Class _SF4i5:3 Book___l!V^__ GoByriglit]^'^ <1/^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Rabbit Culture and Standard BY THE LATE W. F. ROTH, M. D. AND CHARLES T. CORNMAN REVISED BY C. R. DEARDORFF The Standards contained herein have been revised to conform, in point valuations, to the latest official Standards, as adopted by the lead- ing pet stock associations. The word descriptions used in the first edition of this work have been adopted by the pet stock organizations with but slight changes in wording and arrangement, without altering the meaning or application, hence, no change in that respect necessary, except to add description of new varieties, thus bringing this edition down-to-date in every particular. Copyright 1914—1916—1918 By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO. Sellersville, Pa. Fourth Edition — Revised and Up-To-Date Copyright 1919 By THE ITEM PUBLISHING CO. Sellersville, Pa. DEC -3 1919 Printed by the POULTRY ITEM PRESS Sellersville, Pa. ©CI.A5:U)811 Index to Articles Foreword 5 To our Friends and Readers, Old and New 8 Rabbit Culture 9 Varieties of Domestic Rabbits 14 The English Lop 14 French Lop 20 Dutch 20 Angora 24 Himalayan 29 Silver Grey 34 Silver Fawn, Silver Brown and Silver Blue 37 English 38 Polish 39 Havanas 40 Black and Tan , 41 Imperial 42 Selfs 42 American Blue 43 Japanese 43 The Flemish Giant 44 Grey Flemish Giants 50 Solid Colored Giants 51 American Spotted Giants 51 Belgian Giants 53 The New Zealand Reds 53 The Belgian Hare 57 Table of Weights 80 Breeding, Building Up a Str„:n and Inbreeding 81 Pedigree 86 Feeding 87 Hutches 91 An Ideal Rabbitry 96 Yards 102 Preparation for Show Room 105 The Rabbit Hospital and Medicii.e Chest 108 Ailments of Rabbits 112 Castration 115 Tanning the Skiiis 116 Nurse Does 119 Pedigree and Registration 120 Condensed Information and Rules for the Rabbitry 122 Preparation for the Table 125 Index to Illustrations Portrait of C. R. Deardorff 8 English Lop, Colored 13 English Lop 15 Black and White Lop 16, Ideal Dutch 22 White Angora 25 Black and White Angora 26 Himalayan 31 Trio of High Class Himalayans 32 Silver Grey 35 Ideal English 35 English 36 Steel Grey Flemish Giant 45 A Good Steel Flemish Doe 46 American Spotted 52 A Prize Winning New Zealand 55 Another Prize Winning New Zealand 56 Good Belgian Hare Doe 56 Ideal Belgian Hare 65 A Mother Doe and Her Family 66 American Spotted 79 Black Giant 85 English 86 Line Breeding Chart 83 Hutches 92-100 Fur Caps 117 An Ideal Outdoor Hutch 118 Inside Hutches 121 Black Giant 124 Foreword DR. W. F. ROTH died September 3, 1911. At the time of his death he was under contract with the Poultry Item, of Sellersville, Pa., to write a brochure on rabbits. The manuscript in an unfinished condition passed into our hands after his demise. The fact that Dr. Roth was not permitted to finish this work is one deeply to be regretted. He stood out as the greatest authority on this subject the United States has yet pro- duced. It was his desire to erect this as a monument that would stand the test of time, but we have here another illustration of how man proposes and God disposes. The intent of this brochure is to present the rabbit as a Fancy; an industry of utility value. This means its successful breeding for profitable and useful purposes as a fancy and for food. It was not any fault of the rabbit that the "boom" some years back fell flat; but it was the fault of a false understanding of a venture of this sort by a "syndicate" of indiscreet, if not dishonest, promoters. The country was not yet ripe for the re- cognition by rush methods of an industry both new and foreign; and if anything, the hasty, vivid, and glaring claims were too palpably overwrought for intelligent absorption by a large and otherwise preoccupied community. America was too long and wide of expanse, with too well supplied a market of all foods which were then yet too honestly placed on the consumer's table, for him to realize that the rabbit was an actual necessity, "n fact, he didn't need it. If he desired "rabbit," which was hereto- fore considered more a game than domestic food, the woods, fields and prairies were full of it. But things are diffei'ent now. In the last decade the wild animal has become decidedly scarce; poultry is kept at a continual advance and almost prohibitive price, and those manipulating other food stuffs have made nu- merous products very close to a luxury, notably the meats. Nor is our population decreasing among any class except the "400" and food we must have. The necessity for food at more reason- able prices becomes more apparent every day by reason of the present prices being entirely inconsistent with the wage of the moderate working class — that class which needs most at all times. This necessity has even forced itself vaguely upon the dim vision of "statesmen" occupying the State Legislative chairs to the extent that the 1907 Legislature of Pennsylvania enacted a law permitting the trading in slaughtered Belgians on the same footing as fowls in the open market the year round. We should all be grateful for this act, for it is largely a recognition of a meat for public consumption that has hitherto been considered more game than domestic. It places the rearing of the domestic rabbit as an industry and fancy on the same footing as that of fowls. What is now before the breeder is the exercise of wisdom, prudence and judicious methods essential to the education of a consuming public to the value of this new meat as a reasonably priced food. Nor should this be especially difficult, since the meat of the rabbit is unquestionably the most dainty and most nutritious of all meats. As an animal, the domestic rabbit is the cleanest and most prolific of all animals used for food, and weight for weight, it costs less to produce five pounds of meat than any other. In France, Belgium, and to a great extent in England and Germany, the rabbit is largely the meat food of the peasant population, owing not only to the delicacy and nutritious value of the flesh, but for its economic production. The people of some foreign countries have passed through sad experiences relative to their meat supply, and while we in big America do not anticipate grave seriousness that our supply will run out, it is withal a serious issue with the dependent class- es in our large cities to an extent involving millions. The daily papers publish thrilling stories in almost every issue of instances where suffering for lack of food, and meat in particular, are causes of suicide, sickness and even riots. Frequently uprisings by the poor were held from grave results by the Government making itself indirectly responsible for bringing about a reduc- tion in the rate, so inordinately placed by the beef trust, which controlled almost every pound of beef and pork handled in city trade. I cannot say how the essentials for living are manipulated in foreign countries — whether trusts or syndicates exist to make prices as they please — ^but if things do not change here by some authority more powerful than the moneyed monopolizers of the commodities of life, we need not go among the poor of foreign nations to find scarcity of food. As a people we are no better than our foreign brethren. We may be richer— at the present time— laut if we keep on wasting things by inordinate living, misguided economy and without thought for next week or next month we are very liable one morning to wake up hungry. Furthermore, statistics inform us that millions of poor people throughout all civilized countries can afford to eat meat no oftener than once a week, and many none the year round. Why this should be so I cannot understand. I do know, though, 6 that the environments of the working classes in the cities are daily becoming more impossible in the way of securing food, and our country of large, free and abundant America is not by any means so secure within itself as to be immune from possible visitations of disaster in many forms affecting the food supply. Once a nation tolerates its business integrity to become so cor- rupt that business men obstruct food from reaching a distribu- ting market in order to sustain an inordinate high price over the pretext of scarcity, and allow that food (meat and vegetables) to rot, while people are in want and starving, it is not without the bounds of reason to suppose that such flagrant injustice will go unpunished by the God of Nations. It is a question whether the densest heathen in any section of the world would pursue such tactics to punish an enemy. These remarks are not inapropos to my subject under con- sideration, from the fact that the opportunities at hand in the rearing of rabbits makes it possible to offset much of the in- justice endured by those who need meat and can't afford to secure it; for these little useful and delicate morsels of flesh can be reared in most any vacant space from a corner on the farm to a four by eight back yard or cellar of a town house. The ra;bbit is thus utilized by the peasant and poorer classes in foreign countries, and there is no reason why it should not be so utilized in this country, and made a staple food on the same basis as beef, fowl and fish. Why all these arguments should be necessary in behalf of an industry that merits the closest recognition without them, is indeed strange when considered from any point of view — for instance: during the open season for "cotton tails" thousands upon thousands are killed by all manner of disagreeable and unsanitary means; placed on market, and sold at prices twice the actual value of meat per pound, considered even as a deli- cacy. Why not a far more desirable, cleanly, more readily ob- tainable at all times, more nutritious, and cheaper meat produced by the domestic rabbit ? Observe the menu cards of hotels, res- taurants and other resorts of the epicure and note lobsters, crab, turtle, and a dozen other disgusting and indigestible things pre- pared a la mode at fancy prices — none better, so clean, so diges- tible, more dainty, or so cheap as the unapproachable loin of a seasonably prepared rabbit. Why is this superb meat overlook- ed, or shall I say, neglected, for no reason whatever. I am sure once an intelligent acquaintance is had with it through the med- ium of judicious culinary experiment, it will become as staple as all the other meats, and the rearing of the domestic rabbit will be an industry of necessity. ^^^^_ ^_ CORNMAN. To Our Friends and Readers, Old and New: THE RAPID SALE of the third edition of Rabbit Culture and Standard, and the many kind words of commenda- tion we have received have been very gratifying to both the publishers and myself. Some few have offered criticisms and suggestions in a kindly way, and these we have given consideration in preparing the fourth edition — chiefly among which are the abbreviation and omission of obsolete mat- C. K. DEARDOUFF tor pertaining to the Belgian Hare, and the addition of new chapters on practical phases of the rabbit business. The stand- ards have also been brought down to date. Sincerely believing we are offering the rabbit industry a work of superior merit, better and more practical even than former editions of this work, we submit cur efforts for your kind consideration and approval. Sincerely yours, C. R. DEARDORFF North Judson, Ind., Sept. DO, 1919. Rabbit Culture By W. F. Roth THE FANCY BREEDING domestic rabbits is accomplished for two pur- poses — that of Fancy and Utility. For Fancy, implies breeding to requirements that have been formulated in accord with certain ideals, termed Standard; for Utility, means rearing them for market meat, and whatever commer- cial use can be made out of the fur and skin. I will refer to each separately. Careful search has failed to identify the term fancy with that of rearing animals, nor that of fancier, unless a "cant name for sporting characters" can be so construed. The definition of the word Fancy is "to imagine"; to "form in one's mind an ideal" of a thing "which appeals to one's liking." Another definition is "the faculty by which the mind forms images or representations of things at pleasure;" and still another "taste, conception." Last and perhaps as near correct as any, makes it imply to like, to be pleased with, particularly on account of external appear- ances. These definitions, it seems to me, are singularly applicable to the pact of folk who make it their object to rear animate crea- tures so they conform with certain pre-conceived ideals whose chief points are beauty, grace, usefulness, and harmonious blend- ing of physical characteristics into a being as near perfect as the imagination can conceive. This, to my mind, is a technical Fancy, and it is not difficult to appreciate how interesting, at- tractive and profitable it can be made. A Fancy, too, does not stop at mere admiration, or liking, as I fear many follow it. One can own and admire a creature, and yet not be a fancier; for a Fancy, as the above definition em- bodies, means development, advancement, and persistent effort toward an objective point along definite lines. A life-time of useful application can be vouchsafed in it as reflected by the beneficial results to mankind from the efforts of pioneers in its various branches — the horse, dairy cattle, sheep, swine, the dog and cat, many handsome breeds of fowls, and just as beautiful and useful for Fancy and food, the Belgian Hare, the Flemish 9 (liant, the New Zealand Red, and other valuable but perhaps less well known varieties of the commercial rabbit, as well as the smaller and more strictly "fancy" varieties. In all these depart- ments the Fancy has assumed such merit that the Department of Agriculture recognized the necessity for assisting by the organization of experiment stations for advanced study of the different features embodied in it. The commercial rabbit and fancy rabbit has lately received recognition from a Government departmental source, and sev- eral bulletins prepared relating to the rabbit industry. Once the commercial value of the rabbit is intelligently appreciated, re- cognition as a national industry must follow. Progress in this direction lies with the Fancy, and it is this body that must make the Utility subservient to it, with the fact before mind that no creature can be too beautiful and physically perfect for food purposes. A Fancier To be a fancier, is to interest one's self in the principles em- bodied under the term Fancy and as a breeder, aim at their con- summation so far as possible. A fancier must needs be a breed- er, but a breeder is not always a fancier. To be a true fancier does not merely imply the liking of a certain classified animate being known as breed, strain, or type of animal or fowl, but as already intimated, the knowledge of an ideal toward which the liking inclines to an extent that scientific effort is exercised in its growth for perfect attainment. This implies, too, a reasonable information on structural tissue; of the laws of pro-generation with regard to merits and defects that are influenced by her- edity; and of physical characteristics that classify the variety in question. To apply one's self as a fancier can be made an object of the highest merit in that the exercise of personal qualifications which stand for honor, honesty and business integrity can be placed on a par with all other occupations that call for man's noblest principles. The Need for a Fancy With regard to rearing rabbits as a matter of Fancy, its beauty and wisdom as a chosen hobby, cannot be questioned. In several foreign countries, notably England, the breeding of pet stock has become as much an industry of importance as that of breeding thoroughbred stock of larger animals for domestic use. For its production they enter into it with as much care as that required for a first class specimen race horse, dairy cow, canine or fowl. The science to successfully produce any one of the 10 many varieties of commercial or fancy rabbits to their present perfection is as intricate and interesting in detail as for the above and has advocates by way of membership of men and women who stand in the forefront of educational, social and professional station. Fancy rabbits are particularly attractive in many ways. They are docile, useful, and exceptionally beautiful; while as a feature for relaxation from more weighty responsibilities no finer field is open for genuine pleasure. They are singularly appreciative of intelligent attention, and since their growth is rather quick, one's pleasure in seeing the fruits of one's efforts is sooner realized than in many creat- ures of other fancies. By way of unalloyed sportsmanship no Fancy brings more real satisfaction than that derived from the numerous shows for friendly competition, where often the specimens are bred so keenly to the edge of uniform quality as to almost make a judge look three ways at once. And it pays for when choice winners of any of the varieties, fetch as high as anywhere from $25 to $125, and win a trophy worth $50 besides, one need not wonder why such a Fancy attracts good people to membership. I know fanciers who annually have an income from $200 to $1,000 from the sale of specimens for breeding only; and in this country prices are not one-half that secured for winning speci- mens in England. That this is so, is entirely the fault of the Fancy here, and on the whole our stock is just as good as theirs — in many respects better in the matter of health and stamina. The reader will pardon this personal introduction, but I have often been asked by frequent visitors to my rabbitry "What prices do you obtain for the general run of breeding specimens?" "From $5 to $25 per specimen I have heretofore considered reas- onable" is my reply. To show an approximate average, I will state that for 27 there was remitted $222. That a Fancy can be made a nicely profitable feature is fur- ther qualified when I say, that the actual cost to rear a Belgian Hare or any variety of similar size and habits to maturity need not exceed 80 cents for a year's feeding when all foodstuffs have to be bought. Under many conditions the expense can be re- duced to half this, so when one can secure stock of superior merit for such a limited outlay, and realize from $5 to $50 per speci- men, such a Fancy commands more than passing notice. A well informed fancier and author has this to say: "As a Fancy the Belgian Hare and fancy rabbit has few rivals which can claim such concentrated advantages, for, apart from the fact 11 that each section of society is represented in its rank as exhibi- tors, the world-wide popularity of rabbits as an article of food and commerce grows by leaps and bounds annually." I look forward with the consciousness, that what has become in a num- ber of densely populated foreign countries a Fancy and Industry of inestimable value to them in various ways, will not be long distant here. The Rabbit cs a Species The rabbit is indigenous to virtually every part of Europe and America. Australia has also a species of rabbit somewhat akin in type and habits to the American "Jack." The rabbit is a species of quadruped separate from that of the hare, nor will the two species "mix," as many suppose, un- less in very exceptional instances. It appears, also that to what- ever country the rabbit is indigenous, it has characteristics that differentiate from its brother of the same species in another; either larger or smaller, or of varied color markings. The same holds true of the hare in its native heath. The rabbit is of the species lepus cuniculus, and the hare lepus timidus, though both belong to the family rodrntiae — a creature with long, rat-like front gnawing teeth. Originally the rabbit was introduced into Europe from Africa, is the prevailing opinion among zoologists, and most likely what is now Spain; from thence into Brittany, and eventually over all Europe. How long since, or rather, in which of the earlier centuries this trans- pired is not definitely known. In its gregarius habits the rabbit also differs widely from those of the hare, and in the wild state is said to be monoga- mous. This latter trait, however, ceases with domestication, and either sex becomes altogether polygamous. It also differs from the hare in that its young are born immature, with eyes closed and the body nude of hair, in a nest lined with fur pulled from the mother, burrowed in the ground whenever possible; while those of the former (hare) are born with eyes open, and body nicely covered, in a "form" on top of the ground. The fertility of the rabbit is also proverbial, a litter contain- ing anywhere from 4 to 12, while the female haro rarely brings forth more than 2 and seldom as many as 4. An old English name for the rabbit is cony, and its cogno- men in many others is similar to this, as Latin cuniculus, Italian coniglio, German kaninchen, and Welsh owningen; but the rabbit is not the cony of Scripture. Each country, and in America, each state has laws which at this time regulate the destruction to which it may be subjected as game; but this point is not essential here. 12 For domestic purposes the rabbit has been bred to many varieties, and virtually so from early times. As a dainty morsel it has graced the table of ancient monarch and his humblest peasant down the ages until now, so that as an article of food and commerce it is recognized the world over. The actual consumption of rabbit as a food is not totally known from available statistics right now, but England alone uses upwards of 25,000,000 pounds annually and in France, Ger- ^many, and Austria, as well as Belgium and Holland, it is, as • already remarked, largely the food of their peasant class. What is known as the "Famous Ostend Rabbit" is merely a specially reared Belgian for culinary purposes, and occupies much the same position with epicures that the Canvass Back duck does in this country. England- has received her supply hitherto almost entirely from the colonies, notably Australia, where it was so abundant as to make wholesale destruction an absolute necessity because of menace to crops and fruit trees. I am informed quite recently however, that the Australian species is in some danger of ex- termination, for it is not alone for food that its use extended; in fact, at first it was not used for this purpose at all, but for fur jvery extensively utilized by hat manufacturers. Because of this, indiscriminate slaughter was executed so that now I am told by one of the largest hat makers in the world that fur from this source has fallen off in supply nearly 40 per cent, and price con- sequently advanced in the same ratio. This same hat maker was greatly concerned, and advanced the suggestion that it would become an absolute necessity to rear fur rabbits in large num- bers for both hat and leather uses, as well as the more inexpen- sive furs for wear. In fact, large quantities of skins are already utilized for the latter purpose, which would seem to suggest a field for unusual profit when managed with a view to producing a specially grown article of superior "wool" merit and wearing qualities. I am convinced that this can be done. English Lop with Good Earage 13 Varities of Domestic Rabbits Descriptions and Standards by Roth, Cornman and DeardorfT Many varieties of rabbits have been "made" by domestifT^ breeding, and here follow the more prominently recognized by fanciers: Flemish Giant, Belgian Hare, New Zealand, American Spotted, Lop, Dutch, Angora, Himalayan, Polish, English, the Silver in Grey, Fawn, Blue and Brown; the Tan in Black, and Blue; the Havana, Imperial, and Selfs. The English Lop Ear The Lop As a fancy variety, the Lop has made itself decidedly pop- ular, and while perhaps not so much so in this country as if? England and Germany, it has, withal, many admirers. Its piin- cipal characteristics is the large ears for which it is noted and specimens of enormous proportions have been produced in recent years. Instances are recorded with an earage of 27^ by IV* and a weight of 12 pounds. Because of this immense earage, however, its breeding for purposes other than Fancy is not so desirable as that of less bothersome varieties. Ears For show purposes the Lop has two classifications — one for entries of classified length, and the other for any length. For the former, classification usually exceeds 24 inches, to any pos- sible limit beyond this; while in the latter no specification i^ made, and these specimens are judged perhaps more for univer- sal quality than earage alone. Measurement of the ears is taken from one extremity across the head to the other, and the width of one ear must be at least one-quarter of the total; that is, if the earage is 24 inches, the width of one ear must be six inches. There is also a charactei-istic pendancy to the ears when in natural sitting pose that must be looked for in well bred lops, which is due to a correct juncture of their roots with the cran- ium. This is an important point, and means that an ideal speci- 14 men has the contour of head over its highest portion where it joins the first (cervical) bone of the neck so adjusted as to com- pel the ears to suspend uniform, and gracefully curved around their convex distension, without collapsing appreciably in any place except where touching the floor. Pose and Shape When the head is posed as just described, it gives position to the animal throughout, a point that qualifies for Standard merit. This will naturally approximate the fore legs beside each other from elbow to toes, so they are evenly paired under the rounded breast, and not much more than foot-length visible; neck rather sharply curved so as to start the back-curve from shoulder junction in a uniform, almost half circle, free from pro- jections, to the root of the tail — -"in the buck rather straighter in saddle outline." The hind legs are uniformly straight by the side of the body toes not pointing away nor toward it, and flat on the floor from knee-joint forward, altogether "humping" the body between two strongly outlined shanks so as to make it appear almost balanced in the middle of them. Color Unlike the Belgian and several other varieties. Lops are bred to no specific color, unless solid blacks can be so identified. They are represented in sooty, fawn, white, grey, yellow, or. modified bufi", blue and self; or in broken colors of yellow-and- white, grey-and-white, blue-and-white, or black-and-white. In the distribution of these colors, there should be some appreciable regularity in that they are not to smear into one an- other, while "the saddle should be entirely self, the markings breaking at the shoulders." Butterfly The head "has a star or blaze on the forehead; but its chiefly marked feature is the butterfly, a marking- which, while it leaves the nose with no trace of white, is broken on the outline, resemb- ling this beautiful insect." This singular resemblance is physically due to the charac- teristic anatomy of a Lop head — the rounded, lateral-and-for- ward convex nose; conspicuous eye brows, and rather broad ap- pearing forehead formed by the root of the ears. All these points enter into classic breeding of this variety. Eyes There is nothing special about the eye of a Lop other than it should be sound and attentive. But I will add, there belongs 17 yet something that makes it decidiedly characteristic of this variety of fancy rabbit. The inordinate size of those pendant ears demand an anatomical adjustment of muscle and cartilage about the cranium that creates more or less corrugation around the eyes, which causes a singular droll expression quite typical of the Lop. It is an appearance of earnest effort to keep the eyes open in spite of those large ears. Tail Must be perfectly straight and "carried well up the body, without any suspicion of a twist." To carry the tail side-wise does not imply a twist in it, nor is it necessarily a disqualification when the specimen is otherwise meritorious. Breeding As remarked, the object of breeding Lops is virtually alone for their earage, and there has been considerable contention among fanciers just where success comes from — correct strain, or correct attention. Arguments of intense warmth with no small acrimony have been freely exchanged on this point, but I am reasonably certain that if the strain is not endowed with inher- ent propensity to procreate well developed ears, there is small chance for meritorious success. The matter of artificial heat will, without doubt, also accent- uate growth of ear; and when natural weather temperature is below 70 degrees within the quarters, becomes a necessity, not- withstanding all arguments to the contrary. One prominent English authority insists that it is impossible to produce earage beyond 24 inches without artificial heat, but we must bear in mind that there is a marked difference in clim- ate between our country and that of England, and that warm days are not so many there as with us. That artificial heat is extensively used by European fanciers is a fact, but whether it is a judicious procedure for the welfare of the breed is a question. For the mere purpose of Fancy and general admiration, one can derive virtually as much pleasure from the "anylength" class — .say, 20 to 25 inch earage — as for extra length. The latter is largely a fad. With regard to mating, care, feed and general attention, the breeding of Lops does not differ essentially from that of other varieties, other than added care for the ears, which persistently hang on the floor. For this particular it is necessary that the quarters be kept clean continually, and the floor well covered with clean bedding of sawdust and chaff, straw, or hay. A dirty 18 floor will soon bring on disease of the ears, and once this takes hold in a flock there is no end of trouble. Littering For obvious reasons, it is not desirable that nest boxes are given the expectant mother doe. If the general habits of a Lop are considered, along w^ith the preponderant ears, it will be plain that the more room a doe has, the better able will she be to care for the young. All she requires, therefore, is sufficient ma- terial with which to build a comfortable nest in one corner of her coop, along with the wool she will take from her body to line it. After kindling, see that no dead ones are among the litter and for reasons of success, reduce the latter to no more than four. I would suggest a foster mother rather than destroying them, particularly so when one has a reliable strain for ear- age; for it often happens that those from which the least is expected turn out best in the end. It is simply astonishing with what rapidity the ears of a young Lop will push for length. An old fancier who has bred this interesting variety for many years informed me that if the quality of a specimen is not apparent by length of ear in 10 weeks from birth, there is small purpose in bothering further with it. He tells me that he has often measured the ears of a youngster on an evening, and by the following morning there was an additional two inches irt length. One would scarcely believe this possible but I have not the least reason for doubting this fancier's word. This qualification implies, that an earage upwards of 20 and 22 inches must show at the end of 10 weeks, and that further length is very limited. I have often seen it in print that many practice "pulling the ears" to accentuate length, and on the other hand the accusation was also denied. Whether true or not, this practice should be condemned — with punishment, if necessary. Standard for Lops There are now two standards by which this variety is judged — for the Limit Classes, and Any Length Classes. The former has special significance for earage while the latter considers the specimens as a whole. 19 Limit Classes: — Points Ear length 15 Ear width 15 Substante and shape of ears 5 Shape and carriaKo 10 Color and markings 15 Condition 10 Straight feet and tail 10 Eye 10 Size 10 100 Any Length: — Ear length 25 Ear width 19 Substance and shape of cars 9 Straight feet and tail 10 Color and Condition 21 Shape and size 10 Eyes r> 100 Bucks to weigh 10 pounds and does 11 pounds or over. French Lop The French Lop is similar to the English, as described above, but is smaller in body and with smaller ears. They are judged "by the same Standard as the "Any Length" class in the English variety. Disqualifications — Permanent wry tail or feet. Dutch By many this is claimed as the handsomest variety of all domestic rabbits, and with considerable justification. The Dutch is not as popular in this country as in England and Germany, though it is making friends fast. There is about this variety a certain fascination that ought appeal in particular to fanciers with a critical eye, for its color markings are such as to make a scientific breeding an absolute necessity. 20 It has been said that Dutch are "hard to raise," but why more so than other varieties has not been made clear, to my satisfaction at least. Were such the case, it is likely the trouble lies with the breeder rather than in the breed. The Dutch is not a large rabbit compared with domestic rabbits in general. Standard qualifications want it compara- tively small; so if there is any lack of stamina in the breed, it is possibly owing to a persistent effort at keeping down weight, accentuated also, by close in-breeding. Color Color markings of this variety are characteristic and very pronounced, one color being always white, and the other either black, blue, tortoise-shell, or a type of steel grey. The solid colors must be typical of the parts they cover, and distinctly separated from the white. Neither shall smear into the other and both must be entirely free from foreign hairs. Fancy value of a specimen depends altogether on the perfect markings thus characterized. White must be the markings of shoulders, fore legs and feet, under jaw and nose upward to between the ears, forming a dis- tinct blaze. About 1% inches of the hind legs from toes upward is also white. Solid color covers the saddle from short ribs back all but the hind feet, and its junction with the white must be as clean cut a line of demarkation "like a string about the waist." Both sides of the face, jowls and ears, are of the same solid color, just as evenly separated from the white. Breeding The biggest contention associated with breeding this vari- ety lies in persistently keeping down size, and maintaining solid- ity for the two color markings. To breed high quality Dutch there is but one road to real success — that of establishing a reliable strain. Start right, and the battle is near half won in the knowledge of personal results that relate to points of merit or demerit. The greatest contention is to overcome a propensity for foreign hairs and splotches in solid markings, notably on the sides and flanks; specks in the eyes, or distinct discoloration; and white inside the ears. When mating it is advisable to use breeding stock that has maintained solid markings after its second molt. Intelligent attention to this factor has been a leading guide to the establish- ment of permanency in markings; and largely, also, for physical characteristics in general. 21 AN IDEAL DUTCH — Very nearly perfectly marked. Compare this fellow with the ideal cut helow Lines up in jfood shape, doesn't he? CHtCK MARKINGS NOSTRILS UNDER CUT \ TOOT STOP EDGtOFJAW COLIAR HIND FOOT IDEAL DUTCH MARKED RABBIT OC or SAOOU The breeders whose success I have noticed as most pro- nounced, mated either a second molt buck to younger does, or a two-year old to yearling females. Greatest stress was laid on color characteristics in the male, while the females were selected more for inferior size; thus, as near as possible, equalizing points for both color and weight. Physically, the Dutch of whatever markings, is a beautiful rabbit when rightly bred. It should be neither racy nor cobby, but a graceful medium to which there is sufficient length that does away with pudginess. Never to grow above 5V2 pounds, size and grace should be harmoniously proportioned to make an ideal. The ears are perhaps a trifle on the small size compara- tive to specimen. As to markings, these are so well outlined in the young when born, that one need not waste effort in bringing up what will likely turn out worthless ones. I am alluding to the line of demarkation separating the colors. If this line is ragged or irregular, colors will show the same when fur is grown out. Feeding 'Standard weight for show purposes is five pounds, and not over five and one-half, hence one must keep in mind continually that overfeeding conduces to overweight. In fact, they do not seem to require as much as a few other varieties of the same size to keep in good condition; and so far as the nature of food required, there is no essential difference with that of other breeds — with the exception, perhaps, that not quite as free a supply of greens be allowed. This latter conduces to a disease known as scours. Quarters Every one will readily understand, that a small variety of rabbit does not require so much room as a large variety. The quarters should be comfortable, clean for the sake of color as well as health, and sufficiently high to allow free jumping exercise. To keep down weight by exercise is far more desirous than doing so by stinting food. Exercise and air make for vigor and "blooming" fur. 23 standard of L'uints IJlazc and Cheeks 15 Clean neck 10 Saddle 10 Undercut 10 Feet-stops 15 Ears 10 Eyes 5 Color 10 Size, Shape and Condition 15 100 Negative Points Small specks on eyes to lose 10 Discolored, or wall eyes to lose 20 Distinct spots, or flesh marks 20 Over 5V^ pounds in weight 20 70 Angora In this country, the Angora has been heretofore an exclu- sively ornamental variety. It makes one of the most attractive pets one may wish, and in the show pen one of the finest exhibits. In several European countries, notably France, this variety is reared quite extensively for its fur as a source of income by the peasant folk — furriers buying all that is rendered. As a matter of information I will mention here, that one rabbit is estimated to furnish "wool" at a value of 5 to 7 francs per year, or approximately 20 francs for three years, after which it is considered worthless by reason of the "wool" becoming too coarse, and is then consigned to the peasant's food supply. One specimen is "pulled" twice each season, much after the method our forefathers employed to secure down from geese. To us hurrying and much-wanting Americans this source of income would scarcely appeal right now; but permit me to prog- nosticate, that time is not far distant when breeding rabbits for fur purposes will become an actual necessity — unless the wearer of fur and felt hats gradually affiliates himself with some sort of inferior substitute. Of this I have been assured by one of the largest manufacturers of felt hats in this country, and he qualifies his assumption by saying that "it will be but a few years from now for us to sec rabbit farms in every community." 21 A Splendid Angora. Note the wonderful ear furnishings BLACK AND WHITE ANGORA Colored Angoras come in Blues, Blacks, Grays and Fawns and combinations of these various colors with white. They are not so popular at present as the Whites. This would seem to bring the Angora forward as a desirable rabbit along these lines — essentially so for cross purposes with other varieties to attain the most advantageous fur. Among a batch of mongrel rabbits I shipped some time since to a New York commission house, was a specimen appar- ently the result of mating a near Angora with a part Belgian. The singularly beautiful fur attracted my attention and by look- ing it over carefully, was impressed with the possibility of what the hat industry opened to one who would give scientific attention toward the attainment of a species of fur rabbit for this purpose — possibly from cross-mating thoroughbred Belgians, Angoras, and Silver Greys. For Fancy As remarked for purposes of Fancy the Angora is very attractive, and makes an ideal pet. It is perhaps the most docile of all varieties, tolerating whatever handling is required to keep it so with entire freedom. Because of its long and delicate fur, it must of necessity be brought up in positively clean quarters. Constant disinfection must be applied to keep them so, and it must be remembered at the same time that all animals and creatures with long "wool" are ready carriers of disease germs. In its most perfectly developed form the Angora resembles a puffy ball of snow, with the head almost hidden within its fleece. The longer and finer in texture its wool, the higher its value as a Fancy specimen. Wiry type of fur is not desired nor correct, while a tendency for it to mat appears an evidence of high quality. It is bred, of course, mostly in white, though recently some effort is being made to bring out what are expected to be blacks and blues. These latter have created quite some controversy among their fanciers antagonistic to several judges who passed on them with considerable question — rather in the light of sports "in smoky color" than a bred up variety of true shade. The fur of blacks and blues has been found, also, to modify with each suc- cessive molt to an extent that one is scarcely distinguishable from the other. Breeding Out of the 100 points called by Standard requirements, 55 are demanded for quantity, quality and length of wool. This should indicate to the intelligent fancier along what lines speci- mens ought to be selected to reproduce these qualities; and since the procreative functions are always more pronounced in the male, it becomes essential that this side of the line is well bal- 27 anced. In no instance of breeding live stock am I in favor of feminine characteristics to preponderate in the male, but when mating Angoras for the particular qualifications above mention- ed I am positive that femininity on the fructifying side will pro- duce best results. A coarse male rarely fails to reproduce coarse effects in both body and fur of his offspring. True, have the female as fine and pure of fur as available, but rather let size and front furnishing be the preponderating characteristics. Tufts on the ears are also an essential show quality, and should preponderate in the male. Groominji Many an otherwise qualified specimen has failed to win, simply because it was carelessly groomed, or not at all; and to groom properly is a matter of no small attention. The exceeding fineness in texture of fur indicates that the skin is compactly covered with almost microscopic hair follicles, and to be in any way rough to these with coarse brush, comb, or confections, possibly, means a coat that will eventuate into coarseness. P'irst essential, then, is to keep the skin clean and healthy from the day youngsters begin to show Angora wool type. For some months this is not a bothersome attention, pro- viding the quarters are kept clean and well bedded with shav- ings or fine hay. An abundance of the latter will do wonders by merely sifting through the fur, but to accustom the ball of wool to handling, and nurture the tender skin so its covering remains soft and fluffy, occasional brushing with a freely flexible wire brush, followed by a medium bristled hair brush, is desirable. At any rate, do not permit the coat to mat. But should this happen, and the specimen is desired for exhibition purposes, a genuine shampoo becomes necessary. Whatever one fails to do, under no circumstances fail in preventing vermin getting into the coat of an Angora; for here is trouble that becomes very real once it has a start. To prepare a specimen for exhibition, one's object must be to have the skin and fur virgin white and clean, which is best accomplished by means of a shampoo and dry brush. Select a warm place, say 75 to 80 degrees, and water of at least 98 to 104. Apply the shampoo with the wool scruffed "wrong way," use gentle rubbing, and then wash off with clean warm water, followed by a rub down from a soft Turkish towel. Before the fur is altogether dry, dash through it a bit of good Bay Rum, then finish. When brushed well, muss up the fluff and sprinkle through it borated talcum powder, which is in turn thor- oughly gotten out by liberal brushing "in every direction" until 28 the wool is woozly soft as the driven snow. There is no danger of the specimen taking cold if these directions are observed. Just be sure the fur and skin is entirely dry, and when Bay Rum and talcum is applied its pores are effectually protected. I have often been asked what to do for the removal of brass- iness and stains, and "what to apply to make a pelt pure white?" If brassiness is not inherent with the strain, and stains have not remained too long, a shampoo is usually sufficient. But remem- ber, there is a vast difference in brassiness acquired from envir- onment and that of heredity, and in a properly cared Angora ought not to show. Standard of Points Quality of wool 30 Length and quantity 25 Front furnishing 10 Ears— tufted 10 Size and Shape 15 Condition ". 10 100 Himalayan In Europe this variety of rabbit is reared in considerable quantity for its fur, and many fashionable women carry pelts with the belief that they are wearing beautiful ermine. The Himalayan is one of the handsomest species of domestic rabbit that can be desired, and beside being an ideal pet, brings real satisfaction to the critical fancier in the breeding of it for classic points. It is worthy of a stronger position in the Fancy than it now occupies. By the way of description it has a beautiful white coat of short, fine, flossy fur, soft as down, and looks at one v/ith droll, attentive pink eyes. The nose, ears, tail and four feet are deep chocolate black, a beautiful contrast to the white dress over all. If these back points are deep and dense, and nicely even separ- ated from the white, a specimen becomes all the more enhanced in value. The young when born are white entirely, but about a month old the dark extremities begin to come out gradually, and at four months their development is complete. A singular peculiarity about this variety is the anomaly of their black points growing lighter on exposure in the sun, and for this reason their breeding should be conducted in hutches with subdued light. Indoor quarters would therefore appear best adapted for successful effect, and which, on account of the deli- cate fur, must be kept scrupulously clean. 23 \ In size a specimen should weigh about four pounds, and in general physical outlines conforms harmoniously with that of Dutch. Ears are neat, small comparatively, and black to the roots. No dewlap. White fur entirely free from blemishes of alien color. To make all salient points clear with regard to rearing this variety successfully, I will quote verbatim how a reliable breeder says in "Fur and Feathers" he goes about it: "Allow the young to remain with the doe until they are 8 or 9 weeks old. If you take them away before, they will in all probability stop growing, and a young Himalayan must keep on growing until it has got all its points cleared. "With regard to mating, the question of relationship does not concern me so much as fitness from the standpoint of increas- ing points of excellence, and correcting faults. I never trouble about how closely they are related, providing they are perfectly sound and robust. Never on any account inbreed from stock tainted with any kind of disease, or regret is sure to follow. For my part I like stock closely inbred, because it keeps your opera- tions more closely confined. (Of this theory associated with breeding the English fancier is virtually obsessed. I will refer to it in the chapter on Belgians. — Author.) These are the lines I work on, and I feel sure a great many of the most successful breeders of live stock have done the same. "As to feeding, I never found that Himalayans wanted treat- ing any different to other kinds of exhibition rabbits, only per- haps, that you should not give them quite as much green food, and not change it quite so often or so suddenly, as they are very subject to looseness. In very hot weather let them by all means have a drink of cooling water; but don't leave it in the hutches that they knock it over, for this soils them, and spoils the color of the feet. "And now I must get to feeding. Some Himalayan fanciers swear by hard feed and some by soft, but I don't stick to either. I just give them a nice change as often as I think good for them and if I find a rabbit does not care for the food I am giving, I take it away and give something it does like. Oats and wheat are the staple food for breeding stock and growing youngsters, but when preparing them for exhibition I like soft food, because I can mix together various kinds of food of an oily nature, and this keeps them on the move, and the molt. As soon as I have got their points clean, however, I give them hard feed, and three times a week some bean and pea meal, just to tighten them up and get them in fine condition. 30 O (Tl It C S» 2,»e O 3^ 1 2 s- 3-3 5^ « S. o ^ "I have referred to food of an oily nature, but this in no way gives them color, which must be bred for, though it gives their dense points a lustre which is so fascinating, and which a judge likes. Some of the oily foods I used were linseed and molassine meal, whilst I have also used with great success a mixture of cod-liver oil and lime water — the lime water taking away the fishy taste from the oil. This is a fine conditioner and flesh-forming food for any kind of rabbits that are inclined to be poor and in low condition. "And just a few lines with reference to stained eye-lids. I am very much afraid we shall have this defect for a considerable number of years; in fact, I very much question if it will ever be gotten rid of, unless Himalayan fanciers import quite a fresh lot from their native land." Regarding the above points on care and feeding for Him- alayans I quote the writer entire, for the reason that he conveys with but slight modification the process pursued by virtually the whole English Fancy. It gives the reader a clear idea how fancy rabbits are reared over there, and to what fastidious lengths they will go to make a specimen showy. After results do not seem to be considered, and in the light of such effort, with its noncommittant environment as to climate and limited quarters, one need not wonder that stock coming from there is without stamina, and too frequently diseased. Once we are obliged to rear stock for show effect only, there will be small interest for the scientific breeder. I allude to the efforts of forcing Nature to yield beauty at the expense of inherent physical qualities. It is a physiological fact, that rabbits with pink eyes are not so tolerant of light as those with dark. As an act of com- fort therefore, if for no other reason, they should be kept in dim light quarters; and particularly should the young be protected until at least six weeks old. Standard for the Himalayans Density, Shape and Size of Markings: — Hind feet 25 Fore feet 15 Ears 15 Tail 5 Nose 15 Quality of fur 10 Shape 5 Size 5 Condition 5 100 Silver Grey Here is a distinctly useful variety of domestic rabbit, and in referring to its physical characteristics, I wish at the same time to express a hope that shall actuate a better appreciation for the real merit to which it is entitled. On superficial observation the Silver will scarcely be esti- mated as handsome, but on close examination of a correctly bred specimen there will be discovered a delicacy of fur that is more like silk than wool, and when that beautiful "pepper and salt" silvering is seen shimmering through it, there can not fail of real enthusiasm for the production of a good type animal. The Silver is neither large nor small, ranging from five to seven pounds. It has not the racy, reachy style of the Belgian, nor the compactness, "get-togethei*" appearance of the Flemish. Fine of bone, clean and dainty, delicately valuable fur, and as near an ideal meat as the most fastidious epicure can demand. Indeed, it is almost too fine a meat, so that cross-mating, say with the Belgian largely enhances its food value. I have given consideiable attention to finding the origin of this variety, and while it is essentially an English product, the several fanciers who have rendered an opinion were so diversi- fied that I am loath to say anything authoritative. One may inquire why this variety is named "silver Grey" rather than merely "Grey," as one is readily impressed on first seeing a correct specimen. There is a certain shimmer to the fur that clearly conveys the tinge of silver, due to a proportion- ate number of tipped hairs evenly distributed, known as ticking. The shade may vary from light to dark silvering according to the greater or lesser quantity of light hairs. In fact, from the stand- point of Fancy, the value of a Silver is estimated entirely by the evenness of its silvering, which ought to be as near alike over all the animal as possible — ears, nose, feet and tail should match body color. Undercolor is by some termed slate blue, and by others blue black. This should extend distinct to the skin. What is often an otherwise good specimen Silver Grey is frequently made inferior by entire lack of undercolor on the chest — a point to be con- stantly kept in mind when one's matings are made up, or new stock purchased. Likewise, specimens that are otherwise evenly silvered but have a "cloudy appearance" usually possess a strain from the Browns. SILVER GREY A beautiful variety, not given the attention in this country it deserves. Excepting the defect of slight kinks in the ears (caused by hutch conditions) the above is a very good specimen. THt (lOit fon 0«T«n. OF T. OuTicnriv ROINC BONt OCfm>rioN flu 8^ FcATHea '■'-jL -■^^*] itc >. sucutot Chain M«RMiNiob. POOV tOlN MAPKINCS IDEAL ENGLISH RABBIT (NOTE: — Eliminate the "chain markings" and substitute two or more large patches for the body and loin markings in the above, and you have the ideal markings for the American Spotted Giant, the shape and size of which, however, corresponds to the Flemish Giant — see page 53.) •c- E-S c ■ l| Breeding There is but one essential to the successful breeding of Sil- vers — stock of even markings on both sides. This implies that males and females are as near like one another as one can possibly have them. If anything, undercolor is perhaps of more vital consideration than surface color, which, as remarked, must have the evidence of even silvering. The coat should be short, and of such feel and consistence like silk. It is claimed by breeders of this variety, that richness of silvering is intensified by warmth. This, of course, comes from the English method of rearing the variety, and where climate and consequent environment must be considered, also the pro- priety of winter breeding, always injudicious unless accompanied by artificial heat. The latter is a factor only when one breeds for show classes as scheduled according to age limits at all times of the year. At the age of six months the finished lustre of a Silver is supposed to be complete. Standard of Points Undercolor, a deep rich blue black 25 Evenness of silvering throughout 20 Sharp, even bright ticking 15 Short, full coat 10 Ears, neat, well set on; bold, bright eyes 10 Size — about six pounds 5 Condition and shape 15 100 Silver Fawn, Silver Brown, and Silver Blue are varieties not recognized to any appreciable extent in this country. At shows one sees occasional specimens purporting to represent them, but their breeding is of such uncertain success, as to warrant scarcely any real interest in their support. For utility purposes, they are just as appropriate as the Grey. Stand- ards — except color — same as Silvers. 37 Engl is n This hs a "made" rabbit by English fanriors, and among them has many staunch admirers. It cannot lay claim to super- ior merit over any other variety beyond the singular markings that characterize it, and correctly bred, these are quite beautiful and odd. The breeding of English rabbits is always surrounded with considerable uncertainty, and in no variety is the necessity for reliability of strain emphasized as perhaps in this. Lately, also, some slight modifications in their Standard markings have been made that do not by any means simplify breeding. Persistent inbreeding is the more likely road to success to- ward characteristic points, and as our English friends invariably do, they follow it with a vengeance. The peculiar markings which typically identify this variety are known as "herring bone" and "chain" — the former from shoulder along the entire back, and the latter along sides, ending on both shanks. Ears are solid black and the eyes are also sur- rounded by a solid circle. "Butterfly" nose is considered by many as important a point as that relating to ears and feet. Standard Points for the English Rabbit Head Markings: — Perfect butterfly smut 15 Circle around each eye 8 Eye spot, clear from eye circle 6 Eye, clear and bold 3 Ears, neat and free from white, not over four inches long 5 Body Markings: — Neat saddle, herring-boned in any dis- tinct color 10 Sides of body to be nicely broken up in small patches, not to catch saddle markings 12 Chain markings, even as possible on each side 12 Leg Markings: — One distinct spot on each leg . .Fore leg 6 Hind leg 2 Belly spots, should be six G ■ Color 5 Size and shape, 6 to 8 pounds 5 Condition, good coat, not baggy 5 100 88 Polish This is the "White Rabbit of Easter," and when bred to Standard qualifications, is an exceptionally handsome variety. It is pure white over all, has pink eyes, and in physical out- lines closely resembles the Himalayan (without the dark points). In shape it is neat, and not by and means pudgy, and has little in common with the white rabbits one sees running about yards, kept in filthy small boxes by children, and reared mostly for Easter occasion. Very few of these are Polish. With its solid whiteness that gives continuity to outline, there is apparent all the while something striking in the spry and bold appearance to the animal, and quite typically accentuated in the inquisitive pink eye. When on the alert there is a characteristic grace that removes all compactness out of the body, with the result of real beauty in outlines. Its fur is of fine quality, short, close to the body, smooth and of silky texture. Ears are short, well set on, thin, and finely covered with fur, the latter point being good evidence of thor- ough breeding. Because of their immaculate whiteness — and, by the way, there must be no evidence of brassiness in the coat — Polish must be bred in clean hutches, so constructed as to prevent direct sun- light into them. There are no rules of special importance for mating other than the male and female should be well matched as to quality of fur, ear finishing and perfect health. Any evidence of brassiness must also be avoided, a caution quite essential when new speci- mens are purchased. Standard Points for Polish Shape 15 Size — three to four pounds 10 Quality of fur 25 Purity of color 15 Ears 15 Eyes 15 Condition 5 100 39 Havanas This is one of the very latest varieties and was first intro- duced as an exhibition specimen into England, in 1910. The cor- rect color is dark brown to dark chestnut brown and blood red brown changing with the varying light. From Holland, Havanas have been sold to go to France, Switzerland, Germany, and quite a few have found their way into the United States. In France they appear to have been crossed with the Belgian Hares, the color of these specimens being light tan brown, and the frame and ears are consequently much larger than in the original variety. The pelts are of considerable commercial value as an imitation beaver. Furriers require a rough, longish coat, and the Dutch variety appears to be the one most bred for this pur- pose. Havanas are strong and hardy and easily reared in outside hutches of ordinary dimensions. The show type that appears to be superior is the smaller, neat, short coated variety. The larger ones often exhibit a dewlap and are somewhat coarse and awk- ward looking. The eye is deep brown, changing to ruby and quite a feature of the variety whose most pronounced fault after the variation in color, appears to be a preponderance of white hairs in body and ears. The general appearance of the Havana is somewhat similar to the Imperial, with a decided blue cast to be seen on the belly and thighs. There are wonderful possibilities in the Havana and we look forward to them becoming great favor- ites in the United States. Standard of Points for Havana Rabbit Color — A rich, bright brown all over, with undercoat of pale grey 35 Shape and Size — Exceedingly fine and elegant, somewhat like the Black-and-Tan. Head and neck medium. Weight, when full grown, not to exceed bVz pounds 20 Ears— (Four inches long, fine in substance, small, straight and carried upright 10 Feet — Very slender and straight, with brown toe nails .... 10 Eyes — liarge, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the pupil, yet having a soft and gentle expression 5 Coat — Short, fine and silky 15 Condition 5 100 40 Black and Tan This beautiful and interesting variety has but few admirers in this country. It is essentially an English product, and is sup- posed to have its origin in the cross of a domestic with the wild rabbit (not hare) of England. In shape, and to an extent in markings, it has considerable identity with the Dutch. The points are, of course, Black and Tan, each color distinct for the parts to which they are attributed and must be free from alien splotches. Tan must be of a deep and dense color distributed as follows: — front, sides, feet and hind legs, jowls and face. Ears are small and the eyes are very bold, after the instinct of wild rabbits. Standard Points of Black and Tan Tan, deep and rich 15 Black, dense 10 / Triangle 5 Distri- \Hind feet 10 , J Fore feet 5 bution < ^^^^^ ^^^ p^^^j^ ^^^ ggjjy ^^ of Tan / Nose, Eyes and Jowls 5 V Ears, in and outside margins 5 40 Shape, that of Dutch 5 Size — about four pounds 5 Ears, short and black 10 Eyes 5 Condition 10 100 Blue and Tan is identical with the above, blue taking the place of Black. Weight of both varieties, 4% to 5 pounds. 41 Imperial The ideal Imperial may be described as follows: Shape and size, similar to that of a Belgian buck, but shorter in limb and weighing, when full grown, from 6 pounds to 7 pounds. Color, dark blue, of one even shade throughout. P'ur, soft and bright, and rather longer than in the short haired varieties. Head, nar- row and tapering, eyes being long, bright, and deep blue in color. The ears should be about 4^2 inches long, round at the tips, carried erect, and set rather closely together. The com- monest faults are white hairs intermixed with the blue, rusty color, brown eyes and bars of a lighter or darker color on feet. Standard of Points for Imperial Rabbit Shape and Size 25 Ears 15 Eyes 5 Head, narrow and tapering 10 Color 25 Coat 10 Legs and Feet 5 Condition 5 100 Selfs It was not my intention to touch on Selfs and yet the book would scarcely be complete without some reference to the" en- deavors being put forth at present to popularize Self-Blacks and Blues. The production of such varieties presents little difficulty in the matter of color, and all that is required to be done is to reduce size and shape to the Standard governing the Polish or White Self rabbit. Breeders of these new varieties which give every proof of rapidly becoming popular are obtaining them by different meth- ods. Blacks are being bred by mating dark Silver Greys and the common wild rabbit, caught when young and tamed, and from Polish and Silver Greys. Both Self-Blacks and Blues are com- mon enough in litters of tan and English and this presents an easy method of obtaining stock. Self-English are, however, much too strong in type, and therefore not the best means of securing the desired end. The first method of producing Blacks is the best and for Blues the Self-Blues often bred in a litter of tans is equally useful. 42 No Standard of points has been drawn up, as yet. The only guide to breeders is the Standard for Polish. Neatness, short- ness of ears and coat, combined with purity of color, are the points to aim for, and the rabbits when produced are to be of the "bantam" variety. There is no doubt about the success of the newest of new varieties, providing the Polish type is adhered to, and it is safe to predict a successful future for Selfs. American Blue (Formerly Called The Vienna Blue) This variety is an introduction from Germany, where it has been extensively bred for meat and fur. The color is a beautiful dark steel blue throughout, with eyes to match. As compared with the Flemish, it is more upright and shapely, and weighs about ten pounds. Dewlap small. Standard of Points Color 25 Shape 20 Weight 10 Ears 5 Eyes 5 Head 5 Legs and Feet 20 Condition 10 100 Japanese The Japanese rabbit is rather an oddity and is very rare in this country. The color scheme is intended to represent the rising sun, and consists of irregular circles or bands and patches of different colors, running around the body to represent the sun's rays, and the undercolor, varying from cream to brick red, representing the sun. While the markings may be very irreg- ular, they must be clear and distinct and not of a mottled appear- ance. In shape they are short and thick-set and weigh about eight pounds. Standard of Points Markings 30 Undercolor 20 Shape 20 Ears and Head 10 Fur 10 Condition 10 100 43 The Flemish Giant As the name implies, this is the largest of all varieties of rabbits. By reason of its size the meat for food purposes is not as fine grained as that of its more classic rivals, the Silver and Belgian; but on the whole is quite desirable from the fact that it does not require many months to reach the same equivalent in weight which others attain only at maturity. Its meat is there- fore all the more tender and appetizing. The origin of the Flemish is somewhat obscure, but late in the '60's or early in the '70's, there was developed in Holland and Belgium a cross-bred rabbit that was given the name "Leporine." Later this was introduced into England, and here is what one author says about it: "Since Leporines so-called were introduced into this country they have been bred continuously, but with dis- tinct and different objects — in the one for size, and in the other ostensibly to develop a rabbit of the form, color, and fur of the wild hare. The larger race has been called Patagonian, but is now recognized in a different type as the Flemish Giant." It is of course, then, a "made" rabbit, which accounts, no doubt, for the difficulty encountered by fanciers to breed reliable markings. By reason of its immense size, the Flemish can without pre- judice be named King of fancy rabbits. Specimens have been produced that were said to weigh 20 pounds, while the average weight of Standard bred stock should be at least from 14 to 16 for females, and 12 to 15 for males. Whether this can be attained by American methods under the environment and climatic conditions peculiar to this country, remains to be seen. If one can not, or does not care, to breed this variety for Fancy, it is of excellent utility use. The mother being large, naturally has more nourishment for her young than a smaller variety; so that by a bit of attention to feeding, her offspring can be made to weigh near 4 pounds at six weeks, and at 3 months will reacji 6 pounds. One fancier informed me that he has grown them ^ 8 pounds, and some 9 at three and one-half months old. In 4h^ event, the Flemish should prove decidedly profitable as a iKp^et proposition. 44 n o o D (/) H n o n 3g 2. m 3 >■ :^ n 2. " S" Mating In all my remarks with reference to the different varieties, I shall speak of them in the light of being thoroughbred stock. I am not in favor of mongrelism for any purpose, and all the less so in any living thing that is utilized for either food or Fancy use. The methods suggested are therefore done so with a view to qualify for Standard requirements, and the breeder can so apply them whether rearing stock for show or market purpose. When getting ready to mate, look over the stock with care and see that all intended specimens are sound and of good coat. Consider size and evenness of color with particular criticism. For utility, no particular rule for mating is essential other, perhaps, than size and health, and it has been experienced that nice, dark bucks mated to "smoky" does will produce the largest stock as to frame and weight. For show purposes, however, matters are considerably different. Each specimen must be made an individual study with a view to fight against every fault that should not appear in an exhibition entry. One must pair up for length of frame and massiveness, and to this end select specimens as near Standard in points of merit as one has been. Any defect in one of a pair always appears liable to show itself with more emphasis than a desirable point so that it is all the more important to select breeders of perfect body, good ears well set on, nice large eyes, straight and strong limbs, perfect set tail, massive and firm body as near of the steel grey color as possible. Mate dark steel greys, if one has them; but if there is ruddiness in one of the mates, it must not be on the male side. A black or intensely dark steel buck mated to a ruddy doe, usually gives good results; for in breeding Flemish it appears necessary to frequently fall back on black to maintain the essential dark tinge for true steel color effect. A black buck mated to a light steel grey, doe will reproduce dark steel greys, and a dark steel grey buck mated to a black doe will result in a shade that seldom fails to attract a knowing judge. Littering The period of gestation is 31 days, and if it varies more than a day longer, or two at most, there is something wrong. The doe will begin building her nest, and pull fur to line it with, any time from 10 days to an hour or so before due to kindle, so that it is necessary for her to have material for the purpose such as short hay or straw scattered about the hutch. Have the nest box so situated, if possible, that one can look into it without moving out of place, and sufficiently roomy for 47 the doe to have free movements within so as to obviate danger of trampling thi- young. And I will say here, that Flemish re- quire larger quarters in general than any other variety, because of their size. Plenty of room means better success with them. A few days before the doe is due to kindle have before her continually a dish of clean, fresh yater. Many does become feverish at this time, and will not infrequently destroy their young if the desire for water cannot be satisfied beforehand. This would be unfortunate, and occasionally it genders the desire for blood to the extent of making cannibals out of them with every subsequent litter. After the doe has kindled look over the nest and see if any dead are among them. If so, remove these with as little dis- tui'bance as possible, at the same time diverting the mother doe's attention away from the nest with some tempting greens or other delicacy. The matter of permitting a doe to bring up an entire brood is for the breeder to decide, but best results will eventuate by leaving no more than six at most. Above this number calls for extra attention with food and care. I know not a few who have succeeded in bringing up litters of 9, 10 and 11, one instance of which turned out every one a prize winner. But as a matter of Fancy, few fanciers permit a doe to rear more than four, fostering the remainder with a doe bred at the same time, or destroying the smaller ones out of a batch. With Flemish, or other of the giant varieties, it is desirable to attain as rapid and as much growth from the first day on as one can, and the more youg there are in a nest, the more each will hinder the other's development. It is only a matter of several days, also, until there is a tyrant in the lot who preempts more than his individual share. Flemish in the nest can from the first day be quite well selected for quality as to prospective standard points, like this — steel greys are known by their pink bellies and dark backs, while the blacks are virtually one shade on back and belly alike. What will turn out as light greys will have decided pink bellies, the tinge of which spreads well up the sides. During the time a doe is suckling her young, an excellent dish to help growth is a sop of bread and sweet milk in con- nection with the evening mess. This is also an ideal "condi- tioner" for the young after leaving the nest up to six weeks old. With regard to feeding generally, each fancier seems to have a method he personally thinks best. Some do quite well, while 48 others have less success; but I am safe in saying that more rab- bits are lost from injudicious and too frequent overfeeding, than from insufficient and less frequent. All varieties are fed along similar lines. But just bear in mind continually that the giant varieties require approximately more food. Standard for Steel Grey Flemish Giants Size and Weight Bucks 12 pounds or more. Does 14 pounds or more. Points Size considered, irrespective of weight 30 Color — Dark steel grey, even or wavy ticking over entire body; head, ears, chest and feet alike. Belly, and under part of tail as near white as possible 20 Body — Large, roomy and flat, with broad fore and hind quarters. Does to have dewlap, evenly carried 15 Legs and Feet — Strong in bone, large and straight, color of them to match that of body 15 Head and Ears — Head large, full and shapely, with large bold eye of dark brown color. Ears moderately thick, carried neatly erect. Head and ears to match body color 10 Condition — full, short coat, flesh firm, healthy 10 100 Cuts and Disqualifications Any grey, steel, sandy, or other shade on the belly or under tail, except a streak of grey in each groin, sandy, brown, or red color mixed through the body fur should be penalized according to quality of competing specimens. Inferior size, crooked legs, barred feet, screw tails, lopped ears, camel backs, and small narrow heads, or heads entirely too "bull-shaped," are disquali- fications. I will also add, that there is no small tendency for Flemish to throw a ruddy brown color shade; and while stock of this tinge usually has the making of large specimens that will do well for utility use, as show exhibits they are absolutely worthless in the eyes of an expert judge. To breed true and harmonious steel grey, is no easy matter, and the correct Standard shade; or rather, permanent color is rarely apparent in its perfect tone until completing the second molt. NOTE — The Standard calls for belly "as near white as pos- sible" thereby following along lines laid down by English fan- ciers, who demand "pure white." However, it is impossible to 4? get a white belly, or even nearly white, without more or less sandy color cropping out on neck and legs, hence the American breeder, in order to get the beautiful even body color, generally favors the German Standard which demands an even color throughout. The best American judges favor an even dark steel grey body color, harmoniously blending into a somewhat lighter shade on the belly. Grey Flemish Giants The Grey Flemish Giant is a strain of the Flemish bred more particularly for great size that is not attainable in the Steel Grey variety. The Steel Grey has been bred with certain color requirements in view, and to this end size has been sacri- ficed to some extent by infusing blood of some of the smaller varieties, such as the Silver Greys, Himalayans, etc. In the Greys, considerable latitude in color is permitted by the Stand- ard, any shade of grey not conflicting with the Steel Greys, (steel grey is a disqualification in this variety), either light grey, sandy or reddish grey, but should be as nearly uniform as pos- sible. Size to be as great as possible, not less than 13 pounds for the bucks and 15 for does — five points cut for each pound underweight. Bodies to be long and massive, broad quarters, strong and powerful legs and feet. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. Standard points as follows: Size and Weight 30 Color 20 Head 5 Ears 5 Body and Quarters 20 Legs and Feet 5 Condition 15 100 50 Solid Colored Giants The color should be solid throughout, free from any foreign color. Weight and size same as the Steel Grey Flemish. The White Giants should have pink eyes; others, eyes to match body color. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. Standard of points as follows: Size ;75' ;..'.....". 30 - Color 20 Body ...15 Legs and Feet 5 Head, Eyes and Ears 10 Condition 20 100 American Spotted Giants (Formerly Called the German Checkered Giant) This beautiful rabbit was introduced into this country a few years ago from Germany. Its great utility value, being equal to any of the Giant varieties in that respect, and its beautiful markings, are rapidly making for it a place in the front ranks of both fancy and utility breeding. In size and weight it ranks with the Steel Grey Flemish, but possibly somewhat lighter boned. The color of the perfect specimen is identical with that of the English rabbit, except that it does not have the "chain markings" and the patches on the sides of body should be large and but few in number as compared to the English. There should, however, be not less than two of these patches. The "butterfly," eye circles, cheek spots, teat marks, ear and saddle markings, all similar to corresponding English markings, may be of any solid color, but must be unuorm. The body color is pure white. Disqualifications, any two colors in the markings, absence of important markings, side patches and saddle mark- ings in solid patch. Does to have dewlap evenly carried as in all other Giant varieties. Standard of Points Head 5 Ears 10 Body 20 Legs 10 Size and Weight 20 Color 25 Condition 10 100 51 J: > Q, a .£•5 b( V The Belgian Giants The Belgian Giant is the result of crossing the Belgian Hare and the Flemish Giant for a meat type. In color characteristics it should measure up closely to that of its more aristocratic brother, the Belgian Hare, but in shape and size should be large and imposing, with legs rather heavy boned, similar to other varieties of the Giant varieties. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. The Standard Size 25 Body 20 Color 15 Head, Ears and Eyes 15 Legs and Feet 15 Condition 10 100 New Zealand Reds The New Zealand Red is one of the latest additions to the list of "American made" rabbits and has become one of the most popular. It made its first appearance about 1906, and was claim- ed by its promoters to be an introduction and importation from New Zealand. Investigation has shown that no such rabbit is indigenous to New Zealand, but that a rabbit of somewhat simi- lar appearance to the first so-called New Zealand Reds that ap- peared in this country, now inhabit the southern part of New Zealand, having been originally imported to that country from Scotland, and was there known as the Scotch rabbit. Be that as it may, the animal, as it now exists, is, without question, an American made product, bearing but little resemblance to its reputed ancestors. Because the animal is so evidently a product of the ingenu- ity and skill of American fanciers, rather than that of some al- leged importation of foreign stock of doubtful character, and, believing American breeders should be honored by conferring upon it a good old American name, instead of a foreign one, an attempt was made in 1916 to change the name to American Reds. This move was, however, defeated because of the tremendous popularity the variety had already attained under its original name. The rapidly growing popularity of this variety caused much spirited discussion, and some misunderstandings and bit- 53 teriiess, but at last all factions got together and are now united in presenting their claims for a variety that is certainly second to none in the rapidity with which it has improved in color and type, as well as gained in popularity. Like the American classes in poultrydom, the New Zealand may be styled as the "happy medium" between the light-weights and the heavy-weights. While not so large as the Giant varie- ties, it matures more quickly, reaches a "frying size" on less feed than the Giants, and is more meaty than its smaller, though per- haps more aristocratic cousin, the Belgian Hare. There seems to be a tendency among some breeders to breed for extremely heavy weight — to make Giants of them. This is a serious mistake, and I am inclined to think that judges should penalize overweight just as severely as underweight. The New Zealand is in a class by itself, and to my mind, it would be folly and ruinous to the variety to try to compete with the Giants in size. The New Zealand occupies much the same position on the commercial rabbit plants as the White Leghorn does on the com- mercial egg farms — that is, at the head of the list. Don't de- stroy that position by destroying its individual characteristics. In length of body and breadth of quarters, the New Zealand should be, as the Standai'd has it, "medium," and with legs "medium heavy boned." A good specimen will give the idea of strength and meatiness, but more agile and without the clumsy massiveness of the Giants. In color, they should be a "reddish buff, carried well down to the skin and evenly over the sides and hindquarters, free from black hairs, not dark or smudgy, or light buff. Belly, red- dish cream." Legs and feet same as body, free from white. Ears same as body and without black lacing. Eyes hazel in color. Does to have dewlap evenly carried. Standard weights: Bucks, 9 pounds; does, 10 pounds. Standard of Points Head 5 Ears 10 Eyes 5 Color 30 Shape 10 Weight 20 Legs and Feet 15 Condition 5 100 54 ANOTHER PRIZE-WINNING NEW ZEALAND A (JOOD BELGIAN HARE DOE— Full of life and viKor. Note the alert "racy" appearance typical of this variety. The Belgian Hare By Dr. W. F. Roth Introductory As alluded in a former chapter what I shall remark concern- ing methods of rearing, and the "keeping" of Belgians in general, can be applied to all varieties heretofore mentioned. There is no essential difference in housing, cleanliness, feed- ing, and practical attention other than the salient points speci- fied with each variety. The general principles for mating, breed- ing, the matter of pedigree records, and bringing up along intel- ligent lines, apply virtually alike in all. Of all the varieties of domestic rabbits, the Belgian Hare has maintained highest popularity. This is due largely to its many excellent qualities in all respects, and correctly bred, offers to both fancier and utility breeder the widest scope for satisfaction and usefulness. And bred, also, in harmony with Standard char- acteristics, there is about it a grace and beauty in both shape and color that is not found in any other variety. Origin There is no positive information available as to correct origin of the Belgian Hare. Its name would have one naturally infer that it originated in Belgium, but I am not aware that it was by Belgian breeders ever designated by the subjoined term Hare, unless in later years. An English writer says: "The Belgian Hare is so called from its resemblance to our English hare, and from its Belgian origin. It has, however, no blood relationship or affinity to lepus timidus (common hare), but is to all intents and purposes, a rabbit." Technically, then, the Belgian is named Hare by courtesy, and is a rabbit in fact, the English wild hare being the pattern that has stood for fanciers of that country as an ideal toward which they have directed their breeding since its introduction from Belgium. With all this idealism, however, the Belgian will never be an ex- act likeness of its prototype, for without the admixture of blood from the latter there can be no more than a similarity. Belgian breeders claim, that what is now the upbred Belgian Hare was originated by them from a cross of the wild hare in- digenous to that country, and their common rabbit. This asser- 57 tion, though, has never been proven within my knowledge, and I doubt if it is true. If they have succeeded in mixing the blood of two distinct species of animals, it was going without the bounds of zoological probabilities, and what many have subse- quently attempted only with failure. There are, indeed, some features about our present Belgian that lend possibility to the claim, but when one appreciates the continual contention against development of the persistent rabbitry dewlap, there is less room for belief. Naturalists describe the wild hare of Belgium, by a "fur of dark reddish color, with white belly and weighs from six to nine pounds." In its original type the Belgian Hare, so named, was intro- duced into England sometime about 1856 to 1860. It came with the name Leporine. No immediate progress was made by Eng- lish fanciers, and it was not until some fifteen years later that attention was directed toward a specific type. In the last twenty years, however, much advancement was accomplished, largely accentuated by the interest aroused throughout this country. To better appreciate the idealism toward which Belgian fan- ciers breed with the wild hare as prototype, it will not be in- apropos to remark a bit of natural history concerning it here: — Virtually every country has a wild hare that is indigenous to it, and in no two countries are the species identical. That is, there is no difference in specie habits, but it is either larger or smaller, with such modification of color markings as its environ- ment seems to demand. America has several species, the most common of which is the "Northern Varying Hare," so named on account of accom- modating its color markings, as it were, to the locality it in- habits, in the northern countries changing entirely to white dur- ing the winter months. In summer it is brown, varied with black tipped hairs, the prevailing color in the more southern countries. Then we have the "Prairie Hare" (lepus campestris,) dis- covered by Lewis, and is never found east of Kansas. This spec- ies is most abundant about Salt Lake and in Utah generally. The fur is white in winter with here and there brownish spots, while in summer it is a yellowish grey. The "Wood Hare" (lepus sylvaticus) is a small variety, and frequently confounded with the common rabbit. It ranges from Hudson's Bay to Florida, and in physical characteristics has much in common with the wild rabbit of England. "Trowbridge's Hare" (lepus trowbridgii) is the smallest of all American species, and is found only on the Pacific coast. 58 The species which is indigenous to England and Scotland, is perhaps the most beautiful and characteristic of all, the world over; and as previously mentioned, it is this that has been made the prototype for attainment with the domestic variety. In natural history, the hare is described in the following language: "The common hare is known from the rabbit by the redder hue of its fur, the great proportionate length of its black- tipped ears, which are nearly an inch longer than the head; by its very long hind legs, and its large prominent eyes. When full grown it weighs on the average about 8 or 9 pounds, and some- times even 12 or 13. In total length it rather exceeds two feet, the tail being about three inches long. The color is greyish- brown on the upper portions of the body, mixed with a dash of yellow; the abdomen is white, and the neck and breast yellowish- white. The tail is black on the upper surface and white under- neath." This quotation is rather broad, and no doubt meant to be general for the hare species, while that native to England (the prototype of the Belgian Hare) is somewhat more pro- nounced, the animal being rather longer and consequently more racy. The English wild hare is typically "built" with long, thin fore legs, rather full chest nicely tapered into an upward trend of the belly that ends in a racy tuck-up at the flank, and the latter fortified by a pair of strong-shanked thighs of powerful propel- ing muscular action in the well-formed reachy hind legs. Color that of the fox in full "bloom," a rich tinge of old gold, and the back from shoulder to tail tipped with beautiful ticking, "like a wavy field of grass in summer." Ears erect, and "foxy" in at- tention and color, with pronounced black points. Head rather broad across the skull, short, strong, and a bit thick, with a "pop eye" that stands out bold and alert, quick and nervous as if taking in all surroundings at once. The wild hare will invariably bring forth its young in a nest (called a form) built on top of the ground, while the rabbit will "make a hole" (called a burrow) in the ground, line it with fur pulled from the mother's body, and have a litter of 4 to a dozen. The mother hare will rarely have more than four and more frequently but two or three. Another differing feature of the hare from the rabbit it is claimed, is that the former brings forth its young with the body covered with fine hair, and the eyes open, while the latter are born immature, uncovered by fur, and the eyes closed for ten days. I can not verify this assertion concerning the hare lever- ets out of personal observation; but from the fact that the hare and rabbit is both of the genus rodentiae, which are all night 59 foragers and born with eyes closed, I am at a loss to reconcila this particular characteristic. Distinctly, all Belgian Hares of consequence bred in this country are of foreign origin, and with but few exceptions, direct descendants of stock imported from England. What specimens came to America from Belgium and Germany are as different from the English type as a Percheron is from the Kentucky race- horse, and there is little about these that appeals to the classic fancier. One sees occasional advertisements of "Grey," "White," and "Black" Belgians. There are none such, and the name is more a whimsical misnomer for an uncertain cross-bred rabbit or the result of self-colored sports. Physical Characteristics When the expert horseman wishes to purchase a speedy driving animal, he first inquires where, and from what stock it is bred. It must, first of all, have an ancestry of recognized and demonstrated quality. This implies health, speed, and durability. Then he looks the horse over from every point of view — front, sides, behind, close and afar. He does this with the animal in pose and when in action, and notes every contour of head, body, and limbs. He wants a driving "machine" that has all its phys- ical parts harmoniously and scientifically adjusted for easy action that makes time with the least effort. Shape of head, expression conveyed by set of ears and attention in eyes, car- riage of tail, shape of body with taper toward flank, strong shank action beneath a well-fonned back — all these characteristics make for qualities desired. And so with the thoroughbred Bel- gian Hare. In speaking of its physical characteristics we have in mind all that one sees in outline, contour, shape, size, length of limbs, ears, eyes, expression and color markings. It is a picture of type that aims for an ideal, and as before mentioned, since this ideal is largely made up in the physical characteristics of the wild hare, it is necessary in breeding the domestic to constantly keep this before us. No one man in the Fancy the world over has done more to- ward bringing the Belgian Hare to its present physical status than Mr. John Noble of England. His high abilities as a scien- tific breeder, fine perception of physical points, and all require- ments that make for success, are only accentuated by the rare qualities of the man as shown by his gentlemanly courtesy to- ward every one, that I am willing to concede him all the honor so meritoriously but modestly earned. Mr. Noble has "made" the Belgian what it is more than any one else, and this is what he says about the making: 60 "I have made a special effort to develop the shape of the Belgian Hare ever since I decided to make this variety my spec- ialty, and have succeeded in breeding some of the best ever bred. Most fanciers know that we wish to breed to represent the wild hare in general style. You will therefore select your specimen with fore legs as straight and long as possible and the hind feet long and fine also; ears about five inches long, and carried similar to the wild hare; head (rather) long. The neck must fall low from the ears, with a graceful curve along the back, and a gradu- al rise to the hind quarters, which should be well rounded — not chopped off abruptly. "This specimen of which I have drawn the outlines is to a very large extent idealistic. A successful breeder is an idealist. You will always have pictured in your mind's eye what you wish to see realized. You will not be satisfied with your realization for as your practical efforts advance, your ideal keeps advancing. Consequently you are always living in a state of hope." Another breeder of note, Mr. Wilkins, has the following to say of the physical characteristics that to his mind constitute a typical Belgian: "The body of a Belgian should be long and fine in build; the forepart should not be heavy, but fine and graceful; the back nicely arched and rounded from shoulder to tail; the haunches round, not choppy; fore legs should be long, fine, and well set on; that is to say, they should be so placed as to lift the fore part of the body well from the ground and let plenty of daylight under it. The head of a Belgian should be long and lean, with prom- inent eyes full luster. The ears should be well set on the head, carried erect when in motion, and laid on the shoulder when in repose. They should not be too short, as shortness of ear causes a rabbity appearance. The correct length is five inches. The neck should be fairly long and slim in proportion to the body. The bones of the hind legs should be long and lean, not thick and chumpy. Tail should be straight and in no ways curled. The whole properties of the make-up of a Belgian should combine to present to the eye, as the wild hare does, a look of gracefulness and activity. A thick, choppy, angular Belgian is an abomina- tion." This latter picture is even more idealistic than the one drawn by Mr. Noble, and is decidedly more away from the real wild hare type, notably its head and neck. However, the possibilities of these pictures are exceedingly fascinating, and to attain them, a real art. It will be noted that in the above descriptions no mention is made of color characteristic — a feature that to many fanciers- 61 appears of almost greater significance, apparently, than that of shape; so that one might be led to think from this silence that color markings are of inferior importance. As previously re- marked, color should have its share of considerate attention, but never made to supersede shape. Nature is fickle with color iden- tity, as shown in the ever-changing variableness of the wild hare according to season and environment. The wild hare is the race-horse of the native rabbit family, and the Belgian that of the domestic bred. This point should be constantly in the fancier's mind when breeding for quality; so that by all science available in the breeding art he keep away from bulkiness, bigness, and general rabbity outlines, just as the breeder of speed-horses keeps away from the common farm pro- duct. But this is not to convey the inference that raciness of shape means necessarily a small animal. Standard weight is eight pounds, and this is not by any means difficult when one gets length rather than compactness. Leave the big, compact stock to the utility breeder, for this sort should never be specified as fancy, but made a distinct class by itself after the German and Belgian type. It is the trade in stock of this latter "make" that has done breeding for classic Belgians great harm, and it would not be injudicious to create two classes with a view of opening a channel for show recognition to breeders whose ideas for size outweigh those of raciness. This would place the utility rabbit on a basis of equal breeding for its particular qualities with that of the classic type. Possibly, too, the advisability of distinguish- ing names for clear differentiations of the two types would not be amiss. I shall add here, that associated with an understand- ing of physical characteristics there is frequently a misinterpre- tation of type for shape, so will insert what Mr. Ziegler, a lead- ing American fancier and judge, entertains as a proper definition of the former: — "Type is the aggregate of characteristic qualities. A Bel- gian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type, and again a specimen perfect in color may be a poor type. It takes good color and good shape to be a good type. A specimen that scores high according to Standard requirements is a good type, and one that would score 100 in shape, size, color and quality would be perfect type (est inventus). Quite often the word "type" is used when only shape is meant. The shape of the Belgian adds to the makeup of Belgian type, but by no means will shape alone determine its type." I will leave the interpretation of this quotation to each reader individually, and with it the inference that a show speci- 62 men of any species of exhibit judged by the score-card system, is subject to the judge's individual interpretations of score-card points; and that it is as rare as snow on Fourth of July for two judges unknown of each other to aggregate an identical average for the same specimen — a fact that demonstrates something "out of joint" with either the judge or the Standard, most likely the latter. So long as the English and American Standard remain as at present, comparison judging will be nearest correct and satis- factory. With regard to type, I am personally not inclined that color takes a leading part, and has little more to do than a mark of identification possibly; nor does it appear to me logical that "a Belgian Hare true in shape might be a very poor type." Dewlap By visitor and novice the question has often been put to me: "What is that lump under the chin?" "Why is it there," and by the fancier and breeder, "How are we to get rid of it, since the Standard qualifies *no dewlap?'" The dewlap exists by reason of the' Belgian's rabbit origin, and to get rid of it has been an effort of all good breeders from the first; and while its riddance is not yet a complete success, I am glad to note that we are gradually "getting there" more and more. Technically, the presence of a limited dewlap does not dis- qualify in the show room under a competent judge, but speci- mens with pronounced accumulation of a "lump" should be con- demned both as breeders and exhibits, since it appears that the tendency to reproduce this objectionable point is quite prone; and all the more so when the least evidence of it is apparent in males. For purposes of Fancy, therefore, no buck should be used as a stock-getter that has not a clean, well outlined neck, and whose progenitors have been likewise so. Anatomically, the dewlap is neither fat nor gland, but rather a combination of both, with an added affinity to enlarge in har- mony with the functions of reproduction. It is virtually an ex- tension of the milk glands in modified form, and is greatly ac- centuated by frequent gestation. To out-breed it means atten- tion to the selection of proper stock, and to judicious mating with regard to frequency and age. What has been accomplished thus far is largely the result of junior matings, or matings with one side under age maturity, preferably the doe. In other words, there must be a doe, at least, a physiological condition of sub- normal development in the reproductive sphere, with consequent stock of finer physical proportions. That objection to the dewlap should exist, at least to a limit- ed degree, as a factor entering into classic breeding of Belgians, 63 does not necessarily follow; but since we aim to reproduce them as near true hare type as possible, its elimination becomes all the more necessary, for the more of it we have the less hare quality we possess. Personally, I have never seen a matron doe without any evi- dence of it at all, however slight, and I have seen many as well as bred of some of the best specimens yet produced; but if one can breed up to a standard of no evidence in junior does, and not much in matrons, we can be well satisfied when all other charac- teristics come within high quality. Success, if at all attainable, lies in a carefully sustained strain. Color Associated with breeding the Belgian, there has continually been more or less diversity of opinion as to what constitutes a correct color for it. In fact, fanciers have taken sides over the issue, and in many instances came near the point of acrimony about it. "The flame is not worth the candle" compared with the value of physical characteristics, wherein lies the true hare picture. Some advocate the deeper tinted shade styled by them "ma- hogany red," while others stand by the now popularized tinge specified as "golden tan." As will be seen, there is scarcely a decided opinion on any shade. -Standard requirement calls for "rufous red." Why this in- decisive term was made descriptive for color I am unable to say; and it is quite certain that the popular color now in vogue is, technically, not rufous. That the term is confusing is made ap- parent from various expressions vouch-safed by those trying to define it with specific wording, as "golden tan," "golden chest- nut," "chestnut tan," "mahogany red," "chestnut brown," "brownish red," etc. One customer wrote me he desired a doe with "dark red" color and another wanted one "cinnamon brown." The term rufous is derived from the latin root rubro, mean- ing red. Dictionaries define it as "a dull red tinged with brown." Tan nowhere enters into any definition of it; though to define the latter perhaps aids in understanding its association with the former. Tan is defined as "yellowish brown," or "to make brown by exposure to the rays of the sun." This would seem to imply what is to be conveyed by "golden tan." Breeding for Color Bear in mind from the outset, that to obtain color, even ap- proaching correctness, is the most difficult feature associated with breeding high class Hares. One can breed a thousand speci- 64 fa f w .. •< c 03 M « O V «x 3 oil ■" o ^ a a « a« o o mens, many among them of excellent shape and good looks in general, yet not one in the lot that comes up to finished color points. Breeding for color is the ignis fatus ever present with rearing Standard Belgians — "now you have it and now you don't" — but there certainly is a large pleasure in "trying to catch the thing." The first factor toward securing substantial color — and it is the substantial kind one wants — lies in the selection of breeding stock that is known to throw reliable depth of true tan. With this trait thoroughly established in a well built strain, many dis- appointments are already conquered. It will cost a bit more to start out with breeding stock of reliable reputation, but to secure specimens whose blood carry the science of years spent in its production, will place one a long ways on the road that has been hard traveling for the breeder before, and obviate many risks, disappointments, and other troubles that come with infer- ior stock. I can fortify this assertion with the assurance that in the past eight years not a single specimen marked white on feet or shanks has shown itself among my flock, nor a one without palpable shade of tan on the belly fur. As remarked in a former paragraph, the popular color tinge at present most prized by many good fanciers, and toward which the Fancy in general has been working since the past ten years, is "golden tan," so named. A good specimen is quite handsome, and to breed for this tinge considerable of a fascination; but I question the lasting qualities on account of its proneness to turn lighter with each successive generation. Unless one maintains constant infusion of blood from darker tans there will eventually be too much white. A Fancy, I dare say, has somev/hat the elements of society — an institution of changing moods — so that the color for Bel- gians today is by conservative fanciers classed more as a fash- ion than a point of lasting quality. Whatever point one breeds for, keep constantly in mind that the power of transmitting it lies strongest in the procreative energy of a properly selected male. This is as true of color as of all other physical characteristics. The female is more a medi- um through which a species is propagated than by it. Now and again one comes across what I shall term a masculine female, or a feminine male, if such are paired together, the stronger char- acteristic points will have their imprint from the former; but such matings are undesirable. To breed for color, therefore, seek the tinge that is desired in a carefully chosen buck. Study and settle in mind just what that tinge shall be, then select a male a least bit darker and 67 deeper; for it is better to breed with room for "back-breeding," than to select too light a tinge from the outset. If one decides on "golden tan," mate such a buck with a doe of the "chestnut tan" shade, and in both give particular attention to depth of undercolor. It is this latter that makes for permanency for the future. "If 'chestnut tan' is to be the tinge, have the doe a trifle lighter than the buck." Once one has carefully built up a hardy, reliable strain from vigorous progenitors, the task to bring just what is desired will not be so difficult. But permit me to assure my reader that hap- hazard matings with haphazard selected stock spells failure in all the salient points that make for interest in scientific breeding. It matters little whether these points imply color or physical characteristics, if one desires to build, the foundation must be philosophically right. There can be no true interest or enthusi- asm possible out of a makeshift source, and if these principles are not included in the makeup of prospective fanciers, they had better breed for market from the start. Personally, I admire "golden tan" color on a Belgian; but for permanent quality and persistent reliability, "chestnut tan" ap- peals to me as most desirable, and when seen in a specimen of rich bloom, there is something about it that speaks for dignity, quality and substance of breeding far surpassing the "flashy red" which needs continual nursing. Speaking of "golden tan" in his book Ambrose says, "one must remember that such is the most difficult color to produce and maintain, and that it can not be bred successfully without a judicious mixture of the deeper colored ones." Then a few lines farther on the same author says of the latter, "some, I know, pin their faith yet on the old chocolate shade, but these, when compared to a correct golden tan, appear absolutely shabby in the eyes of those who admire beauty for beauty's sake alone." The inconsistency in these quoted lines lies in the fact that "deeper colored ones" are an absolute necessity to the existence of "golden tans," and to breed the Belgian as a color object of "beauty for beauty's sake, alone," is superseding the physical characteristics that make it a distinct species with a fashionable fad. Wilkins, in his excellent description of what he considers ideal Hare characteristics, does not there associate color as one of them, yet in another part of his book says that "color in the Belgians is of first importance — it is the cardinal point." He too, like Ambrose, is a worshiper at the shrine of fashion. Indeed, the craze for "yellow" has become such a fad, that to placate a warning for the future welfare of Belgians is necessary. It has come to a pass that what is a prize winning specimen in the four 6:5 to eight months classes, and lauded as a wonder, will receive scant recognition ten months hence. When observing a Belgian Hare from a show point view one notes the colors to constitute black, white, and red, the latter being the prevailing body effect. Absolute white should be con- fined to the under surface of the tail alone, while that of the belly and under jaw should be tinged with rufous sufficient to give an appearance of rich yellow cream, verging into tan if possible. Such a specimen is evidence of reliable color breeding. Heretofore, there has been no small contention with points of white in the form of bars across the front feet, and streaks along inside of hind legs, often spreading over the top and down outside. There is no longer much trouble in this respect, owing to better fortified blood lines in well established strains. The fault was largely an outcome from admixture of "any old rabbit" by unscrupulous dealers in this country and England during the boom some fifteen years since. What black is apparent must be distributed from shoulders along the back, gradually widening down the sides and along the haunches, ending on a line across the root of the tail. This evi- dence of black is known by the term Ticking and consists, according to one authority of "long black hairs protruding through and among the golden tan ground color, and should be crumpled and wavy, and of a jet black." Others sig- nify that ticking is constituted of "red hair tipped with choco- late black." In harmony with the present tinge of desired "red," the latter is nearest correct. At this writing I have likely as near the correct "golden tan" as is possible to breed, in one of the most delicate colored bucks to be seen. Richness of blood is superb in the light of present desired tinge. He is out of a popular imported champion, and shows all characteristics of the new "fashion." On seeing him hop about the yard, there is scarcely any indication o f ticking. He appears "red all over," and fairly blazes with golden shimmer at twilight (the correct time to estimate true tinge); but when placed in sitting posture and the hand is gently stroked over the back, ticking comes out in almost solid wavelets over the surface, and down the shanks complete. Close examination shows the long hairs delicately tipped black — a deep chestnut black rather than jet — not more than 3r32 of an inch from their points, with the remainder of their length same hue as their shorter partners in thick profusion about. On the other hand, in an adjoining pen is a grandson of John Noble's great African Chief, the perfection of chestnut tan. 69 This specimen has not a white hair on his body except under side of tail; and while the above "golden" chap is an attraction to be admired, and would probably win over his partner, there is some- thing substantial about this fellow that stands for unchangeable- ness in color of a character which one can not do without for keeping the golden ones permanent. In this way he is just as rich of bloom as the yellow one, and as a breeder far superior for reliability. Ticking is alike in both superficially observed, neither showing waviness until stroked by hand. Personally, while I admire a heavily ticked specimen (pro- viding "red" beneath is right), too much black does not appeal. And few such can be found that will breed desirable rufous as associate color. What is meant by "wavy ticking" is the black-tipped hairs so placed in rather regular splotches as to resemble the effect of ripples on the water from a breeze. There should be no black hairs on the breast and chest, fore legs and hind legs. A small evidence on the head is admissible. Aside from the above references to distribution of white and black, the remainder of the animal should be "red," otherwise "golden tan" or "chestnut tan," according to the fancy of the breeder. As a digression I will insert a bit of relaxation right here: While sitting at my desk writing the above anent color, I was called out in the yard on a small matter of interest to the child- ren. This attended to, my topic came in mind, and I walked over to the hutches with the idea of seeing how my pets came up to Standard about color points I was trying to tell my readers in these lines. The day was more than warm (only 96 in the shade), and I found eight brood does on the floors all in like position flat on the belly, with fore and hind legs stretched out forward and back. They looked distressed of course, but the picture was a real pleasure; for here were eight, and seven of them as like one another in "color trimmings" as so many peas in a pod. Front feet and legs, breast, neck and ears, sides and hind feet and legs, so uniform in chestnut tan as to make one believe all came from one parent. And those babies with several of them ? Well, they were some Belgians in prospective, and I was more than ever impressed with the certainty of what I had on previous occasions advocated, that to attain best results in all particulars, one must mate his Hares in the season when Nature intended they should. Kindly bear in mind, too, that in using my stock as illus- trative to these remarks, I am not doing so with any advertis- ing motive. I breed out of pure pleasure and love for the little 7» pets, and for best possible quality entirely as a recreative hobby; and to illustrate from it is mere convenience. I have few to sell at any time, very limited room to breed Hares, and such poor health as to absolutely qualify my efforts. But the pleasure derived from their keeping is by all odds the keenest enjoyment I got out of any recreation in the past 40 years. But to return: Color points as influenced by age are often a perplexing feature to those not sufficiently long familiar with the breeding of Belgians. They often wonder why youngsters show so light in the first eight weeks — a fact apparent in all those bred from light tinged stock. This, however, will all change with normal conditions of growth, and if the strain is a reliable one as to evenness of tan, there need scarcely be any fear of white mark- ings. Gradually as age advances, color will also, until from six to eight months the permanent junior points are complete. In England, where shows are held the year round, growth with its accompanying color development is often attained at an age of four months by a process of forced feeding. Permanent senior color, however, invariably follows the molt of second summer, and if the tan is of good strain foundation, in- tensity, with additional ticking results. To illustrate this point: A year since a young fancier friend sent a junior doe, then ten months old, to be mated to my imported buck. This doe was ex- ceedingly fine in physical characteristics, but quite light "yellow," considerably grey on the haunches, with very little but rather even ticking. On first seeing her I wondered if my darkest tan buck could sufficiently modify the light tan as to produce even moderate intensity; but on seeing her pedigree I knew just what to do. I knew, also, that with the following molt she would greatly improve. This spring (1911) she came back for a second mating, and I was surprised at the improved tinge, added tick- ing, and almost total disappearance of grey — one of the hand- some brood specimens it was ever my pleasure to see. The mat- ing proved beautifully successful, and I am proud to own one of her sons as a permanent fixture to my rabbitry. As already stated, procreative energy is strongest in the male. In the sire are supposed to lie hidden the qualities we wish to see brought out as physical characteristics in his offspring. These, in the Belgian, include color as well as contour of body points, so that whatever permanency to them is to be established must be sought for preferably in the sire line. At the same time I would not have you lose sight of what possibilities can obtain through the female as a medium for transmitting specie charac- teristics; for since Belgians are essentially a "made" creature, 71 both lines become important. The female, however, should be studied from her sire side rather than that of her dam. Many fanciers mate by selecting the male for color and the female for shape and size; others reverse this selection. It is an issue that each fancier can apply as a matter of experiment toward an objective point; but unless both sexes are chosen with due regard for all characteristics, a much larger degree of obvious disappointments will have to be constantly combated, with the risk of failure in the end. Ked, designated as rufous, is therefore what constitutes color for all those parts on the Belgian not specified by white and black — the latter entirely as ticking. This as already described, varies from bright to dark, and is qualified by its tinge as golden and chestnut, with tan as the basic element. The deeper down into the fur this latter extends, the more valuable the specimen in point of Fancy, and if extending to the skin altogether is evi- dence of extra quality. There is continually some trouble to secure correct color on the ears of a Belgian; that is, so these appendages harmonize on their superior surface with that of the ground color on the body. Often, also, the ears are too bare of fine hairs, almost naked, indeed, and then either too light or too brownish. They should be very finely covered with exceeding short, red hairs, a nice continuation out of the head covering as far up toward the black- tipped point as possible. Another failing that seems to be the result of fashion breed- ing, is whitish-tipped toes — not bars — ^but a soft cushion of pale hairs where the nails set in. This is not a very evident failing, but by oversight in mating is liable to become objectionably pro- nounced. Now and then one sees a specimen, usually a bright red chap, with white hairs mingled throughout its body coat. Concerning this they make a loud noise over in the Old Country, and Ambrose says it is a "very serious defect which should at all costs be avoided." They are willing to admit the "defect" as a result of in-breeding, yet advocate the latter with a tenacity bordering on the pugnacious. Best of all, use no specimens whose coats are distinctly marred by alien hairs of white; but at the same time do not throw aside otherwise good ones when such hairs are "far and between," for we must remember that alien white hairs are quite frequently the effect of injury to hair foll- icles from a scratch with the claw, a bump, or bite during a scrap. Furthermore, our friends "across the pond" are decidedly finicky about the effect of sunlight as a bleacher to the red. That persistent exposure to sun rays will tan is well understood, but that Belgians ought to be reared devoid of this invigorating in- 72 fluence on this account, is begging an issue; and that moderate exposure will be a detriment is also open to question. As an ex- periment I placed one of the bright red chaps in an open, un covered yard, with no protection other than several boxes against rain. The sun shines in this yard up to 2 P. M., yet this fellow shows no bleaching after a four month's test, with the temper- ature above 94 for a week at a time. However, as a matter of comfort I have my hutches roofed over for protection against both heat and rain, since wet is a whole lot more undesirable than heat or cold. A serious mistake often made that eventually proves detri- mental to color effect, is mating specimens before sufficiently matured, or before adult bloom is fully attained so as one may know what to expect. It is a physiological certainty, that while the reproductive sphere can be responsive to its functions at a comparatively early age, its fruit thus early produced can not attain that permanency in physiological characteristics which come from stamina out of a mature body. To come within all physical expectations, then, it is well to permit the reproductive organs as much time for organic functional perfection as the rest of the body; and remember, that once the reproductive sphere is drawn on for functional duty, virtually all life of the being concentrates in that direction, and at the expense of every fiber in it. Breeding For Shape Mating A careful study of the topic that relates to physical charac- teristics, along with the immediate preceding one about color points, will give practically all essentials that enter into breed- ing for both shape and color. Analyze the former intelligently, and apply the latter in connection so near as it can possibly be adapted. Use judgment and common sense with what science of breeding one has available. Adjust inferior points in one with superior ones in the other, and remember continually that from the sire emanate the blood line qualities for which we aim. I have no doubt about not a few fanciers taking issue with my views concerning my contention for superiority in the sire. I have not the least objection, and entirely appreciate that the nearest approach to absolute fact is derived from deductions out of our differences. Yet I must write as I believe, out of actual experience and considerable research; and is it not a fact that in Hares, as in all other stock breeding efforts, the sire has first place whenever there is inquiry after new blood lines ? But Ambrose says, "Success is, to my mind, much more read- ily secured through the does than through the sires. It is the mothers which perpetuate the main characteristics, and yet every 73 one appears to crave so much for sires." The universal law of propagation does not justify the idea advanced in this quotation, nor can it be substantiated unless by instances that are excep- tions to general rules. Which is not saying, however, that any sort of mongrel female will reproduce quality stock from a high class sire. Such an inference is not thought of in these remarks, for I am speaking of stock that is supposed thoroughbred on both sides. There is no question that our present fashionable Belgian Hares are largely the result of breeding from young animals. Such a method conduces to fineness in physical features, and has been a leading factor, no doubt, toward getting the prominence of an objectionable dewlap greatly decreased. I doubt not, though, but that all so far accomplished has been done at con- siderable expense of constitutional stamina; and whether we are justified to make the sacrifice merely for the sake of a less useful yet more beautiful animal, I leave for each one's individual analysis. A few years since I wrote one of our leading fanciers for his opinion about mating. This is his reply: "In mating for results I select the doe for shape and the buck for color. To eliminate defects I mate a doe strong in sections of shape to a buck strong in color. I do this with two pairs suited to each other, then select a buck of the one to mate with a doe of the other, and find my efforts have been rewarded." Evidently his ideas run parallel with those of Ambrose. Another fancier of equal prestige, and who has made it con- siderable of a specialty to breed for shape, lays all success to the merits of a prominent sire strain imported nearly twenty years since; and I will qualify this by quoting what Wilkins believes is a sire's part in the mating; "The buck plays such an important part in the characteristics of the young in all points, and particu- larly in color, style, shape, fineness of bone, and head properties, that it is absolutely necessary he must be good in these points." It is from differences like these quoted that we must acquire our experience; for after all opinions are weighed, there is but one sensible course — use the best available specimens "on both sides of the family." My personal experience has been entirely from well chosen sire lines, and I am quite satisfied with it. I am convinced it is the correct course. Under the topic "Physical Characteristics" will be seen described what is demanded as correct shape. Study that carefully, and frame the picture in a prominent section of the mind, then compare with the stock intended for mating and 74 pair up as close to all points of quality as possible, always with the side of preponderance on that of the male. It is often important to be as well informed with regard to defects, as with points of perfection. If anything, the former give more trouble than the latter. To one specially significant (I am not naming it a defect) I will call attention here — that of "choppy behind." This is an abrupt decline of the spinal bones from a line across the hips to the root of the tail, giving the animal, in many instances, almost an angular appearance. The nearer an unbroken arch is shown by the spinal curve from directly behind the shoulders to the root cf the tail, the better will all other outlines harmonize. I doubt if this failing is much a result of strain, as it is from small quarters and consequent lack of jumping exercises. Also avoid thick heads, lopped ears, and legs that stand distinctly in or out. I have often been asked as to the propriety of breeding from stock that carries the tail sidewise. When specimens of high quality are otherwise available I would not use such; but if a specimen of excellent points in all other respects, with just this one failing, I should not hesitate to use it — providing the anato- my of the tail is perfect. Physical defects are always apparent at birth, so that by careful examination of youngsters, all un- promising ones can be destroyed. What will turn out as a "twisted tail" can be clearly seen before the youngster is three days old. It is anatomical malformation due to only partially developed vertebrae, or the ligaments that hold them together. But if the miniature tail shows straight at birth, and subse- quently "floats" to one or the other side, it will be a condition of habit or overgrowth, rather than a defect. I don't like a "float- ing tail," but when there is no physical defect, an otherwise good specimen should not be condemned on this account alone. I have noticed that rapid growth, all the more when inten- sified by humid warm weather, is a contributing factor toward this failing. Likewise, inactivity enforced by small quarters. Above all, do not mate specimens not in their full vigor. Shape will be influenced by a diseased body. Study for the Standard of the Belgian Hare REMARKS — A Standard for judging Belgians should con- stitute sufficient verbiage to make every passage clear and free from misleading descriptives. The true virgin hare, to whatever country it may be "indi- genous" has never been domesticated, nor has it been hybridized 75 (so far as definitely known) by admixture of blood from any species of either wild or domestic rabbit. The attempt was made but failed, notwithstanding obvious claims. In other words, the hare — lepus timidus — has maintained its zoological identity quite as individual as the elephant, lion, or the tiger. The animal we breed under the name Belgian Hare is not at all of the species lepus — it is purely a species of rabbit bred to a high degree of perfection. Belgian (Belgium) breeders, 1 believe, claim priority to this species; but in that country nothing near approaching the type bred in England is produced, and Eng- lish fanciers can justly claim title to its present perfection. The Belgian Hare as reared in America (I mean the typical Belgian) is entirely the product of breeding stock imported from England, and it is the English species of it, so to say, that we must of necessity propagate, unless we hybridize away from the hare type and create an obvious one along rabbit lines. We may be able to, by reason of climate environment, and other possible influences, produce possibly somewhat of an American ideal though I see no advantage nor likely consum- mation in the attempt, nor would I advise it. SIZE — !The classic breeder clearly understands what size has to do with breeding the typical Belgian Hare. The uninformed has not, and unless size is made a part of type and intelligently standardized, it becomes objectionable in that it destroys the hare characteristic. Hare type stands for raciness, and this can not obtain when bulk is leading requirement; and there are not a few, I am sorry to say, who think this sacrifice should be made, and to whom I would suggest that if a large rabbit is desired for utility purposes make one by hybridizing the Belgian and Flem- ish, or Flemish and Silver. I believe it would be considerable advantage to type if the present weight of eight pounds were reduced a trifle, and a more specific classification made. The following weights, I think, would admit of all practical latitude for Standard results of breeding for racy type: Does above 10 months old 7 to 7V2 lbs. Does 8 to 10 months old 6 to 7 tbs. Bucks above 10 months old 6%to 7 lbs. Bucks 8 to 10 months old 6 to 6 Va lbs. All specimens under 10 months old to be considered as youngsters, and for judging are classed by months limit of age and rated by comparatives. 76 WHITE — There has been much discussion among foremost fanciers as to how much white — understood as white-bellied and grey haunches — should be tolerated to pass Standard criticism. It is a fact that there evists an innate propensity in all ani- mals of vari-colored fur coats, to change from dark to lighter shade incident to season or age. The reason is a physiological one, and should be considered when judging an animal of domes- tic breeding if this characteristic is apparent. To allow certain degrees of white and grey (with consideration of the above phe- nomena) appropriately placed without jeopardizing the standard body color, would appear admissable. In other words, a speci- men answering to every characteristic of type and color features should not be thrown out unless the white on belly and under jaw and grey on haunches exceeds a qualified per cent, into the other color (rufous). DEWLAP — This appendage is characteristic of the rabbit species, and NOT of the hare. Its presence is evidence of "breeding back" to an original rabbit strain. The nearer free (and absolutely, if possible) a Belgian Hare strain is kept of it by scientific breeding, the closer a pure hare type will it attain. But since the present Belgian is withal NOT a hare per se, its presence to a degree is justifiable, and should not debar a speci- men from qualifying in its class. [NOTE — The dewlap is not a deformity, nor a disqualifying characteristic, unless so abnormally large as to make it such, and clearly indicate the specimen to be entirely foreign to the Belgian Hare type. It so happens that many otherwise good specimens show this appendage in various degrees of development; but which was not apparent prior to maternity, or a certain age, which have reproduced others entirely free from it. These fac- tors should be considered when judging; but a male specimen with more than a mere evidence of dewlap, is to say the least, undesirable as a stock-getter, and should be disqualified if it is akin to that in a doe. The dewlap should not be confused with a not infrequent udder-like enlargement of the breast incident to maternity and which will disappear after the nursing period (unless the doe is again soon bred).] COLOR — ^Much discussion and sometimes very caustic, was had as to what constitutes rufous red. According to some auth- orities, it is a term that admits of a varied interpretation, and the dictionaries define it as identifying a compound color. The term rufous is from the latin rubro, meaning red. Spell- ed r-u-f-u-s, is the technical Latin form and is translated r-u-f- o-u-s, meaning a shade of red; but nowhere is any reason essayed 77 why it should identify as brownish-red or a "red tinjged toward brown," as dictionaries define the term. Breeders, according to their fancy, contend for "Golden chestnut" as the correct shade; some say "golden tan" as still more ideal, and others again say "chestnut tan" — so on pro and con, with no one exactly satisfied. Because of this contention, therefore, I make the term as clear as we at present understand it. Brownish-red is all that can be analyzed out of the term rufous. Of gold there is a light and dark shade according to per cent, of alloy present; but virgin gold is a characteristic tinge, shade or color, as you please, of specific identity. There is no tinge just like it. Of tan and chestnut there are degrees of shade; but it is that shade defined as brownish-red with which we have apparently to do and it is the degrees of intensity, there- fore, of this latter tinge from light to dark that must constitute one's judgment of what we understand as rufous. To formulate an ideal color effect in harmony with the conception of the term one will reason thus — ^take virgin gold as the standard for red, and the dark shade of a ripe chestnut for brown; tone down the density of the latter with the mellow tinge of the former, and you have rufous as it should show on the Belgian Hare. TYPE — This term has also caused much discussion, all I trow, due to either misconception or misunderstanding, or pos- sibly both, A small knowledge of Natural History, Biology and a bit of Comparative Anatomy, will harmonize definitives nicely so we can apply the word shape as being more commonly clear. In its compactness type virtually IS shape, though many will haggle otherwise; but what I wish to convey by both (if you please) is — the physical characteristics of the animal one ob- serves as a whole, or perhaps more desirably, an ideal whole. Literally it means "a stamp or mark"; that is, an impress, con- tour, outline, or physical conformity to a prescribed pattern — if the latter term is allowed. Color is a nominal characteristic; but is not essentially a part of type. The type that should "stamp" the Belgian Hare as ideal must portray raciness — slender, reachy body, thin, firm and lengthy limbs; narrow, racy-looking head; bright, bold, attentive eyes; eai's long, thin, almost transparent, and continually posed for attention — the animal altogether por- traying a qui vive entirely free from sluggishness, slouch and pudginess. Official Belgian Hare Standard Adopted by The National Pet Stock Association of America (Same as the English Standard) Points COLOR — Rich rufous red (not dark smudy color) carried well down sides and hind-quarters and as little white under-jaws as possible 20 SHAPE — Body long, thin, well tucked up at flank and well rigged up, back slightly arched, loins well rounded, not choppy; head rather lengthy, muscular chest, tail straight, not screwed; and altogether of racy appearance 20 TICKING — ^Rather wavy appearance and plentiful 10 EARS — About five inches long, thin and well laced on tips, and as far down the outside edge as possible. Good color inside and outside, and well set on 10 EYES — Hazel color, large, round, bright and bold 10 LEGS AND FEET— Fore feet and legs long, straight, slen- der, well-colored, and free from white bars; hindfeet well colored 10 WITHOUT DEWLAP ; 10 SIZE— iSeven to Eight pounds 5 CONDITION— Perfectly healthy, not fat, but flesh firm like a race-horse, and a good quality of fur 5 100 American Spotted Kahhit. Side Markings too small and Indistinct. Saddle too broken. Cheek spots Smaller and Round Table of Weights Below will be found a table of approximate weights of the "meat" varieties, attainable by proper feeding and care. While the weights here given are in some cases slightly in excess of actual Standard requirements, the breeder should strive to attain them, or even exceed them, and be satisfied with nothing less. 3 Mo. 4 Mo. 5 Mo. 6 Mo. Maturity Steel Grey Flemish American Spots , _ ^,, ^ .^,,^ .,-«. oVa tbs. SVz lbs. 9^/2 lbs. lOM; lbs. 15 lbs 7 tbs. 9 Ibs.lOVa lbs. 12 lbs. 17 tbs, 4V2 lbs. 5 lbs. 6 tbs. 7 tbs. 11 tbs, 51/2 lbs. 7 lbs. 8 lbs. 9 tbs. 13 lbs. I Solid Colored Giants ( Grey Flemish—Bucks' Grey Flemish— Does New Zealands Belgian Giants While the Belgian Hare is still classed as a meat, or utility rabbit, and at one time easily held a position as leader among the table or meat varieties, it has of late years been compelled to yield a place in the front ranks for the Giant varieties and the New Zealands. In the Belgian Hare, many of the qualities nec- essary in a utility rabbit have been sacrificed for the sake of fancy alone. To strive for a big carcass and tender meat in a Belgian Hare would be to forever bar it from winning in the show room. The hard racy appearance of the Belgian Hare can only be attained by somewhat scant feeding and plenty of hard exercise. For this reason no weights are given in above table for the Belgian. Most of the winning specimens in the show room weigh much less than that specified in the Standard. On the other hand, we have never seen or heard of a competent judge penalizing a Giant for overweight. The bigger, the better chance of winning — everything else considered — providing the weight is not obtained by an overly fat condition. 8Q Breeding, Building Up a Strain and Inbreeding By Dr. Roth Associated with the breeding of every species of live stock there is continually present this persistent bugbear that relates to in breeding — the theories for and against it. Inherent within one's self, no one seems to like it, yet in the regular order of breeding for specific points there appears no other way. We all are repugnant of the idea associated with mixing blood of relations, and when it comes to pairing father with daughter, brother with sister, or son with mother, we just natur- ally think it is dreadful. Regarding such matings in the human family, both Bible and Law has set a ban against it, yet it could not have been otherwise than from such relationship that every species of living thing emanated, if we are to believe the story of Creation, the Flood, of doddering old Lot, and other instances of sacred and profane history. But the subject is one th-at can be made a volume by itself so that I shall limit myself conservatively. One primary factor is, to what extent will psychological in- fluence bear on sex combination. With regard to the human species, science has evolved the knowledge of relationship be- tween mind and matter, and it is believed the former can mater- ially influence the latter, hence the social and legal ban against the mingling of related blood. In creatures of the animal kingdom psychology is supposed to have no part, and therefore inbreeding can not influence tissue formation. Mr. Noble says, "In the lower animals there is no mental strain to take into consideration," nor can there be any knowledge among them that the remotest blood-relationship exists. I have in a number of instances observed, in dogs, we"ll say, that a certain endowment of memory is apparent. After considerable association, sudden separation for some period (quite long, one would think), and subsequent coming together again, joyful recognition was manifest; but the matter of blood- relationship never seemed the least check to familiarity. Often, also, have I noted the gradual growth of a litter of kittens, baby 81 pigs, a pair of pigeons, half a dozen puppies, a young lamb, and a "nest" of Belgians, with a view to studying the length and per- manency of filial relationship and parental affection; but in every instance, so soon as the parent voluntarily "weaned" its young, there was apparent no further consideration for it than that of tolerated companionship, and often not that. In the light of these facts, Mr, Noble practically asks, "I am still wait- ing to know why I should not put together any pair of rabbits, that from outward appearance, are perfectly suitable in every respect, both physically and for producing exhibition points." Another breeder says, "I never consider blood-relationship at all, and do not hesitate to pair father with daughter, or brother with sister." In no country, perhaps, is inbreeding made a practice in the rearing of live stock as is applied to every species of it in Eng- land. It seems an obsession, and a sensible one, mayhap, over there. Rabbits, and Belgians in particular, have been so long inbred that Ambrose remarks concerning it, "We sometimes think we are using quite another strain, when in reality we find, on inquiry, that the stock is not far removed from those which we ourselves are depending upon for success." I do not wish to set myself down authoritatively as individ- ually advocating either cross-breeding, line-breeding, or in-breed- ing — rather as remarking of each impartially; but I am not averse to an acknowledgment, until better informed, that a care- ful study, associated with personal experiments, of the more recent points and developments relative to the breeding of live stock, has modified my views largely in harmony with those of Dr. Schroeder, Superintendent of the U. S. Bureau of Animal In- dustry, who says, "I am strongly inclined to believe that the evils attributed to inbreeding have been greatly over-rated." It is interesting to note what the U. S. Department of Agri- culture is doing through its several subsidiary divisions by way of experimenting along all principal lines that relate to mating of the different species of domestic animals and fowls. Special attention is given the Mendel theory, as laid down by the monk of this name, whose work consisted entirely, it appears, in exper- imenting with plants. Government experts believed that the law discovered by hybridizing vegetables, and flowers, would hold out with similar effect when applied to breeding live stock; and while not carried far in this direction as yet, indications point to successful results. Briefly, the Mendel theory is that of "inheritance of ances- tral traits," or plainly that of inbreeding. It embodies the prin- ciple of dominancy and recession in succeeding generations, and 82 implies, also, that each subsequent third generation in a lineal descent is characterized by predominant physical points of merit to determine in the ratio of three to one. That is, in a third gen- eration there appear three "dominants" to one "recessive," and it is by mating continually out of the former that eventual per- fection in thorough breeding is attained. I have neither time or space to remark at length on the numerous scientific points involved in line- and inbreeding, but it appears the only logical course for the attainment of specific characteristics. There are three forms of breeding as classified by the terms cross-breeding, line-breeding, and in-breeding. There are defined as follows: Cross-Breeding is the mating of two thoroughbred breeds of diverse species, as the Hackney and Trotting horse, Alderney and Holstein cow, Bulldog and Hound, Belgian and Flemish, or Dutch and Silver, etc. Subsequent matings of such offspring can be line- or in-bred. Line-Breeding is mating individual specimens of a breed when interruption in relationship exists by remoteness. In-Breeding is the mating of closely related ones of the same species. Line-breeding is illustrated by the subjoined pedigree dia- gram representing straight line descent for both sire and dam. For convenience I will name two pair by Sheriden mated to Bessie, and Roger to Queenie: Bessie III Sheriden II Bessie Queenie II Sheriden Bessie Sheriden III Roger II Roge? Sheriden IV Queenie Bessie 11 Rogei' Queenie Sheriden In-breeding needs no illustration, since it implies the mating of direct relations, as, father to daughter; son to mother; brother to sister; father to daughter by brother and sister; mother to son by daughter and brother, etc. 83 With regard to this latter form of breeding the U. S. Bureau of Animal Husbandry has bred brother and sister mated in se- quence order down to the 10th generation. Cavies being the example, and regarding which Dr. Schroeder writes me, "We have found nothing to indicate that the intensest form of in- breeding, carried on for nine or ten generations, is injurious. That for the preservations and perpetuation of especially fine points, and for the establishment of new breeds through the selection of naturally occurring mutations we are practically forced to resort to in-breeding." It was apparent that the 9th generation in this instance was represented by as good health, vigor and Standard points of merit, as the parent stock of the 1st; and, if anything, all points were finely accentuated. The experiment also appeared to show a pi'edominance of the "dominant" elements over the "recessive" in every 3rd sequence. Here is an example of absolute straight line descent without a vestige of foreign blood from the second mating on, yet no deterioration in a single element. One factor stands out pre-eminently above all others in its relation to breeding, no matter along what line the latter is practiced — that of health, and the possibilities from heredity. One should never mate specimens containing physical' defects, nor when affected with disease whose transmission is known to influence the offspring. I am not alluding to physical faults, nor to diseases that are curable by proper treatment. These will not transmit defects; but in the event of in-breeding, essentially close in-breeding, physical defects will likely be greatly accentuated, and constitutional disease all the more. To start breeding do not begin haphazard. Become ac- quainted beforehand with the salient principles involved. The indiscriminate mixing of blood lines without any knowl- edge of results, is like trying to steer a ship without a rudder. Don't pin faith on the mere assertion that like reproduces like, for unless one knows how Nature does this, she may shoot very wide of the mark. She has immutable laws by which she works, and reproduces defects just as likely as points of merit. She dabbles intimately with the phenomena of heredity. Study carefully the chapter that relates to physical charac- teristics, and apply its qualifications to both sire and dam, with their preponderance in favor of the former. This means all that is embodied in shape and color. But when purchasing never ask for a perfect specimen; for there is none. All domestic varieties of rabbits are what they are by virtue of being "made" so, hence 84 imperfections continuously crop out. So when buying from a re- liable fancier who is a real breeder, say to what you aspire rather than just what you want; for it is not always that what appears the most ideal specimens from a show Standard which will reproduce their kind in exact duplicate. The matter of gen- ealogy must never be forgotten, nor that of dominancy for the prevailing traits. Buy from a breeder who understands the science associated with the art of propagating a species,, then build up one's own strain. Building up a strain implies a start with specimens selected to represent certain qualities and then enlarging these by a process of development and elimination. That is, points of merit are to improve, and those of demerit bred out. I am presuming one is starting out as a novice with the idea of occupying a position in the Fancy. In such event, as said, buy from a reliable fancier breeder whose strain has the reputation of careful building up for a number of years. See that the stock is free from constitutional disease. Select specimens that repre- sent, at the present desire "golden tan," or yellow rufous, and those of the "chestnut tan" or real rufous. To maintain the former persistently requires the latter. Neither in itself, will breed true continuously without variation. The "golden tan" is liable to shade into lighter, while the "chestnut tan" has a ten- dency toward brown, with an excess of ticking; but by a careful adjustment of blood lines in the two, one can always expect desirable show specimens. The matter of mating related specimens I leave for study by the fancier after a careful perusal of the views brought out in the foregoing remarks. Black Giant. (Jood Color and Type Pedigree By Dr. Roth This is also a bugbear that is not a specially creditable one in the rabbit fancy. That it is discreditable is no fault of the topic, and that contemptible fraud is practiced by falsifying the lineage of a specimen does not prove that a record of blood lines represented by a given strain is not the right thing to maintain. I hold that, notwithstanding all the howl sent up by those who antagonize pedigree, it is the only course for the main- tenance of a true knowledge of one's stock. I have not yet ob- served one make a consistent argument against pedigree, and those who are noisiest in antagonism are the most earnest to know what they buy as represented in a reliable record of line- age. That a faker can fake is quite true; but not more so than that an honest breeder is honest. As a rule, a specimen carries inherently the qualities it possesses, and these are always palp- able to the informed observer who knows what they ought to be. By all means keep a record of every animal bred along thor- ough lines. Without a record of its lineage, what can be known regarding its possibilities for the future. Deductions are impos- sible without a recorded formula that leads to results. However, any discussion of this topic is superfluous for the reason that it is a universal rule among stock breeders of all varieties of thoroughbred domestic animals, is the sole guide to success, and if not maintained one had as well do a market business from the outset. A Very (; I lliinlish. Tlu' Chain Markings Should Extend Nearer to Base of Ear, and Body Markings are a Little Too Profuse 86 Feeding By Dr. Roth To be successful with rabbits depends perhaps more on prac- tical and common sense feeding than any other feature connected with their "bringing up." And on the other hand, I am safe in saying that more losses of stock are directly attributable to carelessness or pos- sibly overzealousness of it, than all other adversities. Indeed, the rabbit is by nature, so singularly free from disease ( and ver- min) in any form, that whatever ailments are encountered in various ways are nearly all traceable to some error in supplying food. Nearly every fancier and breeder of some import furnishes a circular or brochure in response to an application or sale of stock, and it is of considerable interest to read over the obvious instructions vouchsafed in it, particularly with regard to feeding. There are few directions in which all agree, and the variance is so great that a beginner must become seriously confused, with the chances of making mistakes very much in his favor. Then, too, what one reads in the several magazines, which devote space to rabbit topics is also of such wide range of opinion that one at first sight must almost conclude that no fixed rule for feeding exists, and that each manages tolerably near accord- ing to his own notions. And, is such a conclusion far wrong, I trow ? One breeder speaks of green things with utter fear — (almost dismay and uses only the littlest of little of it; another is more liberal, but conservative in quantity, while a third gives as much as the rabbits wish to eat, and all three get along without trouble, apparently. Some advise certain foods in the form of mash, any- way from soft to dry, others feed no mash at all. Then growing youngsters come in for special dieting up to a certain age, and again they come in just the same as the old ones. Thus opinions shift along, and the rabbits that don't die from over-attention may die for want of it, and the rest grow up. But, seriously, feeding should be managed along intelligent lines just as everything else — not overdone, nor underdone. Com- mon sense comes nearer being pleasing to the rabbits than too 87 much concern or not enough. No matter what the creature may be that one takes up for either fancy or utility purposes — from the larger animals to the smaller pets — to be successful with their "bringing up" the lirst essential is some knowledge of their instincts and physical characteristics. In the case of the rabbit, we know how it lives in the wild state, and that its domestication was a gradual advancement from that into its present, which should imply, that its food now cannot be greatly modified from what it finds when compelled to hunt for it — summer and winter. To know what this is should not be at all difficult; for a rabbit exists about exactly as a sheep would were the latter to seek food as an undomesticated animal. This holds good in the do- mestic state as well. P'eed the rabibts as one feeds sheep, and there can't be much room for error. One instinctive characteristic of the rabbits and which to me personally has been a guiding factor in the successful rearing of it, is that it prefers to feed at night. Unless annoyed, the rabbit in its wild state is quiet during the day, and the Belgian very much so if undisturbed, and sees no one. I make it a rule to have mine as little disturbed in daytime as possible, and in connection with this thought I will give my method of feeding and the feed I use. My rabbits are never restless until approach of evening "meal time" which is invariably at sunset. Then they are fed sufficient that I know the stomach is full in the morning, and the days of long nights, I give but one mess in 24 hours. They are glad to see me in the morning, but not frantic for food, and all they get is a swish of clover hay, or every third day something green. With regard to the latter I am very particular that no medicinal plants are fed. By instinct, a rabbit does not eat them in the wild, but a domestic rabbit by being sometimes long de- prived of greens, occasionally forgets himself. Dandelion is injurious and plantain should be fed only sparingly. Turnips and carrots are a good relish now and then; but hay-clover, alfalfa, or timothy is most I feed, both green and cured. Mash feed of any sort I don't use, nor milk at all. Pure water is the only liquid — twice a week in winter, and every day in summer. Once a week I mix a teaspoon tincture of iron in half a bucket of water — a tonic in a way, and keeps them slick. So far I had no sickness among my stock. (NOTE. Have received several requests for more definite information on use of tincture of iron. Dr. Roth evidently re- ferred to the ordinary ten or twelve quart pail. I usually pre- scribe ten drops to a quart, which would be a teaspoonful to six ouarts — about the same as evidently meant by above. C. R. D.) 88 My regular feed for the substantial evening mess consists of bran, 1% parts; ground oats, 1 part; whole oats, 1 part; whole wheat, V2 part; cracked corn, V2 part, and hominy ^ part, thor- oughly mixed. Young and old are fed alike, except as to quan- tity per animal. Of course, I expect many to differ with my method, and I shall not object. I have my reasons for feeding this way; my pets are happy, and healthy, and sleek as eels; and as said, were well since I have them. I might add that twice a week I mix a tablespoonful fine salt to four quarts of feed as an elementary essential. Some breeders keep a lump of rock-salt in the run — a serious mistake I think — for salt is a poison in an over indulgence, and causes bowel trouble. I do no exhibiting at shows, but such as do, usually devote some extra attention to feeding in the hope of developing extra sheen in the "coat," and a brisker appearance in general. In England, this is done to quite some degree, and not a few enterprising parties advertise "just the thing to make you win." It is the same in this country and as a precaution wish to say that all "condition" feeds and powders are injudicious extras prepared from business motives, and buyers should know that the various cereals and vegetables which constitute the food of grain eating animals contain all the nutrient nature intended they should have. Feeds containing condiments or medicinal ingredients should always be used with discretion, and all mixtures of this sort that ever came under my notice were merely a combination of the grains usually fed in- dividually in a way, with either cottonseed meal, gluten in dis- guised form, or sugar obviously prepared, added, with all of which the well informed breeder is likely acquainted beforehand. These mixtures cost more than regular feed, but are they worth more ? One important consequence should be persistently re- membered with regard to the use of prepared feeds — they usually contain stimulating material in some form — an unnatural effect upon flesh tissue — the re-action from which is always detrimental far in excess to the apparent benefit. The only safe line of correct feeding lies along the course laid out by the physiological laws in nature. A few paragraphs ahead I spoke of feeding no milk in any form to my stock. I don't like it, and found no occasion to do so. Many, however, do, and I do not wish to advise specially against the use of it as a food. I receive numerous inquiries along all lines of interest in breeding rabbits, and among them are many asking the advisability or propriety of using it for young and old stock. The great danger of feeding milk lies in chemical changes. That it is a good feed for young stock is true, but remember, young rabbits in the wild state don't have it after the 89 mother forsakes them. Milk as a diet for young animals was not intended for them longer than the parent supplies it. If one does feed it after weaning the brood, great care is required that it is perfectly "fresh," and only so much given as will be consumed at once. Let none sour in the dish, for sour milk is acid, and causes what in rabbits is known as "slobbers" — a very annoying trouble. Remember, too, it is an animal fluid, and not identical to water as a liquid. Ptomaine poisoning is possible from it. If mixed with dry feed of any sort, be sure that the dry feed contains nothing that will cause chemical changes in the milk. With these precautions in mind, it can safely be used as a feed. I have on several occasions noticed "directions" for feeding cabbage. Some eschew it as a poison for rabbits, while others feed it freely. It is not a poison, and rabbits are fond of it, especially as a green food in winter; but, like all things, don't overfeed, and be sure it was not treated with a paris-green solu- tion against worms in its early growth; nor previously frozen. Potatoes I never feed, nor do rabbits care for them. Boiled and crumpled in with dry feed, they should not be objectionable; but I consider them too rich in starch unless fed very sparingly. Sweet-potatoes are not as rich in starch as "white," and are somewhat allied to carrots. I feed them sparingly when I have no carrots or turnips. Indeed, all greens should be fed with caution against excess. In summer time when clover is plenty, I feed it daily in conjunction with cured hay — mornings — but it must be fresh cut. Wilted grass, for obvious reasons, is objec- tionable. Because greens are so plenty during the summer sea- son there is grave danger in overfeeding bunny with it, and I have observed that paralysis is one of the results by losing sev- eral valuable young on an occasion when I was called away pro- fessionally for three or four consecutive days, while the chil- dren enjoyed themselves "tending bunny while you was 'way, papa." Cleanliness is just as essential for the maintenance of healthy stock as regularity and quality of feeding. To render one's stock a pleasure and profit one must have no smaller measure of enthusiasm, which implies, that what is worth doing at all is worth doing well, as some moralist has it. No man can be a true fancier or successful breeder and make a name for himself unless he diffuses enthusiasm throughout his hobby. Every creature reared for man's pleasure and benefit must be made comfortable if its most perfect physical character- istics are to be expected. 90 Hutches By Dr. Roth This means a chest, box, case, or bin, in which rabbits are kept. The little creatures are not at all particular as to dimen- sions, style, or expense laid out to keep them; but with rabbits, as with the care of all other animals, if one desires to get on well with them it is essential that they are kept with regard to com- fort and cleanliness. It does not matter, either, whether reared for fancy or iftility purposes, comfort and cleanliness count as much for one as the other, because both are absolutely essential to bring up a beautiful animal as well as a useful one. The character of the hutches depends on the number of rab- bits one intends to rear, and say any number upwards of twenty, the most ideal method is to have them side by side, so built with wire netting that they can see each other. The matter of size is optional, and should be arranged in harmony with the number to be kept in one compartment. Some breeders build their hutches one tier above the other, no doubt as a matter of economy ^f or space. This method is objectionable for sanitary reasons, not- withstanding every effort to have the floor above unleakable tight. As said, with reference to feeding, so in this — keep as close to nature as one can possibly manage, and this implies, that a bare space on the ground is nearest right. Here again I will give my method of housing my pets — not essentially as an authority — but as information for the beginner. I keep a tier of four roomy hutches specially built for four breeding does. These I had made out of two piano boxes sawed in halves and set ends on, with each an outside run, making the room occupied by one doe 2%x3 in- side, and 3x4% outside, and 2 feet high along the lowest roof- line. The nest boxes are fastened on the outside along the back (entire length) a foot wide, and one and one-half high, with a sloping roof cover on hinges. Thus arranged, one can examine the nest without disturbing the doe, besides being convenient for cleaning. As a precaution against rats I built the floor one foot from the ground, and space partition and pen surrounding of one-inch mesh wire netting. The wood bottom floor is kept covered with 91 straw inside, and outside with sand and fine straw. Of course, my breeding hutches are quite roomy to be occupied by a single doe to each compartment, and smaller spaces by one foot every way would answer nearly as well; but if you have the room to spare, make bunny happy with space for needful exercise, espec- ially for the babies up to weaning time. It is a rule with me to breed at least two does a few days apart, so the young can be penned together after removal from the mother. My large runs for the growing youngsters are so far, four in number, 2% feet wide, and 18 long, with a "hiding" box at the far end. These have ground floors covered with 2 inch mesh wire netting — no, they don't dig through this — they try it once, that's all. Besides these, I keep ten extra hutches — two for individual bucks, four for emergency, and four smaller ones for hospital purposes. I also have a prison for unruly tyrants. All these occupy a ground space of 24x30 feet, which is entirely covered with a roof of tar-paper fastened on skeleton frame-work as a protection from the elements and hot sun in summer, of course, strict attention is given to thorough disinfection aside from the regular cleaning. For this I use the commercial (crude) carbolic acid, which is sprinkled along the sides and corners, inside and out. Droppings are cleaned out every alternate day in summer and once a week in cold and freezing weather. In short, the hutches must be kept clean, dry and disinfected, so I can go out any time, take up a bunny and handle it without soiling my hands or clothes. 92 Now, this is my way of doing things, and as previously noted, no sickness has as yet given me trouble of any sort. In England, the breeding of rabbits is recognized as a fancy, upwards of half a century, and in the past twenty years has re- ceived more scientific attention than in any other country, and while individual breeders do not perhaps conduct rabbitries on so large a scale as some in America, there are more devoted to it. In breeding the Belgian Hare special attention is given to the racy type so characteristic of the English wild hare, and to this end the hutches of this variety are built high, rather than wide and long. This is a commendable idea, and goes far toward obviating crouchiness, with the accompanying tendency to de- velop the objectionable dewlap. Various contrivances, also, are resorted to with a view to the development of ideal points such as placing a board cross-wise in the run a foot or so high for jumping exercise, which is supposed to give length of limb, span from shoulder to sacrum (across hips), well set ears, and tuck-up of flank. Feed boxes are built to compel a stretch of the neck in order to reach the food, another factor toward creating length. Such adjuncts are of course, only novelties toward an end; but are indeed essential for obviating objectionable tendencies and training out desirable ones. Then, too, many fanciful ideas can be carried out in constructing hutches which go far to give the breeding an appearance of taste in commendable harmony with the spirit implied by the term Fancy. Breeding on a large scale necessarily requires space com- mensurate with the number one's quarter is to contain, and in all 93 events must be so that the timid ones in a batch have toom to evade the tyrants ahways found among it. Absolute freedom for exercise is an essential in utility breeding as well as fancy. To breed on a small scale and with limited space individual specimens should, if at all possible, never be given less room than 4 feet long, iy2 wide and 2 to 'i high. This is, for such who desire only a few specimens for occasional table use, and while rearing them thus they will do well when sensibly attended — in open or closed quarters — they do best of all with as much room as one can spare. A convenient indoor hutch (Fig. 1) is one 6 by 2 feet, with a movable partition dividing off a third of the space at one end for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition has a smooth hole to permit passage of the animals from one part to the other. The front of the hutch has two doors, one of wire netting, the other of wood. The wooden door leads to the sleeping chamber and should close tightly. It is best to use metal hinges for the doors. The partition may slide in a groove between the doors or may be put in and taken out through one of the door openings. Outdoor hutches should have sloping roofs and overhanging eaves to protect them from rain. The screen door should have a sliding cover of wood or be fitted with a removable cloth cover. Small holes bored near the top of the hutch will afford all neces- sary ventilation. Movable hutches (Fig. 2) have some advantages. They may be carried outdoor in fine weather and taken back under shelter 94 at night during storms. Long, narrow cleats projecting at both ends of the hutch are all that are needed to convert the ordinary hutch into a movable one. Two forms of outdoor hutch some- times used are shown in Figures 3 and 4. That in figure 3 has no floor except a wire screen, permitting the rabbits to eat grass. In conclusion of this topic on hutches allow me to emphasize again the positive necessity of cleanliness and disinfection, whether the room occupied be large or small; for once sickness gets among a herd its eradication is often a serious trouble. An excellent disinfection, as well as a point of cleanliness, is to whitewash all board-work with a lime solution strongly impreg- nated with crude carbolic acid and if a handful of salt is added to the lime while slacking hot, its "sticking" and lasting quality is greatly enhanced. By following along the lines here explained, the housing of rabbits will be a matter of comfort and success, with every possible soUrce of disease eliminated. An Ideal Rabbitry By C. R. Deardorff There are many styles of rabbit houses, good, bad and in- ilifTerent. Some have been built with the sole idea of keeping "bunny" warm; some with the idea of getting the largest pos- sible number in the smallest possible space without any regard to ventilation; some to the other extreme of a large and expen- sive house with few hutches; and some with no definite idea at all. These are all radically wrong. The rabbit does not need, nor does it succeed in a warm building. All it needs is protec- tion from drafts, storms, excessive heat and strong sunlight. Given these, together with correct sanitation and feeding meth- ods, and we need not give a thought to any cold less severe than 20 degrees below zero. It is true that warmth is necessary to obtain great earage in the Lops, and great size in the Giants, but if warmth is obtained at the expense of ventilation and pure air — then earage and size is obtained at the expense of vitality. It has been demonstrated and proven that the "open front" style is the only really successful method of housing. In this style, the rear end and both sides are boarded up tight, and the front mostly or entirely open, being covered only with close mesh wire netting to keep out rats, mice, birds, etc. Burlap or muslin covered frames are provided to close the openings in stormy or extremely cold weather. These curtains, by reducing the rapid circulation of the air, tend to retain the warmth generated by the animals' bodies, and at the same time permit the escape of impure air through the pores of the fabric. Many are building long houses with tiers of hutches run- ning lengthwise of the building, at the rear, and a long aisle running entire length of building in front of hutches. This is much better than a closed house, but has some serious objections. In the first place, it is expensive. Did you ever stop to figure that a long house takes much more material than a square one of the same capacity ? Another objection is that the long house is subject to bad drafts, unless partitions are built every 12 or 14 feet. To overcome these objections, and at the same time retain all the advantages of the "open front" house, I have devised and offer in this chapter, plans and specifications of my Ideal Rabbitry. 96 Bill of Materia: 2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 14 ft. for end sills. 2 pieces, 2 in. by 6 in. by 16 ft. for side sills. 13 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for studding. 4 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. for plates. 7 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 16 ft. for rafters. 3 pieces, 2 in. by 4 in. by 14 ft. for uprights. 315 sq. ft. roof sheathing. 450 sq. ft. drop sldii.g, 14 ft. and 16 ft. lengths. 3 rolls roofing. 14 feet, 42 inch poultry netting, 1 inch mesh, for front. 20 lineal feet IVi in. by 4 in. for door frame. 1 set: — lock, latch and hinges. For hutches: — • 420 sq. ft. flooring, 12 ft. lengths. 350 lineal feet Ix'A, for door frames. 115 lineal feet V2 ii-ch mesh wire, 18 inches wide, for doors. 12 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 12 ft. face strips to hang doors on. 3 pieces 1 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. for bottom of partitions under hay racks. 4 pieces 1 in. by 8 in. by 14 ft. uprights in front of hay racks. 9 pieces 2 in. by 4 in. by 10 ft. hutch floor joists. 97 feet, two foot poultry netting, one inch mesh, for hay racks and long partition in middle group of hutches. 24 pair 3 inch T hinges. Sills may be laid on cement blocks, better yet built on solid concrete foundation. Floor may be of dirt, cinders or concrete. In either case build it up 4 to 6 inches inside of foundation to make it dry. No provision on above bill for foundation on floor. If wood floor is desired, add for floor joists and flooring, but such floors not advised on account of affording harbor for rats. Use 16D wire spikes to nail studding, plates, etc., 7D wire nails foi siding, sheathing, hutch floors, facing strips, etc. — door hinges, latch and lock to suit your fancy. Cornice, frieze, corner boards, outside casing, etc., have not been provided for, as they are not absolutely necessary, but are very desirable if it can be afforded, to make an attractive out- side appearance. FIooi Plans of Ideal Rabbitry Dimensions, 14 feet by 16 feet; Shed roof; Rear wall, 6 feet high, front wall 7I/2 feet high; Each hutch, 2¥2 feet by 5V2 feet floor space, and 22 inches high; Three tiers of hutches — total number, 24. One front corner for feed bins, the other for baled or loose hay; If loose hay, put in an upright to keep hay in 97 place. Cover top hutches, and space above, towai*d front ends, may be used to store extra feed and water dishes, etc. Make a conditioning', or work table, with drop legs, under either, or both, screened openings — each about 16 inches wide by 30 inches long. Studding is to be set to suit dimensions of hutches, note location as shown on Fig. 1. In cutting studding, observe that the pieces as billed are 14 ft. long — and that one piece cut will make one rear and one front studding. Double corner studding, also on each side of door. / Ifi {e.e-'t ScTreene^ Opening fiq. 1 Plates are to be laid double on front and rear walls — none needed on sides. Rafters spaced 32 in. center to center. Uprights are to be cut as follows: Four of them to reach from floor to top of top hutch, and placed one at each front out- side corner of hutches to support hutches. The other two are to be cut to reach from floor to bottom edge of middle rafter to help support roof and hutches of middle group. In building the hutches, hutch floor joist should be 2^ feet long for side tiers, and 5 feet long for middle group of hutches. 98 Spike to studding and uprights, excepting middle joist can be spiked only on studding end on outside tiers, and to middle up- right in middle group. The outside end of these middle joists are to be supported by face strips and one by eight uprights as shown in Fig. 2. Run floor lengthwise and nail to joist with groove edge to- ward front. Plane front board to a square edge and let it pro- ject over and come flush with front top edge of face strip. To get the proper slope to floor for drainage, rip a strip from the top edge on each end of the 5 foot joist, 1% inches wide at the end to a point at the middle. The 2% foot joist may be ripped the same way, or simply lower the outer end 1% inches. Removable nest boxes should be provided. A good one is a box 18 in. long, 12 in. wide and 12 in. high, with a removable cover. The top of this box provides a good place for the mother ^TT^ of f/ooy-S=>'--^^- JSottOm T'txytilian. Qo 12a !«■> —