impose on their credulity. A canoe large enough for a small nation— it was too monstrous to be believed ; it was decided, however, that he should accompany them on their visit to the United States, where he could prove the many wonders he had related. BLACK HAWK KEO KUK. 71 I went with an interpreter at Washington to see Black Hawk. I found him a much smaller man than I had supposed him to be, apparently about sixty years of age, plainly dressed, in a calico shirt, with blue lee^CTincrs, and rinsrs in his ears. I told liim I was glad to- see him, and had long heard of him as a great warrior. He said he was a great man once when he was a Chief, but now, that the whites forgot to come and shake hands with him ; and with an expressive countenance, he pointed to a room, where Keokuk then was surrounded by the crowds who flocked to see him. Keokuk was one of the finest specimens of a man I had ever seen — a model of nature for the sculptor, and he reminded you of Persico's statue of war at the capitol. He had a tall and commanding figure, and the stamp- of a nobleman on his face, and was looked after as he walked along, with admiration. He w^ore a rich scarlet robe, flung over a dress of the same colored material, and the ornaments and presents about his person, were of the richest kind. No C almuc Tar- tar, in his most showy costume, ever appeared to finer advantage than Keo Kuk. He was the head the Sacs and Foxes. An Indian agent from the west, gave me an account of another speech of this great orator, made at a time when the Winnebagoes had threatened to ^'^ WHirj-. SULPHUR P A P E K &c murder the whites at Prairie du ChieiL There was a great gathering of the tribes, for a peace talk : the Winnebagoes alone, came into counod with their faces painted black, a sign of hostility. Keokuk, in an animated speech, wherein he de- clared himself the friend of the whites, turned to the Winnebagoes and addressed them after this man- ner : „ Winnebagoes, I hear that you threaten to make war on the whites— if so, when you promised them friendship last year, you spoke with a forked tongue —and your hearts were as black then, as your faces are now— Winnebagoes !" continued he, plucking a hair from his head, and holding it up— " you see this hair ! If you lay the weight of your hand on a single white man, I will sweep you from the face of the earth, as I blow this hair." The speech had its desired effect. The road passing by the White Sulphur, is the great route to the west by Guyandotte, and for many weeks, hundreds of wagons, and other conveyances, have been going by, filled with emigrants, in search of new homes. Men, women and children, of all ages, sizes and conditions. There is much character tj be met with among them occasionally; and it afford- ed the writer of these pages much pleasure, and interest at times, to hear their original remarks, as EMIGRATION. 73 to the country they were going to, and what they intended to do, when they got there. I came upon a party one day, who had been bi- vouacing,on the side of the way; it turned out to be a whole neighbourhood, from one of the eastern coun- ties of Virginia, on their way to Ilhnois. They had with them all their farming utensils and furniture- spinning wheels, churns, and the like. The boys (a number of them) who were large enough, were sup- plied with guns, and they walked after the wagons and furnished the game. The old patriarch of the party, with whom I conversed, said it went very hard with him to leave old Virginny, but the lands they had just quitted, were worn out, and would not produce sufficient support for their families, which were large. They had collected several hundred dollars among them, and were going to buy and cultivate new lands in Illinois. The old man was quite pleased and surprised, when I mentioned tliat the emperor of China ploughed a furrow once a year, from respect to the farmers and agriculture, and calling the attention of one of the boys near him, he said, "Do you hear that, sir— that the king of China was a farmer? and if you keep straight, you may be the president of the United States yet" -nothing more true than the old man's last remark; 74 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. it is verified in the history of this country, and one of those very boys may be our future president. Who were once the leading statesmen of the pre- sent day, and our great men in congress ? Among the many instances of self made men, there is one who has been known in the councils at Washing- ton, and much respected for his character and ser- vices. I have heard him tell his own story — how he wandered when a boy, from some where in Penn- sylvania, I think, barefooted, and almost without clothes, begging his way, as he went along, and swinging to the ends of wagons, with n :> capital but youth and a light heart, not knowing a letter of the alphabet, or the meaning of a book. How one day, overtaking a wagon which had stalled in the road, and which by his proffered assist- ance was released, the owner patting him on the shoulder said, ' 'Be of cheer, my little man, you'll be a general some of these days." This he remember- ed through Hfe. He found his way to Ohio, and by chopping wood and clearing the forest, he made a little money — finding a stray newspaper one day, he became pos- sessed with a strong desire to learn to read, and after the age of twenty-five he came to know his letters. He was made a general, verifying the pre- diction of the teamster — was sent to the legislature, EFFECTS OF ENTERPRIZE. 75 and afterwards elected to congress, where he was a prominent member until 1834, and only last year finished his term as governor of the state. 76 JOURNAL OF A LADY DURING THE SEASON AT THE WHITE SULPHUR. CHAP. IX. Tuesday, July — . It is two weeks this day since I arrived here, and exactly three since leaving home, towards the end of June, where the flowers look brighter, and the birds sing sweeter w^ith us than at any other time. I set out for this terrestrial paradise — so it was de- scribed to me then — (and such I have almost found it to be) to renovate my health by drinking of its sparkling waters, and wliirl away the summer hours in mirth and gladness, among its green hills and smiling valleys. Our party being among the first arrivals, we ob- tained excellent accommodations, which by a little tact and management we have been enabled thus JOURNAL OF A LADY. 77 far to retain exclusively for ourselves. I cannot but contrast the present aspect here of every thing, with that which presented itself on our first arrival. Then every thing was green and beautiful, as it is now, but more quiet than our own homes. We spent all the morning in our cabin, looking from time to time with eager eyes towards the high road in the hope of being blessed with the sight of some travelling carriage ; and wiien the few wiio were here met on the walk in the afternoon, the first enquiry was, what friends are coming? When wiL they be here? Now all is life, bustle and enjoy- ment, and each day brings an accession to our com- pany. It was but this moment that I saw Mr. Anderson lead the way to Carolina Row, followed by a carriage and four, filled with ladies ; the gen- tlemen of the party following on horseback. Scarcely have we got through the rides and excursions of one day, ere new ones are proposed for the next. " Miss has never been to Lewis- burg, or Miss — — has never seen the cascade, or would like to see it again. We must have a ride over to the Sweet Springs ; we can dine at Crow's on the way back, and then be in time for the ball." Such is the usual preface of conversation among a circle of some twenty persons. But there 's the dinner bell, and as I saw pretty Mrs. K 's maid 78 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. run by just now wdth the curling tongs, I must stop writing in order to give a look at my own coiffure, or I shall not be in time to witness the gi'and entree into the dining hall. After dinner I sauntered wdth the rest of the world into the ball-room, which is the only general parlour here. JMeeting with the J 's, we sat down and had a long chat of more than an hour. As they expressed a wish, on leaving the room, to pay a visit in Baltimore Row, I accompanied them. We found the door closed, which signifies here, " not at home." We wrote our names and the hour of calling, on one of the pillars of the piazza, and retraced our steps home. If we had had cards with us, it would have been in accordance with true etiquette to have placed them under the door. On reaching my room, I wrote a long letter to S , entreating her to come and join us here. After tea I merely took two or three turns on the w^alk, and then came up to seal my letter for the mail, and make ready for the ball ; which, by the bye, was the gayest and brightest we have had. " Murray " played with spirit, and we encom-aged him by danc- ing until half past ten— it was eleven before we had talked the day over, and as it is now sometime after. I very cheerfully say good night. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 79 Thursday^ . I had just fallen asleep last night, when I was awakened by the sound of music. I listened. It came nearer and nearer, and I discovered it was the band serenading. At length they stopped beneath our w indow for half an hour, and then again passed on,stopping occasionally on their way, until the sounds were completely lost in the dis- tance. Serenades are of nightly occurrence here. About three nights since, I listened to some of the sweetest music I had ever heard, from a guitar, a flute, and three voices. Apropos to serenades, I was much a^mused to-day by an anecdote related to me by a lady w^ho had an active part in the scene. It seems that she and her cousin, a young lady of much romance and spirit, were here last siimmer, and the first among those who were most courted and admired. Two gentlemen, friends of theirs, were to leave the springs next morning, and from some intimation given during the day, the ladies understood that they were to receive that evening a farewell sere- nade. My cousin, continued she, determined to reward them and proposed forming wreaths of flowers to be lowered to them at the conclusion of their song. After some little persuasion, I assented 80 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERR. to the plan, and that day was spent in gathering the brightest flowers, and twining them with the dark green leaves of the laurel which grows in such abun- dance here into crowns for the expected trouba- dours. Night came, and about an hour after we had retired, we heard the anticipated sounds beneath the window ; v/e immediately rose and attaching strings of ribbon to the wreaths, we softly raised the sash and at the conclusion of the first song, lowered them to our friends below. There was a slight pause and then some whispering among the musi- cians as though they were consulting how they might best rev/ard so flattering a return of their compliment to us, so we thought at least, and were confirmed in this opinion by their singing in conclu- sion one of our most favourite songs. We retired in high spirits at wdiat we considered the success of our little frolic. In the morning on looking from the window as usual, to ascertain the state of the w^eather, what was our consternation, at beholding withered and neglected on the ground the wreaths that we fondly imagined were on the road to the Warm Springs with the friends for whom they were intended and treasured by them as pre- cious remembrances of ourselves. It so happened that the night had been dark, and we had been so cautious in our movements, that we were neither JOURNAL OF A LADY. 81 heard nor our offerings received. We instantly sent down our maid to rescue them from observation and could but laugh at the failure of a scheme, the supposed success of which had given us so much satisfaction the night before. Saturday, . About six o'clock this evening, a gay party of us were on our way to Briar-field, the residence of Mrs. B , about two miles from the springs, in the direction of Lewisburg, where we were invited to spend the evening, or as they say here, to a tea- drinking. In our rides to L , the house which stands back from the road had frequently been point- ed out, ^vhen seen in glimpses through the trees, as the dwelling of one of the most amiable of ladies, and one who was exceedingly fond of the society of young people, and always taking pleasure in contri- buting all in her power, in any way, to their happi- ness or amusement. Upon our arrival, we found quite a sociable number had preceded us, and we were very cordially received by the kind hostess. Tea was handed, and the waiters were filled with such a profusion of good things, and creams, and warm pound-cake, that we forgot, for awhile, in our delight, that we were more tlian three hundred miles from home in the moun- 82 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. tains, but imagined ourselves on an evening visit to a country seat near the city. After tea, leaving the elder portion of the com- pany to amuse themselves as they pleased, we young people, strolled into the garden, which may be easily perceived from its flourishing condition, to be imder the peculiar care of its mistress. The only spot I have seen in the neighbourhood, where flowers are cultivated. The garden is extensively laid out, abounding in fruit trees, and currants and raspberries. A small arbor is covered with the multiflora rose and honey- suckle, and the borders of the walks are lined with the prettiest flowers, pinks, mignionette, hearts-ease, ambrosias, and stork jellies — all reminding us so much of our sweet garden at home. The evening was beautifully clear and bright, but the dew beginning to fall, we were soon called into the house by our prudent friends, to the little vexa- tion, no doubt, of some who were wandering off* alone, to the less frequented paths of the garden, endeavouring, perchance, to tell their feelings in flowers, and drinking sentiment from tulip cups and blushing rose buds. Soon after our return to the house, we took leave of our amiable hostess, and returned to decorate our heads for the ball, from the many pretty bouquets she had so generously pre- sented us. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 83 Monday, We are four in our cabin ; C. and I. occupying one room, and having our front room to receive visitors, and our piazza for our music saloon. We are much better off than many of our acquaintances in Virginia yov^, where they have but two apart- ments in each cabin. We attended divine service on Sunday, in the ball room, at eleven o'clock. There is no regular minister here, but generally some one is present, to officiate on each Sabbath. The day is very reli- giously observed, more so than at most of the noi th- ern watering places, which is saying a good deal for the high tone and moral sense of the company, and in the midst of all our pleasures, there is no little to be admired at it. Wanting some barege for veils this morning, C. and I. went over to the store, which is kept in the corner of Virginia row. When we entered, v/e found the only person in attendance, then assisting a lady in trying a pair of gloves on a little boy of five years old, who persisted most pertinaceously in thrusting his four fingers into that part intended for his thumb alone, so we had time to look about us at the many fanciful things which were arranged rather promiscuously on the shelves : dry goods, buttons, nails, laces, silks, shoes, artificial flowers, perfumery, jewelry, and in short, every thing which could b« 84 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. wanted or asked for, was to be had. Suspended from the ceiling, were tin buckets, hosiery, baskets, stage whip and horns, and numerous other trifles. The person who waited on us, was more than civil, and finding what we wanted, we came away much satisfied. In the porch were a pair of scales, w^here we found a young lady aflfecting the delicate and inter- esting, quite shocked to find that she weighed a hundred pounds. What must have been her con- tempt for me, who weigh one hundred and twenty- three? however, I am told a young lady may w^eigh 126 without exceeding the allowed compliment of em hon point beauty. After dinner, we heard some delightful music at the ball room, both vocal and instrumental, from Mrs. and her sister Miss ; it was so attractive, that we remained there for some hours. Wednesdmj, . We wei'e invited to a lunch at the Colonnade this morning. We met there a very agreeable company of some dozen ladies and gentlemen ; the refresh- ments w^ere fine, and with much wit and good hu- mour, the two hours went off' very pleasantly. The ball in the evening was quite gay; the order of the dance is two cotillions, then^a waltz, the Spanish dance, or Virginia reel, being generally the finale ; JOURNALOFALADY. 85 and to-night, for th-e first time, we had the German cotillion. One is often amused at the variety of style of dancing with different persons. We have every grade exhibited, from the ancient pigeon wing, and bobbing up and down of the country squire and miss, to the slide, or dignified walking through, of the more eastern Belle and Beau. I don't know exactly what our style can be called, but very likely it is thought outre, by those who prefer their own. There is one gentleman here from Baltimore, who in defiance of his silver-tinged locks, seems to enjoy his dance as much as the youngest among the com- pany ; he scorns the modern introduction of boots, (and there I think him right) and seems to point the toe of his well-polished pump with pecuHar emphasis, where the heel of some reckless Wellington passes before him. It is impossible not to meet with some eccentrici- ties and oddities of dress among every company gathered at a watering place ; still I do wish frock coats were entirely banished from the ball room, and gloves more generally introduced. In a company, for the most part, so select as that now here, the improprieties in dress above alluded to, strikes one the more glaring. 86 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. Thursday, August — . This is the commencement of August, called the gay month, and persons are flocking here from all quarters ; more than fifty each day have to be de- nied admittance. The southerners, from the lower counties of Virginia and elsewhere continue to arrive, most of them have cabins provided, and their coming is anticipated. After breakfast this morning, we returned to our cabins, and remained on the piazza chatting with our neighbours, and watching the departure of the gentlemen for the hunt ; this is the beginning of the hunting season, and their preparations 8.re all new to us. After reading the letters from home, I took my work and sat all the morning with dear Mrs. , who is, without exception, one of the most charming old ladies I have ever met with ; I found her con- versation so instructive and interesting, that I re- mained with her until the appearance of the cake man reminded me that it Vv^as after twelve. This person is of no little importance here ; he carries a large w^ooden tray, suspended from his shoulders by a leather strap, and on it is scattered in confusion cakes and crakers and candies ; he makes his rounds every day about noon, when, having nothing to do, we have time to feel hungry — he ever meets with a ready welcome. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 87 At dinner every one was very gay. The gentle- men were in fine spirits at the success of their morning expedition, having brought in two fine deer, one of them said to have been killed by Col. H , of Carolina, who is invariably successful. After dinner, I went into the ball room to procure from the leader of the band a very beautiful waltz tliat is quite a favourite here, and as it was very warm, returned home, and spent the greater part of the afternoon in copying it. At sundown, Mrs. called in her barouche with her niece and Mr. and asked me to ride. I readily acceded to her proposal, and the evening being very fine, w^e drove as far as the Greenbriar bridge, and from being inspired by the scenery, I suppose, we entered all of us into a very sentimental conversation. We staid out so late, that on our return we found tea was over, and all of the walks and lawns lined with the gay and happy. The table was not entirely cleared however, and we managed to have our supper very comfortably. We strolled round after- wards, to one of the white cottages, and found a laughing party engaged at cards, playing old maid, we remained until one of us was left with the queen, but had no patience to stay any longer. The ball was more brilHant than last evening, and when we left it, the moon was shining so bright- 88 WHITE SUCPHUR PAPERS. ly, and the night altogether so fine, that a party of us walked to the spring, to take our last glass of water there, instead of having it brought to us as usual. Saturday, . The President arrived last evening, a large party of gentlemen went out in carriages and on horsback, to meet him, and welcome him to the White Sulphur. The cavalcade came in about dark, in a cloud of dust. We have had no rain here for several weeks. The ball, it is thought, will be uncommonly attractive to-night, so many distinguished persons having ar- rived, and we have been practising the German cotillion and Spanish dance for the last tw^o days, to make a sensation to-night. Our waltzing company is on the increase ; w^e have several now from New York, Baltimore, Washington, and Richmond. Tuesday, . I find a blank space of tw^o days in my journal. We have been talking over the events and pleasures of last night. The President was there, and a great many new comers. The ladies were more dressed than ordinary, and the music played remarkably well. We also had pretty bouquets sent us during the evening which we sported. 9 JOURNAL OF A LADY. 8 We had the Spanish dance, mtroduced here, first by a gay party of Fioridians, and we all acquitted ourselves very well. Gen. H lead off with Mrs. . The company remained until after twelve o'clock. Miss of Virginia, dropped a very costly bracelet in the walk on Sunday evening — it was returned to her the same night, by a gentleman, with the following lines anonymously. Fair lady ! there ne'er was a pleasure like mine — That this bracelet which dropped from an arm so divine. Should by chance, so unlook'd for, have fallen to me, To restore the bright treasure uninjured to thee. It must have been sever'd, unlinked from its tie, By some throb of affection as tremulously From the deep spring, the heart, it unresistingly stole, And buoyantly broke from the passion's controul. But be that as it may, I fondly shall treasure The time, and that moment of joy and of pleasure, When in transport of feeling, delighted I pressed. This pretty hijou, you so oft have caressed. Wednesday, . We remained at home this morning, and received a great many visitors. C. keeps a Hst of all who call during the day. We have had a discussion with several gentlemen as to the exact height of the Venus de Medici, the standard for all beauties; there was much differing on the subject : Mr. said 8* 90 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. her height was four feet tw^o inches, and Mr. was certain she was five feet four, w^hile Mr. who had seen the original at Florence, denied her being over four foot nine inches, in the position she stands. It was well perhaps that the point was un- decided, as several ladies who w^ere present, can now liken themselves to the Venus in stature. We are to have a musical party this evening — a concert ! and have been very busy all the afternoon in arranging and enlarging our drawing-room. We expect something of a squeeze. The gentlemen will have to occupy the piazza, and ^ve must borrow' all of our neighbours' chairs. Thursday, . Our soiree musicale, went off delightfully last evening, every one came, we expected, and we had some very fine music. Mrs. , of Nashville, sang the " Banks of Ganges" with the guitar, and accompanied by Mr. , with his voice and violin, and the sweet little song of " My Normandy." Mrs. , of Mobile, also charmed us with some pretty Spanish airs on the guitar. We have set the fashion, and concerts are to be the rage. Mrs. promises one to-morrow even- ing at the veranda, and Miss wdll have one next week at the colonnade. We must so arrange it as not to interfere with the ball. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 91 Friday, . Captain Marryat, the celebrated novelist, has been here for some days. We had a long conver- sation yesterday upon many pleasant topics, and I was agreeably disappointed from v^hat had been said of his rough manners and address. He is perhaps not very prepossessing in his appearance at first, being a thick set, gruflf-looking man, and having a reserved look to a stranger ; but this soon wears ofl:'on an acquaintance, and his eye has a sparkle of life and humor; and he has much anecdote. In speaking yesterday, of one of the great poets of England of the present day, he said it was some- what curious, that the person to whom he went to school in his young days, and by whom he had been flogged so often, that after he had become the editor of the Metropolitan, he should then have had the pleasure of paying him back in coin, at the rate of so many guineas for each flagellation. The phrenologists here have been to request an examination of his head. He showed us the chart: Ideality, very large — Humor, large — Wit, very little. It also makes him out a very modest and diffident man, which the captain says, is about the only point on which the disciples of Combe agree in relation to him. 5* 92 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. He says he never commenced writing, for publi- cation, until as late as 1829. He has written with great rapidity since. We should infer, from his conversation, that he prefers the " King's-Ow^n" to most of his works, and after that, the " Pacha of Many Tales." He is writing a book on America. I hope he will speak well of our party, and not forget the ladies he danced w^ith, at the White Sulphur. Saturday, . It rained during part of this morning, which made the ground so wet, as to oblige us not only to break- fast, but dine and sup in our cabin. It is amusing, such a day as this, to watch the waiters going in every direction, carrying the various meals to the different cabins. Mrs. L and her daughter, being next door neighbours, came in to dine with us, and Mr. P and several gentlemen joined us at tea in the porch. We sat until after ten o'clock, listening to the news of the day, and were about retiring, when the sound of Mr. 's guitar, in Paradise row, induced us to remain awhile, to listen to its deliglitful tones, whif'h he can so well draw out. " Were it some hours later," said B , " I should magine the music proceeded from the lute of the JOURNAL OF ALADY. 93 White Phantom." He was instantly called upon to explain. " Do you not know," replied he, " that every dark night, as the clock strikes twelve, there is to be seen, a phantom lady in white, on the hill behind Paradise row, who walks slowly round the brow of it, singing to a silver lute, sometimes a guitar, and should any serenader protract his song until that late hour, she immediately joins him in Iris hymn to beauty." This is firmly believed, I assure you, continued he, by many persons near here, and indeed I thought one night I had the fortune to behold her, but on nearer approach, I discovered what I took to be her flowing robe, only a table cloth, left hanging on the trees by some careless laundress, and the sound of her lute was only the echo of my own instrument* nevertheless you must not doubt her existence. We promised to keep a good look out for the white lady, and bade our company good night. 94 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. BALLAD. Lady in white ! Who walks't at night, Alone at the dreary hour, Come tell to me, If thou art she, Who haunts the wood and bower. "Yes, I am she, Who wanders free, O'er the hills of Paradise ; And vigil keeps, While beauty sleeps. And watch till darkness flies. I once was gay, I love the day. But doom'd by a fairy's power. When the moon is dull. By the beautiful, I roam at the midnight hour. I music bring. And often fling Leaves of the sweetest roses. Where beauty lies, With half closed eyes, And modestly reposes." Lady in white ! Thy words are bright. Come bring thy music and flowers, Come wander here. From year to year. And rest in our woods and bowers. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 95 Monday, We went to Lovers' Retreat, this evening, for the first time. C. and I., with two gentlemen, who call- ed for us at the appointed time, five o'clock. Upon going to the door, we were a little surprised to know that we were to walk, but Mr. said that it would spoil the poetry of the expedition, if we were to ride, and besides, the place was unapproachable in a carriage ; so we started, and rambled through the woods for more than two miles over bramble and briar, and a.t last came to this much-celebrated spot, in a very lonely part of the wood, which had been the scene of so many courtships, and romantic adventures ; which had been written in verse, and meted in song. We sat down by the side of the large rock, v*diere many had wliispered before us, and tried to feel very sentimental. The trees in our immediate presence, v^'ere carved with names and initials, some of which the bark had overgrown, and many v/ere unintelligible. One of tlie c^entlernen v/ith us was very conversant with all the technicalities of the spot, having been here frequently before; and gave as many interesting descriptions of the persons v/ho had figured here at various times, with many amusing details. He asked us if we had never heard the story of the Count : he said it was a romance in real life 96 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. a story of every day — and that he had been an eye- witness to many of the leading incidents of the drama. About four years ago, contmued he, there came to the White Sulphur, during the most fashionable season, an elderly lady and her daughter, from the north. The daughter was reputed wealthy, too wealthy for men of moderate pretensions to make their advances, and none sought an introduction; and even if they wished it, who knew them? They never came to the ball room, and their only escort appeared to be a foreign Count — he attended them to their meals, and in their walks ; and whUe in public, his attention was most marked to the mother ; in the sylvan shades, it was said, he was most fasci- nated with the young lady. A gayer company of some four hundred had never perhaps assembled, than was at the White Sulphur during the summer of 183-. The belles were many and beautiful, the balls were crowded, and the green lawn each evening presented a fairy scene, in groups of ladies and gentlemen, straying hke gypsying par- ties through the walks and groves, and the delightful interchanges of visits from one bright cottage to another, rendered a month of such enjoyment, an eve of real pleasure in the life of a visitor. Almost the entire company seemed in their social inter- JOURNAL OF A LADY. 97 course, as though they all belonged to the same household, or had been acquainted for years. There were three visitors, the two ladies and the Count, who kept aloof, and had no social intermin- gling with the rest. They had spent over a fortnight at the Springs, without making scarcely a single acquaintance. Conduct so marked, could not fail, in such a company, to draw forth remarks and sur- mises. The Count was still assiduous in his atten- tions to the daughter. They would stroll to 'Lover's Retreat' in the evening, and sing duets over the piano, when no one was present. It was rumored they were engaged, and many said that while the mother liked the Count for his title, the Count courted the daughter for her wealth. They had been here about three weeks, when the young lady, one evening, made her first appearance in the ball room. Its attractions had been thrown out to her by a gentleman who, by some means, had made her acquaintance, and she had been prevailed on to attend. She was much admired for her figure and grace, and she danced and enjoyed herself very much. Many gentlemen claimed an mtroduction; she was coarted, and surrounded— she became a Belle. Many gallants were in her train next day, while the poor Count was evidently thrown in the back ground. 9 98 WHITE SULPHUR PAPER £c It was at this time, (continued B.) that I became acquainted with the Count, and found him a very clever person ; he was evidently very much in love, and almost distracted at the growing coolness of the lady. It was said, that she never really encouraged his attentions, and that but for the mother, she would have avoided a frequent intercourse, and knowing no one at the time, she was somewhat dependant on him. A few weeks went by, the lady still a Belle, and the Count evidently neglected. The season passed, and the party left the Springs. On their arrival at Philadelphia, at a boarding house, •whither the Count followed, (it was at a boarding house where he had first seen her.) — The lady wrote liim a letter, forbidding his further visits or atten- tions. The next morning, the Count was dead — he had taken laudanum on the night, he received the letter discarding him, and had dreamed away exis- tence. « Nothing in his hfe Became him hke the leaving it : he died As one that had been studied in his death To throw away, the dearest thing he owned, As 'twere a careless trifle." JOURNAL OF A LAD r. 99 Wednesday^ . Our kind friend, Mr. , has been to visit ug this morning, bringing with him his rods and fishing tackle, and leaving for us a basket of little deHcacies which he had caught in the creek. He says he eame to the Springs, determined to enjoy himself in his own way, and he spends his mornings in ram- bling and angling, and collecting shells and fossils from the banks of the many streams, and exploring the curiosities of the neighbourhood. He says there are glades, and tumbling cataracts, and cascades, and shady retreats all around, that none of us gay people ever visit or hear of, and that on the top of one of the mountains directly over us, is a glassy lake where the wild deer come to drink at all hours. He visits the old men in the mountains, some of them the original settlers, who give him the history of the country, and he learns from them many curious stories. He has been prevailing on us to accompany him in one of liis morning tours, and gather wild flowers, and has promised C to make her a collection of pretty butterflies. He says he hears that we are great Belles, and while other gentlemen dance with us, he'll fish for us. He tells us, moreover, that the White Sulphur water is very serviceable to the teeth, and that the frequent use of it has a wonderful effect in improving the complexion. 100 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS, Friday, A travelling museum has been in the neighbour- hood for some days, which a great many have been to see. This evening, when the company had gone to tea, C. and I. and Aunt, and Mr. went to make it a visit, feeling inclined for novelty in any shape. There were two large wagons painted red, and joined together, making two apartments, where the curiosities were displayed in their grotesque order. It was Peale's museum in miniature, for they appeared to have a little of every thing curious, wolves, bears, wax figures, Indian dresses and arrows, a large crocodile, shells, minerals, and many strings of rattles. Among the many beautifully prepared birds, was a large white Albatross, of rare size, the first we had ever seen. The poet Coleridge has ^ immortal- ized this bird, and we looked upon it with more interest than any thing in the collection. The keeper gave us most glowing and fancy descriptions of all the wonders of his cabinet. One of the wax figures represented Alexander Selkirk, and he assured us, that the rusty pistol in his hand was the very same which this celebrated personage had used while in solitude on the island. We left the Museum, and continued our stroll to the top of the hill, near the Colonnade, where we JOURNAL OP A LADY. 101 joined the promenaders, who had returned from tea, and were enjoying the fine views which is here had at sunset. We came home, where C — found a bouquet filled with ambrosia and mignionette, which had been sent to her, and which determined her to go to the ball this evening ; although to-morrow will be the day of the great pic-nic. LINES TO THE ALBATROSS. Bird of the light and snowy wing ! Fair harbinger of cheer ! — Whither now, from thy wandering, Say, Albatross ! why here ! Thy home is in the far off isles, Beyond the southern sea, In lands where summer never smiles ; No visitant but thee. Wliere hast thou been ^ — ^what hast thou seen! In crossing o'er the main. When floating like an airy queen, Above the winds and rain. When didst thou live ] — ^where is thy mate ? What sailor captured thee 1 While thou wert in the air elate, With pinions broad and free. 102 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. I follow thee, thro' ether sky, I am with thee and thine ; I see thee from the dolphin fly, And leave the fisher's line. I live with thee — thro' many days Of storm and tempest loud, — And hear thee sing thy evening lays Above the flapping shroud. I hear thy scream of wildest note, — A rifted wreck goes by ; Thy dirge is o'er a lifeless boat, The sea gives up a sigh. Proud bird ! thou hast been sailing long All over sea and shore, But none again will hear thy song, Thy wing will tire no more. What brought thee death I do not know. But Albatross. I fear It reach'd thee from some whizzing bow Of ancient Mariner. Monday, . This morning being the one fixed on for the great pic-nic, which had been in agitation for the last week, many an anxious eye was turned tow^ards the sky to ascertain if it was favourable to our wishes and the proposed amusement of the day. JOURNAL OF A LADY. 103 All above, gave promise of the full enjoyment hoped for below^. Contrary to the usual custom, there was no stopping after breakfast to chat in the ball room, nor loitering at the Spring or on the w^alk, but all (the ladies) hastily retreated to their cabins to change their morning costume, and decide upon one more becoming the day's excursion. Dresses, that had long been imprisoned in the imperial, were now brought out, to do honor to the occasion. As each lady had been requested to don her favourite colour, no little hesitation ensued as to the adoption of blue, pink, green, &c. Even good old Mrs. entered into the excitement, and emancipated from the band box, a new blonde cap, that had been carefully put by in reservation for the President's reception. We had the pleasure of seeing depart at an early hour the wagon, containing the numerous refresh- ments, and about ten o'clock, the sound of many carriages approaching the different rows to receive their destined inmates — the cries of children at being left behind — the calling of amas for their daugh- ters, who having been ready for the last half hour, were now making sure, at their glasses, of their bonnets being tied, with a due regard to a becoming inclination to their left side, their ringlets being just enough out of curl to look interesting ; and the merry laugh of these as returning with renewed confidence, 104 WUITE SULPHUR PAPERS. they jumped gayly into the carnage, family barouche — or more exclussive buggy, all announced the sig- nal of departure, and in obedience to its call, we were every one on our way to the scene of enchant- ment, by eleven o'clock. Every description of vehicle on the place was put in requisition ; even an old sleigh was allowed to remain stationary only because wheels could not be found to attach to it. We followed the Lewisburg road, as far as Greenbriar mountain, then diverging suddenly, we found ourselves free from dust, and pursuing a winding road through the woods; at about twelve o'clock, we were brought within a quarter of a mile of our destination ; this last part of our jaunt we were to make on foot, much to the distress of Miss Lilly, who never having been on a pic-nic in the mountains, picturing to herself a smooth turf and a dance on the green, had ventured out in satin shoes, which were but little calculated to en- counter the stones, logs, and brambles which we were now crossing at every step. The spot selected for our rendezvous was a large green, some yards in extent, enclosed on one side by abrupt and overhanging rocks at whose base, bub- bled a clear and beautiful spring, and precluded from the road by rows of thick branching trees. Around were thrown immense logs of trees, which JOURNAL OF A LADY. 105 were to serve us as seats, and the wild rose and honey-suckle were growing in the vicinity. A table of rude planks had been hastily put toge- ther, on which the servants were busily employed ill laying the cloth, and making the necessary prepa- rations for our dejeuner a la forchette. And as an hour would elapse before their arrangements would be completed, the merriest of us determined to employ our time on a voyage of discovery through the neighbouring woods. We wandered for half an hour, penetrating the darkest and most romantic looking glades, and making bouquets and wreaths of the wild flowers. Our progress at one time was somewhat retarded Dy a broad stream, which required no little activity to clear. Miss J being somewhat timid, Mr. gallantly caught her up in his arms, and bore her across, amid the bravos of the gentlemen, and the approving smiles of the ladies. Upon our return, we found the rest of the com- pany in high glee, and awaiting our reappearance. The collation had by this time been spread, and very soon the champaigne was circulating, and merriment prevailed, while the band of music, stationed in the trees at a httle distance, played their sweetest tunes, though their sounds were nearly lost in the peals of our own laughter and delight. Chairs being scarce, 106 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. many preferred taking their cold chicken iete a tete on a log, or forming a partie carree on some neigh- bouring stumps made comfortable seats, by the gen- tlemen converting their cloaks into cushions. Mr, , of Virginia, sung his charming songs, accom- panied by his guitar, his example was followed by several of the company, ladies and gentlemen, and four hours went by gaily and swiftly. The younger portion were somewhat startled at being told that it was time to go. Some one of the party had a London paper, printed in gold letters, giving an account of the late coronation, and before we departed, at the suggestion of Mr. , we all drank, in champaigne, the health of Queen Victoria ! We arrived at the Springs in fine time for the ball, which passed off in uncommon brilliancy. Miss Lilly's satin slipper came into play, with much more effect than in our morning's ramble, and she enjoyed her dance to the utmost, though it was not on a green turf, and after a shepherd's pipe. Tuesday, . The pic-nic of yesterday, and the ball of last night, have been all the talk to-day. The ball was uncom- monly brilliant and the dancer's were gay and spi- rited. The L 's were to have left this morning JOURNAL OF A LADY. JJOi and this was their farewell ball ; we lose at their departure some of our most esteemed acquaintances, who have joined with us in all our sports for the last six weeks. This is one of the horrors of a watering place : the parting with friends with w^hom we have been thrown together in so many intimate ways during the season, and friendships thus formed by persons who are strangers on their first meeting, are generally of the most agreeable and endearing kind, and often the most lasting. We have had much of the scene of last night be- fore us, in our cabin this morning, from the amuse- ing descriptions of persons and things, by P . He is a great caricaturist, but is very good natured. This is a talent which is entertaining at times, when not too far indulged in, or too much encouraged. He says there was no room for him to dance, so he took his station by the piano as an observer. He described all the elderly ladies seated round the room on the settees, with their blonde caps, giv- ing: countenance to the dance, and with the double view of engaging the attention of a distinguished Bachelor. The young women who stand in each recess in groups, knowing no partner, and not danc- uig, he styles as wall-flowers. He decries most vehe- mently against gentlemen carrying their hats in the cotillion, as a mark of indifierence to their partners 108 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. and the other dancers. And he says that the country beaus who appear with their black stocks and big shoes eat up all the refreshments. We never knew before, that the entertainments which are so abun- dantly supplied at the balls, is afforded by the liber- ality of the proprietors. Waiters are handed during all the evening with wine and other inviting nic-nacs. In the great variety of dressing here, and in the eccentricities of taste, many ladies of very small stature wear feathers and turbans, wdiich P describes as very unbecoming. He thinks it requires a woman of very fine figure and appearance to do credit, to a feather or a tur- ban. In alluding to a young lady who persists in wearing a red spencer every night; he assured us that it was not the damsel's fault — that she was quite uneasy in her dress, and averse to coming to the balls, but that her grandma each evening after tea, fastens on her red jacket, and bids her go forth to subdue and make her fortune. He told us, our remarks on dress, reminded him of having once been at an election ball at a tavern somewhere in Maryland, where he was introduced to the daughter of the host, a pretty sprightly girl ; that when he first saw her she was dressed in white, — and at the close of every two sets of cotillions, she would disappear, and reappear in a new color. JOURNAL OP A LADY. 109 He had seen her in white, pink, blue, green, and yel- low, and upon complimenting her on her last appear- ance, she remarked that "she had only made six changes, that there was one more to come, and then she should shine." Thursday^ , We have been occupied this morning in pressing flowers, many of them wild ones, which grow in such luxuriance here, and some of rare beauty. We will take them home, and they will serve to remind us at some future day, of our present enjoyments and pleasures. Some several years hence they will look as fresh as ever, and the rose leaves will have a sweeter per- fume than now ; while our faces may be withered and we no no longer beautiful. Horrid thought, — but nevertheless 'tis true. Some of these flowers have been presents to us from friends we may never see again, and some we have gathered on sunny mornings in the woods, when all around us was bright and beautiful, and gay hearts accompanied us. They will remain here in their imprisoned sheets, silent but speaking memorials of days that were fra- grant to us. 10 110 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. The most minute incidents of our life, often lead to the most important results in our after dealings, and those whose lives are most crowded with strongly marked events, can generally trace their origin to some trifling circumstance, hardly chronicled in the memory on the occurrence, and that would quickly fade from the mind if they were not really the start- ing links in the great chain of human events. How often has a kind look given the first impulse to the quick throb of love so ever ready to vibrate in the human heart. How often has a leaf been the mute though eloquent messenger of communicating tender thoughts from heart to heart, and finally united in destiny, the giver and receiver. How of- ten too alas ! has the slightest incidents separated for ever, those who but for its occurrence, would have united in one, like two summer clouds ; or moved in unison like the meeting of two mountain streams. — August 25th. The gentlemen have all gone to a great dinner given to the President, at the Greenbriar bridgeto-day , and the ladies are left entirely to themselves. I sent some English newspapers to Mrs. this morning, which we had received from New York, ^he is very fond of such reading, and though 7io one line escapes her vigilance, her memory is so short. JOURNAL OF A LADY. Ill or SO little troubled with what she reads, that you may send her the same journal three times over, and she will peruse it as eagerly as at first. This is the last week in August, and many talk of leaving very soon. A large number of oui' acquaintances are only waiting for rain. Our Baltimore friends in Carolina Row, leave us to-morrow. They will remain one week at the Sweet Springs, then to the Warm — the great gathering place at the close of the season, and then home. As the houi' of parting and the close of the season draw near, we all begin to feel a little melancholy, but there must be an end to all pleasure, and why should we grieve, who have run through such a season of delight. Thanks to some Troubadours for a sweet seren- ade last night. Sept. 4. More than two hundred persons, nearly one half of our company, will leave here by Saturday, and in another week there will not perhaps be one hun- dred at the White Sulphur. We remain near two weeks longer. We understand from those who have experienced it, that the latter part of September is the most pleasant period in the mountains, and that during the month of October, they have here, the finest Indian Summer, which continues until near 112 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. Christmas. Most persons leave here too soon. On the general day of breaking up, the first Monday in September ; all follow, save a few Southern families, and some of the lovers of nature. The President is at the Sweet Springs, and we hear the place is crowded with company. The ladies of our party, and a few of our friends, are going on a serenading expedition to night. September 10. ***** Another week gone, and nearly all our friends have departed, we have been taking leave during that time — each morning and evening with tears in our eyes of our many acquaintances. The S's. were the last to leave us to-day, as their carriage drove round by Carolina Row, the gentlemen and nearly all the company present waved their handkerchiefs, and they departed with universal regret. We all 'elt lonely for the remainder of the day. Several entire rows are closed ; and the lawn is quite silent. Mr. Anderson is not so busy now, he has called at our cabin several times in the last few days, to know if we wanted a chair or a second table. The ball room is deserted; we formed but one cotillion last evening, and the musicians seemed quite out of spirits. •JOURNAL OF A LADY, US The evenings are now most beautiful for walking ?vnd driving. I took a solitary walk this evening to the top ot the hill, near the Colonnade,and satdown,and thought of all that had passed since our first arrival at the Springs. Itwasat thetime of sunset,and the golden hues were tingmg the green trees of the moun- tains; the air was soft— the sky unclouded; singu- lar feelings came over me, and I fell into a dreaming reverie. Are there not timest say Mrs. Jamieson— " when we turn with indifference from the finest picture of nature-tlie most improving book-the most amusing poem; and when the very commonest and every day beauties of nature, a soft evening, a lovely land- scape, the moon riding in her glory through a cloud- ed sky, without forcing or asking our attention sink into our hearts V I thought of the many bright faces, and gay hearts, with whom we had mingled this summer- the loves, and the courtships-and the pleasures of each passing day. All were now gone. The com- pany had separated for their respective homes: Some had come, fresh, and alive for novelty and enjoyment, and had left delighted: Some with hearts beating with love,andanxiousfor conquest, had gone away disappointed. Some who had been more for- 10* 114 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. tunate in their feelings, and attachments ; and in the attentions they had received, had left, pleased, and anticipating future happiness. September 12. We have had a letter from the Warm Springs, the place is thronging with company, and they all knowing each other, enjoy themselves exceedingly. The ball room we hear is very brilliant, and all are in the finest spirits. They make excursione there, during the evening, to the Warm Spring Rock, to the top of which a Virginia lady once ascended on horseback ; where they the eye feasted, and the soul drink in inspiration from the glorious beauties of the surrounding scenery. Near the Warm Springs also, is a tumbling cata- ract, of more than two hundred feet in fall, which but few have ever visited. We shall certainly go there on our return. We are to leave the White Sulphur to-moiTOW morning after breakfast. We have been round to take leave of all who are here. We have visited for the last time, this evening, each spot made dear JOURNAL OP A LADY. 115 to US from association ; and taken a lingering fare- well look of them all. We looked in at the ball room at nine o'clock. There were but four ladies present, and the music was endeavouring in vain to call forth the spirit of the dance. I am afraid te read to night anything what I have heretofore written in my jom*nal. I have been re- creant to my intention ; have put down but half what I should ; and neglected to insert many better things, Hark, there is music ; 'tis a farewell serenade be- neath our window. They are playing and singing " Home, sweet home." No whisper ! — hear That soft, sweet song, To me most dear. I've lov'd it long. It comes to me at the silent night, And it fills the soul with calm delight. I've heard that strain In times before, Breathe it again ; I'll ask no more. My heart goes back — and I long to roam, In the garden paths of my own home. 116 WRITE SULPHUR PAPERS. TJiursday, SepL 1 3, . We have breakfasted. Our carriages are at the door, and we will leave it in a few minutes. Our friends are in the piazza, come to say " Good bye." These are the last lines I shall write in my journal, and I have but one moment more. The maid who is strapping my trunk, is almost in tears ; and says she is sorry we are going. We are called. I must conclude. Farewx'll, White Sulphur. Farewell to thy scenes and thy pleasures, and thy oak shades, and thy beautiful fountain ; farewell to Paradise Row, and the Gothic cottage, and the Colonnade. Good bye, Mr. Ander- son ; good bye, Davy, Duncan. Farewell to von all! THE STORY OF A CRUTCH, 119 CHAP. X. THE STORY OF A CRUTCH PART I. They call me an old crutch now. I don't know what I may be hereafter; but I too dearly remem- ber what I have been. I wish I was back m my primitive days again, showering down acorns from the old oak on the Httle boys, and where the wild pigeons came twice a year and made love on the branches, and told of the sights they had seen in other places far away. Those were happy times]; there's pleasure in the woods. It was an evil hour when the chopper came, and with his axe felled the lofty pride of the forest — so all used to call our tree as they passed. I remember havinor been carried alono^ with other timber to the navy yard at Philadelphia, where I remained for some time. Parts of our old parent went off to sea in ships; but I was thrown by, being a small affair. 120 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. among the waste wood. When, one day, oh ! horror of horrors ! I was manufactured into a crutch, for an invalid sailor, at the marine hospital. My master had been in the wars in early life, and had fought in the battles of his country on lake Erie, where he had been slightly wounded, and now w"as a pensioned sufferer on the government. He was a right good old man; but, whenever he got excited, fighting over the last action, which he did to every new comer, he would bring me down on the stone pavement, or iron railing, or some other hard sub- stance, and I became near being banged to a splinter ; then it was that I thought of the pigeons, and the acorns, and wished that I had been sent to sea with mast and spar. My old master at length took sick, and was con- fined to his straw bed for some months; during which time, I had some respite in walking, but was used as a call-boy, by pounding the floor tw^enty times a day. I was demanded one morning, in a case of necessity, for an officer who came to the hospital with a fractured leg, and having been orna- mented with a red cushion at top, and sawed off two inches below, (no end to my sufferings,) I became the supporter of dignity with an epaulet I was not confined, however, to the precincts of the sailors' enclosure any more, but made occasional STORY OF A CRUTCH. 121 excursions with my new master, who was fast recovering, into the city, and among the fashions of Chestnut-street. The lieutenant soon became as th ed of his quar- ters as I was, and to our gratification, was invited by a relation to remain in the city. I soon parted from him, however, for, recovering from his wound, he had no further service for me, and he made me a present to an old friend, a sea captain, who had just returned in a merchantman from a long cruise, and was confined with the gout at the City hotel, where I was condemned to undergo all the tortures of his bad temper. My master would sit in his room at night, drinking brandy and water, and, stirring me around in the fire, would say, "I'll burn my crutch if I don't have vengeance." He always swore by his crutch. One night he took it into his head that he would go to the theatre ; whilst there, in the saloon, taking imaginary offence from the remark of some by-stand- er, he raised me, and struck the gentleman over the head ; and, in the disturbance and row that followed, crutch and captain were taken to the watch-house forthwith. Here, while the evidence was being given, I was handled by watchmen, and gazed at by the crowd ; the captain all the time swearing like a trooper. Bail was given, and we were released from 11 122 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. the wretched hole. The captam never left his room after that mght ; he w^ent off suddenly, very shortly afterwards, with an apoplectic fit, brought on by hard drink. In a few days I was carried, along w^ith the effects of my late owner, to auction, and sold, ay sold, for a less sum than was given for the brass tacks in my cushion. I was bought by a physician, who wanted me for a patient that had been suffering a long time with a complication of diseases, and with the most acute pains in his limbs. He had tried every remedy recommended by the faculty, and visited many of the principal w^atering places, without effect. I am now with this gentleman, a man of large fortune and taste ; but who is deprived of every enjoyment on account of his health. He has at last been recommended by some wise person to bathe in the waters of the Hot Springs, in Virginia ; and thither we depart to-morrow morning. I am delighted at this ; for, ever since the fracas at the theatre, and the scene at the watch-house, I have been anxious to leave this place, and get among new people and scenes. STORY OF A CRUTCH. 123 PART II. It is related that a gentleman came to the Hot Springs from the north, in a very low state of health; he came there to bathe, but being too feeble to pro- ceed as far as the White Sulphm% to drink those waters preparatory to using the bath, they were brought fresh to him regularly every morning, at some expense, from that place. In a week or two he commenced bathing, and tried them all — the spout-bath, the boiler, and the pleasure-bath ; and was soon able to take part in the raging amusements of the place — chess and backgammon; and he looked forward very anxiously to the day when he migh join the dancers at the other Springs. He was often tempted, as it was, to ride over to the Warm, and look in on the ball-room, but he was ashamed of his crutch in such company ; and supported by this faithful companion under his right shoulder, he would often soliloquize, and lament his hard fate. He little knew the virtues of this crutch. One morning, after some weeks of continual bathing and care, he went into the pleasure-bath, still requiring the assistance of his crutch. There was no one in the bath that morning. He thought he felt uncommonly well ; his whole frame seemed more elastic than usual ; his spirits were exhilarated 124 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS to a greater degree than he had known them for years ; he was once more in Chestnut-street. He stood erect ; he walked over the bath a well man, without any assistance. After his first transports of delight, he suddenly thought of his crutch ; it was not with him. Had it left him, or had he come into the bath without it? Certainly not. Where was it? He passed his hands over his eyes ; was he dreaming? There was the crutch directly opposite, in the same erect attitude as himself He advanced towards it ; followed it round and round the bath many times, surprised at his own vigor and activity. The crutch in his imagination assumed a new shape ; he thought he saw a dancing leg capering in the stream ; he tried his own ; they were well and nim- ble. He heard an approaching noise of the cripples coming in at their regular time. What would happen now? He was a man of reading and romance, and had heard of stranger things and wasn't disposed to be over curious or surprised; he determined to keep the secret, and left the bath. The cripples entered th« bath ; they saw notliing surprising. In a little while, one who had been a bather much longer than the rest, thought he saw a leg; he pursued it in silence, until he danced him- self; he kept the secret for fear of being laughed at How many have since followed that leg around STORY OF A CRUTCH. 125 this stream, it has never been known; but there it is said to be still dancing, invisible to all but the helpless sojourner, who only beholds it after some weeks of probation at the Springs. The original invalid who came with the crutch to the Springs, left very suddenly, to avoid all que s- tions and remarks on his recovery; and often after- wards, whenever he heard that a friend had gone to the Springs, would be heard to remark, *I hope he may see the dancing leg.' 11 126 CHAP. XL BEAVER-DAM FALLS THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. Among the many attractive spots for wild scenery, and natural curiosities, which have as yet been discovered in this picturesque region of our land, are Beaver-Dam Falls, within a few miles of the Sweet Springs. It is a favorite drive of an afternoon for many gay parties of pleasure from the Sweet, and many come over from the White Sulphur to write poetry under the shade of the dark rocks, and listen to the singular murmuring of the waters which abound with petrefactions of the prettiest kind. It is off from the road in a silent retreat, where the old trees which have been flourishing there for cen- turies, seem only to change their appearance in wearing a darker dress every year; and look as if guarding the glassy stream which has for so long a BEAVER-DAM FALLS. 127 time reflected their branches, as part of their own province, defending it from the sun. The beavers formerly held possession of all this neighbourhood, and many of their little residences in the shape of bee-hives are still to be seen here. The dam at the Falls was fashioned by their own hands, and here they lived, until poetry and nature, giving way to civilization, the beavers left the country, or were anniliilated. So romantic a place can hardly have failed to have given rise to tales of love and romance. Con- nected with its celebrity, is an incident of life of recent occurrence, which is here written in verse. THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. w 131 THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. In times of late, there was a fair young maid ! Whose soft poetic and romantic mood, By shaded stream — and water fall and glade, Oft sent straying in her solitude. She was more handsome than some women are ; Dark eyes — fine form — and pretty foot withall And few maidens with her could compare, In dance, or grace, or waltzing at the ball. Ah me I how many fine young men I've seen, Sighing for love of her, and twining flowers, In sweet bouquets, of pinks and mjnrtle green; To lend a fragrance to her laughing hours. In rides by day — in w^alks by silent night. But I misname , for in this happy place, There's nothing dark : — 'tis soft moon-light, Or day come back with poetry and grace. 132 THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. At all these times, the courted and the gay; The life — the laughing beauty of the tlirong ; She gave so much to wing the time away, With flasliing wit, with music, and with song. Some there were ; — you'll meet them every where They are, perhaps, at most a harmless set: Who said that other women were as fair ; And as for her they thought her a coquette. . Their dark wliispering often she had heard ; But what cared she, to her it was the same If envy even in the fancy word, Did style her grace by any other name. But we digress — there was within a mile In distance, from the sweet, sweet Springs — How oft the thought of them an hour beguiles ; A^Tiat witcliing joys their recollection brings. There was within a wild and rugged glen Half seen, half shaded from the passing view ; Where long ago the beaver made his den — A spot wliich legend and romance well knew. THE MAID OF THE CASCADE. 133 There was a rock, that hung above the stream, which softly flowed in beauty through the glade; And where it stopped, what broke its quiet dream 1 The falhng waters of a bright cascade. 'Twas said if on that rock, engraven there By maiden hand, a lover read his name, That then by all most beautiful and fair, Her hand ! her snow-white hand, he then could claim. There she determined in a merry mood, To write a name that none of them could read. " 'Twill puzzle all," she said, " make a prelude To other farces" — but now to proceed. One evening, long before the sun had set ; On foot alone, on sportive mischief bent. This laugliing girl whom many called coquette, Had reached the spot — too late then to repent. As then she thought : and now with light step stealing, She trembling walks ; she pauses — looks around ; But hush! what noise] it comes now revealing No fearful thing; — the waters' murmuring sound. One step ; another : — she's there in her delight : Her trembhnghand with busy thoughts essayed To write some name— when giddy from the height She falls in the basin of the bright cascade. 12 134 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. There like a Nai'd, beneath the water's play, Struggling, her confusion to recover, All in the dancing stream in fright she lay,] Until rescued by a gallant lover. Some months went by ; the scene was changed, and now Where fairy forms are gliding to and fro ; And brightest smiles are wreatliing every brow, The girl of summer days is bending low. A falling veil of snowy whiteness covers Her dark hair : her hand she disengages, To take the token given by all lovers — The ring — the marriage cement of all ages. She was a Bride — their daily bliss now heightens Of him — and her who was the courted maid ! And 'mid the scenes their cherished mem'ry brightens Is their adventure at the bright cascade. SKETCHES OF CHARACTER AT THE SPRINGS. 137 CHAR XIL SKETCHES OF CHARACTER AT THE SPRINGS. The greatest variety of character is always to be met with at watering places ; and as our country is the land of originals, whoever goes forth in search of the curious and the picturesque, will be most certain to find it. Foreigners, ti'avelling, generally have very singu- lar notions about us ; and mistaken ideas as to the topography of the country : astonished at its extent as they advance, and wondering if there can be any tiling beyond. One would sometimes think that the United States was not laid down on the maps sold in London and Paris. A Swiss gentleman, who had been some time at the north, made a jaunt last summer from the White Sulphur to Guyandotte, for the purpose, as he said, of taking a view of " de Mississippi." 12* 138 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. He was asked, on his return, how he Uked the looks of the mighty stream ; but he was very shy of the subject ever after. The Mississippi river is many miles from Guyan- dotte. Many enquiries were made this summer for Col. P — ., the former gallant master of ceremonies, per choice, of the ball-room at the White Sulphur. He had grown grey in the service of his country and the fair; and the belles and beaus of the last six seasons have many flattering notices of him in their journals and recollections of those days. The Colonel had a way of preserving, by his example and tact, the best order among the gen- tlemen and the dancers ; he regulated the music ; introduced young ladies, who were strangers, to partners for the cotillion ; and a determined shake of the head from him, would throw a noviciate off his balance. He was a great favourite with the ladies and an asserter of their rigdts, and always had some humor- ous anecdote for them. He was the founder of a very useful society for the encouragement and pro- ^+ion of marria^re, which he verv whim sir,?, 11 v SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 139 Styled, " The Billing, Wooing and Cooing Society." The articles of the constitution were written on a long roll of pink paper, manufactured for the pur- pose, and signed by no less than seventeen hundred gentlemen, from all parts of the United States. It hung in the ball room on the wall, (even on Simdays) where its advocates would be constantly reminded of their faults, whenever they went amiss ; and it is said to have had a very beneficial effect on many young men. Many will remember, when during the summer of thirty six, then late in the season, when the ladies had given up, from fatigue or their own reasons, attending the ball room every evening; how the Colonel, in despair at not having a dance, gallantly placed himself at the head of the band, and went round and serenaded them all. This last appeal was irresistible, and the attendance was large so long as the Colonel remained. We hope to have the pleasure of again meeting the amiable Colonel at the same agreeable place, superintending and providing new pleasures for the fair, and in restored health and excellent spirits. 140 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. An hour at the Spring during the morning and evening, when the company all gather there, is the time for observation — where you may learn the news, survey the new comers ; and where diffident men take stolen glances at beauty. It is long before breakfast, just after sun rise, and rather cool; here comes a gentleman wrapped in his thick morning gown, with slippers and cap, he stops at the Spring, dips the long-handled glass and takes one draught ; he whistles himself awake, takes another, and then returns to Bachelor's row, to sleep an hour. There comes a maid with a pitcher to carry the cooling draught to some sleeping beauty in Paradise row. Tv/o old gentlemen have come to the Spring; they are discussing the merits and great benefits to be derived from the use of the waters. One of them says, he has been in the habit of taking six glasses for some mornings past, and he feels so much better, he believes he will now take eight. Numbers are coming in, impatient for their daily libations. Dyspepsia enters the area, weak and wasted ; he takes perhaps four glasses, and retires with a rencrvated walk. Hypochondria comes ; he sees no one for aw^hile, and will know no one ; he di'inks one glass, seats himself, and in a little while has taken four more ; he rises — tries to smile, and makes a remark on the weather. SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 141 The reveller of last night, drinks several times with rapidity ; he feels refreshed, and exclaims — Cheering draught to the poisoned soul, When it has been steeped in the purple bowl.- By this time, the area of the Spring is filling up. Ladies and young misses, old men with canes, inva- lids, and early risers ; and often you may see the blooming face of some young fair one, who prefers the breath of the morning air, to sleeping until breakfast. There is a small pale man in black; he has taken a seat and is resting with his chin on his cane; occasionally he raises his head, and gives an unmean- ing stare at some persons just entering the Spring- house, and with a look of apathy, he beholds, and hears the laughing talk of the gayer crowd around him. He is an invalid, and an entire stranger; go to him, and offer your hand — ask him how he feels this morning — if the waters benefit him ; he will thank you from his heart, and smile perhaps for the first time since his arrival. How much a kind word from any one, will gladden the heart of a poor invalid at a place like this ! the most trifling notice which costs you nothing vdll be to him a blessing: Remember this, young ladies! forget it not, Lo- thari«^'« ' 142 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. Within a few yards of us, is another Spring, where the noisy servants are drawing water for the cabins. But there's the breakfast bell, and now all hurry to the hall, with sharpened appetites. Five o'clock in the afternoon. We are at the Spring again. The first bell has rung. Unlike the gathering of the morning, they are coming in merry groups, all are wide awake. The robed bachelor of the morning, is now the gay Lothario. The veiled female of that hour, is now the attended belle at the Spring. The crowd is approaching from all the walks. The ladies, some with parasols, or a light kerchief over their heads — some on the arms of gentlemen — some walking alone, or in parties. Here comes one large gentleman with a lady on each arm, his wife and wife's sister, or he is an uncle with two nieces, but his convoy is too large to enter between the pillars, and he detaches one, who is joined by an acquaintance, to whom the large gentleman smiles a vote of thanks. The Spring is surrounded, there are but two dip- pers and many have to wait, which time is pleasantly filled up with lively talk, and the place resounds with the merry ring of some gay hearted laugh. The belles are here, and the beaux are not far off. Apart, you hear the remarks of the bystanders, SKETCHES OF CAARACTER. 143 on the beauty of some fair drinker, and the admira- tion of the distant gazers. Look at her, says one, how surpassingly beautiful. See — "She drinks — she drinks ; behold the matcliless dame; To her 'tis water — but to us 'tis flame." The ladies are dressed for tea, and many of them will go afterwards to the ball room in the same attire. By special invitation we were present at an en- tertainment given at the Wolf, in honor of the advent of the hunting season on the same evening. Who has been to the White Sulphur and not heard of the "Wolf?" it is almost as old as the Alhambra, and quite as celebrated in its way. It is a castle also, after its own style of architecture, and stands on the borders of Wolf Hill, and joins the row of the same name, and commands the finest view of the surrounding scenery and the mountains. It is orna- mented with two piazza's, or as a late Col. in the army used to say, it has a "Pizarro" in front, and a "Portorico" in the rear. This is the residence of Nimrod and the fox- hunters. The apartments are decorated with the trophies of many a successful days' sport, in the branching antlers of stags — brushes — bearskins— 144 WHITE SULPHUR P A P E R S« and a great variety of fire-arms — hunting dresses — and bugles — which are hung around. The party on this occasion numbered about twenty. The firing of a gun from the front door, (something new) was the signal that all was ready — and to notify absent guests who were expected, to be forth- coming. The table was spread with a most inviting repast, the delecate - productions from the limits of twenty miles : The noble deer was there before us, the spoil of the morning, in every shape in haunch, in stew and in stake — and barbecues and strange dishes, all novelties to a city man. In the centre of the table was something peculiar — it's name is nO| uncommon, mint-julap, but w^e had never seen one like this. The tumbler, if it can so be called, was of half gallon size, frozen on the outside, and so rich were the contents, the green herb was actually sprouting from the surface, or else very ingenously placed there. The top was ornamented with flowers, to make it more insinivating, as Capt. observed who sat near me. This was passed round to be looked at, various times, but it still appeared as original and as fresh as at the beginning ; or magic changed the glass. The enjoyment and merriment were rare — the characters were original — the stories were new and SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 145 good — and the songs were new; the traveller is seldom favored with such a treat. Claret was the general drink I believe among the Fox-hunters of old, but Hock appeared to be the favorite beve- rage here. And among the many sparkling songs was the following, which was dedicated to the virtues of Hock : Away with all grief — And let us be merry, And fill up the bumpers with wine ; But let it not be With Madeira or Sherry — But Hock ! give us Hock ! Sparkling Hock! from the Rhine. For Hock is the wine — And it comes from the Rhine — From the land of old legend and song ; And drink as we may The heart rises gay — As night with her shades, and her joys flies along. 13 146 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. When we drink of its nectar — The fancy in dreams, Wanders away to the soft flowing streams : To the land where the maidens Are tilling the vine — And pressing the grape On the banks of the Rhine. And now let it be — Tlu-o' this land of the free : Far and wide on her bright banners spread : While beauty shall shine — That Hock is the wine ; Thro' summer and winter 'till youth shall have fled. It was now late — and the serenaders being announced with their music, the party broke up, many of them to accompany these important cha- racters on their rounds, while the author of Peter Simple and myself, made our way to Georgia Row. Phrenology thrives well at the Springs, not because it is the only head profession here — but from there being so many persons at all places like this, who are very wiUing sometimes, to be made pleased with themselves when the cost is so little. SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 147 Several of the disciples of the science of Combe and Spurzheim, were on the ground during the sum- mer. I attended the lecture of one at the ball room. The author after expatiating largely upon the vast benefits arising to mankind from the art, blindfolded himself, and said he was ready to pronounce upon the head of any well known individual present. A little boy with a large head was sent up — he mounted the chair, and science began " remarkably fine head — the organs are very prominent — benevolence very large — I should say, he was a man whose whole course of a long life had been devoted to charitable objects — " here the audience smiled, and the little girls tittered, and the youngster came down ; and the lecturer went on to say, that he would examine heads that evening ; and furnish characters from dinner until dark at one dollar each. I never would throw a pebble in the way of science, and Phrenology no doubt is a very pleasant belief, for those who have flattering developments. "Old Charley" is a character who must not be forgotten, for he is a grand caterer of the mess-hall, and a great killer of sheep ; besides which he fills many important offices. He attends at the 'Wolf,' 148 WHITE SULPHUR PAPERS. on great occasions, and is the grave-digger, par excellence ; whenever that service is required, and he often complains that his spade gets msty, so few persons die here. He has performed many won- derful feats in his way; such as beating the best marksmen of the south and west, even some of those who have shot with Colonel Crockett. He has rode from the White Sulphur to Union, and bar^k, be- tween sun down and dark, to use his own words ; and he boasts of having taken in the knowing ones, when horses were the trade and good bargains were to be had. He has a red glassy eye, which he shoots at you sideways, with a very meaning expression ; and the boys and old women of the farms say he is a conju- ror; no wonder, when he has been seen to come from the direction of the grave yard at hours when but few else were stirring. He converses very freely sometimes, and when- ever the conversation is military, he has a tale about having seen "forty thousand Britishers at the bom- bardment of Fort McHenry, in 1809," and he will go over the whole battle very correctly and graphi- cally, according to his own notion. He will no doubt live a long time yet, and then disappear very suddenly, as most conjurors gene- rally do. SKETCHES OF CHARACTER. 149 Duncan is a hero, and I had almost forgotten him, though he never forgets the lodgers in Alaba- ma Row, which is his province, and so faithful and attentive that he never leaves it. Georgia Row is only a short distance off; but he knows about as much of its precincts as he would of that state, if questioned. He boasts of Scotch descent; and has the twang on his tongue : this perhaps, accounts for his super- stitious dread of the Jack O'Malanterns wliich are seen about the Spring of dark nights: he calls them great misleaders. Duncan expects a rich harvest next summer at the White Sulphur. 13 APPENDIX. 153 APPENDIX The White Sulphur Springs, owned by James Calwell, esq. in the county of Greenbriar, Virginia, are 260 miles from Washington, and 200 miles from Richmond. Travellers to the Springs from the North gene- rally come by the way of Washington, where they take the steamboat to Fredericksburgh 60 miles. The remaining part of the journey is by land travel over a very good mountainous road for the last 100 miles of the route. Travellers by the public stage reach Charlottesville at the close of the first day after leaving Washington, passing through Staunton on ths next; breakfasting at the Warm Springs on the morning of the third day, and arrive at the White Sulphur the same evening. The Warm Springs are forty miles this side of the White Sulphur on the same road. The Hot Springs are five miles beyond the Warm. The Red Sul- phur is 45 miles from the White. The Sweet Springs are sixteen miles from the White. The 154 APPENDIX. Salt Sulphur is 270 miles from Washington, 25 miles from the White Sulphur ; 22 miles from the Sweet Springs; 16 miles from the Red Sulphur, and 60 miles from the Hot and Warm Springs. The traveller enjoys even in the warmest days of July and August, a refreshing breeze during the morning and evening; riding generally from four o'clock A. M. until nine p. m. The time occupied by private conveyances from Fredericksburg to the White Sulphur in six days. APPENDIX. 165 The following Extracts are taken from a late English work, by Edwin Lee, of Cheltenham: — "The class of Sulphurous Waters is one of the most hn- portant and efficacious in the removal of many intractable diseases. The sulphur exists most frequently in combination with hydrogen gas, on which account these waters in general do not bear exportation. Carbonic acid gas and various salts, sometimes in large quantities, also enter into their composition. As they are exceedingly stimulating, their use requires much caution and discrimination, especially in weak persons of an irritible and nervous temperament, and in those disposed to congestion of the brain or lungs, or to hemorrhagic affections. Their action varies according to the manner of their ^exhibition, and to the peculiarities of individual cases. Used in the form of both their primary operation is on the skin increasing the activity of its capillary circulation and secretion, and on the system : their operation upon the mucous membranes and viscera being consequent to their action on the surface. "Internally taken, they act primarily upon the mucous membranes of the stomach and bowels, of the air passages or urinary organs. According to circumstances generally exciting the secretion of bile, and abdominal venous circu- 156 APPENDIX. jation: thus their sensible operation is aperient, diaphoretic, diuretic, or expectorant, according to the manner in which they are used, the constitution and disease of the- patient, the nature and quaUty of the sahne substances they contain. They may generally be employed with advantage in some atonic conditions of the circulation, especially of the abdomi- nal venous system giving rise to piles, and hephatic obstruc" tions; in affections of mucous memberanes accompanied with increased secretion, as clii-onic disease of the urinary aparatus with mucous discharge, and chronic pulmonary catarrh. In cutaneous and rheumatic aifections, they fre- quently prove more efficacious than any other class of reme- dies. Among the most powerful virtues of this class of Europe, are those of Aix La Chapelle, Baden near Vienna. Harrowgate and the Pyrenees. APPENDIX. 157 ACIDULOUS SPRINGS. " Under this head many writers on mineral waters place all those springs which contain a large proportion of free carbonic acid, They are for the most part cold, very spark- ling, and effervescing without smell, of a sharp piquant taste, and soon lose their properties by exposure to the atmosphere. Tlieir operation is cooling and refreshing, and at the same time exhilirating, altering the quality of the secretions of the alimentary canals and kidneys, and increasing their quantity. These waters are very commonly taken either pure or mixed with wine, as an ordinary beverage, and are not un- frequently exhibited in febrile and inflammatory complaints. They sometimes, however, prove too exciting, producing head-aches, heaviness, confusion of ideas, with general agitation and sleeplessness ; but are highly useful in many cases of dyspepsia, nervous affections, with the character of relaxation or torpor, pulmonary complaints, and diseases of the urinary organs. The sweet water is perhaps the best and most familiar water of this class." Under the above head may be classed the Sweet Sprmgs, in Monroe county, Virginia, which has been described in the preceding chapter. 14 158 APPENDIX. SALINE APERIENT SPRINGS. " Tliis class of Springs is distinguished from others iu containing as a predominating ingredient sulpliiate of soda, (Glauber's salt) or sulphate of magnesia, (Epsom salts) which sometimes exists in large quantities ; the other mi- neralizing substance, exist in comparatively small propor- tions. Some of these Springs are very ga&eous and of a high temperature, others are cold and contain but little gas. The Hot Springs are usually energetic in their action and exceedingly exciting to the system, generally stimula- mulating the vascular aparatus, and increasing the secre- tions. The cold ones are antiphylogestic, cooling, and aperient purgative, or diuretic, according to the quantity taken. They usually bear exportation well, and are less objectionable than the majority of mineral springs in states of vascular phethora, febrile affection, and conges- tion. Artificially prepared they are nearly as efficacious as the natural waters, especially the imitations of those which contain but little carbonic acid gas, manufactured Epsom, Seidlitz or Cheltenham salts are but little inferior in efficacy to those procured from the springs themselves, and are very commonly usedjin the ordinary practice of medi- cine. Seidlitz is a village in Bohemia, celebrated on account of its bitter purging water ; the predominating salt, is the APPENDIX. 159 sulphate of magnesia of which there are more than one hun- dred grains to the pint, as it is not gaseous, the water does not lose its properties by being carried to a distance, and is much exported." The waters of the white Sulphur Spring, have been bottled in large quantities during the present year, and exported to all parts of the United States. The waters of the Red Sulphur are also in pro- gress of being bottled by a gentleman, every way competent and active, and will be sent to any part of the Union, at a fair rate of expense. These several waters it is said, preserve their virtues and taste for any length of time ; the bottles being carefully sealed with wax, at the moment of being filled from the Spring. Mineral Springs may be divided according to iheiv temperature into Cold - at - 65°Farenheit Cool - from 65° to 77^ Tepid - • 77'' to 90° Warm - 90° to 98° Hot above - - 98° The temperature of the White Sulphur Spring is 60 ° Faren- The Red Sulphur - - - - 54° 160 APPENDIX. The Salt Sulphur has a temperature of 50° which is the same of those of Tunbridge, in England. The Warm Springs have a temperature of 97° Fa. The Sweet Spring water is nearly tepid at 73° Fa. At the Hot Springs, in Virginia, the temperature of the different baths verge from 103° to 106° They have the Gentleman's Hot Spout bath ; the Gentleman's Boiler or Sweat bath; the Lady's Boiler ; the Lady's Hot Spout bath. And in addi- tion to these four baths above mentioned, is the Pleasure bath, which is contained in an octagonal reservoir of thirty feet in diameter, and five feet deep ; there are two spouts of two inches diameter constantly pouring streams of hot water into the reservoir ; the temperature of this water is between 98° and 99° and the whole is covered by an octa- gonal building, furnished with a dressing room ; this bath is used alternately by ladies and gentlemen for periods of two hours. Baths are usually taken in the morning, two or three hours after drinking, at a temperature between 86° and 96°. They increase the activity of the cutaneous circulation and secretion ; perspiration being not unfrequently produced. They have also a sedative effect on the nervous system ; the pulse becomes slower while in the bath, and a tendency^ to sleep frequently supervenes. Acting on the APPENDIX. 161 surface of the body, they produce a revulsion from the internal organs, promoting their secretions, and diminishing visceral congestion. If taken at too high a temperature, baths act as stimulants, increas- ing the frequency of the pulse. Dr. Hunt, in his pamphlet, gives the following directions for using the water of the Red Sulphur : — ■ " Commence by taking one glass of water at bed time, and one before breakfast: after a few days, take two glasses at bed time, and two before breakfast; one at 11 A. M., and at 5 o'clock, p. m. This quantity will generaity operate freely on the bowels. If it is desired to act on the kidneys, increase the quaintity of water to three or four glasses, between a light supper and bed time, and the same quantity between day light and break- fast time ; two glasses at noon, and one or two glasses about 5 o'clock, p. m., taking care to exercise freely after drinking. According to Professor Rogers : — " Gaseous contents in an imperial gallon — " Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 4.54, cub. in. *' Carbonic acid, 8.75. "Nitrogen, 4.25. " Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, gr. 1, 26, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbo- 14* •^^ 162 APPENDIX. nate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredi- ents, the water contains, in considerable quantity, a pecu- liar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is de- posited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by a species of organic growth." " The Red Sulphur Water is decidedly sedative in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquilizes irri- tation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most astonishing manner. " It has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and it is true, that it has a most bene- ficial influence in most casses of this disease; but its good effects equally extend to all cases of sub-acute inflammation, ■vfhether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kid- neys, and most particularly in the mucuous membrane." Dr. Moorman, the resident physician of the White Sulphur Springs, thus enumerates the powers of those waters : — " In all attacks of a Bilious, class, a few days or at the farthest, a few weeks use of the waters, produces the most salutary results. The power of this water on all affections of the Liver, the largest and most important secretory organ of the body deserves particular attention ; volumes might be filled with details of results, most gratifying, that have taken place in the cases of innumerable invalids from all portions APPENDIX. 163 of the country, especially of the thousands from the warmer regions of the south. In all stages of Dyspepsia ; in Chronic Rheumatism ; in Paralysis; in Incipient Calculus; in Chronic Sephilis ; in Chlorosei; in Hemorrhoids, Hypochondrasis ; in all condi- tiones Ulcer of the Extremities ; in Cutaneous Eruptions ; in that enfeebled and peculiar condition of the system result- ing from the long protracted, or injudicious use of mercury, these waters have proved themselves most indisputably efficacious. The solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches of the White Sulphur Water, when dried at 212*; weighs 63.54. grains. This consists, according to Profes- sor Rogers, of Sulphate of Lime, Sulphate of Magnesia, Sulphate of Soda, Carbonate of Lime, Carbonate of Magnesia, Chloride of Sodium, Chloride of Calcium, Oxyde of Iron, Sulph. Hydrogen of Sodium, Phosphate of Lime, 164 APPENDIX. Organic Matter, Precipitated Sulphur. The gaseous matter consists of. Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Carbonic Acid, Nitrogen, Oxygen. ''As a wholesome and pleasant beverage, or as a corrector of thirst, the convalescent visitor may safely consult his own pleasure as to the time of taking the water, or the quan- tity to be taken. With such it may be used with safety and advantage at any time of the day; but with those in feeble health, much regard is due to both time and quantity. The custom that prevails at the fountain, of using it an hour or two before each meal, is generally correct with this qualification, that the larger quantity should be taken in the morning before breakfast. From two to six glasses of the water taken at this time, followed by smaller quantities before each succeeding meal, usually exerts a decided cathartic effect in the course of the day, and at the same time augments considerably the ordinary secretions of the kidneys. The effects of this v;ater, like all other medical agents, are much influenced by the condition of the stomach and bowels, at the time of using it, as well as by the state of the system generally. APPENDIX. 165 It therefore sometimes happens, that, in order to secure its full effects, larger quantities than those indicated are re- quired. Nor is much oppression of stomach apt to be experienced, by those enfeebled by disease, from much larger portions. So lightly does this water lie on the stomach, that invalids have been often known to treble the quantity above prescribed, without experiencing any mate- rial inconvenience therefrom. A slight acquaintance with the properties of the water, will, however, satisfy every one, tliat such inordinate quantities can be seldom necessary, or proper, whilst experience teaches that they are sometimes prejudicial. A serious error is frequently committed by invalids, at the very commencement of the use of the waters. Arriving at the Springs with systems morbidly excited by long or rapid travelling, and often with bowels obstinately costive, the invalid seeks the fountain, and hastily distends his stomach with enormous quantities of water, under the erro- neous notion that he is to be benefitted in proportion to the quantity taken, or upon the vague inference that " if a little is good more is better." The consequence of this procedure not unfrequently is a hasty determination in his mind that the water is unsuited to his case, " for it disagreed with him from the moment he took it." Under such an imprudent 166 APPENDIX- procedure, it could scarcely be expected to turn out other- wise. In the excited state of the system referred to, the water should be used sparingly at first — principally in the morning, and due care taken, if necessary to aid its opera- tion on the bowels by some of the means previously men- jioned^ THE END. W, Molineux, Printer, cor. of Ann and Nassau-streets, N. Y. \ \ -a (I . "^ •*^ ■bo" ^#A "= ■^^..^'^' .^"^^ ^i/K ^ ^. % .a'' ,\ ,\ <• Of /^ ^',^ s ^ "^x. .^^ --^^ A. ,^ ^ >'^" ■\ ; '"^ ^ -^- v^ ■'oo'< ^ SEPT. 68 '^f'^ N. MANCHESTER, ^ INDIANA