Class Book _j:jl_fl4LXi4— Copyright }1". COPYRIGHT DEPOSm ^^^s^ '^««&^s^ 70 THE ^ENTY-FrVE CENTS JJ/i^HY^tSiS^. ■rjsgss. wmr^mm m Copyright 1915 BY RAND McNALLY & CO. ©CI.A406845 JUL 24 1915 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE CONTENTS Albany 49 Anthony's Nose 25 Bannerman's Island 33 Beacon 35 Bear Mountain Park 25 Breakneck Mountain 31 John Burroughs 40 Cantilever Bridge (Poughkeepsie) .... 37 Cathedral of St. John the Divine 8 Catskill Aqueduct 31 Catskill Mountains 43 Cold Spring 31 Columbia University 8 Constitution Island 30 Coxsackie 49 Croton Point 21 Devil's Danskammer 35 Dobbs Ferry 16 Dunderberg Mountain 25 Esopus Lighthouse 40 Ferries from New York City 60 Fishkill 35 Fort CUnton 28 Fort Lee 12 Fort Putnam 28 Fort Washington Point 9 Four-Mile Point 48 Garrisons 29 Gee's Point 29 Germantown 43 Grant's Tomb 8 Greystone 15 Hastings 15 Highland Falls 26 High Tor 22 Hook Mountain 21 Hotels in New York City 53 Hudson , 48 Hudson River State Hospital 39 Hyde Park 39 lona Island 25 Irvington 18 Kaaterskill Clove 46 Kingston 41 Ladycliff Academy 30 Livingston Manor House 42 Major Andre Monument. 19 Marlborough 36 Matteawan State Hospital .,,.., 3.5 . Milton M . . i 36- Mount Beacon 35 Mount St. Vincent 14 Newburgh 33 New York Harbor 6 New York Institute for Deaf and Dumb 9 New York University 13 Nyack 21 Old Cro' Nest 30 Old Senate House (Kingston) 41 Orange Ivii^' YORK Q U E E ^• s fOOKLAN i.^ RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 5 The Historic Hudson DESBROSSES STREET TO TARRYTOWN The Hudson River. What is considered the principal source of the river is a tiny Lake in Essex County, called Summit Water, or Lake Tear of the Clouds. It is 325 miles from the Narrows, and 4,300 feet above sea level, therefore the highest prominent body of water from which it is fed. For more than half its length the river winds through the valleys and foot-hills of the Adirondacks. Just above Troy, at which point it is joined by the Mohawk, its chief tributary, it reaches sea level, and for the remaining 150 miles of its course it is practically an estuary of the sea. The influence of the tide is felt here. This is because from this point to its union with the Atlantic Ocean the river has been drowned, as the geologists put it. That is to say, the subsidence of the valley of the prehistoric stream has permitted the sea to flow in upon the river. Its early bed, hundreds of feet below the present surface of the river, has been covered with debris so deep that the bottom which is touched by a sounding line today, except in the Highlands, is less than a hundred feet below. Between West Point and Constitution Island it attains a depth of 216 feet; this is the deepest point in the river. It follows the curious habit of all the rivers of the Atlantic coast in that it crosses the ranges of the Appalachian system transversely. Owing to the geologic subsidence, it is the only one of them that furnishes a navigable water- way entirely through the system. This is the reason New York State has become the Empire State and New York City the great metropolis of the American continent. The Hudson was the most available waterway between the coast and the interior of the continent. Thirty miles south of Albany and 102 miles north of New York City on the west side of the river the velvety purple domes of the Catskill Mountains rise into the heavens. Fifty miles south of the Catskills, the river enters the famous Highlands, through which it passes in a gorge so crooked that in the course of the fourteen miles separating the northern and southern gates, the river adds two miles to the distance a boat must travel between New York and Albany. South of this point the river widens into the Tappan Zee, the broadest part of the river. Below Manhattan the waters of the Hudson blend with the tidal currents of the East River in the Upper Bay. RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Bartholdi's Statue of Liberty li4 miles from the Battery Page 6 New York Harbor. As the steamer pushes its way out into the river to begin its voyage, a view of the Upper Bay is ob- tained, showing the Statue of Liberty on Bedloe's Island and the hazy heights of Staten Island behind it. On the left hand as the prow turns up stream, is the shore of New Jersey, with its long line of railway terminals and steamship piers. The Upper Bay is a circular basin about five miles in diameter. It is connected with the Lower Bay by the Narrows, the deepest part of the harbor. The Lower Bay is shaped like an Indian arrow head, the sides being the southeast shore of Staten Island and the north shore of New Jersey, the point being Raritan Bay and the barbs, Gravesend Bay, just north of Coney Island and Sandy Hook Bay just west of Sandy Hook. It is about thirteen miles long and about the same width at the barbs. Its channels are marked by an expensive system of lightships, lighthouses and steel buoys, charged with supplies of illuminating gas under pres- sure, which permit them to be seen at night as well as in the day time. Notable Skyscrapers. On the right hand as the steamer slowly gathers way among the myriad smaller craft, New York's unique skyline rises against the blue. In the foreground are piers devoted to railroad sta- tions and piers occupied by the great transatlantic liners. RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 7 Notable among the great temples of commerce which cover the southern part of the island are the three towers, the Singer, furthest south, 612 feet high; the Gothic spire of the Woolworth Building (close by the turrets of the towering Municipal building), 58 stories and 750 feet high, the tallest building in the world, and two miles further north, the campanile of the Metropolitan Life Building, 700 feet high. Harbor Activities. Moving about the steamer are many types of vessels not likely to be seen elsewhere. There are floating grain elevators, giant steel and wooden barges bearing trains of cars, and many types of lighters. In addition, there are numerous two-decked, screw ferry boats and tugs bearing the insignia of the great trunk railway lines. The names of the railroads also are to be seen upon the ends of many piers on both sides of the river. New York City is unique among the great ports of the world in that railway freight cars cannot be moved upon the piers on their own tracks. Only one railroad has an all-rail freight route into Manhattan. This absence of all-rail connection is the one handicap of New York harbor and city. The railway lines have been obliged to spend millions of dollars on floating equipment in order to transfer their passengers and freight to the great city. The problem so far as passengers is concerned has been solved for some of the lines through the construction of tubes for the accommodation of passenger trains beneath the bottom of the Hudson River. It will be a long time before there are any additions to the railroad yards on Manhattan Island. Land is more valuable for other purposes. Just north of the great Chelsea pier improvement seen on the right, at the foot of 46th Street, New York City is building a pier for the accommodation of ships a thousand feet in length. In its construction, a great coffer dam similar to that placed around the hull of the Maine in Havana Harbor when it was raised, was required. Within this protective dam the workmen blast out the rock in order to secure the required depth. The pier when completed will be the longest in the harbor jutting into the Hudson River. Stevens Point. On the New Jersey shore is Hoboken with its great piers for the steamships of the Hamburg- American, North German Lloyd and Holland-America Lines. The prominent rock jutting out from the shore just north of the piers and crowned with a castle-like structure, is Stevens Point. It is occupied in part by the Stevens Institute of Technology. Just under the shadow of Stevens Point on the north was the Elysian Fields, New York's playground three score years ago. 8 RAND IMcNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Manhattan Skyline As Here was committed the murder of the beautiful Mary Rogers, upon which crime Poe based his well-known story, ''The Mystery of Marie Roget." Weehawken. A short distance north of Hoboken is Wee- hawken. Upon a secluded grassy shelf of the lower Palisades opposite West 42nd Street, no longer to be seen, Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr, in 1804, fought their tragic duel. Riverside Park. On the right is f oon seen a front of hand- some houses crowning the tree-grown slopes of Riverside Park. It begins at Seventy-second Street, the first residence being that of Charles M. Schwab. This house is among the finest in the United States, and an excellent example of the chateau style of architecture. Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument. At Eighty-sixth Street stands this exquisite memorial, which was dedicated in 1902. It is circular, and modeled in the classic style with Corinthian columns. Cathedral of St. John the Divine. In the distance, at 110th Street, a glimpse is caught of this imposing Episcopal cathedral. Columbia University. A little above this point a view is had of some of the buildings of Columbia University, which was originally chartered as King's College, in the time of George II. On the University grounds is the site of the battle of Harlem Heights, fought on September 16, 1776, which is commemorated by a tablet on one of the University buildings. Tomb of General Grant. This great square structure of white granite (the cost of which was $600,000) is conspicuous RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 4 ^ it Minini 11 1 " i^ ^^^■^"saaBliH ^H : |B liWllllltlH ^^^^^ ^■'^^™*— flilUMfeHNMra 1 "' ^^H ^ H| ■Bral^HIII^^^^H^BHB^HlHi H^^^^H^bIM bB ^^H - <■ "wM AflbnM^^^^^^^HHHHH ^^^l^^^^l^s H ^^H ■> »"^Hi litii JIUhI^^HI^^^II^^^^^^B «»i HUtil^^^^^^^^^^^^ H V -(^ .. ittr '**' ^^^^^B •SjM^Si^H BUm ■'?^-VHMP^ 3HlillVH°' li#! F^lt^L '^" '™^''''"' **• n From Hudson River at the head of Riverside Park; and just beyond it the steamer draws in at the 129th Street pier to take on its uptown passengers. Here a ferry crosses the river, connecting with trolley lines in New Jersey. On the Manhattan Shore we notice the mag- nificent steel viaduct of Riverside Drive. This Drive continues for several miles northward, as the traveler will observe. Cartnansville, the former home of John J. Audubon, the great ornithologist, is soon passed, and a little later is seen Trin- ity Cemetery, where he is buried. This beautiful residence district is now styled Audubon Park. The New York Institute for the Deaf and Dumb appears presently on the right — a large yellow brick building, erected in 1817. Washington Heights. A mile or more in front of us, on the right, in the region known as Washington Heights, is visible a jutting point of land which has been called Fort Washington Point for many years, its former name having been Jeffrey's Hook. The wooded height behind it is known as Fort Washington Park. On the summit of the hill behind the Point are the remains of a fortification known as Fort Washing- ton. It was the scene of one of the bitterest fights in the Revolution, the untoward result of which caused Washington to abandon Manhattan Island. Forts Washington and Lee, on the New Jersey shore opposite, were designed to protect the barrier stretched across the Hudson at this point early in the Revolution to prevent the British vessels from ascending the river. This obstruction consisted of two sunken sloops, two 10 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Steamer Washington Irving, Hudson River Day Line Steamer Berkshire, Hudson Navigation Company Steamer Benj. B. Odell, Central Hudson Line RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 11 -it ^ i^s^ ■^"6 "r. r. 1 FiBW -. I n i ^ Is^ 10 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 11 Steamer Mandalay, Delaware-Hudson S. S. Co. Steamer Clermont, Catskill Evening Line Steamer Highlander, McAllister Steamboat Co. 12 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Replica of Henry Hudson's "Half Moon" — Built for Hudson-Fulton Celebration, 1909 sunken brigs, two large ships mounted with heavy guns and swivels, ^'two hundred f raise of 400 weight each," besides sundry logs and other impediments. Fort Lee. Immediately opposite on the New Jersey side, rise the first cliffs of the Palisades. Upon the headland Fort Lee stood in 1776. It was abandoned when Fort Washington was captured by the enemy. General Washington and his staff watched the defeat of his troops from these cliffs, and then prepared a way of retreat into the interior of New Jersey. A little above Fort Washington Point, on the east bank, we see a stately mansion, long known as Stewart Castle, since it was built by A. T. Stewart, the merchant prince of half a cen- tury ago. The conspicuous residence above it is that of C. K. G. Billings, owner of the once celebrated racehorse, ''J. I. C." The Palisades, which extend sixteen miles to Piermont, form a splendid, continuous, solid wall, which is, perhaps, the most striking feature in the scenery of the whole river. It consists of dark red ingeous rock, crystallized in columnar form, and showing vertical chasms and projections, whose upright lines add to the apparent height of its facade. Its highest point is about 550 feet above the river; and it is be- lieved that this mass of trappean rock has an equal, if not a greater depth, below the river level. RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 13 The narrow space between the Pahsades and the river mar- gin is now a park, owned by the States of New York and New Jersey, and the natural stone cHffs will be preserved from fur- ther injury by quarrymen. The tents seen scattered along the river bank among its trees are those of camping parties. This park now includes not only the Palisades, but practically all of the west bank of the river of scenic interest, except West Point, as far north as Newburgh. New York University. Although situated at some dis- tance from the river, eastward, some of the buildings can be plainly seen by the traveler. The central building has a fine dome, visible at a long distance. The curving colonnade in front of the main building is the Hall of Fame, erected to com- memorate persons who, in one way or another, have added to the glory of the nation. Spuyten Duyvil. Presently, on the right, Washington Heights sink into the valley of Spuyten Duyvil, where opens the Barge Canal connecting the Hudson with the Harlem River. This vale marks the northern end of Manhattan Island, and affords a gateway for the New York Central Railroad to come out to the bank of the river, which it thenceforth follows closely northward to Albany. The curious name of Spuyten Duyvil is said, by Washington Irving in ^'Diedrich Knickerbocker's History of New York," to be derived from a tale about one of Governor Peter Stuyvesant's men. He had been sent to warn the farmers up the river that the British had landed, and to summon them to the defense of New Amsterdam (New York) . He came to a stream where there was no bridge, and swore that he would cross 'Tn spuyt den duyvel," and plunged in, only to lose his life in the turbulent waters. Whether Soldlers' and sailors' Monument the ^'duyveP' took him or '''""'''^" """pagTs '"''' ^'"""' 14 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, Riverside Drive Page 8 not remains a mystery. And the name has stuck to it — ever since Irving wrote the story. The bold promontory just north of Spuyten Duyvil was formerly called Tibbet's Hill, and bore a fortification, Fort Independence, which never received an attack. Upon it now stands the lofty shaft of the monument to Henry Hudson, which is suitably placed, because it was at the foot of this hill that Hudson had his first fight with the Indians of Manhattan Island, who tried to board his vessel. Riverdale and Mt. St. Vincent. The high ground on the right is known as Riverdale and Mount St. Vincent. Within the latter's precincts are the Roman Catholic Convent and Hospital of Mount St. Vincent. The castle-hke residence, once known as 'Tout Hill," which was built by the American tragedian, Edwin Forrest, is now a part of the convent, and the headquarters in America of the great order of Sisters of Charity of St. Vincent. The big yellow building beyond the convent is the Leake and Watts Asylum. Yonkers, seventeen miles from the Battery in New York, is the first landing place of the boat after leaving New York RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 15 City. The name is supposed to be derived from the Dutch words, ''Jonk Heer's," meaning ''Young lord's," and referring to the young patroon, whose more southerly home the neigh- borhood was. His other home was Philipse Manor house at what is now Tarrytown. His manor house at Yonkers, like that farther up the river, is still preserved, having been used for a period as the city hall. At the present time it is owned by the State, the custodian being the American Scenic and Historic Preservation Society. Among the relics preserved in the old house is a gallery of paintings of well-known Americans. One of these is an oil portrait of Abraham Lincoln done by A. J. Conant shortly before his first election to the Presidency. This is the only picture ever made showing him smiling. Yonkers is an important city, with a population of more than 90,000. Among its commercial establishments are an elevator manufactory, hat factories, a sugar refinery, and one of the largest carpet factories in the world. The country north of Yonkers is very beautiful. Many wealthy men have established fine estates overlooking the river. Conspicuous among those which are visible may be seen the lofty battlemented tower of "Greystone," formerly the residence of Samuel J. Tilden, once Governor of New York and a candidate for the Presidency. He became known throughout the country as the ''Sage of Greystone." Hastings is a short distance farther along. Directly across the river is Indian Head, the highest point of the Palisades. On that side also stands a stone called "Boundary Monument," which marks the beginning of the boundary line between the Columbia University Broadway, Amsterdam Ave., 116th to 120th Streets Page 8 16 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE States of New York and New Jersey, the determination of which came near causing an interstate war. Dobbs Ferry is full of reminiscences of the struggle for independence. Its part in the Revolution is to be credited in a measure to the fact that it was on debatable ground, and partly because it was the easterly landing place of the first ferry crossing the river north of the island of Manhattan. The long wall of the Palisades forbade any attempts to communicate with New Jersey south of Sneden's Landing opposite this point. It was known as Dobb's Ferry because a man named Dobbs established it. In the Revolution a battery was stationed at the water's edge to protect the crossing. It was a sore vexation to the British ships which wished to pass up or down the river, and in 1781 it did marked damage to a squadron. The Washington-Rochatnbeau Monument, unveiled in 1894, stands before the so-called Livingston Manor House in Dobbs Ferry. This house is reputed to have been Washing- ton's headquarters. On July 6, 1781, the French alHes here joined the American army. Here Washington planned the Yorktown campaign; and here he met Sir Guy Carleton of the Grant's Tomb, Riverside Drive Page 8 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 17 The Palisades Page 12 British army, May 3, 1783, and arranged for the evacuation of America by the British. Opposite this place on May 8, 1783, a British war vessel fired a salute in honor of General Washington, the first salute of Great Britain to the flag of the new nation. A short distance above Dobbs Ferry, the river broadens into the Tappan Zee (sea), where it reaches a width of three and three-quarters miles, and a beautiful view is presented. The name is derived from the Tappan Indians, a band of the Dela- ware tribe once dwelling on its western shore. The Palisades terminate here, and the observer can see the opening between them and the next elevation, where the Sparkill comes down from the western hills to the Hudson. This deep valley gives an outlet to the Erie Railroad, and is the place where the first railway reached tidewater. A long wharf (Piermont Pier) extends out to the channel, and from it for several years all the coal brought from the mines of Pennsyl- vania by the Erie Railroad was loaded into barges and trans- ported to the city. There is a monument here which marks 18 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, N, Y. Page 15 the grave of John C. Fremont, the 'Tathfinder" pioneer, who was the first RepubUcan candidate for the Presidency. The railway passing along the shore is the Northern New Jersey branch of the Erie Railroad, extending to the city of Nyack, which is seen on the left. From the entrance of the Tappan Zee northward the eastern shore is full of beauty and interest. Irvington. Directly opposite Piermont Pier, is the town of Irvington, named for Washington Irving, whose many- gabled home, ^'Sunnyside," is screened by the trees close to the railway track a little north of the station. Half a mile north of Irving's residence is ^'Lyndehurst," the former residence of Jay Gould, the financier, and since occupied as the summer home of his daughter, Helen Gould Sheppard. It is modeled after the historic Newstead Abbey, the home of Lord Byron. Other handsome residences are passed, beautifying the shore and interesting the traveler. Tarrytown, a picturesque village scattered over the green hills of the eastern bank and overlooking the broad sweep of the Tappan Zee, is next reached. It is famous for its many old RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 19 landmarks, its elegant modern residences, and its schools. On the Albany Post Road in Tarrytown, on September 23, 1780, the British officer and spy, Major John Andre, having hidden in his boots the incriminating documents he had received from the traitor, Benedict Arnold, regarding the proposed surrender of West Point, was captured by three townsmen. A monument commemorating the historic event of his capture was erected on the spot in 1853, but it is not visible from the river. Andre was taken across the river, and a few days later was executed at Tappan — a villge among the hills to the west. Just above Tarrytown is seen the valley of Pocantico Creek, the mouth of which is marked by the projection of Kingsland Point. A glimpse up the valley of this creek shows the site of the ancient Philipse house, its antiquated mill, end a famous old bridge; and reminds one of the fact that this region has long been known as Sleepy Hollow, and is identified with the legend of Washington Irving. The dust of this early American writer rests in the Sleepy Hollow cemetery just beyond, and beside the ancient Dutch church, built in 1699. A glimpse of this, the oldest church edifice in use in New York State, may be had as From the Top of the Palisades Page 12 20 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Sunnyside, Tarrytown — Washington Irvine's Home Page 19 one sails past. The present bridge at the foot of the knoll is a beautiful ivory colored arch of Indiana limestone, recently erected by William Rockefeller to replace a smaller brick and stone one. The growing traffic on the Albany Post Road had made a wdder one necessary. In his ''Legend of Sleepy Hollow" Irving wrote: ''Not far from TarrA^town, perhaps about tw^o miles, there is a little valley, or, rather, lap of land among high hills, which is one of the quietest places in the whole world. A small brook glides through it, with just murmur enough to lull one to repose, and the occasional whistle of a quail, or tapping of a woodpecker, is almost the only sound that ever breaks in upon the uniform tranquility." ._ Above Irving's grave the land swells into a knoll, sur- mounted by the memorials of the Delavan family, a tall shaft of granite, plainly visible from the river, with six marble statues disposed about the pedestal of the column. North of this church is Battle Hill, on the summit of which are the remains of fortifications, and also a monument erected in memory of the American soldiers w^ho fell in the Revolution. ''^si-^ nd with it forced Washington's Headquarters-Tappan, N Y Page 19 ■ ' are tJie reiiiMins ui lurimca ^s. ,^6^ in memory of the American soi^*- ^s^ pn. RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 21 Near the shore, just above Kingsland Point, the splendid home of William Rockefeller comes into view, near the river bank. The estate and home of his famous brother, John D. Rockefeller, is among the hills behind it, and about three miles distant. NYAGK TO NEWBURGH Nyack. The town on the west bank opposite Tarrytown is Nyack. It is connected with Tarrytown by a steam ferry, and is the point of departure for the favorite automobile run tO' Sufferns, N. Y., and the picturesque hill roads of Northern New Jersey. The high hill rising abruptly from the river's edge north of it is called Hook Mountain; or Point-no-Point.. The devastating hand of the trap rock manufacturer well-nigh destroyed the beauty of this mountain before it was stayed.. The Ramapo Hills fill the horizon westward. Ossining. Presentl}^ on the right we pass this old town (formerly called Sing Sing), and note the grim walls of Sing Sing Prison (founded in 1826) in plain view at the water's edge. A short distance beyond, to the east, the Croton River joins the Hudson, about a mile above Ossining, and just here Teller's Point will be noticed, projecting into the river. The mainland of this cape is called Croton Point, and the water between it and the river's bank is Croton Bay. Croton Point separates Tappan Zee from Haverstraw Bay, an expansion of the river just above. At this point are the yards where the New York Central trains change from electricity to steam and vice versa. In the waters off Teller's Point, on September22,1780, the British man-of- War Vulture lay at anchor, waiting for Major John Andre to return from his fatal conference with Arnold on the opposite side of the river. A party of Americans brought a cannon from Ver- planck'sPoint, sev- eral miles north, and with it forced Washington's Headq^uarters -Tappan, N. Y. 22 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE the British vessel to turn down- stream. This pre- vented Major An- dre from returning to the ship, and he crossed to Ver- planck's Point and tried to get to New York by land, which resulted in his capture. High Tor is the prominent peak whose bold foot- hill rises abruptly from the western shore opposite Croton Point. The voyager may be surprised to see a railway train sud- denly burst from its northern face, and race along the ledge. It runs on the tracks of the West Shore Railroad, which here comes . out to the river through a tunnel. Just beneath, Major Andre was landed from his ship. Thence he walked to a house behind the village of Haverstraw (whose vast brickyards are conspicuous a mile farther on), which is still standing, to complete his evil mission. Stony Point. Just above Haverstraw a rocky promontory recalls one of the most brilliant incidents of the War for In- dependence. There, on the night of July 15, 1779, the dare- devil soldier, ''Mad" Anthony Wayne, stormed successfully a fortress deemed almost impregnable, the British boasting that it was '' a httle Gibralter." This battle is one of the most famous of the Revolution. At Stony Point stands a light- house erected on the site, and built of the stones of the old fort so gallantly captured. Remains of the fort are visible. The whole peninsula is now maintained as a public park by the State, under the care of the American Scenic and Historic Pres- ervation Society, at whose instance this and other beautiful spots have been saved for the enjoyment of future generations. 4 i MIL:. . HJ^^^Hl^BI^^^IHHIV^^ '^ * . .i Monument Marking Spot Where Major Andre Was Captured Page 19 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 23 Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side of the river, is the next place of historic interest after Stony Point. Between the two, in colonial times, ran the boats of the King's Ferry, on the main highway between New England and the West. The plain here was the scene, in 1778, of animated and earnest evolutions of soldiers of the American army, gaining efficiency under Baron Steuben (later Major-General) , the German nobleman who offered his services to General Washington. In the Revolution it was occupied by military works to assist Stony Point in covering the ferry. It changed flags as often as Stony Point did. Additional interest is given to this point by the fact that Henry Hudson's ship, the Half Moon, dropped anchor in these waters on September 14, 1609. Beyond this historic spot we glide onward till we come within view of Peekskill on the east shore. Peekskill. This is an animated town, boasting a place in history. In the year 1777, the British landed here and attacked a small American force, which was obliged to retreat. On a high cliff overlooking the river may be seen the grounds of the State Military Camp, occupied in summer by different regiments of the National Guard of the State of New York. Though the men live in tents in regular soldier fashion, the grounds are most carefully arranged in regard to sewerage and sanitation; the so-called ' 'streets" of tents are lighted by electricity, the officers eat in a large mess-hall, a wharf gives a convenient landing place for steamers, and a model battery affords object lessons in artillery practice. When we remem- ber that almost every point within sight was fortified, and that every valley was a camping-ground in the War of the Re- volution, we realize that no more ap- propriate spot for the State encamp- ment could have been chosen. Visi- tors are welcome at the camp at suit- able hours, and meet with every courtesy from of- ficers and men. The summer home ^i? TT^ TTTT- 1 State Park Gateway, Stony Point, N. Y, or Henry Ward Pa|4 22 24 RAXD McXALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE RAXD McXALLY HUDSOX RIVER GUIDE 25 Beecher was in Peekskill. and ex-Senator Chauncy M. Depew was born here. The scenery has been likened to that of the region of Lake Como. Dunderberg Mountain. Just above, the river takes a sharp turn to the left, and the steamer passes through the Southern Gate of the Highlands, in front of old Dunderberg Mountain on the west bank. At the foot is Kidd's Point, so caUed from the legend that here the pirate. Captain Kidd. concealed some of his as yet undiscovered treasure. The boat now enters the Highlands, one of the most picturesque parts of the Hudson, where every curve of the beautiful banks suggests a subject for painting. lona Island (on the left beyond Dunderbergj, now oc- cupied by the United States Government as a naval arsenal and supply depot. The neat workshops and storehouses, dominated by a fine tower, and the ofl&cers* quarters surroimded by beautifully cultivated grounds, form a charming scene. The river is so narrow between this island and its eastern shore that the place is always spoken of by boatmen as ''The Race." Bear Mountain Park is directly above lona Island on the west bank. A large area of wild land, originating in a gift of ^Irs. E. H. Harriman. has been set apart here under the control of the Interstate Palisade Park Commis- sion for the benefit of the masses of eastern New York's population who need a place for rusticating. The park covers many hills and vales, and includes the sequestered and storied Hessian, or Black Lake, the scene of a Revolutionar\- skirmish. A great amount of money has already been expended on roads and pubhc conveniences. Anthony's Nose. The high promontory' jutting from the eastern bank is Anthonv's Xose. The orisin of the name of Stony Point Page 22 26 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE this striking hill is uncertain. One writer says that it was named, not from ''Mad" Anthony, but after the large nose of a Dutch sloop, whose fame is kept by tradition. Washing- ton Irving, in his ingenious ''Knickerbocker's History of New York," connects it with Anthony Van Corlear. Anthony had a rubicund nose of unusual size. Coming upon deck early in the morning while accompanying his master, Peter Stuyvesant, to Fort Orange (Albany), he leaned over the quarter rail of the galley. "Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all its splendor from behind a high bluff of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the refulgent nose of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot, into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel." This "astounding miracle" becoming known to Stuyvesant, he bestowed the name of "Anthony's Nose" upon the promontory in the neighborhood. A short distance farther on Poplopen Creek flows down to the Hudson from the west through a deep and pretty ravine. On the south side stood Fort Montgomery, and on the north side Fort Clinton. These forts were taken by the British in 1777, under Sir Henry Clinton, in an effort to reheve General Bur- goyne, who was in great straits in the valley of the upper Hudson, and the British ships made their way up the river in spite of the great chain stretched across it here. The residence of the late J. Pierpont Morgan stands on the west bank at Highland Falls, a little back from the river, and is partly hidden from view by trees, though its gabled roof and tall flagstaff are well in view. Just above is the residence of the late John Bigelow, and directly opposite, on the east shore, rises Mount Sugarloaf, while Beverly Dock (named for lona Island, U. S. Government Naval Arsenal and Supply Depot Page 25 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 27 Anthony's Nose Page 22 Beverly Robinson, a Tory,, implicated in the Arnold-Andra plot), at the foot of Sugarloaf, marks the spot whence Arnold fled to board the British Man-of-War, Vulture, and effect his escape to England. Comparison is constantly made between the Hudson and the Rhine. The latter, above Cologne, is strikingly similar to our noble river in natural aspect, barring the Palisades. The German mountains that hem in the river at Rudesheim and Bingen are much like the Highlands now closing about us, and the crags of the Lorelei look much like those of Anthony's Nose. In the cities and villages seen along their course, how- ever, the two rivers differ greatly, and the half-ruined castles studding the crests of the Rhine hills are a feature notably absent along the Hudson, where tumble-down buildings are not popular. West Point. But as the steamer passes Conn's Hook Island and swerves slightly toward the left, one finds confront- ing him a terraced mass of buildings which are greater and more picturesque than anything along the Rhine — the splendid edifices at West Point. As one approaches, up-stream, they 28 RAND McNALLY HUSDON RIVER GUIDE H'.- •-- - . 1 1 ^ PB||||Ei^3 *'^'f .^jf^ ?■*«'>-' "i^!iMfc( 1 1^ -. . -*^: ^^ i ^^S Dunderberg Mountain Page 25 gradually define themselves. Nearest and lowest is the Power House, with a bastion-like chimney, beyond which the massive Riding School presents a fort-like front, very tall from its base, yet the roof is so low as not to obstruct the charming view obtained from the level of the Parade Ground, to which the winding road ascends from the station. On this level stands the Administration Building, whose beautiful square tower, where flies the post flag, is grandly conspicuous at the right. The beautiful white building beyond is Memorial Hall. The other buildings of the Military Academy, and the residence of the officers of the post and of the Academy, form a lovely scene as they circle about the great Parade. On the heights behind is the striking, fortress-Hke chapel, and the remains of the Revolutionary work, Fort Putnam. The latter was erected to protect Fort Clinton, which occupied the point below. It is easy to see what a formidable fortress this was and why its surrender to the British by Benedict Arnold would have been a well-nigh fatal blow. It was the key to the control of the Hudson River, so all-important RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 29 Sugar Loaf Mountain Page 26 The Chain-Battery walk, now better known as Fhrtation walk, is a wooded path running from Kosciusko's garden north- ward to Gee's Point (the lighthouse point), near which was the battery that defended the chain stretched across the river in Revolutionary days. No one who can do so should deny him- self the pleasure of stopping off a day at West Point. No river view in the United States surpasses that northward from the Victory monument on the northern verge of the Parade, and the stately column, upon whose summit McMonnie's winged figure of Victory stands lightly poised, forms a splendid feature in the scene as the traveler looks back after rounding ''the Point," or approaches from up-stream. On the slopes facing north are the batteries which the cadets utilize in their study of the subject of artillery. The rural town directly opposite West Point is Garrisons, where many families of prominence have their homes. A high hill south of the village is crowned by the castle-like dwelling of Mr. Osborne; and the Dick place is conspicuous just above Garrisons — an Italian villa adapted to its mountain site. 30 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Constitution Island. Just where the river bends west- ward around West Point, the steamer passes, on its right hand. Constitution Island, at which point a second ineffective chain was thrown across during the Revolution to obstruct the passage of British ships. A number of the links of the chain are preserved on the plateau north of the Parade Ground at West Point. The island was named from Fort Constitution, which was built there in the days of the Revolution, but was taken by the British in 1777 and destroyed. For many years this island was the home of the Misses Warner, authors of ''The Wide, Wide World," and many other favorite stories. Miss Susan Warner died in 1885, and Miss Anna Warner died in January, 1915. The island was presented to the Government by Mrs. Russell Sage and Miss Warner as a site for a prepara- tory school for West Point. Old Cro' Nest. A highly picturesque elevation is seen on the west bank, north of West Point, called "Old Cro' Nest Mountain." Cro' Nest is hnked in American Hterature with Joseph Rodman Drake's fairy story in verse, 'The Culprit Fay." Still farther north we arrive at the Northern Gate of the Highlands. Ladycliflf Academy, Highland Falls RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 31 West Point Landing Page 27 Breakneck and Storm King Mountains. We pass Cold Spring and Bull Hill (or Mount Taurus) on the right, and then admiration and wonder are divided between two attractions — Breakneck Mountain on the east, and grand old Storm King on the west, standing as keepers of the Northern Gate. The tunnel of the great new Catskill Aqueduct, which is to provide water in endless quantity for drought-threatened New York City, passes under the Hudson at Storm King, at a depth of about 1100 feet. A shaft of this height was required because of the extreme depth of the channel of the prehistoric Hudson. It was necessary to have the siphon encased in solid rock in order to withstand the enormous weight and pressure of such a volume of water as that carried by the new Aqueduct. The total cost of the whole construction of the Aqueduct will be about $160,000,000. A State road is being built around Storm King. Just above Storm King we pass through the Northern Gate and make a turn to the left that brings us to Cornwall, near which are the estates of the late E. P. Roe, the writer, and ''Idlewild," the former home of Nathaniel Parker Willis, the 32 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Cadets at West Point Page 27 of the monument was 167,000. Orange Lake is situated about RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 33 poet, editor, and dilettante. He it was who gave ''Storm King" its poetic name. Here, also, is the home of Lyman Abbott. This region abounds in reminiscences of American literary life a century or less ago. Bannerman's Island. Opposite Cornwall is Bannerman's Island arsenal. The owner, Francis Bannerman, who pur- chases a large proportion of the obsolete war material sold by the United States Government, has established his store houses here. Constructed in the style of a castle from the worn blocks taken from the streets of New York, they house the equipment of an army. NEWBURGH TO KINGSTON Newburgh. A quiet stretch of water brings us next to another of Washington's headquarters, near Newburgh, the terraces of which rise from the left bank to the lawn about the old stone house. A flag flying from the flag staff and a Tower of Victory mark the historic spot. Newburgh, now an important manufacturing city of 30,000 inhabitants, was settled in 1709, and Washington selected it for his headquarters in 1782. Here he formally disbanded his army in 1783. The headquarters building is now kept as a museum, within which are many interesting arms, documents and other relics of the Revolution. A catalogue obtainable on the premises gives a particular description of all objects, but most of them are labeled with intelligence. The block of brownstone near the entrance is a monument over the grave of Uzal Knapp, the last survivor of General Washington's Life Guard, who died in 1856, at the age of ninety-nine. The Tower of Victory stands on the northeast corner of the Headquarter's ground, and is clearly visible from the river. It is a stone tower 53 feet high, with four large archways that open into an atrium, in the center of which is a bronze statue of General Washington. Resting in niches in the walls are four bronze figures repre- senting the four arms of the service in the Army of the Revolu- tion, wearing the costumes of the time^uniforms of the dra- goon, the artilleryman, the rifleman, and the line-officer. An inscription on the exterior wall east, under a figure of Peace, reads : ''This monument was erected under the authority of the Congress of the United States, and of the State of New York, in commemoration of the disbandment, under proclama- tion of the Continental Congress of October 18, 1783, of the armies by whose patriotic and military virtue our national independence and sovereignty were established." The cost of the monument was $67,000. Orange Lake is situated about 34 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 35 six miles from Newburgh, and is easily reached by trolley. The lake is three miles long and here the visitor will find many attractions, including Boating, Fishing, Dancing, and Roller Skating. Beacon (Formerly Fishkill-on-Hudson). Immediately opposite the city of Newburgh, and connected by ferry, is Beacon (now incorporated with Matteawan). A convent for Catholic Sisters is noticeable. About a mile back from the river the traveler will find the ancient town of Matteawan, with its State Hospital for the criminal insane, and old Fishkill Village, which saw exciting times in the Revolution, for here, after the British drove the Americans out of New York City, the patriots held their legislative meetings in the churches. J. Fenimore Cooper used Fishkill Village as a setting for his fine Revolutionary novel, ''The Spy." Beacon Mountains. Back of Matteawan rise the Beacon Mountains, so called because on their heights beacon fires were lighted as signals in the Revolution. A monument erected on one of these hills marks the spot where the flame was kindled. The highest of the group is 1635 feet, and its summit is now easily reached by means of a cable railway — said to be the steepest of its kind in the world — which carries excursionists in summer to a cool pleasure resort overlooking a vast land- scape. On the right bank, a short distance above Beacon, is visible the old Verplanck House, famous as the scene of the organization of the Society of the Cincinnati, a society of the United States established by the officers of the Revolutionary army in 1783, ''to perpetuate their friendship, and to raise a fund for relieving the widows and orphans of those who fell in the war." In this house Baron Steuben in the Revolution had his headquarters, and the legislature held its sessions before going to Kingston. Here at Fishkill, Lafayette lay ill with a fever, and here Enoch Crosby, the hero of Cooper's ''Spy," is supposed to have been confined in a church. Devil's Danskammer. After leaving Newburgh, the first place passed is Carthage Landing, on the east bank. On the west bank, at the next turn of the river, stands a lighthouse, called "the Devil's Danskammer," on a point showing a grove of cedar trees, where Henry Hudson had the privilege of be- holding an Indian "pow-wow." The crag was thenceforth known as the Devil's Danskammer, or Devil's Dance Hall, for the dancing of the Indians around the camp fire seemed to the Dutch nothing less than a dance of fiends. Wappinger's Creek, small but important as an ancient boundary, flows into the Hudson on the right, above the hghthouse, and near it is 36 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Gee's Point Lighthouse Page 29 West Point the old German settlement known as New Hamburg, opposite which may be observed Hampton Point, where grow beautiful white cedar trees, the finest of their kind along the river. The Creek is named after the Wappinger Indians, once a powerful tribe. Marlborough. On the high west bank are seen the spires and housetops of Marlborough one of the oldest and pleasant- est villages along the river, where many men of wealth have their summer homes. It had the distinction of a bombardment during the Revolutionary war. A few miles beyond it is Milton, another old town, originally a settlement of Quakers, and just above it on the east bank is still to be seen a residence marked by a square central tower, which was the home of the late S. F. B. Morse, inventor of the electric telegraph. Not far below ''Locust Grove," Morse's home, the Milton horse boat plied for many years to and fro across the river. At the eastern end of the ferry in Revolutionary days stood the smithy of Theophilus Anthony. Here he worked upon the chain used to obstruct the river at Fort Montgomery. RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 37 Poughkeepsie, For some time the populous city of Pough- keepsie has been in view, and on a nearer approach we pass the brick buildings of the Vassar Hospital, and just beyond it Riverview Academy, with flagstaff and cannon on its lawn. The steamer slows down and stops at a wharf in a charming little park, seventy-four miles from New York. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch near the end of the Seventeenth Century, and in 1788 the New York Legislature met here to ratify the Federal Constitution. Following the burning of Kingston it became in 1778 the capital of New York. Several educational institutions are situated in Poughkeepsie, chief among which is Vassar College for women, the buildings of which are not visible from the river. The city has a variety of industries employing several millions of capital. The Cantilever Bridge. Spanning the river at this city is one of the longest cantilever bridges in the world; it is 12,608 feet long, and the tracks upon it are 212 feet above tide-water. The cornerstone of this bridge was laid in 1873, but the construction went no further at that time. Not until September, 1886, was it resumed, and it was finished Constitution Island At Right Page 30 38 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE RAXD McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 39 in January, 1889. It was then entirely for railway use, with a double track, but since that time it has had a foot path added. One or two venturesome athletes, seeking notoriety or money, have dropped from the center of the bridge and sur- vived the mad attempt. The cost of the entire structure was approximately 83,500,000. It connects New England directly with the coal fields of Pennsylvania, being the only bridge over the Hudson south of Albany. In June each year the crews of several universities unite in a regatta terminating near the bridge. Among them are usually to be found Cornell, Columbia, and the University of Pennsylvania. A conspicuous object from the river at this point is the Parthenon Building, on College Hill. The latter w^as pre- sented to the citv of Poughkeepsie as a pubHc park by Mr. W. W. Smith. Hudson River State Hospital is brought into view^ as the voyage continues, and is noticeable by its red brick build- ings, which are passed on the right; and a little farther on the imposing structure of St. Andrews' College, a Catholic institution of learning. Hyde Park. Next north Hes Hyde Park, the center of a beautiful, restricted residential district, formed of elegant dw^elhng-places and fine parks, which extends northward for several miles. The great estate a short distance beyond the Hyde Park Station is that of Frederick W. Vanderbilt. It is a magnificent mansion, with Corinthian columns of white marble. On the west bank is seen Manresa Institute, a Catholic orphan asylum under the management of the Sisters of the White Cross. Bannerman's Island Page 33 40 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Home of John Burroughs. About three miles farther, amid vineyards on the west bank, stands the unpretentious dwelUng of John Burroughs, the well-beloved naturalist and writer, just above which is the Episcopal Monastery of the Brothers of the Holy Cross. Two miles farther on we see the ancient town of Esopus, and in the middle of the river Esopus Island, a favorite camping-ground for fishermen and picnickers. ''Rosemont," the fine residence of Hon. Alton B. Parker, once the Democratic candidate for the Presidency, stands on a hill near the water on the left of the island, and the large edifice of gray stone just beyond his home is the CathoHc (Dominican) Convent. On the east bank two fine estates will be noticed, that of D. Ogden Mills, and just above it, that of the late W. B. Dinsmore, formerly president of the Adams Express Company. Esopus Lighthouse. A marked curve in the river here brings us to Esopus Lighthouse on a point, back of which a httle to the north, is Hussy's Mountain, 1000 feet high. Opposite, on the high ground of the right bank is seen as we proceed, the beautiful country home of Levi P. Morton, the Breakneck Mountain Gatskill Aqueduct Passes Under River At This Point Page 31 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVERGUIDE 41 Tower of Victory and Washington's Headquarters — Newburgh, N. Y. Page 33 venerable ex-Vice-President of the United States, and the ex-Governor of the state of New York. Rondout Lighthouse. At the town of Rhinechff, on the right bank, is a ferry connecting it with Rondout, one of the most important shipping points between New York and Albany. Just across the river, and in mid-stream stands the Rondout Lighthouse, at the mouth of Rondout Creek. Rond- out is a part of the city of Kingston, the center of which lies three miles inland. On the shore, at Kingston Point, is a spacious park with attractive amusements, thronged every summer evening by merry-makers. This is the river terminus of the Ulster & Delaware Railroad, whose trains carry excur- sionists and health seekers to all parts of the southern and central Catskills. Above Rhinecliff, on the east bank, a conspicuous object is the Astor Squash Court, a large white building on a hill, which is part of the property of Vincent Astor, son of the late John Jacob Astor. ^'Ferncliff," Mr. Astor's splendid residence stands at the river side, just beyond the Squash Court. Kingston is one of the oldest towns in the State, having originally had a charter in 1661, granted by Governor Stuyve- sant. It was then called Wiltwyck, but later this was changed to Kingston by its British governor. The old Senate-house, built in 1676, a low, stone structure still standing, was the 42 RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE Town of Beacon Beacon Mountain in Background, Showing Incline Railway Page 35 first meeting place of the legislature, which convened there in September, 1777. In this building, which is now a State museum, on Sunday, April 20, 1777, New York's first consti- tution was adopted. George CUnton, afterward a Vice Presi- dent of the United States, was inaugurated here on July 30, 1777, the first governor of the new State. Here on September 9, the same year, Chief Justice Jay opened the first State court. A number of the old stone houses of the town's early days still stand, among them being the birthplace of John Vanderlyn, the painter. KINGSTON TO COXSACKIE A straight ''reach" above Rhinebeck takes us past Barry- town on the right, and we notice an oddly shaped promontory called Cruger's Island, as it has long been a part of the estate of Colonel J. C. Cruger. Just before the boat reaches Cruger's Point on the east bank it passes Annandale, the former home of the widow of General Richard Montgomery, who was killed December 31, 1775, while conducting the attack upon Quebec. In 1818, his dust was brought down the Hudson on the steamer Richmond with great funeral pomp. As it passed Annandale, his white-haired widow sat alone on the porch of the house where she could see it. They had been married only two years when he went away on the Quebec expedition. His remains were deposited in St. Paul's, New York, where they now rest beneath a monument which all Broadway may see in passing. Livingston Manor House. Just north of Tivoh is the manor house of the old Livingston family, named ''Clermont," in honor of which Robert Fulton named his steamboat, which made its first trip up the Hudson River in 1807. It was here that Fulton stopped over night with the Clermont when Page 35 Here tnat _b uiton stopped o^ In RAND McNALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE 43 making the epochal voyage to Albany in that year. From Tivoli, a ferry runs to Saugerties, a prosperous manufactur- ing town on the west bank. Tivoli gains its name from the ^^chateau" erected there before the Revolution by one of the Livingstons. It was later occupied by the family of the late Colonel J. L. DePeyster. Germantown. Maiden and West Camp on the west bank, and Germantown on the east bank, settled by German refugees from the Palatinate, early in the eighteenth century, are passed next, but the eyes of the traveler will rest most often on the summits of the Catskill Mountains, which are in full view for about two hours. Catskill Mountains. The Catskills cover over 2400 square miles, with their base about three miles from the river. The name is a Dutch word, in allusion to the catamounts once found among these hills. The view of the mountains from this part of the river is very fine. One's gaze reaches to the very head of Kaaterskill Clove, where, by the aid of a strong glass, the cottages and hotels at Twilight Park and Haine's Falls may be discerned, and south of that great glen are seen the graceful summits beyond Overlook, which smile down on Mount Beacon Incline Railway. Page 35 (Looking Down) ^4 RAXD McXALLY HUDSON RIVER GUIDE — •3' RAND McNALLY HTDSOX RIVER GUIDE 45 the Shandaken Valley. The memory of the romantic stories toIdbyV' -'-'-- -■'". Irvine -^_-- _ :, -,^-^ ^itereat to the n: ;ty of ' , -ading, which is now at hand on the left, where Catskiii Creek enters the rivcT ^hrc'ish a picture^ue valley. Catskill Landing. This old town, which before the com- pletion of the railroad into the mountains from Kingston, wag the only point of entrance to the C: :" ' the tourists and summer residents, i^ ^' 'iresque — . . ::ty situation, and has a history full of - interest, for. as early as 16 7h, this site was bought from tne Indians by the first Robert Liiingston and other pioneer ^*^--" - - v" ■ - - -^'- - --- -^ ■ their houses on th^^ ohin and c'^. _ - boring valley. ^lany relics of the eariy Dutch mnuence are still to be seen in the village, although it now has a mr - - and. iu summer, lively £_ :i:e. Here. also, various boat lines stop. A ferry connects the lAndinp with Greendale on the Xew Y : tral. and this is the terminus of the Catskill Alountain x, i. CatskiU Village is itself a populous resort in. summer, and C'T " - many excellent hotels and boarding houses, large a: .- :„.ll. The mountains lure to their heights moet