SF 493 Class O J ^^'^ Book_ GoiAii^lu!^^^ COPyRIGIIT DEPOSm SUCCESSFUL INCUBATION A WORKING MANUAL FOR LARGE HATCHING PLANTS BY P. COOK Proprietor OF the MAMMOTH BA.TCHERY LOS ANGELES CvWL. / Xf PRICE, ^l.OO NET PUBLISHED BY THE WEIMAR PRESS 301i5 S. MAIN ST.. LOS ANGELES.CAL. .^^' Copyright, 1 9 By P. Cook. Cci.a;jLhro>^itle«- p. Cook's continuous reading Hygrometer. Price, $3.00. DIRECTIONS FOR USING P. COOK'S HYGROMETER. Our hygrometer consists of two accurate thermometers, one of which has a muslin wick connected with a water cistern, attached to it. The whole instrument is placed in the machine like an ordinary thermometer. The evap- oration of water from the wick around the bulb of one thermometer causes this bulb to cool in proportion to the amount of evaporation. The drier the air in the incu- bator, the more rapidly will it evaporate water from the wick and thus cause the wet bulb to read lower than the dry bulb thermometer. Indirectly, the difference be- tween the two thermometers indicates the dryness of the air. This is the method used in the U. S. Weather Bu- reau, and it has published elaborate tables from which 27 the relative per cent of humidity can be learned if once the depression of the wet bulb thermometer is known. We print here a part of these tables as far as they are of use for incubator purposes. For instance, if the dry bulb stands at 103 and the wet bulb at .S3, there is twenty degrees difference, i. e., there is twenty degrees depres- sion on the wet bulb. The wet bulb thermometer is technically called a psychrometer. From the table it will be seen that there is 42 ])er cent relative humidity in this case. Or if the dry bulb registers 100 degrees and the Psychrometer S2 degrees, there is IS degrees depres- sion, and it is found from the table that in this case there is 46 per cent humidity. rSY( H ROMKTER TABLES. iture of rmometei Deiiise* of DepreuioQ of Psychi otnetet 1' 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 98 100 102 50 51 52 48 49 49 45 46 47 43 44 45 40 38 41 39 42 40 36 37 38 B r 103 52 53 53 49 50 51 47 45 42 40 38 104 106 48 49 46 46 43 44 41 42 39 40 For practical purposes it is much easier, however, to disregard these moisture percentages. It is enough to know that when your thermometer reads 103 degrees and the Psychrometer 83 to 85, your machine is working properly and no further attention need be paid to it. Ordinarily, if an incubator is once started righi, and our other instructions for closing the ventilators, etc., have been followed, there will be no need to use a hygro- meter, as the moisture does not generally vary much dur- ing a hatch. Nevertheless, it will soon pay to be in possession of a hygrometer, but as our larger instrument costs three dollars, it is too costly for the man who has only a small machine. We have, therefore, designed a much cheaper instrument, which is just as reliable, but takes a little more trouble to use it. This is simply an accurate Thermometer reading down to 75 degrees. A thin piece of muslin is tied around the bulb, this is dipped in luke-warm water and then inserted into the incubator, through a hole bored in the door. It is left there for ten minutes and then partly pulled out to see how low it reads. Its lowest reading, just before the muslin is completely dried out is its correct reading. A number of readings should be taken, the lowest one is the most correct. The incubator should not be opened be- 28 fore inserting the Psychrometer. Remember the differ- ence between it and your thermometer indicates the mois- ture. If your incubator stands at only 100 degrees, then 80 degrees on the Psychrometer indicates proper hatch- ing humidity. It is twenty degrees difference that is required. Use your table unless your incubator stands at 103 degrees. The simplified instrument is sold for $1.00, and will be found a most excellent help. Only one instrument is needed no matter how many incubators are used, as moisture does not need to be taken oftener than in the beginning and two or three times during the hatch. We are aware that these directions require much drier air thany many manufacturers advise, but we have in- quired among many hatchers and we have not heard of one of them that has succeeded in securing good hatches at any other percentages the great claims of some hygrometer makers notwithstanding. It should be remem- bered however, that our figures are for incubators with perfectly still air, i. e., without any ventilation. Still air is not nearly as drying as air in motion. From our standard hatching table it will be seen that during the exclusion of the chicks we allow 9 2 on the Psychrometer. This is normal and need not be changed unless chicks are breathing heavily or standing with their mouths open. This indicates too much moisture, as often as too much heat. Ventilators must then be opened, or if the machine has no ventilators, open the doors for a minute and let the moisture escape. As soon as the hatch is over, see that enough air is admitted into the machine to dry out and fluff up the chicks properly. Sprinkling the eggs will never do them any good; its only effect is to chill them, and if they hatch at all, they hatch in spite of it. In fact nothing that is done to the eggs for a few minutes during the last week, helps tliem in any way. We seldom ever find any need of moisture during hatching time, only if something is seriously wrong with the incubator moisture will help to over- come its defects. Shut your machine tight until pipping time, and do not open it till chicks begin to show signs of the need of more air. Some Tyi)ical Tests of Moisture Under Setting Hen. 7 a. m. Outside air near hen's nest temperature 5 2 degrees, moisture full saturation or 100 per cent, moisture under the hen, 49 per cent. 12, noon, temperature out- side, 74 degrees; moisture 5 8 per cent; moisture under the hen, 40 per cent. 5 p. m. Temperature 66, moisture 61 per cent. Moisture under the hen 40 per cent. In all the numerous tests we have made, we always found much less moisture under the hen than in the air around her. As she heats the air in her nest, it would naturally reg- ister drier than the outside air, unless she supplied mois- ture from her body, but as all tests show this is not the 29 case. The hen does not sweat through her skin and it seems that her feathers asbsorb the evaporation from the eggs. We had one White Rock hen sitting on damp ground and the moisture under her always ran between (>0 to 65 per cent, but all the germs rotted in the shell, only three lived till the 21st day, but did not hatch. The other tests above given are from hens that brought oCf normal hatches. Where we made daily tests for moisture, the hens al- ways brought off poor hatches, due no doubt to disturb- ing the hens too much. HELPING CHICKS OUT OP THE SHELL. There is little use to help chicks out of the shell when they have not been properly incubated, but in the moult- ing season we have sometimes found that the stragglers can be helped to advantage. A chick should never be helped too early, and unless it is plump and in every re- spect perfect when helped out, it is not worth anything In the time that eggs are naturally fertile, all chicks will usually pop out without any help. Chicks too weak to get out then is a sure indication of faulty incubation. No chicks should be helped out until the hatch is nearly over. TYPICAL WEIGHTS OF A GOOD HATCH. 100 Fresh eggs, 11% lbs. 100 clear eggs 10 ibs., 6 oz. (1.5 days in incubator), at 85 Psychrometer reading.) 100 chicks 8 lbs., 1 oz. GOOD HATCHES ATTRIBVTED TO WUONG CAUSES. Here it is well to point out that frequently good hatches are attributed to wrong causes. Mr. "A" puts a pan of water under his eggs, the last few days, or sprinkles them or gives more ventilation, etc., and has a good hatch. He concludes this is the thing to do. But it may have had nothing whatever to do with the good hatch. The fact is that strong eggs hatch well in spite of a good many things. We dropped a tray of eggs once. Two-thirds of the eggs cracked. (16th day of incuba- tion.) We patched them up with celloidin and they all produced remarkably strong chicks. Nevertheless, cracking eggs is not the best way to hatch them. It should be remembered, the critical period of incubation are the first six days, and it may almost be said, that it does not matter what happens after that. Certainly eggs will stand quite a lot of abuse after that and still hatch well. So far as ventilation is concerned, it may be said that most arrangements do not work, which is their recommendation. If the ventilators of the incu- bator actually get to work, then they produce mischief. If the incubator is placed in a room where the air is still, there is but very little ventilation going on inside the machine, but if the air of the room gets in motion, 30 it will be sucked through the ventilators of the incubator, and a spoiled hatch will follow. Too much ventilation produces small, scrawny chicks with protruding bowels, etc. A spoiled hatch from too much ventilation is about the sickliest sight imaginable. The glowing claims of incubator manufacturers that their machines change the air ever so often, are fortunately not often true, but when they are true their machines fail to hatch. It is not known whether the amount of carbonic acid gas has anything to do directly with hatching, for it varies greatly under different hens. It may be that all that is required is absolutely still air in the incubator. In still air the gases do not diffuse very readily. We found in one machine that had eggs only on one tray, twice as much carbonic acid gas as on the other tray without eggs. As a rule, there is a little more at the bottom than near the top of the machine, which is natural, since the carbonic acid gas is heavier than air. The fact remains, however, that eggs under the hen are incubated under the pressure of a very large amount of carbonic acid gas. This was found true even of a tiny bantam hen that weighed only about one pound, but the percentage of carbonic acid gas under her was as great as under the large hens. This proves conclusively, that there is no so-called ventilation under the hen, nor any diffusion of the natural gases, or the carbonic acid gas would have been carried away. The chief value of these measurements, as we regard it, is in the fact that they pointed out the right way to build an incubator, i. e., one that surrounds the eggs with still air, and thus produces conditions similar to those under the hen. There is, of course, no reason to believe that carbonic acid gas itself helps the hatching. It is a waste product of the respiration of the embryo but em- bryonic respiration is a decidedly different process from respiration of the full grown hen, and a large amount of carbonic acid gas may not be detrimental, or it may have a sort of symbiotic action, but such consideration we may leave to the professional biologist. Ordinarily the user of the incubator need not test the carbonic acid gas. Let him follow our directions in con- structing his machine, and he will not generally experi- ence trouble. However, the carbonic acid test is the only reliable guide to the ventilation. METHOD OF HATCHING IN P. COOK'S MAMMOTH HATCHERY. (The method here given has reference to incubators sold commonly to the public, as this will be of great use to persons who already possess incubators. The prin- ciple is exactly the same as that followed in Mr. Cook's own mammoth machines.) The first thing that is done is to see that the incubator is in good working order, the lamp burning properly and lamp fountain not leaking and thermostat in perfect 31 order. Then the door Is examined, and if it does not fit air-tight, strips of felt are nailed around the edges, so as to make it fit tight. One or two layers of burlap or cotton batting are placed in the bottom of the ma- chine to make it warm enough below the eggs. The temperature at the bottom of the incubator should never be allowed to fall much below 90 degrees. If it is colder than that cripples are sure to result. If the machine has nursery diawers, it is best to fill these up with straw or cotton for the first two weeks at least. If the machine has no nursery the temperature at the bot- tom of the egg-tray should be at least 100 degrees. When the machine is heated up, the thermometer is placed in position where the top of the eggs would come and the regulator adjusted to hold the machine at 103 degrees. The machine is kept going for a day or so with ventilators open in order to dry it out. Then a hygro- meter is also placed into it and watched till it sinks to 83 degrees. It may take several days to dry out the ma- chine sufficiently. Then the ventilators are all closed and the hygrometer read again. If it stands between SO and 83 degrees, it is all right. If it stands above that, the machine must be further dried out. There is not much probability of a good hatch if the hygrometer at the beginning of a hatch remains as high as S7 for more than a day. We had to run one machine for three weeks, before it became dry enough for hatching. If you cannot make your machine dry enough do not waste your eggs on it. We have never come across a machine too dry, if all its ventilators are closed. Next the egg trays are taken and fitted with a me- chanical turning rack as described elsewhere. The eggs are placed on the tray with the turning rack in position. They are laid flat on the side and not crowded. You can get more eggs into the machine by standing them on edge, or even by doubling them up, and the strong eggs will hatch that way, but the weaker ones will die in the shell. But remember, what is not good for the weaker eggs, is no benefit to the stronger ones either. Do not begin the poultry business by abusing your chicks before they are born. It is knocking your profits with a club on the head. When the eggs are on the tray, thermometer and hygro- meter are then placed in position and all outgoing venti- lators are shut tightly. The best way to do this is to stuff a tuft of cotton into the holes. It need not be stuffed very tightly. Those machines that have the air intake over the lamp or around the heater, need only to have the outlets closed, for as soon as these are closed no more air passes through them into the machine. On other machines all ventilators must be closeor. The eggs are turned by the mechanical turner after six hours and after that every twelve hours apart, but under no conditions must the machine be opened for the first 72 to S4 hours. 32 On the morning of the fourth day the incubator is opened for the first time and the eggs are talten out and aired for about ten minutes. They are also tested for infertiles at this same time. Then the eggs are re- turned to the incubator and turned mechanically twelve hours after this without opening the machine. At the next twelve hours the eggs are aired again for ten minutes and so on till the twelfth day. After that they are aired 15 minutes, but never under any circumstances is the machine opened more than once a day. This method, ventilators closed, eggs aired only once a day, but turned twice daily, and 83 degrees on the psychrometer, we have found an unfailing cure for chicks dying in the shell. But no one of these details must be omitted, or the hatch may be spoiled. On the 18th day the machine is closed, but small ven- tilators may be left open, if your incubator room is free from drafts. There will be no trouble, if these directions have been followed, with chicks getting out of the shell. There will be a downy lot of fine fluffy balls, as lively as can be wished in your machine next morning. In one respect nothing is so important as this closing of the ventilators, especially if your incubator stands in a room that has the least draft in it. Eggs will not hatch to the best advantage except in absolutely still air. For that reason taking eggs out of an incubator twice a day is detrimental. Only the strong eggs will stand it, the weaker ones will die in the shell. Do not worry about the need of fresh air. There is rar more oxygen in the incubator than the eggs will ever need, as is shown conclusively by the carbonic acid gas test. It is true the carbonic acid gas may be a very variable quantity, de- pending upon the number of eggs in the incubator, etc., but the still air is the thing of highest importance. We know of hundreds of incubators that miserably failed to hatch with the manufacturer's fresh air directions v\rhich became first-class hatchers by simply nailing up the ven- tilators and using a mechanical turning tray. During the proper season of the year we find that gen- erally every germ alive at the 17th day hatches a perfect chick. Even in the molting period we have had many perfect hatches by this method, but occasionally some chicks die in the shell then, however, we seldom find over ten per cent of dead chicks even at that time. Of course no account is taken of germs that die before the seven- teenth day. Sometimes there are many of these, but the fault lies with the eggs in such cases and neither hen nor incubator could hatch them. HATCHABLE EGGS. There is a large difference of opinion as to which is to be considered a fertile egg. Breeders in selling eggs usually follow the practice of guaranteeing a certain percentage of fertile eggs, meaning that they will replace any perfectly clear eggs below their guarantee. There are, however, always a certain number of eggs with im- 33 perfect germs or weak germs, or whatever they may be called. None of these imperfect germs can be expected to hatch. Neither hen nor incubator could do anything; with them. Some of these germs do not aevelop any farther than simply to make a bloody streak through the yolk of the egg. Others grow longer. Some live as long as the 13th and 14th day. In all these cases the germ of the egg has been faulty, and it is impossible to hatch such eggs. The proportion of these eggs depends upon the vigor of the fowls, and to some extent also on the season of the year. It is a good plan to test all the eggs in an incubator on the 17th day. All of the em- bryos dead at that time should be removed. If all the chicks alive in the shell on the 17th day hatch, the hatch may be called a perfect hatch, as that is all that can pos- sibly be expected to hatch. But the great great difficulty with incubators has been that the chicks die in the shell after the 17th day. If any large proportion of chicks die in the shell after the 17th day we consider it the fault of the incubators, not of the eggs. After chicks have been developed up to that stage they would probably hatch if they had been incubated right. Our experience has been that if everything has been right during the period of incubation practically all the chicks alive at the end of the 17th day will hatch. MAMMOTH AND COMPARTMENT MACHINES. We have spent a great deal of money in the attempt to build a large compartment machine heated by only one heater and capable of continuous hatcning. Such a machine is evidently very desirable for a large hatch- ing plant, but we have met with only moderate success in this direction. It is easy enough to construct a ma- chine with any number of compartments to hatch prop- erly if the entire machine is filled with eggs at the same time. Then all the compartments require the same amount of heat and the entire machine can easily be regulated by one thermostat. But difficulty arises when eggs of different periods of incubation are placed in dif- ferent compartments. The eggs much ahead generate a good deal of their own heat and have to be in cooler compartments. It is very diflicult to remove surplus heat from such compartments without interfering with the necessary moisture and carbonic acid gas conditions. The easiest way to remove heat from a compartment would be by letting it escape through ventilators, but this is not permissable, for ventilation spoils the hatch. Stop cocks or other methods must be used, which involve a great deal of expense. It can no doubt be done, but we have abandoned it for our own use. We have found it much the cheaper method to build different incu- bators. One machine can be used for the first week, an- other for the second and a special machine can be built for the last week with conveniences to take care of the chicks for hatching. 34 Our machines are 22 feet long and four feet wide and in this size we have found no need for more than one thermostat for each machine. Each machine is built with eight compartments independent of each other. NURSERIES. We have used machines with nurseries in nearly all our experiments. We do not know of how much real ad- vantage they are. In a big hatch chicks seem to have a lit- tle more elbow room as they are away from the shells. Many machines are made with drawers, but these are not always an advantage. If a machine is made with drawers, it should be so made that the egg tray is placed on the drawer and always comes out with it. If the drawers are made to slide in under the tray, there is always trouble. As soon as the drawer is pulled out a number of chicks will jump over the back of the drawer and others raise their head and you can neither shut nor open the machine or get the chicks. We prefer no draw- ers at all unless the egg tray comes out with the drawer. DISINFECTING INCUBATOR. At least every third hatch an incubator should be thoroughly disinfected. The trays and bottom should be thoroughly cleansed'. They can be washed with almost any good disinfecting fluid or sulphur may be burned in it. This last is the most effective method, but it will require some days of airing before you can get the sulphur out again. However, it is not necessary to get all the sulphur smell out. We have had good hatches with the sulphur smelling strongly all during the incubation. The incubator is a splendid hatcher of all kinds of germs and white diarrhea may be caught in the incubator. On the other hand, the incubator should not be blamed for chicks dying after they are some days old. If the chicks are big and strong when hatched, you may be as- sured that the incubator has done its part. After that the fault lies with the brooding. INCUBATOR HOUSES AND CELLARS. Incubator may be placed in any room that will shel- ter it, but a basement or cellar that is light and cheery, and not too damp is very desirable, for the temperature of such a place is not subject to as much variation as an ordinary room. The most desirable temperature for an incubator room is between sixty and seventy degrees. The most important item, however, is, that it be well venti- lated, but absolutely free from draft. Nothing works so much mischief in an incubator room as drafts. In a perfectly quiet room it is not always necessary to resort to the mechanical turning tray. Eggs will fairly well 35 ^ad 14 1911 stand opening the machine twice a day for turning, only for the one turning the eggs must be returned as soon as possible to the machine. But even in the best incubator room a strict adherence to our method will be found to pay well. A cellar three feet deep with cement floor and walls and the rest of the building above ground, is the ideal for an incubator house. It should be kei)t dry. Never sprinkle the floor. It is immaterial whether lamps, gas or coal, etc., is used for heating incubators, but the fumes should be carried off through chimneys. CHICKS DYING IN KKOODEK. It is not always easy to raise a big flock of chicks artifi- cially, and while it does not belong here, we may as well point out one great means of saving chicks. People have become so accustomed to the necessity of disinfection that they believe if they could only kill all the germs, their chicks would do well, but they forget that there are as many if not more, beneficial germs as there are disease germs. Disinfection kills both the good and bad germs. The real remedy is not always more disinfec- tion, but better natural conditions for the chick. Prof. Metchnikoff, head of the Pasteur Institute in Paris hatched and tried to rear chicks under absolutely germ- proof conditions, but found that his chicks would dwindle away and die in a few weeks. Afterwards he allowed his chicks to come into contact freely with the ordi- nary dunghill bacteria and they were thriving as they should. The intestinal canal is inhabited by a number of bacteria that aid materially in digestion, and the en- tire absence of these causes many chicks to die appar- ently without any cause. One of our neighbors, a famous breeder of Barred Rocks, has for years claimed that the only sure way to prevent white diarrhea in chicks is to feed them a liberal supply of maggots. He has been a steady customer for the rotten eggs from our hatchery. He exposes them to the flies for a day and then lightly buries them. Shortly there is as big a lot of wrigglers as any old hen would want. He feeds these maggots regularly, and certainly raises magnificent birds on them. It is probably safest to use maggots thus produced under ground, for if the eggs were not buried, there might be ptomaines de- veloped. In everything the poultryman should remember that he cannot far transgress nature with immunity. If chicks are once well hatched, then look to your brooding system. 36 Li, My 'II Successful Incubation By P. COOK The WEIMAR PRESS, Los Angeles, Cal. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 002 857 364 9