?r ipfl^ i? \) v\ u ^ v.^ f r i^l^r. OUK.*HOMES »AND HEIR IdBRNMENTS; c.^=*OR,*=^-' m \Q guild. IFintsh, fnvmk and gdern a ^sme A COMPLETE HOUSEHOLD CYCLOPEDIA. DESIGNED TO MAKE tlilPPY ♦ t^OMES * FOR ^=> }\RFFY ^> PEOPLE, PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. By ALMON C. VARNEY, SUPERVISING ARCHITECT, JOHN H YOUNG, Author of "Our Deportmant " ; Mrs, J. M. S. HOLDEN ■■ Int.rior Decoration ; '■ CHAS. E. BENTLEY, " Decorative Art Needle Work"; WILLIAM BOYDELL, " House Painting " ; JOHN SWIFT, M. S., " Landscape Gardening " ; y\\ ROSE A. GREGORY, "Knitting and Crocheting." J. C. CHILTON & CO., Publishers, DETROIT, MICHIGAN. 1884. < A^^ A' ^ 4; K .Mtx^'^^^'^M^^^ Entered according toilet of Congress, in the year 1BB4, «^By J, C, CHILTDN; ^2-c In the DfficB of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. "^^if^ VWfW^ ►e- -^fe^- WMW^^MWMl -i-^- TO THE '■^£T&\\k "^K i«l ?1U tiil^pM^^Ml^^il T People oe America. ^j v^ [ill] PUBLISHERS' I^OTeH '^ '^ N" submitting this work to the public, the Publishers 1^^ think it not amiss to state that the contents have been carefully criticised and reviewed by competent and -.•s " >^ conscientious critics. To the authors of the yarious departments much credit is due for the successful manner in which they have treated the topics assigned them. For other favors and information not otherwisie available special thanks are due — To Mr. Chas. E. Bentley, Designer and Manufacturer of Decorative Art Needle- Work, Ncav York; Messrs. Phillips & Hunt, Publishers of the "People's Cyclopedia," New York; The American Encaustic Tiling Co., New York; Messrs. Warren, Fuller & Co., Manufacturers of Artistic Wall- Papers, New York; E. T. Barnum, Manufacturer of Crest- ings, etc., Detroit; Messrs. Mills & Barker, Artistic Furni- ture, Detroit; A. H, Shipman, Fret-SaAV Manufacturer, Rochester, New York. The Publishers take no small degree of pride in present- ing a work Avhich furnishes so many valuable suggestions on the subject of Our Homes and Their Adornments, and they can but wish that it will gi-i-ally assist in making many HAPPY HOMES FOR HAPPY PEOPLE. [ivj ■S^^^^5R»^^g>S- [HAT grand old Saxon word, HOME, has for ages held a peerless place wherever the English lan- guage is spoken. And thus do we find it, under every zone, embalmed in song, cherished in the memory, and enshrined in the heart! Too much, therefore, can scarcely be said on such a theme, nor too devoted a service rendered to such a cause. And knowing as we do how largely, in this country. Home Life influences both the individual and the State, we oome to present the off'ering of Our Tribute in the imperish- able form of A BOOK, for the acceptance and appreciation of a Home-loving people! The object of this, our labor, is to link — as in a marriage tie — this venerable and comprehensive Avord '• home " Avith that other word of classic mold, but of modern application, — "ADORNMENT." And with the whole-hearted enthusiasm of " match-makers," we sincerely hope and believe that they will be found to be not " unequally yoked." [V] vi PREFACE. We are of the opinion that no attempt at " an alliance " of this nature has ever be/ore been so wisely planned and so successfully consummated. It only remains, therefore, for us to bid a universal welcome to the Bridal! The homes of the past have been as redolent of virtue and affection as can be claimed for those of our OAvn day; but the age has advanced in all those accessories which give to modern life its charm, and for a " Home " now to be without 'ts " Adornments," would be a return to a primitive condition that would ill accord with the scale and quality of social existence everywhere around us. The volume here jiresented comprehends and supplies, in its completeness, this felt need eminently more than any hitherto offered to the public. The departments it covers embrace the whole domain of " Home and its Adornments," from the most enlightened, cultivated, and reliable sources ])ossible. Under the firm belief that " a thing of beauty is a joy forever," we have reason to expect that our Home Life will become radiated with a brighter glow, from the Alliance of Adornment with Domesticity; while the influence of such elements, acting as a Kindergarten, will daily and hourly impress on both young and old its " Object- Lessons " of in- struction with ever softening and refining influences. Economy, which holds so prominent a place in oiir mod- em household administration, finds a most signal recognition in the work here presented. Recipes of great practical valite, are lavishly scattered among its pages; while the Useful, as well as the Ornamental, has in each Department received the most particular attention. PREFACE. Vll " The least said, the soonest mended," is a well-known proverb; and though we have no reason to fear " a break- age " among any of the numerous articles for use or orna- ment cabineted within the binding of this volume, yet we would on no account exhaust the reader's patience with a long Preface. Every new venture expects the favoring breeze of popularity to carry it safely into port. And if our numerous friends will only be kind enough to judge of thi» work by its merits, we shall then have no fear for the results. THE PUBLISHEES. • MTU ''^1''^ n—- <^(anninf, ^Udm^, and t^^im^^nf <:Mmp06. CHAPTER I. General Considerations. — Ideal Homes, — Renting and Pui'- chasing. — Contracting the Work. — Paying for Homes Gradually 25 CHAPTER n. How to Plan a House. — Hints as to How to Proceed. — Kinds of Lumber to Use. — Suggestions Worth Noting. — Painting- 30 CHAPTER in. Ornamentation. — Appearance of a House. — Secret of At- tractive Buildings. — The Place to Put Ornaments. — Little Expense with Good Results. — The Front En- trance. — Portico. — Beauty of Outline. — Cornice. — Gable .36 [vlil] CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER IV. Buildings of Wood, theii' Economy. — Kinds of Wood to Use. — Erecting the Building. — Direction Therefor. — Rendering Wooden Buildings Warm. — Back Plaster- ing. — How to Make a Wooden Dwelling Nearly Pire- Proof 39 CHAPTER V. Durable Floors. — A Better Plan for Floors Suggested. — Open Joints and How to Prevent Them. — Inside Fin- ish. — The Best Woods and How to Use Them. — Pre- vention of Swelling in Lumber 45 CHAPTER VI. Staircases. — Directions for Building. — New Style of Ban- isters. — Rear Staircase. — Hard Woods. — Black- Wal- nxit. — How to Finish a House in Hard Wood. — Veneering Hard Woods 61 CHAPTER VII. Something more Durable. — Brick and Stone Houses. — Their Cost. — Veneer Brick and Stone Work. — How to Prevent Brick Walls from Sweating. — Stone Ti-im- mings for Brick Houses 57 CHAPTER VIII. Valuable Suggestions and Rules. — Methods of Estimating Work and Material. — How to Find the Amount of Liimber Necessary to Erect a Given Building. — Prices of Labor — - - 61 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. House Painting. — Its Philosophy. — Best Time to Paint. — Kinds of Paint. — Colors. — ISIixing. — Oils and Driers. — Applying Paints. — Priming. — Second Coat. — Finishing Coat. — Brushes. — General Suggestions. — Inside Paint- ing. — Varnishing. — Graining. — Graining Tools. — The Ground. — Graining Colors. — Oil-Finish 65 CHAPTER X. Descrii)tions and Specifications Continued. — Lathing and Plastering. — Carpenter Work. — Tin Roofs. — Crestings and Finials. — Dcx)rs, Windows, Blinds, and Shiitters. — Inside Finish. — Main Room and Kitchen. — Plumbing. — Glazing. — Storm Doors 76 CHAPTER XL Heating and Ventilation. — Open Fire-Places. — Grates and Furnaces — Steam Heating. — How to Ventilate. — Im- pure Air. — Nature's Disinfectants 91 CHAPTER XIL Situation and Surroundings. — Selecting a Healthy Site. — How to Secure Good Drainage. — Pure Water. — Danger from Stagnant Pools. — How a House Should Front. — Sunshine. — Its Value. — Shade Trees 97 CHAPTER XIIL The Primitive House. — Our Noble Ancestors. — Modern Residences. — How to Build a House and Make Addi- tions to It. — A Simple Cottage. — Design I. (5 illustra- tions.) .- 102 CONTIINTS. xi CHAPTER XIV. An Attractive Cottage Home for People with Small Means. — How Constructed. — The Cost. — How to Paint It. — Design II. (2 illustrations.) Ill CHAPTER XV. A Neat, Symmetrical Story-and-a-half House at Moderate Cost. — Description of Its Arrangement. — Its Advan- tages over a One-story House. — Some Novel Features. — Design III. (3 illustrations). — Design IV. (2 il- histrations.) -- 115 CHAPTER XVI. Story-and-a-half houses Continued. — A House that "Will Admit Sunlight to Every Room. — Appearance Made Subordinate to Ai-rangement of Rooms. — An Excellent Floor Plan. — Design V. (2 illustrations) 125 CHAPTER XVII. A Rural Cottage Home. — A Plan that Combines Convenience and Beauty. — Simple Adornments that Add to Comfort. — Perspective View of a Picturesque Gothic House. — Design VI. (2 illustrations) — Design VII. (with il- lustration.) - 128 CHAPTER XVIII. More Durable Material. — A Solid Gothic House. — Style, not New but Popular. — Description of the Plans — Cost of Erection. — Design VIII. (3 illustrations.) — Exten- sive Farm Residence and Bam. — Design IX. (2 illus- trations.) 132 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIX. An Elegant Brick Residence. — Comfort and Beauty Com- bineil. — Description of Plan, Materials, and Construc- tion. — Design X. (2 illustrations.) — A Modem Yilla. — Design XI. ("with illustration.) 138 CHAPTER XX. How to Build a Summer Cottage. — Cheap, but Attractive Houses in the Hot Season. — How to Build a Rustic Arbor. — A Few Suggestions on Beautifying the Sur- roundings with Little Expense 14.'} CHAPTER XXI. Alterations and Additions. — Old Houses Made New. — Caution. — Improving Roofs and Gables. — Remodeling Windows ._ 149 CHAPTER XXn. Outhouses. — Some Practical Suggestions. — How to Have Ice all the Summer. — An Ice-House Preservatory. — Plan for a Cheap but Excellent Fai-m and Carriage Barn 157 CHAPTER XXIII. Landscape Gardening. — General Rules and Observations Applicable to the Improvement of Small Lots from One-Sixteenth to One-Half Acre in Area. — Errors of Common Occurrence. — Style of Gardening. — Exposure and Location. — Grading and Terracing 183 CHAPTER XXIV. Special Features. — Drives and Walks. — Varieties of Shrubs, CONTENTS. xiii Trees, and Flowers to Use.— Laying out and Making Walks and Drivers.— Easy Methods of Laying out Drives. — Grouping and Planting — 1 9^ CHAPTEE XXV. Tree Planting.— The Best Time to Plant.— How to Plant.— Removing and Planting Large Trees. — How to Select. A Good List. — Care of Trees and Success in their Culture. — Fences. — Kinds and their Style. — How to Make them Ornamental - - 202 Woman's Handiwork. CHAPTEE I. Macrame Lace.-The Cause of the Demand for this Kind of Lace.- How to Make it.— Full Description of Every Kind of Knot Used in its Manufacture, with Illustrations.-New Knots De- scribed.— How to Make All Kmds of Designs 188 CHAPTEE 11. Knitting.-Explanation of Terms Used.-Some Splendid Designs for Knitted Lace, Insertions, Borders and Edgings.-Illustrated Designs and Directions for Mittens, Stockings, Etc., Etc 199 CHAPTEE III. Crochet Patterns.-Terms Used in Crochet.-Directions for Making Antique, Point, Shell and Other Laces.. 211 xiv CONTENTS. JnUiioi ^ecoiation, oi zH'ow to Jlffa^e out <^om^ cBeanfifuf. CHAPTER I. •Interior Decoration. — General Considerations. — Objects Aimed at, and Extent of Decoi-ation. — How to Beau- tify Walls and Ceilings. — Wall-Papers. — How to Select the Best 213 CHAPTER II. 'Hints on the Choice of Papers. — What Shades to Select. — Harmony of Colors. — Selecting Paper for Different Rooms.— The Dado 219 CHAPTER III. •How to Hang Wall-Papers. — Sim})le Instructions for Every- body. — Sizing the Walls. — Amoimt of Paper in a Roll. — How to Cut and Match the Paper. — Paste for Wall- Paper 226 CHAPTER IV. Recent Improvements in Needle- Work. — Usefulness now a Prominent Feature. — List and Description of Materi- als.— Prices.— Bead Work 230 CHAPTER V. Embroidery Stitches. — Descriptions of the Best Stem Stitch. — Blanket Stitch. — Chain Stitches. — Herring- Bone, But- ton-Hole, and Satin Stitch. — Kensington Outline. — Janiuii. — Blanket. — Designs for Borders and Centers. —The New Plush Stitch 233 CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER VI. Drawn Work. — An Ancient Art Kevived. — The Secret of Old Mon- asteries. — Explicit Directions for Drawn Work. — Illustrations and Descriptions of the Latest Designs. — The Use of Colored Silks in this Work 242 CHAPTER VII. Some Elegant Designs. — Embroidered Rocking-Chaii' Cover — A Work-Apron. — Designs for Elegant Glass Mii"- rors. — New Style of Splasher. — Bead Embroidered News-Rack. — Handsome Table-Cover. — A Piano Scarf in Plush Applique Work 249 CHAPTER VIII. Hangings for Doors, Halls, and Windows. — How to Make them and of What to Make them. — Elegant Effects at Small Cost. — How to Use the Odds and Ends in Ren- dering the House more Beautiful. — Cost of Materials. . 259 CHAPTER IX. Screens.— How to Make them. — Materials. — How to Use Screens to Advantage. — Ebonizing Wood. — Painted Screens. — How to Use Discarded Material to Advan- tage ill Covering Panels for Screens. — Embroidered Screens. — How to Make the Frames 266 CHAPTER X. ED\broidered Screens. — Japanese Piecework. — A Patriotic Screen. — The Uses of Old Material. — A Queer Use for •in Old Clothes-Horse. — Lambrequins. — Tables. — Cabi- lets. — Odd and Ends. — Use up the Pieces .... 272 xvi CONTiJNTS. CHAPTER XL Some New Designs in Embroidery. — Lambrequin and Cur- tains. — Materials to Use, and How to Construct. — An Elegant Sofa Pillow. — A New Ai)i)lique Design. — Lace Lambrequin 282 CHAPTER XII. Ceramics and Etchings. — Painting Vases and Placques in Oil Colors Witliout "Firing." — Full Directions for the Work. — How to Secure Good Effects in Coloring. — Etching with Ink, a New and Useful Art.— Beautiful Work for Skillful Hands 284 CHAPTER XIII. Bed-Rooms. — How to Make them Cheerful, Comfortable, and Healthful. — Bed-Room Furniture. — Cheap but Useful Furniture. — How to Make a Bed-Room Table. — Wash-Stand with Drapery 1 294 PART FOtJR. i^^e (^aU, (fidtuie, and (^tojta^ation cf ^^^CoweU. CHAPTER I. The Culture of Flowers. — How to Have Thriving Plants and Abundance of Flowers. — Useful Suggestions. — How to Construct and Manage Hot-Beds and Flower- Eeds 303 CHAPTER II. Description of Varieties. — A List of Bulbs, with Methods of Treatment. — Climbers. — Annuals. — Varieties Suitable for all Purposes 311 CONTENTS. xvii- CHAPTER III. Window Gardening. — How to Have Flowers all Winter. — Best Varieties for Winter Use. — How to C:u(^ for the Flowers. — Their Arrangement in the Window 327 CHAPTER IV. Preservincf Natural Flowers. — An Art worth Knowing. — How to Keep Natural Flowers for a Long Time. — Pre- serving by tha Sand Process. — The Sulphur Process. — Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. — An Elegant Art. — Arranofement of Flowers 333 CHAPTER I. Brush and Pigment. — Painting in Oil and Water Colors. — Full Instructions for Both. — Panel Painting. — Painting Plaques and Vases. — An Elegant Art. — Beautifying the Home. — A New Ware for Painting. — Oil Colors on Silk, Satin, and Plush. — Water Colors. — Bowl Paint- injr - - - 339 CHAPTER II. Crystal Ambrotypes, or Photo-Enamel. — How to Paint Photographs. — Explicit Directions for the Painting. — Materials and their Use. — Decalcomania, or the Art of Transferring Pictures. — Transferring Pictures to Wood, Stone, Glass, Silk, Satin, etc. — Easy and Inexpensive Ways of Decorating 345 xviii CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. Something Novel in Embroidery. — Fish Scales. — How to Mako Bags and Sacliets. — Cover for a Baby's Crib. — Oval Frames for Photographs. — Baskets. — A Kitchen Table Transformed into a Library Table. — How to Make Rugs. — Sheepskin Rugs 349 CHAPTER IV. Encaustic Tiles. — Their Durability. — How to Use them. — Paving Hearths. — Cost. — Mantels. — How to Get them. — Cabinets. — Home Decoration of Tiles. — Lin- crusta- Walton - 355 CHAPTER V. Dyeing and Bleaching. — Dyeing Cotton. — How to Treat the Fabrics. — Directions for all Leading Colors. — Dyeing Woolens. — Aniline Colors. — Coloring Straw Hats. — How to Make Mordants. — "Sour." — Dye for Feathers. — Bleaching Sponge. — To Whiten Lace. — Bleaching Straw Goods. — Cleaning O.strich Feathers. — Bleaching Ivory, Prints, and Printed Books. — Washing Fluid . . 360 <^ii&e£otd (fomjicndium of JYew and VafuaSfe I. Hints on Health. — Hints on Home Decoration. — Use- ful Toilet Recipes. — Varnishes. — Paints. — Staining Woods. — Cleaning and Scouring. — Cleaning Fabrics. — Cements. — Renewing Old and Defsiced Manuscripts. — Kecipes for Making Colored Inks. — Lead E.xploding. — CONTENTS. SIX To Keep Wagon Tires on the Wheels.— The U. S. Government Tempering Secret. — U. S. Mint Test for Counterfeit Silver 377 II. HOUSEKEEPER'S MANUAL OF COOKING. Kitchen UtensUs. — Soups. — How to make them. — Fish. — Directions for Cooking. — Poultry and Game. — Hashes and Gravies. — Meats. — Salads, Sauces, and Pickles. — Relishes. — Puddings. — Pies. — Custards. — Bread. — Cakes. — Ices. — Preserving and Canning Fruits. — Bev- erages. — Giving Dinners. — Table Etiquette. — Invita- lions. — Bills of Fare 417 General Index 486 ^4^ •"^nsY^ »^iis^ List of Illustrations. -^-302S*^ FIG. rAGf. 1. Sash Ventilation for Dwelling Houses 95 2. The Log Cabin. lOr. 3. A Cheap Prairie Ct)TTA(;E. Cost, under §50. Ground Plan 105 4. Elevation Plan of Same lOo 5. The Same Enlarged 107 6. The Same Transformed into Convenient itousE. Ground Plan. 1 08 7. Elevation Plan of Same 109 8. Attractive Cottage Home on Economical Scale. Cost $600. Ground Plan. 112 9. Elevation Plan of Same. 1 1.3 10. Story-and-a-half House for City Residence. Cost, $1300. Ground Plan 116 1 1. Chamber Plan of Same 117 12. Elevation Plan of Same 119 13. Another Style for Story-and-a-half House. Cost, $900. Ground Plan 122 14. Elevation Plan of Same 123 15. Story-and-a-half Suburban Residence. Cost, $1600. Ground Floor 126 16. Elevation Plan of Same 126 17. A Rural Cottage Home. Cost, $1500. Ground Floor 129 18. Elevation Plan of Same. 1 29 19. Modern Gothic Roof Story-and-a-half House. Cost, $1700. Elevation and Perspective 130 20. Substantial Gothic Dwelling. Cost, $ 5000. Ground Floor 133 [XX] ILLUSTRATIONS. xxi 21. Chamber Flook of Same 134 22. Elevation Plan of Same 134 23. Extensive Farm Residence, with Barn and Out- buildings. Ground Plan and Second Floor. . . 136 24. Elevation a-nd Perspective of Same.. 136 25. Elegant Buick Residence. — A City Erection. Cost $5000. First Floor Plan 1 40 26. Elevation And Perspective of Same 140 27. Elegant Modern Villa. Elevation and Per- spective 142 28. Ornamental Iron Castings for Roofs, Gables, Etc. 151 29. The Same 152 30. The Same 153 31. Attractive Designs for Windows 154 32. The Same. - 155 33. Plan for Ice House and Preservatory Combined. 158 34. Farm AND Carriage Barn Combined. Ground Plan. 160 35. Elevation of Same 161 36. Plan of Carriage Drive in Ornamental Grounds. Egress and Ingress 197 37. Ornamental Fence 208 38. Frieze Pattern Designed by John Leighton, F. S. A., London. - 225 39. Th2 Same. Fred Beck, New York - 225 40. The Same. Lewis C. Tiffany, New York 225 41. Design for Banner Screen 239 42. 43. Two Embroidery Patterns 243 44. Embroidered Pincushion 244 45, 46. Two Silk Counterpanes - - 245 47. Tatted Doyley - 246 48. Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash 247 49. Elegant Rocking-(5iiair 249 50. Embroidered Work- Apron. . . 250 51. Hair Receiver - 251 52. 53. Two Mirrors 252, 253 54. New Style of Splasher - . 253 55. News Rack 253 66. Three-Cornered Table. - - - 254 57. Applique Piano Scarf - - 256 68. Table Scarf in Darned Work. - - 257 59. Three-Panel Screen 267 60. Embroidered Banner Screen. 275 61. Handsome Lambrequin 276 xxii ILLUSTRATIONS. 62. Ornamental Table-Cover 278 (j3. Hall Mirror and Hat Rack Cumbinep. 286 t)4. Hat, Coat, and Umijrei.la Hack 287 6o. Easy Readinc; or Library Cha!r. . . 289 6G. Rocker, The Same 290 67. Useful and Graceful Loinije 291 GS. Hassock on Castors. . 292 69. Bed- Room Furniture 295 70. Wardrobe Bedstead 296 71. Bedstead with Drapery. 297 72. Elegant Foldino Chair. 298 73. Wash-Stand with Drapery 299 74. Water-Lili es. - . 324 75. Wire Flower-Stand. 328 76. Bay-Window. 329 77. Reflected Floral Decoration . 330 78. Group of Scroll-Saw Decorations. 331 79. Lessons in Scroll Sawing, No. 1 340 80. The Same. No. 2. 341 81. The S.uie. No. 3 i 341 82. The Same. No. 4 342 83. The Same. No. 5. . . ^ . 344 84. The Same. No. 6. ...344 85. 86, 87. Instructions in Fine Combinative Work. 348 88, 89, 90, 91. Escutcheons for Key-Hole Ornaments. 348 92. Hand Scroll or Fret Saw 350 03. Tools Employed in Wood Carving. 6 Illustrat'ns. 353 94. A Design for Pr.\ctice 353 Uf), 96. Carving a Wall Pocket. . 358 97. Carving a Book Rack 359 98. Carving a Bkead Platter. .... 360 99. Carvincj a Paper Knife '. 361 100. Carving a Bracket 361 101. Carving a Molding 361 102. Cooking Range . 418 K,%iJ^^.a msi^:: ll 1^ .zz^'^lr^^.; AlIH .^:^T^^ 1 li J, iECTlNG, ':z^)iu^- "z-£)ls^r .^1^ AND^4 INISHING ttOMES. When we mean to build, We first survey the plot, then draw the model ; And when we see the figure of the house. Then iiiust we rate the cost of construction : Which, if we find outweighs ability. What do we then, but draw anew the model In fewer offices ; or at least, desist To build at all. — Kino Henbt IV., Part II, Act I, Scene 3. M (J>^pj_^p»/jv^^ f^ GENEEAL CONSIDERATIONS. — IDEAL HOMES. — RENTING AND PURCHASING. — CONTRACTING THE WORK. iXXo OME. — This word to most of us possesses deep significance. With what reverence do we look back to the home of our childhood, now em- balmed in memory as our heart's dearest treas- ure ! Not a home, do we mean, surrounded with all the luxuries of life, but one, even though humble, w^here there was "plenty and to spare." The old home, with father and mother and its stores of plenty, did not quite content us; we felt a spirit of unrest taking possession of us. Then we were unable to appreciate our blessings as we do now, looking back to them in the light of a riper experience. Points and objects that failed to attract us then, are now so many shrines at which we do homage, and as we achieve success or meet failure, our minds revert to the old home wnth its precious memories. Our ideal home is not like the home of our youth; it Is one that is to meet the wants, as far as our means will allow, of our own households, enabling us to enjoy that com- [25] 26 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. fort and independence that can never be appreciated by those whose thought is of to-day, and who let the morrow care for itself. To our mind there is nothing more ennobling than the united efforts of young married people directed to the acquisition of a home. They may be, as the majority are, possessed of limited means; but good health, temperate habits, and frugal saving of earnings, though small, will enable them to purchase or build a cottage and adorn it. Thei'e, when the cares of the day are over, beneath their "own vine and fig-tree," they can recount the successes of the past, and plan for the future. The work done by our own hands, and the money our own sweat has earned, are to us a source of peculiar pride and satisfaction. So a home, earned by the concerted efforts of husband and wife, will possess a charm far greater than if they come in possession of it by heirship. More precious because of its association with their struggles with necessity. The great trouble is that the young people of to-day are not willing to commence so far down the scale ; they ca*mot be content with such an humble beginning as their parents made; and instead of commencing a home soon after mar- riage, they rent and furnish a house in extravagant style, often spending enough in furnishing to pay for a home of comfortable size. All this, we remark, is done with the plea of economy. They promise to build when they have means enough. We who have traveled the path so often, can see their mistake. A false pride has prevented them from accepting humbler quarters, from whence in a few yeai-s they might have gone out to wealth and even opulence. BENTJNG AND PURCHASING. 27 How many instances have we met of those who have rented and fitted up the house of a close landlord, hoping at no distant day to be able to pay for a home of their own ; but month after month, and year after year, the rent bill absorbs the savings, until they have paid out as much as would be required either to pay for a house, or secure one in such a manner as to be gradually brought into their full possession by frugal savings and payments. In our opening chapter we cannot forbear offering a word of encouragement to persons of small means seeking homes, for we know well, from actual experience, what small earnings, carefully saved and judiciously expended, will do in this direction. One need not have too much fear in incurring a safe amount of debt on a home when there is a constant saving going on, and a gradual reduction of the principal can be made. We wish, however, to caution all against one serious mistake, — many times the plan of the house and cost of the same are not definite enough, and the home that was intended, under no circumstances, to exceed in cost the sum of fifteen hundred dollai's, is found very incomplete when that amount has been expended, and it is found, when too late, that the cost will be fully two thousand dollars. It is then found that the loan, which could have been secured on the premises for the first amount named, at a low rate of interest with easy terms of payment, will be hard to obtain for the larger amount ; and should the loan be secured for this last amount, it will necessarily be at a higher rate of interest ; hence the I'isk of paying off the debt is greater. Misfortune, dull bu.sine.ss, or sickness, may curtail the 28 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. earnings, and the result will be inability to meet payments of interest and on principal, and the ghost of foreclosure of mortgage haunts the homestead. After a struggle, perhaps of many years, the unfortunate owner is obliged to give up, and with wife and family seek more humble quarters with monthly rental. We present this picture to place all of small means on their guard. Be sure not to build too large; know what the cost to coTnplete the home will be before commencing. It is better to live in a rented house than to go through the anxiety, annoyance, trouble, and disappointment of almost paying for a home and then seeing it taken from you, your labor lost, and your earnings swept away. This state of affairs need not occur, except in rare instances, if anything like a reasonable amount of fore- thought and good judgment is exercised. The usual way, and the best way, for people of only moderate means to build anything of much cost, and be sure of a knowledge of the sum total when completed, is to contract the work for a given sum; and if for a house of not much pretension, the better way is to have a plan, if possible, from some architect of known ability and of a good reputation. He can em- body in his plan even every little thing about a house, from a sliding door down to a set of drawers in the kitchen pantry, or cleats and shelves in the closets, thus obviating the risk of the bulkier 's never-failing desire to run up a heavy bill of "extras" on the completion of the job, as too many of them try to make it larger than it should be for the amc^unt of work done. In the larger cities and towns where the services of a good architect can be had, it is always advisable to employ CONTRACTING THE WORK. 29 one, at least to do the planning and preparing of the contract and specifications for letting the work, if not for superin- tending. A good set of plans and specifications, carefully executed, can be followed even by a man comparatively un- accustomed to such things, with sufficient precision to dis- cover any great variation the contractor might try to make in the building. But for buildings of much pretension there is no better evidence of the benefits of a good plan and super- intendency of the work from day to day as it progresses, by a competent architect, than the fact that in large cities there are men known as '' building speculators," who do not build without definite plans and usually superintendents. But for the majority who will read this book, and whom we hope in a measure to assist, in the smaller cities and towns, villages and country homes, it is not always easy to get the professional assistance required, and for their benefit we wish to offer a few suggestions, before proceeding to the dis- cussion of other matters and the description of the accom- panying plates. (!1fiaf»1"eir If. HOW TO PLAN A HOUSE. — HINTS AS TO HOW TO PROCEED. — KINDS OF LUMBER TO USE. — SUGGESTIONS WORTH NOTING. — PA INTING. oJOio N the first place, we assume that a small cottage is to be built. The only one to apply to in the village is one of the two or three carpentei*s, who perhaps knows little of the real conveniences of life that may be introduced into the small cottage, or who does not seem to rise above the one thought that a certain number of rooms after some stereotyped pattern he has been familiar with, is all that is required. We do not mean to say this is always the case, for sometimes the carpenter exercises a good amount of ability in the arrangement of rooms in the small houses that come under his hand. If you cannot secui-e the help of a competent carpenter, you should commence by carefully calculating the amount of room you must have, examining the houses of some of your acipiaintances, and comparing sizes and arrangement of rooms ; and if you can refer to some book of plates and HOIV TO PLAN A HOUSE. 31 arrangement of space and simple forms of exterior finish, such as this work is intended to furnish, much assistance can be obtained in designing your house. Outhne to a certain scale, if in ever so crude a form, the rooms, with the dimensions marked on the same, also giving outside measure of the whole building. Locate the doors and windows where they will give the best light and most room for the arrangement of the furniture, M^hen the building is completed. How many times these two important things — doors and windows — have, for the want of a little forethought, been so arranged that the sunlight cannot be admitted as it should be, or in the position to fail to secure the ventilation that might be easily obtained in the summer time by open windows. A bed room should, if possible, have two windows; and if on a corner, one on each of the two sides, thereby securing a draft of air in the heat of the summer, which could not be obtained by one window, or two on the same side. The doors should be located as far as possible from the corners of rooms, and so as to come opposite the windows, that they too may help to secure a thorough ventilation in the heat of summer. Now from the specifications given in succeeding chapters can be found something bearing upon almost every point, so that the amateur can get up specifications and contract that shall quite completely cover all necessary particulars on a house of the kind under consideration. The elevation will liave to be determined, the height of posts, and distance between ceiling and floor, and height of second story. This ia meant to be a perfectly plain stor3^-and-a-half cottage, devoid of much ornamentation. 32 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Now from the carpenters who are to figure on the work, you can discover any gross error you have made in your terms or description of things. This is supposing you do not have an average good carpenter to apply to for assistance in making the plans and specifications ; but most carpenters are capable of studying out floor plans, and making out specifications in some form or other ; and in case you want to build a house similar to the one we have been discussing, and you apply to a builder, he will, under your directions, prepare a floor arrangement and specifications, with the understanding that he Is to compete with whoever else in his line you may deem it proper to call in; and if you do not award him the job, you are to remunerate him for his sketches. Now with the aid of what you will find in succeeding chapters of this work, you can carefully read over his specifications and compare them with those we have given, and see where omissions have been made by him, or descrip- tion of particulars left incomplete; also, where the quality of material is not what it should be. By referring to the chapter containing the estimates of quantities of the diflferent forms of building material, yo« can ascertain very nearly the different amounts needed in constructing your house. For instance, brick that are the usual size, 2x4x8 inches, require 22 to the cubic foot, or in building a common chimney 16 inches square, it will take 30 brick to the foot in height. Thus you will find in this work all the different methods of estimating buildings, commonly used by builders. These will all be of assistance, particularly in country places. They will be of special value to the farmer, whether HOW TO PROCEED. 33 he is erecting a house, or some of the many diflf'erent kinds of farm buildings, where usually all materials are furnished and the labor contracted by the day to execute the work. He commences in the fall, after farming work is well out of the way, and determines what he wants for a building, and the size of the same, cutting from his own forest and hauling to the mill the logs to cut out all of the different dimensions and kinds of materials, which shoultl then be piled up to dry. All material intended for finishing, inside and outside, such as flooring, clapboarding, or weather- boarding, casings and moldings, should be thoroughly dried out and seasoned, so that it can be matched, planed, re-sawed, and got into shape for putting up. In fact, all timber should be thoroughly seasoned, for, if put up before dry, it is always "getting out of shape," as it is termed, warping and twisting badly, doors and window-frames opening joint, the plastering cracking, frame settling, and openings appearing under the base-boards. All of this may be caused, even where the finish is dry, by putting in the framing when it is wet, and covering it up before it has time to di-y, wiiich it will do after fires are in the house, and produce the results above mentioned. Therefore, if the framincf lumber cannot have time to be dried in the pile, it should be allowed to stand three or four weeks or more in the building, before plastering. All floor joists for the second floor should be sized to a uniform width, and all outside and inside studding should be treated in the same manner ; then the walls will come even, and there will be no trouble by the variations in widths of studding. Any kind of lumber will dry sufiiciently in the 3 .S4. OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. open air, piled up openly with free access for the air to pass •through, except in case of that used for doors, sivsh, and blinds, which nuist be kiln-dried after being dressed ; or as is usual with doors, u'hen framed together before gliiing, placed in the kiln for a few days. Pine lumber for dooi-s, sash, and blimis should be soft, as that which is hard and glassy, or what is known as Norway pine, will warp when the door comes to be used. For painted work it don't matter HO much if some sap is used on inside finish, unless the work Is to be painted white, when it would take too many coats to cover the dark colors of the sap ; and if any knots are used, either inside or out, they should be thoroughly covered with shellac before painting, a,s it will help to prevent the pitch coming through. If the w^ood Is finlslied in the natural color of the pme, it must first Ix^ made perfectly smooth with sand-paper, if a good job Ls wanted, and then given one coat of hard oil finish. When dry, over this spread two coats of good copal or coach varnish; this, when dry, makes a hard, bright, glossy finish, easily kept clean. The wood for the work must be sand- papered with the grain, as any cross rubbing will, when the work is done, show scratches on the surface. When we can have our way, we never paint anything white. The old-time custom, in many parts of the country, of painting the house white, and outside blinds green, we know has a strong hold on the popular mind ; but we think if a little attention is given to the subject, and pains taken to see some houses that are painted in one or more modem colors, most of the adherents to the glaring white and brilliant grec^n will yield to the more harmonious shades that are in better accord with the surroundings. PAINTING. 35 Thase criticisms apply with equal force to the subject of inside finish. We never would paint anything white Paint each room in one or more colors of delicate shades, neutral tints, with nothing having a gaudy appearance, but presenting a quiet harmony in tone and color with the fur- nishing of the room. In papering, the color of paint and tint of paper should always be considered, so that they may blend well. (See Department of House Painting.) G.MAPTRR Iff. ORNAMENTATION. — APPEARANCE OF A HOUSE. — SECRET OF ATTRACTIVE BUILDINGS. — THE PLACE TO PUT ORNA- MENTS. — LITTLE EXPENSE WITH GOOD RESULTS. — THE FRONT ENTRANCE. — PORTICO. — CORNICE. — GABLE. 3»io HE exterior of a house built of wood can, at a small cost over what the difference would be for a plain one, be made attractive and even beauti- ful in outline and effect; it should, however, be borne in mind that the requnements to produce a fine artistic effect, are not, by any means, in the amount of ornamentation put on, but in tht; kind and in the adaptability of the ornaments of the building. In other words, what is put on for the purpose of ornamenting should be in the right place, and look as if it belonged and had a {>ur])oso there. Many times this is overdone, and the building when completed looks more like a thing constructed upon which to nail tawdry or illy-designed ornaments, than a harmonious whole, with each part blending with the other, and making an object that will attract attention, and challenge admiration, and upon which the eye lingers [36] WHERE TO PUT ORNAMENTS. 37 spell-bound, while the effect on the memory is of something beautiful. All this is very simple of explanation. Sometimes we look upon a house that has this attraction for us, and when we come to think over the amount of ornamenting done and the cost of the same, we are almost astonished that so little could attract attention; but it is simply the arrangement of the design of the building that produces this effect. The front entrance, the portico, and the entrance doors should, we think, be the place to show the most taste in ornamentation. This is the point that must command the most marked attention. Let the outline be easy and graceful, the steps broad, and, where there is plenty of room and the expense can be borne, curve out in an easy manner. Nothing helps to make an inviting entrance like broad, easy steps. The front doors, we think, should be a model of outline, and the ornamentation in good taste. This can be done without much, if any, carvings. We think that most of the costly doors often seen, covered with carved ornaments, are anything but beautiful, and they often look burdened with unmeaning intricacies of the gouge and chisel, where something else, in rich design of form and outline, would have been far more attractive. The portico, again, an important feature so commonly used now on city and town houses, possesses the same characteristics, that is, the same amount of work looks either good or bad according to the taste and skill displayed in the forms of finish, the dimensions of outlines, caps, etc. A column tot) large In proportion, may spoil the good efiect 38 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. of an otherwise fine portico; and the same tlioughtfulness must govern the entire work. The windows, the frames, caps, and sills must, when completed, form an outline that is easy and symmetrical, whatever the design may be. For instance, a window with a neat cap, and the sill cut short off, with nothing to relieve it on the side, or any corbel under the sill, looks ungraceful. It matters not how fine a cap it may have, there will be something lacking. Cornices and gables, again, aie open to the same crit- icism. A cornice may be too broad for the building, or the roof too steep for the width of cornice, either of which pro- duces a strange effect upon the building. The gable can be ornamented in a multitude of ways that are most pleasing to the eye, or the vagaries of the jig and band saw may cumber it down with trash that is most repulsive to look upon. We have briefly touched upon these points, endeavoring to show where beauty in the exterior of our houses may be had, and that, too, in many cases without increasing the cost, if we only use good taste, skill, and fair judgment in the designs. G.Hi^F»l"RR IV. BUILDINGS OF WOOD. — THEIR ECONOMY. — KINDS OF WOOD TO USE.— ERECTING THE BUILDING.— DIRECTIONS THERE- FOR. — RENDERING WOODEN DWELLINGS WARM. — BACK PLASTERING. — HOW TO MAKE A WOODEN DWELLING NEARLY FIRE PROOF. moderate there can one built brick and discussion chapter. <>>•<« N this country with its almost exliaustless resources of forests, including the finest assort- ment of woods for building found on any continent, the choicest kinds can be procured at reasonable figures. The woods best adapted for the framing and finishing of all exterior portions, as well as for the superstructure itself, are pine, spruce, and HEMLOCK, their abundance, improved methods of manufacture, and moderate cost, rendering them the most desirable woods for houses of cost. As far as health is concerned, we think be no house better adapted to its promotion than of wood. However, the obstacles to health in stone buildings are not insurmountable, and a full of these materials will be found in another [39J 40 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. A building of wood cannot well be made as warm as one of brick or stone, but can, in the following manner, be made warm enough for all practical purposes. For an ordi- nary eight-room, two-story building we will imagine three rooms and a hall in first story, the same number on the second floor, and a rear part with kitchen, pantry, and back staircase, and cellar under this, and on second floor of rear part a servant's room and bath-room. The sills should be eight inches square, the floor joists for first floor two by ten inches, and framed into the sills even with the tops of the same, so that when the floor is laid it will just come evenly over the sills, to prevent rats and mice from gaining an entrance, for these pests are one of the most annoying dis- advantages in mast wood dwellings, as they are generally constructed. Now proceed to put up the outer walls of the house of two by four scantling, with ledger boards one by five inches cut in for second story floor joists to rest upon, and plates doubled and spiked down on top of scantling for rafters. Cover the outside of frame with good, sound boards, dry, or nearly so. . The frame should either be dry, or after being put into the building should have a chance to dry before plastering is put on. Boards should be planed, as you cannot make them lay down even with each other if of uneven thickness. On the inside, between the outside studding, nail on f un-ing strips one inch square with the face one and a half inches from outside of studding, and to these lath in the ordinary manner, and put on one good coat of rich, brown mortar; this is known as back 'plastering. We know of no way so well adapted for making a warm house as this. FIRE-PROOF WOODEN BUILDINGS. 41 If youi- frame is not dry, or if studding is wet or green, they might shrink and leave small crevices for air between furring strips and studding. We might observe right here that it is of vast importance to have the timber for floors and partitions well dried, either for wood buildings or brick and stone. Tiiis back plastering wall cost from ten to twelve cents per square yard, including lathing; and considering the great benefit of a warm, dry house, it should be put in most good houses at least. This arrangement leaves an air-space next to the outside boarding, and one next to inside plaster- ing, thereby effectually excluding dampness and wind. Another thing that should be done to help overcome the disadvantage of wood buildings, as compared with brick and stone, is to render them comparatively safe from total de- struction by fire. As usually constructed, walls are so many flues on the outside, leaving free access for draughts of air to fan a fire and spread it with lightning rapidity from cellar to garret, so that when discovered it is beyond control. Such walls also allow vermin to pass up and in between the ceiling and floors, if they once get in below. We over- come this danger, in a measure at least, in the following way : On the level of the second floor, either run the floor- ing in between studding, or nail or cut in horizontal pieces between each studding, and over these fill in a couple of inches of mortar or a course of brick laid in mortar. This closes the passages between plaster and boards effectually, so that there is no draught should the house catch fire by any means on an outside wall. How many times this arrangement alone would have kept a fire burning so slowly 42 OUR HOMES AND THEIR AIJORNMENTS. that it could have been discovered and put out before it had worked its way up to the roof. This is one of the pre- cautions that can be taken to reduce the risk of fire in wooden buiklings. Still, most of our brick dwellings, so far as their internal construction is concerned, are exceed- ingly inflammable ; and if a fire is once well under way, it usually ruins everything inside. Sheathing Paper. But to return to our wood house. On the outside walls we would place one thickness of tarred building paper with the edges lapped, and run it under all finish, as corner boards, cornices, window and door frames, etc. This paper now costs two and three-fourths cents per pound, and comes in rolls of about fifty yards each, on an average, so it will be an easy matter to find out about the amount wanted. Now these two things — building paper and back plas- tering — should be used where a good house is building, but on some cheaper houses it may not always do to incur the expense. The usual plan here, and for most parts of the country, is to paper only in the manner directed above ; but we are sure, that for a good house, it will pay to back plaster also. The roof, if of shingles eighteen inches long, should be laid five and one-half inches to the weather, and should be laid on roof boards with open joints one and a half inches. This is much better for the roof than to have the boarding laid with close edges, or matched, as when the shingles are wet they absorb a large amount of moisture, and are liable to swell and injure the roof. Where roof boarding is open, a better circulation of air is obtained and the shingles dry SHINGLES AND CLAPBOARDS. 43 out quickly, while on the other hand, with boards laid close, the shingles have to dry from the outsider surface entiiely, or nearly so, and require more time, thereby causing a quicker decay of the wood. Shingles make a good roof, as almost every one knows ; and considering their cost, they are not liable to be super- seded by anything else for cheap wooden buildings. The slate roof, of course, is much better, both in appearance and durability, but its cost must exclude it from general use on wooden buildings of moderate cost while shingles are so cheap. The best shingles ever made are the old-style hand- shaved, but very few are now made. By using a little care, in laying sawed shingles, to turn dowm the brash way of the grain, the shingles will last much longer. Clapboarding. The outer walls are usually covered with clapboards of pine, spruce, or, sometimes, basswood; in this locality, usually pine, and this is the best. These boards are made from six-inch strips, one inch thick as they come from the mills; after being allowed to dry they are planed both sides, and jointed, and run through a re-sawing machine, making two clapboards out of each inch piece. Clap- boards should not be laid to exceed four and one-half inches to the weather, and nailed once in twelve inches. In many parts of the Eastern States, particularly Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire, large quantities of spruce clapboards are made from small, straight trees which are cut in four and six-foot lengths, turned in a lathe and then sawed toward the center, the thin edges in, and thick edges out. These make a very good clapboard, but great care must be used 44 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. in putting them on, owing to their liabiHty to split. Some painters claim that on these boards paint will not stick as well; still, in our experience, where dry clapboards have been painted with pure white lead and linseed oil, it has not come off. Basswood is used in only a few localities where the wood is plenty ; if put on dry, and thoroughly nailed and painted without getting wet, it makes a very good covering. Clap- boards are undoubtedly the best covering for outside walls of wood buildings. Boards ten inches wide, running per- pendicularly and battened at the joints, make a good out- side covering. Now-a-days we sometimes venture upon the grounds of our ancestors by shingling outer walls, but usually for effect only, in gables, where a few shingles laid in a panel or above a belt course, cut in some attractive pattern and painted in some rich or warm color, have a pleasing effect. The great disadvantages in the protection of exposed surfaces of wootlen buildings, render the material less desirable for certain classes of residences, and there is not the least doubt that less perishable materials are preferable, other things being equal. (!lHAF»a^RR ^. DURABLE FLOORS. — A BETTER PLAN FOR FLOORS SUG- GESTED. — OPEN JOINTS AND HOW TO PREVENT THEM. — INSIDE FINISH. — THE BEST WOODS AND HOW TO USE THEM. — PREVENTION OF SWELLING IN LUMBER. INE and spruce are the kinds used most for ordinary floors that ai'e to be covered with carpeting. In the Middle and Western States, the flooring is matched and laid the first thing after the roof is on the building. In the Eastern States, a floor of cull boards, planed to an even thickness and unmatched, is laid as soon as the floor joists are in place, and this comes very handy to work upon during the process of constructing the walls, either in wood or brick buildings. After plastering and other work of inside finishing are all done, and the base board in place, the last or upper floor is laid over the cull floor previously laid. The last floor is made of pine, or more commonly there, spruce, unmatched, the edges jointed, and the measure taken for each piece, which is cut in place and laid, commencing on either side of [45] 46 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. the room and meeting in the center, fitting each end to a joint against base board. The last opening near the cen tin- is measured, and a piece fitted and sprung into place, mak- ing the whole floor tight. It is then lined off and nailed on both edges. This makes a very good floor, though costing somewhat more than a matched floor. The edge of such a floor being inside of base board, if there is any settling it will not show an open joint, as in the plan of putting the base board on the floor, when any shrhikage will leave an opening. In kitchens, this plan of laying the floor inside of finish is particularly good, as the floor frequently wears out in time, and has to be replaced, which can be done without disturbing other finish. Hard-wood floors are much used, and those made from the following woods are desirable: White oak, hard maple, cherry, and ash, if straight grained. In the Eastern States, much southern hard pine is used for public buildings and factories. This has a smooth, hard, glassy surface, and makes an excellent floor to stand the wear. We omitted to mention the use of matched sheathing) for outer walls, in connection with our remarks on outside covering; this is desirable many times for fronts in city or town ; but in the way it is usually put on, horizontally, in many places, we think it serves a very poor purpose. If the sheathing applied in this way is ever so dry, the tendency ls to produce leaks and rotten joints. The rain, beating against the wall, works into the joints, and falling in behind window-frames, many times causes leaks and swells open the joints of the sheathing, so that the appear- ance is anything but pleasing. FINISHING. 47 We frequently sheathe the fronts of houses, but we first board and paper outside in the usual manner; then we use perfectly dry matched pine, seven-eighths inch thick and two and a half inchas wide (having it narrow lessens risk of shrinkage), putting it on vertically, and wherever it comes on a window cap, or roof, we turn the tin well up under. The reasons why this method is better are obAdous. It cannot leak, for if any water should get into a joint, it runs out at the lower end, and the joints running vertically, the water will not have much tendency to get into them. Besides, this method looks better. We have, in this city, known of many instances where the fronts of houses sheathed horizontally have leaked, and the owners have had them clapboarded to put a stop to the annoyance. The best finish for all outside wood-work, as is well known, is pine. Nothing else, of the many different kinds of wood, posse&ses the quality of withstanding the storms and weather changes as does pine, when, of course, pro- tected with paint. All outside finish, so far as practicable, should be primed before being put into the building. We have found from practice that the moldings of columns, as they are fitted and cut for then- respective places, should be hollowed out on the back, or heel, of the miter, and the joints painted one coat. A column made from dry pine, with its joints put together in the same way, will not show the joints of the capital and molded bases open, like many frequently seen on new work carelessly put up. The cause of open joints is plain. The water striking the column and running down onto the capital and base, 48 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. thoroughly saturates them ; they swell, and if what is known as the heel, or thick part of the miter, has not been hol- lowed out as above, the outer parts are forced apart, leaving an ugly gap for the painter to cover up; if cut away, it can swell without forcing the joint open on the outer corner. Pine is also mostly used for all kinds of inside finish in the ordinary class of buildings or houses, Whitewood, known in some parts of the South as poplar, is used to some extent where this kind of wood is plentiful, and being a soft wood, it is very easy to work ; the surface finishes down smoothly, and takes paint well. Indeed, it gives a better surface for painted work than it is possible to obtain on pine, and there is no pitch to come through, and but few knots to be found in it. It is not abundant enough to compete with pine in all markets, and although there are very few knots or "shakes" to contend with, it has a way of checking in seasoning, from the ends, that causes a large Avaste to the consumer. These checks extend from one to four feet from either end, and we know of no way to pre- vent this. Having used a large amount of it in years past, we think there is none. Bass-wood, a pure, white, soft, pliable wood, fully as soft as pine, is much used for carriage and sleigh bodies, and indeed for almost any finishing that requires bending for form, where great strength is not demanded. This wood takes on a fine finish, as may be observed by noticing the brilliant, coal-black polish on carriage bodies. It makes a very good inside finish, but must be well secured in place, wherever used, as it will, before being painted, quickly absorb moisture, and warp into all manner of shapes. It has never been used very extensively in cities THE BEST WOODS. 49 for inside finishing, its use being confined principally to certain localities where it is abundant and cheap, and where pine is not so plenty. In the Eastern States the farmer, having trees of this variety in his forest, and no pine, cuts them into finishing lumber, and uses it to save the purchase of pine. Like whitewood, it is much used in cabinet work for drawers and backing of furniture. It resembles the whitewood in most respects, being free from knots, and liable to checking in the ends during seasoning, but it is softer and whiter. The woods enumerated in the foregoing list comprise those most used for painted work on interior finish, save in California, where redwood is used very largely. This wood has the peculiar disadvantage of shrinking endwise of the grain. In either of the two woods mentioned in comparison witli pine, neither is so well suited for doors and sash, as they will warp, and must be secured in place to something solid. This is particularly true of bass-wood. Whitewood is sometimes used for doors, but does not stand like pine; so when we consider the question of general utility, pine is really the best of all, and we know of noth- ing that retains its form as weD. For inside finish, it should be got out some time before being put into the building, and kiln-dried either before or after work- ing; and the best and only way anything like a good house should be finished, is in the following manner: The plastering should be put on around all doors, windows, wainscotings, and base, and all the plaster work should be thoroughly dry before the lumber for finish is taken into the house, as dry pine, taken into even a damp room and left for a few days, will absorb considerable moisture, and if 4 50 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. put on the walls before it is dry, it will surely open in the joints. A very good plan, which we have seen used, is to give lumber for casings or architraves, a coat of shellac on the back side, which keeps the moisture, if there be any in the wall, from entt^ring the wood. For finishing cheap houses, th(^ plan most generally followed, is to put on ])last('r ground for the base board only, and then put on the first member of the architrave around doors and windows, and finish the plastering to this, and after mortar is dry, to put on a hand 'molding, as it is called, lapping over the casing and back onto the plaster, covering the joint between casing and the mortar. I'liis plan answers v(ny well for cheap houses, the only difficulty being that the finish first put on will swell up by contact with wet mortar and cause open joints, which will liavp to be filled with putty by the painter. CmAPirRK ^I. STAIR CASES. — DIRECTIONS FOR BUILDING. — NEW STYLE OF BANISTERS. — REAR STAIRCASE. — HARD WOODS. — BLACK- WALNUT. — HOW TO FINISH A HOUSE IN HARD WOOD. — VENEERING HARD WOODS. oJOio HE staircase in the better class of houses should not be built, save the rough carriages, until after plastering is completed and dry, for the rea- sons before stated. The "treads and risers" for all good stairs should be ganed, or housed in, to back stringer, as the term is used; and where the face stringer is cased up or made what is known as a close stringer, they should be housed into this also, and these grooves should be cut on a bevel, and wedged and glued in place solid and nailed. In the corner, between the stringers, a small, square, pine block, some six inches long, should be glued in against "tread" and "riser." This holds the stairs, or "treads "and "risers," solidly together, and prevents the squeaking so often heard when going up and down many apparently good flights of stau's. All kinds of wood used for inside finish are used in stair work. [51] 52 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Until within a few years, the post at foot of stairs, or newel post, banisters, and rail have been made from black- walnut, except in the more pretentious houses, where mahogany is sometimes used. But at the present, in the East, very little black-walnut is used for stair work, ash, oak, and butternut, being substituted. We have now, in ordinary houses even, broken away, in a measure at least, from the old-style turned newel post and banister, and in their place you find a square post for a newel, ornamented in a simple and pleasing manner on the base and shaft, with a cap formed in a graceful outline to the top, for a gas-light stand, or candelabrum, or if this is not wanted, an orna- ment of wood. On the side of staircase, in place of the banisters is found a neat design for a series of cut panels, made quite open, so as not to look too " boxey," and this surmounted by the rail. If there is room in the arrangement to turn the stair once, at least, when part way up, on a level landing, with a square angle post at the comer, the effect is good. The level landing of course takes a little more room. An ordi- nary flight of stairs can be made in a neat and simple de- sign, something after the plan stated above, at a cost very little more than the old style, and it looks very much better. A window of stained glass, over a stancase, or at a landing part way up, gives a very pretty effect of color in the hall below. Rear or back stairs are not always housed in the stringer, but in a good house it is better, and there should never be over three " winders " in turning a comer, as when more are used it renders the steps so narrow that a person going down is liable to fall. In building, always bear in mind that back stairs are HARD WOOD FINISH. 53 nsed as much by nearly all the occupants as the front stairs, and therefore as much care should be taken in their construction. Kinds of Hard Wood Generally Used in Inside Finishing, and the Manner of Using and Applying the Same. The following constitute the principal kinds of native hard woods used: Black-walnut, black or brown ash, butternut, white ash, white maple, white oak, red oak, red cherry, and sometimes birch and beech, but not to any great extent. The days of black-walnut are already numbered for lavish use in finishing buildings, and even for furniture. The consumption of this beautiful wood in the last ten years has been so great that the scarcity now felt is causing the price to increase constantly ; and in a few years, at most, it will be used but little, even in furniture, and that of the most costly kind. Although it is an elegant wood, and better adapted for furniture, we think that the finish of our houses and public buildings loses nothing by the substitution of the lighter hard-woods in its stead. Spending several weeks recently in the cities of New York and Boston, and visiting many fine houses as well as public buildings, the author observed the general absence of black-walnut finish even among the opulent. In the West, where we can obtain it at a lower price than in the East, we still adhere to it. Although, in our own practice for the last four years we have been in favor of using light, hard-woods, exclusive of any trimming up with black-walnut. We have found, in the majority of cases, that the prejudice in its favor is so strong that our patrons would overrule our preference, and have the black-walnut. 54 OUB HOMES AND THEIB ADORNMENTS. In the last two years we have finished a few houses in light wood, and the indications are that we shall now soon follow our Eastern friends in its use. The lijiht woods give a welcome, bright effect to an interior, their grain, when finished propeily by the painter, standing out clear and beautiful. A room finished with light woods, in our opinion, presents a more cheerful appearance and has noth- ing of the gloom}'' effects produced by darker woods. Our furniture generally being dark, the variety of upholstering usually produces all the contrast required for effect without the use of walnut finish. The author has now in process of construction a residence to cost twelve thousand dollars, with finishing as follows : The parlor and sitting-room finished in butternut ; the vestibule, front liall, and staircase, all black-walnut; thi^ dining-room, library, and entire remainder of house, in red oak. The finishing of the hall and staircase in walnut was simply a compromise with the proprietor, who in the begfinnino^ was determined to run streaks of walnut all the way through the different rooms, but finally consented to the arrangement given above. In the East, you can find beautiful staircases in light woods, and will be surprised at their beauty. There are, as yet, but feAV in the city of Detroit. The first proceeding with all kinds of hard-wood is to get it thoroughly kiln-dried; and a good amount of care should be usc-d, so tliat the planks or boards will not warp and spring while in the kiln. In securing the best efl'ect of grain, much depends upon the sawyer; the sidings taken off produce fine grain, and quartering the log through is a good way to shoAv the grain. VARIETIES OF HARD WOOD. 55 In our judgment brown ash is one of the richest of our native woods; the pleasing variety of forms the grain assumes, especially the mottled or variegatt^d color (some- times called by dealers, " calico ash ") is very rich, desirable, and much sought after for the Eastern maiket. Most specimens of this wood are of a soft, brashy nature, easily worked, and take on a line, smooth finish Avhen worked down, in consequence of which it is much used in furniture. White oak is an exceedingly tough, hard-wood, and very difficult to w^ork and bring down to a smooth finish. This can of course be done, but it costs a good deal in hand labor to accomplish it. Red oak is less difficult to work, being more of the nature of ash, but tougher; the grain is finely marked in a variety of forms, and the red, bright color gives it a very fine, rich effect when finished. White or hard maple is a very hard, bright wood, and very white (except the heart of the tree), used but littlj for finishing work, but more for floors, the grain being ordinary." Bird's-eye maple is much sought after for car work, and is sometimes used in houses. Red cherry has a very fine grain, and a rich, reddish color, taking on a fine polish, and in some degree resembling some varieties of mahogany. It is now nmch used in the East for finishing staircases, dining-room wainscotings, etc., and is very beautiful for such purposes. It is also used extensively in the manufacture of school desks. Some persons are led astray in regard to the difference in cost of finishing in hard-woods and pine; the price per thousand feet is about the same, but the difference in cost arises from the fact that there is always more waste in hard- 66 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. wood than pine, and that more hand labor is required to produce a fine job of joining in hard- wood. Doors of hard-wood should always be made by veneering on pine. Make, first, a plain pine stile and rail door, and make the panels of the kind of hard- wood intended; then glue upon the pine frame, covering it up entirely, a thin covering of the hard- wood desired, one-fourth to three- eighths of an inch thick. When this work is dry, cut the desired moldings of the hard-wood, and secure them on the edges against rail and stiles, as in any other door. Such a door, if properly made, will stand without warping. The pine, being better to keep ti-ue than any known wood, makes an excellent foundation to hold the liard-wood. Another plan in common use for making a hard-wOod door, two and one-fourth inches thick, for instance, is to make two doors of equal thickness and glue them together, both being framed separately. When thus glued together, a door is much stronger and less Hable to warp than one equally as thick made of a single piece of wood. G.Fii^F»a"RFi VM. SOMETHING MORE DURABLE. — BRICK AND STONE HOUSES. — THEIR COST. — VENEER BRICK AND STONE WORK. — HOW TO PREVENT BRICK WALLS FROM SWEATING. — STONE TRIMMINGS FOR BRICK HOUSES. oKKo HERE is something in the word stone suggestive of stabDity ; something that conveys the idea of endurance, solidity, and capabihty to stand the tempest, the wear of winter's ice and snow, and of summer's parching rays. This ability to withstand the forces of the elements, and to maintain intact in spite of these forces, renders stone the natural product of nature, and brick the offspring of man's genius, especially suitable for purposes of building, both for domestic and commercial use. And then it gratifies the natural vanity of a man to be able to erect a residence of such material as will last for generations, and serve as a land-mark of family history. One jrreat advantaore of brick or stone work is, that when once properly put up, it requires but little outlay to keep it in good repair, while, on the other hand, a building of wood [57] 58 OUK HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. must be looked after frequently, and repainted every few years, to preserve it from decay and keep it in good ap- pearance. A brick house requires moi'e care than stone, as the bricks, in time, become discolored, and rec^uire to be stained and penciled over. Security from fiie is another consideration in favor of stone and brick, houses of these mat^-rials beinof less liable to take fire from the outside ; but when once well started in- side, a fire will do as much damage to furnishings and contents as in a building of wood. Comparative Cost. The cost of buildings of brick and stone, of courst^. Is much more than of wood, being about twenty-five per cent iiioi-e for brick and more yet for stone. The cost of stone mainly depends upon the locality of the quarry, the quality of the stone itself, the means of transportation, and the ease with which it can be worked. As brick clay is found in almost every locality, the cost of brick depends simply upon the cost of labor, fuel for burn- ing, and the relation of supply and demand. It may be well to state that quality depends much upon the methods and thoroughness of burning the brick. This matter should be looked to in the purchase of brick. Beautiful enameled brick of many colors are now made, but their cost is too great to bring them into general use, though for special pur- poses they give a pleasing effect. Veneer Brick and Stone Work. A very nice plan for buikUng what may be called a half -stone or veneer-stone house, is as follows: On the VENEER BRICK ASD STONE WORK. 59 completed foundation wall, back some five inches from the outer edge of the water-table, a frame, as for a frame house, is erected of two by six-inch studding in the usual manner, and then boarded on the inside; fill in from the outside five inches thick with brick and mortar against boarding, and on top of water-table, outside of brick and mortar, set with cement a veneer of sawed stone four inches thick, of con- venient size, and anchor each stone to the studding with small iron hooks. 80 build up, fitting in window sills and caps, and finish with modern gothic roof, and the house is, to all outward appearance, of solid stone. We can see no reason why buildings erected by this plan are not as durable as most houses. The wood is thoroughly protected, and if the foundation wall is well laid, no damage can arise from settling. We know of some such houses that have been standing for many years, and are said to be in a perfect state of preservation. Brick veneer is made on the same principle. One four- inch course of brick is laid from the foundation to top of outer wall, anchored once in five courses, and the building is taken for one of solid brick. The framing for these should be quite dry, and rendered very strong by bridging. This class of buildings, we think, should not be encour- aged in city or town where houses are so compact, as in case of fire the whole wall may tumble down when least expected, burying the firemen under it. Being but four inches thick, such walls in reality furnish but little protec- tion against intense heat from surrounding buildings on fiie. Houses of brick or stone are, in consequence of thick walls, much warmer in winter and cooler in summer than buildings of wood. The walls should be furred by fasten- 60 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. ing strips to them and lathing to these strips, leaving a dead space between the plaster and brick or stone. This keeps out the moisture, and prevents the annoyance of " sweating " walls. If the cellar of any house is not a perfectly dry onc^ put on one coat of good mortar overhead. This effectually prevents the passing of dampness from the cellar, and makes a warm first floor. The modern brick houses of more elaborate finish are now trimmed with some of the many fine stones to be found in different localities. The contrast produced by the fine red of the brick and tlie quiet shades of the stone in sills, belting-courses, window and door caps, and the various other ways in which it may be needed, Ls very pleasing indeed. We think it desirable to lay the stone flush with the brick ; this keeps it cleaner, and it stands better. Pro- jecting belts and courses must drop oft' the water, which leaves soiled marks in its course. When the foregoing facts are carefully weighed, we think that the majority will agree with us in saying that when it is intended to put over four thousand dollars into a house, it should be constructed of brick or stone, or both, if the locality is such that it can be done without exagger- ated difference in cost. CaMAF^TRR Vfll, VALUABLE SUGGESTIONS AND RULES. — METHODS OF ESTIMAT- ING WORK AND MATERIAL. — HOW TO FIND THE AMOUNT OF LUMBER NECESSARY TO ERECT A GIVEN BUILDING. — PRICES OF LABOR. o^Xc XCAVATING CELLARS.— This is estimated by the cord of 128 cubic feet, by the square foot, or square yard. One to two dollars per cord is usually paid, according to hardness of the subsoil. Drains, — So much per lineal foot, according to depth and hardness of subsoil. Pipes for drains cost in proportion to their size. Stone-work for foundations, — Usually 16| cubic feet, estimated at so much per perch, laid in the wall, and costs according to kind and quality of stone. Brick-work — Is figured by number of cubic feet in the wall, 22 common brick to the foot. Prices for layuig up the wall vary with cost of labor. Plastering. — This is estimated by the square yard, — for three-coat work, twenty-five cents; and two-coat work, twenty cents per square foot, including mortar. Stucco or plaster cornice work, from thirty cents up, per lineal foot. [611 62 OUR HOMEU AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. For center-pieces of stucco, the cost is two dollars and upward. Carpenter-woi'k. — For framing, compute the number of feet of board measure in frame, and to the cost of this add eight dollars per thousand feet for ordinary framing. For brick walls, allow five dollars per thousand feet for labor; foi- common boarding of walls, roofs, and rough floors, add toth<' cost of boards four dollars per thousand feet for labor ; for shingles, one dollar and fifty cents per thousand for laying. Cornicing — Must be estimated at so much per lineal foot, and costs according to the amount of work. Windows — Are reckoned by the piece, considering finish inside and out, all complete save the glazing. Doors. — Double doors for entrance, if of pine, are twelve dollars per pair upward, according to style, — walnut, from thii-ty dollars upward; common doors, from six dollars up- ward; inside sliding doors, from twenty dollai-s per pair, upward, according to finish. Floors, — Laid, add one dollar to cost of every ten square feet of lumber. For base, the cost is so much per lineal foot for lumber, and three dollars per hundred feet put down ; wainscoting, so nmch pc-r square foot. Staircases. — Common, straight, cylinder staircases, with curved rail, and casings at all angles of struigers, and common newel posts and turned banisters, cost about forty- five dollars; winding stairs, ninety dollars; and so on, the cost varying with the amount of work. Bay- iv indoles,— Oim story, forty-five dollars ; two stories, eighty-five dollars. Claijiboarding or tueather-boarding. — For this work, add to cast of lumber ten dollars ])cr thousand feet, l)ut if much fitting is recjuired this amount will not be enough. METHODS OF ESTIMATING WORK. f;:! Painting — Is computed at so much a square yard ; and for glazing, take the size and consult some good dealer or a good price list. Cresting — Costs so much per lineal foot. Hardware and plumbing — Cost according to the quality of material and the amount of work. In the foregoing estimate the prices quoted are perhaps an average; in the country the cost will usually be less. Measuring. A foot of lumber is a piece 12 inches square and 1 inch thick; a board 12 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and 10 feet long- contains 10 feet of lumber. To measure hoards, — Multiply the length in feet by the width in inches, and divide by 1 2 ; the result is the number of feet in the board if 1 inch thick; if 1^ inches thick, add 4 ; if 1^ inch thick, add | ; if 2 inches thick, the board will contain twice as many feet, and so on. To measure a pile of lumber. — If the boards are of equal length and width, multiply the feet in one board by the number of boards. If the boards are of equal length, but vary in width,, measure each board with a tape-line, (hawing it out as each board is measured; and when the pile is completed, examine the tape-line, find how many feet you have measured off, and multiply this by the length, in feet, of one board. If the boards vary in length, they must be measured separately, or averaged. To find nit'inher of feet in studding, t;^c.— Multiply length and breadth in inches by length in feet, and divide the product by 12. The result will be number of feet in the stick. 64 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. To find how many feet of Ivymher a log will make. — Take the average diameter in inches and subtract 4, square one-fourth of the remainder, and multiply by the length of the log in feet. The result will be the correct number of feet that the log will make. ATUOunt of lumber for a given building. — By apply- ing the foregoing rules, any one may find the number of feet of lumber required for a given building. Begin with sills, and calculate for each kind of lumber separately, adding the results. For clapboarding, add one-third for lapping; for matched flooring, add one-fifth for waste. Shingles. — The number of shingles required for a roof is usually estimated at one thousand for every square, or one hundred square feet; hence, find the square feet in the roof and divide by one hundred, — result is the number of thou- sand shingles. This estimate is ample, and with good shin- gles 1000 should lay 125 to 140 feet. Or, find the area in inches, multiply the width of a shingle by the length exposed to the weather, and divide the area by the product. This gives the number of shingle-s, but there must be allowance made for waste. Shingles are laid from three to six inches to the weather, according to length, and they vary in width, four inches being the average width. For clapboarding, — Add one-third to the number of surface feet to be covered, for boards, 6 inches wide, laid 4J inches to the weather. For flooring, — add one-fifth to the surface feet, for matching. In plastering — It is customary to compute the whole area and deduct one-half the area of doors and windows, but in some places no deduction is made. (!lFiJ^F»a"i^K TX. ^ HOUSE PAINTING.^ ITS PHILOSOPHY. — BEST TIME TO PAINT. — KINDS OF PAINT. — COLORS. — MIXING. — OILS AND DRIERS. — APPLY- ING PAINTS. — PRIMING. — SECOND COAT. — FINISHING COAT. — BRUSHES. — GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. AINT, composed of a mixture of oil and mineral, generally white lead, and applied to wood, iron, and even stone, acts as a preserver by shielding the surface from the action of rain and the atmosphere. A building left unpainted any length of time, absorbs moisture quickly; and besides rendering the rooms unhealthful, by reason of moisture, it decays very rapidly. The best time to apply paint is in the spring or autumn. Cool weather, if dry, is better, as the paint hardens naturally and presents a firmer surface to the action of the elements. In summer, when exposed to the sun, the oil in the paint soaks into the wood and leaves the lead to crumble and wear off quickly ; yet if care is taken t(> apply the paint at proper hours, the action of the sun will atiect it but little. 6 t«^i 6{, OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Kinds of Paint. Pure white lead is the base or body of all durable paints, and is vastly superior to all others for first coats. Owing to the fact, liowover, that it is prepared by an acid process, it is not so good in a pure state for outside coats, as it is in many case^ not thoroughly washed and contains more or less acid, and when so exposed to sun and rain the presence of the acid is liable to make it powder and rub off like whitewash. Zinc, which is prepared by fire process (oxidized), con- tains no acid or other injurious substance; and when mixed with white lead, it forms the best. outside coats, the zinc neutralizing the acid in the lead and giving additional firm- ness to the body. The TYiineral paints contain iron as their base, and are mixed with oil and prepared for use as lead and zinc. Many manufacturers now put up paint in cans, ready for u.se, and there is abundant r(X)m for deception. Consumers should beware and purchase of reliable dealers. Colors. Which color should be used in painting a house, is purely a matter of taste. The surroundings determine this to a great degree. A house surrounded with heavy foliage would require a lighter tint than one standing in an open space. Every house should have two or more tints; the cornice and verandas should be of a contrasting shade with the body of the house, while the shuttere, etc., should have a darker tint than either. Of the various colors, the olive tuits in their different .shades are very pleasing to the eye, also HOUSE PAINTING. 67 lavender, drabs, stone, etc. A pea-green is a very healthful color, and with proper contrasts in veranda and shutters is very pleasing. Mixing Colors. An endless variety of colors and tints can be produced by mixing. The following are only a few of them, — such as may be serviceable : — Stone Color. — White lead and a little black. Drab. — White lead with burnt umber and a little yellow ochre for a warm tint ; raw umber and a little black for a green tint. Sky-blue. — White lead with Prussian blue. Buff. — White lead with yellow ochre. CreaTYi-color. — Add more white to the buflf. Olive-green. — Raw umber with Prussian blue, thinned with boiled oil and turpentine. Pea-green. — White lead with Prussian blue and chrome- yellow. Lead Color. — White lead and black. Oils and Driers. Oils and turpentine should be pure and free from dust and other substances. To assist the process of drying paints, driers are used. Those most in use are sugar of lead, litharge, and white copperas. When ground and mixed with paint, they assist the process of drying very much. Where it does not affect the color, red lead may be used as a drier. Boiled linseed oil with litharge, one gallon of the former with one-fourth pound of the latter reduced to a powder, makes an excellent drier. It should here be aa OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. remarked that driers have a tendency to injure the colors, and hence should not be used in finishing coats. Applying Paints. Before applying paint, the surface to be painted should be carefully cleaned, and all projections of glue, putty, and whiting removed with knife and duster. Knots should be killed by the application of knotting, which is made with red lead, carefully ground and thinned with boiled oil ; another and better plan is to apply a varnish of shellac. If knots are neglected, they give out turpentine and destroy the paint. Shellac is a gum, in natural state, and can be dissolved in alcohol in the proportion of three pounds < )f gum to one gallon of spirits ; twenty-four hours is sufR^ c'ient time to dissolve it, when it is known as shellac vai'nish, and by adding proper coloring matter, it forms an excellent varnish for many purposes. Paint should never be applied to damp or wet surfaces, as it is sure to peel off. Priming. After the knotting is complete, the priming, or first coat, should be applied. This coat should be composed chiefly of white lead, mixed with a very small quantity of red lead, and should be about the thickness of milk. Eight to twelve gallons of oil to every one hundred pounds of lead, is about the proportion ; and one pound should cover fifteen to twenty square yards. It is not necessary that this first or priming coat should be of the color intended for finishing, as the later coats will secure the desired tint. In some cases a second priming coat, thinner than the first, is laid on, in which case two coats more will make an extra good job of painting. HOUSE FAINTING. 60 After the priming coat is quite dry, all nail-holes, cracks, and other defects should be filled with putty, smoothing all rough places with fine sand-paper. In priming old walls, remove dnt and decayed wood with sand-paper and pumice- stone ; shellac sizing may also be applied if the wood is some- Avhat porous, and more red lead used than on first coat for new work. If brick buildings are to be painted, the priming coat should be native minerals, such as ochres, Venetian red, or iron, with a proper amount of raw linseed oil, as these will adhere more permanently and make a good foundation for future coats. Second Coat. This coat is a color coat, and the tint, if paint is not already prepared with desired color, can be made from the directions previously given for mixing colors. This coat should be a shade darker than the finishing coat. The paint for this coat should be moderately thick ; if applied in cold weather or under unfavorable circumstances, the quantity of driers must be increased. If the work is to be left shining, this coat should be thinned almost entirely with linseed-oil, in which case no driers will be needed. Finishing Coat. If the work is to be glossy when finished, use more oil than turpentine and no driers ; but if the work is not to be glossy, — -fat, — use turpentine for thinning. Care should be taken to bring this coat to the desired tint, and it should be laid on j ust as soon as the former coat is dry enough to work over. This coat should be of same consistency of the pre- ceding, and laid on with the utmost care. 70 OVR HOMES AND THEIR ADOHNMENrS. Brushes. Brushes are made of all sizes, both round and flat, and are chiefly of bristles; the best for outside work are called wall-brushes, from three to five inches in width. For inside and small work the round brush is best. When out of use, brushes should be carefully washed in turpentine and laid out of the reach of dust. When using, they should be left over night immersed in linseed oil or turpentine. Varnish brushes should be washed in turpentine, and should they be left full of varnish and dry they may be cleaned by soaking in alcohol for twenty-four to thirty-six hours. Where it is practicable, a separate brush should be used in different colors ; especially is this true where delicate tints are used. General Suggestions on Outside Painting. Posts and pillars may be made to represent stone, by the following process: Procure a hand bellows, mash the nozzle down flat; into the nozzle, two inches from end, solder a small funnel, and before the finishing coat of paint dries, throw white sand by means of the funnel and bellows against the pillar. The sand will adhere, and when dry, the work resembles stone very closely. By procuring col- ored sand, pleasing combinations can be made. For barns and other out-houses, the best paints are those which contain iron as a 'base, as the boards are usually rough and this class of paints generally protects such sur- faces as well or better than the finer paints, besides being cheaper. Brushes should be heavy, as they wear very rap- idly. In this class of work, a variety of colors costs no more, and adds greatly to the appearance of the work. BOUSE PAINTING. 71 Inside Painting. Hard woods, as walnut, ash, and oak, look quite well in oil-finish, which is always popular, and presei'ves the wood quite well. The wood should be well filled with a mixtuie of gilder's whiting, or corn-starch and boiled linseed oil to the consistency of cream, applied with a brush ; after stand- ing a little while, the work should be thoroughly wiped oft' with woolen rags. After standing a week, or till well dried, the work should be well sand-papered with No. i- sand-paper or hair- cloth, when another coat should be applied and rubbed off as before. When dry, the work is ready for the finishing or gloss coat, which consists of boiled oil, applied with a soft brush, and if a dead (jluss is wanted, this coat should be rubbed with soft woolen rags. If high gloss is desired, omit the rubbing and repeat the coat. Coach varnish will give a high gloss, but it is liable to damage from scratches. Plastered walls may be painted any desii'able tint by ob- serving the foregoing directions ; it may be well to observe that plaster soaks up more paint than wood, and hence re- quires more coats after the first coat. It is well to give the work a light glue size before applying the next coat, as it will give a much more even gloss. Oil and Shellac Finish. A very cheap and at the same time a popular method of finishing inside wood- work, is to apply one coat of boiled oil, and when dry, apply a finishing coat of varnish and oil mixed, or shellac varnish alone. The natuial grain of the wood is preserved, and it can be kept clean easily ; the wood when thus finished is a shade darker than its natural color. Another plan is to apply two coats of varnish, without the oil, leaving the wood very glossy, but liable to scratch easily. If ever desirable afterward, the wood can be painted as usual. 72 OrrR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Graining. Graining is a tedious but not too difficult business for a person of ordinary intelligence to attempt with a fair degree of success. In the outset, a clear idea of the wood to be represented, should be in mind. A good plan, where the connuoner woods are to be represented, is to procure a board having one or more sound knots and plane it off, and with this for a model, proceed to grain the job in hand. Before the graining properly commences, the work should be made very smooth with sand-paper and putty, and one or more priming coats of white lead should bo laid on and allowed to dry ; the work is then ready for ground toat. The Tools. These are few and comparatively inexpensive, — besides the tMiishes necessary for applying the color, steel combs, coarse an»;o ATHING AND Plastering. — In wooden build- ings the walls should be made even, so that when the plastering is put on, the wall will present no "ins and outs. " This may be effected by trimming all the timbers down to an equal width before lathing. Stone and brick walls should be furred with strips; for brick they are one by two inches, nailed to the bond timbers laid in the walls, once in nine or ten courses, as they are built up, and for stone two by four inches, nailed to plugs or wedges, built up with or driven into the walls. These furring strips are placed sixteen inches apart from center to center, and the lathing nailed to them. In the best houses it is customary to cross-fur on ceiling joists, as when done, the plastering is less liable to crack. [76] CONTRACTS WITH THE CARPENTER. 'J'J Laths should be made of spruce, pine, or other soft woods, and thorouglily seasoned and dried. The mortar should be made of first quality of quicklime and good sharp sand, mixed with plenty of long hair. Ceilings should first be gauged with a mortar of plaster-of -Paris and lime, followed by a coat of hroivning, or common mortar, and finished with a white, hard putty coat made of plaster and quicklime. In the better class of houses, three coats are given to the ceilings, and two to the walls ; this prevents the laths from showing through the plaster. All angles should be smoothed down, and corners made straight and true. Stucco cornice and plaster ornaments for ceilings are giving way to paper, which is now prepared in beautiful designs expressly for ceilings. Carpenter Work. In most parts of the country it is usually the custom to let the contract for building wooden houses to the carpenter, who is frequently a contractor, and sub-contracts the erec- tion to other parties. There is one evil in this method, against which we wish to caution our readers, viz: When the contractor gets the whole job in his hands, he is too liable to seek the lowest piiced sub-contractor for the different kinds of work, such as plastering, painting, etc., and the result is a poor job thi'oughout. The only remedy for this is to have the con- tractor select his subbuilders, and then learn whether they are trustworthy before awarding him the contract. Another plan is to contract the different kinds of work separately, thus securing a better job, as no speculation is involved. 78 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Framing Timbers. These may be of any lasting wood, and hence the kind mast readily obtained will bo used ; spruce, pine, whitewood, poplar, or oak, is suitable. In many localities it is custom- ary to use sills containing about twice as much material as Is necessary. If the foundation Is properly made, of brick or stone, the sills may be two by six inches, but if the house Ls built on piers or posts, the sills should be six by eight inches, or eight inches square, with the corners framed together, and the joists framed in even with top of sills. When smaller timbers are used on brick foundation, the flooring joists are not framed in, but rest on top of sills. The studding should be of good sound wood, free from many knots, two by four inches, cut to an even length, and gained on the side for ledger boards which support second story joists. Each studding should be nailed to the sill with four tenpenny nails; this we believe to be better than the old plan of mortising into the sills, as in that case they are framed very loose, and cannot stand so much rough usage. The plates for rafters to rest upon should be two by four inches, and should be doubled, and spiked down to each studding with thirty-penny nails. The ledger boards, supporting the joists of second story should be of the soundest material, one by five inches, let into the studding and spiked to them. The first and second story joists should be two by ten inches, and the attic joists two by six mchcs. The joist of second story should be spiked to the studding with thirty- jTM'nny nails. The raftors, if for .shingles, should be two by CARPENTER WORK. 79 four inches, but if for slate, two by six; in either case they should be sot sixteen inches apart, center to center, and collared with sound boards nailed to every other pair. At doors and windows the studding should be doubled to give more strength for casings; and where partitions are placed, the floor joists should be doubled. Boarding for outside walls should be of sound pine, spruce, hemlock, or whitewood, one inch thick, planed on one side, laid close joint, and nailed on both edges at every bearing. The same kind of boards should be used for covering the rafters, but the joints should be laid open; and if floors are to be laid double, this kind of board insr will answer for bottom floor, and the attic floor will need no other flooring. Sheathing Paper, see page 42. Shingle Roofing, see page 42. Clapboarding, see page 43. Slate roofs, when of first-cla&s slate, well laid, and all joints perfectly fitted, are the most desirable of all There are many varieties of slate, and, like Joseph's coat, of many colors. It has been the custom to use these different colored slates, arranged in pleasing figures, and presenting a very good eflect, but we are inclined to prefer the jet black slate; nothing is richer, and the color will fade but shghtly. The slate should be seven by.; fourteen inches, cut to any desirable pattern on exposed ends, round, hexagonal, or clipped on the corners. Slate should be laid two and a half inches head cover, that is, each slate should lap over the second one below it that distance, and if the roof is not steep, three-inch Iaj)s will be required. Tlie first course of slate must be doubled, and the last 80 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. course and all small pieces used in fitting must be well bedded in elastic cement, made and for sale for the purpose. On gothic I'oofs, and in fact any roof whei'e the roof makes an angle, great care should be taken to have the slate cut and set to a perfect joint; but as they can never be cut so as to make a perfectly water-tight joint, each course must be flashed under with tin, that is, tin must be bent over the last couise and extend up on sheathing so that the next course will hide it. All valleys (gutters made by angles of roofs) must of course be made of tin, and the slates neatly fitted and set in cement. In slating about chimneys, the tin should pass under the slate and turn up against the bricks; but this is not enough, this tin against the bricks must be cap-flashed, or in othei- words, the mortar must be dug out of bricks j ust above, and tin or sheet lead inserted and turned down, then no leak can occur. For fire-proofing shingle roofs, see Recipes, Vaenishes, and Paints. Tin Roofs and Teimmings. Away from the salt atmosphere of the coast, tin makes a good roof, and w^ill last, if good and well put on, for a long time. Owing to the fact, however, that there are many inferior brands used, these roofs give out prematurely, and in consequence, many condemn the material. The best brands are M. F. Charcoal, I. X., and T. C, ranking in qual- ity in order named ; the last is a thinner tin, not so good, of course, but much used. All portico, veranda, and bay-window roofs, and all sunk gutters on same should be covered with tin. Tin all window caps, turning it up four inches under the clapboard.s. CliJiSTINGS, DOORS AND WINDOWS. 81 The bay-windows require especial care, being so exposed as to n.ako it very difficult to protect tlicni from leaking. The tin must extend up under the clapboards, and around the studding. The conductors, leading water from the roof to the ground, should be made of good material. I. X. tin will answer, but corrugated galvanized iron, we think, is best, as it will expand when water freezes in it, but will not burst. All tin roofs and trimmings should be painted with mineral paint as soon as they are put up. Crestings and Finials. The roofs of many buildings can be much improved in appearance by the use of some one of the many neat designs of ornamental iron crestings, to be supplied by hardware dealeis or manufacturers. Finials of either wood or iron look well upon gables. Staircases, see p. 51. Floors, see p. 45. Portico and veranda floors should be laid of stuff one and one-fourth inches thick, and two and one- half inches wide; the edges should be painted with white lead, and the floor nailed blind, [i. e., in edges of boards, so that the nails will not show). Doors and Windows. All styles of doors and windows are now ready-made and are for sale everywhere, so it is only necessary to specify in the contract with the builder the kind and style wanted, unless special designs are desired. Outside and sliding doors should be one and three-fourths inches thick, and all other doors one and three-eighths inches 6 82 01 K HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. thick. Material must be thoroughly kiln-dried, and free from knots and Bap. Window sash and frames should Ik- fitted snugly; and above all, sash should be hung with cord and pulley where the expense can possibly be borne. Sasli should be from one and three-eighths to one and three-fourths inches thick. If not hung with pulleys, windows should be supplied with convenient locks to hold them at any desired height. The casing and stops about windows should receive great attention, as here is the place that usually admits much cold in winter. Blinds and Shutters. These are very desirable ; but there are difficulties in the way of the ase of inside blinds, as they may interfere with the window drapery. They should be arranged to fold on hinsfes, fourfold being most desirable. The slats should be made horizontal, as they hold in place better when arranged for the admission of light. Outside shutters are usually one and one-fourth inches thick, and should be made of the best material, and hung in the most substantial manner. Like doors, blinds and shut- tens are for sale ready-made, and in contracting, specifica- tion should be made of style wanted. Neat locks or catches should be put on both inside and outside shutters. Inside Finish — Wood-Work. Here is the department wdiere good taste will assert itself. The wood finish of the dift'erent rooms should receive due consideration in the plans and specifications, and definite contract of what is to ha done should be made with builder. INSIDE FINISH. 83 Foi- buildings of medium cost, it will be more satisfac- tory to finish in soft wood, and pine is tlie best. Wlien well smoothed down and varnished, it presents a beautiful contrast with the furnishings; and as it is the cheapest, all can afford it, nor should it be discarded by any because it is cheap. It can be easily cleaned and re-varnished. Main Rooms. These should have molded architraves or casings on doors and windows, of neat design, resting on plinth blocks at the floor. Back plaster under the windows, and cover this with a neat sunk panel, extending to the floor and fin- ished with raised moldings. Base boards should be paneled and finished with a neat design of raised moldings on the top. Exposed or project- ing corners of plastering should be covered with turned beads of pine, extending four feet from base finished with neat turned design on each end. Second-floor chambers finished same as main rooms, with architraves one inch narrower. Kitchen. This room should be wainscoted on all sides three feet high, with matched and beaded sheathing, not to exceed four inches in width, applied vertically, and the top finished with a neat molded cap. The pantry should be finished with one broad shelf, with space beneath for flour bai-rel, which should be closed in its place with a door, and from the broad shelf above cut a S trap of water-closet, and ex- tended at least four feet above the roof, terminating- witli a cap. Smaller ventilating tubes should connect bath and basin trap with this large shaft. Another ventilating shaft, nearly as large as the tirst, should be connected with the space under and around the wattn'-closet, which is supposed to be boxed up, with a cover to shut down on seat, and carried up into attic, and con- nected with kitchen or other flue. We have thus gone into particulai-s so that our readers, not acquainted with such matters, may see how the object desired may be obtained. The expense is not so great as might be supposed, and by leaving out the hot water, as we have said, it may be reduced; a further reduction, saving 88 OUR HOMES AM) THEIR ADORNMENTS. much, might be made by omitting the water-closet, but by all means put it in. Painting. — See House Painting. Glazing. Double thick glass, either French or American, is more durable, and costs less, proportionately, than glass of single thickness. In main rooms, at least, the custom now is to make the glass large, one pane to a sash, and two to a window; all cost considei'cd, it is about as cheap as to put in several panes of smaller and thinner glass, and it is far better in appear- ance. If the doors are to have cut glass panels, and it does not add greatly to the cost to have them, eacli pane must be bedded against putty, that is, putty is first put in around the shoulder against which it rests, and the glass pressed down against it and secured with glazier points, and then fastened with })utty; window-glass should be bedded in the same manner. Hardware. The front door should have a good, brass face, or other style lock and night latch combined and the knobs of the door and door bell and the escutcheon, should be of genuine bronze or other durable material. A door bell adds char- a,cter to a house, and it is always a source of annoyance to occupants and visitors to be compelled to rap, rap, rap, till .some one in the back part of the house hears and attends. A good bell should be at least four inches in diameter, many styles being for .sale by dealers. ,Tlie front or should be luing with three butts, four DOORS AND HANGINGS. 89 and a half inches square, of real bronze or Berlin bronze, and if the door is double, the stationary door, or wing, should be provided with good strong bolts at top and bottom. Sliding inside doors are very convenient, but to act well, must be built in with the walls and must slide on anti- friction rollers, run on brass or other solid track. Knobs are made of a variety of materials ; bronze, por- celain, lava, and turned wood are appropriate and durable. Sash locks are useful, and should be placed on every window; we think the Morris sash lock the best. Cellar and all other doors requiring rough usage, should be swung with wrought-iron butts. Storm Doors. In many parts of the country the use of storm doors is unnecessary, as in the South, but in all of the Northern States they should be put up on houses not provided with vestibule entrances, on the approach of cold weather. They economize fuel by preventing direct cold currents from the entrance door. The storm door can be made by any one who can handle tools ; and when once made, can be taken down and put up each winter by the owner. It should be made in sections, and these should be fastened to facings of main door and to each other with hooks and staples. The storm door itself should be self-closing so that from neglect it may not be left open. Our object in presenting the foregoing Descriptive Speci- fications has been to set forth and explain the details of con- struction, so that any one not employing an architect can make out his specifications in such a way that the builder will leave out nothing. It may also enable those who have 1)0 OUM HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. plans and specifications made out by a builder or architect, to examine the same in connection with those pages and see if the quality of material and character of workmanship are up to the standard, and whether any omissions ha^•e been made. In another part of the work will be found a Form of Contract for building. It has the sanction of good builders, and is pronounced good by a h^gal authority. G.FiJ\.F»"rRR XI. HEATING AND VENTILATION. — OPEN FIRE-PLACES. — GRATES AND FURNACES. — STEAM HEATING. — HOW TO VENTI- LATE. — IMPURE AIR. — nature's DISINFECTANTS. oV»ic HE old fire-place, with its cheery blaze and glow- ing back log, and coals that assume ten thousand fantastic shapes and pictures, all giving out an abundance of heat, cannot be outdone by any inventions of modern pi'ogress, we think, even though more easy methods have been introduced. In a location where wood is abundant, we ad- vise house owners to have a good, large, open fire-place in the main living-room, as we think this the nearest approach to a means of perfect ventilation, the warm flue of the fire-place creat- ing a strong draft from near the floor and carrying out the foul air. Moreover, the influence of the open fire, with leap- ing flames and glowing, crackling coals, draws the family around its magic circle and brings the members a little nearer each other. Grates and Furnaces. The nearest approach to the open fire-place is the grate [91] 02 <>UR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. for burning soft coal, and when arranged with its ash pit as before described in this work, is very easy to keep clean. This method of heating is now very general and answers the purpose quite well. A good mantel and grate may be obtained at from thirty dollars upward. Heating furnaces, burning wood or hard coal, are very much used also. Out of the many patterns made, some are reavsonably good, among which we would recommend the Boynton, the Magee, the Ruby, and the Dome furnaces. All modern styles have a reservoir for holding water, to be evaporated into the hot-air chamber, and thereby moistening the heated ajr antl giving a Avarmth more like steam. With old-style furnaces, the difficulty was that the air was burned or vitiated, and thus rendered unfit to breathe. This ob- stacle is mainly overcome in the modern furnace. The furnace should have a cold-air supply-box or con- ductor leading from the outside, and also a register in the hall with conductor leading to the furnace. This will take the cold air from the rooms when heating begins. The supply conductor from outside should be ample, and should have a cut-off for regulating the supply of cold air. Most furnaces can be used without being covered with brick ; but we advise, as a means of economizing heat, that they be bricked in, first by a single foui'-inch wall, and around this, with an air-space of ten inches between, an eight-inch Avail. This arrangement leaves a space between the furnace and first wall, and the inside of this wall should be covered with plastei-of- Paris, as it is a non-conductor of heat. The pipes conducting the hot air should be of tin or gal- vanizt'il iion. and should be let into the top of hot-air cham- HEATINa WITH STEAM. 93 ber over tlie furnace. The warm conductors leading to the rooms of the first floor, open into a register in the floor, which sliould be bricked in around, four inches from any wood. The conductors to upper stories should be by means of tin flues in the walls, and these should open by register into rooms just above the base board. The smoke pipe should be connected with the highest and largest flue in the house. Steam as a means of heating dwellings is comparatively new and not very generally used yet outside of large cities. In Detroit, and two or three other large cities, there is a section of the city, covering an area of nearly one square mile, successfully supplied with steam, by a Steam Supply Company, from a battery of boilers all located in one build- ing, the steam being carried in pipes laid under the pave- ment. This method has been tested sufiiciently to demonstrate its superiority over all others as a means of heating large buildings with many rooms. The ease with which steam finds its way through pipes to the remotest part of a building, without any sensible loss of heat, gives it a great advantage over furnace heating. The method is healthful, and with the present precautions and use of low pressure boileis, no serious accident can attend its use. The radiator pipes or drums for each room are made in an endless variety of designs, painted, gilded, and varnished ; and while the cost of putting in a boiler and pipes is gi-eater, the saving of fuel and safety from fire will soon repay the additional expense. One hint may be profitably added here, to those who are not accustomed to steam; every radiator must have, of course, a place for the admission of steam, and this is always supplied with a valve to turn ofl' the steam and turn it on 94 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. as occasion requires, and every radiator m itst have a small air exhaust, at the opposite sid(^ or end from the valve. It is sometimes omitted by the workman, but must be put in or the register v^'ill not work. When the steam is turned on, open this air exhaust until the steam drives out all the air, and when the steam is turned off, open exhaust to let air in. Ventilation. The importance of pure air in our dwellings cannot be overestimated ; inventions without number have been made and offered the public, and treatises without end have been written, each of which, if M-e should credit the inventor or author, afforded a perfect and the only possible means of escape from death by foul air. One after another they have been tried, and their adoption has resulted in failure and disappointment m too many cases, and yet many seem to be looking for some patent self-regulating process or device, which, without knowledge, attention, or thought, shall ventilate a dwelling. The expectation must always meet with disappointment, but with our present knowledge, and without waiting for any new facts or inventions, we can apply our connnon sense and thereby devise plans to secure air reasonably pure in our rooms. The principal impurity in the air in our rooms, is carbonic acid which is produced in the act of breathing, hence it is being constantly thrown oft', and if not removed from the room it will soon vitiate all the air within. In a nearly pure state carbonic acid is heavier than air, and where the air is of an even temperature, it will occupy the lower part of the room near the floor, (^wing to the fact, however, that in most c-ases the air is Avarmer in VENTILATION. 95 some parts of the room than in othere, it is not at all improbable that the carbonic acid diffiises itself throughout the room. The problem then is to remove this vitiated air, and Mipply its place with pure air, by not subjecting- the occii- p;ints to cold draughts. To secure this end, ample means of entrance and escape of air must be made. Fig. I. The best means which can be provided, is the open fire or grate for escape, as currents setting up the flue will change the air very quickly if means of entrance are provided l)y an open transom, a window lowered at the top, or other means. Our illustrat'.ou shows an easy, clieap method of wntila- 96 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. tion adapted to any building. Fasten a neat piece of wood from 3 to 5 inches wide inside the bottom sash, fitting it tightly at ends and bottom, and leave it far enough away so that the sash will move up and down with ease, and if there is half an inch between, it will only act the better. When the lower sash is raised, the air rushes into the room between the piece of wood set in and the sash, and also at middle between the two sash, as shown by the arrows pointing upward. It will be seen that the piece set in prevents the air from coming in and striking the occupants as a direct draught, as when the air strikes the board, it deflects it upward. A weather strip could be fastened to the bottom of sash between piece set in, and thus admit air only between the two sash at middle of window. If it is desired to establish an outward current, the top sash may be l(jwered, when the aii' will pass out as indicated by the four arrows. The "revolving ventilator" which is sold at the hard- ware stores, is recommended by many. It is inserted in a circular hole cut in the glass near top of window. Plenty of air should be admitted into the bed-room, — no danger of " colds " when abundance of pure air and clean bed-covers are at hand. Children's rooms should especially be looked after in this respect, as we owe it to them to give abundant supplies of nature's own disinfectants, — pure aii- and water. Rooms that have their doors opened and closed frequently, as in the living-rooms, need but little attention in ventila- tion. In the morning the windows and doors of bed-rooms should be thrown open and allowed to remain so for some time, to permit the pure air to thoroughly search every nook and corner, and drive out impurities. Ghaf^^trr Xlf. SITUATION AND SURROUNDINGS. — SELECTING A HEALTHY SITE. — HOW TO SECURE GOOD DRAINAGE. — PURE WA- TER. — DANGER FROM STAGNANT POOLS. — HOW A HOUSE SHOULD FRONT. — SUNSHINE. — ITS VALUE. — SHADE TREES. oX^c THER tbiugs being equal, high ground is always preferable for a building site; but many things must be taken into consideration in the location. Old water-courses, low, swampy grounds, and dense forests should be avoided, as they are fruitful sources of disease. It is not pleasant to locate near a manufacturing concern, where the din of resounding machinery fills the air Avith discordant sounds, and where clouds of smoke settle down at the most inopportune moments. It is not best in cities to locate where a good sewer is not accessible, for in time the difficulty in drainage will become very annoying. In the country there is not so much difficulty in securing a desirable location. The first consideration .should be good drainage, and the soil and subsoil must be carefully exam- 7 [97] 98 OUIi HOMES AX J) THEIR ADORNMENTS. incd to this eiul. If the soil is gravell}' or porous, ami the subsoil a hard (-lay, impervious to water, the site is not a good one, for the surface water will simply settle down to the clay and remain there, making- the ground damp and uuhoalthful. This niay, however, be remedied to a great extent by putting in tile drains, but it is best to find a good porous oi- gravelly subsoil. Where a good system of sewerage is maintained, the drainage is of no consequence, as it is easy to secure almost perfect immunity from damp premises. The next consideration is a good and ample supply of drinking water, and water for all domestic purposes ; this is of vital importance. It is far better to be at some expense in bringing it from a distant spring or a running stream by means of pipes, than to run any risk by the use of contam- inated water. Many fine sites, in other respects very desirable, are not deenujd practical by reason of their loca- tion on high ground away from water, but this difficult}' can usually be overcome if there is water within a reason- able distance in a valley below, by means of a Hydraulic Ram. A well should not be located near any building unless there is a perfect system of drainage for carrying off the surface water; neither is it safe to locate a well too near a drain, as the incline of the surface or strata of subsoil may allow the sewage to filter through into the well and con- taminate the water. In many parts of the country, where the lower strata is giavel, and \\ here the water is only a few feet down, drive wells are put in b}' driving ir.to the earth an iron pipe one and a half inches in diameter, upon the end of which is DRAINAGE AND EXPOSURE. 99 firmly screwed a sharp, steel-pointed head, the pipe for a few inches above the steel-pointed head having small holes for the admission of water. Water from this kind of wells is usually pure, and no water from the surface can get in to contaminate. Any system of drainage depends largely upon a good supply of water for its effectiveness, and with- out o;ood drainage the best location will soon become unhealthy. A quick-running stream, if not subject to annoying or dangerous ovei-flows, is to be desired as an adjunct to a good site, as it can be made the means of carrying off accumula- tions of filth; but a sluggish stream, or standing water, should be avoided, as danger lurks on their banks ; nor are pools that are made for ornament to be trusted. Lakes, if fed by rivulets or unseen springs at the bottom, so that the water will not stagnate, may be most delightful and reasonably healthful as adjuncts to building sites. Exposure of a House. The exposure of a house, or the direction it fronts, and the relative location of its principal rooms, has much to do with the comfort of its inmates. The greatest consideration is the admission of sunshine into every room, if possible, sometime during the day. In cities and towns where the streets run with the cardinal points of the compass, a northwest corner, the house fronting south, is the best location, next to which the west side of a street is preferable, as the principal rooms may then be located on the east and south exposures; and if some room must be located so that sunlig-ht cannot enter, let it be the dinnino^- room, for while we want it as pleasant as possible, we live 100 OUn HOMEH AXD THEIR ADORNMENTS. m it less tinic than an}' otlier. The kitchen also may be located on the cold side, as may the staircase and hall. If the house should stand on the west side of street,^ on an inside lot, the principal rooms should be on the south side, if the house is on the east side, the exposure of the principal rooms should be on the south and west, and for sunshine this is really a better location than the foregoing, but it has the disadvantage of being exposed to the intense h(^at of the afternoon sun, which can in a measure be over- come by shade-trees placed not too close to the house. If the house is built on the north side of the street, the house fronts south of course, and the principal rooms should open to the east, allowing the morning sun to pour its full rays into the rooms, just at the time of day when sunshine is enjoyable; and as the day passes the sun will sweep around and give the whole front and west side a bath, leav- ing the east rooms cool and shady in the afternoon. There are some disadvantages in locating a residence on the south side of a street, for the winds of winter have full play upon the parts where the principal rooms must be located ; and yet this can be overcome by the use of double windows, and by building a vestibule entrance, or a storm door. While such houses may possibly be colder in winter they are more pleasant in summer. All hoiises should have verandas on the sides exposed U> the sun, if possible, and sleeping rooms so exposed, may be rendered cooler by keeping out the hot rays by means of awnings. In the country, no obstacles are usually in the way io securing the best possible location for sunlight. The best frontings ai-e either south or east, and if the LOCATING AND BEAUTIFYING. 101 housne should be set in some other way than with the cardinal points, there is no law by which the owner can be compelled to turn it around. The rooms must be so located as to secure the sunlioht to the best advantage, the style of the building and location of trees having, of course, much to do in determining what is best to do. There is nothing, perhaps, that enhances the beauty of houses more than trees and shrubbery when there is room for . them. Trees should not stand too near houses, nor .should their branches ever overhang, as they not only damage the work and mar the beauty of outline, but they also cause a dampness to settle around and into the house, rendering it unhealthful. We think much of shade-trees, but would keep them at a respectful distance from the house; near enough to break the force of winter's winds, and shelter from summer's sun. (3^pj^jp^j^j^ XIII. THE PRIMITIVE HOUSE. — OUR NOBLE ANCESTORS. — MODERN RESIDENCES. — HOW TO BUILD A HOUSE AND MAKE AD- DITIONS TO IT. — A SIMPLE COTTAGE. oiOAte — o Fig- 3- to waste material upon something that will be nearly useless then." It is to help this class of builders that our designs are intended. Fig. 3 represents a simple cottage of only one room, which can be erected at a very trifling expense, even on the prairies where lumber is high and scarce, and must be hauled a long distance. It is 12x14 feet, and 7 feet between joists , it will take material as follows: 800 feet of 106 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORXMEXTS. inch boards @. $30 per thousand, S24; 4 sills, GxO, and 4 beams, 6x6, 10 rafters, and 12 joists, $6; 2 panel doors @$2.50 each, and 3 windows @ $1.50 each, $9.50; nails and paper for roofing, $10. Total, $49.50. Here is a cost of about fifty dollars; and any man of ordinary ingenuity can do all the woi-k himself, with the aid of a carpenter to case the windows, and case and hang the doors. Let him first frame the sills and lay them upon the foundation in proper position ; next frame the beams and Fig- 4- lay them upon the sills; then securely nail two boards perpendicularly at each corner of the sills. Use sixteen-foot boards, cut in the middle; this will make the buihling seven feet in the clear. Now cut four stanchions seven feet long; and with the aid of one person you can raise the beams one end at a time, slip under the stanchions, and nail the tops of the boards that had been previously nailed to the sills, securely to the beams, and you ADDITION TO PRAIRIE HOUSE. 10/ are ready to proceed with the planking, which any one can do who can saw off a board and drive a nail. For roofing, use saturated tar paper, which is manu- factured expressly for it, and is for sale in all Western towns. The cost is about one-fourth that of shingles; it is not as good, but will last several years, when you can lay youi- shingles right over it. If you build in the spring or early summer, you can omit the clapboards until the fall; l>ut don't omit the veranda. We are like an architectural gentleman who once went into ecstacies over blinds. We have nothing rebutting to show ; it is a blind subject; but we think the crowning glory of any house, large or small, is a veranda, or as the girl called it, "our folks's stoop." So much for Fig. 8. Now we will suppose our humble farmer, at the end of one or two years, has acquired means to enlarge his humble 108 UUR HOMES AND THETR ADORNMENTS. domicile. This he can do, as shown in plan, Fig. 5, which consists of his first erection with a lean-to of one bed-room, a pantry, and a wood-shed. This can be erected upon the same principle as the first. The reason we recommended planking and clapboards in preference to studs and clap- boarding, is that any one can build with planks; but it will require a professional carpenter to build a studded house. Fig. 5 will make a very convenient house for a small family. The inside can be finished with paper or plaster, to ^ 1 Fig. 6. suit the taste of the occupants. Again we will suppose that "the lapse of years has brought round the time " when our friend wishes to again enlarge his house. If he has followed our former plans, he will do so, as shown in Fig.s. G and 7. This consists of an upright part added to his former erections. He now, of course, has means sufficient at his command, and will call in the aid of a practical architect. He can build this last part two stories high if he wishes, but we would advi.se a low house in a ADDITION TO PRAIRIE HOUSE. 109 prairie country. We think this will make a very convenient house, not devoid of beauty. Plan, Fig. 3, is a room 12x14; V, veranda. Plan, Fig. 5, K, living room, 12x14; B, bed-room, 8x9: P, pantry, 8x8; W, S, wood-shed; V, veranda. i 10 OCR HOMES AND THEUl ADORNMENTS. Plan, Fig. 6, L, living-room, 12x13; K, kitchen, 12 xl4; D, dining-room, 9^>xl2; B, B, B, l)ed-rooms, 9x8, and 8x(S; S, P, summer pantry, 8x8; P, pantry, 8x8; W, wood-shed; V, V, veranda. The summer pantry can be u.scd in winter for a place to keep meat, and as a store-room. Being away from the kitclien fii-e, it will keep meat fresh a long time in suitable weather. The cost of the last design (the third addition) will not exceed $1,500, and could probably be built for less if one would do as much of the work as possible himself. CxMJ^Pa^RR XI"^. AX ATTRACTIVE COTTAGE HOME FOR PEOPLE WITH SMALL MEANS. — HOW CONSTRUCTED. — THE COST. — HOW TO PAINT IT. ^DESIGN 11.-^ E give in Figs. 8 and 9 illustrations of the airangement of the rooms on first floor, and perspective view of front and principal side of an attractive little cottage, neat and well pro- portioned, simple in design, and easy of con- struction, there being but little ornamental work used, as shown in the elevation. A course of sawed panels across the front, set in squai-e frame-work, and the projection of the second story over bay, with its two large brackets on either side, give a fine outline to the front, with the relief of cut slat patterns under projection and over the windows in front gable ; and this, together with the simple cut figures in the entrance porch, is all the real ornamental work on the house- The fact is that the exterior effect in the cottage depends more upon the outlines of corners, projections, and angles of roof, than upon anything else, and is an example of what can be done without much ornamen- [111] 112 OUR HOMES A^D THEIR ADORNMENTS- tation and still claim merit from its attractiveness. The roof should be shingled and painted a dark red, while the body of the house should be painted an olive green, and the trimmings, that is, cornices, corners, porch anJ«o S the warm season approaches, many persons, es- pecially those in cities, are anxious to retire to some spot where they may escape the heat. Many go to the fashionable watering places, some to private boarding houses in the country, and not a few camp out by some lake or stream. Generally such persons are able to bear the expense, and have a summer-house on a lot owned or controlled by themselves, located near some lake, bay, or stream, easy of access to the outside world, but far enough away to escape its To such we offer a few suggestions. We will suppose that a summer cottage for a family of four is to be constructed. We must have two rooms on the first floor, and the same number above for sleeping apart- ments. The plan and dimensions will be as follows: The house will be 13x25 ft., making the front room 12x12 ft., [143] anxieties. 144 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. the back room, 10x12 ft. for dining-room, with a staircase between, 2| ft. wide, the space under staircase being used for a pantry. The same ai-rangement of rooms on second floor will answer. The roof can be extended out four feet over the front, and a veranda constructed for first floor, the roof of which will serve as a balcony to front sleeping- apartment. In the rear of house, we would construct a cook-room, or kitchen, with shelves in corners, 10x10, with a shed roof attached to main building. We now have the plan of the house, let us consider kind, quality, and cost of materials. The structure will require thirteen foundation posts, 7 in. in diameter and not less than 5 ft. long; set four posts on the long sides, one in the center of each end, and three for the kitchen, costing not over $2.60. Lumber for the building will be required as follows: 2 sills, 6x6 in., 25 ft. long; 3 sills, same size, 13 ft. long; 38 studding, 2x4 in., 14 ft. long; 14 studding, same size, 13 ft. long, for plates; 22, studdinsf 12 ft. lonof, for kitchen walls and rafters; 34« pieces, 10 ft. long, for rafters and gable ends; 22 pieces, 2x8 in., joists for first floor, same number, 2x6 in., for sec- ond floor, all 13 ft. long; 6 pieces, 4x4 in., 9 ft. long, for veranda posts; and 7 pieces, 2x8 in., 10 ft. long, for floor joists of cook-room. This includes all the framing lumber required in the frame-work, and is not more than two tliousand feet board measure, which would cost $15.00 per thousand, or $30.00 The covering boards for the outside walls should be of a good smooth quality of what is usually termed " bam l)oards," planed on both sides and applied vertically, and tlie joints covered with two-inch battens; 1300 ft. will be PLAN OF SUMMER COTTAGE. I45 rcH[uiro(l at a cost of $20.00. 700 ft. of roofing boards, planed on one side, sound but not necessarily free from knots, will cost $9.00. 5000 shingles for main roof and kitchen, at $4.00 per thousand, $20.00. The flooring, of pine or .spruce, matched and laid in the ordinary AA^ay, 800 ft., at a cost of $17.00. For the main cornice use a simple 12-inch projection on i-afters, with a verge-board cut in a neat pattern for eaves and gables ; the rafters being planed no planchei- will be nec- essary. The veranda is made by extending columns up to the roof with a railing of simple pattern around the upper floor or balcony. There should be at least two windows in front room, and the same number in the rear rooms, all of common, plain frames, with two-light sash, 24x36 inches. One door opens to each front room, one to veranda and balcony, one between two upper rooms, and one to kitchen, no door being neces- sary between the two main rooms below. Partitions between rooms of main floors are of plain matched material, and the staircase a box stairs, forming a pantry underneath. The foregoing includes in a general way the principal things needed for the cottage, and below are the figures giving approximate cost of material and erection: — Framing material, $32.00 Covering boards 20.00 Roofing boards, 9.00 Shingles, 20.00 Flooring, 17.00 Battens, 6.00 Moldings, verge-boards, etc., 15.00 Windows all complete, 20.00 10 146 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Doors all complete $12.00 Staircase and extra lumber, 0.00 Paintinj]: — two coats, 20.00 Labor of putting up the building, 50.00 Contingent expenses, 10.00 The whole cost need not exceed S240.00, and in many localities it will come within $200.00. Hundreds of people can possess such a building for sum- mer use, to which they may retire and spend the " heated term " in the most pleasant manner. Certainly the expense is not so great as to deter people in comfortable circum- stances, besides the same amount would be spent in two summers, in boarding and other expenses, with far less real comfort. How TO Construct a Rustic House. Where there is anything like spacious grounds around a house, that can be used for a lawn, nothing adds more to the attractiveness of the out-door scenery than a co.sey, rustic retreat, covered Avith climbing vines, whose leafy foliage forms a most inviting welcome to whoever may seek shelter from the scorching rays of the summer sun, and I'ost upon the rude seats within. A rustic summer-house is quite simple to build, and a great variety of forms can easily b(> made if the material can be readily obtained. Cedar is the best and can be found in most localities; but spruce will ilo very well where cedar cannot be obtained. If one lives in the country, and the material is to be cut in the woods, it should be selected, for the most part, from small trees or saplings as near of a size as possible. But a A'ariety of sizes will be needed in trimming up, so that in cutting we may take some of both larger and A RUSTIC SUMMER HOUSE. 147 smaller sizes. Trim off roughly, that is, cut the small limbs not close to the body of the tree. Now, for illustration, we will build a small arbor, say 8 ft. wide and 12 ft. long. Of course, in selecting our material we must know first what we are to build, and select certain parts for certain places. For the arbor we are considering, we must have six posts about 5 in. in diameter, one for each corner, and one in the middle of each side. These make our main supports for the superstructure. From the top of these carry across the eight-foot way stout poles and secure them in place; now on the top of the ends of the.se pieces we will extend pieces the reverse of the former and over the posts, thus making, as it were, the plates, which should extend over two feet at each end, the center pole extending parallel with pieces last mentioned, and of the same length; this center piece must be raised to the height of two feet above the others, and will rest on an upright piece set down upon the cross-pieces before mentioned. We now have the outline of our structure. The roof should be covered with poles two inches apart, extending over the eaves 2 ft. and joining in the center of the roof. The plates should be 9 ft. from the ground, and parallel with them, down 16 in. below, all around, place other sticks, and under the corners place braces. Between the pieces parallel with the plate, cut in cross-pieces close together, all around, and fill in the gables of the roof, pieces cut in any form that the taste may suggest. The sides and ends, except a three-foot opening in center of each end, must have a rail all around, three feet high, cut in between the main posts; also a piece around in the same manner near the ground; then fill in this space under the I'ails in any form that may be desired, and on each of the two sides make a seat of the smaller poles. 148 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. This completes our description of one simple form of making a rustic summer-house. Very little skill is required, nor many tools; a saw, hammer, and sharp hatchet are the main ones that will be required, with plenty of tenpenny nails for securing the work. Of course a little good taste in arranging the forms of roof- and trimming the same, may add much to its symmetry. Some of the many kinds of climbing vines should be planted and trained to spread their foliage over th(} roof, and we have the arbor complete. We have seen a very pretty rustic seat made by setting in the ground one large post and then from this building out like the bows of an umbrella for the roof, with seats all around the foot of the post. This makes a rather unique but attractive appearance. A great variety of rustic .seats can be made to place around under trees and in shady woods, that will harmonize with the works of nature much better than anything made from manufactured material, and which will not cost as much. (!xMJ^F»a"KK XXI. ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. — OLD HOUSES MADE NEW. — CAUTION. — IMPROVING ROOFS AND GABLES. — REMODEL- ING WINDOWS. oXKc HEN any alterations or additions are contem- plated, they should receive the most careful consideration before the plans are put into ex- ecution; indeed, in many cases more study and good judgment are often required to success- fully carry out alterations so that the new work will harmonize with the old, than to plan a new building of equal magnitude. It not unfrequently happens that additions are made in such a way that they look mis- placed, and add nothing to the appearance of the building. Nor is this all; it should be more definitely known how much is to be done, and how much it is to cost, than is usually the case. Frequently the matter is simply talked over, and a carpenter set to work by the day to tear down and build up without any definite regard as to when or where to stop, one thing after another calling for further alteration until the cost may exceed that of a new house. (149) 150 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. This is the experience of many, and should be carefully avoided by those whose means are limited, and whose tastes are sensitive; for cost what the additions may, there are always left reminders of the old house. Our advice, where extensive alterations are needed, is to tear down the old house, and utilize the material as far as possible in a new one. The services of an architect cannot be employed to better pecuniary advantage to the owner than in giving advice and making plans for alterations and additions ; in fact, his services are almost, if not quite, indispensable in such work. Additions. In chapter XTII of this work will be found some practical illustrations of how additions can be made. If the house as originally built contemplated additions, little trouble will be experienced in the work, especially if the additions are in front and conceal the part first erected. The plan tlicn would be very much like a new house with fewer rooms. Bay-Windows. Bay-windows can usually be added to a house with good effect and an increase of comfort to the inmates. The wall should be cut out the height and breadth de- sired, and the bay-window built out from the house. It is best to arch over the entrance to bay, as this separates the old ceiling from the new and counteracts the effect of con- trast of old and new work. If porticoes, verandas, cornice, verge-boards, or brackets are to be added, great care must be used to make the out- ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 151 lines of old and new work blend, as it frequently happens that such additions present anything but a harmonious appearance. It is frequently desired to increase the number of rooms by building wings or rear additions; but unless a new front is added, the new must always be kept subordinate to the old. Fig 28. If additions are to be made to brick buiklings, the new wall must be joined to the old by cutting a vertical groove in the old wall four inches deep, and broad enough to receive the brick of the new wall, as when the courses of the new wall are locked into the old, brick for brick, thei-e will in- variably be settlement enough in the new to break every brick at the point of intersection ; hence the reason for con- necting by a groove which admits of settling without breaking. The joints of courses in new work should be laid a little above the old to allow for settling. 152 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. New Roofs, Gables, etc. If roofs need relaying, where the building is good, slate roofs may be put on over the old shingles to good advantage, using longer nails than usual to secure the slate. If the building is old-fashioned, a marked improvement can be made by taking off the roof and giving it greater pitch, luntiing u]> tlic chimneys and giving them a grace- Fig. 29. ful tinish, and putting in a front gable v.ith neat tracery and brackets. This plan can be carried out when a new roof becomes necessary, and its effect upon the general appearance of the building will be excellent, and if ii'on cresting is put on, so much the better. ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 153 Improving Windows. The appearance of many good, substantial houses, espe- cially in the country, is positively ruined by the low, square, unsightly, small-light windows. This can be remedied at a very light expense by tearing out the frames, cutting out from the top to the desired height for modern windows, and replacing the old many-light sash with new ones holding not more than four lights. The same treatment would improve many door- ways. 154 OUR BOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. The alterations that will be necessary depend largely upon the construction and surroundings, and further sug- gestions would be sujjerfluous. The author, however, wishes to again caution all who would remodel houses against the too frequent result in which the same amount expended would have secured a good, comfortable, new house. In the accompanying cuts are represented two very attractive designs of windows; one has a neat canopy top with curved roof and verge-board supported on brackets on each side and forming a fine outline ; while at the bottom of the window is a small balcony projecting out from below the sill, with a railing round it, and this too resting on brackets. The whole combined makes a pleasing appearance. ALTERATIONS AND ADDITIONS. 155 The other cut, Fig. 32, has no canopy, but instead, a cap restinof on brackets, while the casing's on each side run down to the sill, forming a graceful outline. This also has a balcony similar to the other. The window first described. Fig. 31, could be used with good effect in the gablt^s of many wood houses, in the second stoiy ; the other one is better adapted to a full second story where the top must come under a cornice, as it does not extend up so far. Fig. 32. A great variety of forms can be given in the treatment of windows; and in fact, aside from the main outline of the structure itself, nothing has more to do with the general efiect of the outside than the treatment of the windows. Where verandas come over windows, it is sometimes desirable to have swing sash, usually know as French win- dows, opening out from the rooms. These are very pleasant 156 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. in summer, but must be protected in winter by storm win- dows, as the swinging of the sash gives greater opportunity for cold to come in. Through the winter it is often economy to protect, with a double sash, windows that are exposed to the cold winds. This sash is made all in one piece, and fits ovxr the outside casing, with a strip of narrow felt between this and the sash, and secured with long screws, the felt effectually keep- ins: out the wind. ClFIi^Fa^RK. XXII, OUTHOUSES. — SOME PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS, — HOW TO HAVE ICE ALL THE SUMMER. — AN ICE-HOUSE PRESERV- ATORY. — PLAN FOR A CHEAP BUT EXCELLENT FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. oJ«4c T frequently happens that the outhouses of a farm, such as the ice-house, hennery, etc., re- ceive but Httle attention. Some farmers utterly neglect walks or step- ping-stones to the barns and other buildings, and content themselves to tramp through mud and snow, when a few hours' w^ork would build a substantial walk from the odds and ends left in erecting the barn. Such conveniences really cost but a trifle compared with the benefit de- rived from them. IcE-HousE. An ice-house properly made will last a long time with but little attention; and in the country where ice is not supplied, there is no reason why the milk-house, meat pre- servatory, and ice-house should not be combined in one, especially where a running stream is not near at hand. [157] 158 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Ice can be preserved in simple, double-walled houses, with the space between filled with sawdust, and the ice packed in closely and covered well with sawdust. The Fig- 33- accompanying engraving and description will, however, irive a better idea of how to combine the ice-house and preservatory. The novel feature of this ])lan is the placing of the pre- servatory uiidri' the mass of ice, from which it is separated liy the floor made of plates and galvanized iron. It is thus FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. 159 already filled with cold air of about the temperature of 34° or 8(3^. The temperature is couiiuunicated to the preserva- tory by the ice acting tlirough the thin floor of iron plates. Fresh air may be introduced from the sides when desirable, and ventilation is secured in the direction indicated by the arrows, between the outer and inner walls. The iron floor slopes to the center, wdiere the drainage is completed by a pipe. The outer w^all is made of stone or brick, next comes an air-space eight mches wide, then a wall of boards filled in with sawdust. The current of warm air from below passes lip the air-space, through holes into the chamber above the ice, and out at the roof. The rafters are double-boarded and sawdust placed between them and a four-inch air-space left l)ctween them and the roof ; this secures brisk circula- tion of air. If the ice-house is to be connected with the dwelling, the preservatory may be entered from the cellar by breaking a dooi'-way through the wall ; if apart from the house, unless a side hill be available, some steps downward will be necessary. The ice-house should be wholly above ground, but the preservatory partly or entirely under, as shown by the grade lines on side of cut. Farm and Carriage Barn. There are many farmers owning farms of from fifty to eighty acres, wdio often feel the need of a carriage barn, yet do not feel able to build one in addition to their other farm buildings. To such it is believed this design of a farm and carriage barn combined wnll be acceptable. The size of the main barn is 30x60 ft., comer posts 15 IGO OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. ft. high ; the linter or back part containing the stables and store-room is 15x68 ft., with corner posts 9 ft. high. The shed containing the pig-pen and hen-house is 8x32 ft., and m 8 ft. hifdi. The grain and water buckets in the horse stables are filled through sliding doors opening from the feed-room. The hay-racks should be of hard wood or iron, and filled FARM AND CARRIAGE BARN. IGl fioni tlie mow over the carriage room. The granary has capacity for three hundred bushels of grain, and the whole bam storage room sufficient for a farm of sixty acres. «Q The following is the descriptive reference to the cut: A, threshing and entrance flooi-, 10x30 ft.; B, carriage and 11 1G2 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. wagon room, 22x24 ft. ; C, mow, 18x22 ft. ; D, horse stables, 15x22 ft.; E, feed-room, 7x12 ft.; F, stairs, with pump (•) imder them; G, harness closets; H, H, H, hay racks in horse stables; I, I, I, I, grain and water buckets; T, store- room, 15x21 ft. ; K, tool-closet; L, work-bench ; M, passage- way, 4x80 ft.; N, granary, 8x22 ft; O, cow stables, 15x20 ft. ; P, P, P, P, mangers ; E, pig-pen ; S, sleeping-room ; F, feed-trough; U, hennery; V, feed-box; W, perches for hennery. LANDSCAPE GARDENING. GENERAL RULES AND OBSERVATIONS APPLICABLE TO THE IMPROVEMENT OF SMALL LOTS FROM ONE-SIXTEENTH TO ONE-HALF ACRE IN AREA. — ERRORS OF COMMON OC- CURRENCE. — STYLE OF GARDENING. — EXPOSURE AND LOCATION. — GRADING AND TERRACING. <»»Co EFORE entering upon details as to the best methods of improvement, and as a fruitful source of awakening attention to the subject, it has seemed best to enumerate some of the more no- ticeable faults, most of which may be seen upon any street of half a mile in length in any but the most wealthy portions of our cities and vil- lages, in the hope that the reader may the better analyze his premises, if already improved, or guard asfainst these defects when about to make Chief among for himself a home in the future, these faults may be named the following — Errors to Be Avoided. ] . Houses too near the street. 2 Too many trees inside the yard. [163] 164 OUJt HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 3. Too much shade about the house. 4. The use of improper trees, considcrmg the style of architecture employed, as well as the use Of such trees as have the disagreeable habit of suckering, or sending up sprouts, or that produce unsightly blossoms, or food for "horrid worms," as ladies say. 5. The use of improper colors upon fences and build- ings, — colors that do not harmonize with each other, nor with the things that nature furnishes in that locality. 6. The want of care necessary to keep a place tidy and neat. 7. The destruction of lawns by the use of too many and too great a variety of things in small places. 8 The use of too many styles of fence upon the same block, out of proportion as to parts, some having too small posts,, some being too low, others too high, together with numberless other defects, which we shall mention in connec- tion with each subject of which we shall speak hereafter. How TO Begin. But lest the want of space forbids our going suffi- ciently into details upon all these topics, it may not be amiss to remind the reader that imitation is one of the most fruit- ful sources of advancement. Look about you, and when you see a thing that looks pleasing and tasty and suited to your means, strive to copy it. Take notes and measure- ments in detail, for it is the minute features that produce the perfect whole. Do not allow yourself to guess at the size of a fence post or the height of the fence, the width of a walk, or the distance trees are planted apart, etc., etc., unless you know your taste is good in regard to such matters. IMPROVING SMALL LOTS. 165 Many a man can appreciate good music, still he may not be able to utter a musical sound ; and so in the adornment of homes, most can admire, but few can create them independ- ently, and hence must be governed by rules or samples. Or, better still, if you are able, get some person skilled in such things to furnish a plan, or at least give some sug- gestions that you may profit by when improvements are commenced. Things to Be Attained. The improvement of city or village lots that do not ex- ceed a half -acre in extent is quite a simple, easy matter if you have carefully noted all the errors spoken of in the preceding pages, so that you are sure not to commit any of them, in which case, the work is already half done. Simplicity and Neatness Are the two main things to be sought in these little places, and since they can only be considered as one part or feature of larger places, no attempt to embody everything that could be attained upon a lot containing five or more acres will ever give pleasure or satisfaction within the limits of a small lot. The best that can be done is to secure one fine piece of lawn ; a few choice flowers, not attempting to raise all that are named in the floral catalogues; and a few very fine, small growing trees and shrubs, in place of those of larger growth that are suitable for extensive lawns, together with only such walks as are necessarily traveled in going to and from the house to the approach, out-buildings, or flower garden, if one is kept at all; this last being of doubtful { propriety within such narrow limits. Hence, use only small ornaments for small yards, and thus form a picture perfect 166 OUR HOMEH AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. in all its parts, but taken in miniature. But at present we will consider some things that more properly come first. Style of Gardening Used. In general, only the "formal " or "geometric " style can be applied within narrow limits. There is no room to make curved walks and flowing outlines, rockeries, cascades, lakes, and other things that belong to the natural style. A mixed style might properly be adopted upon a good-sized lot, pro- viding care is taken in locatinjj the house and out-buildino-s, having a side entrance to the former, and having the latter so placed in the rear that a curved walk could be started from the proper place for an entrance to the yard, passing the door of the house, thence on toward the places that it be- comes necessary to visit about every home. No abrupt turns would be admis-sible, for nothing of the " picturesque " can ever be tolerated here, not even rough i-ustic chairs and things of like nature. On account of their nearness to the dwelling, all architectural ornaments or manufactured arti- cles should conform to, and be in harmony with, the style of the house, which is the leading feature in these small lots. It may be laid down as a general rule that things brought into close contact should either produce harmony of design by happy contrasts, the one being a natural and the other an artificial object, or else be of similar nature and the same style. Do not use gothic vasas and other architectural orna- ments in connection with a house in Grecian or Roman style. The Exposure or Location. Of course we do not expect all can obtain the most de- sirable places, and many of the readers have already pur- THE EXPOSURE OR LOCATION. 167 chased and perhaps built ; but it is proper to speak of these featui'es, and then each can apply them so far as his purse or premises will allow. First, then, in cities or villages where the streets are sure to be graded sooner or later, a medium elevation should be selected, being most likely to conform best to the level of the grade of the street when established. Of all locations, a southeast corner lot in the block is the most desirable, con- sidering the means of access to barns, out-buildings, etc., and the bringing in contact of the most protected, or least in- clement sides of the house for an entrance, and the most easily sheltered portions of the grounds for a lawn or ornamental purposes. Next to this would be the corner opposite on the south, being the northeast, which does very well by placing the house near the road on the north, and having a bay-window or veranda opening toward the south f.de, where the lawn should be, as before. Next to these two, we would choose an inside lot on the west side of the north and south road, or the north side of the east and west road. But should you be so unfortunate as to get the less desirable locations, it might justify more planting for shelter in front, and perhaps pvire white houses with green blinds, together Avith a location less distant from the street than we shall recommend in our directions upon that subject, mak- ing the ornamental part of the yard partly to the warm side, oi even behmd the house if desired. Of course, good neighborhoods, good views, nearness to churches, schools, and places of business, although not strictly belonging to the subject of ornamental gardening, should always be considered, as also good water, means of drainage, distance from noisy, smoky, or unhealthful man- ufacturing establishments, or cess-pools, etc. Get started 1(58 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. light if possible, and then half the work is saved; verifying the adage, " Well begun is half done." ' The Style of House to be Built, Although not properly belonging to this subject, needs great care in its selection. Nothing in ornamental gardening can ever atone for a poorly designed house. So, if po.ssible, consult your architect and gardener together; and if you can afford neither, you had better borrow such features as you find in works upon architecture, like the one in hand, using them as your pattern and guide rather than trust you I own poor .taste, if such only you possess. The Distance of the House from the Road. This depencLs much upon the style or size of the house, and more upon the shape of the lot, which should properly be twice as long as wide. It is also quite important to con- sidei the views to be obtained or obstructed by surround- ings. In general, all the houses in a block should front on the same line, and the center of tlu; house should be placed back from the street one-fourth or one-third the length of the lot, the distance being increased with the increased width of the lot, providing the lengths are the same, as is usually the case in cities and villages. Upon a lot ten rods long, this brings a house that is thirty-three feet, long, from twenty -five to thirty -five feet from the road, the shorter dis- tance being about the least admissible in .such sized lots, espe- cially if all owners on the block can agree. And between these distances, the economic use to which you might desire to ])ut your back vard, or the oriiain(>ntal use to which you IMPROVEMENTS. 169 might wish to devote your front yard, must determine each cavse. Then, too, if your lot is very high above the grade, pru- dence would dictate not to use the less distance, but rather to increase the greater distance, thus giving less pitch per rod from the house to sidewalk. The pitch should in no case exceed one foot to the rod, not more than half this being desirable; and even then the surface should be a little full near the center, giving it a slight convexity, which in- creases the apparent breadth of lawn. Means of Improvement. The first thing to be done upon a new place is to secure perfect drainage for cellar and surplus waters, and the next is to mark out your necessary Roads and Walks; But as we have occasion to speak of these more fully under the head of large places, the details being the same in both, we will proceed to the Grading and Terracing. In case the pitch is too great from the house to the street, or in other places upon the premises, it will be neces- sary to terrace; and when this is done, let it seem to be a part of the house, being parallel with it, and supporting the same at every turn when near to it, or parallel with the fence when near to the road. Let the banks be smoothly cut, and neatly sodded with the finest June or blue grass sod that can be procured from some adjoining road- 170 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. side or pasture, not coarse timothy, clover, or dandelion sod. The same kind should be used in strips about eiglit inches wide for marking the borders of drives and walks, and be well pounded down with the back of the spade, and kept well watered during dry weather. Give the face of the ter - race sufficient slant to keep it from falling down, and a concave rather than a convex face, which last does not look nor stand well. It would hardly seem proper to resort to terraces unless there is an incline above a foot to the rod in distance. As regards the grading of the general surface, it is often advisable to plant the ground to some spring hoeing crop, — potatoes are best, — thus giving the old sod time to and which must be passed by in this brief treatise, referring you again to more exhaustive works on landscape gardening. Of this subject something has already been said in con- nection with other subjects; and since no small limits can do it justice, it may be as well to omit it as a separate topic, and glance at it in connection with the subjects treated of in the few remaining pages. A very good means of in- creasing the breadth of lawn in small lots is to have no boundary fence between neighboring lots, especially along the front half of the lots. In this case, no little care should be exercised in the planting of trees between the two dwell- ings, by the judicious disposition of which we may shut out the view of our neighbor's house from the best win- dows and other points of view, and thus appear to own a larger place than we really do. Even the entrances to two adjoining places may be combined in one so far as the starting point is concerned, with a saving of space, and no loss in effect. In case these methods are put in practice, it may be best to erect a high fence along the back half of the line, and then run a line of hedge or a grape arbor at right angles to this on the front end, reaching nearly from one house to the other, and separating the front views from the kitchen and other unsightly offices necessary to every house- hold. Of this, we shall speak again under the subject of fences. DRIVES AND WALKS. 181 A few words on the general location of plants : Except in strictly formal grounds, do not plant trees at regular distances along the walks, borders, etc., nor attempt to make one side exactly correspond to its counterpart. Neither go to the other extreme and scatter them indiscrim- inately over the premises, thus breaking up all the breadth of lawn and shutting out all desirable views. Give heed to the development of these last tw^o features, which may be promoted by properly grouping trees of harmonious forms and shades, also by planting most thickly along the margins of the premises, especially on the sides where shelter is needed from cold winds, and in the turns of the walks and drives, as spoken of elsewhere. Leave open vistas from the best points of view to fine objects in the distance, or on the premises, and many a happy hour will take the place of idle melancholy. Cm^F^TElR ^-^W-v TREE PLANTING. — THE BEST TIME TO PLANT. — HOW TO PLANT. — REMOVING AND PLANTING LARGE TREES. — HOW TO SELECT. — A GOOD LIST. — CARE OF TREES AND SUC- CESS IN THEIR CULTURE. — FENCES. — KINDS AND THEIR STYLE. — HOW TO MAKE THEM ORNAMENTAL. oXKc gardeners I REE PLANTING.— All American agree, we think, in placing November and De- cember (if open) at the head of all other months for the planting of deciduous ornamental trees. To be sure, small trees and shrubs will do well planted in the spring, especially if the season proves not too dry, and proper care is taken to mulch the ground, and thus pi-event the di- rect rays of the sun from absorbing the moisture immediately about the roots. The conditions necessary to be observed may be noted in the following order: 1. Never remove a tree from a good soil and place it in a poorer one; and in order to prevent this, the hole in which the tree is to be set, must be dug much larger than the tree, and then the extra space, up to a proper depth, filled with rich soil, or with 11821 TREE PLANTING. 183 manure mixed with the lower and most distant parts of the soil in the hole. 2. Do not put the manure in con- tact with the roots, nor set your tree too deep, for these two errors have caused more failures than all others. The deeper and wider you make the holes the better, even to four feet deep, and that much wider than the roots, filling the extra space with rich dirt, well packed down, in order to prevent the tree from settling when the rains come. In transplanting large trees, above three inches in diam- eter, a preparation must be made before freezing weather comes on in the fall. This consists in digging and prepar- ing the hole to receive the tree, as before, after putting in some extra dirt, which is to be removed before dropping the tree into the hole, and used in filling any extra space about the roots. Also dig a trench around the tree as deep as its main roots run, leaving a large ball of dirt attached to the roots. Shave the dirt down on top until the roots appear, to lessen the weight. Both the trench and the receiving hole should be filled with straw, leaves, or coarse manure, to prevent the ball of roots and the extra filling dirt from freezing down on the bottom. Time for Removing Trees thus Prepared. Now, if you have extensive planting to be done, and the above preparations are completed, you can wait until the ground is thoroughly fiozen in winter, when the removal should be done, taking care not to bruise the trees, and leav- ing the ball of dirt as large as can be conveniently moved. If but few trees are to be removed, and the weather is favor- able, i. €., cold, freezing nights and warm days, some prac- tice moving the trees in the fall, early in the morning, after a 184 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. crust has been frozen over the ball of dirt left about the tree dug around the day previous, and thus obviate the necessity of covering the dirt, which thaws out at midday, if left ex- posed on the surface near the hole. But where extensive planting is to be done, the first method should be adopted. Then in midwinter remove the filling', and diif down the bank on the most convenient side to such a slant as to adn)it a stone-boat or sled being backed under the tree, when tipped over in the opposite direction. In this way, trees a foot in diameter may be safely moved, if you apply force enough to move them. Another method of movino- large trees is to use a wide, stout cart with a heavy tongue, which last is raised along side the body of the tree and bound fast, at the same time passing a strong chain under the ball of roots and over the axle of the cart, then pull the tree over with a long rope attached to the end of the tongue, after which, hitch a team to the root end, draw it to the new hole on planks, and lower as before directed. Before removing the tree, be sure and make some mark, either by cutting off a limb or peeling the bark from the body a little, always on the same side of every tree you re- move, the more easily to be remembered, by which you may know how the tree stood, and thus be able to place the same sides to the same ])oints of the compass when you sot them out. Some think this an unimportant point, wiiile othei's lay great stress upon it. At least, it is a safe rule and re- quires little extra work; and iiidct'd it would seem ([uite reasonable that the same side that had l)econit> acclimated to the rays of the sun or any class of winds should be l»e.st able to conform to their etl'ects when transplanted in the same relative positions. As a general rule, the width of the roots KINDS OF TREES. 185 left should be as many feet as the tree is inches in diameter. After drawing the tree to its place, remove the filling and dirt until to the right depth by measure, and then lower the tree carefully to its place, packing the dirt about the ball and usino^ the rest of the fillinof for a mulcli. For removing small trees or shrubs, and always for ever- greens, which are much more difficult to make grow, where the dirt is to be removed from the roots, damp days should be chosen; otherwise great care should be taken to cover and moisten the roots. Your success will also depend much upon the kind of trees chosen. Maples, elms, ashes, and most nursery-grown trees are quite tenacious of life; but oaks, hickories, chestnuts, and other deep-rooted trees must be handled with care. Some cut a circle about the tree, severing the roots some distance from the body, or even dig a trench and fill with rich dirt six months before removal, causing many fine, fibrous roots to spring out. Never select tall, spindling trees, grown in deep shade ; but rather get good, healthy, stocky trees from the open fields or outskirts of the woods, where the sunlight and winds have had a chance to harden and acclimate them to the conditions with wliich they are likely to meet in your exposed lawns or roadsides. The land must be tho- roughly drained previously, so that no water will settle in the holes, for no success need' be expected with most trees unless this is done, either naturally or by tiles. Kinds of Trees. Of the shaped trees, shrubs, and flowers to be chosen to accompany the various styles of architecture, we have already spoken several times, either by way of criticism or direct in- struction ; and since we have only attempted to improve small 186 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. city places so far, where little can be done in the fine of grouping, we can recommend no trees better suited to the roadside than the different kinds of maples, which are up- right, hardy, beautiful trees. Elms are superb specimen trees, especially on low or level grounds, where there is plenty of room for theii' devel- opment; but for these small places, as before stated, trees of the second class in size are as large as can be used, and among these may be named the mountain .ash, catalpa, beeches, birches, lindens, clogivood, sassafras, buckeye or horse-chestnuts, and in most locations, nothing is more beau- tiful at all seasons of the year than the common pepper- idgc, among deciduous trees. And among the evergreens useful for small places, the Norway spruce takes the lead foi either specimen trees or small groups, while the arbor vitoi is best suited for ornamental fences or hedges, as it stands trimming well and thrives under almost any condi- tion, in shade or sunshine. Cedars also answer the same pui'pose very well. Evergreen barberry and the low, bushy juniper fill a needed want. But we must refer you to the woods or to a list of the trees that may be had almost anywhere, for want of further space. -j£^ g'"--' -'(» [187J i^MJ^:0'wy^:m W. 0)AGI^AME LiAGE. THE CAUSE OF THE DEMAND FOR THIS KIND OF LACE. —HOW TO MAKE IT.— FULL DESCRIPTION OF EVERY KIND OF KNOT USED IN ITS MANUFACTURE, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.— NEW KNOTS DESCRIBED.— HOW TO MAKE ALL KINDS OF DESIGNS. LTHOUGH the manufacture of Macrame lace has long been known, tlie difficulty of making it prevents its becoming common; for this reason it will always be in demand. Many lovely things can be made out of it — shopping bags, lambrequins for chairs, mantles and curtains; piano covers and tables are fringed with it. Materials. A patent lace desk, as shown in our illustra- tion, or an obloiuj cushion, made of strong material, filled with .saw dust or bran, and stuffed hard. The desk, or cusliion, is so light that it may be carried about, and rested on the knee or a small table wliilc working. ri881 190 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Ordinary pins of two sizes are required if the cushion is used. Coarse or fine Macrame thready depending upon tlie quality of the lace desired. This thread conies in all colors, and may be purchased at a dry goods store or ship- chandlers Barbour Brothers' llax thread is now vei-y popu- lar, as it does not soil so easy, and is much softer to woik with. The process of making the lace is simply knotting the threads together so as to form jjleasing patterns. The foundation lines, or threads, are double threads run- ning across the desk to which the leaders are attached. The number of these and their distance apart is governed by the pattern to be worked, but there are never less than two, as will be seen in Fig. 1. In using the oblong cushion, these lines are secured by the large-sized pins. Cut the threads the length of the pattern desired, or piece them. The threads which form the pattern are fastened to these foundation lines as beV>w stated. A leader is the threaa which is held firmly in the hand while other threads are being knotted on to it, and every thread of the pattern becomes a leader in its turn. In commencing a pattern with a heading like the ones given with Figures 1, 2, 3, etc., pin on the foundation line, take the thread you are to work with, pass the two ends under, pointing them up; draw them over through the loop, draw up tightly; repeat to the end of the cushion. Put small pins between every four or six threads, just under the top foundation line. Pin on a second foundation line, and knot or loop each thread twice over it with tlie left hand. This loop is a simple button hole stitch, and is always worked as such. The lace should be held tightly, as it adds to its beauty. MACRAME LACE. 191 Figure 5 illustrates two leaves of three rows, and a raised picot The leaves are the six knotted threads, one leaf on each side of the raised picot, which is seen in the centre. Description of Stitches. Single Chain, (Fig. 1.) — This simple knot is made with two threads, one of which is held straight in the left hand Knot the other on to it once with the right hand ; hold this thread straight in the right hand, aud knot the other on to it with the left. Repeat. 19l> OTA' HOMES AM) THEIR ADORNMENTS. IJouBLE Chain, (Fig. 2.)— Exactly like the single chain, but with four threads, using two threads each time instead of one. Open Ch.vin, (Fig. 3.) — Take four threads, commence with the two at the left side, hold the first of these in the right hand as leader, knot the second twice on to it with the left hand, pass the same leader to the left hand, knot the same thread as before twice on to it; take the next two threads, hold the fir^ thread in the right hand as leader, knot the second thread twice on to it, pass the leader to the left hand, knot the same thread as before twice onto it, hold the leader still in the left hand, and knot the first leader twice on to it with the right hand; knot the remaining thread at the left side twice on to it, leaving a loop before drawing it up tight. It would be well to observe that, in making this open chain, after the loops are made, the leader is always passed into the other hand, and the thread knotted twice on to it. Pass the same leader back to the right hand, and knot the same thread twice on to it with the left hand. Then take up two threads at the right side, hold the under one in the right hand, as leader, knot the other thread twice on to it, leaving a loop as before. Pass the same leader to the left hand, and knot the same thread twice on to it. ][old the leader still in the left hand, and knot the leader at the left side twice on to it; knot the remaining thread at the left side on to it, leaving a loop as before. Then pass the leader back to the right hand, and knot the same thread twice on to it. Solomon's Knot, ' I'ig 4 ) — The same number of threads are required lus in making the open chain : hold the two centre ones straight : pass the thread at left side loosely over these. Take the thread at right side, pass it over the first MACE A ME LACE. 193 thread and under the centre ones, and up through the loop at leftside ; draw it tight. Then take the right hand thread, pass it over the two centre ones loosely ; take the left thread, pass it over this, under the centre ones, and up through the loop at the right side ; draw it up tight to meet the first part of the knot. This forms one Solomon's knot. Eaised Picot, (Fig. 5.) — The raised picot is usually knotted between two leaves. Select the four centre tlireads — two from each leaf — hold the two centre ones straight and make six Solomon's knots on to them ; pass the two centre threads down through the opening between the two leaves ; take one of these threads and knot it once to the thread at the left side, take up the other and knot it once to the remaining thread at the right side. Our illustrations, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, give a very good idea how to make this lace. Double, or True Lovers' Knot. — This knot can be made by two or more threads. Take the thread on the left, cross it over the right, bringing round in a loop. Then take the right thread, carry it round over the left, under and between the threads at top of loop, bring it over and take up the thread in the loop ; draw up tight as may be desired. Design for Working Fig. 6.-^Pin on the straight lines in the usual way, after which fasten on the threads thus : Pass the two ends of each thread under the top line, pointing them up, then bring them through the loop, then loosen the second line, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. Then take two threads ; hold the first in the left hand, knot the other three times on to it with the right hand ; repeat this to the end of the desk. Then take one thread from each; hold one in the right hand, and knot the other on to it with the left hand ; repeat to the end of desk. 13 194 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Then loosen the third line at the right side, hold it in the right hand, and knot each thread twice on to it with the left hand. *Take the first six threads, hold the first thread in the right hand as leader, knot the five threads on to it with the left hand, each thread twice ; then make the second row of the leaf thus :— Hold the first thread at the left side again Fig 6. Threads for this Pattern one yard, three inches long. in tlio rigid hand, knot each of the five threads twice on to it with the Mt hand ; then take the next six threads, hold the sixth thread in the left hand as leader, and knot each of the five threads twice on to it with tlic right hand; then MACRAME LACE. 195 make the second row of the leaf by holding the sixth thread again in the left hand and knotting each of the five threads on to it with the right ; then hold the same thread as leader in the left hand, and knot the leader of the first leaf twice on to it ; then make the third leaf, hold the same leader still in the left hand, and knot the threads on to it with the right hand; then take the six threads and repeat for a second line; then take the six threads at the right side, hold the first of these (that is, the left side one) in the right hand and make the fourth leaf, knotting the threads on with the left hand ; rejieat for the second line : repeat from * to end of the desk ; then loosen the fourth line, and knot each thread twice on to it in the usual way. The Scollop.* — Take eight threads, divide them into two parts ; take the first four threads, hold the first thread in the right hand, and knot the three threads on to it with the left hand. Second row of Leaf. — Take the first thread again, hold it in the right hand and knot the three threads on with the left hand ; then take the next four threads, hold the fourth thread as leader in the left hand, and knot each of the three threads on to it with the right. Make the second row of the leaf in the same way ; hold the leader still in the left hand, and join the two leaves by knotting the leader of the first leaf twice on to it. Eepeat from * six times, then reduce it one in each row until the point is formed according to the engraving; then join the two leaders, of the leaves at the point ; then take the first thread at the left side, hold it in the right hand as leader, and knot each thread three times on to it down the side of the scollop to form a con- tinuous line, then take the thread at the right side of the scollop ; hold it in the left hand, and knot each thread three times on to it with the right hand; then join the 196 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Length of threads to work with, two yards and a-half. two leaders by hoUliiij: one tij^lit and kiiottiug the other twice on to it; tluii take the first thread again at the left MACRAME LACE. I97 side and make a second line, after which take the first thread at the right side, hold it in the left hand and make a second line ; repeat at each side to form a third line. The leader is alwaj'S held at the top, and the threads underneath, after which the threads are held back, fastened down with needle and thread on the wrong side, and then cut close. Design for Working Fig. 7. — To make Picot heading, take two threads, hold the ends of them evenly together, pin them on cushion above the first leader, and make with them two double chains over the pin. Repeat to end of cushion. Loosen the leader, hold firmly in the right hand and knot each thread on to it twice with the left. To make the twist, take the first four threads and make eight knots, the same as the drst half of the Solomon's knot. Pin on the second leader, knot threads on it twice with left hand to end of cushion. Take the first two threads, tie in a double chain ; take the next thread in the left hand, and knot the two threads of double chain twice on to it with the right ; take the next threads, make two double chains, then make double chain of the two threads you have just knotted over the diagonal leader ; take the next thread in the left hand, and knot the four threads on it twice with the right ; repeat until you have six, or more if preferred, of the double chain knots in a diagonal row. When knotting the thread on the diagonal leader, leave off the last double chain or knot, pin on the third straight leader, and knot all the thread on it with the left hand ; make the twist, pin on the fourth leader, and knot threads on it to end of cushion. To make the point, leave off two threads, make one Solomon's knot of the next four threads, and repeat until you have six Solomon's knots ; then, with the third and fourth threads of the first Solomon's knot, and the first and second threads of the second knot, 198 OUIi HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. make the first Solomon's knot of the second row, and repeat until you have five Make four in the third row, three in the fourth, two in the fifth, and one in the last. Take the two threads that you left off at the beginning of the Solomon's knots, hold the second one in the right hand, knot the first one twice on to it, and then knot each thread from the Solomon's knots twice on to it, until you have knotted the twelve threads, or half the Solomon's knots, on the leader. Take the first thread on the left side, hold in the right hand, and knot the thirteen threads twice on to it with the left. Then take the fir.st two threads at the right of Solomon's knots, hold the second one in the left hand, and knot each thread on it twice with the right ; take the first thread at the right, and knot all the threads on it with the right hand; fasten the two leaders together at the point, and make four Picots, the first one of the four threads at the jioint, the second of the first two threads of the Picot, the first two at left of Picot, the third of the last two threads of the first Picot, the first two at right of Picot, and the fourth of the four middle threads. Take the six threads from the Picots, and two threads from each side, divide in tlie middle and make the double or true lovers' knot, as already described. For the twist of the remaining threads, take the first four threads, make forty half knots in the first and fourth, and thirty-seven in the second and third ; take all the threads in the right hand but one, and knot the one twice on them with the left ; then take them all but one in the left hand, and knot the oiu^ twice on them with the right. Cut the tassel the desired length, and untwist each thread, as it makes the tassel fuller. A tassel can be hung between each point. One pattern can be used for a sho])ping bag, or the pattern may be repeated for a lambrequin, and tassel hung between each point. LINCRUSTA WALTON. wm. I^NIiPTING. EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED— SOME SPLENDID DESIGNS FOR KNITTED LACE, INSERTIONS, BORDERS AND EDG- INGS.— ILLUSTRATED DESIGNS AND DIRECTIONS FOR MITTENS, STOCKINGS, ETC., ETC. ■ ^ .- ■ ■Saifcv .—.-a r/5] ii/i m m if M. ii '■iK-.h ■■-**?''■ — ti A.NY useful and beautiful articles are made from knitting silk. The designs are so numer- ous, that it is useless to attempt to give, in a work of this kind, more than some practical hints, and choice selections of the latest designs. Explanation of terms used for knitting. Cast off — This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first one over the second, and repeat as required. Tto — Means thrown over as if about to purl. K — Means knit plain. N — Ts to narrow, and means to knit two stitches together. P — Means to purl or seam [199] 200 OTIR HOMFS AXn THEIR ADOny.VFSTS. S and B — Is to slip and bind, and means to slip one stitch, knit the next and pass the slipped stitch over. O — Means to thiow thread over the needle, as if you were going to seam. S — Is to slip the stitch off without knitting. K3TG — Means knit three stitches together. 02 — Means throw thread over twice. Fagot — Means over twice andTpurl two together. No. 1. Lace Edging. Cast on 12 stitches, knit across plain. 1st row, o, k2, o, k2 together, k8. 2d row, si, kl, o, k8 together, o, k2, k2 together, o, k4. 3d row, o, k5, o, k2 together, k6. 4th row, si, kl, o, k3 together, o, k2 together, o, k7. 5th row, si, kl, k2 together, o, k7. Gth row, si, kl, o, k3 together, o, k3, o, k2 together, k2, k2 together. 7th row, si, kl, k2 together, o, k9. 8th row, si, kl, o, k3 together, o, k5, o, k3 together, repeat from first row. No. I. No. 2. Antique Lace. Cast on 17 stitches. 1st row, k2, o2, n, k4, o. n3 to-Acther, kl, o, kl, o, n, o, k2. 2d row, o, n, p, all but last four, k those plain. KNITTING. 201 3d row, k7, o, n3 together, kl, o, kS, o, n, o, k2. 5th row, k2, o2, n, k2, o, u3 together, kl, o, k5, o, n, o, k2. 7th row, k5, o^ n3 together, kl, o. k7, o, n, o, k2. 9th row, k2, o2, n, k8, o, n3 together, kl, o, n, o, n, kl. 11th row, kll, o, n3 together, kl, o, n, o, n, kl. 13th row, k2, o2, n, k6, o, u3 together, kl, o, n, o, n, kl. 15th row, k9, o, n 3 together, kl, o, n, o, n, kl. 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, I4th and 16th rows like 2d row. No. 3. The Jewel Edge. Cast on ten stitches. 1st row, k2, o, n, o, n, o four times, n, fagot. 2d row, fagot, knit the stitches, purl the loops. 3d row, k2, o, n, kl, o, n, k4, fagot. 5th row, k2, o, n, k2, o, n, k3, fagot. 7th row, k2, o, n, k3, o, n, k'i, fagot. 9th row, k2, o, n, k4, o, n, kl, fagot. 11th row, k2 o, n, k5, o, n, fagot. 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th like 2d row. 12th row, bind 3, take the stitch on the right hand needle, put it back on the left hand needle, fagot, k5, pi, k2. No. 4. Diamond Insertion. Cast on 19 stitches. 1st row, k2, o, u k5, o, n, k8. 2d row, k2, o, n, rest plain. 3d row, k2, o, n, k4, o, n, o, n, k7. 5th row, k2, o, n, k3, o, n 3 times, k6. 7th row, k2, o, u, k2, o, n 4 times, k5. 9th row, k2, o, n, kl, o, u 5 times, k4. 11th row, k2, o, n, k2, o. n 4 times, k5. 13th row, k2 o, n, k3, o, n 3 times, k6. 15th row, k2, o, n, k4, o, n twice, k7. 17th row, k2, o, n, k5, o, n, k8. 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th, 12th, 14th, 16th and 18th rows like 2d. 202 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Smyrna Lace. Cast on 20 stitches, knit across plain. 1st row, k3, o2, kl, n, o2, kl4. 2d row, k6, n, o2, kl, n, o2, klO, 3d row, k3, o2, kl, n, o2, kl5. 4th row, k5, n, o2, kl, n, o2, kl2. 5th row, k3, o2, kl, n, o2, kl6. 6th row, kl, n, o2, kl, n, o2, kl4. 7th row, k3, o2, kl, n, o2, kl7. 8th row, kB, n, o2, kl, n, o2, kl6. 9th row, k24 plain. 10th row, kl5, u, o2, kl, n, o2, k2, n. 11th row, kl3, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k5. 12th row, kl4, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k2, n. 13th row, kll, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k6. 14th row, kl3, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k2, n. 15th row, k9, n, 02, kl, n, o2, k7. 16th row, kI2, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k2, n. 17th row, k7, n, o2, kl, n, o2, k8. IStli row, k20 plain When you knit back, drop oiu' of the two loops and one of it. Smyrna Insertions. Cast on 23 stitches, knit across plain. 1st row, kl2, o2, n, kl, o2, n, k6. 2d row, same as first, the o2 throngh entire pattern makes on stitch when knitted and one dropped. 3d row, kl3. o2, n, kl, o2, n, k5. 4th row, same as third. 5th row, kl4, o2, n, kl, o2, n, k4. (>th row, same as 5th. 7th row, kl5, o2, n, kl, o2, n, k3. 8th row, same avS 7th. yth row, kl6, o2, n, kl, o2, n, k2. KNITTING. 203 10th row, same as 9th. 11th row, kl4, n, o2, n, kl, o2, k4. 12th row, same as 11th. 13th row, kl3, ii, o2, n, kl, o2, k5. 14th row, same as 13th. 15th row, kl2, u, o2, n, kl, o2, k6. 16th row, same as I'ith. 17th row, kll, u, o2, ii, kl, o2, k7. 18th row, same as 17th. Commence again at 3d row. Wide Lemon Seed Lace. Cast on 23 stitches, knit across plain. 1st row, k3, o, n, k3, o, kl, o, k5, o, n, o, n, o 4 times, n, o, n, kl. 2d row, k5, pi, kl, pi, kl, pi, kl, pi, kl3, o, n, kl. 3d row, k3, o, n, kl, n, o, k3, o, n, k3, o, n, kl, o, n, If4, o, n, kl. 4th row, k8, pi, k2, pi, kl3, o, u, kl. 5th row, k3, o, n, n, o, k5, o, n, k2, o, n, k2, o, n, k3, o, n, kl. 6th row, k7; pi, k3, pi, kl3, o, u, kl. 7th row, k3, o, k3tg, o, n, k 5, n, o, n, kl, o, n, k3, o, n, k2, o, n, kl. 8th row, k6, pi, k4, pi, kll, o, n, kl. 9th row, k3, o, n, kl, o, n, kl, n, o, k3, o, n, k4, o, n, kl, o, n, kl. 10th row, k5, pi, kl, pi, kll, o, n, k3, o, n, kl. 11th row, k3, o, n, k2, o, k^tg, o, k4, o, n, k5, o, n, o, n, kl. 12th row, cast otf three, k7, pi, kll, o, n, kl. Knitted Wristeb. Cast on 63 stitches. 1st row, o, n, k2, o, kl, o, k2, si, kl, pass s over; keep knitting in this way until you get around, then knit the same as before, only drop the loop before narrowing each time. Very handsome. 204 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Ladies' Fancy Silk Mittens. — Materials required : one ounce of Florence knitting silk, size No. 300, and five, No. 19 knitting needles. Cast on 82 stitches and knit one round plain. 2d round, kl, o, kl, o, kl, o, kl, o, kl, o, kl, o, kl, p2: repeat until 10 stiches remain, then kS, ])2. KNITTING. 205 3d round, s and b, k9, n, p2 ; repeat until ten stitches remain, then k8, p2. 4th round, s and b, k7, n, p2 ; repeat until ten stitches remain, then k8, p2. 5th round, s and b, k5, n, p2 ; repeat until ten stitches remain, then k8, p2. As four rounds are required to complete each shell pat- tern, the 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th rounds are a repetition of the 2d, 3d, 4th and 5th rounds in the order named. This shell is repeated in the mitten, shown in the cut, 17 times, but if a longer wrist is desired, more shells can be added at pleas- ure. The twist pattern shown in the centre of the back is continued as follows, viz.: 10th and 11th rounds, same as 2d and od. In the 12th round, the last ten stitches are disposed of in the following manner, namely : Slip off the first four stitches on the fifth or extra needle, knit the next four, then the four from the extra needle, and purl the two stitches remaining to complete the round. This operation must be repeated in every 12th round up to point where the mitten begins to decrease to finish the hand. One shell stripe each side of the twist pattern is to be continued up to the same point. To make the thumb take three stitches for the base of the thumb, and purl one stitch each side of the three. In the next round, and in every fourth round thereafter, make two stitches for increase of width for thumb, at the same time continuing in every round the two purled stripes which outline the same, until you have twentj^-seven stitches in the thumb exclusive of the purled stripes. The increase should be made next the purled stripes. In commencing the thumb, the stitches for this purpose must be so chosen as to bring the fancy work on back of mitten as near as possible to the centre of same. In the right hand mitten 206 orn HOMES and their adorxments. the thumb is on the left hand side of fancy work, and in the left hand mitten the reverse. When you have twenty-seven stitches in thumb, knit three rounds plain (except fancy back,) and at the end of the third plain round cast on four extra stitches. Now, slip the twenty-seven thumb stitches on a piece of twine, tie securely, and with remaining; stitches continue the hand narrowing in each round once at the point where extra stitches were made until seventy-nine stitches remain. To finish the hand from point of decrease, when sufficient length has been obtained: Having seventy- nine stitches, begin at corner of needle, k7, n, k7, n, k7, n, k7, n, k7, n, k7, n, k7, n. Knit the rest of this round plain. 2d round plain, 3d round, k7, n ; and rei)eat entirely around; then knit seven rounds plain. 11th round, k6, n; repeat entirely around and knit six rounds plain. 18th round, k5, n; repeat entirely around, and knit five rounds plain. 24th round, k4, n; repeat entirely around, and knit four rounds plain. Kow, narrow once on each needle in every round until only four stitches are left on a needle, then narrow twice on each needle and bind off. When decreasing, once on each needle only, do not narrow at the same point in every round, but at a different place in each successive round. To finish thund), place the twenty-seven stiches on the three needles and pick up four stitches from the base of gore formed between the hand and thumb by casting on the foui- extra stitches, knit once around and narrow once in each of the next four rounds at tlic ]>oint where the gore is, Jicn knit fifty rounds i)lain and finish by nairowing once on each needle in e^'ery round, until all the stitches are dis- KNITTING. 207 posed of. It will be noticed that the illustration shows the fancy stitch continued to tlie tip of the liand, but as this adds nothing to its beauty, plain knitting is recommended from the point of decrease. Baby's Sock, with Imitation Slipper. Materials: * ounce pink, and I ounce white, l^o. 300 Florence knitting silk, and four 'So. 18 knitting needles. 208 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. With pink silk, cast on to each of these needles twenty- four stitches, making seventy-two stitches; purl three rounds, and knit three rounds plain. Commence the open work pattern (which is in twelves and is repeated six times in each round), and knit as follows with the white silk, viz: 7th round, n, n, tto, kl, tto, k2, tto, kl, tto, n, n, repeat. 8th and 9th rounds plain. Repeat these three rounds until you have done 56 rounds of the white open work. Knit all of the 57th round plain except the last seven stitches, which transfer from the third needle to the first needle, also seven stitches from the second needle to the first needle. Having thirty eight stitches on first needle, commence knitting in rows, instead of rounds, for the instep (leaving the heel until later), as follows, viz: 1st row, si, *n, n, tto, kl, tto. k2, tto, kl, tto, n, n, repeat from *, end with kl.— 2nd row, si. purl 37. — 3d row, si, k37. 4th row, si, *p2 together, p2 together, tto, pi, tto, p2, tto, pi, tto, p2 together, p2 together, repeat from *, end with pi. — 5th row, si, k37. 6th row, si, p37. Kepeat from the 1st row to the 6th row inclusive, until you liavc done thirty rows, all with the white silk. Leave the first needle in the instep, and with pink silk cast on to your fourth needle fourteen stitches extra (these are for one of the straps to the slippers), knit with same needle the thirty-four stitches from the second and third needles in the order named, and cast on fourteen more new stitches for the other strap to slipper. You have now sixty-two stitches for heel and straps, which work in rows l.st row, knit plain. — 2d, 8d, 5th and 6th rows purl. 4th row, k2, tto. n. r('i)eat until two stitches remain, which knit — 7th row, knit plain. KNITTING. 209 8th row, cast off 14 stitches, k48. 9th row, cast off 14 stitches, p34. 10th, 11th, 14th, 17th, 18th, 20th, 21st, 24th, 27th, 28th, 30th, 31th, 84th and 37th rows, si, k33. 12th, 13th, 15th, 16th, 19th, 22d, 23d, 25th, 26th, 29th, 32d, 33d, 35th and 36th rows, si, p33. 38th row, si, k22, s and b, turn. 39th and every alternate row, up to and including the 57th, si, pl2, p2 together, turn. 40th and every alternate row, uj) to and including the 56th, si, kl2, s and b, turn. Xext pick up on the left side of heel 16 loops and purl the same as part of the 57th row. Turn, kSO, and pick up on the other side of heel 16 more loops and knit as part of 58th row. 59th row, klO, pl4, kl4, n.— 60th row, pl5, kl4, pl4, p2 together. — 61st row, p42, p2 together. — 62d row, k41, n. 63d row, p40, p2 together.— 64th row, pl3, kl4, pl2, p2 together. — 65th row, kl3, pl4, kll, n. — 66th row, k37, n. 67th row, p'56, i)2 together. — 68th row, k35, n. 69th row, kll, pl4, k9, n.— 70th row, plO, kl4, p9, p2 together. — 71st row, p32, p2 together. — 72d row, k31, n. 73d row, p30, p2 together. — 74th row, p8, kl4, p7, p2 together. — 75th row, k8, pl4, k6, n. —76th row, k27, n. 77th row, p26, p2 together.— 78th row, k25, n. 79th row, k6, pl4, k4, n. — 80th row, p5, kl4, p4,p2 together. 81st row, p24.— 82d row, k24.— 83d row, p24.— 84th row, p5, kl4, p5.— 85th row, k5, pl4, k5 —86th row, k24. 87th row, p24.— 88th row, k24.— 89th row, k5, pl4, k5. 90th row, p5, kl4, p5.— 91st row, p24.— 92d row, k24. 93d row, p24. 13 210 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Now commence working in rounds with four needles, but first rearrange the stitches, by phicing those which are on the instep needle on two needles (nineteen on each.) Hereafter we shall speak of these needles as the second and third, and the other needle, which now holds the stitches form the bottom and sides of the sock, as the first. Transfer five stitches from the first to the third needle and five more from the first to the second needle Having fourteen stitches on the first and twenty four on each of the other needles, knit plain the five stitches remaining undis- posed of on the third needle. Hereafter the stitches on the first needle are all^knit plain in every round, and those on the other needles are worked alternately, two rounds purled and three rounds knit plain. The first decrease for toe is in the second round of purl- ing, and occurs in this and in every alternate round there- after, at the first corner of the second and the last corner of the third needles, either by narrowing or purling, as the case may be, until twenty eight stitches only remain on the three needles, then decrease twice at each of said corners in each of the next two rounds. Transfer the stitches from the second to the third needle, and knit the ten stitches on this needle with the ten on the first needle together, casting off as you knit. Finish the sock by twisting a cord from the pink silk, anl running the same into the open work of the ankle and straps, tipping with tassels of same color. gfoCS^jr'^'l '^ m PATTERNS. ;# ■"" 's^^ « ■• TERMS USED IN CROCHET.— DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ANTIQUE, POINT, SHELL AND OTHER LACES, EEMS USED IN CROCHET. — S.S.— 'Short Stitch — keep one loop ou the needle, put the needle into the stitch and draw the thread through it ^\ and the loop at the same time. S.C. — Single Crochet — Put the needle into the stitch and draw the thread through it, and then put the thread over and draw through both loops to- gether. L.C. — Long Crochet — Put the thread over needle before you put it into the work, draw the thread through work, then thead over and through two loops, and again thread ovei- and through two loops. O.C.— Open Crochet— niake one long crochet, then one chain stitch, and omit or pass over one stitch of the work, make one long crochet into next stitch. [2111 212 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Antique Lace. 1st row, chain of 30 stitches. 2d row, I.e. into 3d and then into 4th stitch ; chain of 2, I.e. into 6th stitch; chain of 2, I.e. into 8th, 9th and 10th stitches; chain of 4, s.s. into 16th and 17th stitches; chain of 4, I.e. into 22d, 23d and 24th stitches; chain of 2, 1 c. into 27th, 28 and 29th stitches. 3d row, chain of 2, I.e. three times between 1st and 2d I.e. last made ; chain of 3, I.e. into 1st open space ; chain of 3, I.e. once into top of 6th I.e. of 2d row, and twice into open space ; chain of 3, I.e. into top of 2d s.s. stitch ; chain of 3^ I.e. twice into open space and once into top of 7th I.e. of 2d row ; chain of 2, I.e. into top of 9th I.e. of 2d row ; chain of 2, I.e. into top of 10th I.e. of 2d row; chain of 2, I.e. once into each of the remaining I.e. of 2d row. 4th row, chain of 2, I.e. once between I.e. last made ; chain of 2, I.e. into top of 3d I.e. of 3d row, "chain of 2, I.e. into 4th I.e. of 3d row, chain of 2, I.e. into 5th I.e. of 3d row, chain of 2, I.e. into 7th I.e. of 3d row. I.e. twice into open space ; chain of 2, I.e. twice into next open space and once into 9th I.e. of 3d row, chain of 4 s.s. once into 12th I.e. of 3d row and once in stitch on each side; chain of 4, I.e. three times between last I.e. of 3d row. 5th row, chain of 2, I.e. three times between 1st and 2d I.e. last made ; chain of 5, s.s. once into each of the 3 s.s. chain of 5, I.e. three times into space ; chain of 2, I.e. into 9th I.e. of 4th row ; repeat to end of row. 6th row, chain of 2, I.e.; cliain of 2. I.e. into 3d I.e. of 5th row ; repeat to 6th I.e. of 5th row ; I.e. twice into space ; chain of 2 I.e. into 9th 1 c. of 5tli row; I.e. twice into space; chain of 4, s.s. once into each of 3 s.s. ; chain of 4 I.e. twice into space, once into 10th I.e. of 5th row. CROCHETTED PATTERNS. 213 7th row, cbaiu of 2, 1 c. three times into space; chain of 8, I.e. into 2d s.s. ; chain of 3, I.e. twice into space once into 4th I.e. of 6th row ; chain of 3, 1 c. into space ; chain of 3, I.e. once into 9th I.e. of 6th row, twice into space ; chain of 2, I.e. once into 11th I.e. of 6th row ; repeat to end of row. 8th row, chain of 2, I.e. ; chain of 2, I.e. into 3d I.e. of 7th row ; chain of 2, I.e. into 4th I.e. of 7th row and twice into space ; cliain of 4, s.s. three times, once into 8th I.e. of 7th row, once into stitch each side ; chain of 4, 1 c. three times in space ; chain of 2, 1 c. twice into space and once into 13th I.e. of 7th row. 9th row, chain of 2, I.e. three times into space ; chain of 5 s.s. once into each s.s. of 8th row; chain of 5, I.e. three times into space ; chain of 2, I.e. twice. 10th row, chain of 2, I.e. ; chain of 2, I.e. into 3d I.e. of 9th row ; chain of 2, I.e. once into 5th I.e. of 9th row and twice into space ; chain of 4, 3 s.s. ; chain of 4, 3 I.e. 2 into space, once into 6th I.e. of 9th row ; chain of 2, I.e. three times into space. 11th row, chain of 2, I.e. three times between 1st and 2d I.e. last made of 10th row ; chain of 3, I.e. in space ; chain of 3, I.e. once in 6th I.e. of 10th row, twice in space ; chain of 3, I.e. into 2d s.s. ; chain of 3, I.e. twice in space, once in 7th l.e of 10th row; chain of 2 1 c. into 9th 1 c. of 10th row; repeat to end of row. 12th, row, chain of 2, I.e. into 2d 1. c. of 11th row ; chain of 2, I.e. into 3d I.e. ; chain of 2, I.e. into 4th l.e ; chain of 2, I.e. into 5th I.e.; cliain of 2, I.e. three times in space; chain of 2, I.e. twice in space, once in 9th I.e. of 11th row; chain of 4, s.s. once in 12th I.e. of 11th row and once each side ; cliain of 4 I.e. three times between the two last 1 c. of 11th row. 13th row, chain of 2, I.e. three times ; chain of 5 s.s. three times; chain of 5, I.e. three times in space; chain of 2, I.e. repeat to end of row, then repeat from 6th row Inclusive. 214 nrn homes asd their ADORXMExrs.' Antiquk Insertion — Suitable for window curtains or pillow shams, can easily be crocheted from this pattern to match the beautiful edge. Fan Lace. 1st row, chain 16 links. 2d row, I.e. twice into the 8th link ; chain 2, I.e. twice into the 8th link; chain 4, l.c twice into 16th link; chain 2, l.c. twice into 16tb link. 3d row, chain 2 1. c. 2 into shell ; chain 2, l.c. twice into same shell; l.c. four times in space ; l.c. twice into shell j chain 2, l.c. twice into shell ; l.c. ten times into loop. 4th row, chain 2, l.c. ten times, once between each l.c. of scollop; * l.c. twice into shell; chain 2, 1 c. twice into same shell ; cliaiu 4, l.c. i into shell ; chain 2, 1 c. twice into shell. 5th row, chain 2, l.c. twice into shell; chain 2, I.e. 2 into shell; l.c. four times into space, l.c. twice into shell; chain 2, 1 c. 2 into shell; l.c. into space; t chain 1, I.e. into ^^pace; repeat to end of scollop. 6th row, chain 2 l.c. in space; chain 2, I.e. in space, CROCHETED PATTERNS. 215 repeat to end of scollop ; then repeat from star to cross ; then chain 2, I.e. in space ; repeat to end of scollop. 7th row, chain 2, I.e. four times in first space and s.s. once in first space, s.s. in second space and I.e. four times, then s.s. all in second space ; repeat to end of scollop ; repeat from star to cross, omitting the I.e. in space; chain of 6 s.s. into first small scollop of the large scollop ; chain of 2, I.e. nine times in loop, this forms a nucleus for scollops ; repeat from star short stitching every alternate row into top of small scollops, adding one more row with a chain of 3 between each 1. c. before finishing with the small scollops ; all other scollops made same as second. Clover Leaf Lace. 1st row chain of 6, join, chain of 3. 2d row, 2 I.e. into ring, chain 2, 2 I.e. into same place. 3d row, chain of 4, 2 I.e. into shell ; chain of 2, 2 I.e. into same place ; chain of 5, catch with s.s. into ring. 4th row, chain 7, 12 s.c. into chain of 5; chain of 1, 2 I.e. into shell ; chain of 2, 2 I.e. into same place, catch with s.s. into chain of 4. 5th row, chain of 4, 2 I.e. into shell ; chain 2, 2 I.e. into same ; chain 5, catch into chain of 1. 6th row, chain of 1, 6 s.c. into chain ; chain of 5, catch back into middle of first scollop. 7th row, chain of 1, 12 s e. into chain of 5, 6 s c. into half finished scollop ; chain of 1, 2 I.e. into shell ; chain of 2, 2 I.e. into same place ; s.s. into chain of 4 ; repeat from third row. Grecian Insertions. 1st row, chain 30 links. 2d row, I.e. into sixth link ; 3 I.e. once each into the three following links: *, chain of 2, skip 2, I.e. into next link; repeat from * four times; 3 I.e. chain of 2, ,«kip 2, 1 I.e. 3d row, chain of 4, I.e. once into top of I.e. then I.e. fifteen times, once each into the fifteen following l.c and links ; chain of 2, skip 2, 4 l.c. chain of 2, 1 l.c. 216 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 4th row, chain of 4, 4 I.e. once each in top of 4 I.e. last made ; chain of 2, 4 I.e., * chain of 2, 1 I.e. ; repeat from * twice ; 3 I.e. chain of 2, 1 I.e. 5th row, chain of 4, 4 I.e. * chain of 2, 4 I.e. ; repeat from * twice ; chain of 2, 1 I.e. 6th row, chain of 4, 4 I.e. * chain of 2, 1 I.e. ; repeat from * twice; 3 I.e. chain of 2, 4 I.e. chain of 2, 1 I.e. 7th row, chain of 4, 4 I.e., chain of 2, 16 I.e., chain of 2, 1 I.e. 8th row, chain of 4, etc. ; repeat from 2d row. Point Lace. 1st row, chain of 19 links. 2d row. I.e. into the 3d link, I.e. once into each of the nine following links; * I.e. three times into 13th link; chain 1, I.e. three more times into same link ; chain 1, 1 c. three times into 17th link ; chain 1, I.e. three more times into same link. 3d row, chain 3 I.e. three times in shell; chain 1, I.e. three times in same shell ; chain 1, I.e. three times in next sliell ; chain 1, I.e. three times in same shell ; f chain 1 I.e. into top of 2d I.e. from centre of shell; chain 1, skip 1 I.e. and I.e. into top of next I.e. ; repeat to end. 4th row, chain of 3. I.e. into top of 2d I.e. last made; chain of I, I.e. into next I.e., repeat to first I.e. inclusive; chain 1, I.e. between 2d and 3d I.e. of shell; repeat from * to t. 5th row. I.e. between 1st and 2d I.e. of shell, between 2d and 3d and into top of 3d; chain 1, I.e. into next I.e.; repeat once. 6th row, chain 3, I.e. into 2d I.e. last made ; chain 1, I.e. into top of next I.e., I.e. between this I.e. and next I.e. ; repeat to top of shell, then repeat from * to f. 7th row, 1 ('. once between 1st and 2d l,c. of shell; repeat seven times, chain 1, skip 1, I.e. repeat once. CROCHETED PATTERNS. 217 8th row, chain 3, I.e., chain 1, I.e., I.e. once between each of following I.e. to top of shell; repeat from * to f. 9th row, chain 1, I.e. into 2d I.e. of shell; chain 1, skip 1, I.e. and I.e. into the next; repeat to end of row. lOtli row, chain 3, Ic, chain 1, I.e.; repeat to between the l.c's. at top of shell, then repeat from * to f ; repeat from 5th row inclusive. After the lace is knit the required length, finish the points by a chain of 5 s.s. into the first space ; repeat into each space around the points. Shell Lace. 1st row, chain of 7. 2d row, I.e. three times into third link ; chain 6 s.s. into sixth link. 3d row, chain 3, I.e. thirteen times into space ; chain 2, chain 2, I.e. between the last 2 I.e. of 2d row. 4th row, chain 3, I.e. three times into space ; chain 2, I.e. into 3d I.e.; chain 2, skip 1 I.e., then I.e. ; repeat to end. 5th row, chain 3, I.e. in space, * chain 2, I.e. into 2d I.e. ; chain 2, I.e. in space ; repeat from * to end. There should be eleven spaces in this row. 6th row, chain 6, s.s. in space ; repeat to end. 7th row, chain 3, I.e. three times in scollop ; chain 6, s.s. in 2d scollop ; repeat from 3d row inclusive. Shell Insertion. 1st row, chain of 10 links. 2d row, 1 c, into 4th link, * 1 chain, 1 l.c passing over one link of the first chain ; repeat from star twice ; chain of 3, skip 1 link, 7 1c into last link. 3d row, chain of 3, skip 1 link, 1 l.c. into next link ; * chain 1, skip 1, 1 l.c. into next; repeat from star|; chain of 3, 7 l.c. into place formed by chain of 3 of preceding row ; re- peat until desired length For the edge, chain of 7, 1 s.c into each chain of 3. 2d row, 11. c, chain of 1, pass over one of preceding row. JP:«^:s'i' Wmmmm. -' tG ^?>^ •^ t forty inches. It often forms THE DADO AND FRIEZE. 225 a more suitable background for the display of the furniture and other furnishings of the room, and affords place for a richer and more elaborate display than the wall-papers proper. The designs upon dados are often very lich and high- colored, while the wall-paper above has a quiet tone, and is of medium light or dark color according to the size or light of the room. The dado is almost always of a darker shade than the wall-paper, and patterns of high-colored and large flowers or birds are not uncommon. The Frieze is the top border next to the ceiling. — It is now usually from six to eighteen inches in width, the width used depending principally upon the height of the room. The custom formerly was to have the frieze daiker than the paper on the main wall, but of late years the frieze is some- what lighter than the paper, with a dark line or beading at the point where they unite. A gilt molding at the corner above the frieze produces a good effect. A roll of paper will cover from thirty-six to forty-four square feet, and by ascertaining the number of square feet on the walls to be covered, and dividing it by thirty-six, the number of rolls of paper needed will be ascertained. In measuring the walls, of course the windows and doors are not to be taken into consideration. Paper is sold by the roll, and ranges in price according to texture, style, finish, and color, from ten cents upward, some of the most elaborate styles selling as high as twenty- live dollars per roll. 15 CxFIAPTE^R HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. — SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS FOR EVERYBODY. — SIZING THE WALLS. — AMOUNT OF PAPER IN A ROLL. — HOW TO C^UT AND MATCH THE PAPER. — PASTE FOR WALL-PAPER. o>«lane-iron, or any piece of steel [326] HOW TO HANG WALL-PAPERS. 227 which has a smooth edge, after which the wall should be swept down with a stiff broom, to remove all that the scraper may have left, and make an even surface. If there is any loose plaster, those parts should be well sized and have a piece of strong paper pasted over them, but it is even better to have the place re-plastered. Cracks or holes may easily be filled with a little putty, and in no case should they be left unfilled. If not stopped in any other way, slips of paper should be pasted over them, or else the cracks will soon show through the outer paper. After all this is done, the room may be sized, and the sizing will be dry enough in an hour for the papering to be commenced. If the room has once been papered, it will be necessary to go over the walls and tear off all the loose pieces, especially at the top and bottom, corners and edges. If the bare wall is exposed by the tearing off", these spots should be sized. After all these preparations are made, the wall is ready to receive the paper, and the hanging may proceed. Wall-paper comes in rolls, eight yards in length, and from eighteen to twenty -two inches in width. A margin runs along each side of the paper usually from one-fourth to three-fourths of an inch wide, and before hanging the paper the margin on one of these edges must be trimmed close to the pattern printed on the paper. To do this, unroll a yard or two of one of the pieces of paper and with a pair of scissors trim off" the edge, rolling up the paper again as it is trimmed. It is usual to begin papering from one of the main windows in the room, and the edges of the paper when hung shall be toward that window, so that it will be necessary to 228 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. trim off the edge of the paper nearest to the window. It is necessary to trim off but one edge, as the paper when put on the wall laps over the margin of the other edge in order to match the pattern. When the edge is trimmed, cut off a length about the height of the room from the ceiling to the base-board, or if a dado is to be used, so that it will come an inch or two below the top line of the dado. The second length must be cut erials of inferior quality should never be chosen. Labor expended on them never pays. The fabrics, of what- ever material, should be firm, well woven, and devoid of irregularities. Inexpensive stuffs, when suitably treated and used for appropriate purposes, are just as desirable as more costly ones. Flax Cloth. — Unbleached brown linen is often used for chair covers, doylies, etc. Canton Flannel, — Now known as Fashion Drapery, is used very much. It is double width, and may be found in a variety of shades. Monde Cloth — Is fifty inches wide, made of both cotton and wool, and varies from one to three dollars per yard. Upholstery Felts — Are now much used instead of cloth for curtains, table-covers, lambrequins, portieres, etc. It is easy to work upon, and is made in a variety of beautiful shades, presenting the appearance of fine cloth at much less cost. Two yards wide, one dollar and a half per yard. Bolton Sheeting — Is of a beautiful cream color, and improves with washing. It is much used in embroidery, and comes in very wide widths at one dollar per yard. Plushes — Are costly materials. Cardinal, old gold, and peacock blue are the standard colors of this material ; but a varietv of other tints can be found. A beautiful new stvle is 2:V2 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Onibree plush, shaded gradually from one side of the piece to the other, producing a charming effect in screens, panels, or anything which is of sufficient size to show the shading. Single width is four dollars and a half per yard, and up- ward. Satin — Is furnished in a variety of beautiful colors, and is of great widtli, selling at six dollars and fifty cents per yard. Embroidery satin is known as Furniture Satin. Crewels — Are made in all desirable tints. Fast colors, however, are found only in the best quality of crewels. These can be cleaned without fading, and are therefore espe- cially for working on linen and flannel. In using crewel, it should be cut into short lengths, as long needlefuls pull the design out of shape. Arasene — Is a kind of chenille, rich in appearance, and producing good effects. The work is done in the same way as with crewel, except that after working, the outlines are traced over with tinsel or gold cord, which adds greatly to the cleai-ness and beauty of the design. Embroidery Silks — Include several kinds; as, bobbin silk, purse silk, filoselle, all differing in quality and texture, — bobbin silk being used for satin, silk, or any fine material. Filoselle is manufactured of inferior silks, and hence costs less than purse and bobbin silk. Beads. — Cut steel beads, colored with transparent lac- quers, allowing the metallic luster of the beads to show through, are one of the latest novelties in needle-work. A silk or linen thread is used to string them on, as many beads being strung on at each stitch as are necessary to gWQ it the desired length. As they are matle of many colors, the work can be very accuratel}' shaded, the same stitch showing several shades. CxM:?s,F>-rE.R V, EMBROIDERY STITCHES. — DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST STEM STITCH. — BLANKET STITCH. — CHAIN STITCHES. — HER- RING-BONE, BUTTON HOLE, AND SATIN STITCH. — KEN- SINGTON OUTLINE. — JANINA. — BLANKET. — DESIGN FOR BORDERS AND CENTERS. — THE NEW PLUSH STITCH. oJ»ic HE best authorities agree that for embroidery the simpler and fewer the stitches the better. Of course, the number and character of the stitches depend upon the design to be made, some designs being so elaborate as to i-equire no small amount of work. Stem or Tent StitcJi, — Which is the simplest stitch for beginners, consists of a single long stitch taken forward, followed by a shorter one backward, thus alternating, a long one forward and a short one backward, only the long stitch showing in the work. Blanket Stitch — Is exactly like the ordinary button-hole stitch, and is used in edging materials. A very Borders in Button- hole. Embossed Button-hole, or Blanket pretty effect is made by varying the length of the stitches, or sloping them in many directions. [233] 234 UUM IWMEU AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Chain Stitch. Tivisted Chain Stitch. lar to the foregoing, the needle, however, being set to the left instead of into the preceding stitch. This stitch can be varied by setting the needle far- ther to the left, and ex- tending its length, when we have what is called the Vine Chain Stitch. Chain Stitch. — This old-fashioned stitch is quite popular for fasten- ing down the edges of ap- plique work, embroider- ing mats, etc. Our il- lustration sufficiently ex- plains the method of making the stitch. This is made in a manner simi- Twisted Chain Stitch. Satin Stitch. — Our illustration of this stitch gives a very good idea of the way to work it. It is very pop- ular, and suitable for woi'k with flosses, em- broidery silks, zephyi'S, and crewels. The de- sign is stamped on the goods, and the whole tilled in well with silk or worsted, before the real embroidery is begun. Care must be taken to have the edges even. It is really an over-and- over stit(.-h, tlu' work ap- '^-— — - — — pearing nearly alike on Satin Stitch. both sides. HERRING-BONE STITCH. 235 Knot Stitch. — This stitch is useful in making the center of flowers and the ends of sta- mens. The needle is brought through, and the floss wound about it one or more times, when it is again thrust through the material very near where it was hreught up. Herring-bone Stitch. Herring-Bone Stitch.— Thin is a very popular stitch, as it makes a good appearance, and is adapted to a wide range of work. It is es- pecially appropriate for joining seams, taking the place of the unsightly ridge made by a fell. The twoilkistrationsgive a clear idea of the method of making this stitch, the larger showing one varia- tion for ornamental effect. Herring-bone Stitch. Design for a Border. — The design for a cor- ner will assist in understand- ing this. The rincjs and the diamonds are made of three threads of dif- ferent shades, while the an- gles are con- cealed by gold- colored silk. Design for a Border. 236 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. button-holed along tlie inside next to the inner thread. The stars in the center are made of the several shades used in •working the rings. Kensington Oiit- _.---^^"^^"""^^ r- -: ^;^^^==^^^^=^^^=rr:-~ sg^ ^/,jg Stitch. — ThLs is now the stitch for em- broidery work. The i^tem stitch is in re- ality the same, only the unbroken outline of the design is made with now and then a stroke representing the veins of leaves and folds of drapery. Satin is the favorite- goods for this stitch, and foliage, butter- flies, and animals are favorite designs. Kensington Outline Stitch. Janina Stitch. general outline, but the pattern is not filled in before begin- ning to em- broider, and the work shows only on one side, excepting where the short back stitch oc- curs along the outline. The needle should be set at the next to the last stitch, as shown in the -This resembles the satin stitch in its Janina Stitch DESIGN FOB A CORNER. 237 cut. It is suitable for any purpose where a surface stitch is required, such as table covers and toilet articles. Basket Stitck.-ThQ engraving presents the method of mak- ing this stitch vei'v clearly. Begin the work at the bottom, and work from you. It is a very fine stitch for borders and the d i * c* + i ,., Basket btitch. hke. Feather Stitch. — -The cut very clearly illustrates the method of working one variety of feather stitch. It is worked in two colors, and the effect is very pretty Feather Stitch. indeed. Design for a Corner or Oenter- piece. — This de- sign may be worked in a cor- ner, or it may be one-fourth of a center-piece. The ziof-zaff edgfes can be made of three shades of red, the darkest at the inner edge. The outer pouits to be crossed with yel- low, and the in- ner with four shades of blue. Design for a Corner. 238 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Wound Stitch.— This stitch is used for embroidering grain, small leaves, or flowers having small petals. The cut shows how the cord is formed. After the needle is wound, the thumb of the left hand is held firmly over it until the needle is pulled through, and the coil firmly drawn into place. Two stitches only are needed to form each kernel. The tiny stitches seen at the 'ends of the kernels may be lengthened to represent the barbs of real grain. Cross Stitch.— This stitch is made by a back-stitch movement, with the needle always pointing toward the left, unless it is desirable to change the direction of the design. When this stitch is used for working canvas, two threads each way is the limit of the stitch, one-half of which crosses diagonally from left to right, and the other half in the opposite direction. The Kensington Pattern.— The cut clearly illustrates the manner of working the Kensington Pattern. The designs are filled with colors to form the shading desired. The stitch is simply a back-stitch, filled in with no especial regularity, except to pro- duce the desired shading. St.\r Stitch. This might properly be called the mathematical stitch, as it is the sign of multiplication and addition combined. Made on the same principle as the cross stitch. Push Emuroidhky. — The most decided novelty in art embroidery is the introduc- tion of the plush embroidery. By its use sumac, cockscomb, golden rod, love-lies- bleeding, princess feather, etc., are closely imitated in te.xture as well as coloring. To make it, first fill in the flower with large French knots of the prevailing color ; then (using button-hole twist) bring the needle up between the knots, lay a double strand of filling silk on the face of the work against the needle ; take the needle down about in the same place it came up, but from the other side of the filling silk so that when drawn down the stitch has caught the filling silk about a quarter of an inch from its end ; draw the stitch down tightly, which will cause the ends of the filling silk to spring straight up; clip them off with a very sharp pair of scissors. Repeat for as many stitches as are required to cover the knots With taste and judgment in the clipping and in the number of stitches used, charming realistic effects are produced. In the cockscomb, the upper part or comb, is a rich crimson. This should be worked with stitches very close, and clipped quite long, the convolutions of the comb being represented by using three shades of crim- DESIGN FOB BANNER SCBEEN. 239 ROD. As each stitch may be made different, the shading can be perfectly done. The lower part, from the stem up to the comb, shows the green seeds, with a thin sprinkling of the velvety down. This is imitated by making the knots of dead green crewel and a few plush stitches interspersed, using a single thread Fig. 41. of the floss made of filaments of red and green. Clip these a little closer than in the comb, and use more red toward the comb. This, when skillfully done, imitates the flower beautifully and faithfully, in striking contrast to the hard. 240 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. knotted abominations of most of the " Art Schools." It only need be seen to be appreciated. Fig. 41 presents a very pretty design for a banner screen in which the cockscomb is treated in the plush stitch. Designs and Stamping. The question of making original designs for embroidery, while of importance, is too difficult for amateurs. Those who are naturally ingenious will be able to construct their own designs, or modify those already made to suit their own convenience. The method of getting the design stamped depends upon the nature and color of the material. For light material, the design may be first drawn or traced upon tissue-paper ; . next place a sheet of carbonized paper under the tissue- paper and upon the material, and go over the design with a sharp pencil or a dull needle, when it will be found trans- ferred to the fabric in minute dots of black. If carbonized paper is not to be had, make it, by slightly oiling one side of thick tissue-paper and scraping fine pencil dust upon the oiled surface, being careful to remove all the surplus of pen- cil dust with a soft rag. Where the design is to be transferred to a dark material, it must be done by pouncing. First draw the design upon thick paper, and then prick the outlines through the paper with a pin or needle, or if it be large, on a sewing-machine with an unthreaded needle; now place the design, face downward, and go over it with a pounce bag made of mus- lin and filled with starch, stamping powder, or pipe-clay powdered. Remove the pattern and touch up the design with a solution of pipe-clay or other coloring matter not in- j urious to the fabric. DESIGNS AND STAMPING. 241 In all cases, however, where it is practicable, the stamp- ing should be done by one who knows how, thus avoid- ing the annoyance and danger of damaging the material. Applique, or Cut- Work, — Has been divided into two kinds, in-laid and ooi-lald. Inlaid work consists in cut- ting the same pattern from two materials and fitting one into the other, much after the fashion of inlaid scroll-saw work, and fastening the inlaid part with embroidery silk. Onlaid work differs from the foregoing in this particular: The pattein is cut out from several stuffs, and then fastened upon another material with paste, aftei- which the edges are sewed down with silk. To those unacquainted with the work, it may be neces- sary to explain that the pattern, as prepared, is basted on the foundation to which it is to be applied, and all the edges of the colored felt pieces are caught down in button-hole or couching stitch with filling floss or embroidery silks of suit- able shades. Any lines inside the figures, such as the veins of leaves, are worked in stem stitch ; and small leaves, stems, etc., outside the figures, are worked in embroidery stitches or herring-bone stitch. The paper of the pattern is then torn away, which is facilitated by slightly moistening it, and the design remains on the foundation. The work is rapidly and easily done, and when the newer and more tasty designs are used, the effect is remarkably good. Drawn Woi^k — Consists in drawing out the threads of linen and working in patterns with fancy stitches. It is very popular, and elaborate designs are now made by this method, although the work is very trying to the eyes. Embroidery Frames — Are made something after the fashion of quilting frames. Care must be taken to stretch the material firmly and evenly. 16 Dl^AWN AND I^IBBON ^01^^- AN ANCIENT ART REVIVED.— THE SECRET OF OLD MONAS- TERIES.— EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWN WORK. —ILLUSTRATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF THE LATEST DESIGNS.— THE USE OF COLORED SILKS IN.TIIIS WORK. HE art of makiug drawn -work is by no means recent. In Europe it was known for cen- turies by monks only, and was given to the world after the breaking up of the monasteries, when ladies of the highest rank eagerlj' acquired the iirt. In its simplest form drawn work consists in drawing out threads of the fabric and working in ])ntterns with fancy stitches, the simplest form being Tkk IIem-Stitcii. It is made by hrst turning the hem the desired width, to mark the line in the body of the goods where the fii-st tiiread should be drawn. A number of threads are then 1242] OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. 243 drawn out, more or less in proportion to the fineness of the cloth, and the hem is turned to the outer edge of the drawn space and carefully basted down. The threads left after drawing out the filling are now to be caught up in clusters of four or more, next to the chain, as seen in Fig. 1, using fine cotton. Do the seam on both edges for Double Hem Stitch. The first of the illustrated patterns is made by hem- stitching the drawn space at the top and bottom. This leaves an effect of even rows of threads a little separated. The bunchas of four in tlie centre are drawn together by using the chain stitch. 244 RIBBON WORK. Another pattern can be made by chain-stitching only alternate bunches. The second pattern is made by introducing a waving line over and under the bunches of threads. Eepeat this waving line in returning and where the threads cross in the centre; finish with small figures in lace stitches. The uses to which drawn work may be put are varied. Towels, table-linen, bed-linen, and doylies are embellished ■with it. Colored silks may be introduced into this work with most brilliant effect. To prevent the silk from fading drop the skeins into boiling water for ten minutes. <-^^ -^Xit^C^ .< " ^^T^T]bbon7work Embroidering in silk or ribbon, consists in forming flowers and buds of the above named materials, which should be soft, as the etiect is richer than when a stiff ribbon or silk is used. To make open roses, cut the silk into small squares ; double each of these on the him once, which will form a triangle, then bring the three corneis together by gathering, in so doing you have formed a petals of which make a number. Then cut a small circular piece of buckram ui^on which sew the petals, beginning at the circumference and tilling in the centre with smaller petals. For the stamens of the flower, use chenille, the color used being appropriate to tlie llower. OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORXMENTS. 245 To make a bud, take a large petal, gather it through the centre, aad cover this gathering by euibroideriug over it with chenille. Also make seed cup and calyx with chenille. For the leaf, cut out a pattern the desired shape, and embroider on to it the chenille, using a different color of chenille for the mid -ribs. A pretty design is to cut the pattern of a basket and tack it on to a piece of large plush or satin, on which the design is to be worked ; lay over the pattern some batting, which will give it a raised appearance. For the covering of the basket use a piece of silk, and embroider on to it in gold bullion ; then fill the basket with flowers of ribbon work. Designs in ribbon work may be embroidered on plush or velvet and used to drape either a mantle piece or stand table. A very handsome banner may be made of a piece of satin, velvet or plush, and a spray of flowers embroidered in ribbon on it. 246 OUM HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Fig. 47' Tattkd Doylky. The tatted doyley shown in ouv ilhistration, Fig. 47, is so distinctly marked that it docs not need an exj)lanation to those skilled in vhe use of the shuttle. The tatting', which is com- posed of double and pearl stitches, should be worked as seen LINEN EMBROlOEliY 247 in tlie illustration, with No. 6 cotton, and the spider's web in No. 16. The design would be equally suitable for a baby's cap crown, or it might be u.sed for a flower stand mat. Linen Embkoidery. Fig. 48 is an illustration of a tidy made of the new style of embroidery on linen crash. Old ladies whose sisfht is fail- ing will find this very agreeable work. The stars should be worked in two shades of bright zephyr, while the division lines between the figures should be made of narrow black velvet, crossed with " herring-bone " stitch in gold-colored 248 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. silk. Almost all damask toweling is suitable for this work, but the unbleached gray and buff, covered' with stai's, diamonds, or butterflies, will be found most satisfactory. Shaker rockinof-chairs and hassocks cu.shioned with this em- broidery are quite fashionable and are really very handsome. x5*' . CxFI^PirRR Vlf. SOME ELEGANT DESIGNS. — EMBROIDERED ROCKING-CHAIR COVER. — A WORK-APRON. — DESIGNS FOR ELEGANT GLASS MIRRORS. — NEW STYLE OF SPLASHER. — BEAD EMBROID- ERED NEWS RACK. — HANDSOME TABLE COVER. — A PIANO SCARF IN PLUSH APPLIQUE WORK. o>»:o LEGANT ROCKING-CHAIR COVER. — The very ele- gant rocking-chair shown in Fig. 49 is uphol- stered in hair and covered with silk plush of the peculiar shade called " drakasneck," a sort of bluish-green of a deep, rich shade, which forms a most exquisite background for the sprays of wild rose so perfectly embroidered on the seat and back in silk filoselle, and the leaves having that tinge of brown and red mingled with dull green so often seen in the growing bush. The arms and front of the chair are finished with silk gimp to match, and silk fringe of the same shade as the plush, re- lieved by pink silk double ruffs at intervals. The back is covered with pink plush, and the whole forms a most beau- tiful chair and one that will not be ruined by reasonable use. [249] 250 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. A PR?yrTY Work-Apron. A pretty little work-apron is shown in Fig. 50, made of a yard of pongee silk, 18 inches wide, embroidered in etching silk, the design being that old conundrum of " How doth the little busy bee Improve each shining hour?" Fig- 50- Another design often used instead, represents a little girl plucking the petals of a daisy, with the words "I do n't care what the daisies say, I know I'll be married some fine day. " After the embroidery is done, a hem is turned all around and neatly hemstitched, the low«'r end turned up to form a locket, and the apron finished with bows of silk ribbon. DESIGN FOB HAIB RECEIVER. 251 They will wash perfectly, and make charming presents for girls. f^'E- 5 ■ Hair Receiver, Fig. 51 is a novel and pretty hair and hair-pin receiver, made of No. 12 satin ribbon of two colors interwoven in a 252 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. sort of checker-board pattern, a-s seen in the engravmg. A piece of card-board in the center forms a partition, on one side of which is a crocheted cushion of split zephyr to receive the hair-pins, the other side being left as a hair receiver. The whole is bound with satin and finished at the upper edge with quilled ribbon, as seen in the illustration. The fringe seen just below the quilled ribbon is made by fringing about two inches of the ends of the ribbons. Glass Mirrors. An elegant addition to almost any room is one of the beveled glass mirrors shown in Figs. 52 and 53. The frame is of pine or whitewood and covered with silk plush embroid- ered with arasene or with silk floss, arasene being much the- best as the colors are better and the general effect more rich. The cuts show two very ditFerent designs, — one a vine of wild clematis, and the other a spray of dogwood ; the former worked on deep Indian-red plush, and the latter on a very- dark olive-gi'oen. They can be made of various sizes, but 10x10 or 12x12 for the glass is generally preferred. They are quite different in appearance from the painted frames so abundant in the stores, and which are usually very poor specimens of amateur art. > '.. ^f' A New Style Splasher. Splashers are not very new, but the one shown in Fig. 54 is so far superior to the ordinary splasher as to merit descrip- tion. It is made expressly for the purpose, being woven with a band of open-work all around and a sewed fringe on the four sides. The material is linen momie cloth. Along the upper edge at the back, five loops of tape are sewed, Fig. 52. ^^g- 55. DESIGN FOB SPLASHER. 253 through which a brass or wooden rod is passed and secured to the wall by brass screw-eyes. One end of the rod is made to slip off so that the splasher is easily removed to be Fig. 54- washed, and replaced again without the usual damage to the wall by tacking. The designs on them are also new and pretty. A News Rack. Fig. 55 is a news rack in bead embroidery. The frame is of gilded wood, and the foundation for the embroidery is of deep maroon silk plush. The design of maple leaves is embroidered in metal beads in various shades of olive-green and brown, red-brown and yellow. The work is done very much the same as crewel work, a silk thread being used, and the beads strung on four or five at a time to form a long or short stitch and of such colors as required. The beads can be procured of every color. ■2o4- OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Three-Cornered Table. Fif^. 56 represents a three-coi'nered table, the frame of which is of gilded wood. The tfjp is covered with shaded blue plush, ornamented with a spray of wild clematis, em- broidered in beads, the Bowel's in steel, and the leaves in cut-gold. The sides are draped with shaded blue plush, Fig. 56. caught up in the eentei- of each side by a large silk pompon from which depend soft silk ball tassels. Long "horse-tail " tassels of twisted silk of a Terra Cotta shade, are hung at each corner. A larofe bow of shaded satin ribbon, tied taste- fully at one corner where the tlower stems begin, completes this very pretty table. DESIGN FOR PIANO SCARF. 255 Appliqcje Piano Scarf. Fig. 57 is a piano scarf for an upright in the new Mo- saic embroidery, or plush applique work. The ground is of lava gray plush and the design of autumn leaves is cut out of a variety of shades of plush, each half leaf being a sepa- rate piece and different shade. The pieces of plush are first pasted down on a foundation of crinoline, and when dry, cut out neatly with very sharp scissors and gummed to the plush foundation. The edges are then sewed down firmly with silk of the same shades as the plushes. The neglect of this sewing down is what has caused many to regard Mosaic work as lacking in durability ; but if the edges are well sewed down they will not fray or ravel out. After sewing down, the edges are concealed by a gold or tinsel cord caught down in couching stitches. A few stitches of chenille of darker shade than the plush it is used on, are added to show the veining of the leaves. A very pretty way of adjusting the scarf is to bring up the embroidered end, throAving it over from the back, and letting it hang over the front of the piano. The v/ork is very easily and quickly done with the ex- ception of the preparation of the pattern, which requires a variety of odd shades of plush not easily obtained by the amateur, and without which the work loses much of its beauty. The patterns, however, can be procured already prepared on crinoline at any of the first-class fancy-work establishments in most of the large cities. They can be easily transferred to any foundation by moistening the crinoline to soften the gum. A handsome table scarf in " darned work " is shown in 056 OIK HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Fig. 57- DESIGN FOE TABLE SCARF. 257 Fig. 58. The body of the scarf is of ecru plush. The or»a- iiientation is of alternate squares of ecru satin, darned in a geometric pattern in colored embroidery silk in a variety of Fig. 58. stitches, and squares of old blue plush, with a small spray embroidered in gold and steel beads. The ends are finished with silk fringe and four large tassels to correspond with tl^ satin and plush. 17 258 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. It is impossible in an engraving- to do justice to this woi'k, the rich, deep tints of which plush alone is capable of exhibiting, being quite lost when represented by printer's ink. Some of the specimens are exquisite, and by many would be preferred to the most elaborate embroidery. (IxMi^F^a^KK ^Ifl. HANGINGS FOR DOORS, HALLS, AND WINDOWS. — HOW TO MAKE THEM, AND OF WHAT TO MAKE THEM. — ELEGANT EFFECTS AT SMALL COST. — HOW TO USE THE ODDS AND ENDS IN RENDERING THE HOUSE MORE BEAUTIFUL. — COST OF MATERIALS. o>Qeen, claw-footed "breeches," a .sort of butfet and stout- backed old chairs in mahogany. Once upon a time the garret of one of the old Dutch houses in Albany gave up its own, and the rush of curiosity seekers was immense. The South is now considered a promising field for the old furni- ture buyer. We have seen a handsome, old-fashioned mahogany sideboard brought from thei-e, which was of use and beauty far beyond the narrow, " high shouldered " things we are accustomed to see. Be Original! It is a pity that every man and woman in furnishing a house cannot work after tlie fa CURTAINS. — MATERIALS TO USE, AND HOW TO CON- STRUCT. — AN ELEGANT SOFA PILLOW. — A NEW AP- PLIQUE DESIGN. — LACE LAMBREQUIN. oXKc AMBREQUIN AND CURTAINS.— The illus- tration is so plain that most ladies can easily construct the set with but few suggestions. The materials may be readily suited to the means and ^ taste of the OAvner. The lambrequin is com- posed of three pieces, their sizes, of course, being- determined by th(; window. Each of the side pieces has three plaits turning inw^ard, and the center piece three plaits running cross-wise. The trimmings may be put on to suit the taste, the heaviei" and richer the material, the better the effect. The curtains may be canton flannel trimmed with lace, or of any material harmoniz- ing with the lambrequin. Sofa Pillow. The material for this really elegant piece should be of good quality. The embroidery is worked in the Janina stitch, and shows off to most excellent advantage. The fol- lowmg colors look quite well, and Ave recommend the com- bination here suggested : Flowers, blue silk ; stamens, yellow and red; large leaves, olive green ; and wood, brown. The st<^;ms, small leaves, and straight lines of the border, are worked wnth golden-brown silk in three shades, the stems being darker. The buds are worked in violet and cream-colored silk, and the leaves near them in light green. Edge the top with heavy cord, and finish the [282] CURTAINS AND LAMBh'EQUIAS. 28:^. corners with tassels. Thu material may be sonic dark clotli, suitable to the taste and ^jurse of the possessoi-. Curtain and Lannbrequm. ppcujue De- sign for Mantel or Windo'w. — This design wouhl be Y&vy elegant if made of p/ash, which is now the most populai' ma- terial. It may, how- ever, be worked in silk, felt, or flannel ; in eith(^r case, cui out your pansies from velvet. Thia flower has so many hues, colors, and shades, that odd bits of material, as dark red, purple, white, old gold, ma- roon,— in fact, any tint, — may easily be worked in with most excellent ef- fect, two shades be- ing used for each flower. The leaves and buds are made of green, and the stems of shaded green. When com- pleted, press the work on the wrong side, lining it with some suitable heavy material. Work the stems in vine chain stitch. For richness of eflect, we do not think this design is surpassed. Directions for ap- plique work are given on page 241. T?ie Lace Lambrequin, illustrated opposite page 284, is elegant, and when the other drapery is of lace, it is A^ery 284 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Pillow in Janina Stitch. Applique appropriate. These 1am- 1 )iv(juins can be found at the stores ready made, with nothing to do but fasten them to the cor- nice, which should be made to stand out so as to hold the lambre- quin clear of the cur tains. The variety of designs is almost infin- ite, those with fern leaves being preferred. mJiMM.:^mM.'M -i^WW. (iBI^AMIGS AND €T6HING. PAINTING VASES AND PLAQUES IN OIL COLORS WITHOUT "FIRING"— FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE WORK.— HOW TO SECURE GOOD EFFECTS IN COLORING.— ETCHING WITH INK, A NEW AND USEFUL ART.— BEAUTIFUL WORK FOR SKILLFUL HANDS. HE art of painting on China with Mineral Colors and then "firing" is beyond question the best method of preserving the colors, but as kilns for firing can be supported in none but the largest cities, the expense and risk attendant upon the transportation and firing of pieces which have cost weeks of patient effort, render the general practice of the method impracticable. However, within a very recent period, the practice of painting with oil colors on vases, pla,ques, jars, etc , in imitation of fired wares, has become popular, and there are no obstacles to prevent its general introduction. The ware is called [285] 586 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Terraline. The articles are ready for the application of paints, var- nishes and enamel, and come either plain or with buds, vines and flowers in relief. They can be purchased of local dealers in artist's mater- ials, or of J. J. West, Wabash Avenue, Chicago. Directions. The following hints will aid the beginner, and experience ■will teach the earnest student. Good fresh oil colors are used in the same manner as for painting on canvas. Fine artist brushes of bristle and red sable are used. Olean them carefully after using, with soap and warm water. A solid uniform color on the body of the vase or plaque should be painted with two coats of paint. For the first coat prepare on the palette a sufficient quantity of paint, of the desired tint or color, to cover the whole body of the CERAMICS AND ETCHINGS. 287 Tase or plaque ; then mix the paint in a small cup with a preparation composed of 6 parts Turpentine, 3 parts of Siccatif de Harlem, 1 part Linseed Oil; allow the first coat to become thoroughly dry before putting on the second coat. For the second coat, prepare the desired tint or color on the palette in sufficient quantity to cover the whole body of the vase or plaque, and in a small cup or saucer, have a mixture composed of 3 parts Siccatif and 1 part Linseed Oil ; dip the brush from time to time in the mixture, and use with the oil color when painting. The amateur will follow nature's coloring of the leaves and flowers, but not too closely ; a little exercise of the imagination, as regards coloring, will enhance the effect. Leaves, flowers and blossoms, in high relief, are an ex- tremely handsome and very desirable decoration for plaques and vases. The leaves may be painted either a rich yellow- green, or a rich blue-green ; the flowers may be painted either white, canary, salmon, pink, carmine, bright crimson, dark cHmson, violet, lilac, purple, orange, maroon or variegated with white and either of these colors. The petal is usually a lighter tint at the center than at the outer edge ; the stamens are a ffoldeu-vellow color. 288 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. A very fine result is obtained by painting the back- ground of the vase or plaque as a distant landscape, either Oriental, European or American. One of the richest lookiiig and most effective back- grounds for plaques is obtained by starting with a light nialiogany color, then shading and blending it into a dark mahogany color, and from that into a deep green. The colors to be used are Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, Van- dyke Brown, Dark Zinnober Green. The work is finished with varnish, or two coats of amber enamel. Amber Enamel is a valuable preparation of real Amber, A,nd produces the most durable, brilliant, hard glaze, quite similar in appearance to pottery glaze. ETCHINGS OX LINEN. 289 After the enameling is completed and the enamel is quite dry, a novel and pleasing effect may be produced by ti})ping the edges of some of the leaves or flowers with gold paiut or silver paint, or by lighting up the background with touches, flashes, shadings, or mottlings of gold paint or silver paint ; or the whole background without any previous painting or enameling may be covered with gold or silver paint ; or the background may be painted in oil colors and the leaves and flowers done in gold or silver. Be careful not to allow dust to settle on the vase or plaque while painting or enameling, or while the paint or enamel is drying. GTCHINGS on lilNEN. "^^ This favorite mode of decoration may be better known by the term "Etchings on Linen." As "etching" implies corrosion by acid — while no acid is used either in the pre- paration or application of the inks used in this work — we think the term " Sketching " more appropriate. The sketch- ing is done with a pen and indelible ink, upon linen or satin jean. First-class ink and good fine pointed pens are neces- sary. For fine linen use Gillott's Maping Pen, No. 291. In sketching on linen, it is necessary to prepare the sur- face to receive the ink. A kind of sizing is applied. This sizing may be a rather thin solution of Gum Arabic. The white of an egg and water well beaten together is often used. Apply the sizing to the side to be etched upon, either with brush, sponge, or soft rag. After it is dry, press out with a moderately hot iron. The fabrics must be entirely free from the startchy substance usually found in linen. Draw the linen smoothly over a board and secure with 290 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. drawing pins or thumb tacks. The design to be sketched sliould be placed between the board and the linen. The ink must be applied lightly and kept on the surface. Broad lines are made by several light strokes of the pen, not by one heavy stroke, After the decoration is completed, allow at least an hour to dry in the sun. Bear in mind that the longer the design is exposed to the sun, the deeper jet the color will be. By exposing some parts longer than others, very pretty shades may be produced. When complete, lay the design flat in a bowl of hot water, let it remain a few moments until the sizing or any excess of ink has left the cloth, when it may be thoroughly rinsed, dried and ironed. In using satin jean, be careful to sketch across the grain of the material to avoid a spluttering of the pen. Many articles of home adornment may thus be made. Dessert doylies are often decorated by this art. They should be about eight inches square, the edges finished by fringing the material, or by a line of hem stitcli or drawn work. These doylies are used at table for putting glasses upon during dessert ; they are also placed underneath fin- ger bowls. Only a slight knowledge of diawing is required to enable one to sketch successfully on linen. The most suitable designs are those in outline, which any one can trace from numerous illustrations found in magazines, comical " situations" taken from Puck, subjects from ''Baby-land," '' Kate Greenaway Designs," -'The Art Amateur," and many other sources, which may be suggested by those given. Especial inks, in various colors, and the sizing required for sketching the designs may be obtained by addressing, Mr. F. A. Whiting, Boston, Mass. KENSINGTON PAINTING. 291 Kensington Painting, so called because it is an imitation of the silk embroideries done with the needle at the Ken- sington School of Arts, is not by any means merely the easy fancy work which some suppose it to be, but requires an intimate knowledge of oil paints, shading, and nicety of touch. As in all handiwork, whether it be with brush, pen or needle, poor and tawdry work may be produced, but there have been exquisite pieces of Kensington Painting done by careful workers, which, at a very short distance, could scarcely be distinguished from the needle work it is intended to represent. All written explanation of artistic work must necessarily fall short of the actual teaching, but the follow- ing rules, if carefully adhered to, must give a fair idea of the modus operandi. The Tube Paints, which are used for canvas work, are also employed for needle painting. Use them just as they come from the tubes, as the purer the paint the easier it is to work with, besides giving a heavier appearance to the whole. Sometimes, when the paint seems to dry, moisten with a drop of turpentine or linseed oil. Use a broad- bladed knife for the paints, as it is more convenient than a palette. Hold the handle in the left hand, with the sharj^ edge of the knife towards you. Two pens, long-pointed as possible, one smaller than the other for the more delicate 292 OUR HOMES AND TITETR ADORNMENTS. work ol' finishing off; a camel's hair brush, No. 5, cut down or square off until it is stumpy or cannot be rolled to a point; a darning needle, No. 18 or 20, and a moderately fine sewing needle, with the eye-point stuck in a pencil or "brush handle to make it firm. Xow, sujipose we have a siway V of white daisies and a fern sketch- ed on a piece of black velvet. First stretch the velvet (the pile must not be too long nor thick,) on a smooth bit of board such, as goods are rolled on in the stores, use very small tacks or headless pins "for this purpose ; leave no wrinkles in the velvet, and work down the velvet pile as much as possi- ble. For the white of the daisies, put upon the knife as much zinc paint as will complete the flowers. With the coarse pen, holding the hollow part from you, slice off a small lump of paint from the whole and work it from side to side of the pen, on the knife, till well worked and soft; then draw the point of the pen through the paint sideways, with the hollow from you, until there is a strip of paint in the narrow part to the point of the pen. Xow begin at the top of the flower, stick the pen into the pile of the velvet, just as you would put the ink on paper, and leave the paint as near the top of the leaf as possible. Then, with the fine pen, begin at the top and stroke the paint down, oj^ening the nibs of the pen' wide in »;c N the furnishing of bed-rooms, the individuahty of the housewife asserts itself very strongly. When it is remembered that from one-fourth to one-third of our time is spent in our bed- rooms, no argument is necessary to prove that- it should be rendered the most pleasant. Of course the bed itself is the principal feature. Too much is apt to be expended upon the bed- stead. More attention should be paid to the springs and mattresses. It is an easy matter from among the multitude of patterns to secure easy and durable springs at reasona})le cost. The best mattress is made of hair; for health, the common husk mattress, with wool or cotton top, equals the hair, and is, moreover, very cheap. Avoid high beds; who does not remember the beds of our grandfathers, requiring the aid of a treacherous chair to get intxD them ? [295] 996 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. The Dressing Bureau. Where it can bo afforded, a bureau Is very desirable; it should be of size corresponding witli the size of the room. Unless there is a good closet or a table with drawers, the bu- reau is almost a necessity. Marble tops are to be con- demned where articles of glass or fine china come in contact witli tliem. Fig. 71. Fig. 73. BEDSTEAD AND DRAPERY. 297 A recent writer on this matter says of the bed-room table: " Quite an inexpensive one may be made from a dry- goods box three feet high, four wide, and two and a half feet deep, with four blocks of wood, one inch thick and four inches square, nailed beneath each corner, to which casters are fastened. The box is placed with open side out, and fitted with a convenient shelf or two. The whole interior should be neatly jDapered. " On the top at the back, one or two small boxes may be fastened, and the entire top covered with oil-cloth or other suitable material, and the front may be hung with drapery concealing the inside shelves. Another plan would be to sand-paper the outside and finish in shellac varnish. Much ingenuity can be displayed and money saved, by watching the fashion and other journals and carrying out their susforestions." *«30^ Bedstead and Drapeky. Our illustration presents a very neat bedstead and drapery. The hangings are of muslin and net, worked in satin and slanting stitch, over-cast at the edges. The green quilted siJk counterpane is laid inside a fine linen case, embroidered around the edges and buttoned over the quilt as shown. The pillow is trimmed with lace insertion and a double muslin frill, and embroidered at the corners, where it is also ornamented with a bow of colored ribbon. At the foot of the bed is a second cover of chintz or dimity, also trimmed with lace or frills. Brackets made with the scroll-saw can be used to advantage to hold books, curiosities, china, etc. The toilet- table or wash-stand affords an excellent chance for the dis- 298 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. play of taste, the indispensable splasher and towel-rack may be articles of home manufacture, while a neat-figured damask towel will answer quite well for a marble top. In bed-rooms, where space must be economized, the Fig. 72. new style wardrobe and bedstead combined, may be used to excellent advantage. Our illustration gives all necessary details. It will be seen that the wardrobe is located behind the head of the bedstead. At each end is a door opening into the wardrobe, and hooks are attached to a piece which slides in and out. DRAPERY AND TOILET-STAND. 299 Two drawers for linen are placed in the bottom of the wardrobe, and the whole space is nearly, if not quite, as capacious as a bureau or separate wardrobe. The doors close tightly so as to prevent dust from entering. Large pictures are out of place in a bed-room. A few engravings, — nothing of the " death-bed-of- Washington style," — with photographs of a few friends, are very appro- priate. The color of carpet and wall-paper should not be too dark, and the drapings of the windows should be such as to admit the sunlight freely. Cane or leather seated chairs are sold at such rates that most people can afford them. The easy rocker seems almost indispensable, especially in event of sickness in the household. Our ideal bed-room is among the best, if not the best, room in the house, except, perhaps, the family sitting- room. Dkapery for Toilet-Stand. On the opposite page we give an illustration showing how the commonest and plainest bed-room may be rendered beautiful and attractive by the aid of a little taste and cheap material. The toilet-stand may be a cheap table, with a shelf erected on the top for toilet articles, and a bracket higher up for perfume articles, etc. Oil-cloth of any desired color may cover the table, cut in any shape to suit the fancy, the edges being bound with braid to correspond. The shelves and brackets may be covered to correspond with the table, and the w^hole draped with muslin or other material, edged with lace, or trimmed to suit the 300 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. taste, or in harmony with the other adornments of the room. Shelves may be made under the table, and a curtain of coarser material suspended from its edt^e.r Iff. WINDOW GARDENING. — HOW TO HAVE FLOWERS ALL WINTER. — BEST VARIETIES FOR WINTER USE. — HOW TO CARE FOR THE FLOWERS. — THEIR ARRANGEMENT IN THE WINDOW. N addition to what has been said in the chapters on the culture of flowers, it is thought proper to add a few hints upon the subject of window gardening. There are but few plants that will not thrive in-doors under proper conditions of light and tem- perature. A window which admits much light by day should be selected, and as plants must have their periods of sleep, provision should be made for shutting off the bright glare of the lamp at night. A few plants, well cared for, look better than a window full of plants so closely crowded as to cause them to grow spindling and turn yellow. Regarding soil, the reader is referred to other chapters in this work ; but it is well to state that the pots for window plants should be filled to the depth of one or more inches with charcoal, to assist m drainage and to keep the soil sweet. [327] 328 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Care should be used in watering, as plants are easily " drowned out." If during a gentle, warm shower the plants can be so placed as to receive it, they will be all the better for it. They should generally be watered once a day with a watering-pot, — never poured on, — the water being about the temperature of the room. The morning is, perhaps, the best time for watering, and it never should be done while the sun shines upon the plants. Plants that have flowered all the summer cannot be ex- pected to continue the process during the winter, as they must have a period of rest before they can mature. Those WINDOW GARDENING. 329 which are wanted for flowering in winter, must be started late in the summer from seeds or cuttings, or if started earlier they must be set away or laid down till autumn. The bulbous plants for winter use should be laid down in the shade in May, and given no water till September, when they may be repotted, and will become active in a few weeks. Cuttings for winter may be potted in midsummer. Monthly roses, geraniums, fuchsias, heliotropes, callas, be- Fig. 76. gonias ; and for climbers, the cypress- vine, nasturtium, and ivy, are the planis that require the least trouble and succeed best. For supporting the pots, a window box is the cheapest; it can be lined with zinc, and filled in around the pots with moss, if desirable. A strong wire stand, set on castors, is 330 OUR BOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. very handy, as it can be moved around, and is moreover ornamental. The illustrations given in this department are intended to suggest the methods that may be employed in window gardening, and it is not deemed necessary to enter into a lengthy description of them. On page 329 is illustrated a bay-window. Below is given a good plan where the bay- Fig. 77- window is wanting, and drops a hint as to how an ivy may be concealed behind a mirror, with its graceful loops hang- ing down on each side, and a small portion j ust peeping into the glass. The cut on page 331 shows how the scroll-saw may be employed in window gardening. The lambrequin at the top is made of wood, decorated with tlie scroll-saw. WIN DO \V G A JiDEN ING. :i:U Ficr. 78. 332 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Wo liave seen shrubs employed with excellent results, in making a background for the more showy plants; and in one instance a species of inaple, eight feet high, in full leaf in midwinter, was perhaps the most admired of the whole •collection. Of course the arrangement of plants in a window or cabinet must depend in a great measure upon the taste of the possessor; but excellent effects can be produced almost anywhere with small-leafed ivy, madeira-vine, smilax, and other hardy climbers, set off by a few showy geraniums, and similar flowers. One of the principal reasons why flowers bought on the streets or at the markets prove so unsatisfactory, is because they are placed in small pots to save room, in the damp pits where they are grown, and when they come to be trans- ferred to the sitting-room, or balcony, the earth soon bakes, and the flower-buds fall off" without opening. If the common flower-pots in which the plants are grow- ing be placed inside ornamental pots a few sizes larger, and the intermediate space be stufled with wet moss, the closing up and fading can generally be prevented. A still better plan is to arrange a window box to receive the pots ; this should be from seven to ten inches deep, filled with earth or moss, and lined with zinc. (!1fia.f^^rr ¥V. PRESERVING NATURAL FLOWERS. — AN ART WORTH KNOW- ING. — HOW TO KEEP NATURAL FLOWERS FOR A LONG TIME. — PRESERVING BY THE SAND PROCESS. — THE -SUL- PHUR PROCESS. — PRESERVING BRIDAL AND FUNERAL FLOWERS. — AN ELEGANT ART. — ARRANGEMENT OF FLOW- ERS. HE art of preserving flowers in their natural state has long been known, but the procesii seems to have been forgotten until the increas- ing demand for bouquets brought it to the minds of the people of Germany. There are two ways of preserving flowers. The one used almost ex- clusively in Germany, and, we think, the easier method, is as follows: — The Sand Process. Procure a very fine quality of sand, wash it until all the particles of clay are dissolved, and dry it well by placing it on a board set slanting to allow the water to run ofi! Bake it thoroughly; and while it is warm, take an ounce of mutton tallow to twelve pounds of sand ; scrape the tallow and scatter it over the sand, stirring it in as it melts. Do not neglect this; for the tallow prevents the [333] a:u OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. iiand from sticking to the flowers. Take a cigar-box or some other suitable box, and cut several holes through the bot- t<^ni, over which paste paper to keep the sand from escaping. Sift sand into the bottom of the box until it is about half an inch deep, using a fine sieve. Upon this carefully place a layer of flowers, and sift in sand enough to cover them. Jar tlie lx)x a little with the hand to settle the sand into and ai'ound the flowers. Put in more flowers, and cover them with sand as before, continuing the operation until the box is full. Place the cover in tighi, and put the box in a place where it will be kept at a steady U'mperature of about 80°. In about four days, if kept at the proper temperature, the flowers will be dry, and can be removed by puncturing the paper placed over the holes cut through the bottom of the box, and allowing the sand to run out. At first the flowers will be too brittle to be handled, and the box should be left in a damp place for a few hours, when the flowere will be ready for use. The Sulphur Process. The other process alluded to is the preservation of fl.owers by the agency of sulpliTU- fumes. Procure a box that can be made air-tight (one in which tea has been packed will do); then inside the box on opposite sides, near the top, fasten small stri])s of wood, and place rods across upon which to hang the bunches of flowers. For ventilation, bore a hole in one side near the bottom, into which fit a plug closely; arrange the flowei-s in loose clusters of from three to ten, according to size, placing a variety of flowers in each cluster. Hang the bunches on the rods so that they will not touch OTK^ another, and in the bott4)m of the box place a metal pan PRESEBVING FLOWERS. 335 containing a small shovelful of livo coals. Spread out the coals, and sprinkle over them about three ounces of pulver- ized sulphur ; then place the lid on securely, and the process is commenced. Open the hole in the side for a few minutes, until you see the fumes rising, but no flame ; then close the opening, throw a piece of heavy carpet over the box, and leave it for a day. Upon examination, the flowers will be found jx^rfect in form, but bleached almost white. Expose them to the air in a dry place, and they will soon regain their color, l)ut will be of a lighter shade than before bleaching. The lx)x must be kept absolutely air-tight after the fumes begin to rise, and it is better to paste cloth over the edges and corners to make it certain that no air can pass through. Keep the box in a dry room. Preserving Bridal and Funeral Flowers. Every bride desires to keep the flowers she wore on her wedding day, and all desire to keep the wreath that lay on the breast of some dear departed one. The art of preserving thase mementos has been kept secret, only a few professional florists knowing the process. It is simple enough, and we give it. The Paraffine Process. Let the flowers be fresh and firm, and the color light. Green leaves cannot be treated; hence must be left off". Take the finest quality of parafiine, and melt it by placing it in a cup .set in boiling water. Keep the paraffine in a liquid state by means of the warm water, and dip the flowers into it, being careful that the paraffine is not hot enough to cook them Do the work as quickly as po&sible. 336 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADOBNMENTIS. so as to make a very thin coating on the flowers. To pre- serve green leaves, coat them with green wax, or add greeu powder paint to the parafRne. In pi'eserving Howers, it should be observed that those with a thick, full corolla, such as tulips, lilies, etc., are not well adapted to this purpose. When the preserving process is eompleted, the flowers should be tastefully arranged, and placed where they will be free from Just. Glass globes or bell glasses are excellent, and if a few bleached ferns form the background, the effect will be pretty. In arranging flowers of any kind, be careful not to place together those of tints which do not blend; as scarlets with pinks, blues with purples, etc. An intelligent under- standing of the harmony of colors will enable any one to, arrange a very few and very common flowers so as to pro- duce excellent effects. Crystalizing Grass. Take one pound of alum and dissolve it in one quart of rain-water. Tie up bunches of feathery grasses, wild rye, oats, bearded wheat, etc., loosely, and suspend them over a tub. Heat the alum-water, and pour it over them very slowly until every cluster is thoroughly saturated. Leave the bur ^hes to dry over night, when every point will sparkle with crystals. Should the process fail, add more alum, and the next application will succeed. These grasses make very ornamental winter boquets. -^^^m^^^^ ■t^ [337] A bunch of sumach, shining bright. And a stag-horn, declc the wall. With a string of birds'-eggs, blue and white, Beneath. — Alice Caky, in The Settler's Chkistmas Evb. (!lH:i\F»a^R^ I. BRUSH AND PIGMENT. — PAINTING IN OIL AND WATER COLORS. — FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH. — PANEL PAINTING. — • PAINTING PLAQUES AND VASES. — AN ELEGANT ART. — BEAUTIFYING THE HOME. — A NEW WARE FOR PAINTING. — OIL COLORS ON SILK, SATIN, AND PLUSH.— WATER COL- ORS. — BOWL PAINTING. — »oj»co« F late years there has been a very great advance in the use of oil and water colors in interior dec- orations. Many ladies have turned their atten- tion to painting panels, screens, and plaques for adorning their own houses, and some have ac- complished most satisfactory results in painting on china. The following pages give the neces- sary instructions for the amateur who wishes to try her skill in this elegant art. TJie materials necessary are very few, render- ing the work less difficult than it seems, and at the same time less costly. A few camel's-hair brushes, — some fine, others coarse, — a tile, a plate, or a piece of window glass to mix the paints on, a small vessel to hold turpentine, and a few tubes of oil-colors, to be had at any paint store, are tlie requisite materials. Some knowledge of drawing is necessary, so that the design to be painted may be outlined on the material with a pencil. Unless the person is skillful [339] 340 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. in this, the outline should be drawn once or twice on paper before it is traced upon the material. No amateur should be ambitious to undertake difficult and elaborate designs at the outset. Let the advancement be easy. Take, for the first effort, a simple subject requir- ing only two or three tints. Flowers are best for beginners. Patience and continued practice will teach the pupil how to meet the difficulties in the use of brushes, colors, etc. In handling the brush, avoid "dabbling," and accom- plish as much as possible at a single stroke. It is hardly necessary to say that the tints are better if a brush is pro- vided for each color, but by careful cleaning the same brush may be used for several colors. In oil-colors, it is a good plan to squeeze the paint from the tube on blotting paper, - so that the surplus oil may be absorbed; otherwise there is a risk of staining. If the paint then becomes too dry, tur- pentine should be used to thin it, at the same time causing it to dry more quickly. Panel Painting. Panels of doors, or simply oblong wall-panels of well seasoned wood, are now painted in oil-coloi-s. The oblong panels look well hung upon the wall, or sot upon an easel, a shelf, a cabinet, or the mantel. The materials are the ordinary tube oil-colors, ca-mel's hair or sable brushes of several sizes, a bristle brush for l^ackgrounds, and a hand rest. It should be remembered that panels are not pictures in the true sense, but a part of a picture, of which the room itself is the whole. The background, if the wood is not left its natural color, should be soft mottled blue, green, or gray, toned a little with warmer colors, a fleck, of white here and there being very admissible. PANEL PAINTING. 341 For Subjects, flowers painted in natural colors are most popular. Peach and apple blossoms, on drooping boughs, sprays of dogwood, or anything which suits the fancy, may be chosen. One author, who seems to appreciate the plant, recommends the hop-vine, and it really seems capable •of excellent treatment, especially on door panels. Other sub- jects may be taken; as a sketch of a sailing vessel, supported by the branches of a piece of coral, the latter being painted a light pink; swallows skimming over a small lake; or a mischievous robin perched on a bough of ripe cherries. The beginner should attempt only the simplest subjects. Painting Plaques. The decoration of plaques and vases is a very elegant and popular employment for ladies, and is rapidly growing in favor. Two methods are used, one in which the plaques are painted and the painting is burned in, the other simply requires the painting without the burning. The same sug- gestions also apply to vases. Plaques for ordinary oil-colors are made of wood, paper Tnache, china, and porcelain, costing from fifteen cents for ifvood, to two or three dollars and even higher for porcelain, paper Tnache being the favorite. The paints and brushes are the same as are used for panel painting, except where the work is done on china, for "firing," when Lacroix's En- amel, or other mineral colors, must be used. The sizes most used are from twelve to sixteen inches in diameter. For a background the whole plaque may be painted in graduated tint:: of sage green, blue, or brown; or it may be left the natural color, just as the design requires. The Designs. — In the selection of designs, the field is very wide, and ranges from a single spi-ay of apple blossoms to 342 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. animals, portraits, and landscapes. The picture should cover the plaque, not solidly, but the whole surface should be util- ized and the design well balanced. Sometimes a center-piece is painted, with a tasty border. Very many persons wDl be at a loss to make their own designs, and to such, the sug- gestions and designs furnished by the Art Amateur, a monthly Art Journal published in New York, will be of great use. Others need but a slight hint from which to form a very good sketch, making the details to suit their fancy. A very attractive picture would be a few stalks of ripe wheat, with a mouse perched upon one of tlie stalks ; a faint attempt at a landscape, with grass and mushiooms in the background, and a pale moon in the distance. Paint the mouse gray ; wheat, yellow ; grass, gi-een ; mushrooms, gray on top and stems, under surface .striped with black ; and sky, blue. Another good design is a vase of gold fish, with a young chicken near, and a few stems of grass rising from behind the vase. Paint the globe a light gray, and shade with a dark gray ; fish, capucine red shaded with the same ; chicken, yellow with shading of darker color of same; plants, green. Sprays of flowers with birds are not only very easily painted^ but very popular. Imitation Barbatin or Lamoges Ware. A new material for oil-c»lors has recently made its ap- pearance. It is clay modeled into the forms of vases and jars, upon the surface of which flowers are molded in full re- lief, ^his ware is intended, when painted and varnished, to represent the celebrated " Barbatin" or " Lamoges" ware. The ordinary tube coloi-s are used, and the taste of the decorator will be taxed to its utmost in the selection and blending of colors. The vases should be given some warm IMITATION BARBATIN WARE. 343 color in lights and shades, or what would be called mottled, and the flowers should be painted natural colors. For the vase, a shaded deep green, blue, or brown, would be appropriate. The varnish, of course, should be white or nearly so, as otherwise the brilliancy of the colors would be marred. To those who have not means to own the burned wares, this commends itself, and it is destined to be very popular, imi- tating, as it does, the famous and costly French wares. The vases are sold at first-class art and picture stores. Silk, Satin, and Plush. These three materials are sometimes painted on for ban- ners, panels, and screens. The materials for use are the same as have been spoken of, with the addition of ox gall spread over the designs, on silk or satin, before the painting is begun. The highest general color is applied first, in painting these fabrics, and the strokes of the brush should be parallel to the rib of the silk, that is, not across the woof. Put in the deepest shades last. There is one difficulty in this work, and that is the spreading of the oil in the paint. To prevent this, squeeze out the tube colors upon blotting paper, and let it absorb the oil. If the oil should then spread, rub the wrong side of the goods with coke magnesia, to absorb it; and when absorbed, brush off the powder. The material should be stretched upon a drawing-board by means of tacks, r.nd the outline drawn upon the goods with a lead pencil, or with blue or red stamp- ing paper. While engaged upon the design, protect the fab- ric from soiling as much as possible, with a sheet of paper. Plush is the richest of all materials for oil-colors. A stiff brush of bristle is necessary to stamp in the colors. Mirrors with plush frames painted with sprays of flowers instead of embroidery are much admired. Designs on plush are out- lined with a brush and flake white. 344 OUR HOMES AND THEIR AUOIiSMEMS. Water Colors. — Buy only the very best, from responsi- ble dealers. Sometimes two or three coatings of color must be applied to satin and silk before the color takes on the proper tint. Chinese white is almost universally used in toning colors and putting in the lighter tints. Mix the white with the color to be toned, or apply it to the fabric, accord- ing to the object you wish to accomplish. Transfer oil pictures are now sold which can be appliefl to silk and satin by use of a hot u'on. Fan Painting is another field for the artist. Silk, satin, paper, and vellum are the materials. The fans must be se- cured upon a board while being painted. The walls of rooms are frequently adorned with gaily colored Japanese fans, of various sizes. Bowl Painting. — Wooden bowls, such as are used for making bread, are perhaps the latest for painting in oil. The entire bowl is first painted some color, — blue or gray looks well, — and then on the inside is painted a design covering the bottom and extending up the sides. The subjects which seem most sought after are marine views, with scenes of sun-rises. " At morning, flinging wide, Its curtain-clouds of purple and vermilion, Dispensing life and light on every side." The bowls, when completed, are hung rather high, with a downward incline, in the corners of the room, and look well nowhere else. In the painting, minute details are to be avoided, as the view will be seen at a distance only. These ornaments take the place of corner brackets. Decorating Floiuer Pots. — Plain, smooth, red-clay flower pots are capable of some decoration worth mentioning ; and as they occupy such prominent places in the house, it is not strange that they should receive some attention from the decorator. Oil or water colors will serve the purpose. Lay broad bands of dull blue around the top and bottom, cover- ing the intervening space with black. Now if you do not have transfer pictures, paste scrap chromos on the black band. Do not observe too much order in pasting them on, but ar- range them in a most disorderly manner. The effect is ex- cellent, and the experiment worth trying. (!lH[i=^pa"KR II. CRYSTAL AMBROTYPES, OR PHOTO-ENAMEL. — HOW TO PAINT PHOTOGRAPHS. — EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR THE PAINT- ING. — MATERIALS AND THEIR USE. — DECALCOMANIA, OR THE ART OF TRANSFERRING PICTURES. — TRANS- FERRING PICTURES TO WOOD, STONE, GLASS, SILK, SATIN, ETC. — EASY AND INEXPENSIVE WAYS OF DEC- ORATING. OUBTLESS many have admired the hand- somely colored photographs exhibited through- out the country by agents who claim to know the secret of the art, and the method of teaching it. The fact is, it is no secret, the process being an old one, and very simple. Materials Necessary for the Work. The best of tube paints in flake white, orange- yellow, Indian red, vermillion, chrome-green, rose-madder, terre-verte, ivory black, Prussian blue, and Vandyke brown, a convex glass in size to suit, an ounce of castor-oil and balsam of fir in equal parts, an ounce vial of castor-oil, adhesive paper, good mucilage, and camel's hair brushes in three sizes. None of these are diffi- cult to procure, except the convex glass. That can be ob- tained from any first-class picture dealer. [345] 846 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. The Process. Let your photograph lie in rain-water for ten or twelve hours; it can then be taken from the card with ease. Use a blotter to dry it. Clean the glass thoroughly. Cover the face of the photograph with mucilage, using a soft linen cloth, and at once place the face side next to the under side of the convex glass. Place soft paper over it, and work out all air and moisture, beginning at the center. When perfectly smooth, lay the picture aside for an hour, after which wet the entire surface with the mixture of castor-oil and balsam of fir, and place in the sun. In about eight hours the picture will become perfectly transparent. After it has become perfectly transparent, wipe off the picture with castor-oil and a linen cloth to free it from the sticki- ness caused by the balsam of fir. The picture is now ready for the paint. How TO Paint the Pictuhe. Take a fine brush and the least possible amount of flake white, and touch the white spots in the eyes. Next outline the face, ear, nose, and mouth with a slight line of white. If the eyes you wish to paint are blue, use Vandyke brown for the pupils, and Prussian blue mixed with a little white for the rest of the eye, using white for the corners. If the eye is brown, paint the pupil black, and the rest of the eye brown. The corners are painted with white and yellow mixed for dark eyes. For a blonde, paint the lips with white and rose-madder ; for a brunette, use white and Ver- million. For the center of the ear, use a fine paint of Ver- million ; for the rest of the ear, white, with a slight touch of rose-madder. Paint the cheeks and chin of a blonde with a TRANSFERRING PICTURES. 347 mixture of rose-madder, white, and a little touch of yellow. For a brunette use Vermillion instead of rose-madder. This mixture gives the flesh tint. Use the flesh tint beneath the brows and around the eyes. Add a little white to this, and paint around the edges of the hair, increasing the amount of white "as you near the eyebrows. Use flesh tint for the neck. For blondes, use a background made of Prussian blue, rose-madder, and white; and for brunettes use white, rose-madder, and terre-verte, well mixed. For jewelry, use orange yellow mixed with a little white. For hair slightly gray, use ivory black and pure white mixed. For auburn hair, mix white, yellow ochre, and Vandyke brown. These pictures will remain in good condition for some time, but after a few years will become opaque. Good ma- terials are absolutely necessary. This work requires much patient effort. When the painting is all done, place the picture in an oval frame, such as are found at the pictiire stores. Decalcomania, or the Art of Transferring Pictures. There is no more ready process for decorating panels, va.ses, flower stands, the beds of vehicles, and, in fact, any- thing upon which a picture can be placed with slight cost,, than the art of decalcomania. The Materials. The pictures for transferring are for sale in picture, paint, and varnish stores at very trifling cost. The other materials are, a small quantity of balsam of fir, or some good white varnish which will dry quickly, a small sponge, and a brush for applying the varnish. 348 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. How TO Transfer the Picture. A little practice is required to make a neat transfer. Clean the object to which the picture is to be applied, and take great care to leave it dry and perfectly free from any oily substance. Apply a thin, even coating of either var- nish or balsam of fir to the face of the picture, and press the picture to the surface to which it is to bo transferred. Be cai'eful that the picture i • never moved after it is once ap- plied. Smooth it down very evenly, working out every blister and air-hole. The next step is to remove the paper, which will then reveal the picture firmly stuck to the sur- face intended. The process of removing the paper 13 very simple, but skill is required. With the sponge, moisten the paper, gradually but thoroughly. This should be done before the varnish is quite dry. When the paper has been sufficiently moistened, it should be neatly peeled off, beginning at a corner, when, if the foregoing instruc- tions have been faithfully observed, the picture will be re- vealed firmly sticking where desired. Sometimes a portion ©f the picture will come off with the paper ; this results from one of three causes, — either the varnish was not evenly spread, or it had not dried enough to hold the picture, or the paper had not been sufficiently moistened. The remedy is apparent. Among the late uses to which this method has been put Ls the transferring of pictures to silk and satin, in place of painting, and it may not be amiss to state that when they are transferred, the pictures very much resemble oil paint- ings. There is no reason why these pictures could not be transferred to any plaque or vase, making really beautiful ornaments. If the pictures are not attainable at local stores, they can l>e obtained in the larger cities. (!lMi\F^TB.R fll. SOMETHING NOVEL IN EMBROIDERY. — FISH SCALES. — HOW- TO MAKE BAGS AND SACHETS. — COVER FOR A BABY'S CRIB. — OVAL FRAMES FOR PHOTOGRAPHS. — BASKETS. — A KITCHEN TABLE TRANSFORMED INTO A LIBRARY TABLE. — HOW TO MAKE RUGS. — SHEEPSKIN RUGS. »>»:o |ISH SCALE EMBROIDERY.— It remained for some ingenious admirer of the denizens of the deep to invent some plan by which the scales^ of fishes might be utilized for decorative pur- poses. The scales of any fish will answer, but those of perch are preferred on account of the variation of coloi-s^ but usually a variety of scales is needed. After being removed from the fish, the scales must be cleaned, and while moist two holes punched near the roots with a small awl or darning needle, or short incisions may be made on the opposite sides, for fastening them on the design, after which they should be placed between the folds of some paper to dry. Silk or satin will answei- for a ground upon which to set the design, but velvet is also appropriate. Dark colors are best. To fasten the scales, use fine silver wire, or light- colored silk will answer. To get a good design, it should first be drawn on paper, and the outlines pricked through with a pin, aftc^ which the pattern should be placed on the material, and powdered whiting rubbed through the pin [349] 850 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. holes. This will give the outline upon the material, but as it will soon brush off, go over it with ordinary water colors. Beails nia>' be used to make the stems of the design, and the tiowers and leaves worked with scales. If several tints are desired, the scales may be varnished with bright colors before they are sewed on. A Design for Fish Scale Embroidery. — Our illustra- tion gives a very pretty design. The ground is of maroon- colored silk. Work the stem in old-gold silk twist. The leaves and roses are made of scales. In making the leaves, the silver wire must be carried across the scales to represent ^ .MEST^. various shades and colors, combine in forming a material suited to purposes of ornament, and as durable as beautiful. Hearths and Pavements. A hearth or hall can be paved with tiles at a very rea- sonable cost, (about fifty cents per square foot,) and when once done, the whole always presents a neat and coscy ap- pearance, and is easily cleaned. The patterns can usually be .selected from catalogues furnished by dealers and manufacturers. It is becoming popular to lay whole floors in tiles, and as people become better acquainted with this material, its use will supersede wood in many cases where durability and beauty are desired. The tile floor or hearth is laid in mortar, and presents a perfectly smooth surface, the joints fitting closely, and the whole contrasting finely with carpets and furniture. Mantels, Cabinets, etc. The panels at sides and top of mantels are frequently ornamented with tiles. A ver}' attractive mantel of ebon- ized or other wood can be decorated in this way, and the whole cost is much less than for the cold and costly slate or marble mantel. The tiles are set in the panels, something after the fashion of a picture in a frame. These are more costly than floor tilings, as they are ornamented with all kinds of designs, compri.sing such subjects as birds, flowers, foliage, designs from history, Shakespeare, and the Script- ures, « Panels of Cabinets, door-facings, and furniture may be ornamented in the same way, and where the designs consist MANTELS AND CABINETS. '6b, of geometric figure.s, which for the door-facings are appro- priate, the cost is low. Small tiles may be set into any fur- niture desh'able, by cutting away the wood to the desired size, and inserting the tile with plaster or putty. As the field of home decoration is comparatively broad, the good taste of the proprietor is about the only guide as to the ex- tent and scope of the work. Such tiles can be procured six to eight inches square, at a cost of from $1.80 to $5.00 per dozen. Persons of decor- ative talent can buy the plain tiles and decorate them to suit their fancy, returning them to the factory to have the designs burned in ; this practice has of late become very popular. It is advisable to consult catalogues of designs and prices from some reliable dealer or manufacturer, before attempt- ing to do very much in this style of decoration, yet there is no doubt that in a few years examples may be found in almost every home. 4*=jyt<«^^^^?« LIICEUSTi-WALTOI. Lincrusta- Walton is the name of a new material for wall and ceiling decorations, recently introduced from England. It is intended to supply the place of wall-paper, fresco, or plaster, anYES. 367 AxiLixE Dyes. The following recipes are for working pure anilines, and we suggest that to obtain good colors, the dyes used should be those of the Crown Aniline Works (T. H. Eaton and Son, Detroit, Mich). They can be obtained of any re- liable druggist who may choose to order them, or the cus- tomer can order direct from the manufacturers. It is very important to have clean soft water and clean goods to make good colors. To remove grease from goods, run them through sal-soda water. When you dye, use wood or cop- per vessels. Dissolving. — Aniline dyes of all colors should be dis- solved in water boiling hot, using 10 gallons of hot water to one pound of dye, and smaller quantities in proportion, be- fore being placed in the bath intended for immersing the goods. Dyeing Wool. Magenta. — Crimson. — Violet. — Dye in a neutral bath (a neutral bath is a bath of clean water only). Start at hand heat, and raise the temperature of the bath to below boiling point, but do not boil. The amount of dye to be used will depend upon the color you want to produce; the goods may be raised from time to time, and more dye added. Care should be taken to turn the goods well while in the bath ; wash in clean cold water, wring, and dry. For Sill; dye as above, only add a little dissolved Mar- seilles soap. Scarlets and Cardinals. — For 50 pounds of goods, (smaller quantities in proportion), take one pound cochineal 808 OUM ROMEU Ai\Jj lliEiR ADOliliMEI^TS. substitute, or one pound cardinal red, dissolve, and add to a bath soured with oil of vitriol until the bath is about as sour as weak vinegar; enter the goods at hand heat, turn well while raising to the boil, and boil 30 minutes. Wash in cold water, wring, and dry. Silh is dyed in the same manner, only use strong vine- gar to sour the bath, and a some Marseilles soap. Scarlet and cardinal are fast colors, and will not fade. Pink. — For 50 pounds, take | pound of eosine, dissolve and add to a bath containing 5 lbs. of alum ; bring to the boil, but do not boil long. Orange. — Dye the same as scarlet ; use Orange I. Acid or Navy Blue. — For 50 pounds of goods, take one pound navy or any acid blue, dissolve the blue, and add to a bath containing oil of vitriol sufficient to make it as sour as weak vinegar; boil goods for one hour, wash well in cold water, wring, and dry. Nicholson Blue {Fast Blue). — For 50 pounds of goods, take \ pound 3 B, Nicholson blue, dissolve, and add to a bath containing 5 pounds sal-soda. Enter the goods, and work to the boiling point, boiling 30 minutes; then take out and wash in clean cold water. Prepare a second bath of clean water, make it sour to taste with oil of vitriol, bring the bath to hand heat, enter the goods, and bring to boiling point. Wash well in cold water, wring, and dry. Seal Brown. — For 50 pounds of goods, dissolve one pound mode brown in 5 gallons boiling water; make your bath quite sour with oil of vitriol, add 5 pounds of glauber USEFUL SUGGESTIONS. ^69 salts. Enter the goods, boil 30 minutes, wash in cold water, and dry. Yelloiv. — Dye with acid yellow, and work same as scarlet. Green. — Dye with Frankfort green the same as for fast blue. Anilines are not adapted for domestic cotton dyeing, but a good color can be made with cotton blue by working in a bath of clear water containing cotton blue, alum, and glauber salts. For 50 pounds of goods, h pound blue, 2J pounds alum, and 2 pounds glauber salts. Useful Suggestions. In accommodation to the requirements of dyers, many of the recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods; but to make them equally adapted for the use of private fami- lies, they are usually given in even quantities, so that it is quite an easy matter to ascertain the quantity of materials required for dyeing, when once the weight of the goods is known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in proportion to the smaller quantity of goods. Use soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be pro- cured, using 4 gals, water to 1 lb. of goods ; for larger quan- tities, a little less water will do. Let all the implements used in dyeing be kept perfectly clean. Prepare the gooi^s by scouring well with soap and water, washing the soap < it well and dipping in warm water, previous to immersion in the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed, and properly hung up after dyeing. Silks, and fine goods should be tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will re- sult. 24 370 OUIi HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Mordants are solutions used to fix colors and may bo inadci from st^veral common chemicals. A good one is made by mixing coppta'as and acetate of iron in pro])ortion of four of the former to six of the latter. Immerse the cotton or linen to be colored, in this before putting in color vat. Mordants must be used in dyeing cotton fabrics, as they jix the color. Before using Cudbear, it nmst alwaj'-s be drenched with a little hot water, to the consistency of paste ; then scald or boil it as occasion may require. A solution of fanuin or sumac makes a good mordant. AJum or cream of tartar will answer. ''Soar," referred to in some recii^es, Ls made by stirring into clean water enough sulphuric acid to give a shai-p taste. The acid can be procured at any druggist's. To Color Straiv Hats or Bonnets a Beautiful Slate. — First, soak the bonnet in rather strong warm suds for 15 minutes, to remove sizing or stiffening; then rinse in warm water, to get out the soap; now scald cudbear, 1 oz., in suf- ficient water to cover tiie hat or bonnet ; work the bonnet in this dye, at 180° of heat, until you get a light purple ; now have a bucket of cold water, blued with the extract of indiofo, h oz., and work or stir the bonnet in this until the tint pleases; dry, then rinse out with cold water, and dry again in the shadi'. If you get the purple too deep in shade, the final slate will be too dark. Dye for Fcothers. — Black: Immerse for two or three days in a l)atii, at fii-st hot, of logwood, eight parts, and cop- peras or acetate of iron, one part. Blue : with the indigo vat. Brown : by using any of the brown dyes for silk or woolen. Crimson: a mordant of alum, followed by a hot bath of DIRECTIONS FOB BLEACHING. 371 Brazil-wood, afterward by a weak dye of cudbear. Pink or Rose: with saf-flower or lemon juice. Plum: with the red dye, followed by an alkaline bath. Red: a mor- dant of alum, followed by a bath of Brazil-wood. Yel- low : a mordant of alum, followed by a bath of turmeric or weld. Green Dye: take of verdigris and verditer, of each one ounce, gum water 1 pt. ; mix them well, and dip the feathers, they having been first soaked in hot water, into the said mixture. For Purple, use lake and indigo For Carnation, vermilion and smalt. Thin gum of starch water should be used in dyeing feathers. Bleaching. To Bleach Sponge. — Soak it well in dilute muriatic acid for twelve hours. Wash well with water to remove the lime, then immerse in a solution of hyposulphate of soda, to which dilute muriatic acid has been added a moment be- fore. After it is bleached sufficiently, remove it, wash again, and dry. It may thus be bleached almost white. To Whiten Lace. — Lace may be restored to its original whiteness by first ironing it slightly, then folding it, and sewing it into a clean linen bag, which is placed for twenty hours in pure olive-oil. Afterward the bag is to be boUed in a solution of soap and water for fifteen minutes, then well rinsed in lukewarm water, and finally dipped into water containing a slight proportion of starch. The lace is then to be taken from the bag, and stretched on pins to dry. Bleaching Straw Goods. — Straw is bleached by simply expasing it in a closed chamber to the fumes of burning sul- phur, an old flour barrel is the apparatus most used for the purpose by milliners, a flat stone being laid on the ground, 372 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. the sulphur ignited thereon, and the barrel containing the goods to be bleached turned over it. The goods should be previously washed in pure water. To Clean Ostrich Feathers. — Cut some white curd soap in small pieces, pour boiling water on it and add a little pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixt- ure cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers into it, and draw them through the hand till the dirt ap- pears squeezed out of them, pass them through a clean lather with some blue in it, then rinse them in cold water with, blue to give them a good color. Beat them against the hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them near a fire. When perfectly dry, coil each fiber separately with a blunt knife, or ivoiy folder. Bleaching Powder. — Chloride of lime makes a good bleaching powder. The stuff to be bleached is first boiled in lime-water; wash, and without dr3nng, boil again in a solution of soda or potash; wash, and without drying, steep in a weak mixture of chloride of lime and water for six hours ; wash, and without drying, steep for four hours in a weak solution or mixture of sulphuric acid and water; wash well and dry. Upon an emergency, chlorate of potash, mixed with three times its weight of common salt and diluted in water, may be used as a bleaching liquid. Bleaching Ivory. — Antique works in ivory that have become discolored may be brought to a pure whiteness by exposing them to the sun under glasses. It is the particular property of ivory to resist the action of the sun's rays, when it is under glass; but when deprived of this protection, to become covered with a multitude of minute cracks. Many antique pieces of sculpture in ivory may be seen, which. DIRECTIONS FOR BLEACHING. 373 although tolerably white, are, at the same time, defaced by numerous cracks; this defect cannot be remedied; but in order to conceal it, the dust may be removed by brushing the work with warm water and soap, and afterward placing it under glass. Antique works in ivory that have become discolored, may be brushed with pumice-stone, calcined and diluted, and while yet wet placed under glasses. They should be daily exposed to the action of the sun, and be turned from time to time, that they may become equally bleached; if the brown color be deeper on one side than the other, that side will, of course, be for the longest time ex- posed to the sun. To Bleach Prints and Printed Books. — Simple im- mersion in dilute muriatic acid, letting the article remain in it a longer or shorter space of time, according to the strength of the liquor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving; if it be required to whiten the paper of a bound book, as it is necessary that all the leaves should be moistened by the acid, care must be taken to open the book well, and to make the boards rest on the edge of the vessel, in such a manner that the paper alone shall be dipped in the liquid ; the leaves must be separated from each other, in order that they may be equally moistened on both sides. The liquor assumes a yellow tint, and the paper becomes white in the same pro- portion. At the end of two or three hours the book may be taken from the acid liquor, and plunged into pure water with the same care and precaution as recommended in re- gard to the acid liquor, that the water may touch both sides of each leaf. The water must be renewed every hour, to extract the acid remaining in the paper, and to dissipate the disagreeable smell. Printed paper may also be bleached by sulphuric acid, or by alkaline or soap leys. 374 OUB HOMEH AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Washing Fluid. — Take 1 lb. sal-soda, | lb. gootl un- slaked lime, and 5 qts. of water; boil a short time, let it settle, and pour off the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork for use; soak your white clothes over night in simple water, wring out and soap wristbands, collars, and dirty or stained places; have your boiler half filled with water just begin- ning to boil, then put in one common tea-cupful of this fluid, stir and put in your clothes, and boil for half an hour, thea rub lightly through one suds only, and all is complete. ^ASl '^^-H^M-^^*>- Hqusmold Cmpendium t Ifip pif ph?l(f iwlpf$. * 3 ^Xe> c>'«^ [375] KHIS department embraces a list of Eecipes, many of [y^ which have appeared in no other work, and the whole Tlist may be relied upon as practical, easy, and effective. The following classification of subjects has been intro- duced for the benefit of the reader : Hints on Health, Hints on Home Adornments, Toilet Recipes, Dyeing and BWach- ing, Cleaning and Scouring, Varnishes and Paints, Cements, and Miscellaneous Eecipes. [376] &^^' •-*?=: .•HMiiMM.miiimMiini^ THE i=^. -o- -r-g==^^l^^^=^- -«^>- toUSEHOLD lOMPENDroi. -g^~s=c^^^^^^i=s-§- elC'li4'l"<> oM^ SCdcMfv. DISINFECTANT FOR SICK-ROOMS.— Let a reliable apothecary put up for you in a small bottle four ounces of ninety per cent alcohol and one ounce of thirty-six per cent nitric acid. One-half of this mixture will disinfect a room fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and twelve feet high. One large spoonful of it (one-half ounce) will disinfect a large bed-room containing 1,200 cubic feet of air-space. Two tea-spoonfuls of it (two drachms) will disinfect a bed-room nine feet square, and seven and one-half feet high. A tea-spoonful (one drachm) is sufiicient for 300 cubic feet of air-space. The method of using the mixture is as follows: Put the quantity to be used in a porcelain capsule (a tea saucer will do), set a pan of warm water in the room to be disinfected; let the capsule or saucer containing the disinfectant float on the surface of the warm water. The mixture in the float- [377] 378 OUK HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. ing capsule or saucer will evaporate by the heat of the water, and the vapor will eftectively disinfect. Do n't try to evap- orate it on a stove, over a lamp, or by a fire ; mischief would result. Use exactly warm water to effect evaporation and nothing else. Use only porcelain to hold the mixture, for it will corrode metal. It will also spoil a good spoon. Label the bottle "poison," for it would be very dangerous to take it instead of medicine. The chemist will perceive that the disinfecting vapor evolved is nitrate of ethyl. The alcohol is in excess and so saturates the acid products of the reac- tion that they are not disagreeable, while they are equally effective. The material, in the quantity necessary to use, is very cheap, and the method of using it, when clearly understood, is very simple. The vapor evolved, while inoffensive, de- stroys infected dust and germs of putrefaction floating in the air of a sick-room. It is excellent for hospitals and public buildings; only, in large spaces, the quantity used should be divided and evaporated in different parts of the room. It is sufficient to use it once a day. Hygienists are indebted to a French scientist, M. Ley- russon, for this ingenious, cheap, and simple method of dis- infecting sick-rooms, without danger or even annoyance to the inmates. It has been very recently published in France. The Best Deodorizer. — Use bromo-chloralum in the pro- portion of one to eight table-spoonfuls of soft water ; dip cloths in this solution and hang in the rooms; it will purify sick- rooms of any foul smells. The surface of anything may be pui-ified by washing well and then rul)bing over with a weakened solution of bromo-chloralum. A weak solution is excellent to rinse the mouth with often, when from any HINTS OX HEALTH. S79 cause the breath is offensive. It is also an excellent wash for sores and wounds that have an offensive odor. Lime- Water. — One of the most useful agents of house- hold economy, if rightly understood, is lime-water. Its mode of preparation is as follows: Put a stone of fresh un- slacked lime about the size of a half-peck measure into a large stone jar or unpainted pail, and pour over it slowly and carefully (so as not to slacken too rapidly), a tea-kettle full (four gallons), of hot water, and stir thoroughly ; let it settle, and then stir again two or three times in twenty-four hours. Then carefully bottle all that can be poured off in a clear and limpid state. It is often sold by druggists as a remedy for children's summer complaints, a tea-spoonful being a dose in a cup of milk, and when diarrhea is caused by acidity of the stomach, it is an excellent remedy, and when put into milk gives na unpleasant taste, but rather improves the flavor. It may also be put into milk that is to be used for puddings and and pies, to prevent its curdling. A little stirred into cream or milk, after a hot day or night, will prevent its turning- when used for tea or coffee. It is unequaled in cleansing bottles or small milk-vessels^ or babies' nursing bottles, as it sweetens and purifies with- out leaving an unpleasant odor or flavor. A cupful, or even more, mixed in the sponge of bread or cakes made over night, will prevent souring. 380 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Preserving Autumn Leaves. — These may be easily pre- served and retain their natural tints, or nearly so, by either of the following methods: — As they are gathered they may be laid between the leaves of a magazine or large book until it is fuU, and left with a light weight upon them until the moisture in the leaves has been absorbed. Two or three thicknesses of paper should intervene between the leaves. If they are large or in clusters, take newspapers, lay them on a shelf, and use them as with a book. When the leaves have become perfectly dry, dip them in melted white wax into which you have put a few drops of turpentine, and lay them on clean papers to dry; this will make the leaves pliable and natural, and give them suffi- cient gloss. Great care should be used to make the wax just hot enough, the temperature being ascertained by the first leaf dipped in. Draw it gently out of the wax and hold it up, — if the wax is too hot, the leaf will shrivel ; if too cool, the wax will adhere in lumps. Leaves preserved in this way make chaste and attractive ornaments, if grouped in graceful figures. Skeletonizing Leaves. — For the leaves, maple ones and those that have a pretty shape are the best: To one pound of soda-ash add two quarts of soft water. After it is all dissolved by boiling, add as many leaves as your dish will hold ; lay them in flat, boil until the epidermis will come off" easily. Try a leaf in cold water, and if only the veins remain they are done sufficiently. Clean them with an old HINTS ON HOME DECORATION 381 tooth-brush, and supply the missing stems with fine wire. After they are well cleaned put them in a solution of chlo- ride of lime to bleach, ten cents' worth of lime is enough for leaves and ferns too. Gather the young ferns and put them in the solution of lime you have for your leaves, not the soda-ash, only the bleaching solution. Float them on stiff paper and put them in books to dry, after washing thoroughly in clear water to prevent them from turning yellow. Poppy-heads are very fine, also Molven balm fixed in this way is lovely for winter bouquets. Add more water to the leaves as it boils away. For Crystallizing Grass. — Ladies who admire beautiful bouquets of grasses, will appreciate the following recipe: — Take one and one-half pounds of rock alum, pour on three pints of boiling water; when quite cool put into a wide-mouthed vessel, hang in your grasses, a few at a time. Do not let them get too heavy, or the stems will not support them. You may 'again heat alum and add more grasses. By adding a little coloring matter it will give pleasing vari- ety. To Imitate Ground-Glass Windows. — Put a piece of putty weighing about six ounces into a muslin bag so as to form a smooth surface. After thoroughly cleaning the glass, pat it all over with the bag of putty, which being forced out through the muslin, will cover the glass. Let this dry hard, and varnish with shellac or white varnish. If still more time and pains are taken, the glass can be made to represent ground glass almost perfectly. Cut from stiff paper any graceful geometric or other pattern, paste it on the glass, and go over the part not covered by the pattern, as above. After the putty is dry, remove the 382 OUR HOMES AXD THEIR ADORNMENTS. pattern and paste with water. This plan is aspecially adapted to glass in doors. Ebonizlng Wood. — The following is a recipe used by furniture manufacturers for the now popular style of ebon- ized wood: Logwood chips 8 oz., water q. s., copperas I oz. Boil the logwood in one gallon of water for half an liour, and add the copperas. Apply to the wood hot, giv- ing two or three coats. In varnishing ebonized wood, a little drop black must be added, or the varnish will give a brown shade. 'Soilel- o^icclpc^. The publishei-s have been at no small expense in secur-' ing recipes for this work, and can assure their patrons that they have all been tested by experience. The toilet recipes have been furnished by a druggist of long standing, many of the formulas not having been given the public before. The Hair. Hair Gloss. — Glycerine 6 oz., cologne 2 oz. Mix and use to moisten the hair. Hair Oil. — Ca.stor oil 6 oz., cologne spuits or alcohol 2 oz. Perfume with bergamont oi- other de.sirable perfume. Hair Wa.'^/i for Cleaning the Scalp. — Salts of Tartar \ oz., alcohol ^ of a pt., rain-water 1 pt., ro.se-water h pt. Mix and dis.solve. If a profuse lather Is desired, add more tartar. Hair Lotion, To Prevent Hair from Falling Out. — Rose-water 15 oz., glycerine 1 oz., aqua ammonia 1 dr., tincture of cantharidcs 2 . There is little trouble in preparing the stain, and its application differs but slightly from painting. Directions for Staining. — In preparing any of the tinctures, it is of importance to powder or mash all the dry stuffs previous to dissolving or macerating them, and to purify all the liquids by filtration before use. It will be better for inexperienced hands to coat twice or three times with a weak stain than only once with a very strong one, as by adopting the first mode a particular tint may be grad- uaUy effected, whereas, by pursuing the latter course, an iiTemediable discolorization may be the result. Coarse pieces of carving, spongy end, and cross-grained woods, should be previously prepared for the reception of stain ; this is best done by putting on a thin layer of varnish, letting it dry, and then sand-papering it completi'ly off *sgain. Fine work merely requires to be oiled and slightly STAINING WOODS. 393 rubbed with the finest sand-paper. Thus prepared, the woody fiber is enabled to take on the stain more regularly, and to attain a high degree of smoothness. Stains may be applied with a good brush or with a woolen rag or sponge. To Stain Walnut. — Use burnt umber and linseed oil, apply with a brush, and when dry sand-paper again and apply more stain. When the desired stain is made, varnish. A quick stain may be made by using water or thin glue in- stead of oil. This stain is not durable. Another. — Water 1 qt., washing soda IJ oz., Vandyke brown 2| oz., bichromate of potash ^ oz. Boil for 10 minutes, and apply with a brush, in either a hot or cold stain. Black Stain. — Boil 1 lb. of logwood in 4 qts. of water, add a double handful of walnut peel or shells ; boil it up again, take out the chips, add a pint of the best vinegar, and it will be. fit for use; apply it boiling. This will be improved, if, when dry, a solution of green copperas, an ounce to a quart of water, is applied hot over the first stain. Black Stains for Immediate Use.^-Boi\ | lb. of chip logwood in 2 qts. of water, add 1 oz. of pearlash, and apply it hot to the work with a brush. Then take ^ lb. of logwood, boil it as before in 2 qts. of water, and add | oz. of verdigris and h oz. of copperas ; strain it off", put in | lb. of rusty steel filings ; with this go over the work a second time. Ebo7iy Stains. — Stain work with the black stain, adding powdered nutgall to the logwood and copperas solution, dry, rub down well, oil, then use French polish made tolerably dark with indigo, or finely-powdered stone-blue. Cherry Stain. — Soft water 3 qts., annotto 4 oz. ; boil in a copper kettle till the annotto is dissolved, put in a piece of potash the size of a walnut; simmer over the fire about half an hour longer, and it is ready to bottle for use. 394 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. To Clean Pearls. — Soak them in hot water in which bran has been boiled, with a little salts of tartar and alum, rubbing gently between the hands, when the heat will admit of it; when the water is cold, renew the application till any discoloration is removed ; rinse in warm water. Lay them on white paper in a dark place to cool. To Clean Marble, Etc. — Mix up a quantity of the strongest soap-lees with quick-lime, to the consistency of milk, and lay it on the stone for twenty-four hours. Clean it, and it will appear as new. This may be improved by rubbing afterward with fine putty powder on olive-oil. To Clean Oil -Paintings. — Wash with a sponge or a soft leather and water, and dry with a silk handkerchief. When the picture is very dirty, take it out of its frame, pro- cure a clean towel, and making it quite wet, lay it on the face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to time with clear, soft water. Let it remain wet for two or three days. Take the cloth off and renew it with a fresh one. After wiping the picture with a clean wet sponge, repeat the proc- ess till all the dirt is soaked out ; then wash it well with a soft sponge, let it become quite dry, and rub it with some clear nut or linseed oil. Spirits of wine and turpentine may be used to dissolve the hard old varnish, but they will attack the paint as well as the varnish if the further action of the spirits is not stopped at the proper time by using water freely. To Clean Plate. — Take an ounce each of cream of tartar, muriate of soda, and alum, and boil in a gallon or more of water. After the plate is taken out and rubbed CLEANING AND SCOURING. 395 dry, it puts on a beautiful silvery whiteness. Powdered magnesia may be used dry for articles slightly tarnished,^ but if very dirty it must be used first wet and then dry. To Clean Brass or Copper. — Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 6 oz. rotten-stone, ^ oz. gum arable, all in powder, 1 oz. sweet oil, and sufficient water to make a paste. Apply a small portion, and rub dry with a flannel or leather. Silver Plate. — Mix together 8 oz. prepared chalk, 2 oz. turpentine, 1 oz. alcohol, 4 dr. spirits of camphor, and 2 dr. liquor of ammonia. Apply this « mixture to the article with a sponge, and allow to dry before polishing. Silver Cleaning Liquid. — Prepared chalk 8 oz., tur- pentine 2 oz., alcohol 1 oz., spirits of camphor 4 dr., liq- uor of ammonia 2 dr. Apply with a sponge, and allow to dry before polishing. Or use a solution of cyanide of po- tassium, 12 oz. cyanide to 1 qt. water; immerse the silver, brush it with a stiffs brush until clean, wash and dry. Cleaning Hats. — The stains of grease and paint may be removed from fur hats by means of turpentine; and if the turpentine leaves a mark, finish with a little spirits of wine. Cleaning Jewelry. — Common jewelry may be effectually cleaned by washing with soap and warm water, rinsing in cold water, dipping in spirits of any kind, and drying in warm boxwood sawdust. Good jewelry only needs wash- ing with soap and water, and polishing with rouge and a chamois leather. Cleaning Engravings. — Put the engraving on a smooth board, cover it thinly with common salt, finely pounded; squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a consid- erable portion of it; elevate one end of the board, so that it may form an angle of about 45° or 50° with the horizon. 396 '>C^^ HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Pour on the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle, until the salt and lemon -juice are all washed off; the engrav- ing will then be perfectly clean, and free from stains. It must be dried on the board, or on some smooth surface, gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, it will be tinged with a yellow color. Polishing Wood Carving. — Take a piece of wadding, soft and pliable, and on it drop a few drops of white or trans- parent polish or French polish, according to the color of the wood. Wrap the wetted wadding up in a piece of old linen, forming it into a pad ; and hold it by the surplus linen ; then touch with one or two drops of linseed oil. Pass the pad gently over the parts to be polished, working it round in small circles, occasionally re-wetting the wadding in polish, and the pad with a drop or so of oil. The object of the oil is merely to cause the pad to run over the wood easily without sticking, therefore as little as possible should be used, as it tends to deaden the polish to a certain extent. Where a carving is to be polished after having been varnished, the same process is necessary, but it can only be applied to the plainer portions of the work. Plane surfaces must be made perfectly smooth with glass paper before pol- ishing, as every scratch or mark will show twice as much after the operation. When the polish is first rubbed on the wood, it is called the bodying in; it will sink into the wood and not give much glaze. It must, when dry, have another body rubbed on, and a third generally finishes it; but if not, the operation must be repeated. Just before the task is completed, greasy smears will show themselves; these will disappear by continuing the gentle rubbing without oiling the pad. CLEANING AND SCOURING. 397 Polishing Mother-of-Pearl. — Go over it with pumice- stone finely powdered and washed to separate the impurities and dirt, with which polish it very smooth; then apply putty powder and water by a rubber, which will produce a fine gloss and good color. Floors. — Take some clean, sifted, white or silver sand, and scatter it on the floor. Dissolve one pound of American potash or pearlash, in one pint of water, and sprinkle the sand with this solution. Have a pail of very hot water, and scrub the boards lengthwise with a hard brush, using the mottled soap. Change the water frequently. This is the best way to scour and whiten boards. The pot- ash, if applied as directed, will take out all stains. Ink stains may be removed from boards by using either strong vinegar or salts of lemon. Cleaning House Faint. — Old paint-work should be first well dusted, then cleaned by washing with a ley of pearlash and water; it is sometimes necessary, after the washing, to give a coat of weak size, and as soon as it is dry, apply varnish, using copal for light work, and carriage for dark. Some handrails, doors, and so on, are so saturated with grease, that no washing will remove it. When this is the case, brush the foul parts over with strong fresh-made lime-wash, let that dry, then rub it off; if the grease is not removed, repeat the lime- washing, until the grease is thor- oughly drawn out; wash the lime off clean, and afterward apply the sizing, and lastly the varnish. To Wash Silver Ware. — Never use a particle of soap on your silver ware, as it dulls the luster, giving the article more the appearance of pewter than silver. When it wants cleaning, rub it with a piece of soft leather and prepared ;j'J8 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. chalk, the latter made into a kind of paste with pure water, for the reason that water not pure might contain gritty particles. Cleaning Gilt Frames. — Gilt frames may be cleaned by simply washing them with a small sponge, wet with urine, hot spirits of wine, or oil of turpentine, not too wet, but sufficiently to take off the dirt and fly marks. They should not be afterward wiped, but left to dry of themselves. Scouring Articles of Dress. — Among the spots which alter the color fixed upon stuffs, some are caused by a sub- stance which may be described as simple, and others by a sub- stance which results from the combination of two or more bodies, that may act separately or together upon the stuff, and which may therefore be called compound. Q^tca^nina efafc^z^ico. Oils and fats are the substances which form the greater part of simple stains. They give a deep shade to the ground of the cloth ; they continue to spread for several days ; they attract the dust, and retain it so strongly that it is not removable by the brush; and they eventually render the stain lighter colored, upon a dark ground, and of a dis- agreeable gray tint upon a pale or light ground. The general principle of cleansing all spots consists in applying to them a substance with a stronger affinity for the matter composing them than this has for the cloth, and which shall render them soluble in some liquid menstruum, •such as water, spirits, naphtha, or oil of turpentine. Alkalies are the most powerful solvents of grease; but they act too REMOVING STAINS. 399 strongly upon silk and wool, as well as change too power- fully the colors of dyed stuffs, to be safely applicable in re- moving stains. The best substances for this purpose are: 1. Soap. 2. Chalk, fuller's- earth, soap-stone, or French chalk. These should be mixed with a little water, made into a thin paste, spread upon the stain, and allowed to dry. The spot requires now to be merely brushed. 3. The volatile oil of turpentine Avill take out only recent stains ; for which pur- pose it ought to be previously purified by distillation over quick-lime. Wax, resin, turpentine, pitch, and all resinous bodies in general, form stains of greater or less adhesion, which may be dissolved out by pure alcohol. 4. Oxalic acid removes iron rust almost instantly, A stain of iron rust and grease requires two distinct operations, one to remove the grease and the other the rust, which can be done as indicated in preceding directions. Recent Ink Sfa ins — may be removed by washing in pure water, then in soapy water, and lastly with lemon -juice; but if the stain be old, use oxalic acid, which may be applied in powder, well rubbed on, and washed off with pure water. Ox-gall and yolk of egg have the property of dissolving fatty bodies without perceptibly affecting the texture or colors of cloth, and may therefore be employed with ad- vantage. The ox -gall should be purified, to prevent its gi-eenish tint from degrading the brilliancy of dyed stuffs, or the purity of whites. Thus prepared it is the most prec- ious of all substances known for removing these kinds of stains. Grease from Cloth. — Grease can be removed from cloth by a paste of fuller's-earth and turpentine. This should be rubbed on the fabric until the turpentine has evaporated and 400 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. a white powder produced. The latter can be brushed off, and the grease will have disappeared. Another. — Benzine, alcohol, ether, equal parts; mix, apply with a sponge (patting the spot), put a piece of blot- ting paper on each side and iron with a hot flat-iron. The ingredients are very inflammable ; use great care not to take them too near a fire. To Destroy the Effects of Add on Clothes. — Dampen as soon as possible, after exposure to the acid, with spnits of ammonia. It will destroy the efiect immediately. Fruit StaivoS. — First rub the spot on each side with hard soap, and then lay on a thick mixture of starch and cold water. Rub this mixture of starch well into the spot, and afterward expose it to the sun and air. If the stain has- not disappeared at the end of three or four days, repeat the process. Grease Spots. — Dissolve one ounce of pearlash in one pint of water, and to this solution add a lemon cut into thin slices. Mix well, and keep the mixture in a warm state for two days, then strain and bottle the clear liquid for use. A small quantity of this mixture poured on stains occasioned by either grease, oil, or pitch, will speedily remove them. Afterward wash in clear water. Ink Stains. — Strain the linen tightly over a basin con- taining boiling water, and wet the stain with water. Then carefully let fall on the spot a few drops of salts of lemon, or diluted spirits of salt; use for this purpose a feather, or small camel's-hair pencil. When the stain has been removed, wash carefully in cold water. Iron-mold stains may also be removed by this method. To Wash Lace. — Cover an ordinary wine bottle with TO REVIVE FURS AND RENOVATE SILK. 401 fine flannel, stitching it firmly round the bottle. Tack one end of the lace to the flannel, then roll it very smoothly round the bottle, and tack down the other end, then cover with a piece of very fine flannel or muslin. Now rub it gently with a strong soap liquor, and if the lace is very much discolored or dirty, fill the bottle with hot water, and place it in a kettle or saucepan of suds and boil it for a few minutes, then place the bottle under a tap of running water to rinse out the soap. Make some strong starch, and melt in it a piece of white wax and a little loaf sugar. Plunge the bottle two or three times into this and squeeze out the superfluous starch with the hands; then dip the bottle in cold water, remove the outer covering from the lace, fill the bottle with hot water, and stand it in the sun to dry the lace. When nearly dry take it veiy carefully off" the bottle, and pick it out with the fingers. Then lay it in a cool place to dry thoroughly. Reviving Furs. — Thoroughly sprinkle every part with hot flour and sand, and brush well with a hard brush. Then beat with a cane, comb it smooth with a wet comb, and press carefully with a warm iron. For ermine use plaster-of- Paris instead of flour and sand, and treat in the same way. To Renovate ^'iZA;. — Potato-water is good to clean all colors and kinds; grate the potatoes into cold spring water, say a large potato to every quart of water, of which five or six will do for a couple of dresses. If for very light silk, pare the potatoes; if for dark, merely wash them clean. The pan of water must not be stirred in the least for forty- eight hours ; then, very slowly and steadily pour off" the clear liquor, but not a particle of the sediment, into a large open vessel, dip the pieces of silk into this hquid up and down a 26 402 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. few times, without creasing them ; then wipe them on a flat table with a clean towel, first one side, then the other. It is as well to hang each one as dipped ujx)n a line to allow the drops to drain off a little before wiping. Have a damp cloth to cover them in till all is done ; then iron one way, on the soiled side. To Wash Feathers. — Dis.solve four ounces of white soap in two quarts of boiling water ; put it into a large basin or small pan, and beat to a strong lather with a wire egg-beater or a small bundle of birch twigs ; use while warm. Hold the feather by the quill with the left hand, dip it into the soap liquor and squeeze it through the right hand, using a moderate degree of pressure. Continue this operation until the feather is perfectly clean and white, using a second lot of soap liquor if necessary. Rinse in clean hot water to take out' the soap, and afterward in cold water in which a small quantity of blue has been dissolved. Shake well, and dry before a moderate fire, shaking it occasionally that it may look full and soft when dried. Before it is quite dry curl each fibre separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper- folder. To Wash Carpets. — Spread the carpet where you can use a brush, take Iiish potatoes and scrape them into a pail or tub of water and let them stand over night, using one peck to clean a large carpet; two pails of water is sufficient to let them stand in, and you can add more when ready to use ; add two ounces of beef gall and use with a brush, as to scrub a floor; the particles of potato will help cleanse, and when diy, brush with a broom or stiff brush. Excellent Family Soa]^. — 1 box concentrated lye, 5 lbs. grease, 1 lb. resin, 11 gals, soft water; make in an RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 403 iron pot. When the water boils, put in the lye; when this is dissolved, add the grease; stir till all is melted, then add one pound of resin gradually, and boil for an hour and a half; keep stirring with a stick, and add hot water to keep up the original quantity, pour into wet tin pans, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Cut into bars, and keep in a dry, warm place for a month. Washing Fluid. — 9 table-spoonfuls unslacked lime, 2 lbs. sal-soda, 4 qts. water; let this simmer half an hour, then bottle up. Take a small tea-cupful to a boiler of water. Another. — 1 lb. sal-soda, 1 lb. potash, each dissolved in 1 gal. water (separately); mix together and bottle. Cheap Filter. — Take a common flower-pot as large as possible, plug the hole in the bottom with a piece of sponge, then put a layer of powdered charcoal about an inch thick, the same of clean sand, and a layer of small stones and coarse gravel about two inches thick. Set the pot where the water can drop off the sponge, and pour in water gently. In a few minutes the water will find its way through the sand and charcoal and drop into the vessel placed below, clear and free from impurities. How to Use Cements. — Take as small a quantity of the cement as possible, and bring the cement itself into intimate contact with the surfaces to be united. If glue is employed, the surface should be made so warm that the melted glue is not chilled before it has time to effect a thorough adhesion. Cements that are used in a fused state, as resin or shellac, will not adhere unless the parts to be joined are heated to 404 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. the fusing point of the cement. Sealing-wax, or ordinary electrical cement, is a good agent for uniting metal to glass or stone, provided the masses to be united are made so hot as to fuse the cement, but if the cement is applied to them while they arc cold it will not stick at all. This fact is well known to the itinerant vendors of cement for uniting earth- enware. By heating two pieces of china or earthenware so that they will fuse shellac, they are able to smear them with a little of this gum, and join the pieces so that they will rather break at any other part than along the line of union. But although people constantly see the operation per- formed, and buy liberally of the cement, it will be found in nine cases out of ten that the cement proves worthless in the hands of the purchasers, simply because they do not know , how to use it. They are afraid to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel to a sufficient degree, or they are apt to use too much of the material, and the result is a failure. Cement for Ivory or Mother-of -Pearl. — Dissolve 1 part of isinglass and 2 of white glue in 30 parts of water, strain and evaporate to 6 parts, add one-thirtieth part of gum mastic, dissolved in one-half part of alcohol, add 1 part of white zinc. When required to use, warm and shake up. Cement for Jet. — Shellac is generally used for jet arti- cles. The broken edges should be heated before applying the shellac. Should the joint be in sight, it will be rendered the same color as the jet itself by smoking the shellac before applying it. Cheap India-Rubber Cement. — Cut virgin or native India-rubber with a wet knife into the thinest possible slices, and with shears divide these into threads as fine as fine yarn. Put a small quantity of the shreds, (say one-tenth RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 405 or less of the capacity of the bottle), into a wide-mouthed bottle, and fill it three-quarters full with benzine of good quality perfectly free from oil. The rubber will swell up almost immediately, and in a few days, especially if often shaken, assume the consistency of honey. If it inclines to remain in undissolved masses, more benzine must be added, but if too thin and watery it needs more rubber. A piece of solid rubber the size of a walnut will make a pint of cement. It dries in a few minutes, and by using three coats in the usual manner, will unite leather straps, patches, rubber soles, backs of books, etc., with exceeding firmness. Cement for Petroleum Lamps. — Boil 3 parts of resin with 1 part of caustic soda and 5 of water. The composi- tion is then mixed with half its weight of plaster-of-Paris, and sets firmly in one-half to three-fourths of an hour. It is of gi'eat adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum, a slow conductor of heat, and but superficially attacked by hot water. Cement to Mend Iron Pots and Pans. — Take 2 parts of sulphur, and 1 part, by weight, of fine black-lead, put the sulphur in an old iron pan, holding it over the fire until it begins to melt ; then add the lead, stir well until all is mixed and melted, then pour out on an iron plate, or smooth stone. When cool, break into small pieces. A sufiicient quantity of this compound being placed upon the crack of the iron pot to be mended, can be soldered by a hot iron in the same way a tinsmith solders his sheets. If there is a small hole in the pot, drive a copper rivet into it and then solder over it with this cement. London Cement. — Boil a piece of old cheese three times in water, each time allowing the water to evaporate. Take 406 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. the paste thus left and thoroughly incorporate with dry quick-lime. It willl mend glass, wood, china, etc., very effectually. Cement for Wood Vessels Required to be Water- Tight. — Take lime-clay and oxide of iron, seperately cal- cined and reduced to fine powder, then intimately mixed, kept in a close vessel, and mixed with the requisite quantity of water when used. Cement for Leather. — A good cement for splicing leather for straps is gutta-percha dissolved in bisulphide of carbon, until it is of the thickness of molasses; the parts to be cemented must first be well thinned clown, then pour a small quantity of the cement on both ends, spreading it well so as to fill the pores of the leather, warm the parts over a fire for about half a minute, apply them quickly together and ham- mer well. The bottle containing the cement should be tightly corked and kept in a cool place. Marble Cement. — Take plaster-of- Paris and soak it in a saturated solution of alum, then bake in an oven, the same as gypsum is baked to make it plaster-of-Paris ; after Avhich grind the mixture to powder. It is then used as wanted, being mixed up with water like plaster and applied. It sets into a very hard composition capable of taking a very high polish, and may be mixed with various coloring minerals to produce a cement of any color capable of imitating marble. This cement is also used for attaching; rrlass to metal. Chinese Cement. — Finest pale orange shellac, broken small, 4 oz., rectified spirit, the strongest, 3 oz., digest to- gether in a corked bottle in a warm place until dissolved ; it should have the consistency of molasses. It is used for wood, glass, ivory, jewelry, and all fancy works. RECIPES FOR CEMENTS. 407 Cements for Cracks in Wood. — Make a paste of slacked lime 1 part, rye meal 2 parts, with a sufficient quantity of linseed oil. Or, dissolve 1 part of glue in 16 parts of water, and when almost cool, stir in sawdust and prepared chalk a sufficient quantity. Or, oil-varnish thickened with a mixt- ure of equal parts of white-lead, red-lead, litharge, and chalk. To Mend China. — Take a very thick solution of gum arable in water, and stir into it plaster-of-Paris until the mixture becomes of a proper consistency. Apply it with a brush to the fractured edges of the china, and stick them toffether. In three davs the articles cannot be broken in the same place. The whiteness of the cement renders it doubly valuable. Stone-Mason's Cement. — Clean river sand 20 lbs., lith- arge 2 lbs., quick-lime 1 lb., linseed oil, sufficient to form a thin paste. This cement is used to mend broken pieces of stone, and after a time it becomes exceedingly hard and strong. A similar composition has been used to coat brick walls, under the name of mastic. Fire-Proof and Water-Proof Cement. — To 4 or 5 parts of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2 parts of fine iron filings free from oxide, 1 part of peroxide of manganese, ^ part of sea salt, and | part of borax. Mingle these tJior- oughly and render them as fine as possible, then reduce them to a thick paste with the necessary quantity of water. It must be used immediately. After application, it should be expo.sed to heat, gradually increasing almost to a white heat. This cement is very hard, and presents complete re- sistance alike to a red heat and boiling water. Another Method. — To equal parts of sifted peroxide of 408 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. manganese and well-pulverized zinc white, add a sufficient quantity of commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste. This mixture, when used immediately, forms a cement quite equal in hardness and resistance to that obtained by the first method. Armenian, or Jeweler's Cement. — Dissolve 5 or 6 bits of gum mastic, the size of a large pea, in as much sph'its of wine as will suffice to render it liquid; in a separate vessel dissolve as much isinglass (previously softened in water, though none of the water must be used) in rum, or other spirit, as will make a 2-oz. phial of very strong glue, add- ing two small pieces of gum ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or ground till they are dissolved ; then mix the whole with a sufficient heat. Keep it in a phial closely stopped, and when it is to be used, set the phial in boiling water. The preceding is also effectual in uniting almost all sub- stances, even glass, to polished steel. To Renew Manuscripts. — Take a hair pencil and wash the part that has been effia-ced with a solution of prussiate of potash and water, and the writing will again appear if the paper has not been destroyed. Tracivg Paper. — 1. Wash very thin paper with the following mixture: Spirits turpentine, 6 parts, by weight, resin 1 part, boiled nut oil 1 part. Apply with a soft sponge. 2. Brush over one side of a good, thin, unsized paper with a varnish made of equal parts of Canada balsam and turpentine. If requh'ed to take water-color, it must be washed over with ox-gall and dried before being used. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 409 3. Open a quire of double-crown tissue paper, and brush the first sheet with a mixture of mastic varnish and oil of turpentine, equal parts ; proceed with each sheet similarly, and dry them on lines by hanging them up singly. As the process goes on, the under sheets absorb a portion of the varnish, and require less than if single sheets were brushed separately. Transfer Paper — is made by rubbing white paper with a composition consisting of 2 oz. tallow, \ oz. powdered black-lead, \ pint linseed oil, and sufficient lamp-black to make it of the consistency of cream. These should be melted together and rubbed on the paper while hot. When dry it will be fit for use. Alloy for Journal Boices. — Copper 3 lbs., tin 3 lbs., and antimony 1 lb. Melt the copper first, then add the tin, and lastly the antimony. It should be first run into ingots, then melted and cast in the form required for the boxes. Amber, to Mend. — Smear the parts which are to be united with linseed oil, hold the oiled part carefully over a small charcoal fii-e, a hot cinder, or a gas-light, being care- ful to cover up all the rest of the object loosely with paper; when the oiled parts have begun to feel the heat, so as to be sticky, pinch or press them together, and hold them so till nearly cold. Only that part where the edges are to be united must be warmed, and even that with care, lest the form or polish of the other parts should be disturbed ; the part joined generally requires a little re-polishing. Bronzing Wood. — The wood is first covered with a uni- form coating of glue, or of drying oil, and when nearly dry the bronze powder, contained in a small bag, is dusted over it. The surface of the object is afterward rubbed with a 410 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMEXTS. piece of moist rag, or the bronze powder may be previously- mixed with the drying oil, and applied with a brush. The bronze powder can be procured at almost any drug store, and at some paint stores. To Print a Picture from the Print Itself. — The page or picture is soaked in a solution, first of potassa, and then of tartaric acid. This produces a perfect diffusion of crystals of bitartarate of potassa through the texture of the unprinted part of the paper. As this salt resists oil, the ink roller may now be passed over the surface, without transferring any part of its contents except to the printed part. Hints about Screws. — Where screws are driven into softwood and subjected to considerable strain, they are very likely to work loose, and it is often difficult to make them hold. In such cases the use of glue is profitable. Prepare the glue thick, immerse a stick about half the size of the screw and put it into the hole, then immerse the screw, and drive it home as quickly as possible. When there is an article of furniture to be hastily repaired, and no glue is at hand, bore a hole, insert the stick, fill the rest of the cavity with pulverized resin, then heat the screw sufficiently to melt the resin as it is driven in. Where screws are driven into wood for temporary purposes, they can be more easily re- moved by dipping them in oil before inserting. When buy- ing screws, notice that the heads are sound and well cut, that there are no flaws in the body or thread part, and that they have gimlet points. A screw of good make will drive into oak as easily as others into pine, and will endure having twice the force brought against it. To Make Putty. — Mix a quantity of whiting into a very stiff paste with linseed oil, rubbing and beating it well before MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 411 using. For particular purposes, as for fanlights, iron-framed green-houses, and other places where the lap or hold is very narrow, a little white-lead may be added to advantage. Colored putty has a mixture of red ochre, lamp-black, or other color with the whiting. To Make Sealing-Wax. — Red. Take 1 lb. of yellow resin, oh oz. of gum lac, 5^ oz. of Venice turpentine, and 1 oz. of vermilion. Melt the lac in a copper pan suspended over a clear fire, add the resin, pour the turpentine slowly in, and soon afterward add the vermilion, stirring the mixt- ure all the time. Form either into round sticks by rolling it out on a smooth stone slab by means of a wooden board, or into oval sticks by casting it into stone molds made in two pieces. Black sealing-wax is made by substituting either lamp- black or ivory-black in the above recipe. Cleaning Harness, or Saddles and Bridles. — If harness, wash it perfectly clean with warm water and soft soap, and when dry, apply neat's-foot oil and black dye, mixed; mix them by adding a small quantity of salts of wormwood, when they will be well blacked and pliable. At the same time, by applying the oil and dye to the bottom or under parts of the straps, and composition to the top, they will always be pliable, and have a good polish on the top. If a riding saddle, wash in cold water and soft soap until free from dirt; then apply soft soap with a woolen cloth — about 2 table-spoonfuls would be enough for a saddle — which will dry in. If the saddle is to have a yellow appearance, infuse a few cents' worth of hay saffron in about four or five table- spoonfuls of water, and apply before the soft soap, then rub on a piece of woolen cloth, or a brush, a piece of bees- wax. 412 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. and finish the saddle off with it, rubbing till a good polish is obtained. Blacking for Hmmess. — 1. Molasses | lb., lamb-black 1 oz., yeast a spoonful, sugar-candy, olive oil, gum traga- canth, and isinglass, each 1 oz., and a cow's gall. Mix with 2 pts. of stale beer, and let it stand before the fire for an hour. 2. Molasses 8 parts, lamp-black 1, sweet oil 1, gum arable 1, isinglass 1, water 32. Apply heat to the whole; when cold, add 1 oz. spirits of wine, and apply with sponge. If it should get hard, place the bottle in warm water a short time. 3. Melt 1 lb. bees-wax, stir in 4 oz. ivory-black, 2 oz. spirits turpentine, 2 oz. Prussian blue, ground in oil, and | oz. copal varnish. Make into balls. With a brush apply to harness, and polish with silk gently. Harness Composition. — Put into a glazed pipkin 2 oz. of black resin, place it on a gentle fire; when melted, add 3 oz. of bees- wax. "When this is melted, take it from the fire, add I oz. of fine lamp-black, and \ dr. of Prussian blue in fine powder; stir them so as to be perfectly mixed, and atld sufficient spirits of turpentine to form a thin paste, let it cool. To use it, apply a coat with a piece of linen rag pretty evenly all over the harness ; then take a soft polishing brush and brush it over, to obtain' a bright surface. To Destroy Bed-Bugs, Moths, and Other Vermin. — Dissolve alum in hot water, making a very strong solution; apply to furniture or crevices in the walls with paint brush. This is sure destruction to tho.se noxious vermin, and inval- uable because easily obtained, is perfectly safe to use, and leaves no unpleasant traces behind. When you suspect RECIPES FOR MAKING INK. 413 moths have lodged in the borders of carpets, wet the edges of the carpets with a strong solution ; whenever it reaches them, it is certain death. Black Ink, Non-Corrosive. — Digest in an open vessel 42 oz. of coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 oz. of gum Senegal, 18 oz. of sulphate of iron, copperas free from copper, 3 dr. of aqua ammonia, 24 oz. of alcohol, and 18 qts. of dis- tilled or rain-water. Continue the digestion until the fluid has assumed a deep black color. To make less quantity, use less of each ingredient, but in the same proportion. For cheap inks other ingredients may be substituted instead of part of the galls; logwood, catechu, sumac, and oak-bark may be used for the same purpose. Many other substances, such as elm wood, elder, chestnut, beech, willow, plum, cherry, and poplar, all contain a certain amouut of astrin- gent properties, but none of them are to be compared to galls, and are not likely to supercede them in the manufact- ure of ink so long as galls can be had for a fair price. A Cheap Invisible Ink. — Dissolve 1 fluid oz. of common oil of vitriol in a pint of soft water. Stir well and allow it to cool. Write with a clean pen. When dry it will be in- visible, held to the fire it turns an indellible black. Green Ink. — Verdisfris 2 oz., cream of tartar 1 oz., water | pt., reduce one-half by boiling, and filter, using druggist's filtering paper. Blue Jji/»:.— Chinese blue 2 oz., boiling water 1 qt., oxalic acid 1 oz. Dissolve the blue in the water, then add the acid, and it is ready at once. Soap-Bubbles. — Few things amuse children more than blowing bubbles. Dissolve I of an oz. of castile or t)il soap, cut up in small pieces, in f of a pt. of water, and boil it for 414; OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. two or three minutes; then add five oz. of glycerine. When cold, this fluid will produce the best and most lasting bubbles that can be blown. To Prevent Rusting. — 1. Boiled linseed oil will keep polished tools from rusting if it is allowed to dry on theip. Common sperm oil will prevent them from rusting for a short period. A coat of copal varnish is frequently applied to polished tools exposed to the weather. Woolen materials are the best for wrappers for metals. 2. Iron and steel goods of all descriptions are kept free from rust by the following: Dissolve I oz. of camphor in 1 lb. of hog's lard, take off the scum, and mix as much black-lead as will give the mixture an iron color. Iron and steel and machinery of all kinds, rubbed over with this mixture, and left with it on for 24 hours, and then rubbed with a linen cloth, will keep clean for months. If the machinery is for exportation it should be kept thickly coated with this during the voyage. To Prevent Lead Exploding. — Many mechanics have had their patience sorely tried when pouring melted lead around a damp or wet joint to find it explode, blow out, or scatter from the effects of steam generated by the heat of the lead. The whole trouble may be stopped by putting a piece of resin the size of the end of a man's thumb into the ladle and allowing it to melt before pouring. Simple as the secret is, many have paid S20 for the privilege of knowing it. To Repair Rubber Hose. — Cut the hose apart where it is defective, obtain from any gas-fitter a piece of ii-on pipe two or three inches long, twist the hose over it until the ends meet, wrap with strong twine, well waxed, and it will last a long time. To Keep Wagon Tires on the Wheel. — A practical THE TEMPERING SECRET. 415 mechanic suggests a method of so putting tires on wagons that they will not get loose and require resetting. He says he ironed a wagon some years ago for his own use, and before putting on the tires, he filled the felloes with linseed oil, and the tires have worn out and were never loose. This method is as follows: Use a long cast-iron heater made for the purpose; the oil is brought to a boiling heat, the wheel LS placed on a stick, so as to hang each felloe in the oil an hour. The timber should be dry, as green timber will not take oil. Care should be taken that the oil is not made hotter than a boiling heat, or the timber will be burned. Timber filled with oil is not susceptible of injury by water, and is rendered much more durable by this process. The United States Government Tempering Secret. — The following process and mixtures, patented by Garman and Siegfried, and owned by the Steel Refining and Tem- pering Co., of Boston, Mass., cost the U. S. Government $10,000 for the right of using in their shops, and is said to impart extraordinary hardness and durability to the poorest kinds of steel. Siegfried's specification reads as follows : — " I first heat the steel to a cherry red in a clean smith's fire, and then cover it with chloride of sodium (common salt), purifying the fire also by throwing in salt. I work the steel in this condition, and while subjected to this treatment, until it is brought into nearly its finished form. I then substitute for the salt a compound composed of the following ingredients, and in about the following proportions : One part by weight of each of the following substances: chloride of sodium (salt), sulphate of copper, sal-ammoniac, and sal-soda, together with | part by weight of pure nitrate of potassa (saltpeter), said ingredients being pulverized and 41 G OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. mixed ; I alternately heat the steel and treat it by covering with this mixture and hammering it until it is thoroughly refined and brought into its finished form. I then return it to the fire and heat it slowly to a cherry red, and then plunge it into a bath composed of the following ingredients, in substantially the following proportions for the required quantity: of rain-water 1 gal., alum, sal-soda, sulphate of copper, of each 1| oz., of nitrate of potassa (saltpeter) 1 oz., and of chloride of sodium (salt) 6 oz. These quantities and proportions are stated as being what I regard as practically the best, but it is manifest that they may be slightly changed without departing from the principles of my invention." U. S. Mint Test for Counterfeit Silver. — Make a solu- tion of 24 grs. nitrate of silver, 30 drops nitric acid, and 1 oz. of water; scrape the coin to be tested and apply a drop of the liquid; if the coin turns black, reject it. jT TMB \ .1^ ,— ^"^Ifg^— , ^^' --€^^ L OF BOOKING, ''^ N the following pages of the " Household Com- pendium," will be found a most concise and val- uable collection of recipes and instructions for cooking. The experienced housewife will not be slow in discovering that this department is en- tirely reliable and trustworthy. Every recipe has been tested in the kitchen and found worthy of a place in this book. In order that this Manual may be more service- able, the following arrangement of topics has been made: Kitchen utensils, soups, fish, poul- try and game, meats, vegetables, sauces, puddings, break- fasts and suppers, pies, custards and creams, ices, fruits, candy, bread and biscuits, drinks, beverages, etc., etc. 27 [417j 418 UL'Ji HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Wooden Ware. — Kitchen table, wash bench, wash tubs (three sizes), wash board, bosom board, bread board, towel roller, potato masher, wooden spoons, flour sieve, chopping bowl, soap bowl, pails, lemon squeezer, clothes wringer, clothes horse, clothes pins, clothes basket, mop, broom, and wood box. Tin Ware. — Boiler for clothes, boiler for ham, bread pan, two dish pans, preserving pan, four milk pans, two quart basins, two pint basins, two quart covered tin pails, one four-quart covered tin pail, sauce pans with covers (two iizes), two tin cups with handles, two pint molds (for rice, blanc- RECIPES FOR COOKING. 419 mange, etc.), one skimmer, two dippers (different sizes), one quart measure, pint and half -pint measures (they should be broad and low, as they are more easily kept clean), bread pans, two round jelly cake pans, two long pie pans, coffee pot, tea steeper, steamer, horse-radish grater, nutmeg grater, egg beater, cake turner, cake cutter, apple corer, potato cut- ter, flour dredge, tea canister, coffee canister, cake, bread, cracker, and cheese boxes, crumb tray, and dust pans. Iron TTare. — Range or stove, pot with steamer to fit, soup kettle, preserving kettle (porcelain), tea kettle, large and small frying pans, gem pans, iron spoons of various sizes, gridiron, griddle, waffle iron, toasting rack, meat fork, can opener, coffee mill, flat irons, hammer, tack hammer, screw driver, and' ice pick. Stone Ware. — Crocks (various sizes), bowls of pint, two quart, four quart, and six quart, six earthen baking dishes of various sizes. The basis of all good soups, is the broth of meat. This may be made by boiling the cracked joints of beef, veal, or mutton, and is best when cooked the day before it is to be eaten. After putting the meat into the pot, cover it with cold water and let it come to a boil, when it should be well skimmed. Set the meat where it will simmer slowly until it is thoroughly done, keeping the pot closely covered the while. The next day, when the soup is cold, remove the fat, which will harden on the top of the soup. After this, add the vegetables and the herbs you use for seasoning, C(X)king all well together. Before sending to the table, the 420 OUE HOMES AM) THEIR ADORNMENTS. soup should be strained. A good stock for soups may be made from shreds and bits of uncooked meat and bones, poultry, and the remains of game. When these are all put together and stewed down in the pot, the French term it covsomme, and use it chiefly in the preparation of brown soups. Soups may be varied in n>any ways, chiefly in the kinds of vegetables and different seasonings used, as in herbs, burned caramel, eggs, or slices of bread fried to a crisp in butter, which impart a savory relish. Potato Soup. — Slice and fry to a nice brown 4 large on- ions in one-fourth lb. butter in a soup pot, add 4 qts. of skim- milk, have pealed and boiled a good 3 pts. of potatoes, mash them fine and reduce smooth with the milk from your soup pot; repeat this till all the potatoes are in the soup pot; just bring to a boil, and add pepper and salt to taste. Ox- Tail SoujJ. — Take 2 ox tails and 2 whole onions, 2 carrots, 1 small turnip, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and a little white pepper, add 1 gal. water, let all boil for 2 hours; then take out the tails and cut the meat into small pieces, return the bones to the pot for a short time, boil another hour, then strain the soup, and rinse 2 spoonfuls of arrowroot to add to it with the meat cut from the bones, and let all boil for a quarter of an hour. Beef Soup. — Cut all the lean off the shank, and with a little beef suet in the bottom of the ketJtle, fry it to a nice brown; put in the bones and cover with water; cover the kettle closely; let it cook slowly until the meat drops from the bones, strain through a strainer and leave it in the dish during the night, which is the only way to get off all the fat. The day it Is wanted for the table, fry as brown as RECIPES FOB SOUPS. 421 possible 1 carrot, 1 onion, and 1 very small turnip sliced thin. Just before taking up, put in one-half tea-spoonful of sugar, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, 12 kernels of allspice, 1 small tea-spoonful of celery seed, with the vegetables, this must cook slowly in the soup 1 hour, then strain again for the table. If you use vermicelli or pearl barley, soak in water. Mutton Soup. — Boil a leg of mutton 3 hours, season to your taste with salt and pepper, and add 1 tea-spoonful of summer savory ; make a batter of 1 egg, 2 table-spoonfuls of milk, 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, all well beaten together; drop this batter into the soup with a spoon, and boil for 3 minutes. Oyster Soup. — Take 1 qt. of water, 1 tea-cupful of butter, 1 pt. of milk, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 4 crackers rolled fine, and 1 t^a-spoonful of pepper; bring to full boiling heat as soon as possible, then add 1 qt. of oysters. Let the whole come to a boiling heat quickly and remove from the fire. Another. — Pour 1 qt. of boiling water into a skillet, then add 1 qt. of good rich milk, stir in 1 tea-cupful of rolled cracker crumbs, season with pepper and salt to taste. When all come to a boil, add 1 qt. of good fresh oysters; stir well, so as to keep from scorching, then add a piece of good sweet butter about the size of an egg; let it boil up once, then remove from the fire immediately ; dish up and send to table. Tomato Soup. — Boil chicken or beef 4 hours, then strain, add to the soup one can of tomatoes and boil 1 hour. This will make four quarts of soup. Vermicelli Soup. — A knuckle of lamb, a small piece of veal, and water to cover well ; when well cooked, season with salt, pepper, herbs to your taste, and a small onion, to which 422 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. you may add Halford or Worcestershire sauce about 1 table- spoonful. Have ready one-fourth lb. of vermicelli, which has been boiled tender, strain your soup fi-oiii the meat, add the vermicelli, let it boil well and serve. Tomato Soup without Meat. — 1 qt. of tomatoes, 1 qt. of water, 1 qt. of milk. Butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Cook the tomatoes thoroughly in the water, have the milk scalding, (over water to prevent scorching). When the tomatoes are done, add 1 large tea-spoonful of saleratus, which will cause a violent effervescence. It is best to set the vessel in a pan before adtling it, to prevent waste. When the commotion has ceased, add the milk and sea.son- ing. When possible, it is best to use more milk than water, and cream instead of butter. The soup is eaten with crackers. This recipe is very valuable for those who keep abstinence days. Coi^ Soup. — 1 small beef bone, 2 qts. of water, 4 toma- toes, 8 ears of corn ; let the meat boil a short time in the water, cut the corn from the cob and put in the cobs with the cut com and tomatoes; let it boil about half an hour, remove the cobs; just before serving add the milk, which should be allowed to boil for a few moments only ; season with salt and pepper. Bean Soup>. — 1 pt. of beans, 4 qts. of water, small piece of fat beef, boil 3 hours and strain. If too thin add 1 table- spoonful of flour. Noodles for Soup. — Rub into 2 eggs as much sifted flour as they will absorb, then roll out until thin as a wafer, dust over a little flour, and then roll over and over into a roll, cut off thin slices from the edge of the roll and shake out into long strips, put them into the soup lightly and boil HOW TO COOK FISH. 493 for ten minutes, salt should be added while mixing with the flour, — about a salt-spoonful. Fish are good when the gills are red, eyes are full, and the body of the fish is fii-m and stiff. After washing them well, they should bo allowed to remain for a short time in salt water sufficient to cover them. Before cooking, wipe them dry, dredge lightly with flour, and season with salt and pepper. Salmon-trout and other small fish are usually fried or broiled; all large fish should be put in a cloth, tied closely with twine, and placed in cold water, when they may be put over the fire to boil. When fish are baked, prepare them the same as for boiling, and put in the oven on a wire gridiron, over a dripping-pan. Boiled White Fish. — Lay the fish open, put it in a dripping-pan with the back down, nearly cover with water. To one fish add 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, cover tightly and simmer (not boil) one-half hour, dress with gravy, butter, and pepper, garnish with sliced eggs. For sauce, use a piece of butter the size of an egg, 1 table-spoonful of flour, one-half pt. of boiling water; boil a few minutes, and add 3 hard- boiled eggs, sliced. Sauce for Boiled Fish. — To 1 tea-cupful of milk add 1 tea-cupful of water, put it on the fire to scald, and when hot stir in 1 table-spoonful of flour, previously wet with cold water; add 2 or 3 eggs, season with salt and pepper, a little celery, vinegar, and 3 table-spoonfuls of butter. Boil 4 or 5 eggs hard, take off" the shells, and cut in slices, and lay over the dish. Then pour over the sauce and serve. 424 OUR HOMES AX I) THEIR ADORNMENTS. Bilked Black Bass. — 8 good-sized onions chopped fine, half that quantity of bread crumlxs, butter size of hen's egg, plenty of pepper and salt, mix thoroughly Avith anchovy sauce until quite red. Stuff your fish with this compound and pour the rest over it, previously sprinkling it with a little red pepper. Shad, pickerel, and trout are good, cooked in the same way. Tomatoes can be used instead of an- chovies, and are more economical. If using them, take pork in place of butter and chop fine. Broiled White Fish. — Wash and drain the fish, sprinkle with pepper and lay with the inside down upon the gridiron,* and broil over fresh bright coals. When a nice brown, turn for a moment on the other side, then take up and spread with butter. This is a very nice way of broiling all kinds of fish, fresh or salted. A little smoke under the fish adds to its flavor. This may be made by putting two or three cobs under the gridiron. AV/,s. — Skin and parboil them, cleanse the back bone of all coagulations, cut them in pieces about 3 inches in length, dip in flour, and cook in pork fat; brown. Salt Mackerel. — Soak the fish for a few hours in luke- warm water, changing the water several times; then put* into cold water, loosely tied in cloths, and let the fish come to a ))oil, turning off the water once, and pouring over the fish hot water from the tea-kettle; let this just come to a boil, then take them out and drain them, lay them on a platter, butter and pepper them, and place them for a few moments in the oven. Serve with sliced lemons, or with any nice fish sauce. Baked Halibut or Salmon. — Let the fish remain in cold water, slightly salted, for an hour before it is time to HOW TO COOK OYSTERS. 425 cook it, place the gridiron on a dripping-pan with a little hot water in it, and bake in a hot oven ; just befoi-e it is done, butter it well on the top, and brown it nicely. The time of baking depends upon the size of the fish. A small fish will bake in about half an hour, and a large one in an hour. They are very nice when cooked as above and served with a sauce which is made from the gravy in the dripping-pan, to which is added a table-spoonful of catsup and another of some pungent sauce and the juice of a lemon. Thicken with brown flour moistened with a little cold water. Gar- nish handsomely with sprigs of parsley and current jelly. Oyster Patties. — Make some rich pufF paste and bake it in very small tin patty-pans ; when cool, turn them out upon a large dish ; stew some large fresh oysters with a few cloves, a little mace, and nutmeg; then add the yolk of one egg, boiled hard and gi-ated; add a little butter and as much of the oyster liquor as will cover them. When they have stewed a little while, take them out of the pan and set them to cool. When quite cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell of puff paste. Stetced Oysters. — Drain the liquor from 2 qts. of firm, plump oysters, mix with one small tea-cupful of hot water, add a little salt and pepper, and set over a fire in a sauce- pan. When it boils, add 1 large cupful of rich milk. Let it boil up once, add the oysters, and let it boil 5 minutes. When they ruffle add 2 table-spoonfuls of butter, and the instant it is melted and well stirred in, take off the fire. Broiled Oysters. — Drain the oysters well and dry them with a napkin. Have ready a griddle hot and well-but- tered, season the oysters, lay them on the griddle and brown them on both sides. Serve them on a hot plate with plenty of butter. 426 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Oysters a la Creme. — 1 qt. of oysters, 1 pt. of cream ; put the oysters in a double kettle, C(X)k until the milk juice begins to flow out, drain the oysters in a strainer. Put the cream on the same way; when it comes to a boil, thicken with flour wet with milk as thick as corn starch ready to mold; then put in the oysters and cook 5 minutes. Serve hot on toast. Escaloped Oysters. — Butter the dish, (common earthen pie plates are the best), cover the bottom of the dish with very fine bread crumbs; add a layer of oysters; season with pepper and salt; alternate the crumbs and oysters until you have three layers; finish with crumbs; cover the top with small pieces of butter; finish around tho edge with bread cut into small oblong pieces dipped in butter; bake half an hour; unless shell oysters, wash them thoroughly and strain. To Fry Oysters. — Use the largest and best oysters; lay them in rows upon a clean cloth and press another upon them, to absorb the moisture; have ready several beaten eggs, and in another dish some finely crushed crackers ; in the frying-pan heat enough butter to entirely cover the oys- ters ; dip the oysters first into the eggs, then into the crack- ers, rolling them over that they may become well in- crusted; drop into the frying-pan, and fry quickly to a Ught brown. Serve dry and let the dish be warm. A chafing dish is best. Stewed Triije. — Select 2 lbs. of double tripe well cleaned and ^ blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a quarter of a p(jund each, put in a clean stew-pan with 1 pt. of milk, and one of water, 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 1 tea- spoonful of pepper, 8 middle-sized onions carefully peeled; HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 427 set it on to boil, which it should do at first rather fast, then simmer till done, which will be in rather more than half an hour. Put it into a deep dish or tureen, and serve with the milk and onions. When poultry is brought into the kitchen for use, it should be kept as cool as possible. The best position in which to place it is with the breast downward on a shelf or marble slab. The crop should be taken out. Choose fowls with a thin, transparent skin, white and delicate. Time required to boil poultry : a chicken will take about 20 minutes, a fowl about 40 minutes, a small turkey 1| hours, a large turkey 2 hours or more. Preparation of Hashes, Gravies, and Sauces. — There is nothing worse for the health or for the palate than a poor hash, while a good hash is not only a favorite dish in most families, but an essential article of economy and convenience. For this reason a separate article is devoted to this subject. The following are the ways in which hashes are spoiled. The first is by cooking them. Meat, when once cooked, should only be heated. If it is again stewed or fried, it tends to make it hard or tough, and diminishes its flavor. The second is by frying the butter or gravy in which they are prepared. It has been shown that this is very injurious to the healthfulness of food. Butter and oils may be melted without changing their nature, but when cooked, they be- come much more indigestible and injurious to weak stom- achs. The third mode of injuring hashes is by putting in flour in such ways that it is not properly cooked. Flour 428 OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. dredged on to hashes while they are cooking imparts the raw taste of dough. The fourth mode is by putting in so much water as to make them vapid, or else so much grease as to make them gross. The fifth is by seasoning them with so little care, that they either have very little savory taste, or else are so hot with pepper and spice as to be unhealthy. If the housekeeper will observe these cau- tions, or see that her cook does so, she may always have good and healthful hashes. Boiled Foxvl. — Take a young fowl and fill the inside with oysters ; place in a jar and plunge into a kettle of water; boil 1| hours; there will be a quantity of gravy in the jar from the juice of the fowl, and the oysters; make this into a white sauce, with the addition of egg, cream, or a little flour and butter ; add oysters, or serve up plain with the fowl. This is very nice with the addition of a little pars- ley to the sauce. Roast Turkey w Chicken. — Having picked and drawn the fowls, wash them well in two or three waters; wipe them dry; di'edge them with a little flour inside and out, and a little pepper and salt; prepare a dressing of bread and cracker crumb.s, fill the bodies and crops of the fowls and then bake them from 2 to 3 hours; baste them frequently while roasting; stew the giblets in a saucepan; just before serving, chop the giblets fine; after taking up the chicken and the water in which the giblets were boiled, add the chopped giblets to the gravy of the roast fowl ; thicken with a little flour, which has been previou-sly wet with the water; boil up and serve in a gravy-dish. Roast chicken and tur- key should be accompanied with celery and jellies. To Boil a Turkey. — Make a stuffing for the craw of HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 429 chopped bread and butter, cream, oysters, and the yolks of iiggs ; sew it in, and dredge flour over the turkey, and put it to boil in cold water, with a spoonful of salt in it, and enough water to cover it well; let it simmer for 2 1 hours, or if small, less time; skim it while boiling. It looks nicer if wrapped in a cloth dredged with flour; serve it with drawn butter, in which put some oysters. Roast Chickens. — Wash them clean outside and inside, stuff" as directed for turkeys, and baste with butter, lard, or drippings, and i-oast them about an hour. Chickens should be cooked thoroughly. Stew the inwards till tender and till there ls but little water, chop them and mix in gravy from the dripping-pan, thicken with brown flour, season with salt, pepper, and butter. Cranberry or new- made apple sauce is good with them. Baked Chicken. — Cut the fowl open and lay it flat in a pan, breaking down the breast and the back bones, dredge with flour and season well with salt and pepper and bits of butter; put in a very hot oven until done, bast- ing frequently with melted butter, or when half done take out the chicken and finish by broiling it upon a gridiron over bright coals; pour over it melted butter and the juices in the pan in which it was baked. Dressing for Chicken or Turkey. — Chop bread crumbs quite fine, season well with pepper, salt, and plenty of butter, moisten with a very little water, and add a few oysters with a little of the liquor, if you please. The best authorities say the dressing is the finest when it crumbles as the fowl is cut. Dressing for Turkey. — One pint of soaked bread, 2 table-spoonfuls of sage, 2 table-spoonfuls of summer savory, 4.30 Orrji HOMES AND THEIR AI>ORNMEATS. 2 tea-spoonfuls of salt, 2 tea-spoonfuls of pepper, butter the size of an egg. Fried Chicken. — Cut the chicken in pieces, lay it in salt and water, changing the water several times, roll each piece in flour, fry in very hot lard or butter, season with salt and pepper, fry parsley with it also. Make a gravy of cream seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little mace, thickened with a little flour in the pan in which the chicken was fried, pour- ing off" the lard. Curi'y. — To make curry with rabbit, chicken, or any other meat, flour the meat and fry it a nice light brown, fry also 2 large onions in the same way, mix a table-spoonful of curry powder, and a small quantity of cayenne in a tea-cup, with waiin water, to the consistency of cream, and cover eveiy part of the meat with the mixture ; have ready some nice stock or thin gravy, put all together in a .stew-pan, and let it stew gently 20 minutes ; before serving, slice 2 or 3 apples, let them stew away ; this addition is thought to be a great improvement as it makes the curry milder. Some rice should be boiled very dry and served around the dish. Chicken Pie. — Stew chickens until tender, line the sides of a deep pie dish with nice pastry, put in the chicken and the water in which it has boiled (which .should be but half a pint), season with a large piece of butter, salt, and pepper, and then cover loosely with crust. While this is baking, have ready a quart can of fine oysters, put on the fire 1 pt. of rich milk (or the liquor of the oysters will do), let it come to a boil, thicken with a little flour, and season with butter, pepper, and salt; pour this over the oystei*s boiling hot; and about fifteen minutes before tlie pie is done, lift the crust and pour the oysters and all into the pie, then return to the oven to finish. HOW TO COOK POULTRY AND GAME. 431 To Roast Wild Fowl.-^Vui an onion, salt, and hot water into a pan, and baste for 10 or 15 minutes; change the pan, put in a shce of salt pork, and baste with butter and pork drippings very often, just before serving dredge lightly with flour and baste. Ducks take from 25 to 35 minutes to roast, and woodcocks and snipes 15 to 25. Do not draw or take ofT the heads of either. Garnish with fried or toasted bread, lemon, parsley, and currant jelly. Ducks. — When roasted, use dressing as for turkey, with the addition of a few slices of onion. Many cooks lay over the game slices of onion, which take away the fishy flavor, removing the onion before serving. Make a sauce with the dripping's in the pan in which the game is roasted, and to which are put the chopped giblets, being previously well cooked ; thicken the gravy with brown flour, moistened with water. Serve with currant jelly. Prairie Chickens, Partridges, and Quails. — Clean nicely, using a little soda in the water in which they are washed, rinse them and dry, and then fill them with dressing, sewing them up nicely, binding down the legs and wings with cords. Put them in a steamer over hot water, and let them cook until just done. Then place them in a pan with a little butter, set them in the oven and baste them frequently with melted butter until of a nice brown. They ought to brown nicely in about 15 minutes. Serve them on a platter, with sprigs of parsley alternating with currant jelly. Quail on Toast. — After the birds are nicely cleaned, cut them open down the back, salt and pepper them, and dredge with flour. Break down the breast and back bones, so they will lie flat, and place them in a pan with very little watei and butter in a hot oven, covei'ing them up tightly 432 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. until nearly clone. Then place them in a spider in hot butter, and fry a moment to a nice brown. Have ready slices of baker's broad, toasted and slightly buttered upon a platter. The toast should be broken down with a carvinjr knife so that it will be tender. On this place the quail, make a sauce of the gravy in the pan, thicken slightly with browned flour, and pour over each quail and the toast. Pigeon P/'e.— Make a fine putf paste, lay a border of it around a large dish, and cover the bottom with a veal cutlet, or a ver}' tender steak free from fat and bone, season with salt, cayenne pepper, and mace. Prepare as many pigeons as can be put in one layer of the dish, put in each pigeon a small lump of butter, and season with pepper and salt; lay them in the dish breast downward, and cut in slices half a dozen of hard boiled eggs, and lay in with the birds; put in more butter, some veal broth, and cover the whole with crust. Bake slowly 1^ hours. All salt meat should be put on in cold water, that the salt may be extracted while cooking. Fresh meat, which is boiled to be served with sauces at the table, sliould be put to cook in boiling watei- ; when the outer fibers contract, the inner j uices are preserved. For making soup, put the meat over in cold water, to extract the juices for the broth. In boiling meats, if more water is needed, add that which is hot, and be careful to keep the water on the meat con- stantly boiling. HOW TO COOK MEATS. 433 Remove the scum when it first begins to boil. The more gently moat boils, the more tender it will become. Allow twenty minuti's for boiling each pound of fresh meat. Roast meats require a brisk fire. Baste often. Twenty minutes is required for roasting each pound of fresh meat. The variation in roasted meats consists simply in the method of preparing- them to cook, before putting them in the oven. Some are to be larded, some stuffed with bread dressing, and others plain, only seasoning with pepper and salt. A piece of red pepper, cooked in a boiled dinner, is very nice. Roast Beef. — Prepare for the oven by dredging lightly with flour, and seasoning with salt and pepper ; place in the oven, and baste frequently while roasting. Allow a quarter of an hour for a pound of meat, if you like it rare; longer if you like it well done. Serve with a sauce, made from the dripping's in the pan, to which has been added 1 table- spoonful of Halford or Worcestershire sauce and 1 table- spoonful of tomato catsup. Beefsteak and Mushrooms. — Put in a saucepan 1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion chopped fine, a little ground sage, anil a little thyme, and put it over the fire ; when hot, shake m 2 table-spoonfuls of flour, and when it becomes brown, put in 1 gill of water, and let it boil for half an hour. Then add 3 table-spoonfuls of beef stock, a little salt, a little nut- meg and one wine-glass of sherry wine. Put in one can of mushrooms, and let it boil for 10 minutes. Pour this over a nicely broiled beefsteak. To Boil Corned Beef. — Put the beef in water enouirh to cover it, and let it heat slowly and boil slowly, and be careful to take ofl" the grease. Many think it much im- 28 434' OUE HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. proved by boiling potatoes, turnips, and cabbages with it. In this case the %'*'getables must be peeled and all the grease ca)-efully skiniincd as fast as it rises. Allow about 20 min- utes of boiling for each pound of meat. To Cook a Ham. — Boil a common-sized ham 4 or 5 iioua'S, then skin the whole and fit it for the table. Set it in an oven for half an hour, then cover it thickly with paunde eggs, two-thirds of a cup of oil, red pepper, salt and mustard to taste, the juice of 2 lemons, and last of all, 1 cup of thick cream. If the dressing is for chicken salad, use the oil or fat from the cliicken instead of sweet oil. Be sure and put the cream in last, just before sending to the table. Mint Sauce. — Mix 1 table-spoonful of white sugar to half a tea-cup of good vinegar; add the mint and let it in- fuse for half an hour in a cool place before sending to the table. Serve with roast lamb or mutton. Celery Sauce. — Mix 2 table-spoonfuls of flour with half a tea-cup of butter; have ready a pint of boiling milk; stir the flour and butter into the milk ; take 3 heads of celery, cut into small bits, and boil for a few minutes in water, then strain it off"; put the celery into the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for 5 or 10 minutes. This is very nice with boiled fowl or turkey. 4:i8 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Egg Sauce. — Take the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard; mash them with 1 tea-spoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt, 3 table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and 3 of sweet oil. A table-spoonful of catsup improves this for some. Nice for boiled iish. Tomato Sauce. — 36 ripe tomatoes, 6 green peppers, 2 onions chopped fine, 2 cujjs of sugar, 2 table-spoonfuls of salt, 2 tea-spoonfuls of groi;nd clo%x^s, 2 tea-spoonfuls of mustard, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cinnamon, and 2 cups of vinegar ; boil half a day. Fish Sauce. — ^ lb. of fresh butter, 1 table-spoonful of finely chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice , of 2 lemons. Cream the butter ; mix all well together, adding at the least 1 tea-spoonful of mayonaise. Less lemon, juice may be used if preferred. Tomato Mustard. — 1 peck of ripe tomatoes; boil with 2 onions, 6 red peppers, and 4 cloves of garlic, for 1 hour; then add one-half pt. or one-half lb. salt, 3 table-spoonfuls black pepper, one-half oz. ginger, one-half oz. allspice, one-half oz. mace, one-half oz. cloves; then boil again for 1 hour longer, and when cold add 1 pt. vinegar and one- quarter pound of mustard; and if you like it very hot, a table-spoonful of cayenne. Horse-Raclish Sauce. — 2 tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, 2 of white sugar, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and a gill of vinegar ; mix and pour over grated horse-radish. Excellent with beef. French Pudding Sauce. — Beat 4 oz. butter to a cream ; stir in one-quarter oz. brown sugar ; add the yolk of 1 i.^gg and 1 gill of wine; put it on the stove, stirring all the time till it simmers. Grate nutmeg over it before send- ing it to the table. SALADS, SA UCES, AND PICKLES. 43(> Tomato Catsup. — Boil the tomatoes until quite soft, and rub them well through a sieve; to every quart add 2 oz. shalots and large red peppers, or 1 tea-spoonful cayenne pep- per, 1 oz. bruised ginger, 1 spoonful salt, a few cloves; boil until reduced one-third; 10 minutes before taking oflT the fire add one-half pt. of vinegar to each quart. Pickled Cherries. — 5 lbs. of cherries, stoned or not, 1 qt. of vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, one-half oz. of cinnamon, one- half oz. of cloves, one-half oz. of mace ; boil the sugar and vinegar and spices together, (grind the spices and tie them in a muslin bag), and pour hot over the cherries. Spiced Currants to he Eaten with Meats. — 4 qts. cur- rants, 1 pt. of vinegar, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 table-spoonful cin- namon, 1 of allspice, 1 of cloves, 1 of nutmeg; cook 1 hour;, keep in a cool place, tightly covered. Green-Tomato Pickles. — Cut one-half pk. of green tomatoes and 6 large onions into thin slices ; let them remain in salt and water over night; then pour off the brine and put them in a preserving kettle with 4 table-spoonfuls of sugar, 4 of the best mustard, two tea-spoonfuls of grouiwi cloves, 2 of cinnamon, 1 of cayenne pepper, and one of curry powder, and let them simmer for 1 hour ; then put them in stone or glass jars. Pickled Cabbage. — Select solid heads, slice very fine, put into ajar, cover with boiling water; when cold, drain off the water, and season with grated horse-radish, salt, equal parts of black and red pepper, cinnamon, and cloves whole ; cover with strong vinegar. This is convenient and always good. Spiced Tomatoes. — To 4 lbs. of large red tomatoes, take 2 lbs. of good brown sugar, 1 pt. of cider vinegar, one-half 440 01 n HOME^ AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. oz. cloves, and one-half oz. of stick cinnamon; stew all to- gi'tlier in a preserving kettle until the tomatoes are C(Xjke(l ; take the tomatoes out and put them on dishes to cool, letting the syrup go on simmering slowly ; when the tomatoes are cold, return them to the syrup for a little while; let them become cold before putting them into the jars. The syrup must be boiled down as thick as molavsses, and poured cold over the tomatoes; tie them down with bladder or waxed paper. Chow CJww. — 2 qts. tomatoes, 2 white onions, one-half doz. gieen peppers, 1 doz. cucumbers, 2 heads of cabbage, all chopped fine ; let this stand over night ; sprinkle a tea- cup of salt in it. In the morning drain off the brine, and season with 1 table-spoonful celery seed, 1 oz. turmeric, one- half tea-.spoonf ul cayenne pepper, 1 cup brown sugar, 1 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. allspice, 1 oz. black pepper, one fourth oz. cloves, vinegar enough to cover ; boil 2 hours. Ripe Tomato Pickles. — To 7 lbs. of ripe tomatoes add 3 lbs. sugar, 1 qt. vinegar; boil them together 15 minutes; skim out the tomatoes and boil the syrup a few minutes longer; spice to suit the taste with cloves and cinnamon. ToTnatoes Whole for Winter Use. — Fill a large stone jar with ripe tomatoes, then add a few whole cloves and a little suofar ; cover them well with one-half cold vineafar and one-half wat(.M-; place a piece of flannel over the jar, well down into the vinegar, then tie down with paper. I have kept tomatoes in this way the year round, and can cheer- fully reconnnend them. Should mildew collect on the flan- nel it will not injure the tomatoes in the least. Pickled Oyster.'^. — Wash the oysters and scald them in strpng salt and water ; skim them out and throw into cold RELISHES. 441 ■water ; scald whole peppers well in vinegar ; let it get cold. Put the oysters in a stone jar; make liquor to cover them of the water they were scalded in, and vinegar. A cup of vine- gar to one quart liquor, to be used cold. Scrambled Eggs. — Beat up 6 eggs with 2 oz. of butter, 1 table-spoonful of cream of new milk, a little chopped pars- ley, and salt ; put all in a saucepan, and keep stirring over the fire until it begins to thicken, when it should be imme- diately dished on buttered toast. French Toast. — To 1 egg thoroughly beaten, put 1 cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Slice light bread, and dip into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of the milk, then brown on a hot buttered griddle, spread with butter, and serve hot. Breakfast Steak. — A nice .steak of beef or veal ; pound it, if tough, with a steak mallet; lay in a baking tin, dredge it lightly with flour, season with salt and pepper, and, if you like, a little chopped parsley ; then put into the oven and bake for 20 or 30 minutes, or until sufficiently well done; put it on the platter, spread with butter. Dredge into the juices of the meat in the baking pan a little flour, and sea- son with butter; let this boil up and pour over the steak. This is very nice. A Nice Breakfast Dish. — Mince cold beef or lamb; if beef, put in a pinch of pulverized cloves; if lamb, a pinch of summer savory to season it, very little pepper and some salt, and put it into a baking dish; mash potatoes and mix them with cream and butter and a little salt, and spread 442 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. them over the meat; beat up an egg with cream or milk, a vei-y ]ittle; spread it over the potatoes, and bake it a short time, sufficient to warm it through and brown the potatoes. Rice Cakes. — 1 tea-cup of soft boOed rice, the yolk of 1 egg, a pinch of salt, 2 table-spoonfuls of sifted flour, beaten well, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and gi'avy ; lay pie crust round the edge of the platter, and cover the same; bake a nice brown in the oven. To Steiu Mushrooms. — Peel them and put them to stew in some milk till tender; when sufficiently done, add to them some butter and flour mixed together, a little cayenne, and some salt ; part cream instead of milk will improve them. Excellent Omelet. — 6 eggs, whites and yolks beaten sep- arately; one-half pint of milk, 6 tea-spoonfuls of corn starch, 1 tea-spoonful of baking powder, and a little salt; add the whites, beaten to a stifi" froth, last; cook in a little butter. Cheese Scollop. — Soak 1 cup of dry bread crumbs in fresh milk. Beat into this 8 eggs; add 1 table-spoonful of butter and one-half pound of grated cheese ; strew upon the top sifted bread crumbs, and bake in the oven a delicate brown. An excellent relish when eaten with thin slices of bread and butter. White Corn Bread. — 1 pt. of meal thoroughly scalded with hard boiling water ; butter the size of an egg, and 1 well-beaten egg; add milk to make it just thin enough to flow over the pan. Have the batter an inch thick, and then bake. PUDDIXGS. 443, %^bb\ M/OO. Suet Puddings. — 2 cups of chopped suet, 2 of raisins, 4-. of molasses, 4 of flour, 1 of milk, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking- powder; boil 3 J hours; eat while hot. Sauce for same: 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, 1 egg, 1 table-spoonful of wine or vinegar; beat 15 minutes and heat to a scald. English Fruit Pudding. — 1 lb, currants, 1 lb. stoned raisins, 1 lb. sugar, 1 lb. suet, 2 lbs. grated or soaked bread, 6 eggs, one-half tea-spoonful saleratus, 1 tea-spoonful salt, and ] grated nutmeg ; crumb the soft part of the bread fine ; soak the crust with boiling milk, or water will do; beat up the eggs and put all together, mix thoroughly with the hands; take a square piece of cotton cloth and lay it in a tin pan, put the pudding into the cloth and tie down close; put into a pot of boiling water, and boil 5 hours ; as the water boils away, keep adding more. Chocolate Pudding. — 1 qt. milk, 3 table-spoonfuls sugar, 4 table-spoonfuls corn starch, 2| table-spoonfuls chocolate; scald the milk over hot water; dissolve the corn starch in a little scalded milk, and before it thickens add the chocolate dissolved in boiling water; stir until sufficiently cooked. Use with cream, or sauce of butter and sugar stirred to a cream. Cottage Pudding. — 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 pt. of flour, 2 table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tea-spoon- ful of soda, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream tartar, 1 egg. Rice and Apple Pudding. — 1 cup rice boiled very soft,^ stir well to keep from burning; 8 large apples, stewed; press the pulp through a sieve, mix it thoroughly with the rice; add half a tea-spoonful of butter and yolks of two eggs 444 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. well beaten; sweeten to taste. Bake. Beat the whites of the eggs and put on top. It is nicer almost cold. Baked Indian Padding. — 2 qts. scalded milk with salt, 1| cups Indian meal (yellow); 1 table-spoonful of gino-er, lotting this stand 20 minutes; 1 cup molasses, 2 eggs (sal- eratus, if no eggs), a piece of butter the size of a common walnut. Bake 2 hours. Splendid. Sago and Apple Pudding. — Boil a cup of sago in water with a little cinnamon, a cup of sugar, lemon fla- voring; cut apples into thin slices, mix them with the sago; after it is well boiled, add a small piece of butter; pour into pudding dish and bake half an hour. Orange Pudding. — Peel and cut five good oranges into thin slices, taking out all seeds; put over them a cofl'ee cup of fine white sugar. Let a pint of milk get boiling hot, by setting in hot water; add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 table-spoonful of corn starch made smooth in a little cold milk ; stir all the time, and as soon as it thickens pour it over the fi'uit. Beat the whites to a stiff" froth, add a table-spoon- ful of sugar, and spread it over the top for frosting ; set in the oven a minute to harden. Can be eaten hot, but Is best cold. Floating Island. — Put a quart of milk to boil, su- gar, salt, and flavoring to taste; separate 3 eggs; beat the whites to a stiff" froth ; drop them in the boiling milk from a table-spoon, letting them remain half a second; then take 2^ table-spoonfuls of corn starch ; put it into the boil- ing milk, let it remain 5 minutes, then add the yolks, let it boil 2 minutes, and take it off' to cool, then place it in a glass dish, and drop the whitt^s upon it with a spoonful of currant jelly on each. PUDDING SAUCES AND PIES. 445 ^^^hhi^^.<^ Sa^t^^cc^. Wine Sauce. — 2 tea-cups of sugar, 1 tea-cup of butter, stir to a cream, beat 2 eggs very light, and stir all together, add 1 cup of wine, mix and set on top of tea-kettle of boil- ing water. It must not be put on the stove, nor boil. Pudding Sauce. — 2 eggs well beaten, 1 cup pulverized sugar. When mixed pour over 1 cup boiling milk, and stir rapidly. Flavor as you please. Hard Sauce for Pudding, Rice, etc. — Take 1 tea-cup sugar, one-half tea-cup butter, stir together until light, fla- vor with wine or essence of lemon. Smooth the top with a knife, and grate nutmeg over it. Fine Puff Pastry. — 1 lb. of flour, a little more for roll- ing-pin and board, and half a pound of butter and half a pound of lard. Cut the butter and lard through the flour (which should be sifted) into small thin shells and mix with sufficient ice- water to roll easily. Avoid kneading it, and use the hands as little as possible in mixing. Plainer Pastry. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of lard, a little salt, cut through the flour and mix lightly together. Some cooks mix the lard through the flour first, and then mix with water and roll out. Cut the batter into thin sheets, fold over and lay aside, cutting off" from the roll what is used for the bottom or top crust as wanted. Lemon Pie. — The juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup of water, 1 table-spoonful corn starch, 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 446 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. and a piece of butter the size of a small egg ; boil the water, wet the corn starch with a little cold water and stir it in ; when it boils up, pour it on the sugar and butter; after it <;ools add the egg and lemon. Bake with upper and under crust. Pumpkin Pie. — 1 qt. of strained pumpkins, 2 qts. rich milk, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 2 of ginger, cooked with the pumpkins; 6 well-beaten eggs, and 1| tea-cups of sugar. Mince Pie. — 3 cups chopped cooked meat, 6 cups of apples chopped fine; make moist with boiled cider and sweeten with molasses or dark sugar; spice to your taste using cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and a very little black pepper; put currents and raisins into the pies when ready to bake. Another: — 3 lbs. of raisins, stone and chop them a little; 3 ll)s. of currants, 3 lbs. of sugar, 3 lbs. of suet chopped very fine, 2 oz. candied lemon peel, 2 oz. of candied orange peel, 6 large apples gi-ated, 1 oz. of cinna- mon, 2 nutmegs, the juice and grated rinds of three lemons, and one-half pt. of brandy. Excellent. Rhubarb Pie. — 1 cup of stewed pie-plant, 1 cup of sugar, 1 table-spoonful of flour, yolk of 1 egg; flavor with lemon; beat all together thoroughly. Do n't use pie-plant too hot for fear it will cook the egg. Bake with just an under crust, and use the white of an egg for frosting. Cocoanut Pi^;.— One-half lb. of gratcMJ cocoanut, three- quarters of a pound of white sugar, G ounces of butter, 5 *^ggs (the whites only), 2 table-spoonfuls rose-water, 1 tea- spoonful nutmeg. Cream the butter and sugar, beat till very light, and add the rose-water; then add the cocoanut HOIV TO MAKE PIES. 4,4,*J "with as little and light beating as possible ; finally whip in the stiffened whites of the eggs with a few skillful strokes and bake at once in open shells. Eat cold with powdered sugar sifted over them. These are very pretty and delicious pies. Cream Pie. — Boil nearly 1 pint of new milk; take 2 small table-spoonfuls of corn starch beaten with a little milk .; to this add 2 eggs; when the milk has boiled, stir this in slowly with 1 scant tea-cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter, and 2 tea-spoonfuls of lemon. Cakes: 3 eggs, 1 cup of white sugar, IJ cups of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of baking powder, mix it in flour; 3 table-spoonfuls of cold water; bake in two pie pans in a quick oven ; split the cake while hot, and spread in the cream. Cranheri^ Tart. — Take cranberries, pick and wash them in several waters, and put them into a dish with the juice of half a lemon, one-quarter of a pound of moist sugar or pounded loaf sugar to 1 qt. of cranberries; cover it with puff paste or short crust, and bake it three-quarters of an hour. If short crust is used, draw it from the oven 5 minutes before it is done, and ice it ; return it to the oven, and send it to the table cold. Custard Pie. — Make a custard of the yolks of 3 eggs with milk, season to taste; bake it in an ordinary crust; put it in a brick oven, that the crust may not be heavy, and as soon as that is heated remove it to a place in an oven of a more moderate heat, that the custard may bake slowly and not curdle; when done, beat the whites to a froth ; add sugar and spread over the top, and return to the oven to brown slightly ; a small pinch of salt added to a cus- tard heightens the flavor ; a little soda in the crust prevents it from being heavy. Very nice. 448 OUB HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Rice Ctbstard.-^To half a cup of rice, add 1 qt. of milk and a little salt; steam 1 hour, or until quite soft; beat the yolks of 4 eggs with 4 table-spoonfuls of white sugar; add this just before taking off the rice; stir in thoroughly, but do not let it boil any more; flavor with vanilla. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with sugai-; after putting the mixture into the pudding dish in which you serve it, put the whites over it, and let it slightly brown in the oven. Boiled Custard. — 2 table-spoonfuls of corn starch to 1 qt. of milk; mix the corn starch with a small quantity of the milk and flavor it ; beat up 2 eggs. Heat the remainder of the milk to oiear boiling, then add the mixed corn starch, the eggs, 4 table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little butter and salt. Boil it 2 minutes, stirring briskly. Apple Custard. — Take 6 tart apples, pare and quarter them, put into a baking dish with 1 cup of water ; cook until tender, but not to pieces, then turn them into a pudding dish and sprinkle sugar over to cover them ; beat 8 eggs with sugar, mix with them 3 pts. of milk and a little nut- meg; turn it over the apples, and bake 25 miautes. Trifle. — Slice sponge cake into thin layers spread with jam, soak in brandy or wine; put into a deep dish; make a thin custard of 1 qt. milk and 3 eggs; sweeten to taste, and pour over the cake. Take one-quarter pound almonds, pour boiling water on them so as to remove the peel, cut fine, and sprinkle o\'er the custard; take 1 pt. of cream, whipped and sweetened, and lay over the custard. Cocoanut Drops. — To one grated cocoanut, add half its BEE A D - MA KING. 449 weight in sugar and the white of one egg, cut to a stiff froth ; mix thoroughly and drop on buttered white paper or tin sheets. Bake 15 minutes. ^4 Nice Dessert Disli. — Fill a quart bowl with alternate layers of thinly sliced red apples and sugar, and add half a cup of water, cover Avith a saucer, held in place by a weight; bake slowly three hours; let it stand until cold, and you will turn out a round mass of clear red slices, im- bedded in firm jelly. For an accompaniment to a dessert of blanc mange, rennet custard, cold rice pudding, or sim- ilar dishes, or even with nice bread and butter, there is^ nothing better. Chocolate Caramels. — 1 cup of grated chocolate, 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of milk, and a small piece of butter. Boil for about 20 minutes, stirring all the time ; pour into a buttered pan, and when nearly cold mark off in small squares. Charlotte Russe. — Take 1 qt. of thin cream, sweeten and flavor, whip the cream until all is a froth ; then take half a box of gelatine, put in as little cold water as possible to soak, and set on the stove to melt; let the gelatine cool before putting into the cream. Have a dish ready lined with cake or lady-fingers, pour the cream into it. and set on ice until ready for use. In the composition of good bread there are three impor- tant requisites, — ^good flour, good yeast, and strength to knead it well. Flour should be white and dry, crumbling easily again after it is pressed in the hand. 29 ^50 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. A. very good method of ascertaining the quality of yeast will be to add a little flour to a very small (quantity, setting it in a warm place. If in the course of 10 or 15 minutes it rises, it will do to use. When you make bread, first set the sponge with warm milk or water, keeping it in a warm place until quite light. Then mold this sponge by adding flour into one large loaf, kneading it well. Set this to rise again, and when suffi- ciently light mold it into smaller loaves, let it rise again, then bake. Care should be taken not to get the dough too fjtiff" with flour; it should be as soft as it can be to knead well. T(j make bread or biscuits a nice color, wet the dough over the top with water just before putting into the oven. The flour should always be sifted. Yt'.asf. — 6 good potatoes grated raw, a little hop tea, 1 qt. of boiling water, three-fourths cup of brown sugar, one- half tea-spoonful of salt ; when cold, add yeast to make it rise. Keep it covered and in a cool place. Another. — Put 2 table-spoonfuls of hops into a muslin bag and boil them in S qts. of water for a few minutes; have I'cady 1 qt. of hot mashed potatoes, put in 1 cup of flour, 1 tabl(!-spoonful of sugar, and 1 of salt; pour over the mixture tli(; lx)iliug hop water, strain thi-ough a colander, put 1 pt. or less of fresh baker's yeast, or 2 cakes of }-east, in while it is warm, and set it in a warm place to rise. This yeast will keep 3 or 4 weeks, if set in a cool place. In n)ak- ing it from time to time, use a bowl of the same to raise the fresh with. Boston. Brotvn Bread. — To make 1 loaf: R3-e meal un- • sifted, half a pt. ; Indian meal sifted, 1 ])t. ; sour milk 1 pt. ; molasses half a gill. Add 1 tea-spoonful of salt, 1 tea-spoon- BBS AD -MAKING. 45 1 ful of soda dissolved in a little hot water, stir well, put in a greased pan, let it rise 1 hour, and steam 4 hours. Bread. — Take 4 qts. of sifted flour, 1 tea-cupful of yeast, a pinch of salt, and wet with warm milk and water till stiff' enough to knead. Work it on the board until it requires no more flour. If made at nio^ht the bread will be liofht enough to work over and put in pans early in the morning. This quantity will make two large loaves. One-third of the lump may be taken for rolls, which can be made by work- ing in butter the size of an egg, and setting aside to rise again; when light the second time make out in oblong shapes ; cover them with a cloth and let them rise again. As soon as they break apart, bake in a quick oven. They will not fail to be nice if they are baked as soon as they seam. ThLs Ls the great secret of white, flaky rolls. Two or three potatoes will improve the bread. Good housekeep- ers always have flour .sifted in readiness for use, and never use it in any other way. Mujffins. — 1 table-spoonful of butter, 2 table-spoonfuls sugar, 2 eggs; stir all together; add 1 cup of sweet milk, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, flour to make a stiff" bat- ter. Bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. Waffles. — 1 qt. of sweet or sour milk, 4 eggs, two- thirds of a cup of butter, one-half a tea-spoonful of salt, 3 tea-spoon- fuls of baking powder; flour enough to make a nice batter. If you use sour milk leave out the baking powder and use 2 tea-spoonfuls of soda. Splendid. Corn Bread. — One-half pt. of buttermilk, one-half pt. of sweet milk, sweeten the sour milk with one-half tea- spoonful of soda; beat 2 eggs, whites and yolks together; pour the milk into the eggs, then thicken with about 9 table- 452 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. spoonfuls of sifted com meal. Put the pan on the stove with a piece of lard the size of an egg ; when melted, pour it in the batter. By stirring this lard it will grease the pan to bake in. Add a tea-spoonful of salt. Graham Biscuits. — 1 qt. of Graham flour, 3i heaping tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 tea-spoonful of salt, and 1 of butter. Make into soft dough with milk. Soda Biscuits. — To each qt. of flour add 1 table-spoon- ful of shortening, one-half tea-spoonful of salt, and 3J heap- ing tea-spoonfuls of good baking powder; mix baking powder thoroughly through the flour, then add the other ingredients. Do not knead, and bake quick. To use cream tartar and soda, take the same proportions without the baking powder, using instead 2 heaping tea-spoonfuls cream tartar and 1 of soda. If good they will bake in five minutes. Strawberry Shortcake. — Make good biscuit crust, bake in two tins of same shape and size, mix berries with plenty of sugar, open the shortcake, butter well and place the berries in layers, alternated with the crust; have the top layer of berries, and over all put charlotte russe or whipped cream. Orange Shortcake. — Make a nice shortcake, spread in layers of sliced oranges with sugar and a little cream. To be eaten with sweetened cream. Apple Fritters. — 1 tea-cupful of sweet milk, 1 table- spoonful of sweet light dough, dissolved in milk, 3 eggs beaten separately, 1 tea-sjwonful of salt, 1^ tea-cupfuls of flour, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, the grated peel of a lemon, and peeled apples sliced without the core. Drop into hot lard with a piece of apple in each one, and sprinkle with powdered or spicod sugar. Let them stand after making and they will be lighter. Good. BBE AD- MAKING. 453 Buckwheat Calces. — 1 qt. of buckwheat flour, one-half a tea-cupful of corn meal or wheat flour, a little salt, and 2 table-spoonfuls of syrup. Wet these with cold or warm water to a thin batter, and add, lastly, 4 good table-spoon- fuls of baking powder. Fritters. — 1 pt. sweet milk, 4 eggs, 1 qt. flour and 3 tea-spoonfuls baking powder sifted together. Serve warm with maple syrup. Rolls. — To the quantity of light bread dough that you would take for twelve persons, add the white of 1 egg well beaten, 2 table-spoonfuls of white sugar, and 2 table-spoonfuls of butter ; work these thoroughly together ; roll out about one-half an inch thick; cut the size desired, and spread one with melted butter and lay another upon the top of it. Bake delicately, when they have risen. French Molls. — 1 qt. flour, 2 eggs, one-half pt. milk, 1 table-spoonful of yeast, knead well ; let it rise till morning. Work in 1 oz. of butter and mold in rolls; bake imme- diately. Cream Calces. — 6 eggs, beaten separately, one-half pt. of sour cream, 1 pt. of sweet milk, 1 and one-half tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, flour enough to make a thin batter; bake in cups. Mush. — Indian or oatmeal mush is best made in the fol- lowing manner: Put fresh water in a kettle over the fire to boil, and put in some salt; when the water boils, stir in handful by handful corn or oatmeal until thick enough for use. In order to have excellent mush, the meal should be allowed to cook well, and long as possible while thin, and befoi'c the final handful is added. When desired to be fried for breakfast, turn into an earthen dish and set away to 4;-, 4 OUR HKJMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. cool. Then cut in slices when you wish to fry; dip each piece in beaten eggs and fry on a hot griddle. In making cake, it is very desirable that the materials be of the finest quality. Sweet, fresh butter, eggs, and good flour are the first essentials. The process of putting together is also quite an important feature, and where other methods are not given in this work by contributors, it would be well for the young housekeeper to observe the following direc- tions: Never allow the butter to oil, but soften it by putting it in a moderately warm place before you commence other preparations for your cake ; then put it into an earthen dish (tin, if not new, will discolor your cake as you stir it) and add your sugar ; beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks of the eggs, then the milk, and lastly the beaten whites of the eggs and flour. Spices and liquors may be added after the yolks of the eggs are put in, and fruit should be put in with the flour. The oven should be pretty hot for small cakes, and mod- erate for larger. To ascertain if a large cake is sufficiently baked, pierce it with a broom-straw through the center ; if done, the straw will come out free from dough ; if not done, dough will adhere to the straw. Take it out of the tin about fifteen minutes after it is taken from the oven, not sooner, and do not turn it over on the top to cool. Icing. — The following rules should be observed where boiled icing is not used: — Put the whites of your eggs in a shallow earthen dish, BECIPES FOR CAKE. 455 and allow at least a quarter of a lb., or sixteen table-spoon- fuls, of the finest white sugar for each egg. Take part of the sugar at first and sprinV;!^ over the eggs; beat them for about half an hour, stirring in gradually the rest of the sugar, then add the flavor. If you use the juice of a lemon, allow more sugar. Tartaric acid and lemon juice whiten icing. It may be shaded a pretty pink with strawberry syrup, or colored yellow by putting the juice and rind of a lemon in a thick muslin bag and squeezing it hard into the figg and sugar. If the cake is well dredged with flour after baking, and then carefully wiped before the icing is put on, it will not run, and can be spread more smoothly. Put frosting on the cake in large spoonfuls, commencing at the center, then spread it over the cake with a large knife, dipping it occa- sionally in cold water. Dry the frosting on the cake in a cool dry place. Boiled Icing. — 1 pt. granulated sugar, moisten thor- oughly with water sufficient to dissolve it when heated, and let it boil until it threads from the spoon, stirring often; while the sugar is boiling, beat the whites of 2 eggs tiU they are firm, then when thoroughly beaten, turn them into a deep dish, and when the sugar is boiled, turn it over the whites, beating all together rapidly until of the right con- sistency to spread over the cake. Flavor with lemon, if pre- ferred. This is sufficient for two loaves. Chocolate Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 1 cup of milk, 3 cups of sugar, 4 cups of flour, 6 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar; bake in layers like jelly cake. Icing for cake, to place between: 1 cup of sugar, 1 cake of chocolate, and the whites of 2 eggs whipped together. 456 OUR HOMEt^ AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Cocoanut Cake. — 1 cup of butter, 3 of sugar, 1 of milk, 4 of flour, 1 tea-spoonful of soda, 2 of creain of tartar, 5 eggs; bake in layers like jelly cake. Icing to place be- tween the layers : Half a lb. of white sugar to the whites of 2 eggs, whip the eggs, add the grated cocoanut, and place between the layers. Wedding Cake. — 5 lbs. of seeded raisins, 2 lbs of cur- rants, 1 lb. of citron, 12 eggs, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar (brown), 1 cofFee-cup of molasses, a little brandy, 1 tea-cup of spices. Cheap Good Galce. — 1 cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of butter, three-fourths cup of cold water. If cups of flour, whites of 2 eggs, 1 tea-spoonful of lemon, baking powder used. Gold Cake. — One-half cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, one-half cup of milk, 3 of flour, 3 tea-spoonfuls of baking powdei", and yolks of 4 eggs. For the silver cake u.se the same recipe, only in place of the yolks of eggs use the whites of 4 eggs. For marble cake, same recipe, using 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 cup of molasses, and some spices, and drop it in the dish on the white cake or silver recipe. Jelly Cake. — 3 eggs, 1 small tea-cupful of sugar, 1 cup of flour, whites and yolks of the eggs beaten together; flavor, and bake in 2 layers, in a (j[uick oven. Fridt CaJce. — 2 lbs. of stoned raisins, 2 lbs. of currants, 1 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of sugar, IJ Ib.s. of flour, 10 eggs, 1 wine-glass of brandy, 1 wine-glass of wine, 1 table-spoonful of cloves, 1 table-spoonful of allspice, 2 table-spoonfuls of cinnamon, 1 nutmeg, 1 tea-spoonful of sweet almond meats blanched and cut in slices, 2 oz. of candied lemon, 2 oz. of RECIPES FOB CAKE. 457 citron; a little molasses improves it, nearly a tea-cupful; flour the fruit, using that weighed out for the cake; put a half tea-spoonful of soda or 1 tea-spoonful of baking-powder with it on the fruit ; bake 3 hours, slowly. Frosting for Cake. — 1 cup frosting sugar, 2 table-spoon fuls of water, boiled together ; take it off the stove and stir in the white of 1 egg beaten to a stiff froth ; stir all together well ; then frost your cake with it, and you will never want a nicer frosting than this. Cream Filled Cakes. — These delicious cakes are very easily made if care is taken to have the water boiling. Measure out one-half pt. and put in a small kettle; immedi- ately after it comes to a boil again put in two-thirds of a cup of butter and 1 and one-half cups of fiour ; stir briskly for a moment, leaving it over the fire ; remove this mixture and place in a dish where it will get entirely cold ; beat 5 large fresh eggs very thoroughly, then stir in your cold mixture a spoonful at a time; stir it all until smooth and free from lumps ; drop them upon a greased dripping-pan in .small pear-shaped cakes; bake half an hour in a real hot oven; don't be afraid they will burn unless you see them doing so. When done they will be hollow inside, of a bright brown color; if not well done they will flatten. The oven must be hot when you put them in, and if kept so success is sure. Filling or Cream : Put a little more than 1 pt. of milk in a pail and set it in boiling water ; beat 2 eggs, two-thirds cup of corn starch, one full cup sugar, one-half tea-spoonful salt, and some vanilla, thoroughly together; add a full half cup of milk, and stir all into yoar boiling milk; it should be very thick ; cut open your cakes near the bottom and fill very full of cream ; be sure the cream is cold. 458 OUli HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Glittering squares of colored ice, Sweetened with syrupa, tinctured with spice ; Creams, and cordials, and sugared dates ; Syrian apjjles, Othmanee quinces, Limes and citrons and apricots, And wines that are known to Eastern princes. And all that the curious palate could wish, Pass in and out of the cedarn doors. — T. B. Aldrich. Directions for Freezing. — Use 1 part of coarse table salt to 2 parts of ice broken into pieces about the size of a walnut. This should be firmly packed around the cream pail to the height of the freezer. For 3 pints of cream, 1^ pints of water should be poured over the ice in the freezer, and for every additional quart of cream 1 pint of water should be added to the ice after packing. When there is no ice-cream freezer convenient, ices may be frozen by putting the cream to be frozen in a tin pail with a close cover. The ice and salt for packing may be put into a larger pail and packed firmly around the pail of cream to be frozen. Let this stand to chill for 20 or 30 minutes, then remove the cover and stir the freezing mixture within until stiflT. Then repack, cover the whole closely with a woolen cloth or car- pet and leave for an hour or two in a cool place. Currant Ice. — 1 pt. of currant juice, 1 lb. of sugar, and 1 pt. of water ; put into freezer, and when partly frozen add the whites of 3 eggs well beaten. Orange and Lemon Ices. — The rind of 3 oranges grated and steeped a few moments in a little more than a pint of water; strain one pint of this on a pound of suj^^ar and PRESERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. 45 D then add 1 pint of orange or lemon juice; pour into the freezer, and when half frozen add the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Straivberry Ice-Gream. — Mash with a potato pounder in an earthen bowl, 1 qt. of strawberries with 1 lb. of sugar, rub it through the colander and add 1 qt. of sweet cream and freeze. Very ripe peaches or coddled apples may be used instead of strawberries. Ice-Cream. — 1 pt. milk, yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. sugar, 1 table-spoonful corn starch; scald until it thickens; when cool, add 1 pt. whipped cream and the whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff. Sweeten to taste, flavor and freeze. " Fruit of all kinds, in coat Rough, or smooth rind, or bearded husk, or shell, She gathers tribute large, and on the board Heaps with unsparing hand. " — Paradise Lost. Bring me berries, or such cooling fruit As the kind, hospitable woods provide. — Cowper. Fruits for preserving should be carefully selected, remov- ing all that are imperfect. They are in the best condition when not fully ripe, and as soon as possible after they are picked. Small fruits should not lie allowed to stand over night after they are picked when they are to be preserved. Use only the finest sugar for preserving. When fruit is sealed in glass cans, wrap paper of two or three thicknesses around the cans. The chemical action of light will affect the quality of the preserves when perfectly air-tight. With this precaution, glass cans are preferable to any other for 460 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. preserving fruit. One-half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, is a good rule for eanncid fruit, although many house- keepers use but one-quarter of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. An excellent rule for canning the larger fruits, as peaches, pears, etc., is to place them in a steamer over a kettle of boil- ing water, first laying a cloth in the bottom of the steamer. Fill this with the fruit and cover tightly. Let them steam for 15 minutes, or until they can be easily pierced with a fork, (some fruits will require a longer time). Make a syrup of sugar of the right consistency. As the fruit is steamed, drop each for a moment into the syrup, place in the cans, having each one-half full of fruit, and fill up with the hot syrup, then cover and seal. Preserved Peaches. — Select Peaches of fine quality and firm. If t<30 ripe they are not likely to keep perfectly. Pare and place them in a steamer over boiling water and cover tightly; an earthen plate placed in the steamer under the fruit will preserve the juices which afterward may be strained and added to the syrup. Let them steam for 15 minutes or until they can be easily pierced with a fork ; make a syrup of the first quality of sugar, and as the fruit is steamed, drop each peach into the syrup for a few seconds, then take out and place in the cans ; when the cans are full, pour the hot syrup over the fruit, and seal immedi- ately. Inexperienced house-wives will do well to remember that the syrup should be well skimmed before being poured over the fruit. We prefer the proportions of half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit for canning, although many excel- lent house-keepers use less. This rule is excellent for all the large fi'uits — as pears, quinces, apples, etc. PRESERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. 461 Preserved Pears. — To 6 lbs. of pears, 4 lbs. of sugar, 2 coffee cups of water, add the juice of 2 lemons, and the rind of 1, a handful of whole ginger ; boil all together for 20 minutes, then put in your pears and boil till soft, say about a quarter of an hour. Take them out and boil your syrup a little longer. Then put back your fruit and give it a boil; bottle while hot, adding a little cochineal to give it a nice color. Preserved Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good brown sugar and apples; peel, core, and cut the apples into small square pieces ; make a syrup of 1 pt. of water to 3 lbs. of sugar, boil until pretty thick, then add the apples, the grated peel of a lemon or two, a little whole white ginger (if liked) ; boil until the apples are clear and begin to fall. Preserved Cherries. — Stone the fruit, weigh it, and for every pound take three-fourths pound sugar. First dissolve the sugar in water in the proportion of 1 pt. of water to 1| lbs, of sugar; then add the fruit and let it boil as fast as possible for half an hour, till it begins to jelly. As soon as it thickens put into pots, cover with brandied paper, next the fruit, and then cover closely from the air. Canned Cherries. — Prepare in the same manner, allow- ing but half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit; after putting the fruit into the syrup let it scald (not boil hard) for 10 or 15 minutes, and then can and seal. A few of the cherry stones tied in a muslin bag and put into the syrup to scald with the fruit, impart a fine flavor ; they should not be put into the jars with the fruit. This method is excel- lent for use with all the small fruits, as strawberries, rasp- berries, and also plums. Canned Strawberries. — After the berries are pulled, let as many as can be put carefully into the preserving kettle at 462 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. once, be placed on a platter. To each pound of fruit add three-fourths of a pound of sugar; let them stand 2 or 3 hours, till the juice is drawn from them ; jjour it into the ket- tle and let it come to a boil, remoA^ing the scum which rises; tlien put in the berries very carefully. As soon as they come to a boil, put them into warm jars, and seal while boiling hot. Quince Preserves. — Pare, core, and quarter your fruit, then weigh it and allow an equal quantity of white sugar. Take the peelings and coriis and put into a preserving kettle ; cover them with water and boil for half an hour ; then strain through a hair sieve and put the juice back into the kettle and boil the quinces in it a little at a time until they are tender; lift out as they are done with a drainer and lay on a dish ; if the liquid seems scarce, add more water. When all are done throw in the sugar and allow it to boil 10 min- utes before putting in the quinces ; let them boil until they change color, say I4 hours, on a .slow fire; while they are boiling, occasionally slip a silver spoon under them to see that they do not burn, but on no account stir them. Have two fresh lemons cut in thin slices, and when the fruit is being put in jars, lay a slice or two in each. Canned Tomatoes. — Wash your tomatoes, and cut out any places that are green or imperfect; then cut them up and put over to cook with a little salt; boil them till per- fectly soft, then strain through a colander; turn them back to cook, and when they have come to boiling heat, pour them into stone jugs (one or two gallon jugs, as you prefer). They will keep a day or two in winter if all arc not used at a time ; put the cork in, and have some canning cera(mt hot and pour over the cork. The jug must, of course, be hot when the tomatoes are poured in. PRESERVING AND CANNING FRUITS. 40:^ Artificial Honey. — Mix together 10 lbs. white sugar, 2 lbs. clear bees' honey, 1 qt. hot water, half an ounce of cream tartar ; when cool, flavor with 2 or 3 drops otto of roses and sprinkle in a handful of clear yellow honey-comb bioken up. This will deceive the best judges, and is perfectly healthful. Grape Jam. — Take your grapes, separate the skin from the pulp, keeping them in separate dishes, put the pulps into your preserving kettle with a tea-cup of water; when thor- oughly heated run them thorough a colander to separate the seeds ; then put your skins with them and weigh ; to each pound of fruit, put three-fourth of a pound of sugar; add merely water enough to keep from burning; cook slowly three-foui'ths of an hour. This is a delicious jam, and worth the trouble. Blackberry Jam. — To each pound of fruit add three- fourths of a pound of sugar; mash each separately; then put together and boil from one-half to three-fourths of an hour. Raspbei^'y Jam. — To 5 or 6 pounds of fine red raspber- ries (not too lipe) add an equal quantity of the finest quality of white sugar. Mash the whole well in a preserv- ing kettle; add about 1 qt. of currant juice (a little less will do), and boil gently until it jellies upon a cold plate; then put into small jars; cover with brandied paper; and tie a thick white paper over them. Keep in a dark, dry, and cool place. Orange Marmalade. — Take 7 oranges and 5 lemons; boil in water 2 or 3 hours; throw away the water, and open the oranges and lemons, taking out the seeds and preserving all the pulp and juice possible; cut the rinds in small strips or 464 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. chop them, but cutting in strips Is better ; weigh it all when this is done ; then put 3 lbs. of sugar in 2 of the pulp, and boil slowly till clear. Siberian Crab Jelly. — Boil a peck of crab-apples for 2 hours in as much water as will cover them, then put them into a jelly bag and allow to drain, (do not squeeze them); to each pint of syrup, put 1 lb. of loaf sugar, and boil for half an hour. Select the reddest crabs you can find, and the jelly will be a beautiful color. Chocolate Caramels. — 2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup chocolate grated fine, 1 cup boiled milk, 1 table-spoonful flour, butter the size of a large English walnut ; let it boil slowly and pour on flat tins to cool; mark ofi* while warm. The bubbling and loud hissing um, Tlirows up a steaming column ; and the cups That cheer, but not inebriate, wait on each ; So let us welcome peaceful evening in. — Cowper. Tea. — When the water in the tea-kettle begins to boil, have ready a tin tea-steeper; pour into the tea-steeper just a very little of the boilmg water, and then put in tea, al- lowing one tea-spoonful of tea to each person. Pour over this boiling water until the steeper is a little more than half full; cover tightly and let it stand where it will keep hot, but not to boil. Let the tea infii.se for 10 or 15 minutes, and then pour into the tea urn, adding more boiling water, in the proportion of one cu]) of water for t^very tea-spoonful BEVERAGES. 4(55 of dry tea which has been infused. Have boiling water in a water-pot, and weaken each cup of tea as desii-ed. Do not use water that has boiled long. Spring water is best for tea, and filtered water next best. Tea a la Russe. — Pare and slice fresh, juicy lemons; lay a piece in the bottom of each cup, sprinkle with white sugar, and pour hot, strong tea over. Or the lemon may be sent around in slices with the peel on. No cream is used. Roasting Co fee. — This process should be carefully watched and superintended. The quality and flavor of the coffee depends largely upon the method of roastiag. When the berry crackles and becomes crisp, it is sufficiently roasted. Just as soon as it is taken from the roaster, it should be placed in several thicknesses of flannel to preserve the oil and aroma. When cool, place it in an air-tight cannister. Cream Nectar. — 2| lbs. of white sugar, one-eighth lb. of tartaric acid, both dissolved in 1 qt. of hot water; when cold, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs, stirring well; bottle for use. Put 2 large spoonfuls of this syrup in a glass of cold water, and stir in it one-fourth of a spoonful of bicar- bonate of soda. Any flavor can be put in the syrup. An excellent drink for summer. Raspberry Acid. — Dissolve 5 oz. of tartaric acid in 2 qts. of water; pour it upon 12 lbs. of red raspberries in a large bowl ; let it stand 24 hours ; strain it Avithout pressing ; to 1 pt. of this liquor add 1| lbs. of white sugar; stir until dissolved. Bottle, but do not cook for several days, when it is ready for use. Tavo or three table-spoonfuls in a glass of ice water will make a delicious beverajje. Raspberry Vinegar. — To 4 qts. red raspberries, put 30 4G6 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. enough vinegar to cover, and let them stand 24 houre; scald and .strain; add 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pt. of juice; boil it 20 minutes, and bottle; it is then ready to use and will keep for ycsai^s. To one glass of water add a great spoonful. It i« mucli relished by the sick. Very nice. Hlachhe.mj Syrui-). — To 1 pt. of juice, put 1 lb. of white sugar, one-half o7,. of powdered cinnamon, one-fourth oz. mace, and 2 tea-spoonfuls cloves; boil all together for 15 minutes, then strain the syrup, and add to each pint a glass oi French brandy. Red Cwrrant Wlw. — ^Foi- every gallon of water take 1 trallon of currants oR' the stalks, bruise well and let them stanil over niglit. Next morning ma.sh them well with your liands and strain through a hair sieve. To every gallon of xhe liquor a (s) •HE J^RT OF ilYING JIlNNERS. ^ T has been said that the social progress of a com- munity is in exact proportion to the number of I its dinner parties ; and in all ages the friendship of nations, as well as of individuals, has been ce- mented, and enmities forgotten, in the allure- ments of dining. It is an undeniable fact that more enduring alliances have been struck by diplomatists across the dinner table than were ever agreed upon in ministerial cabinets. Talle- rand regarded the dinner table as the best place for the transaction of diplomatic business. And can any one doubt that much of the culture of the world, with all its elements of refined manners, intellectual progress, and taste for science, literature, and the fine arts, is largely dependent upon the social gatherings at the dinner tables of the metropolitan cities? The rules which regulate dinner giving and dining in America, have been adopted from both England and France, [467] 468 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. as they have been found to fit our social conditions ; and the dinner giver who attempts to be original is likely to fail, be- cause he disturbs the harmony which established customs insure. The path of safety here, as in all social matters, is^ the beaten track. The first consideration, when a dinner has been decided on, is a discreet selection of guests. The proper limit as to- numbers will be decided by the good sense of the host and hostess, the size of the table and dining-room being impor- tant considerations, though the number of guests should not exceed twelve. Thirteen is an ominous number, and there are superstitious people who would not sit at the table when thirteen were present, from the belief that some fatality might soon happen to one of their number. The aim of the host and hostt>ss should be to bring to- gether such people as are of equal intellectual attainments, and of like social standing. Guests are wanted who will affect each other pleasantly. They need not be friends, nor even acquaintances, but they must be congenial, and have common tastes and sympathies. Good talkers are invalu- able, and firood listeners no less so. The test of the success of a dinner party is the manner in which the conversation is sustained at the table. A constant flow of talk and mer- riment is proof that the guests have been wisely chosen, while embarrassing halts and dead pauses in conversation denote that they are not in sympathy with one another. The invitations are issued in the name of the host and hostess from three to ten days in advance. They are sent by messenger, and not by mail, only when the distance is too great to send a trusty servant. An invitation to a din- ner party requires a prompt answer, and if it is accepted DINNER INVITATION. 469 the engagement must be sacredly kept, as the non-arrival of a guest means an empty chair at the table, a lady with- out an escort, or a gentleman without a lady. If in doubt, it is better to decline; but if an invitation has been ac- cepted, and an insurmountable obstacle intervenes, an ex- planation must be made at once, so that the vacant place in the little circle may be filled. The following is the form of the invitation: — J^fTi. and Jlflu. WUfimv ^UUon i^ii^t tfve jiUuMi'i^ of JWl. and J^l4. c^tvaid ^incCaU'i comjvan^ at dinn^, on W^dneida^, ^a^- uui^ 26, of &ewn o'cCocfc. 2S Lafayette Aven^te. The day of the week and the hour are written in full, but figures may be used for the day of the month. If the dinner is given in honor of some friend or stranger, a second card is inclosed in the envelope with the invitation on which is inscribed : — <^0 m^i of J{ew Volfc ({ifij. 470 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. The following is a good form for an acceptance, which must be sent immediately : — J^. and JM^. c^ouHi4d ^inc((Ui acc^jit wit ft' jif^a4ui0 t^e invifn^'ion of J^i. and JWi^. WifCiam (^l^ton, to dinn^l, at umn o'cCoc^, on W^ne^dai^, Jannai^ 26. If the invitation cannot be accepted, the persons invited send a reply immediately with regrets, and state reasons of their inability to accept, which may be either on account of sickness in the family, intended absence, or some previous- enofatjement. Guests may aiTive any time during the half hour be- fore the time appointed for dinner. This interval gives time for introductions and greetings. To delay beyond the appointed hour is unpardonable rudeness. Fifteen minutes is the longest time a hostess is required to wait for a tardy comer. She is an excellent hostess who can make conversation general before dinner. " To this end," says one writer, " have some novelty at hand, either in the shape of a per- sonage whom every guest wants to meet, or a new picture, bric-a-brac, a rare plant, the latest spiciest news to tell, or a pretty girl to bring forward." " Whatever the attraction, present it early, to prevent monotoney, and if the half or quarter hour before the guests assemble around the table can be so used as to bring them upon easy terms with one an- other, tlie success of the dinner, in a social way, is more than half established." ENTERTAINMENT AT TABLE. 47 T Among her other duties, the hostess lias taken into con- sideration the arrangement of her guests at the table, Avith a view of having them paired off to their mutual advantage and to the pleasure of all concerned, so that when dinner is^ announced the host and hostess quietly intimate to the dif- ferent gentlemen whom they are to escort to the table. " Mr. Power, will you be so kind as to escoi't Miss Strong to din- ner? Mr. Sharp, please look after the interests of Mrs. Keene, and Mr. Keene, you may do the agreeable to Mrs, Sharp, that will be a keen sharp trade all ai'ound. Mr. Wright, suppose you finish telling that little story to Mis.s Straight at the table," and so on. If the dinner is given in. honor of some lady guest, the host off'ers her his arm and goes out first, and the hostess last. On the other hand, if the honored guest be a gentleman, he escorts the hostess, and they lead the way, and the host follows the company. The hostess having already arranged the places at the table for each guest, and placed a cai'd with the name written upon it, on each of the plates, the guests have no difficulty in finding their respective seats at table. This method is now used at private dinners, having long been the custom at public dinners. The gentleman offers his right arm to the lady he escorts to dinner, and seats her on his left hand at the table. On reaching their places, he di'aws out the chair for her, and allows her to be seated before he seats himself. The honored guest, if a lady, is seated at the right of the host ; if a gen- tleman, at the right of the hostess. It becomes the duty of each gentleman to sec that the lady he escorts to the table is well provided for, and where food is passed around from guest to guest, to allow her to be helped befoi'e he helps himself. 472 OUR HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. Table decorations should not be used to a great extent, but should be choice, when used at all. Flowei-s should be tint' but few, for to some people the odor of flowers does not mingle pleasantly with that of the food before them. It must not be supposed that dinners must be costly and elaborate to be enjoyable, nor will guests expect that a din- ner will be other than commensurate with the circum.stances of the host and hostess. Costly dinners are not nece.s.sarily good dinners, while the surroundings may be so agreeable and cheerful, the table so tastefully spread, the welcome so frank, and the convei'sation so bright that a very simple dinner Is indeed charming, and affords the utmost pleasure to hostess, host, and guests alike. No dinner should be considered complete without at least three courses, which may be cla.s.sed as: First, soups; second, meats; and third, des.sert of pastry or pudding-s. This may be easily doubled up, having for the first course, a small dish of raw oystei's, or clams; second, soup or lx)iled fish; third, meats; fourth, salads; fifth, pastry and pud- ding-s; sixth, ices, fruits, nuts, and raisins, with coffee. Be- fore the dining-room is opened, half a dozen raw oystei"S are placed in a small dish before each plate. If the season is warm, they may be placed on cracked ice, with a quarter of a lemon to each plate. When oystere are not in season, small clams may be substituted, in which case red pepper should be provided. These may Ix' eaten after the party have seated themselves for dinner. A dish of soup or of boiled fish, or both, may then be served. The dishes in which these are served being removed, the meats may })e served, together with the ^'cgetables and substantials, and they are either roast beef, mutton, or turkey. These may FRENCH AND RUSSIAN CUSTOMS. 473 be followed by boiled meats. As a rule, the roast precedes tlie boiled, next come the salads and entrees, and then fol- low the pastry or puddings, and finally, ices, fruits, nuts, raisins, candy, and coffee. If it should be a game dinner, the game may take the place of the meats in the third course. This bill of fare may be varied according to inclination or circumstances. Should the host and hostess desire to in- clude wines in their bill of fare, it would be well to remem- lier that Sauterne, or any light white wines should come with the oysters before soup, Sherry after soup, and that Champagne comes with the roast. If wine is brought on for a dessert, champagne is preferable. There are two methods of serving a dinner, the French and Russian. The former is the ordinary way, the various ■dishes being set on the table to be carved and served by the host and hostess, and passed to the guests, or handed to them by a servant. The Russian method, which is often adopted for formal dinners, is for waiters to serve each ^uest separatel}', all the carving, etc., being done before the food is brought to the table. By this method more servants are required, and it gives a better opportunity for the dec- oration of the table, if that is desirable. The English cus- tom is to set all the dishes of each course on the table at •once, and then those that are to be caived are removed to a side table and carved by a skillful servant. The advan- tages of the Russian custom is that it leaves host and liostess almost as free as the guests to guide and take part in the convei-sation. As the main object of giving a dinner party is enjoy- ment and pleasure for all concerned, it is incumbent upon all to be in their happiest mood, and for each to do his or 474 OUK HOMES AND THEIR ADORNMENTS. her part in rendering the occasion as dehghtful as possible. Lively and sprightly convei-sation, and cheerful ways are especially desirable, and when each endeavors to make all others happy about him, the sociable feature of the dinner is not likely to prove a failure. Ill-nature should never be brought to a dinner table, and any display of it is a mark of ill-breeding. It is not in good taste for two pei-sons to monopolize the conversation by a discussion in which few or none of the other guests are interested. The convei-sa- tion should be of a natui-e to be of interest to all, or the great majority, so that each may entcn* into its spirit. If the dinner party is a large one you may converse with those near j^ou in a low tone of voice. The hostess should endeavor to put all her guests at their ease, paying every attention to the wants of all, so far as possible. She needs self-possession and tact so that she may anticipate every want. It is the duty of the host to aid her as far as pos- sible, and to endeavor to encourage the timid, draw out the silent, and direct the conversation, while others sustain it. The table-cloth must be white and spotless, and under it should be spread a thick baize or other cloth to prevent the noise of dishes. Napkins should Ix^ of fine texture, but firm and folded square. The dishes should be free from nicks and scrupulously clean. Flowei"s, when not used in great profusion, ar(i the most tasteful ornaments for the table. Fruit, tastefully arranged, may also be used to as- sist in the table decoration. W.hen the dinnei" is served up in the ordinary way the plates and the dishes to be served are placed before the host or hostess. When each dish is served into the plate, it Is placed upon the waiter's small saK'er, who sets it before the MANNERS A T THE TABLE. 475, guest. If a second dish is served in the same course, the waiter presents the dish, having first put into it a spoon, tO' the left of the guest, who lielps himself. As soon as any one has finished his plate, it Is removed, without waiting for the others to finish. When all the plates are removed, the next course is brought on. The crumb-brush is not used until just before the dessert, and after that is served, the waiter whose services are no longer needed, leaves the room In serving, the most honored guest, that is the lady at the right of the host, should be first helped. At a dinner party, great care should be taken that the food be served neatly ; the plates should not be helped too abundantly or the food flooded with gravies, which many dislike. To some people it is disagreeable to have a plate bedaubed with gi'avy or scattered food. Food is passed to a guest from the left, but water is poured at the right of a guest. Each guest should have ample space at the table so that he may eat without crowding, or being crowded by, hLs neighbor. Consequently it is important for the success of the dinner that no more be invited than can be comforta- bly accommodated. While individual mannei-s at the table require a kind consideration for the rio-hts and feelinos of others which mai'ks the true gentleman, there are details of behavior which deserve mention. Raw oysters nnist be eaten with a fork. Soup should be sipped from the side of the ispoon and without noise. A 470 OUR HOMES AXD THEIR ADORNMENT.'. soup plate sliould never be tilted for the last spoonful, and it should not be called for a second time. Fish should be eaten either with the fork, or a fish-knife. Salads, cheese, pastry, and everything that can be cut or broken without a knife should be eaten with a fork. A knife should never bo put into the mouth during a meal. Bread should be broken, never cut at the table. Turkey, chicken, and game are cut up, never picked with the fingei-s, unless in the in- dulgence of a family dinner, when the bone may be held in one hand and picked. Salt must be taken on the side of the plate and never upon the table-cloth. The fork conveys food to the mouth and may be used in either hand, as most convenient. Food that cannot be handled with a fork should be eaten with a spoon. To help yourself to butter or any food from a common dish, with your own knife or fork, is a gross offense. It is exceedingly impolite to pick the teeth at the table, or in the presence of ladies after a meal. If it is necessary to use a tooth-pick at the table, it is done while the napkin is held over the mouth. Avoid making any sound with the jjiouth while eating or chew- ing food. Eat slowly, both for tl)£ sake of health and good manners, and do not take so lar/e a mouthful that you find it difficult or impossible to spfeak. Do not lean the ellx)ws or lay the hands on the table, or play with knives and forks or glasses, or lounge in, or tilt back, your chair, or take a lounf'inir attitude at the table. When you have finished a coui-se, lay your knife and fork side by side on the plate, which is the signal for their removal. Never dip bread into gravy or pi'eserves. Refuse fish if 3^ou wish, but do not call for it a second time. When soup is passed as the first coui-.se, never refuse FISH AND SOUP ETIQUETTE. 477 it, but you need not partake of it unless you wish to. Never apologize to a waiter for asking him for anything ; it is his business to seive. Never rebuke a waiter, as that is the business of the host. When dishes are passed by one guest to another, help youi-self before offering it to the next, as it makes confusion and delay to do otherwise. Never use the napkin to wipe your face or nose. It is for the lips only. Do not scrape your plate, or tilt it up to get the last drop, or wipe it with a piece of bread. Pudding may be eaten with a fork or spoon as is most convenient. Ices require a spoon. It is rude to monopolize the conversation at the table, or to talk or laugh loud. Boisterous conduct is particularly ill-mannered at the table. If a special delicacy has been pre- pared by the hostess for the dinner, which a guest does not care for, or which his health will not permit him to eat, he may take a portion of it on his plate and eat as much or as little of it as he pleases. To refuse it might be to injure the feelings of your hostess. It is not regarded in good taste to say much about the food, either in praise or disparagement. If one is obliged to leave the table before a meal is finished, he should ask the hostess to excuse him. Bread should be held on the plate or near the table, while it is buttered, and it should be broken, and not bitten into. The general rule is that nothing should be bitten at the table. One should not sit too near the table, nor too far from it, nor drum with his fingers, nor make diagrams with his knife and fork, nor twirl his goblet, nor play with his salt- cellar, nor cough, sneeze, or smack his lips, nor put his elbows on the table, nor fidget in his chair, nor blow in his fioup to cool it, nor soak up gravy with his bread. If a 478 OUR HOMES AXD Til EI II ADORNMENTS. plate is lianded you at table, keep it, unless you are re- quested to pass it to another. The host knows whom he wishes to serve first. As soon as you receive your plate, you an^ at liberty to begin eating without waiting until all ■ othei"s ar(! served, as is often done. An apple may be held in the hand while paring, and eaten in small slices cut from the whole fruit, carrying each slice to the mouth on the point of a fruit knife. Never bite into an apple at. the table. In cases where a pereon is in doubt just what to do, or how to act at table, it would he well to conform to the u.sage of those around him, for it is almost impossible to give rules or suggest hints to apply to all cases and all circumstances into which a person may be thrown. We have presented some rules regarding the preparation and serving of a formal dinnei*. In every well-regu- lated family the table should be prepared daily with the same care, if not so olalx)rate, as for such an occasion. This is a good way to insure success for hostess and servants when a dinner party does come off, w^hile it gives the mis- tr<^ss and servants the luxury of becoming used to a nice stylo, so that it is just as easy as common ways, and no sud- den visitor can put them out. In the family it should be observed as a rule to meet together at all meals of the day around one common table where the same rules of etiquette should be as rigidly enforced as at the table of a stranger. It is only by the constant practice of the rules of gootl soci- ety at liomo that good mannei's become easy when any of them are invit^'d out to meet stranjzers. TABLE TALK. 479 At the breakfast table, a greater amount of freedom is allowable than at the other meals of the day. Some mem- bers of the family require to be off at an early hour. Thus all may not be able to meet together, and each may rise and leave the table when business or pleasure dictate. The mistress serves the coffee, and the master of the house the meats, potatoes, etc. Whenever practicable, it is well to serve fruits at breakfast, and they should be served first, followed by oat-meal, or wheaten grits, then the meats and vegetables, with toast, hot cakes, and coffee. The last meal of the day, supper or " tea," is the sim- plest of the three, and meats are mostly served cold, while the nicest delicacies of cookery are served up. In some serLse, housekeeping is making the most of life, bringing taste and variety into it, compassing difficult ends with invention. Those who disdain it lower themselves. Never think that any thing is too good for you or yours that you can obtain. Everywhere there are people living in small common ways, because they are absolutely afraid of the expense or the notice which a pleasanter life would bring. Half the niceties of life involve only care to secure them, without a dollar of expense. Good manners cost nothing, good taste is a saving, and good housekeeping act- ually makes money. People grow refined first in their eat- ing. How is it that the most brilliant and clever nation in the world has albo the best cooking? Put these things to- gether, and do your best according to their result. We present the following Bills of Fare for various meals, which may be found of value to our readers: — 4-80 OUK HOMES AND THEIR ADOItNMENTS. ^l#¥M JilLLS OF A osure or Location, 186 Fences, Various Stj les of, 206 Formation ICE-HOUSE— To Construct, 157 Combined with Preservatory (with ill.) 15S Ideal Houses, 25 Impure Air, How t« Remove It, 04 Inks, Recipes for, 413- Inlaid Applique Work, 241 Ingrain Carpet, 261 Instructions in Needle-Work, 241 Interlaying in Scroll-Work, 343- Japanese Quilt, 273, 27* KALCIMINE (Calcimine), 230 Blue, 231 Rose, 231 Lavender, 231 Lilac, 231 Kinds of Stitches in Needle-Work, 237 Kitchen, The, 83- Lace, To Whiten, 371 Lambrequins, (with ill.) 277 Lamp Screen, 27& LANDSCAPE GARDENING— General Rules Applying to Small Lots, 183 Errors to be Avoided, 183 How to Begin, 184 Style of Gardening Used, 186 Exposure or Location, 186 Roads and Walks, 189 Grading and Terracing, 18* Formation of Lawns, 190 A More Permanent Lawn, 191 Special Features, 193 Varieties of Flowers, Trees, and Shrubs to Use, 194 Drives and Walks, (with ill.) 197 Method of Making, 193 Planting Trees, 202 492 GENERAL INDEX, Best Time (or Doing So, 202 Time for Removing, 203 How to Select Trees, 205 Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 Fences, ^■a^ious Styles, 206 How to Make them Ornamental, 209 Lathing and Plastering, 70 Lathes and Saws for Fret Sawing, 349 Leaves, To Skeletonize, 380 LESSONS IN FRET SAWING (with illustrations)— L, 340 IL, 840 in., 341 IV., 341 Librarj , The, 221, 288 Lime-Water, 379 Lounge, Useful and Graceful, 292 LUMBER— Necessary to Erect a Build- ing— To Find, 166 To Measure a Pile of, 165 The Number of Feet in a Log, 166 MANTELS- Home-Made, 290 Cabinets, Etc., 283 Mason Work, 62 Materials in Building a House, with their Cost, 145 MEASURING- Builder's Work, Labori'and Mate- rial, 165 Lumber, 165, 166 Studding, 165 Clapboarding, 166 Plastering, 166 Flooring, 166 Mineral Paints, 16S Mixing Colors, 169 Momie Cloth for Needle-Work, 235 Mordants Used in Dj eing, 384, 870 NEEDLE-WORK— Recent Improvements In, 234 Usefulness in, A Prominent Fea- ture, 234 Description "of Materials (or, 235 Flax aoth, 235 Canton Flannel, 235 Momie Cloth, 235 Upholstery Felta, 235 Bolton Sheeting, 235 Plushes, 235 Secret of Beauty in, 234 Satin, 236 Crewels, 230 Arasene, 236 Embroidery Silks, 230 Beads, 230 Kinds of Stitches, 237 Stem or Tent Stitch, 237 Blanket Stitch, 237 Feather Stitch, 237 A New Stitch, 239 Plush Stitch, 233 Applique or Cut-Work, 241 Inlaid, 241 Onlaid, 241 Instructions therein, 241 Drawn Work, 241 Embroidery Frames, 241 NEEDLE- WORK DESIGNS- Embroidered Border, Fig. 42, 243 Embroidered Border, Fig. 43, 243 Embroidered Pincushion, Fig. 44, 244 Silk Counterpane, Fig. 45, 245 Silk Counterpane, Fig. 46, 245 Tatted Doj ley, Fig. 47, 246 Embroidered Tidy on Linen Crash, Fig. 48, 247 Nickle Plating, How to Imitate, 388 Odds and Ends of Antiquity, 279 Oils and Driers, 169 Oil and Shellac Finish, 174 Oil instead of Varnish for Doors, 178 Old Blue Blankets, A Use for, 260 Onlaid Ajiplique Work, 241 Open Firo-Places, 81 GENERAL INDEX. 493 PAGE. Open Joints, and How to Prevent them, 46 Originality, A Lesson in, 280 Originality in Fumisliing, 280 Outhouses, 157 Overlaying in Scroll-Work, 344 390 890 390 391 391 392 PAINT— Economical, To Remove, To Destroy, Fire-Proof for Roofs, For Blackboards, Compound Fire-Proof for Wood- Work, To Prevent Rust, PAINTING— Best Time to Paint, 388, 167 Kinds of Paint, 168 Colors Used, 168 Mixing Colors, 169 Oils and Driers, 169 Applying Paints, 170 Priming, 170 Second Coat, 171 Finishing Coat, 171 Brushes and Tools, 172, 175 General Suggestions on Outside Work, 172 Inside Work, 174 Oil and Shellac Finish, 174 To Paint Old Work, 389 Graining, 175 Ash Graining, 177 Old Oak Graining, 177 Bird's-Eye Maple Graining, 177 Mahogany Graining, 178 Recipes for, 388 Parlor, Library, Etc., How to Finish, 188 Paste, How to Make, 229 Patriotic Screen, A, 274 Pavements of Encaustic Tiles, 282 Picturesque Gothic House, (vrftli ilL) 130 Piecework, Japanese, 273 Pincushion in Bnbroidery, 242 Plan for Cheap but Excellent Farm and Carriage Bam, (2 iU.) 169 PAGE. PLASTERING, 76, 163 To Measure, 16S Plates for Rafters. 78 Plumbing and Fitting, 84 Plushes for Needle-Work^ 235 Plush Stitch, 238 Polish for Furniture, 3SS Polishing Wood Carvings, 362, 396 irKJixiltjIxbjiy — Various for Doors, Halls, and Win- dows, 259 How to Make Them, 260 Of Chinese Embroidery, 260 Made from Waste Material, 261 Use of Smyrna Blankets and "Prayer Carpets," 262 Preserving Autumn Leaves, 380 Pretty Idea in Screen Decoration, 270 Piinciples of Taste, 265 Pure Water, 98 Pure White Lead, 168 Quilt, A Japanese, 273, 279 Recent Improvements in Needle- Work, 234 Reception-Room, The> 2SS RECIPES FOR— Dyeing, 364 Bleaching, S71 Health, 877 Home Decoratioo, 880 Toilet, 838 Paints, 888 Staining Woods, SW Cleaning and Scouring, 894 Cleaning Fabrics, 398 Cements, 403 Cooking, 417 RECIPES, MISCELLANEOUS— 408 To Renew Manuscripts, 406 Tracing Paper, 408 Transfer Paper, 409 To Mend Amber, 400 Bronzing Wood, 400 To Remove Screws, 410 To Make Putty, *10 404 GENERAL INDEX. I'AOK. For Sealing-Wax, 411 Fi)r Clean iny: Harness, 411 For Harness Blacking. 412 For Harness Composition, 412 To Destroy Beil-Bu^'s. 41-2 To Make \on-Corrosive Ink, 413 For Invisible Ink, 413 For Green Ink, 413 For Blue Ink, 413 To Make Soap-Bubbles, 413 To Pre\ent Rusting, 414 To Vre\ ent Lead's FApIoding, 414 To Repair Rubber Hose, 414 To Keep Wagon Tires on, 414 Tlie Temjiering Secret, 415 Test for Counterfeit Silver, 416 KECIl'ES- Dyeing Woolens, 367 Kbonizing Wood, 267, 38-2 Varnish for Common Work, 3S5 Furniture Varnish, 385 HECIl'ES, TOILET— Hair, To Beautify the. 383 Hair Gloss, 382 Hair Wasli. 382 Hair Lotion, 3S2 Hair Brushes, To Clean, 383 Teeth, To Beautify the, 3S3 Tooth Powder, 383 Tooth Wash, 333 Bloom of Roses, SS3 Bloom of Youth, 3S3 Violet Powder, 384 Aromatic Vinegar, 384 Camphor lee, 384 Cold Cream, 384 For Kougli or Chapped Hands 384 To Take Stains off the Skin, 384 Acacia Sachet, 384 Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 385 Remodeling .Windows, 153 Revolving Ventilator, The, 96 lioofs and Gables, Improving of. 152 Roofs and Trinmiings, SO PAGE. .Satin tor Fancy Work, 236 Si-arf for Book-Cases, 289 Scarf for Pianos, 966 SCREENS— Their A'ariety and Uses, 266 How to JIake Tliem, (with ill.) 267 Bivmboo and Fire Screens, 268 Use of an Old ClothesHorse, 269 Method of Covering and Decorat- ing, 289 A I'rettj Idea, 870 Appropriate Figures from Nature, 271 A Stationary Screen, 271 In Embroidery, 272 Old Clothes-Horse Screen, 277 Japanese Piecework, 278 A Patriotic Subject, 274 Odd Fan, 2f75 Lamp, 275 SCROLL SAWING, 335 Practical Lessons in, (\vith 10.) 340 Selecting Healthy Site, 97 Selecting Flowers, 804 Sewage, Good System of, 98 Shade Trees, 101 Shaker Rocking-Chair Cushions, 248 Sheathing Paper, 42 Shellac Finish, 174 Shingling, 42 Shingles, No. liequired for a Roof, 166 Shrubbery, 101 Shutters and Blinds, 82 Sick-Room, Disinfectants for, 377 Silhouettes in ScroU-Work, 345 Silk Counterpanes in Embroidery, 244 Silk Rag Carpet, 261 Simple Adornments that Add to Com- fort, 130 Simple Cottage, A, with Successi^•e Enlargements [Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6] from Design I., 105 SkelettMiizing Leaves, 380 Soil for the Flower Garden, 305 SOLID GOTHIC HOUSE Description of the Plan, (with ill.) 132 GENERAL INDEX. 495 PAGE. Cost of Erection, 134 Sowinjj of Flower Seeds, 3o5 Sponge, To Bleach, 371 STAINING WOODS- Directions for, 392 Walnut, (2 Kecipes) 393 Black, 393 Black, for Inunediate Use, 393 Kbony, 267, 393 Cherrj, 393 STAIRCASES— Directions for Building', 51 Uear or Back, 52 STAMPING- IVoducitiy: the Desijfn, 240 Transferring Design, 240 Slate Roofs, 79 Steam Heatiiiii, 93 Stem or Tent Stitch in Needle-Work, 237 Stone-Work, 163 Stone Trimmings for Brick Houses, 60 Storm DDors, 89 Straw Hats, To Color, 370 Straw Goods, To Bleach. 371 Studding, 78 Suggestions on Building, 32, 163 Suggestions on Beautifjing the Sur- roundings at Little Expense, 14S Summer Cottage, How to Build, 143 Summer House, To Construct, 146 Sunlight, a House tliat Admits to Every Room, (with ill.) 125 Sweating of Brick Walls, How to Pre- PAOB. Tidy on Linen Crash, 247 TOILET RECIPES— Hair Gloss, 3S2 Hair Oil, SS2 Hair Wash, 8S2 Hair Lotion, 382 Hair, To Beautify the, 383 Hair Brushes, To Clean, 383 Teeth, To Beautify the, 383 Tooth Powder, 333 Tooth Wash, 383 Bloom of Roses, 383 Bloom of Youth, SS3 Violet Powder, 884 Aromatic Vinegar, 334 Camphor Ice, 334 Cold Cream, 384 For Rough or Chapped Hands, 384 To Take Stains oflE the Skin, 384 Acacia Sachet, 384 Pot-Pourri Sachet Powder, 385 Toilet-Stand, Drapery for, 299 Train Stitch in Needle- Work, 257 Transferring Designs for Embroidery, 240 TREE PLANTING- Best Time for, 202 Time for Removing, 203 Excellent Kinds to Plant, 205 Trimmings and Roofs, 80 Tripods, 263 Use up the Pieces, 281 vent, 60 Varnish Brushes, 172 Varnish Finish, 173, 174 Table-Cover, Ornamental, (with ill.) 278 VARNISHES— Table Scarf in Darned Work, 257 How to Varnish Furniture, 385 Tables, to Renovate, 277 For Common Work, 385 Tanks, Hints on, 86 Table Varnish, 386 Tatted Dojlej , 246 Turpentine Varnish, 386 Tempering Secret of the U. S. Govern- For Furniture, 386 ment, 415 Common, 336 Terraces, 189 White, 3S6 Testing Cement, 71 Furniture Polish, sse Tin Roofs and Trimmings, 80 Water-Proof, 387 ^6 GENERAL INDEX. PAGE. For Boots and Shoes, 3S7 Golden Varnish, 8S7 For Iron-Work, 388 Veining: Ingrain-Work, 178 Veheteen Portiere Coverings, 262 Veneer Brick and Stone-Work, 58 Ventilation , How to Effect It, (with ilL) M Ventilator, Revolving, 96 WALL-PAPERS- Instructions How to Hong, 226 Sizing the Walls, 227 Quantity in a Roll, 227 How to Cut and Match, 228 To Make and Apply the Paste, 229 For Walls and Ceilings, 215 To Select tlie Best, 216 Hints on Clioosing, 217 219 For Parlor or Drawlng-Room, 220 For Library, 221 For Bed-Room, 221 For Dining-Rooni, 222 WALLS AND CEILINGS- General Remarks, 214 215 Various Modes of Treatment, 230 Calciniinhig, 230 Whitewash, 2S1 PAOK. Llme-Wosh, 231 Whitewash for Brick -Work, (with illustration) 232 Remedy for Damp, 891 Wardrobe and Bedstead Combined, 2flS Water-Colors for Screen Decoration, 271 Wet or Damp Cellars, How to Remedy, 75 Wliiten Lace, To, 371 \Vhite Lead, Pure, 168 WINDOWS— Adding of Bay, 150 Ground Glass, To Imitate, 381 Improving of, 153 Window Gardening, (with ill. ) 327 WOOD CARVING— Its Origin and History, 351 Tools and How to Use Them, (with illustration.) 352 Instruction in the Art, 354 Carving a Wall Pocket, 357 Relief Carving, 359 Carved Fret-Work, 360 Finishing, 362 Wood, EbonLzed, 267, 3S2 Woolens, To Dye all Colon, 367 Zinc, 10^ 3UPPLtEMENT^Ii INDE^ MKTISBB BDITIOMc 1 AGK. PAGF.. AMLINE DYES- For a Mantel in Applique Work, 284 Magenta, Crimson, and Violet, 366 For a Lace Lambrequin, 285 Scarlets, Cardinals, 366 367 For Fish-Scale Embroidery, 350 Pink, Orang:e, 367 DECALCOMANIA— Nicholson Blue, Brown, Yellow, Green, 367 Applique Design for a Mantel or Windt>w, 367 368 28a Its Uses, Materials, DYES, ANILINE— 247 347 Applique Design, C^lt of, 284 The Best, 366 Art Amateur, The, 342 Dissolving, 366 Art of Preserving Flowers, 333 For Wool, 366 Art of Transferring- Pictures, 347 For Cotton, Suggestions, 368 368 Baby's Crib, Cover for, BagB and Sachets, 351 350 Embroidered Co\er for a Baby'.- Crib, 351 Barbatin Ware, Imitation, 342 EMBROIDERY STITCHES— Basket, Imitation Coral, 351 Embroidery with Fish Scales, 349 Baskets for Waste Paper, 352 Stem Stitch, 233 Border, DesigTi for, 235 Blanket Stitch, (with 2 ills.] 233 Brush and Pigment, 339 Chain Stitch, (with ill.') 234 Bridal Flowers, to Preserve, 335 Twisted Chain Stitch, (with ill.) 234 Bowl Painting:, 344 Satin Stitch, (with ill.) Knot Stitch, 234 235 Csuriage Rugs, 353 Herring-Bone Stitch, (with 2 ills.) 235 Convex Glass for Photo Painting, 345 Kensington Outline Stitch, (with Coral Hanging Basket, 351 illustration) 236 Colors in Arrangement of Flowers, 336 Janitia Stitch, (with ill.) 236 Corner, Design for. 237 Basket Stitch, (with ill.) 237 Crystallizing Grass, 336 Feather Stitch, (with ill.) 237 Curtains and Lambrequin, 282 Plash Stitch. (with ill.) 238 239 Curtains, Cut of, « 283 Elegant Table, An, 352 Crystal Ambrotjpes, 345 Fan Painting, 344 Decorating Flower-Pots, 366 Fans for Flower-Pots, 353 DE3IGNS- Filled Rugs, 352 For a Border 236 FLOWERS- For a Corner or Center in Em- The Art of Preserving, 333 broidery, 237 Arrangement of. For Curtains and Lambrequin, 2S3 Flower- Pots, Decorating, 344, 353 For a Sofa Pillow , 284 Funeral Flowers, To Preserve, 335 [497 408 SUPPLEMENTAL INDEX. (ilass, Convex for Photos, Grass, To Crystallize, Herringr-Bone Stitcli, How to Paint Photographs, How to Transfer Pictures, Imitation Barbatin and Lamoges Ware, .laiiina Stitch, I'AQK. 345 336 235 345 348 Kensington Outline Stitcli, 236 Knot Stitch, 235 Lace Lambrequin, (with ill.) 283 285 Lambrequin anil Curtains, 282 Lamoges Ware, Imitation, 342 Lamp-Shades, 354 LINCRUSTA-WALTON- Remarks, 357 Of what Composed, 357 Its Uses, 357 Beauty, 357 Effects, 358 Method of Applying to Walls 357 Illustration, 358 MATERIALS- For Embroiderj', 231, 232 For Lambrequins and Cur- tains, 282, 283 For Oil Painting, 339 For Photo-Enameling, 345 For Transferring Pictures, 347 NATURAL FLOWERS, TO PRESERVE- Remarks, 333 By the Sand Process, 333, 334 By the Sulphur Process, 334 By the Paraffine Process, 335 OIL PAINTING— Remarks, 33!) PAOE. Subjects for. 341, 342 Materials Necessary, 33» Panels, 340 llaques. 341 Silk, Satin, and Plush, 343 Imitation Barbatin Ware, 342 Fans and Bowls, 344 0\ al Picture Frames, 351 Oil Colors, A New Material for, 342 PAINTING IN OIL COLORS- Instructions in the Art, 339, 340 Panels, 340 Plaques, 341 Plush, 343 Pots for Flowers, 344 Pliotographs, 345, 347 Pictures, How to Transfer to Wood, etc.. 347 Picture Frames, To Make, 351 Preserving Natural Flowers, 333 RUGS- Of Silk Rags, 352' Of Sheepskin, 353 For Carriages, 353 Sand Process for Preserving Flowers, -333 S'.fa Pillow, (with ill.) 282-284 Stitches, Embroidery, 333-;}38 Sulphur Process for Preserving Flowers, 334 Silks and Satin, To paint in Oil Colors, 343 Slieepskins, To Tan and Color for Rugs, 353 Table, How to Make, Tanning Sheepskin, Transfer Pictures, Tissue Paper Lamp-Shailcs, Waste-Paper Basket, Water C